diff options
Diffstat (limited to '16672-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/16672-h.htm | 14576 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/fp056.jpg | bin | 0 -> 35570 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/fp062.jpg | bin | 0 -> 34584 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/fp185.jpg | bin | 0 -> 35065 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/fp206.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30169 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/fp232.jpg | bin | 0 -> 37018 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/fp316.jpg | bin | 0 -> 31205 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/frontispiece.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30373 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p003.jpg | bin | 0 -> 34166 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p012.jpg | bin | 0 -> 34891 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p019.png | bin | 0 -> 1174 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p020.png | bin | 0 -> 927 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p030.png | bin | 0 -> 14081 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p049.png | bin | 0 -> 2748 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p079.png | bin | 0 -> 2557 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p089.png | bin | 0 -> 2176 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p110.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27783 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p125.jpg | bin | 0 -> 4448 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p127.png | bin | 0 -> 4076 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p140.png | bin | 0 -> 1151 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p146.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22267 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p155.png | bin | 0 -> 2167 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p185.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27642 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p186.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26409 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p302.png | bin | 0 -> 1396 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16672-h/images/p307.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16429 bytes |
26 files changed, 14576 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/16672-h/16672-h.htm b/16672-h/16672-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bc77cee --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/16672-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,14576 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by David Livingstone</title> +<style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: smaller;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em; + float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em; + font-size: smaller; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;} + + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .bbox {border: solid 2px;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px; font-size: smaller; font-size: smaller;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left; font-size: smaller;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} + .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 4em;} + hr.full { width: 100%; } + pre {font-size: 8pt;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in +Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by +David Livingstone, Edited by Horace Waller</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868</p> +<p>Author: David Livingstone</p> +<p>Editor: Horace Waller</p> +<p>Release Date: September 7, 2005 [eBook #16672]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2), 1866-1868***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Steven Gibbs<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (https://www.pgdp.net/)</h3> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> + <h2><a name="Page_-15" id="Page_-15"></a>THE LAST JOURNALS</h2> + + <h3>OF</h3> + + <h1>DAVID LIVINGSTONE,</h1> + + <h3>IN CENTRAL AFRICA,</h3> + + <h4>FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.</h4> + + <h5>CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OF</h5> + + <h3>HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS,</h3> + + <h5>OBTAINED FROM</h5> + + <h4>HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI,</h4> + + <h2>BY HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,<br /> + <span style="font-size: smaller">RECTOR OF TWYWELL, + NORTHAMPTON.</span></h2> + + <h4>IN TWO VOLUMES.—VOL. I.<br /> + <span style="font-size: smaller">[1866–1868]</span></h4> + + <h5>WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS.</h5> + + <h4>LONDON:<br /> + JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br /> + 1874.</h4> + + <p><a name="Page_-14" id="Page_-14"></a></p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a> <img src= + "images/frontispiece.jpg" width="404" height="514" alt= + "DAVID LIVINGSTONE" title="DAVID LIVINGSTONE" /><br /> + <b>DAVID + LIVINGSTONE</b> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="Page_-13" id="Page_-13"></a><a name="INTRODUCTION" + id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> + + <p>In the midst of the universal sorrow caused by the + intelligence that Dr. Livingstone had lost his life at the + furthest point to which he had penetrated in his search for the + true sources of the Nile, a faint hope was indulged that some of + his journals might survive the disaster: this hope, I rejoice to + say, has been realized beyond the most sanguine expectations.</p> + + <p>It is due, in the first place, to his native attendants, whose + faithfulness has placed his last writings at our disposal, and + also to the reader, before he launches forth upon a series of + travels and scientific geographical records of the most + extraordinary character, to say that in the following narrative + of seven years' continuous work and new discovery <i>no break + whatever occurs</i>.</p> + + <p>We have not to deplore the loss, by accident or carelessness, + of a single entry, from the time of Livingstone's departure from + Zanzibar in the beginning of 1866 to the day when his note-book + dropped from his hand in the village of Ilala at the end of + April, 1873.</p> + + <p>I trust it will not be uninteresting if I preface the history + with a few words on the nature of these journals and writings as + they have come to hand from Central Africa.</p> + + <p>It will be remembered that when Mr. Stanley returned to + England in 1872, Dr. Livingstone entrusted to his care a very + large Letts' diary, sealed up and consigned to the safe keeping + of his daughter, Miss Agnes Livingstone. Upon the confirmation of + the worst news, this book was examined and found to contain a + considerable portion of the notes which her father made during + his travels previous to the time of Mr.<a name="Page_-12" id= + "Page_-12"></a> Stanley's meeting him.</p> + + <p>The Doctor's custom was always to have metallic note-books in + use, in which the day's jottings were recorded. When time and + opportunity served, the larger volume was posted up with + scrupulous care.</p> + + <p>It seems, however, that in the last three or four years of his + life this excellent rule had to give way to the toils of travel + and the exhaustion of most distressing illnesses. Whilst in the + Manyuema country he ran out of note-books, ink, and pencils, and + had to resort to shifts which at first made it a very debateable + point whether the most diligent attempt at deciphering would + suceeed after all. Such pocket-books as remained at this period + of his travels were utilized to the last inch of paper. In some + of them we find lunar observations, the names of rivers, and the + heights of hills advancing towards the middle from one end, + whilst from the other the itinerary grows day by day, + interspersed with map routes of the march, botanical notes, and + carefully made drawings. But in the mean time the middle portion + of the book was filling up with calculations, private memoranda, + words intended for vocabularies, and extracts from books, whilst + here and there the stain of a pressed flower causes + indistinctness; yet the thread of the narrative runs throughout. + Noting but his invariable habit of constantly repeating the month + and year obviates hopeless confusion. Nor is this all; for + pocket-books gave out at last, and old newspapers, yellow with + African damp, were sewn together, and his notes were written + across the type with a substitute for ink made from the juice of + a tree. To Miss Livingstone and to the Rev. C.A. Alington I am + very much indebted for help in the laborious task of deciphering + this portion of the Doctor's journals. Their knowledge of his + handwriting, their perseverance, coupled with good eyes and a + strong magnifying-glass, at last made their task a complete + success.</p> + + <p>In comparing this great mass of material with the journal + brought<a name="Page_-11" id="Page_-11"></a> home by Mr. Stanley, + one finds that a great deal of most interesting matter can be + added. It would seem that in the hurry of writing and copying + despatches previous to his companion's departure, the Doctor + rapidly entered up as much from his note-books as time and space + permitted.</p> + + <p>Most fortunately, he still carried the greater part of these + original notes till the time of his death, so that they were + forthcoming when his effects were subsequently saved.</p> + + <p>This brings us to the second instalment of the journals, for + we have thus acknowledged the first to have reached us on Mr. + Stanley's return.</p> + + <p>When the battered tin travelling-case, which was with + Livingstone to the last, was opened at the Foreign Office in the + spring of this year, not only were these valuable papers + disclosed which I have mentioned, but it was found also that + Livingstone had kept a copious journal during his stay at + Unyanyembé in some copy-books, and that when his stock of + note-books was replenished a daily record of his subsequent + travels had been made.</p> + + <p>It was with fear and trembling that one looked to see whether + all had been saved or only part, but with satisfaction and + thankfulness I have subsequently discovered that his men + preserved every single line, besides his maps, which now come to + light for the first time.</p> + + <p>Thus much on the material of the diaries: it remains to say a + few words on the Map which accompanies these journals. It has + been compiled from Dr. Livingstone's original drawings and + note-books, with the corrections and additions he made from time + to time as the work of exploration progressed, and the details of + physical geography became clearer to him. The compiler, Mr. John + Bolton<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, <a name="Page_-10" id= + "Page_-10"></a>implicitly following the original outline of the + drawing as far as possible, has honestly endeavoured to give such + a rendering of the entire work, as the Doctor would have done had + he lived to return home, and superintend the construction; and I + take this opportunity of expressing my sincere gratification that + Mr. Bolton's rare technical skill, scientific knowledge, and + unwearying labour have been available for the purpose.</p> + + <p>Amongst almost the last words that Livingstone wrote, I find + an unfinished letter to myself, in which he gives me very clear + and explicit directions concerning the geographical notes he had + previously sent home, and I am but carrying out the sacred duty + which is attached to a last wish when I call attention to the + fact, that he particularly desired in this letter that <i>no + positions gathered from his observations for latitude and + longitude, nor for the levels of the Lakes, &c., should be + considered correct till Sir Thomas Maclear had examined them</i>. + The position of Casembe's town, and of a point near + Pambetté at the S.E., and of Lake Liemba (Tanganyika), + have been computed and corrected by Sir T. Maclear and Dr. Mann. + The observations for latitude were taken at short intervals, and + where it has been possible to test them they have been found very + correct, but I repeat that until the imprimatur of his old friend + at the Cape of Good Hope stands over the whole of Livingstone's + work, the map must be accepted as open to further + corrections.</p> + + <p>The journey from Kabwabwata to Mparru has been inserted + <i>entirely</i> from notes, as the traveller was too ill to mark + the route: this is the only instance in all his wanderings where + he failed to give some indication on his map of the nature of the + ground over which he passed. The journey front Mikindany Bay to + Lake Nyassa has also been laid down from his journal and + latitudes in consequence of the section of this part of his route + (which he left at Ujiji) not having <a name="Page_-9" id= + "Page_-9"></a>arrived in England at this date.<a name= + "FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" + class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It will be observed that the outline of + Lake Nyassa differs from that on any published map: it has been + drawn from the original exploratory survey of its southern shores + made by Dr. Livingstone in 1861-3. For some reason this original + plan was not adhered to by a former draughtsman, but the Lake has + here been restored to a more accurate bearing and position.</p> + + <p>How often shall we see in the pages of this concluding chapter + of his life, that unwavering determination which was + pre-eminently the great characteristic of David Livingstone!</p> + + <p>Naturally endowed with unusual endurance, able to concentrate + faculties of no ordinary kind upon whatever he took in hand, and + with a dread of exaggeration which at times almost militated + against the importance of some of his greatest discoveries, it + may be doubted if ever Geographer went forth strengthened with so + much true power. Let us add to these a sincere trust that + slavery, the "great open sore of the world," as he called it, + might under God's good guidance receive healing at his hands; a + fervent hope that others would follow him after he had removed + those difficulties which are comprised in a profound ignorance of + the physical features of a new country, and we have the marching + orders of him who left us in August 1865 never to return + alive.</p> + + <p>Privileged to enjoy his near personal friendship for a + considerable period in Africa, and also at home, it has been easy + to trace—more especially from correspondence with him of + late years—that Livingstone wanted just some such <a name= + "Page_-8" id="Page_-8"></a>gigantic problem as that which he + attacked at the last to measure his strength against: that he + finally overrated and overtaxed it I think all must admit.</p> + + <p>He had not sufficiently allowed for an old wound which his + constitution received whilst battling with dysentery and fever, + on his celebrated journey across Africa, and this finally sapped + his vital powers, and, through the irritation of exhaustion, + insidiously clouded much of his happiness.</p> + + <p>Many of his old friends were filled with anxiety when they + found that he intended to continue the investigation of the Nile + sources, for the letters sent home by Mr. Stanley raised the + liveliest apprehensions, which, alas! soon proved themselves well + grounded.</p> + + <p>The reader must be warned that, however versed in books of + African travel he may be, the very novelty of his situation + amongst these pages will render him liable perhaps to a danger + which a timely word may avert. Truly it may be said he has an + <i>embarras de richesses!</i> To follow an explorer who by his + individual exertions has filled up a great space in the map of + Africa, who has not only been the first to set foot on the shores + of vast inland seas, but who, with the simple appliances of his + bodily stature for a sounding pole and his stalwart stride for a + measuring tape, lays down new rivers by the hundreds, is a task + calculated to stagger him. It may be provoking to find + Livingstone busily engaged in bargaining for a canoe upon the + shores of Bangweolo, much as he would have secured a boat on his + own native Clyde; but it was not in his nature to be subject to + those paroxysms in which travellers too often indite their + discoveries and descriptions.</p> + + <p>At the same time these journals will be found to contain + innumerable notes on the habits of animals, birds, and fishes, + many of them probably new species, and on phenomena in every + direction which the keen eye searched out as the great traveller + moved amongst some of the grandest scenes of this beautiful + world: it may be doubted if ever eye <a name="Page_-7" id= + "Page_-7"></a>so keen was backed by so much perseverance to + shield it from a mere superficial habit of noticing. Let his + adventures speak for themselves.</p> + + <p>Amongst the greatest facts recorded here the Geographer will + perceive that the Doctor has placed it beyond doubt that Lake + Nyassa belongs to a totally distinct system of waters to that + which holds Lake Tanganyika, and the rivers running north and + west. He was too sagacious to venture the surmise that Tanganyika + has a subterranean outlet without having duly weighed the + probabilities in the scale with his elaborate observations: the + idea gathers force when we remember that in the case of limestone + cliffs, water so often succeeds in breaking bounds by boring + through the solid rock. No more interesting problem is left to + solve, and we shall yet learn whether, through the caverns of + Western Kabogo, this Lake adds its waters to the vast northerly + flow of rivers we now read of for the first time, and which are + undoubtedly amongst the largest in the world.</p> + + <p>I cannot close these remarks without stating how much obliged + I am to Mr. James Young, F.R.S., of Kelly, for having ensured the + presence of the Doctor's men, Chuma and Susi. Ever ready to serve + his old friend Livingstone, he took care that they should be at + my elbow so long as I required them to help me amidst the pile of + MSS. and maps. Their knowledge of the countries they travelled in + is most remarkable, and from constantly aiding their master by + putting questions to the natives respecting the course of rivers, + &c., I found them actual geographers of no mean attainments. + In one instance, when in doubt concerning a particular watershed, + to my surprise Susi returned a few hours afterwards with a plan + of the whole system of rivers in the region under examination, + and I found his sketch tally well with the Doctor's map. Known to + me previously for years on the Zambesi and Shiré it was a + pleasure to have them with me for four months. Amongst other good + <a name="Page_-6" id="Page_-6"></a>services they have aided the + artist by reproducing the exact facsimile of the hut in which Dr. + Livingstone expired, besides making models of the "kitanda" on + which he was carried, and of the village in which his body lay + for fourteen days.</p> + + <p>I need not add what ready and valuable assistance I have + derived from the Doctor's old companion Dr. Kirk wherever I have + found it necessary to apply to him; some of the illustrations are + more particularly owing to his kindness.</p> + + <p>It only remains to say that it has been thought advisable to + retain all the strictly scientific matter found in Dr. + Livingstone's journals for future publication. When one sees that + a register of the daily rainfall was kept throughout, that the + temperature was continually recorded, and that barometrical and + hypsometrical observations were made with unflagging thoroughness + of purpose year in and year out, it is obvious that an + accumulated mass of information remains for the meteorologist to + deal with separately, which alone must engross many months of + labour.</p> + + <p>A constant sense of great responsibility has been mine + throughout this task, for one cannot doubt that much of the + future welfare of distant tribes and races depends upon + Livingstone obtaining through these records a distinct hearing + for their woes, their misery, and above all for their willingness + to welcome men drawn towards them by motives like his.</p> + + <p>At the same time memory and affection have not failed to bring + back vividly the man, the traveller, and the friend. May that + which he has said in his journals suffer neither loss of interest + nor depth of meaning at the compiler's hands.</p> + + <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">HORACE WALLER.</span><br /> + <br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">TWYWELL RECTORY, + THRAPSTON,</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>Nov. 2, + 1874.</i></span><br /></p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Attached + to Mr. Stanford's staff.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> In + February last this section of the map (as we suppose), + together with some of the Doctor's papers, was sent off from + Ujiji by Lieutenant Cameron. Nothing, however, had arrived on + the 22nd September at Zanzibar, and H.M. Consul, Captain + Prideaux, entertained serious doubts at that time whether + they would ever come to hand. All Livingstone's journals were + saved through other instrumentality, as I have shown.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + + <p><a href="#INTRODUCTION"><b>INTRODUCTION.</b></a></p> + + <p><a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</b></a></p> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the + sultan. Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. + Preparations for starting to the interior. Embarkation in + H.M.S. <i>Penguin</i> and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. + Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy at travelling once more. Trouble + with sepoys. Camels attacked by tsetse fly, and by sepoys. + Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies. The Makondé. Lake + Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Effect of <i>Pioneer's</i> former visit. The poodle + Chitané. Result of tsetse bites. Death of camels and + buffaloes. Disaffection of followers. Disputed right of ferry. + Mazitu raids. An old friend. Severe privations. The River + Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher. Desolation. Tattooing. + Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death of the Nassick boy, + Richard. A sad reminiscence.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation. + Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of + Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. + Mtarika's. Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. + Dismay of slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyau + metropolis. Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores + stolen cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and + healthiness of climate. The Waiyau people and their + peculiarities. Regrets at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's + plans.</p> + </div> + + <p><a name="Page_-4" id="Page_-4"></a><a href= + "#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. + The Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for + the Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The + Manganja or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to + procure passage across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English + amongst slavers. Lake shore. Blue ink. Chitané changes + colour. The Nsaka fish. Makalaosé drinks beer. The + Sanjika fish. London antiquities. Lake rivers. Mukaté's. + Lake Pamalombé. Mponda's. A slave gang. Wikatani + discovers his relatives and remains.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The + discomfited chief. Reaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. + Description of Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the + Johanna men desert. Reaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing + the Doctor once more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his + experience of Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. + Kimsusa solves the transport difficulty nobly. Another old + fishing acquaintance. Description of the people and country on + the west of the Lake. The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An + African Sir Colin Campbell. Milandos.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by + Mazitu. Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the + watershed between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive + iron-workings. An old Nimrod. The Bua River. Lovely scenery. + Difficulties of transport. Chilobé. An African + Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. + Rains set in. Arrives at the Loangwa.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. + Great hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of + goats. Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu + again. Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim + of the great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal + gives <a name="Page_-3" id="Page_-3"></a>out. Escape from a + Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambezé. Death of + Chitané. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of + medicine chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambezé. + Reaches Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. + Sends off letters. Chitapangwa and his people. + Complications.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika. + Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill + with fever. Threatening attitude of Chibué's people. + Continued illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. + Extreme beauty of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. + Leaves the Lake. Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between + Arabs and Nsama. Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's + letter to principal Arab, Hamees. The war in Itawa. Geography + of the Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the + Koran. Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo, to the eastward, and + their chief, Meréré. Hamees sets out against + Nsama. Tedious sojourn. Departure for Ponda. Native + cupping.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. + Curious spider. Reaches the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. + Hamees marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride. + Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero. + Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders + on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake. + Information concerning the Chambezé and Luapula. Hears + of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe + apprised of Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib. + Lakelet Mofwé. Arrives at Casembe's town.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Grand reception of the traveller. Casembe and his wife. Long + stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord + Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of + 1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The + River Luao. Visits Kabwabwata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin + Salleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground + dwellings.</p> + </div> + + <p><a name="Page_-2" id="Page_-2"></a><a href= + "#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long + imprisonment. Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning + dreams. News of Lake Chowambé. Life of the Arab slavers. + The Katanga gold supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. + Syde bin Habib. Birthday, 19th March, 1868. Hostility of + Mpwéto. Contemplates visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. + Men desert. The shores of Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Return to + Casembe's. Obstructiveness of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of + Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major Monteiro. The line of Casembes. + Casembe explains the connection of the Lakes and the Luapula. + Queen Moäri. Arab sacrifice. Kapika gets rid of his + wife.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER XII.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th + June, 1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River + Luongo. Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake + Bemba changed to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa + people. Kombokombo's stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers + Lake Bangweolo on 18th July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. + Description of the Lake. Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for + Lifungé Island. Immense size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala + Island. Strange dream. Fears of canoe men. Return to shore. + March back. Sends letters. Meets Banyamwezi. Reviews recent + explorations at length. Disturbed state of country.</p> + </div> + + <p><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII.</b></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed. + Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves + escape. Enormous collection of tusks. Ill. Theory of the Nile + sources. Tribute to Miss Tinné. Notes on climate. + Separation of Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on + Victoria Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad + Bogharib. Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed + attack. A parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the + Imbozhwa country. Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's + brother. Singular custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. + Rumour of Baker's Expedition. Christmas dinners.</p> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a><a name= + "Page_-1" id="Page_-1"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>[DR. LIVINGSTONE, though no artist, had acquired a practice + of making rude sketches of scenes and objects, which have + furnished material for the Engravers in the Illustrations for + this book.]</p> + </div> + + <h4 style="text-align: left">Full-page Illustrations.</h4> + + <p><a href="#frontispiece">1.</a> PORTRAIT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE. + (From a Photograph by ANNAN)</p> + + <p><a href="#fp056">2.</a> SLAVERS REVENGING THEIR LOSSES</p> + + <p><a href="#fp062">3.</a> SLAVES ABANDONED</p> + + <p><a href="#fp185">4.</a> CHITAPANGWA RECEIVING DR. + LIVINGSTONE</p> + + <p><a href="#fp206">5.</a> THE VILLAGE ON LAKE + LIEMBA—TANGANYIKA</p> + + <p><a href="#fp232">6.</a> THE ARRIVAL OF HAMEES' BRIDE</p> + + <p><a href="#fp316">7.</a> DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO</p> + + <h4 style="text-align: left">Smaller Illustrations.</h4> + + <p><a href="#p003">1.</a> DR. LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE, ZANZIBAR</p> + + <p><a href="#p012">2.</a> DHOW USED FOR TRANSPORT OF DR. + LIVINGSTONE'S CAMELS</p> + + <p><a href="#p019">3.</a> A THORN-CLIMBER</p> + + <p><a href="#p020">4.</a> TOMAHAWK AND AXE</p> + + <p><a href="#p030">5.</a> CARVED DOOR, ZANZIBAR</p> + + <p><a href="#p049">6.</a> TATTOO OF MATAMBWÉ</p> + + <p><a href="#p079">7.</a> IMITATION OF BASKET-WORK IN POTTERY</p> + + <p><a href="#p089">8.</a> DIGGING-STICK WEIGHTED WITH ROUND + STONE</p> + + <p><a href="#p110">9.</a> MANGANJA AND MACHINGA WOMEN</p> + + <p><a name="Page_0" id="Page_0" href="#p125">10.</a> TATOO ON + WOMEN</p> + + <p><a href="#p125">11.</a> CARVED STOOL MADE OF A SINGLE WOODEN + BLOCK</p> + + <p><a href="#p140">12.</a> WOMEN'S TEETH HOLLOWED OUT</p> + + <p><a href="#p146">13.</a> MODE OF FORGING HOES</p> + + <p><a href="#p155">14.</a> MALLET FOR SEPARATING FIBRES OF + BARK</p> + + <p><a href="#p185">15.</a> THE CHIEF CHITAPANGWA</p> + + <p><a href="#p186">16.</a> CHITAPANGWA'S WIVES</p> + + <p><a href="#p302">17.</a> FILED TEETH OF QUEEN MOÄH</p> + + <p><a href="#p307">18.</a> A FOREST GRAVE</p> + + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><a name="Page_1" id= + "Page_1"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the + Sultan. Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. + Preparations for starting to the interior. Embarkation in + H.M.S. <i>Penguin</i> and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. + Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy at travelling once more. Trouble + with sepoys. Camels attacked by tsetse fly, and by sepoys. + Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies. The Makondé. Lake + Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.</p> + </div> + + <p>ZANZIBAR, <i>28th January, 1866.</i>—After a passage of + twenty-three days from Bombay we arrived at this island in the + <i>Thule</i>, which was one of Captain Sherard Osborne's late + Chinese fleet, and now a present from the Bombay Government to + the Sultan of Zanzibar. I was honoured with the commission to + make the formal presentation, and this was intended by H.E. the + Governor-in-Council to show in how much estimation I was held, + and thereby induce the Sultan to forward my enterprise. The + letter to his Highness was a commendatory epistle in my favour, + for which consideration on the part of Sir Bartle Frere I feel + deeply grateful. It runs as follows:—</p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>TO HIS HIGHNESS SEJUEL MAJID, SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR.</p> + + <p>(<i>Copy.</i>)</p> + + <p>"YOUR HIGHNESS,—I trust that this will find you in the + enjoyment of health and happiness.</p> + + <p>"<a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>I have requested my + friend, Dr. David Livingstone, who is already personally well + and favourably known to your Highness, to convey to you the + assurance of the continual friendship and goodwill of Her + Majesty's Government in India.</p> + + <p>"Your Highness is already aware of the benevolent objects of + Dr. Livingstone's life and labours, and I feel assured that + your Highness will continue to him the favour and protection + which you have already shown to him on former occasions, and + that your Highness will direct every aid to be given him within + your Highness's dominions which may tend to further the + philanthropic designs to which he has devoted himself, and + which, as your Highness is aware, are viewed with the warmest + interest by Her Majesty's Government both in India and + England.</p> + + <p>"I trust your Highness will favour me with continued + accounts of your good health and welfare.</p> + + <p>"I remain, your Highness's sincere friend,</p> + + <p>(Signed) "H.B.E. FRERE.</p> + + <p>"BOMBAY CASTLE, <i>2nd January, 1866.</i>"</p> + </div> + + <p>When we arrived Dr. Seward, the Acting Consul, was absent at + the Seychelles on account of serious failure of health: Mr. + Schultz, however, was representing him, but he too was at the + time away. Dr. Seward was expected back daily, and he did arrive + on the 31st. I requested a private interview with the Sultan, and + on the following day (29th) called and told him the nature of my + commission to his Highness. He was very gracious, and seemed + pleased with the gift, as well he might, for the <i>Thule</i> is + fitted up in the most gorgeous manner. We asked a few days to put + her in perfect order, and this being the Ramadân, or + fasting month, he was all the more willing to defer a visit to + the vessel.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>Dr. Seward arranged to have + an audience with the Sultan, to carry out his instructions, which + were to present me in a formal manner; Captain Bradshaw of the + <i>Wasp</i>, with Captain Leatham of the <i>Vigilant</i>, and + Bishop Tozer, were to accompany us in full dress, but the Sultan + had a toothache and gumboil, and could not receive us; he, + however, placed one of his houses at my disposal, and appointed a + man who speaks English to furnish board for my men and me, and + also for Captain Brebner, of the <i>Thule</i>, and his men.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p003" id="p003"></a> <img src="images/p003.jpg" width= + "500" height="312" alt="Livingstone's House, Zanzibar." title= + "Livingstone's House, Zanzibar." /><br /> + <b>Livingstone's House, + Zanzibar.</b> + </div> + + <p><i>6th February, 1866.</i>—The Sultan being still unable + to come, partly on account of toothache and partly on account of + Ramadân, he sent his commodore, Captain Abdullah, to + receive the <i>Thule</i>. When the English flag was hauled down + in the <i>Thule</i>, it went up to the mainmast of the + <i>Iskander Shah</i>, and was saluted by twenty-one guns; then + the <i>Wasp</i> saluted the Arab flag with an equal number, which + honour being duly acknowledged by a second royal salute from the + <i>Iskander Shah</i>, Captain Abdullah's frigate, the ceremony + ended.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>Next day, the 7th, we were + received by the Sultan, and through his interpreter, I told him + that his friend, the Governor of Bombay, had lately visited the + South Mahratta Princes, and had pressed on them the necessity of + education; the world was moving on, and those who neglected to + acquire knowledge would soon find that power slipped through + their fingers, and that the Bombay Government, in presenting his + Highness with a portion of steam power, showed its desire to + impart one of the greatest improvements of modern times, not + desiring to monopolize power, but hoping to lift up others with + themselves, and I wished him to live a hundred years and enjoy + all happiness. The idea was borrowed partly from Sir Bartle + Frere's addresses, because I thought it would have more weight if + he heard a little from that source than if it emanated from + myself. He was very anxious that Captain Brebner and his men, in + returning to India, should take a passage from him in the + <i>Nadir Shah</i>, one of his men-of-war, and though he had + already placed his things aboard the <i>Vigilant</i>, to proceed + to Seychelles, and thence to Bombay, we persuaded Captain Brebner + to accept his Highness's hospitality. He had evidently set his + heart on sending them back with suitable honours, and an hour + after consent was given to go by the <i>Nadir Shah</i>, he signed + an order for the money to fit her out.</p> + + <p><i>11th February, 1866.</i>—One of the foremost subjects + that naturally occupied my mind here was the sad loss of the + Baron van der Decken, on the River Juba, or Aljib. The first + intimation of the unfortunate termination of his explorations was + the appearance of Lieutenant von Schich at this place, who had + left without knowing whether his leader were dead or alive, but + an attack had been made on the encampment which had been planned + after the steamer struck the rocks and filled, and two of the + Europeans were killed. The attacking party came from the + direction in which the Baron and Dr. Link went, and three men of + note <a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>in it were slain. Von + Schich went back from Zanzibar to Brava to ascertain the fate of + the Baron, and meanwhile several native sailors from Zanzibar had + been allowed to escape from the scene of confusion to Brava.</p> + + <p><i>18th February, 1866.</i>—All the Europeans went to + pay visits of congratulation to his Highness the Sultan upon the + conclusion of the Ramadân, when sweetmeats were placed + before us. He desired me to thank the Governor of Bombay for his + magnificent gift, and to state that although he would like to + have me always with him, yet he would show me the same favour in + Africa which he had done here: he added that the <i>Thule</i> was + at my service to take me to the Rovuma whenever I wished to + leave. I replied that nothing had been wanting on his part; he + had done more than I expected, and I was sure that his Excellency + the Governor would be delighted to hear that the vessel promoted + his health and prosperity; nothing would delight him more than + this. He said that he meant to go out in her on Wednesday next + (20th): Bishop Tozer, Captain Fraser, Dr. Steere, and all the + English were present. The sepoys came in and did obeisance; and I + pointed out the Nassick lads as those who had been rescued from + slavery, educated, and sent back to their own country by the + Governor. Surely he must see that some people in the world act + from other than selfish motives.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon Sheikh Sulieman, his secretary, came with a + letter for the Governor, to be conveyed by Lieutenant Brebner, + I.N., in the <i>Nadir Shah</i>, which is to sail to-morrow. He + offered money to the lieutenant, but this could not be heard of + for a moment.</p> + + <p>The translation of the letter is as follows, and is an answer + to that which I brought.<a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a></p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY.</p> + + <p>[After compliments.]</p> + + <p>"... The end of my desire is to know ever that your + Excellency's health is good. As for me—your + friend—I am very well.</p> + + <p>"Your honoured letter borne by Dr. Livingstone duly reached + me, and all that you said about him I understood.</p> + + <p>"I will show him respect, give him honour, and help him in + all his affairs; and that I have already done this, I trust he + will tell you.</p> + + <p>"I hope you will let me rest in your heart, and that you + will send me many letters.</p> + + <p>"If you need anything I shall be glad, and will give it.</p> + + <p>"Your sincere friend,</p> + + <p>"MAJID BIN SAID.</p> + + <p>"Dated 2nd Shaul, 1282 (18th February, 1866)."</p> + </div> + + <p><i>2nd March, 1866.</i>—A northern dhow came in with + slaves; when this was reported to the Sultan he ordered it to be + burned, and we saw this done from the window of the Consulate; + but he has very little power over Northern Arabs. He has shown a + little vigour of late. He wished to raise a revenue by a charge + of 10 per cent. on all articles brought into town for sale, but + this is clearly contrary to treaty, which provides that no + monopoly shall be permitted, and no dues save that of 5 per cent. + import duty. The French Consul bullies him: indeed the French + system of dealing with the natives is well expressed by that + word; no wonder they cannot gain influence among them: the + greatest power they exercise is by lending their flag to slaving + dhows, so that it covers that nefarious traffic.</p> + + <p>The stench arising from a mile and a half or two square miles + of exposed sea beach, which is the general depository of the + filth of the town, is quite horrible. At night it is <a name= + "Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>so gross or crass one might cut out a + slice and manure a garden with it: it might be called Stinkibar + rather than Zanzibar. No one can long enjoy good health here.</p> + + <p>On visiting the slave-market I found about 300 slaves exposed + for sale, the greater part of whom came from Lake Nyassa and the + Shiré River; I am so familiar with the peculiar faces and + markings or tattooings, that I expect them to recognize me. + Indeed one woman said that she had heard of our passing up Lake + Nyassa in a boat, but she did not see me: others came from + Chipéta, S.W. of the Lake. All who have grown up seem + ashamed at being hawked about for sale. The teeth are examined, + the cloth lifted up to examine the lower limbs, and a stick is + thrown for the slave to bring, and thus exhibit his paces. Some + are dragged through the crowd by the hand, and the price called + out incessantly: most of the purchasers were Northern Arabs and + Persians. This is the period when the Sultan's people may not + carry slaves coastwise; but they simply cannot, for the wind is + against them. Many of the dhows leave for Madagascar, and thence + come back to complete their cargoes.</p> + + <p>The Arabs are said to treat their slaves kindly, and this also + may be said of native masters; the reason is, master and slave + partake of the general indolence, but the lot of the slave does + not improve with the general progress in civilization. While no + great disparity of rank exists, his energies are little tasked, + but when society advances, wants multiply; and to supply these + the slave's lot grows harder. The distance between master and man + increases as the lust of gain is developed, hence we can hope for + no improvement in the slave's condition, unless the master + returns to or remains in barbarism.</p> + + <p><i>6th March, 1866.</i>—Rains have begun now that the + sun is overhead. We expect the <i>Penguin</i> daily to come from + Johanna, and take us to the Rovuma. It is an unwholesome place; + <a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>six of my men have fever; few + retain health long, and considering the lowness of the island, + and the absence of sanitary regulations in the town, it is not to + be wondered at. The Sultan has little power, being only the + successor to the captain of the horde of Arabs who came down and + overran the island and maritime coasts of the adjacent continent. + He is called only Said or Syed, never Sultan; and they can boast + of choosing a new one if he does not suit them. Some coins were + found in digging here which have Cufic inscriptions, and are + about 900 years old. The island is low; the highest parts may not + be more than 150 feet above the sea; it is of a coral formation, + with sandstone conglomerate. Most of the plants are African, but + clove-trees, mangoes, and cocoa-nut groves give a luxuriant South + Sea Island look to the whole scenery.</p> + + <p>We visited an old man to-day, the richest in Zanzibar, who is + to give me letters to his friends at Tanganyika, and I am trying + to get a depôt of goods for provisions formed there, so + that when I reach it I may not be destitute.</p> + + <p><i>18th March, 1866.</i>—I have arranged with Koorje, a + Banian, who farms the custom-house revenue here, to send a supply + of beads, cloth, flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on Lake + Tanganyika. The Arab there, with whom one of Koorje's people will + remain in charge of the goods, is called Thani bin Suelim.</p> + + <p>Yesterday we went to take leave of the Sultan, and to thank + him for all his kindness to me and my men, which has indeed been + very great. He offered me men to go with me, and another letter + if I wished it. He looks very ill.</p> + + <p>I have received very great kindness during my stay from Dr. + and Mrs. Seward. They have done everything for me in their power: + may God Almighty return it all abundantly into their bosoms, in + the way that He best can. Dr. Seward's views of the policy + pursued here I have no doubt <a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>are + the right ones; in fact, the only ones which can be looked back + to with satisfaction, or that have probability of success among a + race of Pariah Arabs.</p> + + <p>The <i>Penguin</i> came a few days ago, and Lieutenant + Garforth in command agrees to take me down to the Rovuma River, + and land me there. I have a dhow to take my animals: six camels, + three buffaloes, and a calf, two mules, and four donkeys. I have + thirteen Sepoys, ten Johanna men, nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga + men, and two Wayaus, Wekatani and Chuma.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" + id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class= + "fnanchor">[3]</a></p> + + <p>[It may be well to point out that several of these men had + previously been employed by Dr. Livingstone on the Zambesi and + Shiré; thus Musa, the Johanna man, was a sailor on the + <i>Lady Nyassa</i>, whilst Susi and Amoda were engaged at + Shupanga to cut wood for the <i>Pioneer</i>. The two Waiyau lads, + Wakatani and Chuma, were liberated from the slavers by the Doctor + and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861, and lived for three years with the + Mission party at Chibisa's before they were engaged by + Livingstone. The Nassick lads were entire strangers, and were + trained in India.]</p> + + <p><i>19th March, 1866.</i>—We start this morning at 10 + A.M. I trust that the Most High may prosper me in this work, + granting me influence in the eyes of the heathen, and helping me + to make my intercourse beneficial to them.</p> + + <p><i>22nd March, 1866.</i>—We reached Rovuma Bay to-day, + and anchored about two miles from the mouth of the river, in five + fathoms. I went up the left bank to see if the gullies which + formerly ran into the bay had altered, so as to allow camels to + cross them: they seemed to have become <a name="Page_10" id= + "Page_10"></a>shallower. There was no wind for the dhow, and as + for the man-of-war towing her, it was out of the question. On the + 23rd the cutter did try to tow the dhow, but without success, as + a strong tide runs constantly out of the river at this season. A + squall came up from the S.E., which would have taken the dhow in, + but the master was on board the <i>Penguin</i>, and said he had + no large sail. I got him off to his vessel, but the wind died + away before we could reach the mouth of the river.</p> + + <p><i>24th March, 1866.</i>—I went to the dhow, and there + being no wind I left orders with the captain to go up the right + bank should a breeze arise. Mr. Fane, midshipman, accompanied me + up the left bank above, to see if we could lead the camels along + in the water. Near the point where the river first makes a little + bend to the north, we landed and found three formidable gullies, + and jungle so thick with bush, date-palms, twining bamboo, and + hooked thorns, that one could scarcely get along. Further inland + it was sticky mud, thickly planted over with mangrove roots and + gullies in whose soft banks one sank over the ankles. No camels + could have moved, and men with extreme difficulty might struggle + through; but we never could have made an available road. We came + to a she-hippopotamus lying in a ditch, which did not cover her; + Mr. Fane fired into her head, and she was so upset that she + nearly fell backward in plunging up the opposite bank: her calf + was killed, and was like sucking-pig, though in appearance as + large as a full-grown sow.</p> + + <p>We now saw that the dhow had a good breeze, and she came up + along the right bank and grounded at least a mile from the spot + where the mangroves ceased. The hills, about two hundred feet + high, begin about two or three miles above that, and they looked + invitingly green and cool. My companion and I went from the dhow + inland, to see if the mangroves gave way, to a more walkable + country, but the swamp covered over thickly with mangroves only + became worse the <a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>farther we + receded from the river. The whole is flooded at high tides, and + had we landed all the men we should have been laid up with fever + ere we could have attained the higher land, which on the right + bank bounds the line of vision, and the first part of which lies + so near. I thought I had better land on the sand belt on the left + of Rovuma Bay, and then explore and get information from the + natives, none of whom had as yet come near us, so I ordered the + dhow to come down to the spot next day, and went on board the + <i>Penguin</i>. Lieutenant Garforth was excessively kind, and + though this is his best time for cruising in the North, he most + patiently agreed to wait and help me to land.</p> + + <p><i>24th March, 1866.</i>—During the night it occurred to + me that we should be in a mess if after exploration and + information from the natives we could find no path, and when I + mentioned this, Lieutenant Garforth suggested that we should + proceed to Kilwa, so at 5 A.M. I went up to the dhow with Mr. + Fane, and told the captain that we were going there. He was loud + in his protestations against this, and strongly recommended the + port of Mikindany, as quite near to Rovuma, Nyassa, and the + country I wished to visit, besides being a good landing-place, + and the finest port on the coast. Thither we went, and on the + same evening landed all our animals in Mikindany bay, which lies + only twenty-five miles N. of Rovuma. The <i>Penguin</i> then + left.</p> + + <p>The Rovuma is quite altered from what it was when first we + visited it. It is probable that the freshets form banks inside + the mouth, which are washed out into the deep bay, and this + periodical formation probably has prevented the Arabs from using + the Rovuma as a port of shipment. It is not likely that Mr. + May<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> would have made a + mistake if the middle were as shoal as now: he found soundings of + three fathoms or more.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p012" id="p012"></a> <img src="images/p012.jpg" width= + "400" height="450" alt= + "Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels." title= + "Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels." /><br /> + <b>Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels.</b> + </div> + + <p><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a><i>25th March, + 1866.</i>—I hired a house for four dollars a month and + landed all our goods from the dhow. The bay gives off a narrow + channel, about 500 yards wide and 200 yards long, the middle is + deep, but the sides are coral reefs and shoal: the deep part + seems about 100 yards wide. Outside in the Bay of Mikindany there + is no anchorage except on the edge of the reef where the + <i>Penguin</i> got seven fathoms, but further in it was only two + fathoms. The inner bay is called Pemba, not Pimlea, as + erroneously printed in the charts of Owen. It <a name="Page_13" + id="Page_13"></a>is deep and quite sheltered; another of a + similar round form lies somewhat to the south: this bay may be + two miles square.</p> + + <p>The cattle are all very much the worse for being knocked about + in the dhow. We began to prepare saddles of a very strong tree + called Ntibwé, which is also used for making the hooked + spear with which hippopotami are killed—the hook is very + strong and tough; I applied also for twenty carriers and a Banian + engaged to get them as soon as possible. The people have no + cattle here, they are half-caste Arabs mostly, and quite civil to + us.</p> + + <p><i>26th March, 1866.</i>—A few of the Nassick boys have + the slave spirit pretty strongly; it goes deepest in those who + have the darkest skins. Two Gallah men are the most intelligent + and hardworking among them; some look on work with indifference + when others are the actors.</p> + + <p>Now that I am on the point of starting on another trip into + Africa I feel quite exhilarated: when one travels with the + specific object in view of ameliorating the condition of the + natives every act becomes ennobled.</p> + + <p>Whether exchanging the customary civilities, or arriving at a + village, accepting a night's lodging, purchasing food for the + party, asking for information, or answering polite African + enquiries as to our objects in travelling, we begin to spread a + knowledge of that people by whose agency their land will yet + become enlightened and freed from the slave-trade.</p> + + <p>The mere animal pleasure of travelling in a wild unexplored + country is very great. When on lands of a couple of thousand feet + elevation, brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles, + fresh and healthy blood circulates through the brain, the mind + works well, the eye is clear, the step is firm, and a day's + exertion always makes the evening's repose thoroughly + enjoyable.</p> + + <p>We have usually the stimulus of remote chances of <a name= + "Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>danger either from beasts or men. Our + sympathies are drawn out towards our humble hardy companions by a + community of interests, and, it may be, of perils, which make us + all friends. Nothing but the most pitiable puerility would lead + any manly heart to make their inferiority a theme for + self-exaltation; however, that is often done, as if with the + vague idea that we can, by magnifying their deficiencies, + demonstrate our immaculate perfections.</p> + + <p>The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right + place is that the mind is made more self-reliant: it becomes more + confident of its own resources—there is greater presence of + mind. The body is soon well-knit; the muscles of the limbs grow + as hard as a board, and seem to have no fat; the countenance is + bronzed, and there is no dyspepsia. Africa is a most wonderful + country for appetite, and it is only when one gloats over marrow + bones or elephant's feet that indigestion is possible. No doubt + much toil is involved, and fatigue of which travellers in the + more temperate climes can form but a faint conception; but the + sweat of one's brow is no longer a curse when one works for God: + it proves a tonic to the system, and is actually a blessing. No + one can truly appreciate the charm of repose unless he has + undergone severe exertion.</p> + + <p><i>27th March, 1866.</i>—The point of land which on the + north side of the entrance to the harbour narrows it to about 300 + yards is alone called Pemba; the other parts have different + names. Looking northwards from the point, the first hundred yards + has ninety square houses of wattled daub; a ruin (a mosque) has + been built of lime and coral. The whole point is coral, and the + soil is red, and covered over with dense tropical vegetation, in + which the baobab is conspicuous. Dhows at present come in with + ease by the easterly wind which blows in the evening, and leave + next morning, the land wind taking them out.</p> + + <p>While the camels and other animals are getting over <a name= + "Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>their fatigues and bad bruises, we are + making camels' saddles, and repairing those of the mules and + buffaloes. Oysters abound on all the rocks and on the trees over + which the tide flows: they are small, but much relished by the + people.</p> + + <p>The Arabs here are a wretched lot physically—thin, + washed-out creatures—many with bleared eyes.</p> + + <p><i>29-30th March, 1866.</i>—- This harbour has somewhat + the shape of a bent bow or the spade on a playing-card, the shaft + of the arrow being the entrance in; the passage is very deep, but + not more than 100 yards wide, and it goes in nearly S.W.; inside + it is deep and quite secure, and protected from all winds. The + lands westward rise at once to about 200 feet, and John, a hill, + is the landmark by which it is best known in coming along the + coast—so say the Arabs. The people have no cattle, but say + there are no tsetse flies: they have not been long here, + <i>i.e.</i> under the present system; but a ruin on the northern + peninsula or face of the entrance, built of stone and + lime—Arab-fashion, and others on the north-west, show that + the place has been known and used of old. The adjacent country + has large game at different water pools, and as the whole country + is somewhat elevated it probably is healthy. There is very little + mangrove, but another enclosed piece of water to the south of + this probably has more. The language of the people here is + Swaheli; they trade a little in gum-copal and Orchilla weed. An + agent of the Zanzibar custom-house presides over the customs, + which are very small, and a jemidar acknowledging the Sultan is + the chief authority; but the people are little superior to the + natives whom they have displaced. The jemidar has been very civil + to me, and gives me two guides to go on to Adondé, but no + carriers can be hired. Water is found in wells in the coral rock + which underlies the whole place.</p> + + <p><i>4th April, 1866.</i>—When about to start from Pemba, + at the entrance to the other side of the bay one of our buffaloes + <a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>gored a donkey so badly that + he had to be shot: we cut off the tips of the offender's horns, + on the principle of "locking the stable-door when the steed is + stolen," and marched. We came to level spots devoid of + vegetation, and hard on the surface, but a deposit of water below + allowed the camels to sink up to their bodies through the crust. + Hauling them out, we got along to the jemidar's house, which is + built of coral and lime. Hamesh was profuse in his professions of + desire to serve, but gave a shabby hut which let in rain and + wind. I slept one night in it, and it was unbearable, so I asked + the jemidar to allow me to sleep in his court-room, where many of + the sepoys were: he consented, but when I went refused; then, + being an excitable, nervous Arab, he took fright, mustered all + his men, amounting to about fifteen, with matchlocks; ran off, + saying he was going to kill a lion; came back, shook hands + nervously with me, vowing it was a man who would not obey him, + "it was not you."</p> + + <p>Our goods were all out in the street, bound on the + pack-saddles, so at night we took the ordinary precaution of + setting a guard. This excited our dignitary, and after dark all + his men were again mustered with matches lighted. I took no + notice of him, and after he had spent a good deal of talk, which + we could hear, he called Musa and asked what I meant. The + explanations of Musa had the effect of sending him to bed, and in + the morning, when I learned how much I had most unintentionally + disturbed him, I told him that I was sorry, but it did not occur + to me to tell him about an ordinary precaution against thieves. + He thought he had given me a crushing reply when he said with + vehemence, "But there are no thieves here." I did not know till + afterwards that he and others had done me an ill turn in saying + that no carriers could be hired from the independent tribes + adjacent. They are low-coast Arabs, three-quarters African, and, + as usual, possess the bad without the good qualities of both + parents. Many of them came and begged brandy, <a name="Page_17" + id="Page_17"></a>and laughed when they remarked that they could + drink it in secret but not openly; they have not, however, + introduced it as an article of trade, as we Christians have done + on the West Coast.</p> + + <p><i>6th April, 1866.</i>—We made a short march round to + the south-west side of the Lake, and spent the night at a village + in that direction. There are six villages dotted round the inner + harbour, and the population may amount to 250 or 300 + souls—coast Arabs and their slaves; the southern portion of + the harbour is deep, from ten to fourteen fathoms, but the + north-western part is shoal and rocky. Very little is done in the + way of trade; some sorghum, sem-sem seed, gum-copal, and orchilla + weed, constitute the commerce of the port: I saw two Banian + traders settled here.</p> + + <p><i>7th April, 1866.</i>—Went about south from Kindany + with a Somalie guide, named Ben Ali or Bon Ali, a good-looking + obliging man, who was to get twenty dollars to take us up to + Ngomano. Our path lay in a valley, with well-wooded heights on + each side, but the grass towered over our heads, and gave the + sensation of smothering, whilst the sun beat down on our heads + very fiercely, and there was not a breath of air stirring. Not + understanding camels, I had to trust to the sepoys who overloaded + them, and before we had accomplished our march of about seven + miles they were knocked up.</p> + + <p><i>8th April, 1866.</i>—We spent the Sunday at a village + called Nyañgedi. Here on the evening of the 7th April our + buffaloes and camels were first bitten by the tsetse fly.<a name= + "FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" + class="fnanchor">[5]</a> We had passed through some pieces of + dense jungle which, though they offered no obstruction to + foot-passengers, but rather an agreeable shade, had to be cut for + the tall camels, <a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>and + fortunately we found the Makondé of this village glad to + engage themselves by the day either as woodcutters or carriers. + We had left many things with the jemidar from an idea that no + carriers could be procured. I lightened the camels, and had a + party of woodcutters to heighten and widen the path in the dense + jungle into which we now penetrated. Every now and then we + emerged on open spaces, where the Makondé have cleared + gardens for sorghum, maize, and cassava. The people were very + much more taken up with the camels and buffaloes than with me. + They are all independent of each other, and no paramount chief + exists. Their foreheads may be called compact, narrow, and rather + low; the <i>alae nasi</i> expanded laterally; lips full, not + excessively thick; limbs and body well formed; hands and feet + small; colour dark and light-brown; height middle size, and + bearing independent.</p> + + <p><i>10th April, 1866.</i>—We reached a village called + Narri, lat. 10° 23' 14" S. Many of the men had touches of + fever. I gave medicine to eleven of them, and next morning all + were better. Food is abundant and cheap. Our course is nearly + south, and in "wadys," from which, following the trade-road, we + often ascend the heights, and then from the villages, which are + on the higher land, we descend to another on the same wady. No + running water is seen; the people depend on wells for a + supply.</p> + + <p><i>11th April, 1866.</i>—At Tandahara we were still + ascending as we went south; the soil is very fertile, with a good + admixture of sand in it, but no rocks are visible. Very heavy + crops of maize and sorghum are raised, and the cassava bushes are + seven feet in height. The bamboos are cleared off them, spread + over the space to be cultivated and burned to serve as manure. + Iron is very scarce, for many of the men appear with wooden + spears; they find none here, but in some spots where an ooze + issued from the soil iron rust appeared. At each of the villages + where we spent a night we presented a <a name="Page_19" id= + "Page_19"></a>fathom of calico, and the headman always gave a + fowl or two, and a basket of rice or maize. The Makondé + dialect is quite different from Swaheli, but from their + intercourse with the coast Arabs many of the people here have + acquired a knowledge of Swaheli.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 199px;"> + <a name="p019" id="p019"></a> <img src="images/p019.png" width= + "199" height="166" alt="A Thorn-climber." title= + "A Thorn-climber." /> <b>A Thorn-climber.</b> + </div> + + <p><i>12th April, 1866.</i>—On starting we found the jungle + so dense that the people thought "there was no cutting it:" it + continued upwards of three miles. The trees are not large, but so + closely planted together that a great deal of labour was required + to widen and heighten the path: where bamboos prevail they have + starved out the woody trees. The reason why the trees are not + large is because all the spaces we passed over were formerly + garden ground before the Makondé had been thinned by the + slave-trade. As soon as a garden is deserted, a thick crop of + trees of the same sorts as those formerly cut down springs up, + and here the process of woody trees starving out their fellows, + and occupying the land without dense scrub below, has not had + time to work itself out. Many are mere poles, and so intertwined + with climbers as to present the appearance of a ship's ropes and + cables shaken in among them, and many have woody stems as thick + as an eleven-inch hawser. One species may be likened to the + scabbard of a dragoon's sword, but along the middle of the flat + side runs a ridge, from which springs up every few inches a bunch + of inch-long straight sharp thorns. It hangs straight for a + couple of yards, but as if it could not give its thorns a fair + chance of mischief, it suddenly bends on itself, and all its + cruel points are now at right angles to what they were before. + Darwin's observation shows a great deal of what looks like + instinct in these <a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>climbers. + This species seems to be eager for mischief; its tangled limbs + hang out ready to inflict injury on all passers-by. Another + climber is so tough it is not to be broken by the fingers; + another appears at its root as a young tree, but it has the + straggling habits of its class, as may be seen by its cords + stretched some fifty or sixty feet off; it is often two inches in + diameter; you cut it through at one part and find it reappear + forty yards off.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> + <a name="p020" id="p020"></a> <img src="images/p020.png" width= + "200" height="178" alt="Tomahawk and Axe." title= + "Tomahawk and Axe." /> <b>Tomahawk and Axe.</b> + </div> + + <p>Another climber is like the leaf of an aloe, but convoluted as + strangely as shavings from the plane of a carpenter. It is dark + green in colour, and when its bark is taken off it is beautifully + striated beneath, lighter and darker green, like the rings of + growth on wood; still another is a thin string with a succession + of large knobs, and another has its bark pinched up all round at + intervals so as to present a great many cutting edges. One sort + need scarcely be mentioned, in which all along its length are + strong bent hooks, placed in a way that will hold one if it can + but grapple with him, for that is very common and not like those + mentioned, which the rather seem to be stragglers from the + carboniferous period of geologists, when Pachydermata wriggled + unscathed among tangled masses worse than these. We employed + about ten jolly young Makondé to deal with these + prehistoric plants in their own way, for they are accustomed to + clearing spaces for gardens, and went at the work with a will, + using tomahawks well adapted for the work. They whittled away + right manfully, taking an axe when any trees had to be cut. Their + pay, arranged beforehand, was to be one yard of calico per day: + this is not much, seeing we are still so near the sea-coast. + Climbers and young trees melted before them like a cloud before + the sun! Many more would have worked than we employed, but we + used the precaution of taking <a name="Page_21" id= + "Page_21"></a>the names of those engaged. The tall men became + exhausted soonest, while the shorter men worked vigorously + still—but a couple of days' hard work seemed to tell on the + best of them. It is doubtful if any but meat-eating people can + stand long-continued labour without exhaustion: the Chinese may + be an exception. When French navvies were first employed they + could not do a tithe of the work of our English ones; but when + the French were fed in the same style as the English, they + performed equally well. Here the Makondé have rarely the + chance of a good feed of meat: it is only when one of them is + fortunate enough to spear a wild hog or an antelope that they + know this luxury; if a fowl is eaten they get but a taste of it + with their porridge.</p> + + <p><i>13th April, 1866.</i>—We now began to descend the + northern slope down to the Rovuma, and a glimpse could + occasionally be had of the country; it seemed covered with great + masses of dark green forest, but the undulations occasionally + looked like hills, and here and there a Sterculia had put on + yellow foliage in anticipation of the coming winter. More + frequently our vision was circumscribed to a few yards till our + merry woodcutters made for us the pleasant scene of a long vista + fit for camels to pass: as a whole, the jungle would have made + the authors of the natty little hints to travellers smile at + their own productions, good enough, perhaps, where one has an + open country with trees and hills; by which to take bearings, + estimate distances, see that one point is on the same latitude, + another on the same longitude with such another, and all to be + laid down fair and square with protractor and compass, but so + long as we remained within the vegetation, that is fed by the + moisture from the Indian Ocean, the steamy, smothering air, and + dank, rank, luxuriant vegetation made me feel, like it, + struggling for existence,—and no more capable of taking + bearings than if I had been in a hogshead and observing through + the bunghole!</p> + + <p><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>An old Monyiñko + headman presented a goat and asked if the sepoys wished to cut + its throat: the Johannees, being of a different sect of + Mahometans, wanted to cut it in some other way than their Indian + co-religionists: then ensued a fierce dispute as to who was of + the right sort of Moslem! It was interesting to see that not + Christians alone, but other nations feel keenly on religious + subjects.</p> + + <p>I saw rocks of grey sandstone (like that which overlies coal) + and the Rovuma in the distance. Didi is the name of a village + whose headsman, Chombokëa, is said to be a doctor; all the + headmen pretend or are really doctors; however one, Fundindomba, + came after me for medicine for himself.</p> + + <p><i>14th April, 1866.</i>—To-day we succeeded in reaching + the Rovuma, where some very red cliffs appear on the opposite + heights, and close by where it is marked on the map that the + <i>Pioneer</i> turned back in 1861. Here we rested on Sunday + 15th.</p> + + <p><i>16th April, 1866.</i>—Our course now lay westwards, + along the side of that ragged outline of table-land, which we had + formerly seen from the river as flanking both sides. There it + appeared a range of hills shutting in Rovuma, here we had spurs + jutting out towards the river, and valleys retiring from a mile + to three miles inland. Sometimes we wended our way round them, + sometimes rose over and descended their western sides, and then a + great deal of wood-cutting was required. The path is not + straight, but from one village to another. We came perpetually on + gardens, and remarked that rice was sown among the other grain; + there must be a good deal of moisture at other times to admit of + this succeeding: at present the crops were suffering for want of + rain. We could purchase plenty of rice for the sepoys, and well + it was so, for the supply which was to last till we arrived at + Ngomano was finished on the 13th. An old doctor, with our food + awaiting, presented me with two large bags of rice and his wife + husked it for us.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a><i>17th April, + 1866.</i>—I had to leave the camels in the hands of the + sepoys: I ordered them to bring as little luggage as possible, + and the Havildar assured me that two buffaloes were amply + sufficient to carry all they would bring. I now find that they + have more than full loads for two buffaloes, two mules, and two + donkeys; but when these animals fall down under them, they assure + me with so much positiveness that they are not overloaded, that I + have to be silent, or only, as I have several times done before, + express the opinion that they will kill these animals. This + observation on my part leads them to hide their things in the + packs of the camels, which also are over-burdened. I fear that my + experiment with the tsetse will be vitiated, but no symptoms yet + occur in any of the camels except weariness.<a name= + "FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" + class="fnanchor">[6]</a> The sun is very sharp; it scorches. + Nearly all the sepoys had fever, but it is easily cured; they + never required to stop marching, and we cannot make over four or + five miles a day, which movement aids in the cure. In all cases + of fever removal from the spot of attack should be made: after + the fever among the sepoys, the Nassick boys took their turn + along with the Johannees.</p> + + <p><i>18th April, 1866.</i>—Ben Ali misled us away up to + the north in spite of my protest, when we turned in that + direction; he declared that was the proper path. We had much + wood-cutting, and found that our course that day and next was to + enable him to visit and return from one of his wives—a + comely Makondé woman! He brought her to call on me, and I + had to be polite to the lady, though we lost a day by the zigzag. + This is one way by which the Arabs gain influence; a great many + very light-coloured people are strewed among the Makondé, + but only one of these had the Arab <a name="Page_24" id= + "Page_24"></a>hair. On asking Ali whether any attempts had been + made by Arabs to convert those with whom they enter into such + intimate relationships, he replied that the Makondé had no + idea of a Deity—no one could teach them, though + Makondé slaves when taken to the coast and elsewhere were + made Mahometans. Since the slave-trade was introduced this tribe + has much diminished in numbers, and one village makes war upon + another and kidnaps, but no religious teaching has been + attempted. The Arabs come down to the native ways, and make no + efforts to raise the natives to theirs; it is better that it is + so, for the coast Arab's manners and morals would be no + improvement on the pagan African!</p> + + <p><i>19th April, 1866.</i>—We were led up over a hill + again, and on to the level of the plateau (where the evaporation + is greater than in the valley), and tasted water of an agreeable + coldness for the first time this journey. The people, especially + the women, are very rude, and the men very eager to be employed + as woodcutters. Very merry they are at it, and every now and then + one raises a cheerful shout, in which all join. I suppose they + are urged on by a desire to please their wives with a little + clothing. The higher up the Rovuma we ascend the people are more + and more tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body. The + teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by the + women; some few Mabeha men from the south side of the river have + lip-rings too.</p> + + <p><i>20th April, 1866.</i>—A Johanna man allowed the + camels to trespass and destroy a man's tobacco patch: the owner + would not allow us after this to pass through his rice-field, in + which the route lay. I examined the damage, and made the Johanna + man pay a yard of calico for it, which set matters all right.</p> + + <p>Tsetse are biting the buffaloes again. Elephants, hippopotami, + and pigs are the only game here, but we see none: <a name= + "Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>the tsetse feed on them. In the low + meadow land, from one to three miles broad, which lies along both + banks, we have brackish pools, and one, a large one, which we + passed, called Wrongwé, had much fish, and salt is got + from it.</p> + + <p><i>21st April, 1866.</i>—After a great deal of cutting + we reached the valley of Mehambwé to spend Sunday, all + glad that it had come round again. Here some men came to our camp + from Ndondé, who report that an invasion of Mazitu had + three months ago swept away all the food out of the country, and + they are now obliged to send in every direction for provisions. + When saluting, they catch each other's hands and say, "Ai! Ai!" + but the general mode (introduced, probably by the Arabs) is to + take hold of the right hand, and say, "Marhaba" (welcome).</p> + + <p>A wall-eyed ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on the + attack on our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom I gave + cloth to prevent a collision, came about us disguised in a + jacket. I knew him well, but said nothing to him.<a name= + "FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" + class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> + + <p><i>23rd April, 1866.</i>—When we marched this morning we + passed the spot where an animal had been burned in the fire, and + on enquiry I found that it is the custom when a leopard is killed + to take off the skin and consume the carcase thus, because the + Makondé do not eat it. The reason they gave for not eating + flesh which is freely eaten by other tribes, is that the leopard + devours men; this shows the opposite of an inclination to + cannibalism.</p> + + <p>All the rocks we had seen showed that the plateau consists of + grey sandstone, capped by a ferruginous sandy conglomerate. We + now came to blocks of silicified wood lying on the surface; it is + so like recent wood, that no one who <a name="Page_26" id= + "Page_26"></a>has not handled it would conceive it to be stone + and not wood: the outer surface preserves the grain or woody + fibre, the inner is generally silica.</p> + + <p>Buffaloes bitten by tsetse again show no bad effects from it: + one mule is, however, dull and out of health; I thought that this + might be the effect of the bite till I found that his back was so + strained that he could not stoop to drink, and could only eat the + tops of the grasses. An ox would have been ill in two days after + the biting on the 7th.</p> + + <p>A carrier stole a shirt, and went off unsuspected; when the + loss was ascertained, the man's companions tracked him with Ben + Ali by night, got him in his hut, and then collected the headmen + of the village, who fined him about four times the value of what + had been stolen. They came back in the morning without seeming to + think that they had done aught to be commended; this was the only + case of theft we had noticed, and the treatment showed a natural + sense of justice.</p> + + <p><i>24th April, 1866.</i>—We had showers occasionally, + but at night all the men were under cover of screens. The fevers + were speedily cured; no day was lost by sickness, but we could + not march more than a few miles, owing to the slowness of the + sepoys; they are a heavy drag on us, and of no possible use, + except when acting as sentries at night.</p> + + <p>When in the way between Kendany and Rovuma, I observed a plant + here, called <i>Mandaré</i>, the root of which is in taste + and appearance like a waxy potato; I saw it once before at the + falls below the Barotsé Valley, in the middle of the + continent; it had been brought there by an emigrant, who led out + the water for irrigation, and it still maintained its place in + the soil. Would this not prove valuable in the soil of India? I + find that it is not cultivated further up the country of the + Makondé, but I shall get Ali to secure some for + Bombay.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a><i>25th April, + 1866.</i>—A serpent bit Jack, our dog, above the eye, the + upper eyelid swelled very much, but no other symptoms appeared, + and next day all swelling was gone; the serpent was either + harmless, or the quantity of poison injected very small. The pace + of the camels is distressingly slow, and it suits the sepoys to + make it still slower than natural by sitting down to smoke and + eat. The grass is high and ground under it damp and steamy.</p> + + <p><i>26th April, 1866.</i>—On the 25th we reached Narri, + and resolved to wait the next day and buy food, as it is not so + plentiful in front; the people are eager traders in meal, fowls, + eggs, and honey; the women are very rude. Yesterday I caught a + sepoy, Pando, belabouring a camel with a big stick as thick as + any part of his arm, the path being narrow, it could not get out + of his way; I shouted to him to desist; he did not know I was in + sight, to-day the effect of the bad usage is seen in the animal + being quite unable to move its leg: inflammation has set up in + the hip-joint. I am afraid that several bruises which have + festered on the camels, and were to me unaccountable, have been + wilfully bestowed. This same Pando and another left Zanzibar + drunk: he then stole a pair of socks from me, and has otherwise + been perfectly useless, even a pimple on his leg was an excuse + for doing nothing for many days. We had to leave this camel at + Narri under charge of the headman.</p> + + <p><i>28th April, 1866.</i>—The hills on the north now + retire out of our sight. A gap in the southern plateau gives + passage to a small river, which arises in a lakelet of some size, + eight or ten miles inland: the river and lakelet are both called + Nangadi; the latter is so broad that men cannot be distinguished, + even by the keen eyes of the natives on the other side: it is + very deep, and abounds in large fish; the people who live there + are Mabiha. A few miles above this gap the southern highland + falls away, and there are lakelets on <a name="Page_28" id= + "Page_28"></a>marshes, also abounding in fish, an uninhabited + space next succeeds, and then we have the Matambwé + country, which extends up to Ngomano. The Matambwé seem to + be a branch of the Makondé, and a very large one: their + country extends a long way south, and is well stocked with + elephants and gum-copal trees.</p> + + <p>They speak a language slightly different from that of the + Makondé, but they understand them. The Matambwé + women are, according to Ali, very dark, but very comely, though + they do wear the lip-ring. They carry their ivory, gum-copal, and + slaves to Ibo or Wibo.</p> + + <p><i>29th April, 1866.</i>—We spend Sunday, the 29th, on + the banks of the Rovuma, at a village called Nachuchu, nearly + opposite Konayumba, the first of the Matambwé, whose chief + is called Kimbembé. Ali draws a very dark picture of the + Makondé. He says they know nothing of a Deity, they pray + to their mothers when in distress or dying; know nothing of a + future state, nor have they any religion except a belief in + medicine; and every headsman is a doctor. No Arab has ever tried + to convert them, but occasionally a slave taken to the coast has + been circumcised in order to be clean; some of them pray, and say + they know not the ordeal or muavi. The Nassick boys failed me + when I tried to communicate some knowledge through them. They say + they do not understand the Makondé language, though some + told me that they came from Ndondé's, which is the + head-quarters of the Makondé. Ali says that the + Makondé blame witches for disease and death; when one of a + village dies, the whole population departs, saying "that is a bad + spot." They are said to have been notorious for fines, but an awe + has come over them, and no complaints have been made, though our + animals in passing the gardens have broken a good deal of corn. + Ali says they fear the English. This is an answer to my prayer + for influence on the minds of the heathen. I <a name="Page_29" + id="Page_29"></a>regret that I cannot speak to them that good of + His name which I ought.</p> + + <p>I went with the Makondé to see a specimen of the + gum-copal tree in the vicinity of this village. The leaves are in + pairs, glossy green, with the veins a little raised on both face + and back; the smaller branches diverge from the same point: the + fruit, of which we saw the shells, seems to be a nut; some animal + had in eating them cut them through. The bark of the tree is of a + light ash colour; the gum was oozing from the bark at wounded + places, and it drops on the ground from branches; it is thus that + insects are probably imbedded in the gum-copal. The people dig in + the vicinity of modern trees in the belief that the more ancient + trees which dropped their gum before it became an article of + commerce must have stood there. "In digging, none may be found on + one day but God (Mungu) may give it to us on the next." To this + all the Makondé present assented, and showed me the + consciousness of His existence was present in their minds. The + Makondé get the gum in large quantities, and this attracts + the coast Arabs, who remain a long time in the country purchasing + it. Hernia humoralis abounds; it is ascribed to + beer-drinking.</p> + + <p><i>30th April, 1866.</i>—Many ulcers burst forth on the + camels; some seem old dhow bruises. They come back from pasture, + bleeding in a way that no rubbing against a tree would account + for. I am sorry to suspect foul play: the buffaloes and mules are + badly used, but I cannot be always near to prevent it.</p> + + <p>Bhang<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> is not smoked, but + tobacco is: the people have no sheep or goats; only fowls, + pigeons, and Muscovy ducks are seen. Honey is very cheap; a good + large pot of about a gallon, with four fowls, was given for two + yards of calico. <a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>Buffaloes + again bitten by tsetse, and by another fly exactly like the + house-fly, but having a straight hard proboscis instead of a soft + one; other large flies make the blood run. The tsetse does not + disturb the buffaloes, but these others and the smaller flies do. + The tsetse seem to like the camel best; from these they are + gorged with blood—they do not seem to care for the mules + and donkeys.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p030" id="p030"></a> <img src="images/p030.png" width= + "400" height="383" alt="Carved Door, Zanzibar." title= + "Carved Door, Zanzibar." /><br /> + <b>Carved Door, Zanzibar.</b> + </div> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Dhow is + the name given to the coasting vessel of East Africa and the + Indian Ocean.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The + Commander of H.M.S. <i>Pioneer</i> in 1861.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Those who + have read the accounts given by African travellers will + remember that the bites inflicted by two or three of these + small flies will visually lay the foundation of a sickness + which destroys oxen, horses, and dogs in a few weeks.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Dr. + Livingstone was anxious to try camels and Indian buffaloes in + a tsetse country to see the effect upon them.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> This + refers to an attack made upon the boats of the <i>Pioneer</i> + when the Doctor was exploring the River Rovuma in 1861.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> A species + of hemp.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><a name="Page_31" + id="Page_31"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Effect of <i>Pioneer's</i> former visit. The poodle + Chitané. Result of tsetse bites. Death of camels and + buffaloes. Disaffection of followers. Disputed right of ferry. + Mazitu raids. An old friend. Severe privations. The River + Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher. Desolation. Tattooing. + Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death of the Nassick boy, + Richard. A sad reminiscence.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>1st May, 1866.</i>—We now came along through a + country comparatively free of wood, and we could move on without + perpetual cutting and clearing. It is beautiful to get a good + glimpse out on the surrounding scenery, though it still seems + nearly all covered with great masses of umbrageous foliage, + mostly of a dark green colour, for nearly all of the individual + trees possess dark glossy leaves like laurel. We passed a + gigantic specimen of the Kumbé, or gum-copal tree. Kumba + means to dig. Changkumbé, or things dug, is the name of + the gum; the Arabs call it "sandarusé." Did the people + give the name Kumbé to the tree after the value of the gum + became known to them? The Malolé, from the fine grained + wood of which all the bows are made, had shed its fruit on the + ground; it looks inviting to the eye—an oblong + peach-looking thing, with a number of seeds inside, but it is + eaten by maggots only.</p> + + <p>When we came to Ntandé's village, we found it enclosed + in a strong stockade, from a fear of attack by Mabiha, who come + across the river and steal their women when going to <a name= + "Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>draw water: this is for the Ibo + market. They offered to pull down their stockade and let us in if + we would remain over-night, but we declined. Before reaching + Ntandé we passed the ruins of two villages; the owners + were the attacking party when we ascended the Rovuma in 1862. I + have still the old sail, with four bullet-holes through it, made + by the shots which they fired after we had given cloth and got + assurances of friendship. The father and son of this village were + the two men seen by the second boat preparing to shoot; the fire + of her crew struck the father on the chin and the son on the + head. It may have been for the best that the English are thus + known as people who can hit hard when unjustly attacked, as we on + this occasion most certainly were: never was a murderous assault + more unjustly made or less provoked. They had left their villages + and gone up over the highlands away from the river to their + ambush whilst their women came to look at us.</p> + + <p><i>2nd May, 1866.</i>—Mountains again approach us, and + we pass one which was noticed in our first ascent from its + resemblance to a table mountain. It is 600 or 800 feet high, and + called Liparu: the plateau now becomes mountainous, giving forth + a perennial stream which comes down from its western base and + forms a lagoon on the meadow-land that flanks the Rovuma. The + trees which love these perpetual streams spread their roots all + over the surface of the boggy banks, and make a firm surface, but + at spots one may sink a yard deep. We had to fill up these deep + ditches with branches and leaves, unload the animals, and lead + them across. We spent the night on the banks of the + Liparu,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> and then proceeded on + our way.</p> + + <p><i>3rd May, 1866.</i>—We rested in a Makoa village, the + head of which was an old woman. The Makoa or Makoané are + known by a half-moon figure tattooed on their foreheads or + <a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>elsewhere. Our poodle dog + Chitané chased the dogs of this village with unrelenting + fury, his fierce looks inspired terror among the wretched pariah + dogs of a yellow and white colour, and those looks were entirely + owing to its being difficult to distinguish at which end his head + or tail lay. He enjoyed the chase of the yelping curs immensely, + but if one of them had turned he would have bolted the other + way.</p> + + <p>A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me some + meal; this was when we were in the act of departing: others had + given food to the men and no return had been made. I told her to + send it on by her husband, and I would purchase it, but it would + have been better to have accepted it: some give merely out of + kindly feeling and with no prospect of a return.</p> + + <p>Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed in + double, raised lines of about half an inch in length. After the + incisions are made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh pressed + out, so that all the cuts are raised above the level of the + surface. It gives them rather a hideous look, and a good deal of + that fierceness which our kings and chiefs of old put on whilst + having their portraits taken.</p> + + <p><i>4th May, 1866.</i>—The stream, embowered in perpetual + shade and overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved + trees, we found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment + was an island formed by a branch of it parting and re-entering it + again: the owner had used it for rice.