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diff --git a/17164-h/17164-h.htm b/17164-h/17164-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df19914 --- /dev/null +++ b/17164-h/17164-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,12190 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa, by James Richardson. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; empty-cells: show;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .blockquot {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .note { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 90%; border: 1px dashed black; padding: 4px; } + + .pageno {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + + .tocnum { width: 3em; text-align: right; position: absolute; right: 10%; padding-left: 2em; } + .toc { position: relative; } + + .bb {border-bottom: solid black 1px;} + + .centre {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .small { font-size: 80%; } + .summary {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 90%;} + + img { border: 1px solid black; } + + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 80%;} + .fnanchor {font-size: 80%;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa +Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1, by James Richardson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1 + Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government + +Author: James Richardson + +Release Date: November 27, 2005 [EBook #17164] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF A MISSION *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="note"> +<p class="centre">Transcriber's note:</p> +<p>This text contains the unicode characters ā, ă, ē, ĕ, ō and ŏ in a few places. +If any of these characters do not display in your browser, +please see the Latin-1 text version for a transcription.</p> +<p> +Some inconsistencies in the dates have been corrected in chapters XV and XVI: +September 29th changed to August 29th, October 1st to September 1st, and October 4th to September 4th. +</p> +</div> + +<h1>NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA</h1> +<p class="centre"><span class="smcap">Performed in the Years 1850-51,</span></p> + +<h3>UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.</h3> + +<p class="centre">BY THE LATE</p> + +<h2>JAMES RICHARDSON,</h2> +<p class="centre small">AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."</p> + +<h4>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h4> + + +<h3>VOL. I.</h3> + +<h4>LONDON:<br /> +CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.</h4> + +<hr style="width: 5%; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em;" /> + +<h5>MDCCCLIII.</h5> + +<p class="centre">LONDON:<br /> +Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><a name="pagev" id="pagev"></a><span class="pageno">[v]</span></p> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>The task of the Editor of these volumes has +been principally one of arrangement and compression. +The late lamented Mr. James Richardson +left behind him a copious journal, comprised +in eight small but closely-written volumes, besides +a vast heap of despatches and scattered +memoranda; and, at first sight, it seemed to +me that it would be necessary to melt the whole +down into a narrative in the third person. On +attentively studying the materials before me, +however, I perceived that Mr. Richardson had +written in most places with a view to publication; +and that, had he lived, he would soon +have brought what, on a cursory examination, +appeared a mere chaotic mass, into a shape +that would have accorded with his own idea +of a book of travels. Such being the case, I +thought it best—in order to leave the stamp of<a name="pagevi" id="pagevi"></a><span class="pageno">[vi]</span> +authenticity on this singular record of enterprise—to +do little more than the author would himself +have done. In the form of a diary, therefore—written +sometimes with Oriental <i>naïveté</i>—the +reader will here find what may be called the +domestic history of one of the most successful +expeditions undertaken for the exploration of +Central Africa. I believe it would have been +possible to get up a work of more temporary +interest from the same materials; but this could +only have been done by sacrificing truthfulness +of detail. In the present form, Mr. Richardson's +journal will always remain as an authority on +the geography and present condition of a large +portion of the Saharan desert, hitherto unvisited, +at any rate undescribed.</p> + +<p>As will be seen, the Mission was accompanied +by two German gentlemen, Drs. Barth and Overweg—the +former, of whom I had the pleasure of +meeting in Egypt, after his enterprising ride +along the coast of Libya. They are still in +Central Africa, pushing their excursions on all +sides, from Bornou into unknown tracts; and +the accounts they may publish on their return +will be anxiously looked for. The great traverse +of the Saharan desert, however, with all its vicissitudes<a name="pagevii" id="pagevii"></a><span class="pageno">[vii]</span> +and dangers, the physical aspect of that +wonderful region, and the manners of the various +tribes that inhabit it, will, in the present volume, +be found to be fully described—not, it is true, +with much attempt at literary ornament, but in +the vivid though simple language in which a +man sets down impressions which he has just +received. I have endeavoured to remove all the +faults which may be supposed to have arisen +from haste or carelessness, and have necessarily +re-written several passages, and passed a correcting +pen over the whole manuscript. But I think +I may say with confidence, that there is no observation +or statement in the following pages which +cannot be justified by a reference to the original +journals and scattered memoranda.</p> + +<p>To me this simple record of daily occurrences +seems highly interesting. It divides +itself, naturally, into a succession of parts of +unequal importance. First comes an account +of the journey to Mourzuk, the capital of Fezzan, +containing the traverse of the frightful Hamadah +or plateau which separates that province from +the regency of Tripoli. Then we have a residence +at Mourzuk itself, Mr. Richardson being +obliged to wait the arrival from Ghât of an<a name="pageviii" id="pageviii"></a><span class="pageno">[viii]</span> +escort of Tuarick chieftains, with whom he had +partly made acquaintance during a former trip +in the desert. This escort appeared after some +delay; and the Mission proceeded across the +Fezzan plains to the independent state of Ghât, +through a very wild and picturesque country. +At this point began, if not the most arduous, at +any rate the most dangerous, and at the same +time the most novel, part of the journey. Mr. +Richardson had undertaken, on his way to Soudan +Proper (his first destination), to pass by the +hitherto unexplored kingdom of Aheer or Asben, +situated towards the southern limits of the Sahara. +The march of the Mission across the +deserts that lie between Ghât and that territory +was rendered exciting by continual reports of +danger from pursuing freebooters of the Haghar +and Azgher tribes; but the enemy were outstripped, +and no actual attack took place until +the first inhabited districts of Aheer were reached. +Here some lawless tribes levied black-mail, +on the caravan, which was then permitted to +proceed, though in doubt and alarm, until it +arrived under the long-expected protection of +Sheikh En-Noor, one of the great chiefs of the +Kailouee tribes, at his town, or rather encampment,<a name="pageix" id="pageix"></a><span class="pageno">[ix]</span> +of Tintalous. Mr. Richardson's residence +at this place was long and tedious. He suffered, +besides, from the extortionate disposition of the +Sheikh or Sultan, who, however, after considerable +exactions, became his friend. This Saharan +character is brought out by a succession of +amusing touches. But our traveller was impatient +to proceed, and seems to have hailed +with delight the announcement that the great +Salt-Caravan, which annually transports the necessary +condiment from Bilma <i>viâ</i> Aheer to +the south, was about to start, and that the +Sheikh and the Christians were to accompany +it. Some further disappointments occurred, +but at length the Mission proceeded to Damerghou, +whence Drs. Barth and Overweg went, +one to Maradee and the other to Kanou, whilst +Mr. Richardson proceeded alone to Zinder, +situated in the province of Damagram. Here +he was well received by the Sarkee, or Governor, +and he dilates with well-founded exultation +on his escape from the insolent and +rapacious Tuaricks. Sad sights, however, connected +with the slave-trade, checked his delight. +During his stay the Sarkee went out in person +to hunt down the subjects of his own sovereign,<a name="pagex" id="pagex"></a><span class="pageno">[x]</span> +that he might pay his debts by selling them +into captivity. After another considerable delay +Mr. Richardson was enabled to start once more, +and being obliged to change his original plan +proceeded to Kuka, the capital of Bornou, by +way of Minyo. Shortly after leaving Gurai, +the chief town of that province, the unfortunate +traveller found his strength to be gradually +giving way. He had already previously +complained of the heat and fatigue, but did +not seem to have felt any great alarm. Now, +however, the climate seems to have told upon +him with sudden and fatal violence. His last +moments are described in a letter from his +fellow-traveller, Dr. Barth, who hastened to the +spot with laudable energy as soon as he heard +of the melancholy catastrophe that had taken +place. Mr. Richardson died at Ungurutua, +about six days' journey from Kuka, the capital +of Bornou, on the 4th of March, 1851, eleven +months after his departure from Tripoli.</p> + +<p>I have observed that the Mission, the first +transactions of which are described in these +volumes, is entitled to be called successful. +Although the original promoter and director +died just as he was on the point of reaching<a name="pagexi" id="pagexi"></a><span class="pageno">[xi]</span> +the termination of his journey, his enterprising +companions, Drs. Barth and Overweg, +seem to have carried on and developed admirably +the plan at first laid down. If they +be spared to return to Europe they will bring +home, no doubt, geographical information so +valuable that all Mr. Richardson's predictions +will be found to be amply fulfilled. As it is, +however, the object of our practical fellow-countryman +may be said to have been accomplished. +He did not lay so much stress on the accurate +determination of latitude and longitude, of the +heights of mountains and the courses of valleys, +as on matters that come more nearly home to +human sympathies. The abolition of the system +of slavery—many affecting illustrations of which +will be found in these volumes—seems to have +engaged the chief of his attention. It was with +this benevolent object that he originally turned +his attention to Africa; and he had become convinced +that the best means of effecting it was to +encourage legitimate traffic between Europe and +the great nurseries of slaves. Among other +things, he wished to show the possibility of entering +into treaties of amity and commerce with the +most important states of Central Africa; and<a name="pagexii" id="pagexii"></a><span class="pageno">[xii]</span> +although these treaties may not turn out to be +of great immediate utility, it is always worth +while that future explorers should know, that +on the borders of Lake Tchad there is a power +which professes to be united with England in +formal ties of friendship, and that the Sultan +of Bornou has never shown any disposition to +break his promises or secede from his engagements. +As to the question, whether legitimate +commerce can advantageously be carried on +across the Sahara, and substituted for the +frightful traffic in human beings, I do not +consider that it is as yet decided; but Mr. +Richardson's researches will throw great light +on this interesting subject.</p> + +<p>I do not intend here to attempt an account +of the services rendered by Mr. Richardson to +the sciences of geography and ethnography during +his useful career. At some future period, no +doubt, this task will be performed; and it will +not fail to be added, that he was always impelled +by a higher motive than the mere satisfaction +of curiosity or ambition. A profound +conviction that something might be done towards +ameliorating the condition of the African +nations, if we were only better acquainted with<a name="pagexiii" id="pagexiii"></a><span class="pageno">[xiii]</span> +them, seems to have early possessed him. This +it was that sustained and guided his footsteps; +and all who knew him unite in testifying that +he concealed beneath a pleasant, cheerful exterior, +the character of a Christian gentleman, +and an ardent crusader against the worst form +of oppression which has ever been put in practice. +The hope that the public will unite in +this opinion must certainly assist in consoling +his widow for the loss which she has sustained. +Mrs. Richardson is alluded to in the narrative +throughout. It is necessary, therefore, to say, +that that lady remained in Tripoli until the news +of her bereavement reached her, and that she +then returned to England to promote the erection +of this best monument to her husband's memory.</p> + +<p>I have now only to add an account written +by Dr. Barth (dated April 3, 1851) of the +death of Mr. Richardson, in a letter addressed +to Mr. Crowe, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul-General +at Tripoli. The German traveller, +as will be seen in the second volume of +this work, had separated from his English +companions on the plains of Damerghou, and +proceeded to prosecute other researches, the +results of which will be looked for with great +interest:—<a name="pagexiv" id="pagexiv"></a><span class="pageno">[xiv]</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"It was on the 25th of March," he says, "that I +heard accidentally from a Shereef, whom I met on the +road, the sad news that my companion had died, about +twenty days before, in a place called Ungurutua, six days' +journey before reaching Kuka, when I hurried on as +fast as my horse would allow in order to secure his +papers and effects from being lost or destroyed.</p> + +<p>"I now shall send you a short account of Mr. +Richardson's death, as far as I was able to make out +the circumstances from his servant. Mr. Richardson +is said to have left Zinder in the best health, though it +is probable that he felt already very weak while he was +there: for, according to the man whom he hired in +Zinder as his dragoman, he had, while there, a dream +that a bird came down from the sky, and when sitting +on the branch of a tree, the branch broke off and the +bird fell down to the earth. Mr. Richardson being very +much affected by this dream, went to a man who from a +huge book explains to the people their dreams. On +the man's telling him that his dream meant death, he +seems really to have anticipated that he would not reach +the principal object of his journey. But, nevertheless, he +seemed to be quite well, mounting even the horse +which the Governor of Zinder had made him a present +of, as far as Minyo, when he begged the Governor to +give him a camel, which he mounted thenceforward. +He felt notoriously ill in Kadalebria, eleven or twelve +days' journey from here (Kuka); and he is said by his +servant to have taken different kinds of medicines, one +after the other: from which you may conclude that he<a name="pagexv" id="pagexv"></a><span class="pageno">[xv]</span> +did not know himself what was his illness. Mr. +Richardson never could bear the sun, and the sun being +very powerful at this time of the year, it must have +affected him very much. I think this to be the chief +reason of his death; at least, he seems not to have had +a regular fever. He was happy to reach the large town +of Rangarvia after a journey of three short days, and +had the intention of returning from here directly to +Tripoli, without touching at Kuka and the low, hot +plain of Bornou, which he was affrightened of very +much. He offered two hundred mahboubs for a guide +to conduct him directly to the road to Bilma; but there +being no road from here, and no guide having been +found, it was necessary first to go to Kuka.</p> + +<p>"Mr. Richardson, therefore, seems to have taken +strong medicines; in consequence of which, in the evening +of the third day of their halt at Rangarvia, after +having taken a walk through the town, he felt well enough +to fix his outset for the next morning. But this day being +rather a long one, and the sun being very powerful, he +became very tired and unwell; and the more so as, notwithstanding +his illness, he had not left off drinking +milk, even on his camel, mixing some brandy with it. +Having recovered a little during the night, he moved on +the next morning, but ordered a halt about noon, on +account of his weakness. Having started again at sunset, +they encamped at midnight. The next day, after +a short journey, they reached the Wady Mettaka. Mr. +Richardson seemed to feel much better, and drank milk +and a little jura, besides rice. From this place, on the last<a name="pagexvi" id="pagexvi"></a><span class="pageno">[xvi]</span> +day of Kebia-el-awel, the caravan, after but a two-hours' +march, reached the village called Ungurutua, when Mr. +Richardson soon felt so weak that he anticipated his +death; and leaving the hut (where he was established) for +his tent, told his dragoman, Mahommed Bu Saad, that he +would die. Being consoled by him that his illness was of +no consequence, he assured him several times that he had +no strength at all; and indeed his pulse ceased almost +to beat. He began, then, to rub his feet with vinegar, +and applied the same several times to his head and +shoulders. After which, in the absence of his servants, +he poured water also over himself; so that, when they +returned after a few moments, they found him quite +wet. To counteract the bad effect of this proceeding, +they began to rub him with a little oil. In the evening +he took a little food, and tried to sleep; but notwithstanding +that he seems to have taken something to +bring on sleep, he threw himself restless from one side +to the other, calling his wife several times by her +name. After having walked out of his tent with the +assistance of his servant, he ordered tea, and remained +restless on his bed. When it was past midnight, his old +dragoman, Yusuf Moknee, who watched in his tent, +made some coffee, in order to keep himself awake; upon +which Mr. Richardson demanded a cup of coffee for +himself; but his hand being so weak that he could +scarcely raise the cup, he said to Moknee: '<i>Tergamento +Ufa</i>,'—'Your office as dragoman is finished;' and repeated +several times, with a broken voice, '<i>Forza mafishe, +forza mafishe le-koul</i>,'—'I have no strength, I<a name="pagexvii" id="pagexvii"></a><span class="pageno">[xvii]</span> +have no strength, I tell you,' at the same time laying +Mahommed's hand on his shoulder. Feeling death +approaching, he got up in a sitting posture, being supported +by Mahommed, and soon expired, after three +times deep breathing. He was entirely worn out, and +died quietly, about two after midnight, Tuesday, 4th +March (Jumed-el-awel), without the least struggle. +His servant then called into the tent the other people +and the Kashalla, or officer of the Sheikh, who had +come along with them from Zinder, in order to be +witness, and while wrapping the body of the deceased in +three shirts which they had cut up, ordered the people +of the village to dig a grave for him. They then shut +up whatever of the luggage of Mr. Richardson was not +locked up, and prepared everything for their journey to +Kuka. Early in the morning they lifted the body, +wrapped up as it was, upon Mr. Richardson's carpet, +and carried him to his grave, which had been dug in +the shade of a large gaw, close to the village, to the +depth of four feet. Having then covered his head and +breast with a very large tabah, so as to protect it from +every side, they covered the body with earth, and had +the grave well secured. I have spoken several times +with Haj Beshir that it might be well taken care of, +and I am sure the grave of the traveller, who sacrificed +his life for his great object, will be respected. I send +you with this first kafila all Mr. Richardson's papers +and his journal, which is kept till the 21st February, +consisting of six reams, and his vocabularies, not +finished, four reams, with Yusuf's journal, as well as<a name="pagexviii" id="pagexviii"></a><span class="pageno">[xviii]</span> +all his other papers or letters. I have taken out only +the letters of recommendation of the Mission and the +papers concerning the treaty to be made, as well as a +letter from Lousou, one of the Tuaricks, and another +from Ibrahim, the Governor of Zinder, to the Queen, +which I shall enclose in my report to Government. I +send you, besides, an authentic list of all the objects +found in Mr. Richardson's possession, as it has been +made up on the things being deposited with Haj +Beshir.</p> + +<p>"I beg you to assure Mrs. Richardson of my most +sincere sympathy, and that I hope she will find a good +deal of consolation in the rich journal of the deceased."</p></div> + +<p>I have given the above narrative in the +words of Dr. Barth; but must direct the +reader's attention to vol. ii. p. 261, where he +will find that the whole account of the prophetic +dream is distorted by the very unauthentic +medium of Oriental report. There is +no reason to suppose that Mr. Richardson was +unusually affected by this circumstance, although +any dismal suggestion is likely to disturb a +person of sensibility placed in a dangerous position. +The remaining facts, as they seem confirmed +by concurrent testimony, may be taken +as a sufficiently accurate account of the death +of this lamented traveller.<a name="pagexix" id="pagexix"></a><span class="pageno">[xix]</span></p> + +<p>From the statements which have from time +to time appeared in the press, the public are +already aware, that the presents and the treaty +intended for the Sheikh of Bornou were duly +presented and accepted, and that the boat which +caused Mr. Richardson so much anxiety on the +road was ultimately launched, as he desired, on +lake Tchad, and employed in the survey of that +celebrated piece of water. It is unnecessary +here to notice the results of this survey, or of +the explorations subsequently undertaken by +Messrs. Barth and Overweg. These gentlemen, +it is to be hoped, will be more fortunate than +their colleague, and return to give in person an +account of their exertions and discoveries.</p> + +<p>I shall conclude by expressing my hope +that Mr. Richardson's reputation will not suffer +from the way in which I have superintended +the publication of his remains, and my regret +that I am not able to do justice to the great +services which he has rendered to philology by +his copious collections of vocabularies of the +languages, both of the Sahara and of the various +kingdoms of Central Africa.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bayle St. John.</span><br /> +<span class="small"><i>London, January 1853.</i></span><a name="pagexx" id="pagexx"></a><span class="pageno">[xx]</span></p> + +<p>P.S. It may be as well to mention that +the extensive collections of vocabularies made +by Mr. Richardson are now preserved at the +Foreign Office, together with specimens of translations +from the Scriptures. All these collections +are extremely valuable, but especially those +of the Bornou language, which were much +wanted.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><a name="pagexxi" id="pagexxi"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="contents" id="contents"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<div class="toc"> + +<h3><a href="#chapter1">CHAPTER I.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Origin of the Missions—Its Objects and Plan—Preparations—Arrival +at Tripoli—Prussian Colleagues—Necessary Delay—The +Boat for Lake Tchad—Wind-bound—Anxieties at Tripoli—Correspondence +with Mourzuk and Ghât—Circular Letter of +Izhet Pasha—Composition of the Caravan—An aristocratic +Interpreter—A Mohammedan Toper—The Chaouches—Free +Blacks returning to their Countries—Marabout—Camel-drivers—Rate +of Desert travelling—Trade of Tripoli with the Interior—Slavery—Caravans +from Central Africa—Details on Commerce—Promotion +of legitimate Traffic—Spread of Civilisation. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter2">CHAPTER II.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Start from the Masheeah—Painful Parting—Chaouch's Tent—A +Family Quarrel—Wady Majeeneen—A Rainy Day—Moknee's +Wives—Two mad Fellows—Great Ascent of Gharian—Tedious +Day's Work—The Castle—View over the Country—Garrison—Troglodytes—Turkish +Tax-gathering—Quarrelsome Servants—Proceed +over the lofty Plain—Underground Villages—Kaleebah—The +Batoum—Geology—A Slave Caravan—Cheerful Blacks—Rows—Oasis +of Mizdah—Double Village—Intestine Discords—Interview +with the Sheikh Omer—A Pocket Province—A +Dream of Good Omen—Quarrels on Quarrels—Character of +Fezzanees—A Leopard abroad. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +</div> + +<p><a name="pagexxii" id="pagexxii"></a></p> + +<h3><a href="#chapter3">CHAPTER III.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Leave Mizdah—Gloomy Country—Matrimonial Squabbles in the +Caravan—"Playing at Powder"—Desert Geology—A Roman +Mausoleum—Sport—A Bully tamed—Fatiguing March—Wady +Taghijah—Our old Friend the Ethel-Tree—The Waled Bou Seif—Independent +Arabs—A splendid Mausoleum—One of the +Nagahs foals—Division of a Goat—March over a monotonous +Country—Valley of Amjam—Two new Trees—Saluting the New +Moon—Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah—Wady Tubooneeah—Travelling +Flies—The Desert Hour—A secluded Oasis—Buying +Barley—Ghareeah—Roman Remains—Oasian +Cultivation—Taxation—Sand-Pillar—Arrangements for crossing the +Hamadah—An <i>Emeute</i> in the Caravan—Are compelled to discharge +the quarrelsome Ali. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Commence crossing the Hamadah—Last Pillar of the Romans—Travelling +in the Desert—Rapid March—Merry Blacks—Dawn—Temperature—Ali +returns—Day-travelling—Night-feelings—Animals—Graves +of Children—Mirage—Extent of the Plateau—It +breaks up—Valley of El-Hasee—Farewell to the Hamadah—Arduous +Journey—The Camel-drivers—New Country—Moral +and religious Disquisitions—The Chaouches—Reach +Edree—Abd-el-Galeel—Description of Edree—Subterranean Dwellings—Playing +at Powder—The Kaïd—Arabic Literature—Desertion +of the Zintanah—Leave Edree—Sandy Desert—Bou Keta the +Camel-driver—Wady El-Makmak—The Lizard—Reach Wady +Takadafah—Sand—Another <i>Embroglio</i>. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter5">CHAPTER V.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>More sandy Desert—Fatiguing March—Water and +Herbage—Water-drinking—Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk—Hot +Wind—Arrival in El-Wady—Tuaricks—Laghareefah—Fezzanees—The +Chaouches astray—The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady—Description +of the Oasis—Tempest—Native Huts—Official Visits—Desert +News—Camel-drivers—Ruins of Azerna—Move on—The<a name="pagexxiii" id="pagexxiii"></a> +Kaïd—Modest Requests—Ladies of the Wady—Leave the +Oasis—Vast Plain—Instinct of the Camel—Reach +Agar—Reception—Precede the Caravan—Reach Mourzuk—Mr. Gagliuffi—Honours +paid to the Mission—Acting Pasha—Climate—Route +from Tripoli—Its Division into Zones—Rain in the +Desert. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>The Oasis of Fezzan—Population—Ten Districts—Their +Denomination and Condition—Sockna—Honn—Worm of the Natron +Lakes—Zoueelah—Mixed Race—Improvements in Mourzuk—Heavy +Ottoman Yoke—Results of the Census—Amount of Revenue—Military +Force—Arab Cavaliers—Barracks—Method of +Recruiting—Turkish System superior to French—Razzias—Population +of Mourzuk—Annual Market—Articles of Traffic—Acting-Governor +and his Coadjutors—Story of a faithless Woman—Transit +Duties in Fezzan—Slave Trade—Sulphur in the Syrtis—Proposed +Colony from Malta. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page82">82</a></span></p> +</div> + + + +<h3><a href="#chapter7">CHAPTER VII.</a></h3> + +<h4>DIARY OF A RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.</h4> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Sickness of Gagliuffi—Baggage left at Mizdah—Runthar Aga—The +Hospital—Various Visits—Arrival of the New Governor—Animated +Scene—Correspondence—Visit Mustapha Agha—Bragging +Sheikh Boro—Tibboos of Tibesty—Curious Country—Presents +to Turkish Functionaries—A Woman divorced—Haj +Lameen—Presents expected—Brilliant Atmosphere—Water-Melons—The +Gardens—Winnowing Grain—Houses of Salt +Mud—Nymphs of the Gardens—Wells—Presents to +Functionaries—Phrenology—Queen's Birthday—Walks in the Orchards +and Gardens—Corn-threshing—Kingdom of Aheer—Ass's Head—A +Wedding—A Funeral—Great Dinner—Tibboos—Prepare +to depart—The Pilgrim Caravan; its Privileges—Tuat and the +French—Departure of Germans—Wife of Es-Sfaxee—An Arab +Saying—Letters—Disease—Arrival of Escort—Eastern +Consulates—Business—Hateetah—The Son of Shafou—Poor Sheikhs—Hard +Bargain. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +</div> + +<p><a name="pagexxiv" id="pagexxiv"></a></p> + +<h3><a href="#chapter8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Wars in the Interior—Anticipated Disputes—Mr. Boro of Aghadez—Our +Treatment at Mourzuk—Mustapha Bey—Start for Ghât—Row +with the Escort—Fine Weather—Leave Tesaoua—Sharaba—Travelling +in the Heat—Hateetah and the Germans—The +Camels—Snakes—Journey continued—Nature of the Country—Complete +Desert—Rain—Overtake the Caravan—Interview +with Boro—Pool of Ailouah—The Tanelkums—Halt—Birds—Bir +Engleez—Wind in the Desert—Begging Escort—Brilliant +Heavens—News from Ghât—The Pilgrims again—Bas-relief of +Talazaghe—Moved over the Desert—Mountains—Extraordinary +Pass—Central Table-land of Fezzan. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter9">CHAPTER IX.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Plain of Taeeta—Fezzan Boundary—Fossils—Tuarick Behaviour—Valley +of Tabea—Observations—Fasting—Tuarick Habits—Scorpions +and Locusts—Visitors—Heat—Roads—Hot Wind—Pass +of Abulaghlagh—The Palace of Demons—Wheat hid in +the Desert—Land of Demons—Kasar Janoon—A dear Camel—Visit +to the Kasar—Perilous Adventure of Dr. Barth. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter10">CHAPTER X.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Approach Ghât—Description of the Town—The Oasis—Reminiscences +of a former Visit—Azgher Tuaricks—The Governor—Political +Authority—The Sheikhs—Protection of Strangers—The +Litham—Business—Reception—Meetings of Sheikhs—Disputes—Tax +on liberated Slaves—Extortion practised on us—Discussion +on the Treaty—Scramble for Presents—Haj +Ahmed disinterested—Hateetah plays double—More Presents +and further Annoyances—Mahommed Kafa—Escort of Kailouees—A +Visit from Ouweek and the Bandit of Ghadamez—Observations +on the Treaty—Collection of Dialogues—The +Great Exhibition. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +</div> + +<p><a name="pagexxv" id="pagexxv"></a></p> + +<h3><a href="#chapter11">CHAPTER XI.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Start from Ghât—Reflections—Beautiful Valley of Berket—Last +Date-palms—The Kailouees—Dr. Barth lost again—Meet our +Guides—The Akourou Water—Ghadeer—Soudan Influence on +the Tuaricks—Wataitee leaves us—Oasis of Janet—Kailouee +Character—A sick Slave—Rocky Desert—Gloomy Scene—Servants—Egheree +Water—Ajunjer—A threatened Foray from +Janet—Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf—We have no Money—Region +of Granite—Dr. Barth's Comparisons—A Slave Caravan—Granite +Rocks—Beating Women—The Bird of the Desert—Desolate +Region—Our Relations with the Kailouees. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter12">CHAPTER XII.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Reach Falezlez—Dates left in the Desert—Road-marks—Disputes +with the Kailouees—News from Tidek—Scarcity of Food in +Aheer—Similitudes and Signs of the Tuaricks—Fine Climate—Arrival +of Wataitee—His Boasting—Saharan travelling—My +Umbrella—Grasping Son of Shafou—Geology of the Desert—The +"Person who gives"—Another Caravan—Tuarick Sportsmen—Wady +Aroukeen—Fine Scene—New Trees—Kailouee +Camels—Fine Nights—Well—New Moon—Passing a Caravan +in the Desert—Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks—Arrive at +Tajetterat—No Robbers—An Alarm—Well of Esalan—Senna—Birds—Graves +of Slave Children—Our Grievances against the +Tuaricks. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page187">187</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter13">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>News of Sidi Jafel—Disputes with Wataitee—His violent Conduct +and strange Language—The Desert—Scarcity of Money—Proceed +through a rocky Country—Soudan Weather—Approach +the Frontiers of Aheer—Storm—Hard Day's Travelling—The +Seven Wells of Aisou—"The Haghar are coming"—Suspicious +Characters—Alarm—The Three Strangers—Our Hospitality—Heat +of the Weather—Hard Travelling—Account of the Kailouee +Guides—Women of the Caravan—Their Treatment—Youthful +Concubines—Another long Day—A Rock-Altar—Demonstrations<a name="pagexxvi" id="pagexxvi"></a> +of the Haghar—Wells of Jeenanee—Marks of +Rain—Sprightly Blacks—New Climate—Change in the Vegetation +and the Atmosphere. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page205">205</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter14">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer—Hostile Tuaricks—An impudent +Demand—The Merchant Waldee—Prepare for Defence—Threatening +Appearances—Making Friends with Presents—March—Leave +Waldee—Doubtful Visitors—The Camels stolen—The +Troop of Assailants draws nigh—Parley—Their Proposition—We +are compelled to a Compromise—Character of our +Enemies—Sinister Rumours again—Proceed toward Tidek—Wady +of Kaltadak—Picturesque Scenery—A Friend from Seloufeeat—Fresh +Mob collects to attack us—Conferences—We are +to be let go scot-free if we become Muslims—We repose—Another +Compromise for Money—Incidents during the Night—Quarrel +over the Booty—Enter the Valley of Seloufeeat—Its +Soudan Appearance—Nephew of Sultan En-Noor—Haj Bashaw +of Seloufeeat—We are still uneasy. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page224">224</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter15">CHAPTER XV.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Leave Seloufeeat—"City of Marabouts"—Fair Promises—People +of Aheer—Aspect of the Country—Extraordinary Reports—A +Flying Saint—Prophecies—A Present—Expense of our forced +Passage—Hopes—Fears—The Marabouts—Geology—The +coming down of the Wady—Inundation—Restoration of our +Camels—Maharees from En-Noor—El-Fadeea—Arab +Tuaricks—Maghata—Picturesque Wady—Rainy Season—Another Flood—Dangerous +Position—Kailouees and Blacks—The Escort +arrives—The Marabout Population—Reported Brigands—The +Walad Suleiman—Pleasant Valley—Escort leave us—Difficulty +of satisfying them—Robbery—Proceed to Tintalous—Encampment—The +Sultan—A Speech—We wait in vain for Supper—Want +of Food. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page241">241</a></span></p> +</div> + +<p><a name="pagexxvii" id="pagexxvii"></a></p> + +<h3><a href="#chapter16">CHAPTER XVI.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Promises of the Sultan—Yellow-painted Women—Presents—Anecdotes—Prepare +to visit En-Noor—Our Reception—Dialogue—Seeming +Liberality of the Sultan—Greediness of his People—No +Provisions to be got—Fat Women—Nephew of the Sultan—Tanelkum +Beggars—Weather—A Divorced Lady—Aheer Money—Our +Camels again stolen—Account of the Tanelkums—Huckster +Women—Aheer Landscape—Various Causes of +Annoyance—No News of the Camels—Anecdote of my +Servants—Storms—Revolution in the Desert—Name of the Country—Dr. +Overweg—Money and Tin—Saharan Signs—Habits of the +Rain—Burial of a Woman—Demands of Es-Sfaxee—Salt-cakes +of Bilma—People of Tintalous—Wild Animals—List of Towns +and Villages—Population of Aheer and Ghât. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page264">264</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter17">CHAPTER XVII.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Zinder Caravan—Negress playing "Boree"—Curious Scene—Objects +of Barter—Fresh Annoyances—Remarks on our +Reception in Aheer—En-Noor—Asoudee—Better News—Fresh +Extortions—En-Noor disappoints us—Europeans taken for +Spies—Things in demand at Aheer—Exercise—Overweg's +Patients—Wild Animals in Aheer—Kailouees in dry Weather—Robbing +a Prince—Ghaseb and Ghafouley—Aheer Cheese—Mokhlah +Bou Yeldee—Our Wealth noised abroad—Alarm at +Night—A fresh Attack—Saïd's Gallantry—Disorderly Protectors—Thirteen +Robbers—Amankee—Loss of my Tea—Country of +Thieves. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page286">286</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>We shift our Encampment—En-Noor's Circular—The Kadi's Decision—No +Progress in the Sahara—Aghadez Gumruk—Scorpions—Election +of Sultans in Aheer—Present of Salutation—Paying for +finding lost Property—Courier from the new Sultan—No Presents +sent us—Notes on Denham—A Bornouese<a name="pagexxviii" id="pagexxviii"></a> Measure—Intended +Razzia—Firing off Gunpowder—Hypotheses of Danger—Dress +and Women—Enroute to Bilma—Soudan Caravan—Visit from +Tintaghoda—Aheer Honey—Modes of Measurement—Power of +En-Noor—Visits to him from great People—Stations on the Bilma +Road—Salt-Trade—Account of our Pursuers at Tajetterat—Costume +of the Kailouees—Their Weapons—Poisoned Arrows—Charms—Female +Dress—Names of Articles of Costume—Character of +Kailouees. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page303">303</a></span></p> +</div> + +<h3><a href="#chapter19">CHAPTER XIX.</a></h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Rainstorm—Overtures from En-Noor—Another Interview—Aheer +Fashions—A great Lady—Hoisting the British Flag—A devoted +Slave—Sultan of Asoudee—Attack on a Caravan—Purposed +Razzia—Desert News—Buying Wives—A peculiar Salutation—Oasis +of Janet—New Razzias—Costume of the Sultan—The +Milky Way—Noise at a Wedding—Unquiet Nights—Sickness +in the Encampment—A captive Scorpion—Nuptial +Festivities—An insolent Haghar—Prejudice about Christians—Movements +in Aheer—Bullocks. <span class="tocnum"><a href="#page319">319</a></span></p> +</div> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><a name="pagexxix" id="pagexxix"></a><span class="pageno">[xxix]</span></p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a href="images/map.jpg"> +<img src="images/map_thumb.jpg" alt="Outline of Part of Africa +Showing the Progress of the Mission" title="Outline of Part of Africa +Showing the Progress of the Mission" /> +</a> +</div> +<p class="centre" style="margin-top: 0; font-size: 80%;">[click the image to see the full map]</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><a name="page1" id="page1"></a><span class="pageno">[1]</span></p> + +<h2>NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA.</h2> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="chapter1" id="chapter1"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Origin of the Missions—Its Objects and Plan—Preparations—Arrival +at Tripoli—Prussian Colleagues—Necessary Delay—The +Boat for Lake Tchad—Wind-bound—Anxieties at Tripoli—Correspondence +with Mourzuk and Ghât—Circular Letter of +Izhet Pasha—Composition of the Caravan—An aristocratic +Interpreter—A Mohammedan Toper—The Chaouches—Free +Blacks returning to their Countries—Marabout—Camel-drivers—Rate +of Desert travelling—Trade of Tripoli with the Interior—Slavery—Caravans +from Central Africa—Details on Commerce—Promotion +of legitimate Traffic—Spread of Civilisation.</p> +</div> + +<p>Since my return from a first tour of exploration +in the Great Sahara I had carefully revolved in my +mind the possibility of a much greater undertaking, +namely, a political and commercial expedition to +some of the most important kingdoms of Central +Africa. The plan appeared to me feasible; and +when I laid it in all its details before her Majesty's +Government, they determined, after mature consideration, +to empower me to carry it out. Two +objects, one principal, necessarily kept somewhat<a name="page2" id="page2"></a><span class="pageno">[2]</span> +in the background—the abolition of the slave-trade; +one subsidiary, and yet important in itself—the promotion +of commerce by way of the Great Desert; +appeared to me, and to the distinguished persons +who promoted the undertaking, of sufficient magnitude +to justify considerable sacrifices. Much preliminary +discussion took place; but the impediments +and difficulties that naturally start up at the commencement +of any enterprise possessing the character +of novelty were gradually overcome, and in +the summer of 1849 it was generally known that +I was about to proceed, by way of Tripoli and the +Sahara, and the hitherto unexplored kingdom of +Aheer, to endeavour to open commercial relations +and conclude treaties with any native power so +disposed, but especially with the Sultan of Bornou. +It was not thought necessary, however, to surround +my Mission with any circumstances of diplomatic +splendour; and it was still in the character of +Yakōb—a name already known throughout the +greater portion of the route intended to be traversed—that +I proposed to resume my intercourse with the +Moors, the Fezzanees, the Tibboos, the Tuaricks, +and other tribes and peoples of the desert and the +countries beyond.</p> + +<p>The various preparations for the expedition +occupied a considerable time before I could leave +Europe; but I shall pass over all account of these, +and enter as soon as possible on the plain narrative +of my journey. We reached Tripoli on January<a name="page3" id="page3"></a><span class="pageno">[3]</span> +the 31st, 1850, having come circuitously by way of +Algeria and Tunis. Divers reasons, on which it is +unnecessary to enlarge, had prevented us from +adopting a more direct route. However, there had, +properly speaking, been no time lost, and we had still +to look forward to inevitable delays. An expedition +of the kind we were about to undertake cannot be +performed in a hurry, especially in Africa. In that +continent everything is carried on in a deliberate +manner. The climate is in itself suggestive of procrastination; +and no one who has there had to +do with officials, even of our own country, until he +has himself felt the enervating influence of the +atmosphere, can fail to have been held in ludicrous +suspense between indignation and surprise.</p> + +<p>It must here be mentioned that, associated with +me in this expedition, were two Prussian gentlemen, +Drs. Barth and Overweg, who had volunteered to +accompany me in my expedition in the character of +scientific observers.</p> + +<p>The political and commercial nature of my Mission +by no means excluded such auxiliaries. It was +desirable that every advantage should be taken of +this opportunity to explore Central Africa in every +point of view; and when the proposition came to +me under the sanction of Chevalier Bunsen, and +received the approval of her Majesty's Government, +I could not but be delighted. It was arranged that +these gentlemen should travel at the expense and<a name="page4" id="page4"></a><span class="pageno">[4]</span> +under the protection of Great Britain, and that their +reports should be duly forwarded to the Foreign +Office.</p> + +<p>Drs. Barth and Overweg, with European impetuosity, +eager at once to grapple with adventure +and research, had pushed on whilst I waited for +final instructions from Lord Palmerston. They had +arrived at Tripoli about twelve days before me, +and, as I afterwards learned, had usefully and +pleasantly occupied their time in excursions to the +neighbouring mountains, which I had previously +visited and examined on my way to Ghadamez.</p> + +<p>We learned on landing, that a good deal of the +anxiety I had felt on account of my slow progress +from England had been thrown away. Our arms, +instruments, and stores, had not yet arrived from +Malta. However, they were promised for an early +date, and the hospitable reception afforded us by +Mr. Consul-general Crowe, as well as the knowledge +that a vast number of small details of preparation +could be immediately commenced, contributed +to console us.</p> + +<p>Among the things expected, and which arrived +in due time, was a boat built by order of the +Government in Malta dockyard. It was sent in +two sides, and I wished to carry it in that state. +But this proved impossible, and just before starting +we were compelled to saw each side into two pieces, +which were to be carried slung in nets upon a<a name="page5" id="page5"></a><span class="pageno">[5]</span> +couple of powerful camels. This boat was expressly +intended for the navigation of Lake Tchad.<a name="anchor1" id="anchor1"></a><a href="#footnote1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>It was universally admired at Tripoli; and, as it +will be useless to bring it back, will form a most +acceptable present for the Sultan of Bornou. I +cannot omit to notice, in passing, the courtesy and +attention of the authorities of Malta with whom I +have been in communication; they have all done +their best to forward the objects of the Mission.</p> + +<p>A good deal of the delay that took place at +Tripoli arose from causes over which it was impossible +to exert any control, and principally from the +bad weather, which cut off all communication with +Malta. We used to go about relating the anecdote +of Charles V. illustrative of the inhospitable seasons +of this coast. "Which are the best ports of Barbary?" +inquired the Emperor of the famous Admiral +Dorea. "The months of June, July, and August," +was the reply.</p> + +<p>Whilst waiting for the winds to waft us so many +desirable things, we actively engaged in hiring +camels, procuring servants, and otherwise making +ready for a start. The details of all these preparations, +which cost me prodigious anxiety, as I was +obliged to study at the same time efficiency and +economy, are described in a voluminous mass of correspondence; +but I should not think of presenting<a name="page6" id="page6"></a><span class="pageno">[6]</span> +them to the general public, which will be satisfied +probably to know that at length everything was +found to be in due order, and our long-expected +departure was fixed for the 30th of March.</p> + +<p>I had taken care, immediately on my arrival at +Tripoli, to write to Mr. Gagliuffi, the British Consul +at Mourzuk, announcing my approach and enclosing +a despatch from the Foreign Office. Moreover I had +requested this gentleman at once to send to Ghât for +an escort of Tuaricks, so that we might not be unnecessarily +detained in Fezzan; and to suggest that +the Sheikhs should be assembled by the time we +arrived, that the treaty I had to propose to them +might be discussed. My former visit to this place +will in some respects pave the way. Throughout the +Turkish provinces of Tripoli and Fezzan a circular +letter given to us by Izhet Pasha, and the letters of +the Bey of Tunis in other quarters, will no doubt +prove of some assistance, although such documents +must lose much of their influence in the very secluded +districts through which we shall be compelled to +pass. After all, we must trust principally to our +own tact, to the good will of the natives, and to that +vague respect of English power which is beginning +to spread in the Sahara.</p> + +<p>The composition of our caravan will of course +fluctuate throughout the whole line of route; but I +may as well mention the most important personages +who were to start with me from Tripoli. Setting +aside my colleagues, Barth and Overweg, there was,<a name="page7" id="page7"></a><span class="pageno">[7]</span> +in the first place, the interpreter, Yusuf Moknee, a +man really of some importance among his people, +but considering himself with far too extravagant a +degree of respect. He is the son of the famous +Moknee, who was Governor of the province of +Fezzan during the period of the Karamanly Bashaws. +He has squandered his father's estate in +intemperate drinking. Nevertheless I have been +recommended to take him as a dragoman, and give +him a fair trial, as his only vice really seems to be +attachment to the bottle. I suspect he will not find +many opportunities of indulging his propensity in +the Sahara; so that, as long as he is <i>en route</i>, he +may prove to be that phenomenon, a man without a +fault! At any rate I must be content with him, +especially as he is willing to sign a contract promising +to be a pattern of sobriety! There is no one +else in Tripoli so suitable for my purpose. He is a +handsome, dark-featured fellow, and when in his +bright-blue gown, white burnoose, and elegant fez, +makes a really respectable figure. I must dress +him up well for state occasions. Even in the +desert one is often judged by the livery of one's +servants.</p> + +<p>The individuals next in importance to Moknee +are, perhaps, the Chaouches, as they are called here—Arab +cavaliers, who are to act as janissaries. There +is one big fellow for me, and one little fellow for the +Germans. How they will behave remains to be seen; +but I suspect they will give us some trouble. Then<a name="page8" id="page8"></a><span class="pageno">[8]</span> +there are a number of free blacks from Tunis, some +married, others not, who are to return to their homes +in Soudan, Bornou, and Mandara, under our protection. +Some of these have agreed to travel partly +on their own account, or nearly so, whilst others will +be paid and act as servants. One of them, named +Ali, is a fine, dashing young fellow. They are very +unimportant people here, but as we advance on our +route will no doubt prove of some service, especially +when we fairly enter upon the Black Countries. A +marabout of Fezzan also accompanies us, and our +camel-drivers are from the same country. They +arrived with a caravan from Mourzuk, and we were +some time detained by the necessity of allowing them +and their beasts to rest before recommencing their +march over the very arduous country that lies between +this and the confines of Fezzan.</p> + +<p>Our progress will necessarily be slow, as all travelling +is in the desert. Camels can rarely exceed +three miles an hour, and often make but two. We +may calculate their average progress at two miles +and a half, so that the reader will be pleased to +bear in mind, that when I speak of a laborious day +of twelve hours, he must not imagine us to have +advanced more than thirty miles.</p> + +<p>Before commencing the narrative of my journey, +it may be as well to introduce a few observations on +the commerce at present carried on with the interior +by way of Tripoli. In addition to the mere acquisition +of geographical, statistical, and other information,<a name="page9" id="page9"></a><span class="pageno">[9]</span> +I look upon the great object of our mission +to be the promotion, by all prudent means, of legitimate +trade. This will be the most effectual way of +putting a stop to that frightful system by which all +the Central Provinces of Africa are depopulated, +and all the littoral regions demoralized. When the +negro races begin to make great profits by exporting +the natural products of their country, they will then, +and perhaps then only, cease to export their brethren +as slaves. On this account, therefore, I take +great interest in whatever has reference to caravan +trade.</p> + +<p>There are now four general routes followed by +the trading caravans from the Barbary coast, leading +to four different points of that great belt of +populous country that stretches across Central +Africa,—viz. to Wadaï, Bornou, Soudan, and Timbuctoo.</p> + +<p>Wadaï sends to the coast at Bengazi a biennial +caravan, accompanied by a large number of slaves. +The chief articles of legitimate traffic are elephants' +teeth and ostrich feathers. This route is a modern +ramification of interior trade, and was opened only +during the last century. It is calculated that the +exports of Bengazi form one-third of the whole of +those of Tripoli.</p> + +<p>Bornou sends to the coast by way of Fezzan, I +am sorry to say, chiefly slaves; but a quantity of +ivory is now likewise forwarded by this route.</p> + +<p>Soudan exports slaves, senna, ivory, wax, indigo,<a name="page10" id="page10"></a><span class="pageno">[10]</span> +skins, &c. &c. Nearly half of the commerce with +this important country consists of legitimate articles +of trade and barter. This is very encouraging, and +the brief history of some of these objects of legal +commerce is exceedingly interesting. Wax, for +example, began to be sent seventeen years ago; +elephants' teeth, fifteen; and indigo, only four years +ago.</p> + +<p>Timbuctoo now scarcely forwards anything but +gold to the coast of Tripoli, together with wax and +ivory, but no slaves. The gold is brought by the +merchants in diminutive roughly-made rings, which +they often carry in dirty little bags, concealed in the +breasts of their gowns.</p> + +<p>I am exceedingly glad to learn that the Ghadamsee +merchants, who formerly embarked two-thirds +of their capital in the slave-trade, have now +only one-fourth engaged in that manner. This is +progress. It has been partly brought about by the +closing of the Tunisian slave-mart, partly by the +increase of objects of legitimate commerce in the +markets of Soudan. The merchants of Fezzan have +still to learn that money may be invested to more +advantage in things than in persons; but their education +has been undertaken, and however slow the +light may be in forcing its way to their eyes, it will +reach them at last, there can be no doubt.</p> + +<p>The trade in senna is always considerable. Last +year a thousand cantars were brought, from the +country of the Tibboos and from Aheer. The latter<a name="page11" id="page11"></a><span class="pageno">[11]</span> +place supplies the best. New objects of exportation +may no doubt be discovered. Already gum-dragon +and cassia have been added to the list of articles +brought from Soudan; and when once treaties of +commerce have been entered into, and merchants +begin to find security in the desert and protection +from the native princes, there is no doubt that a very +large intercourse may be established with the interior +countries of Africa—an intercourse that will +at once prove of immense benefit to us as a manufacturing +nation, and advance materially that great +object of all honest men, the abolition of the accursed +traffic in human beings. It is the latter object that +chiefly occupies my mind, but I shall not attempt +to bring it before the native princes in too abrupt a +manner. In some cases, indeed, to allude to it at +all would be disastrous. The promotion of legitimate +traffic must, after all, be our great lever.</p> + +<p>I do not profess in this place to do more than +give a few hints on the present state of trade in +Tripoli, and the vast tract of half-desert country on +which it leans. What I have said is perhaps sufficient +to impart some idea of the nature of the +relations between the Barbary coast and the interior, +and to suggest the importance of the enterprise +on which I am engaged. Briefly, the exportation +of slaves to Tripoli and beyond, in spite of +certain changes of route, is as rife as ever, and in +this respect everything remains to be done. But, on +the other hand, the trade which, I trust, is providentially<a name="page12" id="page12"></a><span class="pageno">[12]</span> +intended to supersede this inhuman traffic, +is on the increase, though slightly. If we can pave +the way for the civilising steps of European commerce, +either by treaties or by personal influence, +we shall have accomplished a great work. Let us +hope and pray that the necessary health, strength, +and power of persuasion be granted to us!</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p> +<a name="footnote1" id="footnote1"></a><a href="#anchor1">[1]</a> It has since been launched under the British flag, and has proved +useful in the examination of the shores of the great lake of Central +Africa.—<span class="smcap">Editor.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page13" id="page13"></a><span class="pageno">[13]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter2" id="chapter2"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Start from the Masheeah—Painful Parting—Chaouch's Tent—A +Family Quarrel—Wady Majeeneen—A Rainy Day—Moknee's +Wives—Two mad Fellows—Great Ascent of Gharian—Tedious +Day's Work—The Castle—View over the Country—Garrison—Troglodytes—Turkish +Tax-gathering—Quarrelsome Servants—Proceed +over the lofty Plain—Underground Villages—Kaleebah—The +Batoum—Geology—A Slave Caravan—Cheerful Blacks—Rows—Oasis +of Mizdah—Double Village—Intestine Discords—Interview +with the Sheikh Omer—A Pocket Province—A +Dream of Good Omen—Quarrels on Quarrels—Character of +Fezzanees—A Leopard abroad.</p> +</div> + +<p>The preliminary miseries of a great journey being +at length over, I rose early on the morning of the +30th of March and started from the Masheeah, +a kind of suburb of Tripoli, distant in the country, +at six. Hope and the spirit of adventure sustained +my courage; but it is always sad to part with those +we love, even at the call of duty. However, I at +length mustered strength to bid adieu to my wife—the +almost silent adieu of affection. How many +things that were thought were left unsaid on either +side! It will be pleasant to fill up all blanks when +we talk of these days after a safe return from this +arduous undertaking.</p> + +<p>It was a fresh, cheerful morning, succeeding +several days of sultry weather—an auspicious commencement<a name="page14" id="page14"></a><span class="pageno">[14]</span> +of the journey. My chaouch, Mohammed +Souweea, preceded me on his great horse, murmuring +some Arab ditty, and I followed hard on my +little donkey. The desert assails the walls of Tripoli, +and in half an hour we were in the Sahara +sands, which here and there rise in great mounds. +I should have liked to have pushed on to some considerable +distance at once; but the habits of the +country are dilatory, and one must conform to them. +In a couple of hours we came to the chaouch's tent, +where he had a wife, five children, and seven brothers, +one of whom was blind. He, too, was to go +through the sad ceremony of parting with his +family; and he burst into tears when they surrounded +and embraced him. I am sorry to say, however, +that before this affecting scene was concluded, +a quarrel had began between the blind man and the +chaouch's wife, about two Tunisian piastres which +were missing, she accusing him of theft and he +indignantly repelling the charge. These Easterns +seem to have minds constructed on different patterns +from ours, and are apt to introduce such petty +discussions at the most solemn moments; but we +must not, therefore, be hasty in concluding that there +is any sham in their sorrow, or affectation in their +pathetic bewailings.</p> + +<p>They brought in a bowl of milk, and as the +chaouch still continued to caress his children, I left +him to pass the night in his tent, and pushed on to +Wady Majeeneen, where my portion of the caravan<a name="page15" id="page15"></a><span class="pageno">[15]</span> +had already encamped. Mr. F. Warrington, with +my German colleagues, were a little in advance. +The horses of the Pasha's cavalry were feeding +around; for when the first belt of sand is past, the +country becomes an undulating plain—a prairie, +as they would call it in America—covered with +patches of corn herbage. Here and there are fields of +barley; and a few Arab tents, with flocks and herds +near at hand, give a kind of animation to the scene.</p> + +<p>Next day (21st) it rained hard; but we went on +a little to overtake Drs. Barth and Overweg, whom +we found in company with Mr. F. Warrington, Mr. +Vice-consul Reade, and Mr. Gaines the American +consul. One of Mr. Interpreter Moknee's wives +had also come out here, to have some settlement +with her husband about support before she let him +go. The gentleman has two wives, both negresses; +and had already made an arrangement for the other, +who has several children, of six mahboubs per +month. First come, first served. The second wife, +who has two children, only got three mahboubs a +month. However, when matters were arranged, +the pair became rather more loving. These settlements +are always hard matters to manage, all the +world over, and it is pleasant to get rid of them. +By the way, a son of the worthy Moknee, by a +white woman now dead—a lad of about twelve years +of age—accompanies us, at least as far as Mourzuk.</p> + +<p>The most remarkable persons, however, whom +I found at the encampment were a couple of insane<a name="page16" id="page16"></a><span class="pageno">[16]</span> +fellows, determined to follow us—perhaps to show +"by one satiric touch" what kind of madcap enterprise +was ours. The first was a Neapolitan, who +had dogged me all the while I was at Tripoli, pestering +me to make a contract with him as servant. +To humour his madness, I never said I would not; +and the poor fellow, taking my silence for consent, +had come out asking for his master. They tried to +send him away, but he would take orders from +none but me. I gave him two loaves of bread and +a Tunisian piastre, and also made him a profound +bow, politely requesting him to go about his business. +He did so in a very dejected manner. During +the time he was with the caravan he worked as hard +as any one else in his tattered clothes, and, perhaps, +he would have been of more use than many a +sane person.</p> + +<p>The other was a madman indeed, a Muslim, +with an unpleasant habit of threatening to cut everybody's +throat. Hearing that we were going to Soudan, +he followed us, bringing with him a quantity +of old metal, principally copper, with which he proposed +to trade. He gave himself out as a shereef, +or descendant of the Prophet. No sooner had he +arrived than he begun to quarrel on all sides, and, +of course, talked very freely of cutting throats, stabbing, +shooting, and other humorous things. Every +one was afraid of him. He fawned, however, on us +Europeans, whilst he had a large knife concealed +under his clothes ready to strike. They were obliged<a name="page17" id="page17"></a><span class="pageno">[17]</span> +at length to disarm him, and send him back under +a guard to Tripoli. We here took leave of Mr. +Reade, who gave me some last explanations about +letters to the interior. It rained furiously in the +afternoon.</p> + +<p>We were kept idle a whole day by the rain; +but starting on the second, turned off sharp in the +afternoon towards the mountains, and encamped at +length in a pretty place fronting the great ascent +of Gharian. The appearance of the chain here differs +in no important particular from that of any +other part of the Tripoline Atlas. The formation is +calcareous, but the colours vary to the eye by the +admixture of minerals. Groups of sandstone are +not uncommon. Rounded, rugged heads, vary the +outline of the plateau; and here and there are deep, +abrupt valleys, cut down through the range, with +groves of fig-trees, almonds, aloes, pomegranates, +and even grapes, nestling in their laps. Bright +water-courses, springing up in the depths of these +ravines, sustain the streaks of half-buried verdure.</p> + +<p>We rose early to commence the ascent. It is +not difficult unless the camels are very heavily +laden; but we did not reach the Castle of Gharian +until three in the afternoon. Our caravan dotted +with groups of various outline and colour the slopes +of the spur, up the side of which the track wound, +in a very picturesque manner. Sometimes the foremost +camels stood still and complained; and then +there was a half-halt throughout the whole long<a name="page18" id="page18"></a><span class="pageno">[18]</span> +line. The drivers plied the stick pretty freely on +the gaunt flanks of their beasts; the cry of "<i>Isa! +Isa!</i>" resounded in irregular chorus; pebbles and +stones came leaping down at the steep parts. As +we rose over the brown slopes, the thin forests of +olive-trees partly covering the undulating plateau +beyond, with fields of barley and wheat here and +there, gladdened our eyes, and contrasted well with +the hungry country we had left in the rear.</p> + +<p>The castle, sufficiently picturesque in structure, +is placed over a deep ravine, but is commanded by +the mountain behind. We turned back on nearing +it, and beheld the plain we had traversed appearing +like the sea enveloped in mist and cloud. In +fine weather the minarets of Tripoli can be seen, +but now the northern horizon faded off in haze. +On either hand the steep declivities of the hills presented +a wall-like surface, here and there battered +into breaches, from out of which burst little tufts of +green, revealing the presence of springs.</p> + +<p>There are 200 troops stationed at the castle +under Colonel Saleh, to whom we paid an official +visit; as also to the Kaïd of Gharian. In both cases +we were hospitably treated to pipes, coffee, and +lemonade. In this canton are said to be the fanciful +number of "one hundred and one" Arab districts, +inhabited by the Troglodytes. All the villages, indeed, +hereabouts, are underground: not a building +is to be seen above, except at wide intervals an old +miserable, crumbling, Arab fort. The people are<a name="page19" id="page19"></a><span class="pageno">[19]</span> +easily kept in order by the summary Turkish +method of proceeding; for they are entirely disarmed, +and matchlocks, powder and ball, are contraband +articles. The first word of an Oriental +tax-gatherer is "Pay!" and the second is "Kill!"</p> + +<p>The outset of a journey in the East is usually +employed in finding out the vices of one's servants. +Their virtues, I suppose, become manifest afterwards. +We were on the point of sending our +chaouch back from Gharian for dishonesty; but as +we reflected that any substitute might be still worse, +we passed over the robbery of our barley, and +merely determined to keep a good look-out. This +worthy, though useful in his sphere, often, as I had +anticipated, proved a sad annoyance to us. When +he seemed to refrain from cheating and stealing, he +rendered our lives troublesome by constant quarrellings +and rows—he and his fellow attached to my +German companions—<i>Arcades ambo!</i></p> + +<p>Mr. Frederick Warrington and the American +Consul took leave of us on the morning of the 5th. +Starting afterwards about nine, we soon left the +Castle of Gharian behind, and continued our course +in a direction about south-west, amongst olive-woods +and groves of fig-trees. The country was varied +enough in appearance as we proceeded. Great +masses of rock and cultivated slopes alternated. +The vegetation seemed all fresh, and sometimes +vigorous. Few birds, except wild pigeons, appeared. +Many of the heights which we passed were crowned<a name="page20" id="page20"></a><span class="pageno">[20]</span> +with ruined castles, mementoes of the past dominion +of the Arabs. We saw some of the Troglodytes +coming from underground now and then, and +pausing to look at us. Their dress is a simple +barracan, or blanket-mantle, thrown around them; +few indulge in the luxury of a shirt; and they go +armed with a great thick stick terminating in a +hook. They look cleanly and healthy in spite of +their burrowing life, but are fox-like in character +as in manners, and bear a reputation for dishonesty.</p> + +<p>A little after mid-day we descried afar off the +village of Kaleebah, which is built above-ground, +and occupies a most commanding position on a +bold mountain-top. It remained in sight ahead a +long time, cheating us with an appearance of nearness. +The inhabitants resemble, in all respects, their +mole-brethren, and occupy themselves chiefly in cultivating +olives and barley. Government exacts +from them two imposts—one special, of a hundred +and fifty mahboubs on the olive-crops; and one +general, of five hundred mahboubs. We passed the +village at length, and encamped an hour beyond. +Here were the last olive-groves which were to cheer +our eyes for many a long month—many a long +year, maybe. Their dark masses covered the swells +right and left, and near at hand isolated trees formed +pleasant patches of shadow.</p> + +<p>We left our camping-ground at length next +day, having overcome the obstinate sluggishness of +the blacks, and marched nearly nine hours. The<a name="page21" id="page21"></a><span class="pageno">[21]</span> +barren forms of the desert begin now to appear, +the ground being broken up into huge hills that +run mostly in circles, and groups, and broad stony +valleys. The formation is limestone, often containing +flints, with a little sandstone. Patches of barley +here and there splashed this arid surface with green. +At a great distance we saw two or three Arab tents, +and one flock of sheep. Towards evening began to +appear a number of beautiful bushy trees, somewhat +resembling our oak in size and appearance. +The Arabs call them "Batoum." They do not seem +to have yet received their proper botanical classification. +Desfontaines describes the tree as the <i>Pistacia +Atlanticis</i>. It greatly resembles the <i>Pistacia +lentiscus</i> of Linnæus. A few solitary birds, a flight +of crows, lizards and beetles on the ground; no +other signs of life.</p> + +<p>The next day the country became more barren +still, and the batoum disappeared. The patches +of barley likewise ceased to cheer the eye; and +little pools of water no longer sparkled in the rocky +bottoms, as near Kaleebah. The geological formation +was nearly the same as yesterday; but pieces +of crystalline gypsum covered the ground, and the +limestone here and there took the form of alabaster. +Some of the hills that close in the huge basin-like +valleys are of considerable elevation, and have conic +volcanic forms. All was dreary, and desolate, and +sad, except that some ground-larks whirled about; +lizards and beetles still kept crossing our path;<a name="page22" id="page22"></a><span class="pageno">[22]</span> +and a single chameleon did not fade into sand-colour +in time to escape notice. No animals of the +chase were seen; but our blacks picked up the +dung of the ostrich, and a horn of the aoudad. Here +and there we observed the broken columns of Roman +milestones, some of them covered with illegible +inscriptions. The sockets generally remain +perfect. We saluted the memory of the sublime +road-makers.