34 files changed, 39700 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/16672-8.txt b/16672-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..960164f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,12554 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by
+David Livingstone, Edited by Horace Waller
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868
+
+
+Author: David Livingstone
+
+Editor: Horace Waller
+
+Release Date: September 7, 2005  [eBook #16672]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID
+LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2),
+1866-1868***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Steven Gibbs and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 16672-h.htm or 16672-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h/16672-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
+IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.
+
+Continued by a Narrative of His Last Moments and Sufferings,
+Obtained from His Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi,
+
+by
+
+HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,
+Rector Of Twywell, Northampton.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. I.
+[1866-1868]
+
+With Portrait, Maps, and Illustrations.
+
+London:
+John Murray, Albemarle Street.
+
+1874
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the midst of the universal sorrow caused by the intelligence that
+Dr. Livingstone had lost his life at the furthest point to which he
+had penetrated in his search for the true sources of the Nile, a faint
+hope was indulged that some of his journals might survive the
+disaster: this hope, I rejoice to say, has been realized beyond the
+most sanguine expectations.
+
+It is due, in the first place, to his native attendants, whose
+faithfulness has placed his last writings at our disposal, and also to
+the reader, before he launches forth upon a series of travels and
+scientific geographical records of the most extraordinary character,
+to say that in the following narrative of seven years' continuous work
+and new discovery _no break whatever occurs_.
+
+We have not to deplore the loss, by accident or carelessness, of a
+single entry, from the time of Livingstone's departure from Zanzibar
+in the beginning of 1866 to the day when his note-book dropped from
+his hand in the village of Ilala at the end of April, 1873.
+
+I trust it will not be uninteresting if I preface the history with a
+few words on the nature of these journals and writings as they have
+come to hand from Central Africa.
+
+It will be remembered that when Mr. Stanley returned to England in
+1872, Dr. Livingstone entrusted to his care a very large Letts' diary,
+sealed up and consigned to the safe keeping of his daughter, Miss
+Agnes Livingstone. Upon the confirmation of the worst news, this book
+was examined and found to contain a considerable portion of the notes
+which her father made during his travels previous to the time of Mr.
+Stanley's meeting him.
+
+The Doctor's custom was always to have metallic note-books in use, in
+which the day's jottings were recorded. When time and opportunity
+served, the larger volume was posted up with scrupulous care.
+
+It seems, however, that in the last three or four years of his life
+this excellent rule had to give way to the toils of travel and the
+exhaustion of most distressing illnesses. Whilst in the Manyuema
+country he ran out of note-books, ink, and pencils, and had to resort
+to shifts which at first made it a very debateable point whether the
+most diligent attempt at deciphering would suceeed after all. Such
+pocket-books as remained at this period of his travels were utilized
+to the last inch of paper. In some of them we find lunar observations,
+the names of rivers, and the heights of hills advancing towards the
+middle from one end, whilst from the other the itinerary grows day by
+day, interspersed with map routes of the march, botanical notes, and
+carefully made drawings. But in the mean time the middle portion of
+the book was filling up with calculations, private memoranda, words
+intended for vocabularies, and extracts from books, whilst here and
+there the stain of a pressed flower causes indistinctness; yet the
+thread of the narrative runs throughout. Noting but his invariable
+habit of constantly repeating the month and year obviates hopeless
+confusion. Nor is this all; for pocket-books gave out at last, and old
+newspapers, yellow with African damp, were sewn together, and his
+notes were written across the type with a substitute for ink made from
+the juice of a tree. To Miss Livingstone and to the Rev. C.A. Alington
+I am very much indebted for help in the laborious task of deciphering
+this portion of the Doctor's journals. Their knowledge of his
+handwriting, their perseverance, coupled with good eyes and a strong
+magnifying-glass, at last made their task a complete success.
+
+In comparing this great mass of material with the journal brought
+home by Mr. Stanley, one finds that a great deal of most interesting
+matter can be added. It would seem that in the hurry of writing and
+copying despatches previous to his companion's departure, the Doctor
+rapidly entered up as much from his note-books as time and space
+permitted.
+
+Most fortunately, he still carried the greater part of these original
+notes till the time of his death, so that they were forthcoming when
+his effects were subsequently saved.
+
+This brings us to the second instalment of the journals, for we have
+thus acknowledged the first to have reached us on Mr. Stanley's
+return.
+
+When the battered tin travelling-case, which was with Livingstone to
+the last, was opened at the Foreign Office in the spring of this year,
+not only were these valuable papers disclosed which I have mentioned,
+but it was found also that Livingstone had kept a copious journal
+during his stay at Unyanyemb� in some copy-books, and that when his
+stock of note-books was replenished a daily record of his subsequent
+travels had been made.
+
+It was with fear and trembling that one looked to see whether all had
+been saved or only part, but with satisfaction and thankfulness I have
+subsequently discovered that his men preserved every single line,
+besides his maps, which now come to light for the first time.
+
+Thus much on the material of the diaries: it remains to say a few
+words on the Map which accompanies these journals. It has been
+compiled from Dr. Livingstone's original drawings and note-books, with
+the corrections and additions he made from time to time as the work of
+exploration progressed, and the details of physical geography became
+clearer to him. The compiler, Mr. John Bolton[1], implicitly
+following the original outline of the drawing as far as possible, has
+honestly endeavoured to give such a rendering of the entire work, as
+the Doctor would have done had he lived to return home, and
+superintend the construction; and I take this opportunity of
+expressing my sincere gratification that Mr. Bolton's rare technical
+skill, scientific knowledge, and unwearying labour have been available
+for the purpose.
+
+Amongst almost the last words that Livingstone wrote, I find an
+unfinished letter to myself, in which he gives me very clear and
+explicit directions concerning the geographical notes he had
+previously sent home, and I am but carrying out the sacred duty which
+is attached to a last wish when I call attention to the fact, that he
+particularly desired in this letter that _no positions gathered from
+his observations for latitude and longitude, nor for the levels of the
+Lakes, &c., should be considered correct till Sir Thomas Maclear had
+examined them_. The position of Casembe's town, and of a point near
+Pambett� at the S.E., and of Lake Liemba (Tanganyika), have been
+computed and corrected by Sir T. Maclear and Dr. Mann. The
+observations for latitude were taken at short intervals, and where it
+has been possible to test them they have been found very correct, but
+I repeat that until the imprimatur of his old friend at the Cape of
+Good Hope stands over the whole of Livingstone's work, the map must be
+accepted as open to further corrections.
+
+The journey from Kabwabwata to Mparru has been inserted _entirely_
+from notes, as the traveller was too ill to mark the route: this is
+the only instance in all his wanderings where he failed to give some
+indication on his map of the nature of the ground over which he
+passed. The journey front Mikindany Bay to Lake Nyassa has also been
+laid down from his journal and latitudes in consequence of the section
+of this part of his route (which he left at Ujiji) not having arrived
+in England at this date.[2] It will be observed that the outline of
+Lake Nyassa differs from that on any published map: it has been drawn
+from the original exploratory survey of its southern shores made by
+Dr. Livingstone in 1861-3. For some reason this original plan was not
+adhered to by a former draughtsman, but the Lake has here been
+restored to a more accurate bearing and position.
+
+How often shall we see in the pages of this concluding chapter of his
+life, that unwavering determination which was pre-eminently the great
+characteristic of David Livingstone!
+
+Naturally endowed with unusual endurance, able to concentrate
+faculties of no ordinary kind upon whatever he took in hand, and with
+a dread of exaggeration which at times almost militated against the
+importance of some of his greatest discoveries, it may be doubted if
+ever Geographer went forth strengthened with so much true power. Let
+us add to these a sincere trust that slavery, the "great open sore of
+the world," as he called it, might under God's good guidance receive
+healing at his hands; a fervent hope that others would follow him
+after he had removed those difficulties which are comprised in a
+profound ignorance of the physical features of a new country, and we
+have the marching orders of him who left us in August 1865 never to
+return alive.
+
+Privileged to enjoy his near personal friendship for a considerable
+period in Africa, and also at home, it has been easy to trace--more
+especially from correspondence with him of late years--that
+Livingstone wanted just some such gigantic problem as that which he
+attacked at the last to measure his strength against: that he finally
+overrated and overtaxed it I think all must admit.
+
+He had not sufficiently allowed for an old wound which his
+constitution received whilst battling with dysentery and fever, on his
+celebrated journey across Africa, and this finally sapped his vital
+powers, and, through the irritation of exhaustion, insidiously clouded
+much of his happiness.
+
+Many of his old friends were filled with anxiety when they found that
+he intended to continue the investigation of the Nile sources, for the
+letters sent home by Mr. Stanley raised the liveliest apprehensions,
+which, alas! soon proved themselves well grounded.
+
+The reader must be warned that, however versed in books of African
+travel he may be, the very novelty of his situation amongst these
+pages will render him liable perhaps to a danger which a timely word
+may avert. Truly it may be said he has an _embarras de richesses!_ To
+follow an explorer who by his individual exertions has filled up a
+great space in the map of Africa, who has not only been the first to
+set foot on the shores of vast inland seas, but who, with the simple
+appliances of his bodily stature for a sounding pole and his stalwart
+stride for a measuring tape, lays down new rivers by the hundreds, is
+a task calculated to stagger him. It may be provoking to find
+Livingstone busily engaged in bargaining for a canoe upon the shores
+of Bangweolo, much as he would have secured a boat on his own native
+Clyde; but it was not in his nature to be subject to those paroxysms
+in which travellers too often indite their discoveries and
+descriptions.
+
+At the same time these journals will be found to contain innumerable
+notes on the habits of animals, birds, and fishes, many of them
+probably new species, and on phenomena in every direction which the
+keen eye searched out as the great traveller moved amongst some of the
+grandest scenes of this beautiful world: it may be doubted if ever eye
+so keen was backed by so much perseverance to shield it from a mere
+superficial habit of noticing. Let his adventures speak for
+themselves.
+
+Amongst the greatest facts recorded here the Geographer will perceive
+that the Doctor has placed it beyond doubt that Lake Nyassa belongs to
+a totally distinct system of waters to that which holds Lake
+Tanganyika, and the rivers running north and west. He was too
+sagacious to venture the surmise that Tanganyika has a subterranean
+outlet without having duly weighed the probabilities in the scale with
+his elaborate observations: the idea gathers force when we remember
+that in the case of limestone cliffs, water so often succeeds in
+breaking bounds by boring through the solid rock. No more interesting
+problem is left to solve, and we shall yet learn whether, through the
+caverns of Western Kabogo, this Lake adds its waters to the vast
+northerly flow of rivers we now read of for the first time, and which
+are undoubtedly amongst the largest in the world.
+
+I cannot close these remarks without stating how much obliged I am to
+Mr. James Young, F.R.S., of Kelly, for having ensured the presence of
+the Doctor's men, Chuma and Susi. Ever ready to serve his old friend
+Livingstone, he took care that they should be at my elbow so long as I
+required them to help me amidst the pile of MSS. and maps. Their
+knowledge of the countries they travelled in is most remarkable, and
+from constantly aiding their master by putting questions to the
+natives respecting the course of rivers, &c., I found them actual
+geographers of no mean attainments. In one instance, when in doubt
+concerning a particular watershed, to my surprise Susi returned a few
+hours afterwards with a plan of the whole system of rivers in the
+region under examination, and I found his sketch tally well with the
+Doctor's map. Known to me previously for years on the Zambesi and
+Shir� it was a pleasure to have them with me for four months. Amongst
+other good services they have aided the artist by reproducing the
+exact facsimile of the hut in which Dr. Livingstone expired, besides
+making models of the "kitanda" on which he was carried, and of the
+village in which his body lay for fourteen days.
+
+I need not add what ready and valuable assistance I have derived from
+the Doctor's old companion Dr. Kirk wherever I have found it necessary
+to apply to him; some of the illustrations are more particularly owing
+to his kindness.
+
+It only remains to say that it has been thought advisable to retain
+all the strictly scientific matter found in Dr. Livingstone's journals
+for future publication. When one sees that a register of the daily
+rainfall was kept throughout, that the temperature was continually
+recorded, and that barometrical and hypsometrical observations were
+made with unflagging thoroughness of purpose year in and year out, it
+is obvious that an accumulated mass of information remains for the
+meteorologist to deal with separately, which alone must engross many
+months of labour.
+
+A constant sense of great responsibility has been mine throughout this
+task, for one cannot doubt that much of the future welfare of distant
+tribes and races depends upon Livingstone obtaining through these
+records a distinct hearing for their woes, their misery, and above all
+for their willingness to welcome men drawn towards them by motives
+like his.
+
+At the same time memory and affection have not failed to bring back
+vividly the man, the traveller, and the friend. May that which he has
+said in his journals suffer neither loss of interest nor depth of
+meaning at the compiler's hands.
+
+    HORACE WALLER.
+
+    TWYWELL RECTORY, THRAPSTON,
+    NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.
+    _Nov. 2, 1874._
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Attached to Mr. Stanford's staff.
+
+[2] In February last this section of the map (as we suppose), together
+with some of the Doctor's papers, was sent off from Ujiji by
+Lieutenant Cameron. Nothing, however, had arrived on the 22nd
+September at Zanzibar, and H.M. Consul, Captain Prideaux, entertained
+serious doubts at that time whether they would ever come to hand. All
+Livingstone's journals were saved through other instrumentality, as I
+have shown.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the sultan.
+    Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations
+    for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_
+    and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy
+    at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by
+    tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies.
+    The Makond�. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitan�. Result
+    of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of
+    followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend.
+    Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher.
+    Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death
+    of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence.
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's.
+    Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of
+    slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyau metropolis.
+    Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen
+    cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness
+    of climate. The Waiyau people and their peculiarities. Regrets
+    at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans.
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The
+    Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the
+    Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja
+    or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage
+    across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake
+    shore. Blue ink. Chitan� changes colour. The Nsaka fish.
+    Makalaos� drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities.
+    Lake rivers. Mukat�'s. Lake Pamalomb�. Mponda's. A slave gang.
+    Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains.
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited
+    chief. Reaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of
+    Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men
+    desert. Reaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once
+    more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of
+    Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the
+    transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance.
+    Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake.
+    The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin
+    Campbell. Milandos.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu.
+    Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed
+    between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings.
+    An old Nimrod. The Bua River. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of
+    transport. Chilob�. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou
+    bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the
+    Loangwa.
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great
+    hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats.
+    Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again.
+    Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the
+    great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out.
+    Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambez�. Death of
+    Chitan�. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine
+    chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambez�. Reaches
+    Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off
+    letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications.
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with
+    fever. Threatening attitude of Chibu�'s people. Continued
+    illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty
+    of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake.
+    Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama.
+    Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to
+    principal Arab, Hamees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the
+    Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran.
+    Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo, to the eastward, and their
+    chief, Mer�r�. Hamees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn.
+    Departure for Ponda. Native cupping.
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious
+    spider. Reaches the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees
+    marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride.
+    Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero.
+    Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders
+    on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake.
+    Information concerning the Chambez� and Luapula. Hears of Lake
+    Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of
+    Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofw�.
+    Arrives at Casembe's town.
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Grand reception of the traveller. Casembe and his wife. Long
+    stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwabwata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Salleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+    Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment.
+    Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of
+    Lake Chowamb�. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold
+    supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib.
+    Birthday, 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpw�to. Contemplates
+    visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of
+    Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Return to Casembe's. Obstructiveness
+    of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major
+    Monteiro. The line of Casembes. Casembe explains the connection
+    of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Mo�ri. Arab sacrifice.
+    Kapika gets rid of his wife.
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June,
+    1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo.
+    Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bemba changed
+    to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's
+    stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th
+    July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake.
+    Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifung� Island. Immense
+    size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of
+    canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets
+    Banyamwezi. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed
+    state of country.
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. Ill. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinn�. Notes on climate. Separation of
+    Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria
+    Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A
+    parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country.
+    Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular
+    custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's
+    Expedition. Christmas dinners.
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+    [DR. LIVINGSTONE, though no artist, had acquired a practice of
+    making rude sketches of scenes and objects, which have furnished
+    material for the Engravers in the Illustrations for this book.]
+
+Full-page Illustrations.
+
+    1. PORTRAIT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE. (From a Photograph by ANNAN)
+    2. SLAVERS REVENGING THEIR LOSSES
+    3. SLAVES ABANDONED
+    4. CHITAPANGWA RECEIVING DR. LIVINGSTONE
+    5. THE VILLAGE ON LAKE LIEMBA--TANGANYIKA
+    6. THE ARRIVAL OF HAMEES' BRIDE
+    7. DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO
+
+Smaller Illustrations.
+
+     1. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE, ZANZIBAR
+     2. DHOW USED FOR TRANSPORT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S CAMELS
+     3. A THORN-CLIMBER
+     4. TOMAHAWK AND AXE
+     5. CARVED DOOR, ZANZIBAR
+     6. TATTOO OF MATAMBW�
+     7. IMITATION OF BASKET-WORK IN POTTERY
+     8. DIGGING-STICK WEIGHTED WITH ROUND STONE
+     9. MANGANJA AND MACHINGA WOMEN
+    10. TATOO ON WOMEN
+    11. CARVED STOOL MADE OF A SINGLE WOODEN BLOCK
+    12. WOMEN'S TEETH HOLLOWED OUT
+    13. MODE OF FORGING HOES
+    14. MALLET FOR SEPARATING FIBRES OF BARK
+    15. THE CHIEF CHITAPANGWA
+    16. CHITAPANGWA'S WIVES
+    17. FILED TEETH OF QUEEN MO�H
+    18. A FOREST GRAVE
+
+GENERAL MAP OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S OWN DISCOVERIES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the Sultan.
+    Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations
+    for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_
+    and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy
+    at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by
+    tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies.
+    The Makond�. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.
+
+
+ZANZIBAR, _28th January, 1866._--After a passage of twenty-three days
+from Bombay we arrived at this island in the _Thule_, which was one of
+Captain Sherard Osborne's late Chinese fleet, and now a present from
+the Bombay Government to the Sultan of Zanzibar. I was honoured with
+the commission to make the formal presentation, and this was intended
+by H.E. the Governor-in-Council to show in how much estimation I was
+held, and thereby induce the Sultan to forward my enterprise. The
+letter to his Highness was a commendatory epistle in my favour, for
+which consideration on the part of Sir Bartle Frere I feel deeply
+grateful. It runs as follows:--
+
+    TO HIS HIGHNESS SEJUEL MAJID, SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR.
+
+    (_Copy._)
+
+    "YOUR HIGHNESS,--I trust that this will find you in the
+    enjoyment of health and happiness.
+
+    "I have requested my friend, Dr. David Livingstone, who is
+    already personally well and favourably known to your Highness,
+    to convey to you the assurance of the continual friendship and
+    goodwill of Her Majesty's Government in India.
+
+    "Your Highness is already aware of the benevolent objects of Dr.
+    Livingstone's life and labours, and I feel assured that your
+    Highness will continue to him the favour and protection which
+    you have already shown to him on former occasions, and that your
+    Highness will direct every aid to be given him within your
+    Highness's dominions which may tend to further the philanthropic
+    designs to which he has devoted himself, and which, as your
+    Highness is aware, are viewed with the warmest interest by Her
+    Majesty's Government both in India and England.
+
+    "I trust your Highness will favour me with continued accounts of
+    your good health and welfare.
+
+    "I remain, your Highness's sincere friend,
+
+    (Signed) "H.B.E. FRERE.
+
+    "BOMBAY CASTLE, _2nd January, 1866._"
+
+When we arrived Dr. Seward, the Acting Consul, was absent at the
+Seychelles on account of serious failure of health: Mr. Schultz,
+however, was representing him, but he too was at the time away. Dr.
+Seward was expected back daily, and he did arrive on the 31st. I
+requested a private interview with the Sultan, and on the following
+day (29th) called and told him the nature of my commission to his
+Highness. He was very gracious, and seemed pleased with the gift, as
+well he might, for the _Thule_ is fitted up in the most gorgeous
+manner. We asked a few days to put her in perfect order, and this
+being the Ramad�n, or fasting month, he was all the more willing to
+defer a visit to the vessel.
+
+Dr. Seward arranged to have an audience with the Sultan, to carry out
+his instructions, which were to present me in a formal manner; Captain
+Bradshaw of the _Wasp_, with Captain Leatham of the _Vigilant_, and
+Bishop Tozer, were to accompany us in full dress, but the Sultan had a
+toothache and gumboil, and could not receive us; he, however, placed
+one of his houses at my disposal, and appointed a man who speaks
+English to furnish board for my men and me, and also for Captain
+Brebner, of the _Thule_, and his men.
+
+[Illustration: Livingstone's House, Zanzibar.]
+
+_6th February, 1866._--The Sultan being still unable to come, partly
+on account of toothache and partly on account of Ramad�n, he sent his
+commodore, Captain Abdullah, to receive the _Thule_. When the English
+flag was hauled down in the _Thule_, it went up to the mainmast of the
+_Iskander Shah_, and was saluted by twenty-one guns; then the _Wasp_
+saluted the Arab flag with an equal number, which honour being duly
+acknowledged by a second royal salute from the _Iskander Shah_,
+Captain Abdullah's frigate, the ceremony ended.
+
+Next day, the 7th, we were received by the Sultan, and through his
+interpreter, I told him that his friend, the Governor of Bombay, had
+lately visited the South Mahratta Princes, and had pressed on them the
+necessity of education; the world was moving on, and those who
+neglected to acquire knowledge would soon find that power slipped
+through their fingers, and that the Bombay Government, in presenting
+his Highness with a portion of steam power, showed its desire to
+impart one of the greatest improvements of modern times, not desiring
+to monopolize power, but hoping to lift up others with themselves, and
+I wished him to live a hundred years and enjoy all happiness. The idea
+was borrowed partly from Sir Bartle Frere's addresses, because I
+thought it would have more weight if he heard a little from that
+source than if it emanated from myself. He was very anxious that
+Captain Brebner and his men, in returning to India, should take a
+passage from him in the _Nadir Shah_, one of his men-of-war, and
+though he had already placed his things aboard the _Vigilant_, to
+proceed to Seychelles, and thence to Bombay, we persuaded Captain
+Brebner to accept his Highness's hospitality. He had evidently set his
+heart on sending them back with suitable honours, and an hour after
+consent was given to go by the _Nadir Shah_, he signed an order for
+the money to fit her out.
+
+_11th February, 1866._--One of the foremost subjects that naturally
+occupied my mind here was the sad loss of the Baron van der Decken, on
+the River Juba, or Aljib. The first intimation of the unfortunate
+termination of his explorations was the appearance of Lieutenant von
+Schich at this place, who had left without knowing whether his leader
+were dead or alive, but an attack had been made on the encampment
+which had been planned after the steamer struck the rocks and filled,
+and two of the Europeans were killed. The attacking party came from
+the direction in which the Baron and Dr. Link went, and three men of
+note in it were slain. Von Schich went back from Zanzibar to Brava to
+ascertain the fate of the Baron, and meanwhile several native sailors
+from Zanzibar had been allowed to escape from the scene of confusion
+to Brava.
+
+_18th February, 1866._--All the Europeans went to pay visits of
+congratulation to his Highness the Sultan upon the conclusion of the
+Ramad�n, when sweetmeats were placed before us. He desired me to thank
+the Governor of Bombay for his magnificent gift, and to state that
+although he would like to have me always with him, yet he would show
+me the same favour in Africa which he had done here: he added that the
+_Thule_ was at my service to take me to the Rovuma whenever I wished
+to leave. I replied that nothing had been wanting on his part; he had
+done more than I expected, and I was sure that his Excellency the
+Governor would be delighted to hear that the vessel promoted his
+health and prosperity; nothing would delight him more than this. He
+said that he meant to go out in her on Wednesday next (20th): Bishop
+Tozer, Captain Fraser, Dr. Steere, and all the English were present.
+The sepoys came in and did obeisance; and I pointed out the Nassick
+lads as those who had been rescued from slavery, educated, and sent
+back to their own country by the Governor. Surely he must see that
+some people in the world act from other than selfish motives.
+
+In the afternoon Sheikh Sulieman, his secretary, came with a letter
+for the Governor, to be conveyed by Lieutenant Brebner, I.N., in the
+_Nadir Shah_, which is to sail to-morrow. He offered money to the
+lieutenant, but this could not be heard of for a moment.
+
+The translation of the letter is as follows, and is an answer to that
+which I brought.
+
+    TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY.
+
+    [After compliments.]
+
+
+    "... The end of my desire is to know ever that your
+    Excellency's health is good. As for me--your friend--I am very
+    well.
+
+    "Your honoured letter borne by Dr. Livingstone duly reached me,
+    and all that you said about him I understood.
+
+    "I will show him respect, give him honour, and help him in all
+    his affairs; and that I have already done this, I trust he will
+    tell you.
+
+    "I hope you will let me rest in your heart, and that you will
+    send me many letters.
+
+    "If you need anything I shall be glad, and will give it.
+
+    "Your sincere friend,
+
+    "MAJID BIN SAID.
+
+    "Dated 2nd Shaul, 1282 (18th February, 1866)."
+
+_2nd March, 1866._--A northern dhow came in with slaves; when this was
+reported to the Sultan he ordered it to be burned, and we saw this
+done from the window of the Consulate; but he has very little power
+over Northern Arabs. He has shown a little vigour of late. He wished
+to raise a revenue by a charge of 10 per cent. on all articles brought
+into town for sale, but this is clearly contrary to treaty, which
+provides that no monopoly shall be permitted, and no dues save that of
+5 per cent. import duty. The French Consul bullies him: indeed the
+French system of dealing with the natives is well expressed by that
+word; no wonder they cannot gain influence among them: the greatest
+power they exercise is by lending their flag to slaving dhows, so that
+it covers that nefarious traffic.
+
+The stench arising from a mile and a half or two square miles of
+exposed sea beach, which is the general depository of the filth of the
+town, is quite horrible. At night it is so gross or crass one might
+cut out a slice and manure a garden with it: it might be called
+Stinkibar rather than Zanzibar. No one can long enjoy good health
+here.
+
+On visiting the slave-market I found about 300 slaves exposed for
+sale, the greater part of whom came from Lake Nyassa and the Shir�
+River; I am so familiar with the peculiar faces and markings or
+tattooings, that I expect them to recognize me. Indeed one woman said
+that she had heard of our passing up Lake Nyassa in a boat, but she
+did not see me: others came from Chip�ta, S.W. of the Lake. All who
+have grown up seem ashamed at being hawked about for sale. The teeth
+are examined, the cloth lifted up to examine the lower limbs, and a
+stick is thrown for the slave to bring, and thus exhibit his paces.
+Some are dragged through the crowd by the hand, and the price called
+out incessantly: most of the purchasers were Northern Arabs and
+Persians. This is the period when the Sultan's people may not carry
+slaves coastwise; but they simply cannot, for the wind is against
+them. Many of the dhows leave for Madagascar, and thence come back to
+complete their cargoes.
+
+The Arabs are said to treat their slaves kindly, and this also may be
+said of native masters; the reason is, master and slave partake of the
+general indolence, but the lot of the slave does not improve with the
+general progress in civilization. While no great disparity of rank
+exists, his energies are little tasked, but when society advances,
+wants multiply; and to supply these the slave's lot grows harder. The
+distance between master and man increases as the lust of gain is
+developed, hence we can hope for no improvement in the slave's
+condition, unless the master returns to or remains in barbarism.
+
+_6th March, 1866._--Rains have begun now that the sun is overhead. We
+expect the _Penguin_ daily to come from Johanna, and take us to the
+Rovuma. It is an unwholesome place; six of my men have fever; few
+retain health long, and considering the lowness of the island, and the
+absence of sanitary regulations in the town, it is not to be wondered
+at. The Sultan has little power, being only the successor to the
+captain of the horde of Arabs who came down and overran the island and
+maritime coasts of the adjacent continent. He is called only Said or
+Syed, never Sultan; and they can boast of choosing a new one if he
+does not suit them. Some coins were found in digging here which have
+Cufic inscriptions, and are about 900 years old. The island is low;
+the highest parts may not be more than 150 feet above the sea; it is
+of a coral formation, with sandstone conglomerate. Most of the plants
+are African, but clove-trees, mangoes, and cocoa-nut groves give a
+luxuriant South Sea Island look to the whole scenery.
+
+We visited an old man to-day, the richest in Zanzibar, who is to give
+me letters to his friends at Tanganyika, and I am trying to get a
+dep�t of goods for provisions formed there, so that when I reach it I
+may not be destitute.
+
+_18th March, 1866._--I have arranged with Koorje, a Banian, who farms
+the custom-house revenue here, to send a supply of beads, cloth,
+flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on Lake Tanganyika. The Arab
+there, with whom one of Koorje's people will remain in charge of the
+goods, is called Thani bin Suelim.
+
+Yesterday we went to take leave of the Sultan, and to thank him for
+all his kindness to me and my men, which has indeed been very great.
+He offered me men to go with me, and another letter if I wished it. He
+looks very ill.
+
+I have received very great kindness during my stay from Dr. and Mrs.
+Seward. They have done everything for me in their power: may God
+Almighty return it all abundantly into their bosoms, in the way that
+He best can. Dr. Seward's views of the policy pursued here I have no
+doubt are the right ones; in fact, the only ones which can be looked
+back to with satisfaction, or that have probability of success among a
+race of Pariah Arabs.
+
+The _Penguin_ came a few days ago, and Lieutenant Garforth in command
+agrees to take me down to the Rovuma River, and land me there. I have
+a dhow to take my animals: six camels, three buffaloes, and a calf,
+two mules, and four donkeys. I have thirteen Sepoys, ten Johanna men,
+nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga men, and two Wayaus, Wekatani and
+Chuma.[3]
+
+[It may be well to point out that several of these men had previously
+been employed by Dr. Livingstone on the Zambesi and Shir�; thus Musa,
+the Johanna man, was a sailor on the _Lady Nyassa_, whilst Susi and
+Amoda were engaged at Shupanga to cut wood for the _Pioneer_. The two
+Waiyau lads, Wakatani and Chuma, were liberated from the slavers by
+the Doctor and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861, and lived for three years
+with the Mission party at Chibisa's before they were engaged by
+Livingstone. The Nassick lads were entire strangers, and were trained
+in India.]
+
+_19th March, 1866._--We start this morning at 10 A.M. I trust that the
+Most High may prosper me in this work, granting me influence in the
+eyes of the heathen, and helping me to make my intercourse beneficial
+to them.
+
+_22nd March, 1866._--We reached Rovuma Bay to-day, and anchored about
+two miles from the mouth of the river, in five fathoms. I went up the
+left bank to see if the gullies which formerly ran into the bay had
+altered, so as to allow camels to cross them: they seemed to have
+become shallower. There was no wind for the dhow, and as for the
+man-of-war towing her, it was out of the question. On the 23rd the
+cutter did try to tow the dhow, but without success, as a strong tide
+runs constantly out of the river at this season. A squall came up from
+the S.E., which would have taken the dhow in, but the master was on
+board the _Penguin_, and said he had no large sail. I got him off to
+his vessel, but the wind died away before we could reach the mouth of
+the river.
+
+_24th March, 1866._--I went to the dhow, and there being no wind I
+left orders with the captain to go up the right bank should a breeze
+arise. Mr. Fane, midshipman, accompanied me up the left bank above, to
+see if we could lead the camels along in the water. Near the point
+where the river first makes a little bend to the north, we landed and
+found three formidable gullies, and jungle so thick with bush,
+date-palms, twining bamboo, and hooked thorns, that one could scarcely
+get along. Further inland it was sticky mud, thickly planted over with
+mangrove roots and gullies in whose soft banks one sank over the
+ankles. No camels could have moved, and men with extreme difficulty
+might struggle through; but we never could have made an available
+road. We came to a she-hippopotamus lying in a ditch, which did not
+cover her; Mr. Fane fired into her head, and she was so upset that she
+nearly fell backward in plunging up the opposite bank: her calf was
+killed, and was like sucking-pig, though in appearance as large as a
+full-grown sow.
+
+We now saw that the dhow had a good breeze, and she came up along the
+right bank and grounded at least a mile from the spot where the
+mangroves ceased. The hills, about two hundred feet high, begin about
+two or three miles above that, and they looked invitingly green and
+cool. My companion and I went from the dhow inland, to see if the
+mangroves gave way, to a more walkable country, but the swamp covered
+over thickly with mangroves only became worse the farther we receded
+from the river. The whole is flooded at high tides, and had we landed
+all the men we should have been laid up with fever ere we could have
+attained the higher land, which on the right bank bounds the line of
+vision, and the first part of which lies so near. I thought I had
+better land on the sand belt on the left of Rovuma Bay, and then
+explore and get information from the natives, none of whom had as yet
+come near us, so I ordered the dhow to come down to the spot next day,
+and went on board the _Penguin_. Lieutenant Garforth was excessively
+kind, and though this is his best time for cruising in the North, he
+most patiently agreed to wait and help me to land.
+
+_24th March, 1866._--During the night it occurred to me that we should
+be in a mess if after exploration and information from the natives we
+could find no path, and when I mentioned this, Lieutenant Garforth
+suggested that we should proceed to Kilwa, so at 5 A.M. I went up to
+the dhow with Mr. Fane, and told the captain that we were going there.
+He was loud in his protestations against this, and strongly
+recommended the port of Mikindany, as quite near to Rovuma, Nyassa,
+and the country I wished to visit, besides being a good landing-place,
+and the finest port on the coast. Thither we went, and on the same
+evening landed all our animals in Mikindany bay, which lies only
+twenty-five miles N. of Rovuma. The _Penguin_ then left.
+
+The Rovuma is quite altered from what it was when first we visited it.
+It is probable that the freshets form banks inside the mouth, which
+are washed out into the deep bay, and this periodical formation
+probably has prevented the Arabs from using the Rovuma as a port of
+shipment. It is not likely that Mr. May[4] would have made a mistake
+if the middle were as shoal as now: he found soundings of three
+fathoms or more.
+
+[Illustration: Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels.]
+
+_25th March, 1866._--I hired a house for four dollars a month and
+landed all our goods from the dhow. The bay gives off a narrow
+channel, about 500 yards wide and 200 yards long, the middle is deep,
+but the sides are coral reefs and shoal: the deep part seems about 100
+yards wide. Outside in the Bay of Mikindany there is no anchorage
+except on the edge of the reef where the _Penguin_ got seven fathoms,
+but further in it was only two fathoms. The inner bay is called Pemba,
+not Pimlea, as erroneously printed in the charts of Owen. It is deep
+and quite sheltered; another of a similar round form lies somewhat to
+the south: this bay may be two miles square.
+
+The cattle are all very much the worse for being knocked about in the
+dhow. We began to prepare saddles of a very strong tree called Ntibw�,
+which is also used for making the hooked spear with which hippopotami
+are killed--the hook is very strong and tough; I applied also for
+twenty carriers and a Banian engaged to get them as soon as possible.
+The people have no cattle here, they are half-caste Arabs mostly, and
+quite civil to us.
+
+_26th March, 1866._--A few of the Nassick boys have the slave spirit
+pretty strongly; it goes deepest in those who have the darkest skins.
+Two Gallah men are the most intelligent and hardworking among them;
+some look on work with indifference when others are the actors.
+
+Now that I am on the point of starting on another trip into Africa I
+feel quite exhilarated: when one travels with the specific object in
+view of ameliorating the condition of the natives every act becomes
+ennobled.
+
+Whether exchanging the customary civilities, or arriving at a village,
+accepting a night's lodging, purchasing food for the party, asking for
+information, or answering polite African enquiries as to our objects
+in travelling, we begin to spread a knowledge of that people by whose
+agency their land will yet become enlightened and freed from the
+slave-trade.
+
+The mere animal pleasure of travelling in a wild unexplored country is
+very great. When on lands of a couple of thousand feet elevation,
+brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles, fresh and healthy
+blood circulates through the brain, the mind works well, the eye is
+clear, the step is firm, and a day's exertion always makes the
+evening's repose thoroughly enjoyable.
+
+We have usually the stimulus of remote chances of danger either from
+beasts or men. Our sympathies are drawn out towards our humble hardy
+companions by a community of interests, and, it may be, of perils,
+which make us all friends. Nothing but the most pitiable puerility
+would lead any manly heart to make their inferiority a theme for
+self-exaltation; however, that is often done, as if with the vague
+idea that we can, by magnifying their deficiencies, demonstrate our
+immaculate perfections.
+
+The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right place is
+that the mind is made more self-reliant: it becomes more confident of
+its own resources--there is greater presence of mind. The body is soon
+well-knit; the muscles of the limbs grow as hard as a board, and seem
+to have no fat; the countenance is bronzed, and there is no dyspepsia.
+Africa is a most wonderful country for appetite, and it is only when
+one gloats over marrow bones or elephant's feet that indigestion is
+possible. No doubt much toil is involved, and fatigue of which
+travellers in the more temperate climes can form but a faint
+conception; but the sweat of one's brow is no longer a curse when one
+works for God: it proves a tonic to the system, and is actually a
+blessing. No one can truly appreciate the charm of repose unless he
+has undergone severe exertion.
+
+_27th March, 1866._--The point of land which on the north side of the
+entrance to the harbour narrows it to about 300 yards is alone called
+Pemba; the other parts have different names. Looking northwards from
+the point, the first hundred yards has ninety square houses of wattled
+daub; a ruin (a mosque) has been built of lime and coral. The whole
+point is coral, and the soil is red, and covered over with dense
+tropical vegetation, in which the baobab is conspicuous. Dhows at
+present come in with ease by the easterly wind which blows in the
+evening, and leave next morning, the land wind taking them out.
+
+While the camels and other animals are getting over their fatigues
+and bad bruises, we are making camels' saddles, and repairing those of
+the mules and buffaloes. Oysters abound on all the rocks and on the
+trees over which the tide flows: they are small, but much relished by
+the people.
+
+The Arabs here are a wretched lot physically--thin, washed-out
+creatures--many with bleared eyes.
+
+_29-30th March, 1866._--- This harbour has somewhat the shape of a
+bent bow or the spade on a playing-card, the shaft of the arrow being
+the entrance in; the passage is very deep, but not more than 100 yards
+wide, and it goes in nearly S.W.; inside it is deep and quite secure,
+and protected from all winds. The lands westward rise at once to about
+200 feet, and John, a hill, is the landmark by which it is best known
+in coming along the coast--so say the Arabs. The people have no
+cattle, but say there are no tsetse flies: they have not been
+long here, _i.e._ under the present system; but a ruin on the
+northern peninsula or face of the entrance, built of stone and
+lime--Arab-fashion, and others on the north-west, show that the place
+has been known and used of old. The adjacent country has large game at
+different water pools, and as the whole country is somewhat elevated
+it probably is healthy. There is very little mangrove, but another
+enclosed piece of water to the south of this probably has more. The
+language of the people here is Swaheli; they trade a little in
+gum-copal and Orchilla weed. An agent of the Zanzibar custom-house
+presides over the customs, which are very small, and a jemidar
+acknowledging the Sultan is the chief authority; but the people are
+little superior to the natives whom they have displaced. The jemidar
+has been very civil to me, and gives me two guides to go on to Adond�,
+but no carriers can be hired. Water is found in wells in the coral
+rock which underlies the whole place.
+
+_4th April, 1866._--When about to start from Pemba, at the entrance to
+the other side of the bay one of our buffaloes gored a donkey so
+badly that he had to be shot: we cut off the tips of the offender's
+horns, on the principle of "locking the stable-door when the steed is
+stolen," and marched. We came to level spots devoid of vegetation, and
+hard on the surface, but a deposit of water below allowed the camels
+to sink up to their bodies through the crust. Hauling them out, we got
+along to the jemidar's house, which is built of coral and lime. Hamesh
+was profuse in his professions of desire to serve, but gave a shabby
+hut which let in rain and wind. I slept one night in it, and it was
+unbearable, so I asked the jemidar to allow me to sleep in his
+court-room, where many of the sepoys were: he consented, but when I
+went refused; then, being an excitable, nervous Arab, he took fright,
+mustered all his men, amounting to about fifteen, with matchlocks; ran
+off, saying he was going to kill a lion; came back, shook hands
+nervously with me, vowing it was a man who would not obey him, "it was
+not you."
+
+Our goods were all out in the street, bound on the pack-saddles, so at
+night we took the ordinary precaution of setting a guard. This excited
+our dignitary, and after dark all his men were again mustered with
+matches lighted. I took no notice of him, and after he had spent a
+good deal of talk, which we could hear, he called Musa and asked what
+I meant. The explanations of Musa had the effect of sending him to
+bed, and in the morning, when I learned how much I had most
+unintentionally disturbed him, I told him that I was sorry, but it did
+not occur to me to tell him about an ordinary precaution against
+thieves. He thought he had given me a crushing reply when he said with
+vehemence, "But there are no thieves here." I did not know till
+afterwards that he and others had done me an ill turn in saying that
+no carriers could be hired from the independent tribes adjacent. They
+are low-coast Arabs, three-quarters African, and, as usual, possess
+the bad without the good qualities of both parents. Many of them came
+and begged brandy, and laughed when they remarked that they could
+drink it in secret but not openly; they have not, however, introduced
+it as an article of trade, as we Christians have done on the West
+Coast.
+
+_6th April, 1866._--We made a short march round to the south-west side
+of the Lake, and spent the night at a village in that direction. There
+are six villages dotted round the inner harbour, and the population
+may amount to 250 or 300 souls--coast Arabs and their slaves; the
+southern portion of the harbour is deep, from ten to fourteen fathoms,
+but the north-western part is shoal and rocky. Very little is done in
+the way of trade; some sorghum, sem-sem seed, gum-copal, and orchilla
+weed, constitute the commerce of the port: I saw two Banian traders
+settled here.
+
+_7th April, 1866._--Went about south from Kindany with a Somalie
+guide, named Ben Ali or Bon Ali, a good-looking obliging man, who was
+to get twenty dollars to take us up to Ngomano. Our path lay in a
+valley, with well-wooded heights on each side, but the grass towered
+over our heads, and gave the sensation of smothering, whilst the sun
+beat down on our heads very fiercely, and there was not a breath of
+air stirring. Not understanding camels, I had to trust to the sepoys
+who overloaded them, and before we had accomplished our march of about
+seven miles they were knocked up.
+
+_8th April, 1866._--We spent the Sunday at a village called Nya�gedi.
+Here on the evening of the 7th April our buffaloes and camels were
+first bitten by the tsetse fly.[5] We had passed through some pieces
+of dense jungle which, though they offered no obstruction to
+foot-passengers, but rather an agreeable shade, had to be cut for the
+tall camels, and fortunately we found the Makond� of this village
+glad to engage themselves by the day either as woodcutters or
+carriers. We had left many things with the jemidar from an idea that
+no carriers could be procured. I lightened the camels, and had a party
+of woodcutters to heighten and widen the path in the dense jungle into
+which we now penetrated. Every now and then we emerged on open spaces,
+where the Makond� have cleared gardens for sorghum, maize, and
+cassava. The people were very much more taken up with the camels and
+buffaloes than with me. They are all independent of each other, and no
+paramount chief exists. Their foreheads may be called compact, narrow,
+and rather low; the _alae nasi_ expanded laterally; lips full, not
+excessively thick; limbs and body well formed; hands and feet small;
+colour dark and light-brown; height middle size, and bearing
+independent.
+
+_10th April, 1866._--We reached a village called Narri, lat. 10� 23'
+14" S. Many of the men had touches of fever. I gave medicine to eleven
+of them, and next morning all were better. Food is abundant and cheap.
+Our course is nearly south, and in "wadys," from which, following the
+trade-road, we often ascend the heights, and then from the villages,
+which are on the higher land, we descend to another on the same wady.
+No running water is seen; the people depend on wells for a supply.
+
+_11th April, 1866._--At Tandahara we were still ascending as we went
+south; the soil is very fertile, with a good admixture of sand in it,
+but no rocks are visible. Very heavy crops of maize and sorghum are
+raised, and the cassava bushes are seven feet in height. The bamboos
+are cleared off them, spread over the space to be cultivated and
+burned to serve as manure. Iron is very scarce, for many of the men
+appear with wooden spears; they find none here, but in some spots
+where an ooze issued from the soil iron rust appeared. At each of the
+villages where we spent a night we presented a fathom of calico, and
+the headman always gave a fowl or two, and a basket of rice or maize.
+The Makond� dialect is quite different from Swaheli, but from their
+intercourse with the coast Arabs many of the people here have acquired
+a knowledge of Swaheli.
+
+[Illustration: A Thorn-climber.]
+
+_12th April, 1866._--On starting we found the jungle so dense that the
+people thought "there was no cutting it:" it continued upwards of
+three miles. The trees are not large, but so closely planted together
+that a great deal of labour was required to widen and heighten the
+path: where bamboos prevail they have starved out the woody trees. The
+reason why the trees are not large is because all the spaces we passed
+over were formerly garden ground before the Makond� had been thinned
+by the slave-trade. As soon as a garden is deserted, a thick crop of
+trees of the same sorts as those formerly cut down springs up, and
+here the process of woody trees starving out their fellows, and
+occupying the land without dense scrub below, has not had time to work
+itself out. Many are mere poles, and so intertwined with climbers as
+to present the appearance of a ship's ropes and cables shaken in among
+them, and many have woody stems as thick as an eleven-inch hawser. One
+species may be likened to the scabbard of a dragoon's sword, but along
+the middle of the flat side runs a ridge, from which springs up every
+few inches a bunch of inch-long straight sharp thorns. It hangs
+straight for a couple of yards, but as if it could not give its thorns
+a fair chance of mischief, it suddenly bends on itself, and all its
+cruel points are now at right angles to what they were before.
+Darwin's observation shows a great deal of what looks like instinct in
+these climbers. This species seems to be eager for mischief; its
+tangled limbs hang out ready to inflict injury on all passers-by.
+Another climber is so tough it is not to be broken by the fingers;
+another appears at its root as a young tree, but it has the straggling
+habits of its class, as may be seen by its cords stretched some fifty
+or sixty feet off; it is often two inches in diameter; you cut it
+through at one part and find it reappear forty yards off.
+
+[Illustration: Tomahawk and Axe.]
+
+Another climber is like the leaf of an aloe, but convoluted as
+strangely as shavings from the plane of a carpenter. It is dark green
+in colour, and when its bark is taken off it is beautifully striated
+beneath, lighter and darker green, like the rings of growth on wood;
+still another is a thin string with a succession of large knobs, and
+another has its bark pinched up all round at intervals so as to
+present a great many cutting edges. One sort need scarcely be
+mentioned, in which all along its length are strong bent hooks, placed
+in a way that will hold one if it can but grapple with him, for that
+is very common and not like those mentioned, which the rather seem to
+be stragglers from the carboniferous period of geologists, when
+Pachydermata wriggled unscathed among tangled masses worse than these.
+We employed about ten jolly young Makond� to deal with these
+prehistoric plants in their own way, for they are accustomed to
+clearing spaces for gardens, and went at the work with a will, using
+tomahawks well adapted for the work. They whittled away right
+manfully, taking an axe when any trees had to be cut. Their pay,
+arranged beforehand, was to be one yard of calico per day: this is not
+much, seeing we are still so near the sea-coast. Climbers and young
+trees melted before them like a cloud before the sun! Many more would
+have worked than we employed, but we used the precaution of taking
+the names of those engaged. The tall men became exhausted soonest,
+while the shorter men worked vigorously still--but a couple of days'
+hard work seemed to tell on the best of them. It is doubtful if any
+but meat-eating people can stand long-continued labour without
+exhaustion: the Chinese may be an exception. When French navvies were
+first employed they could not do a tithe of the work of our English
+ones; but when the French were fed in the same style as the English,
+they performed equally well. Here the Makond� have rarely the chance
+of a good feed of meat: it is only when one of them is fortunate
+enough to spear a wild hog or an antelope that they know this luxury;
+if a fowl is eaten they get but a taste of it with their porridge.
+
+_13th April, 1866._--We now began to descend the northern slope down
+to the Rovuma, and a glimpse could occasionally be had of the country;
+it seemed covered with great masses of dark green forest, but the
+undulations occasionally looked like hills, and here and there a
+Sterculia had put on yellow foliage in anticipation of the coming
+winter. More frequently our vision was circumscribed to a few yards
+till our merry woodcutters made for us the pleasant scene of a long
+vista fit for camels to pass: as a whole, the jungle would have made
+the authors of the natty little hints to travellers smile at their own
+productions, good enough, perhaps, where one has an open country with
+trees and hills; by which to take bearings, estimate distances, see
+that one point is on the same latitude, another on the same longitude
+with such another, and all to be laid down fair and square with
+protractor and compass, but so long as we remained within the
+vegetation, that is fed by the moisture from the Indian Ocean, the
+steamy, smothering air, and dank, rank, luxuriant vegetation made me
+feel, like it, struggling for existence,--and no more capable of
+taking bearings than if I had been in a hogshead and observing through
+the bunghole!
+
+An old Monyi�ko headman presented a goat and asked if the sepoys
+wished to cut its throat: the Johannees, being of a different sect of
+Mahometans, wanted to cut it in some other way than their Indian
+co-religionists: then ensued a fierce dispute as to who was of the
+right sort of Moslem! It was interesting to see that not Christians
+alone, but other nations feel keenly on religious subjects.
+
+I saw rocks of grey sandstone (like that which overlies coal) and the
+Rovuma in the distance. Didi is the name of a village whose headsman,
+Chombok�a, is said to be a doctor; all the headmen pretend or are
+really doctors; however one, Fundindomba, came after me for medicine
+for himself.
+
+_14th April, 1866._--To-day we succeeded in reaching the Rovuma, where
+some very red cliffs appear on the opposite heights, and close by
+where it is marked on the map that the _Pioneer_ turned back in 1861.
+Here we rested on Sunday 15th.
+
+_16th April, 1866._--Our course now lay westwards, along the side of
+that ragged outline of table-land, which we had formerly seen from the
+river as flanking both sides. There it appeared a range of hills
+shutting in Rovuma, here we had spurs jutting out towards the river,
+and valleys retiring from a mile to three miles inland. Sometimes we
+wended our way round them, sometimes rose over and descended their
+western sides, and then a great deal of wood-cutting was required. The
+path is not straight, but from one village to another. We came
+perpetually on gardens, and remarked that rice was sown among the
+other grain; there must be a good deal of moisture at other times to
+admit of this succeeding: at present the crops were suffering for want
+of rain. We could purchase plenty of rice for the sepoys, and well it
+was so, for the supply which was to last till we arrived at Ngomano
+was finished on the 13th. An old doctor, with our food awaiting,
+presented me with two large bags of rice and his wife husked it for
+us.
+
+_17th April, 1866._--I had to leave the camels in the hands of the
+sepoys: I ordered them to bring as little luggage as possible, and the
+Havildar assured me that two buffaloes were amply sufficient to carry
+all they would bring. I now find that they have more than full loads
+for two buffaloes, two mules, and two donkeys; but when these animals
+fall down under them, they assure me with so much positiveness that
+they are not overloaded, that I have to be silent, or only, as I have
+several times done before, express the opinion that they will kill
+these animals. This observation on my part leads them to hide their
+things in the packs of the camels, which also are over-burdened. I
+fear that my experiment with the tsetse will be vitiated, but no
+symptoms yet occur in any of the camels except weariness.[6] The sun
+is very sharp; it scorches. Nearly all the sepoys had fever, but it is
+easily cured; they never required to stop marching, and we cannot make
+over four or five miles a day, which movement aids in the cure. In all
+cases of fever removal from the spot of attack should be made: after
+the fever among the sepoys, the Nassick boys took their turn along
+with the Johannees.
+
+_18th April, 1866._--Ben Ali misled us away up to the north in spite
+of my protest, when we turned in that direction; he declared that was
+the proper path. We had much wood-cutting, and found that our course
+that day and next was to enable him to visit and return from one of
+his wives--a comely Makond� woman! He brought her to call on me, and I
+had to be polite to the lady, though we lost a day by the zigzag. This
+is one way by which the Arabs gain influence; a great many very
+light-coloured people are strewed among the Makond�, but only one of
+these had the Arab hair. On asking Ali whether any attempts had been
+made by Arabs to convert those with whom they enter into such intimate
+relationships, he replied that the Makond� had no idea of a Deity--no
+one could teach them, though Makond� slaves when taken to the coast
+and elsewhere were made Mahometans. Since the slave-trade was
+introduced this tribe has much diminished in numbers, and one village
+makes war upon another and kidnaps, but no religious teaching has been
+attempted. The Arabs come down to the native ways, and make no efforts
+to raise the natives to theirs; it is better that it is so, for the
+coast Arab's manners and morals would be no improvement on the pagan
+African!
+
+_19th April, 1866._--We were led up over a hill again, and on to the
+level of the plateau (where the evaporation is greater than in the
+valley), and tasted water of an agreeable coldness for the first time
+this journey. The people, especially the women, are very rude, and the
+men very eager to be employed as woodcutters. Very merry they are at
+it, and every now and then one raises a cheerful shout, in which all
+join. I suppose they are urged on by a desire to please their wives
+with a little clothing. The higher up the Rovuma we ascend the people
+are more and more tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body.
+The teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by the
+women; some few Mabeha men from the south side of the river have
+lip-rings too.
+
+_20th April, 1866._--A Johanna man allowed the camels to trespass and
+destroy a man's tobacco patch: the owner would not allow us after this
+to pass through his rice-field, in which the route lay. I examined the
+damage, and made the Johanna man pay a yard of calico for it, which
+set matters all right.
+
+Tsetse are biting the buffaloes again. Elephants, hippopotami, and
+pigs are the only game here, but we see none: the tsetse feed on
+them. In the low meadow land, from one to three miles broad, which
+lies along both banks, we have brackish pools, and one, a large one,
+which we passed, called Wrongw�, had much fish, and salt is got from
+it.
+
+_21st April, 1866._--After a great deal of cutting we reached the
+valley of Mehambw� to spend Sunday, all glad that it had come round
+again. Here some men came to our camp from Ndond�, who report that an
+invasion of Mazitu had three months ago swept away all the food out of
+the country, and they are now obliged to send in every direction for
+provisions. When saluting, they catch each other's hands and say, "Ai!
+Ai!" but the general mode (introduced, probably by the Arabs) is to
+take hold of the right hand, and say, "Marhaba" (welcome).
+
+A wall-eyed ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on the attack on
+our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom I gave cloth to prevent a
+collision, came about us disguised in a jacket. I knew him well, but
+said nothing to him.[7]
+
+_23rd April, 1866._--When we marched this morning we passed the spot
+where an animal had been burned in the fire, and on enquiry I found
+that it is the custom when a leopard is killed to take off the skin
+and consume the carcase thus, because the Makond� do not eat it. The
+reason they gave for not eating flesh which is freely eaten by other
+tribes, is that the leopard devours men; this shows the opposite of an
+inclination to cannibalism.
+
+All the rocks we had seen showed that the plateau consists of grey
+sandstone, capped by a ferruginous sandy conglomerate. We now came to
+blocks of silicified wood lying on the surface; it is so like recent
+wood, that no one who has not handled it would conceive it to be
+stone and not wood: the outer surface preserves the grain or woody
+fibre, the inner is generally silica.
+
+Buffaloes bitten by tsetse again show no bad effects from it: one mule
+is, however, dull and out of health; I thought that this might be the
+effect of the bite till I found that his back was so strained that he
+could not stoop to drink, and could only eat the tops of the grasses.
+An ox would have been ill in two days after the biting on the 7th.
+
+A carrier stole a shirt, and went off unsuspected; when the loss was
+ascertained, the man's companions tracked him with Ben Ali by night,
+got him in his hut, and then collected the headmen of the village, who
+fined him about four times the value of what had been stolen. They
+came back in the morning without seeming to think that they had done
+aught to be commended; this was the only case of theft we had noticed,
+and the treatment showed a natural sense of justice.
+
+_24th April, 1866._--We had showers occasionally, but at night all the
+men were under cover of screens. The fevers were speedily cured; no
+day was lost by sickness, but we could not march more than a few
+miles, owing to the slowness of the sepoys; they are a heavy drag on
+us, and of no possible use, except when acting as sentries at night.
+
+When in the way between Kendany and Rovuma, I observed a plant here,
+called _Mandar�_, the root of which is in taste and appearance like a
+waxy potato; I saw it once before at the falls below the Barots�
+Valley, in the middle of the continent; it had been brought there by
+an emigrant, who led out the water for irrigation, and it still
+maintained its place in the soil. Would this not prove valuable in the
+soil of India? I find that it is not cultivated further up the country
+of the Makond�, but I shall get Ali to secure some for Bombay.
+
+_25th April, 1866._--A serpent bit Jack, our dog, above the eye, the
+upper eyelid swelled very much, but no other symptoms appeared, and
+next day all swelling was gone; the serpent was either harmless, or
+the quantity of poison injected very small. The pace of the camels is
+distressingly slow, and it suits the sepoys to make it still slower
+than natural by sitting down to smoke and eat. The grass is high and
+ground under it damp and steamy.
+
+_26th April, 1866._--On the 25th we reached Narri, and resolved to
+wait the next day and buy food, as it is not so plentiful in front;
+the people are eager traders in meal, fowls, eggs, and honey; the
+women are very rude. Yesterday I caught a sepoy, Pando, belabouring a
+camel with a big stick as thick as any part of his arm, the path being
+narrow, it could not get out of his way; I shouted to him to desist;
+he did not know I was in sight, to-day the effect of the bad usage is
+seen in the animal being quite unable to move its leg: inflammation
+has set up in the hip-joint. I am afraid that several bruises which
+have festered on the camels, and were to me unaccountable, have been
+wilfully bestowed. This same Pando and another left Zanzibar drunk: he
+then stole a pair of socks from me, and has otherwise been perfectly
+useless, even a pimple on his leg was an excuse for doing nothing for
+many days. We had to leave this camel at Narri under charge of the
+headman.
+
+_28th April, 1866._--The hills on the north now retire out of our
+sight. A gap in the southern plateau gives passage to a small river,
+which arises in a lakelet of some size, eight or ten miles inland: the
+river and lakelet are both called Nangadi; the latter is so broad that
+men cannot be distinguished, even by the keen eyes of the natives on
+the other side: it is very deep, and abounds in large fish; the people
+who live there are Mabiha. A few miles above this gap the southern
+highland falls away, and there are lakelets on marshes, also
+abounding in fish, an uninhabited space next succeeds, and then we
+have the Matambw� country, which extends up to Ngomano. The Matambw�
+seem to be a branch of the Makond�, and a very large one: their
+country extends a long way south, and is well stocked with elephants
+and gum-copal trees.
+
+They speak a language slightly different from that of the Makond�, but
+they understand them. The Matambw� women are, according to Ali, very
+dark, but very comely, though they do wear the lip-ring. They carry
+their ivory, gum-copal, and slaves to Ibo or Wibo.
+
+_29th April, 1866._--We spend Sunday, the 29th, on the banks of the
+Rovuma, at a village called Nachuchu, nearly opposite Konayumba, the
+first of the Matambw�, whose chief is called Kimbemb�. Ali draws a
+very dark picture of the Makond�. He says they know nothing of a
+Deity, they pray to their mothers when in distress or dying; know
+nothing of a future state, nor have they any religion except a belief
+in medicine; and every headsman is a doctor. No Arab has ever tried to
+convert them, but occasionally a slave taken to the coast has been
+circumcised in order to be clean; some of them pray, and say they know
+not the ordeal or muavi. The Nassick boys failed me when I tried to
+communicate some knowledge through them. They say they do not
+understand the Makond� language, though some told me that they came
+from Ndond�'s, which is the head-quarters of the Makond�. Ali says
+that the Makond� blame witches for disease and death; when one of a
+village dies, the whole population departs, saying "that is a bad
+spot." They are said to have been notorious for fines, but an awe has
+come over them, and no complaints have been made, though our animals
+in passing the gardens have broken a good deal of corn. Ali says they
+fear the English. This is an answer to my prayer for influence on the
+minds of the heathen. I regret that I cannot speak to them that good
+of His name which I ought.
+
+I went with the Makond� to see a specimen of the gum-copal tree in the
+vicinity of this village. The leaves are in pairs, glossy green, with
+the veins a little raised on both face and back; the smaller branches
+diverge from the same point: the fruit, of which we saw the shells,
+seems to be a nut; some animal had in eating them cut them through.
+The bark of the tree is of a light ash colour; the gum was oozing from
+the bark at wounded places, and it drops on the ground from branches;
+it is thus that insects are probably imbedded in the gum-copal. The
+people dig in the vicinity of modern trees in the belief that the more
+ancient trees which dropped their gum before it became an article of
+commerce must have stood there. "In digging, none may be found on one
+day but God (Mungu) may give it to us on the next." To this all the
+Makond� present assented, and showed me the consciousness of His
+existence was present in their minds. The Makond� get the gum in large
+quantities, and this attracts the coast Arabs, who remain a long time
+in the country purchasing it. Hernia humoralis abounds; it is ascribed
+to beer-drinking.
+
+_30th April, 1866._--Many ulcers burst forth on the camels; some seem
+old dhow bruises. They come back from pasture, bleeding in a way that
+no rubbing against a tree would account for. I am sorry to suspect
+foul play: the buffaloes and mules are badly used, but I cannot be
+always near to prevent it.
+
+Bhang[8] is not smoked, but tobacco is: the people have no sheep or
+goats; only fowls, pigeons, and Muscovy ducks are seen. Honey is very
+cheap; a good large pot of about a gallon, with four fowls, was given
+for two yards of calico. Buffaloes again bitten by tsetse, and by
+another fly exactly like the house-fly, but having a straight hard
+proboscis instead of a soft one; other large flies make the blood run.
+The tsetse does not disturb the buffaloes, but these others and the
+smaller flies do. The tsetse seem to like the camel best; from these
+they are gorged with blood--they do not seem to care for the mules and
+donkeys.
+
+[Illustration: Carved Door, Zanzibar.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Dhow is the name given to the coasting vessel of East Africa and
+the Indian Ocean.
+
+[4] The Commander of H.M.S. _Pioneer_ in 1861.
+
+[5] Those who have read the accounts given by African travellers will
+remember that the bites inflicted by two or three of these small flies
+will visually lay the foundation of a sickness which destroys oxen,
+horses, and dogs in a few weeks.
+
+[6] Dr. Livingstone was anxious to try camels and Indian buffaloes in
+a tsetse country to see the effect upon them.
+
+[7] This refers to an attack made upon the boats of the _Pioneer_ when
+the Doctor was exploring the River Rovuma in 1861.
+
+[8] A species of hemp.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitan�. Result
+    of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of
+    followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend.
+    Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher.
+    Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death
+    of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence.
+
+
+_1st May, 1866._--We now came along through a country comparatively
+free of wood, and we could move on without perpetual cutting and
+clearing. It is beautiful to get a good glimpse out on the surrounding
+scenery, though it still seems nearly all covered with great masses of
+umbrageous foliage, mostly of a dark green colour, for nearly all of
+the individual trees possess dark glossy leaves like laurel. We passed
+a gigantic specimen of the Kumb�, or gum-copal tree. Kumba means to
+dig. Changkumb�, or things dug, is the name of the gum; the Arabs call
+it "sandarus�." Did the people give the name Kumb� to the tree after
+the value of the gum became known to them? The Malol�, from the fine
+grained wood of which all the bows are made, had shed its fruit on the
+ground; it looks inviting to the eye--an oblong peach-looking thing,
+with a number of seeds inside, but it is eaten by maggots only.
+
+When we came to Ntand�'s village, we found it enclosed in a strong
+stockade, from a fear of attack by Mabiha, who come across the river
+and steal their women when going to draw water: this is for the Ibo
+market. They offered to pull down their stockade and let us in if we
+would remain over-night, but we declined. Before reaching Ntand� we
+passed the ruins of two villages; the owners were the attacking party
+when we ascended the Rovuma in 1862. I have still the old sail, with
+four bullet-holes through it, made by the shots which they fired after
+we had given cloth and got assurances of friendship. The father and
+son of this village were the two men seen by the second boat preparing
+to shoot; the fire of her crew struck the father on the chin and the
+son on the head. It may have been for the best that the English are
+thus known as people who can hit hard when unjustly attacked, as we on
+this occasion most certainly were: never was a murderous assault more
+unjustly made or less provoked. They had left their villages and gone
+up over the highlands away from the river to their ambush whilst their
+women came to look at us.
+
+_2nd May, 1866._--Mountains again approach us, and we pass one which
+was noticed in our first ascent from its resemblance to a table
+mountain. It is 600 or 800 feet high, and called Liparu: the plateau
+now becomes mountainous, giving forth a perennial stream which comes
+down from its western base and forms a lagoon on the meadow-land that
+flanks the Rovuma. The trees which love these perpetual streams spread
+their roots all over the surface of the boggy banks, and make a firm
+surface, but at spots one may sink a yard deep. We had to fill up
+these deep ditches with branches and leaves, unload the animals, and
+lead them across. We spent the night on the banks of the Liparu,[9]
+and then proceeded on our way.
+
+_3rd May, 1866._--We rested in a Makoa village, the head of which was
+an old woman. The Makoa or Makoan� are known by a half-moon figure
+tattooed on their foreheads or elsewhere. Our poodle dog Chitan�
+chased the dogs of this village with unrelenting fury, his fierce
+looks inspired terror among the wretched pariah dogs of a yellow and
+white colour, and those looks were entirely owing to its being
+difficult to distinguish at which end his head or tail lay. He enjoyed
+the chase of the yelping curs immensely, but if one of them had turned
+he would have bolted the other way.
+
+A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me some meal; this
+was when we were in the act of departing: others had given food to the
+men and no return had been made. I told her to send it on by her
+husband, and I would purchase it, but it would have been better to
+have accepted it: some give merely out of kindly feeling and with no
+prospect of a return.
+
+Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed in double,
+raised lines of about half an inch in length. After the incisions are
+made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh pressed out, so that all the
+cuts are raised above the level of the surface. It gives them rather a
+hideous look, and a good deal of that fierceness which our kings and
+chiefs of old put on whilst having their portraits taken.
+
+_4th May, 1866._--The stream, embowered in perpetual shade and
+overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved trees, we
+found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment was an island
+formed by a branch of it parting and re-entering it again: the owner
+had used it for rice.
+
+The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also to-day,
+from the bites of other flies (which look much more formidable than
+tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down; this symptom I never saw
+before, but when we slaughtered an ox which had been tsetse bitten, we
+observed that the blood had the arterial hue. The cow has inflammation
+of one eye, and a swelling on the right lumbar portion of the pelvis:
+the grey buffalo has been sick, but this I attribute to unmerciful
+loading; for his back is hurt: the camels do not seem to feel the fly,
+though they get weaker from the horrid running sores upon them and
+hard work. There are no symptoms of tsetse in mules or donkeys, but
+one mule has had his shoulder sprained, and he cannot stoop to eat or
+drink.
+
+We saw the last of the flanking range on the north. The country in
+front is plain, with a few detached granitic peaks shot up. The Makoa
+in large numbers live at the end of the range in a place called
+Nyuchi. At Nyamba, a village where we spent the night of the 5th, was
+a doctoress and rain-maker, who presented a large basket of soroko,
+or, as they call it in India, "mung," and a fowl. She is tall and well
+made, with fine limbs and feet, and was profusely tattooed all over;
+even her hips and buttocks had their elaborate markings: no shame is
+felt in exposing these parts.
+
+A good deal of salt is made by lixiviation of the soil and evaporating
+by fire. The head woman had a tame khanga tol� or tufted guinea-fowl,
+with bluish instead of white spots.
+
+In passing along westwards after leaving the end of the range, we came
+first of all on sandstone hardened by fire; then masses of granite, as
+if in that had been contained the igneous agency of partial
+metamorphosis; it had also lifted up the sandstone, so as to cause a
+dip to the east. Then the syenite or granite seemed as if it had been
+melted, for it was all in striae, which striae, as they do elsewhere,
+run east and west. With the change in geological structure we get a
+different vegetation. Instead of the laurel-leaved trees of various
+kinds, we have African ebonies, acacias, and mimosae: the grass is
+shorter and more sparse, and we can move along without wood-cutting.
+We were now opposite a hill on the south called Simba, a lion, from
+its supposed resemblance to that animal. A large Mabiha population
+live there, and make raids occasionally over to this side for slaves.
+
+_6th May, 1866._--Tsetse again. The animals look drowsy. The cow's eye
+is dimmed; when punctured, the skin emits a stream of scarlet blood.
+The people hereabouts seem intelligent and respectful. At service a
+man began to talk, but when I said, "Ku soma Mlungu,"--"we wish to
+pray to God," he desisted. It would be interesting to know what the
+ideas of these men are, and to ascertain what they have gained in
+their communings with nature during the ages past. They do not give
+the idea of that boisterous wickedness and disregard of life which we
+read of in our own dark ages, but I have no one to translate, although
+I can understand much of what is said on common topics chiefly from
+knowing other dialects.
+
+_7th May, 1866._--A camel died during the night, and the grey buffalo
+is in convulsions this morning. The cruelty of these sepoys vitiates
+my experiment, and I quite expect many camels, one buffalo, and one
+mule to die yet; they sit down and smoke and eat, leaving the animals
+loaded in the sun. If I am not with them, it is a constant dawdling;
+they are evidently unwilling to exert themselves, they cannot carry
+their belts and bags, and their powers of eating and vomiting are
+astounding. The Makond� villages are remarkably clean, but no sooner
+do we pass a night in one than the fellows make it filthy. The climate
+does give a sharp appetite, but these sepoys indulge it till relieved
+by vomiting and purging. First of all they breakfast, then an hour
+afterwards they are sitting eating the pocketfuls of corn maize they
+have stolen and brought for the purpose, whilst I have to go ahead,
+otherwise we may be misled into a zigzag course to see Ali's friends;
+and if I remain behind to keep the sepoys on the move, it deprives me
+of all the pleasure of travelling. We have not averaged four miles a
+day in a straight line, yet the animals have often been kept in the
+sun for eight hours at a stretch. When we get up at 4 A.M. we cannot
+get under weigh before 8 o'clock. Sepoys are a mistake.
+
+_7th May, 1866._--We are now opposite a mountain called Nabungala,
+which resembles from the north-east an elephant lying down. Another
+camel, a very good one, died on the way: its shiverings and
+convulsions are not at all like what we observed in horses and oxen
+killed by tsetse, but such may lie the cause, however. The only
+symptom pointing to the tsetse is the arterial-looking blood, but we
+never saw it ooze from the skin after the bite of the gad-fly as we do
+now.
+
+_8th May, 1866._--We arrived at a village called Jpond�, or Lipond�,
+which lies opposite a granitic hill on the other-side of the river
+(where we spent a night on our boat trip), called Nakapuri; this is
+rather odd, for the words are not Makond� but Sichuana, and signify
+goat's horn, from the projections jutting out from the rest of the
+mass. I left the havildar, sepoys, and Nassick boys here in order to
+make a forced march forward, where no food is to be had, and send
+either to the south or westwards for supplies, so that after they have
+rested the animals and themselves five days they may come. One mule is
+very ill; one buffalo drowsy and exhausted; one camel a mere skeleton
+from bad sores; and another has an enormous hole at the point of the
+pelvis, which sticks out at the side. I suspect that this was made
+maliciously, for he came from the field bleeding profusely; no tree
+would have perforated a round hole in this way. I take all the goods
+and leave only the sepoys' luggage, which is enough for all the
+animals now.
+
+_9th May, 1866._--I went on with the Johanna men and twenty-four
+carriers, for it was a pleasure to get away from the sepoys and
+Nassick boys; the two combined to overload the animals. I told them
+repeatedly that they would kill them, but no sooner had I adjusted the
+burdens and turned my back than they put on all their things. It was
+however such continual vexation to contend with the sneaking spirit,
+that I gave up annoying myself by seeing matters, though I felt
+certain that the animals would all be killed. We did at least eight
+miles pleasantly well, and slept at Moedaa village. The rocks are
+still syenite. We passed a valley with the large thorny acacias of
+which canoes are often made, and a euphorbiaceous tree, with
+seed-vessels as large as mandarin oranges, with three seeds inside. We
+were now in a country which, in addition to the Mazitu invasion, was
+suffering from one of those inexplicable droughts to which limited and
+sometimes large portions of this country are subject. It had not been
+nearly so severe on the opposite or south side, and thither too the
+Mazitu had not penetrated. Rushes, which plagued us nearer the coast,
+are not observed now; the grass is all crisp and yellow; many of the
+plants are dead, and leaves are fallen off the trees as if winter had
+begun. The ground is covered with open forest, with here and there
+thick jungle on the banks of the streams. All the rivulets we have
+passed are mere mountain torrents filled with sand, in which the
+people dig for water.
+
+We passed the spot where an Arab called Birkal was asked payment for
+leave to pass. After two and a half days' parley he fought, killed two
+Makond�, and mortally wounded a headman, which settled the matter; no
+fresh demand has been made. Ali's brother also resisted the same sort
+of demand, fought several times, or until three Makond� and two of his
+people were killed; they then made peace, and no other exactions have
+been made.
+
+_11th May, 1866._--We now found a difficulty in getting our carriers
+along, on account of exhaustion from want of food. In going up a sand
+stream called Ny�d�, we saw that all moist spots had been planted with
+maize and beans, so the loss caused by the Mazitu, who swept the land
+like a cloud of locusts, will not be attended by much actual
+starvation. We met a runaway woman: she was seized by Ali, and it was
+plain that he expected a reward for his pains. He thought she was a
+slave, but a quarter of a mile off was the village she had left, and
+it being doubtful if she were a runaway at all, the would-be fugitive
+slave-capture turned out a failure.
+
+_12th May, 1866._--About 4' E.N.E. of Matawatawa, or Nyamatolol�, our
+former turning point.
+
+_13th May, 1866._--We halted at a village at Matawatawa. A
+pleasant-looking lady, with her face profusely tattooed, came forward
+with a bunch of sweet reed, or _Sorghum saceliaratum_, and laid it at
+my feet, saying, "I met you here before," pointing to the spot on the
+river where we turned. I remember her coming then, and that I asked
+the boat to wait while she went to bring us a basket of food, and I
+think it was given to Chiko, and no return made. It is sheer
+kindliness that prompts them sometimes, though occasionally people do
+make presents with a view of getting a larger one in return: it is
+pleasant to find that it is not always so. She had a quiet, dignified
+manner, both in talking and walking, and I now gave her a small
+looking-glass, and she went and brought me her only fowl and a basket
+of cucumber-seeds, from which oil is made; from the amount of oily
+matter they contain thov are nutritious when roasted and eaten as
+nuts. She made an apology, saying they were hungry times at present. I
+gave her a cloth, and so parted with Kana�gon�, or, as her name may be
+spelled, Kana�on�. The carriers were very useless from hunger, and we
+could not buy anything for them; for the country is all dried up, and
+covered sparsely with mimosas and thorny acacias.
+
+_14th May, 1866._--I could not get the carriers on more than an hour
+and three-quarters: men tire very soon on empty stomachs. We had
+reached the village of Hassan�, opposite to a conical hill named
+Chisulw�, which is on the south side of the river, and evidently of
+igneous origin. It is tree-covered, while the granite always shows
+lumps of naked rock. All about lie great patches of beautiful
+dolomite. It may have been formed by baking of the tufa, which in this
+country seems always to have been poured out with water after volcanic
+action. Hassan�'s daughter was just lifting a pot of French beans,
+boiled in their pods, off the fire when we entered the village, these
+he presented to me, and when I invited him to partake, he replied that
+he was at home and would get something, while I was a stranger on a
+journey. He, like all the other headmen, is a reputed doctor, and his
+wife, a stout old lady, a doctoress; he had never married any wife but
+this one, and he had four children, all of whom lived with their
+parents. We employed one of his sons to go to the south side and
+purchase food, sending at the same time some carriers to buy for
+themselves. The siroko and rice bought by Hassan�'s son we deposited
+with him for the party behind, when they should arrive. The amount of
+terror the Mazitu inspire cannot be realized by us. They shake their
+shields and the people fly like stricken deer. I observed that a child
+would not go a few yards for necessary purposes unless grandmother
+stood in sight. Matumora, as the Arabs call the chief at Ngomano, gave
+them a warm reception, and killed several of them: this probably
+induced them to retire.
+
+_15th and 16th May, 1866._--Miserably short marches from hunger, and I
+sympathise with the poor fellows. Those sent to buy food for
+themselves on the south bank were misled by a talkative fellow named
+Chikungu, and went off north, where we knew nothing could be had. His
+object was to get paid for three days, while they only loitered here.
+I suppose hunger has taken the spirit out of them; but I told them
+that a day in which no work was done did not count: they admitted
+this. We pay about two feet of calico per day, and a fathom or six
+feet for three days' carriage.
+
+_17th May, 1866._--With very empty stomachs they came on a few miles
+and proposed to cross to the south side; as this involved crossing the
+Luendi too, I at first objected, but in hopes that we might get food
+for them we consented, and were taken over in two very small canoes. I
+sent Ali and Musa meanwhile to the south to try and get some food. I
+got a little green sorghum for them and paid them off. These are the
+little troubles of travelling, and scarce worth mentioning. A granitic
+peak now appears about 15' off, to the W.S.W. It is called Chihoka.
+
+_18th May, 1866._--At our crossing place metamorphic rocks of a
+chocolate colour stood on edge; and in the country round we have
+patches of dolomite, sometimes as white as marble. The country is all
+dry: grass and leaves crisp and yellow. Though so arid now, yet the
+great abundance of the dried stalks of a water-loving plant, a sort of
+herbaceous acacia, with green pea-shaped flowers, proves that at other
+times it is damp enough. The marks of people's feet floundering in
+slush, but now baked, show that the country can be sloppy.
+
+The headman of the village where we spent the night of 17th is a
+martyr to rheumatism. He asked for medicine, and when I gave some he
+asked me to give it to him out of my own hand. He presented me with a
+basket of siroko and of green sorghum as a fee, of which I was very
+glad, for my own party were suffering, and I had to share out the
+little portion of flour I had reserved to myself.
+
+_19th May, 1866._--Coming on with what carriers we could find at the
+crossing place, we reached the confluence without seeing it; and
+Matumora being about two miles up the Loendi, we sent over to him for
+aid. He came over this morning early,--a tall, well-made man, with a
+somewhat severe expression of countenance, from a number of wrinkles
+on his forehead. He took us over the Loendi, which is decidedly the
+parent stream of the Rovuma, though that as it comes from the west
+still retains the name Loendi from the south-west here, and is from
+150 to 200 yards wide, while the Rovuma above Matawatawa is from 200
+to 250, full of islands, rocks, and sandbanks. The Loendi has the same
+character. We can see the confluence from where we cross about 2' to
+the north. Both rivers are rapid, shoal, and sandy; small canoes are
+used on them, and the people pride themselves on their skilful
+management: in this the women seem in no way inferior to the men.
+
+In looking up the Loendi we see a large granitic peak called Nkanj�,
+some 20 miles off, and beyond it the dim outline of distant highlands,
+in which seams of coal are exposed. Pieces of the mineral are found in
+Loendi's sands.
+
+Matumora has a good character in the country, and many flee to him
+from oppression. He was very polite; sitting on the right bank till
+all the goods were carried over, then coming in the same canoe wifn me
+himself, he opened a fish basket in a weir and gave me the contents,
+and subsequently a little green sorghum. He literally has lost all his
+corn, for he was obliged to flee with his people to Marumba, a rocky
+island in Rovuma, about six miles above Matawatawa. He says that both
+Loendi and Rovuma come out of Lake Nyassa; a boat could not ascend,
+however, because many waterfalls are in their course: it is strange if
+all this is a myth. Matumora asked if the people through whose country
+I had come would preserve the peace I wished. He says he has been
+assailed on all sides by slave-hunters: he alone has never hunted for
+captives: if the people in front should attack me he would come and
+fight them: finally he had never seen a European before (Dr. Roscher
+travelled as an Arab), nor could I learn where Likumbu at Ngomano
+lives; it was with him that Roscher is said to have left his goods.
+
+The Mazitu had women, children, oxen and goats with them. The whole
+tribe lives on plundering the other natives by means of the terror
+their shields inspire; had they gone further down the Rovuma, no ox
+would have survived the tsetse.
+
+_20th May, 1866._--I paid Ali to his entire satisfaction, and
+entrusted him with a despatch, "No. 2 Geographical," and then sent off
+four men south to buy food. Here we are among Matambw�. Two of
+Matumora's men act as guides. We are about 2' south and by west of the
+confluence Ngomano. Lat. 11� 26' 23" S.; long. 37� 40' 52" E.
+
+Abraham, one of the Nassick boys, came up and said he had been sent by
+the sepoys, who declared they would come no further. It was with the
+utmost difficulty they had come so far, or that the havildar had
+forced them on, they would not obey him--would not get up in the
+mornings to march; lay in the paths, and gave their pouches and
+muskets to the natives to carry: they make themselves utterly useless.
+The black buffalo is dead; one camel ditto, and one mule left behind
+ill. Were I not aware of the existence of the tsetse, I should say
+they died from sheer bad treatment and hard work.
+
+I sent a note to be read to the sepoys stating that I had seen their
+disobedience, unwillingness, and skulking, and as soon as I received
+the havildar's formal evidence, I would send them back. I regretted
+parting with the havildar only.
+
+A leopard came a little after dark while the moon was shining, and
+took away a little dog from among us; it is said to have taken off a
+person a few days ago.
+
+_22nd May, 1866._--The men returned with but little food in return for
+much cloth. Matumora is very friendly, but he has nothing to give save
+a little green sorghum, and that he brings daily.
+
+A south wind blows strongly every afternoon. The rains ceased about
+the middle of May, and the temperature is lowered. A few heavy night
+showers closed the rainy season.
+
+_23rd--24th May, 1866._--I took some Lunar observations.
+
+_25th May, 1866._--Matumora is not Ndond�. A chief to the south-west
+of this owns that name and belongs to the Matumbw� tribe.
+
+_26th May, 1866._--I sent Musa westwards to buy food, and he returned
+on the evening of 27th without success; he found an Arab slave-dealer
+waiting in the path, who had bought up all the provisions. About 11
+P.M. we saw two men pass our door with two women in a chain; one man
+carried fire in front, the one behind, a musket. Matumora admits that
+his people sell each other.
+
+_27th May, 1866._--The havildar and Abraham came up. Havildar says
+that all I said in my note was true, and when it was read to the
+sepoys they bewailed their folly, he adds that if they were all sent
+away disgraced, no one would be to blame but themselves. He brought
+them to Hassan�'s, but they were useless, though they begged to be
+kept on: I may give them another trial, but at present they are a sad
+incumbrance. South-west of this the Manganja begin; but if one went by
+them, there is a space beyond in the south-west without people.
+
+The country due west of this is described by all to be so mountainous
+and beset by Mazitu, that there is no possibility of passing that way.
+I must therefore make my way to the middle of the Lake, cross over,
+and then take up my line of 1863.
+
+_2nd June, 1866._--The men sent to the Matambw� south-east of this
+returned with a good supply of grain. The sepoys won't come; they say
+they cannot,--a mere excuse, v because they tried to prevail on the
+Nassick boys to go slowly like them, and wear my patience out. They
+killed one camel with the butt ends of their muskets, beating it till
+it died. I thought of going down disarming them all, and taking five
+or six of the willing ones, but it is more trouble than profit, so I
+propose to start westwards on Monday the 4th, or Tuesday the 5th. My
+sepoys offered Ali eight rupees to take them to the coast, thus it
+has been a regularly organized conspiracy.
+
+From the appearance of the cow-buffalo, I fear the tsetse is its chief
+enemy, but there is a place like a bayonet wound on its shoulder, and
+many of the wounds or bruises on the camels were so probed that I
+suspect the sepoys.
+
+Many things African are possessed of as great vitality in their line
+as the African people. The white ant was imported accidentally into
+St. Helena from the coast of Guinea, and has committed such ravages in
+the town of St. James, that numerous people have been ruined, and the
+governor calls out for aid against them. In other so-called new
+countries a wave of English weeds follows the tide of English
+emigration, and so with insects; the European house-fly chases away
+the blue-bottle fly in New Zealand. Settlers have carried the
+house-fly in bottles and boxes for their new locations, but what
+European insect will follow us and extirpate the tsetse? The Arabs
+have given the Makond� bugs, but we have the house-fly wherever we go,
+the blue-bottle and another like the house-fly, but with a sharp
+proboscis; and several enormous gad-flies. Here there is so much room
+for everything. In New Zealand the Norwegian rat is driven off by even
+the European mouse; not to mention the Hanoverian rat of Waterton,
+which is lord of the land. The Maori say that "as the white man's rat
+has driven away the native rat, so the European fly drives away our
+own; and as the clover kills our fern, so will the Maori disappear
+before the white man himself." The hog placed ashore by Captain Cook
+has now overrun one side of the island, and is such a nuisance that a
+large farmer of 100,000 acres has given sixpence per head for the
+destruction of some 20,000, and without any sensible diminution; this
+would be no benefit here, for the wild hogs abound and do much damage,
+besides affording food for the tsetse: the brutes follow the ewes with
+young, and devour the poor lambs as soon as they make their
+appearance.
+
+_3rd June, 1866._--The cow-buffalo fell down foaming at the mouth, and
+expired. The meat looks fat and nice, and is relished by the people, a
+little glariness seemed to be present on the foreleg, and I sometimes
+think that, notwithstanding the dissimilarity of the symptoms observed
+in the camels and buffaloes now, and those we saw in oxen and horses,
+the evil may be the tsetse, after all, but they have been badly used,
+without a doubt. The calf has a cut half an inch deep, the camels have
+had large ulcers, and at last a peculiar smell, which portends death.
+I feel perplexed, and not at all certain as to the real causes of
+death.
+
+I asked Matumora if the Matambw� believed in God, he replied, that he
+did not know Him, and I was not to ask the people among whom I was
+going if they prayed to Him, because they would imagine that I wished
+them to be killed. I told him that we loved to speak about Him, &c. He
+said, when they prayed they offered a little meal and then prayed, but
+did not know much about Him.
+
+They have all great reverence for the Deity, and the deliberate way in
+which they say "We don't know Him" is to prevent speaking
+irreverently, as that may injure the country. The name is "Mulungu":
+Makochera afterwards said, that "He was not good, because He killed so
+many people."
+
+_4th June, 1866._--Left Ngomano. I was obliged to tell the Nassick
+boys that they must either work or return, it was absurd to have them
+eating up our goods, and not even carrying their own things, and I
+would submit to it no more: five of them carry bales, and two the
+luggage of the rest. Abraham and Richard are behind. I gave them bales
+to carry, and promised them ten rupees per month, to begin on this
+date. Abraham has worked hard all along, and his pay may be due from
+7th April, the day we started from Kindany.
+
+_5th June, 1866._--We slept at a village called Lamba, on the banks of
+the Rovuma, near a brawling torrent of 150 yards, or 200 perhaps, with
+many islands and rocks in it. The country is covered with open forest,
+with patches of cultivation everywhere, but all dried up at present
+and withered, partly from drought and partly from the cold of winter.
+We passed a village with good ripe sorghum cut down, and the heads or
+ears all laid neatly in a row, this is to get it dried in the sun, and
+not shaken out by the wind, by waving to and fro; besides it is also
+more easily watched from being plundered by birds. The sorghum
+occasionally does not yield seed, and is then the _Sorghum
+saccharatum_, for the stalk contains abundance of sugar, and is much
+relished by the natives. Now that so much has failed to yield seed,
+being indeed just in flower, the stalks are chewed as if sugar-cane,
+and the people are fat thereon; but the hungry time is in store when
+these stalles are all done. They make the best provision in their
+power against famine by planting beans and maize in moist spots. The
+common native pumpkin forms a bastard sort in the same way, but that
+is considered very inferior.
+
+_6th June, 1866._--Great hills of granite are occasionally in sight
+towards the north, but the trees, though scraggy, close in the view.
+We left a village, called Mekosi, and goon came to a slaving party by
+a sand stream. They said that they had bought two slaves, but they had
+run away from them, and asked us to remain with them; more civil than
+inviting. We came on to Makochera, the principal headman in this
+quarter, and found him a merry laughing mortal, without any good looks
+to recommend his genial smile,--low forehead, covered with deep
+wrinkles; flat nose, somewhat of the Assyrian shape; a big mouth and
+lean body. He complained of the Machinga (a Waiyau tribe north of him
+and the Rovuma) stealing his people. Lat. of village, 11� 22' 49" S.
+The river being about 2' north, still shows that it makes a trend to
+the north after we pass Ngomano. Makochera has been an elephant
+hunter. Few acknowledge as a reason for slaving that sowing and
+spinning cotton for clothing is painful. I waited some days for the
+Nassick boys, who are behind, though we could not buy any food except
+at enormous prices and long distances off.
+
+_7th June, 1866._--The havildar and two sepoys came up with Abraham,
+but Richard, a Nassick boy, is still behind from weakness. I sent
+three off to help him with the only cordials we could muster. The
+sepoys sometimes profess inability to come on, but it is unwillingness
+to encounter hardship: I must move on whether they come or not, for we
+cannot obtain food here. I sent the sepoys some cloth, and on the 8th
+proposed to start, but every particle of food had been devoured the
+night before, so we despatched two parties to scour the country round,
+and give any price rather than want.
+
+I could not prevail on Makochera to give me a specimen of poetry; he
+was afraid, neither he nor his forefathers had ever seen an
+Englishman. He thought that God was not good because He killed so many
+people. Dr. Roscher must have travelled as an Arab if he came this
+way, for he was not known.[10]
+
+_9th June, 1866._--We now left and marched through the same sort of
+forest, gradually ascending in altitude as we went west, then we came
+to huge masses of granite, or syenite, with flakes peeling off. They
+are covered with a plant with grassy-looking leaves and rough stalk
+which strips into portions similar to what are put round candles as
+ornaments. It makes these hills look light grey, with patches of
+black rock at the more perpendicular parts; the same at about ten
+miles off look dark blue. The ground is often hard and stony, but all
+covered over with grass and plants: looking down at it, the grass is
+in tufts, and like that on the Kalahari desert. Trees show uplands.
+One tree of which bark cloth is made, pterocarpus, is abundant.
+Timber-trees appear here and there, but for the most part the growth
+is stunted, and few are higher than thirty feet. We spent the night by
+a hill of the usual rounded form, called Nje�go. The Rovuma comes
+close by, but leaves us again to wind among similar great masses. Lat.
+11� 20' 05" S.
+
+_10th June, 1866._--A very heavy march through the same kind of
+country, no human habitation appearing; we passed a dead
+body--recently, it was said, starved to death. The large tract between
+Makochera's and our next station at Ngozo hill is without any
+perennial stream; water is found often by digging in the sand streams
+which we several times crossed; sometimes it was a trickling rill, but
+I suspect that at other seasons all is dry, and people are made
+dependent on the Rovuma alone. The first evidence of our being near
+the pleasant haunts of man was a nice little woman drawing water at a
+well. I had become separated from the rest: on giving me water she
+knelt down, and, as country manners require, held it up to me with
+_both_ hands. I had been misled by one of the carriers, who got
+confused, though the rounded mass of Ngozo was plainly visible from
+the heights we crossed east of it.
+
+An Arab party bolted on hearing of our approach: they don't trust the
+English, and this conduct increases our importance among the natives.
+Lat. 11� 18' 10" S.
+
+_11th June, 1866._--Our carriers refuse to go further, because they
+say that they fear being captured here on their return.
+
+_12th June, 1866._--I paid off the carriers, and wait for a set from
+this. A respectable man, called Makoloya, or Impand�, visited me, and
+wished to ask some questions as to where I was going, and how long I
+should be away. He had heard from a man who came from Ibo, or Wibo,
+about the Bible, a large book which was consulted.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo of Matambw�.]
+
+_13th June, 1866._--Makoloya brought his wife and a little corn, and
+says that his father told him that there is a God, but nothing more.
+The marks on their foreheads and bodies are meant only to give beauty
+in the dance, they seem a sort of heraldic ornament, for they can at
+once tell by his tattoo to what tribe or portion of tribe a man
+belongs. The tattoo or tembo of the Matambw� and Upper Makond� very
+much resembles the drawings of the old Egyptians; wavy lines, such as
+the ancients made to signify water, trees and gardens enclosed in
+squares, seem to have been meant of old for the inhabitants who lived
+on the Rovuma, and cultivated also, the son takes the tattoo of his
+father, and thus it has been perpetuated, though the meaning now
+appears lost. The Makoa have the half or nearly full moon, but it is,
+they say, all for ornament. Some blue stuff is rubbed into the cuts (I
+am told it is charcoal), and the ornament shows brightly in persons
+of light complexion, who by the bye are common. The Makond� and
+Matambw� file their front teeth to points; the Machinga, a Waiyan
+tribe, leave two points on the sides of the front teeth, and knock out
+one of the middle incisors above and below.
+
+[Illustration: Machinga and Waiyan Teeth.]
+
+_14th June, 1866._--I am now as much dependent on carriers as if I had
+never bought a beast of burden--but this is poor stuff to fill a
+journal with. We started off to Metaba to see if the chief there would
+lend some men. The headman, Kitwanga, went a long way to convoy us;
+then turned, saying he was going to get men for Musa next day. We
+passed near the base of the rounded masses Ngozo and Mekanga, and
+think, from a near inspection, that they are over 2000 feet above the
+plain, possibly 3000 feet, and nearly bare, with only the peculiar
+grassy plant on some parts which are not too perpendicular. The people
+are said to have stores of grain on them, and on one the chief said
+there is water; he knows of no stone buildings of the olden time in
+the country. We passed many masses of ferruginous conglomerate, and I
+noticed that most of the gneiss dips westwards. The striae seem as if
+the rock had been partially molten: at times the strike is north and
+south, at others east and west; when we come to what may have been its
+surface, it is as if the striae had been stirred with a rod while
+soft.
+
+We slept at a point of the Rovuma, above a cataract where a reach of
+comparatively still water, from 150 to 200 yards wide, allows a school
+of hippopotami to live: when the river becomes fordable in many
+places, as it is said to do in August and September, they must find it
+difficult to exist.
+
+_15th June, 1866._--Another three hours' march brought us from the
+sleeping-place on the Rovuma to Metaba, the chief of which, Kinazomb�,
+is an elderly man, with a cunning and severe cast of countenance, and
+a nose Assyrian in type; he has built a large reception house, in
+which a number of half-caste Arabs have taken up their abode. A great
+many of the people have guns, and it is astonishing to see the number
+of slave-taming sticks abandoned along the road as the poor wretches
+gave in, and professed to have lost all hope of escape. Many huts have
+been built by the Arabs to screen themselves from the rain as they
+travelled. At Kinazomb�'s the second crop of maize is ready, so the
+hunger will not be very much felt.
+
+_16th June, 1866._--We heard very sombre accounts of the country in
+front:--four or five days to Mtarika, and then ten days through jungle
+to Mataka's town: little food at Mtarika's, but plenty with Mataka,
+who is near the Lake. The Rovuma trends southerly after we leave
+Ngozo, and Masusa on that river is pointed out as south-west from
+Metaba, so at Ngozo the river may be said to have its furthest
+northing. Masusa is reported to be five days, or at least fifty miles,
+from Metaba. The route now becomes south-west.
+
+The cattle of Africa are like the Indian buffalo, only partially
+tamed; they never give their milk without the presence of the calf or
+its stuffed skin, the "fulchan." The women adjacent to Mozambique
+partake a little of the wild animal's nature, for, like most members
+of the inferior races of animals, they refuse all intercourse with
+their husbands when enceinte and they continue this for about three
+years afterwards, or until the child is weaned, which usually happens
+about the third year. I was told, on most respectable authority, that
+many fine young native men marry one wife and live happily with her
+till this period; nothing will then induce her to continue to cohabit
+with him, and, as the separation is to continue for three years, the
+man is almost compelled to take up with another wife: this was
+mentioned to me as one of the great evils of society. The same
+absurdity prevails on the West Coast, and there it is said that the
+men acquiesce from ideas of purity.
+
+It is curious that trade-rum should form so important an article of
+import on the West Coast while it is almost unknown on the East Coast,
+for the same people began the commerce in both instances. If we look
+north of Cape Delgado, we might imagine that the religious convictions
+of the Arabs had something to do with the matter, but the Portuguese
+south of Cape Delgado have no scruples in the matter, and would sell
+their grandfathers as well as the rum if they could make money by the
+transaction, they have even erected distilleries to furnish a vile
+spirit from the fruit of the cashew and other fruits and grain, but
+the trade does not succeed. They give their slaves also rewards of
+spirit, or "maata bicho" ("kill the creature," or "craving within"),
+and you may meet a man who, having had much intercourse with
+Portuguese, may beg spirits, but the trade does not pay. The natives
+will drink it if furnished gratis. The indispensable "dash" of rum on
+the West Coast in every political transaction with independent chiefs
+is, however, quite unknown. The Moslems would certainly not abstain
+from trading in spirits were the trade profitable. They often asked
+for brandy from me in a sly way--as medicine; and when reminded that
+their religion forbade it, would say, "Oh, but we can drink it in
+secret."
+
+It is something in the nature of the people quite inexplicable, that
+throughout the Makond� country hernia humoralis prevails to a
+frightful extent; it is believed by the natives to be the result of
+beer drinking, so they cannot be considered as abstemious.
+
+_18th June, 1866._--Finding that Musa did not come up with the goods I
+left in his charge, and fearing that all was not right, we set off
+with all our hands who could carry, after service yesterday morning,
+and in six hours' hard tramp arrived here just in time, for a tribe of
+Wanindi, or Manindi, who are either Ajawas (Waiyau),[11] or pretended
+Mazitu, had tried to cross the Rovuma from the north bank. They came
+as plunderers, and Musa having received no assistance was now ready to
+defend the goods. A shot or two from the people of Kitwanga made the
+Wanindi desert after they had entered the water.
+
+Six sepoys and Simon had come up this length; Reuben and Mabruki
+reported Richard to be dead. This poor boy was left with the others at
+Lipond�, and I never saw him again. I observed him associating too
+much with the sepoys; and often felt inclined to reprove him, as their
+conversation is usually very bad, but I could not of my own knowledge
+say so. He came on with the others as far as Hassan� or Pachassan�:
+there he was too weak to come further, and as the sepoys were
+notoriously skulkers, I feared that poor Richard was led away by them,
+for I knew that they had made many attempts to draw away the other
+Nassick boys from their duty. When, however, Abraham came up and
+reported Richard left behind by the sepoys, I became alarmed, and sent
+off three boys with cordials to help him on: two days after Abraham
+left he seems to have died, and I feel very sorry that I was not there
+to do what I could. I am told now that he never consented to the sepoy
+temptation: he said to Abraham that he wished he were dead, he was so
+much troubled. The people where he died were not v$ry civil to Simon.
+
+The sepoys had now made themselves such an utter nuisance that I felt
+that I must take the upper hand with them, so I called them up this
+morning, and asked if they knew the punishment they had incurred by
+disobeying orders, and attempting to tamper with the Nassick boys to
+turn them back. I told them they not only remained in the way when
+ordered to march, but offered eight rupees to Ali to lead them to the
+coast, and that the excuse of sickness was nought, for they had eaten
+heartily three meals a day while pretending illness. They had no
+excuse to offer, so I disrated the naik or corporal, and sentenced the
+others to carry loads; if they behave well, then they will get fatigue
+pay for doing fatigue duty, if ill, nothing but their pay. Their limbs
+are becoming contracted from sheer idleness; while all the other men
+are well and getting stronger they alone are disreputably slovenly and
+useless-looking. Their filthy habits are to be reformed, and if found
+at their habit of sitting down and sleeping for hours on the march, or
+without their muskets and pouches, they are to be flogged. I sent two
+of them back to bring up two comrades, left behind yesterday. All who
+have done work are comparatively strong.
+
+[We may venture a word in passing on the subject of native recruits,
+enlisted for service in Africa, and who return thither after a long
+absence. All the Nassick boys were native-born Africans, and yet we
+see one of them succumb immediately. The truth is that natives; under
+these circumstances, are just as liable to the effects of malaria on
+landing as Europeans, although it is not often that fever assumes a
+dangerous form in such cases. The natives of the interior have the
+greatest dread of the illnesses which they say are sure to be in store
+for them if they visit the coast.]
+
+_19th June, 1866._--I gave the sepoys light loads in order to inure
+them to exercise and strengthen them, and they carried willingly so
+long as the fright was on them, but when the fear of immediate
+punishment wore off they began their skulking again. One, Perim,
+reduced his load of about 20 lbs. of tea by throwing away the lead in
+which it was rolled, and afterwards about 15 lbs. of the tea, thereby
+diminishing our stock to 5 lbs.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone's short stay in England in 1864-5 was mainly taken up
+with compiling an account of his travels on the Zambesi and Shir�:
+during this time his mother expired in Scotland at a good old age.