</p> + + <p>The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also + to-day, from the bites of other flies (which look much more + formidable than tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down; + this symptom I never saw before, but when we slaughtered an ox + which had been tsetse bitten, we observed that the blood had the + arterial hue. The cow has inflammation of one eye, and a swelling + on the right lumbar portion of the <a name="Page_34" id= + "Page_34"></a>pelvis: the grey buffalo has been sick, but this I + attribute to unmerciful loading; for his back is hurt: the camels + do not seem to feel the fly, though they get weaker from the + horrid running sores upon them and hard work. There are no + symptoms of tsetse in mules or donkeys, but one mule has had his + shoulder sprained, and he cannot stoop to eat or drink.</p> + + <p>We saw the last of the flanking range on the north. The + country in front is plain, with a few detached granitic peaks + shot up. The Makoa in large numbers live at the end of the range + in a place called Nyuchi. At Nyamba, a village where we spent the + night of the 5th, was a doctoress and rain-maker, who presented a + large basket of soroko, or, as they call it in India, "mung," and + a fowl. She is tall and well made, with fine limbs and feet, and + was profusely tattooed all over; even her hips and buttocks had + their elaborate markings: no shame is felt in exposing these + parts.</p> + + <p>A good deal of salt is made by lixiviation of the soil and + evaporating by fire. The head woman had a tame khanga tolé + or tufted guinea-fowl, with bluish instead of white spots.</p> + + <p>In passing along westwards after leaving the end of the range, + we came first of all on sandstone hardened by fire; then masses + of granite, as if in that had been contained the igneous agency + of partial metamorphosis; it had also lifted up the sandstone, so + as to cause a dip to the east. Then the syenite or granite seemed + as if it had been melted, for it was all in striae, which striae, + as they do elsewhere, run east and west. With the change in + geological structure we get a different vegetation. Instead of + the laurel-leaved trees of various kinds, we have African + ebonies, acacias, and mimosae: the grass is shorter and more + sparse, and we can move along without wood-cutting. We were now + opposite a hill on the south called Simba, a lion, from its + supposed resemblance to <a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>that + animal. A large Mabiha population live there, and make raids + occasionally over to this side for slaves.</p> + + <p><i>6th May, 1866.</i>—Tsetse again. The animals look + drowsy. The cow's eye is dimmed; when punctured, the skin emits a + stream of scarlet blood. The people hereabouts seem intelligent + and respectful. At service a man began to talk, but when I said, + "Ku soma Mlungu,"—"we wish to pray to God," he desisted. It + would be interesting to know what the ideas of these men are, and + to ascertain what they have gained in their communings with + nature during the ages past. They do not give the idea of that + boisterous wickedness and disregard of life which we read of in + our own dark ages, but I have no one to translate, although I can + understand much of what is said on common topics chiefly from + knowing other dialects.</p> + + <p><i>7th May, 1866.</i>—A camel died during the night, and + the grey buffalo is in convulsions this morning. The cruelty of + these sepoys vitiates my experiment, and I quite expect many + camels, one buffalo, and one mule to die yet; they sit down and + smoke and eat, leaving the animals loaded in the sun. If I am not + with them, it is a constant dawdling; they are evidently + unwilling to exert themselves, they cannot carry their belts and + bags, and their powers of eating and vomiting are astounding. The + Makondé villages are remarkably clean, but no sooner do we + pass a night in one than the fellows make it filthy. The climate + does give a sharp appetite, but these sepoys indulge it till + relieved by vomiting and purging. First of all they breakfast, + then an hour afterwards they are sitting eating the pocketfuls of + corn maize they have stolen and brought for the purpose, whilst I + have to go ahead, otherwise we may be misled into a zigzag course + to see Ali's friends; and if I remain behind to keep the sepoys + on the move, it deprives me of all the pleasure of travelling. We + have not averaged four miles a day in a straight line, yet the + animals have often been <a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>kept + in the sun for eight hours at a stretch. When we get up at 4 A.M. + we cannot get under weigh before 8 o'clock. Sepoys are a + mistake.</p> + + <p><i>7th May, 1866.</i>—We are now opposite a mountain + called Nabungala, which resembles from the north-east an elephant + lying down. Another camel, a very good one, died on the way: its + shiverings and convulsions are not at all like what we observed + in horses and oxen killed by tsetse, but such may lie the cause, + however. The only symptom pointing to the tsetse is the + arterial-looking blood, but we never saw it ooze from the skin + after the bite of the gad-fly as we do now.</p> + + <p><i>8th May, 1866.</i>—We arrived at a village called + Jpondé, or Lipondé, which lies opposite a granitic + hill on the other-side of the river (where we spent a night on + our boat trip), called Nakapuri; this is rather odd, for the + words are not Makondé but Sichuana, and signify goat's + horn, from the projections jutting out from the rest of the mass. + I left the havildar, sepoys, and Nassick boys here in order to + make a forced march forward, where no food is to be had, and send + either to the south or westwards for supplies, so that after they + have rested the animals and themselves five days they may come. + One mule is very ill; one buffalo drowsy and exhausted; one camel + a mere skeleton from bad sores; and another has an enormous hole + at the point of the pelvis, which sticks out at the side. I + suspect that this was made maliciously, for he came from the + field bleeding profusely; no tree would have perforated a round + hole in this way. I take all the goods and leave only the sepoys' + luggage, which is enough for all the animals now.</p> + + <p><i>9th May, 1866.</i>—I went on with the Johanna men and + twenty-four carriers, for it was a pleasure to get away from the + sepoys and Nassick boys; the two combined to overload the + animals. I told them repeatedly that they would kill them, but no + sooner had I adjusted the burdens and turned my back than + <a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>they put on all their things. + It was however such continual vexation to contend with the + sneaking spirit, that I gave up annoying myself by seeing + matters, though I felt certain that the animals would all be + killed. We did at least eight miles pleasantly well, and slept at + Moedaa village. The rocks are still syenite. We passed a valley + with the large thorny acacias of which canoes are often made, and + a euphorbiaceous tree, with seed-vessels as large as mandarin + oranges, with three seeds inside. We were now in a country which, + in addition to the Mazitu invasion, was suffering from one of + those inexplicable droughts to which limited and sometimes large + portions of this country are subject. It had not been nearly so + severe on the opposite or south side, and thither too the Mazitu + had not penetrated. Rushes, which plagued us nearer the coast, + are not observed now; the grass is all crisp and yellow; many of + the plants are dead, and leaves are fallen off the trees as if + winter had begun. The ground is covered with open forest, with + here and there thick jungle on the banks of the streams. All the + rivulets we have passed are mere mountain torrents filled with + sand, in which the people dig for water.</p> + + <p>We passed the spot where an Arab called Birkal was asked + payment for leave to pass. After two and a half days' parley he + fought, killed two Makondé, and mortally wounded a + headman, which settled the matter; no fresh demand has been made. + Ali's brother also resisted the same sort of demand, fought + several times, or until three Makondé and two of his + people were killed; they then made peace, and no other exactions + have been made.</p> + + <p><i>11th May, 1866.</i>—We now found a difficulty in + getting our carriers along, on account of exhaustion from want of + food. In going up a sand stream called Nyédé, we + saw that all moist spots had been planted with maize and beans, + so the loss caused by the Mazitu, who swept the land like a cloud + of locusts, will not be attended by much actual starvation. + <a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>We met a runaway woman: she + was seized by Ali, and it was plain that he expected a reward for + his pains. He thought she was a slave, but a quarter of a mile + off was the village she had left, and it being doubtful if she + were a runaway at all, the would-be fugitive slave-capture turned + out a failure.</p> + + <p><i>12th May, 1866.</i>—About 4' E.N.E. of Matawatawa, or + Nyamatololé, our former turning point.</p> + + <p><i>13th May, 1866.</i>—We halted at a village at + Matawatawa. A pleasant-looking lady, with her face profusely + tattooed, came forward with a bunch of sweet reed, or <i>Sorghum + saceliaratum</i>, and laid it at my feet, saying, "I met you here + before," pointing to the spot on the river where we turned. I + remember her coming then, and that I asked the boat to wait while + she went to bring us a basket of food, and I think it was given + to Chiko, and no return made. It is sheer kindliness that prompts + them sometimes, though occasionally people do make presents with + a view of getting a larger one in return: it is pleasant to find + that it is not always so. She had a quiet, dignified manner, both + in talking and walking, and I now gave her a small looking-glass, + and she went and brought me her only fowl and a basket of + cucumber-seeds, from which oil is made; from the amount of oily + matter they contain thov are nutritious when roasted and eaten as + nuts. She made an apology, saying they were hungry times at + present. I gave her a cloth, and so parted with + Kanañgoné, or, as her name may be spelled, + Kanañoné. The carriers were very useless from + hunger, and we could not buy anything for them; for the country + is all dried up, and covered sparsely with mimosas and thorny + acacias.</p> + + <p><i>14th May, 1866.</i>—I could not get the carriers on + more than an hour and three-quarters: men tire very soon on empty + stomachs. We had reached the village of Hassané, opposite + to a conical hill named Chisulwé, which is on the south + side of the river, and evidently of igneous origin. It is + tree-covered, <a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>while the + granite always shows lumps of naked rock. All about lie great + patches of beautiful dolomite. It may have been formed by baking + of the tufa, which in this country seems always to have been + poured out with water after volcanic action. Hassané's + daughter was just lifting a pot of French beans, boiled in their + pods, off the fire when we entered the village, these he + presented to me, and when I invited him to partake, he replied + that he was at home and would get something, while I was a + stranger on a journey. He, like all the other headmen, is a + reputed doctor, and his wife, a stout old lady, a doctoress; he + had never married any wife but this one, and he had four + children, all of whom lived with their parents. We employed one + of his sons to go to the south side and purchase food, sending at + the same time some carriers to buy for themselves. The siroko and + rice bought by Hassané's son we deposited with him for the + party behind, when they should arrive. The amount of terror the + Mazitu inspire cannot be realized by us. They shake their shields + and the people fly like stricken deer. I observed that a child + would not go a few yards for necessary purposes unless + grandmother stood in sight. Matumora, as the Arabs call the chief + at Ngomano, gave them a warm reception, and killed several of + them: this probably induced them to retire.</p> + + <p><i>15th and 16th May, 1866.</i>—Miserably short marches + from hunger, and I sympathise with the poor fellows. Those sent + to buy food for themselves on the south bank were misled by a + talkative fellow named Chikungu, and went off north, where we + knew nothing could be had. His object was to get paid for three + days, while they only loitered here. I suppose hunger has taken + the spirit out of them; but I told them that a day in which no + work was done did not count: they admitted this. We pay about two + feet of calico per day, and a fathom or six feet for three days' + carriage.</p> + + <p><i>17th May, 1866.</i>—With very empty stomachs they + came on a <a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>few miles and + proposed to cross to the south side; as this involved crossing + the Luendi too, I at first objected, but in hopes that we might + get food for them we consented, and were taken over in two very + small canoes. I sent Ali and Musa meanwhile to the south to try + and get some food. I got a little green sorghum for them and paid + them off. These are the little troubles of travelling, and scarce + worth mentioning. A granitic peak now appears about 15' off, to + the W.S.W. It is called Chihoka.</p> + + <p><i>18th May, 1866.</i>—At our crossing place metamorphic + rocks of a chocolate colour stood on edge; and in the country + round we have patches of dolomite, sometimes as white as marble. + The country is all dry: grass and leaves crisp and yellow. Though + so arid now, yet the great abundance of the dried stalks of a + water-loving plant, a sort of herbaceous acacia, with green + pea-shaped flowers, proves that at other times it is damp enough. + The marks of people's feet floundering in slush, but now baked, + show that the country can be sloppy.</p> + + <p>The headman of the village where we spent the night of 17th is + a martyr to rheumatism. He asked for medicine, and when I gave + some he asked me to give it to him out of my own hand. He + presented me with a basket of siroko and of green sorghum as a + fee, of which I was very glad, for my own party were suffering, + and I had to share out the little portion of flour I had reserved + to myself.</p> + + <p><i>19th May, 1866.</i>—Coming on with what carriers we + could find at the crossing place, we reached the confluence + without seeing it; and Matumora being about two miles up the + Loendi, we sent over to him for aid. He came over this morning + early,—a tall, well-made man, with a somewhat severe + expression of countenance, from a number of wrinkles on his + forehead. He took us over the Loendi, which is decidedly the + parent stream of the Rovuma, though that as it comes from the + west still retains the name Loendi from <a name="Page_41" id= + "Page_41"></a>the south-west here, and is from 150 to 200 yards + wide, while the Rovuma above Matawatawa is from 200 to 250, full + of islands, rocks, and sandbanks. The Loendi has the same + character. We can see the confluence from where we cross about 2' + to the north. Both rivers are rapid, shoal, and sandy; small + canoes are used on them, and the people pride themselves on their + skilful management: in this the women seem in no way inferior to + the men.</p> + + <p>In looking up the Loendi we see a large granitic peak called + Nkanjé, some 20 miles off, and beyond it the dim outline + of distant highlands, in which seams of coal are exposed. Pieces + of the mineral are found in Loendi's sands.</p> + + <p>Matumora has a good character in the country, and many flee to + him from oppression. He was very polite; sitting on the right + bank till all the goods were carried over, then coming in the + same canoe wifn me himself, he opened a fish basket in a weir and + gave me the contents, and subsequently a little green sorghum. He + literally has lost all his corn, for he was obliged to flee with + his people to Marumba, a rocky island in Rovuma, about six miles + above Matawatawa. He says that both Loendi and Rovuma come out of + Lake Nyassa; a boat could not ascend, however, because many + waterfalls are in their course: it is strange if all this is a + myth. Matumora asked if the people through whose country I had + come would preserve the peace I wished. He says he has been + assailed on all sides by slave-hunters: he alone has never hunted + for captives: if the people in front should attack me he would + come and fight them: finally he had never seen a European before + (Dr. Roscher travelled as an Arab), nor could I learn where + Likumbu at Ngomano lives; it was with him that Roscher is said to + have left his goods.</p> + + <p>The Mazitu had women, children, oxen and goats with them. The + whole tribe lives on plundering the other natives by means of the + terror their shields inspire; had they gone <a name="Page_42" id= + "Page_42"></a>further down the Rovuma, no ox would have survived + the tsetse.</p> + + <p><i>20th May, 1866.</i>—I paid Ali to his entire + satisfaction, and entrusted him with a despatch, "No. 2 + Geographical," and then sent off four men south to buy food. Here + we are among Matambwé. Two of Matumora's men act as + guides. We are about 2' south and by west of the confluence + Ngomano. Lat. 11° 26' 23" S.; long. 37° 40' 52" E.</p> + + <p>Abraham, one of the Nassick boys, came up and said he had been + sent by the sepoys, who declared they would come no further. It + was with the utmost difficulty they had come so far, or that the + havildar had forced them on, they would not obey him—would + not get up in the mornings to march; lay in the paths, and gave + their pouches and muskets to the natives to carry: they make + themselves utterly useless. The black buffalo is dead; one camel + ditto, and one mule left behind ill. Were I not aware of the + existence of the tsetse, I should say they died from sheer bad + treatment and hard work.</p> + + <p>I sent a note to be read to the sepoys stating that I had seen + their disobedience, unwillingness, and skulking, and as soon as I + received the havildar's formal evidence, I would send them back. + I regretted parting with the havildar only.</p> + + <p>A leopard came a little after dark while the moon was shining, + and took away a little dog from among us; it is said to have + taken off a person a few days ago.</p> + + <p><i>22nd May, 1866.</i>—The men returned with but little + food in return for much cloth. Matumora is very friendly, but he + has nothing to give save a little green sorghum, and that he + brings daily.</p> + + <p>A south wind blows strongly every afternoon. The rains ceased + about the middle of May, and the temperature is lowered. A few + heavy night showers closed the rainy season.</p> + + <p><i>23rd—24th May, 1866.</i>—I took some Lunar + observations.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a><i>25th May, + 1866.</i>—Matumora is not Ndondé. A chief to the + south-west of this owns that name and belongs to the + Matumbwé tribe.</p> + + <p><i>26th May, 1866.</i>—I sent Musa westwards to buy + food, and he returned on the evening of 27th without success; he + found an Arab slave-dealer waiting in the path, who had bought up + all the provisions. About 11 P.M. we saw two men pass our door + with two women in a chain; one man carried fire in front, the one + behind, a musket. Matumora admits that his people sell each + other.</p> + + <p><i>27th May, 1866.</i>—The havildar and Abraham came up. + Havildar says that all I said in my note was true, and when it + was read to the sepoys they bewailed their folly, he adds that if + they were all sent away disgraced, no one would be to blame but + themselves. He brought them to Hassané's, but they were + useless, though they begged to be kept on: I may give them + another trial, but at present they are a sad incumbrance. + South-west of this the Manganja begin; but if one went by them, + there is a space beyond in the south-west without people.</p> + + <p>The country due west of this is described by all to be so + mountainous and beset by Mazitu, that there is no possibility of + passing that way. I must therefore make my way to the middle of + the Lake, cross over, and then take up my line of 1863.</p> + + <p><i>2nd June, 1866.</i>—The men sent to the + Matambwé south-east of this returned with a good supply of + grain. The sepoys won't come; they say they cannot,—a mere + excuse, v because they tried to prevail on the Nassick boys to go + slowly like them, and wear my patience out. They killed one camel + with the butt ends of their muskets, beating it till it died. I + thought of going down disarming them all, and taking five or six + of the willing ones, but it is more trouble than profit, so I + propose to start westwards on Monday the 4th, or Tuesday the 5th. + My sepoys offered <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>Ali eight + rupees to take them to the coast, thus it has been a regularly + organized conspiracy.</p> + + <p>From the appearance of the cow-buffalo, I fear the tsetse is + its chief enemy, but there is a place like a bayonet wound on its + shoulder, and many of the wounds or bruises on the camels were so + probed that I suspect the sepoys.</p> + + <p>Many things African are possessed of as great vitality in + their line as the African people. The white ant was imported + accidentally into St. Helena from the coast of Guinea, and has + committed such ravages in the town of St. James, that numerous + people have been ruined, and the governor calls out for aid + against them. In other so-called new countries a wave of English + weeds follows the tide of English emigration, and so with + insects; the European house-fly chases away the blue-bottle fly + in New Zealand. Settlers have carried the house-fly in bottles + and boxes for their new locations, but what European insect will + follow us and extirpate the tsetse? The Arabs have given the + Makondé bugs, but we have the house-fly wherever we go, + the blue-bottle and another like the house-fly, but with a sharp + proboscis; and several enormous gad-flies. Here there is so much + room for everything. In New Zealand the Norwegian rat is driven + off by even the European mouse; not to mention the Hanoverian rat + of Waterton, which is lord of the land. The Maori say that "as + the white man's rat has driven away the native rat, so the + European fly drives away our own; and as the clover kills our + fern, so will the Maori disappear before the white man himself." + The hog placed ashore by Captain Cook has now overrun one side of + the island, and is such a nuisance that a large farmer of 100,000 + acres has given sixpence per head for the destruction of some + 20,000, and without any sensible diminution; this would be no + benefit here, for the wild hogs abound and do much damage, + besides affording food for the tsetse: the brutes follow the ewes + with young, <a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>and devour the + poor lambs as soon as they make their appearance.</p> + + <p><i>3rd June, 1866.</i>—The cow-buffalo fell down foaming + at the mouth, and expired. The meat looks fat and nice, and is + relished by the people, a little glariness seemed to be present + on the foreleg, and I sometimes think that, notwithstanding the + dissimilarity of the symptoms observed in the camels and + buffaloes now, and those we saw in oxen and horses, the evil may + be the tsetse, after all, but they have been badly used, without + a doubt. The calf has a cut half an inch deep, the camels have + had large ulcers, and at last a peculiar smell, which portends + death. I feel perplexed, and not at all certain as to the real + causes of death.</p> + + <p>I asked Matumora if the Matambwé believed in God, he + replied, that he did not know Him, and I was not to ask the + people among whom I was going if they prayed to Him, because they + would imagine that I wished them to be killed. I told him that we + loved to speak about Him, &c. He said, when they prayed they + offered a little meal and then prayed, but did not know much + about Him.</p> + + <p>They have all great reverence for the Deity, and the + deliberate way in which they say "We don't know Him" is to + prevent speaking irreverently, as that may injure the country. + The name is "Mulungu": Makochera afterwards said, that "He was + not good, because He killed so many people."</p> + + <p><i>4th June, 1866.</i>—Left Ngomano. I was obliged to + tell the Nassick boys that they must either work or return, it + was absurd to have them eating up our goods, and not even + carrying their own things, and I would submit to it no more: five + of them carry bales, and two the luggage of the rest. Abraham and + Richard are behind. I gave them bales to carry, and promised them + ten rupees per month, to begin on this date. Abraham has worked + hard all along, and his <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>pay + may be due from 7th April, the day we started from Kindany.</p> + + <p><i>5th June, 1866.</i>—We slept at a village called + Lamba, on the banks of the Rovuma, near a brawling torrent of 150 + yards, or 200 perhaps, with many islands and rocks in it. The + country is covered with open forest, with patches of cultivation + everywhere, but all dried up at present and withered, partly from + drought and partly from the cold of winter. We passed a village + with good ripe sorghum cut down, and the heads or ears all laid + neatly in a row, this is to get it dried in the sun, and not + shaken out by the wind, by waving to and fro; besides it is also + more easily watched from being plundered by birds. The sorghum + occasionally does not yield seed, and is then the <i>Sorghum + saccharatum</i>, for the stalk contains abundance of sugar, and + is much relished by the natives. Now that so much has failed to + yield seed, being indeed just in flower, the stalks are chewed as + if sugar-cane, and the people are fat thereon; but the hungry + time is in store when these stalles are all done. They make the + best provision in their power against famine by planting beans + and maize in moist spots. The common native pumpkin forms a + bastard sort in the same way, but that is considered very + inferior.</p> + + <p><i>6th June, 1866.</i>—Great hills of granite are + occasionally in sight towards the north, but the trees, though + scraggy, close in the view. We left a village, called Mekosi, and + goon came to a slaving party by a sand stream. They said that + they had bought two slaves, but they had run away from them, and + asked us to remain with them; more civil than inviting. We came + on to Makochera, the principal headman in this quarter, and found + him a merry laughing mortal, without any good looks to recommend + his genial smile,—low forehead, covered with deep wrinkles; + flat nose, somewhat of the Assyrian shape; a big mouth and lean + body. He complained of the Machinga (a Waiyau <a name="Page_47" + id="Page_47"></a>tribe north of him and the Rovuma) stealing his + people. Lat. of village, 11° 22' 49" S. The river being about + 2' north, still shows that it makes a trend to the north after we + pass Ngomano. Makochera has been an elephant hunter. Few + acknowledge as a reason for slaving that sowing and spinning + cotton for clothing is painful. I waited some days for the + Nassick boys, who are behind, though we could not buy any food + except at enormous prices and long distances off.</p> + + <p><i>7th June, 1866.</i>—The havildar and two sepoys came + up with Abraham, but Richard, a Nassick boy, is still behind from + weakness. I sent three off to help him with the only cordials we + could muster. The sepoys sometimes profess inability to come on, + but it is unwillingness to encounter hardship: I must move on + whether they come or not, for we cannot obtain food here. I sent + the sepoys some cloth, and on the 8th proposed to start, but + every particle of food had been devoured the night before, so we + despatched two parties to scour the country round, and give any + price rather than want.</p> + + <p>I could not prevail on Makochera to give me a specimen of + poetry; he was afraid, neither he nor his forefathers had ever + seen an Englishman. He thought that God was not good because He + killed so many people. Dr. Roscher must have travelled as an Arab + if he came this way, for he was not known.<a name= + "FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> + + <p><i>9th June, 1866.</i>—We now left and marched through + the same sort of forest, gradually ascending in altitude as we + went west, then we came to huge masses of granite, or syenite, + with flakes peeling off. They are covered with a plant with + grassy-looking leaves and rough stalk which strips into portions + similar to what are put round candles as ornaments. <a name= + "Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>It makes these hills look light grey, + with patches of black rock at the more perpendicular parts; the + same at about ten miles off look dark blue. The ground is often + hard and stony, but all covered over with grass and plants: + looking down at it, the grass is in tufts, and like that on the + Kalahari desert. Trees show uplands. One tree of which bark cloth + is made, pterocarpus, is abundant. Timber-trees appear here and + there, but for the most part the growth is stunted, and few are + higher than thirty feet. We spent the night by a hill of the + usual rounded form, called Njeñgo. The Rovuma comes close + by, but leaves us again to wind among similar great masses. Lat. + 11° 20' 05" S.</p> + + <p><i>10th June, 1866.</i>—A very heavy march through the + same kind of country, no human habitation appearing; we passed a + dead body—recently, it was said, starved to death. The + large tract between Makochera's and our next station at Ngozo + hill is without any perennial stream; water is found often by + digging in the sand streams which we several times crossed; + sometimes it was a trickling rill, but I suspect that at other + seasons all is dry, and people are made dependent on the Rovuma + alone. The first evidence of our being near the pleasant haunts + of man was a nice little woman drawing water at a well. I had + become separated from the rest: on giving me water she knelt + down, and, as country manners require, held it up to me with + <i>both</i> hands. I had been misled by one of the carriers, who + got confused, though the rounded mass of Ngozo was plainly + visible from the heights we crossed east of it.</p> + + <p>An Arab party bolted on hearing of our approach: they don't + trust the English, and this conduct increases our importance + among the natives. Lat. 11° 18' 10" S.</p> + + <p><i>11th June, 1866.</i>—Our carriers refuse to go + further, because they say that they fear being captured here on + their return.</p> + + <p><i>12th June, 1866.</i>—I paid off the carriers, and + wait for a set <a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>from this. A + respectable man, called Makoloya, or Impandé, visited me, + and wished to ask some questions as to where I was going, and how + long I should be away. He had heard from a man who came from Ibo, + or Wibo, about the Bible, a large book which was consulted.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> + <a name="p049" id="p049"></a> <img src="images/p049.png" width= + "300" height="207" alt="Tattoo of Matambwé." title= + "Tattoo of Matambwé." /> <b>Tattoo of + Matambwé.</b> + </div> + + <p><i>13th June, 1866.</i>—Makoloya brought his wife and a + little corn, and says that his father told him that there is a + God, but nothing more. The marks on their foreheads and bodies + are meant only to give beauty in the dance, they seem a sort of + heraldic ornament, for they can at once tell by his tattoo to + what tribe or portion of tribe a man belongs. The tattoo or tembo + of the Matambwé and Upper Makondé very much + resembles the drawings of the old Egyptians; wavy lines, such as + the ancients made to signify water, trees and gardens enclosed in + squares, seem to have been meant of old for the inhabitants who + lived on the Rovuma, and cultivated also, the son takes the + tattoo of his father, and thus it has been perpetuated, though + the meaning now appears lost. The Makoa have the half or nearly + full moon, but it is, they say, all for ornament. Some blue stuff + is rubbed into the cuts (I am told it is charcoal), and the + ornament shows <a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>brightly in + persons of light complexion, who by the bye are common. The + Makondé and Matambwé file their front teeth to + points; the Machinga, a Waiyan tribe, leave two points on the + sides of the front teeth, and knock out one of the middle + incisors above and below.</p> + + <p><i>14th June, 1866.</i>—I am now as much dependent on + carriers as if I had never bought a beast of burden—but + this is poor stuff to fill a journal with. We started off to + Metaba to see if the chief there would lend some men. The + headman, Kitwanga, went a long way to convoy us; then turned, + saying he was going to get men for Musa next day. We passed near + the base of the rounded masses Ngozo and Mekanga, and think, from + a near inspection, that they are over 2000 feet above the plain, + possibly 3000 feet, and nearly bare, with only the peculiar + grassy plant on some parts which are not too perpendicular. The + people are said to have stores of grain on them, and on one the + chief said there is water; he knows of no stone buildings of the + olden time in the country. We passed many masses of ferruginous + conglomerate, and I noticed that most of the gneiss dips + westwards. The striae seem as if the rock had been partially + molten: at times the strike is north and south, at others east + and west; when we come to what may have been its surface, it is + as if the striae had been stirred with a rod while soft.</p> + + <p>We slept at a point of the Rovuma, above a cataract where a + reach of comparatively still water, from 150 to 200 yards wide, + allows a school of hippopotami to live: when the river becomes + fordable in many places, as it is said to do in August and + September, they must find it difficult to exist.</p> + + <p><i>15th June, 1866.</i>—Another three hours' march + brought us from the sleeping-place on the Rovuma to Metaba, the + chief of which, Kinazombé, is an elderly man, with a + cunning and <a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>severe cast of + countenance, and a nose Assyrian in type; he has built a large + reception house, in which a number of half-caste Arabs have taken + up their abode. A great many of the people have guns, and it is + astonishing to see the number of slave-taming sticks abandoned + along the road as the poor wretches gave in, and professed to + have lost all hope of escape. Many huts have been built by the + Arabs to screen themselves from the rain as they travelled. At + Kinazombé's the second crop of maize is ready, so the + hunger will not be very much felt.</p> + + <p><i>16th June, 1866.</i>—We heard very sombre accounts of + the country in front:—four or five days to Mtarika, and + then ten days through jungle to Mataka's town: little food at + Mtarika's, but plenty with Mataka, who is near the Lake. The + Rovuma trends southerly after we leave Ngozo, and Masusa on that + river is pointed out as south-west from Metaba, so at Ngozo the + river may be said to have its furthest northing. Masusa is + reported to be five days, or at least fifty miles, from Metaba. + The route now becomes south-west.</p> + + <p>The cattle of Africa are like the Indian buffalo, only + partially tamed; they never give their milk without the presence + of the calf or its stuffed skin, the "fulchan." The women + adjacent to Mozambique partake a little of the wild animal's + nature, for, like most members of the inferior races of animals, + they refuse all intercourse with their husbands when enceinte and + they continue this for about three years afterwards, or until the + child is weaned, which usually happens about the third year. I + was told, on most respectable authority, that many fine young + native men marry one wife and live happily with her till this + period; nothing will then induce her to continue to cohabit with + him, and, as the separation is to continue for three years, the + man is almost compelled to take up with another wife: this was + mentioned to me as one of the great evils of society. The same + absurdity prevails on the West Coast, <a name="Page_52" id= + "Page_52"></a>and there it is said that the men acquiesce from + ideas of purity.</p> + + <p>It is curious that trade-rum should form so important an + article of import on the West Coast while it is almost unknown on + the East Coast, for the same people began the commerce in both + instances. If we look north of Cape Delgado, we might imagine + that the religious convictions of the Arabs had something to do + with the matter, but the Portuguese south of Cape Delgado have no + scruples in the matter, and would sell their grandfathers as well + as the rum if they could make money by the transaction, they have + even erected distilleries to furnish a vile spirit from the fruit + of the cashew and other fruits and grain, but the trade does not + succeed. They give their slaves also rewards of spirit, or "maata + bicho" ("kill the creature," or "craving within"), and you may + meet a man who, having had much intercourse with Portuguese, may + beg spirits, but the trade does not pay. The natives will drink + it if furnished gratis. The indispensable "dash" of rum on the + West Coast in every political transaction with independent chiefs + is, however, quite unknown. The Moslems would certainly not + abstain from trading in spirits were the trade profitable. They + often asked for brandy from me in a sly way—as medicine; + and when reminded that their religion forbade it, would say, "Oh, + but we can drink it in secret."</p> + + <p>It is something in the nature of the people quite + inexplicable, that throughout the Makondé country hernia + humoralis prevails to a frightful extent; it is believed by the + natives to be the result of beer drinking, so they cannot be + considered as abstemious.</p> + + <p><i>18th June, 1866.</i>—Finding that Musa did not come + up with the goods I left in his charge, and fearing that all was + not right, we set off with all our hands who could carry, after + service yesterday morning, and in six hours' hard tramp arrived + here just in time, for a tribe of Wanindi, or <a name="Page_53" + id="Page_53"></a>Manindi, who are either Ajawas (Waiyau),<a name= + "FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> or pretended Mazitu, + had tried to cross the Rovuma from the north bank. They came as + plunderers, and Musa having received no assistance was now ready + to defend the goods. A shot or two from the people of Kitwanga + made the Wanindi desert after they had entered the water.</p> + + <p>Six sepoys and Simon had come up this length; Reuben and + Mabruki reported Richard to be dead. This poor boy was left with + the others at Lipondé, and I never saw him again. I + observed him associating too much with the sepoys; and often felt + inclined to reprove him, as their conversation is usually very + bad, but I could not of my own knowledge say so. He came on with + the others as far as Hassané or Pachassané: there + he was too weak to come further, and as the sepoys were + notoriously skulkers, I feared that poor Richard was led away by + them, for I knew that they had made many attempts to draw away + the other Nassick boys from their duty. When, however, Abraham + came up and reported Richard left behind by the sepoys, I became + alarmed, and sent off three boys with cordials to help him on: + two days after Abraham left he seems to have died, and I feel + very sorry that I was not there to do what I could. I am told now + that he never consented to the sepoy temptation: he said to + Abraham that he wished he were dead, he was so much troubled. The + people where he died were not v$ry civil to Simon.</p> + + <p>The sepoys had now made themselves such an utter nuisance that + I felt that I must take the upper hand with them, so I called + them up this morning, and asked if they knew the punishment they + had incurred by disobeying orders, and attempting to tamper with + the Nassick boys to <a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>turn them + back. I told them they not only remained in the way when ordered + to march, but offered eight rupees to Ali to lead them to the + coast, and that the excuse of sickness was nought, for they had + eaten heartily three meals a day while pretending illness. They + had no excuse to offer, so I disrated the naik or corporal, and + sentenced the others to carry loads; if they behave well, then + they will get fatigue pay for doing fatigue duty, if ill, nothing + but their pay. Their limbs are becoming contracted from sheer + idleness; while all the other men are well and getting stronger + they alone are disreputably slovenly and useless-looking. Their + filthy habits are to be reformed, and if found at their habit of + sitting down and sleeping for hours on the march, or without + their muskets and pouches, they are to be flogged. I sent two of + them back to bring up two comrades, left behind yesterday. All + who have done work are comparatively strong.</p> + + <p>[We may venture a word in passing on the subject of native + recruits, enlisted for service in Africa, and who return thither + after a long absence. All the Nassick boys were native-born + Africans, and yet we see one of them succumb immediately. The + truth is that natives; under these circumstances, are just as + liable to the effects of malaria on landing as Europeans, + although it is not often that fever assumes a dangerous form in + such cases. The natives of the interior have the greatest dread + of the illnesses which they say are sure to be in store for them + if they visit the coast.]</p> + + <p><i>19th June, 1866.</i>—I gave the sepoys light loads in + order to inure them to exercise and strengthen them, and they + carried willingly so long as the fright was on them, but when the + fear of immediate punishment wore off they began their skulking + again. One, Perim, reduced his load of about 20 lbs. of tea by + throwing away the lead in which it was <a name="Page_55" id= + "Page_55"></a>rolled, and afterwards about 15 lbs. of the tea, + thereby diminishing our stock to 5 lbs.</p> + + <p>[Dr. Livingstone's short stay in England in 1864-5 was mainly + taken up with compiling an account of his travels on the Zambesi + and Shiré: during this time his mother expired in Scotland + at a good old age. When he went back to Africa he took with him, + as part of his very scanty travelling equipment, a number of + letters which he received from friends at different times in + England, and he very often quoted them when he had an opportunity + of sending letters home. We come to an entry at this time which + shows that in these reminiscences he had not thus preserved an + unmixed pleasure. He says:—]</p> + + <p>I lighted on a telegram to-day:—"Your mother died at + noon on the 18th June."</p> + + <p>This was in 1865: it affected me not a little.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Further on + we found it called Nkonya.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> It will + be remembered that this German traveller was murdered near + Lake Nyassa. The native chiefs denounced his assassins, and + sent them to Zanzibar, where they were + executed.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Further + westward amongst the Manganja or Nyassa people the Waiyan + tribe is called "Ajawa," and we find Livingstone always + speaking of them as Ajawas in his previous explorations on + the River Rovuma. (See 'The Zambesi and its + Tributaries.')—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="fp056" id="fp056"></a> <img src="images/fp056.jpg" + width="500" height="278" alt="Slavers revenging their Losses." + title="Slavers revenging their Losses." /><br /> + <b>Slavers revenging + their Losses.</b> + </div> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><a name="Page_56" + id="Page_56"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation. + Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of + Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. + Mtarika's. Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. + Dismay of slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyan + metropolis. Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores + stolen cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and + healthiness of climate. The Waiyan people and their + peculiarities. Regrets at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's + plans.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>19th June, 1866.</i>—We passed a woman tied by the + neck to a tree and dead, the people of the country explained that + she had been unable to keep up with the other slaves in a gang, + and her master had determined that she should not become the + property of anyone else if she recovered after resting for a + time. I may mention here that we saw others tied up in a similar + manner, and one lying in the path shot or stabbed<a name= + "FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>, for she was in a + pool of blood. The explanation we got invariably was that the + Arab who owned these victims was enraged at losing his money by + the slaves becoming unable to march, and vented his spleen by + murdering them; but I have nothing more than common report in + support of attributing this enormity to the Arabs.</p> + + <p><i>20th June, 1866.</i>—Having returned to Metaba, we + were told by Kinazombé, the chief, that no one had grain + to sell but <a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>himself. He had + plenty of powder and common cloth from the Arabs, and our only + chance with him was parting with our finer cloths and other + things that took his fancy. He magnified the scarcity in front in + order to induce us to buy all we could from him, but he gave me + an ample meal of porridge and guinea-fowl before starting.</p> + + <p><i>21st June, 1866.</i>—We had difficulties about + carriers, but on reaching an island in the Rovuma, called + Chimiki, we found the people were Makoa and more civil and + willing to work than the Waiyau: we sent men back to bring up the + havildar to a very civil headman called Chirikaloma.</p> + + <p><i>22nd June, 1866.</i>—A poor little boy with prolapsus + ani was carried yesterday by his mother many a weary mile, lying + over her right shoulder—the only position he could find + ease in,—an infant at the breast occupied the left arm, and + on her head were carried two baskets. The mother's love was seen + in binding up the part when we halted, whilst the coarseness of + low civilization was evinced in the laugh with which some black + brutes looked at the sufferer.</p> + + <p><i>23rd June, 1866.</i>—The country is covered with + forest, much more open than further east. We are now some 800 + feet above the sea. The people all cultivate maize near the + Rovuma, and on islands where moisture helps them, nearly all + possess guns, and plenty of powder and fine beads,—red ones + strung on the hair, and fine blue ones in rolls on the neck, + fitted tightly like soldiers' stocks. The lip-ring is universal; + teeth filed to points.</p> + + <p><i>24th June, 1866.</i>—Immense quantities of wood are + cut down, collected in heaps, and burned to manure the land, but + this does not prevent the country having an appearance of forest. + Divine service at 8.30 A.M.; great numbers looking on. They have + a clear idea of the Supreme Being, but do not pray to Him.. Cold + south winds prevail; temp. 55°. One of the mules is very + ill—it was left with the havildar when we went back to + Ngozo, and probably remained uncovered at night, for as <a name= + "Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>soon as we saw it, illness was plainly + visible. Whenever an animal has been in their power the sepoys + have abused it. It is difficult to feel charitably to fellows + whose scheme seems to have been to detach the Nassick boys from + me first, then, when the animals were all killed, the Johanna + men, afterwards they could rule me as they liked, or go back and + leave me to perish; but I shall try to feel as charitably as I + can in spite of it all, for the mind has a strong tendency to + brood over the ills of travel. I told the havildar when I came up + to him at Metaba what I had done, and that I was very much + displeased with the sepoys for compassing my failure, if not + death; an unkind word had never passed my lips to them: to this + he could bear testimony. He thought that they would only be a + plague and trouble to me, but he "would go on and die with + me."</p> + + <p>Stone boiling is unknown in these countries, but ovens are + made in anthills. Holes are dug in the ground for baking the + heads of large game, as the zebra, feet of elephants, humps of + rhinoceros, and the production of fire by drilling between the + palms of the hands is universal. It is quite common to see the + sticks so used attached to the clothing or bundles in travelling; + they wet the blunt end of the upright stick with the tongue, and + dip it in the sand to make some particles of silica adhere before + inserting it in the horizontal piece. The wood of a certain wild + fig-tree is esteemed as yielding fire readily.</p> + + <p>In wet weather they prefer to carry fire in the dried balls of + elephants' dung which are met with—the male's being about + eight inches in diameter and about a foot long: they also employ + the stalk of a certain plant which grows on rocky places for the + same purpose.</p> + + <p>We bought a senzé, or <i>Aulacaudatus + Swindernianus</i>, which had been dried over a slow fire. This + custom of drying fish, flesh, and fruits, on stages over slow + fires, is practised very generally: the use of salt for + preservation is unknown. <a name="Page_59" id= + "Page_59"></a>Besides stages for drying, the Makondé use + them about six feet high for sleeping on instead of the damp + ground: a fire beneath helps to keep off the mosquitoes, and they + are used by day as convenient resting-places and for + observation.</p> + + <p>Pottery seems to have been known to the Africans from the + remotest times, for fragments are found everywhere, even among + the oldest fossil bones in the country. Their pots for cooking, + holding water and beer, are made by the women, and the form is + preserved by the eye alone, for no sort of machine is ever used. + A foundation or bottom is first laid, and a piece of bone or + bamboo used to scrape the clay or to smooth over the pieces which + are added to increase the roundness; the vessel is then left a + night: the next morning a piece is added to the rim—as the + air is dry several rounds may be added—and all is then + carefully smoothed off; afterwards it is thoroughly sun-dried. A + light fire of dried cow-dung, or corn-stalks, or straw, and grass + with twigs, is made in a hole in the ground for the final baking. + Ornaments are made on these pots of black lead, or before being + hardened by the sun they are ornamented for a couple or three + inches near the rim, all the tracery being in imitation of + plaited basket work.</p> + + <p>Chirikaloma says that the surname of the Makoa, to whom he + belongs, is Mirazi—others have the surname Melola or + Malola—Chimposola. All had the half-moon mark when in the + south-east, but now they leave it off a good deal and adopt the + Waiyau marks, because of living in their country. They show no + indications of being named after beasts and birds. Mirazi was an + ancestor; they eat all clean animals, but refuse the hyaena, + leopard, or any beast that devours dead men.<a name= + "FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> + + <p><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a><i>25th June, + 1866.</i>—On leaving Chirikaloma we came on to Namalo, + whose village that morning had been deserted, the people moving + off in a body towards the Matambwé country, where food is + more abundant. A poor little girl was left in one of the huts + from being too weak to walk, probably an orphan. The Arab + slave-traders flee from the path as soon as they hear of our + approach. The Rovuma is from 56 to 80 yards wide here. No food to + be had for either love or money.</p> + + <p>Near many of the villages we observe a wand bent and both ends + inserted into the ground: a lot of medicine, usually the bark of + trees, is buried beneath it. When sickness is in a village, the + men proceed to the spot, wash themselves with the medicine and + water, creep through beneath the bough, then bury the medicine + and the evil influence together. This is also used to keep off + evil spirits, wild beasts, and enemies.</p> + + <p>Chirikaloma told us of a child in his tribe which was deformed + from his birth. He had an abortive toe where his knee should have + been; some said to his mother, "Kill him;" but she replied, "How + can I kill my son?" He grew up and had many fine sons and + daughters, but none deformed like himself: this was told in + connection with an answer to my question about the treatment of + Albinoes: he said they did not kill them, but they never grew to + manhood. On inquiring if he had ever heard of cannibals, or + people with tails, he replied, "Yes, but we have always + understood that these and other monstrosities are met with only + among you sea-going people." The other monstrosities he referred + to were those who are said to have eyes behind the head as well + as in front: I have heard of them before, but then I was near + Angola, in the west.</p> + + <p>The rains are expected here when the Pleiades appear in the + east soon after sunset; they go by the same name here as further + south—Lemila or the "hoeings."</p> + + <p><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>In the route along the + Rovuma, we pass among people who are so well supplied with white + calico by the slave-trade from Kilwa, that it is quite a drug in + the market: we cannot get food for it. If we held on westwards we + should cross several rivers flowing into the Rovuma from the + southward, as the Zandulo, the Sanjenzé, the Lochiringo, + and then, in going round the north end of Nyassa, we should pass + among the Nindi, who now inhabit the parts vacated by the Mazitu, + and imitate them in having shields and in marauding. An Arab + party went into their country, and got out again only by paying a + whole bale of calico; it would not be wise in me to venture there + at present, but if we return this way we may; meanwhile we shall + push on to Mataka, who is only a few days off from the middle of + the Lake, and has abundance of provisions.</p> + + <p><i>26th June, 1866.</i>—My last mule died. In coming + along in the morning we were loudly accosted by a well-dressed + woman who had just had a very heavy slave-taming stick put on her + neck; she called in such an authoritative tone to us to witness + the flagrant injustice of which she was the victim that all the + men stood still and went to hear the case. She was a near + relative of Chirikaloma, and was going up the river to her + husband, when the old man (at whose house she was now a prisoner) + caught her, took her servant away from her, and kept her in the + degraded state we saw. The withes with which she was bound were + green and sappy. The old man said in justification that she was + running away from Chirikaloma, and he would be offended with him + if he did not secure her.</p> + + <p>I asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly tone what he + expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said, "Nothing." + Several slaver-looking fellows came about, and I felt sure that + the woman had been seized in order to sell her to them, so I gave + the captor a cloth to pay to Chirikaloma if he were offended, and + told him to say <a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>that I, + feeling ashamed to see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had + released her, and would, take her on to her husband.</p> + + <p>She is evidently a lady among them, having many fine beads and + some strung on elephant's hair: she has a good deal of spirit + too, for on being liberated she went into the old man's house and + took her basket and calabash. A virago of a wife shut the door + and tried to prevent her, as well as to cut off the beads from + her person, but she resisted like a good one, and my men thrust + the door open and let her out, but minus her slave. The other + wife—for old officious had two—joined her sister in a + furious tirade of abuse, the elder holding her sides in regular + fishwife fashion till I burst into a laugh, in which the younger + wife joined. I explained to the different headmen in front of + this village what I had done, and sent messages to Chirikaloma + explanatory of my friendly deed to his relative, so that no + misconstruction should be put on my act.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="fp062" id="fp062"></a> <img src="images/fp062.jpg" + width="500" height="271" alt="Slaves abandonned." title= + "Slaves abandonned." /><br /> + <b>Slaves abandonned.</b> + </div> + + <p>We passed a slave woman shot or stabbed through the body and + lying on the path: a group of mon stood about a hundred yards off + on one side, and another of women on the other side, looking on; + they said an Arab who passed early that morning had done it in + anger at losing the price he had given for her, because she was + unable to walk any longer.</p> + + <p><i>27th June, 1866.</i>—To-day we came upon a man dead + from starvation, as he was very thin. One of our men wandered and + found a number of slaves with slave-sticks on, abandoned by their + master from want of food; they were too weak to be able to speak + or say where they had come from; some were quite young. We + crossed the Tulosi, a stream coming from south, about twenty + yards wide.</p> + + <p>At Chenjewala's the people are usually much startled when I + explain that the numbers of slaves we see dead on the road have + been killed partly by those who sold them, <a name="Page_63" id= + "Page_63"></a>for I tell them that if they sell their fellows, + they are like the man who holds the victim while the Arab + performs the murder.</p> + + <p>Chenjewala blamed Machemba, a chief above him on the Rovuma, + for encouraging the slave-trade; I told him I had travelled so + much among them that I knew all the excuses they could make, each + headman blamed some one else.</p> + + <p>"It would be better if you kept your people and cultivated + more largely," said I, "Oh, Machemba sends his men and robs our + gardens after we have cultivated," was the reply. One man said + that the Arabs who come and tempt them with fine clothes are the + cause of their selling: this was childish, so I told them they + would very soon have none to sell: their country was becoming + jungle, and all their people who did not die in the road would be + making gardens for Arabs at Kilwa and elsewhere.</p> + + <p><i>28th June, 1866.</i>—When we got about an hour from + Chenjewala's we came to a party in the act of marauding; the + owners of the gardens made off for the other side of the river, + and waved to us to go against the people of Machemba, but we + stood on a knoll with all our goods on the ground, and waited to + see how matters would turn out. Two of the marauders came to us + and said they had captured five people. I suppose they took us + for Arabs, as they addressed Musa. They then took some green + maize, and so did some of my people, believing that as all was + going, they who were really starving might as well have a + share.</p> + + <p>I went on a little way with the two marauders, and by the + footprints thought the whole party might amount to four or five + with guns; the gardens and huts were all deserted. A poor woman + was sitting, cooking green maize, and one of the men ordered her + to follow him. I said to him, "Let her alone, she is dying." + "Yes," said he, "of hunger," and went'on without her.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>We passed village after + village, and gardens all deserted! We were now between two + contending parties. We slept at one garden; and as we were told + by Chenjewala's people to take what we liked, and my men had no + food, we gleaned what congo beans, bean leaves, and sorghum + stalks we could,—poor fare enough, but all we could + get.</p> + + <p><i>29th June, 1866.</i>—We came onto Machemba's brother, + Chimseia, who gave us food at once. The country is now covered + with deeper soil, and many large acacia-trees grow in the rich + loam: the holms too are large, and many islands afford convenient + maize grounds. One of the Nassiek lads came up and reported his + bundle, containing 240 yards of calico, had been stolen; he went + aside, leaving it on the path (probably fell asleep), and it was + gone when he came back. I cannot impress either on them or the + sepoys that it is wrong to sleep on the march.</p> + + <p>Akosakoné, whom we had liberated, now arrived at the + residence of her husband, who was another brother of Machemba. + She behaved like a lady all through, sleeping at a fire apart + from the men. The ladies of the different villages we passed + condoled with her, and she related to them the indignity that had + been done to her. Besides this she did us many services: she + bought food for us, because, having a good address, we saw that + she could get double what any of our men could purchase for the + same cloth; she spoke up for us when any injustice was attempted, + and, when we were in want of carriers, volunteered to carry a bag + of beads on her head. On arriving at Machemba's brother, + Chimseia, she introduced me to him, and got him to be liberal to + us in food on account of the service we had rendered to her. She + took leave of us all with many expressions of thankfulness, and + we were glad that we had not mistaken her position or lavished + kindness on the undeserving.</p> + + <p>One Johanna man was caught stealing maize, then another, + <a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>after I had paid for the + first. I sent a request to the chief not to make much of a + grievance about it, as I was very much ashamed at my men + stealing; he replied that he had liked me from the first, and I + was not to fear, as whatever service he could do he would most + willingly in order to save me pain and trouble. A sepoy now came + up having given his musket to a man to carry, who therefore + demanded payment. As it had become a regular nuisance for the + sepoys to employ people to carry for them, telling them that I + would pay, I demanded why he had promised in my name. "Oh, it was + but a little way he carried the musket," said he. Chimseia warned + us next morning, 30th June, against allowing any one to straggle + or steal in front, for stabbing and plundering were the rule. The + same sepoy who had employed a man to carry his musket now came + forward, with his eyes fixed and shaking all over. This, I was to + understand, meant extreme weakness; but I had accidentally + noticed him walking quite smartly before this exhibition, so I + ordered him to keep close to the donkey that carried the + havildar's luggage, and on no account to remain behind the party. + He told the havildar that he would sit down only for a little + while; and, I suppose, fell asleep, for he came up to us in the + evening as naked as a robin.</p> + + <p>I saw another person bound to a tree and dead—a sad + sight to see, whoever was the perpetrator. So many slave-sticks + lie along our path, that I suspect the people here-about make a + practice of liberating what slaves they cian find abandoned on + the march, to sell them again.</p> + + <p>A large quantity of maize is cultivated at Chimsaka's, at + whose place we this day arrived. We got a supply, but being among + thieves, we thought it advisable to move on to the next place + (Mtarika's). When starting, we found that fork, kettle, pot, and + shot-pouch had been taken. The thieves, I observed, kept up a + succession of jokes with <a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>Chuma + and Wikatani and when the latter was enjoying them, gaping to the + sky, they were busy putting the things of which he had charge + under their cloths! I spoke to the chief, and he got the three + first articles back for me.</p> + + <p>A great deal if not all the lawlessness of this quarter is the + result of the slave-trade, for the Arabs buy whoever is brought + to them and in a country covered with forest as this is, + kidnapping can be prosecuted with the greatest ease; elsewhere + the people are honest, and have a regard for justice.</p> + + <p><i>1st July, 1866.</i>—As we approach Mtarika's place, + the country becomes more mountainous and the land sloping for a + mile down to the south bank of the Rovuma supports a large + population. Some were making new gardens by cutting down trees + and piling the branches for burning; others had stored tip large + quantities of grain and were moving it to a new locality, but + they were all so well supplied with calico (Merikano) that they + would not look at ours: the market was in fact glutted by slavers + from (Quiloa) Kilwa. On asking why people were seen tied to trees + to die as we had seen them, they gave the usual answer that the + Arabs tie them thus and leave them to perish, because they are + vexed, when the slaves can walk no further, that they have lost + their money by them. The path is almost strewed with + slave-sticks, and though the people denied it, I suspect that + they make a practice of following slave caravans and cutting off + the sticks from those who fall out in the march, and thus + stealing them. By selling them again they get the quantities of + cloth we see. Some asked for gaudy prints, of which we had none, + because we knew that the general taste of the Africans of the + Interior is for strength rather than show in what they buy.</p> + + <p>The Rovuma here is about 100 yards broad, and still keeps up + its character of a rapid stream, with sandy banks and <a name= + "Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>islands: the latter are generally + occupied, as being defensible when the river is in flood.</p> + + <p><i>2nd July, 1866.</i>—We rested at Mtarika's old place; + and though we had to pay dearly with our best + table-cloths<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id= + "FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class= + "fnanchor">[14]</a> for it, we got as much as made one meal a + day. At the same dear rate we could give occasionally only two + ears of maize to each man; and if the sepoys got their comrades' + corn into their hands, they eat it without shame. We had to bear + a vast amount of staring, for the people, who are Waiyau, have a + great deal of curiosity, and are occasionally rather rude. They + have all heard of our wish to stop the slave-trade, and are + rather taken aback when told that by selling they are part and + part guilty of the mortality of which we had been unwilling + spectators. Some were dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of + their Maker they are parties to the destruction of human life + which accompanies this traffic both by sea and land. If they did + not sell, the Arabs would not come to buy. Chuma and Wakatani + render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau, most of the people + being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling of slaves. Chimseia, + Chimsaka, Mtarika, Mtendé, Makanjela, Mataka, and all the + chiefs and people in our route to the Lake, are Waiyau, or + Waiau.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> + + <p>On the southern slope down to the river there are many oozing + springs and damp spots where rice has been sown and reaped. The + adjacent land has yielded large crops of sorghum, congo-beans, + and pumpkins. Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My + appearance and acts often cause a burst of laughter; sudden + standing up produces a flight of women and children. To prevent + peeping into the hut which I occupy, and making the place quite + dark, I do my writing in the verandah. Chitané, the poodle + dog, the <a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>buffalo-calf, and our + only remaining donkey are greeted with the same amount of + curiosity and laughter-exciting comment as myself.</p> + + <p>Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard from + the different villages along the river; these are imitation + evening guns. All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing tobacco + with "nora" lime, made from burnt river shells instead of + betel-nut and lime. The women are stout, well-built persons, with + thick arms and legs; their heads incline to the bullet shape; the + lip-rings are small; the tattoo a mixture of Makoa and Waiyau. + Fine blue and black beads are in fashion, and so are arm-coils of + thick brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are worn in the hair; + the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got from the root + of an orchis called <i>Nangazu</i>.</p> + + <p><i>3rd July, 1866.</i>—A short march brought us to + Mtarika's new place. The chief made his appearance only after he + had ascertained all he could about us. The population is immense; + they are making new gardens, and the land is laid out by straight + lines about a foot broad, cut with the hoe; one goes miles + without getting beyond the marked or surveyed fields.</p> + + <p>Mtarika came at last; a big ugly man, with large mouth and + receding forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, as the + watch, revolver, breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave him a + lecture on the evil of selling his people, and he wished me to + tell all the other chiefs the same thing.</p> + + <p>They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for + having sold many who have lost their lives on their way down to + the sea-coast. We had a long visit from Mtarika next day; he gave + us meal, and meat of wild hog, with a salad made of bean-leaves. + A wretched Swaheli Arab, ill with rheumatism, came for aid, and + got a cloth. They all profess to me to be buying ivory only.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a><i>5th July, + 1866.</i>—We left for Mtendé, who is the last chief + before we enter on a good eight days' march to Mataka's; we might + have gone to Kandulo's, who is near the Rovuma, and more to the + north, but all are so well supplied with everything by + slave-traders that we have difficulty in getting provisions at + all. Mataka has plenty of all kinds of food. On the way we passed + the burnt bones of a person Avho was accused of having eaten + human flesh; he had been poisoned, or, as they said, killed by + poison (muave?), and then burned. His clothes were hung, up on + trees by the wayside as a warning to others. The country was + covered with scraggy forest, but so undulating that one could + often see all around from the crest of the waves. Great mountain + masses appear in the south and south-west. It feels cold, and the + sky is often overcast.</p> + + <p><i>6th July, 1866.</i>—I took lunars yesterday, after + which Mtendé invited us to eat at his house where he had + provided a large mess of rice porridge and bean-leaves as a + relish. He says that many Arabs pass him and many of them die in + their journeys. He knows no deaf or dumb person in the country. + He says that he cuts the throats of all animals to be eaten, and + does not touch lion or hyaena.</p> + + <p><i>7th July, 1866.</i>—We got men from Mtendé to + carry loads and show the way. He asked a cloth to ensure his + people going to the journey's end and behaving properly; this is + the only case of anything like tribute being demanded in this + journey: I gave him a cloth worth 5s. 6d. Upland vegetation + prevails; trees are dotted here and there among bushes five feet + high, and fine blue and yellow flowers are common. We pass over a + succession of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley has a + running stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full + bloom, and also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath + the flowers.</p> + + <p>When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead lining, I + only reproved him and promised him punishment <a name="Page_70" + id="Page_70"></a>if he committed any other wilful offence, but + now he and another skulked behind and gave their loads to a + stranger to carry, with a promise to him that I would pay. We + waited two hours for them; and as the havildar said that they + would not obey him, I gave Perim and the other some smart cuts + with a cane, but I felt that I was degrading myself, and resolved + not to do the punishment myself again.</p> + + <p><i>8th July, 1866.</i>—Hard travelling through a + depopulated country. The trees are about the size of hop-poles + with abundance of tall grass; the soil is sometimes a little + sandy, at other times that reddish, clayey sort which yields + native grain so well. The rock seen uppermost is often a + ferruginous conglomerate, lying on granite rocks. The gum-copal + tree is here a mere bush, and no digging takes place for the gum: + it is called Mchenga, and yields gum when wounded, as also bark, + cloth, and cordage when stripped. Mountain masses are all around + us; we sleep at Linata mountain.</p> + + <p><i>9th July, 1866.</i>—The Masuko fruit abounds: the + name is the same here as in the Batoka country; there are also + rhododendrons of two species, but the flowers white. We slept in + a wild spot, near Mount Leziro, with many lions roaring about us; + one hoarse fellow serenaded us a long time, but did nothing more. + Game is said to be abundant, but we saw none, save an occasional + diver springing away from the path. Some streams ran to the + north-west to the Lismyando, which flows N. for the Rovuma; + others to the south-east for the Loendi.</p> + + <p><i>10th and 11th July, 1866.</i>—Nothing to interest but + the same weary trudge: our food so scarce that we can only give a + handful or half a pound of grain to each person per day. The + Masuko fruit is formed, but not ripe till rains begin; very few + birds are seen or heard, though there is both food and water in + the many grain-bearing grasses and running streams, which we + cross at the junction of every two ridges. <a name="Page_71" id= + "Page_71"></a>A dead body lay in a hut by the wayside; the poor + thing had begun to make a garden by the stream, probably in hopes + of living long enough (two months or so) on wild fruits to reap a + crop of maize.</p> + + <p><i>12th July, 1866.</i>—A drizzling mist set in during + the night and continued this morning, we set off in the dark, + however, leaving our last food for the havildar and sepoys who + had not yet come up. The streams are now of good size. An Arab + brandy bottle was lying broken in one village called Msapa. We + hurried on as fast as we could to the Luatizé, our last + stage before getting to Mataka's; this stream is rapid, about + forty yards wide, waist deep, with many podostemons on the + bottom. The country gets more and more undulating and is covered + with masses of green foliage, chiefly Masuko trees, which have + large hard leaves. There are hippopotami further down the river + on its way to the Loendi. A little rice which had been kept for + me I divided, but some did not taste food.</p> + + <p><i>13th July, 1866.</i>—A good many stragglers behind, + but we push on to get food and send it back to them. The soil all + reddish clay, the roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of + many of us are weary and sore: a weary march and long, for it is + perpetually up and down now. I counted fifteen running streams in + one day: they are at the bottom of the valley which separates the + ridges. We got to the brow of a ridge about an hour from Mataka's + first gardens, and all were so tired that we remained to sleep; + but we first invited volunteers to go on and buy food, and bring + it back early next morning: they had to be pressed to do this + duty.</p> + + <p><i>14th July, 1866.</i>—As our volunteers did not come + at 8 A.M., I set off to see the cause, and after an hour of + perpetual up and down march, as I descended the steep slope which + overlooks the first gardens, I saw my friends start up at the + apparition—they were comfortably cooking porridge for + <a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>themselves! I sent men of + Mataka back with food to the stragglers behind and came on to his + town.</p> + + <p>An Arab, Sef Rupia or Rubea, head of a large body of slaves, + on his way to the coast, most kindly came forward and presented + an ox, bag of flour, and some cooked meat, all of which were + extremely welcome to half-famished men, or indeed under any + circumstances. He had heard of our want of food and of a band of + sepoys, and what could the English think of doing but putting an + end to the slave-trade? Had he seen our wretched escort, all fear + of them would have vanished! He had a large safari or caravan + under him. This body is usually divided into ten or twelve + portions, and all are bound to obey the leader to á + certain extent: in this case there were eleven parties, and the + traders numbered about sixty or seventy, who were dark coast + Arabs. Each underling had his men under him, and when I saw them + they were busy making the pens of branches in which their slaves + and they sleep. Sef came on with me to Mataka's, and introduced + me in due form with discharges of gunpowder. I asked him to come + back next morning, and presented three cloths with a request that + he would assist the havildar and sepoys, if he met them, with + food: this he generously did.</p> + + <p>We found Mataka's town situated in an elevated valley + surrounded by mountains; the houses numbered at least 1000, and + there were many villages around. The mountains were pleasantly + green, and had many trees which the people were incessantly + cutting down. They had but recently come here: they were besieged + by Mazitu at their former location west of this; after fighting + four days they left unconquered, having beaten the enemy off.</p> + + <p>Mataka kept us waiting some time in the verandah of his large + square house, and then made his appearance, smiling with his + good-natured face. He is about sixty years of age, dressed as an + Arab, and if we may judge <a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>from + the laughter with which his remarks were always greeted, somewhat + humorous. He had never seen any but Arabs before. He gave me a + square house to live in, indeed the most of the houses here are + square, for the Arabs are imitated in everything: they have + introduced the English pea, and we were pleased to see large + patches of it in full bearing, and ripe in moist hollows which + had been selected for it. The numerous springs which come out at + various parts are all made use of. Those parts which are too wet + are drained, whilst beds are regularly irrigated by water-courses + and ridges: we had afterwards occasion to admire the very + extensive draining which has been effected among the hills. + Cassava is cultivated on ridges along all the streets in the + town, which give it a somewhat regular and neat appearance. Peas + and tobacco were the chief products raised by irrigation, but + batatas and maize were often planted too: wheat would succeed if + introduced. The altitude is about 2700 feet above the sea: the + air at this time is cool, and many people have coughs.</p> + + <p>Mataka soon sent a good mess of porridge and cooked meat + (beef); he has plenty of cattle and sheep: and the next day he + sent abundance of milk. We stand a good deal of staring unmoved, + though it is often accompanied by remarks by no means + complimentary; they think that they are not understood, and + probably I do misunderstand sometimes. The Waiyau jumble their + words as I think, and Mataka thought that I did not enunciate + anything, but kept my tongue still when I spoke.</p> + + <p>Town of Matak, Moembé. <i>15th July, + 1866.</i>—The safari under Sef set off this morning for + Kilwa. Sef says that about 100 of the Kilwa people died this + year, so slaving as well as philanthropy is accompanied with loss + of life: we saw about seven of their graves; the rest died on the + road up.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>There are two roads from + this to the Lake, one to Loséwa, which is west of this, + and opposite Kotakota; the other, to Makatu, is further south: + the first is five days through deserted country chiefly; but the + other, seven, among people and plenty of provisions all the + way.</p> + + <p>It struck me after Sef had numbered up the losses that the + Kilwa people sustained by death in their endeavours to + «nslave people, similar losses on the part of those who go + to "proclaim liberty to the captives, the opening of the prison + to them that are bound,"—to save and elevate, need not be + made so very much of as they sometimes are.</p> + + <p>Soon after our arrival we heard that a number of Mataka's + Waiyau had, without his knowledge, gone to Nyassa, and in a foray + carried off cattle and people: when they came home with the + spoil, Mataka ordered all to be sent back whence they came. The + chief came up to visit me soon after, and I told him that his + decision was the best piece of news I had heard in the country: + he was evidently pleased with my approbation, and, turning to his + people, asked if they heard what I said. He repeated my remark, + and said, "You silly fellows think me wrong in returning the + captives, but all wise men will approve of it," and he then + scolded them roundly.</p> + + <p>I was accidentally spectator of this party going back, for on + going out of the town I saw a meat market opened, and people + buying with maize and meal. On inquiring, I was told that the + people and cattle there were the Nyassas, and they had + slaughtered an ox, in order to exchange meat for grain as + provisions on the journey. The women and children numbered + fifty-four, and about a dozen boys were engaged in milking the + cows: the cattle were from twenty-five to thirty head.</p> + + <p>The change from hard and scanty fare caused illness in several + of our party. I had tasted no animal food except what + turtle-doves and guinea-fowls could be shot <a name="Page_75" id= + "Page_75"></a>since we passed Matawatawa,—true, a fowl was + given by Mtendé. The last march was remarkable for the + scarcity of birds, so eight days were spent on porridge and rice + without relish.</p> + + <p>I gave Mataka a trinket, to be kept in remembrance of his + having sent back the Nyassa people: he replied that he would + always act in a similar manner. As it was a spontaneous act, it + was all the more valuable.</p> + + <p>The sepoys have become quite intolerable, and if I cannot get + rid of them we shall all starve before we accomplish what we + wish. They dawdle behind picking up wild fruits, and over our + last march (which we accomplished on the morning of the eighth + day) they took from fourteen to twenty-two days. Retaining their + brutal feelings to the last they killed the donkey which I lent + to the havildar to carry his things, by striking it on the head + when in boggy places into which they had senselessly driven it + loaded; then the havildar came on (his men pretending they could + go no further from weakness), and killed the young buffalo and + eat it when they thought they could hatch up a plausible story. + They said it had died, and tigers came and devoured it—they + saw them. "Did you see the stripes of the tiger?" said I. All + declared that they saw the stripes distinctly. This gave us an + idea of their truthfulness, as there is no striped tiger in all + Africa. All who resolved on skulking or other bad behaviour + invariably took up with the sepoys; their talk seemed to suit + evil-doers, and they were such a disreputable-looking lot that I + was quite ashamed of them. The havildar had no authority, and all + bore the sulky dogged look of people going where they were forced + but hated to go. This hang-dog expression of countenance was so + conspicuous that I many a time have heard the country people + remark, "These are the slaves of the party." They have neither + spirit nor pluck as compared with the Africans, and if one saw a + village he turned <a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>out of the + way to beg in the most abject manner, or lay down and slept, the + only excuse afterwards being, "My legs were sore." Having allowed + some of them to sleep at the fire in my house, they began a + wholesale plunder of everything they could sell, as cartridges, + cloths, and meat, so I had to eject them. One of them then + threatened to shoot my interpreter Simon if he got him in a quiet + place away from the English power. As this threat had been + uttered three times, and I suspect that something of the kind had + prevented the havildar exerting his authority, I resolved to get + rid of them by sending them back to the coast by the first + trader. It is likely that some sympathizers will take their part, + but I strove to make them useful. They had but poor and scanty + fare in a part of the way, but all of us suffered alike. They + made themselves thoroughly disliked by their foul talk and abuse, + and if anything tended more than another to show me that theirs + was a moral unfitness for travel, it was the briskness assumed + when they knew they were going back to the coast. I felt inclined + to force them on, but it would have been acting from revenge, and + to pay them out, so I forbore. I gave Mataka forty-eight yards of + calico, and to the sepoys eighteen yards, and arranged that he + should give them food till Suleiman, a respectable trader, should + arrive. He was expected every day, and we passed him near the + town. If they chose to go and get their luggage, it was of course + all safe for them behind. The havildar begged still to go on with + me, and I consented, though he is a drag on the party, but he + will count in any difficulty.</p> + + <p>Abraham recognised his uncle among the crowds who came to see + us. On making himself known he found that his mother and two + sisters had been sold to the Arabs after he had been enslaved. + The uncle pressed him to remain, and Mataka urged, and so did + another uncle, but in vain. I added my voice, and could have + given him goods to keep <a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>him + afloat a good while, but he invariably replied, "How can I stop + where I have no mother and no sister?" The affection seems to go + to the maternal side. I suggested that he might come after he had + married a wife, but I fear very much that unless some European + would settle, none of these Nassick boys will come to this + country. It would be decidedly better if they were taught + agriculture in the simplest form, as the Indian. Mataka would + have liked to put his oxen to use, but Abraham could not help him + with that. He is a smith, or rather a nothing, for unless he + could smelt iron he would be entirely without materials to work + with.</p> + + <p><i>14th-28th July, 1866.</i>—One day, calling at + Mataka's, I found as usual a large crowd of idlers, who always + respond with a laugh to everything he utters as wit. He asked, if + he went to Bombay what ought he to take to secure some gold? I + replied, "Ivory," he rejoined, "Would slaves not be a good + speculation?" I replied that, "if he took slaves there for sale, + they would put him in prison." The idea of the great Mataka in + "chokee" made him wince, and the laugh turned for once against + him. He said that as all the people from the coast crowd to him, + they ought to give him something handsome for being here to + supply their wants. I replied, if he would fill the fine + well-watered country we had passed over with people instead of + sending them off to Kilwa, he would confer a benefit on visitors, + but we had been starved on the way to him; and I then told him + what the English would do in road-making in a fine country like + this. This led us to talk of railways, ships, ploughing with + oxen—the last idea struck him most. I told him that I + should have liked some of the Nassick boys to remain and teach + this and other things, but they might be afraid to venture lest + they should be sold again. The men who listened never heard such + decided protests against selling each other into slavery + before!</p> + + <p><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>The idea of guilt probably + floated but vaguely in their minds, but the loss of life we have + witnessed (in the guilt of which the sellers as well as the + buyers participate) comes home very forcibly to their minds.</p> + + <p>Mataka has been an active hand in slave wars himself, though + now he wishes to settle down in quiet. The Waiyau generally are + still the most active agents the slave-traders have. The caravan + leaders from Kilwa arrive at a Waiyau village, show the goods + they have brought, are treated liberally by the elders, and told + to wait and enjoy themselves, slaves enough to purchase all will + be procured: then a foray is made against the Manganja, who have + few or no guns. The Waiyau who come against them are abundantly + supplied with both by their coast guests. Several of the low + coast Arabs, who differ in nothing from the Waiyau, usually + accompany the foray, and do business on their own account: this + is the usual way in which a safari is furnished with slaves.</p> + + <p>Makanjela, a Waiyau chief about a third of the way from + Mtendé's to Mataka, has lost the friendship of all his + neighbours by kidnapping and selling their people; if any of + Mataka's people are found in the district between Makanjela and + Moembé, they are considered fair game and sold. + Makanjela's people cannot piss Mataka to go to the Manganja, so + they do what they can by kidnapping and plundering all who fall + into their hands.</p> + + <p>When I employed two of Mataka's people to go back on the 14th + with food to the havildar and sepoys, they went a little way and + relieved some, but would not venture as far as the + Luatizé, for fear of losing their liberty by Makanjela's + people. I could not get the people of the country to go back; nor + could I ask the Nassick boys, who had been threatened by the + sepoys with assassination,—and it was the same with the + Johanna men, because, though Mahometans, the sepoys had called + them Caffirs, &c., and <a name="Page_79" id= + "Page_79"></a>they all declared, "We are ready to do anything for + you, but we will do nothing for these Hindis." I sent back a + sepoy, giving him provisions; he sat down in the first village, + ate all the food, and returned.</p> + + <p>An immense tract of country lies uninhabited. To the + north-east of Moembé we have at least fifty miles of as + fine land as can be seen anywhere, still bearing all the marks of + having once supported a prodigious iron-smelting and + grain-growing population. The clay pipes which are put on the + nozzles of their bellows and inserted into the furnace are met + with everywhere—often vitrified. Then the ridges on which + they planted maize, beans, cassava, and sorghum, and which they + find necessary to drain off the too abundant moisture of the + rains, still remain unlevelled to attest the industry of the + former inhabitants; the soil being clayey, resists for a long + time the influence of the weather. These ridges are very regular, + for in crossing the old fields, as the path often compels us to + do, one foot treads regularly on the ridge, and the other in the + hollow, for a considerable distance. Pieces of broken pots, with + their rims ornamented with very good imitations of basket-work, + attest that the lady potters of old followed the example given + them by their still more ancient mothers,—their designs are + rude, but better than we can make them without referring to the + original.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> + <a name="p079" id="p079"></a> <img src="images/p079.png" width= + "300" height="144" alt="Imitation of basket-work in Pottery." + title="Imitation of basket-work in Pottery." /> <b>Imitation of + basket-work in Pottery.</b> + </div> + + <p>No want of water has here acted to drive the people away, as + has been the case further south. It is a perpetual succession of + ridge and valley, with a running stream or <a name="Page_80" id= + "Page_80"></a>oozing bog, where ridge is separated from ridge: + the ridges become steeper and narrower as we approach + Mataka's.</p> + + <p>I counted fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards wide + in one day's march of about six hours; being in a hilly or rather + mountainous region, they flow rapidly and have plenty of + water-power. In July any mere torrent ceases to flow, but these + were brawling burns with water too cold (61°) for us to bathe + in whose pores were all open by the relaxing regions nearer the + coast. The sound, so un-African, of gushing water dashing over + rocks was quite familiar to our ears.</p> + + <p>This district, which rises up west of Mataka's to 3400 feet + above the sea, catches a great deal of the moisture brought up by + the easterly winds. Many of the trees are covered with lichens. + While here we had cold southerly breezes, and a sky so overcast + every day after 10 A.M., that we could take no astronomical + observations: even the latitude was too poor to be much depended + on. 12° 53' S. may have been a few miles from this.</p> + + <p>The cattle, rather a small breed, black and white in patches, + and brown, with humps, give milk which is duly prized by these + Waiyau. The sheep are the large-tailed variety, and generally of + a black colour. Fowls and pigeons are the only other domestic + animals we see, if we except the wretched village dogs which + our-poodle had immense delight in chasing.</p> + + <p>The Waiyau are far from a handsome race, but they are not the + prognathous beings one sees on the West Coast either. Their heads + are of a round shape; compact foreheads, but not particularly + receding; the alae nasi are flattened out; lips full, and with + the women a small lip-ring just turns them up to give additional + thickness. Their style of beauty is exactly that which was in + fashion when the stone deities were made in the caves of + Elephanta and Kenora near Bombay. À favourite mode of + dressing <a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>the hair into little + knobs, which was in fashion there, is more common in some tribes + than in this. The mouths of the women would not be so hideous + with a small lip-ring if they did not file their teeth to points, + but they seem strong and able for the work which falls to their + lot. The men are large, strong-boned fellows, and capable of + enduring great fatigue, they undergo a rite which once + distinguished the Jews about the age of puberty, and take a new + name on the occasion; this was not introduced by the Arabs, whose + advent is a recent event, and they speak of the time before they + were inundated with European manufactures in exchange for slaves, + as quite within their memory.