</p> + +<p>About noon, as we were traversing these solitudes +in our usual irregular order of march, a +crowd of moving things came in sight. It proved +to be a slave-caravan, entirely composed of young +girls. The Gadamsee merchants who owned them +recognised me, and shook me by the hand. Our +old black woman was soon surrounded by a troop +of the poor slave-girls; and when she related to +them how she was returning free to her country +under the protection of the English, and wished +them all the same happiness, they fell round her +weeping and kissing her feet. One poor naked +girl had slung at her back a child, with a strange +look of intelligence. I was about to give her a +piece of money, but could not; for, the tears bursting +to my eyes, I was obliged to turn away. The +sight of these fragments of families stolen away to +become drudges or victims of brutal passion in a +foreign land, invariably produced this effect upon +me. This caravan consisted of some thirty girls +and twenty camel-loads of elephants' teeth. They<a name="page23" id="page23"></a><span class="pageno">[23]</span> +had been seventy days on their way from Ghât, including, +however, thirty-four days of rest. Most +of these poor wretches had performed journeys on +their way to bondage which would invest me with +imperishable renown as a traveller could I accomplish +them.</p> + +<p>The caravan was soon lost to view as it wound +along the track by which we had come. This day +was exceedingly hot, whereas the previous days had +reminded us of a cool summer in England. The +nights have hitherto been clear, and the zodiacal +light is always brilliant. Our blacks keep up pretty +well. There are now nine of them; five men, three +women, and a boy. They eat barley-meal and oil, +and now and then get a cup of coffee. I also feed +the Fezzanee marabout, besides those specially attached +to the expedition. As to the camel-drivers, +they are an ill-bred, disobliging set, and I give +them nothing extra. How different are our negroes! +They are most cheerful. As we proceed, they +run hither and thither collecting edible herbs; and, +like children, making the way more long in their +sport. Sometimes their amusements are less pleasant, +and they seem systematically to take refuge +from <i>ennui</i>, in a quarrel. Two of them began to pelt +each other with stones to-day; allies dropped in on +either side; laughter was succeeded by execrations; +and the whole caravan at length came to loggerheads.</p> + +<p>The sidr, or lote-tree, is abundant in these +parts, and it is curious to notice how in the spring<a name="page24" id="page24"></a><span class="pageno">[24]</span> +season the green leaves sprout out all over the +white burnt-up shrub. All vegetation in the desert +that is not perfectly new seems utterly withered by +time. There is scarcely any medium between the +bud and the dead leaf. Infancy is scorched at once +into old age.</p> + +<p>As we advanced, the country appeared to put on +sterner forms, until suddenly, in the afternoon, the +rocks opened to disclose the Wady Esh-Shrâb +nestling amidst limestone hills, and containing the +pleasant oasis of Mizdah. Its beauties consist, in +reality, but of a few patches of green barley and +scanty palm-groves; but, in contrast to the sultry +desert, the scene appeared really enchanting.</p> + +<p>We have now left the Troglodytes behind us. +Mizdah (eight summer and ten winter days from +Ghadamez, three short days from Gharian, and the +same from Benioleed) is built above-ground, and +consists of a double village, or rather two contiguous +villages, inhabited by people of the Arab race. +Each division is fortified after a fashion, with walls +now crumbling, and with round crenulated towers. +One large tower, some fifty feet high, has stood, they +say, four hundred years. I asked, What was the +use of these fortifications? and was naïvely told +they were for the purposes of <i>shamatah</i>, "war," or +rather "rows." And true enough, before the Turks +extended their power so far, these two beggarly +villages, fifty miles from any neighbours, were in +constant hostility one with the other. Each had its<a name="page25" id="page25"></a><span class="pageno">[25]</span> +great tower, a giant among all the little towers—a +kind of keep, to which the defeated party retired to +recruit its strength or escape utter destruction. +This is likewise the case with many other double +towns of the Sahara, and seems to prove that war is +the native passion and trade of man. At any rate, +punishment for such turbulence has not been wanting; +for in this, as in so many other cases, whilst these +poor wretches were engaged in cutting one another's +throats, the conqueror has come and established his +tyranny. They are now paying the penalty of their +love of shamatah in the shape of an impost of four +hundred mahboubs per annum, and in numbers are +reduced to about a hundred and thirty heads of +families.</p> + +<p>We had some additional camel-drivers from +Kaleebah, who, of course, endeavoured to extort +more than they had agreed for. When we had +squabbled with them a little, we had the honour of +receiving Sheikh Omer, of Mizdah, in the tent. He +came with about thirty notables of the place, the +greater part of whom sat outside the doorway, whilst +he stroked his beard within, indulging in a touch of +eau de Cologne and a cup of coffee. We read him +the circular-letter of Izhet Pasha, and received all +manner of civilities. The next day, indeed, he came +to us to serve as guide through the country over +which he wields delegated dominion. He had not +far to go. His empire is a mere pocket one. The +palm-trees are about three hundred in number, and<a name="page26" id="page26"></a><span class="pageno">[26]</span> +there are but half-a-dozen diminutive fields of barley +ripening in the ear, fed by irrigation from several +wells which supply tolerably sweet water. A few +onion-beds occur in the little gardens, which are +partially shaded by some small trees.</p> + +<p>Sheikh Omer supplied us with copious bowls of +milk; the most refreshing thing, after all, that can +be drank in the heat of the day. We were, however, +impatient to get off, but had to wait for a blacksmith +to shoe the horses of our chaouch. The only knowing +man in this department was away at some neighbouring +village, and it was necessary to send messengers +to find him. There being nothing better to +do, the day, accordingly, was spent in quarrelling. +We had at least a hundred tongue-skirmishes between +our people and the people of Mizdah—between our +chaouch and the other chaouch—between our chaouch +and the sheikh of the country—between Yusuf and +the Fezzanee—between every individual black and +every other individual black—Between our chaouch +particularly and all the people of Mizdah:—in short, +there were as many rows as it were possible for a +logician to find relations betwixt man and man.</p> + +<p>I must not forget that our chaouch, in spite of all +this effervescence, had got up this morning in a +very pious state of mind. He told us that a marabout +had appeared to him in a dream, and had said, +"O man! go to Soudan with the Christians, and +thou shalt return with the blessing of God upon +thee!" This vision seemed to have made a deep<a name="page27" id="page27"></a><span class="pageno">[27]</span> +impression upon him at the time, but he had forgotten +it long before it had ceased to be the subject +of my anxious thoughts—"O God, I beseech thee, +indeed, to give us a prosperous journey! But thy +will be done. We are entirely in thy hands!"</p> + +<p><i>April 10th.</i>—We had another glorious row this +morning before starting. A man who had gone to +fetch the blacksmith, and found him not, demanded +payment of two Tunisian piastres. The chaouch, +suspecting that he never went at all, but concealed +himself in the village, would not pay him. This +brought on a collision. Sheikh Omer supported +us; and so all the people of the other village took +part against us. Two of them were armed, and +some of us thought it advisable to load our pistols. +At last, however, we pushed them away from the +tent by force; and, in the first moment of indignation, +wrote a letter to the Pasha about them. +Hearing of this, they came to beg us not to send +the letter, which was accordingly torn up by the +Sheikh. My chaouch was the great actor in all +this affair; and it was necessary that I should support +him, even if he were a little wrong, otherwise +he would have had no confidence in himself or us +in cases of difficulty.</p> + +<p>The Sheikh, who, as well as ourselves, has lost +some little things during these days, gives the people +of Mizdah a very bad character. In the scuffle, I +noticed that they called him <i>Fezzanee</i>, which is used +as a term of insult in these parts. "All the Fezzanees<a name="page28" id="page28"></a><span class="pageno">[28]</span> +are bad people, and all their women courtezans," +says my chaouch.</p> + +<p>There is a large leopard reported to be abroad +near the oasis of Mizdah. He escaped from Abdel-Galeel, +who brought him from Soudan, and creates +great terror among the camel-drivers. They say, +with unspeakable horror, "The nimr eats all the +weak camels!" He has already devoured two. He +drinks in the neighbouring wady, where there is +water six months of the year. During the remainder +he is capable, they say, of doing without +drinking.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page29" id="page29"></a><span class="pageno">[29]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter3" id="chapter3"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Leave Mizdah—Gloomy Country—Matrimonial Squabbles in the +Caravan—"Playing at Powder"—Desert Geology—A Roman +Mausoleum—Sport—A Bully tamed—Fatiguing March—Wady +Taghijah—Our old Friend the Ethel-Tree—The Waled Bou Seif—Independent +Arabs—A splendid Mausoleum—One of the +Nagahs foals—Division of a Goat—March over a monotonous +Country—Valley of Amjam—Two new Trees—Saluting the New +Moon—Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah—Wady Tubooneeah—Travelling +Flies—The Desert Hour—A secluded Oasis—Buying +Barley—Ghareeah—Roman Remains—Oasian +Cultivation—Taxation—Sand-Pillar—Arrangements for crossing the +Hamadah—An <i>Emeute</i> in the Caravan—Are compelled to discharge +the quarrelsome Ali.</p> +</div> + +<p>We started for Mizdah, at length, towards noon, +Sheikh Omer bringing us a little on our way, and, +begging to be well spoken of in high quarters; and +after passing the ruins of two Arab castles that +frown over the southern side of Wady Esh-Shrâb, +got into a gloomy country, exactly resembling that +on the other side of the oasis, except that the strata +of the limestone rocks, instead of being horizontal +are inclined. The whole desert, however, wears +a more arid appearance. Yet there were some +lote-trees here and there, and a few tholukhs. The, +traces of the aoudad were noticed; and the blacks,<a name="page30" id="page30"></a><span class="pageno">[30]</span> +picking up its dung, smelt it as musk, saying, "It +is very good." As I jogged on upon my camel, the +oppressive heat caused me to sleep and dream in +the saddle of things that had now become the province +of memory.</p> + +<p>More quarrels! The chaouches are boiling over +again; they must fight it out between them. No +doubt they are both correct in exchanging the +epithet of "thief." Scarcely has the grumbling of +these two terrible fellows died away, when the +blacks are at it amongst themselves. He who has +two wives gets hold of his blunderbuss, and threatens +to blow himself to pieces. Nobody interferes; +there is little public spirit in a caravan: so he consents +to an explanation, saying sententiously, "My +little wife is mad." The fact is, his two helpmates, +one young and one old, are vastly too much for him, +as they would be for most men. He moves along +in a perpetual family tornado. The mother of the +young one, a sort of derwish negress, is a tremendous +old intriguer, and stirs up at least one feud a day. +Quarrelling is meat and drink to her.</p> + +<p>It would have been out of character had not Ali +got up a little convulsion on his own account. One +day, in the Targhee's absence, he took his gun to +"play at powder," and using English material, succeeded +in splitting the machine near the lock. +When the Targhee returned, and found what +damage had been done, he began first to whimper, +and then working himself up into a towering passion,<a name="page31" id="page31"></a><span class="pageno">[31]</span> +swore he would shoot the culprit. Scarcely +with that weapon, O Targhee! When his excitement +was over, I offered to make a collection among +the people to indemnify him; but he shook his +head, laughed, and refused. The gun was nearly +all his property, and he had just bought it new at +Tripoli.<a name="anchor2" id="anchor2"></a><a href="#footnote2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> + +<p>All this part of Northern Africa may be compared +to an archipelago, with seas of various +breadths dividing the islands. Three days took us +from Tripoli to Gharian, and three more to Mizdah. +We were now advancing across the preliminary +desert stretching in front of the great plateau of the +Hamadah, which defends, like a wall of desolation, +the approaches of Fezzan from the north. At first +occur broken limestone hills, as previous to Mizdah; +but when we approach the plateau the aspect of the +hills changes, and they are composed chiefly of +variegated marl mixed with gypsum, and with a +covering of limestone. Fossil shells were picked up +at intervals. Some huge, irregular masses, that +appeared ahead during the first day, were mistaken +by us for the edge of the plateau; but we broke +through, and left them right and left as we proceeded. +They are great masses of limestone and red +clay, in which are scooped deep valleys, many of +them supplied with abundant herbage. As yet we<a name="page32" id="page32"></a><span class="pageno">[32]</span> +have never attained a level of more than 2500 feet +above the level of the sea. Water must exist +underground, if we may argue from the presence of +the aoudad and the gazelle. Indeed, out of the +line of route, amongst the hills, there are wells and +Arab tents. The presence of Roman remains reminds +us that the country has seen more prosperous +times. We encamped on the 11th in a wady, overlooked +by the ruins of a mausoleum, which had +assumed colossal proportions in the distance. Some +Berber letters were carved upon its walls; probably +by Tuaricks, who had formerly inhabited the +district.</p> + +<p>One of our blacks this day killed a lêfa, the +most dangerous species of snake; and several thobs +or lizards were caught. The greyhound of the +Fezzanee also ran down a hare. Next day it +procured us a gazelle; but with these exceptions +were seen only ground-larks, and what we call in +Lincolnshire water-wagtails.</p> + +<p>It is worth mentioning that at this place our +chaouch sprained his ankle, and Dr. Overweg applied +spirits of camphor as lotion. This terrible fellow, +this huge swaggerer, this eater-up of ordinary timid +mortals, was reduced to the meekness of a lamb by +his slight accident; and for the first time since the +caravan was blessed with his presence did he remain +tranquil, breathing out from time to time a +soft complaint. In the course of the day he had +contrived to make himself particularly disagreeable.<a name="page33" id="page33"></a><span class="pageno">[33]</span> +First he fell out with the servant of the Germans, +Mahommed of Tunis. Then he quarrelled with us +all, because he picked up a blanket for somebody +and was refused his modest demand of three piastres +as a reward. We are heartily glad that he is tamed +for awhile.</p> + +<p>On the 12th, shortly after we started, I happened +to look behind and saw, coming from the +west, some clouds that seemed to give promise of +rain. Already I felt the air cooled by anticipation, +but was soon undeceived. In the course of an hour +a gheblee began to blow, and continued to increase +in violence until it enervated the whole caravan. +Our poor black women began to drop with fatigue, +and we were compelled to place them on the camels. +Here was a foretaste of the desert, its hardships +and its terrors! The air was full of haze, through +which we could scarcely see the flagging camels, +with their huge burdens; and the men, as they +crawled along, were apparently ready to sink on the +ground in despair. We breathed the hot atmosphere +with difficulty and displeasure.</p> + +<p>Right glad were we then, at length, to reach the +Wady Taghijah, where I at once recognised my old +desert friend, under whose spreading and heavy +boughs I once had passed a night alone in the +Sahara,—the ethel-tree! It is a species of <i>Pinus</i>, +growing chiefly in valleys of red clay on the top +of mounds, which are sometimes overshadowed by +a gigantic tree, with arms measuring four feet in<a name="page34" id="page34"></a><span class="pageno">[34]</span> +circumference. Of its wood are made the roofs of +houses, the frames of camel-saddles, and bowls for +holding milk and other food. With the berries and +a mixture of oil the people prepare their water-skins, +as well as tan leather. The valley is strewed +with huge branches, cut down for the purpose of +extracting resin. The ethel and the batoum are +the most interesting of desert-trees, and I shall +regret to exchange them for the tholukh. I wrote +down the names of fourteen shrubs found in the +valley of Taghijah: two of them, the sidr and the +katuf, are edible by man; the rest, with the exception +of the <i>hijatajel</i>, afford food for the camels.</p> + +<p>In this valley, amongst the trees, we found the +flocks and horses of the Waled Bou Seif feeding. +This tribe—the children of the Father of the Sword—are +wandering Arabs, who have never acknowledged +the authority of the Tripoli Government. +They possess flocks, camels, and horses,—every element, +in fact, of desert wealth. All the mountains +near and round about Mizdah are claimed by them +as their country, which has never, perhaps, been reduced +by any power but the Roman. A young +man of the tribe, who was tending some sheep in +the valley, came to visit us. He was a fine, cheerful +fellow, with an open countenance, well dressed, +having, besides his barracan, red leather boots, trousers, +and a shirt. All his tribe, according to his +account, are so dressed. He boasted of the independence +of his people, who number three thousand<a name="page35" id="page35"></a><span class="pageno">[35]</span> +strong, and extend their influence as far south +as Ghareeah. The name of the tribe is derived, he +tells us, from a great warrior who once lived, and +was named by the people Bou Seif, because he +always carried a sword.</p> + +<p>Our chaouch gave us an account of this young +man in the following strain:—"He is in very deed +a marabout! His wife never unveiled her face to +any man; and his own mother kisses his hand. He +is master of wealth, and never leaves this valley. +He has a house and flocks of sheep, and a hundred +camels, which always rest in the valley, bringing +forth young, and are never allowed to go into the +caravans," &c. &c.</p> + +<p>We were detained during the whole of the 13th, +because the water was at a distance and our people +had to fetch it. There were marks of recent rain in +the valley, but there is no well; only a few muddy +puddles. Dr. Barth, in wandering about, discovered +here a splendid mausoleum, of which he brought +back a sketch. It was fifty feet high, of Roman-Christian +architecture,—say of the fourth or fifth +century. No doubt, remains of cities and forts will +be discovered in these districts. Such tombs as +these indicate the presence in old time of a large +and opulent population.</p> + +<p>One of the nagahs foaled this day, which partly +accounts for our detention. For some time afterwards +the cries of the little camel for its mother, +gone to feed, distressed us, and called to our mind<a name="page36" id="page36"></a><span class="pageno">[36]</span> +the life of toil and pain that was before the little +delicate, ungainly thing. It is worth noticing, that +the foal of the camel is frolicsome only for a few +days after its birth—soon becoming sombre in aspect +and solemn in gait. As if to prepare it betimes for +the rough buffeting of the world, the nagah never +licks or caresses its young, but spreads its legs to +lower the teat to the eager lips, and stares at the +horizon, or continues to browse.</p> + +<p>Our people clubbed together and bought a goat +for a mahboub. They then divided it into five lots, +and an equal number of thongs was selected by the +five part-owners of the meat; these were given to a +stranger not concerned in the division, and he arbitrarily +placed one upon each piece, from which +decision there was no appeal.</p> + +<p>On the 14th we rose before daybreak, and were +soon in motion. No change was noticed in the country, +limestone rocks and broad valleys running in all +directions. The ground is sometimes scattered with +fossil shells, some of the <i>exogyra</i>, others of the oyster +species; all flints. There were apparent traces of +the hyæna, but of no other wild animals. Some +sheep were at graze; and the long stubble of last +year's crop of barley, in irregular patches, told us +that when there is copious rain the Arabs come to +these parts for agricultural purposes. We noticed +the English hedge-thorn here and there, and thought +of the green lanes of our native land.</p> + +<p>Nine hours' journey brought us to the valley of<a name="page37" id="page37"></a><span class="pageno">[37]</span> +Amjam, where there was a khafilah of senna encamped +among the trees. Water—rather bitter, +however—may be found here in shallow excavations; +and the whole place, with its patches of herbage, is +highly refreshing to the eye.</p> + +<p>There are two new trees in this wady, both +interesting; the <i>Ghurdok</i> and the <i>Ajdaree</i>. The +<i>ghurdok</i>, on which the camels browse, is a large +bush with great thorns, and bears a red berry +about the size of our hip, or, as the marabout says, +of sheep's dung. People eat these berries and find +them good, with a saltish, bitter taste, and yet a +dash of sweetness. The <i>ajdaree</i> is also a thorny +bush, and at a distance something reminds one of +the English hedge-thorn. On a nearer approach +the leaves are found to be oval and filbert-shaped. +The berry, called <i>thomakh</i>, is nearly as large as +haws, but flatted at the sides: it is used medicinally, +being a powerful astringent in diarrhoea.</p> + +<p>When the moon was two days old our people +practised a little of the ancient Sabæanism of the +Arabs—saluting it by kissing their hands, and offering +a short prayer.</p> + +<p>On the 15th we at length sighted the edge of +the plateau of the Hamadah; and pushing on still +through desert hills and valleys, arrived at Wady +Tabooneeah, having been <i>en route</i> four days from +Mizdah. This valley is not so fertile as Amjam; +and the water is more bitter. Common salt, the +companion of gypsum, was observed to-day; and<a name="page38" id="page38"></a><span class="pageno">[38]</span> +wherever this is found there are bitter salts. Swallows +were skimming over the shrubs, and birds of +prey hovered about, now lying-to, as it were, overhead, +with beak and talons visible, now circling +upwards until they became mere specks. Lizards +and beetles abounded as usual; but the only plagues +of the place were the flies, which had followed the +camels from Gharian, and even from Tripoli. Men +usually carry their "black cares" along with them +in this way.</p> + +<p>As we could not expect to commence the traject +of the dreaded plateau immediately, I resolved to +go upon a visit to the village of Western Ghareeah. +The camel-drivers of the caravan, of course, told +us that it was at the distance of one hour—<i>Saha +bas!</i> but we found it to be three hours in a north-east +direction. Time is of little consequence in the +desert, and no means are possessed or desired of +measuring it with exactitude. It has already been +observed by a traveller, that the Bedawin will describe +as <i>near</i> an object a hundred yards off, or a +well two days' journey from you. Western Ghareeah +was likewise described as <i>grayeb</i>, but we thought +for some time that we had ventured upon an interminable +desert. However, the ground at length +dipped, and a green wady disclosed itself. We +could scarcely, at first, find anybody to receive us. +But after waiting some time, the people came unwillingly +crawling out one after the other. We +told them our errand—"To look at the country and<a name="page39" id="page39"></a><span class="pageno">[39]</span> +buy barley." They swore they had none—not a +grain; but when we swore in our turn that we +would pay them for what we wanted, they admitted +having a little that belonged to some people in +Fezzan. I was amused with the eloquent indignation +of our burly chaouch when they professed complete +destitution at first. "You dogs! do you live +on stones?" cried he. This was a settler; and +showed them that they had knowing ones to deal +with. Of course their original shyness arose from +fear lest we might rob them. When a bargain was +struck they became quite friendly, and brought us +out some oil, barley-cakes, and boiled eggs—all the +luxuries of the oasis!</p> + +<p>Ghareeah Gharbeeah stands on the brow of a +limestone rock, on the western side of a valley, which +we had to cross in approaching between date plantations +and a few fields of barley. It was an ancient +Roman city; and there remains still an almost +perfect bas-relief of a Victoria on one side of the +eastern gateway, which is composed of limestone +blocks a foot and a half square. We could trace +also the imperfect letters of a Latin inscription, +together with some Berber characters. The houses +of the present inhabitants are formed of rough blocks +of limestone mixed with mud, and roofed with palm-trunks +and palm-trees. The water resembles that +of the well of Tabooneeah, coming "from the same +rock," as the people say: it is slightly bitter and +saltish.<a name="page40" id="page40"></a><span class="pageno">[40]</span></p> + +<p>With the exception of the little valley we had +crossed, nothing could be seen from Ghareeah but +a dreary waste, especially to the south and east. A +tower of modern date rises to the east, on a solitary +rock; and we knew that Eastern Ghareeah was concealed +among the hills at a distance of six hours. +The inhabitants of these secluded towns are called +Waringab, and promise shortly to become extinct. +In this Western Ghareeah there are twenty heads of +families, but very few children,—scarce sixty souls +altogether; and the population of the other place, +which gives itself airs of metropolitan importance, +is not more than double. How they have not +abandoned the place long ago to jackals and hawks +is a mystery. They do not possess a single camel; +only two or three asses and some flocks of sheep; +and depend, in a great measure, on chance profits +from caravans, for their valley often only affords +provision for a couple of months or so. At intervals, +it is true, when there has been much rain, they sell +barley in the neighbouring valleys; but this season +has been a dry one, and the crop has consequently +fallen short. When they have no barley, they say, +they eat dates; and when the dates are out, they +fast—a long, continual fast—and famine takes them +off one by one. The melancholy remnant preserve +traditions of prosperity in comparatively recent +times. Notwithstanding their miserable condition, +however, these wretched people are drained by +taxation of thirty mahboubs per annum—so many<a name="page41" id="page41"></a><span class="pageno">[41]</span> +drops of blood! The eastern village pays in proportion. +Possibly in a few years this cluster of +wadys may be abandoned to chance Arab visitors, +so that the starting-point for the traverse of the +Hamadah will be removed farther back, perhaps to +Mizdah. There is no life in the civilisation which +claims lordship over these countries unfriended by +nature. The only object of those who wield paramount +authority over them seems to be to extract +money in the most vexatious and expeditious manner.</p> + +<p>I purchased of the people of Ghareeah a greyhound +bitch for four Tunisian piastres, so that we +may now expect some hares and gazelles. In returning +to the encampment I observed the phenomenon +of a column of dust carried into the heavens in a +spiral form by the wind, whilst all around was perfectly +calm. Such columns are not of so frequent +occurrence in the desert as is imagined, but from +time to time, as in this instance, are seen.</p> + +<p>The evening was spent in making arrangements +with Dr. Barth and Dr. Overweg, who had agreed +to traverse the Hamadah by day, whilst I was to +follow by night, with the blacks. Next morning, +accordingly, the caravan separated into two portions, +and my companions rode slowly away over the +burning desert.</p> + +<p>This important day could not be allowed to pass +by my people without a tremendous quarrel. Our +blacks seemed to be in a peculiarly excitable state. +Ali, especially, who has distinguished himself for<a name="page42" id="page42"></a><span class="pageno">[42]</span> +several days in the obstreperous line, has had a +regular turn-to with his father-in-law; and not +satisfied with this, nearly strangled Moknee's son. +The Mandara black threw himself on the ground +and called out,—"Load my pistol, O Chaouch; I +must shoot this reprobate Ali!"</p> + +<p>This fellow is a pest in the caravan, and I have +been obliged to send him off and insist on his return +to Tripoli. He may be brought to his senses +in this way.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote2" id="footnote2"></a><a href="#anchor2">[2]</a> The Orientals are prevented by superstitious fear from allowing +any article destroyed by accident to be replaced in the way mentioned.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + + + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page43" id="page43"></a><span class="pageno">[43]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4" id="chapter4"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Commence crossing the Hamadah—Last Pillar of the Romans—Travelling +in the Desert—Rapid March—Merry Blacks—Dawn—Temperature—Ali +returns—Day-travelling—Night-feelings—Animals—Graves +of Children—Mirage—Extent of the Plateau—It +breaks up—Valley of El-Hasee—Farewell to the Hamadah—Arduous +Journey—The Camel-drivers—New Country—Moral +and religious Disquisitions—The Chaouches—Reach +Edree—Abd-el-Galeel—Description of Edree—Subterranean Dwellings—Playing +at Powder—The Kaïd—Arabic Literature—Desertion +of the Zintanah—Leave Edree—Sandy Desert—Bou Keta the +Camel-driver—Wady El-Makmak—The Lizard—Reach Wady +Takadafah—Sand—Another <i>Embroglio</i>.</p> +</div> + +<p>The sun was setting as our caravan, which we had +collected in as compact a body as possible, got under +way, and rising out of the valley of Tabooneeah, +began to enter upon the plateau. It is difficult to +convey an idea of the solemn impressions with which +one enters upon such a journey. Everything ahead +is unknown and invested with perhaps exaggerated +terrors by imagination and report. The name of +Desert—the waterless Desert—hangs over the horizon, +and suggests the most gloomy apprehensions. +Behind, in the fading light, the trees of the valley +still show their dim groups; before, the lofty level, +slightly broken by undulations, stretches away. +There was one cheering thought, however. My<a name="page44" id="page44"></a><span class="pageno">[44]</span> +companions had by this time set up their tent for +the night; and although, creeping along at the +camel's slow pace, we could not expect to come up +to that temporary home until it was about to be +deserted, still the knowledge of its existence took +away much of the mysterious terror with which I +entered upon this desolate region in the hour of +coming shadows. An additional solemnity was imparted +to the commencement of this arduous journey +by the fact that we now passed the last pillar erected +by the Romans. Their mighty power seems to have +recoiled, as well it might, before the horrid aspect of +the Hamadah.</p> + +<p>We pushed on at a steady pace over the rough +ground; and as I surveyed the scene from my +elevated position on the camel's back, I could not +help contrasting this primitive style of travelling +with that with which I had been conversant a few +months before. Instead of whirling along the +summit of an embankment, or through a horizontal +well miles deep, in a machine that always reminded +me of a disjointed dragon, at the rate of some fifty +miles an hour, here I was leisurely swaying to and +fro on the back of the slowest beast that man has +ever tamed, in the midst of a crowd loosely scattered +over the country, some on foot, some in the saddle—not +seeking to keep any determinate track, but +following a general direction by the light of the +stars, which shine with warm beneficence overhead. +There is no sound to attract the ear, save the<a name="page45" id="page45"></a><span class="pageno">[45]</span> +measured tread of the caravan, the occasional "<i>Isa! +Isa!</i>" of the drivers, the hasty wrench with which our +camels snatch a mouthful of some ligneous plant +that clings to the stony soil, the creaking of the +baggage, or the whistling of the wind that comes +moaning over the desert. These are truly moments +in a man's life to remember; and I shall ever look +back to that solemn night-march over the desert, +which my pen fails to describe, with sentiments of +pleasurable awe.</p> + +<p>This night we moved at comparatively a rapid +pace—nearly three miles an hour; for there was +scarcely any temptation to the camels to linger for +browsing purposes, and the drivers seemed desperately +anxious to get over as much ground as +possible at once. At first all went well enough; +and now and then even, the blacks, who were on +foot, braved the Hamadah with a lively ditty—celebrating +some Lucy Long of Central Africa. But by +degrees these merry sounds ceased to be heard; and +the hastily-moving crowd of the caravan insensibly +stretched out into a longer line. The poor women +were beginning to knock up, and several fell at times +from mere exhaustion. We proceeded, however, +without stopping, for eleven hours, and after a long, +dreary night indeed, halted at five in the morning, +having reached the encampment of our German +friends.</p> + +<p>The dawn soon lighted up the waste, and +enabled us to see that it was a level plain of hard<a name="page46" id="page46"></a><span class="pageno">[46]</span> +red earth, scattered over with pebbles and loose +pieces of limestone mixed with flint.</p> + +<p>The Hamadah was very cold in the night, the +wind being from the north. Dr. Overweg does not +think that the plateau is more than fifteen hundred +feet above the level of the sea; but it may be two +thousand, and a little more in some places. By day +it is hot enough; and as there is little to be observed +on these vast, elevated stretches of stony desert, I +thought it best to continue my original plan for +three whole nights.</p> + +<p>To spare one's self is the great secret of Saharan +travelling; and there is, after all, not much to observe +in this desolate region.</p> + +<p>I should mention, that the second night Ali came +up in a penitent state along with a khafilah from +Ghareeah, and so our poor black women had an +opportunity of getting a lift on the spare camels. +We could, therefore, go on until morning without +fear of losing any of our party in the night. The +position of a person who falls behind a caravan in +the desert very much resembles that of a man overboard. +This khafilah preceded us to Shaty.</p> + +<p>After the third night I found the weather so +cool and temperate, that I continued on the whole +of the day; and the Germans joining me in the +evening, we did not again separate. It was +towards the close of the third night that we were +assailed by an awful tempest of wind, rain, and +lightning, which flashed upon us occasionally<a name="page47" id="page47"></a><span class="pageno">[47]</span> +through the thick darkness. The Germans, who +were encamped, had their tents carried away, whilst +we who were in motion found ourselves compelled +to stop and crouch under the bellies of our camels +until the morning broke, and the hurricane had +spent its force. The cold was intense, and our people +complained bitterly. More than once, indeed, the +thermometer was down to freezing-point whilst we +were traversing the plateau; and one morning the +desert was covered with a shining frost.</p> + +<p>Although we became accustomed to the desolate +appearance of this district by degrees, we counted +eagerly the days and hours that brought us nearer +the confines of Fezzan. Every night's incidents +were the same. On we went, nodding drowsily +on our camels, sometimes dropping off into a sound +sleep, variegated by a snatch of pleasant dreams. +But these indulgences are dangerous. I was more +than once on the point of falling off. By day, few +objects of interest presented themselves: linnets +and finches fluttered here and there upon the rare +bushes, whilst swallows joined the caravan, and +skimmed round and round for hours among the +camels, almost brushing the faces of the drivers. +Lizards glanced and snakes writhed across the path. +We started three wadan or mouflon, churlish +animals, fond of such solitudes. As to the birds, +our people say they do not drink in winter, and in +summer leave the Hamadah altogether. Four-fifths +of the surface were utterly barren. Little<a name="page48" id="page48"></a><span class="pageno">[48]</span> +mounds marked the graves of children, slaves +who had perished on the way from inner Africa. +The mirage was common, but rarely pretty. Sometimes +ridges of low mountains seemed raised on the +level plain, probably reflected from the cliffs that +edge the plateau. The scattered herbage also +assumed regular forms—squares, ovals, circles. +Now and then it seemed as if vast ruins were ahead, +but as we drew nigh these dwindled into little +desert-mosques, formed of half-circles of stones, now +turned to the east, now to the west. Here the +faithful who may be obliged to traverse these dreary +regions stop to offer up their simple prayer to the +Almighty Allah, to whom, they say, the dreadful +Hamadah belongs.</p> + +<p>The extent of this plateau from north to south, +varying in our route from S.E. to S.W., is about +156 miles, or six long and seven short days' journey. +Sometimes our camels went at the pace of three +miles, but nearly always of two and a-half miles in +the hour. It is almost impossible to make the traverse +in less than fifty-six or sixty hours. The camels +may continue on night and day, but it will always +require so much time to make the weary journey, +which is considered the greatest exploit of Saharan +travelling in this portion of Northern Africa.</p> + +<p>On the road to Tuat from Algeria, or to Ghadamez +from Tunis and Tripoli, or to Fezzan from Bonjem +or Benioleed, there is no traverse of six days +comparable in difficulty to that which we have just<a name="page49" id="page49"></a><span class="pageno">[49]</span> +accomplished. There is said to be none other like it +on the road to Soudan, except a tremendous desert +between Ghât and Aheer. However, we must not +trouble ourselves about this as yet.</p> + +<p>As for the Hamadah, we know that near Sokna +the plateau breaks up and forms what are called the +Jebel-es-Soudy, or Black Mountains, a most picturesque +group of cliffs; and again on the route to +Egypt from Mourzuk, six days' journey south-east +from Sokna, it also breaks into huge cliffs, and bears +the name of El-Harouj. These mountain buttresses +are either the bounds of the Hamadah, or masses of +rock where it breaks into hills, forming ravines or +valleys. But, in fact, how far the Hamadah extends +between Ghadamez on the west and Augila on the +east is not yet properly ascertained. It seems to be +like a broad belt intercepting the progress of commerce, +civilisation, and conquest, from the shores of +the Mediterranean to Central Africa. The kingdom +of Fezzan, however, advances like a promontory +beyond it; and then on every side stretches the +desert ocean with its innumerable oases or islands, +which, from being once mere fluctuating names, as +it were, on a guess map, are now by degrees dropping +one by one into their right places.</p> + +<p>On the breaking-up of the plateau we observed +its geological structure to consist of three principal +strata: first, a covering or upper crust, limestone +with flints and red earth; then masses of marl; and +then sandstone, lumps and masses of which were<a name="page50" id="page50"></a><span class="pageno">[50]</span> +blackened by the contact of the air with the iron +they contain. Under the sandstone was likewise a +bed of yellow clay, with a mixture of gypsum.</p> + +<p>The face of the cliffs of the plateau was blackened +as with the smoke of a huge furnace, which +gave a majestic and yet gloomy appearance to the +scene as we descended the pass towards the valley +of El-Hasee. We found the plain strewed with great +masses of dark sandstone, seeming to have been detached +by some convulsion from the rocky walls, +which now rose in apparently interminable grandeur +behind us. We glanced back in awe, and yet in some +triumph, towards the iron-bound desert we had thus +safely traversed; but our eyes soon turned from so +bleak a prospect, when we beheld, dotting the sandy +wady, clumps of the wild palm, green copses, and the +majestic ethel-tree.</p> + +<p>It was about two in the afternoon when we +reached the camping-ground, all our people shouting, +"<i>Be-Selameh el Hamadah!</i>" Farewell to the +Hamadah! I cried out the same words in a joyful +voice; for, although now that the dangers of the +plateau were overcome they seemed diminished in +my eyes, yet I felt that we had escaped from a most +trying march with wonderful good fortune. It is +difficult to convey an idea of the horror and desolation +of so vast a tract of waterless and uninhabited +country. They alone who have breathed the sharp +air of its blank nakedness can appreciate it, or understand +how any accidental delay, sickness, the<a name="page51" id="page51"></a><span class="pageno">[51]</span> +bursting of the water-skins, the straying of the +camels, might produce incalculable sufferings, and +even death. "<i>Be-Selameh el Hamadah!</i>" then, with +all my heart. "<i>Be-Selameh! be-Selameh!</i>" again +rings through the caravan, as we reach at length +our camping-ground, and throw ourselves at full-length +under the pleasing shade. Even the camel-drivers +were so fatigued, that they stretched out as +soon as the command to halt was given, and let +their animals stray at will, without taking the +trouble to unload them. I had observed the same +supineness during our halts all through this trying +district, which seems to oppress their imaginations as +well as prostrate their bodies. Several times I had +been obliged myself to collect wood and make a fire +to rally our lagging servants. Indeed, on more +than one occasion I was compelled to exert my +personal authority. On the third night, particularly, +I wished all the people to rest one hour. The camel-drivers +resisted this reasonable request, and were +backed by Yusuf. When it became a question between +myself and my interpreter, I jumped off my +camel and stopped the caravan. The chaouch +supported me, and in this case at least behaved very +well. If we had continued all night, we should have +made a march of sixteen hours,—too much for the +blacks, and indeed for any man on his feet.</p> + +<p>On the whole, however, I have to observe, that as +we approach Fezzan our camel-drivers are getting +more civil and obliging. Is this the genial effect of<a name="page52" id="page52"></a><span class="pageno">[52]</span> +native air, or expectation of a present? They have +not mentioned the latter subject yet, but, on the +contrary, promise me some dates.</p> + +<p>The broad valley of El-Hasee is sandy, like all +those of Fezzan. It is bounded on the north by the +perpendicular buttresses of the Hamadah, and on the +south by sandy swells. The well is not copious, but +affords a regular supply of slightly brackish water. +The people descend to the bottom, thirty or forty feet, +and fill their gerbahs. The blacks are very troublesome, +and require a good deal of patience. This +morning they would not fetch water from this well, +although quite close by the tent. I was obliged to +threaten to leave them before I could get them to +move. They are, probably, a little broken down by +the fatigue of the Hamadah.</p> + +<p>We passed through Wady El-Hasee on the 24th, +and after mid-day began to ascend, and continued +to do so until we pitched tent at half-past four, at +a place called Esfar. This is also a species of plateau, +but consists of sand-hills, sandstone rocks, +and shallow valleys filled with herbage and shrubs. +I was glad to get rid of the eternal limestone and +have a change of the sandstone.</p> + +<p>On the 25th we started early, and had a cool +temperature all day. Our chaouch went out, and +by the assistance of the greyhound bitch brought in +a young gazelle. For about three hours the camels +had herbage; but afterwards came a desert more +horrible even than the Hamadah. It consists of<a name="page53" id="page53"></a><span class="pageno">[53]</span> +sandstone rocks, and valleys covered with pebbles +and loose blocks. Some of the rocks are perfectly +black, and would be considered by an European +geologist, on a distant view, as basalt. Until half-past +four in the afternoon we did not see a blade of +grass, a sprig of vegetation, or living thing of any +description; but at the camping-ground was a thin +scattering of herbage, near the foot of the black +mountain called Solaou Mârrafa.</p> + +<p>We have sometimes moral disquisitions among +our people. This day we had a dispute on religion. +The Zintanah, a real orthodox Musulman, maintained +a strict distinction between the believers and +unbelievers, giving heaven to the former and hell to +the latter. Yusuf and several more tolerant gentlemen +held out hope of mercy to us all, as God was +"the Compassionate and the Merciful." The chaouch +also lectured the people on courage, and publicly +maintained that the Fezzanees were all cowards. +This fellow is a second Sir John Falstaff, without +the corpulence. The tone of all members of the +caravan, as I have mentioned, is now much humanised. +Every one is more civil to us, and, by +habit, to one another. However, the chaouches must, +of course, get up a quarrel now and then: they do +it between themselves; but, as a sign that they likewise +are a little civilised, have only had two regular +explosions to-day. Probably these worthies, who +remind me of a bull-dog and a terrier, find particular +pleasure in this form of social intercourse; for<a name="page54" id="page54"></a><span class="pageno">[54]</span> +I always observe, that they are on more friendly terms +than ever after they have almost come to beard-pulling.</p> + +<p>I interfere as little as possible in all these quarrels, +but now and then it is difficult to hold aloof. +This morning, for example, the black who has two +wives, took it into his head to beat one of them in +public. I called upon him to desist, upon which he +went to work harder than ever; so that I was compelled +to break a stick over his shoulders to reduce +him to quietness. These little caravan incidents +were often the only ones that diversified our day.</p> + +<p>On the 26th, after a march of ten hours, with +cool weather at first, but suffocating heat afterwards, +we reached Edree, a town of El-Shaty, in a state of +great exhaustion. During the latter part of the +march, however, we had been cheered by the sight +of the town, which stands on a small mound of +yellow clay and rock. The whitewashed marabout +of Bou Darbalah gleamed a little distance in front +of the place, which in itself is now a heap of ruins, +having been destroyed by Abd-el-Galeel, on account +of the resistance of the inhabitants to his usurped +authority. He also, with a cruelty rarely practised +in Saharan warfare, cut down above a thousand +palms; thus rendering it impossible for the place +to recover rapidly from its disasters. Previously +there had been a hundred and twenty heads of +families; now there are only twenty-five, and these +are still diminishing it is said. However, many<a name="page55" id="page55"></a><span class="pageno">[55]</span> +little children are now in the streets, naked, and +covered with filth.</p> + +<p>These few inhabitants are a mixed race, some +being as fair as those on the coast, whilst others are +as black as the darkest negroes of Central Africa. +The Sheikh and two or three patriarchs of the village +were polite and hospitable, and showed every disposition +to comply with the orders sent by the Pasha +of Mourzuk to supply us with fresh provisions without +payment. I accepted a sheep and two fowls; +but the dates for our blacks I paid for, and added a +few presents.</p> + +<p>The valley of Edree is very shallow, and this +portion of it is mostly covered with bushes of wild +palm and with coarse herbage; it looks green and +grateful amidst the surrounding aridity. There are +still remaining many fruit-bearing date-trees—about +seven thousand, scattered at great distances. The +water is good, although the surface of the valley is +in parts covered with a whitish crust of salt. Some +large springs are continually overflowing with bubbles +of gas, like the great well of Ghadamez.</p> + +<p>In the garden-fields of Edree are cultivated +wheat and barley, the former white and of the finest +quality. A good deal of grain has already been got +in this year. With industry, and a few more animals +to draw the water for irrigation, a great quantity of +wheat might be grown in this oasis. The gardens +contain also a few figs and grapes. Doves were +fluttering in the branches of the palms, and swallows<a name="page56" id="page56"></a><span class="pageno">[56]</span> +darting through their waving foliage. There were +thousands of native flies here, besides those that had +come with us. When we complained, we were +answered, "This is a country of dates!"</p> + +<p>Shaty has eighteen districts, some very limited, +but having date-palms, and paying contributions to +Mourzuk. Edree, itself, is drained of four hundred +mahboubs per annum.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—I rose at sunrise and went to see the +ancient dwellings of Edree, where the people lived +underground: they are excavations out of the rock, +some fifty yards from the surface beneath the +modern town. The entrances are choked with sand, +and they are not entered by the people, who say +"They are the abodes of serpents." At present, +there is nothing remarkable about them. Probably +they were originally natural caves, which were enlarged +and arranged as dwellings.</p> + +<p>On returning to the encampment, I found that +the Kaïd, or commander of the troops of the Shaty +district, had arrived with some Arab cavaliers: he +has in all thirty horsemen. Our visitors offered to +"play powder" in order to do us honour; but were +compelled to beg us to supply the ammunition. It +was a very animating scene, after the dreary journey +over the Fezzanee deserts. A dozen mounted cavaliers +dashed to and fro, shaking the earth, scouting +and firing from time to time. Everybody enjoyed +it; even the half-naked, dirty, brown-black ladies +of the town, stopped with their water-jugs, and<a name="page57" id="page57"></a><span class="pageno">[57]</span> +looked on with satisfaction. The Kaïd was the best +man of his men; but Yusuf afterwards dressed and +beat the victor, riding with great dexterity, and attracting +the spontaneous applause of all the spectators. +The Kaïd trembled whilst contending with +Yusuf, who was set down as a marabout in consequence +by our chaouch.</p> + +<p>I gave the Kaïd, who was a mild and respectful +man, a handkerchief, a little bit of writing-paper, +and some soap, and sent him off to his station, +whence he had come on purpose to visit us. Three +handkerchiefs formed also an appropriate present to +the Sheikhs of Edree.</p> + +<p>Yusuf has been reading an Arabic book, which I +at first thought was some commentary on the Koran; +but to-day I was undeceived. He related what he +read; it reminded me of Gulliver's Travels. A tall +man walks through the sea, cooks fish in the sun, and +destroys a whole town, whose inhabitants had insulted +him, by the same means that our comparative giant +saved the palace of Lilliput from conflagration.</p> + +<p>This evening it was announced as an event that +the Zintanah, a servant of the Germans, was going +to Tripoli, having resolved to return home. Some +said one thing about him, some another; but most, +"He's afraid of the fever of Mourzuk." The fellow +came afterwards to me, asking for letters to Tripoli. +I told him to go about his business; that he was a +man of words and had no heart, otherwise he would<a name="page58" id="page58"></a><span class="pageno">[58]</span> +continue with us to Mourzuk. I wished to discourage +such acts of desertion, for they produce +always a bad effect. My German companions +seemed glad to get rid of him.</p> + +<p>We started again on Sunday morning (the 28th). +This was our first day of sand. We had almost forgotten +that there was such a thing as sand in the +desert; but we shall have two days more of the +same kind of travelling, to keep us in mind of this +unpleasant truth. However, we were glad enough +to leave Edree. Our marabout, comparing this +place with El-Wady, for which we are now journeying, +says, "Edree is like a jackass; El-Wady is +like a camel!" Yusuf calls Edree "the city of +camel-bugs." These vermin are the leeches of the +camels. During the morning we passed two or +three forests of palms, and afterwards traversed a +flat valley, where was a little herbage. The people +said; "There is no tareek (track): the tareek is in +our heads." Bou Keta noted the route in many +parts by the presence of camels' dung; but the +shape of the sand-hills in these parts seems to be +perfectly familiar to these men. We saw one or +two lizards, but no birds or other signs of life, except +two brown-black Fezzanees, trudging over the +desert.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon, after a day of hot wind, +we encamped in Wady Guber, where there is water +two or three feet below the surface; and a small<a name="page59" id="page59"></a><span class="pageno">[59]</span> +forest of palms belonging to our camel-drivers, +having descended to them in small groups from +their grandfathers.</p> + +<p>Next day (29th) we again went on over the sand, +which extends beyond Ghadamez and Souf, to the +west, and even to Egypt on the east. It is met at +different points by the khafilahs, and crossed in different +numbers of days. We found it very hard +work to cross it, and understood why, in these parts, +the words <i>raml</i>, sand, and <i>war</i>, difficult, have become +convertible terms. Bou Keta had considerable +trouble in keeping to the route, being reduced +to depend chiefly on the camels' dung, which rolls +about the surface of the sand. Here and there was +a patch of coarse herbage, scattered like black spots +on the bright, white surface. Every object was very +much magnified at a little distance; I saw what +seemed to me to be a horse on the top of one of the +hills, but on drawing near it proved to be our own +greyhound bitch smelling the hot air.</p> + +<p>Bou Keta gave some account of himself to-day. +It seems that "Fezzanee" is not a very respectable +epithet in those countries.</p> + +<p>"I am not a Fezzanee," said Bou Keta, abruptly.</p> + +<p>"Then what are you?"</p> + +<p>"My mother was a Tuarick woman, and my +father one of the Walad Suleiman."</p> + +<p>"Then the Walad Suleiman are gentlemen, +whilst the Fezzanees are Turks and dogs?"</p> + +<p>"That's the truth," quoth he.<a name="page60" id="page60"></a><span class="pageno">[60]</span></p> + +<p>To-day I found the veil of my sister-in-law of +essential service. Doubled, it shielded my eyes +perfectly from the hot wind and sand. It serves +also as an excellent protection for the eyes against +the flies whilst I am writing. This is the second +day of the hot wind. In the evening we heard +crickets singing in the scorching sand. At mid-day +the thermometer, when buried, rose to 122° Fahr. +We encamped in Wady El-Makmak, where we +had good water, far superior to that at Guber. As +in nearly all sandy places, a hole is scooped in the +sand and then covered over, or left to be filled by +the action of the wind after the khafilah is supplied. +Two pretty palms point, as with two fingers, +to the buried wells of El-Makmak.</p> + +<p>Some of our people noticed the lizard to-day. +This seems to be the omnipresent animal of the +Sahara, inhabiting its most desolate regions when +no other living creature is seen. It changes in +species with the nature of the country. To-day, +those seen are large; very soon they will become +small, meagre, and will change colour. In the +valleys I have observed them nearly the same +colour as the sandy soil. Perhaps the beetle is +nearly as common as the lizard in the desert, being +found in its most arid and naked wastes. It is +generally a big, round, black-bottle beetle, which +produces a trail in the sand that may be mistaken +for that of the serpent.</p> + +<p>Still the following day we had to cross the same<a name="page61" id="page61"></a><span class="pageno">[61]</span> +kind of desert, under the enervating influence of +the gheblee, or hot wind; the thermometer in the +sand reached 130°. Although the camels were eight +hours on foot, little progress was made. I stopped +an hour to rest in Wady El-Jumar, where were two +or three palm-groves. One of the Fezzanees ferreted +out a lot of dates, hidden in the sand, and taking +some distributed them amongst us.</p> + +<p>Thus refreshed we pushed on to encamp in Wady +El-Takadafah, where there is a well of water, good +to drink, but disagreeable in smell, like that of +Bonjem. The odour resembles that of a sewer, and +is produced by hydrogen of sulphur. We have had +good water every day in this sandy tract, and I have +no doubt that some may be found in every wady, +a little below the surface. Birds begin now to reappear: +a few swallows, a dove, and some small +twitterers, were seen to give life to the otherwise +melancholy wadys.</p> + +<p>Dr. Overweg examined the sand, which rolled +in great heaps on every side, and found it to consist +of grains of four kinds,—white, yellow, red, and +black; the latter colour caused by the presence of +iron. These variegated sands form the basis of sandstone, +and may be a decomposition of sandstone. +The sand near Tripoli is of a finer sort, consisting +mostly of a decomposition of limestone. There is +a blue-black earth in the wadys, arising from the +wood, a species of crumbling coal.</p> + +<p>This evening we had a famous <i>embroglio</i> between<a name="page62" id="page62"></a><span class="pageno">[62]</span> +our chaouch and the marabout. The latter +had caught a waran, or large species of lizard, and +skinned it to dispose of the skin. The chaouch impudently +swore he had been eating the flesh of the +reptile—a direful accusation. A tremendous war of +words ensued; and not of words only, for presently +the holy man came in for a gratification of ropes' +end. All the Fezzanees rushed forward to save the +honour of the marabout; and the chaouch retreated +to my tent in search of arms. A stupid joke was +on the point of leading to murder. I interfered, +and succeeded in appeasing the storm in some degree. +I then rated the chaouch soundly for beating +a man invested with a sacred character in the eyes +of all Musulmans. This produced a good effect, +and the culprit, hanging his head, seemed ashamed +of the part he had played. Subsequently he kissed +the hand of the holy man, and they were reconciled.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page63" id="page63"></a><span class="pageno">[63]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter5" id="chapter5"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>More sandy Desert—Fatiguing March—Water and +Herbage—Water-drinking—Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk—Hot +Wind—Arrival in El-Wady—Tuaricks—Laghareefah—Fezzanees—The +Chaouches astray—The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady—Description +of the Oasis—Tempest—Native Huts—Official Visits—Desert +News—Camel-drivers—Ruins of Azerna—Move on—The +Kaïd—Modest Requests—Ladies of the Wady—Leave the +Oasis—Vast Plain—Instinct of the Camel—Reach +Agar—Reception—Precede the Caravan—Reach Mourzuk—Mr. Gagliuffi—Honours +paid to the Mission—Acting Pasha—Climate—Route +from Tripoli—Its Division into Zones—Rain in the +Desert.</p> +</div> + +<p>On the 1st of May we had an arduous piece of +work to perform. The khafilah was in motion fourteen +entire hours, over heavy sand, with the hot +wind breathing fiercely upon it. No amateur walking +was indulged in. Every one kept sullenly to +his camel; and those who were obliged to advance +on foot dragged slowly along, seeming every moment +as if they were about to abandon all exertion +in despair, and lie down to perish. Our course lay +mostly south, as usual; but varied occasionally from +south-east to south-west. The scene was one of the +most singular that could be imagined. Camels and +men were scattered along the track, treading slowly +but continually forward, and yet not seeming to advance<a name="page64" id="page64"></a><span class="pageno">[64]</span> +at all. Instead of the cheering cry of "<i>Isa! +Isa!</i>" which urges on the burdened beasts over rocky +deserts, the dull, prolonged sound of "<i>Thurr! Thurr!</i>" +was substituted. Beyond this there was no noise. +The men had no strength to talk or to sing, and +the tread of many feet awaken no echo in the sandy +waste. Waves of red and yellow, or of dazzling +whiteness, swelled round in a circle of ever-varying +diameter as we rose and fell. Here and there +stretched great stains of black herbage. Every +object is magnified and changed to the eye. The +heat and the swinging motion of the camel produce +a slight dizziness, and the outer world assumes a +hazy indistinctness of outline—something like dream-landscapes. +There is a desert-intoxication which +must be felt to be appreciated.</p> + +<p>We must not, however, libel even the Sandy Desert, +by producing the impression that it is all barren +and comfortless. Though far more difficult to +travel over than the Hamadah, it possesses the inestimable +advantage of having water every day once +at least. A little after noon, indeed, we passed two +lakes; one small, and the other of considerable dimensions, +containing sweet water, and bordered by +a fringe of palm-trees. At times there is very good +herbage for the camels. The most frequent shrub +on which they browse is the <i>resou</i>, which has small +ears of grain, eaten also by men as food. Traces +of animal life, as I have observed, are few; but we +saw this day two broken ostrich-eggs. How they<a name="page65" id="page65"></a><span class="pageno">[65]</span> +came there it is difficult to say: no traces or footmarks +have been remarked.</p> + +<p>At length I had begun to find drinking a necessity. +During these days of sand I imbibed more +than during the whole of the rest of the journey. +The eating of dates added to my thirst; and the +blacks complained of the same thing. Dates are +much better in the winter, and keep the cold out of +the stomach; but I should recommend all Saharan +travellers to eat as few of them as possible, at any +season of the year.</p> + +<p>During this last day, beyond the expanse of +sandy waves through which we swam, as it were, +had risen ahead some very conspicuous mountains. +Even at five in the morning we could see detached +along the line of the horizon the highest and most +advanced portion of the edge of the plateau of +Mourzuk. In three hours the white line of cliffs +came in view, looking like a stretch of black-blue sea, +contrasting strangely with the sparkling white-sand +undulations that stretched to their feet. Some of us +thought that an inland sea—never before heard of—had +rolled its waters athwart our path, so perfect was +the illusion. The heavens, this day particularly, attracted +our attention. What a sky! how beautiful! +The ground was a soft, light azure; and on its +mildly resplendent surface were scattered loosely +about some downy, feathery clouds, of the purest +white—veils manufactured in celestial looms!</p> + +<p>We expected to reach our premeditated halting<a name="page66" id="page66"></a><span class="pageno">[66]</span> +ground about noon, or before, these cliffs seeming so +near. But as day wore on, new expanses of glittering +desert seemed to stretch out before us; and every +hillock gained disclosed only the existence of new +hillocks ahead. Meanwhile the hot wind still blew +with unremitting violence, scorching our faces, and +penetrating to the inmost recesses of our frames. +The poor blacks, who were on foot, gazed wistfully +ahead, and ever and anon called to those who were +nodding on the camels, as if stunned by the heat, to +tell them if they might hope for rest. I found my +eyesight dimming, and deafness coming on. The +thermometer was plunged into the sand, and the +mercury instantly mounted to above 130°.</p> + +<p>At length we sighted the wady, stretching like +a green belt between the sand and the mountains +beyond. We found that we had been traversing an +elevated swell of the desert, for we were full three +quarters of an hour descending to the level of the +valley.</p> + +<p>The first specimen of inhabitants we saw on arriving +was a group of naked children with their +mother, who covered herself up in her barracan on +our approach. The children were nearly all females, +and even those of not more than three or four years +of age seemed wonderfully developed. They had +formed a house out of a thick bush of wild palms +over the well.</p> + +<p>These people are what are called Tuaricks of +Fezzan. They are a dwarfish, slim race; and the<a name="page67" id="page67"></a><span class="pageno">[67]</span> +Fezzanees call them <i>their</i> Arabs. They cover up +their faces like their kindred of Ghât, but have for +the most part white <i>thelems</i> instead of black. A +few sport a red fotah, or turban. They speak Arabic +commonly, but some know also the language of +Ghât; which fact connects them certainly with that +country. Their proper name is Tanelkum, a genuine +Tuarick word, and decisive of their Targhee origin. +Their trade is chiefly camel-driving between Ghât +and Fezzan. They are a fairer and finer race than +the Fezzanees, and do not intermarry with them. +Their numbers are not great, perhaps scarcely more +than a thousand souls in all Fezzan; but they live +in a state of entire independence, and pay no contributions +to the Porte.</p> + +<p>We passed the first well and came up with the +true Fezzanees at the village of Laghareefah, where +we encamped. It is situated in Wady Gharbee, +more properly called El-Wady <i>par excellence</i>, on +account of its superior fertility and culture. There +is also Wady Sherky, and several others; as Etsaou, +Akar, Um-el-Hammâm, Takruteen, and Aujar. The +people of Laghareefah are all of a black-brown hue, +and some had the ordinary negro features. They +were a little rude at first, but made some compensation +in the evening by sending us a good supply +of meat and fresh bread to our tents.</p> + +<p>To our surprise, we saw nothing of our chaouches +here; and on making inquiries, we found that they +were not with the caravan. They were known to<a name="page68" id="page68"></a><span class="pageno">[68]</span> +have pushed on ahead, impatient to arrive. We suspected +they had taken the wrong route, and did +not remember to have seen the track of their horses' +hoofs on the sand as we advanced. At first we were +not sorry that they were suffering a little for their +bad conduct all the way from Tripoli, to which I have +only made passing allusions. But then we began to +be alarmed for their safety, and begged the Sheikh +to send a man after them with water. They did not +make their appearance until morning, when we +learned that with immense fatigue they had succeeded +in striking the valley lower down at another +village, where they had tarried the remainder of the +night. As might be expected, they were in no good +humour after their excursion in the sand; but our +people, who had enjoyed a brief respite of unwonted +tranquillity during their absence, instead of condoling +with them, received them with laughter and +jeers.</p> + +<p>The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady sent us breakfast, and +he and his people were far more polite than yesterday. +We learned that there was a caravan in the +wady about to start for Ghât, and I took the opportunity +to write to that place to produce a proper +impression of our views and intentions, as I learned +that a very erroneous one had gone abroad. The +Sheikh and his elders came to ask me to <i>lend</i> them +twelve mahboubs, to make up the amount of tribute +now being collected by the agents of the Pasha of +Mourzuk. Of course I did not consent, representing<a name="page69" id="page69"></a><span class="pageno">[69]</span> +that I was at the outset of a long journey, and +that the Pasha would certainly punish them if he +ever heard that such a request had been made. +As a solace for the disappointment, I gave the Sheikh +three handkerchiefs and a pocket-knife. The Tuaricks +came in for a little soap, an article seemingly +in universal request.