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diff --git a/17164.txt b/17164.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bfbcfd8 --- /dev/null +++ b/17164.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9151 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa +Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1, by James Richardson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1 + Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government + +Author: James Richardson + +Release Date: November 27, 2005 [EBook #17164] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF A MISSION *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + + +[Transcriber's note: +This text contains characters with macrons and breve accents. For this +Latin-1 version, they have been transcribed using [=x] for characters +with macrons, and [)x] for breve accents, where x is the accented +character. + +Some inconsistencies in the dates have been corrected in chapters XV and +XVI: +September 29th has been changed to August 29th, October 1st to September +1st, and October 4th to September 4th.] + + + + + +NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA +PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51, + +UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT. + + +BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON, +AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA." + + +IN TWO VOLUMES. + +VOL. I. + +LONDON: +CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY. + +MDCCCLIII. + +LONDON: +Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The task of the Editor of these volumes has been principally one of +arrangement and compression. The late lamented Mr. James Richardson left +behind him a copious journal, comprised in eight small but +closely-written volumes, besides a vast heap of despatches and scattered +memoranda; and, at first sight, it seemed to me that it would be +necessary to melt the whole down into a narrative in the third person. +On attentively studying the materials before me, however, I perceived +that Mr. Richardson had written in most places with a view to +publication; and that, had he lived, he would soon have brought what, on +a cursory examination, appeared a mere chaotic mass, into a shape that +would have accorded with his own idea of a book of travels. Such being +the case, I thought it best--in order to leave the stamp of authenticity +on this singular record of enterprise--to do little more than the author +would himself have done. In the form of a diary, therefore--written +sometimes with Oriental _naivete_--the reader will here find what may be +called the domestic history of one of the most successful expeditions +undertaken for the exploration of Central Africa. I believe it would +have been possible to get up a work of more temporary interest from the +same materials; but this could only have been done by sacrificing +truthfulness of detail. In the present form, Mr. Richardson's journal +will always remain as an authority on the geography and present +condition of a large portion of the Saharan desert, hitherto unvisited, +at any rate undescribed. + +As will be seen, the Mission was accompanied by two German gentlemen, +Drs. Barth and Overweg--the former, of whom I had the pleasure of +meeting in Egypt, after his enterprising ride along the coast of Libya. +They are still in Central Africa, pushing their excursions on all sides, +from Bornou into unknown tracts; and the accounts they may publish on +their return will be anxiously looked for. The great traverse of the +Saharan desert, however, with all its vicissitudes and dangers, the +physical aspect of that wonderful region, and the manners of the various +tribes that inhabit it, will, in the present volume, be found to be +fully described--not, it is true, with much attempt at literary +ornament, but in the vivid though simple language in which a man sets +down impressions which he has just received. I have endeavoured to +remove all the faults which may be supposed to have arisen from haste or +carelessness, and have necessarily re-written several passages, and +passed a correcting pen over the whole manuscript. But I think I may say +with confidence, that there is no observation or statement in the +following pages which cannot be justified by a reference to the original +journals and scattered memoranda. + +To me this simple record of daily occurrences seems highly interesting. +It divides itself, naturally, into a succession of parts of unequal +importance. First comes an account of the journey to Mourzuk, the +capital of Fezzan, containing the traverse of the frightful Hamadah or +plateau which separates that province from the regency of Tripoli. Then +we have a residence at Mourzuk itself, Mr. Richardson being obliged to +wait the arrival from Ghat of an escort of Tuarick chieftains, with whom +he had partly made acquaintance during a former trip in the desert. This +escort appeared after some delay; and the Mission proceeded across the +Fezzan plains to the independent state of Ghat, through a very wild and +picturesque country. At this point began, if not the most arduous, at +any rate the most dangerous, and at the same time the most novel, part +of the journey. Mr. Richardson had undertaken, on his way to Soudan +Proper (his first destination), to pass by the hitherto unexplored +kingdom of Aheer or Asben, situated towards the southern limits of the +Sahara. The march of the Mission across the deserts that lie between +Ghat and that territory was rendered exciting by continual reports of +danger from pursuing freebooters of the Haghar and Azgher tribes; but +the enemy were outstripped, and no actual attack took place until the +first inhabited districts of Aheer were reached. Here some lawless +tribes levied black-mail, on the caravan, which was then permitted to +proceed, though in doubt and alarm, until it arrived under the +long-expected protection of Sheikh En-Noor, one of the great chiefs of +the Kailouee tribes, at his town, or rather encampment, of Tintalous. +Mr. Richardson's residence at this place was long and tedious. He +suffered, besides, from the extortionate disposition of the Sheikh or +Sultan, who, however, after considerable exactions, became his friend. +This Saharan character is brought out by a succession of amusing +touches. But our traveller was impatient to proceed, and seems to have +hailed with delight the announcement that the great Salt-Caravan, which +annually transports the necessary condiment from Bilma _via_ Aheer to +the south, was about to start, and that the Sheikh and the Christians +were to accompany it. Some further disappointments occurred, but at +length the Mission proceeded to Damerghou, whence Drs. Barth and Overweg +went, one to Maradee and the other to Kanou, whilst Mr. Richardson +proceeded alone to Zinder, situated in the province of Damagram. Here he +was well received by the Sarkee, or Governor, and he dilates with +well-founded exultation on his escape from the insolent and rapacious +Tuaricks. Sad sights, however, connected with the slave-trade, checked +his delight. During his stay the Sarkee went out in person to hunt down +the subjects of his own sovereign, that he might pay his debts by +selling them into captivity. After another considerable delay Mr. +Richardson was enabled to start once more, and being obliged to change +his original plan proceeded to Kuka, the capital of Bornou, by way of +Minyo. Shortly after leaving Gurai, the chief town of that province, the +unfortunate traveller found his strength to be gradually giving way. He +had already previously complained of the heat and fatigue, but did not +seem to have felt any great alarm. Now, however, the climate seems to +have told upon him with sudden and fatal violence. His last moments are +described in a letter from his fellow-traveller, Dr. Barth, who hastened +to the spot with laudable energy as soon as he heard of the melancholy +catastrophe that had taken place. Mr. Richardson died at Ungurutua, +about six days' journey from Kuka, the capital of Bornou, on the 4th of +March, 1851, eleven months after his departure from Tripoli. + +I have observed that the Mission, the first transactions of which are +described in these volumes, is entitled to be called successful. +Although the original promoter and director died just as he was on the +point of reaching the termination of his journey, his enterprising +companions, Drs. Barth and Overweg, seem to have carried on and +developed admirably the plan at first laid down. If they be spared to +return to Europe they will bring home, no doubt, geographical +information so valuable that all Mr. Richardson's predictions will be +found to be amply fulfilled. As it is, however, the object of our +practical fellow-countryman may be said to have been accomplished. He +did not lay so much stress on the accurate determination of latitude and +longitude, of the heights of mountains and the courses of valleys, as on +matters that come more nearly home to human sympathies. The abolition of +the system of slavery--many affecting illustrations of which will be +found in these volumes--seems to have engaged the chief of his +attention. It was with this benevolent object that he originally turned +his attention to Africa; and he had become convinced that the best means +of effecting it was to encourage legitimate traffic between Europe and +the great nurseries of slaves. Among other things, he wished to show the +possibility of entering into treaties of amity and commerce with the +most important states of Central Africa; and although these treaties may +not turn out to be of great immediate utility, it is always worth while +that future explorers should know, that on the borders of Lake Tchad +there is a power which professes to be united with England in formal +ties of friendship, and that the Sultan of Bornou has never shown any +disposition to break his promises or secede from his engagements. As to +the question, whether legitimate commerce can advantageously be carried +on across the Sahara, and substituted for the frightful traffic in human +beings, I do not consider that it is as yet decided; but Mr. +Richardson's researches will throw great light on this interesting +subject. + +I do not intend here to attempt an account of the services rendered by +Mr. Richardson to the sciences of geography and ethnography during his +useful career. At some future period, no doubt, this task will be +performed; and it will not fail to be added, that he was always impelled +by a higher motive than the mere satisfaction of curiosity or ambition. +A profound conviction that something might be done towards ameliorating +the condition of the African nations, if we were only better acquainted +with them, seems to have early possessed him. This it was that sustained +and guided his footsteps; and all who knew him unite in testifying that +he concealed beneath a pleasant, cheerful exterior, the character of a +Christian gentleman, and an ardent crusader against the worst form of +oppression which has ever been put in practice. The hope that the public +will unite in this opinion must certainly assist in consoling his widow +for the loss which she has sustained. Mrs. Richardson is alluded to in +the narrative throughout. It is necessary, therefore, to say, that that +lady remained in Tripoli until the news of her bereavement reached her, +and that she then returned to England to promote the erection of this +best monument to her husband's memory. + +I have now only to add an account written by Dr. Barth (dated April 3, +1851) of the death of Mr. Richardson, in a letter addressed to Mr. +Crowe, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul-General at Tripoli. The German +traveller, as will be seen in the second volume of this work, had +separated from his English companions on the plains of Damerghou, and +proceeded to prosecute other researches, the results of which will be +looked for with great interest:-- + + "It was on the 25th of March," he says, "that I heard + accidentally from a Shereef, whom I met on the road, the sad + news that my companion had died, about twenty days before, + in a place called Ungurutua, six days' journey before + reaching Kuka, when I hurried on as fast as my horse would + allow in order to secure his papers and effects from being + lost or destroyed. + + "I now shall send you a short account of Mr. Richardson's + death, as far as I was able to make out the circumstances + from his servant. Mr. Richardson is said to have left Zinder + in the best health, though it is probable that he felt + already very weak while he was there: for, according to the + man whom he hired in Zinder as his dragoman, he had, while + there, a dream that a bird came down from the sky, and when + sitting on the branch of a tree, the branch broke off and + the bird fell down to the earth. Mr. Richardson being very + much affected by this dream, went to a man who from a huge + book explains to the people their dreams. On the man's + telling him that his dream meant death, he seems really to + have anticipated that he would not reach the principal + object of his journey. But, nevertheless, he seemed to be + quite well, mounting even the horse which the Governor of + Zinder had made him a present of, as far as Minyo, when he + begged the Governor to give him a camel, which he mounted + thenceforward. He felt notoriously ill in Kadalebria, eleven + or twelve days' journey from here (Kuka); and he is said by + his servant to have taken different kinds of medicines, one + after the other: from which you may conclude that he did not + know himself what was his illness. Mr. Richardson never + could bear the sun, and the sun being very powerful at this + time of the year, it must have affected him very much. I + think this to be the chief reason of his death; at least, he + seems not to have had a regular fever. He was happy to reach + the large town of Rangarvia after a journey of three short + days, and had the intention of returning from here directly + to Tripoli, without touching at Kuka and the low, hot plain + of Bornou, which he was affrightened of very much. He + offered two hundred mahboubs for a guide to conduct him + directly to the road to Bilma; but there being no road from + here, and no guide having been found, it was necessary first + to go to Kuka. + + "Mr. Richardson, therefore, seems to have taken strong + medicines; in consequence of which, in the evening of the + third day of their halt at Rangarvia, after having taken a + walk through the town, he felt well enough to fix his outset + for the next morning. But this day being rather a long one, + and the sun being very powerful, he became very tired and + unwell; and the more so as, notwithstanding his illness, he + had not left off drinking milk, even on his camel, mixing + some brandy with it. Having recovered a little during the + night, he moved on the next morning, but ordered a halt + about noon, on account of his weakness. Having started again + at sunset, they encamped at midnight. The next day, after a + short journey, they reached the Wady Mettaka. Mr. Richardson + seemed to feel much better, and drank milk and a little + jura, besides rice. From this place, on the last day of + Kebia-el-awel, the caravan, after but a two-hours' march, + reached the village called Ungurutua, when Mr. Richardson + soon felt so weak that he anticipated his death; and leaving + the hut (where he was established) for his tent, told his + dragoman, Mahommed Bu Saad, that he would die. Being + consoled by him that his illness was of no consequence, he + assured him several times that he had no strength at all; + and indeed his pulse ceased almost to beat. He began, then, + to rub his feet with vinegar, and applied the same several + times to his head and shoulders. After which, in the absence + of his servants, he poured water also over himself; so that, + when they returned after a few moments, they found him quite + wet. To counteract the bad effect of this proceeding, they + began to rub him with a little oil. In the evening he took a + little food, and tried to sleep; but notwithstanding that he + seems to have taken something to bring on sleep, he threw + himself restless from one side to the other, calling his + wife several times by her name. After having walked out of + his tent with the assistance of his servant, he ordered tea, + and remained restless on his bed. When it was past midnight, + his old dragoman, Yusuf Moknee, who watched in his tent, + made some coffee, in order to keep himself awake; upon which + Mr. Richardson demanded a cup of coffee for himself; but his + hand being so weak that he could scarcely raise the cup, he + said to Moknee: '_Tergamento Ufa_,'--'Your office as + dragoman is finished;' and repeated several times, with a + broken voice, '_Forza mafishe, forza mafishe le-koul_,'--'I + have no strength, I have no strength, I tell you,' at the + same time laying Mahommed's hand on his shoulder. Feeling + death approaching, he got up in a sitting posture, being + supported by Mahommed, and soon expired, after three times + deep breathing. He was entirely worn out, and died quietly, + about two after midnight, Tuesday, 4th March + (Jumed-el-awel), without the least struggle. His servant + then called into the tent the other people and the Kashalla, + or officer of the Sheikh, who had come along with them from + Zinder, in order to be witness, and while wrapping the body + of the deceased in three shirts which they had cut up, + ordered the people of the village to dig a grave for him. + They then shut up whatever of the luggage of Mr. Richardson + was not locked up, and prepared everything for their journey + to Kuka. Early in the morning they lifted the body, wrapped + up as it was, upon Mr. Richardson's carpet, and carried him + to his grave, which had been dug in the shade of a large + gaw, close to the village, to the depth of four feet. Having + then covered his head and breast with a very large tabah, so + as to protect it from every side, they covered the body with + earth, and had the grave well secured. I have spoken several + times with Haj Beshir that it might be well taken care of, + and I am sure the grave of the traveller, who sacrificed his + life for his great object, will be respected. I send you + with this first kafila all Mr. Richardson's papers and his + journal, which is kept till the 21st February, consisting of + six reams, and his vocabularies, not finished, four reams, + with Yusuf's journal, as well as all his other papers or + letters. I have taken out only the letters of recommendation + of the Mission and the papers concerning the treaty to be + made, as well as a letter from Lousou, one of the Tuaricks, + and another from Ibrahim, the Governor of Zinder, to the + Queen, which I shall enclose in my report to Government. I + send you, besides, an authentic list of all the objects + found in Mr. Richardson's possession, as it has been made up + on the things being deposited with Haj Beshir. + + "I beg you to assure Mrs. Richardson of my most sincere + sympathy, and that I hope she will find a good deal of + consolation in the rich journal of the deceased." + +I have given the above narrative in the words of Dr. Barth; but must +direct the reader's attention to vol. ii. p. 261, where he will find +that the whole account of the prophetic dream is distorted by the very +unauthentic medium of Oriental report. There is no reason to suppose +that Mr. Richardson was unusually affected by this circumstance, +although any dismal suggestion is likely to disturb a person of +sensibility placed in a dangerous position. The remaining facts, as they +seem confirmed by concurrent testimony, may be taken as a sufficiently +accurate account of the death of this lamented traveller. + +From the statements which have from time to time appeared in the press, +the public are already aware, that the presents and the treaty intended +for the Sheikh of Bornou were duly presented and accepted, and that the +boat which caused Mr. Richardson so much anxiety on the road was +ultimately launched, as he desired, on lake Tchad, and employed in the +survey of that celebrated piece of water. It is unnecessary here to +notice the results of this survey, or of the explorations subsequently +undertaken by Messrs. Barth and Overweg. These gentlemen, it is to be +hoped, will be more fortunate than their colleague, and return to give +in person an account of their exertions and discoveries. + +I shall conclude by expressing my hope that Mr. Richardson's reputation +will not suffer from the way in which I have superintended the +publication of his remains, and my regret that I am not able to do +justice to the great services which he has rendered to philology by his +copious collections of vocabularies of the languages, both of the Sahara +and of the various kingdoms of Central Africa. + +BAYLE ST. JOHN, + +_London, January 1853._ + +P.S. It may be as well to mention that the extensive collections of +vocabularies made by Mr. Richardson are now preserved at the Foreign +Office, together with specimens of translations from the Scriptures. All +these collections are extremely valuable, but especially those of the +Bornou language, which were much wanted. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Origin of the Missions--Its Objects and Plan--Preparations--Arrival at +Tripoli--Prussian Colleagues--Necessary Delay--The Boat for Lake +Tchad--Wind-bound--Anxieties at Tripoli--Correspondence with Mourzuk and +Ghat--Circular Letter of Izhet Pasha--Composition of the Caravan--An +aristocratic Interpreter--A Mohammedan Toper--The Chaouches--Free Blacks +returning to their Countries--Marabout--Camel-drivers--Rate of Desert +travelling--Trade of Tripoli with the Interior--Slavery--Caravans from +Central Africa--Details on Commerce--Promotion of legitimate +Traffic--Spread of Civilisation. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Start from the Masheeah--Painful Parting--Chaouch's Tent--A Family +Quarrel--Wady Majeeneen--A Rainy Day--Moknee's Wives--Two mad +Fellows--Great Ascent of Gharian--Tedious Day's Work--The +Castle--View over the Country--Garrison--Troglodytes--Turkish +Tax-gathering--Quarrelsome Servants--Proceed over the lofty +Plain--Underground Villages--Kaleebah--The Batoum--Geology--A Slave +Caravan--Cheerful Blacks--Rows--Oasis of Mizdah--Double +Village--Intestine Discords--Interview with the Sheikh Omer--A Pocket +Province--A Dream of Good Omen--Quarrels on Quarrels--Character of +Fezzanees--A Leopard abroad. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Leave Mizdah--Gloomy Country--Matrimonial Squabbles in the +Caravan--"Playing at Powder"--Desert Geology--A Roman Mausoleum--Sport--A +Bully tamed--Fatiguing March--Wady Taghijah--Our old Friend the +Ethel-Tree--The Waled Bou Seif--Independent Arabs--A splendid +Mausoleum--One of the Nagahs foals--Division of a Goat--March over a +monotonous Country--Valley of Amjam--Two new Trees--Saluting the New +Moon--Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah--Wady Tubooneeah--Travelling +Flies--The Desert Hour--A secluded Oasis--Buying Barley--Ghareeah--Roman +Remains--Oasian Cultivation--Taxation--Sand-Pillar--Arrangements for +crossing the Hamadah--An _Emeute_ in the Caravan--Are compelled to +discharge the quarrelsome Ali. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Commence crossing the Hamadah--Last Pillar of the Romans--Travelling in +the Desert--Rapid March--Merry Blacks--Dawn--Temperature--Ali +returns--Day-travelling--Night-feelings--Animals--Graves of +Children--Mirage--Extent of the Plateau--It breaks up--Valley of +El-Hasee--Farewell to the Hamadah--Arduous Journey--The +Camel-drivers--New Country--Moral and religious Disquisitions--The +Chaouches--Reach Edree--Abd-el-Galeel--Description of Edree--Subterranean +Dwellings--Playing at Powder--The Kaid--Arabic Literature--Desertion of +the Zintanah--Leave Edree--Sandy Desert--Bou Keta the Camel-driver--Wady +El-Makmak--The Lizard--Reach Wady Takadafah--Sand--Another _Embroglio_. + + +CHAPTER V. + +More sandy Desert--Fatiguing March--Water and +Herbage--Water-drinking--Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk--Hot +Wind--Arrival in El-Wady--Tuaricks--Laghareefah--Fezzanees--The Chaouches +astray--The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady--Description of the Oasis--Tempest--Native +Huts--Official Visits--Desert News--Camel-drivers--Ruins of Azerna--Move +on--The Kaid--Modest Requests--Ladies of the Wady--Leave the Oasis--Vast +Plain--Instinct of the Camel--Reach Agar--Reception--Precede the +Caravan--Reach Mourzuk--Mr. Gagliuffi--Honours paid to the Mission--Acting +Pasha--Climate--Route from Tripoli--Its Division into Zones--Rain in the +Desert. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +The Oasis of Fezzan--Population--Ten Districts--Their Denomination and +Condition--Sockna--Honn--Worm of the Natron Lakes--Zoueelah--Mixed +Race--Improvements in Mourzuk--Heavy Ottoman Yoke--Results of the +Census--Amount of Revenue--Military Force--Arab Cavaliers--Barracks--Method +of Recruiting--Turkish System superior to French--Razzias--Population of +Mourzuk--Annual Market--Articles of Traffic--Acting-Governor and his +Coadjutors--Story of a faithless Woman--Transit Duties in Fezzan--Slave +Trade--Sulphur in the Syrtis--Proposed Colony from Malta. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DIARY OF A RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. + +Sickness of Gagliuffi--Baggage left at Mizdah--Runthar Aga--The +Hospital--Various Visits--Arrival of the New Governor--Animated +Scene--Correspondence--Visit Mustapha Agha--Bragging Sheikh Boro--Tibboos +of Tibesty--Curious Country--Presents to Turkish Functionaries--A +Woman divorced--Haj Lameen--Presents expected--Brilliant +Atmosphere--Water-Melons--The Gardens--Winnowing Grain--Houses +of Salt Mud--Nymphs of the Gardens--Wells--Presents to +Functionaries--Phrenology--Queen's Birthday--Walks in the Orchards and +Gardens--Corn-threshing--Kingdom of Aheer--Ass's Head--A Wedding--A +Funeral--Great Dinner--Tibboos--Prepare to depart--The Pilgrim Caravan; +its Privileges--Tuat and the French--Departure of Germans--Wife of +Es-Sfaxee--An Arab Saying--Letters--Disease--Arrival of Escort--Eastern +Consulates--Business--Hateetah--The Son of Shafou--Poor Sheikhs--Hard +Bargain. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Wars in the Interior--Anticipated Disputes--Mr. Boro of Aghadez--Our +Treatment at Mourzuk--Mustapha Bey--Start for Ghat--Row with the +Escort--Fine Weather--Leave Tesaoua--Sharaba--Travelling in the +Heat--Hateetah and the Germans--The Camels--Snakes--Journey +continued--Nature of the Country--Complete Desert--Rain--Overtake +the Caravan--Interview with Boro--Pool of Ailouah--The +Tanelkums--Halt--Birds--Bir Engleez--Wind in the Desert--Begging +Escort--Brilliant Heavens--News from Ghat--The Pilgrims +again--Bas-relief of Talazaghe--Moved over the +Desert--Mountains--Extraordinary Pass--Central Table-land of Fezzan. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Plain of Taeeta--Fezzan Boundary--Fossils--Tuarick Behaviour--Valley of +Tabea--Observations--Fasting--Tuarick Habits--Scorpions and +Locusts--Visitors--Heat--Roads--Hot Wind--Pass of Abulaghlagh--The +Palace of Demons--Wheat hid in the Desert--Land of Demons--Kasar +Janoon--A dear Camel--Visit to the Kasar--Perilous Adventure of Dr. +Barth. + + +CHAPTER X. + +Approach Ghat--Description of the Town--The Oasis--Reminiscences of a +former Visit--Azgher Tuaricks--The Governor--Political Authority--The +Sheikhs--Protection of Strangers--The Litham--Business--Reception--Meetings +of Sheikhs--Disputes--Tax on liberated Slaves--Extortion practised on +us--Discussion on the Treaty--Scramble for Presents--Haj Ahmed +disinterested--Hateetah plays double--More Presents and further +Annoyances--Mahommed Kafa--Escort of Kailouees--A Visit from Ouweek and +the Bandit of Ghadamez--Observations on the Treaty--Collection of +Dialogues--The Great Exhibition. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Start from Ghat--Reflections--Beautiful Valley of Berket--Last +Date-palms--The Kailouees--Dr. Barth lost again--Meet our Guides--The +Akourou Water--Ghadeer--Soudan Influence on the Tuaricks--Wataitee +leaves us--Oasis of Janet--Kailouee Character--A sick Slave--Rocky +Desert--Gloomy Scene--Servants--Egheree Water--Ajunjer--A threatened +Foray from Janet--Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--We have no Money--Region of +Granite--Dr. Barth's Comparisons--A Slave Caravan--Granite +Rocks--Beating Women--The Bird of the Desert--Desolate Region--Our +Relations with the Kailouees. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Reach Falezlez--Dates left in the Desert--Road-marks--Disputes with the +Kailouees--News from Tidek--Scarcity of Food in Aheer--Similitudes and +Signs of the Tuaricks--Fine Climate--Arrival of Wataitee--His +Boasting--Saharan travelling--My Umbrella--Grasping Son of +Shafou--Geology of the Desert--The "Person who gives"--Another +Caravan--Tuarick Sportsmen--Wady Aroukeen--Fine Scene--New +Trees--Kailouee Camels--Fine Nights--Well--New Moon--Passing a Caravan +in the Desert--Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks--Arrive at Tajetterat--No +Robbers--An Alarm--Well of Esalan--Senna--Birds--Graves of Slave +Children--Our Grievances against the Tuaricks. + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +News of Sidi Jafel--Disputes with Wataitee--His violent Conduct and +strange Language--The Desert--Scarcity of Money--Proceed through a rocky +Country--Soudan Weather--Approach the Frontiers of Aheer--Storm--Hard +Day's Travelling--The Seven Wells of Aisou--"The Haghar are +coming"--Suspicious Characters--Alarm--The Three Strangers--Our +Hospitality--Heat of the Weather--Hard Travelling--Account of the +Kailouee Guides--Women of the Caravan--Their Treatment--Youthful +Concubines--Another long Day--A Rock-Altar--Demonstrations of the +Haghar--Wells of Jeenanee--Marks of Rain--Sprightly Blacks--New +Climate--Change in the Vegetation and the Atmosphere. + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer--Hostile Tuaricks--An impudent +Demand--The Merchant Waldee--Prepare for Defence--Threatening +Appearances--Making Friends with Presents--March--Leave +Waldee--Doubtful Visitors--The Camels stolen--The Troop of Assailants +draws nigh--Parley--Their Proposition--We are compelled to a +Compromise--Character of our Enemies--Sinister Rumours again--Proceed +toward Tidek--Wady of Kaltadak--Picturesque Scenery--A Friend from +Seloufeeat--Fresh Mob collects to attack us--Conferences--We are to be +let go scot-free if we become Muslims--We repose--Another Compromise for +Money--Incidents during the Night--Quarrel over the Booty--Enter the +Valley of Seloufeeat--Its Soudan Appearance--Nephew of Sultan +En-Noor--Haj Bashaw of Seloufeeat--We are still uneasy. + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--People +of Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--A +Flying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forced +Passage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of the +Wady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees from +En-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--Rainy +Season--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--The +Escort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The Walad +Suleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfying +them--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--A +Speech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food. + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Promises of the Sultan--Yellow-painted Women--Presents--Anecdotes--Prepare +to visit En-Noor--Our Reception--Dialogue--Seeming Liberality of the +Sultan--Greediness of his People--No Provisions to be got--Fat +Women--Nephew of the Sultan--Tanelkum Beggars--Weather--A Divorced +Lady--Aheer Money--Our Camels again stolen--Account of the +Tanelkums--Huckster Women--Aheer Landscape--Various Causes +of Annoyance--No News of the Camels--Anecdote of my +Servants--Storms--Revolution in the Desert--Name of the +Country--Dr. Overweg--Money and Tin--Saharan Signs--Habits of the +Rain--Burial of a Woman--Demands of Es-Sfaxee--Salt-cakes of +Bilma--People of Tintalous--Wild Animals--List of Towns and +Villages--Population of Aheer and Ghat. + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Zinder Caravan--Negress playing "Boree"--Curious Scene--Objects +of Barter--Fresh Annoyances--Remarks on our Reception in +Aheer--En-Noor--Asoudee--Better News--Fresh Extortions--En-Noor +disappoints us--Europeans taken for Spies--Things in demand at +Aheer--Exercise--Overweg's Patients--Wild Animals in Aheer--Kailouees in +dry Weather--Robbing a Prince--Ghaseb and Ghafouley--Aheer +Cheese--Mokhlah Bou Yeldee--Our Wealth noised abroad--Alarm at Night--A +fresh Attack--Said's Gallantry--Disorderly Protectors--Thirteen +Robbers--Amankee--Loss of my Tea--Country of Thieves. + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +We shift our Encampment--En-Noor's Circular--The Kadi's Decision--No +Progress in the Sahara--Aghadez Gumruk--Scorpions--Election of Sultans +in Aheer--Present of Salutation--Paying for finding lost +Property--Courier from the new Sultan--No Presents sent us--Notes on +Denham--A Bornouese Measure--Intended Razzia--Firing off +Gunpowder--Hypotheses of Danger--Dress and Women--Enroute to +Bilma--Soudan Caravan--Visit from Tintaghoda--Aheer Honey--Modes of +Measurement--Power of En-Noor--Visits to him from great People--Stations +on the Bilma Road--Salt-Trade--Account of our Pursuers at +Tajetterat--Costume of the Kailouees--Their Weapons--Poisoned +Arrows--Charms--Female Dress--Names of Articles of Costume--Character of +Kailouees. + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Rainstorm--Overtures from En-Noor--Another Interview--Aheer Fashions--A +great Lady--Hoisting the British Flag--A devoted Slave--Sultan of +Asoudee--Attack on a Caravan--Purposed Razzia--Desert News--Buying +Wives--A peculiar Salutation--Oasis of Janet--New Razzias--Costume of +the Sultan--The Milky Way--Noise at a Wedding--Unquiet Nights--Sickness +in the Encampment--A captive Scorpion--Nuptial Festivities--An insolent +Haghar--Prejudice about Christians--Movements in Aheer--Bullocks. + + +[Illustration: OUTLINE OF PART OF AFRICA showing progress of the +Mission] + + + + + +NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Origin of the Missions--Its Objects and Plan--Preparations--Arrival at +Tripoli--Prussian Colleagues--Necessary Delay--The Boat for Lake +Tchad--Wind-bound--Anxieties at Tripoli--Correspondence with Mourzuk and +Ghat--Circular Letter of Izhet Pasha--Composition of the Caravan--An +aristocratic Interpreter--A Mohammedan Toper--The Chaouches--Free Blacks +returning to their Countries--Marabout--Camel-drivers--Rate of Desert +travelling--Trade of Tripoli with the Interior--Slavery--Caravans from +Central Africa--Details on Commerce--Promotion of legitimate +Traffic--Spread of Civilisation. + + +Since my return from a first tour of exploration in the Great Sahara I +had carefully revolved in my mind the possibility of a much greater +undertaking, namely, a political and commercial expedition to some of +the most important kingdoms of Central Africa. The plan appeared to me +feasible; and when I laid it in all its details before her Majesty's +Government, they determined, after mature consideration, to empower me +to carry it out. Two objects, one principal, necessarily kept somewhat +in the background--the abolition of the slave-trade; one subsidiary, and +yet important in itself--the promotion of commerce by way of the Great +Desert; appeared to me, and to the distinguished persons who promoted +the undertaking, of sufficient magnitude to justify considerable +sacrifices. Much preliminary discussion took place; but the impediments +and difficulties that naturally start up at the commencement of any +enterprise possessing the character of novelty were gradually overcome, +and in the summer of 1849 it was generally known that I was about to +proceed, by way of Tripoli and the Sahara, and the hitherto unexplored +kingdom of Aheer, to endeavour to open commercial relations and conclude +treaties with any native power so disposed, but especially with the +Sultan of Bornou. It was not thought necessary, however, to surround my +Mission with any circumstances of diplomatic splendour; and it was still +in the character of Yak[=o]b--a name already known throughout the +greater portion of the route intended to be traversed--that I proposed +to resume my intercourse with the Moors, the Fezzanees, the Tibboos, the +Tuaricks, and other tribes and peoples of the desert and the countries +beyond. + +The various preparations for the expedition occupied a considerable time +before I could leave Europe; but I shall pass over all account of these, +and enter as soon as possible on the plain narrative of my journey. We +reached Tripoli on January the 31st, 1850, having come circuitously by +way of Algeria and Tunis. Divers reasons, on which it is unnecessary to +enlarge, had prevented us from adopting a more direct route. However, +there had, properly speaking, been no time lost, and we had still to +look forward to inevitable delays. An expedition of the kind we were +about to undertake cannot be performed in a hurry, especially in Africa. +In that continent everything is carried on in a deliberate manner. The +climate is in itself suggestive of procrastination; and no one who has +there had to do with officials, even of our own country, until he has +himself felt the enervating influence of the atmosphere, can fail to +have been held in ludicrous suspense between indignation and surprise. + +It must here be mentioned that, associated with me in this expedition, +were two Prussian gentlemen, Drs. Barth and Overweg, who had volunteered +to accompany me in my expedition in the character of scientific +observers. + +The political and commercial nature of my Mission by no means excluded +such auxiliaries. It was desirable that every advantage should be taken +of this opportunity to explore Central Africa in every point of view; +and when the proposition came to me under the sanction of Chevalier +Bunsen, and received the approval of her Majesty's Government, I could +not but be delighted. It was arranged that these gentlemen should travel +at the expense and under the protection of Great Britain, and that their +reports should be duly forwarded to the Foreign Office. + +Drs. Barth and Overweg, with European impetuosity, eager at once to +grapple with adventure and research, had pushed on whilst I waited for +final instructions from Lord Palmerston. They had arrived at Tripoli +about twelve days before me, and, as I afterwards learned, had usefully +and pleasantly occupied their time in excursions to the neighbouring +mountains, which I had previously visited and examined on my way to +Ghadamez. + +We learned on landing, that a good deal of the anxiety I had felt on +account of my slow progress from England had been thrown away. Our arms, +instruments, and stores, had not yet arrived from Malta. However, they +were promised for an early date, and the hospitable reception afforded +us by Mr. Consul-general Crowe, as well as the knowledge that a vast +number of small details of preparation could be immediately commenced, +contributed to console us. + +Among the things expected, and which arrived in due time, was a boat +built by order of the Government in Malta dockyard. It was sent in two +sides, and I wished to carry it in that state. But this proved +impossible, and just before starting we were compelled to saw each side +into two pieces, which were to be carried slung in nets upon a couple of +powerful camels. This boat was expressly intended for the navigation of +Lake Tchad.[1] + + [1] It has since been launched under the British flag, and has + proved useful in the examination of the shores of the great + lake of Central Africa.--EDITOR. + +It was universally admired at Tripoli; and, as it will be useless to +bring it back, will form a most acceptable present for the Sultan of +Bornou. I cannot omit to notice, in passing, the courtesy and attention +of the authorities of Malta with whom I have been in communication; they +have all done their best to forward the objects of the Mission. + +A good deal of the delay that took place at Tripoli arose from causes +over which it was impossible to exert any control, and principally from +the bad weather, which cut off all communication with Malta. We used to +go about relating the anecdote of Charles V. illustrative of the +inhospitable seasons of this coast. "Which are the best ports of +Barbary?" inquired the Emperor of the famous Admiral Dorea. "The months +of June, July, and August," was the reply. + +Whilst waiting for the winds to waft us so many desirable things, we +actively engaged in hiring camels, procuring servants, and otherwise +making ready for a start. The details of all these preparations, which +cost me prodigious anxiety, as I was obliged to study at the same time +efficiency and economy, are described in a voluminous mass of +correspondence; but I should not think of presenting them to the general +public, which will be satisfied probably to know that at length +everything was found to be in due order, and our long-expected departure +was fixed for the 30th of March. + +I had taken care, immediately on my arrival at Tripoli, to write to Mr. +Gagliuffi, the British Consul at Mourzuk, announcing my approach and +enclosing a despatch from the Foreign Office. Moreover I had requested +this gentleman at once to send to Ghat for an escort of Tuaricks, so +that we might not be unnecessarily detained in Fezzan; and to suggest +that the Sheikhs should be assembled by the time we arrived, that the +treaty I had to propose to them might be discussed. My former visit to +this place will in some respects pave the way. Throughout the Turkish +provinces of Tripoli and Fezzan a circular letter given to us by Izhet +Pasha, and the letters of the Bey of Tunis in other quarters, will no +doubt prove of some assistance, although such documents must lose much +of their influence in the very secluded districts through which we shall +be compelled to pass. After all, we must trust principally to our own +tact, to the good will of the natives, and to that vague respect of +English power which is beginning to spread in the Sahara. + +The composition of our caravan will of course fluctuate throughout the +whole line of route; but I may as well mention the most important +personages who were to start with me from Tripoli. Setting aside my +colleagues, Barth and Overweg, there was, in the first place, the +interpreter, Yusuf Moknee, a man really of some importance among his +people, but considering himself with far too extravagant a degree of +respect. He is the son of the famous Moknee, who was Governor of the +province of Fezzan during the period of the Karamanly Bashaws. He has +squandered his father's estate in intemperate drinking. Nevertheless I +have been recommended to take him as a dragoman, and give him a fair +trial, as his only vice really seems to be attachment to the bottle. I +suspect he will not find many opportunities of indulging his propensity +in the Sahara; so that, as long as he is _en route_, he may prove to be +that phenomenon, a man without a fault! At any rate I must be content +with him, especially as he is willing to sign a contract promising to be +a pattern of sobriety! There is no one else in Tripoli so suitable for +my purpose. He is a handsome, dark-featured fellow, and when in his +bright-blue gown, white burnoose, and elegant fez, makes a really +respectable figure. I must dress him up well for state occasions. Even +in the desert one is often judged by the livery of one's servants. + +The individuals next in importance to Moknee are, perhaps, the +Chaouches, as they are called here--Arab cavaliers, who are to act as +janissaries. There is one big fellow for me, and one little fellow for +the Germans. How they will behave remains to be seen; but I suspect they +will give us some trouble. Then there are a number of free blacks from +Tunis, some married, others not, who are to return to their homes in +Soudan, Bornou, and Mandara, under our protection. Some of these have +agreed to travel partly on their own account, or nearly so, whilst +others will be paid and act as servants. One of them, named Ali, is a +fine, dashing young fellow. They are very unimportant people here, but +as we advance on our route will no doubt prove of some service, +especially when we fairly enter upon the Black Countries. A marabout of +Fezzan also accompanies us, and our camel-drivers are from the same +country. They arrived with a caravan from Mourzuk, and we were some time +detained by the necessity of allowing them and their beasts to rest +before recommencing their march over the very arduous country that lies +between this and the confines of Fezzan. + +Our progress will necessarily be slow, as all travelling is in the +desert. Camels can rarely exceed three miles an hour, and often make but +two. We may calculate their average progress at two miles and a half, so +that the reader will be pleased to bear in mind, that when I speak of a +laborious day of twelve hours, he must not imagine us to have advanced +more than thirty miles. + +Before commencing the narrative of my journey, it may be as well to +introduce a few observations on the commerce at present carried on with +the interior by way of Tripoli. In addition to the mere acquisition of +geographical, statistical, and other information, I look upon the great +object of our mission to be the promotion, by all prudent means, of +legitimate trade. This will be the most effectual way of putting a stop +to that frightful system by which all the Central Provinces of Africa +are depopulated, and all the littoral regions demoralized. When the +negro races begin to make great profits by exporting the natural +products of their country, they will then, and perhaps then only, cease +to export their brethren as slaves. On this account, therefore, I take +great interest in whatever has reference to caravan trade. + +There are now four general routes followed by the trading caravans from +the Barbary coast, leading to four different points of that great belt +of populous country that stretches across Central Africa,--viz. to +Wadai, Bornou, Soudan, and Timbuctoo. + +Wadai sends to the coast at Bengazi a biennial caravan, accompanied by a +large number of slaves. The chief articles of legitimate traffic are +elephants' teeth and ostrich feathers. This route is a modern +ramification of interior trade, and was opened only during the last +century. It is calculated that the exports of Bengazi form one-third of +the whole of those of Tripoli. + +Bornou sends to the coast by way of Fezzan, I am sorry to say, chiefly +slaves; but a quantity of ivory is now likewise forwarded by this route. + +Soudan exports slaves, senna, ivory, wax, indigo, skins, &c. &c. Nearly +half of the commerce with this important country consists of legitimate +articles of trade and barter. This is very encouraging, and the brief +history of some of these objects of legal commerce is exceedingly +interesting. Wax, for example, began to be sent seventeen years ago; +elephants' teeth, fifteen; and indigo, only four years ago. + +Timbuctoo now scarcely forwards anything but gold to the coast of +Tripoli, together with wax and ivory, but no slaves. The gold is brought +by the merchants in diminutive roughly-made rings, which they often +carry in dirty little bags, concealed in the breasts of their gowns. + +I am exceedingly glad to learn that the Ghadamsee merchants, who +formerly embarked two-thirds of their capital in the slave-trade, have +now only one-fourth engaged in that manner. This is progress. It has +been partly brought about by the closing of the Tunisian slave-mart, +partly by the increase of objects of legitimate commerce in the markets +of Soudan. The merchants of Fezzan have still to learn that money may be +invested to more advantage in things than in persons; but their +education has been undertaken, and however slow the light may be in +forcing its way to their eyes, it will reach them at last, there can be +no doubt. + +The trade in senna is always considerable. Last year a thousand cantars +were brought, from the country of the Tibboos and from Aheer. The latter +place supplies the best. New objects of exportation may no doubt be +discovered. Already gum-dragon and cassia have been added to the list of +articles brought from Soudan; and when once treaties of commerce have +been entered into, and merchants begin to find security in the desert +and protection from the native princes, there is no doubt that a very +large intercourse may be established with the interior countries of +Africa--an intercourse that will at once prove of immense benefit to us +as a manufacturing nation, and advance materially that great object of +all honest men, the abolition of the accursed traffic in human beings. +It is the latter object that chiefly occupies my mind, but I shall not +attempt to bring it before the native princes in too abrupt a manner. In +some cases, indeed, to allude to it at all would be disastrous. The +promotion of legitimate traffic must, after all, be our great lever. + +I do not profess in this place to do more than give a few hints on the +present state of trade in Tripoli, and the vast tract of half-desert +country on which it leans. What I have said is perhaps sufficient to +impart some idea of the nature of the relations between the Barbary +coast and the interior, and to suggest the importance of the enterprise +on which I am engaged. Briefly, the exportation of slaves to Tripoli and +beyond, in spite of certain changes of route, is as rife as ever, and in +this respect everything remains to be done. But, on the other hand, the +trade which, I trust, is providentially intended to supersede this +inhuman traffic, is on the increase, though slightly. If we can pave the +way for the civilising steps of European commerce, either by treaties or +by personal influence, we shall have accomplished a great work. Let us +hope and pray that the necessary health, strength, and power of +persuasion be granted to us! + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Start from the Masheeah--Painful Parting--Chaouch's Tent--A Family +Quarrel--Wady Majeeneen--A Rainy Day--Moknee's Wives--Two mad +Fellows--Great Ascent of Gharian--Tedious Day's Work--The +Castle--View over the Country--Garrison--Troglodytes--Turkish +Tax-gathering--Quarrelsome Servants--Proceed over the lofty +Plain--Underground Villages--Kaleebah--The Batoum--Geology--A Slave +Caravan--Cheerful Blacks--Rows--Oasis of Mizdah--Double +Village--Intestine Discords--Interview with the Sheikh Omer--A Pocket +Province--A Dream of Good Omen--Quarrels on Quarrels--Character of +Fezzanees--A Leopard abroad. + + +The preliminary miseries of a great journey being at length over, I rose +early on the morning of the 30th of March and started from the Masheeah, +a kind of suburb of Tripoli, distant in the country, at six. Hope and +the spirit of adventure sustained my courage; but it is always sad to +part with those we love, even at the call of duty. However, I at length +mustered strength to bid adieu to my wife--the almost silent adieu of +affection. How many things that were thought were left unsaid on either +side! It will be pleasant to fill up all blanks when we talk of these +days after a safe return from this arduous undertaking. + +It was a fresh, cheerful morning, succeeding several days of sultry +weather--an auspicious commencement of the journey. My chaouch, Mohammed +Souweea, preceded me on his great horse, murmuring some Arab ditty, and +I followed hard on my little donkey. The desert assails the walls of +Tripoli, and in half an hour we were in the Sahara sands, which here and +there rise in great mounds. I should have liked to have pushed on to +some considerable distance at once; but the habits of the country are +dilatory, and one must conform to them. In a couple of hours we came to +the chaouch's tent, where he had a wife, five children, and seven +brothers, one of whom was blind. He, too, was to go through the sad +ceremony of parting with his family; and he burst into tears when they +surrounded and embraced him. I am sorry to say, however, that before +this affecting scene was concluded, a quarrel had began between the +blind man and the chaouch's wife, about two Tunisian piastres which were +missing, she accusing him of theft and he indignantly repelling the +charge. These Easterns seem to have minds constructed on different +patterns from ours, and are apt to introduce such petty discussions at +the most solemn moments; but we must not, therefore, be hasty in +concluding that there is any sham in their sorrow, or affectation in +their pathetic bewailings. + +They brought in a bowl of milk, and as the chaouch still continued to +caress his children, I left him to pass the night in his tent, and +pushed on to Wady Majeeneen, where my portion of the caravan had already +encamped. Mr. F. Warrington, with my German colleagues, were a little in +advance. The horses of the Pasha's cavalry were feeding around; for when +the first belt of sand is past, the country becomes an undulating +plain--a prairie, as they would call it in America--covered with patches +of corn herbage. Here and there are fields of barley; and a few Arab +tents, with flocks and herds near at hand, give a kind of animation to +the scene. + +Next day (21st) it rained hard; but we went on a little to overtake Drs. +Barth and Overweg, whom we found in company with Mr. F. Warrington, Mr. +Vice-consul Reade, and Mr. Gaines the American consul. One of Mr. +Interpreter Moknee's wives had also come out here, to have some +settlement with her husband about support before she let him go. The +gentleman has two wives, both negresses; and had already made an +arrangement for the other, who has several children, of six mahboubs per +month. First come, first served. The second wife, who has two children, +only got three mahboubs a month. However, when matters were arranged, +the pair became rather more loving. These settlements are always hard +matters to manage, all the world over, and it is pleasant to get rid of +them. By the way, a son of the worthy Moknee, by a white woman now +dead--a lad of about twelve years of age--accompanies us, at least as +far as Mourzuk. + +The most remarkable persons, however, whom I found at the encampment +were a couple of insane fellows, determined to follow us--perhaps to +show "by one satiric touch" what kind of madcap enterprise was ours. The +first was a Neapolitan, who had dogged me all the while I was at +Tripoli, pestering me to make a contract with him as servant. To humour +his madness, I never said I would not; and the poor fellow, taking my +silence for consent, had come out asking for his master. They tried to +send him away, but he would take orders from none but me. I gave him two +loaves of bread and a Tunisian piastre, and also made him a profound +bow, politely requesting him to go about his business. He did so in a +very dejected manner. During the time he was with the caravan he worked +as hard as any one else in his tattered clothes, and, perhaps, he would +have been of more use than many a sane person. + +The other was a madman indeed, a Muslim, with an unpleasant habit of +threatening to cut everybody's throat. Hearing that we were going to +Soudan, he followed us, bringing with him a quantity of old metal, +principally copper, with which he proposed to trade. He gave himself out +as a shereef, or descendant of the Prophet. No sooner had he arrived +than he begun to quarrel on all sides, and, of course, talked very +freely of cutting throats, stabbing, shooting, and other humorous +things. Every one was afraid of him. He fawned, however, on us +Europeans, whilst he had a large knife concealed under his clothes ready +to strike. They were obliged at length to disarm him, and send him back +under a guard to Tripoli. We here took leave of Mr. Reade, who gave me +some last explanations about letters to the interior. It rained +furiously in the afternoon. + +We were kept idle a whole day by the rain; but starting on the second, +turned off sharp in the afternoon towards the mountains, and encamped at +length in a pretty place fronting the great ascent of Gharian. The +appearance of the chain here differs in no important particular from +that of any other part of the Tripoline Atlas. The formation is +calcareous, but the colours vary to the eye by the admixture of +minerals. Groups of sandstone are not uncommon. Rounded, rugged heads, +vary the outline of the plateau; and here and there are deep, abrupt +valleys, cut down through the range, with groves of fig-trees, almonds, +aloes, pomegranates, and even grapes, nestling in their laps. Bright +water-courses, springing up in the depths of these ravines, sustain the +streaks of half-buried verdure. + +We rose early to commence the ascent. It is not difficult unless the +camels are very heavily laden; but we did not reach the Castle of +Gharian until three in the afternoon. Our caravan dotted with groups of +various outline and colour the slopes of the spur, up the side of which +the track wound, in a very picturesque manner. Sometimes the foremost +camels stood still and complained; and then there was a half-halt +throughout the whole long line. The drivers plied the stick pretty +freely on the gaunt flanks of their beasts; the cry of "_Isa! Isa!_" +resounded in irregular chorus; pebbles and stones came leaping down at +the steep parts. As we rose over the brown slopes, the thin forests of +olive-trees partly covering the undulating plateau beyond, with fields +of barley and wheat here and there, gladdened our eyes, and contrasted +well with the hungry country we had left in the rear. + +The castle, sufficiently picturesque in structure, is placed over a deep +ravine, but is commanded by the mountain behind. We turned back on +nearing it, and beheld the plain we had traversed appearing like the sea +enveloped in mist and cloud. In fine weather the minarets of Tripoli can +be seen, but now the northern horizon faded off in haze. On either hand +the steep declivities of the hills presented a wall-like surface, here +and there battered into breaches, from out of which burst little tufts +of green, revealing the presence of springs. + +There are 200 troops stationed at the castle under Colonel Saleh, to +whom we paid an official visit; as also to the Kaid of Gharian. In both +cases we were hospitably treated to pipes, coffee, and lemonade. In this +canton are said to be the fanciful number of "one hundred and one" Arab +districts, inhabited by the Troglodytes. All the villages, indeed, +hereabouts, are underground: not a building is to be seen above, except +at wide intervals an old miserable, crumbling, Arab fort. The people are +easily kept in order by the summary Turkish method of proceeding; for +they are entirely disarmed, and matchlocks, powder and ball, are +contraband articles. The first word of an Oriental tax-gatherer is +"Pay!" and the second is "Kill!" + +The outset of a journey in the East is usually employed in finding out +the vices of one's servants. Their virtues, I suppose, become manifest +afterwards. We were on the point of sending our chaouch back from +Gharian for dishonesty; but as we reflected that any substitute might be +still worse, we passed over the robbery of our barley, and merely +determined to keep a good look-out. This worthy, though useful in his +sphere, often, as I had anticipated, proved a sad annoyance to us. When +he seemed to refrain from cheating and stealing, he rendered our lives +troublesome by constant quarrellings and rows--he and his fellow +attached to my German companions--_Arcades ambo!