</p> + + <p>Young Mataka gave me a dish of peas, and usually brought + something every time he made a visit, he seems a nice boy, and + his father, in speaking of learning to read, said he and his + companions could learn, but he himself was too old. The soil + seems very fertile, for the sweet potatoes become very large, and + we bought two loads of them for three cubits and two needles; + they quite exceeded 1 cwt. The maize becomes very large too; one + cob had 1600 seeds. The abundance of water, the richness of soil, + the available labour for building square houses, the coolness of + the climate, make this nearly as desirable a residence as + Magomero; but, alas! instead of three weeks' easy sail up the + Zambesi and Shiré, we have spent four weary months in + getting here: I shall never cease bitterly to lament the + abandonment of the Magomero mission.</p> + + <p>Moaning seems a favourite way of spending the time with some + sick folk. For the sake of the warmth, I allowed a Nassick boy to + sleep in my house; he and I had the same complaint, dysentery, + and I was certainly worse than he, but did not moan, while he + played at it as often as he was awake. I told him that people + moaned only when too ill to be <a name="Page_82" id= + "Page_82"></a>sensible of what they were doing; the groaning + ceased, though he became worse.</p> + + <p>Three sepoys played at groaning very vigorously outside my + door; they had nothing the matter with them, except perhaps + fatigue, which we all felt alike; as these fellows prevented my + sleeping, I told them quite civilly that, if so ill that they + required to groan, they had better move off a little way, as I + could not sleep; they preferred the verandah, and at once + forbore.</p> + + <p>The abundance of grain and other food is accompanied by great + numbers of rats or large mice, which play all manner of pranks by + night; white ants have always to be guarded against likewise. + Anyone who would find an antidote to drive them away would confer + a blessing; the natural check is the driver ant, which when it + visits a house is a great pest for a time, but it clears the + others out.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> There + is a double purpose in these murders; the terror inspired in + the minds of the survivors spurs them on to endure the + hardships of the march: the Portuese drivers are quite alive + to the merits of this stimulus.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> A + tribal distinction turns on the customs prevailing with + respect to animal food, <i>e.g.</i> one tribe will eat the + elephant, the next looks on such flesh as unclean, and so + with other meat. The neighbouring Manganja gladly eat the + leopard and hyaena.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> A + coloured cloth manufactured expressly for barter in East + Africa.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> This is + pronounced "Y-yow."—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><a name="Page_83" + id="Page_83"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. + The Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for + the Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The + Manganja or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to + procure passage across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English + amongst slavers. Lake shore. Blue ink. Chitané changes + colour. The Nsaka fish. Makalaosé drinks beer. The + Sanjika fish. London antiquities. Lake rivers. Mukaté's. + Lake Pamalombé. Mponda's. A slave gang. Wikatani + discovers his relatives and remains.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>28th July, 1866.</i>—We proposed to start to-day, but + Mataka said that he was not ready yet: the flour had to be + ground, and he had given us no meat. He had sent plenty of cooked + food almost every day. He asked if we would slaughter the ox he + would give here, or take it on; we preferred to kill it at once. + He came on the 28th with a good lot of flour for us, and men to + guide us to Nyassa, telling us that this was Moembé, and + his district extended all the way to the Lake: he would not send + us to Loséwa, as that place had lately been plundered and + burned.</p> + + <p>In general the chiefs have shown an anxiety to promote our + safety. The country is a mass of mountains. On leaving Mataka's + we ascended considerably, and about the end of the first day's + march, near Magola's village, the barometer showed our greatest + altitude, about 3400 feet above the sea. There were villages of + these mountaineers everywhere, for the most part of 100 houses or + more each. The springs were made the most use of that they knew; + <a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>the damp spots drained, and + the water given a free channel for use in irrigation further + down: most of these springs showed the presence of iron by the + oxide oozing out. A great many patches of peas are seen in full + bearing and flower. The trees are small, except in the hollows: + there is plenty of grass and flowers near streams and on the + heights. The mountain-tops may rise 2000 or 3000 feet above their + flanks, along which we wind, going perpetually up and down the + steep ridges of which the country is but a succession.</p> + + <p>Looking at the geology of the district, the plateaux on each + side of the Rovuma are masses of grey sandstone, capped with + masses of ferruginous conglomerate; apparently an aqueous + deposit. When we ascend the Rovuma about sixty miles, a great + many pieces and blocks of silicified wood appear on the surface + of the soil at the bottom of the slope up the plateaux. This in + Africa is a sure indication of the presence of coal beneath, but + it was not observed cropping out; the plateaux are cut up in + various directions by wadys well supplied with grass and trees on + deep and somewhat sandy soil: but at the confluence of the Loendi + highlands they appear in the far distance. In the sands of the + Loendi pieces of coal are quite common.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" + id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class= + "fnanchor">[16]</a></p> + + <p>Before reaching the confluence of the Rovuma and Loendi, or + say about ninety miles from the sea, the plateau is succeeded by + a more level country, having detached granitic masses shooting up + some 500 or 700 feet. The sandstone of the plateau has at first + been hardened, then quite metamorphosed into a chocolate-coloured + schist. As at Chilolé hill, we have igneous rocks, + apparently trap, capped with masses of beautiful white dolomite. + We still ascend in altitude as we go westwards, and come upon + long tracts of gneiss with hornblende. <a name="Page_85" id= + "Page_85"></a>The gneiss is often striated, all the striae + looking one way—sometimes north and south, and at other + times east and west. These rocks look as if a stratified rock had + been nearly melted, and the strata fused together by the heat. + From these striated rocks have shot up great rounded masses of + granite or syenite, whose smooth sides and crowns contain + scarcely any trees, and are probably from 3000 to 4000 feet above + the sea. The elevated plains among these mountain masses show + great patches of ferruginous conglomerate, which, when broken, + look like yellow haematite with madrepore holes in it: this has + made the soil of a red colour.</p> + + <p>On the watershed we have still the rounded granitic hills + jutting above the plains (if such they may be called) which are + all ups and downs, and furrowed with innumerable running rills, + the sources of the Rovuma and Loendi. The highest rock observed + with mica schist was at an altitude of 3440 feet. The same uneven + country prevails as we proceed from the watershed about forty + miles down to the Lake, and a great deal of quartz in small + fragments renders travelling-very difficult. Near the Lake, and + along its eastern shore, we have mica schist and gneiss foliated, + with a great deal of hornblende; but the most remarkable feature + of it is that the rocks are all tilted on edge, or slightly + inclined to the Lake. The active agent in effecting this is not + visible. It looks as if a sudden rent had been made, so as to + form the Lake, and tilt all these rocks nearly over. On the east + side of the lower part of the Lake we have two ranges of + mountains, evidently granitic: the nearer one covered with small + trees and lower than the other; the other jagged and bare, or of + the granitic forms. But in all this country no fossil-yielding + rock was visible except the grey sandstone referred to at the + beginning of this note. The rocks are chiefly the old crystalline + forms.</p> + + <p>One fine straight tall tree in the hollows seemed a species + <a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>of fig: its fruit was just + forming, but it was too high for me to ascertain its species. The + natives don't eat the fruit, but they eat the large grubs which + come out of it. The leaves were fifteen inches long by five + broad: they call it Unguengo.</p> + + <p><i>29th July, 1866.</i>—At Magola's village. Although we + are now rid of the sepoys, we cannot yet congratulate ourselves + on being rid of the lazy habits of lying down in the path which + they introduced. A strong scud comes up from the south bringing + much moisture with it: it blows so hard above, this may be a + storm on the coast. Temperature in mornings 55°.</p> + + <p><i>30th July, 1866.</i>—A short march brought us to + Pezimba's village, which consists of 200 houses and huts. It is + placed very nicely on a knoll between two burns, which, as usual, + are made use of for irrigating peas in winter time. The headman + said that if we left now we had a good piece of jungle before us, + and would sleep twice in it before reaching Mbanga. We therefore + remained. An Arab party, hearing of our approach, took a + circuitous route among the mountains to avoid coming in contact + with us. In travelling to Pezimba's we had commenced our western + descent to the Lake, for we were now lower than Magola's by 300 + feet. We crossed many rivulets and the Lochesi, a good-sized + stream. The watershed parts some streams for Loendi and some for + Rovuma. There is now a decided scantiness of trees. Many of the + hill-tops are covered with grass or another plant; there is + pleasure now in seeing them bare. Ferns, rhododendrons, and a + foliaged tree, which looks in the distance like silver-fir, are + met with.</p> + + <p>The Mandaré root is here called Nyumbo, when cooked it + has a slight degree of bitterness with it which cultivation may + remove. Mica schist crowned some of the heights on the watershed, + then gneiss, and now, as we descend further, we have igneous + rocks of more recent eruption, porphyry <a name="Page_87" id= + "Page_87"></a>and gneiss, with hornblende. A good deal of + ferruginous conglomerate, with holes in it, covers many spots; + when broken, it looks like yellow haematite, with black linings + to the holes: this is probably the ore used in former times by + the smiths, of whose existence we now find still more evidence + than further east.</p> + + <p><i>31st July, 1866.</i>—I had presented Pezimba with a + cloth, so he cooked for us handsomely last night, and this + morning desired us to wait a little as he had not yet sufficient + meal made to present: we waited and got a generous present.</p> + + <p>It was decidedly milder here than at Mataka's, and we had a + clear sky. In our morning's march we passed the last of the + population, and went on through a fine well-watered fruitful + country, to sleep near a mountain called Mtéwiré, + by a stream called Msapo. A very large Arab slave-party was close + by our encampment, and I wished to speak to them; but as soon as + they knew of our being near they set off in a pathless course + across country, and were six days in the wilderness.<a name= + "FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> + + <p><i>1st August, 1866.</i>—We saw the encampment of + another Arab party. It consisted of ten pens, each of which, from + the number of fires it contained, may have held from eighty to a + hundred slaves. The people of the country magnified the numbers, + saying that they would reach from this to Mataka's; but from all + I can learn, I think that from 300 to 800 slaves is the commoner + gang. This second party went across country very early this + morning. We saw the fire-sticks which the slaves had borne with + them. The fear they feel is altogether the effect of the English + name, for we have done nothing to cause their alarm.</p> + + <p><i>2nd August, 1866.</i>—There was something very + cheering to me in the sight at our encampment of yellow grass and + trees dotted over it, as in the Bechuana country. The birds were + <a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>singing merrily too, inspired + by the cold, which was 47°, and by the vicinity of some + population. Gum-copal trees and bushes grow here as well as all + over the country; but gum is never dug for, probably because the + trees were never large enough to yield the fossil gum. Marks of + smiths are very abundant and some furnaces are still standing. + Much cultivation must formerly have been where now all is + jungle.</p> + + <p>We arrived at Mbanga, a village embowered in trees, chiefly of + the euphorbia, so common in the Manganja country further south. + Kandulo, the headman, had gone to drink beer at another village, + but sent orders to give a hut and to cook for us. We remained + next day. Took lunars.</p> + + <p>We had now passed through, at the narrowest part, the hundred + miles of depopulated country, of which about seventy are on the + N.E. of Mataka. The native accounts differ as to the cause. Some + say slave wars, and assert that the Makoa from the vicinity of + Mozambique played an important part in them; others say famine; + others that the people have moved to and beyond Nyassa.<a name= + "FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> Certain it is, from + the potsherds strewed over the country, and the still remaining + ridges on which beans, sorghum, maize, and cassava, were planted, + that the departed population was prodigious. The Waiyau, who are + now in the country, came from the other side of the Rovuma, and + they probably supplanted the Manganja, an operation which we see + going on at the present day.</p> + + <p><i>4th August, 1866.</i>—An hour and a half brought us + to Miulé, a village on the same level with Mbanga; and the + chief pressing us to stay, on the plea of our sleeping two nights + in the jungle, instead of one if we left early next morning, we + consented. I asked him what had become of the very large <a name= + "Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>iron-smelting population of this + region; he said many had died of famine, others had fled to the + west of Nyassa: the famine is the usual effect of slave wars, and + much death is thereby caused—probably much more than by the + journey to the coast. He had never heard any tradition of stone + hatchets having been used, nor of stone spear-heads or arrowheads + of that material, nor had he heard of any being turned up by the + women in hoeing. The Makondé, as we saw, use wooden spears + where iron is scarce. I saw wooden hoes used for tilling the soil + in the Bechuana and Bataka countries, but never stone ones. In + 1841 I saw a Bushwoman in the Cape Colony with a round stone and + a hole through it; on being asked she showed me how it was used + by inserting the top of a digging-stick into it, and digging a + root. The stone was to give the stick weight.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> + <a name="p089" id="p089"></a> <img src="images/p089.png" width= + "300" height="234" alt= + "Digging-stick weighted with round Stone." title= + "Digging-stick weighted with round Stone." /> <b>Digging-stick + weighted with round Stone.</b> + </div> + + <p>The stones still used as anvils and sledge-hammers by many of + the African smiths, when considered from their point of view, + show sounder sense than if they were burdened with the great + weights we use. They are unacquainted with the process of + case-hardening, which, applied to certain parts of our anvils, + gives them their usefulness, and an anvil of their soft iron + would not do so well as a hard stone. It is true a small light + one might be made, but let any one see how the hammers of their + iron bevel over and round in the faces with a little work, and he + will perceive that only a wild freak would induce any sensible + native smith to make a mass equal to a sledge-hammer, and burden + himself with a weight for what can be better performed by a + stone. If people are settled, as on the coast, then they gladly + use any mass of cast iron they may find, but never <a name= + "Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>where, as in the interior, they have + no certainty of remaining any length of time in one spot.</p> + + <p><i>5th August, 1866.</i>—We left Miulé, and + commenced our march towards Lake Nyassa, and slept at the last of + the streams that flow to the Loendi. In Mataka's vicinity, N.E., + there is a perfect brush of streams flowing to that river: one + forms a lake in its course, and the sources of the Rovuma lie in + the same region. After leaving Mataka's we crossed a good-sized + one flowing to Loendi, and, the day after leaving Pezimba's, + another going to the Chiringa or Lochiringa, which is a tributary + of the Rovuma.</p> + + <p><i>6th August, 1866.</i>—We passed two cairns this + morning at the beginning of the very sensible descent to the + Lake. They are very common in all this Southern Africa in the + passes of the mountains, and are meant to mark divisions of + countries, perhaps burial-places, but the Waiyau who accompanied + us thought that they were merely heaps of stone collected by some + one making a garden. The cairns were placed just about the spot + where the blue waters of Nyassa first came fairly into view.</p> + + <p>We now came upon a stream, the Misinjé, flowing into + the Lake, and we crossed it five times; it was about twenty yards + wide, and thigh deep. We made but short stages when we got on the + lower plateau, for the people had great abundance of food, and + gave large presents of it if we rested. One man gave four fowls, + three large baskets of maize, pumpkins, eland's fat—a fine + male, as seen by his horns,—and pressed us to stay, that he + might see our curiosities as well as others. He said that at one + day's distance south of him all sorts of animals, as buffaloes, + elands, elephants, hippopotami, and antelopes, could be shot.</p> + + <p><i>8th August, 1866.</i>—We came to the Lake at the + confluence of the Misinjé, and felt grateful to That Hand + which had protected us thus far on our journey. It was as if I + had come back to an old home I never expected again to see; + <a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>and pleasant to bathe in the + delicious waters again, hear the roar of the sea, and dash in the + rollers. Temp. 71° at 8 A.M., while the air was 65°. I + feel quite exhilarated.</p> + + <p>The headman here, Mokalaosé, is a real Manganja, and he + and all his people exhibit the greater darkness of colour + consequent on being in a warm moist climate; he is very friendly, + and presented millet, porridge, cassava, and hippopotamus meat + boiled and asked if I liked milk, as he had some of Mataka's + cattle here. His people bring sanjika the best Lake fish, for + sale; they are dried on stages over slow fires, and lose their + fine flavour by it, but they are much prized inland. I bought + fifty for a fathom of calico; when fresh, they taste exactly like + the best herrings, <i>i.e.</i> as we think, but voyagers' and + travellers' appetites are often so whetted as to be incapable of + giving a true verdict in matters of taste.</p> + + <p>[It is necessary to explain that Livingstone knew of an Arab + settlement on the western shore of the Lake, and that he hoped to + induce the chief man Jumbé to give him a passage to the + other side.]</p> + + <p><i>10th August, 1866.</i>—I sent Seyed Majid's letter up + to Jumbé, but the messenger met some coast Arabs at the + Loangwa, which may be seven miles from this, and they came back + with him, haggling a deal about the fare, and then went off, + saying that they would bring the dhow here for us. Finding that + they did not come, I sent Musa, who brought back word that they + had taken the dhow away over to Jumbé at Kotakota, or, as + they pronounce it, Ngotagota. Very few of the coast Arabs can + read; in words they are very polite, but truthfulness seems very + little regarded. I am resting myself and people—working up + journal, lunars, and altitudes—but will either move south + or go to the Arabs towards the north soon.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>Mokalaosé's fears of + the Waiyau will make him welcome Jumbé here, and then the + Arab will some day have an opportunity of scattering his people + as he has done those at Kotakota. He has made Loséwa too + hot for himself. When the people there were carried off by + Mataka's people, Jumbé seized their stores of grain, and + now has no post to which he can go there. The Loangwa Arabs give + an awful account of Jumbé's murders and selling the + people, but one cannot take it all in; at the mildest it must + have been bad. This is all they ever do; they cannot form a state + or independent kingdom: slavery and the slave-trade are + insuperable obstacles to any permanence inland; slaves can escape + so easily, all therefore that the Arabs do is to collect as much + money as they can by hook and by crook, and then leave the + country.</p> + + <p>We notice a bird called namtambwé, which sings very + nicely with a strong voice after dark here at the Misinjé + confluence.</p> + + <p><i>11th August, 1866.</i>—Two headmen came down country + from villages where we slept, bringing us food, and asking how we + are treated; they advise our going south to Mukaté's, + where the Lake is narrow.</p> + + <p><i>12th-14th August, 1866.</i>—Map making; but my + energies were sorely taxed by the lazy sepoys, and I was usually + quite tired out at night. Some men have come down from Mataka's, + and report the arrival of an Englishman with cattle for me, "he + has two eyes behind as well as two in front:" this is enough of + news for awhile!</p> + + <p>Mokalaosé has his little afflictions, and he tells me + of them. A wife ran away, I asked how many he had; he told me + twenty in all: I then thought he had nineteen too many. He + answered with the usual reason, "But who would cook for strangers + if I had but one?"</p> + + <p>We saw clouds of "kungu" gnats on the Lake; they are not eaten + here. An ungenerous traveller coming here with my <a name= + "Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>statement in his hand, and finding the + people denying all knowledge of how to catch and cook them, might + say that I had been romancing in saying I had seen them made into + cakes in the northern part of the Lake; when asking here about + them, a stranger said, "They know how to use them in the north; + we do not."</p> + + <p>Mokalaosé thinks that the Arabs are afraid that I may + take their dhows from them and go up to the north. He and the + other headmen think that the best way will be to go to + Mukaté's in the south. All the Arabs flee from me, the + English name being in their minds inseparably connected with + recapturing slavers: they cannot conceive that I have any other + object in view; they cannot read Seyed Majid's letter.</p> + + <p><i>21st August, 1866.</i>—Started for the Loangwa, on + the east side of the Lake; hilly all the way, about seven miles. + This river may be twenty yards wide near its confluence; the + Misinjé is double that: each has accumulated a promontory + of deposit and enters the Lake near its apex. We got a house from + a Waiyau man on a bank about forty feet above the level of + Nyassa, but I could not sleep for the manoeuvres of a crowd of + the minute ants which infested it. They chirrup distinctly; they + would not allow the men to sleep either, though all were pretty + tired by the rough road up.</p> + + <p><i>22nd August, 1866.</i>—We removed to the south side + of the Loangwa, where there are none of these little pests.</p> + + <p><i>23rd August, 1866.</i>—Proposed to the Waiyau headman + to send a canoe over to call Jumbé, as I did not believe + in the assertions of the half-caste Arab here that he had sent + for his. All the Waiyau had helped me, and why not he? He was + pleased with this, but advised waiting till a man sent to + Loséwa should return.</p> + + <p><i>24th August, 1866.</i>—A leopard took a dog out of a + house next to ours; he had bitten a man before, but not mortally. + <a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a><i>29th August, + 1866.</i>—News come that the two dhows have come over to + Loséwa (Loséfa). The Mazitu had chased Jumbé + up the hills: had they said, on to an island, I might have + believed them.</p> + + <p><i>30th August,1866.</i>—The fear which the English have + inspired in the Arab slave-traders is rather inconvenient. All + flee from me as if I had the plague, and I cannot in consequence + transmit letters to the coast, or get across the Lake. They seem + to think that if I get into a dhow I will be sure to burn it. As + the two dhows on the Lake are used for nothing else but the + slave-trade, their owners have no hope of my allowing them to + escape, so after we have listened to various lies as excuses, we + resolve to go southwards, and cross at the point of departure of + the Shiré from the Lake. I took lunars several times on + both sides of the moon, and have written a despatch for Lord + Clarendon, besides a number of private letters.</p> + + <p><i>3rd September, 1866.</i>—Went down to confluence of + the Misinjé and came to many of the eatable insect + "kungu,"—they are caught by a quick motion of the hand + holding a basket. We got a cake of these same insects further + down; they make a buzz like a swarm of bees, and are probably the + perfect state of some Lake insect.</p> + + <p>I observed two beaches of the Lake: one about fifteen feet + above the present high-water mark, and the other about forty + above that; but between the two the process of disintegration, + which results from the sudden cold and heat in these regions, has + gone on so much that seldom is a well-rounded smoothed one seen; + the lower beach is very well marked.</p> + + <p>The strike of large masses of foliated gneiss is parallel with + the major axis of the Lake, and all are tilted on edge. Some are + a little inclined to the Lake, as if dipping to it westwards, but + others are as much inclined the opposite way, or twisted.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>I made very good blue ink + from the juice of a berry, the fruit of a creeper, which is the + colour of port wine when expressed. A little ferri carb. ammon., + added to this is all that is required.</p> + + <p>The poodle dog Chitané is rapidly changing the colour + of its hair. All the parts corresponding to the ribs and neck are + rapidly becoming red; the majority of country dogs are of this + colour.</p> + + <p>The Manganja, or Wa-nyassa, are an aboriginal race; they have + great masses of hair, and but little, if any, of the prognathous + in the profile. Their bodies and limbs are very well made, and + the countenance of the men is often very pleasant. The women are + very plain and lumpy, but exceedingly industrious in their + gardens from early morning till about 11 A.M., then from 3 P.M. + till dark, or pounding corn and grinding it: the men make twine + or nets by day, and are at their fisheries in the evenings and + nights. They build the huts, the women plaster them.</p> + + <p>A black fish, the Nsaka, makes a hole, with raised edges, + which, with the depth from which they are taken, is from fifteen + to eighteen inches, and from two to three feet broad. It is + called by the natives their house. The pair live in it for some + time, or until the female becomes large for spawning; this + operation over, the house is left.</p> + + <p>I gave Mokalaosé some pumpkin seed and peas. He took me + into his house, and presented a quantity of beer. I drank a + little, and seeing me desist from taking more, he asked if I + wished a servant-girl to "<i>pata mimba</i>." Not knowing what + was meant, I offered the girl the calabash of beer, and told her + to drink, but this was not the intention. He asked if I did not + wish more; and then took the vessel, and as he drank the girl + performed the operation on himself. Placing herself in front, she + put both hands round his waist below the short ribs, and pressing + <a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>gradually drew them round to + his belly in front. He took several prolonged draughts, and at + each she repeated the operation, as if to make the liquor go + equally over the stomach. Our topers don't seem to have + discovered the need for this.</p> + + <p><i>5th September, 1866.</i>—Our march is along the shore + to Ngombo promontory, which approaches so near to Senga or Tsenga + opposite, as to narrow the Lake to some sixteen or eighteen + miles. It is a low sandy point, the edge fringed on the + north-west and part of the south with a belt of papyrus and + reeds; the central parts wooded. Part of the south side has high + sandy dunes, blown up by the south wind, which strikes it at + right angles there. One was blowing as we marched along the + southern side eastwards, and was very tiresome. We reached + Panthunda's village by a brook called Lilolé. Another we + crossed before coming to it is named Libesa: these brooks form + the favourite spawning grounds of the sanjika and mpasa, two of + the best fishes of the Lake. The sanjika is very like our herring + in shape and taste and size; the mpasa larger every way: both + live on green herbage formed at the bottom of the Lake and + rivers.</p> + + <p><i>7th September, 1866.</i>—Chirumba's village being on + the south side of a long lagoon, we preferred sleeping on the + mainland, though they offered their cranky canoes to ferry us + over. This lagoon is called Pansangwa.</p> + + <p><i>8th September, 1866.</i>—In coming along the southern + side of Ngombo promontory we look eastwards, but when we leave it + we turn southwards, having a double range of lofty mountains on + our left. These are granitic in form, the nearer range being + generally the lowest, and covered with scraggy trees; the second, + or more easterly, is some 6000 feet above the sea, bare and + rugged, with jagged peaks shooting high into the air. This is + probably the newest range. The oldest people have felt no + earthquake, but <a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>some say that + they have heard of such things from their elders.</p> + + <p>We passed very many sites of old villages, which are easily + known by the tree euphorbia planted round an umbelliferous one, + and the sacred fig. One species here throws out strong buttresses + in the manner of some mangroves instead of sending down twiners + which take root, as is usually the ease with the tropical fig. + These, with millstones—stones for holding the pots in + cooking—and upraised clay benches, which have been turned + into brick by fire in the destruction of the huts, show what were + once the "pleasant haunts of men." No stone implements ever + appear. If they existed they could not escape notice, since the + eyes in walking are almost always directed to the ground to avoid + stumbling on stones or stumps. In some parts of the world stone + implements are so common they seem to have been often made and + discarded as soon as formed, possibly by getting better tools; + if, indeed, the manufacture is not as modern as that found by Mr. + Waller. Passing some navvies in the City who were digging for the + foundation of a house, he observed a very antique-looking vase, + wet from the clay, standing on the bank. He gave ten shillings + for it, and subsequently, by the aid of a scrubbing brush and + some water, detected the hieroglyphics "Copeland late Spode" on + the bottom of it!</p> + + <p>Here the destruction is quite recent, and has been brought + about by some who entertained us very hospitably on the + Misinjé, before we came to the confluence. The woman + chief, Ulenjelenjé, or Njelenjé, bore a part in it + for the supply of Arab caravans. It was the work of the + Masininga, a Waiyau tribe, of which her people form a part. They + almost depopulated the broad fertile tract, of some three or four + miles, between the mountain range and the Lake, along which our + course lay. It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones + scattered about every<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>where; + one would fain not notice them, but they are so striking as one + trudges along the sultry path, that it cannot be avoided.</p> + + <p><i>9th September, 1866.</i>—We spent Sunday at + Kandango's village. The men killed a hippopotamus when it was + sleeping on the shore; a full-grown female, 10 feet 9 inches from + the snout to the insertion of the tail, and 4 feet 4 inches high + at the withers. The bottom here and all along southwards now is + muddy. Many of the <i>Siluris Glanis</i> are caught equal in + length to an eleven or a twelve-pound salmon, but a great portion + is head; slowly roasted on a stick stuck in the ground before the + fire they seemed to me much more savoury than I ever tasted them + before. With the mud we have many shells: north of Ngombo + scarcely one can be seen, and there it is sandy or rocky.</p> + + <p><i>10th September, 1866.</i>—In marching southwards we + came close to the range (the Lake lies immediately on the other + side of it), but we could not note the bays which it forms; we + crossed two mountain torrents from sixty to eighty yards broad, + and now only ankle deep. In flood these bring down enormous + trees, which are much battered and bruised among the rocks in + their course; they spread over the plain, too, and would render + travelling here in the rains impracticable. After spending the + night at a very civil headman's chefu, we crossed the + Lotendé, another of these torrents: each very lofty mass + in the range seemed to give rise to one. Nothing of interest + occurred as we trudged along. A very poor headman, Pamawawa, + presented a roll of salt instead of food: this was grateful to + us, as we have been without that luxury some time.</p> + + <p><i>12th September, 1866.</i>—We crossed the rivulet + Nguena, and then went on to another with a large village by it, + it is called Pantoza Pangone. The headman had been suffering from + sore eyes for four months, and pressed me to stop and give him + medicine, which I did.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a><i>13th September, + 1866.</i>—We crossed a strong brook called Nkoré. My + object in mentioning the brooks which were flowing at this time, + and near the end of the dry season, is to give an idea of the + sources of supply of evaporation. The men enumerate the + following, north of the Misinjé. Those which are greater + are marked thus +, and the lesser ones-.</p> + + <p><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">1. Misinjé + has + canoes.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">2. Loangwa -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">3. Leséfa -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">4. Lelula -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">5. Nchamanjé + -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">6. Musumba +</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">7. Fubwé +</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">8. Chia -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">9. Kisanga +</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">10. Bweka -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">11. Chifumero + has + canoes.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">12. Loangwa -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">13. Mkoho -</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">14. Mangwelo - at N. end of + Lake.</span><br /></p> + + <p>Including the above there are twenty or twenty-four perennial + brooks and torrents which give a good supply of water in the dry + season; in the wet season they are supplemented by a number of + burns, which, though flowing now, have their mouths blocked up + with bars of sand, and yield nothing except by percolation; the + Lake rises at least four feet perpendicularly in the wet season, + and has enough during the year from these perennial brooks to + supply the Shiré's continual flow.</p> + + <p>[It will be remembered that the beautiful river Shiré + carries off the waters of Lake Nyassa and joins the Zambesi near + Mount Morambala, about ninety miles from the sea. It is by this + water-way that Livingstone always hoped to <a name="Page_100" id= + "Page_100"></a>find an easy access to Central Africa. The only + obstacles that exist are, first, the foolish policy of the + Portuguese with regard to Customs' duties at the mouth of the + Zambesi; and secondly, a succession of cataracts on the + Shiré, which impede navigation for seventy miles. The + first hindrance may give way under more liberal views than those + which prevail at present at the Court of Lisbon, and then the + remaining difficulty—accepted as a fact—will be + solved by the establishment of a boat service both above and + below the cataracts. Had Livingstone survived he would have been + cheered by hearing that already several schemes are afoot to + plant Missions in the vicinity of Lake Nyassa, and we may with + confidence look to the revival of the very enterprise which he + presently so bitterly deplores as a thing of the past, for Bishop + Steere has fully determined to re-occupy the district in which + fell his predecessor, Bishop Mackenzie, and others attached to + the Universities Mission.]</p> + + <p>In the course of this day's march we were pushed close to the + Lake by Mount Gomé, and, being now within three miles of + the end of the Lake, we could see the whole plainly. There we + first saw the Shiré emerge, and there also we first gazed + on the broad waters of Nyassa.</p> + + <p>Many hopes have been disappointed here. Far down on the right + bank of the Zambesi lies the dust of her whose death changed all + my future prospects; and now, instead of a check being given to + the slave-trade by lawful commerce on the Lake, slave-dhows + prosper!</p> + + <p>An Arab slave-party fled on hearing of us yesterday. It is + impossible not to regret the loss of good Bishop Mackenzie, who + sleeps far down the Shiré, and with him all hope of the + Gospel being introduced into Central Africa. The silly + abandonment of all the advantages of the Shiré route by + the Bishop's successor I shall ever bitterly deplore, <a name= + "Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>but all will come right some day, + though I may not live to participate in the joy, or even see the + commencement of better times.</p> + + <p>In the evening we reached the village of Cherekalongwa on the + brook Pamchololo, and were very jovially received by the headman + with beer. He says that Mukaté,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" + id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class= + "fnanchor">[19]</a> Kabinga, and Mponda alone supply the + slave-traders now by raids on the Manganja, but they go S.W. to + the Maravi, who, impoverished by a Mazitu raid, sell each other + as well.</p> + + <p><i>14th, September, 1866.</i>—At Cherekalongwa's (who + has a skin disease, believed by him to have been derived from + eating fresh-water turtles), we were requested to remain one day + in order that he might see us. He had heard much about us; had + been down the Shiré, and as far as Mosambique, but never + had an Englishman in his town before. As the heat is great we + were glad of the rest and beer, with which he very freely + supplied us.</p> + + <p>I saw the skin of a Phenembe, a species of lizard which + devours chickens; here it is named Salka. It had been flayed by a + cut up the back—body, 12 inches; across belly, 10 + inches.</p> + + <p>After nearly giving up the search for Dr. Roscher's point of + reaching the Lake—because no one, either Arab or native, + had the least idea of either Nusseewa or Makawa, the name given + to the place—I discovered it in Lesséfa, the + accentuated <i>é</i> being sounded as our <i>e</i> in + <i>set</i>. This word would puzzle a German philologist, as being + the origin of Nussewa, but the Waiyau pronounce it Loséwa, + the Arabs Lusséwa, and Roscher's servant transformed the + <i>L</i> and <i>é</i> into <i>N</i> and <i>ee</i>, hence + Nusseewa. In confirmation of this rivulet Leséfa, which is + opposite Kotakota, or, as the Arabs pronounce it, Nkotakota, the + chief is Mangkaka (Makawa), or as there is a confusion of names + as to chief it may be Mataka, <a name="Page_102" id= + "Page_102"></a>whose town and district is called Moembé, + the town Pamoembe = Mamemba.</p> + + <p>I rest content with Kingomango so far verifying the place at + which he arrived two months after we had discovered Lake Nyassa. + He deserved all the credit due to finding the way thither, but he + travelled as an Arab, and no one suspected him to be anything + else. Our visits have been known far and wide, and great + curiosity excited; but Dr. Roscher merits the praise only of + preserving his <i>incognito</i> at a distance from Kilwa: his is + almost the only case known of successfully assuming the Arab + guise—Burckhardt is the exception. When Mr. Palgrave came + to Muscat, or a town in Oman where our political agent Col. + Desborough was stationed, he was introduced to that functionary + by an interpreter as Hajee Ali, &c. Col. Desborough replied, + "You are no Hajee Ali, nor anything else but Gifford Palgrave, + with whom I was schoolfellow at the Charter House." Col. + Desborough said he knew him at once, from a peculiar way of + holding his head, and Palgrave begged him not to disclose his + real character to his interpreter, on whom, and some others, he + had been imposing. I was told this by Mr. Dawes, a Lieutenant in + the Indian navy, who accompanied Colonel Pelly in his visit to + the Nejed, Riad, &c, and took observations for him.</p> + + <p><i>Tañgaré</i> is the name of a rather handsome + bean, which possesses intoxicating qualities. To extract these it + is boiled, then peeled, and new water supplied: after a second + and third boiling it is pounded, and the meal taken to the river + and the water allowed to percolate through it several times. + Twice cooking still leaves the intoxicating quality; but if eaten + then it does not cause death: it is curious that the natives do + not use it expressly to produce intoxication. When planted near a + tree it grows all over it, and yields abundantly: the skin of the + pod is velvety, like our broad beans.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>Another bean, with a + pretty white mark on it, grows freely, and is easily cooked, and + good: it is here called <i>Gwingwiza</i>.</p> + + <p><i>15th September, 1866.</i>—We were now a short + distance south of the Lake, and might have gone west to Mosauka's + (called by some Pasauka's) to cross the Shiré there, but I + thought that my visit to Mukaté's, a Waiyau chief still + further south, might do good. He, Mponda, and Kabinga, are the + only three chiefs who still carry on raids against the Manganja + at the instigation of the coast Arabs, and they are now sending + periodical marauding parties to the Maravi (here named Malola) to + supply the Kilwa slave-traders. We marched three hours + southwards, then up the hills of the range which flanks all the + lower part of the Lake. The altitude of the town is about 800 + feet above the Lake. The population near the chief is large, and + all the heights as far as the eye can reach are crowned with + villages. The second range lies a few miles off, and is covered + with trees as well as the first, the nearest high mass is + Mañgoché. The people live amidst plenty. All the + chiefs visited by the Arabs have good substantial square houses + built for their accommodation. Mukaté never saw a European + before, and everything about us is an immense curiosity to him + and to his people. We had long visits from him. He tries to + extract a laugh out of every remark. He is darker than the + generality of Waiyau, with a full beard trained on the chin, as + all the people hereabouts have—Arab fashion. The courts of + his women cover a large space, our house being on one side of + them. I tried to go out that way, but wandered, so the ladies + sent a servant to conduct me out in the direction I wished to go, + and we found egress by passing through some huts with two doors + in them.</p> + + <p><i>16th September, 1866.</i>—At Mukaté's. The + Prayer Book does not give ignorant persons any idea of an unseen + Being <a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>addressed, it looks + more like reading or speaking to the book: kneeling and praying + with eyes shut is better than, our usual way of holding Divine + service.</p> + + <p>We had a long discussion about the slave-trade. The Arabs have + told the chief that our object in capturing slavers is to get + them into our own possession, and make them of our own religion. + The evils which we have seen—the skulls, the ruined + villages, the numbers who perish on the way to the coast and on + the sea, the wholesale murders committed by the Waiyau to build + up Arab villages elsewhere—these things Mukaté often + tried to turn off with a laugh, but our remarks are safely lodged + in many hearts. Next day, as we went along, our guide + spontaneously delivered their substance to the different villages + along our route. Before we reached him, a headman, in convoying + me a mile or two, whispered to me, "Speak to Mukaté to + give his forays up."</p> + + <p>It is but little we can do, but we lodge a protest in the + heart against a vile system, and time may ripen it. Their great + argument is, "What could we do without Arab cloth?" My answer is, + "Do what you did before the Arabs came into the country." At the + present rate of destruction of population, the whole country will + soon be a desert.</p> + + <p>An earthquake happened here last year, that is about the end + of it or beginning of this (the crater on the Grand. Comoro + Island smoked for three months about that time); it shook all the + houses and everything, but they observed no other + effects.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> No hot springs are + known here.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a><i>17th September, + 1866.</i>—We marched down from Mukaté's and to about + the middle of the Lakelet Pamalombé. Mukaté had no + people with canoes near the usual crossing place, and he sent a + messenger to see that we were fairly served. Here we got the + Manganja headmen to confess that an earthquake had happened; all + the others we have inquired of have denied it; why, I cannot + conceive. The old men said that they had felt earthquakes twice, + once near sunset and the next time at night—they shook + everything, and were accompanied with noise, and all the fowls + cackled; there was no effect on the Lake observed. They profess + ignorance of any tradition of the water having stood higher. + Their traditions say that they came originally from the west, or + west north-west, which they call "Maravi;" and that their + forefathers taught them to make nets and kill fish. They have no + trace of any teaching by a higher instructor; no carvings or + writings on the rocks; and they never heard of a book until we + came among them. Their forefathers never told them that after or + at death they went to God, but they had heard it said of such a + one who died, "God took him."</p> + + <p><i>18th September, 1866.</i>—We embarked the whole party + in eight canoes, and went up the Lake to the point of junction + between it and the prolongation of Nyassa above it, called + Massangano ("meetings"), which took us two hours. A fishing party + there fled on seeing us, though we shouted that we were a + travelling party (or "Olendo ").</p> + + <p>Mukaté's people here left us, and I walked up to the + village of the fugitives with one attendant only. Their + suspicions were so thoroughly aroused that they would do nothing. + The headman (Pima) was said to be absent; they could not lend us + a hut, but desired us to go on to Mponda's. We put up a shed for + ourselves, and next morning, though we pressed them for a guide, + no one would come.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>From Pima's village we + had a fine view of Pamalombé and the range of hills on its + western edge, the range which flanks the lower part of + Nyassa,—on part of which Mukaté lives,—the gap + of low land south of it behind which Shirwa Lake lies, and + Chikala and Zomba nearly due south from us. People say + hippopotami come from Lake Shirwa into Lake Nyassa. There is a + great deal of vegetation in Pamalombé, gigantic rushes, + duckweed, and great quantities of aquatic plants on the bottom; + one slimy translucent plant is washed ashore in abundance. Fish + become very fat on these plants; one called "kadiakola" I eat + much of; it has a good mass of flesh on it.</p> + + <p>It is probable that the people of Lake Tanganyika and Nyassa, + and those on the Rivers Shiré and Zambesi, are all of one + stock, for the dialects vary very little.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" + id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class= + "fnanchor">[21]</a> I took observations on this point. An Arab + slave-party, hearing of us, decamped.</p> + + <p><i>19th September, 1866.</i>—When we had proceeded a + mile this morning we came to 300 or 400 people making salt on a + plain impregnated with it. They lixiviate the soil and boil the + water, which has filtered through a bunch of grass in a hole in + the bottom of a pot, till all is evaporated and a mass of salt + left. We held along the plain till we came to Mponda's, a large + village, with a stream running past. The plain at the village is + very fertile, and has many large trees on it. The cattle of + Mponda are like fatted Madagascar beasts, and the hump seems as + if it would weigh 100 lbs.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id= + "FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class= + "fnanchor">[22]</a> The size of body is so enormous that their + legs, as remarked by our men, seemed very small. Mponda is a + blustering sort of person, but immensely interested in <a name= + "Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>everything European. He says that he + would like to go with me. "Would not care though he were away ten + years." I say that he may die in the journey.—"He will die + here as well as there, but he will see all the wonderful doings + of our country." He knew me, having come to the boat, to take a + look <i>incognito</i> when we were here formerly.</p> + + <p>We found an Arab slave-party here, and went to look at the + slaves; seeing this; Mponda was alarmed lest we should proceed to + violence in his town, but I said to him that we went to look + only. Eighty-five slaves were in a pen formed of dura stalks + <i>(Holcus sorghum</i>). The majority were boys of about eight or + ten years of age; others were grown men and women. Nearly all + were in the taming-stick; a few of the younger ones were in + thongs, the thong passing round the neck of each. Several pots + were on the fires cooking dura and beans. A crowd went with us, + expecting a scene, but I sat down, and asked a few questions + about the journey, in front. The slave-party consisted of five or + six half-caste coast Arabs, who said that they came from + Zanzibar; but the crowd made such a noise that we could not hear + ourselves speak. I asked if they had any objections to my looking + at the slaves, the owners pointed out the different slaves, and + said that after feeding them, and accounting for the losses in + the way to the coast, they made little by the trip. I suspect + that the gain is made by those who ship them to the ports of + Arabia, for at Zanzibar most of the younger slaves we saw went at + about seven dollars a head. I said to them it was a bad business + altogether. They presented fowls to me in the evening.</p> + + <p><i>20th September, 1866.</i>—The chief begged so hard + that I would stay another day and give medicine to a sick child, + that I consented. He promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest + of his sincerity, sent an immense pot of beer in the evening. The + child had been benefited by the medicine <a name="Page_108" id= + "Page_108"></a>given yesterday. He offered more food than we + chose to take.</p> + + <p>The agricultural class does not seem to be a servile one: all + cultivate, and the work is esteemed. The chief was out at his + garden when we arrived, and no disgrace is attached to the field + labourer. The slaves very likely do the chief part of the work, + but all engage in it, and are proud of their skill. Here a great + deal of grain is raised, though nearly all the people are Waiyau + or Machinga. This is remarkable, as they have till lately been + marauding and moving from place to place. The Manganja possessed + the large breed of humped cattle which fell into the hands of the + Waiyau, and knew how to milk them. Their present owners never + milk them, and they have dwindled into a few instead of the + thousands of former times.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id= + "FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class= + "fnanchor">[23]</a></p> + + <p>A lion killed a woman early yesterday morning, and ate most of + her undisturbed.</p> + + <p>It is getting very hot; the ground to the feet of the men + "burns like fire" after noon, so we are now obliged to make short + marches, and early in the morning chiefly.</p> + + <p>Wikatani—Bishop Mackenzie's favourite boy—met a + brother here, and he finds that he has an elder brother and a + sister at Kabinga's. The father who sold him into slavery is + dead. He wishes to stop with his relatives, and it will be well + if he does. Though he has not much to say, what he does advance + against the slave-trade will have its weight, and it will all be + in the way of preparation for better times and more light.</p> + + <p>The elder brother was sent for, but had not arrived when + <a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>it was necessary for us to + leave Mponda's on the Rivulet Ntemangokwé. I therefore + gave Wikatani some cloth, a flint gun instead of the percussion + one he carried, some flints, paper to write upon, and commended + him to Mponda's care till his relatives arrived. He has lately + shown a good deal of levity, and perhaps it is best that he + should have a touch of what the world is in reality.</p> + + <p>[In a letter written about this time Dr. Livingstone, in + speaking of Wikatani, says, "He met with a brother, and found + that he had two brothers and one or two sisters living down at + the western shore of Lake Pamelombé under Kabinga. He + thought that his relatives would not again sell him. I had asked + him if he wished to remain, and he at once said yes, so I did not + attempt to dissuade him: his excessive levity will perhaps be + cooled by marriage. I think he may do good by telling some of + what he has seen and heard. I asked him if he would obey an order + from his chief to hunt the Manganja, and he said, 'No.' I hope he + won't. In the event of any mission coming into the country of + Mataka, he will go there. I gave him paper to write to + you,<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> and, commending him + to the chiefs, bade the poor boy farewell. I was sorry to part + with him, but the Arabs tell the Waiyau chiefs that our object in + liberating slaves is to make them our own and turn them to our + religion. I had declared to them, through Wikatani as + interpreter, that they never became our slaves, and were at + liberty to go back to their relatives if they liked; and now it + was impossible to object to Wikatani going without stultifying my + own statements." It is only necessary to repeat that Wikatani and + Chuma had been liberated from the slavers by Dr. Livingstone and + Bishop Mackenzie in 1861; they were mere children when set + free.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>We must not forget to + record the fact that when Mr. Young reached Maponda, two years + afterwards, to ascertain whether the Doctor really had been + murdered, as Musa declared, he was most hospitably received by + the chief, who had by this time a great appreciation of + everything English.]</p> + + <p>The lines of tattoo of the different tribes serve for + ornaments, and are resorted to most by the women; it is a sort of + heraldry closely resembling the Highland tartans.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p110" id="p110"></a> <img src="images/p110.jpg" width= + "400" height="358" alt="Manganja and Machinga women." title= + "Manganja and Machinga women." /><br /> + <b>Manganja and Machinga + women.</b> + </div> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Coal + was shown to a group of natives when first the <i>Pioneer</i> + ascended the river Shiré. Members of numerous tribes + were present, and all recognised it at once as Makala or + coal.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Dr. + Livingstone heard this subsequently when at Casembe's.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The + greater part were driven down into the Manganja country by + war and famine combined, and eventually filled the slave + gangs of the Portuguese, whose agents went from Tette and + Senna to procure them.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> + Pronounced Mkata by the Waiyau.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> + Earthquakes are by no means uncommon. A slight shock was felt + in 1861 at Magomero; on asking the natives if they knew the + cause of it, they replied that on one occasion, after a very + severe earthquake which shook boulders off the mountains, all + the wise men of the country assembled to talk about it and + came to the following conclusion, that a star had fallen from + heaven into the sea, and that the bubbling caused the whole + earth to rock; they said the effect was the same as that + caused by throwing, a red-hot stone into a pot of + water.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The + Waiyau language differs very much from the Nyassa, and is + exceedingly difficult to master: it holds good from the coast + to Nyassa, but to the west of the Lake the Nyassa tongue is + spoken over a vast tract.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> We + shall see that more to the north the hump entirely + disappears.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> It is + very singular to witness the disgust with which the idea of + drinking milk is received by most of these tribes when we + remember that the Caffre nations on the south, and again, + tribes more to the north, subsist principally on it. A lad + will undergo punishment rather than milk a goat. Eggs are + likewise steadily eschewed.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> To + myself.—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><a name="Page_111" id= + "Page_111"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The + discomfited chief. Beaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. + Description of Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the + Johanna men desert. Beaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing + the Doctor once more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his + experience of Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. + Kimsusa solves the transport difficulty nobly. Another old + fishing acquaintance. Description of the people and country on + the west of the Lake. The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An + African Sir Colin Campbell. Milandos.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>21st September, 1866.</i>—We marched westwards, + making across the base of Cape Maclear. Two men employed as + guides and carriers, went along grumbling that their dignity was + so outraged by working—"only fancy Waiyau carrying like + slaves!!" They went but a short distance, and took advantage of + my being in front to lay down the loads, one of which consisted + of the havildar's bed and cooking things; here they opened the + other bundle and paid themselves—the gallant havildar + sitting and looking on. He has never been of the smallest use, + and lately has pretended to mysterious pains in his feet; no + swelling or other symptom accompanied this complaint. On coming + to Pima's village he ate a whole fowl and some fish for supper, + slept soundly till daybreak, then on awaking commenced a furious + groaning—"feet were so bad." I told him that people usually + moaned when insensible, but he had kept quiet till he awaked; he + sulked at this, and remained all day, though I sent a man to + carry his kit for him, and when he came <a name="Page_112" id= + "Page_112"></a>up he had changed the seat of his complaint from + his feet to any part of his abdomen. He gave off his gun-belt and + pouch to the carrier. This was a blind to me, for I examined and + found that he had already been stealing and selling his + ammunition: this is all preparatory to returning to the coast + with some slave-trader. Nothing can exceed the ease and grace + with which sepoys can glide from a swagger into the most abject + begging of food from the villagers. He has remained behind.</p> + + <p><i>22nd September, 1866.</i>—The hills we crossed were + about 700 feet above Nyassa, generally covered with trees; no + people were seen. We slept by the brook Sikoché. Rocks of + hardened sandstone rested on mica schist, which had an + efflorescence of alum on it, above this was dolomite; the hills + often capped with it and oak-spar, giving a snowy appearance. We + had a Waiyau party with us—six handsomely-attired women + carried huge pots of beer for their husbands, who very liberally + invited us to partake. After seven hours' hard travelling we came + to the village, where we spend Sunday by the torrent Usangazi, + and near a remarkable mountain, Namasi. The chief, a one-eyed + man, was rather coy—coming <i>incognito</i> to visit us; + and, as I suspected that he was present, I asked if the chief + were an old woman, afraid to look at and welcome a stranger? All + burst into a laugh, and looked at him, when he felt forced to + join in it, and asked what sort of food we liked best. Chuma put + this clear enough by saying, "He eats everything eaten by the + Waiyau." This tribe, or rather the Machinga, now supersede the + Manganja. We passed one village of the latter near this, a sad, + tumble-down affair, while the Waiyau villages are very neat, with + handsome straw or reed fences all around their huts.</p> + + <p><i>24th September, 1866.</i>—We went only 2-1/2 miles to + the village of Marenga, a very large one, situated at the eastern + edge of the bottom of the heel of the Lake. The chief is ill + <a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>of a loathsome disease + derived direct from the Arabs. Raised patches of scab of circular + form disfigure the face and neck as well as other parts. His + brother begged me to see him and administer some remedy for the + same complaint. He is at a village a little way off, and though + sent for, was too ill to come or to be carried. The tribe is of + Babisa origin. Many of these people had gone to the coast as + traders, and returning with arms and ammunition joined the Waiyau + in their forays on the Manganja, and eventually set themselves up + as an independent tribe. The women do not wear the lip-ring, + though the majority of them are Waiyau. They cultivate largely, + and have plenty to eat. They have cattle, but do not milk + them.</p> + + <p>The bogs, or earthen sponges,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id= + "FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class= + "fnanchor">[25]</a> of this country occupy a most important part + in its physical geography, and probably explain the annual + inundations of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sloping + towards a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, there + we have the conditions requisite for the formation of an African + sponge. The vegetation, not being of a heathy or peat-forming + kind, falls down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many + cases a mass of this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a + bed of pure river sand, which is revealed by crabs and other + aquatic animals bringing it to the surface. At present, in the + dry season, the black loam is cracked in all directions, and the + cracks are often as much as three inches wide, and very deep. The + whole surface has now fallen down, and rests on the sand, but + when the rains come, the first supply is nearly all absorbed in + the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, and floats on the + sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a + landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that <a name="Page_114" + id="Page_114"></a>spot. All the pools in the lower portion of + this spring-course are filled by the first rains, which happen + south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over any spot. + The second, or greater rains, happen in his course north again, + when all the bogs and river-courses being wet, the supply runs + off, and forms the inundation: this was certainly the case as + observed on the Zambesi and Shiré, and, taking the + different times for the sun's passage north of the equator, it + explains the inundation of the Nile.</p> + + <p><i>25th September, 1866.</i>—Marenga's town on the west + shore of Lake Nyassa is very large, and his people collected in + great numbers to gaze at the stranger. The chief's brother asked + a few questions, and I took the occasion to be a good one for + telling him something about the Bible and the future state. The + men said that their fathers had never told them aught about the + soul, but they thought that the whole man rotted and came to + nothing. What I said was very nicely put by a volunteer + spokesman, who seemed to have a gift that way, for all listened + most attentively, and especially when told that our Father in + heaven loved all, and heard prayers addressed to Him.</p> + + <p>Marenga came dressed in a red-figured silk shawl, and attended + by about ten court beauties, who spread a mat for him, then a + cloth above, and sat down as if to support him. He asked me to + examine his case inside a hut. He exhibited his loathsome skin + disease, and being blacker than his wives, the blotches with + which he was covered made him appear very ugly. He thought that + the disease was in the country before Arabs came. Another new + disease acquired from them was the small-pox.</p> + + <p><i>26th September, 1866.</i>—An Arab passed us + yesterday, his slaves going by another route across the base of + Cape Maclear. He told Musa that all the country in front was full + of Mazitu; that forty-four Arabs and their followers had been + killed by them at Kasungu, and he only escaped. Musa <a name= + "Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>and all the Johanna men now declared + that they would go no farther. Musa said, "No good country that; + I want to go back to Johanna to see my father and mother and + son." I took him to Marenga, and asked the chief about the + Mazitu. He explained that the disturbance was caused by the + Manganja finding that Jumbé brought Arabs and ammunition + into the country every year, and they resented it in consequence; + they would not allow more to come, because they were the + sufferers, and their nation was getting destroyed.</p> + + <p>I explained to Musa that we should avoid the Mazitu: Marenga + added, "There are no Mazitu near where you are going;" but Musa's + eyes <i>stood out</i> with terror, and he said, "I no can believe + that man." But I inquired, "How can you believe the Arab so + easily?" Musa answered, "I ask him to tell me true, and he say + true, true," &c.</p> + + <p>When we started, all the Johanna men walked off, leaving the + goods on the ground. They have been such inveterate thieves that + I am not sorry to get rid of them; for though my party is now + inconveniently small, I could not trust them with flints in their + guns, nor allow them to remain behind, for their object was + invariably to plunder their loads.</p> + + <p>[Here then we have Livingstone's account of the origin of that + well-told story, which at first seemed too true. How Mr. Edward + Young, R.N., declared it to be false, and subsequently proved it + untrue, is already well known. This officer's quick voyage to + Lake Nyassa reflected the greatest credit on him, and all hearts + were filled with joy when he returned and reported the tale of + Livingstone's murder to be merely an invention of Musa and his + comrades.]</p> + + <p>I ought to mention that the stealing by the Johanna men was + not the effect of hunger; it attained its height <a name= + "Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>when we had plenty. If one remained + behind, we knew his object in delaying was stealing. He gave what + he filched to the others, and Musa shared the dainties they + bought with the stolen property. When spoken to he would say, "I + every day tell Johanna men no steal Doctor's things." As he came + away and left them in the march, I insisted out his bringing up + all his men; this he did not relish, and the amount stolen was + not small. One stole fifteen pounds of fine powder, another + seven, another left six table-cloths out of about twenty-four; + another called out to a man to bring a fish, and he would buy it + with beads, the beads being stolen, and Musa knew it all and + connived at it; but it was terror that drove him away at + last.</p> + + <p>With our goods in canoes we went round the bottom of the heel + of Nyassa, slept among reeds, and next morning (27th) landed at + Msangwa, which is nearly opposite Kimsusa's, or Katosa's, as the + Makololo called him. A man had been taken off by a crocodile last + night; he had been drinking beer, and went down to the water to + cool himself, where he lay down, and the brute seized him. The + water was very muddy, being stirred up by an east wind, which + lashed the waves into our canoes, and wetted our things. The loud + wail of the women is very painful to hear; it sounds so + dolefully.</p> + + <p><i>28th, September, 1866.</i>—We reached Kinisusa's, + below Mount Mulundini, of Kirk's range.<a name="FNanchor_26_26" + id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class= + "fnanchor">[26]</a> The chief was absent, but he was sent for + immediately: his town has much increased since I saw it last.</p> + + <p><i>29th September, 1866.</i>—Another Arab passed last + night, with the tale that his slaves had all been taken from him + by the Mazitu. It is more respectable to be robbed by them than + by the Manganja, who are much despised and counted <a name= + "Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>nobodies. I propose to go west of + this among the Maravi until quite away beyond the disturbances, + whether of Mazitu or Manganja.</p> + + <p><i>30th September, 1866.</i>—We enjoy our Sunday here. + We have-abundance of food from Kimsusa's wife. The chief wished + me to go alone and enjoy his drinking bout, and then we could + return to this place together; but this was not to my taste.</p> + + <p><i>1st October, 1866.</i>—Kimsusa, or Mehusa, came this + morning, and seemed very glad again to see his old friend. He + sent off at once to bring an enormous ram, which had either + killed or seriously injured a man. The animal came tied to a pole + to keep him off the man who held it, while a lot more carried + him. He was prodigiously fat;<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id= + "FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class= + "fnanchor">[27]</a> this is a true African way of showing + love—plenty of fat and beer. Accordingly the chief brought + a huge basket of "pombe," the native beer, and another of + "nsima," or porridge, and a pot of cooked meat; to these were + added a large basket of maize. So much food had been brought to + us, that we had at last to explain that we could not carry + it.</p> + + <p>[The Doctor states a fact in the next few lines which shows + that the Africans readily profit by advice which appeals to their + common sense, and we make this observation in full knowledge of + similar instances.]</p> + + <p>Kimsusa says that they felt earthquakes at the place Mponda + now occupies, but none where he is now. He confirms the tradition + that the Manganja came from the west or W.N.W. He speaks more + rationally about the Deity than some have done, and adds, that it + was by following the <a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>advice + which I gave him the last time I saw him, and not selling his + people, that his village is now three times its former size. He + has another village besides, and he was desirous that I should + see that too; that was the reason he invited me to come, but the + people would come and visit me.</p> + + <p><i>2nd October, 1866.</i>—Kimsusa made his appearance + early with a huge basket of beer, 18 inches high and 15 inches in + diameter. He served it out for a time, taking deep draughts + himself, becoming extremely loquacious in consequence. He took us + to a dense thicket behind his town, among numbers of lofty trees, + many of which I have seen nowhere else; that under which we sat + bears a fruit in clusters, which is eatable, and called + "<i>Mbedwa</i>." A space had been cleared, and we were taken to + this shady spot as the one in which business of importance and + secrecy is transacted. Another enormous basket of beer was + brought here by his wives, but there was little need for it, for + Kimsusa talked incessantly, and no business was done.</p> + + <p><i>3rd October, 1866.</i>—The chief came early, and + sober. I rallied him on his previous loquacity, and said one + ought to find time in the morning if business was to be done: he + took it in good part, and one of his wives joined in bantering + him. She is <i>the</i> wife and the mother of the sons in whom he + delights, and who will succeed him. I proposed to him to send men + with me to the Babisa country, and I would pay them there, where + they could buy ivory for him with the pay, and, bringing it back, + he would be able to purchase clothing without selling his people. + He says that his people would not bring the pay or anything else + back. When he sends to purchase ivory he gives the price to Arabs + or Babisa, and they buy for him and conduct his business + honestly; but his people, the Manganja, cannot be trusted: this + shows a remarkable state of distrust, and, from previous + information, it is probably true.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>A party of the Arab + Khambuiri's people went up lately to the Maravi country above + this, and immediately west of Kirk's range, to purchase slaves: + but they were attacked by the Maravi, and dispersed with + slaughter: this makes Kimsusa's people afraid to venture there. + They had some quarrel with the Maravi also of their own, and no + intercourse now took place. A path further south was followed by + Mponda lately, and great damage done, so it would not be wise to + go on his footsteps. Kimsusa said he would give me carriers to go + up to the Maravi, but he wished to be prepaid: to this I agreed, + but even then he could not prevail on anyone to go. He then sent + for an old Mobisa man, who has a village under him, and + acknowledges Kimsusa's power. He says that he fears that, should + he force his Manganja to go, they would leave us on the road, or + run away on the first appearance of danger; but this Mobisa man + would be going to his own country, and would stick by us. + Meanwhile the chief overstocks us with beer and other food.</p> + + <p><i>4th October, 1866.</i>—The Mobisa man sent for came, + but was so ignorant of his own country, not knowing the names of + the chief Babisa town or any of the rivers, that I declined his + guidance. He would only have been a clog on us; and anything + about the places in front of us we could ascertain at the + villages where we touch by inquiry as well as he could.</p> + + <p>A woman turned up here, and persuaded Chuma that she was his + aunt. He wanted to give her at once a fathom of calico and beads, + and wished me to cut his pay down for the purpose. I persuaded + him to be content with a few beads for her. He gave her his spoon + and some other valuables, fully persuaded that she was a + relative, though he was interrogated first as to his father's + name, and tribe, &c., before she declared herself.</p> + + <p>It shows a most forgiving disposition on the part of these + <a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>boys to make presents to + those who, if genuine relations, actually sold them. But those + who have been caught young, know nothing of the evils of slavery, + and do not believe in its ills. Chuma, for instance, believes now + that he was caught and sold by the Manganja, and not by his own + Waiyau, though it was just in the opposite way that he became a + slave, and he asserted and believes that no Waiyau ever sold his + own child. When reminded that Wikatani was sold by his own + father, he denied it; then that the father of Chimwala, another + boy, sold him, his mother, and sister, he replied, "These are + Machinga." This is another tribe of Waiyau; but this showed that + he was determined to justify his countrymen at any rate. I + mention this matter, because though the Oxford and Cambridge + Mission have an advantage in the instruction of boys taken quite + young from slavers, yet these same boys forget the evils to which + they were exposed and from which they were rescued, and it is + even likely that they will, like Chuma, deny that any benefit was + conferred upon them by their deliverance. This was not stated + broadly by Chuma, but his tone led one to believe that he was + quite ready to return to the former state.</p> + + <p><i>5th October, 1866.</i>—The chief came early with an + immense basket of beer, as usual. We were ready to start: he did + not relish this; but I told him it was clear that his people set + very light by his authority. He declared that he would force them + or go himself, with his wives as carriers. This dawdling and + guzzling had a bad effect on my remaining people. Simon, a + Nassick lad, for instance, overheard two words which he + understood; these were "Mazitu" and "lipululu," or desert; and + from these he conjured up a picture of Mazitu rushing out upon us + from the jungle, and killing all without giving us time to say a + word! To this he added scraps of distorted information: Khambuiri + was a very bad chief in front, &c., all showing egregious + <a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>cowardice; yet he came to + give me advice. On asking what he knew (as he could not speak the + language), he replied that he heard the above two words, and that + Chuma could not translate them, but he had caught them, and came + to warn me.</p> + + <p>The chief asked me to stay over to-day, and he would go with + his wives to-morrow; I was his friend, and he would not see me in + difficulties without doing his utmost. He says that there is no + danger of our not finding people for carrying loads. It is + probable that Khambuiri's people went as marauders, and were + beaten off in consequence.</p> + + <p><i>6th October, 1866.</i>—We marched about seven miles + to the north to a village opposite the pass Tapiri, and on a + rivulet, Godedza. It was very hot. Kimsusa behaves like a king: + his strapping wives came to carry loads, and shame his people. + Many of the young men turned out and took the loads, but it was + evident that they feared retaliation if they ventured up the + pass. One wife carried beer, another meal; and as soon as we + arrived, cooking commenced: porridge and roasted goat's flesh + made a decent meal. A preparation of meal called "Toku" is very + refreshing and brings out all the sugary matter in the grain: he + gave me some in the way, and, seeing I liked it, a calabash full + was prepared for me in the evening. Kimsusa delights in showing + me to his people as his friend. If I could have used his pombe, + or beer, it would have put some fat on my bones, but it requires + a strong digestion; many of the chiefs and their wives live on it + almost entirely. A little flesh is necessary to relieve the + acidity it causes; and they keep all flesh very carefully, no + matter how high it may become: drying it on a stage over a fire + prevents entire putridity.</p> + + <p><i>7th October, 1866.</i>—I heard hooping-cough<a name= + "FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> in the village. + <a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>We found our visitors so + disagreeable that I was glad to march; they were Waiyau, and very + impudent, demanding gun or game medicine to enable them to shoot + well: they came into the hut uninvited, and would take no denial. + It is probable that the Arabs drive a trade in gun medicine: it + is inserted in cuts made above the thumb, and on the forearm. + Their superciliousness shows that they feel themselves to be the + dominant race. The Manganja trust to their old bows and arrows; + they are much more civil than Ajawa or Waiyau.</p> + + <p>[The difference between these two great races is here well + worthy of the further notice which Livingstone no doubt would + have given it. As a rule, the Manganja are extremely clever in + all the savage arts and manufactures. Their looms turn out a + strong serviceable cotton cloth; their iron weapons and + implements show a taste for design which is not reached by the + neighbouring tribes, and in all matters that relate to husbandry + they excel: but in dash and courage they are deficient. The + Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped heads, as + distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the poor + Manganja; they are jocular and merry, given to travelling, and + bold in war—these are qualities which serve them well as + they are driven from pillar to post through slave wars and + internal dissension, but they have not the brains of the + Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark in any direction + where brains are wanted.]</p> + + <p>A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the whole haul + of his net, came and gave me four fowls: some really delight in + showing kindness. When we came near the bottom of the pass + Tapiri, Kimsusa's men became loud against his venturing further; + he listened, then burst away from them: he listened again, then + did the same; and as he had now got men for us, I thought it + better to let him go.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>In three hours and a + quarter we had made a clear ascent of 2200 feet above the Lake. + The first persons we met were two men and a boy, who were out + hunting with a dog and basket-trap. This is laid down in the run + of some small animal; the dog chases it, and it goes into the + basket which is made of split bamboo, and has prongs looking + inwards, which prevent its egress: mouse traps are made in the + same fashion. I suspected that the younger of the men had other + game in view, and meant, if fit opportunity offered, to insert an + arrow in a Waiyau, who was taking away his wife as a slave. He + told me before we had gained the top of the ascent that some + Waiyau came to a village, separated from his by a small valley, + picked a quarrel with the inhabitants, and then went and took the + wife and child of a poorer countryman to pay these pretended + offences.</p> + + <p><i>8th October, 1866.</i>—At the first village we found + that the people up here and those down below were mutually afraid + of each other. Kimsusa came to the bottom of the range, his last + act being the offer of a pot of beer, and a calabash of Toku, + which latter was accepted. I paid his wives for carrying our + things: they had done well, and after we gained the village where + we slept, sang and clapped their hands vigorously till one + o'clock in the morning, when I advised them to go to sleep. The + men he at last provided were very faithful and easily satisfied. + Here we found the headman, Kawa, of Mpalapala, quite as + hospitable. In addition to providing a supper, it is the custom + to give breakfast before starting. Resting on the 8th to make up + for the loss of rest on Sunday; we marched on Tuesday (the 9th), + but were soon brought to a stand by Gombwa, whose village, + Tamiala, stands on another ridge.</p> + + <p>Gombwa, a laughing, good-natured man, said that he had sent + for all his people to see me; and I ought to sleep, to enable + them to look on one the like of whom had never come their way + before. Intending to go on, <a name="Page_124" id= + "Page_124"></a>I explained some of my objects in coming through + the country, advising the people to refrain from selling each + other, as it ends in war and depopulation. He was cunning, and + said, "Well, you must sleep here, and all my people will come and + hear those words of peace." I explained that I had employed + carriers, who expected to be paid though I had gone but a small + part of a day; he replied, "But they will go home and come again + to-morrow, and it will count but one day:" I was thus constrained + to remain.</p> + + <p><i>9th October, 1866.</i>—Both barometer and + boiling-point showed an altitude of upwards of 4000 feet above + the sea. This is the hottest month, but the air is delightfully + clear, and delicious. The country is very fine, lying in long + slopes, with mountains rising all around, from 2000 to 3000 feet + above this upland. They are mostly jagged and rough (not rounded + like those near to Mataka's): the long slopes are nearly denuded + of trees, and the patches of cultivation are so large and often + squarish in form, that but little imagination is requisite to + transform the whole into the cultivated fields of England; but no + hedgerows exist. The trees are in clumps on the tops of the + ridges, or at the villages, or at the places of sepulture. Just + now the young leaves are out, but are not yet green. In some + lights they look brown, but with transmitted light, or when one + is near them, crimson prevails. A yellowish-green is met + sometimes in the young leaves, and brown, pink, and orange-red. + The soil is rich, but the grass is only excessively rank in + spots; in general it is short. A kind of trenching of the ground + is resorted to; they hoe deep, and draw it well to themselves: + this exposes the other earth to the hoe. The soil is burned too: + the grass and weeds are placed in flat heaps, and soil placed + over them: the burning is slow, and most of the products of + combustion are retained to fatten the field; in this way the + people raise large crops. Men and women and children engage in + field labour, but at present <a name="Page_125" id= + "Page_125"></a>many of the men are engaged in spinning + buazé<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id= + "FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class= + "fnanchor">[29]</a> and cotton. The former is made into a coarse + sacking-looking stuff, immensely strong, which seems to be worn + by the women alone; the men are clad in uncomfortable goatskins. + No wild animals seem to be in the country, and indeed the + population is so large they would have very unsettled times of + it. At every turning we meet people, or see their villages; all + armed with bows and arrows. The bows are unusually long: I + measured one made of bamboo, and found that along the bowstring + it measured six feet four inches. Many carry large knives of fine + iron; and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men and women wear + the hair long, a mass of small ringlets comes down and rests on + the shoulders, giving them the appearance of the ancient + Egyptians. One side is often cultivated, and the mass hangs + jauntily on that side; some few have a solid cap of it. Not many + women wear the lip-ring: the example of the Waiyau has prevailed + so far; but some of the young women have raised lines crossing + each other on the arms, which must have cost great pain: they + have also small cuts, covering in some cases the whole body. The + Maravi or Manganja here may be said to be in their primitive + state. We find them very liberal with their <a name="Page_126" + id="Page_126"></a>food: we give a cloth to the headman of the + village where we pass the night, and he gives a goat, or at least + cooked fowls and porridge, at night and morning.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 205px;"> + <a name="p125" id="p125"></a> <img src="images/p125.jpg" width= + "205" height="123" alt="Tattoo on Women." title= + "Tattoo on Women." /> <b>Tattoo on Women.</b> + </div> + + <p>We were invited by Gombwa in the afternoon to speak the same + words to his people that we used to himself in the morning. He + nudged a boy to respond, which is considered polite, though he + did it only with a rough hem! at the end of each sentence. As for + our general discourse we mention our relationship to our Father: + His love to all His children—the guilt of selling any of + His children—the consequence; <i>e.g.</i> it begets war, + for they don't like to sell their own, and steal from other + villagers, who retaliate. Arabs and Waiyau invited into the + country by their selling, foster feuds, and war and depopulation + ensue. We mention the Bible—future state—prayer: + advise union, that they should unite as one family to expel + enemies, who came first as slave-traders, and ended by leaving + the country a wilderness. In reference to union, we showed that + they ought to have seen justice done to the man who lost his wife + and child at their very doors; but this want of cohesion is the + bane of the Manganja. If the evil does not affect themselves they + don't care whom it injures; and Gombwa confirmed this, by saying + that when he routed Khambuiri's people, the villagers west of him + fled instead of coming to his aid.</p> + + <p>We hear that many of the Manganja up here are fugitives from + Nyassa.</p> + + <p><i>10th October, 1866.</i>—Kawa and his people were with + us early this morning, and we started from Tamiala with them. The + weather is lovely, and the scenery, though at present tinged with + yellow from the grass, might be called glorious. The bright sun + and delicious air are quite exhilarating. We passed a fine + flowing rivulet, called Levizé, going into the Lake, and + many smaller runnels of delicious cold water. On resting by a + dark sepulchral grove, a tree attracted the attention, as nowhere + else seen: it is called Bokonto, and <a name="Page_127" id= + "Page_127"></a>said to bear eatable fruit. Many fine flowers were + just bursting into full blossom. After about four hours' march we + put up at Chitimba, the village of Kañgomba, and were + introduced by Kawa, who came all the way for the purpose.</p> + + <p><i>11th October, 1866.</i>—A very cold morning, with a + great bank of black clouds in the east, whence the wind came. + Therm. 59°; in hut 69°. The huts are built very well. The + roof, with the lower part plastered, is formed so as not to admit + a ray of light, and the only visible mode of ingress for it is by + the door. This case shows that winter is cold: on proposing to + start, breakfast was not ready: then a plan was formed to keep me + another day at a village close by, belonging to one Kulu, a man + of Kauma, to whom we go next. It was effectual, and here we are + detained another day. A curiously cut-out stool is in my hut, + made by the Mkwisa, who are south-west of this: it is of one + block, but hollowed out, and all the spaces indicated are hollow + too: about 2-1/2 feet long by 1-1/2 foot high.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> + <a name="p127" id="p127"></a> <img src="images/p127.png" width= + "300" height="191" alt= + "Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood." title= + "Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood." /> <b>Curiously + cut-out stool of one block of wood.</b> + </div> + + <p><i>12th October, 1866.</i>—We march westerly, with a + good deal of southing. Kulu gave us a goat, and cooked liberally + for us all. He set off with us as if to go to Kauma's in our + company, but after we had gone a couple of miles he slipped + behind, and ran away. Some are naturally mean, and some naturally + noble: the mean cannot help showing their nature, nor can the + noble; but the noble-hearted must enjoy life most. Kulu got a + cloth, and he gave us at least its value; but he thought he had + got more than he gave, and so by running away that he had done us + nicely, without troubling himself to go and introduce us to + Kauma. I usually request a headman of a village to go with us. + They give a good report of us, if for no other reason <a name= + "Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>than for their own credit, because + no one likes to be thought giving his countenance to people other + than respectable, and it costs little.</p> + + <p>We came close to the foot of several squarish mountains, + having perpendicular sides. One, called "Ulazo pa Malungo," is + used by the people, whose villages cluster round its base as a + storehouse for grain. Large granaries stand on its top, + containing food to be used in case of war. A large cow is kept up + there, which is supposed capable of knowing and letting the + owners know when war is coming.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id= + "FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class= + "fnanchor">[30]</a> There is a path up, but it was not visible to + us. The people are all Kanthunda, or climbers, not Maravi. + Kimsusa said that he was the only Maravi chief, but this I took + to be an ebullition of beer bragging: the natives up here, + however, confirm this, and assert that they are not Maravi, who + are known by having markings down the side of the face.