</p> + +<p>El-Wady is a deep valley, lying like a moat +between the elevated sandy desert and the plateau +on which Mourzuk is situated. This plateau, at the +distance of every few miles, juts out huge buttresses +of perpendicular cliffs, which frown over the broken +thread of green vegetation in the valley. Thick +forests of palms stretch at various points along the +low plain, where are springs plentifully furnished by +filtration from the high ground on either hand. The +various kinds of oasian culture are pursued here with +success. Wheat and barley are produced in considerable +quantities; and camels, asses, and goats find +plentiful nourishment. The villages are numerous; +but some contain only few men, and none exceed +forty-five. Takarteebah, the largest place, pays four +hundred and ninety mahboubs per annum, cultivates +four thousand palms, yielding a hundred and fifty +kafasses of dates, thirty of wheat, and eight of barley; +it feeds eleven asses. I observed that all domestic +animals, the goats especially, attain a very +diminutive size in these oases, the nourishment for +them being but scanty.</p> + +<p>In this oasis the palm-groves are much more<a name="page70" id="page70"></a><span class="pageno">[70]</span> +dense than in any other I have seen. They almost +merit the name of forests, both from their size and +wild luxuriant appearance. The Fezzanees pay little +attention to their culture, and when a tree falls it is +frequently suffered to lie for months, even though +it block up the public road. In contrast to the +burning desert we had just traversed, these dense +woods casting their shadows on the white sand produced +a most pleasing effect. We eagerly wandered +into the cool arcades, and watched with +delight the doves and hippoes, and other birds, as +they fluttered to and fro amidst the drooping leaves.</p> + +<p>Laghareefah, like Edree, had been destroyed by +the brilliant, though ruthless usurper, Abd-el-Galeel, +on account of its resistance to his authority. +The old town is at a little distance from the new, +and was evidently a much better-built place, commanded +by an earthen kasr or fortress.</p> + +<p>On May 2d, we had a tempest of thunder and +lightning to the south on the hills, produced by the +intense heat of the morning, and its accumulation +during the previous few days. Rain seemed to be +falling at a distance of a few hours. In the evening +the mercury still stood about 100°. The heat now +was still very distressing. The wind came charged +with dust that rolled in columns, like smoke beaten +down by a tempest, across the surface of the valley. +All the vegetation seemed withered, as if in an oven; +and the wheat in the ear was brittle, as though +roasted. There is a good deal of wheat in this<a name="page71" id="page71"></a><span class="pageno">[71]</span> +oasis. I observed an old woman reaping, and went +to chat with her. Her sickle had a long handle, +and the blade itself was narrow, but slightly bent +and somewhat serrated. I tried it, and found that +it answered its purpose very well, however rude in +appearance.</p> + +<p>I entered one of the huts made of palm-branches, +and carelessly smeared with mud—an attempt at +plastering that can hardly be called successful. The +door was formed of rough planks of date-wood, +and the flooring of hard-trodden earth, covered with +mats. The principal article of furniture was, as +usual, the small hand corn-mill, for nearly every +person in the East is still his own miller. The huts, +though rude in outward appearance, were dark, +cool, and comfortable within. In the town itself, +many of them are built entirely of mud; that is to say, +of round mud balls, first moistened with water, and +then dried in the sun. I entered several, and found +that most were empty. Where we found people, +they were courteous and cheerful in manners, and +smiled at the curiosity with which I lifted up the +wicker covers of their pots and jars. In one I found +a little sour milk; in another, some bazeen; in another, +a few dates soaking in water. A small vessel +now and then occurred, full of oil; but this is the +greatest luxury they possess.</p> + +<p>None of the doors has either lock or key. The +Fezzanee observed, "Strangers may steal, but Fezzanees +never. All the dates remain securely on the<a name="page72" id="page72"></a><span class="pageno">[72]</span> +trees until gathered by the owners." It must be +observed, however, that the anomaly of vast possessions +being held by one man, who can scarcely +consume or utilise the produce, whilst others have +not a stone whereon to lay their heads, and depend +even for a burial-place upon charity, is not to be +observed in this barbarous country.</p> + +<p>The children of the Wady, up to the age of seven +or eight years, go about perfectly naked, which may +partly account for the bronze-black colour of their +skins. The Tuaricks are generally fairer than the +Fezzanees, though some of these latter are fair as +the Moors on the coast, whilst others are black as +very niggers.</p> + +<p>We received a visit from the Nather, or civil +governor of the Wady. He is a Fezzanee, Abbas +by name; and thankfully received the present of a +handkerchief. The Kaïd, or military commander, +is a Moor from Tripoli. Everybody seems interested +about us, and there is a perfect flux of visits. +All the authorities around seem to make our arrival +a holiday. We are quite the fashion. The chaouch +gets drunk in the evening on leghma, furnished by +the Nather, who wants to worm out all the news; and +there is little doubt that he has learned the whole +truth, and a good deal more. El-Maskouas, the +Turkish officer employed in collecting contributions +for Mourzuk, arrived at the camp and brought letters +from M. Gagliuffi. He also told us that the Sheikh +of Aghadez had not yet returned from his pilgrimage<a name="page73" id="page73"></a><span class="pageno">[73]</span> +to Mekka. The motions of all these desert +magnates are circulated from mouth to mouth as assiduously +as those of our Mayfair fashionables.</p> + +<p>Among our visitors was Haj Mohammed El-Saeedy, +the owner of our camels. His social position +answers to that of an English shipowner. He +is a marabout of great celebrity in this country, +and moves about in an atmosphere of respect. By +the way, when it became clearly impressed upon +my mind that the Fezzanee camel-drivers were merely +employed for hire, and had no property whatever in +the beasts they drove, my opinion of them began to +rise. It would have been impossible to take more +care of the camels than they did.</p> + +<p>We remained stationary in the Wady, from the 1st +of May to the evening of the 3d, when we moved +on to Toueewah. After dark was passed Azerna, in +the neighbourhood of which stood the ancient town, +celebrated for its ruins. The modern place, though +presenting a martial kind of appearance with its battlemented +mud walls, contained only ten inhabitants, +who live like so many rats in holes or under the +piles of ruins. On the 4th, when the people removed +our beds in the morning, a scorpion sallied +furiously forth. We had been sleeping with him +under our pillows. We moved on, still in the Wady, +for a couple of hours, until we came to the house of +the Kaïd, and once more encamped. His habitation +is large, commodious, and well protected from the +sun. He showed us his sleeping-apartment, which<a name="page74" id="page74"></a><span class="pageno">[74]</span> +is airy and well protected from the sun. A number +of little wicker baskets, the handiwork of his wife, +served as so many clothes-presses. The baskets of +Fezzan are perfectly water-tight.</p> + +<p>This Kaïd, called Ahmed Tylmoud, is quite a character, +and looks very droll with his single eye. He +has twenty soldiers only under his command throughout +the valley. The Turks do not waste their men, +making up by severity for want of numbers. Like +the commandant of Shaty, this Ahmed Tylmoud +insisted on "playing at powder" with his men +for our edification; but was also obliged to beg his +ammunition. It is singular, that although these +people are only armed with matchlocks, and are +supposed to be ready for service, either to defend +the country or levy contributions, they seem entirely +destitute of all necessary provisions for that +purpose.</p> + +<p>We were pestered with two very modest requests, +which were not in our power to grant. In the first +place, the native inhabitants sent a deputation to +ask us to use our influence with the Governor of +Mourzuk to procure a reduction of their taxes; and +then the Arab troops desired that we should procure +for them their discharge. Our refusal even to take +the charge of these verbal petitions seemed very +harsh. An impression had evidently got abroad +that we came to bring about a general redress of +grievances; or, at any rate, that our influence was +far greater than we chose to avow.<a name="page75" id="page75"></a><span class="pageno">[75]</span></p> + +<p>I gave to the Kaïd a handkerchief, as well as +some snuff and tobacco. In return, he sent a little +bread and a fly-flapper; so that we parted good +friends. During our stay, we heard this jolly fellow +entertaining the chaouches and his own horsemen +with a description of the ladies of the Wady, who +had no reason to be flattered by his account. And +yet he seems to have married one himself: <i>hinc +illæ lachrymæ</i>, perhaps. My chaouch had already +given me a confirmation of these libels, and was +evidently greatly delighted by this testimony to his +exactitude.</p> + +<p>There are several roads from the Wady to Mourzuk, +all much about the same distance. It is said, +also, that Ghât is only ten days from Laghareefah. +We moved on a little further on the evening of the +4th, but did not start properly until next day, when +we made a long stretch of more than thirteen hours, +and encamped at the village of Agar, where I remembered +having halted once before on my way +from Ghât. During this day's march we found, +that what we had supposed to be the border of the +Mourzuk plateau was not in reality so. We soon +reached the summit of the cliffs, and having cast +back a glance upon the valley, with its expanse of +corn-fields and thousands of palm-trees, expected to +find an elevated plateau beyond; but the hills gradually +softened down into a plain on their eastern +side. Our route may be said to have led through a +wilderness, not a desert. On all sides were clusters of<a name="page76" id="page76"></a><span class="pageno">[76]</span> +the tholukh, which grows prettily up, and has a poetical +appearance. The ground at some places was strewed +with branches, cut down for the goats to feed on. +Then we came to a small wady full of <i>resou</i>, which +our marabout calls the "meat of the camel;" +and all the camels at once stopped, and for a long +time obstinately refused to proceed. This appeared +strange to us, but on inquiry we found that the +sagacious brutes remembered perfectly well that +until the evening there would be no herbage so +good, and were determined to have their fill whilst +there was an opportunity. The drivers, after indulging +them a few moments, took them in flank, and +their shouts of "<i>Isa! Isa!</i>" and some blows, at length +got the caravan out of this elysium of grass into +the hungry plain beyond. As we proceeded, a cold +bracing wind began to blow from the east, and considerably +chilled our frames. I had met the same +weather four years previously. Towards evening, +however, it became warmer, as it usually does. The +country was bare and level, like an expanse of dull-coloured +water; and the palm-trees that cluster +near the village rose slowly above the horizon as we +drew nigh. The sun had gone down, and the +plain stretched dim and shadowy around before we +came in sight of the group of hovels which form the +village. As I looked back, the scattered camels +slowly toiling along could be faintly traced against +the horizon.</p> + +<p>The Sheikh of Agar received us well this time,<a name="page77" id="page77"></a><span class="pageno">[77]</span> +sending us two fowls and supper for our people. +This place consists of huts made of palm-branches +and of mud hovels, several of which are in ruins. +The same remark constantly recurs in reference to +almost all the towns of Barbary, both towards the +coast and far in the interior. The vital principle +of civilisation seems to have exhausted itself in those +parts.</p> + +<p>I was now in a country comparatively familiar to +me, and knew that I had but one more ride to +reach the capital of Fezzan. Rising early on the +6th, therefore, I determined to press on in advance of +the caravan; and starting with warm weather, puffs +of wind coming now from the south-east, now from +the north-west, very unsteadily—the atmosphere +was slightly murky, with sand flying about—I soon +came in sight of the palm-groves of Mourzuk, without +making any other rencontre than a Tuarick +coursing over the desert in full costume. The old +castle peeped picturesquely through the trees, but I +had still a good way to go before reaching shelter. +The sand and white earth that form the surface of +the oasis near the town were painfully dazzling to +my eyes.</p> + +<p>At length I reached the suburbs, where a few +people stared curiously at me. My arrival had +been announced by the chaouches, who had gone +on about a quarter of an hour before; and at the +eastern gate the soldiers allowed me to pass without +notice, or any allusion to <i>gumruk</i>. Mr. Gagliuffi<a name="page78" id="page78"></a><span class="pageno">[78]</span> +had come out to meet me; but having taken +a different gate we crossed, and I arrived on my +camel at his house, and found it empty. My veil +being down in the streets I was recognised by no +one. The acting Governor had arranged to meet +me with twenty horsemen, but I had taken them +all quite unawares. The letters forwarded requesting +us to make a halt in the suburbs, and then advance +slowly in "holiday costume," for the sake of +effect, had not reached me. However, they had +hoisted the Ottoman flag on the castle, in honour of +our expected arrival,—a compliment that had not +before been paid to strangers, and one never offered +at Tripoli.</p> + +<p>Our German friends arrived shortly afterwards, +and we all had a very hospitable reception from +Mr. Gagliuffi, with whom we lodged. A few calls +were made upon us in the evening, but we were +glad enough to seek our beds. Next day the chief +people of the city, the Kady and other dignitaries, +began early to visit us. When we had exchanged +compliments with them, we went in full European +dress to wait on the acting Pasha. We found him +to be a very quiet, unassuming man, who gave us +a most kind and gentlemanlike reception, equal +to anything of the kind of Tripoli. He is a Turk, +and recognised me as having been before at Mourzuk. +We had coffee, pipes, and sherbet made of +oranges. Afterwards we visited the Treasurer, who +also gave us coffee, and was very civil; and finally<a name="page79" id="page79"></a><span class="pageno">[79]</span> +called upon the brother of the Governor of Ghât, +who was writing letters for us to-day.</p> + +<p>I feel in better health than when I left Tripoli. +Yet we are all a little nervous about the climate of +Mourzuk, which is situated in a slight depression +of the plain, in a place inclined to be marshy. The +Consul has just recovered from a severe illness.</p> + +<p>We had been, in all, thirty-nine days from Tripoli, +a considerable portion of which time was spent in +travelling. This makes a long journey; but I am +told that our camel-drivers should have brought us +by way of Sebha, and thus effected a saving of three +or four days. The greater portion of our sandy +journey was unnecessary, and merely undertaken +that these gentlemen might have an opportunity of +visiting their wives and families.</p> + +<p>On a retrospective view of the route from Tripoli +to Mourzuk, <i>viâ</i> Mizdah, I am inclined to divide the +country, for convenience sake, into a series of zones, +or regions.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>1st zone. This includes the sandy flat of the +suburbs of the town of Tripoli, with the date-palm +plantations and the sand-hills contiguous.</p> + +<p>2d zone. The mountains, or Tripoline Atlas, +embracing the rising ground with their influence +on the northern side, and the olive and fig plantations, +covering the undulating ground on the southern +side, where the Barbary vegetation is seen in all its +vigour and variety. This may also be emphatically +called the region of rain.<a name="page80" id="page80"></a><span class="pageno">[80]</span></p> + +<p>3d zone. The limestone hills and broad valleys, +gradually assuming the aridity of the Sahara as +you proceed southward, between the town of Kaleebah +and Ghareeah; the olive plantations and corn-fields +disappear, entirely in this tract.</p> + +<p>4th zone. The Hamadah, an immense desert +plateau, separating Tripoli from Fezzan.</p> + +<p>5th zone. The sandy valleys and limestone rocks +between El-Hasee and Es-Shaty, where herbage and +trees are found, affording food to numerous gazelles, +hares, and the wadan.</p> + +<p>6th. The sand between Shaty and El-Wady, +piled in masses, or heaps, extending in undulating +plains, and occasionally opening in small valleys +with herbage and trees.</p> + +<p>7th. The sandy valleys of El-Wady, covered +with forests of date-palms, through which peep a +number of small villages.</p> + +<p>8th. The plateau of Mourzuk, consisting of shallow +valleys, ridges of low sandstone hills, and naked +flats, or plains, sometimes of sand, at others covered +with pebbles and small stones.</p> +</div> + +<p>All these zones beyond the Atlas are visited by +only occasional showers, or are entirely without rain, +the vegetation depending upon irrigation from wells. +I do not go into further detail on this subject, because, +although our line of route was new, this stretch +of country is tolerably well known to the geographical +reader.</p> + +<p>I have omitted to mention, or to lay much stress<a name="page81" id="page81"></a><span class="pageno">[81]</span> +on the fact, that we were unable to procure sufficient +camels at Tripoli to convey our goods all the way to +Mourzuk. We were compelled to leave three +camel-loads behind, in the first place, at Gharian; +these were subsequently got on to Kaleebah, and +thence to Mizdah: but there the influence of Izhet +Pasha's circular letter entirely failed to procure for +us three extra camels, and we were compelled to push +on to Mourzuk, leaving part of our goods in the +oasis. This circumstance caused me a great deal of +annoyance, both on the route and after our arrival, for +it was a long time before we got in all our baggage. +However, it at last arrived, and the delay only +served to illustrate the difficulty of procuring conveyance +in these dismal countries, and to lead us +into considerable expense.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page82" id="page82"></a><span class="pageno">[82]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter6" id="chapter6"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>The Oasis of Fezzan—Population—Ten Districts—Their +Denomination and Condition—Sockna—Honn—Worm of the Natron +Lakes—Zoueelah—Mixed Race—Improvements in Mourzuk—Heavy +Ottoman Yoke—Results of the Census—Amount of Revenue—Military +Force—Arab Cavaliers—Barracks—Method of +Recruiting—Turkish System superior to French—Razzias—Population +of Mourzuk—Annual Market—Articles of Traffic—Acting-Governor +and his Coadjutors—Story of a faithless Woman—Transit +Duties in Fezzan—Slave Trade—Sulphur in the Syrtis—Proposed +Colony from Malta.</p> +</div> + +<p>The Pashalic of Fezzan, although it occupies a +considerable space upon the map—advancing like +a peninsula from the line of Barbary countries +into the Sahara—is in reality a very insignificant +province. From all that I can learn, its entire population +does not exceed twenty-six thousand souls, +scattered about in little oases over a vast extent of +country. It is, in fact, a portion of the Sahara, in +which fertile valleys occur a little more frequently +than in the other portions. Immense deserts, sometimes +perfectly arid, but at others slightly sprinkled +with herbage, separate these valleys; and are periodically +traversed by caravans, great and small, +which in the course of time have covered the country +with a perfect network of tracks.<a name="page83" id="page83"></a><span class="pageno">[83]</span></p> + +<p>Fezzan is divided into ten districts, of which the +principal is El-Hofrah, containing the capital, +Mourzuk, and several smaller towns. It is here +and there besprinkled with beautiful gardens, in +which are cultivated, besides the date-palm, several +of the choicest fruits that grow on the coast—as figs, +grapes, peaches, pomegranates, and melons. In +these gardens, as in most of the oases of the desert, +the fruit trees that require most protection from the +sun are planted between the palms, which make a +kind of roof with their long leaves. Abd-el-Galeel +destroyed many of these groves to punish their +owners, refractory to his authority.</p> + +<p>Two crops are obtained in the year: in the +spring, barley and wheat are reaped; and in the +summer and autumn, Indian corn, ghaseb, and other +kinds of grain. All the culture is carried on by +means of irrigation, the water being thrown over the +fields by means of runnels of various dimensions +twice in the day; that is, once early in the morning, +and once late in the afternoon until dark.</p> + +<p>Wady Ghudwah is a single town with gardens, +and the other features common to all the Fezzan +oases.</p> + +<p>Sebha includes two towns, having a considerable +population, with gardens and date-palms.</p> + +<p>Bouanees includes three towns, well peopled, +and has immense numbers of date-palms.</p> + +<p>El-Jofrah contains the second capital or large +town of the pashalic, Sockna, built of stones and<a name="page84" id="page84"></a><span class="pageno">[84]</span> +mud, with nine or ten smaller towns, all tolerably +populous.</p> + +<p>Sockna is situated midway between Mourzuk +and Tripoli, and is about fourteen days from the +former. The inhabitants are Moors, and, besides +Arabic, speak a Berber dialect. Sockna is celebrated +for its fine sweet dates, called kothraee; and +there is abundance of every kind of this fruit. +A considerable quantity of grain is sown—wheat +and barley—and the gardens abound with peaches. +The town of Honn, distant about two hours from +this place, is nearly as large, and also surrounded +with gardens.</p> + +<p>Wady Gharby, and Es-Shaty, have already +been described. In the sands between these two +places are situated the celebrated natron lakes, in +which that miraculous dud ("worm") spontaneously +appears at certain seasons of the year, and is eaten +as people in Europe eat sardines—to sharpen the +appetite. The natron is also a source of profitable +exportation. Wady Sharky almost exactly resembles +Wady Gharby, in population and natural +features.</p> + +<p>Sharkeeah, besides some insignificant places, +includes the interesting ancient capital called +Zoueelah, whence the name of Zoilah is given by the +Tibboos to all Fezzan. Half the population of this +place consists of Shereefs, and there are indeed great +and increasing numbers of this class of persons +throughout the whole country.<a name="page85" id="page85"></a><span class="pageno">[85]</span></p> + +<p>Ghatroun includes, with Tajerby the most southern +place of Fezzan, three small towns. The inhabitants +are all black, speaking the Tibbooese and +Bornouese languages, and very little Arabic. The +other nine districts above enumerated contain a +mixed race, like the population of Mourzuk; but +some of the northern towns are inhabited by people +of purer blood, with comparatively fair complexions.</p> + +<p>Mourzuk itself, the seat of the Pashalic,—distant +about four hundred and twenty miles from Tripoli, +in a straight line, and five hundred, counting the +sinuosities of the road, <i>viâ</i> Benioleed, Bonjem, and +Sockna,—is a rising town, becoming daily more +salubrious by the improvements made since the +residence of the Turks here, and the subjection of +the inhabitants to a more orderly and powerful +government than they had been accustomed to. +The British Consul, Mr. Gagliuffi, has rendered important +aid to the administration, in embellishing +the appearance of Mourzuk, and giving it the air +and character of a Turkish city of the coast. Our +camel-drivers pretend that it is already superior to +Tripoli. At the Consul's suggestion a colonnade has +been built in the main street, in front of the shops, +affording shelter from the fiery rays of the summer +sun, as well as being an agreeable place for the natives +to lounge under and make their purchases. He was +also the principal promoter of the erection of new barracks +for the troops, and the appropriation of a large +house as a hospital for the poor. His last improvement<a name="page86" id="page86"></a><span class="pageno">[86]</span> +is the plantation of a garden of the choice fruit-trees +and vegetables of the coast; and his example +has been imitated by the Bim Bashaw, commandant +of the troops, who is now laying out a garden in a +conspicuous part of the city.</p> + +<p>Since the departure of Abd-el-Galeel with his +Arab followers, the Walad Suleiman, for the neighbourhood +of Bornou, the province of Fezzan has +certainly enjoyed profound tranquillity. But on +account of heavy taxation, high customs' dues, +and other clogs to free commerce, the people are +sinking deeper and deeper into poverty and wretchedness, +and, except in the capital, there is a general +retrograde movement. The Ottoman yoke is a +peculiarly heavy one; it keeps the people in order, +but it crushes them; and perhaps the Fezzanees +may now regret somewhat the wholesome anarchy +that distinguished the Arab chieftain's reign.</p> + +<p>As I have said, the entire population of the +ten districts of Fezzan is, according to the last +Turkish census, only about twenty-six thousand souls, +of whom about eleven thousand are males, including +the children. The disproportion of the sexes arises +in part from the number of female slaves, in part +from the emigration of the men to the commercial +countries of the interior, either for temporary +gain, or permanently to escape from the grinding +weight of taxation.</p> + +<p>The whole amount of revenue collected by the +Government is estimated at fifty thousand mahboubs +per annum. Twenty-three thousand of<a name="page87" id="page87"></a><span class="pageno">[87]</span> +these are raised by direct taxation, whilst the +remainder is produced by customs' dues and +the date-palm groves, which are the property of +Government.</p> + +<p>The military force by which the Turks hold possession +of this vast but thinly-peopled territory—stretching +north and south twenty-one days' journey, or +about three hundred miles—is the very inconsiderable +number of six hundred and thirty men. The garrison +of Mourzuk itself consists of four hundred and thirty +men, of whom about one-half are Fezzanees, twenty +or thirty Turks, and the residue Arabs or Moors. +The remaining three hundred are Arab cavaliers, +living chiefly on their own means, and changed +every year, who serve as a flying corps, or mounted +police, for all the districts of Fezzan. The rate of +pay for this latter class is one kail of wheat and half +a mahboub per month for those who have no horses, +and one kail of dates additional for those who are +mounted. This division, however, is fastidious at +present, as all those on service in Fezzan are now +possessed of horses. In the whole regency of Tripoli +there are but six hundred and sixty of these Arab +soldiers; but in Bonjem and the Syrtis they are not +cavalry, and the detachment at Ghadamez is +mixed.<a name="anchor3" id="anchor3"></a><a href="#footnote3" +class="fnanchor">[3]</a> I am afraid these janissaries are obliged to<a name="page88" id="page88"></a><span class="pageno">[88]</span> +commit spoliations in the towns and districts where +they are stationed to avoid starvation.</p> + +<p>I visited the barracks of Mourzuk, and found them +to be commodious, and apparently salubrious. The +good living of these stationary troops surprised me. +They have meat and excellent soup everyday, with +rice and biscuit. The Fezzanee is never so well fed +and well clothed and lodged as when he is a soldier. +Indeed the men seem too well off, in comparison with +their former state and with the rest of the population. +Nevertheless, they are glad to escape when +the time of their service expires. The people all +dread being made soldiers: so that Government is +compelled to resort to the most paltry tricks to get +recruits. Men are often unjustly charged with +theft or debt, and put in prison, and then let out as a +favour to be enlisted, or sometimes are clapped into +the ranks at once. Youths have been seized as soldiers +for kicking up the dust in front of a sentinel +and dirtying his clothes. I remarked the number of +soldiers that were black, and the Bim Bashaw +observed that he hoped the time would come when +there would not be a white private left in Mourzuk. +The Turks manage to do with twenty or thirty of +their own people, mostly officers, in this garrison; +but, by one method or another, get as many +Fezzanee recruits as they want.</p> + +<p>The Turkish system is vastly superior to the +French in this important matter of garrisoning their +possessions in Northern Africa. The latter require +one hundred men where the Turks are content with<a name="page89" id="page89"></a><span class="pageno">[89]</span> +one to hold the country. Perhaps one of the chief +reasons may be the difference of religion. The +Arabs and other natives of North Africa cannot +endure the sight of a ruler of another faith. Something, +however, may be attributed to the immense +and sacred authority of the Ottoman Sultan, the +great chief of the Mussulmans of the East, as the +Shereefan Emperor of Morocco is the chief of the +Mussulmans of the West. We may add, also, the +tremendous severity of the Turkish criminal law, or, +rather, the inexorable justice with which a crime +committed against a Turkish functionary is visited. +The French make their razzias and strike off heads +enough; but their criminal code in Algeria is perhaps +not so summary and sanguinary as that of the Turks. +Possibly one of the chief reasons of this curious +contrast may be the fact that the French soldier is +scarcely to be depended on when isolated. He acts +well in masses, but considers himself deserted and +betrayed when left comparatively alone. At any +rate, the fact is that the Turks hold Tripoli with a +handful of men, whilst the French, with a military +force nearly as large as the whole British army, +can scarcely maintain a feverish and uncertain possession +of Algeria.</p> + +<p>The population of Mourzuk numbers two thousand +souls. It is very much mixed, and the people +vary greatly in colour, so that there is no general +character. There are more women than children, +the greater portion of the females belonging to the<a name="page90" id="page90"></a><span class="pageno">[90]</span> +members of the great winter caravans. Contrary +to what I had been told, these women seem to be +rather remarkable for modesty and virtue than +otherwise. It is worth observing, that Fatamah, the +proper name of Mahomet's daughter, is here used, by +excess of delicacy, to describe the softer sex, more +especially ladies.</p> + +<p>From October to January, as at Ghât, there is a +large annual souk, or market, at Mourzuk. One +general caravan comes from Bornou and Soudan, +every year during the winter season, and small +bodies of merchants also go up and down to Soudan +in the summer; whilst to Bornou there is no intermediate +trade. Caravans also congregate here from +Egypt, Bengazi, Tripoli, Ghadamez, Ghât, and +Tuat. From forty thousand to sixty thousand Spanish +dollars is the value of the merchandise that usually +changes hands during the great mart. The principal +articles of traffic from the interior are slaves, +senna, and ivory. This is the first year that a +hundred and fifty cantars of elephants' teeth have +been brought from Bornou; sixty or seventy of +these were consigned to one merchant, forty were on +account of the Vizier of Bornou, and the remainder +belonged to Arab traders. This export of elephants' +teeth direct <i>viâ</i> Fezzan has only lately been opened. +Some manufactured cottons are likewise brought +from Soudan, and sell easily in this part of the Sahara, +especially amongst the Tuaricks. Besides, there +are exported bullocks' and goats' skins, and a small<a name="page91" id="page91"></a><span class="pageno">[91]</span> +quantity of ostrich feathers. The gum trade has +lately been introduced into Fezzan by the British +Consul, and one hundred cantars per annum are +already collected from the tholukh-trees.</p> + +<p>The acting Governor of Fezzan always resides +at Mourzuk. His principal coadjutors in the despatch +of affairs are a Kady with two secretaries, a +Sheikh or mayor of the city, some respectable men +who act as privy councillors, the Wakeels of Bengazi, +Augila, Sokna, &c.</p> + +<p>A little story may find its place here, as an apt +illustration of the state of society and manners in +this out-of-the-way capital. A married woman +preferred another man to her husband, and frankly +confessed that her affections had strayed. Her lord, +instead of flying into a passion, and killing her on +the spot, thought a moment, and said,—</p> + +<p>"I will consent to divorce you, if you will +promise one thing."</p> + +<p>"What is that?" inquired the delighted wife.</p> + +<p>"You must looloo to me only when I pass on +the day of the celebration of your nuptials with the +other man."</p> + +<p>Now it is, the custom for women, under such +circumstances, to looloo (that is, salute with a peculiar +cry) any handsome male passer-by. However, +the woman promised, the divorce took place, and +the lover was soon promoted into a second husband. +On the day of the wedding, however, the man who +had exacted the promise passed by the camel on<a name="page92" id="page92"></a><span class="pageno">[92]</span> +which the bride was riding, and saluted her, as is +the custom, with the discharge of his firelock. +Upon this she remembered, and looloed to him. +The new bridegroom, enraged at this marked preference, +noticing that she had not greeted any one +else, and thinking possibly that he was playing the +part of a dupe, instantly fell upon his bride and slew +her. He had scarcely done so when the brothers of +the woman came up and shot him down; so that the +first husband compassed ample vengeance without +endangering himself in the slightest degree. This +is an instance of Arab cunning.</p> + +<p>A subject of considerable importance was brought +under my attention at Mourzuk. It appears that +whilst the objects of legitimate commerce, in being +exported from the interior to Fezzan and Tripoli, +pay double duties—that is, twelve and a-half per +cent in each place—slaves pay no transit duty +whatever in this regency of Barbary if they are +destined for the Constantinople market, and even if +sold in Tripoli or Fezzan only pay once a duty of +ten mahboubs per head. It frequently happens +besides that the Turkish merchants, who embark +with their slaves for Constantinople, sell a considerable +number on the way. On arriving at their +destination, they pretend that such as are missing +from their register have died; and in this manner +they contrive to evade the payment of all duty +whatever. It has been attempted to get the impost +of ten mahboubs paid in Mourzuk, and likewise to<a name="page93" id="page93"></a><span class="pageno">[93]</span> +force all the caravans to take that route. This would +have acted as a check upon the slave-trade; but the +influence of the Gadamsee merchants was too great +to allow the measure to be carried out. It is most +important that the legitimate trade should not be +burdened with double custom-dues, and it is to be +hoped that the influence of the British Government +will be used to bring about some reform in +this matter. We should bear in mind, that as most +of the goods and merchandise passing through Fezzan +are only in transit, they are therefore legally subject +to a duty of no more than three per cent.</p> + +<p>I have paid as much attention to this subject of +the encouragement of the legitimate trade as my +time and other occupations would allow me. It will +be as well to make a note here on another point, +though it may seem out of place,—the existence of +sulphur in the Syrtis. There appears no doubt that this +substance can be procured at the foot of a mountain +called Gebel Sinoube, about six miles from the sea +at the innermost point of the Syrtis. A considerable +quantity is obtained by the Arabs near this mountain, +about eighteen camel-hours south-west from a +place on the coast called Maktar, the eastern limits +of the district Syrt. There is also good sulphur +found in the Gebel-Harouj, five or six days east +from Sokna. But what is really the per-centage +of pure sulphur on the rough masses of the mines is +not ascertained; nor is the quality precisely known, +except that of the Harouj mountain. Accurate information<a name="page94" id="page94"></a><span class="pageno">[94]</span> +could only be procured by despatching a +trustworthy Sicilian miner to make a report. +Perhaps these mines could only be brought into +profitable working in the event of the stoppage of a +supply from Sicily. It has been proposed to establish +a colony of Maltese at Zafran, on the shore of +the Syrtis. If this idea were carried out, the sulphur +mines might by this means be brought into play.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote3" id="footnote3"></a><a href="#anchor3">[3]</a> The distribution of the corps is as follows:—</p> + +<table summary="" style="margin-left: 5%;"> +<tr><td>In</td><td>Gibel</td><td></td><td align="right">150</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>Fezzan</td><td></td><td align="right">200</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>The Syrtis</td><td></td><td align="right">150</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>Bonjem</td><td></td><td align="right">60</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>Ghadamez</td><td></td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page95" id="page95"></a><span class="pageno">[95]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter7" id="chapter7"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<h3>DIARY OF RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.</h3> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Sickness of Gagliuffi—Baggage left at Mizdah—Runthar Aga—The +Hospital—Various Visits—Arrival of the New Governor—Animated +Scene—Correspondence—Visit Mustapha Agha—Bragging +Sheikh Boro—Tibboos of Tibesty—Curious Country—Presents +to Turkish Functionaries—A Woman divorced—Haj +Lameen—Presents expected—Brilliant Atmosphere—Water-Melons—The +Gardens—Winnowing Grain—Houses of Salt +Mud—Nymphs of the Gardens—Wells—Presents to +Functionaries—Phrenology—Queen's Birthday—Walks in the Orchards +and Gardens—Corn-threshing—Kingdom of Aheer—Ass's Head—A +Wedding—A Funeral—Great Dinner—Tibboos—Prepare +to depart—The Pilgrim Caravan; its Privileges—Tuat and the +French—Departure of Germans—Wife of Es-Sfaxee—An Arab +Saying—Letters—Disease—Arrival of Escort—Eastern +Consulates—Business—Hateetah—The Son of Shafou—Poor Sheikhs—Hard +Bargain.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>May 7th.</i>—We are already busy with preparations +for our start to the interior. Mr. Gagliuffi has +written to Ghât to-day for Hateetah and his escort +of Tuaricks. Excitement protects us, perhaps, +from the deadly influence of the climate of Mourzuk. +Mr. Gagliuffi is recovering from a severe +attack, and anticipates being obliged to leave for +the coast. We trust he will not be driven from his +post whilst we are in Soudan. However, we must<a name="page96" id="page96"></a><span class="pageno">[96]</span> +trust to the same Providence that has hitherto +watched over us.</p> + +<p>I am having all our letters of recommendation +for the interior copied, to be sent home to Government, +so that if anything happen to us they may +know what kind of support we have received. If +anything happen! The presence of that doubt gives +a solemnity and an importance to the most trifling +thing we do. A soldier is allowed to indulge in +serious thought before going into battle, and the +chances in his favour are greater than those in +ours. We, too, may have to do battle with men; +but the dangers of the desert are also arrayed +against us, and when they are passed, the miasmas +of Central Africa fill the air beyond.</p> + +<p>The marabout, with his camel and burden, has +not yet come up; he left us to visit his country. +We are likewise still without news of three camel-loads +left behind at Mizdah. There is always a +train of stragglers behind every caravan that is not +huddled together by fear. We should never have +procured beasts enough on the road, and did well +to take them direct from Tripoli. The Pasha's +circular letter was of little or no use in this respect; +and, indeed, we could not expect it to cause camels +to start out of the ground.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—I paid a visit to the commandant of the +troops, Runthar Aga, Bim Bashaw, quite a Christian +Moor; and got information on military affairs +whilst tasting the soup in the kitchen. Also called<a name="page97" id="page97"></a><span class="pageno">[97]</span> +upon our old friend the Doctor, and inspected the +hospital, which certainly holds out no temptation to +a man to be ill. The patients are few: two have +strong fevers; five or six are convalescent; the sick-list +contains no other cases; but it will be different +when summer comes on.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—Received a visit from the acting Governor, +and presented him with a bottle of snuff. Like +other great men, this Pasha makes a great consumption +of rappee, and empties nearly a box +a-day.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—The military seem to have taken a fancy +to us. Here comes the Commandant, to return our +call, with all the officers of the garrison. Smiles +and courtesy are the order of the day. Dr. Overweg +brings out some of his scientific instruments, +and the knowing ones have an opportunity of +showing their ignorance. All passes off well. Mr. +Gagliuffi observes: "You would not have had +so much attention paid to you in Tripoli." Possibly; +but this may partly be accounted for by the +rarity of Europeans at Mourzuk. Familiarity has +not had time to breed contempt.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—There is excitement in the town. What +news? The new acting Governor, my old acquaintance +of Ghadamez, Rais Mustapha, is in sight, +hull above the horizon. We all go out to meet +him, and soon see his <i>cortège</i> breaking between +the groves. This is the gayest and most spirited +scene I have witnessed since leaving Tripoli. Mustapha<a name="page98" id="page98"></a><span class="pageno">[98]</span> +brings his staff and 200 Arab cavaliers with +him, to relieve the Fezzan irregulars. They make +a gallant-looking body of men as they come swiftly +on. All the authorities of the town, with whatever +cavalry is already collected here, pour out of the +gates to pay their compliments; and then come +crowds of the lower classes of citizens, with their +rude bagpipes, which scream discordantly. The +horsemen galloped hither and thither in the plain +whilst the interview between the great men took +place, and effectually drowned all the polite things +that were said by their trampling and hurrahing. +We rode up likewise to welcome the new great +man. Mustapha looked well, was excellently +mounted, and dressed almost like an European officer. +He smiled graciously on seeing his old +friend of Ghadamez, and shook me by the hand; +he also recognised the Germans, having seen them +at Zaweeah, near Tripoli. Satisfied with this little +interview, we drew aside, and the procession moved +towards the gate. There was instantly a rush of the +Arab horsemen, every one trying to get in front; +and as the entry was narrow an obstruction soon +took place. We drew aside, and called out to +those who were pressing on to make way for the +Governor. One fellow would not hear; and Mustapha +himself riding up, lashed him with a small +whip across the shoulders. Bad taste; but perhaps +excusable in this case, if ever. These lawless +soldiery can never be taught good manners, without<a name="page99" id="page99"></a><span class="pageno">[99]</span> +which true discipline is impossible. However, +we at length got within the gate, and the procession +poured along the streets, the women <i>loo-looing</i> as +we passed, the bagpipes shrieking louder than ever, +the crowd buzzing, the horses thundering, the cavaliers +shouting. In fine, this hubbub carried us +quite back into the regions of civilisation, where +men collect on public occasions often without any +real joy, and by mere process of action and reaction +succeed in working themselves up into a state of +boisterous enthusiasm.</p> + +<p>Several days were now chiefly occupied in writing +reports on the progress made by the expedition +hitherto; and in voluminous correspondence on +petty, matters—petty, I mean, in themselves, but +very important to us—all connected with our future +proceedings. I forwarded to the Foreign Office a +letter addressed by the Sultan Laoul, of the Tibboos +of Bilma, to Mr. Gagliuffi. It appears these +people are now nominally subject to the Ottoman +Porte.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—We went to pay a visit to Mustapha +Agha, my old friend of Ghadamez. He received +us with all the honours—a guard of officers, pipes, +coffee, and sherbet. That important subject of +health was a good deal talked of. Mustapha fears +the climate of Fezzan, and finds little consolation +in the doctrines of fatalism. He seemed surprised +at the bulk of the despatches last forwarded from the +Consulate, and asked if we all knew how to write. +He cannot understand the necessity of minute<a name="page100" id="page100"></a><span class="pageno">[100]</span> +directions. We explained as well as we could; and +then talked of the journeys we had respectively performed. +This gave Mustapha an opportunity of +astonishing us in his Turkish way. He said that he +had come with 200 men and 300 camels from +Tripoli in sixteen days, having stopped only one +day, and travelled regularly from three in the +afternoon to nine next morning. We marvelled, +as in duty bound; but refrained not from making +inquiries; the result of which was, that the real time +was thirty-one days, only eight days less than we +had occupied. We did not scold Mustapha for his +exaggeration, but might perhaps have done so +without offence. When a Turk does tell a lie, he +submits to be accused of it with good-humour.</p> + +<p>After leaving the hyperbolical Governor, we +went to see Sheikh Mohammed Boro, Sakontaroua +of Aghadez, who has arrived here <i>en route</i> +from Mekka. He was recommended to us by +Hassan Pasha of Tripoli; but Mr. Gagliuffi does +not think much of him. We shall see.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Walked in the gardens, and were pleased +with their aspect. On returning, I wrote out the +different kinds of dates in this country. We saw +some Egyptian camels with a pilgrim caravan, of +a dark and almost black colour.</p> + +<p>My Fezzanee marabout, by the way, has left +Mourzuk, after making me a present of some cakes +and dates of dainty quality. He has been of great +use to me, and I shall remember him with pleasure.</p> + +<p>I had to-day a conversation with a Tibboo of<a name="page101" id="page101"></a><span class="pageno">[101]</span> +Tibesty. How interesting it is to talk with the +natives of those untrodden countries, to which +chance may some day lead us! He says Tibesty +is ten days from Gatroun, and fourteen from Mourzuk. +It is all mountainous, except one long wady +where the population is located. There is no regular +town; but all along the valley the population, +which is said to be about 5000, though desert +statistics are little to be credited, is scattered in +groups of three or four, cultivating the ground and +tending on the flocks which feed on the rich +herbage, whilst goats scramble for food along the +slopes of the boundary mountains. The people +dwell either in huts or in caverns scooped out of +the sides of hills, some of them very extensive. +What a picture of primitive life! Families living +separate, not yet driven to hide behind walls, or +congregate in masses for safety. The desert is their +bulwark. This place lies, indeed, far east of the +caravan route from Bornou. There is no road +direct eastward from Tibesty, but caravans can go +south-east to Wadaï. The valley produces, besides +other grain, a good quantity of ghaseb, which is the +principal food of the inhabitants. Some palms rise +here and there in clumps, but are not very productive; +and dates are imported from Fezzan. +The tree most frequent is the tholukh; but there +is also another common tree, called the arak. In +the open country, the wadan, the gazelle, and the +ostrich are found, and the people hunt them with +dogs. Good water is supplied by wells and streams,<a name="page102" id="page102"></a><span class="pageno">[102]</span> +in sufficient quantities to irrigate the fields of +ghaseb, wheat, and barley. Rain is abundant some +years, but fails in others; torrents are continually +descending from the mountains: one stream flows +through a space of two days' journey. If these accounts +be correct, the country must be one of the +most interesting in Africa. They say, that on account +the height of the mountains some of the inhabitants +do not see the moon for fifteen days together. A +Sultan rules paternally in this out-of-the-way country, +where the Mohammedan religion reigns paramount. +My informant made me pay three Tunisian +piastres and two common handkerchiefs for a +vocabulary of the language of the Tibboos of +Tibesty. A visit to this singular oasis might repay +a hardy traveller; but the people of the country +have a faithless character, and it would be +dangerous to trust to their promises of protection.</p> + +<p>The Tibesty Tibboos must not be confounded +with the Tibboos of the salt-mines of Bilma, who +have recently made their submission to the Porte. +There is little connexion between the people, although +they speak a similar language. The Bilma +Tibboos lie in the direct route to Bornou, and were +fully studied by the Denham and Clapperton +expedition.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—Continue to prepare papers to send +home. Report the fact, that the functionaries of +Mourzuk trade in slaves.</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—I had lent Mustapha a sword; but, after +keeping it a night, he was obliged to return it, sending<a name="page103" id="page103"></a><span class="pageno">[103]</span> +word that a firmân had been written to all the +functionaries of the Porte, forbidding them to receive +any presents,—an excellent measure, doing credit to +the Sultan's administration. The great plague of +the East is the system of bribery carried on +under the form of presents. The pay of the Pasha +is six hundred and fifty mahboubs per month, nearly +all spent in the town.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—The weather is extremely hot and sultry. +The sun burns the umbrella if you pass for a few +minutes under it. Even the natives complain of the +extreme heat of the weather.</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—Not quite so oppressive; but, as Dr. +Barth says, the south wind blows throughout Northern +Africa in May.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—This morning, the black who came with +us, and had two wives, divorced one of them, returning +the woman's dowry of thirty-seven Tunisian +piastres. The divorce took place before the Kady +in the open streets.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—Haj Lameen came to see me. He +does not forget to remind us that the Tuaricks +expect many presents. I have no doubt they do. +He says we must be generous at all the following +places:—Ghât, Aheer, Aghadez, Damerghou, +Zinder, Minyou, Tesaouah, Kashna, Kanou, Sakkatou, +Bornou, Begharmi, Mandara, and to the +Tibboos of Bilma; not to mention the intermediate +towns and villages. However, if the presents be +valuable, we may expect in some places rations of<a name="page104" id="page104"></a><span class="pageno">[104]</span> +food in return. It is worthy of remark, that this +said Haj Lameen, brother of the governor of Ghât, +took an oath during the past year that he would +never again purchase slaves. This is a remarkable +instance of the progress of opinion. I afterwards +gave Lameen a present, consisting of one pound of +tea, five pounds of coffee, and four heads of loaf +sugar. This was the first considerable present I +made. In the evening we observed Mercury in +conjunction with Venus. The heavens were unusually +bright for Mourzuk. We saw also +Jupiter's satellites at seven in the evening. The two +upper ones were much nearer than the two lower +ones to the great planet, but all in a line. Mars +was very bright. The rings, or extinct volcanoes of +the moon, were also truly transparent this evening. +Usually the sky of Mourzuk is charged with a dirty +red haze, and not at all favourable to astronomical +observations.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—The culture of water-melons is progressing +for the summer season. The melons are planted in +the irrigation ducts that lead to the squares of +clover, which is cultivated at this season for the +horses of the cavalry stationed here, and also for the +camels of the merchants. Every fifteen or twenty +days a fresh crop is ready, all produced by irrigation.</p> + +<p>The fig-tree is found frequently in the gardens +of Fezzan, and when planted near a well, produces +as fine fruit as those on the coast. The rich green<a name="page105" id="page105"></a><span class="pageno">[105]</span> +of its leaves is very refreshing to the eye. During +the present season, however, the greater portion of +the gardens is devoted to onion-raising. Whole +fields are covered with this vegetable. Parsley is +running to seed. The korna is also seen in the +suburbs. Few birds visit the gardens of Fezzan, +which are all planted with palms. One or two +groves have been recently added, and are distinguished +as the "new trees." The irrigated beds +are covered with palm-shoots, the curving fan-like +leaves bending prettily over the ground.</p> + +<p>The winnowing of grain is conducted in the most +slovenly manner. The ripe ears with the dry stalks +are thrown on the sand, and then half-a-dozen +donkeys are driven over them—an animated threshing +machine. The grain, of course, mixes with the +sand, and is separated from it with considerable loss +and waste of time.</p> + +<p>The sandy soil of the gardens is sometimes +mixed with a large quantity of salt, which gives +it a firm consistence. Of this soil the houses of +the city are built. Rain would melt them; but +this blessing never cools the scorching atmosphere +of Mourzuk.<a name="anchor4" id="anchor4"></a><a href="#footnote4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> + +<p>In this day's agricultural and horticultural walk +I fell in with the nymphs of the gardens; or, in +other words, the washerwomen of Mourzuk. They<a name="page106" id="page106"></a><span class="pageno">[106]</span> +come out constantly to the wells, when the irrigation +is going on, early in the morning or late in the +evening, and thus take advantage of the supply of +water raised. They are all dark women of the city, +for the most part unlovely and very dirty in appearance, +despite their occupation. Their system of +washing is the primitive one practised by the +labouring classes all over the north of Africa. They +roll up the clothes into a round flat heap, and then +with their heels keep up a continual round of treading, +using for soap a peculiar sort of clay. Some of +the girls are very impudent and immodest when a +stranger passes by; but as a rule they are not so. +The wells at Mourzuk are not all good; some are +fresh, others salt. In many places will be found a +well of very sweet, delicious water; and running +nearly to the surface, at twenty paces distant from it, +are found others really quite salt. The same phenomenon +has been observed at Siwah, in the Libyan +desert.</p> + +<p>One of our party received a present this morning +of some fresh and most delicious leghma. A good +deal is drunk in Mourzuk, in an acrid state, for the +purposes of intoxication.</p> + +<p>In the evening I went to see the acting Pasha, +with the Consul. He received us with his usual +urbanity, and gave coffee and lemonade twice. He +mentioned the things which a functionary of government +was permitted to receive as presents,—viz., two +sheep, twelve pounds and a half of butter, fifty eggs, +and two fowls. This to be received once only from<a name="page107" id="page107"></a><span class="pageno">[107]</span> +a friend. But some of the functionaries say they +can receive a cantar of butter, if divided into sufficiently +small quantities, and spread over several +days.</p> + +<p>People all admire the clock I purchased for the +Sultan of Sakkatou, to give him instead of the +chronometer. When it strikes the hours, I tell them +it speaks various languages, at which they are +greatly astonished.</p> + +<p>Yesterday evening, a shower of bats made their +appearance at dusk.</p> + +<p><i>22d.</i>—I went with Dr. Overweg to visit the Pilgrims. +We had previously examined the head of +one of them phrenologically. The news had been +spread in the tents, and the whole troop came to +have their craniums studied on our arrival amongst +them. This science—if such it can be called—tickles +the fancies of people hereabouts, being suited +to their capacity. One fellow wished to know from +his head whether he should gain much money this +year. They looked upon the matter as a species of +fortune-telling.</p> + +<p><i>23d.</i>—The Pilgrims' heads must have itched all +night. Here they are again to have them handled! +All the polls in Mourzuk will probably pass under +our hands if this goes on. It is singular that the +pilgrimage to Mekka has not nourished sufficient +fanaticism to prevent these good people from allowing +an infidel doctor to make free with their crowns, +and expatiate on their passions and propensities.<a name="page108" id="page108"></a><span class="pageno">[108]</span> +There is no calculating on the strength of the +impulse of curiosity.</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—The Queen's birthday. At eight o'clock +Mr. Gagliuffi fired a musket, and hoisted the +British jack and pennant over the Consulate. At +noon, fifty-one discharges of muskets and matchlocks +announced the auspicious event to the natives of +this city, and to the Tibboos, Tuaricks, Soudanese, +Bornouese, and all other strangers of the Sahara and +Central Africa. In the evening, the Consul gave a +dinner to us travellers and to the Pasha and his +officers. The healths of her Majesty, the Sultan, +and the King of Prussia, were drunk in champagne +with enthusiasm. There were thirty or forty dishes +on the table, and among them a turkey, the first +ever killed in this city. Mr. Gagliuffi had recently +brought a cock and hen from Tripoli. A small +saloon was decorated with banners and cotton-stuffs +of Soudan, with various devices. Amongst these were +a small portrait of her Majesty; an Ottoman blood-red +flag, with its crescent and star; and a white flag +with the Prussian black eagle. The effect was excellent, +and quite astonished the natives. The Turks +ate and drank famously, and for the most part got +"elevated." When in this state it was curious to +see them clawing at the viands, utterly forgetful of +Eastern gravity and decorum. I must observe, however, +that Mustapha Bey himself and one other +officer declined to drink wine. The Turks seem very +tolerant to one another in this respect. It is left as<a name="page109" id="page109"></a><span class="pageno">[109]</span> +a matter for the decision of every man's individual +conscience. These sensible people do not think that, +because a man is inclined to be an ascetic himself, +he is bound to force all other people to be so likewise.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—I took a walk in the gardens this evening, +and came upon two or three small circular orchards, +having within the circle simply room for holding +water, like a shallow pond, with fruit-trees, vines, fig-trees, +and pomegranates clustering around. These +orchards, when thus formed close by the well-side, +are very luxuriant. People now begin to sow ghaseb, +ghafouly, dra, and such grains, which are reaped +in the summer season. Barley and wheat are sown +in autumn or winter, and reaped in spring. As I +walked I noticed that the sky was darkly overcast, +as if threatening rain; and presently, sure enough, a +few precious drops fell on the thirsty sandy soil!</p> + +<p>I observed a new plant, large, with broad and +smooth thick velvety leaves, but omitted to write +down the name. It produces a milky juice, with +which the people dye the palms of their hands, instead +of with henna. The plant has a disagreeable odour, +and every appearance of being poisonous; but they +say it is not so, being only bitter in taste.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—In my morning's walk I had the coolest +weather experienced since our arrival at Mourzuk. +The wind was from the north-east and the sky much +overcast. It actually rained,—a slight shower of +ten minutes' duration. How gratefully the trees<a name="page110" id="page110"></a><span class="pageno">[110]</span> +seemed to spread their leaves to catch the pleasing +drops! The gardens and groves all wore a happy +smile. We hear, that lately a great deal of rain has +fallen in the Ghât district, and on the route to +Aheer.</p> + +<p>The people are preparing to thresh their corn, +and I was interested in observing all the details of +their process. They had scattered yesterday evening +the full ripe grain in its dry stalks over the ground, +in the form of a large circle, to the depth of about +two inches; and had then smoothed the sand all +around in small ridges, so that if a thief came +during the night they might observe his footmarks. +They thresh out the grain by means of four or five +asses or camels tied abreast, and driven round and +round over this primitive floor. Great waste is +occasioned by allowing the grain to mix with and +sink in the sand; the task of winnowing is most +difficult afterwards.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—This day I had some conversation with +Boro, the Sheikh of Aghadez, about the country +and localities of Aheer,—a Saharan kingdom never +yet explored, and which we intend to traverse on +our circuitous route across the desert. It appears +that Aheer is the general name of the whole cluster +of towns and districts; that Aghadez is the medineh, +or city; and that Asouty is a town on the line of +the caravan route to Soudan,—a regular halting-place. +Asben and Asbenouah are other names +given to this same territory, and do not denote<a name="page111" id="page111"></a><span class="pageno">[111]</span> +other countries. The Tibboos and Bornouese describe +the whole territory of Fezzan as Zoilah, a +name derived from that of the ancient capital, +Zoueelah. These double names have hitherto +caused great confusion in laying down unvisited +places in the desert. If we can penetrate and +explore the kingdom of Aheer or Asben, it will be +doing a great service to geography.</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—I am studying rural life in the neighbourhood +of Mourzuk, as if it were to be my occupation. +Scarcely a day passes that I do not escape from the +crowded town and wander, either morning or +evening, into the gardens, the groves, and the fields. +The water raised by rude machinery from the wells +is always dancing along in little runnels. The +chattering of women crosses my path right and left. +Groups of labourers or gardeners occur frequently. +A man this day valued a date-palm at a mahboub, +and I am told that the greater number are not +worth more than a shilling of English money. To +avert the evil eye from the gardens, the people put +up the head of an ass, or some portion of the bones +of that animal. The same superstition prevails in +all the oases that stud the north of Africa, from +Egypt to the Atlantic, but the people are unwilling +to explain what especial virtue there exists in an +ass's skull. We go sometimes to shoot doves in +the gardens; but these birds are very shy, and after +the first shot fly from tree to tree and keep out of +range. So we stroll about making observations, to<a name="page112" id="page112"></a><span class="pageno">[112]</span> +console ourselves for the loss of sport. We noticed +several cotton-bushes, but this useful plant is not +cultivated here except that it may ornament the +gardens with its green. I have just eaten of the +heart of the date-tree. It is of a very delicious +bitter, and is a choice dish at feasts.</p> + +<p>I met with a number of the suburban inhabitants +engaged in celebrating a wedding. First came a +group of women, dancing and throwing themselves +into a variety of slow, languid, and lascivious postures, +to the sound of some very primitive string-instrument. +Towards this group all the women of +the neighbouring huts were gathering, some merely +as spectators, others bringing dishes of meat. +Beyond was a crowd of men, among whom was +the bridegroom helping the musicians to make a +noise. These musicians were an old man and old +woman, each above ninety years of age. The latter +beat a calabash with a stick, whilst the former drew +a bow over a single string tied to another calabash. +The bridegroom had got hold of a brass kettle, with +which he supplied his contribution to the din. +Preparations for supper were going on; and, the +harmony announcing this fact, idlers were coming +in flocks from the distant hamlets and the fields. +Two new huts had been built, one for the bride and +the other for the bridegroom.</p> + +<p>These marriages produce very few children, +which may partly arise from licentiousness, but +chiefly, no doubt, from misery. I afterwards saw<a name="page113" id="page113"></a><span class="pageno">[113]</span> +the burial of an old lady, which ceremony set the +whole town in motion. The women screamed in +crowds, and a great number of men went outside +the walls to see the body consigned to its last +resting-place. Yusuf pretends that the burial took +place two hours after decease, which is the ordinary +practice here, although thirty-two hours are said to +be the proper time.</p> + +<p>To the 21st of May I was occupied in preparing +a short report on Fezzan, with statements of the +expedition and other necessary documents.</p> + +<p>We have had a grand dinner at the house of +the Greek doctor Paniotti. The Bey, Bim Bashaw, +his adjutant, the treasurer, and others were invited. +The French have boasted of the number of their +dishes, but I think the Turks beat them hollow in +this particular. Besides two whole lambs, fowls, +pigeons, there were at least twenty made dishes, +with every variety of rich sweetmeat. Amongst +the early fruits of the season we had figs and +apples. The dinner was not quite so merry as +Gagliuffi's, the champagne being absent.</p> + +<p>We had a smart rain-shower in the morning, +and in the evening also there was a tempest of +wind and lightning, and a little rain. The flashes +were very vivid, and lighted up the whole firmament.</p> + +<p>The Tibboos persist in saying that there is plenty +of water in their country, abundance of rain, frequent +springs; and some go so far as to describe<a name="page114" id="page114"></a><span class="pageno">[114]</span> +their streams as running a distance of from one to +eight days' journey. They acknowledge, however, +that the soil of their country is not very favourable +to much cultivation of grain and fruit. Perhaps +they want to attract visitors, but are not likely to +succeed at present. Justly or unjustly, they bear a +very bad character; and in Mourzuk, to call a man +a Tibboo is rather worse than to call a man a Jew +in Europe.</p> + +<p><i>June 1st</i>, Post-day.—Letters, private and public, +were forwarded. It is now determined that we +shall start for Ghât next Wednesday; at any rate the +Germans talk of doing so, whilst I am inclined to +wait for Hateetah and his escort. It would be imprudent +to run the risk of a disaster at this early +stage of our proceedings, and my greater responsibility +renders me more cautious, and perhaps more +timid, than my enthusiastic companions. I am +engaged in finishing my last despatches and +reports, collecting Arabic descriptions of Fezzan, +one of which is by the Bash Kateb, and corresponding +on the future expenditure of the Mission. The +weather has become very hot with the advancing +season, but I am now pretty well used to the heat. +The thermometer has risen to 103°; in Bornou it +rarely exceeds 105°: I may hope, therefore, to +brave the sun's rays under or near the line.