+When he went back to Africa he took with him, as part of his very
+scanty travelling equipment, a number of letters which he received
+from friends at different times in England, and he very often quoted
+them when he had an opportunity of sending letters home. We come to an
+entry at this time which shows that in these reminiscences he had not
+thus preserved an unmixed pleasure. He says:--]
+
+I lighted on a telegram to-day:--"Your mother died at noon on the 18th
+June."
+
+This was in 1865: it affected me not a little.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] Further on we found it called Nkonya.
+
+[10] It will be remembered that this German traveller was murdered
+near Lake Nyassa. The native chiefs denounced his assassins, and sent
+them to Zanzibar, where they were executed.--ED.
+
+[11] Further westward amongst the Manganja or Nyassa people the Waiyan
+tribe is called "Ajawa," and we find Livingstone always speaking of
+them as Ajawas in his previous explorations on the River Rovuma. (See
+'The Zambesi and its Tributaries.')--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's.
+    Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of
+    slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyan metropolis.
+    Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen
+    cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness
+    of climate. The Waiyan people and their peculiarities. Regrets
+    at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans.
+
+_19th June, 1866._--We passed a woman tied by the neck to a tree and
+dead, the people of the country explained that she had been unable to
+keep up with the other slaves in a gang, and her master had determined
+that she should not become the property of anyone else if she
+recovered after resting for a time. I may mention here that we saw
+others tied up in a similar manner, and one lying in the path shot or
+stabbed[12], for she was in a pool of blood. The explanation we got
+invariably was that the Arab who owned these victims was enraged at
+losing his money by the slaves becoming unable to march, and vented
+his spleen by murdering them; but I have nothing more than common
+report in support of attributing this enormity to the Arabs.
+
+_20th June, 1866._--Having returned to Metaba, we were told by
+Kinazomb�, the chief, that no one had grain to sell but himself. He
+had plenty of powder and common cloth from the Arabs, and our only
+chance with him was parting with our finer cloths and other things
+that took his fancy. He magnified the scarcity in front in order to
+induce us to buy all we could from him, but he gave me an ample meal
+of porridge and guinea-fowl before starting.
+
+_21st June, 1866._--We had difficulties about carriers, but on
+reaching an island in the Rovuma, called Chimiki, we found the people
+were Makoa and more civil and willing to work than the Waiyau: we sent
+men back to bring up the havildar to a very civil headman called
+Chirikaloma.
+
+_22nd June, 1866._--A poor little boy with prolapsus ani was carried
+yesterday by his mother many a weary mile, lying over her right
+shoulder--the only position he could find ease in,--an infant at the
+breast occupied the left arm, and on her head were carried two
+baskets. The mother's love was seen in binding up the part when we
+halted, whilst the coarseness of low civilization was evinced in the
+laugh with which some black brutes looked at the sufferer.
+
+_23rd June, 1866._--The country is covered with forest, much more open
+than further east. We are now some 800 feet above the sea. The people
+all cultivate maize near the Rovuma, and on islands where moisture
+helps them, nearly all possess guns, and plenty of powder and fine
+beads,--red ones strung on the hair, and fine blue ones in rolls on
+the neck, fitted tightly like soldiers' stocks. The lip-ring is
+universal; teeth filed to points.
+
+_24th June, 1866._--Immense quantities of wood are cut down, collected
+in heaps, and burned to manure the land, but this does not prevent the
+country having an appearance of forest. Divine service at 8.30 A.M.;
+great numbers looking on. They have a clear idea of the Supreme Being,
+but do not pray to Him.. Cold south winds prevail; temp. 55�. One of
+the mules is very ill--it was left with the havildar when we went back
+to Ngozo, and probably remained uncovered at night, for as soon as we
+saw it, illness was plainly visible. Whenever an animal has been in
+their power the sepoys have abused it. It is difficult to feel
+charitably to fellows whose scheme seems to have been to detach the
+Nassick boys from me first, then, when the animals were all killed,
+the Johanna men, afterwards they could rule me as they liked, or go
+back and leave me to perish; but I shall try to feel as charitably as
+I can in spite of it all, for the mind has a strong tendency to brood
+over the ills of travel. I told the havildar when I came up to him at
+Metaba what I had done, and that I was very much displeased with the
+sepoys for compassing my failure, if not death; an unkind word had
+never passed my lips to them: to this he could bear testimony. He
+thought that they would only be a plague and trouble to me, but he
+"would go on and die with me."
+
+Stone boiling is unknown in these countries, but ovens are made in
+anthills. Holes are dug in the ground for baking the heads of large
+game, as the zebra, feet of elephants, humps of rhinoceros, and the
+production of fire by drilling between the palms of the hands is
+universal. It is quite common to see the sticks so used attached to
+the clothing or bundles in travelling; they wet the blunt end of the
+upright stick with the tongue, and dip it in the sand to make some
+particles of silica adhere before inserting it in the horizontal
+piece. The wood of a certain wild fig-tree is esteemed as yielding
+fire readily.
+
+In wet weather they prefer to carry fire in the dried balls of
+elephants' dung which are met with--the male's being about eight
+inches in diameter and about a foot long: they also employ the stalk
+of a certain plant which grows on rocky places for the same purpose.
+
+We bought a senz�, or _Aulacaudatus Swindernianus_, which had been
+dried over a slow fire. This custom of drying fish, flesh, and fruits,
+on stages over slow fires, is practised very generally: the use of
+salt for preservation is unknown. Besides stages for drying, the
+Makond� use them about six feet high for sleeping on instead of the
+damp ground: a fire beneath helps to keep off the mosquitoes, and they
+are used by day as convenient resting-places and for observation.
+
+Pottery seems to have been known to the Africans from the remotest
+times, for fragments are found everywhere, even among the oldest
+fossil bones in the country. Their pots for cooking, holding water and
+beer, are made by the women, and the form is preserved by the eye
+alone, for no sort of machine is ever used. A foundation or bottom is
+first laid, and a piece of bone or bamboo used to scrape the clay or
+to smooth over the pieces which are added to increase the roundness;
+the vessel is then left a night: the next morning a piece is added to
+the rim--as the air is dry several rounds may be added--and all is
+then carefully smoothed off; afterwards it is thoroughly sun-dried. A
+light fire of dried cow-dung, or corn-stalks, or straw, and grass with
+twigs, is made in a hole in the ground for the final baking. Ornaments
+are made on these pots of black lead, or before being hardened by the
+sun they are ornamented for a couple or three inches near the rim, all
+the tracery being in imitation of plaited basket work.
+
+Chirikaloma says that the surname of the Makoa, to whom he belongs, is
+Mirazi--others have the surname Melola or Malola--Chimposola. All had
+the half-moon mark when in the south-east, but now they leave it off a
+good deal and adopt the Waiyau marks, because of living in their
+country. They show no indications of being named after beasts and
+birds. Mirazi was an ancestor; they eat all clean animals, but refuse
+the hyaena, leopard, or any beast that devours dead men.[13]
+
+_25th June, 1866._--On leaving Chirikaloma we came on to Namalo,
+whose village that morning had been deserted, the people moving off in
+a body towards the Matambw� country, where food is more abundant. A
+poor little girl was left in one of the huts from being too weak to
+walk, probably an orphan. The Arab slave-traders flee from the path as
+soon as they hear of our approach. The Rovuma is from 56 to 80 yards
+wide here. No food to be had for either love or money.
+
+Near many of the villages we observe a wand bent and both ends
+inserted into the ground: a lot of medicine, usually the bark of
+trees, is buried beneath it. When sickness is in a village, the men
+proceed to the spot, wash themselves with the medicine and water,
+creep through beneath the bough, then bury the medicine and the evil
+influence together. This is also used to keep off evil spirits, wild
+beasts, and enemies.
+
+Chirikaloma told us of a child in his tribe which was deformed from
+his birth. He had an abortive toe where his knee should have been;
+some said to his mother, "Kill him;" but she replied, "How can I kill
+my son?" He grew up and had many fine sons and daughters, but none
+deformed like himself: this was told in connection with an answer to
+my question about the treatment of Albinoes: he said they did not kill
+them, but they never grew to manhood. On inquiring if he had ever
+heard of cannibals, or people with tails, he replied, "Yes, but we
+have always understood that these and other monstrosities are met with
+only among you sea-going people." The other monstrosities he referred
+to were those who are said to have eyes behind the head as well as in
+front: I have heard of them before, but then I was near Angola, in the
+west.
+
+The rains are expected here when the Pleiades appear in the east soon
+after sunset; they go by the same name here as further south--Lemila
+or the "hoeings."
+
+In the route along the Rovuma, we pass among people who are so well
+supplied with white calico by the slave-trade from Kilwa, that it is
+quite a drug in the market: we cannot get food for it. If we held on
+westwards we should cross several rivers flowing into the Rovuma from
+the southward, as the Zandulo, the Sanjenz�, the Lochiringo, and then,
+in going round the north end of Nyassa, we should pass among the
+Nindi, who now inhabit the parts vacated by the Mazitu, and imitate
+them in having shields and in marauding. An Arab party went into their
+country, and got out again only by paying a whole bale of calico; it
+would not be wise in me to venture there at present, but if we return
+this way we may; meanwhile we shall push on to Mataka, who is only a
+few days off from the middle of the Lake, and has abundance of
+provisions.
+
+_26th June, 1866._--My last mule died. In coming along in the morning
+we were loudly accosted by a well-dressed woman who had just had a
+very heavy slave-taming stick put on her neck; she called in such an
+authoritative tone to us to witness the flagrant injustice of which
+she was the victim that all the men stood still and went to hear the
+case. She was a near relative of Chirikaloma, and was going up the
+river to her husband, when the old man (at whose house she was now a
+prisoner) caught her, took her servant away from her, and kept her in
+the degraded state we saw. The withes with which she was bound were
+green and sappy. The old man said in justification that she was
+running away from Chirikaloma, and he would be offended with him if he
+did not secure her.
+
+I asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly tone what he
+expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said, "Nothing." Several
+slaver-looking fellows came about, and I felt sure that the woman had
+been seized in order to sell her to them, so I gave the captor a cloth
+to pay to Chirikaloma if he were offended, and told him to say that
+I, feeling ashamed to see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had
+released her, and would, take her on to her husband.
+
+She is evidently a lady among them, having many fine beads and some
+strung on elephant's hair: she has a good deal of spirit too, for on
+being liberated she went into the old man's house and took her basket
+and calabash. A virago of a wife shut the door and tried to prevent
+her, as well as to cut off the beads from her person, but she resisted
+like a good one, and my men thrust the door open and let her out, but
+minus her slave. The other wife--for old officious had two--joined her
+sister in a furious tirade of abuse, the elder holding her sides in
+regular fishwife fashion till I burst into a laugh, in which the
+younger wife joined. I explained to the different headmen in front of
+this village what I had done, and sent messages to Chirikaloma
+explanatory of my friendly deed to his relative, so that no
+misconstruction should be put on my act.
+
+We passed a slave woman shot or stabbed through the body and lying on
+the path: a group of mon stood about a hundred yards off on one side,
+and another of women on the other side, looking on; they said an Arab
+who passed early that morning had done it in anger at losing the price
+he had given for her, because she was unable to walk any longer.
+
+_27th June, 1866._--To-day we came upon a man dead from starvation, as
+he was very thin. One of our men wandered and found a number of slaves
+with slave-sticks on, abandoned by their master from want of food;
+they were too weak to be able to speak or say where they had come
+from; some were quite young. We crossed the Tulosi, a stream coming
+from south, about twenty yards wide.
+
+At Chenjewala's the people are usually much startled when I explain
+that the numbers of slaves we see dead on the road have been killed
+partly by those who sold them, for I tell them that if they sell
+their fellows, they are like the man who holds the victim while the
+Arab performs the murder.
+
+Chenjewala blamed Machemba, a chief above him on the Rovuma, for
+encouraging the slave-trade; I told him I had travelled so much among
+them that I knew all the excuses they could make, each headman blamed
+some one else.
+
+"It would be better if you kept your people and cultivated more
+largely," said I, "Oh, Machemba sends his men and robs our gardens
+after we have cultivated," was the reply. One man said that the Arabs
+who come and tempt them with fine clothes are the cause of their
+selling: this was childish, so I told them they would very soon have
+none to sell: their country was becoming jungle, and all their people
+who did not die in the road would be making gardens for Arabs at Kilwa
+and elsewhere.
+
+_28th June, 1866._--When we got about an hour from Chenjewala's we
+came to a party in the act of marauding; the owners of the gardens
+made off for the other side of the river, and waved to us to go
+against the people of Machemba, but we stood on a knoll with all our
+goods on the ground, and waited to see how matters would turn out. Two
+of the marauders came to us and said they had captured five people. I
+suppose they took us for Arabs, as they addressed Musa. They then took
+some green maize, and so did some of my people, believing that as all
+was going, they who were really starving might as well have a share.
+
+I went on a little way with the two marauders, and by the footprints
+thought the whole party might amount to four or five with guns; the
+gardens and huts were all deserted. A poor woman was sitting, cooking
+green maize, and one of the men ordered her to follow him. I said to
+him, "Let her alone, she is dying." "Yes," said he, "of hunger," and
+went'on without her.
+
+We passed village after village, and gardens all deserted! We were
+now between two contending parties. We slept at one garden; and as we
+were told by Chenjewala's people to take what we liked, and my men had
+no food, we gleaned what congo beans, bean leaves, and sorghum stalks
+we could,--poor fare enough, but all we could get.
+
+_29th June, 1866._--We came onto Machemba's brother, Chimseia, who
+gave us food at once. The country is now covered with deeper soil, and
+many large acacia-trees grow in the rich loam: the holms too are
+large, and many islands afford convenient maize grounds. One of the
+Nassiek lads came up and reported his bundle, containing 240 yards of
+calico, had been stolen; he went aside, leaving it on the path
+(probably fell asleep), and it was gone when he came back. I cannot
+impress either on them or the sepoys that it is wrong to sleep on the
+march.
+
+Akosakon�, whom we had liberated, now arrived at the residence of her
+husband, who was another brother of Machemba. She behaved like a lady
+all through, sleeping at a fire apart from the men. The ladies of the
+different villages we passed condoled with her, and she related to
+them the indignity that had been done to her. Besides this she did us
+many services: she bought food for us, because, having a good address,
+we saw that she could get double what any of our men could purchase
+for the same cloth; she spoke up for us when any injustice was
+attempted, and, when we were in want of carriers, volunteered to carry
+a bag of beads on her head. On arriving at Machemba's brother,
+Chimseia, she introduced me to him, and got him to be liberal to us in
+food on account of the service we had rendered to her. She took leave
+of us all with many expressions of thankfulness, and we were glad that
+we had not mistaken her position or lavished kindness on the
+undeserving.
+
+One Johanna man was caught stealing maize, then another, after I had
+paid for the first. I sent a request to the chief not to make much of
+a grievance about it, as I was very much ashamed at my men stealing;
+he replied that he had liked me from the first, and I was not to fear,
+as whatever service he could do he would most willingly in order to
+save me pain and trouble. A sepoy now came up having given his musket
+to a man to carry, who therefore demanded payment. As it had become a
+regular nuisance for the sepoys to employ people to carry for them,
+telling them that I would pay, I demanded why he had promised in my
+name. "Oh, it was but a little way he carried the musket," said he.
+Chimseia warned us next morning, 30th June, against allowing any one
+to straggle or steal in front, for stabbing and plundering were the
+rule. The same sepoy who had employed a man to carry his musket now
+came forward, with his eyes fixed and shaking all over. This, I was to
+understand, meant extreme weakness; but I had accidentally noticed him
+walking quite smartly before this exhibition, so I ordered him to keep
+close to the donkey that carried the havildar's luggage, and on no
+account to remain behind the party. He told the havildar that he would
+sit down only for a little while; and, I suppose, fell asleep, for he
+came up to us in the evening as naked as a robin.
+
+I saw another person bound to a tree and dead--a sad sight to see,
+whoever was the perpetrator. So many slave-sticks lie along our path,
+that I suspect the people here-about make a practice of liberating
+what slaves they cian find abandoned on the march, to sell them again.
+
+A large quantity of maize is cultivated at Chimsaka's, at whose place
+we this day arrived. We got a supply, but being among thieves, we
+thought it advisable to move on to the next place (Mtarika's). When
+starting, we found that fork, kettle, pot, and shot-pouch had been
+taken. The thieves, I observed, kept up a succession of jokes with
+Chuma and Wikatani and when the latter was enjoying them, gaping to
+the sky, they were busy putting the things of which he had charge
+under their cloths! I spoke to the chief, and he got the three first
+articles back for me.
+
+A great deal if not all the lawlessness of this quarter is the result
+of the slave-trade, for the Arabs buy whoever is brought to them and
+in a country covered with forest as this is, kidnapping can be
+prosecuted with the greatest ease; elsewhere the people are honest,
+and have a regard for justice.
+
+_1st July, 1866._--As we approach Mtarika's place, the country becomes
+more mountainous and the land sloping for a mile down to the south
+bank of the Rovuma supports a large population. Some were making new
+gardens by cutting down trees and piling the branches for burning;
+others had stored tip large quantities of grain and were moving it to
+a new locality, but they were all so well supplied with calico
+(Merikano) that they would not look at ours: the market was in fact
+glutted by slavers from (Quiloa) Kilwa. On asking why people were seen
+tied to trees to die as we had seen them, they gave the usual answer
+that the Arabs tie them thus and leave them to perish, because they
+are vexed, when the slaves can walk no further, that they have lost
+their money by them. The path is almost strewed with slave-sticks, and
+though the people denied it, I suspect that they make a practice of
+following slave caravans and cutting off the sticks from those who
+fall out in the march, and thus stealing them. By selling them again
+they get the quantities of cloth we see. Some asked for gaudy prints,
+of which we had none, because we knew that the general taste of the
+Africans of the Interior is for strength rather than show in what they
+buy.
+
+The Rovuma here is about 100 yards broad, and still keeps up its
+character of a rapid stream, with sandy banks and islands: the latter
+are generally occupied, as being defensible when the river is in
+flood.
+
+_2nd July, 1866._--We rested at Mtarika's old place; and though we had
+to pay dearly with our best table-cloths[14] for it, we got as much as
+made one meal a day. At the same dear rate we could give occasionally
+only two ears of maize to each man; and if the sepoys got their
+comrades' corn into their hands, they eat it without shame. We had to
+bear a vast amount of staring, for the people, who are Waiyau, have a
+great deal of curiosity, and are occasionally rather rude. They have
+all heard of our wish to stop the slave-trade, and are rather taken
+aback when told that by selling they are part and part guilty of the
+mortality of which we had been unwilling spectators. Some were
+dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of their Maker they are parties
+to the destruction of human life which accompanies this traffic both
+by sea and land. If they did not sell, the Arabs would not come to
+buy. Chuma and Wakatani render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau,
+most of the people being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling of
+slaves. Chimseia, Chimsaka, Mtarika, Mtend�, Makanjela, Mataka, and
+all the chiefs and people in our route to the Lake, are Waiyau, or
+Waiau.[15]
+
+On the southern slope down to the river there are many oozing springs
+and damp spots where rice has been sown and reaped. The adjacent land
+has yielded large crops of sorghum, congo-beans, and pumpkins.
+Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My appearance and acts often
+cause a burst of laughter; sudden standing up produces a flight of
+women and children. To prevent peeping into the hut which I occupy,
+and making the place quite dark, I do my writing in the verandah.
+Chitan�, the poodle dog, the buffalo-calf, and our only remaining
+donkey are greeted with the same amount of curiosity and
+laughter-exciting comment as myself.
+
+Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard from the
+different villages along the river; these are imitation evening guns.
+All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing tobacco with "nora" lime, made
+from burnt river shells instead of betel-nut and lime. The women are
+stout, well-built persons, with thick arms and legs; their heads
+incline to the bullet shape; the lip-rings are small; the tattoo a
+mixture of Makoa and Waiyau. Fine blue and black beads are in fashion,
+and so are arm-coils of thick brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are
+worn in the hair; the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got
+from the root of an orchis called _Nangazu_.
+
+_3rd July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Mtarika's new place.
+The chief made his appearance only after he had ascertained all he
+could about us. The population is immense; they are making new
+gardens, and the land is laid out by straight lines about a foot
+broad, cut with the hoe; one goes miles without getting beyond the
+marked or surveyed fields.
+
+Mtarika came at last; a big ugly man, with large mouth and receding
+forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, as the watch, revolver,
+breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave him a lecture on the evil of
+selling his people, and he wished me to tell all the other chiefs the
+same thing.
+
+They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for having sold
+many who have lost their lives on their way down to the sea-coast. We
+had a long visit from Mtarika next day; he gave us meal, and meat of
+wild hog, with a salad made of bean-leaves. A wretched Swaheli Arab,
+ill with rheumatism, came for aid, and got a cloth. They all profess
+to me to be buying ivory only.
+
+_5th July, 1866._--We left for Mtend�, who is the last chief before
+we enter on a good eight days' march to Mataka's; we might have gone
+to Kandulo's, who is near the Rovuma, and more to the north, but all
+are so well supplied with everything by slave-traders that we have
+difficulty in getting provisions at all. Mataka has plenty of all
+kinds of food. On the way we passed the burnt bones of a person Avho
+was accused of having eaten human flesh; he had been poisoned, or, as
+they said, killed by poison (muave?), and then burned. His clothes
+were hung, up on trees by the wayside as a warning to others. The
+country was covered with scraggy forest, but so undulating that one
+could often see all around from the crest of the waves. Great mountain
+masses appear in the south and south-west. It feels cold, and the sky
+is often overcast.
+
+_6th July, 1866._--I took lunars yesterday, after which Mtend� invited
+us to eat at his house where he had provided a large mess of rice
+porridge and bean-leaves as a relish. He says that many Arabs pass him
+and many of them die in their journeys. He knows no deaf or dumb
+person in the country. He says that he cuts the throats of all animals
+to be eaten, and does not touch lion or hyaena.
+
+_7th July, 1866._--We got men from Mtend� to carry loads and show the
+way. He asked a cloth to ensure his people going to the journey's end
+and behaving properly; this is the only case of anything like tribute
+being demanded in this journey: I gave him a cloth worth 5s. 6d.
+Upland vegetation prevails; trees are dotted here and there among
+bushes five feet high, and fine blue and yellow flowers are common. We
+pass over a succession of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley
+has a running stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full
+bloom, and also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath the
+flowers.
+
+When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead lining, I only
+reproved him and promised him punishment if he committed any other
+wilful offence, but now he and another skulked behind and gave their
+loads to a stranger to carry, with a promise to him that I would pay.
+We waited two hours for them; and as the havildar said that they would
+not obey him, I gave Perim and the other some smart cuts with a cane,
+but I felt that I was degrading myself, and resolved not to do the
+punishment myself again.
+
+_8th July, 1866._--Hard travelling through a depopulated country. The
+trees are about the size of hop-poles with abundance of tall grass;
+the soil is sometimes a little sandy, at other times that reddish,
+clayey sort which yields native grain so well. The rock seen uppermost
+is often a ferruginous conglomerate, lying on granite rocks. The
+gum-copal tree is here a mere bush, and no digging takes place for the
+gum: it is called Mchenga, and yields gum when wounded, as also bark,
+cloth, and cordage when stripped. Mountain masses are all around us;
+we sleep at Linata mountain.
+
+_9th July, 1866._--The Masuko fruit abounds: the name is the same here
+as in the Batoka country; there are also rhododendrons of two species,
+but the flowers white. We slept in a wild spot, near Mount Leziro,
+with many lions roaring about us; one hoarse fellow serenaded us a
+long time, but did nothing more. Game is said to be abundant, but we
+saw none, save an occasional diver springing away from the path. Some
+streams ran to the north-west to the Lismyando, which flows N. for the
+Rovuma; others to the south-east for the Loendi.
+
+_10th and 11th July, 1866._--Nothing to interest but the same weary
+trudge: our food so scarce that we can only give a handful or half a
+pound of grain to each person per day. The Masuko fruit is formed, but
+not ripe till rains begin; very few birds are seen or heard, though
+there is both food and water in the many grain-bearing grasses and
+running streams, which we cross at the junction of every two ridges.
+A dead body lay in a hut by the wayside; the poor thing had begun to
+make a garden by the stream, probably in hopes of living long enough
+(two months or so) on wild fruits to reap a crop of maize.
+
+_12th July, 1866._--A drizzling mist set in during the night and
+continued this morning, we set off in the dark, however, leaving our
+last food for the havildar and sepoys who had not yet come up. The
+streams are now of good size. An Arab brandy bottle was lying broken
+in one village called Msapa. We hurried on as fast as we could to the
+Luatiz�, our last stage before getting to Mataka's; this stream is
+rapid, about forty yards wide, waist deep, with many podostemons on
+the bottom. The country gets more and more undulating and is covered
+with masses of green foliage, chiefly Masuko trees, which have large
+hard leaves. There are hippopotami further down the river on its way
+to the Loendi. A little rice which had been kept for me I divided, but
+some did not taste food.
+
+_13th July, 1866._--A good many stragglers behind, but we push on to
+get food and send it back to them. The soil all reddish clay, the
+roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of many of us are weary and
+sore: a weary march and long, for it is perpetually up and down now. I
+counted fifteen running streams in one day: they are at the bottom of
+the valley which separates the ridges. We got to the brow of a ridge
+about an hour from Mataka's first gardens, and all were so tired that
+we remained to sleep; but we first invited volunteers to go on and buy
+food, and bring it back early next morning: they had to be pressed to
+do this duty.
+
+_14th July, 1866._--As our volunteers did not come at 8 A.M., I set
+off to see the cause, and after an hour of perpetual up and down
+march, as I descended the steep slope which overlooks the first
+gardens, I saw my friends start up at the apparition--they were
+comfortably cooking porridge for themselves! I sent men of Mataka
+back with food to the stragglers behind and came on to his town.
+
+An Arab, Sef Rupia or Rubea, head of a large body of slaves, on his
+way to the coast, most kindly came forward and presented an ox, bag of
+flour, and some cooked meat, all of which were extremely welcome to
+half-famished men, or indeed under any circumstances. He had heard of
+our want of food and of a band of sepoys, and what could the English
+think of doing but putting an end to the slave-trade? Had he seen our
+wretched escort, all fear of them would have vanished! He had a large
+safari or caravan under him. This body is usually divided into ten or
+twelve portions, and all are bound to obey the leader to � certain
+extent: in this case there were eleven parties, and the traders
+numbered about sixty or seventy, who were dark coast Arabs. Each
+underling had his men under him, and when I saw them they were busy
+making the pens of branches in which their slaves and they sleep. Sef
+came on with me to Mataka's, and introduced me in due form with
+discharges of gunpowder. I asked him to come back next morning, and
+presented three cloths with a request that he would assist the
+havildar and sepoys, if he met them, with food: this he generously
+did.
+
+We found Mataka's town situated in an elevated valley surrounded by
+mountains; the houses numbered at least 1000, and there were many
+villages around. The mountains were pleasantly green, and had many
+trees which the people were incessantly cutting down. They had but
+recently come here: they were besieged by Mazitu at their former
+location west of this; after fighting four days they left unconquered,
+having beaten the enemy off.
+
+Mataka kept us waiting some time in the verandah of his large square
+house, and then made his appearance, smiling with his good-natured
+face. He is about sixty years of age, dressed as an Arab, and if we
+may judge from the laughter with which his remarks were always
+greeted, somewhat humorous. He had never seen any but Arabs before. He
+gave me a square house to live in, indeed the most of the houses here
+are square, for the Arabs are imitated in everything: they have
+introduced the English pea, and we were pleased to see large patches
+of it in full bearing, and ripe in moist hollows which had been
+selected for it. The numerous springs which come out at various parts
+are all made use of. Those parts which are too wet are drained, whilst
+beds are regularly irrigated by water-courses and ridges: we had
+afterwards occasion to admire the very extensive draining which has
+been effected among the hills. Cassava is cultivated on ridges along
+all the streets in the town, which give it a somewhat regular and neat
+appearance. Peas and tobacco were the chief products raised by
+irrigation, but batatas and maize were often planted too: wheat would
+succeed if introduced. The altitude is about 2700 feet above the sea:
+the air at this time is cool, and many people have coughs.
+
+Mataka soon sent a good mess of porridge and cooked meat (beef); he
+has plenty of cattle and sheep: and the next day he sent abundance of
+milk. We stand a good deal of staring unmoved, though it is often
+accompanied by remarks by no means complimentary; they think that they
+are not understood, and probably I do misunderstand sometimes. The
+Waiyau jumble their words as I think, and Mataka thought that I did
+not enunciate anything, but kept my tongue still when I spoke.
+
+Town of Matak, Moemb�. _15th July, 1866._--The safari under Sef set
+off this morning for Kilwa. Sef says that about 100 of the Kilwa
+people died this year, so slaving as well as philanthropy is
+accompanied with loss of life: we saw about seven of their graves; the
+rest died on the road up.
+
+There are two roads from this to the Lake, one to Los�wa, which is
+west of this, and opposite Kotakota; the other, to Makatu, is further
+south: the first is five days through deserted country chiefly; but
+the other, seven, among people and plenty of provisions all the way.
+
+It struck me after Sef had numbered up the losses that the Kilwa
+people sustained by death in their endeavours to �nslave people,
+similar losses on the part of those who go to "proclaim liberty to the
+captives, the opening of the prison to them that are bound,"--to save
+and elevate, need not be made so very much of as they sometimes are.
+
+Soon after our arrival we heard that a number of Mataka's Waiyau had,
+without his knowledge, gone to Nyassa, and in a foray carried off
+cattle and people: when they came home with the spoil, Mataka ordered
+all to be sent back whence they came. The chief came up to visit me
+soon after, and I told him that his decision was the best piece of
+news I had heard in the country: he was evidently pleased with my
+approbation, and, turning to his people, asked if they heard what I
+said. He repeated my remark, and said, "You silly fellows think me
+wrong in returning the captives, but all wise men will approve of it,"
+and he then scolded them roundly.
+
+I was accidentally spectator of this party going back, for on going
+out of the town I saw a meat market opened, and people buying with
+maize and meal. On inquiring, I was told that the people and cattle
+there were the Nyassas, and they had slaughtered an ox, in order to
+exchange meat for grain as provisions on the journey. The women and
+children numbered fifty-four, and about a dozen boys were engaged in
+milking the cows: the cattle were from twenty-five to thirty head.
+
+The change from hard and scanty fare caused illness in several of our
+party. I had tasted no animal food except what turtle-doves and
+guinea-fowls could be shot since we passed Matawatawa,--true, a fowl
+was given by Mtend�. The last march was remarkable for the scarcity of
+birds, so eight days were spent on porridge and rice without relish.
+
+I gave Mataka a trinket, to be kept in remembrance of his having sent
+back the Nyassa people: he replied that he would always act in a
+similar manner. As it was a spontaneous act, it was all the more
+valuable.
+
+The sepoys have become quite intolerable, and if I cannot get rid of
+them we shall all starve before we accomplish what we wish. They
+dawdle behind picking up wild fruits, and over our last march (which
+we accomplished on the morning of the eighth day) they took from
+fourteen to twenty-two days. Retaining their brutal feelings to the
+last they killed the donkey which I lent to the havildar to carry his
+things, by striking it on the head when in boggy places into which
+they had senselessly driven it loaded; then the havildar came on (his
+men pretending they could go no further from weakness), and killed the
+young buffalo and eat it when they thought they could hatch up a
+plausible story. They said it had died, and tigers came and devoured
+it--they saw them. "Did you see the stripes of the tiger?" said I. All
+declared that they saw the stripes distinctly. This gave us an idea of
+their truthfulness, as there is no striped tiger in all Africa. All
+who resolved on skulking or other bad behaviour invariably took up
+with the sepoys; their talk seemed to suit evil-doers, and they were
+such a disreputable-looking lot that I was quite ashamed of them. The
+havildar had no authority, and all bore the sulky dogged look of
+people going where they were forced but hated to go. This hang-dog
+expression of countenance was so conspicuous that I many a time have
+heard the country people remark, "These are the slaves of the party."
+They have neither spirit nor pluck as compared with the Africans, and
+if one saw a village he turned out of the way to beg in the most
+abject manner, or lay down and slept, the only excuse afterwards
+being, "My legs were sore." Having allowed some of them to sleep at
+the fire in my house, they began a wholesale plunder of everything
+they could sell, as cartridges, cloths, and meat, so I had to eject
+them. One of them then threatened to shoot my interpreter Simon if he
+got him in a quiet place away from the English power. As this threat
+had been uttered three times, and I suspect that something of the kind
+had prevented the havildar exerting his authority, I resolved to get
+rid of them by sending them back to the coast by the first trader. It
+is likely that some sympathizers will take their part, but I strove to
+make them useful. They had but poor and scanty fare in a part of the
+way, but all of us suffered alike. They made themselves thoroughly
+disliked by their foul talk and abuse, and if anything tended more
+than another to show me that theirs was a moral unfitness for travel,
+it was the briskness assumed when they knew they were going back to
+the coast. I felt inclined to force them on, but it would have been
+acting from revenge, and to pay them out, so I forbore. I gave Mataka
+forty-eight yards of calico, and to the sepoys eighteen yards, and
+arranged that he should give them food till Suleiman, a respectable
+trader, should arrive. He was expected every day, and we passed him
+near the town. If they chose to go and get their luggage, it was of
+course all safe for them behind. The havildar begged still to go on
+with me, and I consented, though he is a drag on the party, but he
+will count in any difficulty.
+
+Abraham recognised his uncle among the crowds who came to see us. On
+making himself known he found that his mother and two sisters had been
+sold to the Arabs after he had been enslaved. The uncle pressed him to
+remain, and Mataka urged, and so did another uncle, but in vain. I
+added my voice, and could have given him goods to keep him afloat a
+good while, but he invariably replied, "How can I stop where I have no
+mother and no sister?" The affection seems to go to the maternal side.
+I suggested that he might come after he had married a wife, but I fear
+very much that unless some European would settle, none of these
+Nassick boys will come to this country. It would be decidedly better
+if they were taught agriculture in the simplest form, as the Indian.
+Mataka would have liked to put his oxen to use, but Abraham could not
+help him with that. He is a smith, or rather a nothing, for unless he
+could smelt iron he would be entirely without materials to work with.
+
+_14th-28th July, 1866._--One day, calling at Mataka's, I found as
+usual a large crowd of idlers, who always respond with a laugh to
+everything he utters as wit. He asked, if he went to Bombay what ought
+he to take to secure some gold? I replied, "Ivory," he rejoined,
+"Would slaves not be a good speculation?" I replied that, "if he took
+slaves there for sale, they would put him in prison." The idea of the
+great Mataka in "chokee" made him wince, and the laugh turned for once
+against him. He said that as all the people from the coast crowd to
+him, they ought to give him something handsome for being here to
+supply their wants. I replied, if he would fill the fine well-watered
+country we had passed over with people instead of sending them off to
+Kilwa, he would confer a benefit on visitors, but we had been starved
+on the way to him; and I then told him what the English would do in
+road-making in a fine country like this. This led us to talk of
+railways, ships, ploughing with oxen--the last idea struck him most. I
+told him that I should have liked some of the Nassick boys to remain
+and teach this and other things, but they might be afraid to venture
+lest they should be sold again. The men who listened never heard such
+decided protests against selling each other into slavery before!
+
+The idea of guilt probably floated but vaguely in their minds, but
+the loss of life we have witnessed (in the guilt of which the sellers
+as well as the buyers participate) comes home very forcibly to their
+minds.
+
+Mataka has been an active hand in slave wars himself, though now he
+wishes to settle down in quiet. The Waiyau generally are still the
+most active agents the slave-traders have. The caravan leaders from
+Kilwa arrive at a Waiyau village, show the goods they have brought,
+are treated liberally by the elders, and told to wait and enjoy
+themselves, slaves enough to purchase all will be procured: then a
+foray is made against the Manganja, who have few or no guns. The
+Waiyau who come against them are abundantly supplied with both by
+their coast guests. Several of the low coast Arabs, who differ in
+nothing from the Waiyau, usually accompany the foray, and do business
+on their own account: this is the usual way in which a safari is
+furnished with slaves.
+
+Makanjela, a Waiyau chief about a third of the way from Mtend�'s to
+Mataka, has lost the friendship of all his neighbours by kidnapping
+and selling their people; if any of Mataka's people are found in the
+district between Makanjela and Moemb�, they are considered fair game
+and sold. Makanjela's people cannot piss Mataka to go to the Manganja,
+so they do what they can by kidnapping and plundering all who fall
+into their hands.
+
+When I employed two of Mataka's people to go back on the 14th with
+food to the havildar and sepoys, they went a little way and relieved
+some, but would not venture as far as the Luatiz�, for fear of losing
+their liberty by Makanjela's people. I could not get the people of the
+country to go back; nor could I ask the Nassick boys, who had been
+threatened by the sepoys with assassination,--and it was the same with
+the Johanna men, because, though Mahometans, the sepoys had called
+them Caffirs, &c., and they all declared, "We are ready to do
+anything for you, but we will do nothing for these Hindis." I sent
+back a sepoy, giving him provisions; he sat down in the first village,
+ate all the food, and returned.
+
+An immense tract of country lies uninhabited. To the north-east of
+Moemb� we have at least fifty miles of as fine land as can be seen
+anywhere, still bearing all the marks of having once supported a
+prodigious iron-smelting and grain-growing population. The clay pipes
+which are put on the nozzles of their bellows and inserted into the
+furnace are met with everywhere--often vitrified. Then the ridges on
+which they planted maize, beans, cassava, and sorghum, and which they
+find necessary to drain off the too abundant moisture of the rains,
+still remain unlevelled to attest the industry of the former
+inhabitants; the soil being clayey, resists for a long time the
+influence of the weather. These ridges are very regular, for in
+crossing the old fields, as the path often compels us to do, one foot
+treads regularly on the ridge, and the other in the hollow, for a
+considerable distance. Pieces of broken pots, with their rims
+ornamented with very good imitations of basket-work, attest that the
+lady potters of old followed the example given them by their still
+more ancient mothers,--their designs are rude, but better than we can
+make them without referring to the original.
+
+[Illustration: Imitation of basket-work in Pottery.]
+
+No want of water has here acted to drive the people away, as has been
+the case further south. It is a perpetual succession of ridge and
+valley, with a running stream or oozing bog, where ridge is separated
+from ridge: the ridges become steeper and narrower as we approach
+Mataka's.
+
+I counted fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards wide in one
+day's march of about six hours; being in a hilly or rather mountainous
+region, they flow rapidly and have plenty of water-power. In July any
+mere torrent ceases to flow, but these were brawling burns with water
+too cold (61�) for us to bathe in whose pores were all open by the
+relaxing regions nearer the coast. The sound, so un-African, of
+gushing water dashing over rocks was quite familiar to our ears.
+
+This district, which rises up west of Mataka's to 3400 feet above the
+sea, catches a great deal of the moisture brought up by the easterly
+winds. Many of the trees are covered with lichens. While here we had
+cold southerly breezes, and a sky so overcast every day after 10 A.M.,
+that we could take no astronomical observations: even the latitude was
+too poor to be much depended on. 12� 53' S. may have been a few miles
+from this.
+
+The cattle, rather a small breed, black and white in patches, and
+brown, with humps, give milk which is duly prized by these Waiyau. The
+sheep are the large-tailed variety, and generally of a black colour.
+Fowls and pigeons are the only other domestic animals we see, if we
+except the wretched village dogs which our-poodle had immense delight
+in chasing.
+
+The Waiyau are far from a handsome race, but they are not the
+prognathous beings one sees on the West Coast either. Their heads are
+of a round shape; compact foreheads, but not particularly receding;
+the alae nasi are flattened out; lips full, and with the women a small
+lip-ring just turns them up to give additional thickness. Their style
+of beauty is exactly that which was in fashion when the stone deities
+were made in the caves of Elephanta and Kenora near Bombay. �
+favourite mode of dressing the hair into little knobs, which was in
+fashion there, is more common in some tribes than in this. The mouths
+of the women would not be so hideous with a small lip-ring if they did
+not file their teeth to points, but they seem strong and able for the
+work which falls to their lot. The men are large, strong-boned
+fellows, and capable of enduring great fatigue, they undergo a rite
+which once distinguished the Jews about the age of puberty, and take a
+new name on the occasion; this was not introduced by the Arabs, whose
+advent is a recent event, and they speak of the time before they were
+inundated with European manufactures in exchange for slaves, as quite
+within their memory.
+
+Young Mataka gave me a dish of peas, and usually brought something
+every time he made a visit, he seems a nice boy, and his father, in
+speaking of learning to read, said he and his companions could learn,
+but he himself was too old. The soil seems very fertile, for the sweet
+potatoes become very large, and we bought two loads of them for three
+cubits and two needles; they quite exceeded 1 cwt. The maize becomes
+very large too; one cob had 1600 seeds. The abundance of water, the
+richness of soil, the available labour for building square houses, the
+coolness of the climate, make this nearly as desirable a residence as
+Magomero; but, alas! instead of three weeks' easy sail up the Zambesi
+and Shir�, we have spent four weary months in getting here: I shall
+never cease bitterly to lament the abandonment of the Magomero
+mission.
+
+Moaning seems a favourite way of spending the time with some sick
+folk. For the sake of the warmth, I allowed a Nassick boy to sleep in
+my house; he and I had the same complaint, dysentery, and I was
+certainly worse than he, but did not moan, while he played at it as
+often as he was awake. I told him that people moaned only when too ill
+to be sensible of what they were doing; the groaning ceased, though
+he became worse.
+
+Three sepoys played at groaning very vigorously outside my door; they
+had nothing the matter with them, except perhaps fatigue, which we all
+felt alike; as these fellows prevented my sleeping, I told them quite
+civilly that, if so ill that they required to groan, they had better
+move off a little way, as I could not sleep; they preferred the
+verandah, and at once forbore.
+
+The abundance of grain and other food is accompanied by great numbers
+of rats or large mice, which play all manner of pranks by night; white
+ants have always to be guarded against likewise. Anyone who would find
+an antidote to drive them away would confer a blessing; the natural
+check is the driver ant, which when it visits a house is a great pest
+for a time, but it clears the others out.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[12] There is a double purpose in these murders; the terror inspired
+in the minds of the survivors spurs them on to endure the hardships of
+the march: the Portuese drivers are quite alive to the merits of this
+stimulus.--ED.
+
+[13] A tribal distinction turns on the customs prevailing with respect
+to animal food, _e.g._ one tribe will eat the elephant, the next looks
+on such flesh as unclean, and so with other meat. The neighbouring
+Manganja gladly eat the leopard and hyaena.--ED.
+
+[14] A coloured cloth manufactured expressly for barter in East
+Africa.
+
+[15] This is pronounced "Y-yow."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The
+    Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the
+    Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja
+    or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage
+    across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake
+    shore. Blue ink. Chitan� changes colour. The Nsaka fish.
+    Makalaos� drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities.
+    Lake rivers. Mukat�'s. Lake Pamalomb�. Mponda's. A slave gang.
+    Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains.
+
+_28th July, 1866._--We proposed to start to-day, but Mataka said that
+he was not ready yet: the flour had to be ground, and he had given us
+no meat. He had sent plenty of cooked food almost every day. He asked
+if we would slaughter the ox he would give here, or take it on; we
+preferred to kill it at once. He came on the 28th with a good lot of
+flour for us, and men to guide us to Nyassa, telling us that this was
+Moemb�, and his district extended all the way to the Lake: he would
+not send us to Los�wa, as that place had lately been plundered and
+burned.
+
+In general the chiefs have shown an anxiety to promote our safety. The
+country is a mass of mountains. On leaving Mataka's we ascended
+considerably, and about the end of the first day's march, near
+Magola's village, the barometer showed our greatest altitude, about
+3400 feet above the sea. There were villages of these mountaineers
+everywhere, for the most part of 100 houses or more each. The springs
+were made the most use of that they knew; the damp spots drained, and
+the water given a free channel for use in irrigation further down:
+most of these springs showed the presence of iron by the oxide oozing
+out. A great many patches of peas are seen in full bearing and flower.
+The trees are small, except in the hollows: there is plenty of grass
+and flowers near streams and on the heights. The mountain-tops may
+rise 2000 or 3000 feet above their flanks, along which we wind, going
+perpetually up and down the steep ridges of which the country is but a
+succession.
+
+Looking at the geology of the district, the plateaux on each side of
+the Rovuma are masses of grey sandstone, capped with masses of
+ferruginous conglomerate; apparently an aqueous deposit. When we
+ascend the Rovuma about sixty miles, a great many pieces and blocks of
+silicified wood appear on the surface of the soil at the bottom of the
+slope up the plateaux. This in Africa is a sure indication of the
+presence of coal beneath, but it was not observed cropping out; the
+plateaux are cut up in various directions by wadys well supplied with
+grass and trees on deep and somewhat sandy soil: but at the confluence
+of the Loendi highlands they appear in the far distance. In the sands
+of the Loendi pieces of coal are quite common.[16]
+
+Before reaching the confluence of the Rovuma and Loendi, or say about
+ninety miles from the sea, the plateau is succeeded by a more level
+country, having detached granitic masses shooting up some 500 or 700
+feet. The sandstone of the plateau has at first been hardened, then
+quite metamorphosed into a chocolate-coloured schist. As at Chilol�
+hill, we have igneous rocks, apparently trap, capped with masses of
+beautiful white dolomite. We still ascend in altitude as we go
+westwards, and come upon long tracts of gneiss with hornblende. The
+gneiss is often striated, all the striae looking one way--sometimes
+north and south, and at other times east and west. These rocks look as
+if a stratified rock had been nearly melted, and the strata fused
+together by the heat. From these striated rocks have shot up great
+rounded masses of granite or syenite, whose smooth sides and crowns
+contain scarcely any trees, and are probably from 3000 to 4000 feet
+above the sea. The elevated plains among these mountain masses show
+great patches of ferruginous conglomerate, which, when broken, look
+like yellow haematite with madrepore holes in it: this has made the
+soil of a red colour.
+
+On the watershed we have still the rounded granitic hills jutting
+above the plains (if such they may be called) which are all ups and
+downs, and furrowed with innumerable running rills, the sources of the
+Rovuma and Loendi. The highest rock observed with mica schist was at
+an altitude of 3440 feet. The same uneven country prevails as we
+proceed from the watershed about forty miles down to the Lake, and a
+great deal of quartz in small fragments renders travelling-very
+difficult. Near the Lake, and along its eastern shore, we have mica
+schist and gneiss foliated, with a great deal of hornblende; but the
+most remarkable feature of it is that the rocks are all tilted on
+edge, or slightly inclined to the Lake. The active agent in effecting
+this is not visible. It looks as if a sudden rent had been made, so as
+to form the Lake, and tilt all these rocks nearly over. On the east
+side of the lower part of the Lake we have two ranges of mountains,
+evidently granitic: the nearer one covered with small trees and lower
+than the other; the other jagged and bare, or of the granitic forms.
+But in all this country no fossil-yielding rock was visible except the
+grey sandstone referred to at the beginning of this note. The rocks
+are chiefly the old crystalline forms.
+
+One fine straight tall tree in the hollows seemed a species of fig:
+its fruit was just forming, but it was too high for me to ascertain
+its species. The natives don't eat the fruit, but they eat the large
+grubs which come out of it. The leaves were fifteen inches long by
+five broad: they call it Unguengo.
+
+_29th July, 1866._--At Magola's village. Although we are now rid of
+the sepoys, we cannot yet congratulate ourselves on being rid of the
+lazy habits of lying down in the path which they introduced. A strong
+scud comes up from the south bringing much moisture with it: it blows
+so hard above, this may be a storm on the coast. Temperature in
+mornings 55�.
+
+_30th July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Pezimba's village,
+which consists of 200 houses and huts. It is placed very nicely on a
+knoll between two burns, which, as usual, are made use of for
+irrigating peas in winter time. The headman said that if we left now
+we had a good piece of jungle before us, and would sleep twice in it
+before reaching Mbanga. We therefore remained. An Arab party, hearing
+of our approach, took a circuitous route among the mountains to avoid
+coming in contact with us. In travelling to Pezimba's we had commenced
+our western descent to the Lake, for we were now lower than Magola's
+by 300 feet. We crossed many rivulets and the Lochesi, a good-sized
+stream. The watershed parts some streams for Loendi and some for
+Rovuma. There is now a decided scantiness of trees. Many of the
+hill-tops are covered with grass or another plant; there is pleasure
+now in seeing them bare. Ferns, rhododendrons, and a foliaged tree,
+which looks in the distance like silver-fir, are met with.
+
+The Mandar� root is here called Nyumbo, when cooked it has a slight
+degree of bitterness with it which cultivation may remove. Mica schist
+crowned some of the heights on the watershed, then gneiss, and now, as
+we descend further, we have igneous rocks of more recent eruption,
+porphyry and gneiss, with hornblende. A good deal of ferruginous
+conglomerate, with holes in it, covers many spots; when broken, it
+looks like yellow haematite, with black linings to the holes: this is
+probably the ore used in former times by the smiths, of whose
+existence we now find still more evidence than further east.
+
+_31st July, 1866._--I had presented Pezimba with a cloth, so he cooked
+for us handsomely last night, and this morning desired us to wait a
+little as he had not yet sufficient meal made to present: we waited
+and got a generous present.
+
+It was decidedly milder here than at Mataka's, and we had a clear sky.
+In our morning's march we passed the last of the population, and went
+on through a fine well-watered fruitful country, to sleep near a
+mountain called Mt�wir�, by a stream called Msapo. A very large Arab
+slave-party was close by our encampment, and I wished to speak to
+them; but as soon as they knew of our being near they set off in a
+pathless course across country, and were six days in the
+wilderness.[17]
+
+_1st August, 1866._--We saw the encampment of another Arab party. It
+consisted of ten pens, each of which, from the number of fires it
+contained, may have held from eighty to a hundred slaves. The people
+of the country magnified the numbers, saying that they would reach
+from this to Mataka's; but from all I can learn, I think that from 300
+to 800 slaves is the commoner gang. This second party went across
+country very early this morning. We saw the fire-sticks which the
+slaves had borne with them. The fear they feel is altogether the
+effect of the English name, for we have done nothing to cause their
+alarm.
+
+_2nd August, 1866._--There was something very cheering to me in the
+sight at our encampment of yellow grass and trees dotted over it, as
+in the Bechuana country. The birds were singing merrily too, inspired
+by the cold, which was 47�, and by the vicinity of some population.
+Gum-copal trees and bushes grow here as well as all over the country;
+but gum is never dug for, probably because the trees were never large
+enough to yield the fossil gum. Marks of smiths are very abundant and
+some furnaces are still standing. Much cultivation must formerly have
+been where now all is jungle.
+
+We arrived at Mbanga, a village embowered in trees, chiefly of the
+euphorbia, so common in the Manganja country further south. Kandulo,
+the headman, had gone to drink beer at another village, but sent
+orders to give a hut and to cook for us. We remained next day. Took
+lunars.
+
+We had now passed through, at the narrowest part, the hundred miles of
+depopulated country, of which about seventy are on the N.E. of Mataka.
+The native accounts differ as to the cause. Some say slave wars, and
+assert that the Makoa from the vicinity of Mozambique played an
+important part in them; others say famine; others that the people have
+moved to and beyond Nyassa.[18] Certain it is, from the potsherds
+strewed over the country, and the still remaining ridges on which
+beans, sorghum, maize, and cassava, were planted, that the departed
+population was prodigious. The Waiyau, who are now in the country,
+came from the other side of the Rovuma, and they probably supplanted
+the Manganja, an operation which we see going on at the present day.
+
+_4th August, 1866._--An hour and a half brought us to Miul�, a village
+on the same level with Mbanga; and the chief pressing us to stay, on
+the plea of our sleeping two nights in the jungle, instead of one if
+we left early next morning, we consented. I asked him what had become
+of the very large iron-smelting population of this region; he said
+many had died of famine, others had fled to the west of Nyassa: the
+famine is the usual effect of slave wars, and much death is thereby
+caused--probably much more than by the journey to the coast. He had
+never heard any tradition of stone hatchets having been used, nor of
+stone spear-heads or arrowheads of that material, nor had he heard of
+any being turned up by the women in hoeing. The Makond�, as we saw,
+use wooden spears where iron is scarce. I saw wooden hoes used for
+tilling the soil in the Bechuana and Bataka countries, but never stone
+ones. In 1841 I saw a Bushwoman in the Cape Colony with a round stone
+and a hole through it; on being asked she showed me how it was used by
+inserting the top of a digging-stick into it, and digging a root. The
+stone was to give the stick weight.
+
+[Illustration.]
+
+The stones still used as anvils and sledge-hammers by many of the
+African smiths, when considered from their point of view, show sounder
+sense than if they were burdened with the great weights we use. They
+are unacquainted with the process of case-hardening, which, applied to
+certain parts of our anvils, gives them their usefulness, and an anvil
+of their soft iron would not do so well as a hard stone. It is true a
+small light one might be made, but let any one see how the hammers of
+their iron bevel over and round in the faces with a little work, and
+he will perceive that only a wild freak would induce any sensible
+native smith to make a mass equal to a sledge-hammer, and burden
+himself with a weight for what can be better performed by a stone. If
+people are settled, as on the coast, then they gladly use any mass of
+cast iron they may find, but never where, as in the interior, they
+have no certainty of remaining any length of time in one spot.
+
+_5th August, 1866._--We left Miul�, and commenced our march towards
+Lake Nyassa, and slept at the last of the streams that flow to the
+Loendi. In Mataka's vicinity, N.E., there is a perfect brush of
+streams flowing to that river: one forms a lake in its course, and the
+sources of the Rovuma lie in the same region. After leaving Mataka's
+we crossed a good-sized one flowing to Loendi, and, the day after
+leaving Pezimba's, another going to the Chiringa or Lochiringa, which
+is a tributary of the Rovuma.
+
+_6th August, 1866._--We passed two cairns this morning at the
+beginning of the very sensible descent to the Lake. They are very
+common in all this Southern Africa in the passes of the mountains, and
+are meant to mark divisions of countries, perhaps burial-places, but
+the Waiyau who accompanied us thought that they were merely heaps of
+stone collected by some one making a garden. The cairns were placed
+just about the spot where the blue waters of Nyassa first came fairly
+into view.
+
+We now came upon a stream, the Misinj�, flowing into the Lake, and we
+crossed it five times; it was about twenty yards wide, and thigh deep.
+We made but short stages when we got on the lower plateau, for the
+people had great abundance of food, and gave large presents of it if
+we rested. One man gave four fowls, three large baskets of maize,
+pumpkins, eland's fat--a fine male, as seen by his horns,--and pressed
+us to stay, that he might see our curiosities as well as others. He
+said that at one day's distance south of him all sorts of animals, as
+buffaloes, elands, elephants, hippopotami, and antelopes, could be
+shot.
+
+_8th August, 1866._--We came to the Lake at the confluence of the
+Misinj�, and felt grateful to That Hand which had protected us thus
+far on our journey. It was as if I had come back to an old home I
+never expected again to see; and pleasant to bathe in the delicious
+waters again, hear the roar of the sea, and dash in the rollers. Temp.
+71� at 8 A.M., while the air was 65�. I feel quite exhilarated.
+
+The headman here, Mokalaos�, is a real Manganja, and he and all his
+people exhibit the greater darkness of colour consequent on being in a
+warm moist climate; he is very friendly, and presented millet,
+porridge, cassava, and hippopotamus meat boiled and asked if I liked
+milk, as he had some of Mataka's cattle here. His people bring sanjika
+the best Lake fish, for sale; they are dried on stages over slow
+fires, and lose their fine flavour by it, but they are much prized
+inland. I bought fifty for a fathom of calico; when fresh, they taste
+exactly like the best herrings, _i.e._ as we think, but voyagers' and
+travellers' appetites are often so whetted as to be incapable of
+giving a true verdict in matters of taste.
+
+[It is necessary to explain that Livingstone knew of an Arab
+settlement on the western shore of the Lake, and that he hoped to
+induce the chief man Jumb� to give him a passage to the other side.]
+
+_10th August, 1866._--I sent Seyed Majid's letter up to Jumb�, but the
+messenger met some coast Arabs at the Loangwa, which may be seven
+miles from this, and they came back with him, haggling a deal about
+the fare, and then went off, saying that they would bring the dhow
+here for us. Finding that they did not come, I sent Musa, who brought
+back word that they had taken the dhow away over to Jumb� at Kotakota,
+or, as they pronounce it, Ngotagota. Very few of the coast Arabs can
+read; in words they are very polite, but truthfulness seems very
+little regarded. I am resting myself and people--working up journal,
+lunars, and altitudes--but will either move south or go to the Arabs
+towards the north soon.
+
+Mokalaos�'s fears of the Waiyau will make him welcome Jumb� here, and
+then the Arab will some day have an opportunity of scattering his
+people as he has done those at Kotakota. He has made Los�wa too hot
+for himself. When the people there were carried off by Mataka's
+people, Jumb� seized their stores of grain, and now has no post to
+which he can go there. The Loangwa Arabs give an awful account of
+Jumb�'s murders and selling the people, but one cannot take it all in;
+at the mildest it must have been bad. This is all they ever do; they
+cannot form a state or independent kingdom: slavery and the
+slave-trade are insuperable obstacles to any permanence inland; slaves
+can escape so easily, all therefore that the Arabs do is to collect as
+much money as they can by hook and by crook, and then leave the
+country.
+
+We notice a bird called namtambw�, which sings very nicely with a
+strong voice after dark here at the Misinj� confluence.
+
+_11th August, 1866._--Two headmen came down country from villages
+where we slept, bringing us food, and asking how we are treated; they
+advise our going south to Mukat�'s, where the Lake is narrow.
+
+_12th-14th August, 1866._--Map making; but my energies were sorely
+taxed by the lazy sepoys, and I was usually quite tired out at night.
+Some men have come down from Mataka's, and report the arrival of an
+Englishman with cattle for me, "he has two eyes behind as well as two
+in front:" this is enough of news for awhile!
+
+Mokalaos� has his little afflictions, and he tells me of them. A wife
+ran away, I asked how many he had; he told me twenty in all: I then
+thought he had nineteen too many. He answered with the usual reason,
+"But who would cook for strangers if I had but one?"
+
+We saw clouds of "kungu" gnats on the Lake; they are not eaten here.
+An ungenerous traveller coming here with my statement in his hand,
+and finding the people denying all knowledge of how to catch and cook
+them, might say that I had been romancing in saying I had seen them
+made into cakes in the northern part of the Lake; when asking here
+about them, a stranger said, "They know how to use them in the north;
+we do not."
+
+Mokalaos� thinks that the Arabs are afraid that I may take their dhows
+from them and go up to the north. He and the other headmen think that
+the best way will be to go to Mukat�'s in the south. All the Arabs
+flee from me, the English name being in their minds inseparably
+connected with recapturing slavers: they cannot conceive that I have
+any other object in view; they cannot read Seyed Majid's letter.
+
+_21st August, 1866._--Started for the Loangwa, on the east side of the
+Lake; hilly all the way, about seven miles. This river may be twenty
+yards wide near its confluence; the Misinj� is double that: each has
+accumulated a promontory of deposit and enters the Lake near its apex.
+We got a house from a Waiyau man on a bank about forty feet above the
+level of Nyassa, but I could not sleep for the manoeuvres of a crowd
+of the minute ants which infested it. They chirrup distinctly; they
+would not allow the men to sleep either, though all were pretty tired
+by the rough road up.
+
+_22nd August, 1866._--We removed to the south side of the Loangwa,
+where there are none of these little pests.
+
+_23rd August, 1866._--Proposed to the Waiyau headman to send a canoe
+over to call Jumb�, as I did not believe in the assertions of the
+half-caste Arab here that he had sent for his. All the Waiyau had
+helped me, and why not he? He was pleased with this, but advised
+waiting till a man sent to Los�wa should return.
+
+_24th August, 1866._--A leopard took a dog out of a house next to
+ours; he had bitten a man before, but not mortally. _29th August,
+1866._--News come that the two dhows have come over to Los�wa
+(Los�fa). The Mazitu had chased Jumb� up the hills: had they said, on
+to an island, I might have believed them.
+
+_30th August,1866._--The fear which the English have inspired in the
+Arab slave-traders is rather inconvenient. All flee from me as if I
+had the plague, and I cannot in consequence transmit letters to the
+coast, or get across the Lake. They seem to think that if I get into a
+dhow I will be sure to burn it. As the two dhows on the Lake are used
+for nothing else but the slave-trade, their owners have no hope of my
+allowing them to escape, so after we have listened to various lies as
+excuses, we resolve to go southwards, and cross at the point of
+departure of the Shir� from the Lake. I took lunars several times on
+both sides of the moon, and have written a despatch for Lord
+Clarendon, besides a number of private letters.
+
+_3rd September, 1866._--Went down to confluence of the Misinj� and
+came to many of the eatable insect "kungu,"--they are caught by a
+quick motion of the hand holding a basket. We got a cake of these same
+insects further down; they make a buzz like a swarm of bees, and are
+probably the perfect state of some Lake insect.
+
+I observed two beaches of the Lake: one about fifteen feet above the
+present high-water mark, and the other about forty above that; but
+between the two the process of disintegration, which results from the
+sudden cold and heat in these regions, has gone on so much that seldom
+is a well-rounded smoothed one seen; the lower beach is very well
+marked.
+
+The strike of large masses of foliated gneiss is parallel with the
+major axis of the Lake, and all are tilted on edge. Some are a little
+inclined to the Lake, as if dipping to it westwards, but others are as
+much inclined the opposite way, or twisted.
+
+I made very good blue ink from the juice of a berry, the fruit of a
+creeper, which is the colour of port wine when expressed. A little
+ferri carb. ammon., added to this is all that is required.
+
+The poodle dog Chitan� is rapidly changing the colour of its hair. All
+the parts corresponding to the ribs and neck are rapidly becoming red;
+the majority of country dogs are of this colour.
+
+The Manganja, or Wa-nyassa, are an aboriginal race; they have great
+masses of hair, and but little, if any, of the prognathous in the
+profile. Their bodies and limbs are very well made, and the
+countenance of the men is often very pleasant. The women are very
+plain and lumpy, but exceedingly industrious in their gardens from
+early morning till about 11 A.M., then from 3 P.M. till dark, or
+pounding corn and grinding it: the men make twine or nets by day, and
+are at their fisheries in the evenings and nights. They build the
+huts, the women plaster them.
+
+A black fish, the Nsaka, makes a hole, with raised edges, which, with
+the depth from which they are taken, is from fifteen to eighteen
+inches, and from two to three feet broad. It is called by the natives
+their house. The pair live in it for some time, or until the female
+becomes large for spawning; this operation over, the house is left.
+
+I gave Mokalaos� some pumpkin seed and peas. He took me into his
+house, and presented a quantity of beer. I drank a little, and seeing
+me desist from taking more, he asked if I wished a servant-girl to
+"_pata mimba_." Not knowing what was meant, I offered the girl the
+calabash of beer, and told her to drink, but this was not the
+intention. He asked if I did not wish more; and then took the vessel,
+and as he drank the girl performed the operation on himself. Placing
+herself in front, she put both hands round his waist below the short
+ribs, and pressing gradually drew them round to his belly in front.
+He took several prolonged draughts, and at each she repeated the
+operation, as if to make the liquor go equally over the stomach. Our
+topers don't seem to have discovered the need for this.
+
+_5th September, 1866._--Our march is along the shore to Ngombo
+promontory, which approaches so near to Senga or Tsenga opposite, as
+to narrow the Lake to some sixteen or eighteen miles. It is a low
+sandy point, the edge fringed on the north-west and part of the south
+with a belt of papyrus and reeds; the central parts wooded. Part of
+the south side has high sandy dunes, blown up by the south wind, which
+strikes it at right angles there. One was blowing as we marched along
+the southern side eastwards, and was very tiresome. We reached
+Panthunda's village by a brook called Lilol�. Another we crossed
+before coming to it is named Libesa: these brooks form the favourite
+spawning grounds of the sanjika and mpasa, two of the best fishes of
+the Lake. The sanjika is very like our herring in shape and taste and
+size; the mpasa larger every way: both live on green herbage formed at
+the bottom of the Lake and rivers.
+
+_7th September, 1866._--Chirumba's village being on the south side of
+a long lagoon, we preferred sleeping on the mainland, though they
+offered their cranky canoes to ferry us over. This lagoon is called
+Pansangwa.
+
+_8th September, 1866._--In coming along the southern side of Ngombo
+promontory we look eastwards, but when we leave it we turn southwards,
+having a double range of lofty mountains on our left. These are
+granitic in form, the nearer range being generally the lowest, and
+covered with scraggy trees; the second, or more easterly, is some 6000
+feet above the sea, bare and rugged, with jagged peaks shooting high
+into the air. This is probably the newest range. The oldest people
+have felt no earthquake, but some say that they have heard of such
+things from their elders.
+
+We passed very many sites of old villages, which are easily known by
+the tree euphorbia planted round an umbelliferous one, and the sacred
+fig. One species here throws out strong buttresses in the manner of
+some mangroves instead of sending down twiners which take root, as is
+usually the ease with the tropical fig. These, with millstones--stones
+for holding the pots in cooking--and upraised clay benches, which have
+been turned into brick by fire in the destruction of the huts, show
+what were once the "pleasant haunts of men." No stone implements ever
+appear. If they existed they could not escape notice, since the eyes
+in walking are almost always directed to the ground to avoid stumbling
+on stones or stumps. In some parts of the world stone implements are
+so common they seem to have been often made and discarded as soon as
+formed, possibly by getting better tools; if, indeed, the manufacture
+is not as modern as that found by Mr. Waller. Passing some navvies in
+the City who were digging for the foundation of a house, he observed a
+very antique-looking vase, wet from the clay, standing on the bank. He
+gave ten shillings for it, and subsequently, by the aid of a scrubbing
+brush and some water, detected the hieroglyphics "Copeland late Spode"
+on the bottom of it!
+
+Here the destruction is quite recent, and has been brought about by
+some who entertained us very hospitably on the Misinj�, before we came
+to the confluence. The woman chief, Ulenjelenj�, or Njelenj�, bore a
+part in it for the supply of Arab caravans. It was the work of the
+Masininga, a Waiyau tribe, of which her people form a part. They
+almost depopulated the broad fertile tract, of some three or four
+miles, between the mountain range and the Lake, along which our course
+lay. It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones scattered about
+everywhere; one would fain not notice them, but they are so striking
+as one trudges along the sultry path, that it cannot be avoided.
+
+_9th September, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Kandango's village. The men
+killed a hippopotamus when it was sleeping on the shore; a full-grown
+female, 10 feet 9 inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail,
+and 4 feet 4 inches high at the withers. The bottom here and all along
+southwards now is muddy. Many of the _Siluris Glanis_ are caught equal
+in length to an eleven or a twelve-pound salmon, but a great portion
+is head; slowly roasted on a stick stuck in the ground before the fire
+they seemed to me much more savoury than I ever tasted them before.
+With the mud we have many shells: north of Ngombo scarcely one can be
+seen, and there it is sandy or rocky.
+
+_10th September, 1866._--In marching southwards we came close to the
+range (the Lake lies immediately on the other side of it), but we
+could not note the bays which it forms; we crossed two mountain
+torrents from sixty to eighty yards broad, and now only ankle deep. In
+flood these bring down enormous trees, which are much battered and
+bruised among the rocks in their course; they spread over the plain,
+too, and would render travelling here in the rains impracticable.
+After spending the night at a very civil headman's chefu, we crossed
+the Lotend�, another of these torrents: each very lofty mass in the
+range seemed to give rise to one. Nothing of interest occurred as we
+trudged along. A very poor headman, Pamawawa, presented a roll of salt
+instead of food: this was grateful to us, as we have been without that
+luxury some time.
+
+_12th September, 1866._--We crossed the rivulet Nguena, and then went
+on to another with a large village by it, it is called Pantoza
+Pangone. The headman had been suffering from sore eyes for four
+months, and pressed me to stop and give him medicine, which I did.
+
+_13th September, 1866._--We crossed a strong brook called Nkor�. My
+object in mentioning the brooks which were flowing at this time, and
+near the end of the dry season, is to give an idea of the sources of
+supply of evaporation. The men enumerate the following, north of the
+Misinj�. Those which are greater are marked thus +, and the lesser
+ones -.
+
+     1. Misinj� + has canoes.
+     2. Loangwa -
+     3. Les�fa -
+     4. Lelula -
+     5. Nchamanj� -
+     6. Musumba +
+     7. Fubw� +
+     8. Chia -
+     9. Kisanga +
+    10. Bweka -
+    11. Chifumero + has canoes.
+    12. Loangwa -
+    13. Mkoho -
+    14. Mangwelo - at N. end of Lake.
+
+Including the above there are twenty or twenty-four perennial brooks
+and torrents which give a good supply of water in the dry season; in
+the wet season they are supplemented by a number of burns, which,
+though flowing now, have their mouths blocked up with bars of sand,
+and yield nothing except by percolation; the Lake rises at least four
+feet perpendicularly in the wet season, and has enough during the year
+from these perennial brooks to supply the Shir�'s continual flow.
+
+[It will be remembered that the beautiful river Shir� carries off the
+waters of Lake Nyassa and joins the Zambesi near Mount Morambala,
+about ninety miles from the sea. It is by this water-way that
+Livingstone always hoped to find an easy access to Central Africa.
+The only obstacles that exist are, first, the foolish policy of the
+Portuguese with regard to Customs' duties at the mouth of the Zambesi;
+and secondly, a succession of cataracts on the Shir�, which impede
+navigation for seventy miles. The first hindrance may give way under
+more liberal views than those which prevail at present at the Court of
+Lisbon, and then the remaining difficulty--accepted as a fact--will be
+solved by the establishment of a boat service both above and below the
+cataracts. Had Livingstone survived he would have been cheered by
+hearing that already several schemes are afoot to plant Missions in
+the vicinity of Lake Nyassa, and we may with confidence look to the
+revival of the very enterprise which he presently so bitterly deplores
+as a thing of the past, for Bishop Steere has fully determined to
+re-occupy the district in which fell his predecessor, Bishop
+Mackenzie, and others attached to the Universities Mission.]
+
+In the course of this day's march we were pushed close to the Lake by
+Mount Gom�, and, being now within three miles of the end of the Lake,
+we could see the whole plainly. There we first saw the Shir� emerge,
+and there also we first gazed on the broad waters of Nyassa.
+
+Many hopes have been disappointed here. Far down on the right bank of
+the Zambesi lies the dust of her whose death changed all my future
+prospects; and now, instead of a check being given to the slave-trade
+by lawful commerce on the Lake, slave-dhows prosper!
+
+An Arab slave-party fled on hearing of us yesterday. It is impossible
+not to regret the loss of good Bishop Mackenzie, who sleeps far down
+the Shir�, and with him all hope of the Gospel being introduced into
+Central Africa. The silly abandonment of all the advantages of the
+Shir� route by the Bishop's successor I shall ever bitterly deplore,
+but all will come right some day, though I may not live to
+participate in the joy, or even see the commencement of better times.
+
+In the evening we reached the village of Cherekalongwa on the brook
+Pamchololo, and were very jovially received by the headman with beer.
+He says that Mukat�,[19] Kabinga, and Mponda alone supply the
+slave-traders now by raids on the Manganja, but they go S.W. to the
+Maravi, who, impoverished by a Mazitu raid, sell each other as well.
+
+_14th, September, 1866._--At Cherekalongwa's (who has a skin disease,
+believed by him to have been derived from eating fresh-water turtles),
+we were requested to remain one day in order that he might see us. He
+had heard much about us; had been down the Shir�, and as far as
+Mosambique, but never had an Englishman in his town before. As the
+heat is great we were glad of the rest and beer, with which he very
+freely supplied us.
+
+I saw the skin of a Phenembe, a species of lizard which devours
+chickens; here it is named Salka. It had been flayed by a cut up the
+back--body, 12 inches; across belly, 10 inches.
+
+After nearly giving up the search for Dr. Roscher's point of reaching
+the Lake--because no one, either Arab or native, had the least idea of
+either Nusseewa or Makawa, the name given to the place--I discovered
+it in Less�fa, the accentuated _�_ being sounded as our _e_ in _set_.
+This word would puzzle a German philologist, as being the origin of
+Nussewa, but the Waiyau pronounce it Los�wa, the Arabs Luss�wa, and
+Roscher's servant transformed the _L_ and _�_ into _N_ and _ee_, hence
+Nusseewa. In confirmation of this rivulet Les�fa, which is opposite
+Kotakota, or, as the Arabs pronounce it, Nkotakota, the chief is
+Mangkaka (Makawa), or as there is a confusion of names as to chief it
+may be Mataka, whose town and district is called Moemb�, the town
+Pamoembe = Mamemba.
+
+I rest content with Kingomango so far verifying the place at which he
+arrived two months after we had discovered Lake Nyassa. He deserved
+all the credit due to finding the way thither, but he travelled as an
+Arab, and no one suspected him to be anything else. Our visits have
+been known far and wide, and great curiosity excited; but Dr. Roscher
+merits the praise only of preserving his _incognito_ at a distance
+from Kilwa: his is almost the only case known of successfully assuming
+the Arab guise--Burckhardt is the exception. When Mr. Palgrave came to
+Muscat, or a town in Oman where our political agent Col. Desborough
+was stationed, he was introduced to that functionary by an interpreter
+as Hajee Ali, &c. Col. Desborough replied, "You are no Hajee Ali, nor
+anything else but Gifford Palgrave, with whom I was schoolfellow at
+the Charter House." Col. Desborough said he knew him at once, from a
+peculiar way of holding his head, and Palgrave begged him not to
+disclose his real character to his interpreter, on whom, and some
+others, he had been imposing. I was told this by Mr. Dawes, a
+Lieutenant in the Indian navy, who accompanied Colonel Pelly in his
+visit to the Nejed, Riad, &c, and took observations for him.
+
+_Ta�gar�_ is the name of a rather handsome bean, which possesses
+intoxicating qualities. To extract these it is boiled, then peeled,
+and new water supplied: after a second and third boiling it is
+pounded, and the meal taken to the river and the water allowed to
+percolate through it several times. Twice cooking still leaves the
+intoxicating quality; but if eaten then it does not cause death: it is
+curious that the natives do not use it expressly to produce
+intoxication. When planted near a tree it grows all over it, and
+yields abundantly: the skin of the pod is velvety, like our broad
+beans.
+
+Another bean, with a pretty white mark on it, grows freely, and is
+easily cooked, and good: it is here called _Gwingwiza_.
+
+_15th September, 1866._--We were now a short distance south of the
+Lake, and might have gone west to Mosauka's (called by some Pasauka's)
+to cross the Shir� there, but I thought that my visit to Mukat�'s, a
+Waiyau chief still further south, might do good. He, Mponda, and
+Kabinga, are the only three chiefs who still carry on raids against
+the Manganja at the instigation of the coast Arabs, and they are now
+sending periodical marauding parties to the Maravi (here named Malola)
+to supply the Kilwa slave-traders. We marched three hours southwards,
+then up the hills of the range which flanks all the lower part of the
+Lake. The altitude of the town is about 800 feet above the Lake. The
+population near the chief is large, and all the heights as far as the
+eye can reach are crowned with villages. The second range lies a few
+miles off, and is covered with trees as well as the first, the nearest
+high mass is Ma�goch�. The people live amidst plenty. All the chiefs
+visited by the Arabs have good substantial square houses built for
+their accommodation. Mukat� never saw a European before, and
+everything about us is an immense curiosity to him and to his people.
+We had long visits from him. He tries to extract a laugh out of every
+remark. He is darker than the generality of Waiyau, with a full beard
+trained on the chin, as all the people hereabouts have--Arab fashion.
+The courts of his women cover a large space, our house being on one
+side of them. I tried to go out that way, but wandered, so the ladies
+sent a servant to conduct me out in the direction I wished to go, and
+we found egress by passing through some huts with two doors in them.
+
+_16th September, 1866._--At Mukat�'s. The Prayer Book does not give
+ignorant persons any idea of an unseen Being addressed, it looks more
+like reading or speaking to the book: kneeling and praying with eyes
+shut is better than, our usual way of holding Divine service.
+
+We had a long discussion about the slave-trade. The Arabs have told
+the chief that our object in capturing slavers is to get them into our
+own possession, and make them of our own religion. The evils which we
+have seen--the skulls, the ruined villages, the numbers who perish on
+the way to the coast and on the sea, the wholesale murders committed
+by the Waiyau to build up Arab villages elsewhere--these things Mukat�
+often tried to turn off with a laugh, but our remarks are safely
+lodged in many hearts. Next day, as we went along, our guide
+spontaneously delivered their substance to the different villages
+along our route. Before we reached him, a headman, in convoying me a
+mile or two, whispered to me, "Speak to Mukat� to give his forays up."
+
+It is but little we can do, but we lodge a protest in the heart
+against a vile system, and time may ripen it. Their great argument is,
+"What could we do without Arab cloth?" My answer is, "Do what you did
+before the Arabs came into the country." At the present rate of
+destruction of population, the whole country will soon be a desert.
+
+An earthquake happened here last year, that is about the end of it or
+beginning of this (the crater on the Grand. Comoro Island smoked for
+three months about that time); it shook all the houses and everything,
+but they observed no other effects.[20] No hot springs are known here.
+
+_17th September, 1866._--We marched down from Mukat�'s and to about
+the middle of the Lakelet Pamalomb�. Mukat� had no people with canoes
+near the usual crossing place, and he sent a messenger to see that we
+were fairly served. Here we got the Manganja headmen to confess that
+an earthquake had happened; all the others we have inquired of have
+denied it; why, I cannot conceive. The old men said that they had felt
+earthquakes twice, once near sunset and the next time at night--they
+shook everything, and were accompanied with noise, and all the fowls
+cackled; there was no effect on the Lake observed. They profess
+ignorance of any tradition of the water having stood higher. Their
+traditions say that they came originally from the west, or west
+north-west, which they call "Maravi;" and that their forefathers
+taught them to make nets and kill fish. They have no trace of any
+teaching by a higher instructor; no carvings or writings on the rocks;
+and they never heard of a book until we came among them. Their
+forefathers never told them that after or at death they went to God,
+but they had heard it said of such a one who died, "God took him."
+
+_18th September, 1866._--We embarked the whole party in eight canoes,
+and went up the Lake to the point of junction between it and the
+prolongation of Nyassa above it, called Massangano ("meetings"), which
+took us two hours. A fishing party there fled on seeing us, though we
+shouted that we were a travelling party (or "Olendo ").
+
+Mukat�'s people here left us, and I walked up to the village of the
+fugitives with one attendant only. Their suspicions were so thoroughly
+aroused that they would do nothing. The headman (Pima) was said to be
+absent; they could not lend us a hut, but desired us to go on to
+Mponda's. We put up a shed for ourselves, and next morning, though we
+pressed them for a guide, no one would come.
+
+From Pima's village we had a fine view of Pamalomb� and the range of
+hills on its western edge, the range which flanks the lower part of
+Nyassa,--on part of which Mukat� lives,--the gap of low land south of
+it behind which Shirwa Lake lies, and Chikala and Zomba nearly due
+south from us. People say hippopotami come from Lake Shirwa into Lake
+Nyassa. There is a great deal of vegetation in Pamalomb�, gigantic
+rushes, duckweed, and great quantities of aquatic plants on the
+bottom; one slimy translucent plant is washed ashore in abundance.
+Fish become very fat on these plants; one called "kadiakola" I eat
+much of; it has a good mass of flesh on it.
+
+It is probable that the people of Lake Tanganyika and Nyassa, and
+those on the Rivers Shir� and Zambesi, are all of one stock, for the
+dialects vary very little.[21] I took observations on this point. An
+Arab slave-party, hearing of us, decamped.
+
+_19th September, 1866._--When we had proceeded a mile this morning we
+came to 300 or 400 people making salt on a plain impregnated with it.
+They lixiviate the soil and boil the water, which has filtered through
+a bunch of grass in a hole in the bottom of a pot, till all is
+evaporated and a mass of salt left. We held along the plain till we
+came to Mponda's, a large village, with a stream running past. The
+plain at the village is very fertile, and has many large trees on it.
+The cattle of Mponda are like fatted Madagascar beasts, and the hump
+seems as if it would weigh 100 lbs.[22] The size of body is so
+enormous that their legs, as remarked by our men, seemed very small.
+Mponda is a blustering sort of person, but immensely interested in
+everything European. He says that he would like to go with me. "Would
+not care though he were away ten years." I say that he may die in the
+journey.--"He will die here as well as there, but he will see all the
+wonderful doings of our country." He knew me, having come to the boat,
+to take a look _incognito_ when we were here formerly.
+
+We found an Arab slave-party here, and went to look at the slaves;
+seeing this; Mponda was alarmed lest we should proceed to violence in
+his town, but I said to him that we went to look only. Eighty-five
+slaves were in a pen formed of dura stalks _(Holcus sorghum_). The
+majority were boys of about eight or ten years of age; others were
+grown men and women. Nearly all were in the taming-stick; a few of the
+younger ones were in thongs, the thong passing round the neck of each.
+Several pots were on the fires cooking dura and beans. A crowd went
+with us, expecting a scene, but I sat down, and asked a few questions
+about the journey, in front. The slave-party consisted of five or six
+half-caste coast Arabs, who said that they came from Zanzibar; but the
+crowd made such a noise that we could not hear ourselves speak. I
+asked if they had any objections to my looking at the slaves, the
+owners pointed out the different slaves, and said that after feeding
+them, and accounting for the losses in the way to the coast, they made
+little by the trip. I suspect that the gain is made by those who ship
+them to the ports of Arabia, for at Zanzibar most of the younger
+slaves we saw went at about seven dollars a head. I said to them it
+was a bad business altogether. They presented fowls to me in the
+evening.
+
+_20th September, 1866._--The chief begged so hard that I would stay
+another day and give medicine to a sick child, that I consented. He
+promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest of his sincerity, sent an
+immense pot of beer in the evening. The child had been benefited by
+the medicine given yesterday. He offered more food than we chose to
+take.
+
+The agricultural class does not seem to be a servile one: all
+cultivate, and the work is esteemed. The chief was out at his garden
+when we arrived, and no disgrace is attached to the field labourer.
+The slaves very likely do the chief part of the work, but all engage
+in it, and are proud of their skill. Here a great deal of grain is
+raised, though nearly all the people are Waiyau or Machinga. This is
+remarkable, as they have till lately been marauding and moving from
+place to place. The Manganja possessed the large breed of humped
+cattle which fell into the hands of the Waiyau, and knew how to milk
+them. Their present owners never milk them, and they have dwindled
+into a few instead of the thousands of former times.[23]
+
+A lion killed a woman early yesterday morning, and ate most of her
+undisturbed.
+
+It is getting very hot; the ground to the feet of the men "burns like
+fire" after noon, so we are now obliged to make short marches, and
+early in the morning chiefly.
+
+Wikatani--Bishop Mackenzie's favourite boy--met a brother here, and he
+finds that he has an elder brother and a sister at Kabinga's. The
+father who sold him into slavery is dead. He wishes to stop with his
+relatives, and it will be well if he does. Though he has not much to
+say, what he does advance against the slave-trade will have its
+weight, and it will all be in the way of preparation for better times
+and more light.
+
+The elder brother was sent for, but had not arrived when it was
+necessary for us to leave Mponda's on the Rivulet Ntemangokw�. I
+therefore gave Wikatani some cloth, a flint gun instead of the
+percussion one he carried, some flints, paper to write upon, and
+commended him to Mponda's care till his relatives arrived. He has
+lately shown a good deal of levity, and perhaps it is best that he
+should have a touch of what the world is in reality.
+
+[In a letter written about this time Dr. Livingstone, in speaking of
+Wikatani, says, "He met with a brother, and found that he had two
+brothers and one or two sisters living down at the western shore of
+Lake Pamelomb� under Kabinga. He thought that his relatives would not
+again sell him. I had asked him if he wished to remain, and he at once
+said yes, so I did not attempt to dissuade him: his excessive levity
+will perhaps be cooled by marriage. I think he may do good by telling
+some of what he has seen and heard. I asked him if he would obey an
+order from his chief to hunt the Manganja, and he said, 'No.' I hope
+he won't. In the event of any mission coming into the country of
+Mataka, he will go there. I gave him paper to write to you,[24] and,
+commending him to the chiefs, bade the poor boy farewell. I was sorry
+to part with him, but the Arabs tell the Waiyau chiefs that our object
+in liberating slaves is to make them our own and turn them to our
+religion. I had declared to them, through Wikatani as interpreter,
+that they never became our slaves, and were at liberty to go back to
+their relatives if they liked; and now it was impossible to object to
+Wikatani going without stultifying my own statements." It is only
+necessary to repeat that Wikatani and Chuma had been liberated from
+the slavers by Dr. Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861; they were
+mere children when set free.
+
+We must not forget to record the fact that when Mr. Young reached
+Maponda, two years afterwards, to ascertain whether the Doctor really
+had been murdered, as Musa declared, he was most hospitably received
+by the chief, who had by this time a great appreciation of everything
+English.]
+
+The lines of tattoo of the different tribes serve for ornaments, and
+are resorted to most by the women; it is a sort of heraldry closely
+resembling the Highland tartans.
+
+[Illustration: Manganja and Machinga women (from a Drawing by the late
+Dr. Meller).]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[16] Coal was shown to a group of natives when first the _Pioneer_
+ascended the river Shir�. Members of numerous tribes were present, and
+all recognised it at once as Makala or coal.--ED.
+
+[17] Dr. Livingstone heard this subsequently when at Casembe's.
+
+[18] The greater part were driven down into the Manganja country by
+war and famine combined, and eventually filled the slave gangs of the
+Portuguese, whose agents went from Tette and Senna to procure
+them.--ED.
+
+[19] Pronounced Mkata by the Waiyau.--ED.
+
+[20] Earthquakes are by no means uncommon. A slight shock was felt in
+1861 at Magomero; on asking the natives if they knew the cause of it,
+they replied that on one occasion, after a very severe earthquake
+which shook boulders off the mountains, all the wise men of the
+country assembled to talk about it and came to the following
+conclusion, that a star had fallen from heaven into the sea, and that
+the bubbling caused the whole earth to rock; they said the effect was
+the same as that caused by throwing, a red-hot stone into a pot of
+water.--ED.
+
+[21] The Waiyau language differs very much from the Nyassa, and is
+exceedingly difficult to master: it holds good from the coast to
+Nyassa, but to the west of the Lake the Nyassa tongue is spoken over a
+vast tract.--ED.
+
+[22] We shall see that more to the north the hump entirely disappears.
+
+[23] It is very singular to witness the disgust with which the idea of
+drinking milk is received by most of these tribes when we remember
+that the Caffre nations on the south, and again, tribes more to the
+north, subsist principally on it. A lad will undergo punishment rather
+than milk a goat. Eggs are likewise steadily eschewed.--ED.
+
+[24] To myself.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited
+    chief. Beaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of
+    Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men
+    desert. Beaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once
+    more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of
+    Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the
+    transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance.
+    Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake.
+    The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin
+    Campbell. Milandos.
+
+_21st September, 1866._--We marched westwards, making across the base
+of Cape Maclear. Two men employed as guides and carriers, went along
+grumbling that their dignity was so outraged by working--"only fancy
+Waiyau carrying like slaves!!" They went but a short distance, and
+took advantage of my being in front to lay down the loads, one of
+which consisted of the havildar's bed and cooking things; here they
+opened the other bundle and paid themselves--the gallant havildar
+sitting and looking on. He has never been of the smallest use, and
+lately has pretended to mysterious pains in his feet; no swelling or
+other symptom accompanied this complaint. On coming to Pima's village
+he ate a whole fowl and some fish for supper, slept soundly till
+daybreak, then on awaking commenced a furious groaning--"feet were so
+bad." I told him that people usually moaned when insensible, but he
+had kept quiet till he awaked; he sulked at this, and remained all
+day, though I sent a man to carry his kit for him, and when he came
+up he had changed the seat of his complaint from his feet to any part
+of his abdomen. He gave off his gun-belt and pouch to the carrier.
+This was a blind to me, for I examined and found that he had already
+been stealing and selling his ammunition: this is all preparatory to
+returning to the coast with some slave-trader. Nothing can exceed the
+ease and grace with which sepoys can glide from a swagger into the
+most abject begging of food from the villagers. He has remained
+behind.
+
+_22nd September, 1866._--The hills we crossed were about 700 feet above
+Nyassa, generally covered with trees; no people were seen. We slept by
+the brook Sikoch�. Rocks of hardened sandstone rested on mica schist,
+which had an efflorescence of alum on it, above this was dolomite; the
+hills often capped with it and oak-spar, giving a snowy appearance. We
+had a Waiyau party with us--six handsomely-attired women carried huge
+pots of beer for their husbands, who very liberally invited us to
+partake. After seven hours' hard travelling we came to the village,
+where we spend Sunday by the torrent Usangazi, and near a remarkable
+mountain, Namasi. The chief, a one-eyed man, was rather coy--coming
+_incognito_ to visit us; and, as I suspected that he was present, I
+asked if the chief were an old woman, afraid to look at and welcome a
+stranger? All burst into a laugh, and looked at him, when he felt
+forced to join in it, and asked what sort of food we liked best. Chuma
+put this clear enough by saying, "He eats everything eaten by the
+Waiyau." This tribe, or rather the Machinga, now supersede the
+Manganja. We passed one village of the latter near this, a sad,
+tumble-down affair, while the Waiyau villages are very neat, with
+handsome straw or reed fences all around their huts.
+
+_24th September, 1866._--We went only 2-1/2 miles to the village of
+Marenga, a very large one, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom
+of the heel of the Lake. The chief is ill of a loathsome disease
+derived direct from the Arabs. Raised patches of scab of circular form
+disfigure the face and neck as well as other parts. His brother begged
+me to see him and administer some remedy for the same complaint. He is
+at a village a little way off, and though sent for, was too ill to
+come or to be carried. The tribe is of Babisa origin. Many of these
+people had gone to the coast as traders, and returning with arms and
+ammunition joined the Waiyau in their forays on the Manganja, and
+eventually set themselves up as an independent tribe. The women do not
+wear the lip-ring, though the majority of them are Waiyau. They
+cultivate largely, and have plenty to eat. They have cattle, but do
+not milk them.
+
+The bogs, or earthen sponges,[25] of this country occupy a most
+important part in its physical geography, and probably explain the
+annual inundations of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sloping
+towards a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, there we
+have the conditions requisite for the formation of an African sponge.
+The vegetation, not being of a heathy or peat-forming kind, falls
+down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many cases a mass of
+this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand,
+which is revealed by crabs and other aquatic animals bringing it to
+the surface. At present, in the dry season, the black loam is cracked
+in all directions, and the cracks are often as much as three inches
+wide, and very deep. The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests
+on the sand, but when the rains come, the first supply is nearly all
+absorbed in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, and floats on
+the sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a
+landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that spot. All the pools in
+the lower portion of this spring-course are filled by the first rains,
+which happen south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over
+any spot. The second, or greater rains, happen in his course north
+again, when all the bogs and river-courses being wet, the supply runs
+off, and forms the inundation: this was certainly the case as observed
+on the Zambesi and Shir�, and, taking the different times for the
+sun's passage north of the equator, it explains the inundation of the
+Nile.
+
+_25th September, 1866._--Marenga's town on the west shore of Lake Nyassa is
+very large, and his people collected in great numbers to gaze at the
+stranger. The chief's brother asked a few questions, and I took the
+occasion to be a good one for telling him something about the Bible
+and the future state. The men said that their fathers had never told
+them aught about the soul, but they thought that the whole man rotted
+and came to nothing. What I said was very nicely put by a volunteer
+spokesman, who seemed to have a gift that way, for all listened most
+attentively, and especially when told that our Father in heaven loved
+all, and heard prayers addressed to Him.
+
+Marenga came dressed in a red-figured silk shawl, and attended by
+about ten court beauties, who spread a mat for him, then a cloth
+above, and sat down as if to support him. He asked me to examine his
+case inside a hut. He exhibited his loathsome skin disease, and being
+blacker than his wives, the blotches with which he was covered made
+him appear very ugly. He thought that the disease was in the country
+before Arabs came. Another new disease acquired from them was the
+small-pox.
+
+_26th September, 1866._--An Arab passed us yesterday, his slaves going by
+another route across the base of Cape Maclear. He told Musa that all
+the country in front was full of Mazitu; that forty-four Arabs and
+their followers had been killed by them at Kasungu, and he only
+escaped. Musa and all the Johanna men now declared that they would go
+no farther. Musa said, "No good country that; I want to go back to
+Johanna to see my father and mother and son." I took him to Marenga,
+and asked the chief about the Mazitu. He explained that the
+disturbance was caused by the Manganja finding that Jumb� brought
+Arabs and ammunition into the country every year, and they resented it
+in consequence; they would not allow more to come, because they were
+the sufferers, and their nation was getting destroyed.
+
+I explained to Musa that we should avoid the Mazitu: Marenga added,
+"There are no Mazitu near where you are going;" but Musa's eyes _stood
+out_ with terror, and he said, "I no can believe that man." But I
+inquired, "How can you believe the Arab so easily?" Musa answered, "I
+ask him to tell me true, and he say true, true," &c.
+
+When we started, all the Johanna men walked off, leaving the goods on
+the ground. They have been such inveterate thieves that I am not sorry
+to get rid of them; for though my party is now inconveniently small, I
+could not trust them with flints in their guns, nor allow them to
+remain behind, for their object was invariably to plunder their loads.
+
+[Here then we have Livingstone's account of the origin of that
+well-told story, which at first seemed too true. How Mr. Edward Young,
+R.N., declared it to be false, and subsequently proved it untrue, is
+already well known. This officer's quick voyage to Lake Nyassa
+reflected the greatest credit on him, and all hearts were filled with
+joy when he returned and reported the tale of Livingstone's murder to
+be merely an invention of Musa and his comrades.]
+
+I ought to mention that the stealing by the Johanna men was not the
+effect of hunger; it attained its height when we had plenty. If one
+remained behind, we knew his object in delaying was stealing. He gave
+what he filched to the others, and Musa shared the dainties they
+bought with the stolen property. When spoken to he would say, "I every
+day tell Johanna men no steal Doctor's things." As he came away and
+left them in the march, I insisted out his bringing up all his men;
+this he did not relish, and the amount stolen was not small. One stole
+fifteen pounds of fine powder, another seven, another left six
+table-cloths out of about twenty-four; another called out to a man to
+bring a fish, and he would buy it with beads, the beads being stolen,
+and Musa knew it all and connived at it; but it was terror that drove
+him away at last.
+
+With our goods in canoes we went round the bottom of the heel of
+Nyassa, slept among reeds, and next morning (27th) landed at Msangwa,
+which is nearly opposite Kimsusa's, or Katosa's, as the Makololo
+called him. A man had been taken off by a crocodile last night; he had
+been drinking beer, and went down to the water to cool himself, where
+he lay down, and the brute seized him. The water was very muddy, being
+stirred up by an east wind, which lashed the waves into our canoes,
+and wetted our things. The loud wail of the women is very painful to
+hear; it sounds so dolefully.
+
+_28th, September, 1866._--We reached Kinisusa's, below Mount Mulundini, of
+Kirk's range.[26] The chief was absent, but he was sent for
+immediately: his town has much increased since I saw it last.
+
+_29th September, 1866._--Another Arab passed last night, with the tale that
+his slaves had all been taken from him by the Mazitu. It is more
+respectable to be robbed by them than by the Manganja, who are much
+despised and counted nobodies. I propose to go west of this among the
+Maravi until quite away beyond the disturbances, whether of Mazitu or
+Manganja.
+
+_30th September, 1866._--We enjoy our Sunday here. We have-abundance of
+food from Kimsusa's wife. The chief wished me to go alone and enjoy
+his drinking bout, and then we could return to this place together;
+but this was not to my taste.
+
+_1st October, 1866._--Kimsusa, or Mehusa, came this morning, and
+seemed very glad again to see his old friend. He sent off at once to
+bring an enormous ram, which had either killed or seriously injured a
+man. The animal came tied to a pole to keep him off the man who held
+it, while a lot more carried him. He was prodigiously fat;[27] this is
+a true African way of showing love--plenty of fat and beer.
+Accordingly the chief brought a huge basket of "pombe," the native
+beer, and another of "nsima," or porridge, and a pot of cooked meat;
+to these were added a large basket of maize. So much food had been
+brought to us, that we had at last to explain that we could not carry
+it.
+
+[The Doctor states a fact in the next few lines which shows that the
+Africans readily profit by advice which appeals to their common sense,
+and we make this observation in full knowledge of similar instances.]
+
+Kimsusa says that they felt earthquakes at the place Mponda now
+occupies, but none where he is now. He confirms the tradition that the
+Manganja came from the west or W.N.W. He speaks more rationally about
+the Deity than some have done, and adds, that it was by following the
+advice which I gave him the last time I saw him, and not selling his
+people, that his village is now three times its former size. He has
+another village besides, and he was desirous that I should see that
+too; that was the reason he invited me to come, but the people would
+come and visit me.
+
+_2nd October, 1866._--Kimsusa made his appearance early with a huge
+basket of beer, 18 inches high and 15 inches in diameter. He served it
+out for a time, taking deep draughts himself, becoming extremely
+loquacious in consequence. He took us to a dense thicket behind his
+town, among numbers of lofty trees, many of which I have seen nowhere
+else; that under which we sat bears a fruit in clusters, which is
+eatable, and called "_Mbedwa_." A space had been cleared, and we were
+taken to this shady spot as the one in which business of importance
+and secrecy is transacted. Another enormous basket of beer was brought
+here by his wives, but there was little need for it, for Kimsusa
+talked incessantly, and no business was done.
+
+_3rd October, 1866._--The chief came early, and sober. I rallied him
+on his previous loquacity, and said one ought to find time in the
+morning if business was to be done: he took it in good part, and one
+of his wives joined in bantering him. She is _the_ wife and the mother
+of the sons in whom he delights, and who will succeed him. I proposed
+to him to send men with me to the Babisa country, and I would pay them
+there, where they could buy ivory for him with the pay, and, bringing
+it back, he would be able to purchase clothing without selling his
+people. He says that his people would not bring the pay or anything
+else back. When he sends to purchase ivory he gives the price to Arabs
+or Babisa, and they buy for him and conduct his business honestly; but
+his people, the Manganja, cannot be trusted: this shows a remarkable
+state of distrust, and, from previous information, it is probably
+true.
+
+A party of the Arab Khambuiri's people went up lately to the Maravi
+country above this, and immediately west of Kirk's range, to purchase
+slaves: but they were attacked by the Maravi, and dispersed with
+slaughter: this makes Kimsusa's people afraid to venture there. They
+had some quarrel with the Maravi also of their own, and no intercourse
+now took place. A path further south was followed by Mponda lately,
+and great damage done, so it would not be wise to go on his footsteps.
+Kimsusa said he would give me carriers to go up to the Maravi, but he
+wished to be prepaid: to this I agreed, but even then he could not
+prevail on anyone to go. He then sent for an old Mobisa man, who has a
+village under him, and acknowledges Kimsusa's power. He says that he
+fears that, should he force his Manganja to go, they would leave us on
+the road, or run away on the first appearance of danger; but this
+Mobisa man would be going to his own country, and would stick by us.
+Meanwhile the chief overstocks us with beer and other food.
+
+_4th October, 1866._--The Mobisa man sent for came, but was so ignorant of
+his own country, not knowing the names of the chief Babisa town or any
+of the rivers, that I declined his guidance. He would only have been a
+clog on us; and anything about the places in front of us we could
+ascertain at the villages where we touch by inquiry as well as he
+could.
+
+A woman turned up here, and persuaded Chuma that she was his aunt. He
+wanted to give her at once a fathom of calico and beads, and wished me
+to cut his pay down for the purpose. I persuaded him to be content
+with a few beads for her. He gave her his spoon and some other
+valuables, fully persuaded that she was a relative, though he was
+interrogated first as to his father's name, and tribe, &c., before she
+declared herself.
+
+It shows a most forgiving disposition on the part of these boys to
+make presents to those who, if genuine relations, actually sold them.