</p> + + <p>We spent the night at a Kanthunda village on the western side + of a mountain called Phunzé (the <i>h</i> being an + aspirate only). Many villages are planted round its base, but in + front, that is, westwards, we have plains, and there the villages + are as numerous: mostly they are within half a mile of each + other, and few are a mile from other hamlets. Each village has a + clump of trees around it: this is partly for shade and partly for + privacy from motives of decency. The heat of the sun causes the + effluvia to exhale quickly, so they are seldom offensive. The + rest of the country, where not cultivated, is covered with grass, + the seed-stalks about knee deep. It is gently undulating, lying + in low waves, stretching N.E. and S.W. The space between each + wave is usually occupied by a boggy spot or watercourse, which in + some cases is filled with pools with trickling rills between. All + the people are <a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>engaged at + present in making mounds six or eight feet square, and from two + to three feet high. The sods in places not before hoed are + separated from the soil beneath and collected into flattened + heaps, the grass undermost; when dried, fire is applied and slow + combustion goes on, most of the products of the burning being + retained in the ground, much of the soil is incinerated. The + final preparation is effected by the men digging up the subsoil + round the mound, passing each hoeful into the left hand, where it + pulverizes, and is then thrown on to the heap. It is thus virgin + soil on the top of the ashes and burned ground of the original + heap, very clear of weeds. At present many mounds have beans and + maize about four inches high. Holes, a foot in diameter and a few + inches deep, are made irregularly over the surface of the mound, + and about eight or ten grains put into each: these are watered by + hand and calabash, and kept growing till the rains set in, when a + very early crop is secured.</p> + + <p><i>13th October, 1866.</i>—After leaving Phunzé, + we crossed the Leviñgé, a rivulet which flows + northwards, and then into Lake Nyassa; the lines of gentle + undulation tend in that direction. Some hills appear on the + plains, but after the mountains which we have left behind they + are mere mounds. We are over 3000 feet above the sea, and the air + is delicious; but we often pass spots covered with a plant which + grows in marshy places, and its heavy smell always puts me in + mind that at other seasons this may not be so pleasant a + residence. The fact of even maize being planted on mounds where + the ground is naturally quite dry, tells a tale of abundant + humidity of climate.</p> + + <p>Kauma, a fine tall man, with a bald head and pleasant manners, + told us that some of his people had lately returned from the + Chibisa or Babisa country, whither they had gone to buy ivory, + and they would give me information about the path. He took a + fancy to one of the boys' blankets; offering a native cloth, much + larger, in exchange, and even a <a name="Page_130" id= + "Page_130"></a>sheep to boot; but the owner being unwilling to + part with his covering, Kauma told me that he had not sent for + his Babisa travellers on account of my boy refusing to deal with + him. A little childish this, but otherwise he was very + hospitable; he gave me a fine goat, which, unfortunately, my + people left behind.</p> + + <p>The chief said that no Arabs ever came his way, nor Portuguese + native traders. When advising them to avoid the first attempts to + begin the slave-trade, as it would inevitably lead to war and + depopulation, Kauma replied that the chiefs had resolved to unite + against the Waiyau of Mpondé should he come again on a + foray up to the highlands; but they are like a rope of sand, + there is no cohesion among them, and each village is nearly + independent of every other: they mutually distrust each + other.</p> + + <p><i>14th October, 1866.</i>—Spent Sunday here. Kauma says + that his people are partly Kanthunda and partly Chipéta. + The first are the mountaineers, the second dwellers on the + plains. The Chipéta have many lines of marking: they are + all only divisions of the great Manganja tribe, and their + dialects differ very slightly from that spoken by the same people + on the Shiré. The population is very great and very + ceremonious. When we meet anyone he turns aside and sits down: we + clap the hand on the chest and say, "Re peta—re peta," that + is, "we pass," or "let us pass:" this is responded to at once by + a clapping of the hands together. When a person is called at a + distance he gives two loud claps of assent; or if he rises from + near a superior he does, the same thing, which is a sort of + leave-taking.</p> + + <p>We have to ask who are the principal chiefs in the direction + which we wish to take, and decide accordingly. Zomba was pointed + out as a chief on a range of hills on our west: beyond him lies + Undi m'senga. I had to take this route, as my people have a very + vivid idea of the danger of going northwards towards the Mazitu. + We made <a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>more southing than + we wished. One day beyond Zomba and W.S.W. is the part called + Chindando, where the Portuguese formerly went for gold. They + don't seem to have felt it worth while to come here, as neither + ivory nor gold could be obtained if they did. The country is too + full of people to allow any wild animals elbow-room: even the + smaller animals are hunted down by means of nets and dogs.</p> + + <p>We rested at Pachoma; the headman offering a goat and beer, + but I declined, and went on to Molomba. Here Kauma's carriers + turned because a woman had died that morning as we left the + village. They asserted that had she died before we started not a + man would have left: this shows a reverence for death, for the + woman was no relative of any of them. The headman of Molomba was + very poor but very liberal, cooking for us and presenting a goat: + another headman from a neighbouring village, a laughing, + good-natured old man, named Chikala, brought beer and a fowl in + the morning. I asked him to go on with us to Mironga, it being + important, as above-mentioned, to have the like of his kind in + our company, and he consented. We saw Mount Ngala in the + distance, like a large sugar-loaf shot up in the air: in our + former route to Kasungu we passed north of it.</p> + + <p><i>16th October, 1866.</i>—Crossed the rivulet Chikuyo + going N. for the Lake, and Mironga being but one-and-a-half hour + off, we went on to Chipanga: this is the proper name of what on + the Zambesi is corrupted into Shupanga. The headman, a miserable + hemp-consuming<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id= + "FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class= + "fnanchor">[31]</a> leper, fled from us. We were offered a + miserable hut, which we refused, Chikala meanwhile went through + the whole village seeking a better, which we ultimately found: it + was not in this chief to be generous, though Chikala did what he + could in trying to <a name="Page_132" id= + "Page_132"></a>indoctrinate him: when I gave him a present he + immediately proposed to <i>sell</i> a goat! We get on pretty well + however.</p> + + <p>Zomha is in a range of hills to our west, called Zala nyama. + The Portuguese, in going to Casembe, went still further west than + this.</p> + + <p>Passing on we came to a smithy, and watched the founder at + work drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. He broke + through the hardened slag by striking it with an iron instrument + inserted in the end of a pole, when the material flowed out of + the small hole left for the purpose in the bottom of the furnace. + The ore (probably the black oxide) was like sand, and was put in + at the top of the furnace, mixed with charcoal. Only one bellows + was at work, formed out of a goatskin, and the blast was very + poor. Many of these furnaces, or their remains, are met with on + knolls; those at work have a peculiarly tall hut built over + them.</p> + + <p>On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, with + the Diampwé stream flowing along it, and the Dzala nyama + range on the western side, are two villages screened by fine + specimens of the <i>Ficus Indica</i>. One of these is owned by + the headman Theresa, and there we spent the night. We made very + short marches, for the sun is very powerful, and the soil baked + hard, is sore on the feet: no want of water, however, is felt, + for we come to supplies every mile or two.</p> + + <p>The people look very poor, having few or no beads; the + ornaments being lines and cuttings on the skin. They trust more + to buazé than cotton. I noticed but two cotton patches. + The women are decidedly plain; but monopolize all the + buazé cloth. Theresa was excessively liberal, and having + informed us that Zomba lived some distance up the range and was + not the principal man in these parts, we, to avoid climbing the + hills, turned away to the north, <a name="Page_133" id= + "Page_133"></a>in the direction of the paramount chief, Chisumpi, + whom we found to be only traditionally great.</p> + + <p><i>20th October, 1866.</i>—In passing along we came to a + village embowered in fine trees; the headman is Kaveta, a really + fine specimen of the Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine + forehead and Assyrian nose. He proposed to us to remain over + night with him, and I unluckily declined.</p> + + <p>Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman, and + then came to a smith's village, where the same invitation was + given and refused. A sort of infatuation drove us on, and after a + long hot march we found the great Chisumpi, the facsimile in + black of Sir Colin Campbell; his nose, mouth, and the numerous + wrinkles on his face were identical with those of the great + General, but here all resemblance ceased. Two men had preceded us + to give information, and when I followed I saw that his village + was one of squalid misery, the only fine things about being the + lofty trees in which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at a + village about half a mile behind: his son was browbeating him on + some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. Next + morning he came early to that village, and arranged for our + departure, offering nothing, and apparently not wishing to see us + at all. I suspect that though paramount chief, he is weak-minded, + and has lost thereby all his influence, but in the people's eyes + he is still a great one.</p> + + <p>Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, I inquired + for a village in which we could rest Saturday and Sunday, and at + a distance from Chisumpi. A headman volunteered to lead us to one + west of this. In passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our + guide remarked, "Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was + the first time I have heard the word "sleep" applied to death in + these parts. The trees in these groves, and around many of the + villages, are very large, and show what the country would become + if depopulated.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>We crossed the + Diampwé or Adiampwé, from five to fifteen yards + wide, and well supplied with water even now. It rises near the + Ndomo mountains, and flows northwards into the Lintipé and + Lake. We found Chitokola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant + one on the east side of the Adiampwé Valley. Many + elephants and other animals feed in the valley, and we saw the + Bechuana Hopo<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id= + "FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class= + "fnanchor">[32]</a> again after many years.</p> + + <p>The Ambarré, otherwise Nyumbo plant, has a pea-shaped, + or rather papilionaceous flower, with a fine scent. It seems to + grow quite wild; its flowers are yellow.</p> + + <p>Chaola is the poison used by the Maravi for their arrows, it + is said to cause mortification.</p> + + <p>One of the wonders usually told of us in this upland region is + that we sleep without fire. The boys' blankets suffice for warmth + during the night, when the thermometer sinks to 64°-60°, + but no one else has covering sufficient; some huts in process of + building here show that a thick coating of plaster is put on + outside the roof before the grass thatch is applied; not a chink + is left for the admission of air.</p> + + <p>Ohitikola was absent from Paritala when we arrived on some + <i>milando</i> or other. These <i>milandos</i> are the business + of their lives. They are like petty lawsuits; if one trespasses + on his neighbour's rights in any way it is a <i>milando</i>, and + the headmen of all the villages about are called on to settle it. + Women are a fruitful source of <i>milando</i>. A few ears of + Indian corn had been taken by a person, and Chitikola had been + called a full day's journey off to settle this <i>milando</i>. He + administered <i>Muavé</i><a name="FNanchor_33_33" id= + "FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class= + "fnanchor">[33]</a> and the person <a name="Page_135" id= + "Page_135"></a>vomited, therefore innocence was clearly + established! He came in the evening of the 21st footsore and + tired, and at once gave us some beer. This perpetual reference to + food and drink is natural, inasmuch as it is the most important + point in our intercourse. While the chief was absent we got + nothing; the queen even begged a little meat for her child, who + was recovering from an attack of small-pox. There being no shops + we had to sit still without food. I took observations for + longitude, and whiled away the time by calculating the lunars. + Next day the chief gave us a goat cooked whole and plenty of + porridge: I noticed that he too had the Assyrian type of + face.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Dr. + Livingstone's description of the "Sponge" will stand the + reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention of + these obstructions in the later travels towards the + north.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> So + named when Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Kirk, and Mr. Charles + Livingstone, discovered Lake Nyassa together.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> The + sheep are of the black-haired variety: their tails grow to an + enormous size. A rain which came from Nunkajowa, a Waiyau + chief, on a former occasion, was found to have a tail + weighing 11 lbs.; but for the journey, and two or three days + short commons, an extra 2 or 3 lbs. of fat «would have + been on it.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> This + complaint has not been reported as an African disease before; + it probably clings to the higher levels.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> A fine + fibre derived from the shoots of a shrub (<i>Securidaca + Longipedunculata</i>).</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Several + superstitions of this nature seem to point to a remnant of + the old heathen ritual, and the worship of gods in mountain + groves.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Hemp = + bangé is smoked throughout Central Africa, and if used + in excess produces partial imbecility.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The + Hopo is a funnel-shaped fence which encloses a considerable + tract of country: a "drive" is organised, and animals of all + descriptions are urged on till they become jammed together in + the neck of the hopo, where they are speared to death or else + destroyed in a number of pitfalls placed there for the + purpose.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> The + ordeal poison.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><a name="Page_136" + id="Page_136"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by + Mazitu. Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the + watershed between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive + iron-workings. An old Nimrod. The Bua Eiver. Lovely scenery. + Difficulties of transport. Chilobé. An African + Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. + Rains set in. Arrives at the Loangwa.</p> + </div> + + <p>We started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of October, + and he led us away westwards across the Lilongwé River, + then turned north till we came to a village called Mashumba, the + headman of which was the only chief who begged anything except + medicine, and he got less than we were in the habit of giving in + consequence: we give a cloth usually, and clothing being very + scarce this is considered munificent.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id= + "FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class= + "fnanchor">[34]</a></p> + + <p>We had the Zalanyama range on our left, and our course was + generally north, but we had to go in the direction of the + villages which were on friendly terms with our guides, and + sometimes we went but a little way, as they studied to make the + days as short as possible. The headman of the last village, + Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a village of smiths, four + furnaces and one smithy being at work. We crossed the Chiniambo, + a strong river coming from Zalanyama and flowing into the + Mirongwé, which again goes into Lintipé. The + country near the hills becomes covered with forest, the trees are + chiefly Masuko Mochenga <a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>(the + gum-copal tree), the bark-cloth tree and rhododendrons. The heath + known at the Cape as <i>Rhinoster bosch</i> occurs frequently, + and occasionally we have thorny acacias. The grass is short, but + there is plenty of it.</p> + + <p><i>24th October, 1866.</i>—Our guide, Mpanda, led us + through the forest by what he meant to be a short cut to + Chimuna's. We came on a herd of about fifteen elephants, and many + trees laid down by these animals: they seem to relish the roots + of some kinds, and spend a good deal of time digging them up; + they chew woody roots and branches as thick as the handle of a + spade. Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd of elands; + they kept out of bow-shot only: a herd of the baama or hartebeest + stood at 200 paces, and one was shot.</p> + + <p>While all were rejoicing over the meat we got news, from the + inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the Mazitu + were out on a foray. While roasting and eating meat I went + forward with Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry the rest, + but was soon recalled. Another crowd were also in full retreat; + the people were running straight to the Zalanyama range + regardless of their feet, making a path for themselves through + the forest; they had escaped from the Mazitu that morning; "they + saw them!" Mpanda's people wished to leave and go to look after + their own village, but we persuaded them, on pain of a + <i>milando</i>, to take us to the nearest village, that was at + the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of the + fugitives. The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills + must have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison + with dear life! We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend + our property in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we should, in + the event of being successful, be a defence to the fugitives who + crowded up its rocky sides, but next morning we heard that the + enemy had gone to the south. Had we gone forward, as we intended, + to search for men to <a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>carry + the meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the + second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their + village till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near + escape I had had from walking into their power.</p> + + <p><i>25th October, 1866.</i>—Came along northwards to + Chimuna's town, a large one of Chipéta with many villages + around. Our path led through the forest, and as we emerged into + the open strath in which the villages lie, we saw the large + anthills, each the size of the end of a one-storied cottage, + covered with men on guard watching for the Mazitu.</p> + + <p>A long line of villagers were just arriving from the south, + and we could see at some low hills in that direction the smoke + arising from the burning settlements. None but men were present, + the women and the chief were at the mountain called Pambé; + all were fully armed with their long bows, some flat in the bow, + others round, and it was common to have the quiver on the back, + and a bunch of feathers stuck in the hair like those in our + Lancers' shakos. But they remained not to fight, but to watch + their homes and stores of grain from robbers amongst their own + people in case no Mazitu came! They gave a good hut, and sent off + at once to let the chief at Pambé know of our arrival. We + heard the cocks crowing up there in the mountain as we passed in + the morning. Chimuna came in the evening, and begged me to remain + a day in his village, Pamaloa, as he was the greatest chief the + Chipéta had. I told him all wished the same thing, and if + I listened to each chief we should never get on, and the rains + were near, but we had to stay over with him.</p> + + <p><i>26th October, 1866.</i>—All the people came down + to-day from Pambé, and crowded to see the strangers. They + know very little beyond their own affairs, though these require a + good deal of knowledge, and we should be sorely put about + <a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>if, without their skill, we + had to maintain an existence here. Their furnaces are rather + bottle shaped, and about seven feet high by three broad. One + toothless patriarch had heard of books and umbrellas, but had + never seen either. The oldest inhabitant had never travelled far + from the spot in which he was born, yet he has a good knowledge + of soils and agriculture, hut-building, basket-making, pottery, + and the manufacture of bark-cloth and skins for clothing, as also + making of nets, traps, and cordage.</p> + + <p>Chimuna had a most ungainly countenance, yet did well enough: + he was very thankful for a blister on his loins to ease rheumatic + pains, and presented a huge basket of porridge before starting, + with a fowl, and asked me to fire a gun that the Mazitu might + hear and know that armed men were here. They all say that these + marauders flee from fire-arms, so I think that they are not Zulus + at all, though adopting some of their ways.</p> + + <p>In going on to Mapuio's we passed several large villages, each + surrounded by the usual euphorbia hedge, and having large trees + for shade. We are on & level, or rather gently amdulating + country, rather bare of trees. At the junctions of these earthen + waves we have always an oozing bog, this often occurs in the + slope down the trough of this terrestrial sea; bushes are common, + and of the kind which were cut down as trees. Yellow haematite is + very abundant, but the other rocks scarcely appear in the + distance; we have mountains both on the east and west.</p> + + <p>On arriving at Mapuio's village, he was, as often happens, + invisible, but he sent us a calabash of fresh-made beer, which is + very refreshing, gave us a hut, and promised to cook for us in + the evening. We have to employ five or six carriers, and they + rule the length of the day's march. Those from Chimuna's village + growled at the cubit of calico with which we paid them, but a few + beads pleased them perfectly, and we parted good friends. It is + not likely I shall ever <a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>see + them again, but I always like to please them, because it is right + to consider their desires. Is that not what is meant in "Blessed + is he that considereth the poor"? There is a great deal of good + in these poor people. In cases of <i>milando</i> they rely on the + most distant relations and connections to plead their cause, and + seldom are they disappointed, though time at certain seasons, as + for instance at present, is felt by all to be precious. Every man + appears with hoe or axe on shoulder, and the people often only + sit down as we pass and gaze at us till we are out of sight.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> + <a name="p140" id="p140"></a> <img src="images/p140.png" width= + "200" height="97" alt="Women's Teeth hollowed." title= + "Women's Teeth hollowed." /> <b>Women's Teeth hollowed.</b> + </div> + + <p>Many of the men have large slits in the lobe of the ear, and + they have their distinctive tribal tattoo. The women indulge in + this painful luxury more than the men, probably because they have + very few ornaments. The two central front teeth are hollowed at + the cutting edge. Many have quite the Grecian facial angle. + Mapuio has thin legs and quite a European face. Delicate features + and limbs are common, and the spur-heel is as scarce as among + Europeans; small feet and hands are the rule.</p> + + <p>Clapping the hands in various ways is the polite way of saying + "Allow me," "I beg pardon," "Permit me to pass," "Thanks," it is + resorted to in respectful introduction and leave-taking, and also + is equivalent to "Hear hear." When inferiors are called they + respond by two brisk claps of the hands, meaning "I am coming." + They are very punctilious amongst each other. A large ivory + bracelet marks the headman of a village; there is nothing else to + show differences of rank.</p> + + <p><i>28th October, 1866.</i>—We spent Sunday at Mapuio's + and had a long talk with him; his country is in a poor state from + the continual incursions of the Mazitu, who are wholly + unchecked.</p> + + <p><i>29th October, 1866.</i>—We marched westwards to + Makosa's village, and could not go further, as the next stage is + long and <a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a>through an + ill-peopled country. The morning was lovely, the whole country + bathed in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air disturbed the + smoke as it slowly curled up from the heaps of burning weeds, + which the native agriculturist wisely destroys. The people + generally were busy hoeing in the cool of the day. One old man in + a village where we rested had trained the little hair he had left + into a tail, which, well plastered with fat, he had bent on + itself and laid flat on his crown; another was carefully paring a + stick for stirring the porridge, and others were enjoying the + cool shade of the wild fig-trees which are always planted at + villages. It is a sacred tree all over Africa and India, and the + tender roots which drop down towards the ground are used as + medicine—a universal remedy. Can it be a tradition of its + being like the tree of life, which Archbishop Whately conjectures + may have been used in Paradise to render man immortal? One kind + of fig-tree is often seen hacked all over to get the sap, which + is used as bird-lime; bark-cloth is made of it too. I like to see + the men weaving or spinning, or reclining under these glorious + canopies, as much as I love to see our more civilized people + lolling on their sofas or ottomans.</p> + + <p>The first rain—a thunder shower—fell in the + afternoon, air in shade before it 92°; wet bulb 74°. At + noon the soil in the sun was 140°, perhaps more, but I was + afraid of bursting the thermometer, as it was graduated only a + few degrees above that. This rain happened at the same time that + the sun was directly overhead on his way south; it was but a + quarter of an inch, but its effect was to deprive us of all + chance of getting the five carriers we needed, all were off to + their gardens to commit the precious seed to the soil. We got + three, but no one else would come, so we have to remain here over + to-day (30th October).</p> + + <p><i>30th October, 1866.</i>—The black traders come from + Tette to this country to buy slaves, and as a consequence here we + come <a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>to bugs again, which we + left when we passed the Arab slave-traders' beat.</p> + + <p><i>31st October, 1866.</i>—We proceed westwards, and a + little south through a country covered with forest trees, thickly + planted, but small, generally of bark-cloth and gum-copal trees, + masukos, rhododendrons, and a few acacias. At one place we saw + ten wild hogs in a group, but no other animal, though marks of + elephants, buffaloes, and other animals having been about in the + wet season were very abundant. The first few miles were rather + more scant of water than usual, but we came to the Leué, a + fine little stream with plenty of water sand from 20 to 30 yards + wide; it is said by the people to flow away westwards into the + Loangwa.</p> + + <p><i>1st November 1866.</i>—In the evening we made the + Chigumokiré, a nice rivulet, where we slept, and the next + morning we proceeded to Kangené, whose village is situated + on a mass of mountains, and to reach which we made more southing + than we wished. Our appearance on the ascent of the hill caused + alarm, and we were desired to wait till our spokesman had + explained the unusual phenomenon of a white man.</p> + + <p>This kept us waiting in the hot sun among heated rocks, and + the chief, being a great ugly public-house-keeper looking person, + excused his incivility by saying that his brother had been killed + by the Mazitu, and he was afraid that we were of the same tribe. + On asking if Mazitu wore clothes like us he told some untruths, + and, what has been an unusual thing, began to beg powder and + other things. I told him how other chiefs had treated us, which + made him ashamed. He represented the country in front to the N.W. + to be quite impassable from want of food: the Mazitu had stripped + it of all provisions, and the people were living on what wild + fruits they could pick up.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a><i>2nd November, + 1866.</i>—Kangené is very disagreeable naturally, + and as we have to employ five men as carriers, we are in his + power.</p> + + <p>We can scarcely enter into the feelings of those who are + harried by marauders. Like Scotland in the twelfth and thirteenth + centuries harassed by Highland Celts on one side and by English + Marchmen on the other, and thus kept in the rearward of + civilisation, these people have rest neither for many days nor + for few. When they fill their garners they can seldom reckon on + eating the grain, for the Mazitu come when the harvest is over + and catch as many able-bodied young persons as they can to carry + away the corn. Thus it was in Scotland so far as security for + life and property was concerned; but the Scotch were apt pupils + of more fortunate nations. To change of country they were as + indifferent as the Romans of the olden times; they were always + welcome in France, either as pilgrims, scholars, merchants, or + soldiers; but the African is different. If let alone the + African's mode of life is rather enjoyable; he loves agriculture, + and land is to be had anywhere. He knows nothing of other + countries, but he has imbibed the idea of property in man. This + Kangené told me that he would like to give me a slave to + look after my goats: I believe he would rather give a slave than + a goat!</p> + + <p>We were detained by the illness of Simon for four days. When + he recovered we proposed to the headman to start with five of his + men, and he agreed to let us have them; but having called them + together such an enormous demand was made for wages, and in + advance, that on the 7th of November we took seven loads forward + through a level uninhabited country generally covered with small + trees, slept there, and on the morning of the 8th, after leaving + two men at our depôt, came back, and took the remaining + five loads.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>Kangené was + disagreeable to the last. He asked where we had gone, and, having + described the turning point as near the hill Chimbimbé, he + complimented us on going so far, and then sent an offer of three + men; but I preferred not to have those who would have been spies + unless he could give five and take on all the loads. He said that + he would find the number, and after detaining us some hours + brought two, one of whom, primed with beer, babbled out that he + was afraid of being killed by us in front. I asked whom we had + killed behind, and moved off. The headman is very childish, does + women's work—cooking and pounding; and in all cases of that + kind the people take after their leader. The chiefs have scarcely + any power unless they are men of energy; they have to court the + people rather than be courted. We came much further back on our + way from Mapuio's than we liked; in fact, our course is like that + of a vessel baffled with foul winds: this is mainly owing to + being obliged to avoid places stripped of provisions or suffering + this spoliation. The people, too, can give no information about + others at a distance from their own abodes. Even the smiths, who + are a most plodding set of workers, are as ignorant as the + others: they supply the surrounding villages with hoes and + knives, and, combining agriculture with handicraft, pass through + life. An intelligent smith came as our guide from + Chimbimbé Hill on the 7th, and did not know a range of + mountains about twenty miles off: "it was too far off for him to + know the name."</p> + + <p><i>9th November, 1866.</i>—The country over which we + actually travel is level and elevated, but there are mountains + all about, which when put on the map make it appear to be a + mountainous region. We are on the watershed, apparently between + the Loangwa of Zumbo on the west, and the Lake on the east. The + Leué or Leuia is said by the people to flow into the + Loangwa. The Chigumokiré coming from the <a name= + "Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>north in front, eastward of + Irongwé (the same mountains on which Kangené skulks + out of sight of Mazitu), flows into the Leué, and north of + that we have the Mando, a little stream, flowing into the Bua. + The rivulets on the west flow in deep defiles, and the elevation + on which we travel makes it certain that no water can come from + the lower lands on the west. It seems that the Portuguese in + travelling to Casembe did not inquire of the people where the + streams they crossed went, for they are often wrongly put, and + indicate the direction only in which they appeared to be flowing + at their crossing places. The natives have a good idea generally + of the rivers into which the streams flow, though they are very + deficient in information as to the condition of the people that + live on their banks. Some of the Portuguese questions must have + been asked through slaves, who would show no hesitation in + answering. Maxinga, or Machinga, means "mountains" only; once or + twice it is put down Saxa de Maxinga, or Machinga, or Mcanga, + which translated from the native tongue means "rocks of + mountains, or mountains of rocks."</p> + + <p><i>10th November, 1866.</i>—We found the people on the + Mando to be Chawa or Ajawa, but not of the Waiyau race: they are + Manganja, and this is a village of smiths. We got five men + readily to go back and bring up our loads; and the sound of the + hammer is constant, showing a great deal of industry. They + combine agriculture, and hunting with nets, with their + handicraft.</p> + + <p>A herd of buffaloes came near the village, and I went and shot + one, thus procuring a supply of meat for the whole party and + villagers too. The hammer which we hear from dawn till sunset is + a large stone, bound with the strong inner bark of a tree, and + loops left which form handles. Two pieces of bark form the tongs, + and a big stone sunk into the ground the anvil. They make several + hoes in a day, and the metal is very good; it is all from yellow + haematite, <a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>which abounds all + over this part of the country; the bellows consist of two + goatskins with sticks at the open ends, which are opened and shut + at every blast.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p146" id="p146"></a> <img src="images/p146.jpg" width= + "354" height="364" alt="Forging Hoes." + title="Forging Hoes." /><br /> + <b>Forging Hoes.</b> + </div> + + <p><i>13th November, 1866.</i>—A lion came last night and + gave a growl or two on finding he could not get our meat: a man + had lent us a hunting net to protect it and us from intruders of + this sort. The people kept up a shouting for hours afterwards, in + order to keep him away by the human voice.</p> + + <p>We might have gone on, but I had a galled heel from new shoes. + Wild figs are rather nice when quite ripe.</p> + + <p><i>14th November, 1866.</i>—We marched northwards round + the end of Chisia Hill, and remained for the night at a + blacksmith's, or rather founder's village; the two occupations of + <a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>founder and smith are always + united, and boys taught to be smiths in Europe or India would + find themselves useless if unable to smelt the ore. A good + portion of the trees of the country have been cut down for + charcoal, and those which now spring up are small; certain fruit + trees alone are left. The long slopes on the undulating country, + clothed with fresh foliage, look very beautiful. The young trees + alternate with patches of yellow grass not yet burned; the hills + are covered with a thick mantle of small green trees with, as + usual, large ones at intervals. The people at Kalumbi, on the + Mando (where we spent four days), had once a stockade of wild fig + <i>(Ficus Indica)</i> and euphorbia round their village, which + has a running rill on each side of it; but the trees which + enabled them to withstand a siege by Mazitu fell before elephants + and buffaloes during a temporary absence of the villagers; the + remains of the stockade are all around it yet. Lions sometimes + enter huts by breaking through the roof: elephants certainly do, + for we saw a roof destroyed by one; the only chance for the + inmates is to drive a spear into the belly of the beast while so + engaged.</p> + + <p>A man came and reported the Mazitu to be at Chanyandula's + village, where we are going. The headman advised remaining at his + village till we saw whether they came this way or went by another + path. The women were sent away, but the men went on with their + employments; two proceeded with the building of a furnace on an + anthill, where they are almost always placed, and they keep a + look-out while working. We have the protection of an + all-embracing Providence, and trust that He, whose care of His + people «xceeds all that our utmost self-love can attain, + will shield us and make our way prosperous.</p> + + <p><i>16th November, 1866.</i>—An elephant came near enough + last night to scream at us, but passed on, warned, perhaps, by + the shouting of the villagers not to meddle with man. No Mazitu + having come, we marched on and crossed the <a name="Page_148" id= + "Page_148"></a>Bua, eight yards wide and knee deep. It rises in + the northern hills a little beyond Kanyindula's village, winds + round his mountains, and away to the east. The scenery among the + mountains is very lovely: they are covered with a close mantle of + green, with here and there red and light-coloured patches, + showing where grass has been burned off recently and the red clay + soil is exposed; the lighter portions are unburned grass or + rocks. Large trees are here more numerous, and give an agreeable + change of contour to the valleys and ridges of the hills; the + boughs of many still retain a tinge of red from young leaves. We + came to the Bua again before reaching Kanyenjé, as + Kanyindula's place is called. The iron trade must have been + carried on for an immense time in the country, for one cannot go + a quarter of a mile without meeting pieces of slag and broken + pots, calcined pipes, and fragments of the furnaces, which are + converted by the fire into brick. It is curious that the large + stone sledge-hammers now in use are not called by the name + stone-hammers, but by a distinct word, "kama:" nyundo is one made + of iron.</p> + + <p>When we arrived at Kanyenjé, Kanyindula was out + collecting charcoal. He sent a party of men to ask if we should + remain next day: an old, unintellectual-looking man was among the + number sent, who had twenty-seven rings of elephant's skin on his + arm, all killed by himself by the spear alone: he had given up + fighting elephants since the Mazitu came, whom we heard had + passed away to the south-east of this place, taking all the crops + of last year, and the chief alone has food. He gave us some, + which was very acceptable, as we got none at the two villages + south of this. Kanyindula came himself in the evening, an active, + stern-looking man, but we got on very well with him.</p> + + <p>The people say that they were taught to smelt iron by + Chisumpi, which is the name of Mulungu (God), and that they came + from Lake Nyassa originally; if so, they are <a name="Page_149" + id="Page_149"></a>greatly inferior to the Manganja on the Lake in + pottery, for the fragments, as well as modern whole vessels, are + very coarse; the ornamentation is omitted or merely dots. They + never heard of aërolites, but know hail.</p> + + <p>I notice here that the tree Mfu, or Mö, having + sweet-scented leaves, yields an edible plum in clusters. Bua-bwa + is another edible fruit-tree with palmated leaves.</p> + + <p>Mbéu is a climbing, arboraceous plant, and yields a + very pleasant fruit, which tastes like gooseberries: its seeds + are very minute.</p> + + <p><i>18th and 19th November, 1866.</i>—Rain fell heavily + yesterday afternoon, and was very threatening to-day; we remain + to sew a calico tent.</p> + + <p><i>20th November, 1866.</i>—Kanyindula came with three + carriers this morning instead of five, and joined them in + demanding prepayment: it was natural for him to side with them, + as they have more power than he has, in fact, the chiefs in these + parts all court their people, and he could feel more interest in + them than in an entire stranger whom he might never see again: + however, we came on without his people, leaving two to guard the + loads.</p> + + <p>About four miles up the valley we came to a village named + Kanyenjeré Mponda, at the fountain-eye of the Bua, and + thence sent men back for the loads, while we had the shelter of + good huts during a heavy thunder-shower, and made us willing to + remain all night. The valley is lovely in the extreme. The + mountains on each side are gently rounded, and, as usual, covered + over with tree foliage, except where the red soil is exposed by + recent grass-burnings. Quartz rocks jut out, and much drift of + that material has been carried down by the gullies into the + bottom. These gullies being in compact clay, the water has but + little power of erosion, so they are worn deep but narrow. Some + fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with haematite changed by + heat, and magnetic, lay in the gully, <a name="Page_150" id= + "Page_150"></a>which had worn itself a channel on the north side + of the village. The Bua, like most African streams whose sources + I have seen, rises in an oozing boggy spot. Another stream, the + Tembwé, rises near the same spot, and flows N.W. into, the + Loangwa. We saw Shuaré palms in its bed.</p> + + <p><i>21st November, 1866.</i>—We left Bua fountain, lat. + 13° 40' south, and made a short march to Mokatoba, a + stockaded village, where the people refused to admit us till the + headman, came. They have a little food here, and sold us some. We + have been on rather short commons for some time, and this made + our detention agreeable. We rose a little in altitude after + leaving this morning, then, though in the same valley, made a + little descent towards the N.N.W. High winds came driving over + the eastern range, which is called Mchinjé, and bring + large masses of clouds, which are the rain-givers. They seem to + come from the south-east. The scenery of the valley is lovely and + rich in the extreme. All the foliage is fresh washed and clean; + young herbage is bursting through the ground; the air is + deliciously cool, and the birds are singing joyfully: one, called + Mzié, is a good songster, with a loud melodious voice. + Large game abounds, but we do not meet with it.</p> + + <p>We are making our way slowly to the north, where food is said + to be abundant. I divided about 50 lbs. of powder among the + people of my following to shoot with, and buy goats or other food + as we could. This reduces our extra loads to three—four + just now, Simon being sick again. He rubbed goat's-fat on a + blistered surface, and caused an eruption of pimples.</p> + + <p><i>Mem.</i>—The people assent by lifting up the head + instead of nodding it down as we do; deaf mutes are said to do + the same.</p> + + <p><i>22nd November, 1866.</i>—Leaving Mokatoba village, + and proceeding down the valley, which on the north is shut up + apparently by a mountain called Kokwé, we crossed the + <a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a>Kasamba, about two miles + from Mokatoba, and yet found it, though so near its source, four + yards wide, and knee deep. Its source is about a mile above + Mokatoba, in the same valley, with the Bua and Tembwé. We + were told that elephants were near, and we saw where they had + been an hour before; but after seeking about could not find them. + An old man, in the deep defile between Kokwé and Yasika + Mountains, pointed to the latter, and said, "Elephants! why, + there they are. Elephants, or tusks, walking on foot are never + absent;" but though we were eager for flesh, we could not give + him credit, and went down the defile which gives rise to the + Sandili River: where we crossed it in the defile, it was a mere + rill, having large trees along its banks, yet it is said to go to + the Loangwa of Zumbo, N.W. or N.N.W. We were now in fact upon the + slope which inclines to that river, and made a rapid descent in + altitude. We reached Silubi's village, on the base of a rocky + detached hill. No food to be had; all taken by Mazitu, so Silubi + gave me some Masuko fruit instead. They find that they can keep + the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence, and hurling stones + and arrows down on the invaders: they can defend themselves also + by stockades, and these are becoming very general.</p> + + <p>On leaving Silubi's village, we went to a range of hills, and + after passing through found that we had a comparatively level + country on the north: it would be called a well-wooded country if + we looked at it only from a distance. It is formed into long + ridges, all green and wooded; but clumps of large trees, where + villages have been, or are still situated, show that the sylvan + foliage around and over the whole country is that of mere + hop-poles. The whole of this upland region might be called woody, + if we bear in mind that where the population is dense, and has + been long undisturbed, the trees are cut down to the size of low + bush. Large districts are kept to about the size of hop-<a name= + "Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>poles, growing on pollards three or + four feet from the ground, by charcoal burners, who, in all + instances, are smiths too.</p> + + <p>On reaching Zeoré's village, on the Lokuzhwa, we found + it stockaded, and stagnant pools round three sides of it. The + Mazitu had come, pillaged all the surrounding villages, looked at + this, and then went away; so the people had food to sell. They + here call themselves Echéwa, and have a different marking + from the Atumboka. The men have the hair dressed as if a number + of the hairs of elephants' tails were stuck around the head: the + women wear a small lip-ring, and a straw or piece of stick in the + lower lip, which dangles down about level with the lower edge of + the chin: their clothing in front is very scanty. The men know + nothing of distant places, the Manganja being a very stay-at-home + people. The stockades are crowded with huts, and the children + have but small room to play in the narrow spaces between.</p> + + <p><i>25th November, 1866.</i>—Sunday at Zeoré's. + The villagers thought we prayed for rain, which was much needed. + The cracks in the soil have not yet come together by the + «welling of soil produced by moisture. I disabused their + minds about rain-making prayers, and found the headman + intelligent.</p> + + <p>I did not intend to notice the Lokuzhwa, it is such a + contemptible little rill, and not at present running; but in + going to our next point, Mpandé's village, we go along its + valley, and cross it several times, as it makes for the Loangwa + in the north. The valley is of rich dark red loam, and so many + lilies of the Amaryllis kind have established themselves as + completely to mask the colour of the soil. They form a covering + of pure white where the land has been cleared by the hoe. As we + go along this valley to the Loangwa, we descend in altitude. It + is said to rise at "Nombé rumé," as we formerly + heard.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a><i>27th November, + 1866.</i>—Zeoré's people would not carry without + prepayment, so we left our extra loads as usual and went on, + sending men back for them: these, however, did not come till + 27th, and then two of my men got fever. I groan in spirit, and do + not know how to make our gear into nine loads only. It is the + knowledge that we shall be detained, some two or three months + during the heavy rains that makes me cleave to it as means of + support.</p> + + <p>Advantage has been taken by the people, of spots where the + Lokuzhwa goes round three parts of a circle, to erect their + stockaded villages. This is the case here, and the water, being + stagnant, engenders disease. The country abounds in a fine light + blue flowering perennial pea, which the people make use of as a + relish. At present the blossoms only are collected and boiled. On + inquiring the name, <i>chilóbé</i>, the men asked + me if we had none in our country. On replying in the negative, + they looked with pity on us: "What a wretched, country not to + have chilóbé." It is on the highlands above; we + never saw it elsewhere! Another species of pea <i>(Chilobé + Weza)</i>, with reddish flowers, is eaten in the same way; but it + has spread but little in comparison. It is worth remarking that + porridge of maize or sorghum is never offered without some pulse, + beans, or bean leaves, or flowers, they seem to feel the need of + it, or of pulse, which is richer in flesh-formers than the + porridge.</p> + + <p>Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was followed by + several half-suppressed screams by a woman. They were quite + <i>eldritch</i>, as if she could not get them out. Then succeeded + a lot of utterances as if she were in ecstasy, to which a man + responded, "Moio, moio." The utterances, so far as I could catch, + were in five-syllable snatches—abrupt and laboured. I + wonder if this "bubbling or boiling over" has been preserved as + the form in which the true prophets of old gave forth their + "burdens"? One sentence, frequently repeated towards the close of + the effusion, was "<i>linyama uta</i>," "<a name="Page_154" id= + "Page_154"></a>flesh of the bow," showing that the Pythoness + loved venison killed by the bow. The people applauded, and + attended, hoping, I suppose, that rain would follow her efforts. + Next day she was duly honoured by drumming and dancing.<a name= + "FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a></p> + + <p>Prevalent beliefs seem to be persistent in certain tribes. + That strange idea of property in man that permits him to be sold + to another is among the Arabs, Manganja, Makoa, Waiyau, but not + among Kaffirs or Zulus, and Bechuanas. If we exclude the Arabs, + two families of Africans alone are slavers on the east side of + the Continent.</p> + + <p><i>30th November, 1866.</i>—We march to Chilunda's or + Embora's, still on the Lokuzhwa, now a sand-stream about twenty + yards wide, with pools in its bed; its course is pretty much + north or N.N.W. We are now near the Loangwa country, covered with + a dense dwarf forest, and the people collected in stockades. This + village is on a tongue of land (between Lokuzhwa and another + sluggish rivulet), chosen for its strength. It is close to a hill + named Chipemba, and there are ranges of hills both east and west + in the distance. Embora came to visit us soon after we + arrived—a tall man with a Yankee face. He was very much + tickled when asked if he were a Motumboka. After indulging in + laughter at the idea of being one of such a small tribe of + Manganja, he said proudly, "That he belonged to the + Echéwa, who inhabited all the country to which I was + going." They are generally smiths; a mass of iron had just been + brought in to him from some outlying furnaces. It is made into + hoes, which are sold for native cloths down the Loangwa.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a><i>3rd December, + 1866.</i>—March through a hilly country covered with dwarf + forest to Kandé's village, still on the Lokuzhwa. We made + some westing. The village was surrounded by a dense hedge of + bamboo and a species of bushy fig that loves edges of + water-bearing streams: it is not found where the moisture is not + perennial. Kandé is a fine tall smith; I asked him if he + knew his antecedents; he said he had been bought by Babisa at + Chipéta, and left at Chilunda's, and therefore belonged to + no one. Two Waiyau now volunteered to go on with us, and as they + declared their masters were killed by the Mazitu, and + Kandé seemed to confirm them, we let them join. In + general, runaway slaves are bad characters, but these two seem + good men, and we want them to fill up our complement: another + volunteer we employ as goatherd.</p> + + <p>A continuous tap-tapping in the villages shows that bark cloth + is being made. The bark, on being removed from the-tree, is + steeped in water, or in a black muddy hole, till the outer of the + two inner barks can be separated, then commences the tapping with + a mallet to separate and soften the fibres. The head of this is + often of ebony, with the face cut into small furrows, which, + without breaking, separate and soften the fibres.</p> + + <div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> + <a name="p155" id="p155"></a> <img src="images/p155.png" width= + "200" height="185" alt="Mallet for Separating Fibres of Bark." + title="Mallet for Separating Fibres of Bark." /> <b>Mallet for + Separating Fibres of Bark.</b> + </div> + + <p><i>4th December, 1866.</i>—Marched westwards, over a + hilly, dwarf forest-covered country: as we advanced, trees + increased in size, but no people inhabited it; we spent a + miserable night at Katétté, wetted by a heavy + thunder-shower, which lasted a good while. Morning <i>(5th + December</i>) muggy, clouded all over, and rolling thunder in + distance. Went three hours with, for a wonder, no water, but made + westing chiefly, and got on to the Lokuzhwa again: all the people + are collected on it.</p> + + <p><i>6th December, 1866.</i>—Too ill to march.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a><i>7th December, + 1866.</i>—Went on, and passed Mesumbé's village, + also protected by bamboos, and came to the hill Mparawé, + with a village perched on its northern base and well up its + sides. The Babisa have begun to imitate the Mazitu by attacking + and plundering Manganja villages. Muasi's brother was so + attacked, and now is here and eager to attack in return. In + various villages we have observed miniature huts, about two feet + high, very neatly thatched and plastered, here we noticed them in + dozens. On inquiring, we were told that when a child or relative + dies one is made, and when any pleasant food is cooked or beer + brewed, a little is placed in the tiny hut for the departed soul, + which is believed to enjoy it.</p> + + <p>The Lokuzhwa is here some fifty yards wide, and running. + Numerous large pitholes in the fine-grained schist in its bed + show that much water has flowed in it.</p> + + <p><i>8th December, 1866.</i>—A kind of bean called + "chitetta" is eaten here, it is an old acquaintance in the + Bechuana country, where it is called "mositsané," and is a + mere plant; here it becomes a tree, from fifteen to twenty feet + high. The root is used for tanning; the bean is pounded, and then + put into a sieve of bark cloth to extract, by repeated washings, + the excessively astringent matter it contains. Where the people + have plenty of water, as here, it is used copiously in various + processes, among Bechuanas it is scarce, and its many uses + unknown: the pod becomes from fifteen to eighteen inches long, + and an inch in diameter.</p> + + <p><i>9th December, 1866.</i>—A poor child, whose mother + had died, was unprovided for; no one not a relative will nurse + another's child. It called out piteously for its mother by name, + and the women (like the servants in the case of the poet Cowper + when a child), said, "She is coming." I gave it a piece of bread, + but it was too far gone, and is dead to-day.</p> + + <p>An alarm of Mazitu sent all the villagers up the sides of + <a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>Mparawé this morning. + The affair was a chase of a hyaena, but everything is Mazitu! The + Babisa came here, but were surrounded and nearly all cut off. + Muasi was so eager to be off with a party to return the attack on + the Mazitu, that, when deputed by the headman to give us a guide, + he got the man to turn at the first village, so we had to go on + without guides, and made about due north.</p> + + <p><i>11th December, 1866.</i>—We are now detained in the + forest, at a place called Chondé Forest, by set-in rains. + It rains every day, and generally in the afternoon; but the + country is not wetted till the "set-in" rains commence; the + cracks in the soil then fill up and everything rushes up with + astonishing rapidity; the grass is quite crisp and soft. After + the fine-grained schist, we came on granite with large flakes of + talc in it. This forest is of good-sized trees, many of them + mopané. The birds now make much melody and noise—all + intent on building.</p> + + <p><i>12th December, 1866.</i>—Across an undulating forest + country north we got a man to show us the way, if a pathless + forest can so be called. We used a game-path as long as it ran + north, but left it when it deviated, and rested under a + baobab-tree with a marabou's nest—a bundle of sticks on a + branch; the young ones uttered a hard chuck, chuck, when the old + ones flew over them. A sun-bird, with bright scarlet throat and + breast, had its nest on another branch, it was formed like the + weaver's nest, but without a tube. I observed the dam picking out + insects from the bark and leaves of the baobab, keeping on the + wing the while: it would thus appear to be insectivorous as well + as a honey-bibber. Much spoor of elands, zebras, gnus, kamas, + pallahs, buffaloes, reed-bucks, with tsetse, their parasites.</p> + + <p><i>13th December, 1866.</i>—Reached the Tokosusi, which + is said to rise at Nombé Rumé, about twenty yards + wide and knee deep, swollen by the rains: it had left a cake of + black tenacious mud on its banks. Here I got a pallah antelope, + and <a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>a very strange flower + called "katendé," which was a whorl of seventy-two flowers + sprung from a flat, round root; but it cannot be described. Our + guide would have crossed the Tokosusi, which was running + north-west to join the Loangwa, and then gone to that river; but + always when we have any difficulty the "lazies" exhibit + themselves. We had no grain; and three remained behind spending + four hours at what we did in an hour and a quarter. Our guide + became tired and turned, not before securing another; but he + would not go over the Loangwa; no one likes to go out of his own + country: he would go westwards to Maranda's, and nowhere else. A + "set-in" rain came on after dark, and we went on through slush, + the trees sending down heavier drops than the showers as we + neared the Loangwa; we forded several deep gullies, all flowing + north or north-west into it. The paths were running with water, + and when we emerged from the large Mopané Forest, we came + on the plain of excessively adhesive mud, on which Maranda's + stronghold stands on the left bank of Loangwa, here a good-sized + river. The people were all afraid of us, and we were mortified to + find that food is scarce. The Mazitu have been here three times, + and the fear they have inspired, though they were successfully + repelled, has prevented agricultural operations from being + carried on.</p> + + <p><i>Mem.</i>—A flake of reed is often used in surgical + operations among the natives, as being sharper than their + knives.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> A cloth + means two yards of unbleached calico.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Chuma + remembers part of the words of her song to be as + follows:—</p> + + <p><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Kowé! kowé! + n'andambwi,</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">M'vula léru, + korolé ko okwé,</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Waie, ona, kordi, + mvula!</span><br /></p> + + <p>He cannot translate it as it is pure Manganja, but with + the exception of the first line—which relates to a + little song-bird with a beautiful note, it is a mere + reiteration "rain will surely come to-day."—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><a name="Page_159" + id="Page_159"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. + Great hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of + goats. Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu + again. Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim + of the great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal + gives out. Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the + Chambezé. Death of Chitané. Great pinch for food. + Disastrous loss of medicine chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The + Chambezé. Beaches Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders + from Zanzibar. Sends off letters. Chitapangwa and his people. + Complications.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>16th December, 1866.</i>—We could get no food at any + price on 15th, so we crossed the Loangwa, and judged it to be + from seventy to a hundred yards wide: it is deep at present, and + it must always be so, for some Atumboka submitted to the Mazitu, + and ferried them over and back again. The river is said to rise + in the north; it has alluvial banks with large forest trees along + them, bottom sandy, and great sandbanks are in it like the + Zambesi. No guide would come, so we went on without one. The + "lazies" of the party seized the opportunity of remaining + behind—wandering, as they said, though all the cross paths + were marked.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id= + "FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class= + "fnanchor">[36]</a> This evening we secured the latitude 12° + 40' 48" S., which would make our crossing place about 12° 45' + S. Clouds prevented observations, as they usually do in the rainy + season.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a><i>17 December, + 1866.</i>—We went on through a bushy country without paths, + and struck the Pamazi, a river of sixty yards wide, in steep + banks and in flood, and held on as well as we could through a + very difficult country, the river forcing us north-west: I heard + hippopotami in it. Game is abundant but wild; we shot two poku + antelopes<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id= + "FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class= + "fnanchor">[37]</a> here, called "tsébulas," which drew a + hunter to us, who consented for meat and pay to show us a ford. + He said that the Pamazi rises in a range of mountains we can now + see (in general we could see no high ground during our marches + for the last fortnight), we forded it, thigh deep on one side and + breast deep on the other. We made only about three miles of + northing, and found the people on the left bank uncivil: they + would not lend a hut, so we soon put up a tent of waterproof + cloth and branches.</p> + + <p><i>18th December, 1866.</i>—As the men grumbled at their + feet being pierced by thorns in the trackless portions we had + passed I was anxious to get a guide, but the only one we could + secure would go to Molenga's only; so I submitted, though this + led us east instead of north. When we arrived we were asked what + we wanted, seeing we brought neither slaves nor ivory: I replied + it was much against our will that we came; but the guide had + declared that this was the only way to Casembe's, our next stage. + To get rid of us they gave a guide, and we set forward + northwards. The Mopané Forest is perfectly level, and + after rains the water stands in pools; but during most of the + year it is dry. The trees here were very large, and planted some + twenty or thirty yards apart: as there are no branches on their + lower parts animals see very far. I shot a gnu, but wandered in + coming back to the party, and did not find them till it was + getting dark. Many parts of the plain are thrown up into heaps, + of about the size of one's cap <a name="Page_161" id= + "Page_161"></a>(probably by crabs), which now, being hard, are + difficult to walk over; under the trees it is perfectly smooth. + The Mopané-tree furnishes the iron wood of the Portuguese + Pao Ferro: it is pretty to travel in and look at the bright + sunshine of early morning; but the leaves hang perpendicularly as + the sun rises high, and afford little or no shade through the + day,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> so as the land is + clayey, it becomes hard-baked thereby.</p> + + <p>We observed that the people had placed corn-granaries at + different parts of this forest, and had been careful to leave no + track to them—a provision in case of further visits of + Mazitu. King-hunters<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id= + "FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class= + "fnanchor">[39]</a> abound, and make the air resound with their + stridulous notes, which commence with a sharp, shrill cheep, and + then follows a succession of notes, which resembles a pea in a + whistle. Another bird is particularly conspicuous at present by + its chattering activity, its nest consists of a bundle of fine + seed-stalks of grass hung at the end of a branch, the free ends + being left untrimmed, and no attempt at concealment made. Many + other birds are now active, and so many new notes are heard, that + it is probable this is a richer ornithological region than the + Zambesi. Guinea-fowl and francolins are in abundance, and so + indeed are all the other kinds of game, as zebras, pallahs, + gnus.</p> + + <p><i>19th December, 1866.</i>—I got a fine male kudu. We + have no grain, and live on meat alone, but I am better off than + the men, inasmuch as I get a little goat's-milk besides. The kudu + stood five feet six inches high; horns, three feet on the + straight.</p> + + <p><i>20th December, 1866.</i>—Reached Casembe,<a name= + "FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> a miserable hamlet + <a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>of a few huts. The people + here are very suspicious, and will do nothing but with a haggle + for prepayment; we could get no grain, nor even native herbs, + though we rested a day to try.</p> + + <p>After a short march we came to the Nyamazi, another + considerable rivulet coming from the north to fall into the + Loangwa. It has the same character, of steep alluvial banks, as + Pamazi, and about the same width, but much shallower; loin deep, + though somewhat swollen; from fifty to sixty yards wide. We came + to some low hills, of coarse sandstone, and on crossing these we + could see, by looking back, that for many days we had been + travelling over a perfectly level valley, clothed with a mantle + of forest. The barometers had shown no difference of level from + about 1800 feet above the sea. We began our descent into this + great valley when we left the source of the Bua; and now these + low hills, called Ngalé or Ngaloa, though only 100 feet or + so above the level we had left, showed that we had come to the + shore of an ancient lake, which probably was let off when the + rent of Kebra-basa on the Zambesi was made, for we found immense + banks of well-rounded shingle above—or, rather, they may be + called mounds of shingle—all of hard silicious schist with + a few pieces of fossil-wood among them. The gullies reveal a + stratum of this well-rounded shingle, lying on a soft greenish + sandstone, which again lies on the coarse sandstone first + observed. This formation is identical with that observed formerly + below the Victoria Falls. We have the mountains still on our + north and north-west (the so-called mountains of Bisa, or + Babisa), and from them the Nyamazi flows, while Pamazi comes + round the end, or what appears to be the end, of the higher + portion. <i>(22nd December, 1866.)</i> Shot a bush-buck; and + slept on the left bank of Nyamazi.</p> + + <p><i>23rd December, 1866.</i>—Hunger sent us on; for a + meat diet is far from satisfying: we all felt very weak on it, + and soon <a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>tired on a march, + but to-day we hurried on to Kavimba, who successfully beat off + the Mazitu. It is very hot, and between three and four hours is a + good day's march. On sitting down to rest before entering the + village we were observed, and all the force of the village issued + to kill us as Mazitu, but when we stood up the mistake was + readily perceived, and the arrows were placed again in their + quivers. In the hut four Mazitu shields show that they did not + get it all their own way; they are miserable imitations of Zulu + shields, made of eland and water-buck's hides, and ill sewn.</p> + + <p>A very small return present was made by Kavimba, and nothing + could be bought except at exorbitant prices. We remained all day + on the 24th haggling and trying to get some grain. He took a + fancy to a shirt, and left it to his wife to bargain for. She got + the length of cursing and swearing, and we bore it, but could get + only a small price for it. We resolved to hold our Christmas some + other day, and in a better place. The women seem ill-regulated + here—Kavimba's brother had words with his spouse, and at + the end of every burst of vociferation on both sides called out, + "Bring the Muavi! bring the Muavi!" or ordeal.</p> + + <p><i>Christmas-day, 1866.</i>—No one being willing to + guide us to Moerwa's, I hinted to Kavimba that should we see a + rhinoceros I would kill it. He came himself, and led us on where + he expected to find these animals, but we saw only their + footsteps. We lost our four goats somewhere—stolen or + strayed in the pathless forest, we do not know which, but the + loss I felt very keenly, for whatever kind of food we had, a + little milk made all right, and I felt strong and well, but + coarse food hard of digestion without it was very trying. We + spent the 26th in searching for them, but all in vain. Kavimba + had a boy carrying two huge elephant spears, with these he + attacks that large animal single-handed. We parted from him, as I + thought, good friends, but a man who volunteered to act as guide + saw him in the forest <a name="Page_164" id= + "Page_164"></a>afterwards, and was counselled by him to leave us + as we should not pay him. This hovering near us after we parted + makes me suspect Kavimba of taking the goats, but I am not + certain. The loss affected me more than I could have imagined. A + little indigestible porridge, of scarcely any taste, is now my + fare, and it makes me dream of better.</p> + + <p><i>27th December, 1866.</i>—Our guide asked for his + cloth to wear on the way, as it was wet and raining, and his bark + cloth was a miserable covering. I consented, and he bolted on the + first opportunity; the forest being so dense he was soon out of + reach of pursuit: he had been advised to this by Kavimba, and + nothing else need have been expected. We then followed the track + of a travelling party of Babisa, but the grass springs up over + the paths, and it was soon lost: the rain had fallen early in + these parts, and the grass was all in seed. In the afternoon we + came to the hills in the north where Nyamazi rises, and went up + the bed of a rivulet for some time, and then ascended out of the + valley. At the bottom of the ascent and in the rivulet the + shingle stratum was sometimes fifty feet thick, then as we + ascended we met mica schist tilted on edge, then grey gneiss, and + last an igneous trap among quartz rocks, with a great deal of + bright mica and talc in them. On resting near the top of the + first ascent two honey hunters came to us. They were using the + honey-guide as an aid, the bird came to us as they arrived, + waited quietly during the half-hour they smoked and chatted, and + then went on with them.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id= + "FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class= + "fnanchor">[41]</a></p> + + <p>The tsetse flies, which were very numerous at the bottom, came + up the ascent with us, but as we increased our altitude by + another thousand feet they gradually dropped off and left us: + only one remained in the evening, and he <a name="Page_165" id= + "Page_165"></a>seemed out of spirits. Near sunset we encamped by + water on the cool height, and made our shelters with boughs of + leafy trees; mine was rendered perfect by Dr. Stenhouse's + invaluable patent cloth, which is very superior to mackintosh: + indeed the india-rubber cloth is not to be named in the same day + with it.</p> + + <p><i>28th December, 1866.</i>—Three men, going to hunt + bees, came to us as we were starting and assured us that Moerwa's + was near. The first party had told us the same thing, and so + often have we gone long distances as "<i>pafupi</i>" (near), when + in reality they were "<i>patari</i>" (far), that we begin to + think <i>pafupi</i> means "I wish you to go there," and + <i>patari</i> the reverse. In this case <i>near</i> meant an hour + and three-quarters from our sleeping-place to Moerwa's!</p> + + <p>When we look back from the height to which we have ascended we + see a great plain clothed with dark green forest except at the + line of yellowish grass, where probably the Loangwa flows. On the + east and south-east this plain is bounded at the extreme range of + our vision by a wall of dim blue mountains forty or fifty miles + off. The Loangwa is said to rise in the Chibalé country + due north of this Malambwé (in which district Moerwa's + village is situated), and to flow S.E., then round to where we + found it.</p> + + <p>Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man, though + he has a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, and tried the + usual little arts of getting us to buy all we need here though + the prices are exorbitant. "No people in front, great hunger + there." "We must buy food here and carry it to support us." On + asking the names of the next headman he would not inform me, till + I told him to try and speak like a man; he then told us that the + first Lobemba chief was Motuna, and the next Chafunga. We have + nothing, as we saw no animals in our way hither, and hunger is + ill to bear. By giving Moerwa a good large cloth he was induced + to cook a mess of maëre or millet and elephant's stomach; it + was so good to get a full meal <a name="Page_166" id= + "Page_166"></a>that I could have given him another cloth, and the + more so as it was accompanied by a message that he would cook + more next day and in larger quantity. On inquiring next evening + he said "the man had told lies," he had cooked nothing more: he + was prone to lie himself, and was a rather bad specimen of a + chief.</p> + + <p>The Babisa have round bullet heads, snub noses, often high + cheek-bones, an upward slant of the eyes, and look as if they had + a lot of Bushman blood in them, and a good many would pass for + Bushmen or Hottentots. Both Babisa and Waiyau may have a mixture + of the race, which would account for their roving habits. The + women have the fashion of exposing the upper part of the buttocks + by letting a very stiff cloth fall down behind. Their teeth are + filed to points, they wear no lip-ring, and the hair is parted so + as to lie in a net at the back part of the head. The mode of + salutation among the men is to lie down nearly on the back, + clapping the hands, and making a rather inelegant half-kissing + sound with the lips.</p> + + <p><i>29th December, 1866.</i>—We remain a day at + Malambwé, but get nothing save a little + maëre,<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id= + "FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class= + "fnanchor">[42]</a> which grates in the teeth and in the stomach. + To prevent the Mazitu starving them they cultivate small round + patches placed at wide intervals in the forest, with which the + country is covered. The spot, some ten yards or a little more in + diameter, is manured with ashes and planted with this millet and + pumpkins, in order that should Mazitu come they may be unable to + carry off the pumpkins, or gather the millet, the seed of which + is very small. They have no more valour than the other Africans, + but more craft, and are much given to falsehood. They will not + answer common questions except by misstatements, but this may + arise in our case from our being in disfavour, because we will + not sell all our goods to them for ivory.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a><i>30th December, + 1866.</i>—Marched for Chitemba's, because it is said he has + not fled from the Mazitu, and therefore has food to spare. While + resting, Moerwa, with all his force of men, women, and dogs, came + up, on his way to hunt elephants. The men were furnished with big + spears, and their dogs are used to engage the animal's attention + while they spear it; the women cook the meat and make huts, and a + smith goes with them to mend any spear that may be broken.</p> + + <p>We pass over level plateaux on which the roads are wisely + placed, and do not feel that we are travelling in a mountainous + region. It is all covered with dense forest, which in many cases + is pollarded, from being cut for bark cloth or for hunting + purposes. Masuko fruit abounds. From the cisalpinae and gum-copal + trees bark cloth is made.</p> + + <p>We now come to large masses of haematite, which is often + ferruginous: there is conglomerate too, many quartz pebbles being + intermixed. It seems as if when the lakes existed in the lower + lands, the higher levels gave forth great quantities of water + from chalybeate fountains, which deposited this iron ore. Grey + granite or quartz with talc in it or gneiss lie under the + haematite.</p> + + <p>The forest resounds with singing birds, intent on + nidification. Francolins abound, but are wild. "Whip-poor-wills," + and another bird, which has a more laboured treble note and + voice—"Oh, oh, oh!" Gay flowers blush unseen, but the + people have a good idea of what is eatable and what not. I looked + at a woman's basket of leaves which she had collected for supper, + and it contained eight or ten kinds, with mushrooms and + orchidaceous flowers. We have a succession of showers to-day, + from N.E. and E.N.E. We are uncertain when we shall come to a + village, as the Babisa will not tell us where they are situated. + In the evening we encamped beside a little rill, and made our + shelters, but we had so little to eat that I dreamed the night + long of dinners I had eaten, and might have been eating.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>I shall make this + beautiful land better known, which is an essential part of the + process by which it will become the "pleasant haunts of men." It + is impossible to describe its rich luxuriance, but most of it is + running to waste through the slave-trade and internal wars.</p> + + <p><i>31st December, 1866.</i>—When we started this morning + after rain, all the trees and grass dripping, a lion roared, but + we did not see him. A woman had come a long way and built a neat + miniature hut in the burnt-out ruins of her mother's house: the + food-offering she placed in it, and the act of filial piety, no + doubt comforted this poor mourner's heart!</p> + + <p>We arrived at Chitembo's village and found it deserted. The + Babisa dismantle their huts and carry off the thatch to their + gardens, where they live till harvest is over. This fallowing of + the framework destroys many insects, but we observed that + wherever Babisa and Arab slavers go they leave the breed of the + domestic bug: it would be well if that were all the ill they did! + Chitembo was working in his garden when we arrived, but soon + came, and gave us the choice of all the standing huts: he is an + old man, much more frank and truthful than our last headman, and + says that Chitapanga is paramount chief of all the Abemba.</p> + + <p>Three or four women whom we saw performing a rain dance at + Moerwa's were here doing the same; their faces smeared with meal, + and axes in their hands, imitating as well as they could the male + voice. I got some maëre or millet here and a fowl.</p> + + <p>We now end 1866. It has not been so fruitful or useful as I + intended. Will try to do better in 1867, and be better—more + gentle and loving; and may the Almighty, to whom I commit my way, + bring my desires to pass, and prosper me! Let all the sins of '66 + be blotted out for Jesus' sake.</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p><i>1st January, 1867.</i>—May He who was full of grace + and truth impress His character on mine. Grace—eagerness to + <a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>show favour; + truth—truthfulness, sincerity, honour—for His mercy's + sake.</p> + + <p>We remain to-day at Mbulukuta-Chitembo's district, by the + boys' desire, because it is New Year's day, and also because we + can get some food.</p> + + <p><i>2nd and 3rd January, 1867.</i>—Remain on account of a + threatened <i>set-in</i> rain. Bought a senzé + <i>(Aulocaudatus Swindernianus)</i>, a rat-looking animal; but I + was glad to get anything in the shape of meat.</p> + + <p><i>4th January, 1867.</i>—It is a <i>set-in</i> rain. + The boiling-point thermometer shows an altitude of 3565 feet + above the sea. Barometer, 3983 feet ditto. We get a little + maëre here, and prefer it to being drenched and our goods + spoiled. We have neither sugar nor salt, so there are no soluble + goods; but cloth and gunpowder get damaged easily. It is hard + fare and scanty; I feel always hungry, and am constantly dreaming + of better food when I should be sleeping. Savoury viands of + former times come vividly up before the imagination, even in my + waking hours; this is rather odd as I am not a dreamer; indeed I + scarcely ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually + so.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a></p> + + <p>We are on the northern brim (or north-western rather) of the + great Loangwa Valley we lately crossed: the rain coming from the + east strikes it, and is deposited both above and below, while + much of the valley itself is not yet well wetted. Here all the + grasses have run up to seed, and yet they are not more than two + feet or so in the seed-stalks. The pasturage is very fine. The + people employ these continuous or <i>set-in</i> rains for hunting + the elephant, which gets bogged, and sinks in from fifteen to + eighteen inches in soft <a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>mud, + then even he, the strong one, feels it difficult to + escape.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a></p> + + <p><i>5th January, 1867.</i>—Still storm-stayed. We shall + be off as soon as we get a fair day and these heavy rains + cease.</p> + + <p><i>6th January, 1867.</i>—After service two men came and + said that they were going to Lobemba, and would guide us to + Motuna's village; another came a day or two ago, but he had such + a villainous look we all shrank from him. These men's faces + pleased us, but they did not turn out all we expected, for they + guided us away westwards without a path: it was a drizzling rain, + and this made us averse to striking off in the forest without + them. No inhabitants now except at wide intervals, and no animals + either. In the afternoon we came to a deep ravine full of + gigantic timber trees and bamboos, with the Mavoché River + at the bottom. The dampness had caused the growth of lichens all + over the trees, and the steep descent was so slippery that two + boys fell, and he who carried the chronometers, twice: this was a + misfortune, as it altered the rates, as was seen by the first + comparison of them together in the evening. No food at Motuna's + village, yet the headman tried to extort two fathoms of calico on + the ground that he was owner of the country: we offered to go out + of his village and make our own sheds on "God's land," that is, + where it is uncultivated, rather than have any words about it: he + then begged us to stay. A very high mountain called + Chikokwé appeared W.S.W. from this village; the people who + live on it are called Matumba; this part is named Lokumbi, but + whatever the name, all the people are Babisa, the dependants of + the Babemba, reduced by their own slaving habits to a miserable + jungly state. They feed much on wild fruits, roots, and leaves; + and yet are generally plump. They use a wooden hoe for <a name= + "Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>sowing their maëre, it is a + sort of V-shaped implement, made from a branch with another + springing out of it, about an inch in diameter at the sharp + point, and with it they claw the soil after scattering the seed; + about a dozen young men were so employed in the usual small + patches as we passed in the morning.</p> + + <p>The country now exhibits the extreme of leafiness and the + undulations are masses of green leaves; as far as the eye can + reach with distinctness it rests on a mantle of that hue, and + beyond the scene becomes dark blue. Near at hand many gay flowers + peep out. Here and there the scarlet martagón (<i>Lilium + chalcedonicum</i>), bright blue or yellow gingers; red, orange, + yellow, and pure white orchids; pale lobelias, &c.; but they + do not mar the general greenness. As we ascended higher on the + plateau, grasses, which have pink and reddish brown seed-vessels + imparted distinct shades of their colours to the lawns, and were + grateful to the eye. We turned aside early in our march to avoid + being wetted by rains, and took shelter in some old Babisa sheds; + these, when the party is a slaving one, are built so as to form a + circle, with but one opening: a ridge pole, or rather a + succession of ridge poles, form one long shed all round, with no + partitions in the roof-shaped hut.</p> + + <p>On the <i>9th of January</i> we ascended a hardened sandstone + range. Two men who accompanied our guide called out every now and + then to attract the attention of the honey-guide, but none + appeared. A water-buck had been killed and eaten at one spot, the + ground showing marks of a severe struggle, but no game was to be + seen. Buffaloes and elephants come here at certain seasons; at + present they have migrated elsewhere. The valleys are very + beautiful: the oozes are covered with a species of short wiry + grass, which gives the valleys the appearance of well-kept + gentlemen's parks; but they are full of water to + overflowing—immense sponges in fact;—and one has to + watch carefully in crossing them to avoid plunging into deep + water-holes, <a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>made by the + feet of elephants or buffaloes. In the ooze generally the water + comes half-way up the shoe, and we go plash, plash, plash, in the + lawn-like glade. There are no people here now in these lovely + wild valleys; but to-day we came to mounds made of old for + planting grain, and slag from iron furnaces. The guide was rather + offended because he did not get meat and meal, though he is + accustomed to leaves at home, and we had none to give except by + wanting ourselves: he found a mess without much labour in the + forest. My stock of meal came to an end to-day, but Simon gave me + some of his. It is not the unpleasantness of eating unpalatable + food that teases one, but we are never satisfied; I could brace + myself to dispose of a very unsavoury mess, and think no more + about it; but this maëre engenders a craving which plagues + day and night incessantly.</p> + + <p><i>10th January, 1867.</i>—We crossed the Muasi, flowing + strongly to the east to the Loangwa River.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon an excessively heavy thunderstorm wetted us + all to the skin before any shelter could be made. Two of our men + wandered, and other two remained behind lost, as our track was + washed out by the rains. The country is a succession of enormous + waves, all covered with jungle, and no traces of paths; we were + in a hollow, and our firing was not heard till this morning, when + we ascended a height and were answered. I am thankful that up one + was lost, for a man might wander a long time before reaching a + village. Simon gave me a little more of his meal this morning, + and went without himself: I took my belt up three holes to + relieve hunger. We got some wretched wild fruit like that called + "jambos" in India, and at midday reached the village of Chafunga. + Famine here too, but some men had killed an elephant and came to + sell the dried meat: it was high, and so were their prices; but + we are obliged to give our best from this craving hunger.</p> + + <p><i>12th January, 1867.</i>—Sitting down this morning + near a tree my head was just one yard off a good-sized cobra, + coiled up <a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>in the sprouts at + its root, but it was benumbed with cold: a very pretty little + puff-adder lay in the path, also benumbed; it is seldom that any + harm is done by these reptiles here, although it is different in + India. We bought up all the food we could get; but it did not + suffice for the marches we expect to make to get to the + Chambezé, where food is said to be abundant, we were + therefore again obliged to travel on Sunday. We had prayers + before starting; but I always feel that I am not doing fight, it + lessens the sense of obligation in the minds of my companions; + but I have no choice. We went along a rivulet till it ended in a + small lake, Mapampa or Chimbwé, about five miles long, and + one and a half broad. It had hippopotami, and the poku fed on its + banks.</p> + + <p><i>15th January, 1867.</i>—We had to cross the + Chimbwé at its eastern end, where it is fully a mile wide. + The guide refused to show another and narrower ford up the + stream, which emptied into it from the east; and I, being the + first to cross, neglected to give orders about the poor little + dog, Chitané. The water was waist deep, the bottom soft + peaty stuff with deep holes in it, and the northern side infested + by leeches. The boys were—like myself—all too much + engaged with preserving their balance to think of the spirited + little beast, and he must have swam till he sunk. He was so + useful in keeping all the country curs off our huts; none dare to + approach and steal, and he never stole himself. He shared the + staring of the people with his master, then in the march he took + charge of the whole party, running to the front, and again to the + rear, to see that all was right. He was becoming yellowish-red in + colour; and, poor thing, perished in what the boys all call + Chitané's water.</p> + + <p><i>16th January, 1867.</i>—March through the mountains, + which are of beautiful white and pink dolomite, scantily covered + with upland trees and vegetation. The rain, as usual, made us + halt early, and wild fruits helped to induce us to stay.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>In one place we lighted + on a party of people living on Masuko fruit, and making mats of + the Shuaré<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id= + "FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class= + "fnanchor">[45]</a> palm petioles. We have hard lines ourselves; + nothing but a little maëre porridge and dampers. We roast a + little grain, and boil it, to make believe it is coffee. The + guide, a maundering fellow, turned because he was not fed better + than at home, and because he knew that but for his obstinacy we + should not have lost the dog. It is needless to repeat that it is + all forest on the northern slopes of the mountains—open + glade and miles of forest; ground at present all sloppy; oozes + full and overflowing—feet constantly wet. Rivulets rush + strongly with <i>clear</i> water, though they are in flood: we + can guess which are perennial and which mere torrents that dry + up; they flow northwards and westwards to the + Chambezé.</p> + + <p><i>17th January, 1867.</i>—Detained in an old Babisa + slaving encampment by set-in rain till noon, then set off in the + midst of it. Came to hills of dolomite, but all the rocks were + covered with white lichens (ash-coloured). The path took us + thence along a ridge, which separates the Lotiri, running + westwards, and the Lobo, going northwards, and we came at length + to the Lobo, travelling along its banks till we reached the + village called Lisunga, which was about five yards broad, and + very deep, in flood, with clear water, as indeed are all the + rivulets now; they can only be crossed by felling a tree on the + bant and letting it fall across. They do not abrade their + banks—vegetation protects them. I observed that the brown + ibis, a noisy bird, took care to restrain his loud, harsh voice + when driven from the tree in which his nest was placed, and when + about a quarter of a mile off, then commenced his loud + "Ha-ha-ha!"</p> + + <p><i>18th January, 1867.</i>—The headman of Lisunga, + Chaokila, took our present, and gave nothing in return. A deputy + from Chitapangwa came afterwards and demanded a larger <a name= + "Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>present, as he was the greater man, + and said that if we gave him two fathoms of calico, he would + order all the people to bring plenty of food, not here only, but + all the way to the paramount chief of Lobemba, Chitapangwa. I + proposed that he should begin by ordering Chaokila to give us + some in return for our present. This led, as Chaokila told us, to + the cloth being delivered to the deputy, and we saw that all the + starvelings south of the Chambezé were poor dependants on + the Babemba, or rather their slaves, who cultivate little, and + then only in the rounded patches above mentioned, so as to + prevent their conquerors from taking away more than a small + share. The subjects are Babisa—a miserable lying lot of + serfs. This tribe is engaged in the slave-trade, and the evil + effects are seen in their depopulated country and utter distrust + of every one.</p> + + <p><i>19th January, 1867.</i>—Raining most of the day. + Worked out the longitude of the mountain-station said to be + Mpini, but it will be better to name it Chitané's, as I + could not get the name from our maundering guide; he probably did + not know it. Lat, 11° 9' 2" S.; long. 32° 1' 30" E.</p> + + <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Altitude above sea + (barometer) 5353 feet;</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Altitude above sea + (boiling-point) 5385 feet.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 19.5em;">——</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 17.5em;">Diff. 32.