</p> + +<p>Few incidents worth recording mark the latter +days of our stay at Mourzuk. I paid a visit to Abd-el-Kader, +the Sheikh of the Pilgrims. This holy<a name="page115" id="page115"></a><span class="pageno">[115]</span> +person is quite humanized, and talks freely of the +politics of the Barbary coast. He entertained +myself, the German, the Greek doctor, and +Gagliuffi with tea; and this at <i>sunset</i>, when all the +other pilgrims were at their prayers. He is a +Tuatee of Gharai, and has been many times to +Mekka in his present capacity. Indeed he makes +the journey about once every three years. The +pilgrim caravans travel very fast; no others can +keep up with them. On leaving any place where +they have halted, the Sheikh has the privilege of +demanding the release of two or three prisoners; +and the scandalous whisper that any Barabbas can +sometimes obtain his liberty by a judicious investment +of presents. When encamped near a town, +moreover, the tent of the Sheikh becomes an inviolable +asylum for every criminal who chooses to +take refuge there. Many other privileges equally +valuable are enjoyed by this functionary. Abd-el-Kader +himself is an extremely urbane gentleman, +and we retired quite satisfied with our reception. +He gave me a vocabulary of the Tuatee dialect, +and some account of the statistics of the place, +which I forwarded to the Foreign Office. It +appears that formerly the people of Tuat paid to +the Algerines five hundred camel-loads of dates and +ten <i>necks</i> of gold, i.e. the gold ornaments sometimes +worn round the camels' necks. When the +French made their conquest, they sent to the Tuatees +to renew their tribute to them as the actual masters<a name="page116" id="page116"></a><span class="pageno">[116]</span> +of Algeria. The answer returned was, "Come and +take the tribute!"</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—The gardens continue to attract my +evening strolls. Every one is now busy sowing +ghaseb, and I passed a half hour in working with +some cheerful labourers at the preparation of the +ground, smoothing the soil in the squares for irrigation. +They were amused at my voluntary industry. +I sleep now late of mornings after my evening +exercise in the gardens, and find myself the better +for it.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the first melons ever eaten at Mourzuk +appeared on Mr. Gagliuffi's table about this time; +they were very good.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—The Germans were preparing to start +early in the morning; they are obliged to lighten +everything, and reduce each camel load to two and +a-half, or even two cantars. The Tuaricks will not +carry more; generally their maharees are small, and +they have few stray camels. The Germans went off +in good style and great spirits. They propose to +accompany a caravan of Tanelkum Tuaricks, who +go by way of Aroukeen, leaving Ghât far on the +right. I was not able to persuade them to delay +their departure, so that we might all travel together: +but it may be expected that they will not find it so +very easy or safe to get through this country without +the special protection of those who claim authority +over it.</p> + +<p>Two or three days of gheblee succeeded—unpleasant<a name="page117" id="page117"></a><span class="pageno">[117]</span> +weather to be out in the desert. I found it bad +enough at Mourzuk—100° in the shade at four +o'clock in the afternoon. Hateetah was reported to +be on the road; so I determined to wait five or six +days for him, and thus not deviate from my original +plan.</p> + +<p>I went to visit the wife of Mohammed Es-Sfaxee, +who goes with us to Soudan as a merchant, +carrying a considerable quantity of goods +on account of M. Gagliuffi: this gentleman accompanied +me. The object of our visit was to see +whether the Sfaxee had left a sufficient quantity of +provisions with his wife to support her during his +absence. It is necessary to take such precautions +with these Moors, who often barbarously abandon +their families, without any adequate provision, for +months and even for years together. We found that +he had left dates, wheat, and a little olive-oil and +mutton-fat—the ordinary stock of all families in +Fezzan. Only a few rich people indulge in such +luxuries as coffee, sugar, meat, and liquid butter.</p> + +<p>An Arab saying: "You must always put other +people's things on your head, and your own under +your arm. Then, if there be danger of the things +falling off your head, you must raise your arm, and +let fall your own things to save those of others." I +do not know what things I shall let fall of my own; +but this I know, that during my whole residence in +Mourzuk my mind has been continually occupied in<a name="page118" id="page118"></a><span class="pageno">[118]</span> +endeavouring to save Government money. But I +have received little assistance.</p> + +<p>The weather still continues hot, with wind from +the south: however, I walked in the gardens. On +the 16th, the boat went off to the caravan; the +camels carried it very easily, to the astonishment of +the good people of Mourzuk. On the 17th, the +thermometer was at 102° in the shade—in the sun, +about 130°. We received letters in answer to those +first written from Mourzuk, and learned that all the +despatches written on the road for Tripoli had arrived +in safety. The Arabs, therefore, are not quite so bad +as they are represented.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—At length Hateetah may be said to be reported +"in sight," and we are busy preparing for +departure. The escort has arrived at Tesaoua, and +will be here on Saturday at latest. As the Germans +are still at Tuggerter, we shall proceed on the Ghât +route together, after all: it will be a tough piece of +work, whichever way performed. The heat continues +intense—from 100° to 104°, and 130° in the sun. +Cooler weather is expected in August; but at present +all the natives complain, and fevers are becoming +prevalent. In the desert we shall escape +that danger; for disease comes only in the moist +depression of the plateau on which Mourzuk stands. +We hear talk, by the way, of a fine new route—only +forty days—just opened, from Ghât to Timbuctoo, +across the deserts of Haghar. The present<a name="page119" id="page119"></a><span class="pageno">[119]</span> +Sultan of the Haghar Tuaricks is called +Ghamama.</p> + +<p>One of our party, who undertook to accompany +us to take the management of the boat, has not +proved equal to the occasion; and I have therefore +written to Tripoli, to request that two Moorish +sailors, of Jerbah if possible, should be sent up by +the direct route to Bornou. I had almost engaged +a very excellent person at Tripoli, the captain of the +vessel in which I arrived; but when he called at the +Consulate on the subject, some minor official ordered +him off with a contemptuous "Barra! barra!" and +he accordingly yielded to the solicitations of his crew +and embarked without seeing me. There is too +much of this self-sufficiency and off-handedness in +all Consulates in the Levant, where a grain of authority +is apt at once to magnify a man, in his own +estimation, into a mighty potentate. I regret my +Jerbine captain very much; he originally volunteered +to accompany us, and entered into my plans with an +enthusiasm and intelligence rare among Muslims.</p> + +<p>These small details of our expedition are interesting +to me to record, though probably many will +think them superfluous. Perhaps they will serve +to give a true idea of the magnitude of the undertaking, +and of the great responsibility which weighed +upon me, and thus prove an anticipatory excuse for +any accusation of shortcoming or dilatoriness that +may be preferred against me. I will not, however, +enter further into the business-details of the expedition—merely<a name="page120" id="page120"></a><span class="pageno">[120]</span> +observing that, among other things to +which I had to attend during my stay in Mourzuk, +were, in the first place, to collect provisions and +stores for a journey that may last two years; +secondly, to purchase presents for the princes and +other distinguished persons of the interior; and +thirdly, to provide against the casualties of the +journey, payment of salaries, &c. All these things +I had to do on my own responsibility. Among other +things, I have purchased from Mr. Gagliuffi an Arab +gun and pair of pistols, inlaid with silver and curiously +wrought, for the sum of 180 mahboubs. This +is for a present to the Sheikh of Bornou, who will +expect something pleasing to the eye as well as the +boat, which he may at first, perhaps, not appreciate +at its full value.</p> + +<p>I have already made a good many casual allusions +to our plans and arrangements; but it will be +necessary here, before our departure from the last +city that acknowledges the Ottoman authority, to +make a brief statement of our position and prospects. +Things that already appear clear to me may not +be so to others. During my former visit to Ghât, +when I travelled as a private individual, known as +"Yakōb," I made acquaintance with Hateetah, a +Tuarick Sheikh, who had assumed the title of +Consul of the English. It is the custom in that +country for every stranger on his arrival to put +himself under the protection of one of the head men, +to whom alone he makes presents, and who answers<a name="page121" id="page121"></a><span class="pageno">[121]</span> +for his safety. Mr. Gagliuffi had written to him to +come with an escort to protect our party as far as +Ghât. It appears, however, that very grand accounts +had circulated in the Sahara on the magnitude +and importance of our mission; so that it was +impossible for one Sheikh to monopolise us. Hateetah, +therefore, had come, accompanied by two sons +of Shafou, the nominal Sultan of all the Tuaricks +of Ghât. Wataitee, the elder of the two, is very +plausible, and undertakes to accompany us as far +as Aheer. It is to be observed, that the Tuaricks of +this place have hitherto never ventured to come to +Mourzuk; and it is considered wonderful that they +have come for the first time at the summons of +infidels.</p> + +<p>My first plan was, to proceed by the direct route +to Aroukeen with the Germans and the Tanelkums, +and from this place make an indispensable expedition +to Ghât. But circumstances compel me to +march direct to that place by the common road. +Our escort is to cost us dear, but it will ensure our +safety. These Ghât Tuaricks, however great they +may talk in their own country, are really very poor; +they subsist almost entirely on the custom-dues levied +on caravans. Wataitee himself said, "I am the son +of the Sultan, it is true; but I have nothing. If +I stay in my country, I do not feel my necessities +much; but if I must escort you to Aheer, then I +must be well-clothed and fed, or else the people will +say, 'Behold the son of Shafou, how poor and<a name="page122" id="page122"></a><span class="pageno">[122]</span> +miserable he is!'" Besides paying about two hundred +Spanish dollars for the escort, I have had to +feed all the people, and furnish them with tents. +They had led me to expect much more reasonable +treatment; but there is no help, and I feel that I am +not yet at the end of my troubles of this description. +With these prefatory remarks, I enter upon an account +of my departure from Mourzuk for the oasis +of Ghât.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote4" id="footnote4"></a><a href="#anchor4">[4]</a> Showers of rain are subsequently mentioned, however; and it is +a mistake to suppose that the hard blocks of fossil-salt mixed with +earth, of which the houses in the oases of Northern Africa are often +built, can be so easily melted down.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page123" id="page123"></a><span class="pageno">[123]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter8" id="chapter8"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Wars in the Interior—Anticipated Disputes—Mr. Boro of Aghadez—Our +Treatment at Mourzuk—Mustapha Bey—Start for Ghât—Row +with the Escort—Fine Weather—Leave Tesaoua—Sharaba—Travelling +in the Heat—Hateetah and the Germans—The +Camels—Snakes—Journey continued—Nature of the Country—Complete +Desert—Rain—Overtake the Caravan—Interview +with Boro—Pool of Ailouah—The Tanelkums—Halt—Birds—Bir +Engleez—Wind in the Desert—Begging Escort—Brilliant +Heavens—News from Ghât—The Pilgrims again—Bas-relief of +Talazaghe—Moved over the Desert—Mountains—Extraordinary +Pass—Central Table-land of Fezzan.</p> +</div> + +<p>Hateetah has brought stirring intelligence: the +Sultan of Bornou is at war with his brother. Ten +thousand Tuaricks of Aheer have gone against the +Walad Suleiman; and, taking advantage of the +opportunity, the Tuaricks of Timbuctoo are marching +from the other direction to fall upon their brethren +of Aheer. Quarrels of kites and crows!—Yes, to +those at a distance; but it is too much to hope that +our caravan will prove a lark's nest in some Saharan +battle-field. We must pray that a general +peace shall be proclaimed in Central Africa during +our march across the desert.<a name="page124" id="page124"></a><span class="pageno">[124]</span></p> + +<p>However, we must not be frightened by rumours, +and, indeed, are not. We pass from discussion of +this warlike intelligence to bargain with Hateetah, +who, as I have hinted, seems inclined to play the +Jew, or rather—to speak in character—the Tibboo +with us. It will cost a large sum to pass through +Ghât, and obtain an escort to Aheer. As a consolation, +we learn that we are to be persecuted by +Boro Sakontaroua, sheikh of Aghadez, who is +displeased that he has received no presents from us. +It would appear that the letters of Hassan Pasha +rather compromised us to employ him as our escort; +but I am not responsible for this, having never deviated +from the original plan of procuring an escort +from Ghât. Indeed, I wrote to that effect immediately +on my arrival in Tripoli; and it would not +do, after keeping my friends in the oasis in a turmoil +all this while, to disappoint them. The desert +has its etiquette as well as the drawing-room, +and infringements might be rather more dangerous +here.</p> + +<p>The new acting Pasha has made the Tuaricks +a present of some burnouses. This, whilst lessening +perhaps the comparative value of what we have +given, at any rate lays the chief under some obligations +to the Turks, and assists in making up a good +round sum in payment for the trouble of coming all +the way from Ghât to Mourzuk to escort us.</p> + +<p>By the way, Mr. Boro of Aghadez has been +fetched back from his encampment at Tesaoua by<a name="page125" id="page125"></a><span class="pageno">[125]</span> +a man on horseback. The business was of some +consequence, according to the notions of these people. +He had sold a female slave, and the poor woman +was now found to be <i>enceinte</i> by Boro's son, with +whom she had been living as concubine. The law +soon despatched the affair, and compelled the Sheikh +to restore the purchase-money and take back his +slave.</p> + +<p>A last observation on Mourzuk, before leaving +it behind in this Saharan navigation. All the Ottoman +authorities have treated us with attention and +respect. Mr. Gagliuffi has been hospitable, and the +people generally have proved courteous in their behaviour. +It is rare to remain so long in a place and +have so few causes of complaint. Justice, however, +compels me to say, that the British Consul sometimes +remembered too vividly that he was also a merchant, +and a Levantine merchant to boot. I am afraid he +is not quite satisfied even with the profits he has +already made out of the expedition. Is it possible, +however, for Easterns, or people who live in the +East, to look upon a Government as anything but +a milch cow? Mustapha Bey, who took a very +affectionate leave of me, is now engaged in examining +a tremendous case of peculation—something +like a defalcation of two thousand mahboubs. He +is quite bewildered for the time. The Greek doctor +came to see us off; but we started in a little confusion, +for Mr. Yusuf Moknee was drunk, as he was +nearly all the time of our stay at Mourzuk.<a name="page126" id="page126"></a><span class="pageno">[126]</span></p> + +<p>I left Mourzuk on the 25th of June, late in the +evening, and proceeding until midnight, stopped at +a little cluster of palms, with two or three inhabitants, +called Thurgan. Then rising at daylight, +and starting at once, I passed Om-el-Hamam, and +reached Tesaoua about nine in the evening. I found +that the Germans and the Tanelkums had gone on +in advance some days, but not so fast that we could +not hope to overtake them. The hurry and bustle +attendant on the preparations for starting has rendered +me rather indisposed; I was quite unwell on +the 27th. Next day, however, I could receive Hateetah +and the son of Shafou, and have a civil row +with them. I had to ask them whether they would +travel by night, and what they would agree to do if +any one fell sick. To the first question they promptly +answered "No, they would not;" but to the second, +that in case any one was very ill indeed, they would +wait a little for him, or travel in the night. I said +that this was not exactly what I wanted, and that +in case of sickness the expedition must be stopped. +They recommended me to go to Ghât, and there remain +twenty days until the great heat had passed, +allowing the Tanelkums to go on. This advice is +worth reflection: but perhaps we may not suffer so +much from the heat as I anticipate. We came to a +tolerable understanding, and it was at length agreed +that we should start on the 29th.</p> + +<p>The weather is now cool, the wind often blowing +<i>round</i> in the course of the day; it rarely blows<a name="page127" id="page127"></a><span class="pageno">[127]</span> +<i>through</i>, as at sea. On the way from Mourzuk we +had hot and cold blasts together; but now we are +out in the desert, we find the climate much more +temperate than in the city. I hope and pray that +I shall be able to bear up against the heat.</p> + +<p>What a magnificent sky we had last night!—never +did I behold the stars in greater glory. +The Scorpion was brilliant, if not fierce; and the +constellation on his right shone splendidly. At +about eight o'clock Jupiter was setting towards the +horizon like a sun!</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—We left Tesaoua at length, at three in the +afternoon. The boat and our servants had gone on +before with the Tuaricks, who prefer not travelling +in the dark, if possible. We can often start after +them in this way, and catch them up by pushing on +some hours after sunset. Our course lay south this +evening. The heavens, before the rising of the moon, +had a most luminous appearance; Jupiter was seen +only about an hour above the horizon, and the Milky +Way was very conspicuous, but at eight o'clock described +only a small segment in the heavens.</p> + +<p>We reached Sharaba at eight, and halted. This +is a sandy valley, with herbage for the camels; the +water, not very good, is a few feet from the surface, +and issues from some rocks. There are no date-palms +about the well, as reported, but a few stunted ones +are found a mile or two higher up. The surface of +the desert is broken into small mounds, crowned +with the ethel-tree.<a name="page128" id="page128"></a><span class="pageno">[128]</span></p> + +<p>Sunday, the 30th, was a cool day for the desert, +yet sufficiently hot for me. We left Sharaba at a +quarter past six in the morning, and made a good +day of nine hours. These confounded Tuaricks will +travel in the heat, and encamp in the cool. At three +in the afternoon, just as the weather was becoming +quite fresh and pleasant, we halted. The wind, +occasionally strong, blew from the north-east, whilst +our course lay south-west, across a broad valley. +The sandy ground is covered with the tholukh-tree, +which affords a grateful shade in the season. This +valley is very broad here, only one side being visible +at once to the eye.</p> + +<p>The Tuaricks are growing civil enough, and companionable. +Luckily Hateetah and the son of Shafou +do not drink coffee or tea—a saving. Hateetah, however, +is always begging; he says he will go to Aheer, +and appears to consider his escort indispensable. +According to him, the Germans, who are pushing +on ahead, run great danger. Yusuf tells me that +he is, in reality, extremely angry with my companions +for proceeding alone. He wishes, perhaps, to get a +present from them too; and swears that he knows +nobody but Yakōb (my desert name). They are not +English, he says, but French. Besides, they have +got twenty camel-loads of goods, which he will seize +if they do not pay him something. Of course this +is all harmless bluster, and means nothing. He +confesses that, being on Fezzanee ground, he has +really no claim upon caravans at all; but he is a<a name="page129" id="page129"></a><span class="pageno">[129]</span> +greedy old rascal, and would take any advantage +he could. The same gentleman says that Sakonteroua +is only a chicken in his own country—quite +powerless; if this be the case, his enmity is not of +so much consequence as I feared.</p> + +<p>The camels of the Tuaricks usually go well, and +make good hours, because they are not allowed to +eat on the road. They all march in strings, one +being tied behind the other; each string is led on +by servants or slaves. Thus, when once loaded, +there is little difficulty on the way. When seen at +a distance, they resemble a moving mass of troops, +especially when the mirage multiplies their long +files. <i>Our</i> camels, however, being all Arab camels, +cannot be made to go in strings, and are always +staring about for something whereon to browse.</p> + +<p>I begin to feel better in health. If we could but +encamp for three or four hours during the heat of +the day, I have no doubt I should get on well enough. +There was talk of serpents to-day; I saw none on +this route, however. People at Mourzuk are occasionally +bitten by lêfas and scorpions, and death +ensues often. Ammonia has been tried with success +as a cure.</p> + +<p><i>July 1st.</i>—We were astir at the encampment a +little after daybreak: but it takes usually two hours +to get off, although we have but seven camels. I +hope our people will be quicker after a little more +practice. The heat was very troublesome; and +nothing could keep the Tuaricks from going on all<a name="page130" id="page130"></a><span class="pageno">[130]</span> +through the day, for ten hours and a quarter, without +stopping. Our course was along the broad wady, +which resembles an immense plain. On the surface +of its sandy bed are scattered pebbles and blocks of +sandstone and limestone, but the former chiefly. +There was nothing to please the eye but the delicate +tints of the line of sand-hills on the left—a faint yellow, +at times mingling with the sky when very luminous; +and the round tholukh-trees, scattered like +black spots on the light sand of the valley. A little +mirage figured a dark, black lake, which, however, +sparkled with light under the trees. Few animals +were seen: a young camel, left to graze in the valley, +followed us most cheerfully this morning.</p> + +<p>We passed two or three wells in the course of +the day, at a place called Kouwana, with water near +the surface, and obtained some by scraping out the +sand; we did not, however, take any up, because it +was not very good. Caravans seldom use these wells. +No doubt there is water to be found everywhere +throughout the wady, which by a little care might +be turned into an oasis. Perhaps it was one in old +times. There is now no encouragement to cultivate +any stubborn ground.</p> + +<p><i>July 2.</i>—Two hours in getting off again! We +started at six and went on until past five in the afternoon, +following a south-west course along the same +wady, with the same low line of sand-hills on our left, +and sand and the low edge of the plateau, which the +people say extends many days' journey, on our left.<a name="page131" id="page131"></a><span class="pageno">[131]</span> +This valley is so shallow that it might almost be +considered as part of the plateau, and is, in fact, +nearly on a level with it; the temperature tells us +we are on very high land. It is cool for this season, +and the Tuaricks even complain of chilliness at +night. Sometimes I am disposed to think the hot +weather is passed, but we must take into account +the strong breeze blowing from the north-east.</p> + +<p>The broad bed of the valley is covered with +pebbles of sandstone, between which glanced a few, +very few, lizards. Rarely did any living thing cheer +our eyes as we moved along this dismal track. +Now and then gazelles, in threes and fours, went +scouring away far out of reach. One or two small +birds fluttered from stone to stone; and some crows +cawed at us from a distance. This is true Fezzan +scenery. The mirage and all its illusions cloaked +the plain in various directions, as if seeking to hide +its dull uniformity.</p> + +<p>However, this desolate region has really been of +late visited by rain, as we had been told. We +encamped towards evening near a great standing +pool, which, if the weather remain moderate, will +supply the caravans for months to come. A shower +is a vulgar occurrence in Europe, received by most +men, except agriculturists, as an annoyance. In the +desert it has all the value of a heaven-sent gift. It +is shed not periodically; but at intervals of time +and place suddenly descends in copious drenchings. +We often came upon spots which had been<a name="page132" id="page132"></a><span class="pageno">[132]</span> +ploughed up as by a torrent from the skies; and +few rocks in the Sahara are without water-marks. +The rain-water at our camping-ground has an +excellent flavour, and I drank of it eagerly.</p> + +<p>Round this pool we at length found the caravan +waiting for us to come up. The Germans and all +others were well, except the Sfaxee, troubled with +a little fever. Mourzuk is a bad place to break +down the health and spirits, and those that became +faint-hearted there would probably have persevered +had they got out into the bracing air of the desert. +The Tuaricks are very quiet. I sent word to +Hateetah that it was impossible for him to take +presents from the Germans, as it was contrary to +the orders of Government. Shafou's son is very +mild and circumspect.</p> + +<p>Here also was Mohammed Boro, and although +I had written strongly to Tripoli about him, I +considered it advisable after all, immediately on +arriving, to try and make friends with him. So +I paid him a visit, and told him that when the +Tuaricks had conducted us to Aheer we should, +of course, place ourselves under his protection, that +we might proceed to Sakkatou. I sent him, also, +some hamsah and dates. This gladdened him +much, for he is very short of provisions, and has +many servants with him; amongst the rest, two +or three female slaves, one of whom, a fat, buxom +girl, must require prodigious nourishment.</p> + +<p>When the pool of Ailouah is not filled by rain-water,<a name="page133" id="page133"></a><span class="pageno">[133]</span> +recourse is had to a well near at hand, which +supplies sufficient quantities. How important are +wells in the desert, and how one learns to mark +their existence!</p> + +<p>The valley which we have been traversing three +days from Sharaba to Ailouah is called Barjouj, +and is remarkable for the tholukh-trees, which are +scattered here and there throughout its whole extent. +We are now seven days from Ghât, and, +about the same distance from Aroukeen; but the +Tanelkums, who go slowly, make thirteen days +between this and Aroukeen. They go direct, as +we intended to do, without touching at Ghât. Our +movements are not exactly free, but we must not +seem to notice this circumstance; and if they insist +on our taking the route by the capital, in order to +have an opportunity of increased plunder, must +give in with as good grace as possible.</p> + +<p>The 2d and 3d of July we stopped at Ailouah. +Hateetah came to my tent the first day with a long +face, and said, as I foresaw, that we must all go +to Ghât, and abide the pleasure of the Tuaricks; +also that we must wait for the return of a caravan +from Aheer. I protested against this latter pretence, +and he got up and went off in a pet. Next +morning I sent word to his tent that I could not +stay at Ghât an indefinite period; that my means +would not allow me; and, therefore, that we must +still protest against this arrangement. He answered, +that he would assemble all the notables of Ghât<a name="page134" id="page134"></a><span class="pageno">[134]</span> +and ask their counsel. To this I could have no +objection, and we are friends again. But I keep +as far from the Tuaricks as I can, and do not visit +them. I find this to be the best policy. We feed +them every night, and they are apparently contented. +The weather continues cool, the wind +being always partly from the north.</p> + +<p>Many birds, crows and others, pretty large, were +seen about the wells of Ailouah; and a rival sportsman +to Dr. Overweg appeared in the person of +Mohammed et-Tunisee. He shot three small fowls +of Carthage, one of which he gave me, I promising +him a little powder in return when we came to +Ghât. We noticed a small black bird with a white +throat. But all through this desert we listen in +vain for some songster. There is no reason for +merriment in these dismal solitudes.</p> + +<p>Our people have dug a well, which the Tanelkums +promise to call "Bir Engleez,"—the English +Well. Good water was found easily, near the +surface at this station.</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—We started late, and made only a short +day; but herbage for the camels is only found hereabouts. +Our course was, as usual, south-west over +an undulating plateau, with an horizon now near, +now distant. The surface of the ground was for the +most part blackened sand, stone pebbles, and some +blocks of very bad stone. The weather continues, +fresh and pleasant. We did not feel the heat until +some time after noon; and as we halted early at<a name="page135" id="page135"></a><span class="pageno">[135]</span> +Ghamoud, suffered nothing. The wind—which we +notice as if on ship-board—now comes always from +the east, generally with a point north. It seems to +be a sort of trade-wind throughout this portion of +the desert. I begin now to read on the camel's +back, and find this a pleasing relief from the jog-trot +monotony of the movement. I am anxious to +read the whole of the Bible in Hebrew on the +camel's back. Our friends the lizards were still +glancing along the ground in the bright sunshine, +but in diminished numbers.</p> + +<p>Hateetah is always begging, and now asks for +burnouses for the Ghât Sheikhs, Khanouhen, +Jabour, Berka, and his brother. He still pretends +that the Germans must give him a present, +and that he knows no one but the English. In +compliment, and to soothe him, I said, "You must +dress in all your fine clothes at Ghât." This +awakened his vanity, and he seemed delighted with +the idea. His reply was, "You also must one +day dress in all your best clothes—one day—only +one day." I replied, "I have no fine clothes;" at +which he seemed puzzled. Turning the conversation, +he said I must change all his Tunisian piastres +into dollars; which I shall certainly not do. This +Consul of the English is a tremendously grasping +fellow.</p> + +<p>The Tanelkums all give the son of Shafou a +good character. We parted with them this morning. +They take some loads of dates for us, and<a name="page136" id="page136"></a><span class="pageno">[136]</span> +have gone to Aroukeen, where they will wait for us +six days, and then leave us; that is, if we do not +come up. They will be twelve days, they say, on +their journey. We go by a different route to +Ghât, and shall see but not enter Serdalous. This +place is now thickly inhabited by Tuaricks, and +Hateetah does not wish to come in contact with +them, for fear of exciting their curiosity and cupidity. +So he is a knowing old dog after all. Our +Tuaricks are displeased that the Germans have +encamped so far from us this evening. The ground +is a narrow slip of wady stretching east and west, +almost on a level with the plateau. There is a +little hasheesh (grass), with two or three young +tholukh-trees. Venus shone with uncommon +splendour this evening, eclipsing all the majesty +of Jupiter. We are looking out for the Southern +Cross, and think we see it just emerging above the +horizon ahead. In the day, the heavens have of +late been hazy.</p> + +<p>They tell us, that on leaving Ghât we shall +<i>descend</i> to Soudan; yet we can not have reached +very high ground. We may soon likewise expect +to feel the influence of the Soudan rains, and find +the atmosphere much cooler in consequence. How +the days are shortening now, and how grateful +darkness gradually expands its dominions over this +arid, scorching waste, as we move south!</p> + +<p>On Friday the 5th we only advanced two hours, +to a place called Talazaghee,—a small picturesque<a name="page137" id="page137"></a><span class="pageno">[137]</span> +wady, where, during the season of rain, there are +always two or three pools of good water; there is +also now a little herbage for the camels. During +our ride we met a small slave caravan, and learned +the important intelligence that there are several +people of the Sultan En-Noor of Aheer at present +at Ghât with slaves. This will be useful to us. I +wrote to my wife and others by this opportunity, +and trust the missives will reach their destination. +The weather is cool and pleasant to-day; and we +are led to hope that the great heat of summer is +already past. The wind followed exactly behind +us as we pursued our south-west course. On +arriving we found, rather to our surprise, the +pilgrim caravan, and our old friend Abd-el-Kader. +They have been some time reposing in Wady +Gharby collecting provisions, and, I imagine, passing +their leisure hours with the Fezzanee ladies, which +they could not very well do in Mourzuk. The morality +of these people is easy enough, and no doubt +the pilgrimage covers a multitude of sins.</p> + +<p>Talazaghee is remarkable for some bas-reliefs +cut on the naked sandstone rocks of the wady, in +a very peculiar style; the principal tableau, if I +may so call it, about four feet by three in size, is a +battle between two persons, one having a bird's +head, and the other a bullock's, with a bullock +between them taking part in the fray. Each +person is holding a shield or bow. The sculptures +are mere outline, but deeply graved and well<a name="page138" id="page138"></a><span class="pageno">[138]</span> +shaped. There are several other tableaux, representing +animals, but chiefly bullocks. This would +seem to intimate, that in the days when these forms +of animals were chiselled bullocks were the animals +employed for the transport of men and merchandise +over the desert. No camels occur, as in other +tablets. These sculptures are very properly said +by our escort to be neither Arab nor Tuarick, +but belong to the people that existed before these +races. The principal tableau has a very Egyptian +look about it; the oxen are well formed, and would +do credit to a modern artist. There is one bas-relief +figure of an ox with its neck in a circle, as if +representing some of the games of the Circus. The +other animals most distinctly seen are ostriches; +the rocks around are, besides, covered with Tuarick +characters, but nothing interesting.</p> + +<p>We started late on the 6th, for the Tuaricks +had allowed their camels to stray, and we waited +some time for them: however, we were obliged, +after all, to start without them, and having made +five hours and a half halted. Our course had lain +over the plateau, which about half way became +broken up into valleys. One of these, called Anan +Haghaneen, led us into the pleasant and picturesque +wady of Mana Samatanee, where only +in this part of the route can be found herbage +for camels. There are also a few tholukh-trees. +What a desolate region is all this, despite the +little spots of vegetation! There are no signs of<a name="page139" id="page139"></a><span class="pageno">[139]</span> +animal life, except traces of the wadan. For two +days, they tell us, we are to have little or no water. +Now and then we pass desert mosques,—square, +or circular, or cross-shaped walls of stone, some +with two entrances, built for the devotion of chance +passengers. The mountains on the east are called +El Magheelaghen. To-day we carried my trunk +with the money. Yusuf had previously given it in +charge to a camel-driver, and the Tuaricks were +always uneasy, asking to see if all were right. +Europeans would probably have done the same +under similar circumstances.</p> + +<p>On the 7th we made a good day of about eleven +hours, continuing during the first three in shallow +wadys, down one of which we had a distant view +of the plain of Serdalous, on the north-west. Then +came the breaking up of the great plateau of +Fezzan, and we entered a pass which leads down +into the subjacent Sahara, and runs west with +an inclination to the south. This is, perhaps, one of +the most extraordinary natural features I have ever +beheld. It seems to have been purposely cut out of +the solid rock for the use of man, and reminds one +at first of a railway excavation. As we advance it +assumes the form of a cave, slightly open at top,—narrow, +winding, and furnished with seats on either +hand. A dim light comes from above. Only one +part was difficult for the boat. Now and then +the pass became quite a tunnel, but the concave +roof is high enough for any camel to pass. On the<a name="page140" id="page140"></a><span class="pageno">[140]</span> +sides, here and there, were Tuarick inscriptions; +but there was nothing remarkable revealed by this +admirable geological section. It was mostly sandstone +for the upper strata, with narrow streaks of +marl and chalk. Some slate was observed, and frequently +our way lay over beds of red clay. An +agreeable surprise awaited us occasionally, in the +shape of little openings containing groups of the +tholukh; but the general aspect of the pass was +horrible and desolate, and we eagerly pushed on +towards the end. There was nothing, apparently, +to support life; but we found and caught a young +fox: how the little wretch procured food was a +mystery which our guides could not explain. However, +life no doubt had its joys for him, and we let +him loose in the plain below. I also picked up a +dead bird, of a species common in the desert, with +white head or cap, and white tail, except the upper +feathers; all the rest, legs and bill, black. It is +about the size of a lark, but has a head like a blackbird. +We supposed the one found had died from +want of water, though it may have been killed by +the mother of the young fox.</p> + +<p>On emerging from the pass at length we found +a considerable change of level, and having advanced +a little way turned back and obtained a splendid +view of the walls of the plateau, which stretched on +both sides above the plain, and thrust out lofty +bluff promontories, as into the sea. The upper lines +of some of them were perfectly straight, as if levelled<a name="page141" id="page141"></a><span class="pageno">[141]</span> +by artificial means. We came to a solitary rock on +the plain, containing excavations that seemed to be +the work of men. Here, we were told, Dr. Oudney +once stopped and breakfasted.</p> + +<p>We have now a pretty correct idea of the great +central table-land of Fezzan. It is an elevation, not +quite clearly marked to the eye on some of its +northern approaches, but dropping sheer to the +plain at other parts. Mourzuk is situated in a +sandy depression on its surface, which would +probably be turned into a salt lake if there were +sufficient rain. The limits of the hollow, as of +that of many others—Wady Atbah for example—are +not noticed by the traveller. Whether he +approaches or leaves Mourzuk, he seems still to be +traversing a level plain, and only finds his mistake +by noticing the change in the nature of the ground, +the presence of marshes, of green vegetation, and of +a heavy, stifling atmosphere.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page142" id="page142"></a><span class="pageno">[142]</span></p> + + +<h2><a name="chapter9" id="chapter9"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Plain of Taeeta—Fezzan Boundary—Fossils—Tuarick Behaviour—Valley +of Tabea—Observations—Fasting—Tuarick Habits—Scorpions +and Locusts—Visitors—Heat—Roads—Hot Wind—Pass +of Abulaghlagh—The Palace of Demons—Wheat hid in +the Desert—Land of Demons—Kasar Janoon—A dear Camel—Visit +to the Kasar—Perilous Adventure of Dr. Barth.</p> +</div> + +<p>On the 8th we pursued our course over the monotonous +undulating plain of Taeeta, to which we had +descended. It was a little hotter, because lower +than yesterday; and the country is more parched, +more arid, more desolate, than ever. No herbage +for camels is found in these parts, and we had been +compelled to carry some with us from Wady Haghaneen, +and to wake up with dates, of which the +camels ate voraciously as a treat. Beetles and +lizards were the only living things we saw.</p> + +<p>Next day, the 9th, we rose before sunrise and +made a good day of nine hours, still over the same<a name="page143" id="page143"></a><span class="pageno">[143]</span> +plain of Taeeta. About three hours before we +reached the well of Tabea we crossed the real +boundaries of the Fezzanee territory, although the +Tuaricks seem to claim the pass on the mountains +as their own. The weather was hot, there being +no wind. On these occasions the afternoons are +very oppressive, and the sun causes his power to be +unpleasantly felt until an hour before sunset.</p> + +<p>From the plain to-day we had a view of the +Ghât mountains, which seem at a distance to present +different forms and characters from the high +lands on the edge of the plateau of Mourzuk. The +bed of the undulating plain of Taeeta is covered +with pebbles and blocks, of both sand and limestone. +Yesterday I picked up some fossils of the star-fish—the +fixed star-fish, having branches by which it holds +to the bottom of the sea. Some fossils of vegetables +were also found. Two or three hours before +reaching the well we descended rapidly into a broad, +deep wady, where were the recent marks of a waterflow. +The camels all went well, ours faster than +the Targhee; but these latter, not being allowed to +stray, always make, as a rule, better and more regular +journeys.</p> + +<p>The Tuaricks themselves are getting more civil. +Hateetah already enters into the idea of a treaty of +amity and commerce: he says he will fix the +amount the English merchants are to pay when +they attend the mart of Ghât. The son of Shafou +is always represented as a very good fellow; he is<a name="page144" id="page144"></a><span class="pageno">[144]</span> +growing more and more civil and companionable. +This evening I gave him a small pair of good +scissors, which much delighted him. As for the +other Tuaricks, Hateetah excepted, I make it a rule +to refuse what they ask, otherwise I should be +annoyed every day with their importunities. Hateetah +says we must lodge at Ghât with Haj Ahmed, +the governor, outside of the town, to be out of +the way of the begging Tuaricks. He adds, +"Always keep the door shut, and when any one +calls out for permission to enter say 'Babo,'—(No +one at home!)"</p> + +<p>The Germans, like myself, find the fatigue too +great to enable them to continue their observations +and writings with regularity. We must not be +extravagant of our health and strength at this early +period of our expedition.</p> + +<p>The valley of Tabea is a pleasant place, having +herbage for the camels in abundance, as is the case +wherever the ethel-tree is found. There are +several wells with water near the surface, and +others might no doubt be dug all over the wady. +Our encampment looked picturesque this evening. +It is the eve of Ramadhan, and our people fired +shots here and there to celebrate the occasion.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—A halt was arranged for this day. I +took the opportunity to wash and change all my +clothes, which I do every three or four days, if possible. +Mr. Hateetah, however, would not allow me +to carry on my domestic arrangements in peace. He<a name="page145" id="page145"></a><span class="pageno">[145]</span> +came grumbling as usual, wanting scissors, razors, +&c. I cannot fill this craving abyss to the brim. +Our people fast to-day; but to-morrow, probably, +they will not, as the law does not require them to +do so when actually travelling.</p> + +<p>I have left Doctors Barth and Overweg to take +the compass-direction of this route. To do this +when with them would be useless for me, but when +I leave them I must then do all the work I can. +Now, it would be only accumulating on my shoulders +useless labour. Besides, they will always do this +kind of thing much better than myself. The same +observation applies to the thermometer. It would +be well, however, if I practised taking observations +with them. But we are all sufficiently worked, and +can assist one another but little in these matters.</p> + +<p>The wind has been variable for the last three +days,—in the evening, generally N.E. In the afternoon +it begins to move round, until it blows from +all the points of the compass. To-day we have hot +wind or gusts of wind. It has been very hot, 105° +Fahrenheit under the tent.</p> + +<p>Our people suffer much from their fasting. But +the Tuaricks do not fast, and seem to look with scorn +upon the Moors and blacks for doing so. Yusuf +says <i>he</i> shall not fast when he in <i>en route</i>. A camel +has broken down on the road, and it is found necessary to +kill it, to prevent its dying. Hateetah has +given out his decree for its sale. The Tuaricks are +to purchase half and we half of the carcase, at ten<a name="page146" id="page146"></a><span class="pageno">[146]</span> +reals, or fifty Tunisian piastres. Of our five reals +the Germans take one and a half, and the Sfaxee +a half. This will make it lighter for me. Our +people made a regular feast of the camel's flesh, +some of them sitting up and gorging till midnight. +Their noise did not disturb me, for I had slept a +good deal in the day.</p> + +<p>I had done very little indeed but sleep and lie +down. We felt the heat severely at noon. A gust +of hot wind nearly carried away our tent.</p> + +<p>The Tuaricks use spoons, and do not eat with +their hands like the Arabs and Turks; but the latter +pretend that the Tuaricks never wash their hands +at all, whilst they, before and after eating, always +take this precaution. In saluting, the Tuaricks do +not spread out the fingers much when they raise +their hand, but present the palm and fingers outstretched +to you. One of these gentlemen, whom I +call the noisy one, has got a poor little slave-boy, +about seven years of age, who works like a man, and +goes quite naked.</p> + +<p>To-day I found a young scorpion in the canvass-case +of my writing-desk; he cocked his tail in a +hostile attitude, as if daring any one to touch him. +In his tail seems to be all his power, and so of all +the scorpion host. Yesterday was taken a locust: +this destructive insect is not bred in the desert. In +this bare and thirsty region there is nothing for the +young ones to eat, and the old ones likewise would +soon perish in the Sahara. They are bred in the<a name="page147" id="page147"></a><span class="pageno">[147]</span> +cultivated fields near the desert, or in the fertile +lands of the coast, as in the neighbourhood of Mogador, +where millions of the young have been seen, +like so many small green buds of trees.</p> + +<p>Dr. Overweg made an excursion to the Ghât +mountains, or rather the smaller hills or offshoots +from the range. He found them sandstone, but very +singularly formed or broken into huge blocks—some +like the masses which I saw on the route +from Ghadamez to Ghât, with a very narrow base, +on which they might turn as on a pivot.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—We stopped here another day. We were +to have started in the afternoon, but the Tuaricks +had some visitors come to see them, and detained us +for their own comfort and amusement. I am not +sorry for it, as we have had a tremendous gheblee. +All the day I felt it extremely hot, and so have all +the people. I was obliged to lie down on the floor +of my tent nearly all day; but I have so arranged +my table that I put my head under it, which gives +additional and most important protection from the +sun. All these little expedients must be resorted to +in travelling over the desert, and may sometimes +save a man's life. It is surprising what protection a +piece of cloth or linen, or a piece of board, in addition +to the tent, will give against the intensity of the +sun's fierce rays. The Moors and blacks of the +coast seem to suffer as much as the Europeans.</p> + +<p>There are two ways from this wady to Ghât—a +difficult, and an easy but longer one. I and the<a name="page148" id="page148"></a><span class="pageno">[148]</span> +Germans go, with Hateetah and Shafou, the difficult +one; and we leave the heavy luggage and the caravan +to go the easy route. This, at least, is the +arrangement talked of this evening. The morrow +may bring something new.</p> + +<p>The Tuaricks who arrived to-day expected a +supper: Hateetah sent to the Germans to find them +one; the Germans referred them to Moknee; and +we provided.</p> + +<p>We must take care we do not have too many +customers of this sort, or we shall never get up to +Aheer with the present stock of provisions.</p> + +<p>To call the wind under which we are suffering +<i>gheblee</i>, is a perfect misnomer; for the hot wind of +to-day and yesterday came directly from the <i>north</i>, +"Bahree!" As Yusuf said, however, when I told him +where the wind was from: "Where now is the sea? +It is a long way from the sea."</p> + +<p>The thermometer was 106° Fahrenheit in the +shade of the ethel to-day. We shall rarely have it +much hotter than this. In Bornou there is rarely +more than 104° in the shade.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Saturday.<a name="anchor5" id="anchor5"></a><a href="#footnote5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> The morning is advancing +and the Tuaricks are not yet moving. These Azgher +are sad lazy dogs. It appears they have changed +their minds, and we are all to go the long and easy +way. The sun is rising in haze with a little wind.<a name="page149" id="page149"></a><span class="pageno">[149]</span> +The heavens now are frequently concealed by vapour. +Yesterday we had clouds in abundance, often shrouding +the sun—a wonder for the desert in this season!</p> + +<p>We started rather late, about seven A.M., but +made a long day, continuing till sunset, or twelve +hours. Our course was north-north-west for three +or four hours, on the plain towards Serdalous, and +then entered the pass of Abulaghlagh; which, though +represented as plain and smooth as the hand by +Hateetah, was sufficiently difficult and rocky for the +boat-laden camels. The beginning of the pass was +remarkable for a number of curiously-formed sandstone +rocks, several of them swinging or resting on +a small base like a pivot, and others cleft asunder, +as straightly and clearly as if cut by a knife. Our +course along the pass was west, but when well +through it we turned round southwards towards +Ghât.</p> + +<p>Immediately on clearing the pass we saw the +celebrated Kasar Janoon, or Palace of the Demons; +of and concerning which the people had been talking +all day: we had then the range of hills or +mountains to our left, and some sand-hills on our +right. Dr. Overweg at once discovered we were in +a new region, or zone. The mountains on the left +are composed of slate-marl, and not sandstone, as +before stated by myself and Dr. Oudney. Overweg +considers them of a very peculiar character +and is delighted with their castle-like and battlemented +shapes. But we shall have much to say of<a name="page150" id="page150"></a><span class="pageno">[150]</span> +these marl-slate mountains, coloured so beautifully, +and looking nobly to the eye.</p> + +<p>Before entering the pass of Abulaghlagh, Hateetah +hid some of his wheat under the rocks to +lighten his camels. I joked him, and told him I +knew his hiding-place, and would return and fetch +the wheat. All over these hills things are hidden, +and often money, which is sometimes lost for ever, +the owner dying without pointing out his hiding-place. +There was no herbage for camels to-night, +but we had brought a little hasheesh with us. A +strong wind set in towards evening and continued +nearly all night, preventing us from sleeping. We +were much exhausted by our day's march, and so +were all our animals; they suffer much from these +long stretches. We gave them dates, as we give +horses corn.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—We rose before daylight, and got off by +sunrise, continuing till about two hours after noon. +The wind was so exceedingly strong, blowing from +the south-east, that we did not feel the heat of the +sun. But now and then we had strong gusts of +hot wind, like the breath of a furnace. I tied a +thin dark cotton handkerchief over my eyes, and +found great relief.</p> + +<p>Our course is now south, over a high sandy +plain. We are at length fairly in the Land of Demons, +as the country of the Ghât Tuaricks is called +by themselves. All around, the mountains take castellated +forms, and high over all rises the Kasar<a name="page151" id="page151"></a><span class="pageno">[151]</span> +Janoon, Palace or Citadel of the Ginn: a huge +square mass of rock, said to be a day in circuit, and +bristling with turret-pinnacles, some of which must +be seven hundred feet in height. Nothing but its +magnitude can convince the eye at a distance that +it is not a work raised by human hands, and shattered +by time or warfare. Its vast disrupted +walls tower gigantically over the plain. Here, as +in another Pandemonium, the spirits of the desert +collect from places distant thousands of miles, for +the purpose of debate or prayer. It is a mosque as +well as a hall of council, and a thesaurus to boot, +for unimaginable treasures are buried in its caverns. +Poor people love to forge wealthy neighbours for +themselves. No Tuarick will venture to explore +these Titanic dwellings, for, according to old compact, +the tribes of all these parts have agreed to +abstain from impertinent curiosity, on condition of +receiving advice and assistance from the spirit-inhabitants +of their country. In my former visit I nearly +lost my life in an attempt to explore it and was supposed +to have been misled by mocking-spirits: little +did I think that this superstition was about to receive +another confirmation.</p> + +<p>The Kasar Janoon, and all the mountains around, +were wrapped this day in haze, but loomed gigantically +through. We proceeded, still in sight of +this enchanted castle, over the plain, which was +perfectly bare and arid, until we arrived at Wady +Atoulah, where we found the beneficent ethel and<a name="page152" id="page152"></a><span class="pageno">[152]</span> +some good pickings for the camels. Not pausing +long here, we proceeded another hour, and encamped +in Wady Tahala, just in front of the imposing +Kasar, and full in view of the mountains of Wareerat +to the east.</p> + +<p>The camels suffered much during the day's march. +The Tuaricks had another knocked up, and we two,—that +of the blacks and one which I had purchased +of Mr. Gagliuffi. The latter could not bring his +load, and we were obliged to relieve him of all his +burden; a great disappointment to me, for I bought +the animal as a strong one, to go up to Soudan. It +was a dear bargain, in comparison with the other +camels which I purchased in Mourzuk,—costing +thirty-eight mahboubs and a half. I must recover +the money, and cannot allow Government to lose +it. All our other camels came on well, even those +which cost me much less. The other is still behind +whilst I write: it is an old, worn-out, black Egyptian +camel, and cost only eighteen dollars.</p> + +<p>I did not feel so much exhausted to-day as usual. +I always take tea and coffee on encamping, which +restores my senses at least, and does me much good +generally. I dissolve mastic with the water during +the hot hours, and to-day drank at least three pints, +but ate little.</p> + +<p>The well is east from our encampment two hours, +and under the mountains. There is encamped the +Sfaxee, who went by the more difficult route, to +arrive at Ghât before us; but it seems he will be<a name="page153" id="page153"></a><span class="pageno">[153]</span> +disappointed. He came by the pass by which I +returned formerly from Ghât to Mourzuk,—certainly +too difficult and narrow for the transport of +the boat.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—I rose early, and marched about three +hours and a half to the well, under the Kasar +Janoon; that is to say, four or five miles along the +base of the eastern wall of the Kasar. But this +day's adventures deserve more particular chronicle.</p> + +<p>The Germans had determined to go and examine +the Kasar, and were about to start just as I came +out of my tent. They had had some altercation with +Hateetah, because, partly for superstitious reasons, +he would not give them a guide, and they had made +up their minds to undertake the exploration alone. +I saw Dr. Barth going off somewhat stiffly by himself; +Dr. Overweg came to where I was standing, +and asked Amankee, my Soudan servant, about the +well near the Kasar, and then also went off. He +said to me, "I shall boil the water on the highest +point, and then go along the top to the other end." +He was taking some points of the Kasar with the +compass, and I observed to him, "Take the eastern +point." Then he started. Yusuf called out after +him, "Take a camel with you, it is very distant." +Distressed at seeing them go alone, I told Amankee +that if he would follow I would give him a present. +He agreed, upon the condition that he should not +be expected to ascent the Kasar; for he feared the<a name="page154" id="page154"></a><span class="pageno">[154]</span> +Janoon. We then gave him dates, biscuits, and a +skin of water, and he started after Dr. Overweg. +I confess I had my fears about them. On arriving +near the well, we pitched tent near an immense +spreading old ethel, which afforded us some shade. +I watched the changing aspect of the Kasar nearly +all the time of our three hours' ride; and could not +help thinking that the more it was examined the +more marvellous did it appear. I then looked out +to recognise the place where I was lost four years +ago, and at last I thought I could distinguish the +locality. The day wore on. It blew gales of hot +wind. No Germans appeared, although it had +been told them that we should only stop during the +hot hours of the day. However, I anticipated that +they would not arrive before sunset. Hateetah sent +word, that as there was little water he should not +move on till to-morrow. This was good news for +the Germans.</p> + +<p>At last, about five o'clock P.M., Dr. Overweg +appeared. He had experienced great thirst and +fatigue; but, having the assistance of Amankee, he +got back safe. He at once confessed his fears for +Dr. Barth. I began to think this gentleman must +either have gone to Ghât, or that some accident had +befallen him. Soon, indeed, we began to have +gloomy apprehensions, and to talk seriously of a +search. The Tuaricks were not very civil, and +Hateetah threw all the responsibility of the safety of<a name="page155" id="page155"></a><span class="pageno">[155]</span> +my fellow-travellers on me. Dr. Overweg and +several people went out in search of Dr. Barth just +before sunset.</p> + +<p>Night closed in; no appearance of our friend. +I hoisted a lamp on the top of the ethel, and +made large fires as the sun went down, in hopes +that their glare might be seen at a distance from +the Kasar. Our servants returned without Dr. +Overweg. He had promised to be back by sunset, +and I began to fear some accident had befallen +him likewise.</p> + +<p>The evening grew late, and Hateetah came to me, +in a very nervous state, to inquire after the Germans. +I endeavoured to compose him by telling him the +responsibility was on us, and not on him. Dr. +Overweg returned at midnight. He had thrown +into the desert various pieces of paper, on which +was written the direction of our encampment from +the Kasar. We were very uneasy, and slept little, +as may be imagined; but before we retired for the +night Hateetah arranged a general search for the +morning.</p> + +<p>Next morning, accordingly, at daybreak (16th), +the search was commenced, by two camels scouring +the environs of the desert. Dr. Overweg went with +one of the parties, but returned at noon, bringing no +news of Dr. Barth. Amankee with his party had, +however, seen his footsteps towards the north. +This was most important, as it directed our attention +that way, and we thought no more of his having<a name="page156" id="page156"></a><span class="pageno">[156]</span> +gone to Ghât. We now calculated that our companion +had been twenty-four hours without a drop +of water, a gale of hot wind blowing all the time! +Dr. Overweg proposed to me that we should offer +a considerable reward, as the last effort. He +mentioned twenty, but I increased the sum to +fifty dollars. This set them all to work, and a +Tuarick with a maharee volunteered to search. +I found it necessary, however, to give him two +dollars for going, besides the proffered reward; +he left at two P.M., and all the people were sent off +by Hateetah a couple of hours after him.</p> + +<p>This was a dreadfully exciting day. I confess, +that as the afternoon wore on I had given up nearly +all hope, and continued the search merely as a matter +of duty. Few will be able to imagine the anguish +of losing a friend under such circumstances +in the wide desert, where you may for ever remain +uncertain how he came by his death, whether by the +spear of a bandit, the claws of a wild beast, or by +that still more deadly enemy, thirst. Just before +sunset I was preparing fresh fires as a last resort, +when I saw one of our blacks, the little Mahadee, +running eagerly towards the encampment. Good +news was in his very step. I hastened to meet him. +He brought the joyful intelligence that Dr. Barth +had been found, still alive, and even able to speak! +The Tuarick whom I had despatched, in scouring +the country with his maharee, had found him about +eight miles from the camp, lying on the ground,<a name="page157" id="page157"></a><span class="pageno">[157]</span> +unable to move. For twenty-four hours he had +remained in the same position, perfectly exhausted +with heat and fatigue. Our fires had not been unmarked +by him, but they only served to show that +we were doing our best to find him. He could not +move a step towards them. On seeing his deliverers, +he could just muster strength to say, "Water, water!" +He had finished the small supply he had taken +with him the day before at noon, and had from that +time suffered the most horrible tortures from thirst. +He had even drunk his own blood! Twenty-eight +hours, without water in the Sahara! Our people +could scarcely at first credit that he was alive; for +their saying is, that no one can live more than +twelve hours when lost in the desert during the +heats of summer.</p> + +<p>Dr. Barth was now brought back to the camp. +He had still a supply of biscuit and dates with +him; but eating only aggravates the torture of +thirst. Moist food is fitter to carry on such occasions. +We found rum very useful in restoring his +health.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—The Doctor, being of robust constitution, +was well enough this day to mount his camel, and +proceed with the caravan. We advanced about +seven hours, and then encamped. To-morrow, a +ride of a couple of hours will take us into Ghât.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote5" id="footnote5"></a><a href="#anchor5">[5]</a> The 12th is missed, and Dr. Richardson notes in his journal +that the date is to be rectified backwards; but he does not say where +the rectification is to begin—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page158" id="page158"></a><span class="pageno">[158]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter10" id="chapter10"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Approach Ghât—Description of the Town—The Oasis—Reminiscences +of a former Visit—Azgher Tuaricks—The Governor—Political +Authority—The Sheikhs—Protection of Strangers—The +Litham—Business—Reception—Meetings of Sheikhs—Disputes—Tax +on liberated Slaves—Extortion practised on us—Discussion +on the Treaty—Scramble for Presents—Haj +Ahmed disinterested—Hateetah plays double—More Presents +and further Annoyances—Mahommed Kafa—Escort of Kailouees—A +Visit from Ouweek and the Bandit of Ghadamez—Observations +on the Treaty—Collection of Dialogues—The +Great Exhibition.</p> +</div> + +<p>We were up early on the morning of the 18th, and +prepared to make our official approach to the town +of Ghât, which was now distant only two hours. I +had already visited the place, and was familiar with +its aspect; but must introduce a few words of description +for the sake of the reader of the present +narrative. Ghât is situated on the spur of a lofty +hill, which overlooks it from the north. It is surrounded +by miserable walls not more than ten feet +high, pierced by six weak gates. The houses are +not whitewashed, like those of Moorish towns, but +retain the dirty hue of the unburnt brick and mud +with which they are built. A single minaret worthy<a name="page159" id="page159"></a><span class="pageno">[159]</span> +the name, and one large building used as a general +lodging-house, rise above the flat roofs of the rest +of the town. Some few palm-trees bend gracefully +here and there; but, in general, the groves of the +oasis are a little distant from the walls. There is a +suburb of some fifty houses of stone and mud; and +a number of huts, made of straw and palm-branches. +The whole oasis is not more than three miles in +extent; the gardens produce only a little wheat, +barley, and ghaseb, with some few kinds of fruit. +Good water is supplied by wells; but all the palm +vegetation is stunted.</p> + +<p>From the hill that overlooks the town, a fine +view is to be obtained of the little oasis and the vast +extent of desert that encircles it on every side. Far +to the south wave in the air the summits of the +palm-groves of Berket, on the way to Aheer. To +the west, hills and ridges succeed one another to +the horizon; and to the east, above a line of glittering +sand-hills, rises the unbroken wall of the Wareerat +range—the rampart thrown up by the demons to +protect their favourite Tuaricks from the inroads of +the conqueror. The contrast of the bright green of +the oasis with the stony waste beyond is striking; +and when the sun sheds its bright rays over the +scene, it may really be called beautiful.</p> + +<p>But these are reminiscences. This day, as soon +as we saw the town appearing over the trees +between the rocks, we hailed it with delight; not, +however, as the termination, but as the starting-point<a name="page160" id="page160"></a><span class="pageno">[160]</span> +of a journey. Beyond, southward, everything +to us was unknown, and, we believed, to all +Europeans. Every step further, then, promised to +be a discovery. Should we be allowed to proceed unmolested? +Would no obstacle, natural or artificial, +intervene? Much would depend on our reception +in Ghât. On my former visit I had not, on the +whole, reason to complain of the Sheikhs of the +Tuaricks, whose chief place this is. I remembered +the venerable Shafou, the dashing Khanouhen, +with Jabour, and all the others, from whom I had +received what might be called kindness. Hateetah, +it is true, had hitherto somewhat disappointed me; +and I know that great expectation had been already +aroused in this little secluded territory of profit to +be made out of my mission. Whether I should be +able to meet all demands was a serious question +with me. I am pleased to say that the Governor's +son came out to meet us, and conduct us to the +housed of his father, who, with several of the notables +of Ghât, were assembled, and gave us, in truth, a +cordial reception.</p> + +<p>It may be as well to remind the reader that +Ghât is a small town which has grown up in the +territory of the Azgher Tuaricks, in consequence +of the convenience of the place as a station for the +caravans from Soudan Proper, and other points of +Central Africa. It is inhabited principally by +people of Moorish origin, but mixed and known as +Ghâteen. Haj Ahmed, the governor, is also a<a name="page161" id="page161"></a><span class="pageno">[161]</span> +Moor, born at Tuat. He is a marabout, or saint, +but is looked up to by the people for the settlement +of all municipal concerns. The Ghâteen +derive their subsistence almost entirely from the +caravans, although their little oasis is not unfertile.</p> + +<p>But the political authority of the country resides +entirely in the hands of the Azgher Tuaricks. +Azgher is the name of the tribe or nation, and +Tuarick is a generic title, which scarcely implies +even community of origin, assumed by nearly all +the wandering people of the Sahara. There are +the Haghar Tuaricks, to the west of Ghât and +south-west towards Timbuctoo; and the corresponding +people of Aheer are called the Kailouee Tuaricks. +At Timbuctoo itself are found the Sorghau +Tuaricks.</p> + +<p>The chief of the Tuaricks of Ghât is nominally +the venerable Shafou, whose son came with Hateetah +to escort me from Mourzuk; but the virtual +sultanship resides in Khanouhen, the heir-apparent, +or son of Shafou's sister: for this is the order of +succession in Ghât. Every Tuarick, however, is +in some sort a chief, and more or less influence is +acquired by age or personal qualities. The principal +men have divided the sources of emolument +which the peculiar position of their country supplies +them with. Hateetah claims to afford protection to +all private English travellers, and to receive presents +from them; another patronises the inhabitants +of Tripoli, a third those of Soudan, and so on.<a name="page162" id="page162"></a><span class="pageno">[162]</span> +This arrangement enables a visitor to the place to +calculate with some certainty about the amount of +obligation he incurs. All the Tuaricks are easily +distinguished by their habit of wearing a litham, +or muffler, with which they conceal their mouths +and all the lower part of their face. This custom +gives them a strangely mysterious appearance.