diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:50:06 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:50:06 -0700 |
| commit | 9eb43336b851a3834764c3911fa7ebad4646b7b1 (patch) | |
| tree | 5aff6cf54b580e88f02f9a25cf4d78aa1ed6382b /16994-h | |
Diffstat (limited to '16994-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 16994-h/16994-h.htm | 6532 |
1 files changed, 6532 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/16994-h/16994-h.htm b/16994-h/16994-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e56b642 --- /dev/null +++ b/16994-h/16994-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6532 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume II (of 2), by Philip Thicknesse</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + body { margin-left:8%; margin-right:7%; } + + p { + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 0; + line-height: 1.4em; + } + + body > p { + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1em; + } + + .toc {margin-left:10%;} + + p.break { + margin-top: 2em; + } + + h1+p, h2+p, h3+p { text-indent: 0; } + + p.noindent { text-indent: 0; } + + dd, li { + margin-top: 0.25em; + line-height: 1.2em; + } + + h1,h2,h3,h4 { + text-align: center; + clear: both; + } + + hr { + width:45%; + margin-top: 6em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + .center { text-align: center; text-indent:0; } + .center table { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left; } + .center img { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; } + + td {padding-left: 12px;} + + p.right { + text-align: right; + } + + .off { list-style-type: none; } + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .footnotes { + padding: 0 1em 1em 1em; + } + + .footnote { + font-size: 90%; + } + + .footnote .label { + float:left; + text-align:left; + width:2em; + } + + .footnote a { + text-decoration:none; + } + + .fnanchor { + font-size: 80%; + text-decoration: none; + vertical-align: 0.25em; + } + + div.poem { + text-align:left; + margin-left:5%; + width:90%; + } + + .poem h4 { + margin-left: 5em; + font-weight: normal; + font-size: large; + text-decoration: none; + } + + .poem .stanza { + margin-top: 1em; + } + + .stanza div + { + line-height: 1.2em; + margin-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em; + } + + .poem .i0 {display:block; margin-left: 2em;} + .poem .i1 {display:block; margin-left: 3em;} + .poem .i2 {display:block; margin-left: 4em;} + .poem .i3 {display:block; margin-left: 5em;} + .poem .i4 {display:block; margin-left: 6em;} + .poem .i5 {display:block; margin-left: 7em;} + .poem .i6 {display:block; margin-left: 8em;} + .poem .i7 {display:block; margin-left: 9em;} + .poem .i8 {display:block; margin-left: 10em;} + .poem .i9 {display:block; margin-left: 11em;} + .poem .i10 {display:block; margin-left: 12em;} + .poem .i11 {display:block; margin-left: 13em;} + .poem .i12 {display:block; margin-left: 14em;} + .poem .i13 {display:block; margin-left: 15em;} + .poem .i14 {display:block; margin-left: 16em;} + .poem .i15 {display:block; margin-left: 17em;} + + ins.correction { + text-decoration:none; + border-bottom: thin dotted gray; + } + + a:link {color:#0000ff; + text-decoration:none} + link {color:#0000ff; + text-decoration:none} + a:visited {color:#0000ff; + text-decoration:none} + a:hover {color:#ff0000} + + hr.full { width: 100%; } + pre {font-size: 75%;} + + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Year's Journey through France and Part of +Spain, Volume II (of 2), by Philip Thicknesse</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume II (of 2)</p> +<p>Author: Philip Thicknesse</p> +<p>Release Date: November 4, 2005 [eBook #16994]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)***</p> +<p> </p> +<h4>E-text prepared by Robert Connal, Leonard Johnson,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (<a href="https://www.pgdp.net/">https://www.pgdp.net/</a>)<br /> + from page images generously made available by<br /> + the Bibliothèque nationale de France + (<a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/">http://gallica.bnf.fr/</a>)</h4> +<p> </p> +<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Project Gutenberg also has Volume I of this work. See + <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/16485"> + https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/16485</a><br /> + <br /> + Images of the original pages are available through the + Bibliothèque nationale de France. See + <a href="http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-102009"> + http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-102009</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<div class="toc"> +<p title="Generated; not in original book.">TABLE OF CONTENTS</p> +<ul class="off"> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXV">LETTER XXXV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXVI">LETTER XXXVI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXVII">LETTER XXXVII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXVIII">LETTER XXXVIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXIX">LETTER XXXIX.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XL">LETTER XL.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLI">LETTER XLI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLII">LETTER XLII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLIII">LETTER XLIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLIV">LETTER XLIV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLV">LETTER XLV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLVI">LETTER XLVI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLVII">LETTER XLVII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLVIII">LETTER XLVIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLIX">LETTER XLIX.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_L">LETTER L.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LI">LETTER LI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LII">LETTER LII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LIII">LETTER LIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LIV">LETTER LIV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LV">LETTER LV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LVI">LETTER LVI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#FABLE">FABLE</a></li> +<li><a href="#DESCRIPTION">DESCRIPTION</a></li> +<li><a href="#GENERAL_HINTS">GENERAL HINTS</a></li> +</ul> +</div> +<hr /> +<h1>A</h1> + +<h1>YEAR'S JOURNEY</h1> + +<h1>THROUGH</h1> + +<h1>FRANCE,</h1> + +<h1>AND</h1> + +<h1>PART OF SPAIN.</h1> + + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>PHILIP THICKNESSE.</h2> + + +<p class="center">VOLUME II</p> + + + +<p class="center">DUBLIN</p> + +<p class="center">Printed By J. Williams, (No. 21.) Skinner-Row.</p> + +<p class="center">M,DCC,LXXVII. +</p> + + +<hr /> +<h2>A</h2> + +<h2>JOURNEY, &c.</h2> + + +<h2>LETTER XXXIV.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Nismes</span></p> + +<p>SIR,</p> + +<p class="noindent">I am very certain that a man may travel +twice through Spain, and half through +France, before he sees a woman of so much +beauty, elegance, and breeding, as the mistress +of the house I lodge in near this city. +I was directed to the house, and recommended +to the lady, as a lodger; but both +were so fine, and superior in all respects to +any thing I had seen out of Paris, that I +began to suspect I had been imposed upon. +The lady who received me appeared to be +(it was candle-light) about eighteen, a +tall, elegant figure, a beautiful face, and an +address inferior to none: I concluded she +was the daughter, till she informed me, +that <i>Mons. Saigny</i>, her husband, was gone +to <i>Avignon</i>. What added, perhaps, to this +lady's beauty in my eyes, or rather ears, +was her misfortune,—she could not speak +louder than a gentle whisper. After seeing +her sumptuous apartments, I told her I +would not ask what her price was, but tell +her what I could afford only to give; and +observed, that as it was winter, and the +snow upon the ground, perhaps she had +better take my price than have none. She +instantly took me by the hand and said, +she had so much respect for the English +nation, that my price was her's; and with +a still softer whisper, and close to my ear, +said, I might come in as soon as I pleased—"<i>Quand +vous voudrez, Monsieur</i>," +said she. We accordingly took possession +of the finest apartments, and the best beds +I ever lay on. The next day, I saw a genteel +stripling about the house, in a white +suit of cloaths, dressed <i>en militaire</i>, and began +to suspect the virtue of my fair hostess, +not perceiving for some hours that it was +my hostess herself; in the afternoon she +made us a visit in this horrid dress,—(for +horrid she appeared in my eyes)—her +cloaths were white, with red cuffs and +scarlet <i>lappels</i>; and she held in her straddling +lap a large black muff, as big as a +porridge-pot. By this visit she lost all +that respect her superlative beauty had so +justly entitled her to, and I determined +she should visit me no more in man's apparel. +When I went into the town I mentioned +this circumstance, and there I learnt, +that the real wife of <i>Mons. Saigny</i> had +parted from him, and that the lady, my +hostess, was his mistress. The next day, +however, the master arrived; and after being +full and finely dressed, he made me a +visit, and proffers of every attention in his +power: he told me he had injured his fortune, +and that he was not rich; but that he +had served in the army, and was a gentleman: +he had been bred a protestant, but +had just embraced the true faith, in order +to qualify himself for an employment about +the court of the Pope's <i>Legate</i> at <i>Avignon</i>. +After many expressions of regard, he asked +me to dine with him the next day; +but I observed that as he was not rich, +and as I paid but a small rent in proportion +to his noble apartments, I begged to +be excused; but he pressed it so much, +that I was obliged to give him some <i>other +reasons</i>, which did not prove very pleasing +ones, to the lady below. This fine lady, +however, continued to sell us wood, wine, +vinegar, sallad, milk, and, in short, every +thing we wanted, at a very unreasonable +price. At length, my servant, who by agreement +made my soup in their kitchen, +said something rude to my landlord, who +complained to me, and seemed satisfied +with the reprimand I had given the man; +but upon a repetition of his rudeness, +<i>Mons. Saigny</i> so far forgot himself as to +speak equally rude to me: this occasioned +some warm words, and so much ungovernable +passion in him, that I was obliged +to tell him I must fetch down my +pistols; this he construed into a direct +challenge, and therefore retired to his apartments, +wrote a card, and sent it to me +while I was walking before the door with +a priest, his friend and visitor, and in sight +of the <i>little female captain his second</i>, and +all the servants of the house; on this card +was wrote, "<i>Sir, I accept your proposition</i>;" +and before I could even read it, he +followed his man, who brought it in the +true stile of a butler, rather than a butcher, +with a white napkin under his arm. You +may be sure, I was no more disposed to +fight than <i>Mons. Saigny</i>; indeed, I told +him I would not; but if any man attacked +me on my way to or from the town, where +I went every day, I would certainly defend +myself: and fortunately I never met +<i>Mons. Saigny</i> in the fortnight I staid after +in his house; for I could not bear to +leave a town where I had two or three very +agreeable acquaintance, and one (<i>Mons. +Seguier</i>) whose house was filled as full of +natural and artificial curiosities, as his head +is with learning and knowledge. Here too +I had an opportunity of often visiting the +Amphitheatre, <i>the Maison Carree</i>, (so Mons. +Seguier writes it) and the many remains +of Roman monuments so common in and +about <i>Nismes</i>. I measured some of the +stones under which I passed to make the +<i>tout au tour</i> of the Amphitheatre, they were +seventeen feet in length, and two in thickness; +and most of the stones on which the +spectators sat within the area, were twelve +feet long, two feet ten inches wide, and +one foot five inches deep; except only +those of the sixth row of seats from the +top, and they alone are one foot ten inches +deep; probably it was on that range the +people of the highest rank took their seats, +not only for the elevation, but the best situation +for sight and security; yet one of +these great stones cannot be considered +more, in comparison to the whole building, +than a single brick would be in the +construction of Hampton-Court Palace. +When I had the sole possession (and I had +it often) of this vast range of seats, where +emperors, empresses, Roman knights, and +matrons, have been so often seated, to see +men die wantonly by the hands of other +men, as well as beasts for their amusement, +I could not but with pleasure reflect, +how much human nature is softened since +that time; for notwithstanding the powerful +prevalency of custom and fashion, I +do not think the ladies of the present age +would <i>plume</i> their towering heads, and curl +their <i>borrowed</i> hair, with that glee, to see +men murdered by missive weapons, as to +die at their feet by deeper, tho' less visible +wounds. If, however, we have not those +cruel sports, we seem to be up with them +in prodigality, and to exceed them in luxury +and licentiousness; for in Rome, not +long before the final dissolution of the state, +the candidates for public employments, in +spite of the penal laws to restrain it, <i>bribed +openly</i>, and were chosen sometimes <i>by arms</i> +as well as money. In the senate, things +were conducted no better; decrees of great +consequence were made when very few +senators were present; the laws were violated +by private knaves, under the colour +of public necessity; till at length, <i>Cæsar</i> +seized the sovereign power, and tho' he +was slain, they omitted to recover their +liberty, forgetting that</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"A day, an hour, of virtuous Liberty</div> +<div class="i0">Is worth a whole eternity of bondage."</div> +<div class="i8"><i>Addison's</i> <span class="smcap">Cato</span>.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>I can almost think I read in the parallel, +which I fear will soon be drawn between +the rise and fall of the British and Roman +empire, something like this;—"Rome +had her <span class="smcap">Cicero</span>; Britain her <span class="smcap">Camden</span>: +Cicero, who had preserved Rome +from the conspiracy of <i>Catiline</i>, was +banished: <span class="smcap">Camden</span>, who would have +preserved Britain from a bloody civil +war, removed." The historian will +add, probably, that "those who brought +desolation upon their land, did not mean +that there should be no commonwealth, +but that right or wrong, they should +continue to controul it: they did not +mean to burn the capitol to ashes, but +to bear absolute sway in the capitol:—The +result was, however, that though +they did not mean to overthrow the +state, yet they risqued all, rather than +be overthrown themselves; and they rather +promoted the massacre of their fellow-citizens, +than a reconciliation and +union of parties,"—<span class="smcap">Thus fell Rome</span>—Take +heed, <span class="smcap">Britain</span>!</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXV" id="LETTER_XXXV"></a>LETTER XXXV.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Arles</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">I left <i>Nismes</i> reluctantly, having formed +there an agreeable and friendly intimacy +with Mr. <i>D'Oliere</i>, a young gentleman of +Switzerland; and an edifying, and entertaining +acquaintance, with Mons. <i>Seguier</i>. +I left too, the best and most sumptuous +lodgings I had seen in my whole tour; but +a desire to see <i>Arles</i>, <i>Aix</i>, and <i>Marseilles</i>, +&c. got the better of all. But I set out +too soon after the snow and rains, and I +found part of the road so bad, that I wonder +how my horse dragged us through so +much clay and dirt. When I gave you +some account of the antiquities of <i>Nismes</i>, +I did not expect to find <i>Arles</i> a town fraught +with ten times more matter and amusement +for an antiquarian; but I found it +not only a fine town now, but that it abounds +with an infinite number of monuments +which evince its having once been +an almost second Rome. There still remains +enough of the Amphitheatre to +convince the beholder what a noble edifice +it was, and to wonder why so little, +of so large and solid a building, remains. +The town is built on the banks of the +Rhone, over which, on a bridge of barges, +we entered it; but it is evident, that in +former days, the sea came quite up to it, +and that it was a haven for ships of burden; +but the sea has retired some leagues +from it, many ages since; beside an hundred +strong marks at <i>this</i> day of its having +been a sea-port formerly, the following +inscription found a century or two ago, in +the church of <i>St. Gabriel</i>, will clearly +confirm it:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i4">M. FRONTONI EVPOR</div> +<div class="i3">I<span class="smcap">iiii</span>IVIR AVG. COL. JVLIA.</div> +<div class="i1">AVG. AQVIS SEXTIIS NAVICVLAR.</div> +<div class="i1">MAR. AREL. CVRAT EJVSD. CORP.</div> +<div class="i0">PATRONA NAVTAR DRVENTICORVM.</div> +<div class="i4">ET VTRICVLARIORVM.</div> +<div class="i3">CORP. ERNAGINENSIUM.</div> +<div class="i5">JULIA NICE VXOR.</div> +<div class="i4">CONJVGI KARISSIMO.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Indeed there are many substantial reasons +to believe, that it was at this town <i>Julius +Cæsar</i> built the twelve gallies, which, +from the cutting of the wood to the time +they were employed on service, was but +thirty days.—That it was a very considerable +city in the time of the first Emperors, +is past all doubt. <i>Constantine</i> the Great +held his court, and resided at <i>Arles</i>, with +all his family; and the Empress <i>Faustina</i> +was delivered of a son here (<i>Constantine</i> +the younger) and it was long before so celebrated +for an annual fair held in the +month of August, that it was called <i>le +Noble Marche de Gaules</i>. And <i>Strabo</i>, in +his dedication of his book to the Emperor, +called it "<i>Galliarum Emporium +non Parvum</i>;" which is a proof that it was +celebrated for its rich commerce, &c. five +hundred years before it became under the +dominion of the Romans. But were I +capable of giving you a particular description +of all the monuments of antiquity +in and near this town, it would compose a +little book, instead of a sheet or two of +paper. I shall therefore only pick out a +few things which have afforded me the +most entertainment, and I hope may give +you a little; but I shall begin with mentioning +what must first give you concern, in +saying that in that part of the town called +<i>la Roquette</i>, I was shewn the place where +formerly stood an elevated Altar whereon, +three young citizens were sacrificed annually, +and who were fattened at the public +expence during a whole year, for the horrid +purpose! On the first of May their throats +were cut in the presence of a prodigious +multitude of people assembled from all +parts; among whom the blood of the victims +was thrown, as they imagined all their +sins were expiated by that barbarous sacrifice; +which horrid practice was put a stop +to by the first Bishop of <i>Arles</i>, <span class="smcap">St. Trophime</span>. +The Jews, who had formerly +a synagogue in <i>Arles</i>, were driven out in +the year 1493, when that and their celebrated +School were demolished. There +were found about an hundred after, among +the stones of those buildings some Hebrew +characters neatly cut, which were copied +and sent to the Rabbins of Avignon, to be +translated, and who explained them then +thus:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Chodesh: Elvl. Chamescheth, lamech, nav. Nislamv. +Bedikoth. Schradai.</p></div> + +<p>i.e. they say,</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"In the month of August five thousand and thirty—the +Visitation of God ceased."</p></div> + +<p>Perhaps the plague had visited them.—There +was also another Hebrew inscription, +which was on the tomb of a famous +Rabbin called Solomon, surnamed the +grandson of David.</p> + +<p>The Amphitheatre of <i>Arles</i> was of an +oval form, composed of three stages; each +stage containing sixty arches; the whole +was built of hewn stone of an immense size, +without mortar, and of a prodigious thickness: +the circumference above, exclusive +of the projection of the architecture, was +194 toises three feet, the frontispiece 17 +toises high and the area 71 toises long and +52 wide; the walls were 17 toises thick, +which were pierced round and round with +a gallery, for a convenience of passing in +and out of the seats, which would conveniently +contain 30,000 men, allowing +each person three feet in depth and two in +width; and yet, there remain at this day +only a few arches quite complete from +top to bottom, which are of themselves a +noble monument. Indeed one would be +inclined to think that it never had been +compleated, did we not know that the Romans +left nothing unfinished of that kind; +and read, that the Emperor <i>Gallus</i>gave +some superb spectacles in the Amphiteatre +of <i>Arles</i>, and that the same amusements +were continued by following Emperors. +Nothing can be a stronger proof than these +ruins, of the certain destruction and corruption +of all earthly things; for one would +think that the small parts which now remain +of this once mighty building would, +endure as long as the earth itself; but what +is very singular is, that this very Amphitheatre +was built upon the ruins of a more +mighty building, and perhaps one of a more +substantial structure. <i>Tempus edax rerum, +tuque invidiosa vetustas omnia destruis</i>. In +the street called <i>St. Claude</i>, stood a triumphal +arch which was called <i>L'Arche admirable</i>; +it is therefore natural to conclude, +that the town contained many others of +less beauty. There are also within the walls +large remains of the palace of <i>Constantine</i>. +A beautiful antique statue of <i>Venus</i> +was found here also, about an hundred and +twenty years ago.—That a <i>veritable</i> fine woman +should set all the beaux and <i>connoisseurs</i> +of a whole town in a flame, I do not much +wonder; but you will be surprized when I +tell you that this cold trunk of marble, (for +the arms were never found) put the whole +town of <i>Arles</i> together by the ears; one +<i>Sçavant</i> said it was the goddess <i>Diana</i>, +and wrote a book to prove it; another insisted +upon it, that it was the true image of +<i>Venus</i>; then starts up an Ecclesiastic, who +<i>you know has nothing to do with women</i>, and +he pronounced in dogmatical terms, it was +neither one nor the other; at length the +wiser magistrates of the town agreed to +send it as a present to their august monarch +Lewis the XIVth; and if you have +a mind to see an inanimate woman who +has made such a noise in the world, you +will find her at <i>Versailles</i>, without any +other notice taken of her or the quarrels +about her, than the following words written +(I think) upon her pedestal, <i>La Venus +d'Arles</i>. This ended the dispute, as I +must my letter.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXVI" id="LETTER_XXXVI"></a>LETTER XXXVI.</h2> + + +<p>I have not half done with <i>Arles</i>. The +more I saw and heard in this town, the +more I found was to be seen. The remains +of the Roman theatre here would of +itself be a sufficient proof that it was a +town of great riches and importance. +Among the refuse of this building they +found several large vases of baked earth, +which were open on one side, and which +were fixed properly near the seats of the +audience to receive and convey the sounds +of the instruments and voices of the actors +distinctly throughout the theatre, which +had forty-eight arches, eleven behind the +scenes of ten feet wide, three grand arches +of fourteen feet wide, and thirty-one of +twelve feet; the diameter was thirty-one +canes, and the circumference seventy-nine; +and from the infinite number of +beautiful pieces of sculpture, frizes, architraves, +pillars of granite, &c. which have +been dug up, it is very evident that this +theatre was a most magnificent building, +and perhaps would have stood firm to this +day, had not a Bishop of <i>Arles</i>, from a +principle of more piety than wisdom, stript +it of the finest ornaments and marble pillars, +to adorn the churches. Near the +theatre stood also the famous temple of +<i>Diana</i>; and, as the famous statue mentioned +in my former letter was found beneath +some noble marble pillars near that +spot, it is most likely <i>La Venus d'Arles</i> is +nevertheless the Goddess <i>Diana</i>.</p> + +<p>I never wish more for your company +than when I walk, (and I walk every day) +in the Elysian fields. The spot is beautiful, +the prospect far and near equally so: +in the middle of this ancient <i>Cimetiere</i> +stands a motly building, from the middle +of which however rises a cupola, which at +the first view informs you it is the work of +a Roman artist; and here you must, as it +were, thread the needle between an infinite +number of Pagan and Christian monuments, +lying thick upon the surface in the +utmost disorder and confusion, insomuch, +that one would think the Day of Judgment +was arrived and the dead were risen. +Neither <i>Stepney</i> church-yard, nor any one +in or near a great city, shew so many headstones +as this spot does stone coffins of an +immense size, hewn out of one piece; the +covers of most of which have been broken +or removed sufficiently to search for such +things as were usually buried with the +dead. Some of these monuments, and +some of the handsomest too, are still however +unviolated. It is very easy to distinguish +the Pagan from the Christian <ins class="correction" title="This should read 'monuments'.">monnments</ins>, +without opening them, as all the +former have the Roman letters DM (<i>Diis +Manibus</i>) cut upon them. It is situated, +according to their custom, near the high-way, +the water, and the marshes. You +know the ancients preferred such spots for +the interment of the dead.</p> + +<p>The tombs of <i>Ajax</i> and <i>Hector</i>, <span class="smcap">Homer</span> +says, were near the sea, as well as +other heroes of antiquity; for as they considered +man to be composed of earth and +water, his bones ought to be laid in one, +and near the other.</p> + +<p>I will now give you a few of the most +curious inscriptions; but first I will mention +a noble marble monument, moved +from this spot into the <i>Cimetiere</i> of the +great Hospital. This tomb is ornamented +with Cornucopiæ, <i>Pateræ</i>, &c. and in a +shield the following inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">CABILIAE D.F. APPRVLLAE FLAM</div> +<div class="i0">D DESIGNATAE COL. DEA. AUG. VOC. M</div> +<div class="i2">O. ANNOS XIIII, MENS II. DIES V.</div> +<div class="i2">MARITVS VXORI PIENTISSIMAE.</div> +<div class="i8"><span class="smcap">posuit</span>.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>This poor girl was not only too young +to die, but too young to marry, one would +think; I wish therefore her afflicted husband +had told us how many years he had +been married to a wife who died at the +age of fourteen, two months, and five +days. The cornucopiæ, I suppose, were +to signify that this virtuous wife, I was +going to say maid, was the source of all +his pleasure and happiness. The <i>Pateræ</i> +were vases destined to receive the blood of +the victims.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Supponunt alij cultros, tepidumque cruorem</div> +<div class="i0">Suscipiunt Pateris,—<i>Says the Poet</i>.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>On each side of the tomb are the symbols +of sacrifice. It is very evident from +the fine polish of this monument, that her +husband had obtained the Emperor's particular +leave to finish it highly.</p> + +<p>Rogum <i>ascia ne Polito</i> says the law of +the twelve tables.</p> + +<p>On another tomb, which is of common +stone, in the middle of a shield supported +by two Cupids, is the following inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">M IVNIO MESSIANO</div> +<div class="i0">——VTRICI. CORP. ARELAT.</div> +<div class="i0">D EIVS D. CORP. MAG. III. F M</div> +<div class="i2">QUI VIXIT ANN. XXVIII.</div> +<div class="i1">M. V. D. X. IVNIA VALERIA.</div> +<div class="i2">ALVMNO CLARISSIMO.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The first word of the second line is much +obliterated.</p> + + +<p>There are an infinite number of other +monuments with inscriptions; but those +above, and this below, will be sufficient +for me to convey to you, and you to my +friend at <i>Winchester</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2"><ins class="correction" title="See transcriber notes, end of document.">L DOMIT. DOMITIANI</ins></div> +<div class="i0">EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM.</div> +<div class="i0">D PECCOCEIA VALENTINA M</div> +<div class="i1">CONIUGI PIENTISSIMA.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Before I leave <i>Arles</i>, and I leave it reluctantly, +whatever you may do, I must +not omit to mention the principal monument, +and pride of it, at this day, i.e. +their Obelisque. I will not tell you where +nor when it was dug up; it is sufficient to +say, it was found here, that it is a single +piece of granite, sixty-one feet high, and +seven feet square below; yet it was elevated +in the Market-place, upon a modern +pedestal, which bears four fulsome complimentary +inscriptions to <i>Lewis</i> the XIV. +neither of which will I copy. In elevating +this monstrous single stone, the inhabitants +were very adroit: they set it upright +in a quarter of an hour, in the year +1676, just an hundred years ago, amidst +an infinite number of joyful spectators, +who are now all laid in their lowly graves; +for though it weighed more than two +thousand hundred weight, yet by the help +of capsterns, it was raised without any +difficulty. The great King <i>Harry</i> the +IVth had ordered the houses in the arena +of the Amphitheatre to be thrown down, +and this obelisk to be fixed in the center +of it; but his death, and <i>Lewis</i>'s vanity, +fixed it where it now stands; it has no +beauty however to boast of but its age and +size, for it bears neither polish, characters, +nor hieroglyphicks, but, as it seems to +have been an Egyptian monument, the +inhabitants of <i>Arles</i> have, like those people, +consecrated it below to their King, +and above to the sun: on the top is fixed +a globe of azure, sprinkled with <i>fleurs +de lis d'or</i>, and crowned with a radiant +sun, that is to say, as the sun was made +by GOD to enlighten the world, so <span class="smcap">Lewis +le Grand</span> was made to govern it.