+But those who have been caught young, know nothing of the evils of
+slavery, and do not believe in its ills. Chuma, for instance, believes
+now that he was caught and sold by the Manganja, and not by his own
+Waiyau, though it was just in the opposite way that he became a slave,
+and he asserted and believes that no Waiyau ever sold his own child.
+When reminded that Wikatani was sold by his own father, he denied it;
+then that the father of Chimwala, another boy, sold him, his mother,
+and sister, he replied, "These are Machinga." This is another tribe of
+Waiyau; but this showed that he was determined to justify his
+countrymen at any rate. I mention this matter, because though the
+Oxford and Cambridge Mission have an advantage in the instruction of
+boys taken quite young from slavers, yet these same boys forget the
+evils to which they were exposed and from which they were rescued, and
+it is even likely that they will, like Chuma, deny that any benefit
+was conferred upon them by their deliverance. This was not stated
+broadly by Chuma, but his tone led one to believe that he was quite
+ready to return to the former state.
+
+_5th October, 1866._--The chief came early with an immense basket of
+beer, as usual. We were ready to start: he did not relish this; but I
+told him it was clear that his people set very light by his authority.
+He declared that he would force them or go himself, with his wives as
+carriers. This dawdling and guzzling had a bad effect on my remaining
+people. Simon, a Nassick lad, for instance, overheard two words which
+he understood; these were "Mazitu" and "lipululu," or desert; and from
+these he conjured up a picture of Mazitu rushing out upon us from the
+jungle, and killing all without giving us time to say a word! To this
+he added scraps of distorted information: Khambuiri was a very bad
+chief in front, &c., all showing egregious cowardice; yet he came to
+give me advice. On asking what he knew (as he could not speak the
+language), he replied that he heard the above two words, and that
+Chuma could not translate them, but he had caught them, and came to
+warn me.
+
+The chief asked me to stay over to-day, and he would go with his wives
+to-morrow; I was his friend, and he would not see me in difficulties
+without doing his utmost. He says that there is no danger of our not
+finding people for carrying loads. It is probable that Khambuiri's
+people went as marauders, and were beaten off in consequence.
+
+_6th October, 1866._--We marched about seven miles to the north to a
+village opposite the pass Tapiri, and on a rivulet, Godedza. It was
+very hot. Kimsusa behaves like a king: his strapping wives came to
+carry loads, and shame his people. Many of the young men turned out
+and took the loads, but it was evident that they feared retaliation if
+they ventured up the pass. One wife carried beer, another meal; and as
+soon as we arrived, cooking commenced: porridge and roasted goat's
+flesh made a decent meal. A preparation of meal called "Toku" is very
+refreshing and brings out all the sugary matter in the grain: he gave
+me some in the way, and, seeing I liked it, a calabash full was
+prepared for me in the evening. Kimsusa delights in showing me to his
+people as his friend. If I could have used his pombe, or beer, it
+would have put some fat on my bones, but it requires a strong
+digestion; many of the chiefs and their wives live on it almost
+entirely. A little flesh is necessary to relieve the acidity it
+causes; and they keep all flesh very carefully, no matter how high it
+may become: drying it on a stage over a fire prevents entire
+putridity.
+
+_7th October, 1866._--I heard hooping-cough[28] in the village. We
+found our visitors so disagreeable that I was glad to march; they were
+Waiyau, and very impudent, demanding gun or game medicine to enable
+them to shoot well: they came into the hut uninvited, and would take
+no denial. It is probable that the Arabs drive a trade in gun
+medicine: it is inserted in cuts made above the thumb, and on the
+forearm. Their superciliousness shows that they feel themselves to be
+the dominant race. The Manganja trust to their old bows and arrows;
+they are much more civil than Ajawa or Waiyau.
+
+[The difference between these two great races is here well worthy of
+the further notice which Livingstone no doubt would have given it. As
+a rule, the Manganja are extremely clever in all the savage arts and
+manufactures. Their looms turn out a strong serviceable cotton cloth;
+their iron weapons and implements show a taste for design which is not
+reached by the neighbouring tribes, and in all matters that relate to
+husbandry they excel: but in dash and courage they are deficient. The
+Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped heads, as
+distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the poor Manganja;
+they are jocular and merry, given to travelling, and bold in
+war--these are qualities which serve them well as they are driven from
+pillar to post through slave wars and internal dissension, but they
+have not the brains of the Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark
+in any direction where brains are wanted.]
+
+A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the whole haul of his
+net, came and gave me four fowls: some really delight in showing
+kindness. When we came near the bottom of the pass Tapiri, Kimsusa's
+men became loud against his venturing further; he listened, then burst
+away from them: he listened again, then did the same; and as he had
+now got men for us, I thought it better to let him go.
+
+In three hours and a quarter we had made a clear ascent of 2200 feet
+above the Lake. The first persons we met were two men and a boy, who
+were out hunting with a dog and basket-trap. This is laid down in the
+run of some small animal; the dog chases it, and it goes into the
+basket which is made of split bamboo, and has prongs looking inwards,
+which prevent its egress: mouse traps are made in the same fashion. I
+suspected that the younger of the men had other game in view, and
+meant, if fit opportunity offered, to insert an arrow in a Waiyau, who
+was taking away his wife as a slave. He told me before we had gained
+the top of the ascent that some Waiyau came to a village, separated
+from his by a small valley, picked a quarrel with the inhabitants, and
+then went and took the wife and child of a poorer countryman to pay
+these pretended offences.
+
+_8th October, 1866._--At the first village we found that the people up
+here and those down below were mutually afraid of each other. Kimsusa
+came to the bottom of the range, his last act being the offer of a pot
+of beer, and a calabash of Toku, which latter was accepted. I paid his
+wives for carrying our things: they had done well, and after we gained
+the village where we slept, sang and clapped their hands vigorously
+till one o'clock in the morning, when I advised them to go to sleep.
+The men he at last provided were very faithful and easily satisfied.
+Here we found the headman, Kawa, of Mpalapala, quite as hospitable. In
+addition to providing a supper, it is the custom to give breakfast
+before starting. Resting on the 8th to make up for the loss of rest on
+Sunday; we marched on Tuesday (the 9th), but were soon brought to a
+stand by Gombwa, whose village, Tamiala, stands on another ridge.
+
+Gombwa, a laughing, good-natured man, said that he had sent for all
+his people to see me; and I ought to sleep, to enable them to look on
+one the like of whom had never come their way before. Intending to go
+on, I explained some of my objects in coming through the country,
+advising the people to refrain from selling each other, as it ends in
+war and depopulation. He was cunning, and said, "Well, you must sleep
+here, and all my people will come and hear those words of peace." I
+explained that I had employed carriers, who expected to be paid though
+I had gone but a small part of a day; he replied, "But they will go
+home and come again to-morrow, and it will count but one day:" I was
+thus constrained to remain.
+
+_9th October, 1866._--Both barometer and boiling-point showed an
+altitude of upwards of 4000 feet above the sea. This is the hottest
+month, but the air is delightfully clear, and delicious. The country
+is very fine, lying in long slopes, with mountains rising all around,
+from 2000 to 3000 feet above this upland. They are mostly jagged and
+rough (not rounded like those near to Mataka's): the long slopes are
+nearly denuded of trees, and the patches of cultivation are so large
+and often squarish in form, that but little imagination is requisite
+to transform the whole into the cultivated fields of England; but no
+hedgerows exist. The trees are in clumps on the tops of the ridges, or
+at the villages, or at the places of sepulture. Just now the young
+leaves are out, but are not yet green. In some lights they look brown,
+but with transmitted light, or when one is near them, crimson
+prevails. A yellowish-green is met sometimes in the young leaves, and
+brown, pink, and orange-red. The soil is rich, but the grass is only
+excessively rank in spots; in general it is short. A kind of trenching
+of the ground is resorted to; they hoe deep, and draw it well to
+themselves: this exposes the other earth to the hoe. The soil is
+burned too: the grass and weeds are placed in flat heaps, and soil
+placed over them: the burning is slow, and most of the products of
+combustion are retained to fatten the field; in this way the people
+raise large crops. Men and women and children engage in field labour,
+but at present many of the men are engaged in spinning buaz�[29] and
+cotton. The former is made into a coarse sacking-looking stuff,
+immensely strong, which seems to be worn by the women alone; the men
+are clad in uncomfortable goatskins. No wild animals seem to be in the
+country, and indeed the population is so large they would have very
+unsettled times of it. At every turning we meet people, or see their
+villages; all armed with bows and arrows. The bows are unusually long:
+I measured one made of bamboo, and found that along the bowstring it
+measured six feet four inches. Many carry large knives of fine iron;
+and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men and women wear the hair
+long, a mass of small ringlets comes down and rests on the shoulders,
+giving them the appearance of the ancient Egyptians. One side is often
+cultivated, and the mass hangs jauntily on that side; some few have a
+solid cap of it. Not many women wear the lip-ring: the example of the
+Waiyau has prevailed so far; but some of the young women have raised
+lines crossing each other on the arms, which must have cost great
+pain: they have also small cuts, covering in some cases the whole
+body. The Maravi or Manganja here may be said to be in their primitive
+state. We find them very liberal with their food: we give a cloth to
+the headman of the village where we pass the night, and he gives a
+goat, or at least cooked fowls and porridge, at night and morning.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo on Women.]
+
+We were invited by Gombwa in the afternoon to speak the same words to
+his people that we used to himself in the morning. He nudged a boy to
+respond, which is considered polite, though he did it only with a
+rough hem! at the end of each sentence. As for our general discourse
+we mention our relationship to our Father: His love to all His
+children--the guilt of selling any of His children--the consequence;
+_e.g._ it begets war, for they don't like to sell their own, and steal
+from other villagers, who retaliate. Arabs and Waiyau invited into the
+country by their selling, foster feuds, and war and depopulation
+ensue. We mention the Bible--future state--prayer: advise union, that
+they should unite as one family to expel enemies, who came first as
+slave-traders, and ended by leaving the country a wilderness. In
+reference to union, we showed that they ought to have seen justice
+done to the man who lost his wife and child at their very doors; but
+this want of cohesion is the bane of the Manganja. If the evil does
+not affect themselves they don't care whom it injures; and Gombwa
+confirmed this, by saying that when he routed Khambuiri's people, the
+villagers west of him fled instead of coming to his aid.
+
+We hear that many of the Manganja up here are fugitives from Nyassa.
+
+_10th October, 1866._--Kawa and his people were with us early this
+morning, and we started from Tamiala with them. The weather is lovely,
+and the scenery, though at present tinged with yellow from the grass,
+might be called glorious. The bright sun and delicious air are quite
+exhilarating. We passed a fine flowing rivulet, called Leviz�, going
+into the Lake, and many smaller runnels of delicious cold water. On
+resting by a dark sepulchral grove, a tree attracted the attention, as
+nowhere else seen: it is called Bokonto, and said to bear eatable
+fruit. Many fine flowers were just bursting into full blossom. After
+about four hours' march we put up at Chitimba, the village of
+Ka�gomba, and were introduced by Kawa, who came all the way for the
+purpose.
+
+_11th October, 1866._--A very cold morning, with a great bank of black
+clouds in the east, whence the wind came. Therm. 59�; in hut 69�. The
+huts are built very well. The roof, with the lower part plastered, is
+formed so as not to admit a ray of light, and the only visible mode of
+ingress for it is by the door. This case shows that winter is cold: on
+proposing to start, breakfast was not ready: then a plan was formed to
+keep me another day at a village close by, belonging to one Kulu, a
+man of Kauma, to whom we go next. It was effectual, and here we are
+detained another day. A curiously cut-out stool is in my hut, made by
+the Mkwisa, who are south-west of this: it is of one block, but
+hollowed out, and all the spaces indicated are hollow too: about 2-1/2
+feet long by 1-1/2 foot high.
+
+[Illustration: Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood hollowed
+out.]
+
+_12th October, 1866._--We march westerly, with a good deal of
+southing. Kulu gave us a goat, and cooked liberally for us all. He set
+off with us as if to go to Kauma's in our company, but after we had
+gone a couple of miles he slipped behind, and ran away. Some are
+naturally mean, and some naturally noble: the mean cannot help showing
+their nature, nor can the noble; but the noble-hearted must enjoy life
+most. Kulu got a cloth, and he gave us at least its value; but he
+thought he had got more than he gave, and so by running away that he
+had done us nicely, without troubling himself to go and introduce us
+to Kauma. I usually request a headman of a village to go with us. They
+give a good report of us, if for no other reason than for their own
+credit, because no one likes to be thought giving his countenance to
+people other than respectable, and it costs little.
+
+We came close to the foot of several squarish mountains, having
+perpendicular sides. One, called "Ulazo pa Malungo," is used by the
+people, whose villages cluster round its base as a storehouse for
+grain. Large granaries stand on its top, containing food to be used in
+case of war. A large cow is kept up there, which is supposed capable
+of knowing and letting the owners know when war is coming.[30] There
+is a path up, but it was not visible to us. The people are all
+Kanthunda, or climbers, not Maravi. Kimsusa said that he was the only
+Maravi chief, but this I took to be an ebullition of beer bragging:
+the natives up here, however, confirm this, and assert that they are
+not Maravi, who are known by having markings down the side of the
+face.
+
+We spent the night at a Kanthunda village on the western side of a
+mountain called Phunz� (the _h_ being an aspirate only). Many villages
+are planted round its base, but in front, that is, westwards, we have
+plains, and there the villages are as numerous: mostly they are within
+half a mile of each other, and few are a mile from other hamlets. Each
+village has a clump of trees around it: this is partly for shade and
+partly for privacy from motives of decency. The heat of the sun causes
+the effluvia to exhale quickly, so they are seldom offensive. The rest
+of the country, where not cultivated, is covered with grass, the
+seed-stalks about knee deep. It is gently undulating, lying in low
+waves, stretching N.E. and S.W. The space between each wave is usually
+occupied by a boggy spot or watercourse, which in some cases is filled
+with pools with trickling rills between. All the people are engaged
+at present in making mounds six or eight feet square, and from two to
+three feet high. The sods in places not before hoed are separated from
+the soil beneath and collected into flattened heaps, the grass
+undermost; when dried, fire is applied and slow combustion goes on,
+most of the products of the burning being retained in the ground, much
+of the soil is incinerated. The final preparation is effected by the
+men digging up the subsoil round the mound, passing each hoeful into
+the left hand, where it pulverizes, and is then thrown on to the heap.
+It is thus virgin soil on the top of the ashes and burned ground of
+the original heap, very clear of weeds. At present many mounds have
+beans and maize about four inches high. Holes, a foot in diameter and
+a few inches deep, are made irregularly over the surface of the mound,
+and about eight or ten grains put into each: these are watered by hand
+and calabash, and kept growing till the rains set in, when a very
+early crop is secured.
+
+_13th October, 1866._--After leaving Phunz�, we crossed the Levi�g�, a
+rivulet which flows northwards, and then into Lake Nyassa; the lines
+of gentle undulation tend in that direction. Some hills appear on the
+plains, but after the mountains which we have left behind they are
+mere mounds. We are over 3000 feet above the sea, and the air is
+delicious; but we often pass spots covered with a plant which grows in
+marshy places, and its heavy smell always puts me in mind that at
+other seasons this may not be so pleasant a residence. The fact of
+even maize being planted on mounds where the ground is naturally quite
+dry, tells a tale of abundant humidity of climate.
+
+Kauma, a fine tall man, with a bald head and pleasant manners, told us
+that some of his people had lately returned from the Chibisa or Babisa
+country, whither they had gone to buy ivory, and they would give me
+information about the path. He took a fancy to one of the boys'
+blankets; offering a native cloth, much larger, in exchange, and even
+a sheep to boot; but the owner being unwilling to part with his
+covering, Kauma told me that he had not sent for his Babisa travellers
+on account of my boy refusing to deal with him. A little childish
+this, but otherwise he was very hospitable; he gave me a fine goat,
+which, unfortunately, my people left behind.
+
+The chief said that no Arabs ever came his way, nor Portuguese native
+traders. When advising them to avoid the first attempts to begin the
+slave-trade, as it would inevitably lead to war and depopulation,
+Kauma replied that the chiefs had resolved to unite against the Waiyau
+of Mpond� should he come again on a foray up to the highlands; but
+they are like a rope of sand, there is no cohesion among them, and
+each village is nearly independent of every other: they mutually
+distrust each other.
+
+_14th October, 1866._--Spent Sunday here. Kauma says that his people
+are partly Kanthunda and partly Chip�ta. The first are the
+mountaineers, the second dwellers on the plains. The Chip�ta have many
+lines of marking: they are all only divisions of the great Manganja
+tribe, and their dialects differ very slightly from that spoken by the
+same people on the Shir�. The population is very great and very
+ceremonious. When we meet anyone he turns aside and sits down: we clap
+the hand on the chest and say, "Re peta--re peta," that is, "we pass,"
+or "let us pass:" this is responded to at once by a clapping of the
+hands together. When a person is called at a distance he gives two
+loud claps of assent; or if he rises from near a superior he does, the
+same thing, which is a sort of leave-taking.
+
+We have to ask who are the principal chiefs in the direction which we
+wish to take, and decide accordingly. Zomba was pointed out as a chief
+on a range of hills on our west: beyond him lies Undi m'senga. I had
+to take this route, as my people have a very vivid idea of the danger
+of going northwards towards the Mazitu. We made more southing than we
+wished. One day beyond Zomba and W.S.W. is the part called Chindando,
+where the Portuguese formerly went for gold. They don't seem to have
+felt it worth while to come here, as neither ivory nor gold could be
+obtained if they did. The country is too full of people to allow any
+wild animals elbow-room: even the smaller animals are hunted down by
+means of nets and dogs.
+
+We rested at Pachoma; the headman offering a goat and beer, but I
+declined, and went on to Molomba. Here Kauma's carriers turned because
+a woman had died that morning as we left the village. They asserted
+that had she died before we started not a man would have left: this
+shows a reverence for death, for the woman was no relative of any of
+them. The headman of Molomba was very poor but very liberal, cooking
+for us and presenting a goat: another headman from a neighbouring
+village, a laughing, good-natured old man, named Chikala, brought beer
+and a fowl in the morning. I asked him to go on with us to Mironga, it
+being important, as above-mentioned, to have the like of his kind in
+our company, and he consented. We saw Mount Ngala in the distance,
+like a large sugar-loaf shot up in the air: in our former route to
+Kasungu we passed north of it.
+
+_16th October, 1866._--Crossed the rivulet Chikuyo going N. for the
+Lake, and Mironga being but one-and-a-half hour off, we went on to
+Chipanga: this is the proper name of what on the Zambesi is corrupted
+into Shupanga. The headman, a miserable hemp-consuming[31] leper, fled
+from us. We were offered a miserable hut, which we refused, Chikala
+meanwhile went through the whole village seeking a better, which we
+ultimately found: it was not in this chief to be generous, though
+Chikala did what he could in trying to indoctrinate him: when I gave
+him a present he immediately proposed to _sell_ a goat! We get on
+pretty well however.
+
+Zomha is in a range of hills to our west, called Zala nyama. The
+Portuguese, in going to Casembe, went still further west than this.
+
+Passing on we came to a smithy, and watched the founder at work
+drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. He broke through the
+hardened slag by striking it with an iron instrument inserted in the
+end of a pole, when the material flowed out of the small hole left for
+the purpose in the bottom of the furnace. The ore (probably the black
+oxide) was like sand, and was put in at the top of the furnace, mixed
+with charcoal. Only one bellows was at work, formed out of a goatskin,
+and the blast was very poor. Many of these furnaces, or their remains,
+are met with on knolls; those at work have a peculiarly tall hut built
+over them.
+
+On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, with the
+Diampw� stream flowing along it, and the Dzala nyama range on the
+western side, are two villages screened by fine specimens of the
+_Ficus Indica_. One of these is owned by the headman Theresa, and
+there we spent the night. We made very short marches, for the sun is
+very powerful, and the soil baked hard, is sore on the feet: no want
+of water, however, is felt, for we come to supplies every mile or two.
+
+The people look very poor, having few or no beads; the ornaments being
+lines and cuttings on the skin. They trust more to buaz� than cotton.
+I noticed but two cotton patches. The women are decidedly plain; but
+monopolize all the buaz� cloth. Theresa was excessively liberal, and
+having informed us that Zomba lived some distance up the range and was
+not the principal man in these parts, we, to avoid climbing the hills,
+turned away to the north, in the direction of the paramount chief,
+Chisumpi, whom we found to be only traditionally great.
+
+_20th October, 1866._--In passing along we came to a village embowered
+in fine trees; the headman is Kaveta, a really fine specimen of the
+Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine forehead and Assyrian nose. He
+proposed to us to remain over night with him, and I unluckily
+declined.
+
+Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman, and then came
+to a smith's village, where the same invitation was given and refused.
+A sort of infatuation drove us on, and after a long hot march we found
+the great Chisumpi, the facsimile in black of Sir Colin Campbell; his
+nose, mouth, and the numerous wrinkles on his face were identical with
+those of the great General, but here all resemblance ceased. Two men
+had preceded us to give information, and when I followed I saw that
+his village was one of squalid misery, the only fine things about
+being the lofty trees in which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at
+a village about half a mile behind: his son was browbeating him on
+some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. Next
+morning he came early to that village, and arranged for our departure,
+offering nothing, and apparently not wishing to see us at all. I
+suspect that though paramount chief, he is weak-minded, and has lost
+thereby all his influence, but in the people's eyes he is still a
+great one.
+
+Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, I inquired for a
+village in which we could rest Saturday and Sunday, and at a distance
+from Chisumpi. A headman volunteered to lead us to one west of this.
+In passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our guide remarked,
+"Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was the first time I have
+heard the word "sleep" applied to death in these parts. The trees in
+these groves, and around many of the villages, are very large, and
+show what the country would become if depopulated.
+
+We crossed the Diampw� or Adiampw�, from five to fifteen yards wide,
+and well supplied with water even now. It rises near the Ndomo
+mountains, and flows northwards into the Lintip� and Lake. We found
+Chitokola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant one on the east side
+of the Adiampw� Valley. Many elephants and other animals feed in the
+valley, and we saw the Bechuana Hopo[32] again after many years.
+
+The Ambarr�, otherwise Nyumbo plant, has a pea-shaped, or rather
+papilionaceous flower, with a fine scent. It seems to grow quite wild;
+its flowers are yellow.
+
+Chaola is the poison used by the Maravi for their arrows, it is said
+to cause mortification.
+
+One of the wonders usually told of us in this upland region is that we
+sleep without fire. The boys' blankets suffice for warmth during the
+night, when the thermometer sinks to 64�-60�, but no one else has
+covering sufficient; some huts in process of building here show that a
+thick coating of plaster is put on outside the roof before the grass
+thatch is applied; not a chink is left for the admission of air.
+
+Ohitikola was absent from Paritala when we arrived on some _milando_
+or other. These _milandos_ are the business of their lives. They are
+like petty lawsuits; if one trespasses on his neighbour's rights in
+any way it is a _milando_, and the headmen of all the villages about
+are called on to settle it. Women are a fruitful source of _milando_.
+A few ears of Indian corn had been taken by a person, and Chitikola
+had been called a full day's journey off to settle this _milando_. He
+administered _Muav�_[33] and the person vomited, therefore innocence
+was clearly established! He came in the evening of the 21st footsore
+and tired, and at once gave us some beer. This perpetual reference to
+food and drink is natural, inasmuch as it is the most important point
+in our intercourse. While the chief was absent we got nothing; the
+queen even begged a little meat for her child, who was recovering from
+an attack of small-pox. There being no shops we had to sit still
+without food. I took observations for longitude, and whiled away the
+time by calculating the lunars. Next day the chief gave us a goat
+cooked whole and plenty of porridge: I noticed that he too had the
+Assyrian type of face.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[25] Dr. Livingstone's description of the "Sponge" will stand the
+reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention of these
+obstructions in the later travels towards the north.--ED.
+
+[26] So named when Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Kirk, and Mr. Charles
+Livingstone, discovered Lake Nyassa together.
+
+[27] The sheep are of the black-haired variety: their tails grow to an
+enormous size. A rain which came from Nunkajowa, a Waiyau chief, on a
+former occasion, was found to have a tail weighing 11 lbs.; but for
+the journey, and two or three days short commons, an extra 2 or 3 lbs.
+of fat �would have been on it.--ED.
+
+[28] This complaint has not been reported as an African disease
+before; it probably clings to the higher levels.--ED.
+
+[29] A fine fibre derived from the shoots of a shrub (_Securidaca
+Longipedunculata_).
+
+[30] Several superstitions of this nature seem to point to a remnant
+of the old heathen ritual, and the worship of gods in mountain groves.
+
+[31] Hemp = bang� is smoked throughout Central Africa, and if used in
+excess produces partial imbecility.--ED.
+
+[32] The Hopo is a funnel-shaped fence which encloses a considerable
+tract of country: a "drive" is organised, and animals of all
+descriptions are urged on till they become jammed together in the neck
+of the hopo, where they are speared to death or else destroyed in a
+number of pitfalls placed there for the purpose.
+
+[33] The ordeal poison.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu.
+    Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed
+    between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings.
+    An old Nimrod. The Bua Eiver. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of
+    transport. Chilob�. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou
+    bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the
+    Loangwa.
+
+
+We started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of October, and he
+led us away westwards across the Lilongw� River, then turned north
+till we came to a village called Mashumba, the headman of which was
+the only chief who begged anything except medicine, and he got less
+than we were in the habit of giving in consequence: we give a cloth
+usually, and clothing being very scarce this is considered
+munificent.[34]
+
+We had the Zalanyama range on our left, and our course was generally
+north, but we had to go in the direction of the villages which were on
+friendly terms with our guides, and sometimes we went but a little
+way, as they studied to make the days as short as possible. The
+headman of the last village, Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a
+village of smiths, four furnaces and one smithy being at work. We
+crossed the Chiniambo, a strong river coming from Zalanyama and
+flowing into the Mirongw�, which again goes into Lintip�. The country
+near the hills becomes covered with forest, the trees are chiefly
+Masuko Mochenga (the gum-copal tree), the bark-cloth tree and
+rhododendrons. The heath known at the Cape as _Rhinoster bosch_ occurs
+frequently, and occasionally we have thorny acacias. The grass is
+short, but there is plenty of it.
+
+_24th October, 1866._--Our guide, Mpanda, led us through the forest by
+what he meant to be a short cut to Chimuna's. We came on a herd of
+about fifteen elephants, and many trees laid down by these animals:
+they seem to relish the roots of some kinds, and spend a good deal of
+time digging them up; they chew woody roots and branches as thick as
+the handle of a spade. Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd
+of elands; they kept out of bow-shot only: a herd of the baama or
+hartebeest stood at 200 paces, and one was shot.
+
+While all were rejoicing over the meat we got news, from the
+inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the Mazitu were
+out on a foray. While roasting and eating meat I went forward with
+Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry the rest, but was soon
+recalled. Another crowd were also in full retreat; the people were
+running straight to the Zalanyama range regardless of their feet,
+making a path for themselves through the forest; they had escaped from
+the Mazitu that morning; "they saw them!" Mpanda's people wished to
+leave and go to look after their own village, but we persuaded them,
+on pain of a _milando_, to take us to the nearest village, that was at
+the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of the
+fugitives. The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills must
+have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison with dear
+life! We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend our property
+in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we should, in the event of
+being successful, be a defence to the fugitives who crowded up its
+rocky sides, but next morning we heard that the enemy had gone to the
+south. Had we gone forward, as we intended, to search for men to
+carry the meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the
+second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their village
+till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near escape I had had
+from walking into their power.
+
+_25th October, 1866._--Came along northwards to Chimuna's town, a
+large one of Chip�ta with many villages around. Our path led through
+the forest, and as we emerged into the open strath in which the
+villages lie, we saw the large anthills, each the size of the end of a
+one-storied cottage, covered with men on guard watching for the
+Mazitu.
+
+A long line of villagers were just arriving from the south, and we
+could see at some low hills in that direction the smoke arising from
+the burning settlements. None but men were present, the women and the
+chief were at the mountain called Pamb�; all were fully armed with
+their long bows, some flat in the bow, others round, and it was common
+to have the quiver on the back, and a bunch of feathers stuck in the
+hair like those in our Lancers' shakos. But they remained not to
+fight, but to watch their homes and stores of grain from robbers
+amongst their own people in case no Mazitu came! They gave a good hut,
+and sent off at once to let the chief at Pamb� know of our arrival. We
+heard the cocks crowing up there in the mountain as we passed in the
+morning. Chimuna came in the evening, and begged me to remain a day in
+his village, Pamaloa, as he was the greatest chief the Chip�ta had. I
+told him all wished the same thing, and if I listened to each chief we
+should never get on, and the rains were near, but we had to stay over
+with him.
+
+_26th October, 1866._--All the people came down to-day from Pamb�, and
+crowded to see the strangers. They know very little beyond their own
+affairs, though these require a good deal of knowledge, and we should
+be sorely put about if, without their skill, we had to maintain an
+existence here. Their furnaces are rather bottle shaped, and about
+seven feet high by three broad. One toothless patriarch had heard of
+books and umbrellas, but had never seen either. The oldest inhabitant
+had never travelled far from the spot in which he was born, yet he has
+a good knowledge of soils and agriculture, hut-building,
+basket-making, pottery, and the manufacture of bark-cloth and skins
+for clothing, as also making of nets, traps, and cordage.
+
+Chimuna had a most ungainly countenance, yet did well enough: he was
+very thankful for a blister on his loins to ease rheumatic pains, and
+presented a huge basket of porridge before starting, with a fowl, and
+asked me to fire a gun that the Mazitu might hear and know that armed
+men were here. They all say that these marauders flee from fire-arms,
+so I think that they are not Zulus at all, though adopting some of
+their ways.
+
+In going on to Mapuio's we passed several large villages, each
+surrounded by the usual euphorbia hedge, and having large trees for
+shade. We are on & level, or rather gently amdulating country, rather
+bare of trees. At the junctions of these earthen waves we have always
+an oozing bog, this often occurs in the slope down the trough of this
+terrestrial sea; bushes are common, and of the kind which were cut
+down as trees. Yellow haematite is very abundant, but the other rocks
+scarcely appear in the distance; we have mountains both on the east
+and west.
+
+On arriving at Mapuio's village, he was, as often happens, invisible,
+but he sent us a calabash of fresh-made beer, which is very
+refreshing, gave us a hut, and promised to cook for us in the evening.
+We have to employ five or six carriers, and they rule the length of
+the day's march. Those from Chimuna's village growled at the cubit of
+calico with which we paid them, but a few beads pleased them
+perfectly, and we parted good friends. It is not likely I shall ever
+see them again, but I always like to please them, because it is right
+to consider their desires. Is that not what is meant in "Blessed is he
+that considereth the poor"? There is a great deal of good in these
+poor people. In cases of _milando_ they rely on the most distant
+relations and connections to plead their cause, and seldom are they
+disappointed, though time at certain seasons, as for instance at
+present, is felt by all to be precious. Every man appears with hoe or
+axe on shoulder, and the people often only sit down as we pass and
+gaze at us till we are out of sight.
+
+[Illustration: Women's Teeth hollowed.]
+
+Many of the men have large slits in the lobe of the ear, and they have
+their distinctive tribal tattoo. The women indulge in this painful
+luxury more than the men, probably because they have very few
+ornaments. The two central front teeth are hollowed at the cutting
+edge. Many have quite the Grecian facial angle. Mapuio has thin legs
+and quite a European face. Delicate features and limbs are common, and
+the spur-heel is as scarce as among Europeans; small feet and hands
+are the rule.
+
+Clapping the hands in various ways is the polite way of saying "Allow
+me," "I beg pardon," "Permit me to pass," "Thanks," it is resorted to
+in respectful introduction and leave-taking, and also is equivalent to
+"Hear hear." When inferiors are called they respond by two brisk claps
+of the hands, meaning "I am coming." They are very punctilious amongst
+each other. A large ivory bracelet marks the headman of a village;
+there is nothing else to show differences of rank.
+
+_28th October, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Mapuio's and had a long talk
+with him; his country is in a poor state from the continual incursions
+of the Mazitu, who are wholly unchecked.
+
+_29th October, 1866._--We marched westwards to Makosa's village, and
+could not go further, as the next stage is long and through an
+ill-peopled country. The morning was lovely, the whole country bathed
+in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air disturbed the smoke as it
+slowly curled up from the heaps of burning weeds, which the native
+agriculturist wisely destroys. The people generally were busy hoeing
+in the cool of the day. One old man in a village where we rested had
+trained the little hair he had left into a tail, which, well plastered
+with fat, he had bent on itself and laid flat on his crown; another
+was carefully paring a stick for stirring the porridge, and others
+were enjoying the cool shade of the wild fig-trees which are always
+planted at villages. It is a sacred tree all over Africa and India,
+and the tender roots which drop down towards the ground are used as
+medicine--a universal remedy. Can it be a tradition of its being like
+the tree of life, which Archbishop Whately conjectures may have been
+used in Paradise to render man immortal? One kind of fig-tree is often
+seen hacked all over to get the sap, which is used as bird-lime;
+bark-cloth is made of it too. I like to see the men weaving or
+spinning, or reclining under these glorious canopies, as much as I
+love to see our more civilized people lolling on their sofas or
+ottomans.
+
+The first rain--a thunder shower--fell in the afternoon, air in shade
+before it 92�; wet bulb 74�. At noon the soil in the sun was 140�,
+perhaps more, but I was afraid of bursting the thermometer, as it was
+graduated only a few degrees above that. This rain happened at the
+same time that the sun was directly overhead on his way south; it was
+but a quarter of an inch, but its effect was to deprive us of all
+chance of getting the five carriers we needed, all were off to their
+gardens to commit the precious seed to the soil. We got three, but no
+one else would come, so we have to remain here over to-day (30th
+October).
+
+_30th October, 1866._--The black traders come from Tette to this
+country to buy slaves, and as a consequence here we come to bugs
+again, which we left when we passed the Arab slave-traders' beat.
+
+_31st October, 1866._--We proceed westwards, and a little south
+through a country covered with forest trees, thickly planted, but
+small, generally of bark-cloth and gum-copal trees, masukos,
+rhododendrons, and a few acacias. At one place we saw ten wild hogs in
+a group, but no other animal, though marks of elephants, buffaloes,
+and other animals having been about in the wet season were very
+abundant. The first few miles were rather more scant of water than
+usual, but we came to the Leu�, a fine little stream with plenty of
+water sand from 20 to 30 yards wide; it is said by the people to flow
+away westwards into the Loangwa.
+
+_1st November 1866._--In the evening we made the Chigumokir�, a nice
+rivulet, where we slept, and the next morning we proceeded to Kangen�,
+whose village is situated on a mass of mountains, and to reach which
+we made more southing than we wished. Our appearance on the ascent of
+the hill caused alarm, and we were desired to wait till our spokesman
+had explained the unusual phenomenon of a white man.
+
+This kept us waiting in the hot sun among heated rocks, and the chief,
+being a great ugly public-house-keeper looking person, excused his
+incivility by saying that his brother had been killed by the Mazitu,
+and he was afraid that we were of the same tribe. On asking if Mazitu
+wore clothes like us he told some untruths, and, what has been an
+unusual thing, began to beg powder and other things. I told him how
+other chiefs had treated us, which made him ashamed. He represented
+the country in front to the N.W. to be quite impassable from want of
+food: the Mazitu had stripped it of all provisions, and the people
+were living on what wild fruits they could pick up.
+
+_2nd November, 1866._--Kangen� is very disagreeable naturally, and as
+we have to employ five men as carriers, we are in his power.
+
+We can scarcely enter into the feelings of those who are harried by
+marauders. Like Scotland in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries
+harassed by Highland Celts on one side and by English Marchmen on the
+other, and thus kept in the rearward of civilisation, these people
+have rest neither for many days nor for few. When they fill their
+garners they can seldom reckon on eating the grain, for the Mazitu
+come when the harvest is over and catch as many able-bodied young
+persons as they can to carry away the corn. Thus it was in Scotland so
+far as security for life and property was concerned; but the Scotch
+were apt pupils of more fortunate nations. To change of country they
+were as indifferent as the Romans of the olden times; they were always
+welcome in France, either as pilgrims, scholars, merchants, or
+soldiers; but the African is different. If let alone the African's
+mode of life is rather enjoyable; he loves agriculture, and land is to
+be had anywhere. He knows nothing of other countries, but he has
+imbibed the idea of property in man. This Kangen� told me that he
+would like to give me a slave to look after my goats: I believe he
+would rather give a slave than a goat!
+
+We were detained by the illness of Simon for four days. When he
+recovered we proposed to the headman to start with five of his men,
+and he agreed to let us have them; but having called them together
+such an enormous demand was made for wages, and in advance, that on
+the 7th of November we took seven loads forward through a level
+uninhabited country generally covered with small trees, slept there,
+and on the morning of the 8th, after leaving two men at our dep�t,
+came back, and took the remaining five loads.
+
+Kangen� was disagreeable to the last. He asked where we had gone,
+and, having described the turning point as near the hill Chimbimb�, he
+complimented us on going so far, and then sent an offer of three men;
+but I preferred not to have those who would have been spies unless he
+could give five and take on all the loads. He said that he would find
+the number, and after detaining us some hours brought two, one of
+whom, primed with beer, babbled out that he was afraid of being killed
+by us in front. I asked whom we had killed behind, and moved off. The
+headman is very childish, does women's work--cooking and pounding; and
+in all cases of that kind the people take after their leader. The
+chiefs have scarcely any power unless they are men of energy; they
+have to court the people rather than be courted. We came much further
+back on our way from Mapuio's than we liked; in fact, our course is
+like that of a vessel baffled with foul winds: this is mainly owing to
+being obliged to avoid places stripped of provisions or suffering this
+spoliation. The people, too, can give no information about others at a
+distance from their own abodes. Even the smiths, who are a most
+plodding set of workers, are as ignorant as the others: they supply
+the surrounding villages with hoes and knives, and, combining
+agriculture with handicraft, pass through life. An intelligent smith
+came as our guide from Chimbimb� Hill on the 7th, and did not know a
+range of mountains about twenty miles off: "it was too far off for him
+to know the name."
+
+_9th November, 1866._--The country over which we actually travel is
+level and elevated, but there are mountains all about, which when put
+on the map make it appear to be a mountainous region. We are on the
+watershed, apparently between the Loangwa of Zumbo on the west, and
+the Lake on the east. The Leu� or Leuia is said by the people to flow
+into the Loangwa. The Chigumokir� coming from the north in front,
+eastward of Irongw� (the same mountains on which Kangen� skulks out of
+sight of Mazitu), flows into the Leu�, and north of that we have the
+Mando, a little stream, flowing into the Bua. The rivulets on the west
+flow in deep defiles, and the elevation on which we travel makes it
+certain that no water can come from the lower lands on the west. It
+seems that the Portuguese in travelling to Casembe did not inquire of
+the people where the streams they crossed went, for they are often
+wrongly put, and indicate the direction only in which they appeared to
+be flowing at their crossing places. The natives have a good idea
+generally of the rivers into which the streams flow, though they are
+very deficient in information as to the condition of the people that
+live on their banks. Some of the Portuguese questions must have been
+asked through slaves, who would show no hesitation in answering.
+Maxinga, or Machinga, means "mountains" only; once or twice it is put
+down Saxa de Maxinga, or Machinga, or Mcanga, which translated from
+the native tongue means "rocks of mountains, or mountains of rocks."
+
+_10th November, 1866._--We found the people on the Mando to be Chawa
+or Ajawa, but not of the Waiyau race: they are Manganja, and this is a
+village of smiths. We got five men readily to go back and bring up our
+loads; and the sound of the hammer is constant, showing a great deal
+of industry. They combine agriculture, and hunting with nets, with
+their handicraft.
+
+A herd of buffaloes came near the village, and I went and shot one,
+thus procuring a supply of meat for the whole party and villagers too.
+The hammer which we hear from dawn till sunset is a large stone, bound
+with the strong inner bark of a tree, and loops left which form
+handles. Two pieces of bark form the tongs, and a big stone sunk into
+the ground the anvil. They make several hoes in a day, and the metal
+is very good; it is all from yellow haematite, which abounds all over
+this part of the country; the bellows consist of two goatskins with
+sticks at the open ends, which are opened and shut at every blast.
+
+[Illustration: Forging Hoes.]
+
+_13th November, 1866._--A lion came last night and gave a growl or two
+on finding he could not get our meat: a man had lent us a hunting net
+to protect it and us from intruders of this sort. The people kept up a
+shouting for hours afterwards, in order to keep him away by the human
+voice.
+
+We might have gone on, but I had a galled heel from new shoes. Wild
+figs are rather nice when quite ripe.
+
+_14th November, 1866._--We marched northwards round the end of Chisia
+Hill, and remained for the night at a blacksmith's, or rather
+founder's village; the two occupations of founder and smith are
+always united, and boys taught to be smiths in Europe or India would
+find themselves useless if unable to smelt the ore. A good portion of
+the trees of the country have been cut down for charcoal, and those
+which now spring up are small; certain fruit trees alone are left. The
+long slopes on the undulating country, clothed with fresh foliage,
+look very beautiful. The young trees alternate with patches of yellow
+grass not yet burned; the hills are covered with a thick mantle of
+small green trees with, as usual, large ones at intervals. The people
+at Kalumbi, on the Mando (where we spent four days), had once a
+stockade of wild fig _(Ficus Indica)_ and euphorbia round their
+village, which has a running rill on each side of it; but the trees
+which enabled them to withstand a siege by Mazitu fell before
+elephants and buffaloes during a temporary absence of the villagers;
+the remains of the stockade are all around it yet. Lions sometimes
+enter huts by breaking through the roof: elephants certainly do, for
+we saw a roof destroyed by one; the only chance for the inmates is to
+drive a spear into the belly of the beast while so engaged.
+
+A man came and reported the Mazitu to be at Chanyandula's village,
+where we are going. The headman advised remaining at his village till
+we saw whether they came this way or went by another path. The women
+were sent away, but the men went on with their employments; two
+proceeded with the building of a furnace on an anthill, where they are
+almost always placed, and they keep a look-out while working. We have
+the protection of an all-embracing Providence, and trust that He,
+whose care of His people �xceeds all that our utmost self-love can
+attain, will shield us and make our way prosperous.
+
+_16th November, 1866._--An elephant came near enough last night to
+scream at us, but passed on, warned, perhaps, by the shouting of the
+villagers not to meddle with man. No Mazitu having come, we marched on
+and crossed the Bua, eight yards wide and knee deep. It rises in the
+northern hills a little beyond Kanyindula's village, winds round his
+mountains, and away to the east. The scenery among the mountains is
+very lovely: they are covered with a close mantle of green, with here
+and there red and light-coloured patches, showing where grass has been
+burned off recently and the red clay soil is exposed; the lighter
+portions are unburned grass or rocks. Large trees are here more
+numerous, and give an agreeable change of contour to the valleys and
+ridges of the hills; the boughs of many still retain a tinge of red
+from young leaves. We came to the Bua again before reaching Kanyenj�,
+as Kanyindula's place is called. The iron trade must have been carried
+on for an immense time in the country, for one cannot go a quarter of
+a mile without meeting pieces of slag and broken pots, calcined pipes,
+and fragments of the furnaces, which are converted by the fire into
+brick. It is curious that the large stone sledge-hammers now in use
+are not called by the name stone-hammers, but by a distinct word,
+"kama:" nyundo is one made of iron.
+
+When we arrived at Kanyenj�, Kanyindula was out collecting charcoal.
+He sent a party of men to ask if we should remain next day: an old,
+unintellectual-looking man was among the number sent, who had
+twenty-seven rings of elephant's skin on his arm, all killed by
+himself by the spear alone: he had given up fighting elephants since
+the Mazitu came, whom we heard had passed away to the south-east of
+this place, taking all the crops of last year, and the chief alone has
+food. He gave us some, which was very acceptable, as we got none at
+the two villages south of this. Kanyindula came himself in the
+evening, an active, stern-looking man, but we got on very well with
+him.
+
+The people say that they were taught to smelt iron by Chisumpi, which
+is the name of Mulungu (God), and that they came from Lake Nyassa
+originally; if so, they are greatly inferior to the Manganja on the
+Lake in pottery, for the fragments, as well as modern whole vessels,
+are very coarse; the ornamentation is omitted or merely dots. They
+never heard of a�rolites, but know hail.
+
+I notice here that the tree Mfu, or M�, having sweet-scented leaves,
+yields an edible plum in clusters. Bua-bwa is another edible
+fruit-tree with palmated leaves.
+
+Mb�u is a climbing, arboraceous plant, and yields a very pleasant
+fruit, which tastes like gooseberries: its seeds are very minute.
+
+_18th and 19th November, 1866._--Rain fell heavily yesterday
+afternoon, and was very threatening to-day; we remain to sew a calico
+tent.
+
+_20th November, 1866._--Kanyindula came with three carriers this
+morning instead of five, and joined them in demanding prepayment: it
+was natural for him to side with them, as they have more power than he
+has, in fact, the chiefs in these parts all court their people, and he
+could feel more interest in them than in an entire stranger whom he
+might never see again: however, we came on without his people, leaving
+two to guard the loads.
+
+About four miles up the valley we came to a village named Kanyenjer�
+Mponda, at the fountain-eye of the Bua, and thence sent men back for
+the loads, while we had the shelter of good huts during a heavy
+thunder-shower, and made us willing to remain all night. The valley is
+lovely in the extreme. The mountains on each side are gently rounded,
+and, as usual, covered over with tree foliage, except where the red
+soil is exposed by recent grass-burnings. Quartz rocks jut out, and
+much drift of that material has been carried down by the gullies into
+the bottom. These gullies being in compact clay, the water has but
+little power of erosion, so they are worn deep but narrow. Some
+fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with haematite changed by heat,
+and magnetic, lay in the gully, which had worn itself a channel on
+the north side of the village. The Bua, like most African streams
+whose sources I have seen, rises in an oozing boggy spot. Another
+stream, the Tembw�, rises near the same spot, and flows N.W. into, the
+Loangwa. We saw Shuar� palms in its bed.
+
+_21st November, 1866._--We left Bua fountain, lat. 13� 40' south, and
+made a short march to Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the people
+refused to admit us till the headman, came. They have a little food
+here, and sold us some. We have been on rather short commons for some
+time, and this made our detention agreeable. We rose a little in
+altitude after leaving this morning, then, though in the same valley,
+made a little descent towards the N.N.W. High winds came driving over
+the eastern range, which is called Mchinj�, and bring large masses of
+clouds, which are the rain-givers. They seem to come from the
+south-east. The scenery of the valley is lovely and rich in the
+extreme. All the foliage is fresh washed and clean; young herbage is
+bursting through the ground; the air is deliciously cool, and the
+birds are singing joyfully: one, called Mzi�, is a good songster, with
+a loud melodious voice. Large game abounds, but we do not meet with
+it.
+
+We are making our way slowly to the north, where food is said to be
+abundant. I divided about 50 lbs. of powder among the people of my
+following to shoot with, and buy goats or other food as we could. This
+reduces our extra loads to three--four just now, Simon being sick
+again. He rubbed goat's-fat on a blistered surface, and caused an
+eruption of pimples.
+
+_Mem._--The people assent by lifting up the head instead of nodding it
+down as we do; deaf mutes are said to do the same.
+
+_22nd November, 1866._--Leaving Mokatoba village, and proceeding down
+the valley, which on the north is shut up apparently by a mountain
+called Kokw�, we crossed the Kasamba, about two miles from Mokatoba,
+and yet found it, though so near its source, four yards wide, and knee
+deep. Its source is about a mile above Mokatoba, in the same valley,
+with the Bua and Tembw�. We were told that elephants were near, and we
+saw where they had been an hour before; but after seeking about could
+not find them. An old man, in the deep defile between Kokw� and Yasika
+Mountains, pointed to the latter, and said, "Elephants! why, there
+they are. Elephants, or tusks, walking on foot are never absent;" but
+though we were eager for flesh, we could not give him credit, and went
+down the defile which gives rise to the Sandili River: where we
+crossed it in the defile, it was a mere rill, having large trees along
+its banks, yet it is said to go to the Loangwa of Zumbo, N.W. or
+N.N.W. We were now in fact upon the slope which inclines to that
+river, and made a rapid descent in altitude. We reached Silubi's
+village, on the base of a rocky detached hill. No food to be had; all
+taken by Mazitu, so Silubi gave me some Masuko fruit instead. They
+find that they can keep the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence,
+and hurling stones and arrows down on the invaders: they can defend
+themselves also by stockades, and these are becoming very general.
+
+On leaving Silubi's village, we went to a range of hills, and after
+passing through found that we had a comparatively level country on the
+north: it would be called a well-wooded country if we looked at it
+only from a distance. It is formed into long ridges, all green and
+wooded; but clumps of large trees, where villages have been, or are
+still situated, show that the sylvan foliage around and over the whole
+country is that of mere hop-poles. The whole of this upland region
+might be called woody, if we bear in mind that where the population is
+dense, and has been long undisturbed, the trees are cut down to the
+size of low bush. Large districts are kept to about the size of
+hop-poles, growing on pollards three or four feet from the ground, by
+charcoal burners, who, in all instances, are smiths too.
+
+On reaching Zeor�'s village, on the Lokuzhwa, we found it stockaded,
+and stagnant pools round three sides of it. The Mazitu had come,
+pillaged all the surrounding villages, looked at this, and then went
+away; so the people had food to sell. They here call themselves
+Ech�wa, and have a different marking from the Atumboka. The men have
+the hair dressed as if a number of the hairs of elephants' tails were
+stuck around the head: the women wear a small lip-ring, and a straw or
+piece of stick in the lower lip, which dangles down about level with
+the lower edge of the chin: their clothing in front is very scanty.
+The men know nothing of distant places, the Manganja being a very
+stay-at-home people. The stockades are crowded with huts, and the
+children have but small room to play in the narrow spaces between.
+
+_25th November, 1866._--Sunday at Zeor�'s. The villagers thought we
+prayed for rain, which was much needed. The cracks in the soil have
+not yet come together by the �welling of soil produced by moisture. I
+disabused their minds about rain-making prayers, and found the headman
+intelligent.
+
+I did not intend to notice the Lokuzhwa, it is such a contemptible
+little rill, and not at present running; but in going to our next
+point, Mpand�'s village, we go along its valley, and cross it several
+times, as it makes for the Loangwa in the north. The valley is of rich
+dark red loam, and so many lilies of the Amaryllis kind have
+established themselves as completely to mask the colour of the soil.
+They form a covering of pure white where the land has been cleared by
+the hoe. As we go along this valley to the Loangwa, we descend in
+altitude. It is said to rise at "Nomb� rum�," as we formerly heard.
+
+_27th November, 1866._--Zeor�'s people would not carry without
+prepayment, so we left our extra loads as usual and went on, sending
+men back for them: these, however, did not come till 27th, and then
+two of my men got fever. I groan in spirit, and do not know how to
+make our gear into nine loads only. It is the knowledge that we shall
+be detained, some two or three months during the heavy rains that
+makes me cleave to it as means of support.
+
+Advantage has been taken by the people, of spots where the Lokuzhwa
+goes round three parts of a circle, to erect their stockaded villages.
+This is the case here, and the water, being stagnant, engenders
+disease. The country abounds in a fine light blue flowering perennial
+pea, which the people make use of as a relish. At present the blossoms
+only are collected and boiled. On inquiring the name, _chil�b�_, the
+men asked me if we had none in our country. On replying in the
+negative, they looked with pity on us: "What a wretched, country not
+to have chil�b�." It is on the highlands above; we never saw it
+elsewhere! Another species of pea _(Chilob� Weza)_, with reddish
+flowers, is eaten in the same way; but it has spread but little in
+comparison. It is worth remarking that porridge of maize or sorghum is
+never offered without some pulse, beans, or bean leaves, or flowers,
+they seem to feel the need of it, or of pulse, which is richer in
+flesh-formers than the porridge.
+
+Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was followed by several
+half-suppressed screams by a woman. They were quite _eldritch_, as if
+she could not get them out. Then succeeded a lot of utterances as if
+she were in ecstasy, to which a man responded, "Moio, moio." The
+utterances, so far as I could catch, were in five-syllable
+snatches--abrupt and laboured. I wonder if this "bubbling or boiling
+over" has been preserved as the form in which the true prophets of old
+gave forth their "burdens"? One sentence, frequently repeated towards
+the close of the effusion, was "_linyama uta_," "flesh of the bow,"
+showing that the Pythoness loved venison killed by the bow. The people
+applauded, and attended, hoping, I suppose, that rain would follow her
+efforts. Next day she was duly honoured by drumming and dancing.[35]
+
+Prevalent beliefs seem to be persistent in certain tribes. That
+strange idea of property in man that permits him to be sold to another
+is among the Arabs, Manganja, Makoa, Waiyau, but not among Kaffirs or
+Zulus, and Bechuanas. If we exclude the Arabs, two families of
+Africans alone are slavers on the east side of the Continent.
+
+_30th November, 1866._--We march to Chilunda's or Embora's, still on
+the Lokuzhwa, now a sand-stream about twenty yards wide, with pools in
+its bed; its course is pretty much north or N.N.W. We are now near the
+Loangwa country, covered with a dense dwarf forest, and the people
+collected in stockades. This village is on a tongue of land (between
+Lokuzhwa and another sluggish rivulet), chosen for its strength. It is
+close to a hill named Chipemba, and there are ranges of hills both
+east and west in the distance. Embora came to visit us soon after we
+arrived--a tall man with a Yankee face. He was very much tickled when
+asked if he were a Motumboka. After indulging in laughter at the idea
+of being one of such a small tribe of Manganja, he said proudly, "That
+he belonged to the Ech�wa, who inhabited all the country to which I
+was going." They are generally smiths; a mass of iron had just been
+brought in to him from some outlying furnaces. It is made into hoes,
+which are sold for native cloths down the Loangwa.
+
+_3rd December, 1866._--March through a hilly country covered with
+dwarf forest to Kand�'s village, still on the Lokuzhwa. We made some
+westing. The village was surrounded by a dense hedge of bamboo and a
+species of bushy fig that loves edges of water-bearing streams: it is
+not found where the moisture is not perennial. Kand� is a fine tall
+smith; I asked him if he knew his antecedents; he said he had been
+bought by Babisa at Chip�ta, and left at Chilunda's, and therefore
+belonged to no one. Two Waiyau now volunteered to go on with us, and
+as they declared their masters were killed by the Mazitu, and Kand�
+seemed to confirm them, we let them join. In general, runaway slaves
+are bad characters, but these two seem good men, and we want them to
+fill up our complement: another volunteer we employ as goatherd.
+
+A continuous tap-tapping in the villages shows that bark cloth is
+being made. The bark, on being removed from the-tree, is steeped in
+water, or in a black muddy hole, till the outer of the two inner barks
+can be separated, then commences the tapping with a mallet to separate
+and soften the fibres. The head of this is often of ebony, with the
+face cut into small furrows, which, without breaking, separate and
+soften the fibres.
+
+[Illustration.]
+
+_4th December, 1866._--Marched westwards, over a hilly, dwarf
+forest-covered country: as we advanced, trees increased in size, but
+no people inhabited it; we spent a miserable night at Kat�tt�, wetted
+by a heavy thunder-shower, which lasted a good while. Morning _(5th
+December_) muggy, clouded all over, and rolling thunder in distance.
+Went three hours with, for a wonder, no water, but made westing
+chiefly, and got on to the Lokuzhwa again: all the people are
+collected on it.
+
+_6th December, 1866._--Too ill to march.
+
+_7th December, 1866._--Went on, and passed Mesumb�'s village, also
+protected by bamboos, and came to the hill Mparaw�, with a village
+perched on its northern base and well up its sides. The Babisa have
+begun to imitate the Mazitu by attacking and plundering Manganja
+villages. Muasi's brother was so attacked, and now is here and eager
+to attack in return. In various villages we have observed miniature
+huts, about two feet high, very neatly thatched and plastered, here we
+noticed them in dozens. On inquiring, we were told that when a child
+or relative dies one is made, and when any pleasant food is cooked or
+beer brewed, a little is placed in the tiny hut for the departed soul,
+which is believed to enjoy it.
+
+The Lokuzhwa is here some fifty yards wide, and running. Numerous
+large pitholes in the fine-grained schist in its bed show that much
+water has flowed in it.
+
+_8th December, 1866._--A kind of bean called "chitetta" is eaten here,
+it is an old acquaintance in the Bechuana country, where it is called
+"mositsan�," and is a mere plant; here it becomes a tree, from fifteen
+to twenty feet high. The root is used for tanning; the bean is
+pounded, and then put into a sieve of bark cloth to extract, by
+repeated washings, the excessively astringent matter it contains.
+Where the people have plenty of water, as here, it is used copiously
+in various processes, among Bechuanas it is scarce, and its many uses
+unknown: the pod becomes from fifteen to eighteen inches long, and an
+inch in diameter.
+
+_9th December, 1866._--A poor child, whose mother had died, was
+unprovided for; no one not a relative will nurse another's child. It
+called out piteously for its mother by name, and the women (like the
+servants in the case of the poet Cowper when a child), said, "She is
+coming." I gave it a piece of bread, but it was too far gone, and is
+dead to-day.
+
+An alarm of Mazitu sent all the villagers up the sides of Mparaw�
+this morning. The affair was a chase of a hyaena, but everything is
+Mazitu! The Babisa came here, but were surrounded and nearly all cut
+off. Muasi was so eager to be off with a party to return the attack on
+the Mazitu, that, when deputed by the headman to give us a guide, he
+got the man to turn at the first village, so we had to go on without
+guides, and made about due north.
+
+_11th December, 1866._--We are now detained in the forest, at a place
+called Chond� Forest, by set-in rains. It rains every day, and
+generally in the afternoon; but the country is not wetted till the
+"set-in" rains commence; the cracks in the soil then fill up and
+everything rushes up with astonishing rapidity; the grass is quite
+crisp and soft. After the fine-grained schist, we came on granite with
+large flakes of talc in it. This forest is of good-sized trees, many
+of them mopan�. The birds now make much melody and noise--all intent
+on building.
+
+_12th December, 1866._--Across an undulating forest country north we
+got a man to show us the way, if a pathless forest can so be called.
+We used a game-path as long as it ran north, but left it when it
+deviated, and rested under a baobab-tree with a marabou's nest--a
+bundle of sticks on a branch; the young ones uttered a hard chuck,
+chuck, when the old ones flew over them. A sun-bird, with bright
+scarlet throat and breast, had its nest on another branch, it was
+formed like the weaver's nest, but without a tube. I observed the dam
+picking out insects from the bark and leaves of the baobab, keeping on
+the wing the while: it would thus appear to be insectivorous as well
+as a honey-bibber. Much spoor of elands, zebras, gnus, kamas, pallahs,
+buffaloes, reed-bucks, with tsetse, their parasites.
+
+_13th December, 1866._--Reached the Tokosusi, which is said to rise at
+Nomb� Rum�, about twenty yards wide and knee deep, swollen by the
+rains: it had left a cake of black tenacious mud on its banks. Here I
+got a pallah antelope, and a very strange flower called "katend�,"
+which was a whorl of seventy-two flowers sprung from a flat, round
+root; but it cannot be described. Our guide would have crossed the
+Tokosusi, which was running north-west to join the Loangwa, and then
+gone to that river; but always when we have any difficulty the
+"lazies" exhibit themselves. We had no grain; and three remained
+behind spending four hours at what we did in an hour and a quarter.
+Our guide became tired and turned, not before securing another; but he
+would not go over the Loangwa; no one likes to go out of his own
+country: he would go westwards to Maranda's, and nowhere else. A
+"set-in" rain came on after dark, and we went on through slush, the
+trees sending down heavier drops than the showers as we neared the
+Loangwa; we forded several deep gullies, all flowing north or
+north-west into it. The paths were running with water, and when we
+emerged from the large Mopan� Forest, we came on the plain of
+excessively adhesive mud, on which Maranda's stronghold stands on the
+left bank of Loangwa, here a good-sized river. The people were all
+afraid of us, and we were mortified to find that food is scarce. The
+Mazitu have been here three times, and the fear they have inspired,
+though they were successfully repelled, has prevented agricultural
+operations from being carried on.
+
+_Mem._--A flake of reed is often used in surgical operations among the
+natives, as being sharper than their knives.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[34] A cloth means two yards of unbleached calico.
+
+[35] Chuma remembers part of the words of her song to be as follows:--
+
+Kow�! kow�! n'andambwi, M'vula l�ru, korol� ko okw�, Waie, ona, kordi,
+mvula!
+
+He cannot translate it as it is pure Manganja, but with the exception
+of the first line--which relates to a little song-bird with a
+beautiful note, it is a mere reiteration "rain will surely come
+to-day."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great
+    hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats.
+    Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again.
+    Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the
+    great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out.
+    Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambez�. Death of
+    Chitan�. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine
+    chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambez�. Beaches
+    Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off
+    letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications.
+
+
+_16th December, 1866._--We could get no food at any price on 15th, so
+we crossed the Loangwa, and judged it to be from seventy to a hundred
+yards wide: it is deep at present, and it must always be so, for some
+Atumboka submitted to the Mazitu, and ferried them over and back
+again. The river is said to rise in the north; it has alluvial banks
+with large forest trees along them, bottom sandy, and great sandbanks
+are in it like the Zambesi. No guide would come, so we went on without
+one. The "lazies" of the party seized the opportunity of remaining
+behind--wandering, as they said, though all the cross paths were
+marked.[36] This evening we secured the latitude 12� 40' 48" S., which
+would make our crossing place about 12� 45' S. Clouds prevented
+observations, as they usually do in the rainy season.
+
+_17 December, 1866._--We went on through a bushy country without
+paths, and struck the Pamazi, a river of sixty yards wide, in steep
+banks and in flood, and held on as well as we could through a very
+difficult country, the river forcing us north-west: I heard
+hippopotami in it. Game is abundant but wild; we shot two poku
+antelopes[37] here, called "ts�bulas," which drew a hunter to us, who
+consented for meat and pay to show us a ford. He said that the Pamazi
+rises in a range of mountains we can now see (in general we could see
+no high ground during our marches for the last fortnight), we forded
+it, thigh deep on one side and breast deep on the other. We made only
+about three miles of northing, and found the people on the left bank
+uncivil: they would not lend a hut, so we soon put up a tent of
+waterproof cloth and branches.
+
+_18th December, 1866._--As the men grumbled at their feet being
+pierced by thorns in the trackless portions we had passed I was
+anxious to get a guide, but the only one we could secure would go to
+Molenga's only; so I submitted, though this led us east instead of
+north. When we arrived we were asked what we wanted, seeing we brought
+neither slaves nor ivory: I replied it was much against our will that
+we came; but the guide had declared that this was the only way to
+Casembe's, our next stage. To get rid of us they gave a guide, and we
+set forward northwards. The Mopan� Forest is perfectly level, and
+after rains the water stands in pools; but during most of the year it
+is dry. The trees here were very large, and planted some twenty or
+thirty yards apart: as there are no branches on their lower parts
+animals see very far. I shot a gnu, but wandered in coming back to the
+party, and did not find them till it was getting dark. Many parts of
+the plain are thrown up into heaps, of about the size of one's cap
+(probably by crabs), which now, being hard, are difficult to walk
+over; under the trees it is perfectly smooth. The Mopan�-tree
+furnishes the iron wood of the Portuguese Pao Ferro: it is pretty to
+travel in and look at the bright sunshine of early morning; but the
+leaves hang perpendicularly as the sun rises high, and afford little
+or no shade through the day,[38] so as the land is clayey, it becomes
+hard-baked thereby.
+
+We observed that the people had placed corn-granaries at
+different parts of this forest, and had been careful to leave no
+track to them--a provision in case of further visits of Mazitu.
+King-hunters[39] abound, and make the air resound with their
+stridulous notes, which commence with a sharp, shrill cheep, and then
+follows a succession of notes, which resembles a pea in a whistle.
+Another bird is particularly conspicuous at present by its chattering
+activity, its nest consists of a bundle of fine seed-stalks of grass
+hung at the end of a branch, the free ends being left untrimmed, and
+no attempt at concealment made. Many other birds are now active, and
+so many new notes are heard, that it is probable this is a richer
+ornithological region than the Zambesi. Guinea-fowl and francolins are
+in abundance, and so indeed are all the other kinds of game, as
+zebras, pallahs, gnus.
+
+_19th December, 1866._--I got a fine male kudu. We have no grain, and
+live on meat alone, but I am better off than the men, inasmuch as I
+get a little goat's-milk besides. The kudu stood five feet six inches
+high; horns, three feet on the straight.
+
+_20th December, 1866._--Reached Casembe,[40] a miserable hamlet of a
+few huts. The people here are very suspicious, and will do nothing but
+with a haggle for prepayment; we could get no grain, nor even native
+herbs, though we rested a day to try.
+
+After a short march we came to the Nyamazi, another considerable
+rivulet coming from the north to fall into the Loangwa. It has the
+same character, of steep alluvial banks, as Pamazi, and about the same
+width, but much shallower; loin deep, though somewhat swollen; from
+fifty to sixty yards wide. We came to some low hills, of coarse
+sandstone, and on crossing these we could see, by looking back, that
+for many days we had been travelling over a perfectly level valley,
+clothed with a mantle of forest. The barometers had shown no
+difference of level from about 1800 feet above the sea. We began our
+descent into this great valley when we left the source of the Bua; and
+now these low hills, called Ngal� or Ngaloa, though only 100 feet or
+so above the level we had left, showed that we had come to the shore
+of an ancient lake, which probably was let off when the rent of
+Kebra-basa on the Zambesi was made, for we found immense banks of
+well-rounded shingle above--or, rather, they may be called mounds of
+shingle--all of hard silicious schist with a few pieces of fossil-wood
+among them. The gullies reveal a stratum of this well-rounded shingle,
+lying on a soft greenish sandstone, which again lies on the coarse
+sandstone first observed. This formation is identical with that
+observed formerly below the Victoria Falls. We have the mountains
+still on our north and north-west (the so-called mountains of Bisa, or
+Babisa), and from them the Nyamazi flows, while Pamazi comes round the
+end, or what appears to be the end, of the higher portion. _(22nd
+December, 1866.)_ Shot a bush-buck; and slept on the left bank of
+Nyamazi.
+
+_23rd December, 1866._--Hunger sent us on; for a meat diet is far from
+satisfying: we all felt very weak on it, and soon tired on a march,
+but to-day we hurried on to Kavimba, who successfully beat off the
+Mazitu. It is very hot, and between three and four hours is a good
+day's march. On sitting down to rest before entering the village we
+were observed, and all the force of the village issued to kill us as
+Mazitu, but when we stood up the mistake was readily perceived, and
+the arrows were placed again in their quivers. In the hut four Mazitu
+shields show that they did not get it all their own way; they are
+miserable imitations of Zulu shields, made of eland and water-buck's
+hides, and ill sewn.
+
+A very small return present was made by Kavimba, and nothing could be
+bought except at exorbitant prices. We remained all day on the 24th
+haggling and trying to get some grain. He took a fancy to a shirt, and
+left it to his wife to bargain for. She got the length of cursing and
+swearing, and we bore it, but could get only a small price for it. We
+resolved to hold our Christmas some other day, and in a better place.
+The women seem ill-regulated here--Kavimba's brother had words with
+his spouse, and at the end of every burst of vociferation on both
+sides called out, "Bring the Muavi! bring the Muavi!" or ordeal.
+
+_Christmas-day, 1866._--No one being willing to guide us to Moerwa's,
+I hinted to Kavimba that should we see a rhinoceros I would kill it.
+He came himself, and led us on where he expected to find these
+animals, but we saw only their footsteps. We lost our four goats
+somewhere--stolen or strayed in the pathless forest, we do not know
+which, but the loss I felt very keenly, for whatever kind of food we
+had, a little milk made all right, and I felt strong and well, but
+coarse food hard of digestion without it was very trying. We spent the
+26th in searching for them, but all in vain. Kavimba had a boy
+carrying two huge elephant spears, with these he attacks that large
+animal single-handed. We parted from him, as I thought, good friends,
+but a man who volunteered to act as guide saw him in the forest
+afterwards, and was counselled by him to leave us as we should not
+pay him. This hovering near us after we parted makes me suspect
+Kavimba of taking the goats, but I am not certain. The loss affected
+me more than I could have imagined. A little indigestible porridge, of
+scarcely any taste, is now my fare, and it makes me dream of better.
+
+_27th December, 1866._--Our guide asked for his cloth to wear on the
+way, as it was wet and raining, and his bark cloth was a miserable
+covering. I consented, and he bolted on the first opportunity; the
+forest being so dense he was soon out of reach of pursuit: he had been
+advised to this by Kavimba, and nothing else need have been expected.
+We then followed the track of a travelling party of Babisa, but the
+grass springs up over the paths, and it was soon lost: the rain had
+fallen early in these parts, and the grass was all in seed. In the
+afternoon we came to the hills in the north where Nyamazi rises, and
+went up the bed of a rivulet for some time, and then ascended out of
+the valley. At the bottom of the ascent and in the rivulet the shingle
+stratum was sometimes fifty feet thick, then as we ascended we met
+mica schist tilted on edge, then grey gneiss, and last an igneous trap
+among quartz rocks, with a great deal of bright mica and talc in them.
+On resting near the top of the first ascent two honey hunters came to
+us. They were using the honey-guide as an aid, the bird came to us as
+they arrived, waited quietly during the half-hour they smoked and
+chatted, and then went on with them.[41]
+
+The tsetse flies, which were very numerous at the bottom, came up the
+ascent with us, but as we increased our altitude by another thousand
+feet they gradually dropped off and left us: only one remained in the
+evening, and he seemed out of spirits. Near sunset we encamped by
+water on the cool height, and made our shelters with boughs of leafy
+trees; mine was rendered perfect by Dr. Stenhouse's invaluable patent
+cloth, which is very superior to mackintosh: indeed the india-rubber
+cloth is not to be named in the same day with it.
+
+_28th December, 1866._--Three men, going to hunt bees, came to us as
+we were starting and assured us that Moerwa's was near. The first
+party had told us the same thing, and so often have we gone long
+distances as "_pafupi_" (near), when in reality they were "_patari_"
+(far), that we begin to think _pafupi_ means "I wish you to go there,"
+and _patari_ the reverse. In this case _near_ meant an hour and
+three-quarters from our sleeping-place to Moerwa's!
+
+When we look back from the height to which we have ascended we see a
+great plain clothed with dark green forest except at the line of
+yellowish grass, where probably the Loangwa flows. On the east and
+south-east this plain is bounded at the extreme range of our vision by
+a wall of dim blue mountains forty or fifty miles off. The Loangwa is
+said to rise in the Chibal� country due north of this Malambw� (in
+which district Moerwa's village is situated), and to flow S.E., then
+round to where we found it.
+
+Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man, though he has
+a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, and tried the usual little
+arts of getting us to buy all we need here though the prices are
+exorbitant. "No people in front, great hunger there." "We must buy
+food here and carry it to support us." On asking the names of the next
+headman he would not inform me, till I told him to try and speak like
+a man; he then told us that the first Lobemba chief was Motuna, and
+the next Chafunga. We have nothing, as we saw no animals in our way
+hither, and hunger is ill to bear. By giving Moerwa a good large cloth
+he was induced to cook a mess of ma�re or millet and elephant's
+stomach; it was so good to get a full meal that I could have given
+him another cloth, and the more so as it was accompanied by a message
+that he would cook more next day and in larger quantity. On inquiring
+next evening he said "the man had told lies," he had cooked nothing
+more: he was prone to lie himself, and was a rather bad specimen of a
+chief.
+
+The Babisa have round bullet heads, snub noses, often high
+cheek-bones, an upward slant of the eyes, and look as if they had a
+lot of Bushman blood in them, and a good many would pass for Bushmen
+or Hottentots. Both Babisa and Waiyau may have a mixture of the race,
+which would account for their roving habits. The women have the
+fashion of exposing the upper part of the buttocks by letting a very
+stiff cloth fall down behind. Their teeth are filed to points, they
+wear no lip-ring, and the hair is parted so as to lie in a net at the
+back part of the head. The mode of salutation among the men is to lie
+down nearly on the back, clapping the hands, and making a rather
+inelegant half-kissing sound with the lips.
+
+_29th December, 1866._--We remain a day at Malambw�, but get nothing
+save a little ma�re,[42] which grates in the teeth and in the stomach.
+To prevent the Mazitu starving them they cultivate small round patches
+placed at wide intervals in the forest, with which the country is
+covered. The spot, some ten yards or a little more in diameter, is
+manured with ashes and planted with this millet and pumpkins, in order
+that should Mazitu come they may be unable to carry off the pumpkins,
+or gather the millet, the seed of which is very small. They have no
+more valour than the other Africans, but more craft, and are much
+given to falsehood. They will not answer common questions except by
+misstatements, but this may arise in our case from our being in
+disfavour, because we will not sell all our goods to them for ivory.
+
+_30th December, 1866._--Marched for Chitemba's, because it is said he
+has not fled from the Mazitu, and therefore has food to spare. While
+resting, Moerwa, with all his force of men, women, and dogs, came up,
+on his way to hunt elephants. The men were furnished with big spears,
+and their dogs are used to engage the animal's attention while they
+spear it; the women cook the meat and make huts, and a smith goes with
+them to mend any spear that may be broken.
+
+We pass over level plateaux on which the roads are wisely placed, and
+do not feel that we are travelling in a mountainous region. It is all
+covered with dense forest, which in many cases is pollarded, from
+being cut for bark cloth or for hunting purposes. Masuko fruit
+abounds. From the cisalpinae and gum-copal trees bark cloth is made.
+
+We now come to large masses of haematite, which is often ferruginous:
+there is conglomerate too, many quartz pebbles being intermixed. It
+seems as if when the lakes existed in the lower lands, the higher
+levels gave forth great quantities of water from chalybeate fountains,
+which deposited this iron ore. Grey granite or quartz with talc in it
+or gneiss lie under the haematite.
+
+The forest resounds with singing birds, intent on nidification.
+Francolins abound, but are wild. "Whip-poor-wills," and another bird,
+which has a more laboured treble note and voice--"Oh, oh, oh!" Gay
+flowers blush unseen, but the people have a good idea of what is
+eatable and what not. I looked at a woman's basket of leaves which she
+had collected for supper, and it contained eight or ten kinds, with
+mushrooms and orchidaceous flowers. We have a succession of showers
+to-day, from N.E. and E.N.E. We are uncertain when we shall come to a
+village, as the Babisa will not tell us where they are situated. In
+the evening we encamped beside a little rill, and made our shelters,
+but we had so little to eat that I dreamed the night long of dinners I
+had eaten, and might have been eating.
+
+I shall make this beautiful land better known, which is an essential
+part of the process by which it will become the "pleasant haunts of
+men." It is impossible to describe its rich luxuriance, but most of it
+is running to waste through the slave-trade and internal wars.
+
+_31st December, 1866._--When we started this morning after rain, all
+the trees and grass dripping, a lion roared, but we did not see him. A
+woman had come a long way and built a neat miniature hut in the
+burnt-out ruins of her mother's house: the food-offering she placed in
+it, and the act of filial piety, no doubt comforted this poor
+mourner's heart!
+
+We arrived at Chitembo's village and found it deserted. The Babisa
+dismantle their huts and carry off the thatch to their gardens, where
+they live till harvest is over. This fallowing of the framework
+destroys many insects, but we observed that wherever Babisa and Arab
+slavers go they leave the breed of the domestic bug: it would be well
+if that were all the ill they did! Chitembo was working in his garden
+when we arrived, but soon came, and gave us the choice of all the
+standing huts: he is an old man, much more frank and truthful than our
+last headman, and says that Chitapanga is paramount chief of all the
+Abemba.
+
+Three or four women whom we saw performing a rain dance at Moerwa's
+were here doing the same; their faces smeared with meal, and axes in
+their hands, imitating as well as they could the male voice. I got
+some ma�re or millet here and a fowl.
+
+We now end 1866. It has not been so fruitful or useful as I intended.
+Will try to do better in 1867, and be better--more gentle and loving;
+and may the Almighty, to whom I commit my way, bring my desires to
+pass, and prosper me! Let all the sins of '66 be blotted out for
+Jesus' sake.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_1st January, 1867._--May He who was full of grace and truth impress
+His character on mine. Grace--eagerness to show favour;
+truth--truthfulness, sincerity, honour--for His mercy's sake.
+
+We remain to-day at Mbulukuta-Chitembo's district, by the boys'
+desire, because it is New Year's day, and also because we can get some
+food.
+
+_2nd and 3rd January, 1867._--Remain on account of a threatened
+_set-in_ rain. Bought a senz� _(Aulocaudatus Swindernianus)_, a
+rat-looking animal; but I was glad to get anything in the shape of
+meat.
+
+_4th January, 1867._--It is a _set-in_ rain. The boiling-point
+thermometer shows an altitude of 3565 feet above the sea. Barometer,
+3983 feet ditto. We get a little ma�re here, and prefer it to being
+drenched and our goods spoiled. We have neither sugar nor salt, so
+there are no soluble goods; but cloth and gunpowder get damaged
+easily. It is hard fare and scanty; I feel always hungry, and am
+constantly dreaming of better food when I should be sleeping. Savoury
+viands of former times come vividly up before the imagination, even in
+my waking hours; this is rather odd as I am not a dreamer; indeed I
+scarcely ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually so.[43]
+
+We are on the northern brim (or north-western rather) of the great
+Loangwa Valley we lately crossed: the rain coming from the east
+strikes it, and is deposited both above and below, while much of the
+valley itself is not yet well wetted. Here all the grasses have run up
+to seed, and yet they are not more than two feet or so in the
+seed-stalks. The pasturage is very fine. The people employ these
+continuous or _set-in_ rains for hunting the elephant, which gets
+bogged, and sinks in from fifteen to eighteen inches in soft mud,
+then even he, the strong one, feels it difficult to escape.[44]
+
+_5th January, 1867._--Still storm-stayed. We shall be off as soon as
+we get a fair day and these heavy rains cease.
+
+_6th January, 1867._--After service two men came and said that they
+were going to Lobemba, and would guide us to Motuna's village; another
+came a day or two ago, but he had such a villainous look we all shrank
+from him. These men's faces pleased us, but they did not turn out all
+we expected, for they guided us away westwards without a path: it was
+a drizzling rain, and this made us averse to striking off in the
+forest without them. No inhabitants now except at wide intervals, and
+no animals either. In the afternoon we came to a deep ravine full of
+gigantic timber trees and bamboos, with the Mavoch� River at the
+bottom. The dampness had caused the growth of lichens all over the
+trees, and the steep descent was so slippery that two boys fell, and
+he who carried the chronometers, twice: this was a misfortune, as it
+altered the rates, as was seen by the first comparison of them
+together in the evening. No food at Motuna's village, yet the headman
+tried to extort two fathoms of calico on the ground that he was owner
+of the country: we offered to go out of his village and make our own
+sheds on "God's land," that is, where it is uncultivated, rather than
+have any words about it: he then begged us to stay. A very high
+mountain called Chikokw� appeared W.S.W. from this village; the people
+who live on it are called Matumba; this part is named Lokumbi, but
+whatever the name, all the people are Babisa, the dependants of the
+Babemba, reduced by their own slaving habits to a miserable jungly
+state. They feed much on wild fruits, roots, and leaves; and yet are
+generally plump. They use a wooden hoe for sowing their ma�re, it is
+a sort of V-shaped implement, made from a branch with another
+springing out of it, about an inch in diameter at the sharp point, and
+with it they claw the soil after scattering the seed; about a dozen
+young men were so employed in the usual small patches as we passed in
+the morning.
+
+The country now exhibits the extreme of leafiness and the undulations
+are masses of green leaves; as far as the eye can reach with
+distinctness it rests on a mantle of that hue, and beyond the scene
+becomes dark blue. Near at hand many gay flowers peep out. Here and
+there the scarlet martag�n (_Lilium chalcedonicum_), bright blue or
+yellow gingers; red, orange, yellow, and pure white orchids; pale
+lobelias, &c.; but they do not mar the general greenness. As we
+ascended higher on the plateau, grasses, which have pink and reddish
+brown seed-vessels imparted distinct shades of their colours to the
+lawns, and were grateful to the eye. We turned aside early in our
+march to avoid being wetted by rains, and took shelter in some old
+Babisa sheds; these, when the party is a slaving one, are built so as
+to form a circle, with but one opening: a ridge pole, or rather a
+succession of ridge poles, form one long shed all round, with no
+partitions in the roof-shaped hut.
+
+On the _9th of January_ we ascended a hardened sandstone range. Two
+men who accompanied our guide called out every now and then to attract
+the attention of the honey-guide, but none appeared. A water-buck had
+been killed and eaten at one spot, the ground showing marks of a
+severe struggle, but no game was to be seen. Buffaloes and elephants
+come here at certain seasons; at present they have migrated elsewhere.
+The valleys are very beautiful: the oozes are covered with a species
+of short wiry grass, which gives the valleys the appearance of
+well-kept gentlemen's parks; but they are full of water to
+overflowing--immense sponges in fact;--and one has to watch carefully
+in crossing them to avoid plunging into deep water-holes, made by the
+feet of elephants or buffaloes. In the ooze generally the water comes
+half-way up the shoe, and we go plash, plash, plash, in the lawn-like
+glade. There are no people here now in these lovely wild valleys; but
+to-day we came to mounds made of old for planting grain, and slag from
+iron furnaces. The guide was rather offended because he did not get
+meat and meal, though he is accustomed to leaves at home, and we had
+none to give except by wanting ourselves: he found a mess without much
+labour in the forest. My stock of meal came to an end to-day, but
+Simon gave me some of his. It is not the unpleasantness of eating
+unpalatable food that teases one, but we are never satisfied; I could
+brace myself to dispose of a very unsavoury mess, and think no more
+about it; but this ma�re engenders a craving which plagues day and
+night incessantly.
+
+_10th January, 1867._--We crossed the Muasi, flowing strongly to the
+east to the Loangwa River.
+
+In the afternoon an excessively heavy thunderstorm wetted us all to
+the skin before any shelter could be made. Two of our men wandered,
+and other two remained behind lost, as our track was washed out by the
+rains. The country is a succession of enormous waves, all covered with
+jungle, and no traces of paths; we were in a hollow, and our firing
+was not heard till this morning, when we ascended a height and were
+answered. I am thankful that up one was lost, for a man might wander a
+long time before reaching a village. Simon gave me a little more of
+his meal this morning, and went without himself: I took my belt up
+three holes to relieve hunger. We got some wretched wild fruit like
+that called "jambos" in India, and at midday reached the village of
+Chafunga. Famine here too, but some men had killed an elephant and
+came to sell the dried meat: it was high, and so were their prices;
+but we are obliged to give our best from this craving hunger.
+
+_12th January, 1867._--Sitting down this morning near a tree my head
+was just one yard off a good-sized cobra, coiled up in the sprouts at
+its root, but it was benumbed with cold: a very pretty little
+puff-adder lay in the path, also benumbed; it is seldom that any harm
+is done by these reptiles here, although it is different in India. We
+bought up all the food we could get; but it did not suffice for the
+marches we expect to make to get to the Chambez�, where food is said
+to be abundant, we were therefore again obliged to travel on Sunday.
+We had prayers before starting; but I always feel that I am not doing
+fight, it lessens the sense of obligation in the minds of my
+companions; but I have no choice. We went along a rivulet till it
+ended in a small lake, Mapampa or Chimbw�, about five miles long, and
+one and a half broad. It had hippopotami, and the poku fed on its
+banks.
+
+_15th January, 1867._--We had to cross the Chimbw� at its eastern end,
+where it is fully a mile wide. The guide refused to show another and
+narrower ford up the stream, which emptied into it from the east; and
+I, being the first to cross, neglected to give orders about the poor
+little dog, Chitan�. The water was waist deep, the bottom soft peaty
+stuff with deep holes in it, and the northern side infested by
+leeches. The boys were--like myself--all too much engaged with
+preserving their balance to think of the spirited little beast, and he
+must have swam till he sunk. He was so useful in keeping all the
+country curs off our huts; none dare to approach and steal, and he
+never stole himself. He shared the staring of the people with his
+master, then in the march he took charge of the whole party, running
+to the front, and again to the rear, to see that all was right. He was
+becoming yellowish-red in colour; and, poor thing, perished in what
+the boys all call Chitan�'s water.
+
+_16th January, 1867._--March through the mountains, which are of
+beautiful white and pink dolomite, scantily covered with upland trees
+and vegetation. The rain, as usual, made us halt early, and wild
+fruits helped to induce us to stay.
+
+In one place we lighted on a party of people living on Masuko fruit,
+and making mats of the Shuar�[45] palm petioles. We have hard lines
+ourselves; nothing but a little ma�re porridge and dampers. We roast a
+little grain, and boil it, to make believe it is coffee. The guide, a
+maundering fellow, turned because he was not fed better than at home,
+and because he knew that but for his obstinacy we should not have lost
+the dog. It is needless to repeat that it is all forest on the
+northern slopes of the mountains--open glade and miles of forest;
+ground at present all sloppy; oozes full and overflowing--feet
+constantly wet. Rivulets rush strongly with _clear_ water, though they
+are in flood: we can guess which are perennial and which mere torrents
+that dry up; they flow northwards and westwards to the Chambez�.
+
+_17th January, 1867._--Detained in an old Babisa slaving encampment by
+set-in rain till noon, then set off in the midst of it. Came to hills
+of dolomite, but all the rocks were covered with white lichens
+(ash-coloured). The path took us thence along a ridge, which separates
+the Lotiri, running westwards, and the Lobo, going northwards, and we
+came at length to the Lobo, travelling along its banks till we reached
+the village called Lisunga, which was about five yards broad, and very
+deep, in flood, with clear water, as indeed are all the rivulets now;
+they can only be crossed by felling a tree on the bant and letting it
+fall across. They do not abrade their banks--vegetation protects them.
+I observed that the brown ibis, a noisy bird, took care to restrain
+his loud, harsh voice when driven from the tree in which his nest was
+placed, and when about a quarter of a mile off, then commenced his
+loud "Ha-ha-ha!"
+
+_18th January, 1867._--The headman of Lisunga, Chaokila, took our
+present, and gave nothing in return. A deputy from Chitapangwa came
+afterwards and demanded a larger present, as he was the greater man,
+and said that if we gave him two fathoms of calico, he would order all
+the people to bring plenty of food, not here only, but all the way to
+the paramount chief of Lobemba, Chitapangwa. I proposed that he should
+begin by ordering Chaokila to give us some in return for our present.
+This led, as Chaokila told us, to the cloth being delivered to the
+deputy, and we saw that all the starvelings south of the Chambez� were
+poor dependants on the Babemba, or rather their slaves, who cultivate
+little, and then only in the rounded patches above mentioned, so as to
+prevent their conquerors from taking away more than a small share. The
+subjects are Babisa--a miserable lying lot of serfs. This tribe is
+engaged in the slave-trade, and the evil effects are seen in their
+depopulated country and utter distrust of every one.
+
+_19th January, 1867._--Raining most of the day. Worked out the
+longitude of the mountain-station said to be Mpini, but it will be
+better to name it Chitan�'s, as I could not get the name from our
+maundering guide; he probably did not know it. Lat, 11� 9' 2" S.;
+long. 32� 1' 30" E.
+
+    Altitude above sea (barometer)     5353 feet;
+    Altitude above sea (boiling-point) 5385 feet.
+                                       ----
+                                   Diff. 32.[46]
+
+Nothing but famine and famine prices, the people living on mushrooms
+and leaves. Of mushrooms we observed that they choose five or six
+kinds, and rejected ten sorts. One species becomes as large as the
+crown of a man's hat; it is pure white, with a blush of brown in the
+middle of the crown, and is very good roasted; it is named "Motenta;"
+another, Mofeta; 3rd, Bos�fw�; 4th, Nakabausa; 5th, Chisimb�,
+lobulated, green outside, and pink and fleshy inside; as a relish to
+others: some experience must have been requisite to enable them to
+distinguish the good from the noxious, of which they reject ten sorts.
+
+We get some elephants' meat from the people, but high is no name for
+its condition. It is very bitter, but we used it as a relish to the
+ma�re porridge: none of the animal is wasted; skin and all is cut up
+and sold, not one of us would touch it with the hand if we had aught
+else, for the gravy in which we dip our porridge is like an aqueous
+solution of aloes, but it prevents the heartburn, which ma�re causes
+when taken alone. I take mushrooms boiled instead; but the meat is
+never refused when we can purchase it, as it seems to ease the feeling
+of fatigue which jungle-fruit and fare engenders. The appetite in this
+country is always very keen, and makes hunger worse to bear: the want
+of salt, probably, makes the gnawing sensation worse.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[We now come to a disaster which cannot be exaggerated in importance
+when we witness its after effects month by month on Dr. Livingstone.
+There can be little doubt that the severity of his subsequent
+illnesses mainly turned upon it, and it is hardly too much to believe
+that his constitution from this time was steadily sapped by the
+effects of fever-poison which he was powerless to counteract, owing to
+the want of quinine. In his allusion to Bishop Mackenzie's death, we
+have only a further confirmation of the one rule in all such cases
+which must be followed, or the traveller in Africa goes--not with his
+life in his hand, but in some luckless box, put in the charge of
+careless servants. Bishop Mackenzie had all his drugs destroyed by the
+upsetting of a canoe, in which was his case of medicines, and in a
+moment everything was soaked and spoilt.
+
+It cannot be too strongly urged on explorers that they should divide
+their more important medicines in such a way that a _total loss_ shall
+become well-nigh impossible. Three or four tin canisters containing
+some calomel, Dover's powder, colocynth, and, above all, a supply of
+quinine, can be distributed in different packages, and then, if a
+mishap occurs similar to that which Livingstone relates, the disaster
+is not beyond remedy.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_20th January, 1867._--A guide refused, so we marched without one. The
+two Waiyau, who joined us at Kand�'s village, now deserted. They had
+been very faithful all the way, and took our part in every case.
+Knowing the language well, they were extremely useful, and no one
+thought that they would desert, for they were free men--their masters
+had been killed by the Mazitu--and this circumstance, and their
+uniform good conduct, made us trust them more than we should have done
+any others who had been slaves. But they left us in the forest, and
+heavy rain came on, which obliterated every vestige of their
+footsteps. To make the loss the more galling, they took what we could
+least spare--the medicine-box, which they would only throw away as
+soon as they came to examine their booty. One of these deserters
+exchanged his load that morning with a boy called Baraka, who had
+charge of the medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done,
+because with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all
+Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The Waiyau
+also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he
+gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. The
+forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of getting a glimpse
+of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box of powder, the
+flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as the Chambez�, the
+tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch; but the medicine-chest was the
+sorest loss of all! I felt as if I had now received the sentence of
+death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie.
+
+All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or desertion, but
+had never dreamed of losing the precious quinine and other remedies;
+other losses and annoyances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent
+of vexations which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and
+certainly not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an
+explorer anxious to benefit a country and people--but this loss I feel
+most keenly. Everything of this kind happens by the permission of One
+who watches over us with most tender care; and this may turn out for
+the best by taking away a source of suspicion among more
+superstitious, charm-dreading people further north. I meant it as a
+source of benefit to my party and to the heathen.
+
+We returned to Lisunga, and got two men off to go back to Chafunga's
+village, and intercept the deserters if they went there; but it is
+likely that, having our supply of flour, they will give our route a
+wide berth and escape altogether. It is difficult to say from the
+heart, "Thy will be done;" but I shall try. These Waiyau had few
+advantages: sold into slavery in early life, they were in the worst
+possible school for learning to be honest and honourable, they behaved
+well for a long time; but, having had hard and scanty fare in Lobisa,
+wet and misery in passing through dripping forests, hungry nights and
+fatiguing days, their patience must have been worn out, and they had
+no sentiments of honour, or at least none so strong as we ought to
+have; they gave way to the temptation which their good conduct had led
+us to put in their way. Some we have come across in this journey
+seemed born essentially mean and base--a great misfortune to them and
+all who have to deal with them, but they cannot be so blamable as
+those who have no natural tendency to meanness, and whose education
+has taught them to abhor it. True; yet this loss of the medicine-box
+gnaws at the heart terribly.
+
+_21st and 22nd January, 1867._--Remained at Lisunga--raining nearly
+all day; and we bought all the ma�re the chief would sell. We were now
+forced to go on and made for the next village to buy food. Want of
+food and rain are our chief difficulties now, more rain falls here on
+this northern slope of the upland than elsewhere; clouds come up from
+the north and pour down their treasures in heavy thunder-showers,
+which deluge the whole country south of the edge of the plateau: the
+rain-clouds come from the west chiefly.
+
+_23rd January, 1867._--A march of five and three-quarter hours brought
+us yesterday to a village, Chibanda's stockade, where "no food" was
+the case, as usual. We crossed a good-sized rivulet, the Mapampa
+(probably ten yards wide), dashing along to the east; all the rest of
+the way was in dark forest. I sent off the boys to the village of
+Muasi to buy food, if successful, to-morrow we march for the Chambez�,
+on the other side of which all the reports agree in the statement that
+there plenty of food is to be had. We all feel weak and easily tired,
+and an incessant hunger teases us, so it is no wonder if so large a
+space of this paper is occupied by stomach affairs. It has not been
+merely want of nice dishes, but real biting hunger and faintness.
+
+_24th January, 1867._--Four hours through unbroken, dark forest
+brought us to the Movushi, which here is a sluggish stream, winding
+through and filling a marshy valley a mile wide. It comes from
+south-east, and falls into the Chambez�, about 2' north of our
+encampment. The village of Moaba is on the east side of the marshy
+valley of the Movuhi, and very difficult to be approached, as the
+water is chin-deep in several spots. I decided to make sheds on the
+west side, and send over for food, which, thanks to the Providence
+which watches over us, we found at last in a good supply of ma�re and
+some ground-nuts; but through, all this upland region the trees
+yielding bark-cloth, or _nyanda_, are so abundant, that the people
+are all well-clothed with it, and care but little for our cloth. Red
+and pink beads are in fashion, and fortunately we have red.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[We may here add a few particulars concerning beads, which form such
+an important item of currency all through Africa. With a few
+exceptions they are all manufactured in Venice. The greatest care must
+be exercised, or the traveller--ignorant of the prevailing fashion in
+the country he is about to explore--finds himself with an accumulation
+of beads of no more value than tokens would be if tendered in this
+country for coin of the realm.
+
+Thanks to the kindness of Messrs. Levin & Co., the bead merchants, of
+Bevis Marks, E.C., we have been able to get some idea of the more
+valuable beads, through a selection made by Susi and Chuma in their
+warehouse. The Waiyou prefer exceedingly small beads, the size of
+mustard-seed, and of various colours, but they must be opaque: amongst
+them dull white chalk varieties, called "Catchokolo," are valuable,
+besides black and pink, named, respectively, "Bububu" and
+"Sekunderech�" = the "dregs of pombe." One red bead, of various sizes,
+which has a white centre, is always valuable in every part of Africa.
+It is called "Sami-sami" by the Suah�l�, "Chitakaraka" by the Waiyou,
+"Mangazi," = "blood," by the Nyassa, and was found popular even
+amongst the Manyuema, under the name of "Maso-kantussi", "bird's
+eyes." Whilst speaking of this distant tribe, it is interesting to
+observe that one peculiar long bead, recognised as common in the
+Manyuema land, is only sent to the West Coast of Africa, and _never_
+to the East. On Chuma pointing to it as a sort found at the extreme
+limit explored by Livingstone, it was at once seen that he must have
+touched that part of Africa which begins to be within the reach of the
+traders in the Portuguese settlements. "Machua Kanga" = "guinea fowl's
+eyes," is another popular variety; and the "Moiompio" = "new heart,"
+a large pale blue bead, is a favourite amongst the Wabisa; but by far
+the most valuable of all is a small white oblong bead, which, when
+strung, looks like the joints of the cane root, from which it takes
+its name, "Salani" = cane. Susi says that 1 lb. weight of these beads
+would buy a tusk of ivory, at the south end of Tanganyika, so big that
+a strong man could not carry it more than two hours.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_25th January, 1867._--Remain and get our ma�re ground into flour.
+Moaba has cattle, sheep, and goats. The other side of the Chambez� has
+everything in still greater abundance; so we may recover our lost
+flesh. There are buffaloes in this quarter, but we have not got a
+glimpse of any. If game was to be had, I should have hunted; but the
+hopo way of hunting prevails, and we pass miles of hedges by which
+many animals must have perished. In passing-through the forests it is
+surprising to see none but old footsteps of the game; but the hopo
+destruction accounts for its absence. When the hedges are burned, then
+the manured space is planted with pumpkins and calabashes.
+
+I observed at Chibanda's a few green mushrooms, which, on being
+peeled, showed a pink, fleshy inside; they are called "chisimba;" and
+only one or two are put into the mortar, in which the women pound the
+other kinds, to give relish, it was said, to the mass: I could not
+ascertain what properties chisimba had when taken alone; but mushroom
+diet, in our experience, is good only for producing dreams of the
+roast beef of bygone days. The saliva runs from the mouth in these
+dreams, and the pillow is wet with it in the mornings.
+
+These Babisa are full of suspicion; everything has to be paid for
+accordingly in advance, and we found that giving a present to a chief
+is only putting it in his power to cheat us out of a supper. They give
+nothing to each other for nothing, and if this is enlargement of mind
+produced by commerce, commend me to the untrading African!
+
+Fish now appear in the rivulets. Higher altitudes have only small
+things, not worth catching.
+
+An owl makes the woods resound by night and early morning with his
+cries, which consist of a loud, double-initial note, and then a
+succession of lower descending notes. Another new bird, or at least
+new to me, makes the forests ring.
+
+When the vultures see us making our sheds, they conclude that we have
+killed some animal; but after watching awhile, and seeing no meat,
+they depart. This is suggestive of what other things prove, that it is
+only by sight they are guided.[47]
+
+With respect to the native head-dresses the colouring-matter, "nkola,"
+which seems to be camwood, is placed as an ornament on the head, and
+some is put on the bark-cloth to give it a pleasant appearance. The
+tree, when cut, is burned to bring out the strong colour, and then,
+when it is developed, the wood is powdered.
+
+The gum-copal trees now pour out gum where wounded, and I have seen
+masses of it fallen on the ground.
+
+_26th January, 1867._--Went northwards along the Movushi, near to its
+confluence with Chambez�, and then took lodging in a deserted
+temporary village. In the evening I shot a poku, or ts�bula,
+full-grown male. It measured from snout to insertion of tail, 5 feet
+3 inches; tail, 1 foot; height at withers, 3 feet; circumference of
+chest, 5 feet; face to insertion of horns, 9-1/2 inches; horns
+measured on curve, 16 inches. Twelve rings on horns, and one had a
+ridge behind, 1/2 inch broad, 1/2 inch high, and tapering up the horn;
+probably accidental. Colour: reddish-yellow, dark points in front of
+foot and on the ears, belly nearly white. The shell went through from
+behind the shoulder to the spleen, and burst on the other side, yet he
+ran 100 yards. I felt very thankful to the Giver of all good for this
+meat.
+
+_27th January, 1867._--A set-in rain all the morning, but having meat
+we were comfortable in the old huts. In changing my dress this morning
+I was frightened at my own emaciation.
+
+_28th January, 1867._--- We went five miles along the Movushi and the
+Chambez� to a crossing-place said to avoid three rivers on the other
+side, which require canoes just now, and have none. Our lat. 10� 34'
+S. The Chambez� was flooded with clear water, but the lines of bushy
+trees, which showed its real banks, were not more than forty yards
+apart, it showed its usual character of abundant animal life in its
+waters and on its banks, as it wended its way westwards. The canoe-man
+was excessively suspicious; when prepayment was acceded to, he asked a
+piece more, and although he was promised full payment as soon as we
+were all safely across he kept the last man on the south side as a
+hostage for this bit of calico: he then ran away. They must cheat each
+other sadly.
+
+Went northwards, wading across two miles of flooded flats on to which
+the _Clarias Capensis_, a species of siluris, comes to forage out of
+the river. We had the Likindazi, a sedgy stream, with hippopotami, on
+our right. Slept in forest without seeing anyone. Then next day we met
+with a party who had come from their village to look for us. We were
+now in Lobemba, but these villagers had nothing but hopes of plenty at
+Chitapangwa's. This village had half a mile of ooze and sludgy marsh
+in front of it, and a stockade as usual. We observed that the people
+had great fear of animals at night, and shut the gates carefully, of
+even temporary villages. When at Molemba (Chitapangwa's village)
+afterwards, two men were killed by a lion, and great fear of
+crocodiles was expressed by our canoe-man at the Chambez�, when one
+washed in the margin of that river. There was evidence of abundance of
+game, elephants, and buffaloes, but we saw none.