</p> + +<p>The house of Haj Ahmed, the governor, to +which we were conducted, is situated three parts of +a mile from the town, which I did not enter during +my stay. It would not have done to expose myself +to the familiar impudence of the people, who had +known me during my visit under very different circumstances. +Besides, my time was fully taken up +with business matters; so fully, that I scarcely had +time even to write one or two brief despatches to +Government.</p> + +<p>On the morning of our arrival at Ghât all +seemed to promise well. The Governor welcomed +us with hospitality, and his slaves unloaded our +camels, and quickly conducted us to our apartments. +At noon, although it was Ramadhan time, we received +some dishes of meat, with figs, grapes, and +molasses—really a sumptuous repast. We were +not allowed to go out the first day.</p> + +<p>The next morning there was a general meeting +of the Sheikhs and people of the town in our apartments; +and from the turn affairs began to take, we +found it necessary to despatch a courier to Aroukeen, +to beg the Tanelkums to wait a few days for us at<a name="page163" id="page163"></a><span class="pageno">[163]</span> +that place. During the meeting began the first +prevarication of the Tuaricks. The son of Shafou +said that he did not agree to conduct us to Aheer—an +assertion we contradicted strongly. At length +he exclaimed: "Although I did not agree to this, I +will nevertheless conduct you,"—making a new +favour of an old bargain.</p> + +<p>When the meeting separated, there was another +affair brought on the carpet by Hateetah and +Waled Shafou. They boldly demanded seventy +reals, or small dollars of Ghât, for the passage of +our liberated blacks to Soudan. I declared that I +would not give them a real, and told them to seize +the people if they chose. Hateetah upon this +went off in a rage, and Waled Shafou stayed +behind, pretending to seize our servants. We did +not take any notice of him, and at last he likewise +departed. Mr. Gagliuffi had not been able to arrange +this affair at Mourzuk,—it being left in this position, +"that they (Hateetah and Shafou) would say +nothing about the matter; but that if others did, we +should pay a little." The man who has a right to +this tribute from freed blacks is now absent from +Ghât, and any claim ought to be made in his name +by his representatives. When the Governor heard +of this affair, he sent to tell us "to arrange the +matter, and give something to these dogs of Tuaricks;" +at the same time expressing his sorrow for +such a shameful demand: and shameful it was, +because we had already paid for ourselves and our<a name="page164" id="page164"></a><span class="pageno">[164]</span> +servants three hundred reals. Besides this sum, +Hateetah and Waled Shafou had each of them +received a present of about a hundred mahboubs. +Finally my friend, Haj Ibrahim, the merchant, +undertook to arrange this business, and paid on our +account twenty-eight reals more for our servants.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 20th there was another +general meeting, and I presented the treaty for consideration. +A long discussion followed, but I at +first misunderstood the conclusion to which the +Sheikhs came. However, the following day we +had a regular debate, the result of which was that +the Sheikhs and heads of the town declared they +could not come to a final arrangement until the +winter souk (market), when all the notables would +be assembled.</p> + +<p>A great deal of unpleasant discussion occurred +during all these meetings, and I had to fight my way +step by step. The Shereef was first on my side, but +as I had promised him a present only if the treaty +were signed, and as he saw that this would not take +place, he turned round and became my active enemy. +However, it was out of his power to do me much +harm. The greater part of the last days of my +stay were spent in agitation about the presents for +Jabour, Khanouhen, Berka, and others, some of +whom were absent. I said that nothing could be +given until the Sheikhs and the people of Ghât did +something for the Queen—for the presents were +the Queen's presents. Finally, the day before our<a name="page165" id="page165"></a><span class="pageno">[165]</span> +departure, a great uproar was made on this subject, +and I was obliged to yield the point, and give them +burnouses. These presents had been promised to +Hateetah on the road from Mourzuk to Ghât, upon +the condition that the Sheikhs and people would +agree to the treaty. They had also been mentioned +at Mourzuk; but then, nothing had been said about +conditions. I considered it highly impolitic to +allude to the treaty in the hearing of the Turks, +who would have thought I was secretly going to +enter into an alliance offensive and defensive with +the Ghâteen against them. The Tuaricks, however, +stood upon the point, that when the burnouses were +promised first, there was no talk of an equivalent, +and I was obliged to concede.</p> + +<p>When I had finished distributing these presents, +there was peace for the few hours that we were yet +to remain at Ghât. Haj Ahmed, however, seeing +and hearing of all this confusion, became alarmed +lest I should repeat it to Mourzuk, and refused to +take the presents of tea, coffee, sugar, a white burnouse, +and a few large carpet-rugs, which I offered +him. His son, also, refused what I tendered, a fez +and a turban, because it was not enough. Everybody +in Ghât who expected a present from us, +seemed determined to be satisfied with nothing less +than a burnouse. The Governor wished to appear +perfectly disinterested amidst this confusion and +these extortionate demands of the Tuaricks. I was +not sorry for the refusals, for really I have ten thousand<a name="page166" id="page166"></a><span class="pageno">[166]</span> +people to give presents to before I return from +the interior.</p> + +<p>I do not consider that, after all, Haj Ahmed +treated us so well as he might have done. The first +dinner was good; but the others were poor, and +some of it I could not eat at all. He was disappointed +at my not bringing him a printed Koran; +but I could not, on this occasion, make such a present.</p> + +<p>Hateetah, in all these disputes at Ghât, has +acted a double part. Publicly he was our enemy; +but privately he pretended to be our greatest +friend. He was imitated in his conduct by the +son of Shafou, who seemed to look upon him as his +Mentor. On leaving, Hateetah promised that I +should see something wonderful which he would do +for me, speaking of the treaty. I am afraid that +not much reliance can be placed on these fine promises.</p> + +<p>On the morning fixed for my departure, the +Sheikhs and Haj Ahmed, seeing me much grieved, +out of health and out of temper, all came forward to +try and repair any mischief they might have done +me and their own reputation. They begged me to +leave the treaty with them, and promised faithfully +in the assembly of all the Sheikhs, in the winter, to +do their best to gratify the wishes of the British +Government. They also undertook to write private +letters themselves, especially Hateetah. Haj Ibrahim, +to whom I presented a watch worth twenty dollars,<a name="page167" id="page167"></a><span class="pageno">[167]</span> +also promised to render me all his assistance and +influence with the Sheikhs, and to be my wakeel +(agent) in my absence. Jabour paid me a farewell +visit, and after he received his present was very +polite and jocular. Yusuf Moknee, as a Tripoline, +also paid him six reals; for he is the official protector +of people from that city, as well as some +others. The day before, one of his people had seized +my Fezzanee servant because he did not give the +usual presents, viz. a barracan and common fez. +He was put to "working in water," as they call it; +that is, to assist in irrigating one of the gardens. +After a short time, however, they allowed him to +return to me. Such are the Tuaricks—grasping, +violent, and capricious! I cannot, however, until I +see the fate of the treaty, completely decide upon +the conduct of Hateetah and the body of Sheikhs +generally.</p> + +<p>Mahommed Kafa was one of our best friends at +Ghât, and had always a smile to greet us with—a +great relief in a country where most of the people +you meet have a frown on their brows and their +mouths closely muffled up. This man is the most +considerable merchant of Ghât, and exerted himself +greatly to procure us an escort of Kailouees. I +gave a white burnouse to him and his son. They +both sent us a dinner. We were fortunate in finding +a party of Kailouees here on their way to Aheer. +They have agreed to act as escort, which renders us +in some measure independent of the son of Shafou.<a name="page168" id="page168"></a><span class="pageno">[168]</span></p> + +<p>During my residence at Ghât I received a visit +from my old friend Ouweek, and also from the old +bandit whose acquaintance I made at Ghadamez. +Ouweek was very complimentary, and shook me +cordially by the hands. He observed, "There is no +fear in this country; go on in advance: this country +is like Fezzan." I then brought him out some +tobacco, and a handkerchief to wrap it in. As usual, +he did not seem satisfied with this; so I added a +loaf of white sugar. He then noticed Yusuf, and +thus addressed him: "Yusuf! I have heard that +Hateetah and the son of Shafou are about to conduct +these Christians to Soudan. I am a better man +than them all! Now Hateetah and Waled Shafou +will want this sugar and tobacco on the road. I +leave it for them." On this he started up on two +sticks, for he is doubly lame, having the Guinea-worm +in both legs, and went away hurriedly. I, +however, sent the sugar and tobacco after him, and +this time he condescended to accept them. He +came to see me mounted on his maharee (or +dromedary).</p> + +<p>To the old bandit of Ghadamez I also presented +some tobacco, and he went his way. Fortunately +there were few Tuaricks in Ghât at this time, otherwise +I should have had hosts of such visitors. The +absence of these grasping chiefs has interfered, it is +true, with the treaty of commerce; but it is possible, +that even had Khanouhen been present some other +shift would have been discovered. There are now<a name="page169" id="page169"></a><span class="pageno">[169]</span> +present in Ghât only the Sheikh Jabour, Waled +Shafou, Sheikh Hateetah, Sheikh Ouweek, and +Haj Ahmed, the governor of the town. The Sultan +Shafou himself is on the road to Soudan, and we +shall probably meet him in a few days on our way. +I have, however, sent this aged chieftain a handsome +sword from the English Government, by his son, +to whom I gave it in one of the public meetings.</p> + +<p>With reference to the treaty, it may, perhaps, +be considered in a fair way to be finally accepted. +At the winter souk every person of influence and +authority in the country will be present, and in the +form in which I have presented it, I believe it will +provoke little or no opposition. The clauses with +reference to religion and the slave-trade have, of +course, been left out; the first as unnecessary, the +second as dangerous at this early stage of our proceedings. +Even already it may be said that the +market at Ghât may safely be visited by British +merchants; for although Hateetah may require +heavy presents, he will certainly protect them.</p> + +<p>However, we must bear in mind, that in a +country governed in so irregular way, it is very +difficult to answer for the future. The governor, +Haj Ahmed himself, told me in a deprecating manner, +"Ghât is a country of Sheikhs!" and Hateetah +says, half jocularly, "Ghât has thirty Sultans!" +Fortunately, however, it is the interest of the rulers +of this part of the desert to encourage traffic; they<a name="page170" id="page170"></a><span class="pageno">[170]</span> +live by it; otherwise it would be dangerous to trust +to their assurances.</p> + +<p>We were in all but seven days in Ghât, so that I +had no time to make researches. However, I am +fortunate in procuring a collection of dialogues and +a vocabulary of most of the common words in the +Tuarick dialect of the tribes in Ghât. I employed +for this purpose Mohammed Shereef, nephew of +the Governor of Ghât, who is a pretty good Arabic +scholar. I have also made an arrangement with +my friend Haj Ibrahim to forward to the British +Government a small quantity of Soudan manufactures +for the Exhibition of 1851; so that the +industry and handicraft of the dusky children of +Central Africa may be represented side by side with +the finished works of Paris and London artisans.<a name="anchor6" id="anchor6"></a><a href="#footnote6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote6" id="footnote6"></a><a href="#anchor6">[6]</a> This account of Mr. Richardson's residence at Ghât is copied +from a summary in his journal, with occasional insertions from his +despatches to Government. It is very brief and imperfect; but the +traveller was so fully occupied by various kinds of business during +his stay, that he was not able to write, and only threw upon paper a +rough memorandum after he had started on his way to Aheer. The +imperfection is the less to be regretted, as, up to this point, the +Sahara had previously been pretty well travelled and described. He +now breaks fresh ground, and is more copious in his notes.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page171" id="page171"></a><span class="pageno">[171]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter11" id="chapter11"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Start from Ghât—Reflections—Beautiful Valley of Berket—Last +Date-palms—The Kailouees—Dr. Barth lost again—Meet our +Guides—The Akourou Water—Ghadeer—Soudan Influence on +the Tuaricks—Wataitee leaves us—Oasis of Janet—Kailouee +Character—A sick Slave—Rocky Desert—Gloomy Scene—Servants—Egheree +Water—Ajunjer—A threatened Foray from +Janet—Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf—We have no Money—Region +of Granite—Dr. Barth's Comparisons—A Slave Caravan—Granite +Rocks—Beating Women—The Bird of the Desert—Desolate +Region—Our Relations with the Kailouees.</p> +</div> + +<p>The departure from Ghât was, for most of us, +an exciting moment. So far I had considered +myself comparatively on familiar ground; for although +I had followed different routes, the great +points of Mourzuk and Ghât were well known to +me. Now, however, we were about to enter upon +a region totally unknown, of which no authentic +accounts from eye-witnesses—unless we count the +vague reports of natives—had ever reached us; +valleys unexplored; deserts unaffronted; countries +which no European had ever surveyed. Before us, +somewhere in the heart of the Sahara, raised into<a name="page172" id="page172"></a><span class="pageno">[172]</span> +magnificence perhaps by the mirage of report, was +the unknown kingdom of Aheer, of which Leo +Africanus hints something, but the names of whose +great cities are scattered as if at haphazard over +the maps, possibly hundreds of miles out of their +right position. What reception shall we meet with +in that untried land? In what light will its untravelled +natives—fierce from ignorance and bigotry—regard +this mission of infidels, coming from +latitudes of which they have never dreamed, with +objects unappreciable and perhaps hostile? Will +nature itself be hospitable? Are there no enemies +in the climate, no perils peculiar to the seasons? +These questions occupied my mind as the caravan +wound between the last palm-groves of Ghât; and +my camel, resuming its swinging march, went away +with its neck advanced like a bowsprit over this +desert sea, which might be scattered with hidden +dangers at every step.</p> + +<p>The wind does not always serve at the outset of +a voyage. Our first stage was only of two hours +southwards, as far as Berket, a considerable town, +well walled, situate under a low hill, and surrounded +with palm-trees and gardens. The people visited +us on our arrival; all proved troublesome and some +insolent. I had heard a better account of them. +Their country is pleasanter than themselves, certainly +the most picturesque piece of desert I have +seen since leaving Tripoli. A range of lofty black +mountains extends on the east, with mounds of sand<a name="page173" id="page173"></a><span class="pageno">[173]</span> +and smaller hills at their base, dotted with the beautiful +ethel-tree; palms rise in abundance on all sides; +gardens surround the wells; and animals feed about +on the plain. The scenery is quite rich, and even suggests +the idea of fertility. The Tuaricks possess +many similar fine valleys.</p> + +<p>We started late next day from Berket, and made +only four hours to a well. Here it was necessary to +wait for Waled Shafou, and the three extra camels +which we have hired to go with us to Aheer. The +scenery resembles that of yesterday; but there is not so +much herbage, and the palms are absent. Probably +the date-palms of Berket are the last trees of this +species which we shall see until our return. The +olive-district has long ago been left behind; and +now the columnar date-palm is also to be among +the things that were. They report, however, that +there is a diminutive species in Aheer. We shall +greet this dwarf-cousin of our old friend with pleasure.</p> + +<p>We are on our way to meet the Kailouee +Tuaricks, with whom we have arranged in Ghât +to conduct us by Aheer to Zinder—a service for +which we have already paid a hundred dollars of +the money of Ghât. They are a company of +merchants returning to their own country, and although +they will probably protect us to a certain +extent, can scarcely inspire so much confidence as +Waled Shafou would have done. We travelled four +hours on the 26th. Dr. Barth was again lost this<a name="page174" id="page174"></a><span class="pageno">[174]</span> +evening, having pushed on in his usual eager way +for about half an hour. We were filled with alarm. +There were two roads dividing at a certain place, +one direct and the other turning off at an angle. +Naturally, the Doctor followed the straight road, +which proved to be the wrong one. However, +knowing he had gone on before, my fears were +awakened when we reached the fork; and I immediately +fired several guns, and ordered a search +to be commenced. The guns not only served as +guides to Dr. Barth, but introduced us to the +Kailouees, who were close at hand, and came running +to meet us. Their appearance, for I scarcely know +what reason, sent a thrill of joy through our frames; +and the weariness and discouragement we had +brought with us from Ghât disappeared. We entertained +great hopes of these new companions. +The first impression they produced was good; for +they greeted us most cheerfully, and began helping +to unload the camels. They have several female +slaves with them, and muster in all some twenty +persons and about thirty camels; so that, altogether, +we shall form a very respectable caravan.</p> + +<p>We rose early on the 27th, and starting at half-past +six, continued moving until noon, when we +encamped in a valley a little before the water of +Akourou, where there is herbage for the camels in a +hollow amidst rocky sandstone hills. The scenery +of this part of the desert continues to be very +varied. The range of lofty marl hills, over which<a name="page175" id="page175"></a><span class="pageno">[175]</span> +the sun rises for Ghât, is still seen stretching +northwards and southwards. Animals feed about +here and there; some quails whirr along the +ground; black vultures, white eagles, and numerous +crows, perch upon the rocks, or speckle the sky +overhead. I went to visit the "Water," as they +call a small lake that nestles amidst the rocks. It +is of some depth, and filled, they say, merely by +rain-water, very palatable to drink. Even when +no showers occur for several years it does not +become quite empty; and as there is no apparent +reason for this, I am led to suppose it may be partly +fed by some spring in the rocks that form its bed. +This lake imparts an unusually cheerful aspect to +the valley in which it lies. It is resorted to by the +dwellers of the neighbouring district, who come to +water their flocks, and feed them on the herbage +that springs round the margin. These pools or +collections of water are called ghadeer, which I at +first mistook for the name of a particular locality. +According to Yusuf, this place gives an exact idea +of the Tibboo country, where, he says, there are no +wells, but vast clefts in the rock, down which pours +the water when it rains, to collect in the hollows +at the bottom. Our people speak with great respect +of this ghadeer. Everything connected with water +is sacred in the desert. They say that for several +weeks after a rain-storm there are regular cascades +over the rocks.</p> + +<p>Next day we advanced in six hours to a wady<a name="page176" id="page176"></a><span class="pageno">[176]</span> +similar to that we had left; curiously shaped sandstone +rocks showed themselves on all sides: no +fossils were discovered. Asses in droves were seen +feeding about. The Tuaricks possess a good number +of these useful animals, brought from Soudan, +of a finer breed than those at Mourzuk. All the +domestic animals of the country are from the same +place—the horses, bullocks used to draw the water +from the wells, as well as the sheep and asses. +Ghât, indeed, is within the circle of Soudan influence; +the people dress in Soudan clothes; eat +off Soudan utensils; and mingle a great deal of the +Soudan language with their Tuarick dialect. We +feel, therefore, as if we were now going towards a +centre instead of from a centre. Mourzuk, on the +contrary, holds itself in connexion with the Arabs +of the coast; and seems to receive no influence from +the interior except by means of the Tibboos, who +form a kind of connecting link. There is a considerable +sprinkling of this curious people in the +lower portions of the population of Mourzuk, and +there are always some genuine specimens to be met +with in the streets. It may be said, however, that +both the capital of Fezzan and Ghât itself seem +rendezvous from all parts of Africa; and I imagine, +that in all the souk (market) cities of the interior +the same fact will be observed. However, it will +remain true, no doubt, that south of Ghât the influence +of Soudan will be far more sensibly marked +than on the other side.<a name="page177" id="page177"></a><span class="pageno">[177]</span></p> + +<p>The son of Shafou, Mahommed Wataitee, who +seems to have made up his mind to shirk the +journey to Aheer, left us this morning to go to +Aroukeen and meet his father, who is encamped +with his flocks and dependants around that well. +No doubt it is fashionable in Ghât land to be "out +of town" at this season of the year. Our Kailouees +have determined to take another and more direct +road, avoiding Aroukeen and the Azgher Tuaricks +in its neighbourhood. Waled Shafou says, he shall +fall in with us somewhere about Falezlez; but this +seems somewhat doubtful. When people separate in +the desert they must not calculate on meeting again +in a hurry. We parted about three hours from the +water of Akourou, the road to Aroukeen branching +off there. He took the easterly route and we the +westerly, and we were soon out of sight. Our way +still lay through desert-hills, but with vegetation +frequently. There was talk of the small oasis of +Janet to our left; and we indulged in some pastoral +reflections on the life of contemplative ease +and primitive simplicity which would be indulged +in in such an out-of-the way place.</p> + +<p>We seem to have got into some scrape with the +Kailouees. Besides the hundred dollars which Haj +Ibrahim paid them to conduct us from Aheer to +Zinder, it appears he promised them some burnouses, +when we have none for them. They mentioned +the subject to-day, very naturally. We must do as +well as we can. They seem civil enough; but an<a name="page178" id="page178"></a><span class="pageno">[178]</span> +incident has just occurred which has much displeased +me.</p> + +<p>It appears that when these people came to Ghât, +a few weeks ago, they left a sick slave with some +shepherds among these rocks. To-day they inquired +about the slave, whether she was dead, or what had +become of the poor thing; but the shepherds +refused to give any account,—said, in fact, they knew +nothing about the matter. Upon this the Kailouees +seized a black boy belonging to these poor people +and dragged him along, with a rope round his neck, +to terrify him into confessing what had become of +the slave. The poor boy, however, had nothing to +confess; so at last, after they had dragged him for +some distance, they let him go. Such is a specimen +of the incidents which almost daily occur, arising +out of this horrible traffic. I lectured one of the +Kailouees on the subject, and told him that we were +in Tuarick territory, and that such an action might +bring the genuine Tuaricks upon us.</p> + +<p>It would appear that the governor of the town +of Aghadez, or rather of the whole Kailouee race, +is not known, there having lately been a revolution +in this Saharan region. All the country is up in +arms. We shall arrive at the interesting crisis +of a change of dynasty. The two Sultans of Aheer +known, are our friends En-Noor and Lousou.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—We rose at daybreak and soon started, +ascending from the valley through a difficult pass +to a rocky plateau, over which we pursued our undeviating<a name="page179" id="page179"></a><span class="pageno">[179]</span> +track for more than nine hours, and pitched +our tents in a small and nameless wady, covered +with a sprinkling of herbage. This was a trying +day for the camels, the ground being rough with +loose stones. How different is all this from European +notions of a desert, or level expanse of sand! +With some few exceptions, the Sahara is a region +covered by comparatively low, rocky hills, forming +valleys here and there, supplied with trees, and +herbage, and water. We are now in a really uninhabited +spot; scarcely a bird is seen, or a lizard, or +a beetle, or any living thing, save a few flies that +still follow the caravan on unwearied wing, and +buzz with moderated ferocity about the noses of the +camels.</p> + +<p>What fantastic forms did the rock assume to-day! +Now its pinnacles bristled up like a forest of +pines; now there seemed to rise the forms of castles +and houses, and even groups of human beings. All +this is black sandstone—hideously black, unlovely, +unsociable, savage-looking. 'Tis a mere wilderness +of rock, thrown in heaps about, with valleys, or +trenches, or crevices, through which the caravan +slowly winds. This is our first cloudy day. May +we have many such! We feel little of the sun's +power, although there is little or no wind. We +must have reached a considerable elevation.</p> + +<p>I begin to find it necessary to keep a tight rein +over our servants, otherwise our encampment and +party would always be in disorder. Mohammed<a name="page180" id="page180"></a><span class="pageno">[180]</span> +Tunisee is a very impertinent fellow at times, and +is capable of spoiling all the others. This evening +I gave the Kailouees and their servants a treat of +coffee, which much delighted them. Amongst the +rest was En-Noor's servant. We get on very well +with them for the present.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—We made five hours of very difficult road, +winding nearly all the way through a ravine of the +rocky plateau, and finally descended by a precipitous +path, among some rocks, to a small lake or pool +enclosed within immense cliffs of rock, called the +Egheree Water. It is produced solely by rain. +Within ten minutes of this, between the cliffs, is +another three times the size, and of the same origin. +All about, moreover, there are little pools of water +sparkling amongst the rocks, left by the recent rain. +We encamped in a narrow wady, called Ajunjer, +further on; and propose to remain during the rest +of the day and to-morrow. It has been cool to-day, +with wind; the sky clear, of a deep blue. In the +rocky valley we observed a species of hedge-thorn, +called jadāree; also many of the fine large-leafed +plants, called baranbakh; and the sweet-smelling +sheeah, that reminded us of home-lavender.</p> + +<p>We have been hitherto going on in a quiet, jog-trot +way enough, almost forgetting that the desert +has perils, and that we are not in a civilised land. +Now comes something to awaken us out of this +dream of comfort. A courier has arrived from Ghât, +bringing the news that one Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf,<a name="page181" id="page181"></a><span class="pageno">[181]</span> +the great man of the oasis of Janet—on which +we have been speculating so pastorally—is preparing +to come out and intercept our passage to +Soudan, near the well of Tajetterat. This pleasant +intelligence came to us in a letter from Hateetah +and Jabour, who, however, philosophically +add that they are not quite sure it is correct. I +rewarded the courier with five reals, and sent him +off to Waled Shafou and the Sultan with the news; +begging the former to meet us certainly at Falezlez, +which is about four days from this, whilst Tajetterat +is nearly eight. Janet is now only a day and a-half +south-south-west from our encampment. It is a +small oasis, inhabited by Moors and Tuaricks. The +statistics of the place begin to interest us exceedingly. +We are told that there is a good deal of +corn grown there, on account of the abundance of +water. Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf—whose voluminous +name we found it quite easy to learn under these +circumstances—is cousin of the Sultan Shafou, +and a very old man; but we cannot hope that +in these frugal regions the gout will interfere in +our favour, and put a stop to this unprovoked foray.</p> + +<p>The weather has been cool to-day. We are on +high ground, although in a wady; and this renders +the heat very supportable. The reported attack keeps +our minds occupied, and has a little upset us; +but no one talks of flinching. Besides, this has not +been the first alarm, nor will it be the last. I sent an +account of this circumstance so far to Lord Palmerston<a name="page182" id="page182"></a><span class="pageno">[182]</span> +by the courier; and should have written +much more, had not I been occupied with the news +and with the Kailouees, who have chosen this occasion +to be troublesome. We do not get so much +information, by the way, out of these people as we +might expect; they do not know the names of the +wadys and rocks hereabouts, and so pretend they +have none.</p> + +<p>The hundred dollars which we brought from +Mourzuk are now nearly all gone—I have only +eight or ten left. Friend Sidi Jalef Waled Sakertaf—how +unmusical the name sounds!—will get +little money from us, and must content himself with +our baggage, if he will play the robber. For the +cousin of a Sultan, fie!</p> + +<p><i>August 1.</i>—We left Ajunjer early, and made five +hours only, because to-morrow there is no herbage +until late in the evening. How tantalising to be +obliged to advance thus by short stages towards an +ambuscade! We take things pretty philosophically, +however, and make geological observations. Overweg +(who begins to show signs of weakness) is delighted +that we have at length reached a region of +granite. I think I must have passed a great number +of rocks of the same kind between Ghadamez +and Ghât. To the eye of an ordinary observer, +some of them have the same aspect as sandstone, or +even limestone. This granite interests us, especially +as in the direct Bornou route there appears to be +none at all.<a name="page183" id="page183"></a><span class="pageno">[183]</span></p> + +<p>Dr. Barth compares the Tuaricks of Ghât and +the Haghar to lions and tigers, and the Kailouees to +snakes. The comparison well hits off their outward +characteristics, but, as Overweg says, we must not +judge of these people by the ordinary rules of +morality, or apply to them an European standard. +I suspect we shall have to put up with still more +extraordinary specimens of human nature.</p> + +<p>We were proceeding, engaged in noticing the +various colours and forms of the granite, when +there appeared advancing through the ravine ahead +a number of moving figures. At first, of course, we +were a little alarmed; but it turned out to be only +a slave caravan—about twenty camels and forty +slaves. One of the little boys had an immensely large +head—quite a phenomenon. We, of course, eagerly +questioned the merchants about Sahara news, and +especially as to whether the Tuaricks had made their +appearance at Falezlez or Tajetterat. They had +neither seen nor heard of the hostile party; and +perhaps we may hope that all this is a rumour. +However, it looked very like truth; and, possibly, +Sidi Jafel may know perfectly well that there is no +occasion to hurry. The Tanelkums are now about +four days in advance of us, and may receive the first +brunt of the attack. These slave-dealers tell us, +that from Falezlez to the place where we are to +be robbed and murdered is four days of dismal +desert, without water—suffering before sacrifice. +We are getting into the heart of the Sahara at last.<a name="page184" id="page184"></a><span class="pageno">[184]</span> +Day by day the stations become more difficult. +Another caravan is to pass in a few days, which +may give us more definite intelligence. I am writing +to Government and to my wife; but of camels I +am heartily sick. Gagliuffi's camel still sticks in +my throat. It was the first to knock up. I +have left it at Ghât—thirty-eight mahboubs gone. +People want to make a fortune out of my poor expedition.</p> + +<p><i>2d.</i>—We made a long day of twelve hours, at first +between granite rocks for four hours, and then over +a sandy plain. This plain was at first scattered +with pebbles of granite, but finally it became all sand. +The granite rocks were mostly conic in form, and +on our right rose one peak at least six hundred feet +high. Further off on the same side, at a distance, +the rocks continued in a range, instead of being +scattered about like so many sugar-loaves placed +upon a plane, as mountains are represented to children. +To-day the granite became stratified, or +gneiss; there were also some fine specimens of hornblend.</p> + +<p>One of our Kailouee friends amused himself on +the road by giving a good beating to his female +slave. These people transact their domestic affairs +in public with the utmost simplicity. They seem +to think they are showing themselves in a favourable +light by this brutal conduct, for I detect glances of +pride thrown towards us. Whenever these beatings +occur—which they do at no distant intervals—there<a name="page185" id="page185"></a><span class="pageno">[185]</span> +is always another servant, or some one, who +attempts to separate the enraged master from the +object of his wrath. In the present instance, interference +took place in time to prevent any very serious +consequences; otherwise, I have no doubt the ruffians +would go on exciting themselves, and beating +harder and harder, even until death ensued. We +noticed the common black bird I have already mentioned, +with white head and tail. It is indeed seen +everywhere, and may emphatically be called "The +Bird of the Desert!"</p> + +<p>Next day, the 3d, we started at daybreak, and +made another long day of nearly twelve hours. It +is necessary to hurry over these inhospitable tracts. +After two hours we got among some sand-hills, and +continued all day over the same kind of ground—hill +and valley alternating, with here and there a +huge, isolated, granite, rock rising up like an island. +Pebbles strewed the surface of the sandy valleys. +I scarcely remember to have beheld so desolate +a region. For two days there has been no water, +and the camels have stretched out their necks in +vain for herbage. A little grass, it is true, was +plucked among the sand-hills to-day, and mixed +with the dates, which we are compelled to give to +the camels. These poor beasts are becoming thin +and gaunt, from the effects of heat, fatigue, and +especially from the lack of sufficient herbage. +Luckily, cool winds from the south supply the place +of the gheblee.<a name="page186" id="page186"></a><span class="pageno">[186]</span></p> + +<p>This evening one of the Kailouees challenged me +to have a run with him; I accepted the challenge, +and we ran a short distance, to the great amusement +of the people.</p> + +<p>Our guides are sociable companions enough. +They pointed out to day on the sand the footsteps +of the caravan which we met a few days ago going +to Ghât; and likewise their own footsteps, left when +they passed by that way a month and a half since.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page187" id="page187"></a><span class="pageno">[187]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter12" id="chapter12"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Reach Falezlez—Dates left in the Desert—Road-marks—Disputes +with the Kailouees—News from Tidek—Scarcity of Food in +Aheer—Similitudes and Signs of the Tuaricks—Fine Climate—Arrival +of Wataitee—His Boasting—Saharan travelling—My +Umbrella—Grasping Son of Shafou—Geology of the Desert—The +"Person who gives"—Another Caravan—Tuarick Sportsmen—Wady +Aroukeen—Fine Scene—New Trees—Kailouee +Camels—Fine Nights—Well—New Moon—Passing a Caravan +in the Desert—Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks—Arrive at +Tajetterat—No Robbers—An Alarm—Well of Esalan—Senna—Birds—Graves +of Slave Children—Our Grievances against the +Tuaricks.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—We might have reached the well of Falezlez +last night; but as we did not know who +might be waiting for us there, preferred halting +three-quarters of an hour from it, and advanced +only in the morning, in broad daylight.</p> + +<p>Here we found our dates, left by the Tanelkums +in the side of a mound of sand, with a piece of +rotten wood stuck up to mark the place. Had +they been, however, exposed by the side of the +well, and a hundred caravans had passed, no one +would have touched them. It is a point of honour +to steal nothing thus confided in the desert. Mutual<a name="page188" id="page188"></a><span class="pageno">[188]</span> +interest suggests mutual forbearance. The +Tanelkums left these dates, because we had only +hired the camels to bring them thus far, and they +knew we should not probably come up with them. +This increase of our provisions turns out to be +opportune. Without it, some of our animals might +have fallen down.</p> + +<p>Round and near Ghât we found the stones +which are set up at certain intervals to mark the +direction of the roads, frequently arranged in circular +heaps. An usual form is pyramidal, but the +most common practice of all is to set up one stone +end-ways upon one or two others. Sometimes a +hundred of these will be seen together.</p> + +<p>We have had some trouble in satisfying the +Kailouees for the protection they afford us. At +Ghât the agreement made was for one hundred +reals, half in goods and half in money, and a trifling +present when they arrived at their journey's end. +This was arranged by Haj Ibrahim and Mohammed +Kafa, a merchant of Ghât, and consul or +wakeel of the Kailouees, whom I have before mentioned. +Immediately that they became a little +familiar with us, they began to say that they had +not received all the hundred reals; but on hearing +that we should write to Ghât about it, they dropped +this plea, and asked for another hundred reals as +the present promised them, as they pretended, +through Haj Ibrahim. When the news came respecting +Sidi Jafel—taking advantage of our supposed<a name="page189" id="page189"></a><span class="pageno">[189]</span> +fears—they boldly demanded a sword, some +burnouses, and one hundred reals in money.</p> + +<p>All these demands I firmly resisted as long as +I could; but at length, when a compromise seemed +necessary, we arranged for a hundred reals more +in goods. A part we have given here, and the +rest we have promised on our arrival at Aheer. +Nothing is now said of Zinder, although the first +arrangement was from Aheer to Zinder. Such are +the people we have to deal with in Africa. But +could we not find similar extortion amongst the +innkeepers and the conductors of carriages on the +highways of Europe?</p> + +<p>That all the people are <i>soua soua</i>—"higgledy-piggledy" +is our only equivalent phrase—is bad news +for a Saharan traveller; for it signifies nothing less +than that there is no paramount authority in a +country, and that the traveller is exposed to the +insolence of every evil-disposed person. Such is +represented to be the condition of Tidek, the first +province of Aheer upon which we shall enter.</p> + +<p>The scarcity of food in Aheer—one of the +causes of the disturbances that are taking place—arises, +we are told, from the quantity of provisions +carried away from the country when the Kailouees +made their expedition against the Walad Suleiman. +But this expedition is now finished, and there +has been time for a revival of prosperity. Sickness +and disease are reported in Aheer at the present +time. These are unpleasant tidings for a<a name="page190" id="page190"></a><span class="pageno">[190]</span> +traveller who is braving the fatigues and perils of +the Great Sahara, in hopes of some little repose at +his journey's end.</p> + +<p>To express great numbers, the Arabs and Tuaricks +always use the similitudes, "like the dust," +or "like flies." When the Tuaricks say we are to +give nothing to anybody—speaking, of course, of +other people, as Hateetah to me—they take up a +little sand between the ends of their fingers and +scatter it on the palms of their hands. When they +wish to describe roads free from hills and ravines +they extend the palm of their hands, adding, "Like +this." I cannot say that I admire the Kailouees +in any respect. Barth's comparison to snakes is +tolerably correct. They have duped us in various +ways, and our only consolation is being able to +report their conduct to their friends in Ghât and +Zinder.</p> + +<p>These observations occur to me during our prolonged +halt at the well of Falezlez. The whole +caravan needs this refreshment, both on account of +the fatigues it has already encountered, as of those +to which it may look forward on the tract of desert +which now stretches wild and inhospitable before +us. Yesterday the sky was completely overcast; +but during the night and this morning the clouds +have been succeeded by wind, and strong blasts have +completely cooled us. I do not think that the climate +would affect me so much as it does if I had something +good to eat; but the Tanelkums have got<a name="page191" id="page191"></a><span class="pageno">[191]</span> +with them all my soups. The Germans eat hausa +like Tuaricks, and do very well. I expected to +find the water of Falezlez most unpalatable. This, +indeed, is its reputation; but we were all agreeably +deceived, and the salt taste was scarcely perceptible.</p> + +<p>About ten in the morning, on the 5th, a solitary +white camel, with a rider, was reported as trotting +rapidly over the hills to the east. The circumstance +created some excitement. It was Mohammed +Wataitee, son of Shafou, coming riding like +the monarch of the desert, as he is, upon his fine +maharee. He had been travelling three days and +three nights consecutively; and however eager we +were to hear his opinion of the dangers that threatened +us, it was necessary to allow him to spend the +whole day in repose.</p> + +<p>When we could get speech of the traveller, he +talked boastfully of the value of his protection, +and assured us that we had really nothing to fear. +He had heard, or would acknowledge to have +heard, no rumours of the hostile intentions of his +father's cousin; only, he observed, "He is an old +man," with a gesture that implied wilfulness. He +would have us believe that this terrible enemy who +has been pursuing us—at least in our imagination—is +nothing but a testy old gentleman, who says +these sort of things in a fanciful way just to express +his power.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—We were off soon after sunrise, and made +a long day of twelve hours. The Kailouees were<a name="page192" id="page192"></a><span class="pageno">[192]</span> +half an hour more performing the same distance. +They started first, and we travel a little faster than +they. Scarcely a blade of herbage cheered our +sight to day. A sandy, gravelly hamadah, with +a few rocks and sand-hills here and there,—such is +the nature of the country. The rocks now assume +a conic form, <i>ke ras suker</i>, like a sugar-loaf, as the +people say. Our course was south-west, and so it +will continue to be, nearly as far as Esalan, I was +amused by an observation of Dr. Overweg; he said, +"I now understand the system of these people" +(Saharan travellers). "It is to travel as much as +possible without labour—to do all that is necessary, +but nothing more. When we left Tripoli, instead +of reposing immediately at the camping-ground of +the caravan, everybody was running about to climb +the hills and rocks; but now we all fall down to +rest as soon as we have halted." The Doctor speaks +of himself and Barth, certainly not of me; for I +always rested as much as possible with the people.</p> + +<p>My old broken white umbrella attracts some +attention amongst the Kailouees. They all make a +trial of it. Strong umbrellas would be very useful +during the hot summer months for all Saharan +travellers.</p> + +<p>I to-day asked the son of Shafou how his father +liked the sword. An unfortunate question. He +replied, "Ah, he sends his compliments; but says +the sword is a little thing, and that you ought to +have sent him some money. There were many<a name="page193" id="page193"></a><span class="pageno">[193]</span> +people waiting to see you at Aroukeen. They +were much disappointed at your not coming. They +said,—'The Christians must pass this way.'" It +appears that a whole tribe of Tuaricks were waiting +for us, to beg, and to "eat us up," as the Arabs +graphically express it. In this respect we have +been fortunate in not finding Tuaricks on our line +of route.</p> + +<p>7th—We made another long and weary day +of twelve hours. The fatigue is killing. Our +course was south-west, through heaps and groups +of rocks and narrow shallow wadys. In some +directions, ridges of small rocks; in others, isolated +masses of conic form. The bed of the desert is +mostly granite, and some of the rocks are of the +same substance. Indeed, the Central Sahara seems +to bristle with ridges of granite. Then there are +many varieties of this stone, and others springing +out of granite, as quartz rocks and felspar, and +some sandstone mixed with quartz. Across our +path we observed many traces of wild oxen, and a +few were seen with their immense horns. Birds and +reptiles were rare, and the lizard not so frequent +as before. Our camels found scarcely a mouthful +of hasheesh; no trees were visible, except a few +miserable tholukhs.</p> + +<p>The Kailouees have changed in a marked manner +since Wataitee has rejoined us, and are much +more civil. But I do not talk to them, contenting +myself with a civil "Good day. How do you do?"<a name="page194" id="page194"></a><span class="pageno">[194]</span> +This prevents them from begging of me. They +beg of Barth and Overweg, who do not notice +them. As I am "the person who gives," I am +obliged to be very polite, but distant.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—We started at sunrise, and made a short +day of seven hours and a-half, resting at last in a +wady surrounded with rocks, where there was some +good herbage.</p> + +<p>In the course of this march we met another +portion of the large Soudan caravan, and consigned +to it our letters. They brought the news that +the Tanelkums were a day only in advance, having +halted to take up water at Aroukeen, where they +dug again the old well which had been blocked +with stones.</p> + +<p>This caravan informed us, besides, that the +body of the large caravan was resting at the well +of Tajetterat. They had seen no Tuaricks. We +begin to hope that we have been disturbed by +false alarms.</p> + +<p>At about four hours from the encampment of +yesterday we descried some mountains to the south-west. +Near them is the well of Janet, said to be +about seven hours out of the line of route. It is +a frequent resort of Tuaricks, who come to the +neighbourhood for hunting purposes. All this region +is favourable to sport. Along our route to-day +were noticed footmarks of wild oxen and wadan.</p> + +<p>Wataitee asked me whether he should go to +see if there were any Tuaricks at Janet, to get<a name="page195" id="page195"></a><span class="pageno">[195]</span> +news of them; but I told him that he had better +continue with us until we reach Tajetterat. This +he has agreed to do; and we all feel that his presence +is, to a certain extent, a protection.</p> + +<p>In the evening we had a visit from three +Tuarick sportsmen, with a couple of dogs. We +purchased two carcases of wadan from them. It +would have been most amusing to an untravelled +European to witness the bartering between us. +The principal hunter got hold of the grey calico, +and would not let go until he had his full measure. +Then how deliberately he measured again with his +long arms, with all the appearance of justice, +whilst he was filching off inches at once! Two +small carcases cost us about a mahboub. Wataitee +pretends that these hunters never carry provisions +with them, but must catch wadan and oxen or die. +I made a tremendous supper of wadan, being as +ravenous as a wolf for a little meat and soup. The +meat is so strong and nourishing, that it threatened +to produce injurious effects. It is necessary to be +cautious about indulging in unaccustomed food. +Still this meat is far superior to camels' flesh.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—We rose, and, with our accustomed regularity, +started before daybreak in search of water, +for the Kailouees are without this element essential +to life in the desert. Having continued about six +hours and a-half, we encamped in Wady Aroukeen. +It would not have been necessary to come to this +place, had our imprudent Kailouees taken in a sufficient<a name="page196" id="page196"></a><span class="pageno">[196]</span> +supply of water. This wady lies east and +Tajetterat west.</p> + +<p>Our course had been over an elevated rocky +plain; but I had no idea of the height to which we +had arrived. Suddenly the ground broke up on +either side of the track into rocky eminences, and +we now came to the brow of a sharp descent. The +valley of Aroukeen wound as it were like a snake +far down at the bottom of an immense hollow, surrounded +on all sides by an amphitheatre of savage-looking +mountains—great stony swells, made hideous +here and there by crags and ravines, and piled away +on all sides in shattered magnificence. This is the +grandest desert prospect I have yet seen, and must +strongly clash with the ordinary notion of the Great +Sahara which untravelled geologists have represented +as the recently-elevated bed of some ocean. +We must now have reached the summit of an inland +Atlas, dividing the extreme limits of the Ghât +territory from the, to us, mysterious kingdom of +Aheer.</p> + +<p>In Wady Aroukeen there are some of the +finest tholukhs I have seen, reaching the height of +thirty or forty feet. There are, besides, two new +species of trees, the adwa of Soudan, called, in Aheer, +<i>aborah</i>: they have not been observed before, and are +natives of Bornou. Their general aspect resembles +the tholukh, but they have large prickles and a +smooth roundish leaf. There is a good deal of +hasheesh in this valley.<a name="page197" id="page197"></a><span class="pageno">[197]</span></p> + +<p>We are now, they say, about twelve days from +Aheer, exclusive of the stoppages; twelve days, I +mean, of twelve hours a-piece. These long stretches +are desperately fatiguing, and trying to the health; +but there is no remedy. We must make these +weary stages on account of the scarcity of water and +herbage for the camels. The Kailouees tie their +camels by the lower jaw, and fasten the string to the +baggage piled on the back of the preceding animal; +and the long line moves on well this way. The +Tuaricks fasten their bridles, when they ride their +maharees, by a round ring in the nose.</p> + +<p>We had granite again to-day, and fine beds of +felspar, pebbles, and rocks. The geology of this +portion of Sahara is very interesting, but no crystals +have yet been found. Yesterday and to-day, +the wind has been high, moderating greatly the +heat. The wind is nearly always south-east. The +nights are resplendent. Jupiter and Venus are +seen close together in beautiful conjunction. The +constellation of the Scorpion rises higher in the +south, whilst the Pole-star apparently falls.</p> + +<p>I read nothing nowadays but a few verses of +the Greek Testament, and write these miserable +leaves of journal. I must save my strength. I am +very weak as it is. We have still got nearly forty +days of actual travelling to make before we enter +Soudan, but we hope Providence will allow us a +little rest at Aheer.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—We moved on late this morning up Wady<a name="page198" id="page198"></a><span class="pageno">[198]</span> +Aroukeen, one hour and a-half, to a place where +we have better feeding for the camels; but it was +scarcely worth the trouble of loading and unloading, +as the animals could have been led up here to this +portion of the wady.</p> + +<p>Wady Aroukeen is in every respect a desirable +place for the resting-place of a caravan. It is full +of trees and hasheesh, and lined with lofty precipitous +rocks, which afford shelter in winter and in +summer, and, as say the Scriptures, give "the shadow +of a great rock in a weary land." The well +dug by the Tanelkums supplies very palatable +water. It lies about an hour and a-half from our +encampment.</p> + +<p>I sent off my Soudanese servant this morning to +the Tanelkums, to ask them to wait for us; or at +least leave the things behind which I require for our +use.</p> + +<p>Yesterday evening the new moon (second evening) +was seen by our people, telling them that the +Ramadhan was finished. They saluted the pale +crescent horn with some discharges of their guns.</p> + +<p>To-day is a great feast, but they have not the +means of keeping it.</p> + +<p>I cannot say that at this portion of my journey +my mind is visited by much cheerfulness. However +agreeable may be the valley of Aroukeen, with +its grass patches, its clumps of trees, and the eternal +shadow of its rocks, I find my strength begin, +to a certain extent, to fail me. For several days I<a name="page199" id="page199"></a><span class="pageno">[199]</span> +have had some threatening symptoms of ill-health; +not very serious, perhaps, to a person surrounded +with any of the comforts of civilisation, but much so +to one in my position. Besides, despite my endeavours +to disbelieve the dangers with which we +are said to be menaced from lawless freebooters, it is +difficult to disregard them so far as to remain perfectly +impassive.</p> + +<p>My Kailouee friends do not seem to share our +apprehensions. Sometimes this circumstance cheers +me; at others it suggests the idea that they may be +in league with their brethren. Let us hope not. +At any rate I am still displeased with them on account +of their shabby conduct, and disposed, perhaps, +to look at them more unfavourably than they +deserve.</p> + +<p>A man came over the hills to our right in the +course of the day. He belonged to the Soudan +caravan, the great body of which was passing at no +great distance by another road. Our presence does +not seem to be agreeable to such of these people +as derive no profit from it. This individual, +in his own name and that of his companions, insists +that we Christians must not be allowed to enter the +City of Marabouts, the Holy City of Aheer. Many +Musulman countries of the interior have their holy +cities. Perhaps this worthy man made these observations +because he had nothing else to say. At any +rate, having expressed his opinion, he went off. +I regretted his churlish warning; but his presence,<a name="page200" id="page200"></a><span class="pageno">[200]</span> +to a certain extent, cheered me. It was pleasant to +know that a large body of my fellow-creatures +were near at hand in this inhospitable desert, even +though they entertained feelings of suspicion against +us, and were proceeding on a path which might +never again bring us together. Caravans often pass +thus in these regions, like ships at sea, which hail +each other if within hearing, but, not lying-to, are +satisfied by this slight testimony of mutual sympathy.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—We started somewhat late, and made a +good day of nine hours and a-half through winding +narrow valleys, supplying a fair quantity of hasheesh. +The country around was wild and rugged—still +the same primitive formation, gneiss being the +most common rock. On the way we heard the +story of the origin of the Kailouees, as given by the +Haghar Tuaricks; it is probably meant as a satire. +According to this people, a female slave escaped from +their country, and travelling over the desert, reached +her native place in Soudan. But she bore within +her bosom a pledge that still half bound her to her +ancient masters. She brought forth a male child, +and loved him and reared him; so that in process +of time he took a wife, and from this union sprung +the bastard race of Kailouees.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—We had halted the previous evening because +we were within an hour of the well of Tajetterat, +which had become famous in our caravan as +the place where we were to be attacked and despoiled<a name="page201" id="page201"></a><span class="pageno">[201]</span> +by the freebooter Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf. +This morning we pursued our way, cautiously sending +scouts before. But as the wady opened, the place +proved to be desolate, and we advanced joyously, +with the confidence that this time at least we had +been disturbed by a false alarm. Still, as we descended +towards the well we could not now and +then refrain from casting our glances about into the +gorges of the mountains, to discover whether or not, +after all, our enemies were lying in ambush there. +Not a living thing stirred upon the hills; and we +gathered round the two wells, or rather holes scraped +out of the sand, with feelings of delight and confidence. +The water proved to be good; it is said to be +produced by rain, and to be purgative,—a quality +it must derive from the soil through which it trickles. +We determined, however, not to stop at this +place, lest the men of Janet<a name="anchor7" id="anchor7"></a><a href="#footnote7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> might after all arrive; +and pushing on, in hopes that our track +might be confounded with those of the caravans, we +reached, after a rapid march of five hours and a-half, +the well of Esalan. As we approached, we saw an +encampment in its neighbourhood, and camels grazing +about. Our vanguard halted; and the whole +caravan soon became massed in the entrance of the<a name="page202" id="page202"></a><span class="pageno">[202]</span> +gorge through which we were about to issue. Our +far-sighted guards, however, soon discovered that +there was no cause for alarm. We had at length +overtaken our Tanelkum friends; and riding forward +I greeted them, and, forgetting all idea of +danger, anxiously asked for our baggage, and above +all for my inestimable supply of potted soups!</p> + +<p>In this part of the country the scenery is far +more open than it was before; the mountains are +lower, but the wadys are not so wide. Here and +there occurred considerable patches of herbage, +called <i>sabot</i>, and many large, fine trees. Amongst +the smaller ones, for the first time, we came upon the +senna plant, some of the leaves of which our people +plucked. Higher up, in Aheer, is apparently the +native soil of this plant. We had also again the +adwa, several trees, and the kaiou or kremka, the +only plant we have yet seen with a truly tropical +aspect.</p> + +<p>The adwa bears a fruit something like the date, +and is eaten by the people in Soudan. As to the +<i>sabot</i>, above mentioned, it is a kind of herbage, +which covers the beds of the valleys in this region +of primitive rock: it forms the principal food of +our camels. The <i>bou rekabah</i>, however, the best +for them, is in small quantities, but when seen is +devoured to the sand. The people of Aheer eat its +seed as ghaseb.</p> + +<p>Yesterday, we saw, for the first time, a bird's nest +in the desert, in the side of a rock. It contained no<a name="page203" id="page203"></a><span class="pageno">[203]</span> +eggs; our people, on a former occasion, brought in +some. It is astonishing how few birds' nests are +found, though in some places a good number of small +flutterers are seen. About the wells of Tajetterat +darted half-a-dozen quails. We have not yet +observed an ostrich, although many traces have +been found on the sand. Around, however, are +numbers of the wadan,<a name="anchor8" id="anchor8"></a><a href="#footnote8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> and our huntsmen are +active. Yesterday some flesh of this animal was +brought in.</p> + +<p>In this part of the route we frequently fell in +with small heaps of stones; and if we ask what they +mean, are invariably told they are the graves of +slave-children who have perished by the way, most +probably in the arms of their mothers. What wonderful +tales of sorrow and anguish could these rocks +give, if they were not compelled to eternal dumbness! +What sighs, what shrieks of grief have echoed +here! How many tears have watered this track! +These thoughts saddened our way; but they seemed +at the same time to rouse that enthusiasm which is +the only adequate ally to those engaged in such a +mission as ours.</p> + +<p>The son of Shafou is to leave us at Esalan. I +may as well record here, in form, a list of our grievances<a name="page204" id="page204"></a><span class="pageno">[204]</span> +against the Tuaricks, for the information and +warning of future travellers:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>1st. They, the Tuaricks, wished to obtain presents +from the Germans, nearly in the same quantity +as from myself; or, at least, something considerable.</p> + +<p>2d. They wanted us to remain six weeks in Ghât, +to wait for an answer from Sultan En-Noor at +Aheer.</p> + +<p>3d. They refused to conduct us to the frontier of +Aheer, according to their agreement at Mourzuk.</p> + +<p>4th. They demanded seventy reals for the passage +of our free blacks.</p> + +<p>5th. They insisted on having the presents for +Berka, Khanouhen, and Jabour, before the treaty +was signed.</p> +</div> + +<p>The first two demands I successfully resisted, as +also the third at Ghât. The fourth was compromised; +we paid twenty-eight reals instead of seventy. +The last I yielded, on the condition that I should +only give three burnouses.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—The water of Esalan is, likewise, nothing +but a deposit of rain. Several holes are scooped out +in the sand, down to the rocky bed of the valley.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote7" id="footnote7"></a><a href="#anchor7">[7]</a> This name is sometimes written "Janet," sometimes "Ghanet" +by Mr. Richardson, who, moreover, now describes the inhabitants of +the place as Haghar and then as Azgher. A more definite account is +given further on. It appears, however, that vulgarly in the Sahara all +the Tuaricks are called Haghar or Hagar, which seems to have been +used rather indiscriminately in the caravan as a term of fear.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote8" id="footnote8"></a><a href="#anchor8">[8]</a> Wadan is the Arabic name of the aoudad of the Berbers. We +call the animal "mouflon" (<i>Ovis tragelaphus</i>). It is found in considerable +numbers throughout the deserts of Northern Africa, from the +Atlantic to the Red Sea. I have seen a beautiful specimen, nearly all +milk-white, in Cairo.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page205" id="page205"></a><span class="pageno">[205]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter13" id="chapter13"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>News of Sidi Jafel—Disputes with Wataitee—His violent Conduct +and strange Language—The Desert—Scarcity of Money—Proceed +through a rocky Country—Soudan Weather—Approach +the Frontiers of Aheer—Storm—Hard Day's Travelling—The +Seven Wells of Aisou—"The Haghar are coming"—Suspicious +Characters—Alarm—The Three Strangers—Our Hospitality—Heat +of the Weather—Hard Travelling—Account of the Kailouee +Guides—Women of the Caravan—Their Treatment—Youthful +Concubines—Another long Day—A Rock-Altar—Demonstrations +of the Haghar—Wells of Jeenanee—Marks of +Rain—Sprightly Blacks—New Climate—Change in the Vegetation +and the Atmosphere.</p> +</div> + +<p>We have at length heard what appears to be a fair +account of the rumour respecting that terrible Sidi +Jafel. He did leave Janet as if bound for Tajetterat; +but it was for the purpose of giving his camels a +feeding of herbage in that direction. He took his +family and tents with him, and has been seen with +his son by the huntsman of Wady Aroukeen. He is +not a sheikh, but a spirited old man; and, from what +I can understand, is a Haghar belonging to Ghemama, +and not an Azgher of Ghât. They now +assure us that he had never any intention of attacking<a name="page206" id="page206"></a><span class="pageno">[206]</span> +us; but as there is rarely smoke without a fire, it +is possible he may have indulged in a little threatening +talk, just to impress an idea of his importance +on the people of Janet. This is Waled Shafou's +view of the case.</p> + +<p>We moved on from the well of Esalan in the +evening, but only for an hour and a half, to a place +in the same wady; where there was abundant herbage +for the camels. Here we had another Tuarick +dispute. Wataitee pretended to fix at a very high +rate his services in answering to our call, and proceeding +with us as far as this well. At first I refused +to give anything at all, since he had stipulated +to conduct us as far as the frontiers of Aheer. I +then offered him a burnouse (a small white one), +and a shasheeah (or fez), both which he obstinately +rejected in my teeth, but did not state what he +wanted—except muttering, "Money, money, +money!"</p> + +<p>Fearing some violence from his threatening +manner, I was obliged to load my guns and pistols. +Whilst declaring he would not take anything by +force, he used very threatening language. He was +to have left us at the well, but followed us this +evening; and when we decamped I determined, +therefore, if possible, to come to some arrangement +with him through En-Noor, as he might prove a +dangerous enemy.</p> + +<p>Whilst speaking to Yusuf on this subject, En-Noor +the Kailouee, who, by the bye, must not be<a name="page207" id="page207"></a><span class="pageno">[207]</span> +confounded with the Sultan of Aheer bearing the +same name, came in and told us that he had just +seen Wataitee, who was exceedingly exasperated, +and who threatened to stop the caravan in the +morning if his demands were not complied with. +What is to be done? Were we to aim at satisfying +all the unjust claims made upon us, we should not +only be beggared immediately, but should have +whole crowds of fresh suppliants coming in every +day. Wataitee seems to expect that I should give +him something like a hundred reals in money for +his pretended extra services, and goes thundering +about, "that the lands, and rocks, and mountains +of Ghât do not belong to God, but to the Azgher, +to whom the Creator has given them once and for +ever, and who are the sovereign and omnipotent +rulers of this portion of earth—this large tract of +Sahara." There has often been detected in the +speeches of African princes a certain degree of blasphemy +and resistance to the omnipotent sovereignty +of the Deity they adore; and this kind of language +was not new to me. The possessors of lawless +power seem easily to identify themselves with gods.</p> + +<p>To us, naked rocks, and treeless valleys, and bare +stony plains, are objects without interest, except in +a geological point of view. But it is very different +with the Haghar and Azgher. In their eyes, a +plain of stones and sand holds the place of a heath +of growing bloom; a barren valley is a vale of +fertility; rocks and mountains are always objects of<a name="page208" id="page208"></a><span class="pageno">[208]</span> +beauty; whilst wells are treasured of wealth, as +indeed they are verily in the desert. A Tuarick +may be said to know every stone of his arid +kingdom.</p> + +<p>Taking these things into consideration, and +making a merit of necessity, we agreed together to +offer him thirty reals. He had already come down +to fifty, and now accepted the thirty, but said they +must be the large ones, or <i>douros</i> (dollars). It was +arranged that I should pay the money to En-Noor in +Aheer; for all now had become convinced that not +one of us three had any dollars worth speaking of +left. I believe I have some six or seven, whilst the +Germans have none. If we had brought a thousand +with us, they would all have been scattered to the +wind in these Tuarick countries. Our servants, +being persuaded that we have no dollars left, have +sworn to the fact; so that my candid declaration, +"That if they were to kill me, they could not find +ten dollars to pay them for their trouble," is now +believed.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Wataitee came early to my tent, and asked +me for a bit of sugar. I gave him half a loaf, with +which he was apparently well satisfied; for afterwards +he asked if I had any letters to take to Ghât. +I consigned to him a letter for Mr. Bidwell and my +wife. Wataitee amused Barth by recounting to +him numerous dues which he had failed to pay. +Amongst the rest, a tax to see the Kasar Janoon; +fifty dollars for drinking of the well of Esalan, &c.