</p> + + +<p>I am sure now, you will excuse my +mentioning what is said of this great man +<i>below</i>; but speaking of light, I must not +omit to mention, that there are men of +veracity now living in this town, who affirm, +that they have seen, upon opening +some of the ancient monuments here, the +eternal lamps burning. The number of +testimonies we have of this kind puts the +matter past a doubt, that a flame has appeared +at the lip of these lamps when first +the tombs have been opened; one was +found, you know, on the <i>Appian</i> way, in +the tomb of <i>Cicero</i>'s daughter, which had +burnt more than seventeen centuries; another +at <i>Padua</i>, which had burnt eight hundred +years, and which was found hanging +between two little phials, one of gold, the +other of silver, which were both quite +full of liquor, extremely clear, as well as +many others; but as it is impossible to believe +that flame can exist, and not consume +that which feeds it, is it not more natural +to conclude that those lamps, phials, &c. +contained a species of phosphorus, which +became luminous upon the first opening of +the tombs and the sudden rushing in of +fresh air; and that the reverse of what +is generally supposed is the fact, that they +are not extinguished, but illuminated by +the fresh air they receive? I have seen several +of these lamps here and elsewhere, +most of which are of baked earth. It has +been said, that there is an oil to be extracted +from gold, which will not consume, +and that a wick of <i>asbestos</i> has burnt +many years in this oil, without consumption +to either. I have seen a book written +by a German Jesuit, to confirm this +fact; so there is authority for you, if not +conviction.</p> + + +<p>As I know your keen appetite after +antiquities, I will send you a few other +inscriptions, and leave you to make your +own comments; and <i>voila</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i3">D M</div> +<div class="i2">L. HOSTIL. TER.</div> +<div class="i4">SILVANI.</div> +<div class="i1">ANN. XXIIII. M. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> D.</div> +<div class="i0">XV MATER FIL PIJSSIMI</div> +<div class="i1">MISERA ET IN LVCIV.</div> +<div class="i1">AETERNALI BENIFICI.</div> +<div class="i2">O NOVERCAE.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The following inscription is cut upon +a marble column, which stands near the +Jesuits' church:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">SALVIS D.D.N.N. THEODOSIO, ET VALENTINIANO.</div> +<div class="i3">P.F.V. AC TRIVM. SEMPER AUG. XV.</div> +<div class="i3">CONS. VIR. INL. AUXILIARIS PRÆ.</div> +<div class="i3">PRÆT, GALLIA. DE ARELATE MA,</div> +<div class="i7">MILLIARIA PONI. S.</div> +<div class="i15">M.P.S.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>In the ancient church of <i>St. Honore</i>, +which stands in the center of all these +Heathen and Christian monuments, are to +be seen nine Bacchanalians of very ancient +workmanship; where also is the tomb of +<i>St. Honore</i>, employed as the altar of the +church; and beneath the church are catacombs, +where the first Christians retired +to prayer during the persecution by the +Emperors, and where is still to be seen +their altar and seven ancient sepulchres, of +beautiful marble, and exquisitely worked; +the first is the tomb of <i>St. Genet</i>; the second +of <i>St. Roland</i>, Archbishop of <i>Arles</i>; +the third of <i>St. Concord</i>, with an epitaph, +and two doves with olive branches in their +beaks, cut in bass relief, and underneath +are the two letters X and P; on this tomb +is the miraculous cross seen in the heavens +by <i>Constantine</i>, who is represented before +it on his knees; and on the cover of this +tomb are the heads of <i>Constantine</i>, <i>Faustina</i>, +and his son; and they say the Emperor +saw this miracle in the heaven from the +very <i>Cimetiere</i> in which this monument +stands, i.e. in the year 315; the fifth is +the tomb of <i>St. Dorothy</i>, Virgin and Martyr +of <i>Arles</i>; the sixth <i>St. Virgil</i>, and the +seventh <i>St. Hiliare</i>, (both Archbishops of +<i>Arles</i>,) who has borrowed a Pagan sepulchre, +for it is adorned with the principal +divinities of the ancients in bass relief.—It +seems odd to see on a Christian Bishop's +tomb <i>Venus</i>, and the three Destinies. The +people here say, that this tomb represents +human life, as the ancients believed that +each God contributed something towards +the being. Be that as it may, the tomb +is a very curious one, and much admired +by the <i>Connoisseurs</i>, for its excellent workmanship; +but what is more extraordinary +than all these, is, that this catacomb, standing +in the middle of the others, with its +cover well and closely fixed, has always +water in it, and often is quite full, +and nobody can tell (<i>but one of the priests +perhaps</i>) from what source it comes. There +is also in this church the tomb and a long +Latin Epitaph of <i>St. Trophime</i>, their first +Bishop; but the characters are very Gothic, +and the Cs are square, [Image: E E with no mid bar]; he +came here in the year 61, and preached +down that abominable practice of sacrificing +three young men annually. He +died in the year 61, at 72 years of age. +On the front of the Metropolitan church +of <i>Arles</i>, called <i>St. Trophime</i>, are the two +following lines, in Gothic characters, cut +above a thousand years:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Cernitur eximius vir Christi Discipulorum,</div> +<div class="i0">De Numero Trophimus, hic Septuaginta duorum.</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>This church was built in the year 625, +by <i>St. Virgil</i>, and is a curious piece of antiquity +within, and particularly without; +but I will not omit to give you one of its +singularities within; it is an ancient and +curious inscription in large Gothic letters, +near the organ:<br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="Gothic inscription in church, St Trophime."> +<tr><td>Terrarum Roma</td> <td>Gemina de luce majistrA.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ros Missus Semper</td> <td>Aderit: velut incola IoseP</td></tr> +<tr><td>Olim Contrito</td> <td>Letheo Contulit OrchO.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>To read this you will see you must take the +first letter of each verse: TRO, <i>Trophemus</i>; +GAL, <i>Galliæorum</i>; and APO, <i>Apostolus</i>. +The letter H, belonging to the +word <i>Joseph</i>, must be carried to the word +<i>Orcho</i>, and the P must stand by itself.</p> + +<p><i>Trophimus Galliarum Apostolus, ut ros +missus est, ex urbe Romæ rerum Dominæ +Gemina de luce, scilicet a Petro et Paulo, +Ecclesiæ luminaribus; Contrito orcho Letheo, +nempe statim post Christi Passionem qua Dæmonis +& orchi caput contrivit, semper animos +nostras nutriet, cibo illo, divinæ fidei quem +nobis contulit: ut alter Joseph qui olim +Ægypti populum same pereuntem liberavit.</i></p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXVII" id="LETTER_XXXVII"></a>LETTER XXXVII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Marseilles</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">Soon after we left the town of <i>Arles</i>, +on our way to <i>Aix</i>, and this city, we +entered upon a most extraordinary and extensive +plain; it is called the <i>Crau</i>, and is +a principal and singular domain, belonging +to and situated on the south side of that +city; it is ten leagues in diameter; on +which vast extent, scarce a tree, shrub, or +verdure is visible; the whole spot being +covered with flint stones of various sizes, +and of singular shapes. <i>Petrarch</i> says, as +<i>Strabo</i>, and others have said before him, +that those flint stones fell from Heaven +like hail, when <i>Hercules</i> was fighting there +against the giants, who, finding he was +likely to be overcome, invoked his father +<i>Jupiter</i>, who rained this hard shower of +flint stones upon his enemies, which is +confirmed by <i>Æschylus</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"Jupiter Alcidem quando respexit inormem,</div> +<div class="i0">Illachrymans, Ligures saxoso perpluit imbre."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>But as this account may not be quite +satisfactory to you, who I know love truth +more than fable, I am inclined to think +you will consider <i>Possidonius</i>'s manner of +accounting for it more feasible: He says, +that it was once a great lake, and having a +bed of gravel at the bottom, those pebble +stones, by a succession of ages, have grown +to the size they now appear; but whether +stones grow which lie upon the surface of +the earth and out of their proper strata, +I must leave you and other naturalists to +determine, without repeating to you what +<i>Aristotle</i>, and others, have said upon that +subject; and therefore, instead of telling +you either what they say, or I think, I will +tell you what I know, which is, that barren +as the <i>Crau</i> appears to be, it not only +feeds, but fattens an infinite number of +sheep and cattle, and produces such excellent +wine too in some parts of it, that it is +called <i>Vin de Crau</i>, by way of pre-eminence: +it has a poignant quality, is very +bright, and is much esteemed for its delicious +flavour. The herb which fattens +the sheep and feeds such quantities of cattle +is a little plant which grows between +and under the flint stones, which the sheep +and other animals turn up with their feet, +to come at the bite; beside which, there +grows a plant on this <i>Crau</i> that bears a +vermilion flower, from which the finest +scarlet dye is extracted; it is a little red +grain, about the size of pea, and is gathered +in the month of May; it has been +sold for a crown a pound formerly; and +a single crop has produced eleven thousand +weight. This berry is the harvest of +the poor, who are permitted to gather it +on a certain day, but not till the Lord of +the Manor gives notice by the sound of a +horn, according to an ancient custom and +privilege granted originally by King <span class="smcap">Rene</span>.—On +my way over it, I <i>gathered</i> only a +great number of large larks by the help +of my gun, though I did not forget my +<i>Montserrat</i> vow: It was a fine day, and +therefore I did not find it so tedious as it +must be in winter or bad weather; for if +any thing can be worse than sea, in bad +weather, it must be this vast plain, which +is neither land or sea, though not very +distant from the latter, and in all probability +was many ages since covered by the +ocean.</p> + +<p>The first town we came to after passing +this vast plain, I have forgot the name of; +but it had nothing but its antiquity and a +noble and immense old castle to recommend +it, except a transparent agate statue +of the Virgin in the church, as large as +the life, with a <i>tin crown</i> upon her head. +Neither the town nor the inhabitants had +any thing of the appearance of French +about them; every thing and every body +looked so wild, and the place was in such a +ruinous condition, that I could scarce believe +I was not among the Arabs in <i>Egypt</i>, +or the ruins of <i>Persepolis</i>. Without the +town, in a fine beautiful lawn stands a +most irregular high and rude rock, perpendicular +on all sides, and under one side +of it are ruins of a house, which I suppose +was inhabited by the first <i>Seigneur</i> in the +province. I looked in, and found the +ruins full of miserable inhabitants, I fancy +many families; but it exhibited such a +scene of woe, that I was glad to get out +again; and upon inquiry, I found it had +been in that state ever since it had been +used as an hospital during the last +plague.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXVIII" id="LETTER_XXXVIII"></a>LETTER XXXVIII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Marseilles</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">As the good and evil, which fall within +the line of a road, as well as a worldly +traveller, are by comparison, I need not +say what a heavenly country <i>France</i> (with +all its untoward circumstances) appeared +to us <i>after</i> having journeyed in <i>Spain</i>: +what would have put me out of temper +before, became now a consolation. <i>How +glad I should I have been, and how perfectly +content, had it been thus in Spain</i>, was always +uppermost, when things ran a little +cross in France.</p> + +<p>Travellers and strangers in France, in +a long journey perhaps, have no connection +with any people, but such who have +a design upon their purse. At every <i>Auberge</i> +some officious coxcomb lies in wait +to ensnare them, and under one pretence +or other, introduces himself; he will offer +to shew you the town; if you accept +it, you are saddled with an impertinent +visiter the whole time you stay; if you +refuse it, he is affronted; so let him; for +no gentleman ever does that without an +easy or natural introduction; and then, +if they are men of a certain age, their acquaintance +is agreeable and useful. An +under-bred Frenchman is the most offensive +civil thing in the world: a well-bred +Frenchman, quite the reverse.—Having +dined at the table of a person of fashion +at <i>Aix</i>, a pert priest, one the company, +asked me many questions relative +to the customs and manners of the English +nation; and among other things, I +explained to him the elegance in which +the tables of people of the first fashion +were served; and told him, that when +any one changed his dish, that his plate, +knife and fork, were changed also, and +that they were as perfectly bright and +clean as the day they came from the silver-smith's +shop. After a little pause, +and a significant sneer,—Pray Sir, (said +he) and do you not change your napkins +also? I was piqued a little, and told him +we did not, but that indeed I had made +a little mistake, which I would rectify, +which was, that though I had told him +the plate, knife, and fork, were so frequently +changed at genteel tables in England, +there was one exception to it; for +it sometimes happened that low under-bred +priests (especially on a Sunday) were +necessarily admitted to the tables of people +of fashion, and that the butler sometimes +left them to wipe their knife upon +their bread, as I had often seen <i>Lewis</i> the +Fifteenth do, even after eating fish with it.—As +it was on a Sunday I had met with +this fop of divinity, at a genteel table, I +thought I had been even with him, and I +believe he thought so too, for he asked +me no more questions; yet he assured me +at his going out, "<i>he had the honour to be +my most obedient humble servant</i>." This +over-strained civility, so unlike good-breeding, +puts me in mind of what was +said of poor Sir <span class="smcap">Wm. St. Q——n</span>, after +his death, by an arch wag at <i>Bath</i>: Sir +William, you know, was a polite old gentleman, +but had the manners and breeding +rather of the late, than the present age, +and though a man deservedly esteemed +for his many virtues, was by some thought +too ceremonious. Somebody at the round +table at <i>Morgan</i>'s Coffee-house happened +to say, alas! poor Sir William! he is gone; +but he was a good man, and is surely gone +to Heaven, and I can tell you what he +said when he first entered the holy gates! +the interrogation followed of course: +Why, said he, seeing a large concourse of +departed souls, and not a soul that he +knew, he bowed to the right and left, +said he begged pardon,—he feared he was +troublesome, and if so, he would instantly +retire.—So the Frenchman, when he says +he would cut himself in four pieces to +serve you, only means to be very civil, and +he will be so, if it does not put him to any +expence.</p> + +<p><i>Aix</i> is a well built city; the principal +street called the <i>Course</i>, is very long, very +broad, and shaded by stately trees; in the +middle of it are four or five fountains, +constantly running, one of which is of very +hot water, at which man and beast are +constantly drinking. The city abounds +with a great deal of good company, drawn +to it from all parts of Europe by the efficacy +of the waters, and to examine its +antiquities, for it has in and about it many +Greek as well as Roman monuments.</p> + +<p>Some part of the country between <i>Aix</i> +and this populous city is very beautiful, +but near the town scarce any vegetation +is seen; on all sides high hills and broken +rocks present themselves; and one wonders +how a city so large and so astonishingly +populous is supported. When I +first approached the entrance gate, it opened +a perspective view of the <i>Course</i>, a street +of great extent, where the heads of the +people were so thick together, that I concluded +it was a <span class="smcap">fair</span> day, and that the +whole country was collected together; +but I found it was every day the same. +I saw a prodigious quantity of game and +provisions of all kinds, not only in the +shops, but in the streets, and concluded +it was not only a cheap, but a plentiful +country; but I soon found my mistake, +it was the evening before Lent commenced, +and I could find no provisions of +any kind very easily afterwards, and every +thing very dear. You may imagine the +price of provisions at <i>Marseilles</i> when I +tell you that they have their poultry from +<i>Lyons</i>; it is however a noble city, crouded +with men of all nations, walking in the +streets in the proper habits of their country. +The harbour is the most secure sea-port +in Europe, being land-locked on all +sides, except at a verry narrow entrance; +and as there is very little rise or fall of +water, the vessels are always afloat. Many +of the galley slaves have little shops near +the spot where the galleys are moored, +and appear happy and decently dressed; +some of them are rich, and make annual +remittances to their friends. In the <i>Hotel +de Ville</i> are two fine large pictures, +which were taken lately from the Jesuits' +college; one represents the dreadful scenes +which were seen in the <i>Grand Course</i> during +the great plague at <i>Marseilles</i>; the other, +the same sad scene on the Quay, before the +doors of the house in which it now hangs. +A person cannot look upon these pictures +one minute before he becomes enthralled +in the woes which every way present +themselves. You see the good Bishop +confessing the sick, the carts carrying out +the dead, children sucking at the breasts +of their dead mothers, wives and husbands +bewailing, dead bodies lowering out of the +higher windows by cords, the slaves plundering, +the Priests exhorting, and such a +variety of interesting and afflicting scenes +so forcibly struck out by the painter, that +you seem to hear the groans, weepings, +and bewailings, from the dying, the sick +and the sound; and the eye and mind +have no other repose on these pictures but +by fixing it on a dead body. The painter, +who was upon the spot, has introduced his +own figure, but armed like a serjeant with +a halberd. The pictures are indeed dreadfully +fine; one is much larger than the other; +and it is said the town Magistrates +cut it to fit the place it is in; but it is impossible +to believe any body of men could +be guilty of such an act of <i>barbarism</i>! +There is still standing in this town, the +house of a Roman senator, now inhabited +by a shoe-maker. In the cathedral they +have a marble-stone, on which there is engraved, +in Arabic characters, a monumental +inscription to the following effect:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i1">"<span class="smcap">God</span> is alone permanent.</div> +<div class="i0">This is the Sepulchre of his servant and Martyr,</div> +<div class="i0">who having placed his confidence in the Most</div> +<div class="i0">High, he trusts that his sins will be forgiven."</div> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0"><span class="smcap">Joseph</span>, son of <span class="smcap">Abdallah</span>, of the town of <i>Metelin</i>,</div> +<div class="i7">died in the moon <i>Zilhage</i>.</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>I bought here an Egyptian household +<i>God</i>, or <i>Lar</i> of solid metal, which was +lately dug up near the city walls; it is about +nine inches high, and weighs about +five pounds. Several of the hieroglyphic +characters are visible on the breast and +back, and its form is that of an embalmed +mummy. By a wholesome law of this city, +the richest citizen must be buried like the +poorest, in a coffin of nine livres value, +and that coffin must be bought at the +general Hospital. The sale of these coffins +for the dead, goes a great way towards +the support of the poor and the sick.</p> + +<p>At this town I experienced the very reverse +in every respect of what I met with +at <i>Barcelona</i>, though I had no better recommendation +to Mr. <span class="smcap">Birbeck</span>, his Britannick +Majesty's Agent here, than I had +to the Consul of <i>Barcelona</i>; he took my +word, at first sight, nay, he took my notes +and gave me money for them, and shewed +me and my family many marks of friendly +attention: Such a man, at such a distance +from ones own country, is a cordial to a +troubled breast, and an acquisition to every +Englishman who goes there either for +health or curiosity. Mr. <i>Birbeck</i> took me +with him to a noble Concert, to which he +is an annual subscriber, and which was +performed in a room in every respect suitable +to so large a band, and so brilliant an +assembly: He and his good wife were the +only two British faces I had seen for many +months, who looked like Britons. I shall, +indeed I must, soon leave this town, and +shall take <i>Avignon</i> on my way to <i>Lyons</i>, +from whence you shall soon hear from me +again.</p> + +<p>I had forgot to mention, when I was +speaking of <i>Montpellier</i>, that the first gentry +are strongly impressed with the notion +of the superiority of the English, in +every part of philosophy, more especially +in the science of physic; and I found at +<i>Montpellier</i>, that these sentiments so favourable +to our countrymen, had been +much increased by the extraordinary knowledge +and abilities of Dr. <span class="smcap">Milman</span>, an +English physician, who resided there during +the winter 1775. This gentleman, +who is one of Doctor <span class="smcap">Radcliffe's</span> travelling +physicians, had performed several +very astonishing cures, in cases which the +French Physicians had long treated without +success: And indeed the French physicians, +however checked by interest or +envy, were obliged to acknowledge this +gentleman's uncommon sagacity in the +treatment of diseases. What I say of this +ingenious traveller, is for your sake more +than his; for I know nothing more of him +than the fame he has left behind him at +<i>Montpellier</i>, and which I doubt not will +soon be verified by his deeds among his +own countrymen.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXIX" id="LETTER_XXXIX"></a>LETTER XXXIX.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Avignon.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">There is no dependence on what +travellers say of different towns and places +they have visited, and therefore you +must not lay too much stress upon what +I say. A Lady of fashion, who had travelled +all over France, gave the preference +to the town I wrote last to you from (<i>Marseilles</i>); +to me, the climate excepted, it is +of all others the most disagreeable; yet +that Lady did not mean to deceive; but +people often prefer the town for the sake +of the company they find, or some particular +or local circumstance that attended +their residence in it; in that respect, I too +left it reluctantly, having met with much +civility and some old friends there; but +surely, exclusive of its fine harbour, and +favourable situation for trade, it has little +else to recommend it, but riot, mob, and +confusion; provisions are very dear, and +not very good.</p> + +<p>On our road here we came again through +<i>Aix</i>. The <i>Mule blanche</i> without the town, +is better than any auberge within, and +Mons. <i>L'Abbe Abrard Prætor, de la ordre +de St. Malta</i>, is not only a very agreeable, +but a very convenient acquaintance +for a stranger, and who is always ready to +shew the English in particular, attention, +and who had much attention shewn him +by Lord A. <span class="smcap">Percy</span> and his Lady.</p> + +<p>From <i>Aix</i> we passed through <i>Lambresque</i>, +<i>Orgon</i>, and <i>Sencage</i>, a fine country, full of +almond trees, and which were in full blossom +on the 7th of March. At <i>Orgon</i> the +post-house was so bad, that after my horse +was in the stable, I was obliged to put him +to, and remove to the <i>Soleil d'Or</i>, without +the town, and made a good move too. +The situation of <i>Notre Dame de St. Piere</i>, +a convent on a high hill, is worthy of notice, +and the antiquity of the town also.—Five +leagues from <i>Orgon</i> we crossed a +very aukward passage in a ferry-boat, and +were landed in the Pope's territories, about +five miles from <i>Avignon</i>. The castle, and +higher part of the town, were visible, rising +up in the middle of a vast plain, fertile +and beautiful as possible. If we were +charmed with the distant view, we were +much more so upon a nearer approach; +nothing can be more pleasing than the +well-planted, and consequently well-shaded +coach and foot roads all round this pretty +little city; all shut in with the most beautiful +ancient fortification walls I ever beheld, +and all in perfect repair; nor were +we asked any questions by the Pope's soldiers, +or Custom-house Officers. I had a +letter to Dr. <span class="smcap">Power</span>, an English Physician +in this town, who received me with great +civity, and made me known to <span class="smcap">Lord +Mountgarret</span>, and Mr. <span class="smcap">Butler</span>, his +son, with whom I had the honour to spend +some very agreeable hours: his Lordship +has an excellent house here, and keeps a +table, truly characteristic of the hospitality +of his own country.—And now I cannot +help telling you of a singular disorder which +attacked me the very day I arrived; and +the still more singular manner I got well: +the day before I arrived, we had been almost +blown along the road to <i>Orgon</i> by a +most violent wind; but I did not perceive +that I had received any cold or injury from +it, till we arrived here, and then, I had +such an external soreness from head to +foot, that I almost dreaded to walk or stir, +and when I did, it was as slow as my feet +could move; after continuing so for some +days, I was much urged to dine with Lord +<span class="smcap">Mountgarret</span>, on St. Patrick's day; I +did so, and by drinking a little more than +ordinary, set nature to work, who, without +any other Doctor, did the business, by +two or three nights' copious sweats. I +would not have mentioned this circumstance, +but it may be the <i>mal du pais</i>, and +ought to be mentioned for the <i>method of +cure</i>.</p> + +<p>There was not quite so good an understanding +between the Pope's <i>Legate</i> and +the English residing here, as could be wished; +some untoward circumstance had happened, +and there seemed to be faults on +both sides; it was carried, I think, to such +a length, that when the English met him, +they did not pull off their hats; but as it +happened before I came, and as in our +walks and rides we often met him airing +in his coach, we paid that respect which is +everywhere due to a first magistrate, and +he took great pains to return it most graciously; +his livery, guards, &c. make a very +splendid appearance: he holds a court, and +is levee'd every Sunday, though not liked +by the French. At the church of St. <i>Didier</i>, +in a little chapel, of mean workmanship, +is the tomb of the celebrated <i>Laura</i>, +whose name <i>Petrarch</i> has rendered immortal; +the general opinion is, that she +died a virgin; but it appears by her tomb, +that she was the wife of <i>Hugues de Sade</i>, +and that she had many children. About +two hundred years after her death, some +curious people got permission to open her +tomb, in which they found a little box, +containing some verses written by <i>Petrarch</i>, +and a medallion of lead, on one side of +which was a Lady's head and on the reverse, +the four following letters, M.L.M.E.</p> + +<p><i>Francis</i> the First, passing thro' <i>Avignon</i>, +visited this tomb, and left upon it the following +epitaph, of his own composition:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"En petit lien compris vous pouvez voir</div> +<div class="i0">Ce qui comprend beaucoup par renommèe</div> +<div class="i0">Plume, labour le langue & le devoir</div> +<div class="i0">Furent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aimée</div> +<div class="i0">O gentille ame, etant tant estimée</div> +<div class="i0">Qui le pourra louer quen se laissant?</div> +<div class="i0">Car la parole est toujours reprimée</div> +<div class="i0">Quand le sujet surmonte le disant."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>This town is crowded with convents +and churches. The convent of the <i>Celestines</i>, +founded by <i>Charles</i> the VIth, is richly +endowed, and has noble gardens: there +are not above fourteen or fifteen members, +and their revenue is near two thousand +pounds sterling a year. In their church +is a very superb monument of Pope <i>Clement</i> +the VIIth, who died here in the year +1394, as a long Latin inscription upon it +announces. They shew in this house a +picture, painted by King <i>Renee</i>; it represents +the frightful remains of his beloved +mistress, whose body he took out of the +grave, and painted it in the state he then +found it, i.e. with the worms crawling about +it: it is a hideous figure, and hideously +painted; the stone coffin stands on a +line with the figure, but is above a foot +too short for the body; and on the other +side is a long scrole of verses, written in +Gothic characters, which begin thus:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"<i>Une fois fus sur toutes femmes belle</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>Mais par la mort suis devenue telle</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>Machair estoit tres-belle fraische & tendre</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>O'r est elle toute tournee en cendre.</i>"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>There follow at least forty other such lines.