<a name= + "FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></span><br /></p> + + <p>Nothing but famine and famine prices, the people living on + mushrooms and leaves. Of mushrooms we observed that they choose + five or six kinds, and rejected ten sorts. One species becomes as + large as the crown of a man's hat; it is pure white, with a blush + of brown in the middle of the crown, and is very good roasted; it + is named "Motenta;" another, Mofeta; 3rd, Boséfwé; + 4th, Nakabausa; 5th, Chisimbé, lobulated, green outside, + and pink and fleshy inside; <a name="Page_176" id= + "Page_176"></a>as a relish to others: some experience must have + been requisite to enable them to distinguish the good from the + noxious, of which they reject ten sorts.</p> + + <p>We get some elephants' meat from the people, but high is no + name for its condition. It is very bitter, but we used it as a + relish to the maëre porridge: none of the animal is wasted; + skin and all is cut up and sold, not one of us would touch it + with the hand if we had aught else, for the gravy in which we dip + our porridge is like an aqueous solution of aloes, but it + prevents the heartburn, which maëre causes when taken alone. + I take mushrooms boiled instead; but the meat is never refused + when we can purchase it, as it seems to ease the feeling of + fatigue which jungle-fruit and fare engenders. The appetite in + this country is always very keen, and makes hunger worse to bear: + the want of salt, probably, makes the gnawing sensation + worse.</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p>[We now come to a disaster which cannot be exaggerated in + importance when we witness its after effects month by month on + Dr. Livingstone. There can be little doubt that the severity of + his subsequent illnesses mainly turned upon it, and it is hardly + too much to believe that his constitution from this time was + steadily sapped by the effects of fever-poison which he was + powerless to counteract, owing to the want of quinine. In his + allusion to Bishop Mackenzie's death, we have only a further + confirmation of the one rule in all such cases which must be + followed, or the traveller in Africa goes—not with his life + in his hand, but in some luckless box, put in the charge of + careless servants. Bishop Mackenzie had all his drugs destroyed + by the upsetting of a canoe, in which was his case of medicines, + and in a moment everything was soaked and spoilt.</p> + + <p>It cannot be too strongly urged on explorers that they should + divide their more important medicines in such a way that a + <i>total loss</i> shall become well-nigh impossible. Three + <a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>or four tin canisters + containing some calomel, Dover's powder, colocynth, and, above + all, a supply of quinine, can be distributed in different + packages, and then, if a mishap occurs similar to that which + Livingstone relates, the disaster is not beyond remedy.]</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p><i>20th January, 1867.</i>—A guide refused, so we + marched without one. The two Waiyau, who joined us at + Kandé's village, now deserted. They had been very faithful + all the way, and took our part in every case. Knowing the + language well, they were extremely useful, and no one thought + that they would desert, for they were free men—their + masters had been killed by the Mazitu—and this + circumstance, and their uniform good conduct, made us trust them + more than we should have done any others who had been slaves. But + they left us in the forest, and heavy rain came on, which + obliterated every vestige of their footsteps. To make the loss + the more galling, they took what we could least spare—the + medicine-box, which they would only throw away as soon as they + came to examine their booty. One of these deserters exchanged his + load that morning with a boy called Baraka, who had charge of the + medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done, because + with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all + Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The + Waiyau also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, + while he gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in + exchange. The forest was so dense and high, there was no chance + of getting a glimpse of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a + large box of powder, the flour we had purchased dearly to help us + as far as the Chambezé, the tools, two guns, and a + cartridge-pouch; but the medicine-chest was the sorest loss of + all! I felt as if I had now received the sentence of death, like + poor Bishop Mackenzie.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>All the other goods I had + divided in case of loss or desertion, but had never dreamed of + losing the precious quinine and other remedies; other losses and + annoyances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent of vexations + which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and certainly + not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an explorer + anxious to benefit a country and people—but this loss I + feel most keenly. Everything of this kind happens by the + permission of One who watches over us with most tender care; and + this may turn out for the best by taking away a source of + suspicion among more superstitious, charm-dreading people further + north. I meant it as a source of benefit to my party and to the + heathen.</p> + + <p>We returned to Lisunga, and got two men off to go back to + Chafunga's village, and intercept the deserters if they went + there; but it is likely that, having our supply of flour, they + will give our route a wide berth and escape altogether. It is + difficult to say from the heart, "Thy will be done;" but I shall + try. These Waiyau had few advantages: sold into slavery in early + life, they were in the worst possible school for learning to be + honest and honourable, they behaved well for a long time; but, + having had hard and scanty fare in Lobisa, wet and misery in + passing through dripping forests, hungry nights and fatiguing + days, their patience must have been worn out, and they had no + sentiments of honour, or at least none so strong as we ought to + have; they gave way to the temptation which their good conduct + had led us to put in their way. Some we have come across in this + journey seemed born essentially mean and base—a great + misfortune to them and all who have to deal with them, but they + cannot be so blamable as those who have no natural tendency to + meanness, and whose education has taught them to abhor it. True; + yet this loss of the medicine-box gnaws at the heart + terribly.</p> + + <p><i>21st and 22nd January, 1867.</i>—Remained at + Lisunga—raining <a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>nearly + all day; and we bought all the maëre the chief would sell. + We were now forced to go on and made for the next village to buy + food. Want of food and rain are our chief difficulties now, more + rain falls here on this northern slope of the upland than + elsewhere; clouds come up from the north and pour down their + treasures in heavy thunder-showers, which deluge the whole + country south of the edge of the plateau: the rain-clouds come + from the west chiefly.</p> + + <p><i>23rd January, 1867.</i>—A march of five and + three-quarter hours brought us yesterday to a village, Chibanda's + stockade, where "no food" was the case, as usual. We crossed a + good-sized rivulet, the Mapampa (probably ten yards wide), + dashing along to the east; all the rest of the way was in dark + forest. I sent off the boys to the village of Muasi to buy food, + if successful, to-morrow we march for the Chambezé, on the + other side of which all the reports agree in the statement that + there plenty of food is to be had. We all feel weak and easily + tired, and an incessant hunger teases us, so it is no wonder if + so large a space of this paper is occupied by stomach affairs. It + has not been merely want of nice dishes, but real biting hunger + and faintness.</p> + + <p><i>24th January, 1867.</i>—Four hours through unbroken, + dark forest brought us to the Movushi, which here is a sluggish + stream, winding through and filling a marshy valley a mile wide. + It comes from south-east, and falls into the Chambezé, + about 2' north of our encampment. The village of Moaba is on the + east side of the marshy valley of the Movuhi, and very difficult + to be approached, as the water is chin-deep in several spots. I + decided to make sheds on the west side, and send over for food, + which, thanks to the Providence which watches over us, we found + at last in a good supply of maëre and some ground-nuts; but + through, all this upland region the trees yielding bark-cloth, or + <a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a><i>nyanda</i>, are so + abundant, that the people are all well-clothed with it, and care + but little for our cloth. Red and pink beads are in fashion, and + fortunately we have red.</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p>[We may here add a few particulars concerning beads, which + form such an important item of currency all through Africa. With + a few exceptions they are all manufactured in Venice. The + greatest care must be exercised, or the traveller—ignorant + of the prevailing fashion in the country he is about to + explore—finds himself with an accumulation of beads of no + more value than tokens would be if tendered in this country for + coin of the realm.</p> + + <p>Thanks to the kindness of Messrs. Levin & Co., the bead + merchants, of Bevis Marks, E.C., we have been able to get some + idea of the more valuable beads, through a selection made by Susi + and Chuma in their warehouse. The Waiyou prefer exceedingly small + beads, the size of mustard-seed, and of various colours, but they + must be opaque: amongst them dull white chalk varieties, called + "Catchokolo," are valuable, besides black and pink, named, + respectively, "Bububu" and "Sekundereché" = the "dregs of + pombe." One red bead, of various sizes, which has a white centre, + is always valuable in every part of Africa. It is called + "Sami-sami" by the Suahélé, "Chitakaraka" by the + Waiyou, "Mangazi," = "blood," by the Nyassa, and was found + popular even amongst the Manyuema, under the name of + "Maso-kantussi", "bird's eyes." Whilst speaking of this distant + tribe, it is interesting to observe that one peculiar long bead, + recognised as common in the Manyuema land, is only sent to the + West Coast of Africa, and <i>never</i> to the East. On Chuma + pointing to it as a sort found at the extreme limit explored by + Livingstone, it was at once seen that he must have touched that + part of Africa which begins to be within the reach of the traders + in the Portuguese settlements. "Machua Kanga" = "guinea fowl's + eyes," is another popular <a name="Page_181" id= + "Page_181"></a>variety; and the "Moiompio" = "new heart," a large + pale blue bead, is a favourite amongst the Wabisa; but by far the + most valuable of all is a small white oblong bead, which, when + strung, looks like the joints of the cane root, from which it + takes its name, "Salani" = cane. Susi says that 1 lb. weight of + these beads would buy a tusk of ivory, at the south end of + Tanganyika, so big that a strong man could not carry it more than + two hours.]</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p><i>25th January, 1867.</i>—Remain and get our maëre + ground into flour. Moaba has cattle, sheep, and goats. The other + side of the Chambezé has everything in still greater + abundance; so we may recover our lost flesh. There are buffaloes + in this quarter, but we have not got a glimpse of any. If game + was to be had, I should have hunted; but the hopo way of hunting + prevails, and we pass miles of hedges by which many animals must + have perished. In passing-through the forests it is surprising to + see none but old footsteps of the game; but the hopo destruction + accounts for its absence. When the hedges are burned, then the + manured space is planted with pumpkins and calabashes.</p> + + <p>I observed at Chibanda's a few green mushrooms, which, on + being peeled, showed a pink, fleshy inside; they are called + "chisimba;" and only one or two are put into the mortar, in which + the women pound the other kinds, to give relish, it was said, to + the mass: I could not ascertain what properties chisimba had when + taken alone; but mushroom diet, in our experience, is good only + for producing dreams of the roast beef of bygone days. The saliva + runs from the mouth in these dreams, and the pillow is wet with + it in the mornings.</p> + + <p>These Babisa are full of suspicion; everything has to be paid + for accordingly in advance, and we found that giving a present to + a chief is only putting it in his power to cheat us out of a + supper. They give nothing to each other for <a name="Page_182" + id="Page_182"></a>nothing, and if this is enlargement of mind + produced by commerce, commend me to the untrading African!</p> + + <p>Fish now appear in the rivulets. Higher altitudes have only + small things, not worth catching.</p> + + <p>An owl makes the woods resound by night and early morning with + his cries, which consist of a loud, double-initial note, and then + a succession of lower descending notes. Another new bird, or at + least new to me, makes the forests ring.</p> + + <p>When the vultures see us making our sheds, they conclude that + we have killed some animal; but after watching awhile, and seeing + no meat, they depart. This is suggestive of what other things + prove, that it is only by sight they are guided.<a name= + "FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a></p> + + <p>With respect to the native head-dresses the colouring-matter, + "nkola," which seems to be camwood, is placed as an ornament on + the head, and some is put on the bark-cloth to give it a pleasant + appearance. The tree, when cut, is burned to bring out the strong + colour, and then, when it is developed, the wood is powdered.</p> + + <p>The gum-copal trees now pour out gum where wounded, and I have + seen masses of it fallen on the ground.</p> + + <p><i>26th January, 1867.</i>—Went northwards along the + Movushi, near to its confluence with Chambezé, and then + took lodging in a deserted temporary village. In the evening I + shot a poku, or tsébula, full-grown male. It measured from + snout <a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>to insertion of tail, + 5 feet 3 inches; tail, 1 foot; height at withers, 3 feet; + circumference of chest, 5 feet; face to insertion of horns, 9-1/2 + inches; horns measured on curve, 16 inches. Twelve rings on + horns, and one had a ridge behind, 1/2 inch broad, 1/2 inch high, + and tapering up the horn; probably accidental. Colour: + reddish-yellow, dark points in front of foot and on the ears, + belly nearly white. The shell went through from behind the + shoulder to the spleen, and burst on the other side, yet he ran + 100 yards. I felt very thankful to the Giver of all good for this + meat.</p> + + <p><i>27th January, 1867.</i>—A set-in rain all the + morning, but having meat we were comfortable in the old huts. In + changing my dress this morning I was frightened at my own + emaciation.</p> + + <p><i>28th January, 1867.</i>—- We went five miles along + the Movushi and the Chambezé to a crossing-place said to + avoid three rivers on the other side, which require canoes just + now, and have none. Our lat. 10° 34' S. The Chambezé + was flooded with clear water, but the lines of bushy trees, which + showed its real banks, were not more than forty yards apart, it + showed its usual character of abundant animal life in its waters + and on its banks, as it wended its way westwards. The canoe-man + was excessively suspicious; when prepayment was acceded to, he + asked a piece more, and although he was promised full payment as + soon as we were all safely across he kept the last man on the + south side as a hostage for this bit of calico: he then ran away. + They must cheat each other sadly.</p> + + <p>Went northwards, wading across two miles of flooded flats on + to which the <i>Clarias Capensis</i>, a species of siluris, comes + to forage out of the river. We had the Likindazi, a sedgy stream, + with hippopotami, on our right. Slept in forest without seeing + anyone. Then next day we met with a party who had come from their + village to look for us. We were now in Lobemba, but these + villagers had nothing but hopes of plenty at Chitapangwa's. This + village had <a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>half a mile of + ooze and sludgy marsh in front of it, and a stockade as usual. We + observed that the people had great fear of animals at night, and + shut the gates carefully, of even temporary villages. When at + Molemba (Chitapangwa's village) afterwards, two men were killed + by a lion, and great fear of crocodiles was expressed by our + canoe-man at the Chambezé, when one washed in the margin + of that river. There was evidence of abundance of game, + elephants, and buffaloes, but we saw none.</p> + + <p><i>29th January, 1867.</i>—When near our next stage end + we were shown where lightning had struck; it ran down a gum-copal + tree without damaging it, then ten yards horizontally, and + dividing there into two streams it went up an anthill; the + withered grass showed its course very plainly, and next day + (31st), on the banks of the Mabula, we saw a dry tree which had + been struck; large splinters had been riven off and thrown a + distance of sixty yards in one direction and thirty yards in + another: only a stump was left, and patches of withered grass + where it had gone horizontally.</p> + + <p><i>30th January, 1867.</i>—Northwards through almost + trackless dripping forests and across oozing bogs.</p> + + <p><i>31st January, 1867.</i>—Through forest, but gardens + of larger size than in Lobisa now appear. A man offered a thick + bar of copper for sale, a foot by three inches. The hard-leafed + acacia and mohempi abound. The valleys, with the oozes, have a + species of grass, having pink seed-stalks and yellow seeds: this + is very pretty. At midday we came to the Lopiri, the rivulet + which waters Chitapanga's stockade, and soon after found that his + village has a triple stockade, the inner being defended also by a + deep broad ditch and hedge of a solanaceous thorny shrub. It is + about 200 yards broad and 500 long. The huts not planted very + closely.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="fp185" id="fp185"></a> <img src="images/fp185.jpg" + width="500" height="281" alt= + "Chitapangwa receiving Dr. Livingstone." title= + "Chitapangwa receiving Dr. Livingstone." /><br /> + <b>Chitapangwa + receiving Dr. Livingstone.</b> + </div> + + <p>The rivulets were all making for the Chambezé. They + contain no fish, except very small ones—probably fry. On + <a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>the other, or western side + of the ridge, near which "Malemba" is situated, fish abound worth + catching.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p185" id="p185"></a> <img src="images/p185.jpg" width= + "383" height="332" alt="Chitapangwa" title="Chitapangwa" /><br /> + <b>Chitapangwa</b> + </div> + + <p>Chitapangwa, or Motoka, as he is also called, sent to inquire + if we wanted an audience. "We must take something in our hands + the first time we came before so great a man." Being tired from + marching, I replied, "Not till the evening," and sent notice at 5 + P.M. of my coming. We passed through the inner stockade, and then + on to an enormous hut, where sat Chitapangwa, with three drummers + and ten or more men, with two rattles in their hands. The + drummers beat furiously, and the rattlers kept time to the drums, + two of them advancing and receding in a stooping posture, with + rattles near the ground, as if doing the chief obeisance, but + still keeping time with the others. I declined <a name="Page_186" + id="Page_186"></a>to sit on the ground, and an enormous tusk was + brought for me. The chief saluted courteously. He has a fat jolly + face, and legs loaded with brass and copper leglets. I mentioned + our losses by the desertion of the Waiyau, but his power is + merely nominal, and he could do nothing. After talking awhile he + came along with us to a group of cows, and pointed out one. "That + is yours," said he. The tusk on which I sat was sent after me too + as being mine, because I had sat upon it. He put on my cloth as + token of acceptance, and sent two large baskets of sorghum to the + hut afterwards, and then sent for one of the boys to pump him + after dark.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p186" id="p186"></a> <img src="images/p186.jpg" width= + "383" height="343" alt="Chitapangwa's Wives." title= + "Chitapangwa's Wives." /><br /> + <b>Chitapangwa's Wives.</b> + </div> + + <p><i>1st February, 1867.</i>—We found a small party of + black Arab slave-traders here from Bagamoio on the coast, and as + <a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>the chief had behaved + handsomely as I thought, I went this morning and gave him one of + our best cloths; but when we were about to kill the cow, a man + interfered and pointed out a smaller one. I asked if this was by + the orders of the chief. The chief said that the man had lied, + but I declined to take any cow at all if he did not give it + willingly.</p> + + <p>The slavers, the headman of whom was Magaru Mafupi, came and + said that they were going off on the 2nd; (<i>2nd February, + 1867</i>) but by payment I got them to remain a day, and was all + day employed in writing despatches.</p> + + <p><i>3rd February, 1867.</i>—Magaru Mafupi left this + morning with a packet of letters, for which he is to get Rs. 10 + at Zanzibar.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id= + "FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class= + "fnanchor">[48]</a> They came by a much shorter route than we + followed, in fact, nearly due west or south-west; but not a soul + would tell us of this way of coming into the country when we were + at Zanzibar. Bagamoio is only six hours north of Kurdary Harbour. + It is possible that the people of Zanzibar did not know of it + themselves, as this is the first time they have come so far. The + route is full of villages and people who have plenty of goats, + and very cheap. They number fifteen stations, or sultans, as they + call the chiefs, and will be at Bagamoio in two months:—1. + Chasa; 2. Lombé; 3. Ucheré; 4. Nyamiro; 5. Zonda; + 6. Zambi; 7. Lioti; 8. Méreré; 9. Kirangabana; 10. + Nkongozi; 11. Sombogo; 12. Suré; 13. Lomolasenga; 14. + Kapass; 15, Chanzé. They are then in the country adjacent + to Bagamoio. Some of these places are two or three days apart + from each other.</p> + + <p>They came to three large rivers: 1. Wembo; 2. Luaha; 3. Luvo; + but I had not time to make further inquiries. They had one of + Speke's companions to Tanganyika with them, named Janjé, + or Janja, who could imitate a trumpet by blowing into the palm of + his hand. I ordered another <a name="Page_188" id= + "Page_188"></a>supply of cloth and beads, and I sent for a small + quantity of coffee, sugar, candles, French preserved meats, a + cheese in tin, six bottles of port-wine, quinine, calomel, and + resin of jalap, to be sent to Ujiji.</p> + + <p>I proposed to go a little way east with this route to buy + goats, but Chitapangwa got very angry, saying, I came only to + show my things, and would buy nothing: he then altered his tone, + and requested me to take the cow first presented and eat it, and + as we were all much in need I took it. We were to give only what + we liked in addition; but this was a snare, and when I gave two + more cloths he sent them back, and demanded a blanket. The boys + alone have blankets; so I told him these were not slaves, and I + could not take from them what I had once given. Though it is + disagreeable to be thus victimized, it is the first time we have + tasted fat for six weeks and more.</p> + + <p><i>6th February, 1867.</i>—Chitapangwa came with his + wife to see the instruments which I explained to them as well as + I could, and the books, as well as the Book of Books, and to my + statements he made intelligent remarks. The boys are sorely + afraid of him. When Abraham does not like to say what I state, he + says to me "I don't know the proper word;" but when I speak + without him, he soon finds them. He and Simon thought that + talking in a cringing manner was the way to win him over, so I + let them try it with a man he sent to communicate with us, and + the result was this fellow wanted to open their bundles, pulled + them about, and kept them awake most of the night. Abraham came + at night: "Sir, what shall I do? they won't let me sleep." "You + have had your own way," I replied, "and must abide by it." He + brought them over to me in the morning, but I soon dismissed both + him and them.</p> + + <p><i>7th February, 1867.</i>—I sent to the chief either to + come to me or say Avhen I should come to him and talk; the answer + I got was that he would come when shaved, but he afterwards + <a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>sent a man to hear what I + had to advance—this I declined, and when the rain ceased I + went myself.</p> + + <p>On coming into his hut I stated that I had given him four + times the value of his cow, but if he thought otherwise, let us + take the four cloths to his brother Moamba, and if he said that I + had not given enough, I would buy a cow and send it back. This he + did not relish at all. "Oh, great Englishman! why should we refer + a dispute to an inferior. I am the great chief of all this + country. Ingleze mokolu, you are sorry that you have to give so + much for the ox you have eaten. You would not take a smaller, and + therefore I gratified your heart by giving the larger; and why + should not you gratify my heart by giving cloth sufficient to + cover me, and please me?"</p> + + <p>I said that my cloths would cover him, and his biggest wife + too all over, he laughed at this, but still held out; and as we + have meat, and he sent maize and calabashes, I went away. He + turns round now, and puts the blame of greediness on me. I cannot + enter into his ideas, or see his point of view; cannot, in fact, + enter into his ignorance, his prejudices, or delusions, so it is + impossible to pronounce a true judgment. One who has no humour + cannot understand one who has: this is an equivalent case.</p> + + <p>Rain and clouds so constantly, I could not get our latitude + till last night, 10° 14' 6" S. On 8th got lunars. Long. + 31° 46' 45" E. Altitude above sea, 4700 feet, by + boiling-point and barometer.</p> + + <p><i>8th February, 1867.</i>—The chief demands one of my + boxes and a blanket; I explain that one day's rain would spoil + the contents, and the boys who have blankets, not being slaves, I + cannot take from them what I have given. I am told that he + declares that he will take us back to the Loangwa; make war and + involve us in it, deprive us of food, &c.: this succeeds in + terrifying the boys. He thinks that we have some self-interest to + secure in passing <a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>through + the country, and therefore he has a right to a share in the gain. + When told it was for a public benefit, he pulled down the + underlid of the right eye.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id= + "FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class= + "fnanchor">[49]</a> He believes we shall profit by our journey, + though he knows not in what way.</p> + + <p>It is possibly only a coincidence, but no sooner do we meet + with one who accompanied Speke and Burton to Tanganyika, than the + system of mulcting commences. I have no doubt but that + Janjé told this man how his former employers paid down + whatever was demanded of them.</p> + + <p><i>10th February, 1867.</i>—I had service in the open + air, many looking on, and spoke afterwards to the chief, but he + believes nothing save what Speke and Burton's man has told him. + He gave us a present of corn and ground-nuts, and says he did not + order the people not to sell grain to us. We must stop and eat + green maize. He came after evening service, and I explained a + little to him, and showed him woodcuts in the 'Bible Dictionary,' + which he readily understood.</p> + + <p><i>11th February, 1867.</i>—The chief sent us a basket + of hippopotamus flesh from the Chambezé, and a large one + of green maize. He says the three cloths I offered are still + mine: all he wants is a box and blanket; if not a blanket, a box + must be given, a tin one. He keeps out of my way, by going to the + gardens every morning. He is good-natured, and our intercourse is + a laughing one; but the boys betray their terrors in their tone + of voice, and render my words powerless.</p> + + <p>The black and white, and the brownish-grey water wagtails are + remarkably tame. They come about the huts and even into them, and + no one ever disturbs them. They build their nests about the huts. + In the Bechuana country, a fine is imposed on any man whose boys + kill one, but <a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>why, no one + can tell me. The boys with me aver that they are not killed, + because the meat is not eaten! or because they are so tame!!</p> + + <p><i>13th February, 1867.</i>—I gave one of the boxes at + last, Chitapangwa offering a heavy Arab wooden one to preserve + our things, which I declined to take, as I parted with our own + partly to lighten a load. Abraham unwittingly told me that he had + not given me the chiefs statement in full when he pressed me to + take his cow. It was, "Take and eat the one you like, and give me + a blanket." Abraham said "He has no blanket." Then he said to me, + "Take it and eat it, and give him any pretty thing you like." I + was thus led to mistake the chief, and he, believing that he had + said explicitly he wanted a blanket for it, naturally held out. + It is difficult to get these lads to say what one wants uttered: + either with enormous self-conceit, they give different, and, as + they think, better statements, suppress them altogether, or + return false answers: this is the great and crowning difficulty + of my intercourse.</p> + + <p>I got ready to go, but the chief was very angry, and came with + all his force, exclaiming that I wanted to leave against his will + and power, though he wished to adjust matters, and send me away + nicely. He does not believe that we have no blankets. It is hard + to be kept waiting here, but all may be for the best: it has + always turned out so, and I trust in Him on whom I can cast all + my cares. The Lord look on this and help me. Though I have these + nine boys, I feel quite alone.</p> + + <p>I gave the chief some seeds, peas, and beans, for which he + seemed thankful, and returned little presents of food and beer + frequently. The beer of maëre is stuffed full of the growing + grain as it begins to sprout, it is as thick as porridge, very + strong and bitter, and goes to the head, requiring a strong + digestion to overcome it.</p> + + <p><i>February, 1867.</i>—I showed the chief one of the + boys' <a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>blankets, which he is + willing to part with for two of our cloths, each of which is + larger than it, but he declines to receive it, because we have + new ones. I invited him, since he disbelieved my assertions, to + look in our bales, and if he saw none, to pay us a fine for the + insult: he consented in a laughing way to give us an ox. All our + personal intercourse has been of the good-natured sort. It is the + communications to the boys, by three men who are our protectors, + or rather spies, that is disagreeable; I won't let them bring + those fellows near me.</p> + + <p><i>10th February, 1867.</i>—He came early in the + morning, and I showed that I had no blanket, and he took the old + one, and said that the affair was ended. A long misunderstanding + would have been avoided, had Abraham told me fully what the chief + said at first.</p> + + <p><i>16th February, 1867.</i>—The chief offered me a cow + for à piece of red serge, and after a deal of talk and + Chitapangwa swearing that no demand would be made after the + bargain was concluded, I gave the serge, a cloth, and a few beads + for a good fat cow. The serge was two fathoms, a portion of that + which Miss Coutts gave me when leaving England in 1858.</p> + + <p>The chief is not so bad, as the boys are so cowardly. They + assume a chirping, piping tone of voice in speaking to him, and + do not say what at last has to be said, because in their cringing + souls they believe they know what should be said better than I + do. It does not strike them in the least that I have grown grey + amongst these people; and it is immense conceit in mere boys to + equal themselves to me. The difficulty is greater, because when I + do ask their opinions I only receive the reply, "It is as you + please, sir." Very likely some men of character may arise and + lead them; but such as I have would do little to civilise.</p> + + <p><i>17th February, 1867.</i>—Too ill with rheumatic-fever + to have service; this is the first attack of it I ever + had—and no <a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>medicine! + but I trust in the Lord, who healeth His people.</p> + + <p><i>18th February, 1867.</i>—This cow we divided at once. + The last one we cooked, and divided a full, hearty meal to all + every evening.</p> + + <p>The boom—booming of water dashing against or over the + rocks is heard at a good distance from most of the burns in this + upland region; hence it is never quite still.</p> + + <p>The rocks here are argillaceous schist, red and white. + <i>(Keel, Scotticé.)</i></p> + + <p><i>19th February, 1867.</i>—Chitapangwa begged me to + stay another day, that one of the boys might mend his blanket; it + has been worn every night since April, and I, being weak and + giddy, consented. A glorious day of bright sunlight after a + night's rain. We scarcely ever have a twenty-four hours without + rain, and never half that period without thunder.</p> + + <p>The camwood (?) is here called molombwa, and grows very + abundantly. The people take the bark, boil, and grind it fine: it + is then a splendid blood-red, and they use it extensively as an + ornament, sprinkling it on the bark-cloth, or smearing it on the + head. It is in large balls, and is now called mkola. The tree has + pinnated, alternate lanceolate, leaves, and attains a height of + 40 or 50 feet, with a diameter of 15 or 18 inches finely and + closely veined above, more widely beneath.</p> + + <p>I am informed by Abraham that the Nyumbo (Numbo or Mumbo) is + easily propagated by cuttings, or by cuttings of the roots. A + bunch of the stalks is preserved in the soil for planting next + year, and small pieces are cut off, and take root easily; it has + a pea-shaped flower, but we never saw the seed. It is very much + better here than I have seen it elsewhere; and James says that in + his country it is quite <a name="Page_194" id= + "Page_194"></a>white and better still; what I have seen is of a + greenish tinge after it is boiled.</p> + + <p>[Amongst the articles brought to the coast the men took care + not to lose a number of seeds which they found in Dr. + Livingstone's boxes after his death. These have been placed in + the hands of the authorities at Kew, and we may hope that in some + instances they have maintained vitality.</p> + + <p>It is a great pity that there is such a lack of enterprise in + the various European settlements on the East Coast of Africa. + Were it otherwise a large trade in valuable woods and other + products would assuredly spring up. Ebony and lignum vitae + abound; Dr. Livingstone used hardly any other fuel when he + navigated the <i>Pioneer</i>, and no wood was found to make such + "good steam." India-rubber may be had for the collecting, and we + see that even the natives know some of the dye-woods, besides + which the palm-oil tree is found, indigo is a weed everywhere, + and coffee is indigenous.]</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> In + coming to cross roads it is the custom of the leader to + "mark" all side paths and wrong turnings by making a scratch + across them with his spear, or by breaking a branch and + laying it across: in this way those who follow are able to + avoid straying off the proper road.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> + Heleotragus Vardonii.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> The + tamarind does the same thing in the heat of the day.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> A + species of kingfisher, which stands flapping its wings and + attempting to sing in a ridiculous manner. It never was + better described than by one observer who, after watching it + through its performance, said it was "a toy-shoppy + bird."—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Not the + great chief near Lake Moero of the same name.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> This + extraordinary bird flies from tree to tree in front of the + hunter, chirrupping loudly, and will not be content till he + arrives at the spot where the bees'-nest is; it then waits + quietly till the honey is taken, and feeds on the broken + morsels of comb which fall to its share.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> + Eleusine Coracana.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> It may + not be altogether without interest to state that Livingstone + could fall asleep when he wished at the very shortest notice. + A mat, and a shady tree under which to spread it, would at + any time afford him a refreshing sleep, and this faculty no + doubt contributed much to his great powers of + endurance.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> When + the elephant becomes confused by the yelping pack of dogs + with which he is surrounded, the hunter stealthily approaches + behind, and with one blow of a sharp axe hamstrings the huge + beast.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> + Raphia.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> Top of + mountain (barometer) 6338 feat.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> The + experience of all African sportsmen tends towards the same + conclusion. Vultures probably have their beats high overhead + in the sky, too far to be seen by the eye. From this altitude + they can watch a vast tract of country, and whenever the + disturbed movements of game are observed they draw together, + and for the first time are seen wheeling, about at a great + height over the spot. So soon as an animal is killed, every + tree is filled with them, but the hunter has only to cover + the meat with boughs or reeds and the vultures are entirely + at a loss—hidden, from view it is hidden altogether: + the idea that they are attracted by their keen sense of smell + is altogether erroneous,—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> These + letters reached England safely.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> It + seems almost too ridiculous to believe that we have here the + exact equivalent of the schoolboy's demonstrative "Do you see + any green in my eye?" nevertheless it looks wonderfully like + it!—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><a name= + "Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika. + Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill + with fever. Threatening attitude of Chibué's people. + Continued illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. + Extreme beauty of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. + Leaves the Lake. Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between + Arabs and Nsama. Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's + letter to principal Arab Harnees. The war in Itawa. Geography + of the Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the + Koran. Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo to the eastward, and + their chief, Meréré. Harnees sets out against + Nsama. Tedious sojourn. Departure for Ponda. Native + cupping.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>20th February, 1867.</i>—I told the chief before + starting that my heart was sore, because he was not sending me + away so cordially as I liked. He at once ordered men to start + with us, and gave me a brass knife with ivory sheath, which he + had long worn, as a memorial. He explained that we ought to go + north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately be obliged to + turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we reached the + Lake Tanganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground and + rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, + and came along with us to see that all was right; and so we + parted.</p> + + <p>We soon ascended the plateau, which encloses with its edge the + village and stream of Molemba. Wild pigs are abundant, and there + are marks of former cultivation. A short march brought us to an + ooze, surrounded by hedges, game-traps, and pitfalls, where, as + we are stiff and weak, we spend the night. Rocks abound of the + same dolomite <a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>kind as on the + ridge further south, between the Loangwa and Chambezé, + covered, like them, with lichens, orchids, euphorbias, and upland + vegetation, hard-leaved acacias, rhododendrons, masukos. The + gum-copal tree, when perforated by a grub, exudes from branches + no thicker than one's arm, masses of soft, gluey-looking gum, + brownish yellow, and light grey, as much as would fill a + soup-plate. It seems to yield this gum only in the rainy season, + and now all the trees are full of sap and gum.</p> + + <p><i>21st February, 1867.</i>—A night with loud and near + thunder, and much heavy rain, which came through the boys' sheds. + Roads all plashy or running with water, oozes full, and rivulets + overflowing; rocks of dolomite jutting out here and there. I + noticed growing here a spikenard-looking shrub, six feet high, + and a foot in diameter. The path led us west against my will. I + found one going north; but the boys pretended that they did not + see my mark, and went west, evidently afraid of incurring + Moamba's displeasure by passing him. I found them in an old hut, + and made the best of it by saying nothing. They said that they + had wandered; that was, they had never left the west-going + path.</p> + + <p><i>22nd February, 1867.</i>—We came to a perennial + rivulet running north, the Merungu. Here we met Moamba's people, + but declined going to his village, as huts are disagreeable; they + often have vermin, and one is exposed to the gaze of a crowd + through a very small doorway. The people in their curiosity often + make the place dark, and the impudent ones offer characteristic + remarks, then raise a laugh, and run away.</p> + + <p>We encamped on the Meningu's right bank in forest, sending + word to Moamba that we meant to do so. He sent a deputation, + first of all his young men, to bring us; then old men, and lastly + he came himself with about sixty followers. I explained that I + had become sick by living <a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>in + a little hut at Molemba; that I was better in the open air; that + huts contained vermin; and that I did not mean to remain any + while here, but go on our way. He pressed us to come to his + village, and gave us a goat and kid, with a huge calabashful of + beer. I promised to go over and visit him next day; and went + accordingly.</p> + + <p><i>23rd February, 1867.</i>—Moamba's village was a mile + off, and on the left bank of the Merengé, a larger stream + than the Merungu flowing north and having its banks and oozes + covered with fine, tall, straight, evergreen trees. The village + is surrounded with a stockade, and a dry ditch some fifteen or + twenty feet wide, and as many deep. I had a long talk with + Moamba, a big, stout, public-house-looking person, with a slight + outward cast in his left eye, but intelligent and hearty. I + presented him with a cloth; and he gave me as much maëre + meal as a man could carry, with a large basket of ground-nuts. He + wished us to come to the Merengé, if not into his village, + that he might see and talk with me: I also showed him some + pictures in Smith's 'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily + understood, and I spoke to him about the Bible. He asked me "to + come next day and tell him about prayer to God," this was a + natural desire after being told that we prayed.</p> + + <p>He was very anxious to know why we were going to Tanganyika; + for what we came; what we should buy there; and if I had any + relations there. He then showed me some fine large tusks, eight + feet six in length. "What do you wish to buy, if not slaves or + ivory?" I replied, that the only thing I had seen worth buying + was a fine fat chief like him, as a specimen, and a woman feeding + him, as he had, with beer. He was tickled at this; and said that + when we reached our country, I must put fine clothes on him. This + led us to speak of our climate, and the production of wool.</p> + + <p><i>24th February, 1867.</i>—I went over after service, + but late, as <a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a>the rain + threatened to be heavy. A case was in process of hearing, and one + old man spoke an hour on end, the chief listening all the while + with the gravity of a judge. He then delivered his decision in + about five minutes, the successful litigant going off + lullilooing. Each person, before addressing him, turns his back + to him and lies down on the ground, clapping the hands: this is + the common mode of salutation. Another form here in Lobemba is to + rattle the arrows or an arrow on the bow, which all carry. We had + a little talk with the chief; but it was late before the cause + was heard through. He asked us to come and spend one night near + him on the Merenga, and then go on, so we came over in the + morning to the vicinity of his village. A great deal of + copper-wire is here made, the wire-drawers using for one part of + the process a seven-inch cable. They make very fine wire, and it + is used chiefly as leglets and anklets; the chief's wives being + laden with them, and obliged to walk in a stately style from the + weight: the copper comes from Katanga.</p> + + <p><i>26th February, 1867.</i>—The chief wishes to buy a + cloth with two goats, but his men do not bring them up quickly. + Simon, one of the boys, is ill of fever, and this induces me to + remain, though moving from one place to another is the only + remedy we have in our power.</p> + + <p>With the chief's men we did not get on well, but with himself + all was easy. His men demanded prepayment for canoes to cross the + river Loömbé; but in the way that he put it, the + request was not unreasonable, as he gave a man to smooth our way, + and get canoes, or whatever else was needed, all the way to + Chibué's. I gave a cloth when he put it thus, and he + presented a goat, a spear ornamented with copper-wire, abundance + of meal, and beer, and numbo; so we parted good friends, as his + presents were worth the cloth.</p> + + <p>Holding a north-westerly course we met with the Chikosho + <a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>flowing west, and thence + came to the Likombé by a high ridge called Losauswa, which + runs a long way westward. It is probably a watershed between + streams going to the Chambezé and those that go to the + northern rivers.</p> + + <p>We have the Locopa, Loömbé, + Nikéléngé, then Lofubu or Lovu; the last + goes north into Liembe, but accounts are very confused. The + Chambezé rises in the Mambivé country, which is + north-east of Moamba, but near to it.</p> + + <p>The forest through which we passed was dense, but scrubby; + trees unhealthy and no drainage except through oozes. On the keel + which forms a clay soil the rain runs off, and the trees attain a + large size. The roads are not soured by the slow process of the + ooze drainage. At present all the slopes having loamy or sandy + soil are oozes, and full to overflowing; a long time is required + for them to discharge their contents. The country generally may + be called one covered with forest.</p> + + <p><i>6th March, 1867.</i>—We came after a short march to a + village on the Molilanga, flowing east into the + Loömbé, here we meet with bananas for the first time, + called, as in Lunda, nkondé. A few trophies from Mazitu + are hung up: Chitapangwa had twenty-four skulls ornamenting his + stockade. The Babemba are decidedly more warlike than any of the + tribes south of them: their villages are stockaded, and have deep + dry ditches round them, so it is likely that Mochimbé will + be effectually checked, and forced to turn his energies to + something else than to marauding.</p> + + <p>Our man from Moamba here refused to go further, and we were + put on the wrong track by the headman wading through three + marshes, each at least half a mile broad. The people of the first + village we came to shut their gates on us, then came running + after us; but we declined to enter their village: it is a way of + showing their independence. We made our sheds on a height in + spite of their protests. They said that the gates were shut by + the <a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>boys; but when I pointed + out the boy who had done it, he said that he had been ordered to + do it by the chief. If we had gone in now we should have been + looked on as having come under considerable obligations.</p> + + <p><i>8th March, 1867.</i>—We went on to a village on the + Loömbé, where the people showed an opposite + disposition, for not a soul was in it—all were out at their + farms. When the good wife of the place came she gave us all huts, + which saved us from a pelting shower. The boys herding the goats + did not stir as we passed down the sides of the lovely valley. + The Loömbé looks a sluggish stream from a distance. + The herdsman said we were welcome, and he would show the crossing + next day, he also cooked some food for us.</p> + + <p>Guided by our host, we went along the Loömbé + westwards till we reached the bridge (rather a rickety affair), + which, when the water is low may be used as a weir. The + Loömbé main stream is 66 feet wide, 6 feet deep, with + at least 200 feet of flood beyond it. The water was knee deep on + the bridge, but clear; the flooded part beyond was waist deep and + the water flowing fast.</p> + + <p>All the people are now transplanting tobacco from the spaces + under the eaves of the huts into the fields. It seems unable to + bear the greater heat of summer: they plant also a kind of + liranda, proper for the cold weather. We thought that we were + conferring a boon in giving peas, but we found them generally + propagated all over the country already, and in the cold time + too. We went along the Diola River to an old hut and made a fire; + thence across country to another river, called Loendawé, 6 + feet wide, and 9 feet deep.</p> + + <p><i>10th March, 1867.</i>—I have been ill of fever ever + since we left Moamba's; every step I take jars in the chest, and + I am very weak; I can scarcely keep up the march, though formerly + I was always first, and had to hold in my pace not to leave the + people altogether. I have a constant <a name="Page_201" id= + "Page_201"></a>singing in the ears, and can scarcely hear the + loud tick of the chronometers. The appetite is good, but we have + no proper food, chiefly maëre meal or beans, or mapemba or + ground-nuts, rarely a fowl.</p> + + <p>The country is full of hopo-hedges, but the animals are + harassed, and we never see them.</p> + + <p><i>11th March, 1867.</i>.—Detained by a set-in rain. + Marks on masses of dolomite elicited the information that a party + of Londa smiths came once to this smelting ground and erected + their works here. We saw an old iron furnace, and masses of + haematite, which seems to have been the ore universally used.</p> + + <p><i>12th March, 1867.</i>—Rain held us back for some + time, but we soon reached Chibué, a stockaded village. + Like them all, it is situated by a stream, with a dense clump of + trees on the waterside of some species of mangrove. They attain + large size, have soft wood, and succulent leaves; the roots + intertwine in the mud, and one has to watch that he does not step + where no roots exist, otherwise he sinks up to the thigh. In a + village the people feel that we are on their property, and crowd + upon us inconveniently; but outside, where we usually erect our + sheds, no such feeling exists, we are each on a level, and they + don't take liberties.</p> + + <p>The Balungu are marked by three or four little knobs on the + temples, and the lobes of the ears are distended by a piece of + wood, which is ornamented with beads; bands of beads go across + the forehead and hold up the hair.</p> + + <p>Chibué's village is at the source of the + Lokwéna, which goes N. and N.E.; a long range of low hills + is on our N.E., which are the Mambwé, or part of them. The + Chambezé rises in them, but further south. Here the + Lokwéna, round whose source we came on starting this + morning to avoid wet feet, and all others north and west of this, + go to the Lofu or Lobu, and into Liemba Lake. Those from the + hills on our right go east into the Loanzu and so into the + Lake.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a><i>15th March, + 1867.</i>—We now are making for Kasonso, the chief of the + Lake, and a very large country all around it, passing the + Lochenjé, five yards wide, and knee deep, then to the + Chañumba. All flow very rapidly just now and are flooded + with clean water. Everyone carries an axe, as if constantly + warring with the forest. My long-continued fever ill disposes me + to enjoy the beautiful landscape. We are evidently on the ridge, + but people have not a clear conception of where the rivers + run.</p> + + <p><i>19th March, 1867.</i>—A party of young men came out + of the village near which we had encamped to force us to pay + something for not going into their village. "The son of a great + chief ought to be acknowledged," &c. They had their bows and + arrows with them, and all ready for action. I told them we had + remained near them because they said we could not reach Kasonso + that day. Their headman had given us nothing. After talking a + while, and threatening to do a deal to-morrow, they left, and + through an Almighty Providence nothing was attempted. We moved on + N.W. in forest, with long green tree-covered slopes on our right, + and came to a village of Kasonso in a very lovely valley. Great + green valleys were now scooped out, and many, as the Kakanza, run + into the Lovu.</p> + + <p><i>20th March, 1867.</i>—The same features of country + prevailed, indeed it was impossible to count the streams flowing + N.W. We found Kasonso situated at the confluence of two streams; + he shook hands a long while, and seems a frank sort of man. A + shower of rain set the driver ants on the move, and about two + hours after we had turned in we were overwhelmed by them. They + are called Kalandu or Nkalanda.</p> + + <p>To describe this attack is utterly impossible. I wakened + covered with them: my hair was full of them. One by one they cut + into the flesh, and the more they are disturbed, the more vicious + are their bites; they become quite insolent. <a name="Page_203" + id="Page_203"></a>I went outside the hut, but there they swarmed + everywhere; they covered the legs, biting furiously; it is only + when they are tired that they leave off.</p> + + <p>One good trait of the Balungu up here is, they retire when + they see food brought to anyone, neither Babisa nor Makoa had + this sense of delicacy: the Babemba are equally polite.</p> + + <p>We have descended considerably into the broad valley of the + Lake, and it feels warmer than on the heights. Cloth here is more + valuable, inasmuch as bark-cloth is scarce. The skins of goats + and wild animals are used, and the kilt is very diminutive among + the women.</p> + + <p><i>22nd March, 1867.</i>—Cross Loéla, thirty feet + wide and one deep, and meet with tsetse fly, though we have seen + none since we left Chitapangwa's. Kasonso gave us a grand + reception, and we saw men present from Tanganyika; I saw cassava + here, but not in plenty.</p> + + <p><i>28th March, 1867.</i>—Set-in rain and Chuma fell ill. + There are cotton bushes of very large size here of the South + American kind. After sleeping in various villages and crossing + numerous streams, we came to Mombo's village, near the ridge + overlooking the Lake.</p> + + <p><i>31st March, and 1st April, 1867.</i>—I was too ill to + march through. I offered to go on the 1st, but Kasonso's son, who + was with us, objected. We went up a low ridge of hills at its + lowest part, and soon after passing the summit the blue water + loomed through the trees. I was detained, but soon heard the boys + firing their muskets on reaching the edge of the ridge, which + allowed of an undisturbed view. This is the south-eastern end of + Liemba, or, as it is sometimes called, Tanganyika.<a name= + "FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> We had to descend at + least 2000 feet before we got to the level of the Lake. It seems + <a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>about eighteen or twenty + miles broad, and we could see about thirty miles up to the north. + Four considerable rivers flow into the space before us. The + nearly perpendicular ridge of about 2000 feet extends with breaks + all around, and there, embosomed in tree-covered rocks, reposes + the Lake peacefully in the huge cup-shaped cavity.</p> + + <p>I never saw anything so still and peaceful as it lies all the + morning. About noon a gentle breeze springs up, and causes the + waves to assume a bluish tinge. Several rocky islands rise in the + eastern end, which are inhabited by fishermen, who capture + abundance of fine large fish, of which they enumerate about + twenty-four species. In the north it seems to narrow into a + gateway, but the people are miserably deficient in geographical + knowledge, and can tell us nothing about it. They suspect us, and + we cannot get information, or indeed much of anything else. I + feel deeply thankful at having got so far. I am excessively + weak—cannot walk without tottering, and have constant + singing in the head, but the Highest will lead me further.</p> + + <p>Lat. of the spot we touched at first, 2nd April, 1867. Lat. + 8° 46' 54" S., long. 31° 57'; but I only worked out (and + my head is out of order) one set of observations. Height above + level of the sea over 2800 feet, by boiling-point thermometers + and barometer. The people won't let me sound the Lake.</p> + + <p>After being a fortnight at this Lake it still appears one of + surpassing loveliness. Its peacefulness is remarkable, though at + times it is said to be lashed up by storms. It lies in a deep + basin whose sides are nearly perpendicular, but covered well with + trees; the rocks which appear are bright red argillaceous schist; + the trees at present all green: down some of these rocks come + beautiful cascades, and buffaloes, elephants, and antelopes + wander and graze on the more level spots, while lions roar by + night. The level place below is not two miles from the + perpendicular. The village <a name="Page_205" id= + "Page_205"></a>(Pambété), at which we first touched + the Lake, is surrounded by palm-oil trees—not the stunted + ones of Lake Nyassa, but the real West Coast palm-oil + tree,<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> requiring two men to + carry a bunch of the ripe fruit. In the morning and evening huge + crocodiles may be observed quietly making their way to their + feeding grounds; hippopotami snort by night and at early + morning.</p> + + <p>After I had been a few days here I had a fit of insensibility, + which shows the power of fever without medicine. I found myself + floundering outside my hut and unable to get in; I tried to lift + myself from my back by laying hold of two posts at the entrance, + but when I got nearly upright I let them go, and fell back + heavily on my head on a box. The boys had seen the wretched state + I was in, and hung a blanket at the entrance of the hut, that no + stranger might see my helplessness; some hours elapsed before I + could recognize where I was.</p> + + <p>As for these Balungu, as they are called, they have a fear of + us, they do not understand our objects, and they keep aloof. They + promise everything and do nothing; but for my excessive weakness + we should go on, but we wait for a recovery of strength.</p> + + <p>As people they are greatly reduced in numbers by the Mazitu, + who carried off very large numbers of the women, boys, girls, and + children. They train or like to see the young men arrayed as + Mazitu, but it would be more profitable if they kept them to + agriculture. They are all excessively polite. The clapping of + hands on meeting is something excessive, and then the string of + salutations that accompany it would please the most fastidious + Frenchman. It implies real politeness, for in marching with them + they always remove branches out of the path, and indicate stones + or stumps in it carefully to a stranger, yet we cannot prevail + <a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>on them to lend carriers to + examine the Lake or to sell goats, of which, however, they have + very few, and all on one island.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="fp206" id="fp206"></a> <img src="images/fp206.jpg" + width="500" height="266" alt= + "The Village on Lake Liemba—Tanganyika." title= + "The Village on Lake Liemba—Tanganyika." /><br /> + <b>The + Village on Lake Liemba—Tanganyika.</b> + </div> + + <p>The Lake discharges its water north-westward or rather + nor-north-westwards. We observe weeds going in that direction, + and as the Lonzua, the Kowé, the Kapata, the Luazé, + the Kalambwé, flow into it near the east end, and the Lovu + or Lofubu, or Lofu, from the south-west near the end it must find + an exit for so much water. All these rivers rise in or near the + Mambwé country, in lat. 10° S., where, too, the + Chambezé rises. Liemba is said to remain of about the same + size as we go north-west, but this we shall see for + ourselves.</p> + + <p>Elephants come all about us. One was breaking trees close by. + I fired into his ear without effect: I am too weak to hold the + gun steadily.</p> + + <p><i>30th April, 1867.</i>—We begin our return march from + Liemba. Slept at a village on the Lake, and went on next day to + Pambété, where we first touched it. I notice that + here the people pound tobacco-leaves in a mortar after they have + undergone partial fermentation by lying in the sun, then they put + the mass in the sun to dry for use.</p> + + <p>The reason why no palm-oil trees grow further east than + Pambété is said to be the stony soil there, and + this seems a valid one, for it loves rich loamy meadows.</p> + + <p><i>1st May, 1867.</i>—We intended to go north-west to + see whether this Lake narrows or not, for all assert that it + maintains its breadth such as we see it beyond Pemba as far as + they know it; but when about to start the headman and his wife + came and protested so solemnly that by going N.W. we should walk + into the hands of a party of Mazitu there, that we deferred our + departure. It was not with a full persuasion of the truth of the + statement that I consented, but we afterwards saw good evidence + that it was true, and that we were saved from being plundered. + These <a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>marauders have changed + their tactics, for they demand so many people, and so many + cloths, and then leave. They made it known that their next scene + of mulcting would be Mombo's village, and there they took twelve + people—four slaves, and many cloths, then went south to the + hills they inhabit. A strict watch was kept on their movements by + our headman and his men. They trust to fleeing into a thicket on + the west of the village should the Mazitu come.</p> + + <p>I have been informed on good authority that Kasonso was on his + way to us when news arrived that his young son had died. He had + sent on beer and provisions for us, but the Mazitu intervening + they were consumed.</p> + + <p>The Mazitu having left we departed and slept half-way up the + ridge. I had another fit of insensibility last night: the muscles + of the back lose all power,<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id= + "FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class= + "fnanchor">[52]</a> and there is constant singing in the ears, + and inability to do the simplest sum. Cross the Aeezé + (which makes the waterfall) fifteen yards wide and knee deep. The + streams like this are almost innumerable.</p> + + <p>Mombo's village. It is distressingly difficult to elicit + accurate information about the Lake and rivers, because the + people do not think accurately. Mombo declared that two Arabs + came when we were below, and inquired for us, but he denied our + presence, thinking thereby to save us trouble and harm.</p> + + <p>The cotton cultivated is of the Pernambuco species, and the + bushes are seven or eight feet high. Much cloth was made in these + parts before the Mazitu raids began, it was striped black and + white, and many shawls are seen in the country yet. It is curious + that this species of cotton should be found only in the middle of + this country.</p> + + <p>In going westwards on the upland the country is level <a name= + "Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>and covered with scraggy forest as + usual, long lines of low hills or rather ridges of denudation + run. N. and S. on our east. This is called Moami country, full of + elephants, but few are killed. They do much damage, eating the + sorghum in the gardens unmolested.</p> + + <p><i>11th May, 1867.</i>—A short march to-day brought us + to a village on the same Moami, and to avoid a Sunday in the + forest we remained. The elephants had come into the village and + gone all about it, and to prevent their opening the corn safes + the people had bedaubed them with elephant's droppings. When a + cow would not give milk, save to its calf, a like device was used + at Kolobeng; the cow's droppings were smeared on the teats, and + the calf was too much disgusted to suck: the cow then ran till + she was distressed by the milk fever and was willing to be + relieved by the herdsman.</p> + + <p><i>12th and 13th May, 1867.</i>—News that the Arabs had + been fighting with Nsama came, but this made us rather anxious to + get northward along Liemba, and we made for Mokambola's village + near the edge of the precipice which overhangs the Lake. Many + Shuaré Raphia palms grow in the river which flows past + it.</p> + + <p>As we began our descent we saw the Lofu coming from the west + and entering Liemba. A projection of Liemba comes to meet it, and + then it is said to go away to the north or north-west as far as + my informants knew. Some pointed due north, others north-west, so + probably its true course amounts to N.N.W. We came to a village + about 2' W. of the confluence, whose headman was affable and + generous. The village has a meadow some four miles wide on the + land side, in which buffaloes disport themselves, but they are + very wild, and hide in the gigantic grasses. Sorghum, + ground-nuts, and voandzeia grow luxuriantly. The Lofu is a + quarter of a mile wide, but higher up three hundred yards. The + valley was always clouded over at <a name="Page_209" id= + "Page_209"></a>night so I could not get an observation except + early in the morning when the cold had dissipated the clouds.</p> + + <p>We remained here because two were lame, and all tired by the + descent of upwards of 2000 feet, and the headman sent for fish + for us. He dissuaded us strongly from attempting to go down the + Liemba, as the son of Nsania (Kapoma) was killing all who came + that way in revenge for what the Arabs had done to his father's + people, and he might take us for Arabs. A Suaheli Arab came in + the evening and partly confirmed the statements of the headman of + Karambo; I resolved therefore to go back to Chitimba's in the + south, where the chief portion of the Arabs are assembled, and + hear from them more certainly.</p> + + <p>The last we heard of Liemba was that at a great way + north-west, it is dammed up by rocks, and where it surmounts + these there is a great waterfall. It does not, it is said, + diminish in size so far, but by bearings protracted it is two + miles wide.</p> + + <p><i>18th May, 1867.</i>—Return to Mokambola's village, + and leave for Chitimba's. Baraka stopped behind at the village, + and James ran away to him, leaving his bundle, containing three + chronometers, in the path: I sent back for them, and James came + up in the evening; he had no complaint, and no excuse to make. + The two think it will be easy to return to their own country by + begging, though they could not point it out to me when we were + much nearer to where it is supposed to be.</p> + + <p><i>19th May, 1867.</i>—Where we were brought to a + standstill was miserably cold (55°), so we had prayers and + went on S. and S.W. to the village of Chisáka.</p> + + <p><i>20th May, 1867.</i>—Chitimba's village was near in + the same direction; here we found a large party of Arabs, mostly + black Suahelis. They occupied an important portion of the + stockaded village, and when I came in, politely showed me to a + shed where they are in the habit of meeting. After <a name= + "Page_210" id="Page_210"></a>explaining whence I had come, I + showed them the Sultan's letter. Harnees presented a goat, two + fowls, and a quantity of flour. It was difficult to get to the + bottom of the Nsama affair, but according to their version that + chief sent an invitation to them, and when they arrived called + for his people, who came in crowds—as he said to view the + strangers. I suspect that the Arabs became afraid of the crowds + and began to fire; several were killed on both sides, and Nsama + fled, leaving his visitors in possession of the stockaded village + and all it contained. Others say that there was a dispute about + an elephant, and that Nsama's people were the aggressors. At any + rate it is now all confusion; those who remain at Nsama's village + help themselves to food in the surrounding villages and burn + them, while Chitimba has sent for the party who are quartered + here to come to him. An hour or two after we arrived a body of + men came from Kasonso, with the intention of proceeding into the + country of Nsama, and if possible catching Nsama, "he having + broken public law by attacking people who brought merchandise + into the country." This new expedition makes the Arabs resolve to + go and do what they can to injure their enemy. It will just be a + plundering foray—each catching what he can, whether animal + or human, and retiring when it is no longer safe to plunder!</p> + + <p>This throws the barrier of a broad country between me and Lake + "Moero" in the west, but I trust in Providence a way will be + opened. I think now of going southwards and then westwards, thus + making a long détour round the disturbed district.</p> + + <p>The name of the principal Arab is Hamees Wodim Tagh, the other + is Syde bin Alie bin Mansure: they are connected with one of the + most influential native mercantile houses in Zanzibar. Hamees has + been particularly kind to me in presenting food, beads, cloth, + and getting information. <a name="Page_211" id= + "Page_211"></a>Thami bin Snaelim is the Arab to whom my goods are + directed at Ujiji.</p> + + <p><i>24th May, 1867.</i>—At Chitimba's we are waiting to + see what events turn up to throw light on our western route. Some + of the Arabs and Kasonso's men went off to-day: they will bring + information perhaps as to Nsama's haunts, and then we shall move + south and thence west. Wrote to Sir Thomas Maclear, giving the + position of Liemba and to Dr. Seward, in case other letters + miscarry. The hot season is beginning now. This corresponds to + July further south.</p> + + <p>Three goats were killed by a leopard close to the village in + open day.</p> + + <p><i>28th May, 1867.</i>—Information came that Nsama + begged pardon of the. Arabs, and would pay all that they had + lost. He did not know of his people stealing from them: we shall + hear in a day or two whether the matter is to be patched up or + not. While some believe his statements, others say, "Nsama's + words of peace are simply to gain time to make another stockade:" + in the mean time Kasonso's people will ravage all his country on + this eastern side.</p> + + <p>Hamees is very anxious that I should remain a few days longer, + till Kasonso's son, Kampamba, comes with <i>certain</i> + information, and then he will see to our passing safely to + Chiwéré's village from Kasonso's. All have + confidence in this last-named chief as an upright man.</p> + + <p><i>1st June, 1867.</i>—Another party of marauders went + off this morning to plunder Nsama's country to the west of the + confluence of the Lofu as a punishment for a breach of public + law. The men employed are not very willing to go, but when they + taste the pleasure of plunder they will relish it more!</p> + + <p>The watershed begins to have a northern slope about Moamba's, + lat. 10° 10' S., but the streams are very tortuous, and the + people have very confused ideas as to where they <a name= + "Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>run. The Lokhopa, for instance, was + asserted by all the men at Moamba's to flow into Lokholu, and + then into a river going to Liemba, but a young wife of Moamba, + who seemed very intelligent, maintained that Lokhopa and Lokholu + went to the Chambezé; I therefore put it down thus. The + streams which feed the Chambezé and the Liemba overlap + each other, and it would require a more extensive survey than I + can give to disentangle them.</p> + + <p>North of Moamba, on the Merengé, the slope begins to + Liemba. The Lofu rises in Chibué's country, and with its + tributaries we have long ridges of denudation, each some 500 or + 600 feet high, and covered with green trees. The valleys of + denudation enclosed by these hill ranges guide the streams + towards Liemba or the four rivers which flow into it. The country + gradually becomes lower, warmer, and tsetse and mosquitoes + appear; so at last we come to the remarkable cup-shaped cavity in + which Liemba reposes. Several streams fall down the nearly + perpendicular cliffs, and form beautiful cascades. The lines of + denudation are continued, one range rising behind another as far + as the eye can reach to the north and east of Liemba, and + probably the slope continues away down to Tanganyika. The + watershed extends westwards to beyond Casembe, and the Luapula, + or Chambezé, rises in the same parallels of latitude as + does the Lofu and the Lonzna.</p> + + <p>The Arabs inform me that between this and the sea, about 200 + miles distant, lies the country of the Wasango—called: + Usango—a fair people, like Portuguese, and very friendly to + strangers. The Wasango possess plenty of cattle: their chief is + called Meréré.<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id= + "FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class= + "fnanchor">[53]</a> They count this twenty-five days, while the + distance thence to the sea at Bagamoio is one month and + twenty-five days—say 440 miles. Uchéré is + very far off northwards, but a man told <a name="Page_213" id= + "Page_213"></a>me that he went to a salt-manufactory in that + direction in eight days from Kasonso's. Meréré goes + frequently on marauding expeditions for cattle, and is instigated + thereto by his mother.</p> + + <p>What we understand by primeval forest is but seldom seen in + the interior here, though the country cannot be described + otherwise than as generally covered with interminable forests. + Insects kill or dwarf some trees, and men maim others for the + sake of the bark-cloth; elephants break down a great number, and + it is only here and there that gigantic specimens are seen: they + may be expected in shut-in valleys among mountains, but on the + whole the trees are scraggy, and the varieties not great. The + different sorts of birds which sing among the branches seem to me + to exceed those of the Zambesi region, but I do not shoot them: + the number of new notes I hear astonishes me.</p> + + <p>The country in which we now are is called by the Arabs and + natives Ulungu, that farther north-west is named Marunga. Hamees + is on friendly terms with the Mazitu (Watuta) in the east, who do + not plunder. The chief sent a man to Kasonso lately, and he + having received a present went away highly pleased.</p> + + <p>Hamees is certainly very anxious to secure my safety. Some men + came from the N.E. to inquire about the disturbance here and they + recommend that I should go with them, and then up the east side + of the Lake to Ujiji; but that would ruin my plan of discovering + Moero and afterwards following the watershed, so as to be certain + that this is either the watershed of the Congo or Kile. He was + not well pleased when I preferred to go south and then westwards, + as it looks like rejecting his counsel; but he said if I waited + till his people came, then we should be able to speak with more + certainty.</p> + + <p>On inquiring if any large mountains exist in this country, I + was told that Moufipa, or Fipa, opposite the lower end of + <a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>the Lake, is + largest—one can see Tanganyika from it. It probably gives + rise to the Nkalambwé River and the Luazé.</p> + + <p>There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are busy + in preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst the women + are cleaning or grinding their corn, which involves much hard + labour. They first dry this in the sun, then put it into a + mortar, and afterwards with a flat basket clean off the husks and + the dust, and grind it between two stones, the next thing is to + bring wood and water to cook it. The chief here was aroused the + other day, and threatened to burn his own house and all his + property because the people stole from it, but he did not proceed + so far: it was probably a way of letting the Arab dependants know + that he was aroused.</p> + + <p>Some of the people who went to fight attacked a large village, + and killed several men; but in shooting in a bushy place they + killed one of their own party and wounded another.</p> + + <p>On inquiring of an Arab who had sailed on Tanganyika which way + the water flowed, he replied to the south!</p> + + <p>The wagtails build in the thatch of the huts; they are busy, + and men and other animals are active in the same way.</p> + + <p>I am rather perplexed how to proceed. Some Arabs seem + determined to go westwards as soon as they can make it up with + Nsama, whilst others distrust him. One man will send his people + to pick up what ivory they can, but he himself will retire to the + Usango country. Nsama is expected to-day or to-morrow. It would + be such a saving of time and fatigue for us to go due west rather + than south, and then west, but I feel great hesitation as to + setting out on the circuitous route. Several Arabs came from the + Liemba side yesterday; one had sailed on Tanganyika, and + described the winds there as very baffling, but no one of them + has a clear idea of the Lake. They described the lower part as a + "sea," and thought it different from Tanganyika.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>Close observation of the + natives of Ulungu makes me believe them to be extremely polite. + The mode of salutation among relatives is to place the hands + round each other's chests kneeling, they then clap their hands + close to the ground. Some more abject individuals kiss the soil + before a chief; the generality kneel only, with the fore-arms + close to the ground, and the head bowed down to them, saying, "O + Ajadla chiusa, Mari a bwino." The Usanga say, "Ajé senga." + The clapping of hands to superiors, and even equals, is in some + villages a perpetually recurring sound. Aged persons are usually + saluted: how this extreme deference to each other could have + arisen, I cannot conceive; it does not seem to be fear of each + other that elicits it. Even the chiefs inspire no fear, and those + cruel old platitudes about governing savages by fear seem + unknown, yet governed they certainly are, and upon the whole very + well. The people were not very willing to go to punish Nsama's + breach of public law, yet, on the decision of the chiefs, they + went, and came back, one with a wooden stool, another with a mat, + a third with a calabash of ground-nuts or some dried meat, a hoe, + or a bow—poor, poor pay for a fortnight's hard work hunting + fugitives and burning villages.</p> + + <p><i>16th June, 1867.</i>—News came to-day that an Arab + party in the south-west, in Lunda, lost about forty people by the + small-pox ("ndué"), and that the people there, having + heard of the disturbance with Nsama, fled from the Arabs, and + would sell neither ivory nor food: this looks like another + obstacle to our progress thither.</p> + + <p><i>17th-19th June, 1867.</i>—Hamees went to meet the + party from the south-west, probably to avoid bringing the + small-pox here. They remain at about two hours' distance. Hamees + reports that though the strangers had lost a great many people by + small-pox, they had brought good news of certain Arabs still + further west: one, Seide ben Umale, or Salem, lived at a village + near Casembe, ten days distant, and <a name="Page_216" id= + "Page_216"></a>another, Juma Merikano, or Katata Katanga, at + another village further north, and Seide ben Habib was at Phueto, + which is nearer Tanganyika. This party comprises the whole force + of Hamees, and he now declares that he will go to Nsama and make + the matter up, as he thinks that he is afraid to come here, and + so he will make the first approach to friendship.</p> + + <p>On pondering over the whole subject, I see that, tiresome as + it is to wait, it is better to do so than go south and then west, + for if I should go I shall miss seeing Moero, which is said to be + three days from Nsama's present abode. His people go there for + salt, and I could not come to it from the south without being + known to them, and perhaps considered to be an Arab. Hamees + remarked that it was the Arab way first to smooth the path before + entering upon it; sending men and presents first, thereby + ascertaining the disposition of the inhabitants. He advises + patience, and is in hopes of making a peace with Nsama. That his + hopes are not unreasonable, he mentioned that when the + disturbance began, Nsama sent men with two tusks to the village + whence he had just been expelled, offering thereby to make the + matter up, but the Arabs, suspecting treachery, fired upon the + carriers and killed them, then ten goats and one tusk were sent + with the same object, and met with a repulse; Hamees thinks that + had he been there himself the whole matter would have been + settled amicably.</p> + + <p>All complain of cold here. The situation is elevated, and we + are behind a clump of trees on the rivulet Chiloa, which keeps + the sun off us in the mornings. This cold induces the people to + make big fires in their huts, and frequently their dwellings are + burned. Minimum temperature is as low as 46°; sometimes + 33°.</p> + + <p><i>24th June, 1867.</i>—The Arabs are all busy reading + their Koran, or Kurán, and in praying for direction; + to-morrow they will call a meeting to deliberate as to what steps + they <a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>will take in the Nsama + affair. Hamees, it seems, is highly thought of by that chief, who + says, "Let him come, and all will be right." Hamees proposes to + go with but a few people. These Zanzibar men are very different + from the slavers of the Waiyau country.</p> + + <p><i>25th June, 1867.</i>—The people, though called, did + not assemble, but they will come to-morrow.</p> + + <p>Young wagtails nearly full-fledged took wing, leaving one in + the nest; from not being molested by the people they took no + precautions, and ran out of the nest on the approach of the old + ones, making a loud chirping. The old ones tried to induce the + last one to come out too, by flying to the nest, and then making + a sally forth, turning round immediately to see if he followed: + he took a few days longer.</p> + + <p>It was decided at the meeting that Hamees, with a few people + only, should go to Nsama on the first day after the appearance of + the new moon (they are very particular on this point); the + present month having been an unhappy one they will try the + next.</p> + + <p><i>28th June, 1867.</i>—A wedding took place among the + Arabs to-day. About a hundred blank cartridges were fired off, + and a procession of males, dressed in their best, marched through + the village. They sang with all their might, though with but + little music in the strain. Women sprinkled grain on their heads + as wishes for plenty.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id= + "FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class= + "fnanchor">[54]</a></p> + + <p>Nsama is said to be waiting for the Arabs in his new stockade. + It is impossible to ascertain exactly who is to blame in this + matter, for I hear one side only; but the fact of the chiefs in + this part of the country turning out so readily to punish his + breach of public law, and no remonstrance coming from him, makes + me suspect that Nsama <a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>is the + guilty party. If he had been innocent he certainly would have + sent to ask the Bulungu, or Bäulungu, why they had attacked + his people without cause.</p> + + <p>[Here is an entry concerning the tribe living far to the + East.]</p> + + <p>The Wasongo seem much like Zulus; they go naked, and have + prodigious numbers of cattle, which occupy the same huts with + their owners. Oxen two shukahs each; plenty of milk. + Meréré is very liberal with his cattle, and gives + every one an ox: there is no rice, but maize and maëre. + Hamees left the people to cultivate rice. Meréré + had plenty of ivory when the Arabs came first, but now has + none.</p> + + <p><i>1st July, 1867.</i>—New moon to-day. They are very + particular as to the time of offering up prayers, and in making + charms. One to-night was at 10 P.M. exactly.</p> + + <p>A number of cabalistic figures were drawn by Halfani, and it + is believed that by these Nsama's whereabouts may be ascertained; + they are probably remains of the secret arts which prevailed + among Arabs before Mahomet appeared. These Suaheli Arabs appear + to have come down the coast before that Prophet was born.</p> + + <p><i>3rd July, 1867.</i>—Kasonso's people are expected. + All the captives that were taken are to be returned, and a + quantity of cloth given to Nsama in addition: so far all seems + right. The new moon will appear to-night. The Arabs count from + one appearance to the next, not, as we do, from its conjunction + with the sun to the next.</p> + + <p><i>4th July, 1867.</i>—Katawanya came from near Liemba + to join the peacemakers. He and his party arrived at Liemba after + we did; he sent his people all round to seek ivory; they don't + care for anything but ivory, and cannot understand why I don't do + the same.</p> + + <p><i>6th July, 1867.</i>—An earthquake happened at 3.30 + P.M., accompanied with a hollow rumbling sound; it made me feel + <a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>as if afloat, but it lasted + only a few seconds. The boys came running to ask me what it was. + Nowhere could it be safer; the huts will not fall, and there are + no high rocks near. Barometer 25.0. Temperature 68° 5'. Heavy + cumuli hanging about; no rain afterwards.</p> + + <p><i>7th July, 1867.</i>—Hamees started this morning with + about 300 followers dressed in all their finery, and he declares + that his sole object is peace. Kasonso, Mombo, Chitimba send + their people, and go themselves to lend all their influence in + favour of peace. Syde stops here. Before starting Syde put some + incense on hot coals, and all the leaders of the party joined in + a short prayer; they seem earnest and sincere in their + incantations, according to their knowledge and belief. I wished + to go too, but Hamees objected, as not being quite sure whether + Nsama would be friendly, and he would not like anything to befall + me when with him.</p> + + <p><i>8th July, 1867.</i>—Kasonso found an excuse for not + going himself. Two men, Arabs it was said, came to + Chibué's and were there killed, and Kasonso must go to see + about it. The people who go carry food with them, evidently not + intending to live by plunder this time.</p> + + <p>While the peacemakers are gone I am employing time in reading + Smith's 'Bible Dictionary,' and calculating different positions + which have stood over in travelling. I don't succeed well in the + Bäulungu dialect.</p> + + <p>The owners of huts lent to strangers have a great deal of toil + in consequence; they have to clean them after the visitors have + withdrawn; then, in addition to this, to clean themselves, all + soiled by the dust left by the lodgers; their bodies and clothes + have to be cleansed afterwards—they add food too in all + cases of acquaintanceship, and then we have to remember the + labour of preparing that food. My remaining here enables me to + observe that both men and women are in almost constant + employment. The men are <a name="Page_220" id= + "Page_220"></a>making mats, or weaving, or spinning; no one could + witness their assiduity in their little affairs and conclude that + they were a lazy people. The only idle time I observe here is in + the mornings about seven o'clock, when all come and sit to catch + the first rays of the sun as he comes over our clump of trees, + but even that time is often taken as an opportunity for stringing + beads.</p> + + <p>I hear that some of Nsama's people crossed the Lovu at Karambo + to plunder, in retaliation for what they have suffered, and the + people there were afraid to fish, lest they should be caught by + them at a distance from their stockades.</p> + + <p>The Bäulungu men are in general tall and well formed, + they use bows over six feet in length, and but little bent. The + facial angle is as good in most cases as in Europeans, and they + have certainly as little of the "lark-heel" as whites. One or two + of the under front teeth are generally knocked out in women, and + also in men.</p> + + <p><i>14th July, 1867.</i>—Syde added to his other presents + some more beads: all have been very kind, which I attribute in a + great measure to Seyed Majid's letter. Hamees crossed the Lovu + to-day at a fordable spot. The people on the other side refused + to go with a message to Nsama, so Hamees had to go and compel + them by destroying their stockade. A second village acted in the + same way, though told that it was only peace that was sought of + Nsama: this stockade suffered the same fate, and then the people + went to Nsama, and he showed no reluctance to have intercourse. + He gave abundance of food, pombe, and bananas; the country being + extremely fertile. Nsama also came and ratified the peace by + drinking blood with several of the underlings of Hamees. He is + said to be an enormously bloated old man, who cannot move unless + carried, and women are constantly in attendance pouring pombe + into him. He gave Hamees ten tusks, and promised him twenty more, + and also to endeavour to make his people return what goods they + plundered from the <a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a>Arabs, + and he is to send his people over here to call us after the new + moon appears.</p> + + <p>It is tiresome beyond measure to wait so long, but I hope to + see Moero for this exercise of patience, and I could not have + visited it had Hamees not succeeded in making peace.</p> + + <p><i>17th July, 1867.</i>—A lion roared very angrily at + the village last night, he was probably following the buffaloes + that sometimes come here to drink at night: they are all very + shy, and so is all the game, from fear of arrows.</p> + + <p>A curious disease has attacked my left eyelid and surrounding + parts: a slight degree of itchiness is followed by great swelling + of the part. It must be a sort of lichen; exposure to the sun + seems to cure it, and this leads me to take long walks therein. + This is about 30° 19' E. long.; lat. 8° 57' 55" S.</p> + + <p><i>24th July, 1867.</i>—A fire broke out at 4 A.M., and + there being no wind the straw roofs were cleared off in front of + it on our side of the village. The granaries were easily + unroofed, as the roof is not attached to the walls, and the Arabs + tried to clear a space on their side, but were unable, and then + moved all their ivory and goods outside the stockade; their side + of the village was all consumed, and three goats perished in the + flames.</p> + + <p>Chitimba has left us from a fear of his life, he says; it is + probable that he means this flight to be used as an excuse to + Nsama after we are gone. "And I, too, was obliged to flee from my + village to save my life! What could I do?" This is to be his + argument, I suspect.</p> + + <p>A good many slaves came from the two villages that were + destroyed: on inquiry I was told that these would be returned + when Nsama gave the ivory promised.</p> + + <p>When Nsama was told that an Englishman wished to go past him + to Moero, he replied, "Bring him, and I shall send men to take + him thither."</p> + + <p><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>Hamees is building a + "tembé," or house, with a flat roof, and walls plastered + over with mud, to keep his ivory from fire while he is absent. We + expect that Nsama will send for us a few days after the 2nd + August, when the new moon appears; if they do not come soon + Hamees will send men to Nsama without waiting for his + messengers.</p> + + <p><i>28th July, 1867.</i>—Prayers, with the + Litany.<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> Slavery is a great + evil wherever I have seen it. A poor old woman and child are + among the captives, the boy about three years old seems a + mother's pet. His feet are sore from walking in the sun. He was + offered for two fathoms, and his mother for one fathom; he + understood it all, and cried bitterly, clinging to his mother. + She had, of course, no power to help him; they were separated at + Karungu afterwards.</p> + + <p>[The above is an episode of every-day occurrence in the wake + of the slave-dealer. "Two fathoms," mentioned as the price of the + boy's life—the more valuable of the two, means four yards + of unbleached calico, which is a universal article of barter + throughout the greater part of Africa: the mother was bought for + two yards. The reader must not think that there are no lower + prices; in the famines which succeed the slave-dealer's raids, + boys and girls are at times to be purchased by the dealer for a + few handfuls of maize.]</p> + + <p><i>29th July, 1867.</i>—Went 2 1/2 hours west to village + of Ponda, where a head Arab, called by the natives Tipo Tipo, + lives; his name is Hamid bin Mahamed bin Juma Borajib. He + presented a goat, a piece of white calico, and four big bunches + of beads, also a bag of Holcus sorghum, and apologised because it + was so little. He had lost much by Nsama; and <a name="Page_223" + id="Page_223"></a>received two arrow wounds there; they had only + twenty guns at the time, but some were in the stockade, and + though the people of Nsama were very numerous they beat them off, + and they fled carrying the bloated carcase of Nsama with them. + Some reported that boxes were found in the village, which + belonged to parties who had perished before, but Syde assured me + that this was a mistake.