<a name="page209" id="page209"></a><span class="pageno">[209]</span> +&c. These matters being at length settled, we proceeded +for Aisou, and journeyed a long day of +twelve hours and a-half. I was looking out every +moment, expecting to clear the rocks, and enter +upon the immeasurable stretch of plain reported to +us. But all was a rocky granite expanse, with +conical-shaped rocks, exactly as before described. +We begin to tire of this kind of country, which +seemed so picturesque when we first entered upon it.</p> + +<p>To-day the weather was misty, and we felt +as if entering into the circle of a new climate. +Few or no animals were seen. All is dismal and +dreary.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—We rose at daybreak, and proceeded steadily +on, making a day's journey of thirteen long +weary hours. The stony plain opened rather more +than yesterday, but there were always rocks on +either hand.</p> + +<p>To-day we had the first drops of Soudan rain, +and a complete Soudan atmosphere. We also observed +the vermilion tinge on the clouds, peculiar +to Central Africa; and the air was hot and clammy. +Every sort of desert phenomenon is seen in these +parts in perfection. The mirage often fills up the +interstices left between the rocks, and inundates the +plain ahead with its fantastic waters.</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—We were early in motion this day; and +started, cheered by the hope held out to us, that at +the termination of two long marches we should at +length reach, at the Seven Wells of Aisou, the<a name="page210" id="page210"></a><span class="pageno">[210]</span> +frontiers of Aheer. It is true that we were promised +no town, no village, not even visible landmarks; +above all, no custom-house officers to suggest +the blessings of civilisation. There was, in truth, +some idea that very indefinite dues might be exacted +of us during our progress through the northern districts +of the Asben territory. Still it was a comfort +to get at last within the limits of the influence of +a form of polity, however rude.</p> + +<p>Whilst we were indulging in these reflections, +there came on a regular desert-storm. A vault +of clouds, like huge irregular rocks, was soon +heaped up overhead. The thunder roared from +side to side of the horizon. The lightning flashed, +sometimes above, sometimes between, the isolated +hills, showing them like long black tents pitched +here and there on the plain. Our beasts moved +eagerly on; and their drivers, though accustomed +to such phenomena, were hushed into awe. The +tempest did not last many minutes; but it was +accompanied by wind so violent that we could +scarcely preserve our seats in the saddles, and +finished off with so violent a shower of rain that we +got quite wet through almost in an instant. This +is a fair warning that we are really within the +tropics.</p> + +<p>We made fourteen hours that day, and felt +dreadfully exhausted on arriving at the place where +we expected to encamp for the night. In two +hours, however, the Kailouees came and told us that<a name="page211" id="page211"></a><span class="pageno">[211]</span> +there was no more water in the skins; that the +camels were restless, knowing that a well was ahead; +and that it was better to move on at once, +and make for the well of Aisou, that marks the +commencement of the Aheer territory. We started, +therefore, again, although I was suffering from illness, +and moved on all night, nodding in our +saddles in a half-slumber, that to those unaccustomed +is almost more fatiguing than watchfulness. +Several times I felt inclined to insist on a halt; but +the people, who were eager to arrive, cried out that +<i>the camels wanted to reach the water</i>; and proceeding +accordingly, about seven o'clock the next morning +we at length reached the Seven Wells. We found +only two open, the others being closed up by +sand. Some of them belong to the Kailouees, and +the others to the Tuaricks of Ghât. There is no +good feeding for the camels, only a few tufts of +coarse herbage. The kingdom of Aheer presents +itself under grim colours. I did not move about +this day, but consecrated it to rest. The rocks of +Asben rise above the horizon.</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—Bidding adieu to the land of Ghât—if that +name can be applied to the desert which we have just +traversed—we left the Seven Wells, and once more +entered upon the desert. We had scarcely been in +motion two hours, when there was an alarm of +Haghar coming upon us from behind. I did +not at first know how the report originated, and +looked anxiously around upon the desert expecting<a name="page212" id="page212"></a><span class="pageno">[212]</span> +to see a body of enemies charging down some valley. +All the people ran for their guns, and I hastily delivered +out powder and ball. It was amusing to see +the slaves with their bows and arrows, coming forward +and trying to look martial. I have no doubt +they would have done their best. When the tumult +was a little calmed, I learned that two of our people, +who had remained behind a short time at the +wells of Aisou, saw a Tuarick coming up to the +place, and, two others slowly following, all three +mounted on tall maharees. They spoke to the +one who arrived first, and inquired if many were +behind. To this they received a laconic answer, +"Yes." One of them accordingly, feigning to +retire, left his servant hid behind a rock to watch +what took place, and ran after us to communicate +the unwelcome intelligence, that we might expect +an attack. We marched the whole day with our +weapons in hand, keeping a sharp look-out in the +rear. Of course there was no other subject of conversation +than the robbers, of whose existence our +fears made us certain. Were they, after all, led +by that Sidi Jafel, of whom rumour had lately +become so complimentary? Whence did these +encouraging accounts come? Were they circulated +by persons interested in putting us off our +guard? Discussing these questions, we pushed on +through a very arid country, searching for one of +those two blessings, which seem to be always +separated in this part of the desert,—water and<a name="page213" id="page213"></a><span class="pageno">[213]</span> +herbage. We had found the former at Aisou; the +latter greeted us in plenty at a place called Takeesat, +where we encamped, intending to pass the night and +the whole of next day. The herbage was of the +kind called <i>nasee</i>, which is very strengthening for +the camels.</p> + +<p>I believed that the Haghar would not follow the +Kailouees upon their own territory, but I was mistaken. +Just before sunset, to our surprise, we saw +rising above the hills around the valley where we +are encamped, three mounted men. These mysterious +Haghar are then determined, we thought, +to pursue us Christians as their natural prey! The +men rode coolly up and mingled with us, probably understanding +and enjoying the looks of suspicion and +terror that greeted them. No one thought proper, +at first, to address them a single question; and they +were allowed to picket their maharees without molestation. +It must be confessed that there was no little +agitation in our camp, and everything was done to +give any attacking force a warm reception. We +made barricades of the boat, and kept watch all +night. We also scoured the valley all round to see +if there were any other people about.</p> + +<p>I must insist, for the credit of our gallantry, +that it was not of these three men that we were afraid. +Our caravan was composed of sixty individuals +capable of bearing arms, besides women and children. +Our camels also amounted to one hundred +and seven. Had we not, therefore, been tormented<a name="page214" id="page214"></a><span class="pageno">[214]</span> +for so many days by rumours of intended attacks, we +should have laughed at these Haghars, however +fierce might have been their looks, and however +hostile their intentions. But our guides, who knew +the habits of the desert, did not think it beneath +their dignity to be alarmed, nor to look anxiously +about to the right and to the left, as if every stone +concealed an enemy, every ravine an ambush.</p> + +<p>By the way, it may be as well to mention here, +that the reader may know how to call the enemies +we feared, that although vulgarly the whole race +that inhabits between the borders of Fezzan and +Timbuctoo are called Haghar, the Tuaricks of Ghât +are properly distinguished as Azgher; and those +located towards Tuat and the Joliba, Haghar. Had +they and their party been of generally predatory dispositions, +they would have had something to occupy +them—the caravan belonging to Haj Ibrahim coming +from Soudan. We should, perhaps, be uncharitable +enough to hope that precious time might be occupied +in plundering these good people, were we +not certain that, if we are really to be attacked, it is +because of the presence of Christians. Will our +guides peril life or limb to preserve from danger +people whose tenets they abhor?</p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—The three men, supposed scouts or spies, +remained with us during the night. At first, it was +proposed to push on, and get as far as possible away +from danger; but as our unbidden guests made a great +oath that they did not know that there were foreigners<a name="page215" id="page215"></a><span class="pageno">[215]</span> +in the caravan, and that they only wanted a supper, +having had nothing to eat for fifteen days, we +determined to carry out our original intention, both +for the sake of our camels and ourselves. That the +men might he bound to us by the tie of hospitality, I +presented them with some hamsa, to which En-Noor +added a little zumeetah, and we determined at all +hazards to give our camels and ourselves rest. Our +people, in fact, soon discovered that the Tuaricks +had brought nothing with them but a single skin of +water. They pretend they are going to see their +friends and relations in Aheer, and wish to accompany +us, which our people have politely declined. +But I must see the end of them before I set down +an opinion.</p> + +<p>I wrote up my journal to-day, and am in good +health. My spirits are a little soured, nay, exasperated +into activity by these constant troubles. +It is very hot now. I have hit upon a happy contrivance +for keeping out the sun from my tent. I +lay my carpet on the sandy floor of my tent, and +with my table and the frame of my bed I make a +wooden covering over. On the top I place my +mattress and thick blankets, I then lay myself +down underneath; and am perfectly protected from +the sun above, whilst the cool breeze enters at the +bottom of the tent. There is, then, not a person in +the caravan who suffers so little from the heat as I +do, I recommend the plan to travellers.</p> + +<p>These last four days we have made immense<a name="page216" id="page216"></a><span class="pageno">[216]</span> +progress towards Aheer—I mean, its inhabited districts.</p> + +<table cellpadding="2" summary="Progress towards Aheer"> +<tr><td>Wednesday</td> <td>12 ½</td> <td>hours</td> <td></td> <td>31</td> <td align="center">miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thursday</td><td>13</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td><td>32 ½</td><td align="center">"</td></tr> +<tr><td>Friday</td><td>14</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td><td>35</td><td align="center">"</td></tr> +<tr><td>Friday night to Saturday morning</td><td>9</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td><td class="bb">22 ½</td><td align="center">"</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="4">At 2 ½ miles an hour</td><td>121</td><td align="center">miles.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>Sometimes, however, the camels went at least +three miles an hour. We have come, indeed, about +130 miles, and nearly all south; which has brought +us so much more within the influence of the climate +of Soudan. On the third day, at noon, the granite +region disappeared, and we have now sandstone +again.</p> + +<p>Some of our servants have begun to feel uneasy, +and are becoming troublesome, in consequence of +these constant alarms of Haghar. To do the free +blacks justice, they behave well. Yusuf is getting +out of temper, and somewhat changed in manner. +He is annoyed at seeing me not place so much confidence +in him as at first; I have reason to be +dissatisfied with his carelessness. Mahommed of +Tunis is a good servant, but at times impertinent.</p> + +<p>I am getting rather more accustomed to our +Kailouee companions. They are dressed in most +respects like the Tuaricks, but seem to take pride +in loading themselves with a luxury of weapons. +To see one of them running after a camel is really +a ludicrous sight: bow, arrows, sword, gun, pistols,<a name="page217" id="page217"></a><span class="pageno">[217]</span> +dagger, stick out in all directions, and it is hard to +imagine how they would behave in the midst of this +arsenal if attacked. The chief of them is En-Noor, +a person of mild and good manners—quite a gentleman, +in fact. He is a man of light complexion; but +his two companions are dark as thorough negroes. +These individuals, Dedee and Feraghe by name, are +great beggars, and by no means scrupulous in +their conduct. I steadily resist their demands. +En-Noor manages to preserve his dignity by their +side. He tells me he will go along with us as far as +Zinder. The Kailouees have some servants with +them, very good-humoured black fellows. Of the +Tanelkums I know little; but Haj Omer, who will +accompany us to Kanou, seems a man of courage +and tact. There are two or three venerable old +men amongst these Tuaricks, together with some +young ones. They all feel the civilising effect of +visiting Mourzuk. Certainly this people could do +much, if they pleased, for the civilisation of Africa; +but at present they are actively engaged in drawing +out of the unfortunate central countries the capital +requisite to maintain even their existence. Of +Boro, the sheikh of Aghadez, I cannot yet venture +an opinion. They say, he spoke sharply against +Hateetah and Wataitee.</p> + +<p>To return to the Kailouees. I imagine they +must resemble all the men we shall find in the +interior, in one respect—the love of women. They +are eloquent in describing the beauties of the cities<a name="page218" id="page218"></a><span class="pageno">[218]</span> +of Soudan—eloquent, I mean, in their sensual style, +of which I cannot venture to give a specimen. The +Tanelkums, children of the desert, are, like the +Haghars, far less sensual in their imaginations, and +indulge less in amorous conversation. There are +some comely women-slaves in the caravan, but +most of them are very plain. They have in general +negro features, but a few are light in complexion. +Their clothing is poor, without any attempt at +finery; but when they have prepared the food of +their masters they take their shares freely. They +walk well on the road when necessary, and being +light and slightly made, do not appear to suffer +from fatigue.</p> + +<p>As a rule, all these women are modest and +decorous in behaviour, and are treated with considerable +respect. No master interferes with the +slaves of another, and most of them are permitted +in their turn to ride. A poor creature belonging to +a Tuatee, however, is forced always to trudge on +foot, although its master often takes a lift himself. +Two of the women have infants in their arms—little +things, as knowing, to all appearance, as those that +can run. These mothers, with their children, are +treated with great tenderness and care.</p> + +<p>Some of the merchants had as many as three +female slaves a-piece; but it is to be observed, that +they are mere girls. The Africans who can afford +to indulge their tastes, abhor women of any age. +All their slaves are of tender years. The older these<a name="page219" id="page219"></a><span class="pageno">[219]</span> +gentlemen get, the younger they require their concubines +to be. An aged sinner of Aghadez had a +mere child with him. En-Noor is said to have +half-a-dozen stout girls running about his house. +Really, to satisfy the passions and sensuality of these +Africans, women should be like the houris of Paradise, +and never grow old. Those that accompanied +us were, of course, regarded as mistresses, but were +required also to do nearly all the drudgery of the +caravan. Their masters must have sold much +prettier and finer girls at Ghât.</p> + +<p>The name of the place where we are now encamped +is, as I have said, Takeesat, and that of +the rocky plain we traversed between Esalan +and Aisou is [<i>omitted in Journal</i>]. We shall now +have great confusion in the denominations of places, +the Tuaricks using one name and the Kailouees +another.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—We rose early, and at four o'clock were +already in motion. It was a long and weary day—fourteen +hours of actual travelling; but this, thank +Heaven! is, we are told, the last long stretch of that +kind we shall have to undertake. The country was +nearly similar to that between Falezlez and Aisou; +plains or slightly indented valleys. The granite +appeared again, with sandstone on the top. No +herbage was found to-day, except a few scanty bits +here and there.</p> + +<p>In the morning our blacks all ran up to a sugar-loaf +shaped rock, which they called their altar<a name="page220" id="page220"></a><span class="pageno">[220]</span> +or temple, Jama. There they performed certain +strange incantations, after which they descended and +began to indulge in mock-fights, sometimes even +simulating an attack upon the caravan. What was +the real meaning of their pantomime it was impossible +to make out, but they amused us exceedingly +by their wild gestures and cries.</p> + +<p>The three mysterious Haghars still continued to +follow us throughout the day, declaring that they +had no evil intentions, but were merely poor wayfarers +journeying to Aheer. They have made +friends with the Tanelkums, with whom they have +more points of resemblance than with the Kailouees. +In appearance and manners they are remarkable +enough. They wear a shield of bullock or rhinoceros +hide hanging down on one side of their camels. +During our march, it was evidently their desire to +show off; for they moved in order of battle as +they called it, in a line, the two who had spears +holding them bravely up. It was certainly a pretty +sight to see them play off this little exercise. But +in the evening, after dark, they returned from feeding +their camels somewhere in the mountains, and +came and bivouacked close to us and our baggage. +This alarmed us, and we sent En-Noor to remonstrate +with them. After some wrangling, they promised +to leave us if we would give them supper. +We did so, and got rid of them for the night.</p> + +<p>There was some dispute this evening with the +servants about pitching our tent. I always find<a name="page221" id="page221"></a><span class="pageno">[221]</span> +them ready to escape this trouble when they can. +However, it appears that En-Noor recommended +us not to pitch our tents that we may not be known +during the night, in the event of these three Haghars +having comrades skulking after them, seeking an +opportunity to attack us.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—We rose an hour before daylight, and +journeyed eight hours, passing through a country +resembling that of yesterday, and a pleasant valley +called Wady Jeenanee, until we arrived at the wells +of the same name. They are scooped out of the sand +in a stony bed, and amidst rocks. The water is very +palatable. It has no natural source, but there is +an abundant supply for several months, and even +years, after great rains.</p> + +<p>To-day we noticed, for the first time on our +journey from Tripoli, the recent marks of the fall of +a great quantity of rain. It had left after it exactly +the same forms on the sandy valley which we see at +all times, quite dry, in the more desolated regions of +the Sahara. There cannot be a doubt that occasionally +an immense quantity of rain falls in every +region of this great desert.</p> + +<p>The senna plant was picked up again to-day, +and the tree called aborah appeared in great numbers +in the wady, in a corner of which we encamped.</p> + +<p>Although our friends, the three Haghars, promised +to leave us for ever if they had a supper, +yesterday they appeared again <i>en route</i> to chat with +their Tanelkum acquaintances. God knows, they<a name="page222" id="page222"></a><span class="pageno">[222]</span> +may be honest men—in reality, poor devils obliged +to beg their way to Aheer. They wander about +here and there. (I have not seen them this evening, +five P.M.)</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding that the blacks of our caravan +(mostly slaves) walked on foot fourteen long, long +hours yesterday, they still danced, and sang, and +played games in the evening, and kept it up till midnight! +How capable are these Africans of bearing +up against fatigue and toil! Could we Europeans do +as they do? Not even in our own country, and +under our own climate.</p> + +<p>They afterwards made a collection of small +articles of clothing, and other little things. I gave +them a handkerchief, with which they were greatly +delighted.</p> + +<p>We had a perfect Soudan atmosphere to-day. +The heavens were surcharged with clouds, and +when the sun appeared through them for a few +minutes, it was burning, scorching hot. The abundance +of herbage and trees in Wady Jeenanee combined +with these circumstances to show that we had +entered the gates of a new climate.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i><a name="anchor9" id="anchor9"></a><a href="#footnote9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>—We started late, seven A.M., and journeyed +about six hours, the camels eating nearly all +the way, which gave our Tuarick caravan the appearance +of a company of Arabs. To-day the herbage +and trees increased, in abundance and variety, and<a name="page223" id="page223"></a><span class="pageno">[223]</span> +we saw several pretty wild flowers. We observed +many Soudan trees, or trees with tropical aspects. +Our route lay through rocky valleys, over a bed of +fine granite sand. The rocks were all blackened, +forming a gloomy landscape, especially as all the +morning the heavens were one impenetrable mass +of clouds. The atmosphere felt, at first, damp and +suffocating; but at length the wind got up, and we +breathed more freely.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote9" id="footnote9"></a><a href="#anchor9">[9]</a> Here is a day repeated in the journal; but as it is not of much +moment, I have made no alteration.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page224" id="page224"></a><span class="pageno">[224]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter14" id="chapter14"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer—Hostile Tuaricks—An impudent +Demand—The Merchant Waldee—Prepare for Defence—Threatening +Appearances—Making Friends with Presents—March—Leave +Waldee—Doubtful Visitors—The Camels stolen—The +Troop of Assailants draws nigh—Parley—Their Proposition—We +are compelled to a Compromise—Character of our +Enemies—Sinister Rumours again—Proceed toward Tidek—Wady +of Kaltadak—Picturesque Scenery—A Friend from Seloufeeat—Fresh +Mob collects to attack us—Conferences—We are +to be let go scot-free if we become Muslims—We repose—Another +Compromise for Money—Incidents during the Night—Quarrel +over the Booty—Enter the Valley of Seloufeeat—Its +Soudan Appearance—Nephew of Sultan En-Noor—Haj Bashaw +of Seloufeeat—We are still uneasy.</p> +</div> + +<p>As we advanced, on the 21st, along the plain between +the granite rocks—trees and flowers starting +up thicker and thicker from the ground to greet our +approach—our guides told us that we were at length +entering the inhabited districts of the kingdom of +Aheer, or Asben, as it is indifferently called. This +announcement at once substituted pleasurable for +uneasy sensations. We thought no more at all of +pursuing robbers, and gave ourselves up to the +delight which always attends upon difficulties vanquished. +The name of the first district is Taghajeet.<a name="page225" id="page225"></a><span class="pageno">[225]</span> +We expected to behold groups of inhabitants coming +joyfully to welcome us. Our imaginations +had adorned this country almost with the colours of +home. It was about one that we crossed the unmarked +frontier. Still there were rocks around, +their angles softened away by trees; still wild +flowers mingled with the herbage on every side; +the heavens were clearing overhead, and the sun +shed down a warm mantle of rays upon the land; +yet there were no signs of life. The silence that +reigned, I know not why, introduced ideas of terror +into our minds, and we began to gaze anxiously to +the right and to the left. We remembered that this +region, likewise, was inhabited by Tuaricks, though +not of the Haghar tribe. They might be inhospitable, +perhaps hostile. All the caravan, by degrees, +seemed to join in our uneasiness; and when at +length, just before we pitched our tent, the cry +arose of "The Tuaricks! the Tuaricks are coming!" +it rose as a cry of warning and alarm. Every one +snatched up his weapons as a small group approached; +and all waited with impatience to learn +whether they came as friends or enemies.</p> + +<p>Our uneasiness was soon quieted. The newcomers +were known to some of our people, the Tanelkums, +and soon scraped acquaintance with us. +They paid a visit to my tent, and I gave them a +number of little things, with which they were very +much gratified. There was reason, then, to hope +that our first impressions of security were well-founded,<a name="page226" id="page226"></a><span class="pageno">[226]</span> +and I began writing my journal as if we +had really arrived in a land of peace.</p> + +<p>Suddenly a man, mounted on a maharee, brought +us news, at first in a friendly way, that an immense +number of Tuaricks were pursuing us; and then, +throwing off the mask, in their name demanded of +our escort that they should deliver us up to them. +This demand the Kailouees, of course, rejected with +indignation; but the circumstance put our people +on the <i>qui vive</i>, and we kept up a fire of musketry +for two or three hours during the succeeding night.</p> + +<p>At sunset, Waldee, the great merchant of Mourzuk, +came to the encampment. His caravan was +stopping half an hour higher up. He gave us much +encouragement, and eloquently recommended us to +the care of all our people, the camel-drivers and +escort. Waldee has travelled this route fourteen +years. He is just the man to do it,—a small spare +fellow with an expression of much intelligence, +which he really possesses. He is the most respected +of all the merchants on this route.</p> + +<p>When he left us, he sent us a present of Aheer +dates, which were large and exceedingly well tasted.</p> + +<p><i>22d.</i>—We stopped in the valley of Taghajeet all +day, waiting for the Haghars, but they did not make +their appearance. In the morning early, I distributed +powder and shot to about forty of our people. +Each had half a cupfull of powder and twelve shots. +It was an immense present for them, and they were +all greatly rejoiced at the gift. It is extremely<a name="page227" id="page227"></a><span class="pageno">[227]</span> +difficult for people to obtain powder and shot in +these countries. We made a line of barricades with +the boat. Amongst our defenders appeared the three +Azgher Tuaricks,<a name="anchor10" id="anchor10"></a><a href="#footnote10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> who followed us from Tajetterat, +and overtook us above the well of Aisou. We gave +them powder and shot, and they swore they would +die for us.</p> + +<p>In the evening two mounted men came up, and +made the same demand of our escort that the single +man had made the night before; namely, that they +should give us Christians up to forty or fifty Tuaricks, +collected from the various districts around. +This impudent demand was again rejected.</p> + +<p>The opinion of all the caravan now seemed to be, +that this was an idle threat of some dozen bandits, +and that the people generally would not turn out +inimical.</p> + +<p>Merchant Waldee came again this evening, and +gave us increased encouragement not to be afraid.</p> + +<p>The more we saw of this man the better we liked +him. He brought for us, also, the favourable news +that the Sheikh of Bornou was on good terms with +his neighbours, the people of Wadaï and Darfour. +I shall endeavour to return <i>viâ</i> these countries to +the Mediterranean, if possible. Our people fired +again to-night. In the evening I presented Boro +of Aghadez with a fine burnouse, and his son with<a name="page228" id="page228"></a><span class="pageno">[228]</span> +a shasheeah and a fateh. I gave a fateh also to one +of his relations, who is travelling with him. He was +highly pleased with the gift, and expressed his pleasure +in many compliments. Of giving gifts there +is no end; but this is the time, or never, when they +will be useful.</p> + +<p><i>23d.</i>—Before we started, another fellow came +riding up from the rumoured troop of bandits, and +demanded of our escort that they should give us into +their hands. Boro remembered his present, and +expressed his gratitude by resenting this insolence +with a perfect shower of abuse.</p> + +<p>We advanced nine hours this day, looking behind +us as we moved. Our course lay through a +rocky country, and two or three fine valleys, distinguished +chiefly by the immense size of the +tholukh-trees. In the afternoon a large valley +opened, amidst a mountainous region; after traversing +which, we pitched tent in a small open +space surrounded with hills, with a snug valley of +hasheesh near at hand.</p> + +<p>When we started in the morning, we bade the +merchant Waldee adieu. During the night he had +received a courier from Mourzuk, and letters from +the Consul and Mustapha Bey to recommend us to +him. Waldee said he would write us some letters, +and send them after us. He leaves his caravan at +Taghajeet, and mounts his maharee for Mourzuk, +where he expects to arrive in the course of fourteen +days.<a name="page229" id="page229"></a><span class="pageno">[229]</span></p> + +<p>I wrote by him to Government, and to my wife.</p> + +<p>In the evening, when it was nearly dusk, five +mounted men made their appearance, two of them +leading six empty camels. We did not like the +looks of them, but they gave a tolerable account of +themselves.</p> + +<p>I treated them to supper—in fact, I am obliged +to feed all strangers, as well as a good number of +the caravan. Of feeding these people, as of giving +them presents, verily there is no end. To travel +comfortably in the desert, it would be necessary to +possess Fortunatus' purse or Aladdin's lamp.</p> + +<p>During the night these strange fellows disappeared, +which circumstance naturally aroused our +suspicions. About two in the morning the Kailouees, +wishing to start early, began to bustle about +in the dark, in order to collect their camels. They +could not find any of them. Great was the consternation. +The Tanelkums instantly ran to their +drove, of which three only were missing, and ours +also were found to be safe. They have driven the +camels off, in order to prevent our progress, and +give time to the enemy to come up.</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—We naturally passed the remainder of the +night in the greatest anxiety of mind, feeling sure that +a crisis was now approaching. At about six in the +morning, four men, mounted on maharees, came riding +towards us, and drawing near, boldly summoned +our escort to deliver up the Christians, with all their +baggage and camels. The insolence of this small<a name="page230" id="page230"></a><span class="pageno">[230]</span> +body assured us that they had some force at hand; +but we boldly told them to go about their business, +as we were resolved to defend ourselves to the last.</p> + +<p>Whilst we were parleying with them, a troop of +about forty men, mounted on their fleet maharees, +and equipped for war with spears, shields, and +swords, came trotting rapidly over the hills, hallooing +with wild cries, and challenging our caravan +to battle. When the first few moments of surprise +had subsided, two-thirds of our caravan, armed with +matchlocks, pistols, and swords, advanced in a body, +and shouted out that they accepted the challenge. +This bold movement staggered the assailants, who +forthwith began to waver and retire. They had +evidently expected to overawe us by boasting. Our +people, satisfied with the effect of their manoeuvre, +retired slowly towards the encampment. Presently +a small body of the enemy advanced as a deputation, +demanding to parley, and declaring that they +did not come to fight against people of their own +faith. The remainder pretended to march and countermarch +along the hills on either hand, as if to hem +us in completely, but kept at a respectful distance. +They saw that we were too strong for them, but called +out that they would go and fetch more people.</p> + +<p>The conferences were now fairly opened, and +we found that the hostile troop was composed of a +collection of all the Sheikhs of the neighbouring +districts, with their followers, and several regular +bandits, countenanced by a Shereef Marabout. Our<a name="page231" id="page231"></a><span class="pageno">[231]</span> +people understood at once that the affair was far +more serious than they had anticipated, and began +to be downhearted. They knew that they could not +proceed without their camels, and from their expressions +and looks I could foresee that the matter +at last would have to be ended by a compromise.</p> + +<p>The enemy made various propositions, more or +less agreeable to our ears. The first was simply +that we, as infidels, should be given up to be put to +death—an idea which, luckily, nobody seemed to +consider proper or feasible. They then insisted +that we should pass on no further, but should return +by the way we had come—also declined. Next, +they demanded that we should become Muslims—a +proposition which our people refused even to mention +to us. Finally, they coolly asked for half our +goods and baggage,—no doubt their ultimate object.</p> + +<p>When they found that we would not agree to +any of their proposals, but were determined rather to +resist by the strong hand, a compromise was agreed +upon. We paid them in goods to the value of +three hundred and fifty reals, or about fifty pounds +sterling, in order to get back our camels and be +allowed to proceed. Even then, however, our +caravan lost nine animals; so that the Kailouees +suffer more even than we do. We were obliged to +put up with all this, and were glad enough when +the Shereef Marabout at length professed himself +satisfied, and volunteered his protection for the +future.<a name="page232" id="page232"></a><span class="pageno">[232]</span></p> + +<p>A wild and lawless set are these borderers of +Aheer. The gathering was evidently a spontaneous +one of all the blackguards of the country. Even +the marabout complains, that during the expedition +he has lost his burnouse, carpet, and fez, whilst he +was saying his prayers, pious man! and beseeching +for strength to overcome the infidels! He was on +his knees, when a fellow of his troop came softly +up behind, appropriated his things, mounted his +camel, and fled away—"whist," he says, like the +wind, and was soon out of sight, and appeared no +more. By the way, the three Azghers were frightened, +or corrupted, in the morning, and went over +to the enemy. They change sides with fortune; +and when some shots were fired by the enemy, by +way of bravado and to expedite the conferences, one +of their muskets was brought into play, and of +course my powder! I am happy to reflect, however, +that they got none of the booty this time, and +have "'filed their minds" for nought.</p> + +<p>As soon as we got back our camels we proposed +to, move on, our people evincing the greatest +anxiety to get away from a place where such disagreeable +things had happened. We accordingly +marched about two hours, the marabouts accompanying +us, and then pitched tent for the night. +Sinister rumours, however, were still about, like a +flight of ill-omened birds, and it was said that another +troop of people were collecting further on to +intercept our passage to Soudan. During this halt,<a name="page233" id="page233"></a><span class="pageno">[233]</span> +grave conferences were held between the Kailouee +merchant, En-Noor, and the marabout, on the +subject of these fresh reports. It turned out that +there were several people in the neighbourhood who +were dissatisfied that they had not shared in the +booty, and might prove troublesome. About thirty +reals' worth of things were accordingly selected for +them.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—We started before daylight, and advanced +about nine hours, pitching tent in the afternoon at +three. Our people are in better spirits, anticipating +the termination of the journey. However, we are +not yet free from cause of alarm. The Tanelkums, +our companions, begin to show symptoms of discontent, +and in the evening I was obliged to make +presents to the whole of them. They have certainly +worked hard for us, and suffered much anxiety on +our account.</p> + +<p>Our course this day lay towards the mountains +of Tidek, which form our southern horizon. The +country was a perfect desert. There was nothing +now to tell that we were near Soudan, except perhaps +a few tholukh-trees of gigantic stature. We +did not halt upon the track, but, turning aside, +sought a fine valley, where there was abundance of +hasheesh. Our camels greedily devour the luxuriant +<i>bou rekaba</i>.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—As usual, the caravan was got into marching +order before daybreak, and returning to the +track we proceeded rapidly. Dawn revealed to us<a name="page234" id="page234"></a><span class="pageno">[234]</span> +that we were still watched by the hostile population. +Three men, mounted on maharees, trotted along the +hills, evidently in observation. We soon got out of +the desert country, and entered the fine wady of +Kaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation. The huge +tholukhs were covered with a multitude of parasitical +plants, that hung in festoons or trailed down +towards the earth. This valley runs winding round +about the group of Tidek mountains, which have +long been in view. They say that it abounds in +lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long +glades that opened on either hand, expecting to see +some monarch of the forest stopping to gaze at us +as we passed. We discovered, however, only three +black ostriches moving slowly along in the distance,—the +first I have seen wild in Africa. They appeared +like dark moving lumps, the heads and +necks not being discernible to the naked eye. Our +people did not attempt to chase them; and the +gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewise +suffered to depart in peace. At noon we reached +the well of Anamghur, where we drank some good +water. It was scooped out of the sandy, rocky bed +of the wady. A group of five asses had been driven +down to it to drink.</p> + +<p>As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared +ahead. A person of consequence from +Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to +meet us. He advanced cordially, and told us that +he had determined to be our protection. We were<a name="page235" id="page235"></a><span class="pageno">[235]</span> +sorry that any such aid was necessary; but it appeared +from his report that there were more people +collecting to attack the Christians, and get a share +of their spoils. In the evening we encamped in an +open space clear of the trees, where we could see all +around us, and use our arms if necessary. Scarcely +were we established when a troop of fifty men came +near in a threatening manner, but did not attack +us. After dark, they increased to about a hundred. +They consisted of the sheikhs of the districts, with +their followers and lawless men scraped together +from various quarters. Meanwhile our escort, who +were anxious for their own safety as well as ours, +had sent on to the City of Marabouts, Tintaghoda, +and had prevailed on several of these holy men to +protect them and us. The night was spent in conference +instead of in repose. The hostile Sheikhs +told our marabouts that they did not come to harm +us, but to oblige us to become Muslims, for no infidel +had ever, or ever should, pass through their +country. This proposition was at once, as a matter +of business and profession, approved of by our protecting +marabouts. What priest ever shrunk from +the prospect of a conversion?</p> + +<p>Matters having come to this point, our escort, +camel-drivers and servants, could not but communicate +to us the demand made—namely, that +we should change our religion or return by the way +we had come. This time, likewise, even our own +servants prayed that we would accept the proposition,<a name="page236" id="page236"></a><span class="pageno">[236]</span> +or seem to accept it, if only for a few days, to +deliver ourselves from present danger. My colleagues, +and particularly Dr. Barth, indignantly +and passionately resisted. For my part, I looked +upon the affair with a little more calm, the same +thing having occurred to me on a former occasion +in these deserts. I told our people that we would +pay the tribute imposed by the Mahometan law on +infidels, or for our passage through the country, or +else that we would take our chance and return. +Upon this our servants exclaimed, with tears in their +eyes, "To return would be certain death!" There +was now nothing left for me to do but to say, with +my colleagues, that we would wait patiently for +death, but that to change our religion was impossible.</p> + +<p>Although, of course, the threats that were made +against us could not but produce considerable uneasiness, +I always felt pretty sure that the Sheikhs +did not exactly mean what they said, and would +come at last, as had the others, to a money compromise. +Yet, during the absence of our people, +who took the message that we were ready to die for +the honour of our country and religion, I passed, as +did my friends the Germans, a most distressing half +hour. Every sound we heard seemed to be that of +people approaching to attack us. At length we +heard voices, through the darkness. Our ambassadors +were coming back with the message: "It is +arranged, O Consuls, that you shall pay a certain<a name="page237" id="page237"></a><span class="pageno">[237]</span> +sum of money!" Children of the desert, you are +not the only ones who make a demand for conscience +sake, and then compound for cash!</p> + +<p>We only afterwards learned how this negotiation +was carried on with the enemy. Some dramatic +scenes were reported to us by our servants +as occurring between our escort and the assailing +troop, mixed with marabouts. En-Noor, on returning +from us after we had declared that we +would die for our religion, drew his sword and cast +it on the ground before the people, calling out to +the other Kailouees, "Come now, let us all die with +the Christians!" On the other hand, the fiercest +of the enemy every now and then got up and made +as if they would rush at once and spear us in our +tents. Then there was reasoning of every description, +and tremendous quotations from the Koran. +The most humane proposed that we should have ten +days' grace to reflect on our situation before we +were put to death. Our servants, who behaved +well all through this trying business, made a reasonable +proposition, that we should be taken to Tintalous +to the great Sultan En-Noor, who should +decide upon our case. But this did not suit the +purpose of these pious propagandists of the Muslim +faith, who swore that the book ordered them to +slaughter the unbelievers, and at length were graciously +pleased to accept the sum of thirty-five +pounds sterling in goods!</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—In the morning we wished to start at<a name="page238" id="page238"></a><span class="pageno">[238]</span> +once, and get away from this scene of our second +disaster; but we had to stay to select the goods +which were to pay for our lives, liberties, and consciences. +However, we at length got off; and +whilst the bandits were swearing, and griping one +another by the throat, and fighting over the booty, +we pushed hastily on towards Seloufeeat, which, +according to our Tanelkums, is really the first +country of Asben. As we entered the valley our +people kept up a running fire, to alarm any one +who might feel disposed to attack us. We had +been so much accustomed to inhospitality and robbers +of late, that we confidently expected further +difficulties as soon as we met with the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>After a march of four hours we arrived, and +encamped in the neighbourhood of Seloufeeat. +The valley has quite a Soudan appearance, but +solely on account of the presence of the doom palm. +There are, however, a considerable number of other +trees, particularly the souak, the branches of which +are eaten voraciously by our camels. It has beautiful +green foliage, and is very bushy and spreading. +Wheat, and ghaseb, and other grain are grown in +the valley, where there is abundance of good water. +The wells are like those of Ghadamez,—that is to +say, an upright beam with a long cross-pole, having a +stone at one end and a rope and bucket at the other, +serves to bring up the water.</p> + +<p>We found here a caravan about to proceed +direct to Mourzuk, and I seized the opportunity to<a name="page239" id="page239"></a><span class="pageno">[239]</span> +write by it to Government and to my wife. During +the night some mischievous people again drove away +all the camels of the Kailouees, as well as ours. This +disturbed us much, and we anticipated fresh extortion +and plunder; but we were assured that we had +now nothing serious to apprehend.</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—We stopped here all day to get back our +camels. The caravan was delayed, and I wrote a +detailed account of our two affairs to Government.</p> + +<p>A nephew of Sultan En-Noor came to Seloufeeat +this morning, having heard, probably, of our arrival. +By him I wrote to En-Noor, from whom +we expect an answer to-morrow.</p> + +<p>In the evening eleven camels of the Kailouees +were still missing, and six of ours. Nevertheless, +our people determined to go on next morning. I +felt much discouraged this evening. A succession of +bad affairs was constantly contradicting the assurances +of our escort and their friends; the people of Seloufeeat +were also excessively troublesome: there seemed +no one in the place having authority. At last, near +sunset, came forward a certain Haj Bashaw, declaring +that we had all been too badly treated, and +he would obtain for us redress. This man has +considerable wealth, and is in constant communication +with Mourzuk, where he sends numbers of +slaves, and possesses property. He probably began +to quake for his property in Mourzuk, fearing the +Turks would make reprisals. I went to bed with +the assurance of this man that he would get back for<a name="page240" id="page240"></a><span class="pageno">[240]</span> +us our camels; nevertheless, having been deceived a +thousand times, I had my misgivings. Yet I did not +forget we had twice been delivered out of the hands +of bandits by our escort and friends, so that we +ought not to despair of seeing a brighter and a +quieter time. After midnight I had a few hours +of refreshing sleep.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote10" id="footnote10"></a><a href="#anchor10">[10]</a> Those people are sometimes called Haghar, and sometimes +Azgher, in the journal. The latter appellation is probably the correct +one in this case.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page241" id="page241"></a><span class="pageno">[241]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter15" id="chapter15"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Leave Seloufeeat—"City of Marabouts"—Fair Promises—People +of Aheer—Aspect of the Country—Extraordinary Reports—A +Flying Saint—Prophecies—A Present—Expense of our forced +Passage—Hopes—Fears—The Marabouts—Geology—The +coming down of the Wady—Inundation—Restoration of our +Camels—Maharees from En-Noor—El-Fadeea—Arab +Tuaricks—Maghata—Picturesque Wady—Rainy Season—Another Flood—Dangerous +Position—Kailouees and Blacks—The Escort +arrives—The Marabout Population—Reported Brigands—The +Walad Suleiman—Pleasant Valley—Escort leave us—Difficulty +of satisfying them—Robbery—Proceed to Tintalous—Encampment—The +Sultan—A Speech—We wait in vain for Supper—Want +of Food.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Aug. 29th.</i>—I rose early, and heard the good news +that the camels missing in the first affair were found +and brought to our people. This filled everybody +with good spirits, and we got off as soon as we could +from Seloufeeat. We were obliged to leave the boat +in the charge of a faithful inhabitant, to fetch as soon, +as we arrived at Tintaghoda. Before starting, Haj +Bashaw made Yusuf write a letter in his name to +Mourzuk, to the Bashaw Mustapha and Makersee, +declaring that he had not had any news of us or<a name="page242" id="page242"></a><span class="pageno">[242]</span> +our coming, but that now we should be conducted +safely up to the country of En-Noor. This is the only +man who seems to have any authority in Seloufeeat: +the marabouts could do little before he came forward; +the people live in the wildest state of lawless +independence.</p> + +<p>In the morning before starting, the Sfaxee and +Yusuf came up to me and said, "All up to now was +lies; but henceforth all is truth. You have nothing +more to fear—there is nothing now but good." This +speech I most devoutly devoured, and things certainly +wore a brighter aspect this morning. But we +now anxiously wait news from En-Noor.</p> + +<p>We moved up the valley of Seloufeeat, our spirits +buoyant and mounting high, whilst the air of the +morning was soft and fresh, not unlike that of Italy. +After two hours we arrived at the City of Marabouts, +or Tintaghoda.</p> + +<p>There is considerable variety in the physiognomy +of the people of Aheer, whom we have already seen; +but in general, they have agreeable countenances: +and as to stature, many of them are very tall, though +apparently not very robust. Some are of light olive +complexion, with straight noses and thin lips; but +others, indeed the great number, approximate to the +negro in feature.</p> + +<p>This portion of Aheer is still poor in provisions. +Indeed, all these districts are strictly Saharan. +There are fine fertile valleys, but between them are +rocks and complete deserts; the trees, which somewhat<a name="page243" id="page243"></a><span class="pageno">[243]</span> +change from the aspect of those in Central +Sahara, are the immensely large tholukhs, some of +them covered with parasitical plants; the doom palm, +and the souak tree. I have also seen the ethel +hereabouts.</p> + +<p>The houses of Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have, +however, a true African aspect, being thatched with +leaves of the doom palm. Some of them are sheds, +with a roof supported by four poles, under which the +people repose in the shade by day and by night +shelter themselves from noxious vapours.</p> + +<p>The most extraordinary reports are beginning to +circulate about us and our affairs. It has been confidently +spread about that the three Azgher, who +followed us from Tajetterat, had a letter in their +possession, which they were to show to all the population +beyond the Ghât territory, written by Khanouhen, +to the effect that we were to be murdered, +as soon as we got beyond that territory, by whomsoever +the attempt might be made.</p> + +<p>Another report is, that the sixty maharees, said +to have been in pursuit of us at Taghajeet, did +actually arrive at that district, but finding us too +far ahead for them they returned; they came by the +way of Tuat. These Haghars were to have fallen +upon us during the night, and murdered all of us, +even the Tanelkums, except Oud-el-Khair and two +others. There is a route which leads direct to +Tuat from Taghajeet, and also another from Aisou +to Tuat.<a name="page244" id="page244"></a><span class="pageno">[244]</span></p> + +<p>With regard to the marabouts, they seem quiet +enough. It would appear there is an enormous +fellow amongst them, who every year, during one +night, flies to Mekka and back again.</p> + +<p>They report to the people that, insomuch as we +are recommended by the great Sultan of the Turks, +Abd-el-Majeed, by the Pasha of Tripoli, and all his +marabouts, by the Pasha and great marabouts of +Mourzuk, by all the big and mighty people of Ghât +and the Haghars, but more especially as they have +found our names written in their books, and that we +were to come to them and visit their holy city,—with +a thousand other such reasons—they (the marabouts) +have determined to receive us with open +arms. The marabouts of all countries pretend to +find events written plainly, or shadowed forth, in +their books.</p> + +<p>After giving away about a hundred and fifty +pounds sterling, the greatest part, however, forced +gifts, we have received our first present in Aheer, +viz. two melons, some onions, and a small quantity of +wheat this evening, from Haj Bashaw, the influential +man of Seloufeeat, already mentioned. There is +still a drawback in this, for the giver knew the father +of Yusuf, and was anxious to show favour to his +son, my interpreter. But the fact must be recorded +as something wonderful.</p> + +<p>The people of our caravan, escort and camel-drivers, +offer us nothing; to them it would appear a +sin to give anything to a Christian. Such are the<a name="page245" id="page245"></a><span class="pageno">[245]</span> +people we travel with. In regard to the matter of +presents, God give me patience with them.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—There is no answer from En-Noor, nor +are our camels forthcoming; which things naturally +cause us anxiety. But let us hope for the best, and +pray to God to deliver us from all our misfortunes.</p> + +<p>We wait here to-day to see the results, and proceed +to-morrow. This morning I made the account +of the forced passage of the expedition from Taghajeet +to this place (Marabouteen). It amounts to the +enormous sum of nine hundred mahboubs—more than +one hundred and fifty pounds sterling! I do not know +what Government will think of it; but the expenditure +incurred was certainly to save our lives.</p> + +<p>I gave this morning more presents to our +servants, and lectured them on their duties. All +things considered, they have behaved very well. +When they saw the great quantity of goods given +away or forced from us by strangers, they naturally +began to think what there would be left for them, +who always remained with us, and worked for us.</p> + +<p>The being chief of an expedition of this kind is +certainly no sinecure; but I am sure that no one +who has not occupied a similar post can conceive +the anxieties and disquietudes under which I have +laboured during all these difficult days. Almost +ever since our departure from Ghât we have been in +fear, either for our lives or our property. Danger +has ever hung hovering over us, sometimes averted, +sometimes seeming to be turned into smoke; but<a name="page246" id="page246"></a><span class="pageno">[246]</span> +within this week the strokes of ill fortune have fallen +upon us with increasing fury. We try to persuade +ourselves that there is now nothing more to fear, +and every one joins in nursing what may be a +delusion.</p> + +<p>The marabouts indulge the vain hope that, +through the influence of the great En-Noor of +Tintalous, we may yet become Muslims. It would +appear that the whole of the inhabitants of the +village of Tintaghoda are marabouts, and so the +race of saints is propagated from generation to +generation. Generally, the children of the marabouts +are good-looking. It is said that some of the +mischievous boys were the parties who drove off our +cattle.</p> + +<p>In spite of all the sanctity of this place, and its +reputation that it is free from theft, En-Noor of +our escort told us yesterday evening to watch well +during the night, that our things might not be +stolen.</p> + +<p>We Christians cannot trust our things here. +The Sfaxee, however, leaves his goods in the place, +and will go with us to-morrow. Tintaghoda may +be a safe dépôt for Muslims, not for Christians.</p> + +<p>I have omitted to notice in its proper place, but +may record here, that one of the free black females +was lost for a couple of days in the desert, and recovered +after the disaster.</p> + +<p>Whatever we have yet seen of Aheer in a geological +point of view, shows that it is essentially a region<a name="page247" id="page247"></a><span class="pageno">[247]</span> +of granite rocks, between which are a series of fine +valleys, running one into another. The granite is in +great varieties; there are four specimens of granite +marble; some pieces of pure limestone marble have +also been collected; the granite rocks are blackened +by the sun and atmosphere, and wear the appearance +of basalt.</p> + +<p>About four o'clock this afternoon there was a cry +in the encampment—not that the Haghar were +coming—not that another troop of robbers and +wild people were advancing upon us to attack us; +but the cry was, "<i>El wady jaee!</i>" "The wady is +coming!" Going out to look, I saw a broad white +sheet of foam advancing from the south between the +trees of the valley. In ten minutes after a river of +water came pouring along, and spread all around +us, converting the place of our encampment into an +isle of the valley. The current in its deepest part +was very powerful, capable of carrying away sheep +and cattle, and of uprooting trees. This is one of +the most interesting phenomena I have witnessed +during my present tour in Africa. The scene, +indeed, was perfectly African. Rain had been observed +falling in the south; black clouds and +darkness covered that zone of the heavens; and +an hour afterwards came pouring down this river +of water into the dry, parched-up valley. This +incident of Wady Tintaghoda explains the Scriptural +phrase, "rivers of waters;" for here indeed was a +river of water, appearing in an instant, and almost<a name="page248" id="page248"></a><span class="pageno">[248]</span> +without notice. It is not, however, necessary to +come to the frontiers of Soudan to witness phenomena, +of this nature. Even in Morocco similar +sudden floodings occur every rainy season.</p> + +<p>We had been some time employed in watching +this singular scene, when another cry was heard. +This was the announcement that our camels +were coming,—certainly a piece of good news that +we had been anxiously expecting; but it had often +been given before, and after the first excitement +we began to feel the sickness of disappointment. +However, four of our camels were in reality brought +in; there yet remain out two of ours and three +belonging to the Kailouees. However, our spirits +begin now really to revive. We learn that this act +of restitution is attributable to the marabouts.</p> + +<p>I went to bed on receiving this news; but I had +not rested long before Dr. Barth called out, "Have +you heard what has happened? Twenty-eight maharees +are arrived from En-Noor." On further inquiries, +I learned that the Sultan had sent us an +escort of twenty men mounted, and eight on foot; +but rain having fallen and still continuing to fall, and +the fact of our being surrounded by water, prevented +the approach of these troops to the encampment. +The intelligence of their arrival was brought by a +man well known to the Tanelkums. In the afternoon +we had heard that En-Noor had received a +confused account of our two encounters with the +armed bands, and that we had been destroyed by<a name="page249" id="page249"></a><span class="pageno">[249]</span> +them, or nearly so, but had not yet received our +courier. This circumstance tranquillised us. We +had been anxiously expecting news from En-Noor. +The people always speak of maharees, and not of +mounted men; so that twenty maharees are twenty +men mounted on maharees. It rained this evening +and during the night: everything was damp around +us. We now begin to feel, indeed, that we are in a +humid atmosphere.</p> + +<p><i>31st.</i>—I rose early, but it rained hard, and everybody +kept within tent. I am much delighted with +my double Bornou tent, for, although it is nothing +but a species of gauze cotton-work, it still keeps +out the rain.</p> + +<p>We are collecting the names and qualities of the +chief among our assailants, as we shall have to make +a formal complaint against them, not only in order +to obtain restitution for our goods, but for the sake +of any future travellers. The people who first +attacked us are called El-Fadeea, or El-Fadayan, +and are styled by Yusuf <i>Arab</i> Tuaricks, or Tuaricks +living in tents. This tribe was joined by bandits +and a few adventurers from all the surrounding +districts.</p> + +<p>The people of the second attack are called +Aghazar: these are also Arab Tuaricks, or people +living in tents. They were joined by people from +Seloufeeat, Tintaghoda, and all the neighbouring +places.</p> + +<p>The people appear to have gathered all confusedly<a name="page250" id="page250"></a><span class="pageno">[250]</span> +together, headed by their chiefs and countenanced +by the marabouts, to destroy the Infidels who were +come to pollute their country; but, undoubtedly, +the major part were excited against us by the hope +of plunder.</p> + +<p>All the inhabitants of Ghanet<a name="anchor11" id="anchor11"></a><a href="#footnote11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> are Maghata, or +descendants of the children of the Tuaricks, Haghar +and Azgher, which were born to them by their slaves. +It is these Maghata who were said to be in pursuit +of us under Sidi Jafel. There are many of the +same people in the open desert, for the most part +bandits, or at least inclined to that way of life. +They levy contributions on the caravans, and on the +settled people when they can venture.</p> + +<p>The valley, which embraces Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, +is said to extend, by a series of connexions, +as far as Zinder,—probably a fanciful connexion of +the people. It is a most picturesque wady, lined +with black granite rocks, some rising high into +castellated peaks on the south-east, with a lower +range of hills on the north-west. It is not above +half a mile wide in its mean breadth; herbage does +not abound over all its bed, but trees cover its +surface. The water is mostly rain water; here and +there, however, springs are found. All the water is +good, and copious in supply.</p> + +<p>If we may judge from what we have seen of +the marks of late rains in these districts, and the<a name="page251" id="page251"></a><span class="pageno">[251]</span> +freshness of the herbage, the rainy season is just +beginning in Aheer. There is not yet very abundant +herbage, but it will soon greatly increase.</p> + +<p>The rain continues to pour in torrents, the +boundary mountains on either hand are scarcely +visible, and a watery vapour prevents us from +tracing the course of the valley. We have hitherto +had to struggle against mental anxieties, against +fatigues, heat, drought, and thirst: we have now +to contend with rain and with floods. Everything +is becoming awfully damp, and everybody looks +awfully dismal. I can see, from the lugubrious +countenances of the Kailouees and the blacks, that +the rainy season is their real winter. They go +shivering about, and seem as if they were half +drowned. Our Bornou gauze-cotton tent still bears +up well, however, and keeps out the rain.</p> + +<p>I was engaged in admiring the tent, and in reflecting +on the changed region into which we had +entered—a region of luxuriant vegetation and +watery atmosphere—when there was again a wild +holloa of "The floods are pouring down upon us! +The wady is coming!" Our people, however, contented +themselves at first with shouting, and made no +preparations for the advancing flood; but in a short +time they found it necessary to bestir themselves, +and began to make dams and dykes, with the aid +of sticks and hatches. These expedients proved +of no avail. The waters swelled wildly up, higher +and higher, and sheets of foaming waves came<a name="page252" id="page252"></a><span class="pageno">[252]</span> +whirling in amongst us. I called out to Yusuf +to select some high ground at once, to which our +goods might be conveyed. He calmly replied, +"The people still stay where they are;" implying +that there was no danger, that the inundation +would subside like the former one, and that we +should escape with a wetting. Not so, however. +All the low parts of the valley were already covered +with a turbid stream, that broke fiercely round the +trunks of the trees; and at length the mounting +tide threatened our tent. Yusuf then made a little +child's dam around, as if in sport; but in a few +minutes this was swept away, and we found ourselves +standing in the water.</p> + +<p>It was now absolutely necessary to move; and +our people, who seemed until then to have been +paralysed by the humidity, as we in northern climates +sometimes are with cold, began to bestir +themselves, and to transfer our tents and baggage +to a piece of ground which rose considerably above +the level of the valley, and was surrounded with +rushing waters. The remainder of the caravan +imitated us, and we soon saw them all occupying +the summits of little islands, whither the camels, +at least such as did not instinctively take refuge +there themselves, were also driven. This was a +good opportunity of seeing a specimen of African +character. The Kailouees made no preparation for +the deluge until the last moment, and then seemed +absolutely to make the worst possible. They rolled<a name="page253" id="page253"></a><span class="pageno">[253]</span> +their bales of dry goods in the water as if they +were so many logs of wood, although by lifting +them up a little all might have at first been +saved quite dry. Meanwhile the black servants +were dancing, singing, and rolling about in the +waters, as if some sudden blessing had overtaken +them.<a name="anchor12" id="anchor12"></a><a href="#footnote12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> + +<p>The water still continued to rise, and to foam +over the margin of the island. We were compelled +by degrees to retreat towards the centre, +and as there was no sign of abatement, and as +the whole valley had become one rushing river, +covered with floating trees,—some shooting singly +along, others entangled into rafts or floating islands, +I began to entertain serious misgivings. Never +was there a more perfect picture of a deluge! It +was the Biblical deluge in miniature: and I calculated +with intense interest how many inches additional +rise would utterly destroy our goods, and +how many inches more peril our lives. The most +gloomy forebodings troubled me. I had always +looked forward to Aheer as a haven of safety, and +instead thereof it had proved to be a place of persecution.<a name="page254" id="page254"></a><span class="pageno">[254]</span> +When men had ceased to fight against us, +nature began. I thought I could hear the fanatical +people of Tintaghoda say one to the other, "Ah! +they saved their lives by money, but now God +comes in to punish and destroy them." Yet whilst +I stood apart and tortured myself in this wise, our +people, children of the day, who take no thought +for the morrow, satisfied that the waves had not +yet reached them, were full of merriment and +laughter, and seemed to mock the flood, that still +rose and rose, bending the largest trees, sweeping +away the brushwood, and roaring angrily around +the margin of the islands. Perhaps they knew +that their lives, at least, were safe; whilst I reflected +that, if even we could swim to shore, leaving +our property to the wild mercies of the waves, we +should land in an enemy's country, without the +means of satisfying the cupidity of the first bandit +who chose to attack us, and would most probably +soon be sacrificed.</p> + +<p>I was anxiously watching the progress of the +inundation when at last it seemed to be checked, +and no longer to rise. God had not, then, +abandoned us, and we were not driven from the +fire to the waters to perish! The flood remained +stationary for awhile, still rolling along the valley, +which it seemed to fill from side to side; then we +noticed a slight decrease, then a progressive and +rapid one: hope buoyed up our spirits, and we +thanked the Almighty for our deliverance. As I<a name="page255" id="page255"></a><span class="pageno">[255]</span> +have mentioned, I have seen floods before, but never +one on so grand a scale as this, which was truly +African in its magnitude and character.</p> + +<p>As if Providence were now resolved to visit us +with marked favour, just at the moment when the +waters began visibly to decrease, and patches of +land to appear here and there, the escort sent by +Sultan En-Noor came riding over the neighbouring +heights. Our people discovered them, and shouted, +"See, the Kailouees! the Kailouees!"</p> + +<p>The waters rose above the general surface of the +wady full two feet and a-half. Had this deluge +come during the night we should scarcely have +saved ourselves; or, at any rate, the greater part +of our property and our camels must have perished. +The power of such a body of water rushing along is +tremendous. A great number of houses of Tintaghoda +were carried away, and the inhabitants declared +that they never remembered such an occurrence +to have happened before. I can well believe +them, otherwise the site of the town would have been +changed for higher ground. Trees numberless +were uprooted, and brought down by the mighty +current, which must have considerably altered the +appearance of the valley. We could already see +that the earth was ploughed up in all directions; +and when the inundation was at its height, serious +fears were entertained lest the island on which +we stood should itself be swept from under our +feet.