</p> + +<p>There is also in this convent, a fine monument, +on which stands the effigies of <i>St. +Benezet</i>, a shepherd of <i>Avignon</i>, who built +(they say) the bridge from the town over +the Rhone, in consequence of a dream, in +the year 1127: some of the noble arches +are still standing, and part of a very pretty +chapel on it, nearly in the middle of the +river; but a great part of the bridge has +been carried away, many years since, by +the violence of the river, which often not +only overflows its banks, but the lower +part of the town. In 1755, it rose seventeen +feet higher than its usual flowing, and +I saw marks in many of the streets, high +above my head, against the sides of houses, +which it had risen to; but with all my industry, +I could find no <i>mark upon the house +where Lady Mary Wortley Montagu dwelt</i>, +though she resided some time here, and +though I endeavoured to find it.</p> + +<p>I need not describe the celebrated fountain +of <i>Vaucluse</i>, near this town, where +<i>Petrarque</i> composed his works, and established +Mount Parnassus. This is the only +part of France in which there is an Inquisition, +but the Officers seem content with +their profits and honours, without the +power.</p> + +<p>One part of the town is allotted to the +Jews, where about six or seven hundred +live peaceably and have their synagogue; +and it was here the famous rabbin <i>Joseph +Meir</i> was born; he died in the year 1554; +he was author, you know, of <i>Annals des +Rois de France</i>, and <i>de la Maison Ottomane</i>.</p> + +<p>Not far from <i>Avignon</i>, on the banks of +the same rapid river, stands <i>Beaucaire</i>, famous +for its annual <span class="smcap">fair</span>, where merchandize +is brought from all parts of Europe, +free of all duties: it begins on the +22d of July; and it is computed that eight +million of livres are annually expended +there in eight days. <i>Avignon</i> is remarkable +for the No. Seven, having seven ports, +seven parishes, seven colleges, seven hospitals, +and seven monasteries; and I may +add, I think, seven hundred bells, which +are always making a horrid jingle, for they +have no idea of ringing bells harmoniously +in any part of France.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XL" id="LETTER_XL"></a>LETTER XL.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">After a month's residence at <i>Avignon</i>, +where I waited till the weather +and roads amongst the high <i>Dauphine</i> +mountains were both improved, I sat out +for this city. I had, you know, outward +bound, dropt down to <i>Port St. Esprit</i> by +water, so it was a new scene to us by land, +and I assure you it was a fine one; the vast +and extensive rich vales, adorned on all +sides with such romantic mountains, could +not be otherwise, in such a climate. Our +first stage was only four leagues to <i>Orange</i>; +this is the last town in the Pope's territories; +and within a quarter of a mile of it +stands, in a corn field, a beautiful Roman +triumphal arch, so great in <i>ruins</i>, that it +would be an ornament even in Rome. The +<i>Palais Royal</i> at this town, has nothing to +recommend it, but that it affords a prospect +of this rich morsel of antiquity.</p> + +<p>From <i>Orange</i> we passed through <i>Pierlaite, +Donzeir</i>, and several smaller towns, +and we lay one night at a single house, +but an excellent auberge, called <i>Souce</i>, +kept by an understanding sensible host.</p> + +<p>At a little village called <i>A'tang</i>, on the +banks of the Rhone, we stopped a day or +two, to enjoy the sweet situation. Just +opposite to it, on the other side of the river, +stands a large town, (<i>Tournau</i>,) which +added to the beauty of our village, over +which hangs a very high mountain, from +whence the best Hermitage wine is collected: +I suppose it is called <i>Hermitage</i>, +from a Hermit's cell on the top of it; but +so unlike the <i>Montserrat</i> Hermitages, that +I contented myself with only tasting the +Hermit's wine; it was so good indeed, +that though I did not see how it was possible +to get it safe to the north side of +France, I could not withstand the temptation +of buying a cask, for which I was to +pay twelve guineas, and did pay one as earnest, +to a very sensible, and I believe honest +and opulent wine merchant, who, however, +made me a present of two bottles when +I came away, almost worth my guinea; it +is three livres a bottle on the spot; and he +shewed me orders he had received from +men of fashion in England, for wine; among +which was one from Mr. <i>Ryder</i>, Sir +<i>Dudley Ryder</i>'s son I fancy, who, I found, +was well satisfied with his former dealings. +Do you know that Claret is greatly improved +by a mixture of Hermitage, and +that the best Claret we have in England +is generally so <i>adulterated</i>?</p> + +<p>The next towns we passed were <i>Pevige</i> +and <i>Vienne</i>, the latter only five leagues +from this city. It is a very ancient town, +and was formerly a Roman colony. The +cathedral is a large and noble Gothic +structure, and in it is a fine tomb of Cardinal +<i>Mountmoin</i>, said to be equal in workmanship +to <i>Richlieu</i>'s in the <i>Sorbonne</i>, but +said to be so, by people no ways qualified +to judge properly; it is indeed an expensive +but a miserable performance, when +put in competition with the works of <i>Girrardeau</i>. +About half a mile without the +town is a noble pyramidal Roman monument, +said to have stood in the center of +the Market-place, in the time of the Romans. +There is also to be seen in this +town, a Mosaic pavement discovered only +a few years since, wonderfully beautiful +indeed, and near ten feet square, though +not quite perfect, being broken in the +night by some malicious people, out of mere +wantonness, soon after it was discovered.</p> + +<p>At this town I was recommended to the +<i>Table Round</i>; but as there are two, the +<i>grande</i> and the <i>petit</i>, I must recommend +you to the <i>petit</i> where I was obliged to +move; for, of all the dreadful women I +ever came near, Madam <i>Rousillion</i> has the +<i>least mellifluous</i> notes; her ill behaviour, +however, procured me the honour of a +very agreeable acquaintance, the <i>Marquis +DeValan</i>, who made me ashamed, by shewing +us an attention we had no right to expect; +but this is one, among many other +agreeable circumstances, which attend +strangers travelling in France. French +gentlemen never see strangers ill treated, +without standing forth in their defence; +and I hope English gentlemen will follow +their example, because it is a piece of justice +due to strangers, in whatever country +they are, or whatever country they are +from; it is doing as one would be done by. +That prejudice which prevails in England, +even among some people of fashion, against +the French nation is illiberal, in the highest +degree; nay, it is more, it is a national +disgrace.—When I recollect with what +ease and uninterruption I have passed +through so many great and little towns, +and extensive provinces, without a symptom +of wanton rudeness being offered me, +I blush to think how a Frenchman, if he +made no better figure than I did, would +have been treated in a tour through Britain.—My +Monkey, with a pair of French +jack boots, and his hair <i>en queue</i>, rode +postillion upon my sturdy horse some hours +every day; such a sight, you may be sure, +brought forth old and young, sick and +lame, to look at him and his master. <i>Jocko</i> +put whole towns in motion, but never +brought any affront on his master; they +came to look and to laugh, but not to deride +or insult. The post-boys, it is true, +did not like to see their fraternity <i>taken +off</i>, in my <i>little Theatre</i>; but they seldom +discovered it, but by a grave salutation; +and sometimes a good humoured fellow +called him comrade, and made <i>Jocko</i> a +bow; they could not laugh at his bad seat, +for not one of them rode with more ease; +or had a handsomer laced jacket. Mr. +<i>Buffon</i> says, the Monkey or <i>Maggot</i>, (and +mine is the latter, for he has no tail) make +their grimace or chattering equally to shew +their anger or to make known their appetite. +With all due deference to this great +naturalist, I must beg leave to say, that his +observation is not quite just; there is as +much difference between the grimace of +my <i>Jocko</i>, when he is angry or hungry, +and when he grins to shew delight, as there +is in a man, when he gnashes his teeth in +wrath, or laughs from mirth.</p> + +<p>Between <i>Avignon</i> and this town I met a +dancing bear, mounted by a <i>Maggot</i>: as it +was upon the high road, I desired leave to +present <i>Jocko</i> to his grandfather, for so +he appeared both in age and size; the interview, +though they were both males, was +very affecting; never did a father receive a +long-lost child with more seeming affection +than the <i>old gentleman</i> did my <i>Jocko</i>; he +embraced him with every degree of tenderness +imaginable, while the <i>young gentleman</i> +(like other young gentlemen of the +present age) betrayed a perfect indifference. +In my conscience I believe it, there was +some consanguinity between them, or the +reception would have proved more mutual. +Between you and me, I fear, were I +to return to England, I might find myself +a sad party in such an interview. It is a sad +reflection; but perhaps Providence may +wisely ordain such things, in order as men +grow older, to wean them from the objects +of their worldly affections, that they +may resign more readily to the decree of +fate. That good man, Dr. <span class="smcap">Arbuthnot</span>, +did not seem to dread the approach of +death on his own account, so much as +from the grievous affliction <span class="smcap">he</span> had reason +to fear it would bring upon his children +and family.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLI" id="LETTER_XLI"></a>LETTER XLI.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons</span>,</p> + +<p class="blockquot" style="text-indent:-2em;"><i>The Harangue of the</i> Emperor <span class="smcap">Claudius</span>, +<i>in the</i> <span class="smcap">Senate</span>. <i>Copied from the original +Bronze plate in the Hotel de Ville, of</i> +Lyons.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">First Table.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Mœrerum . nostr</span> ::::: <span class="smcap"> sii </span> ::::::::: +Equidem · primam · omnium · illam · cogitationem · +hominum · quam · maxime · primam · +occursuram · mihi · provideo · deprecor · ne · +quasi · novam · istam · rem · introduci · exhorrescatis · +sed · illa · potius · cogitetis · quam · multa · +in · hac · civitate · novata · sint · et · quidem · +statim · ab · origine · vrbis · nostræ · in · quod · +formas · statusque · res · P · nostra · diducta · sit.</p> + +<p>Quandam · reges · hanc · tenuere · vrbem · nec +tamen · domesticis · successoribus · eam · tradere · +contigit · supervenere · alieni · et · quidam · +externi · vt · Numa · Romulo · successerit · ex. +Sabinis · veniens · vicinus · quidem · se · tunc.</p> + +<p>Sed · tunc · externus · ut · Anco · Marcio · Priscus · +Tarquinius · propter · temeratum · sanguinem · +quod · Patre · Demaratho · Corinthio · +natus · erat · et · Tarquiniensi · Matre · generoso · +sed · inopi · ut · quæ · tali · marito · necesse · habuerit · +succumbere · cum · domi · repelleretur. A · +gerendis · honoribus · postquam · Roman · migravit · +regnum · adeptus · est · huic · quoque · et · +filio · nepotive · ejus · nam · et · hoc · inter · auctores · +discrepat · insertus · Servius · Tullius · si · +nostros · sequimur · captiva · natus · ocresia · si · +tuscos · cœli · quandam · vivennæ · sodalis · fidelissimus · +omnisque · ejus · casus · comes · post · +quam · varia · fortuna · exactus · cum · omnibus · +reliquis. cæliani · exercitus · Etruria · excepit · +mentem · cælium · occupavit · et · a · duce · suo · +cælio · ita · appellitatus · mutatoque · nomine · +nam · Tusce · mostrana · ei · nomen · erat · ita · appellatus · +est · ut · dixi · et · regnum · summa · cum · +rei · p · utilitate · optinuit · deinde · postquam · +Tarquini · superbi · mores · invisi · civitati · nostræ · +esse · cœperunt · qua · ipsius · qua · filiorum · +ejus · nempe · pertæsum · est · mentes · regni · et · +ad·consules.</p> + +<p>Annuos · magistratus · administratio · rei · p · +translata · est · quid · nunc · commemorem · dictatu · +valentius · repertum · apud · majores · +nostros · quo · in · asperioribus · bellis · aut · in · civili · +motu · difficiliore · uterentur · aut · in · auxilium · +plebis · creatos · tribunos · plebei · quid · a · +latum · imperium · solutoque · postea · Decemvirali · +regno · ad · consules · rursus · reditum · +quid · indecoris · distributum · consulare · imperium · +tribunosque · militum · consulari · imperio · +appellatos · qui · seni · et · sæpe · octoni · +crearentur · quid · communicatos · postremo · +cum · plebe · honores · non · imperi · solum · sed · +sacerdotiorum · quoque · jam · si · narrem · bella +p · quibus · cœperint · majores · nostri · et · quo · +processerimus · vereor · ne · nimio · insolentior · +esse · videar · et · quæsisse · jactationem · gloria · +prolati · imperi · ultra · oceanum · sed · illoc · potius · +revertor · civitatem.</p> + + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Second Table.</span></p> + +<p class="noindent">:::::::::::::::::: SANE +::: NOVO :: DIVVS :: AUG ::: LVS. +et · Patruus · Ti · Cæsar · omnem · florem · ubisque · +coloniarum · ac · municipiorum · bonorum · +scilicet · virorum · et · locupletium · in · hac +curia · esse · voluit · quid · ergo · non · Italicus · senator · +Provinciali · potior · est · jam · vobis · cum · +hanc · partem · censuræ · meæ · ad · probare · cœpero · +quid · de · ea · re · sentiam · rebus · ostendam · +sed · ne · provinciales · quidem · si · modo · +ornare · curiam · poterint · rejiciendos · puto.</p> + +<p>Ornatissimæ · ecce · colonia · volentissimaque +Viennensium · quam · longo · jam · tempore · senatores · +huic · curiæ · confert · ex · qua · colonia · +inter · paucas · equestris · ordinis · ornamentum +L · vestinum · familiarissime · diligo · et · hodieque · +in · rebus · meis · detineo · cujus · liberi · tiorum · +gradu · post · modo · cum · annis · promoturi · +dignitatis · suæ · incrementa · ut · dirum · nomen · +latronis · taceam · et · odi · illud · palæstricum · +prodigium · quod · ante · in · domum · consulatum · +intulit · quam · colonia · sua · solidum +civitatis · Romanæ · beneficium · consecuta · est +idem · de · patre · ejus · possum · dicere · miserabili · +quidem · invtilis · senator · esse · non · possit +tempus · est · jam · ri · <span class="smcap">Cæsar</span> · Germanice · detegere · +te · patribus · conscriptis · quo · tendat · oratio · +tua · jam · enim · ad · extremos · fines · Galliæ · +Narbonensis · venisti.</p> + +<p>Tot · ecce · insignes · juvenes · quot · intuetor · +non · magis · sunt · pœnitendi · senatores · quam · +ænitet · Persicum · nobilissimum · virum · amicum · +meum · inter · imagines · majorum · suorum · +Allobrogici · nomen · legere · quod · <span class="smcap">sl</span> · +hæc · ita · esse · consentitis · quid · ultra · desideratis · +quam · ut · vobis · digito · demonstrem · solum · +ipsum · ultra · fines · provinciæ · Narbonensis · +jam · vobis · senatores · mittere · quando · ex · +Luguduno · habere · nos · nostri · ordinis · viros · +non · pœnitet · timide · quidem · P · C · vobis · provinciarum · +terminos · sum · sed · destricte · jam · +comatæ · Galliæ · causa · argenda · est · in · qua. si. +quis · hoc · intuetur · quod · bello · per · decem · +anno · exercuerunt · divom · Julium · diem · opponat · +centum · armorum · immobilem · fidem · +obsequiumque · multis · trepidis · rebus · nostris · +plusquam · expertum · illi · patri · meo · druso · +Germaniam · subi · genti · tutam · quiete · sua · +securamque · a · tergo · pacem · præstiterunt · et · +quidem · cum · <span class="smcap">ad</span> · census · novo · tum · opere · et +in · adsueto · gallis · ad · bellum · avocatus · esset · +quod · opus · quam · arduum · sit · nobis · nunc · +maxime · quam · vis · nihil · ultra · quam · ut · publice · +notæ · sint · facultates · nostræ · exquiratur · +nimis · magno · experimento · cognoscimus.</p> + +<p>The above harangue, made by <span class="smcap">Claudius</span>, +in favor of the <span class="smcap">Lyonoise</span>, and +which he pronounced in the Senate, is the +only remains of the works of this Emperor, +though he composed many. <i>Suetonius</i> +says he composed forty-three books of a history, +and left eight compleat of his own +life; and adds, that he wrote more elegantly +than judiciously.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLII" id="LETTER_XLII"></a>LETTER XLII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">I have now spent a month in my second +visit to this great and flourishing city, and +fortunately took lodgings in a <i>Hotel</i>, where +I found the lady and sister of <i>Mons. Le +Marquis De Valan</i>, whose politeness to us I +mentioned in a former letter at <i>Vienne</i>, +and by whose favour I have had an opportunity +of seeing more, and being better +informed, than I could have been without +so respectable an acquaintance. At +<i>Vienne</i> I only knew his rank, here I became +acquainted with his good character, +and fortune, which is very considerable in +<i>Dauphine</i>, where he has two or three fine +seats. His Lady came to <i>Lyons</i> to lye-in, +attended by the Marquis's sister, a <i>Chanoinesse</i>, +a most agreeable sensible woman, +of a certain age; but the Countess is +young and beautiful.</p> + +<p>You may imagine that, after what I said +of <i>Lyons</i>, on my way <i>to</i> Spain, I did not +associate much with my own country-folks. +On my return, indeed, my principal amusement +was to see as much as I could, in a +town where so much is to be seen; and in +relating to you what I have seen, I will begin +with the <i>Hotel De Ville</i>; if it had not +that name, I should have called it a Palace, +for there are few palaces so large or so noble; +on the first entrance of which, in the +vestibule, you see, fixed in the wall, a large +plate of Bronze, bearing stronger marks of +fire than of age; on which were engraven, +seventeen hundred years ago, two harangues +made by the Emperor <i>Claudius</i> in +the senate, in favour of the <i>Lyonoise</i>, and +which are not only legible at this day, but +all the letters are sharp and well executed; +the plate indeed is broke quite through +the middle, but fortunately the fraction +runs between the first and second harangues, +so as to have done but little injury among the +the letters. As I do not know whether +you ever saw a copy of it, I inclose it to +you, and desire you will send it as an agreeable +exercise, to be well translated by +my friend at Oxford.</p> + +<p>On the other side of the vestibule is a +noble stair-case, on which is well painted +the destruction of the city, by so dreadful +a fire in the time of the Romans, that <i>Seneca</i>, +who gives an account of it in a letter to +his friend, says,</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"<i>Una nox fuit inter urbem maximam et +nullum.</i>"</p> + +<p>i.e. One night only intervened between +a great city and nothing.</p></div> + +<p>There is something awful in this scene, +to see on one side of the stair-case the conflagration +well executed; on the other, +strong marks of the very fire which burnt +so many ages ago; for there can be no +doubt, but that the Bronze plate then +stood in the <i>Roman Hotel de Ville</i>, and was +burnt down with it, because it was dug up +among the refuse of the old city on the +mountain called <i>Fourvire</i>, on the other +side of the river, where the original city +was built.—In cutting the letters on this +large plate of Bronze, they have, to gain +room, made no distance between the words, +but shewn the division only by a little +touch thus < with the graver; and where +a word eroded with a C, or G, they have +put the touch within the concavity of the +letter, otherwise it is admirably well executed.</p> + +<p>Upon entering into the long gallery above +stairs, you are shewn the late King +and Queen's pictures at full length, surrounded +with the heads of some hundred +citizens; and in one corner of the room +an ancient altar, the <i>Taurabolium</i>, dug up +in 1704, near the same place where <i>Claudius's</i> +harangue was found; it is of common +stone, well executed, about four feet +high, and one foot and a half square; on +the front of it is the bull's head, in demi +relief, adorned with a garland of corn; +on the right side is the <i>victimary</i> knife<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">A</a> of +a very singular form; and on the left the +head of a ram, adorned as the bull's; near +the point of the knife are the following +words, <i>cujus factum est</i>; the top of the altar +is hollowed out into the form of a +shallow bason, in which, I suppose, incense +was burnt and part of the victims.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">A</span></a> The knife, which is cut in demi relief, on the +<i>Taurobolium</i>, is crooked upon the back, exactly in the +same manner, and form, as may be seen on some of +the medals of the Kings of Macedonia.</p></div></div> + +<p>The Latin inscription under the bull's +head, is very well cut, and very legible, +by which it appears, that by the express +order of <span class="smcap">Cybele</span>, the reputed mother of +the Gods, for the honour and health of +the Emperor <i>Antoninus Pius</i>, father of his +country, and for the preservation of his children, +children, <i>Lucius Æmilius Carpus</i><a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">B</a> received +the horns of the bull, by the ministration +of <i>Quintus Samius Secundus</i>, transported +them to the Vatican, and consecrated, at +his own expence, this altar and the head +of the bull<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">C</a>; but I will send the inscription, +and a model<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4" class="fnanchor">D</a> of the altar, as soon as +I can have it made, as I find here a very +ingenious sculptor and modeller; who, to +my great serprize, says no one has hitherto +been taken from it. And here let me +observe, lest I forget it, to say, that <i>Augustus</i> +lived three years in this city.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">B</span></a> <i>Lucius Æmilius Carpus</i> was a Priest, and a man +of great riches: he was of the quality of <i>Sacrovir</i>, +and probably one of the six Priests of the temple of +Angustus.—<i>Sextumvir Augustalii</i>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">C</span></a> Several inscriptions of this kind have been +found both in Italy and Spain, but by far the greater +number among the Gauls; and as the sacrifices +to the Goddess Cybele were some of the least ancient +of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which +were suppressed on the establishment of Christianity. +Since we find one of the Taurobolian +inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of +the Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of +the Heathen writers on this head is very wonderful; +for the only one who makes any mention of them +is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation +on the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, +in his elaborate account of the Taurobolium, has +remarked. +</p><p> +The ceremony of the consecration of the High +Priest of Cybele, which many learned men have +mistaken for the consecration of the Roman Pontifex +Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest +infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed +to that of the Emperor himself. +</p><p> +The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, +wore the same vestments without washing out +the bloody stains, as long as they would hold together. +</p><p> +By these rites and baptisms by blood, they +thought themselves, as it were re-born to a life eternal. +Sextilius Agefilaus Ædesius says, that he was +born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the Taurobolium +and Criobolium. +</p><p> +Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, +but also others, who were not of that order; in +particular cases the regenerations were only promised +for twenty years. +</p><p> +Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which +were erected at the expence of whole cities and provinces, +there were others also, which were founded +by the bounty of private people. We often meet +with the names of magistrates and priests of other +Gods, who were admitted into these mysteries, and +who erected Taurobolia as offerings for the safety of +the Emperor, or their own. The rites of the Taurobolia +lasted sometimes many days. +</p><p> +The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is +on the same side with the head of the bull, we have +endeavoured to explain by filling up the abbreviations +which are met with in the Roman character. +</p> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">taurobolio matris deum magnæ idææ</span></div> +<div class="i3"><span class="smcap">quod factum est ex imperio</span></div> +<div class="i6"><span class="smcap">matris idææ deum</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">pro salute imperatoris cæsaris</span></div> +<div class="i7"><span class="smcap">titi ælii</span></div> +<div class="i0"><span class="smcap">adriani antonini augusti pii patris patriæ</span></div> +<div class="i5"><span class="smcap">liberorumque ejus</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">et status coloniæ lugdunensis</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">lucius æmilius carpus sextumvir</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">augustalis item dendrophorus</span></div> +<div class="i3"><span class="smcap">vires excepit et a vaticano</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">transtulit aram et bucranium</span></div> +<div class="i4"><span class="smcap">suo impendio consecravit</span></div> +<div class="i7"><span class="smcap">sacerdote</span></div> +<div class="i0"><span class="smcap">quinto sammio secundo ab quindecemviris</span></div> +<div class="i3"><span class="smcap">occabo et corona exornato</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">cui sanctissimus ordo lugdunensis</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">perpetuitatem sacerdotis decrevit</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">appio annia atilo bradua tito</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">clodio vibio varo consulibus</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">locus datus dicreto decurionum.</span></div> +</div></div></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4"><span class="label">D</span></a> <i>The Model is now in the possession of the ingenious</i> +Dr. <span class="smcap">Harrington</span> <i>at Bath</i>.</p></div> +</div> + +<p>The <i>Taurobolium</i> was one of the great +mysteries, you know, of the Roman religion, +in the observance of which, I think, +they dug a large hole in the earth, and +covered it with planks, laid at certain distances, +so as to give light into the subterranean +temple. The person who was to +receive the <i>Taurobolio</i> then descended into +the theatre, and received on his head and +whole body, the smoaking hot blood of +the bull, which was there sacrificed for that +purpose. If a single bull was only sacrificed, +I think they call it a simple <i>Taurabolio</i>, +if a ram was added to it, as was +sometimes done, it was then called a <i>Torobolia</i>, +and <i>Criobolio</i>; sometimes too, I believe +a goat was also slain.</p> + +<p>After all the blood of the victim animals +was discharged, the Priests and Cybils +retired beneath the theatre, and he +who had received the bloody sacrifice, +came forth and exposed himself, besmeared +with blood, to the people, who all prostrated +themselves before him, with reverential +awe, as one who was thereby particularly +sanctified, and whose person ought +to be regarded with the highest veneration, +and looked upon with holy horror; nor did +this sanctification, I think, end with the +ceremony, but rendered the person of the +sanctified holy for twenty years. An inscription +cited by <i>Gruter</i>, seems to confirm +this matter, who, after speaking of +one <i>Nepius Egnatius Faventinus</i>, who lived +in the year of Christ 176, says,</p> + +<p><i>"Percepto Taurobolio Criobolioque feliciter,</i>"</p> + +<p>Concludes with these words,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0"><i>"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis,</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes.</i>"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The <i>bis denus orbis</i> seems to imply, the +space of twice ten years.</p> + +<p>And here I cannot help making a little +comparison between the honours paid by +the Roman citizens to their Emperors, +and those of the present times to the Princes +of the Blood Royal. You must know +that the present King's brother, came to +<i>Lyons</i> in the year 1775, and thus it is recorded +in letters of gold upon their quay:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i4">LOUIS XVI. REGNANT.</div> +<div class="i0">EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ.</div> +<div class="i3">SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV.</div> +<div class="i9">OU</div> +<div class="i3">MONSIEUR FRERE DU ROI</div> +<div class="i6">ET MADAME</div> +<div class="i1">SONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLE</div> +<div class="i7">CE QUAI</div> +<div class="i2">DE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCE</div> +<div class="i0">ET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULAT</div> +<div class="i3">DU DOUZE DU MEME MOIS</div> +<div class="i2">A ETE NOMME A PERPETUITE</div> +<div class="i6">QUAI MONSIEUR.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>If the <i>Bourgeoise</i> of <i>Lyons</i>, however, are +not men of genius, they are ingenious +men, and they have a most delightful +country to dwell in. I think I may say, +that from the high hills which hang about +this city, and taking in the rivers, fertile +vales, rude rocks, vine-yards, and country +seats, far and near, that <i>Lyons</i> and its environs, +afford a greater variety of natural +and artificial beauties, than any spot in +Europe. It is, however, by no means a +place for the winter residence of a stranger. +Most of the natives advanced in years, were +carried off last winter. The surly winds +which come down the Rhone, with impetuous +blasts, are very disagreeable and +dangerous. I found the cold intolerable +in the beginning of May, out of the sunshine, +and the sun intolerable in it. In +England I never wore but one under waistcoat; +in Spain, and in the south of France, +I found two necessary. The Spaniards +wear long cloaks, and we laugh at them; +but the laugh would come more properly +from them. There is in those climates a +<i>vifness</i> in the air that penetrates through +and through; and I am sure that such who +travel to the southward for the recovery +of their health, ought to be ten times more +upon their guard, to be well secured against +the keen blasts the south of France, than +even against an easterly wind in England.