_ + +Mr. Frederick Warrington and the American Consul took leave of us on the +morning of the 5th. Starting afterwards about nine, we soon left the +Castle of Gharian behind, and continued our course in a direction about +south-west, amongst olive-woods and groves of fig-trees. The country was +varied enough in appearance as we proceeded. Great masses of rock and +cultivated slopes alternated. The vegetation seemed all fresh, and +sometimes vigorous. Few birds, except wild pigeons, appeared. Many of +the heights which we passed were crowned with ruined castles, mementoes +of the past dominion of the Arabs. We saw some of the Troglodytes coming +from underground now and then, and pausing to look at us. Their dress is +a simple barracan, or blanket-mantle, thrown around them; few indulge in +the luxury of a shirt; and they go armed with a great thick stick +terminating in a hook. They look cleanly and healthy in spite of their +burrowing life, but are fox-like in character as in manners, and bear a +reputation for dishonesty. + +A little after mid-day we descried afar off the village of Kaleebah, +which is built above-ground, and occupies a most commanding position on +a bold mountain-top. It remained in sight ahead a long time, cheating us +with an appearance of nearness. The inhabitants resemble, in all +respects, their mole-brethren, and occupy themselves chiefly in +cultivating olives and barley. Government exacts from them two +imposts--one special, of a hundred and fifty mahboubs on the +olive-crops; and one general, of five hundred mahboubs. We passed the +village at length, and encamped an hour beyond. Here were the last +olive-groves which were to cheer our eyes for many a long month--many a +long year, maybe. Their dark masses covered the swells right and left, +and near at hand isolated trees formed pleasant patches of shadow. + +We left our camping-ground at length next day, having overcome the +obstinate sluggishness of the blacks, and marched nearly nine hours. The +barren forms of the desert begin now to appear, the ground being broken +up into huge hills that run mostly in circles, and groups, and broad +stony valleys. The formation is limestone, often containing flints, with +a little sandstone. Patches of barley here and there splashed this arid +surface with green. At a great distance we saw two or three Arab tents, +and one flock of sheep. Towards evening began to appear a number of +beautiful bushy trees, somewhat resembling our oak in size and +appearance. The Arabs call them "Batoum." They do not seem to have yet +received their proper botanical classification. Desfontaines describes +the tree as the _Pistacia Atlanticis_. It greatly resembles the +_Pistacia lentiscus_ of Linnaeus. A few solitary birds, a flight of +crows, lizards and beetles on the ground; no other signs of life. + +The next day the country became more barren still, and the batoum +disappeared. The patches of barley likewise ceased to cheer the eye; and +little pools of water no longer sparkled in the rocky bottoms, as near +Kaleebah. The geological formation was nearly the same as yesterday; but +pieces of crystalline gypsum covered the ground, and the limestone here +and there took the form of alabaster. Some of the hills that close in +the huge basin-like valleys are of considerable elevation, and have +conic volcanic forms. All was dreary, and desolate, and sad, except that +some ground-larks whirled about; lizards and beetles still kept crossing +our path; and a single chameleon did not fade into sand-colour in time +to escape notice. No animals of the chase were seen; but our blacks +picked up the dung of the ostrich, and a horn of the aoudad. Here and +there we observed the broken columns of Roman milestones, some of them +covered with illegible inscriptions. The sockets generally remain +perfect. We saluted the memory of the sublime road-makers. + +About noon, as we were traversing these solitudes in our usual irregular +order of march, a crowd of moving things came in sight. It proved to be +a slave-caravan, entirely composed of young girls. The Gadamsee +merchants who owned them recognised me, and shook me by the hand. Our +old black woman was soon surrounded by a troop of the poor slave-girls; +and when she related to them how she was returning free to her country +under the protection of the English, and wished them all the same +happiness, they fell round her weeping and kissing her feet. One poor +naked girl had slung at her back a child, with a strange look of +intelligence. I was about to give her a piece of money, but could not; +for, the tears bursting to my eyes, I was obliged to turn away. The +sight of these fragments of families stolen away to become drudges or +victims of brutal passion in a foreign land, invariably produced this +effect upon me. This caravan consisted of some thirty girls and twenty +camel-loads of elephants' teeth. They had been seventy days on their way +from Ghat, including, however, thirty-four days of rest. Most of these +poor wretches had performed journeys on their way to bondage which would +invest me with imperishable renown as a traveller could I accomplish +them. + +The caravan was soon lost to view as it wound along the track by which +we had come. This day was exceedingly hot, whereas the previous days had +reminded us of a cool summer in England. The nights have hitherto been +clear, and the zodiacal light is always brilliant. Our blacks keep up +pretty well. There are now nine of them; five men, three women, and a +boy. They eat barley-meal and oil, and now and then get a cup of coffee. +I also feed the Fezzanee marabout, besides those specially attached to +the expedition. As to the camel-drivers, they are an ill-bred, +disobliging set, and I give them nothing extra. How different are our +negroes! They are most cheerful. As we proceed, they run hither and +thither collecting edible herbs; and, like children, making the way more +long in their sport. Sometimes their amusements are less pleasant, and +they seem systematically to take refuge from _ennui_, in a quarrel. Two +of them began to pelt each other with stones to-day; allies dropped in +on either side; laughter was succeeded by execrations; and the whole +caravan at length came to loggerheads. + +The sidr, or lote-tree, is abundant in these parts, and it is curious to +notice how in the spring season the green leaves sprout out all over the +white burnt-up shrub. All vegetation in the desert that is not perfectly +new seems utterly withered by time. There is scarcely any medium between +the bud and the dead leaf. Infancy is scorched at once into old age. + +As we advanced, the country appeared to put on sterner forms, until +suddenly, in the afternoon, the rocks opened to disclose the Wady +Esh-Shrab nestling amidst limestone hills, and containing the pleasant +oasis of Mizdah. Its beauties consist, in reality, but of a few patches +of green barley and scanty palm-groves; but, in contrast to the sultry +desert, the scene appeared really enchanting. + +We have now left the Troglodytes behind us. Mizdah (eight summer and ten +winter days from Ghadamez, three short days from Gharian, and the same +from Benioleed) is built above-ground, and consists of a double village, +or rather two contiguous villages, inhabited by people of the Arab race. +Each division is fortified after a fashion, with walls now crumbling, +and with round crenulated towers. One large tower, some fifty feet high, +has stood, they say, four hundred years. I asked, What was the use of +these fortifications? and was naively told they were for the purposes of +_shamatah_, "war," or rather "rows." And true enough, before the Turks +extended their power so far, these two beggarly villages, fifty miles +from any neighbours, were in constant hostility one with the other. Each +had its great tower, a giant among all the little towers--a kind of +keep, to which the defeated party retired to recruit its strength or +escape utter destruction. This is likewise the case with many other +double towns of the Sahara, and seems to prove that war is the native +passion and trade of man. At any rate, punishment for such turbulence +has not been wanting; for in this, as in so many other cases, whilst +these poor wretches were engaged in cutting one another's throats, the +conqueror has come and established his tyranny. They are now paying the +penalty of their love of shamatah in the shape of an impost of four +hundred mahboubs per annum, and in numbers are reduced to about a +hundred and thirty heads of families. + +We had some additional camel-drivers from Kaleebah, who, of course, +endeavoured to extort more than they had agreed for. When we had +squabbled with them a little, we had the honour of receiving Sheikh +Omer, of Mizdah, in the tent. He came with about thirty notables of the +place, the greater part of whom sat outside the doorway, whilst he +stroked his beard within, indulging in a touch of eau de Cologne and a +cup of coffee. We read him the circular-letter of Izhet Pasha, and +received all manner of civilities. The next day, indeed, he came to us +to serve as guide through the country over which he wields delegated +dominion. He had not far to go. His empire is a mere pocket one. The +palm-trees are about three hundred in number, and there are but +half-a-dozen diminutive fields of barley ripening in the ear, fed by +irrigation from several wells which supply tolerably sweet water. A few +onion-beds occur in the little gardens, which are partially shaded by +some small trees. + +Sheikh Omer supplied us with copious bowls of milk; the most refreshing +thing, after all, that can be drank in the heat of the day. We were, +however, impatient to get off, but had to wait for a blacksmith to shoe +the horses of our chaouch. The only knowing man in this department was +away at some neighbouring village, and it was necessary to send +messengers to find him. There being nothing better to do, the day, +accordingly, was spent in quarrelling. We had at least a hundred +tongue-skirmishes between our people and the people of Mizdah--between +our chaouch and the other chaouch--between our chaouch and the sheikh of +the country--between Yusuf and the Fezzanee--between every individual +black and every other individual black--Between our chaouch particularly +and all the people of Mizdah:--in short, there were as many rows as it +were possible for a logician to find relations betwixt man and man. + +I must not forget that our chaouch, in spite of all this effervescence, +had got up this morning in a very pious state of mind. He told us that a +marabout had appeared to him in a dream, and had said, "O man! go to +Soudan with the Christians, and thou shalt return with the blessing of +God upon thee!" This vision seemed to have made a deep impression upon +him at the time, but he had forgotten it long before it had ceased to be +the subject of my anxious thoughts--"O God, I beseech thee, indeed, to +give us a prosperous journey! But thy will be done. We are entirely in +thy hands!" + +_April 10th._--We had another glorious row this morning before starting. +A man who had gone to fetch the blacksmith, and found him not, demanded +payment of two Tunisian piastres. The chaouch, suspecting that he never +went at all, but concealed himself in the village, would not pay him. +This brought on a collision. Sheikh Omer supported us; and so all the +people of the other village took part against us. Two of them were +armed, and some of us thought it advisable to load our pistols. At last, +however, we pushed them away from the tent by force; and, in the first +moment of indignation, wrote a letter to the Pasha about them. Hearing +of this, they came to beg us not to send the letter, which was +accordingly torn up by the Sheikh. My chaouch was the great actor in all +this affair; and it was necessary that I should support him, even if he +were a little wrong, otherwise he would have had no confidence in +himself or us in cases of difficulty. + +The Sheikh, who, as well as ourselves, has lost some little things +during these days, gives the people of Mizdah a very bad character. In +the scuffle, I noticed that they called him _Fezzanee_, which is used as +a term of insult in these parts. "All the Fezzanees are bad people, and +all their women courtezans," says my chaouch. + +There is a large leopard reported to be abroad near the oasis of Mizdah. +He escaped from Abdel-Galeel, who brought him from Soudan, and creates +great terror among the camel-drivers. They say, with unspeakable horror, +"The nimr eats all the weak camels!" He has already devoured two. He +drinks in the neighbouring wady, where there is water six months of the +year. During the remainder he is capable, they say, of doing without +drinking. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Leave Mizdah--Gloomy Country--Matrimonial Squabbles in the +Caravan--"Playing at Powder"--Desert Geology--A Roman Mausoleum--Sport--A +Bully tamed--Fatiguing March--Wady Taghijah--Our old Friend the +Ethel-Tree--The Waled Bou Seif--Independent Arabs--A splendid +Mausoleum--One of the Nagahs foals--Division of a Goat--March over a +monotonous Country--Valley of Amjam--Two new Trees--Saluting the New +Moon--Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah--Wady Tubooneeah--Travelling +Flies--The Desert Hour--A secluded Oasis--Buying Barley--Ghareeah--Roman +Remains--Oasian Cultivation--Taxation--Sand-Pillar--Arrangements for +crossing the Hamadah--An _Emeute_ in the Caravan--Are compelled to +discharge the quarrelsome Ali. + + +We started for Mizdah, at length, towards noon, Sheikh Omer bringing us +a little on our way, and, begging to be well spoken of in high quarters; +and after passing the ruins of two Arab castles that frown over the +southern side of Wady Esh-Shrab, got into a gloomy country, exactly +resembling that on the other side of the oasis, except that the strata +of the limestone rocks, instead of being horizontal are inclined. The +whole desert, however, wears a more arid appearance. Yet there were some +lote-trees here and there, and a few tholukhs. The, traces of the aoudad +were noticed; and the blacks, picking up its dung, smelt it as musk, +saying, "It is very good." As I jogged on upon my camel, the oppressive +heat caused me to sleep and dream in the saddle of things that had now +become the province of memory. + +More quarrels! The chaouches are boiling over again; they must fight it +out between them. No doubt they are both correct in exchanging the +epithet of "thief." Scarcely has the grumbling of these two terrible +fellows died away, when the blacks are at it amongst themselves. He who +has two wives gets hold of his blunderbuss, and threatens to blow +himself to pieces. Nobody interferes; there is little public spirit in a +caravan: so he consents to an explanation, saying sententiously, "My +little wife is mad." The fact is, his two helpmates, one young and one +old, are vastly too much for him, as they would be for most men. He +moves along in a perpetual family tornado. The mother of the young one, +a sort of derwish negress, is a tremendous old intriguer, and stirs up +at least one feud a day. Quarrelling is meat and drink to her. + +It would have been out of character had not Ali got up a little +convulsion on his own account. One day, in the Targhee's absence, he +took his gun to "play at powder," and using English material, succeeded +in splitting the machine near the lock. When the Targhee returned, and +found what damage had been done, he began first to whimper, and then +working himself up into a towering passion, swore he would shoot the +culprit. Scarcely with that weapon, O Targhee! When his excitement was +over, I offered to make a collection among the people to indemnify him; +but he shook his head, laughed, and refused. The gun was nearly all his +property, and he had just bought it new at Tripoli.[2] + + [2] The Orientals are prevented by superstitious fear from + allowing any article destroyed by accident to be replaced + in the way mentioned.--Ed. + +All this part of Northern Africa may be compared to an archipelago, with +seas of various breadths dividing the islands. Three days took us from +Tripoli to Gharian, and three more to Mizdah. We were now advancing +across the preliminary desert stretching in front of the great plateau +of the Hamadah, which defends, like a wall of desolation, the approaches +of Fezzan from the north. At first occur broken limestone hills, as +previous to Mizdah; but when we approach the plateau the aspect of the +hills changes, and they are composed chiefly of variegated marl mixed +with gypsum, and with a covering of limestone. Fossil shells were picked +up at intervals. Some huge, irregular masses, that appeared ahead during +the first day, were mistaken by us for the edge of the plateau; but we +broke through, and left them right and left as we proceeded. They are +great masses of limestone and red clay, in which are scooped deep +valleys, many of them supplied with abundant herbage. As yet we have +never attained a level of more than 2500 feet above the level of the +sea. Water must exist underground, if we may argue from the presence of +the aoudad and the gazelle. Indeed, out of the line of route, amongst +the hills, there are wells and Arab tents. The presence of Roman remains +reminds us that the country has seen more prosperous times. We encamped +on the 11th in a wady, overlooked by the ruins of a mausoleum, which had +assumed colossal proportions in the distance. Some Berber letters were +carved upon its walls; probably by Tuaricks, who had formerly inhabited +the district. + +One of our blacks this day killed a lefa, the most dangerous species of +snake; and several thobs or lizards were caught. The greyhound of the +Fezzanee also ran down a hare. Next day it procured us a gazelle; but +with these exceptions were seen only ground-larks, and what we call in +Lincolnshire water-wagtails. + +It is worth mentioning that at this place our chaouch sprained his +ankle, and Dr. Overweg applied spirits of camphor as lotion. This +terrible fellow, this huge swaggerer, this eater-up of ordinary timid +mortals, was reduced to the meekness of a lamb by his slight accident; +and for the first time since the caravan was blessed with his presence +did he remain tranquil, breathing out from time to time a soft +complaint. In the course of the day he had contrived to make himself +particularly disagreeable. First he fell out with the servant of the +Germans, Mahommed of Tunis. Then he quarrelled with us all, because he +picked up a blanket for somebody and was refused his modest demand of +three piastres as a reward. We are heartily glad that he is tamed for +awhile. + +On the 12th, shortly after we started, I happened to look behind and +saw, coming from the west, some clouds that seemed to give promise of +rain. Already I felt the air cooled by anticipation, but was soon +undeceived. In the course of an hour a gheblee began to blow, and +continued to increase in violence until it enervated the whole caravan. +Our poor black women began to drop with fatigue, and we were compelled +to place them on the camels. Here was a foretaste of the desert, its +hardships and its terrors! The air was full of haze, through which we +could scarcely see the flagging camels, with their huge burdens; and the +men, as they crawled along, were apparently ready to sink on the ground +in despair. We breathed the hot atmosphere with difficulty and +displeasure. + +Right glad were we then, at length, to reach the Wady Taghijah, where I +at once recognised my old desert friend, under whose spreading and heavy +boughs I once had passed a night alone in the Sahara,--the ethel-tree! +It is a species of _Pinus_, growing chiefly in valleys of red clay on +the top of mounds, which are sometimes overshadowed by a gigantic tree, +with arms measuring four feet in circumference. Of its wood are made the +roofs of houses, the frames of camel-saddles, and bowls for holding milk +and other food. With the berries and a mixture of oil the people prepare +their water-skins, as well as tan leather. The valley is strewed with +huge branches, cut down for the purpose of extracting resin. The ethel +and the batoum are the most interesting of desert-trees, and I shall +regret to exchange them for the tholukh. I wrote down the names of +fourteen shrubs found in the valley of Taghijah: two of them, the sidr +and the katuf, are edible by man; the rest, with the exception of the +_hijatajel_, afford food for the camels. + +In this valley, amongst the trees, we found the flocks and horses of the +Waled Bou Seif feeding. This tribe--the children of the Father of the +Sword--are wandering Arabs, who have never acknowledged the authority of +the Tripoli Government. They possess flocks, camels, and horses,--every +element, in fact, of desert wealth. All the mountains near and round +about Mizdah are claimed by them as their country, which has never, +perhaps, been reduced by any power but the Roman. A young man of the +tribe, who was tending some sheep in the valley, came to visit us. He +was a fine, cheerful fellow, with an open countenance, well dressed, +having, besides his barracan, red leather boots, trousers, and a shirt. +All his tribe, according to his account, are so dressed. He boasted of +the independence of his people, who number three thousand strong, and +extend their influence as far south as Ghareeah. The name of the tribe +is derived, he tells us, from a great warrior who once lived, and was +named by the people Bou Seif, because he always carried a sword. + +Our chaouch gave us an account of this young man in the following +strain:--"He is in very deed a marabout! His wife never unveiled her +face to any man; and his own mother kisses his hand. He is master of +wealth, and never leaves this valley. He has a house and flocks of +sheep, and a hundred camels, which always rest in the valley, bringing +forth young, and are never allowed to go into the caravans," &c. &c. + +We were detained during the whole of the 13th, because the water was at +a distance and our people had to fetch it. There were marks of recent +rain in the valley, but there is no well; only a few muddy puddles. Dr. +Barth, in wandering about, discovered here a splendid mausoleum, of +which he brought back a sketch. It was fifty feet high, of +Roman-Christian architecture,--say of the fourth or fifth century. No +doubt, remains of cities and forts will be discovered in these +districts. Such tombs as these indicate the presence in old time of a +large and opulent population. + +One of the nagahs foaled this day, which partly accounts for our +detention. For some time afterwards the cries of the little camel for +its mother, gone to feed, distressed us, and called to our mind the life +of toil and pain that was before the little delicate, ungainly thing. It +is worth noticing, that the foal of the camel is frolicsome only for a +few days after its birth--soon becoming sombre in aspect and solemn in +gait. As if to prepare it betimes for the rough buffeting of the world, +the nagah never licks or caresses its young, but spreads its legs to +lower the teat to the eager lips, and stares at the horizon, or +continues to browse. + +Our people clubbed together and bought a goat for a mahboub. They then +divided it into five lots, and an equal number of thongs was selected by +the five part-owners of the meat; these were given to a stranger not +concerned in the division, and he arbitrarily placed one upon each +piece, from which decision there was no appeal. + +On the 14th we rose before daybreak, and were soon in motion. No change +was noticed in the country, limestone rocks and broad valleys running in +all directions. The ground is sometimes scattered with fossil shells, +some of the _exogyra_, others of the oyster species; all flints. There +were apparent traces of the hyaena, but of no other wild animals. Some +sheep were at graze; and the long stubble of last year's crop of barley, +in irregular patches, told us that when there is copious rain the Arabs +come to these parts for agricultural purposes. We noticed the English +hedge-thorn here and there, and thought of the green lanes of our native +land. + +Nine hours' journey brought us to the valley of Amjam, where there was a +khafilah of senna encamped among the trees. Water--rather bitter, +however--may be found here in shallow excavations; and the whole place, +with its patches of herbage, is highly refreshing to the eye. + +There are two new trees in this wady, both interesting; the _Ghurdok_ +and the _Ajdaree_. The _ghurdok_, on which the camels browse, is a large +bush with great thorns, and bears a red berry about the size of our hip, +or, as the marabout says, of sheep's dung. People eat these berries and +find them good, with a saltish, bitter taste, and yet a dash of +sweetness. The _ajdaree_ is also a thorny bush, and at a distance +something reminds one of the English hedge-thorn. On a nearer approach +the leaves are found to be oval and filbert-shaped. The berry, called +_thomakh_, is nearly as large as haws, but flatted at the sides: it is +used medicinally, being a powerful astringent in diarrhoea. + +When the moon was two days old our people practised a little of the +ancient Sabaeanism of the Arabs--saluting it by kissing their hands, and +offering a short prayer. + +On the 15th we at length sighted the edge of the plateau of the Hamadah; +and pushing on still through desert hills and valleys, arrived at Wady +Tabooneeah, having been _en route_ four days from Mizdah. This valley is +not so fertile as Amjam; and the water is more bitter. Common salt, the +companion of gypsum, was observed to-day; and wherever this is found +there are bitter salts. Swallows were skimming over the shrubs, and +birds of prey hovered about, now lying-to, as it were, overhead, with +beak and talons visible, now circling upwards until they became mere +specks. Lizards and beetles abounded as usual; but the only plagues of +the place were the flies, which had followed the camels from Gharian, +and even from Tripoli. Men usually carry their "black cares" along with +them in this way. + +As we could not expect to commence the traject of the dreaded plateau +immediately, I resolved to go upon a visit to the village of Western +Ghareeah. The camel-drivers of the caravan, of course, told us that it +was at the distance of one hour--_Saha bas!_ but we found it to be three +hours in a north-east direction. Time is of little consequence in the +desert, and no means are possessed or desired of measuring it with +exactitude. It has already been observed by a traveller, that the +Bedawin will describe as _near_ an object a hundred yards off, or a well +two days' journey from you. Western Ghareeah was likewise described as +_grayeb_, but we thought for some time that we had ventured upon an +interminable desert. However, the ground at length dipped, and a green +wady disclosed itself. We could scarcely, at first, find anybody to +receive us. But after waiting some time, the people came unwillingly +crawling out one after the other. We told them our errand--"To look at +the country and buy barley." They swore they had none--not a grain; but +when we swore in our turn that we would pay them for what we wanted, +they admitted having a little that belonged to some people in Fezzan. I +was amused with the eloquent indignation of our burly chaouch when they +professed complete destitution at first. "You dogs! do you live on +stones?" cried he. This was a settler; and showed them that they had +knowing ones to deal with. Of course their original shyness arose from +fear lest we might rob them. When a bargain was struck they became quite +friendly, and brought us out some oil, barley-cakes, and boiled +eggs--all the luxuries of the oasis! + +Ghareeah Gharbeeah stands on the brow of a limestone rock, on the +western side of a valley, which we had to cross in approaching between +date plantations and a few fields of barley. It was an ancient Roman +city; and there remains still an almost perfect bas-relief of a Victoria +on one side of the eastern gateway, which is composed of limestone +blocks a foot and a half square. We could trace also the imperfect +letters of a Latin inscription, together with some Berber characters. +The houses of the present inhabitants are formed of rough blocks of +limestone mixed with mud, and roofed with palm-trunks and palm-trees. +The water resembles that of the well of Tabooneeah, coming "from the +same rock," as the people say: it is slightly bitter and saltish. + +With the exception of the little valley we had crossed, nothing could be +seen from Ghareeah but a dreary waste, especially to the south and east. +A tower of modern date rises to the east, on a solitary rock; and we +knew that Eastern Ghareeah was concealed among the hills at a distance +of six hours. The inhabitants of these secluded towns are called +Waringab, and promise shortly to become extinct. In this Western +Ghareeah there are twenty heads of families, but very few +children,--scarce sixty souls altogether; and the population of the +other place, which gives itself airs of metropolitan importance, is not +more than double. How they have not abandoned the place long ago to +jackals and hawks is a mystery. They do not possess a single camel; only +two or three asses and some flocks of sheep; and depend, in a great +measure, on chance profits from caravans, for their valley often only +affords provision for a couple of months or so. At intervals, it is +true, when there has been much rain, they sell barley in the +neighbouring valleys; but this season has been a dry one, and the crop +has consequently fallen short. When they have no barley, they say, they +eat dates; and when the dates are out, they fast--a long, continual +fast--and famine takes them off one by one. The melancholy remnant +preserve traditions of prosperity in comparatively recent times. +Notwithstanding their miserable condition, however, these wretched +people are drained by taxation of thirty mahboubs per annum--so many +drops of blood! The eastern village pays in proportion. Possibly in a +few years this cluster of wadys may be abandoned to chance Arab +visitors, so that the starting-point for the traverse of the Hamadah +will be removed farther back, perhaps to Mizdah. There is no life in the +civilisation which claims lordship over these countries unfriended by +nature. The only object of those who wield paramount authority over them +seems to be to extract money in the most vexatious and expeditious +manner. + +I purchased of the people of Ghareeah a greyhound bitch for four +Tunisian piastres, so that we may now expect some hares and gazelles. In +returning to the encampment I observed the phenomenon of a column of +dust carried into the heavens in a spiral form by the wind, whilst all +around was perfectly calm. Such columns are not of so frequent +occurrence in the desert as is imagined, but from time to time, as in +this instance, are seen. + +The evening was spent in making arrangements with Dr. Barth and Dr. +Overweg, who had agreed to traverse the Hamadah by day, whilst I was to +follow by night, with the blacks. Next morning, accordingly, the caravan +separated into two portions, and my companions rode slowly away over the +burning desert. + +This important day could not be allowed to pass by my people without a +tremendous quarrel. Our blacks seemed to be in a peculiarly excitable +state. Ali, especially, who has distinguished himself for several days +in the obstreperous line, has had a regular turn-to with his +father-in-law; and not satisfied with this, nearly strangled Moknee's +son. The Mandara black threw himself on the ground and called +out,--"Load my pistol, O Chaouch; I must shoot this reprobate Ali!" + +This fellow is a pest in the caravan, and I have been obliged to send +him off and insist on his return to Tripoli. He may be brought to his +senses in this way. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Commence crossing the Hamadah--Last Pillar of the Romans--Travelling in +the Desert--Rapid March--Merry Blacks--Dawn--Temperature--Ali +returns--Day-travelling--Night-feelings--Animals--Graves of +Children--Mirage--Extent of the Plateau--It breaks up--Valley of +El-Hasee--Farewell to the Hamadah--Arduous Journey--The +Camel-drivers--New Country--Moral and religious Disquisitions--The +Chaouches--Reach Edree--Abd-el-Galeel--Description of Edree--Subterranean +Dwellings--Playing at Powder--The Kaid--Arabic Literature--Desertion of +the Zintanah--Leave Edree--Sandy Desert--Bou Keta the Camel-driver--Wady +El-Makmak--The Lizard--Reach Wady Takadafah--Sand--Another _Embroglio_. + + +The sun was setting as our caravan, which we had collected in as compact +a body as possible, got under way, and rising out of the valley of +Tabooneeah, began to enter upon the plateau. It is difficult to convey +an idea of the solemn impressions with which one enters upon such a +journey. Everything ahead is unknown and invested with perhaps +exaggerated terrors by imagination and report. The name of Desert--the +waterless Desert--hangs over the horizon, and suggests the most gloomy +apprehensions. Behind, in the fading light, the trees of the valley +still show their dim groups; before, the lofty level, slightly broken by +undulations, stretches away. There was one cheering thought, however. My +companions had by this time set up their tent for the night; and +although, creeping along at the camel's slow pace, we could not expect +to come up to that temporary home until it was about to be deserted, +still the knowledge of its existence took away much of the mysterious +terror with which I entered upon this desolate region in the hour of +coming shadows. An additional solemnity was imparted to the commencement +of this arduous journey by the fact that we now passed the last pillar +erected by the Romans. Their mighty power seems to have recoiled, as +well it might, before the horrid aspect of the Hamadah. + +We pushed on at a steady pace over the rough ground; and as I surveyed +the scene from my elevated position on the camel's back, I could not +help contrasting this primitive style of travelling with that with which +I had been conversant a few months before. Instead of whirling along the +summit of an embankment, or through a horizontal well miles deep, in a +machine that always reminded me of a disjointed dragon, at the rate of +some fifty miles an hour, here I was leisurely swaying to and fro on the +back of the slowest beast that man has ever tamed, in the midst of a +crowd loosely scattered over the country, some on foot, some in the +saddle--not seeking to keep any determinate track, but following a +general direction by the light of the stars, which shine with warm +beneficence overhead. There is no sound to attract the ear, save the +measured tread of the caravan, the occasional "_Isa! Isa!_" of the +drivers, the hasty wrench with which our camels snatch a mouthful of +some ligneous plant that clings to the stony soil, the creaking of the +baggage, or the whistling of the wind that comes moaning over the +desert. These are truly moments in a man's life to remember; and I shall +ever look back to that solemn night-march over the desert, which my pen +fails to describe, with sentiments of pleasurable awe. + +This night we moved at comparatively a rapid pace--nearly three miles an +hour; for there was scarcely any temptation to the camels to linger for +browsing purposes, and the drivers seemed desperately anxious to get +over as much ground as possible at once. At first all went well enough; +and now and then even, the blacks, who were on foot, braved the Hamadah +with a lively ditty--celebrating some Lucy Long of Central Africa. But +by degrees these merry sounds ceased to be heard; and the hastily-moving +crowd of the caravan insensibly stretched out into a longer line. The +poor women were beginning to knock up, and several fell at times from +mere exhaustion. We proceeded, however, without stopping, for eleven +hours, and after a long, dreary night indeed, halted at five in the +morning, having reached the encampment of our German friends. + +The dawn soon lighted up the waste, and enabled us to see that it was a +level plain of hard red earth, scattered over with pebbles and loose +pieces of limestone mixed with flint. + +The Hamadah was very cold in the night, the wind being from the north. +Dr. Overweg does not think that the plateau is more than fifteen hundred +feet above the level of the sea; but it may be two thousand, and a +little more in some places. By day it is hot enough; and as there is +little to be observed on these vast, elevated stretches of stony desert, +I thought it best to continue my original plan for three whole nights. + +To spare one's self is the great secret of Saharan travelling; and there +is, after all, not much to observe in this desolate region. + +I should mention, that the second night Ali came up in a penitent state +along with a khafilah from Ghareeah, and so our poor black women had an +opportunity of getting a lift on the spare camels. We could, therefore, +go on until morning without fear of losing any of our party in the +night. The position of a person who falls behind a caravan in the desert +very much resembles that of a man overboard. This khafilah preceded us +to Shaty. + +After the third night I found the weather so cool and temperate, that I +continued on the whole of the day; and the Germans joining me in the +evening, we did not again separate. It was towards the close of the +third night that we were assailed by an awful tempest of wind, rain, and +lightning, which flashed upon us occasionally through the thick +darkness. The Germans, who were encamped, had their tents carried away, +whilst we who were in motion found ourselves compelled to stop and +crouch under the bellies of our camels until the morning broke, and the +hurricane had spent its force. The cold was intense, and our people +complained bitterly. More than once, indeed, the thermometer was down to +freezing-point whilst we were traversing the plateau; and one morning +the desert was covered with a shining frost. + +Although we became accustomed to the desolate appearance of this +district by degrees, we counted eagerly the days and hours that brought +us nearer the confines of Fezzan. Every night's incidents were the same. +On we went, nodding drowsily on our camels, sometimes dropping off into +a sound sleep, variegated by a snatch of pleasant dreams. But these +indulgences are dangerous. I was more than once on the point of falling +off. By day, few objects of interest presented themselves: linnets and +finches fluttered here and there upon the rare bushes, whilst swallows +joined the caravan, and skimmed round and round for hours among the +camels, almost brushing the faces of the drivers. Lizards glanced and +snakes writhed across the path. We started three wadan or mouflon, +churlish animals, fond of such solitudes. As to the birds, our people +say they do not drink in winter, and in summer leave the Hamadah +altogether. Four-fifths of the surface were utterly barren. Little +mounds marked the graves of children, slaves who had perished on the way +from inner Africa. The mirage was common, but rarely pretty. Sometimes +ridges of low mountains seemed raised on the level plain, probably +reflected from the cliffs that edge the plateau. The scattered herbage +also assumed regular forms--squares, ovals, circles. Now and then it +seemed as if vast ruins were ahead, but as we drew nigh these dwindled +into little desert-mosques, formed of half-circles of stones, now turned +to the east, now to the west. Here the faithful who may be obliged to +traverse these dreary regions stop to offer up their simple prayer to +the Almighty Allah, to whom, they say, the dreadful Hamadah belongs. + +The extent of this plateau from north to south, varying in our route +from S.E. to S.W., is about 156 miles, or six long and seven short days' +journey. Sometimes our camels went at the pace of three miles, but +nearly always of two and a-half miles in the hour. It is almost +impossible to make the traverse in less than fifty-six or sixty hours. +The camels may continue on night and day, but it will always require so +much time to make the weary journey, which is considered the greatest +exploit of Saharan travelling in this portion of Northern Africa. + +On the road to Tuat from Algeria, or to Ghadamez from Tunis and Tripoli, +or to Fezzan from Bonjem or Benioleed, there is no traverse of six days +comparable in difficulty to that which we have just accomplished. There +is said to be none other like it on the road to Soudan, except a +tremendous desert between Ghat and Aheer. However, we must not trouble +ourselves about this as yet. + +As for the Hamadah, we know that near Sokna the plateau breaks up and +forms what are called the Jebel-es-Soudy, or Black Mountains, a most +picturesque group of cliffs; and again on the route to Egypt from +Mourzuk, six days' journey south-east from Sokna, it also breaks into +huge cliffs, and bears the name of El-Harouj. These mountain buttresses +are either the bounds of the Hamadah, or masses of rock where it breaks +into hills, forming ravines or valleys. But, in fact, how far the +Hamadah extends between Ghadamez on the west and Augila on the east is +not yet properly ascertained. It seems to be like a broad belt +intercepting the progress of commerce, civilisation, and conquest, from +the shores of the Mediterranean to Central Africa. The kingdom of +Fezzan, however, advances like a promontory beyond it; and then on every +side stretches the desert ocean with its innumerable oases or islands, +which, from being once mere fluctuating names, as it were, on a guess +map, are now by degrees dropping one by one into their right places. + +On the breaking-up of the plateau we observed its geological structure +to consist of three principal strata: first, a covering or upper crust, +limestone with flints and red earth; then masses of marl; and then +sandstone, lumps and masses of which were blackened by the contact of +the air with the iron they contain. Under the sandstone was likewise a +bed of yellow clay, with a mixture of gypsum. + +The face of the cliffs of the plateau was blackened as with the smoke of +a huge furnace, which gave a majestic and yet gloomy appearance to the +scene as we descended the pass towards the valley of El-Hasee. We found +the plain strewed with great masses of dark sandstone, seeming to have +been detached by some convulsion from the rocky walls, which now rose in +apparently interminable grandeur behind us. We glanced back in awe, and +yet in some triumph, towards the iron-bound desert we had thus safely +traversed; but our eyes soon turned from so bleak a prospect, when we +beheld, dotting the sandy wady, clumps of the wild palm, green copses, +and the majestic ethel-tree. + +It was about two in the afternoon when we reached the camping-ground, +all our people shouting, "_Be-Selameh el Hamadah!_" Farewell to the +Hamadah! I cried out the same words in a joyful voice; for, although now +that the dangers of the plateau were overcome they seemed diminished in +my eyes, yet I felt that we had escaped from a most trying march with +wonderful good fortune. It is difficult to convey an idea of the horror +and desolation of so vast a tract of waterless and uninhabited country. +They alone who have breathed the sharp air of its blank nakedness can +appreciate it, or understand how any accidental delay, sickness, the +bursting of the water-skins, the straying of the camels, might produce +incalculable sufferings, and even death. "_Be-Selameh el Hamadah!_" +then, with all my heart. "_Be-Selameh! be-Selameh!_" again rings through +the caravan, as we reach at length our camping-ground, and throw +ourselves at full-length under the pleasing shade. Even the +camel-drivers were so fatigued, that they stretched out as soon as the +command to halt was given, and let their animals stray at will, without +taking the trouble to unload them. I had observed the same supineness +during our halts all through this trying district, which seems to +oppress their imaginations as well as prostrate their bodies. Several +times I had been obliged myself to collect wood and make a fire to rally +our lagging servants. Indeed, on more than one occasion I was compelled +to exert my personal authority. On the third night, particularly, I +wished all the people to rest one hour. The camel-drivers resisted this +reasonable request, and were backed by Yusuf. When it became a question +between myself and my interpreter, I jumped off my camel and stopped the +caravan. The chaouch supported me, and in this case at least behaved +very well. If we had continued all night, we should have made a march of +sixteen hours,--too much for the blacks, and indeed for any man on his +feet. + +On the whole, however, I have to observe, that as we approach Fezzan our +camel-drivers are getting more civil and obliging. Is this the genial +effect of native air, or expectation of a present? They have not +mentioned the latter subject yet, but, on the contrary, promise me some +dates. + +The broad valley of El-Hasee is sandy, like all those of Fezzan. It is +bounded on the north by the perpendicular buttresses of the Hamadah, and +on the south by sandy swells. The well is not copious, but affords a +regular supply of slightly brackish water. The people descend to the +bottom, thirty or forty feet, and fill their gerbahs. The blacks are +very troublesome, and require a good deal of patience. This morning they +would not fetch water from this well, although quite close by the tent. +I was obliged to threaten to leave them before I could get them to move. +They are, probably, a little broken down by the fatigue of the Hamadah. + +We passed through Wady El-Hasee on the 24th, and after mid-day began to +ascend, and continued to do so until we pitched tent at half-past four, +at a place called Esfar. This is also a species of plateau, but consists +of sand-hills, sandstone rocks, and shallow valleys filled with herbage +and shrubs. I was glad to get rid of the eternal limestone and have a +change of the sandstone. + +On the 25th we started early, and had a cool temperature all day. Our +chaouch went out, and by the assistance of the greyhound bitch brought +in a young gazelle. For about three hours the camels had herbage; but +afterwards came a desert more horrible even than the Hamadah. It +consists of sandstone rocks, and valleys covered with pebbles and loose +blocks. Some of the rocks are perfectly black, and would be considered +by an European geologist, on a distant view, as basalt. Until half-past +four in the afternoon we did not see a blade of grass, a sprig of +vegetation, or living thing of any description; but at the +camping-ground was a thin scattering of herbage, near the foot of the +black mountain called Solaou Marrafa. + +We have sometimes moral disquisitions among our people. This day we had +a dispute on religion. The Zintanah, a real orthodox Musulman, +maintained a strict distinction between the believers and unbelievers, +giving heaven to the former and hell to the latter. Yusuf and several +more tolerant gentlemen held out hope of mercy to us all, as God was +"the Compassionate and the Merciful." The chaouch also lectured the +people on courage, and publicly maintained that the Fezzanees were all +cowards. This fellow is a second Sir John Falstaff, without the +corpulence. The tone of all members of the caravan, as I have mentioned, +is now much humanised. Every one is more civil to us, and, by habit, to +one another. However, the chaouches must, of course, get up a quarrel +now and then: they do it between themselves; but, as a sign that they +likewise are a little civilised, have only had two regular explosions +to-day. Probably these worthies, who remind me of a bull-dog and a +terrier, find particular pleasure in this form of social intercourse; +for I always observe, that they are on more friendly terms than ever +after they have almost come to beard-pulling. + +I interfere as little as possible in all these quarrels, but now and +then it is difficult to hold aloof. This morning, for example, the black +who has two wives, took it into his head to beat one of them in public. +I called upon him to desist, upon which he went to work harder than +ever; so that I was compelled to break a stick over his shoulders to +reduce him to quietness. These little caravan incidents were often the +only ones that diversified our day. + +On the 26th, after a march of ten hours, with cool weather at first, but +suffocating heat afterwards, we reached Edree, a town of El-Shaty, in a +state of great exhaustion. During the latter part of the march, however, +we had been cheered by the sight of the town, which stands on a small +mound of yellow clay and rock. The whitewashed marabout of Bou Darbalah +gleamed a little distance in front of the place, which in itself is now +a heap of ruins, having been destroyed by Abd-el-Galeel, on account of +the resistance of the inhabitants to his usurped authority. He also, +with a cruelty rarely practised in Saharan warfare, cut down above a +thousand palms; thus rendering it impossible for the place to recover +rapidly from its disasters. Previously there had been a hundred and +twenty heads of families; now there are only twenty-five, and these are +still diminishing it is said. However, many little children are now in +the streets, naked, and covered with filth. + +These few inhabitants are a mixed race, some being as fair as those on +the coast, whilst others are as black as the darkest negroes of Central +Africa. The Sheikh and two or three patriarchs of the village were +polite and hospitable, and showed every disposition to comply with the +orders sent by the Pasha of Mourzuk to supply us with fresh provisions +without payment. I accepted a sheep and two fowls; but the dates for our +blacks I paid for, and added a few presents. + +The valley of Edree is very shallow, and this portion of it is mostly +covered with bushes of wild palm and with coarse herbage; it looks green +and grateful amidst the surrounding aridity. There are still remaining +many fruit-bearing date-trees--about seven thousand, scattered at great +distances. The water is good, although the surface of the valley is in +parts covered with a whitish crust of salt. Some large springs are +continually overflowing with bubbles of gas, like the great well of +Ghadamez. + +In the garden-fields of Edree are cultivated wheat and barley, the +former white and of the finest quality. A good deal of grain has already +been got in this year. With industry, and a few more animals to draw the +water for irrigation, a great quantity of wheat might be grown in this +oasis. The gardens contain also a few figs and grapes. Doves were +fluttering in the branches of the palms, and swallows darting through +their waving foliage. There were thousands of native flies here, besides +those that had come with us. When we complained, we were answered, "This +is a country of dates!" + +Shaty has eighteen districts, some very limited, but having date-palms, +and paying contributions to Mourzuk. Edree, itself, is drained of four +hundred mahboubs per annum. + +_27th._--I rose at sunrise and went to see the ancient dwellings of +Edree, where the people lived underground: they are excavations out of +the rock, some fifty yards from the surface beneath the modern town. The +entrances are choked with sand, and they are not entered by the people, +who say "They are the abodes of serpents." At present, there is nothing +remarkable about them. Probably they were originally natural caves, +which were enlarged and arranged as dwellings. + +On returning to the encampment, I found that the Kaid, or commander of +the troops of the Shaty district, had arrived with some Arab cavaliers: +he has in all thirty horsemen. Our visitors offered to "play powder" in +order to do us honour; but were compelled to beg us to supply the +ammunition. It was a very animating scene, after the dreary journey over +the Fezzanee deserts. A dozen mounted cavaliers dashed to and fro, +shaking the earth, scouting and firing from time to time. Everybody +enjoyed it; even the half-naked, dirty, brown-black ladies of the town, +stopped with their water-jugs, and looked on with satisfaction. The Kaid +was the best man of his men; but Yusuf afterwards dressed and beat the +victor, riding with great dexterity, and attracting the spontaneous +applause of all the spectators. The Kaid trembled whilst contending with +Yusuf, who was set down as a marabout in consequence by our chaouch. + +I gave the Kaid, who was a mild and respectful man, a handkerchief, a +little bit of writing-paper, and some soap, and sent him off to his +station, whence he had come on purpose to visit us. Three handkerchiefs +formed also an appropriate present to the Sheikhs of Edree. + +Yusuf has been reading an Arabic book, which I at first thought was some +commentary on the Koran; but to-day I was undeceived. He related what he +read; it reminded me of Gulliver's Travels. A tall man walks through the +sea, cooks fish in the sun, and destroys a whole town, whose inhabitants +had insulted him, by the same means that our comparative giant saved the +palace of Lilliput from conflagration. + +This evening it was announced as an event that the Zintanah, a servant +of the Germans, was going to Tripoli, having resolved to return home. +Some said one thing about him, some another; but most, "He's afraid of +the fever of Mourzuk." The fellow came afterwards to me, asking for +letters to Tripoli. I told him to go about his business; that he was a +man of words and had no heart, otherwise he would continue with us to +Mourzuk. I wished to discourage such acts of desertion, for they produce +always a bad effect. My German companions seemed glad to get rid of him. + +We started again on Sunday morning (the 28th). This was our first day of +sand. We had almost forgotten that there was such a thing as sand in the +desert; but we shall have two days more of the same kind of travelling, +to keep us in mind of this unpleasant truth. However, we were glad +enough to leave Edree. Our marabout, comparing this place with El-Wady, +for which we are now journeying, says, "Edree is like a jackass; El-Wady +is like a camel!" Yusuf calls Edree "the city of camel-bugs." These +vermin are the leeches of the camels. During the morning we passed two +or three forests of palms, and afterwards traversed a flat valley, where +was a little herbage. The people said; "There is no tareek (track): the +tareek is in our heads." Bou Keta noted the route in many parts by the +presence of camels' dung; but the shape of the sand-hills in these parts +seems to be perfectly familiar to these men. We saw one or two lizards, +but no birds or other signs of life, except two brown-black Fezzanees, +trudging over the desert. + +At four in the afternoon, after a day of hot wind, we encamped in Wady +Guber, where there is water two or three feet below the surface; and a +small forest of palms belonging to our camel-drivers, having descended +to them in small groups from their grandfathers. + +Next day (29th) we again went on over the sand, which extends beyond +Ghadamez and Souf, to the west, and even to Egypt on the east. It is met +at different points by the khafilahs, and crossed in different numbers +of days. We found it very hard work to cross it, and understood why, in +these parts, the words _raml_, sand, and _war_, difficult, have become +convertible terms. Bou Keta had considerable trouble in keeping to the +route, being reduced to depend chiefly on the camels' dung, which rolls +about the surface of the sand. Here and there was a patch of coarse +herbage, scattered like black spots on the bright, white surface. Every +object was very much magnified at a little distance; I saw what seemed +to me to be a horse on the top of one of the hills, but on drawing near +it proved to be our own greyhound bitch smelling the hot air. + +Bou Keta gave some account of himself to-day. It seems that "Fezzanee" +is not a very respectable epithet in those countries. + +"I am not a Fezzanee," said Bou Keta, abruptly. + +"Then what are you?" + +"My mother was a Tuarick woman, and my father one of the Walad +Suleiman." + +"Then the Walad Suleiman are gentlemen, whilst the Fezzanees are Turks +and dogs?" + +"That's the truth," quoth he. + +To-day I found the veil of my sister-in-law of essential service. +Doubled, it shielded my eyes perfectly from the hot wind and sand. It +serves also as an excellent protection for the eyes against the flies +whilst I am writing. This is the second day of the hot wind. In the +evening we heard crickets singing in the scorching sand. At mid-day the +thermometer, when buried, rose to 122 deg. Fahr. We encamped in Wady +El-Makmak, where we had good water, far superior to that at Guber. As in +nearly all sandy places, a hole is scooped in the sand and then covered +over, or left to be filled by the action of the wind after the khafilah +is supplied. Two pretty palms point, as with two fingers, to the buried +wells of El-Makmak. + +Some of our people noticed the lizard to-day. This seems to be the +omnipresent animal of the Sahara, inhabiting its most desolate regions +when no other living creature is seen. It changes in species with the +nature of the country. To-day, those seen are large; very soon they will +become small, meagre, and will change colour. In the valleys I have +observed them nearly the same colour as the sandy soil. Perhaps the +beetle is nearly as common as the lizard in the desert, being found in +its most arid and naked wastes. It is generally a big, round, +black-bottle beetle, which produces a trail in the sand that may be +mistaken for that of the serpent. + +Still the following day we had to cross the same kind of desert, under +the enervating influence of the gheblee, or hot wind; the thermometer in +the sand reached 130 deg.. Although the camels were eight hours on foot, +little progress was made. I stopped an hour to rest in Wady El-Jumar, +where were two or three palm-groves. One of the Fezzanees ferreted out a +lot of dates, hidden in the sand, and taking some distributed them +amongst us. + +Thus refreshed we pushed on to encamp in Wady El-Takadafah, where there +is a well of water, good to drink, but disagreeable in smell, like that +of Bonjem. The odour resembles that of a sewer, and is produced by +hydrogen of sulphur. We have had good water every day in this sandy +tract, and I have no doubt that some may be found in every wady, a +little below the surface. Birds begin now to reappear: a few swallows, a +dove, and some small twitterers, were seen to give life to the otherwise +melancholy wadys. + +Dr. Overweg examined the sand, which rolled in great heaps on every +side, and found it to consist of grains of four kinds,--white, yellow, +red, and black; the latter colour caused by the presence of iron. These +variegated sands form the basis of sandstone, and may be a decomposition +of sandstone. The sand near Tripoli is of a finer sort, consisting +mostly of a decomposition of limestone. There is a blue-black earth in +the wadys, arising from the wood, a species of crumbling coal. + +This evening we had a famous _embroglio_ between our chaouch and the +marabout. The latter had caught a waran, or large species of lizard, and +skinned it to dispose of the skin. The chaouch impudently swore he had +been eating the flesh of the reptile--a direful accusation. A tremendous +war of words ensued; and not of words only, for presently the holy man +came in for a gratification of ropes' end. All the Fezzanees rushed +forward to save the honour of the marabout; and the chaouch retreated to +my tent in search of arms. A stupid joke was on the point of leading to +murder. I interfered, and succeeded in appeasing the storm in some +degree. I then rated the chaouch soundly for beating a man invested with +a sacred character in the eyes of all Musulmans. This produced a good +effect, and the culprit, hanging his head, seemed ashamed of the part he +had played. Subsequently he kissed the hand of the holy man, and they +were reconciled. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +More sandy Desert--Fatiguing March--Water and +Herbage--Water-drinking--Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk--Hot +Wind--Arrival in El-Wady--Tuaricks--Laghareefah--Fezzanees--The +Chaouches astray--The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady--Description of +the Oasis--Tempest--Native Huts--Official Visits--Desert +News--Camel-drivers--Ruins of Azerna--Move on--The Kaid--Modest +Requests--Ladies of the Wady--Leave the Oasis--Vast Plain--Instinct of +the Camel--Reach Agar--Reception--Precede the Caravan--Reach +Mourzuk--Mr. Gagliuffi--Honours paid to the Mission--Acting +Pasha--Climate--Route from Tripoli--Its Division into Zones--Rain in the +Desert. + + +On the 1st of May we had an arduous piece of work to perform. The +khafilah was in motion fourteen entire hours, over heavy sand, with the +hot wind breathing fiercely upon it. No amateur walking was indulged in. +Every one kept sullenly to his camel; and those who were obliged to +advance on foot dragged slowly along, seeming every moment as if they +were about to abandon all exertion in despair, and lie down to perish. +Our course lay mostly south, as usual; but varied occasionally from +south-east to south-west. The scene was one of the most singular that +could be imagined. Camels and men were scattered along the track, +treading slowly but continually forward, and yet not seeming to advance +at all. Instead of the cheering cry of "_Isa! Isa!_" which urges on the +burdened beasts over rocky deserts, the dull, prolonged sound of +"_Thurr! Thurr!