+
+_29th January, 1867._--When near our next stage end we were shown
+where lightning had struck; it ran down a gum-copal tree without
+damaging it, then ten yards horizontally, and dividing there into two
+streams it went up an anthill; the withered grass showed its course
+very plainly, and next day (31st), on the banks of the Mabula, we saw
+a dry tree which had been struck; large splinters had been riven off
+and thrown a distance of sixty yards in one direction and thirty yards
+in another: only a stump was left, and patches of withered grass where
+it had gone horizontally.
+
+_30th January, 1867._--Northwards through almost trackless dripping
+forests and across oozing bogs.
+
+_31st January, 1867._--Through forest, but gardens of larger size than
+in Lobisa now appear. A man offered a thick bar of copper for sale, a
+foot by three inches. The hard-leafed acacia and mohempi abound. The
+valleys, with the oozes, have a species of grass, having pink
+seed-stalks and yellow seeds: this is very pretty. At midday we came
+to the Lopiri, the rivulet which waters Chitapanga's stockade, and
+soon after found that his village has a triple stockade, the inner
+being defended also by a deep broad ditch and hedge of a solanaceous
+thorny shrub. It is about 200 yards broad and 500 long. The huts not
+planted very closely.
+
+The rivulets were all making for the Chambez�. They contain no fish,
+except very small ones--probably fry. On the other, or western side
+of the ridge, near which "Malemba" is situated, fish abound worth
+catching.
+
+[Illustration: Chitapangwa]
+
+Chitapangwa, or Motoka, as he is also called, sent to inquire if we
+wanted an audience. "We must take something in our hands the first
+time we came before so great a man." Being tired from marching, I
+replied, "Not till the evening," and sent notice at 5 P.M. of my
+coming. We passed through the inner stockade, and then on to an
+enormous hut, where sat Chitapangwa, with three drummers and ten or
+more men, with two rattles in their hands. The drummers beat
+furiously, and the rattlers kept time to the drums, two of them
+advancing and receding in a stooping posture, with rattles near the
+ground, as if doing the chief obeisance, but still keeping time with
+the others. I declined to sit on the ground, and an enormous tusk was
+brought for me. The chief saluted courteously. He has a fat jolly
+face, and legs loaded with brass and copper leglets. I mentioned our
+losses by the desertion of the Waiyau, but his power is merely
+nominal, and he could do nothing. After talking awhile he came along
+with us to a group of cows, and pointed out one. "That is yours," said
+he. The tusk on which I sat was sent after me too as being mine,
+because I had sat upon it. He put on my cloth as token of acceptance,
+and sent two large baskets of sorghum to the hut afterwards, and then
+sent for one of the boys to pump him after dark.
+
+[Illustration: Chitapangwa's Wives.]
+
+_1st February, 1867._--We found a small party of black Arab
+slave-traders here from Bagamoio on the coast, and as the chief had
+behaved handsomely as I thought, I went this morning and gave him one
+of our best cloths; but when we were about to kill the cow, a man
+interfered and pointed out a smaller one. I asked if this was by the
+orders of the chief. The chief said that the man had lied, but I
+declined to take any cow at all if he did not give it willingly.
+
+The slavers, the headman of whom was Magaru Mafupi, came and said that
+they were going off on the 2nd; (_2nd February, 1867_) but by payment
+I got them to remain a day, and was all day employed in writing
+despatches.
+
+_3rd February, 1867._--Magaru Mafupi left this morning with a packet
+of letters, for which he is to get Rs. 10 at Zanzibar.[48] They came
+by a much shorter route than we followed, in fact, nearly due west or
+south-west; but not a soul would tell us of this way of coming into
+the country when we were at Zanzibar. Bagamoio is only six hours north
+of Kurdary Harbour. It is possible that the people of Zanzibar did not
+know of it themselves, as this is the first time they have come so
+far. The route is full of villages and people who have plenty of
+goats, and very cheap. They number fifteen stations, or sultans, as
+they call the chiefs, and will be at Bagamoio in two months:--1.
+Chasa; 2. Lomb�; 3. Ucher�; 4. Nyamiro; 5. Zonda; 6. Zambi; 7. Lioti;
+8. M�rer�; 9. Kirangabana; 10. Nkongozi; 11. Sombogo; 12. Sur�; 13.
+Lomolasenga; 14. Kapass; 15, Chanz�. They are then in the country
+adjacent to Bagamoio. Some of these places are two or three days apart
+from each other.
+
+They came to three large rivers: 1. Wembo; 2. Luaha; 3. Luvo; but I
+had not time to make further inquiries. They had one of Speke's
+companions to Tanganyika with them, named Janj�, or Janja, who could
+imitate a trumpet by blowing into the palm of his hand. I ordered
+another supply of cloth and beads, and I sent for a small quantity of
+coffee, sugar, candles, French preserved meats, a cheese in tin, six
+bottles of port-wine, quinine, calomel, and resin of jalap, to be sent
+to Ujiji.
+
+I proposed to go a little way east with this route to buy goats, but
+Chitapangwa got very angry, saying, I came only to show my things, and
+would buy nothing: he then altered his tone, and requested me to take
+the cow first presented and eat it, and as we were all much in need I
+took it. We were to give only what we liked in addition; but this was
+a snare, and when I gave two more cloths he sent them back, and
+demanded a blanket. The boys alone have blankets; so I told him these
+were not slaves, and I could not take from them what I had once given.
+Though it is disagreeable to be thus victimized, it is the first time
+we have tasted fat for six weeks and more.
+
+_6th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa came with his wife to see the
+instruments which I explained to them as well as I could, and the
+books, as well as the Book of Books, and to my statements he made
+intelligent remarks. The boys are sorely afraid of him. When Abraham
+does not like to say what I state, he says to me "I don't know the
+proper word;" but when I speak without him, he soon finds them. He and
+Simon thought that talking in a cringing manner was the way to win him
+over, so I let them try it with a man he sent to communicate with us,
+and the result was this fellow wanted to open their bundles, pulled
+them about, and kept them awake most of the night. Abraham came at
+night: "Sir, what shall I do? they won't let me sleep." "You have had
+your own way," I replied, "and must abide by it." He brought them over
+to me in the morning, but I soon dismissed both him and them.
+
+_7th February, 1867._--I sent to the chief either to come to me or say
+Avhen I should come to him and talk; the answer I got was that he
+would come when shaved, but he afterwards sent a man to hear what I
+had to advance--this I declined, and when the rain ceased I went
+myself.
+
+On coming into his hut I stated that I had given him four times the
+value of his cow, but if he thought otherwise, let us take the four
+cloths to his brother Moamba, and if he said that I had not given
+enough, I would buy a cow and send it back. This he did not relish at
+all. "Oh, great Englishman! why should we refer a dispute to an
+inferior. I am the great chief of all this country. Ingleze mokolu,
+you are sorry that you have to give so much for the ox you have eaten.
+You would not take a smaller, and therefore I gratified your heart by
+giving the larger; and why should not you gratify my heart by giving
+cloth sufficient to cover me, and please me?"
+
+I said that my cloths would cover him, and his biggest wife too all
+over, he laughed at this, but still held out; and as we have meat, and
+he sent maize and calabashes, I went away. He turns round now, and
+puts the blame of greediness on me. I cannot enter into his ideas, or
+see his point of view; cannot, in fact, enter into his ignorance, his
+prejudices, or delusions, so it is impossible to pronounce a true
+judgment. One who has no humour cannot understand one who has: this is
+an equivalent case.
+
+Rain and clouds so constantly, I could not get our latitude till last
+night, 10� 14' 6" S. On 8th got lunars. Long. 31� 46' 45" E. Altitude
+above sea, 4700 feet, by boiling-point and barometer.
+
+_8th February, 1867._--The chief demands one of my boxes and a
+blanket; I explain that one day's rain would spoil the contents, and
+the boys who have blankets, not being slaves, I cannot take from them
+what I have given. I am told that he declares that he will take us
+back to the Loangwa; make war and involve us in it, deprive us of
+food, &c.: this succeeds in terrifying the boys. He thinks that we
+have some self-interest to secure in passing through the country, and
+therefore he has a right to a share in the gain. When told it was for
+a public benefit, he pulled down the underlid of the right eye.[49] He
+believes we shall profit by our journey, though he knows not in what
+way.
+
+It is possibly only a coincidence, but no sooner do we meet with one
+who accompanied Speke and Burton to Tanganyika, than the system of
+mulcting commences. I have no doubt but that Janj� told this man how
+his former employers paid down whatever was demanded of them.
+
+_10th February, 1867._--I had service in the open air, many looking
+on, and spoke afterwards to the chief, but he believes nothing save
+what Speke and Burton's man has told him. He gave us a present of corn
+and ground-nuts, and says he did not order the people not to sell
+grain to us. We must stop and eat green maize. He came after evening
+service, and I explained a little to him, and showed him woodcuts in
+the 'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood.
+
+_11th February, 1867._--The chief sent us a basket of hippopotamus
+flesh from the Chambez�, and a large one of green maize. He says the
+three cloths I offered are still mine: all he wants is a box and
+blanket; if not a blanket, a box must be given, a tin one. He keeps
+out of my way, by going to the gardens every morning. He is
+good-natured, and our intercourse is a laughing one; but the boys
+betray their terrors in their tone of voice, and render my words
+powerless.
+
+The black and white, and the brownish-grey water wagtails are
+remarkably tame. They come about the huts and even into them, and no
+one ever disturbs them. They build their nests about the huts. In the
+Bechuana country, a fine is imposed on any man whose boys kill one,
+but why, no one can tell me. The boys with me aver that they are not
+killed, because the meat is not eaten! or because they are so tame!!
+
+_13th February, 1867._--I gave one of the boxes at last, Chitapangwa
+offering a heavy Arab wooden one to preserve our things, which I
+declined to take, as I parted with our own partly to lighten a load.
+Abraham unwittingly told me that he had not given me the chiefs
+statement in full when he pressed me to take his cow. It was, "Take
+and eat the one you like, and give me a blanket." Abraham said "He has
+no blanket." Then he said to me, "Take it and eat it, and give him any
+pretty thing you like." I was thus led to mistake the chief, and he,
+believing that he had said explicitly he wanted a blanket for it,
+naturally held out. It is difficult to get these lads to say what one
+wants uttered: either with enormous self-conceit, they give different,
+and, as they think, better statements, suppress them altogether, or
+return false answers: this is the great and crowning difficulty of my
+intercourse.
+
+I got ready to go, but the chief was very angry, and came with all his
+force, exclaiming that I wanted to leave against his will and power,
+though he wished to adjust matters, and send me away nicely. He does
+not believe that we have no blankets. It is hard to be kept waiting
+here, but all may be for the best: it has always turned out so, and I
+trust in Him on whom I can cast all my cares. The Lord look on this
+and help me. Though I have these nine boys, I feel quite alone.
+
+I gave the chief some seeds, peas, and beans, for which he seemed
+thankful, and returned little presents of food and beer frequently.
+The beer of ma�re is stuffed full of the growing grain as it begins to
+sprout, it is as thick as porridge, very strong and bitter, and goes
+to the head, requiring a strong digestion to overcome it.
+
+_February, 1867._--I showed the chief one of the boys' blankets,
+which he is willing to part with for two of our cloths, each of which
+is larger than it, but he declines to receive it, because we have new
+ones. I invited him, since he disbelieved my assertions, to look in
+our bales, and if he saw none, to pay us a fine for the insult: he
+consented in a laughing way to give us an ox. All our personal
+intercourse has been of the good-natured sort. It is the
+communications to the boys, by three men who are our protectors, or
+rather spies, that is disagreeable; I won't let them bring those
+fellows near me.
+
+_10th February, 1867._--He came early in the morning, and I showed
+that I had no blanket, and he took the old one, and said that the
+affair was ended. A long misunderstanding would have been avoided, had
+Abraham told me fully what the chief said at first.
+
+_16th February, 1867._--The chief offered me a cow for � piece of red
+serge, and after a deal of talk and Chitapangwa swearing that no
+demand would be made after the bargain was concluded, I gave the
+serge, a cloth, and a few beads for a good fat cow. The serge was two
+fathoms, a portion of that which Miss Coutts gave me when leaving
+England in 1858.
+
+The chief is not so bad, as the boys are so cowardly. They assume a
+chirping, piping tone of voice in speaking to him, and do not say what
+at last has to be said, because in their cringing souls they believe
+they know what should be said better than I do. It does not strike
+them in the least that I have grown grey amongst these people; and it
+is immense conceit in mere boys to equal themselves to me. The
+difficulty is greater, because when I do ask their opinions I only
+receive the reply, "It is as you please, sir." Very likely some men of
+character may arise and lead them; but such as I have would do little
+to civilise.
+
+_17th February, 1867._--Too ill with rheumatic-fever to have service;
+this is the first attack of it I ever had--and no medicine! but I
+trust in the Lord, who healeth His people.
+
+_18th February, 1867._--This cow we divided at once. The last one we
+cooked, and divided a full, hearty meal to all every evening.
+
+The boom--booming of water dashing against or over the rocks is heard
+at a good distance from most of the burns in this upland region; hence
+it is never quite still.
+
+The rocks here are argillaceous schist, red and white. _(Keel,
+Scottic�.)_
+
+_19th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa begged me to stay another day,
+that one of the boys might mend his blanket; it has been worn every
+night since April, and I, being weak and giddy, consented. A glorious
+day of bright sunlight after a night's rain. We scarcely ever have a
+twenty-four hours without rain, and never half that period without
+thunder.
+
+The camwood (?) is here called molombwa, and grows very abundantly.
+The people take the bark, boil, and grind it fine: it is then a
+splendid blood-red, and they use it extensively as an ornament,
+sprinkling it on the bark-cloth, or smearing it on the head. It is in
+large balls, and is now called mkola. The tree has pinnated, alternate
+lanceolate, leaves, and attains a height of 40 or 50 feet, with a
+diameter of 15 or 18 inches finely and closely veined above, more
+widely beneath.
+
+I am informed by Abraham that the Nyumbo (Numbo or Mumbo) is easily
+propagated by cuttings, or by cuttings of the roots. A bunch of the
+stalks is preserved in the soil for planting next year, and small
+pieces are cut off, and take root easily; it has a pea-shaped flower,
+but we never saw the seed. It is very much better here than I have
+seen it elsewhere; and James says that in his country it is quite
+white and better still; what I have seen is of a greenish tinge after
+it is boiled.
+
+[Amongst the articles brought to the coast the men took care not to
+lose a number of seeds which they found in Dr. Livingstone's boxes
+after his death. These have been placed in the hands of the
+authorities at Kew, and we may hope that in some instances they have
+maintained vitality.
+
+It is a great pity that there is such a lack of enterprise in the
+various European settlements on the East Coast of Africa. Were it
+otherwise a large trade in valuable woods and other products would
+assuredly spring up. Ebony and lignum vitae abound; Dr. Livingstone
+used hardly any other fuel when he navigated the _Pioneer_, and no
+wood was found to make such "good steam." India-rubber may be had for
+the collecting, and we see that even the natives know some of the
+dye-woods, besides which the palm-oil tree is found, indigo is a weed
+everywhere, and coffee is indigenous.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[36] In coming to cross roads it is the custom of the leader to "mark"
+all side paths and wrong turnings by making a scratch across them with
+his spear, or by breaking a branch and laying it across: in this way
+those who follow are able to avoid straying off the proper road.--ED.
+
+[37] Heleotragus Vardonii.
+
+[38] The tamarind does the same thing in the heat of the day.
+
+[39] A species of kingfisher, which stands flapping its wings and
+attempting to sing in a ridiculous manner. It never was better
+described than by one observer who, after watching it through its
+performance, said it was "a toy-shoppy bird."--ED.
+
+[40] Not the great chief near Lake Moero of the same name.
+
+[41] This extraordinary bird flies from tree to tree in front of the
+hunter, chirrupping loudly, and will not be content till he arrives at
+the spot where the bees'-nest is; it then waits quietly till the honey
+is taken, and feeds on the broken morsels of comb which fall to its
+share.
+
+[42] Eleusine Coracana.
+
+[43] It may not be altogether without interest to state that
+Livingstone could fall asleep when he wished at the very shortest
+notice. A mat, and a shady tree under which to spread it, would at any
+time afford him a refreshing sleep, and this faculty no doubt
+contributed much to his great powers of endurance.--ED.
+
+[44] When the elephant becomes confused by the yelping pack of dogs
+with which he is surrounded, the hunter stealthily approaches behind,
+and with one blow of a sharp axe hamstrings the huge beast.--ED.
+
+[45] Raphia.
+
+[46] Top of mountain (barometer) 6338 feat.
+
+[47] The experience of all African sportsmen tends towards the same
+conclusion. Vultures probably have their beats high overhead in the
+sky, too far to be seen by the eye. From this altitude they can watch
+a vast tract of country, and whenever the disturbed movements of game
+are observed they draw together, and for the first time are seen
+wheeling, about at a great height over the spot. So soon as an animal
+is killed, every tree is filled with them, but the hunter has only to
+cover the meat with boughs or reeds and the vultures are entirely at a
+loss--hidden, from view it is hidden altogether: the idea that they
+are attracted by their keen sense of smell is altogether
+erroneous,--ED.
+
+[48] These letters reached England safely.
+
+[49] It seems almost too ridiculous to believe that we have here the
+exact equivalent of the schoolboy's demonstrative "Do you see any
+green in my eye?" nevertheless it looks wonderfully like it!--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with
+    fever. Threatening attitude of Chibu�'s people. Continued
+    illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty
+    of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake.
+    Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama.
+    Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to
+    principal Arab Harnees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the
+    Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran.
+    Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo to the eastward, and their
+    chief, Mer�r�. Harnees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn.
+    Departure for Ponda. Native cupping.
+
+
+_20th February, 1867._--I told the chief before starting that my heart
+was sore, because he was not sending me away so cordially as I liked.
+He at once ordered men to start with us, and gave me a brass knife
+with ivory sheath, which he had long worn, as a memorial. He explained
+that we ought to go north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately
+be obliged to turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we
+reached the Lake Tanganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground
+and rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and
+came along with us to see that all was right; and so we parted.
+
+We soon ascended the plateau, which encloses with its edge the village
+and stream of Molemba. Wild pigs are abundant, and there are marks of
+former cultivation. A short march brought us to an ooze, surrounded by
+hedges, game-traps, and pitfalls, where, as we are stiff and weak, we
+spend the night. Rocks abound of the same dolomite kind as on the
+ridge further south, between the Loangwa and Chambez�, covered, like
+them, with lichens, orchids, euphorbias, and upland vegetation,
+hard-leaved acacias, rhododendrons, masukos. The gum-copal tree, when
+perforated by a grub, exudes from branches no thicker than one's arm,
+masses of soft, gluey-looking gum, brownish yellow, and light grey, as
+much as would fill a soup-plate. It seems to yield this gum only in
+the rainy season, and now all the trees are full of sap and gum.
+
+_21st February, 1867._--A night with loud and near thunder, and much
+heavy rain, which came through the boys' sheds. Roads all plashy or
+running with water, oozes full, and rivulets overflowing; rocks of
+dolomite jutting out here and there. I noticed growing here a
+spikenard-looking shrub, six feet high, and a foot in diameter. The
+path led us west against my will. I found one going north; but the
+boys pretended that they did not see my mark, and went west, evidently
+afraid of incurring Moamba's displeasure by passing him. I found them
+in an old hut, and made the best of it by saying nothing. They said
+that they had wandered; that was, they had never left the west-going
+path.
+
+_22nd February, 1867._--We came to a perennial rivulet running north,
+the Merungu. Here we met Moamba's people, but declined going to his
+village, as huts are disagreeable; they often have vermin, and one is
+exposed to the gaze of a crowd through a very small doorway. The
+people in their curiosity often make the place dark, and the impudent
+ones offer characteristic remarks, then raise a laugh, and run away.
+
+We encamped on the Meningu's right bank in forest, sending word to
+Moamba that we meant to do so. He sent a deputation, first of all his
+young men, to bring us; then old men, and lastly he came himself with
+about sixty followers. I explained that I had become sick by living
+in a little hut at Molemba; that I was better in the open air; that
+huts contained vermin; and that I did not mean to remain any while
+here, but go on our way. He pressed us to come to his village, and
+gave us a goat and kid, with a huge calabashful of beer. I promised to
+go over and visit him next day; and went accordingly.
+
+_23rd February, 1867._--Moamba's village was a mile off, and on the
+left bank of the Mereng�, a larger stream than the Merungu flowing
+north and having its banks and oozes covered with fine, tall,
+straight, evergreen trees. The village is surrounded with a stockade,
+and a dry ditch some fifteen or twenty feet wide, and as many deep. I
+had a long talk with Moamba, a big, stout, public-house-looking
+person, with a slight outward cast in his left eye, but intelligent
+and hearty. I presented him with a cloth; and he gave me as much ma�re
+meal as a man could carry, with a large basket of ground-nuts. He
+wished us to come to the Mereng�, if not into his village, that he
+might see and talk with me: I also showed him some pictures in Smith's
+'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood, and I spoke to him
+about the Bible. He asked me "to come next day and tell him about
+prayer to God," this was a natural desire after being told that we
+prayed.
+
+He was very anxious to know why we were going to Tanganyika; for what
+we came; what we should buy there; and if I had any relations there.
+He then showed me some fine large tusks, eight feet six in length.
+"What do you wish to buy, if not slaves or ivory?" I replied, that the
+only thing I had seen worth buying was a fine fat chief like him, as a
+specimen, and a woman feeding him, as he had, with beer. He was
+tickled at this; and said that when we reached our country, I must put
+fine clothes on him. This led us to speak of our climate, and the
+production of wool.
+
+_24th February, 1867._--I went over after service, but late, as the
+rain threatened to be heavy. A case was in process of hearing, and one
+old man spoke an hour on end, the chief listening all the while with
+the gravity of a judge. He then delivered his decision in about five
+minutes, the successful litigant going off lullilooing. Each person,
+before addressing him, turns his back to him and lies down on the
+ground, clapping the hands: this is the common mode of salutation.
+Another form here in Lobemba is to rattle the arrows or an arrow on
+the bow, which all carry. We had a little talk with the chief; but it
+was late before the cause was heard through. He asked us to come and
+spend one night near him on the Merenga, and then go on, so we came
+over in the morning to the vicinity of his village. A great deal of
+copper-wire is here made, the wire-drawers using for one part of the
+process a seven-inch cable. They make very fine wire, and it is used
+chiefly as leglets and anklets; the chief's wives being laden with
+them, and obliged to walk in a stately style from the weight: the
+copper comes from Katanga.
+
+_26th February, 1867._--The chief wishes to buy a cloth with two
+goats, but his men do not bring them up quickly. Simon, one of the
+boys, is ill of fever, and this induces me to remain, though moving
+from one place to another is the only remedy we have in our power.
+
+With the chief's men we did not get on well, but with himself all was
+easy. His men demanded prepayment for canoes to cross the river
+Lo�mb�; but in the way that he put it, the request was not
+unreasonable, as he gave a man to smooth our way, and get canoes, or
+whatever else was needed, all the way to Chibu�'s. I gave a cloth when
+he put it thus, and he presented a goat, a spear ornamented with
+copper-wire, abundance of meal, and beer, and numbo; so we parted good
+friends, as his presents were worth the cloth.
+
+Holding a north-westerly course we met with the Chikosho flowing
+west, and thence came to the Likomb� by a high ridge called Losauswa,
+which runs a long way westward. It is probably a watershed between
+streams going to the Chambez� and those that go to the northern
+rivers.
+
+We have the Locopa, Lo�mb�, Nik�l�ng�, then Lofubu or Lovu; the last
+goes north into Liembe, but accounts are very confused. The Chambez�
+rises in the Mambiv� country, which is north-east of Moamba, but near
+to it.
+
+The forest through which we passed was dense, but scrubby; trees
+unhealthy and no drainage except through oozes. On the keel which
+forms a clay soil the rain runs off, and the trees attain a large
+size. The roads are not soured by the slow process of the ooze
+drainage. At present all the slopes having loamy or sandy soil are
+oozes, and full to overflowing; a long time is required for them to
+discharge their contents. The country generally may be called one
+covered with forest.
+
+_6th March, 1867._--We came after a short march to a village on the
+Molilanga, flowing east into the Lo�mb�, here we meet with bananas for
+the first time, called, as in Lunda, nkond�. A few trophies from
+Mazitu are hung up: Chitapangwa had twenty-four skulls ornamenting his
+stockade. The Babemba are decidedly more warlike than any of the
+tribes south of them: their villages are stockaded, and have deep dry
+ditches round them, so it is likely that Mochimb� will be effectually
+checked, and forced to turn his energies to something else than to
+marauding.
+
+Our man from Moamba here refused to go further, and we were put on the
+wrong track by the headman wading through three marshes, each at least
+half a mile broad. The people of the first village we came to shut
+their gates on us, then came running after us; but we declined to
+enter their village: it is a way of showing their independence. We
+made our sheds on a height in spite of their protests. They said that
+the gates were shut by the boys; but when I pointed out the boy who
+had done it, he said that he had been ordered to do it by the chief.
+If we had gone in now we should have been looked on as having come
+under considerable obligations.
+
+_8th March, 1867._--We went on to a village on the Lo�mb�, where the
+people showed an opposite disposition, for not a soul was in it--all
+were out at their farms. When the good wife of the place came she gave
+us all huts, which saved us from a pelting shower. The boys herding
+the goats did not stir as we passed down the sides of the lovely
+valley. The Lo�mb� looks a sluggish stream from a distance. The
+herdsman said we were welcome, and he would show the crossing next
+day, he also cooked some food for us.
+
+Guided by our host, we went along the Lo�mb� westwards till we reached
+the bridge (rather a rickety affair), which, when the water is low may
+be used as a weir. The Lo�mb� main stream is 66 feet wide, 6 feet
+deep, with at least 200 feet of flood beyond it. The water was knee
+deep on the bridge, but clear; the flooded part beyond was waist deep
+and the water flowing fast.
+
+All the people are now transplanting tobacco from the spaces under the
+eaves of the huts into the fields. It seems unable to bear the greater
+heat of summer: they plant also a kind of liranda, proper for the cold
+weather. We thought that we were conferring a boon in giving peas, but
+we found them generally propagated all over the country already, and
+in the cold time too. We went along the Diola River to an old hut and
+made a fire; thence across country to another river, called Loendaw�,
+6 feet wide, and 9 feet deep.
+
+_10th March, 1867._--I have been ill of fever ever since we left
+Moamba's; every step I take jars in the chest, and I am very weak; I
+can scarcely keep up the march, though formerly I was always first,
+and had to hold in my pace not to leave the people altogether. I have
+a constant singing in the ears, and can scarcely hear the loud tick
+of the chronometers. The appetite is good, but we have no proper food,
+chiefly ma�re meal or beans, or mapemba or ground-nuts, rarely a fowl.
+
+The country is full of hopo-hedges, but the animals are harassed, and
+we never see them.
+
+_11th March, 1867._.--Detained by a set-in rain. Marks on masses of
+dolomite elicited the information that a party of Londa smiths came
+once to this smelting ground and erected their works here. We saw an
+old iron furnace, and masses of haematite, which seems to have been
+the ore universally used.
+
+_12th March, 1867._--Rain held us back for some time, but we soon
+reached Chibu�, a stockaded village. Like them all, it is situated by
+a stream, with a dense clump of trees on the waterside of some species
+of mangrove. They attain large size, have soft wood, and succulent
+leaves; the roots intertwine in the mud, and one has to watch that he
+does not step where no roots exist, otherwise he sinks up to the
+thigh. In a village the people feel that we are on their property, and
+crowd upon us inconveniently; but outside, where we usually erect our
+sheds, no such feeling exists, we are each on a level, and they don't
+take liberties.
+
+The Balungu are marked by three or four little knobs on the temples,
+and the lobes of the ears are distended by a piece of wood, which is
+ornamented with beads; bands of beads go across the forehead and hold
+up the hair.
+
+Chibu�'s village is at the source of the Lokw�na, which goes N. and
+N.E.; a long range of low hills is on our N.E., which are the Mambw�,
+or part of them. The Chambez� rises in them, but further south. Here
+the Lokw�na, round whose source we came on starting this morning to
+avoid wet feet, and all others north and west of this, go to the Lofu
+or Lobu, and into Liemba Lake. Those from the hills on our right go
+east into the Loanzu and so into the Lake.
+
+_15th March, 1867._--We now are making for Kasonso, the chief of the
+Lake, and a very large country all around it, passing the Lochenj�,
+five yards wide, and knee deep, then to the Cha�umba. All flow very
+rapidly just now and are flooded with clean water. Everyone carries an
+axe, as if constantly warring with the forest. My long-continued fever
+ill disposes me to enjoy the beautiful landscape. We are evidently on
+the ridge, but people have not a clear conception of where the rivers
+run.
+
+_19th March, 1867._--A party of young men came out of the village near
+which we had encamped to force us to pay something for not going into
+their village. "The son of a great chief ought to be acknowledged,"
+&c. They had their bows and arrows with them, and all ready for
+action. I told them we had remained near them because they said we
+could not reach Kasonso that day. Their headman had given us nothing.
+After talking a while, and threatening to do a deal to-morrow, they
+left, and through an Almighty Providence nothing was attempted. We
+moved on N.W. in forest, with long green tree-covered slopes on our
+right, and came to a village of Kasonso in a very lovely valley. Great
+green valleys were now scooped out, and many, as the Kakanza, run into
+the Lovu.
+
+_20th March, 1867._--The same features of country prevailed, indeed it
+was impossible to count the streams flowing N.W. We found Kasonso
+situated at the confluence of two streams; he shook hands a long
+while, and seems a frank sort of man. A shower of rain set the driver
+ants on the move, and about two hours after we had turned in we were
+overwhelmed by them. They are called Kalandu or Nkalanda.
+
+To describe this attack is utterly impossible. I wakened covered with
+them: my hair was full of them. One by one they cut into the flesh,
+and the more they are disturbed, the more vicious are their bites;
+they become quite insolent. I went outside the hut, but there they
+swarmed everywhere; they covered the legs, biting furiously; it is
+only when they are tired that they leave off.
+
+One good trait of the Balungu up here is, they retire when they see
+food brought to anyone, neither Babisa nor Makoa had this sense of
+delicacy: the Babemba are equally polite.
+
+We have descended considerably into the broad valley of the Lake, and
+it feels warmer than on the heights. Cloth here is more valuable,
+inasmuch as bark-cloth is scarce. The skins of goats and wild animals
+are used, and the kilt is very diminutive among the women.
+
+_22nd March, 1867._--Cross Lo�la, thirty feet wide and one deep, and
+meet with tsetse fly, though we have seen none since we left
+Chitapangwa's. Kasonso gave us a grand reception, and we saw men
+present from Tanganyika; I saw cassava here, but not in plenty.
+
+_28th March, 1867._--Set-in rain and Chuma fell ill. There are cotton
+bushes of very large size here of the South American kind. After
+sleeping in various villages and crossing numerous streams, we came to
+Mombo's village, near the ridge overlooking the Lake.
+
+_31st March, and 1st April, 1867._--I was too ill to march through. I
+offered to go on the 1st, but Kasonso's son, who was with us,
+objected. We went up a low ridge of hills at its lowest part, and soon
+after passing the summit the blue water loomed through the trees. I
+was detained, but soon heard the boys firing their muskets on reaching
+the edge of the ridge, which allowed of an undisturbed view. This is
+the south-eastern end of Liemba, or, as it is sometimes called,
+Tanganyika.[50] We had to descend at least 2000 feet before we got to
+the level of the Lake. It seems about eighteen or twenty miles broad,
+and we could see about thirty miles up to the north. Four considerable
+rivers flow into the space before us. The nearly perpendicular ridge
+of about 2000 feet extends with breaks all around, and there,
+embosomed in tree-covered rocks, reposes the Lake peacefully in the
+huge cup-shaped cavity.
+
+I never saw anything so still and peaceful as it lies all the morning.
+About noon a gentle breeze springs up, and causes the waves to assume
+a bluish tinge. Several rocky islands rise in the eastern end, which
+are inhabited by fishermen, who capture abundance of fine large fish,
+of which they enumerate about twenty-four species. In the north it
+seems to narrow into a gateway, but the people are miserably deficient
+in geographical knowledge, and can tell us nothing about it. They
+suspect us, and we cannot get information, or indeed much of anything
+else. I feel deeply thankful at having got so far. I am excessively
+weak--cannot walk without tottering, and have constant singing in the
+head, but the Highest will lead me further.
+
+Lat. of the spot we touched at first, 2nd April, 1867. Lat. 8� 46' 54"
+S., long. 31� 57'; but I only worked out (and my head is out of order)
+one set of observations. Height above level of the sea over 2800 feet,
+by boiling-point thermometers and barometer. The people won't let me
+sound the Lake.
+
+After being a fortnight at this Lake it still appears one of
+surpassing loveliness. Its peacefulness is remarkable, though at times
+it is said to be lashed up by storms. It lies in a deep basin whose
+sides are nearly perpendicular, but covered well with trees; the rocks
+which appear are bright red argillaceous schist; the trees at present
+all green: down some of these rocks come beautiful cascades, and
+buffaloes, elephants, and antelopes wander and graze on the more level
+spots, while lions roar by night. The level place below is not two
+miles from the perpendicular. The village (Pamb�t�), at which we
+first touched the Lake, is surrounded by palm-oil trees--not the
+stunted ones of Lake Nyassa, but the real West Coast palm-oil
+tree,[51] requiring two men to carry a bunch of the ripe fruit. In the
+morning and evening huge crocodiles may be observed quietly making
+their way to their feeding grounds; hippopotami snort by night and at
+early morning.
+
+After I had been a few days here I had a fit of insensibility, which
+shows the power of fever without medicine. I found myself floundering
+outside my hut and unable to get in; I tried to lift myself from my
+back by laying hold of two posts at the entrance, but when I got
+nearly upright I let them go, and fell back heavily on my head on a
+box. The boys had seen the wretched state I was in, and hung a blanket
+at the entrance of the hut, that no stranger might see my
+helplessness; some hours elapsed before I could recognize where I was.
+
+As for these Balungu, as they are called, they have a fear of us, they
+do not understand our objects, and they keep aloof. They promise
+everything and do nothing; but for my excessive weakness we should go
+on, but we wait for a recovery of strength.
+
+As people they are greatly reduced in numbers by the Mazitu, who
+carried off very large numbers of the women, boys, girls, and
+children. They train or like to see the young men arrayed as Mazitu,
+but it would be more profitable if they kept them to agriculture. They
+are all excessively polite. The clapping of hands on meeting is
+something excessive, and then the string of salutations that accompany
+it would please the most fastidious Frenchman. It implies real
+politeness, for in marching with them they always remove branches out
+of the path, and indicate stones or stumps in it carefully to a
+stranger, yet we cannot prevail on them to lend carriers to examine
+the Lake or to sell goats, of which, however, they have very few, and
+all on one island.
+
+The Lake discharges its water north-westward or rather
+nor-north-westwards. We observe weeds going in that direction, and as
+the Lonzua, the Kow�, the Kapata, the Luaz�, the Kalambw�, flow into
+it near the east end, and the Lovu or Lofubu, or Lofu, from the
+south-west near the end it must find an exit for so much water. All
+these rivers rise in or near the Mambw� country, in lat. 10� S.,
+where, too, the Chambez� rises. Liemba is said to remain of about the
+same size as we go north-west, but this we shall see for ourselves.
+
+Elephants come all about us. One was breaking trees close by. I fired
+into his ear without effect: I am too weak to hold the gun steadily.
+
+_30th April, 1867._--We begin our return march from Liemba. Slept at a
+village on the Lake, and went on next day to Pamb�t�, where we first
+touched it. I notice that here the people pound tobacco-leaves in a
+mortar after they have undergone partial fermentation by lying in the
+sun, then they put the mass in the sun to dry for use.
+
+The reason why no palm-oil trees grow further east than Pamb�t� is
+said to be the stony soil there, and this seems a valid one, for it
+loves rich loamy meadows.
+
+_1st May, 1867._--We intended to go north-west to see whether this
+Lake narrows or not, for all assert that it maintains its breadth such
+as we see it beyond Pemba as far as they know it; but when about to
+start the headman and his wife came and protested so solemnly that by
+going N.W. we should walk into the hands of a party of Mazitu there,
+that we deferred our departure. It was not with a full persuasion of
+the truth of the statement that I consented, but we afterwards saw
+good evidence that it was true, and that we were saved from being
+plundered. These marauders have changed their tactics, for they
+demand so many people, and so many cloths, and then leave. They made
+it known that their next scene of mulcting would be Mombo's village,
+and there they took twelve people--four slaves, and many cloths, then
+went south to the hills they inhabit. A strict watch was kept on their
+movements by our headman and his men. They trust to fleeing into a
+thicket on the west of the village should the Mazitu come.
+
+I have been informed on good authority that Kasonso was on his way to
+us when news arrived that his young son had died. He had sent on beer
+and provisions for us, but the Mazitu intervening they were consumed.
+
+The Mazitu having left we departed and slept half-way up the ridge. I
+had another fit of insensibility last night: the muscles of the back
+lose all power,[52] and there is constant singing in the ears, and
+inability to do the simplest sum. Cross the Aeez� (which makes the
+waterfall) fifteen yards wide and knee deep. The streams like this are
+almost innumerable.
+
+Mombo's village. It is distressingly difficult to elicit accurate
+information about the Lake and rivers, because the people do not think
+accurately. Mombo declared that two Arabs came when we were below, and
+inquired for us, but he denied our presence, thinking thereby to save
+us trouble and harm.
+
+The cotton cultivated is of the Pernambuco species, and the bushes are
+seven or eight feet high. Much cloth was made in these parts before
+the Mazitu raids began, it was striped black and white, and many
+shawls are seen in the country yet. It is curious that this species of
+cotton should be found only in the middle of this country.
+
+In going westwards on the upland the country is level and covered
+with scraggy forest as usual, long lines of low hills or rather ridges
+of denudation run. N. and S. on our east. This is called Moami
+country, full of elephants, but few are killed. They do much damage,
+eating the sorghum in the gardens unmolested.
+
+_11th May, 1867._--A short march to-day brought us to a village on the
+same Moami, and to avoid a Sunday in the forest we remained. The
+elephants had come into the village and gone all about it, and to
+prevent their opening the corn safes the people had bedaubed them with
+elephant's droppings. When a cow would not give milk, save to its
+calf, a like device was used at Kolobeng; the cow's droppings were
+smeared on the teats, and the calf was too much disgusted to suck: the
+cow then ran till she was distressed by the milk fever and was willing
+to be relieved by the herdsman.
+
+_12th and 13th May, 1867._--News that the Arabs had been fighting with
+Nsama came, but this made us rather anxious to get northward along
+Liemba, and we made for Mokambola's village near the edge of the
+precipice which overhangs the Lake. Many Shuar� Raphia palms grow in
+the river which flows past it.
+
+As we began our descent we saw the Lofu coming from the west and
+entering Liemba. A projection of Liemba comes to meet it, and then it
+is said to go away to the north or north-west as far as my informants
+knew. Some pointed due north, others north-west, so probably its true
+course amounts to N.N.W. We came to a village about 2' W. of the
+confluence, whose headman was affable and generous. The village has a
+meadow some four miles wide on the land side, in which buffaloes
+disport themselves, but they are very wild, and hide in the gigantic
+grasses. Sorghum, ground-nuts, and voandzeia grow luxuriantly. The
+Lofu is a quarter of a mile wide, but higher up three hundred yards.
+The valley was always clouded over at night so I could not get an
+observation except early in the morning when the cold had dissipated
+the clouds.
+
+We remained here because two were lame, and all tired by the descent
+of upwards of 2000 feet, and the headman sent for fish for us. He
+dissuaded us strongly from attempting to go down the Liemba, as the
+son of Nsania (Kapoma) was killing all who came that way in revenge
+for what the Arabs had done to his father's people, and he might take
+us for Arabs. A Suaheli Arab came in the evening and partly confirmed
+the statements of the headman of Karambo; I resolved therefore to go
+back to Chitimba's in the south, where the chief portion of the Arabs
+are assembled, and hear from them more certainly.
+
+The last we heard of Liemba was that at a great way north-west, it is
+dammed up by rocks, and where it surmounts these there is a great
+waterfall. It does not, it is said, diminish in size so far, but by
+bearings protracted it is two miles wide.
+
+_18th May, 1867._--Return to Mokambola's village, and leave for
+Chitimba's. Baraka stopped behind at the village, and James ran away
+to him, leaving his bundle, containing three chronometers, in the
+path: I sent back for them, and James came up in the evening; he had
+no complaint, and no excuse to make. The two think it will be easy to
+return to their own country by begging, though they could not point it
+out to me when we were much nearer to where it is supposed to be.
+
+_19th May, 1867._--Where we were brought to a standstill was miserably
+cold (55�), so we had prayers and went on S. and S.W. to the village
+of Chis�ka.
+
+_20th May, 1867._--Chitimba's village was near in the same direction;
+here we found a large party of Arabs, mostly black Suahelis. They
+occupied an important portion of the stockaded village, and when I
+came in, politely showed me to a shed where they are in the habit of
+meeting. After explaining whence I had come, I showed them the
+Sultan's letter. Harnees presented a goat, two fowls, and a quantity
+of flour. It was difficult to get to the bottom of the Nsama affair,
+but according to their version that chief sent an invitation to them,
+and when they arrived called for his people, who came in crowds--as he
+said to view the strangers. I suspect that the Arabs became afraid of
+the crowds and began to fire; several were killed on both sides, and
+Nsama fled, leaving his visitors in possession of the stockaded
+village and all it contained. Others say that there was a dispute
+about an elephant, and that Nsama's people were the aggressors. At any
+rate it is now all confusion; those who remain at Nsama's village help
+themselves to food in the surrounding villages and burn them, while
+Chitimba has sent for the party who are quartered here to come to him.
+An hour or two after we arrived a body of men came from Kasonso, with
+the intention of proceeding into the country of Nsama, and if possible
+catching Nsama, "he having broken public law by attacking people who
+brought merchandise into the country." This new expedition makes the
+Arabs resolve to go and do what they can to injure their enemy. It
+will just be a plundering foray--each catching what he can, whether
+animal or human, and retiring when it is no longer safe to plunder!
+
+This throws the barrier of a broad country between me and Lake "Moero"
+in the west, but I trust in Providence a way will be opened. I think
+now of going southwards and then westwards, thus making a long d�tour
+round the disturbed district.
+
+The name of the principal Arab is Hamees Wodim Tagh, the other is Syde
+bin Alie bin Mansure: they are connected with one of the most
+influential native mercantile houses in Zanzibar. Hamees has been
+particularly kind to me in presenting food, beads, cloth, and getting
+information. Thami bin Snaelim is the Arab to whom my goods are
+directed at Ujiji.
+
+_24th May, 1867._--At Chitimba's we are waiting to see what events
+turn up to throw light on our western route. Some of the Arabs and
+Kasonso's men went off to-day: they will bring information perhaps as
+to Nsama's haunts, and then we shall move south and thence west. Wrote
+to Sir Thomas Maclear, giving the position of Liemba and to Dr.
+Seward, in case other letters miscarry. The hot season is beginning
+now. This corresponds to July further south.
+
+Three goats were killed by a leopard close to the village in open day.
+
+_28th May, 1867._--Information came that Nsama begged pardon of the.
+Arabs, and would pay all that they had lost. He did not know of his
+people stealing from them: we shall hear in a day or two whether the
+matter is to be patched up or not. While some believe his statements,
+others say, "Nsama's words of peace are simply to gain time to make
+another stockade:" in the mean time Kasonso's people will ravage all
+his country on this eastern side.
+
+Hamees is very anxious that I should remain a few days longer, till
+Kasonso's son, Kampamba, comes with _certain_ information, and then he
+will see to our passing safely to Chiw�r�'s village from Kasonso's.
+All have confidence in this last-named chief as an upright man.
+
+_1st June, 1867._--Another party of marauders went off this morning to
+plunder Nsama's country to the west of the confluence of the Lofu as a
+punishment for a breach of public law. The men employed are not very
+willing to go, but when they taste the pleasure of plunder they will
+relish it more!
+
+The watershed begins to have a northern slope about Moamba's, lat. 10�
+10' S., but the streams are very tortuous, and the people have very
+confused ideas as to where they run. The Lokhopa, for instance, was
+asserted by all the men at Moamba's to flow into Lokholu, and then
+into a river going to Liemba, but a young wife of Moamba, who seemed
+very intelligent, maintained that Lokhopa and Lokholu went to the
+Chambez�; I therefore put it down thus. The streams which feed the
+Chambez� and the Liemba overlap each other, and it would require a
+more extensive survey than I can give to disentangle them.
+
+North of Moamba, on the Mereng�, the slope begins to Liemba. The Lofu
+rises in Chibu�'s country, and with its tributaries we have long
+ridges of denudation, each some 500 or 600 feet high, and covered with
+green trees. The valleys of denudation enclosed by these hill ranges
+guide the streams towards Liemba or the four rivers which flow into
+it. The country gradually becomes lower, warmer, and tsetse and
+mosquitoes appear; so at last we come to the remarkable cup-shaped
+cavity in which Liemba reposes. Several streams fall down the nearly
+perpendicular cliffs, and form beautiful cascades. The lines of
+denudation are continued, one range rising behind another as far as
+the eye can reach to the north and east of Liemba, and probably the
+slope continues away down to Tanganyika. The watershed extends
+westwards to beyond Casembe, and the Luapula, or Chambez�, rises in
+the same parallels of latitude as does the Lofu and the Lonzna.
+
+The Arabs inform me that between this and the sea, about 200 miles
+distant, lies the country of the Wasango--called: Usango--a fair
+people, like Portuguese, and very friendly to strangers. The Wasango
+possess plenty of cattle: their chief is called Mer�r�.[53] They count
+this twenty-five days, while the distance thence to the sea at
+Bagamoio is one month and twenty-five days--say 440 miles. Uch�r� is
+very far off northwards, but a man told me that he went to a
+salt-manufactory in that direction in eight days from Kasonso's.
+Mer�r� goes frequently on marauding expeditions for cattle, and is
+instigated thereto by his mother.
+
+What we understand by primeval forest is but seldom seen in the
+interior here, though the country cannot be described otherwise than
+as generally covered with interminable forests. Insects kill or dwarf
+some trees, and men maim others for the sake of the bark-cloth;
+elephants break down a great number, and it is only here and there
+that gigantic specimens are seen: they may be expected in shut-in
+valleys among mountains, but on the whole the trees are scraggy, and
+the varieties not great. The different sorts of birds which sing among
+the branches seem to me to exceed those of the Zambesi region, but I
+do not shoot them: the number of new notes I hear astonishes me.
+
+The country in which we now are is called by the Arabs and natives
+Ulungu, that farther north-west is named Marunga. Hamees is on
+friendly terms with the Mazitu (Watuta) in the east, who do not
+plunder. The chief sent a man to Kasonso lately, and he having
+received a present went away highly pleased.
+
+Hamees is certainly very anxious to secure my safety. Some men came
+from the N.E. to inquire about the disturbance here and they recommend
+that I should go with them, and then up the east side of the Lake to
+Ujiji; but that would ruin my plan of discovering Moero and afterwards
+following the watershed, so as to be certain that this is either the
+watershed of the Congo or Kile. He was not well pleased when I
+preferred to go south and then westwards, as it looks like rejecting
+his counsel; but he said if I waited till his people came, then we
+should be able to speak with more certainty.
+
+On inquiring if any large mountains exist in this country, I was told
+that Moufipa, or Fipa, opposite the lower end of the Lake, is
+largest--one can see Tanganyika from it. It probably gives rise to the
+Nkalambw� River and the Luaz�.
+
+There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are busy in
+preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst the women are
+cleaning or grinding their corn, which involves much hard labour. They
+first dry this in the sun, then put it into a mortar, and afterwards
+with a flat basket clean off the husks and the dust, and grind it
+between two stones, the next thing is to bring wood and water to cook
+it. The chief here was aroused the other day, and threatened to burn
+his own house and all his property because the people stole from it,
+but he did not proceed so far: it was probably a way of letting the
+Arab dependants know that he was aroused.
+
+Some of the people who went to fight attacked a large village, and
+killed several men; but in shooting in a bushy place they killed one
+of their own party and wounded another.
+
+On inquiring of an Arab who had sailed on Tanganyika which way the
+water flowed, he replied to the south!
+
+The wagtails build in the thatch of the huts; they are busy, and men
+and other animals are active in the same way.
+
+I am rather perplexed how to proceed. Some Arabs seem determined to go
+westwards as soon as they can make it up with Nsama, whilst others
+distrust him. One man will send his people to pick up what ivory they
+can, but he himself will retire to the Usango country. Nsama is
+expected to-day or to-morrow. It would be such a saving of time and
+fatigue for us to go due west rather than south, and then west, but I
+feel great hesitation as to setting out on the circuitous route.
+Several Arabs came from the Liemba side yesterday; one had sailed on
+Tanganyika, and described the winds there as very baffling, but no one
+of them has a clear idea of the Lake. They described the lower part as
+a "sea," and thought it different from Tanganyika.
+
+Close observation of the natives of Ulungu makes me believe them to
+be extremely polite. The mode of salutation among relatives is to
+place the hands round each other's chests kneeling, they then clap
+their hands close to the ground. Some more abject individuals kiss the
+soil before a chief; the generality kneel only, with the fore-arms
+close to the ground, and the head bowed down to them, saying, "O
+Ajadla chiusa, Mari a bwino." The Usanga say, "Aj� senga." The
+clapping of hands to superiors, and even equals, is in some villages a
+perpetually recurring sound. Aged persons are usually saluted: how
+this extreme deference to each other could have arisen, I cannot
+conceive; it does not seem to be fear of each other that elicits it.
+Even the chiefs inspire no fear, and those cruel old platitudes about
+governing savages by fear seem unknown, yet governed they certainly
+are, and upon the whole very well. The people were not very willing to
+go to punish Nsama's breach of public law, yet, on the decision of the
+chiefs, they went, and came back, one with a wooden stool, another
+with a mat, a third with a calabash of ground-nuts or some dried meat,
+a hoe, or a bow--poor, poor pay for a fortnight's hard work hunting
+fugitives and burning villages.
+
+_16th June, 1867._--News came to-day that an Arab party in the
+south-west, in Lunda, lost about forty people by the small-pox
+("ndu�"), and that the people there, having heard of the disturbance
+with Nsama, fled from the Arabs, and would sell neither ivory nor
+food: this looks like another obstacle to our progress thither.
+
+_17th-19th June, 1867._--Hamees went to meet the party from the
+south-west, probably to avoid bringing the small-pox here. They remain
+at about two hours' distance. Hamees reports that though the strangers
+had lost a great many people by small-pox, they had brought good news
+of certain Arabs still further west: one, Seide ben Umale, or Salem,
+lived at a village near Casembe, ten days distant, and another, Juma
+Merikano, or Katata Katanga, at another village further north, and
+Seide ben Habib was at Phueto, which is nearer Tanganyika. This party
+comprises the whole force of Hamees, and he now declares that he will
+go to Nsama and make the matter up, as he thinks that he is afraid to
+come here, and so he will make the first approach to friendship.
+
+On pondering over the whole subject, I see that, tiresome as it is to
+wait, it is better to do so than go south and then west, for if I
+should go I shall miss seeing Moero, which is said to be three days
+from Nsama's present abode. His people go there for salt, and I could
+not come to it from the south without being known to them, and perhaps
+considered to be an Arab. Hamees remarked that it was the Arab way
+first to smooth the path before entering upon it; sending men and
+presents first, thereby ascertaining the disposition of the
+inhabitants. He advises patience, and is in hopes of making a peace
+with Nsama. That his hopes are not unreasonable, he mentioned that
+when the disturbance began, Nsama sent men with two tusks to the
+village whence he had just been expelled, offering thereby to make the
+matter up, but the Arabs, suspecting treachery, fired upon the
+carriers and killed them, then ten goats and one tusk were sent with
+the same object, and met with a repulse; Hamees thinks that had he
+been there himself the whole matter would have been settled amicably.
+
+All complain of cold here. The situation is elevated, and we are
+behind a clump of trees on the rivulet Chiloa, which keeps the sun off
+us in the mornings. This cold induces the people to make big fires in
+their huts, and frequently their dwellings are burned. Minimum
+temperature is as low as 46�; sometimes 33�.
+
+_24th June, 1867._--The Arabs are all busy reading their Koran, or
+Kur�n, and in praying for direction; to-morrow they will call a
+meeting to deliberate as to what steps they will take in the Nsama
+affair. Hamees, it seems, is highly thought of by that chief, who
+says, "Let him come, and all will be right." Hamees proposes to go
+with but a few people. These Zanzibar men are very different from the
+slavers of the Waiyau country.
+
+_25th June, 1867._--The people, though called, did not assemble, but
+they will come to-morrow.
+
+Young wagtails nearly full-fledged took wing, leaving one in the nest;
+from not being molested by the people they took no precautions, and
+ran out of the nest on the approach of the old ones, making a loud
+chirping. The old ones tried to induce the last one to come out too,
+by flying to the nest, and then making a sally forth, turning round
+immediately to see if he followed: he took a few days longer.
+
+It was decided at the meeting that Hamees, with a few people only,
+should go to Nsama on the first day after the appearance of the new
+moon (they are very particular on this point); the present month
+having been an unhappy one they will try the next.
+
+_28th June, 1867._--A wedding took place among the Arabs to-day. About
+a hundred blank cartridges were fired off, and a procession of males,
+dressed in their best, marched through the village. They sang with all
+their might, though with but little music in the strain. Women
+sprinkled grain on their heads as wishes for plenty.[54]
+
+Nsama is said to be waiting for the Arabs in his new stockade. It is
+impossible to ascertain exactly who is to blame in this matter, for I
+hear one side only; but the fact of the chiefs in this part of the
+country turning out so readily to punish his breach of public law, and
+no remonstrance coming from him, makes me suspect that Nsama is the
+guilty party. If he had been innocent he certainly would have sent to
+ask the Bulungu, or B�ulungu, why they had attacked his people without
+cause.
+
+
+[Here is an entry concerning the tribe living far to the East.]
+
+
+The Wasongo seem much like Zulus; they go naked, and have prodigious
+numbers of cattle, which occupy the same huts with their owners. Oxen
+two shukahs each; plenty of milk. Mer�r� is very liberal with his
+cattle, and gives every one an ox: there is no rice, but maize and
+ma�re. Hamees left the people to cultivate rice. Mer�r� had plenty of
+ivory when the Arabs came first, but now has none.
+
+_1st July, 1867._--New moon to-day. They are very particular as to the
+time of offering up prayers, and in making charms. One to-night was at
+10 P.M. exactly.
+
+A number of cabalistic figures were drawn by Halfani, and it is
+believed that by these Nsama's whereabouts may be ascertained; they
+are probably remains of the secret arts which prevailed among Arabs
+before Mahomet appeared. These Suaheli Arabs appear to have come down
+the coast before that Prophet was born.
+
+_3rd July, 1867._--Kasonso's people are expected. All the captives
+that were taken are to be returned, and a quantity of cloth given to
+Nsama in addition: so far all seems right. The new moon will appear
+to-night. The Arabs count from one appearance to the next, not, as we
+do, from its conjunction with the sun to the next.
+
+_4th July, 1867._--Katawanya came from near Liemba to join the
+peacemakers. He and his party arrived at Liemba after we did; he sent
+his people all round to seek ivory; they don't care for anything but
+ivory, and cannot understand why I don't do the same.
+
+_6th July, 1867._--An earthquake happened at 3.30 P.M., accompanied
+with a hollow rumbling sound; it made me feel as if afloat, but it
+lasted only a few seconds. The boys came running to ask me what it
+was. Nowhere could it be safer; the huts will not fall, and there are
+no high rocks near. Barometer 25.0. Temperature 68� 5'. Heavy cumuli
+hanging about; no rain afterwards.
+
+_7th July, 1867._--Hamees started this morning with about 300
+followers dressed in all their finery, and he declares that his sole
+object is peace. Kasonso, Mombo, Chitimba send their people, and go
+themselves to lend all their influence in favour of peace. Syde stops
+here. Before starting Syde put some incense on hot coals, and all the
+leaders of the party joined in a short prayer; they seem earnest and
+sincere in their incantations, according to their knowledge and
+belief. I wished to go too, but Hamees objected, as not being quite
+sure whether Nsama would be friendly, and he would not like anything
+to befall me when with him.
+
+_8th July, 1867._--Kasonso found an excuse for not going himself. Two
+men, Arabs it was said, came to Chibu�'s and were there killed, and
+Kasonso must go to see about it. The people who go carry food with
+them, evidently not intending to live by plunder this time.
+
+While the peacemakers are gone I am employing time in reading Smith's
+'Bible Dictionary,' and calculating different positions which have
+stood over in travelling. I don't succeed well in the B�ulungu
+dialect.
+
+The owners of huts lent to strangers have a great deal of toil
+in consequence; they have to clean them after the visitors have
+withdrawn; then, in addition to this, to clean themselves, all
+soiled by the dust left by the lodgers; their bodies and clothes
+have to be cleansed afterwards--they add food too in all cases of
+acquaintanceship, and then we have to remember the labour of preparing
+that food. My remaining here enables me to observe that both men and
+women are in almost constant employment. The men are making mats, or
+weaving, or spinning; no one could witness their assiduity in their
+little affairs and conclude that they were a lazy people. The only
+idle time I observe here is in the mornings about seven o'clock, when
+all come and sit to catch the first rays of the sun as he comes over
+our clump of trees, but even that time is often taken as an
+opportunity for stringing beads.
+
+I hear that some of Nsama's people crossed the Lovu at Karambo to
+plunder, in retaliation for what they have suffered, and the people
+there were afraid to fish, lest they should be caught by them at a
+distance from their stockades.
+
+The B�ulungu men are in general tall and well formed, they use bows
+over six feet in length, and but little bent. The facial angle is as
+good in most cases as in Europeans, and they have certainly as little
+of the "lark-heel" as whites. One or two of the under front teeth are
+generally knocked out in women, and also in men.
+
+_14th July, 1867._--Syde added to his other presents some more beads:
+all have been very kind, which I attribute in a great measure to Seyed
+Majid's letter. Hamees crossed the Lovu to-day at a fordable spot. The
+people on the other side refused to go with a message to Nsama, so
+Hamees had to go and compel them by destroying their stockade. A
+second village acted in the same way, though told that it was only
+peace that was sought of Nsama: this stockade suffered the same fate,
+and then the people went to Nsama, and he showed no reluctance to have
+intercourse. He gave abundance of food, pombe, and bananas; the
+country being extremely fertile. Nsama also came and ratified the
+peace by drinking blood with several of the underlings of Hamees. He
+is said to be an enormously bloated old man, who cannot move unless
+carried, and women are constantly in attendance pouring pombe into
+him. He gave Hamees ten tusks, and promised him twenty more, and also
+to endeavour to make his people return what goods they plundered from
+the Arabs, and he is to send his people over here to call us after
+the new moon appears.
+
+It is tiresome beyond measure to wait so long, but I hope to see Moero
+for this exercise of patience, and I could not have visited it had
+Hamees not succeeded in making peace.
+
+_17th July, 1867._--A lion roared very angrily at the village last
+night, he was probably following the buffaloes that sometimes come
+here to drink at night: they are all very shy, and so is all the game,
+from fear of arrows.
+
+A curious disease has attacked my left eyelid and surrounding parts: a
+slight degree of itchiness is followed by great swelling of the part.
+It must be a sort of lichen; exposure to the sun seems to cure it, and
+this leads me to take long walks therein. This is about 30� 19' E.
+long.; lat. 8� 57' 55" S.
+
+_24th July, 1867._--A fire broke out at 4 A.M., and there being no
+wind the straw roofs were cleared off in front of it on our side of
+the village. The granaries were easily unroofed, as the roof is not
+attached to the walls, and the Arabs tried to clear a space on their
+side, but were unable, and then moved all their ivory and goods
+outside the stockade; their side of the village was all consumed, and
+three goats perished in the flames.
+
+Chitimba has left us from a fear of his life, he says; it is probable
+that he means this flight to be used as an excuse to Nsama after we
+are gone. "And I, too, was obliged to flee from my village to save my
+life! What could I do?" This is to be his argument, I suspect.
+
+A good many slaves came from the two villages that were destroyed: on
+inquiry I was told that these would be returned when Nsama gave the
+ivory promised.
+
+When Nsama was told that an Englishman wished to go past him to Moero,
+he replied, "Bring him, and I shall send men to take him thither."
+
+Hamees is building a "temb�," or house, with a flat roof, and walls
+plastered over with mud, to keep his ivory from fire while he is
+absent. We expect that Nsama will send for us a few days after the 2nd
+August, when the new moon appears; if they do not come soon Hamees
+will send men to Nsama without waiting for his messengers.
+
+_28th July, 1867._--Prayers, with the Litany.[55] Slavery is a great
+evil wherever I have seen it. A poor old woman and child are among the
+captives, the boy about three years old seems a mother's pet. His feet
+are sore from walking in the sun. He was offered for two fathoms, and
+his mother for one fathom; he understood it all, and cried bitterly,
+clinging to his mother. She had, of course, no power to help him; they
+were separated at Karungu afterwards.
+
+[The above is an episode of every-day occurrence in the wake of the
+slave-dealer. "Two fathoms," mentioned as the price of the boy's
+life--the more valuable of the two, means four yards of unbleached
+calico, which is a universal article of barter throughout the greater
+part of Africa: the mother was bought for two yards. The reader must
+not think that there are no lower prices; in the famines which succeed
+the slave-dealer's raids, boys and girls are at times to be purchased
+by the dealer for a few handfuls of maize.]
+
+_29th July, 1867._--Went 2 1/2 hours west to village of Ponda, where a
+head Arab, called by the natives Tipo Tipo, lives; his name is Hamid
+bin Mahamed bin Juma Borajib. He presented a goat, a piece of white
+calico, and four big bunches of beads, also a bag of Holcus sorghum,
+and apologised because it was so little. He had lost much by Nsama;
+and received two arrow wounds there; they had only twenty guns at the
+time, but some were in the stockade, and though the people of Nsama
+were very numerous they beat them off, and they fled carrying the
+bloated carcase of Nsama with them. Some reported that boxes were
+found in the village, which belonged to parties who had perished
+before, but Syde assured me that this was a mistake.
+
+Moero is three days distant, and as Nsama's people go thither to
+collect salt on its banks, it would have been impossible for me to
+visit it from the south without being seen, and probably suffering
+loss.
+
+The people seem to have no family names. A man takes the name of his
+mother, or should his father die he may assume that. Marriage is
+forbidden to the first, second, and third degrees: they call first and
+second cousins brothers and sisters.
+
+A woman, after cupping her child's temples for sore eyes, threw the
+blood over the roof of her hut as a charm.
+
+[In the above process a goat's horn is used with a small hole in the
+pointed end. The base is applied to the part from which the blood is
+to be withdrawn, and the operator, with a small piece of chewed
+india-rubber in his mouth, exhausts the air, and at the proper moment
+plasters the small hole up with his tongue. When the cupping-horn is
+removed, some cuts are made with a small knife, and it is again
+applied. As a rough appliance, it is a very good one, and in great
+repute everywhere.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[50] It subsequently proved to be the southern extremity of this great
+Lake.
+
+[51] Elais, sp.(?).
+
+[52] This is a common symptom--men will suddenly lose all power in the
+lower extremities, and remain helpless where they fall.--ED.
+
+[53] The men heard in 1873 that he had been killed.
+
+[54] This comes near to the custom of throwing rice after the bride
+and bridegroom in England.--ED.
+
+[55] In his Journal the Doctor writes "S," and occasionally "Service,"
+whenever a Sunday entry occurs. We may add that at all times during
+his travels the Services of the Church of England were resorted to by
+him.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious
+    spider. Reach the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees marries
+    the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride. Conflagration in
+    Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero. Arab burial. Serious
+    illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders on the march. Reaches
+    Moero. Description of the Lake. Information concerning the
+    Chambez� and Luapula. Hears of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr.
+    Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of Livingstone's approach.
+    Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofw�. Arrives at Casembe's
+    town.
+
+
+_1st August, 1867._--Hamees sends off men to trade at Chiwer�'s.
+_Zikw�_ is the name for locust here. Nsig� or Zig� and Pansi the
+Suaheli names.
+
+A perforated stone had been placed on one of the poles which form the
+gateway into this stockade, it is oblong, seven or eight inches long
+by four broad, and bevelled off on one side and the diameter of the
+hole in the middle is about an inch and a half: it shows evidence of
+the boring process in rings. It is of hard porphyry and of a pinkish
+hue, and resembles somewhat a weight for a digging stick I saw in 1841
+in the hands of a Bushwoman: I saw one at a gateway near Kasonso's.
+The people know nothing of its use except as a charm to keep away evil
+from the village.
+
+_2nd August, 1867._--Chronometer A. stopped to-day without any
+apparent cause except the earthquake.
+
+It is probably malaria which causes that constant singing in the ears
+ever since my illness at Lake Liemba.
+
+_3rd August, 1867._--We expect a message from Nsama every day, the
+new moon having appeared on the first of this month, and he was to
+send after its appearance.
+
+_5th August, 1867._--Men came yesterday with the message that Hamees
+must wait a little longer, as Nsama had not yet got all the ivory and
+the goods which were stolen: they remained over yesterday. The
+headman, Katala, says that Lunda is eight days from Nsama or Moero,
+and in going we cross a large river called Movue, which flows into
+Luapula; another river called Mokobwa comes from the south-east into
+Moero. Itawa is the name of Nsama's country and people.
+
+A day distant from Nsama's place there is a hot fountain called "Paka
+pezhia," and around it the earth shakes at times: it is possible that
+the earthquake we felt here may be connected with this same centre of
+motion.
+
+_6th August, 1867._--The weather is becoming milder. An increase of
+cold was caused by the wind coming from the south. We have good
+accounts of the Wasongo from all the Arabs, their houses built for
+cattle are flat-roofed and enormously large; one, they say, is a
+quarter of a mile long. Mer�r� the chief has his dwelling-house within
+it: milk, butter, cheese, are in enormous quantities; the tribe, too,
+is very large. I fear that they may be spoiled by the Arab underlings.
+
+_7th August, 1867._--Some of my people went down to Karambo and were
+detained by the chief, who said "I won't let you English go away and
+leave me in trouble with these Arabs."
+
+A slave had been given in charge to a man here and escaped, the Arabs
+hereupon went to Karambo and demanded payment from the chief there; he
+offered clothing, but they refused it, and would have a man; he then
+offered a man, but this man having two children they demanded all
+three. They bully as much as they please by their fire-arms. After
+being spoken to by my people the Arabs came away. The chief begged
+that I would come and visit him once more, for only one day, but it
+is impossible, for we expect to move directly. I sent the information
+to Hamees, who replied that they had got a clue to the man who was
+wiling away their slaves from them. My people saw others of the low
+squad which always accompanies the better-informed Arabs bullying the
+people of another village, and taking fowls and food without payment.
+Slavery makes a bad neighbourhood!
+
+Hamees is on friendly terms with a tribe of Mazitu who say that they
+have given up killing people. They lifted a great many cattle, but
+have very few now; some of them came with him to show the way to
+Kasonso's.
+
+Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business is carried
+on in Zanzibar slave-market. A man goes about calling out the price he
+wants for the slave, who walks behind him; if a woman, she is taken
+into a hut to be examined in a state of nudity.
+
+Some of the Arabs believe that meteoric stones are thrown at Satan for
+his wickedness. They believe that cannon were taken up Kilimanjaro by
+the first Arabs who came into the country, and there they lie. They
+deny that Van der Decken did more than go round a portion of the base
+of the mountain; he could not get on the mass of the mountain: all his
+donkeys and some of his men died by the cold. Hamees seems to be
+Cooley's great geographical oracle!
+
+The information one can cull from the Arabs respecting the country on
+the north-west is very indefinite. They magnify the difficulties in
+the way by tales of the cannibal tribes, where anyone dying is bought
+and no one ever buried, but this does not agree with the fact, which
+also is asserted, that the cannibals have plenty of sheep and goats.
+The Rua is about ten days west of Tanganyika, and five days beyond it
+a lake or river ten miles broad is reached; it is said to be called
+Logaraw�. All the water flows northwards, but no reliance can be
+placed on the statements. Kiombo is said to be chief of Rua country.
+
+Another man asserts that Tanganyika flows northwards and forms a large
+water beyond Uganda, but no dependence can be placed on the statements
+of these half Arabs; they pay no attention to anything but ivory and
+food.
+
+_25th August, 1867._--Nsama requested the Arabs to give back his son
+who was captured; some difficulty was made about this by his captor,
+but Hamees succeeded in getting him and about nine others, and they
+are sent off to-day. We wait only for the people, who are scattered
+about the country. Hamees presented cakes, flour, a fowl and leg of
+goat, with a piece of eland meat: this animal goes by the same name
+here as at Kolobeng--"Pofu."[56]
+
+A fig-tree here has large knobs on the bark, like some species of
+acacia; and another looks like the Malolo of the Zambesi magnified. A
+yellow wood gives an odour like incense when burned.
+
+A large spider makes a nest inside the huts. It consists of a piece of
+pure white paper, an inch and a half broad, stuck flat on the wall;
+under this some forty or fifty eggs are placed, and then a quarter of
+an inch of thinner paper is put round it, apparently to fasten the
+first firmly. When making the paper the spider moves itself over the
+surface in wavy lines; she then sits on it with her eight legs spread
+over all for three weeks continuously, catching and eating any
+insects, as cockroaches, that come near her nest. After three weeks
+she leaves it to hunt for food, but always returns at night: the
+natives do not molest it.
+
+A small ant masters the common fly by seizing a wing or leg, and
+holding on till the fly is tired out; at first the fly can move about
+on the wing without inconvenience, but it is at last obliged to
+succumb to an enemy very much smaller than itself.
+
+A species of Touraco, new to me, has a broad yellow mask on the upper
+part of the bill and forehead; the topknot is purple, the wings the
+same as in other species, but the red is roseate. The yellow of the
+mask plates is conspicuous at a distance.
+
+A large callosity forms on the shoulders of the regular Unyamwesi
+porters, from the heavy weights laid on them. I have noticed them an
+inch and a half thick along the top of the shoulders. An old man was
+pointed out to me who had once carried five frasilahs (= 175 lbs.) of
+ivory from his own country to the coast.
+
+_30th August, 1867._--We marched to-day from Chitimba's village after
+three months and ten days' delay. On reaching Ponda, 2-1/2 hours
+distant, we found Tipo Tipo, or Hamidi bin Mohamad, gone on, and so we
+followed him. Passed a fine stream flowing S.W. to the Lofu. Tipo Tipo
+gave me a fine fat goat.
+
+_31st August, 1867._--Pass along a fine undulating district, with much
+country covered with forest, but many open glades, and fine large
+trees along the water-courses. We were on the northern slope of the
+watershed, and could see far. Crossed two fine rivulets. The oozes
+still full and flowing.
+
+_1st September, 1867._--We had to march in the afternoon on account of
+a dry patch existing in the direct way. We slept without water, though
+by diverging a few miles to the north we should have crossed many
+streams, but this is the best path for the whole year.
+
+Baraka went back to Tipo Tipo's village, thus putting his intention of
+begging among the Arab slaves into operation. He has only one
+complaint, and that is dislike to work. He tried perseveringly to get
+others to run away with him; lost the medicine-box, six table-cloths,
+and all our tools by giving his load off to a country lad while he
+went to collect mushrooms: he will probably return to Zanzibar, and be
+a slave to the Arab slaves after being a perpetual nuisance to us for
+upwards of a year.
+
+_2nd September, 1867._--When we reached the ford of the Lofu, we found
+that we were at least a thousand feet below Chitimba's. The last six
+hours of our march were without water, but when near to Chungu's
+village at the ford we came to fine flowing rivulets, some ten feet or
+so broad. Here we could see westwards and northwards the long lines of
+hills of denudation in Nsama's country, which till lately was densely
+peopled. Nsama is of the Babemba family. Kasonso, Chitimba, Kiw�,
+Urongw�, are equals and of one family, Urungai. Chungu is a pleasant
+person, and liberal according to his means. Large game is very
+abundant through all this country.
+
+The Lofu at the ford was 296 feet, the water flowing briskly over
+hardened sandstone flag, and from thigh to waist deep; elsewhere it is
+a little narrower, but not passable except by canoes.
+
+_4th and 5th September, 1867._--Went seven hours west of the Lofu to a
+village called Hara, one of those burned by Hamees because the people
+would not take a peaceful message to Nsama. This country is called
+Itawa, and Hara is one of the districts. We waited at Hara to see if
+Nsama wished us any nearer to himself. He is very much afraid of the
+Arabs, and well he may be, for he was until lately supposed to be
+invincible. He fell before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic
+throughout the country. The land is full of food, though the people
+have nearly all fled. The ground-nuts are growing again for want of
+reapers; and 300 people living at free-quarters make no impression on
+the food.
+
+_9th September, 1867._--Went three hours west of Hara, and came to
+Nsama's new stockade, built close by the old one burned by Tipo Tipo,
+as Hamidi bin Mohamed was named by Nsama.[57] I sent a message to
+Nsama, and received an invitation to come and visit him, but bring no
+guns. A large crowd of his people went with us, and before we came to
+the inner stockade they felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were
+concealed about my person. When we reached Nsama, we found a very old
+man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, showing that he
+was addicted to pombe: his people have to carry him. I gave him a
+cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, which he readily granted, and
+asked leave to feel my clothes and hair. I advised him to try and live
+at peace, but his people were all so much beyond the control of
+himself and headmen, that at last, after scolding them, he told me
+that he would send for me by night, and then we could converse, but
+this seems to have gone out of his head. He sent me a goat, flour, and
+pombe, and next day we returned to Hara.
+
+Nsama's people have generally small, well-chiseled features, and many
+are really handsome, and have nothing of the West Coast Negro about
+them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and greatly disfigure
+their mouths. The only difference between them and Europeans is the
+colour. Many of the men have very finely-formed heads, and so have the
+women; and the fashion of wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to
+advantage. The forehead is shaved off to the crown, the space
+narrowing as it goes up; then the back hair, is arranged into knobs of
+about ten rows.
+
+_10th September, 1867._--Some people of Ujiji have come to Nsama's to
+buy ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled
+them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, or rather
+canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands. My goods are reported
+safe, and the meat of the buffaloes which died in the way is there,
+and sun-dried. I sent a box, containing papers, books, and some
+clothes, to Ujiji.
+
+_14th September, 1867._--I remained at Hara, for I was ill, and Hamees
+had no confidence in Nsama, because he promised his daughter to wife
+by way of cementing the peace, but had not given her. Nsama also told
+Hamees to stay at Hara, and he would send him ivory for sale, but none
+came, nor do people come here to sell provisions, as they do
+elsewhere; so Hamees will return to Chitimba's, to guard his people
+and property there, and send on Syde Hamidi and his servants to
+Lop�r�, Kabuir�, and Moero, to buy ivory. He advised me to go with
+them, as he has no confidence in Nsama; and Hamidi thought that this
+was the plan to be preferred: it would be slower, as they would
+purchase ivory on the road, but safer to pass his country altogether
+than trust myself in his power.
+
+The entire population of the country has received a shock from the
+conquest of Nsama, and their views of the comparative values of bows
+and arrows and guns have undergone a great change. Nsama was the
+Napoleon of these countries; no one could stand before him, hence the
+defeat of the invincible Nsama has caused a great panic. The Arabs say
+that they lost about fifty men in all: Nsama must have lost at least
+an equal number. The people seem intelligent, and will no doubt act on
+the experience so dearly bought.
+
+In the midst of the doubts of Hamees a daughter of Nsama came this
+afternoon to be a wife and cementer of the peace! She came riding
+"pickaback" on a man's shoulders; a nice, modest, good-looking young
+woman, her hair rubbed all over with _nkola_, a red pigment, made from
+the camwood, and much used as an ornament. She was accompanied by
+about a dozen young and old female attendants, each carrying a small
+basket with some provisions, as cassava, ground-nuts, &c. The Arabs
+were all dressed in their finery, and the slaves, in fantastic
+dresses, flourished swords, fired guns, and yelled. When she was
+brought to Hamees' hut she descended, and with her maids went into the
+hut. She and her attendants had all small, neat features. I had been
+sitting with Hamees, and now rose up and went away; as I passed him,
+he spoke thus to himself: "Hamees Wadim Tagh! see to what you have
+brought yourself!!"
+
+_15th September, 1867._--A guide had come from Nsama to take us to the
+countries beyond his territory. Hamees set off this morning with his
+new wife to his father-in-law, but was soon met by two messengers, who
+said that he was not to come yet. We now sent for all the people who
+were out to go west or north-west without reference to Nsama.
+
+_16th-18th September, 1867._--Hamidi went to Nsama to try and get
+guides, but he would not let him come into his stockade unless he came
+up to it without either gun or sword. Hamidi would not go in on these
+conditions, but Nsama promised guides, and they came after a visit by
+Hamees to Nsama, which he paid without telling any of us: he is
+evidently ashamed of his father-in-law.
+
+Those Arabs who despair of ivory invest their remaining beads and
+cloth in slaves.
+
+_20th September, 1867._--I had resolved to go to Nsama's, and thence
+to Moero to-day, but Hamees sent to say that men had come, and we were
+all to go with them on the 22nd. Nsama was so vacillating that I had
+no doubt but this was best.
+
+Hamees' wife, seeing the preparations that were made for starting,
+thought that her father was to be attacked, so she, her attendants,
+and the guides decamped by night. Hamees went again to Nsama and got
+other guides to enable us to go off at once.
+
+_22nd September, 1867._--We went north for a couple of hours, then
+descended into the same valley as that in which I found Nsama. This
+valley is on the slope of the watershed, and lies east and west: a
+ridge of dark-red sandstone, covered with trees, forms its side on the
+south. Other ridges like this make the slope have the form of a stair
+with huge steps: the descent is gradually lost as we insensibly climb
+up the next ridge. The first plain between the steps is at times
+swampy, and the paths are covered with the impressions of human feet,
+which, being hardened by the sun, make walking on their uneven surface
+very difficult. Mosquitoes again; we had lost them during our long
+stay on the higher lands behind us.
+
+_23rd September, 1867._--A fire had broken out the night after we left
+Hara, and the wind being strong, it got the upper hand, and swept away
+at once the whole of the temporary village of dry straw huts: Hamees
+lost all his beads, guns, powder, and cloth, except one bale. The news
+came this morning, and prayers were at once offered for him with
+incense; some goods will also be sent, as a little incense was. The
+prayer-book was held in the smoke of the incense while the responses
+were made. These Arabs seem to be very religious in their way: the
+prayers were chiefly to Harasji, some relative of Mohamad.
+
+_24th September, 1867._--Roused at 3 A.M. to be told that the next
+stage had no water, and we should be oppressed with the midday heat if
+we went now. We were to go at 2 P.M. Hamidi's wife being ill yesterday
+put a stop to our march on that afternoon. After the first hour we
+descended from the ridge to which we had ascended, we had then a wall
+of tree-covered rocks on our left of more than a thousand feet in
+altitude; after flanking it for a while we went up, and then along it
+northwards till it vanished in forest. Slept without a fresh supply of
+water.
+
+_25th September, 1867._--Off at 5.30 A.M., through the same well-grown
+forest we have passed and came to a village stockade, where the gates
+were shut, and the men all outside, in fear of the Arabs; we then
+descended from the ridge on which it stood, about a thousand feet,
+into an immense plain, with a large river in the distance, some ten
+miles off.
+
+_26th September, 1867._--Two and a half hours brought us to the large
+river we saw yesterday; it is more than a mile wide and full of
+papyrus and other aquatic plants and very difficult to ford, as the
+papyrus roots are hard to the bare feet, and we often plunged into
+holes up to the waist. A loose mass floated in the middle of our path;
+one could sometimes get on along this while it bent and heaved under
+the weight, but through it he would plunge and find great difficulty
+to get out: the water under this was very cold from evaporation; it
+took an hour and a half to cross it. It is called Chis�ra, and winds
+away to the west to fall into the Kalongosi and Moero. Many animals,
+as elephants, tahetsis, zebras, and buffaloes, graze on the long
+sloping banks of about a quarter of a mile down, while the ranges of
+hills we crossed as mere ridges now appear behind us in the south.
+
+_27th September, 1867._--The people are numerous and friendly. One
+elephant was killed, and we remained to take the ivory from the dead
+beast; buffaloes and zebras were also killed. It was so cloudy that no
+observations could be taken to determine our position, but Chis�ra
+rises in Lop�r�. Further west it is free of papyrus, and canoes are
+required to cross it.
+
+_28th September, 1867._--Two hours north brought us to the Kamosenga,
+a river eight yards wide, of clear water which ran strongly among
+aquatic plants. Hippopotami, buffalo, and zebra abound. This goes into
+the Chis�ra eastwards; country flat and covered with dense tangled
+bush. Cassias and another tree of the pea family are now in flower,
+and perfume the air. Other two hours took us round a large bend of
+this river.
+
+_30th September, 1867._.--We crossed the Kamosenga or another, and
+reach Karungu's. The Kamosenga divides Lop�r� from Itawa, the latter
+being Nsama's country; Lop�r� is north-west of it.
+
+_1st October, 1867._--Karungu was very much afraid of us; he kept
+every one out of his stockade at first, but during the time the Arabs
+sent forward to try and conciliate other chiefs he gradually became
+more friendly. He had little ivory to sell, and of those who had,
+Mt�t� or Mt�ma seemed inclined to treat the messengers roughly. Men
+were also sent to Nsama asking him to try and induce Mt�ma and
+Chikongo to be friendly and sell ivory and provisions, but he replied
+that these chiefs were not men under him, and if they thought
+themselves strong enough to contend against guns he had nothing to say
+to them. Other chiefs threatened to run away as soon as they saw the
+Arabs approaching. These were assured that we meant to pass through
+the country alone, and if they gave us guides to show us how, we
+should avoid the villages altogether, and proceed to the countries
+where ivory was to be bought; however, the panic was too great, no one
+would agree to our overtures, and at last when we did proceed a chief
+on the River Choma fulfilled his threat and left us three empty
+villages. There were no people to sell though the granaries were
+crammed, and it was impossible to prevent the slaves from stealing.
+
+_3rd-4th October, 1867._--When Chikongo heard Tipo Tipo's message
+about buying ivory he said, "And when did Tipo Tipo place ivory in my
+country that he comes seeking it?" Yet he sent a tusk and said "That
+is all I have, and he is not to come here." Their hostile actions are
+caused principally by fear. "If Nsama could not stand before the
+Malongwana or traders, how can we face them?" I wished to go on to
+Moero, but all declare that our ten guns would put all the villages to
+flight: they are terror-struck. First rains of this season on the 5th.
+
+_10th October, 1867._--I had a long conversation with Syde, who thinks
+that the sun rises and sets because the Koran says so, and he sees it.
+He asserts that Jesus foretold the coming of Mohamad; and that it was
+not Jesus who suffered on the cross but a substitute, it being
+unlikely that a true prophet would be put to death so ignominiously.
+He does not understand how we can be glad that our Saviour died for
+our sins.
+
+_12th October, 1867._--An elephant killed by Tipo Tipo's men. It is
+always clouded over, and often not a breath of air stirring.
+
+_16th October, 1867._--A great many of the women of this district and
+of Lop�r� have the swelled thyroid gland called _goitre_ or Derbyshire
+neck; men, too, appeared with it, and they in addition have hydrocele
+of large size.
+
+An Arab who had been long ill at Chitimba's died yesterday, and was
+buried in the evening. No women were allowed to come near. A long
+silent prayer was uttered over the corpse when it was laid beside the
+grave, and then a cloth was held over as men in it deposited the
+remains beneath sticks placed slanting on the side of the bottom of
+the grave; this keeps the earth from coming directly into contact with
+the body.
+
+A feast was made by the friends of the departed, and portions sent to
+all who had attended the funeral: I got a good share.
+
+_18th October, 1867._--The last we hear of Nsama is that he will not
+interfere with Chikongo. Two wives beat drums and he dances to them;
+he is evidently in his dotage. We hear of many Arabs to the west of
+us.
+
+_20th October, 1867._--Very ill; I am always so when I have no
+work--sore bones--much headache; then lost power over the muscles of
+the back, as at Liemba; no appetite and much thirst. The fever
+uninfluenced by medicine.
+
+_21st October, 1867._--Syde sent his men to build a new hut in a
+better situation. I hope it may be a healthful one for me.
+
+_22nd October, 1867._--The final message from Chikongo was a
+discouraging one--no ivory. The Arabs, however, go west with me as far
+as Chisaw�'s, who, being accustomed to Arabs from Tanganyika, will
+give me men to take me on to Moero: the Arabs will then return, and we
+shall move on.
+
+_23rd October, 1867._--Tipo Tipo gave Karungu some cloth, and this
+chief is "looking for something" to give him in return; this detains
+us one day more.
+
+When a slave wishes to change his master he goes to one whom he likes
+better and breaks a spear or a bow in his presence--the transference
+is irrevocable. This curious custom prevails on the Zambesi, and also
+among the Wanyamwesi; if the old master wishes to recover his slave
+the new one may refuse to part with him except when he gets his full
+price: a case of this kind happened here yesterday.
+
+_25th October, 1867._--Authority was found in the Koran for staying
+one day more here. This was very trying; but the fact was our guide
+from Hara hither had enticed a young slave girl to run away, and he
+had given her in charge to one of his countrymen, who turned round and
+tried to secure her for himself, and gave information about the other
+enticing her away. Nothing can be more tedious than the Arab way of
+travelling.
+
+_26th October, 1867._--We went S.W. for five hours through an
+undulating, well-wooded, well-peopled country, and quantities of large
+game. Several trees give out when burned very fine scents; others do
+it when cut. Euphorbia is abundant. We slept by a torrent which had
+been filled with muddy water by late rains. It thunders every
+afternoon, and rains somewhere as regularly as it thunders, but these
+are but partial rains; they do not cool the earth; nor fill the cracks
+made in the dry season.
+
+_27th October, 1867._--Off early in a fine drizzling rain, which
+continued for two hours, and came on to a plain about three miles
+broad, full of large game. These plains are swamps at times, and they
+are flanked by ridges of denudation some 200 or 300 feet above them,
+and covered with trees.
+
+The ridges are generally hardened sandstone, marked with madrepores,
+and masses of brown haematite. It is very hot, and we become very
+tired. There is no system in the Arab marches. The first day was five
+hours, this 3-1/2 hours; had it been reversed--short marches during
+the first days and longer afterwards--the muscles would have become
+inured to the exertion. A long line of heights on our south points to
+the valley of Nsama.
+
+_28th October, 1867._--Five hours brought us to the Choma River and
+the villages of Chifupa, but, as already mentioned, the chief and
+people had fled, and no persuasion could prevail on them to come and
+sell us food. We showed a few who ventured to come among us what we
+were willing to give for flour, but they said, "Yes, we will call the
+women and they will sell." None came.
+
+Rested all day on the banks of the Choma, which is a muddy stream
+coming from the north and going to the south-west to join the Chis�ra.
+It has worn itself a deep bed in the mud of its banks, and is twenty
+yards wide and in some spots waist deep, at other parts it is
+unfordable, it contains plenty of fish, and hippopotami and crocodiles
+abound. I bought a few ground-nuts at an exorbitant price, the men
+evidently not seeing that it would have been better to part with more
+at a lower price than run off and leave all to be eaten by the slaves.
+
+_30th October, 1867._--Two ugly images were found in huts built for
+them: they represent in a poor way the people of the country, and are
+used in rain-making and curing the sick ceremonies; this is the
+nearest approach to idol worship I have seen in the country.[58]
+
+_31st October, 1867._--We marched over a long line of hills on our
+west, and in five and a half hours came to some villages where the
+people sold us food willingly, and behaved altogether in a friendly
+way. We were met by a herd of buffaloes, but Syde seized my gun from
+the boy who carried it, and when the animals came close past me I was
+powerless, and not at all pleased with the want of good sense shown by
+my usually polite Arab friend.
+
+_Note_.--The Choma is said by Mohamad bin Saleh to go into Tanganyika
+(??). It goes to Kalongosi.
+
+_1st November, 1867._--We came along between ranges of hills
+considerably higher than those we have passed in Itawa or Nsama's
+country, and thickly covered with trees, some in full foliage, and
+some putting forth fresh red leaves; the hills are about 700 or 800
+feet above the valleys. This is not a district of running rills: we
+crossed three sluggish streamlets knee deep. Buffaloes are very
+numerous.
+
+The Ratel covers the buffalo droppings with earth in order to secure
+the scavenger beetles which bury themselves therein, thus he prevents
+them from rolling a portion away as usual.
+
+We built our sheds on a hillside. Our course was west and 6-1/4 hours.
+
+_2nd November, 1867._--Still in the same direction, and in an open
+valley remarkable for the numbers of a small euphorbia, which we
+smashed at every step. Crossed a small but strong rivulet, the
+Lipand�, going south-west to Moero, then, an hour afterwards, crossed
+it again, now twenty yards wide and knee deep. After descending from
+the tree-covered hill which divides Lipand� from Luao, we crossed the
+latter to sleep on its western bank. The hills are granite now, and a
+range on our left, from 700 to 1500 feet high, goes on all the way to
+Moero.
+
+These valleys along which we travel are beautiful. Green is the
+prevailing colour; but the clumps of trees assume a great variety of
+forms, and often remind one of English park scenery. The long line of
+slaves and carriers, brought up by their Arab employers, adds life to
+the scene, they are in three bodies, and number 450 in all. Each party
+has a guide with a flag, and when that is planted all that company
+stops till it is lifted, and a drum is beaten, and a kudu's horn
+sounded. One party is headed by about a dozen leaders, dressed with
+fantastic head-gear of feathers and beads, red cloth on the bodies,
+and skins cut into strips and twisted: they take their places in line,
+the drum beats, the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in. These sounds
+seem to awaken a sort of _esprit de corps_ in those who have once been
+slaves. My attendants now jumped up, and would scarcely allow me time
+to dress when they heard the-sounds of their childhood, and all day
+they were among the foremost. One said to me "that his feet were
+rotten with marching," and this though told that they were not called
+on to race along like slaves.
+
+The Africans cannot stand sneers. When any mishap occurs in the march
+(as when a branch tilts a load off a man's shoulder) all who see it
+set up a yell of derision; if anything is accidentally spilled, or if
+one is tired and sits down, the same yell greets him, and all are
+excited thereby to exert themselves. They hasten on with their loads,
+and hurry with the sheds they build, the masters only bringing up the
+rear, and helping anyone who may be sick. The distances travelled were
+quite as much as the masters or we could bear. Had frequent halts been
+made--as, for instance, a half or a quarter of an hour at the end of
+every hour or two--but little distress would have been felt; but five
+hours at a stretch is more than men can bear in a hot climate. The
+female slaves held on bravely; nearly all carried loads on their
+heads, the head, or lady of the party, who is also the wife of the
+Arab, was the only exception. She had a fine white shawl, with
+ornaments of gold and silver on her head. These ladies had a jaunty
+walk, and never gave in on the longest march; many pounds' weight of
+fine copper leglets above the ankles seemed only to help the sway of
+their walk: as soon as they arrive at the sleeping-place they begin to
+cook, and in this art they show a good deal of expertness, making
+savoury dishes for their masters out of wild fruits and other not very
+likely materials.
+
+_3rd November, 1867._--The ranges of hills retire as we advance; the
+soil is very rich. At two villages the people did not want us, so we
+went on and encamped near a third, Kabwakwa, where a son of Mohamad
+bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi, lives. The chief of this part
+is Muabo, but we did not see him: the people brought plenty of food
+for us to buy. The youth's father is at Casembe's. The country-people
+were very much given to falsehood--every place inquired for was
+near--ivory abundant--provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our
+headmen trusted to these statements of this young man rather, and he
+led them to desist going further. Rua country was a month distant, he
+said, and but little ivory there. It is but three days off. (We saw it
+after three days.) "No ivory at Casembe's or here in Buir�, or
+Kabuir�." He was right as to Casembe. Letters, however, came from
+Hamees, with news of a depressing nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is
+Mambw�. Chitimba's people are fighting for the chieftainship: great
+hunger prevails there now, the Arabs having bought up all the food.
+Moriri, a chief dispossessed of his country by Nsama, wished Hamees to
+restore his possessions, but Hamees said that he had made peace, and
+would not interfere.
+
+This unfavourable news from a part where the chief results of their
+trading were deposited, made Syde and Tipo Tipo decide to remain in
+Buir� only ten or twenty days, send out people to buy what ivory they
+could find, and then, retire.
+
+As Syde and Tipo Tipo were sending men to Casembe for ivory, I
+resolved to go thither first, instead of shaping my course for Ujiji.
+
+Very many cases of goitre in men and women here: I see no reason for
+it. This is only 3350 feet above the sea.
+
+_7th November, 1867._--Start for Moero, convoyed by all the Arabs for
+some distance: they have been extremely kind. We draw near to the
+mountain-range on our left, called Kakoma, and sleep at one of
+Kaputa's villages, our course now being nearly south.
+
+_8th November, 1867._--Villages are very thickly studded over the
+valley formed by Kakoma range, and another at a greater distance on
+our right; 100 or 200 yards is a common distance between these
+villages, which, like those in Londa, or Lunda, are all shaded with
+trees of a species of _Ficus indica_. One belongs to Puta, and this
+Puta, the paramount chief, sent to say that if we slept there, and
+gave him a cloth, he would send men to conduct us next day, and ferry
+us across: I was willing to remain, but his people would not lend a
+hut, so we came on to the Lake, and no ferry. Probably he thought that
+we were going across the Lualaba into Rua.
+
+Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of mountains
+on the east and west. Its banks are of coarse sand, and slope
+gradually down to the water: outside these banks stands a thick belt
+of tropical vegetation, in which fishermen build their huts. The
+country called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of
+dark mountains: another range of less height, but more broken, stands
+along the eastern shore, and in it lies the path to Casembe. We slept
+in a fisherman's hut on the north shore. They brought a large fish,
+called "mond�," for sale; it has a slimy skin, and no scales, a large
+head, with tentaculae like the Siluridie, and large eyes: the great
+gums in its mouth have a brush-like surface, like a whale's in
+miniature: it is said to eat small fish. A bony spine rises on its
+back (I suppose for defence), which is 2-1/2 inches long, and as thick
+as a quill. They are very retentive of life.
+
+The northern shore has a fine sweep like an unbent bow, and round the
+western end flows the water that makes the river Lualaba, which,
+before it enters Moero, is the Luapula, and that again (if the most
+intelligent reports speak true) is the Chambez� before it enters Lake
+Bemba, or Bangweolo.
+
+We came along the north shore till we reached the eastern flanking
+range, then ascended and turned south, the people very suspicious,
+shutting their gates as we drew near. We were alone, and only nine
+persons in all, but they must have had reason for fear. One headman
+refused us admission, then sent after us, saying that the man who had
+refused admission was not the chief: he had come from a distance, and
+had just arrived. It being better to appear friendly than otherwise,
+we went back, and were well entertained. Provisions were given when we
+went away. Flies abound, and are very troublesome; they seem to be
+attracted by the great numbers of fish caught. The people here are
+Babemba, but beyond the river Kalongosi they are all Balunda.
+
+A trade in salt is carried on from different salt springs and salt mud
+to Lunda and elsewhere. We meet parties of salt-traders daily, and
+they return our salutations very cordially, rubbing earth on the arms.
+We find our path lies between two ranges of mountains, one flanking
+the eastern shore, the other about three miles more inland, and
+parallel to it: these are covered thickly with trees, and are of
+loosely-coherent granite: many villages are in the space enclosed by
+these ranges, but all insecure.
+
+_12th November, 1867._.--We came to the Kalongosi, or, as the Arabs
+and Portuguese pronounce it, Karungwesi, about 60 yards wide, and
+flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough, even now when the rainy
+season is not commenced, to requite canoes. It is said to rise in
+Kumbi, or Afar, a country to the south-east of our ford. Fish in great
+numbers are caught when ascending to spawn: they are secured by weirs,
+nets, hooks. Large strong baskets are placed in the rapids, and filled
+with stones, when the water rises these baskets are standing-places
+for the fishermen to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed the
+Kalongosi we were now in Lunda, or Londa.
+
+_13th November, 1867._--We saw that the Kalongosi went north till it
+met a large meadow on the shores of Moero, and, turning westwards, it
+entered there. The fishermen gave us the names of 39 species of fish
+in the Lake; they said that they never cease ascending the Kalongosi,
+though at times they are more abundant than at others: they are as
+follows.
+
+    Mond�; Mota; Lasa; Kasib�; Molob�; Lopemb�; Motoya; Chipansa;
+    Mpifu; Manda; Mpala; Moombo; Mfeu; Mend�; Seus�; Kadia nkololo;
+    Etiaka; Nkomo; Lifisha; Sambamkaka; Ntondo; Sampa; Bongw�;
+    Mabanga; Kis�; Kuanya; Nkosu; Pal�; Mosungu; Litembwa;
+    Mecheber�; Koninchia; Sipa; Lomemb�; Molenga; Mirong�; Nfindo;
+    Pende.
+
+_14th November, 1867._--Being doubtful as to whether we were in the
+right path, I sent to a village to inquire. The headman, evidently
+one of a former Casembe school, came to us full of wrath. "What right
+had we to come that way, seeing the usual path was to our left?" He
+mouthed some sentences in the pompous Lunda style, but would not show
+us the path; so we left him, and after going through a forest of large
+trees, 4-1/2 hours south, took advantage of some huts on the Kifurwa
+River, built by bark-cloth cutters.
+
+_15th November, 1867._--Heavy rains, but we went on, and found a
+village, Kifurwa, surrounded by cassava fields, and next day crossed
+the Muatoz�, 25 yards wide, and running strongly towards Moero, knee
+deep. The River Kabukwa, seven yards wide, and also knee deep, going
+to swell the Muatoz�.
+
+We now crossed a brook, Chirongo, one yard wide and one deep; but our
+march was all through well-grown forest, chiefly gum-copal trees and
+bark-cloth trees. The gum-copal oozes out in abundance after or during
+the rains, from holes a quarter of an inch in diameter, made by an
+insect: it falls, and in time sinks into the soil, a supply for future
+generations. The small well-rounded features of the people of Nsama's
+country are common here, as we observe in the salt-traders and
+villages; indeed, this is the home of the Negro, and the features such
+as we see in pictures of ancient Egyptians, as first pointed out by
+Mr. Winwood Reade. We sleep by the river Mandapala, 12 yards wide, and
+knee deep.
+
+_18th November, 1867._--We rest by the Kabusi, a sluggish narrow
+rivulet. It runs into the Chungu, a quarter of a mile off. The Chungu
+is broad, but choked with trees and aquatic plants: Sapotas,
+Eschinomenas, Papyrus, &c. The free stream is 18 yards wide, and waist
+deep. We had to wade about 100 yards, thigh and waist deep, to get to
+the free stream.
+
+On this, the Chungu, Dr. Lacerda died; it is joined by the Mandapala,
+and flows a united stream into Moero. The statements of the people are
+confused, but the following is what I have gleaned from many. There
+were some Ujiji people with the Casembe of the time. The Portuguese
+and Ujijians began to fight, but Casembe said to them and the
+Portuguese, "You are all my guests, why should you fight and kill each
+other?" He then gave Lacerda ten slaves, and men to live with him and
+work at building huts, bringing firewood, water, &c. He made similar
+presents to the Ujijians, which quieted them. Lacerda was but ten days
+at Chungu when he died. The place of his death was about 9� 32', and
+not 8� 43' as in Mr. Arrowsmith's map. The feud arose from one of
+Lacerda's people killing an Ujijian at the water: this would certainly
+be a barrier to their movements.
+
+Palm-oil trees are common west of the Chungu, but none appeared east
+of it. The oil is eaten by the people, and is very nice and sweet.
+This is remarkable, as the altitude above the sea is 3350 feet.
+
+Allah is a very common exclamation among all the people west of Nsama.