</p> + +<p>The disorder which carried off so many +last winter at <i>Lyons</i>, was called the Gripe. +In a large hotel only one person escaped +it, an English Lady. They called it the +<i>Gripe</i>, from the fast hold it took of the +person it seized; nor did it let them go till +April.</p> + +<p>On my way here, I found it sometimes +extremely hot; it is now the first of May, +and I am shaking by the side of a good +fire, and have had one constantly every +day for this fortnight.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLIII" id="LETTER_XLIII"></a>LETTER XLIII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">The <i>Lyonoise</i> think their town was +particularly honoured by the <i>Taurobolium</i>; +but it was a common practice to offer that +sacrifice not only for the Emperor's health, +but for the preservation of a city. There +are two of these altars in the town of <i>Letoure</i>; +one consecrated for the preservation +of the Emperor <i>Gordian</i>, on which is the +following inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i3">PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL.</div> +<div class="i1">AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINÆ PROQVE STATV CIVIT.</div> +<div class="i0">LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANO</div> +<div class="i4">II ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS M</div> +<div class="i6">EROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>And in a little village near <i>Marseilles</i>, +called <i>Pennes</i>, there is a stone, on which +is engraven,</p> + +<p> +MATRI DEVM MAGNÆ IDEÆ +</p> + +<p>And on another, in the same town,</p> + +<p> +MATRI DEVM TAVROPOLIVM. +</p> + +<p>I must not omit to give you a copy of a +singular inscription on the tomb of a mint-master +which was found in <i>Lyons</i>, and is +preserved entire:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">NOBILIS TIB. CÆSARIUS AVG. SER ÆQ. MONET HIC</div> +<div class="i2">AD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ET</div> +<div class="i6">PERPETUA FILIA D.S.D.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The most ancient money which has been +found in and about this city, is the little +coin of <i>Mark Antony</i>; on one side of +which is represented the Triumvirate; on +the other, a Lion, with the word <i>Lugudani</i> +under it; on each side of the Lion are +the letters A and XL. The antiquarians +here think those letters marked the value +of the piece, and that it was about forty +<i>sous</i>; but is it not more probable, that this +was only the mint-master's touch?</p> + +<p>Nothing can be a stronger proof of the +importance of this city in the time of the +Romans, than the immense expence +they were at in erecting such a number of +grand aquæducts, one of which was eighteen +leagues in length; many parts of +them are still visible; and it appears that +they spent for the reparation of them at +<i>one</i> time, near one thousand talents; +and here it was that the four grand Roman +highways divided; one of which +went directly to the sea, and another to +the <i>Pyrenees</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Agrippa</i>, who was the constructor of +most of these noble monuments of Roman +grandeur, would not permit the <i>Lyonoise</i> to +erect any monument among them to his +memory; and yet, his memory is, in a very +particular manner, preserved to this day in +the very heart of the city, for in the front +of a house on the quay <i>de Villeroy</i>, is a medallion +of baked earth, which, I think, +perfectly resembles him; sure I am it is an +unquestionable antique; it is a little disfigured +indeed, and disgraced by his name +being written upon it in modern characters. +But there is another monument of +<i>Agrippa</i> here; it is part of the epitaph of +an officer or soldier of the third cohort, +whose duty it was to take an account of +the expence of each day for the subsistence +of the troops employed to work on +the high-ways, and this officer was called +<i>A. Rationibus Agrippæ</i>.</p> + +<p>There are an infinite number of Roman +inscriptions preserved at <i>Lyons</i>, among +which is the following singular one:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAM</div> +<div class="i2">TVAM RAPVERVNT.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>I have already told you of a modern +monument erected by the <i>Lyonoise</i>, and +now, with grief and concern, I must tell +you of an ancient one which they have +demolished! it was a most beautiful structure, +called the tomb of the Two Lovers; +that, however, was a mistake; it was the +tomb of a brother and sister named <i>Amandas</i>, +or <i>Amans</i>, for near where it stood was +lately found the following monumental +inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i8">D M</div> +<div class="i0">ET MEMORIAE ÆTERNÆ OLIÆ TRIBVTÆ</div> +<div class="i2">FEMINÆ SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVS</div> +<div class="i1">AMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMÆ</div> +<div class="i3">SIBIQVE AMANTISSIMÆ P.C. ET</div> +<div class="i5">SVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>I have seen a beautiful drawing of this +fine monument, which stood near the high +road, a little without the town; the barbarian +<i>Bourgeoises</i> threw it down about seventy +years ago, to search for treasure.</p> + +<p>But enough of antiquities; and therefore +I will tell you truly my sentiments +with respect to the south of France, which +is, that <i>Lyons</i> is quite southward enough +for an Englishman, who will, if he goes +farther, have many wants which cannot be +supplied. After quitting <i>Lyons</i>, he will +find neither good butter, milk, or cream. +At <i>Lyons</i>, every thing, which man can +wish for, is in perfection; it is indeed a +rich, noble, and plentiful town, abounding +with every thing that is good, and +more <i>finery</i> than even in <i>Paris</i> itself. They +have a good theatre, and some tolerable +actors; among whom is the handsomest +Frenchman I ever beheld, and, a little +stiffness excepted, a good actor.</p> + +<p>Any young gentleman traveller, particularly +<i>of the English nation</i>, who is desirous +of <i>replenishing his purse</i>, cannot, even +in <i>Paris</i>, find more convenient occasions +to throw himself in <i>fortune's way</i>, than at +the city of <i>Lyons</i>.</p> + +<p>An English Lady, and two or three gentlemen, +have lately been so <i>fortunate there</i>, +as to find lodgings <i>at a great Hotel</i>, gratis; +and I desire you will particularly <i>recommend +a long stay at</i> Lyons <i>to my Oxonian +friend</i>; where he may <i>see the world</i> without +looking out at a window.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLIV" id="LETTER_XLIV"></a>LETTER XLIV.</h2> + + +<p>I find I omitted to give you before I +left <i>Nismes</i>, some account of Monsieur <i>Seguier</i>'s +cabinet, a gentleman whose name +I have before mentioned, and whose conversation +and company were so very agreeable +to me. Among an infinite number +of natural and artificial curiosities, are +many ancient Roman inscriptions, one of +which is that of <i>T. Julius Festus</i>, which +<i>Spon</i> mentions in his <i>Melanges D'Antiquite</i>. +There are also a great number of Roman +utensils of bronze, glass, and earthen-ware. +The Romans were well acquainted with +the dangerous consequences of using copper +vessels<a name="FNanchor_E_5" id="FNanchor_E_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_E_5" class="fnanchor">E</a> in their kitchens, as may be +seen in this collection, where there are a +great many for that purpose; but all strongly +gilt, not only within, but without, to +prevent a possibility of <i>verdigris</i> arising. +There is also a bronze head of a Colossal +statue, found not many years since near +the fountain of <i>Nismes</i>, which merits particular +attention, as well as a great number +of Roman and Greek medals and medallions, +well preserved, and some which +are very rare. The natural curiosities are +chiefly composed of fossils and petrifications; +among the latter, are an infinite +number of petrified fish <i>embalmed</i> in solid +stones; and where one sees the finest membranes +of the fins, and every part of the +fish, delineated by the pencil of nature, in +the most exquisite manner; the greater +part of these petrifications were collected +by the hands of the possessor, some from +<i>Mount Bola</i>, others from <i>Mount Liban</i>, +<i>Switzerland</i>, <i>&c.</i></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_E_5" id="Footnote_E_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_E_5"><span class="label">E</span></a> See Dr. <span class="smcap">Falconer</span>, of <i>Bath</i>, his Treatise on +this subject.</p></div></div> + +<p>Mr. <i>Seguier</i>'s <i>Herbary</i> consists of more +than ten thousand plants; but above all, +Mr. <i>Seguier</i> himself, is the first, and most +valuable part of his cabinet, having spent +a long life in rational amusements; and +though turned of four-score, he has all the +chearfulness of youth, without any of the +garrulity of old age. When he honoured +me with a visit, at my country lodgings, +he came on foot, and as the waters were +out, I asked him how he <i>got at me</i>, so dry +footed? He had walked upon the wall, he +said; a wall not above nine inches thick, +and of a considerable length!</p> + +<p>And here let me observe that a Frenchman +eats his <i>soup</i> and <i>bouille</i> at twelve +o'clock, drinks only <i>with</i>, not <i>after</i> his +dinner, and then mixes water with his <i>genuine</i> +wine; he lives in a fine climate, +where there is not as with us, for six weeks +together, easterly winds, which stop the +pores, and obstruct perspiration. A +Frenchman eats a great deal, it is true, but +it is not all <i>hard meat</i>, and they never sit +and drink after dinner or supper is over.—An +Englishman, on the contrary, drinks +much stronger, and a variety of fermented +liquors, and often much worse, and sits +<i>at it</i> many hours after dinner, and always +after supper. How then can he expect +such health, such spirits, and to enjoy a +long life, free from pain, as most Frenchmen +do; When the negro servants in the +West-Indies find their masters call <i>after</i> +dinner for a bowl of punch extraordinary +they whisper them, (if company are present) +and ask, "<i>whether they drink for +drunk</i>, or <i>drink for dry</i>?" A Frenchman +never drinks for <i>drunk</i>.—While the Englishman +is earning disease and misery at +his bottle, the Frenchman is embroidering +a gown, or knitting a handkerchief +for his mistress. I have seen a Lady's +sacque finely <i>tamboured</i> by a Captain of +horse, and a Lady's white bosom shewn +through mashes netted by the man who +made the snare, in which he was himself +entangled; though he made it he did not +perhaps know the powers of it till she <i>set +it</i>.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLV" id="LETTER_XLV"></a>LETTER XLV.</h2> + + +<p>I write to you just as things come into +my head, having taken very few notes, +and those, as you must perceive, often +without much regard to <i>unison</i> or <i>time</i>. It +has this minute occurred to me, that I omitted +to tell you on my journey onwards, +that I visited a little town in <i>Picardie</i>, +called <i>Ham</i>, where there is so strong a +castle, that it may be called a <i>petit Bastile</i>, +and which was then and still is, full of +state prisoners and debtors. To this castle +there is a monstrous tower, the walls +of which are thirty six feet thick, and the +height and circumference are proportionable +thereto; it was built by the <i>Conetable +de St. Paul</i>, in order to shut up his master, +<i>Charles</i> the VIth, King of France, and contemporary, +I think, with our <i>Henry</i> the +Vth; but such are the extraordinary turns +of all human affairs, that <i>Mons. le Conetable</i> +was shut up in it himself many years, and +ended his days there.—The fate of this +constable brings to my mind a circumstance +that happened under my <i>administration</i>, +at <i>Land-Guard Fort</i>, when the King +was pleased to trust me with the command +of it. I had not been twenty-four hours +in possession of what I thought a small +sovereignty, before I received a letter in +the following terms:</p> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">Sir</span>, Having observed horses grazing +on the covered way, that <i>hath</i> done apparent +damage, and may do more, I +think it my duty to inform you, that his +Majesty does not permit horses to feed +thereon, &c. &c. (Signed)</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">"Anthony Goode</span>,<br /> +Overseer of the Works." +</p> + +<p>I never was more surprized, than to find +my wings were to be thus clipt, by a civil +officer of the board of ordnance; however +wrong I or my horses had acted, I could +not let Mr. <span class="smcap">Goode</span> <i>graze</i> so closely upon +my authority, without a reprimand; I +therefore wrote him an answer in terms as +follow: "that having seen a fat impudent-looking +strutting fellow about the garrison, +it was my order that when his duty +led him to communicate any thing to +me relative to the works thereof, that +he came himself, instead of writing impertinent +letters." Mr. <i>Goode</i> sent a copy +of his letter and mine to Sir <i>Charles +Frederick</i>; and the post following, he received +from the Office of Ordnance, several +printed papers in the King's name, forbidding +horses grazing on the <span class="smcap">works</span>, and +<i>ordering Mr. Goode</i> to nail those orders up +in different parts of the garrison! but as I +had not then learnt that either he, or his +<i>red ribband master</i>, had any authority to +give out, even the King's orders, in a garrison +I commanded, but through my hands, +I took the liberty, while Mr. <i>Goode</i> and +his assistant-son were nailing one up <i>opposite +to my parlour window</i>, to send for a file +of men and put them both into the Black-hold, +an apartment Mr. <i>Goode</i> had himself +built, being a Master-Mason. By the time +he had been ten minutes <i>grazing</i> under +this <i>covered way</i>, he sent me a message, +that he was <i>asthmatic</i>, that the place was +too close, and that if he died within a <i>year +and a day</i>, I must be deemed accessary to +his death. But as I thought Mr. <i>Goode</i> +should have considered, that some of the +poor invalids too might now and then be +as subject to the asthma as he, it was a +proper punishment, and I kept him there +till he knew the duty of a soldier, as well +as that of a mason; and as I would <i>his +betters</i>, had they come down and ventured +to have given out orders in a garrison under +my command; but instead of getting +me punished as a <i>certain gentleman</i> aimed +at, that able General <i>Lord Ligonier</i> approved +my conduct, and removed the +man to another garrison, and would have +dismissed him the ordnance service, had I +not become a petitioner in his favour; for +he was too fat and old to work, too proud +and arrogant to beg, and he and <i>his advisers</i> +too contemptible to be angry with.—But +I must return to the castle of <i>Ham</i>, +to tell you what a dreadful black-hold there +is in that tower; it is a trap called by the +French <i>des Obliettes</i>, of so horrible a contrivance, +that when the prisoners are to +suffer in it, the mechanical powers are so +constructed, as to render it impossible to be +again opened, nor would it signify, but to +see the body <i>molue</i>, i.e. ground to pieces.</p> + +<p>There were formerly two or three <i>Obliettes</i> +in this castle; one only now remains; +but there are still several in the <i>Bastile</i>.—When +a criminal suffers this frightful +death, (for perhaps it is not very painful) +he has no previous notice, but being led +into the apartment, is overwhelmed in an +instant. It is to be presumed, however, +that none but criminals guilty of high +crimes, suffer in this manner; for the state +prisoners in the <i>Bastile</i> are not only well +lodged, but liberal tables are kept for them.</p> + +<p>An Irish officer was lately enlarged from +the <i>Bastile</i>, who had been twenty-seven +years confined there; and though he found +a great sum of money in the place he had +concealed it in a little before his confinement, +he told Colonel C——, of Fitz-James's +regiment, that "having out-lived +his acquaintance with the world, as well +as with men, he would willingly return +there again."</p> + +<p>At <i>Ham</i> the prisoners for debt are quite +separated from the state prisoners; the +latter are in the castle, the former in the +tower.</p> + +<p>The death of <i>Lewis</i> the XVth gave liberty +to an infinite number of unhappy +people, and to many who would have been +enlarged before, but had been forgotten. +When one of these unhappy people (a woman +of fashion) was told she might go +out; then, (said she) I am sure <i>Lewis</i> the +XVth is dead; an event she knew nothing +of, tho' it was a full year after the King's +death.—Things are otherwise conducted +now than in his reign; a wicked vain woman +then commanded with unlimited +power, both in war and domestic concerns. +In this reign, there are able, and +I believe virtuous ministers.</p> + +<p>I suppose you think as I did, that Madame +<i>Pompadour</i> governed by her own +powerful charms; but that was not the +case; she governed as many other women +do, by borrowed charms; she had a correspondence +all over the kingdom, and +offices of intelligence, where <i>youth</i>, <i>beauty</i>, +and <i>innocence</i>, were registered, which were +sent to her according to order; upon the +arrival of the <i>goods</i>, they were dressed, and +trained for <i>use</i>, under her inspection, till +they were fit to be <i>shewn up</i>. She had no +regard to birth, for a shoe-maker's daughter +of great beauty, belonging to one of +the Irish brigades, being introduced to +the King, he asked her whether she knew +him? No: she did not: But did you ever +see me before, or any body like me? She +had not, but thought him very like the +face on the <i>gros Eccuis</i> of France. Madame +<i>Pompadour</i> soon found out which of +these girls proved most agreeable to the +King, and such were retained, the others +dismissed.—The expence of this traffick +was immense. I am assured where difficulties +of birth or fashion fell in the way, ten +thousand pounds sterling have been given. +Had <i>Lewis</i> the XVth lived a few years +longer, he would have ruined his kingdom. +<i>Lewis</i> the XVIth bids fair to aggrandize +it.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLVI" id="LETTER_XLVI"></a>LETTER XLVI.</h2> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Post-house, St George</span>, six leagues from +<span class="smcap">Lyons</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">I am particular in dating this letter, in +hopes that every English traveller may avoid +the place I write from, by either +stopping short, or going beyond it, as it is +the only house of reception for travellers +in the village, and the worst I have met +with in my whole journey. We had been +scurvily treated here as we went; but having +arrived at it after dark, and leaving +it early, I did not recollect it again, till +the mistress by her sour face and sorry +fare betrayed it; for she well remembered +<i>us</i>. As a specimen of French auberge +cookery, I cannot help serving up a dish +of spinnage to you as it was served to me +at this house. We came in early in the afternoon, +and while I was in the court-yard, +I saw a flat basket stand upon the ground, +the bottom of which was covered with +boiled spinnage; and as my dog, and several +others in the yard, had often put +their noses into it, I concluded it was put +down for <i>their</i> food, not <i>mine</i>, till I saw a +dirty girl patting it up into round balls, and +two children, the eldest of them not above +three years old, slavering in and playing +with it, one of whom, <i>to lose no time</i>, was +performing <i>an office</i> that none could <i>do for +her</i>. I asked the maid what she was about, +and what it was she was so preparing? for +I began to think I had been mistaken, till +she told me it was spinnage;—not for me, +I hope, said I,—'<i>oui, pour vous et le monde</i>.' +I then forbad her bringing any to my table, +and putting the little girl <i>off her center</i>, +by an angry push, made her almost as dirty +as the spinnage; and I could perceive +her mother, the hostess, and some French +travellers who were near, looked upon me +as a brute, for <i>disturbing la pauvre enfant</i>; +nevertheless, with my <i>entree</i> came up a +dish of this <i>delicate spinnage</i>, with which I +made the girl a very pretty <i>Chapeau Anglois</i>, +for I turned it, dish and all, upon her head; +this set the house in such an uproar, that, +if there had not come in an old gentleman +like <i>Bourgeois</i> of <i>Paris</i>, at that instant, +I verily believe I should have been turned +out; but he engaged warmly in my defence, +and insisted upon it that I had treated +the girl just as he would have done, had +she brought such a dirty dish to him after +being cautioned not to do so; nor should +I have got any supper, had I not prevailed +on this good-natured man, who never eat +any, to order a supper for himself, and transfer +it to me. He was a native of <i>Lyons</i>, and +had been, for the first time after thirty years +absence, to visit his relations there. My entertainment +at this house, <i>outward-bound</i>, +was half a second-hand roasted turkey, or, +what the sailors call a <i>twice-laid</i> dish, i.e. +one which is <i>done over</i> a second time.</p> + +<p>I know the French in general will not +like to see this dirty charge, brought even +against an <i>aubergiste</i>, and much less to +hear it said, that this disregard to cleanliness +is almost general in the public inns; +but truth justifies it, and I hope the publication +may amend it.</p> + +<p>A modern French anonymous traveller, +who I conclude by the company he kept +in England, is a man of fashion, gives in +general a just account of the English nation, +their customs and manners; and acknowledges, +in handsome terms, the manner +he was received by some of the first +families in England. He owns, however, +he does not understand English, yet he +has the temerity to say, that <i>Gulliver's</i> travels +are the <i>chef d'œuvre</i> of <i>Dean Swift</i>; +but observes, that those travels are greatly +improved by passing through the hands of +<i>Desfontaines</i>.—This gentleman must excuse +me in saying, that <i>Desfontaines</i> neither +understood English, nor <i>Dean Swift</i>, +better than he does. He also concludes +his first volume, by observing, that what a +French Ambassador to England said of +that nation, in the year 1523, constitutes +their character at this day! 'Alas! poor +England! thou <i>be'st</i> so closely situated, and +in such daily conversation with the polite +and polished nation of France, thou hast +gained nothing of their ease, breeding, +and compliments, in the space of two hundred +and fifty years!'—What this gentleman +alludes to, is the Ambassador's letter +to the <i>Conetable Montmorency</i>, previous +to the meeting of <i>Henry</i> the Eighth and +<i>Francis</i> the First, near <i>Ardres</i>; for, (says +the Ambassador) <i>sur-tout je vous prie, que +vous ostiez de la Cour, ceux qui unt la reputation +d'etre joyeux & gaudisseur, car c'est +bien en ce monde, la chose la plus haie de cette +nation</i>. And in a few lines after, he foists +in an extract from a Scotchman, one <i>Barclay</i>, +who, in his <i>Examen of Nations</i>, says, +<i>Jenenc connoit point de plus aimable creature, +qui un François chez qui l'enjoument est +tempore par le judgment, & par discretion</i>; +to all which I subscribe: but such men are +seldom to be met with in any kingdom.</p> + +<p>This gentleman says, the most remarkable, +or rather the only act of gaiety he +met with in <i>London</i>, was an harangue +made for an hour in the House of Lords, +previous to the trial of Lord <i>Byron</i>; and +that, as he afterwards understood, it was +made by a drunken member of parliament. +He says it made him and every body laugh +exceedingly; but he laughed only (I presume) +because every body else did, and +relates the story, I fear, merely to make +it a national laugh; for the harangue was +certainly very ill placed, and the mirth it +produced, very indecent, at a time a Peer +of the realm was to be brought forth, accused +of murder; and the untimely death +of a valuable and virtuous young man, +revived in every body's memory.</p> + +<p>This is the unfavourable side of what +the gentleman says of the first people in +England. Of the peasants and lower order, +he observes, that, though they are +well fed, well cloathed, and well lodged, +yet they are all of a melancholy turn.—The +French have no idea of what we call +<i>dry humour</i>; and this gentleman, perhaps, +thought the English clown melancholy, +while he was laughing in his sleeve at the +foppery of his <i>laquais</i>.</p> + +<p>These observations put me in mind of +another modern traveller, a man of sense +and letters too, who observes, that the ballustrades +at <i>Westminster</i> bridge are fixed +very close together, to prevent the English +getting through to drown themselves: and +of a Gentleman at <i>Cambridge</i>, who, having +cut a large pigeon-hole under his closet +door, on being asked the use of it, said, he +had it cut for an old cat which had kittens, +to go in and out; but added, <i>that he +must send for the carpenter, to cut little holes +for the young ones</i>. His <i>acute visitor</i> instantly +set up a <i>horse</i> laugh, and asked +him whether the little cats could not come +out at the same hole the big one did? The +other laughing in his turn, said, he did not +<i>think of that</i>.</p> + +<p>Though I have spoken with freedom of +this French traveller's remarks, yet I must +own that, in general, he writes and thinks +liberally, and speaks highly of the English +nation, and very gratefully of many individuals +to whom he was known; and, I +dare say, a Frenchman will find many more +mistakes of mine, which I shall be happy +to see pointed out, or rectified: but were I +to pick out the particular objects of laughter, +pity, and contempt, which have fallen +in my way, in twice crossing this great +continent, I could make a second <i>Joe +Miller</i> of one, and a <i>Jane Shore</i> of the other. +If this traveller could have understood +the <i>Beggars' Opera</i>, the <i>humour</i> of +<i>Sam. Foote</i>, or the pleasantry among English +sailors, watermen, and the lower order +of the people, he would have known, +that, though the English nation have not +so much vivacity as the French, they are +behind-hand with no nation whatever, +where true wit and genuine humour are +to be displayed. What would he have +said, could he have seen and entered into +the spirit of the procession of the <i>miserable +Scalds</i>, or Mr. <i>Garrick</i> in <i>Scrub</i>; <i>Shuter</i>, +<i>Woodward</i>, Mrs. <i>Clive</i>, or even our little +<i>Edwin</i> at <i>Bath</i>? Had he seen any of these +things, he must have laughed with the +multitude, as he did in the House of Lords, +though he had not understood it, and +must have seen how inimitably the talents +of these men were formed, to excite so +much mirth and delight, even to a heavy +<i>unpolished</i> English audience.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLVII" id="LETTER_XLVII"></a>LETTER XLVII.</h2> + + +<p>From <i>St. George</i> to <i>Macon</i> is five +leagues. Nothing on earth can be more +beautiful than the face of this country, +far and near. The road lies over a vast and +fertile plain, not far distant from the banks +of the <i>Soane</i> on one side, and adorned +with mountains equally fertile, and beautiful, +on the other. It is very singular, +that all the cows of this part of the country +are white, or of a light dun colour, +and the dress of all the <i>Maconoise</i> peasants +as different from any other province in +France, as that of the Turkish habit; I +mean the women's dress, for I perceived +no difference among the men, but that +they are greater clowns, than any other +French peasants. The women wear a +broad bone lace ruff about their necks, +and a narrow edging of the same sort +round their caps, which are in the form +of the charity girls' caps in England; but +as they must not bind them on with any +kind of ribband, they look rather <i>laid upon</i> +their heads, than <i>dressed upon them</i>; their +gowns are of a very coarse light brown +woollen cloth, made extremely short-waisted, +and full of high and thick plaits +over the hips, the sleeves are rather large, +and turned up with some gaudy coloured +silk; upon the shoulders are sewed several +pieces of worsted livery lace, which seem +to go quite under their arms, in the same +manner as is sometimes put to children to +strengthen their leading-strings; upon the +whole, however, the dress is becoming, +and the very long petticoat and full plaits, +have a graceful appearance.</p> + +<p>At <i>Lyons</i> I saw a <i>Macinoise</i> girl of fashion, +or fortune, in this dress; her lace was fine, +her gown silk, and her shoulder-straps of +silver; and, as her head had much more +of the <i>bon gout</i> than the <i>bon ton</i>, I thought +her the most inviting object I had seen in +that city, my delicate landlady at <i>Nismes</i> +always excepted. I think France cannot +produce such another woman <i>for beauty</i> as +<i>Madame Seigny</i>.</p> + +<p>I bought a large quantity of the <i>Macon</i> +lace, at about eight-pence English a yard, +which, at a little distance, cannot easily be +distinguished from fine old <i>pointe</i>.