_" was substituted. Beyond this there was no noise. The +men had no strength to talk or to sing, and the tread of many feet +awaken no echo in the sandy waste. Waves of red and yellow, or of +dazzling whiteness, swelled round in a circle of ever-varying diameter +as we rose and fell. Here and there stretched great stains of black +herbage. Every object is magnified and changed to the eye. The heat and +the swinging motion of the camel produce a slight dizziness, and the +outer world assumes a hazy indistinctness of outline--something like +dream-landscapes. There is a desert-intoxication which must be felt to +be appreciated. + +We must not, however, libel even the Sandy Desert, by producing the +impression that it is all barren and comfortless. Though far more +difficult to travel over than the Hamadah, it possesses the inestimable +advantage of having water every day once at least. A little after noon, +indeed, we passed two lakes; one small, and the other of considerable +dimensions, containing sweet water, and bordered by a fringe of +palm-trees. At times there is very good herbage for the camels. The most +frequent shrub on which they browse is the _resou_, which has small ears +of grain, eaten also by men as food. Traces of animal life, as I have +observed, are few; but we saw this day two broken ostrich-eggs. How they +came there it is difficult to say: no traces or footmarks have been +remarked. + +At length I had begun to find drinking a necessity. During these days of +sand I imbibed more than during the whole of the rest of the journey. +The eating of dates added to my thirst; and the blacks complained of the +same thing. Dates are much better in the winter, and keep the cold out +of the stomach; but I should recommend all Saharan travellers to eat as +few of them as possible, at any season of the year. + +During this last day, beyond the expanse of sandy waves through which we +swam, as it were, had risen ahead some very conspicuous mountains. Even +at five in the morning we could see detached along the line of the +horizon the highest and most advanced portion of the edge of the plateau +of Mourzuk. In three hours the white line of cliffs came in view, +looking like a stretch of black-blue sea, contrasting strangely with the +sparkling white-sand undulations that stretched to their feet. Some of +us thought that an inland sea--never before heard of--had rolled its +waters athwart our path, so perfect was the illusion. The heavens, this +day particularly, attracted our attention. What a sky! how beautiful! +The ground was a soft, light azure; and on its mildly resplendent +surface were scattered loosely about some downy, feathery clouds, of the +purest white--veils manufactured in celestial looms! + +We expected to reach our premeditated halting ground about noon, or +before, these cliffs seeming so near. But as day wore on, new expanses +of glittering desert seemed to stretch out before us; and every hillock +gained disclosed only the existence of new hillocks ahead. Meanwhile the +hot wind still blew with unremitting violence, scorching our faces, and +penetrating to the inmost recesses of our frames. The poor blacks, who +were on foot, gazed wistfully ahead, and ever and anon called to those +who were nodding on the camels, as if stunned by the heat, to tell them +if they might hope for rest. I found my eyesight dimming, and deafness +coming on. The thermometer was plunged into the sand, and the mercury +instantly mounted to above 130 deg.. + +At length we sighted the wady, stretching like a green belt between the +sand and the mountains beyond. We found that we had been traversing an +elevated swell of the desert, for we were full three quarters of an hour +descending to the level of the valley. + +The first specimen of inhabitants we saw on arriving was a group of +naked children with their mother, who covered herself up in her barracan +on our approach. The children were nearly all females, and even those of +not more than three or four years of age seemed wonderfully developed. +They had formed a house out of a thick bush of wild palms over the well. + +These people are what are called Tuaricks of Fezzan. They are a +dwarfish, slim race; and the Fezzanees call them _their_ Arabs. They +cover up their faces like their kindred of Ghat, but have for the most +part white _thelems_ instead of black. A few sport a red fotah, or +turban. They speak Arabic commonly, but some know also the language of +Ghat; which fact connects them certainly with that country. Their proper +name is Tanelkum, a genuine Tuarick word, and decisive of their Targhee +origin. Their trade is chiefly camel-driving between Ghat and Fezzan. +They are a fairer and finer race than the Fezzanees, and do not +intermarry with them. Their numbers are not great, perhaps scarcely more +than a thousand souls in all Fezzan; but they live in a state of entire +independence, and pay no contributions to the Porte. + +We passed the first well and came up with the true Fezzanees at the +village of Laghareefah, where we encamped. It is situated in Wady +Gharbee, more properly called El-Wady _par excellence_, on account of +its superior fertility and culture. There is also Wady Sherky, and +several others; as Etsaou, Akar, Um-el-Hammam, Takruteen, and Aujar. The +people of Laghareefah are all of a black-brown hue, and some had the +ordinary negro features. They were a little rude at first, but made some +compensation in the evening by sending us a good supply of meat and +fresh bread to our tents. + +To our surprise, we saw nothing of our chaouches here; and on making +inquiries, we found that they were not with the caravan. They were known +to have pushed on ahead, impatient to arrive. We suspected they had +taken the wrong route, and did not remember to have seen the track of +their horses' hoofs on the sand as we advanced. At first we were not +sorry that they were suffering a little for their bad conduct all the +way from Tripoli, to which I have only made passing allusions. But then +we began to be alarmed for their safety, and begged the Sheikh to send a +man after them with water. They did not make their appearance until +morning, when we learned that with immense fatigue they had succeeded in +striking the valley lower down at another village, where they had +tarried the remainder of the night. As might be expected, they were in +no good humour after their excursion in the sand; but our people, who +had enjoyed a brief respite of unwonted tranquillity during their +absence, instead of condoling with them, received them with laughter and +jeers. + +The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady sent us breakfast, and he and his people were far +more polite than yesterday. We learned that there was a caravan in the +wady about to start for Ghat, and I took the opportunity to write to +that place to produce a proper impression of our views and intentions, +as I learned that a very erroneous one had gone abroad. The Sheikh and +his elders came to ask me to _lend_ them twelve mahboubs, to make up the +amount of tribute now being collected by the agents of the Pasha of +Mourzuk. Of course I did not consent, representing that I was at the +outset of a long journey, and that the Pasha would certainly punish them +if he ever heard that such a request had been made. As a solace for the +disappointment, I gave the Sheikh three handkerchiefs and a +pocket-knife. The Tuaricks came in for a little soap, an article +seemingly in universal request. + +El-Wady is a deep valley, lying like a moat between the elevated sandy +desert and the plateau on which Mourzuk is situated. This plateau, at +the distance of every few miles, juts out huge buttresses of +perpendicular cliffs, which frown over the broken thread of green +vegetation in the valley. Thick forests of palms stretch at various +points along the low plain, where are springs plentifully furnished by +filtration from the high ground on either hand. The various kinds of +oasian culture are pursued here with success. Wheat and barley are +produced in considerable quantities; and camels, asses, and goats find +plentiful nourishment. The villages are numerous; but some contain only +few men, and none exceed forty-five. Takarteebah, the largest place, +pays four hundred and ninety mahboubs per annum, cultivates four +thousand palms, yielding a hundred and fifty kafasses of dates, thirty +of wheat, and eight of barley; it feeds eleven asses. I observed that +all domestic animals, the goats especially, attain a very diminutive +size in these oases, the nourishment for them being but scanty. + +In this oasis the palm-groves are much more dense than in any other I +have seen. They almost merit the name of forests, both from their size +and wild luxuriant appearance. The Fezzanees pay little attention to +their culture, and when a tree falls it is frequently suffered to lie +for months, even though it block up the public road. In contrast to the +burning desert we had just traversed, these dense woods casting their +shadows on the white sand produced a most pleasing effect. We eagerly +wandered into the cool arcades, and watched with delight the doves and +hippoes, and other birds, as they fluttered to and fro amidst the +drooping leaves. + +Laghareefah, like Edree, had been destroyed by the brilliant, though +ruthless usurper, Abd-el-Galeel, on account of its resistance to his +authority. The old town is at a little distance from the new, and was +evidently a much better-built place, commanded by an earthen kasr or +fortress. + +On May 2d, we had a tempest of thunder and lightning to the south on the +hills, produced by the intense heat of the morning, and its accumulation +during the previous few days. Rain seemed to be falling at a distance of +a few hours. In the evening the mercury still stood about 100 deg.. The heat +now was still very distressing. The wind came charged with dust that +rolled in columns, like smoke beaten down by a tempest, across the +surface of the valley. All the vegetation seemed withered, as if in an +oven; and the wheat in the ear was brittle, as though roasted. There is +a good deal of wheat in this oasis. I observed an old woman reaping, and +went to chat with her. Her sickle had a long handle, and the blade +itself was narrow, but slightly bent and somewhat serrated. I tried it, +and found that it answered its purpose very well, however rude in +appearance. + +I entered one of the huts made of palm-branches, and carelessly smeared +with mud--an attempt at plastering that can hardly be called successful. +The door was formed of rough planks of date-wood, and the flooring of +hard-trodden earth, covered with mats. The principal article of +furniture was, as usual, the small hand corn-mill, for nearly every +person in the East is still his own miller. The huts, though rude in +outward appearance, were dark, cool, and comfortable within. In the town +itself, many of them are built entirely of mud; that is to say, of round +mud balls, first moistened with water, and then dried in the sun. I +entered several, and found that most were empty. Where we found people, +they were courteous and cheerful in manners, and smiled at the curiosity +with which I lifted up the wicker covers of their pots and jars. In one +I found a little sour milk; in another, some bazeen; in another, a few +dates soaking in water. A small vessel now and then occurred, full of +oil; but this is the greatest luxury they possess. + +None of the doors has either lock or key. The Fezzanee observed, +"Strangers may steal, but Fezzanees never. All the dates remain securely +on the trees until gathered by the owners." It must be observed, +however, that the anomaly of vast possessions being held by one man, who +can scarcely consume or utilise the produce, whilst others have not a +stone whereon to lay their heads, and depend even for a burial-place +upon charity, is not to be observed in this barbarous country. + +The children of the Wady, up to the age of seven or eight years, go +about perfectly naked, which may partly account for the bronze-black +colour of their skins. The Tuaricks are generally fairer than the +Fezzanees, though some of these latter are fair as the Moors on the +coast, whilst others are black as very niggers. + +We received a visit from the Nather, or civil governor of the Wady. He +is a Fezzanee, Abbas by name; and thankfully received the present of a +handkerchief. The Kaid, or military commander, is a Moor from Tripoli. +Everybody seems interested about us, and there is a perfect flux of +visits. All the authorities around seem to make our arrival a holiday. +We are quite the fashion. The chaouch gets drunk in the evening on +leghma, furnished by the Nather, who wants to worm out all the news; and +there is little doubt that he has learned the whole truth, and a good +deal more. El-Maskouas, the Turkish officer employed in collecting +contributions for Mourzuk, arrived at the camp and brought letters from +M. Gagliuffi. He also told us that the Sheikh of Aghadez had not yet +returned from his pilgrimage to Mekka. The motions of all these desert +magnates are circulated from mouth to mouth as assiduously as those of +our Mayfair fashionables. + +Among our visitors was Haj Mohammed El-Saeedy, the owner of our camels. +His social position answers to that of an English shipowner. He is a +marabout of great celebrity in this country, and moves about in an +atmosphere of respect. By the way, when it became clearly impressed upon +my mind that the Fezzanee camel-drivers were merely employed for hire, +and had no property whatever in the beasts they drove, my opinion of +them began to rise. It would have been impossible to take more care of +the camels than they did. + +We remained stationary in the Wady, from the 1st of May to the evening +of the 3d, when we moved on to Toueewah. After dark was passed Azerna, +in the neighbourhood of which stood the ancient town, celebrated for its +ruins. The modern place, though presenting a martial kind of appearance +with its battlemented mud walls, contained only ten inhabitants, who +live like so many rats in holes or under the piles of ruins. On the 4th, +when the people removed our beds in the morning, a scorpion sallied +furiously forth. We had been sleeping with him under our pillows. We +moved on, still in the Wady, for a couple of hours, until we came to the +house of the Kaid, and once more encamped. His habitation is large, +commodious, and well protected from the sun. He showed us his +sleeping-apartment, which is airy and well protected from the sun. A +number of little wicker baskets, the handiwork of his wife, served as so +many clothes-presses. The baskets of Fezzan are perfectly water-tight. + +This Kaid, called Ahmed Tylmoud, is quite a character, and looks very +droll with his single eye. He has twenty soldiers only under his command +throughout the valley. The Turks do not waste their men, making up by +severity for want of numbers. Like the commandant of Shaty, this Ahmed +Tylmoud insisted on "playing at powder" with his men for our +edification; but was also obliged to beg his ammunition. It is singular, +that although these people are only armed with matchlocks, and are +supposed to be ready for service, either to defend the country or levy +contributions, they seem entirely destitute of all necessary provisions +for that purpose. + +We were pestered with two very modest requests, which were not in our +power to grant. In the first place, the native inhabitants sent a +deputation to ask us to use our influence with the Governor of Mourzuk +to procure a reduction of their taxes; and then the Arab troops desired +that we should procure for them their discharge. Our refusal even to +take the charge of these verbal petitions seemed very harsh. An +impression had evidently got abroad that we came to bring about a +general redress of grievances; or, at any rate, that our influence was +far greater than we chose to avow. + +I gave to the Kaid a handkerchief, as well as some snuff and tobacco. In +return, he sent a little bread and a fly-flapper; so that we parted good +friends. During our stay, we heard this jolly fellow entertaining the +chaouches and his own horsemen with a description of the ladies of the +Wady, who had no reason to be flattered by his account. And yet he seems +to have married one himself: _hinc illae lachrymae_, perhaps. My chaouch +had already given me a confirmation of these libels, and was evidently +greatly delighted by this testimony to his exactitude. + +There are several roads from the Wady to Mourzuk, all much about the +same distance. It is said, also, that Ghat is only ten days from +Laghareefah. We moved on a little further on the evening of the 4th, but +did not start properly until next day, when we made a long stretch of +more than thirteen hours, and encamped at the village of Agar, where I +remembered having halted once before on my way from Ghat. During this +day's march we found, that what we had supposed to be the border of the +Mourzuk plateau was not in reality so. We soon reached the summit of the +cliffs, and having cast back a glance upon the valley, with its expanse +of corn-fields and thousands of palm-trees, expected to find an elevated +plateau beyond; but the hills gradually softened down into a plain on +their eastern side. Our route may be said to have led through a +wilderness, not a desert. On all sides were clusters of the tholukh, +which grows prettily up, and has a poetical appearance. The ground at +some places was strewed with branches, cut down for the goats to feed +on. Then we came to a small wady full of _resou_, which our marabout +calls the "meat of the camel;" and all the camels at once stopped, and +for a long time obstinately refused to proceed. This appeared strange to +us, but on inquiry we found that the sagacious brutes remembered +perfectly well that until the evening there would be no herbage so good, +and were determined to have their fill whilst there was an opportunity. +The drivers, after indulging them a few moments, took them in flank, and +their shouts of "_Isa! Isa!_" and some blows, at length got the caravan +out of this elysium of grass into the hungry plain beyond. As we +proceeded, a cold bracing wind began to blow from the east, and +considerably chilled our frames. I had met the same weather four years +previously. Towards evening, however, it became warmer, as it usually +does. The country was bare and level, like an expanse of dull-coloured +water; and the palm-trees that cluster near the village rose slowly +above the horizon as we drew nigh. The sun had gone down, and the plain +stretched dim and shadowy around before we came in sight of the group of +hovels which form the village. As I looked back, the scattered camels +slowly toiling along could be faintly traced against the horizon. + +The Sheikh of Agar received us well this time, sending us two fowls and +supper for our people. This place consists of huts made of palm-branches +and of mud hovels, several of which are in ruins. The same remark +constantly recurs in reference to almost all the towns of Barbary, both +towards the coast and far in the interior. The vital principle of +civilisation seems to have exhausted itself in those parts. + +I was now in a country comparatively familiar to me, and knew that I had +but one more ride to reach the capital of Fezzan. Rising early on the +6th, therefore, I determined to press on in advance of the caravan; and +starting with warm weather, puffs of wind coming now from the +south-east, now from the north-west, very unsteadily--the atmosphere was +slightly murky, with sand flying about--I soon came in sight of the +palm-groves of Mourzuk, without making any other rencontre than a +Tuarick coursing over the desert in full costume. The old castle peeped +picturesquely through the trees, but I had still a good way to go before +reaching shelter. The sand and white earth that form the surface of the +oasis near the town were painfully dazzling to my eyes. + +At length I reached the suburbs, where a few people stared curiously at +me. My arrival had been announced by the chaouches, who had gone on +about a quarter of an hour before; and at the eastern gate the soldiers +allowed me to pass without notice, or any allusion to _gumruk_. Mr. +Gagliuffi had come out to meet me; but having taken a different gate we +crossed, and I arrived on my camel at his house, and found it empty. My +veil being down in the streets I was recognised by no one. The acting +Governor had arranged to meet me with twenty horsemen, but I had taken +them all quite unawares. The letters forwarded requesting us to make a +halt in the suburbs, and then advance slowly in "holiday costume," for +the sake of effect, had not reached me. However, they had hoisted the +Ottoman flag on the castle, in honour of our expected arrival,--a +compliment that had not before been paid to strangers, and one never +offered at Tripoli. + +Our German friends arrived shortly afterwards, and we all had a very +hospitable reception from Mr. Gagliuffi, with whom we lodged. A few +calls were made upon us in the evening, but we were glad enough to seek +our beds. Next day the chief people of the city, the Kady and other +dignitaries, began early to visit us. When we had exchanged compliments +with them, we went in full European dress to wait on the acting Pasha. +We found him to be a very quiet, unassuming man, who gave us a most kind +and gentlemanlike reception, equal to anything of the kind of Tripoli. +He is a Turk, and recognised me as having been before at Mourzuk. We had +coffee, pipes, and sherbet made of oranges. Afterwards we visited the +Treasurer, who also gave us coffee, and was very civil; and finally +called upon the brother of the Governor of Ghat, who was writing letters +for us to-day. + +I feel in better health than when I left Tripoli. Yet we are all a +little nervous about the climate of Mourzuk, which is situated in a +slight depression of the plain, in a place inclined to be marshy. The +Consul has just recovered from a severe illness. + +We had been, in all, thirty-nine days from Tripoli, a considerable +portion of which time was spent in travelling. This makes a long +journey; but I am told that our camel-drivers should have brought us by +way of Sebha, and thus effected a saving of three or four days. The +greater portion of our sandy journey was unnecessary, and merely +undertaken that these gentlemen might have an opportunity of visiting +their wives and families. + +On a retrospective view of the route from Tripoli to Mourzuk, _via_ +Mizdah, I am inclined to divide the country, for convenience sake, into +a series of zones, or regions. + +1st zone. This includes the sandy flat of the suburbs of the town of +Tripoli, with the date-palm plantations and the sand-hills contiguous. + +2d zone. The mountains, or Tripoline Atlas, embracing the rising ground +with their influence on the northern side, and the olive and fig +plantations, covering the undulating ground on the southern side, where +the Barbary vegetation is seen in all its vigour and variety. This may +also be emphatically called the region of rain. + +3d zone. The limestone hills and broad valleys, gradually assuming the +aridity of the Sahara as you proceed southward, between the town of +Kaleebah and Ghareeah; the olive plantations and corn-fields disappear, +entirely in this tract. + +4th zone. The Hamadah, an immense desert plateau, separating Tripoli +from Fezzan. + +5th zone. The sandy valleys and limestone rocks between El-Hasee and +Es-Shaty, where herbage and trees are found, affording food to numerous +gazelles, hares, and the wadan. + +6th. The sand between Shaty and El-Wady, piled in masses, or heaps, +extending in undulating plains, and occasionally opening in small +valleys with herbage and trees. + +7th. The sandy valleys of El-Wady, covered with forests of date-palms, +through which peep a number of small villages. + +8th. The plateau of Mourzuk, consisting of shallow valleys, ridges of +low sandstone hills, and naked flats, or plains, sometimes of sand, at +others covered with pebbles and small stones. + +All these zones beyond the Atlas are visited by only occasional showers, +or are entirely without rain, the vegetation depending upon irrigation +from wells. I do not go into further detail on this subject, because, +although our line of route was new, this stretch of country is tolerably +well known to the geographical reader. + +I have omitted to mention, or to lay much stress on the fact, that we +were unable to procure sufficient camels at Tripoli to convey our goods +all the way to Mourzuk. We were compelled to leave three camel-loads +behind, in the first place, at Gharian; these were subsequently got on +to Kaleebah, and thence to Mizdah: but there the influence of Izhet +Pasha's circular letter entirely failed to procure for us three extra +camels, and we were compelled to push on to Mourzuk, leaving part of our +goods in the oasis. This circumstance caused me a great deal of +annoyance, both on the route and after our arrival, for it was a long +time before we got in all our baggage. However, it at last arrived, and +the delay only served to illustrate the difficulty of procuring +conveyance in these dismal countries, and to lead us into considerable +expense. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +The Oasis of Fezzan--Population--Ten Districts--Their Denomination and +Condition--Sockna--Honn--Worm of the Natron Lakes--Zoueelah--Mixed +Race--Improvements in Mourzuk--Heavy Ottoman Yoke--Results of the +Census--Amount of Revenue--Military Force--Arab Cavaliers--Barracks--Method +of Recruiting--Turkish System superior to French--Razzias--Population of +Mourzuk--Annual Market--Articles of Traffic--Acting-Governor and his +Coadjutors--Story of a faithless Woman--Transit Duties in Fezzan--Slave +Trade--Sulphur in the Syrtis--Proposed Colony from Malta. + + +The Pashalic of Fezzan, although it occupies a considerable space upon +the map--advancing like a peninsula from the line of Barbary countries +into the Sahara--is in reality a very insignificant province. From all +that I can learn, its entire population does not exceed twenty-six +thousand souls, scattered about in little oases over a vast extent of +country. It is, in fact, a portion of the Sahara, in which fertile +valleys occur a little more frequently than in the other portions. +Immense deserts, sometimes perfectly arid, but at others slightly +sprinkled with herbage, separate these valleys; and are periodically +traversed by caravans, great and small, which in the course of time have +covered the country with a perfect network of tracks. + +Fezzan is divided into ten districts, of which the principal is +El-Hofrah, containing the capital, Mourzuk, and several smaller towns. +It is here and there besprinkled with beautiful gardens, in which are +cultivated, besides the date-palm, several of the choicest fruits that +grow on the coast--as figs, grapes, peaches, pomegranates, and melons. +In these gardens, as in most of the oases of the desert, the fruit trees +that require most protection from the sun are planted between the palms, +which make a kind of roof with their long leaves. Abd-el-Galeel +destroyed many of these groves to punish their owners, refractory to his +authority. + +Two crops are obtained in the year: in the spring, barley and wheat are +reaped; and in the summer and autumn, Indian corn, ghaseb, and other +kinds of grain. All the culture is carried on by means of irrigation, +the water being thrown over the fields by means of runnels of various +dimensions twice in the day; that is, once early in the morning, and +once late in the afternoon until dark. + +Wady Ghudwah is a single town with gardens, and the other features +common to all the Fezzan oases. + +Sebha includes two towns, having a considerable population, with gardens +and date-palms. + +Bouanees includes three towns, well peopled, and has immense numbers of +date-palms. + +El-Jofrah contains the second capital or large town of the pashalic, +Sockna, built of stones and mud, with nine or ten smaller towns, all +tolerably populous. + +Sockna is situated midway between Mourzuk and Tripoli, and is about +fourteen days from the former. The inhabitants are Moors, and, besides +Arabic, speak a Berber dialect. Sockna is celebrated for its fine sweet +dates, called kothraee; and there is abundance of every kind of this +fruit. A considerable quantity of grain is sown--wheat and barley--and +the gardens abound with peaches. The town of Honn, distant about two +hours from this place, is nearly as large, and also surrounded with +gardens. + +Wady Gharby, and Es-Shaty, have already been described. In the sands +between these two places are situated the celebrated natron lakes, in +which that miraculous dud ("worm") spontaneously appears at certain +seasons of the year, and is eaten as people in Europe eat sardines--to +sharpen the appetite. The natron is also a source of profitable +exportation. Wady Sharky almost exactly resembles Wady Gharby, in +population and natural features. + +Sharkeeah, besides some insignificant places, includes the interesting +ancient capital called Zoueelah, whence the name of Zoilah is given by +the Tibboos to all Fezzan. Half the population of this place consists of +Shereefs, and there are indeed great and increasing numbers of this +class of persons throughout the whole country. + +Ghatroun includes, with Tajerby the most southern place of Fezzan, three +small towns. The inhabitants are all black, speaking the Tibbooese and +Bornouese languages, and very little Arabic. The other nine districts +above enumerated contain a mixed race, like the population of Mourzuk; +but some of the northern towns are inhabited by people of purer blood, +with comparatively fair complexions. + +Mourzuk itself, the seat of the Pashalic,--distant about four hundred +and twenty miles from Tripoli, in a straight line, and five hundred, +counting the sinuosities of the road, _via_ Benioleed, Bonjem, and +Sockna,--is a rising town, becoming daily more salubrious by the +improvements made since the residence of the Turks here, and the +subjection of the inhabitants to a more orderly and powerful government +than they had been accustomed to. The British Consul, Mr. Gagliuffi, has +rendered important aid to the administration, in embellishing the +appearance of Mourzuk, and giving it the air and character of a Turkish +city of the coast. Our camel-drivers pretend that it is already superior +to Tripoli. At the Consul's suggestion a colonnade has been built in the +main street, in front of the shops, affording shelter from the fiery +rays of the summer sun, as well as being an agreeable place for the +natives to lounge under and make their purchases. He was also the +principal promoter of the erection of new barracks for the troops, and +the appropriation of a large house as a hospital for the poor. His last +improvement is the plantation of a garden of the choice fruit-trees and +vegetables of the coast; and his example has been imitated by the Bim +Bashaw, commandant of the troops, who is now laying out a garden in a +conspicuous part of the city. + +Since the departure of Abd-el-Galeel with his Arab followers, the Walad +Suleiman, for the neighbourhood of Bornou, the province of Fezzan has +certainly enjoyed profound tranquillity. But on account of heavy +taxation, high customs' dues, and other clogs to free commerce, the +people are sinking deeper and deeper into poverty and wretchedness, and, +except in the capital, there is a general retrograde movement. The +Ottoman yoke is a peculiarly heavy one; it keeps the people in order, +but it crushes them; and perhaps the Fezzanees may now regret somewhat +the wholesome anarchy that distinguished the Arab chieftain's reign. + +As I have said, the entire population of the ten districts of Fezzan is, +according to the last Turkish census, only about twenty-six thousand +souls, of whom about eleven thousand are males, including the children. +The disproportion of the sexes arises in part from the number of female +slaves, in part from the emigration of the men to the commercial +countries of the interior, either for temporary gain, or permanently to +escape from the grinding weight of taxation. + +The whole amount of revenue collected by the Government is estimated at +fifty thousand mahboubs per annum. Twenty-three thousand of these are +raised by direct taxation, whilst the remainder is produced by customs' +dues and the date-palm groves, which are the property of Government. + +The military force by which the Turks hold possession of this vast but +thinly-peopled territory--stretching north and south twenty-one days' +journey, or about three hundred miles--is the very inconsiderable number +of six hundred and thirty men. The garrison of Mourzuk itself consists +of four hundred and thirty men, of whom about one-half are Fezzanees, +twenty or thirty Turks, and the residue Arabs or Moors. The remaining +three hundred are Arab cavaliers, living chiefly on their own means, and +changed every year, who serve as a flying corps, or mounted police, for +all the districts of Fezzan. The rate of pay for this latter class is +one kail of wheat and half a mahboub per month for those who have no +horses, and one kail of dates additional for those who are mounted. This +division, however, is fastidious at present, as all those on service in +Fezzan are now possessed of horses. In the whole regency of Tripoli +there are but six hundred and sixty of these Arab soldiers; but in +Bonjem and the Syrtis they are not cavalry, and the detachment at +Ghadamez is mixed.[3] I am afraid these janissaries are obliged to +commit spoliations in the towns and districts where they are stationed +to avoid starvation. + + [3] The distribution of the corps is as follows:-- + + In Gibel 150 + Fezzan 200 + The Syrtis 150 + Bonjem 60 + Ghadamez 100 + +I visited the barracks of Mourzuk, and found them to be commodious, and +apparently salubrious. The good living of these stationary troops +surprised me. They have meat and excellent soup everyday, with rice and +biscuit. The Fezzanee is never so well fed and well clothed and lodged +as when he is a soldier. Indeed the men seem too well off, in comparison +with their former state and with the rest of the population. +Nevertheless, they are glad to escape when the time of their service +expires. The people all dread being made soldiers: so that Government is +compelled to resort to the most paltry tricks to get recruits. Men are +often unjustly charged with theft or debt, and put in prison, and then +let out as a favour to be enlisted, or sometimes are clapped into the +ranks at once. Youths have been seized as soldiers for kicking up the +dust in front of a sentinel and dirtying his clothes. I remarked the +number of soldiers that were black, and the Bim Bashaw observed that he +hoped the time would come when there would not be a white private left +in Mourzuk. The Turks manage to do with twenty or thirty of their own +people, mostly officers, in this garrison; but, by one method or +another, get as many Fezzanee recruits as they want. + +The Turkish system is vastly superior to the French in this important +matter of garrisoning their possessions in Northern Africa. The latter +require one hundred men where the Turks are content with one to hold the +country. Perhaps one of the chief reasons may be the difference of +religion. The Arabs and other natives of North Africa cannot endure the +sight of a ruler of another faith. Something, however, may be attributed +to the immense and sacred authority of the Ottoman Sultan, the great +chief of the Mussulmans of the East, as the Shereefan Emperor of Morocco +is the chief of the Mussulmans of the West. We may add, also, the +tremendous severity of the Turkish criminal law, or, rather, the +inexorable justice with which a crime committed against a Turkish +functionary is visited. The French make their razzias and strike off +heads enough; but their criminal code in Algeria is perhaps not so +summary and sanguinary as that of the Turks. Possibly one of the chief +reasons of this curious contrast may be the fact that the French soldier +is scarcely to be depended on when isolated. He acts well in masses, but +considers himself deserted and betrayed when left comparatively alone. +At any rate, the fact is that the Turks hold Tripoli with a handful of +men, whilst the French, with a military force nearly as large as the +whole British army, can scarcely maintain a feverish and uncertain +possession of Algeria. + +The population of Mourzuk numbers two thousand souls. It is very much +mixed, and the people vary greatly in colour, so that there is no +general character. There are more women than children, the greater +portion of the females belonging to the members of the great winter +caravans. Contrary to what I had been told, these women seem to be +rather remarkable for modesty and virtue than otherwise. It is worth +observing, that Fatamah, the proper name of Mahomet's daughter, is here +used, by excess of delicacy, to describe the softer sex, more especially +ladies. + +From October to January, as at Ghat, there is a large annual souk, or +market, at Mourzuk. One general caravan comes from Bornou and Soudan, +every year during the winter season, and small bodies of merchants also +go up and down to Soudan in the summer; whilst to Bornou there is no +intermediate trade. Caravans also congregate here from Egypt, Bengazi, +Tripoli, Ghadamez, Ghat, and Tuat. From forty thousand to sixty thousand +Spanish dollars is the value of the merchandise that usually changes +hands during the great mart. The principal articles of traffic from the +interior are slaves, senna, and ivory. This is the first year that a +hundred and fifty cantars of elephants' teeth have been brought from +Bornou; sixty or seventy of these were consigned to one merchant, forty +were on account of the Vizier of Bornou, and the remainder belonged to +Arab traders. This export of elephants' teeth direct _via_ Fezzan has +only lately been opened. Some manufactured cottons are likewise brought +from Soudan, and sell easily in this part of the Sahara, especially +amongst the Tuaricks. Besides, there are exported bullocks' and goats' +skins, and a small quantity of ostrich feathers. The gum trade has +lately been introduced into Fezzan by the British Consul, and one +hundred cantars per annum are already collected from the tholukh-trees. + +The acting Governor of Fezzan always resides at Mourzuk. His principal +coadjutors in the despatch of affairs are a Kady with two secretaries, a +Sheikh or mayor of the city, some respectable men who act as privy +councillors, the Wakeels of Bengazi, Augila, Sokna, &c. + +A little story may find its place here, as an apt illustration of the +state of society and manners in this out-of-the-way capital. A married +woman preferred another man to her husband, and frankly confessed that +her affections had strayed. Her lord, instead of flying into a passion, +and killing her on the spot, thought a moment, and said,-- + +"I will consent to divorce you, if you will promise one thing." + +"What is that?" inquired the delighted wife. + +"You must looloo to me only when I pass on the day of the celebration of +your nuptials with the other man." + +Now it is, the custom for women, under such circumstances, to looloo +(that is, salute with a peculiar cry) any handsome male passer-by. +However, the woman promised, the divorce took place, and the lover was +soon promoted into a second husband. On the day of the wedding, however, +the man who had exacted the promise passed by the camel on which the +bride was riding, and saluted her, as is the custom, with the discharge +of his firelock. Upon this she remembered, and looloed to him. The new +bridegroom, enraged at this marked preference, noticing that she had not +greeted any one else, and thinking possibly that he was playing the part +of a dupe, instantly fell upon his bride and slew her. He had scarcely +done so when the brothers of the woman came up and shot him down; so +that the first husband compassed ample vengeance without endangering +himself in the slightest degree. This is an instance of Arab cunning. + +A subject of considerable importance was brought under my attention at +Mourzuk. It appears that whilst the objects of legitimate commerce, in +being exported from the interior to Fezzan and Tripoli, pay double +duties--that is, twelve and a-half per cent in each place--slaves pay no +transit duty whatever in this regency of Barbary if they are destined +for the Constantinople market, and even if sold in Tripoli or Fezzan +only pay once a duty of ten mahboubs per head. It frequently happens +besides that the Turkish merchants, who embark with their slaves for +Constantinople, sell a considerable number on the way. On arriving at +their destination, they pretend that such as are missing from their +register have died; and in this manner they contrive to evade the +payment of all duty whatever. It has been attempted to get the impost of +ten mahboubs paid in Mourzuk, and likewise to force all the caravans to +take that route. This would have acted as a check upon the slave-trade; +but the influence of the Gadamsee merchants was too great to allow the +measure to be carried out. It is most important that the legitimate +trade should not be burdened with double custom-dues, and it is to be +hoped that the influence of the British Government will be used to bring +about some reform in this matter. We should bear in mind, that as most +of the goods and merchandise passing through Fezzan are only in transit, +they are therefore legally subject to a duty of no more than three per +cent. + +I have paid as much attention to this subject of the encouragement of +the legitimate trade as my time and other occupations would allow me. It +will be as well to make a note here on another point, though it may seem +out of place,--the existence of sulphur in the Syrtis. There appears no +doubt that this substance can be procured at the foot of a mountain +called Gebel Sinoube, about six miles from the sea at the innermost +point of the Syrtis. A considerable quantity is obtained by the Arabs +near this mountain, about eighteen camel-hours south-west from a place +on the coast called Maktar, the eastern limits of the district Syrt. +There is also good sulphur found in the Gebel-Harouj, five or six days +east from Sokna. But what is really the per-centage of pure sulphur on +the rough masses of the mines is not ascertained; nor is the quality +precisely known, except that of the Harouj mountain. Accurate +information could only be procured by despatching a trustworthy Sicilian +miner to make a report. Perhaps these mines could only be brought into +profitable working in the event of the stoppage of a supply from Sicily. +It has been proposed to establish a colony of Maltese at Zafran, on the +shore of the Syrtis. If this idea were carried out, the sulphur mines +might by this means be brought into play. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DIARY OF RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. + +Sickness of Gagliuffi--Baggage left at Mizdah--Runthar Aga--The +Hospital--Various Visits--Arrival of the New Governor--Animated +Scene--Correspondence--Visit Mustapha Agha--Bragging Sheikh Boro--Tibboos +of Tibesty--Curious Country--Presents to Turkish Functionaries--A +Woman divorced--Haj Lameen--Presents expected--Brilliant +Atmosphere--Water-Melons--The Gardens--Winnowing Grain--Houses +of Salt Mud--Nymphs of the Gardens--Wells--Presents to +Functionaries--Phrenology--Queen's Birthday--Walks in the Orchards and +Gardens--Corn-threshing--Kingdom of Aheer--Ass's Head--A Wedding--A +Funeral--Great Dinner--Tibboos--Prepare to depart--The Pilgrim Caravan; +its Privileges--Tuat and the French--Departure of Germans--Wife of +Es-Sfaxee--An Arab Saying--Letters--Disease--Arrival of Escort--Eastern +Consulates--Business--Hateetah--The Son of Shafou--Poor Sheikhs--Hard +Bargain. + + +_May 7th._--We are already busy with preparations for our start to the +interior. Mr. Gagliuffi has written to Ghat to-day for Hateetah and his +escort of Tuaricks. Excitement protects us, perhaps, from the deadly +influence of the climate of Mourzuk. Mr. Gagliuffi is recovering from a +severe attack, and anticipates being obliged to leave for the coast. We +trust he will not be driven from his post whilst we are in Soudan. +However, we must trust to the same Providence that has hitherto watched +over us. + +I am having all our letters of recommendation for the interior copied, +to be sent home to Government, so that if anything happen to us they may +know what kind of support we have received. If anything happen! The +presence of that doubt gives a solemnity and an importance to the most +trifling thing we do. A soldier is allowed to indulge in serious thought +before going into battle, and the chances in his favour are greater than +those in ours. We, too, may have to do battle with men; but the dangers +of the desert are also arrayed against us, and when they are passed, the +miasmas of Central Africa fill the air beyond. + +The marabout, with his camel and burden, has not yet come up; he left us +to visit his country. We are likewise still without news of three +camel-loads left behind at Mizdah. There is always a train of stragglers +behind every caravan that is not huddled together by fear. We should +never have procured beasts enough on the road, and did well to take them +direct from Tripoli. The Pasha's circular letter was of little or no use +in this respect; and, indeed, we could not expect it to cause camels to +start out of the ground. + +_8th._--I paid a visit to the commandant of the troops, Runthar Aga, Bim +Bashaw, quite a Christian Moor; and got information on military affairs +whilst tasting the soup in the kitchen. Also called upon our old friend +the Doctor, and inspected the hospital, which certainly holds out no +temptation to a man to be ill. The patients are few: two have strong +fevers; five or six are convalescent; the sick-list contains no other +cases; but it will be different when summer comes on. + +_9th._--Received a visit from the acting Governor, and presented him +with a bottle of snuff. Like other great men, this Pasha makes a great +consumption of rappee, and empties nearly a box a-day. + +_10th._--The military seem to have taken a fancy to us. Here comes the +Commandant, to return our call, with all the officers of the garrison. +Smiles and courtesy are the order of the day. Dr. Overweg brings out +some of his scientific instruments, and the knowing ones have an +opportunity of showing their ignorance. All passes off well. Mr. +Gagliuffi observes: "You would not have had so much attention paid to +you in Tripoli." Possibly; but this may partly be accounted for by the +rarity of Europeans at Mourzuk. Familiarity has not had time to breed +contempt. + +_11th._--There is excitement in the town. What news? The new acting +Governor, my old acquaintance of Ghadamez, Rais Mustapha, is in sight, +hull above the horizon. We all go out to meet him, and soon see his +_cortege_ breaking between the groves. This is the gayest and most +spirited scene I have witnessed since leaving Tripoli. Mustapha brings +his staff and 200 Arab cavaliers with him, to relieve the Fezzan +irregulars. They make a gallant-looking body of men as they come swiftly +on. All the authorities of the town, with whatever cavalry is already +collected here, pour out of the gates to pay their compliments; and then +come crowds of the lower classes of citizens, with their rude bagpipes, +which scream discordantly. The horsemen galloped hither and thither in +the plain whilst the interview between the great men took place, and +effectually drowned all the polite things that were said by their +trampling and hurrahing. We rode up likewise to welcome the new great +man. Mustapha looked well, was excellently mounted, and dressed almost +like an European officer. He smiled graciously on seeing his old friend +of Ghadamez, and shook me by the hand; he also recognised the Germans, +having seen them at Zaweeah, near Tripoli. Satisfied with this little +interview, we drew aside, and the procession moved towards the gate. +There was instantly a rush of the Arab horsemen, every one trying to get +in front; and as the entry was narrow an obstruction soon took place. We +drew aside, and called out to those who were pressing on to make way for +the Governor. One fellow would not hear; and Mustapha himself riding up, +lashed him with a small whip across the shoulders. Bad taste; but +perhaps excusable in this case, if ever. These lawless soldiery can +never be taught good manners, without which true discipline is +impossible. However, we at length got within the gate, and the +procession poured along the streets, the women _loo-looing_ as we +passed, the bagpipes shrieking louder than ever, the crowd buzzing, the +horses thundering, the cavaliers shouting. In fine, this hubbub carried +us quite back into the regions of civilisation, where men collect on +public occasions often without any real joy, and by mere process of +action and reaction succeed in working themselves up into a state of +boisterous enthusiasm. + +Several days were now chiefly occupied in writing reports on the +progress made by the expedition hitherto; and in voluminous +correspondence on petty, matters--petty, I mean, in themselves, but very +important to us--all connected with our future proceedings. I forwarded +to the Foreign Office a letter addressed by the Sultan Laoul, of the +Tibboos of Bilma, to Mr. Gagliuffi. It appears these people are now +nominally subject to the Ottoman Porte. + +_12th._--We went to pay a visit to Mustapha Agha, my old friend of +Ghadamez. He received us with all the honours--a guard of officers, +pipes, coffee, and sherbet. That important subject of health was a good +deal talked of. Mustapha fears the climate of Fezzan, and finds little +consolation in the doctrines of fatalism. He seemed surprised at the +bulk of the despatches last forwarded from the Consulate, and asked if +we all knew how to write. He cannot understand the necessity of minute +directions. We explained as well as we could; and then talked of the +journeys we had respectively performed. This gave Mustapha an +opportunity of astonishing us in his Turkish way. He said that he had +come with 200 men and 300 camels from Tripoli in sixteen days, having +stopped only one day, and travelled regularly from three in the +afternoon to nine next morning. We marvelled, as in duty bound; but +refrained not from making inquiries; the result of which was, that the +real time was thirty-one days, only eight days less than we had +occupied. We did not scold Mustapha for his exaggeration, but might +perhaps have done so without offence. When a Turk does tell a lie, he +submits to be accused of it with good-humour. + +After leaving the hyperbolical Governor, we went to see Sheikh Mohammed +Boro, Sakontaroua of Aghadez, who has arrived here _en route_ from +Mekka. He was recommended to us by Hassan Pasha of Tripoli; but Mr. +Gagliuffi does not think much of him. We shall see. + +_14th._--Walked in the gardens, and were pleased with their aspect. On +returning, I wrote out the different kinds of dates in this country. We +saw some Egyptian camels with a pilgrim caravan, of a dark and almost +black colour. + +My Fezzanee marabout, by the way, has left Mourzuk, after making me a +present of some cakes and dates of dainty quality. He has been of great +use to me, and I shall remember him with pleasure. + +I had to-day a conversation with a Tibboo of Tibesty. How interesting it +is to talk with the natives of those untrodden countries, to which +chance may some day lead us! He says Tibesty is ten days from Gatroun, +and fourteen from Mourzuk. It is all mountainous, except one long wady +where the population is located. There is no regular town; but all along +the valley the population, which is said to be about 5000, though desert +statistics are little to be credited, is scattered in groups of three or +four, cultivating the ground and tending on the flocks which feed on the +rich herbage, whilst goats scramble for food along the slopes of the +boundary mountains. The people dwell either in huts or in caverns +scooped out of the sides of hills, some of them very extensive. What a +picture of primitive life! Families living separate, not yet driven to +hide behind walls, or congregate in masses for safety. The desert is +their bulwark. This place lies, indeed, far east of the caravan route +from Bornou. There is no road direct eastward from Tibesty, but caravans +can go south-east to Wadai. The valley produces, besides other grain, a +good quantity of ghaseb, which is the principal food of the inhabitants. +Some palms rise here and there in clumps, but are not very productive; +and dates are imported from Fezzan. The tree most frequent is the +tholukh; but there is also another common tree, called the arak. In the +open country, the wadan, the gazelle, and the ostrich are found, and the +people hunt them with dogs. Good water is supplied by wells and streams, +in sufficient quantities to irrigate the fields of ghaseb, wheat, and +barley. Rain is abundant some years, but fails in others; torrents are +continually descending from the mountains: one stream flows through a +space of two days' journey. If these accounts be correct, the country +must be one of the most interesting in Africa. They say, that on account +the height of the mountains some of the inhabitants do not see the moon +for fifteen days together. A Sultan rules paternally in this +out-of-the-way country, where the Mohammedan religion reigns paramount. +My informant made me pay three Tunisian piastres and two common +handkerchiefs for a vocabulary of the language of the Tibboos of +Tibesty. A visit to this singular oasis might repay a hardy traveller; +but the people of the country have a faithless character, and it would +be dangerous to trust to their promises of protection. + +The Tibesty Tibboos must not be confounded with the Tibboos of the +salt-mines of Bilma, who have recently made their submission to the +Porte. There is little connexion between the people, although they speak +a similar language. The Bilma Tibboos lie in the direct route to Bornou, +and were fully studied by the Denham and Clapperton expedition. + +_15th._--Continue to prepare papers to send home. Report the fact, that +the functionaries of Mourzuk trade in slaves. + +_16th._--I had lent Mustapha a sword; but, after keeping it a night, he +was obliged to return it, sending word that a firman had been written to +all the functionaries of the Porte, forbidding them to receive any +presents,--an excellent measure, doing credit to the Sultan's +administration. The great plague of the East is the system of bribery +carried on under the form of presents. The pay of the Pasha is six +hundred and fifty mahboubs per month, nearly all spent in the town. + +_17th._--The weather is extremely hot and sultry. The sun burns the +umbrella if you pass for a few minutes under it. Even the natives +complain of the extreme heat of the weather. + +_18th._--Not quite so oppressive; but, as Dr. Barth says, the south wind +blows throughout Northern Africa in May. + +_20th._--This morning, the black who came with us, and had two wives, +divorced one of them, returning the woman's dowry of thirty-seven +Tunisian piastres. The divorce took place before the Kady in the open +streets. + +_21st._--Haj Lameen came to see me. He does not forget to remind us that +the Tuaricks expect many presents. I have no doubt they do. He says we +must be generous at all the following places:--Ghat, Aheer, Aghadez, +Damerghou, Zinder, Minyou, Tesaouah, Kashna, Kanou, Sakkatou, Bornou, +Begharmi, Mandara, and to the Tibboos of Bilma; not to mention the +intermediate towns and villages. However, if the presents be valuable, +we may expect in some places rations of food in return. It is worthy of +remark, that this said Haj Lameen, brother of the governor of Ghat, took +an oath during the past year that he would never again purchase slaves. +This is a remarkable instance of the progress of opinion. I afterwards +gave Lameen a present, consisting of one pound of tea, five pounds of +coffee, and four heads of loaf sugar. This was the first considerable +present I made. In the evening we observed Mercury in conjunction with +Venus. The heavens were unusually bright for Mourzuk. We saw also +Jupiter's satellites at seven in the evening. The two upper ones were +much nearer than the two lower ones to the great planet, but all in a +line. Mars was very bright. The rings, or extinct volcanoes of the moon, +were also truly transparent this evening. Usually the sky of Mourzuk is +charged with a dirty red haze, and not at all favourable to astronomical +observations. + +_21st._--The culture of water-melons is progressing for the summer +season. The melons are planted in the irrigation ducts that lead to the +squares of clover, which is cultivated at this season for the horses of +the cavalry stationed here, and also for the camels of the merchants. +Every fifteen or twenty days a fresh crop is ready, all produced by +irrigation. + +The fig-tree is found frequently in the gardens of Fezzan, and when +planted near a well, produces as fine fruit as those on the coast. The +rich green of its leaves is very refreshing to the eye. During the +present season, however, the greater portion of the gardens is devoted +to onion-raising. Whole fields are covered with this vegetable. Parsley +is running to seed. The korna is also seen in the suburbs. Few birds +visit the gardens of Fezzan, which are all planted with palms. One or +two groves have been recently added, and are distinguished as the "new +trees." The irrigated beds are covered with palm-shoots, the curving +fan-like leaves bending prettily over the ground. + +The winnowing of grain is conducted in the most slovenly manner. The +ripe ears with the dry stalks are thrown on the sand, and then +half-a-dozen donkeys are driven over them--an animated threshing +machine. The grain, of course, mixes with the sand, and is separated +from it with considerable loss and waste of time. + +The sandy soil of the gardens is sometimes mixed with a large quantity +of salt, which gives it a firm consistence. Of this soil the houses of +the city are built. Rain would melt them; but this blessing never cools +the scorching atmosphere of Mourzuk.[4] + + [4] Showers of rain are subsequently mentioned, however; and it + is a mistake to suppose that the hard blocks of fossil-salt + mixed with earth, of which the houses in the oases of + Northern Africa are often built, can be so easily melted + down.--ED. + +In this day's agricultural and horticultural walk I fell in with the +nymphs of the gardens; or, in other words, the washerwomen of Mourzuk. +They come out constantly to the wells, when the irrigation is going on, +early in the morning or late in the evening, and thus take advantage of +the supply of water raised. They are all dark women of the city, for the +most part unlovely and very dirty in appearance, despite their +occupation. Their system of washing is the primitive one practised by +the labouring classes all over the north of Africa. They roll up the +clothes into a round flat heap, and then with their heels keep up a +continual round of treading, using for soap a peculiar sort of clay. +Some of the girls are very impudent and immodest when a stranger passes +by; but as a rule they are not so. The wells at Mourzuk are not all +good; some are fresh, others salt. In many places will be found a well +of very sweet, delicious water; and running nearly to the surface, at +twenty paces distant from it, are found others really quite salt. The +same phenomenon has been observed at Siwah, in the Libyan desert. + +One of our party received a present this morning of some fresh and most +delicious leghma. A good deal is drunk in Mourzuk, in an acrid state, +for the purposes of intoxication. + +In the evening I went to see the acting Pasha, with the Consul. He +received us with his usual urbanity, and gave coffee and lemonade twice. +He mentioned the things which a functionary of government was permitted +to receive as presents,--viz., two sheep, twelve pounds and a half of +butter, fifty eggs, and two fowls. This to be received once only from a +friend. But some of the functionaries say they can receive a cantar of +butter, if divided into sufficiently small quantities, and spread over +several days. + +People all admire the clock I purchased for the Sultan of Sakkatou, to +give him instead of the chronometer. When it strikes the hours, I tell +them it speaks various languages, at which they are greatly astonished. + +Yesterday evening, a shower of bats made their appearance at dusk. + +_22d._--I went with Dr. Overweg to visit the Pilgrims. We had previously +examined the head of one of them phrenologically. The news had been +spread in the tents, and the whole troop came to have their craniums +studied on our arrival amongst them. This science--if such it can be +called--tickles the fancies of people hereabouts, being suited to their +capacity. One fellow wished to know from his head whether he should gain +much money this year. They looked upon the matter as a species of +fortune-telling. + +_23d._--The Pilgrims' heads must have itched all night. Here they are +again to have them handled! All the polls in Mourzuk will probably pass +under our hands if this goes on. It is singular that the pilgrimage to +Mekka has not nourished sufficient fanaticism to prevent these good +people from allowing an infidel doctor to make free with their crowns, +and expatiate on their passions and propensities. There is no +calculating on the strength of the impulse of curiosity. + +_24th._--The Queen's birthday. At eight o'clock Mr. Gagliuffi fired a +musket, and hoisted the British jack and pennant over the Consulate. At +noon, fifty-one discharges of muskets and matchlocks announced the +auspicious event to the natives of this city, and to the Tibboos, +Tuaricks, Soudanese, Bornouese, and all other strangers of the Sahara +and Central Africa. In the evening, the Consul gave a dinner to us +travellers and to the Pasha and his officers. The healths of her +Majesty, the Sultan, and the King of Prussia, were drunk in champagne +with enthusiasm. There were thirty or forty dishes on the table, and +among them a turkey, the first ever killed in this city. Mr. Gagliuffi +had recently brought a cock and hen from Tripoli. A small saloon was +decorated with banners and cotton-stuffs of Soudan, with various +devices. Amongst these were a small portrait of her Majesty; an Ottoman +blood-red flag, with its crescent and star; and a white flag with the +Prussian black eagle. The effect was excellent, and quite astonished the +natives. The Turks ate and drank famously, and for the most part got +"elevated." When in this state it was curious to see them clawing at the +viands, utterly forgetful of Eastern gravity and decorum. I must +observe, however, that Mustapha Bey himself and one other officer +declined to drink wine. The Turks seem very tolerant to one another in +this respect. It is left as a matter for the decision of every man's +individual conscience. These sensible people do not think that, because +a man is inclined to be an ascetic himself, he is bound to force all +other people to be so likewise. + +_25th._--I took a walk in the gardens this evening, and came upon two or +three small circular orchards, having within the circle simply room for +holding water, like a shallow pond, with fruit-trees, vines, fig-trees, +and pomegranates clustering around. These orchards, when thus formed +close by the well-side, are very luxuriant. People now begin to sow +ghaseb, ghafouly, dra, and such grains, which are reaped in the summer +season. Barley and wheat are sown in autumn or winter, and reaped in +spring. As I walked I noticed that the sky was darkly overcast, as if +threatening rain; and presently, sure enough, a few precious drops fell +on the thirsty sandy soil! + +I observed a new plant, large, with broad and smooth thick velvety +leaves, but omitted to write down the name. It produces a milky juice, +with which the people dye the palms of their hands, instead of with +henna. The plant has a disagreeable odour, and every appearance of being +poisonous; but they say it is not so, being only bitter in taste. + +_26th._--In my morning's walk I had the coolest weather experienced +since our arrival at Mourzuk. The wind was from the north-east and the +sky much overcast. It actually rained,--a slight shower of ten minutes' +duration. How gratefully the trees seemed to spread their leaves to +catch the pleasing drops! The gardens and groves all wore a happy smile. +We hear, that lately a great deal of rain has fallen in the Ghat +district, and on the route to Aheer. + +The people are preparing to thresh their corn, and I was interested in +observing all the details of their process. They had scattered yesterday +evening the full ripe grain in its dry stalks over the ground, in the +form of a large circle, to the depth of about two inches; and had then +smoothed the sand all around in small ridges, so that if a thief came +during the night they might observe his footmarks. They thresh out the +grain by means of four or five asses or camels tied abreast, and driven +round and round over this primitive floor. Great waste is occasioned by +allowing the grain to mix with and sink in the sand; the task of +winnowing is most difficult afterwards. + +_27th._--This day I had some conversation with Boro, the Sheikh of +Aghadez, about the country and localities of Aheer,--a Saharan kingdom +never yet explored, and which we intend to traverse on our circuitous +route across the desert. It appears that Aheer is the general name of +the whole cluster of towns and districts; that Aghadez is the medineh, +or city; and that Asouty is a town on the line of the caravan route to +Soudan,--a regular halting-place. Asben and Asbenouah are other names +given to this same territory, and do not denote other countries. The +Tibboos and Bornouese describe the whole territory of Fezzan as Zoilah, +a name derived from that of the ancient capital, Zoueelah. These double +names have hitherto caused great confusion in laying down unvisited +places in the desert. If we can penetrate and explore the kingdom of +Aheer or Asben, it will be doing a great service to geography. + +_28th._--I am studying rural life in the neighbourhood of Mourzuk, as if +it were to be my occupation. Scarcely a day passes that I do not escape +from the crowded town and wander, either morning or evening, into the +gardens, the groves, and the fields. The water raised by rude machinery +from the wells is always dancing along in little runnels. The chattering +of women crosses my path right and left. Groups of labourers or +gardeners occur frequently. A man this day valued a date-palm at a +mahboub, and I am told that the greater number are not worth more than a +shilling of English money. To avert the evil eye from the gardens, the +people put up the head of an ass, or some portion of the bones of that +animal. The same superstition prevails in all the oases that stud the +north of Africa, from Egypt to the Atlantic, but the people are +unwilling to explain what especial virtue there exists in an ass's +skull. We go sometimes to shoot doves in the gardens; but these birds +are very shy, and after the first shot fly from tree to tree and keep +out of range. So we stroll about making observations, to console +ourselves for the loss of sport. We noticed several cotton-bushes, but +this useful plant is not cultivated here except that it may ornament the +gardens with its green. I have just eaten of the heart of the date-tree. +It is of a very delicious bitter, and is a choice dish at feasts. + +I met with a number of the suburban inhabitants engaged in celebrating a +wedding. First came a group of women, dancing and throwing themselves +into a variety of slow, languid, and lascivious postures, to the sound +of some very primitive string-instrument. Towards this group all the +women of the neighbouring huts were gathering, some merely as +spectators, others bringing dishes of meat. Beyond was a crowd of men, +among whom was the bridegroom helping the musicians to make a noise. +These musicians were an old man and old woman, each above ninety years +of age. The latter beat a calabash with a stick, whilst the former drew +a bow over a single string tied to another calabash. The bridegroom had +got hold of a brass kettle, with which he supplied his contribution to +the din. Preparations for supper were going on; and, the harmony +announcing this fact, idlers were coming in flocks from the distant +hamlets and the fields. Two new huts had been built, one for the bride +and the other for the bridegroom. + +These marriages produce very few children, which may partly arise from +licentiousness, but chiefly, no doubt, from misery. I afterwards saw the +burial of an old lady, which ceremony set the whole town in motion. The +women screamed in crowds, and a great number of men went outside the +walls to see the body consigned to its last resting-place. Yusuf +pretends that the burial took place two hours after decease, which is +the ordinary practice here, although thirty-two hours are said to be the +proper time. + +To the 21st of May I was occupied in preparing a short report on Fezzan, +with statements of the expedition and other necessary documents. + +We have had a grand dinner at the house of the Greek doctor Paniotti. +The Bey, Bim Bashaw, his adjutant, the treasurer, and others were +invited. The French have boasted of the number of their dishes, but I +think the Turks beat them hollow in this particular. Besides two whole +lambs, fowls, pigeons, there were at least twenty made dishes, with +every variety of rich sweetmeat. Amongst the early fruits of the season +we had figs and apples. The dinner was not quite so merry as +Gagliuffi's, the champagne being absent. + +We had a smart rain-shower in the morning, and in the evening also there +was a tempest of wind and lightning, and a little rain. The flashes were +very vivid, and lighted up the whole firmament. + +The Tibboos persist in saying that there is plenty of water in their +country, abundance of rain, frequent springs; and some go so far as to +describe their streams as running a distance of from one to eight days' +journey. They acknowledge, however, that the soil of their country is +not very favourable to much cultivation of grain and fruit. Perhaps they +want to attract visitors, but are not likely to succeed at present. +Justly or unjustly, they bear a very bad character; and in Mourzuk, to +call a man a Tibboo is rather worse than to call a man a Jew in Europe. + +_June 1st_, Post-day.