</p> + + <p>Moero is three days distant, and as Nsama's people go thither + to collect salt on its banks, it would have been impossible for + me to visit it from the south without being seen, and probably + suffering loss.</p> + + <p>The people seem to have no family names. A man takes the name + of his mother, or should his father die he may assume that. + Marriage is forbidden to the first, second, and third degrees: + they call first and second cousins brothers and sisters.</p> + + <p>A woman, after cupping her child's temples for sore eyes, + threw the blood over the roof of her hut as a charm.</p> + + <p>[In the above process a goat's horn is used with a small hole + in the pointed end. The base is applied to the part from which + the blood is to be withdrawn, and the operator, with a small + piece of chewed india-rubber in his mouth, exhausts the air, and + at the proper moment plasters the small hole up with his tongue. + When the cupping-horn is removed, some cuts are made with a small + knife, and it is again applied. As a rough appliance, it is a + very good one, and in great repute everywhere.]</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> It + subsequently proved to be the southern extremity of this + great Lake.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Elais, + sp.(?).</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> This is + a common symptom—men will suddenly lose all power in + the lower extremities, and remain helpless where they + fall.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> The men + heard in 1873 that he had been killed.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> This + comes near to the custom of throwing rice after the bride and + bridegroom in England.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> In his + Journal the Doctor writes "S," and occasionally "Service," + whenever a Sunday entry occurs. We may add that at all times + during his travels the Services of the Church of England were + resorted to by him.—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><a name="Page_224" + id="Page_224"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. + Curious spider. Reach the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. + Hamees marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride. + Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero. + Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders + on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake. + Information concerning the Chambezé and Luapula. Hears + of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe + apprised of Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib. + Lakelet Mofwé. Arrives at Casembe's town.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>1st August, 1867.</i>—Hamees sends off men to trade + at Chiweré's. <i>Zikwé</i> is the name for locust + here. Nsigé or Zigé and Pansi the Suaheli + names.</p> + + <p>A perforated stone had been placed on one of the poles which + form the gateway into this stockade, it is oblong, seven or eight + inches long by four broad, and bevelled off on one side and the + diameter of the hole in the middle is about an inch and a half: + it shows evidence of the boring process in rings. It is of hard + porphyry and of a pinkish hue, and resembles somewhat a weight + for a digging stick I saw in 1841 in the hands of a Bushwoman: I + saw one at a gateway near Kasonso's. The people know nothing of + its use except as a charm to keep away evil from the village.</p> + + <p><i>2nd August, 1867.</i>—Chronometer A. stopped to-day + without any apparent cause except the earthquake.</p> + + <p>It is probably malaria which causes that constant singing in + the ears ever since my illness at Lake Liemba.</p> + + <p><i>3rd August, 1867.</i>—We expect a message from Nsama + every <a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>day, the new moon + having appeared on the first of this month, and he was to send + after its appearance.</p> + + <p><i>5th August, 1867.</i>—Men came yesterday with the + message that Hamees must wait a little longer, as Nsama had not + yet got all the ivory and the goods which were stolen: they + remained over yesterday. The headman, Katala, says that Lunda is + eight days from Nsama or Moero, and in going we cross a large + river called Movue, which flows into Luapula; another river + called Mokobwa comes from the south-east into Moero. Itawa is the + name of Nsama's country and people.</p> + + <p>A day distant from Nsama's place there is a hot fountain + called "Paka pezhia," and around it the earth shakes at times: it + is possible that the earthquake we felt here may be connected + with this same centre of motion.</p> + + <p><i>6th August, 1867.</i>—The weather is becoming milder. + An increase of cold was caused by the wind coming from the south. + We have good accounts of the Wasongo from all the Arabs, their + houses built for cattle are flat-roofed and enormously large; + one, they say, is a quarter of a mile long. Meréré + the chief has his dwelling-house within it: milk, butter, cheese, + are in enormous quantities; the tribe, too, is very large. I fear + that they may be spoiled by the Arab underlings.</p> + + <p><i>7th August, 1867.</i>—Some of my people went down to + Karambo and were detained by the chief, who said "I won't let you + English go away and leave me in trouble with these Arabs."</p> + + <p>A slave had been given in charge to a man here and escaped, + the Arabs hereupon went to Karambo and demanded payment from the + chief there; he offered clothing, but they refused it, and would + have a man; he then offered a man, but this man having two + children they demanded all three. They bully as much as they + please by their fire-arms. After being spoken to by my people the + Arabs came away. The chief begged that I would come <a name= + "Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>and visit him once more, for only + one day, but it is impossible, for we expect to move directly. I + sent the information to Hamees, who replied that they had got a + clue to the man who was wiling away their slaves from them. My + people saw others of the low squad which always accompanies the + better-informed Arabs bullying the people of another village, and + taking fowls and food without payment. Slavery makes a bad + neighbourhood!</p> + + <p>Hamees is on friendly terms with a tribe of Mazitu who say + that they have given up killing people. They lifted a great many + cattle, but have very few now; some of them came with him to show + the way to Kasonso's.</p> + + <p>Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business is + carried on in Zanzibar slave-market. A man goes about calling out + the price he wants for the slave, who walks behind him; if a + woman, she is taken into a hut to be examined in a state of + nudity.</p> + + <p>Some of the Arabs believe that meteoric stones are thrown at + Satan for his wickedness. They believe that cannon were taken up + Kilimanjaro by the first Arabs who came into the country, and + there they lie. They deny that Van der Decken did more than go + round a portion of the base of the mountain; he could not get on + the mass of the mountain: all his donkeys and some of his men + died by the cold. Hamees seems to be Cooley's great geographical + oracle!</p> + + <p>The information one can cull from the Arabs respecting the + country on the north-west is very indefinite. They magnify the + difficulties in the way by tales of the cannibal tribes, where + anyone dying is bought and no one ever buried, but this does not + agree with the fact, which also is asserted, that the cannibals + have plenty of sheep and goats. The Rua is about ten days west of + Tanganyika, and five days beyond it a lake or river ten miles + broad is reached; it is said to be called Logarawá. All + the water flows <a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>northwards, + but no reliance can be placed on the statements. Kiombo is said + to be chief of Rua country.</p> + + <p>Another man asserts that Tanganyika flows northwards and forms + a large water beyond Uganda, but no dependence can be placed on + the statements of these half Arabs; they pay no attention to + anything but ivory and food.</p> + + <p><i>25th August, 1867.</i>—Nsama requested the Arabs to + give back his son who was captured; some difficulty was made + about this by his captor, but Hamees succeeded in getting him and + about nine others, and they are sent off to-day. We wait only for + the people, who are scattered about the country. Hamees presented + cakes, flour, a fowl and leg of goat, with a piece of eland meat: + this animal goes by the same name here as at + Kolobeng—"Pofu."<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id= + "FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class= + "fnanchor">[56]</a></p> + + <p>A fig-tree here has large knobs on the bark, like some species + of acacia; and another looks like the Malolo of the Zambesi + magnified. A yellow wood gives an odour like incense when + burned.</p> + + <p>A large spider makes a nest inside the huts. It consists of a + piece of pure white paper, an inch and a half broad, stuck flat + on the wall; under this some forty or fifty eggs are placed, and + then a quarter of an inch of thinner paper is put round it, + apparently to fasten the first firmly. When making the paper the + spider moves itself over the surface in wavy lines; she then sits + on it with her eight legs spread over all for three weeks + continuously, catching and eating any insects, as cockroaches, + that come near her nest. After three weeks she leaves it to hunt + for food, but always returns at night: the natives do not molest + it.</p> + + <p>A small ant masters the common fly by seizing a wing or leg, + and holding on till the fly is tired out; at first the fly + <a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>can move about on the wing + without inconvenience, but it is at last obliged to succumb to an + enemy very much smaller than itself.</p> + + <p>A species of Touraco, new to me, has a broad yellow mask on + the upper part of the bill and forehead; the topknot is purple, + the wings the same as in other species, but the red is roseate. + The yellow of the mask plates is conspicuous at a distance.</p> + + <p>A large callosity forms on the shoulders of the regular + Unyamwesi porters, from the heavy weights laid on them. I have + noticed them an inch and a half thick along the top of the + shoulders. An old man was pointed out to me who had once carried + five frasilahs (= 175 lbs.) of ivory from his own country to the + coast.</p> + + <p><i>30th August, 1867.</i>—We marched to-day from + Chitimba's village after three months and ten days' delay. On + reaching Ponda, 2-1/2 hours distant, we found Tipo Tipo, or + Hamidi bin Mohamad, gone on, and so we followed him. Passed a + fine stream flowing S.W. to the Lofu. Tipo Tipo gave me a fine + fat goat.</p> + + <p><i>31st August, 1867.</i>—Pass along a fine undulating + district, with much country covered with forest, but many open + glades, and fine large trees along the water-courses. We were on + the northern slope of the watershed, and could see far. Crossed + two fine rivulets. The oozes still full and flowing.</p> + + <p><i>1st September, 1867.</i>—We had to march in the + afternoon on account of a dry patch existing in the direct way. + We slept without water, though by diverging a few miles to the + north we should have crossed many streams, but this is the best + path for the whole year.</p> + + <p>Baraka went back to Tipo Tipo's village, thus putting his + intention of begging among the Arab slaves into operation. He has + only one complaint, and that is dislike to work. He tried + perseveringly to get others to run away with him; lost the + medicine-box, six table-cloths, and all our tools <a name= + "Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>by giving his load off to a country + lad while he went to collect mushrooms: he will probably return + to Zanzibar, and be a slave to the Arab slaves after being a + perpetual nuisance to us for upwards of a year.</p> + + <p><i>2nd September, 1867.</i>—When we reached the ford of + the Lofu, we found that we were at least a thousand feet below + Chitimba's. The last six hours of our march were without water, + but when near to Chungu's village at the ford we came to fine + flowing rivulets, some ten feet or so broad. Here we could see + westwards and northwards the long lines of hills of denudation in + Nsama's country, which till lately was densely peopled. Nsama is + of the Babemba family. Kasonso, Chitimba, Kiwé, + Urongwé, are equals and of one family, Urungai. Chungu is + a pleasant person, and liberal according to his means. Large game + is very abundant through all this country.</p> + + <p>The Lofu at the ford was 296 feet, the water flowing briskly + over hardened sandstone flag, and from thigh to waist deep; + elsewhere it is a little narrower, but not passable except by + canoes.</p> + + <p><i>4th and 5th September, 1867.</i>—Went seven hours + west of the Lofu to a village called Hara, one of those burned by + Hamees because the people would not take a peaceful message to + Nsama. This country is called Itawa, and Hara is one of the + districts. We waited at Hara to see if Nsama wished us any nearer + to himself. He is very much afraid of the Arabs, and well he may + be, for he was until lately supposed to be invincible. He fell + before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic throughout the + country. The land is full of food, though the people have nearly + all fled. The ground-nuts are growing again for want of reapers; + and 300 people living at free-quarters make no impression on the + food.</p> + + <p><i>9th September, 1867.</i>—Went three hours west of + Hara, and came to Nsama's new stockade, built close by the old + one <a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>burned by Tipo Tipo, as + Hamidi bin Mohamed was named by Nsama.<a name="FNanchor_57_57" + id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class= + "fnanchor">[57]</a> I sent a message to Nsama, and received an + invitation to come and visit him, but bring no guns. A large + crowd of his people went with us, and before we came to the inner + stockade they felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were + concealed about my person. When we reached Nsama, we found a very + old man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, showing + that he was addicted to pombe: his people have to carry him. I + gave him a cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, which he readily + granted, and asked leave to feel my clothes and hair. I advised + him to try and live at peace, but his people were all so much + beyond the control of himself and headmen, that at last, after + scolding them, he told me that he would send for me by night, and + then we could converse, but this seems to have gone out of his + head. He sent me a goat, flour, and pombe, and next day we + returned to Hara.</p> + + <p>Nsama's people have generally small, well-chiseled features, + and many are really handsome, and have nothing of the West Coast + Negro about them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and + greatly disfigure their mouths. The only difference between them + and Europeans is the colour. Many of the men have very + finely-formed heads, and so have the women; and the fashion of + wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to advantage. The + forehead is shaved off to the crown, the space narrowing as it + goes up; then the back hair, is arranged into knobs of about ten + rows.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a><i>10th September, + 1867.</i>—Some people of Ujiji have come to Nsama's to buy + ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled + them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, or + rather canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands. My goods are + reported safe, and the meat of the buffaloes which died in the + way is there, and sun-dried. I sent a box, containing papers, + books, and some clothes, to Ujiji.</p> + + <p><i>14th September, 1867.</i>—I remained at Hara, for I + was ill, and Hamees had no confidence in Nsama, because he + promised his daughter to wife by way of cementing the peace, but + had not given her. Nsama also told Hamees to stay at Hara, and he + would send him ivory for sale, but none came, nor do people come + here to sell provisions, as they do elsewhere; so Hamees will + return to Chitimba's, to guard his people and property there, and + send on Syde Hamidi and his servants to Lopéré, + Kabuiré, and Moero, to buy ivory. He advised me to go with + them, as he has no confidence in Nsama; and Hamidi thought that + this was the plan to be preferred: it would be slower, as they + would purchase ivory on the road, but safer to pass his country + altogether than trust myself in his power.</p> + + <p>The entire population of the country has received a shock from + the conquest of Nsama, and their views of the comparative values + of bows and arrows and guns have undergone a great change. Nsama + was the Napoleon of these countries; no one could stand before + him, hence the defeat of the invincible Nsama has caused a great + panic. The Arabs say that they lost about fifty men in all: Nsama + must have lost at least an equal number. The people seem + intelligent, and will no doubt act on the experience so dearly + bought.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="fp232" id="fp232"></a> <img src="images/fp232.jpg" + width="500" height="285" alt="The Arrival of Hamees' Bride" + title="The Arrival of Hamees' Bride" /><br /> + <b>The Arrival of + Hamees' Bride</b> + </div> + + <p>In the midst of the doubts of Hamees a daughter of Nsama came + this afternoon to be a wife and cementer of the peace! She came + riding "pickaback" on a man's <a name="Page_232" id= + "Page_232"></a>shoulders; a nice, modest, good-looking young + woman, her hair rubbed all over with <i>nkola</i>, a red pigment, + made from the camwood, and much used as an ornament. She was + accompanied by about a dozen young and old female attendants, + each carrying a small basket with some provisions, as cassava, + ground-nuts, &c. The Arabs were all dressed in their finery, + and the slaves, in fantastic dresses, flourished swords, fired + guns, and yelled. When she was brought to Hamees' hut she + descended, and with her maids went into the hut. She and her + attendants had all small, neat features. I had been sitting with + Hamees, and now rose up and went away; as I passed him, he spoke + thus to himself: "Hamees Wadim Tagh! see to what you have brought + yourself!!"</p> + + <p><i>15th September, 1867.</i>—A guide had come from Nsama + to take us to the countries beyond his territory. Hamees set off + this morning with his new wife to his father-in-law, but was soon + met by two messengers, who said that he was not to come yet. We + now sent for all the people who were out to go west or north-west + without reference to Nsama.</p> + + <p><i>16th-18th September, 1867.</i>—Hamidi went to Nsama + to try and get guides, but he would not let him come into his + stockade unless he came up to it without either gun or sword. + Hamidi would not go in on these conditions, but Nsama promised + guides, and they came after a visit by Hamees to Nsama, which he + paid without telling any of us: he is evidently ashamed of his + father-in-law.</p> + + <p>Those Arabs who despair of ivory invest their remaining beads + and cloth in slaves.</p> + + <p><i>20th September, 1867.</i>—I had resolved to go to + Nsama's, and thence to Moero to-day, but Hamees sent to say that + men had come, and we were all to go with them on the 22nd. Nsama + was so vacillating that I had no doubt but this was best.</p> + + <p>Hamees' wife, seeing the preparations that were made for + starting, thought that her father was to be attacked, <a name= + "Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>so she, her attendants, and the + guides decamped by night. Hamees went again to Nsama and got + other guides to enable us to go off at once.</p> + + <p><i>22nd September, 1867.</i>—We went north for a couple + of hours, then descended into the same valley as that in which I + found Nsama. This valley is on the slope of the watershed, and + lies east and west: a ridge of dark-red sandstone, covered with + trees, forms its side on the south. Other ridges like this make + the slope have the form of a stair with huge steps: the descent + is gradually lost as we insensibly climb up the next ridge. The + first plain between the steps is at times swampy, and the paths + are covered with the impressions of human feet, which, being + hardened by the sun, make walking on their uneven surface very + difficult. Mosquitoes again; we had lost them during our long + stay on the higher lands behind us.</p> + + <p><i>23rd September, 1867.</i>—A fire had broken out the + night after we left Hara, and the wind being strong, it got the + upper hand, and swept away at once the whole of the temporary + village of dry straw huts: Hamees lost all his beads, guns, + powder, and cloth, except one bale. The news came this morning, + and prayers were at once offered for him with incense; some goods + will also be sent, as a little incense was. The prayer-book was + held in the smoke of the incense while the responses were made. + These Arabs seem to be very religious in their way: the prayers + were chiefly to Harasji, some relative of Mohamad.</p> + + <p><i>24th September, 1867.</i>—Roused at 3 A.M. to be told + that the next stage had no water, and we should be oppressed with + the midday heat if we went now. We were to go at 2 P.M. Hamidi's + wife being ill yesterday put a stop to our march on that + afternoon. After the first hour we descended from the ridge to + which we had ascended, we had then a wall of tree-covered rocks + on our left of more than a thousand feet in altitude; after + flanking it for a while we went up, <a name="Page_234" id= + "Page_234"></a>and then along it northwards till it vanished in + forest. Slept without a fresh supply of water.</p> + + <p><i>25th September, 1867.</i>—Off at 5.30 A.M., through + the same well-grown forest we have passed and came to a village + stockade, where the gates were shut, and the men all outside, in + fear of the Arabs; we then descended from the ridge on which it + stood, about a thousand feet, into an immense plain, with a large + river in the distance, some ten miles off.</p> + + <p><i>26th September, 1867.</i>—Two and a half hours + brought us to the large river we saw yesterday; it is more than a + mile wide and full of papyrus and other aquatic plants and very + difficult to ford, as the papyrus roots are hard to the bare + feet, and we often plunged into holes up to the waist. A loose + mass floated in the middle of our path; one could sometimes get + on along this while it bent and heaved under the weight, but + through it he would plunge and find great difficulty to get out: + the water under this was very cold from evaporation; it took an + hour and a half to cross it. It is called Chiséra, and + winds away to the west to fall into the Kalongosi and Moero. Many + animals, as elephants, tahetsis, zebras, and buffaloes, graze on + the long sloping banks of about a quarter of a mile down, while + the ranges of hills we crossed as mere ridges now appear behind + us in the south.</p> + + <p><i>27th September, 1867.</i>—The people are numerous and + friendly. One elephant was killed, and we remained to take the + ivory from the dead beast; buffaloes and zebras were also killed. + It was so cloudy that no observations could be taken to determine + our position, but Chiséra rises in Lopéré. + Further west it is free of papyrus, and canoes are required to + cross it.</p> + + <p><i>28th September, 1867.</i>—Two hours north brought us + to the Kamosenga, a river eight yards wide, of clear water which + ran strongly among aquatic plants. Hippopotami, buffalo, and + zebra abound. This goes into the Chiséra eastwards; + <a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>country flat and covered + with dense tangled bush. Cassias and another tree of the pea + family are now in flower, and perfume the air. Other two hours + took us round a large bend of this river.</p> + + <p><i>30th September, 1867.</i>.—We crossed the Kamosenga + or another, and reach Karungu's. The Kamosenga divides + Lopéré from Itawa, the latter being Nsama's + country; Lopéré is north-west of it.</p> + + <p><i>1st October, 1867.</i>—Karungu was very much afraid + of us; he kept every one out of his stockade at first, but during + the time the Arabs sent forward to try and conciliate other + chiefs he gradually became more friendly. He had little ivory to + sell, and of those who had, Mtété or Mtéma + seemed inclined to treat the messengers roughly. Men were also + sent to Nsama asking him to try and induce Mtéma and + Chikongo to be friendly and sell ivory and provisions, but he + replied that these chiefs were not men under him, and if they + thought themselves strong enough to contend against guns he had + nothing to say to them. Other chiefs threatened to run away as + soon as they saw the Arabs approaching. These were assured that + we meant to pass through the country alone, and if they gave us + guides to show us how, we should avoid the villages altogether, + and proceed to the countries where ivory was to be bought; + however, the panic was too great, no one would agree to our + overtures, and at last when we did proceed a chief on the River + Choma fulfilled his threat and left us three empty villages. + There were no people to sell though the granaries were crammed, + and it was impossible to prevent the slaves from stealing.</p> + + <p><i>3rd-4th October, 1867.</i>—When Chikongo heard Tipo + Tipo's message about buying ivory he said, "And when did Tipo + Tipo place ivory in my country that he comes seeking it?" Yet he + sent a tusk and said "That is all I have, and he is not to come + here." Their hostile actions are caused principally <a name= + "Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>by fear. "If Nsama could not stand + before the Malongwana or traders, how can we face them?" I wished + to go on to Moero, but all declare that our ten guns would put + all the villages to flight: they are terror-struck. First rains + of this season on the 5th.</p> + + <p><i>10th October, 1867.</i>—I had a long conversation + with Syde, who thinks that the sun rises and sets because the + Koran says so, and he sees it. He asserts that Jesus foretold the + coming of Mohamad; and that it was not Jesus who suffered on the + cross but a substitute, it being unlikely that a true prophet + would be put to death so ignominiously. He does not understand + how we can be glad that our Saviour died for our sins.</p> + + <p><i>12th October, 1867.</i>—An elephant killed by Tipo + Tipo's men. It is always clouded over, and often not a breath of + air stirring.</p> + + <p><i>16th October, 1867.</i>—A great many of the women of + this district and of Lopéré have the swelled + thyroid gland called <i>goitre</i> or Derbyshire neck; men, too, + appeared with it, and they in addition have hydrocele of large + size.</p> + + <p>An Arab who had been long ill at Chitimba's died yesterday, + and was buried in the evening. No women were allowed to come + near. A long silent prayer was uttered over the corpse when it + was laid beside the grave, and then a cloth was held over as men + in it deposited the remains beneath sticks placed slanting on the + side of the bottom of the grave; this keeps the earth from coming + directly into contact with the body.</p> + + <p>A feast was made by the friends of the departed, and portions + sent to all who had attended the funeral: I got a good share.</p> + + <p><i>18th October, 1867.</i>—The last we hear of Nsama is + that he will not interfere with Chikongo. Two wives beat drums + and he dances to them; he is evidently in his dotage. We hear of + many Arabs to the west of us.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a><i>20th October, + 1867.</i>—Very ill; I am always so when I have no + work—sore bones—much headache; then lost power over + the muscles of the back, as at Liemba; no appetite and much + thirst. The fever uninfluenced by medicine.</p> + + <p><i>21st October, 1867.</i>—Syde sent his men to build a + new hut in a better situation. I hope it may be a healthful one + for me.</p> + + <p><i>22nd October, 1867.</i>—The final message from + Chikongo was a discouraging one—no ivory. The Arabs, + however, go west with me as far as Chisawé's, who, being + accustomed to Arabs from Tanganyika, will give me men to take me + on to Moero: the Arabs will then return, and we shall move + on.</p> + + <p><i>23rd October, 1867.</i>—Tipo Tipo gave Karungu some + cloth, and this chief is "looking for something" to give him in + return; this detains us one day more.</p> + + <p>When a slave wishes to change his master he goes to one whom + he likes better and breaks a spear or a bow in his + presence—the transference is irrevocable. This curious + custom prevails on the Zambesi, and also among the Wanyamwesi; if + the old master wishes to recover his slave the new one may refuse + to part with him except when he gets his full price: a case of + this kind happened here yesterday.</p> + + <p><i>25th October, 1867.</i>—Authority was found in the + Koran for staying one day more here. This was very trying; but + the fact was our guide from Hara hither had enticed a young slave + girl to run away, and he had given her in charge to one of his + countrymen, who turned round and tried to secure her for himself, + and gave information about the other enticing her away. Nothing + can be more tedious than the Arab way of travelling.</p> + + <p><i>26th October, 1867.</i>—We went S.W. for five hours + through an undulating, well-wooded, well-peopled country, and + quantities of large game. Several trees give out when burned + <a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>very fine scents; others do + it when cut. Euphorbia is abundant. We slept by a torrent which + had been filled with muddy water by late rains. It thunders every + afternoon, and rains somewhere as regularly as it thunders, but + these are but partial rains; they do not cool the earth; nor fill + the cracks made in the dry season.</p> + + <p><i>27th October, 1867.</i>—Off early in a fine drizzling + rain, which continued for two hours, and came on to a plain about + three miles broad, full of large game. These plains are swamps at + times, and they are flanked by ridges of denudation some 200 or + 300 feet above them, and covered with trees.</p> + + <p>The ridges are generally hardened sandstone, marked with + madrepores, and masses of brown haematite. It is very hot, and we + become very tired. There is no system in the Arab marches. The + first day was five hours, this 3-1/2 hours; had it been + reversed—short marches during the first days and longer + afterwards—the muscles would have become inured to the + exertion. A long line of heights on our south points to the + valley of Nsama.</p> + + <p><i>28th October, 1867.</i>—Five hours brought us to the + Choma River and the villages of Chifupa, but, as already + mentioned, the chief and people had fled, and no persuasion could + prevail on them to come and sell us food. We showed a few who + ventured to come among us what we were willing to give for flour, + but they said, "Yes, we will call the women and they will sell." + None came.</p> + + <p>Rested all day on the banks of the Choma, which is a muddy + stream coming from the north and going to the south-west to join + the Chiséra. It has worn itself a deep bed in the mud of + its banks, and is twenty yards wide and in some spots waist deep, + at other parts it is unfordable, it contains plenty of fish, and + hippopotami and crocodiles abound. I bought a few ground-nuts at + an exorbitant price, the men evidently not seeing that it + <a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>would have been better to + part with more at a lower price than run off and leave all to be + eaten by the slaves.</p> + + <p><i>30th October, 1867.</i>—Two ugly images were found in + huts built for them: they represent in a poor way the people of + the country, and are used in rain-making and curing the sick + ceremonies; this is the nearest approach to idol worship I have + seen in the country.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id= + "FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class= + "fnanchor">[58]</a></p> + + <p><i>31st October, 1867.</i>—We marched over a long line + of hills on our west, and in five and a half hours came to some + villages where the people sold us food willingly, and behaved + altogether in a friendly way. We were met by a herd of buffaloes, + but Syde seized my gun from the boy who carried it, and when the + animals came close past me I was powerless, and not at all + pleased with the want of good sense shown by my usually polite + Arab friend.</p> + + <p><i>Note</i>.—The Choma is said by Mohamad bin Saleh to + go into Tanganyika (??). It goes to Kalongosi.</p> + + <p><i>1st November, 1867.</i>—We came along between ranges + of hills considerably higher than those we have passed in Itawa + or Nsama's country, and thickly covered with trees, some in full + foliage, and some putting forth fresh red leaves; the hills are + about 700 or 800 feet above the valleys. This is not a district + of running rills: we crossed three sluggish streamlets knee deep. + Buffaloes are very numerous.</p> + + <p>The Ratel covers the buffalo droppings with earth in order to + secure the scavenger beetles which bury themselves therein, thus + he prevents them from rolling a portion away as usual.</p> + + <p>We built our sheds on a hillside. Our course was west and + 6-1/4 hours.</p> + + <p><i>2nd November, 1867.</i>—Still in the same direction, + and in an open valley remarkable for the numbers of a small + euphorbia,<a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a> which we + smashed at every step. Crossed a small but strong rivulet, the + Lipandé, going south-west to Moero, then, an hour + afterwards, crossed it again, now twenty yards wide and knee + deep. After descending from the tree-covered hill which divides + Lipandé from Luao, we crossed the latter to sleep on its + western bank. The hills are granite now, and a range on our left, + from 700 to 1500 feet high, goes on all the way to Moero.</p> + + <p>These valleys along which we travel are beautiful. Green is + the prevailing colour; but the clumps of trees assume a great + variety of forms, and often remind one of English park scenery. + The long line of slaves and carriers, brought up by their Arab + employers, adds life to the scene, they are in three bodies, and + number 450 in all. Each party has a guide with a flag, and when + that is planted all that company stops till it is lifted, and a + drum is beaten, and a kudu's horn sounded. One party is headed by + about a dozen leaders, dressed with fantastic head-gear of + feathers and beads, red cloth on the bodies, and skins cut into + strips and twisted: they take their places in line, the drum + beats, the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in. These sounds + seem to awaken a sort of <i>esprit de corps</i> in those who have + once been slaves. My attendants now jumped up, and would scarcely + allow me time to dress when they heard the-sounds of their + childhood, and all day they were among the foremost. One said to + me "that his feet were rotten with marching," and this though + told that they were not called on to race along like slaves.</p> + + <p>The Africans cannot stand sneers. When any mishap occurs in + the march (as when a branch tilts a load off a man's shoulder) + all who see it set up a yell of derision; if anything is + accidentally spilled, or if one is tired and sits down, the same + yell greets him, and all are excited thereby to exert themselves. + They hasten on with their loads, and hurry with the sheds they + build, the masters <a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>only + bringing up the rear, and helping anyone who may be sick. The + distances travelled were quite as much as the masters or we could + bear. Had frequent halts been made—as, for instance, a half + or a quarter of an hour at the end of every hour or two—but + little distress would have been felt; but five hours at a stretch + is more than men can bear in a hot climate. The female slaves + held on bravely; nearly all carried loads on their heads, the + head, or lady of the party, who is also the wife of the Arab, was + the only exception. She had a fine white shawl, with ornaments of + gold and silver on her head. These ladies had a jaunty walk, and + never gave in on the longest march; many pounds' weight of fine + copper leglets above the ankles seemed only to help the sway of + their walk: as soon as they arrive at the sleeping-place they + begin to cook, and in this art they show a good deal of + expertness, making savoury dishes for their masters out of wild + fruits and other not very likely materials.</p> + + <p><i>3rd November, 1867.</i>—The ranges of hills retire as + we advance; the soil is very rich. At two villages the people did + not want us, so we went on and encamped near a third, Kabwakwa, + where a son of Mohamad bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi, + lives. The chief of this part is Muabo, but we did not see him: + the people brought plenty of food for us to buy. The youth's + father is at Casembe's. The country-people were very much given + to falsehood—every place inquired for was near—ivory + abundant—provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our + headmen trusted to these statements of this young man rather, and + he led them to desist going further. Rua country was a month + distant, he said, and but little ivory there. It is but three + days off. (We saw it after three days.) "No ivory at Casembe's or + here in Buiré, or Kabuiré." He was right as to + Casembe. Letters, however, came from Hamees, with news of a + depressing nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is Mambwé. + <a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>Chitimba's people are + fighting for the chieftainship: great hunger prevails there now, + the Arabs having bought up all the food. Moriri, a chief + dispossessed of his country by Nsama, wished Hamees to restore + his possessions, but Hamees said that he had made peace, and + would not interfere.</p> + + <p>This unfavourable news from a part where the chief results of + their trading were deposited, made Syde and Tipo Tipo decide to + remain in Buiré only ten or twenty days, send out people + to buy what ivory they could find, and then, retire.</p> + + <p>As Syde and Tipo Tipo were sending men to Casembe for ivory, I + resolved to go thither first, instead of shaping my course for + Ujiji.</p> + + <p>Very many cases of goitre in men and women here: I see no + reason for it. This is only 3350 feet above the sea.</p> + + <p><i>7th November, 1867.</i>—Start for Moero, convoyed by + all the Arabs for some distance: they have been extremely kind. + We draw near to the mountain-range on our left, called Kakoma, + and sleep at one of Kaputa's villages, our course now being + nearly south.</p> + + <p><i>8th November, 1867.</i>—Villages are very thickly + studded over the valley formed by Kakoma range, and another at a + greater distance on our right; 100 or 200 yards is a common + distance between these villages, which, like those in Londa, or + Lunda, are all shaded with trees of a species of <i>Ficus + indica</i>. One belongs to Puta, and this Puta, the paramount + chief, sent to say that if we slept there, and gave him a cloth, + he would send men to conduct us next day, and ferry us across: I + was willing to remain, but his people would not lend a hut, so we + came on to the Lake, and no ferry. Probably he thought that we + were going across the Lualaba into Rua.</p> + + <p>Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of + mountains on the east and west. Its banks are <a name="Page_243" + id="Page_243"></a>of coarse sand, and slope gradually down to the + water: outside these banks stands a thick belt of tropical + vegetation, in which fishermen build their huts. The country + called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of dark + mountains: another range of less height, but more broken, stands + along the eastern shore, and in it lies the path to Casembe. We + slept in a fisherman's hut on the north shore. They brought a + large fish, called "mondé," for sale; it has a slimy skin, + and no scales, a large head, with tentaculae like the Siluridie, + and large eyes: the great gums in its mouth have a brush-like + surface, like a whale's in miniature: it is said to eat small + fish. A bony spine rises on its back (I suppose for defence), + which is 2-1/2 inches long, and as thick as a quill. They are + very retentive of life.</p> + + <p>The northern shore has a fine sweep like an unbent bow, and + round the western end flows the water that makes the river + Lualaba, which, before it enters Moero, is the Luapula, and that + again (if the most intelligent reports speak true) is the + Chambezé before it enters Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo.</p> + + <p>We came along the north shore till we reached the eastern + flanking range, then ascended and turned south, the people very + suspicious, shutting their gates as we drew near. We were alone, + and only nine persons in all, but they must have had reason for + fear. One headman refused us admission, then sent after us, + saying that the man who had refused admission was not the chief: + he had come from a distance, and had just arrived. It being + better to appear friendly than otherwise, we went back, and were + well entertained. Provisions were given when we went away. Flies + abound, and are very troublesome; they seem to be attracted by + the great numbers of fish caught. The people here are Babemba, + but beyond the river Kalongosi they are all Balunda.</p> + + <p>A trade in salt is carried on from different salt springs and + salt mud to Lunda and elsewhere. We meet parties of <a name= + "Page_244" id="Page_244"></a>salt-traders daily, and they return + our salutations very cordially, rubbing earth on the arms. We + find our path lies between two ranges of mountains, one flanking + the eastern shore, the other about three miles more inland, and + parallel to it: these are covered thickly with trees, and are of + loosely-coherent granite: many villages are in the space enclosed + by these ranges, but all insecure.</p> + + <p><i>12th November, 1867.</i>.—We came to the Kalongosi, + or, as the Arabs and Portuguese pronounce it, Karungwesi, about + 60 yards wide, and flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough, + even now when the rainy season is not commenced, to requite + canoes. It is said to rise in Kumbi, or Afar, a country to the + south-east of our ford. Fish in great numbers are caught when + ascending to spawn: they are secured by weirs, nets, hooks. Large + strong baskets are placed in the rapids, and filled with stones, + when the water rises these baskets are standing-places for the + fishermen to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed the + Kalongosi we were now in Lunda, or Londa.</p> + + <p><i>13th November, 1867.</i>—We saw that the Kalongosi + went north till it met a large meadow on the shores of Moero, + and, turning westwards, it entered there. The fishermen gave us + the names of 39 species of fish in the Lake; they said that they + never cease ascending the Kalongosi, though at times they are + more abundant than at others: they are as follows.</p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Mondé; Mota; Lasa; Kasibé; Molobé; + Lopembé; Motoya; Chipansa; Mpifu; Manda; Mpala; Moombo; + Mfeu; Mendé; Seusé; Kadia nkololo; Etiaka; Nkomo; + Lifisha; Sambamkaka; Ntondo; Sampa; Bongwé; Mabanga; + Kisé; Kuanya; Nkosu; Palé; Mosungu; Litembwa; + Mecheberé; Koninchia; Sipa; Lomembé; Molenga; + Mirongé; Nfindo; Pende.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>14th November, 1867.</i>—Being doubtful as to whether + we were in the right path, I sent to a village to inquire. The + <a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a>headman, evidently one of a + former Casembe school, came to us full of wrath. "What right had + we to come that way, seeing the usual path was to our left?" He + mouthed some sentences in the pompous Lunda style, but would not + show us the path; so we left him, and after going through a + forest of large trees, 4-1/2 hours south, took advantage of some + huts on the Kifurwa River, built by bark-cloth cutters.</p> + + <p><i>15th November, 1867.</i>—Heavy rains, but we went on, + and found a village, Kifurwa, surrounded by cassava fields, and + next day crossed the Muatozé, 25 yards wide, and running + strongly towards Moero, knee deep. The River Kabukwa, seven yards + wide, and also knee deep, going to swell the Muatozé.</p> + + <p>We now crossed a brook, Chirongo, one yard wide and one deep; + but our march was all through well-grown forest, chiefly + gum-copal trees and bark-cloth trees. The gum-copal oozes out in + abundance after or during the rains, from holes a quarter of an + inch in diameter, made by an insect: it falls, and in time sinks + into the soil, a supply for future generations. The small + well-rounded features of the people of Nsama's country are common + here, as we observe in the salt-traders and villages; indeed, + this is the home of the Negro, and the features such as we see in + pictures of ancient Egyptians, as first pointed out by Mr. + Winwood Reade. We sleep by the river Mandapala, 12 yards wide, + and knee deep.</p> + + <p><i>18th November, 1867.</i>—We rest by the Kabusi, a + sluggish narrow rivulet. It runs into the Chungu, a quarter of a + mile off. The Chungu is broad, but choked with trees and aquatic + plants: Sapotas, Eschinomenas, Papyrus, &c. The free stream + is 18 yards wide, and waist deep. We had to wade about 100 yards, + thigh and waist deep, to get to the free stream.</p> + + <p>On this, the Chungu, Dr. Lacerda died; it is joined by + <a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a>the Mandapala, and flows a + united stream into Moero. The statements of the people are + confused, but the following is what I have gleaned from many. + There were some Ujiji people with the Casembe of the time. The + Portuguese and Ujijians began to fight, but Casembe said to them + and the Portuguese, "You are all my guests, why should you fight + and kill each other?" He then gave Lacerda ten slaves, and men to + live with him and work at building huts, bringing firewood, + water, &c. He made similar presents to the Ujijians, which + quieted them. Lacerda was but ten days at Chungu when he died. + The place of his death was about 9° 32', and not 8° 43' + as in Mr. Arrowsmith's map. The feud arose from one of Lacerda's + people killing an Ujijian at the water: this would certainly be a + barrier to their movements.</p> + + <p>Palm-oil trees are common west of the Chungu, but none + appeared east of it. The oil is eaten by the people, and is very + nice and sweet. This is remarkable, as the altitude above the sea + is 3350 feet.</p> + + <p>Allah is a very common exclamation among all the people west + of Nsama. By advice of a guide whom we picked up at Kifurwa, we + sent four fathoms of calico to apprise Casembe of our coming: the + Arabs usually send ten fathoms; in our case it was a very + superfluous notice, for Casembe is said to have been telegraphed + to by runners at every stage of our progress after crossing the + Kalongosi.</p> + + <p>We remain by the Chungu till Casembe sends one of his + counsellors to guide us to his town. It has been so perpetually + clouded over that we have been unable to make out our progress, + and the dense forest prevented us seeing Moero as we wished: rain + and thunder perpetually, though the rain seldom fell where we + were.</p> + + <p>I saw pure white-headed swallows <i>(Psalidoprocne + albiceps)</i> skimming the surface of the Chungu as we crossed + it. The <a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a>soil is very rich. + Casembe's ground-nuts are the largest I have seen, and so is the + cassava. I got over a pint of palm oil for a cubit of calico.</p> + + <p>A fine young man, whose father had been the Casembe before + this one, came to see us; he is in the background now, otherwise + he would have conducted us to the village: a son or heir does not + succeed to the chieftainship here.</p> + + <p><i>21st November, 1867.</i>—The River Lundé was + five miles from Chungu. It is six yards wide where we crossed it, + but larger further down; springs were oozing out of its bed: we + then entered on a broad plain, covered with bush, the trees being + all cleared off in building a village. When one Casembe dies, the + man who succeeds him invariably removes and builds his + pembwé, or court, at another place: when Dr. Lacerda died, + the Casembe moved to near the north end of the Mofwé. + There have been seven Casembes in all. The word means a + <i>general</i>.</p> + + <p>The plain extending from the Lundé to the town of + Casembe is level, and studded pretty thickly with red anthills, + from 15 to 20 feet high. Casembe has made a broad path from his + town to the Lundé, about a mile-and-a-half long, and as + broad as a carriage-path. The chief's residence is enclosed in a + wall of reeds, 8 or 9 feet high, and 300 yards square, the + gateway is ornamented with about sixty human skulls; a shed + stands in the middle of the road before we come to the gate, with + a cannon dressed in gaudy cloths. A number of noisy fellows + stopped our party, and demanded tribute for the cannon; I burst + through them, and the rest followed without giving anything: they + were afraid of the English. The town is on the east bank of the + Lakelet Mofwé, and one mile from its northern end. Mohamad + bin Saleh now met us, his men firing guns of welcome; he + conducted us to his shed of reception, and then gave us a hut + till we could build one of our own. Mohamad is a <a name= + "Page_248" id="Page_248"></a>fine portly black Arab, with a + pleasant smile, and pure white beard, and has been more than ten + years in these parts, and lived with four Casembes: he has + considerable influence here, and also on Tanganyika.</p> + + <p>An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogharib, who arrived seven days + before us with an immense number of slaves, presented a meal of + vermicelli, oil, and honey, also cassava meal cooked, so as to + resemble a sweet meat (I had not tasted honey or sugar since we + left Lake Nyassa, in September 1866): they had coffee too.</p> + + <p>Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people + are confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively + cultivated, indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is + impossible to know which is town and which is country: every hut + has a plantation around it, in which is grown cassava, Holcus + sorghum, maize, beans, nuts.</p> + + <p>Mohamad gives the same account of the River Luapula and Lake + Bemba that Jumbé did, but he adds, that the + Chambezé, where we crossed it, <i>is</i> the Luapula + before it enters Bemba or Bangweolo: on coming out of that Lake + it turns round and comes away to the north, as Luapula, and, + without touching the Mofwé, goes into Moero; then, + emerging thence at the north-west end it becomes Lualaba, goes + into Rua, forms a lake there, and afterwards goes into another + lake beyond Tanganyika.</p> + + <p>The Lakelet Mofwé fills during the rains and spreads + westward, much beyond its banks. Elephants wandering in its mud + flats when covered are annually killed in numbers: if it were + connected with the Lake Moero the flood would run off.</p> + + <p>Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped and + hands lopped off: the present chief has been often guilty of this + barbarity. One man has just come to us without ears or hands: he + tries to excite our pity making a <a name="Page_249" id= + "Page_249"></a>chirruping noise, by striking his cheeks with the + stumps of his hands.</p> + + <p>A dwarf also, one Zofu, with backbone broken, comes about us: + he talks with an air of authority, and is present at all public + occurrences: the people seem to bear with him. He is a stranger + from a tribe in the north, and works in his garden very briskly: + his height is 3 feet 9 inches.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> + Chéfu amongst the Manganja. Any animal possessing + strength, has the terminal "fu" or "vu;" thus Njobvu, an + elephant; M'vu, the hippopotamus.—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> The + natives are quick to detect a peculiarity in a man, and give + him a name accordingly: the conquerors of a country try to + forestall them by selecting one for themselves. Susi states + that when Tipo Tipo stood over the spoil taken from Nsama, he + gathered it closer together and said, "Now I am Tipo Tipo," + that is, "the gatherer together of wealth." Kumba Kumba, of + whom we shall hear much, took his name from the number of + captives he gathered in his train under similar + circumstances; it might be translated, "the collector of + people."—ED.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> It is + on the West Coast alone that idols are really worshipped in + Africa.—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><a name="Page_250" id= + "Page_250"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Grand reception of the traveller. Casenibe and his wife. + Long stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord + Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of + 1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The + River Luao. Visits Kabwawata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin + Saleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground + dwellings.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>24th November, 1867.</i>—We were called to be + presented to Casembe in a grand reception.</p> + + <p>The present Casembe has a heavy uninteresting countenance, + without beard or whiskers, and somewhat of the Chinese type, and + his eyes have an outward squint. He smiled but once during the + day, and that was pleasant enough, though the cropped ears and + lopped hands, with human skulls at the gate, made me indisposed + to look on anything with favour. His principal wife came with her + attendants, after he had departed, to look at the Englishman + (Moenge-résé). She was a fine, tall, good-featured + lady, with two spears in her hand; the principal men who had come + around made way for her, and called on me to salute: I did so; + but she, being forty yards off, I involuntarily beckoned her to + come nearer: this upset the gravity of all her attendants; all + burst into a laugh, and ran off.</p> + + <p>Casembe's smile was elicited by the dwarf making some uncouth + antics before him. His executioner also came forward to look: he + had a broad Lunda sword on his arm, and a curious scizzor-like + instrument at his neck for crop<a name="Page_251" id= + "Page_251"></a>ping ears. On saying to him that his was nasty + work, he smiled, and so did many who were not sure of their ears + a moment: many men of respectability show that at some former + time they have been thus punished. Casembe sent us another large + basket of fire-dried fish in addition to that sent us at Chungu, + two baskets of flour, one of dried cassava, and a pot of pombe or + beer. Mohamad, who was accustomed to much more liberal Casembes, + thinks this one very stingy, having neither generosity nor good + sense; but as we cannot consume all he gives, we do not + complain.</p> + + <p><i>27th November, 1867.</i>—Casembe's chief wife passes + frequently to her plantation, carried by six, or more commonly by + twelve men in a sort of palanquin: she has European features, but + light-brown complexion. A number of men run before her, + brandishing swords and battle-axes, and one beats a hollow + instrument, giving warning to passengers to clear the way: she + has two enormous pipes ready filled for smoking. She is very + attentive to her agriculture; cassava is the chief product; sweet + potatoes, maize, sorghum, pennisetum, millet, ground-nuts, + cotton. The people seem more savage than any I have yet seen: + they strike each other barbarously from mere wantonness, but they + are civil enough to me.</p> + + <p>Mohamad bin Saleh proposes to go to Ujiji next month. He + waited when he heard of our coming, in order that we might go + together: he has a very low opinion of the present chief. The + area which has served for building the chief town at different + times is about ten miles in diameter.</p> + + <p>Mofwé is a shallow piece of water about two miles + broad, four or less long, full of sedgy islands, the abodes of + waterfowl, but some are solid enough to be cultivated. The bottom + is mud, though sandy at the east shore: it has no com<a name= + "Page_252" id="Page_252"></a>munication with the Luapula. + <i>(28th November, 1867.</i>) The Lundé, Chungu, and + Mandapala are said to join and flow into Moero. Fish are in great + abundance (perch). On the west side there is a grove of palm-oil + palms, and beyond west rises a long range of mountains of the Rua + country 15 or 20 miles off.</p> + + <p><i>1st December, 1867.</i>—An old man named + Pérémbé is the owner of the land on which + Casembe has built. They always keep up the traditional ownership. + Munongo is a brother of Pérémbé, and he owns + the country east of the Kalongosi: if any one wished to cultivate + land he would apply to these aboriginal chiefs for it.</p> + + <p>I asked a man from Casembe to guide me to south end of Moero, + but he advised me not to go as it was so marshy. The Lundé + forms a marsh on one side, and the Luapula lets water percolate + through sand and mud, and so does the Robukwé, which makes + the path often knee deep. He said he would send men to conduct me + to Moero, a little further down, and added that we had got very + little to eat from him, and he wanted to give more. Moero's south + end is about 9° 30' S.</p> + + <p>Old Pérémbé is a sensible man: Mohamad + thinks him 150 years old. He is always on the side of liberality + and fairness; he says that the first Casembe was attracted to + Mofwé by the abundance of fish in it. He has the idea of + all men being derived from a single pair.</p> + + <p><i>7th December, 1867.</i>—It is very cloudy here; no + observations can be made, as it clouds over every afternoon and + night. <i>(8th and 11th December, 1867.</i>) Cleared off last + night, but intermittent fever prevented my going out.</p> + + <p><i>13th December, 1867.</i>—Set-in rains. A number of + fine young girls who live in Casembe's compound came and shook + hands in their way, which is to cross the right over to your + left, and clasp them; then give a few claps with both hands, + <a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a>and repeat the crossed + clasp: they want to tell their children that they have seen + me.</p> + + <p><i>15th December, 1867.</i>—To-day I announced to + Casembe our intention of going away. Two traders got the same + return present from him that I did, namely, one goat and some + fish, meal and cassava. I am always ill when not working; I spend + my time writing letters, to be ready when we come to Ujiji. + <i>(18th December, 1867.</i>) We have been here a month, and I + cannot get more than two lunars: I got altitudes of the meridian + of stars north and south soon after we came, but not lunars. + Casembe sent a big basket of fire-dried fish, two pots of beer, + and a basket of cassava, and says we may go when we choose.</p> + + <p><i>19th December, 1867.</i>—On going to say good-bye to + Casembe, he tried to be gracious, said that we had eaten but + little of his food; yet he allowed us to go. He sent for a man to + escort us; and on the <i>22nd December, 1867.</i> we went to + Lundé River, crossed it, and went on to sleep at the + Chungu, close by the place where Casembe's court stood when Dr. + Lacerda came, for the town was moved further west as soon as the + Doctor died. There are many palm-oil palms about, but no + tradition exists of their introduction.</p> + + <p><i>23rd December, 1867.</i>—We crossed the Chungu. Rain + from above, and cold and wet to the waist below, as I do not lift + my shirt, because the white skin makes all stare. I saw black + monkeys at this spot. The Chungu is joined by the Kaleusi and the + Mandapala before it enters Moero. Casembe said that the + Lundé ran into Mofwé; others denied this, and said + that it formed a marsh with numbers of pools in long grass; but + it may ooze into Mofwé thus. Casembe sent three men to + guide me to Moero.</p> + + <p><i>24th December, 1867.</i>—Drizzly rain, and we are in + a miserable spot by the Kabusi, in a bed of brakens four feet + high. The guides won't stir in this weather. I gave beads to buy + what could be got for Christmas.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a><i>25th December, + 1867.</i>—Drizzly showers every now and then; soil, black + mud.</p> + + <p>About ten men came as guides and as a convoy of honour to + Mohamad.</p> + + <p><i>27th December, 1867.</i>—In two hours we crossed + Mandapala, now waist deep. This part was well stocked with people + five years ago, but Casembe's severity in cropping ears and other + mutilations, selling the children for slight offences, &c., + made them all flee to neighbouring tribes; and now, if he sent + all over the country, he could not collect a thousand men.</p> + + <p>[Livingstone refers (on the 15th Dec.) to some writings he was + engaged upon, and we find one of them here in his journal which + takes the form of a despatch to Lord Clarendon, with a note + attached to the effect that it was not copied or sent, as he had + no paper for the purpose. It affords an epitomised description of + his late travels, and the stay at Casembe, and is inserted here + in the place of many notes written daily, but which only repeat + the same events and observations in a less readable form. It is + especially valuable at this stage of his journal, because it + treats on the whole geography of the district between Lakes + Nyassa and Moero, with a broad handling which is impossible in + the mere jottings of a diary.]</p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Town Of Casembe, <i>10th December, 1867.</i>.</p> + + <p>Lat. 9° 37' 13" South; long. 28° East.</p> + + <p>The Right Honourable the Earl of Clarendon.</p> + + <p>My Lord,—The first opportunity I had of sending a + letter to the coast occurred in February last, when I was at a + village called Molemba (lat. 10° 14' S.; long. 31° 46' + E.), in the country named Lobemba. Lobisa, Lobemba, Ulungu + <a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a>and Itawa-Lunda are the + names by which the districts of an elevated region between the + parallels 11° and 8° south, and meridians + 28°-33° long. east, are known. The altitude of this + upland is from 4000 to 6000 feet above the level of the sea. It + is generally covered with forest, well watered by numerous + rivulets, and comparatively cold. The soil is very rich, and + yields abundantly wherever cultivated. This is the watershed + between the Loangwa, a tributary of the Zambesi, and several + rivers which flow towards the north. Of the latter, the most + remarkable is the Chambezé, for it assists in the + formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times in + the five or six hundred miles of its course.</p> + + <p>On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded + northwards, perceived by the barometers and the courses of + numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction. + A friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that I + wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his country, gave + his son with a large escort to guide me thither; and on the 2nd + April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in + which the Lake reposes. The descent is 2000 feet, and still the + surface of the water is upwards of 2500 feet above the level of + the sea. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes + the rocks run the whole 2000 feet sheer down to the water. + Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the + cliffs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered + with well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks + protrude. The scenery is extremely beautiful. The "Aeasy," a + stream of 15 yards broad and thigh deep, came down alongside + our precipitous path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet + at a time. These, with the bright red of the clay schists among + the greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause + and remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants + abound on the steep <a name="Page_256" id= + "Page_256"></a>slopes; and hippopotami, crocodiles, and fish + swarm in the water. Gnus are here unknown, and these animals + may live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The + elephants sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap + their big ears just outside the village stockades. One got out + of our way on to a comparatively level spot, and then stood and + roared at us. Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of + man.</p> + + <p>The first village we came to on the banks of the Lake had a + grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm tree was + not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the + fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to carry + it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast. + Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate + the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. The Lake is not large, + from 15 to 20 miles broad, and from 30 to 40 long. It is the + receptacle of four considerable streams, and sends out an arm + two miles broad to the N.N.W., it is said to Tanganyika, and it + may be a branch of that Lake. One of the streams, the Lonzua, + drives a smooth body of water into the Lake fifty yards broad + and ten fathoms deep, bearing on its surface duckweed and + grassy islands. I could see the mouths of other streams, but + got near enough to measure the Lofu only; and at a ford fifty + miles from the confluence it was 100 yards wide and waist deep + in the dry season.</p> + + <p>We remained six weeks on the shores of the Lake, trying to + pick up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into + Ulungu after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an + Englishman had preceded them, naturally inquired where I was. + But our friends, the Bäulungu, suspecting that mischief + was meant, stoutly denied that they had ever seen anything of + the sort; and then became very urgent that I should go on to + one of the inhabited islands for safety. I regret that I + suspected them of intending to <a name="Page_257" id= + "Page_257"></a>make me a prisoner there, which they could + easily have done by removing the canoes; but when the villagers + who deceived the Arabs told me afterwards with an air of + triumph how nicely they had managed, I saw that they had only + been anxious for my safety. On three occasions the same + friendly disposition was shown; and when we went round the west + side of the Lake in order to examine the arm or branch above + referred to, the headman at the confluence of the Lofu + protested so strongly against my going—the Arabs had been + fighting, and I might be mistaken for an Arab, and + killed—that I felt half-inclined to believe him. Two Arab + slaves entered the village the same afternoon in search of + ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered our + course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by + the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that the + head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles further. They had + found ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till + attacked by a chief named, Nsama, whom they beat in his own + stockade. They were now at a loss which way to turn. On + reaching Chitimba's village (lat. 8° 57' 55" S.; long. + 30° 20' E.), I found them about 600 in all; and, on + presenting a letter I had from the Sultan of Zanzibar, was + immediately supplied with provisions, beads, and cloth. They + approved of my plan of passing to the south of Nsama's country, + but advised waiting till the effects of punishment, which the + Bäulungu had resolved to inflict on Nsama for breach of + public law, were known. It had always been understood that + whoever brought goods into the country was to be protected; and + two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son of Kasonso, + our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was anticipated + that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would leave me a + free passage through his country; if to the south, I might be + saved from walking into his hands. But it turned out that Nsama + was anxious for peace. He had <a name="Page_258" id= + "Page_258"></a>sent two men with elephants' tusks to begin a + negotiation; but treachery was suspected, and they were shot + down. Another effort was made with ten goats, and repulsed. + This was much to the regret of the head Arabs. It was fortunate + for me that the Arab goods were not all sold, for Lake Moero + lay in Nsama's country, and without peace no ivory could be + bought, nor could I reach the Lake. The peace-making between + the people and Arabs was, however, a tedious process, occupying + three and a half months—drinking each other's blood. + This, as I saw it west of this in 1854, is not more horrible + than the thirtieth dilution of deadly night-shade or strychnine + is in homoeopathy. I thought that had I been an Arab I could + easily swallow that, but not the next means of cementing the + peace—marrying a black wife. Nsama's daughter was the + bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came riding + pickaback on a man's shoulders: this is the most dignified + conveyance that chiefs and their families can command. She had + ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of provisions, and + all having the same beautiful features as herself. She was + taken by the principal Arab, but soon showed that she preferred + her father to her husband, for seeing preparations made to send + off to purchase ivory, she suspected that her father was to be + attacked, and made her escape. I then, visited Nsama, and, as + he objected to many people coming near him, took only three of + my eight attendants. His people were very much afraid of + fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see if I had any + concealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with head and face + like those sculptured on the Assyrian monuments. He has been a + great conqueror in his time, and with bows and arrows was + invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native traders + from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from his + own stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country. He + was much taken with my hair and woollen <a name="Page_259" id= + "Page_259"></a>clothing; but his people, heedless of his + scolding, so pressed upon us that we could not converse, and, + after promising to send for me to talk during the night, our + interview ended. He promised guides to Moero, and sent us more + provisions than we could carry; but showed so much distrust, + that after all we went without his assistance.</p> + + <p>Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the men + have as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of + Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and feet. + None of the West-coast ugliness, from which most of our ideas + of the Negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous + jaws nor lark-heels offended the sight. My observations + deepened the impression first obtained from the remarks of + Winwood Reade, that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient + Egyptian, and not in the ungainly forms; which grow up in the + unhealthy swamps of the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that + this upland forest region is the true home of the Negro. The + women excited the admiration of the Arabs. They have fine, + small, well-formed features: their great defect is one of + fashion, which does not extend to the next tribe; they file + their teeth to points, the hussies, and that makes their smile + like that of the crocodile.</p> + + <p>Nsama's country is called Itawa, and his principal town is + in lat. 8° 55' S., and long. 29° 21' E. From the large + population he had under him, Itawa is in many parts well + cleared of trees for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu, + being generally about 3000 feet above the sea. Long lines of + tree-covered hills raised some 600 or 700 feet above these + valleys of denudation, prevent the scenery from being + monotonous. Large game is abundant. Elephants, buffaloes, and + zebras grazed in large numbers on the long sloping, banks of a + river called Chiséra, a mile and a half broad. In going + north we crossed this river, or rather marsh, which is full of + papyrus plants and reeds. Our ford was an <a name="Page_260" + id="Page_260"></a>elephant's path; and the roots of the + papyrus, though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore + to feet usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink + and flounder into holes chest deep. The Chiséra forms a + larger marsh west of this, and it gives off its water to the + Kalongosi, a feeder of Lake Moero.</p> + + <p>The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory; + but their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the + tribes which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had + been routed by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before them + but Casembe; and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people + not to allow the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country. + They did not attempt to force their way, but after sending + friendly messages and presents to different chiefs, when these + were not cordially received, turned off in some other + direction, and at last, despairing of more ivory, turned + homewards. From first to last they were extremely kind to me, + and showed all due respect to the Sultan's letter. I am glad + that I was witness to their mode of trading in ivory and + slaves. It formed a complete contrast to the atrocious dealings + of the Kilwa traders, who are supposed to be, but are not, the + subjects of the same Sultan. If one wished to depict the + slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather least + objectionable, form, he would accompany these gentlemen + subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he would describe the + land traffic in its most disgusting phases he would follow the + Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or the Portuguese + half-castes from Tette to the River Shiré.</p> + + <p>Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving + westwards, our small party reached the north end of Moero on + the 8th November last. There the Lake is a goodly piece of + water twelve or more miles broad, and flanked on the east and + west by ranges of lofty tree-covered mountains. <a name= + "Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>The range on the west is the + highest, and is part of the country called Rua-Moero; it gives + off a river at its north-west end called Lualaba, and receives + the River Kalongosi (pronounced by the Arabs Karungwesi) on the + east near its middle, and the rivers Luapula and Rovukwé + at its southern extremity. The point of most interest in Lake + Moero is that it forms one of a chain of lakes, connected by a + river some 500 miles in length. First of all the + Chambezé rises in the country of Mambwé, N.E. of + Molemba. It then flows south-west and west till it reaches lat. + 11° S., and long. 29° E., where it forms Lake Bemba or + Bangweolo, emerging thence it assumes the new name Luapula, and + comes down here to fall into Moero. On going out of this Lake + it is known by the name Lualaba, as it flows N.W. in Rua to + form another Lake with many islands called Urengé or + Ulengé. Beyond this, information is not positive as to + whether it enters Tanganyika or another Lake beyond that. When + I crossed the Chambezé, the similarity of names led me + to imagine that this was a branch of the Zambesi. The natives + said, "No. This goes south-west, and forms a very large water + there." But I had become prepossessed with the idea that Lake + Liemba was that Bemba of which I had heard in 1863, and we had + been so starved in the south that I gladly set my face north. + The river-like prolongation of Liemba might go to Moero, and + where I could not follow the arm of Liemba. Then I worked my + way to this Lake. Since coming to Casembe's the testimony of + natives and Arabs has been so united and consistent, that I am + but ten days from Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo, that I cannot doubt + its accuracy. I am so tired of exploration without a word from + home or anywhere else for two years, that I must go to Ujiji on + Tanganyika for letters before doing anything else. The banks + and country adjacent to Lake Bangweolo are reported to be now + very muddy and very unhealthy. I have no medicine. The + inhabitants suffer greatly from <a name="Page_262" id= + "Page_262"></a>swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and + elephantiasis, and this is the rainy season and very unsafe for + me.</p> + + <p>When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that + it was thought well to ascertain the length of the Lake, and + see Casembe too. We came up between the double range that + flanks the east of the Lake; but mountains and plains are so + covered with well-grown forest that we could seldom see it. We + reached Casembe's town on the 28th November. It stands near the + north end of the Lakelet Mofwé; this is from one to + three miles broad, and some six or seven long: it is full of + sedgy islands, and abounds in fish. The country is quite level, + but fifteen or twenty miles west of Mofwé we see a long + range of the mountains of Rua. Between this range and + Mofwé the Luapula flows past into Moero, the Lake called + Moero okata = the great Moero, being about fifty miles long. + The town of Casembe covers a mile square of cassava + plantations, the huts being dotted over that space. Some have + square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been made at + arrangement: it might be called a rural village rather than a + town. No estimate could be formed by counting the huts, they + were so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava; but my + impression from other collections of huts was that the + population was under a thousand souls. The court or compound of + Casembe—some would call it a palace—is a square + enclosure of 300 yards by 200 yards. It is surrounded by a + hedge of high reeds. Inside, where Casembe honoured me with a + grand reception, stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score + of small huts for domestics. The Queen's hut stands behind that + of the chief, with a number of small huts also. Most of the + enclosed space is covered with a plantation of cassava, + <i>Curcus purgaris</i>, and cotton. Casembe sat before his hut + on a equate seat placed on lion and leopard skins. He was + clothed in a coarse blue and white Manchester print edged + <a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a>with red baize, and + arranged in large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on + wrong side foremost. His arms, legs and head were covered with + sleeves, leggings and cap made of various coloured beads in + neat patterns: a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap. + Each of his headmen came forward, shaded by a huge, ill-made + umbrella, and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to + Casembe, and sat down on his right and left: various bands of + musicians did the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and + an old counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as + full an account as he had been able to gather during our stay + of the English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My + having passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe, and visited + chiefs of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most + attention. He then assured me that I was welcome to his + country, to go where I liked, and do what I chose. We then went + (two boys carrying his train behind him) to an inner apartment, + where the articles of my present were exhibited in detail. He + had examined them privately before, and we knew that he was + satisfied. They consisted of eight yards of orange-coloured + serge, a large striped tablecloth; another large cloth made at + Manchester in imitation of West Coast native manufacture, which + never fails to excite the admiration of Arabs and natives, and + a large richly gilded comb for the back hair, such as ladies + wore fifty years ago: this was given to me by a friend at + Liverpool, and as Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair + into large knobs behind, I was sure that this article would + tickle the fancy. Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again + bade me welcome.</p> + + <p>I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from + selling his people as slaves. He listened awhile, then broke + off into a tirade on the greatness of his country, his power + and dominion, which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been here + <a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a>for ten years, turned into + ridicule, and made the audience laugh by telling how other + Lunda chiefs had given me oxen and sheep, while Casembe had + only a poor little goat and some fish to bestow. He insisted + also that there were but two sovereigns in the world, the + Sultan of Zanzibar and Victoria. When we went on a third + occasion to bid Casembe farewell, he was much less distant, and + gave me the impression that I could soon become friends with + him; but he has an ungainly look, and an outward squint in each + eye. A number of human skulls adorned the entrance to his + courtyard; and great numbers of his principal men having their + ears cropped, and some with their hands lopped off, showed his + barbarous way of making his ministers attentive and honest. I + could not avoid indulging a prejudice against him.</p> + + <p>The Portuguese visited Casembe long ago; but as each new + Casembe builds a new town, it is not easy to fix on the exact + spot to which strangers came. The last seven Casembes have had + their towns within seven miles of the present one. Dr. Lacerda, + Governor of Tette, on the Zambesi, was the only visitor of + scientific attainments, and he died at the rivulet called + Chungu, three or four miles from this. The spot is called + Nshinda, or Inchinda, which the Portuguese wrote Lucenda or + Ucenda. The latitude given is nearly fifty miles wrong, but the + natives say that he lived only ten days after his arrival, and + if, as is probable, his mind was clouded with fever when he + last observed, those who have experienced what that is will + readily excuse any mistake he may have made. His object was to + accomplish a much-desired project of the Portuguese to have an + overland communication between their eastern and western + possessions. This was never made by any of the Portuguese + nation; but two black traders succeeded partially with a part + of the distance, crossing once from Cassangé, in Angola, + to Tette on the Zambesi, and returning with a <a name= + "Page_265" id="Page_265"></a>letter from the Governor of + Mosambique. It is remarkable that this journey, which was less + by a thousand miles than from sea to sea and back again, should + have for ever quenched all white Portuguese aspirations for an + overland route.</p> + + <p>The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to + have varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first + visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 20,000 + trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed + twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of human + sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present Casembe + could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When he + usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled; + but he was so severe in his punishments—cropping the + ears, lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling the + children for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually + dispersed themselves in the neighbouring countries beyond his + power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured in + parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The + present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed + elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of + the ivory with his subordinates. The elephant hunters have + either left him or neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to + sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major + Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to + have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other + of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much + by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that + Casembe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west of + this the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into + large bars shaped like the capital letter I. They may be met + with of from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs., weight all over the country, + and the inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and + leglets. Gold is <a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a>also + found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent to the Sultan + of Zanzibar.</p> + + <p>As we come down from the watershed towards Tanganyika we + enter an area of the earth's surface still disturbed by + internal igneous action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama + is often used to boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are by no + means rare. We experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's + village, and they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if + afloat, and as huts would not fall there was no sense of + danger; some of them that happened at night set the fowls a + cackling. The most remarkable effect of this one was that it + changed the rates of the chronometers; no rain fell after it. + No one had access to the chronometers but myself, and, as I + never heard of this effect before, I may mention that one which + lost with great regularity 1.5 sec. daily, lost 15 sec.; + another; whose rate since leaving the coast was 15 sec., lost + 40 sec.; and a third, which gained 6 sec. daily, stopped + altogether. Some of Nsama's people ascribed the earthquakes to + the hot fountain, because it showed unusual commotion on these + occasions; another hot fountain exists near Tanganyika than + Nsama's, and we passed one on the shores of Moero.</p> + + <p>We could not understand why the natives called Moero much + larger than Tanganyika till we saw both. The greater Lake lies + in a comparatively narrow trough, with highland on each side, + which is always visible; but when we look at Moero, to the + south of the mountains of Rua on the west, we have nothing but + an apparently boundless sea horizon. The Luapula and + Rovukwé form a marsh at the southern extremity, and + Casembe dissuaded me from entering it, but sent a man to guide + me to different points of Moero further down. From the heights + at which the southern portions were seen, it must be from forty + to sixty miles broad. From the south end of the mountains of + Rua (9° 4' south lat.) it is thirty-three miles broad. No + native <a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a>ever attempts to + cross it even there. Its fisheries are of great value to the + inhabitants, and the produce is carried to great distances.</p> + + <p>Among the vegetable products of this region, that which + interested me most was a sort of potato. It does not belong to + the solanaceous, but to the papilionaceous or pea family, and + its flowers have a delightful fragrance. It is easily + propagated by small cuttings of the root or stalk. The tuber is + oblong, like our kidney potato, and when boiled tastes exactly + like our common potato. When unripe it has a slight degree of + bitterness, and it is believed to be wholesome; a piece of the + root eaten raw is a good remedy in nausea. It is met with on + the uplands alone, and seems incapable of bearing much heat, + though I kept some of the roots without earth in a box, which + was carried in the sun almost daily for six months, without + destroying their vegetative power.</p> + + <p>It is remarkable that in all the central regions of Africa + visited, the cotton is that known as the Pernambuco variety. It + has a long strong staple, seeds clustered together, and + adherent to each other. The bushes eight or ten feet high have + woody stems, and the people make strong striped black and white + shawls of the cotton.</p> + + <p>It was pleasant to meet the palm-oil palm (<i>Elais + Guineaensis</i>) at Casembe's, which is over 3000 feet above + the level of the sea. The oil is sold cheap, but no tradition + exists of its introduction into the country.</p> + + <p>I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet + passed over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of + the whole watershed of this region, and I regret that I cannot + recommend any of the published maps I have seen as giving even + a tolerable idea of the country. One bold constructor of maps + has tacked on 200 miles to the north-west end of Lake Nyassa, a + feat which no traveller has ever ventured to imitate. Another + has placed a river in the <a name="Page_268" id= + "Page_268"></a>same quarter running 3000 or 4000 feet up hill, + and named it the "NEW ZAMBESI," because I suppose the old + Zambesi runs down hill. I have walked over both these mental + abortions, and did not know that I was walking on water till I + saw them in the maps.</p> + </div> + + <p>[The despatch breaks off at this point. The year concludes + with health impaired. As time goes on we shall see how ominous + the conviction was which made him dread the swamps of + Bangweolo.]</p> + + <p><i>28-31st December, 1867.</i>—We came on to the rivulet + Chirongo, and then to the Kabukwa, where I was taken ill. Heavy + rains kept the convoy back. I have had nothing but + coarsely-ground sorghum meal for some time back, and am weak; I + used to be the first in the line of march, and am now the last; + Mohamad presented a meal of finely-ground porridge and a fowl, + and I immediately felt the difference, though I was not grumbling + at my coarse dishes. It is well that I did not go to Bangweolo + Lake, for it is now very unhealthy to the natives, and I fear + that without medicine continual wettings by fording rivulets + might have knocked me up altogether. As I have mentioned, the + people suffer greatly from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire + neck and Elephantiasis scroti.</p> + + <p><i>1st January, 1868.</i>—Almighty Father, forgive the + sins of the past year for Thy Son's sake. Help me to be more + profitable during this year. If I am to die this year prepare me + for it.</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p>I bought five hoes at two or three yards of calico each: they + are 13-1/2 inches by 6-1/2 inches; many are made in Casembe's + country, and this is the last place we can find them: when we + come into Buiré we can purchase a good goat for one; one + of my goats died and the other dried up. <a name="Page_269" id= + "Page_269"></a>I long for others, for milk is the most + strengthening food I can get.</p> + + <p>My guide to Moero came to-day, and I visited the Lake several + times, so as to get a good idea of its size. The first fifteen + miles in the north are from twelve or more to thirty-three miles + broad. The great mass of the Rua Mountains confines it. Thus in a + clear day a lower range is seen continued from the high point of + the first mass away to the west south-west, this ends, and sea + horizon is alone visible away to the south and west; from the + height we viewed it at, the width must be over forty, perhaps + sixty miles. A large island, called Kirwa,<a name= + "FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> is situated between + the Mandapala and Kabukwa Rivers, but nearest to the other shore. + The natives never attempt to cross any part of the Lake south of + this Kirwa. Land could not be seen with a good glass on the + clearest day we had. I can understand why the natives pronounced + Moero to be larger than Tanganyika: in the last named they see + the land always on both sides; it is like a vast trough flanked + with highlands, but at Moero nothing but sea horizon can be seen + when one looks south-west of the Rua Mountains.</p> + + <p>At the Kalongosi meadow one of Mohamad's men shot a buffalo, + and he gave me a leg of the good beefy flesh. Our course was + slow, caused partly by rains, and partly by waiting for the + convoy. The people at Kalongosi were afraid to ferry us or any of + his people in the convoy out of Casembe's country; but at last we + gave a good fee, and their scruples yielded: they were influenced + also by seeing other villagers ready to undertake the job; the + latter nearly fought over us on seeing that their neighbours got + all the fare.</p> + + <p>We then came along the Lake, and close to its shores. <a name= + "Page_270" id="Page_270"></a>The moisture caused a profusion of + gingers, ferns, and tropical forest: buffaloes, zebras and + elephants are numerous, and the villagers at Chukosi's, where we + slept, warned us against lions and leopards.</p> + + <p><i>12th January, 1868.</i>—Sunday at Karembwé's + village. The mountains east of him are called Makunga. We went + yesterday to the shore, and by protraction Rua point was distant + thirty-three miles. Karembwé sent for us, to have an + audience; he is a large man with a gruff voice, but liked by his + people and by strangers. I gave him a cloth, and he gave me a + goat. The enthusiasm with which I held on to visit Moero had + communicated itself to Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alle, for they + followed me up to this place to see the Lake, and remained five + days while we were at Casembe's. Other Arabs, or rather Suahelis, + must have seen it, but never mentioned it as anything worth + looking at; and it was only when all hope of ivory was gone that + these two headmen found time to come. There is a large population + here.