</p> + +<p>Between <i>St. George</i> and <i>Macon</i>, at a time +we wanted our breakfast, we came to a spot +where two high roads cross each other, +and found there a little <i>cabbin</i>, not unlike +the Iron House, as to whim, but this was +built, sides, top, and bottom, with sawed +boards; and as a little bit of a board hung +out at the door informed us they sold wine, +I went in, and asked the mistress permission +to boil my tea-kettle, and to be permitted +to eat our breakfast in her pretty <i>cabbin</i>? +The woman was knitting; she laid down +her work, rose up, and with the ease and +address of a woman of the first fashion, +said we did her honour, that her house, +such as it was, and every thing in it, were +at our service; she then sent a girl to a farmer's +hard by, for milk, and to a village a +quarter of a league distant, for hot bread; +and while we breakfasted, her conversation +and good breeding made up a principal +part of the <i>repas</i>; she had my horse too +brought to the back part of her <i>cabbin</i>, +where he was well fed from a portable +manger. I bought of her two bottles of +white wine, not much inferior to, and +much wholesomer than, Champaigne, and +she charged me for the whole, milk, bread, +fire, <i>conversation</i>, and wine, thirty six <i>sols</i>, +about seventeen pence English! Though +this gentlewoman, for so I must call her, +and so I believe she is, lived in such a small +hut, she seemed to be in good circumstances, +and had <i>liqueurs</i>, tea, and a great variety +of <i>bons choses</i> to sell. This was the +only public house, (if it maybe called by +that name,) during my whole journey <i>out</i> +and <i>in</i>, where I found perfect civility; not +that the publicans in general have not civility +<i>in their possession</i>, but they will not, +either from <i>pride</i> or <i>design</i>, <i>produce it</i>, particularly +to strangers. My <i>wooden-house +landlady</i> indeed, was a prodigy; and it +must be confessed, that no woman of the +lower order in England, nor even of the +middling class, have any share of that ease +and urbanity which is so common among +the lower order of the <i>people</i> of this kingdom: +but the woman I now speak of, had +not, you will perceive, the least design even +upon my purse; I made no previous agreement +with her for my good fare, and +she scorned to take any advantage of my +confidence; and I shewed my sense of it, +by giving her little maid eight times more +than she ever received for such services +before—an English shilling.</p> + +<p>Let not this single, and singular woman, +however, induce you to trust to the confidence +of a French <i>aubergiste</i> especially a +<i>female</i>; you may as well trust to the conscience +of an itinerant Jew. Frenchmen +are so aware of this, that have heard a +traveller, on a <i>maigre</i> day, make his bargain +for his <i>aumlet</i> and the number of +eggs to be put in it, with an exactness +scarce to be imagined; and yet the upshot +was only two pence English.</p> + +<p>The easy manner in which a French officer, +or gentleman, can traverse this mighty +kingdom, either for pleasure or business, is +extremely agreeable, and worthy of imitation +among young British officers.—In +England, if an Ensign of foot is going a +journey, he must have two horses, and a +groom, though he has nothing but a regimental +suit of cloaths, and half a dozen +shirts to carry; his horses too must <i>set both +ends well</i> because he is a <i>Captain</i> upon the +road! and he travels at about five times +the expence of his pay.</p> + +<p>The French officer buys a little <i>biddet</i>, +puts his shirts and best regimental coat +into a little <i>portmanteau</i>, buckles that behind +his saddle, and with his sword by his +side, and his <i>croix</i> at his button-hole, travels +at the expence of about three shillings +a day, and often less, through a kingdom +where every order of people shew +him attention, and give him precedence.</p> + +<p>I blush, when I recollect that I have <i>rode</i> +the risque of being wet to the skin because +I would not <i>disgrace my saddle</i>, nor load +my back with a great coat; for I have +<i>formerly</i>, as well as <i>latterly</i>, travelled without +a servant.</p> + +<p>I have a letter now before me, which I +received a few days ago from a French +Captain of foot, who says, <i>sur le champ j'ay +fait seller ma petite Rossinante (car vous +scavez que j'ay achete un petit cheval de 90 +livres selle et bride) et me voila a Epernay +chez Monsieur Lechet</i>, &c. This gentleman's +whole pay does not amount to more +than sixty pounds a year, yet he has always +five guineas in his pocket, and every +convenience, and some luxuries about him; +he assists now and then an extravagant +brother, appears always well dressed; and +last year I bought him a ticket in the British +lottery: he did not consider that he +employed an unfortunate man to buy it, +and I <i>forgot</i> to remind him of it.</p> + +<p>After saying thus much of a virtuous +young man (<i>though a Frenchman</i>) there +will be no harm in telling you his name is +<i>Lalieu</i>, a Captain in the regiment <i>du Maine</i>.—Before +I took my last leave of him, talking +together of the horrors of war, I asked +him what he would do if he were to see +me <i>vis-a-vis</i> in an hostile manner? He +embraced me, and said, "turn the but +end of my fusee towards you, my friend." +I thank God that neither his <i>but-end</i>, nor +my <i>muzzle</i> can ever meet in that manner, +and I shall be happy to meet him in any +other.</p> + +<p><i>P.S.</i> I omitted to say, that the <i>Maconoise</i> +female peasants wear black hats, in +the form of the English straw or chip hats; +and when they are tied on, under the chin, +it gives them with the addition of their +round-eared laced cap, a decent, modest +appearance which puts out of countenance +all the borrowed plumage, dead hair, +black wool, lead, grease, and yellow powder, +which is now in motion between <i>Edinburgh</i> +and <i>Paris</i>.</p> + +<p>It is a pity that pretty women, at least, +do not know, that the simplicity of a Quaker's +head-dress, is superior to all that art +can contrive: and those who remember +the elegant <i>Miss Fide</i>, a woman of that +persuasion, will subscribe to the truth of +my assertion. And it is still a greater pity, +that plain women do not know, that the +more they adorn and <i>artify</i> their heads, +the more conspicuous they make their natural +defects.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLVIII" id="LETTER_XLVIII"></a>LETTER XLVIII.</h2> + + +<p>At <i>Challons sur la Soane</i>, (for there is +another town of the same name in <i>Champaigne</i>) +I had the <i>honor</i> of a visit from +<i>Mons. le Baron Shortall</i>, a gentleman of an +ancient family, <i>rather in distress at this +time</i>, by being <i>kept out</i> of six and thirty +thousand a year, his legal property in Ireland; +but as the Baron made his visit<i>ala-mode +de capuchin Friar</i>, without knocking, +and when only the female part of my family +were in the apartment, he was dismissed +<i>rather abruptly</i> for a man of <i>his high +rank</i> and <i>great fortune in expectation</i>. This +dismission, however, did not dismay him; +he rallied again, with the reinforcement of +<i>Madame la Baroness</i>, daughter, as he positively +affirmed, of <i>Mons. le Prince de Monaco</i>; +but as I had forbad his being <i>shewn +up</i>, he desired me to <i>come down</i>, a summons +curiosity induced me to obey. Never, +surely, were two people <i>of fashion</i> in a +more pitiable plight! he was in a <i>russet +brown black</i> suit of cloaths; Madame <i>la +Baroness</i> in much the same colour, wrapt +up in a tattered black silk capuchin; and +I knew not which to admire most, their +folly or their impudence; for surely never +did an <i>adventurer</i> set out with less <i>capabilities</i> +about him; his whole story was so +flagrant a fib, that in spite of the <i>very respectable +certificates of My Lord Mayor, John +Wilkes, and Mr. Alderman Bull</i>, I was obliged +to tell him plainly, that I did not +believe him to be a gentleman, nor his wife +to be a relation of the Prince of <i>Monaco</i>. +All this he took in good part, and then assured +me they were both very hungry, +and without meat or money; I therefore +ordered a dinner at twenty <i>sols</i> a head; +and, as I sat by while they eat it, I had +reason to believe that he told me <i>one plain +truth</i>, for in truth they eat as if they had +never eaten before. After dinner the Baron +did me the honour to consult with me <i>how</i> +he should get down to <i>Lyons</i>? I recommended +to him to proceed by <i>water</i>; but, +said he, my dear Sir, I have no money;—an +evil I did not chuse to redress; and, +after several unsuccessful attempts at my +purse, and some at my person,—he whispered +me that even six livres would be acceptable; +but I held out, and got off, by +proposing that the Baroness should write a +letter to the Prince her father, to whom I +had the honour to be known, and that I +would carry him the letter, and enforce +their prayer, by making it my own. This +measure she instantly complied with, and +addressed her father <i>adorable Prince</i>; but +concluded it with a name which could not +belong to her either as maid, wife, or widow. +I remarked this to the <i>Baron</i>, who +acknowledged at once <i>the mistake</i>, said she +had signed a false name, and she should +write it over again; but when I observed to +him that, as the Prince knew the handwriting +of his <i>own</i> dear child, and as the +name of women is <i>often varying by marriage</i>, +or <i>miscarriage</i>, it was all one: to this +he agreed; and I brought off the letter, +and my purse too, for forty <i>sols</i>; yet there +was so much falshood, folly, and simplicity +in this <i>simple pair of adventurers</i>, that I +sorely repented I did not give them their +passage in the <i>coche d'eau</i> to <i>Lyons</i>; for he +could not speak a word of French, nor +<i>Madame la Baroness</i> a word of English; and +the only <i>insignia</i> of distinction between +them, was, a vast clumsy brass-hilted sword +which the Baron, instead of wearing at his +side, held up at his nose, like a Physician's +gold-headed cane.—When I took my +leave of this <i>Sir James Shortall</i>, (for he +owned <i>at last</i> he was <i>only a Baronet</i>) he +promised to meet me <i>next time</i> dressed in +his blue and silver.</p> + +<p>I verily believe my Irish <i>adventurer</i> at +<i>Perpignan</i>, is a gentleman, and therefore I +relieved him; I am thoroughly persuaded +my <i>Challons</i> adventurer is not, yet perhaps +he was a real object of charity, and his true +tale would have produced him better success +than his <i>borrowed story</i>. <i>Sir James</i> +was about sixty, <i>Lady Shortall</i> about fifty.—<i>Sir +James</i> too had a pretty large property +in America, and would have visited +his estates on that continent, had I not +informed him of the present unhappy differences +now subsisting between that and +the mother country, of which he had not +heard a single syllable.</p> + + +<p>After having said thus much, I think I +must treat you with a copy of <i>Lady Shortall's</i> +letter, a name very applicable to their +unhappy situation, for they did indeed +seem short of every thing;—so here it is, +<i>verbatim et literatim</i>:</p> +<p class="break"> </p> +<p class="noindent">"<i>Monsieur Thickness gentilhomme anglaise</i></p> + +<p>"Adorable preince de monaco que tout +mordonne deme, lise au de fus de cette +lette le non deun digne homme qui me +randu ser visse, je suis malade, le convan; +serois preferable a mon bouneur +je veux sepandant sauve non marij mais +je me meure tre seve mon derinier soupire, +je ne le doit qua vous.</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">"Julie Baronne de Chatterre.</span><br /> +<i>le 18 May 1776.</i>" +</p> + +<p>"<i>A sont altess ele preince de Monaco, dans +sont hautelle rue de Vareinne a Paris</i>."</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLIX" id="LETTER_XLIX"></a>LETTER XLIX.</h2> + + +<p>From <i>Challons</i> to <i>Bonne</i>, is five leagues. +<i>Bonne</i> is a good town, well walled-in, pleasantly +situated, and remarkable for an excellent +and well-conducted Hospital, where +the poor sick are received <i>gratis</i>, without +distinction, and where the rich sick are accommodated +with nurses, physicians, medicines, +food, and lodging, with every assistance +that can be wanted, for four livres +a day. The apartments in which the poor +are received, are so perfectly clean and +sweet, that they are fit for people of any +condition; but those provided for the better +sort, are indeed sumptuously furnished. +The women who act as nurses, are of a religious +order, and wear a particular, decent, +and uniform habit, to which their +modest deportment exactly coincides; yet +most of them are young, and many of +them very beautiful.</p> + +<p>Between these two towns we met an +English servant, in a rich laced livery, conducting, +behind a post-chaise, a large quantity +of baggage; and soon after, a second +servant, in the same uniform; this excited +our curiosity, and we impatiently proceeded, +in hopes of meeting the equipage, +which it was natural to expect would soon +follow; instead of which, it was an old +English four-wheel chaise, the <i>contents</i> of +which were buckled close up behind a pair +of dirty leather curtains; and on the coach-box +sat, by the side of the driver, a man +who had the appearance of an English farmer. +This contrast rather increased than +lessened our curiosity; and, therefore, at +<i>Bonne</i>, I made some enquiry about them +of the post-master; who told me they came +in, and set off, separately, just as I had met +them; but that one servant paid for the +horses to all the carriages, and that the woman +<i>behind the curtain, according to custom, +did not chuse to shew herself</i>. Just as I was +returning with this blind account, an English +servant, who I had not perceived, but +who stood near, told me, he was sure <i>as +how</i> it was either the <i>Duchess</i> of <i>Kingston</i> +or <i>Mrs Rudd</i>, for that he <i>seed</i> her very +plain. I was much surprized at finding an +Englishman so near me; and the singularity +of the man's observation had a very +forcible effect upon me. When the +mirth which it unavoidably occasioned, +was a little subsided, I could not help correcting, +in gentle terms, (though I was otherwise +glad to see even an English footman +so far from <i>English land</i>) a man in his +station for speaking of people of high +rank with so much indecent levity, and +then told him, that there was no such person +living as the <i>Duchess</i> of <i>Kingston</i>, but +that it was probable the Lady he thought +he had seen might be <i>Lady Bristol</i>; that +there was not however, the least resemblance +between the person of her Ladyship +and the other Lady he had mentioned, +the latter being young, thin, and rather +handsome; whereas <i>Lady Bristol</i> was +very fat, and advanced in years; I therefore +suspected, I told him, that he had +confounded the trials of those two Ladies, +and fancied he saw a likeness in their persons, +by an association of ideas; but in reality, +there was as much difference in their +crimes as in their persons. <i>Crimes</i>! did I +say? that is an improper expression, because +I am informed <i>Mrs. Rudd</i> has been acquitted; +but that, if the foreign papers might +be relied on, <i>Lady Bristol</i> had been found +guilty of <span class="smcap">Bigamy</span>: But as he seemed not +to understand what I meant by <i>Bigamy</i>, or +the <i>association of ideas</i>, I was unavoidably +led into a conversation, and explanation, +with this young man; which nothing but +my pride, and his ignorance, could justify; +but as the fellow was overjoyed to see me, I +could not help giving him something to +drink, and with it a caution never to speak +of people of high rank and condition, even +behind their backs, but under their +proper names or titles, and with decency +and respect: he then begged my pardon, +and assured me, if he had known that either +of the Ladies had been a friend of +mine, he would not have coupled them so +improperly together; and I am thoroughly +convinced, the man left me with a resolution, +never to hazard a conjecture without +a better foundation than that he started to +me, and which I rather believe he hit off <i>extempore</i>, +to speak to me, and shew himself +my countryman, than from really suspecting +that the woman behind the curtain +was either <i>Lady Bristol</i>, or <i>Mrs. Rudd</i>; +though I was inclined to think it very probable, +for I had seen <i>Lord Bristol</i> on his +way through <i>Lyons</i> from <i>Italy</i> to <i>England</i>, +and had been informed, <i>Lady Bristol</i> was +then on her road to <i>Italy</i>; in which case, +I, like the footman, had my conjectures, +and accounted for the leather curtains being +so <i>closely buckled to</i>.</p> + +<p>These are trifling remarks, you will say; +but if a sign-painter can paint only a bear, +those who employ him must have a bear for +their sign; nevertheless, we have all a certain +curiosity to know even the most trifling +actions, or movements of people, who +by their virtues or vices, especially if they +are people of rank or condition, have occasioned +much talk in the world; and +therefore, ridiculous as this incident is, +yet as we have long known one of the Ladies, +and often <i>admired</i> both, I could not +let either one or the other pass me unnoticed, +on a road too, where even an English +Duchess (if she would own the truth) +would feel a secret delight in meeting of a +Hyde-park-corner groom.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned what partiality +and degree of notice, countrymen take of +each other when they meet far from home. +That notice is always in proportion to the +distance. Had my <i>Bonne</i> footman spoke +of <i>Lady Bristol</i>, or <i>Mrs. Rudd</i>, in such free +terms as <i>how he seed 'em</i>, &c. &c. at Hyde-park-corner, +or in Tyburn-road, I should +have knocked him down with the but end +of my whip; but at <i>Bonne</i> (five hundred +miles from either of those places) he and I +were <i>quatre cousins</i>; and I could not help +treating him with a bottle of <i>vin de pais</i>.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_L" id="LETTER_L"></a>LETTER L.</h2> + + +<p>From <i>Bonne</i> we intended to have taken +the high road to <i>Dijon</i>; but being informed +that there was another, though not +much frequented, by way of <i>Autun</i>, and +that <i>that</i> town, which was a Roman colony, +still contained many curious monuments +worthy of notice, we pursued the +latter, which twisted in between a vast +variety of small, but fertile valleys, watered +with brooks, bounded by romantic +hills, and some high mountains, most of +which were covered with vines, which +<i>did</i> produce the most delicious red wine in +the world; I say <i>did produce</i>, for the high +<i>gout</i> and flavour of the Burgundy grape +has for many years failed, and perhaps so +as never to return again. We, however, +missed the road to <i>Autun</i>, and, after four +leagues' journey through a most delightful +country, we arrived at a miserable auberge +in a dirty village called <i>Yozy</i>, which stands +upon the margin of a large forest, in which, +some years since, the <i>diligence</i> from <i>Lyons</i> +to <i>Paris</i> was attacked by a banditti, and +the whole party of travellers were murdered: +ever since that fatal day, a guard +of the <i>Marechaussee</i> always escort the <i>diligence</i> +through this deep and dreadful forest, +(so they called it), and we were persuaded +it was right to take a couple of the +<i>Marechaussee</i>, and did so; but as we found +the forest by no means so long, deep, or +dreadful, as it had been represented, we +suspected that the advice given us, was +more for the sake of the men who <i>guarded +us</i>, than from any regard <i>to us</i>, two men +could have made no great resistance against +a banditti; and a single man would hardly +have meddled with us.</p> + +<p>The next day we passed thro' <i>Arnay-le-Duc</i>, +a pretty country village, three leagues +from <i>Yozy</i>, and it being their annual fair-day, +we had an opportunity of seeing all +the peasantry, dressed in their best, and +much chearfulness, not only in the town, +but upon the road before we arrived, and +after we passed it. Amongst the rest of +the company, were a bear and a monkey, +or rather what <i>Buffon</i> calls the <i>maggot</i>. I +desired the shew-man to permit my <i>maggot</i>, +as he was the least, the youngest, and +the <i>stranger</i>, to pay a visit to <i>Mons. Maggot</i>, +the elder, who embraced the <i>young gentleman</i> +in a manner which astonished and +delighted every body, myself only excepted; +but as <i>my young gentleman</i> seemed totally +indifferent about the <i>old one</i>, I suspected +he had <i>really met his father</i>, and I +could not help moralizing a little.</p> + +<p>From <i>Arnay-le-Duc</i> we passed through +<i>Maupas</i>, <i>Salou</i>, <i>Rouvray</i>, <i>Quisse la forge</i>, +and <i>Vermanton</i> to <i>Auxerre</i>, the town where +the French nobleman <i>was said</i> to live, +whom Dr. <i>Smollett</i> treated so very roughly, +and who, in return, was so <i>polite</i> as to +<i>help to tie</i> the Doctor's baggage behind +his coach!</p> + +<p>About a quarter of a mile without this +town, stands a royal convent, richly endowed, +and delightfully situated; the walls +of which take in near twenty acres of land, +well planted on the banks of a river; and +here I left my two daughters, to perfect +themselves in the French language, as +there was not one person within the convent, +nor that I could find, within the +town, who could speak a word of English. +And here I must not omit to tell you, how +much I was overcome with the generosity +of this virtuous, and I must add amiable, +society of <i>religieux</i>. Upon my first inquiry +about their price for board, lodging, washing, +cloaths, and in short, every thing the +children did, or might want, they required +a sum much beyond the limits of my scanty +income to give; but before we left them, +they became acquainted with <i>some circumstances</i>, +which induced them to express +their concern that the price I had offered +(not half what they had demanded) could +not be taken. We therefore retired, and +had almost fixed the children in a cheaper +convent, but much inferior in all respects, +within the town, when we received a polite +letter from the Lady Abbess, to say, +that after consulting with her sister-hood, +they had come to a resolution to take the +children at our <i>own</i> price, rather than not +shew how much they wished to oblige us. +Upon this occasion, we were <i>all</i> admitted +within the walls of the convent; and I had +the pleasure of seeing my two daughters +joined to an elegant troop of about forty +genteel children, and of leaving them under +the care of the same number of <i>religieux</i>. +And yet these good people knew nothing +of us, but what we ourselves communicated +to them, not being known, nor knowing +any person in the town.—The Lady-Abbess +of this convent is a woman of high +rank, about twenty-four years of age, and +possesses as large a share of beauty as any +reasonable woman, even on the <i>outside</i> of +a convent, could wish for.</p> + +<p><i>Auxerre</i> is a good town, pleasantly situated, +and in a plentiful and cheap country.</p> + +<p>From <i>Auxerre</i> to <i>Ioigni</i> is five leagues. +The <i>Petit bel Vue</i> on the banks of the river +is very pleasantly situated, but a dreadful +one within side, in every respect, being a +mixture of dirt, ignorance, and imposition; +but it is the only inn for travellers, and +therefore travellers should avoid it. In order +to put my old hostess in good humour, +I called early for a bottle of Champaigne; +and in order to put me into a bad humour, +she charged me the next day for two; but +I <i>charged her</i> with <i>Mons. Le Connetable</i>, +who behaved like a gentleman, though I +think he was only a <i>marchand de tonneau</i>: +but then he was a <i>wine</i> not <i>beer</i> +cooper, who hooped the old Lady's barrel.</p> + +<p>Where-ever I was ill-used or imposed +upon, I always sent a pretty heavy packet +by the post, after I had run down a hundred +miles or two, by way of <i>draw-back</i>, +upon my host, and recompence to the +King's high road; for in France,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0"><i>"Like the Quakers' by-way,</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>'Tis plain without turnpikes, so</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>nothing to pay"</i></div> +</div></div> + +<p>An old witch, who had half starved us +at <i>Montpellier</i>, for want of provisions, when +we went, and for want of fire to dry us, +when we came back, left a piece of candle +in my budget, which I did not omit to return +by the post, <i>well packed up</i>, lest it +should grease other packets of more importance, +by riding an hundred leagues; +besides this it was accompanied by a very +civil <i>letter of advice</i>, under another cover.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LI" id="LETTER_LI"></a>LETTER LI.</h2> + + +<p>The next town of any note is <i>Sens</i>, a +large, <i>ragged</i>, ancient city; but adorned +with a most noble Gothic cathedral, more +magnificent than even that of <i>Rheims</i>, and +well worthy of the notice of strangers; it +is said to have been built by the English: +With the relicks and <i>custodiums</i> of the host, +are shewn the sacerdotal habits, in which +Archbishop <i>Becket</i> (who resided there many +years) said mass, for it was his head-quarters, +when he <i>left</i> Britain, as well as <i>Julius +Cæsar</i>'s before he went there. The +silver hasps, and some of the ornaments +of these garments, are still perfect, though +it has undergone so many darnings, as to +be little else.</p> + +<p><i>Becket</i> was a very tall man; for though +it has many tucks in it, yet it is generally +too long for the tallest priest in the town, +who constantly says mass in it on <i>St. Thomas</i>'s +day.</p> + +<p>How times and men are changed! This +town, which resisted the arms of <i>Cæsar</i> +for a considerable time, was put in the utmost +consternation by <i>Dr. Smollett</i>'s causing +his travelling blunderbuss to be only +fired in the air, a circumstance "which +greatly terrified all the <i>petit monde!</i>" It +is very singular, that the Doctor should +have frightened a French nobleman of +<i>Burgundy</i>, by shaking his cane at him, +and even made him assist in the most servile +offices; and in the next town, terrify +all the common people, by only firing a +blunderbuss in the air!</p> + +<p>I would not willingly arraign a dead man +with telling two fibbs so close upon the +back of each other; but I am sure there +was but that single French nobleman, in +this mighty kingdom, who would have +submitted to such insults as the Doctor +<i>says</i> he treated him with; nor any other +town but <i>Sens</i>, where the firing of a gun +would have so terrified the inhabitants; +for, drums, guns, and noise of every sort, +seem to afford the common French people +infinite pleasure.</p> + +<p>I spent in this town a day or two, and +part of that time with a very agreeable +Scotch family, of the name of <i>Macdonald</i>, +where Lieutenant Colonel <i>Stuart</i> was then +upon a visit.</p> + +<p>I have some reason to think that <i>Sens</i> is a +very cheap town. Several English, Scotch, +and Irish families reside in it.</p> + +<p>From <i>Sens</i> to <i>Port sur Yonne</i> is three +leagues, and from <i>Yonne</i> to <i>Foussart</i> the +same distance.</p> + +<p>At the three Kings at <i>Foussart</i>, suspecting +there was a cat behind the bed in wait for +my bird, I found, instead thereof, a little +<i>narrow door</i>, which was artfully hid, and +which opened into another room; and as +I am sure the man is a cheat, I suspect too, +that upon a <i>good occasion</i>, he would have +made some <i>use</i> of his little door.</p> + +<p><i>Foussart</i> is a small place, consisting only +of three or four public houses. From +thence to <i>Morret</i>, is three leagues, on +which road is erected a noble pillar of oriental +marble, in memory of the marriage +of <i>Lewis</i> the XVth. Soon after we passed +this monument, we entered into the delightful +forest of <i>Fontainbleau</i>; and passing +three leagues to the center of it, we arrived +at that ancient royal palace: it stands +very low, and is surrounded by a great +many fine pieces of water, which, however, +render the apartments very damp. +The King and royal family had been there +six weeks, and were gone but ten days, and +with them, all the furniture of the palace +was also gone, except glasses, and a few +pictures, of no great value. In a long, gallery +are placed, on each side of the wall, a +great number of stags' heads, carved in +wood, and upon them are fixed the horns +of stags and bucks, killed by the late, and +former Kings; some of which are very +<i>outre</i>, others singularly large and beautiful.</p> + +<p><i>Fontainbleau</i> is a good town, stands adjacent +to the palace; and as the gardens, park, +&c. are always open, it is a delightful summer +residence. We staid a few days there, +to enjoy the shady walks, and to see the humours +of a great annual fair, which commenced +the day after we arrived. All sorts +of things are sold at this fair; but the principal +business is done in the <i>wine way</i>, many +thousand pieces of the inferior Burgundy +wine being brought to this market.</p> + +<p>We made two little days' journey from +<i>Fontainbleau</i> to <i>Paris</i>, a town I entered +with concern, and shall leave with pleasure.—As +I had formerly been of some service +to <i>Faucaut</i> who keeps the <i>Hotel d'York</i>, +when he lived in <i>Rue de Mauvais Garçon</i> +I went to this <i>famous Hotel</i>, which would +have been more in character, if he had +given it the name of his former street, +and called it, <i>L'Hotel de Mauvais Garçon</i> for +it is an hospital of bugs and vermin: the +fellow has got the second-hand beds of +<i>Madame Pompadour</i>, upon his first floor, +which he <i>modestly</i> asks thirty <i>louis d'ors</i> a +month for! All the rest of the apartments +are pigeon-holes, filled with fleas, bugs, +and dirt; and should a fire happen, there +is no way of escaping. Nothing should +be more particularly attended to in <i>Paris</i> +than the security from fire, where so many, +and such a variety of strangers, and +their servants, are shut up at night, within +one <i>Porte Cochere</i>.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LII" id="LETTER_LII"></a>LETTER LII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">I found no greater alteration in <i>Paris</i>, +after ten years' absence from it, than the +prodigious difference of expence; most +articles, I think, are one-third dearer, and +many double; a horse is not half so well fed +or lodged at <i>Paris</i> as at <i>London</i>; but the +expence is nearly a guinea a week, and a +stranger may drive half round the city +before he can lodge himself and his horses +under the same roof.<a name="FNanchor_F_6" id="FNanchor_F_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_F_6" class="fnanchor">F</a></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_F_6" id="Footnote_F_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_F_6"><span class="label">F</span></a> <i>Paul Gilladeau</i> who lately left the Silver Lion, +at <i>Calais</i>, has, I am informed, opened a Livery Stable +at <i>Paris</i>, upon the <i>London</i> plan, in partnership +with <i>Dessein</i>, of the <i>Hotel d'Angleterre</i> at <i>Calais</i>: a +convenience much wanted, and undertaken by a +man very likely to succeed.</p></div></div> + +<p>The beauties, the pleasures, and variety +of amusements, which this city abounds +with, are, without doubt, the magnets +which attract so many people of rank and +fortune of all nations to it; all which are +too well known to be pointed out by me.