--Letters, private and public, were forwarded. It +is now determined that we shall start for Ghat next Wednesday; at any +rate the Germans talk of doing so, whilst I am inclined to wait for +Hateetah and his escort. It would be imprudent to run the risk of a +disaster at this early stage of our proceedings, and my greater +responsibility renders me more cautious, and perhaps more timid, than my +enthusiastic companions. I am engaged in finishing my last despatches +and reports, collecting Arabic descriptions of Fezzan, one of which is +by the Bash Kateb, and corresponding on the future expenditure of the +Mission. The weather has become very hot with the advancing season, but +I am now pretty well used to the heat. The thermometer has risen to +103 deg.; in Bornou it rarely exceeds 105 deg.: I may hope, therefore, to brave +the sun's rays under or near the line. + +Few incidents worth recording mark the latter days of our stay at +Mourzuk. I paid a visit to Abd-el-Kader, the Sheikh of the Pilgrims. +This holy person is quite humanized, and talks freely of the politics of +the Barbary coast. He entertained myself, the German, the Greek doctor, +and Gagliuffi with tea; and this at _sunset_, when all the other +pilgrims were at their prayers. He is a Tuatee of Gharai, and has been +many times to Mekka in his present capacity. Indeed he makes the journey +about once every three years. The pilgrim caravans travel very fast; no +others can keep up with them. On leaving any place where they have +halted, the Sheikh has the privilege of demanding the release of two or +three prisoners; and the scandalous whisper that any Barabbas can +sometimes obtain his liberty by a judicious investment of presents. When +encamped near a town, moreover, the tent of the Sheikh becomes an +inviolable asylum for every criminal who chooses to take refuge there. +Many other privileges equally valuable are enjoyed by this functionary. +Abd-el-Kader himself is an extremely urbane gentleman, and we retired +quite satisfied with our reception. He gave me a vocabulary of the +Tuatee dialect, and some account of the statistics of the place, which I +forwarded to the Foreign Office. It appears that formerly the people of +Tuat paid to the Algerines five hundred camel-loads of dates and ten +_necks_ of gold, i.e. the gold ornaments sometimes worn round the +camels' necks. When the French made their conquest, they sent to the +Tuatees to renew their tribute to them as the actual masters of Algeria. +The answer returned was, "Come and take the tribute!" + +_11th._--The gardens continue to attract my evening strolls. Every one +is now busy sowing ghaseb, and I passed a half hour in working with some +cheerful labourers at the preparation of the ground, smoothing the soil +in the squares for irrigation. They were amused at my voluntary +industry. I sleep now late of mornings after my evening exercise in the +gardens, and find myself the better for it. + +Perhaps the first melons ever eaten at Mourzuk appeared on Mr. +Gagliuffi's table about this time; they were very good. + +_12th._--The Germans were preparing to start early in the morning; they +are obliged to lighten everything, and reduce each camel load to two and +a-half, or even two cantars. The Tuaricks will not carry more; generally +their maharees are small, and they have few stray camels. The Germans +went off in good style and great spirits. They propose to accompany a +caravan of Tanelkum Tuaricks, who go by way of Aroukeen, leaving Ghat +far on the right. I was not able to persuade them to delay their +departure, so that we might all travel together: but it may be expected +that they will not find it so very easy or safe to get through this +country without the special protection of those who claim authority over +it. + +Two or three days of gheblee succeeded--unpleasant weather to be out in +the desert. I found it bad enough at Mourzuk--100 deg. in the shade at four +o'clock in the afternoon. Hateetah was reported to be on the road; so I +determined to wait five or six days for him, and thus not deviate from +my original plan. + +I went to visit the wife of Mohammed Es-Sfaxee, who goes with us to +Soudan as a merchant, carrying a considerable quantity of goods on +account of M. Gagliuffi: this gentleman accompanied me. The object of +our visit was to see whether the Sfaxee had left a sufficient quantity +of provisions with his wife to support her during his absence. It is +necessary to take such precautions with these Moors, who often +barbarously abandon their families, without any adequate provision, for +months and even for years together. We found that he had left dates, +wheat, and a little olive-oil and mutton-fat--the ordinary stock of all +families in Fezzan. Only a few rich people indulge in such luxuries as +coffee, sugar, meat, and liquid butter. + +An Arab saying: "You must always put other people's things on your head, +and your own under your arm. Then, if there be danger of the things +falling off your head, you must raise your arm, and let fall your own +things to save those of others." I do not know what things I shall let +fall of my own; but this I know, that during my whole residence in +Mourzuk my mind has been continually occupied in endeavouring to save +Government money. But I have received little assistance. + +The weather still continues hot, with wind from the south: however, I +walked in the gardens. On the 16th, the boat went off to the caravan; +the camels carried it very easily, to the astonishment of the good +people of Mourzuk. On the 17th, the thermometer was at 102 deg. in the +shade--in the sun, about 130 deg.. We received letters in answer to those +first written from Mourzuk, and learned that all the despatches written +on the road for Tripoli had arrived in safety. The Arabs, therefore, are +not quite so bad as they are represented. + +_20th._--At length Hateetah may be said to be reported "in sight," and +we are busy preparing for departure. The escort has arrived at Tesaoua, +and will be here on Saturday at latest. As the Germans are still at +Tuggerter, we shall proceed on the Ghat route together, after all: it +will be a tough piece of work, whichever way performed. The heat +continues intense--from 100 deg. to 104 deg., and 130 deg. in the sun. Cooler +weather is expected in August; but at present all the natives complain, +and fevers are becoming prevalent. In the desert we shall escape that +danger; for disease comes only in the moist depression of the plateau on +which Mourzuk stands. We hear talk, by the way, of a fine new +route--only forty days--just opened, from Ghat to Timbuctoo, across the +deserts of Haghar. The present Sultan of the Haghar Tuaricks is called +Ghamama. + +One of our party, who undertook to accompany us to take the management +of the boat, has not proved equal to the occasion; and I have therefore +written to Tripoli, to request that two Moorish sailors, of Jerbah if +possible, should be sent up by the direct route to Bornou. I had almost +engaged a very excellent person at Tripoli, the captain of the vessel in +which I arrived; but when he called at the Consulate on the subject, +some minor official ordered him off with a contemptuous "Barra! barra!" +and he accordingly yielded to the solicitations of his crew and embarked +without seeing me. There is too much of this self-sufficiency and +off-handedness in all Consulates in the Levant, where a grain of +authority is apt at once to magnify a man, in his own estimation, into a +mighty potentate. I regret my Jerbine captain very much; he originally +volunteered to accompany us, and entered into my plans with an +enthusiasm and intelligence rare among Muslims. + +These small details of our expedition are interesting to me to record, +though probably many will think them superfluous. Perhaps they will +serve to give a true idea of the magnitude of the undertaking, and of +the great responsibility which weighed upon me, and thus prove an +anticipatory excuse for any accusation of shortcoming or dilatoriness +that may be preferred against me. I will not, however, enter further +into the business-details of the expedition--merely observing that, +among other things to which I had to attend during my stay in Mourzuk, +were, in the first place, to collect provisions and stores for a journey +that may last two years; secondly, to purchase presents for the princes +and other distinguished persons of the interior; and thirdly, to provide +against the casualties of the journey, payment of salaries, &c. All +these things I had to do on my own responsibility. Among other things, I +have purchased from Mr. Gagliuffi an Arab gun and pair of pistols, +inlaid with silver and curiously wrought, for the sum of 180 mahboubs. +This is for a present to the Sheikh of Bornou, who will expect something +pleasing to the eye as well as the boat, which he may at first, perhaps, +not appreciate at its full value. + +I have already made a good many casual allusions to our plans and +arrangements; but it will be necessary here, before our departure from +the last city that acknowledges the Ottoman authority, to make a brief +statement of our position and prospects. Things that already appear +clear to me may not be so to others. During my former visit to Ghat, +when I travelled as a private individual, known as "Yak[=o]b," I made +acquaintance with Hateetah, a Tuarick Sheikh, who had assumed the title +of Consul of the English. It is the custom in that country for every +stranger on his arrival to put himself under the protection of one of +the head men, to whom alone he makes presents, and who answers for his +safety. Mr. Gagliuffi had written to him to come with an escort to +protect our party as far as Ghat. It appears, however, that very grand +accounts had circulated in the Sahara on the magnitude and importance of +our mission; so that it was impossible for one Sheikh to monopolise us. +Hateetah, therefore, had come, accompanied by two sons of Shafou, the +nominal Sultan of all the Tuaricks of Ghat. Wataitee, the elder of the +two, is very plausible, and undertakes to accompany us as far as Aheer. +It is to be observed, that the Tuaricks of this place have hitherto +never ventured to come to Mourzuk; and it is considered wonderful that +they have come for the first time at the summons of infidels. + +My first plan was, to proceed by the direct route to Aroukeen with the +Germans and the Tanelkums, and from this place make an indispensable +expedition to Ghat. But circumstances compel me to march direct to that +place by the common road. Our escort is to cost us dear, but it will +ensure our safety. These Ghat Tuaricks, however great they may talk in +their own country, are really very poor; they subsist almost entirely on +the custom-dues levied on caravans. Wataitee himself said, "I am the son +of the Sultan, it is true; but I have nothing. If I stay in my country, +I do not feel my necessities much; but if I must escort you to Aheer, +then I must be well-clothed and fed, or else the people will say, +'Behold the son of Shafou, how poor and miserable he is!'" Besides +paying about two hundred Spanish dollars for the escort, I have had to +feed all the people, and furnish them with tents. They had led me to +expect much more reasonable treatment; but there is no help, and I feel +that I am not yet at the end of my troubles of this description. With +these prefatory remarks, I enter upon an account of my departure from +Mourzuk for the oasis of Ghat. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Wars in the Interior--Anticipated Disputes--Mr. Boro of Aghadez--Our +Treatment at Mourzuk--Mustapha Bey--Start for Ghat--Row with the +Escort--Fine Weather--Leave Tesaoua--Sharaba--Travelling in the +Heat--Hateetah and the Germans--The Camels--Snakes--Journey +continued--Nature of the Country--Complete Desert--Rain--Overtake +the Caravan--Interview with Boro--Pool of Ailouah--The +Tanelkums--Halt--Birds--Bir Engleez--Wind in the Desert--Begging +Escort--Brilliant Heavens--News from Ghat--The Pilgrims +again--Bas-relief of Talazaghe--Moved over the +Desert--Mountains--Extraordinary Pass--Central Table-land of Fezzan. + + +Hateetah has brought stirring intelligence: the Sultan of Bornou is at +war with his brother. Ten thousand Tuaricks of Aheer have gone against +the Walad Suleiman; and, taking advantage of the opportunity, the +Tuaricks of Timbuctoo are marching from the other direction to fall upon +their brethren of Aheer. Quarrels of kites and crows!--Yes, to those at +a distance; but it is too much to hope that our caravan will prove a +lark's nest in some Saharan battle-field. We must pray that a general +peace shall be proclaimed in Central Africa during our march across the +desert. + +However, we must not be frightened by rumours, and, indeed, are not. We +pass from discussion of this warlike intelligence to bargain with +Hateetah, who, as I have hinted, seems inclined to play the Jew, or +rather--to speak in character--the Tibboo with us. It will cost a large +sum to pass through Ghat, and obtain an escort to Aheer. As a +consolation, we learn that we are to be persecuted by Boro Sakontaroua, +sheikh of Aghadez, who is displeased that he has received no presents +from us. It would appear that the letters of Hassan Pasha rather +compromised us to employ him as our escort; but I am not responsible for +this, having never deviated from the original plan of procuring an +escort from Ghat. Indeed, I wrote to that effect immediately on my +arrival in Tripoli; and it would not do, after keeping my friends in the +oasis in a turmoil all this while, to disappoint them. The desert has +its etiquette as well as the drawing-room, and infringements might be +rather more dangerous here. + +The new acting Pasha has made the Tuaricks a present of some burnouses. +This, whilst lessening perhaps the comparative value of what we have +given, at any rate lays the chief under some obligations to the Turks, +and assists in making up a good round sum in payment for the trouble of +coming all the way from Ghat to Mourzuk to escort us. + +By the way, Mr. Boro of Aghadez has been fetched back from his +encampment at Tesaoua by a man on horseback. The business was of some +consequence, according to the notions of these people. He had sold a +female slave, and the poor woman was now found to be _enceinte_ by +Boro's son, with whom she had been living as concubine. The law soon +despatched the affair, and compelled the Sheikh to restore the +purchase-money and take back his slave. + +A last observation on Mourzuk, before leaving it behind in this Saharan +navigation. All the Ottoman authorities have treated us with attention +and respect. Mr. Gagliuffi has been hospitable, and the people generally +have proved courteous in their behaviour. It is rare to remain so long +in a place and have so few causes of complaint. Justice, however, +compels me to say, that the British Consul sometimes remembered too +vividly that he was also a merchant, and a Levantine merchant to boot. I +am afraid he is not quite satisfied even with the profits he has already +made out of the expedition. Is it possible, however, for Easterns, or +people who live in the East, to look upon a Government as anything but a +milch cow? Mustapha Bey, who took a very affectionate leave of me, is +now engaged in examining a tremendous case of peculation--something like +a defalcation of two thousand mahboubs. He is quite bewildered for the +time. The Greek doctor came to see us off; but we started in a little +confusion, for Mr. Yusuf Moknee was drunk, as he was nearly all the time +of our stay at Mourzuk. + +I left Mourzuk on the 25th of June, late in the evening, and proceeding +until midnight, stopped at a little cluster of palms, with two or three +inhabitants, called Thurgan. Then rising at daylight, and starting at +once, I passed Om-el-Hamam, and reached Tesaoua about nine in the +evening. I found that the Germans and the Tanelkums had gone on in +advance some days, but not so fast that we could not hope to overtake +them. The hurry and bustle attendant on the preparations for starting +has rendered me rather indisposed; I was quite unwell on the 27th. Next +day, however, I could receive Hateetah and the son of Shafou, and have a +civil row with them. I had to ask them whether they would travel by +night, and what they would agree to do if any one fell sick. To the +first question they promptly answered "No, they would not;" but to the +second, that in case any one was very ill indeed, they would wait a +little for him, or travel in the night. I said that this was not exactly +what I wanted, and that in case of sickness the expedition must be +stopped. They recommended me to go to Ghat, and there remain twenty days +until the great heat had passed, allowing the Tanelkums to go on. This +advice is worth reflection: but perhaps we may not suffer so much from +the heat as I anticipate. We came to a tolerable understanding, and it +was at length agreed that we should start on the 29th. + +The weather is now cool, the wind often blowing _round_ in the course of +the day; it rarely blows _through_, as at sea. On the way from Mourzuk +we had hot and cold blasts together; but now we are out in the desert, +we find the climate much more temperate than in the city. I hope and +pray that I shall be able to bear up against the heat. + +What a magnificent sky we had last night!--never did I behold the stars +in greater glory. The Scorpion was brilliant, if not fierce; and the +constellation on his right shone splendidly. At about eight o'clock +Jupiter was setting towards the horizon like a sun! + +_29th._--We left Tesaoua at length, at three in the afternoon. The boat +and our servants had gone on before with the Tuaricks, who prefer not +travelling in the dark, if possible. We can often start after them in +this way, and catch them up by pushing on some hours after sunset. Our +course lay south this evening. The heavens, before the rising of the +moon, had a most luminous appearance; Jupiter was seen only about an +hour above the horizon, and the Milky Way was very conspicuous, but at +eight o'clock described only a small segment in the heavens. + +We reached Sharaba at eight, and halted. This is a sandy valley, with +herbage for the camels; the water, not very good, is a few feet from the +surface, and issues from some rocks. There are no date-palms about the +well, as reported, but a few stunted ones are found a mile or two higher +up. The surface of the desert is broken into small mounds, crowned with +the ethel-tree. + +Sunday, the 30th, was a cool day for the desert, yet sufficiently hot +for me. We left Sharaba at a quarter past six in the morning, and made a +good day of nine hours. These confounded Tuaricks will travel in the +heat, and encamp in the cool. At three in the afternoon, just as the +weather was becoming quite fresh and pleasant, we halted. The wind, +occasionally strong, blew from the north-east, whilst our course lay +south-west, across a broad valley. The sandy ground is covered with the +tholukh-tree, which affords a grateful shade in the season. This valley +is very broad here, only one side being visible at once to the eye. + +The Tuaricks are growing civil enough, and companionable. Luckily +Hateetah and the son of Shafou do not drink coffee or tea--a saving. +Hateetah, however, is always begging; he says he will go to Aheer, and +appears to consider his escort indispensable. According to him, the +Germans, who are pushing on ahead, run great danger. Yusuf tells me that +he is, in reality, extremely angry with my companions for proceeding +alone. He wishes, perhaps, to get a present from them too; and swears +that he knows nobody but Yak[=o]b (my desert name). They are not +English, he says, but French. Besides, they have got twenty camel-loads +of goods, which he will seize if they do not pay him something. Of +course this is all harmless bluster, and means nothing. He confesses +that, being on Fezzanee ground, he has really no claim upon caravans at +all; but he is a greedy old rascal, and would take any advantage he +could. The same gentleman says that Sakonteroua is only a chicken in his +own country--quite powerless; if this be the case, his enmity is not of +so much consequence as I feared. + +The camels of the Tuaricks usually go well, and make good hours, because +they are not allowed to eat on the road. They all march in strings, one +being tied behind the other; each string is led on by servants or +slaves. Thus, when once loaded, there is little difficulty on the way. +When seen at a distance, they resemble a moving mass of troops, +especially when the mirage multiplies their long files. _Our_ camels, +however, being all Arab camels, cannot be made to go in strings, and are +always staring about for something whereon to browse. + +I begin to feel better in health. If we could but encamp for three or +four hours during the heat of the day, I have no doubt I should get on +well enough. There was talk of serpents to-day; I saw none on this +route, however. People at Mourzuk are occasionally bitten by lefas and +scorpions, and death ensues often. Ammonia has been tried with success +as a cure. + +_July 1st._--We were astir at the encampment a little after daybreak: +but it takes usually two hours to get off, although we have but seven +camels. I hope our people will be quicker after a little more practice. +The heat was very troublesome; and nothing could keep the Tuaricks from +going on all through the day, for ten hours and a quarter, without +stopping. Our course was along the broad wady, which resembles an +immense plain. On the surface of its sandy bed are scattered pebbles and +blocks of sandstone and limestone, but the former chiefly. There was +nothing to please the eye but the delicate tints of the line of +sand-hills on the left--a faint yellow, at times mingling with the sky +when very luminous; and the round tholukh-trees, scattered like black +spots on the light sand of the valley. A little mirage figured a dark, +black lake, which, however, sparkled with light under the trees. Few +animals were seen: a young camel, left to graze in the valley, followed +us most cheerfully this morning. + +We passed two or three wells in the course of the day, at a place called +Kouwana, with water near the surface, and obtained some by scraping out +the sand; we did not, however, take any up, because it was not very +good. Caravans seldom use these wells. No doubt there is water to be +found everywhere throughout the wady, which by a little care might be +turned into an oasis. Perhaps it was one in old times. There is now no +encouragement to cultivate any stubborn ground. + +_July 2._--Two hours in getting off again! We started at six and went on +until past five in the afternoon, following a south-west course along +the same wady, with the same low line of sand-hills on our left, and +sand and the low edge of the plateau, which the people say extends many +days' journey, on our left. This valley is so shallow that it might +almost be considered as part of the plateau, and is, in fact, nearly on +a level with it; the temperature tells us we are on very high land. It +is cool for this season, and the Tuaricks even complain of chilliness at +night. Sometimes I am disposed to think the hot weather is passed, but +we must take into account the strong breeze blowing from the north-east. + +The broad bed of the valley is covered with pebbles of sandstone, +between which glanced a few, very few, lizards. Rarely did any living +thing cheer our eyes as we moved along this dismal track. Now and then +gazelles, in threes and fours, went scouring away far out of reach. One +or two small birds fluttered from stone to stone; and some crows cawed +at us from a distance. This is true Fezzan scenery. The mirage and all +its illusions cloaked the plain in various directions, as if seeking to +hide its dull uniformity. + +However, this desolate region has really been of late visited by rain, +as we had been told. We encamped towards evening near a great standing +pool, which, if the weather remain moderate, will supply the caravans +for months to come. A shower is a vulgar occurrence in Europe, received +by most men, except agriculturists, as an annoyance. In the desert it +has all the value of a heaven-sent gift. It is shed not periodically; +but at intervals of time and place suddenly descends in copious +drenchings. We often came upon spots which had been ploughed up as by a +torrent from the skies; and few rocks in the Sahara are without +water-marks. The rain-water at our camping-ground has an excellent +flavour, and I drank of it eagerly. + +Round this pool we at length found the caravan waiting for us to come +up. The Germans and all others were well, except the Sfaxee, troubled +with a little fever. Mourzuk is a bad place to break down the health and +spirits, and those that became faint-hearted there would probably have +persevered had they got out into the bracing air of the desert. The +Tuaricks are very quiet. I sent word to Hateetah that it was impossible +for him to take presents from the Germans, as it was contrary to the +orders of Government. Shafou's son is very mild and circumspect. + +Here also was Mohammed Boro, and although I had written strongly to +Tripoli about him, I considered it advisable after all, immediately on +arriving, to try and make friends with him. So I paid him a visit, and +told him that when the Tuaricks had conducted us to Aheer we should, of +course, place ourselves under his protection, that we might proceed to +Sakkatou. I sent him, also, some hamsah and dates. This gladdened him +much, for he is very short of provisions, and has many servants with +him; amongst the rest, two or three female slaves, one of whom, a fat, +buxom girl, must require prodigious nourishment. + +When the pool of Ailouah is not filled by rain-water, recourse is had to +a well near at hand, which supplies sufficient quantities. How important +are wells in the desert, and how one learns to mark their existence! + +The valley which we have been traversing three days from Sharaba to +Ailouah is called Barjouj, and is remarkable for the tholukh-trees, +which are scattered here and there throughout its whole extent. We are +now seven days from Ghat, and, about the same distance from Aroukeen; +but the Tanelkums, who go slowly, make thirteen days between this and +Aroukeen. They go direct, as we intended to do, without touching at +Ghat. Our movements are not exactly free, but we must not seem to notice +this circumstance; and if they insist on our taking the route by the +capital, in order to have an opportunity of increased plunder, must give +in with as good grace as possible. + +The 2d and 3d of July we stopped at Ailouah. Hateetah came to my tent +the first day with a long face, and said, as I foresaw, that we must all +go to Ghat, and abide the pleasure of the Tuaricks; also that we must +wait for the return of a caravan from Aheer. I protested against this +latter pretence, and he got up and went off in a pet. Next morning I +sent word to his tent that I could not stay at Ghat an indefinite +period; that my means would not allow me; and, therefore, that we must +still protest against this arrangement. He answered, that he would +assemble all the notables of Ghat and ask their counsel. To this I could +have no objection, and we are friends again. But I keep as far from the +Tuaricks as I can, and do not visit them. I find this to be the best +policy. We feed them every night, and they are apparently contented. The +weather continues cool, the wind being always partly from the north. + +Many birds, crows and others, pretty large, were seen about the wells of +Ailouah; and a rival sportsman to Dr. Overweg appeared in the person of +Mohammed et-Tunisee. He shot three small fowls of Carthage, one of which +he gave me, I promising him a little powder in return when we came to +Ghat. We noticed a small black bird with a white throat. But all through +this desert we listen in vain for some songster. There is no reason for +merriment in these dismal solitudes. + +Our people have dug a well, which the Tanelkums promise to call "Bir +Engleez,"--the English Well. Good water was found easily, near the +surface at this station. + +_4th._--We started late, and made only a short day; but herbage for the +camels is only found hereabouts. Our course was, as usual, south-west +over an undulating plateau, with an horizon now near, now distant. The +surface of the ground was for the most part blackened sand, stone +pebbles, and some blocks of very bad stone. The weather continues, fresh +and pleasant. We did not feel the heat until some time after noon; and +as we halted early at Ghamoud, suffered nothing. The wind--which we +notice as if on ship-board--now comes always from the east, generally +with a point north. It seems to be a sort of trade-wind throughout this +portion of the desert. I begin now to read on the camel's back, and find +this a pleasing relief from the jog-trot monotony of the movement. I am +anxious to read the whole of the Bible in Hebrew on the camel's back. +Our friends the lizards were still glancing along the ground in the +bright sunshine, but in diminished numbers. + +Hateetah is always begging, and now asks for burnouses for the Ghat +Sheikhs, Khanouhen, Jabour, Berka, and his brother. He still pretends +that the Germans must give him a present, and that he knows no one but +the English. In compliment, and to soothe him, I said, "You must dress +in all your fine clothes at Ghat." This awakened his vanity, and he +seemed delighted with the idea. His reply was, "You also must one day +dress in all your best clothes--one day--only one day." I replied, "I +have no fine clothes;" at which he seemed puzzled. Turning the +conversation, he said I must change all his Tunisian piastres into +dollars; which I shall certainly not do. This Consul of the English is a +tremendously grasping fellow. + +The Tanelkums all give the son of Shafou a good character. We parted +with them this morning. They take some loads of dates for us, and have +gone to Aroukeen, where they will wait for us six days, and then leave +us; that is, if we do not come up. They will be twelve days, they say, +on their journey. We go by a different route to Ghat, and shall see but +not enter Serdalous. This place is now thickly inhabited by Tuaricks, +and Hateetah does not wish to come in contact with them, for fear of +exciting their curiosity and cupidity. So he is a knowing old dog after +all. Our Tuaricks are displeased that the Germans have encamped so far +from us this evening. The ground is a narrow slip of wady stretching +east and west, almost on a level with the plateau. There is a little +hasheesh (grass), with two or three young tholukh-trees. Venus shone +with uncommon splendour this evening, eclipsing all the majesty of +Jupiter. We are looking out for the Southern Cross, and think we see it +just emerging above the horizon ahead. In the day, the heavens have of +late been hazy. + +They tell us, that on leaving Ghat we shall _descend_ to Soudan; yet we +can not have reached very high ground. We may soon likewise expect to +feel the influence of the Soudan rains, and find the atmosphere much +cooler in consequence. How the days are shortening now, and how grateful +darkness gradually expands its dominions over this arid, scorching +waste, as we move south! + +On Friday the 5th we only advanced two hours, to a place called +Talazaghee,--a small picturesque wady, where, during the season of rain, +there are always two or three pools of good water; there is also now a +little herbage for the camels. During our ride we met a small slave +caravan, and learned the important intelligence that there are several +people of the Sultan En-Noor of Aheer at present at Ghat with slaves. +This will be useful to us. I wrote to my wife and others by this +opportunity, and trust the missives will reach their destination. The +weather is cool and pleasant to-day; and we are led to hope that the +great heat of summer is already past. The wind followed exactly behind +us as we pursued our south-west course. On arriving we found, rather to +our surprise, the pilgrim caravan, and our old friend Abd-el-Kader. They +have been some time reposing in Wady Gharby collecting provisions, and, +I imagine, passing their leisure hours with the Fezzanee ladies, which +they could not very well do in Mourzuk. The morality of these people is +easy enough, and no doubt the pilgrimage covers a multitude of sins. + +Talazaghee is remarkable for some bas-reliefs cut on the naked sandstone +rocks of the wady, in a very peculiar style; the principal tableau, if I +may so call it, about four feet by three in size, is a battle between +two persons, one having a bird's head, and the other a bullock's, with a +bullock between them taking part in the fray. Each person is holding a +shield or bow. The sculptures are mere outline, but deeply graved and +well shaped. There are several other tableaux, representing animals, but +chiefly bullocks. This would seem to intimate, that in the days when +these forms of animals were chiselled bullocks were the animals employed +for the transport of men and merchandise over the desert. No camels +occur, as in other tablets. These sculptures are very properly said by +our escort to be neither Arab nor Tuarick, but belong to the people that +existed before these races. The principal tableau has a very Egyptian +look about it; the oxen are well formed, and would do credit to a modern +artist. There is one bas-relief figure of an ox with its neck in a +circle, as if representing some of the games of the Circus. The other +animals most distinctly seen are ostriches; the rocks around are, +besides, covered with Tuarick characters, but nothing interesting. + +We started late on the 6th, for the Tuaricks had allowed their camels to +stray, and we waited some time for them: however, we were obliged, after +all, to start without them, and having made five hours and a half +halted. Our course had lain over the plateau, which about half way +became broken up into valleys. One of these, called Anan Haghaneen, led +us into the pleasant and picturesque wady of Mana Samatanee, where only +in this part of the route can be found herbage for camels. There are +also a few tholukh-trees. What a desolate region is all this, despite +the little spots of vegetation! There are no signs of animal life, +except traces of the wadan. For two days, they tell us, we are to have +little or no water. Now and then we pass desert mosques,--square, or +circular, or cross-shaped walls of stone, some with two entrances, built +for the devotion of chance passengers. The mountains on the east are +called El Magheelaghen. To-day we carried my trunk with the money. Yusuf +had previously given it in charge to a camel-driver, and the Tuaricks +were always uneasy, asking to see if all were right. Europeans would +probably have done the same under similar circumstances. + +On the 7th we made a good day of about eleven hours, continuing during +the first three in shallow wadys, down one of which we had a distant +view of the plain of Serdalous, on the north-west. Then came the +breaking up of the great plateau of Fezzan, and we entered a pass which +leads down into the subjacent Sahara, and runs west with an inclination +to the south. This is, perhaps, one of the most extraordinary natural +features I have ever beheld. It seems to have been purposely cut out of +the solid rock for the use of man, and reminds one at first of a railway +excavation. As we advance it assumes the form of a cave, slightly open +at top,--narrow, winding, and furnished with seats on either hand. A dim +light comes from above. Only one part was difficult for the boat. Now +and then the pass became quite a tunnel, but the concave roof is high +enough for any camel to pass. On the sides, here and there, were Tuarick +inscriptions; but there was nothing remarkable revealed by this +admirable geological section. It was mostly sandstone for the upper +strata, with narrow streaks of marl and chalk. Some slate was observed, +and frequently our way lay over beds of red clay. An agreeable surprise +awaited us occasionally, in the shape of little openings containing +groups of the tholukh; but the general aspect of the pass was horrible +and desolate, and we eagerly pushed on towards the end. There was +nothing, apparently, to support life; but we found and caught a young +fox: how the little wretch procured food was a mystery which our guides +could not explain. However, life no doubt had its joys for him, and we +let him loose in the plain below. I also picked up a dead bird, of a +species common in the desert, with white head or cap, and white tail, +except the upper feathers; all the rest, legs and bill, black. It is +about the size of a lark, but has a head like a blackbird. We supposed +the one found had died from want of water, though it may have been +killed by the mother of the young fox. + +On emerging from the pass at length we found a considerable change of +level, and having advanced a little way turned back and obtained a +splendid view of the walls of the plateau, which stretched on both sides +above the plain, and thrust out lofty bluff promontories, as into the +sea. The upper lines of some of them were perfectly straight, as if +levelled by artificial means. We came to a solitary rock on the plain, +containing excavations that seemed to be the work of men. Here, we were +told, Dr. Oudney once stopped and breakfasted. + +We have now a pretty correct idea of the great central table-land of +Fezzan. It is an elevation, not quite clearly marked to the eye on some +of its northern approaches, but dropping sheer to the plain at other +parts. Mourzuk is situated in a sandy depression on its surface, which +would probably be turned into a salt lake if there were sufficient rain. +The limits of the hollow, as of that of many others--Wady Atbah for +example--are not noticed by the traveller. Whether he approaches or +leaves Mourzuk, he seems still to be traversing a level plain, and only +finds his mistake by noticing the change in the nature of the ground, +the presence of marshes, of green vegetation, and of a heavy, stifling +atmosphere. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Plain of Taeeta--Fezzan Boundary--Fossils--Tuarick Behaviour--Valley of +Tabea--Observations--Fasting--Tuarick Habits--Scorpions and +Locusts--Visitors--Heat--Roads--Hot Wind--Pass of Abulaghlagh--The +Palace of Demons--Wheat hid in the Desert--Land of Demons--Kasar +Janoon--A dear Camel--Visit to the Kasar--Perilous Adventure of Dr. +Barth. + + +On the 8th we pursued our course over the monotonous undulating plain of +Taeeta, to which we had descended. It was a little hotter, because lower +than yesterday; and the country is more parched, more arid, more +desolate, than ever. No herbage for camels is found in these parts, and +we had been compelled to carry some with us from Wady Haghaneen, and to +wake up with dates, of which the camels ate voraciously as a treat. +Beetles and lizards were the only living things we saw. + +Next day, the 9th, we rose before sunrise and made a good day of nine +hours, still over the same plain of Taeeta. About three hours before we +reached the well of Tabea we crossed the real boundaries of the Fezzanee +territory, although the Tuaricks seem to claim the pass on the mountains +as their own. The weather was hot, there being no wind. On these +occasions the afternoons are very oppressive, and the sun causes his +power to be unpleasantly felt until an hour before sunset. + +From the plain to-day we had a view of the Ghat mountains, which seem at +a distance to present different forms and characters from the high lands +on the edge of the plateau of Mourzuk. The bed of the undulating plain +of Taeeta is covered with pebbles and blocks, of both sand and +limestone. Yesterday I picked up some fossils of the star-fish--the +fixed star-fish, having branches by which it holds to the bottom of the +sea. Some fossils of vegetables were also found. Two or three hours +before reaching the well we descended rapidly into a broad, deep wady, +where were the recent marks of a waterflow. The camels all went well, +ours faster than the Targhee; but these latter, not being allowed to +stray, always make, as a rule, better and more regular journeys. + +The Tuaricks themselves are getting more civil. Hateetah already enters +into the idea of a treaty of amity and commerce: he says he will fix the +amount the English merchants are to pay when they attend the mart of +Ghat. The son of Shafou is always represented as a very good fellow; he +is growing more and more civil and companionable. This evening I gave +him a small pair of good scissors, which much delighted him. As for the +other Tuaricks, Hateetah excepted, I make it a rule to refuse what they +ask, otherwise I should be annoyed every day with their importunities. +Hateetah says we must lodge at Ghat with Haj Ahmed, the governor, +outside of the town, to be out of the way of the begging Tuaricks. He +adds, "Always keep the door shut, and when any one calls out for +permission to enter say 'Babo,'--(No one at home!)" + +The Germans, like myself, find the fatigue too great to enable them to +continue their observations and writings with regularity. We must not be +extravagant of our health and strength at this early period of our +expedition. + +The valley of Tabea is a pleasant place, having herbage for the camels +in abundance, as is the case wherever the ethel-tree is found. There are +several wells with water near the surface, and others might no doubt be +dug all over the wady. Our encampment looked picturesque this evening. +It is the eve of Ramadhan, and our people fired shots here and there to +celebrate the occasion. + +_10th._--A halt was arranged for this day. I took the opportunity to +wash and change all my clothes, which I do every three or four days, if +possible. Mr. Hateetah, however, would not allow me to carry on my +domestic arrangements in peace. He came grumbling as usual, wanting +scissors, razors, &c. I cannot fill this craving abyss to the brim. Our +people fast to-day; but to-morrow, probably, they will not, as the law +does not require them to do so when actually travelling. + +I have left Doctors Barth and Overweg to take the compass-direction of +this route. To do this when with them would be useless for me, but when +I leave them I must then do all the work I can. Now, it would be only +accumulating on my shoulders useless labour. Besides, they will always +do this kind of thing much better than myself. The same observation +applies to the thermometer. It would be well, however, if I practised +taking observations with them. But we are all sufficiently worked, and +can assist one another but little in these matters. + +The wind has been variable for the last three days,--in the evening, +generally N.E. In the afternoon it begins to move round, until it blows +from all the points of the compass. To-day we have hot wind or gusts of +wind. It has been very hot, 105 deg. Fahrenheit under the tent. + +Our people suffer much from their fasting. But the Tuaricks do not fast, +and seem to look with scorn upon the Moors and blacks for doing so. +Yusuf says _he_ shall not fast when he in _en route_. A camel has broken +down on the road, and it is found necessary to kill it, to prevent its +dying. Hateetah has given out his decree for its sale. The Tuaricks are +to purchase half and we half of the carcase, at ten reals, or fifty +Tunisian piastres. Of our five reals the Germans take one and a half, +and the Sfaxee a half. This will make it lighter for me. Our people made +a regular feast of the camel's flesh, some of them sitting up and +gorging till midnight. Their noise did not disturb me, for I had slept a +good deal in the day. + +I had done very little indeed but sleep and lie down. We felt the heat +severely at noon. A gust of hot wind nearly carried away our tent. + +The Tuaricks use spoons, and do not eat with their hands like the Arabs +and Turks; but the latter pretend that the Tuaricks never wash their +hands at all, whilst they, before and after eating, always take this +precaution. In saluting, the Tuaricks do not spread out the fingers much +when they raise their hand, but present the palm and fingers +outstretched to you. One of these gentlemen, whom I call the noisy one, +has got a poor little slave-boy, about seven years of age, who works +like a man, and goes quite naked. + +To-day I found a young scorpion in the canvass-case of my writing-desk; +he cocked his tail in a hostile attitude, as if daring any one to touch +him. In his tail seems to be all his power, and so of all the scorpion +host. Yesterday was taken a locust: this destructive insect is not bred +in the desert. In this bare and thirsty region there is nothing for the +young ones to eat, and the old ones likewise would soon perish in the +Sahara. They are bred in the cultivated fields near the desert, or in +the fertile lands of the coast, as in the neighbourhood of Mogador, +where millions of the young have been seen, like so many small green +buds of trees. + +Dr. Overweg made an excursion to the Ghat mountains, or rather the +smaller hills or offshoots from the range. He found them sandstone, but +very singularly formed or broken into huge blocks--some like the masses +which I saw on the route from Ghadamez to Ghat, with a very narrow base, +on which they might turn as on a pivot. + +_11th._--We stopped here another day. We were to have started in the +afternoon, but the Tuaricks had some visitors come to see them, and +detained us for their own comfort and amusement. I am not sorry for it, +as we have had a tremendous gheblee. All the day I felt it extremely +hot, and so have all the people. I was obliged to lie down on the floor +of my tent nearly all day; but I have so arranged my table that I put my +head under it, which gives additional and most important protection from +the sun. All these little expedients must be resorted to in travelling +over the desert, and may sometimes save a man's life. It is surprising +what protection a piece of cloth or linen, or a piece of board, in +addition to the tent, will give against the intensity of the sun's +fierce rays. The Moors and blacks of the coast seem to suffer as much as +the Europeans. + +There are two ways from this wady to Ghat--a difficult, and an easy but +longer one. I and the Germans go, with Hateetah and Shafou, the +difficult one; and we leave the heavy luggage and the caravan to go the +easy route. This, at least, is the arrangement talked of this evening. +The morrow may bring something new. + +The Tuaricks who arrived to-day expected a supper: Hateetah sent to the +Germans to find them one; the Germans referred them to Moknee; and we +provided. + +We must take care we do not have too many customers of this sort, or we +shall never get up to Aheer with the present stock of provisions. + +To call the wind under which we are suffering _gheblee_, is a perfect +misnomer; for the hot wind of to-day and yesterday came directly from +the _north_, "Bahree!" As Yusuf said, however, when I told him where the +wind was from: "Where now is the sea? It is a long way from the sea." + +The thermometer was 106 deg. Fahrenheit in the shade of the ethel to-day. We +shall rarely have it much hotter than this. In Bornou there is rarely +more than 104 deg. in the shade. + +_13th._--Saturday.[5] The morning is advancing and the Tuaricks are not +yet moving. These Azgher are sad lazy dogs. It appears they have changed +their minds, and we are all to go the long and easy way. The sun is +rising in haze with a little wind. The heavens now are frequently +concealed by vapour. Yesterday we had clouds in abundance, often +shrouding the sun--a wonder for the desert in this season! + + [5] The 12th is missed, and Dr. Richardson notes in his journal + that the date is to be rectified backwards; but he does not + say where the rectification is to begin--ED. + +We started rather late, about seven A.M., but made a long day, +continuing till sunset, or twelve hours. Our course was north-north-west +for three or four hours, on the plain towards Serdalous, and then +entered the pass of Abulaghlagh; which, though represented as plain and +smooth as the hand by Hateetah, was sufficiently difficult and rocky for +the boat-laden camels. The beginning of the pass was remarkable for a +number of curiously-formed sandstone rocks, several of them swinging or +resting on a small base like a pivot, and others cleft asunder, as +straightly and clearly as if cut by a knife. Our course along the pass +was west, but when well through it we turned round southwards towards +Ghat. + +Immediately on clearing the pass we saw the celebrated Kasar Janoon, or +Palace of the Demons; of and concerning which the people had been +talking all day: we had then the range of hills or mountains to our +left, and some sand-hills on our right. Dr. Overweg at once discovered +we were in a new region, or zone. The mountains on the left are composed +of slate-marl, and not sandstone, as before stated by myself and Dr. +Oudney. Overweg considers them of a very peculiar character and is +delighted with their castle-like and battlemented shapes. But we shall +have much to say of these marl-slate mountains, coloured so beautifully, +and looking nobly to the eye. + +Before entering the pass of Abulaghlagh, Hateetah hid some of his wheat +under the rocks to lighten his camels. I joked him, and told him I knew +his hiding-place, and would return and fetch the wheat. All over these +hills things are hidden, and often money, which is sometimes lost for +ever, the owner dying without pointing out his hiding-place. There was +no herbage for camels to-night, but we had brought a little hasheesh +with us. A strong wind set in towards evening and continued nearly all +night, preventing us from sleeping. We were much exhausted by our day's +march, and so were all our animals; they suffer much from these long +stretches. We gave them dates, as we give horses corn. + +_14th._--We rose before daylight, and got off by sunrise, continuing +till about two hours after noon. The wind was so exceedingly strong, +blowing from the south-east, that we did not feel the heat of the sun. +But now and then we had strong gusts of hot wind, like the breath of a +furnace. I tied a thin dark cotton handkerchief over my eyes, and found +great relief. + +Our course is now south, over a high sandy plain. We are at length +fairly in the Land of Demons, as the country of the Ghat Tuaricks is +called by themselves. All around, the mountains take castellated forms, +and high over all rises the Kasar Janoon, Palace or Citadel of the Ginn: +a huge square mass of rock, said to be a day in circuit, and bristling +with turret-pinnacles, some of which must be seven hundred feet in +height. Nothing but its magnitude can convince the eye at a distance +that it is not a work raised by human hands, and shattered by time or +warfare. Its vast disrupted walls tower gigantically over the plain. +Here, as in another Pandemonium, the spirits of the desert collect from +places distant thousands of miles, for the purpose of debate or prayer. +It is a mosque as well as a hall of council, and a thesaurus to boot, +for unimaginable treasures are buried in its caverns. Poor people love +to forge wealthy neighbours for themselves. No Tuarick will venture to +explore these Titanic dwellings, for, according to old compact, the +tribes of all these parts have agreed to abstain from impertinent +curiosity, on condition of receiving advice and assistance from the +spirit-inhabitants of their country. In my former visit I nearly lost my +life in an attempt to explore it and was supposed to have been misled by +mocking-spirits: little did I think that this superstition was about to +receive another confirmation. + +The Kasar Janoon, and all the mountains around, were wrapped this day in +haze, but loomed gigantically through. We proceeded, still in sight of +this enchanted castle, over the plain, which was perfectly bare and +arid, until we arrived at Wady Atoulah, where we found the beneficent +ethel and some good pickings for the camels. Not pausing long here, we +proceeded another hour, and encamped in Wady Tahala, just in front of +the imposing Kasar, and full in view of the mountains of Wareerat to the +east. + +The camels suffered much during the day's march. The Tuaricks had +another knocked up, and we two,--that of the blacks and one which I had +purchased of Mr. Gagliuffi. The latter could not bring his load, and we +were obliged to relieve him of all his burden; a great disappointment to +me, for I bought the animal as a strong one, to go up to Soudan. It was +a dear bargain, in comparison with the other camels which I purchased in +Mourzuk,--costing thirty-eight mahboubs and a half. I must recover the +money, and cannot allow Government to lose it. All our other camels came +on well, even those which cost me much less. The other is still behind +whilst I write: it is an old, worn-out, black Egyptian camel, and cost +only eighteen dollars. + +I did not feel so much exhausted to-day as usual. I always take tea and +coffee on encamping, which restores my senses at least, and does me much +good generally. I dissolve mastic with the water during the hot hours, +and to-day drank at least three pints, but ate little. + +The well is east from our encampment two hours, and under the mountains. +There is encamped the Sfaxee, who went by the more difficult route, to +arrive at Ghat before us; but it seems he will be disappointed. He +came by the pass by which I returned formerly from Ghat to +Mourzuk,--certainly too difficult and narrow for the transport of the +boat. + +_15th._--I rose early, and marched about three hours and a half to the +well, under the Kasar Janoon; that is to say, four or five miles along +the base of the eastern wall of the Kasar. But this day's adventures +deserve more particular chronicle. + +The Germans had determined to go and examine the Kasar, and were about +to start just as I came out of my tent. They had had some altercation +with Hateetah, because, partly for superstitious reasons, he would not +give them a guide, and they had made up their minds to undertake the +exploration alone. I saw Dr. Barth going off somewhat stiffly by +himself; Dr. Overweg came to where I was standing, and asked Amankee, my +Soudan servant, about the well near the Kasar, and then also went off. +He said to me, "I shall boil the water on the highest point, and then go +along the top to the other end." He was taking some points of the Kasar +with the compass, and I observed to him, "Take the eastern point." Then +he started. Yusuf called out after him, "Take a camel with you, it is +very distant." Distressed at seeing them go alone, I told Amankee that +if he would follow I would give him a present. He agreed, upon the +condition that he should not be expected to ascent the Kasar; for he +feared the Janoon. We then gave him dates, biscuits, and a skin of +water, and he started after Dr. Overweg. I confess I had my fears about +them. On arriving near the well, we pitched tent near an immense +spreading old ethel, which afforded us some shade. I watched the +changing aspect of the Kasar nearly all the time of our three hours' +ride; and could not help thinking that the more it was examined the more +marvellous did it appear. I then looked out to recognise the place where +I was lost four years ago, and at last I thought I could distinguish the +locality. The day wore on. It blew gales of hot wind. No Germans +appeared, although it had been told them that we should only stop during +the hot hours of the day. However, I anticipated that they would not +arrive before sunset. Hateetah sent word, that as there was little water +he should not move on till to-morrow. This was good news for the +Germans. + +At last, about five o'clock P.M., Dr. Overweg appeared. He had +experienced great thirst and fatigue; but, having the assistance of +Amankee, he got back safe. He at once confessed his fears for Dr. Barth. +I began to think this gentleman must either have gone to Ghat, or that +some accident had befallen him. Soon, indeed, we began to have gloomy +apprehensions, and to talk seriously of a search. The Tuaricks were not +very civil, and Hateetah threw all the responsibility of the safety of +my fellow-travellers on me. Dr. Overweg and several people went out in +search of Dr. Barth just before sunset. + +Night closed in; no appearance of our friend. I hoisted a lamp on the +top of the ethel, and made large fires as the sun went down, in hopes +that their glare might be seen at a distance from the Kasar. Our +servants returned without Dr. Overweg. He had promised to be back by +sunset, and I began to fear some accident had befallen him likewise. + +The evening grew late, and Hateetah came to me, in a very nervous state, +to inquire after the Germans. I endeavoured to compose him by telling +him the responsibility was on us, and not on him. Dr. Overweg returned +at midnight. He had thrown into the desert various pieces of paper, on +which was written the direction of our encampment from the Kasar. We +were very uneasy, and slept little, as may be imagined; but before we +retired for the night Hateetah arranged a general search for the +morning. + +Next morning, accordingly, at daybreak (16th), the search was commenced, +by two camels scouring the environs of the desert. Dr. Overweg went with +one of the parties, but returned at noon, bringing no news of Dr. Barth. +Amankee with his party had, however, seen his footsteps towards the +north. This was most important, as it directed our attention that way, +and we thought no more of his having gone to Ghat. We now calculated +that our companion had been twenty-four hours without a drop of water, a +gale of hot wind blowing all the time! Dr. Overweg proposed to me that +we should offer a considerable reward, as the last effort. He mentioned +twenty, but I increased the sum to fifty dollars. This set them all to +work, and a Tuarick with a maharee volunteered to search. I found it +necessary, however, to give him two dollars for going, besides the +proffered reward; he left at two P.M., and all the people were sent off +by Hateetah a couple of hours after him. + +This was a dreadfully exciting day. I confess, that as the afternoon +wore on I had given up nearly all hope, and continued the search merely +as a matter of duty. Few will be able to imagine the anguish of losing a +friend under such circumstances in the wide desert, where you may for +ever remain uncertain how he came by his death, whether by the spear of +a bandit, the claws of a wild beast, or by that still more deadly enemy, +thirst. Just before sunset I was preparing fresh fires as a last resort, +when I saw one of our blacks, the little Mahadee, running eagerly +towards the encampment. Good news was in his very step. I hastened to +meet him. He brought the joyful intelligence that Dr. Barth had been +found, still alive, and even able to speak! The Tuarick whom I had +despatched, in scouring the country with his maharee, had found him +about eight miles from the camp, lying on the ground, unable to move. +For twenty-four hours he had remained in the same position, perfectly +exhausted with heat and fatigue. Our fires had not been unmarked by him, +but they only served to show that we were doing our best to find him. He +could not move a step towards them. On seeing his deliverers, he could +just muster strength to say, "Water, water!" He had finished the small +supply he had taken with him the day before at noon, and had from that +time suffered the most horrible tortures from thirst. He had even drunk +his own blood! Twenty-eight hours, without water in the Sahara! Our +people could scarcely at first credit that he was alive; for their +saying is, that no one can live more than twelve hours when lost in the +desert during the heats of summer. + +Dr. Barth was now brought back to the camp. He had still a supply of +biscuit and dates with him; but eating only aggravates the torture of +thirst. Moist food is fitter to carry on such occasions. We found rum +very useful in restoring his health. + +_17th._--The Doctor, being of robust constitution, was well enough this +day to mount his camel, and proceed with the caravan. We advanced about +seven hours, and then encamped. To-morrow, a ride of a couple of hours +will take us into Ghat. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Approach Ghat--Description of the Town--The Oasis--Reminiscences of a +former Visit--Azgher Tuaricks--The Governor--Political Authority--The +Sheikhs--Protection of Strangers--The Litham--Business--Reception--Meetings +of Sheikhs--Disputes--Tax on liberated Slaves--Extortion practised on +us--Discussion on the Treaty--Scramble for Presents--Haj Ahmed +disinterested--Hateetah plays double--More Presents and further +Annoyances--Mahommed Kafa--Escort of Kailouees--A Visit from Ouweek and +the Bandit of Ghadamez--Observations on the Treaty--Collection of +Dialogues--The Great Exhibition. + + +We were up early on the morning of the 18th, and prepared to make our +official approach to the town of Ghat, which was now distant only two +hours. I had already visited the place, and was familiar with its +aspect; but must introduce a few words of description for the sake of +the reader of the present narrative. Ghat is situated on the spur of a +lofty hill, which overlooks it from the north. It is surrounded by +miserable walls not more than ten feet high, pierced by six weak gates. +The houses are not whitewashed, like those of Moorish towns, but retain +the dirty hue of the unburnt brick and mud with which they are built. A +single minaret worthy the name, and one large building used as a general +lodging-house, rise above the flat roofs of the rest of the town. Some +few palm-trees bend gracefully here and there; but, in general, the +groves of the oasis are a little distant from the walls. There is a +suburb of some fifty houses of stone and mud; and a number of huts, made +of straw and palm-branches. The whole oasis is not more than three miles +in extent; the gardens produce only a little wheat, barley, and ghaseb, +with some few kinds of fruit. Good water is supplied by wells; but all +the palm vegetation is stunted. + +From the hill that overlooks the town, a fine view is to be obtained of +the little oasis and the vast extent of desert that encircles it on +every side. Far to the south wave in the air the summits of the +palm-groves of Berket, on the way to Aheer. To the west, hills and +ridges succeed one another to the horizon; and to the east, above a line +of glittering sand-hills, rises the unbroken wall of the Wareerat +range--the rampart thrown up by the demons to protect their favourite +Tuaricks from the inroads of the conqueror. The contrast of the bright +green of the oasis with the stony waste beyond is striking; and when the +sun sheds its bright rays over the scene, it may really be called +beautiful. + +But these are reminiscences. This day, as soon as we saw the town +appearing over the trees between the rocks, we hailed it with delight; +not, however, as the termination, but as the starting-point of a +journey. Beyond, southward, everything to us was unknown, and, we +believed, to all Europeans. Every step further, then, promised to be a +discovery. Should we be allowed to proceed unmolested? Would no +obstacle, natural or artificial, intervene? Much would depend on our +reception in Ghat. On my former visit I had not, on the whole, reason to +complain of the Sheikhs of the Tuaricks, whose chief place this is. I +remembered the venerable Shafou, the dashing Khanouhen, with Jabour, and +all the others, from whom I had received what might be called kindness. +Hateetah, it is true, had hitherto somewhat disappointed me; and I know +that great expectation had been already aroused in this little secluded +territory of profit to be made out of my mission. Whether I should be +able to meet all demands was a serious question with me. I am pleased to +say that the Governor's son came out to meet us, and conduct us to the +housed of his father, who, with several of the notables of Ghat, were +assembled, and gave us, in truth, a cordial reception. + +It may be as well to remind the reader that Ghat is a small town which +has grown up in the territory of the Azgher Tuaricks, in consequence of +the convenience of the place as a station for the caravans from Soudan +Proper, and other points of Central Africa. It is inhabited principally +by people of Moorish origin, but mixed and known as Ghateen. Haj Ahmed, +the governor, is also a Moor, born at Tuat. He is a marabout, or saint, +but is looked up to by the people for the settlement of all municipal +concerns. The Ghateen derive their subsistence almost entirely from the +caravans, although their little oasis is not unfertile. + +But the political authority of the country resides entirely in the hands +of the Azgher Tuaricks. Azgher is the name of the tribe or nation, and +Tuarick is a generic title, which scarcely implies even community of +origin, assumed by nearly all the wandering people of the Sahara. There +are the Haghar Tuaricks, to the west of Ghat and south-west towards +Timbuctoo; and the corresponding people of Aheer are called the Kailouee +Tuaricks. At Timbuctoo itself are found the Sorghau Tuaricks. + +The chief of the Tuaricks of Ghat is nominally the venerable Shafou, +whose son came with Hateetah to escort me from Mourzuk; but the virtual +sultanship resides in Khanouhen, the heir-apparent, or son of Shafou's +sister: for this is the order of succession in Ghat. Every Tuarick, +however, is in some sort a chief, and more or less influence is acquired +by age or personal qualities. The principal men have divided the sources +of emolument which the peculiar position of their country supplies them +with. Hateetah claims to afford protection to all private English +travellers, and to receive presents from them; another patronises the +inhabitants of Tripoli, a third those of Soudan, and so on. This +arrangement enables a visitor to the place to calculate with some +certainty about the amount of obligation he incurs. All the Tuaricks are +easily distinguished by their habit of wearing a litham, or muffler, +with which they conceal their mouths and all the lower part of their +face. This custom gives them a strangely mysterious appearance. + +The house of Haj Ahmed, the governor, to which we were conducted, is +situated three parts of a mile from the town, which I did not enter +during my stay. It would not have done to expose myself to the familiar +impudence of the people, who had known me during my visit under very +different circumstances. Besides, my time was fully taken up with +business matters; so fully, that I scarcely had time even to write one +or two brief despatches to Government. + +On the morning of our arrival at Ghat all seemed to promise well. The +Governor welcomed us with hospitality, and his slaves unloaded our +camels, and quickly conducted us to our apartments. At noon, although it +was Ramadhan time, we received some dishes of meat, with figs, grapes, +and molasses--really a sumptuous repast. We were not allowed to go out +the first day. + +The next morning there was a general meeting of the Sheikhs and people +of the town in our apartments; and from the turn affairs began to take, +we found it necessary to despatch a courier to Aroukeen, to beg the +Tanelkums to wait a few days for us at that place. During the meeting +began the first prevarication of the Tuaricks. The son of Shafou said +that he did not agree to conduct us to Aheer--an assertion we +contradicted strongly. At length he exclaimed: "Although I did not agree +to this, I will nevertheless conduct you,"--making a new favour of an +old bargain. + +When the meeting separated, there was another affair brought on the +carpet by Hateetah and Waled Shafou. They boldly demanded seventy reals, +or small dollars of Ghat, for the passage of our liberated blacks to +Soudan. I declared that I would not give them a real, and told them to +seize the people if they chose. Hateetah upon this went off in a rage, +and Waled Shafou stayed behind, pretending to seize our servants. We did +not take any notice of him, and at last he likewise departed. Mr. +Gagliuffi had not been able to arrange this affair at Mourzuk,--it being +left in this position, "that they (Hateetah and Shafou) would say +nothing about the matter; but that if others did, we should pay a +little." The man who has a right to this tribute from freed blacks is +now absent from Ghat, and any claim ought to be made in his name by his +representatives. When the Governor heard of this affair, he sent to tell +us "to arrange the matter, and give something to these dogs of +Tuaricks;" at the same time expressing his sorrow for such a shameful +demand: and shameful it was, because we had already paid for ourselves +and our servants three hundred reals. Besides this sum, Hateetah and +Waled Shafou had each of them received a present of about a hundred +mahboubs. Finally my friend, Haj Ibrahim, the merchant, undertook to +arrange this business, and paid on our account twenty-eight reals more +for our servants. + +On the morning of the 20th there was another general meeting, and I +presented the treaty for consideration. A long discussion followed, but +I at first misunderstood the conclusion to which the Sheikhs came. +However, the following day we had a regular debate, the result of which +was that the Sheikhs and heads of the town declared they could not come +to a final arrangement until the winter souk (market), when all the +notables would be assembled. + +A great deal of unpleasant discussion occurred during all these +meetings, and I had to fight my way step by step. The Shereef was first +on my side, but as I had promised him a present only if the treaty were +signed, and as he saw that this would not take place, he turned round +and became my active enemy. However, it was out of his power to do me +much harm. The greater part of the last days of my stay were spent in +agitation about the presents for Jabour, Khanouhen, Berka, and others, +some of whom were absent. I said that nothing could be given until the +Sheikhs and the people of Ghat did something for the Queen--for the +presents were the Queen's presents. Finally, the day before our +departure, a great uproar was made on this subject, and I was obliged to +yield the point, and give them burnouses. These presents had been +promised to Hateetah on the road from Mourzuk to Ghat, upon the +condition that the Sheikhs and people would agree to the treaty. They +had also been mentioned at Mourzuk; but then, nothing had been said +about conditions. I considered it highly impolitic to allude to the +treaty in the hearing of the Turks, who would have thought I was +secretly going to enter into an alliance offensive and defensive with +the Ghateen against them. The Tuaricks, however, stood upon the point, +that when the burnouses were promised first, there was no talk of an +equivalent, and I was obliged to concede. + +When I had finished distributing these presents, there was peace for the +few hours that we were yet to remain at Ghat. Haj Ahmed, however, seeing +and hearing of all this confusion, became alarmed lest I should repeat +it to Mourzuk, and refused to take the presents of tea, coffee, sugar, a +white burnouse, and a few large carpet-rugs, which I offered him. His +son, also, refused what I tendered, a fez and a turban, because it was +not enough. Everybody in Ghat who expected a present from us, seemed +determined to be satisfied with nothing less than a burnouse. The +Governor wished to appear perfectly disinterested amidst this confusion +and these extortionate demands of the Tuaricks. I was not sorry for the +refusals, for really I have ten thousand people to give presents to +before I return from the interior. + +I do not consider that, after all, Haj Ahmed treated us so well as he +might have done. The first dinner was good; but the others were poor, +and some of it I could not eat at all. He was disappointed at my not +bringing him a printed Koran; but I could not, on this occasion, make +such a present. + +Hateetah, in all these disputes at Ghat, has acted a double part. +Publicly he was our enemy; but privately he pretended to be our greatest +friend. He was imitated in his conduct by the son of Shafou, who seemed +to look upon him as his Mentor. On leaving, Hateetah promised that I +should see something wonderful which he would do for me, speaking of the +treaty. I am afraid that not much reliance can be placed on these fine +promises. + +On the morning fixed for my departure, the Sheikhs and Haj Ahmed, seeing +me much grieved, out of health and out of temper, all came forward to +try and repair any mischief they might have done me and their own +reputation. They begged me to leave the treaty with them, and promised +faithfully in the assembly of all the Sheikhs, in the winter, to do +their best to gratify the wishes of the British Government. They also +undertook to write private letters themselves, especially Hateetah. Haj +Ibrahim, to whom I presented a watch worth twenty dollars, also promised +to render me all his assistance and influence with the Sheikhs, and to +be my wakeel (agent) in my absence. Jabour paid me a farewell visit, and +after he received his present was very polite and jocular. Yusuf Moknee, +as a Tripoline, also paid him six reals; for he is the official +protector of people from that city, as well as some others. The day +before, one of his people had seized my Fezzanee servant because he did +not give the usual presents, viz. a barracan and common fez. He was put +to "working in water," as they call it; that is, to assist in irrigating +one of the gardens. After a short time, however, they allowed him to +return to me. Such are the Tuaricks--grasping, violent, and capricious! +I cannot, however, until I see the fate of the treaty, completely decide +upon the conduct of Hateetah and the body of Sheikhs generally. + +Mahommed Kafa was one of our best friends at Ghat, and had always a +smile to greet us with--a great relief in a country where most of the +people you meet have a frown on their brows and their mouths closely +muffled up. This man is the most considerable merchant of Ghat, and +exerted himself greatly to procure us an escort of Kailouees. I gave a +white burnouse to him and his son. They both sent us a dinner. We were +fortunate in finding a party of Kailouees here on their way to Aheer. +They have agreed to act as escort, which renders us in some measure +independent of the son of Shafou. + +During my residence at Ghat I received a visit from my old friend +Ouweek, and also from the old bandit whose acquaintance I made at +Ghadamez. Ouweek was very complimentary, and shook me cordially by the +hands. He observed, "There is no fear in this country; go on in advance: +this country is like Fezzan." I then brought him out some tobacco, and a +handkerchief to wrap it in. As usual, he did not seem satisfied with +this; so I added a loaf of white sugar. He then noticed Yusuf, and thus +addressed him: "Yusuf! I have heard that Hateetah and the son of Shafou +are about to conduct these Christians to Soudan. I am a better man than +them all! Now Hateetah and Waled Shafou will want this sugar and tobacco +on the road. I leave it for them." On this he started up on two sticks, +for he is doubly lame, having the Guinea-worm in both legs, and went +away hurriedly. I, however, sent the sugar and tobacco after him, and +this time he condescended to accept them. He came to see me mounted on +his maharee (or dromedary). + +To the old bandit of Ghadamez I also presented some tobacco, and he went +his way. Fortunately there were few Tuaricks in Ghat at this time, +otherwise I should have had hosts of such visitors. The absence of these +grasping chiefs has interfered, it is true, with the treaty of commerce; +but it is possible, that even had Khanouhen been present some other +shift would have been discovered. There are now present in Ghat only the +Sheikh Jabour, Waled Shafou, Sheikh Hateetah, Sheikh Ouweek, and Haj +Ahmed, the governor of the town. The Sultan Shafou himself is on the +road to Soudan, and we shall probably meet him in a few days on our way. +I have, however, sent this aged chieftain a handsome sword from the +English Government, by his son, to whom I gave it in one of the public +meetings. + +With reference to the treaty, it may, perhaps, be considered in a fair +way to be finally accepted. At the winter souk every person of influence +and authority in the country will be present, and in the form in which I +have presented it, I believe it will provoke little or no opposition. +The clauses with reference to religion and the slave-trade have, of +course, been left out; the first as unnecessary, the second as dangerous +at this early stage of our proceedings. Even already it may be said that +the market at Ghat may safely be visited by British merchants; for +although Hateetah may require heavy presents, he will certainly protect +them. + +However, we must bear in mind, that in a country governed in so +irregular way, it is very difficult to answer for the future. The +governor, Haj Ahmed himself, told me in a deprecating manner, "Ghat is a +country of Sheikhs!" and Hateetah says, half jocularly, "Ghat has thirty +Sultans!" Fortunately, however, it is the interest of the rulers of this +part of the desert to encourage traffic; they live by it; otherwise it +would be dangerous to trust to their assurances. + +We were in all but seven days in Ghat, so that I had no time to make +researches. However, I am fortunate in procuring a collection of +dialogues and a vocabulary of most of the common words in the Tuarick +dialect of the tribes in Ghat. I employed for this purpose Mohammed +Shereef, nephew of the Governor of Ghat, who is a pretty good Arabic +scholar. I have also made an arrangement with my friend Haj Ibrahim to +forward to the British Government a small quantity of Soudan +manufactures for the Exhibition of 1851; so that the industry and +handicraft of the dusky children of Central Africa may be represented +side by side with the finished works of Paris and London artisans.[6] + + [6] This account of Mr. Richardson's residence at Ghat is copied + from a summary in his journal, with occasional insertions + from his despatches to Government. It is very brief and + imperfect; but the traveller was so fully occupied by + various kinds of business during his stay, that he was not + able to write, and only threw upon paper a rough memorandum + after he had started on his way to Aheer. The imperfection + is the less to be regretted, as, up to this point, the + Sahara had previously been pretty well travelled and + described. He now breaks fresh ground, and is more copious + in his notes.--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Start from Ghat--Reflections--Beautiful Valley of Berket--Last +Date-palms--The Kailouees--Dr. Barth lost again--Meet our Guides--The +Akourou Water--Ghadeer--Soudan Influence on the Tuaricks--Wataitee +leaves us--Oasis of Janet--Kailouee Character--A sick Slave--Rocky +Desert--Gloomy Scene--Servants--Egheree Water--Ajunjer--A threatened +Foray from Janet--Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--We have no Money--Region of +Granite--Dr. Barth's Comparisons--A Slave Caravan--Granite +Rocks--Beating Women--The Bird of the Desert--Desolate Region--Our +Relations with the Kailouees. + + +The departure from Ghat was, for most of us, an exciting moment. So far +I had considered myself comparatively on familiar ground; for although I +had followed different routes, the great points of Mourzuk and Ghat were +well known to me. Now, however, we were about to enter upon a +region totally unknown, of which no authentic accounts from +eye-witnesses--unless we count the vague reports of natives--had ever +reached us; valleys unexplored; deserts unaffronted; countries which no +European had ever surveyed. Before us, somewhere in the heart of the +Sahara, raised into magnificence perhaps by the mirage of report, was +the unknown kingdom of Aheer, of which Leo Africanus hints something, +but the names of whose great cities are scattered as if at haphazard +over the maps, possibly hundreds of miles out of their right position. +What reception shall we meet with in that untried land? In what light +will its untravelled natives--fierce from ignorance and bigotry--regard +this mission of infidels, coming from latitudes of which they have never +dreamed, with objects unappreciable and perhaps hostile? Will nature +itself be hospitable? Are there no enemies in the climate, no perils +peculiar to the seasons? These questions occupied my mind as the caravan +wound between the last palm-groves of Ghat; and my camel, resuming its +swinging march, went away with its neck advanced like a bowsprit over +this desert sea, which might be scattered with hidden dangers at every +step. + +The wind does not always serve at the outset of a voyage. Our first +stage was only of two hours southwards, as far as Berket, a considerable +town, well walled, situate under a low hill, and surrounded with +palm-trees and gardens. The people visited us on our arrival; all proved +troublesome and some insolent. I had heard a better account of them. +Their country is pleasanter than themselves, certainly the most +picturesque piece of desert I have seen since leaving Tripoli. A range +of lofty black mountains extends on the east, with mounds of sand and +smaller hills at their base, dotted with the beautiful ethel-tree; palms +rise in abundance on all sides; gardens surround the wells; and animals +feed about on the plain. The scenery is quite rich, and even suggests +the idea of fertility. The Tuaricks possess many similar fine valleys. + +We started late next day from Berket, and made only four hours to a +well. Here it was necessary to wait for Waled Shafou, and the three +extra camels which we have hired to go with us to Aheer. The scenery +resembles that of yesterday; but there is not so much herbage, and the +palms are absent. Probably the date-palms of Berket are the last trees +of this species which we shall see until our return. The olive-district +has long ago been left behind; and now the columnar date-palm is also to +be among the things that were. They report, however, that there is a +diminutive species in Aheer. We shall greet this dwarf-cousin of our old +friend with pleasure. + +We are on our way to meet the Kailouee Tuaricks, with whom we have +arranged in Ghat to conduct us by Aheer to Zinder--a service for which +we have already paid a hundred dollars of the money of Ghat. They are a +company of merchants returning to their own country, and although they +will probably protect us to a certain extent, can scarcely inspire so +much confidence as Waled Shafou would have done. We travelled four hours +on the 26th. Dr. Barth was again lost this evening, having pushed on in +his usual eager way for about half an hour. We were filled with alarm. +There were two roads dividing at a certain place, one direct and the +other turning off at an angle. Naturally, the Doctor followed the +straight road, which proved to be the wrong one. However, knowing he had +gone on before, my fears were awakened when we reached the fork; and I +immediately fired several guns, and ordered a search to be commenced. +The guns not only served as guides to Dr. Barth, but introduced us to +the Kailouees, who were close at hand, and came running to meet us. +Their appearance, for I scarcely know what reason, sent a thrill of joy +through our frames; and the weariness and discouragement we had brought +with us from Ghat disappeared. We entertained great hopes of these new +companions. The first impression they produced was good; for they +greeted us most cheerfully, and began helping to unload the camels. They +have several female slaves with them, and muster in all some twenty +persons and about thirty camels; so that, altogether, we shall form a +very respectable caravan. + +We rose early on the 27th, and starting at half-past six, continued +moving until noon, when we encamped in a valley a little before the +water of Akourou, where there is herbage for the camels in a hollow +amidst rocky sandstone hills. The scenery of this part of the desert +continues to be very varied. The range of lofty marl hills, over which +the sun rises for Ghat, is still seen stretching northwards and +southwards. Animals feed about here and there; some quails whirr along +the ground; black vultures, white eagles, and numerous crows, perch upon +the rocks, or speckle the sky overhead. I went to visit the "Water," as +they call a small lake that nestles amidst the rocks. It is of some +depth, and filled, they say, merely by rain-water, very palatable to +drink. Even when no showers occur for several years it does not become +quite empty; and as there is no apparent reason for this, I am led to +suppose it may be partly fed by some spring in the rocks that form its +bed. This lake imparts an unusually cheerful aspect to the valley in +which it lies. It is resorted to by the dwellers of the neighbouring +district, who come to water their flocks, and feed them on the herbage +that springs round the margin. These pools or collections of water are +called ghadeer, which I at first mistook for the name of a particular +locality. According to Yusuf, this place gives an exact idea of the +Tibboo country, where, he says, there are no wells, but vast clefts in +the rock, down which pours the water when it rains, to collect in the +hollows at the bottom. Our people speak with great respect of this +ghadeer. Everything connected with water is sacred in the desert. They +say that for several weeks after a rain-storm there are regular cascades +over the rocks. + +Next day we advanced in six hours to a wady similar to that we had left; +curiously shaped sandstone rocks showed themselves on all sides: no +fossils were discovered. Asses in droves were seen feeding about. The +Tuaricks possess a good number of these useful animals, brought from +Soudan, of a finer breed than those at Mourzuk. All the domestic animals +of the country are from the same place--the horses, bullocks used to +draw the water from the wells, as well as the sheep and asses. Ghat, +indeed, is within the circle of Soudan influence; the people dress in +Soudan clothes; eat off Soudan utensils; and mingle a great deal of the +Soudan language with their Tuarick dialect. We feel, therefore, as if we +were now going towards a centre instead of from a centre. Mourzuk, on +the contrary, holds itself in connexion with the Arabs of the coast; and +seems to receive no influence from the interior except by means of the +Tibboos, who form a kind of connecting link. There is a considerable +sprinkling of this curious people in the lower portions of the +population of Mourzuk, and there are always some genuine specimens to be +met with in the streets. It may be said, however, that both the capital +of Fezzan and Ghat itself seem rendezvous from all parts of Africa; and +I imagine, that in all the souk (market) cities of the interior the same +fact will be observed. However, it will remain true, no doubt, that +south of Ghat the influence of Soudan will be far more sensibly marked +than on the other side. + +The son of Shafou, Mahommed Wataitee, who seems to have made up his mind +to shirk the journey to Aheer, left us this morning to go to Aroukeen +and meet his father, who is encamped with his flocks and dependants +around that well. No doubt it is fashionable in Ghat land to be "out of +town" at this season of the year. Our Kailouees have determined to take +another and more direct road, avoiding Aroukeen and the Azgher Tuaricks +in its neighbourhood. Waled Shafou says, he shall fall in with us +somewhere about Falezlez; but this seems somewhat doubtful. When people +separate in the desert they must not calculate on meeting again in a +hurry. We parted about three hours from the water of Akourou, the road +to Aroukeen branching off there. He took the easterly route and we the +westerly, and we were soon out of sight. Our way still lay through +desert-hills, but with vegetation frequently. There was talk of the +small oasis of Janet to our left; and we indulged in some pastoral +reflections on the life of contemplative ease and primitive simplicity +which would be indulged in in such an out-of-the way place. + +We seem to have got into some scrape with the Kailouees. Besides the +hundred dollars which Haj Ibrahim paid them to conduct us from Aheer to +Zinder, it appears he promised them some burnouses, when we have none +for them. They mentioned the subject to-day, very naturally. We must do +as well as we can. They seem civil enough; but an incident has just +occurred which has much displeased me. + +It appears that when these people came to Ghat, a few weeks ago, they +left a sick slave with some shepherds among these rocks. To-day they +inquired about the slave, whether she was dead, or what had become of +the poor thing; but the shepherds refused to give any account,--said, in +fact, they knew nothing about the matter. Upon this the Kailouees seized +a black boy belonging to these poor people and dragged him along, with a +rope round his neck, to terrify him into confessing what had become of +the slave. The poor boy, however, had nothing to confess; so at last, +after they had dragged him for some distance, they let him go. Such is a +specimen of the incidents which almost daily occur, arising out of this +horrible traffic. I lectured one of the Kailouees on the subject, and +told him that we were in Tuarick territory, and that such an action +might bring the genuine Tuaricks upon us. + +It would appear that the governor of the town of Aghadez, or rather of +the whole Kailouee race, is not known, there having lately been a +revolution in this Saharan region. All the country is up in arms. We +shall arrive at the interesting crisis of a change of dynasty. The two +Sultans of Aheer known, are our friends En-Noor and Lousou. + +_27th._--We rose at daybreak and soon started, ascending from the valley +through a difficult pass to a rocky plateau, over which we pursued our +undeviating track for more than nine hours, and pitched our tents in a +small and nameless wady, covered with a sprinkling of herbage. This was +a trying day for the camels, the ground being rough with loose stones. +How different is all this from European notions of a desert, or level +expanse of sand! With some few exceptions, the Sahara is a region +covered by comparatively low, rocky hills, forming valleys here and +there, supplied with trees, and herbage, and water. We are now in a +really uninhabited spot; scarcely a bird is seen, or a lizard, or a +beetle, or any living thing, save a few flies that still follow the +caravan on unwearied wing, and buzz with moderated ferocity about the +noses of the camels. + +What fantastic forms did the rock assume to-day! Now its pinnacles +bristled up like a forest of pines; now there seemed to rise the forms +of castles and houses, and even groups of human beings. All this is +black sandstone--hideously black, unlovely, unsociable, savage-looking. +'Tis a mere wilderness of rock, thrown in heaps about, with valleys, or +trenches, or crevices, through which the caravan slowly winds. This is +our first cloudy day. May we have many such! We feel little of the sun's +power, although there is little or no wind. We must have reached a +considerable elevation. + +I begin to find it necessary to keep a tight rein over our servants, +otherwise our encampment and party would always be in disorder. Mohammed +Tunisee is a very impertinent fellow at times, and is capable of +spoiling all the others. This evening I gave the Kailouees and their +servants a treat of coffee, which much delighted them. Amongst the rest +was En-Noor's servant. We get on very well with them for the present. + +_30th._--We made five hours of very difficult road, winding nearly all +the way through a ravine of the rocky plateau, and finally descended by +a precipitous path, among some rocks, to a small lake or pool enclosed +within immense cliffs of rock, called the Egheree Water. It is produced +solely by rain. Within ten minutes of this, between the cliffs, is +another three times the size, and of the same origin. All about, +moreover, there are little pools of water sparkling amongst the rocks, +left by the recent rain. We encamped in a narrow wady, called Ajunjer, +further on; and propose to remain during the rest of the day and +to-morrow. It has been cool to-day, with wind; the sky clear, of a deep +blue. In the rocky valley we observed a species of hedge-thorn, called +jad[=a]ree; also many of the fine large-leafed plants, called baranbakh; +and the sweet-smelling sheeah, that reminded us of home-lavender. + +We have been hitherto going on in a quiet, jog-trot way enough, almost +forgetting that the desert has perils, and that we are not in a +civilised land. Now comes something to awaken us out of this dream of +comfort. A courier has arrived from Ghat, bringing the news that one +Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf, the great man of the oasis of Janet--on which +we have been speculating so pastorally--is preparing to come out and +intercept our passage to Soudan, near the well of Tajetterat. This +pleasant intelligence came to us in a letter from Hateetah and Jabour, +who, however, philosophically add that they are not quite sure it is +correct. I rewarded the courier with five reals, and sent him off to +Waled Shafou and the Sultan with the news; begging the former to meet us +certainly at Falezlez, which is about four days from this, whilst +Tajetterat is nearly eight. Janet is now only a day and a-half +south-south-west from our encampment. It is a small oasis, inhabited by +Moors and Tuaricks. The statistics of the place begin to interest us +exceedingly. We are told that there is a good deal of corn grown there, +on account of the abundance of water. Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--whose +voluminous name we found it quite easy to learn under these +circumstances--is cousin of the Sultan Shafou, and a very old man; but +we cannot hope that in these frugal regions the gout will interfere in +our favour, and put a stop to this unprovoked foray. + +The weather has been cool to-day. We are on high ground, although in a +wady; and this renders the heat very supportable. The reported attack +keeps our minds occupied, and has a little upset us; but no one talks of +flinching. Besides, this has not been the first alarm, nor will it be +the last. I sent an account of this circumstance so far to Lord +Palmerston by the courier; and should have written much more, had not I +been occupied with the news and with the Kailouees, who have chosen this +occasion to be troublesome. We do not get so much information, by the +way, out of these people as we might expect; they do not know the names +of the wadys and rocks hereabouts, and so pretend they have none. + +The hundred dollars which we brought from Mourzuk are now nearly all +gone--I have only eight or ten left. Friend Sidi Jalef Waled +Sakertaf--how unmusical the name sounds!--will get little money from us, +and must content himself with our baggage, if he will play the robber. +For the cousin of a Sultan, fie! + +_August 1._--We left Ajunjer early, and made five hours only, because +to-morrow there is no herbage until late in the evening. How tantalising +to be obliged to advance thus by short stages towards an ambuscade! We +take things pretty philosophically, however, and make geological +observations. Overweg (who begins to show signs of weakness) is +delighted that we have at length reached a region of granite. I think I +must have passed a great number of rocks of the same kind between +Ghadamez and Ghat. To the eye of an ordinary observer, some of them have +the same aspect as sandstone, or even limestone. This granite interests +us, especially as in the direct Bornou route there appears to be none at +all. + +Dr. Barth compares the Tuaricks of Ghat and the Haghar to lions and +tigers, and the Kailouees to snakes. The comparison well hits off their +outward characteristics, but, as Overweg says, we must not judge of +these people by the ordinary rules of morality, or apply to them an +European standard. I suspect we shall have to put up with still more +extraordinary specimens of human nature. + +We were proceeding, engaged in noticing the various colours and forms of +the granite, when there appeared advancing through the ravine ahead a +number of moving figures. At first, of course, we were a little alarmed; +but it turned out to be only a slave caravan--about twenty camels and +forty slaves. One of the little boys had an immensely large head--quite +a phenomenon. We, of course, eagerly questioned the merchants about +Sahara news, and especially as to whether the Tuaricks had made their +appearance at Falezlez or Tajetterat. They had neither seen nor heard of +the hostile party; and perhaps we may hope that all this is a rumour. +However, it looked very like truth; and, possibly, Sidi Jafel may know +perfectly well that there is no occasion to hurry. The Tanelkums are now +about four days in advance of us, and may receive the first brunt of the +attack. These slave-dealers tell us, that from Falezlez to the place +where we are to be robbed and murdered is four days of dismal desert, +without water--suffering before sacrifice. We are getting into the heart +of the Sahara at last. Day by day the stations become more difficult. +Another caravan is to pass in a few days, which may give us more +definite intelligence. I am writing to Government and to my wife; but of +camels I am heartily sick. Gagliuffi's camel still sticks in my throat. +It was the first to knock up. I have left it at Ghat--thirty-eight +mahboubs gone. People want to make a fortune out of my poor expedition. + +_2d._--We made a long day of twelve hours, at first between granite +rocks for four hours, and then over a sandy plain. This plain was at +first scattered with pebbles of granite, but finally it became all sand. +The granite rocks were mostly conic in form, and on our right rose one +peak at least six hundred feet high. Further off on the same side, at a +distance, the rocks continued in a range, instead of being scattered +about like so many sugar-loaves placed upon a plane, as mountains are +represented to children. To-day the granite became stratified, or +gneiss; there were also some fine specimens of hornblend. + +One of our Kailouee friends amused himself on the road by giving a good +beating to his female slave. These people transact their domestic +affairs in public with the utmost simplicity. They seem to think they +are showing themselves in a favourable light by this brutal conduct, for +I detect glances of pride thrown towards us. Whenever these beatings +occur--which they do at no distant intervals--there is always another +servant, or some one, who attempts to separate the enraged master from +the object of his wrath. In the present instance, interference took +place in time to prevent any very serious consequences; otherwise, I +have no doubt the ruffians would go on exciting themselves, and beating +harder and harder, even until death ensued. We noticed the common black +bird I have already mentioned, with white head and tail. It is indeed +seen everywhere, and may emphatically be called "The Bird of the +Desert!" + +Next day, the 3d, we started at daybreak, and made another long day of +nearly twelve hours. It is necessary to hurry over these inhospitable +tracts. After two hours we got among some sand-hills, and continued all +day over the same kind of ground--hill and valley alternating, with here +and there a huge, isolated, granite, rock rising up like an island. +Pebbles strewed the surface of the sandy valleys. I scarcely remember to +have beheld so desolate a region. For two days there has been no water, +and the camels have stretched out their necks in vain for herbage. A +little grass, it is true, was plucked among the sand-hills to-day, and +mixed with the dates, which we are compelled to give to the camels. +These poor beasts are becoming thin and gaunt, from the effects of heat, +fatigue, and especially from the lack of sufficient herbage. Luckily, +cool winds from the south supply the place of the gheblee. + +This evening one of the Kailouees challenged me to have a run with him; +I accepted the challenge, and we ran a short distance, to the great +amusement of the people. + +Our guides are sociable companions enough. They pointed out to day on +the sand the footsteps of the caravan which we met a few days ago going +to Ghat; and likewise their own footsteps, left when they passed by that +way a month and a half since. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Reach Falezlez--Dates left in the Desert--Road-marks--Disputes with the +Kailouees--News from Tidek--Scarcity of Food in Aheer--Similitudes and +Signs of the Tuaricks--Fine Climate--Arrival of Wataitee--His +Boasting--Saharan travelling--My Umbrella--Grasping Son of +Shafou--Geology of the Desert--The "Person who gives"--Another +Caravan--Tuarick Sportsmen--Wady Aroukeen--Fine Scene--New +Trees--Kailouee Camels--Fine Nights--Well--New Moon--Passing a Caravan +in the Desert--Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks--Arrive at Tajetterat--No +Robbers--An Alarm--Well of Esalan--Senna--Birds--Graves of Slave +Children--Our Grievances against the Tuaricks. + + +_4th._--We might have reached the well of Falezlez last night; but as we +did not know who might be waiting for us there, preferred halting +three-quarters of an hour from it, and advanced only in the morning, in +broad daylight. + +Here we found our dates, left by the Tanelkums in the side of a mound of +sand, with a piece of rotten wood stuck up to mark the place. Had they +been, however, exposed by the side of the well, and a hundred caravans +had passed, no one would have touched them. It is a point of honour to +steal nothing thus confided in the desert. Mutual interest suggests +mutual forbearance. The Tanelkums left these dates, because we had only +hired the camels to bring them thus far, and they knew we should not +probably come up with them. This increase of our provisions turns out to +be opportune. Without it, some of our animals might have fallen down. + +Round and near Ghat we found the stones which are set up at certain +intervals to mark the direction of the roads, frequently arranged in +circular heaps. An usual form is pyramidal, but the most common practice +of all is to set up one stone end-ways upon one or two others. Sometimes +a hundred of these will be seen together. + +We have had some trouble in satisfying the Kailouees for the protection +they afford us. At Ghat the agreement made was for one hundred reals, +half in goods and half in money, and a trifling present when they +arrived at their journey's end. This was arranged by Haj Ibrahim and +Mohammed Kafa, a merchant of Ghat, and consul or wakeel of the +Kailouees, whom I have before mentioned. Immediately that they became a +little familiar with us, they began to say that they had not received +all the hundred reals; but on hearing that we should write to Ghat about +it, they dropped this plea, and asked for another hundred reals as the +present promised them, as they pretended, through Haj Ibrahim. When the +news came respecting Sidi Jafel--taking advantage of our supposed +fears--they boldly demanded a sword, some burnouses, and one hundred +reals in money. + +All these demands I firmly resisted as long as I could; but at length, +when a compromise seemed necessary, we arranged for a hundred reals more +in goods. A part we have given here, and the rest we have promised on +our arrival at Aheer. Nothing is now said of Zinder, although the first +arrangement was from Aheer to Zinder. Such are the people we have to +deal with in Africa. But could we not find similar extortion amongst the +innkeepers and the conductors of carriages on the highways of Europe? + +That all the people are _soua soua_--"higgledy-piggledy" is our only +equivalent phrase--is bad news for a Saharan traveller; for it signifies +nothing less than that there is no paramount authority in a country, and +that the traveller is exposed to the insolence of every evil-disposed +person. Such is represented to be the condition of Tidek, the first +province of Aheer upon which we shall enter. + +The scarcity of food in Aheer--one of the causes of the disturbances +that are taking place--arises, we are told, from the quantity of +provisions carried away from the country when the Kailouees made their +expedition against the Walad Suleiman. But this expedition is now +finished, and there has been time for a revival of prosperity. Sickness +and disease are reported in Aheer at the present time. These are +unpleasant tidings for a traveller who is braving the fatigues and +perils of the Great Sahara, in hopes of some little repose at his +journey's end. + +To express great numbers, the Arabs and Tuaricks always use the +similitudes, "like the dust," or "like flies." When the Tuaricks say we +are to give nothing to anybody--speaking, of course, of other people, as +Hateetah to me--they take up a little sand between the ends of their +fingers and scatter it on the palms of their hands. When they wish to +describe roads free from hills and ravines they extend the palm of their +hands, adding, "Like this." I cannot say that I admire the Kailouees in +any respect. Barth's comparison to snakes is tolerably correct. They +have duped us in various ways, and our only consolation is being able to +report their conduct to their friends in Ghat and Zinder. + +These observations occur to me during our prolonged halt at the well of +Falezlez. The whole caravan needs this refreshment, both on account of +the fatigues it has already encountered, as of those to which it may +look forward on the tract of desert which now stretches wild and +inhospitable before us. Yesterday the sky was completely overcast; but +during the night and this morning the clouds have been succeeded by +wind, and strong blasts have completely cooled us. I do not think that +the climate would affect me so much as it does if I had something good +to eat; but the Tanelkums have got with them all my soups. The Germans +eat hausa like Tuaricks, and do very well. I expected to find the water +of Falezlez most unpalatable. This, indeed, is its reputation; but we +were all agreeably deceived, and the salt taste was scarcely +perceptible. + +About ten in the morning, on the 5th, a solitary white camel, with a +rider, was reported as trotting rapidly over the hills to the east. The +circumstance created some excitement. It was Mohammed Wataitee, son of +Shafou, coming riding like the monarch of the desert, as he is, upon his +fine maharee. He had been travelling three days and three nights +consecutively; and however eager we were to hear his opinion of the +dangers that threatened us, it was necessary to allow him to spend the +whole day in repose. + +When we could get speech of the traveller, he talked boastfully of the +value of his protection, and assured us that we had really nothing to +fear. He had heard, or would acknowledge to have heard, no rumours of +the hostile intentions of his father's cousin; only, he observed, "He is +an old man," with a gesture that implied wilfulness. He would have us +believe that this terrible enemy who has been pursuing us--at least in +our imagination--is nothing but a testy old gentleman, who says these +sort of things in a fanciful way just to express his power. + +_6th._--We were off soon after sunrise, and made a long day of twelve +hours. The Kailouees were half an hour more performing the same +distance. They started first, and we travel a little faster than they. +Scarcely a blade of herbage cheered our sight to day. A sandy, gravelly +hamadah, with a few rocks and sand-hills here and there,--such is the +nature of the country. The rocks now assume a conic form, _ke ras +suker_, like a sugar-loaf, as the people say. Our course was south-west, +and so it will continue to be, nearly as far as Esalan, I was amused by +an observation of Dr. Overweg; he said, "I now understand the system of +these people" (Saharan travellers). "It is to travel as much as possible +without labour--to do all that is necessary, but nothing more. When we +left Tripoli, instead of reposing immediately at the camping-ground of +the caravan, everybody was running about to climb the hills and rocks; +but now we all fall down to rest as soon as we have halted." The Doctor +speaks of himself and Barth, certainly not of me; for I always rested as +much as possible with the people. + +My old broken white umbrella attracts some attention amongst the +Kailouees. They all make a trial of it. Strong umbrellas would be very +useful during the hot summer months for all Saharan travellers. + +I to-day asked the son of Shafou how his father liked the sword. An +unfortunate question. He replied, "Ah, he sends his compliments; but +says the sword is a little thing, and that you ought to have sent him +some money. There were many people waiting to see you at Aroukeen. They +were much disappointed at your not coming. They said,--'The Christians +must pass this way.'" It appears that a whole tribe of Tuaricks were +waiting for us, to beg, and to "eat us up," as the Arabs graphically +express it. In this respect we have been fortunate in not finding +Tuaricks on our line of route. + +7th--We made another long and weary day of twelve hours. The fatigue is +killing. Our course was south-west, through heaps and groups of rocks +and narrow shallow wadys. In some directions, ridges of small rocks; in +others, isolated masses of conic form. The bed of the desert is mostly +granite, and some of the rocks are of the same substance. Indeed, the +Central Sahara seems to bristle with ridges of granite. Then there are +many varieties of this stone, and others springing out of granite, as +quartz rocks and felspar, and some sandstone mixed with quartz. Across +our path we observed many traces of wild oxen, and a few were seen with +their immense horns. Birds and reptiles were rare, and the lizard not so +frequent as before. Our camels found scarcely a mouthful of hasheesh; no +trees were visible, except a few miserable tholukhs. + +The Kailouees have changed in a marked manner since Wataitee has +rejoined us, and are much more civil. But I do not talk to them, +contenting myself with a civil "Good day. How do you do?" This prevents +them from begging of me. They beg of Barth and Overweg, who do not +notice them. As I am "the person who gives," I am obliged to be very +polite, but distant. + +_8th._--We started at sunrise, and made a short day of seven hours and +a-half, resting at last in a wady surrounded with rocks, where there was +some good herbage. + +In the course of this march we met another portion of the large Soudan +caravan, and consigned to it our letters. They brought the news that the +Tanelkums were a day only in advance, having halted to take up water at +Aroukeen, where they dug again the old well which had been blocked with +stones. + +This caravan informed us, besides, that the body of the large caravan +was resting at the well of Tajetterat. They had seen no Tuaricks. We +begin to hope that we have been disturbed by false alarms. + +At about four hours from the encampment of yesterday we descried some +mountains to the south-west. Near them is the well of Janet, said to be +about seven hours out of the line of route. It is a frequent resort of +Tuaricks, who come to the neighbourhood for hunting purposes. All this +region is favourable to sport. Along our route to-day were noticed +footmarks of wild oxen and wadan. + +Wataitee asked me whether he should go to see if there were any Tuaricks +at Janet, to get news of them; but I told him that he had better +continue with us until we reach Tajetterat. This he has agreed to do; +and we all feel that his presence is, to a certain extent, a protection. + +In the evening we had a visit from three Tuarick sportsmen, with a +couple of dogs. We purchased two carcases of wadan from them. It would +have been most amusing to an untravelled European to witness the +bartering between us. The principal hunter got hold of the grey calico, +and would not let go until he had his full measure. Then how +deliberately he measured again with his long arms, with all the +appearance of justice, whilst he was filching off inches at once! Two +small carcases cost us about a mahboub. Wataitee pretends that these +hunters never carry provisions with them, but must catch wadan and oxen +or die. I made a tremendous supper of wadan, being as ravenous as a wolf +for a little meat and soup. The meat is so strong and nourishing, that +it threatened to produce injurious effects. It is necessary to be +cautious about indulging in unaccustomed food. Still this meat is far +superior to camels' flesh. + +_9th._--We rose, and, with our accustomed regularity, started before +daybreak in search of water, for the Kailouees are without this element +essential to life in the desert. Having continued about six hours and +a-half, we encamped in Wady Aroukeen. It would not have been necessary +to come to this place, had our imprudent Kailouees taken in a sufficient +supply of water. This wady lies east and Tajetterat west. + +Our course had been over an elevated rocky plain; but I had no idea of +the height to which we had arrived. Suddenly the ground broke up on +either side of the track into rocky eminences, and we now came to the +brow of a sharp descent. The valley of Aroukeen wound as it were like a +snake far down at the bottom of an immense hollow, surrounded on all +sides by an amphitheatre of savage-looking mountains--great stony +swells, made hideous here and there by crags and ravines, and piled away +on all sides in shattered magnificence. This is the grandest desert +prospect I have yet seen, and must strongly clash with the ordinary +notion of the Great Sahara which untravelled geologists have represented +as the recently-elevated bed of some ocean. We must now have reached the +summit of an inland Atlas, dividing the extreme limits of the Ghat +territory from the, to us, mysterious kingdom of Aheer. + +In Wady Aroukeen there are some of the finest tholukhs I have seen, +reaching the height of thirty or forty feet. There are, besides, two new +species of trees, the adwa of Soudan, called, in Aheer, _aborah_: they +have not been observed before, and are natives of Bornou. Their general +aspect resembles the tholukh, but they have large prickles and a smooth +roundish leaf. There is a good deal of hasheesh in this valley. + +We are now, they say, about twelve days from Aheer, exclusive of the +stoppages; twelve days, I mean, of twelve hours a-piece. These long +stretches are desperately fatiguing, and trying to the health; but there +is no remedy. We must make these weary stages on account of the scarcity +of water and herbage for the camels. The Kailouees tie their camels by +the lower jaw, and fasten the string to the baggage piled on the back of +the preceding animal; and the long line moves on well this way. The +Tuaricks fasten their bridles, when they ride their maharees, by a round +ring in the nose. + +We had granite again to-day, and fine beds of felspar, pebbles, and +rocks. The geology of this portion of Sahara is very interesting, but no +crystals have yet been found. Yesterday and to-day, the wind has been +high, moderating greatly the heat. The wind is nearly always south-east. +The nights are resplendent. Jupiter and Venus are seen close together in +beautiful conjunction. The constellation of the Scorpion rises higher in +the south, whilst the Pole-star apparently falls. + +I read nothing nowadays but a few verses of the Greek Testament, and +write these miserable leaves of journal. I must save my strength. I am +very weak as it is. We have still got nearly forty days of actual +travelling to make before we enter Soudan, but we hope Providence will +allow us a little rest at Aheer. + +_10th._--We moved on late this morning up Wady Aroukeen, one hour and +a-half, to a place where we have better feeding for the camels; but it +was scarcely worth the trouble of loading and unloading, as the animals +could have been led up here to this portion of the wady. + +Wady Aroukeen is in every respect a desirable place for the +resting-place of a caravan. It is full of trees and hasheesh, and lined +with lofty precipitous rocks, which afford shelter in winter and in +summer, and, as say the Scriptures, give "the shadow of a great rock in +a weary land." The well dug by the Tanelkums supplies very palatable +water. It lies about an hour and a-half from our encampment. + +I sent off my Soudanese servant this morning to the Tanelkums, to ask +them to wait for us; or at least leave the things behind which I require +for our use. + +Yesterday evening the new moon (second evening) was seen by our people, +telling them that the Ramadhan was finished. They saluted the pale +crescent horn with some discharges of their guns. + +To-day is a great feast, but they have not the means of keeping it. + +I cannot say that at this portion of my journey my mind is visited by +much cheerfulness. However agreeable may be the valley of Aroukeen, with +its grass patches, its clumps of trees, and the eternal shadow of its +rocks, I find my strength begin, to a certain extent, to fail me. For +several days I have had some threatening symptoms of ill-health; not +very serious, perhaps, to a person surrounded with any of the comforts +of civilisation, but much so to one in my position. Besides, despite my +endeavours to disbelieve the dangers with which we are said to be +menaced from lawless freebooters, it is difficult to disregard them so +far as to remain perfectly impassive. + +My Kailouee friends do not seem to share our apprehensions. Sometimes +this circumstance cheers me; at others it suggests the idea that they +may be in league with their brethren. Let us hope not. At any rate I am +still displeased with them on account of their shabby conduct, and +disposed, perhaps, to look at them more unfavourably than they deserve. + +A man came over the hills to our right in the course of the day. He +belonged to the Soudan caravan, the great body of which was passing at +no great distance by another road. Our presence does not seem to be +agreeable to such of these people as derive no profit from it. This +individual, in his own name and that of his companions, insists that we +Christians must not be allowed to enter the City of Marabouts, the Holy +City of Aheer. Many Musulman countries of the interior have their holy +cities. Perhaps this worthy man made these observations because he had +nothing else to say. At any rate, having expressed his opinion, he went +off. I regretted his churlish warning; but his presence, to a certain +extent, cheered me. It was pleasant to know that a large body of my +fellow-creatures were near at hand in this inhospitable desert, even +though they entertained feelings of suspicion against us, and were +proceeding on a path which might never again bring us together. Caravans +often pass thus in these regions, like ships at sea, which hail each +other if within hearing, but, not lying-to, are satisfied by this slight +testimony of mutual sympathy. + +_11th._--We started somewhat late, and made a good day of nine hours and +a-half through winding narrow valleys, supplying a fair quantity of +hasheesh. The country around was wild and rugged--still the same +primitive formation, gneiss being the most common rock. On the way we +heard the story of the origin of the Kailouees, as given by the Haghar +Tuaricks; it is probably meant as a satire. According to this people, a +female slave escaped from their country, and travelling over the desert, +reached her native place in Soudan. But she bore within her bosom a +pledge that still half bound her to her ancient masters. She brought +forth a male child, and loved him and reared him; so that in process of +time he took a wife, and from this union sprung the bastard race of +Kailouees. + +_12th._--We had halted the previous evening because we were within an +hour of the well of Tajetterat, which had become famous in our caravan +as the place where we were to be attacked and despoiled by the +freebooter Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf. This morning we pursued our way, +cautiously sending scouts before. But as the wady opened, the place +proved to be desolate, and we advanced joyously, with the confidence +that this time at least we had been disturbed by a false alarm. Still, +as we descended towards the well we could not now and then refrain from +casting our glances about into the gorges of the mountains, to discover +whether or not, after all, our enemies were lying in ambush there. Not a +living thing stirred upon the hills; and we gathered round the two +wells, or rather holes scraped out of the sand, with feelings of delight +and confidence. The water proved to be good; it is said to be produced +by rain, and to be purgative,--a quality it must derive from the soil +through which it trickles. We determined, however, not to stop at this +place, lest the men of Janet[7] might after all arrive; and pushing on, +in hopes that our track might be confounded with those of the caravans, +we reached, after a rapid march of five hours and a-half, the well of +Esalan. As we approached, we saw an encampment in its neighbourhood, and +camels grazing about. Our vanguard halted; and the whole caravan soon +became massed in the entrance of the gorge through which we were about +to issue. Our far-sighted guards, however, soon discovered that there +was no cause for alarm. We had at length overtaken our Tanelkum friends; +and riding forward I greeted them, and, forgetting all idea of danger, +anxiously asked for our baggage, and above all for my inestimable supply +of potted soups! + + [7] This name is sometimes written "Janet," sometimes "Ghanet" + by Mr. Richardson, who, moreover, now describes the + inhabitants of the place as Haghar and then as Azgher. A + more definite account is given further on. It appears, + however, that vulgarly in the Sahara all the Tuaricks are + called Haghar or Hagar, which seems to have been used rather + indiscriminately in the caravan as a term of fear.