</p> + + <p><i>13th January, 1868.</i>—Heavy rains. Karembé + mentioned a natural curiosity as likely to interest me: a little + rivulet, Chipamba, goes some distance underground, but is + uninteresting.</p> + + <p>Next day we crossed the Vuna, a strong torrent, which, has a + hot fountain close by the ford, in which maize and cassava may be + boiled. A large one in Nsama's country is used in the same way, + maize and cassava being tied to a string and thrown in to be + cooked: some natives believe that earthquakes are connected with + its violent ebullitions. We crossed the Katétté, + another strong torrent, before reaching the north end of Moero, + where we slept in some travellers' huts.</p> + + <p>Leaving the Lake, and going north, we soon got on to a plain + flooded by the Luao. We had to wade through very adhesive black + mud, generally ankle deep, and having <a name="Page_271" id= + "Page_271"></a>many holes in it much deeper: we had four hours of + this, and then came to the ford of the Luao itself. We waded up a + branch of it waist deep for at least a quarter of a mile, then + crossed a narrow part by means of a rude bridge of branches and + trees, of about forty yards width. The Luao, in spreading over + the plains, confers benefits on the inhabitants, though I could + not help concluding it imparts disease too, for the black mud in + places smells horribly. Great numbers of Siluridae, chiefly + <i>Clarias Capensis</i>, often three feet in length, spread over + the flooded portions of the country, eating the young of other + fishes, and insects, lizards, and worms, killed by the waters. + The people make weirs for them, and as the waters retire kill + large numbers, which they use as a relish to their farinaceous + food.</p> + + <p><i>16th January, 1868.</i>—After sleeping near the Luao + we went on towards the village, in which Mohamad's son lives. It + is on the Kakoma Eiver, and is called Kabwabwata, the village of + Mubao. In many of the villages the people shut their stockades as + soon as we appear, and stand bows and arrows in hand till we have + passed: the reason seems to be that the slaves when out of sight + of their masters carry things with a high hand, demanding food + and other things as if they had power and authority. One slave + stole two tobacco pipes yesterday in passing through a village; + the villagers complained to me when I came up, and I waited till + Mohamad came and told him; we then went forward, the men keeping + close to me till we got the slave and the pipes. They stole + cassava as we went along, but this could scarcely be prevented. + They laid hold of a plant an inch-and-a-half thick, and tore it + out of the soft soil with its five or six roots as large as our + largest carrots, stowed the roots away in their loads, and went + on eating them; but the stalk thrown among those still growing + shows the theft. The raw roots are agreeable and nutritious. No + great harm <a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a>is done by this, + for the gardens are so large, but it inspires distrust in the + inhabitants, and makes it dangerous for Arabs to travel not fully + manned and armed.</p> + + <p>On reaching the village Kabwabwata a great demonstration was + made by Mohamad's Arab dependants and Wanyamwesi: the women had + their faces all smeared with pipeclay, and lullilooed with all + their might. When we came among the huts, they cast handfuls of + soil on their heads, while the men fired off their guns as fast + as they could load them. Those connected with Mohamad ran and + kissed his hands, and fired, till the sound of shouting, + lullilooing, clapping of hands, and shooting was deafening: + Mohamad was quite overcome by this demonstration, and it was long + before he could still them.</p> + + <p>On the way to this village from the south we observed an + extensive breadth of land, under ground-nuts which are made into + oil: a large jar of this is sold for a hoe. The ground-nuts were + now in flower, and green maize ready to be eaten. People all busy + planting, transplanting, or weeding; they plant cassava on mounds + prepared for it, on which they have sown beans, sorghum, maize, + pumpkins: these ripen, and leave the cassava a free soil. The + sorghum or dura is sown thickly, and when about a foot + high—if the owner has been able to prepare the soil + elsewhere—it is transplanted, a portion of the leaves being + cut off to prevent too great evaporation and the death of the + plant.</p> + + <p><i>17th January, 1868.</i>—The Wanyamwesi and people of + Garaganza say that we have thirteen days' march from this to the + Tanganyika Lake. It is often muddy, and many rivulets are to be + crossed.</p> + + <p>Mohamad is naturally anxious to stay a little while with his + son, for it is a wet season, and the mud is disagreeable to + travel over: it is said to be worse near Ujiji: he cooks small + delicacies for me with the little he has, and tries to make me + comfortable. Vinegar is made from bananas, and <a name="Page_273" + id="Page_273"></a>oil from ground-nuts. I am anxious to be off, + but chiefly to get news.</p> + + <p>I find that many Unyamwesi people are waiting here, on account + of the great quantity of rainwater in front: it would be + difficult, they say, to get canoes on Tanganyika, as the waves + are now large.</p> + + <p><i>24th January, 1868.</i>—Two of Mohamad Bogharib's + people came from Casembe's to trade here, and a body of Syde bin + Habib's people also from Garaganza, near Kazé, they report + the flooded lands on this side of Lake Tanganyika as waist and + chest deep. Bin Habib, being at Katanga, will not stir till the + rains are over, and I fear we are storm-stayed till then too. The + feeders of the Marungu are not fordable just now, and no canoes + are to be had.</p> + + <p><i>26th and 27th January, 1868.</i>—I am ill with fever, + as I always am when stationary.</p> + + <p><i>28th January, 1868.</i>—Better, and thankful to Him + of the Greatest Name. We must remain; it is a dry spot, and + favourable for ground-nuts. <i>Hooping-cough</i> here.</p> + + <p><i>30th January, 1868.</i>—The earth cooled by the rain + last night sets all to transplanting dura or sorghum; they cut + the leaves till only about eighteen inches of them are left, but + it grows all the better for the change of place.</p> + + <p>Mohamad believes that Tanganyika flows through Rusizi to + Lohindé. (Chuambo.)</p> + + <p>Seyd Seyd is said to have been the first Arab Sultan who + traded, and Seyed Majid follows the example of his father, and + has many Arab traders in his employment. He lately sent eight + buffaloes to Mtéza, king of Uganda, son of Sunna, by way + of increasing his trade, but if is not likely that he will give + up the lucrative trade in ivory and slaves.</p> + + <p>Susi bought a hoe with a little gunpowder, then a cylinder of + dura, three feet long by two feet in diameter, for the hoe: it is + at least one hundredweight.</p> + + <p>Stone underground houses are reported in Rua, but whether + <a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a>natural or artificial + Mohamad could not say. If a present is made to the Rua chiefs + they never obstruct passengers.</p> + + <p>Chikosi, at whose village we passed a night, near Kalongosi, + and Chiputa are both dead.</p> + + <p>The Mofwé fills during the greater rains, and spreads + over a large district; elephants then wander in its marshes, and + are killed easily by people in canoes: this happens every year, + and Mohamad Bogharib waits now for this ivory.</p> + + <p><i>7th to 21st February, 1868.</i>—On inquiring of men + who lave seen the underground houses in Rua, I find that they are + very extensive, ranging along mountain sides for twenty miles, + and in one part a rivulet flows inside. In some cases the + doorways are level with the country adjacent: in others, ladders + are used to climb up to them; inside they are said to be very + large, and not the work of men, but of God. The people have + plenty of fowls, and they too obtain shelter in these Troglodyte + habitations.</p> + + <p><i>23rd February, 1868.</i>—I was visited by an + important chief called Chapé, who said that he wanted to + make friends with the English. He, Chisapi, Sama, Muabo, + Karembwé, are of one tribe or family, the Oanza: he did + not beg anything, and promised to send me a goat.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> Kirwa + and its various corruptions, such as Shirwa, Chirua, and + Kiroa, perpetually recur in Africa, and would almost seem to + stand for "the island."—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><a name="Page_275" + id="Page_275"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long + imprisonment. Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning + dreams. News of Lake Chowambé. Life of the Arab slavers. + The Katanga gold supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. + Syde bin Habib. Birthday 19th March, 1868. Hostility of + Mpwéto. Contemplates visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. + Men desert. The shores of Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Beturn to + Casembe's. Obstructiveness of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of + Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major Monteiro. The line of Casembe's. + Casembe explains the connection of the Lakes and the Luapula. + Queen Moäri. Arab sacrifice. Kapika gets rid of his + wife.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>24th February, 1868.</i>—Some slaves who came with + Mohamad Bogharib's agent, abused my men this morning, as bringing + unclean meat into the village to sell, though it had been killed + by a man of the Wanyamwesi. They called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!" + and Susi, roused by this, launched forth with a stick; the others + joined in the row, and the offenders were beat off, but they went + and collected all their number and renewed the assault. One threw + a heavy block of wood and struck Simon on the head, making him + quite insensible and convulsed for some time. He has three wounds + on the head, which may prove serious. This is the first outburst + of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and by those who know so little + of the creed that it is questionable if one of them can repeat + the formula: "La illaha illa lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu, a + leihi oa Salama." Simon recovered, but Gallahs are in general not + strong.</p> + + <p><i>25th February, 1868.</i>—Mohamad called on me this + morning to apologise for the outrage of yesterday, but no one was + <a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>to blame except the slaves, + and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were cautioned for + the future. It seems, plain that if they do not wish to buy the + unclean meat they can let it alone,—no harm is done. The + Wanyamwesi kill for all, and some Mohamadans say that they won't + eat of it, but their wives and people do eat it privately.</p> + + <p>I asked Mohamad to-day if it were true that he was a prisoner + at Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some Garaganza people, now + at Katanga, fought with Casembe, and Mohamad was suspected of + being connected with them. Casembe attacked his people, and + during the turmoil a hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from + him, and many of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner + till sixty of his people were either killed or died, among these + Mohamad's eldest son: he was thus reduced to poverty. He gave + something to Casembe to allow him to depart, and I suspect that + my Sultan's letter had considerable influence in inducing Casembe + to accede to his request, for he repeated again and again in my + hearing that he must pay respect to my letter, and see me safe at + least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad says that he will not return to + Casembe again, but will begin to trade with some other chief: it + is rather hard for a man at his age to begin <i>de novo</i>. He + is respected among the Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good man. + He says that he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never + saw an outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi: it + is, however, common for the people at Ujiji to drink palm toddy, + and then have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad feeling + exists next day.</p> + + <p>If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is + killed, as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. When I + was amongst the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekelétu's wives + would not allow her servant's child to be killed for this, but + few would have the courage to act in opposition to public feeling + as she did. In Casembe's country if a child <a name="Page_277" + id="Page_277"></a>is seen to turn from one side to the other in + sleep it is killed. They say of any child who has what they + consider these defects "he is an Arab child," because the Arabs + have none of this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be + near they give the child to him: it would bring ill-luck, + misfortunes, "milando," or guilt, to the family. These + superstitions may account for the readiness with which one tribe + parted with their children to Speke's followers. Mohamad says + that these children must have been taken in war, as none sell + their own offspring.</p> + + <p>If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he puts the + man to death, as one who is practising secret arts against his + life: if any one is pounding or cooking food for him he must + preserve the strictest silence; these and other things show + extreme superstition and degradation.</p> + + <p>During, his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised him + to leave Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their men, + but he always refused. His father was the first to open this + country to trade with the Arabs, and all his expenses while so + doing were borne by himself; but Mohamad seems to be a man of + peace, and unwilling to break the appearance of friendship with + the chiefs. He thinks that this Casembe poisoned his predecessor: + he certainly killed his wife's mother, a queen, that she might be + no obstacle to him in securing her daughter.</p> + + <p>We are waiting in company with a number of Wanyamwesi for the + cessation of the rains, which have flooded the country between + this and Tanganyika. If there were much slope this water would + flow off: this makes me suspect that Tanganyika is not so low as + Speke's measurement. The Arabs are positive that water flows from + that Lake to the Victoria Nyanza, and assert that Dagara, the + father of Rumanyika, was anxious to send canoes from his place to + Ujiji, or, as some say, to dig a canal to Ujiji. The Wanyamwesi + here support themselves by shooting buffaloes, at <a name= + "Page_278" id="Page_278"></a>a place two days distant, and + selling the meat for grain and cassava: no sooner is it known + that an animal is killed, than the village women crowd in here, + carrying their produce to exchange it for meat, which they prefer + to beads or anything else. Their farinaceous food creates a great + craving for flesh: were my shoes not done I would go in for + buffaloes too.</p> + + <p>A man from the upper part of Tanganyika gives the same account + of the river from Rusisi that Burton and Speke received when they + went to its mouth. He says that the water of the Lake goes up + some distance, but is met by Rusisi water, and driven back + thereby. The Lake water, he adds, finds an exit northwards and + eastwards by several small rivers which would admit small canoes + only. They pour into Lake Chowambé—probably that + discovered by Mr. Baker. This Chowambé is in Hundi, the + country of cannibals, but the most enlightened informants leave + the impression on the mind of groping in the dark: it may be all + different when we come to see it.</p> + + <p>The fruit of the palm, which yields palm-oil, is first of all + boiled, then pounded in a mortar, then put into hot or boiling + water, and the oil skimmed off. The palm-oil is said to be very + abundant at Ujiji, as much as 300 gallons being often brought + into the bazaar for sale in one morning; the people buy it + eagerly for cooking purposes. Mohamad says that the Island of + Pemba, near Zanzibar, contains many of these palms, but the + people are ignorant of the mode of separating the oil from the + nut: they call the palm Nkoma at Casembe's, and Chikichi at + Zanzibar.<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id= + "FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class= + "fnanchor">[60]</a></p> + + <p>No better authority for what has been done or left undone by + Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad bin Saleh, + for he is very intelligent, and takes <a name="Page_279" id= + "Page_279"></a>an interest in all that happens, and his father + was equally interested in this country's affairs. He declares + that no attempt was ever made by Mohamadans to proselytize the + Africans: they teach their own children to read the Koran, but + them only; it is never translated, and to servants who go to the + Mosque it is all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan + bigotry about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to + make <i>halel</i>, or fit to slaughter the animals for their + master, is the utmost advance any have made. As the Arabs in East + Africa never feel themselves called on to propagate the doctrines + of Islam, among the heathen Africans, the statement of Captain + Burton that they would make better missionaries to the Africans + than Christians, because they would not insist on the abandonment + of polygamy, possesses the same force as if he had said + Mohamadans would catch more birds than Christians, because they + would put salt on their tails. The indispensable requisite or + qualification for any kind of missionary is that he have some + wish to proselytize: this the Arabs do not possess in the + slightest degree.</p> + + <p>As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best means + of influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to understand + what they are about. When we were teaching adults the alphabet, + they felt it a hard task. "Give me medicine, I shall drink it to + make me understand it," was their earnest entreaty. When they + have advanced so far as to form clear conceptions of Old + Testament and Gospel histories, they tell them to their + neighbours; and, on visiting distant tribes, feel proud to show + how much they know: in this way the knowledge of Christianity + becomes widely diffused. Those whose hatred to its self-denying + doctrines has become developed by knowledge, propagate slanders; + but still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention. The + plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting + knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem <a name= + "Page_280" id="Page_280"></a>in dealing with dumb show. I have, + however, been astonished to see that none of the Africans imitate + the Arab prayers: considering their great reverence of the Deity, + it is a wonder that they do not learn to address prayers to Him + except on very extraordinary occasions.</p> + + <p>My remarks referring to the education by Mohamadans do not + refer to the Suahelis, for they teach their children to read, and + even send them to school. They are the descendants of Arab and + African women and inhabit the coast line. Although they read, + they understand very little Arabic beyond the few words which + have been incorporated into Suaheli. The establishment of Moslem + missions among the heathen is utterly unknown, and this is + remarkable, because the Wanyamwesi, for instance, are very + friendly with the Arabs—are great traders, too, like them, + and are constantly employed as porters and native traders, being + considered very trustworthy. They even acknowledge Seyed Majid's + authority. The Arabs speak of all the Africans as <i>"Gumu</i>" + that is hard or callous to the Mohamadan religion.</p> + + <p>Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as in + Egypt, and that Moses visited it of old.</p> + + <p>Mungo Park mentions that he found the Africans in the far + interior of the west in possession of the stories of Joseph and + his brethren, and others. They probably got them from the Koran, + as verbally explained by some liberal Mullah, and showed how + naturally they spread any new ideas they obtained: they were + astonished to find that Park knew the stories.</p> + + <p>The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for the gold in their + country because they believe that it has been hidden where it is + by "Ngolu," who is the owner of it. The Arabs translate Ngolu by + Satan: it means Mézimo, or departed spirits, too. The + people are all oppressed by their superstitions; the fear of + death is remarkably strong. The <a name="Page_281" id= + "Page_281"></a>Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were + killed, death would visit the village; this too is the case with + the small Whydah birds, the fear of death in the minds of the + people saves them from molestation. But why should we be so prone + to criticise? A remnant of our own superstitions is seen in the + prejudice against sitting down thirteen to dinner, spilling the + salt, and not throwing a little of it over the left shoulder. + Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in passing through the streets, + perpetually put one hand into his pockets to cross the thumb over + the finger in order to avert the influence of the evil eye!</p> + + <p>On the 6th, Muabo, the great chief of these parts, came to + call on Mohamad: several men got up and made some antics before + him, then knelt down and did obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped + about a little, and all applauded. He is a good-natured-looking + man, fond of a joke, and always ready with a good-humoured smile: + he was praised very highly, Mpwéto was nothing to Muabo + mokolu, the great Muabo; and he returned the praise by lauding + Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native name, which means, "Give + me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few of the ungainly antics + like the natives, and all were highly pleased, and went off + rejoicing.</p> + + <p>Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands in the + Nyanza Lake has the power of speaking, and is the same that + beguiled Eve. It is a crime at Ujiji to kill a serpent, even + though it enters a house and kills a kid! The native name, for + the people of Ujiji is Wayeiyé, the very same as the + people on the Zouga, near Lake Ngami. They are probably an + offshoot from Ujiji.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id= + "FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class= + "fnanchor">[61]</a></p> + + <p>There are underground stone houses in Kabiuré, in the + range called Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention. + <a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a><i>15th March, + 1868.</i>—The roots of the Nyumbo or Noombo open in four or + five months from the time of planting, those planted by me on the + 6th February have now stalks fifteen inches long. The root is + reported to be a very wholesome food, never disagreeing with the + stomach; and the raw root is an excellent remedy in obstinate + vomiting and nausea; four or five tubers are often given by one + root, in Marungu they attain a size of six inches in length by + two in diameter.</p> + + <p><i>16th March, 1868.</i>—We started for Mpwéto's + village, which is situated on the Lualaba, and in our course + crossed the Lokinda, which had a hundred yards of flood water on + each side of it. The river itself is forty yards wide, with a + rude bridge over it, as it flows fast away into Moero.</p> + + <p>Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached the + village of Mpwéto, situated in a valley between two + ridges, about one mile from the right bank of the Lualaba, where + it comes through the mountains. It then flows about two miles + along the base of a mountain lying east and west before it begins + to make northing: its course is reported to be very winding, this + seems additional evidence that Tanganyika is not in a depression + of only 1844 feet above the sea, otherwise the water of Lualaba + would flow faster and make a straighter channel. It is said to + flow into the Lufira, and that into Tanganyika.</p> + + <p><i>18th March, 1868.</i>—On reaching Mpwéto's + yesterday we were taken up to the house of Syde bin Habib, which + is built on a ridge overhanging the chiefs village, a square + building of wattle and plaster, and a mud roof to prevent it + being fired by an enemy. It is a very pretty spot among the + mountains. Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a basket + of flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpwéto, which + he politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his + village, but if we waited two days he would have some prepared, + and would then see us. He knew what we should give him, and he + need not tell us <a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a>I met a man + from Seskéké, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and + now with him here.</p> + + <p>A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in + every way, and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very + Venus in black. The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the + West Coast is common in Rua, and tamed by the natives.<a name= + "FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a></p> + + <p><i>19th March, 1868.</i><a name="FNanchor_63_63" id= + "FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class= + "fnanchor">[63]</a>—(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more + and serve Thee better.)</p> + + <p>The favourite son of Mpwéto called on us; his father is + said to do nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to + be endowed with much wisdom.</p> + + <p><i>20th and 21st March, 1868.</i>—Our interview was put + off; and then a sight of the cloth we were to give was required. + I sent a good large cloth, and explained that we were nearly out + of goods now, having been travelling two years, and were going to + Ujiji to get more. Mpwéto had prepared a quantity of + pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when he looked at them + and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a poor bargain, + so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given him many + cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another cloth he + would not see me. "He had never slept with only one cloth." "I + had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away."</p> + + <p>It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival, + Muabo, before visiting him. He would not see Syde bin Habib for + eight days; and during that time was using charms to try if it + would be safe to see him at all: on the ninth day he peeped past + a door for some time to see if Bin Habib were a proper person, + and then came out: he is always very suspicious.</p> + + <p>At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did + n<a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a>ot move, he would come with + all his people and drive us off. Sariamo said if he were not + afraid for Syde bin Habib's goods, he would make a stand against + Mpwéto; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a + worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (<i>24th + March.</i>) He abused a native trader with his tongue for coming + to trade, and sent him away too. We slept again at our half-way + village, Kapemba, just as a party of salt-traders from Rua came + into it: they were tall, well-made men, and rather dark.</p> + + <p><i>25th March, 1868.</i>—Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and + were welcomed by Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But, + accompanied us; but Mohamad told us previously that it was likely + Mpwéto would refuse to see us.</p> + + <p>The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is + impossible to go north: the Wanyamwesi, who are detained here as + well as we, say it is often more than a man's depth, and there + are no canoes. They would not stop here if a passage home could + be made. I am thinking of going to Lake Bemba, because at least + two months must be passed here still before a passage can be + made; but my goods are getting done, and I cannot give presents + to the chiefs on our way.</p> + + <p>This Lake has a sandy, not muddy bottom, as we were at first + informed, and there are four islands in it, one, the Bangweolo, + is very large, and many people live on it; they have goats and + sheep in abundance: the owners of canoes demand three hoes for + the hire of one capable of carrying eight or ten persons; beyond + this island it is sea horizon only. The tsébula and + nzoé antelopes abound. The people desire salt and not + beads for sale.</p> + + <p><i>2nd April, 1868.</i>—If I am not deceived by the + information I have received from various reliable sources, the + springs of the Nile rise between 9° and 10° south + latitude, or at least 400 or 500 miles south of the south end of + Speke's Lake, which he considered to be the sources of the Nile. + <a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a>Tanganyika is declared to + send its water through north into Lake Chowambé or Baker's + Lake; if this does not prove false, then Tanganyika is an + expansion of the Nile, and so is Lake Chowambé; the two + Lakes being connected by the River Loanda. Unfortunately the + people on the east side of the Loanda are constantly at war with + the people on the west of it, or those of Rusisi. The Arabs have + been talking of opening up a path through to Chowambé, + where much ivory is reported; I hope that the Most High may give + me a way there.</p> + + <p><i>11th April, 1868.</i>—I had a long oration from + Mohamad yesterday against going off for Bemba to-morrow. His + great argument is the extortionate way of Casembe, who would + demand cloth, and say that in pretending to go to Ujiji I had + told him lies: he adds to this argument that this is the last + month of the rains; the Masika has begun, and our way north will + soon be open. The fact of the matter is that Mohamad, by not + telling me of the superabundance of water in the country of the + Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose five months. + He knew that we should be detained here, but he was so eager to + get out of his state of durance with Casembe that he hastened my + departure by asserting that we should be at Ujiji in one month. I + regret this deception, but it is not to be wondered at, and in a + Mohamadan and in a Christian too it is thought clever. Were my + goods not nearly done I would go, and risk the displeasure of + Casembe for the chance of discovering the Lake Bemba. I thought + once of buying from Mohamad Bogharib, but am afraid that his + stock may be getting low too: I fear that I must give up this + Lake for the present.</p> + + <p><i>12th April, 1868.</i>—I think of starting to-morrow + for Bangweolo, even if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him: we + shall be better there than we are here, for everything at + Kabwabwata is scarce and dear. There we can get a fowl for one + string <a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a>of beads, here it + costs six: there fish may be bought, here none. Three of + Casembe's principal men are here, Kakwata, Charley, and + Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and would be a gain to + me, but Mohamad detains them, and when I ask his reason he says + "Muabo refuses," but they point to Mohamad's house and say, "It + is he who refuses."</p> + + <p>[A very serious desertion took place at this time amongst Dr. + Livingstone's followers. Not to judge them too harshly they had + become to a great extent demoralised by camp life with Mohamad + and his horde of slaves and slavers. The Arab tried all he could + to dissuade the traveller from proceeding south instead of + homewards through Ujiji, and the men seem to have found their own + breaking-point where this disappointment occurred.]</p> + + <p><i>13th April, 1868.</i>—On preparing to start this + morning my people refused to go: the fact is, they are all tired, + and Mohamad's opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was + evidently eager to make capital out of their refusal, asked me to + remain over to-day, and then demanded what I was going to do with + those who had absconded. I said, "Nothing: if a magistrate were + on the spot, I would give them over to him." "Oh," said he, "I am + magistrate, shall I apprehend them?" To this I assented. He + repeated this question till it was tiresome: I saw his reason + long afterwards, when he asserted that I "came to him and asked + him to bind them, but he had refused:" he wanted to appear to the + people as much better than I am.</p> + + <p><i>14th April, 1868.</i>—I start off with five + attendants, leaving most of the luggage with Mohamad, and reach + the Luao to spend the night. Headman Ndowa.</p> + + <p><i>15th April, 1868.</i>—Amoda ran away early this + morning. "Wishes to stop with his brothers." They think that, by + <a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a>refusing to go to Bemba, + they will force me to remain with them, and then go to Ujiji: one + of them has infused the idea into their minds that I will not pay + them, and exclaims "Look at the sepoys!"—not knowing that + they are paid by the Indian Government; and as for the Johanna + men, they were prepaid <i>29l. 4s.</i> in cash, besides clothing. + I sent Amoda's bundle back to Mohamad: my messenger got to + Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and he presented himself to my Arab + friend, who, of course, scolded him: he replied that he was tired + of carrying, and no other fault had he; I may add that I found + out that Amoda wished to come south to me with one of Mohamad + Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return. Now that I + was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to Mohamad that I + would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had done all in my power + to reach the Lake I sought: I would even prefer waiting at Luao + or Moero, till people came to me from Ujiji to supplant the + runaways. I did not blame them very severely in my own mind for + absconding: they were tired of tramping, and so verily am I, but + Mohamad, in encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a + double tongue, cannot be exonerated from blame. Little else can + be expected from him, he has lived some thirty-five years in the + country, twenty-five being at Casembe's, and there he had often + to live by his wits. Consciousness of my own defects makes me + lenient.</p> + + <p><i>16th April, 1868.</i>—Ndowa gives Mita or + Mpamañkanana as the names of the excavations in Muabo's + hills, he says that they are sufficient to conceal all the people + of this district in case of war: I conjecture that this implies + room for ten thousand people: provisions are stored in them, and + a perennial rivulet runs along a whole street of them. On one + occasion, when the main entrance was besieged by an enemy, + someone who knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a + party out by a secret passage, and they, coming <a name= + "Page_288" id="Page_288"></a>over the invaders, drove them off + with heavy loss. Their formation is universally ascribed to the + Deity. This may mean that the present inhabitants have succeeded + the original burrowing race, which dug out many caves adjacent to + Mount Hor—the <i>Jebel Nébi Harin</i>, Mount of the + Prophet Aaron, of the Arabs—and many others; and even the + Bushman caves, a thousand miles south of this region.</p> + + <p>A very minute, sharp-biting mosquito is found here: the women + try to drive them out of their huts by whisking bundles of green + leaves all round the walls before turning into them.</p> + + <p><i>17th August, 1868.</i>—Crossed the Luao by a bridge, + thirty yards long, and more than half a mile of flood on each + side; passed many villages, standing on little heights, which + overlook plains filled with water. Some three miles of grassy + plains abreast of Moero were the deepest parts, except the banks + of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the bottom being generally + black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in the paths by the + feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud, and, as they + could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge, and + when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud, + half-way up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very + fatiguing. To avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the + sides of the paths, but often stepping on the unseen edge of a + rut, we floundered in with both feet to keep the balance, and + this was usually followed by a rush of bubbles to the surface, + which, bursting, discharged foul air of frightful faecal odour. + In parts, the black mud and foul water were cold, in others hot, + according as circulation went on or not. When we came near Moero, + the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all perishable + articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of fishermen + on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid + waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83° + at 3 P.M.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a><i>18th April, + 1868.</i>—We marched along the north end of Moero, which + has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is + flanked by a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees, + added to the fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted + fisherman's village near the eastern hills, we gladly made it our + quarters for Sunday (19th). I made no mark, but the Lake is at + least twenty feet higher now than it was on our first visits, and + there are banks showing higher rises even than this.</p> + + <p>Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for + catching small fish; one man at each basket drives fish + ashore.</p> + + <p><i>20th April, 1868.</i>—Went on to + Katétté River, and then to a strong torrent; slept + at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna, where, near the + hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook cassava and + maize.</p> + + <p><i>21st April, 1868.</i>—Crossed the Vuna and went on to + Kalembwé's village, meeting the chief at the gate, who + guided us to a hut, and manifested great curiosity to see all our + things; he asked if we could not stop next day and drink beer, + which would then be ready. Leopards abound here. The Lake now + seems broader than ever.</p> + + <p>I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose + could be turned to any account except to hold an ornament, though + that is usually only a bit of grass, but a man sewing the + feathers on his arrows used his nose-hole for holding a needle! + In coming on to Kangalola we found the country swimming: I got + separated from the company, though I saw them disappear in the + long grass not a hundred yards off and shouted, but the splashing + of their feet prevented any one hearing. I could not find a path + going south, so I took one to the east to a village; the grass + was so long and tangled, I could scarcely get along, at last I + engaged a man to show me the main path south, and he took me to a + neat village of a woman—Nyinakasanga<a name="Page_290" id= + "Page_290"></a>and would go no further, "Mother Kasanga," as the + name means, had been very handsome, and had a beautiful daughter, + probably another edition of herself, she advised my waiting in + the deep shade of the Ficus indica, in which her houses were + placed. I fired a gun, and when my attendants came gave her a + string of beads, which made her express distress at my "leaving + without drinking anything of hers." People have abandoned several + villages on account of the abundance of ferocious wild + beasts.</p> + + <p><i>23rd April, 1868.</i>—Through very thick tangled + Nyassi grass to Chikosi's burned village; Nsama had killed him. + We spent the night in a garden hut, which the fire of the village + had spared. Turnips were growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or + long coarse grass, hangs over the paths, and in pushing it aside + the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes and are very annoying. The + grass itself rubs on the face and eyes disagreeably: when it is + burned off and greensward covers the soil it is much more + pleasant walking.</p> + + <p>24th <i>April, 1868.</i>—We leave Chikosi's ruins and + make for the ford of the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom + all over the forest, and so are foxgloves. The river is here + fully 100 yards broad with 300 yards of flood on its western + bank; so deep we had to remain in the canoes till within 50 yards + of the higher ground. The people here chew the pith of the + papyrus, which is three inches in diameter and as white as snow: + it has very little sweetness or anything else in it. The headman + of the village to which we went was out cutting wood for a + garden, and his wife refused us a hut, but when Kansabala came in + the evening he scolded his own spouse roundly and all the wives + of the village, and then pressed me to come indoors, but I was + well enough in my mosquito curtain without, and declined: I was + free from insects and vermin, and few huts are so.</p> + + <p><i>25th April, 1868.</i>—Off early west, and then on to + an elevated forest land, in which our course was S.S.W. to the + great <a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a>bend of the rivulet + Kifurwa, which enters Moero near to the mouth of the + Kalungosi.</p> + + <p><i>26th April, 1868.</i>—Here we spent Sunday in our + former woodcutters' huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the + same occupation, laden with bark-cloth, which they had just been + stripping off the trees. Their leader would not come along the + path because I was sitting near it: I invited him to do so, but + it would have been disrespectful to let his shadow fall on any + part of my person, so he went a little out of the way: this + politeness is common.</p> + + <p><i>27th April, 1868.</i>—But a short march to + Fungafunga's village: we could have gone on to the + Muatizé, but no village exists there, and here we could + buy food. Fungafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to the + stranger: on afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said, + "That is your village; always go that way and eat my provisions." + He is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, and + slaves. Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus sorghum in + spite of the shouts of the women.</p> + + <p>We cross Muatizé by a bridge of one large tree, getting + a good view of Moero from a hill near Kabukwa, and sleep at + Chirongo River.</p> + + <p><i>29th April, 1868.</i>—At the Mandapala River. Some + men here from the Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of + Casembe, made a great outcry against our coming a second time to + Casembe without waiting at the Kalungosi for permission. One of + them, with his ears cropped short off, asked me when I was + departing north if I should come again. I replied, "Yes, I think + I shall." They excited themselves by calling over the same thing + again and again. "The English come the second time!" "The second + time—the second time—the country spoiled! Why not + wait at the Kalungosi? Let him return thither." "Come from + Mpamari too, and from the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi!!" "The + second time—the second time!" Then all the ad<a name= + "Page_292" id="Page_292"></a>jacent villagers were called in to + settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher Power to + influence their minds as He has often done before. I persuaded + them to refer the matter to Casembe himself by sending a man with + one of mine up to the town. They would not consent to go on to + the Chungu, as the old cropped-eared man would have been obliged + to come back the distance again, he having been on the way to the + Kalungosi as a sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and + fair, but his people are neither, and will do anything to mulct + either strangers or their own countrymen.</p> + + <p><i>30th April, 1868.</i>—The cold of winter has begun, + and dew is deposited in great quantities, but all the streams are + very high in flood, though the rains have ceased here some + time.</p> + + <p><i>1st May, 1868.</i>—At the Mandapala River. I sent a + request to Mohamad Bogharib to intercede with Casembe for me for + a man to show the way to Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. I + fear that I have become mixed up in the Lunda mind with Mpamari + (Mohamad bin Saleh), from having gone off with him and returning + ere we reached Ujiji, whither ostensibly we were bound. I may be + suspected of being in his confidence, and of forwarding his plans + by coming back. A deaf and dumb man appears among the people + here, making signs exactly as I have seen such do in England, and + occasionally emitting a low unmodulated guttural drawl like + them.</p> + + <p><i>3rd May, 1868.</i>—Abraham, my messenger, came back, + while we were at afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but + what made Cropped-ears quite chopfallen was that Casembe was + quite gracious! He did not wish me to go away, and now I am + welcome back; and as soon as we hear of peace at Chikumbi's we + shall have a man to conduct us thither. The Mazitu were reported + to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's country; and it was said + that chief had fled, <a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a>and + Casembe had sent messengers to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most + High for His kindness and influence.</p> + + <p><i>4th May, 1868.</i>—We leave the Mandapala. + Cropped-ears, whose name I never heard, collapsed at once on + hearing the message of Casembe: before that I never heard such a + babbler, to every one passing, man or woman, he repeated the same + insinuations about the English, and "Mpamari," and the + Banyamwezi,—conspiracy—guilt—return a second + time,—till, like a meddling lawyer, he thought that he had + really got an important case in hand!</p> + + <p>The River Chungu we found to be from fifteen to eighteen yards + broad and breast deep, with at least one hundred yards of flood, + before we reached the main stream, the Mandapala. The Chungu and + the Lundi join in the country called Kimbafuma, about twelve + miles from our crossing-place of Mandapala, and about west of it. + The Lundi was now breast deep too, and twelve yards broad.</p> + + <p>On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofwé, we found Mohamad + Bogharib digging and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves + being taken away by the crocodiles, as three had been eaten + already. A dog bit the leg of one of my goats so badly that I was + obliged to kill it: they are nasty curs here, without courage, + and yet they sometimes bite people badly. I met some old friends, + and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, and from this time forward + never omitted sharing his victuals with me.</p> + + <p><i>6th May, 1868.</i>—Manoel Caetano Pereira visited + Casembe in 1796, or seventy-two years ago: his native name was + Moendo-mondo, or the world's leg—"world-wide traveller!" He + came to Mandapala, for there the Casembe of the time resided, and + he had a priest or "Kasisé" with him, and many people with + guns. Pérémbé, the oldest man now in Lunda, + had children even then: if Pérémbé were + thirty years of age at that period he would now be 102 years old, + and he seems quite that, for when Dr. Lacerda came <a name= + "Page_294" id="Page_294"></a>he had forty children. He says that + Pereira fired off all his guns on his arrival, and Casembe asking + him what he meant by that, he replied, "These guns ask for slaves + and ivory," both of which were liberally given.</p> + + <p>I could not induce Pérémbé to tell + anything of times previous to his own. Moendo-mondo, the world's + leg (Pereira), told Dr. Lacerda that the natives called him "The + Terror!"—a bit of vanity, for they have no such word or + abstract term in their language.</p> + + <p>When Major Monteiro was here the town of Casembe was on the + same spot as now, but the Mosumba, or enclosure of the chief, was + about 500 yards S.E. of the present one. Monteiro went nowhere + and did nothing, but some of his attendants went over to the + Luapula, some six miles distant. He complains in his book of + having been robbed by the Casembe of the time. On asking the + present occupant of the office why Monteiro's goods were taken + from him, he replied, that he was then living at another village + and did not know of the affair. Mohamad bin Saleh was present, + and he says that Monteiro's statement is false: no goods were + forced from him; but it was a year of scarcity, and Monteiro had + to spend his goods in buying food instead of slaves and ivory, + and made up the tale of Casembe plundering him to appease his + creditors.</p> + + <p>A number of men were sent with Monteiro as an honorary escort. + Kapika, an old man now living, was the chief or one of the chiefs + of this party, and he says that he went to Tette, Senna, and + Quillimane with Monteiro: this honorary escort seems confirmatory + of Mohamad's explanation, for had Casembe robbed the Major none + would have been granted or received.</p> + + <p>It is warmer here than we found it in the way; clouds cover + the sky and prevent radiation. The sorghum is now in full ear. + People make very neat mats of the leaves of the Shuaré + palm. I got lunars this time.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a><i>9th May, + 1868.</i>—Eight or ten men went past us this morning, sent + by the chief to catch people whom he intends to send to his + paramount chief, Matiamvo, as a tribute of slaves. + Pérémbé gives the following list of the + Casembes:—</p> + + <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">I. KANYIMBE, came from Lunda, + attracted by the</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 4em;">fish of Mofwé and Moero, + and conquered</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 4em;">Pérémbé's + forefather, Katéré, who planted the</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 4em;">first palm-oil palms here from + seeds got in</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 4em;">Lunda. It is probable that the + intercourse</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 4em;">then set afoot led to + Kanyimbé's coming and</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 4em;">conquest.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">II. KINYANTA.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">III. NGUANDA + MILONDA.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">IV. KANYEMBO.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">V. LEKWISA.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">VI. KIRÉKA.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">VII. KAPUMBA.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">VIII. KINYANTA.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">IX. LEKWISA, still alive, but a + fugitive at Nsama's.</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">X. MUONGA, the present ruler, who + drove Lékwisa</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">away.</span><br /></p> + + <p>The Portuguese came to Kiréka, who is said to have been + very liberal with presents of ivory, slaves, and cattle. The + present man has good sense, and is very fair in his judgments, + but stingy towards his own people as well as strangers: + nevertheless I have had good reason to be satisfied with his + conduct to me. Maiyé, not in the list, and 7, 8, 9, 10 are + the children of Kiréka. Muonga is said by the others to be + a slave "born out of the house," that is, his mother was not of + the royal line; she is an ugly old woman, and greedy. I got rid + of her begging by giving her the beads she sought, and requesting + her to cook some food for me; she begged no more, afraid that I + would press my claim for provisions!</p> + + <p><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a><i>10th May, + 1868.</i>—I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula, he + replied that he had not seen me nor given me any food; I must + come to-morrow: but next day he was occupied in killing a man for + witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he would on + the 12th. He sent 15 fish (perch) from Mofwé, and a large + basket of dried cassava. I have taken lunars several times, + measuring both sides of the moon about 190 times, but a silly + map-maker may alter the whole for the most idiotic of + reasons.</p> + + <p><i>13th May, 1868.</i>—Mohamad Bogharib has been here + some seven months, and bought three tusks only; the hunting, by + Casembe's people, of elephants in the Mofwé has been + unsuccessful.</p> + + <p>We did not get an audience from Casembe; the fault lay with + Kapika—Monteiro's escort—being afraid to annoy + Casembe by putting him in mind of it, but on the 15th Casembe + sent for me, and told me that as the people had all fled from + Chikumbi's, he would therefore send guides to take us to Kabaia, + where there was still a population; he wished me to wait a few + days till he had looked out good men as guides, and ground some + flour for us to use in the journey. He understood that I wished + to go to Bangweolo; and it was all right to do what my own chief + had sent me for, and then come back to him. It was only + water—the same as Luapula, Mofwé, and Moero; nothing + to be seen. His people must not molest me again, but let me go + where I liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all + in His hand.</p> + + <p>Casembe also admitted that he had injured "Mpamari," but he + would send him some slaves and ivory in reparation: he is better + than his people, who are excessively litigious, and fond of + milandos or causes—suits. He asked if I had not the + leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it was bad to sit on the + ground; I told him it had so many holes in it people laughed at + it and made me ashamed, but he did not <a name="Page_297" id= + "Page_297"></a>take the hint to give me another. He always talks + good sense when he has not swilled beer or pombe: all the Arabs + are loud in his praises, but they have a bad opinion of the Queen + Moäri or Ngombé or Kifuta. The Garaganza people at + Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and herself, and when + the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza or + Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the + Mofwé: he continued his flight as soon as it was dark + without saying anything to anyone, until he got north to + Kabiuré. The Queen and Casembe suspected Mpamari of + complicity with the Banyamwezi, and believed that Fungafunga had + communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A tumult was + made; Mpamari's eldest son was killed; and he was plundered of + all his copper, ivory, and slaves: the Queen loudly demanded his + execution, but Casembe restrained his people as well as he was + able and it is for this injury that he now professes to be + sorry.</p> + + <p>The Queen only acted according to the principles of her + people. "Mpamari killed my son, kill his son—himself." It + is difficult to get at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never + tells the whole truth. He went to fight Nsama with Muonga, and + was wounded in the foot and routed, and is now glad to get out of + Lunda back to Ujiji. <i>(16th May.)</i> Complete twenty sets of + lunars.</p> + + <p><i>11th May, 1868.</i>—Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe + that he could buy nothing, and therefore was going away, Casembe + replied that he had no ivory and he might go: this was sensible; + he sent far and near to find some, but failed, and now confesses + a truth which most chiefs hide from unwillingness to appear poor + before foreigners.</p> + + <p><i>18th and 19th May, 1868.</i>—It is hot here though + winter; but cold by night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. News + came that one of Syde bin Habib's men had come to Chikumbi on his + way to Zanzibar.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a><i>20th May, + 1868.</i>—A thunder-shower from the east laid the dust and + cooled the ground: the last shower of this season, as a similar + slight shower was the finish up of the last on the 12th of May. + <i>(21st May.</i>) This cannot be called a rainy month: April is + the last month of the wet season, and November the first.</p> + + <p><i>22nd May, 1868.</i>—Casembe is so slow with his fish, + meal, and guides, and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I + think of going off as soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves; he is going + to Chikumbi's to buy copper, and thence he will proceed to Uvira + to exchange that for ivory; but this is at present kept as a + secret from his slaves. The way seems thus to be opening for me + to go to the large Lake west of Uvira.</p> + + <p>I told Casembe that we were going; he said to me that if in + coming back I had found no travelling party, I must not risk + going by Nsama's road with so few people, but must go to his + brother Moenempanda, and he would send men to guide me to him, + and thence he would send me safely by his path along Lake Moero: + this was all very good.</p> + + <p><i>23rd May, 1868.</i>—The Arabs made a sort of + sacrifice of a goat which was cooked all at once; they sent a + good dish of it to me. They read the Koran very industriously, + and prayed for success or luck in leaving, and seem sincerely + religious, according to the light that is in them. The use of + incense and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish times to + mind.</p> + + <p>A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet an hour + south of this, to build huts; there they are to take leave of + Casembe, for the main body goes off to-morrow, after we have seen + the new moon. They are very particular in selecting lucky days, + and anything unpleasant that may have happened in one month is + supposed to be avoided by choosing a different day for beginning + an enterprise in the <a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a>next. + Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new moon, and several + fires happened in his camp; he now considers a third day + inauspicious.</p> + + <p>Casembe's dura or sorghum is ripe to-day: he has eaten mapemba + or dura, and all may thereafter do the same: this is just about + the time when it ripens and is reaped at Kolobeng, thus the + difference in the seasons is not great.</p> + + <p><i>24th May, 1868.</i>—Detained four days yet. Casembe's + chief men refuse to escort Mohamad Bogharib; they know him to be + in debt, and fear that he may be angry, but no dunning was + intended. Casembe was making every effort to get ivory to + liquidate it, and at last got a couple of tusks, which he + joyfully gave to Mohamad: he has risen much in the estimation of + us all.</p> + + <p><i>26th May, 1868.</i>—Casembe's people killed five + buffaloes by chasing them into the mud and water of Mofwé, + so he is seeing to the division of the meat, and will take leave + to-morrow.</p> + + <p><i>28th May, 1868.</i>—We went to Casembe; he was as + gracious as usual. A case of crim. con. was brought forward + against an Arab's slave, and an attempt was made to arrange the + matter privately by offering three cloths, beads, and another + slave, but the complainant refused everything. Casembe dismissed + the case by saying to the complainant, "You send your women to + entrap the strangers in order to get a fine, but you will get + nothing:" this was highly applauded by the Arabs, and the owner + of the slave heaped dust on his head, as many had done before for + favours received. Casembe, still anxious to get ivory for + Mohamad, proposed another delay of four days to send for it; but + all are tired, and it is evident that it is not want of will that + prevents ivory being produced.</p> + + <p>His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed + inability: he is evidently very poor.</p> + + <p><i>30th May, 1868.</i>—We went to the Kanengwa rivulet + at the <a name="Page_300" id="Page_300"></a>south end of + Mofwé, which forms a little lagoon there fifty yards broad + and thigh deep; but this is not the important feeder of the + Lagoon, which is from two to three miles broad, and nearly four + long: that has many large flat sedgy islands in it, and its water + is supplied by the Mbérézé from + south-east.</p> + + <p><i>31st May, 1868.</i>—Old Kapika sold his young and + good-looking wife for unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of + a lady in the chain-gang shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to + her, and having ascertained from her own mouth what was + sufficiently apparent, that she was a slave now, clapped their + hands on their mouths in the way that they express wonder, + surprise, and horror: the hand is placed so that the fingers are + on one cheek and the thumb on the other.</p> + + <p>The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among the + people; some brought her food, Kapika's daughters brought her + pombe and bananas; one man offered to redeem her with two, + another with three slaves, but Casembe, who is very strict in + punishing infidelity, said, "No, though ten slaves be offered she + must go." He is probably afraid of his own beautiful queen should + the law be relaxed. Old Kapika came and said to her, "You refused + me, and I now refuse you." A young wife of old + Pérémbé was also sold as a punishment, but + redeemed.</p> + + <p>There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall men + in this district. The slave-trader is a means of punishing the + wives which these old fogies ought never to have had.</p> + + <p>Casembe sent me about a hundredweight of the small fish Nsipo, + which seems to be the whitebait of our country; it is a little + bitter when cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a tolerable + relish: we can buy flour with these at Chikumbi's.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> + Chikichi nuts have been an article of trade and export for + some time from Zanzibar. The oil-palm grows wild in + Pemba.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> A chief + named Moené Ungu, who admires the Arabs, sent his + children to Zanzibar to be instructed to read and write.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> This + bird is often brought to Zanzibar by the Ivory Caravans.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> The + Doctor's birthday.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><a name="Page_301" + id="Page_301"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th + June, 1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River + Luongo. Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake + Bembo changed to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa + people. Kombokombo's stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers + Lake Bangweolo on 18th July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. + Description of the Lake. Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for + Lifungé Island. Immense size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala + Island. Strange dream. Fears of canoe men. Return to shore. + March back. Sends letters. Meets Banyamweze. Reviews recent + explorations at length. Disturbed state of country.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>1st June, 1868.</i>—Mohamad proposes to go to Katanga + to buy copper, and invites me to go too. I wish to see the Lufra + Kiver, but I must see Bemba or Bangweolo. Grant guidance from + above!</p> + + <p><i>2nd June, 1868.</i>—In passing a field of cassava I + picked the pods of a plant called Malumbi, which climbs up the + cassava bushes; at the root it has a number of tubers with eyes, + exactly like the potato. One plant had sixteen of these tubers, + each about 2 inches long and 1-1/2 inch in diameter: another + tuber was 5 inches long and 2 in diameter, it would be difficult + for anyone to distinguish them from English potatoes. When boiled + they are a little waxy, and, compared with our potato, hard. + There are colours inside, the outer part reddish, the inner + whiter. At first none of the party knew them, but afterwards they + were recognised as cultivated at Zanzibar by the name "<a name= + "Page_302" id="Page_302"></a>Men," and very good when mashed with + fish: if in Zanzibar, they are probably known in other tropical + islands,</p> + + <p><i>4th June, 1868.</i>—From what I see of slaving, even + in its best phases, I would not be a slave-dealer for the + world.</p> + + <p><i>5th June, 1868.</i>—The Queen Moäri passed us + this morning, going to build a hut at her plantation; she has a + pleasant European countenance, clean light-brown skin, and a + merry laugh, and would be admired anywhere. I stood among the + cassava to see her pass; she twirled her umbrella as she came + near, borne by twelve men, and seemed to take up the laugh which + made her and her maids bolt at my reception, showing that she + laughs not with her mouth only, but with her eyes and cheeks: she + said, "Yambo" (how are you)? To which I replied, "Tambo sana" + (very well). One of her attendants said, "Give her something of + what you have at hand, or in the pockets." I said, "I have + nothing here," and asked her if she would come back near my hut. + She replied that she would, and I duly sent for two strings of + red beads, which I presented. Being lower than she, I could see + that she had a hole through the cartilage, near the point of her + slightly aquiline nose; and a space was filed between the two + front teeth, so as to leave a triangular hole.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p302" id="p302"></a> <img src="images/p302.png" width= + "250" height="106" alt="Filed Teeth of Queen Moäri." + title="Filed Teeth of Queen Moäri." /><br /> + <b>Filed Teeth of + Queen Moäri.</b> + </div> + + <p>After delay had grown vexatious, we march three hours on the + 9th, and reach the Katofia River, covered with aquatic trees and + running into the Mbérézé: five yards wide + and knee deep.</p> + + <p><i>10th June, 1868.</i>—Detained again, for business is + not finished with the people of Casembe. The people cannot esteem + the slave-trader, who is used as a means of punishing those who + have family differences, as those of a wife with her husband, or + a servant with his master. The slaves are said to be generally + criminals, and are sold in revenge or as punish<a name="Page_303" + id="Page_303"></a>ment. Kapika's wife had an ornament of the end + of a shell called the cone; it was borrowed and she came away + with it in her hair: the owner, without making any effort to + recover it, seized one of Kapika's daughters as a pledge that + Kapika would exert himself to get it back!</p> + + <p>[At last the tedious delay came to an end and we must now + follow the Doctor on his way south to discover Lake Bemba.]</p> + + <p><i>11th June, 1868.</i>—Crossed the + Mbérézé, ten yards broad and thigh deep, + ascending a range of low hills of hardened sandstone, covered, as + the country generally is, with forest. Our course S.E. and S.S.E. + Then descended into a densely-wooded valley, having a rivulet + four yards wide and knee deep. Buffaloes and elephants very + numerous.</p> + + <p><i>12th June, 1868.</i>—We crossed the + Mbérézé again twice; then a very deep narrow + rivulet, and stopped at another in a mass of trees, where we + spend the night, and killing an ox remained next day to eat it. + When at Kanengwa a small party of men came past, shouting as if + they had done something of importance: on going to them, I found + that two of them carried a lion slung to a pole. It was a small + maneless variety, called "the lion of <i>Nyassi</i>," or long + grass. It had killed a man and they killed it. They had its mouth + carefully strapped, and the paws tied across its chest, and were + taking it to Casembe. <i>Nyassi</i> means long grass, such as + towers overhead, and is as thick in the stalk as a goose-quill; + and is erroneously applied to Nyassa. Other + lions—Thambwé, Karamo, Simba, are said to stand 5 + feet high, and some higher: this seemed about 3 feet high, but it + was too dark to measure it.</p> + + <p><i>13th June, 1868.</i>—The Arabs distinguish the + Suaheli, or Arabs of mixed African blood, by the absence of beard + and whiskers: these are usually small and stunted in the + Suaheli.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304"></a>Birds, as the Drongo + shrike, and a bird very like the grey linnet, with a thick + reddish bill, assemble in very large flocks now that it is + winter, and continue thus till November, or period of the + rains.</p> + + <p>A very minute bee goes into the common small holes in + wormeaten wood to make a comb and lay its eggs, with a supply of + honey. There are seven or eight honey-bees of small size in this + country.</p> + + <p>A sphex may be seen to make holes in the ground, placing + stupified insects in them with her eggs; another species watches + when she goes off to get more insects, and every now and then + goes in too to lay her eggs, I suppose without any labour: there + does not appear to be any enmity between them. We remained a day + to buy food for the party, and eat our ox.</p> + + <p><i>14th June, 1868.</i>—March over well-wooded highlands + with dolomite rocks cropping out and trees all covered with + lichens, the watershed then changed to the south.</p> + + <p><i>15th June, 1868.</i>—Yery cold in mornings now + (43°). Found Moenempanda, Casembe's brother, on the Luluputa, + a stream twenty yards wide and flowing west. The Moenempanda + visited by the Portuguese was grandfather to this one, and not at + the same spot; it is useless to put down the names of chiefs as + indicating geographical positions, for the name is often + continued, but at a spot far distant from the dwelling of the + original possessor. A slave tried to break out of his + slave-stick, and actually broke half an inch of tough iron with + his fingers; the end stuck in the wood, or he would have freed + himself.</p> + + <p>The chief gave me a public reception, which was like that of + Casembe, but better managed. He is young, and very handsome but + for a defect in his eyes, which makes him keep them half shut or + squinting. He walked off in the jaunty way all chiefs do in this + country, to show the weight of rings and beads on the legs, and + many imitate this <a name="Page_305" id="Page_305"></a>walk who + have none, exactly as our fathers imitated the big cravat of + George IV., who thereby hid defects in his neck: thousands + carried their cravats over the chin who had no defects to hide. + Moenempanda carried his back stiffly, and no wonder, he had about + ten yards of a train carried behind it. About 600 people were + present. They kept rank, but not step; were well armed; marimbas + and square drums formed the bands, and one musician added his + voice: "I have been to Syde" (the Sultan); "I have been to + Meereput" (King of Portugal); "I have been to the sea." At a + private reception, where he was divested of his train, and had + only one umbrella instead of three, I gave him a cloth. The Arabs + thought highly of him; but his graciousness had been expended on + them in getting into debt; he now showed no inclination to get + out of it, but offered about a twentieth part of the value of the + goods in liquidation. He sent me two pots of beer, which I care + not to drink except when very thirsty on a march, and promised a + man to guide me to Chikumbi, and then refused. Casembe rose in + the esteem of all as Moenempanda sank, and his people were made + to understand how shabbily he had behaved.</p> + + <p>The Lulaputa is said to flow into the Luéna, and that + into the Luongo: there must be two Luénas.</p> + + <p><i>22nd June, 1868.</i>—March across a grassy plain + southerly to the Luongo, a deep river embowered in a dense forest + of trees, all covered with lichens—some flat, others long + and thready, like old men's beards, and waving in the wind, just + as they do on the mangrove-swamp trees on the coast. The Luongo + here is fifty yards broad and three fathoms deep; near its + junction with the Luapula it is 100 yards; it rises here to eight + fathoms' depth. A bridge of forty yards led us over to an island, + and a branch of the river was ten yards beyond: the bridge had + been broken, some thought on purpose, but it was soon mended with + trees eighteen to <a name="Page_306" id="Page_306"></a>twenty + yards long. We went a little way beyond, and then halted for a + day at a rivulet flowing into the Luongo, 200 yards off.</p> + + <p><i>23rd June, 1868.</i>—We waited for copper here, which + was at first refused as payment of debt. I saw now that the + Luongo had steep clay banks fifteen feet down, and many meadows, + which must be swimming during the rains. The Luéna is said + to rise east of this.</p> + + <p>[In a private letter Livingstone shows that he had seldom been + more affected by the sufferings of slaves than at this time, and + it would perhaps be difficult to imagine any scene more + calculated to excite misery and distress of mind.</p> + + <p>The following incident deals with the firm belief in a future + state, which enters so largely into the minds of all Africans, + and which for very lack of guidance assumes all the distorted + growths of superstition.</p> + + <p>He must be of a thankless spirit who does not long to + substitute the great vision of future peace afforded by + Christianity, in lieu of the ghastly satisfaction which cheered + these men, when he sees by the light of this story the capacity + that exists for realising a life beyond the grave.]</p> + + <p><i>24th June, 1868.</i>—Six men slaves were singing as + if they did not feel the weight and degradation of the + slave-sticks. I asked the cause of their mirth, and was told that + they rejoiced at the idea "of coming back after death and + haunting and killing those who had sold them." Some of the words + I had to inquire about; for instance, the meaning of the words + "to haunt and kill by spirit power;" then it was, "Oh, you sent + me off to Manga (sea-coast), but the yoke is off when I die, and + back I shall come to haunt and to kill you." Then all joined in + the chorus, which was the name of each vendor. It told not of + fun, but of the bitterness <a name="Page_307" id= + "Page_307"></a>and tears of such as were oppressed, and on the + side of the oppressors there was a power: there be higher than + they!</p> + + <p>Pérémbé was one of the culprits thus + menaced. The slave-owner asked Kapika's wife if she would return + to kill Kapika. The others answered to the names of the different + men with laughter. Her heart was evidently sore: for a lady to + come so low down is to her grievous. She has lost her jaunty air, + and is, with her head shaved, ugly; but she never forgets to + address her captors with dignity, and they seem to fear her.</p> + + <p><i>25th June, 1868.</i>—We went over flat forest with + patches of brown haematite cropping out; this is the usual iron + ore, but I saw in a village pieces of specular iron-ore which had + been brought for smelting. The Luongo flowed away somewhat to our + right or west, and the villagers had selected their site where + only well-water could be found: we went ten minutes towards the + Luongo and got abundance.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="p307" id="p307"></a> <img src="images/p307.jpg" width= + "323" height="216" alt="A Forest Grave." title= + "A Forest Grave." /><br /> <b>A Forest Grave.</b> + </div> + + <p>The gardens had high hedges round to keep off wild beasts. We + came to a grave in the forest; it was a little rounded mound as + if the occupant sat in it in the usual native way: it was strewed + over with flour, and a number of the large blue beads put on it: + a little path showed that it had visitors. This is the sort of + grave I should prefer: to lie in the still, still forest, and no + hand ever disturb my bones. The graves at home always seemed to + me to be miserable, especially those in the cold damp clay, and + without elbow room; but I have nothing to do but wait till He who + is over all decides where I <a name="Page_308" id= + "Page_308"></a>have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on + Shupanga brae, "and beeks fornent the sun."<a name= + "FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></p> + + <p>Came to the Chando River, which is the boundary between + Casembe and Chikumbi; but Casembe is over all.</p> + + <p><i>27th June, 1868.</i>—We crossed a flooded marsh with + the water very cold, and then the Chando itself twelve feet broad + and knee deep, then on to another strong brook Nsénga.</p> + + <p><i>28th June, 1868.</i>—After service we went on up + hills to a stockade of Banyamwezi, on the Kalomina River, and + here we built our sheds; the spot is called Kizinga, and is on + the top of a sandstone range covered as usual with forest. The + Banyamwezi beat off the Mazitu with their guns, while all the + country people fled. The Banyamwezi are decidedly uglier than the + Balonda and Baitawa: they eat no fish, though they come from the + east side of Tanganyika, where fish are abundant and cheap; but + though uglier, they have more of the sense of honour with traders + than the aborigines.</p> + + <p><i>29th June, 1868.</i>—Observed the "smokes" to-day, + the first of the season:<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id= + "FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class= + "fnanchor">[65]</a> they obscured the whole country.</p> + + <p><i>1st July, 1868.</i>—I went over to Chikumbi, the + paramount chief of this district, and gave him a cloth, begging a + man to guide me to Bangweolo. He said that I was welcome to his + country; all were so: I had better wait two days till he had + selected a <i>good</i> man as a guide, and he would send some + food for me to eat in the journey—he would not say ten + days, but only two, and his man would take me to the smaller part + of the Lake, and leave others to forward me to the greater or + Bangweolo. The smaller part is named Bemba, but that name is + confusing, because Bemba is the name of the country in which a + portion of the Lake lies. <a name="Page_309" id= + "Page_309"></a>When asking for Lake Bemba, Kasongo's son said to + me, "Bemba is not a lake, but a country:" it is therefore better + to use the name BANGWEOLO, which is applied to the great mass of + the water, though I fear that our English folks will bogle at it, + or call it Bungyhollow! Some Arabs say Bambeolo as easier of + pronunciation, but Bangweolo is the correct word. Chikumbi's + stockade is 1-1/2 hour S.E. of our camp at Kizinga.</p> + + <p><i>2nd July, 1868.</i>—Writing to the Consul at Zanzibar + to send supplies of cloth to Ujiji—120 pieces, 40 Kiniki; + 80 merikano 34 inches broad, or samsam. Fine red + beads—Talaka, 12 frasilas. I ask for soap, coffee, sugar, + candles, sardines, French preserved meats, a cheese in tin, + Nautical Almanac for 1869 and 1870, shoes (two or four pairs), + ruled paper, pencils, sealing-wax, ink, powder, flannel-serge, 12 + frasila beads, 6 of Talaka; added 3 F. pale red, 3 W. white.</p> + + <p><i>3rd July, 1868.</i>—The summary of the sources which + I have resolved to report as flowing into the central line of + drainage formed by the Chambezé, Luapula, and Lualaba are + thirteen in all, and each is larger than the Isis at Oxford, or + Avon at Hamilton. Five flow into the eastern line of drainage + going through Tanganyika, and five more into the western line of + drainage or Lufira, twenty-three or more in all. The Lualaba and + the Lufira unite in the Lake of the chief Kinkonza.</p> + + <p><i>5th July, 1868.</i>—I borrowed some paper from + Mohamad Bogharib to write home by some Arabs going to the coast. + I will announce my discovery to Lord Clarendon; but I reserve the + parts of the Lualaba and Tanganyika for future confirmation. I + have no doubts on the subject, for I receive the reports of + natives of intelligence at first hand, and they have no motive + for deceiving me. The best maps are formed from the same sort of + reports at third or fourth hand. Cold N.E. winds prevail at + present.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310"></a><i>6th July, + 1868.</i>—Divided our salt that each may buy provisions for + himself: it is here of more value than beads. Chikumbi sent fine + flour, a load for two stout men carried in a large basket slung + to a pole, and a fine fat sheep, carried too because it was too + fat to walk the distance from his stockade.</p> + + <p><i>7th, 8th, and 9th July, 1868.</i>—After delaying + several days to send our guide, Chikumbi said that he feared the + country people would say that the Ingleza brought the Mazitu to + them, and so blame will be given to him. I set this down as + "words of pombe," beery babble; but after returning from + Bangweolo, I saw that he must have been preparing to attack a + stockade of Banyamwezi in our path, and had he given us a guide, + that man would have been in danger in coming back: he therefore + preferred the safety of his man to keeping his promise to me. I + got a Banyamwezi guide, and left on the <i>10th July, 1868</i>, + going over gently rising sandstone hills, covered with forest and + seeing many deserted villages, the effects of the Mazitu foray: + we saw also the Mazitu sleeping-places and paths. They neglect + the common paths of the country as going from one village to + another, and take straight courses in the direction they wish to + go, treading down the grass so as to make a well-marked route, + The Banyamwezi expelled them, cutting off so many of them with + their guns and arrows that the marauders retired. The effect of + this success on the minds of the Imboshwa, or Imbozhwas, as + Chikumbi's people are called, was not gratitude, but envy at the + new power sprung up among them of those who came originally as + traders in copper.</p> + + <p>Kombokombo's stockade, the village to which we went this day, + was the first object of assault, and when we returned, he told us + that Chikumbi had assaulted him on three sides, but was repulsed. + The Banyamwezi were, <a name="Page_311" id= + "Page_311"></a>moreover, much too sharp as traders for the + Imboshwa, cheating them unmercifully, and lying like Greeks. + Kombokombo's stockade was on the Chibérasé River, + which flows briskly, eight yards broad and deep, through a mile + of sponge. We came in the midst of a general jollification, and + were most bountifully supplied with pombe and food. The + Banyamwezi acknowledge allegiance to the Sultan of Zanzibar, and + all connected with him are respected. Kombokombo pressed food and + drink on me, and when I told him that I had nothing to return for + it, he said that he expected nothing: he was a child of the + Sultan, and ought to furnish all I needed.</p> + + <p><i>11th July, 1868.</i>—On leaving the + Chibérasé we passed up over a long line of hills + with many villages and gardens, but mostly deserted during the + Mazitu raid. The people fled into the forests on the hills, and + were an easy prey to the marauders, who seem to have been + unmerciful. When we descended into the valley beyond we came to a + strong stockade, which had successfully resisted the onset of the + Mazitu; we then entered on flat forest, with here and there + sponges containing plenty of water; plains succeeded the hills, + and continued all the way to Bangweolo. We made a fence in the + forest; and next day <i>(12th July)</i> reached the Rofuba, 50 + yards broad and 4-1/2 feet deep, full of aquatic plants, and + flowing south-west into the Luongo: it had about a mile and a + half of sponge on each side of it. We encamped a little south of + the river.</p> + + <p><i>13th July, 1868.</i>—On resting at a deserted spot, + the men of a village in the vicinity came to us excited and + apparently drunk, and began to work themselves up still more by + running about, poising their spears at us, taking aim with their + bows and arrows, and making as if about to strike with their + axes: they thought that we were marauders, and some plants of + ground-nuts strewn about gave colour to the idea. There is + usually one good soul in such rabbles. <a name="Page_312" id= + "Page_312"></a>In this case a man came to me, and, addressing his + fellows, said, "This is only your pombe. White man, do not stand + among them, but go away," and then he placed himself between me + and a portion of the assailants, about thirty of whom were making + their warlike antics. While walking quietly away with my good + friend they ran in front and behind bushes and trees, took aim + with bow and arrow, but none shot: the younger men ran away with + our three goats. When we had gone a quarter of a mile my friend + told me to wait and he would bring the goats, which he did: I + could not feel the inebriates to be enemies; but in that state + they are the worst one can encounter, for they have no fear as + they have when sober. One snatched away a fowl from our guide, + that too was restored by our friend. I did not load my gun; for + any accidental discharge would have inflamed them to rashness. We + got away without shedding blood, and were thankful. The Mazitu + raid has produced lawlessness in the country: every one was taken + as an enemy.</p> + + <p><i>14th July, 1868.</i>—We remained a day at the + stockade of Moiéggéa. A Banyamwezi or Garaganza man + is settled here in Kabaia's district, and on the strong rivulet + called Mato. We felt secure only among the strangers, and they + were friendly with us.</p> + + <p><i>15th July, 1868.</i>—At the village on the south bank + of the Mpanda we were taken by the headman as Mazitu. He was + evidently intoxicated, and began to shut his gates with frantic + gesticulations. I offered to go away; but others of his people, + equally intoxicated, insisted on my remaining. I sat down a + little, but seeing that the chief was still alarmed, I said to + his people, "The chief objects and I can't stay:" they saw the + reasonableness of this, but I could not get my cowardly + attendants to come on, though one said to me, "Come, I shall show + you the way: we must speak nice to them." This the wise boys + think the perfection of virtue, <a name="Page_313" id= + "Page_313"></a>speaking nice means adopting a childish treble + tone of voice and words exactly similar to those of the little + Scotch girl who, passing through a meadow, was approached by a + cow, probably from curiosity. To appease this enemy, she said, + "Oh, coo, coo, if you no hurt me, I no hurt you." I told them to + come on and leave them quietly, but they remained babbling with + them. The guide said that there was no water in front: this I + have been told too often ever to believe, so I went on through + the forest, and in an hour and a half came to a sponge where, + being joined by my attendants, we passed the night.</p> + + <p><i>16th July, 1868.</i>—Crossing this sponge, and + passing through flat forest, we came to another named + Méshwé, when there, as a contrast, the young men + volunteered to carry me across; but I had got off my shoes, and + was in the water, and they came along with me, showing the + shallower parts. We finished the day's march by crossing the + Molongosi spongy ooze, with 150 paces of deep water, flowing N.E. + The water in these oozes or sponges felt very cold, though only + 60° in the mornings, and 65° at midday. The Molongosi + people invited us into the village; but the forest, unless when + infested with leopards and lions, is always preferable, for one + is free from vermin, and free from curiosity gazers, who in the + village think they have a right to stare, but in the forest feel + that they are not on an equality with strangers.</p> + + <p>[It was on the 18th of July, 1868, we see that Dr. Livingstone + discovered one of the largest of the Central African Lakes. It is + extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and + enthusiasm, as—almost parenthetically—he records the + fact.]</p> + + <p><i>17th and 18th July, 1868.</i>—Reached the chief + village of Mapuni, near the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th + <a name="Page_314" id="Page_314"></a>I walked a little way out + and saw the shores of the Lake for the first time, thankful that + I had come safely hither.</p> + + <p>I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and gave him + a fathom of calico as all I could spare: I told him that as soon + as I had seen and measured the Lake I would return north; he + replied, that seeing our goods were done he could say nothing, he + would give me guides, and what else he should do was known to + himself. He gave a public reception at once. I asked if he had + ever seen anyone like me, and he said, "Never." A Babisa + traveller asked me why I had come so far; I said I wished to make + the country and people better known to the rest of the world, + that we were all children of one Father, and I was anxious that + we should know each other better, and that friendly visits should + be made in safety. I told him what the Queen had done to + encourage the growth of cotton on the Zambezi, and how we had + been thwarted by slave-traders and their abettors: they were + pleased with this. When asked I showed them my note-book, watch, + compass, burning-glass, and was loudly drummed home.</p> + + <p>I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its + contents. I shall require a few days more at Bangweolo than I at + first intended. The moon being in its last stage of waning I + cannot observe till it is of some size.</p> + + <p><i>19th July, 1868.</i>—Went down to Masantu's village, + which is on the shore of the Lake, and by a spring called + Chipoka, which comes out of a mass of disintegrated granite. It + is seldom that we see a spring welling out beneath a rock: they + are covered by oozing sponges, if indeed they exist. Here we had + as a spectator a man walking on stilts tied to his ankles and + knees. There are a great many Babisa among the people. The women + have their hair ornamented with strings of cowries, and well + oiled with the oil and fat from the seeds of the Mosikisi trees. + I sent the chief a fathom of calico, and got an audience at + <a name="Page_315" id="Page_315"></a>once. Masantu is an oldish + man; had never prayed to the Great Father of all, though he said + the footsteps of "Mungu," or Mulungu, could be seen on a part of + Lifungé Island: a large footstep may also be seen on the + rock at the Chambezé, about fifteen inches long. He + informed us that the Lake is much the largest at the part called + Bangweolo.</p> + + <p>The country around the Lake is all flat, and very much denuded + of trees, except the Motsikiri or Mosikisi, which has fine dark, + dense foliage, and is spared for its shade and the fatty oil + yielded by its seeds: we saw the people boiling large pots full + of the dark brown fat, which they use to lubricate their hair. + The islands, four in number, are all flat, but well peopled. The + men have many canoes, and are all expert fishermen; they are + called Mboghwa, but are marked on the forehead and chin as + Babisa, and file the teeth to points. They have many children, as + fishermen usually have.</p> + + <p><i>21st July, 1868.</i>—Canoe-men are usually + extortionate, because one cannot do without them. Mapuni claims + authority over them, and sent to demand another fathom that he + may give orders to them to go with us: I gave a hoe and a string + of beads instead, but he insisted on the cloth, and kept the hoe + too, as I could not afford the time to haggle.</p> + + <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Chipoka spring water at 9 A.M. + 75° }</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lake water at same time + 71° } air 72°.</span><br /> + <br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Chipoka spring at 4 P.M. 74° + 5' }</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lake water at same time + 75° } air 71° 5'; wet bulb + 70°.</span><br /></p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="fp316" id="fp316"></a> <img src="images/fp316.jpg" + width="500" height="285" alt="Discovery of Lake Bangweolo." + title="Discovery of Lake Bangweolo." /><br /> + <b>Discovery of Lake + Bangweolo.</b> + </div> + + <p>No hot fountains or earthquakes are known in this region. The + bottom of the Lake consists of fine white sand, and a broad belt + of strong rushes, say 100 yards wide, shows shallow water. In the + afternoons quite a crowd of canoes anchor at its outer edge to + angle; the hooks are like ours, but without barbs. The fish are + perch chiefly, but others similar to those that appear in the + other Lakes are found, <a name="Page_316" id="Page_316"></a>and + two which attain the large size of 4 feet by 1-1/2 in. thickness: + one is called Sampa.</p> + + <p><i>22nd July, 1868.</i>—A very high wind came with the + new moon, and prevented our going, and also the fishermen from + following their calling. Mapuni thought that we meant to make, an + escape from him to the Babisa on the south, because we were + taking our goats, I therefore left them and two attendants at + Masantu's village to assure him.</p> + + <p><i>23rd July, 1868.</i>—Wind still too strong to go. + Took lunars.</p> + + <p><i>24th July, 1868.</i>—Wind still strong.</p> + + <p><i>25th July, 1868.</i>—Strong S.E. wind still blowing, + but having paid the canoe-men amply for four days with beads, and + given Masantu a hoe and beads too, we embarked at 11.40 A.M. in a + fine canoe, 45 feet long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad. The + waves were high, but the canoe was very dry and five stout men + propelled her quickly towards an opening in Lifungé + Island, on our S.E. Here we stopped to wood, and I went away to + look at the island, which had the marks of hippopotami and a + species of jackal on it: it had hard wiry grass, some flowers, + and a species of Gapparidaceous tree. The trees showed well the + direction of the prevailing wind to be south-east, for the + branches on that side were stunted or killed, while those on the + north-west ran out straight, and made the trees appear, as + sailors say, lopsided: the trunks too were bent that way.