—To +a person of great fortune in the <i>hey-day</i> +of life, <i>Paris</i> may be preferable even +to <i>London</i>; but to one of my age and walk +in life, it is, and was ten years ago, the least +agreeable place I have seen in France.—Walking +the streets is extremely dangerous, +riding in them very expensive; and +when those things which are worthy to be +seen, (and much there is very worthy) have +been seen, the city of <i>Paris</i> becomes a melancholy +residence for a stranger, who neither +plays at cards, dice, or deals in the principal +manufacture of the city; i.e. <i>ready-made +love</i>, a business which is carried on +with great success, and with more decency, +I think, <ins class="correction" title="This should read 'than'">that</ins> even in <i>London</i>. The +English Ladies are <i>weak</i> enough to attach +themselves to, and to love, one man. The +gay part of the French women love none, +but receive all, <i>pour passer le tems</i>.—The +<i>English</i>, unlike the <i>Parisian</i> Ladies, take +pains to discover <i>who</i> they love; the French +women to dissemble with those they hate.</p> + +<p>It is extremely difficult for even strangers +of rank or fortune, to get among the first +people, so as to be admitted to their suppers; +and without that, it is impossible to +have any idea of the luxury and stile in +which they live: quantity, variety, and +show, are more attended to in France, +than neatness. It is in England alone, +where tables are served with real and uniform +elegance; but the appetite meets with +more provocatives in France; and the +French <i>cuisine</i> in that respect, certainly has +the superiority.</p> + +<p>Ten years ago I had the honour to be +admitted often to the table of a Lady of the +first rank. On <i>St. Ann's-day</i>, (that being +her name-day) she received the visits of +her friends, who all brought either a valuable +present, a poesy, or a compliment in +verse: when the dessert came upon the table, +which was very magnificent, the middle +plate seemed to be the finest and fairest +fruit (<i>peaches</i>) and I was much surprized, +that none of the Ladies, were helped +by the gentlemen from <i>that</i> plate: but +my surprize was soon turned into astonishment! +for the peaches suddenly burst +forth, and played up the Saint's name, (<i>St. +Ann</i>) in artificial fire-works! and many +pretty devices of the same kind, were +whirled off, from behind the coaches of +her visitors, to which they were fixed, as +the company left the house, which had a +pretty effect, and was no indelicate way +of <i>taking a French leave</i>.</p> + +<p>There is certainly among the French +people of fashion an ease and good-breeding, +which is very captivating, and not easily +obtained, but by being bred up with +them, from an early age; the whole body +must be formed for it, as in dancing, while +there is the pliability of youth; and where +there is, as in France, a constant, early, +and intimate correspondence between the +two sexes. Men would be fierce and savage, +were it not for the society of the other +sex, as may be seen among the Turks +and Moors, who must not visit their own +wives, when other men's wives are with +them. In France, the Lady's bed-chamber +is always open, and she receives visits +in bed, or up, with perfect ease. A noble +Lord, late ambassador to this country, +told me, that when he visited a young and +beautiful woman of fashion, (I think too +it was a first visit after marriage) she received +him sitting up in her bed; and before +he went, her <i>fille de chambre</i> brought +his Lordship <i>Madame le Comtesse</i>'s shift elegantly +festooned, which his Lordship had +the honour to put over the Lady's head, +as she sat in bed!—nor was there, by that +favour, the least indecency meant; it was +a compliment intended; and, as such only, +received. Marks of favour of <i>that</i> sort, +are not marks of <i>further favours</i> from a +French Lady.</p> + +<p>In this vast city of amusements, among +the <i>other arts</i>, I cannot help pointing out +to your particular notice, <i>Richlieu</i>'s monument +in the <i>Sorbonne</i>, as an inimitable +piece of modern sculpture<a name="FNanchor_G_7" id="FNanchor_G_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_G_7" class="fnanchor">G</a> by <i>Girardeau</i>; +and <i>Madame la Valliere's</i> full-length +portrait by <i>le Brun</i>: She was, you know, +mistress to <i>Lewis</i> the XIVth, but retired +to the convent, in which the picture now +is, and where she lived in repentance and +sorrow above thirty years.<a name="FNanchor_H_8" id="FNanchor_H_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_H_8" class="fnanchor">H</a></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_G_7" id="Footnote_G_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_G_7"><span class="label">G</span></a> <span class="smcap">Voltaire</span> says, this monument is not sufficiently +noticed by strangers.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_H_8" id="Footnote_H_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_H_8"><span class="label">H</span></a> <span class="smcap">Madame Valliere</span>, during her retirement, +being told of the death of one of her sons, replied, +"I should rather grieve for his birth, than his +death."</p></div></div> + +<p>The <i>connoisseurs</i> surely can find no reasonable +fault with the monumental artist; +but they do, I think, with <i>le Brun</i>; the +drapery, they say, is too full, and that she +is overcharged with garments; but fulness +of dress, adds not only dignity, but decency, +to the person of a fine woman, who +meant (or the painter for her) to hide, +not to expose her charms.</p> + +<p>If fulness be a fault, it is a fault that +<i>Gainsborough</i>, <i>Hoare</i>, <i>Pine</i>, <i>Reynolds</i>, and +many other of our modern geniuses are +<i>guilty of</i>; and if it be <i>sin</i>, the best judges +will acquit them for committing it, where +dignity is to be considered.</p> + +<p><i>Madame Valliere</i> appears to have been +scattering about her jewels, is tearing her +hair, crying, and looking up to the heavens, +which seem bursting forth a tempest +over her head. The picture is well imagined, +and finely executed.</p> + +<p>I found upon the bulk of a <i>portable shop</i> +in <i>Paris</i>, a most excellent engraving from +this picture,<a name="FNanchor_I_9" id="FNanchor_I_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_I_9" class="fnanchor">I</a> and which carried me directly +to visit the original; it is indeed +stained and dirty, but it is infinitely superior +to a later engraving which now hangs +up in all the print shops, and I suppose is +from the first plate, which was done soon +after the picture was finished. Under it +are written the following ingenious, tho' +I fear, rather impious lines:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Magdala dam gemmas, baccisque monile coruscum</div> +<div class="i1">Projicit, ac formæ detrahit arma suæ:</div> +<div class="i0">Dum vultum lacrymis et lumina turbat; amoris</div> +<div class="i1">Mirare insidias! hac capit arte Deum.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_I_9" id="Footnote_I_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_I_9"><span class="label">I</span></a> In the possession of Mr. <span class="smcap">Gainsborough</span>.</p></div> +</div> +<p>Shall I attempt to unfold this writer's +meaning? Yes, I will, that my friend at +<i>Oxford</i> may laugh, and do it as it ought to +be done.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>I.</h4> +<div class="i0">The pearls and gems, her beauty's arms,</div> +<div class="i1">See sad <span class="smcap">Valliere</span> foregoes;</div> +<div class="i0">And now assumes far other charms</div> +<div class="i1">Superior still to those.</div> +<h4>II.</h4> +<div class="i0">The tears that flow adown her cheek,</div> +<div class="i1">Than gems are brighter things;</div> +<div class="i0">For these an earthly Monarch seek,</div> +<div class="i1">But those the <span class="smcap">King</span> of Kings.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>This seems to have been the author's +thought, if he thought <i>chastely</i>.—Shall I +try again?</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">The pearls and gems her beauty's arms,</div> +<div class="i1">See sad <span class="smcap">Valliere</span> foregoes:</div> +<div class="i0">Yet still those tears have other charms,</div> +<div class="i1">Superior far to those:</div> +<div class="i0">With those she gained an earthly Monarch's love:</div> +<div class="i0">With these she wins the <span class="smcap">King</span> of Kings above.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Yet, after all, I do suspect, that the author +meant more than even <i>to sneer</i> a little +at <i>poor Madam Valliere</i>; but, as I dislike +common-place poetry, (and poetry, as +you see, dislikes <i>me</i>) I will endeavour to +give you the literal meaning, according to +my conception, and then you will see +whether our <i>joint wits</i> jump together.</p> + +<p>While <span class="smcap">Magdalene</span> throws by her bracelets, adorned +with gems and pearls, and (thus) disarms her +beauty: while tears confound her countenance and +eyes,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">With wonder mark the stratagems of love,</div> +<div class="i0">With this she captivates the <span class="smcap">God</span> above.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The impious insinuation of the Latin +lines, is the reason, I suppose, why they +were omitted under the more modern impression +of this fine print, and very middling +French poetry superseding them.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LIII" id="LETTER_LIII"></a>LETTER LIII.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p class="noindent">If you do not use <i>Herreis</i>' bills, I recommend +to you at <i>Paris</i>, a French, rather +than an English banker; I have found the +former more profitable, and most convenient. +I had, ten years since, a letter of +credit on <i>Sir John Lambert</i>, for £300, +from <i>Mess. Hoares</i>. The <i>Knight</i> thought +proper, however, to refuse the payment of +a twenty pound draft I gave upon him; +though I had not drawn more than half +my credit out of his hands. <i>Mons. Mary</i>, +on whom I had a draft from the same respectable +house, this year will not do <i>such +things</i>; but on the contrary, be ready to +serve and oblige strangers to the utmost +of his power: he speaks and writes English +very well, and will prove an agreeable and +useful acquaintance to a stranger in <i>Paris</i>. +His sister too, who lives with him, will be +no less so to the female part of your family. +His house is in <i>Rue Saint Sauveur</i>.</p> + +<p>The English bankers pay in silver, and +it is necessary to take a wheel-barrow with +you to bring it away; a small bag will do +at the French bankers'.</p> + +<p>There is as much difference between the +bankers of <i>London</i> and bankers in <i>Paris</i>, +as between a rotten apple and a sound one. +You can hardly get a word from a London +banker, but you are sure of getting your +money; in <i>Paris</i>, you will get <i>words</i> +enough, and civil ones too. Remember, +however, I am speaking only of the treatment +I have experienced. There may be, +and are, no doubt, English bankers at <i>Paris</i> +of great worth, and respectable characters.</p> + +<p>It is not reckoned very decent to frequent +coffee-houses at <i>Paris</i>; but the politeness +of <i>Monsieur</i> and <i>Madame Felix, au caffe de +Conti</i>, opposite the <i>Pont neuf</i>, and the English +news-papers, render their house a +pleasant circumstance to me; and it is by +much the best, and best situated, of any in +<i>Paris, au vois le monde</i>.</p> + +<p>I am astonished, that where such an infinite +number of people live in so small a +compass, (for <i>Paris</i> is by no means so large +as <i>London</i>) that they should suffer the +dead to be buried in the manner they do, +or within the city. There are several burial +pits in <i>Paris</i>, of a prodigious size and +depth, in which the dead bodies are laid, +side by side, without any earth being put +over them till the ground tier is full; then, +and not till then, a small layer of earth covers +them, and another layer of dead +comes on, till by layer upon layer, and +dead upon dead, the hole is filled with a +mass of human corruption, enough to +breed a plague; these places are enclosed, +it is true, within high walls; but nevertheless, +the air cannot be <i>improved</i> by it; and +the idea of such an assemblage of putrifying +bodies, in one grave, so thinly covered, +is very disagreeable. The burials in +churches too, often prove fatal to the priests +and people who attend; but every body, +and every thing in <i>Paris</i>, is so much alive, +that not a soul thinks about the dead.</p> + +<p>I wish I had been born a Frenchman.—Frenchmen +live as if they were never to +die. Englishmen die all <i>their lives</i>; and +yet as <i>Lewis</i> the XIVth said, "I don't +think it is so difficult a matter to die, as +men generally imagine, when they +try in earnest."</p> + +<p>I must tell you before I leave <i>Paris</i>, that +I stept over to <i>Marli</i>, to see the Queen; I +had seen the King nine years ago; but he +was not then a King over eight millions +of people, and the finest country under the +sun; yet he does not seem to lay so much +stress upon his mighty power as might be +expected from so young a prince, but appears +grave and thoughtful. I am told he +attends much to business, and endeavours +to make his subjects happy. His resolution +to be inoculated, immediately after +succeeding to such a kingdom, is a proof +of his having a great share of fortitude. +In England such a determination would +have been looked upon with indifference; +but in France, where the bulk of the people +do not believe that it secures the patient +from a second attack; where the clergy +in general consider it unfavourable, even +in a religious light; and where the +physical people, for want of practice, +do not understand the management of the +distemper, so as it is known in England; +I may venture to say, without being charged +with flattery, that it was an heroic resolution: +add to this, the King knowing, that +if his subjects followed his example, it +must be chiefly done by their own surgeons +and physicians, he put himself +under their management alone, though I +think <i>Sutton</i> was then at <i>Paris</i>.</p> + +<p>The Queen is a fine figure, handsome, +and very sprightly, dresses in the present +<i>gout</i> of head dress, and without a handkerchief, +and thereby displays a most lovely +neck.</p> + +<p>I saw in a china shop at <i>Paris</i>, the figure +of the King and Queen finely executed, +and very like, in china: the King is playing +on the harp, and the Queen dropping +her work to listen to the harmony. The +two figures, about a foot high, were placed +in an elegant apartment, and the <i>toute ensemble</i> +was the prettiest toy I ever beheld: +the price thirty guineas.</p> + +<p>I shall leave this town in a few days, and +take the well-known and well-beaten <i>route +Anglois</i> for <i>Calais</i>, thro' <i>Chantilly</i>, <i>Amiens</i>, +and <i>Boulogne</i>, and then I shall have twice +crossed this mighty kingdom.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LIV" id="LETTER_LIV"></a>LETTER LIV.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Calais.</span></p> + +<p class="noindent">I am now returned to the point from +whence I sat out, and rather within the +revolution of one year; which, upon the +whole, though I met with many untoward +circumstances, has been the most interesting +and entertaining year of my whole +life, and will afford me matter of reflection +for the little which remains unfinished of +that journey we must all take sooner or +later, a journey from whence no traveller +returns.—And having said so much of myself, +I am sure you will be glad to change +the subject from man to beast, especially to +such a one as I have now to speak of.</p> + +<p>I told you, when I set out, that I had +bought a handsome-looking English horse +for seven guineas, but a little touched in his +wind; I can now inform you, that when I +left this town, he was rather thin, and had +a sore back and shoulder; both which, by +care and caution; were soon healed, and +that he is returned fair and fat, and not a +hair out of its place, though he drew two +grown persons, two children, (one of thirteen +the other ten years old) a very heavy +French cabriolet, and all our baggage, nay, +almost all my goods, chattels, and worldly +property whatever, outward and homeward, +except between <i>Cette</i> and <i>Barcelona</i>, +<i>going</i>, and <i>Lyons</i> and this town <i>returning!</i> +I will point out to you one of his day's +work, by which you will be able to judge +of his general power of working: At <i>Perpignan</i>, +I had, to save him, hired post-horses +to the first town in Spain, as I thought it +might be too much for him to ascend and +descend the <i>Pyrenees</i> in one day; beside +sixteen miles to the foot of them, on this +side, and three to <i>Jonquire</i> on the other; +but after the horses were put to, the post-master +required me to take two men to +<i>Boulou</i>, in order to hold the chaise, and to +prevent its overturning in crossing the river +near the village. Such a flagrant attempt +to impose, determined me to take +neither horses nor men; and at seven +o'clock I set off with <i>Callee</i> (that is my +houyhnhnm's name) and arrived in three +hours at <i>Boulou</i>, a paltry village, but in a +situation fit for the palace of <span class="smcap">Augustus</span>!</p> + +<p>So far from wanting men from <i>Perpignan</i> +to conduct my chaise over the river, +the whole village were, upon our arrival, +in motion after the <span class="smcap">job</span>. We, however, +passed it, without any assistance but our +own weight to keep the wheels down, and +the horse's strength and sturdiness, to drag +us through it. In about three hours more +we passed over the summit of this great +chain of the universe; and in two more, +arrived at <i>Jonquire</i>: near which village my +horse had a little bait of fresh mown hay, +the first, and last, he eat in that kingdom. +And when I tell you that this faithful, and +(for a great part of my journey) only servant +I had, never made a <i>faux pas</i>, never +was so tired, but that upon a pinch, he +could have gone a league or two farther; +nor ever was ill, lame, physicked, or bled, +since he was mine; you will agree, that +either he is an uncommon good horse, or +that his master is a good groom! Indeed I +will say that, however fatigued, wet, <ins class="correction" title="Should be 'hungry'?">hundry</ins>, +or droughty I was, I never partook +of any refreshment till my horse had every +comfort the inn could afford. I carried a +wooden bowl to give him water, and never +passed a brook without asking him to +drink.—And, as he has been my faithful +servant, I am now his; for he lives under +the same roof with me, and does nothing +but eat, drink, and sleep.—As he never +sees me nor hears my voice, without taking +some affectionate notice of me, I ventured +to ask him <i>tenderly</i>, whether he +thought he should be able to draw two of +the same party next year to <i>Rome?</i> No +tongue could more plainly express his willingness! +he answered me, <i>in French</i>, indeed, +<i>we-we-we-we-we</i>, said he; so perhaps +he might not be sincere, tho' he never +yet deceived me. If, however, he +should not go, or should out-live me, +which, is very probable, my dying request +to you will be, to procure him a peaceful +walk for the remainder of his days, within +the park-walls of some humane private +gentleman; though I flatter myself the following +petition will save <i>you</i> that trouble, +and <i>me</i> the concern of leaving him without +that comfort which his faithful services +merit.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h3><i>To</i> <span class="smcap">Sir James Tylney Long</span>, <i>Bart.</i></h3> + +<p class="center"><i>A Faithful Servant's humble Petition</i>,</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sheweth,</span></p> + + +<p>That your petitioner entered into +the service of his present master, at an advanced +age, and at a time too, that he laboured +under a pulmonic disorder, deemed +incurable; yet by gentle exercise, wholesome +food, and kind usage, he has been +enabled to accompany his master from <i>Calais</i> +to <i>Artois</i>. <i>Cambray</i>, <i>Rheims</i>, <i>St. Dezier</i>, +<i>Dijon</i>, <i>Challons</i>, <i>Macon</i>, <i>Lyons</i>, <i>Pont St. Esprit</i>, +<i>Pont du Garde</i>, <i>Nismes</i>, <i>Montpellier</i>, +<i>Cette</i>, <i>Narbonne</i>, <i>Perpignan</i> the <i>Pyrenees</i> +<i>Barcelona</i>, <i>Montserrat</i>, <i>Arles</i>, <i>Marseilles</i>, +<i>Toulouse</i>, <i>Avignon</i>, <i>Aix</i>, <i>Valence</i>, <i>Paris</i>, and +back to <i>Calais</i>, in the course of one year: +And that your petitioner has acquitted +himself so much to his master's satisfaction, +that he has promised to take him next year +to <i>Rome</i>; and upon his return, to get him +a <i>sine-cure</i> place for the remainder of his +days; and, as your petitioner can produce +a certificate of his honesty, sobriety, steadiness, +and obedience to his master; and +wishes to throw himself under the protection +of a man of fortune, honour and humanity, +he is encouraged by his said master +to make this his humble prayer to you, +who says that to above three hundred +letters he has lately written, to ask a small +boon for himself, he did not receive above +three answers that gave him the pleasure +your's did though he had twenty times +better pretensions to an hundred and fifty. +And as your petitioner has <i>seen a great deal +of the world, as well as his master</i>, and has +always observed, that such men who are +kind to their fellow-creatures, are kind +also to brutes; permit an humble brute to +throw himself at your feet, and to ask upon +his return from <i>Rome</i> a <i>lean-to</i> shed, under +your park-wall, that he may end his days +in his native country, and afford a <i>repas</i>, +at his death, to the dogs of a Man who +feeds the poor, cloaths the naked, and +who knows how to make use of the noblest +privilege which a large fortune can bestow,—that +of softening the calamities of +mankind, and making glad the hearts of +those who are oppressed with misfortunes.—Your +petitioner, therefore, who has never, +been upon his <i>knees before</i> to any man +living, humbly prays that he may be admitted +within your park-pail, and that he +may partake of that bounty which you +bestow in common to your own servants, +who, by age or misfortunes are past their +labour; in which request your petitioner's +master impowers him to use his name and +joint prayer with</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Callee.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>I do hereby certify, that nothing is advanced +in the above petition, but what is +strictly true, and that if the petitioner had +been able to express himself properly, his +merits and good qualities would have appeared +to much greater advantage, as well +as his services; as he has omitted many +towns he attended his master to, besides a +variety of smaller journies; that he is cautious, +wary, spirited, diligent, faithful, and +honest; that he is not nice, but eats, with +appetite, and good temper, whatever is set +before him; and that he is in all respects +worthy of that asylum he asks, and which +his master laments more on his account +than his own, that he cannot give him.</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Philip Thicknesse.</span> +</p><p> +<i>Calais, the 4th of Nov.</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">1776.</span> +</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LV" id="LETTER_LV"></a>LETTER LV.</h2> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Calais</span>. +</p> + +<p class="noindent">On our way here, we spent two or three +days at <i>Chantilly</i>, one, of fifty <i>Chatteaus</i> +belonging to the <span class="smcap">Prince of Conde</span>: for, +though we had visited this delightful place, +two or three times, some years ago, yet, +beside its natural beauties, there is always +something new. One spot we found particularly +pleasing, nay flattering to an Englishman; +it is called <i>l'Isle d'Amour</i>, in which +there are some thatched cottages, a water-mill, +a garden, shrubbery, &c. in the English +taste, and the whole is, in every respect, +well executed. The dairy is neat, +and the milkmaid not ugly, who has her +little villa, as well as the miller. There is +also a tea-house, a billiard-room, an eating-room, +and some other little buildings, +all externally in the English village stile, +which give the lawn, and serpentine walks +that surround them, a very pastoral appearance. +The eating-room is particularly +well fancied, being covered within, +and so painted as to produce a good idea +of a close arbor; the several windows, +which are pierced through the sides, have +such forms, as the fantastic turn of the bodies +of the painted trees admit of; and the +building is in a manner surrounded with +natural trees; the room, when illuminated +for the Prince's supper, has not only a very +pleasing effect, but is a well executed +deception, for the real trees falling into +perspective with those which are painted, +through the variety of odd-shaped windows, +has a very natural, and consequently +a very pleasing effect; but what adds +greatly to the deception, is, that at each +corner of the room the floor is opened, +and lumps of earth thrown up, which bear, +in full perfection, a great variety of flowers +and flowering shrubs. We had the honour +to be admitted while the Prince of +<i>Conde</i>, the Duke and Duchess of <i>Bourbon</i>, +the Princess of <i>Monaco</i>, and two or three +other ladies and gentlemen were at supper; +a circumstance which became rather +painful to us, as it seemed to occasion some +to the company, and particularly to the +Prince, who inquired who we were, and +took pains to shew every sort of politeness +he could to strangers he knew nothing of. +The supper was elegantly served on plate; +but there seemed to me too many servants +round the table. The conversation was +very little, and very reserved. I do not +recollect that I saw scarce a smile during +the whole time of supper.</p> + +<p>The Prince is a sprightly, agreeable +man, something in person like <i>Lord Barrington</i>; +and the <i>Duke</i> of <i>Bourbon</i> so like +his father, that it was difficult to know the +son from the father.</p> + +<p>The <i>Duchess</i> of <i>Bourbon</i> is young, handsome, +and a most accomplished lady.</p> + +<p>During the supper, a good band of music +played; but it was all wind instruments. +Mr. <i>Lejeune</i>, the first bassoon, is a +most capital performer indeed.</p> + +<p>After the dessert had been served up about +ten minutes, the Princess of <i>Monaco</i> +rose from the table, as did all the company, +and suddenly turning from it, each +lady and gentleman's servant held them a +water glass, which they used with great +delicacy, and then retired.</p> + +<p>The Princess of <i>Monaco</i> is separated from +the Prince her husband; yet she has beauty +enough for any Prince in Europe, and +brought fortune enough for two or three.</p> + +<p>The Duchess of <i>Bourbon</i> had rather a +low head-dress, and without any feather, +or, that I could perceive, <i>rouge</i>; the Princess +of <i>Monaco's</i> head-dress was equally +plain; the two other ladies, whose rank I +do not recollect, wore black caps, and hats +high dressed. There were eight persons +sat down to table, and I think, about +twenty-five servants, in and out of livery, +attended.</p> + +<p>The next day, we were admitted to see +the Prince's cabinet of natural and artificial +curiosities; and as I intimated my design +of publishing some account of my journey, +the Prince was pleased to allow me as much +time as I chose, to examine his very large +and valuable collection; among which is a +case of gold medallions,(72) of the Kings +of France, in succession, a great variety of +birds and beasts, ores, minerals, petrifactions, +gems, cameos, &c. There is also a +curious cabinet, lately presented to the +Prince by the King of Denmark; and near +it stood a most striking representation, in +wax, of a present said to be <i>served up</i> to a +late unfortunate Queen; it is the head and +right hand of <i>Count Struensee</i>, as they were +taken off after the execution; the head and +hand lie upon a silver dish, with the blood +and blood vessels too, well executed; never +surely was any thing so <i>sadly</i>, yet so +finely done. I defy the nicest eye, however +near, to distinguish it (suppose the head +laid upon a pillow in a bed) from nature; +nor must Mrs. <i>Wright</i>, or any of the workers +in wax I have ever yet seen, pretend +to a tythe of the perfection in that art, +with the man who made this head.—Sad +as the subject is, I could not withstand the +temptation of asking permission to take a +copy of it; and fortunately, I found the +man who made it was then at <i>Paris</i>,—nor +has he executed his work for me less perfect +than that he made for the Prince.—I +have been thus particular in mentioning +this piece of art, because, of the kind, I +will venture to say, it is not only <i>deadly</i> +fine, but one of the most perfect deceptions +ever seen.</p> + +<p>When you, or any of the ladies and gentlemen +who have honoured this poor performance +of mine with their names, or +their family or friends, pass this way, I +shall be happy to embrace that occasion, +to shew, that I have not said more of this +inimitable piece of art, than it merits; nor +do I speak thus positively from my own +judgment, but have the concurrent opinion +of many men of unquestionable judgment, +that it is a master-piece of art; and +among the rest, our worthy and valuable +friend Mr. <i>Sharp</i>, of the <i>Old Jewry</i>.</p> + +<p>Before we left <i>Chantilly</i>, we had a little +concert, to which <i>my train</i> added one performer; +and as it was the only string instrument, +it was no small addition.</p> + +<p>The day we left this charming place, we +found the Prince and all his company under +tents and pavilions on the road-side, +from whence they were preparing to follow +the hounds.</p> + +<p>At <i>Amiens</i>, there is in the <i>Hotel de Ville</i>, +a little antique god in bronze, which was +found, about four years ago, near a Roman +urn, in the earth, which is very well +worthy of the notice of a <i>connoisseur</i>; but +it is such as cannot decently be described; +the person in whose custody it is, permitted +me to take an impression from it in wax; +but I am not <i>quite so good</i> a hand at waxwork +as the artist mentioned above, and +yet my little houshold-god has some merit, +a merit too that was not discovered till +three months after it had been fixed in the +<i>Hotel de Ville</i>; and the discovery was made +by a female, not a male, <i>connoisseur</i>.