--ED. + +In this part of the country the scenery is far more open than it was +before; the mountains are lower, but the wadys are not so wide. Here and +there occurred considerable patches of herbage, called _sabot_, and many +large, fine trees. Amongst the smaller ones, for the first time, we came +upon the senna plant, some of the leaves of which our people plucked. +Higher up, in Aheer, is apparently the native soil of this plant. We had +also again the adwa, several trees, and the kaiou or kremka, the only +plant we have yet seen with a truly tropical aspect. + +The adwa bears a fruit something like the date, and is eaten by the +people in Soudan. As to the _sabot_, above mentioned, it is a kind of +herbage, which covers the beds of the valleys in this region of +primitive rock: it forms the principal food of our camels. The _bou +rekabah_, however, the best for them, is in small quantities, but when +seen is devoured to the sand. The people of Aheer eat its seed as +ghaseb. + +Yesterday, we saw, for the first time, a bird's nest in the desert, in +the side of a rock. It contained no eggs; our people, on a former +occasion, brought in some. It is astonishing how few birds' nests are +found, though in some places a good number of small flutterers are seen. +About the wells of Tajetterat darted half-a-dozen quails. We have not +yet observed an ostrich, although many traces have been found on the +sand. Around, however, are numbers of the wadan,[8] and our huntsmen are +active. Yesterday some flesh of this animal was brought in. + + [8] Wadan is the Arabic name of the aoudad of the Berbers. We + call the animal "mouflon" (_Ovis tragelaphus_). It is found + in considerable numbers throughout the deserts of Northern + Africa, from the Atlantic to the Red Sea. I have seen a + beautiful specimen, nearly all milk-white, in Cairo.--ED. + +In this part of the route we frequently fell in with small heaps of +stones; and if we ask what they mean, are invariably told they are the +graves of slave-children who have perished by the way, most probably in +the arms of their mothers. What wonderful tales of sorrow and anguish +could these rocks give, if they were not compelled to eternal dumbness! +What sighs, what shrieks of grief have echoed here! How many tears have +watered this track! These thoughts saddened our way; but they seemed at +the same time to rouse that enthusiasm which is the only adequate ally +to those engaged in such a mission as ours. + +The son of Shafou is to leave us at Esalan. I may as well record here, +in form, a list of our grievances against the Tuaricks, for the +information and warning of future travellers:-- + +1st. They, the Tuaricks, wished to obtain presents from the Germans, +nearly in the same quantity as from myself; or, at least, something +considerable. + +2d. They wanted us to remain six weeks in Ghat, to wait for an answer +from Sultan En-Noor at Aheer. + +3d. They refused to conduct us to the frontier of Aheer, according to +their agreement at Mourzuk. + +4th. They demanded seventy reals for the passage of our free blacks. + +5th. They insisted on having the presents for Berka, Khanouhen, and +Jabour, before the treaty was signed. + +The first two demands I successfully resisted, as also the third at +Ghat. The fourth was compromised; we paid twenty-eight reals instead of +seventy. The last I yielded, on the condition that I should only give +three burnouses. + +_13th._--The water of Esalan is, likewise, nothing but a deposit of +rain. Several holes are scooped out in the sand, down to the rocky bed +of the valley. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +News of Sidi Jafel--Disputes with Wataitee--His violent Conduct and +strange Language--The Desert--Scarcity of Money--Proceed through a rocky +Country--Soudan Weather--Approach the Frontiers of Aheer--Storm--Hard +Day's Travelling--The Seven Wells of Aisou--"The Haghar are +coming"--Suspicious Characters--Alarm--The Three Strangers--Our +Hospitality--Heat of the Weather--Hard Travelling--Account of the +Kailouee Guides--Women of the Caravan--Their Treatment--Youthful +Concubines--Another long Day--A Rock-Altar--Demonstrations of the +Haghar--Wells of Jeenanee--Marks of Rain--Sprightly Blacks--New +Climate--Change in the Vegetation and the Atmosphere. + + +We have at length heard what appears to be a fair account of the rumour +respecting that terrible Sidi Jafel. He did leave Janet as if bound for +Tajetterat; but it was for the purpose of giving his camels a feeding of +herbage in that direction. He took his family and tents with him, and +has been seen with his son by the huntsman of Wady Aroukeen. He is not a +sheikh, but a spirited old man; and, from what I can understand, is a +Haghar belonging to Ghemama, and not an Azgher of Ghat. They now assure +us that he had never any intention of attacking us; but as there is +rarely smoke without a fire, it is possible he may have indulged in a +little threatening talk, just to impress an idea of his importance on +the people of Janet. This is Waled Shafou's view of the case. + +We moved on from the well of Esalan in the evening, but only for an hour +and a half, to a place in the same wady; where there was abundant +herbage for the camels. Here we had another Tuarick dispute. Wataitee +pretended to fix at a very high rate his services in answering to our +call, and proceeding with us as far as this well. At first I refused to +give anything at all, since he had stipulated to conduct us as far as +the frontiers of Aheer. I then offered him a burnouse (a small white +one), and a shasheeah (or fez), both which he obstinately rejected in my +teeth, but did not state what he wanted--except muttering, "Money, +money, money!" + +Fearing some violence from his threatening manner, I was obliged to load +my guns and pistols. Whilst declaring he would not take anything by +force, he used very threatening language. He was to have left us at the +well, but followed us this evening; and when we decamped I determined, +therefore, if possible, to come to some arrangement with him through +En-Noor, as he might prove a dangerous enemy. + +Whilst speaking to Yusuf on this subject, En-Noor the Kailouee, who, by +the bye, must not be confounded with the Sultan of Aheer bearing the +same name, came in and told us that he had just seen Wataitee, who was +exceedingly exasperated, and who threatened to stop the caravan in the +morning if his demands were not complied with. What is to be done? Were +we to aim at satisfying all the unjust claims made upon us, we should +not only be beggared immediately, but should have whole crowds of fresh +suppliants coming in every day. Wataitee seems to expect that I should +give him something like a hundred reals in money for his pretended extra +services, and goes thundering about, "that the lands, and rocks, and +mountains of Ghat do not belong to God, but to the Azgher, to whom the +Creator has given them once and for ever, and who are the sovereign and +omnipotent rulers of this portion of earth--this large tract of Sahara." +There has often been detected in the speeches of African princes a +certain degree of blasphemy and resistance to the omnipotent sovereignty +of the Deity they adore; and this kind of language was not new to me. +The possessors of lawless power seem easily to identify themselves with +gods. + +To us, naked rocks, and treeless valleys, and bare stony plains, are +objects without interest, except in a geological point of view. But it +is very different with the Haghar and Azgher. In their eyes, a plain of +stones and sand holds the place of a heath of growing bloom; a barren +valley is a vale of fertility; rocks and mountains are always objects of +beauty; whilst wells are treasured of wealth, as indeed they are verily +in the desert. A Tuarick may be said to know every stone of his arid +kingdom. + +Taking these things into consideration, and making a merit of necessity, +we agreed together to offer him thirty reals. He had already come down +to fifty, and now accepted the thirty, but said they must be the large +ones, or _douros_ (dollars). It was arranged that I should pay the money +to En-Noor in Aheer; for all now had become convinced that not one of us +three had any dollars worth speaking of left. I believe I have some six +or seven, whilst the Germans have none. If we had brought a thousand +with us, they would all have been scattered to the wind in these Tuarick +countries. Our servants, being persuaded that we have no dollars left, +have sworn to the fact; so that my candid declaration, "That if they +were to kill me, they could not find ten dollars to pay them for their +trouble," is now believed. + +_14th._--Wataitee came early to my tent, and asked me for a bit of +sugar. I gave him half a loaf, with which he was apparently well +satisfied; for afterwards he asked if I had any letters to take to Ghat. +I consigned to him a letter for Mr. Bidwell and my wife. Wataitee amused +Barth by recounting to him numerous dues which he had failed to pay. +Amongst the rest, a tax to see the Kasar Janoon; fifty dollars for +drinking of the well of Esalan, &c. &c. These matters being at length +settled, we proceeded for Aisou, and journeyed a long day of twelve +hours and a-half. I was looking out every moment, expecting to clear the +rocks, and enter upon the immeasurable stretch of plain reported to us. +But all was a rocky granite expanse, with conical-shaped rocks, exactly +as before described. We begin to tire of this kind of country, which +seemed so picturesque when we first entered upon it. + +To-day the weather was misty, and we felt as if entering into the circle +of a new climate. Few or no animals were seen. All is dismal and dreary. + +_15th._--We rose at daybreak, and proceeded steadily on, making a day's +journey of thirteen long weary hours. The stony plain opened rather more +than yesterday, but there were always rocks on either hand. + +To-day we had the first drops of Soudan rain, and a complete Soudan +atmosphere. We also observed the vermilion tinge on the clouds, peculiar +to Central Africa; and the air was hot and clammy. Every sort of desert +phenomenon is seen in these parts in perfection. The mirage often fills +up the interstices left between the rocks, and inundates the plain ahead +with its fantastic waters. + +_16th._--We were early in motion this day; and started, cheered by the +hope held out to us, that at the termination of two long marches we +should at length reach, at the Seven Wells of Aisou, the frontiers of +Aheer. It is true that we were promised no town, no village, not even +visible landmarks; above all, no custom-house officers to suggest the +blessings of civilisation. There was, in truth, some idea that very +indefinite dues might be exacted of us during our progress through the +northern districts of the Asben territory. Still it was a comfort to get +at last within the limits of the influence of a form of polity, however +rude. + +Whilst we were indulging in these reflections, there came on a regular +desert-storm. A vault of clouds, like huge irregular rocks, was soon +heaped up overhead. The thunder roared from side to side of the horizon. +The lightning flashed, sometimes above, sometimes between, the isolated +hills, showing them like long black tents pitched here and there on the +plain. Our beasts moved eagerly on; and their drivers, though accustomed +to such phenomena, were hushed into awe. The tempest did not last many +minutes; but it was accompanied by wind so violent that we could +scarcely preserve our seats in the saddles, and finished off with so +violent a shower of rain that we got quite wet through almost in an +instant. This is a fair warning that we are really within the tropics. + +We made fourteen hours that day, and felt dreadfully exhausted on +arriving at the place where we expected to encamp for the night. In two +hours, however, the Kailouees came and told us that there was no more +water in the skins; that the camels were restless, knowing that a well +was ahead; and that it was better to move on at once, and make for the +well of Aisou, that marks the commencement of the Aheer territory. We +started, therefore, again, although I was suffering from illness, and +moved on all night, nodding in our saddles in a half-slumber, that to +those unaccustomed is almost more fatiguing than watchfulness. Several +times I felt inclined to insist on a halt; but the people, who were +eager to arrive, cried out that _the camels wanted to reach the water_; +and proceeding accordingly, about seven o'clock the next morning we at +length reached the Seven Wells. We found only two open, the others being +closed up by sand. Some of them belong to the Kailouees, and the others +to the Tuaricks of Ghat. There is no good feeding for the camels, only a +few tufts of coarse herbage. The kingdom of Aheer presents itself under +grim colours. I did not move about this day, but consecrated it to rest. +The rocks of Asben rise above the horizon. + +_18th._--Bidding adieu to the land of Ghat--if that name can be applied +to the desert which we have just traversed--we left the Seven Wells, and +once more entered upon the desert. We had scarcely been in motion two +hours, when there was an alarm of Haghar coming upon us from behind. I +did not at first know how the report originated, and looked anxiously +around upon the desert expecting to see a body of enemies charging down +some valley. All the people ran for their guns, and I hastily delivered +out powder and ball. It was amusing to see the slaves with their bows +and arrows, coming forward and trying to look martial. I have no doubt +they would have done their best. When the tumult was a little calmed, I +learned that two of our people, who had remained behind a short time at +the wells of Aisou, saw a Tuarick coming up to the place, and, two +others slowly following, all three mounted on tall maharees. They spoke +to the one who arrived first, and inquired if many were behind. To this +they received a laconic answer, "Yes." One of them accordingly, feigning +to retire, left his servant hid behind a rock to watch what took place, +and ran after us to communicate the unwelcome intelligence, that we +might expect an attack. We marched the whole day with our weapons in +hand, keeping a sharp look-out in the rear. Of course there was no other +subject of conversation than the robbers, of whose existence our fears +made us certain. Were they, after all, led by that Sidi Jafel, of whom +rumour had lately become so complimentary? Whence did these encouraging +accounts come? Were they circulated by persons interested in putting us +off our guard? Discussing these questions, we pushed on through a very +arid country, searching for one of those two blessings, which seem to be +always separated in this part of the desert,--water and herbage. We had +found the former at Aisou; the latter greeted us in plenty at a place +called Takeesat, where we encamped, intending to pass the night and the +whole of next day. The herbage was of the kind called _nasee_, which is +very strengthening for the camels. + +I believed that the Haghar would not follow the Kailouees upon their own +territory, but I was mistaken. Just before sunset, to our surprise, we +saw rising above the hills around the valley where we are encamped, +three mounted men. These mysterious Haghar are then determined, we +thought, to pursue us Christians as their natural prey! The men rode +coolly up and mingled with us, probably understanding and enjoying the +looks of suspicion and terror that greeted them. No one thought proper, +at first, to address them a single question; and they were allowed to +picket their maharees without molestation. It must be confessed that +there was no little agitation in our camp, and everything was done to +give any attacking force a warm reception. We made barricades of the +boat, and kept watch all night. We also scoured the valley all round to +see if there were any other people about. + +I must insist, for the credit of our gallantry, that it was not of these +three men that we were afraid. Our caravan was composed of sixty +individuals capable of bearing arms, besides women and children. Our +camels also amounted to one hundred and seven. Had we not, therefore, +been tormented for so many days by rumours of intended attacks, we +should have laughed at these Haghars, however fierce might have been +their looks, and however hostile their intentions. But our guides, who +knew the habits of the desert, did not think it beneath their dignity to +be alarmed, nor to look anxiously about to the right and to the left, as +if every stone concealed an enemy, every ravine an ambush. + +By the way, it may be as well to mention here, that the reader may know +how to call the enemies we feared, that although vulgarly the whole race +that inhabits between the borders of Fezzan and Timbuctoo are called +Haghar, the Tuaricks of Ghat are properly distinguished as Azgher; and +those located towards Tuat and the Joliba, Haghar. Had they and their +party been of generally predatory dispositions, they would have had +something to occupy them--the caravan belonging to Haj Ibrahim coming +from Soudan. We should, perhaps, be uncharitable enough to hope that +precious time might be occupied in plundering these good people, were we +not certain that, if we are really to be attacked, it is because of the +presence of Christians. Will our guides peril life or limb to preserve +from danger people whose tenets they abhor? + +_19th._--The three men, supposed scouts or spies, remained with us +during the night. At first, it was proposed to push on, and get as far +as possible away from danger; but as our unbidden guests made a great +oath that they did not know that there were foreigners in the caravan, +and that they only wanted a supper, having had nothing to eat for +fifteen days, we determined to carry out our original intention, both +for the sake of our camels and ourselves. That the men might be bound to +us by the tie of hospitality, I presented them with some hamsa, to which +En-Noor added a little zumeetah, and we determined at all hazards to +give our camels and ourselves rest. Our people, in fact, soon discovered +that the Tuaricks had brought nothing with them but a single skin of +water. They pretend they are going to see their friends and relations in +Aheer, and wish to accompany us, which our people have politely +declined. But I must see the end of them before I set down an opinion. + +I wrote up my journal to-day, and am in good health. My spirits are a +little soured, nay, exasperated into activity by these constant +troubles. It is very hot now. I have hit upon a happy contrivance for +keeping out the sun from my tent. I lay my carpet on the sandy floor of +my tent, and with my table and the frame of my bed I make a wooden +covering over. On the top I place my mattress and thick blankets, I then +lay myself down underneath; and am perfectly protected from the sun +above, whilst the cool breeze enters at the bottom of the tent. There +is, then, not a person in the caravan who suffers so little from the +heat as I do, I recommend the plan to travellers. + +These last four days we have made immense progress towards Aheer--I +mean, its inhabited districts. + +Wednesday 12-1/2 hours 31 miles. +Thursday 13 " 32-1/2 " +Friday 14 " 35 " +Friday night to Saturday morning 9 " 22-1/2 " + ------- + At 2-1/2 miles an hour 121 miles. + +Sometimes, however, the camels went at least three miles an hour. We +have come, indeed, about 130 miles, and nearly all south; which has +brought us so much more within the influence of the climate of Soudan. +On the third day, at noon, the granite region disappeared, and we have +now sandstone again. + +Some of our servants have begun to feel uneasy, and are becoming +troublesome, in consequence of these constant alarms of Haghar. To do +the free blacks justice, they behave well. Yusuf is getting out of +temper, and somewhat changed in manner. He is annoyed at seeing me not +place so much confidence in him as at first; I have reason to be +dissatisfied with his carelessness. Mahommed of Tunis is a good servant, +but at times impertinent. + +I am getting rather more accustomed to our Kailouee companions. They are +dressed in most respects like the Tuaricks, but seem to take pride in +loading themselves with a luxury of weapons. To see one of them running +after a camel is really a ludicrous sight: bow, arrows, sword, gun, +pistols, dagger, stick out in all directions, and it is hard to imagine +how they would behave in the midst of this arsenal if attacked. The +chief of them is En-Noor, a person of mild and good manners--quite a +gentleman, in fact. He is a man of light complexion; but his two +companions are dark as thorough negroes. These individuals, Dedee and +Feraghe by name, are great beggars, and by no means scrupulous in their +conduct. I steadily resist their demands. En-Noor manages to preserve +his dignity by their side. He tells me he will go along with us as far +as Zinder. The Kailouees have some servants with them, very +good-humoured black fellows. Of the Tanelkums I know little; but Haj +Omer, who will accompany us to Kanou, seems a man of courage and tact. +There are two or three venerable old men amongst these Tuaricks, +together with some young ones. They all feel the civilising effect of +visiting Mourzuk. Certainly this people could do much, if they pleased, +for the civilisation of Africa; but at present they are actively engaged +in drawing out of the unfortunate central countries the capital +requisite to maintain even their existence. Of Boro, the sheikh of +Aghadez, I cannot yet venture an opinion. They say, he spoke sharply +against Hateetah and Wataitee. + +To return to the Kailouees. I imagine they must resemble all the men we +shall find in the interior, in one respect--the love of women. They are +eloquent in describing the beauties of the cities of Soudan--eloquent, I +mean, in their sensual style, of which I cannot venture to give a +specimen. The Tanelkums, children of the desert, are, like the Haghars, +far less sensual in their imaginations, and indulge less in amorous +conversation. There are some comely women-slaves in the caravan, but +most of them are very plain. They have in general negro features, but a +few are light in complexion. Their clothing is poor, without any attempt +at finery; but when they have prepared the food of their masters they +take their shares freely. They walk well on the road when necessary, and +being light and slightly made, do not appear to suffer from fatigue. + +As a rule, all these women are modest and decorous in behaviour, and are +treated with considerable respect. No master interferes with the slaves +of another, and most of them are permitted in their turn to ride. A poor +creature belonging to a Tuatee, however, is forced always to trudge on +foot, although its master often takes a lift himself. Two of the women +have infants in their arms--little things, as knowing, to all +appearance, as those that can run. These mothers, with their children, +are treated with great tenderness and care. + +Some of the merchants had as many as three female slaves a-piece; but it +is to be observed, that they are mere girls. The Africans who can afford +to indulge their tastes, abhor women of any age. All their slaves are of +tender years. The older these gentlemen get, the younger they require +their concubines to be. An aged sinner of Aghadez had a mere child with +him. En-Noor is said to have half-a-dozen stout girls running about his +house. Really, to satisfy the passions and sensuality of these Africans, +women should be like the houris of Paradise, and never grow old. Those +that accompanied us were, of course, regarded as mistresses, but were +required also to do nearly all the drudgery of the caravan. Their +masters must have sold much prettier and finer girls at Ghat. + +The name of the place where we are now encamped is, as I have said, +Takeesat, and that of the rocky plain we traversed between Esalan and +Aisou is [_omitted in Journal_]. We shall now have great confusion in +the denominations of places, the Tuaricks using one name and the +Kailouees another. + +_20th._--We rose early, and at four o'clock were already in motion. It +was a long and weary day--fourteen hours of actual travelling; but this, +thank Heaven! is, we are told, the last long stretch of that kind we +shall have to undertake. The country was nearly similar to that between +Falezlez and Aisou; plains or slightly indented valleys. The granite +appeared again, with sandstone on the top. No herbage was found to-day, +except a few scanty bits here and there. + +In the morning our blacks all ran up to a sugar-loaf shaped rock, which +they called their altar or temple, Jama. There they performed certain +strange incantations, after which they descended and began to indulge in +mock-fights, sometimes even simulating an attack upon the caravan. What +was the real meaning of their pantomime it was impossible to make out, +but they amused us exceedingly by their wild gestures and cries. + +The three mysterious Haghars still continued to follow us throughout the +day, declaring that they had no evil intentions, but were merely poor +wayfarers journeying to Aheer. They have made friends with the +Tanelkums, with whom they have more points of resemblance than with the +Kailouees. In appearance and manners they are remarkable enough. They +wear a shield of bullock or rhinoceros hide hanging down on one side of +their camels. During our march, it was evidently their desire to show +off; for they moved in order of battle as they called it, in a line, the +two who had spears holding them bravely up. It was certainly a pretty +sight to see them play off this little exercise. But in the evening, +after dark, they returned from feeding their camels somewhere in the +mountains, and came and bivouacked close to us and our baggage. This +alarmed us, and we sent En-Noor to remonstrate with them. After some +wrangling, they promised to leave us if we would give them supper. We +did so, and got rid of them for the night. + +There was some dispute this evening with the servants about pitching our +tent. I always find them ready to escape this trouble when they can. +However, it appears that En-Noor recommended us not to pitch our tents +that we may not be known during the night, in the event of these three +Haghars having comrades skulking after them, seeking an opportunity to +attack us. + +_21st._--We rose an hour before daylight, and journeyed eight hours, +passing through a country resembling that of yesterday, and a pleasant +valley called Wady Jeenanee, until we arrived at the wells of the same +name. They are scooped out of the sand in a stony bed, and amidst rocks. +The water is very palatable. It has no natural source, but there is an +abundant supply for several months, and even years, after great rains. + +To-day we noticed, for the first time on our journey from Tripoli, the +recent marks of the fall of a great quantity of rain. It had left after +it exactly the same forms on the sandy valley which we see at all times, +quite dry, in the more desolated regions of the Sahara. There cannot be +a doubt that occasionally an immense quantity of rain falls in every +region of this great desert. + +The senna plant was picked up again to-day, and the tree called aborah +appeared in great numbers in the wady, in a corner of which we encamped. + +Although our friends, the three Haghars, promised to leave us for ever +if they had a supper, yesterday they appeared again _en route_ to chat +with their Tanelkum acquaintances. God knows, they may be honest men--in +reality, poor devils obliged to beg their way to Aheer. They wander +about here and there. (I have not seen them this evening, five P.M.) + +Notwithstanding that the blacks of our caravan (mostly slaves) walked on +foot fourteen long, long hours yesterday, they still danced, and sang, +and played games in the evening, and kept it up till midnight! How +capable are these Africans of bearing up against fatigue and toil! Could +we Europeans do as they do? Not even in our own country, and under our +own climate. + +They afterwards made a collection of small articles of clothing, and +other little things. I gave them a handkerchief, with which they were +greatly delighted. + +We had a perfect Soudan atmosphere to-day. The heavens were surcharged +with clouds, and when the sun appeared through them for a few minutes, +it was burning, scorching hot. The abundance of herbage and trees in +Wady Jeenanee combined with these circumstances to show that we had +entered the gates of a new climate. + +_21st._[9]--We started late, seven A.M., and journeyed about six hours, +the camels eating nearly all the way, which gave our Tuarick caravan the +appearance of a company of Arabs. To-day the herbage and trees +increased, in abundance and variety, and we saw several pretty wild +flowers. We observed many Soudan trees, or trees with tropical aspects. +Our route lay through rocky valleys, over a bed of fine granite sand. +The rocks were all blackened, forming a gloomy landscape, especially as +all the morning the heavens were one impenetrable mass of clouds. The +atmosphere felt, at first, damp and suffocating; but at length the wind +got up, and we breathed more freely. + + [9] Here is a day repeated in the journal; but as it is not of + much moment, I have made no alteration.--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer--Hostile Tuaricks--An impudent +Demand--The Merchant Waldee--Prepare for Defence--Threatening +Appearances--Making Friends with Presents--March--Leave +Waldee--Doubtful Visitors--The Camels stolen--The Troop of Assailants +draws nigh--Parley--Their Proposition--We are compelled to a +Compromise--Character of our Enemies--Sinister Rumours again--Proceed +toward Tidek--Wady of Kaltadak--Picturesque Scenery--A Friend from +Seloufeeat--Fresh Mob collects to attack us--Conferences--We are to be +let go scot-free if we become Muslims--We repose--Another Compromise for +Money--Incidents during the Night--Quarrel over the Booty--Enter the +Valley of Seloufeeat--Its Soudan Appearance--Nephew of Sultan +En-Noor--Haj Bashaw of Seloufeeat--We are still uneasy. + + +As we advanced, on the 21st, along the plain between the granite +rocks--trees and flowers starting up thicker and thicker from the ground +to greet our approach--our guides told us that we were at length +entering the inhabited districts of the kingdom of Aheer, or Asben, as +it is indifferently called. This announcement at once substituted +pleasurable for uneasy sensations. We thought no more at all of pursuing +robbers, and gave ourselves up to the delight which always attends upon +difficulties vanquished. The name of the first district is Taghajeet. We +expected to behold groups of inhabitants coming joyfully to welcome us. +Our imaginations had adorned this country almost with the colours of +home. It was about one that we crossed the unmarked frontier. Still +there were rocks around, their angles softened away by trees; still wild +flowers mingled with the herbage on every side; the heavens were +clearing overhead, and the sun shed down a warm mantle of rays upon the +land; yet there were no signs of life. The silence that reigned, I know +not why, introduced ideas of terror into our minds, and we began to gaze +anxiously to the right and to the left. We remembered that this region, +likewise, was inhabited by Tuaricks, though not of the Haghar tribe. +They might be inhospitable, perhaps hostile. All the caravan, by +degrees, seemed to join in our uneasiness; and when at length, just +before we pitched our tent, the cry arose of "The Tuaricks! the Tuaricks +are coming!" it rose as a cry of warning and alarm. Every one snatched +up his weapons as a small group approached; and all waited with +impatience to learn whether they came as friends or enemies. + +Our uneasiness was soon quieted. The newcomers were known to some of our +people, the Tanelkums, and soon scraped acquaintance with us. They paid +a visit to my tent, and I gave them a number of little things, with +which they were very much gratified. There was reason, then, to hope +that our first impressions of security were well-founded, and I began +writing my journal as if we had really arrived in a land of peace. + +Suddenly a man, mounted on a maharee, brought us news, at first in a +friendly way, that an immense number of Tuaricks were pursuing us; and +then, throwing off the mask, in their name demanded of our escort that +they should deliver us up to them. This demand the Kailouees, of course, +rejected with indignation; but the circumstance put our people on the +_qui vive_, and we kept up a fire of musketry for two or three hours +during the succeeding night. + +At sunset, Waldee, the great merchant of Mourzuk, came to the +encampment. His caravan was stopping half an hour higher up. He gave us +much encouragement, and eloquently recommended us to the care of all our +people, the camel-drivers and escort. Waldee has travelled this route +fourteen years. He is just the man to do it,--a small spare fellow with +an expression of much intelligence, which he really possesses. He is the +most respected of all the merchants on this route. + +When he left us, he sent us a present of Aheer dates, which were large +and exceedingly well tasted. + +_22d._--We stopped in the valley of Taghajeet all day, waiting for the +Haghars, but they did not make their appearance. In the morning early, I +distributed powder and shot to about forty of our people. Each had half +a cupfull of powder and twelve shots. It was an immense present for +them, and they were all greatly rejoiced at the gift. It is extremely +difficult for people to obtain powder and shot in these countries. We +made a line of barricades with the boat. Amongst our defenders appeared +the three Azgher Tuaricks,[10] who followed us from Tajetterat, and +overtook us above the well of Aisou. We gave them powder and shot, and +they swore they would die for us. + + [10] Those people are sometimes called Haghar, and sometimes + Azgher, in the journal. The latter appellation is probably + the correct one in this case.--ED. + +In the evening two mounted men came up, and made the same demand of our +escort that the single man had made the night before; namely, that they +should give us Christians up to forty or fifty Tuaricks, collected from +the various districts around. This impudent demand was again rejected. + +The opinion of all the caravan now seemed to be, that this was an idle +threat of some dozen bandits, and that the people generally would not +turn out inimical. + +Merchant Waldee came again this evening, and gave us increased +encouragement not to be afraid. + +The more we saw of this man the better we liked him. He brought for us, +also, the favourable news that the Sheikh of Bornou was on good terms +with his neighbours, the people of Wadai and Darfour. I shall endeavour +to return _via_ these countries to the Mediterranean, if possible. Our +people fired again to-night. In the evening I presented Boro of Aghadez +with a fine burnouse, and his son with a shasheeah and a fateh. I gave a +fateh also to one of his relations, who is travelling with him. He was +highly pleased with the gift, and expressed his pleasure in many +compliments. Of giving gifts there is no end; but this is the time, or +never, when they will be useful. + +_23d._--Before we started, another fellow came riding up from the +rumoured troop of bandits, and demanded of our escort that they should +give us into their hands. Boro remembered his present, and expressed his +gratitude by resenting this insolence with a perfect shower of abuse. + +We advanced nine hours this day, looking behind us as we moved. Our +course lay through a rocky country, and two or three fine valleys, +distinguished chiefly by the immense size of the tholukh-trees. In the +afternoon a large valley opened, amidst a mountainous region; after +traversing which, we pitched tent in a small open space surrounded with +hills, with a snug valley of hasheesh near at hand. + +When we started in the morning, we bade the merchant Waldee adieu. +During the night he had received a courier from Mourzuk, and letters +from the Consul and Mustapha Bey to recommend us to him. Waldee said he +would write us some letters, and send them after us. He leaves his +caravan at Taghajeet, and mounts his maharee for Mourzuk, where he +expects to arrive in the course of fourteen days. + +I wrote by him to Government, and to my wife. + +In the evening, when it was nearly dusk, five mounted men made their +appearance, two of them leading six empty camels. We did not like the +looks of them, but they gave a tolerable account of themselves. + +I treated them to supper--in fact, I am obliged to feed all strangers, +as well as a good number of the caravan. Of feeding these people, as of +giving them presents, verily there is no end. To travel comfortably in +the desert, it would be necessary to possess Fortunatus' purse or +Aladdin's lamp. + +During the night these strange fellows disappeared, which circumstance +naturally aroused our suspicions. About two in the morning the +Kailouees, wishing to start early, began to bustle about in the dark, in +order to collect their camels. They could not find any of them. Great +was the consternation. The Tanelkums instantly ran to their drove, of +which three only were missing, and ours also were found to be safe. They +have driven the camels off, in order to prevent our progress, and give +time to the enemy to come up. + +_24th._--We naturally passed the remainder of the night in the greatest +anxiety of mind, feeling sure that a crisis was now approaching. At +about six in the morning, four men, mounted on maharees, came riding +towards us, and drawing near, boldly summoned our escort to deliver up +the Christians, with all their baggage and camels. The insolence of this +small body assured us that they had some force at hand; but we boldly +told them to go about their business, as we were resolved to defend +ourselves to the last. + +Whilst we were parleying with them, a troop of about forty men, mounted +on their fleet maharees, and equipped for war with spears, shields, and +swords, came trotting rapidly over the hills, hallooing with wild cries, +and challenging our caravan to battle. When the first few moments of +surprise had subsided, two-thirds of our caravan, armed with matchlocks, +pistols, and swords, advanced in a body, and shouted out that they +accepted the challenge. This bold movement staggered the assailants, who +forthwith began to waver and retire. They had evidently expected to +overawe us by boasting. Our people, satisfied with the effect of their +manoeuvre, retired slowly towards the encampment. Presently a small body +of the enemy advanced as a deputation, demanding to parley, and +declaring that they did not come to fight against people of their own +faith. The remainder pretended to march and countermarch along the hills +on either hand, as if to hem us in completely, but kept at a respectful +distance. They saw that we were too strong for them, but called out that +they would go and fetch more people. + +The conferences were now fairly opened, and we found that the hostile +troop was composed of a collection of all the Sheikhs of the +neighbouring districts, with their followers, and several regular +bandits, countenanced by a Shereef Marabout. Our people understood at +once that the affair was far more serious than they had anticipated, and +began to be downhearted. They knew that they could not proceed without +their camels, and from their expressions and looks I could foresee that +the matter at last would have to be ended by a compromise. + +The enemy made various propositions, more or less agreeable to our ears. +The first was simply that we, as infidels, should be given up to be put +to death--an idea which, luckily, nobody seemed to consider proper or +feasible. They then insisted that we should pass on no further, but +should return by the way we had come--also declined. Next, they demanded +that we should become Muslims--a proposition which our people refused +even to mention to us. Finally, they coolly asked for half our goods and +baggage,--no doubt their ultimate object. + +When they found that we would not agree to any of their proposals, but +were determined rather to resist by the strong hand, a compromise was +agreed upon. We paid them in goods to the value of three hundred and +fifty reals, or about fifty pounds sterling, in order to get back our +camels and be allowed to proceed. Even then, however, our caravan lost +nine animals; so that the Kailouees suffer more even than we do. We were +obliged to put up with all this, and were glad enough when the Shereef +Marabout at length professed himself satisfied, and volunteered his +protection for the future. + +A wild and lawless set are these borderers of Aheer. The gathering was +evidently a spontaneous one of all the blackguards of the country. Even +the marabout complains, that during the expedition he has lost his +burnouse, carpet, and fez, whilst he was saying his prayers, pious man! +and beseeching for strength to overcome the infidels! He was on his +knees, when a fellow of his troop came softly up behind, appropriated +his things, mounted his camel, and fled away--"whist," he says, like the +wind, and was soon out of sight, and appeared no more. By the way, the +three Azghers were frightened, or corrupted, in the morning, and went +over to the enemy. They change sides with fortune; and when some shots +were fired by the enemy, by way of bravado and to expedite the +conferences, one of their muskets was brought into play, and of course +my powder! I am happy to reflect, however, that they got none of the +booty this time, and have "'filed their minds" for nought. + +As soon as we got back our camels we proposed to, move on, our people +evincing the greatest anxiety to get away from a place where such +disagreeable things had happened. We accordingly marched about two +hours, the marabouts accompanying us, and then pitched tent for the +night. Sinister rumours, however, were still about, like a flight of +ill-omened birds, and it was said that another troop of people were +collecting further on to intercept our passage to Soudan. During this +halt, grave conferences were held between the Kailouee merchant, +En-Noor, and the marabout, on the subject of these fresh reports. It +turned out that there were several people in the neighbourhood who were +dissatisfied that they had not shared in the booty, and might prove +troublesome. About thirty reals' worth of things were accordingly +selected for them. + +_25th._--We started before daylight, and advanced about nine hours, +pitching tent in the afternoon at three. Our people are in better +spirits, anticipating the termination of the journey. However, we are +not yet free from cause of alarm. The Tanelkums, our companions, begin +to show symptoms of discontent, and in the evening I was obliged to make +presents to the whole of them. They have certainly worked hard for us, +and suffered much anxiety on our account. + +Our course this day lay towards the mountains of Tidek, which form our +southern horizon. The country was a perfect desert. There was nothing +now to tell that we were near Soudan, except perhaps a few tholukh-trees +of gigantic stature. We did not halt upon the track, but, turning aside, +sought a fine valley, where there was abundance of hasheesh. Our camels +greedily devour the luxuriant _bou rekaba_. + +_26th._--As usual, the caravan was got into marching order before +daybreak, and returning to the track we proceeded rapidly. Dawn revealed +to us that we were still watched by the hostile population. Three men, +mounted on maharees, trotted along the hills, evidently in observation. +We soon got out of the desert country, and entered the fine wady of +Kaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation. The huge tholukhs were covered +with a multitude of parasitical plants, that hung in festoons or trailed +down towards the earth. This valley runs winding round about the group +of Tidek mountains, which have long been in view. They say that it +abounds in lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long glades that +opened on either hand, expecting to see some monarch of the forest +stopping to gaze at us as we passed. We discovered, however, only three +black ostriches moving slowly along in the distance,--the first I have +seen wild in Africa. They appeared like dark moving lumps, the heads and +necks not being discernible to the naked eye. Our people did not attempt +to chase them; and the gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewise +suffered to depart in peace. At noon we reached the well of Anamghur, +where we drank some good water. It was scooped out of the sandy, rocky +bed of the wady. A group of five asses had been driven down to it to +drink. + +As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared ahead. A person of +consequence from Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to meet us. +He advanced cordially, and told us that he had determined to be our +protection. We were sorry that any such aid was necessary; but it +appeared from his report that there were more people collecting to +attack the Christians, and get a share of their spoils. In the evening +we encamped in an open space clear of the trees, where we could see all +around us, and use our arms if necessary. Scarcely were we established +when a troop of fifty men came near in a threatening manner, but did not +attack us. After dark, they increased to about a hundred. They consisted +of the sheikhs of the districts, with their followers and lawless men +scraped together from various quarters. Meanwhile our escort, who were +anxious for their own safety as well as ours, had sent on to the City of +Marabouts, Tintaghoda, and had prevailed on several of these holy men to +protect them and us. The night was spent in conference instead of in +repose. The hostile Sheikhs told our marabouts that they did not come to +harm us, but to oblige us to become Muslims, for no infidel had ever, or +ever should, pass through their country. This proposition was at once, +as a matter of business and profession, approved of by our protecting +marabouts. What priest ever shrunk from the prospect of a conversion? + +Matters having come to this point, our escort, camel-drivers and +servants, could not but communicate to us the demand made--namely, that +we should change our religion or return by the way we had come. This +time, likewise, even our own servants prayed that we would accept the +proposition, or seem to accept it, if only for a few days, to deliver +ourselves from present danger. My colleagues, and particularly Dr. +Barth, indignantly and passionately resisted. For my part, I looked upon +the affair with a little more calm, the same thing having occurred to me +on a former occasion in these deserts. I told our people that we would +pay the tribute imposed by the Mahometan law on infidels, or for our +passage through the country, or else that we would take our chance and +return. Upon this our servants exclaimed, with tears in their eyes, "To +return would be certain death!" There was now nothing left for me to do +but to say, with my colleagues, that we would wait patiently for death, +but that to change our religion was impossible. + +Although, of course, the threats that were made against us could not but +produce considerable uneasiness, I always felt pretty sure that the +Sheikhs did not exactly mean what they said, and would come at last, as +had the others, to a money compromise. Yet, during the absence of our +people, who took the message that we were ready to die for the honour of +our country and religion, I passed, as did my friends the Germans, a +most distressing half hour. Every sound we heard seemed to be that of +people approaching to attack us. At length we heard voices, through the +darkness. Our ambassadors were coming back with the message: "It is +arranged, O Consuls, that you shall pay a certain sum of money!" +Children of the desert, you are not the only ones who make a demand for +conscience sake, and then compound for cash! + +We only afterwards learned how this negotiation was carried on with the +enemy. Some dramatic scenes were reported to us by our servants as +occurring between our escort and the assailing troop, mixed with +marabouts. En-Noor, on returning from us after we had declared that we +would die for our religion, drew his sword and cast it on the ground +before the people, calling out to the other Kailouees, "Come now, let us +all die with the Christians!" On the other hand, the fiercest of the +enemy every now and then got up and made as if they would rush at once +and spear us in our tents. Then there was reasoning of every +description, and tremendous quotations from the Koran. The most humane +proposed that we should have ten days' grace to reflect on our situation +before we were put to death. Our servants, who behaved well all through +this trying business, made a reasonable proposition, that we should be +taken to Tintalous to the great Sultan En-Noor, who should decide upon +our case. But this did not suit the purpose of these pious propagandists +of the Muslim faith, who swore that the book ordered them to slaughter +the unbelievers, and at length were graciously pleased to accept the sum +of thirty-five pounds sterling in goods! + +_27th._--In the morning we wished to start at once, and get away from +this scene of our second disaster; but we had to stay to select the +goods which were to pay for our lives, liberties, and consciences. +However, we at length got off; and whilst the bandits were swearing, and +griping one another by the throat, and fighting over the booty, we +pushed hastily on towards Seloufeeat, which, according to our Tanelkums, +is really the first country of Asben. As we entered the valley our +people kept up a running fire, to alarm any one who might feel disposed +to attack us. We had been so much accustomed to inhospitality and +robbers of late, that we confidently expected further difficulties as +soon as we met with the inhabitants. + +After a march of four hours we arrived, and encamped in the +neighbourhood of Seloufeeat. The valley has quite a Soudan appearance, +but solely on account of the presence of the doom palm. There are, +however, a considerable number of other trees, particularly the souak, +the branches of which are eaten voraciously by our camels. It has +beautiful green foliage, and is very bushy and spreading. Wheat, and +ghaseb, and other grain are grown in the valley, where there is +abundance of good water. The wells are like those of Ghadamez,--that is +to say, an upright beam with a long cross-pole, having a stone at one +end and a rope and bucket at the other, serves to bring up the water. + +We found here a caravan about to proceed direct to Mourzuk, and I seized +the opportunity to write by it to Government and to my wife. During the +night some mischievous people again drove away all the camels of the +Kailouees, as well as ours. This disturbed us much, and we anticipated +fresh extortion and plunder; but we were assured that we had now nothing +serious to apprehend. + +_28th._--We stopped here all day to get back our camels. The caravan was +delayed, and I wrote a detailed account of our two affairs to +Government. + +A nephew of Sultan En-Noor came to Seloufeeat this morning, having +heard, probably, of our arrival. By him I wrote to En-Noor, from whom we +expect an answer to-morrow. + +In the evening eleven camels of the Kailouees were still missing, and +six of ours. Nevertheless, our people determined to go on next morning. +I felt much discouraged this evening. A succession of bad affairs was +constantly contradicting the assurances of our escort and their friends; +the people of Seloufeeat were also excessively troublesome: there seemed +no one in the place having authority. At last, near sunset, came forward +a certain Haj Bashaw, declaring that we had all been too badly treated, +and he would obtain for us redress. This man has considerable wealth, +and is in constant communication with Mourzuk, where he sends numbers of +slaves, and possesses property. He probably began to quake for his +property in Mourzuk, fearing the Turks would make reprisals. I went to +bed with the assurance of this man that he would get back for us our +camels; nevertheless, having been deceived a thousand times, I had my +misgivings. Yet I did not forget we had twice been delivered out of the +hands of bandits by our escort and friends, so that we ought not to +despair of seeing a brighter and a quieter time. After midnight I had a +few hours of refreshing sleep. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--People +of Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--A +Flying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forced +Passage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of the +Wady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees from +En-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--Rainy +Season--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--The +Escort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The Walad +Suleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfying +them--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--A +Speech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food. + + +_Aug. 29th._--I rose early, and heard the good news that the camels +missing in the first affair were found and brought to our people. This +filled everybody with good spirits, and we got off as soon as we could +from Seloufeeat. We were obliged to leave the boat in the charge of a +faithful inhabitant, to fetch as soon, as we arrived at Tintaghoda. +Before starting, Haj Bashaw made Yusuf write a letter in his name to +Mourzuk, to the Bashaw Mustapha and Makersee, declaring that he had not +had any news of us or our coming, but that now we should be conducted +safely up to the country of En-Noor. This is the only man who seems to +have any authority in Seloufeeat: the marabouts could do little before +he came forward; the people live in the wildest state of lawless +independence. + +In the morning before starting, the Sfaxee and Yusuf came up to me and +said, "All up to now was lies; but henceforth all is truth. You have +nothing more to fear--there is nothing now but good." This speech I most +devoutly devoured, and things certainly wore a brighter aspect this +morning. But we now anxiously wait news from En-Noor. + +We moved up the valley of Seloufeeat, our spirits buoyant and mounting +high, whilst the air of the morning was soft and fresh, not unlike that +of Italy. After two hours we arrived at the City of Marabouts, or +Tintaghoda. + +There is considerable variety in the physiognomy of the people of Aheer, +whom we have already seen; but in general, they have agreeable +countenances: and as to stature, many of them are very tall, though +apparently not very robust. Some are of light olive complexion, with +straight noses and thin lips; but others, indeed the great number, +approximate to the negro in feature. + +This portion of Aheer is still poor in provisions. Indeed, all these +districts are strictly Saharan. There are fine fertile valleys, but +between them are rocks and complete deserts; the trees, which somewhat +change from the aspect of those in Central Sahara, are the immensely +large tholukhs, some of them covered with parasitical plants; the doom +palm, and the souak tree. I have also seen the ethel hereabouts. + +The houses of Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have, however, a true African +aspect, being thatched with leaves of the doom palm. Some of them are +sheds, with a roof supported by four poles, under which the people +repose in the shade by day and by night shelter themselves from noxious +vapours. + +The most extraordinary reports are beginning to circulate about us and +our affairs. It has been confidently spread about that the three Azgher, +who followed us from Tajetterat, had a letter in their possession, which +they were to show to all the population beyond the Ghat territory, +written by Khanouhen, to the effect that we were to be murdered, as soon +as we got beyond that territory, by whomsoever the attempt might be +made. + +Another report is, that the sixty maharees, said to have been in pursuit +of us at Taghajeet, did actually arrive at that district, but finding us +too far ahead for them they returned; they came by the way of Tuat. +These Haghars were to have fallen upon us during the night, and murdered +all of us, even the Tanelkums, except Oud-el-Khair and two others. There +is a route which leads direct to Tuat from Taghajeet, and also another +from Aisou to Tuat. + +With regard to the marabouts, they seem quiet enough. It would appear +there is an enormous fellow amongst them, who every year, during one +night, flies to Mekka and back again. + +They report to the people that, insomuch as we are recommended by the +great Sultan of the Turks, Abd-el-Majeed, by the Pasha of Tripoli, and +all his marabouts, by the Pasha and great marabouts of Mourzuk, by all +the big and mighty people of Ghat and the Haghars, but more especially +as they have found our names written in their books, and that we were to +come to them and visit their holy city,--with a thousand other such +reasons--they (the marabouts) have determined to receive us with open +arms. The marabouts of all countries pretend to find events written +plainly, or shadowed forth, in their books. + +After giving away about a hundred and fifty pounds sterling, the +greatest part, however, forced gifts, we have received our first present +in Aheer, viz. two melons, some onions, and a small quantity of wheat +this evening, from Haj Bashaw, the influential man of Seloufeeat, +already mentioned. There is still a drawback in this, for the giver knew +the father of Yusuf, and was anxious to show favour to his son, my +interpreter. But the fact must be recorded as something wonderful. + +The people of our caravan, escort and camel-drivers, offer us nothing; +to them it would appear a sin to give anything to a Christian. Such are +the people we travel with. In regard to the matter of presents, God give +me patience with them. + +_30th._--There is no answer from En-Noor, nor are our camels +forthcoming; which things naturally cause us anxiety. But let us hope +for the best, and pray to God to deliver us from all our misfortunes. + +We wait here to-day to see the results, and proceed to-morrow. This +morning I made the account of the forced passage of the expedition from +Taghajeet to this place (Marabouteen). It amounts to the enormous sum of +nine hundred mahboubs--more than one hundred and fifty pounds sterling! +I do not know what Government will think of it; but the expenditure +incurred was certainly to save our lives. + +I gave this morning more presents to our servants, and lectured them on +their duties. All things considered, they have behaved very well. When +they saw the great quantity of goods given away or forced from us by +strangers, they naturally began to think what there would be left for +them, who always remained with us, and worked for us. + +The being chief of an expedition of this kind is certainly no sinecure; +but I am sure that no one who has not occupied a similar post can +conceive the anxieties and disquietudes under which I have laboured +during all these difficult days. Almost ever since our departure from +Ghat we have been in fear, either for our lives or our property. Danger +has ever hung hovering over us, sometimes averted, sometimes seeming to +be turned into smoke; but within this week the strokes of ill fortune +have fallen upon us with increasing fury. We try to persuade ourselves +that there is now nothing more to fear, and every one joins in nursing +what may be a delusion. + +The marabouts indulge the vain hope that, through the influence of the +great En-Noor of Tintalous, we may yet become Muslims. It would appear +that the whole of the inhabitants of the village of Tintaghoda are +marabouts, and so the race of saints is propagated from generation to +generation. Generally, the children of the marabouts are good-looking. +It is said that some of the mischievous boys were the parties who drove +off our cattle. + +In spite of all the sanctity of this place, and its reputation that it +is free from theft, En-Noor of our escort told us yesterday evening to +watch well during the night, that our things might not be stolen. + +We Christians cannot trust our things here. The Sfaxee, however, leaves +his goods in the place, and will go with us to-morrow. Tintaghoda may be +a safe depot for Muslims, not for Christians. + +I have omitted to notice in its proper place, but may record here, that +one of the free black females was lost for a couple of days in the +desert, and recovered after the disaster. + +Whatever we have yet seen of Aheer in a geological point of view, shows +that it is essentially a region of granite rocks, between which are a +series of fine valleys, running one into another. The granite is in +great varieties; there are four specimens of granite marble; some pieces +of pure limestone marble have also been collected; the granite rocks are +blackened by the sun and atmosphere, and wear the appearance of basalt. + +About four o'clock this afternoon there was a cry in the encampment--not +that the Haghar were coming--not that another troop of robbers and wild +people were advancing upon us to attack us; but the cry was, "_El wady +jaee!