</p> + + <p>The canoe-men now said that they would start, then that they + would sleep here, because we could not reach the Island Mpabala + before dark, and would not get a hut. I said that it would be + sleeping out of doors only in either case, so they went. We could + see the island called Kisi on our east, apparently a double + island, about 15 miles off, and the tops of the trees barely + visible on Mpabala on our south-east. It was all sea horizon on + our south and north, between Lifungé and Mpabala, and + between Lifungé and Kisi. We could not go to Kisi, + because, as the canoe-men <a name="Page_317" id= + "Page_317"></a>told us, they had stolen their canoe thence. + Though we decided to go, we remained awhile to let the sea go + down. A hammerhead's nest on one of the trees was fully four feet + high. Coarse rushes show the shoals near the islands. Only one + shell was seen on the shores. The canoe ships much less water in + this surf than our boat did in that of Nyassa. The water is of a + deep sea-green colour, probably from the reflection of the fine + white sand of the bottom; we saw no part having the deep dark + blue of Nyassa, and conjecture that the depth is not great; but I + had to leave our line when Amoda absconded. On Kisi we observed a + dark square mass, which at first I took to be a low hill: it + turned out to be a mass of trees (probably the place of + sepulture, for the graveyards are always untouched), and shows + what a dense forest this land would become were it not for the + influence of men.</p> + + <p>We reached Mpabala after dark. It was bitterly cold, from the + amount of moisture in the air. I asked a man who came to see what + the arrival was, for a hut; he said, "Do strangers require huts, + or ask for them at night?" he then led us to the public place of + meeting, called Nsaka, which is a large shed, with planks around + and open spaces between, instead of walls; here we cooked a + little porridge, and ate it, then I lay down on one side, with + the canoe-men and my attendants at the fire in the middle, and + was soon asleep, and dreamed that I had apartments in Mivart's + Hotel. This made me feel much amused next day, for I never dream + unless I am ill, or going to be ill; and of all places in the + world, I never thought of Mivart's Hotel in my waking moments; a + freak of the fancy surely, for I was not at all discontented with + my fare, or apartment, I was only afraid of getting a stock of + vermin from my associates.</p> + + <p><i>26th July, 1868.</i>—I have to stand the stare of a + crowd of people at every new place for hours: all usually talk as + <a name="Page_318" id="Page_318"></a>quickly as their glib + tongues can; these certainly do not belong to the tribes who are + supposed to eke out their language by signs! A few indulge their + curiosity in sight-seeing, but go on steadily weaving nets, or by + beating bark-cloth, or in spinning cotton, others smoke their big + tobacco pipes, or nurse a baby, or enjoy the heat of the bright + morning sun. I walked across the north end of the island, and + found it to be about one mile broad, I also took bearings of + Chirubi Island from the eastern point of Mpabala, and found from + the south-east point of Chirubi that there are 183° of sea + horizon from it to the point of departure of the Luapula. Chirubi + is the largest of the islands, and contains a large population, + possessing many sheep and goats. At the highest part of Mpabala + we could see the tops of the trees on Kasango, a small + uninhabited islet, about thirty miles distant: the tops of the + trees were evidently lifted up by the mirage, for near the shore + and at other parts they were invisible, even with a good glass. + This uninhabited islet would have been our second stage had we + been allowed to cross the Lake, as it is of the people + themselves; it is as far beyond it to the mainland, called Manda, + as from Masantu's to Mpabala.</p> + + <p><i>27th July, 1868.</i>—Took lunars and stars for + latitude.</p> + + <p>The canoe-men now got into a flurry, because they were told + here that the Kisi men had got an inkling that their canoe was + here, and were coming to take it; they said to me that they would + come back for me, but I could not trust thieves to be so honest. + I thought of seizing their paddles, and appealing to the headmen + of the island; but aware from past experience how easy it is for + acknowledged thieves like them to get up a tale to secure the + cheap sympathy of the soft-headed, or tender-hearted, I resolved + to bear with meekness, though groaning inwardly, the loss of two + of the four days for which I had paid them. I had only my + coverlet to hire another canoe, and it was now very cold; + <a name="Page_319" id="Page_319"></a>the few beads left would all + be required to buy food in the way back, I might have got food by + shooting buffaloes, but that on foot and through grass, with + stalks as thick as a goose quill, is dreadfully hard work; I had + thus to return to Masantu's, and trust to the distances as + deduced from the time taken by the natives in their canoes for + the size of the Lake.</p> + + <p>We had come to Mpabala at the rate of six knots an hour, and + returned in the same time with six stout paddlers. The latitude + was 12' in a south-east course, which may give 24' as the actual + distance. To the sleeping-place, the Islet Kasango, there was at + least 28' more, and from thence to the mainland "Manda," other + 28'. This 24 + 28 + 28 = 80' as the breadth from Masantu village, + looking south-east. It lies in 11° 0' S. If we add on the + half distance to this we have 11° 40' as the latitude of + Manda. The mainland to the south of Mpabala is called + Kabendé. The land's end running south of Masantu's village + is the entrance to the Luapula: the clearest eye cannot see + across it there. I saw clouds as if of grass burning, but they + were probably "Kungu," an edible insect, whose masses have + exactly the same appearance as they float above and on the water. + From the time the canoes take to go to Kabendé I believe + the southern shore to be a little into 12° of south latitude: + the length, as inferred from canoes taking ten days to go from + Mpabala to the Chambezé, I take to be 150 miles, probably + more. No one gave a shorter time than that. The Luapula is an arm + of the Lake for some twenty miles, and beyond that is never + narrower than from 180 to 200 yards, generally much broader, and + may be compared with the Thames at London Bridge: I think that I + am considerably within the mark in setting down Bangweolo as 150 + miles long by 80 broad.</p> + + <p>When told that it contained four large islands, I imagined + that these would considerably diminish the watery <a name= + "Page_320" id="Page_320"></a>acreage of the whole, as is said to + be the case with five islands in Ukerewé; but even the + largest island, Chirubi, does not in the least dwarf the enormous + mass of the water of Bangweolo. A range of mountains, named + Lokinga, extends from the south-east to the south-west: some + small burns come down from them, but no river; this range joins + the Koné, or Mokoné range, west of Katanga, from + which on one side rises the Lufira, and on the other the Liambai, + or Zambesi. The river of Manda, called Matanga, is only a + departing and re-entering branch of the Lake, also the Luma and + Loéla rivers—some thirty yards broad—have each + to be examined as springs on the south of the Lake.</p> + + <p><i>July 29th, 1868.</i>—Not a single case of Derbyshire + neck, or of Elephantiasis, was observed anywhere near the Lake, + consequently the report we had of its extreme unhealthiness was + erroneous: no muddy banks did we see, but in the way to it we had + to cross so many sponges, or oozes, that the word + <i>matopé</i>, mud, was quite applicable; and I suspect, + if we had come earlier, that we should have experienced great + difficulty in getting to the Lake at all.</p> + + <p><i>30th July, 1868.</i>—We commenced our march back, + being eager to get to Chikumbi's in case Mohamad should go thence + to Katanga. We touched at Mapuni's, and then went on to the + Molongosi. Clouds now began to cover the sky to the Mpanda, which + has fifteen yards of flood, though the stream itself is only five + yards wide, then on to the Mato and Moiéggé's + stockade, where we heard of Chikumbi's attack on Kombokombo's. + Moiéggé had taken the hint, and was finishing a + second line of defence around his village: we reached him on the + 1st August, 1868, and stopped for Sunday the 2nd: on the 3rd back + to the Rofubu, where I was fortunate enough to hire a canoe to + take me over.</p> + + <p>In examining a tsetse fly very carefully I see that it has a + receptacle at the root of the piercer, which is of a black or + dark-red colour; and when it is squeezed, a clear fluid is + <a name="Page_321" id="Page_321"></a>pressed out at its point: + the other two parts of the proboscis are its shield, and have no + bulb at the base. The bulb was pronounced at the Royal Society to + be only muscle, but it is curious that muscle should be furnished + where none is needed, and withheld in the movable parts of the + shield where it is decidedly needed.</p> + + <p><i>5th August, 1868.</i>—Reach Kombokombo, who is very + liberal, and pressed us to stay a day with him as well as with + others; we complied, and found that Mohamad had gone nowhere.</p> + + <p><i>7th August, 1868.</i>—We found a party starting from + Kizinga for the coast, having our letters with them; it will take + five months to reach the sea. The disturbed state of the country + prevented parties of traders proceeding in various directions, + and one that set off on the same day with us was obliged to + return. Mohamad has resolved to go to Manyuema as soon as parties + of his men now out return: this is all in my favour; it is in the + way I want to go to see the Lualaba and Lufira to + Chowambé. The way seems opening out before me, and I am + thankful. I resolved to go north by way of Casembe, and guides + were ready to start, so was I; but rumours of war where we were + going induced me to halt to find out the truth: the guides + (Banyamwezi) were going to divine, by means of a cock, to see if + it would be lucky to go with me at present. The rumours of danger + became so circumstantial that our fence was needed: a well was + dug inside, and the Banyamwezi were employed to smelt copper as + for the market of Manyuema, and balls for war. Syde bin Omar soon + came over the Luapula from Iramba, and the state of confusion + induced the traders to agree to unite their forces and make a + safe retreat out of the country. They objected very strongly to + my going away down the right bank of the Luapula with my small + party, though it was in sight, so I resolved to remain till all + went.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322"></a><i>13th August, + 1868.</i>—The Banyamwezi use a hammer shaped like a cone, + without a handle. They have both kinds of bellows, one of + goatskin the other of wood, with a skin over the mouth of a drum, + and a handle tied to the middle of it; with these they smelt + pieces of the large bars of copper into a pot, filled nearly full + of wood ashes. The fire is surrounded by masses of anthills, and + in these there are hollows made to receive the melted metal: the + metal is poured while the pot is held with the hands, protected + by wet rags.</p> + + <p><i>15th August, 1868.</i>—Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from + Muaboso on Chambezé in six days, crossing in that space + twenty-two burns or oozes, from knee to waist deep.</p> + + <p>Very high and cold winds prevail at present. It was proposed + to punish Chikumbi when Syde bin Omar came, as he is in debt and + refuses payment; but I go off to Casembe.</p> + + <p>I learn that there is another hot fountain in the Baloba + country, called Fungwé; this, with Kapira and Vana, makes + three hot fountains in this region.</p> + + <p>Some people were killed in my path to Casembe, so this was an + additional argument against my going that way.</p> + + <p>Some Banyamwezi report a tribe—the Bonyolo—that + extract the upper front teeth, like Batoka; they are near Loanda, + and Lake Chipokola is there, probably the same as Kinkonza. + Feeling my way. All the trees are now pushing out fresh young + leaves of different colours: winds S.E. Clouds of upper stratum + N.W.</p> + + <p><i>29th August, 1868.</i>—Kaskas began to-day hot and + sultry. This will continue till rains fall. Rumours of wars + perpetual and near; and one circumstantial account of an attack + made by the Bausé. That again contradicted. <i>(31st + August, 1868.)</i> Rain began here this evening, quite remarkable + and exceptional, as it precedes the rains generally off the + watershed by two months at least: it was a thunder <a name= + "Page_323" id="Page_323"></a>shower, and it and another on the + evening of the second were quite partial.</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p>[As we shall see, he takes advantage of his late experience to + work out an elaborate treatise on the climate of this region, + which is exceedingly important, bearing, as it does, upon the + question of the periodical floods on the rivers which drain the + enormous cistern-lakes of Central Africa.]</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p>The notion of a rainy zone, in which the clouds deposit their + treasures in perpetual showers, has received no confirmation from + my observations. In 1866-7, the rainfall was 42 inches. In + 1867-8, it amounted to 53 inches: this is nearly the same as + falls in the same latitudes on the West Coast. In both years the + rains ceased entirely in May, and with the exception of two + partial thunder showers on the middle of the watershed, no rain + fell till the middle and end of October, and then, even in + November, it was partial, and limited to small patches of + country; but scarcely a day passed between October and May + without a good deal of thunder. When the thunder began to roll or + rumble, that was taken by the natives as an indication of the + near cessation of the rains. The middle of the watershed is the + most humid part: one sees the great humidity of its climate at + once in the trees, old and young, being thickly covered with + lichens; some flat, on the trunks and branches; others long and + thready, like the beards of old men waving in the wind. Large + orchids on the trees in company with the profusion of lichens are + seen nowhere else, except in the mangrove swamps of the + sea-coast.</p> + + <p>I cannot account for the great humidity of the watershed as + compared with the rest of the country, but by the prevailing + winds and the rains being from the south-east, and thus from the + Indian Ocean: with this wind generally on the surface one can + observe an upper strong wind from the <a name="Page_324" id= + "Page_324"></a>north-west, that is, from the low humid West Coast + and Atlantic Ocean. The double strata of winds can easily be + observed when there are two sheets of clouds, or when burning + grass over scores of square miles sends up smoke sufficiently + high to be caught by the upper or north-west wind. These winds + probably meet during the heavy rains: now in August they overlap + each other. The probability arises from all continued rains + within the tropics coming in the opposite direction from the + prevailing wind of the year. Partial rains are usually from the + south-east.</p> + + <p>The direction of the prevailing wind of this region is well + marked on the islands in Lake Bangweolo: the trunks are bent away + from the south-east, and the branches on that side are stunted or + killed; while those on the north-west run out straight and make + the trees appear lopsided. The same bend away from the south-east + is seen on all exposed situations, as in the trees covering the + brow of a hill. At Kizinga, which is higher than the Lake, the + trees are covered with lichens, chiefly on the south-east sides, + and on the upper surfaces of branches, running away horizontally + to or from the north-west. Plants and trees, which elsewhere in + Africa grow only on the banks of streams and other damp + localities, are seen flourishing all over the country: the very + rocks are covered with lichens, and their crevices with + ferns.</p> + + <p>But that which demonstrates the humidity of the climate most + strikingly is the number of earthen sponges or oozes met with. In + going to Bangweolo from Kizinga, I crossed twenty-nine of these + reservoirs in thirty miles of latitude, on a south-east course: + this may give about one sponge for every two miles. The word + "Bog" conveys much of the idea of these earthen sponges; but it + is inseparably connected in our minds with peat, and these + contain not a particle of peat, they consist of black porous + earth, covered with a hard wiry grass, and a few other + damp-loving plants. <a name="Page_325" id="Page_325"></a>In many + places the sponges hold large quantities of the oxide of iron, + from the big patches of brown haematite that crop out everywhere, + and streams of this oxide, as thick as treacle, are seen moving + slowly along in the sponge-like small red glaciers. When one + treads on the black earth of the sponge, though little or no + water appears on the surface, it is frequently squirted up the + limbs, and gives the idea of a sponge. In the paths that cross + them, the earth readily becomes soft mud, but sinks rapidly to + the bottom again, as if of great specific gravity: the water in + them is always circulating and oozing. The places where the + sponges are met with are slightly depressed valleys without trees + or bushes, in a forest country where the grass being only a foot + or fifteen inches high, and thickly planted, often looks like a + beautiful glade in a gentleman's park in England. They are from a + quarter of a mile to a mile broad, and from two to ten or more + miles long. The water of the heavy rains soaks into the level + forest lands: one never sees runnels leading it off, unless + occasionally a footpath is turned to that use. The water, + descending about eight feet, comes to a stratum of yellow sand, + beneath which there is another stratum of fine white sand, which + at its bottom cakes, so as to hold the water from sinking + further.</p> + + <p>It is exactly the same as we found in the Kalahari Desert, in + digging sucking places for water for our oxen. The water, both + here and there, is guided by the fine sand stratum into the + nearest valley, and here it oozes forth on all sides through the + thick mantle of black porous earth, which forms the sponge. + There, in the desert, it appears to damp the surface sands in + certain valleys, and the Bushmen, by a peculiar process, suck out + a supply. When we had dug down to the caked sand there years ago, + the people begged us not to dig further, as the water would all + run away; and we desisted, because we saw that the fluid poured + in from the fine sand all round the well, but none came from + <a name="Page_326" id="Page_326"></a>the bottom or cake. Two + stupid Englishmen afterwards broke through the cake in spite of + the entreaties of the natives, and the well and the whole valley + dried up hopelessly. Here the water, oozing forth from the + surface of the sponge mantle, collects in the centre of the + slightly depressed valley which it occupies, and near the head of + the depression forms a sluggish stream; but further down, as it + meets with more slope, it works out for itself a deeper channel, + with perpendicular banks, with, say, a hundred or more yards of + sponge on each side, constantly oozing forth fresh supplies to + augment its size. When it reaches rocky ground it is a perennial + burn, with many aquatic plants growing in its bottom. One + peculiarity would strike anyone: the water never becomes + discoloured or muddy. I have seen only one stream muddied in + flood, the Choma, flowing through an alluvial plain in + Lopéré. Another peculiarity is very remarkable; it + is, that after the rains have entirely ceased, these burns have + their largest flow, and cause inundations. It looks as if towards + the end of the rainy season the sponges were lifted up by the + water off their beds, and the pores and holes, being enlarged, + are all employed to give off fluid. The waters of inundation run + away. When the sponges are lifted up by superabundance of water, + all the pores therein are opened: as the earthen mantle subsides + again, the pores act like natural valves, and are partially + closed, and by the weight of earth above them, the water is thus + prevented from running away altogether; time also being required + to wet all the sand through which the rains soak, the great + supply may only find its way to the sponge a month or so after + the great rains have fallen.</p> + + <p>I travelled in Lunda, when the sponges were all + supersaturated. The grassy sward was so lifted up that it was + separated into patches or tufts, and if the foot missed the row + of tufts of this wiry grass which formed the native path, down + one plumped up to the thigh in slush. At that time <a name= + "Page_327" id="Page_327"></a>we could cross the sponge only by + the native paths, and the central burn only where they had placed + bridges: elsewhere they were impassable, as they poured off the + waters of inundation: our oxen were generally bogged—all + four legs went down up to the body at once. When they saw the + clear sandy bottom of the central burn they readily went in, but + usually plunged right over head, leaving their tail up in the air + to show the nervous shock they had sustained.</p> + + <p>These sponges are a serious matter in travelling. I crossed + the twenty-nine already mentioned at the end of the fourth month + of the dry season, and the central burns seemed then to have + suffered no diminution: they were then from calf to waist deep, + and required from fifteen to forty minutes in crossing; they had + many deep holes in the paths, and when one plumps therein every + muscle in the frame receives a painful jerk. When past the + stream, and apparently on partially dry ground, one may jog in a + foot or more, and receive a squirt of black mud up the thighs: it + is only when you reach the trees and are off the sour land that + you feel secure from mud and leeches. As one has to strip the + lower part of the person in order to ford them, I found that + often four were as many as we could cross in a day. Looking up + these sponges a bird's-eye view would closely resemble the + lichen-like vegetation of frost on window panes; or that + vegetation in Canada-balsam which mad philosophical instrument + makers <i>will</i> put between the lenses of the object-glasses + of our telescopes. The flat, or nearly flat, tops of the + subtending and transverse ridges of this central country give + rise to a great many: I crossed twenty-nine, a few of the feeders + of Bangweolo, in thirty miles of latitude in one direction. Burns + are literally innumerable: rising on the ridges, or as I formerly + termed them mounds, they are undoubtedly the primary or ultimate + sources of the Zambezi, Congo, and Nile: by <a name="Page_328" + id="Page_328"></a>their union are formed streams of from thirty + to eighty or 100 yards broad, and always deep enough to require + either canoes or bridges. These I propose to call the secondary + sources, and as in the case of the Nile they are drawn off by + three lines of drainage, they become the head waters (the + <i>caput</i> Nili) of the river of Egypt.</p> + + <p>Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has watched + over and enabled me to discover what I have done. There is still + much to do, and if health and protection be granted I shall make + a complete thing of it.</p> + + <p>[Then he adds in a note a little further on:—]</p> + + <p>But few of the sponges on the watershed ever dry; elsewhere + many do; the cracks in their surface are from 15 to 18 inches + deep, with lips from 2 to 3 inches apart. Crabs and other animals + in clearing out their runs reveal what I verified by actually + digging wells at Kizinga and in Kabuiré, and also observed + in the ditches 15 feet deep dug by the natives round many of + their stockades, that the sponge rests on a stratum of fine white + washed sand. These cracks afford a good idea of the effect of the + rains: the partial thunder-showers of October, November, + December, and even January, produce no effect on them; it is only + when the sun begins to return from his greatest southern + declination that the cracks close their large lips. The whole + sponge is borne up, and covers an enormous mass of water, oozing + forth in March and April forming the inundations. These floods in + the Congo, Zambesi, and Nile require different times to reach the + sea. The bulk of the Zambesi is further augmented by the greater + rains finding many pools in the beds of its feeders filled in + February, as soon as the sun comes north.</p> + + <p><i>Mem.</i>—In apparent contradiction of the foregoing, + so far as touches the sources of the Zambesi, Syde bin Habib + informed me a few days ago that he visited the sources <a name= + "Page_329" id="Page_329"></a>of the Liambai and of the Lufira. + Each comes out of a fountain; the Lufira one is called Changozi, + and is small, and in a wood of large trees S.W. of Katanga; the + fountain of the Liambai is so large that one cannot call to a + person on the other side, and he appears also very small + there—the two fountains are just five hours distant from + each other. He is well acquainted with the Liambai (Leeambye), + where I first met him. Lunga, another river, comes out of nearly + the same spot which goes into the Leuñge, Kafué + (?). Lufira is less than Kalongosi up there; that is less than 80 + or 200 yards, and it has deep waterfalls in it. The Koné + range comes down north, nearly to Mpméto's. Mkana is the + chief of the stone houses in the Baloba, and he may be reached by + three days of hard travelling from Mpwéto's; Lufira is + then one long day west. As Muabo refuses to show me his "mita," + "miengelo," or "mpamankanana" as they are called, I must try and + get to those of the Baloba of Mkana.</p> + + <p>Senegal swallows pair in the beginning of December.</p> + + <p><i>Note</i>.—Inundation.</p> + + <p>The inundation I have explained in the note on the climate as + owing to the sponges being supersaturated in the greater rains, + when the sun returns from his greatest southern declination, the + pores are then all enlarged, and the water of inundation flows in + great volume even after the rains have entirely ceased. Something + has probably to be learned from the rainfall at or beyond the + equator, as the sun pursues his way north beyond my beat, but the + process I have named accounts undoubtedly for the inundations of + the Congo and Zambesi. The most acute of the ancients ascribed + the inundation with Strabo to summer rains in the south; others + to snows melting on the Mountains of the Moon; others to the + northern wind—the Etesian breezes blowing directly against + the mouth of the river and its current: others, with less reason, + ascribed the <a name="Page_330" id="Page_330"></a>inundation to + its having its source in the ocean: Herodotus and Pliny to + evaporation following the course of the sun.</p> + + <p><i>1st September, 1868.</i>—Two men come from + Casembe—I am reported killed. The miningo-tree distils + water, which falls in large drops. The Luapula seen when the + smoke clears off. Fifty of Syde bin Omar's people died of + small-pox in Usafa. <i>Mem.</i> Vaccine virus. We leave on the + 25th, east bank of Moisi River, and cross the Luongo on the 28th, + the Lofubu on the 1st October, and the Kalongosi on the 7th.</p> + + <p>[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been unable to find opportunity + to make daily entries at this period. All was turmoil and panic, + and his life appears to have been in imminent danger. Briefly we + see that on his way back from the Lake he found that his Arab + associates of the last few months had taken up Casembe's cause + against the devastating hordes of Mazitu, who had swept down on + these parts, and had repulsed them. But now a fresh complication + arose! Casembe and Chikumbi became alarmed lest the Arabs, + feeling their own power, should turn upon them and possess the + whole country, so they joined forces and stormed Kombokombo, one + of the leading Arabs, and with what success we shall see. It is a + fair specimen of the unaccountable complications which dog the + steps of the traveller, where war is afoot, and render life a + misery. He writes as follows on the 5th October:—]</p> + + <p>I was detained in the Imbozhwa country much longer than I + relished. The inroad of the Mazitu, of which Casembe had just + heard when we reached the Mofwé, was the first cause of + delay: he had at once sent off men to verify the report, and + requested me to remain till his messengers should return. This + foray produced a state of lawlessness in the country, which was + the main reason of our further detention.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331"></a>The Imbozhwa fled before + the marauders, and the Banyamwezi or Garaganza, who had come in + numbers to trade in copper, took on themselves the duty of + expelling the invaders, and this, by means of their muskets, they + did effectually, then, building stockades they excited the + jealousy of the Imbozhwa lords of the soil who, instead of + feeling grateful, hated the new power thus sprung up among them! + They had suffered severely from the sharp dealing of the + strangers already, and Chikumbi made a determined assault on the + stockade of Kombokombo in vain.</p> + + <p>Confusion prevailed all over the country. Some Banyamwezi + assumed the offensive against the Baüsi, who resemble the + Imbozhwa, but are further south, and captured and sold some + prisoners: it was in this state of things that, as already + mentioned, I was surrounded by a party of furious Imbozhwa. A + crowd stood within fifteen or twenty yards with spears poised and + arrows set in the bowstrings, and some took aim at me: they took + us for plunderers, and some plants of ground-nuts thrown about + gave colour to their idea. One good soul helped us away—a + blessing be on him and his. Another chief man took us for Mazitu! + In this state of confusion Cazembe heard that my party had been + cut off: he called in Moenempanda and took the field in person, + in order to punish the Banyamwezi, against whom he has an old + grudge for killing a near relative of his family, selling + Baüsi, and setting themselves up as a power in his + country.</p> + + <p>The two Arab traders now in the country felt that they must + unite their forces, and thereby effect a safe retreat. Chikumbi + had kept twenty-eight tusks for Syde bin Omar safely; but the + coming of Casembe might have put it out of his power to deliver + up his trust in safety, for an army here is often quite lawless: + each man takes to himself what he can. When united we marched + from Kizinga on 23rd <a name="Page_332" id= + "Page_332"></a>September together, built fences every night to + protect ourselves and about 400 Banyamwezi, who took the + opportunity to get safely away. Kombokombo came away from his + stockade, and also part of the way, but cut away by night across + country to join the parties of his countrymen who still love to + trade in Katanga copper. We were not molested, but came nearly + north to the Kalongosi. Syde parted from us, and went away east + to Mozamba, and thence to the coast.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> The + allusion is to Mrs. Livingstone's grave.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> At one + season the long grass which covers the face of the country + catches fire. For some three months the air is consequently + filled with smoke.—ED.</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><a name= + "Page_333" id="Page_333"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed. + Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves + escape. Enormous collection of tusks. III. Theory of the Nile + sources. Tribute to Miss Tinné. Notes on climate. + Separation of Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on + Victoria Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad + Bogharib. Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed + attack. A parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the + Imbozhwa country. Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's + brother. Singular custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. + Rumour of Baker's Expedition. Christmas dinners.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>11th October, 1868.</i>—From Kizinga north the + country is all covered with forest, and thrown up into ridges of + hardened sandstone, capped occasionally with fine-grained clay + schist. Trees often appear of large size and of a species closely + resembling the gum-copal tree; on the heights masukos and + rhododendrons are found, and when exposed they are bent away from + the south-east. Animals, as buffaloes and elephants, are + plentiful, but wild. Rivulets numerous, and running now as + briskly as brooks do after much rain in England. All on the + south-western side of Kalongosi are subjects of Casembe, that is + Balunda, or Imbozhwa.</p> + + <p>It was gratifying to see the Banyamwezi carrying their sick in + cots slung between two men: in the course of time they tired of + this, and one man, who was carried several days, remained with + Chuma. We crossed the Luongo far above where we first became + acquainted with it, and near its source in Urungu or Usungu + Hills, then the Lobubu, <a name="Page_334" id="Page_334"></a>a + goodly stream thirty yards broad and rapid with fine falls above + our ford, which goes into Kalongosi.</p> + + <p><i>6th October, 1868.</i>—Cross the Papusi, and a mile + beyond the Luéna of forty yards and knee deep; here we + were met by about 400 of Kabanda's men, as if they were come to + dispute our passage at the ford: I went over; all were civil; but + had we shown any weakness they would no doubt have taken + advantage of it.</p> + + <p><i>7th October, 1868.</i>—We came to the Kalongosi, + flowing over five cataracts made by five islets in a place called + Kabwérumé. Near the Mebamba a goodly rivulet joins + it.</p> + + <p><i>12th October, 1868.</i>—We came to the Kalongosi at + the ford named Mosolo: by pacing I found it to be 240 yards + broad, and thigh deep at the end of the dry season, it ran so + strongly that it was with difficulty I could keep my feet. Here + 500 at least of Nsama's people stood on the opposite shore to + know what we wanted. Two fathoms of calico were sent over, and + then I and thirty guns went over to protect the people in the + ford: as we approached they retired. I went to them, and told + them that I had been to Nsama's, and he gave me a goat and food, + and we were good friends: some had seen me there, and they now + crowded to look till the Arabs thought it unsafe for me to be + among them: if I had come with bared skin they would have fled. + All became friendly: an elephant was killed, and we remained two + days buying food. We passed down between the ranges of hills on + the east of Moero, the path we followed when we first visited + Casembe.</p> + + <p><i>20th and 21st October, 1868.</i>—From the Luao I went + over to the chief village of Muabo, and begged him to show me the + excavations in his country: he declined, by saying that I came + from a crowd of people, and must go to Kabwabwata, and wait + awhile there, meanwhile he would think what he should do, whether + to refuse or invite me to come. He <a name="Page_335" id= + "Page_335"></a>evidently does not wish me to see his strongholds. + All his people could go into them, though over ten thousand: they + are all abundantly supplied with water, and they form the + storehouses for grain.</p> + + <p><i>22nd October, 1868.</i>—We came to Kabwabwata, and I + hope I may find a way to other underground houses. It is probable + that they are not the workmanship of the ancestors of the present + occupants, for they ascribe their formation invariably to the + Deity, Mulungu or Réza: if their forefathers had made + them, some tradition would have existed of them.</p> + + <p><i>23rd October, 1868.</i>—Syde bin Habib came over from + Mpwéto's; he reports Lualaba and Lufira flowing into the + Lake of Kinkonza. Lungabalé is paramount chief of Rua.</p> + + <p>Mparahala horns measured three feet long and three inches in + diameter at the base: this is the yellow kualata of Makololo, + bastard gemsbuck of the Dutch.</p> + + <p><i>27th, 29th, and 30th October, 1868.</i>—Salem bin + Habib was killed by the people in Rua: he had put up a tent and + they attacked it in the night, and stabbed him through it. Syde + bin Habib waged a war of vengeance all through Rua after this for + the murder of his brother: Sef's raid may have led the people to + the murder.</p> + + <p><i>29th October, 1868.</i>—In coming north in September + and October, the last months of the dry season, I crossed many + burns flowing quite in the manner of our brooks at home, after a + great deal of rain; here, however, the water was clear, and the + banks not abraded in the least. Some rivulets had a tinge of + white in them, as if of felspar in disintegrating granite; some + nearly stagnant burns had as if milk and water in them, and some + red oxide of iron.</p> + + <p>Where leeches occur they need no coaxing to bite, but fly at + the white skin like furies, and refuse to let go: with the + fingers benumbed, though the water is only 60°, one may twist + them round the finger and tug, but they slip <a name="Page_336" + id="Page_336"></a>through. I saw the natives detaching them with + a smart slap of the palm, and found it quite effectual.</p> + + <p>Swifts, Senegal swallows, and common dark-bellied swallows + appeared at Kizinga in the beginning of October: other birds, as + drongo shrikes, a bird with a reddish bill, but otherwise like a + grey linnet, keep in flocks yet. <i>(5th December.)</i> They pair + now. The kite came sooner than the swallows; I saw the first at + Bangweolo on the 20th July, 1868.</p> + + <p><i>1st November, 1868.</i>—At Kabwabwata; we are waiting + till Syde comes up that we may help him. He has an enormous + number of tusks and bars of copper, sufficient it seems for all + his people to take forward, going and returning three times over. + He has large canoes on the Lake, and will help us in return.</p> + + <p><i>2nd November, 1868.</i>—News came yesterday from + Mpwéto's that twenty-one slaves had run away from Syde bin + Habib at one time: they were Rua people, and out of the chains, + as they were considered safe when fairly over the Lualaba, but + they showed their love of liberty on the first opportunity. + Mpwéto is suspected to have harboured them, or helped them + over the river; this will probably lead to Syde attacking him, as + he has done to so many chiefs in Rua. In this case Mpwéto + will have no sympathy; he is so wanting in the spirit of + friendliness to others.</p> + + <p><i>3rd November, 1868.</i>—Sent off men to hasten Syde + onwards. We start in two or three days.</p> + + <p>The oldest map known to be in existence is the map of the + Ethiopian Goldmines, dating from the time of Sethos I., the + father of Rameses II., long enough before the time of the bronze + tablet of Aristagoras, on which was inscribed the circuit of the + whole earth, and all the sea and all rivers. (Tylor, p. 90, + quoted from Birch's <i>Archaeologia</i>, vol. xxxiv. p. 382.) + Sesostris was the first to distribute his maps.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337"></a><i>8th November, + 1868.</i>—Syde bin Habib is said to have amassed 150 + frasilahs of ivory = 5250 lbs., and 300 frasilahs of copper = + 10,500 lbs. With one hundred carriers he requires to make four + relays, or otherwise make the journey four times over at every + stage. Twenty-one of his slaves ran away in one night, and only + four were caught again: they were not all bought, nor was the + copper and ivory come at by fair means; the murder of his brother + was a good excuse for plunder, murder, and capture. Mpwéto + is suspected of harbouring them as living on the banks of the + Lualaba, for they could not get over without assistance from his + canoes and people. Mpwéto said, "Remove from me, and we + shall see if they come this way." They are not willing to deliver + fugitives up. Syde sen£ for Elmas, the only thing of the + Mullam or clerical order here, probably to ask if the Koran + authorizes him to attack Mpwéto. Mullam will reply, "Yes, + certainly. If Mpwéto won't restore your slaves, take what + you can by force." Syde's bloodshed is now pretty large, and he + is becoming afraid for his own life; if he ceases not, he will + himself be caught some day.</p> + + <p>Ill of fever two days. Better and thankful.</p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>[Whilst waiting to start for Ujiji, Livingstone was intently + occupied on the great problem of the Nile and the important + part he had taken so recently in solving it: he writes at this + date as follows:—]</p> + </div> + + <p>The discovery of the sources of the Nile is somewhat akin in + importance to the discovery of the North-West Passage, which + called forth, though in a minor degree, the energy, the + perseverance, and the pluck of Englishmen, and anything that does + that is beneficial to the nation and to its posterity. The + discovery of the sources of the Nile possesses, moreover, an + element of interest which the North-<a name="Page_338" id= + "Page_338"></a>West Passage never had. The great men of antiquity + have recorded their ardent desires to know the fountains of what + Homer called "<i>Egypt's heaven-descended spring.</i>" Sesostris, + the first who in camp with his army made and distributed maps, + not to Egyptians only, but to the Scythians, naturally wished to + know the springs, says Eustathius, of the river on whose banks he + flourished. Alexander the Great, who founded a celebrated city at + this river's-mouth, looked up the stream with the same desire, + and so did the Caesars. The great Julius Caesar is made by Lucan + to say that he would give up the civil war if he might but see + the fountains of this far-famed river. Nero Caesar sent two + centurions to examine the "<i>Caput Nili</i>." They reported that + they saw the river rushing with great force from two rocks, and + beyond that it was lost in immense marshes. This was probably + "native information," concerning the cataracts of the Nile and a + long space above them, which had already been enlarged by others + into two hills with sharp conical tops called Crophi and + Mophi—midway between which lay the fountains of the + Nile—fountains which it was impossible to fathom, and which + gave forth half their water to Ethiopia in the south, and the + other half to Egypt in the north: that which these men failed to + find, and that which many great minds in ancient times longed to + know, has in this late age been brought to light by the patient + toil and laborious perseverance of Englishmen.<a name= + "FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p> + + <p>In laying a contribution to this discovery at the feet of his + countrymen, the writer desires to give all the honour to his + predecessors which they deserve. The work of Speke <a name= + "Page_339" id="Page_339"></a>and Grant is deserving of the + highest commendation, inasmuch as they opened up an immense tract + of previously unexplored country, in the firm belief they were + bringing to light the head of the Nile. No one can appreciate the + difficulties of their feat unless he has gone into new country. + In association with Captain Burton, Speke came much nearer to the + "coy fountains," than at the Victoria Nyanza, but they all turned + their backs on them. Mr. Baker showed courage and perseverance + worthy of an Englishman in following out the hints given by Speke + and Grant. But none rises higher in my estimation than the Dutch + lady Miss Tinné, who, after the severest domestic + afflictions, nobly persevered in the teeth of every difficulty, + and only turned away from the object of her expedition, after + being assured by Speke and Grant that they had already discovered + in Victoria Nyanza the sources she sought. Had they not given + their own mistaken views, the wise foresight by which she + provided a steamer, would inevitably have led her to pull up, and + by canoes to reach Lake Bangweolo's sources full five hundred + miles south of the most southerly part of Victoria Nyanza. She + evidently possesses some of the indomitable pluck of Van Tromp, + whose tomb every Englishman who goes to Holland must see.<a name= + "FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> Her doctor was made a + baron—were she not a Dutch lady already we think she ought + to be made a duchess.</p> + + <p>By way of contrast with what, if I live through it, I shall + have to give, I may note some of the most prominent ideas + entertained of this world-renowned river. Ptolemy, a geographer + who lived in the second century, and was not a king of Egypt, + with the most ancient maps made the Nile rise from the "Montes + Lunae," between ten and twelve south lat., by six several streams + which flowed north into <a name="Page_340" id="Page_340"></a>two + Lakes, situated east and west of each other. These streams flowed + about west of his river Rhapta, or Raptus, which is probably our + Rovuma or Louma. This was very near the truth, but the Mountains + of the Moon cannot be identified with the Lokinga, or mountains + of Bisa, from which many of the springs do actually arise. + Unless, indeed, we are nearer to the great alterations in climate + which have taken place, as we are supposed to be nearer the epoch + of the mammoth, aurochs, and others. Snow never lay in these + latitudes, on altitudes of 6000 feet above the sea.</p> + + <p>Some of the ancients supposed the river to have its source in + the ocean. This was like the answer we received long ago from the + natives on the Liambai or Upper Zambesi when inquiring for its + source. "It rises in Leoatlé, the white man's sea, or + Métséhula." The second name means the "<i>grazing + water</i>," from the idea of the tides coming in to graze; as to + the freshness of the Liambai waters, they could offer no + explanation.</p> + + <p>Some again thought that the Nile rose in Western Africa, and + after flowing eastwards across the Continent, turned northwards + to Egypt; others still thought that it rose in India! and others + again, from vague reports collected from their slaves, made it + and several other rivers rise but of a great inland sea. + <i>Achélunda</i> was said to be the name of this Lake, and + in the language of Angola, it meant the "sea." It means only + "<i>of</i>" or "<i>belonging to Lunda</i>," a country. It might + have been a sea that was spoken of on a whole, or anything. + "<i>Nyassi, or the sea</i>," was another name and another + blunder. "Nyassi" means long grass, and nothing else. Nyanza + contracted into Nyassa, means lake, marsh, any piece of water, or + even the dry bed of a lake. The <i>N</i> and <i>y</i> are joined + in the mouth, and never pronounced separately. The + "Naianza"!—it would be nearer the mark to say the + Nancy!</p> + + <p><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341"></a>Of all theoretical + discoverers, the man who ran in 200 miles of Lake and placed them + on a height of some 4000 feet at the north-west end of Lake + Nyassa, deserves the highest place. Dr. Beke, in his guess, came + nearer the sources than most others, but after all he pointed out + where they would not be found. Old Nile played the theorists a + pretty prank by having his springs 500 miles south of them all! I + call mine a contribution, because it is just a hundred years + (1769) since Bruce, a greater traveller than any of us, visited + Abyssinia, and having discovered the sources of the Blue Nile, he + thought that he had then solved the ancient problem. Am I to be + cut out by some one discovering southern fountains of the river + of Egypt, of which I have now no conception?</p> + + <p>David Livingstone.</p> + + <p>[The tiresome procrastination of Mohamad and his horde was not + altogether an unmixed evil. With so many new discoveries in hand + Livingstone had an opportunity for working out several problems, + and instituting comparisons between the phenomena of Inner Africa + and the well-marked changes which go on in other parts of the + world. We find him at this time summing them up as + follows:—]</p> + + <p>The subject of change of climate from alteration of level has + not received the investigation it deserves. Mr. Darwin saw reason + to believe that very great alterations of altitude, and of course + of climate, had taken place in South America and the islands of + the Pacific; the level of a country above the sea I believe he + thought to be as variable as the winds. A very great alteration + of altitude has also taken place in Africa; this is apparent on + the sea-coast of Angola, and all through the centre of the + country, where large rivers which once flowed southwards and + westwards are no longer able to run in these directions: the + general desiccation of the country, <a name="Page_342" id= + "Page_342"></a>as seen in the beds of large rivers and of + enormous lakes, tells the same tale. Portions of the east coast + have sunk, others have risen, even in the Historic Period. The + upper or northern end of the Red Sea has risen, so that the place + of the passage of the children of Israel is now between forty and + fifty miles from Suez, the modern head of the Gulf. This + upheaval, and not the sand from the desert, caused the disuse of + the ancient canal across the Isthmus: it took place since the + Mohamadan conquest of Egypt. The women of the Jewish captivities + were carried past the end of the Red Sea and along the + Mediterranean in ox-waggons, where such cattle would now all + perish for want of water and pasture; in fact, the route to + Assyria would have proved more fatal to captives then than the + middle passage has been to Africans since. It may be true that, + <i>as the desert is now</i>, it could not have been traversed by + the multitude under Moses—the German strictures put forth + by Dr. Colenso, under the plea of the progress of science, assume + that no alteration has taken place in either desert or + climate—but a scientific examination of the subject would + have ascertained what the country was then when it afforded + pasture to "flocks and herds, and even very much cattle." We know + that Eziongeber was, with its docks, on the seashore, with water + in abundance for the ship-carpenters: it is now far from the head + of the Elaic Gulf in a parched desert. Aden, when visited by the + Portuguese Balthazar less than 300 years ago, was a perfect + garden; but it is now a vast conglomeration of black volcanic + rocks, with so little vegetation, that, on seeing flocks of goats + driven out, I thought of the Irish cabman at an ascent slamming + the door of his cab and whispering to his fare, "Whish, it's to + desave the baste: he thinks that you are out walking." Gigantic + tanks in great numbers and the ruins of aqueducts appear as + relics of the past, where no rain now falls for three or more + years at a time. They have all dried up by a change <a name= + "Page_343" id="Page_343"></a>of climate, possibly similar and + cotemporaneous with that which has dried up the Dead Sea.</p> + + <p>The journey of Ezra was undertaken after a fast at the River + Ahava. With nearly 50,000 people he had only about 8000 beasts of + burden. He was ashamed to ask a band of soldiers and horsemen for + protection in the way. It took about four months to reach + Jerusalem; this would give five and a half or six miles a day, as + the crow flies, which is equal to twelve or fifteen miles of + surface travelled over; this bespeaks a country capable of + yielding both provisions and water, such as cannot now be found. + Ezra would not have been ashamed to ask for camels to carry + provisions and water had the country been as dry as it is now. + The prophets, in telling all the woes and miseries of the + captivities, never allude to suffering or perishing by thirst in + the way, or being left to rot in the route as African slaves are + now in a well-watered country. Had the route to Assyria been then + as it is now, they could scarcely have avoided referring to the + thirst of the way; but everything else is mentioned except + that.</p> + + <p>Respecting this system of Lakes in the centre of Africa, it + will possibly occur to some that Lake Nyassa may give a portion + of its water off from its northern end to the Nile, but this + would imply a Lake giving off a river at both ends; the country, + too, on the north-north-west and north-east rises to from 4000 to + 6000 feet above the sea, and there is not the smallest indication + that Nyassa and Tanganyika were ever connected. Lake Liemba is + the most southerly part of Tanganyika; its latitude is 8° 46' + south; the most northerly point of Lake Nyassa is probably + 10° 56'-8° 46' = 2° 10'. Longitude of Liemba 34° + 57'-31° 57' = 3° 00' = 180' of longitude. Of latitude + 130' + 180' = 310', two-thirds of which is about 206', the + distance between two Lakes; and no evidence of fissure, rent, or + channel now appears on the highland between.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344"></a>Again, Liemba is 3000 + feet above the sea. The altitude of Nyassa is 1200/x800 feet. + Tanganyika would thus go to Nyassa—down the Shiré + into the Zambesi and the sea, if a passage existed even below + ground.</p> + + <p>The large Lake, said to exist to the north-west of Tanganyika + might, however, send a branch to the Nile; but the land rises up + into a high ridge east of this Lake.</p> + + <p>It is somewhat remarkable that the impression which + intelligent Suaheli, who have gone into Karagwé, have + received is, that the Kitangulé flows from Tanganyika into + Lake Ukerewé. One of Syde bin Omar's people put it to me + very forcibly the other day by saying, "Kitangulé is an + arm of Tanganyika!" He had not followed it out; but that Dagara, + the father of Rumanyika, should have in his lifetime seriously + proposed to deepen the upper part of it, so as to allow canoes to + pass from his place to Ujiji, is very strong evidence of the + river being large on the Tanganyika side. We know it to be of + good size, and requiring canoes on the Ukerewé side. + Burton came to the very silly conclusion that when a native said + a river ran one way, he meant that it flowed in the opposite + direction. Ujiji, in Rumanyika's time, was the only mart for + merchandise in the country. Garaganza or Galaganza has most trade + and influence now. (<i>14th Sept., 1868.</i>)</p> + + <p>Okara is the name by which Victoria Nyanza is known on the + eastern side, and an arm of it, called Kavirondo, is about forty + miles broad. Lake Baringo is a distinct body of water, some fifty + miles broad, and giving off a river called Ngardabash, which + flows eastwards into the Somauli country. Lake Naibash is more to + the east than Kavirondo, and about fifty miles broad too: it + gives off the River Kidété, which is supposed to + flow into Lufu. It is south-east of Kavirondo; and Kilimanjaro + can be seen from its shores; in the south-east Okara, Naibash and + Baringo seem to have been run by Speke into one Lake. Okara, in + the south, <a name="Page_345" id="Page_345"></a>is full of large + islands, and has but little water between them; that little is + encumbered with aquatic vegetation called "Tikatika," on which, + as in lakelet Gumadona, a man can walk. Waterlilies and duckweed + are not the chief part of this floating mass. In the north Okara + is large. Burukineggé land is the boundary between the + people of Kavirondo and the Gallahs with camels and horses.</p> + + <p><i>9th November, 1868.</i>—Copied several Notes written + at Kizinga and elsewhere, and at Kabwabwata resume Journal. Some + slight showers have cooled the air a little: this is the hottest + time of the year.</p> + + <p><i>10th November, 1868.</i>—A heavier shower this + morning will have more of the same effect.</p> + + <p><i>11th November, 1868.</i>—Muabo visited this village, + but refuses to show his underground houses.</p> + + <p><i>13th November, 1868.</i>—I was on the point of + starting without Mohamad Bogharib, but he begged me not to go + till he had settled some weighty matter about a wife he is to get + at Ujiji from Mpamari; we must have the new moon, which will + appear in three days, for lucky starting, and will leave Syde bin + Habib at Chisabi's. Meanwhile two women slaves ran away, and Syde + has got only five back of his twenty-one fugitives. Mullam was + mild with his decisions, and returned here; he informed me that + many of Syde's slaves, about forty, fled. Of those who cannot + escape many die, evidently broken-hearted; they are captives, and + not, as slaves often are, criminals sold for their guilt, hence + the great mortality caused by being taken to the sea to be, as + they believe, fatted and eaten. Poor things! Heaven help + them!</p> + + <p>Ujiji is the pronunciation of the Banyamwezi; and they call + the people Wayeiyé, exactly as the same people styled + themselves on the River Zougha, near Ngami.</p> + + <p>[It will be remembered that several of his men refused to + <a name="Page_346" id="Page_346"></a>go to Lake Bangweolo with + him: they seem now to have thought better of it, and on his + return are anxious to come back to their old master who, for his + part, is evidently willing to overlook a good deal.]</p> + + <p>I have taken all the runaways back again; after trying the + independent life they will behave better. Much of their ill + conduct may be ascribed to seeing that after the flight of the + Johanna men I was entirely dependent on them: more enlightened + people often take advantage of men in similar circumstances; + though I have seen pure Africans come out generously to aid one + abandoned to their care. I have faults myself.</p> + + <p><i>15th November, 1868.</i>—The Arabs have some + tradition of the Emir Musa coming as far south as the Jagga + country. Some say he lived N.E. of Sunna, now Mtéza; but + it is so mixed up with fable and tales of the Genii (Mageni), + that it cannot refer to the great Moses, concerning whose + residence at Meröe and marriage of the king of Ethiopia's + daughter there is also some vague tradition further north: the + only thing of interest to me is the city of Meröe, which is + lost, and may, if built by ancient Egyptians, still be found.</p> + + <p>The Africans all beckon with the hand, to call a person, in a + different way from what Europeans do. The hand is held, as + surgeons say, <i>prone</i>, or palm down, while we beckon with + the hand held <i>supine</i>, or palm up: it is quite natural in + them, for the idea in their mind is to lay the hand on the person + and draw him towards them. If the person wished for is near, say + forty yards off, the beckoner puts out his right hand on a level + with his breast, and makes the motion of catching the other by + shutting the fingers and drawing him to himself: if the person is + further off, this motion is exaggerated by lifting up the right + hand as high as he can; he brings it down with a sweep towards + the ground, the hand being still held prone as before. In + <a name="Page_347" id="Page_347"></a>nodding assent they differ + from us by lifting up the chin instead of bringing it down as we + do. This lifting up the chin looks natural after a short usage + therewith, and is perhaps purely conventional, not natural, as + the other seems to be.</p> + + <p><i>16th November, 1868.</i>—I am tired out by waiting + after finishing the Journal, and will go off to-morrow north. + Simon killed a zebra after I had taken the above resolution, and + this supply of meat makes delay bearable, for besides flesh, of + which I had none, we can buy all kinds of grain and pulse for the + next few days. The women of the adjacent villages crowd into this + as soon as they hear of an animal killed, and sell all the + produce of their plantations for meat.</p> + + <p><i>17th November, 1868.</i>—It is said that on the road + to the Great Salt Lake in America the bones and skulls of animals + lie scattered everywhere, yet travellers are often put to great + straits for fuel: this, if true, is remarkable among a people so + apt in turning everything to account as the Americans. When we + first steamed up the River Shiré our fuel ran out in the + elephant marsh, where no trees exist, and none could be reached + without passing through many miles on either side of impassable + swamp, covered with reeds, and intersected everywhere with deep + branches of the river. Coming to a spot where an elephant had + been slaughtered, I at once took the bones on board, and these, + with the bones of a second elephant, enabled us to steam briskly + up to where wood abounded. The Scythians, according to Herodotus, + used the bones<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id= + "FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class= + "fnanchor">[68]</a> of the animal sacrificed to boil the flesh, + the Guachos of South America do the same when they have no fuel: + the ox thus boils himself.</p> + + <p><i>18th November, 1868.</i>—A pretty little woman ran + away from her husband, and came to "Mpamari." Her husband brought + three hoes, a checked cloth, and two strings of large neck + <a name="Page_348" id="Page_348"></a>beads to redeem her; but + this old fellow wants her for himself, and by native law he can + keep her as his slave-wife. Slave-owners make a bad + neighbourhood, for the slaves, are always running away and the + headmen are expected to restore the fugitives for a bit of cloth. + An old woman of Mpmari fled three times; she was caught + yesterday, and tied to a post for the young slaves to plague her. + Her daughter burst into an agony of tears on seeing them tying + her mother, and Mpamari ordered her to be tied to the mother's + back for crying; I interceded for her, and she was let go. He + said, "You don't care, though Sayed Majid loses his money." I + replied, "Let the old woman go, she will be off again to-morrow." + But they cannot bear to let a slave have freedom. I don't + understand what effect his long prayers and prostrations towards + the "Kibla" have on his own mind, they cannot affect the minds of + his slaves favourably, nor do they mine, though I am as + charitable as most people.</p> + + <p><i>19th November, 1868.</i>—I prepared to start to-day, + but Mohamad Bogharib has been very kind, and indeed cooked meals + for me from my arrival at Casembe's, 6th May last, till we came + here, 22nd October; the food was coarse enough, but still it was + food; and I did not like to refuse his genuine hospitality. He + now begged of me not to go for three days, and then he would come + along with me! Mpamari also entreated. I would not have minded + him, but they have influence with the canoe-men on Tanganyika, + and it is well not to get a bad name if possible.</p> + + <p><i>20th November, 1868.</i>—Mohamad Bogharib purposed to + attack two villages near to this, from an idea that the people + there concealed his runaway slaves; by remaining I think that I + have put a stop to this, as he did not like to pillage while I + was in company: Mpamari also turned round towards peace, though + he called all the riff-raff to muster, and caracoled among them + like an old broken-winded horse. One <a name="Page_349" id= + "Page_349"></a>man became so excited with yelling, that the + others had to disarm him, and he then fell down as if in a fit; + water poured on his head brought him to calmness. We go on the + 22nd.</p> + + <p><i>22nd November, 1868.</i>—This evening the Imbozhwa, + or Babemba, came at dusk, and killed a Wanyamwezi woman on one + side of the village, and a woman and child on the other side of + it. I took this to be the result of the warlike demonstration + mentioned above; but one of Mohamad Bogharib's people, named Bin + Juma, had gone to a village on the north of this and seized two + women and two girls, in lieu of four slaves who had run away. The + headman, resenting this, shot an arrow into one of Bin Junta's + party, and Bin Juma shot a woman with his gun.</p> + + <p>This, it turned out, had roused the whole country, and next + morning we were assailed by a crowd of Imbozhwa on three sides: + we had no stockade, but the men built one as fast as the enemy + allowed, cutting down trees and carrying them to the line of + defence, while others kept the assailants at bay with their guns. + Had it not been for the crowd of Banyamwezi which we have, who + shot vigorously with their arrows, and occasionally chased the + Imbozhwa, we should have been routed. I did not go near the + fighting, but remained in my house to defend my luggage if + necessary. The women went up and down the village with sieves, as + if winnowing, and singing songs, and lullilooing, to encourage + their husbands and friends who were fighting, each had a branch + of the Ficus indica in her hand, which she waved, I suppose as a + charm. About ten of the Imbozhwa are said to have been killed, + but dead and wounded were at once carried off by their + countrymen. They continued the assault from early dawn till 1 + P.M., and showed great bravery, but they wounded only two with + their arrows. Their care to secure the wounded was admirable: two + or three at once seized the fallen man, and ran off with him, + though pursued by a great crowd of Banyamwezi with spears, and + fired at by <a name="Page_350" id="Page_350"></a>the + Suaheli—Victoria-cross fellows truly many of them were! + Those who had a bunch of animals' tails, with medicine, tied to + their waists, came sidling and ambling up to near the unfinished + stockade, and shot their arrows high up into the air, to fall + among the Wanyamwezi, then picked up any arrows on the field, ran + back, and returned again. They thought that by the ambling gait + they avoided the balls, and when these whistled past them they + put down their heads, as if to allow them to pass over; they had + never encountered guns before. We did not then know it, but + Muabo, Phuta, Ngurué, Sandaruko, and Chapi, were the + assailants, for we found it out by the losses each of these five + chiefs sustained.</p> + + <p>It was quite evident to me that the Suaheli Arabs were quite + taken aback by the attitude of the natives; they expected them to + flee as soon as they heard a gun fired in anger, but instead of + this we were very nearly being cut off, and should have been but + for our Banyamwezi allies. It is fortunate that the attacking + party had no success in trying to get Mpwéto and + Karembwé to join them against us, or it would have been + more serious still.</p> + + <p><i>24th November, 1868.</i>—The Imbozhwa, or Babemba + rather, came early this morning, and called on Mohamad to come + out of his stockade if he were a man who could fight, but the + fence is now finished, and no one seems willing to obey the + taunting call: I have nothing to do with it, but feel thankful + that I was detained, and did not, with my few attendants, fall + into the hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. They kept up the + attack to-day, and some went out to them, fighting till noon: + when a man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi brought + his head and put it on a pole on the stockade—six heads + were thus placed. A fine young man was caught and brought in by + the Wanyamwezi, one stabbed him behind, another cut his forehead + with an axe, I called in vain to them not to kill him. As a last + appeal, <a name="Page_351" id="Page_351"></a>he said to the crowd + that surrounded him, "Don't kill me, and I shall take you to + where the women are." "You lie," said his enemies; "you intend to + take us where we may be shot by your friends;" and they killed + him. It was horrible: I protested loudly against any repetition + of this wickedness, and the more sensible agreed that prisoners + ought not to be killed, but the Banyamwezi are incensed against + the Babemba because of the women killed on the 22nd.</p> + + <p><i>25th November, 1868.</i>—The Babemba kept off on the + third day, and the Arabs are thinking it will be a good thing if + we get out of the country unscathed. Men were sent off on the + night of the 23rd to Syde bin Habib for powder and help. Mohamad + Bogharib is now unwilling to take the onus of the war: he blames + Mpamari, and Mpamari blames him; I told Mohamad that the war was + undoubtedly his work, inasmuch as Bin Juma is his man, and he + approved of his seizing the women.</p> + + <p>He does not like this, but it is true; he would not have + entered a village of Casembe or Moamba or Chikumbi as he did + Chapi's man's village: the people here are simply men of more + metal than he imagined, and his folly in beginning a war in + which, if possible, his slaves will slip through his hands is + apparent to all, even to himself. Syde sent four barrels of + gunpowder and ten men, who arrived during last night.</p> + + <p><i>27th November, 1868.</i>—Two of Muabo's men came over + to bring on a parley; one told us that he had been on the south + side of the village before, and heard one man say to another "mo + pigé" (shoot him). Mpamari gave them a long oration in + exculpation, but it was only the same everlasting, story of + fugitive slaves. The slave-traders cannot prevent them from + escaping, and impudently think that the country people ought to + catch them, and thus be their humble servants, and also the + persecutors of their own countrymen! If they cannot keep them, + why buy them—why put their money into a bag with holes?</p> + + <p><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352"></a>It is exactly what took + place in America—slave-owners are bad neighbours + everywhere. Canada was threatened, England browbeaten, and the + Northerners all but kicked on the same score, and all as if + property in slaves had privileges which no other goods have. To + hear the Arabs say of the slaves after they are fled, "Oh, they + are bad, bad, very bad!" (and they entreated me too to free them + from the yoke), is, as the young ladies say, "too absurd." The + chiefs also who do not apprehend fugitives, they too are + "bad."</p> + + <p>I proposed to Mohamad Bogharib to send back the women seized + by Bin Juma, to show the Babemba that he disapproved of the act + and was willing to make peace, but this was too humiliating; I + added that their price as slaves was four barrels of gunpowder or + 160 dollars, while slaves lawfully bought would have cost him + only eight or ten yards of calico each. At the conclusion of + Mpamari's speech the four barrels of gunpowder were exhibited, + and so was the Koran, to impress them (Muabo's people) with an + idea of their great power.</p> + + <p><i>28th and 29th November, 1868.</i>—It is proposed to + go and force our way if we can to the north, but all feel that + that would be a fine opportunity for the slaves to escape, and + they would not be loth to embrace it; this makes it a serious + matter, and the Koran is consulted at hours which are + auspicious.</p> + + <p><i>30th November, 1868.</i>—Messengers sent to Muabo to + ask a path, or in plain words protection from him; Mpamari + protests his innocence of the whole affair.</p> + + <p><i>1st December, 1868.</i>—Muabo's people over again; + would fain send them to make peace with Chapi!</p> + + <p><i>2nd December, 1868.</i>—The detention is excessively + vexatious to me. Muabo sent three slaves as offers of + peace—a fine self-imposed, but he is on our south side, and + we wish to go north.</p> + + <p><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353"></a><i>3rd December, + 1868.</i>—A party went to-day to clear the way to the + north, but were warmly received by Babemba with arrows; they came + back with one woman captured, and they say that they killed one + man: one of themselves is wounded, and many others in danger: + others who went east were shot at, and wounded too.</p> + + <p><i>4th December, 1868.</i>—A party went east, and were + fain to flee from the Babemba, the same thing occurred on our + west, and to-day <i>(5th)</i> all were called to strengthen the + stockade for fear that the enemy may enter uninvited. The slaves + would certainly flee, and small blame to them though they did. + Mpamari proposed to go off north by night, but his people + objected, as even a child crying would arouse the Babemba, and + reveal the flight, so finally he sent off to ask Syde what he + ought to do, whether to retire by day or by night; probably + entreating Syde to come and protect him.</p> + + <p>A sort of idol is found in every village in this part, it is + of wood, and represents the features, markings and fashion of the + hair of the inhabitants: some have little huts built for + them—others are in common houses. The Babemba call them + <i>Nkisi</i> ("Sancan" of the Arabs): the people of Rua name one + <i>Kalubi</i>; the plural, <i>Tulubi</i>; and they present pombe, + flour, bhang, tobacco, and light a fire for them to smoke by. + They represent the departed father or mother, and it is supposed + that they are pleased with the offerings made to their + representatives, but all deny that they pray to them. Casembe has + very many of these Nkisi; one with long hair, and named + <i>Motombo</i>, is carried in front when he takes the field; + names of dead chiefs are sometimes given to them. I have not met + with anyone intelligent enough to explain if prayers are ever + made to anyone; the Arabs who know their language, say they have + no prayers, and think that at death there is an end of the whole + man, but other things lead me to believe this is erroneous. + Slaves <a name="Page_354" id="Page_354"></a>laugh at their + countrymen, in imitation of their masters, and will not reveal + their real thoughts: one said that they believed in two Superior + Beings—Réza above, who kills people, and Réza + below, who carries them away after death.</p> + + <p><i>6th December, 1868.</i>—Ten of Syde bin Habib's + people came over, bringing a letter, the contents of which + neither Mpamari nor Mohamad cares to reveal. Some think, with + great probability, that he asks, "Why did you begin a war if you + wanted to leave so soon? Did you not know that the country people + would take advantage of your march, encumbered as you will be by + women and slaves?" Mohamad Bogharib called me to ask what advice + I could give him, as all his own advice, and devices too, had + been lost or were useless, and he did not know what to do. The + Banyamwezi threatened to go off by night and leave him, as they + are incensed against the Babemba, and offended because the Arabs + do not aid them in wreaking their vengeance upon them.</p> + + <p>I took care not to give any advice, but said, if I had been or + was in his place, I would have sent or would send back Bin Juma's + captives, to show that I disapproved of his act—the first + in the war—and was willing to make peace with Chapi. He + said that he did not know that Bin Juma would capture these + people; that Bin Juma had met some natives with fish, and took + ten by force, that the natives, in revenge, caught three + Banyamwezi slaves, and Bin Juma then gave one slave to them as a + fine, but Mohamad did not know of this affair either. I am of + opinion, however, that he was fully aware of both matters, and + Mpamari's caracoling showed that he knew it all, though now he + denies it.</p> + + <p>Bin Juma is a long, thin, lanky Suaheli, six feet two high, + with a hooked nose and large lips: I told Mohamad that if he were + to go with us to Manyuema, the whole party would be cut off. He + came here, bought a slave-boy, and <a name="Page_355" id= + "Page_355"></a>allowed him to escape; then browbeat Chapi's man + about him (and he says, three others); and caught ten in lieu of + him, of which Mohamad restored six: this was the origin of the + war. Now that we are in the middle of it, I must do as Mohamad + does in going off either by day or by night. It is unreasonable + to ask my advice now, but it is felt that they have very + unjustifiably placed me in a false position, and they fear that + Syed Majid will impute blame to them, meanwhile Syde bin Habib + sent a private message to me to come with his men to him, and + leave this party.</p> + + <p>I perceive that the plan now is to try and clear our way of + Chapi, and then march, but I am so thoroughly disgusted with this + slave-war, that I think of running the risk of attack by the + country people, and go off to-morrow without Mohamad Bogharib, + though I like him much more than I do Mpamari or Syde bin Habib. + It is too glaring hypocrisy to go to the Koran for guidance while + the stolen women, girls, and fish, are in Bin Juma's hands.</p> + + <p><i>8th and 9th December, 1868.</i>—I had to wait for the + Banyamwezi preparing food: Mohamad has no authority over them, or + indeed over anyone else. Two Babemba men came in and said that + they had given up fighting, and begged for their wives, who had + been captured by Syde's people on their way here: this reasonable + request was refused at first, but better counsels prevailed, and + they were willing to give something to appease the anger of the + enemy, and sent back six captives, two of whom were the wives + prayed for.</p> + + <p>[At last he makes a start on the 11th of December with the + Arabs, who are bound eastwards for Ujiji. It is a motley group, + composed of Mohamad and his friends, a gang of Unyamwezi + hangers-on, and strings of wretched slaves yoked together in + their heavy slave-sticks. Some <a name="Page_356" id= + "Page_356"></a>carry ivory, others copper, or food for the march, + whilst hope and fear, misery and villainy, may be read off on the + various faces that pass in line out of this country, like a + serpent dragging its accursed folds away from the victim it has + paralysed with its fangs.]</p> + <hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + <p><i>11th December, 1868.</i>—We marched four hours + unmolested by the natives, built a fence, and next day crossed + the Lokinda River and its feeder the Mookosi; here the people + belonged to Chisabi, who had not joined the other Babemba. We go + between two ranges of tree-covered mountains, which are + continuations of those on each side of Moero.</p> + + <p><i>12th December, 1868.</i>—The tiresome tale of slaves + running away was repeated again last night by two of Mpamari's + making off, though in the yoke, and they had been with him from + boyhood. Not one good-looking slave-woman is now left of Mohamad + Bogharib's fresh slaves; all the pretty ones obtain favour by + their address, beg to be unyoked, and then escape. Four hours + brought us to many villages of Chisabi and the camp of Syde bin + Habib in the middle of a set-in rain, which marred the + demonstration at meeting with his relative Mpamari; but the women + braved it through, wet to the skin, and danced and lullilooed + with "draigled" petticoats with a zeal worthy of a better cause, + as the "penny-a-liners" say. It is the custom for the trader who + receives visitors to slaughter goats, and feed all his guests for + at least two days, nor was Syde wanting in this hospitality, + though the set-in rain continuing, we did not enjoy it as in fine + weather.</p> + + <p><i>14th December, 1868.</i>—Cotton-grass and brackens + all over the country show the great humidity of Marungu. Rain + daily; but this is not the great rain which falls when the sun + comes back south over our heads.</p> + + <p><i>15th December, 1868.</i>—March two hours only to the + range of Tamba. A pretty little light-grey owl, called + "nkwékwé," <a name="Page_357" id="Page_357"></a>was + killed by a native as food; a black ring round its face and its + black ears gave it all the appearance of a cat, whose habits it + follows.</p> + + <p><i>16th to 18th December, 1868.</i>—A brother of Syde + bin Habib died last night: I had made up my mind to leave the + whole party, but Syde said that Chisabi was not to be trusted, + and the death of his brother having happened, it would not be + respectful to leave him to bury his dead alone. Six of his slaves + fled during the night—one, the keeper of the others. A + Mobemba man, who had been to the coast twice with him, is said to + have wished a woman who was in the chain, so he loosed five out, + and took her off; the others made clear heels of it, and now that + the grass is long and green, no one can trace their course.</p> + + <p>Syde told me that the slaves would not have detained him, but + his brother's death did. We buried the youth, who has been ill + three months. Mpamari descended into the grave with four others; + a broad cloth was held over them horizontally, and a little + fluctuation made, as if to fan those who were depositing the body + in the side excavation made at the bottom: when they had finished + they pulled in earth, and all shoved it towards them till the + grave was level. Mullam then came and poured a little water into + and over the grave, mumbled a few prayers, at which Mpamari said + aloud to me, "Mullam does not let his voice be heard;" and Mullam + smiled to me, as if to say, "Loud enough for all I shall get:" + during the ceremony the women were all wailing loudly. We went to + the usual sitting-place, and shook hands with Syde, as if + receiving him back again into the company of the living.</p> + + <p>Syde told me previously to this event that he had fought the + people who killed his elder brother Salem bin Habib, and would + continue to fight them till all their country was spoiled and a + desolation: there is no forgiveness with Moslems for bloodshed. + He killed many, and took many <a name="Page_358" id= + "Page_358"></a>slaves, ivory, and copper: his tusks number over + 200, many of large size.</p> + + <p><i>19th and 20th December, 1868.</i>—To Chisabi's + village stockade, on the left bank of the Lofunso, which flows in + a marshy valley three miles broad. Eight of Mohamad Bogharib's + slaves fled by night, one with his gun and wife; a, large party + went in search, but saw nothing of them.</p> + + <p>To-day an elephant was killed, and they sent for the meat, but + Chisabi ordered the men to let his meat alone: experience at + Kabwabwata said, "Take the gentle course," so two fathoms of + calico and two hoes were sent to propitiate the chief; Chisabi + then demanded half the meat and one tusk: the meat was given, but + the tusk was mildly refused: he is but a youth, and this is only + the act of his counsellors. It was replied that Casembe, + Chikumbi, Nsama, Meréré, made no demand at all: his + counsellors have probably heard of the Portuguese self-imposed + law, and wish to introduce it here, but both tusks were + secured.</p> + + <p><i>22nd December, 1868.</i>—We crossed the Lofunso + River, wading three branches, the first of forty-seven yards, + then the river itself, fifty yards, and neck deep to men and + women of ordinary size. Two were swept away and drowned; other + two were rescued by men leaping in and saving them, one of whom + was my man Susi. A crocodile bit one person badly, but was + struck, and driven off. Two slaves escaped by night; a woman + loosed her husband's yoke from the tree, and got clear off.</p> + + <p><i>24th December, 1868.</i>—Five sick people detain us + to-day; some cannot walk from feebleness and purging brought on + by sleeping on the damp ground without clothes.</p> + + <p>Syde bin Habib reports a peculiar breed of goats in Rua, + remarkably short in the legs, so much so, that they cannot travel + far; they give much milk, and become very fat, but the meat is + indifferent. Gold is found at Katanga in the pool of a waterfall + only: it probably comes from the rocks <a name="Page_359" id= + "Page_359"></a>above this. His account of the Lofu, or, as he + says, West Lualaba, is identical with that of his cousin, Syde + bin Omar; it flows north, but west of Lufira, into the Lake of + Kinkonza, so named after the chief. The East Lualaba becomes very + large, often as much as six or eight miles broad, with many + inhabited islands, the people of which, being safe from invasion, + are consequently rapacious and dishonest, and their chiefs, + Moengé and Nyamakunda, are equally lawless. A hunter, + belonging to Syde, named Kabwebwa, gave much information gleaned + during his hunting trips; for instance, the Lufira has nine + feeders of large size; and one, the Lekulwé, has also nine + feeders; another, the Kisungu, is covered with, "tikatika," by + which the people cross it, though it bends under their weight; he + also ascribes the origin of the Lufira and the Lualaba West, or + Lofu, with the Liambai to one large earthen mound, which he calls + "segulo," or an anthill!</p> + + <p><i>25th December, 1868, Christmas Day.</i>—We can buy + nothing except the very coarsest food—not a goat or + fowl—while Syde, having plenty of copper, can get all the + luxuries. We marched past Mount Katanga, leaving it on our left, + to the River Kapéta, and slaughtered a favourite kid to + make a Christmas dinner. A trading-party came up from Ujiji; they + said that we were ten camps from Tanganyika. They gave an + erroneous report that a steamer with a boat in tow was on Lake + Chowambé—an English one, too, with plenty of cloth + and beads on board. A letter had come from Abdullah bin Salem, + Moslem missionary at Mtésa's, to Ujiji three months ago + with this news.</p> + + <p><i>26th December, 1868.</i>—We marched up an ascent + 2-1/2 hours, and got on to the top of one of the mountain ridges, + which generally run N. and S. Three hours along this level top + brought us to the Kibawé River, a roaring rivulet beside + villages. There were no people on the height over which we came, + though the country is very fine—green and gay <a name= + "Page_360" id="Page_360"></a>with varying shades of that colour. + We passed through patches of brackens five feet high and gingers + in flower, and were in a damp cloud all day. Now and then a + drizzle falls in these parts, but it keeps all damp only, and + does not show in the rain-gauge. Neither sun nor stars + appear.</p> + + <p><i>27th and 28th December, 1868.</i>—Remain on Sunday, + then march and cross five rivulets about four yards wide and knee + deep, going to the Lofunso. The grass now begins to cover and + hide the paths; its growth is very rapid: blobs of water lie on + the leaves all day, and keep the feet constantly wet by falling + as we pass.</p> + + <p><i>29th December, 1868.</i>—We kept well on the ridge + between two ranges of hills; then went down, and found a + partially-burned native stockade, and lodged in it; the fires of + the Ujiji party had set the huts on fire after the party left. We + are in the Itandé district at the Nswiba River.</p> + + <p><i>30th December, 1868.</i>—We now went due east, and + made a good deal of easting too from Mount Katanga on the + Lofunso, and crossed the River Lokivwa, twelve yards wide, and + very deep, with villages all about. We ascended much as we went + east. Very high mountains appeared on the N.W. The woods dark + gieen, with large patches of a paler hue.</p> + + <p><i>31st December, 1868.</i>—We reached the Lofuko + yesterday in a pelting rain; not knowing that the camp with huts + was near, I stopped and put on a bernouse, got wet, and had no + dry clothes. Remain to-day to buy food. Clouds cover all the sky + from N.W. The river, thirty yards wide, goes to Tanganyika east + of this. Scenery very lovely.</p> + + <div class="footnotes"> + <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> In 1827 + Linant reached 13° 30' N. on the White Nile. In 1841 the + second Egyptian, under D'Arnauld and Sabatier, explored the + river to 4° 42' N., and Jomard published his work on + Limmoo and the River Habaiah. Dr. Beke and Mr. D'Abbadie + contributed their share to making the Nile better known. Brun + Rollet established a trading station in 1854 at Belema on the + Nile at 5° N. lat.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> Miss + Tinné succumbed to the dangers of African travelling + before Livingstone penned these just words of + appreciation.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> Ezek. + xxiv. 5.</p> + </div> + </div> + + <h4>END OF VOL. I.</h4> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2), 1866-1868***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 16672-h.txt or 16672-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/6/7/16672</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution.</p> + + + +<pre> +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +<a href="https://gutenberg.org/license">https://gutenberg.org/license)</a>. + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS,' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: +https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Each eBook is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's +eBook number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII, +compressed (zipped), HTML and others. + +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks replace the old file and take over +the old filename and etext number. The replaced older file is renamed. +VERSIONS based on separate sources are treated as new eBooks receiving +new filenames and etext numbers. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">https://www.gutenberg.org</a> + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +EBooks posted prior to November 2003, with eBook numbers BELOW #10000, +are filed in directories based on their release date. If you want to +download any of these eBooks directly, rather than using the regular +search system you may utilize the following addresses and just +download by the etext year. + +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/">https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/</a> + + (Or /etext 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99, + 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90) + +EBooks posted since November 2003, with etext numbers OVER #10000, are +filed in a different way. The year of a release date is no longer part +of the directory path. The path is based on the etext number (which is +identical to the filename). The path to the file is made up of single +digits corresponding to all but the last digit in the filename. For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL">https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL</a> + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** +</pre> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp056.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp056.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29880d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/fp056.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp062.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp062.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bd86b57 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/fp062.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp185.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp185.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1feaddb --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/fp185.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp206.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp206.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..113b997 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/fp206.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp232.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp232.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc13207 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/fp232.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp316.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp316.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a96dae7 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/fp316.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/frontispiece.jpg b/16672-h/images/frontispiece.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..70b4639 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/frontispiece.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p003.jpg b/16672-h/images/p003.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb785e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p003.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p012.jpg b/16672-h/images/p012.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..faeb473 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p012.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p019.png b/16672-h/images/p019.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..494e056 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p019.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p020.png b/16672-h/images/p020.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..76a433b --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p020.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p030.png b/16672-h/images/p030.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0e3d22 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p030.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p049.png b/16672-h/images/p049.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9811d0d --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p049.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p079.png b/16672-h/images/p079.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a70d054 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p079.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p089.png b/16672-h/images/p089.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..25096ae --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p089.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p110.jpg b/16672-h/images/p110.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..958dcd9 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p110.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p125.jpg b/16672-h/images/p125.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19be76b --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p125.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p127.png b/16672-h/images/p127.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed3f9c6 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p127.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p140.png b/16672-h/images/p140.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e76064 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p140.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p146.jpg b/16672-h/images/p146.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..46ed2ba --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p146.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p155.png b/16672-h/images/p155.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52d08fa --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p155.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p185.jpg b/16672-h/images/p185.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d92c88 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p185.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p186.jpg b/16672-h/images/p186.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..60173e9 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p186.jpg diff --git a/16672-h/images/p302.png b/16672-h/images/p302.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb516d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p302.png diff --git a/16672-h/images/p307.jpg b/16672-h/images/p307.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..128aa18 --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-h/images/p307.jpg |