<a name="page256" id="page256"></a><span class="pageno">[256]</span></p> + +<p>When the waters had subsided a little the +nephew of En-Noor came to us from the town, +to see our situation. He then went to meet the +Maharees which had arrived from his uncle, and +soon sent to tell us that all was right, that this party +came purposely to afford us protection, and that it +included the sons of En-Noor, their nephews, and a +son-in-law, besides many household servants; in +all, thirty-one men mounted, and the rest on foot.</p> + +<p>In the evening we moved out of the valley, and +encamped on the high ground. The rain continued +to incommode us. The things of the Germans +were all wet—I managed to keep mine dry; but +our sense of security now kept up our spirits.</p> + +<p>Towards the evening the whole male population +came out of the town to see the ravages of water, +and learn how we fared. There might be fifty +persons, men and boys. These marabouts pretend +that when they first saw the escort of En-Noor, +they thought it was an enemy come to attack us +whilst isolated by the floods of rain.</p> + +<p>They said there were some hundred bandits and +other lawless men collected behind the rocks, waiting +for us, but on seeing the escort of En-Noor +they had retired by small numbers. Certainly +there may have been some twenty or thirty such +people, and, undoubtedly, the escort of En-Noor +produced a salutary effect upon these brigands, as +well as upon the holy maraboutee population who +drove away our camels.<a name="page257" id="page257"></a><span class="pageno">[257]</span></p> + +<p>When at the Marabouteen, as Tintaghoda is +called, a very fine gold-embroidered waistcoat was +brought by the escort of En-Noor to me, to ask what +it was worth. I guessed about two hundred reals; +Yusuf thought the same. It appeared that this +waistcoat was the property of Abd-el-Galeel, and was +taken as plunder during the last expedition of the +Kailouees against the Walad Suleiman. There are +several slaves also at Seloufeeat, who once were the +property of these Arabs. According to the report +of the Kailouees they have destroyed all the Walad +Suleiman,—killed them every one. They went +against the Arabs ten thousand strong; some of +the enemy, however, are said to have died of hunger. +It is, besides, reported that the people of +Bornou assisted in their destruction. Abd-el-Galeel +himself is rumoured to have been killed. +Evidently many of the unfortunate Arabs have +been surprised, and many of them slaughtered; but +I cannot believe in their total annihilation. We +shall be better informed at Zinder and Kuka.</p> + +<p><i>Sept. 1st.</i>—We started late, on account of our +things being all wet. The morning was as favourable +for drying as the day before had been for wetting, +there being a high wind with sunshine. We journeyed +on five hours and a-half, and encamped near some +pools of water. A cascade during rainy weather +shoots down from the highest tops of the rocky +mountains.</p> + +<p>Before us was a pleasant valley, wherein were<a name="page258" id="page258"></a><span class="pageno">[258]</span> +the ruins of huts that had been carried away by +the waters. Ferajee invited me to visit the Water +with him, and I went. In this neighbourhood +the rocky heights assumed their boldest forms, +many of the peaks being considerably elevated; all +granite.</p> + +<p>Some people were heard in the evening, when +dark, and we fired several shots. The Tanelkums +had seen men skulking behind the rocks during +our short march.</p> + +<p><i>2d.</i>—We rose early, and made a march of +eight hours and a-half: country as yesterday. Our +Kailouee escort left us at noon, to go to Aghooou +and Janazaret, or Zanairas, their homes. I must +write the characters of En-Noor, Deedee, and +Ferajee hereafter. They are pretty well fixed in my +memory. These individuals are amongst the number +of persons who "turned out," to use the vulgar expression, +better than we anticipated from their +first transactions with us.</p> + +<p>On encamping, Mohammed, the son-in-law of +En-Noor, came to my tent, and told Yusuf that +we must now pay for our escort, as we were within a +few hours of Tintalous, and did not require it more; +also that the people wished to go to their homes, +for they had been collected from various parts of +the country. I must observe, that, considering the +time that elapsed between the departure of the +courier from Seloufeeat and the arrival of the +escort at Tintaghoda, these people had been collected<a name="page259" id="page259"></a><span class="pageno">[259]</span> +very quickly, which showed En-Noor to be a man +of business and authority.</p> + +<p>I expected we should have some trouble to +satisfy thirty-one people. Yusuf, aided by the +Tanelkums, sorted out about eighty-seven reals' +worth of goods. This was offered as sufficient, but +did not content even the chief persons, much less +the smaller gentlemen. We then added another +burnouse, and other things, making up about one +hundred reals. This the chiefs accepted; but not so +the little men. They stormed and swore; and +some of them even ran to seize our bales of goods. +However, whatever we had given we should have +had the same results, and we must expect similar +quarrels all through Africa until our journey's end. +I observed, at last, that many took their portions +and retired, and I felt confident that all would finish +without violence being done us.</p> + +<p>When I had been in bed two hours, half-sleeping +and half-waking, I turned round my head, and saw +my tent full of people. I had not heard them come +in. They were the Germans, Yusuf, Mohammed +Tunisee, and other people. They were all busy examining +the scattered contents of a bale of goods. +I asked what was the matter, and was told briefly +that some of the <i>canaille</i> of our escort had carried +away a bale of Dr. Barth's goods, but that the +chief had made them restore the greater part of the +spoil. In the first moments I could not help laughing. +It was certainly comical to be robbed by one's<a name="page260" id="page260"></a><span class="pageno">[260]</span> +own escort. We had now thirty-one chaouches for +two whom we obtained in Tripoli. On this I went +to sleep.</p> + +<p><i>3d.</i>—Early in the morning Mohammed En-Noor +paid me a visit, and promised me that all the +things should be restored—not the smallest thing +should be lost.</p> + +<p>I looked about, and saw that the greater number +of our escort had disappeared during the night, +and gone to their homes. We now commenced our +last stage to Tintalous. Mounted on my camel, I +could not help reflecting that we were tormented to +the very doors of the dwelling of En-Noor, that the +people seemed determined we should have no rest +till we arrived there. Afterwards, peradventure, +we may find a little repose; but who can tell?</p> + +<p>The rain incommoded us as we advanced. +However, in two hours we arrived at the little village +of Asara, where half-a-dozen inhabitants greeted +us with a stare; and an hour afterwards entered the +broad and spacious valley of Tintalous, firing a +salute as we did so, in compliment to the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>We had heard much of the great city of Tintalous; +and I confess that, though accustomed to +desert exaggerations, my mind had dwelt upon this +place so long, that I expected a much more imposing +sight than that which presented itself. This +mighty capital consisted of a mass of houses and +huts, which we calculated to be no more than a<a name="page261" id="page261"></a><span class="pageno">[261]</span> +hundred and fifty in number, situated in the middle +of the valley, with trees here and there interspersed. +It was nothing but a large village. Still, as the +termination of our journey for the present, and its +bearing a name which has been hitherto thrown down +at haphazard anywhere towards the centre of the +southern Sahara, we hailed it with delight. Both +huts and houses wore a truly Soudan character, +and I felt that to a certain extent the object of the +Mission was already accomplished.</p> + +<p>Mohammed En-Noor chose us out a good place +for an encampment, upon some sand-hills overlooking +the entire country. When we had pitched +tent, Mr. Yusuf Moknee was despatched to carry +our compliments to the great man of the town, +Sultan En-Noor. This distinguished personage he +found laid up with rheumatism, and unable to receive +us as we desired. However, he expressed a wish to +see Dr. Overweg in his character of medical man, +and made a long harangue to Yusuf, the substance +of which was, that inasmuch as we had come from +Constantinople,<a name="anchor13" id="anchor13"></a><a href="#footnote13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> from Tripoli, from Fezzan, from +Ghât, in peace and safety, why should he think of +eating us up and destroying us, like the people of +Taghajeet and others?—"No; let the Christians +rest in peace. I will now protect them—let them +not fear. If I had not been ill, I would have come +myself, and fetched them from Taghajeet, and no +one should have touched them. Now, I will take<a name="page262" id="page262"></a><span class="pageno">[262]</span> +them myself to Zinder, or send my sons with them. +They shall be protected on their journey to Bornou +and Soudan."</p> + +<p>I shall only observe on this, that I do not think +Sultan En-Noor could have brought us clear through +the countries of Taghajeet and Tidek. We might +have paid something less, but we must have paid. +However, we felt glad on hearing the report of this +speech, and waited patiently for the evening supper +of the great man; but it did not come, to our great +disappointment. The Tanelkums said that this +was a kind of home for them, and that En-Noor +always sent them a supper on the evening of their +arrival. When I saw these good people supperless, +I considered that En-Noor would not give one +supper without the other, and was not prepared for +both.</p> + +<p>We felt our case to be rather hard, especially +the Germans; for they had nothing of their own to +eat but dry kuskusou and onions. I was a little +better off. We could get nothing from the town +during the day, not even a fowl or eggs, nor even a +bit of cheese.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, we had been told that everything +was abundant in this place. It appears all the +sheep are at a distance, out to graze; as for bullocks, +there are none. Dr. Overweg drew out his bottle +of port wine, and we three Europeans soon made +an end of that, and retired for the night in pretty +good spirits.<a name="page263" id="page263"></a><span class="pageno">[263]</span></p> + +<p>Dr. Overweg and Yusuf calculated the number +of people who were reported to be in pursuit of us +from Tajetterat to the Marabouteen, at three hundred +and sixty. The passage of the expedition from +Tajetterat to Tintalous has cost the Government +about one hundred and fifty pounds sterling, at the +least. I cannot get over this. However, let us +raise our hearts in thankfulness to Almighty Providence, +who still watches over us, preserves our +health, and saves us from destruction.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote11" id="footnote11"></a><a href="#anchor11">[11]</a> This is the oasis of Janet, mentioned +previously.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote12" id="footnote12"></a><a href="#anchor12">[12]</a> The black people of Central Africa, whose character and opinions +we do not yet understand, seem to take peculiar delight in those very +natural phenomena which civilised nations regard as disastrous. +Among other instances, I have seen an old negress, usually gloomy +and taciturn, quite intoxicated by an earthquake. Whilst others +were thinking of their safety, she ran about the courtyard on her +hands and feet, rolling over, laughing and whooping, as if she were a +devil and this was news from the infernal regions.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote13" id="footnote13"></a><a href="#anchor13">[13]</a> Where he got this news I cannot tell.</p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page264" id="page264"></a><span class="pageno">[264]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter16" id="chapter16"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Promises of the Sultan—Yellow-painted Women—Presents—Anecdotes—Prepare +to visit En-Noor—Our Reception—Dialogue—Seeming +Liberality of the Sultan—Greediness of his People—No +Provisions to be got—Fat Women—Nephew of the Sultan—Tanelkum +Beggars—Weather—A Divorced Lady—Aheer Money—Our +Camels again stolen—Account of the Tanelkums—Huckster +Women—Aheer Landscape—Various Causes of +Annoyance—No News of the Camels—Anecdote of my +Servants—Storms—Revolution in the Desert—Name of the Country—Dr. +Overweg—Money and Tin—Saharan Signs—Habits of the +Rain—Burial of a Woman—Demands of Es-Sfaxee—Salt-cakes +of Bilma—People of Tintalous—Wild Animals—List of Towns +and Villages—Population of Aheer and Ghât.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Sept. 4th.</i>—This morning I sent Yusuf with our recommendations +to En-Noor. He returned in the +best possible humour, repeating that the Sultan was +determined to protect us, and see us safe to Soudan +and Bornou.</p> + +<p>A freed black came into my tent, played on his +one-stringed fiddle, and sang an extempore song for +the protection of the Consul. I gave him a handkerchief. +It appears that he is from Tunis.</p> + +<p>Yesterday, some specimens of the women of the +lower classes of this town came to our encampment.<a name="page265" id="page265"></a><span class="pageno">[265]</span> +I was astonished to see them such barbarians as to +daub their faces with yellow ochre. I did not expect +this in the Mahommedan country of Aheer. They +had a little ghaseb, a few onions, and other little +things to barter. It is the most difficult thing in +the world to deal with them; and it requires as +long to exchange things of the value of a penny, as +for two London merchants to agree about merchandise +of the value of a hundred thousand pounds!</p> + +<p>When I had paid the En-Noor escort, I made a +present to Yusuf and Saïd. To the former I gave +a fine burnouse (value thirty-four mahboubs), and +told him I did so as a compensation for the extraordinary +difficulties which we had encountered on +the road from Ghât to Aheer, but that I could not +write to Government for a present for him unless +we could make some treaties with the inhabitants +and princes of Central Africa. To Saïd I gave a +veneese and a lecture. Our servants have not behaved +so well as they ought to have done, considering that +they are treated so much better than the servants of +Muslims.</p> + +<p>Anecdotes of our late adventures are still in circulation +amongst us, and I have learned some new +ones to-day. The <i>naïveté</i> of one of them is extreme; +but I can do more than allude to it. One of our +party transgressed a custom which the Mahommedans +have absurdly made obligatory. Great indignation +was excited, even amongst the escort sent for +our protection by En-Noor; and one of them exclaimed:<a name="page266" id="page266"></a><span class="pageno">[266]</span> +"If he do the same thing again, and +do not follow the way of us Muslims, I will +send an arrow through him."</p> + +<p>During the night of the second affair, Oud-el-Khair +used this nice argument: "What will be +gained if you do kill these three Christians? There +are plenty more in the English country!" Many +topics of a similar character were resorted to.</p> + +<p>Some of the Tanelkums leave us to-day. We +have to pay them two reals a camel-load for bringing +us from Tintaghoda to Tintalous. We have +hired of them eleven camels in all. The original +agreement was to carry our goods and baggage +from Mourzuk to Tintaghoda, for which we paid +dear.</p> + +<p>Having heard that the great En-Noor would +receive me to-day or to-morrow, as I pleased, I determined +at once to see him, and made ready the +presents for his highness. We had some difficulty +in making the selection. At length we amassed a +variety of things, of the value of one hundred and +twenty-two mahboubs prime cost, or about fifty-two +reals value here.</p> + +<p>At the Asar (or 3 P.M.) I dressed, and went off +to see the great man, accompanied by my German +colleagues. On entering the village, I at once recognised +in a long mud-shed the Sultan's palace. +It seemed, indeed, a palace compared with the circular +hasheesh huts by which it was surrounded; and in +that direction, accordingly, we bent our steps. On<a name="page267" id="page267"></a><span class="pageno">[267]</span> +gaining admission, we found the mighty potentate +half-dozing on his couch. He woke up as we entered, +and sitting upon his hams, politely excused +himself for being found <i>en déshabille</i>. To remedy +this state of things as much as possible, he immediately +wound round his head a black band or turban; +and having thus improved his toilet, bade us +sit down. I took my place very near him, and +observed his appearance with some interest. He +was a venerable-looking black, but, like most of +the Kailouees, had something of an European cast +of features. They say he is about seventy-eight +years old, and manifestly suffers the infirmities of +that great age.</p> + +<p>The dialogue was begun by the Sultan asking us +how we were in health, and whether we had not +now more quiet than down on the road? Then he +added, that he was himself very poorly, but that at +this season of the year this was nothing uncommon. +Being in a garrulous mood, he allowed us little time +to reply, and went on with a string of compliments. +Of the state of his own country he said, "There is +now a general fermentation throughout all the districts +of Aheer. The people have thrown off the +yoke of their sultans or magistrates, and the roads +are infested with bands of robbers." In fact, it +would appear that the inhabitants of this out-of-the +way kingdom have just fallen into the crisis of a +revolution. What grievances brought about this +state of things we have not yet learned; but, unfortunately<a name="page268" id="page268"></a><span class="pageno">[268]</span> +for us, we have arrived at a most insecure +season.</p> + +<p>Of the people of his own district the Sultan +said, "You have nothing to fear from them, except +that thieves may come in the night. Beware of +them; and fall upon any one who may come near +your tents after dark. There may be people who +will slink from the neighbouring towns to rob you; +take care and watch during the night." Upon this +I asked him for a couple of servants as guards, but +he replied that it was not necessary.</p> + +<p>Of the Tanelkums he observed: "It will be +better when they are gone, for many strangers +come to them, known neither to you nor to me; +and they may rob you." This was an excellent +observation, for on the road I always found that the +Haghar strangers, the bandits, and all the idle, low +characters, who might follow the caravan, never +failed to make friends with our Tanelkums, and +thus gained a footing to carry on their treacherous +designs.</p> + +<p>The greater part of the interview was thus occupied +by a little oration on the part of this respectable +Sultan, who wound up by saying that he hoped, +if it pleased God, that we should now enjoy some +repose, and afterwards be conducted safely to Zinder +and Soudan.</p> + +<p>Observing that the dialogue was flagging, I +caused the presents we had brought with us to be +laid out. The Sultan examined all the articles<a name="page269" id="page269"></a><span class="pageno">[269]</span> +carefully and quietly, but said not a word. Then +his son-in-law informed us aside that it was now time +to retire. We did so with many compliments, trusting +that our visit had produced a favourable impression. +I was very anxious to know what was +thought of the present,—the largest we have yet +given, much larger than what was received by +either Hateetah or Wataitee. I sent two of my +servants about to pick up the news in town. I was +not disappointed; I hoped to please his highness, +and succeeded. He was greatly delighted; and, +moreover, displayed immense generosity for an +African. Immediately we had retired he called +together all the great people of the town, and thus +addressed them: "See the fine present these Christians +have brought me. I shall, however, only take +a blue burnouse for myself. The rest I give to +you. Take all else." The notables were greatly +pleased at being called in to share in the gifts, and +exclaimed, "The Consul is a fine man; a man of a +large heart." So far, so good. But some of the +lesser men were heard to say, "Ah! now the +Christians are in peace, and yet they give us nothing. +How much did they give away, and yet get +no rest!" Sure enough; but having been thus +forcedly generous, we had now scarcely anything left +to give. It would require a thousand camel-loads +to satisfy all the tribes and people in this route, +even if their exigencies did not rise in proportion to +our wealth.<a name="page270" id="page270"></a><span class="pageno">[270]</span></p> + +<p>We have not yet been able to procure any provisions +in Tintalous. After a journey of two +months, during which we have been obliged to feed +the whole caravan, Kailouees and Tanelkums, to +say nothing of the robbers and bandits, who were +pleased to levy this kind of tribute upon us, +we arrive at a friendly town, and can find nothing +to eat! This is really too bad. Fortunately, I put +away three bottles of olive oil in the spirit-boxes. +With these and my little macaroni I may manage, +perhaps, to subsist until provisions can be +found. But my servants have finished their last +<i>hemsa</i>, and the Germans have nothing left. Our +last resource is our biscuits, which I am sorry we +are obliged to eat in this early part of our journey. +This supply of biscuits has certainly cost us much +in carriage—many hard dollars; but nevertheless +we have found it excellent for our health, and it now +promises to save us from starvation. We had +heard contradictory reports on the road; some +people saying we should find everything in Aheer, +and others nothing. The latter prophecy seems +likely to turn out true.</p> + +<p>There is not much herbage about where we are, +so we are obliged to send away the camels some +distance to feed. It appears to be only the beginning +of the rainy season in Tintalous. We +have passed through much finer districts in Aheer +than this; e.g. that of Taghajeet, where we observed +fat women and fat sheep! But we have not<a name="page271" id="page271"></a><span class="pageno">[271]</span> +yet seen the enormously fat women that Mr. Gagliuffi +described. This, of course, would always be difficult +for us, except in our capacities as physicians. Dr. +Overweg has the best chance of this piece of good +luck.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—We are much troubled with a nephew of +En-Noor, the same that acted as the courier from +Seloufeeat to Tintalous. We gave him a white +burnouse, and he is worrying Yusuf to let him have +a finer and better one. This individual has given +us more trouble than anything else in Tintalous. +Little things here, as elsewhere, prove more annoying +than great things. To set matters straight, +we have offered him a better burnouse, but he is not +yet content.</p> + +<p>The Tanelkums are also very troublesome. I +always saw that we must beware of them, for they +will never let us rest, if they can help it, whilst they +are with us. Beg, beg, beg; this alone describes +their conduct towards us.</p> + +<p>All the people we have had about us seem to +have considered us their lawful prey, and seek to +gain their ends, if not by violence, at least by continual +importunities: still it must be acknowledged +that the Tanelkums rendered us considerable service +on the road. But, even without this claim, they +would, no doubt, have still pursued the same system +of eternal begging.</p> + +<p>This day and yesterday we had thunder, lightning,<a name="page272" id="page272"></a><span class="pageno">[272]</span> +and much rain. The sky was covered with +clouds, yet the thermometer rose at half-past three +in the afternoon to 82° in our tent. I walked a +little before the tent early this morning, to keep +up my bodily vigour. I had a little internal pain +yesterday. If I suffer in Africa from disease, it +will most probably be from dysentery. God grant +that I may escape, and be grateful for his mercy!</p> + +<p>Sultan En-Noor yesterday observed, respecting +the passage of Christians through these countries, +"that after a short time the feelings of the people +would subside, and nothing more be thought of us." +This may be; but it will require the passage of +many Christians before the tendency to fanaticism +is sufficiently curbed to render the road safe for +them.</p> + +<p>I mentioned in my diary at Mourzuk, that +one of our blacks had exercised the privilege of +divorce with respect to his wife. This lady did not +leave the caravan, but has since passed from tent +to tent, as the caprice of fortune carried her. +She was first taken up by Sakonteroua; then by +En-Noor, our Kailouee guide; and afterwards by +some other person. Yesterday I saw her in the +tent of the Sfaxee. The poor woman submits to +the inconstancy of Fortune with marvellous fortitude. +She is now quite merry, and inclined to play the +coquette. Poor thing! Let us be thankful for her +that she has been granted this elasticity of temper,<a name="page273" id="page273"></a><span class="pageno">[273]</span> +and that she is willing to the last to cheer +gloom of whomsoever will be cheered in return for +a little tenderness and protection.</p> + +<p>I insert a note upon the money used here:</p> + +<table summary="money"> +<tr><td>The large dollar (douro)</td><td></td><td>7 Tunisian piastres.</td></tr> +<tr><td>The small dollar</td><td></td><td>5 Tun. piast. (in Mourzuk).</td></tr> +<tr><td>The large dollar</td><td></td><td>3 metagals.</td></tr> +<tr><td>The small dollar</td><td></td><td>2 metagals (in Tintalous).</td></tr> +<tr><td>One metagal</td><td></td><td>1000 wadas (in Tintalous).</td></tr> +<tr><td>One mahboub</td><td></td><td>7 Tun. piast. (60 paras in Mourzuk and Tripoli).</td></tr> +<tr><td>One metagal</td><td></td><td>40 drâa<a name="anchor14" id="anchor14"></a><a href="#footnote14" +class="fnanchor">[14]</a> (in Aheer and Soudan).</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>I was engaged in setting down this information, +when intelligence was brought me that our camels +had again been carried off. This affront was offered +us yesterday at noon, during a storm of rain, before +my visit to the Sultan; but Yusuf had thought it +best to keep the matter concealed from me, hoping +restitution would be made before I heard of it. I +sent him immediately to lay our case before the +Sultan. So it seems that we are to be hunted here, +even, in our repose under the protection of En-Noor! +It is impossible to tell how we shall get safely to +Zinder. Our boat is still at Seloufeeat. Yusuf is +gone to see En-Noor.</p> + +<p>Naturally I feel very much annoyed about the +missing camels. They were stolen, it seems, not only +in the middle of the day, but at a distance of not +more than a quarter of a mile from the residence of<a name="page274" id="page274"></a><span class="pageno">[274]</span> +En-Noor! This is too bad, really too bad. Are +we never to have any repose?</p> + +<p>In the evening, as a slight consolation, we were +fortunate enough to purchase some provisions. The +German got two goats, and I some samen. I also +borrowed ghaseb until we could buy.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—I got up in better health this morning, +and felt the benefit of the goats'-flesh broth. I +observe that it does not rain during the night; the +showers come on generally in the afternoon. The +mornings are dry, fine, and hot. This morning, +at half-past seven A.M., the thermometer stood +under the tent at 79° Fahr.</p> + +<p>The Tanelkums, by the way, left us yesterday +evening. They all return in the course of +fifteen days; some of them go on to Zinder, and +others make their way back to Mourzuk. Haj +Omer quarrelled desperately with Yusuf before he +started.</p> + +<p>I may here make a few observations on these +curious people. Generally, the Tanelkums are +reckoned amongst the most effeminate and civilised +of the Tuaricks of the north; and, indeed, such +appears to be their character, as developed in our +transactions with them. Some of them have more +the manners of merchants than camel-drivers; and +the mercantile character always tames men in the +desert. Throughout their journey with us they +were at all times polite, and at last even became +quite amiable. During the two affairs which we<a name="page275" id="page275"></a><span class="pageno">[275]</span> +had with the robbers, their conduct was regular and +brave: once or twice only they seemed to waver. +But probably, had their own interests been imminently +exposed, they would have abandoned us to +save themselves, at which we should not have been +surprised. Had there been a regular battle, in +which they had taken part, the road would certainly +have been closed to them ever afterwards.</p> + +<p>Like all Tuaricks, these Tanelkums are great +beggars, and such of them as were with us allowed +no opportunity to escape of getting something out +of us. They are always accompanied by a few +Haghars or Azghers. In features they are for the +most part European; a few only are marked by +negro characters; but nearly all are very dark +in complexion. They are generally good-looking, +tall, and slightly made. Their manners are quite +Tuarick, and they speak a regular Tuarick dialect. +They also speak a little Arabic, and understand the +Hausa. As to religion, they are very devout and +superstitious, and remain long at their prayers.</p> + +<p>The huckster-women of the town continue to +visit us, bringing their small wares. Many of them +have their faces painted very picturesquely with +green and yellow. They are mere negroes in features. +These women bring very small quantities of +the dark-brown rice of Soudan, with ghaseb, onions, +and other little things.</p> + +<p>I find that our servants are to-day in better +spirits, because we have got a supply of provisions.<a name="page276" id="page276"></a><span class="pageno">[276]</span> +I repeat again, that the Germans and myself enjoy +tolerably good health, but none of us can be said to +be in a state of robust bodily vigour.</p> + +<p>This portion of the landscape of Aheer, if I may +use the term landscape, does not differ materially +from the first which we entered. The rocks are all +granite, and of one colour.</p> + +<p>The greater part of the trees are tholukh and +souak. The hasheesh consists chiefly of the <i>bou +rekabah</i>.</p> + +<p>In the valley I observe a fine old specimen of +the Soudan tree, called, in Bornouese, <i>kărághou</i>. +The little black-and-white bird which has followed +us all through the desert from Mourzuk still +appears here, and sings a little.</p> + +<p>It is difficult to describe the state of mind in which +I write down all these things. Here we are helplessly +encamped, our camels driven away, and no +signs of their return. Certainly En-Noor sends us +promises that he will do what he can for us; but +though we do not doubt his goodwill we begin to be +uncertain of his power. He is still suffering from +rheumatism and fever, and they tell us he is not +able to receive strangers. Let us hope that this +seclusion bodes no ill to our interests. Some of his +female relations came this morning to ask for little +presents. I gave the mother of Mohammed, who +commanded our escort, a handkerchief. This young +man has, we are told, gone out this morning alone to +search for our lost camels. Meanwhile, in the hope<a name="page277" id="page277"></a><span class="pageno">[277]</span> +that our property may be restored to us, I propose +to write to Zinder for an escort. It is better and +more agreeable to pay escorts than robbers in these +countries. But I must wait for the recovery of En-Noor. +They tell us now that there are no robbers +or bandits along the Soudan route at all; and the +proof cited is, that the smallest caravans pass in +safety. The property of Christians, however, will +probably be considered as common property, the +lawful prey of every one who may be disposed to +possess himself of it. This news of peace, therefore, +concerns us not. We may still have to buy our +way.</p> + +<p>The thermometer under the tent this evening, at +an hour after dark, was 81° Fahrenheit.</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—I rose late, after a more refreshing sleep +than usual, and felt much better in health. The +sky was overcast with thick clouds; and the thermometer +stood at 77° at seven A.M. My first question +was, whether any news had been heard of the camels; +but I only learned that on the previous day many +people had gone in search of them, scouring the +country. The servants notice that I am much +depressed, and endeavour to cheer me. On the +whole I must say that they show considerable good +feeling.</p> + +<p>I remember now with pleasure, that when we +were attacked on the road and I appeared with arms +amongst them, they always insisted upon my going +to my tent, exclaiming: "Go, O Consul, to your tent;<a name="page278" id="page278"></a><span class="pageno">[278]</span> +rest there: you shall not fight." Some added: "Let +them kill us first; then you may fight if you please: +but whilst we are living remain in your tent!" +These were not mere words, but expressed sympathy +and fidelity. I ought to mention, that all along this +journey I went among the people by the name of +Consul Yakōb, whilst Dr. Barth was known as the +Reis, and Dr. Overweg as the Taleb.</p> + +<p>On this occasion these poor fellows threw words +of consolation to me in the midst of their bartering +for provisions, which at the present moment was +their greatest care, if I except that of eating them. +They have been living on short commons, and have +suffered as much as we have. Want of regular food +may have had an effect on me. I find that my +hopes of good health are to be disappointed. I am +obliged to keep my bed this afternoon, and to refrain +from nourishment. Meanwhile a storm again comes +on, laden with sand, which covers everything. Then +follows violent rain, which lasts until late in the +evening.</p> + +<p>As I lay, troubling myself with apprehension of +the Kailouees, En-Noor of our escort came to pay +us a visit. He says he has been to his own town, +and promises us better fortune higher up towards +Soudan than we have hitherto had. He is himself +about to start with a large caravan for Zinder, in +about twenty days. Among other news, he tells us +of the progress of the insurrection. The tribes +passed some distance to our right a few days ago,<a name="page279" id="page279"></a><span class="pageno">[279]</span> +moving towards Asoudee and Aghadez, to instal a +new Sultan. The revolution is now at its height, +but may soon be brought to a close. It is fortunate +that Tintalous lay out of the way of these rude +desert revolutionists, as a visit from them might +have been attended with evil consequence to us.</p> + +<p>The excitement caused by this intelligence was a +little calmed by the report that our camels had been +heard of in the direction of Aghazar. Our friend +Mohammed is in full pursuit of them, with fair hopes +of procuring their return. En-Noor says that we +shall certainly get them back,—all; but he adds the +qualifying phrase, <i>Inshallah!</i>—if it please God! +Meanwhile "patience," as my comforter advises me. +He is quite a narrative man, and enlarges on geography. +According to him, Asben is the Soudan +name for all this country, whilst it is known as +Aheer by the people of the north.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—I felt much better this morning, having +got rid of the diarrhoea. The weather was very +damp, and the thermometer at six A.M. stood at +72°. At one o'clock it rose to 90°, but still there +was cool air flying about the tent. The sky remained +overcast all day, but birds were singing as +if it were the opening of the Aheer spring.</p> + +<p>Dr. Overweg remarks truly, that you cannot +shoot a man in this country, even if he knocks you +down and robs you; for that would be the murder +by an infidel of a Muslim, and the whole population +would rise up against you. The observation may<a name="page280" id="page280"></a><span class="pageno">[280]</span> +become a practical one of these days; and submission +will prove to be the only remedy, whatever +may happen.</p> + +<p>Another result of practical observation! We shall +have to destroy our tin biscuit-chests, for all the +people swear that they are full of money. Our own servants +go so far as to say that these chests, by exciting +the curiosity and cupidity of the people, have been +the causes of most of our misfortunes. In whatever +case, every European travelling through these countries +will be considered to have half his baggage +consisting of gold and silver. I have been telling +the people all along I have not any money, but no +one quite believes me.</p> + +<p>In this country, by the way, and all Saharan +countries where many languages are spoken, a +great deal is done by signs. The sign of the +crooked forefinger represents the crouching of man +and beast under sickness; but no sign is more common +than which represents the large Spanish dollar, +namely, forming a circle with the thumb and forefinger, +and turning the thumb downwards.</p> + +<p>Escort En-Noor, as I am obliged to distinguish +him, returns to his place this night, and takes with +him three or four camels, to give them something to +eat; they are starving here near the town. I settled +with him for the thirty-seven reals of Wataitee in +goods, not money;—so the Queen's property goes!</p> + +<p>The peculiarity of this locality at the present +season of the year appears to be, that it rains every<a name="page281" id="page281"></a><span class="pageno">[281]</span> +afternoon, beginning about three P.M.; the showers +being preceded by a few puffs of strong wind, and +continuing till an hour before dark. This is fortunate +for us, for we know how to prepare ourselves +for circumstances. Under tent we have a most +drenching dampness during the night, continuing +till the sun gets well up next morning. The people +say that the rain has given over in Soudan. The +season is, therefore, later here. The rain, if I may +use the expression, would seem now to travel north; +it has, however, began up in the higher regions surrounding +Constantine. When I was there, I believe +in August 1846, it had already set in; and +now it will soon begin in Tripoli. At nine A.M. we +begin to dry our clothes, and we get pretty well +dried and aired by the time the rain begins again in +the afternoon.</p> + +<p>The day before yesterday a woman died in Tintalous, +and was carried to the grave solely by women. +This was considered an extraordinary thing by the +Moors of the coast, but I see nothing extraordinary +in the circumstance. The fact is, the Moors +think the men ought to do everything except bear +children and perform the drudgery of the household.</p> + +<p>We have little communication with the town, +the rain cutting us off from it and its inhabitants. A +flood of water pours down the valley every evening, +after which the ground continues all night and all +next day in a state of wet mud.<a name="page282" id="page282"></a><span class="pageno">[282]</span></p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—I rose without receiving any good news. +On the contrary, Mr. Sfaxee, who has always professed +such disinterestedness, begins to hint demands. +I find that I shall have to pay him as much as the +other people. Escort En-Noor, by the way, was +delighted with the little present I made to him of a +pair of coloured scissors for his wife. The thermometer +a little after mid-day rose to 94° Fahr. and +27° 30' of Réaum. In the afternoon the rain only +threatened, and we had but two or three puffs of +wind.</p> + +<p>We hear that the Sultan is better; and from his +servants we collect that he is not willing we should +go on to Zinder unless escorted by himself. Certainly +this arrangement would please us under ordinary +circumstances; but we hear that it would detain +us two or three months in Aheer, which will +never do. To-day I made acquaintance with the +round salt-cakes of Bilma. They consist of a very +rough species of salt, like so many big round grains +of the coarsest sandstone. One that I saw was of a +dark brown colour, extremely dirty, about half-a-foot +in diameter. Apparently these lumps are very +compact; they serve as money both in Soudan and +Tintalous. The greater part of the revenue of +Aheer is derived from this salt carrying between +Bilma and Zinder.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—This morning I felt much better, as well +as I have ever done since leaving Tripoli. One +adapts one's self to any climate by degrees. I took<a name="page283" id="page283"></a><span class="pageno">[283]</span> +courage even to read a little, and went over Jackson's +"What to Observe," among other things. But +my mind is still troubled about our future course of +proceeding. It is impossible to bring Sultan En-Noor +to any arrangement. He still shelters himself +from our importunities under the plea of ill health. +Almost every morning we have a few visitors from +the town. The people are not troublesome, except +that they show a good deal of prying curiosity to see +the faces, forms, and actions of Christians. We +learn that scouts are still out after our camels, +hitherto without success. I am afraid they have +been driven far away; and begin to doubt our ever +setting eyes on them again.</p> + +<p>The morning was clear and dry, with a little +cool wind breathing up the valley. The country +was covered with fresh herbage; trees were budding +and birds singing, as in spring. Yesterday evening +we had a visit from a wolf, who was looking out for +our two or three sheep for a supper, but the watch +was too well kept. There are many wild animals in +Aheer, but we have hitherto seen but few. Very +pretty doves fly about our tent; and Dr. Overweg +shot some small birds to send home.</p> + +<p>Aheer, in general, must be considered as a part +of the Southern Sahara, or Great Desert. Any +country not producing periodic crops of grain, +either by the annual rains or by irrigation, comes +under this denomination here. Aheer answers the +description perfectly, although there are some exceptions.<a name="page284" id="page284"></a><span class="pageno">[284]</span> +Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have annual +crops of grain produced by irrigation.</p> + +<p>I have obtained a list, such as it is, of the towns +and villages surrounding Tintalous. Seloufeeat and +Tintaghoda are not mentioned, as they lay in our +route to this place. My informant declined to give +any account of the numbers of the population, in all +cases.<a name="anchor15" id="anchor15"></a><a href="#footnote15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> + +<p>From Tintalous, as radii, are spread around the +towns and villages of—Asărá, two hours west; Asărărá, +a place near Asoudee; Ghăloulaf, four hours +south; Asoudee, six hours south-south-west; Tănousămăt, +two hours west (forty people); Aghŏŏōu, +two hours north (country of Escort En-Noor); +Tănāsămā, four hours east (one family); Aghădéz, +six days south-west; Baghzem, two days south; +Aghălăgh, a few hours further south (fifty people); +Bindăée, one hour and a-half east (no people); +Teelaou, four hours east; Tegheda, a walk for +shepherds, three hours west; Asoudărăka, five +hours south (forty or fifty); Terken, seven hours +west (not known); Timeēă, four hours west (fifty, +and many dates); Doumous, one day west; Agharghar, +two days west; Oudăras, two days south-south-west +(place for shepherds); Abasas, two days south +(a place for shepherds); Tabernee (a well), two days<a name="page285" id="page285"></a><span class="pageno">[285]</span> +south; Shouwărēkēdē, or Touwerkedad (on the +side of Tabernee), one day south; Maree, one day +south (place for shepherds); Arăsāmadăn, by the +side of Maree, south (well); Shintaghalee, in Wady +Tentaghemea, near the above, south; Azanwazghēr, +near the above, south; Zanairas,<a name="anchor16" id="anchor16"></a><a href="#footnote16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> two days north-east.</p> + +<p>It would have been very interesting to collect +authentic information as to the population of many +places in Aheer. I suspect the number of inhabitants +is very small indeed. I had already been +powerfully impressed with the paucity of the population +of the districts of Ghât, the desert region +occupied by the Azgher, and had been led to compute +that they cannot contain in all more than a +couple of thousand people.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote14" id="footnote14"></a><a href="#anchor14">[14]</a> The drâa is <i>an arm</i> of strips of cotton stuff, about two inches +long.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote15" id="footnote15"></a><a href="#anchor15">[15]</a> He may have refused from superstitious motives. Muslims are +peculiarly sensitive on this subject. In Egypt, Mohammed Ali encountered +considerable passive resistance in his endeavours to procure +a census.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote16" id="footnote16"></a><a href="#anchor16">[16]</a> Zanairas is the native place of Ferajee and Deedee, where +Lousou exercises authority. This list is still very imperfect. It is +difficult to find a man who will give correct and full information. As +will be seen, my informant gave me wadys and sheep-walks for towns, +in many cases. [At the end of the volume will be found more complete +information on the positions of places in Aheer, subsequently +obtained by Mr. Richardson.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span>]</p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page286" id="page286"></a><span class="pageno">[286]</span></p> + + +<h2><a name="chapter17" id="chapter17"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Zinder Caravan—Negress playing "Boree"—Curious Scene—Objects +of Barter—Fresh Annoyances—Remarks on our +Reception in Aheer—En-Noor—Asoudee—Better News—Fresh +Extortions—En-Noor disappoints us—Europeans taken for +Spies—Things in demand at Aheer—Exercise—Overweg's +Patients—Wild Animals in Aheer—Kailouees in dry Weather—Robbing +a Prince—Ghaseb and Ghafouley—Aheer Cheese—Mokhlah +Bou Yeldee—Our Wealth noised abroad—Alarm at +Night—A fresh Attack—Saïd's Gallantry—Disorderly Protectors—Thirteen +Robbers—Amankee—Loss of my Tea—Country of +Thieves.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>10th Sept. continued.</i>—Yusuf has been to the town, +but has come back without any authentic news +of the departure of the caravans for Zinder. He +says, however, that En-Noor is better; and that +it is reported that the first caravan will go in fifteen +or twenty days, and the second and largest, +with which En-Noor himself talks of setting out, +about twenty days afterwards.</p> + +<p>I was disturbed this evening from my repose on +the dry sand under the pale moonlight by the most +unearthly noises, coming from a group of our black +servants. On getting up to see what it was, I found<a name="page287" id="page287"></a><span class="pageno">[287]</span> +that one of our negresses, a wife of one of the servants, +was performing <i>Boree</i>, the "Devil," and +working herself up into the belief that his Satanic +majesty had possession of her. She threw herself +upon the ground in all directions, and imitated the +cries of various animals. Her actions were, however, +somewhat regulated by a man tapping upon +a kettle with a piece of wood, beating time to her +wild manoeuvres. After some delay, believing herself +now possessed, and capable of performing her +work, she went forward to half-a-dozen, of our servants, +who were squatting down, on their hams, +ready to receive her. She then took each by the +head and neck, and pressed their heads between her +legs—they sitting, she standing—not in the most +decent way, and made over them, with her whole +body, certain inelegant motions, not to be mentioned. +She then put their hands and arms behind their +backs, and after several other wild cries and jumps, +and having for a moment thrown herself flat upon +the ground, she declared to each and all <i>their future</i>—their +fortune, good or bad. I did not stop to see +the result of the ceremony. The slaves carry these +mysteries with them in their servitude, and the +practice of such indecent and profane things +tolerated by the Muslims of the coast. The Moors +and Arabs, indeed, have great faith in these mysteries, +and resort to them to know <i>their future</i>.</p> + +<p>I made this day a list of objects of barter:—A +looking-glass in a tin case, value, in Tripoli,<a name="page288" id="page288"></a><span class="pageno">[288]</span> +thirty paras, purchases here two sahs of ghaseb. +A common print handkerchief, value fourpence +English money, only purchases three or four sahs +of ghaseb.</p> + +<p>Eight drâa of fine white calico are equal to one +metagal; three of which metagals is a large dollar. +(This does not sell at much advantage.)</p> + +<p>I this day finished my dispatch, dated from +Esalan, respecting the disputes and disagreements +I had with the Tuaricks of Ghât; but since then +these Haghars have, indeed, appeared very moderate +people to us.</p> + +<p>Thermometer at half-past twelve P.M., under +tent, 92° Fahr.</p> + +<p>Instead of much rain, we have had a squall of +wind this afternoon, attended by a slight shower.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, Yusuf came, with a menacing +tone, from En-Noor, saying, we must pay ten metagals +(of this country) for finding each of the lost +camels; or if not, this sum would be taken from us +by force. Yusuf added, also, that En-Noor was +dissatisfied with his present; that the Sultan had +remarked to him,—"It was a present for servants, +and he had given it all away to the people." Moreover, +that yesterday came several persons, marabouts, +from Tintaghoda, who mentioned their displeasure +to En-Noor because they had not yet +received anything.</p> + +<p>I was just rejoicing at the finding of three lost +camels; but it seems we are not to have a moment<a name="page289" id="page289"></a><span class="pageno">[289]</span> +of repose or enjoyment in Aheer. It may be, hereafter, +"sweet to remember these things," but it is +now a sad trial of patience to bear them. I abused +En-Noor and our servants in turn. As to the forty +metagals, there was not a question ventured about +that; but the present of En-Noor was the largest +we had ever made, and it would have been better to +have brought with us letters of recommendation for +robbers than such people. All this comes after it +had been noised abroad through the whole village +that En-Noor was greatly rejoiced at the present, +and all the people were happy and content. Such, +however, is the dependence to be placed on reports +in the African kingdom of Aheer! However, I am +determined to give way to no more vain fears, but +to preserve as much as possible of the property of +Government. I am sorry to say that I receive no +assistance in my efforts to save the money with +which I have been entrusted.</p> + +<p>I am now writing to Mr. Gagliuffi on the subject +of the great losses and shameless extortion to +which we were subjected on our arrival in this +country. In reviewing the whole affair, setting +apart the personal devotion exhibited towards myself, +I have no cause to be pleased with our escort +and servants. They gave way too easily to fear, and, +seem to have been too willing to allow us to buy +ourselves off. I have omitted to mention that they +wished us to write a document, to the effect that if +we came to harm it was not through their fault!<a name="page290" id="page290"></a><span class="pageno">[290]</span> +This singular idea was, of course, rejected. I must +observe, that not only we, but all our caravan, were +prodigiously disappointed by the reception we met +with. The Haghars were expected to be troublesome, +and their alleged pursuit of us was sufficiently +probable; but no one admitted that there was any +danger from the people of Aheer. On the contrary, +all professed delight at the prospect of entering the +inhabited districts, where it was thought and boldly +proclaimed we should all have the most cordial +welcome. Yet the Haghars did not come, and +the borderers of Aheer treated us as badly as the +wildest Tuaricks could have done, behaving like +veritable brigands. I entertain some faint hopes +of obtaining redress; but have been so often deceived, +that I shall say nothing for the present on +the subject.</p> + +<p><i>Friday, 13th Sept.</i>—I rose early; a fine morning. +Thermometer at a quarter to seven P.M. under +tent, 78°. We had a visit early from the son-in-law +of En-Noor and his two friends, who had found the +camels. They were extremely polite, and much +pleased when I sent them to the Sfaxee to receive +forty metagals for the recovery of the four lost +camels (one is not yet come up). Then I had a visit +from one of the slaves of En-Noor's brother. This +man gave a good account of En-Noor, and said he +would certainly go with us. He observed, also, +respecting the Sultan's authority, "En-Noor governs +everywhere—all Aheer, and even Damerghou<a name="page291" id="page291"></a><span class="pageno">[291]</span> +and Zinder." This must be taken to signify, En-Noor +has great influence in all these countries.</p> + +<p>Asoudee is said by some to be a city, walled, +and of considerable extent, with many people; others +represent it as being in ruins. I think its ruins are +mentioned in my Ghadamez itinerary. Unlike +Tintalous, a great quantity of provisions is stored +up in that place.</p> + +<p>Yusuf and the Sfaxee came this morning from +En-Noor, and brought more tranquillising news; +but we have been obliged to give ten douros each +for finding the lost camels—almost as much as my +white maharee is worth. However, I remained in +tolerably good spirits all day, cheered by the favourable +account given me of the Sultan. But woe to +the man who hugs himself in a feeling of security +in Aheer!</p> + +<p>Late in the evening Yusuf and the Sfaxee came +from En-Noor with a most threatening message. +The Sheikh says, in substance, that "Everybody +wishes to attack us, and take away our property. +To protect us, therefore, and conduct us to Zinder, +he must have, at least, seven hundred dollars." At +first he demanded one thousand, and then came +down to seven hundred. Such is the man to whom +we are recommended as a friend and protector. +None of the robbers have yet taken so large a sum, +so that this is the greatest, grandest of the brigands! +I went to bed disquieted by the enormity of En-Noor's +demands.<a name="page292" id="page292"></a><span class="pageno">[292]</span></p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—As may be imagined, I passed an unquiet +night, disturbed by the most gloomy forebodings. +It now appeared to me that all the amenity of the +Sultan had been assumed, in order that he might +first get all he could out of us by gentle means, previous +to resorting to threats and bullying. As to +resistance, it is, of course, impossible, if imperative +demands be made. In the morning En-Noor sent +a message, to the effect that he could not see us unless +we had made up our minds to give him the +seven hundred dollars. He is getting more and +more bold and impertinent. I deputed Mahommed +Tunisee and the Sfaxee to him as negotiators. +They are to offer a present of five hundred dollars; +that is to say, three hundred for the escort to Zinder, +and the remaining two hundred after the signing +of the treaty. With some difficulty the matter +was for the present arranged, by the sacrifice of +another hundred dollars as a present to the courtiers +of the great man, in order that they might induce +him to be so kind as to accept of the remaining +five hundred! My agents were greatly assisted by +the Wakeel of Makersee of Mourzuk. I consented +to the arrangement on En-Noor's writing a letter to +her Majesty's Government, promising protection to +British travellers for the future; and thus ended this +new, and I may say, flagrant series of exactions. Possibly, +had I been alone, I might have been able to +hold out longer and more successfully; but it is +somewhat embarrassing to act with persons who<a name="page293" id="page293"></a><span class="pageno">[293]</span> +share in your councils without sharing in your +responsibility, and who naturally seek the shortest +and easiest method of getting over all difficulties. +The conclusion of the arrangement had a tranquillising +effect upon our encampment, especially on +my worthy German colleagues.</p> + +<p>The people have complained to En-Noor that we +are "writing the country." This is an old complaint, +and pervades all Northern Africa and the Desert, +"that the Christians come first to write a country, +and afterwards invade or capture it." Travellers, +therefore, especially when they venture to use the +pen in public, are looked upon as spies, which may +in part account for the rough treatment they sometimes +receive.</p> + +<p>Every place has certain things especially in +demand. Here nothing goes down but white calico +and very small looking-glasses, which shut up in +boxes. With these we purchase the greater part +of our provisions. There is a little cotton-money +about. Our encampment sometimes resembles a +market. The people are curious to observe every +action which differs from theirs. When I promenade +a little for exercise, they immediately turn +their eyes upon me with astonishment, and some +come to ask what I do that for. I reply by signs,<a name="anchor17" id="anchor17"></a><a href="#footnote17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> +feeling my legs and stretching them. This proves<a name="page294" id="page294"></a><span class="pageno">[294]</span> +satisfactory, for the Kailouees are apparently an +active people, at least in this season; but they +moved about little while the rain lasted, and in +the middle of the day they rarely visit us—always +in the morning and in the afternoon. Dr. Overweg +has got some patients; but people generally seem +to enjoy very good health in this place. We have +now a great deal of wind instead of rain: it always +blows hard in the latter part of the day. I find +this weather very bracing, though the thermometer +at nine P.M. sometimes stands at 83°. The rainy +season may be considered nearly at an end.</p> + +<p>The valleys and rocks of Aheer abound with +several kinds of wild animals, both the inoffensive +and the ferocious; viz. the gazelle, the wadan, the +wild ox, the ostrich, the wild boar, the jackal, the wolf, +the hyæna, and the lion. Numerous birds haunt +the trees. Amongst others we noticed a very beautiful +species of dove, with a very distinct black ring +round its neck; the hippoo; the wood-pecker; +linnets; and over us flew the little black-and-white +bird with the long feathers in its tail.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—We had a fine morning; the wind has +quite dried our encampment. There will be little +more wet weather, they tell us; and the rain has some +time quite ceased in Soudan. This is fortunate, as +already several of our things have been spoiled. +The Kailouees are taking advantage of the dry +weather, and may be seen riding about in all +directions. The members of the great families, like<a name="page295" id="page295"></a><span class="pageno">[295]</span> +our European aristocrats, seem to have no other +occupation. God has created the earth for this +class to gallop about over. It was very warm and +fine all day; thermometer at noon, in tent, 95° Fahr.: +there was little wind.</p> + +<p>The secret of En-Noor's authority is this: in +all his great gains, and lucky enterprises, and pieces +of good fortune—as our arrival here has proved—he +gives his principal people and courtiers a share +of the profit or the spoil; and when nothing particular +is going on, he feeds them from the granary +of his house, or clothes them from his heaped-up +merchandise. All this, however does not save the +prince from being occasionally robbed—if we are to +believe report, which says that the other evening +some black cotton turbans were taken from his house. +The news from the town is, that En-Noor and his +courtiers have received the amount of their extortion +in goods. We have now given at Tintalous to the +value of nearly a thousand dollars, and yet we have +not received the smallest present in return—not a +supper the day of our arrival, not a little butter or +fruit; nothing, absolutely nothing!</p> + +<p>Our servants have nearly procured all the ghaseb +which they require for the journey from this to +Zinder, viz. one hundred sahs. This they have purchased +with various little wares, principally knives +and looking-glasses. The ghaseb is always mixed +with ghafouley, a species of grain about a third the +size of a small pea. Ghafouley is called <i>koula</i> in<a name="page296" id="page296"></a><span class="pageno">[296]</span> +Soudanese. The Aheer cheese has appeared for the +first time amongst us to-day. It is made in little +squares, three by two inches broad, and a quarter +of an inch thick. It is eaten fresh, but has a poor +flavour. The people prefer pounding it into dust +when dry, and drinking it with ghaseb-water, +which is white as milk, and very cool. The paste +thus made is very white, and becomes as hard as a +stone when dry. I have also made acquaintance +with <i>doua doua</i>, round black balls of a vegetable +composition, eaten with various dishes as seasoning. +It is very abundant in Soudan. There is also a +species of ghaseb-paste, called <i>dābóă</i>, not unlike +macaroni in very small pieces. This is very much +esteemed. It swells exceedingly when boiled, like +paste. We begin to get into regions where the +preparation of food is greatly changing. Yesterday +my servants purchased me a fowl, and I learned for +the first time that this delicacy was to be procured.</p> + +<p>I have studied but little since I left Tripoli. +Our affairs have always been worse and worse, and +we have had a continual battle to preserve our +existence. Such is the beginning of this expedition: +God only knows what may be its <i>end</i>. There +is left for us but a firm reliance in His goodness and +protecting providence.</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—This was a warm, hazy day, and we were +troubled with considerable languor. I have slept +but little these three nights, and feel somewhat +indisposed for want of rest. I read a good deal of<a name="page297" id="page297"></a><span class="pageno">[297]</span> +Clapperton's "Journey to Sakkatou," besides beginning +a vocabulary of the Kailouee language, with +the assistance of Mokhlak Bou Yeldee, who is a +very clever young man. He gets his living by +writing charms, and sells a good number for the +cure of disease. People pour water on the ink or +writing of the charm, and then drink the magic +liquid. The remedy is doubtless as effectual as +many patent medicines in Europe. As is well +known, this superstition of drinking the Koran is of +old date.</p> + +<p>En-Noor sent a message this morning by the +slave of Makersee, that we were not to say a single +word to any one, not even to our servants, about the +money, or its amount, which we have paid him for +our escort to Zinder. He says, "If the people hear +of this money, they will all come down upon me for +a portion; and if I do not comply with their wishes +they will abandon us, and not go with us to Zinder, +and I want as many of them to go with me as +possible."</p> + +<p>Our wealth is still noised abroad! The people +believe all our boxes to be full of gold and silver. +Even En-Noor sought for secret information respecting +the amount of dollars which he supposed to be +concealed amongst our baggage.</p> + +<p>I was again restless when night came on, and +was still awake when the moon was near setting, +about three A.M., under tent, at which time suddenly +I heard the wife of Saïd begin to squall, with the<a name="page298" id="page298"></a><span class="pageno">[298]</span> +sound of the trampling of feet around my tent. I +conjectured immediately what was up, "Another +attack!" I repeated mechanically to myself, and +getting up, began to dress myself. At first I +thought our assailants were at some distance off, +but when the boxes began to be drawn from around +my tent I exclaimed, "Oh, oh, they are upon me, +and are carrying off the things." Still I had become +so accustomed to these attacks, or attempted attacks, +by night and by day, that I felt quite indifferent, +and began to dress myself as if nothing was the +matter, or simply as if some one had called me up +suddenly to breakfast, or that we were to start off +early on our way.</p> + +<p>I found my clothes, however, with some difficulty, +and tore them a little in putting them on. At +last I went out. All our people were up, as well as +the Germans. On inquiring the news, I learned +that a band of robbers had attacked us; from six +to ten had been counted. My servants had all +decamped, with the exception of Saïd. Some of +them had been struck by the robbers, and others +had been threatened, and had ran away. My servant +Saïd, as soon as he sallied out and saw what +was going on, seized his matchlock, and pointed it +at the assailants, especially those who were removing +the saharees (large square boxes). Upon this they +began to quake, and, parleying with Saïd, begged +for mercy, and said they would go immediately if +the powder was not used against them. Saïd took<a name="page299" id="page299"></a><span class="pageno">[299]</span> +them at their word, and they ran off. They had +already, however, carried away about nine pounds +of tea, packed in tin boxes. It is probable they +mistook these boxes of tin for silver, or considered +their contents to be money, gold and silver, although +their lightness should have undeceived them. As +the Arabic Bibles and Testaments were packed up +with the tea, they carried off a Bible with them. +But this they afterwards dropped on the road, and +it was picked up by a shepherdess, and brought to +me. They also took away a pewter dish and two +bags of grounded ghaseb, besides ripping open the +bags of the blacks. This appears to be the amount +of the robbery and devastation; very fortunate are +we it was not worse. We had watched many nights, +and had often loaded our guns; but this night, when +the thieves came, we were miserably unprepared to +receive them. The Germans had been cleaning +their guns, and all were unloaded. Overweg had +his fowling-piece charged with small shot. At length +we got two or three guns in trim, and our servants +followed the robbers, but nothing of them was to be +seen. The cowards had fled at the first show of +resistance. In the morning, on searching through +the small valley up which they had come, we were +surprised to find marks of no less than thirteen +camels—enough to carry away all our goods. So +that it is probable there were some thirteen robbers, +a part of whom remained with the camels whilst the +others attacked us. Amankee, on being knocked<a name="page300" id="page300"></a><span class="pageno">[300]</span> +down with a shield, got up again, and ran off to the +town, giving the alarm everywhere.</p> + +<p>En-Noor, as soon as the news of this aggression +reached him, sent off a <i>posse</i> of people, and then +called in the inhabitants of a neighbouring village; +so that, when all was over, our encampment was +surrounded by a disorderly multitude of protectors +till daylight.</p> + +<p>To my tent came the confidential servant of +En-Noor, and everybody was talking, drinking +coffee, and making merry. After all, it was well to +have these people, for if the thirteen robbers had +shown ordinary courage, in our unprepared state we +should have had a good deal of work to do, and +might some of us have got bad sword-cuts or spear-thrusts.</p> + +<p>En-Noor, they say, is exceedingly angry about +this attack, and has sent eleven mounted men after +the robbers to seize their camels, which if he gets +hold of he intends to confiscate. On Amankee +calling on him he observed, "You, Amankee, being +a native of Soudan, and not a Muslim of Tripoli, are +like the Kailouees. You can fire on these Kailouee +robbers. Get your gun loaded, ready for any other +occasion."</p> + +<p>At daylight, after lecturing my servants for not +giving the alarm (for, with the exception of Saïd's +wife, they were all so terror-stricken—literally +struck dumb with terror—that they could not +speak, much-less cry out), I sent Amankee off at<a name="page301" id="page301"></a><span class="pageno">[301]</span> +the heels of the robbers. In all such emergencies +I have found no one like Amankee; he is a complete +bloodhound, and can scent his way through all the +desert, and follow the steps of the most agile and +quick-witted fugitive. I knew Amankee would +pick up some of the tea and bring news of the +robbers. He returned, and fulfilled my expectations: +he picked up about six ounces of tea scattered on +the road, and brought the news that the robbers +were from Tidek and Taghajeet. They had come +some days' journey to plunder us. I learned, also, +that the rascals, just before they attacked us, had +been feasting at a wedding in Tintalous.