+By advice of a guide whom we picked up at Kifurwa, we sent four
+fathoms of calico to apprise Casembe of our coming: the Arabs usually
+send ten fathoms; in our case it was a very superfluous notice, for
+Casembe is said to have been telegraphed to by runners at every stage
+of our progress after crossing the Kalongosi.
+
+We remain by the Chungu till Casembe sends one of his counsellors to
+guide us to his town. It has been so perpetually clouded over that we
+have been unable to make out our progress, and the dense forest
+prevented us seeing Moero as we wished: rain and thunder perpetually,
+though the rain seldom fell where we were.
+
+I saw pure white-headed swallows _(Psalidoprocne albiceps)_ skimming
+the surface of the Chungu as we crossed it. The soil is very rich.
+Casembe's ground-nuts are the largest I have seen, and so is the
+cassava. I got over a pint of palm oil for a cubit of calico.
+
+A fine young man, whose father had been the Casembe before this one,
+came to see us; he is in the background now, otherwise he would have
+conducted us to the village: a son or heir does not succeed to the
+chieftainship here.
+
+_21st November, 1867._--The River Lund� was five miles from Chungu. It
+is six yards wide where we crossed it, but larger further down;
+springs were oozing out of its bed: we then entered on a broad plain,
+covered with bush, the trees being all cleared off in building a
+village. When one Casembe dies, the man who succeeds him invariably
+removes and builds his pembw�, or court, at another place: when Dr.
+Lacerda died, the Casembe moved to near the north end of the Mofw�.
+There have been seven Casembes in all. The word means a _general_.
+
+The plain extending from the Lund� to the town of Casembe is level,
+and studded pretty thickly with red anthills, from 15 to 20 feet high.
+Casembe has made a broad path from his town to the Lund�, about a
+mile-and-a-half long, and as broad as a carriage-path. The chief's
+residence is enclosed in a wall of reeds, 8 or 9 feet high, and 300
+yards square, the gateway is ornamented with about sixty human skulls;
+a shed stands in the middle of the road before we come to the gate,
+with a cannon dressed in gaudy cloths. A number of noisy fellows
+stopped our party, and demanded tribute for the cannon; I burst
+through them, and the rest followed without giving anything: they were
+afraid of the English. The town is on the east bank of the Lakelet
+Mofw�, and one mile from its northern end. Mohamad bin Saleh now met
+us, his men firing guns of welcome; he conducted us to his shed of
+reception, and then gave us a hut till we could build one of our own.
+Mohamad is a fine portly black Arab, with a pleasant smile, and pure
+white beard, and has been more than ten years in these parts, and
+lived with four Casembes: he has considerable influence here, and also
+on Tanganyika.
+
+An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogharib, who arrived seven days before us
+with an immense number of slaves, presented a meal of vermicelli, oil,
+and honey, also cassava meal cooked, so as to resemble a sweet meat (I
+had not tasted honey or sugar since we left Lake Nyassa, in September
+1866): they had coffee too.
+
+Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people are
+confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively cultivated,
+indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is impossible to
+know which is town and which is country: every hut has a plantation
+around it, in which is grown cassava, Holcus sorghum, maize, beans,
+nuts.
+
+Mohamad gives the same account of the River Luapula and Lake Bemba
+that Jumb� did, but he adds, that the Chambez�, where we crossed it,
+_is_ the Luapula before it enters Bemba or Bangweolo: on coming out of
+that Lake it turns round and comes away to the north, as Luapula, and,
+without touching the Mofw�, goes into Moero; then, emerging thence at
+the north-west end it becomes Lualaba, goes into Rua, forms a lake
+there, and afterwards goes into another lake beyond Tanganyika.
+
+The Lakelet Mofw� fills during the rains and spreads westward, much
+beyond its banks. Elephants wandering in its mud flats when covered
+are annually killed in numbers: if it were connected with the Lake
+Moero the flood would run off.
+
+Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped and hands lopped
+off: the present chief has been often guilty of this barbarity. One
+man has just come to us without ears or hands: he tries to excite our
+pity making a chirruping noise, by striking his cheeks with the
+stumps of his hands.
+
+A dwarf also, one Zofu, with backbone broken, comes about us: he talks
+with an air of authority, and is present at all public occurrences:
+the people seem to bear with him. He is a stranger from a tribe in the
+north, and works in his garden very briskly: his height is 3 feet 9
+inches.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[56] Ch�fu amongst the Manganja. Any animal possessing strength, has
+the terminal "fu" or "vu;" thus Njobvu, an elephant; M'vu, the
+hippopotamus.--ED.
+
+[57] The natives are quick to detect a peculiarity in a man, and give
+him a name accordingly: the conquerors of a country try to forestall
+them by selecting one for themselves. Susi states that when Tipo Tipo
+stood over the spoil taken from Nsama, he gathered it closer together
+and said, "Now I am Tipo Tipo," that is, "the gatherer together of
+wealth." Kumba Kumba, of whom we shall hear much, took his name from
+the number of captives he gathered in his train under similar
+circumstances; it might be translated, "the collector of people."--ED.
+
+[58] It is on the West Coast alone that idols are really worshipped in
+Africa.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Grand reception of the traveller. Casenibe and his wife. Long
+    stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwawata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Saleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.
+
+
+_24th November, 1867._--We were called to be presented to Casembe in a
+grand reception.
+
+The present Casembe has a heavy uninteresting countenance, without
+beard or whiskers, and somewhat of the Chinese type, and his eyes have
+an outward squint. He smiled but once during the day, and that was
+pleasant enough, though the cropped ears and lopped hands, with human
+skulls at the gate, made me indisposed to look on anything with
+favour. His principal wife came with her attendants, after he had
+departed, to look at the Englishman (Moenge-r�s�). She was a fine,
+tall, good-featured lady, with two spears in her hand; the principal
+men who had come around made way for her, and called on me to salute:
+I did so; but she, being forty yards off, I involuntarily beckoned her
+to come nearer: this upset the gravity of all her attendants; all
+burst into a laugh, and ran off.
+
+Casembe's smile was elicited by the dwarf making some uncouth antics
+before him. His executioner also came forward to look: he had a broad
+Lunda sword on his arm, and a curious scizzor-like instrument at his
+neck for cropping ears. On saying to him that his was nasty work, he
+smiled, and so did many who were not sure of their ears a moment: many
+men of respectability show that at some former time they have been
+thus punished. Casembe sent us another large basket of fire-dried fish
+in addition to that sent us at Chungu, two baskets of flour, one of
+dried cassava, and a pot of pombe or beer. Mohamad, who was accustomed
+to much more liberal Casembes, thinks this one very stingy, having
+neither generosity nor good sense; but as we cannot consume all he
+gives, we do not complain.
+
+_27th November, 1867._--Casembe's chief wife passes frequently to her
+plantation, carried by six, or more commonly by twelve men in a sort
+of palanquin: she has European features, but light-brown complexion. A
+number of men run before her, brandishing swords and battle-axes, and
+one beats a hollow instrument, giving warning to passengers to clear
+the way: she has two enormous pipes ready filled for smoking. She is
+very attentive to her agriculture; cassava is the chief product; sweet
+potatoes, maize, sorghum, pennisetum, millet, ground-nuts, cotton. The
+people seem more savage than any I have yet seen: they strike each
+other barbarously from mere wantonness, but they are civil enough to
+me.
+
+Mohamad bin Saleh proposes to go to Ujiji next month. He waited when
+he heard of our coming, in order that we might go together: he has a
+very low opinion of the present chief. The area which has served for
+building the chief town at different times is about ten miles in
+diameter.
+
+Mofw� is a shallow piece of water about two miles broad, four or less
+long, full of sedgy islands, the abodes of waterfowl, but some are
+solid enough to be cultivated. The bottom is mud, though sandy at the
+east shore: it has no communication with the Luapula. _(28th
+November, 1867._) The Lund�, Chungu, and Mandapala are said to join
+and flow into Moero. Fish are in great abundance (perch). On the west
+side there is a grove of palm-oil palms, and beyond west rises a long
+range of mountains of the Rua country 15 or 20 miles off.
+
+_1st December, 1867._--An old man named P�r�mb� is the owner of the
+land on which Casembe has built. They always keep up the traditional
+ownership. Munongo is a brother of P�r�mb�, and he owns the country
+east of the Kalongosi: if any one wished to cultivate land he would
+apply to these aboriginal chiefs for it.
+
+I asked a man from Casembe to guide me to south end of Moero, but he
+advised me not to go as it was so marshy. The Lund� forms a marsh on
+one side, and the Luapula lets water percolate through sand and mud,
+and so does the Robukw�, which makes the path often knee deep. He said
+he would send men to conduct me to Moero, a little further down, and
+added that we had got very little to eat from him, and he wanted to
+give more. Moero's south end is about 9� 30' S.
+
+Old P�r�mb� is a sensible man: Mohamad thinks him 150 years old. He is
+always on the side of liberality and fairness; he says that the first
+Casembe was attracted to Mofw� by the abundance of fish in it. He has
+the idea of all men being derived from a single pair.
+
+_7th December, 1867._--It is very cloudy here; no observations can be
+made, as it clouds over every afternoon and night. _(8th and 11th
+December, 1867._) Cleared off last night, but intermittent fever
+prevented my going out.
+
+_13th December, 1867._--Set-in rains. A number of fine young girls who
+live in Casembe's compound came and shook hands in their way, which is
+to cross the right over to your left, and clasp them; then give a few
+claps with both hands, and repeat the crossed clasp: they want to
+tell their children that they have seen me.
+
+_15th December, 1867._--To-day I announced to Casembe our intention of
+going away. Two traders got the same return present from him that I
+did, namely, one goat and some fish, meal and cassava. I am always ill
+when not working; I spend my time writing letters, to be ready when we
+come to Ujiji. _(18th December, 1867._) We have been here a month, and
+I cannot get more than two lunars: I got altitudes of the meridian of
+stars north and south soon after we came, but not lunars. Casembe sent
+a big basket of fire-dried fish, two pots of beer, and a basket of
+cassava, and says we may go when we choose.
+
+_19th December, 1867._--On going to say good-bye to Casembe, he tried
+to be gracious, said that we had eaten but little of his food; yet he
+allowed us to go. He sent for a man to escort us; and on the _22nd
+December, 1867._ we went to Lund� River, crossed it, and went on to
+sleep at the Chungu, close by the place where Casembe's court stood
+when Dr. Lacerda came, for the town was moved further west as soon as
+the Doctor died. There are many palm-oil palms about, but no tradition
+exists of their introduction.
+
+_23rd December, 1867._--We crossed the Chungu. Rain from above, and
+cold and wet to the waist below, as I do not lift my shirt, because
+the white skin makes all stare. I saw black monkeys at this spot. The
+Chungu is joined by the Kaleusi and the Mandapala before it enters
+Moero. Casembe said that the Lund� ran into Mofw�; others denied this,
+and said that it formed a marsh with numbers of pools in long grass;
+but it may ooze into Mofw� thus. Casembe sent three men to guide me to
+Moero.
+
+_24th December, 1867._--Drizzly rain, and we are in a miserable spot
+by the Kabusi, in a bed of brakens four feet high. The guides won't
+stir in this weather. I gave beads to buy what could be got for
+Christmas.
+
+_25th December, 1867._--Drizzly showers every now and then; soil,
+black mud.
+
+About ten men came as guides and as a convoy of honour to Mohamad.
+
+_27th December, 1867._--In two hours we crossed Mandapala, now waist
+deep. This part was well stocked with people five years ago, but
+Casembe's severity in cropping ears and other mutilations, selling the
+children for slight offences, &c., made them all flee to neighbouring
+tribes; and now, if he sent all over the country, he could not collect
+a thousand men.
+
+[Livingstone refers (on the 15th Dec.) to some writings he was engaged
+upon, and we find one of them here in his journal which takes the form
+of a despatch to Lord Clarendon, with a note attached to the effect
+that it was not copied or sent, as he had no paper for the purpose. It
+affords an epitomised description of his late travels, and the stay at
+Casembe, and is inserted here in the place of many notes written
+daily, but which only repeat the same events and observations in a
+less readable form. It is especially valuable at this stage of his
+journal, because it treats on the whole geography of the district
+between Lakes Nyassa and Moero, with a broad handling which is
+impossible in the mere jottings of a diary.]
+
+    Town Of Casembe, _10th December, 1867._.
+
+    Lat. 9� 37' 13" South; long. 28� East.
+
+    The Right Honourable the Earl of Clarendon.
+
+    My Lord,--The first opportunity I had of sending a letter to the
+    coast occurred in February last, when I was at a village called
+    Molemba (lat. 10� 14' S.; long. 31� 46' E.), in the country
+    named Lobemba. Lobisa, Lobemba, Ulungu and Itawa-Lunda are the
+    names by which the districts of an elevated region between the
+    parallels 11� and 8� south, and meridians 28�-33� long. east,
+    are known. The altitude of this upland is from 4000 to 6000 feet
+    above the level of the sea. It is generally covered with forest,
+    well watered by numerous rivulets, and comparatively cold. The
+    soil is very rich, and yields abundantly wherever cultivated.
+    This is the watershed between the Loangwa, a tributary of the
+    Zambesi, and several rivers which flow towards the north. Of the
+    latter, the most remarkable is the Chambez�, for it assists in
+    the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times
+    in the five or six hundred miles of its course.
+
+    On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded
+    northwards, perceived by the barometers and the courses of
+    numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction. A
+    friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that I
+    wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his country, gave his
+    son with a large escort to guide me thither; and on the 2nd
+    April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in
+    which the Lake reposes. The descent is 2000 feet, and still the
+    surface of the water is upwards of 2500 feet above the level of
+    the sea. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes
+    the rocks run the whole 2000 feet sheer down to the water.
+    Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the
+    cliffs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered with
+    well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks protrude.
+    The scenery is extremely beautiful. The "Aeasy," a stream of 15
+    yards broad and thigh deep, came down alongside our precipitous
+    path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These,
+    with the bright red of the clay schists among the
+    greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause and
+    remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants abound
+    on the steep slopes; and hippopotami, crocodiles, and fish
+    swarm in the water. Gnus are here unknown, and these animals may
+    live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The elephants
+    sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap their big ears
+    just outside the village stockades. One got out of our way on to
+    a comparatively level spot, and then stood and roared at us.
+    Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of man.
+
+    The first village we came to on the banks of the Lake had a
+    grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm tree was
+    not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the
+    fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to carry
+    it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast.
+    Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate
+    the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. The Lake is not large,
+    from 15 to 20 miles broad, and from 30 to 40 long. It is the
+    receptacle of four considerable streams, and sends out an arm
+    two miles broad to the N.N.W., it is said to Tanganyika, and it
+    may be a branch of that Lake. One of the streams, the Lonzua,
+    drives a smooth body of water into the Lake fifty yards broad
+    and ten fathoms deep, bearing on its surface duckweed and grassy
+    islands. I could see the mouths of other streams, but got near
+    enough to measure the Lofu only; and at a ford fifty miles from
+    the confluence it was 100 yards wide and waist deep in the dry
+    season.
+
+    We remained six weeks on the shores of the Lake, trying to pick
+    up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into Ulungu
+    after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had
+    preceded them, naturally inquired where I was. But our friends,
+    the B�ulungu, suspecting that mischief was meant, stoutly denied
+    that they had ever seen anything of the sort; and then became
+    very urgent that I should go on to one of the inhabited islands
+    for safety. I regret that I suspected them of intending to make
+    me a prisoner there, which they could easily have done by
+    removing the canoes; but when the villagers who deceived the
+    Arabs told me afterwards with an air of triumph how nicely they
+    had managed, I saw that they had only been anxious for my
+    safety. On three occasions the same friendly disposition was
+    shown; and when we went round the west side of the Lake in order
+    to examine the arm or branch above referred to, the headman at
+    the confluence of the Lofu protested so strongly against my
+    going--the Arabs had been fighting, and I might be mistaken for
+    an Arab, and killed--that I felt half-inclined to believe him.
+    Two Arab slaves entered the village the same afternoon in search
+    of ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered our
+    course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by
+    the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that the
+    head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles further. They had found
+    ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a
+    chief named, Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They
+    were now at a loss which way to turn. On reaching Chitimba's
+    village (lat. 8� 57' 55" S.; long. 30� 20' E.), I found them
+    about 600 in all; and, on presenting a letter I had from the
+    Sultan of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions,
+    beads, and cloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the
+    south of Nsama's country, but advised waiting till the effects
+    of punishment, which the B�ulungu had resolved to inflict on
+    Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It had always been
+    understood that whoever brought goods into the country was to be
+    protected; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son
+    of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was
+    anticipated that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would
+    leave me a free passage through his country; if to the south, I
+    might be saved from walking into his hands. But it turned out
+    that Nsama was anxious for peace. He had sent two men with
+    elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation; but treachery was
+    suspected, and they were shot down. Another effort was made with
+    ten goats, and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head
+    Arabs. It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods were not all
+    sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's country, and without peace
+    no ivory could be bought, nor could I reach the Lake. The
+    peace-making between the people and Arabs was, however, a
+    tedious process, occupying three and a half months--drinking
+    each other's blood. This, as I saw it west of this in 1854, is
+    not more horrible than the thirtieth dilution of deadly
+    night-shade or strychnine is in homoeopathy. I thought that had
+    I been an Arab I could easily swallow that, but not the next
+    means of cementing the peace--marrying a black wife. Nsama's
+    daughter was the bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came
+    riding pickaback on a man's shoulders: this is the most
+    dignified conveyance that chiefs and their families can command.
+    She had ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of
+    provisions, and all having the same beautiful features as
+    herself. She was taken by the principal Arab, but soon showed
+    that she preferred her father to her husband, for seeing
+    preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she suspected
+    that her father was to be attacked, and made her escape. I then,
+    visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming near
+    him, took only three of my eight attendants. His people were
+    very much afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see
+    if I had any concealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with
+    head and face like those sculptured on the Assyrian monuments.
+    He has been a great conqueror in his time, and with bows and
+    arrows was invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native
+    traders from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from
+    his own stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country.
+    He was much taken with my hair and woollen clothing; but his
+    people, heedless of his scolding, so pressed upon us that we
+    could not converse, and, after promising to send for me to talk
+    during the night, our interview ended. He promised guides to
+    Moero, and sent us more provisions than we could carry; but
+    showed so much distrust, that after all we went without his
+    assistance.
+
+    Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the men have
+    as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of
+    Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and feet.
+    None of the West-coast ugliness, from which most of our ideas of
+    the Negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous jaws
+    nor lark-heels offended the sight. My observations deepened the
+    impression first obtained from the remarks of Winwood Reade,
+    that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient Egyptian, and not
+    in the ungainly forms; which grow up in the unhealthy swamps of
+    the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that this upland forest
+    region is the true home of the Negro. The women excited the
+    admiration of the Arabs. They have fine, small, well-formed
+    features: their great defect is one of fashion, which does not
+    extend to the next tribe; they file their teeth to points, the
+    hussies, and that makes their smile like that of the crocodile.
+
+    Nsama's country is called Itawa, and his principal town is in
+    lat. 8� 55' S., and long. 29� 21' E. From the large population
+    he had under him, Itawa is in many parts well cleared of trees
+    for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu, being generally
+    about 3000 feet above the sea. Long lines of tree-covered hills
+    raised some 600 or 700 feet above these valleys of denudation,
+    prevent the scenery from being monotonous. Large game is
+    abundant. Elephants, buffaloes, and zebras grazed in large
+    numbers on the long sloping, banks of a river called Chis�ra, a
+    mile and a half broad. In going north we crossed this river, or
+    rather marsh, which is full of papyrus plants and reeds. Our
+    ford was an elephant's path; and the roots of the papyrus,
+    though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore to feet
+    usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink and
+    flounder into holes chest deep. The Chis�ra forms a larger marsh
+    west of this, and it gives off its water to the Kalongosi, a
+    feeder of Lake Moero.
+
+    The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory; but
+    their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the tribes
+    which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had been routed
+    by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before them but Casembe;
+    and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people not to allow
+    the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country. They did not
+    attempt to force their way, but after sending friendly messages
+    and presents to different chiefs, when these were not cordially
+    received, turned off in some other direction, and at last,
+    despairing of more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last
+    they were extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to
+    the Sultan's letter. I am glad that I was witness to their mode
+    of trading in ivory and slaves. It formed a complete contrast to
+    the atrocious dealings of the Kilwa traders, who are supposed to
+    be, but are not, the subjects of the same Sultan. If one wished
+    to depict the slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather
+    least objectionable, form, he would accompany these gentlemen
+    subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he would describe the
+    land traffic in its most disgusting phases he would follow the
+    Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or the Portuguese
+    half-castes from Tette to the River Shir�.
+
+    Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving westwards,
+    our small party reached the north end of Moero on the 8th
+    November last. There the Lake is a goodly piece of water twelve
+    or more miles broad, and flanked on the east and west by ranges
+    of lofty tree-covered mountains. The range on the west is the
+    highest, and is part of the country called Rua-Moero; it gives
+    off a river at its north-west end called Lualaba, and receives
+    the River Kalongosi (pronounced by the Arabs Karungwesi) on the
+    east near its middle, and the rivers Luapula and Rovukw� at its
+    southern extremity. The point of most interest in Lake Moero is
+    that it forms one of a chain of lakes, connected by a river some
+    500 miles in length. First of all the Chambez� rises in the
+    country of Mambw�, N.E. of Molemba. It then flows south-west and
+    west till it reaches lat. 11� S., and long. 29� E., where it
+    forms Lake Bemba or Bangweolo, emerging thence it assumes the
+    new name Luapula, and comes down here to fall into Moero. On
+    going out of this Lake it is known by the name Lualaba, as it
+    flows N.W. in Rua to form another Lake with many islands called
+    Ureng� or Uleng�. Beyond this, information is not positive as to
+    whether it enters Tanganyika or another Lake beyond that. When I
+    crossed the Chambez�, the similarity of names led me to imagine
+    that this was a branch of the Zambesi. The natives said, "No.
+    This goes south-west, and forms a very large water there." But I
+    had become prepossessed with the idea that Lake Liemba was that
+    Bemba of which I had heard in 1863, and we had been so starved
+    in the south that I gladly set my face north. The river-like
+    prolongation of Liemba might go to Moero, and where I could not
+    follow the arm of Liemba. Then I worked my way to this Lake.
+    Since coming to Casembe's the testimony of natives and Arabs has
+    been so united and consistent, that I am but ten days from Lake
+    Bemba, or Bangweolo, that I cannot doubt its accuracy. I am so
+    tired of exploration without a word from home or anywhere else
+    for two years, that I must go to Ujiji on Tanganyika for letters
+    before doing anything else. The banks and country adjacent to
+    Lake Bangweolo are reported to be now very muddy and very
+    unhealthy. I have no medicine. The inhabitants suffer greatly
+    from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and
+    elephantiasis, and this is the rainy season and very unsafe for
+    me.
+
+    When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that it
+    was thought well to ascertain the length of the Lake, and see
+    Casembe too. We came up between the double range that flanks the
+    east of the Lake; but mountains and plains are so covered with
+    well-grown forest that we could seldom see it. We reached
+    Casembe's town on the 28th November. It stands near the north
+    end of the Lakelet Mofw�; this is from one to three miles broad,
+    and some six or seven long: it is full of sedgy islands, and
+    abounds in fish. The country is quite level, but fifteen or
+    twenty miles west of Mofw� we see a long range of the mountains
+    of Rua. Between this range and Mofw� the Luapula flows past into
+    Moero, the Lake called Moero okata = the great Moero, being
+    about fifty miles long. The town of Casembe covers a mile square
+    of cassava plantations, the huts being dotted over that space.
+    Some have square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been
+    made at arrangement: it might be called a rural village rather
+    than a town. No estimate could be formed by counting the huts,
+    they were so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava; but my
+    impression from other collections of huts was that the
+    population was under a thousand souls. The court or compound of
+    Casembe--some would call it a palace--is a square enclosure of
+    300 yards by 200 yards. It is surrounded by a hedge of high
+    reeds. Inside, where Casembe honoured me with a grand reception,
+    stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for
+    domestics. The Queen's hut stands behind that of the chief, with
+    a number of small huts also. Most of the enclosed space is
+    covered with a plantation of cassava, _Curcus purgaris_, and
+    cotton. Casembe sat before his hut on a equate seat placed on
+    lion and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and
+    white Manchester print edged with red baize, and arranged in
+    large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on wrong side
+    foremost. His arms, legs and head were covered with sleeves,
+    leggings and cap made of various coloured beads in neat
+    patterns: a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap. Each of
+    his headmen came forward, shaded by a huge, ill-made umbrella,
+    and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to Casembe, and
+    sat down on his right and left: various bands of musicians did
+    the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and an old
+    counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as full an
+    account as he had been able to gather during our stay of the
+    English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My having
+    passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe, and visited chiefs
+    of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most attention. He
+    then assured me that I was welcome to his country, to go where I
+    liked, and do what I chose. We then went (two boys carrying his
+    train behind him) to an inner apartment, where the articles of
+    my present were exhibited in detail. He had examined them
+    privately before, and we knew that he was satisfied. They
+    consisted of eight yards of orange-coloured serge, a large
+    striped tablecloth; another large cloth made at Manchester in
+    imitation of West Coast native manufacture, which never fails to
+    excite the admiration of Arabs and natives, and a large richly
+    gilded comb for the back hair, such as ladies wore fifty years
+    ago: this was given to me by a friend at Liverpool, and as
+    Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair into large knobs
+    behind, I was sure that this article would tickle the fancy.
+    Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again bade me welcome.
+
+    I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from selling
+    his people as slaves. He listened awhile, then broke off into a
+    tirade on the greatness of his country, his power and dominion,
+    which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been here for ten years,
+    turned into ridicule, and made the audience laugh by telling how
+    other Lunda chiefs had given me oxen and sheep, while Casembe
+    had only a poor little goat and some fish to bestow. He insisted
+    also that there were but two sovereigns in the world, the Sultan
+    of Zanzibar and Victoria. When we went on a third occasion to
+    bid Casembe farewell, he was much less distant, and gave me the
+    impression that I could soon become friends with him; but he has
+    an ungainly look, and an outward squint in each eye. A number of
+    human skulls adorned the entrance to his courtyard; and great
+    numbers of his principal men having their ears cropped, and some
+    with their hands lopped off, showed his barbarous way of making
+    his ministers attentive and honest. I could not avoid indulging
+    a prejudice against him.
+
+    The Portuguese visited Casembe long ago; but as each new Casembe
+    builds a new town, it is not easy to fix on the exact spot to
+    which strangers came. The last seven Casembes have had their
+    towns within seven miles of the present one. Dr. Lacerda,
+    Governor of Tette, on the Zambesi, was the only visitor of
+    scientific attainments, and he died at the rivulet called
+    Chungu, three or four miles from this. The spot is called
+    Nshinda, or Inchinda, which the Portuguese wrote Lucenda or
+    Ucenda. The latitude given is nearly fifty miles wrong, but the
+    natives say that he lived only ten days after his arrival, and
+    if, as is probable, his mind was clouded with fever when he last
+    observed, those who have experienced what that is will readily
+    excuse any mistake he may have made. His object was to
+    accomplish a much-desired project of the Portuguese to have an
+    overland communication between their eastern and western
+    possessions. This was never made by any of the Portuguese
+    nation; but two black traders succeeded partially with a part of
+    the distance, crossing once from Cassang�, in Angola, to Tette
+    on the Zambesi, and returning with a letter from the Governor
+    of Mosambique. It is remarkable that this journey, which was
+    less by a thousand miles than from sea to sea and back again,
+    should have for ever quenched all white Portuguese aspirations
+    for an overland route.
+
+    The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to have
+    varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first
+    visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 20,000
+    trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed
+    twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of human
+    sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present Casembe
+    could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When he
+    usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled;
+    but he was so severe in his punishments--cropping the ears,
+    lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling the
+    children for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually
+    dispersed themselves in the neighbouring countries beyond his
+    power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured in
+    parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The
+    present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed
+    elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of
+    the ivory with his subordinates. The elephant hunters have
+    either left him or neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to
+    sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major
+    Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to
+    have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other
+    of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much
+    by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that
+    Casembe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west of this
+    the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into large
+    bars shaped like the capital letter I. They may be met with of
+    from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs., weight all over the country, and the
+    inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and leglets.
+    Gold is also found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent
+    to the Sultan of Zanzibar.
+
+    As we come down from the watershed towards Tanganyika we enter an
+    area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal igneous
+    action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama is often used to
+    boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are by no means rare. We
+    experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's village, and
+    they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if afloat, and as huts
+    would not fall there was no sense of danger; some of them that
+    happened at night set the fowls a cackling. The most remarkable
+    effect of this one was that it changed the rates of the
+    chronometers; no rain fell after it. No one had access to the
+    chronometers but myself, and, as I never heard of this effect
+    before, I may mention that one which lost with great regularity
+    1.5 sec. daily, lost 15 sec.; another; whose rate since leaving
+    the coast was 15 sec., lost 40 sec.; and a third, which gained 6
+    sec. daily, stopped altogether. Some of Nsama's people ascribed
+    the earthquakes to the hot fountain, because it showed unusual
+    commotion on these occasions; another hot fountain exists near
+    Tanganyika than Nsama's, and we passed one on the shores of
+    Moero.
+
+    We could not understand why the natives called Moero much larger
+    than Tanganyika till we saw both. The greater Lake lies in a
+    comparatively narrow trough, with highland on each side, which
+    is always visible; but when we look at Moero, to the south of
+    the mountains of Rua on the west, we have nothing but an
+    apparently boundless sea horizon. The Luapula and Rovukw� form a
+    marsh at the southern extremity, and Casembe dissuaded me from
+    entering it, but sent a man to guide me to different points of
+    Moero further down. From the heights at which the southern
+    portions were seen, it must be from forty to sixty miles broad.
+    From the south end of the mountains of Rua (9� 4' south lat.) it
+    is thirty-three miles broad. No native ever attempts to cross
+    it even there. Its fisheries are of great value to the
+    inhabitants, and the produce is carried to great distances.
+
+    Among the vegetable products of this region, that which
+    interested me most was a sort of potato. It does not belong to
+    the solanaceous, but to the papilionaceous or pea family, and
+    its flowers have a delightful fragrance. It is easily propagated
+    by small cuttings of the root or stalk. The tuber is oblong,
+    like our kidney potato, and when boiled tastes exactly like our
+    common potato. When unripe it has a slight degree of bitterness,
+    and it is believed to be wholesome; a piece of the root eaten
+    raw is a good remedy in nausea. It is met with on the uplands
+    alone, and seems incapable of bearing much heat, though I kept
+    some of the roots without earth in a box, which was carried in
+    the sun almost daily for six months, without destroying their
+    vegetative power.
+
+    It is remarkable that in all the central regions of Africa
+    visited, the cotton is that known as the Pernambuco variety. It
+    has a long strong staple, seeds clustered together, and adherent
+    to each other. The bushes eight or ten feet high have woody
+    stems, and the people make strong striped black and white shawls
+    of the cotton.
+
+    It was pleasant to meet the palm-oil palm (_Elais Guineaensis_)
+    at Casembe's, which is over 3000 feet above the level of the
+    sea. The oil is sold cheap, but no tradition exists of its
+    introduction into the country.
+
+    I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet passed
+    over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of the whole
+    watershed of this region, and I regret that I cannot recommend
+    any of the published maps I have seen as giving even a tolerable
+    idea of the country. One bold constructor of maps has tacked on
+    200 miles to the north-west end of Lake Nyassa, a feat which no
+    traveller has ever ventured to imitate. Another has placed a
+    river in the same quarter running 3000 or 4000 feet up hill,
+    and named it the "NEW ZAMBESI," because I suppose the old
+    Zambesi runs down hill. I have walked over both these mental
+    abortions, and did not know that I was walking on water till I
+    saw them in the maps.
+
+[The despatch breaks off at this point. The year concludes with health
+impaired. As time goes on we shall see how ominous the conviction was
+which made him dread the swamps of Bangweolo.]
+
+_28-31st December, 1867._--We came on to the rivulet Chirongo, and
+then to the Kabukwa, where I was taken ill. Heavy rains kept the
+convoy back. I have had nothing but coarsely-ground sorghum meal for
+some time back, and am weak; I used to be the first in the line of
+march, and am now the last; Mohamad presented a meal of finely-ground
+porridge and a fowl, and I immediately felt the difference, though I
+was not grumbling at my coarse dishes. It is well that I did not go to
+Bangweolo Lake, for it is now very unhealthy to the natives, and I
+fear that without medicine continual wettings by fording rivulets
+might have knocked me up altogether. As I have mentioned, the people
+suffer greatly from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and
+Elephantiasis scroti.
+
+_1st January, 1868._--Almighty Father, forgive the sins of the past
+year for Thy Son's sake. Help me to be more profitable during this
+year. If I am to die this year prepare me for it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I bought five hoes at two or three yards of calico each: they are
+13-1/2 inches by 6-1/2 inches; many are made in Casembe's country, and
+this is the last place we can find them: when we come into Buir� we
+can purchase a good goat for one; one of my goats died and the other
+dried up. I long for others, for milk is the most strengthening food
+I can get.
+
+My guide to Moero came to-day, and I visited the Lake several times,
+so as to get a good idea of its size. The first fifteen miles in the
+north are from twelve or more to thirty-three miles broad. The great
+mass of the Rua Mountains confines it. Thus in a clear day a lower
+range is seen continued from the high point of the first mass away to
+the west south-west, this ends, and sea horizon is alone visible away
+to the south and west; from the height we viewed it at, the width must
+be over forty, perhaps sixty miles. A large island, called Kirwa,[59]
+is situated between the Mandapala and Kabukwa Rivers, but nearest to
+the other shore. The natives never attempt to cross any part of the
+Lake south of this Kirwa. Land could not be seen with a good glass on
+the clearest day we had. I can understand why the natives pronounced
+Moero to be larger than Tanganyika: in the last named they see the
+land always on both sides; it is like a vast trough flanked with
+highlands, but at Moero nothing but sea horizon can be seen when one
+looks south-west of the Rua Mountains.
+
+At the Kalongosi meadow one of Mohamad's men shot a buffalo, and he
+gave me a leg of the good beefy flesh. Our course was slow, caused
+partly by rains, and partly by waiting for the convoy. The people at
+Kalongosi were afraid to ferry us or any of his people in the convoy
+out of Casembe's country; but at last we gave a good fee, and their
+scruples yielded: they were influenced also by seeing other villagers
+ready to undertake the job; the latter nearly fought over us on seeing
+that their neighbours got all the fare.
+
+We then came along the Lake, and close to its shores. The moisture
+caused a profusion of gingers, ferns, and tropical forest: buffaloes,
+zebras and elephants are numerous, and the villagers at Chukosi's,
+where we slept, warned us against lions and leopards.
+
+_12th January, 1868._--Sunday at Karembw�'s village. The mountains
+east of him are called Makunga. We went yesterday to the shore, and by
+protraction Rua point was distant thirty-three miles. Karembw� sent
+for us, to have an audience; he is a large man with a gruff voice, but
+liked by his people and by strangers. I gave him a cloth, and he gave
+me a goat. The enthusiasm with which I held on to visit Moero had
+communicated itself to Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alle, for they followed
+me up to this place to see the Lake, and remained five days while we
+were at Casembe's. Other Arabs, or rather Suahelis, must have seen it,
+but never mentioned it as anything worth looking at; and it was only
+when all hope of ivory was gone that these two headmen found time to
+come. There is a large population here.
+
+_13th January, 1868._--Heavy rains. Karemb� mentioned a natural
+curiosity as likely to interest me: a little rivulet, Chipamba, goes
+some distance underground, but is uninteresting.
+
+Next day we crossed the Vuna, a strong torrent, which, has a hot
+fountain close by the ford, in which maize and cassava may be boiled.
+A large one in Nsama's country is used in the same way, maize and
+cassava being tied to a string and thrown in to be cooked: some
+natives believe that earthquakes are connected with its violent
+ebullitions. We crossed the Kat�tt�, another strong torrent, before
+reaching the north end of Moero, where we slept in some travellers'
+huts.
+
+Leaving the Lake, and going north, we soon got on to a plain flooded
+by the Luao. We had to wade through very adhesive black mud, generally
+ankle deep, and having many holes in it much deeper: we had four
+hours of this, and then came to the ford of the Luao itself. We waded
+up a branch of it waist deep for at least a quarter of a mile, then
+crossed a narrow part by means of a rude bridge of branches and trees,
+of about forty yards width. The Luao, in spreading over the plains,
+confers benefits on the inhabitants, though I could not help
+concluding it imparts disease too, for the black mud in places smells
+horribly. Great numbers of Siluridae, chiefly _Clarias Capensis_,
+often three feet in length, spread over the flooded portions of the
+country, eating the young of other fishes, and insects, lizards, and
+worms, killed by the waters. The people make weirs for them, and as
+the waters retire kill large numbers, which they use as a relish to
+their farinaceous food.
+
+_16th January, 1868._--After sleeping near the Luao we went on towards
+the village, in which Mohamad's son lives. It is on the Kakoma Eiver,
+and is called Kabwabwata, the village of Mubao. In many of the
+villages the people shut their stockades as soon as we appear, and
+stand bows and arrows in hand till we have passed: the reason seems to
+be that the slaves when out of sight of their masters carry things
+with a high hand, demanding food and other things as if they had power
+and authority. One slave stole two tobacco pipes yesterday in passing
+through a village; the villagers complained to me when I came up, and
+I waited till Mohamad came and told him; we then went forward, the men
+keeping close to me till we got the slave and the pipes. They stole
+cassava as we went along, but this could scarcely be prevented. They
+laid hold of a plant an inch-and-a-half thick, and tore it out of the
+soft soil with its five or six roots as large as our largest carrots,
+stowed the roots away in their loads, and went on eating them; but the
+stalk thrown among those still growing shows the theft. The raw roots
+are agreeable and nutritious. No great harm is done by this, for the
+gardens are so large, but it inspires distrust in the inhabitants, and
+makes it dangerous for Arabs to travel not fully manned and armed.
+
+On reaching the village Kabwabwata a great demonstration was made by
+Mohamad's Arab dependants and Wanyamwesi: the women had their faces
+all smeared with pipeclay, and lullilooed with all their might. When
+we came among the huts, they cast handfuls of soil on their heads,
+while the men fired off their guns as fast as they could load them.
+Those connected with Mohamad ran and kissed his hands, and fired, till
+the sound of shouting, lullilooing, clapping of hands, and shooting
+was deafening: Mohamad was quite overcome by this demonstration, and
+it was long before he could still them.
+
+On the way to this village from the south we observed an extensive
+breadth of land, under ground-nuts which are made into oil: a large
+jar of this is sold for a hoe. The ground-nuts were now in flower, and
+green maize ready to be eaten. People all busy planting,
+transplanting, or weeding; they plant cassava on mounds prepared for
+it, on which they have sown beans, sorghum, maize, pumpkins: these
+ripen, and leave the cassava a free soil. The sorghum or dura is sown
+thickly, and when about a foot high--if the owner has been able to
+prepare the soil elsewhere--it is transplanted, a portion of the
+leaves being cut off to prevent too great evaporation and the death of
+the plant.
+
+_17th January, 1868._--The Wanyamwesi and people of Garaganza say that
+we have thirteen days' march from this to the Tanganyika Lake. It is
+often muddy, and many rivulets are to be crossed.
+
+Mohamad is naturally anxious to stay a little while with his son, for
+it is a wet season, and the mud is disagreeable to travel over: it is
+said to be worse near Ujiji: he cooks small delicacies for me with the
+little he has, and tries to make me comfortable. Vinegar is made from
+bananas, and oil from ground-nuts. I am anxious to be off, but
+chiefly to get news.
+
+I find that many Unyamwesi people are waiting here, on account of the
+great quantity of rainwater in front: it would be difficult, they say,
+to get canoes on Tanganyika, as the waves are now large.
+
+_24th January, 1868._--Two of Mohamad Bogharib's people came from
+Casembe's to trade here, and a body of Syde bin Habib's people also
+from Garaganza, near Kaz�, they report the flooded lands on this side
+of Lake Tanganyika as waist and chest deep. Bin Habib, being at
+Katanga, will not stir till the rains are over, and I fear we are
+storm-stayed till then too. The feeders of the Marungu are not
+fordable just now, and no canoes are to be had.
+
+_26th and 27th January, 1868._--I am ill with fever, as I always am
+when stationary.
+
+_28th January, 1868._--Better, and thankful to Him of the Greatest
+Name. We must remain; it is a dry spot, and favourable for
+ground-nuts. _Hooping-cough_ here.
+
+_30th January, 1868._--The earth cooled by the rain last night sets
+all to transplanting dura or sorghum; they cut the leaves till only
+about eighteen inches of them are left, but it grows all the better
+for the change of place.
+
+Mohamad believes that Tanganyika flows through Rusizi to Lohind�.
+(Chuambo.)
+
+Seyd Seyd is said to have been the first Arab Sultan who traded, and
+Seyed Majid follows the example of his father, and has many Arab
+traders in his employment. He lately sent eight buffaloes to Mt�za,
+king of Uganda, son of Sunna, by way of increasing his trade, but if
+is not likely that he will give up the lucrative trade in ivory and
+slaves.
+
+Susi bought a hoe with a little gunpowder, then a cylinder of dura,
+three feet long by two feet in diameter, for the hoe: it is at least
+one hundredweight.
+
+Stone underground houses are reported in Rua, but whether natural or
+artificial Mohamad could not say. If a present is made to the Rua
+chiefs they never obstruct passengers.
+
+Chikosi, at whose village we passed a night, near Kalongosi, and
+Chiputa are both dead.
+
+The Mofw� fills during the greater rains, and spreads over a large
+district; elephants then wander in its marshes, and are killed easily
+by people in canoes: this happens every year, and Mohamad Bogharib
+waits now for this ivory.
+
+_7th to 21st February, 1868._--On inquiring of men who lave seen the
+underground houses in Rua, I find that they are very extensive,
+ranging along mountain sides for twenty miles, and in one part a
+rivulet flows inside. In some cases the doorways are level with the
+country adjacent: in others, ladders are used to climb up to them;
+inside they are said to be very large, and not the work of men, but of
+God. The people have plenty of fowls, and they too obtain shelter in
+these Troglodyte habitations.
+
+_23rd February, 1868._--I was visited by an important chief called
+Chap�, who said that he wanted to make friends with the English. He,
+Chisapi, Sama, Muabo, Karembw�, are of one tribe or family, the Oanza:
+he did not beg anything, and promised to send me a goat.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[59] Kirwa and its various corruptions, such as Shirwa, Chirua, and
+Kiroa, perpetually recur in Africa, and would almost seem to stand for
+"the island."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment.
+    Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of
+    Lake Chowamb�. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold
+    supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib.
+    Birthday 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpw�to. Contemplates
+    visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of
+    Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Beturn to Casembe's. Obstructiveness
+    of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major
+    Monteiro. The line of Casembe's. Casembe explains the connection
+    of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Mo�ri. Arab sacrifice.
+    Kapika gets rid of his wife.
+
+_24th February, 1868._--Some slaves who came with Mohamad Bogharib's
+agent, abused my men this morning, as bringing unclean meat into the
+village to sell, though it had been killed by a man of the Wanyamwesi.
+They called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!" and Susi, roused by this, launched
+forth with a stick; the others joined in the row, and the offenders
+were beat off, but they went and collected all their number and
+renewed the assault. One threw a heavy block of wood and struck Simon
+on the head, making him quite insensible and convulsed for some time.
+He has three wounds on the head, which may prove serious. This is the
+first outburst of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and by those who know
+so little of the creed that it is questionable if one of them can
+repeat the formula: "La illaha illa lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu,
+a leihi oa Salama." Simon recovered, but Gallahs are in general not
+strong.
+
+_25th February, 1868._--Mohamad called on me this morning to apologise
+for the outrage of yesterday, but no one was to blame except the
+slaves, and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were cautioned
+for the future. It seems, plain that if they do not wish to buy the
+unclean meat they can let it alone,--no harm is done. The Wanyamwesi
+kill for all, and some Mohamadans say that they won't eat of it, but
+their wives and people do eat it privately.
+
+I asked Mohamad to-day if it were true that he was a prisoner at
+Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some Garaganza people, now at
+Katanga, fought with Casembe, and Mohamad was suspected of being
+connected with them. Casembe attacked his people, and during the
+turmoil a hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from him, and many
+of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner till sixty of his
+people were either killed or died, among these Mohamad's eldest son:
+he was thus reduced to poverty. He gave something to Casembe to allow
+him to depart, and I suspect that my Sultan's letter had considerable
+influence in inducing Casembe to accede to his request, for he
+repeated again and again in my hearing that he must pay respect to my
+letter, and see me safe at least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad says that he
+will not return to Casembe again, but will begin to trade with some
+other chief: it is rather hard for a man at his age to begin _de
+novo_. He is respected among the Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good
+man. He says that he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never
+saw an outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi: it is,
+however, common for the people at Ujiji to drink palm toddy, and then
+have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad feeling exists next day.
+
+If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is killed,
+as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. When I was amongst
+the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekel�tu's wives would not allow her
+servant's child to be killed for this, but few would have the courage
+to act in opposition to public feeling as she did. In Casembe's
+country if a child is seen to turn from one side to the other in
+sleep it is killed. They say of any child who has what they consider
+these defects "he is an Arab child," because the Arabs have none of
+this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be near they give the
+child to him: it would bring ill-luck, misfortunes, "milando," or
+guilt, to the family. These superstitions may account for the
+readiness with which one tribe parted with their children to Speke's
+followers. Mohamad says that these children must have been taken in
+war, as none sell their own offspring.
+
+If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he puts the man to
+death, as one who is practising secret arts against his life: if any
+one is pounding or cooking food for him he must preserve the strictest
+silence; these and other things show extreme superstition and
+degradation.
+
+During, his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised him to leave
+Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their men, but he always
+refused. His father was the first to open this country to trade with
+the Arabs, and all his expenses while so doing were borne by himself;
+but Mohamad seems to be a man of peace, and unwilling to break the
+appearance of friendship with the chiefs. He thinks that this Casembe
+poisoned his predecessor: he certainly killed his wife's mother, a
+queen, that she might be no obstacle to him in securing her daughter.
+
+We are waiting in company with a number of Wanyamwesi for the
+cessation of the rains, which have flooded the country between this
+and Tanganyika. If there were much slope this water would flow off:
+this makes me suspect that Tanganyika is not so low as Speke's
+measurement. The Arabs are positive that water flows from that Lake to
+the Victoria Nyanza, and assert that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika,
+was anxious to send canoes from his place to Ujiji, or, as some say,
+to dig a canal to Ujiji. The Wanyamwesi here support themselves by
+shooting buffaloes, at a place two days distant, and selling the meat
+for grain and cassava: no sooner is it known that an animal is killed,
+than the village women crowd in here, carrying their produce to
+exchange it for meat, which they prefer to beads or anything else.
+Their farinaceous food creates a great craving for flesh: were my
+shoes not done I would go in for buffaloes too.
+
+A man from the upper part of Tanganyika gives the same account of the
+river from Rusisi that Burton and Speke received when they went to its
+mouth. He says that the water of the Lake goes up some distance, but
+is met by Rusisi water, and driven back thereby. The Lake water, he
+adds, finds an exit northwards and eastwards by several small rivers
+which would admit small canoes only. They pour into Lake
+Chowamb�--probably that discovered by Mr. Baker. This Chowamb� is in
+Hundi, the country of cannibals, but the most enlightened informants
+leave the impression on the mind of groping in the dark: it may be all
+different when we come to see it.
+
+The fruit of the palm, which yields palm-oil, is first of all boiled,
+then pounded in a mortar, then put into hot or boiling water, and the
+oil skimmed off. The palm-oil is said to be very abundant at Ujiji, as
+much as 300 gallons being often brought into the bazaar for sale in
+one morning; the people buy it eagerly for cooking purposes. Mohamad
+says that the Island of Pemba, near Zanzibar, contains many of these
+palms, but the people are ignorant of the mode of separating the oil
+from the nut: they call the palm Nkoma at Casembe's, and Chikichi at
+Zanzibar.[60]
+
+No better authority for what has been done or left undone by
+Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad bin Saleh, for he
+is very intelligent, and takes an interest in all that happens, and
+his father was equally interested in this country's affairs. He
+declares that no attempt was ever made by Mohamadans to proselytize
+the Africans: they teach their own children to read the Koran, but
+them only; it is never translated, and to servants who go to the
+Mosque it is all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan bigotry
+about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to make
+_halel_, or fit to slaughter the animals for their master, is the
+utmost advance any have made. As the Arabs in East Africa never feel
+themselves called on to propagate the doctrines of Islam, among the
+heathen Africans, the statement of Captain Burton that they would make
+better missionaries to the Africans than Christians, because they
+would not insist on the abandonment of polygamy, possesses the same
+force as if he had said Mohamadans would catch more birds than
+Christians, because they would put salt on their tails. The
+indispensable requisite or qualification for any kind of missionary is
+that he have some wish to proselytize: this the Arabs do not possess
+in the slightest degree.
+
+As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best means of
+influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to understand what they
+are about. When we were teaching adults the alphabet, they felt it a
+hard task. "Give me medicine, I shall drink it to make me understand
+it," was their earnest entreaty. When they have advanced so far as to
+form clear conceptions of Old Testament and Gospel histories, they
+tell them to their neighbours; and, on visiting distant tribes, feel
+proud to show how much they know: in this way the knowledge of
+Christianity becomes widely diffused. Those whose hatred to its
+self-denying doctrines has become developed by knowledge, propagate
+slanders; but still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention.
+The plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting
+knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem in dealing
+with dumb show. I have, however, been astonished to see that none of
+the Africans imitate the Arab prayers: considering their great
+reverence of the Deity, it is a wonder that they do not learn to
+address prayers to Him except on very extraordinary occasions.
+
+My remarks referring to the education by Mohamadans do not refer to
+the Suahelis, for they teach their children to read, and even send
+them to school. They are the descendants of Arab and African women and
+inhabit the coast line. Although they read, they understand very
+little Arabic beyond the few words which have been incorporated into
+Suaheli. The establishment of Moslem missions among the heathen is
+utterly unknown, and this is remarkable, because the Wanyamwesi, for
+instance, are very friendly with the Arabs--are great traders, too,
+like them, and are constantly employed as porters and native traders,
+being considered very trustworthy. They even acknowledge Seyed Majid's
+authority. The Arabs speak of all the Africans as _"Gumu_" that is
+hard or callous to the Mohamadan religion.
+
+Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as in Egypt, and
+that Moses visited it of old.
+
+Mungo Park mentions that he found the Africans in the far interior of
+the west in possession of the stories of Joseph and his brethren, and
+others. They probably got them from the Koran, as verbally explained
+by some liberal Mullah, and showed how naturally they spread any new
+ideas they obtained: they were astonished to find that Park knew the
+stories.
+
+The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for the gold in their country
+because they believe that it has been hidden where it is by "Ngolu,"
+who is the owner of it. The Arabs translate Ngolu by Satan: it means
+M�zimo, or departed spirits, too. The people are all oppressed by
+their superstitions; the fear of death is remarkably strong. The
+Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were killed, death
+would visit the village; this too is the case with the small Whydah
+birds, the fear of death in the minds of the people saves them from
+molestation. But why should we be so prone to criticise? A remnant of
+our own superstitions is seen in the prejudice against sitting down
+thirteen to dinner, spilling the salt, and not throwing a little of it
+over the left shoulder. Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in passing
+through the streets, perpetually put one hand into his pockets to
+cross the thumb over the finger in order to avert the influence of the
+evil eye!
+
+On the 6th, Muabo, the great chief of these parts, came to call on
+Mohamad: several men got up and made some antics before him, then
+knelt down and did obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped about a
+little, and all applauded. He is a good-natured-looking man, fond of a
+joke, and always ready with a good-humoured smile: he was praised very
+highly, Mpw�to was nothing to Muabo mokolu, the great Muabo; and he
+returned the praise by lauding Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native
+name, which means, "Give me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few of
+the ungainly antics like the natives, and all were highly pleased, and
+went off rejoicing.
+
+Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands in the Nyanza
+Lake has the power of speaking, and is the same that beguiled Eve. It
+is a crime at Ujiji to kill a serpent, even though it enters a house
+and kills a kid! The native name, for the people of Ujiji is Wayeiy�,
+the very same as the people on the Zouga, near Lake Ngami. They are
+probably an offshoot from Ujiji.[61]
+
+There are underground stone houses in Kabiur�, in the range called
+Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention. _15th March,
+1868._--The roots of the Nyumbo or Noombo open in four or five months
+from the time of planting, those planted by me on the 6th February
+have now stalks fifteen inches long. The root is reported to be a very
+wholesome food, never disagreeing with the stomach; and the raw root
+is an excellent remedy in obstinate vomiting and nausea; four or five
+tubers are often given by one root, in Marungu they attain a size of
+six inches in length by two in diameter.
+
+_16th March, 1868._--We started for Mpw�to's village, which is
+situated on the Lualaba, and in our course crossed the Lokinda, which
+had a hundred yards of flood water on each side of it. The river
+itself is forty yards wide, with a rude bridge over it, as it flows
+fast away into Moero.
+
+Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached the village of
+Mpw�to, situated in a valley between two ridges, about one mile from
+the right bank of the Lualaba, where it comes through the mountains.
+It then flows about two miles along the base of a mountain lying east
+and west before it begins to make northing: its course is reported to
+be very winding, this seems additional evidence that Tanganyika is not
+in a depression of only 1844 feet above the sea, otherwise the water
+of Lualaba would flow faster and make a straighter channel. It is said
+to flow into the Lufira, and that into Tanganyika.
+
+_18th March, 1868._--On reaching Mpw�to's yesterday we were taken up
+to the house of Syde bin Habib, which is built on a ridge overhanging
+the chiefs village, a square building of wattle and plaster, and a mud
+roof to prevent it being fired by an enemy. It is a very pretty spot
+among the mountains. Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a
+basket of flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpw�to, which he
+politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his village,
+but if we waited two days he would have some prepared, and would then
+see us. He knew what we should give him, and he need not tell us I
+met a man from Sesk�k�, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and now with
+him here.
+
+A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in every way,
+and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very Venus in black.
+The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the West Coast is common in
+Rua, and tamed by the natives.[62]
+
+_19th March, 1868._[63]--(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more and
+serve Thee better.)
+
+The favourite son of Mpw�to called on us; his father is said to do
+nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to be endowed with
+much wisdom.
+
+_20th and 21st March, 1868._--Our interview was put off; and then a
+sight of the cloth we were to give was required. I sent a good large
+cloth, and explained that we were nearly out of goods now, having been
+travelling two years, and were going to Ujiji to get more. Mpw�to had
+prepared a quantity of pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when
+he looked at them and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a
+poor bargain, so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given
+him many cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another
+cloth he would not see me. "He had never slept with only one cloth."
+"I had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away."
+
+It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival, Muabo,
+before visiting him. He would not see Syde bin Habib for eight days;
+and during that time was using charms to try if it would be safe to
+see him at all: on the ninth day he peeped past a door for some time
+to see if Bin Habib were a proper person, and then came out: he is
+always very suspicious.
+
+At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did not move, he
+would come with all his people and drive us off. Sariamo said if he
+were not afraid for Syde bin Habib's goods, he would make a stand
+against Mpw�to; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a
+worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (_24th March._) He
+abused a native trader with his tongue for coming to trade, and sent
+him away too. We slept again at our half-way village, Kapemba, just as
+a party of salt-traders from Rua came into it: they were tall,
+well-made men, and rather dark.
+
+_25th March, 1868._--Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and were welcomed by
+Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But, accompanied us; but
+Mohamad told us previously that it was likely Mpw�to would refuse to
+see us.
+
+The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is impossible to
+go north: the Wanyamwesi, who are detained here as well as we, say it
+is often more than a man's depth, and there are no canoes. They would
+not stop here if a passage home could be made. I am thinking of going
+to Lake Bemba, because at least two months must be passed here still
+before a passage can be made; but my goods are getting done, and I
+cannot give presents to the chiefs on our way.
+
+This Lake has a sandy, not muddy bottom, as we were at first informed,
+and there are four islands in it, one, the Bangweolo, is very large,
+and many people live on it; they have goats and sheep in abundance:
+the owners of canoes demand three hoes for the hire of one capable of
+carrying eight or ten persons; beyond this island it is sea horizon
+only. The ts�bula and nzo� antelopes abound. The people desire salt
+and not beads for sale.
+
+_2nd April, 1868._--If I am not deceived by the information I have
+received from various reliable sources, the springs of the Nile rise
+between 9� and 10� south latitude, or at least 400 or 500 miles south
+of the south end of Speke's Lake, which he considered to be the
+sources of the Nile. Tanganyika is declared to send its water through
+north into Lake Chowamb� or Baker's Lake; if this does not prove
+false, then Tanganyika is an expansion of the Nile, and so is Lake
+Chowamb�; the two Lakes being connected by the River Loanda.
+Unfortunately the people on the east side of the Loanda are constantly
+at war with the people on the west of it, or those of Rusisi. The
+Arabs have been talking of opening up a path through to Chowamb�,
+where much ivory is reported; I hope that the Most High may give me a
+way there.
+
+_11th April, 1868._--I had a long oration from Mohamad yesterday
+against going off for Bemba to-morrow. His great argument is the
+extortionate way of Casembe, who would demand cloth, and say that in
+pretending to go to Ujiji I had told him lies: he adds to this
+argument that this is the last month of the rains; the Masika has
+begun, and our way north will soon be open. The fact of the matter is
+that Mohamad, by not telling me of the superabundance of water in the
+country of the Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose
+five months. He knew that we should be detained here, but he was so
+eager to get out of his state of durance with Casembe that he hastened
+my departure by asserting that we should be at Ujiji in one month. I
+regret this deception, but it is not to be wondered at, and in a
+Mohamadan and in a Christian too it is thought clever. Were my goods
+not nearly done I would go, and risk the displeasure of Casembe for
+the chance of discovering the Lake Bemba. I thought once of buying
+from Mohamad Bogharib, but am afraid that his stock may be getting low
+too: I fear that I must give up this Lake for the present.
+
+_12th April, 1868._--I think of starting to-morrow for Bangweolo, even
+if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him: we shall be better there than
+we are here, for everything at Kabwabwata is scarce and dear. There we
+can get a fowl for one string of beads, here it costs six: there fish
+may be bought, here none. Three of Casembe's principal men are here,
+Kakwata, Charley, and Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and
+would be a gain to me, but Mohamad detains them, and when I ask his
+reason he says "Muabo refuses," but they point to Mohamad's house and
+say, "It is he who refuses."
+
+[A very serious desertion took place at this time amongst Dr.
+Livingstone's followers. Not to judge them too harshly they had become
+to a great extent demoralised by camp life with Mohamad and his horde
+of slaves and slavers. The Arab tried all he could to dissuade the
+traveller from proceeding south instead of homewards through Ujiji,
+and the men seem to have found their own breaking-point where this
+disappointment occurred.]
+
+_13th April, 1868._--On preparing to start this morning my people
+refused to go: the fact is, they are all tired, and Mohamad's
+opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was evidently eager to make
+capital out of their refusal, asked me to remain over to-day, and then
+demanded what I was going to do with those who had absconded. I said,
+"Nothing: if a magistrate were on the spot, I would give them over to
+him." "Oh," said he, "I am magistrate, shall I apprehend them?" To
+this I assented. He repeated this question till it was tiresome: I saw
+his reason long afterwards, when he asserted that I "came to him and
+asked him to bind them, but he had refused:" he wanted to appear to
+the people as much better than I am.
+
+_14th April, 1868._--I start off with five attendants, leaving most of
+the luggage with Mohamad, and reach the Luao to spend the night.
+Headman Ndowa.
+
+_15th April, 1868._--Amoda ran away early this morning. "Wishes to
+stop with his brothers." They think that, by refusing to go to Bemba,
+they will force me to remain with them, and then go to Ujiji: one of
+them has infused the idea into their minds that I will not pay them,
+and exclaims "Look at the sepoys!"--not knowing that they are paid by
+the Indian Government; and as for the Johanna men, they were prepaid
+_29l. 4s._ in cash, besides clothing. I sent Amoda's bundle back to
+Mohamad: my messenger got to Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and he
+presented himself to my Arab friend, who, of course, scolded him: he
+replied that he was tired of carrying, and no other fault had he; I
+may add that I found out that Amoda wished to come south to me with
+one of Mohamad Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return.
+Now that I was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to Mohamad
+that I would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had done all in my
+power to reach the Lake I sought: I would even prefer waiting at Luao
+or Moero, till people came to me from Ujiji to supplant the runaways.
+I did not blame them very severely in my own mind for absconding: they
+were tired of tramping, and so verily am I, but Mohamad, in
+encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a double tongue,
+cannot be exonerated from blame. Little else can be expected from him,
+he has lived some thirty-five years in the country, twenty-five being
+at Casembe's, and there he had often to live by his wits.
+Consciousness of my own defects makes me lenient.
+
+_16th April, 1868._--Ndowa gives Mita or Mpama�kanana as the names of
+the excavations in Muabo's hills, he says that they are sufficient to
+conceal all the people of this district in case of war: I conjecture
+that this implies room for ten thousand people: provisions are stored
+in them, and a perennial rivulet runs along a whole street of them. On
+one occasion, when the main entrance was besieged by an enemy, someone
+who knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a party out by a
+secret passage, and they, coming over the invaders, drove them off
+with heavy loss. Their formation is universally ascribed to the Deity.
+This may mean that the present inhabitants have succeeded the original
+burrowing race, which dug out many caves adjacent to Mount Hor--the
+_Jebel N�bi Harin_, Mount of the Prophet Aaron, of the Arabs--and many
+others; and even the Bushman caves, a thousand miles south of this
+region.
+
+A very minute, sharp-biting mosquito is found here: the women try to
+drive them out of their huts by whisking bundles of green leaves all
+round the walls before turning into them.
+
+_17th August, 1868._--Crossed the Luao by a bridge, thirty yards long,
+and more than half a mile of flood on each side; passed many villages,
+standing on little heights, which overlook plains filled with water.
+Some three miles of grassy plains abreast of Moero were the deepest
+parts, except the banks of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the
+bottom being generally black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in
+the paths by the feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud,
+and, as they could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge,
+and when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud, half-way
+up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very fatiguing. To
+avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the sides of the paths,
+but often stepping on the unseen edge of a rut, we floundered in with
+both feet to keep the balance, and this was usually followed by a rush
+of bubbles to the surface, which, bursting, discharged foul air of
+frightful faecal odour. In parts, the black mud and foul water were
+cold, in others hot, according as circulation went on or not. When we
+came near Moero, the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all
+perishable articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of
+fishermen on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid
+waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83� at 3 P.M.
+
+_18th April, 1868._--We marched along the north end of Moero, which
+has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is flanked by
+a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees, added to the
+fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted fisherman's village near
+the eastern hills, we gladly made it our quarters for Sunday (19th). I
+made no mark, but the Lake is at least twenty feet higher now than it
+was on our first visits, and there are banks showing higher rises even
+than this.
+
+Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for catching
+small fish; one man at each basket drives fish ashore.
+
+_20th April, 1868._--Went on to Kat�tt� River, and then to a strong
+torrent; slept at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna,
+where, near the hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook
+cassava and maize.
+
+_21st April, 1868._--Crossed the Vuna and went on to Kalembw�'s
+village, meeting the chief at the gate, who guided us to a hut, and
+manifested great curiosity to see all our things; he asked if we could
+not stop next day and drink beer, which would then be ready. Leopards
+abound here. The Lake now seems broader than ever.
+
+I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose could be
+turned to any account except to hold an ornament, though that is
+usually only a bit of grass, but a man sewing the feathers on his
+arrows used his nose-hole for holding a needle! In coming on to
+Kangalola we found the country swimming: I got separated from the
+company, though I saw them disappear in the long grass not a hundred
+yards off and shouted, but the splashing of their feet prevented any
+one hearing. I could not find a path going south, so I took one to the
+east to a village; the grass was so long and tangled, I could scarcely
+get along, at last I engaged a man to show me the main path south, and
+he took me to a neat village of a woman--Nyinakasangaand would go no
+further, "Mother Kasanga," as the name means, had been very handsome,
+and had a beautiful daughter, probably another edition of herself, she
+advised my waiting in the deep shade of the Ficus indica, in which her
+houses were placed. I fired a gun, and when my attendants came gave
+her a string of beads, which made her express distress at my "leaving
+without drinking anything of hers." People have abandoned several
+villages on account of the abundance of ferocious wild beasts.
+
+_23rd April, 1868._--Through very thick tangled Nyassi grass to
+Chikosi's burned village; Nsama had killed him. We spent the night in
+a garden hut, which the fire of the village had spared. Turnips were
+growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or long coarse grass, hangs over the
+paths, and in pushing it aside the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes
+and are very annoying. The grass itself rubs on the face and eyes
+disagreeably: when it is burned off and greensward covers the soil it
+is much more pleasant walking.
+
+24th _April, 1868._--We leave Chikosi's ruins and make for the ford of
+the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom all over the forest, and so
+are foxgloves. The river is here fully 100 yards broad with 300 yards
+of flood on its western bank; so deep we had to remain in the canoes
+till within 50 yards of the higher ground. The people here chew the
+pith of the papyrus, which is three inches in diameter and as white as
+snow: it has very little sweetness or anything else in it. The headman
+of the village to which we went was out cutting wood for a garden, and
+his wife refused us a hut, but when Kansabala came in the evening he
+scolded his own spouse roundly and all the wives of the village, and
+then pressed me to come indoors, but I was well enough in my mosquito
+curtain without, and declined: I was free from insects and vermin, and
+few huts are so.
+
+_25th April, 1868._--Off early west, and then on to an elevated forest
+land, in which our course was S.S.W. to the great bend of the rivulet
+Kifurwa, which enters Moero near to the mouth of the Kalungosi.
+
+_26th April, 1868._--Here we spent Sunday in our former woodcutters'
+huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the same occupation, laden
+with bark-cloth, which they had just been stripping off the trees.
+Their leader would not come along the path because I was sitting near
+it: I invited him to do so, but it would have been disrespectful to
+let his shadow fall on any part of my person, so he went a little out
+of the way: this politeness is common.
+
+_27th April, 1868._--But a short march to Fungafunga's village: we
+could have gone on to the Muatiz�, but no village exists there, and
+here we could buy food. Fungafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to
+the stranger: on afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said,
+"That is your village; always go that way and eat my provisions." He
+is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, and slaves.
+Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus sorghum in spite of the
+shouts of the women.
+
+We cross Muatiz� by a bridge of one large tree, getting a good view of
+Moero from a hill near Kabukwa, and sleep at Chirongo River.
+
+_29th April, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. Some men here from the
+Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of Casembe, made a great
+outcry against our coming a second time to Casembe without waiting at
+the Kalungosi for permission. One of them, with his ears cropped short
+off, asked me when I was departing north if I should come again. I
+replied, "Yes, I think I shall." They excited themselves by calling
+over the same thing again and again. "The English come the second
+time!" "The second time--the second time--the country spoiled! Why not
+wait at the Kalungosi? Let him return thither." "Come from Mpamari
+too, and from the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi!!" "The second time--the
+second time!" Then all the adjacent villagers were called in to
+settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher Power to
+influence their minds as He has often done before. I persuaded them to
+refer the matter to Casembe himself by sending a man with one of mine
+up to the town. They would not consent to go on to the Chungu, as the
+old cropped-eared man would have been obliged to come back the
+distance again, he having been on the way to the Kalungosi as a
+sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and fair, but his people
+are neither, and will do anything to mulct either strangers or their
+own countrymen.
+
+_30th April, 1868._--The cold of winter has begun, and dew is
+deposited in great quantities, but all the streams are very high in
+flood, though the rains have ceased here some time.
+
+_1st May, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. I sent a request to Mohamad
+Bogharib to intercede with Casembe for me for a man to show the way to
+Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. I fear that I have become mixed up
+in the Lunda mind with Mpamari (Mohamad bin Saleh), from having gone
+off with him and returning ere we reached Ujiji, whither ostensibly we
+were bound. I may be suspected of being in his confidence, and of
+forwarding his plans by coming back. A deaf and dumb man appears among
+the people here, making signs exactly as I have seen such do in
+England, and occasionally emitting a low unmodulated guttural drawl
+like them.
+
+_3rd May, 1868._--Abraham, my messenger, came back, while we were at
+afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but what made Cropped-ears
+quite chopfallen was that Casembe was quite gracious! He did not wish
+me to go away, and now I am welcome back; and as soon as we hear of
+peace at Chikumbi's we shall have a man to conduct us thither. The
+Mazitu were reported to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's country;
+and it was said that chief had fled, and Casembe had sent messengers
+to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most High for His kindness and
+influence.
+
+_4th May, 1868._--We leave the Mandapala. Cropped-ears, whose name I
+never heard, collapsed at once on hearing the message of Casembe:
+before that I never heard such a babbler, to every one passing, man or
+woman, he repeated the same insinuations about the English, and
+"Mpamari," and the Banyamwezi,--conspiracy--guilt--return a second
+time,--till, like a meddling lawyer, he thought that he had really got
+an important case in hand!
+
+The River Chungu we found to be from fifteen to eighteen yards broad
+and breast deep, with at least one hundred yards of flood, before we
+reached the main stream, the Mandapala. The Chungu and the Lundi join
+in the country called Kimbafuma, about twelve miles from our
+crossing-place of Mandapala, and about west of it. The Lundi was now
+breast deep too, and twelve yards broad.
+
+On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofw�, we found Mohamad Bogharib digging
+and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves being taken away by the
+crocodiles, as three had been eaten already. A dog bit the leg of one
+of my goats so badly that I was obliged to kill it: they are nasty
+curs here, without courage, and yet they sometimes bite people badly.
+I met some old friends, and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, and from
+this time forward never omitted sharing his victuals with me.
+
+_6th May, 1868._--Manoel Caetano Pereira visited Casembe in 1796, or
+seventy-two years ago: his native name was Moendo-mondo, or the
+world's leg--"world-wide traveller!" He came to Mandapala, for there
+the Casembe of the time resided, and he had a priest or "Kasis�" with
+him, and many people with guns. P�r�mb�, the oldest man now in Lunda,
+had children even then: if P�r�mb� were thirty years of age at that
+period he would now be 102 years old, and he seems quite that, for
+when Dr. Lacerda came he had forty children. He says that Pereira
+fired off all his guns on his arrival, and Casembe asking him what he
+meant by that, he replied, "These guns ask for slaves and ivory," both
+of which were liberally given.
+
+I could not induce P�r�mb� to tell anything of times previous to his
+own. Moendo-mondo, the world's leg (Pereira), told Dr. Lacerda that
+the natives called him "The Terror!"--a bit of vanity, for they have
+no such word or abstract term in their language.
+
+When Major Monteiro was here the town of Casembe was on the same spot
+as now, but the Mosumba, or enclosure of the chief, was about 500
+yards S.E. of the present one. Monteiro went nowhere and did nothing,
+but some of his attendants went over to the Luapula, some six miles
+distant. He complains in his book of having been robbed by the Casembe
+of the time. On asking the present occupant of the office why
+Monteiro's goods were taken from him, he replied, that he was then
+living at another village and did not know of the affair. Mohamad bin
+Saleh was present, and he says that Monteiro's statement is false: no
+goods were forced from him; but it was a year of scarcity, and
+Monteiro had to spend his goods in buying food instead of slaves and
+ivory, and made up the tale of Casembe plundering him to appease his
+creditors.
+
+A number of men were sent with Monteiro as an honorary escort. Kapika,
+an old man now living, was the chief or one of the chiefs of this
+party, and he says that he went to Tette, Senna, and Quillimane with
+Monteiro: this honorary escort seems confirmatory of Mohamad's
+explanation, for had Casembe robbed the Major none would have been
+granted or received.
+
+It is warmer here than we found it in the way; clouds cover the sky
+and prevent radiation. The sorghum is now in full ear. People make
+very neat mats of the leaves of the Shuar� palm. I got lunars this
+time.
+
+_9th May, 1868._--Eight or ten men went past us this morning, sent by
+the chief to catch people whom he intends to send to his paramount
+chief, Matiamvo, as a tribute of slaves. P�r�mb� gives the following
+list of the Casembes:--
+
+    I. KANYIMBE, came from Lunda, attracted by the
+        fish of Mofw� and Moero, and conquered
+        P�r�mb�'s forefather, Kat�r�, who planted the
+        first palm-oil palms here from seeds got in
+        Lunda. It is probable that the intercourse
+        then set afoot led to Kanyimb�'s coming and
+        conquest.
+    II. KINYANTA.
+    III. NGUANDA MILONDA.
+    IV. KANYEMBO.
+    V. LEKWISA.
+    VI. KIR�KA.
+    VII. KAPUMBA.
+    VIII. KINYANTA.
+    IX. LEKWISA, still alive, but a fugitive at Nsama's.
+    X. MUONGA, the present ruler, who drove L�kwisa
+       away.
+
+The Portuguese came to Kir�ka, who is said to have been very liberal
+with presents of ivory, slaves, and cattle. The present man has good
+sense, and is very fair in his judgments, but stingy towards his own
+people as well as strangers: nevertheless I have had good reason to be
+satisfied with his conduct to me. Maiy�, not in the list, and 7, 8, 9,
+10 are the children of Kir�ka. Muonga is said by the others to be a
+slave "born out of the house," that is, his mother was not of the
+royal line; she is an ugly old woman, and greedy. I got rid of her
+begging by giving her the beads she sought, and requesting her to cook
+some food for me; she begged no more, afraid that I would press my
+claim for provisions!
+
+_10th May, 1868._--I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula, he
+replied that he had not seen me nor given me any food; I must come
+to-morrow: but next day he was occupied in killing a man for
+witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he would on the
+12th. He sent 15 fish (perch) from Mofw�, and a large basket of dried
+cassava. I have taken lunars several times, measuring both sides of
+the moon about 190 times, but a silly map-maker may alter the whole
+for the most idiotic of reasons.
+
+_13th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib has been here some seven months,
+and bought three tusks only; the hunting, by Casembe's people, of
+elephants in the Mofw� has been unsuccessful.
+
+We did not get an audience from Casembe; the fault lay with
+Kapika--Monteiro's escort--being afraid to annoy Casembe by putting
+him in mind of it, but on the 15th Casembe sent for me, and told me
+that as the people had all fled from Chikumbi's, he would therefore
+send guides to take us to Kabaia, where there was still a population;
+he wished me to wait a few days till he had looked out good men as
+guides, and ground some flour for us to use in the journey. He
+understood that I wished to go to Bangweolo; and it was all right to
+do what my own chief had sent me for, and then come back to him. It
+was only water--the same as Luapula, Mofw�, and Moero; nothing to be
+seen. His people must not molest me again, but let me go where I
+liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all in His hand.
+
+Casembe also admitted that he had injured "Mpamari," but he would send
+him some slaves and ivory in reparation: he is better than his people,
+who are excessively litigious, and fond of milandos or causes--suits.
+He asked if I had not the leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it
+was bad to sit on the ground; I told him it had so many holes in it
+people laughed at it and made me ashamed, but he did not take the
+hint to give me another. He always talks good sense when he has not
+swilled beer or pombe: all the Arabs are loud in his praises, but they
+have a bad opinion of the Queen Mo�ri or Ngomb� or Kifuta. The
+Garaganza people at Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and
+herself, and when the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza
+or Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the Mofw�: he
+continued his flight as soon as it was dark without saying anything to
+anyone, until he got north to Kabiur�. The Queen and Casembe suspected
+Mpamari of complicity with the Banyamwezi, and believed that
+Fungafunga had communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A
+tumult was made; Mpamari's eldest son was killed; and he was plundered
+of all his copper, ivory, and slaves: the Queen loudly demanded his
+execution, but Casembe restrained his people as well as he was able
+and it is for this injury that he now professes to be sorry.
+
+The Queen only acted according to the principles of her people.
+"Mpamari killed my son, kill his son--himself." It is difficult to get
+at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never tells the whole truth. He
+went to fight Nsama with Muonga, and was wounded in the foot and
+routed, and is now glad to get out of Lunda back to Ujiji. _(16th
+May.)_ Complete twenty sets of lunars.
+
+_11th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe that he could buy
+nothing, and therefore was going away, Casembe replied that he had no
+ivory and he might go: this was sensible; he sent far and near to find
+some, but failed, and now confesses a truth which most chiefs hide
+from unwillingness to appear poor before foreigners.
+
+_18th and 19th May, 1868._--It is hot here though winter; but cold by
+night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. News came that one of Syde
+bin Habib's men had come to Chikumbi on his way to Zanzibar.
+
+_20th May, 1868._--A thunder-shower from the east laid the dust and
+cooled the ground: the last shower of this season, as a similar slight
+shower was the finish up of the last on the 12th of May. _(21st May._)
+This cannot be called a rainy month: April is the last month of the
+wet season, and November the first.
+
+_22nd May, 1868._--Casembe is so slow with his fish, meal, and guides,
+and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I think of going off as
+soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves; he is going to Chikumbi's to buy
+copper, and thence he will proceed to Uvira to exchange that for
+ivory; but this is at present kept as a secret from his slaves. The
+way seems thus to be opening for me to go to the large Lake west of
+Uvira.
+
+I told Casembe that we were going; he said to me that if in coming
+back I had found no travelling party, I must not risk going by Nsama's
+road with so few people, but must go to his brother Moenempanda, and
+he would send men to guide me to him, and thence he would send me
+safely by his path along Lake Moero: this was all very good.
+
+_23rd May, 1868._--The Arabs made a sort of sacrifice of a goat which
+was cooked all at once; they sent a good dish of it to me. They read
+the Koran very industriously, and prayed for success or luck in
+leaving, and seem sincerely religious, according to the light that is
+in them. The use of incense and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish
+times to mind.
+
+A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet an hour south
+of this, to build huts; there they are to take leave of Casembe, for
+the main body goes off to-morrow, after we have seen the new moon.
+They are very particular in selecting lucky days, and anything
+unpleasant that may have happened in one month is supposed to be
+avoided by choosing a different day for beginning an enterprise in the
+next. Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new moon, and several
+fires happened in his camp; he now considers a third day inauspicious.
+
+Casembe's dura or sorghum is ripe to-day: he has eaten mapemba or
+dura, and all may thereafter do the same: this is just about the time
+when it ripens and is reaped at Kolobeng, thus the difference in the
+seasons is not great.
+
+_24th May, 1868._--Detained four days yet. Casembe's chief men refuse
+to escort Mohamad Bogharib; they know him to be in debt, and fear that
+he may be angry, but no dunning was intended. Casembe was making every
+effort to get ivory to liquidate it, and at last got a couple of
+tusks, which he joyfully gave to Mohamad: he has risen much in the
+estimation of us all.
+
+_26th May, 1868._--Casembe's people killed five buffaloes by chasing
+them into the mud and water of Mofw�, so he is seeing to the division
+of the meat, and will take leave to-morrow.
+
+_28th May, 1868._--We went to Casembe; he was as gracious as usual. A
+case of crim. con. was brought forward against an Arab's slave, and an
+attempt was made to arrange the matter privately by offering three
+cloths, beads, and another slave, but the complainant refused
+everything. Casembe dismissed the case by saying to the complainant,
+"You send your women to entrap the strangers in order to get a fine,
+but you will get nothing:" this was highly applauded by the Arabs, and
+the owner of the slave heaped dust on his head, as many had done
+before for favours received. Casembe, still anxious to get ivory for
+Mohamad, proposed another delay of four days to send for it; but all
+are tired, and it is evident that it is not want of will that prevents
+ivory being produced.
+
+His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed inability: he
+is evidently very poor.
+
+_30th May, 1868._--We went to the Kanengwa rivulet at the south end
+of Mofw�, which forms a little lagoon there fifty yards broad and
+thigh deep; but this is not the important feeder of the Lagoon, which
+is from two to three miles broad, and nearly four long: that has many
+large flat sedgy islands in it, and its water is supplied by the
+Mb�r�z� from south-east.
+
+_31st May, 1868._--Old Kapika sold his young and good-looking wife for
+unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of a lady in the chain-gang
+shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to her, and having ascertained
+from her own mouth what was sufficiently apparent, that she was a
+slave now, clapped their hands on their mouths in the way that they
+express wonder, surprise, and horror: the hand is placed so that the
+fingers are on one cheek and the thumb on the other.
+
+The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among the people;
+some brought her food, Kapika's daughters brought her pombe and
+bananas; one man offered to redeem her with two, another with three
+slaves, but Casembe, who is very strict in punishing infidelity, said,
+"No, though ten slaves be offered she must go." He is probably afraid
+of his own beautiful queen should the law be relaxed. Old Kapika came
+and said to her, "You refused me, and I now refuse you." A young wife
+of old P�r�mb� was also sold as a punishment, but redeemed.
+
+There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall men in this
+district. The slave-trader is a means of punishing the wives which
+these old fogies ought never to have had.
+
+Casembe sent me about a hundredweight of the small fish Nsipo, which
+seems to be the whitebait of our country; it is a little bitter when
+cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a tolerable relish: we can buy
+flour with these at Chikumbi's.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[60] Chikichi nuts have been an article of trade and export for some
+time from Zanzibar. The oil-palm grows wild in Pemba.
+
+[61] A chief named Moen� Ungu, who admires the Arabs, sent his
+children to Zanzibar to be instructed to read and write.
+
+[62] This bird is often brought to Zanzibar by the Ivory Caravans.
+
+[63] The Doctor's birthday.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June,
+    1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo.
+    Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bembo changed
+    to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's
+    stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th
+    July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake.
+    Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifung� Island. Immense
+    size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of
+    canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets
+    Banyamweze. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed
+    state of country.
+
+
+_1st June, 1868._--Mohamad proposes to go to Katanga to buy copper,
+and invites me to go too. I wish to see the Lufra Kiver, but I must
+see Bemba or Bangweolo. Grant guidance from above!
+
+_2nd June, 1868._--In passing a field of cassava I picked the pods of
+a plant called Malumbi, which climbs up the cassava bushes; at the
+root it has a number of tubers with eyes, exactly like the potato. One
+plant had sixteen of these tubers, each about 2 inches long and 1-1/2
+inch in diameter: another tuber was 5 inches long and 2 in diameter,
+it would be difficult for anyone to distinguish them from English
+potatoes. When boiled they are a little waxy, and, compared with our
+potato, hard. There are colours inside, the outer part reddish, the
+inner whiter. At first none of the party knew them, but afterwards
+they were recognised as cultivated at Zanzibar by the name "Men," and
+very good when mashed with fish: if in Zanzibar, they are probably
+known in other tropical islands,
+
+_4th June, 1868._--From what I see of slaving, even in its best
+phases, I would not be a slave-dealer for the world.
+
+_5th June, 1868._--The Queen Mo�ri passed us this morning, going to
+build a hut at her plantation; she has a pleasant European
+countenance, clean light-brown skin, and a merry laugh, and would be
+admired anywhere. I stood among the cassava to see her pass; she
+twirled her umbrella as she came near, borne by twelve men, and seemed
+to take up the laugh which made her and her maids bolt at my
+reception, showing that she laughs not with her mouth only, but with
+her eyes and cheeks: she said, "Yambo" (how are you)? To which I
+replied, "Tambo sana" (very well). One of her attendants said, "Give
+her something of what you have at hand, or in the pockets." I said, "I
+have nothing here," and asked her if she would come back near my hut.
+She replied that she would, and I duly sent for two strings of red
+beads, which I presented. Being lower than she, I could see that she
+had a hole through the cartilage, near the point of her slightly
+aquiline nose; and a space was filed between the two front teeth, so
+as to leave a triangular hole.
+
+[Illustration: Filed Teeth of Queen Mo�ri.]
+
+After delay had grown vexatious, we march three hours on the 9th, and
+reach the Katofia River, covered with aquatic trees and running into
+the Mb�r�z�: five yards wide and knee deep.
+
+_10th June, 1868._--Detained again, for business is not finished with
+the people of Casembe. The people cannot esteem the slave-trader, who
+is used as a means of punishing those who have family differences, as
+those of a wife with her husband, or a servant with his master. The
+slaves are said to be generally criminals, and are sold in revenge or
+as punishment. Kapika's wife had an ornament of the end of a shell
+called the cone; it was borrowed and she came away with it in her
+hair: the owner, without making any effort to recover it, seized one
+of Kapika's daughters as a pledge that Kapika would exert himself to
+get it back!
+
+[At last the tedious delay came to an end and we must now follow the
+Doctor on his way south to discover Lake Bemba.]
+
+_11th June, 1868._--Crossed the Mb�r�z�, ten yards broad and thigh
+deep, ascending a range of low hills of hardened sandstone, covered,
+as the country generally is, with forest. Our course S.E. and S.S.E.
+Then descended into a densely-wooded valley, having a rivulet four
+yards wide and knee deep. Buffaloes and elephants very numerous.
+
+_12th June, 1868._--We crossed the Mb�r�z� again twice; then a very
+deep narrow rivulet, and stopped at another in a mass of trees, where
+we spend the night, and killing an ox remained next day to eat it.
+When at Kanengwa a small party of men came past, shouting as if they
+had done something of importance: on going to them, I found that two
+of them carried a lion slung to a pole. It was a small maneless
+variety, called "the lion of _Nyassi_," or long grass. It had killed a
+man and they killed it. They had its mouth carefully strapped, and the
+paws tied across its chest, and were taking it to Casembe. _Nyassi_
+means long grass, such as towers overhead, and is as thick in the
+stalk as a goose-quill; and is erroneously applied to Nyassa. Other
+lions--Thambw�, Karamo, Simba, are said to stand 5 feet high, and some
+higher: this seemed about 3 feet high, but it was too dark to measure
+it.
+
+_13th June, 1868._--The Arabs distinguish the Suaheli, or Arabs of
+mixed African blood, by the absence of beard and whiskers: these are
+usually small and stunted in the Suaheli.
+
+Birds, as the Drongo shrike, and a bird very like the grey linnet,
+with a thick reddish bill, assemble in very large flocks now that it
+is winter, and continue thus till November, or period of the rains.
+
+A very minute bee goes into the common small holes in wormeaten wood
+to make a comb and lay its eggs, with a supply of honey. There are
+seven or eight honey-bees of small size in this country.
+
+A sphex may be seen to make holes in the ground, placing stupified
+insects in them with her eggs; another species watches when she goes
+off to get more insects, and every now and then goes in too to lay her
+eggs, I suppose without any labour: there does not appear to be any
+enmity between them. We remained a day to buy food for the party, and
+eat our ox.
+
+_14th June, 1868._--March over well-wooded highlands with dolomite
+rocks cropping out and trees all covered with lichens, the watershed
+then changed to the south.
+
+_15th June, 1868._--Yery cold in mornings now (43�). Found
+Moenempanda, Casembe's brother, on the Luluputa, a stream twenty yards
+wide and flowing west. The Moenempanda visited by the Portuguese was
+grandfather to this one, and not at the same spot; it is useless to
+put down the names of chiefs as indicating geographical positions, for
+the name is often continued, but at a spot far distant from the
+dwelling of the original possessor. A slave tried to break out of his
+slave-stick, and actually broke half an inch of tough iron with his
+fingers; the end stuck in the wood, or he would have freed himself.
+
+The chief gave me a public reception, which was like that of Casembe,
+but better managed. He is young, and very handsome but for a defect in
+his eyes, which makes him keep them half shut or squinting. He walked
+off in the jaunty way all chiefs do in this country, to show the
+weight of rings and beads on the legs, and many imitate this walk who
+have none, exactly as our fathers imitated the big cravat of George
+IV., who thereby hid defects in his neck: thousands carried their
+cravats over the chin who had no defects to hide. Moenempanda carried
+his back stiffly, and no wonder, he had about ten yards of a train
+carried behind it. About 600 people were present. They kept rank, but
+not step; were well armed; marimbas and square drums formed the bands,
+and one musician added his voice: "I have been to Syde" (the Sultan);
+"I have been to Meereput" (King of Portugal); "I have been to the
+sea." At a private reception, where he was divested of his train, and
+had only one umbrella instead of three, I gave him a cloth. The Arabs
+thought highly of him; but his graciousness had been expended on them
+in getting into debt; he now showed no inclination to get out of it,
+but offered about a twentieth part of the value of the goods in
+liquidation. He sent me two pots of beer, which I care not to drink
+except when very thirsty on a march, and promised a man to guide me to
+Chikumbi, and then refused. Casembe rose in the esteem of all as
+Moenempanda sank, and his people were made to understand how shabbily
+he had behaved.
+
+The Lulaputa is said to flow into the Lu�na, and that into the Luongo:
+there must be two Lu�nas.
+
+_22nd June, 1868._--March across a grassy plain southerly to the
+Luongo, a deep river embowered in a dense forest of trees, all covered
+with lichens--some flat, others long and thready, like old men's
+beards, and waving in the wind, just as they do on the mangrove-swamp
+trees on the coast. The Luongo here is fifty yards broad and three
+fathoms deep; near its junction with the Luapula it is 100 yards; it
+rises here to eight fathoms' depth. A bridge of forty yards led us
+over to an island, and a branch of the river was ten yards beyond: the
+bridge had been broken, some thought on purpose, but it was soon
+mended with trees eighteen to twenty yards long. We went a little way
+beyond, and then halted for a day at a rivulet flowing into the
+Luongo, 200 yards off.
+
+_23rd June, 1868._--We waited for copper here, which was at first
+refused as payment of debt. I saw now that the Luongo had steep clay
+banks fifteen feet down, and many meadows, which must be swimming
+during the rains. The Lu�na is said to rise east of this.
+
+[In a private letter Livingstone shows that he had seldom been more
+affected by the sufferings of slaves than at this time, and it would
+perhaps be difficult to imagine any scene more calculated to excite
+misery and distress of mind.
+
+The following incident deals with the firm belief in a future state,
+which enters so largely into the minds of all Africans, and which for
+very lack of guidance assumes all the distorted growths of
+superstition.
+
+He must be of a thankless spirit who does not long to substitute the
+great vision of future peace afforded by Christianity, in lieu of the
+ghastly satisfaction which cheered these men, when he sees by the
+light of this story the capacity that exists for realising a life
+beyond the grave.]
+
+_24th June, 1868._--Six men slaves were singing as if they did not
+feel the weight and degradation of the slave-sticks. I asked the cause
+of their mirth, and was told that they rejoiced at the idea "of coming
+back after death and haunting and killing those who had sold them."
+Some of the words I had to inquire about; for instance, the meaning of
+the words "to haunt and kill by spirit power;" then it was, "Oh, you
+sent me off to Manga (sea-coast), but the yoke is off when I die, and
+back I shall come to haunt and to kill you." Then all joined in the
+chorus, which was the name of each vendor. It told not of fun, but of
+the bitterness and tears of such as were oppressed, and on the side
+of the oppressors there was a power: there be higher than they!
+
+P�r�mb� was one of the culprits thus menaced. The slave-owner asked
+Kapika's wife if she would return to kill Kapika. The others answered
+to the names of the different men with laughter. Her heart was
+evidently sore: for a lady to come so low down is to her grievous. She
+has lost her jaunty air, and is, with her head shaved, ugly; but she
+never forgets to address her captors with dignity, and they seem to
+fear her.
+
+_25th June, 1868._--We went over flat forest with patches of brown
+haematite cropping out; this is the usual iron ore, but I saw in a
+village pieces of specular iron-ore which had been brought for
+smelting. The Luongo flowed away somewhat to our right or west, and
+the villagers had selected their site where only well-water could be
+found: we went ten minutes towards the Luongo and got abundance.
+
+[Illustration: A Forest Grave.]
+
+The gardens had high hedges round to keep off wild beasts. We came to
+a grave in the forest; it was a little rounded mound as if the
+occupant sat in it in the usual native way: it was strewed over with
+flour, and a number of the large blue beads put on it: a little path
+showed that it had visitors. This is the sort of grave I should
+prefer: to lie in the still, still forest, and no hand ever disturb my
+bones. The graves at home always seemed to me to be miserable,
+especially those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow room; but I
+have nothing to do but wait till He who is over all decides where I
+have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga brae, "and
+beeks fornent the sun."[64]
+
+Came to the Chando River, which is the boundary between Casembe and
+Chikumbi; but Casembe is over all.
+
+_27th June, 1868._--We crossed a flooded marsh with the water very
+cold, and then the Chando itself twelve feet broad and knee deep, then
+on to another strong brook Ns�nga.
+
+_28th June, 1868._--After service we went on up hills to a stockade of
+Banyamwezi, on the Kalomina River, and here we built our sheds; the
+spot is called Kizinga, and is on the top of a sandstone range covered
+as usual with forest. The Banyamwezi beat off the Mazitu with their
+guns, while all the country people fled. The Banyamwezi are decidedly
+uglier than the Balonda and Baitawa: they eat no fish, though they
+come from the east side of Tanganyika, where fish are abundant and
+cheap; but though uglier, they have more of the sense of honour with
+traders than the aborigines.
+
+_29th June, 1868._--Observed the "smokes" to-day, the first of the
+season:[65] they obscured the whole country.
+
+_1st July, 1868._--I went over to Chikumbi, the paramount chief of
+this district, and gave him a cloth, begging a man to guide me to
+Bangweolo. He said that I was welcome to his country; all were so: I
+had better wait two days till he had selected a _good_ man as a guide,
+and he would send some food for me to eat in the journey--he would not
+say ten days, but only two, and his man would take me to the smaller
+part of the Lake, and leave others to forward me to the greater or
+Bangweolo. The smaller part is named Bemba, but that name is
+confusing, because Bemba is the name of the country in which a portion
+of the Lake lies. When asking for Lake Bemba, Kasongo's son said to
+me, "Bemba is not a lake, but a country:" it is therefore better to
+use the name BANGWEOLO, which is applied to the great mass of the
+water, though I fear that our English folks will bogle at it, or call
+it Bungyhollow! Some Arabs say Bambeolo as easier of pronunciation,
+but Bangweolo is the correct word. Chikumbi's stockade is 1-1/2 hour
+S.E. of our camp at Kizinga.
+
+_2nd July, 1868._--Writing to the Consul at Zanzibar to send supplies
+of cloth to Ujiji--120 pieces, 40 Kiniki; 80 merikano 34 inches broad,
+or samsam. Fine red beads--Talaka, 12 frasilas. I ask for soap,
+coffee, sugar, candles, sardines, French preserved meats, a cheese in
+tin, Nautical Almanac for 1869 and 1870, shoes (two or four pairs),
+ruled paper, pencils, sealing-wax, ink, powder, flannel-serge, 12
+frasila beads, 6 of Talaka; added 3 F. pale red, 3 W. white.
+
+_3rd July, 1868._--The summary of the sources which I have resolved to
+report as flowing into the central line of drainage formed by the
+Chambez�, Luapula, and Lualaba are thirteen in all, and each is larger
+than the Isis at Oxford, or Avon at Hamilton. Five flow into the
+eastern line of drainage going through Tanganyika, and five more into
+the western line of drainage or Lufira, twenty-three or more in all.
+The Lualaba and the Lufira unite in the Lake of the chief Kinkonza.
+
+_5th July, 1868._--I borrowed some paper from Mohamad Bogharib to
+write home by some Arabs going to the coast. I will announce my
+discovery to Lord Clarendon; but I reserve the parts of the Lualaba
+and Tanganyika for future confirmation. I have no doubts on the
+subject, for I receive the reports of natives of intelligence at first
+hand, and they have no motive for deceiving me. The best maps are
+formed from the same sort of reports at third or fourth hand. Cold
+N.E. winds prevail at present.
+
+_6th July, 1868._--Divided our salt that each may buy provisions for
+himself: it is here of more value than beads. Chikumbi sent fine
+flour, a load for two stout men carried in a large basket slung to a
+pole, and a fine fat sheep, carried too because it was too fat to walk
+the distance from his stockade.
+
+_7th, 8th, and 9th July, 1868._--After delaying several days to send
+our guide, Chikumbi said that he feared the country people would say
+that the Ingleza brought the Mazitu to them, and so blame will be
+given to him. I set this down as "words of pombe," beery babble; but
+after returning from Bangweolo, I saw that he must have been preparing
+to attack a stockade of Banyamwezi in our path, and had he given us a
+guide, that man would have been in danger in coming back: he therefore
+preferred the safety of his man to keeping his promise to me. I got a
+Banyamwezi guide, and left on the _10th July, 1868_, going over gently
+rising sandstone hills, covered with forest and seeing many deserted
+villages, the effects of the Mazitu foray: we saw also the Mazitu
+sleeping-places and paths. They neglect the common paths of the
+country as going from one village to another, and take straight
+courses in the direction they wish to go, treading down the grass so
+as to make a well-marked route, The Banyamwezi expelled them, cutting
+off so many of them with their guns and arrows that the marauders
+retired. The effect of this success on the minds of the Imboshwa, or
+Imbozhwas, as Chikumbi's people are called, was not gratitude, but
+envy at the new power sprung up among them of those who came
+originally as traders in copper.
+
+Kombokombo's stockade, the village to which we went this day, was the
+first object of assault, and when we returned, he told us that
+Chikumbi had assaulted him on three sides, but was repulsed. The
+Banyamwezi were, moreover, much too sharp as traders for the
+Imboshwa, cheating them unmercifully, and lying like Greeks.
+Kombokombo's stockade was on the Chib�ras� River, which flows briskly,
+eight yards broad and deep, through a mile of sponge. We came in the
+midst of a general jollification, and were most bountifully supplied
+with pombe and food. The Banyamwezi acknowledge allegiance to the
+Sultan of Zanzibar, and all connected with him are respected.
+Kombokombo pressed food and drink on me, and when I told him that I
+had nothing to return for it, he said that he expected nothing: he was
+a child of the Sultan, and ought to furnish all I needed.
+
+_11th July, 1868._--On leaving the Chib�ras� we passed up over a long
+line of hills with many villages and gardens, but mostly deserted
+during the Mazitu raid. The people fled into the forests on the hills,
+and were an easy prey to the marauders, who seem to have been
+unmerciful. When we descended into the valley beyond we came to a
+strong stockade, which had successfully resisted the onset of the
+Mazitu; we then entered on flat forest, with here and there sponges
+containing plenty of water; plains succeeded the hills, and continued
+all the way to Bangweolo. We made a fence in the forest; and next day
+_(12th July)_ reached the Rofuba, 50 yards broad and 4-1/2 feet deep,
+full of aquatic plants, and flowing south-west into the Luongo: it had
+about a mile and a half of sponge on each side of it. We encamped a
+little south of the river.
+
+_13th July, 1868._--On resting at a deserted spot, the men of a
+village in the vicinity came to us excited and apparently drunk, and
+began to work themselves up still more by running about, poising their
+spears at us, taking aim with their bows and arrows, and making as if
+about to strike with their axes: they thought that we were marauders,
+and some plants of ground-nuts strewn about gave colour to the idea.
+There is usually one good soul in such rabbles. In this case a man
+came to me, and, addressing his fellows, said, "This is only your
+pombe. White man, do not stand among them, but go away," and then he
+placed himself between me and a portion of the assailants, about
+thirty of whom were making their warlike antics. While walking quietly
+away with my good friend they ran in front and behind bushes and
+trees, took aim with bow and arrow, but none shot: the younger men ran
+away with our three goats. When we had gone a quarter of a mile my
+friend told me to wait and he would bring the goats, which he did: I
+could not feel the inebriates to be enemies; but in that state they
+are the worst one can encounter, for they have no fear as they have
+when sober. One snatched away a fowl from our guide, that too was
+restored by our friend. I did not load my gun; for any accidental
+discharge would have inflamed them to rashness. We got away without
+shedding blood, and were thankful. The Mazitu raid has produced
+lawlessness in the country: every one was taken as an enemy.
+
+_14th July, 1868._--We remained a day at the stockade of Moi�gg�a. A
+Banyamwezi or Garaganza man is settled here in Kabaia's district, and
+on the strong rivulet called Mato. We felt secure only among the
+strangers, and they were friendly with us.