_" "The wady is coming!" Going out to look, I saw a broad white +sheet of foam advancing from the south between the trees of the valley. +In ten minutes after a river of water came pouring along, and spread all +around us, converting the place of our encampment into an isle of the +valley. The current in its deepest part was very powerful, capable of +carrying away sheep and cattle, and of uprooting trees. This is one of +the most interesting phenomena I have witnessed during my present tour +in Africa. The scene, indeed, was perfectly African. Rain had been +observed falling in the south; black clouds and darkness covered that +zone of the heavens; and an hour afterwards came pouring down this river +of water into the dry, parched-up valley. This incident of Wady +Tintaghoda explains the Scriptural phrase, "rivers of waters;" for here +indeed was a river of water, appearing in an instant, and almost without +notice. It is not, however, necessary to come to the frontiers of Soudan +to witness phenomena, of this nature. Even in Morocco similar sudden +floodings occur every rainy season. + +We had been some time employed in watching this singular scene, when +another cry was heard. This was the announcement that our camels were +coming,--certainly a piece of good news that we had been anxiously +expecting; but it had often been given before, and after the first +excitement we began to feel the sickness of disappointment. However, +four of our camels were in reality brought in; there yet remain out two +of ours and three belonging to the Kailouees. However, our spirits begin +now really to revive. We learn that this act of restitution is +attributable to the marabouts. + +I went to bed on receiving this news; but I had not rested long before +Dr. Barth called out, "Have you heard what has happened? Twenty-eight +maharees are arrived from En-Noor." On further inquiries, I learned that +the Sultan had sent us an escort of twenty men mounted, and eight on +foot; but rain having fallen and still continuing to fall, and the fact +of our being surrounded by water, prevented the approach of these troops +to the encampment. The intelligence of their arrival was brought by a +man well known to the Tanelkums. In the afternoon we had heard that +En-Noor had received a confused account of our two encounters with the +armed bands, and that we had been destroyed by them, or nearly so, but +had not yet received our courier. This circumstance tranquillised us. We +had been anxiously expecting news from En-Noor. The people always speak +of maharees, and not of mounted men; so that twenty maharees are twenty +men mounted on maharees. It rained this evening and during the night: +everything was damp around us. We now begin to feel, indeed, that we are +in a humid atmosphere. + +_31st._--I rose early, but it rained hard, and everybody kept within +tent. I am much delighted with my double Bornou tent, for, although it +is nothing but a species of gauze cotton-work, it still keeps out the +rain. + +We are collecting the names and qualities of the chief among our +assailants, as we shall have to make a formal complaint against them, +not only in order to obtain restitution for our goods, but for the sake +of any future travellers. The people who first attacked us are called +El-Fadeea, or El-Fadayan, and are styled by Yusuf _Arab_ Tuaricks, or +Tuaricks living in tents. This tribe was joined by bandits and a few +adventurers from all the surrounding districts. + +The people of the second attack are called Aghazar: these are also Arab +Tuaricks, or people living in tents. They were joined by people from +Seloufeeat, Tintaghoda, and all the neighbouring places. + +The people appear to have gathered all confusedly together, headed by +their chiefs and countenanced by the marabouts, to destroy the Infidels +who were come to pollute their country; but, undoubtedly, the major part +were excited against us by the hope of plunder. + +All the inhabitants of Ghanet[11] are Maghata, or descendants of the +children of the Tuaricks, Haghar and Azgher, which were born to them by +their slaves. It is these Maghata who were said to be in pursuit of us +under Sidi Jafel. There are many of the same people in the open desert, +for the most part bandits, or at least inclined to that way of life. +They levy contributions on the caravans, and on the settled people when +they can venture. + + [11] This is the oasis of Janet, mentioned previously.--ED. + +The valley, which embraces Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, is said to extend, +by a series of connexions, as far as Zinder,--probably a fanciful +connexion of the people. It is a most picturesque wady, lined with black +granite rocks, some rising high into castellated peaks on the +south-east, with a lower range of hills on the north-west. It is not +above half a mile wide in its mean breadth; herbage does not abound over +all its bed, but trees cover its surface. The water is mostly rain +water; here and there, however, springs are found. All the water is +good, and copious in supply. + +If we may judge from what we have seen of the marks of late rains in +these districts, and the freshness of the herbage, the rainy season is +just beginning in Aheer. There is not yet very abundant herbage, but it +will soon greatly increase. + +The rain continues to pour in torrents, the boundary mountains on either +hand are scarcely visible, and a watery vapour prevents us from tracing +the course of the valley. We have hitherto had to struggle against +mental anxieties, against fatigues, heat, drought, and thirst: we have +now to contend with rain and with floods. Everything is becoming awfully +damp, and everybody looks awfully dismal. I can see, from the lugubrious +countenances of the Kailouees and the blacks, that the rainy season is +their real winter. They go shivering about, and seem as if they were +half drowned. Our Bornou gauze-cotton tent still bears up well, however, +and keeps out the rain. + +I was engaged in admiring the tent, and in reflecting on the changed +region into which we had entered--a region of luxuriant vegetation and +watery atmosphere--when there was again a wild holloa of "The floods are +pouring down upon us! The wady is coming!" Our people, however, +contented themselves at first with shouting, and made no preparations +for the advancing flood; but in a short time they found it necessary to +bestir themselves, and began to make dams and dykes, with the aid of +sticks and hatches. These expedients proved of no avail. The waters +swelled wildly up, higher and higher, and sheets of foaming waves came +whirling in amongst us. I called out to Yusuf to select some high ground +at once, to which our goods might be conveyed. He calmly replied, "The +people still stay where they are;" implying that there was no danger, +that the inundation would subside like the former one, and that we +should escape with a wetting. Not so, however. All the low parts of the +valley were already covered with a turbid stream, that broke fiercely +round the trunks of the trees; and at length the mounting tide +threatened our tent. Yusuf then made a little child's dam around, as if +in sport; but in a few minutes this was swept away, and we found +ourselves standing in the water. + +It was now absolutely necessary to move; and our people, who seemed +until then to have been paralysed by the humidity, as we in northern +climates sometimes are with cold, began to bestir themselves, and to +transfer our tents and baggage to a piece of ground which rose +considerably above the level of the valley, and was surrounded with +rushing waters. The remainder of the caravan imitated us, and we soon +saw them all occupying the summits of little islands, whither the +camels, at least such as did not instinctively take refuge there +themselves, were also driven. This was a good opportunity of seeing a +specimen of African character. The Kailouees made no preparation for the +deluge until the last moment, and then seemed absolutely to make the +worst possible. They rolled their bales of dry goods in the water as if +they were so many logs of wood, although by lifting them up a little all +might have at first been saved quite dry. Meanwhile the black servants +were dancing, singing, and rolling about in the waters, as if some +sudden blessing had overtaken them.[12] + + [12] The black people of Central Africa, whose character and + opinions we do not yet understand, seem to take peculiar + delight in those very natural phenomena which civilised + nations regard as disastrous. Among other instances, I have + seen an old negress, usually gloomy and taciturn, quite + intoxicated by an earthquake. Whilst others were thinking of + their safety, she ran about the courtyard on her hands and + feet, rolling over, laughing and whooping, as if she were a + devil and this was news from the infernal regions.--ED. + +The water still continued to rise, and to foam over the margin of the +island. We were compelled by degrees to retreat towards the centre, and +as there was no sign of abatement, and as the whole valley had become +one rushing river, covered with floating trees,--some shooting singly +along, others entangled into rafts or floating islands, I began to +entertain serious misgivings. Never was there a more perfect picture of +a deluge! It was the Biblical deluge in miniature: and I calculated with +intense interest how many inches additional rise would utterly destroy +our goods, and how many inches more peril our lives. The most gloomy +forebodings troubled me. I had always looked forward to Aheer as a haven +of safety, and instead thereof it had proved to be a place of +persecution. When men had ceased to fight against us, nature began. I +thought I could hear the fanatical people of Tintaghoda say one to the +other, "Ah! they saved their lives by money, but now God comes in to +punish and destroy them." Yet whilst I stood apart and tortured myself +in this wise, our people, children of the day, who take no thought for +the morrow, satisfied that the waves had not yet reached them, were full +of merriment and laughter, and seemed to mock the flood, that still rose +and rose, bending the largest trees, sweeping away the brushwood, and +roaring angrily around the margin of the islands. Perhaps they knew that +their lives, at least, were safe; whilst I reflected that, if even we +could swim to shore, leaving our property to the wild mercies of the +waves, we should land in an enemy's country, without the means of +satisfying the cupidity of the first bandit who chose to attack us, and +would most probably soon be sacrificed. + +I was anxiously watching the progress of the inundation when at last it +seemed to be checked, and no longer to rise. God had not, then, +abandoned us, and we were not driven from the fire to the waters to +perish! The flood remained stationary for awhile, still rolling along +the valley, which it seemed to fill from side to side; then we noticed a +slight decrease, then a progressive and rapid one: hope buoyed up our +spirits, and we thanked the Almighty for our deliverance. As I have +mentioned, I have seen floods before, but never one on so grand a scale +as this, which was truly African in its magnitude and character. + +As if Providence were now resolved to visit us with marked favour, just +at the moment when the waters began visibly to decrease, and patches of +land to appear here and there, the escort sent by Sultan En-Noor came +riding over the neighbouring heights. Our people discovered them, and +shouted, "See, the Kailouees! the Kailouees!" + +The waters rose above the general surface of the wady full two feet and +a-half. Had this deluge come during the night we should scarcely have +saved ourselves; or, at any rate, the greater part of our property and +our camels must have perished. The power of such a body of water rushing +along is tremendous. A great number of houses of Tintaghoda were carried +away, and the inhabitants declared that they never remembered such an +occurrence to have happened before. I can well believe them, otherwise +the site of the town would have been changed for higher ground. Trees +numberless were uprooted, and brought down by the mighty current, which +must have considerably altered the appearance of the valley. We could +already see that the earth was ploughed up in all directions; and when +the inundation was at its height, serious fears were entertained lest +the island on which we stood should itself be swept from under our feet. + +When the waters had subsided a little the nephew of En-Noor came to us +from the town, to see our situation. He then went to meet the Maharees +which had arrived from his uncle, and soon sent to tell us that all was +right, that this party came purposely to afford us protection, and that +it included the sons of En-Noor, their nephews, and a son-in-law, +besides many household servants; in all, thirty-one men mounted, and the +rest on foot. + +In the evening we moved out of the valley, and encamped on the high +ground. The rain continued to incommode us. The things of the Germans +were all wet--I managed to keep mine dry; but our sense of security now +kept up our spirits. + +Towards the evening the whole male population came out of the town to +see the ravages of water, and learn how we fared. There might be fifty +persons, men and boys. These marabouts pretend that when they first saw +the escort of En-Noor, they thought it was an enemy come to attack us +whilst isolated by the floods of rain. + +They said there were some hundred bandits and other lawless men +collected behind the rocks, waiting for us, but on seeing the escort of +En-Noor they had retired by small numbers. Certainly there may have been +some twenty or thirty such people, and, undoubtedly, the escort of +En-Noor produced a salutary effect upon these brigands, as well as upon +the holy maraboutee population who drove away our camels. + +When at the Marabouteen, as Tintaghoda is called, a very fine +gold-embroidered waistcoat was brought by the escort of En-Noor to me, +to ask what it was worth. I guessed about two hundred reals; Yusuf +thought the same. It appeared that this waistcoat was the property of +Abd-el-Galeel, and was taken as plunder during the last expedition of +the Kailouees against the Walad Suleiman. There are several slaves also +at Seloufeeat, who once were the property of these Arabs. According to +the report of the Kailouees they have destroyed all the Walad +Suleiman,--killed them every one. They went against the Arabs ten +thousand strong; some of the enemy, however, are said to have died of +hunger. It is, besides, reported that the people of Bornou assisted in +their destruction. Abd-el-Galeel himself is rumoured to have been +killed. Evidently many of the unfortunate Arabs have been surprised, and +many of them slaughtered; but I cannot believe in their total +annihilation. We shall be better informed at Zinder and Kuka. + +_Sept. 1st._--We started late, on account of our things being all wet. +The morning was as favourable for drying as the day before had been for +wetting, there being a high wind with sunshine. We journeyed on five +hours and a-half, and encamped near some pools of water. A cascade +during rainy weather shoots down from the highest tops of the rocky +mountains. + +Before us was a pleasant valley, wherein were the ruins of huts that had +been carried away by the waters. Ferajee invited me to visit the Water +with him, and I went. In this neighbourhood the rocky heights assumed +their boldest forms, many of the peaks being considerably elevated; all +granite. + +Some people were heard in the evening, when dark, and we fired several +shots. The Tanelkums had seen men skulking behind the rocks during our +short march. + +_2d._--We rose early, and made a march of eight hours and a-half: +country as yesterday. Our Kailouee escort left us at noon, to go to +Aghooou and Janazaret, or Zanairas, their homes. I must write the +characters of En-Noor, Deedee, and Ferajee hereafter. They are pretty +well fixed in my memory. These individuals are amongst the number of +persons who "turned out," to use the vulgar expression, better than we +anticipated from their first transactions with us. + +On encamping, Mohammed, the son-in-law of En-Noor, came to my tent, and +told Yusuf that we must now pay for our escort, as we were within a few +hours of Tintalous, and did not require it more; also that the people +wished to go to their homes, for they had been collected from various +parts of the country. I must observe, that, considering the time that +elapsed between the departure of the courier from Seloufeeat and the +arrival of the escort at Tintaghoda, these people had been collected +very quickly, which showed En-Noor to be a man of business and +authority. + +I expected we should have some trouble to satisfy thirty-one people. +Yusuf, aided by the Tanelkums, sorted out about eighty-seven reals' +worth of goods. This was offered as sufficient, but did not content even +the chief persons, much less the smaller gentlemen. We then added +another burnouse, and other things, making up about one hundred reals. +This the chiefs accepted; but not so the little men. They stormed and +swore; and some of them even ran to seize our bales of goods. However, +whatever we had given we should have had the same results, and we must +expect similar quarrels all through Africa until our journey's end. I +observed, at last, that many took their portions and retired, and I felt +confident that all would finish without violence being done us. + +When I had been in bed two hours, half-sleeping and half-waking, I +turned round my head, and saw my tent full of people. I had not heard +them come in. They were the Germans, Yusuf, Mohammed Tunisee, and other +people. They were all busy examining the scattered contents of a bale of +goods. I asked what was the matter, and was told briefly that some of +the _canaille_ of our escort had carried away a bale of Dr. Barth's +goods, but that the chief had made them restore the greater part of the +spoil. In the first moments I could not help laughing. It was certainly +comical to be robbed by one's own escort. We had now thirty-one +chaouches for two whom we obtained in Tripoli. On this I went to sleep. + +_3d._--Early in the morning Mohammed En-Noor paid me a visit, and +promised me that all the things should be restored--not the smallest +thing should be lost. + +I looked about, and saw that the greater number of our escort had +disappeared during the night, and gone to their homes. We now commenced +our last stage to Tintalous. Mounted on my camel, I could not help +reflecting that we were tormented to the very doors of the dwelling of +En-Noor, that the people seemed determined we should have no rest till +we arrived there. Afterwards, peradventure, we may find a little repose; +but who can tell? + +The rain incommoded us as we advanced. However, in two hours we arrived +at the little village of Asara, where half-a-dozen inhabitants greeted +us with a stare; and an hour afterwards entered the broad and spacious +valley of Tintalous, firing a salute as we did so, in compliment to the +inhabitants. + +We had heard much of the great city of Tintalous; and I confess that, +though accustomed to desert exaggerations, my mind had dwelt upon this +place so long, that I expected a much more imposing sight than that +which presented itself. This mighty capital consisted of a mass of +houses and huts, which we calculated to be no more than a hundred and +fifty in number, situated in the middle of the valley, with trees here +and there interspersed. It was nothing but a large village. Still, as +the termination of our journey for the present, and its bearing a name +which has been hitherto thrown down at haphazard anywhere towards the +centre of the southern Sahara, we hailed it with delight. Both huts and +houses wore a truly Soudan character, and I felt that to a certain +extent the object of the Mission was already accomplished. + +Mohammed En-Noor chose us out a good place for an encampment, upon some +sand-hills overlooking the entire country. When we had pitched tent, Mr. +Yusuf Moknee was despatched to carry our compliments to the great man of +the town, Sultan En-Noor. This distinguished personage he found laid up +with rheumatism, and unable to receive us as we desired. However, he +expressed a wish to see Dr. Overweg in his character of medical man, and +made a long harangue to Yusuf, the substance of which was, that inasmuch +as we had come from Constantinople,[13] from Tripoli, from Fezzan, from +Ghat, in peace and safety, why should he think of eating us up and +destroying us, like the people of Taghajeet and others?--"No; let the +Christians rest in peace. I will now protect them--let them not fear. If +I had not been ill, I would have come myself, and fetched them from +Taghajeet, and no one should have touched them. Now, I will take them +myself to Zinder, or send my sons with them. They shall be protected on +their journey to Bornou and Soudan." + + [13] Where he got this news I cannot tell. + +I shall only observe on this, that I do not think Sultan En-Noor could +have brought us clear through the countries of Taghajeet and Tidek. We +might have paid something less, but we must have paid. However, we felt +glad on hearing the report of this speech, and waited patiently for the +evening supper of the great man; but it did not come, to our great +disappointment. The Tanelkums said that this was a kind of home for +them, and that En-Noor always sent them a supper on the evening of their +arrival. When I saw these good people supperless, I considered that +En-Noor would not give one supper without the other, and was not +prepared for both. + +We felt our case to be rather hard, especially the Germans; for they had +nothing of their own to eat but dry kuskusou and onions. I was a little +better off. We could get nothing from the town during the day, not even +a fowl or eggs, nor even a bit of cheese. + +Nevertheless, we had been told that everything was abundant in this +place. It appears all the sheep are at a distance, out to graze; as for +bullocks, there are none. Dr. Overweg drew out his bottle of port wine, +and we three Europeans soon made an end of that, and retired for the +night in pretty good spirits. + +Dr. Overweg and Yusuf calculated the number of people who were reported +to be in pursuit of us from Tajetterat to the Marabouteen, at three +hundred and sixty. The passage of the expedition from Tajetterat to +Tintalous has cost the Government about one hundred and fifty pounds +sterling, at the least. I cannot get over this. However, let us raise +our hearts in thankfulness to Almighty Providence, who still watches +over us, preserves our health, and saves us from destruction. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Promises of the Sultan--Yellow-painted +Women--Presents--Anecdotes--Prepare to visit En-Noor--Our +Reception--Dialogue--Seeming Liberality of the Sultan--Greediness of his +People--No Provisions to be got--Fat Women--Nephew of the +Sultan--Tanelkum Beggars--Weather--A Divorced Lady--Aheer Money--Our +Camels again stolen--Account of the Tanelkums--Huckster Women--Aheer +Landscape--Various Causes of Annoyance--No News of the Camels--Anecdote +of my Servants--Storms--Revolution in the Desert--Name of the +Country--Dr. Overweg--Money and Tin--Saharan Signs--Habits of the +Rain--Burial of a Woman--Demands of Es-Sfaxee--Salt-cakes of +Bilma--People of Tintalous--Wild Animals--List of Towns and +Villages--Population of Aheer and Ghat. + + +_Sept. 4th._--This morning I sent Yusuf with our recommendations to +En-Noor. He returned in the best possible humour, repeating that the +Sultan was determined to protect us, and see us safe to Soudan and +Bornou. + +A freed black came into my tent, played on his one-stringed fiddle, and +sang an extempore song for the protection of the Consul. I gave him a +handkerchief. It appears that he is from Tunis. + +Yesterday, some specimens of the women of the lower classes of this town +came to our encampment. I was astonished to see them such barbarians as +to daub their faces with yellow ochre. I did not expect this in the +Mahommedan country of Aheer. They had a little ghaseb, a few onions, and +other little things to barter. It is the most difficult thing in the +world to deal with them; and it requires as long to exchange things of +the value of a penny, as for two London merchants to agree about +merchandise of the value of a hundred thousand pounds! + +When I had paid the En-Noor escort, I made a present to Yusuf and Said. +To the former I gave a fine burnouse (value thirty-four mahboubs), and +told him I did so as a compensation for the extraordinary difficulties +which we had encountered on the road from Ghat to Aheer, but that I +could not write to Government for a present for him unless we could make +some treaties with the inhabitants and princes of Central Africa. To +Said I gave a veneese and a lecture. Our servants have not behaved so +well as they ought to have done, considering that they are treated so +much better than the servants of Muslims. + +Anecdotes of our late adventures are still in circulation amongst us, +and I have learned some new ones to-day. The _naivete_ of one of them is +extreme; but I can do more than allude to it. One of our party +transgressed a custom which the Mahommedans have absurdly made +obligatory. Great indignation was excited, even amongst the escort sent +for our protection by En-Noor; and one of them exclaimed: "If he do the +same thing again, and do not follow the way of us Muslims, I will send +an arrow through him." + +During the night of the second affair, Oud-el-Khair used this nice +argument: "What will be gained if you do kill these three Christians? +There are plenty more in the English country!" Many topics of a similar +character were resorted to. + +Some of the Tanelkums leave us to-day. We have to pay them two reals a +camel-load for bringing us from Tintaghoda to Tintalous. We have hired +of them eleven camels in all. The original agreement was to carry our +goods and baggage from Mourzuk to Tintaghoda, for which we paid dear. + +Having heard that the great En-Noor would receive me to-day or +to-morrow, as I pleased, I determined at once to see him, and made ready +the presents for his highness. We had some difficulty in making the +selection. At length we amassed a variety of things, of the value of one +hundred and twenty-two mahboubs prime cost, or about fifty-two reals +value here. + +At the Asar (or 3 P.M.) I dressed, and went off to see the great man, +accompanied by my German colleagues. On entering the village, I at once +recognised in a long mud-shed the Sultan's palace. It seemed, indeed, a +palace compared with the circular hasheesh huts by which it was +surrounded; and in that direction, accordingly, we bent our steps. On +gaining admission, we found the mighty potentate half-dozing on his +couch. He woke up as we entered, and sitting upon his hams, politely +excused himself for being found _en deshabille_. To remedy this state of +things as much as possible, he immediately wound round his head a black +band or turban; and having thus improved his toilet, bade us sit down. I +took my place very near him, and observed his appearance with some +interest. He was a venerable-looking black, but, like most of the +Kailouees, had something of an European cast of features. They say he is +about seventy-eight years old, and manifestly suffers the infirmities of +that great age. + +The dialogue was begun by the Sultan asking us how we were in health, +and whether we had not now more quiet than down on the road? Then he +added, that he was himself very poorly, but that at this season of the +year this was nothing uncommon. Being in a garrulous mood, he allowed us +little time to reply, and went on with a string of compliments. Of the +state of his own country he said, "There is now a general fermentation +throughout all the districts of Aheer. The people have thrown off the +yoke of their sultans or magistrates, and the roads are infested with +bands of robbers." In fact, it would appear that the inhabitants of this +out-of-the way kingdom have just fallen into the crisis of a revolution. +What grievances brought about this state of things we have not yet +learned; but, unfortunately for us, we have arrived at a most insecure +season. + +Of the people of his own district the Sultan said, "You have nothing to +fear from them, except that thieves may come in the night. Beware of +them; and fall upon any one who may come near your tents after dark. +There may be people who will slink from the neighbouring towns to rob +you; take care and watch during the night." Upon this I asked him for a +couple of servants as guards, but he replied that it was not necessary. + +Of the Tanelkums he observed: "It will be better when they are gone, for +many strangers come to them, known neither to you nor to me; and they +may rob you." This was an excellent observation, for on the road I +always found that the Haghar strangers, the bandits, and all the idle, +low characters, who might follow the caravan, never failed to make +friends with our Tanelkums, and thus gained a footing to carry on their +treacherous designs. + +The greater part of the interview was thus occupied by a little oration +on the part of this respectable Sultan, who wound up by saying that he +hoped, if it pleased God, that we should now enjoy some repose, and +afterwards be conducted safely to Zinder and Soudan. + +Observing that the dialogue was flagging, I caused the presents we had +brought with us to be laid out. The Sultan examined all the articles +carefully and quietly, but said not a word. Then his son-in-law informed +us aside that it was now time to retire. We did so with many +compliments, trusting that our visit had produced a favourable +impression. I was very anxious to know what was thought of the +present,--the largest we have yet given, much larger than what was +received by either Hateetah or Wataitee. I sent two of my servants about +to pick up the news in town. I was not disappointed; I hoped to please +his highness, and succeeded. He was greatly delighted; and, moreover, +displayed immense generosity for an African. Immediately we had retired +he called together all the great people of the town, and thus addressed +them: "See the fine present these Christians have brought me. I shall, +however, only take a blue burnouse for myself. The rest I give to you. +Take all else." The notables were greatly pleased at being called in to +share in the gifts, and exclaimed, "The Consul is a fine man; a man of a +large heart." So far, so good. But some of the lesser men were heard to +say, "Ah! now the Christians are in peace, and yet they give us nothing. +How much did they give away, and yet get no rest!" Sure enough; but +having been thus forcedly generous, we had now scarcely anything left to +give. It would require a thousand camel-loads to satisfy all the tribes +and people in this route, even if their exigencies did not rise in +proportion to our wealth. + +We have not yet been able to procure any provisions in Tintalous. After +a journey of two months, during which we have been obliged to feed the +whole caravan, Kailouees and Tanelkums, to say nothing of the robbers +and bandits, who were pleased to levy this kind of tribute upon us, we +arrive at a friendly town, and can find nothing to eat! This is really +too bad. Fortunately, I put away three bottles of olive oil in the +spirit-boxes. With these and my little macaroni I may manage, perhaps, +to subsist until provisions can be found. But my servants have finished +their last _hemsa_, and the Germans have nothing left. Our last resource +is our biscuits, which I am sorry we are obliged to eat in this early +part of our journey. This supply of biscuits has certainly cost us much +in carriage--many hard dollars; but nevertheless we have found it +excellent for our health, and it now promises to save us from +starvation. We had heard contradictory reports on the road; some people +saying we should find everything in Aheer, and others nothing. The +latter prophecy seems likely to turn out true. + +There is not much herbage about where we are, so we are obliged to send +away the camels some distance to feed. It appears to be only the +beginning of the rainy season in Tintalous. We have passed through much +finer districts in Aheer than this; e.g. that of Taghajeet, where we +observed fat women and fat sheep! But we have not yet seen the +enormously fat women that Mr. Gagliuffi described. This, of course, +would always be difficult for us, except in our capacities as +physicians. Dr. Overweg has the best chance of this piece of good luck. + +_5th._--We are much troubled with a nephew of En-Noor, the same that +acted as the courier from Seloufeeat to Tintalous. We gave him a white +burnouse, and he is worrying Yusuf to let him have a finer and better +one. This individual has given us more trouble than anything else in +Tintalous. Little things here, as elsewhere, prove more annoying than +great things. To set matters straight, we have offered him a better +burnouse, but he is not yet content. + +The Tanelkums are also very troublesome. I always saw that we must +beware of them, for they will never let us rest, if they can help it, +whilst they are with us. Beg, beg, beg; this alone describes their +conduct towards us. + +All the people we have had about us seem to have considered us their +lawful prey, and seek to gain their ends, if not by violence, at least +by continual importunities: still it must be acknowledged that the +Tanelkums rendered us considerable service on the road. But, even +without this claim, they would, no doubt, have still pursued the same +system of eternal begging. + +This day and yesterday we had thunder, lightning, and much rain. The sky +was covered with clouds, yet the thermometer rose at half-past three in +the afternoon to 82 deg. in our tent. I walked a little before the tent +early this morning, to keep up my bodily vigour. I had a little internal +pain yesterday. If I suffer in Africa from disease, it will most +probably be from dysentery. God grant that I may escape, and be grateful +for his mercy! + +Sultan En-Noor yesterday observed, respecting the passage of Christians +through these countries, "that after a short time the feelings of the +people would subside, and nothing more be thought of us." This may be; +but it will require the passage of many Christians before the tendency +to fanaticism is sufficiently curbed to render the road safe for them. + +I mentioned in my diary at Mourzuk, that one of our blacks had exercised +the privilege of divorce with respect to his wife. This lady did not +leave the caravan, but has since passed from tent to tent, as the +caprice of fortune carried her. She was first taken up by Sakonteroua; +then by En-Noor, our Kailouee guide; and afterwards by some other +person. Yesterday I saw her in the tent of the Sfaxee. The poor woman +submits to the inconstancy of Fortune with marvellous fortitude. She is +now quite merry, and inclined to play the coquette. Poor thing! Let us +be thankful for her that she has been granted this elasticity of temper, +and that she is willing to the last to cheer gloom of whomsoever will be +cheered in return for a little tenderness and protection. + +I insert a note upon the money used here: + +The large dollar (douro) 7 Tunisian piastres. +The small dollar 5 Tun. piast. (in Mourzuk). +The large dollar 3 metagals. +The small dollar 2 metagals (in Tintalous). +One metagal 1000 wadas (in Tintalous). +One mahboub 7 Tun. piast. (60 paras in Mourzuk + and Tripoli). +One metagal 40 draa[14] (in Aheer and Soudan). + + [14] The draa is _an arm_ of strips of cotton stuff, about + two inches long. + +I was engaged in setting down this information, when intelligence was +brought me that our camels had again been carried off. This affront was +offered us yesterday at noon, during a storm of rain, before my visit to +the Sultan; but Yusuf had thought it best to keep the matter concealed +from me, hoping restitution would be made before I heard of it. I sent +him immediately to lay our case before the Sultan. So it seems that we +are to be hunted here, even, in our repose under the protection of +En-Noor! It is impossible to tell how we shall get safely to Zinder. Our +boat is still at Seloufeeat. Yusuf is gone to see En-Noor. + +Naturally I feel very much annoyed about the missing camels. They were +stolen, it seems, not only in the middle of the day, but at a distance +of not more than a quarter of a mile from the residence of En-Noor! This +is too bad, really too bad. Are we never to have any repose? + +In the evening, as a slight consolation, we were fortunate enough to +purchase some provisions. The German got two goats, and I some samen. I +also borrowed ghaseb until we could buy. + +_6th._--I got up in better health this morning, and felt the benefit of +the goats'-flesh broth. I observe that it does not rain during the +night; the showers come on generally in the afternoon. The mornings are +dry, fine, and hot. This morning, at half-past seven A.M., the +thermometer stood under the tent at 79 deg. Fahr. + +The Tanelkums, by the way, left us yesterday evening. They all return in +the course of fifteen days; some of them go on to Zinder, and others +make their way back to Mourzuk. Haj Omer quarrelled desperately with +Yusuf before he started. + +I may here make a few observations on these curious people. Generally, +the Tanelkums are reckoned amongst the most effeminate and civilised of +the Tuaricks of the north; and, indeed, such appears to be their +character, as developed in our transactions with them. Some of them have +more the manners of merchants than camel-drivers; and the mercantile +character always tames men in the desert. Throughout their journey with +us they were at all times polite, and at last even became quite amiable. +During the two affairs which we had with the robbers, their conduct was +regular and brave: once or twice only they seemed to waver. But +probably, had their own interests been imminently exposed, they would +have abandoned us to save themselves, at which we should not have been +surprised. Had there been a regular battle, in which they had taken +part, the road would certainly have been closed to them ever afterwards. + +Like all Tuaricks, these Tanelkums are great beggars, and such of them +as were with us allowed no opportunity to escape of getting something +out of us. They are always accompanied by a few Haghars or Azghers. In +features they are for the most part European; a few only are marked by +negro characters; but nearly all are very dark in complexion. They are +generally good-looking, tall, and slightly made. Their manners are quite +Tuarick, and they speak a regular Tuarick dialect. They also speak a +little Arabic, and understand the Hausa. As to religion, they are very +devout and superstitious, and remain long at their prayers. + +The huckster-women of the town continue to visit us, bringing their +small wares. Many of them have their faces painted very picturesquely +with green and yellow. They are mere negroes in features. These women +bring very small quantities of the dark-brown rice of Soudan, with +ghaseb, onions, and other little things. + +I find that our servants are to-day in better spirits, because we have +got a supply of provisions. I repeat again, that the Germans and myself +enjoy tolerably good health, but none of us can be said to be in a state +of robust bodily vigour. + +This portion of the landscape of Aheer, if I may use the term landscape, +does not differ materially from the first which we entered. The rocks +are all granite, and of one colour. + +The greater part of the trees are tholukh and souak. The hasheesh +consists chiefly of the _bou rekabah_. + +In the valley I observe a fine old specimen of the Soudan tree, called, +in Bornouese, _k[)a]raghou_. The little black-and-white bird which has +followed us all through the desert from Mourzuk still appears here, and +sings a little. + +It is difficult to describe the state of mind in which I write down all +these things. Here we are helplessly encamped, our camels driven away, +and no signs of their return. Certainly En-Noor sends us promises that +he will do what he can for us; but though we do not doubt his goodwill +we begin to be uncertain of his power. He is still suffering from +rheumatism and fever, and they tell us he is not able to receive +strangers. Let us hope that this seclusion bodes no ill to our +interests. Some of his female relations came this morning to ask for +little presents. I gave the mother of Mohammed, who commanded our +escort, a handkerchief. This young man has, we are told, gone out this +morning alone to search for our lost camels. Meanwhile, in the hope that +our property may be restored to us, I propose to write to Zinder for an +escort. It is better and more agreeable to pay escorts than robbers in +these countries. But I must wait for the recovery of En-Noor. They tell +us now that there are no robbers or bandits along the Soudan route at +all; and the proof cited is, that the smallest caravans pass in safety. +The property of Christians, however, will probably be considered as +common property, the lawful prey of every one who may be disposed to +possess himself of it. This news of peace, therefore, concerns us not. +We may still have to buy our way. + +The thermometer under the tent this evening, at an hour after dark, was +81 deg. Fahrenheit. + +_7th._--I rose late, after a more refreshing sleep than usual, and felt +much better in health. The sky was overcast with thick clouds; and the +thermometer stood at 77 deg. at seven A.M. My first question was, whether +any news had been heard of the camels; but I only learned that on the +previous day many people had gone in search of them, scouring the +country. The servants notice that I am much depressed, and endeavour to +cheer me. On the whole I must say that they show considerable good +feeling. + +I remember now with pleasure, that when we were attacked on the road and +I appeared with arms amongst them, they always insisted upon my going to +my tent, exclaiming: "Go, O Consul, to your tent; rest there: you shall +not fight." Some added: "Let them kill us first; then you may fight if +you please: but whilst we are living remain in your tent!" These were +not mere words, but expressed sympathy and fidelity. I ought to mention, +that all along this journey I went among the people by the name of +Consul Yak[=o]b, whilst Dr. Barth was known as the Reis, and Dr. Overweg +as the Taleb. + +On this occasion these poor fellows threw words of consolation to me in +the midst of their bartering for provisions, which at the present moment +was their greatest care, if I except that of eating them. They have been +living on short commons, and have suffered as much as we have. Want of +regular food may have had an effect on me. I find that my hopes of good +health are to be disappointed. I am obliged to keep my bed this +afternoon, and to refrain from nourishment. Meanwhile a storm again +comes on, laden with sand, which covers everything. Then follows violent +rain, which lasts until late in the evening. + +As I lay, troubling myself with apprehension of the Kailouees, En-Noor +of our escort came to pay us a visit. He says he has been to his own +town, and promises us better fortune higher up towards Soudan than we +have hitherto had. He is himself about to start with a large caravan for +Zinder, in about twenty days. Among other news, he tells us of the +progress of the insurrection. The tribes passed some distance to our +right a few days ago, moving towards Asoudee and Aghadez, to instal a +new Sultan. The revolution is now at its height, but may soon be brought +to a close. It is fortunate that Tintalous lay out of the way of these +rude desert revolutionists, as a visit from them might have been +attended with evil consequence to us. + +The excitement caused by this intelligence was a little calmed by the +report that our camels had been heard of in the direction of Aghazar. +Our friend Mohammed is in full pursuit of them, with fair hopes of +procuring their return. En-Noor says that we shall certainly get them +back,--all; but he adds the qualifying phrase, _Inshallah!_--if it +please God! Meanwhile "patience," as my comforter advises me. He is +quite a narrative man, and enlarges on geography. According to him, +Asben is the Soudan name for all this country, whilst it is known as +Aheer by the people of the north. + +_8th._--I felt much better this morning, having got rid of the +diarrhoea. The weather was very damp, and the thermometer at six A.M. +stood at 72 deg.. At one o'clock it rose to 90 deg., but still there was cool +air flying about the tent. The sky remained overcast all day, but birds +were singing as if it were the opening of the Aheer spring. + +Dr. Overweg remarks truly, that you cannot shoot a man in this country, +even if he knocks you down and robs you; for that would be the murder by +an infidel of a Muslim, and the whole population would rise up against +you. The observation may become a practical one of these days; and +submission will prove to be the only remedy, whatever may happen. + +Another result of practical observation! We shall have to destroy our +tin biscuit-chests, for all the people swear that they are full of +money. Our own servants go so far as to say that these chests, by +exciting the curiosity and cupidity of the people, have been the causes +of most of our misfortunes. In whatever case, every European travelling +through these countries will be considered to have half his baggage +consisting of gold and silver. I have been telling the people all along +I have not any money, but no one quite believes me. + +In this country, by the way, and all Saharan countries where many +languages are spoken, a great deal is done by signs. The sign of the +crooked forefinger represents the crouching of man and beast under +sickness; but no sign is more common than which represents the large +Spanish dollar, namely, forming a circle with the thumb and forefinger, +and turning the thumb downwards. + +Escort En-Noor, as I am obliged to distinguish him, returns to his place +this night, and takes with him three or four camels, to give them +something to eat; they are starving here near the town. I settled with +him for the thirty-seven reals of Wataitee in goods, not money;--so the +Queen's property goes! + +The peculiarity of this locality at the present season of the year +appears to be, that it rains every afternoon, beginning about three +P.M.; the showers being preceded by a few puffs of strong wind, and +continuing till an hour before dark. This is fortunate for us, for we +know how to prepare ourselves for circumstances. Under tent we have a +most drenching dampness during the night, continuing till the sun gets +well up next morning. The people say that the rain has given over in +Soudan. The season is, therefore, later here. The rain, if I may use the +expression, would seem now to travel north; it has, however, began up in +the higher regions surrounding Constantine. When I was there, I believe +in August 1846, it had already set in; and now it will soon begin in +Tripoli. At nine A.M. we begin to dry our clothes, and we get pretty +well dried and aired by the time the rain begins again in the afternoon. + +The day before yesterday a woman died in Tintalous, and was carried to +the grave solely by women. This was considered an extraordinary thing by +the Moors of the coast, but I see nothing extraordinary in the +circumstance. The fact is, the Moors think the men ought to do +everything except bear children and perform the drudgery of the +household. + +We have little communication with the town, the rain cutting us off from +it and its inhabitants. A flood of water pours down the valley every +evening, after which the ground continues all night and all next day in +a state of wet mud. + +_9th._--I rose without receiving any good news. On the contrary, Mr. +Sfaxee, who has always professed such disinterestedness, begins to hint +demands. I find that I shall have to pay him as much as the other +people. Escort En-Noor, by the way, was delighted with the little +present I made to him of a pair of coloured scissors for his wife. The +thermometer a little after mid-day rose to 94 deg. Fahr. and 27 deg. 30' of +Reaum. In the afternoon the rain only threatened, and we had but two or +three puffs of wind. + +We hear that the Sultan is better; and from his servants we collect that +he is not willing we should go on to Zinder unless escorted by himself. +Certainly this arrangement would please us under ordinary circumstances; +but we hear that it would detain us two or three months in Aheer, which +will never do. To-day I made acquaintance with the round salt-cakes of +Bilma. They consist of a very rough species of salt, like so many big +round grains of the coarsest sandstone. One that I saw was of a dark +brown colour, extremely dirty, about half-a-foot in diameter. Apparently +these lumps are very compact; they serve as money both in Soudan and +Tintalous. The greater part of the revenue of Aheer is derived from this +salt carrying between Bilma and Zinder. + +_10th._--This morning I felt much better, as well as I have ever done +since leaving Tripoli. One adapts one's self to any climate by degrees. +I took courage even to read a little, and went over Jackson's "What to +Observe," among other things. But my mind is still troubled about our +future course of proceeding. It is impossible to bring Sultan En-Noor to +any arrangement. He still shelters himself from our importunities under +the plea of ill health. Almost every morning we have a few visitors from +the town. The people are not troublesome, except that they show a good +deal of prying curiosity to see the faces, forms, and actions of +Christians. We learn that scouts are still out after our camels, +hitherto without success. I am afraid they have been driven far away; +and begin to doubt our ever setting eyes on them again. + +The morning was clear and dry, with a little cool wind breathing up the +valley. The country was covered with fresh herbage; trees were budding +and birds singing, as in spring. Yesterday evening we had a visit from a +wolf, who was looking out for our two or three sheep for a supper, but +the watch was too well kept. There are many wild animals in Aheer, but +we have hitherto seen but few. Very pretty doves fly about our tent; and +Dr. Overweg shot some small birds to send home. + +Aheer, in general, must be considered as a part of the Southern Sahara, +or Great Desert. Any country not producing periodic crops of grain, +either by the annual rains or by irrigation, comes under this +denomination here. Aheer answers the description perfectly, although +there are some exceptions. Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have annual crops +of grain produced by irrigation. + +I have obtained a list, such as it is, of the towns and villages +surrounding Tintalous. Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda are not mentioned, as +they lay in our route to this place. My informant declined to give any +account of the numbers of the population, in all cases.[15] + + [15] He may have refused from superstitious motives. Muslims are + peculiarly sensitive on this subject. In Egypt, Mohammed + Ali encountered considerable passive resistance in his + endeavours to procure a census.--ED. + +From Tintalous, as radii, are spread around the towns and villages +of--As[)a]ra, two hours west; As[)a]r[)a]ra, a place near Asoudee; +Gh[)a]loulaf, four hours south; Asoudee, six hours south-south-west; +T[)a]nous[)a]m[)a]t, two hours west (forty people); Agh[)o][)o][=o]u, +two hours north (country of Escort En-Noor); T[)a]n[=a]s[)a]m[=a], four +hours east (one family); Agh[)a]dez, six days south-west; Baghzem, two +days south; Agh[)a]l[)a]gh, a few hours further south (fifty people); +Bind[)a]ee, one hour and a-half east (no people); Teelaou, four hours +east; Tegheda, a walk for shepherds, three hours west; Asoud[)a]r[)a]ka, +five hours south (forty or fifty); Terken, seven hours west (not known); +Time[)e][)a], four hours west (fifty, and many dates); Doumous, one day +west; Agharghar, two days west; Oud[)a]ras, two days south-south-west +(place for shepherds); Abasas, two days south (a place for shepherds); +Tabernee (a well), two days south; Shouw[)a]r[=e]k[)e]d[=e], or +Touwerkedad (on the side of Tabernee), one day south; Maree, one day +south (place for shepherds); Ar[)a]s[=a]mad[)a]n, by the side of Maree, +south (well); Shintaghalee, in Wady Tentaghemea, near the above, south; +Azanwazgh[)e]r, near the above, south; Zanairas,[16] two days +north-east. + + [16] Zanairas is the native place of Ferajee and Deedee, where + Lousou exercises authority. This list is still very + imperfect. It is difficult to find a man who will give + correct and full information. As will be seen, my informant + gave me wadys and sheep-walks for towns, in many cases. [At + the end of the volume will be found more complete + information on the positions of places in Aheer, + subsequently obtained by Mr. Richardson.--ED.] + +It would have been very interesting to collect authentic information as +to the population of many places in Aheer. I suspect the number of +inhabitants is very small indeed. I had already been powerfully +impressed with the paucity of the population of the districts of Ghat, +the desert region occupied by the Azgher, and had been led to compute +that they cannot contain in all more than a couple of thousand people. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Zinder Caravan--Negress playing "Boree"--Curious Scene--Objects +of Barter--Fresh Annoyances--Remarks on our Reception in +Aheer--En-Noor--Asoudee--Better News--Fresh Extortions--En-Noor +disappoints us--Europeans taken for Spies--Things in demand at +Aheer--Exercise--Overweg's Patients--Wild Animals in Aheer--Kailouees in +dry Weather--Robbing a Prince--Ghaseb and Ghafouley--Aheer +Cheese--Mokhlah Bou Yeldee--Our Wealth noised abroad--Alarm at Night--A +fresh Attack--Said's Gallantry--Disorderly Protectors--Thirteen +Robbers--Amankee--Loss of my Tea--Country of Thieves. + + +_10th Sept. continued._--Yusuf has been to the town, but has come back +without any authentic news of the departure of the caravans for Zinder. +He says, however, that En-Noor is better; and that it is reported that +the first caravan will go in fifteen or twenty days, and the second and +largest, with which En-Noor himself talks of setting out, about twenty +days afterwards. + +I was disturbed this evening from my repose on the dry sand under the +pale moonlight by the most unearthly noises, coming from a group of our +black servants. On getting up to see what it was, I found that one of +our negresses, a wife of one of the servants, was performing _Boree_, +the "Devil," and working herself up into the belief that his Satanic +majesty had possession of her. She threw herself upon the ground in all +directions, and imitated the cries of various animals. Her actions were, +however, somewhat regulated by a man tapping upon a kettle with a piece +of wood, beating time to her wild manoeuvres. After some delay, +believing herself now possessed, and capable of performing her work, she +went forward to half-a-dozen, of our servants, who were squatting down, +on their hams, ready to receive her. She then took each by the head and +neck, and pressed their heads between her legs--they sitting, she +standing--not in the most decent way, and made over them, with her whole +body, certain inelegant motions, not to be mentioned. She then put their +hands and arms behind their backs, and after several other wild cries +and jumps, and having for a moment thrown herself flat upon the ground, +she declared to each and all _their future_--their fortune, good or bad. +I did not stop to see the result of the ceremony. The slaves carry these +mysteries with them in their servitude, and the practice of such +indecent and profane things tolerated by the Muslims of the coast. The +Moors and Arabs, indeed, have great faith in these mysteries, and resort +to them to know _their future_. + +I made this day a list of objects of barter:--A looking-glass in a tin +case, value, in Tripoli, thirty paras, purchases here two sahs of +ghaseb. A common print handkerchief, value fourpence English money, only +purchases three or four sahs of ghaseb. + +Eight draa of fine white calico are equal to one metagal; three of which +metagals is a large dollar. (This does not sell at much advantage.) + +I this day finished my dispatch, dated from Esalan, respecting the +disputes and disagreements I had with the Tuaricks of Ghat; but since +then these Haghars have, indeed, appeared very moderate people to us. + +Thermometer at half-past twelve P.M., under tent, 92 deg. Fahr. + +Instead of much rain, we have had a squall of wind this afternoon, +attended by a slight shower. + +In the afternoon, Yusuf came, with a menacing tone, from En-Noor, +saying, we must pay ten metagals (of this country) for finding each of +the lost camels; or if not, this sum would be taken from us by force. +Yusuf added, also, that En-Noor was dissatisfied with his present; that +the Sultan had remarked to him,--"It was a present for servants, and he +had given it all away to the people." Moreover, that yesterday came +several persons, marabouts, from Tintaghoda, who mentioned their +displeasure to En-Noor because they had not yet received anything. + +I was just rejoicing at the finding of three lost camels; but it seems +we are not to have a moment of repose or enjoyment in Aheer. It may be, +hereafter, "sweet to remember these things," but it is now a sad trial +of patience to bear them. I abused En-Noor and our servants in turn. As +to the forty metagals, there was not a question ventured about that; but +the present of En-Noor was the largest we had ever made, and it would +have been better to have brought with us letters of recommendation for +robbers than such people. All this comes after it had been noised abroad +through the whole village that En-Noor was greatly rejoiced at the +present, and all the people were happy and content. Such, however, is +the dependence to be placed on reports in the African kingdom of Aheer! +However, I am determined to give way to no more vain fears, but to +preserve as much as possible of the property of Government. I am sorry +to say that I receive no assistance in my efforts to save the money with +which I have been entrusted. + +I am now writing to Mr. Gagliuffi on the subject of the great losses and +shameless extortion to which we were subjected on our arrival in this +country. In reviewing the whole affair, setting apart the personal +devotion exhibited towards myself, I have no cause to be pleased with +our escort and servants. They gave way too easily to fear, and, seem to +have been too willing to allow us to buy ourselves off. I have omitted +to mention that they wished us to write a document, to the effect that +if we came to harm it was not through their fault! This singular idea +was, of course, rejected. I must observe, that not only we, but all our +caravan, were prodigiously disappointed by the reception we met with. +The Haghars were expected to be troublesome, and their alleged pursuit +of us was sufficiently probable; but no one admitted that there was any +danger from the people of Aheer. On the contrary, all professed delight +at the prospect of entering the inhabited districts, where it was +thought and boldly proclaimed we should all have the most cordial +welcome. Yet the Haghars did not come, and the borderers of Aheer +treated us as badly as the wildest Tuaricks could have done, behaving +like veritable brigands. I entertain some faint hopes of obtaining +redress; but have been so often deceived, that I shall say nothing for +the present on the subject. + +_Friday, 13th Sept._--I rose early; a fine morning. Thermometer at a +quarter to seven P.M. under tent, 78 deg.. We had a visit early from the +son-in-law of En-Noor and his two friends, who had found the camels. +They were extremely polite, and much pleased when I sent them to the +Sfaxee to receive forty metagals for the recovery of the four lost +camels (one is not yet come up). Then I had a visit from one of the +slaves of En-Noor's brother. This man gave a good account of En-Noor, +and said he would certainly go with us. He observed, also, respecting +the Sultan's authority, "En-Noor governs everywhere--all Aheer, and even +Damerghou and Zinder." This must be taken to signify, En-Noor has great +influence in all these countries. + +Asoudee is said by some to be a city, walled, and of considerable +extent, with many people; others represent it as being in ruins. I think +its ruins are mentioned in my Ghadamez itinerary. Unlike Tintalous, a +great quantity of provisions is stored up in that place. + +Yusuf and the Sfaxee came this morning from En-Noor, and brought more +tranquillising news; but we have been obliged to give ten douros each +for finding the lost camels--almost as much as my white maharee is +worth. However, I remained in tolerably good spirits all day, cheered by +the favourable account given me of the Sultan. But woe to the man who +hugs himself in a feeling of security in Aheer! + +Late in the evening Yusuf and the Sfaxee came from En-Noor with a most +threatening message. The Sheikh says, in substance, that "Everybody +wishes to attack us, and take away our property. To protect us, +therefore, and conduct us to Zinder, he must have, at least, seven +hundred dollars." At first he demanded one thousand, and then came down +to seven hundred. Such is the man to whom we are recommended as a friend +and protector. None of the robbers have yet taken so large a sum, so +that this is the greatest, grandest of the brigands! I went to bed +disquieted by the enormity of En-Noor's demands. + +_14th._--As may be imagined, I passed an unquiet night, disturbed by the +most gloomy forebodings. It now appeared to me that all the amenity of +the Sultan had been assumed, in order that he might first get all he +could out of us by gentle means, previous to resorting to threats and +bullying. As to resistance, it is, of course, impossible, if imperative +demands be made. In the morning En-Noor sent a message, to the effect +that he could not see us unless we had made up our minds to give him the +seven hundred dollars. He is getting more and more bold and impertinent. +I deputed Mahommed Tunisee and the Sfaxee to him as negotiators. They +are to offer a present of five hundred dollars; that is to say, three +hundred for the escort to Zinder, and the remaining two hundred after +the signing of the treaty. With some difficulty the matter was for the +present arranged, by the sacrifice of another hundred dollars as a +present to the courtiers of the great man, in order that they might +induce him to be so kind as to accept of the remaining five hundred! My +agents were greatly assisted by the Wakeel of Makersee of Mourzuk. I +consented to the arrangement on En-Noor's writing a letter to her +Majesty's Government, promising protection to British travellers for the +future; and thus ended this new, and I may say, flagrant series of +exactions. Possibly, had I been alone, I might have been able to hold +out longer and more successfully; but it is somewhat embarrassing to act +with persons who share in your councils without sharing in your +responsibility, and who naturally seek the shortest and easiest method +of getting over all difficulties. The conclusion of the arrangement had +a tranquillising effect upon our encampment, especially on my worthy +German colleagues. + +The people have complained to En-Noor that we are "writing the country." +This is an old complaint, and pervades all Northern Africa and the +Desert, "that the Christians come first to write a country, and +afterwards invade or capture it." Travellers, therefore, especially when +they venture to use the pen in public, are looked upon as spies, which +may in part account for the rough treatment they sometimes receive. + +Every place has certain things especially in demand. Here nothing goes +down but white calico and very small looking-glasses, which shut up in +boxes. With these we purchase the greater part of our provisions. There +is a little cotton-money about. Our encampment sometimes resembles a +market. The people are curious to observe every action which differs +from