</p> + +<p>I grieved very much for the loss of my tea, and +employed six or seven hours in picking the stones +out of what Amankee recovered. I had greatly +coveted this luxury, and set my heart upon it; and +now my idol was ruthlessly torn from me by a band +of robbers! Amankee, knowing my feelings, had +offered a reward for the rest, telling the people he +saw on the road that the tea could only be drank by +Christians, and was poison for Muslims! This fib +drew from the astonished Kailouees a woful ejaculation—"Allah! +Allah!" Many funny scenes were +enacted during the few minutes of the attack of the +robbers. The other negress, a wife of another of +the servants, was quite dumb; but Saïd's wife crept +around the tent like a dog, on her hands and feet, +giving the alarm, but fearing to rise up lest she +should be felled down by the robbers. The servants<a name="page302" id="page302"></a><span class="pageno">[302]</span> +of the Germans hearing the squalling thought it was +Saïd "beating his wife"—a thing common in these +countries. Dr. Barth heard all sorts of noises, but +imagined they were all from the celebration of the +wedding. It is always well to examine suspicious +circumstances. A strange camel had been seen +straying at sunset near our tent, which excited the +suspicions of myself and Dr. Barth. If we had +obeyed our presentiments, we might have discovered +the intended attack, or, at least, have made some +preparations.</p> + +<p>A few robbers have often visited us before this. +When I had an interview with En-Noor I asked +for a couple of guards, but he refused them, on the +plea that they were unnecessary. Although he knew +well the country is now full of thieves, and told us +so, he never expected this audacious attack of +thirteen maharees! Soudan abounds with thieves, +and we must now always keep watch. May we, +however, in our further progress, have nothing +more to fear than petty larceny; and we shall have +reason indeed to be thankful!</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote17" id="footnote17"></a><a href="#anchor17">[17]</a> It is astonishing how few of the Kailouees speak Arabic. The +few terms and expressions they are acquainted with are only those of +commerce.</p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page303" id="page303"></a><span class="pageno">[303]</span></p> + + +<h2><a name="chapter18" id="chapter18"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>We shift our Encampment—En-Noor's Circular—The Kadi's Decision—No +Progress in the Sahara—Aghadez Gumruk—Scorpions—Election +of Sultans in Aheer—Present of Salutation—Paying for +finding lost Property—Courier from the new Sultan—No Presents +sent us—Notes on Denham—A Bornouese Measure—Intended +Razzia—Firing off Gunpowder—Hypotheses of Danger—Dress +and Women—Enroute to Bilma—Soudan Caravan—Visit from +Tintaghoda—Aheer Honey—Modes of Measurement—Power of +En-Noor—Visits to him from great People—Stations on the Bilma +Road—Salt-Trade—Account of our Pursuers at Tajetterat—Costume +of the Kailouees—Their Weapons—Poisoned Arrows—Charms—Female +Dress—Names of Articles of Costume—Character of +Kailouees.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Sept. 17th.</i>—In the morning En-Noor sent a message +that we must immediately move from our present +encampment on our sand-hills, a quarter of a mile +from the town, where we had a pleasant view of +everything in the valley and around, and come near +the people. So in the course of the day we pitched +tents close by the houses of the town. We found +that we were not so much molested by the inhabitants +(i.e. by their curiosity) as we expected.</p> + +<p>I had heard in the previous evening that En-Noor, +two or three days ago, had written, by means<a name="page304" id="page304"></a><span class="pageno">[304]</span> +of one of the learned men of this place, to all the +towns and villages around him, begging the Sheikhs +and people not to offer us any molestation whilst we +were residing here, under his immediate protection, +as his guests, and as sacred persons recommended to +his care. This shows good-will in the venerable +Sultan. He sent to us this morning the result of +the Kadi's decision, respecting the robbers. This +singular question was put to the Kadi, "Whether +it was lawful to rob and murder the Christians by +night?" Answer, "No; on the contrary, the +Christians may fire on and kill the Muslim +robbers." The Sultan, it appears, attaches great +importance to this decision, and counts on it to +obtain the suffrages of all his people in our favour.</p> + +<p>Such are the circumstances attending the first +visit of Christians to Aheer! I believe this attack +will do our servants good. They see now, that, by a +little resistance, the most audacious of thieves will +be put to flight. We ourselves shall also keep better +watch for the future.</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—I finished to-day a vocabulary of the +Kailouee language. I endeavour also to divert my +mind from the many causes of annoyance that now +exist, by studying the records of the Denham and +Clapperton expedition. We shall soon be amidst +the same countries that they explored, and, no +doubt, shall find that little has changed in the manners +of the people during these last thirty years. +Neither in the Desert nor in the kingdoms of Central<a name="page305" id="page305"></a><span class="pageno">[305]</span> +Africa is there any march of civilisation. All goes +on according to a certain routine established for +ages past.</p> + +<p>A courier has just arrived from the new Sultan +of Aghadez, demanding the gumruk, or custom-dues, +from the caravan of Christians who have entered +Aheer. As if we had not already paid enough! After +two or three weeks of incessant solicitation, by the +way, I gave Es-Sfaxee, Yusuf, and Mahommed, +a small bottle of rum—the first, and it shall be the +last; for they got drunk and quarrelsome upon it.</p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—This day I took a walk over the neighbouring +rocks, whence there is a wide view over the +whole surrounding valley. I have omitted to observe, +that at our former place of encampment were +seen many scorpions; so that here these reptiles +inhabit the open country equally with the ruins of +old houses or mosques, and such places. Under one +of my boxes was also discovered a lêfa, the most +dangerous species of serpent in these countries.</p> + +<p>It appears that most of the caravans that pass +through this country are obliged to pay a certain +gumruk to the prince of Aghadez. The relations of +the lesser Sheikhs of Aheer with the paramount +sultan are of this kind. When a sultan dies, or is +displaced, they assemble like the College of Cardinals, +or rather like the old Polish nobility, to elect +a new one. It is the law that this Sultan of Aghadez +must be a stranger. When once chosen he is +invested with something like absolute authority<a name="page306" id="page306"></a><span class="pageno">[306]</span> +throughout all Aheer, and he alone possesses the +dreaded power of "cutting off heads." En Noor +has sent this morning what is called "the present, +of salutation," which he determined to despatch to +Abd-el-Kader, the new Sultan of Aghadez, instead +of the immense gumruk demanded. The present +consists of one Egyptian mattrass; two white +turbans with red borders; a piece of white muslin +for making light turbans; two shasheeahs, or red +caps; two small gilt-framed looking-glasses; and a +few beads of glass and earthen composition; one +pound of <i>jouee</i>, or perfume for burning; a small +packet of <i>simbel</i>, an aromatic herb used for washing +the body; and two heads of white sugar. This composed +what may be called the official present for the +district of Tintalous. En-Noor added, from himself, +two camels, a piece of silk for a gown, and various +other little things.</p> + +<p>Whilst these magnificences are going on, we are +enjoying the comfortable reflection that all our +losses are gains to other people, whether they be +friends or enemies.</p> + +<p>I had as much trouble to satisfy the parties who +found the Arabic Bible as if I was purchasing their +own property, and not rewarding them for accidentally +finding some of my lost goods. Finally, +however, I arranged to give them two cotton-printed +handkerchiefs and a small quantity of spices. This +was more than enough. These rewards for finding +our lost property naturally impels our friendly<a name="page307" id="page307"></a><span class="pageno">[307]</span> +people, either to rob us themselves or to wish that +others may rob us, that they may have something to +gain by attempting to recover our lost things. +What we had to pay for the recovery of each of our +camels was almost as much as some of them were +worth.</p> + +<p>The weather has been dry and hot for the last +few days; at noon the thermometer rose to 100° +under the tent. Suddenly it became cloudy, and a +few drops of rain began to patter down. There was +every appearance of a storm, and our people began +to collect towards the tents. At this time another +courier arrived from the new Sultan, Abd-el-Kader, +of Aghadez, respecting us. His highness says:—"No +one shall hurt the Christians: no one shall lift +up a finger against them; and if they wish to come +to my city, I shall be very happy to receive them." +This courier arrived so quickly after the other, that +I suspect his highness may be spelling for a large +present; or he may have just heard of the bad +treatment we have received, and being a new man +has determined to afford us some reparation. Little +reliance, however, can be placed on these professions, +until we know something more of the character of +Abd-el-Kader. It is certainly a great disappointment +for us that we do not go to Aghadez. I am +afraid that this will be the case with many other +important cities.</p> + +<p>The Es-Sfaxee wished to have a feast to celebrate +the arrival of this good news, but I cannot<a name="page308" id="page308"></a><span class="pageno">[308]</span> +join in such a demonstration. We have little cause +for rejoicing at the conduct of the people of Aheer. +En-Noor has not yet sent us a sah of ghaseb; +or a drop of samen or a sheep's head. Never did +travellers visit a country in Africa, without receiving +some mark of hospitality of this kind from the chief +or sovereign of the place.</p> + +<p>In the evening a fellow came and asked us if +we could sell him a veneese (a dressing-gown) in +exchange for ghaseb. After some trouble we fixed +the bargain. Saïd was fool enough to give him +the veneese before he brought the merchandise, the +fellow promising to bring it the next morning. +During the night he fled with his booty on the +road to Aghadez. Amankee went in pursuit of the +fugitive, seized him on the road, and brought back +the veneese: for such matters there is no one equal +to Amankee.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—Denham compares the berries of the <i>suak</i> +(suag) to cranberries. <i>Zumeeta</i> is called parched +corn; it should be parched ground corn. Gafouley +is called guinea-corn. The green herb with which +<i>bazeen</i> is generally seasoned is called <i>melocheea</i> +(ochra). There are, however, various herbs for +this seasoning, though all of them have a similar +flavour. I confess, myself, I do not much like the flavour; +it is, like that of olives, an acquired taste. +Bazeen may be called flour-pudding.</p> + +<p>Gubga is a Bornouese measure, eight drâas (or +lengths of the lower part of the arm, from the elbow<a name="page309" id="page309"></a><span class="pageno">[309]</span> +to the tips of the fingers) in length and one inch and +a half broad. Denham, who spells it gubka, says it is +about one English yard. The eight drâas would be, +however, nearly three yards. This measure is applied +to white, coarse, native-woven cotton, and a +piece of cotton eight drâas long and one inch and half +broad is a gubga. This is the money of Bornou; +it must be a most inconvenient currency, but habit +accustoms us to everything.</p> + +<p>It is reported in town, that En-Noor intends +shortly to make a razzia on the towns where we +were plundered: he says, perhaps justly, "The +tribes have '<i>tasted</i>' fine burnouses, more especially +their sheikhs; and emboldened by their success, and +the attractiveness of the rich vestments, they will +now plunder all the caravans." This is another +reason why strong representations should be made +to the Pasha of Mourzuk to grant us redress. En-Noor +can seize camels and sequester them; he can +also seize men: but he must afterwards send them +to Aghadez for trial. This razzia, however, will not +come off yet.</p> + +<p>A storm of wind, with at little rain as usual, +visited us in the afternoon. It then cleared up, and +was fine all the evening.</p> + +<p>The Es-Sfaxee, heading our servants, was determined +to fire away a little gunpowder this evening +though much against my inclination. After they +had been firing near the tents, En-Noor sent for +them to fire at the doors of his house. The old<a name="page310" id="page310"></a><span class="pageno">[310]</span> +Sheikh is now waxing mighty civil, and swears that +we are his <i>walad</i> (children). We shall see what +we shall see. Yusuf even thinks he can be persuaded +to sign the treaty. All the Kailouees are +very fond of powder, and also very much alarmed at +it. They say they could themselves make plenty of +powder if saltpetre were found them.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—It appears that some of the districts of +Damerghou are included within the circle of Aheer, +and that the Kailouees exercise authority there. +En-Noor has a house there.</p> + +<p>Overweg's three hypotheses of danger south of +Bornou are:—</p> + +<p>1. To be stripped of everything by robbers, and +left naked in the wilderness.</p> + +<p>2. To be devoured by wild beasts.</p> + +<p>3. To be forced to traverse a desert where there +is no subsistence for man or beast. Indeed, after the +experience we have had up this road, although a +Tuarick road (and Tuaricks are not supposed to have +a peculiar antipathy to Christians), it will be next +to suicide to proceed far south without adequate +guides and protection.</p> + +<p>The two predominant passions of men in all +these Tuarick countries, especially Aheer, are for +dress and women. A few only are tainted by fanaticism, +and fewer still are misers; because, probably +they have nothing to save. Of the character of the +women I cannot speak, for want of experience; the +few we have met with have begged mostly for trinkets,<a name="page311" id="page311"></a><span class="pageno">[311]</span> +and looking-glasses, but we have seen little of the +love of intrigue.</p> + +<p>About Aheer, the Bornou and Soudan routes +appear not to be far apart. The Tibboos make +Kisbee to be only eight days from Aghadez. The +Kailouees also state that Bilma (or <i>Boulouma</i>, in +their pronunciation) is only seven or eight days of +good travelling from Tintalous; but the salt-caravans +always employ fourteen days, arriving at Bilma on +the fifteenth.</p> + +<p>Yesterday afternoon a portion of a large Soudan +caravan arrived. A number of bullocks were +amongst its beasts of burden; one of these had immense +branching horns, and, according to the report +of Saïd's wife, was of the same species as those found +in her country, Kanemboo, near Bornou. These bullocks +seemed to be in every respect trained like horses, +and some of them carry a burden of four cantars.</p> + +<p><i>22d.</i>—I rose early, to prepare my despatches for +Mourzuk and England. To-day not much wind, only +a little refreshing breeze. The wind, which appears +to visit us daily instead of the rain, generally begins +about an hour after noon, and continues to blow in +fitful gusts until three or four P.M. when it gradually +sinks. The evenings are perfectly calm, though +not always cloudless.</p> + +<p>Yesterday five maharees arrived from Tintaghoda, +mounted by persons who came to inquire after the +health of En-Noor. They left early this morning. +Somehow or other these maharees always look suspicious<a name="page312" id="page312"></a><span class="pageno">[312]</span> +to me. The injuries we have received make +us suspicious.</p> + +<p>I ate some honey of Aheer to-day. It has a +most treacley taste, and, in truth, is not unlike treacle, +not having the delicate flavour of honey. It has +purgative qualities. They boil it on the fire, and so +spoil it.</p> + +<p>I wrote to-day to Viscount Palmerston, to Mr. +Gagliuffi, and my wife, sending also specimens of +the Kailouee language, and the journal of Yusuf, +describing the route from Ghât to Aheer—altogether +a good parcel.</p> + +<p>The Arabs and Moors try to measure everything +by portions of their body. The drâa, a measure from +the elbow to the tips of the fingers, is in universal +requisition. The fathom, signified by the arms extended +on both sides the body, is not so frequently +in use. The sun is often said to be so many fathoms +high. If we attended a little more to these natural +measures it might be well, although the human +body being so various in size we could never be +correct, and then we might lose sight of those artificial +means of measuring objects which distinguish +us from the semi-barbarian Arabs.</p> + +<p>This evening I heard from Es-Sfaxee a more +favourable account of the power of En-Noor. It +would appear that En-Noor is the aged Sheikh, the +Sheikh Kebeer, of the Kailouees, whom all respect, +and to whom all look up in cases of difficulty and +distress. With En-Noor always authority remains,<a name="page313" id="page313"></a><span class="pageno">[313]</span> +whilst all the other Sheikhs are being changed—some +every year. En-Noor, nevertheless, appears +to be a great miser, continually amassing wealth in +money, merchandise, or camels. He is also reported +to have four hundred horses in Damerghou, a district +of which is subjected to him.</p> + +<p>At the present time he is constantly receiving +visits from the surrounding Kubar, "great people," +inquiring after his health, and bringing presents. +Whilst he thus amasses treasure, he feeds a number +of dependants a little above the starvation point; +and this standing army suffices for his executive. +Several of the princes of Aheer are expected to visit +the new Sultan of Aghadez, and compliment him +on his accession. The exact name of the new Sultan +is now said to be Kadaree Ben El-Bagharee.</p> + +<p><i>23d.</i>—I rose early, to send off the despatches. +They are sent to Asoudee, where there is a caravan +just arrived from Kanou. Among the +persons composing it are some Mourzuk people, +who will take charge of the despatches. This caravan +stays a few days in Asoudee, when it will leave +direct for Mourzuk, and arrive at this latter city in +the course of two months and a-half.</p> + +<p>I have just received an account of the route of the +salt-caravans from Tintalous to Bilma:—</p> + +<table summary=""> +<tr><td>From Tintalous to</td><td>Asaughar</td><td></td><td>Five days.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td>Fakramah</td><td></td><td>One day.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td>Kāwār</td><td></td><td>One day.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td>Boulouma</td><td></td><td>One day.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p><a name="page314" id="page314"></a><span class="pageno">[314]</span>The mediate time occupied is said to be between +eight and fourteen days. The three stations mentioned +between Tintalous and Bilma have wells of +water. There is also an abundance of herbage all +along the route for camels. The direction of the +route is always east, over a flat country (probably +through wadys); although, my informant adds, there +are no mountains. The salt is found in small lakes. +The people amass it with the water, and make of it +round cakes; the water runs away, and the cakes +become hard and dry. It is then packed up in +camel-loads. A large camel-load pays to the Tibboos +half a metagal, or about ninepence English +money. It is thus evident that the Tibboos do +derive a revenue from their salt, contrary to what +was stated by them to Major Denham. Since his +time, however, this people have found themselves in +a better condition to enforce this impost on the +Kailouee salt-merchants than they were formerly.</p> + +<p>The caravan of Ghât Tuaricks brought here the +news, a few days ago, that no less than four hundred +people, fractions of the tribes of the Azgher, +consisting of men, women, and children, followed +us as far as Tajetterat to see what they could get +from the Christians. When they arrived at the +wells, to their great disappointment we were gone. +Some of them were nearly naked, having only a +piece of leather round their loins. Our sending for +an escort from Mourzuk seems to have aroused the +whole country; all these poor wretches expected, at<a name="page315" id="page315"></a><span class="pageno">[315]</span> +least, a little <i>hamsa</i> from the Christians, who were +reported to have a long train of camels laden with +gold and silver, and all sorts of rich goods. I do +not doubt the correctness of this news; it is so +perfectly Targhee in its kind: but the report of sixty +maharees pursuing us from the Haghar desert was +always doubted by me.</p> + +<p>There is now news of my stolen tea, and a chance +of my getting some of it back again, the robbers +confessing to their friends that they do not know +what to do with such "<i>herbage</i>," as they call it: it +is quite useless to them.</p> + +<p>The Kailouees and Tuaricks generally do not +like beards, and cut off the hair of the upper lip +quite close. Indeed, wearing as they do the thilem, +the beard and the mustachios are completely +hidden. The Kailouees leave the crown of the +head, which is close shaved, as in the case of the +Mahommedans of the coast, quite bare, exposed to +the sun and weather. Around the lower part of +the head they wind a long narrow strip of black +cotton stuff (called <i>rouanee</i> in Soudanee), which is +continued round the face, upper and lower part, and +forms the thilem, only about an inch breadth of the +face being exposed or visible; that is, the portion +including the eyes and bridge of the nose. The +generality of the Kailouees wear, besides, a tobe, or +long broad cotton frock (or rather shirt, for nothing +is worn under it at the upper part of the body), +with immensely wide sleeves. Those a little better<a name="page316" id="page316"></a><span class="pageno">[316]</span> +off also wear trousers, very wide about the loins, +narrow at the legs, and drawn round the waist with +a belt. All use leather sandals, strong and thick; +some of them are prettily made. The whole of this +apparel is imported from Soudan, there being apparently +no manufactures in Aheer.</p> + +<p>The arms of the men,—for all go armed with +some weapon,—are a dagger under the left arm, a +sword slung on the back, and a spear in the right +hand. The spear-shaft is wood, whilst those of the +Ghât Tuaricks and Haghars are frequently metal, +of the same substance as the point of the weapon. +These iron spears are said to be manufactured by +the Tibboos. They are much more formidable +weapons than the spears with wooden shafts. +When mounted on their maharees, all the Kailouees +have shields made of the tanned skins of animals, +generally of the wild ox (<i>bugara wahoosh</i>). To +these arms the people in Aheer now begin to add +matchlocks, which are sent up from the coast. The +sword is not worn on the back when riding, but +hangs down on the right-hand side, sheathed in a +fantastic leather cage.</p> + +<p>A few of the poorer sort of Kailouees appear +with bows and arrows. The latter they carry in +very close bundles, so well packed up that not one +can separate from the other. They told me they +were poisoned, and would not let me touch them. +Amongst the accomplishments of the Gighis and +magicians of Africa is that of poisoning arrows.<a name="page317" id="page317"></a><span class="pageno">[317]</span> +The pagan nations are generally very expert in +this</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span style="display: block; margin-left: 14em;">"dreadful art,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To taint with deadly drugs the barbed dart."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The younger and more fashionable Kailouees +wear round their necks, and hanging down over their +breast, a large necklace of charms sewn in leather +bags. Some also wear a sort of cloth cap, called +bakin zakee, of a green colour, round which they +bind the turkadee, or black turban. On this cap +they also occasionally wear charms, done up in +small metal boxes. Their camels are very fantastically +dressed in leathern trappings.</p> + +<p>The great men, and indeed all those that can +afford it, despise the simple Kailouee costume, and +indulge in all the rich dresses which are so much +liked by the Moors of the coast,—burnouses, shasheeahs, +turbans, veneeses, caftans, tobes of silk, +&c.</p> + +<p>The dress of the women whom we see about is a +simple cotton tobe, covering them from neck to +heels. The colour of these tobes is generally blue-black, +dyed with indigo; some are glazed with +gum. Many, however, are white, and ornamented +in front about the neck with silken embroidery,—a +costume which gives them a very chaste and elegant +appearance. Sometimes the tobes are variegated +in colour, as are the trousers; but the sombre, or +pure white, are the most popular.<a name="page318" id="page318"></a><span class="pageno">[318]</span></p> + +<p>I have set down the Kailouee names for various +articles of dress as well as weapons:—</p> + +<table summary=""> +<tr><td>Green cloth cap</td><td></td><td>Bakin zakee.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Turban, or bandage round the head and face</td><td></td><td>Taghalmous.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Red or other caps</td><td></td><td>Takabout.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Frock and shirt</td><td></td><td>Teekatkat.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Trousers</td><td></td><td>Eskarbaee.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sandals</td><td></td><td>Eghateema.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Dagger</td><td></td><td>Azegheez.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sword</td><td></td><td>Alagh.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Spear</td><td></td><td>Ebzaghdeer.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shield</td><td></td><td>Aghar.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Arrow</td><td></td><td>Amour.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bow</td><td></td><td>Takanya.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Leathern bag for tobacco, pipe, needles,<br /> +thread, scissors, looking-glass, and other<br /> +small things,—nicknacks</td><td></td><td>Elbes.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Charm</td><td></td><td>Sheera.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>I can scarcely yet venture to pronounce an +opinion on the character of the Kailouees. They +decidedly differ from the Haghar and Azgher Tuaricks, +in being more civil and companionable. But +they seem to have acquired from Soudan the habit +of petty thieving, from which the Haghars are +especially free.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page319" id="page319"></a><span class="pageno">[319]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter19" id="chapter19"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<div class="summary"> +<p>Rainstorm—Overtures from En-Noor—Another Interview—Aheer +Fashions—A great Lady—Hoisting the British Flag—A devoted +Slave—Sultan of Asoudee—Attack on a Caravan—Purposed +Razzia—Desert News—Buying Wives—A peculiar Salutation—Oasis +of Janet—New Razzias—Costume of the Sultan—The +Milky Way—Noise at a Wedding—Unquiet Nights—Sickness +in the Encampment—A captive Scorpion—Nuptial +Festivities—An insolent Haghar—Prejudice about +Christians—Movements in Aheer—Bullocks.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Sept. 24th.</i>—We had a good deal of wind yesterday, +but no appearance of rain. This morning was fine, +clear, and warm; but just after noon a sudden fall +of rain came, followed, within five minutes, by a +tempest of thunder, lightning, rain, and hail, which +broke immediately over our heads, and carried away +our small tents. Even my Bornou tent, having +been dried up by the recent weather, admitted the +rain, and several of our things were wetted. The +tempest itself did not last more than fifteen or +twenty minutes; and by the time the moon rose in +the evening, all clouds had cleared away, and the +heavens were as pure as in the morning. I may +observe that the rain is less disagreeable to me than<a name="page320" id="page320"></a><span class="pageno">[320]</span> +the clouds of sand-dust, with which we are at other +times persecuted. The fine particles cover and pervade +everything, and getting between the skin and +the flannel, produce an irritation like the pricking +of needles.</p> + +<p>This day Yusuf brought a message from En-Noor, +to the effect that he had heard from various +people that I had brought a sword for him from +the Queen of England, and also a letter from Her +Majesty. He added: "I trust I have done nothing +to offend the Consul or his companions; and I pray +that there may be nothing between us but good +feeling and justice—no lying, nothing but truth and +fair dealing."</p> + +<p>It now seemed to me that a good opportunity +had arrived for introducing the subject of the treaty; +and I determined to make an effort, being convinced, +from recent transactions between En-Noor and his +brother chieftains, that he exerts paramount influence +in Aheer; so that it may be of considerable +benefit to Christian travellers that a treaty of amity +and commerce should be signed by him. Yusuf +therefore prepared a treaty in Arabic, and I one in +English. This done, I caused En-Noor to be informed +of our intentions, and, taking with me a +sword, went to visit him with some anxiety.</p> + +<p>We found the Sultan, in company with half-a-dozen +people; he received us in a very friendly +manner, and really seemed on this occasion to be +what he professes to be, the friend and Consul of<a name="page321" id="page321"></a><span class="pageno">[321]</span> +the English. I explained to him, that we certainly +had this treaty ready for him, and intended to +have presented it to him on our arrival; but on +account of our sufferings and the robberies committed +on us, and seeing the country in a state +of revolution, I had no heart to present to his +highness anything from the Queen of England. +However, now that things were more settled, and +as I saw there was authority in the country, I +had much pleasure in proposing for his signature +a treaty from my Government. At the same +moment, as an incentive, I presented the sword (a +small naval officer's sword, with a good deal of +polished brass and gilding about it, of the value, at +most, of five pounds). To my great satisfaction, +his highness accepted both treaty and present with +ardent manifestations of pleasure. He made me +read the document in English, to hear the sound of +our language; and he also desired me to leave with +him an English copy. This we did, with some explanation +of the contents in an Arabic letter on the +back. We then took our copy in Arabic. The +sword pleased him greatly, on account of its lightness, +for he is an old man, not very strong; and +because it glittered with gold. We wrote the +maker's name in Arabic, and gave directions to +have it well preserved. He inquired after Drs. +Barth and Overweg, and seemed to take great +interest in our welfare.</p> + +<p>In the midst of our conversation a lady, one of<a name="page322" id="page322"></a><span class="pageno">[322]</span> +the Sultan's female relations, came, moved no doubt +by curiosity, into the room. She was evidently a +fine dame, a person of fashion in this Saharan capital. +Her countenance, in due obedience to the +requirements of <i>ton</i>, was not "<i>rouged</i> up to the +eyes," but "<i>yellowed</i> up to the eyes!" There cannot +be a more appalling custom. Imagine a young +lady, of brown-black complexion, daubed with +brilliant yellow ochre! The paint covers the whole +face, from the roots of the hair to the lower +jaw, forming two semicircles with the upper lips. +Between the eyes are three black beauty-spots, descending +perpendicularly on the bridge of the nose. +The eyebrows are blackened, and joined, so as to +form one immense arch across the face, under the +yellow brow. Is it possible to disguise the human +countenance more completely?</p> + +<p>The dark-blue cotton skirt of this lady was +turned up behind over her head, so as to form a +kind of hood; but underneath she wore a coloured +petticoat. Generally, the women of Tintalous wear +a frock, or chemise, and a piece of cotton wrapper +over their head and shoulders.<a name="anchor18" id="anchor18"></a><a href="#footnote18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> This wrapper, +which serves as a shawl, is not unlike, in effect, +the black veil worn by the Maltese women. The +lady we saw at En-Noor's wore a profusion of necklaces, +armlets, and anklets of metal, wood, and horn. +She gazed about for some time and then went her +way. After asking and receiving permission to<a name="page323" id="page323"></a><span class="pageno">[323]</span> +hoist the British flag over the tents, and to fire a +salute, we imitated her example. This is my first +success in diplomacy! On returning, we prepared for +our evening's festivities, but the tempest assailing us +we waited till fairer weather.</p> + +<p>At five in the evening we hoisted the British +flag, and fired no less than a hundred musket discharges. +I do not recollect that this ceremony was +ever before performed in the desert, in Bornou +or Soudan, although the union-jack certainly now +flies at Mourzuk and Ghadamez, on the roofs of +the consular houses.</p> + +<p>Now I pray God that our great troubles may be +over in Aheer—little troubles we must always encounter, +and bear with fortitude. Our servants and +friends are much rejoiced at our success with En-Noor, +and they promise me farther success in Soudan +and Bornou. Alas! God alone knows what is +reserved for us; but we must not despair after these, +events of Aheer. At first all was black, without +one solitary ray of light; now, all the Sultans of +Aheer are determined they say, conjointly, to afford +us protection: whilst the people are showing themselves +more friendly every day.</p> + +<p>A strange thing is a devoted slave. Zangheema +is the devoted slave of En-Noor. He is his right +hand, his man of business, his vizier, his shadow, +his second self. Alternately Zangheema attends +the marts of Mourzuk and Kanou; and, fortunately +for us, he is now going to Kanou.<a name="page324" id="page324"></a><span class="pageno">[324]</span></p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—Whilst we were occupied in drying our +clothes after the previous day's tempest, we learned +that another Sultan had put himself on the list of +beggars. His Excellency Astakeelee of Asoudee has +written a long letter to En-Noor, of which we are the +subject. The substance is that it is a sin (harâm) to +plunder us Christians. En-Noor says we must send +him some trifle as a present. There remain yet to +come Lousou and some others. I am glad we are +not expected to give much in these cases, as our +means would not allow us to do so. I sent to Astakeelee +a red cloth caftan or long loose gown, a +white turban, a fez, a small looking-glass, and a +few cloves for the Sultana, the total value about +twelve dollars.</p> + +<p>Serious news has just come in from the northern +frontier. It appears that the Azgher who followed +us all the way from Aisou to Aheer, secretly +exciting the people against us, have joined +with the Kailouee borderers in an attack upon a +small Tibboo caravan. Two of the merchants have +been killed, and thirty-five slaves stolen and carried +away over the desert, in the direction of Tuat.</p> + +<p>This news was brought in the afternoon by a +caravan of Fezzanees, who have arrived from Ghât. +They declare that they buried the bodies of the +two murdered men. A servant who escaped gave +them the rest of the news. It is probable that the +Tibboos made considerable resistance on the road, +as they are brave fellows, and this resistance occasioned<a name="page325" id="page325"></a><span class="pageno">[325]</span> +their being murdered. The news has produced +great excitement.</p> + +<p>The people begin to see the evil effects of countenancing +the forced exactions made upon us. This +will be an instructive lesson to the holy marabouts +of Tintaghoda, who headed the tribes of the frontier +against us unfortunate Christians.</p> + +<p>When we met these very small caravans on +the road, with only two owners, three or four servants, +and some forty or fifty slaves, and all without +arms, or perhaps with only a couple of swords, I +used to wonder at their apparent security, and could +not help observing, when we were night and day +pursued by bandits, "These robbers must have an +extraordinary affection for Muslims, and be very +Deists themselves; for these few defenceless people +pass unmolested, and we are pursued continually, +although our caravan is full of arms."</p> + +<p>En-Noor and the new Sultan of Aghadez have +been talking loudly of a razzia to the north; they +will now see its absolute necessity, unless the route +between Aheer and Ghât is to be closed, except for +very large caravans.</p> + +<p>The Fezzanees who left Ghât nineteen days +after us also say that before they started the news +had arrived there that the Christians were all murdered +by the people of Janet. They add, besides, +that they met Waldee at Tajetterat, together with +the people of Janet, amounting to seventy maharees, +all encamped there. If true, probably these were<a name="page326" id="page326"></a><span class="pageno">[326]</span> +the Tuaricks, with whom we were menaced at Taghajeet. +The people of Janet were in pursuit of us. +Waldee persuaded them to retrace their steps, declaring, +which indeed was the truth, that the Christians +were by that time arrived in the country of +En-Noor, and were consequently beyond their pursuit. +The bandits hearing this, immediately returned.</p> + +<p>The Fezzanees praise the exertions which Waldee +made on our behalf. Hereafter we shall be +able, if we live, to verify this intelligence. It seems +doubtful that the people of Janet should be nine +days too late for us. However, our informants +declare they gave the brigands victuals and a few +presents.</p> + +<p>I suppose that the grossly-exaggerated accounts +which have been spread as to the vast sums that +Hateetah and Wataitee got from us had much to +do in getting up this fermentation in the desert of +Ghât. We knew already that all the tribes and +sheikhs were jealous of our escort. I must renew +my application to Gagliuffi for the restitution of the +property of the British Government; if not, the +people who form the proposed razzia will divide it +amongst themselves.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—En-Noor has sent me word this morning +that I may make myself quite at home in his city, +and have nothing whatsoever to fear. Moreover, +he begs to inform me that he has sent for our lost +camels to the districts where they are supposed to<a name="page327" id="page327"></a><span class="pageno">[327]</span> +be detained, with a peremptory order, that if they +are not immediately given up they are to be seized +by force, and if not found, other camels are to be +confiscated instead of them. This may be the first +effect of the slaughter of the Tibboos. It is quite +clear, however, that En-Noor is bound in honour to +recover for us our lost beasts of burden; their +detention must otherwise disgrace his authority.</p> + +<p>As soon as a Moor or an Arab gains a little +money, he begins in the first place to buy a new +wife. The merchants, especially those who traverse +the Sahara, have a wife and an establishment +at all the principal cities. When they have half-a-dozen +of these establishments they are then great +men. Es-Sfaxee has gained a little money by our +misfortunes, and he now begins to talk of buying a +young slave for a wife, and what not, to attend him +on the road. But no sailor, who sails the waters of +the world through and through, and has a lass at +every port, manages matters so well as the travelling +Moorish merchant. This Moor has his comfortable +home in every large city of the interior of +Africa, and no one inquires whether he exceeds the +number fixed by the law of the Prophet or not. +Indeed, no one knows how many wives he has, or +where they are.</p> + +<p>Ferajee, of the escort, had a particular salutation, +by which he used always to address me. It continues +to be repeated by some of our people: "Othrub +Gonsul! Fire off the gun, O Consul! Othrub<a name="page328" id="page328"></a><span class="pageno">[328]</span> +Gonsul!" This salute I always heard when Ferajee +was in a good humour, and now it is used to signify +that our affairs are looking up.</p> + +<p>According to a Tanelkum, Janet is entirely +peopled by Azgher or Ghât Tuaricks, and members +of the tribe of Aheethanaran, who now live on good +terms with the Azgher. This tribe is scattered +about as far as Falezlez. It was the people of the +same tribe who formed a razzia expedition against +us. The oasis of Janet, however, is not independent. +It is subject to Shafou; but has a local government +of its own.</p> + +<p>Every day brings the news of a new razzia. +This morning it is reported that some brigands of +Oulimid who inhabit a district beyond Aghadez, +came down upon the people of Aghadamou, a place +five days from Tintalous, on the route of Soudan, +destroyed their houses, and carried away a great +number of their camels. Aghadamou is represented +to be a wady, with a number of huts scattered about. +I had not heard of this place before as being on the +Soudan route.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon En-Noor walked out, and came +up to me and saluted me. As I passed by his +highness I had an opportunity of noticing his dress. +He wore over the body a plain blue-checked Soudan +robe, with trousers of a similar material; on his +head was a red cap bound round with a blue-black +bandage (turkadee), in the form of a turban, but +also brought, according to the invariable custom of<a name="page329" id="page329"></a><span class="pageno">[329]</span> +the Tuaricks, over and under the eyes. His shoes +were the common Soudan sandals; and thus, with a +long wand, or a white stick, he proceeded with a +slow-measured pace through the streets of the town. +A dependant followed the Sultan at a short distance, +but the absence of an escort proclaimed how deep-rooted +was his authority.</p> + +<p>To-day, for the first time, En-Noor sent to buy +something of us, viz. a loaf of white sugar. As +Overweg is going to Asoudee under the protection of +En-Noor, I gave him the loaf of sugar, and told +him to send it, on his part, as a present to the +Sheikh, and at the same time to ask him to get his +escort ready.</p> + +<p>The Fezzanees call the Milky Way, which appears +at this season nearly overhead early in the +evening, "the road of the dates," it being now the +time in which the dates ripen.</p> + +<p>Late in the evening a troop of twenty maharees +came riding straight up to our tents. Although +none of our people were gone to bed, although all +were up and about talking, not a single person saw +them coming but myself; and I only saw—none +of us heard, so noiselessly did they steal over the +sand. This troop merely came in to bait for the +night. They, however, brought some person with +them who is about to be married to a woman of +Tintalous.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—I rose early, having slept little on account +of noises of various sorts, which continued<a name="page330" id="page330"></a><span class="pageno">[330]</span> +all night long. First, there was a drum perpetually +beating, announcing rudely enough the approaching +nuptials; then there was a cricket singing shrill +notes at my head; and then there was the screech-owl +making the valley of Tintalous ring again with +its hideous shriek. Add to all, between the roll of +the big noisy drum, the cries and uproar of the +people. This morning there are groups of people +squatting all about. Two maharees are riding +round and round one group. Before another is a +man dancing as indelicately as a Moorish woman of +the coast.</p> + +<p>News of still another razzia ushers in the day. +A small caravan, it is reported, was attacked a few +days ago, on the route between this and Zinder. +The principal merchant was killed, and all the +goods and slaves carried away. The few agents +now in Tintalous see clearly that this route will +become, for the future, safe only for large caravans. +En-Noor says of the villages which were attacked +by the tribe of Oulimid, that the people must have +been chickens not to have defended themselves; +but the fact is, the whole country is now, to a +certain extent, abandoned to the pillage of lawless +banditti.</p> + +<p>In the evening the people contrived to celebrate +the preliminaries of the approaching nuptials. The +bride, I now find, is no less a personage than the +daughter of En-Noor,—a full-grown desert princess. +The Sfaxee and several other foreign merchants<a name="page331" id="page331"></a><span class="pageno">[331]</span> +fired in the evening salutes in honour of the +occasion. The drum was again kept beating all +night, accompanied again by the crickets and the +screech-owl. Oh for a quiet sleep!</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—Late in the evening another troop of +twenty maharees came to visit En-Noor, and assist +at the nuptials. They were known at some distance +by the jingling of the bells, which are always +worn on their camels on such occasions. The +drumming was kept up again the greater part of +the night, the screech-owl and crickets joining the +discord as before.</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—Several of our people have recently been +unwell, Yusuf amongst the rest. They take little +care of themselves, and attribute their illness to the +ghaseb. I expect we shall have them all ill in +Soudan.</p> + +<p>Early this morning I found Ibrahim, servant of +the Germans, holding in his hand and playing with +a huge scorpion, which he had caught near the +tents. He seemed to have fatigued it so much that +it could not sting. It kept, indeed, always striking +with its tail, but very feebly. Its head was not at +all prominently brought forward out of its body, and +it looked as if it had no head at all. It had ten legs. +I told Ibrahim that he was a marabout, at which +he was greatly flattered.</p> + +<p>The twenty maharees have joined the nuptial +festivities this morning. A number of women are +squatting in a group on the ground, and the men<a name="page332" id="page332"></a><span class="pageno">[332]</span> +mounted on their camels are riding round and +round them, sometimes in single file, and at other +times in two's and two's. Whilst this is going on, +another mounted party gallops up one by one to the +group from a short distance. All this is done to +the sound of rude noisy drums. I have not heard +any songs, or seen any other species of music but +this drum. There are, however, several drums of +different sizes, and producing various noises. They +are made of wood and with bullocks' hide.</p> + +<p>The women looloo as on the coast, and both +men and women dance; not exactly as the negroes +do, but still somewhat indelicately. Hamma, who +commanded our escort, has returned from visiting +his friends.</p> + +<p>The Tanelkums report that Hamma is something +like Achilles, for he has often been wounded, +having been in many battles, but none of his wounds +have ever proved fatal, or even much incommoded +him.</p> + +<p>It would seem that Tintalous, like all the Tuarick +countries, is a miserably poor place; for it is said +that none, or very few, of the people in the town +have a fire for cooking their <i>bazeen</i>, except the +great En-Noor himself. The time, however, approaches +for the departure of the caravans for Zinder, +whence they bring back a great quantity of +ghaseb and samen.</p> + +<p>A Haghar, or Ghât Tuarick, I know not which, +came into my tent this morning and behaved<a name="page333" id="page333"></a><span class="pageno">[333]</span> +insolently. Amongst other antics, he took up a +gun. I immediately wrested it out of his hands and +sent him out of the tent. Yusuf was present, but, +as usual, showed little spirit.</p> + +<p>My blacks were taken aback at my treating a +Haghar in this cavalier way; but I observe that +they are now more cautious in permitting strangers +to enter my tent. The day before I turned a saucy +Kailouee out, and my servants begin to understand +that I will not be pestered more with these people, +and so they keep them off. This is my only plan, +for I have told them a hundred times not to allow +strangers to come and molest my privacy.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—The noisy drums have ceased, and most +of the Targhee visitors have departed. The people, +however, still bring news of razzias, Kailouees with +Kailouees. A messenger has returned with his +report about the boat; it is quite safe and in good +hands, at Seloufeeat.</p> + +<p>A caravan arrived yesterday from Ghât, and reports +that Wataitee had returned to that place and +brought reassuring news respecting us. Behind is +coming another caravan, in which is some Moor from +Tripoli. Probably this person will bring news or letters. +From the report of Ibrahim, the Germans' servant, it +would seem that the people of Tintalous believe that +Christians eat human beings; and further, from what +I hear, this strange prejudice possesses the minds of +the lower classes in many countries of Soudan. +Such are the opinions of the semi-barbarians of<a name="page334" id="page334"></a><span class="pageno">[334]</span> +Africa respecting us and our boasted civilisation! +There is much to be done yet in the world before +mankind know one another, and acknowledge one +another as brethren.</p> + +<p>En-Noor sent word this morning that he and his +friends, the Sultans of Asoudee and Aghadez, had +combined a razzia against the people of Tidek and +Taghajeet, who had plundered us on the road; and +that fifty maharees had gone to execute their purposes. +This is the expedition which has been long +talked of: we shall see its results. Dr. Barth is +making arrangements for going to Aghadez.</p> + +<p>I have prepared a draft of a treaty, which Yusuf, +who accompanies Barth, will take with him. I +have also made a selection of presents for the +Sultan of Aghadez.</p> + +<p>There is now an immense movement throughout +all the Kailouee country. It is supposed that the +razzia for the west has other ulterior objects besides +merely chastising the Fadeea and people of Tidek +for plundering us. The power of En-Noor more +and more developes itself. He seems to be determined +to take every opportunity to consolidate it.</p> + +<p><i>Oct. 1st.</i>—Yesterday evening I saw the first +drove of bullocks in this country; it belonged to +En-Noor. Overweg made a bet with me that En-Noor +would give us one of these animals to-day. +I took his bet of twelve small Aheer cheeses against +his six, and won; for the greedy old dog has sent +us no bullock. This morning a man offers me a<a name="page335" id="page335"></a><span class="pageno">[335]</span> +draught bullock for sale. The price demanded is +fifteen metagals of this country, two and a-half of +which are equal to a Spanish dollar. He lowered +his price to eight, and the blacks offered seven, but +eight were at last given. One of our people mounted +the naked back of the bullock, and rode him as +quietly and easily as a little pony.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote18" +id="footnote18"></a><a href="#anchor18">[18]</a> Answering to the gown and head-veil of the +fellâhs.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page336" id="page336"></a><span class="pageno">[336]</span></p> + +<h3>NOTE ON THE +TERRITORIAL DIVISION OF AHEER OR ASBEN.</h3> + + +<p>In the text, a list of towns and villages has +already been given. The following, obtained from +another source subsequently, is far more complete, +and probably more correct. In it the towns and +districts are all described according to their situation +from Tintalous, the point from which they are made +to radiate, both with regard to their compass direction +and distance. This account of the territorial +division of Aheer is nearly an exact translation from +an Arabic paper, drawn up by Mahommed Makhlouk, +Fighi and Secretary of the Sultan En-Noor. +I have not distinguished any of the emphatic letters, +the present transcript being enough for my purpose.</p> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Western Division.</span></h4> + +<table cellpadding="2" summary="western division"> +<tr><td></td><td>Distance</td><td>No. of Men.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Satartar, N.W.</td><td>3 hours</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Takardaee</td><td>3 h.</td><td align="right">30<a name="page337" id="page337"></a><span class="pageno">[337]</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Akeeka</td><td>4 h.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Asqudaee, S.S.W.</td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right">120</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tagharet</td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshagadmara</td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ebenturaghak</td><td>8 h.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tugurut</td><td>10 h.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshemeya</td><td>8 h.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Edaka</td><td>2 days</td><td align="right">150</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taleghat </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Agata </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tegheedda </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Agalal </td><td>1 ½ d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eretawa </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ghargàr-Dandamu </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yinwajuda </td><td>3 hours</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tandawee </td><td>5 days</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Baeenabu </td><td>5 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sakalmas </td><td>6 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Egadas (Aghadez)</td><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td>Banfalas </td><td>6 hours</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tanwansa</td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tingareegaree</td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Asaduragam</td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Areera</td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshezoulah </td><td>1 day</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Esalel </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tagurat </td><td>1 ½ d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Abarakam </td><td>1 ½ d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshemeleen </td><td>1 ½ d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Egalak </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshummuru </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tadanak </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Asada </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">50<a name="page338" id="page338"></a><span class="pageno">[338]</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Bawas </td><td>1 ½ d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taoudaras </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tafaraghat </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shintaburag </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tasouba </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Emalaoulee </td><td>5 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +</table> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Northern Division.</span></h4> + +<table cellpadding="2" summary="northern division"> +<tr><td></td><td>Distance</td><td>No. of Men.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tamgag </td><td>2 days</td><td align="right"> 300</td></tr> +<tr><td>Takamas </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Zeggagheen </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Zalaelat </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 300</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tadag </td><td>3 hours</td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tintabourak </td><td>3 days</td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tafadad </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Esnalam </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Safes </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tagut </td><td>6 hours</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Takurnaraghat </td><td>1 day</td><td align="right"> 70</td></tr> +<tr><td>Aberkam </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right"> 40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tanutmulat </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right"> 30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tintaghoda, N.W. </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 200</td></tr> +<tr><td>Efruwan </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Takreza </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 60</td></tr> +<tr><td>Kalfadäee, N.W. </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right"> 500</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fadaee, N.W. </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right"> 400</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tidek, N.N.W. (a Wady) </td><td>3 ½ d.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wadekee </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Anumagaran </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 150</td></tr> +<tr><td>Asarara, N.N.W. </td><td>2 hours</td><td align="right"> 30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bungutan </td><td>2 days</td><td align="right"> 150</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tadoudawat </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">100<a name="page339" id="page339"></a><span class="pageno">[339]</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Bakerzuk </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Azutu </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Edukal </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 80</td></tr> +<tr><td>Agargar </td><td>6 hours</td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Foudet </td><td>6 h.</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maghet </td><td>1 day </td><td align="right"> 40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshafouak </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Egatram </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seloufeeat, N.W. </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 150</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tafkun </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Agalal </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Dellan </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right"> 400</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ekroun, N. </td><td>8 hours</td><td align="right"> 60</td></tr> +</table> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eastern Division.</span></h4> + +<table summary="eastern division"> +<tr><td>Aghoua, N.E.</td><td colspan="3"></td><td>8 hours</td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Amuzan<br /> +Amuzeen<br /> +Amuzzan</td> +<td style="font-size: 300%;">{</td> +<td>N.E. Three<br /> +places<br /> +adjoining.</td> +<td style="font-size: 300%;">}</td> +<td>7 h.<br /> +7 h.<br /> +7 h.</td> +<td align="right">100<br /> +20<br /> +10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Azanghaeedan </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 8 h.</td><td align="right"> 40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Efarghar </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 8 h. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tazaranet (date palms) </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 day </td><td align="right"> 40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Aghaglee </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshintajaee </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Kalawazaee </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eyangal </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ajin-Yeeris </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Afara </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tafusas </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Zagadaou, S.E. </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshintagheedeen </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maddad?<a name="page340" id="page340"></a><span class="pageno">[340]</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Tansumat </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 hour </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Alerasa </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 2 days </td><td align="right"> 30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Elakaran </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tezreera </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 2 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Azaneeras, N.E. </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 or 2 d. </td><td align="right">50 or 60</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tanasuma<br /> +Tanousamet</td> +<td style="font-size: 200%;">}</td><td>one place?</td><td></td><td>6 hours </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Talaou, E.W.E. </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 6 h. </td><td align="right"> no people</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bukezan, N.E. </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 8 h. </td><td align="right"> 15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Atas </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 day </td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thaweezawa </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tagaee </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Touweezawan </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Elabag </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ebul?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tagumarat </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gutag </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tadakeet </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Aghazar-Nanou, S.E. </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Azar </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Aghammelaee </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Zanwazgar </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 2 hours </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thintaghalee </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 day </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Talaeeshena </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 1 d. </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shafazres </td><td colspan="3"></td><td> 2 d. </td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> +</table> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Southern Division.</span></h4> + +<table cellpadding="2" summary="southern division"> +<tr><td>Shouwerkedan </td><td>2 days</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Atakaee or Tatakaee </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Dagergadu </td><td>1 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Aganjam </td><td>2 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Baren Tafeedee </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right">*<a name="page341" id="page341"></a><span class="pageno">[341]</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Ajeewa </td><td>4 days</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tableel </td><td>3 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Asawee </td><td>3 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Amzagar </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Takarakum </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tsheezan-Tarakat </td><td>2 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Akaram </td><td>3 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshehousat </td><td>3 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Emugazem </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taraten </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tazeezaleet </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eface </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshublaghlaghah </td><td>4 d.</td> <td align="right"> *</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mairee </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Baouwat </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taghoura </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rasma </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Afaraghab </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gursed </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shekareshoureen </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bomdaee </td><td> 2 hours</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jintalewat </td><td>1 day</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshinwanou </td><td>1 d.</td><td align="right">50</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gazawa </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Talazeghreen </td><td>2 d.</td> <td align="right"> 1000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Afasas </td><td>2 d.</td> <td align="right"> 1000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Efoutsham </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> no people</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tuburneet (a well) </td><td>2 d.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tammanee </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Takarzarga </td><td>3 hours</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Anakkara </td><td>2 days</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshinkeewa </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wallag </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right">100<a name="page342" id="page342"></a><span class="pageno">[342]</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Ekrenusoul </td><td>2 day</td><td align="right">60</td></tr> +<tr><td>Aghargharan-Tulama </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wuna </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ajeeru-Taleya </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">200</td></tr> +<tr><td>Barghut </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Asaba </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Takraoukaraou </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tourayal </td><td>5 d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ekourak </td><td>6 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bagazem, S.W. </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">380</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taghaoujee </td><td>7 d.</td><td align="right">600</td></tr> +<tr><td>Nagharabu </td><td>2 d.</td><td align="right"> no people</td></tr> +<tr><td>Enfasag </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tshegayeen </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tagbata </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Nabaraou </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Azangarran </td><td>3 d.</td><td align="right"> no people</td></tr> +<tr><td>Anfag </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">200</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ekuffawan </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ataghas-Tawarat </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td>Aghalgawa </td><td>4 d.</td><td align="right"> no people</td></tr> +<tr><td>Egloulaf, S.W. </td><td>6 hours</td><td align="right">200</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>In the places marked with a star there are no inhabitants, +the people having emigrated to Bornou, or been +captured and carried thither.</p> + +<p>The number of men, or adult males enumerated +in the above columns, amounts to 12,731. Taking +this number as the foundation-stone of Asbenouee +statistics, the population may be reckoned in this +way, according to the manners of the Kailouee +people:—<a name="page343" id="page343"></a><span class="pageno">[343]</span></p> + +<table summary=""> +<tr><td>Adult males </td><td></td><td align="right">12,731</td></tr> +<tr><td>Adult females (wives) </td><td></td><td align="right">12,731</td></tr> +<tr><td>Female slaves or concubines (a fifth of the adult) </td><td></td><td align="right"> 5,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Children (two for every adult male) </td><td></td><td align="right"> 25,462</td></tr> +<tr><td>Town of Tintalous </td><td></td><td align="right"> 450</td></tr> +<tr><td>City of Aghadez </td><td></td><td class="bb" align="right"> 2,500</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td>58,874</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>There are still remaining to be added in the +computation the statistics of numerous tribes on the +frontiers, or surrounding Aheer and Aghadez.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h3>END OF VOL. I.</h3> + + +<p class="centre">LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central +Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1, by James Richardson + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF A MISSION *** + +***** This file should be named 17164-h.htm or 17164-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/7/1/6/17164/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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