+
+_15th July, 1868._--At the village on the south bank of the Mpanda we
+were taken by the headman as Mazitu. He was evidently intoxicated, and
+began to shut his gates with frantic gesticulations. I offered to go
+away; but others of his people, equally intoxicated, insisted on my
+remaining. I sat down a little, but seeing that the chief was still
+alarmed, I said to his people, "The chief objects and I can't stay:"
+they saw the reasonableness of this, but I could not get my cowardly
+attendants to come on, though one said to me, "Come, I shall show you
+the way: we must speak nice to them." This the wise boys think the
+perfection of virtue, speaking nice means adopting a childish treble
+tone of voice and words exactly similar to those of the little Scotch
+girl who, passing through a meadow, was approached by a cow, probably
+from curiosity. To appease this enemy, she said, "Oh, coo, coo, if you
+no hurt me, I no hurt you." I told them to come on and leave them
+quietly, but they remained babbling with them. The guide said that
+there was no water in front: this I have been told too often ever to
+believe, so I went on through the forest, and in an hour and a half
+came to a sponge where, being joined by my attendants, we passed the
+night.
+
+_16th July, 1868._--Crossing this sponge, and passing through flat
+forest, we came to another named M�shw�, when there, as a contrast,
+the young men volunteered to carry me across; but I had got off my
+shoes, and was in the water, and they came along with me, showing the
+shallower parts. We finished the day's march by crossing the Molongosi
+spongy ooze, with 150 paces of deep water, flowing N.E. The water in
+these oozes or sponges felt very cold, though only 60� in the
+mornings, and 65� at midday. The Molongosi people invited us into the
+village; but the forest, unless when infested with leopards and lions,
+is always preferable, for one is free from vermin, and free from
+curiosity gazers, who in the village think they have a right to stare,
+but in the forest feel that they are not on an equality with
+strangers.
+
+[It was on the 18th of July, 1868, we see that Dr. Livingstone
+discovered one of the largest of the Central African Lakes. It is
+extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm,
+as--almost parenthetically--he records the fact.]
+
+_17th and 18th July, 1868._--Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near
+the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th I walked a little way out
+and saw the shores of the Lake for the first time, thankful that I had
+come safely hither.
+
+I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and gave him a
+fathom of calico as all I could spare: I told him that as soon as I
+had seen and measured the Lake I would return north; he replied, that
+seeing our goods were done he could say nothing, he would give me
+guides, and what else he should do was known to himself. He gave a
+public reception at once. I asked if he had ever seen anyone like me,
+and he said, "Never." A Babisa traveller asked me why I had come so
+far; I said I wished to make the country and people better known to
+the rest of the world, that we were all children of one Father, and I
+was anxious that we should know each other better, and that friendly
+visits should be made in safety. I told him what the Queen had done to
+encourage the growth of cotton on the Zambezi, and how we had been
+thwarted by slave-traders and their abettors: they were pleased with
+this. When asked I showed them my note-book, watch, compass,
+burning-glass, and was loudly drummed home.
+
+I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its contents. I
+shall require a few days more at Bangweolo than I at first intended.
+The moon being in its last stage of waning I cannot observe till it is
+of some size.
+
+_19th July, 1868._--Went down to Masantu's village, which is on the
+shore of the Lake, and by a spring called Chipoka, which comes out of
+a mass of disintegrated granite. It is seldom that we see a spring
+welling out beneath a rock: they are covered by oozing sponges, if
+indeed they exist. Here we had as a spectator a man walking on stilts
+tied to his ankles and knees. There are a great many Babisa among the
+people. The women have their hair ornamented with strings of cowries,
+and well oiled with the oil and fat from the seeds of the Mosikisi
+trees. I sent the chief a fathom of calico, and got an audience at
+once. Masantu is an oldish man; had never prayed to the Great Father
+of all, though he said the footsteps of "Mungu," or Mulungu, could be
+seen on a part of Lifung� Island: a large footstep may also be seen on
+the rock at the Chambez�, about fifteen inches long. He informed us
+that the Lake is much the largest at the part called Bangweolo.
+
+The country around the Lake is all flat, and very much denuded of
+trees, except the Motsikiri or Mosikisi, which has fine dark, dense
+foliage, and is spared for its shade and the fatty oil yielded by its
+seeds: we saw the people boiling large pots full of the dark brown
+fat, which they use to lubricate their hair. The islands, four in
+number, are all flat, but well peopled. The men have many canoes, and
+are all expert fishermen; they are called Mboghwa, but are marked on
+the forehead and chin as Babisa, and file the teeth to points. They
+have many children, as fishermen usually have.
+
+_21st July, 1868._--Canoe-men are usually extortionate, because one
+cannot do without them. Mapuni claims authority over them, and sent to
+demand another fathom that he may give orders to them to go with us: I
+gave a hoe and a string of beads instead, but he insisted on the
+cloth, and kept the hoe too, as I could not afford the time to haggle.
+
+    Chipoka spring water at 9 A.M. 75� }
+    Lake water at same time  71�       } air 72�.
+
+    Chipoka spring at 4 P.M. 74� 5'    }
+    Lake water at same time 75�        } air 71� 5'; wet bulb 70�.
+
+No hot fountains or earthquakes are known in this region. The bottom
+of the Lake consists of fine white sand, and a broad belt of strong
+rushes, say 100 yards wide, shows shallow water. In the afternoons
+quite a crowd of canoes anchor at its outer edge to angle; the hooks
+are like ours, but without barbs. The fish are perch chiefly, but
+others similar to those that appear in the other Lakes are found, and
+two which attain the large size of 4 feet by 1-1/2 in. thickness: one
+is called Sampa.
+
+_22nd July, 1868._--A very high wind came with the new moon, and
+prevented our going, and also the fishermen from following their
+calling. Mapuni thought that we meant to make, an escape from him to
+the Babisa on the south, because we were taking our goats, I therefore
+left them and two attendants at Masantu's village to assure him.
+
+_23rd July, 1868._--Wind still too strong to go. Took lunars.
+
+_24th July, 1868._--Wind still strong.
+
+_25th July, 1868._--Strong S.E. wind still blowing, but having paid
+the canoe-men amply for four days with beads, and given Masantu a hoe
+and beads too, we embarked at 11.40 A.M. in a fine canoe, 45 feet
+long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad. The waves were high, but the
+canoe was very dry and five stout men propelled her quickly towards an
+opening in Lifung� Island, on our S.E. Here we stopped to wood, and I
+went away to look at the island, which had the marks of hippopotami
+and a species of jackal on it: it had hard wiry grass, some flowers,
+and a species of Gapparidaceous tree. The trees showed well the
+direction of the prevailing wind to be south-east, for the branches on
+that side were stunted or killed, while those on the north-west ran
+out straight, and made the trees appear, as sailors say, lopsided: the
+trunks too were bent that way.
+
+The canoe-men now said that they would start, then that they would
+sleep here, because we could not reach the Island Mpabala before dark,
+and would not get a hut. I said that it would be sleeping out of doors
+only in either case, so they went. We could see the island called Kisi
+on our east, apparently a double island, about 15 miles off, and the
+tops of the trees barely visible on Mpabala on our south-east. It was
+all sea horizon on our south and north, between Lifung� and Mpabala,
+and between Lifung� and Kisi. We could not go to Kisi, because, as the
+canoe-men told us, they had stolen their canoe thence. Though we
+decided to go, we remained awhile to let the sea go down. A
+hammerhead's nest on one of the trees was fully four feet high. Coarse
+rushes show the shoals near the islands. Only one shell was seen on
+the shores. The canoe ships much less water in this surf than our boat
+did in that of Nyassa. The water is of a deep sea-green colour,
+probably from the reflection of the fine white sand of the bottom; we
+saw no part having the deep dark blue of Nyassa, and conjecture that
+the depth is not great; but I had to leave our line when Amoda
+absconded. On Kisi we observed a dark square mass, which at first I
+took to be a low hill: it turned out to be a mass of trees (probably
+the place of sepulture, for the graveyards are always untouched), and
+shows what a dense forest this land would become were it not for the
+influence of men.
+
+We reached Mpabala after dark. It was bitterly cold, from the amount
+of moisture in the air. I asked a man who came to see what the arrival
+was, for a hut; he said, "Do strangers require huts, or ask for them
+at night?" he then led us to the public place of meeting, called
+Nsaka, which is a large shed, with planks around and open spaces
+between, instead of walls; here we cooked a little porridge, and ate
+it, then I lay down on one side, with the canoe-men and my attendants
+at the fire in the middle, and was soon asleep, and dreamed that I had
+apartments in Mivart's Hotel. This made me feel much amused next day,
+for I never dream unless I am ill, or going to be ill; and of all
+places in the world, I never thought of Mivart's Hotel in my waking
+moments; a freak of the fancy surely, for I was not at all
+discontented with my fare, or apartment, I was only afraid of getting
+a stock of vermin from my associates.
+
+_26th July, 1868._--I have to stand the stare of a crowd of people at
+every new place for hours: all usually talk as quickly as their glib
+tongues can; these certainly do not belong to the tribes who are
+supposed to eke out their language by signs! A few indulge their
+curiosity in sight-seeing, but go on steadily weaving nets, or by
+beating bark-cloth, or in spinning cotton, others smoke their big
+tobacco pipes, or nurse a baby, or enjoy the heat of the bright
+morning sun. I walked across the north end of the island, and found it
+to be about one mile broad, I also took bearings of Chirubi Island
+from the eastern point of Mpabala, and found from the south-east point
+of Chirubi that there are 183� of sea horizon from it to the point of
+departure of the Luapula. Chirubi is the largest of the islands, and
+contains a large population, possessing many sheep and goats. At the
+highest part of Mpabala we could see the tops of the trees on Kasango,
+a small uninhabited islet, about thirty miles distant: the tops of the
+trees were evidently lifted up by the mirage, for near the shore and
+at other parts they were invisible, even with a good glass. This
+uninhabited islet would have been our second stage had we been allowed
+to cross the Lake, as it is of the people themselves; it is as far
+beyond it to the mainland, called Manda, as from Masantu's to Mpabala.
+
+_27th July, 1868._--Took lunars and stars for latitude.
+
+The canoe-men now got into a flurry, because they were told here that
+the Kisi men had got an inkling that their canoe was here, and were
+coming to take it; they said to me that they would come back for me,
+but I could not trust thieves to be so honest. I thought of seizing
+their paddles, and appealing to the headmen of the island; but aware
+from past experience how easy it is for acknowledged thieves like them
+to get up a tale to secure the cheap sympathy of the soft-headed, or
+tender-hearted, I resolved to bear with meekness, though groaning
+inwardly, the loss of two of the four days for which I had paid them.
+I had only my coverlet to hire another canoe, and it was now very
+cold; the few beads left would all be required to buy food in the way
+back, I might have got food by shooting buffaloes, but that on foot
+and through grass, with stalks as thick as a goose quill, is
+dreadfully hard work; I had thus to return to Masantu's, and trust to
+the distances as deduced from the time taken by the natives in their
+canoes for the size of the Lake.
+
+We had come to Mpabala at the rate of six knots an hour, and returned
+in the same time with six stout paddlers. The latitude was 12' in a
+south-east course, which may give 24' as the actual distance. To the
+sleeping-place, the Islet Kasango, there was at least 28' more, and
+from thence to the mainland "Manda," other 28'. This 24 + 28 + 28 =
+80' as the breadth from Masantu village, looking south-east. It lies
+in 11� 0' S. If we add on the half distance to this we have 11� 40' as
+the latitude of Manda. The mainland to the south of Mpabala is called
+Kabend�. The land's end running south of Masantu's village is the
+entrance to the Luapula: the clearest eye cannot see across it there.
+I saw clouds as if of grass burning, but they were probably "Kungu,"
+an edible insect, whose masses have exactly the same appearance as
+they float above and on the water. From the time the canoes take to go
+to Kabend� I believe the southern shore to be a little into 12� of
+south latitude: the length, as inferred from canoes taking ten days to
+go from Mpabala to the Chambez�, I take to be 150 miles, probably
+more. No one gave a shorter time than that. The Luapula is an arm of
+the Lake for some twenty miles, and beyond that is never narrower than
+from 180 to 200 yards, generally much broader, and may be compared
+with the Thames at London Bridge: I think that I am considerably
+within the mark in setting down Bangweolo as 150 miles long by 80
+broad.
+
+When told that it contained four large islands, I imagined that these
+would considerably diminish the watery acreage of the whole, as is
+said to be the case with five islands in Ukerew�; but even the largest
+island, Chirubi, does not in the least dwarf the enormous mass of the
+water of Bangweolo. A range of mountains, named Lokinga, extends from
+the south-east to the south-west: some small burns come down from
+them, but no river; this range joins the Kon�, or Mokon� range, west
+of Katanga, from which on one side rises the Lufira, and on the other
+the Liambai, or Zambesi. The river of Manda, called Matanga, is only a
+departing and re-entering branch of the Lake, also the Luma and Lo�la
+rivers--some thirty yards broad--have each to be examined as springs
+on the south of the Lake.
+
+_July 29th, 1868._--Not a single case of Derbyshire neck, or of
+Elephantiasis, was observed anywhere near the Lake, consequently the
+report we had of its extreme unhealthiness was erroneous: no muddy
+banks did we see, but in the way to it we had to cross so many
+sponges, or oozes, that the word _matop�_, mud, was quite applicable;
+and I suspect, if we had come earlier, that we should have experienced
+great difficulty in getting to the Lake at all.
+
+_30th July, 1868._--We commenced our march back, being eager to get to
+Chikumbi's in case Mohamad should go thence to Katanga. We touched at
+Mapuni's, and then went on to the Molongosi. Clouds now began to cover
+the sky to the Mpanda, which has fifteen yards of flood, though the
+stream itself is only five yards wide, then on to the Mato and
+Moi�gg�'s stockade, where we heard of Chikumbi's attack on
+Kombokombo's. Moi�gg� had taken the hint, and was finishing a second
+line of defence around his village: we reached him on the 1st August,
+1868, and stopped for Sunday the 2nd: on the 3rd back to the Rofubu,
+where I was fortunate enough to hire a canoe to take me over.
+
+In examining a tsetse fly very carefully I see that it has a
+receptacle at the root of the piercer, which is of a black or dark-red
+colour; and when it is squeezed, a clear fluid is pressed out at its
+point: the other two parts of the proboscis are its shield, and have
+no bulb at the base. The bulb was pronounced at the Royal Society to
+be only muscle, but it is curious that muscle should be furnished
+where none is needed, and withheld in the movable parts of the shield
+where it is decidedly needed.
+
+_5th August, 1868._--Reach Kombokombo, who is very liberal, and
+pressed us to stay a day with him as well as with others; we complied,
+and found that Mohamad had gone nowhere.
+
+_7th August, 1868._--We found a party starting from Kizinga for the
+coast, having our letters with them; it will take five months to reach
+the sea. The disturbed state of the country prevented parties of
+traders proceeding in various directions, and one that set off on the
+same day with us was obliged to return. Mohamad has resolved to go to
+Manyuema as soon as parties of his men now out return: this is all in
+my favour; it is in the way I want to go to see the Lualaba and Lufira
+to Chowamb�. The way seems opening out before me, and I am thankful. I
+resolved to go north by way of Casembe, and guides were ready to
+start, so was I; but rumours of war where we were going induced me to
+halt to find out the truth: the guides (Banyamwezi) were going to
+divine, by means of a cock, to see if it would be lucky to go with me
+at present. The rumours of danger became so circumstantial that our
+fence was needed: a well was dug inside, and the Banyamwezi were
+employed to smelt copper as for the market of Manyuema, and balls for
+war. Syde bin Omar soon came over the Luapula from Iramba, and the
+state of confusion induced the traders to agree to unite their forces
+and make a safe retreat out of the country. They objected very
+strongly to my going away down the right bank of the Luapula with my
+small party, though it was in sight, so I resolved to remain till all
+went.
+
+_13th August, 1868._--The Banyamwezi use a hammer shaped like a cone,
+without a handle. They have both kinds of bellows, one of goatskin the
+other of wood, with a skin over the mouth of a drum, and a handle tied
+to the middle of it; with these they smelt pieces of the large bars of
+copper into a pot, filled nearly full of wood ashes. The fire is
+surrounded by masses of anthills, and in these there are hollows made
+to receive the melted metal: the metal is poured while the pot is held
+with the hands, protected by wet rags.
+
+_15th August, 1868._--Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from Muaboso on
+Chambez� in six days, crossing in that space twenty-two burns or
+oozes, from knee to waist deep.
+
+Very high and cold winds prevail at present. It was proposed to punish
+Chikumbi when Syde bin Omar came, as he is in debt and refuses
+payment; but I go off to Casembe.
+
+I learn that there is another hot fountain in the Baloba country,
+called Fungw�; this, with Kapira and Vana, makes three hot fountains
+in this region.
+
+Some people were killed in my path to Casembe, so this was an
+additional argument against my going that way.
+
+Some Banyamwezi report a tribe--the Bonyolo--that extract the upper
+front teeth, like Batoka; they are near Loanda, and Lake Chipokola is
+there, probably the same as Kinkonza. Feeling my way. All the trees
+are now pushing out fresh young leaves of different colours: winds
+S.E. Clouds of upper stratum N.W.
+
+_29th August, 1868._--Kaskas began to-day hot and sultry. This will
+continue till rains fall. Rumours of wars perpetual and near; and one
+circumstantial account of an attack made by the Baus�. That again
+contradicted. _(31st August, 1868.)_ Rain began here this evening,
+quite remarkable and exceptional, as it precedes the rains generally
+off the watershed by two months at least: it was a thunder shower,
+and it and another on the evening of the second were quite partial.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[As we shall see, he takes advantage of his late experience to work
+out an elaborate treatise on the climate of this region, which is
+exceedingly important, bearing, as it does, upon the question of the
+periodical floods on the rivers which drain the enormous cistern-lakes
+of Central Africa.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The notion of a rainy zone, in which the clouds deposit their
+treasures in perpetual showers, has received no confirmation from my
+observations. In 1866-7, the rainfall was 42 inches. In 1867-8, it
+amounted to 53 inches: this is nearly the same as falls in the same
+latitudes on the West Coast. In both years the rains ceased entirely
+in May, and with the exception of two partial thunder showers on the
+middle of the watershed, no rain fell till the middle and end of
+October, and then, even in November, it was partial, and limited to
+small patches of country; but scarcely a day passed between October
+and May without a good deal of thunder. When the thunder began to roll
+or rumble, that was taken by the natives as an indication of the near
+cessation of the rains. The middle of the watershed is the most humid
+part: one sees the great humidity of its climate at once in the trees,
+old and young, being thickly covered with lichens; some flat, on the
+trunks and branches; others long and thready, like the beards of old
+men waving in the wind. Large orchids on the trees in company with the
+profusion of lichens are seen nowhere else, except in the mangrove
+swamps of the sea-coast.
+
+I cannot account for the great humidity of the watershed as compared
+with the rest of the country, but by the prevailing winds and the
+rains being from the south-east, and thus from the Indian Ocean: with
+this wind generally on the surface one can observe an upper strong
+wind from the north-west, that is, from the low humid West Coast and
+Atlantic Ocean. The double strata of winds can easily be observed when
+there are two sheets of clouds, or when burning grass over scores of
+square miles sends up smoke sufficiently high to be caught by the
+upper or north-west wind. These winds probably meet during the heavy
+rains: now in August they overlap each other. The probability arises
+from all continued rains within the tropics coming in the opposite
+direction from the prevailing wind of the year. Partial rains are
+usually from the south-east.
+
+The direction of the prevailing wind of this region is well marked on
+the islands in Lake Bangweolo: the trunks are bent away from the
+south-east, and the branches on that side are stunted or killed; while
+those on the north-west run out straight and make the trees appear
+lopsided. The same bend away from the south-east is seen on all
+exposed situations, as in the trees covering the brow of a hill. At
+Kizinga, which is higher than the Lake, the trees are covered with
+lichens, chiefly on the south-east sides, and on the upper surfaces of
+branches, running away horizontally to or from the north-west. Plants
+and trees, which elsewhere in Africa grow only on the banks of streams
+and other damp localities, are seen flourishing all over the country:
+the very rocks are covered with lichens, and their crevices with
+ferns.
+
+But that which demonstrates the humidity of the climate most
+strikingly is the number of earthen sponges or oozes met with. In
+going to Bangweolo from Kizinga, I crossed twenty-nine of these
+reservoirs in thirty miles of latitude, on a south-east course: this
+may give about one sponge for every two miles. The word "Bog" conveys
+much of the idea of these earthen sponges; but it is inseparably
+connected in our minds with peat, and these contain not a particle of
+peat, they consist of black porous earth, covered with a hard wiry
+grass, and a few other damp-loving plants. In many places the sponges
+hold large quantities of the oxide of iron, from the big patches of
+brown haematite that crop out everywhere, and streams of this oxide,
+as thick as treacle, are seen moving slowly along in the sponge-like
+small red glaciers. When one treads on the black earth of the sponge,
+though little or no water appears on the surface, it is frequently
+squirted up the limbs, and gives the idea of a sponge. In the paths
+that cross them, the earth readily becomes soft mud, but sinks rapidly
+to the bottom again, as if of great specific gravity: the water in
+them is always circulating and oozing. The places where the sponges
+are met with are slightly depressed valleys without trees or bushes,
+in a forest country where the grass being only a foot or fifteen
+inches high, and thickly planted, often looks like a beautiful glade
+in a gentleman's park in England. They are from a quarter of a mile to
+a mile broad, and from two to ten or more miles long. The water of the
+heavy rains soaks into the level forest lands: one never sees runnels
+leading it off, unless occasionally a footpath is turned to that use.
+The water, descending about eight feet, comes to a stratum of yellow
+sand, beneath which there is another stratum of fine white sand, which
+at its bottom cakes, so as to hold the water from sinking further.
+
+It is exactly the same as we found in the Kalahari Desert, in digging
+sucking places for water for our oxen. The water, both here and there,
+is guided by the fine sand stratum into the nearest valley, and here
+it oozes forth on all sides through the thick mantle of black porous
+earth, which forms the sponge. There, in the desert, it appears to
+damp the surface sands in certain valleys, and the Bushmen, by a
+peculiar process, suck out a supply. When we had dug down to the caked
+sand there years ago, the people begged us not to dig further, as the
+water would all run away; and we desisted, because we saw that the
+fluid poured in from the fine sand all round the well, but none came
+from the bottom or cake. Two stupid Englishmen afterwards broke
+through the cake in spite of the entreaties of the natives, and the
+well and the whole valley dried up hopelessly. Here the water, oozing
+forth from the surface of the sponge mantle, collects in the centre of
+the slightly depressed valley which it occupies, and near the head of
+the depression forms a sluggish stream; but further down, as it meets
+with more slope, it works out for itself a deeper channel, with
+perpendicular banks, with, say, a hundred or more yards of sponge on
+each side, constantly oozing forth fresh supplies to augment its size.
+When it reaches rocky ground it is a perennial burn, with many aquatic
+plants growing in its bottom. One peculiarity would strike anyone: the
+water never becomes discoloured or muddy. I have seen only one stream
+muddied in flood, the Choma, flowing through an alluvial plain in
+Lop�r�. Another peculiarity is very remarkable; it is, that after the
+rains have entirely ceased, these burns have their largest flow, and
+cause inundations. It looks as if towards the end of the rainy season
+the sponges were lifted up by the water off their beds, and the pores
+and holes, being enlarged, are all employed to give off fluid. The
+waters of inundation run away. When the sponges are lifted up by
+superabundance of water, all the pores therein are opened: as the
+earthen mantle subsides again, the pores act like natural valves, and
+are partially closed, and by the weight of earth above them, the water
+is thus prevented from running away altogether; time also being
+required to wet all the sand through which the rains soak, the great
+supply may only find its way to the sponge a month or so after the
+great rains have fallen.
+
+I travelled in Lunda, when the sponges were all supersaturated. The
+grassy sward was so lifted up that it was separated into patches or
+tufts, and if the foot missed the row of tufts of this wiry grass
+which formed the native path, down one plumped up to the thigh in
+slush. At that time we could cross the sponge only by the native
+paths, and the central burn only where they had placed bridges:
+elsewhere they were impassable, as they poured off the waters of
+inundation: our oxen were generally bogged--all four legs went down up
+to the body at once. When they saw the clear sandy bottom of the
+central burn they readily went in, but usually plunged right over
+head, leaving their tail up in the air to show the nervous shock they
+had sustained.
+
+These sponges are a serious matter in travelling. I crossed the
+twenty-nine already mentioned at the end of the fourth month of the
+dry season, and the central burns seemed then to have suffered no
+diminution: they were then from calf to waist deep, and required from
+fifteen to forty minutes in crossing; they had many deep holes in the
+paths, and when one plumps therein every muscle in the frame receives
+a painful jerk. When past the stream, and apparently on partially dry
+ground, one may jog in a foot or more, and receive a squirt of black
+mud up the thighs: it is only when you reach the trees and are off the
+sour land that you feel secure from mud and leeches. As one has to
+strip the lower part of the person in order to ford them, I found that
+often four were as many as we could cross in a day. Looking up these
+sponges a bird's-eye view would closely resemble the lichen-like
+vegetation of frost on window panes; or that vegetation in
+Canada-balsam which mad philosophical instrument makers _will_ put
+between the lenses of the object-glasses of our telescopes. The flat,
+or nearly flat, tops of the subtending and transverse ridges of this
+central country give rise to a great many: I crossed twenty-nine, a
+few of the feeders of Bangweolo, in thirty miles of latitude in one
+direction. Burns are literally innumerable: rising on the ridges, or
+as I formerly termed them mounds, they are undoubtedly the primary or
+ultimate sources of the Zambezi, Congo, and Nile: by their union are
+formed streams of from thirty to eighty or 100 yards broad, and always
+deep enough to require either canoes or bridges. These I propose to
+call the secondary sources, and as in the case of the Nile they are
+drawn off by three lines of drainage, they become the head waters (the
+_caput_ Nili) of the river of Egypt.
+
+Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has watched over and
+enabled me to discover what I have done. There is still much to do,
+and if health and protection be granted I shall make a complete thing
+of it.
+
+[Then he adds in a note a little further on:--]
+
+But few of the sponges on the watershed ever dry; elsewhere many do;
+the cracks in their surface are from 15 to 18 inches deep, with lips
+from 2 to 3 inches apart. Crabs and other animals in clearing out
+their runs reveal what I verified by actually digging wells at Kizinga
+and in Kabuir�, and also observed in the ditches 15 feet deep dug by
+the natives round many of their stockades, that the sponge rests on a
+stratum of fine white washed sand. These cracks afford a good idea of
+the effect of the rains: the partial thunder-showers of October,
+November, December, and even January, produce no effect on them; it is
+only when the sun begins to return from his greatest southern
+declination that the cracks close their large lips. The whole sponge
+is borne up, and covers an enormous mass of water, oozing forth in
+March and April forming the inundations. These floods in the Congo,
+Zambesi, and Nile require different times to reach the sea. The bulk
+of the Zambesi is further augmented by the greater rains finding many
+pools in the beds of its feeders filled in February, as soon as the
+sun comes north.
+
+_Mem._--In apparent contradiction of the foregoing, so far as touches
+the sources of the Zambesi, Syde bin Habib informed me a few days ago
+that he visited the sources of the Liambai and of the Lufira. Each
+comes out of a fountain; the Lufira one is called Changozi, and is
+small, and in a wood of large trees S.W. of Katanga; the fountain of
+the Liambai is so large that one cannot call to a person on the other
+side, and he appears also very small there--the two fountains are just
+five hours distant from each other. He is well acquainted with the
+Liambai (Leeambye), where I first met him. Lunga, another river, comes
+out of nearly the same spot which goes into the Leu�ge, Kafu� (?).
+Lufira is less than Kalongosi up there; that is less than 80 or 200
+yards, and it has deep waterfalls in it. The Kon� range comes down
+north, nearly to Mpm�to's. Mkana is the chief of the stone houses in
+the Baloba, and he may be reached by three days of hard travelling
+from Mpw�to's; Lufira is then one long day west. As Muabo refuses to
+show me his "mita," "miengelo," or "mpamankanana" as they are called,
+I must try and get to those of the Baloba of Mkana.
+
+Senegal swallows pair in the beginning of December.
+
+
+_Note_.--Inundation.
+
+The inundation I have explained in the note on the climate as owing to
+the sponges being supersaturated in the greater rains, when the sun
+returns from his greatest southern declination, the pores are then all
+enlarged, and the water of inundation flows in great volume even after
+the rains have entirely ceased. Something has probably to be learned
+from the rainfall at or beyond the equator, as the sun pursues his way
+north beyond my beat, but the process I have named accounts
+undoubtedly for the inundations of the Congo and Zambesi. The most
+acute of the ancients ascribed the inundation with Strabo to summer
+rains in the south; others to snows melting on the Mountains of the
+Moon; others to the northern wind--the Etesian breezes blowing
+directly against the mouth of the river and its current: others, with
+less reason, ascribed the inundation to its having its source in the
+ocean: Herodotus and Pliny to evaporation following the course of the
+sun.
+
+_1st September, 1868._--Two men come from Casembe--I am reported
+killed. The miningo-tree distils water, which falls in large drops.
+The Luapula seen when the smoke clears off. Fifty of Syde bin Omar's
+people died of small-pox in Usafa. _Mem._ Vaccine virus. We leave on
+the 25th, east bank of Moisi River, and cross the Luongo on the 28th,
+the Lofubu on the 1st October, and the Kalongosi on the 7th.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been unable to find opportunity to make
+daily entries at this period. All was turmoil and panic, and his life
+appears to have been in imminent danger. Briefly we see that on his
+way back from the Lake he found that his Arab associates of the last
+few months had taken up Casembe's cause against the devastating hordes
+of Mazitu, who had swept down on these parts, and had repulsed them.
+But now a fresh complication arose! Casembe and Chikumbi became
+alarmed lest the Arabs, feeling their own power, should turn upon them
+and possess the whole country, so they joined forces and stormed
+Kombokombo, one of the leading Arabs, and with what success we shall
+see. It is a fair specimen of the unaccountable complications which
+dog the steps of the traveller, where war is afoot, and render life a
+misery. He writes as follows on the 5th October:--]
+
+I was detained in the Imbozhwa country much longer than I relished.
+The inroad of the Mazitu, of which Casembe had just heard when we
+reached the Mofw�, was the first cause of delay: he had at once sent
+off men to verify the report, and requested me to remain till his
+messengers should return. This foray produced a state of lawlessness
+in the country, which was the main reason of our further detention.
+
+The Imbozhwa fled before the marauders, and the Banyamwezi or
+Garaganza, who had come in numbers to trade in copper, took on
+themselves the duty of expelling the invaders, and this, by means of
+their muskets, they did effectually, then, building stockades they
+excited the jealousy of the Imbozhwa lords of the soil who, instead of
+feeling grateful, hated the new power thus sprung up among them! They
+had suffered severely from the sharp dealing of the strangers already,
+and Chikumbi made a determined assault on the stockade of Kombokombo
+in vain.
+
+Confusion prevailed all over the country. Some Banyamwezi assumed the
+offensive against the Ba�si, who resemble the Imbozhwa, but are
+further south, and captured and sold some prisoners: it was in this
+state of things that, as already mentioned, I was surrounded by a
+party of furious Imbozhwa. A crowd stood within fifteen or twenty
+yards with spears poised and arrows set in the bowstrings, and some
+took aim at me: they took us for plunderers, and some plants of
+ground-nuts thrown about gave colour to their idea. One good soul
+helped us away--a blessing be on him and his. Another chief man took
+us for Mazitu! In this state of confusion Cazembe heard that my party
+had been cut off: he called in Moenempanda and took the field in
+person, in order to punish the Banyamwezi, against whom he has an old
+grudge for killing a near relative of his family, selling Ba�si, and
+setting themselves up as a power in his country.
+
+The two Arab traders now in the country felt that they must unite
+their forces, and thereby effect a safe retreat. Chikumbi had kept
+twenty-eight tusks for Syde bin Omar safely; but the coming of Casembe
+might have put it out of his power to deliver up his trust in safety,
+for an army here is often quite lawless: each man takes to himself
+what he can. When united we marched from Kizinga on 23rd September
+together, built fences every night to protect ourselves and about 400
+Banyamwezi, who took the opportunity to get safely away. Kombokombo
+came away from his stockade, and also part of the way, but cut away by
+night across country to join the parties of his countrymen who still
+love to trade in Katanga copper. We were not molested, but came nearly
+north to the Kalongosi. Syde parted from us, and went away east to
+Mozamba, and thence to the coast.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[64] The allusion is to Mrs. Livingstone's grave.
+
+[65] At one season the long grass which covers the face of the country
+catches fire. For some three months the air is consequently filled
+with smoke.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. III. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinn�. Notes on climate. Separation of
+    Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria
+    Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A
+    parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country.
+    Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular
+    custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's
+    Expedition. Christmas dinners.
+
+
+_11th October, 1868._--From Kizinga north the country is all covered
+with forest, and thrown up into ridges of hardened sandstone, capped
+occasionally with fine-grained clay schist. Trees often appear of
+large size and of a species closely resembling the gum-copal tree; on
+the heights masukos and rhododendrons are found, and when exposed they
+are bent away from the south-east. Animals, as buffaloes and
+elephants, are plentiful, but wild. Rivulets numerous, and running now
+as briskly as brooks do after much rain in England. All on the
+south-western side of Kalongosi are subjects of Casembe, that is
+Balunda, or Imbozhwa.
+
+It was gratifying to see the Banyamwezi carrying their sick in cots
+slung between two men: in the course of time they tired of this, and
+one man, who was carried several days, remained with Chuma. We crossed
+the Luongo far above where we first became acquainted with it, and
+near its source in Urungu or Usungu Hills, then the Lobubu, a goodly
+stream thirty yards broad and rapid with fine falls above our ford,
+which goes into Kalongosi.
+
+_6th October, 1868._--Cross the Papusi, and a mile beyond the Lu�na of
+forty yards and knee deep; here we were met by about 400 of Kabanda's
+men, as if they were come to dispute our passage at the ford: I went
+over; all were civil; but had we shown any weakness they would no
+doubt have taken advantage of it.
+
+_7th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi, flowing over five
+cataracts made by five islets in a place called Kabw�rum�. Near the
+Mebamba a goodly rivulet joins it.
+
+_12th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi at the ford named
+Mosolo: by pacing I found it to be 240 yards broad, and thigh deep at
+the end of the dry season, it ran so strongly that it was with
+difficulty I could keep my feet. Here 500 at least of Nsama's people
+stood on the opposite shore to know what we wanted. Two fathoms of
+calico were sent over, and then I and thirty guns went over to protect
+the people in the ford: as we approached they retired. I went to them,
+and told them that I had been to Nsama's, and he gave me a goat and
+food, and we were good friends: some had seen me there, and they now
+crowded to look till the Arabs thought it unsafe for me to be among
+them: if I had come with bared skin they would have fled. All became
+friendly: an elephant was killed, and we remained two days buying
+food. We passed down between the ranges of hills on the east of Moero,
+the path we followed when we first visited Casembe.
+
+_20th and 21st October, 1868._--From the Luao I went over to the chief
+village of Muabo, and begged him to show me the excavations in his
+country: he declined, by saying that I came from a crowd of people,
+and must go to Kabwabwata, and wait awhile there, meanwhile he would
+think what he should do, whether to refuse or invite me to come. He
+evidently does not wish me to see his strongholds. All his people
+could go into them, though over ten thousand: they are all abundantly
+supplied with water, and they form the storehouses for grain.
+
+_22nd October, 1868._--We came to Kabwabwata, and I hope I may find a
+way to other underground houses. It is probable that they are not the
+workmanship of the ancestors of the present occupants, for they
+ascribe their formation invariably to the Deity, Mulungu or R�za: if
+their forefathers had made them, some tradition would have existed of
+them.
+
+_23rd October, 1868._--Syde bin Habib came over from Mpw�to's; he
+reports Lualaba and Lufira flowing into the Lake of Kinkonza.
+Lungabal� is paramount chief of Rua.
+
+Mparahala horns measured three feet long and three inches in diameter
+at the base: this is the yellow kualata of Makololo, bastard gemsbuck
+of the Dutch.
+
+_27th, 29th, and 30th October, 1868._--Salem bin Habib was killed by
+the people in Rua: he had put up a tent and they attacked it in the
+night, and stabbed him through it. Syde bin Habib waged a war of
+vengeance all through Rua after this for the murder of his brother:
+Sef's raid may have led the people to the murder.
+
+_29th October, 1868._--In coming north in September and October, the
+last months of the dry season, I crossed many burns flowing quite in
+the manner of our brooks at home, after a great deal of rain; here,
+however, the water was clear, and the banks not abraded in the least.
+Some rivulets had a tinge of white in them, as if of felspar in
+disintegrating granite; some nearly stagnant burns had as if milk and
+water in them, and some red oxide of iron.
+
+Where leeches occur they need no coaxing to bite, but fly at the white
+skin like furies, and refuse to let go: with the fingers benumbed,
+though the water is only 60�, one may twist them round the finger and
+tug, but they slip through. I saw the natives detaching them with a
+smart slap of the palm, and found it quite effectual.
+
+Swifts, Senegal swallows, and common dark-bellied swallows appeared at
+Kizinga in the beginning of October: other birds, as drongo shrikes, a
+bird with a reddish bill, but otherwise like a grey linnet, keep in
+flocks yet. _(5th December.)_ They pair now. The kite came sooner than
+the swallows; I saw the first at Bangweolo on the 20th July, 1868.
+
+_1st November, 1868._--At Kabwabwata; we are waiting till Syde comes
+up that we may help him. He has an enormous number of tusks and bars
+of copper, sufficient it seems for all his people to take forward,
+going and returning three times over. He has large canoes on the Lake,
+and will help us in return.
+
+_2nd November, 1868._--News came yesterday from Mpw�to's that
+twenty-one slaves had run away from Syde bin Habib at one time: they
+were Rua people, and out of the chains, as they were considered safe
+when fairly over the Lualaba, but they showed their love of liberty on
+the first opportunity. Mpw�to is suspected to have harboured them, or
+helped them over the river; this will probably lead to Syde attacking
+him, as he has done to so many chiefs in Rua. In this case Mpw�to will
+have no sympathy; he is so wanting in the spirit of friendliness to
+others.
+
+_3rd November, 1868._--Sent off men to hasten Syde onwards. We start
+in two or three days.
+
+The oldest map known to be in existence is the map of the Ethiopian
+Goldmines, dating from the time of Sethos I., the father of Rameses
+II., long enough before the time of the bronze tablet of Aristagoras,
+on which was inscribed the circuit of the whole earth, and all the sea
+and all rivers. (Tylor, p. 90, quoted from Birch's _Archaeologia_,
+vol. xxxiv. p. 382.) Sesostris was the first to distribute his maps.
+
+_8th November, 1868._--Syde bin Habib is said to have amassed 150
+frasilahs of ivory = 5250 lbs., and 300 frasilahs of copper = 10,500
+lbs. With one hundred carriers he requires to make four relays, or
+otherwise make the journey four times over at every stage. Twenty-one
+of his slaves ran away in one night, and only four were caught again:
+they were not all bought, nor was the copper and ivory come at by fair
+means; the murder of his brother was a good excuse for plunder,
+murder, and capture. Mpw�to is suspected of harbouring them as living
+on the banks of the Lualaba, for they could not get over without
+assistance from his canoes and people. Mpw�to said, "Remove from me,
+and we shall see if they come this way." They are not willing to
+deliver fugitives up. Syde sen� for Elmas, the only thing of the
+Mullam or clerical order here, probably to ask if the Koran authorizes
+him to attack Mpw�to. Mullam will reply, "Yes, certainly. If Mpw�to
+won't restore your slaves, take what you can by force." Syde's
+bloodshed is now pretty large, and he is becoming afraid for his own
+life; if he ceases not, he will himself be caught some day.
+
+Ill of fever two days. Better and thankful.
+
+[Whilst waiting to start for Ujiji, Livingstone was intently occupied
+on the great problem of the Nile and the important part he had taken
+so recently in solving it: he writes at this date as follows:--]
+
+   The discovery of the sources of the Nile is somewhat akin in
+   importance to the discovery of the North-West Passage, which
+   called forth, though in a minor degree, the energy, the
+   perseverance, and the pluck of Englishmen, and anything that does
+   that is beneficial to the nation and to its posterity. The
+   discovery of the sources of the Nile possesses, moreover, an
+   element of interest which the North-West Passage never had. The
+   great men of antiquity have recorded their ardent desires to know
+   the fountains of what Homer called "_Egypt's heaven-descended
+   spring._" Sesostris, the first who in camp with his army made and
+   distributed maps, not to Egyptians only, but to the Scythians,
+   naturally wished to know the springs, says Eustathius, of the
+   river on whose banks he flourished. Alexander the Great, who
+   founded a celebrated city at this river's-mouth, looked up the
+   stream with the same desire, and so did the Caesars. The great
+   Julius Caesar is made by Lucan to say that he would give up the
+   civil war if he might but see the fountains of this far-famed
+   river. Nero Caesar sent two centurions to examine the "_Caput
+   Nili_." They reported that they saw the river rushing with great
+   force from two rocks, and beyond that it was lost in immense
+   marshes. This was probably "native information," concerning the
+   cataracts of the Nile and a long space above them, which had
+   already been enlarged by others into two hills with sharp conical
+   tops called Crophi and Mophi--midway between which lay the
+   fountains of the Nile--fountains which it was impossible to
+   fathom, and which gave forth half their water to Ethiopia in the
+   south, and the other half to Egypt in the north: that which these
+   men failed to find, and that which many great minds in ancient
+   times longed to know, has in this late age been brought to light
+   by the patient toil and laborious perseverance of Englishmen.[66]
+
+   In laying a contribution to this discovery at the feet of his
+   countrymen, the writer desires to give all the honour to his
+   predecessors which they deserve. The work of Speke and Grant is
+   deserving of the highest commendation, inasmuch as they opened up
+   an immense tract of previously unexplored country, in the firm
+   belief they were bringing to light the head of the Nile. No one
+   can appreciate the difficulties of their feat unless he has gone
+   into new country. In association with Captain Burton, Speke came
+   much nearer to the "coy fountains," than at the Victoria Nyanza,
+   but they all turned their backs on them. Mr. Baker showed courage
+   and perseverance worthy of an Englishman in following out the
+   hints given by Speke and Grant. But none rises higher in my
+   estimation than the Dutch lady Miss Tinn�, who, after the
+   severest domestic afflictions, nobly persevered in the teeth of
+   every difficulty, and only turned away from the object of her
+   expedition, after being assured by Speke and Grant that they had
+   already discovered in Victoria Nyanza the sources she sought. Had
+   they not given their own mistaken views, the wise foresight by
+   which she provided a steamer, would inevitably have led her to
+   pull up, and by canoes to reach Lake Bangweolo's sources full
+   five hundred miles south of the most southerly part of Victoria
+   Nyanza. She evidently possesses some of the indomitable pluck of
+   Van Tromp, whose tomb every Englishman who goes to Holland must
+   see.[67] Her doctor was made a baron--were she not a Dutch lady
+   already we think she ought to be made a duchess.
+
+   By way of contrast with what, if I live through it, I shall have
+   to give, I may note some of the most prominent ideas entertained
+   of this world-renowned river. Ptolemy, a geographer who lived in
+   the second century, and was not a king of Egypt, with the most
+   ancient maps made the Nile rise from the "Montes Lunae," between
+   ten and twelve south lat., by six several streams which flowed
+   north into two Lakes, situated east and west of each other.
+   These streams flowed about west of his river Rhapta, or Raptus,
+   which is probably our Rovuma or Louma. This was very near the
+   truth, but the Mountains of the Moon cannot be identified with
+   the Lokinga, or mountains of Bisa, from which many of the springs
+   do actually arise. Unless, indeed, we are nearer to the great
+   alterations in climate which have taken place, as we are supposed
+   to be nearer the epoch of the mammoth, aurochs, and others. Snow
+   never lay in these latitudes, on altitudes of 6000 feet above the
+   sea.
+
+   Some of the ancients supposed the river to have its source in the
+   ocean. This was like the answer we received long ago from the
+   natives on the Liambai or Upper Zambesi when inquiring for its
+   source. "It rises in Leoatl�, the white man's sea, or M�ts�hula."
+   The second name means the "_grazing water_," from the idea of the
+   tides coming in to graze; as to the freshness of the Liambai
+   waters, they could offer no explanation.
+
+   Some again thought that the Nile rose in Western Africa, and
+   after flowing eastwards across the Continent, turned northwards
+   to Egypt; others still thought that it rose in India! and others
+   again, from vague reports collected from their slaves, made it
+   and several other rivers rise but of a great inland sea.
+   _Ach�lunda_ was said to be the name of this Lake, and in the
+   language of Angola, it meant the "sea." It means only "_of_" or
+   "_belonging to Lunda_," a country. It might have been a sea that
+   was spoken of on a whole, or anything. "_Nyassi, or the sea_,"
+   was another name and another blunder. "Nyassi" means long grass,
+   and nothing else. Nyanza contracted into Nyassa, means lake,
+   marsh, any piece of water, or even the dry bed of a lake. The _N_
+   and _y_ are joined in the mouth, and never pronounced separately.
+   The "Naianza"!--it would be nearer the mark to say the Nancy!
+
+   Of all theoretical discoverers, the man who ran in 200 miles of
+   Lake and placed them on a height of some 4000 feet at the
+   north-west end of Lake Nyassa, deserves the highest place. Dr.
+   Beke, in his guess, came nearer the sources than most others, but
+   after all he pointed out where they would not be found. Old Nile
+   played the theorists a pretty prank by having his springs 500
+   miles south of them all! I call mine a contribution, because it
+   is just a hundred years (1769) since Bruce, a greater traveller
+   than any of us, visited Abyssinia, and having discovered the
+   sources of the Blue Nile, he thought that he had then solved the
+   ancient problem. Am I to be cut out by some one discovering
+   southern fountains of the river of Egypt, of which I have now no
+   conception?
+
+   David Livingstone.
+
+[The tiresome procrastination of Mohamad and his horde was not
+altogether an unmixed evil. With so many new discoveries in hand
+Livingstone had an opportunity for working out several problems, and
+instituting comparisons between the phenomena of Inner Africa and the
+well-marked changes which go on in other parts of the world. We find
+him at this time summing them up as follows:--]
+
+The subject of change of climate from alteration of level has not
+received the investigation it deserves. Mr. Darwin saw reason to
+believe that very great alterations of altitude, and of course of
+climate, had taken place in South America and the islands of the
+Pacific; the level of a country above the sea I believe he thought to
+be as variable as the winds. A very great alteration of altitude has
+also taken place in Africa; this is apparent on the sea-coast of
+Angola, and all through the centre of the country, where large rivers
+which once flowed southwards and westwards are no longer able to run
+in these directions: the general desiccation of the country, as seen
+in the beds of large rivers and of enormous lakes, tells the same
+tale. Portions of the east coast have sunk, others have risen, even in
+the Historic Period. The upper or northern end of the Red Sea has
+risen, so that the place of the passage of the children of Israel is
+now between forty and fifty miles from Suez, the modern head of the
+Gulf. This upheaval, and not the sand from the desert, caused the
+disuse of the ancient canal across the Isthmus: it took place since
+the Mohamadan conquest of Egypt. The women of the Jewish captivities
+were carried past the end of the Red Sea and along the Mediterranean
+in ox-waggons, where such cattle would now all perish for want of
+water and pasture; in fact, the route to Assyria would have proved
+more fatal to captives then than the middle passage has been to
+Africans since. It may be true that, _as the desert is now_, it could
+not have been traversed by the multitude under Moses--the German
+strictures put forth by Dr. Colenso, under the plea of the progress of
+science, assume that no alteration has taken place in either desert or
+climate--but a scientific examination of the subject would have
+ascertained what the country was then when it afforded pasture to
+"flocks and herds, and even very much cattle." We know that Eziongeber
+was, with its docks, on the seashore, with water in abundance for the
+ship-carpenters: it is now far from the head of the Elaic Gulf in a
+parched desert. Aden, when visited by the Portuguese Balthazar less
+than 300 years ago, was a perfect garden; but it is now a vast
+conglomeration of black volcanic rocks, with so little vegetation,
+that, on seeing flocks of goats driven out, I thought of the Irish
+cabman at an ascent slamming the door of his cab and whispering to his
+fare, "Whish, it's to desave the baste: he thinks that you are out
+walking." Gigantic tanks in great numbers and the ruins of aqueducts
+appear as relics of the past, where no rain now falls for three or
+more years at a time. They have all dried up by a change of climate,
+possibly similar and cotemporaneous with that which has dried up the
+Dead Sea.
+
+The journey of Ezra was undertaken after a fast at the River Ahava.
+With nearly 50,000 people he had only about 8000 beasts of burden. He
+was ashamed to ask a band of soldiers and horsemen for protection in
+the way. It took about four months to reach Jerusalem; this would give
+five and a half or six miles a day, as the crow flies, which is equal
+to twelve or fifteen miles of surface travelled over; this bespeaks a
+country capable of yielding both provisions and water, such as cannot
+now be found. Ezra would not have been ashamed to ask for camels to
+carry provisions and water had the country been as dry as it is now.
+The prophets, in telling all the woes and miseries of the captivities,
+never allude to suffering or perishing by thirst in the way, or being
+left to rot in the route as African slaves are now in a well-watered
+country. Had the route to Assyria been then as it is now, they could
+scarcely have avoided referring to the thirst of the way; but
+everything else is mentioned except that.
+
+Respecting this system of Lakes in the centre of Africa, it will
+possibly occur to some that Lake Nyassa may give a portion of its
+water off from its northern end to the Nile, but this would imply a
+Lake giving off a river at both ends; the country, too, on the
+north-north-west and north-east rises to from 4000 to 6000 feet above
+the sea, and there is not the smallest indication that Nyassa and
+Tanganyika were ever connected. Lake Liemba is the most southerly part
+of Tanganyika; its latitude is 8� 46' south; the most northerly point
+of Lake Nyassa is probably 10� 56'-8� 46' = 2� 10'. Longitude of
+Liemba 34� 57'-31� 57' = 3� 00' = 180' of longitude. Of latitude 130'
++ 180' = 310', two-thirds of which is about 206', the distance between
+two Lakes; and no evidence of fissure, rent, or channel now appears on
+the highland between.
+
+Again, Liemba is 3000 feet above the sea. The altitude of Nyassa is
+1200/x800 feet. Tanganyika would thus go to Nyassa--down the Shir�
+into the Zambesi and the sea, if a passage existed even below ground.
+
+The large Lake, said to exist to the north-west of Tanganyika might,
+however, send a branch to the Nile; but the land rises up into a high
+ridge east of this Lake.
+
+It is somewhat remarkable that the impression which intelligent
+Suaheli, who have gone into Karagw�, have received is, that the
+Kitangul� flows from Tanganyika into Lake Ukerew�. One of Syde bin
+Omar's people put it to me very forcibly the other day by saying,
+"Kitangul� is an arm of Tanganyika!" He had not followed it out; but
+that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika, should have in his lifetime
+seriously proposed to deepen the upper part of it, so as to allow
+canoes to pass from his place to Ujiji, is very strong evidence of the
+river being large on the Tanganyika side. We know it to be of good
+size, and requiring canoes on the Ukerew� side. Burton came to the
+very silly conclusion that when a native said a river ran one way, he
+meant that it flowed in the opposite direction. Ujiji, in Rumanyika's
+time, was the only mart for merchandise in the country. Garaganza or
+Galaganza has most trade and influence now. (_14th Sept., 1868._)
+
+Okara is the name by which Victoria Nyanza is known on the eastern
+side, and an arm of it, called Kavirondo, is about forty miles broad.
+Lake Baringo is a distinct body of water, some fifty miles broad, and
+giving off a river called Ngardabash, which flows eastwards into the
+Somauli country. Lake Naibash is more to the east than Kavirondo, and
+about fifty miles broad too: it gives off the River Kid�t�, which is
+supposed to flow into Lufu. It is south-east of Kavirondo; and
+Kilimanjaro can be seen from its shores; in the south-east Okara,
+Naibash and Baringo seem to have been run by Speke into one Lake.
+Okara, in the south, is full of large islands, and has but little
+water between them; that little is encumbered with aquatic vegetation
+called "Tikatika," on which, as in lakelet Gumadona, a man can walk.
+Waterlilies and duckweed are not the chief part of this floating mass.
+In the north Okara is large. Burukinegg� land is the boundary between
+the people of Kavirondo and the Gallahs with camels and horses.
+
+_9th November, 1868._--Copied several Notes written at Kizinga and
+elsewhere, and at Kabwabwata resume Journal. Some slight showers have
+cooled the air a little: this is the hottest time of the year.
+
+_10th November, 1868._--A heavier shower this morning will have more
+of the same effect.
+
+_11th November, 1868._--Muabo visited this village, but refuses to
+show his underground houses.
+
+_13th November, 1868._--I was on the point of starting without Mohamad
+Bogharib, but he begged me not to go till he had settled some weighty
+matter about a wife he is to get at Ujiji from Mpamari; we must have
+the new moon, which will appear in three days, for lucky starting, and
+will leave Syde bin Habib at Chisabi's. Meanwhile two women slaves ran
+away, and Syde has got only five back of his twenty-one fugitives.
+Mullam was mild with his decisions, and returned here; he informed me
+that many of Syde's slaves, about forty, fled. Of those who cannot
+escape many die, evidently broken-hearted; they are captives, and not,
+as slaves often are, criminals sold for their guilt, hence the great
+mortality caused by being taken to the sea to be, as they believe,
+fatted and eaten. Poor things! Heaven help them!
+
+Ujiji is the pronunciation of the Banyamwezi; and they call the people
+Wayeiy�, exactly as the same people styled themselves on the River
+Zougha, near Ngami.
+
+[It will be remembered that several of his men refused to go to Lake
+Bangweolo with him: they seem now to have thought better of it, and on
+his return are anxious to come back to their old master who, for his
+part, is evidently willing to overlook a good deal.]
+
+I have taken all the runaways back again; after trying the independent
+life they will behave better. Much of their ill conduct may be
+ascribed to seeing that after the flight of the Johanna men I was
+entirely dependent on them: more enlightened people often take
+advantage of men in similar circumstances; though I have seen pure
+Africans come out generously to aid one abandoned to their care. I
+have faults myself.
+
+_15th November, 1868._--The Arabs have some tradition of the Emir Musa
+coming as far south as the Jagga country. Some say he lived N.E. of
+Sunna, now Mt�za; but it is so mixed up with fable and tales of the
+Genii (Mageni), that it cannot refer to the great Moses, concerning
+whose residence at Mer�e and marriage of the king of Ethiopia's
+daughter there is also some vague tradition further north: the only
+thing of interest to me is the city of Mer�e, which is lost, and may,
+if built by ancient Egyptians, still be found.
+
+The Africans all beckon with the hand, to call a person, in a
+different way from what Europeans do. The hand is held, as surgeons
+say, _prone_, or palm down, while we beckon with the hand held
+_supine_, or palm up: it is quite natural in them, for the idea in
+their mind is to lay the hand on the person and draw him towards them.
+If the person wished for is near, say forty yards off, the beckoner
+puts out his right hand on a level with his breast, and makes the
+motion of catching the other by shutting the fingers and drawing him
+to himself: if the person is further off, this motion is exaggerated
+by lifting up the right hand as high as he can; he brings it down with
+a sweep towards the ground, the hand being still held prone as before.
+In nodding assent they differ from us by lifting up the chin instead
+of bringing it down as we do. This lifting up the chin looks natural
+after a short usage therewith, and is perhaps purely conventional, not
+natural, as the other seems to be.
+
+_16th November, 1868._--I am tired out by waiting after finishing the
+Journal, and will go off to-morrow north. Simon killed a zebra after I
+had taken the above resolution, and this supply of meat makes delay
+bearable, for besides flesh, of which I had none, we can buy all kinds
+of grain and pulse for the next few days. The women of the adjacent
+villages crowd into this as soon as they hear of an animal killed, and
+sell all the produce of their plantations for meat.
+
+_17th November, 1868._--It is said that on the road to the Great Salt
+Lake in America the bones and skulls of animals lie scattered
+everywhere, yet travellers are often put to great straits for fuel:
+this, if true, is remarkable among a people so apt in turning
+everything to account as the Americans. When we first steamed up the
+River Shir� our fuel ran out in the elephant marsh, where no trees
+exist, and none could be reached without passing through many miles on
+either side of impassable swamp, covered with reeds, and intersected
+everywhere with deep branches of the river. Coming to a spot where an
+elephant had been slaughtered, I at once took the bones on board, and
+these, with the bones of a second elephant, enabled us to steam
+briskly up to where wood abounded. The Scythians, according to
+Herodotus, used the bones[68] of the animal sacrificed to boil the
+flesh, the Guachos of South America do the same when they have no
+fuel: the ox thus boils himself.
+
+_18th November, 1868._--A pretty little woman ran away from her
+husband, and came to "Mpamari." Her husband brought three hoes, a
+checked cloth, and two strings of large neck beads to redeem her; but
+this old fellow wants her for himself, and by native law he can keep
+her as his slave-wife. Slave-owners make a bad neighbourhood, for the
+slaves, are always running away and the headmen are expected to
+restore the fugitives for a bit of cloth. An old woman of Mpmari fled
+three times; she was caught yesterday, and tied to a post for the
+young slaves to plague her. Her daughter burst into an agony of tears
+on seeing them tying her mother, and Mpamari ordered her to be tied to
+the mother's back for crying; I interceded for her, and she was let
+go. He said, "You don't care, though Sayed Majid loses his money." I
+replied, "Let the old woman go, she will be off again to-morrow." But
+they cannot bear to let a slave have freedom. I don't understand what
+effect his long prayers and prostrations towards the "Kibla" have on
+his own mind, they cannot affect the minds of his slaves favourably,
+nor do they mine, though I am as charitable as most people.
+
+_19th November, 1868._--I prepared to start to-day, but Mohamad
+Bogharib has been very kind, and indeed cooked meals for me from my
+arrival at Casembe's, 6th May last, till we came here, 22nd October;
+the food was coarse enough, but still it was food; and I did not like
+to refuse his genuine hospitality. He now begged of me not to go for
+three days, and then he would come along with me! Mpamari also
+entreated. I would not have minded him, but they have influence with
+the canoe-men on Tanganyika, and it is well not to get a bad name if
+possible.
+
+_20th November, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib purposed to attack two
+villages near to this, from an idea that the people there concealed
+his runaway slaves; by remaining I think that I have put a stop to
+this, as he did not like to pillage while I was in company: Mpamari
+also turned round towards peace, though he called all the riff-raff to
+muster, and caracoled among them like an old broken-winded horse. One
+man became so excited with yelling, that the others had to disarm
+him, and he then fell down as if in a fit; water poured on his head
+brought him to calmness. We go on the 22nd.
+
+_22nd November, 1868._--This evening the Imbozhwa, or Babemba, came at
+dusk, and killed a Wanyamwezi woman on one side of the village, and a
+woman and child on the other side of it. I took this to be the result
+of the warlike demonstration mentioned above; but one of Mohamad
+Bogharib's people, named Bin Juma, had gone to a village on the north
+of this and seized two women and two girls, in lieu of four slaves who
+had run away. The headman, resenting this, shot an arrow into one of
+Bin Junta's party, and Bin Juma shot a woman with his gun.
+
+This, it turned out, had roused the whole country, and next morning we
+were assailed by a crowd of Imbozhwa on three sides: we had no
+stockade, but the men built one as fast as the enemy allowed, cutting
+down trees and carrying them to the line of defence, while others kept
+the assailants at bay with their guns. Had it not been for the crowd
+of Banyamwezi which we have, who shot vigorously with their arrows,
+and occasionally chased the Imbozhwa, we should have been routed. I
+did not go near the fighting, but remained in my house to defend my
+luggage if necessary. The women went up and down the village with
+sieves, as if winnowing, and singing songs, and lullilooing, to
+encourage their husbands and friends who were fighting, each had a
+branch of the Ficus indica in her hand, which she waved, I suppose as
+a charm. About ten of the Imbozhwa are said to have been killed, but
+dead and wounded were at once carried off by their countrymen. They
+continued the assault from early dawn till 1 P.M., and showed great
+bravery, but they wounded only two with their arrows. Their care to
+secure the wounded was admirable: two or three at once seized the
+fallen man, and ran off with him, though pursued by a great crowd of
+Banyamwezi with spears, and fired at by the Suaheli--Victoria-cross
+fellows truly many of them were! Those who had a bunch of animals'
+tails, with medicine, tied to their waists, came sidling and ambling
+up to near the unfinished stockade, and shot their arrows high up into
+the air, to fall among the Wanyamwezi, then picked up any arrows on
+the field, ran back, and returned again. They thought that by the
+ambling gait they avoided the balls, and when these whistled past them
+they put down their heads, as if to allow them to pass over; they had
+never encountered guns before. We did not then know it, but Muabo,
+Phuta, Nguru�, Sandaruko, and Chapi, were the assailants, for we found
+it out by the losses each of these five chiefs sustained.
+
+It was quite evident to me that the Suaheli Arabs were quite taken
+aback by the attitude of the natives; they expected them to flee as
+soon as they heard a gun fired in anger, but instead of this we were
+very nearly being cut off, and should have been but for our Banyamwezi
+allies. It is fortunate that the attacking party had no success in
+trying to get Mpw�to and Karembw� to join them against us, or it would
+have been more serious still.
+
+_24th November, 1868._--The Imbozhwa, or Babemba rather, came early
+this morning, and called on Mohamad to come out of his stockade if he
+were a man who could fight, but the fence is now finished, and no one
+seems willing to obey the taunting call: I have nothing to do with it,
+but feel thankful that I was detained, and did not, with my few
+attendants, fall into the hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. They
+kept up the attack to-day, and some went out to them, fighting till
+noon: when a man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi
+brought his head and put it on a pole on the stockade--six heads were
+thus placed. A fine young man was caught and brought in by the
+Wanyamwezi, one stabbed him behind, another cut his forehead with an
+axe, I called in vain to them not to kill him. As a last appeal, he
+said to the crowd that surrounded him, "Don't kill me, and I shall
+take you to where the women are." "You lie," said his enemies; "you
+intend to take us where we may be shot by your friends;" and they
+killed him. It was horrible: I protested loudly against any repetition
+of this wickedness, and the more sensible agreed that prisoners ought
+not to be killed, but the Banyamwezi are incensed against the Babemba
+because of the women killed on the 22nd.
+
+_25th November, 1868._--The Babemba kept off on the third day, and the
+Arabs are thinking it will be a good thing if we get out of the
+country unscathed. Men were sent off on the night of the 23rd to Syde
+bin Habib for powder and help. Mohamad Bogharib is now unwilling to
+take the onus of the war: he blames Mpamari, and Mpamari blames him; I
+told Mohamad that the war was undoubtedly his work, inasmuch as Bin
+Juma is his man, and he approved of his seizing the women.
+
+He does not like this, but it is true; he would not have entered a
+village of Casembe or Moamba or Chikumbi as he did Chapi's man's
+village: the people here are simply men of more metal than he
+imagined, and his folly in beginning a war in which, if possible, his
+slaves will slip through his hands is apparent to all, even to
+himself. Syde sent four barrels of gunpowder and ten men, who arrived
+during last night.
+
+_27th November, 1868._--Two of Muabo's men came over to bring on a
+parley; one told us that he had been on the south side of the village
+before, and heard one man say to another "mo pig�" (shoot him).
+Mpamari gave them a long oration in exculpation, but it was only the
+same everlasting, story of fugitive slaves. The slave-traders cannot
+prevent them from escaping, and impudently think that the country
+people ought to catch them, and thus be their humble servants, and
+also the persecutors of their own countrymen! If they cannot keep
+them, why buy them--why put their money into a bag with holes?
+
+It is exactly what took place in America--slave-owners are bad
+neighbours everywhere. Canada was threatened, England browbeaten, and
+the Northerners all but kicked on the same score, and all as if
+property in slaves had privileges which no other goods have. To hear
+the Arabs say of the slaves after they are fled, "Oh, they are bad,
+bad, very bad!" (and they entreated me too to free them from the
+yoke), is, as the young ladies say, "too absurd." The chiefs also who
+do not apprehend fugitives, they too are "bad."
+
+I proposed to Mohamad Bogharib to send back the women seized by Bin
+Juma, to show the Babemba that he disapproved of the act and was
+willing to make peace, but this was too humiliating; I added that
+their price as slaves was four barrels of gunpowder or 160 dollars,
+while slaves lawfully bought would have cost him only eight or ten
+yards of calico each. At the conclusion of Mpamari's speech the four
+barrels of gunpowder were exhibited, and so was the Koran, to impress
+them (Muabo's people) with an idea of their great power.
+
+_28th and 29th November, 1868._--It is proposed to go and force our
+way if we can to the north, but all feel that that would be a fine
+opportunity for the slaves to escape, and they would not be loth to
+embrace it; this makes it a serious matter, and the Koran is consulted
+at hours which are auspicious.
+
+_30th November, 1868._--Messengers sent to Muabo to ask a path, or in
+plain words protection from him; Mpamari protests his innocence of the
+whole affair.
+
+_1st December, 1868._--Muabo's people over again; would fain send them
+to make peace with Chapi!
+
+_2nd December, 1868._--The detention is excessively vexatious to me.
+Muabo sent three slaves as offers of peace--a fine self-imposed, but
+he is on our south side, and we wish to go north.
+
+_3rd December, 1868._--A party went to-day to clear the way to the
+north, but were warmly received by Babemba with arrows; they came back
+with one woman captured, and they say that they killed one man: one of
+themselves is wounded, and many others in danger: others who went east
+were shot at, and wounded too.
+
+_4th December, 1868._--A party went east, and were fain to flee from
+the Babemba, the same thing occurred on our west, and to-day _(5th)_
+all were called to strengthen the stockade for fear that the enemy may
+enter uninvited. The slaves would certainly flee, and small blame to
+them though they did. Mpamari proposed to go off north by night, but
+his people objected, as even a child crying would arouse the Babemba,
+and reveal the flight, so finally he sent off to ask Syde what he
+ought to do, whether to retire by day or by night; probably entreating
+Syde to come and protect him.
+
+A sort of idol is found in every village in this part, it is of wood,
+and represents the features, markings and fashion of the hair of the
+inhabitants: some have little huts built for them--others are in
+common houses. The Babemba call them _Nkisi_ ("Sancan" of the Arabs):
+the people of Rua name one _Kalubi_; the plural, _Tulubi_; and they
+present pombe, flour, bhang, tobacco, and light a fire for them to
+smoke by. They represent the departed father or mother, and it is
+supposed that they are pleased with the offerings made to their
+representatives, but all deny that they pray to them. Casembe has very
+many of these Nkisi; one with long hair, and named _Motombo_, is
+carried in front when he takes the field; names of dead chiefs are
+sometimes given to them. I have not met with anyone intelligent enough
+to explain if prayers are ever made to anyone; the Arabs who know
+their language, say they have no prayers, and think that at death
+there is an end of the whole man, but other things lead me to believe
+this is erroneous. Slaves laugh at their countrymen, in imitation of
+their masters, and will not reveal their real thoughts: one said that
+they believed in two Superior Beings--R�za above, who kills people,
+and R�za below, who carries them away after death.
+
+_6th December, 1868._--Ten of Syde bin Habib's people came over,
+bringing a letter, the contents of which neither Mpamari nor Mohamad
+cares to reveal. Some think, with great probability, that he asks,
+"Why did you begin a war if you wanted to leave so soon? Did you not
+know that the country people would take advantage of your march,
+encumbered as you will be by women and slaves?" Mohamad Bogharib
+called me to ask what advice I could give him, as all his own advice,
+and devices too, had been lost or were useless, and he did not know
+what to do. The Banyamwezi threatened to go off by night and leave
+him, as they are incensed against the Babemba, and offended because
+the Arabs do not aid them in wreaking their vengeance upon them.
+
+I took care not to give any advice, but said, if I had been or was in
+his place, I would have sent or would send back Bin Juma's captives,
+to show that I disapproved of his act--the first in the war--and was
+willing to make peace with Chapi. He said that he did not know that
+Bin Juma would capture these people; that Bin Juma had met some
+natives with fish, and took ten by force, that the natives, in
+revenge, caught three Banyamwezi slaves, and Bin Juma then gave one
+slave to them as a fine, but Mohamad did not know of this affair
+either. I am of opinion, however, that he was fully aware of both
+matters, and Mpamari's caracoling showed that he knew it all, though
+now he denies it.
+
+Bin Juma is a long, thin, lanky Suaheli, six feet two high, with a
+hooked nose and large lips: I told Mohamad that if he were to go with
+us to Manyuema, the whole party would be cut off. He came here, bought
+a slave-boy, and allowed him to escape; then browbeat Chapi's man
+about him (and he says, three others); and caught ten in lieu of him,
+of which Mohamad restored six: this was the origin of the war. Now
+that we are in the middle of it, I must do as Mohamad does in going
+off either by day or by night. It is unreasonable to ask my advice
+now, but it is felt that they have very unjustifiably placed me in a
+false position, and they fear that Syed Majid will impute blame to
+them, meanwhile Syde bin Habib sent a private message to me to come
+with his men to him, and leave this party.
+
+I perceive that the plan now is to try and clear our way of Chapi, and
+then march, but I am so thoroughly disgusted with this slave-war, that
+I think of running the risk of attack by the country people, and go
+off to-morrow without Mohamad Bogharib, though I like him much more
+than I do Mpamari or Syde bin Habib. It is too glaring hypocrisy to go
+to the Koran for guidance while the stolen women, girls, and fish, are
+in Bin Juma's hands.
+
+_8th and 9th December, 1868._--I had to wait for the Banyamwezi
+preparing food: Mohamad has no authority over them, or indeed over
+anyone else. Two Babemba men came in and said that they had given up
+fighting, and begged for their wives, who had been captured by Syde's
+people on their way here: this reasonable request was refused at
+first, but better counsels prevailed, and they were willing to give
+something to appease the anger of the enemy, and sent back six
+captives, two of whom were the wives prayed for.
+
+[At last he makes a start on the 11th of December with the Arabs, who
+are bound eastwards for Ujiji. It is a motley group, composed of
+Mohamad and his friends, a gang of Unyamwezi hangers-on, and strings
+of wretched slaves yoked together in their heavy slave-sticks. Some
+carry ivory, others copper, or food for the march, whilst hope and
+fear, misery and villainy, may be read off on the various faces that
+pass in line out of this country, like a serpent dragging its accursed
+folds away from the victim it has paralysed with its fangs.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_11th December, 1868._--We marched four hours unmolested by the
+natives, built a fence, and next day crossed the Lokinda River and its
+feeder the Mookosi; here the people belonged to Chisabi, who had not
+joined the other Babemba. We go between two ranges of tree-covered
+mountains, which are continuations of those on each side of Moero.
+
+_12th December, 1868._--The tiresome tale of slaves running away was
+repeated again last night by two of Mpamari's making off, though in
+the yoke, and they had been with him from boyhood. Not one
+good-looking slave-woman is now left of Mohamad Bogharib's fresh
+slaves; all the pretty ones obtain favour by their address, beg to be
+unyoked, and then escape. Four hours brought us to many villages of
+Chisabi and the camp of Syde bin Habib in the middle of a set-in rain,
+which marred the demonstration at meeting with his relative Mpamari;
+but the women braved it through, wet to the skin, and danced and
+lullilooed with "draigled" petticoats with a zeal worthy of a better
+cause, as the "penny-a-liners" say. It is the custom for the trader
+who receives visitors to slaughter goats, and feed all his guests for
+at least two days, nor was Syde wanting in this hospitality, though
+the set-in rain continuing, we did not enjoy it as in fine weather.
+
+_14th December, 1868._--Cotton-grass and brackens all over the country
+show the great humidity of Marungu. Rain daily; but this is not the
+great rain which falls when the sun comes back south over our heads.
+
+_15th December, 1868._--March two hours only to the range of Tamba. A
+pretty little light-grey owl, called "nkw�kw�," was killed by a
+native as food; a black ring round its face and its black ears gave it
+all the appearance of a cat, whose habits it follows.
+
+_16th to 18th December, 1868._--A brother of Syde bin Habib died last
+night: I had made up my mind to leave the whole party, but Syde said
+that Chisabi was not to be trusted, and the death of his brother
+having happened, it would not be respectful to leave him to bury his
+dead alone. Six of his slaves fled during the night--one, the keeper
+of the others. A Mobemba man, who had been to the coast twice with
+him, is said to have wished a woman who was in the chain, so he loosed
+five out, and took her off; the others made clear heels of it, and now
+that the grass is long and green, no one can trace their course.
+
+Syde told me that the slaves would not have detained him, but his
+brother's death did. We buried the youth, who has been ill three
+months. Mpamari descended into the grave with four others; a broad
+cloth was held over them horizontally, and a little fluctuation made,
+as if to fan those who were depositing the body in the side excavation
+made at the bottom: when they had finished they pulled in earth, and
+all shoved it towards them till the grave was level. Mullam then came
+and poured a little water into and over the grave, mumbled a few
+prayers, at which Mpamari said aloud to me, "Mullam does not let his
+voice be heard;" and Mullam smiled to me, as if to say, "Loud enough
+for all I shall get:" during the ceremony the women were all wailing
+loudly. We went to the usual sitting-place, and shook hands with Syde,
+as if receiving him back again into the company of the living.
+
+Syde told me previously to this event that he had fought the people
+who killed his elder brother Salem bin Habib, and would continue to
+fight them till all their country was spoiled and a desolation: there
+is no forgiveness with Moslems for bloodshed. He killed many, and took
+many slaves, ivory, and copper: his tusks number over 200, many of
+large size.
+
+_19th and 20th December, 1868._--To Chisabi's village stockade, on the
+left bank of the Lofunso, which flows in a marshy valley three miles
+broad. Eight of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves fled by night, one with his
+gun and wife; a, large party went in search, but saw nothing of them.
+
+To-day an elephant was killed, and they sent for the meat, but Chisabi
+ordered the men to let his meat alone: experience at Kabwabwata said,
+"Take the gentle course," so two fathoms of calico and two hoes were
+sent to propitiate the chief; Chisabi then demanded half the meat and
+one tusk: the meat was given, but the tusk was mildly refused: he is
+but a youth, and this is only the act of his counsellors. It was
+replied that Casembe, Chikumbi, Nsama, Mer�r�, made no demand at all:
+his counsellors have probably heard of the Portuguese self-imposed
+law, and wish to introduce it here, but both tusks were secured.
+
+_22nd December, 1868._--We crossed the Lofunso River, wading three
+branches, the first of forty-seven yards, then the river itself, fifty
+yards, and neck deep to men and women of ordinary size. Two were swept
+away and drowned; other two were rescued by men leaping in and saving
+them, one of whom was my man Susi. A crocodile bit one person badly,
+but was struck, and driven off. Two slaves escaped by night; a woman
+loosed her husband's yoke from the tree, and got clear off.
+
+_24th December, 1868._--Five sick people detain us to-day; some cannot
+walk from feebleness and purging brought on by sleeping on the damp
+ground without clothes.
+
+Syde bin Habib reports a peculiar breed of goats in Rua, remarkably
+short in the legs, so much so, that they cannot travel far; they give
+much milk, and become very fat, but the meat is indifferent. Gold is
+found at Katanga in the pool of a waterfall only: it probably comes
+from the rocks above this. His account of the Lofu, or, as he says,
+West Lualaba, is identical with that of his cousin, Syde bin Omar; it
+flows north, but west of Lufira, into the Lake of Kinkonza, so named
+after the chief. The East Lualaba becomes very large, often as much as
+six or eight miles broad, with many inhabited islands, the people of
+which, being safe from invasion, are consequently rapacious and
+dishonest, and their chiefs, Moeng� and Nyamakunda, are equally
+lawless. A hunter, belonging to Syde, named Kabwebwa, gave much
+information gleaned during his hunting trips; for instance, the Lufira
+has nine feeders of large size; and one, the Lekulw�, has also nine
+feeders; another, the Kisungu, is covered with, "tikatika," by which
+the people cross it, though it bends under their weight; he also
+ascribes the origin of the Lufira and the Lualaba West, or Lofu, with
+the Liambai to one large earthen mound, which he calls "segulo," or an
+anthill!
+
+_25th December, 1868, Christmas Day._--We can buy nothing except the
+very coarsest food--not a goat or fowl--while Syde, having plenty of
+copper, can get all the luxuries. We marched past Mount Katanga,
+leaving it on our left, to the River Kap�ta, and slaughtered a
+favourite kid to make a Christmas dinner. A trading-party came up from
+Ujiji; they said that we were ten camps from Tanganyika. They gave an
+erroneous report that a steamer with a boat in tow was on Lake
+Chowamb�--an English one, too, with plenty of cloth and beads on
+board. A letter had come from Abdullah bin Salem, Moslem missionary at
+Mt�sa's, to Ujiji three months ago with this news.
+
+_26th December, 1868._--We marched up an ascent 2-1/2 hours, and got
+on to the top of one of the mountain ridges, which generally run N.
+and S. Three hours along this level top brought us to the Kibaw�
+River, a roaring rivulet beside villages. There were no people on the
+height over which we came, though the country is very fine--green and
+gay with varying shades of that colour. We passed through patches of
+brackens five feet high and gingers in flower, and were in a damp
+cloud all day. Now and then a drizzle falls in these parts, but it
+keeps all damp only, and does not show in the rain-gauge. Neither sun
+nor stars appear.
+
+_27th and 28th December, 1868._--Remain on Sunday, then march and
+cross five rivulets about four yards wide and knee deep, going to the
+Lofunso. The grass now begins to cover and hide the paths; its growth
+is very rapid: blobs of water lie on the leaves all day, and keep the
+feet constantly wet by falling as we pass.
+
+_29th December, 1868._--We kept well on the ridge between two ranges
+of hills; then went down, and found a partially-burned native
+stockade, and lodged in it; the fires of the Ujiji party had set the
+huts on fire after the party left. We are in the Itand� district at
+the Nswiba River.
+
+_30th December, 1868._--We now went due east, and made a good deal of
+easting too from Mount Katanga on the Lofunso, and crossed the River
+Lokivwa, twelve yards wide, and very deep, with villages all about. We
+ascended much as we went east. Very high mountains appeared on the
+N.W. The woods dark gieen, with large patches of a paler hue.
+
+_31st December, 1868._--We reached the Lofuko yesterday in a pelting
+rain; not knowing that the camp with huts was near, I stopped and put
+on a bernouse, got wet, and had no dry clothes. Remain to-day to buy
+food. Clouds cover all the sky from N.W. The river, thirty yards wide,
+goes to Tanganyika east of this. Scenery very lovely.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[66] In 1827 Linant reached 13� 30' N. on the White Nile. In 1841 the
+second Egyptian, under D'Arnauld and Sabatier, explored the river to
+4� 42' N., and Jomard published his work on Limmoo and the River
+Habaiah. Dr. Beke and Mr. D'Abbadie contributed their share to making
+the Nile better known. Brun Rollet established a trading station in
+1854 at Belema on the Nile at 5� N. lat.
+
+[67] Miss Tinn� succumbed to the dangers of African travelling before
+Livingstone penned these just words of appreciation.
+
+[68] Ezek. xxiv. 5.
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID
+LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2),
+1866-1868***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 16672-8.txt or 16672-8.zip *******
+
+
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672
+
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit:
+https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
diff --git a/16672-8.zip b/16672-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..59323a8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-8.zip
diff --git a/16672-h.zip b/16672-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..290b8a7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h.zip
diff --git a/16672-h/16672-h.htm b/16672-h/16672-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bc77cee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/16672-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,14576 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html>
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by David Livingstone</title>
+<style type="text/css">
+/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
+<!--
+    p {  margin-top: .75em;
+         text-align: justify;
+         margin-bottom: .75em;
+         }
+    h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+         text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+         clear: both;
+         }
+    hr { width: 33%;
+         margin-top: 2em;
+         margin-bottom: 2em;
+         margin-left: auto;
+         margin-right: auto;
+         clear: both;
+       }
+
+    table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;}
+
+    body{margin-left: 10%;
+         margin-right: 10%;
+        }
+
+    .linenum  {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */
+    .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: smaller;}
+    .pagenum  {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */
+    .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em;
+               padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em;
+               float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em;
+               font-size: smaller; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;}
+
+    .bb       {border-bottom: solid 2px;}
+    .bl       {border-left: solid 2px;}
+    .bt       {border-top: solid 2px;}
+    .br       {border-right: solid 2px;}
+    .bbox     {border: solid 2px;}
+
+    .center   {text-align: center;}
+    .smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+
+    .figcenter   {margin: auto; text-align: center;}
+
+    .figleft     {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top:
+                 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;}
+
+    .figright    {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;
+                 margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;}
+
+    .footnotes        {border: dashed 1px; font-size: smaller; font-size: smaller;}
+    .footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+    .footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
+    .fnanchor         {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;}
+
+    .poem             {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left; font-size: smaller;}
+    .poem br          {display: none;}
+    .poem .stanza     {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;}
+    .poem span        {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;}
+    .poem span.i2     {display: block; margin-left: 2em;}
+    .poem span.i4     {display: block; margin-left: 4em;}
+    hr.full { width: 100%; }
+    pre      {font-size: 8pt;}
+    // -->
+    /* XML end  ]]>*/
+</style>
+</head>
+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by
+David Livingstone, Edited by Horace Waller</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868</p>
+<p>Author: David Livingstone</p>
+<p>Editor: Horace Waller</p>
+<p>Release Date: September 7, 2005  [eBook #16672]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2), 1866-1868***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>E-text prepared by Steven Gibbs<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (https://www.pgdp.net/)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+  <h2><a name="Page_-15" id="Page_-15"></a>THE LAST JOURNALS</h2>
+
+  <h3>OF</h3>
+
+  <h1>DAVID LIVINGSTONE,</h1>
+
+  <h3>IN CENTRAL AFRICA,</h3>
+
+  <h4>FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.</h4>
+
+  <h5>CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OF</h5>
+
+  <h3>HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS,</h3>
+
+  <h5>OBTAINED FROM</h5>
+
+  <h4>HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI,</h4>
+
+  <h2>BY HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,<br />
+  <span style="font-size: smaller">RECTOR OF TWYWELL,
+  NORTHAMPTON.</span></h2>
+
+  <h4>IN TWO VOLUMES.&mdash;VOL. I.<br />
+  <span style="font-size: smaller">[1866&ndash;1868]</span></h4>
+
+  <h5>WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS.</h5>
+
+  <h4>LONDON:<br />
+  JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br />
+  1874.</h4>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_-14" id="Page_-14"></a></p>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a> <img src=
+    "images/frontispiece.jpg" width="404" height="514" alt=
+    "DAVID LIVINGSTONE" title="DAVID LIVINGSTONE" /><br />
+    <b>DAVID
+    LIVINGSTONE</b>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="Page_-13" id="Page_-13"></a><a name="INTRODUCTION"
+  id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+  <p>In the midst of the universal sorrow caused by the
+  intelligence that Dr. Livingstone had lost his life at the
+  furthest point to which he had penetrated in his search for the
+  true sources of the Nile, a faint hope was indulged that some of
+  his journals might survive the disaster: this hope, I rejoice to
+  say, has been realized beyond the most sanguine expectations.</p>
+
+  <p>It is due, in the first place, to his native attendants, whose
+  faithfulness has placed his last writings at our disposal, and
+  also to the reader, before he launches forth upon a series of
+  travels and scientific geographical records of the most
+  extraordinary character, to say that in the following narrative
+  of seven years' continuous work and new discovery <i>no break
+  whatever occurs</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>We have not to deplore the loss, by accident or carelessness,
+  of a single entry, from the time of Livingstone's departure from
+  Zanzibar in the beginning of 1866 to the day when his note-book
+  dropped from his hand in the village of Ilala at the end of
+  April, 1873.</p>
+
+  <p>I trust it will not be uninteresting if I preface the history
+  with a few words on the nature of these journals and writings as
+  they have come to hand from Central Africa.</p>
+
+  <p>It will be remembered that when Mr. Stanley returned to
+  England in 1872, Dr. Livingstone entrusted to his care a very
+  large Letts' diary, sealed up and consigned to the safe keeping
+  of his daughter, Miss Agnes Livingstone. Upon the confirmation of
+  the worst news, this book was examined and found to contain a
+  considerable portion of the notes which her father made during
+  his travels previous to the time of Mr.<a name="Page_-12" id=
+  "Page_-12"></a> Stanley's meeting him.</p>
+
+  <p>The Doctor's custom was always to have metallic note-books in
+  use, in which the day's jottings were recorded. When time and
+  opportunity served, the larger volume was posted up with
+  scrupulous care.</p>
+
+  <p>It seems, however, that in the last three or four years of his
+  life this excellent rule had to give way to the toils of travel
+  and the exhaustion of most distressing illnesses. Whilst in the
+  Manyuema country he ran out of note-books, ink, and pencils, and
+  had to resort to shifts which at first made it a very debateable
+  point whether the most diligent attempt at deciphering would
+  suceeed after all. Such pocket-books as remained at this period
+  of his travels were utilized to the last inch of paper. In some
+  of them we find lunar observations, the names of rivers, and the
+  heights of hills advancing towards the middle from one end,
+  whilst from the other the itinerary grows day by day,
+  interspersed with map routes of the march, botanical notes, and
+  carefully made drawings. But in the mean time the middle portion
+  of the book was filling up with calculations, private memoranda,
+  words intended for vocabularies, and extracts from books, whilst
+  here and there the stain of a pressed flower causes
+  indistinctness; yet the thread of the narrative runs throughout.
+  Noting but his invariable habit of constantly repeating the month
+  and year obviates hopeless confusion. Nor is this all; for
+  pocket-books gave out at last, and old newspapers, yellow with
+  African damp, were sewn together, and his notes were written
+  across the type with a substitute for ink made from the juice of
+  a tree. To Miss Livingstone and to the Rev. C.A. Alington I am
+  very much indebted for help in the laborious task of deciphering
+  this portion of the Doctor's journals. Their knowledge of his
+  handwriting, their perseverance, coupled with good eyes and a
+  strong magnifying-glass, at last made their task a complete
+  success.</p>
+
+  <p>In comparing this great mass of material with the journal
+  brought<a name="Page_-11" id="Page_-11"></a> home by Mr. Stanley,
+  one finds that a great deal of most interesting matter can be
+  added. It would seem that in the hurry of writing and copying
+  despatches previous to his companion's departure, the Doctor
+  rapidly entered up as much from his note-books as time and space
+  permitted.</p>
+
+  <p>Most fortunately, he still carried the greater part of these
+  original notes till the time of his death, so that they were
+  forthcoming when his effects were subsequently saved.</p>
+
+  <p>This brings us to the second instalment of the journals, for
+  we have thus acknowledged the first to have reached us on Mr.
+  Stanley's return.</p>
+
+  <p>When the battered tin travelling-case, which was with
+  Livingstone to the last, was opened at the Foreign Office in the
+  spring of this year, not only were these valuable papers
+  disclosed which I have mentioned, but it was found also that
+  Livingstone had kept a copious journal during his stay at
+  Unyanyemb&eacute; in some copy-books, and that when his stock of
+  note-books was replenished a daily record of his subsequent
+  travels had been made.</p>
+
+  <p>It was with fear and trembling that one looked to see whether
+  all had been saved or only part, but with satisfaction and
+  thankfulness I have subsequently discovered that his men
+  preserved every single line, besides his maps, which now come to
+  light for the first time.</p>
+
+  <p>Thus much on the material of the diaries: it remains to say a
+  few words on the Map which accompanies these journals. It has
+  been compiled from Dr. Livingstone's original drawings and
+  note-books, with the corrections and additions he made from time
+  to time as the work of exploration progressed, and the details of
+  physical geography became clearer to him. The compiler, Mr. John
+  Bolton<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, <a name="Page_-10" id=
+  "Page_-10"></a>implicitly following the original outline of the
+  drawing as far as possible, has honestly endeavoured to give such
+  a rendering of the entire work, as the Doctor would have done had
+  he lived to return home, and superintend the construction; and I
+  take this opportunity of expressing my sincere gratification that
+  Mr. Bolton's rare technical skill, scientific knowledge, and
+  unwearying labour have been available for the purpose.</p>
+
+  <p>Amongst almost the last words that Livingstone wrote, I find
+  an unfinished letter to myself, in which he gives me very clear
+  and explicit directions concerning the geographical notes he had
+  previously sent home, and I am but carrying out the sacred duty
+  which is attached to a last wish when I call attention to the
+  fact, that he particularly desired in this letter that <i>no
+  positions gathered from his observations for latitude and
+  longitude, nor for the levels of the Lakes, &amp;c., should be
+  considered correct till Sir Thomas Maclear had examined them</i>.
+  The position of Casembe's town, and of a point near
+  Pambett&eacute; at the S.E., and of Lake Liemba (Tanganyika),
+  have been computed and corrected by Sir T. Maclear and Dr. Mann.
+  The observations for latitude were taken at short intervals, and
+  where it has been possible to test them they have been found very
+  correct, but I repeat that until the imprimatur of his old friend
+  at the Cape of Good Hope stands over the whole of Livingstone's
+  work, the map must be accepted as open to further
+  corrections.</p>
+
+  <p>The journey from Kabwabwata to Mparru has been inserted
+  <i>entirely</i> from notes, as the traveller was too ill to mark
+  the route: this is the only instance in all his wanderings where
+  he failed to give some indication on his map of the nature of the
+  ground over which he passed. The journey front Mikindany Bay to
+  Lake Nyassa has also been laid down from his journal and
+  latitudes in consequence of the section of this part of his route
+  (which he left at Ujiji) not having <a name="Page_-9" id=
+  "Page_-9"></a>arrived in England at this date.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2"
+  class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It will be observed that the outline of
+  Lake Nyassa differs from that on any published map: it has been
+  drawn from the original exploratory survey of its southern shores
+  made by Dr. Livingstone in 1861-3. For some reason this original
+  plan was not adhered to by a former draughtsman, but the Lake has
+  here been restored to a more accurate bearing and position.</p>
+
+  <p>How often shall we see in the pages of this concluding chapter
+  of his life, that unwavering determination which was
+  pre-eminently the great characteristic of David Livingstone!</p>
+
+  <p>Naturally endowed with unusual endurance, able to concentrate
+  faculties of no ordinary kind upon whatever he took in hand, and
+  with a dread of exaggeration which at times almost militated
+  against the importance of some of his greatest discoveries, it
+  may be doubted if ever Geographer went forth strengthened with so
+  much true power. Let us add to these a sincere trust that
+  slavery, the "great open sore of the world," as he called it,
+  might under God's good guidance receive healing at his hands; a
+  fervent hope that others would follow him after he had removed
+  those difficulties which are comprised in a profound ignorance of
+  the physical features of a new country, and we have the marching
+  orders of him who left us in August 1865 never to return
+  alive.</p>
+
+  <p>Privileged to enjoy his near personal friendship for a
+  considerable period in Africa, and also at home, it has been easy
+  to trace&mdash;more especially from correspondence with him of
+  late years&mdash;that Livingstone wanted just some such <a name=
+  "Page_-8" id="Page_-8"></a>gigantic problem as that which he
+  attacked at the last to measure his strength against: that he
+  finally overrated and overtaxed it I think all must admit.</p>
+
+  <p>He had not sufficiently allowed for an old wound which his
+  constitution received whilst battling with dysentery and fever,
+  on his celebrated journey across Africa, and this finally sapped
+  his vital powers, and, through the irritation of exhaustion,
+  insidiously clouded much of his happiness.</p>
+
+  <p>Many of his old friends were filled with anxiety when they
+  found that he intended to continue the investigation of the Nile
+  sources, for the letters sent home by Mr. Stanley raised the
+  liveliest apprehensions, which, alas! soon proved themselves well
+  grounded.</p>
+
+  <p>The reader must be warned that, however versed in books of
+  African travel he may be, the very novelty of his situation
+  amongst these pages will render him liable perhaps to a danger
+  which a timely word may avert. Truly it may be said he has an
+  <i>embarras de richesses!</i> To follow an explorer who by his
+  individual exertions has filled up a great space in the map of
+  Africa, who has not only been the first to set foot on the shores
+  of vast inland seas, but who, with the simple appliances of his
+  bodily stature for a sounding pole and his stalwart stride for a
+  measuring tape, lays down new rivers by the hundreds, is a task
+  calculated to stagger him. It may be provoking to find
+  Livingstone busily engaged in bargaining for a canoe upon the
+  shores of Bangweolo, much as he would have secured a boat on his
+  own native Clyde; but it was not in his nature to be subject to
+  those paroxysms in which travellers too often indite their
+  discoveries and descriptions.</p>
+
+  <p>At the same time these journals will be found to contain
+  innumerable notes on the habits of animals, birds, and fishes,
+  many of them probably new species, and on phenomena in every
+  direction which the keen eye searched out as the great traveller
+  moved amongst some of the grandest scenes of this beautiful
+  world: it may be doubted if ever eye <a name="Page_-7" id=
+  "Page_-7"></a>so keen was backed by so much perseverance to
+  shield it from a mere superficial habit of noticing. Let his
+  adventures speak for themselves.</p>
+
+  <p>Amongst the greatest facts recorded here the Geographer will
+  perceive that the Doctor has placed it beyond doubt that Lake
+  Nyassa belongs to a totally distinct system of waters to that
+  which holds Lake Tanganyika, and the rivers running north and
+  west. He was too sagacious to venture the surmise that Tanganyika
+  has a subterranean outlet without having duly weighed the
+  probabilities in the scale with his elaborate observations: the
+  idea gathers force when we remember that in the case of limestone
+  cliffs, water so often succeeds in breaking bounds by boring
+  through the solid rock. No more interesting problem is left to
+  solve, and we shall yet learn whether, through the caverns of
+  Western Kabogo, this Lake adds its waters to the vast northerly
+  flow of rivers we now read of for the first time, and which are
+  undoubtedly amongst the largest in the world.</p>
+
+  <p>I cannot close these remarks without stating how much obliged
+  I am to Mr. James Young, F.R.S., of Kelly, for having ensured the
+  presence of the Doctor's men, Chuma and Susi. Ever ready to serve
+  his old friend Livingstone, he took care that they should be at
+  my elbow so long as I required them to help me amidst the pile of
+  MSS. and maps. Their knowledge of the countries they travelled in
+  is most remarkable, and from constantly aiding their master by
+  putting questions to the natives respecting the course of rivers,
+  &amp;c., I found them actual geographers of no mean attainments.
+  In one instance, when in doubt concerning a particular watershed,
+  to my surprise Susi returned a few hours afterwards with a plan
+  of the whole system of rivers in the region under examination,
+  and I found his sketch tally well with the Doctor's map. Known to
+  me previously for years on the Zambesi and Shir&eacute; it was a
+  pleasure to have them with me for four months. Amongst other good
+  <a name="Page_-6" id="Page_-6"></a>services they have aided the
+  artist by reproducing the exact facsimile of the hut in which Dr.
+  Livingstone expired, besides making models of the "kitanda" on
+  which he was carried, and of the village in which his body lay
+  for fourteen days.</p>
+
+  <p>I need not add what ready and valuable assistance I have
+  derived from the Doctor's old companion Dr. Kirk wherever I have
+  found it necessary to apply to him; some of the illustrations are
+  more particularly owing to his kindness.</p>
+
+  <p>It only remains to say that it has been thought advisable to
+  retain all the strictly scientific matter found in Dr.
+  Livingstone's journals for future publication. When one sees that
+  a register of the daily rainfall was kept throughout, that the
+  temperature was continually recorded, and that barometrical and
+  hypsometrical observations were made with unflagging thoroughness
+  of purpose year in and year out, it is obvious that an
+  accumulated mass of information remains for the meteorologist to
+  deal with separately, which alone must engross many months of
+  labour.</p>
+
+  <p>A constant sense of great responsibility has been mine
+  throughout this task, for one cannot doubt that much of the
+  future welfare of distant tribes and races depends upon
+  Livingstone obtaining through these records a distinct hearing
+  for their woes, their misery, and above all for their willingness
+  to welcome men drawn towards them by motives like his.</p>
+
+  <p>At the same time memory and affection have not failed to bring
+  back vividly the man, the traveller, and the friend. May that
+  which he has said in his journals suffer neither loss of interest
+  nor depth of meaning at the compiler's hands.</p>
+
+  <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">HORACE WALLER.</span><br />
+  <br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">TWYWELL RECTORY,
+  THRAPSTON,</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>Nov. 2,
+  1874.</i></span><br /></p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Attached
+      to Mr. Stanford's staff.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> In
+      February last this section of the map (as we suppose),
+      together with some of the Doctor's papers, was sent off from
+      Ujiji by Lieutenant Cameron. Nothing, however, had arrived on
+      the 22nd September at Zanzibar, and H.M. Consul, Captain
+      Prideaux, entertained serious doubts at that time whether
+      they would ever come to hand. All Livingstone's journals were
+      saved through other instrumentality, as I have shown.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+  <p><a href="#INTRODUCTION"><b>INTRODUCTION.</b></a></p>
+
+  <p><a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</b></a></p>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the
+    sultan. Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market.
+    Preparations for starting to the interior. Embarkation in
+    H.M.S. <i>Penguin</i> and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable.
+    Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy at travelling once more. Trouble
+    with sepoys. Camels attacked by tsetse fly, and by sepoys.
+    Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies. The Makond&eacute;. Lake
+    Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Effect of <i>Pioneer's</i> former visit. The poodle
+    Chitan&eacute;. Result of tsetse bites. Death of camels and
+    buffaloes. Disaffection of followers. Disputed right of ferry.
+    Mazitu raids. An old friend. Severe privations. The River
+    Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher. Desolation. Tattooing.
+    Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death of the Nassick boy,
+    Richard. A sad reminiscence.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers.
+    Mtarika's. Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans.
+    Dismay of slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyau
+    metropolis. Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores
+    stolen cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and
+    healthiness of climate. The Waiyau people and their
+    peculiarities. Regrets at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's
+    plans.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_-4" id="Page_-4"></a><a href=
+  "#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's.
+    The Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for
+    the Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The
+    Manganja or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to
+    procure passage across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English
+    amongst slavers. Lake shore. Blue ink. Chitan&eacute; changes
+    colour. The Nsaka fish. Makalaos&eacute; drinks beer. The
+    Sanjika fish. London antiquities. Lake rivers. Mukat&eacute;'s.
+    Lake Pamalomb&eacute;. Mponda's. A slave gang. Wikatani
+    discovers his relatives and remains.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The
+    discomfited chief. Reaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge.
+    Description of Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the
+    Johanna men desert. Reaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing
+    the Doctor once more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his
+    experience of Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives.
+    Kimsusa solves the transport difficulty nobly. Another old
+    fishing acquaintance. Description of the people and country on
+    the west of the Lake. The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An
+    African Sir Colin Campbell. Milandos.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by
+    Mazitu. Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the
+    watershed between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive
+    iron-workings. An old Nimrod. The Bua River. Lovely scenery.
+    Difficulties of transport. Chilob&eacute;. An African
+    Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean.
+    Rains set in. Arrives at the Loangwa.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter.
+    Great hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of
+    goats. Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu
+    again. Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim
+    of the great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal
+    gives <a name="Page_-3" id="Page_-3"></a>out. Escape from a
+    Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambez&eacute;. Death of
+    Chitan&eacute;. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of
+    medicine chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambez&eacute;.
+    Reaches Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar.
+    Sends off letters. Chitapangwa and his people.
+    Complications.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill
+    with fever. Threatening attitude of Chibu&eacute;'s people.
+    Continued illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba.
+    Extreme beauty of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility.
+    Leaves the Lake. Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between
+    Arabs and Nsama. Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's
+    letter to principal Arab, Hamees. The war in Itawa. Geography
+    of the Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the
+    Koran. Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo, to the eastward, and
+    their chief, Mer&eacute;r&eacute;. Hamees sets out against
+    Nsama. Tedious sojourn. Departure for Ponda. Native
+    cupping.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings.
+    Curious spider. Reaches the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's.
+    Hamees marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride.
+    Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero.
+    Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders
+    on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake.
+    Information concerning the Chambez&eacute; and Luapula. Hears
+    of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe
+    apprised of Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Lakelet Mofw&eacute;. Arrives at Casembe's town.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Grand reception of the traveller. Casembe and his wife. Long
+    stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwabwata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Salleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_-2" id="Page_-2"></a><a href=
+  "#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long
+    imprisonment. Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning
+    dreams. News of Lake Chowamb&eacute;. Life of the Arab slavers.
+    The Katanga gold supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains.
+    Syde bin Habib. Birthday, 19th March, 1868. Hostility of
+    Mpw&eacute;to. Contemplates visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources.
+    Men desert. The shores of Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Return to
+    Casembe's. Obstructiveness of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of
+    Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major Monteiro. The line of Casembes.