</p> + +<p>It is said, that a Hottentot cannot be so +civilized, but that he has always a hankering +after his savage friends, and <i>dried chitterlins</i>; +and, that gypsies prefer their roving +life, to any other, a circumstance that +once did, but now no longer surprizes me; +for I feel such a desire to wander again, +that I am impatient till the winter is past, +when I intend to visit <i>Geneva</i>, and make +the tour of Italy; and if you can find me +cut a sensible valetudinarian or two, of either +sex, or any age, who will travel as we +do, to see what is to be seen, to make a little +stay, where <i>the place</i>, or <i>the people</i> invite +us to do so, who can dine on a cold partridge, +in a hot day, under a shady tree; +and travel in a <i>landau and one</i>, we will +keep them a <i>table d'hote</i>, that shall be more +pleasant than expensive, and which will +produce more health and spirits, than half +the drugs of Apothecary's Hall.</p> + +<p>If God delights so much in variety, as +all things animate and inanimate sufficiently +prove, no wonder that man should do +so too: and I have now been so accustomed +to move, though slowly, that I intend +to creep on to my <i>journey's end</i>, by which +means I may live to have been an inhabitant +of every town almost in Europe, and +die, as I have lately (and wish I had always) +lived, a free citizen of the whole +world, slave to no sect, nor subject to any +King. Yet, I would not be considered as +one wishing to promote that disposition in +others; for I must confess, that it is in +England alone, where an innocent and +virtuous man can sit down and enjoy the +blessings of liberty and his own chearful +hearth, in full confidence that no earthly +power can disturb it; and the best reason +which can be offered in favour of Englishmen +visiting other kingdoms, is, to enable +them, upon their return, to know how +to enjoy the inestimable blessings of their +own.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LVI" id="LETTER_LVI"></a>LETTER LVI.</h2> + + +<p>For what should I cross the streight +which divides us, though it were but <i>half</i> +seven leagues? we should only meet to part +again, and purchase pleasure, as most pleasures +are purchased, too dearly; I have +dropt some heavy tears, (ideally at least) +over poor <span class="smcap">Buckle's</span><a name="FNanchor_J_10" id="FNanchor_J_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_J_10" class="fnanchor">J</a> grave, and it is all +one to a man, now with <span class="smcap">God</span>! on what +King's soil such a <i>tribute as that</i> is paid: +had some men of all nations known the +goodness of his heart as we did, some men +of all nations would grieve as we do. +When I frequented <i>Morgan's</i><a name="FNanchor_K_11" id="FNanchor_K_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_K_11" class="fnanchor">K</a> I used him +as a touch-stone, to try the hearts of other +men upon; for, as he was not rich, he was +out of the walk of knaves and flatterers, +and such men, who were moot prejudiced in +his favour at first sight, and coveted not his +company after a little acquaintance, I always +avoided as beings made of base metal. +It was for this reason I despised that +****** ****, (you know who I mean) for +you too have seen him <i>snarl</i>, <i>and bite</i>, <i>and +play the dog</i>, even to <span class="smcap">Buckle</span>!</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_J_10" id="Footnote_J_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_J_10"><span class="label">J</span></a> <span class="smcap">William Buckle</span>, Esq.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_K_11" id="Footnote_K_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_K_11"><span class="label">K</span></a> <span class="smcap">Morgan's</span> Coffee-House, Grove, <span class="smcap">Bath</span>.</p></div> +</div> + +<p>Our Sunday night's tea club, round his +chearful hearth, is now for ever dissolved, +and <span class="smcap">Sharpe</span> and <span class="smcap">Rye</span> have administered +their last friendly offices with a potion of +sorrow.</p> + +<p>Were I the hermit of <i>St. Catharine</i>, I +would chissel his name as deeply into one +of my pine-heads, as his virtues are impressed +on my memory. Though I have +lost <i>his guinea</i>, I will not lose his name; he +looked down with pity upon me when +here; who can say he may not do so still? +I should be an infidel, did not a few such +men as he <i>keep me back</i>.</p> + +<p>And now, my dear Sir, after the many +trifling subjects in this very long correspondence +with you, I will avail myself of this +good one, to close it, on the noblest work +of GOD, <span class="smcap">an honest Man</span>. The loss of +such a friend, is sufficient to induce one +to lay aside all pursuits, but that of following +his example, and to prepare to follow +him.</p> + +<p>If you should ever follow me <i>here</i>, I +flatter myself you will find, that I have, to +the best of my poor abilities, made such a +sketch of <i>men and things</i> on this side of the +water, that you will be able to discover +some likeness to the originals. A bad +painter often hits the general features, +though he fall ever so short of the graces +of <i>Titian</i>, or the <i>Morbidezza</i> of <i>Guido</i>. I +am sure, therefore, you and every man of +candour, will make allowances for the +many inaccuracies, defects, &c. which I +am sensible these letters abound with, tho' +I am incapable of correcting them. My +journey, you know was not made, as most +travellers' are, to indulge in luxury, or in +pursuit of pleasures, but to soften sorrow, +and to recover from a blow, which came +from a mighty hand indeed; but a <span class="smcap">hand</span> +still <span class="smcap">more mighty</span>, has enabled me to +resist it, and to return in health, spirits, +and with that peace of mind which no +<i>earthly power</i> can despoil me of, and with +that friendship and regard for you, which +will only cease, when I cease to be</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Philip Thicknesse</span>. +</p><p> +<i>Calais, Nov. 4,</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">1776.</span> +</p> + +<p>P.S. I found <i>Berwick's</i> regiment on +duty in this town: it is commanded by +<i>Mons. le Duc de Fitz-James</i>, and a number +of Irish gentlemen, my countrymen, (for +so I will call them.) You may easily imagine, +that men who possess the natural hospitality +of their own country, with the politeness +and good-breeding of this, must +be very agreeable acquaintance in general: +But I am bound to go farther, and to say, +that I am endeared to them by marks of +true friendship. The King of France, nor +any Prince in Europe, cannot boast of +troops better disciplined; nor is the King +insensible of their merit, for I have lately +seen a letter written by the King's command +from <i>Comte de St. Germain</i>, addressed +to the officers of one of these corps, +whereby it appears, that the King is truly +sensible of their distinguished merit; for +braver men there are not in any service:—What +an acquisition to France! what a +loss to Britain!</p> + +<p>As the <i>Marquis</i> of <i>Grimaldi</i> is retired +from his public character, I am tempted +to send you a specimen of his private one, +which flattering as it is to me, and honourable +to himself, I should have withheld, had +his Excellency continued first +minister of Spain; by which you will see, +that while my own countrymen united to +set me in a suspicious light, (though they +thought otherwise) the ministers politeness +and humanity made them tremble at +the duplicity of their conduct; and had I +been disposed to have acted the same sinister +part they did, some of them might +have been reminded of an old Spanish proverb,</p> + +<p class="center"> +"<i>A las màlas lénguas tigéras</i>"<br /> +</p> + +<p>"Muy S<sup>or</sup>. mio. Por la carta de <span class="smcap">i</span><sup>o</sup> del +corr<sup>te</sup>. veo su feliz llegada a esta ciudad, +en donde habia tomado una casa, y por +las cartas que me incluye, y debuelbo, +reconosco los terminos honrados y recomendables +con que ha efectuado su salida +de Inglaterra, cosa que yo nunca podria +dudar.</p> + +<p>"Deseo que a V.S. le va' ya muy bien en +este Reyno, y espero que me avifara el tiempo +que se propusiere detener en Barcelona, +y tambien quando se verificara +su yda a Valencia: cuyo Pais se ha creydo +el mas propio para su residencia estable, +por la suavidad del clima y demas +circunstantias.—V.S. me hallara pronto +a complacerle y sevirle en lo que se +le ofrezca: que es quendo en el dia puedo +decirle, referiendome ademas a mis +cartas precedentes communicadas por +medio de ... Dios quiere a V.S. M<sup>o</sup> c<sup>o</sup> +d<sup>o</sup> S<sup>r</sup> el 14 Nov<sup>re</sup>. de 1775.<br /><br /> + + +<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">"B L.M. en. S.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">Su mayor fer<sup>or</sup>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">El Marq<sup>s</sup> de</span> <span class="smcap">Grimaldi</span>,<br /> +<i>A Don Felipe Thickness</i>." +</p> + +<p class="center"><i>A Madame</i> <span class="smcap">THICKNESSE</span>.</p> + +<p>Voila, Madame, quelques amusemens de +ma plume, vous avez paru les desirer, mon +empressement a vous obeir sera le merite de +ces legeres productions; la premiere a eu +assez de succes en France, je doute qu'elle +puisse en avoir un pareil en Angleterre, +parce que le mot n'a peut-etre pas la meme +signification ce que nous appellons Grelot +est une petite cochette fermee que l'on attache +aux hochets des enfans pour les amuser; +dans le sens metaphysique on en fait +un des attributs de la folie: Ice je l'employe +comme embleme de gaiete et d'enfance. +Le Pritems est une Epitre ecrite +de la campagne a un de mes amis; j'etois +sous le charme de la creation, pour ainsi +dire; les vers en font d'une mesuretres difficile.</p> + +<p>La description de Courcelles est celle +d'une terre qu'avoit ma mere, et ou j'ai +passe toute ma jeunesse; enchantee de son +paysage, et de la vie champetre que j'aime +passion, je l'adressois a un honnete homme +de Rheims que j'appellois par plaisanterie +mon Papa: ce que j'ai de meilleur dans +mon porte-feuille, ce sont des chansons pour +mon mari; comme je l'aime parfaitement +mon cœur m'a servi de muse: mais cette +tendresse toujours si delicieuse aux interesses +ne peut plaire a ceux qui ne le sont pas. +Quand j'auri l'honneur de vous revoir, Madame, +je vous communiquerai mon recueil, +et vous jugerez. Recevez les hommages +respectueux de mon mari, et daignezfaire +agreér nos vœux a Mons. Tiennerse; je n'ai +point encore reçu les jolies poches, je pars +demain pour la campagne, et j'y resterai +quinze jours; nous avons des chaleurs +cruelles, Messrs. les Anglois qui sont ici en +souffrent beaucoup, j'ai l'honneur d'etre avec +le plus inviolable attachement,</p> + +<p> +Madame,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Votre tres humble</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">et tres obeissante servante,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;"><i>De Courcelles Desjardins.</i></span><br /> +28 Juillet, 1776. +</p> + + + +<hr /> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4><i>Epitre au Grelot.</i></h4> + +<div class="i0">De la folie aimable lot</div> +<div class="i0">Don plus brillant que la richesse,</div> +<div class="i0">Et que je nommerai sagesse</div> +<div class="i0">Si je ne craignois le fagot,</div> +<div class="i0">C'est toi que je chante ô Grelot!</div> +<div class="i0">Hochet heureux de tous les ages</div> +<div class="i0">L'homme est à toi dès le maillot,</div> +<div class="i0">Mais dans tes nombreux appanages</div> +<div class="i0">Jamais tu ne comptas le sot:</div> +<div class="i0">De tes sons mitigés le sage</div> +<div class="i0">En tapinois se rejouït</div> +<div class="i0">Tandis que l'insensé jouït</div> +<div class="i0">Du plaisir de faire tapage.</div> +<div class="i0">Plus envié que dédaigné</div> +<div class="i0">Par cette espece atrabilaire</div> +<div class="i0">Qui pense qu'un air refrogné</div> +<div class="i0">La met au dessus du vulgaire,</div> +<div class="i0">La privation de tes bienfaits</div> +<div class="i0">Seule fait naître sa satyre;</div> +<div class="i0">Charmante idole du François</div> +<div class="i0">Chez lui réside ton empire:</div> +<div class="i0">Tes détracteurs font les pedans,</div> +<div class="i0">Les avares et les amans</div> +<div class="i0">De cette gloire destructive</div> +<div class="i0">Qui peuple l'infernale rive,</div> +<div class="i0">Et remplit l'univers d'excès.</div> +<div class="i0">L'ambitieux dans son délire</div> +<div class="i0">N'eprouve que de noirs accès,</div> +<div class="i0">Le genre-humain seroit en paix,</div> +<div class="i0">Si les conquérans savoient rire.</div> +<div class="i0">Contre ce principe évident</div> +<div class="i0">C'est en vain qu'un censeur declame,</div> +<div class="i0">Le mal ne se fait en riant.</div> +<div class="i0">Si de toi provient l'epigrame,</div> +<div class="i0">Son tour heureux ne'est que plaisant</div> +<div class="i0">Et ne nuit jamais qu'au méchant</div> +<div class="i0">Que sa conscience décèle.</div> +<div class="i0">Nomme t-on la rose cruelle</div> +<div class="i0">Lorsqu'un mal-adroit la cueillant</div> +<div class="i0">Se blesse lui-même au tranchant</div> +<div class="i0">De l'epine qu'avec prudence</div> +<div class="i0">Nature fit pour sa défense.</div> +<div class="i0">Tes simples et faciles jeux</div> +<div class="i0">Prolongent dit-on notre enfance</div> +<div class="i0">Censeur, que te faut-il de mieux!</div> +<div class="i0">Des abus, le plus dangereux,</div> +<div class="i0">Le plus voisin de la démence</div> +<div class="i0">Est de donner trop d'importance</div> +<div class="i0">A ces chiméres dont les cieux</div> +<div class="i0">Ont composé notre existence</div> +<div class="i0">Notre devoir est d'être heureux</div> +<div class="i0">A moins de frais, à moins de vœux</div> +<div class="i0">De l'homme est toute la science.</div> +<div class="i0">Par tes sons toujours enchanteurs</div> +<div class="i0">Tu fais fuir la froide vieillesse</div> +<div class="i0">Ou plutôt la couvrant de fleurs</div> +<div class="i0">Tu lui rends l'air de la jeunesse.</div> +<div class="i0">Du temps tu trompes la lenteur,</div> +<div class="i0">Par toi chaque heure est une fête</div> +<div class="i0"><i>Démocrite</i> fut ton Docteur</div> +<div class="i0"><i>Anacréon</i> fut ton Prophête;</div> +<div class="i0">Tous deux pour sages reconnus,</div> +<div class="i0">L'un riant des humains abus</div> +<div class="i0">Te fit sonner dans sa retraite</div> +<div class="i0">L'autre chantant à la guingette</div> +<div class="i0">Te donna pour pomme à <i>Venus</i></div> +<div class="i0">Après eux ma simple musette</div> +<div class="i0">T'offre ses accens ingénus</div> +<div class="i0">Charmant Grelot, sur ta clochette</div> +<div class="i0">Je veux moduler tous mes vers,</div> +<div class="i0">Sois toujours la douce amusette</div> +<div class="i0">Source de mes plaisirs divers</div> +<div class="i0">Heureux qui te garde en cachette</div> +<div class="i0">Et se passe l'univers.</div> +</div></div> + + + +<hr /> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4><i>Le Printems.</i></h4> + +<p>Epitre à Mons. D——</p> + + +<div class="i0">Déjà dans la plaine</div> +<div class="i0">On ressent l'haleine</div> +<div class="i0">Du léger Zephir;</div> +<div class="i0">Déja la nature</div> +<div class="i0">Sourit au plaisir,</div> +<div class="i0">La jeune verdure</div> +<div class="i0">A l'eclat du jour</div> +<div class="i0">Oppose la teinte</div> +<div class="i0">Que cherit l'amour</div> +<div class="i0">Fuyant la contrainte,</div> +<div class="i0">Au pied des ormeaux;</div> +<div class="i0">Ma muse naïve</div> +<div class="i0">Reprend ses pipeaux;</div> +<div class="i0">Sur la verte rive</div> +<div class="i0">Aux tendres echos</div> +<div class="i0">Elle dit ces mots.</div> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Volupté sure</div> +<div class="i0">Bien sans pareil!</div> +<div class="i0">O doux réveil</div> +<div class="i0">De la nature!</div> +<div class="i0">Que l'ame pure</div> +<div class="i0">Dans nos guérets</div> +<div class="i0">Avec yvresse</div> +<div class="i0">Voit tes attraits;</div> +<div class="i0">De la tendresse</div> +<div class="i0">Et de la paix</div> +<div class="i0">Les doux bienfaits</div> +<div class="i0">Sur toute espéce</div> +<div class="i0">Vont s'epandant,</div> +<div class="i0">Et sont l'aimant</div> +<div class="i0">Dont la magie</div> +<div class="i0">Enchaîne et lie</div> +<div class="i0">Tout l'univers</div> +<div class="i0">L'homme pervers</div> +<div class="i0">Dans sa malice</div> +<div class="i0">Ferme son cœur</div> +<div class="i0">A ces delices,</div> +<div class="i0">Et de l'erreur</div> +<div class="i0">Des goûts factices</div> +<div class="i0">Fait son bonheur</div> +<div class="i0">La noire envie</div> +<div class="i0">Fille d'orgueil,</div> +<div class="i0">Chaque furie</div> +<div class="i0">Jusqu'au circueil,</div> +<div class="i0">Tisse sa vie.</div> +<div class="i0">Les vains désirs</div> +<div class="i0">Les vrais plaisirs</div> +<div class="i0">Sont antipodes;</div> +<div class="i0">A ces pagodes</div> +<div class="i0">Culte se rend,</div> +<div class="i0">L'oeil s'y méprend</div> +<div class="i0">Et perd de vuë</div> +<div class="i0">Felicité,</div> +<div class="i0">La Déité</div> +<div class="i0">La plus couruë</div> +<div class="i0">La moins connuë</div> +<div class="i0">Simple réduit</div> +<div class="i0">Et solitaire</div> +<div class="i0">Jadis construit</div> +<div class="i0">Par le mystére</div> +<div class="i0">Est aujourd'hui</div> +<div class="i0">Sa residencei</div> +<div class="i0">La bienveillance.</div> +<div class="i0">Au front serein</div> +<div class="i0">De la déesse</div> +<div class="i0">Est la Prêtresse;</div> +<div class="i0">Les ris badins</div> +<div class="i0">Sont sacristains,</div> +<div class="i0">Joyeux fidelles,</div> +<div class="i0">De fleurs nouvelles</div> +<div class="i0">Offrent les dons.</div> +<div class="i0">Tendres chansons</div> +<div class="i0">Tribut du Zele,</div> +<div class="i0">Jointes au sons</div> +<div class="i0">De Philoméle,</div> +<div class="i0">De son autel</div> +<div class="i0">Sont le rituel</div> +<div class="i0">Dans son empire</div> +<div class="i0">Telle est la loi,</div> +<div class="i0">"Aimer et rire</div> +<div class="i0">De bonne foy."</div> +<div class="i0">Cet Evangile</div> +<div class="i0">Peu difficile</div> +<div class="i0">Du vrai bonheur</div> +<div class="i0">Seroit auteur</div> +<div class="i0">Si pour apôtre</div> +<div class="i0">Il vous avoit;</div> +<div class="i0">En vain tout autre</div> +<div class="i0">Le prêcheroit.</div> +<div class="i0">La colonie</div> +<div class="i0">Du double mont</div> +<div class="i0">Du vraie génie</div> +<div class="i0">Vous a fait don,</div> +<div class="i0">Sans nul caprice</div> +<div class="i0">Entrez en lice,</div> +<div class="i0">Et de Passif</div> +<div class="i0">Venant actif</div> +<div class="i0">Pour la Déesse</div> +<div class="i0">Enchanteresse</div> +<div class="i0">Qui dans ces lieux</div> +<div class="i0">Nous rend heureux</div> +<div class="i0">Donnez moi rose</div> +<div class="i0">Nouvelle éclose:</div> +<div class="i0">Du doux Printems</div> +<div class="i0">Hâtez le tems</div> +<div class="i0">Il etincelle</div> +<div class="i0">En vos écrits,</div> +<div class="i0">Qu'il renouvelle</div> +<div class="i0">Mes Esprits.</div> +<div class="i0">Adieu beau Sire,</div> +<div class="i0">Pour ce délire</div> +<div class="i0">Le sentiment</div> +<div class="i0">Est mon excuse.</div> +<div class="i0">S'il vous amuse</div> +<div class="i0">Un seul moment,</div> +<div class="i0">Et vous rapelle</div> +<div class="i0">Un cœur fidelle</div> +<div class="i0">Depuis cent ans,</div> +<div class="i0">Comme le vôtre</div> +<div class="i0">En tous les tems</div> +<div class="i0">N'ai désir autre.</div> +</div></div> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="FABLE" id="FABLE"></a>FABLE</h2> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4><i>Les Aquilons et l'Oranger.</i></h4> + + +<div class="i0">De fougeux Aquilons une troupe emportée</div> +<div class="i0">Contre un noble Oranger éxhaloit ses fureurs</div> +<div class="i0">Ils soufflerent en vain, leur rage mutinée</div> +<div class="i0">De l'arbre aux fruits dorés n'ôta que quelques fleurs.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>MADRIGAL</h4> + +<div class="i0">Du tumulte, du bruit, des vaines passions</div> +<div class="i0">Fuyons l'eclat trompeur: à leurs impressions</div> +<div class="i0">Préférons les douceurs de ce sejour paisible,</div> +<div class="i0">Disoit un jour <i>Ariste</i> à la tendre <i>Délos</i>.</div> +<div class="i0">Soit, repart celle-ci; mais las! ce doux repos</div> +<div class="i0">N'est que le pis-aller d'une ame trop sensible.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>QUATRAIN</h4> + +<div class="i0">Telle que ce ruisseau qui promene son onde</div> +<div class="i0">Dans des lieux ecartés loin du bruit et du monde</div> +<div class="i0">Je veux pour peu d'amis éxister desormais</div> +<div class="i0">C'est loin des faux plaisirs que l'on trouve les vrais.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>REVERIE SUR UNE LECTURE.</h4> + +<div class="i0">Aux froids climats de l'ourse, et dans ceux du midi,</div> +<div class="i0">L'homme toujours le même est vain, foible, et crédule,</div> +<div class="i0">Sa devise est partout <i>Sottise et Ridicule</i>.</div> +<div class="i0">Le célébre Chinois, le François étourdi</div> +<div class="i0">De la raison encore n'ont que le crepuscule</div> +<div class="i0">Jadis au seul hazard donnant tout jugement,</div> +<div class="i0">Par les effets cuisans du fer rougi qui brule</div> +<div class="i0">On croyoit discerner le foible et l'innocent;</div> +<div class="i0">A Siam aujourd'hui pareille erreur circule,</div> +<div class="i0">Et l'on voit même esprit sous une autre formule:</div> +<div class="i0">Quand quelque fait obscur tient le juge en suspens</div> +<div class="i0">On fait aux yeux de tous à chaque contendant</div> +<div class="i0">D'Esculape avaler purgative pillule,</div> +<div class="i0">Celui dont l'estomac répugne à pareil mets</div> +<div class="i0">Est réputé coupable et paye tous les frais.</div> +<div class="i0">Du pauvre genre-humain telles sont les annales:</div> +<div class="i0">Rome porta le deuil de l'honneur des vestales,</div> +<div class="i0">Du Saint Pere à présent, elle baise l'ergot:</div> +<div class="i0">Plus gais, non plus sensés dans ce siécle falot</div> +<div class="i0">Nous choisissons au moins l'erreur la plus jolie:</div> +<div class="i0">De l'inquisition, le bal, la comédie</div> +<div class="i0">Remplacent parmi nous le terrible fagot;</div> +<div class="i0">Notre légéreté détruit la barbarie</div> +<div class="i0">Mais nous n'avons encore que changé de folie.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>ENVOI A MON MARI.</h4> + +<div class="i0">Tandis, mon cher, que tes travaux</div> +<div class="i0">Me procurent ce doux repos.</div> +<div class="i0">Et cette heureuse insouciance</div> +<div class="i0">But incertain de l'opulence;</div> +<div class="i0">Mon ame l'abeille imitant</div> +<div class="i0">Aux pays d'esprit élancée</div> +<div class="i0">Cueille les fleurs de la pensée</div> +<div class="i0">Et les remet aux sentiment.</div> +<div class="i0">Mais helas! dans ce vaste champ</div> +<div class="i0">En vain je cherche la sagesse,</div> +<div class="i0">Près de moi certain Dieu fripon</div> +<div class="i0">Me fait quitter l'école de <i>Zenon</i></div> +<div class="i0">Pour le charme de la tendresse;</div> +<div class="i0">"L'homme est crée pour être bon</div> +<div class="i0">Et non savant, dit il, qu'il aime,</div> +<div class="i0">Du bonheur c'est le vrai systême"</div> +<div class="i0">Je sens, ma foi, qu'il a raison.</div> +</div></div> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="DESCRIPTION" id="DESCRIPTION"></a>DESCRIPTION</h2> + +<p class="center"><i>De la terre dans laquelle j'habitois, adressée à un +homme très respectable que j'appellois mon Papa.</i></p> + + +<p>Que vous êtes aimable, mon cher Papa, de +me demander une description de ma solitude. +Votre imagination est gênée de ne pouvoir se la +peindre. Vous voulez faire de <i>Courcelles</i> une seconde +étoile du matin, et y lier avec moi un de +ces commerces d'ames réservés aux favoris de +Brama. Votre idée ne me perdra plus de vue, +j'en ferai mon génie tutélaire. Je croirai à chaque +instant sentir sa présence, ah! elle ne peut +trop tôt arriver, montrons lui donc le chemin.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quittant votre cité Rhémoise,</div> +<div class="i0">Ville si fertil en bons Vins,</div> +<div class="i0">En gras moutons, en bons humains,</div> +<div class="i0">Après huit fois trois mille toises</div> +<div class="i0">Toujours suivant le grand chemin,</div> +<div class="i0">On découvre enfin le village</div> +<div class="i0">Où se trouve notre hermitage.</div> +<div class="i0">Là rien aux yeux du voyageur</div> +<div class="i0">Ne presente objet de surprise,</div> +<div class="i0">Petit ruisseau, des maisons, une Eglise</div> +<div class="i0">Tout à côté la hutte du Pasteur;</div> +<div class="i0">Car ces Messieurs pour quelques Patenôtres.</div> +<div class="i0">Pour un surplis, pour un vêtement noir</div> +<div class="i0">En ce monde un peu plus qu'en l'autre</div> +<div class="i0">Ont droit près du bon dieu d'établir leur manoir.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Ce début n'est pas fort seduisant; aussi ne vous +ai-je rien promis de merveilleux. Je pourrois +cependant pour embellir ma narration me perdre +dans de brillantes descriptions, et commencer par +celle de notre clocher; mais malheureusement +nous n'en avons point; car je ne crois pas que +l'on puisse appeller de ce nom l'endroit presque +souterrain où logent trois mauvaises cloches. +Elles m'étourdissent par fois au point que sans +leur baptême, je les enverrois aux enfers sonner +les diners de <i>Pluton</i> et de <i>Proserpine</i>.</p> + +<p>On apperçoit près de l'Eglise, entre elle et le +curé, une petite fenêtre grillée, ceci est une vraie +curiosité; c'est un sépulcre bâti par <i>Saladin d'Anglure</i>, +ancien Seigneur de <i>Courcelles</i> il vivoit du +tems des croisades, et donna comme les autres +dans la manie du siécle. Il ne fut pas plus heureux +que ses confreres. Son sort fut d'être prisonnier +du vaillant Saladin dont il conserva le +surnom. Sa captivité l'ennuyant, il fit vœu, si +elle finissoit bientôt, de bàtir dans sa Seigneurie +un sépulcre, et un calvaire à même distance l'un +de l'autre qu'ils le sont à Jérusalum. C'est aussi +ce qu'il fit.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quand par une aventure heureuse,</div> +<div class="i0">Des fers du Vaillant <i>Saladin</i></div> +<div class="i0">Il revint chez lui sauf et sain;</div> +<div class="i0">Mais la chronique scandaleuse</div> +<div class="i0">Qui daube toujours le prochain,</div> +<div class="i0">Et ne se repâit que de blame</div> +<div class="i0">Pretend que trop tôt pour Madame,</div> +<div class="i0">Et trop tard pour le Pelerin</div> +<div class="i0">Dans son Châtel il s'en revint.</div> +<div class="i0">Ce fut, dit on, le lendemain,</div> +<div class="i0">La veille, ou le jour que la Dame,</div> +<div class="i0">Croyant son mari très benin</div> +<div class="i0">Parti pour la gloire éternelle</div> +<div class="i0">Venoit de contracter une hymenée nouvelle.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">La tradition étoit en balance sur ces trois dates; +mais la malignité humaine a donné la préférence +à la derniére, ensorte qu'il paroit trés sur que +l'Epoux n'arriva que le lendemain.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quel affront pour un chef couronné de lauriers!</div> +<div class="i0">Tel est pourtant le sort des plus fameux guerriers;</div> +<div class="i0">Ceux d'aujourd'hui n'en font que rire</div> +<div class="i0">Mais ceux du tems passé mettoient la chose au pis,</div> +<div class="i0">Ils n'avoient pas l'esprit de dire</div> +<div class="i0">Nous sommes quitte, et bons amis.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Pendant que vous êtes en train de visiter nos antiquités +courcelloises, il me prend envie de vous +faire entrer dans notre réduit.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quoique du titre de château,</div> +<div class="i0">Pompeusement on le decore,</div> +<div class="i0">Ne vous figurez pas qu'il soit vaste ni beau.</div> +<div class="i0">Tel que ces Grands que l'on honore</div> +<div class="i0">Pour les vertus de leurs ayeux</div> +<div class="i0">Pour tout mérite il n'a comme eux</div> +<div class="i0">Qu'un nom qui se conserve encore.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Ainsi pour vous en former une juste idée, ne cherchez +votre modéle ni dans les romans, ni dans les +miracles de féerie. Ce n'est pas même un vieux +château fort, comme il en éxiste encore quelques +uns dàns nos entours.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Point, on n'y voit fossé ni bastion</div> +<div class="i0">Ni demi-lune ni Dongeon,</div> +<div class="i0">Ni beaux dehors de structure nouvelle,</div> +<div class="i0">Mais bien une antique Tourelle</div> +<div class="i0">Flanquant d'assez, vieux bâtimens</div> +<div class="i0">Dont elle est l'unique ornement.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Un Poëte de nos cantons a dit assez plaisamment +en parlant de ceci.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Sur les bords de la Vesle est un château charmant</div> +<div class="i0">N'allez pas chicaner, Lecteur impertinent)</div> +<div class="i0">(Le bâtiment à part, la Dame qui l'habite</div> +<div class="i0">Par ses rares vertus en fait tout le mérite.</div> +<div class="i0">Vous verrez tout-à l'heure s'il avoit raison.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Je ne m'arrêterai point à vous peindre la ferme +quoi qu'elle tienne au château, ni l'attirail des animaux +de toute espèce qu'elle renferme.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Ces spectacles vraiment rustiques</div> +<div class="i0">Offrent pourtant plus de plaisirs</div> +<div class="i0">A des regards philosophiques,</div> +<div class="i0">Que ce que l'art et les desirs</div> +<div class="i0">De notre insatiable espèce</div> +<div class="i0">Inventent tous les jours aidés par la mollesse.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Je vous ferai entrer tout de suite dans une grande +cour de gazon où effectivement je voudrois bien +vous voir. Deux manieses de Perrons y conduisent, +l'un aux appartemens, l'autre à la cuisine. +Commençons par ce dernier quoique ce ne soit +pas trop la coutume.