theirs. When I promenade a little for exercise, they immediately +turn their eyes upon me with astonishment, and some come to ask what I +do that for. I reply by signs,[17] feeling my legs and stretching them. +This proves satisfactory, for the Kailouees are apparently an active +people, at least in this season; but they moved about little while the +rain lasted, and in the middle of the day they rarely visit us--always +in the morning and in the afternoon. Dr. Overweg has got some patients; +but people generally seem to enjoy very good health in this place. We +have now a great deal of wind instead of rain: it always blows hard in +the latter part of the day. I find this weather very bracing, though the +thermometer at nine P.M. sometimes stands at 83 deg.. The rainy season may +be considered nearly at an end. + + [17] It is astonishing how few of the Kailouees speak Arabic. The + few terms and expressions they are acquainted with are only + those of commerce. + +The valleys and rocks of Aheer abound with several kinds of wild +animals, both the inoffensive and the ferocious; viz. the gazelle, the +wadan, the wild ox, the ostrich, the wild boar, the jackal, the wolf, +the hyaena, and the lion. Numerous birds haunt the trees. Amongst others +we noticed a very beautiful species of dove, with a very distinct black +ring round its neck; the hippoo; the wood-pecker; linnets; and over us +flew the little black-and-white bird with the long feathers in its tail. + +_15th._--We had a fine morning; the wind has quite dried our encampment. +There will be little more wet weather, they tell us; and the rain has +some time quite ceased in Soudan. This is fortunate, as already several +of our things have been spoiled. The Kailouees are taking advantage of +the dry weather, and may be seen riding about in all directions. The +members of the great families, like our European aristocrats, seem to +have no other occupation. God has created the earth for this class to +gallop about over. It was very warm and fine all day; thermometer at +noon, in tent, 95 deg. Fahr.: there was little wind. + +The secret of En-Noor's authority is this: in all his great gains, and +lucky enterprises, and pieces of good fortune--as our arrival here has +proved--he gives his principal people and courtiers a share of the +profit or the spoil; and when nothing particular is going on, he feeds +them from the granary of his house, or clothes them from his heaped-up +merchandise. All this, however does not save the prince from being +occasionally robbed--if we are to believe report, which says that the +other evening some black cotton turbans were taken from his house. The +news from the town is, that En-Noor and his courtiers have received the +amount of their extortion in goods. We have now given at Tintalous to +the value of nearly a thousand dollars, and yet we have not received the +smallest present in return--not a supper the day of our arrival, not a +little butter or fruit; nothing, absolutely nothing! + +Our servants have nearly procured all the ghaseb which they require for +the journey from this to Zinder, viz. one hundred sahs. This they have +purchased with various little wares, principally knives and +looking-glasses. The ghaseb is always mixed with ghafouley, a species of +grain about a third the size of a small pea. Ghafouley is called _koula_ +in Soudanese. The Aheer cheese has appeared for the first time amongst +us to-day. It is made in little squares, three by two inches broad, and +a quarter of an inch thick. It is eaten fresh, but has a poor flavour. +The people prefer pounding it into dust when dry, and drinking it with +ghaseb-water, which is white as milk, and very cool. The paste thus made +is very white, and becomes as hard as a stone when dry. I have also made +acquaintance with _doua doua_, round black balls of a vegetable +composition, eaten with various dishes as seasoning. It is very abundant +in Soudan. There is also a species of ghaseb-paste, called +_d[=a]bo[)a]_, not unlike macaroni in very small pieces. This is very +much esteemed. It swells exceedingly when boiled, like paste. We begin +to get into regions where the preparation of food is greatly changing. +Yesterday my servants purchased me a fowl, and I learned for the first +time that this delicacy was to be procured. + +I have studied but little since I left Tripoli. Our affairs have always +been worse and worse, and we have had a continual battle to preserve our +existence. Such is the beginning of this expedition: God only knows what +may be its _end_. There is left for us but a firm reliance in His +goodness and protecting providence. + +_16th._--This was a warm, hazy day, and we were troubled with +considerable languor. I have slept but little these three nights, and +feel somewhat indisposed for want of rest. I read a good deal of +Clapperton's "Journey to Sakkatou," besides beginning a vocabulary of +the Kailouee language, with the assistance of Mokhlah Bou Yeldee, who is +a very clever young man. He gets his living by writing charms, and sells +a good number for the cure of disease. People pour water on the ink or +writing of the charm, and then drink the magic liquid. The remedy is +doubtless as effectual as many patent medicines in Europe. As is well +known, this superstition of drinking the Koran is of old date. + +En-Noor sent a message this morning by the slave of Makersee, that we +were not to say a single word to any one, not even to our servants, +about the money, or its amount, which we have paid him for our escort to +Zinder. He says, "If the people hear of this money, they will all come +down upon me for a portion; and if I do not comply with their wishes +they will abandon us, and not go with us to Zinder, and I want as many +of them to go with me as possible." + +Our wealth is still noised abroad! The people believe all our boxes to +be full of gold and silver. Even En-Noor sought for secret information +respecting the amount of dollars which he supposed to be concealed +amongst our baggage. + +I was again restless when night came on, and was still awake when the +moon was near setting, about three A.M., under tent, at which time +suddenly I heard the wife of Said begin to squall, with the sound of the +trampling of feet around my tent. I conjectured immediately what was up, +"Another attack!" I repeated mechanically to myself, and getting up, +began to dress myself. At first I thought our assailants were at some +distance off, but when the boxes began to be drawn from around my tent I +exclaimed, "Oh, oh, they are upon me, and are carrying off the things." +Still I had become so accustomed to these attacks, or attempted attacks, +by night and by day, that I felt quite indifferent, and began to dress +myself as if nothing was the matter, or simply as if some one had called +me up suddenly to breakfast, or that we were to start off early on our +way. + +I found my clothes, however, with some difficulty, and tore them a +little in putting them on. At last I went out. All our people were up, +as well as the Germans. On inquiring the news, I learned that a band of +robbers had attacked us; from six to ten had been counted. My servants +had all decamped, with the exception of Said. Some of them had been +struck by the robbers, and others had been threatened, and had ran away. +My servant Said, as soon as he sallied out and saw what was going on, +seized his matchlock, and pointed it at the assailants, especially those +who were removing the saharees (large square boxes). Upon this they +began to quake, and, parleying with Said, begged for mercy, and said +they would go immediately if the powder was not used against them. Said +took them at their word, and they ran off. They had already, however, +carried away about nine pounds of tea, packed in tin boxes. It is +probable they mistook these boxes of tin for silver, or considered their +contents to be money, gold and silver, although their lightness should +have undeceived them. As the Arabic Bibles and Testaments were packed up +with the tea, they carried off a Bible with them. But this they +afterwards dropped on the road, and it was picked up by a shepherdess, +and brought to me. They also took away a pewter dish and two bags of +grounded ghaseb, besides ripping open the bags of the blacks. This +appears to be the amount of the robbery and devastation; very fortunate +are we it was not worse. We had watched many nights, and had often +loaded our guns; but this night, when the thieves came, we were +miserably unprepared to receive them. The Germans had been cleaning +their guns, and all were unloaded. Overweg had his fowling-piece charged +with small shot. At length we got two or three guns in trim, and our +servants followed the robbers, but nothing of them was to be seen. The +cowards had fled at the first show of resistance. In the morning, on +searching through the small valley up which they had come, we were +surprised to find marks of no less than thirteen camels--enough to carry +away all our goods. So that it is probable there were some thirteen +robbers, a part of whom remained with the camels whilst the others +attacked us. Amankee, on being knocked down with a shield, got up again, +and ran off to the town, giving the alarm everywhere. + +En-Noor, as soon as the news of this aggression reached him, sent off a +_posse_ of people, and then called in the inhabitants of a neighbouring +village; so that, when all was over, our encampment was surrounded by a +disorderly multitude of protectors till day-light. + +To my tent came the confidential servant of En-Noor, and everybody was +talking, drinking coffee, and making merry. After all, it was well to +have these people, for if the thirteen robbers had shown ordinary +courage, in our unprepared state we should have had a good deal of work +to do, and might some of us have got bad sword-cuts or spear-thrusts. + +En-Noor, they say, is exceedingly angry about this attack, and has sent +eleven mounted men after the robbers to seize their camels, which if he +gets hold of he intends to confiscate. On Amankee calling on him he +observed, "You, Amankee, being a native of Soudan, and not a Muslim of +Tripoli, are like the Kailouees. You can fire on these Kailouee robbers. +Get your gun loaded, ready for any other occasion." + +At daylight, after lecturing my servants for not giving the alarm +(for, with the exception of Said's wife, they were all so +terror-stricken--literally struck dumb with terror--that they could not +speak, much-less cry out), I sent Amankee off at the heels of the +robbers. In all such emergencies I have found no one like Amankee; he is +a complete bloodhound, and can scent his way through all the desert, and +follow the steps of the most agile and quick-witted fugitive. I knew +Amankee would pick up some of the tea and bring news of the robbers. He +returned, and fulfilled my expectations: he picked up about six ounces +of tea scattered on the road, and brought the news that the robbers were +from Tidek and Taghajeet. They had come some days' journey to plunder +us. I learned, also, that the rascals, just before they attacked us, had +been feasting at a wedding in Tintalous. + +I grieved very much for the loss of my tea, and employed six or seven +hours in picking the stones out of what Amankee recovered. I had greatly +coveted this luxury, and set my heart upon it; and now my idol was +ruthlessly torn from me by a band of robbers! Amankee, knowing my +feelings, had offered a reward for the rest, telling the people he saw +on the road that the tea could only be drank by Christians, and was +poison for Muslims! This fib drew from the astonished Kailouees a woful +ejaculation--"Allah! Allah!" Many funny scenes were enacted during the +few minutes of the attack of the robbers. The other negress, a wife of +another of the servants, was quite dumb; but Said's wife crept around +the tent like a dog, on her hands and feet, giving the alarm, but +fearing to rise up lest she should be felled down by the robbers. The +servants of the Germans hearing the squalling thought it was Said +"beating his wife"--a thing common in these countries. Dr. Barth heard +all sorts of noises, but imagined they were all from the celebration of +the wedding. It is always well to examine suspicious circumstances. A +strange camel had been seen straying at sunset near our tent, which +excited the suspicions of myself and Dr. Barth. If we had obeyed our +presentiments, we might have discovered the intended attack, or, at +least, have made some preparations. + +A few robbers have often visited us before this. When I had an interview +with En-Noor I asked for a couple of guards, but he refused them, on the +plea that they were unnecessary. Although he knew well the country is +now full of thieves, and told us so, he never expected this audacious +attack of thirteen maharees! Soudan abounds with thieves, and we must +now always keep watch. May we, however, in our further progress, have +nothing more to fear than petty larceny; and we shall have reason indeed +to be thankful! + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +We shift our Encampment--En-Noor's Circular--The Kadi's Decision--No +Progress in the Sahara--Aghadez Gumruk--Scorpions--Election of Sultans +in Aheer--Present of Salutation--Paying for finding lost +Property--Courier from the new Sultan--No Presents sent us--Notes on +Denham--A Bornouese Measure--Intended Razzia--Firing off +Gunpowder--Hypotheses of Danger--Dress and Women--Enroute to +Bilma--Soudan Caravan--Visit from Tintaghoda--Aheer Honey--Modes of +Measurement--Power of En-Noor--Visits to him from great People--Stations +on the Bilma Road--Salt-Trade--Account of our Pursuers at +Tajetterat--Costume of the Kailouees--Their Weapons--Poisoned +Arrows--Charms--Female Dress--Names of Articles of Costume--Character of +Kailouees. + + +_Sept. 17th._--In the morning En-Noor sent a message that we must +immediately move from our present encampment on our sand-hills, a +quarter of a mile from the town, where we had a pleasant view of +everything in the valley and around, and come near the people. So in the +course of the day we pitched tents close by the houses of the town. We +found that we were not so much molested by the inhabitants (i.e. by +their curiosity) as we expected. + +I had heard in the previous evening that En-Noor, two or three days ago, +had written, by means of one of the learned men of this place, to all +the towns and villages around him, begging the Sheikhs and people not to +offer us any molestation whilst we were residing here, under his +immediate protection, as his guests, and as sacred persons recommended +to his care. This shows good-will in the venerable Sultan. He sent to us +this morning the result of the Kadi's decision, respecting the robbers. +This singular question was put to the Kadi, "Whether it was lawful to +rob and murder the Christians by night?" Answer, "No; on the contrary, +the Christians may fire on and kill the Muslim robbers." The Sultan, it +appears, attaches great importance to this decision, and counts on it to +obtain the suffrages of all his people in our favour. + +Such are the circumstances attending the first visit of Christians to +Aheer! I believe this attack will do our servants good. They see now, +that, by a little resistance, the most audacious of thieves will be put +to flight. We ourselves shall also keep better watch for the future. + +_18th._--I finished to-day a vocabulary of the Kailouee language. I +endeavour also to divert my mind from the many causes of annoyance that +now exist, by studying the records of the Denham and Clapperton +expedition. We shall soon be amidst the same countries that they +explored, and, no doubt, shall find that little has changed in the +manners of the people during these last thirty years. Neither in the +Desert nor in the kingdoms of Central Africa is there any march of +civilisation. All goes on according to a certain routine established for +ages past. + +A courier has just arrived from the new Sultan of Aghadez, demanding the +gumruk, or custom-dues, from the caravan of Christians who have entered +Aheer. As if we had not already paid enough! After two or three weeks of +incessant solicitation, by the way, I gave Es-Sfaxee, Yusuf, and +Mahommed, a small bottle of rum--the first, and it shall be the last; +for they got drunk and quarrelsome upon it. + +_19th._--This day I took a walk over the neighbouring rocks, whence +there is a wide view over the whole surrounding valley. I have omitted +to observe, that at our former place of encampment were seen many +scorpions; so that here these reptiles inhabit the open country equally +with the ruins of old houses or mosques, and such places. Under one of +my boxes was also discovered a lefa, the most dangerous species of +serpent in these countries. + +It appears that most of the caravans that pass through this country are +obliged to pay a certain gumruk to the prince of Aghadez. The relations +of the lesser Sheikhs of Aheer with the paramount sultan are of this +kind. When a sultan dies, or is displaced, they assemble like the +College of Cardinals, or rather like the old Polish nobility, to elect a +new one. It is the law that this Sultan of Aghadez must be a stranger. +When once chosen he is invested with something like absolute authority +throughout all Aheer, and he alone possesses the dreaded power of +"cutting off heads." En Noor has sent this morning what is called "the +present, of salutation," which he determined to despatch to +Abd-el-Kader, the new Sultan of Aghadez, instead of the immense gumruk +demanded. The present consists of one Egyptian mattrass; two white +turbans with red borders; a piece of white muslin for making light +turbans; two shasheeahs, or red caps; two small gilt-framed +looking-glasses; and a few beads of glass and earthen composition; one +pound of _jouee_, or perfume for burning; a small packet of _simbel_, an +aromatic herb used for washing the body; and two heads of white sugar. +This composed what may be called the official present for the district +of Tintalous. En-Noor added, from himself, two camels, a piece of silk +for a gown, and various other little things. + +Whilst these magnificences are going on, we are enjoying the comfortable +reflection that all our losses are gains to other people, whether they +be friends or enemies. + +I had as much trouble to satisfy the parties who found the Arabic Bible +as if I was purchasing their own property, and not rewarding them for +accidentally finding some of my lost goods. Finally, however, I arranged +to give them two cotton-printed handkerchiefs and a small quantity of +spices. This was more than enough. These rewards for finding our lost +property naturally impels our friendly people, either to rob us +themselves or to wish that others may rob us, that they may have +something to gain by attempting to recover our lost things. What we had +to pay for the recovery of each of our camels was almost as much as some +of them were worth. + +The weather has been dry and hot for the last few days; at noon the +thermometer rose to 100 deg. under the tent. Suddenly it became cloudy, and +a few drops of rain began to patter down. There was every appearance of +a storm, and our people began to collect towards the tents. At this time +another courier arrived from the new Sultan, Abd-el-Kader, of Aghadez, +respecting us. His highness says:--"No one shall hurt the Christians: no +one shall lift up a finger against them; and if they wish to come to my +city, I shall be very happy to receive them." This courier arrived so +quickly after the other, that I suspect his highness may be spelling for +a large present; or he may have just heard of the bad treatment we have +received, and being a new man has determined to afford us some +reparation. Little reliance, however, can be placed on these +professions, until we know something more of the character of +Abd-el-Kader. It is certainly a great disappointment for us that we do +not go to Aghadez. I am afraid that this will be the case with many +other important cities. + +The Es-Sfaxee wished to have a feast to celebrate the arrival of this +good news, but I cannot join in such a demonstration. We have little +cause for rejoicing at the conduct of the people of Aheer. En-Noor has +not yet sent us a sah of ghaseb; or a drop of samen or a sheep's head. +Never did travellers visit a country in Africa, without receiving some +mark of hospitality of this kind from the chief or sovereign of the +place. + +In the evening a fellow came and asked us if we could sell him a veneese +(a dressing-gown) in exchange for ghaseb. After some trouble we fixed +the bargain. Said was fool enough to give him the veneese before he +brought the merchandise, the fellow promising to bring it the next +morning. During the night he fled with his booty on the road to Aghadez. +Amankee went in pursuit of the fugitive, seized him on the road, and +brought back the veneese: for such matters there is no one equal to +Amankee. + +_20th._--Denham compares the berries of the _suak_ (suag) to +cranberries. _Zumeeta_ is called parched corn; it should be parched +ground corn. Gafouley is called guinea-corn. The green herb with which +_bazeen_ is generally seasoned is called _melocheea_ (ochra). There are, +however, various herbs for this seasoning, though all of them have a +similar flavour. I confess, myself, I do not much like the flavour; it +is, like that of olives, an acquired taste. Bazeen may be called +flour-pudding. + +Gubga is a Bornouese measure, eight draas (or lengths of the lower part +of the arm, from the elbow to the tips of the fingers) in length and one +inch and a half broad. Denham, who spells it gubka, says it is about one +English yard. The eight draas would be, however, nearly three yards. +This measure is applied to white, coarse, native-woven cotton, and a +piece of cotton eight draas long and one inch and half broad is a gubga. +This is the money of Bornou; it must be a most inconvenient currency, +but habit accustoms us to everything. + +It is reported in town, that En-Noor intends shortly to make a razzia on +the towns where we were plundered: he says, perhaps justly, "The tribes +have '_tasted_' fine burnouses, more especially their sheikhs; and +emboldened by their success, and the attractiveness of the rich +vestments, they will now plunder all the caravans." This is another +reason why strong representations should be made to the Pasha of Mourzuk +to grant us redress. En-Noor can seize camels and sequester them; he can +also seize men: but he must afterwards send them to Aghadez for trial. +This razzia, however, will not come off yet. + +A storm of wind, with at little rain as usual, visited us in the +afternoon. It then cleared up, and was fine all the evening. + +The Es-Sfaxee, heading our servants, was determined to fire away a +little gunpowder this evening though much against my inclination. After +they had been firing near the tents, En-Noor sent for them to fire at +the doors of his house. The old Sheikh is now waxing mighty civil, and +swears that we are his _walad_ (children). We shall see what we shall +see. Yusuf even thinks he can be persuaded to sign the treaty. All the +Kailouees are very fond of powder, and also very much alarmed at it. +They say they could themselves make plenty of powder if saltpetre were +found them. + +_21st._--It appears that some of the districts of Damerghou are included +within the circle of Aheer, and that the Kailouees exercise authority +there. En-Noor has a house there. + +Overweg's three hypotheses of danger south of Bornou are:-- + +1. To be stripped of everything by robbers, and left naked in the +wilderness. + +2. To be devoured by wild beasts. + +3. To be forced to traverse a desert where there is no subsistence for +man or beast. Indeed, after the experience we have had up this road, +although a Tuarick road (and Tuaricks are not supposed to have a +peculiar antipathy to Christians), it will be next to suicide to proceed +far south without adequate guides and protection. + +The two predominant passions of men in all these Tuarick countries, +especially Aheer, are for dress and women. A few only are tainted by +fanaticism, and fewer still are misers; because, probably they have +nothing to save. Of the character of the women I cannot speak, for want +of experience; the few we have met with have begged mostly for trinkets, +and looking-glasses, but we have seen little of the love of intrigue. + +About Aheer, the Bornou and Soudan routes appear not to be far apart. +The Tibboos make Kisbee to be only eight days from Aghadez. The +Kailouees also state that Bilma (or _Boulouma_, in their pronunciation) +is only seven or eight days of good travelling from Tintalous; but the +salt-caravans always employ fourteen days, arriving at Bilma on the +fifteenth. + +Yesterday afternoon a portion of a large Soudan caravan arrived. A +number of bullocks were amongst its beasts of burden; one of these had +immense branching horns, and, according to the report of Said's wife, +was of the same species as those found in her country, Kanemboo, near +Bornou. These bullocks seemed to be in every respect trained like +horses, and some of them carry a burden of four cantars. + +_22d._--I rose early, to prepare my despatches for Mourzuk and England. +To-day not much wind, only a little refreshing breeze. The wind, which +appears to visit us daily instead of the rain, generally begins about an +hour after noon, and continues to blow in fitful gusts until three or +four P.M. when it gradually sinks. The evenings are perfectly calm, +though not always cloudless. + +Yesterday five maharees arrived from Tintaghoda, mounted by persons who +came to inquire after the health of En-Noor. They left early this +morning. Somehow or other these maharees always look suspicious to me. +The injuries we have received make us suspicious. + +I ate some honey of Aheer to-day. It has a most treacley taste, and, in +truth, is not unlike treacle, not having the delicate flavour of honey. +It has purgative qualities. They boil it on the fire, and so spoil it. + +I wrote to-day to Viscount Palmerston, to Mr. Gagliuffi, and my wife, +sending also specimens of the Kailouee language, and the journal of +Yusuf, describing the route from Ghat to Aheer--altogether a good +parcel. + +The Arabs and Moors try to measure everything by portions of their body. +The draa, a measure from the elbow to the tips of the fingers, is in +universal requisition. The fathom, signified by the arms extended on +both sides the body, is not so frequently in use. The sun is often said +to be so many fathoms high. If we attended a little more to these +natural measures it might be well, although the human body being so +various in size we could never be correct, and then we might lose sight +of those artificial means of measuring objects which distinguish us from +the semi-barbarian Arabs. + +This evening I heard from Es-Sfaxee a more favourable account of the +power of En-Noor. It would appear that En-Noor is the aged Sheikh, the +Sheikh Kebeer, of the Kailouees, whom all respect, and to whom all look +up in cases of difficulty and distress. With En-Noor always authority +remains, whilst all the other Sheikhs are being changed--some every +year. En-Noor, nevertheless, appears to be a great miser, continually +amassing wealth in money, merchandise, or camels. He is also reported to +have four hundred horses in Damerghou, a district of which is subjected +to him. + +At the present time he is constantly receiving visits from the +surrounding Kubar, "great people," inquiring after his health, and +bringing presents. Whilst he thus amasses treasure, he feeds a number of +dependants a little above the starvation point; and this standing army +suffices for his executive. Several of the princes of Aheer are expected +to visit the new Sultan of Aghadez, and compliment him on his accession. +The exact name of the new Sultan is now said to be Kadaree Ben +El-Bagharee. + +_23d._--I rose early, to send off the despatches. They are sent to +Asoudee, where there is a caravan just arrived from Kanou. Among the +persons composing it are some Mourzuk people, who will take charge of +the despatches. This caravan stays a few days in Asoudee, when it will +leave direct for Mourzuk, and arrive at this latter city in the course +of two months and a-half. + +I have just received an account of the route of the salt-caravans from +Tintalous to Bilma:-- + +From Tintalous to Asaughar Five days. + " Fakramah One day. + " K[=a]w[=a]r One day. + " Boulouma One day. + +The mediate time occupied is said to be between eight and fourteen days. +The three stations mentioned between Tintalous and Bilma have wells of +water. There is also an abundance of herbage all along the route for +camels. The direction of the route is always east, over a flat country +(probably through wadys); although, my informant adds, there are no +mountains. The salt is found in small lakes. The people amass it with +the water, and make of it round cakes; the water runs away, and the +cakes become hard and dry. It is then packed up in camel-loads. A large +camel-load pays to the Tibboos half a metagal, or about ninepence +English money. It is thus evident that the Tibboos do derive a revenue +from their salt, contrary to what was stated by them to Major Denham. +Since his time, however, this people have found themselves in a better +condition to enforce this impost on the Kailouee salt-merchants than +they were formerly. + +The caravan of Ghat Tuaricks brought here the news, a few days ago, that +no less than four hundred people, fractions of the tribes of the Azgher, +consisting of men, women, and children, followed us as far as Tajetterat +to see what they could get from the Christians. When they arrived at the +wells, to their great disappointment we were gone. Some of them were +nearly naked, having only a piece of leather round their loins. Our +sending for an escort from Mourzuk seems to have aroused the whole +country; all these poor wretches expected, at least, a little _hamsa_ +from the Christians, who were reported to have a long train of camels +laden with gold and silver, and all sorts of rich goods. I do not doubt +the correctness of this news; it is so perfectly Targhee in its kind: +but the report of sixty maharees pursuing us from the Haghar desert was +always doubted by me. + +There is now news of my stolen tea, and a chance of my getting some of +it back again, the robbers confessing to their friends that they do not +know what to do with such "_herbage_," as they call it: it is quite +useless to them. + +The Kailouees and Tuaricks generally do not like beards, and cut off the +hair of the upper lip quite close. Indeed, wearing as they do the +thilem, the beard and the mustachios are completely hidden. The +Kailouees leave the crown of the head, which is close shaved, as in the +case of the Mahommedans of the coast, quite bare, exposed to the sun and +weather. Around the lower part of the head they wind a long narrow strip +of black cotton stuff (called _rouanee_ in Soudanee), which is continued +round the face, upper and lower part, and forms the thilem, only about +an inch breadth of the face being exposed or visible; that is, the +portion including the eyes and bridge of the nose. The generality of the +Kailouees wear, besides, a tobe, or long broad cotton frock (or rather +shirt, for nothing is worn under it at the upper part of the body), with +immensely wide sleeves. Those a little better off also wear trousers, +very wide about the loins, narrow at the legs, and drawn round the waist +with a belt. All use leather sandals, strong and thick; some of them are +prettily made. The whole of this apparel is imported from Soudan, there +being apparently no manufactures in Aheer. + +The arms of the men,--for all go armed with some weapon,--are a dagger +under the left arm, a sword slung on the back, and a spear in the right +hand. The spear-shaft is wood, whilst those of the Ghat Tuaricks and +Haghars are frequently metal, of the same substance as the point of the +weapon. These iron spears are said to be manufactured by the Tibboos. +They are much more formidable weapons than the spears with wooden +shafts. When mounted on their maharees, all the Kailouees have shields +made of the tanned skins of animals, generally of the wild ox (_bugara +wahoosh_). To these arms the people in Aheer now begin to add +matchlocks, which are sent up from the coast. The sword is not worn on +the back when riding, but hangs down on the right-hand side, sheathed in +a fantastic leather cage. + +A few of the poorer sort of Kailouees appear with bows and arrows. The +latter they carry in very close bundles, so well packed up that not one +can separate from the other. They told me they were poisoned, and would +not let me touch them. Amongst the accomplishments of the Gighis and +magicians of Africa is that of poisoning arrows. The pagan nations are +generally very expert in this + + "dreadful art, + To taint with deadly drugs the barbed dart." + +The younger and more fashionable Kailouees wear round their necks, and +hanging down over their breast, a large necklace of charms sewn in +leather bags. Some also wear a sort of cloth cap, called bakin zakee, of +a green colour, round which they bind the turkadee, or black turban. On +this cap they also occasionally wear charms, done up in small metal +boxes. Their camels are very fantastically dressed in leathern +trappings. + +The great men, and indeed all those that can afford it, despise the +simple Kailouee costume, and indulge in all the rich dresses which are +so much liked by the Moors of the coast,--burnouses, shasheeahs, +turbans, veneeses, caftans, tobes of silk, &c. + +The dress of the women whom we see about is a simple cotton tobe, +covering them from neck to heels. The colour of these tobes is generally +blue-black, dyed with indigo; some are glazed with gum. Many, however, +are white, and ornamented in front about the neck with silken +embroidery,--a costume which gives them a very chaste and elegant +appearance. Sometimes the tobes are variegated in colour, as are the +trousers; but the sombre, or pure white, are the most popular. + +I have set down the Kailouee names for various articles of dress as well +as weapons:-- + +Green cloth cap Bakin zakee. +Turban, or bandage round the head and face Taghalmous. +Red or other caps Takabout. +Frock and shirt Teekatkat. +Trousers Eskarbaee. +Sandals Eghateema. +Dagger Azegheez. +Sword Alagh. +Spear Ebzaghdeer. +Shield Aghar. +Arrow Amour. +Bow Takanya. +Leathern bag for tobacco, pipe, needles, + thread, scissors, looking-glass, and other + small things,--nicknacks Elbes. +Charm Sheera. + +I can scarcely yet venture to pronounce an opinion on the character of +the Kailouees. They decidedly differ from the Haghar and Azgher +Tuaricks, in being more civil and companionable. But they seem to have +acquired from Soudan the habit of petty thieving, from which the Haghars +are especially free. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Rainstorm--Overtures from En-Noor--Another Interview--Aheer Fashions--A +great Lady--Hoisting the British Flag--A devoted Slave--Sultan of +Asoudee--Attack on a Caravan--Purposed Razzia--Desert News--Buying +Wives--A peculiar Salutation--Oasis of Janet--New Razzias--Costume of +the Sultan--The Milky Way--Noise at a Wedding--Unquiet Nights--Sickness +in the Encampment--A captive Scorpion--Nuptial Festivities--An insolent +Haghar--Prejudice about Christians--Movements in Aheer--Bullocks. + + +_Sept. 24th._--We had a good deal of wind yesterday, but no appearance +of rain. This morning was fine, clear, and warm; but just after noon a +sudden fall of rain came, followed, within five minutes, by a tempest of +thunder, lightning, rain, and hail, which broke immediately over our +heads, and carried away our small tents. Even my Bornou tent, having +been dried up by the recent weather, admitted the rain, and several of +our things were wetted. The tempest itself did not last more than +fifteen or twenty minutes; and by the time the moon rose in the evening, +all clouds had cleared away, and the heavens were as pure as in the +morning. I may observe that the rain is less disagreeable to me than the +clouds of sand-dust, with which we are at other times persecuted. The +fine particles cover and pervade everything, and getting between the +skin and the flannel, produce an irritation like the pricking of +needles. + +This day Yusuf brought a message from En-Noor, to the effect that he had +heard from various people that I had brought a sword for him from the +Queen of England, and also a letter from Her Majesty. He added: "I trust +I have done nothing to offend the Consul or his companions; and I pray +that there may be nothing between us but good feeling and justice--no +lying, nothing but truth and fair dealing." + +It now seemed to me that a good opportunity had arrived for introducing +the subject of the treaty; and I determined to make an effort, being +convinced, from recent transactions between En-Noor and his brother +chieftains, that he exerts paramount influence in Aheer; so that it may +be of considerable benefit to Christian travellers that a treaty of +amity and commerce should be signed by him. Yusuf therefore prepared a +treaty in Arabic, and I one in English. This done, I caused En-Noor to +be informed of our intentions, and, taking with me a sword, went to +visit him with some anxiety. + +We found the Sultan, in company with half-a-dozen people; he received us +in a very friendly manner, and really seemed on this occasion to be what +he professes to be, the friend and Consul of the English. I explained to +him, that we certainly had this treaty ready for him, and intended to +have presented it to him on our arrival; but on account of our +sufferings and the robberies committed on us, and seeing the country in +a state of revolution, I had no heart to present to his highness +anything from the Queen of England. However, now that things were more +settled, and as I saw there was authority in the country, I had much +pleasure in proposing for his signature a treaty from my Government. At +the same moment, as an incentive, I presented the sword (a small naval +officer's sword, with a good deal of polished brass and gilding about +it, of the value, at most, of five pounds). To my great satisfaction, +his highness accepted both treaty and present with ardent manifestations +of pleasure. He made me read the document in English, to hear the sound +of our language; and he also desired me to leave with him an English +copy. This we did, with some explanation of the contents in an Arabic +letter on the back. We then took our copy in Arabic. The sword pleased +him greatly, on account of its lightness, for he is an old man, not very +strong; and because it glittered with gold. We wrote the maker's name in +Arabic, and gave directions to have it well preserved. He inquired after +Drs. Barth and Overweg, and seemed to take great interest in our +welfare. + +In the midst of our conversation a lady, one of the Sultan's female +relations, came, moved no doubt by curiosity, into the room. She was +evidently a fine dame, a person of fashion in this Saharan capital. Her +countenance, in due obedience to the requirements of _ton_, was not +"_rouged_ up to the eyes," but "_yellowed_ up to the eyes!" There cannot +be a more appalling custom. Imagine a young lady, of brown-black +complexion, daubed with brilliant yellow ochre! The paint covers the +whole face, from the roots of the hair to the lower jaw, forming two +semicircles with the upper lips. Between the eyes are three black +beauty-spots, descending perpendicularly on the bridge of the nose. The +eyebrows are blackened, and joined, so as to form one immense arch +across the face, under the yellow brow. Is it possible to disguise the +human countenance more completely? + +The dark-blue cotton skirt of this lady was turned up behind over her +head, so as to form a kind of hood; but underneath she wore a coloured +petticoat. Generally, the women of Tintalous wear a frock, or chemise, +and a piece of cotton wrapper over their head and shoulders.[18] This +wrapper, which serves as a shawl, is not unlike, in effect, the black +veil worn by the Maltese women. The lady we saw at En-Noor's wore a +profusion of necklaces, armlets, and anklets of metal, wood, and horn. +She gazed about for some time and then went her way. After asking and +receiving permission to hoist the British flag over the tents, and to +fire a salute, we imitated her example. This is my first success in +diplomacy! On returning, we prepared for our evening's festivities, but +the tempest assailing us we waited till fairer weather. + + [18] Answering to the gown and head-veil of the + fellahs.--Ed. + +At five in the evening we hoisted the British flag, and fired no less +than a hundred musket discharges. I do not recollect that this ceremony +was ever before performed in the desert, in Bornou or Soudan, although +the union-jack certainly now flies at Mourzuk and Ghadamez, on the roofs +of the consular houses. + +Now I pray God that our great troubles may be over in Aheer--little +troubles we must always encounter, and bear with fortitude. Our servants +and friends are much rejoiced at our success with En-Noor, and they +promise me farther success in Soudan and Bornou. Alas! God alone knows +what is reserved for us; but we must not despair after these, events of +Aheer. At first all was black, without one solitary ray of light; now, +all the Sultans of Aheer are determined they say, conjointly, to afford +us protection: whilst the people are showing themselves more friendly +every day. + +A strange thing is a devoted slave. Zangheema is the devoted slave of +En-Noor. He is his right hand, his man of business, his vizier, his +shadow, his second self. Alternately Zangheema attends the marts of +Mourzuk and Kanou; and, fortunately for us, he is now going to Kanou. + +_25th._--Whilst we were occupied in drying our clothes after the +previous day's tempest, we learned that another Sultan had put himself +on the list of beggars. His Excellency Astakeelee of Asoudee has written +a long letter to En-Noor, of which we are the subject. The substance is +that it is a sin (haram) to plunder us Christians. En-Noor says we must +send him some trifle as a present. There remain yet to come Lousou and +some others. I am glad we are not expected to give much in these cases, +as our means would not allow us to do so. I sent to Astakeelee a red +cloth caftan or long loose gown, a white turban, a fez, a small +looking-glass, and a few cloves for the Sultana, the total value about +twelve dollars. + +Serious news has just come in from the northern frontier. It appears +that the Azgher who followed us all the way from Aisou to Aheer, +secretly exciting the people against us, have joined with the Kailouee +borderers in an attack upon a small Tibboo caravan. Two of the merchants +have been killed, and thirty-five slaves stolen and carried away over +the desert, in the direction of Tuat. + +This news was brought in the afternoon by a caravan of Fezzanees, who +have arrived from Ghat. They declare that they buried the bodies of the +two murdered men. A servant who escaped gave them the rest of the news. +It is probable that the Tibboos made considerable resistance on the +road, as they are brave fellows, and this resistance occasioned their +being murdered. The news has produced great excitement. + +The people begin to see the evil effects of countenancing the forced +exactions made upon us. This will be an instructive lesson to the holy +marabouts of Tintaghoda, who headed the tribes of the frontier against +us unfortunate Christians. + +When we met these very small caravans on the road, with only two owners, +three or four servants, and some forty or fifty slaves, and all without +arms, or perhaps with only a couple of swords, I used to wonder at their +apparent security, and could not help observing, when we were night and +day pursued by bandits, "These robbers must have an extraordinary +affection for Muslims, and be very Deists themselves; for these few +defenceless people pass unmolested, and we are pursued continually, +although our caravan is full of arms." + +En-Noor and the new Sultan of Aghadez have been talking loudly of a +razzia to the north; they will now see its absolute necessity, unless +the route between Aheer and Ghat is to be closed, except for very large +caravans. + +The Fezzanees who left Ghat nineteen days after us also say that before +they started the news had arrived there that the Christians were all +murdered by the people of Janet. They add, besides, that they met Waldee +at Tajetterat, together with the people of Janet, amounting to seventy +maharees, all encamped there. If true, probably these were the Tuaricks, +with whom we were menaced at Taghajeet. The people of Janet were in +pursuit of us. Waldee persuaded them to retrace their steps, declaring, +which indeed was the truth, that the Christians were by that time +arrived in the country of En-Noor, and were consequently beyond their +pursuit. The bandits hearing this, immediately returned. + +The Fezzanees praise the exertions which Waldee made on our behalf. +Hereafter we shall be able, if we live, to verify this intelligence. It +seems doubtful that the people of Janet should be nine days too late for +us. However, our informants declare they gave the brigands victuals and +a few presents. + +I suppose that the grossly-exaggerated accounts which have been spread +as to the vast sums that Hateetah and Wataitee got from us had much to +do in getting up this fermentation in the desert of Ghat. We knew +already that all the tribes and sheikhs were jealous of our escort. I +must renew my application to Gagliuffi for the restitution of the +property of the British Government; if not, the people who form the +proposed razzia will divide it amongst themselves. + +_26th._--En-Noor has sent me word this morning that I may make myself +quite at home in his city, and have nothing whatsoever to fear. +Moreover, he begs to inform me that he has sent for our lost camels to +the districts where they are supposed to be detained, with a peremptory +order, that if they are not immediately given up they are to be seized +by force, and if not found, other camels are to be confiscated instead +of them. This may be the first effect of the slaughter of the Tibboos. +It is quite clear, however, that En-Noor is bound in honour to recover +for us our lost beasts of burden; their detention must otherwise +disgrace his authority. + +As soon as a Moor or an Arab gains a little money, he begins in the +first place to buy a new wife. The merchants, especially those who +traverse the Sahara, have a wife and an establishment at all the +principal cities. When they have half-a-dozen of these establishments +they are then great men. Es-Sfaxee has gained a little money by our +misfortunes, and he now begins to talk of buying a young slave for a +wife, and what not, to attend him on the road. But no sailor, who sails +the waters of the world through and through, and has a lass at every +port, manages matters so well as the travelling Moorish merchant. This +Moor has his comfortable home in every large city of the interior of +Africa, and no one inquires whether he exceeds the number fixed by the +law of the Prophet or not. Indeed, no one knows how many wives he has, +or where they are. + +Ferajee, of the escort, had a particular salutation, by which he used +always to address me. It continues to be repeated by some of our people: +"Othrub Gonsul! Fire off the gun, O Consul! Othrub Gonsul!" This salute +I always heard when Ferajee was in a good humour, and now it is used to +signify that our affairs are looking up. + +According to a Tanelkum, Janet is entirely peopled by Azgher or Ghat +Tuaricks, and members of the tribe of Aheethanaran, who now live on good +terms with the Azgher. This tribe is scattered about as far as Falezlez. +It was the people of the same tribe who formed a razzia expedition +against us. The oasis of Janet, however, is not independent. It is +subject to Shafou; but has a local government of its own. + +Every day brings the news of a new razzia. This morning it is reported +that some brigands of Oulimid who inhabit a district beyond Aghadez, +came down upon the people of Aghadamou, a place five days from +Tintalous, on the route of Soudan, destroyed their houses, and carried +away a great number of their camels. Aghadamou is represented to be a +wady, with a number of huts scattered about. I had not heard of this +place before as being on the Soudan route. + +In the afternoon En-Noor walked out, and came up to me and saluted me. +As I passed by his highness I had an opportunity of noticing his dress. +He wore over the body a plain blue-checked Soudan robe, with trousers of +a similar material; on his head was a red cap bound round with a +blue-black bandage (turkadee), in the form of a turban, but also +brought, according to the invariable custom of the Tuaricks, over and +under the eyes. His shoes were the common Soudan sandals; and thus, with +a long wand, or a white stick, he proceeded with a slow-measured pace +through the streets of the town. A dependant followed the Sultan at a +short distance, but the absence of an escort proclaimed how deep-rooted +was his authority. + +To-day, for the first time, En-Noor sent to buy something of us, viz. a +loaf of white sugar. As Overweg is going to Asoudee under the protection +of En-Noor, I gave him the loaf of sugar, and told him to send it, on +his part, as a present to the Sheikh, and at the same time to ask him to +get his escort ready. + +The Fezzanees call the Milky Way, which appears at this season nearly +overhead early in the evening, "the road of the dates," it being now the +time in which the dates ripen. + +Late in the evening a troop of twenty maharees came riding straight up +to our tents. Although none of our people were gone to bed, although all +were up and about talking, not a single person saw them coming but +myself; and I only saw--none of us heard, so noiselessly did they steal +over the sand. This troop merely came in to bait for the night. They, +however, brought some person with them who is about to be married to a +woman of Tintalous. + +_27th._--I rose early, having slept little on account of noises of +various sorts, which continued all night long. First, there was a drum +perpetually beating, announcing rudely enough the approaching nuptials; +then there was a cricket singing shrill notes at my head; and then there +was the screech-owl making the valley of Tintalous ring again with its +hideous shriek. Add to all, between the roll of the big noisy drum, the +cries and uproar of the people. This morning there are groups of people +squatting all about. Two maharees are riding round and round one group. +Before another is a man dancing as indelicately as a Moorish woman of +the coast. + +News of still another razzia ushers in the day. A small caravan, it is +reported, was attacked a few days ago, on the route between this and +Zinder. The principal merchant was killed, and all the goods and slaves +carried away. The few agents now in Tintalous see clearly that this +route will become, for the future, safe only for large caravans. En-Noor +says of the villages which were attacked by the tribe of Oulimid, that +the people must have been chickens not to have defended themselves; but +the fact is, the whole country is now, to a certain extent, abandoned to +the pillage of lawless banditti. + +In the evening the people contrived to celebrate the preliminaries of +the approaching nuptials. The bride, I now find, is no less a personage +than the daughter of En-Noor,--a full-grown desert princess. The Sfaxee +and several other foreign merchants fired in the evening salutes in +honour of the occasion. The drum was again kept beating all night, +accompanied again by the crickets and the screech-owl. Oh for a quiet +sleep! + +_28th._--Late in the evening another troop of twenty maharees came to +visit En-Noor, and assist at the nuptials. They were known at some +distance by the jingling of the bells, which are always worn on their +camels on such occasions. The drumming was kept up again the greater +part of the night, the screech-owl and crickets joining the discord as +before. + +_29th._--Several of our people have recently been unwell, Yusuf amongst +the rest. They take little care of themselves, and attribute their +illness to the ghaseb. I expect we shall have them all ill in Soudan. + +Early this morning I found Ibrahim, servant of the Germans, holding in +his hand and playing with a huge scorpion, which he had caught near the +tents. He seemed to have fatigued it so much that it could not sting. It +kept, indeed, always striking with its tail, but very feebly. Its head +was not at all prominently brought forward out of its body, and it +looked as if it had no head at all. It had ten legs. I told Ibrahim that +he was a marabout, at which he was greatly flattered. + +The twenty maharees have joined the nuptial festivities this morning. A +number of women are squatting in a group on the ground, and the men +mounted on their camels are riding round and round them, sometimes in +single file, and at other times in two's and two's. Whilst this is going +on, another mounted party gallops up one by one to the group from a +short distance. All this is done to the sound of rude noisy drums. I +have not heard any songs, or seen any other species of music but this +drum. There are, however, several drums of different sizes, and +producing various noises. They are made of wood and with bullocks' hide. + +The women looloo as on the coast, and both men and women dance; not +exactly as the negroes do, but still somewhat indelicately. Hamma, who +commanded our escort, has returned from visiting his friends. + +The Tanelkums report that Hamma is something like Achilles, for he has +often been wounded, having been in many battles, but none of his wounds +have ever proved fatal, or even much incommoded him. + +It would seem that Tintalous, like all the Tuarick countries, is a +miserably poor place; for it is said that none, or very few, of the +people in the town have a fire for cooking their _bazeen_, except the +great En-Noor himself. The time, however, approaches for the departure +of the caravans for Zinder, whence they bring back a great quantity of +ghaseb and samen. + +A Haghar, or Ghat Tuarick, I know not which, came into my tent this +morning and behaved insolently. Amongst other antics, he took up a gun. +I immediately wrested it out of his hands and sent him out of the tent. +Yusuf was present, but, as usual, showed little spirit. + +My blacks were taken aback at my treating a Haghar in this cavalier way; +but I observe that they are now more cautious in permitting strangers to +enter my tent. The day before I turned a saucy Kailouee out, and my +servants begin to understand that I will not be pestered more with these +people, and so they keep them off. This is my only plan, for I have told +them a hundred times not to allow strangers to come and molest my +privacy. + +_30th._--The noisy drums have ceased, and most of the Targhee visitors +have departed. The people, however, still bring news of razzias, +Kailouees with Kailouees. A messenger has returned with his report about +the boat; it is quite safe and in good hands, at Seloufeeat. + +A caravan arrived yesterday from Ghat, and reports that Wataitee had +returned to that place and brought reassuring news respecting us. Behind +is coming another caravan, in which is some Moor from Tripoli. Probably +this person will bring news or letters. From the report of Ibrahim, the +Germans' servant, it would seem that the people of Tintalous believe +that Christians eat human beings; and further, from what I hear, this +strange prejudice possesses the minds of the lower classes in many +countries of Soudan. Such are the opinions of the semi-barbarians of +Africa respecting us and our boasted civilisation! There is much to be +done yet in the world before mankind know one another, and acknowledge +one another as brethren. + +En-Noor sent word this morning that he and his friends, the Sultans of +Asoudee and Aghadez, had combined a razzia against the people of Tidek +and Taghajeet, who had plundered us on the road; and that fifty maharees +had gone to execute their purposes. This is the expedition which has +been long talked of: we shall see its results. Dr. Barth is making +arrangements for going to Aghadez. + +I have prepared a draft of a treaty, which Yusuf, who accompanies Barth, +will take with him. I have also made a selection of presents for the +Sultan of Aghadez. + +There is now an immense movement throughout all the Kailouee country. It +is supposed that the razzia for the west has other ulterior objects +besides merely chastising the Fadeea and people of Tidek for plundering +us. The power of En-Noor more and more developes itself. He seems to be +determined to take every opportunity to consolidate it. + +_Oct. 1st._--Yesterday evening I saw the first drove of bullocks in this +country; it belonged to En-Noor. Overweg made a bet with me that En-Noor +would give us one of these animals to-day. I took his bet of twelve +small Aheer cheeses against his six, and won; for the greedy old dog has +sent us no bullock. This morning a man offers me a draught bullock for +sale. The price demanded is fifteen metagals of this country, two and +a-half of which are equal to a Spanish dollar. He lowered his price to +eight, and the blacks offered seven, but eight were at last given. One +of our people mounted the naked back of the bullock, and rode him as +quietly and easily as a little pony. + + + + +NOTE ON THE TERRITORIAL DIVISION OF AHEER OR ASBEN. + + +In the text, a list of towns and villages has already been given. The +following, obtained from another source subsequently, is far more +complete, and probably more correct. In it the towns and districts are +all described according to their situation from Tintalous, the point +from which they are made to radiate, both with regard to their compass +direction and distance. This account of the territorial division of +Aheer is nearly an exact translation from an Arabic paper, drawn up by +Mahommed Makhlouk, Fighi and Secretary of the Sultan En-Noor. I have not +distinguished any of the emphatic letters, the present transcript being +enough for my purpose. + + +WESTERN DIVISION. + + Distance No. of Men. + +Satartar, N.W. 3 hours 100 +Takardaee 3 h. 30 +Akeeka 4 h. 20 +Asqudaee, S.S.W. 6 h. 120 +Tagharet 6 h. 50 +Tshagadmara 6 h. 20 +Ebenturaghak 8 h. 30 +Tugurut 10 h. 30 +Tshemeya 8 h. 100 +Edaka 2 days 150 +Taleghat 2 d. 50 +Agata 2 d. 50 +Tegheedda 1 d. 20 +Agalal 1-1/2 d. 100 +Eretawa 2 d. 50 +Ghargar-Dandamu 2 d. 50 +Yinwajuda 3 hours 40 +Tandawee 5 days 50 +Baeenabu 5 d. 50 +Sakalmas 6 d. 30 +Egadas (Aghadez) +Banfalas 6 hours 20 +Tanwansa. 6 h. 15 +Tingareegaree 6 h. 10 +Asaduragam 6 h. 50 +Areera 6 h. 30 +Tshezoulah 1 day 15 +Esalel 1 d. 30 +Tagurat 1-1/2 d. 30 +Abarakam 1-1/2 d. 30 +Tshemeleen 1-1/2 d. 30 +Egalak 1 d. 50 +Tshummuru 1 d. 50 +Tadanak 1 d. 20 +Asada 2 d. 50 +Bawas 1-1/2 d. 40 +Taoudaras 3 d. 40 +Tafaraghat 3 d. 40 +Shintaburag 4 d. 30 +Tasouba 4 d. 30 +Emalaoulee 5 d. 50 + + +NORTHERN DIVISION. + +Tamgag 2 days 300 +Takamas 1 d. 50 +Zeggagheen 2 d. 100 +Zalaelat 2 d. 300 +Tadag 3 hours 50 +Tintabourak 3 days 100 +Tafadad 4 d. 50 +Esnalam 4 d. 50 +Safes 2 d. 100 +Tagut 6 hours 20 +Takurnaraghat 1 day 70 +Aberkam 1 d. 40 +Tanutmulat 1 d. 30 +Tintaghoda, N.W. 2 d. 200 +Efruwan 2 d. 100 +Takreza 2 d. 60 +Kalfadaeee, N.W. 4 d. 500 +Fadaee, N.W. 4 d. 400 +Tidek, N.N.W. (a Wady) 3-1/2 d. +Wadekee 1 d. 20 +Anumagaran 2 d. 150 +Asarara, N.N.W. 2 hours 30 +Bungutan 2 days 150 +Tadoudawat 2 d. 100 +Bakerzuk 1 d. 20 +Azutu 4 d. 50 +Edukal 2 d. 80 +Agargar 6 hours 50 +Foudet 6 h. 20 +Maghet 1 day 40 +Tshafouak 1 d. 20 +Egatram 1 d. 20 +Seloufeeat, N.W. 2 d. 150 +Tafkun 2 d. 100 +Agalal 2 d. 100 +Dellan 4 d. 400 +Ekroun, N. 8 hours 60 + + +EASTERN DIVISION. + +Aghoua, N.E. 8 hours 50 +Amuzan {N.E. Three } 7 h. 100 +Amuzeen {places } 7 h. 20 +Amuzzan {adjoining. } 7 h. 10 +Azanghaeedan 8 h. 40 +Efarghar 8 h. 20 +Tazaranet (date palms) 1 day 40 +Aghaglee 1 d. 30 +Tshintajaee 1 d. 100 +Kalawazaee 1 d. 15 +Eyangal 1 d. 20 +Ajin-Yeeris 1 d. 100 +Afara 1 d. 20 +Tafusas 1 d. 10 +Zagadaou, S.E. 1 d. 50 +Tshintagheedeen 1 d. 100 +Maddad? +Tansumat 1 hour 10 +Alerasa 2 days 30 +Elakaran 1 d. 20 +Tezreera 2 d. 20 +Azaneeras, N.E. 1 or 2 d. 50 or 60 +Tanasuma } +Tanousamet } one place? 6 hours 10 +Talaou, E.W.E. 6 h. no people +Bukezan, N.E. 8 h. 15 +Atas 1 day 100 +Thaweezawa 1 d. 10 +Tagaee 1 d. 20 +Touweezawan 1 d. 40 +Elabag 1 d. 30 +Ebul? +Tagumarat 1 d. 100 +Gutag 1 d. 20 +Tadakeet 1 d. 30 +Aghazar-Nanou, S.E. 1 d. 20 +Azar 1 d. 100 +Aghammelaee 1 d. 30 +Zanwazgar 2 hours 10 +Thintaghalee 1 day 10 +Talaeeshena 1 d. 10 +Shafazres 2 d. 20 + + +SOUTHERN DIVISION. + +Shouwerkedan 2 days 30 +Atakaee or Tatakaee 3 d. 30 +Dagergadu 1 d. * +Aganjam 2 d. * +Baren Tafeedee 4 d. * +Ajeewa 4 days * +Tableel 3 d. * +Asawee 3 d. * +Amzagar 4 d. * +Takarakum 4 d. * +Tsheezan-Tarakat 2 d. * +Akaram 3 d. * +Tshehousat 3 d. * +Emugazem 4 d. * +Taraten 4 d. * +Tazeezaleet 4 d. * +Eface 4 d. * +Tshublaghlaghah 4 d. * +Mairee 2 d. 20 +Baouwat 3 d. 40 +Taghoura 4 d. 100 +Rasma 3 d. 30 +Afaraghab 3 d. 40 +Gursed 3 d. 30 +Shekareshoureen 2 d. 20 +Bomdaee 2 hours 30 +Jintalewat 1 day 20 +Tshinwanou 1 d. 50 +Gazawa 2 d. 10 +Talazeghreen 2 d. 1000 +Afasas 2 d. 1000 +Efoutsham 2 d. no people +Tuburneet (a well) 2 d. +Tammanee 2 d. 100 +Takarzarga 3 hours 15 +Anakkara 2 days 100 +Tshinkeewa 2 d. 20 +Wallag 2 d. 100 +Ekrenusoul 2 day 60 +Aghargharan-Tulama 3 d. 40 +Wuna 4 d. 100 +Ajeeru-Taleya 3 d. 200 +Barghut 4 d. 40 +Asaba 4 d. 30 +Takraoukaraou 4 d. 30 +Tourayal 5 d. 100 +Ekourak 6 d. 40 +Bagazem, S.W. 4 d. 380 +Taghaoujee 7 d. 600 +Nagharabu 2 d. no people +Enfasag 3 d. 100 +Tshegayeen 3 d. 40 +Tagbata 4 d. 15 +Nabaraou 4 d. 100 +Azangarran 3 d. no people +Anfag 4 d. 200 +Ekuffawan 4 d. 20 +Ataghas-Tawarat 4 d. 100 +Aghalgawa 4 d. no people +Egloulaf, S.W. 6 hours 200 + +In the places marked with a star there are no inhabitants, the people +having emigrated to Bornou, or been captured and carried thither. + +The number of men, or adult males enumerated in the above columns, +amounts to 12,731. Taking this number as the foundation-stone of +Asbenouee statistics, the population may be reckoned in this way, +according to the manners of the Kailouee people:-- + +Adult males 12,731 +Adult females (wives) 12,731 +Female slaves or concubines (a fifth of the adult) 5,000 +Children (two for every adult male) 25,462 +Town of Tintalous 450 +City of Aghadez 2,500 + ------ + 58,874 + +There are still remaining to be added in the computation the statistics +of numerous tribes on the frontiers, or surrounding Aheer and Aghadez. + + + + +END OF VOL. I. + + + +LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. 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