+    Casembe explains the connection of the Lakes and the Luapula.
+    Queen Mo&auml;ri. Arab sacrifice. Kapika gets rid of his
+    wife.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER XII.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th
+    June, 1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River
+    Luongo. Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake
+    Bemba changed to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa
+    people. Kombokombo's stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers
+    Lake Bangweolo on 18th July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni.
+    Description of the Lake. Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for
+    Lifung&eacute; Island. Immense size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala
+    Island. Strange dream. Fears of canoe men. Return to shore.
+    March back. Sends letters. Meets Banyamwezi. Reviews recent
+    explorations at length. Disturbed state of country.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII.</b></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. Ill. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinn&eacute;. Notes on climate.
+    Separation of Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on
+    Victoria Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad
+    Bogharib. Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed
+    attack. A parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the
+    Imbozhwa country. Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's
+    brother. Singular custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws.
+    Rumour of Baker's Expedition. Christmas dinners.</p>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a><a name=
+  "Page_-1" id="Page_-1"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>[DR. LIVINGSTONE, though no artist, had acquired a practice
+    of making rude sketches of scenes and objects, which have
+    furnished material for the Engravers in the Illustrations for
+    this book.]</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <h4 style="text-align: left">Full-page Illustrations.</h4>
+
+  <p><a href="#frontispiece">1.</a> PORTRAIT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE.
+  (From a Photograph by ANNAN)</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#fp056">2.</a> SLAVERS REVENGING THEIR LOSSES</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#fp062">3.</a> SLAVES ABANDONED</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#fp185">4.</a> CHITAPANGWA RECEIVING DR.
+  LIVINGSTONE</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#fp206">5.</a> THE VILLAGE ON LAKE
+  LIEMBA&mdash;TANGANYIKA</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#fp232">6.</a> THE ARRIVAL OF HAMEES' BRIDE</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#fp316">7.</a> DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO</p>
+
+  <h4 style="text-align: left">Smaller Illustrations.</h4>
+
+  <p><a href="#p003">1.</a> DR. LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE, ZANZIBAR</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p012">2.</a> DHOW USED FOR TRANSPORT OF DR.
+  LIVINGSTONE'S CAMELS</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p019">3.</a> A THORN-CLIMBER</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p020">4.</a> TOMAHAWK AND AXE</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p030">5.</a> CARVED DOOR, ZANZIBAR</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p049">6.</a> TATTOO OF MATAMBW&Eacute;</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p079">7.</a> IMITATION OF BASKET-WORK IN POTTERY</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p089">8.</a> DIGGING-STICK WEIGHTED WITH ROUND
+  STONE</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p110">9.</a> MANGANJA AND MACHINGA WOMEN</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_0" id="Page_0" href="#p125">10.</a> TATOO ON
+  WOMEN</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p125">11.</a> CARVED STOOL MADE OF A SINGLE WOODEN
+  BLOCK</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p140">12.</a> WOMEN'S TEETH HOLLOWED OUT</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p146">13.</a> MODE OF FORGING HOES</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p155">14.</a> MALLET FOR SEPARATING FIBRES OF
+  BARK</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p185">15.</a> THE CHIEF CHITAPANGWA</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p186">16.</a> CHITAPANGWA'S WIVES</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p302">17.</a> FILED TEETH OF QUEEN MO&Auml;H</p>
+
+  <p><a href="#p307">18.</a> A FOREST GRAVE</p>
+
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><a name="Page_1" id=
+  "Page_1"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the
+    Sultan. Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market.
+    Preparations for starting to the interior. Embarkation in
+    H.M.S. <i>Penguin</i> and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable.
+    Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy at travelling once more. Trouble
+    with sepoys. Camels attacked by tsetse fly, and by sepoys.
+    Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies. The Makond&eacute;. Lake
+    Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>ZANZIBAR, <i>28th January, 1866.</i>&mdash;After a passage of
+  twenty-three days from Bombay we arrived at this island in the
+  <i>Thule</i>, which was one of Captain Sherard Osborne's late
+  Chinese fleet, and now a present from the Bombay Government to
+  the Sultan of Zanzibar. I was honoured with the commission to
+  make the formal presentation, and this was intended by H.E. the
+  Governor-in-Council to show in how much estimation I was held,
+  and thereby induce the Sultan to forward my enterprise. The
+  letter to his Highness was a commendatory epistle in my favour,
+  for which consideration on the part of Sir Bartle Frere I feel
+  deeply grateful. It runs as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>TO HIS HIGHNESS SEJUEL MAJID, SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR.</p>
+
+    <p>(<i>Copy.</i>)</p>
+
+    <p>"YOUR HIGHNESS,&mdash;I trust that this will find you in the
+    enjoyment of health and happiness.</p>
+
+    <p>"<a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>I have requested my
+    friend, Dr. David Livingstone, who is already personally well
+    and favourably known to your Highness, to convey to you the
+    assurance of the continual friendship and goodwill of Her
+    Majesty's Government in India.</p>
+
+    <p>"Your Highness is already aware of the benevolent objects of
+    Dr. Livingstone's life and labours, and I feel assured that
+    your Highness will continue to him the favour and protection
+    which you have already shown to him on former occasions, and
+    that your Highness will direct every aid to be given him within
+    your Highness's dominions which may tend to further the
+    philanthropic designs to which he has devoted himself, and
+    which, as your Highness is aware, are viewed with the warmest
+    interest by Her Majesty's Government both in India and
+    England.</p>
+
+    <p>"I trust your Highness will favour me with continued
+    accounts of your good health and welfare.</p>
+
+    <p>"I remain, your Highness's sincere friend,</p>
+
+    <p>(Signed) "H.B.E. FRERE.</p>
+
+    <p>"BOMBAY CASTLE, <i>2nd January, 1866.</i>"</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>When we arrived Dr. Seward, the Acting Consul, was absent at
+  the Seychelles on account of serious failure of health: Mr.
+  Schultz, however, was representing him, but he too was at the
+  time away. Dr. Seward was expected back daily, and he did arrive
+  on the 31st. I requested a private interview with the Sultan, and
+  on the following day (29th) called and told him the nature of my
+  commission to his Highness. He was very gracious, and seemed
+  pleased with the gift, as well he might, for the <i>Thule</i> is
+  fitted up in the most gorgeous manner. We asked a few days to put
+  her in perfect order, and this being the Ramad&acirc;n, or
+  fasting month, he was all the more willing to defer a visit to
+  the vessel.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>Dr. Seward arranged to have
+  an audience with the Sultan, to carry out his instructions, which
+  were to present me in a formal manner; Captain Bradshaw of the
+  <i>Wasp</i>, with Captain Leatham of the <i>Vigilant</i>, and
+  Bishop Tozer, were to accompany us in full dress, but the Sultan
+  had a toothache and gumboil, and could not receive us; he,
+  however, placed one of his houses at my disposal, and appointed a
+  man who speaks English to furnish board for my men and me, and
+  also for Captain Brebner, of the <i>Thule</i>, and his men.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p003" id="p003"></a> <img src="images/p003.jpg" width=
+    "500" height="312" alt="Livingstone's House, Zanzibar." title=
+    "Livingstone's House, Zanzibar." /><br />
+    <b>Livingstone's House,
+    Zanzibar.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>6th February, 1866.</i>&mdash;The Sultan being still unable
+  to come, partly on account of toothache and partly on account of
+  Ramad&acirc;n, he sent his commodore, Captain Abdullah, to
+  receive the <i>Thule</i>. When the English flag was hauled down
+  in the <i>Thule</i>, it went up to the mainmast of the
+  <i>Iskander Shah</i>, and was saluted by twenty-one guns; then
+  the <i>Wasp</i> saluted the Arab flag with an equal number, which
+  honour being duly acknowledged by a second royal salute from the
+  <i>Iskander Shah</i>, Captain Abdullah's frigate, the ceremony
+  ended.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>Next day, the 7th, we were
+  received by the Sultan, and through his interpreter, I told him
+  that his friend, the Governor of Bombay, had lately visited the
+  South Mahratta Princes, and had pressed on them the necessity of
+  education; the world was moving on, and those who neglected to
+  acquire knowledge would soon find that power slipped through
+  their fingers, and that the Bombay Government, in presenting his
+  Highness with a portion of steam power, showed its desire to
+  impart one of the greatest improvements of modern times, not
+  desiring to monopolize power, but hoping to lift up others with
+  themselves, and I wished him to live a hundred years and enjoy
+  all happiness. The idea was borrowed partly from Sir Bartle
+  Frere's addresses, because I thought it would have more weight if
+  he heard a little from that source than if it emanated from
+  myself. He was very anxious that Captain Brebner and his men, in
+  returning to India, should take a passage from him in the
+  <i>Nadir Shah</i>, one of his men-of-war, and though he had
+  already placed his things aboard the <i>Vigilant</i>, to proceed
+  to Seychelles, and thence to Bombay, we persuaded Captain Brebner
+  to accept his Highness's hospitality. He had evidently set his
+  heart on sending them back with suitable honours, and an hour
+  after consent was given to go by the <i>Nadir Shah</i>, he signed
+  an order for the money to fit her out.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th February, 1866.</i>&mdash;One of the foremost subjects
+  that naturally occupied my mind here was the sad loss of the
+  Baron van der Decken, on the River Juba, or Aljib. The first
+  intimation of the unfortunate termination of his explorations was
+  the appearance of Lieutenant von Schich at this place, who had
+  left without knowing whether his leader were dead or alive, but
+  an attack had been made on the encampment which had been planned
+  after the steamer struck the rocks and filled, and two of the
+  Europeans were killed. The attacking party came from the
+  direction in which the Baron and Dr. Link went, and three men of
+  note <a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>in it were slain. Von
+  Schich went back from Zanzibar to Brava to ascertain the fate of
+  the Baron, and meanwhile several native sailors from Zanzibar had
+  been allowed to escape from the scene of confusion to Brava.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th February, 1866.</i>&mdash;All the Europeans went to
+  pay visits of congratulation to his Highness the Sultan upon the
+  conclusion of the Ramad&acirc;n, when sweetmeats were placed
+  before us. He desired me to thank the Governor of Bombay for his
+  magnificent gift, and to state that although he would like to
+  have me always with him, yet he would show me the same favour in
+  Africa which he had done here: he added that the <i>Thule</i> was
+  at my service to take me to the Rovuma whenever I wished to
+  leave. I replied that nothing had been wanting on his part; he
+  had done more than I expected, and I was sure that his Excellency
+  the Governor would be delighted to hear that the vessel promoted
+  his health and prosperity; nothing would delight him more than
+  this. He said that he meant to go out in her on Wednesday next
+  (20th): Bishop Tozer, Captain Fraser, Dr. Steere, and all the
+  English were present. The sepoys came in and did obeisance; and I
+  pointed out the Nassick lads as those who had been rescued from
+  slavery, educated, and sent back to their own country by the
+  Governor. Surely he must see that some people in the world act
+  from other than selfish motives.</p>
+
+  <p>In the afternoon Sheikh Sulieman, his secretary, came with a
+  letter for the Governor, to be conveyed by Lieutenant Brebner,
+  I.N., in the <i>Nadir Shah</i>, which is to sail to-morrow. He
+  offered money to the lieutenant, but this could not be heard of
+  for a moment.</p>
+
+  <p>The translation of the letter is as follows, and is an answer
+  to that which I brought.<a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a></p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY.</p>
+
+    <p>[After compliments.]</p>
+
+    <p>"... The end of my desire is to know ever that your
+    Excellency's health is good. As for me&mdash;your
+    friend&mdash;I am very well.</p>
+
+    <p>"Your honoured letter borne by Dr. Livingstone duly reached
+    me, and all that you said about him I understood.</p>
+
+    <p>"I will show him respect, give him honour, and help him in
+    all his affairs; and that I have already done this, I trust he
+    will tell you.</p>
+
+    <p>"I hope you will let me rest in your heart, and that you
+    will send me many letters.</p>
+
+    <p>"If you need anything I shall be glad, and will give it.</p>
+
+    <p>"Your sincere friend,</p>
+
+    <p>"MAJID BIN SAID.</p>
+
+    <p>"Dated 2nd Shaul, 1282 (18th February, 1866)."</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>2nd March, 1866.</i>&mdash;A northern dhow came in with
+  slaves; when this was reported to the Sultan he ordered it to be
+  burned, and we saw this done from the window of the Consulate;
+  but he has very little power over Northern Arabs. He has shown a
+  little vigour of late. He wished to raise a revenue by a charge
+  of 10 per cent. on all articles brought into town for sale, but
+  this is clearly contrary to treaty, which provides that no
+  monopoly shall be permitted, and no dues save that of 5 per cent.
+  import duty. The French Consul bullies him: indeed the French
+  system of dealing with the natives is well expressed by that
+  word; no wonder they cannot gain influence among them: the
+  greatest power they exercise is by lending their flag to slaving
+  dhows, so that it covers that nefarious traffic.</p>
+
+  <p>The stench arising from a mile and a half or two square miles
+  of exposed sea beach, which is the general depository of the
+  filth of the town, is quite horrible. At night it is <a name=
+  "Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>so gross or crass one might cut out a
+  slice and manure a garden with it: it might be called Stinkibar
+  rather than Zanzibar. No one can long enjoy good health here.</p>
+
+  <p>On visiting the slave-market I found about 300 slaves exposed
+  for sale, the greater part of whom came from Lake Nyassa and the
+  Shir&eacute; River; I am so familiar with the peculiar faces and
+  markings or tattooings, that I expect them to recognize me.
+  Indeed one woman said that she had heard of our passing up Lake
+  Nyassa in a boat, but she did not see me: others came from
+  Chip&eacute;ta, S.W. of the Lake. All who have grown up seem
+  ashamed at being hawked about for sale. The teeth are examined,
+  the cloth lifted up to examine the lower limbs, and a stick is
+  thrown for the slave to bring, and thus exhibit his paces. Some
+  are dragged through the crowd by the hand, and the price called
+  out incessantly: most of the purchasers were Northern Arabs and
+  Persians. This is the period when the Sultan's people may not
+  carry slaves coastwise; but they simply cannot, for the wind is
+  against them. Many of the dhows leave for Madagascar, and thence
+  come back to complete their cargoes.</p>
+
+  <p>The Arabs are said to treat their slaves kindly, and this also
+  may be said of native masters; the reason is, master and slave
+  partake of the general indolence, but the lot of the slave does
+  not improve with the general progress in civilization. While no
+  great disparity of rank exists, his energies are little tasked,
+  but when society advances, wants multiply; and to supply these
+  the slave's lot grows harder. The distance between master and man
+  increases as the lust of gain is developed, hence we can hope for
+  no improvement in the slave's condition, unless the master
+  returns to or remains in barbarism.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;Rains have begun now that the
+  sun is overhead. We expect the <i>Penguin</i> daily to come from
+  Johanna, and take us to the Rovuma. It is an unwholesome place;
+  <a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>six of my men have fever; few
+  retain health long, and considering the lowness of the island,
+  and the absence of sanitary regulations in the town, it is not to
+  be wondered at. The Sultan has little power, being only the
+  successor to the captain of the horde of Arabs who came down and
+  overran the island and maritime coasts of the adjacent continent.
+  He is called only Said or Syed, never Sultan; and they can boast
+  of choosing a new one if he does not suit them. Some coins were
+  found in digging here which have Cufic inscriptions, and are
+  about 900 years old. The island is low; the highest parts may not
+  be more than 150 feet above the sea; it is of a coral formation,
+  with sandstone conglomerate. Most of the plants are African, but
+  clove-trees, mangoes, and cocoa-nut groves give a luxuriant South
+  Sea Island look to the whole scenery.</p>
+
+  <p>We visited an old man to-day, the richest in Zanzibar, who is
+  to give me letters to his friends at Tanganyika, and I am trying
+  to get a dep&ocirc;t of goods for provisions formed there, so
+  that when I reach it I may not be destitute.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;I have arranged with Koorje, a
+  Banian, who farms the custom-house revenue here, to send a supply
+  of beads, cloth, flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on Lake
+  Tanganyika. The Arab there, with whom one of Koorje's people will
+  remain in charge of the goods, is called Thani bin Suelim.</p>
+
+  <p>Yesterday we went to take leave of the Sultan, and to thank
+  him for all his kindness to me and my men, which has indeed been
+  very great. He offered me men to go with me, and another letter
+  if I wished it. He looks very ill.</p>
+
+  <p>I have received very great kindness during my stay from Dr.
+  and Mrs. Seward. They have done everything for me in their power:
+  may God Almighty return it all abundantly into their bosoms, in
+  the way that He best can. Dr. Seward's views of the policy
+  pursued here I have no doubt <a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>are
+  the right ones; in fact, the only ones which can be looked back
+  to with satisfaction, or that have probability of success among a
+  race of Pariah Arabs.</p>
+
+  <p>The <i>Penguin</i> came a few days ago, and Lieutenant
+  Garforth in command agrees to take me down to the Rovuma River,
+  and land me there. I have a dhow to take my animals: six camels,
+  three buffaloes, and a calf, two mules, and four donkeys. I have
+  thirteen Sepoys, ten Johanna men, nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga
+  men, and two Wayaus, Wekatani and Chuma.<a name="FNanchor_3_3"
+  id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class=
+  "fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+  <p>[It may be well to point out that several of these men had
+  previously been employed by Dr. Livingstone on the Zambesi and
+  Shir&eacute;; thus Musa, the Johanna man, was a sailor on the
+  <i>Lady Nyassa</i>, whilst Susi and Amoda were engaged at
+  Shupanga to cut wood for the <i>Pioneer</i>. The two Waiyau lads,
+  Wakatani and Chuma, were liberated from the slavers by the Doctor
+  and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861, and lived for three years with the
+  Mission party at Chibisa's before they were engaged by
+  Livingstone. The Nassick lads were entire strangers, and were
+  trained in India.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;We start this morning at 10
+  A.M. I trust that the Most High may prosper me in this work,
+  granting me influence in the eyes of the heathen, and helping me
+  to make my intercourse beneficial to them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd March, 1866.</i>&mdash;We reached Rovuma Bay to-day,
+  and anchored about two miles from the mouth of the river, in five
+  fathoms. I went up the left bank to see if the gullies which
+  formerly ran into the bay had altered, so as to allow camels to
+  cross them: they seemed to have become <a name="Page_10" id=
+  "Page_10"></a>shallower. There was no wind for the dhow, and as
+  for the man-of-war towing her, it was out of the question. On the
+  23rd the cutter did try to tow the dhow, but without success, as
+  a strong tide runs constantly out of the river at this season. A
+  squall came up from the S.E., which would have taken the dhow in,
+  but the master was on board the <i>Penguin</i>, and said he had
+  no large sail. I got him off to his vessel, but the wind died
+  away before we could reach the mouth of the river.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;I went to the dhow, and there
+  being no wind I left orders with the captain to go up the right
+  bank should a breeze arise. Mr. Fane, midshipman, accompanied me
+  up the left bank above, to see if we could lead the camels along
+  in the water. Near the point where the river first makes a little
+  bend to the north, we landed and found three formidable gullies,
+  and jungle so thick with bush, date-palms, twining bamboo, and
+  hooked thorns, that one could scarcely get along. Further inland
+  it was sticky mud, thickly planted over with mangrove roots and
+  gullies in whose soft banks one sank over the ankles. No camels
+  could have moved, and men with extreme difficulty might struggle
+  through; but we never could have made an available road. We came
+  to a she-hippopotamus lying in a ditch, which did not cover her;
+  Mr. Fane fired into her head, and she was so upset that she
+  nearly fell backward in plunging up the opposite bank: her calf
+  was killed, and was like sucking-pig, though in appearance as
+  large as a full-grown sow.</p>
+
+  <p>We now saw that the dhow had a good breeze, and she came up
+  along the right bank and grounded at least a mile from the spot
+  where the mangroves ceased. The hills, about two hundred feet
+  high, begin about two or three miles above that, and they looked
+  invitingly green and cool. My companion and I went from the dhow
+  inland, to see if the mangroves gave way, to a more walkable
+  country, but the swamp covered over thickly with mangroves only
+  became worse the <a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>farther we
+  receded from the river. The whole is flooded at high tides, and
+  had we landed all the men we should have been laid up with fever
+  ere we could have attained the higher land, which on the right
+  bank bounds the line of vision, and the first part of which lies
+  so near. I thought I had better land on the sand belt on the left
+  of Rovuma Bay, and then explore and get information from the
+  natives, none of whom had as yet come near us, so I ordered the
+  dhow to come down to the spot next day, and went on board the
+  <i>Penguin</i>. Lieutenant Garforth was excessively kind, and
+  though this is his best time for cruising in the North, he most
+  patiently agreed to wait and help me to land.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;During the night it occurred to
+  me that we should be in a mess if after exploration and
+  information from the natives we could find no path, and when I
+  mentioned this, Lieutenant Garforth suggested that we should
+  proceed to Kilwa, so at 5 A.M. I went up to the dhow with Mr.
+  Fane, and told the captain that we were going there. He was loud
+  in his protestations against this, and strongly recommended the
+  port of Mikindany, as quite near to Rovuma, Nyassa, and the
+  country I wished to visit, besides being a good landing-place,
+  and the finest port on the coast. Thither we went, and on the
+  same evening landed all our animals in Mikindany bay, which lies
+  only twenty-five miles N. of Rovuma. The <i>Penguin</i> then
+  left.</p>
+
+  <p>The Rovuma is quite altered from what it was when first we
+  visited it. It is probable that the freshets form banks inside
+  the mouth, which are washed out into the deep bay, and this
+  periodical formation probably has prevented the Arabs from using
+  the Rovuma as a port of shipment. It is not likely that Mr.
+  May<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> would have made a
+  mistake if the middle were as shoal as now: he found soundings of
+  three fathoms or more.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p012" id="p012"></a> <img src="images/p012.jpg" width=
+    "400" height="450" alt=
+    "Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels." title=
+    "Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels." /><br />
+    <b>Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a><i>25th March,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;I hired a house for four dollars a month and
+  landed all our goods from the dhow. The bay gives off a narrow
+  channel, about 500 yards wide and 200 yards long, the middle is
+  deep, but the sides are coral reefs and shoal: the deep part
+  seems about 100 yards wide. Outside in the Bay of Mikindany there
+  is no anchorage except on the edge of the reef where the
+  <i>Penguin</i> got seven fathoms, but further in it was only two
+  fathoms. The inner bay is called Pemba, not Pimlea, as
+  erroneously printed in the charts of Owen. It <a name="Page_13"
+  id="Page_13"></a>is deep and quite sheltered; another of a
+  similar round form lies somewhat to the south: this bay may be
+  two miles square.</p>
+
+  <p>The cattle are all very much the worse for being knocked about
+  in the dhow. We began to prepare saddles of a very strong tree
+  called Ntibw&eacute;, which is also used for making the hooked
+  spear with which hippopotami are killed&mdash;the hook is very
+  strong and tough; I applied also for twenty carriers and a Banian
+  engaged to get them as soon as possible. The people have no
+  cattle here, they are half-caste Arabs mostly, and quite civil to
+  us.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;A few of the Nassick boys have
+  the slave spirit pretty strongly; it goes deepest in those who
+  have the darkest skins. Two Gallah men are the most intelligent
+  and hardworking among them; some look on work with indifference
+  when others are the actors.</p>
+
+  <p>Now that I am on the point of starting on another trip into
+  Africa I feel quite exhilarated: when one travels with the
+  specific object in view of ameliorating the condition of the
+  natives every act becomes ennobled.</p>
+
+  <p>Whether exchanging the customary civilities, or arriving at a
+  village, accepting a night's lodging, purchasing food for the
+  party, asking for information, or answering polite African
+  enquiries as to our objects in travelling, we begin to spread a
+  knowledge of that people by whose agency their land will yet
+  become enlightened and freed from the slave-trade.</p>
+
+  <p>The mere animal pleasure of travelling in a wild unexplored
+  country is very great. When on lands of a couple of thousand feet
+  elevation, brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles,
+  fresh and healthy blood circulates through the brain, the mind
+  works well, the eye is clear, the step is firm, and a day's
+  exertion always makes the evening's repose thoroughly
+  enjoyable.</p>
+
+  <p>We have usually the stimulus of remote chances of <a name=
+  "Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>danger either from beasts or men. Our
+  sympathies are drawn out towards our humble hardy companions by a
+  community of interests, and, it may be, of perils, which make us
+  all friends. Nothing but the most pitiable puerility would lead
+  any manly heart to make their inferiority a theme for
+  self-exaltation; however, that is often done, as if with the
+  vague idea that we can, by magnifying their deficiencies,
+  demonstrate our immaculate perfections.</p>
+
+  <p>The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right
+  place is that the mind is made more self-reliant: it becomes more
+  confident of its own resources&mdash;there is greater presence of
+  mind. The body is soon well-knit; the muscles of the limbs grow
+  as hard as a board, and seem to have no fat; the countenance is
+  bronzed, and there is no dyspepsia. Africa is a most wonderful
+  country for appetite, and it is only when one gloats over marrow
+  bones or elephant's feet that indigestion is possible. No doubt
+  much toil is involved, and fatigue of which travellers in the
+  more temperate climes can form but a faint conception; but the
+  sweat of one's brow is no longer a curse when one works for God:
+  it proves a tonic to the system, and is actually a blessing. No
+  one can truly appreciate the charm of repose unless he has
+  undergone severe exertion.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;The point of land which on the
+  north side of the entrance to the harbour narrows it to about 300
+  yards is alone called Pemba; the other parts have different
+  names. Looking northwards from the point, the first hundred yards
+  has ninety square houses of wattled daub; a ruin (a mosque) has
+  been built of lime and coral. The whole point is coral, and the
+  soil is red, and covered over with dense tropical vegetation, in
+  which the baobab is conspicuous. Dhows at present come in with
+  ease by the easterly wind which blows in the evening, and leave
+  next morning, the land wind taking them out.</p>
+
+  <p>While the camels and other animals are getting over <a name=
+  "Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>their fatigues and bad bruises, we are
+  making camels' saddles, and repairing those of the mules and
+  buffaloes. Oysters abound on all the rocks and on the trees over
+  which the tide flows: they are small, but much relished by the
+  people.</p>
+
+  <p>The Arabs here are a wretched lot physically&mdash;thin,
+  washed-out creatures&mdash;many with bleared eyes.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29-30th March, 1866.</i>&mdash;- This harbour has somewhat
+  the shape of a bent bow or the spade on a playing-card, the shaft
+  of the arrow being the entrance in; the passage is very deep, but
+  not more than 100 yards wide, and it goes in nearly S.W.; inside
+  it is deep and quite secure, and protected from all winds. The
+  lands westward rise at once to about 200 feet, and John, a hill,
+  is the landmark by which it is best known in coming along the
+  coast&mdash;so say the Arabs. The people have no cattle, but say
+  there are no tsetse flies: they have not been long here,
+  <i>i.e.</i> under the present system; but a ruin on the northern
+  peninsula or face of the entrance, built of stone and
+  lime&mdash;Arab-fashion, and others on the north-west, show that
+  the place has been known and used of old. The adjacent country
+  has large game at different water pools, and as the whole country
+  is somewhat elevated it probably is healthy. There is very little
+  mangrove, but another enclosed piece of water to the south of
+  this probably has more. The language of the people here is
+  Swaheli; they trade a little in gum-copal and Orchilla weed. An
+  agent of the Zanzibar custom-house presides over the customs,
+  which are very small, and a jemidar acknowledging the Sultan is
+  the chief authority; but the people are little superior to the
+  natives whom they have displaced. The jemidar has been very civil
+  to me, and gives me two guides to go on to Adond&eacute;, but no
+  carriers can be hired. Water is found in wells in the coral rock
+  which underlies the whole place.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;When about to start from Pemba,
+  at the entrance to the other side of the bay one of our buffaloes
+  <a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>gored a donkey so badly that
+  he had to be shot: we cut off the tips of the offender's horns,
+  on the principle of "locking the stable-door when the steed is
+  stolen," and marched. We came to level spots devoid of
+  vegetation, and hard on the surface, but a deposit of water below
+  allowed the camels to sink up to their bodies through the crust.
+  Hauling them out, we got along to the jemidar's house, which is
+  built of coral and lime. Hamesh was profuse in his professions of
+  desire to serve, but gave a shabby hut which let in rain and
+  wind. I slept one night in it, and it was unbearable, so I asked
+  the jemidar to allow me to sleep in his court-room, where many of
+  the sepoys were: he consented, but when I went refused; then,
+  being an excitable, nervous Arab, he took fright, mustered all
+  his men, amounting to about fifteen, with matchlocks; ran off,
+  saying he was going to kill a lion; came back, shook hands
+  nervously with me, vowing it was a man who would not obey him,
+  "it was not you."</p>
+
+  <p>Our goods were all out in the street, bound on the
+  pack-saddles, so at night we took the ordinary precaution of
+  setting a guard. This excited our dignitary, and after dark all
+  his men were again mustered with matches lighted. I took no
+  notice of him, and after he had spent a good deal of talk, which
+  we could hear, he called Musa and asked what I meant. The
+  explanations of Musa had the effect of sending him to bed, and in
+  the morning, when I learned how much I had most unintentionally
+  disturbed him, I told him that I was sorry, but it did not occur
+  to me to tell him about an ordinary precaution against thieves.
+  He thought he had given me a crushing reply when he said with
+  vehemence, "But there are no thieves here." I did not know till
+  afterwards that he and others had done me an ill turn in saying
+  that no carriers could be hired from the independent tribes
+  adjacent. They are low-coast Arabs, three-quarters African, and,
+  as usual, possess the bad without the good qualities of both
+  parents. Many of them came and begged brandy, <a name="Page_17"
+  id="Page_17"></a>and laughed when they remarked that they could
+  drink it in secret but not openly; they have not, however,
+  introduced it as an article of trade, as we Christians have done
+  on the West Coast.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;We made a short march round to
+  the south-west side of the Lake, and spent the night at a village
+  in that direction. There are six villages dotted round the inner
+  harbour, and the population may amount to 250 or 300
+  souls&mdash;coast Arabs and their slaves; the southern portion of
+  the harbour is deep, from ten to fourteen fathoms, but the
+  north-western part is shoal and rocky. Very little is done in the
+  way of trade; some sorghum, sem-sem seed, gum-copal, and orchilla
+  weed, constitute the commerce of the port: I saw two Banian
+  traders settled here.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;Went about south from Kindany
+  with a Somalie guide, named Ben Ali or Bon Ali, a good-looking
+  obliging man, who was to get twenty dollars to take us up to
+  Ngomano. Our path lay in a valley, with well-wooded heights on
+  each side, but the grass towered over our heads, and gave the
+  sensation of smothering, whilst the sun beat down on our heads
+  very fiercely, and there was not a breath of air stirring. Not
+  understanding camels, I had to trust to the sepoys who overloaded
+  them, and before we had accomplished our march of about seven
+  miles they were knocked up.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;We spent the Sunday at a village
+  called Nya&ntilde;gedi. Here on the evening of the 7th April our
+  buffaloes and camels were first bitten by the tsetse fly.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5"
+  class="fnanchor">[5]</a> We had passed through some pieces of
+  dense jungle which, though they offered no obstruction to
+  foot-passengers, but rather an agreeable shade, had to be cut for
+  the tall camels, <a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>and
+  fortunately we found the Makond&eacute; of this village glad to
+  engage themselves by the day either as woodcutters or carriers.
+  We had left many things with the jemidar from an idea that no
+  carriers could be procured. I lightened the camels, and had a
+  party of woodcutters to heighten and widen the path in the dense
+  jungle into which we now penetrated. Every now and then we
+  emerged on open spaces, where the Makond&eacute; have cleared
+  gardens for sorghum, maize, and cassava. The people were very
+  much more taken up with the camels and buffaloes than with me.
+  They are all independent of each other, and no paramount chief
+  exists. Their foreheads may be called compact, narrow, and rather
+  low; the <i>alae nasi</i> expanded laterally; lips full, not
+  excessively thick; limbs and body well formed; hands and feet
+  small; colour dark and light-brown; height middle size, and
+  bearing independent.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;We reached a village called
+  Narri, lat. 10&deg; 23' 14" S. Many of the men had touches of
+  fever. I gave medicine to eleven of them, and next morning all
+  were better. Food is abundant and cheap. Our course is nearly
+  south, and in "wadys," from which, following the trade-road, we
+  often ascend the heights, and then from the villages, which are
+  on the higher land, we descend to another on the same wady. No
+  running water is seen; the people depend on wells for a
+  supply.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;At Tandahara we were still
+  ascending as we went south; the soil is very fertile, with a good
+  admixture of sand in it, but no rocks are visible. Very heavy
+  crops of maize and sorghum are raised, and the cassava bushes are
+  seven feet in height. The bamboos are cleared off them, spread
+  over the space to be cultivated and burned to serve as manure.
+  Iron is very scarce, for many of the men appear with wooden
+  spears; they find none here, but in some spots where an ooze
+  issued from the soil iron rust appeared. At each of the villages
+  where we spent a night we presented a <a name="Page_19" id=
+  "Page_19"></a>fathom of calico, and the headman always gave a
+  fowl or two, and a basket of rice or maize. The Makond&eacute;
+  dialect is quite different from Swaheli, but from their
+  intercourse with the coast Arabs many of the people here have
+  acquired a knowledge of Swaheli.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 199px;">
+    <a name="p019" id="p019"></a> <img src="images/p019.png" width=
+    "199" height="166" alt="A Thorn-climber." title=
+    "A Thorn-climber." /> <b>A Thorn-climber.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>12th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;On starting we found the jungle
+  so dense that the people thought "there was no cutting it:" it
+  continued upwards of three miles. The trees are not large, but so
+  closely planted together that a great deal of labour was required
+  to widen and heighten the path: where bamboos prevail they have
+  starved out the woody trees. The reason why the trees are not
+  large is because all the spaces we passed over were formerly
+  garden ground before the Makond&eacute; had been thinned by the
+  slave-trade. As soon as a garden is deserted, a thick crop of
+  trees of the same sorts as those formerly cut down springs up,
+  and here the process of woody trees starving out their fellows,
+  and occupying the land without dense scrub below, has not had
+  time to work itself out. Many are mere poles, and so intertwined
+  with climbers as to present the appearance of a ship's ropes and
+  cables shaken in among them, and many have woody stems as thick
+  as an eleven-inch hawser. One species may be likened to the
+  scabbard of a dragoon's sword, but along the middle of the flat
+  side runs a ridge, from which springs up every few inches a bunch
+  of inch-long straight sharp thorns. It hangs straight for a
+  couple of yards, but as if it could not give its thorns a fair
+  chance of mischief, it suddenly bends on itself, and all its
+  cruel points are now at right angles to what they were before.
+  Darwin's observation shows a great deal of what looks like
+  instinct in these <a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>climbers.
+  This species seems to be eager for mischief; its tangled limbs
+  hang out ready to inflict injury on all passers-by. Another
+  climber is so tough it is not to be broken by the fingers;
+  another appears at its root as a young tree, but it has the
+  straggling habits of its class, as may be seen by its cords
+  stretched some fifty or sixty feet off; it is often two inches in
+  diameter; you cut it through at one part and find it reappear
+  forty yards off.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+    <a name="p020" id="p020"></a> <img src="images/p020.png" width=
+    "200" height="178" alt="Tomahawk and Axe." title=
+    "Tomahawk and Axe." /> <b>Tomahawk and Axe.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Another climber is like the leaf of an aloe, but convoluted as
+  strangely as shavings from the plane of a carpenter. It is dark
+  green in colour, and when its bark is taken off it is beautifully
+  striated beneath, lighter and darker green, like the rings of
+  growth on wood; still another is a thin string with a succession
+  of large knobs, and another has its bark pinched up all round at
+  intervals so as to present a great many cutting edges. One sort
+  need scarcely be mentioned, in which all along its length are
+  strong bent hooks, placed in a way that will hold one if it can
+  but grapple with him, for that is very common and not like those
+  mentioned, which the rather seem to be stragglers from the
+  carboniferous period of geologists, when Pachydermata wriggled
+  unscathed among tangled masses worse than these. We employed
+  about ten jolly young Makond&eacute; to deal with these
+  prehistoric plants in their own way, for they are accustomed to
+  clearing spaces for gardens, and went at the work with a will,
+  using tomahawks well adapted for the work. They whittled away
+  right manfully, taking an axe when any trees had to be cut. Their
+  pay, arranged beforehand, was to be one yard of calico per day:
+  this is not much, seeing we are still so near the sea-coast.
+  Climbers and young trees melted before them like a cloud before
+  the sun! Many more would have worked than we employed, but we
+  used the precaution of taking <a name="Page_21" id=
+  "Page_21"></a>the names of those engaged. The tall men became
+  exhausted soonest, while the shorter men worked vigorously
+  still&mdash;but a couple of days' hard work seemed to tell on the
+  best of them. It is doubtful if any but meat-eating people can
+  stand long-continued labour without exhaustion: the Chinese may
+  be an exception. When French navvies were first employed they
+  could not do a tithe of the work of our English ones; but when
+  the French were fed in the same style as the English, they
+  performed equally well. Here the Makond&eacute; have rarely the
+  chance of a good feed of meat: it is only when one of them is
+  fortunate enough to spear a wild hog or an antelope that they
+  know this luxury; if a fowl is eaten they get but a taste of it
+  with their porridge.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;We now began to descend the
+  northern slope down to the Rovuma, and a glimpse could
+  occasionally be had of the country; it seemed covered with great
+  masses of dark green forest, but the undulations occasionally
+  looked like hills, and here and there a Sterculia had put on
+  yellow foliage in anticipation of the coming winter. More
+  frequently our vision was circumscribed to a few yards till our
+  merry woodcutters made for us the pleasant scene of a long vista
+  fit for camels to pass: as a whole, the jungle would have made
+  the authors of the natty little hints to travellers smile at
+  their own productions, good enough, perhaps, where one has an
+  open country with trees and hills; by which to take bearings,
+  estimate distances, see that one point is on the same latitude,
+  another on the same longitude with such another, and all to be
+  laid down fair and square with protractor and compass, but so
+  long as we remained within the vegetation, that is fed by the
+  moisture from the Indian Ocean, the steamy, smothering air, and
+  dank, rank, luxuriant vegetation made me feel, like it,
+  struggling for existence,&mdash;and no more capable of taking
+  bearings than if I had been in a hogshead and observing through
+  the bunghole!</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>An old Monyi&ntilde;ko
+  headman presented a goat and asked if the sepoys wished to cut
+  its throat: the Johannees, being of a different sect of
+  Mahometans, wanted to cut it in some other way than their Indian
+  co-religionists: then ensued a fierce dispute as to who was of
+  the right sort of Moslem! It was interesting to see that not
+  Christians alone, but other nations feel keenly on religious
+  subjects.</p>
+
+  <p>I saw rocks of grey sandstone (like that which overlies coal)
+  and the Rovuma in the distance. Didi is the name of a village
+  whose headsman, Chombok&euml;a, is said to be a doctor; all the
+  headmen pretend or are really doctors; however one, Fundindomba,
+  came after me for medicine for himself.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;To-day we succeeded in reaching
+  the Rovuma, where some very red cliffs appear on the opposite
+  heights, and close by where it is marked on the map that the
+  <i>Pioneer</i> turned back in 1861. Here we rested on Sunday
+  15th.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;Our course now lay westwards,
+  along the side of that ragged outline of table-land, which we had
+  formerly seen from the river as flanking both sides. There it
+  appeared a range of hills shutting in Rovuma, here we had spurs
+  jutting out towards the river, and valleys retiring from a mile
+  to three miles inland. Sometimes we wended our way round them,
+  sometimes rose over and descended their western sides, and then a
+  great deal of wood-cutting was required. The path is not
+  straight, but from one village to another. We came perpetually on
+  gardens, and remarked that rice was sown among the other grain;
+  there must be a good deal of moisture at other times to admit of
+  this succeeding: at present the crops were suffering for want of
+  rain. We could purchase plenty of rice for the sepoys, and well
+  it was so, for the supply which was to last till we arrived at
+  Ngomano was finished on the 13th. An old doctor, with our food
+  awaiting, presented me with two large bags of rice and his wife
+  husked it for us.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a><i>17th April,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;I had to leave the camels in the hands of the
+  sepoys: I ordered them to bring as little luggage as possible,
+  and the Havildar assured me that two buffaloes were amply
+  sufficient to carry all they would bring. I now find that they
+  have more than full loads for two buffaloes, two mules, and two
+  donkeys; but when these animals fall down under them, they assure
+  me with so much positiveness that they are not overloaded, that I
+  have to be silent, or only, as I have several times done before,
+  express the opinion that they will kill these animals. This
+  observation on my part leads them to hide their things in the
+  packs of the camels, which also are over-burdened. I fear that my
+  experiment with the tsetse will be vitiated, but no symptoms yet
+  occur in any of the camels except weariness.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6"
+  class="fnanchor">[6]</a> The sun is very sharp; it scorches.
+  Nearly all the sepoys had fever, but it is easily cured; they
+  never required to stop marching, and we cannot make over four or
+  five miles a day, which movement aids in the cure. In all cases
+  of fever removal from the spot of attack should be made: after
+  the fever among the sepoys, the Nassick boys took their turn
+  along with the Johannees.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;Ben Ali misled us away up to
+  the north in spite of my protest, when we turned in that
+  direction; he declared that was the proper path. We had much
+  wood-cutting, and found that our course that day and next was to
+  enable him to visit and return from one of his wives&mdash;a
+  comely Makond&eacute; woman! He brought her to call on me, and I
+  had to be polite to the lady, though we lost a day by the zigzag.
+  This is one way by which the Arabs gain influence; a great many
+  very light-coloured people are strewed among the Makond&eacute;,
+  but only one of these had the Arab <a name="Page_24" id=
+  "Page_24"></a>hair. On asking Ali whether any attempts had been
+  made by Arabs to convert those with whom they enter into such
+  intimate relationships, he replied that the Makond&eacute; had no
+  idea of a Deity&mdash;no one could teach them, though
+  Makond&eacute; slaves when taken to the coast and elsewhere were
+  made Mahometans. Since the slave-trade was introduced this tribe
+  has much diminished in numbers, and one village makes war upon
+  another and kidnaps, but no religious teaching has been
+  attempted. The Arabs come down to the native ways, and make no
+  efforts to raise the natives to theirs; it is better that it is
+  so, for the coast Arab's manners and morals would be no
+  improvement on the pagan African!</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;We were led up over a hill
+  again, and on to the level of the plateau (where the evaporation
+  is greater than in the valley), and tasted water of an agreeable
+  coldness for the first time this journey. The people, especially
+  the women, are very rude, and the men very eager to be employed
+  as woodcutters. Very merry they are at it, and every now and then
+  one raises a cheerful shout, in which all join. I suppose they
+  are urged on by a desire to please their wives with a little
+  clothing. The higher up the Rovuma we ascend the people are more
+  and more tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body. The
+  teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by the
+  women; some few Mabeha men from the south side of the river have
+  lip-rings too.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;A Johanna man allowed the
+  camels to trespass and destroy a man's tobacco patch: the owner
+  would not allow us after this to pass through his rice-field, in
+  which the route lay. I examined the damage, and made the Johanna
+  man pay a yard of calico for it, which set matters all right.</p>
+
+  <p>Tsetse are biting the buffaloes again. Elephants, hippopotami,
+  and pigs are the only game here, but we see none: <a name=
+  "Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>the tsetse feed on them. In the low
+  meadow land, from one to three miles broad, which lies along both
+  banks, we have brackish pools, and one, a large one, which we
+  passed, called Wrongw&eacute;, had much fish, and salt is got
+  from it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st April, 1866.</i>&mdash;After a great deal of cutting
+  we reached the valley of Mehambw&eacute; to spend Sunday, all
+  glad that it had come round again. Here some men came to our camp
+  from Ndond&eacute;, who report that an invasion of Mazitu had
+  three months ago swept away all the food out of the country, and
+  they are now obliged to send in every direction for provisions.
+  When saluting, they catch each other's hands and say, "Ai! Ai!"
+  but the general mode (introduced, probably by the Arabs) is to
+  take hold of the right hand, and say, "Marhaba" (welcome).</p>
+
+  <p>A wall-eyed ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on the
+  attack on our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom I gave
+  cloth to prevent a collision, came about us disguised in a
+  jacket. I knew him well, but said nothing to him.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7"
+  class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd April, 1866.</i>&mdash;When we marched this morning we
+  passed the spot where an animal had been burned in the fire, and
+  on enquiry I found that it is the custom when a leopard is killed
+  to take off the skin and consume the carcase thus, because the
+  Makond&eacute; do not eat it. The reason they gave for not eating
+  flesh which is freely eaten by other tribes, is that the leopard
+  devours men; this shows the opposite of an inclination to
+  cannibalism.</p>
+
+  <p>All the rocks we had seen showed that the plateau consists of
+  grey sandstone, capped by a ferruginous sandy conglomerate. We
+  now came to blocks of silicified wood lying on the surface; it is
+  so like recent wood, that no one who <a name="Page_26" id=
+  "Page_26"></a>has not handled it would conceive it to be stone
+  and not wood: the outer surface preserves the grain or woody
+  fibre, the inner is generally silica.</p>
+
+  <p>Buffaloes bitten by tsetse again show no bad effects from it:
+  one mule is, however, dull and out of health; I thought that this
+  might be the effect of the bite till I found that his back was so
+  strained that he could not stoop to drink, and could only eat the
+  tops of the grasses. An ox would have been ill in two days after
+  the biting on the 7th.</p>
+
+  <p>A carrier stole a shirt, and went off unsuspected; when the
+  loss was ascertained, the man's companions tracked him with Ben
+  Ali by night, got him in his hut, and then collected the headmen
+  of the village, who fined him about four times the value of what
+  had been stolen. They came back in the morning without seeming to
+  think that they had done aught to be commended; this was the only
+  case of theft we had noticed, and the treatment showed a natural
+  sense of justice.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;We had showers occasionally,
+  but at night all the men were under cover of screens. The fevers
+  were speedily cured; no day was lost by sickness, but we could
+  not march more than a few miles, owing to the slowness of the
+  sepoys; they are a heavy drag on us, and of no possible use,
+  except when acting as sentries at night.</p>
+
+  <p>When in the way between Kendany and Rovuma, I observed a plant
+  here, called <i>Mandar&eacute;</i>, the root of which is in taste
+  and appearance like a waxy potato; I saw it once before at the
+  falls below the Barots&eacute; Valley, in the middle of the
+  continent; it had been brought there by an emigrant, who led out
+  the water for irrigation, and it still maintained its place in
+  the soil. Would this not prove valuable in the soil of India? I
+  find that it is not cultivated further up the country of the
+  Makond&eacute;, but I shall get Ali to secure some for
+  Bombay.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a><i>25th April,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;A serpent bit Jack, our dog, above the eye, the
+  upper eyelid swelled very much, but no other symptoms appeared,
+  and next day all swelling was gone; the serpent was either
+  harmless, or the quantity of poison injected very small. The pace
+  of the camels is distressingly slow, and it suits the sepoys to
+  make it still slower than natural by sitting down to smoke and
+  eat. The grass is high and ground under it damp and steamy.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;On the 25th we reached Narri,
+  and resolved to wait the next day and buy food, as it is not so
+  plentiful in front; the people are eager traders in meal, fowls,
+  eggs, and honey; the women are very rude. Yesterday I caught a
+  sepoy, Pando, belabouring a camel with a big stick as thick as
+  any part of his arm, the path being narrow, it could not get out
+  of his way; I shouted to him to desist; he did not know I was in
+  sight, to-day the effect of the bad usage is seen in the animal
+  being quite unable to move its leg: inflammation has set up in
+  the hip-joint. I am afraid that several bruises which have
+  festered on the camels, and were to me unaccountable, have been
+  wilfully bestowed. This same Pando and another left Zanzibar
+  drunk: he then stole a pair of socks from me, and has otherwise
+  been perfectly useless, even a pimple on his leg was an excuse
+  for doing nothing for many days. We had to leave this camel at
+  Narri under charge of the headman.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;The hills on the north now
+  retire out of our sight. A gap in the southern plateau gives
+  passage to a small river, which arises in a lakelet of some size,
+  eight or ten miles inland: the river and lakelet are both called
+  Nangadi; the latter is so broad that men cannot be distinguished,
+  even by the keen eyes of the natives on the other side: it is
+  very deep, and abounds in large fish; the people who live there
+  are Mabiha. A few miles above this gap the southern highland
+  falls away, and there are lakelets on <a name="Page_28" id=
+  "Page_28"></a>marshes, also abounding in fish, an uninhabited
+  space next succeeds, and then we have the Matambw&eacute;
+  country, which extends up to Ngomano. The Matambw&eacute; seem to
+  be a branch of the Makond&eacute;, and a very large one: their
+  country extends a long way south, and is well stocked with
+  elephants and gum-copal trees.</p>
+
+  <p>They speak a language slightly different from that of the
+  Makond&eacute;, but they understand them. The Matambw&eacute;
+  women are, according to Ali, very dark, but very comely, though
+  they do wear the lip-ring. They carry their ivory, gum-copal, and
+  slaves to Ibo or Wibo.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;We spend Sunday, the 29th, on
+  the banks of the Rovuma, at a village called Nachuchu, nearly
+  opposite Konayumba, the first of the Matambw&eacute;, whose chief
+  is called Kimbemb&eacute;. Ali draws a very dark picture of the
+  Makond&eacute;. He says they know nothing of a Deity, they pray
+  to their mothers when in distress or dying; know nothing of a
+  future state, nor have they any religion except a belief in
+  medicine; and every headsman is a doctor. No Arab has ever tried
+  to convert them, but occasionally a slave taken to the coast has
+  been circumcised in order to be clean; some of them pray, and say
+  they know not the ordeal or muavi. The Nassick boys failed me
+  when I tried to communicate some knowledge through them. They say
+  they do not understand the Makond&eacute; language, though some
+  told me that they came from Ndond&eacute;'s, which is the
+  head-quarters of the Makond&eacute;. Ali says that the
+  Makond&eacute; blame witches for disease and death; when one of a
+  village dies, the whole population departs, saying "that is a bad
+  spot." They are said to have been notorious for fines, but an awe
+  has come over them, and no complaints have been made, though our
+  animals in passing the gardens have broken a good deal of corn.
+  Ali says they fear the English. This is an answer to my prayer
+  for influence on the minds of the heathen. I <a name="Page_29"
+  id="Page_29"></a>regret that I cannot speak to them that good of
+  His name which I ought.</p>
+
+  <p>I went with the Makond&eacute; to see a specimen of the
+  gum-copal tree in the vicinity of this village. The leaves are in
+  pairs, glossy green, with the veins a little raised on both face
+  and back; the smaller branches diverge from the same point: the
+  fruit, of which we saw the shells, seems to be a nut; some animal
+  had in eating them cut them through. The bark of the tree is of a
+  light ash colour; the gum was oozing from the bark at wounded
+  places, and it drops on the ground from branches; it is thus that
+  insects are probably imbedded in the gum-copal. The people dig in
+  the vicinity of modern trees in the belief that the more ancient
+  trees which dropped their gum before it became an article of
+  commerce must have stood there. "In digging, none may be found on
+  one day but God (Mungu) may give it to us on the next." To this
+  all the Makond&eacute; present assented, and showed me the
+  consciousness of His existence was present in their minds. The
+  Makond&eacute; get the gum in large quantities, and this attracts
+  the coast Arabs, who remain a long time in the country purchasing
+  it. Hernia humoralis abounds; it is ascribed to
+  beer-drinking.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th April, 1866.</i>&mdash;Many ulcers burst forth on the
+  camels; some seem old dhow bruises. They come back from pasture,
+  bleeding in a way that no rubbing against a tree would account
+  for. I am sorry to suspect foul play: the buffaloes and mules are
+  badly used, but I cannot be always near to prevent it.</p>
+
+  <p>Bhang<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> is not smoked, but
+  tobacco is: the people have no sheep or goats; only fowls,
+  pigeons, and Muscovy ducks are seen. Honey is very cheap; a good
+  large pot of about a gallon, with four fowls, was given for two
+  yards of calico. <a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>Buffaloes
+  again bitten by tsetse, and by another fly exactly like the
+  house-fly, but having a straight hard proboscis instead of a soft
+  one; other large flies make the blood run. The tsetse does not
+  disturb the buffaloes, but these others and the smaller flies do.
+  The tsetse seem to like the camel best; from these they are
+  gorged with blood&mdash;they do not seem to care for the mules
+  and donkeys.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p030" id="p030"></a> <img src="images/p030.png" width=
+    "400" height="383" alt="Carved Door, Zanzibar." title=
+    "Carved Door, Zanzibar." /><br />
+    <b>Carved Door, Zanzibar.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Dhow is
+      the name given to the coasting vessel of East Africa and the
+      Indian Ocean.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The
+      Commander of H.M.S. <i>Pioneer</i> in 1861.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Those who
+      have read the accounts given by African travellers will
+      remember that the bites inflicted by two or three of these
+      small flies will visually lay the foundation of a sickness
+      which destroys oxen, horses, and dogs in a few weeks.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Dr.
+      Livingstone was anxious to try camels and Indian buffaloes in
+      a tsetse country to see the effect upon them.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> This
+      refers to an attack made upon the boats of the <i>Pioneer</i>
+      when the Doctor was exploring the River Rovuma in 1861.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> A species
+      of hemp.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><a name="Page_31"
+  id="Page_31"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Effect of <i>Pioneer's</i> former visit. The poodle
+    Chitan&eacute;. Result of tsetse bites. Death of camels and
+    buffaloes. Disaffection of followers. Disputed right of ferry.
+    Mazitu raids. An old friend. Severe privations. The River
+    Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher. Desolation. Tattooing.
+    Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death of the Nassick boy,
+    Richard. A sad reminiscence.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>1st May, 1866.</i>&mdash;We now came along through a
+  country comparatively free of wood, and we could move on without
+  perpetual cutting and clearing. It is beautiful to get a good
+  glimpse out on the surrounding scenery, though it still seems
+  nearly all covered with great masses of umbrageous foliage,
+  mostly of a dark green colour, for nearly all of the individual
+  trees possess dark glossy leaves like laurel. We passed a
+  gigantic specimen of the Kumb&eacute;, or gum-copal tree. Kumba
+  means to dig. Changkumb&eacute;, or things dug, is the name of
+  the gum; the Arabs call it "sandarus&eacute;." Did the people
+  give the name Kumb&eacute; to the tree after the value of the gum
+  became known to them? The Malol&eacute;, from the fine grained
+  wood of which all the bows are made, had shed its fruit on the
+  ground; it looks inviting to the eye&mdash;an oblong
+  peach-looking thing, with a number of seeds inside, but it is
+  eaten by maggots only.</p>
+
+  <p>When we came to Ntand&eacute;'s village, we found it enclosed
+  in a strong stockade, from a fear of attack by Mabiha, who come
+  across the river and steal their women when going to <a name=
+  "Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>draw water: this is for the Ibo
+  market. They offered to pull down their stockade and let us in if
+  we would remain over-night, but we declined. Before reaching
+  Ntand&eacute; we passed the ruins of two villages; the owners
+  were the attacking party when we ascended the Rovuma in 1862. I
+  have still the old sail, with four bullet-holes through it, made
+  by the shots which they fired after we had given cloth and got
+  assurances of friendship. The father and son of this village were
+  the two men seen by the second boat preparing to shoot; the fire
+  of her crew struck the father on the chin and the son on the
+  head. It may have been for the best that the English are thus
+  known as people who can hit hard when unjustly attacked, as we on
+  this occasion most certainly were: never was a murderous assault
+  more unjustly made or less provoked. They had left their villages
+  and gone up over the highlands away from the river to their
+  ambush whilst their women came to look at us.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd May, 1866.</i>&mdash;Mountains again approach us, and
+  we pass one which was noticed in our first ascent from its
+  resemblance to a table mountain. It is 600 or 800 feet high, and
+  called Liparu: the plateau now becomes mountainous, giving forth
+  a perennial stream which comes down from its western base and
+  forms a lagoon on the meadow-land that flanks the Rovuma. The
+  trees which love these perpetual streams spread their roots all
+  over the surface of the boggy banks, and make a firm surface, but
+  at spots one may sink a yard deep. We had to fill up these deep
+  ditches with branches and leaves, unload the animals, and lead
+  them across. We spent the night on the banks of the
+  Liparu,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> and then proceeded on
+  our way.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd May, 1866.</i>&mdash;We rested in a Makoa village, the
+  head of which was an old woman. The Makoa or Makoan&eacute; are
+  known by a half-moon figure tattooed on their foreheads or
+  <a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>elsewhere. Our poodle dog
+  Chitan&eacute; chased the dogs of this village with unrelenting
+  fury, his fierce looks inspired terror among the wretched pariah
+  dogs of a yellow and white colour, and those looks were entirely
+  owing to its being difficult to distinguish at which end his head
+  or tail lay. He enjoyed the chase of the yelping curs immensely,
+  but if one of them had turned he would have bolted the other
+  way.</p>
+
+  <p>A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me some
+  meal; this was when we were in the act of departing: others had
+  given food to the men and no return had been made. I told her to
+  send it on by her husband, and I would purchase it, but it would
+  have been better to have accepted it: some give merely out of
+  kindly feeling and with no prospect of a return.</p>
+
+  <p>Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed in
+  double, raised lines of about half an inch in length. After the
+  incisions are made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh pressed
+  out, so that all the cuts are raised above the level of the
+  surface. It gives them rather a hideous look, and a good deal of
+  that fierceness which our kings and chiefs of old put on whilst
+  having their portraits taken.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;The stream, embowered in perpetual
+  shade and overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved
+  trees, we found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment
+  was an island formed by a branch of it parting and re-entering it
+  again: the owner had used it for rice.</p>
+
+  <p>The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also
+  to-day, from the bites of other flies (which look much more
+  formidable than tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down;
+  this symptom I never saw before, but when we slaughtered an ox
+  which had been tsetse bitten, we observed that the blood had the
+  arterial hue. The cow has inflammation of one eye, and a swelling
+  on the right lumbar portion of the <a name="Page_34" id=
+  "Page_34"></a>pelvis: the grey buffalo has been sick, but this I
+  attribute to unmerciful loading; for his back is hurt: the camels
+  do not seem to feel the fly, though they get weaker from the
+  horrid running sores upon them and hard work. There are no
+  symptoms of tsetse in mules or donkeys, but one mule has had his
+  shoulder sprained, and he cannot stoop to eat or drink.</p>
+
+  <p>We saw the last of the flanking range on the north. The
+  country in front is plain, with a few detached granitic peaks
+  shot up. The Makoa in large numbers live at the end of the range
+  in a place called Nyuchi. At Nyamba, a village where we spent the
+  night of the 5th, was a doctoress and rain-maker, who presented a
+  large basket of soroko, or, as they call it in India, "mung," and
+  a fowl. She is tall and well made, with fine limbs and feet, and
+  was profusely tattooed all over; even her hips and buttocks had
+  their elaborate markings: no shame is felt in exposing these
+  parts.</p>
+
+  <p>A good deal of salt is made by lixiviation of the soil and
+  evaporating by fire. The head woman had a tame khanga tol&eacute;
+  or tufted guinea-fowl, with bluish instead of white spots.</p>
+
+  <p>In passing along westwards after leaving the end of the range,
+  we came first of all on sandstone hardened by fire; then masses
+  of granite, as if in that had been contained the igneous agency
+  of partial metamorphosis; it had also lifted up the sandstone, so
+  as to cause a dip to the east. Then the syenite or granite seemed
+  as if it had been melted, for it was all in striae, which striae,
+  as they do elsewhere, run east and west. With the change in
+  geological structure we get a different vegetation. Instead of
+  the laurel-leaved trees of various kinds, we have African
+  ebonies, acacias, and mimosae: the grass is shorter and more
+  sparse, and we can move along without wood-cutting. We were now
+  opposite a hill on the south called Simba, a lion, from its
+  supposed resemblance to <a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>that
+  animal. A large Mabiha population live there, and make raids
+  occasionally over to this side for slaves.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;Tsetse again. The animals look
+  drowsy. The cow's eye is dimmed; when punctured, the skin emits a
+  stream of scarlet blood. The people hereabouts seem intelligent
+  and respectful. At service a man began to talk, but when I said,
+  "Ku soma Mlungu,"&mdash;"we wish to pray to God," he desisted. It
+  would be interesting to know what the ideas of these men are, and
+  to ascertain what they have gained in their communings with
+  nature during the ages past. They do not give the idea of that
+  boisterous wickedness and disregard of life which we read of in
+  our own dark ages, but I have no one to translate, although I can
+  understand much of what is said on common topics chiefly from
+  knowing other dialects.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;A camel died during the night, and
+  the grey buffalo is in convulsions this morning. The cruelty of
+  these sepoys vitiates my experiment, and I quite expect many
+  camels, one buffalo, and one mule to die yet; they sit down and
+  smoke and eat, leaving the animals loaded in the sun. If I am not
+  with them, it is a constant dawdling; they are evidently
+  unwilling to exert themselves, they cannot carry their belts and
+  bags, and their powers of eating and vomiting are astounding. The
+  Makond&eacute; villages are remarkably clean, but no sooner do we
+  pass a night in one than the fellows make it filthy. The climate
+  does give a sharp appetite, but these sepoys indulge it till
+  relieved by vomiting and purging. First of all they breakfast,
+  then an hour afterwards they are sitting eating the pocketfuls of
+  corn maize they have stolen and brought for the purpose, whilst I
+  have to go ahead, otherwise we may be misled into a zigzag course
+  to see Ali's friends; and if I remain behind to keep the sepoys
+  on the move, it deprives me of all the pleasure of travelling. We
+  have not averaged four miles a day in a straight line, yet the
+  animals have often been <a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>kept
+  in the sun for eight hours at a stretch. When we get up at 4 A.M.
+  we cannot get under weigh before 8 o'clock. Sepoys are a
+  mistake.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;We are now opposite a mountain
+  called Nabungala, which resembles from the north-east an elephant
+  lying down. Another camel, a very good one, died on the way: its
+  shiverings and convulsions are not at all like what we observed
+  in horses and oxen killed by tsetse, but such may lie the cause,
+  however. The only symptom pointing to the tsetse is the
+  arterial-looking blood, but we never saw it ooze from the skin
+  after the bite of the gad-fly as we do now.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;We arrived at a village called
+  Jpond&eacute;, or Lipond&eacute;, which lies opposite a granitic
+  hill on the other-side of the river (where we spent a night on
+  our boat trip), called Nakapuri; this is rather odd, for the
+  words are not Makond&eacute; but Sichuana, and signify goat's
+  horn, from the projections jutting out from the rest of the mass.
+  I left the havildar, sepoys, and Nassick boys here in order to
+  make a forced march forward, where no food is to be had, and send
+  either to the south or westwards for supplies, so that after they
+  have rested the animals and themselves five days they may come.
+  One mule is very ill; one buffalo drowsy and exhausted; one camel
+  a mere skeleton from bad sores; and another has an enormous hole
+  at the point of the pelvis, which sticks out at the side. I
+  suspect that this was made maliciously, for he came from the
+  field bleeding profusely; no tree would have perforated a round
+  hole in this way. I take all the goods and leave only the sepoys'
+  luggage, which is enough for all the animals now.</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;I went on with the Johanna men and
+  twenty-four carriers, for it was a pleasure to get away from the
+  sepoys and Nassick boys; the two combined to overload the
+  animals. I told them repeatedly that they would kill them, but no
+  sooner had I adjusted the burdens and turned my back than
+  <a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>they put on all their things.
+  It was however such continual vexation to contend with the
+  sneaking spirit, that I gave up annoying myself by seeing
+  matters, though I felt certain that the animals would all be
+  killed. We did at least eight miles pleasantly well, and slept at
+  Moedaa village. The rocks are still syenite. We passed a valley
+  with the large thorny acacias of which canoes are often made, and
+  a euphorbiaceous tree, with seed-vessels as large as mandarin
+  oranges, with three seeds inside. We were now in a country which,
+  in addition to the Mazitu invasion, was suffering from one of
+  those inexplicable droughts to which limited and sometimes large
+  portions of this country are subject. It had not been nearly so
+  severe on the opposite or south side, and thither too the Mazitu
+  had not penetrated. Rushes, which plagued us nearer the coast,
+  are not observed now; the grass is all crisp and yellow; many of
+  the plants are dead, and leaves are fallen off the trees as if
+  winter had begun. The ground is covered with open forest, with
+  here and there thick jungle on the banks of the streams. All the
+  rivulets we have passed are mere mountain torrents filled with
+  sand, in which the people dig for water.</p>
+
+  <p>We passed the spot where an Arab called Birkal was asked
+  payment for leave to pass. After two and a half days' parley he
+  fought, killed two Makond&eacute;, and mortally wounded a
+  headman, which settled the matter; no fresh demand has been made.
+  Ali's brother also resisted the same sort of demand, fought
+  several times, or until three Makond&eacute; and two of his
+  people were killed; they then made peace, and no other exactions
+  have been made.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;We now found a difficulty in
+  getting our carriers along, on account of exhaustion from want of
+  food. In going up a sand stream called Ny&eacute;d&eacute;, we
+  saw that all moist spots had been planted with maize and beans,
+  so the loss caused by the Mazitu, who swept the land like a cloud
+  of locusts, will not be attended by much actual starvation.
+  <a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>We met a runaway woman: she
+  was seized by Ali, and it was plain that he expected a reward for
+  his pains. He thought she was a slave, but a quarter of a mile
+  off was the village she had left, and it being doubtful if she
+  were a runaway at all, the would-be fugitive slave-capture turned
+  out a failure.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;About 4' E.N.E. of Matawatawa, or
+  Nyamatolol&eacute;, our former turning point.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;We halted at a village at
+  Matawatawa. A pleasant-looking lady, with her face profusely
+  tattooed, came forward with a bunch of sweet reed, or <i>Sorghum
+  saceliaratum</i>, and laid it at my feet, saying, "I met you here
+  before," pointing to the spot on the river where we turned. I
+  remember her coming then, and that I asked the boat to wait while
+  she went to bring us a basket of food, and I think it was given
+  to Chiko, and no return made. It is sheer kindliness that prompts
+  them sometimes, though occasionally people do make presents with
+  a view of getting a larger one in return: it is pleasant to find
+  that it is not always so. She had a quiet, dignified manner, both
+  in talking and walking, and I now gave her a small looking-glass,
+  and she went and brought me her only fowl and a basket of
+  cucumber-seeds, from which oil is made; from the amount of oily
+  matter they contain thov are nutritious when roasted and eaten as
+  nuts. She made an apology, saying they were hungry times at
+  present. I gave her a cloth, and so parted with
+  Kana&ntilde;gon&eacute;, or, as her name may be spelled,
+  Kana&ntilde;on&eacute;. The carriers were very useless from
+  hunger, and we could not buy anything for them; for the country
+  is all dried up, and covered sparsely with mimosas and thorny
+  acacias.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;I could not get the carriers on
+  more than an hour and three-quarters: men tire very soon on empty
+  stomachs. We had reached the village of Hassan&eacute;, opposite
+  to a conical hill named Chisulw&eacute;, which is on the south
+  side of the river, and evidently of igneous origin. It is
+  tree-covered, <a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>while the
+  granite always shows lumps of naked rock. All about lie great
+  patches of beautiful dolomite. It may have been formed by baking
+  of the tufa, which in this country seems always to have been
+  poured out with water after volcanic action. Hassan&eacute;'s
+  daughter was just lifting a pot of French beans, boiled in their
+  pods, off the fire when we entered the village, these he
+  presented to me, and when I invited him to partake, he replied
+  that he was at home and would get something, while I was a
+  stranger on a journey. He, like all the other headmen, is a
+  reputed doctor, and his wife, a stout old lady, a doctoress; he
+  had never married any wife but this one, and he had four
+  children, all of whom lived with their parents. We employed one
+  of his sons to go to the south side and purchase food, sending at
+  the same time some carriers to buy for themselves. The siroko and
+  rice bought by Hassan&eacute;'s son we deposited with him for the
+  party behind, when they should arrive. The amount of terror the
+  Mazitu inspire cannot be realized by us. They shake their shields
+  and the people fly like stricken deer. I observed that a child
+  would not go a few yards for necessary purposes unless
+  grandmother stood in sight. Matumora, as the Arabs call the chief
+  at Ngomano, gave them a warm reception, and killed several of
+  them: this probably induced them to retire.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th and 16th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;Miserably short marches
+  from hunger, and I sympathise with the poor fellows. Those sent
+  to buy food for themselves on the south bank were misled by a
+  talkative fellow named Chikungu, and went off north, where we
+  knew nothing could be had. His object was to get paid for three
+  days, while they only loitered here. I suppose hunger has taken
+  the spirit out of them; but I told them that a day in which no
+  work was done did not count: they admitted this. We pay about two
+  feet of calico per day, and a fathom or six feet for three days'
+  carriage.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;With very empty stomachs they
+  came on a <a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>few miles and
+  proposed to cross to the south side; as this involved crossing
+  the Luendi too, I at first objected, but in hopes that we might
+  get food for them we consented, and were taken over in two very
+  small canoes. I sent Ali and Musa meanwhile to the south to try
+  and get some food. I got a little green sorghum for them and paid
+  them off. These are the little troubles of travelling, and scarce
+  worth mentioning. A granitic peak now appears about 15' off, to
+  the W.S.W. It is called Chihoka.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;At our crossing place metamorphic
+  rocks of a chocolate colour stood on edge; and in the country
+  round we have patches of dolomite, sometimes as white as marble.
+  The country is all dry: grass and leaves crisp and yellow. Though
+  so arid now, yet the great abundance of the dried stalks of a
+  water-loving plant, a sort of herbaceous acacia, with green
+  pea-shaped flowers, proves that at other times it is damp enough.
+  The marks of people's feet floundering in slush, but now baked,
+  show that the country can be sloppy.</p>
+
+  <p>The headman of the village where we spent the night of 17th is
+  a martyr to rheumatism. He asked for medicine, and when I gave
+  some he asked me to give it to him out of my own hand. He
+  presented me with a basket of siroko and of green sorghum as a
+  fee, of which I was very glad, for my own party were suffering,
+  and I had to share out the little portion of flour I had reserved
+  to myself.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;Coming on with what carriers we
+  could find at the crossing place, we reached the confluence
+  without seeing it; and Matumora being about two miles up the
+  Loendi, we sent over to him for aid. He came over this morning
+  early,&mdash;a tall, well-made man, with a somewhat severe
+  expression of countenance, from a number of wrinkles on his
+  forehead. He took us over the Loendi, which is decidedly the
+  parent stream of the Rovuma, though that as it comes from the
+  west still retains the name Loendi from <a name="Page_41" id=
+  "Page_41"></a>the south-west here, and is from 150 to 200 yards
+  wide, while the Rovuma above Matawatawa is from 200 to 250, full
+  of islands, rocks, and sandbanks. The Loendi has the same
+  character. We can see the confluence from where we cross about 2'
+  to the north. Both rivers are rapid, shoal, and sandy; small
+  canoes are used on them, and the people pride themselves on their
+  skilful management: in this the women seem in no way inferior to
+  the men.</p>
+
+  <p>In looking up the Loendi we see a large granitic peak called
+  Nkanj&eacute;, some 20 miles off, and beyond it the dim outline
+  of distant highlands, in which seams of coal are exposed. Pieces
+  of the mineral are found in Loendi's sands.</p>
+
+  <p>Matumora has a good character in the country, and many flee to
+  him from oppression. He was very polite; sitting on the right
+  bank till all the goods were carried over, then coming in the
+  same canoe wifn me himself, he opened a fish basket in a weir and
+  gave me the contents, and subsequently a little green sorghum. He
+  literally has lost all his corn, for he was obliged to flee with
+  his people to Marumba, a rocky island in Rovuma, about six miles
+  above Matawatawa. He says that both Loendi and Rovuma come out of
+  Lake Nyassa; a boat could not ascend, however, because many
+  waterfalls are in their course: it is strange if all this is a
+  myth. Matumora asked if the people through whose country I had
+  come would preserve the peace I wished. He says he has been
+  assailed on all sides by slave-hunters: he alone has never hunted
+  for captives: if the people in front should attack me he would
+  come and fight them: finally he had never seen a European before
+  (Dr. Roscher travelled as an Arab), nor could I learn where
+  Likumbu at Ngomano lives; it was with him that Roscher is said to
+  have left his goods.</p>
+
+  <p>The Mazitu had women, children, oxen and goats with them. The
+  whole tribe lives on plundering the other natives by means of the
+  terror their shields inspire; had they gone <a name="Page_42" id=
+  "Page_42"></a>further down the Rovuma, no ox would have survived
+  the tsetse.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;I paid Ali to his entire
+  satisfaction, and entrusted him with a despatch, "No. 2
+  Geographical," and then sent off four men south to buy food. Here
+  we are among Matambw&eacute;. Two of Matumora's men act as
+  guides. We are about 2' south and by west of the confluence
+  Ngomano. Lat. 11&deg; 26' 23" S.; long. 37&deg; 40' 52" E.</p>
+
+  <p>Abraham, one of the Nassick boys, came up and said he had been
+  sent by the sepoys, who declared they would come no further. It
+  was with the utmost difficulty they had come so far, or that the
+  havildar had forced them on, they would not obey him&mdash;would
+  not get up in the mornings to march; lay in the paths, and gave
+  their pouches and muskets to the natives to carry: they make
+  themselves utterly useless. The black buffalo is dead; one camel
+  ditto, and one mule left behind ill. Were I not aware of the
+  existence of the tsetse, I should say they died from sheer bad
+  treatment and hard work.</p>
+
+  <p>I sent a note to be read to the sepoys stating that I had seen
+  their disobedience, unwillingness, and skulking, and as soon as I
+  received the havildar's formal evidence, I would send them back.
+  I regretted parting with the havildar only.</p>
+
+  <p>A leopard came a little after dark while the moon was shining,
+  and took away a little dog from among us; it is said to have
+  taken off a person a few days ago.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd May, 1866.</i>&mdash;The men returned with but little
+  food in return for much cloth. Matumora is very friendly, but he
+  has nothing to give save a little green sorghum, and that he
+  brings daily.</p>
+
+  <p>A south wind blows strongly every afternoon. The rains ceased
+  about the middle of May, and the temperature is lowered. A few
+  heavy night showers closed the rainy season.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd&mdash;24th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;I took some Lunar
+  observations.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a><i>25th May,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;Matumora is not Ndond&eacute;. A chief to the
+  south-west of this owns that name and belongs to the
+  Matumbw&eacute; tribe.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;I sent Musa westwards to buy
+  food, and he returned on the evening of 27th without success; he
+  found an Arab slave-dealer waiting in the path, who had bought up
+  all the provisions. About 11 P.M. we saw two men pass our door
+  with two women in a chain; one man carried fire in front, the one
+  behind, a musket. Matumora admits that his people sell each
+  other.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th May, 1866.</i>&mdash;The havildar and Abraham came up.
+  Havildar says that all I said in my note was true, and when it
+  was read to the sepoys they bewailed their folly, he adds that if
+  they were all sent away disgraced, no one would be to blame but
+  themselves. He brought them to Hassan&eacute;'s, but they were
+  useless, though they begged to be kept on: I may give them
+  another trial, but at present they are a sad incumbrance.
+  South-west of this the Manganja begin; but if one went by them,
+  there is a space beyond in the south-west without people.</p>
+
+  <p>The country due west of this is described by all to be so
+  mountainous and beset by Mazitu, that there is no possibility of
+  passing that way. I must therefore make my way to the middle of
+  the Lake, cross over, and then take up my line of 1863.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd June, 1866.</i>&mdash;The men sent to the
+  Matambw&eacute; south-east of this returned with a good supply of
+  grain. The sepoys won't come; they say they cannot,&mdash;a mere
+  excuse, v because they tried to prevail on the Nassick boys to go
+  slowly like them, and wear my patience out. They killed one camel
+  with the butt ends of their muskets, beating it till it died. I
+  thought of going down disarming them all, and taking five or six
+  of the willing ones, but it is more trouble than profit, so I
+  propose to start westwards on Monday the 4th, or Tuesday the 5th.
+  My sepoys offered <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>Ali eight
+  rupees to take them to the coast, thus it has been a regularly
+  organized conspiracy.</p>
+
+  <p>From the appearance of the cow-buffalo, I fear the tsetse is
+  its chief enemy, but there is a place like a bayonet wound on its
+  shoulder, and many of the wounds or bruises on the camels were so
+  probed that I suspect the sepoys.</p>
+
+  <p>Many things African are possessed of as great vitality in
+  their line as the African people. The white ant was imported
+  accidentally into St. Helena from the coast of Guinea, and has
+  committed such ravages in the town of St. James, that numerous
+  people have been ruined, and the governor calls out for aid
+  against them. In other so-called new countries a wave of English
+  weeds follows the tide of English emigration, and so with
+  insects; the European house-fly chases away the blue-bottle fly
+  in New Zealand. Settlers have carried the house-fly in bottles
+  and boxes for their new locations, but what European insect will
+  follow us and extirpate the tsetse? The Arabs have given the
+  Makond&eacute; bugs, but we have the house-fly wherever we go,
+  the blue-bottle and another like the house-fly, but with a sharp
+  proboscis; and several enormous gad-flies. Here there is so much
+  room for everything. In New Zealand the Norwegian rat is driven
+  off by even the European mouse; not to mention the Hanoverian rat
+  of Waterton, which is lord of the land. The Maori say that "as
+  the white man's rat has driven away the native rat, so the
+  European fly drives away our own; and as the clover kills our
+  fern, so will the Maori disappear before the white man himself."
+  The hog placed ashore by Captain Cook has now overrun one side of
+  the island, and is such a nuisance that a large farmer of 100,000
+  acres has given sixpence per head for the destruction of some
+  20,000, and without any sensible diminution; this would be no
+  benefit here, for the wild hogs abound and do much damage,
+  besides affording food for the tsetse: the brutes follow the ewes
+  with young, <a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>and devour the
+  poor lambs as soon as they make their appearance.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd June, 1866.</i>&mdash;The cow-buffalo fell down foaming
+  at the mouth, and expired. The meat looks fat and nice, and is
+  relished by the people, a little glariness seemed to be present
+  on the foreleg, and I sometimes think that, notwithstanding the
+  dissimilarity of the symptoms observed in the camels and
+  buffaloes now, and those we saw in oxen and horses, the evil may
+  be the tsetse, after all, but they have been badly used, without
+  a doubt. The calf has a cut half an inch deep, the camels have
+  had large ulcers, and at last a peculiar smell, which portends
+  death. I feel perplexed, and not at all certain as to the real
+  causes of death.</p>
+
+  <p>I asked Matumora if the Matambw&eacute; believed in God, he
+  replied, that he did not know Him, and I was not to ask the
+  people among whom I was going if they prayed to Him, because they
+  would imagine that I wished them to be killed. I told him that we
+  loved to speak about Him, &amp;c. He said, when they prayed they
+  offered a little meal and then prayed, but did not know much
+  about Him.</p>
+
+  <p>They have all great reverence for the Deity, and the
+  deliberate way in which they say "We don't know Him" is to
+  prevent speaking irreverently, as that may injure the country.
+  The name is "Mulungu": Makochera afterwards said, that "He was
+  not good, because He killed so many people."</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Left Ngomano. I was obliged to
+  tell the Nassick boys that they must either work or return, it
+  was absurd to have them eating up our goods, and not even
+  carrying their own things, and I would submit to it no more: five
+  of them carry bales, and two the luggage of the rest. Abraham and
+  Richard are behind. I gave them bales to carry, and promised them
+  ten rupees per month, to begin on this date. Abraham has worked
+  hard all along, and his <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>pay
+  may be due from 7th April, the day we started from Kindany.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;We slept at a village called
+  Lamba, on the banks of the Rovuma, near a brawling torrent of 150
+  yards, or 200 perhaps, with many islands and rocks in it. The
+  country is covered with open forest, with patches of cultivation
+  everywhere, but all dried up at present and withered, partly from
+  drought and partly from the cold of winter. We passed a village
+  with good ripe sorghum cut down, and the heads or ears all laid
+  neatly in a row, this is to get it dried in the sun, and not
+  shaken out by the wind, by waving to and fro; besides it is also
+  more easily watched from being plundered by birds. The sorghum
+  occasionally does not yield seed, and is then the <i>Sorghum
+  saccharatum</i>, for the stalk contains abundance of sugar, and
+  is much relished by the natives. Now that so much has failed to
+  yield seed, being indeed just in flower, the stalks are chewed as
+  if sugar-cane, and the people are fat thereon; but the hungry
+  time is in store when these stalles are all done. They make the
+  best provision in their power against famine by planting beans
+  and maize in moist spots. The common native pumpkin forms a
+  bastard sort in the same way, but that is considered very
+  inferior.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Great hills of granite are
+  occasionally in sight towards the north, but the trees, though
+  scraggy, close in the view. We left a village, called Mekosi, and
+  goon came to a slaving party by a sand stream. They said that
+  they had bought two slaves, but they had run away from them, and
+  asked us to remain with them; more civil than inviting. We came
+  on to Makochera, the principal headman in this quarter, and found
+  him a merry laughing mortal, without any good looks to recommend
+  his genial smile,&mdash;low forehead, covered with deep wrinkles;
+  flat nose, somewhat of the Assyrian shape; a big mouth and lean
+  body. He complained of the Machinga (a Waiyau <a name="Page_47"
+  id="Page_47"></a>tribe north of him and the Rovuma) stealing his
+  people. Lat. of village, 11&deg; 22' 49" S. The river being about
+  2' north, still shows that it makes a trend to the north after we
+  pass Ngomano. Makochera has been an elephant hunter. Few
+  acknowledge as a reason for slaving that sowing and spinning
+  cotton for clothing is painful. I waited some days for the
+  Nassick boys, who are behind, though we could not buy any food
+  except at enormous prices and long distances off.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;The havildar and two sepoys came
+  up with Abraham, but Richard, a Nassick boy, is still behind from
+  weakness. I sent three off to help him with the only cordials we
+  could muster. The sepoys sometimes profess inability to come on,
+  but it is unwillingness to encounter hardship: I must move on
+  whether they come or not, for we cannot obtain food here. I sent
+  the sepoys some cloth, and on the 8th proposed to start, but
+  every particle of food had been devoured the night before, so we
+  despatched two parties to scour the country round, and give any
+  price rather than want.</p>
+
+  <p>I could not prevail on Makochera to give me a specimen of
+  poetry; he was afraid, neither he nor his forefathers had ever
+  seen an Englishman. He thought that God was not good because He
+  killed so many people. Dr. Roscher must have travelled as an Arab
+  if he came this way, for he was not known.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p>
+
+  <p><i>9th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;We now left and marched through
+  the same sort of forest, gradually ascending in altitude as we
+  went west, then we came to huge masses of granite, or syenite,
+  with flakes peeling off. They are covered with a plant with
+  grassy-looking leaves and rough stalk which strips into portions
+  similar to what are put round candles as ornaments. <a name=
+  "Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>It makes these hills look light grey,
+  with patches of black rock at the more perpendicular parts; the
+  same at about ten miles off look dark blue. The ground is often
+  hard and stony, but all covered over with grass and plants:
+  looking down at it, the grass is in tufts, and like that on the
+  Kalahari desert. Trees show uplands. One tree of which bark cloth
+  is made, pterocarpus, is abundant. Timber-trees appear here and
+  there, but for the most part the growth is stunted, and few are
+  higher than thirty feet. We spent the night by a hill of the
+  usual rounded form, called Nje&ntilde;go. The Rovuma comes close
+  by, but leaves us again to wind among similar great masses. Lat.
+  11&deg; 20' 05" S.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;A very heavy march through the
+  same kind of country, no human habitation appearing; we passed a
+  dead body&mdash;recently, it was said, starved to death. The
+  large tract between Makochera's and our next station at Ngozo
+  hill is without any perennial stream; water is found often by
+  digging in the sand streams which we several times crossed;
+  sometimes it was a trickling rill, but I suspect that at other
+  seasons all is dry, and people are made dependent on the Rovuma
+  alone. The first evidence of our being near the pleasant haunts
+  of man was a nice little woman drawing water at a well. I had
+  become separated from the rest: on giving me water she knelt
+  down, and, as country manners require, held it up to me with
+  <i>both</i> hands. I had been misled by one of the carriers, who
+  got confused, though the rounded mass of Ngozo was plainly
+  visible from the heights we crossed east of it.</p>
+
+  <p>An Arab party bolted on hearing of our approach: they don't
+  trust the English, and this conduct increases our importance
+  among the natives. Lat. 11&deg; 18' 10" S.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Our carriers refuse to go
+  further, because they say that they fear being captured here on
+  their return.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;I paid off the carriers, and
+  wait for a set <a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>from this. A
+  respectable man, called Makoloya, or Impand&eacute;, visited me,
+  and wished to ask some questions as to where I was going, and how
+  long I should be away. He had heard from a man who came from Ibo,
+  or Wibo, about the Bible, a large book which was consulted.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
+    <a name="p049" id="p049"></a> <img src="images/p049.png" width=
+    "300" height="207" alt="Tattoo of Matambw&eacute;." title=
+    "Tattoo of Matambw&eacute;." /> <b>Tattoo of
+    Matambw&eacute;.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>13th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Makoloya brought his wife and a
+  little corn, and says that his father told him that there is a
+  God, but nothing more. The marks on their foreheads and bodies
+  are meant only to give beauty in the dance, they seem a sort of
+  heraldic ornament, for they can at once tell by his tattoo to
+  what tribe or portion of tribe a man belongs. The tattoo or tembo
+  of the Matambw&eacute; and Upper Makond&eacute; very much
+  resembles the drawings of the old Egyptians; wavy lines, such as
+  the ancients made to signify water, trees and gardens enclosed in
+  squares, seem to have been meant of old for the inhabitants who
+  lived on the Rovuma, and cultivated also, the son takes the
+  tattoo of his father, and thus it has been perpetuated, though
+  the meaning now appears lost. The Makoa have the half or nearly
+  full moon, but it is, they say, all for ornament. Some blue stuff
+  is rubbed into the cuts (I am told it is charcoal), and the
+  ornament shows <a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>brightly in
+  persons of light complexion, who by the bye are common. The
+  Makond&eacute; and Matambw&eacute; file their front teeth to
+  points; the Machinga, a Waiyan tribe, leave two points on the
+  sides of the front teeth, and knock out one of the middle
+  incisors above and below.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;I am now as much dependent on
+  carriers as if I had never bought a beast of burden&mdash;but
+  this is poor stuff to fill a journal with. We started off to
+  Metaba to see if the chief there would lend some men. The
+  headman, Kitwanga, went a long way to convoy us; then turned,
+  saying he was going to get men for Musa next day. We passed near
+  the base of the rounded masses Ngozo and Mekanga, and think, from
+  a near inspection, that they are over 2000 feet above the plain,
+  possibly 3000 feet, and nearly bare, with only the peculiar
+  grassy plant on some parts which are not too perpendicular. The
+  people are said to have stores of grain on them, and on one the
+  chief said there is water; he knows of no stone buildings of the
+  olden time in the country. We passed many masses of ferruginous
+  conglomerate, and I noticed that most of the gneiss dips
+  westwards. The striae seem as if the rock had been partially
+  molten: at times the strike is north and south, at others east
+  and west; when we come to what may have been its surface, it is
+  as if the striae had been stirred with a rod while soft.</p>
+
+  <p>We slept at a point of the Rovuma, above a cataract where a
+  reach of comparatively still water, from 150 to 200 yards wide,
+  allows a school of hippopotami to live: when the river becomes
+  fordable in many places, as it is said to do in August and
+  September, they must find it difficult to exist.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Another three hours' march
+  brought us from the sleeping-place on the Rovuma to Metaba, the
+  chief of which, Kinazomb&eacute;, is an elderly man, with a
+  cunning and <a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>severe cast of
+  countenance, and a nose Assyrian in type; he has built a large
+  reception house, in which a number of half-caste Arabs have taken
+  up their abode. A great many of the people have guns, and it is
+  astonishing to see the number of slave-taming sticks abandoned
+  along the road as the poor wretches gave in, and professed to
+  have lost all hope of escape. Many huts have been built by the
+  Arabs to screen themselves from the rain as they travelled. At
+  Kinazomb&eacute;'s the second crop of maize is ready, so the
+  hunger will not be very much felt.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;We heard very sombre accounts of
+  the country in front:&mdash;four or five days to Mtarika, and
+  then ten days through jungle to Mataka's town: little food at
+  Mtarika's, but plenty with Mataka, who is near the Lake. The
+  Rovuma trends southerly after we leave Ngozo, and Masusa on that
+  river is pointed out as south-west from Metaba, so at Ngozo the
+  river may be said to have its furthest northing. Masusa is
+  reported to be five days, or at least fifty miles, from Metaba.
+  The route now becomes south-west.</p>
+
+  <p>The cattle of Africa are like the Indian buffalo, only
+  partially tamed; they never give their milk without the presence
+  of the calf or its stuffed skin, the "fulchan." The women
+  adjacent to Mozambique partake a little of the wild animal's
+  nature, for, like most members of the inferior races of animals,
+  they refuse all intercourse with their husbands when enceinte and
+  they continue this for about three years afterwards, or until the
+  child is weaned, which usually happens about the third year. I
+  was told, on most respectable authority, that many fine young
+  native men marry one wife and live happily with her till this
+  period; nothing will then induce her to continue to cohabit with
+  him, and, as the separation is to continue for three years, the
+  man is almost compelled to take up with another wife: this was
+  mentioned to me as one of the great evils of society. The same
+  absurdity prevails on the West Coast, <a name="Page_52" id=
+  "Page_52"></a>and there it is said that the men acquiesce from
+  ideas of purity.</p>
+
+  <p>It is curious that trade-rum should form so important an
+  article of import on the West Coast while it is almost unknown on
+  the East Coast, for the same people began the commerce in both
+  instances. If we look north of Cape Delgado, we might imagine
+  that the religious convictions of the Arabs had something to do
+  with the matter, but the Portuguese south of Cape Delgado have no
+  scruples in the matter, and would sell their grandfathers as well
+  as the rum if they could make money by the transaction, they have
+  even erected distilleries to furnish a vile spirit from the fruit
+  of the cashew and other fruits and grain, but the trade does not
+  succeed. They give their slaves also rewards of spirit, or "maata
+  bicho" ("kill the creature," or "craving within"), and you may
+  meet a man who, having had much intercourse with Portuguese, may
+  beg spirits, but the trade does not pay. The natives will drink
+  it if furnished gratis. The indispensable "dash" of rum on the
+  West Coast in every political transaction with independent chiefs
+  is, however, quite unknown. The Moslems would certainly not
+  abstain from trading in spirits were the trade profitable. They
+  often asked for brandy from me in a sly way&mdash;as medicine;
+  and when reminded that their religion forbade it, would say, "Oh,
+  but we can drink it in secret."</p>
+
+  <p>It is something in the nature of the people quite
+  inexplicable, that throughout the Makond&eacute; country hernia
+  humoralis prevails to a frightful extent; it is believed by the
+  natives to be the result of beer drinking, so they cannot be
+  considered as abstemious.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Finding that Musa did not come
+  up with the goods I left in his charge, and fearing that all was
+  not right, we set off with all our hands who could carry, after
+  service yesterday morning, and in six hours' hard tramp arrived
+  here just in time, for a tribe of Wanindi, or <a name="Page_53"
+  id="Page_53"></a>Manindi, who are either Ajawas (Waiyau),<a name=
+  "FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> or pretended Mazitu,
+  had tried to cross the Rovuma from the north bank. They came as
+  plunderers, and Musa having received no assistance was now ready
+  to defend the goods. A shot or two from the people of Kitwanga
+  made the Wanindi desert after they had entered the water.</p>
+
+  <p>Six sepoys and Simon had come up this length; Reuben and
+  Mabruki reported Richard to be dead. This poor boy was left with
+  the others at Lipond&eacute;, and I never saw him again. I
+  observed him associating too much with the sepoys; and often felt
+  inclined to reprove him, as their conversation is usually very
+  bad, but I could not of my own knowledge say so. He came on with
+  the others as far as Hassan&eacute; or Pachassan&eacute;: there
+  he was too weak to come further, and as the sepoys were
+  notoriously skulkers, I feared that poor Richard was led away by
+  them, for I knew that they had made many attempts to draw away
+  the other Nassick boys from their duty. When, however, Abraham
+  came up and reported Richard left behind by the sepoys, I became
+  alarmed, and sent off three boys with cordials to help him on:
+  two days after Abraham left he seems to have died, and I feel
+  very sorry that I was not there to do what I could. I am told now
+  that he never consented to the sepoy temptation: he said to
+  Abraham that he wished he were dead, he was so much troubled. The
+  people where he died were not v$ry civil to Simon.</p>
+
+  <p>The sepoys had now made themselves such an utter nuisance that
+  I felt that I must take the upper hand with them, so I called
+  them up this morning, and asked if they knew the punishment they
+  had incurred by disobeying orders, and attempting to tamper with
+  the Nassick boys to <a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>turn them
+  back. I told them they not only remained in the way when ordered
+  to march, but offered eight rupees to Ali to lead them to the
+  coast, and that the excuse of sickness was nought, for they had
+  eaten heartily three meals a day while pretending illness. They
+  had no excuse to offer, so I disrated the naik or corporal, and
+  sentenced the others to carry loads; if they behave well, then
+  they will get fatigue pay for doing fatigue duty, if ill, nothing
+  but their pay. Their limbs are becoming contracted from sheer
+  idleness; while all the other men are well and getting stronger
+  they alone are disreputably slovenly and useless-looking. Their
+  filthy habits are to be reformed, and if found at their habit of
+  sitting down and sleeping for hours on the march, or without
+  their muskets and pouches, they are to be flogged. I sent two of
+  them back to bring up two comrades, left behind yesterday. All
+  who have done work are comparatively strong.</p>
+
+  <p>[We may venture a word in passing on the subject of native
+  recruits, enlisted for service in Africa, and who return thither
+  after a long absence. All the Nassick boys were native-born
+  Africans, and yet we see one of them succumb immediately. The
+  truth is that natives; under these circumstances, are just as
+  liable to the effects of malaria on landing as Europeans,
+  although it is not often that fever assumes a dangerous form in
+  such cases. The natives of the interior have the greatest dread
+  of the illnesses which they say are sure to be in store for them
+  if they visit the coast.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;I gave the sepoys light loads in
+  order to inure them to exercise and strengthen them, and they
+  carried willingly so long as the fright was on them, but when the
+  fear of immediate punishment wore off they began their skulking
+  again. One, Perim, reduced his load of about 20 lbs. of tea by
+  throwing away the lead in which it was <a name="Page_55" id=
+  "Page_55"></a>rolled, and afterwards about 15 lbs. of the tea,
+  thereby diminishing our stock to 5 lbs.</p>
+
+  <p>[Dr. Livingstone's short stay in England in 1864-5 was mainly
+  taken up with compiling an account of his travels on the Zambesi
+  and Shir&eacute;: during this time his mother expired in Scotland
+  at a good old age. When he went back to Africa he took with him,
+  as part of his very scanty travelling equipment, a number of
+  letters which he received from friends at different times in
+  England, and he very often quoted them when he had an opportunity
+  of sending letters home. We come to an entry at this time which
+  shows that in these reminiscences he had not thus preserved an
+  unmixed pleasure. He says:&mdash;]</p>
+
+  <p>I lighted on a telegram to-day:&mdash;"Your mother died at
+  noon on the 18th June."</p>
+
+  <p>This was in 1865: it affected me not a little.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Further on
+      we found it called Nkonya.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> It will
+      be remembered that this German traveller was murdered near
+      Lake Nyassa. The native chiefs denounced his assassins, and
+      sent them to Zanzibar, where they were
+      executed.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Further
+      westward amongst the Manganja or Nyassa people the Waiyan
+      tribe is called "Ajawa," and we find Livingstone always
+      speaking of them as Ajawas in his previous explorations on
+      the River Rovuma. (See 'The Zambesi and its
+      Tributaries.')&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="fp056" id="fp056"></a> <img src="images/fp056.jpg"
+    width="500" height="278" alt="Slavers revenging their Losses."
+    title="Slavers revenging their Losses." /><br />
+    <b>Slavers revenging
+    their Losses.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><a name="Page_56"
+  id="Page_56"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers.
+    Mtarika's. Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans.
+    Dismay of slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyan
+    metropolis. Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores
+    stolen cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and
+    healthiness of climate. The Waiyan people and their
+    peculiarities. Regrets at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's
+    plans.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>19th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;We passed a woman tied by the
+  neck to a tree and dead, the people of the country explained that
+  she had been unable to keep up with the other slaves in a gang,
+  and her master had determined that she should not become the
+  property of anyone else if she recovered after resting for a
+  time. I may mention here that we saw others tied up in a similar
+  manner, and one lying in the path shot or stabbed<a name=
+  "FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>, for she was in a
+  pool of blood. The explanation we got invariably was that the
+  Arab who owned these victims was enraged at losing his money by
+  the slaves becoming unable to march, and vented his spleen by
+  murdering them; but I have nothing more than common report in
+  support of attributing this enormity to the Arabs.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Having returned to Metaba, we
+  were told by Kinazomb&eacute;, the chief, that no one had grain
+  to sell but <a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>himself. He had
+  plenty of powder and common cloth from the Arabs, and our only
+  chance with him was parting with our finer cloths and other
+  things that took his fancy. He magnified the scarcity in front in
+  order to induce us to buy all we could from him, but he gave me
+  an ample meal of porridge and guinea-fowl before starting.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st June, 1866.</i>&mdash;We had difficulties about
+  carriers, but on reaching an island in the Rovuma, called
+  Chimiki, we found the people were Makoa and more civil and
+  willing to work than the Waiyau: we sent men back to bring up the
+  havildar to a very civil headman called Chirikaloma.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd June, 1866.</i>&mdash;A poor little boy with prolapsus
+  ani was carried yesterday by his mother many a weary mile, lying
+  over her right shoulder&mdash;the only position he could find
+  ease in,&mdash;an infant at the breast occupied the left arm, and
+  on her head were carried two baskets. The mother's love was seen
+  in binding up the part when we halted, whilst the coarseness of
+  low civilization was evinced in the laugh with which some black
+  brutes looked at the sufferer.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd June, 1866.</i>&mdash;The country is covered with
+  forest, much more open than further east. We are now some 800
+  feet above the sea. The people all cultivate maize near the
+  Rovuma, and on islands where moisture helps them, nearly all
+  possess guns, and plenty of powder and fine beads,&mdash;red ones
+  strung on the hair, and fine blue ones in rolls on the neck,
+  fitted tightly like soldiers' stocks. The lip-ring is universal;
+  teeth filed to points.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;Immense quantities of wood are
+  cut down, collected in heaps, and burned to manure the land, but
+  this does not prevent the country having an appearance of forest.
+  Divine service at 8.30 A.M.; great numbers looking on. They have
+  a clear idea of the Supreme Being, but do not pray to Him.. Cold
+  south winds prevail; temp. 55&deg;. One of the mules is very
+  ill&mdash;it was left with the havildar when we went back to
+  Ngozo, and probably remained uncovered at night, for as <a name=
+  "Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>soon as we saw it, illness was plainly
+  visible. Whenever an animal has been in their power the sepoys
+  have abused it. It is difficult to feel charitably to fellows
+  whose scheme seems to have been to detach the Nassick boys from
+  me first, then, when the animals were all killed, the Johanna
+  men, afterwards they could rule me as they liked, or go back and
+  leave me to perish; but I shall try to feel as charitably as I
+  can in spite of it all, for the mind has a strong tendency to
+  brood over the ills of travel. I told the havildar when I came up
+  to him at Metaba what I had done, and that I was very much
+  displeased with the sepoys for compassing my failure, if not
+  death; an unkind word had never passed my lips to them: to this
+  he could bear testimony. He thought that they would only be a
+  plague and trouble to me, but he "would go on and die with
+  me."</p>
+
+  <p>Stone boiling is unknown in these countries, but ovens are
+  made in anthills. Holes are dug in the ground for baking the
+  heads of large game, as the zebra, feet of elephants, humps of
+  rhinoceros, and the production of fire by drilling between the
+  palms of the hands is universal. It is quite common to see the
+  sticks so used attached to the clothing or bundles in travelling;
+  they wet the blunt end of the upright stick with the tongue, and
+  dip it in the sand to make some particles of silica adhere before
+  inserting it in the horizontal piece. The wood of a certain wild
+  fig-tree is esteemed as yielding fire readily.</p>
+
+  <p>In wet weather they prefer to carry fire in the dried balls of
+  elephants' dung which are met with&mdash;the male's being about
+  eight inches in diameter and about a foot long: they also employ
+  the stalk of a certain plant which grows on rocky places for the
+  same purpose.</p>
+
+  <p>We bought a senz&eacute;, or <i>Aulacaudatus
+  Swindernianus</i>, which had been dried over a slow fire. This
+  custom of drying fish, flesh, and fruits, on stages over slow
+  fires, is practised very generally: the use of salt for
+  preservation is unknown. <a name="Page_59" id=
+  "Page_59"></a>Besides stages for drying, the Makond&eacute; use
+  them about six feet high for sleeping on instead of the damp
+  ground: a fire beneath helps to keep off the mosquitoes, and they
+  are used by day as convenient resting-places and for
+  observation.</p>
+
+  <p>Pottery seems to have been known to the Africans from the
+  remotest times, for fragments are found everywhere, even among
+  the oldest fossil bones in the country. Their pots for cooking,
+  holding water and beer, are made by the women, and the form is
+  preserved by the eye alone, for no sort of machine is ever used.