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Là chaque jour, tant bien que mal,</div> +<div class="i0">On apprete deux fois un repas très frugal,</div> +<div class="i0">Mais que l'appétit assaisonne.</div> +<div class="i0">Loin, bien loin, ces bruyans festins,</div> +<div class="i0">Toujours suivis des médecins</div> +<div class="i0">Où le poison dans cent ragoûts foisonne</div> +<div class="i0">Nous aimons mieux peu de mets bien choisis</div> +<div class="i0">De la Santé, moins de plats, plus de ris.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Voilà notre devise, mon cher Papa, je crois qu'elle +est aussi la vôtre; notre réz de chaussée consiste +en cuisine, office, salle à manger, chambre et cabinets, +rien de tout cela n'est ni élegant ni commode.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Nos devanciers fort bonnes gens</div> +<div class="i0">N'entendoient rien aux ornemens</div> +<div class="i0">Et leurs désirs ne passoient guére</div> +<div class="i0">Les bornes du seul necessaire.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Ils étoient plus heureux et plus sages que nous, +car la vraie sagesse n'est autre chose que la modération +des desirs. D'après cette definition on +pourroit, je crois, loger tout notre siécle aux petites +maisons. Ce qu'il y a de plus agréable dans +la notre est la vuë du grand chemin.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">De ce chemin où chacun trotte</div> +<div class="i0">Où nous voyons soirs et matins</div> +<div class="i0">Passer toute espece d'humains;</div> +<div class="i0">Tantôt la gent portant calote,</div> +<div class="i0">Et tantôt de jeunes plumets,</div> +<div class="i0">Les rusés disciples d'Ignace</div> +<div class="i0">Puis ceux de la grace efficace,</div> +<div class="i0">Des piétons, des cabriolets</div> +<div class="i0">Tant d'Etres à deux pieds, sots, et colifichets,</div> +<div class="i0">Enfin cent sortes d'équipages</div> +<div class="i0">Et mille sortes de visages.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Ce tableau mouvant est par fois fort récréatif, il +me paroit assez plaisant d'y juger les gens sur la +mine, et de deviner leur motif, et le sujet de leurs +courses.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Mais, Papa, qu'il est consolant</div> +<div class="i0">Voyant leurs soins et leur inquiétude</div> +<div class="i0">De jouir du repos constant</div> +<div class="i0">Qu'on goute dans la solitude.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">A dire vrai, le spectacle du grand chemin, est +celui qui m'occupe le moins; j'aime mille fois +mieux nos promenades champêtres; avant de +yous y conduire, il faut en historien fidelle vous +rendre compte de notre chaumiére.</p> + +<p>Vous croyez peut-être trouver un premier +étage au dessus de la façade dont je vous ai parlé? +Point du tout. Ne vous ai-je pas dit que nos +péres préferoient l'utile à l'agréable: aussi ont ils +mieux aimé construire de grands greniers que de +jolis appartemens; mais en revanche ils out jetté +quantité de petites mansardes sur un autre côté +du logis. Ce dernier donne sur un verger qui +fait mes délices, il est précédé d'un petit parterre, +et finit par un bois charmant.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Une onde toujours claire et pure</div> +<div class="i0">Y vient accorder souo murmure</div> +<div class="i0">Au son mélodieux de mille et mille oiseaux</div> +<div class="i0">Que cachent en tous tems nos jeunes arbrisseaux.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">C'est là que votre fille se plait à rêver à vous, +mon cher Papa, c'est dans ce réduit agréable +qu'elle s'occupe tour à tour de morale et de tendresse.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<p class="center"><i>Epictete, Pope, Zénon.</i></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Et <i>Socrate</i>, et surtout l'ingenieux <i>Platon</i>,</div> +<div class="i0">Viennent dans ces lieux solitaires</div> +<div class="i0">Me prêter le secours de leurs doctes lumiéres:</div> +<div class="i0">Mais plus souvent la sœur de l'enfant de Cypris</div> +<div class="i0">Ecartant sans respect cette foule de sages</div> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">Occupe seule mes esprits</div> +<div class="i1">En y gravant de mes amis</div> +<div class="i1">Les trop séduisantes images.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Je n'entreprendrai pas de vous peindre nos autres +promenades, elles sont toutes charmantes; +un paysage coupé, quantité de petits bosquets, +mille jolis chemins, nous procurent naturellement +des beautés auxquelles l'art ne sauroit atteindre.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">La Vesle borde nos prairies</div> +<div class="i0">Sur sa rive toujours fleurie</div> +<div class="i0">Regne un doux air de bergerie</div> +<div class="i0">Dangereux pour les tendres cœurs.</div> +<div class="i0">Là, qui se sent l'ame attendrie</div> +<div class="i0">S'il craint de l'amour les erreurs</div> +<div class="i0">Doit vite quitter la partie.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Quittons la donc, mon cher Papa; aussi bien +ai-je seulement oublié de vous montrer la plus +piéce de l'hermitage. C'est un canal superbe. +Il a cent vingt toises de long sur douze de large, +une eau courante et crystalline en rend la surface +toujours brillante, cest la digne embléme +d'un cœur ami, jugez si cette vuë me fait penser +à vous.</p> + +<p>De grands potagers terminent l'enclos de la +maison. Si j'étois méchante je continuerois ma +description, et ne vous ferois pas grace d'une +laitue, mais je me contenteraide vous dire que le +ciel fit sans doute ce canton pour des Etres broutans. +Si les Israëlites en eussent mangé jadis, ils +n'auroient ni regretté l'Egypte ni desiré la terre +promise.</p> + +<p>Voilà mon cher Papa une assez mauvaize esquisse +du pays Courcellois.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">L'air m'en seroit plus doux et le ciel plus serein</div> +<div class="i0">Si quelque jour, moins intraitable</div> +<div class="i0">Et se laissant flechir, le farouche Destin</div> +<div class="i0">Y conduisoit ce <i>trio</i> tant aimable</div> +<div class="i0">Que j'aime, et chérirai sans fin</div> +<div class="i0">Mais las! j'y perds tout mon latin,</div> +<div class="i0">Et ce que de mieux je puis faire</div> +<div class="i0">Est d'espérer et de me taire</div> +</div></div> + +<hr /> + +<p class="noindent">I should have stopt here, and finished +my present correspondence with you by +leaving your mind harmonized with the +above sweet stanzas of <i>Madame des Jardins</i>, +but that it may seem strange, to give a +specimen of one French Lady's literary +talents, without acknowledging, that this +kingdom abounds with many, of infinite +merit.—While England can boast only of +about half a dozen women, who will immortalize +their names by their works, +France can produce half an hundred, admired +throughout Europe, for their wit, +genius, and elegant compositions.—Were +I to recite the names and writings only of +female authors of eminence, which France +has produced, since the time of the first, +and most unfortunate <i>Heloise</i>, who died in +1079, down to <i>Madame Riccoboni</i>, now +living, it would fill a volume. We have, +however, a <span class="smcap">Carter</span>, and a <span class="smcap">Barbauld</span>, +not less celebrated for their learning and +genius than for their private virtues; and +I think it may, with more truth be said of +women, than of men, that the more knowledge, +the more virtue; the more understanding, +the less courage. Why then is +the <i>plume elevated to the head</i>? and what +must the present mode of female education +and manners end in, but in more ignorance, +dissipation, debauchery and luxury? +and, at length, in national ruin. Thus +it was at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, the mistress of the world; +they became fond of the most vicious men, +and such as meant to enslave them, who +corrupted their hearts, by humouring and +gratifying their follies, and encouraging, +on all sides, idleness and dissolute manners, +blinded by <span class="smcap">Cæsar</span>'s complaisance; +from his <i>almsmen</i>, they became his <i>bondmen</i>; +he charmed them in order to enslave +them. When the tragedy of <i>Tereus</i> was +acted at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, <i>Cicero</i> observed, what plaudits +the audience gave with their hands +at some severe strokes in it against tyranny; +but he very justly lamented, that they +employed their hands, <i>only in the Theatre</i>, +not in defending that liberty which they +seemed so fond of.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h3>And now, as <span class="smcap">Bayes</span> says, "let's have +a Dance." ——</h3> + + + +<hr /> +<h3><a name="GENERAL_HINTS" id="GENERAL_HINTS"></a>GENERAL HINTS</h3> + +<h4>TO</h4> + +<h2>STRANGERS</h2> + +<h4>WHO</h4> + +<h3>TRAVEL IN FRANCE.</h3> + + + +<hr /> +<h2>GENERAL HINTS, &c.</h2> + +<p class="center">I.</p> + + +<p>If you travel post, when you approach +the town, or bourg where you intend to +lie, ask the post-boy, which house he recommends +as the best? and never go to +that, if there is any other.—Be previously +informed what other inns there are in the +same place. If you go according to the +post-boy's recommendation, the aubergiste +gives him two or three livres, which he +makes you pay the next morning. I know +but one auberge between <i>Marseilles</i> and +<i>Paris</i>, where this is not a constant practice, +and that is at <i>Vermanton</i>, five leagues +from <i>Auxerre</i>, where every English traveller +will find a decent landlord, <i>Monsieur +Brunier</i>, <i>a St. Nicolas</i>; good entertainment, +and no imposition, and consequently +an inn where no post-boy will drive, if he +can avoid it.</p> + + +<p class="center">II.</p> + +<p>If you take your own horses, they must +be provided with head-pieces, and halters; +the French stables never furnish any +such things; and your servant must take +care that the <i>Garçon d'Ecurie</i> does not +buckle them so tight, that the horses cannot +take a full bite, this being a common +practice, to save hay.</p> + + +<p class="center">III.</p> + +<p>If the <i>Garçon d'Ecurie</i> does not bring +the halters properly rolled up, when he +puts your horses to, he ought to have nothing +given him, because they are so constantly +accustomed to do it, that they cannot +forget it, <i>but in hopes you may too</i>.</p> + + +<p class="center">IV.</p> + +<p>Direct your servant, not only to see +your horses watered, and corn given them, +but to <i>stand by</i> while they eat it: this is +often necessary in England, and always in +France.</p> + + +<p class="center">V.</p> + +<p>If you eat at the <i>table d'Hote</i>, the price +is fixed, and you cannot be imposed upon. +If you eat in your own chamber, and order +your own dinner or supper, it is as necessary +to make a previous bargain with +your host for it, as it would be to bargain +with an itinerant Jew for a gold watch; +the <i>conscience</i> and <i>honour</i> of a <i>French Aubergiste</i>, +and a travelling Jew, are always +to be considered alike; and it is very remarkable, +that the publicans in France, +are the only people who receive strangers +with a cool indifference! and where this +indifference is most shewn, there is most +reason to be cautious.</p> + + +<p class="center">VI.</p> + +<p>Be careful that your sheets are well +aired, otherwise you will find them often, +not only damp, but perfectly wet.—Frenchmen +in general do not consider +wet or damp sheets dangerous, I am sure +French <i>Aubergistes</i> do not.</p> + + +<p class="center">VII.</p> + +<p>Young men who travel into France with +a view of gaining the language, should always +eat at the <i>table d'Hote</i>.—There is +generally at these tables, an officer, or a +priest, and though there may be none but +people of a middling degree, they will shew +every kind of attention and preference to +a stranger.</p> + + +<p class="center">VIII.</p> + +<p>It is necessary to carry your own pillows +with you; in some inns they have them; +but in villages, <i>bourgs</i>, &c. none are to be +had.</p> + + +<p class="center">IX.</p> + +<p>In the wine provinces, at all the <i>table +d'Hotes</i>, they always provide the common +wine, as we do small beer; wine is never +paid for separately, unless it is of a quality +above the <i>vin du Pays</i>; and when you call +for better, know the price <i>before</i> you +drink it.</p> + + +<p class="center">X.</p> + +<p>When fine cambrick handkerchiefs, &c. +are given to be washed, take care they are +not trimmed round two inches narrower, +to make borders to <i>Madame la Blanchisseuse's</i> +night caps: this is a little <i>douceur</i> +which they think themselves entitled to, +from my Lord <i>Anglois</i>, whom they are sure +is <i>tres riche</i>, and consequently ought to be +plundered by the poor.</p> + + +<p class="center">XI.</p> + +<p>Whenever you want honest information, +get it from a French officer, or a priest, +provided they are on the <i>wrong</i> side of forty; +but in general, avoid all acquaintance +with either, on the <i>right</i> side of thirty.</p> + + +<p class="center">XII.</p> + +<p>Where you propose to stay any time, be +very cautious with whom you make an acquaintance, +as there are always a number +of officious forward Frenchmen, and English +adventurers, ready to offer you their +services, from whom you will find it very +difficult to disengage yourself, after you +have found more agreeable company.—Frenchmen +of real fashion, are very circumspect, +and will not <i>fall in love with you</i> +at first sight; but a designing knave will +exercise every species of flattery, in order +to fix himself upon you for his dinner, or +what else he can get, and will be with +you before you are up, and after you are +in bed.</p> + + +<p class="center">XIII.</p> + +<p>Wherever there is any cabinet of curiosities, +medals, pictures, &c. to be seen, +never make any scruple to send a card, desiring +permission to view them; the request +is flattering to a Frenchman, and you will +never be refused; and besides this you will +in all probability thereby gain a valuable +acquaintance.—It is generally men of +sense and philosophy, who make such collections, +and you will find the collector +of them, perhaps, the most pleasing part +of the cabinet.</p> + + +<p class="center">XIV.</p> + +<p>Take it as a maxim, unalterable as the +laws of the Medes and Persians, that whenever +you are invited to a supper at <i>Paris</i>, +<i>Lyons</i>, or any of the great cities, where a +<i>little</i> trifling play commences before supper, +that <span class="smcap">great play</span> is intended after +supper; and that you are the marked pigeon +to be plucked. Always remember +<i>Lord Chesterfield's</i> advice to his son: "If +you play with men, know with <i>whom</i> +you play; if with women, for <i>what</i>:" +and don't think yourself the more secure, +because you see at the same table some of +your own countrymen, though they are +Lords or Ladies; a <i>London</i> gambler would +have no chance in a <i>Parisian</i> party.</p> + + +<p class="center">XV.</p> + +<p>Dress is an essential and most important +consideration with every body in France. +A Frenchman never appears till his hair is +well combed and powdered, however slovenly +he may be in other respects.—Not +being able to submit every day to this ceremony, +the servant to a gentleman of fashion +at whose house I visited in <i>Marseilles</i>, +having forgot my name described me to +his master, as the gentleman whose hair +was <i>toujours mal frise</i>.—Dress is a foolish +thing, says <i>Lord Chesterfield</i>; yet it is a +foolish thing not to be well dressed.</p> + + +<p class="center">XVI.</p> + +<p>You cannot dine, or visit after dinner, +in an undress frock, or without a bag to +your hair; the hair <i>en queue</i>, or a little cape +to your coat, would be considered an unpardonable +liberty. Military men have an +advantage above all others in point of dress, +in France; a regimental or military coat +carries a man with a <i>bonne grace</i> into all +companies, with or without a bag to his +hair; it is of all others the properest dress +for a stranger in France, on many accounts.</p> + + +<p class="center">XVII.</p> + +<p>In France it is not customary to drink to +persons at table, nor to drink wine after +dinner: when the dessert is taken away, so +is the wine;—an excellent custom, and +worthy of being observed by all nations.</p> + + +<p class="center">XVIII.</p> + +<p>It is wrong to be led into any kind of +conversation, but what is absolutely necessary, +with the common, or indeed the +middling class of people in France. They +never fail availing themselves of the least +condescension in a stranger, to ask a number +of impertinent questions, and to conclude, +you answer them civilly, that they +are your equals.—Sentiment and bashfulness +are not to be met with, but among +people of rank in France: to be free and +easy, is the etiquette of the country; and +some kinds of that free and easy manner, +are highly offensive to strangers, and particularly +to a shy Englishman.</p> + + +<p class="center">XIX.</p> + +<p>When well-bred people flatter strangers, +they seldom direct their flattery to +the object they mean to compliment, but +to one of their own country:—As, what a +<i>bonne grace</i> the English have, says one to +the other, in a whisper loud enough to be +heard by the whole company, who all give +a nod of consent; yet in their hearts they +do not love the English of all other nations, +and therefore conclude, that the English +in their hearts do not love them.</p> + + +<p class="center">XX.</p> + +<p>No gentleman, priest, or servant, male +or female, ever gives any notice by knocking +before they enter the bed-chamber, +or apartment of ladies or gentlemen.—The +post-man opens it, to bring your letters; +the capuchin, to ask alms; and the +gentleman to make his visit. There is no +privacy, but by securing your door by a +key or a bolt; and when any of the middling +class of people have got possession of +your apartment, particularly of a stranger, +it is very difficult to get them out.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXI.</p> + +<p>There is not on earth, perhaps, so curious +and inquisitive a people as the lower +class of French: noise seems to be one of +their greatest delights. If a ragged boy +does but beat a drum or sound a trumpet, +he brings all who hear it about him, with +the utmost speed, and most impatient curiosity.—As +my monkey rode postillion, +in a red jacket laced with silver, I was obliged +to make him dismount, when I +passed thro' a town of any size: the people +gathered so rapidly about me at <i>Moret</i>, +three leagues from <i>Fontainbleau</i>, while I +stopped only to buy a loaf, that I verily believe +every man, woman, and child, except +the sick and aged, were paying their respects +to my little groom; all infinitely delighted; +for none offered the least degree +of rudeness.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXII.</p> + +<p>The French never give coffee, tea, or any +refreshment, except upon particular occasions, +to their morning or evening visitors.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXIII.</p> + +<p>When the weather is cold, the fire +small, and a large company, some young +Frenchman shuts the whole circle from receiving +any benefit from it, by placing +himself just before it, laying his sword +genteely over his left knee, and flattering +himself, while all the company wish him +at the devil, that the ladies are admiring +his legs: when he has gratified his vanity, +or is thoroughly warm, he sits down, or +goes, and another takes his place. I have +seen this abominable ill-breeding kept up +by a set of <i>accomplished</i> young fops for two +hours together, in exceeding cold weather. +This custom has been transplanted lately +into England.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXIV.</p> + +<p>Jealousy is scarce known in France; by +the time the first child is born, an indifference +generally takes place: the husband +and wife have their separate acquaintance, +and pursue their separate <i>amusements</i>, +undisturbed by domestic squabbles: when +they meet in the evening, it is with perfect +good humour, and in general, perfect good +breeding.—When an English wife plays +truant, she soon becomes abandoned: it is +not so with the French; they preserve appearances +and proper decorum, because +they are seldom attached to any particular +man. While they are at their toilet, they +receive the visits of their male acquaintance, +and he must be a man of uncommon +discernment, who finds out whom it +is she prefers at that time.—In the southern +parts of France, the women are in +general very <i>free</i> and <i>easy</i> indeed.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXV.</p> + +<p>It is seldom that virgins are seduced in +France; the married women are the objects +of the men of gallantry. The seduction +of a young girl is punished with +death; and when they fall, it is generally +into the arms of their confessor,—and that +is seldom disclosed. Auricular confession +is big with many mischiefs, as well as +much good. Where the penitent and the +confessor happen both to be young, he +makes her confess not only all her sins, +but sinful thoughts, and then, I fear he +knows more than his prudence can absolve +<i>decently</i>, and even when the confessor is old, +the penitent may not be out of danger.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXVI.</p> + +<p>Never ask a Frenchman his age; no +question whatever can be more offensive to +him, nor will he ever give you a direct, +though he may a civil answer.—<i>Lewis</i> +the XVth was always asking every man +about him, his age. A King may take +that liberty, and even then, it always gives +pain.—<i>Lewis</i> the XIVth said to <i>Comte de +Grammont</i>, "<i>Je sais votre age, l'Eveque de +Senlis qui a 84 ans, m'a donne pour epoque, +que vous avez etudie ensemble dans la meme +classe</i>." <i>Cet Eveque, Sire</i>, (replied the +<i>Comte,) n'accuse pas juste, car ni lui, ni moi +n'avons jamais Etudie</i>.—Before I knew +how offensive this question was to a +Frenchman, I have had many equivocal +answers,—such as, <i>O! mon dieu</i>, as old +as the town, or, I thank God, I am in +good health, &c.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXVII.</p> + +<p>A modern French author says, that the +French language is not capable of the <i>jeux +de mots</i>. <i>Les jeux de mots</i>, are not, says he, +in the genius <i>de notre langue, qui est grave, +de serieuse</i>. Perhaps it maybe so; but the +language, and the men, are then so different, +that I thought quite otherwise,—though +the following beautiful specimen +of the seriousness of the language ought, +in some measure; to justify his remark:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Un seul est frappé, & tous sont delivrés,</div> +<div class="i0">Dieu frappe sons fils innocent, pour l'amour</div> +<div class="i0">Des hommes coupables, & pardonne aux hommes</div> +<div class="i0">Coupables, pour l'amour de son fils innocent.</div> +</div></div> + + +<p class="center">XXVIII.</p> + +<p>All English women, as well as women of +other nations, prefer France to their own +country; because in France there is much +less restraint on their actions, than there is, +(should I not say, than there <i>was</i>?) in England. +All Englishmen, however, who have +young and beautiful wives, should, if they +are not indifferent about their conduct, avoid +a trip to <i>Paris</i>, &c. tho' it be but for +"<i>a six weeks tour</i>." She must be good +and wise too, if six weeks does not corrupt +her mind and debauch her morals, and +that too by her own sex, which is infinitely +the most dangerous company. A French +woman is as great an adept at laughing an +English-woman into all contempt of fidelity +to her husband, as married English-women +are in general, in preparing them +during their first pregnancy, for the touch +of a man-midwife,—and both from the +same motive; <i>i.e.</i> to do, as they have done, +and bring all the sex upon a level.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXIX.</p> + +<p>The French will not allow their language +to be so difficult to speak properly, as the +English language; and perhaps they are in +the right; for how often do we meet with +Englishmen who speak French perfectly? +how seldom do we hear a Frenchman speak +English without betraying his country by +his pronunciation? It is not so with the +Spaniards; I conversed with two Spaniards +who were never twenty miles from <i>Barcelona</i>, +that spoke English perfectly well.—How, +for instance, shall a Frenchman who +cannot pronounce the English, be able to +understand, (great as the difference is) +what I mean when I say <i>the sun is an hour +high</i>? May he not equally suppose that I +said <i>the sun is in our eye</i>?</p> + + +<p class="center">XXX.</p> + +<p>When you make an agreement with an +<i>aubergiste</i> where you intend to lie, take +care to include beds, rooms, &c. or he will +charge separately for these articles.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXI.</p> + +<p>After all, it must be confessed, that <i>Mons. +Dessein's a l'Hotel d'Angleterre</i> at <i>Calais</i>, +is not only the first inn strangers of fashion +generally go to, but that it is also the first +and best inn in France. <i>Dessein</i> is the decoy-duck, +and ought to have a salary from +the French government: he is always sure +of a good one from the English.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXII.</p> + +<p>In frontier or garrison towns, where they +have a right to examine your baggage, a +twenty-four <i>sols</i> piece, and assuring the officer +that you are a gentleman, and not a +merchant, will carry you through without +delay.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXIII.</p> + +<p>Those who travel post should, before +they set out, put up in parcels the money +for the number of horses they use for one +post, two posts, and a post <i>et demi</i>, adding +to each parcel, that which is intended to +be given to the driver, or drivers, who are +intitled by the King's ordinance to five +<i>sols</i> a post; and if they behave ill, they +should be given no more; when they are +civil, ten or twelve <i>sols</i> a post is sufficient. +If these packets are not prepared, and +properly marked, the traveller, especially +if he is not well acquainted with the money, +cannot count it out while the horses +are changing, from the number of beggars +which surround the carriage and who will +take no denial.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXIV.</p> + +<p>People of rank and condition, either going +to, or coming from the continent, by +writing to <span class="smcap">Peter Fector</span>, Esq; at <i>Dover</i>, +will find him a man of property and character, +on whom they may depend.</p> + + +<p class="center">LASTLY,</p> + +<p>Valetudinarians, or men of a certain +age, who travel into the southern parts of +France, Spain, or Italy, should never omit +to wear either a callico or fine flannel waistcoat +under their shirts: strange as it may +seem to say so, this precaution is more +necessary in the south of France, than in +England. In May last it was so hot at <i>Lyons</i>, +on the side of the streets the sun shone +on, and so cold on the shady side, that +both were intolerable. The air is much +more <i>vif</i> and penetrating in hot climates, +than in cold. A dead dog, thrown into +the streets of Madrid at night, will not +have a bit of flesh upon his bones after it +has been exposed to that keen air twenty-four +hours.</p> + +<p class="center">FINIS.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p class="center">List of possible typos and transcriber changes:</p> + +<p>Ltr. 34 para. 2: monnments [monuments?]</p> + +<p>Several inscriptions were blurred or missing in this source. Educated guesses were made in a few cases.</p> + + +<p>Ltr. 36: This is what was visible to the transcriber:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2"> L DOMIT. DOMITIANI</div> +<div class="i0"> EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM.</div> +<div class="i0"> D PECCO****A VALENTINA M</div> +<div class="i2"> CO*****ENTISSIMA.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Some characters blurred or missing. The full transcription was +entered from other sources.</p> + +<p>Some of this looks wrong--e.g. the third line should probably begin P F, +rather than PE--but it matches the text as printed.</p> + +<p>Ltr. 52 para. 2: Typo: that [than?]</p> + +<p>Ltr. 54 para. 3: Typo: hundry [hungry?]</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 16994-h.txt or 16994-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/9/9/16994">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/9/9/16994</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution.</p> + + + +<pre> +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +<a href="https://gutenberg.org/license">https://gutenberg.org/license)</a>. + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS,' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business—pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby—pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: +https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Each eBook is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's +eBook number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII, +compressed (zipped), HTML and others. + +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks replace the old file and take over +the old filename and etext number. The replaced older file is renamed. +VERSIONS based on separate sources are treated as new eBooks receiving +new filenames and etext numbers. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">https://www.gutenberg.org</a> + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +EBooks posted prior to November 2003, with eBook numbers BELOW #10000, +are filed in directories based on their release date. If you want to +download any of these eBooks directly, rather than using the regular +search system you may utilize the following addresses and just +download by the etext year. + +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/">https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/</a> + + (Or /etext 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99, + 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90) + +EBooks posted since November 2003, with etext numbers OVER #10000, are +filed in a different way. The year of a release date is no longer part +of the directory path. The path is based on the etext number (which is +identical to the filename). The path to the file is made up of single +digits corresponding to all but the last digit in the filename. For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL">https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL</a> + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** +</pre> +</body> +</html> |