+  A foundation or bottom is first laid, and a piece of bone or
+  bamboo used to scrape the clay or to smooth over the pieces which
+  are added to increase the roundness; the vessel is then left a
+  night: the next morning a piece is added to the rim&mdash;as the
+  air is dry several rounds may be added&mdash;and all is then
+  carefully smoothed off; afterwards it is thoroughly sun-dried. A
+  light fire of dried cow-dung, or corn-stalks, or straw, and grass
+  with twigs, is made in a hole in the ground for the final baking.
+  Ornaments are made on these pots of black lead, or before being
+  hardened by the sun they are ornamented for a couple or three
+  inches near the rim, all the tracery being in imitation of
+  plaited basket work.</p>
+
+  <p>Chirikaloma says that the surname of the Makoa, to whom he
+  belongs, is Mirazi&mdash;others have the surname Melola or
+  Malola&mdash;Chimposola. All had the half-moon mark when in the
+  south-east, but now they leave it off a good deal and adopt the
+  Waiyau marks, because of living in their country. They show no
+  indications of being named after beasts and birds. Mirazi was an
+  ancestor; they eat all clean animals, but refuse the hyaena,
+  leopard, or any beast that devours dead men.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a><i>25th June,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;On leaving Chirikaloma we came on to Namalo,
+  whose village that morning had been deserted, the people moving
+  off in a body towards the Matambw&eacute; country, where food is
+  more abundant. A poor little girl was left in one of the huts
+  from being too weak to walk, probably an orphan. The Arab
+  slave-traders flee from the path as soon as they hear of our
+  approach. The Rovuma is from 56 to 80 yards wide here. No food to
+  be had for either love or money.</p>
+
+  <p>Near many of the villages we observe a wand bent and both ends
+  inserted into the ground: a lot of medicine, usually the bark of
+  trees, is buried beneath it. When sickness is in a village, the
+  men proceed to the spot, wash themselves with the medicine and
+  water, creep through beneath the bough, then bury the medicine
+  and the evil influence together. This is also used to keep off
+  evil spirits, wild beasts, and enemies.</p>
+
+  <p>Chirikaloma told us of a child in his tribe which was deformed
+  from his birth. He had an abortive toe where his knee should have
+  been; some said to his mother, "Kill him;" but she replied, "How
+  can I kill my son?" He grew up and had many fine sons and
+  daughters, but none deformed like himself: this was told in
+  connection with an answer to my question about the treatment of
+  Albinoes: he said they did not kill them, but they never grew to
+  manhood. On inquiring if he had ever heard of cannibals, or
+  people with tails, he replied, "Yes, but we have always
+  understood that these and other monstrosities are met with only
+  among you sea-going people." The other monstrosities he referred
+  to were those who are said to have eyes behind the head as well
+  as in front: I have heard of them before, but then I was near
+  Angola, in the west.</p>
+
+  <p>The rains are expected here when the Pleiades appear in the
+  east soon after sunset; they go by the same name here as further
+  south&mdash;Lemila or the "hoeings."</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>In the route along the
+  Rovuma, we pass among people who are so well supplied with white
+  calico by the slave-trade from Kilwa, that it is quite a drug in
+  the market: we cannot get food for it. If we held on westwards we
+  should cross several rivers flowing into the Rovuma from the
+  southward, as the Zandulo, the Sanjenz&eacute;, the Lochiringo,
+  and then, in going round the north end of Nyassa, we should pass
+  among the Nindi, who now inhabit the parts vacated by the Mazitu,
+  and imitate them in having shields and in marauding. An Arab
+  party went into their country, and got out again only by paying a
+  whole bale of calico; it would not be wise in me to venture there
+  at present, but if we return this way we may; meanwhile we shall
+  push on to Mataka, who is only a few days off from the middle of
+  the Lake, and has abundance of provisions.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;My last mule died. In coming
+  along in the morning we were loudly accosted by a well-dressed
+  woman who had just had a very heavy slave-taming stick put on her
+  neck; she called in such an authoritative tone to us to witness
+  the flagrant injustice of which she was the victim that all the
+  men stood still and went to hear the case. She was a near
+  relative of Chirikaloma, and was going up the river to her
+  husband, when the old man (at whose house she was now a prisoner)
+  caught her, took her servant away from her, and kept her in the
+  degraded state we saw. The withes with which she was bound were
+  green and sappy. The old man said in justification that she was
+  running away from Chirikaloma, and he would be offended with him
+  if he did not secure her.</p>
+
+  <p>I asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly tone what he
+  expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said, "Nothing."
+  Several slaver-looking fellows came about, and I felt sure that
+  the woman had been seized in order to sell her to them, so I gave
+  the captor a cloth to pay to Chirikaloma if he were offended, and
+  told him to say <a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>that I,
+  feeling ashamed to see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had
+  released her, and would, take her on to her husband.</p>
+
+  <p>She is evidently a lady among them, having many fine beads and
+  some strung on elephant's hair: she has a good deal of spirit
+  too, for on being liberated she went into the old man's house and
+  took her basket and calabash. A virago of a wife shut the door
+  and tried to prevent her, as well as to cut off the beads from
+  her person, but she resisted like a good one, and my men thrust
+  the door open and let her out, but minus her slave. The other
+  wife&mdash;for old officious had two&mdash;joined her sister in a
+  furious tirade of abuse, the elder holding her sides in regular
+  fishwife fashion till I burst into a laugh, in which the younger
+  wife joined. I explained to the different headmen in front of
+  this village what I had done, and sent messages to Chirikaloma
+  explanatory of my friendly deed to his relative, so that no
+  misconstruction should be put on my act.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="fp062" id="fp062"></a> <img src="images/fp062.jpg"
+    width="500" height="271" alt="Slaves abandonned." title=
+    "Slaves abandonned." /><br />
+    <b>Slaves abandonned.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>We passed a slave woman shot or stabbed through the body and
+  lying on the path: a group of mon stood about a hundred yards off
+  on one side, and another of women on the other side, looking on;
+  they said an Arab who passed early that morning had done it in
+  anger at losing the price he had given for her, because she was
+  unable to walk any longer.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;To-day we came upon a man dead
+  from starvation, as he was very thin. One of our men wandered and
+  found a number of slaves with slave-sticks on, abandoned by their
+  master from want of food; they were too weak to be able to speak
+  or say where they had come from; some were quite young. We
+  crossed the Tulosi, a stream coming from south, about twenty
+  yards wide.</p>
+
+  <p>At Chenjewala's the people are usually much startled when I
+  explain that the numbers of slaves we see dead on the road have
+  been killed partly by those who sold them, <a name="Page_63" id=
+  "Page_63"></a>for I tell them that if they sell their fellows,
+  they are like the man who holds the victim while the Arab
+  performs the murder.</p>
+
+  <p>Chenjewala blamed Machemba, a chief above him on the Rovuma,
+  for encouraging the slave-trade; I told him I had travelled so
+  much among them that I knew all the excuses they could make, each
+  headman blamed some one else.</p>
+
+  <p>"It would be better if you kept your people and cultivated
+  more largely," said I, "Oh, Machemba sends his men and robs our
+  gardens after we have cultivated," was the reply. One man said
+  that the Arabs who come and tempt them with fine clothes are the
+  cause of their selling: this was childish, so I told them they
+  would very soon have none to sell: their country was becoming
+  jungle, and all their people who did not die in the road would be
+  making gardens for Arabs at Kilwa and elsewhere.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;When we got about an hour from
+  Chenjewala's we came to a party in the act of marauding; the
+  owners of the gardens made off for the other side of the river,
+  and waved to us to go against the people of Machemba, but we
+  stood on a knoll with all our goods on the ground, and waited to
+  see how matters would turn out. Two of the marauders came to us
+  and said they had captured five people. I suppose they took us
+  for Arabs, as they addressed Musa. They then took some green
+  maize, and so did some of my people, believing that as all was
+  going, they who were really starving might as well have a
+  share.</p>
+
+  <p>I went on a little way with the two marauders, and by the
+  footprints thought the whole party might amount to four or five
+  with guns; the gardens and huts were all deserted. A poor woman
+  was sitting, cooking green maize, and one of the men ordered her
+  to follow him. I said to him, "Let her alone, she is dying."
+  "Yes," said he, "of hunger," and went'on without her.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>We passed village after
+  village, and gardens all deserted! We were now between two
+  contending parties. We slept at one garden; and as we were told
+  by Chenjewala's people to take what we liked, and my men had no
+  food, we gleaned what congo beans, bean leaves, and sorghum
+  stalks we could,&mdash;poor fare enough, but all we could
+  get.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th June, 1866.</i>&mdash;We came onto Machemba's brother,
+  Chimseia, who gave us food at once. The country is now covered
+  with deeper soil, and many large acacia-trees grow in the rich
+  loam: the holms too are large, and many islands afford convenient
+  maize grounds. One of the Nassiek lads came up and reported his
+  bundle, containing 240 yards of calico, had been stolen; he went
+  aside, leaving it on the path (probably fell asleep), and it was
+  gone when he came back. I cannot impress either on them or the
+  sepoys that it is wrong to sleep on the march.</p>
+
+  <p>Akosakon&eacute;, whom we had liberated, now arrived at the
+  residence of her husband, who was another brother of Machemba.
+  She behaved like a lady all through, sleeping at a fire apart
+  from the men. The ladies of the different villages we passed
+  condoled with her, and she related to them the indignity that had
+  been done to her. Besides this she did us many services: she
+  bought food for us, because, having a good address, we saw that
+  she could get double what any of our men could purchase for the
+  same cloth; she spoke up for us when any injustice was attempted,
+  and, when we were in want of carriers, volunteered to carry a bag
+  of beads on her head. On arriving at Machemba's brother,
+  Chimseia, she introduced me to him, and got him to be liberal to
+  us in food on account of the service we had rendered to her. She
+  took leave of us all with many expressions of thankfulness, and
+  we were glad that we had not mistaken her position or lavished
+  kindness on the undeserving.</p>
+
+  <p>One Johanna man was caught stealing maize, then another,
+  <a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>after I had paid for the
+  first. I sent a request to the chief not to make much of a
+  grievance about it, as I was very much ashamed at my men
+  stealing; he replied that he had liked me from the first, and I
+  was not to fear, as whatever service he could do he would most
+  willingly in order to save me pain and trouble. A sepoy now came
+  up having given his musket to a man to carry, who therefore
+  demanded payment. As it had become a regular nuisance for the
+  sepoys to employ people to carry for them, telling them that I
+  would pay, I demanded why he had promised in my name. "Oh, it was
+  but a little way he carried the musket," said he. Chimseia warned
+  us next morning, 30th June, against allowing any one to straggle
+  or steal in front, for stabbing and plundering were the rule. The
+  same sepoy who had employed a man to carry his musket now came
+  forward, with his eyes fixed and shaking all over. This, I was to
+  understand, meant extreme weakness; but I had accidentally
+  noticed him walking quite smartly before this exhibition, so I
+  ordered him to keep close to the donkey that carried the
+  havildar's luggage, and on no account to remain behind the party.
+  He told the havildar that he would sit down only for a little
+  while; and, I suppose, fell asleep, for he came up to us in the
+  evening as naked as a robin.</p>
+
+  <p>I saw another person bound to a tree and dead&mdash;a sad
+  sight to see, whoever was the perpetrator. So many slave-sticks
+  lie along our path, that I suspect the people here-about make a
+  practice of liberating what slaves they cian find abandoned on
+  the march, to sell them again.</p>
+
+  <p>A large quantity of maize is cultivated at Chimsaka's, at
+  whose place we this day arrived. We got a supply, but being among
+  thieves, we thought it advisable to move on to the next place
+  (Mtarika's). When starting, we found that fork, kettle, pot, and
+  shot-pouch had been taken. The thieves, I observed, kept up a
+  succession of jokes with <a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>Chuma
+  and Wikatani and when the latter was enjoying them, gaping to the
+  sky, they were busy putting the things of which he had charge
+  under their cloths! I spoke to the chief, and he got the three
+  first articles back for me.</p>
+
+  <p>A great deal if not all the lawlessness of this quarter is the
+  result of the slave-trade, for the Arabs buy whoever is brought
+  to them and in a country covered with forest as this is,
+  kidnapping can be prosecuted with the greatest ease; elsewhere
+  the people are honest, and have a regard for justice.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st July, 1866.</i>&mdash;As we approach Mtarika's place,
+  the country becomes more mountainous and the land sloping for a
+  mile down to the south bank of the Rovuma supports a large
+  population. Some were making new gardens by cutting down trees
+  and piling the branches for burning; others had stored tip large
+  quantities of grain and were moving it to a new locality, but
+  they were all so well supplied with calico (Merikano) that they
+  would not look at ours: the market was in fact glutted by slavers
+  from (Quiloa) Kilwa. On asking why people were seen tied to trees
+  to die as we had seen them, they gave the usual answer that the
+  Arabs tie them thus and leave them to perish, because they are
+  vexed, when the slaves can walk no further, that they have lost
+  their money by them. The path is almost strewed with
+  slave-sticks, and though the people denied it, I suspect that
+  they make a practice of following slave caravans and cutting off
+  the sticks from those who fall out in the march, and thus
+  stealing them. By selling them again they get the quantities of
+  cloth we see. Some asked for gaudy prints, of which we had none,
+  because we knew that the general taste of the Africans of the
+  Interior is for strength rather than show in what they buy.</p>
+
+  <p>The Rovuma here is about 100 yards broad, and still keeps up
+  its character of a rapid stream, with sandy banks and <a name=
+  "Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>islands: the latter are generally
+  occupied, as being defensible when the river is in flood.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd July, 1866.</i>&mdash;We rested at Mtarika's old place;
+  and though we had to pay dearly with our best
+  table-cloths<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id=
+  "FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class=
+  "fnanchor">[14]</a> for it, we got as much as made one meal a
+  day. At the same dear rate we could give occasionally only two
+  ears of maize to each man; and if the sepoys got their comrades'
+  corn into their hands, they eat it without shame. We had to bear
+  a vast amount of staring, for the people, who are Waiyau, have a
+  great deal of curiosity, and are occasionally rather rude. They
+  have all heard of our wish to stop the slave-trade, and are
+  rather taken aback when told that by selling they are part and
+  part guilty of the mortality of which we had been unwilling
+  spectators. Some were dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of
+  their Maker they are parties to the destruction of human life
+  which accompanies this traffic both by sea and land. If they did
+  not sell, the Arabs would not come to buy. Chuma and Wakatani
+  render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau, most of the people
+  being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling of slaves. Chimseia,
+  Chimsaka, Mtarika, Mtend&eacute;, Makanjela, Mataka, and all the
+  chiefs and people in our route to the Lake, are Waiyau, or
+  Waiau.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p>
+
+  <p>On the southern slope down to the river there are many oozing
+  springs and damp spots where rice has been sown and reaped. The
+  adjacent land has yielded large crops of sorghum, congo-beans,
+  and pumpkins. Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My
+  appearance and acts often cause a burst of laughter; sudden
+  standing up produces a flight of women and children. To prevent
+  peeping into the hut which I occupy, and making the place quite
+  dark, I do my writing in the verandah. Chitan&eacute;, the poodle
+  dog, the <a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>buffalo-calf, and our
+  only remaining donkey are greeted with the same amount of
+  curiosity and laughter-exciting comment as myself.</p>
+
+  <p>Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard from
+  the different villages along the river; these are imitation
+  evening guns. All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing tobacco
+  with "nora" lime, made from burnt river shells instead of
+  betel-nut and lime. The women are stout, well-built persons, with
+  thick arms and legs; their heads incline to the bullet shape; the
+  lip-rings are small; the tattoo a mixture of Makoa and Waiyau.
+  Fine blue and black beads are in fashion, and so are arm-coils of
+  thick brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are worn in the hair;
+  the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got from the root
+  of an orchis called <i>Nangazu</i>.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd July, 1866.</i>&mdash;A short march brought us to
+  Mtarika's new place. The chief made his appearance only after he
+  had ascertained all he could about us. The population is immense;
+  they are making new gardens, and the land is laid out by straight
+  lines about a foot broad, cut with the hoe; one goes miles
+  without getting beyond the marked or surveyed fields.</p>
+
+  <p>Mtarika came at last; a big ugly man, with large mouth and
+  receding forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, as the
+  watch, revolver, breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave him a
+  lecture on the evil of selling his people, and he wished me to
+  tell all the other chiefs the same thing.</p>
+
+  <p>They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for
+  having sold many who have lost their lives on their way down to
+  the sea-coast. We had a long visit from Mtarika next day; he gave
+  us meal, and meat of wild hog, with a salad made of bean-leaves.
+  A wretched Swaheli Arab, ill with rheumatism, came for aid, and
+  got a cloth. They all profess to me to be buying ivory only.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a><i>5th July,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;We left for Mtend&eacute;, who is the last chief
+  before we enter on a good eight days' march to Mataka's; we might
+  have gone to Kandulo's, who is near the Rovuma, and more to the
+  north, but all are so well supplied with everything by
+  slave-traders that we have difficulty in getting provisions at
+  all. Mataka has plenty of all kinds of food. On the way we passed
+  the burnt bones of a person Avho was accused of having eaten
+  human flesh; he had been poisoned, or, as they said, killed by
+  poison (muave?), and then burned. His clothes were hung, up on
+  trees by the wayside as a warning to others. The country was
+  covered with scraggy forest, but so undulating that one could
+  often see all around from the crest of the waves. Great mountain
+  masses appear in the south and south-west. It feels cold, and the
+  sky is often overcast.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;I took lunars yesterday, after
+  which Mtend&eacute; invited us to eat at his house where he had
+  provided a large mess of rice porridge and bean-leaves as a
+  relish. He says that many Arabs pass him and many of them die in
+  their journeys. He knows no deaf or dumb person in the country.
+  He says that he cuts the throats of all animals to be eaten, and
+  does not touch lion or hyaena.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;We got men from Mtend&eacute; to
+  carry loads and show the way. He asked a cloth to ensure his
+  people going to the journey's end and behaving properly; this is
+  the only case of anything like tribute being demanded in this
+  journey: I gave him a cloth worth 5s. 6d. Upland vegetation
+  prevails; trees are dotted here and there among bushes five feet
+  high, and fine blue and yellow flowers are common. We pass over a
+  succession of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley has a
+  running stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full
+  bloom, and also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath
+  the flowers.</p>
+
+  <p>When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead lining, I
+  only reproved him and promised him punishment <a name="Page_70"
+  id="Page_70"></a>if he committed any other wilful offence, but
+  now he and another skulked behind and gave their loads to a
+  stranger to carry, with a promise to him that I would pay. We
+  waited two hours for them; and as the havildar said that they
+  would not obey him, I gave Perim and the other some smart cuts
+  with a cane, but I felt that I was degrading myself, and resolved
+  not to do the punishment myself again.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;Hard travelling through a
+  depopulated country. The trees are about the size of hop-poles
+  with abundance of tall grass; the soil is sometimes a little
+  sandy, at other times that reddish, clayey sort which yields
+  native grain so well. The rock seen uppermost is often a
+  ferruginous conglomerate, lying on granite rocks. The gum-copal
+  tree is here a mere bush, and no digging takes place for the gum:
+  it is called Mchenga, and yields gum when wounded, as also bark,
+  cloth, and cordage when stripped. Mountain masses are all around
+  us; we sleep at Linata mountain.</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;The Masuko fruit abounds: the
+  name is the same here as in the Batoka country; there are also
+  rhododendrons of two species, but the flowers white. We slept in
+  a wild spot, near Mount Leziro, with many lions roaring about us;
+  one hoarse fellow serenaded us a long time, but did nothing more.
+  Game is said to be abundant, but we saw none, save an occasional
+  diver springing away from the path. Some streams ran to the
+  north-west to the Lismyando, which flows N. for the Rovuma;
+  others to the south-east for the Loendi.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th and 11th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;Nothing to interest but
+  the same weary trudge: our food so scarce that we can only give a
+  handful or half a pound of grain to each person per day. The
+  Masuko fruit is formed, but not ripe till rains begin; very few
+  birds are seen or heard, though there is both food and water in
+  the many grain-bearing grasses and running streams, which we
+  cross at the junction of every two ridges. <a name="Page_71" id=
+  "Page_71"></a>A dead body lay in a hut by the wayside; the poor
+  thing had begun to make a garden by the stream, probably in hopes
+  of living long enough (two months or so) on wild fruits to reap a
+  crop of maize.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;A drizzling mist set in during
+  the night and continued this morning, we set off in the dark,
+  however, leaving our last food for the havildar and sepoys who
+  had not yet come up. The streams are now of good size. An Arab
+  brandy bottle was lying broken in one village called Msapa. We
+  hurried on as fast as we could to the Luatiz&eacute;, our last
+  stage before getting to Mataka's; this stream is rapid, about
+  forty yards wide, waist deep, with many podostemons on the
+  bottom. The country gets more and more undulating and is covered
+  with masses of green foliage, chiefly Masuko trees, which have
+  large hard leaves. There are hippopotami further down the river
+  on its way to the Loendi. A little rice which had been kept for
+  me I divided, but some did not taste food.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;A good many stragglers behind,
+  but we push on to get food and send it back to them. The soil all
+  reddish clay, the roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of
+  many of us are weary and sore: a weary march and long, for it is
+  perpetually up and down now. I counted fifteen running streams in
+  one day: they are at the bottom of the valley which separates the
+  ridges. We got to the brow of a ridge about an hour from Mataka's
+  first gardens, and all were so tired that we remained to sleep;
+  but we first invited volunteers to go on and buy food, and bring
+  it back early next morning: they had to be pressed to do this
+  duty.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;As our volunteers did not come
+  at 8 A.M., I set off to see the cause, and after an hour of
+  perpetual up and down march, as I descended the steep slope which
+  overlooks the first gardens, I saw my friends start up at the
+  apparition&mdash;they were comfortably cooking porridge for
+  <a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>themselves! I sent men of
+  Mataka back with food to the stragglers behind and came on to his
+  town.</p>
+
+  <p>An Arab, Sef Rupia or Rubea, head of a large body of slaves,
+  on his way to the coast, most kindly came forward and presented
+  an ox, bag of flour, and some cooked meat, all of which were
+  extremely welcome to half-famished men, or indeed under any
+  circumstances. He had heard of our want of food and of a band of
+  sepoys, and what could the English think of doing but putting an
+  end to the slave-trade? Had he seen our wretched escort, all fear
+  of them would have vanished! He had a large safari or caravan
+  under him. This body is usually divided into ten or twelve
+  portions, and all are bound to obey the leader to &aacute;
+  certain extent: in this case there were eleven parties, and the
+  traders numbered about sixty or seventy, who were dark coast
+  Arabs. Each underling had his men under him, and when I saw them
+  they were busy making the pens of branches in which their slaves
+  and they sleep. Sef came on with me to Mataka's, and introduced
+  me in due form with discharges of gunpowder. I asked him to come
+  back next morning, and presented three cloths with a request that
+  he would assist the havildar and sepoys, if he met them, with
+  food: this he generously did.</p>
+
+  <p>We found Mataka's town situated in an elevated valley
+  surrounded by mountains; the houses numbered at least 1000, and
+  there were many villages around. The mountains were pleasantly
+  green, and had many trees which the people were incessantly
+  cutting down. They had but recently come here: they were besieged
+  by Mazitu at their former location west of this; after fighting
+  four days they left unconquered, having beaten the enemy off.</p>
+
+  <p>Mataka kept us waiting some time in the verandah of his large
+  square house, and then made his appearance, smiling with his
+  good-natured face. He is about sixty years of age, dressed as an
+  Arab, and if we may judge <a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>from
+  the laughter with which his remarks were always greeted, somewhat
+  humorous. He had never seen any but Arabs before. He gave me a
+  square house to live in, indeed the most of the houses here are
+  square, for the Arabs are imitated in everything: they have
+  introduced the English pea, and we were pleased to see large
+  patches of it in full bearing, and ripe in moist hollows which
+  had been selected for it. The numerous springs which come out at
+  various parts are all made use of. Those parts which are too wet
+  are drained, whilst beds are regularly irrigated by water-courses
+  and ridges: we had afterwards occasion to admire the very
+  extensive draining which has been effected among the hills.
+  Cassava is cultivated on ridges along all the streets in the
+  town, which give it a somewhat regular and neat appearance. Peas
+  and tobacco were the chief products raised by irrigation, but
+  batatas and maize were often planted too: wheat would succeed if
+  introduced. The altitude is about 2700 feet above the sea: the
+  air at this time is cool, and many people have coughs.</p>
+
+  <p>Mataka soon sent a good mess of porridge and cooked meat
+  (beef); he has plenty of cattle and sheep: and the next day he
+  sent abundance of milk. We stand a good deal of staring unmoved,
+  though it is often accompanied by remarks by no means
+  complimentary; they think that they are not understood, and
+  probably I do misunderstand sometimes. The Waiyau jumble their
+  words as I think, and Mataka thought that I did not enunciate
+  anything, but kept my tongue still when I spoke.</p>
+
+  <p>Town of Matak, Moemb&eacute;. <i>15th July,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;The safari under Sef set off this morning for
+  Kilwa. Sef says that about 100 of the Kilwa people died this
+  year, so slaving as well as philanthropy is accompanied with loss
+  of life: we saw about seven of their graves; the rest died on the
+  road up.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>There are two roads from
+  this to the Lake, one to Los&eacute;wa, which is west of this,
+  and opposite Kotakota; the other, to Makatu, is further south:
+  the first is five days through deserted country chiefly; but the
+  other, seven, among people and plenty of provisions all the
+  way.</p>
+
+  <p>It struck me after Sef had numbered up the losses that the
+  Kilwa people sustained by death in their endeavours to
+  &laquo;nslave people, similar losses on the part of those who go
+  to "proclaim liberty to the captives, the opening of the prison
+  to them that are bound,"&mdash;to save and elevate, need not be
+  made so very much of as they sometimes are.</p>
+
+  <p>Soon after our arrival we heard that a number of Mataka's
+  Waiyau had, without his knowledge, gone to Nyassa, and in a foray
+  carried off cattle and people: when they came home with the
+  spoil, Mataka ordered all to be sent back whence they came. The
+  chief came up to visit me soon after, and I told him that his
+  decision was the best piece of news I had heard in the country:
+  he was evidently pleased with my approbation, and, turning to his
+  people, asked if they heard what I said. He repeated my remark,
+  and said, "You silly fellows think me wrong in returning the
+  captives, but all wise men will approve of it," and he then
+  scolded them roundly.</p>
+
+  <p>I was accidentally spectator of this party going back, for on
+  going out of the town I saw a meat market opened, and people
+  buying with maize and meal. On inquiring, I was told that the
+  people and cattle there were the Nyassas, and they had
+  slaughtered an ox, in order to exchange meat for grain as
+  provisions on the journey. The women and children numbered
+  fifty-four, and about a dozen boys were engaged in milking the
+  cows: the cattle were from twenty-five to thirty head.</p>
+
+  <p>The change from hard and scanty fare caused illness in several
+  of our party. I had tasted no animal food except what
+  turtle-doves and guinea-fowls could be shot <a name="Page_75" id=
+  "Page_75"></a>since we passed Matawatawa,&mdash;true, a fowl was
+  given by Mtend&eacute;. The last march was remarkable for the
+  scarcity of birds, so eight days were spent on porridge and rice
+  without relish.</p>
+
+  <p>I gave Mataka a trinket, to be kept in remembrance of his
+  having sent back the Nyassa people: he replied that he would
+  always act in a similar manner. As it was a spontaneous act, it
+  was all the more valuable.</p>
+
+  <p>The sepoys have become quite intolerable, and if I cannot get
+  rid of them we shall all starve before we accomplish what we
+  wish. They dawdle behind picking up wild fruits, and over our
+  last march (which we accomplished on the morning of the eighth
+  day) they took from fourteen to twenty-two days. Retaining their
+  brutal feelings to the last they killed the donkey which I lent
+  to the havildar to carry his things, by striking it on the head
+  when in boggy places into which they had senselessly driven it
+  loaded; then the havildar came on (his men pretending they could
+  go no further from weakness), and killed the young buffalo and
+  eat it when they thought they could hatch up a plausible story.
+  They said it had died, and tigers came and devoured it&mdash;they
+  saw them. "Did you see the stripes of the tiger?" said I. All
+  declared that they saw the stripes distinctly. This gave us an
+  idea of their truthfulness, as there is no striped tiger in all
+  Africa. All who resolved on skulking or other bad behaviour
+  invariably took up with the sepoys; their talk seemed to suit
+  evil-doers, and they were such a disreputable-looking lot that I
+  was quite ashamed of them. The havildar had no authority, and all
+  bore the sulky dogged look of people going where they were forced
+  but hated to go. This hang-dog expression of countenance was so
+  conspicuous that I many a time have heard the country people
+  remark, "These are the slaves of the party." They have neither
+  spirit nor pluck as compared with the Africans, and if one saw a
+  village he turned <a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>out of the
+  way to beg in the most abject manner, or lay down and slept, the
+  only excuse afterwards being, "My legs were sore." Having allowed
+  some of them to sleep at the fire in my house, they began a
+  wholesale plunder of everything they could sell, as cartridges,
+  cloths, and meat, so I had to eject them. One of them then
+  threatened to shoot my interpreter Simon if he got him in a quiet
+  place away from the English power. As this threat had been
+  uttered three times, and I suspect that something of the kind had
+  prevented the havildar exerting his authority, I resolved to get
+  rid of them by sending them back to the coast by the first
+  trader. It is likely that some sympathizers will take their part,
+  but I strove to make them useful. They had but poor and scanty
+  fare in a part of the way, but all of us suffered alike. They
+  made themselves thoroughly disliked by their foul talk and abuse,
+  and if anything tended more than another to show me that theirs
+  was a moral unfitness for travel, it was the briskness assumed
+  when they knew they were going back to the coast. I felt inclined
+  to force them on, but it would have been acting from revenge, and
+  to pay them out, so I forbore. I gave Mataka forty-eight yards of
+  calico, and to the sepoys eighteen yards, and arranged that he
+  should give them food till Suleiman, a respectable trader, should
+  arrive. He was expected every day, and we passed him near the
+  town. If they chose to go and get their luggage, it was of course
+  all safe for them behind. The havildar begged still to go on with
+  me, and I consented, though he is a drag on the party, but he
+  will count in any difficulty.</p>
+
+  <p>Abraham recognised his uncle among the crowds who came to see
+  us. On making himself known he found that his mother and two
+  sisters had been sold to the Arabs after he had been enslaved.
+  The uncle pressed him to remain, and Mataka urged, and so did
+  another uncle, but in vain. I added my voice, and could have
+  given him goods to keep <a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>him
+  afloat a good while, but he invariably replied, "How can I stop
+  where I have no mother and no sister?" The affection seems to go
+  to the maternal side. I suggested that he might come after he had
+  married a wife, but I fear very much that unless some European
+  would settle, none of these Nassick boys will come to this
+  country. It would be decidedly better if they were taught
+  agriculture in the simplest form, as the Indian. Mataka would
+  have liked to put his oxen to use, but Abraham could not help him
+  with that. He is a smith, or rather a nothing, for unless he
+  could smelt iron he would be entirely without materials to work
+  with.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th-28th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;One day, calling at
+  Mataka's, I found as usual a large crowd of idlers, who always
+  respond with a laugh to everything he utters as wit. He asked, if
+  he went to Bombay what ought he to take to secure some gold? I
+  replied, "Ivory," he rejoined, "Would slaves not be a good
+  speculation?" I replied that, "if he took slaves there for sale,
+  they would put him in prison." The idea of the great Mataka in
+  "chokee" made him wince, and the laugh turned for once against
+  him. He said that as all the people from the coast crowd to him,
+  they ought to give him something handsome for being here to
+  supply their wants. I replied, if he would fill the fine
+  well-watered country we had passed over with people instead of
+  sending them off to Kilwa, he would confer a benefit on visitors,
+  but we had been starved on the way to him; and I then told him
+  what the English would do in road-making in a fine country like
+  this. This led us to talk of railways, ships, ploughing with
+  oxen&mdash;the last idea struck him most. I told him that I
+  should have liked some of the Nassick boys to remain and teach
+  this and other things, but they might be afraid to venture lest
+  they should be sold again. The men who listened never heard such
+  decided protests against selling each other into slavery
+  before!</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>The idea of guilt probably
+  floated but vaguely in their minds, but the loss of life we have
+  witnessed (in the guilt of which the sellers as well as the
+  buyers participate) comes home very forcibly to their minds.</p>
+
+  <p>Mataka has been an active hand in slave wars himself, though
+  now he wishes to settle down in quiet. The Waiyau generally are
+  still the most active agents the slave-traders have. The caravan
+  leaders from Kilwa arrive at a Waiyau village, show the goods
+  they have brought, are treated liberally by the elders, and told
+  to wait and enjoy themselves, slaves enough to purchase all will
+  be procured: then a foray is made against the Manganja, who have
+  few or no guns. The Waiyau who come against them are abundantly
+  supplied with both by their coast guests. Several of the low
+  coast Arabs, who differ in nothing from the Waiyau, usually
+  accompany the foray, and do business on their own account: this
+  is the usual way in which a safari is furnished with slaves.</p>
+
+  <p>Makanjela, a Waiyau chief about a third of the way from
+  Mtend&eacute;'s to Mataka, has lost the friendship of all his
+  neighbours by kidnapping and selling their people; if any of
+  Mataka's people are found in the district between Makanjela and
+  Moemb&eacute;, they are considered fair game and sold.
+  Makanjela's people cannot piss Mataka to go to the Manganja, so
+  they do what they can by kidnapping and plundering all who fall
+  into their hands.</p>
+
+  <p>When I employed two of Mataka's people to go back on the 14th
+  with food to the havildar and sepoys, they went a little way and
+  relieved some, but would not venture as far as the
+  Luatiz&eacute;, for fear of losing their liberty by Makanjela's
+  people. I could not get the people of the country to go back; nor
+  could I ask the Nassick boys, who had been threatened by the
+  sepoys with assassination,&mdash;and it was the same with the
+  Johanna men, because, though Mahometans, the sepoys had called
+  them Caffirs, &amp;c., and <a name="Page_79" id=
+  "Page_79"></a>they all declared, "We are ready to do anything for
+  you, but we will do nothing for these Hindis." I sent back a
+  sepoy, giving him provisions; he sat down in the first village,
+  ate all the food, and returned.</p>
+
+  <p>An immense tract of country lies uninhabited. To the
+  north-east of Moemb&eacute; we have at least fifty miles of as
+  fine land as can be seen anywhere, still bearing all the marks of
+  having once supported a prodigious iron-smelting and
+  grain-growing population. The clay pipes which are put on the
+  nozzles of their bellows and inserted into the furnace are met
+  with everywhere&mdash;often vitrified. Then the ridges on which
+  they planted maize, beans, cassava, and sorghum, and which they
+  find necessary to drain off the too abundant moisture of the
+  rains, still remain unlevelled to attest the industry of the
+  former inhabitants; the soil being clayey, resists for a long
+  time the influence of the weather. These ridges are very regular,
+  for in crossing the old fields, as the path often compels us to
+  do, one foot treads regularly on the ridge, and the other in the
+  hollow, for a considerable distance. Pieces of broken pots, with
+  their rims ornamented with very good imitations of basket-work,
+  attest that the lady potters of old followed the example given
+  them by their still more ancient mothers,&mdash;their designs are
+  rude, but better than we can make them without referring to the
+  original.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
+    <a name="p079" id="p079"></a> <img src="images/p079.png" width=
+    "300" height="144" alt="Imitation of basket-work in Pottery."
+    title="Imitation of basket-work in Pottery." /> <b>Imitation of
+    basket-work in Pottery.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>No want of water has here acted to drive the people away, as
+  has been the case further south. It is a perpetual succession of
+  ridge and valley, with a running stream or <a name="Page_80" id=
+  "Page_80"></a>oozing bog, where ridge is separated from ridge:
+  the ridges become steeper and narrower as we approach
+  Mataka's.</p>
+
+  <p>I counted fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards wide
+  in one day's march of about six hours; being in a hilly or rather
+  mountainous region, they flow rapidly and have plenty of
+  water-power. In July any mere torrent ceases to flow, but these
+  were brawling burns with water too cold (61&deg;) for us to bathe
+  in whose pores were all open by the relaxing regions nearer the
+  coast. The sound, so un-African, of gushing water dashing over
+  rocks was quite familiar to our ears.</p>
+
+  <p>This district, which rises up west of Mataka's to 3400 feet
+  above the sea, catches a great deal of the moisture brought up by
+  the easterly winds. Many of the trees are covered with lichens.
+  While here we had cold southerly breezes, and a sky so overcast
+  every day after 10 A.M., that we could take no astronomical
+  observations: even the latitude was too poor to be much depended
+  on. 12&deg; 53' S. may have been a few miles from this.</p>
+
+  <p>The cattle, rather a small breed, black and white in patches,
+  and brown, with humps, give milk which is duly prized by these
+  Waiyau. The sheep are the large-tailed variety, and generally of
+  a black colour. Fowls and pigeons are the only other domestic
+  animals we see, if we except the wretched village dogs which
+  our-poodle had immense delight in chasing.</p>
+
+  <p>The Waiyau are far from a handsome race, but they are not the
+  prognathous beings one sees on the West Coast either. Their heads
+  are of a round shape; compact foreheads, but not particularly
+  receding; the alae nasi are flattened out; lips full, and with
+  the women a small lip-ring just turns them up to give additional
+  thickness. Their style of beauty is exactly that which was in
+  fashion when the stone deities were made in the caves of
+  Elephanta and Kenora near Bombay. &Agrave; favourite mode of
+  dressing <a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>the hair into little
+  knobs, which was in fashion there, is more common in some tribes
+  than in this. The mouths of the women would not be so hideous
+  with a small lip-ring if they did not file their teeth to points,
+  but they seem strong and able for the work which falls to their
+  lot. The men are large, strong-boned fellows, and capable of
+  enduring great fatigue, they undergo a rite which once
+  distinguished the Jews about the age of puberty, and take a new
+  name on the occasion; this was not introduced by the Arabs, whose
+  advent is a recent event, and they speak of the time before they
+  were inundated with European manufactures in exchange for slaves,
+  as quite within their memory.</p>
+
+  <p>Young Mataka gave me a dish of peas, and usually brought
+  something every time he made a visit, he seems a nice boy, and
+  his father, in speaking of learning to read, said he and his
+  companions could learn, but he himself was too old. The soil
+  seems very fertile, for the sweet potatoes become very large, and
+  we bought two loads of them for three cubits and two needles;
+  they quite exceeded 1 cwt. The maize becomes very large too; one
+  cob had 1600 seeds. The abundance of water, the richness of soil,
+  the available labour for building square houses, the coolness of
+  the climate, make this nearly as desirable a residence as
+  Magomero; but, alas! instead of three weeks' easy sail up the
+  Zambesi and Shir&eacute;, we have spent four weary months in
+  getting here: I shall never cease bitterly to lament the
+  abandonment of the Magomero mission.</p>
+
+  <p>Moaning seems a favourite way of spending the time with some
+  sick folk. For the sake of the warmth, I allowed a Nassick boy to
+  sleep in my house; he and I had the same complaint, dysentery,
+  and I was certainly worse than he, but did not moan, while he
+  played at it as often as he was awake. I told him that people
+  moaned only when too ill to be <a name="Page_82" id=
+  "Page_82"></a>sensible of what they were doing; the groaning
+  ceased, though he became worse.</p>
+
+  <p>Three sepoys played at groaning very vigorously outside my
+  door; they had nothing the matter with them, except perhaps
+  fatigue, which we all felt alike; as these fellows prevented my
+  sleeping, I told them quite civilly that, if so ill that they
+  required to groan, they had better move off a little way, as I
+  could not sleep; they preferred the verandah, and at once
+  forbore.</p>
+
+  <p>The abundance of grain and other food is accompanied by great
+  numbers of rats or large mice, which play all manner of pranks by
+  night; white ants have always to be guarded against likewise.
+  Anyone who would find an antidote to drive them away would confer
+  a blessing; the natural check is the driver ant, which when it
+  visits a house is a great pest for a time, but it clears the
+  others out.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> There
+      is a double purpose in these murders; the terror inspired in
+      the minds of the survivors spurs them on to endure the
+      hardships of the march: the Portuese drivers are quite alive
+      to the merits of this stimulus.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> A
+      tribal distinction turns on the customs prevailing with
+      respect to animal food, <i>e.g.</i> one tribe will eat the
+      elephant, the next looks on such flesh as unclean, and so
+      with other meat. The neighbouring Manganja gladly eat the
+      leopard and hyaena.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> A
+      coloured cloth manufactured expressly for barter in East
+      Africa.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> This is
+      pronounced "Y-yow."&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><a name="Page_83"
+  id="Page_83"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's.
+    The Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for
+    the Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The
+    Manganja or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to
+    procure passage across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English
+    amongst slavers. Lake shore. Blue ink. Chitan&eacute; changes
+    colour. The Nsaka fish. Makalaos&eacute; drinks beer. The
+    Sanjika fish. London antiquities. Lake rivers. Mukat&eacute;'s.
+    Lake Pamalomb&eacute;. Mponda's. A slave gang. Wikatani
+    discovers his relatives and remains.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>28th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;We proposed to start to-day, but
+  Mataka said that he was not ready yet: the flour had to be
+  ground, and he had given us no meat. He had sent plenty of cooked
+  food almost every day. He asked if we would slaughter the ox he
+  would give here, or take it on; we preferred to kill it at once.
+  He came on the 28th with a good lot of flour for us, and men to
+  guide us to Nyassa, telling us that this was Moemb&eacute;, and
+  his district extended all the way to the Lake: he would not send
+  us to Los&eacute;wa, as that place had lately been plundered and
+  burned.</p>
+
+  <p>In general the chiefs have shown an anxiety to promote our
+  safety. The country is a mass of mountains. On leaving Mataka's
+  we ascended considerably, and about the end of the first day's
+  march, near Magola's village, the barometer showed our greatest
+  altitude, about 3400 feet above the sea. There were villages of
+  these mountaineers everywhere, for the most part of 100 houses or
+  more each. The springs were made the most use of that they knew;
+  <a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>the damp spots drained, and
+  the water given a free channel for use in irrigation further
+  down: most of these springs showed the presence of iron by the
+  oxide oozing out. A great many patches of peas are seen in full
+  bearing and flower. The trees are small, except in the hollows:
+  there is plenty of grass and flowers near streams and on the
+  heights. The mountain-tops may rise 2000 or 3000 feet above their
+  flanks, along which we wind, going perpetually up and down the
+  steep ridges of which the country is but a succession.</p>
+
+  <p>Looking at the geology of the district, the plateaux on each
+  side of the Rovuma are masses of grey sandstone, capped with
+  masses of ferruginous conglomerate; apparently an aqueous
+  deposit. When we ascend the Rovuma about sixty miles, a great
+  many pieces and blocks of silicified wood appear on the surface
+  of the soil at the bottom of the slope up the plateaux. This in
+  Africa is a sure indication of the presence of coal beneath, but
+  it was not observed cropping out; the plateaux are cut up in
+  various directions by wadys well supplied with grass and trees on
+  deep and somewhat sandy soil: but at the confluence of the Loendi
+  highlands they appear in the far distance. In the sands of the
+  Loendi pieces of coal are quite common.<a name="FNanchor_16_16"
+  id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class=
+  "fnanchor">[16]</a></p>
+
+  <p>Before reaching the confluence of the Rovuma and Loendi, or
+  say about ninety miles from the sea, the plateau is succeeded by
+  a more level country, having detached granitic masses shooting up
+  some 500 or 700 feet. The sandstone of the plateau has at first
+  been hardened, then quite metamorphosed into a chocolate-coloured
+  schist. As at Chilol&eacute; hill, we have igneous rocks,
+  apparently trap, capped with masses of beautiful white dolomite.
+  We still ascend in altitude as we go westwards, and come upon
+  long tracts of gneiss with hornblende. <a name="Page_85" id=
+  "Page_85"></a>The gneiss is often striated, all the striae
+  looking one way&mdash;sometimes north and south, and at other
+  times east and west. These rocks look as if a stratified rock had
+  been nearly melted, and the strata fused together by the heat.
+  From these striated rocks have shot up great rounded masses of
+  granite or syenite, whose smooth sides and crowns contain
+  scarcely any trees, and are probably from 3000 to 4000 feet above
+  the sea. The elevated plains among these mountain masses show
+  great patches of ferruginous conglomerate, which, when broken,
+  look like yellow haematite with madrepore holes in it: this has
+  made the soil of a red colour.</p>
+
+  <p>On the watershed we have still the rounded granitic hills
+  jutting above the plains (if such they may be called) which are
+  all ups and downs, and furrowed with innumerable running rills,
+  the sources of the Rovuma and Loendi. The highest rock observed
+  with mica schist was at an altitude of 3440 feet. The same uneven
+  country prevails as we proceed from the watershed about forty
+  miles down to the Lake, and a great deal of quartz in small
+  fragments renders travelling-very difficult. Near the Lake, and
+  along its eastern shore, we have mica schist and gneiss foliated,
+  with a great deal of hornblende; but the most remarkable feature
+  of it is that the rocks are all tilted on edge, or slightly
+  inclined to the Lake. The active agent in effecting this is not
+  visible. It looks as if a sudden rent had been made, so as to
+  form the Lake, and tilt all these rocks nearly over. On the east
+  side of the lower part of the Lake we have two ranges of
+  mountains, evidently granitic: the nearer one covered with small
+  trees and lower than the other; the other jagged and bare, or of
+  the granitic forms. But in all this country no fossil-yielding
+  rock was visible except the grey sandstone referred to at the
+  beginning of this note. The rocks are chiefly the old crystalline
+  forms.</p>
+
+  <p>One fine straight tall tree in the hollows seemed a species
+  <a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>of fig: its fruit was just
+  forming, but it was too high for me to ascertain its species. The
+  natives don't eat the fruit, but they eat the large grubs which
+  come out of it. The leaves were fifteen inches long by five
+  broad: they call it Unguengo.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;At Magola's village. Although we
+  are now rid of the sepoys, we cannot yet congratulate ourselves
+  on being rid of the lazy habits of lying down in the path which
+  they introduced. A strong scud comes up from the south bringing
+  much moisture with it: it blows so hard above, this may be a
+  storm on the coast. Temperature in mornings 55&deg;.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th July, 1866.</i>&mdash;A short march brought us to
+  Pezimba's village, which consists of 200 houses and huts. It is
+  placed very nicely on a knoll between two burns, which, as usual,
+  are made use of for irrigating peas in winter time. The headman
+  said that if we left now we had a good piece of jungle before us,
+  and would sleep twice in it before reaching Mbanga. We therefore
+  remained. An Arab party, hearing of our approach, took a
+  circuitous route among the mountains to avoid coming in contact
+  with us. In travelling to Pezimba's we had commenced our western
+  descent to the Lake, for we were now lower than Magola's by 300
+  feet. We crossed many rivulets and the Lochesi, a good-sized
+  stream. The watershed parts some streams for Loendi and some for
+  Rovuma. There is now a decided scantiness of trees. Many of the
+  hill-tops are covered with grass or another plant; there is
+  pleasure now in seeing them bare. Ferns, rhododendrons, and a
+  foliaged tree, which looks in the distance like silver-fir, are
+  met with.</p>
+
+  <p>The Mandar&eacute; root is here called Nyumbo, when cooked it
+  has a slight degree of bitterness with it which cultivation may
+  remove. Mica schist crowned some of the heights on the watershed,
+  then gneiss, and now, as we descend further, we have igneous
+  rocks of more recent eruption, porphyry <a name="Page_87" id=
+  "Page_87"></a>and gneiss, with hornblende. A good deal of
+  ferruginous conglomerate, with holes in it, covers many spots;
+  when broken, it looks like yellow haematite, with black linings
+  to the holes: this is probably the ore used in former times by
+  the smiths, of whose existence we now find still more evidence
+  than further east.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st July, 1866.</i>&mdash;I had presented Pezimba with a
+  cloth, so he cooked for us handsomely last night, and this
+  morning desired us to wait a little as he had not yet sufficient
+  meal made to present: we waited and got a generous present.</p>
+
+  <p>It was decidedly milder here than at Mataka's, and we had a
+  clear sky. In our morning's march we passed the last of the
+  population, and went on through a fine well-watered fruitful
+  country, to sleep near a mountain called Mt&eacute;wir&eacute;,
+  by a stream called Msapo. A very large Arab slave-party was close
+  by our encampment, and I wished to speak to them; but as soon as
+  they knew of our being near they set off in a pathless course
+  across country, and were six days in the wilderness.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p>
+
+  <p><i>1st August, 1866.</i>&mdash;We saw the encampment of
+  another Arab party. It consisted of ten pens, each of which, from
+  the number of fires it contained, may have held from eighty to a
+  hundred slaves. The people of the country magnified the numbers,
+  saying that they would reach from this to Mataka's; but from all
+  I can learn, I think that from 300 to 800 slaves is the commoner
+  gang. This second party went across country very early this
+  morning. We saw the fire-sticks which the slaves had borne with
+  them. The fear they feel is altogether the effect of the English
+  name, for we have done nothing to cause their alarm.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd August, 1866.</i>&mdash;There was something very
+  cheering to me in the sight at our encampment of yellow grass and
+  trees dotted over it, as in the Bechuana country. The birds were
+  <a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>singing merrily too, inspired
+  by the cold, which was 47&deg;, and by the vicinity of some
+  population. Gum-copal trees and bushes grow here as well as all
+  over the country; but gum is never dug for, probably because the
+  trees were never large enough to yield the fossil gum. Marks of
+  smiths are very abundant and some furnaces are still standing.
+  Much cultivation must formerly have been where now all is
+  jungle.</p>
+
+  <p>We arrived at Mbanga, a village embowered in trees, chiefly of
+  the euphorbia, so common in the Manganja country further south.
+  Kandulo, the headman, had gone to drink beer at another village,
+  but sent orders to give a hut and to cook for us. We remained
+  next day. Took lunars.</p>
+
+  <p>We had now passed through, at the narrowest part, the hundred
+  miles of depopulated country, of which about seventy are on the
+  N.E. of Mataka. The native accounts differ as to the cause. Some
+  say slave wars, and assert that the Makoa from the vicinity of
+  Mozambique played an important part in them; others say famine;
+  others that the people have moved to and beyond Nyassa.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> Certain it is, from
+  the potsherds strewed over the country, and the still remaining
+  ridges on which beans, sorghum, maize, and cassava, were planted,
+  that the departed population was prodigious. The Waiyau, who are
+  now in the country, came from the other side of the Rovuma, and
+  they probably supplanted the Manganja, an operation which we see
+  going on at the present day.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;An hour and a half brought us
+  to Miul&eacute;, a village on the same level with Mbanga; and the
+  chief pressing us to stay, on the plea of our sleeping two nights
+  in the jungle, instead of one if we left early next morning, we
+  consented. I asked him what had become of the very large <a name=
+  "Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>iron-smelting population of this
+  region; he said many had died of famine, others had fled to the
+  west of Nyassa: the famine is the usual effect of slave wars, and
+  much death is thereby caused&mdash;probably much more than by the
+  journey to the coast. He had never heard any tradition of stone
+  hatchets having been used, nor of stone spear-heads or arrowheads
+  of that material, nor had he heard of any being turned up by the
+  women in hoeing. The Makond&eacute;, as we saw, use wooden spears
+  where iron is scarce. I saw wooden hoes used for tilling the soil
+  in the Bechuana and Bataka countries, but never stone ones. In
+  1841 I saw a Bushwoman in the Cape Colony with a round stone and
+  a hole through it; on being asked she showed me how it was used
+  by inserting the top of a digging-stick into it, and digging a
+  root. The stone was to give the stick weight.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
+    <a name="p089" id="p089"></a> <img src="images/p089.png" width=
+    "300" height="234" alt=
+    "Digging-stick weighted with round Stone." title=
+    "Digging-stick weighted with round Stone." /> <b>Digging-stick
+    weighted with round Stone.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The stones still used as anvils and sledge-hammers by many of
+  the African smiths, when considered from their point of view,
+  show sounder sense than if they were burdened with the great
+  weights we use. They are unacquainted with the process of
+  case-hardening, which, applied to certain parts of our anvils,
+  gives them their usefulness, and an anvil of their soft iron
+  would not do so well as a hard stone. It is true a small light
+  one might be made, but let any one see how the hammers of their
+  iron bevel over and round in the faces with a little work, and he
+  will perceive that only a wild freak would induce any sensible
+  native smith to make a mass equal to a sledge-hammer, and burden
+  himself with a weight for what can be better performed by a
+  stone. If people are settled, as on the coast, then they gladly
+  use any mass of cast iron they may find, but never <a name=
+  "Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>where, as in the interior, they have
+  no certainty of remaining any length of time in one spot.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;We left Miul&eacute;, and
+  commenced our march towards Lake Nyassa, and slept at the last of
+  the streams that flow to the Loendi. In Mataka's vicinity, N.E.,
+  there is a perfect brush of streams flowing to that river: one
+  forms a lake in its course, and the sources of the Rovuma lie in
+  the same region. After leaving Mataka's we crossed a good-sized
+  one flowing to Loendi, and, the day after leaving Pezimba's,
+  another going to the Chiringa or Lochiringa, which is a tributary
+  of the Rovuma.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;We passed two cairns this
+  morning at the beginning of the very sensible descent to the
+  Lake. They are very common in all this Southern Africa in the
+  passes of the mountains, and are meant to mark divisions of
+  countries, perhaps burial-places, but the Waiyau who accompanied
+  us thought that they were merely heaps of stone collected by some
+  one making a garden. The cairns were placed just about the spot
+  where the blue waters of Nyassa first came fairly into view.</p>
+
+  <p>We now came upon a stream, the Misinj&eacute;, flowing into
+  the Lake, and we crossed it five times; it was about twenty yards
+  wide, and thigh deep. We made but short stages when we got on the
+  lower plateau, for the people had great abundance of food, and
+  gave large presents of it if we rested. One man gave four fowls,
+  three large baskets of maize, pumpkins, eland's fat&mdash;a fine
+  male, as seen by his horns,&mdash;and pressed us to stay, that he
+  might see our curiosities as well as others. He said that at one
+  day's distance south of him all sorts of animals, as buffaloes,
+  elands, elephants, hippopotami, and antelopes, could be shot.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;We came to the Lake at the
+  confluence of the Misinj&eacute;, and felt grateful to That Hand
+  which had protected us thus far on our journey. It was as if I
+  had come back to an old home I never expected again to see;
+  <a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>and pleasant to bathe in the
+  delicious waters again, hear the roar of the sea, and dash in the
+  rollers. Temp. 71&deg; at 8 A.M., while the air was 65&deg;. I
+  feel quite exhilarated.</p>
+
+  <p>The headman here, Mokalaos&eacute;, is a real Manganja, and he
+  and all his people exhibit the greater darkness of colour
+  consequent on being in a warm moist climate; he is very friendly,
+  and presented millet, porridge, cassava, and hippopotamus meat
+  boiled and asked if I liked milk, as he had some of Mataka's
+  cattle here. His people bring sanjika the best Lake fish, for
+  sale; they are dried on stages over slow fires, and lose their
+  fine flavour by it, but they are much prized inland. I bought
+  fifty for a fathom of calico; when fresh, they taste exactly like
+  the best herrings, <i>i.e.</i> as we think, but voyagers' and
+  travellers' appetites are often so whetted as to be incapable of
+  giving a true verdict in matters of taste.</p>
+
+  <p>[It is necessary to explain that Livingstone knew of an Arab
+  settlement on the western shore of the Lake, and that he hoped to
+  induce the chief man Jumb&eacute; to give him a passage to the
+  other side.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;I sent Seyed Majid's letter up
+  to Jumb&eacute;, but the messenger met some coast Arabs at the
+  Loangwa, which may be seven miles from this, and they came back
+  with him, haggling a deal about the fare, and then went off,
+  saying that they would bring the dhow here for us. Finding that
+  they did not come, I sent Musa, who brought back word that they
+  had taken the dhow away over to Jumb&eacute; at Kotakota, or, as
+  they pronounce it, Ngotagota. Very few of the coast Arabs can
+  read; in words they are very polite, but truthfulness seems very
+  little regarded. I am resting myself and people&mdash;working up
+  journal, lunars, and altitudes&mdash;but will either move south
+  or go to the Arabs towards the north soon.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>Mokalaos&eacute;'s fears of
+  the Waiyau will make him welcome Jumb&eacute; here, and then the
+  Arab will some day have an opportunity of scattering his people
+  as he has done those at Kotakota. He has made Los&eacute;wa too
+  hot for himself. When the people there were carried off by
+  Mataka's people, Jumb&eacute; seized their stores of grain, and
+  now has no post to which he can go there. The Loangwa Arabs give
+  an awful account of Jumb&eacute;'s murders and selling the
+  people, but one cannot take it all in; at the mildest it must
+  have been bad. This is all they ever do; they cannot form a state
+  or independent kingdom: slavery and the slave-trade are
+  insuperable obstacles to any permanence inland; slaves can escape
+  so easily, all therefore that the Arabs do is to collect as much
+  money as they can by hook and by crook, and then leave the
+  country.</p>
+
+  <p>We notice a bird called namtambw&eacute;, which sings very
+  nicely with a strong voice after dark here at the Misinj&eacute;
+  confluence.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;Two headmen came down country
+  from villages where we slept, bringing us food, and asking how we
+  are treated; they advise our going south to Mukat&eacute;'s,
+  where the Lake is narrow.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th-14th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;Map making; but my
+  energies were sorely taxed by the lazy sepoys, and I was usually
+  quite tired out at night. Some men have come down from Mataka's,
+  and report the arrival of an Englishman with cattle for me, "he
+  has two eyes behind as well as two in front:" this is enough of
+  news for awhile!</p>
+
+  <p>Mokalaos&eacute; has his little afflictions, and he tells me
+  of them. A wife ran away, I asked how many he had; he told me
+  twenty in all: I then thought he had nineteen too many. He
+  answered with the usual reason, "But who would cook for strangers
+  if I had but one?"</p>
+
+  <p>We saw clouds of "kungu" gnats on the Lake; they are not eaten
+  here. An ungenerous traveller coming here with my <a name=
+  "Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>statement in his hand, and finding the
+  people denying all knowledge of how to catch and cook them, might
+  say that I had been romancing in saying I had seen them made into
+  cakes in the northern part of the Lake; when asking here about
+  them, a stranger said, "They know how to use them in the north;
+  we do not."</p>
+
+  <p>Mokalaos&eacute; thinks that the Arabs are afraid that I may
+  take their dhows from them and go up to the north. He and the
+  other headmen think that the best way will be to go to
+  Mukat&eacute;'s in the south. All the Arabs flee from me, the
+  English name being in their minds inseparably connected with
+  recapturing slavers: they cannot conceive that I have any other
+  object in view; they cannot read Seyed Majid's letter.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st August, 1866.</i>&mdash;Started for the Loangwa, on
+  the east side of the Lake; hilly all the way, about seven miles.
+  This river may be twenty yards wide near its confluence; the
+  Misinj&eacute; is double that: each has accumulated a promontory
+  of deposit and enters the Lake near its apex. We got a house from
+  a Waiyau man on a bank about forty feet above the level of
+  Nyassa, but I could not sleep for the manoeuvres of a crowd of
+  the minute ants which infested it. They chirrup distinctly; they
+  would not allow the men to sleep either, though all were pretty
+  tired by the rough road up.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd August, 1866.</i>&mdash;We removed to the south side
+  of the Loangwa, where there are none of these little pests.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd August, 1866.</i>&mdash;Proposed to the Waiyau headman
+  to send a canoe over to call Jumb&eacute;, as I did not believe
+  in the assertions of the half-caste Arab here that he had sent
+  for his. All the Waiyau had helped me, and why not he? He was
+  pleased with this, but advised waiting till a man sent to
+  Los&eacute;wa should return.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th August, 1866.</i>&mdash;A leopard took a dog out of a
+  house next to ours; he had bitten a man before, but not mortally.
+  <a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a><i>29th August,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;News come that the two dhows have come over to
+  Los&eacute;wa (Los&eacute;fa). The Mazitu had chased Jumb&eacute;
+  up the hills: had they said, on to an island, I might have
+  believed them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th August,1866.</i>&mdash;The fear which the English have
+  inspired in the Arab slave-traders is rather inconvenient. All
+  flee from me as if I had the plague, and I cannot in consequence
+  transmit letters to the coast, or get across the Lake. They seem
+  to think that if I get into a dhow I will be sure to burn it. As
+  the two dhows on the Lake are used for nothing else but the
+  slave-trade, their owners have no hope of my allowing them to
+  escape, so after we have listened to various lies as excuses, we
+  resolve to go southwards, and cross at the point of departure of
+  the Shir&eacute; from the Lake. I took lunars several times on
+  both sides of the moon, and have written a despatch for Lord
+  Clarendon, besides a number of private letters.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd September, 1866.</i>&mdash;Went down to confluence of
+  the Misinj&eacute; and came to many of the eatable insect
+  "kungu,"&mdash;they are caught by a quick motion of the hand
+  holding a basket. We got a cake of these same insects further
+  down; they make a buzz like a swarm of bees, and are probably the
+  perfect state of some Lake insect.</p>
+
+  <p>I observed two beaches of the Lake: one about fifteen feet
+  above the present high-water mark, and the other about forty
+  above that; but between the two the process of disintegration,
+  which results from the sudden cold and heat in these regions, has
+  gone on so much that seldom is a well-rounded smoothed one seen;
+  the lower beach is very well marked.</p>
+
+  <p>The strike of large masses of foliated gneiss is parallel with
+  the major axis of the Lake, and all are tilted on edge. Some are
+  a little inclined to the Lake, as if dipping to it westwards, but
+  others are as much inclined the opposite way, or twisted.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>I made very good blue ink
+  from the juice of a berry, the fruit of a creeper, which is the
+  colour of port wine when expressed. A little ferri carb. ammon.,
+  added to this is all that is required.</p>
+
+  <p>The poodle dog Chitan&eacute; is rapidly changing the colour
+  of its hair. All the parts corresponding to the ribs and neck are
+  rapidly becoming red; the majority of country dogs are of this
+  colour.</p>
+
+  <p>The Manganja, or Wa-nyassa, are an aboriginal race; they have
+  great masses of hair, and but little, if any, of the prognathous
+  in the profile. Their bodies and limbs are very well made, and
+  the countenance of the men is often very pleasant. The women are
+  very plain and lumpy, but exceedingly industrious in their
+  gardens from early morning till about 11 A.M., then from 3 P.M.
+  till dark, or pounding corn and grinding it: the men make twine
+  or nets by day, and are at their fisheries in the evenings and
+  nights. They build the huts, the women plaster them.</p>
+
+  <p>A black fish, the Nsaka, makes a hole, with raised edges,
+  which, with the depth from which they are taken, is from fifteen
+  to eighteen inches, and from two to three feet broad. It is
+  called by the natives their house. The pair live in it for some
+  time, or until the female becomes large for spawning; this
+  operation over, the house is left.</p>
+
+  <p>I gave Mokalaos&eacute; some pumpkin seed and peas. He took me
+  into his house, and presented a quantity of beer. I drank a
+  little, and seeing me desist from taking more, he asked if I
+  wished a servant-girl to "<i>pata mimba</i>." Not knowing what
+  was meant, I offered the girl the calabash of beer, and told her
+  to drink, but this was not the intention. He asked if I did not
+  wish more; and then took the vessel, and as he drank the girl
+  performed the operation on himself. Placing herself in front, she
+  put both hands round his waist below the short ribs, and pressing
+  <a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>gradually drew them round to
+  his belly in front. He took several prolonged draughts, and at
+  each she repeated the operation, as if to make the liquor go
+  equally over the stomach. Our topers don't seem to have
+  discovered the need for this.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;Our march is along the shore
+  to Ngombo promontory, which approaches so near to Senga or Tsenga
+  opposite, as to narrow the Lake to some sixteen or eighteen
+  miles. It is a low sandy point, the edge fringed on the
+  north-west and part of the south with a belt of papyrus and
+  reeds; the central parts wooded. Part of the south side has high
+  sandy dunes, blown up by the south wind, which strikes it at
+  right angles there. One was blowing as we marched along the
+  southern side eastwards, and was very tiresome. We reached
+  Panthunda's village by a brook called Lilol&eacute;. Another we
+  crossed before coming to it is named Libesa: these brooks form
+  the favourite spawning grounds of the sanjika and mpasa, two of
+  the best fishes of the Lake. The sanjika is very like our herring
+  in shape and taste and size; the mpasa larger every way: both
+  live on green herbage formed at the bottom of the Lake and
+  rivers.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;Chirumba's village being on
+  the south side of a long lagoon, we preferred sleeping on the
+  mainland, though they offered their cranky canoes to ferry us
+  over. This lagoon is called Pansangwa.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;In coming along the southern
+  side of Ngombo promontory we look eastwards, but when we leave it
+  we turn southwards, having a double range of lofty mountains on
+  our left. These are granitic in form, the nearer range being
+  generally the lowest, and covered with scraggy trees; the second,
+  or more easterly, is some 6000 feet above the sea, bare and
+  rugged, with jagged peaks shooting high into the air. This is
+  probably the newest range. The oldest people have felt no
+  earthquake, but <a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>some say that
+  they have heard of such things from their elders.</p>
+
+  <p>We passed very many sites of old villages, which are easily
+  known by the tree euphorbia planted round an umbelliferous one,
+  and the sacred fig. One species here throws out strong buttresses
+  in the manner of some mangroves instead of sending down twiners
+  which take root, as is usually the ease with the tropical fig.
+  These, with millstones&mdash;stones for holding the pots in
+  cooking&mdash;and upraised clay benches, which have been turned
+  into brick by fire in the destruction of the huts, show what were
+  once the "pleasant haunts of men." No stone implements ever
+  appear. If they existed they could not escape notice, since the
+  eyes in walking are almost always directed to the ground to avoid
+  stumbling on stones or stumps. In some parts of the world stone
+  implements are so common they seem to have been often made and
+  discarded as soon as formed, possibly by getting better tools;
+  if, indeed, the manufacture is not as modern as that found by Mr.
+  Waller. Passing some navvies in the City who were digging for the
+  foundation of a house, he observed a very antique-looking vase,
+  wet from the clay, standing on the bank. He gave ten shillings
+  for it, and subsequently, by the aid of a scrubbing brush and
+  some water, detected the hieroglyphics "Copeland late Spode" on
+  the bottom of it!</p>
+
+  <p>Here the destruction is quite recent, and has been brought
+  about by some who entertained us very hospitably on the
+  Misinj&eacute;, before we came to the confluence. The woman
+  chief, Ulenjelenj&eacute;, or Njelenj&eacute;, bore a part in it
+  for the supply of Arab caravans. It was the work of the
+  Masininga, a Waiyau tribe, of which her people form a part. They
+  almost depopulated the broad fertile tract, of some three or four
+  miles, between the mountain range and the Lake, along which our
+  course lay. It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones
+  scattered about every<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>where;
+  one would fain not notice them, but they are so striking as one
+  trudges along the sultry path, that it cannot be avoided.</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We spent Sunday at
+  Kandango's village. The men killed a hippopotamus when it was
+  sleeping on the shore; a full-grown female, 10 feet 9 inches from
+  the snout to the insertion of the tail, and 4 feet 4 inches high
+  at the withers. The bottom here and all along southwards now is
+  muddy. Many of the <i>Siluris Glanis</i> are caught equal in
+  length to an eleven or a twelve-pound salmon, but a great portion
+  is head; slowly roasted on a stick stuck in the ground before the
+  fire they seemed to me much more savoury than I ever tasted them
+  before. With the mud we have many shells: north of Ngombo
+  scarcely one can be seen, and there it is sandy or rocky.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;In marching southwards we
+  came close to the range (the Lake lies immediately on the other
+  side of it), but we could not note the bays which it forms; we
+  crossed two mountain torrents from sixty to eighty yards broad,
+  and now only ankle deep. In flood these bring down enormous
+  trees, which are much battered and bruised among the rocks in
+  their course; they spread over the plain, too, and would render
+  travelling here in the rains impracticable. After spending the
+  night at a very civil headman's chefu, we crossed the
+  Lotend&eacute;, another of these torrents: each very lofty mass
+  in the range seemed to give rise to one. Nothing of interest
+  occurred as we trudged along. A very poor headman, Pamawawa,
+  presented a roll of salt instead of food: this was grateful to
+  us, as we have been without that luxury some time.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We crossed the rivulet
+  Nguena, and then went on to another with a large village by it,
+  it is called Pantoza Pangone. The headman had been suffering from
+  sore eyes for four months, and pressed me to stop and give him
+  medicine, which I did.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a><i>13th September,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;We crossed a strong brook called Nkor&eacute;. My
+  object in mentioning the brooks which were flowing at this time,
+  and near the end of the dry season, is to give an idea of the
+  sources of supply of evaporation. The men enumerate the
+  following, north of the Misinj&eacute;. Those which are greater
+  are marked thus +, and the lesser ones-.</p>
+
+  <p><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">1. Misinj&eacute; + has
+  canoes.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">2. Loangwa -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">3. Les&eacute;fa -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">4. Lelula -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">5. Nchamanj&eacute;
+  -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">6. Musumba +</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">7. Fubw&eacute; +</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">8. Chia -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">9. Kisanga +</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">10. Bweka -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">11. Chifumero + has
+  canoes.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">12. Loangwa -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">13. Mkoho -</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">14. Mangwelo - at N. end of
+  Lake.</span><br /></p>
+
+  <p>Including the above there are twenty or twenty-four perennial
+  brooks and torrents which give a good supply of water in the dry
+  season; in the wet season they are supplemented by a number of
+  burns, which, though flowing now, have their mouths blocked up
+  with bars of sand, and yield nothing except by percolation; the
+  Lake rises at least four feet perpendicularly in the wet season,
+  and has enough during the year from these perennial brooks to
+  supply the Shir&eacute;'s continual flow.</p>
+
+  <p>[It will be remembered that the beautiful river Shir&eacute;
+  carries off the waters of Lake Nyassa and joins the Zambesi near
+  Mount Morambala, about ninety miles from the sea. It is by this
+  water-way that Livingstone always hoped to <a name="Page_100" id=
+  "Page_100"></a>find an easy access to Central Africa. The only
+  obstacles that exist are, first, the foolish policy of the
+  Portuguese with regard to Customs' duties at the mouth of the
+  Zambesi; and secondly, a succession of cataracts on the
+  Shir&eacute;, which impede navigation for seventy miles. The
+  first hindrance may give way under more liberal views than those
+  which prevail at present at the Court of Lisbon, and then the
+  remaining difficulty&mdash;accepted as a fact&mdash;will be
+  solved by the establishment of a boat service both above and
+  below the cataracts. Had Livingstone survived he would have been
+  cheered by hearing that already several schemes are afoot to
+  plant Missions in the vicinity of Lake Nyassa, and we may with
+  confidence look to the revival of the very enterprise which he
+  presently so bitterly deplores as a thing of the past, for Bishop
+  Steere has fully determined to re-occupy the district in which
+  fell his predecessor, Bishop Mackenzie, and others attached to
+  the Universities Mission.]</p>
+
+  <p>In the course of this day's march we were pushed close to the
+  Lake by Mount Gom&eacute;, and, being now within three miles of
+  the end of the Lake, we could see the whole plainly. There we
+  first saw the Shir&eacute; emerge, and there also we first gazed
+  on the broad waters of Nyassa.</p>
+
+  <p>Many hopes have been disappointed here. Far down on the right
+  bank of the Zambesi lies the dust of her whose death changed all
+  my future prospects; and now, instead of a check being given to
+  the slave-trade by lawful commerce on the Lake, slave-dhows
+  prosper!</p>
+
+  <p>An Arab slave-party fled on hearing of us yesterday. It is
+  impossible not to regret the loss of good Bishop Mackenzie, who
+  sleeps far down the Shir&eacute;, and with him all hope of the
+  Gospel being introduced into Central Africa. The silly
+  abandonment of all the advantages of the Shir&eacute; route by
+  the Bishop's successor I shall ever bitterly deplore, <a name=
+  "Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>but all will come right some day,
+  though I may not live to participate in the joy, or even see the
+  commencement of better times.</p>
+
+  <p>In the evening we reached the village of Cherekalongwa on the
+  brook Pamchololo, and were very jovially received by the headman
+  with beer. He says that Mukat&eacute;,<a name="FNanchor_19_19"
+  id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class=
+  "fnanchor">[19]</a> Kabinga, and Mponda alone supply the
+  slave-traders now by raids on the Manganja, but they go S.W. to
+  the Maravi, who, impoverished by a Mazitu raid, sell each other
+  as well.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th, September, 1866.</i>&mdash;At Cherekalongwa's (who
+  has a skin disease, believed by him to have been derived from
+  eating fresh-water turtles), we were requested to remain one day
+  in order that he might see us. He had heard much about us; had
+  been down the Shir&eacute;, and as far as Mosambique, but never
+  had an Englishman in his town before. As the heat is great we
+  were glad of the rest and beer, with which he very freely
+  supplied us.</p>
+
+  <p>I saw the skin of a Phenembe, a species of lizard which
+  devours chickens; here it is named Salka. It had been flayed by a
+  cut up the back&mdash;body, 12 inches; across belly, 10
+  inches.</p>
+
+  <p>After nearly giving up the search for Dr. Roscher's point of
+  reaching the Lake&mdash;because no one, either Arab or native,
+  had the least idea of either Nusseewa or Makawa, the name given
+  to the place&mdash;I discovered it in Less&eacute;fa, the
+  accentuated <i>&eacute;</i> being sounded as our <i>e</i> in
+  <i>set</i>. This word would puzzle a German philologist, as being
+  the origin of Nussewa, but the Waiyau pronounce it Los&eacute;wa,
+  the Arabs Luss&eacute;wa, and Roscher's servant transformed the
+  <i>L</i> and <i>&eacute;</i> into <i>N</i> and <i>ee</i>, hence
+  Nusseewa. In confirmation of this rivulet Les&eacute;fa, which is
+  opposite Kotakota, or, as the Arabs pronounce it, Nkotakota, the
+  chief is Mangkaka (Makawa), or as there is a confusion of names
+  as to chief it may be Mataka, <a name="Page_102" id=
+  "Page_102"></a>whose town and district is called Moemb&eacute;,
+  the town Pamoembe = Mamemba.</p>
+
+  <p>I rest content with Kingomango so far verifying the place at
+  which he arrived two months after we had discovered Lake Nyassa.
+  He deserved all the credit due to finding the way thither, but he
+  travelled as an Arab, and no one suspected him to be anything
+  else. Our visits have been known far and wide, and great
+  curiosity excited; but Dr. Roscher merits the praise only of
+  preserving his <i>incognito</i> at a distance from Kilwa: his is
+  almost the only case known of successfully assuming the Arab
+  guise&mdash;Burckhardt is the exception. When Mr. Palgrave came
+  to Muscat, or a town in Oman where our political agent Col.
+  Desborough was stationed, he was introduced to that functionary
+  by an interpreter as Hajee Ali, &amp;c. Col. Desborough replied,
+  "You are no Hajee Ali, nor anything else but Gifford Palgrave,
+  with whom I was schoolfellow at the Charter House." Col.
+  Desborough said he knew him at once, from a peculiar way of
+  holding his head, and Palgrave begged him not to disclose his
+  real character to his interpreter, on whom, and some others, he
+  had been imposing. I was told this by Mr. Dawes, a Lieutenant in
+  the Indian navy, who accompanied Colonel Pelly in his visit to
+  the Nejed, Riad, &amp;c, and took observations for him.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Ta&ntilde;gar&eacute;</i> is the name of a rather handsome
+  bean, which possesses intoxicating qualities. To extract these it
+  is boiled, then peeled, and new water supplied: after a second
+  and third boiling it is pounded, and the meal taken to the river
+  and the water allowed to percolate through it several times.
+  Twice cooking still leaves the intoxicating quality; but if eaten
+  then it does not cause death: it is curious that the natives do
+  not use it expressly to produce intoxication. When planted near a
+  tree it grows all over it, and yields abundantly: the skin of the
+  pod is velvety, like our broad beans.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>Another bean, with a
+  pretty white mark on it, grows freely, and is easily cooked, and
+  good: it is here called <i>Gwingwiza</i>.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We were now a short
+  distance south of the Lake, and might have gone west to Mosauka's
+  (called by some Pasauka's) to cross the Shir&eacute; there, but I
+  thought that my visit to Mukat&eacute;'s, a Waiyau chief still
+  further south, might do good. He, Mponda, and Kabinga, are the
+  only three chiefs who still carry on raids against the Manganja
+  at the instigation of the coast Arabs, and they are now sending
+  periodical marauding parties to the Maravi (here named Malola) to
+  supply the Kilwa slave-traders. We marched three hours
+  southwards, then up the hills of the range which flanks all the
+  lower part of the Lake. The altitude of the town is about 800
+  feet above the Lake. The population near the chief is large, and
+  all the heights as far as the eye can reach are crowned with
+  villages. The second range lies a few miles off, and is covered
+  with trees as well as the first, the nearest high mass is
+  Ma&ntilde;goch&eacute;. The people live amidst plenty. All the
+  chiefs visited by the Arabs have good substantial square houses
+  built for their accommodation. Mukat&eacute; never saw a European
+  before, and everything about us is an immense curiosity to him
+  and to his people. We had long visits from him. He tries to
+  extract a laugh out of every remark. He is darker than the
+  generality of Waiyau, with a full beard trained on the chin, as
+  all the people hereabouts have&mdash;Arab fashion. The courts of
+  his women cover a large space, our house being on one side of
+  them. I tried to go out that way, but wandered, so the ladies
+  sent a servant to conduct me out in the direction I wished to go,
+  and we found egress by passing through some huts with two doors
+  in them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;At Mukat&eacute;'s. The
+  Prayer Book does not give ignorant persons any idea of an unseen
+  Being <a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>addressed, it looks
+  more like reading or speaking to the book: kneeling and praying
+  with eyes shut is better than, our usual way of holding Divine
+  service.</p>
+
+  <p>We had a long discussion about the slave-trade. The Arabs have
+  told the chief that our object in capturing slavers is to get
+  them into our own possession, and make them of our own religion.
+  The evils which we have seen&mdash;the skulls, the ruined
+  villages, the numbers who perish on the way to the coast and on
+  the sea, the wholesale murders committed by the Waiyau to build
+  up Arab villages elsewhere&mdash;these things Mukat&eacute; often
+  tried to turn off with a laugh, but our remarks are safely lodged
+  in many hearts. Next day, as we went along, our guide
+  spontaneously delivered their substance to the different villages
+  along our route. Before we reached him, a headman, in convoying
+  me a mile or two, whispered to me, "Speak to Mukat&eacute; to
+  give his forays up."</p>
+
+  <p>It is but little we can do, but we lodge a protest in the
+  heart against a vile system, and time may ripen it. Their great
+  argument is, "What could we do without Arab cloth?" My answer is,
+  "Do what you did before the Arabs came into the country." At the
+  present rate of destruction of population, the whole country will
+  soon be a desert.</p>
+
+  <p>An earthquake happened here last year, that is about the end
+  of it or beginning of this (the crater on the Grand. Comoro
+  Island smoked for three months about that time); it shook all the
+  houses and everything, but they observed no other
+  effects.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> No hot springs are
+  known here.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a><i>17th September,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;We marched down from Mukat&eacute;'s and to about
+  the middle of the Lakelet Pamalomb&eacute;. Mukat&eacute; had no
+  people with canoes near the usual crossing place, and he sent a
+  messenger to see that we were fairly served. Here we got the
+  Manganja headmen to confess that an earthquake had happened; all
+  the others we have inquired of have denied it; why, I cannot
+  conceive. The old men said that they had felt earthquakes twice,
+  once near sunset and the next time at night&mdash;they shook
+  everything, and were accompanied with noise, and all the fowls
+  cackled; there was no effect on the Lake observed. They profess
+  ignorance of any tradition of the water having stood higher.
+  Their traditions say that they came originally from the west, or
+  west north-west, which they call "Maravi;" and that their
+  forefathers taught them to make nets and kill fish. They have no
+  trace of any teaching by a higher instructor; no carvings or
+  writings on the rocks; and they never heard of a book until we
+  came among them. Their forefathers never told them that after or
+  at death they went to God, but they had heard it said of such a
+  one who died, "God took him."</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We embarked the whole party
+  in eight canoes, and went up the Lake to the point of junction
+  between it and the prolongation of Nyassa above it, called
+  Massangano ("meetings"), which took us two hours. A fishing party
+  there fled on seeing us, though we shouted that we were a
+  travelling party (or "Olendo ").</p>
+
+  <p>Mukat&eacute;'s people here left us, and I walked up to the
+  village of the fugitives with one attendant only. Their
+  suspicions were so thoroughly aroused that they would do nothing.
+  The headman (Pima) was said to be absent; they could not lend us
+  a hut, but desired us to go on to Mponda's. We put up a shed for
+  ourselves, and next morning, though we pressed them for a guide,
+  no one would come.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>From Pima's village we
+  had a fine view of Pamalomb&eacute; and the range of hills on its
+  western edge, the range which flanks the lower part of
+  Nyassa,&mdash;on part of which Mukat&eacute; lives,&mdash;the gap
+  of low land south of it behind which Shirwa Lake lies, and
+  Chikala and Zomba nearly due south from us. People say
+  hippopotami come from Lake Shirwa into Lake Nyassa. There is a
+  great deal of vegetation in Pamalomb&eacute;, gigantic rushes,
+  duckweed, and great quantities of aquatic plants on the bottom;
+  one slimy translucent plant is washed ashore in abundance. Fish
+  become very fat on these plants; one called "kadiakola" I eat
+  much of; it has a good mass of flesh on it.</p>
+
+  <p>It is probable that the people of Lake Tanganyika and Nyassa,
+  and those on the Rivers Shir&eacute; and Zambesi, are all of one
+  stock, for the dialects vary very little.<a name="FNanchor_21_21"
+  id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class=
+  "fnanchor">[21]</a> I took observations on this point. An Arab
+  slave-party, hearing of us, decamped.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;When we had proceeded a
+  mile this morning we came to 300 or 400 people making salt on a
+  plain impregnated with it. They lixiviate the soil and boil the
+  water, which has filtered through a bunch of grass in a hole in
+  the bottom of a pot, till all is evaporated and a mass of salt
+  left. We held along the plain till we came to Mponda's, a large
+  village, with a stream running past. The plain at the village is
+  very fertile, and has many large trees on it. The cattle of
+  Mponda are like fatted Madagascar beasts, and the hump seems as
+  if it would weigh 100 lbs.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id=
+  "FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class=
+  "fnanchor">[22]</a> The size of body is so enormous that their
+  legs, as remarked by our men, seemed very small. Mponda is a
+  blustering sort of person, but immensely interested in <a name=
+  "Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>everything European. He says that he
+  would like to go with me. "Would not care though he were away ten
+  years." I say that he may die in the journey.&mdash;"He will die
+  here as well as there, but he will see all the wonderful doings
+  of our country." He knew me, having come to the boat, to take a
+  look <i>incognito</i> when we were here formerly.</p>
+
+  <p>We found an Arab slave-party here, and went to look at the
+  slaves; seeing this; Mponda was alarmed lest we should proceed to
+  violence in his town, but I said to him that we went to look
+  only. Eighty-five slaves were in a pen formed of dura stalks
+  <i>(Holcus sorghum</i>). The majority were boys of about eight or
+  ten years of age; others were grown men and women. Nearly all
+  were in the taming-stick; a few of the younger ones were in
+  thongs, the thong passing round the neck of each. Several pots
+  were on the fires cooking dura and beans. A crowd went with us,
+  expecting a scene, but I sat down, and asked a few questions
+  about the journey, in front. The slave-party consisted of five or
+  six half-caste coast Arabs, who said that they came from
+  Zanzibar; but the crowd made such a noise that we could not hear
+  ourselves speak. I asked if they had any objections to my looking
+  at the slaves, the owners pointed out the different slaves, and
+  said that after feeding them, and accounting for the losses in
+  the way to the coast, they made little by the trip. I suspect
+  that the gain is made by those who ship them to the ports of
+  Arabia, for at Zanzibar most of the younger slaves we saw went at
+  about seven dollars a head. I said to them it was a bad business
+  altogether. They presented fowls to me in the evening.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;The chief begged so hard
+  that I would stay another day and give medicine to a sick child,
+  that I consented. He promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest
+  of his sincerity, sent an immense pot of beer in the evening. The
+  child had been benefited by the medicine <a name="Page_108" id=
+  "Page_108"></a>given yesterday. He offered more food than we
+  chose to take.</p>
+
+  <p>The agricultural class does not seem to be a servile one: all
+  cultivate, and the work is esteemed. The chief was out at his
+  garden when we arrived, and no disgrace is attached to the field
+  labourer. The slaves very likely do the chief part of the work,
+  but all engage in it, and are proud of their skill. Here a great
+  deal of grain is raised, though nearly all the people are Waiyau
+  or Machinga. This is remarkable, as they have till lately been
+  marauding and moving from place to place. The Manganja possessed
+  the large breed of humped cattle which fell into the hands of the
+  Waiyau, and knew how to milk them. Their present owners never
+  milk them, and they have dwindled into a few instead of the
+  thousands of former times.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id=
+  "FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class=
+  "fnanchor">[23]</a></p>
+
+  <p>A lion killed a woman early yesterday morning, and ate most of
+  her undisturbed.</p>
+
+  <p>It is getting very hot; the ground to the feet of the men
+  "burns like fire" after noon, so we are now obliged to make short
+  marches, and early in the morning chiefly.</p>
+
+  <p>Wikatani&mdash;Bishop Mackenzie's favourite boy&mdash;met a
+  brother here, and he finds that he has an elder brother and a
+  sister at Kabinga's. The father who sold him into slavery is
+  dead. He wishes to stop with his relatives, and it will be well
+  if he does. Though he has not much to say, what he does advance
+  against the slave-trade will have its weight, and it will all be
+  in the way of preparation for better times and more light.</p>
+
+  <p>The elder brother was sent for, but had not arrived when
+  <a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>it was necessary for us to
+  leave Mponda's on the Rivulet Ntemangokw&eacute;. I therefore
+  gave Wikatani some cloth, a flint gun instead of the percussion
+  one he carried, some flints, paper to write upon, and commended
+  him to Mponda's care till his relatives arrived. He has lately
+  shown a good deal of levity, and perhaps it is best that he
+  should have a touch of what the world is in reality.</p>
+
+  <p>[In a letter written about this time Dr. Livingstone, in
+  speaking of Wikatani, says, "He met with a brother, and found
+  that he had two brothers and one or two sisters living down at
+  the western shore of Lake Pamelomb&eacute; under Kabinga. He
+  thought that his relatives would not again sell him. I had asked
+  him if he wished to remain, and he at once said yes, so I did not
+  attempt to dissuade him: his excessive levity will perhaps be
+  cooled by marriage. I think he may do good by telling some of
+  what he has seen and heard. I asked him if he would obey an order
+  from his chief to hunt the Manganja, and he said, 'No.' I hope he
+  won't. In the event of any mission coming into the country of
+  Mataka, he will go there. I gave him paper to write to
+  you,<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> and, commending him
+  to the chiefs, bade the poor boy farewell. I was sorry to part
+  with him, but the Arabs tell the Waiyau chiefs that our object in
+  liberating slaves is to make them our own and turn them to our
+  religion. I had declared to them, through Wikatani as
+  interpreter, that they never became our slaves, and were at
+  liberty to go back to their relatives if they liked; and now it
+  was impossible to object to Wikatani going without stultifying my
+  own statements." It is only necessary to repeat that Wikatani and
+  Chuma had been liberated from the slavers by Dr. Livingstone and
+  Bishop Mackenzie in 1861; they were mere children when set
+  free.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>We must not forget to
+  record the fact that when Mr. Young reached Maponda, two years
+  afterwards, to ascertain whether the Doctor really had been
+  murdered, as Musa declared, he was most hospitably received by
+  the chief, who had by this time a great appreciation of
+  everything English.]</p>
+
+  <p>The lines of tattoo of the different tribes serve for
+  ornaments, and are resorted to most by the women; it is a sort of
+  heraldry closely resembling the Highland tartans.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p110" id="p110"></a> <img src="images/p110.jpg" width=
+    "400" height="358" alt="Manganja and Machinga women." title=
+    "Manganja and Machinga women." /><br />
+    <b>Manganja and Machinga
+    women.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Coal
+      was shown to a group of natives when first the <i>Pioneer</i>
+      ascended the river Shir&eacute;. Members of numerous tribes
+      were present, and all recognised it at once as Makala or
+      coal.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Dr.
+      Livingstone heard this subsequently when at Casembe's.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The
+      greater part were driven down into the Manganja country by
+      war and famine combined, and eventually filled the slave
+      gangs of the Portuguese, whose agents went from Tette and
+      Senna to procure them.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>
+      Pronounced Mkata by the Waiyau.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>
+      Earthquakes are by no means uncommon. A slight shock was felt
+      in 1861 at Magomero; on asking the natives if they knew the
+      cause of it, they replied that on one occasion, after a very
+      severe earthquake which shook boulders off the mountains, all
+      the wise men of the country assembled to talk about it and
+      came to the following conclusion, that a star had fallen from
+      heaven into the sea, and that the bubbling caused the whole
+      earth to rock; they said the effect was the same as that
+      caused by throwing, a red-hot stone into a pot of
+      water.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The
+      Waiyau language differs very much from the Nyassa, and is
+      exceedingly difficult to master: it holds good from the coast
+      to Nyassa, but to the west of the Lake the Nyassa tongue is
+      spoken over a vast tract.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> We
+      shall see that more to the north the hump entirely
+      disappears.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> It is
+      very singular to witness the disgust with which the idea of
+      drinking milk is received by most of these tribes when we
+      remember that the Caffre nations on the south, and again,
+      tribes more to the north, subsist principally on it. A lad
+      will undergo punishment rather than milk a goat. Eggs are
+      likewise steadily eschewed.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> To
+      myself.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><a name="Page_111" id=
+  "Page_111"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The
+    discomfited chief. Beaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge.
+    Description of Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the
+    Johanna men desert. Beaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing
+    the Doctor once more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his
+    experience of Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives.
+    Kimsusa solves the transport difficulty nobly. Another old
+    fishing acquaintance. Description of the people and country on
+    the west of the Lake. The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An
+    African Sir Colin Campbell. Milandos.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>21st September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We marched westwards,
+  making across the base of Cape Maclear. Two men employed as
+  guides and carriers, went along grumbling that their dignity was
+  so outraged by working&mdash;"only fancy Waiyau carrying like
+  slaves!!" They went but a short distance, and took advantage of
+  my being in front to lay down the loads, one of which consisted
+  of the havildar's bed and cooking things; here they opened the
+  other bundle and paid themselves&mdash;the gallant havildar
+  sitting and looking on. He has never been of the smallest use,
+  and lately has pretended to mysterious pains in his feet; no
+  swelling or other symptom accompanied this complaint. On coming
+  to Pima's village he ate a whole fowl and some fish for supper,
+  slept soundly till daybreak, then on awaking commenced a furious
+  groaning&mdash;"feet were so bad." I told him that people usually
+  moaned when insensible, but he had kept quiet till he awaked; he
+  sulked at this, and remained all day, though I sent a man to
+  carry his kit for him, and when he came <a name="Page_112" id=
+  "Page_112"></a>up he had changed the seat of his complaint from
+  his feet to any part of his abdomen. He gave off his gun-belt and
+  pouch to the carrier. This was a blind to me, for I examined and
+  found that he had already been stealing and selling his
+  ammunition: this is all preparatory to returning to the coast
+  with some slave-trader. Nothing can exceed the ease and grace
+  with which sepoys can glide from a swagger into the most abject
+  begging of food from the villagers. He has remained behind.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd September, 1866.</i>&mdash;The hills we crossed were
+  about 700 feet above Nyassa, generally covered with trees; no
+  people were seen. We slept by the brook Sikoch&eacute;. Rocks of
+  hardened sandstone rested on mica schist, which had an
+  efflorescence of alum on it, above this was dolomite; the hills
+  often capped with it and oak-spar, giving a snowy appearance. We
+  had a Waiyau party with us&mdash;six handsomely-attired women
+  carried huge pots of beer for their husbands, who very liberally
+  invited us to partake. After seven hours' hard travelling we came
+  to the village, where we spend Sunday by the torrent Usangazi,
+  and near a remarkable mountain, Namasi. The chief, a one-eyed
+  man, was rather coy&mdash;coming <i>incognito</i> to visit us;
+  and, as I suspected that he was present, I asked if the chief
+  were an old woman, afraid to look at and welcome a stranger? All
+  burst into a laugh, and looked at him, when he felt forced to
+  join in it, and asked what sort of food we liked best. Chuma put
+  this clear enough by saying, "He eats everything eaten by the
+  Waiyau." This tribe, or rather the Machinga, now supersede the
+  Manganja. We passed one village of the latter near this, a sad,
+  tumble-down affair, while the Waiyau villages are very neat, with
+  handsome straw or reed fences all around their huts.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We went only 2-1/2 miles to
+  the village of Marenga, a very large one, situated at the eastern
+  edge of the bottom of the heel of the Lake. The chief is ill
+  <a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>of a loathsome disease
+  derived direct from the Arabs. Raised patches of scab of circular
+  form disfigure the face and neck as well as other parts. His
+  brother begged me to see him and administer some remedy for the
+  same complaint. He is at a village a little way off, and though
+  sent for, was too ill to come or to be carried. The tribe is of
+  Babisa origin. Many of these people had gone to the coast as
+  traders, and returning with arms and ammunition joined the Waiyau
+  in their forays on the Manganja, and eventually set themselves up
+  as an independent tribe. The women do not wear the lip-ring,
+  though the majority of them are Waiyau. They cultivate largely,
+  and have plenty to eat. They have cattle, but do not milk
+  them.</p>
+
+  <p>The bogs, or earthen sponges,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id=
+  "FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class=
+  "fnanchor">[25]</a> of this country occupy a most important part
+  in its physical geography, and probably explain the annual
+  inundations of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sloping
+  towards a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, there
+  we have the conditions requisite for the formation of an African
+  sponge. The vegetation, not being of a heathy or peat-forming
+  kind, falls down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many
+  cases a mass of this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a
+  bed of pure river sand, which is revealed by crabs and other
+  aquatic animals bringing it to the surface. At present, in the
+  dry season, the black loam is cracked in all directions, and the
+  cracks are often as much as three inches wide, and very deep. The
+  whole surface has now fallen down, and rests on the sand, but
+  when the rains come, the first supply is nearly all absorbed in
+  the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, and floats on the
+  sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a
+  landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that <a name="Page_114"
+  id="Page_114"></a>spot. All the pools in the lower portion of
+  this spring-course are filled by the first rains, which happen
+  south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over any spot.
+  The second, or greater rains, happen in his course north again,
+  when all the bogs and river-courses being wet, the supply runs
+  off, and forms the inundation: this was certainly the case as
+  observed on the Zambesi and Shir&eacute;, and, taking the
+  different times for the sun's passage north of the equator, it
+  explains the inundation of the Nile.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;Marenga's town on the west
+  shore of Lake Nyassa is very large, and his people collected in
+  great numbers to gaze at the stranger. The chief's brother asked
+  a few questions, and I took the occasion to be a good one for
+  telling him something about the Bible and the future state. The
+  men said that their fathers had never told them aught about the
+  soul, but they thought that the whole man rotted and came to
+  nothing. What I said was very nicely put by a volunteer
+  spokesman, who seemed to have a gift that way, for all listened
+  most attentively, and especially when told that our Father in
+  heaven loved all, and heard prayers addressed to Him.</p>
+
+  <p>Marenga came dressed in a red-figured silk shawl, and attended
+  by about ten court beauties, who spread a mat for him, then a
+  cloth above, and sat down as if to support him. He asked me to
+  examine his case inside a hut. He exhibited his loathsome skin
+  disease, and being blacker than his wives, the blotches with
+  which he was covered made him appear very ugly. He thought that
+  the disease was in the country before Arabs came. Another new
+  disease acquired from them was the small-pox.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;An Arab passed us
+  yesterday, his slaves going by another route across the base of
+  Cape Maclear. He told Musa that all the country in front was full
+  of Mazitu; that forty-four Arabs and their followers had been
+  killed by them at Kasungu, and he only escaped. Musa <a name=
+  "Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>and all the Johanna men now declared
+  that they would go no farther. Musa said, "No good country that;
+  I want to go back to Johanna to see my father and mother and
+  son." I took him to Marenga, and asked the chief about the
+  Mazitu. He explained that the disturbance was caused by the
+  Manganja finding that Jumb&eacute; brought Arabs and ammunition
+  into the country every year, and they resented it in consequence;
+  they would not allow more to come, because they were the
+  sufferers, and their nation was getting destroyed.</p>
+
+  <p>I explained to Musa that we should avoid the Mazitu: Marenga
+  added, "There are no Mazitu near where you are going;" but Musa's
+  eyes <i>stood out</i> with terror, and he said, "I no can believe
+  that man." But I inquired, "How can you believe the Arab so
+  easily?" Musa answered, "I ask him to tell me true, and he say
+  true, true," &amp;c.</p>
+
+  <p>When we started, all the Johanna men walked off, leaving the
+  goods on the ground. They have been such inveterate thieves that
+  I am not sorry to get rid of them; for though my party is now
+  inconveniently small, I could not trust them with flints in their
+  guns, nor allow them to remain behind, for their object was
+  invariably to plunder their loads.</p>
+
+  <p>[Here then we have Livingstone's account of the origin of that
+  well-told story, which at first seemed too true. How Mr. Edward
+  Young, R.N., declared it to be false, and subsequently proved it
+  untrue, is already well known. This officer's quick voyage to
+  Lake Nyassa reflected the greatest credit on him, and all hearts
+  were filled with joy when he returned and reported the tale of
+  Livingstone's murder to be merely an invention of Musa and his
+  comrades.]</p>
+
+  <p>I ought to mention that the stealing by the Johanna men was
+  not the effect of hunger; it attained its height <a name=
+  "Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>when we had plenty. If one remained
+  behind, we knew his object in delaying was stealing. He gave what
+  he filched to the others, and Musa shared the dainties they
+  bought with the stolen property. When spoken to he would say, "I
+  every day tell Johanna men no steal Doctor's things." As he came
+  away and left them in the march, I insisted out his bringing up
+  all his men; this he did not relish, and the amount stolen was
+  not small. One stole fifteen pounds of fine powder, another
+  seven, another left six table-cloths out of about twenty-four;
+  another called out to a man to bring a fish, and he would buy it
+  with beads, the beads being stolen, and Musa knew it all and
+  connived at it; but it was terror that drove him away at
+  last.</p>
+
+  <p>With our goods in canoes we went round the bottom of the heel
+  of Nyassa, slept among reeds, and next morning (27th) landed at
+  Msangwa, which is nearly opposite Kimsusa's, or Katosa's, as the
+  Makololo called him. A man had been taken off by a crocodile last
+  night; he had been drinking beer, and went down to the water to
+  cool himself, where he lay down, and the brute seized him. The
+  water was very muddy, being stirred up by an east wind, which
+  lashed the waves into our canoes, and wetted our things. The loud
+  wail of the women is very painful to hear; it sounds so
+  dolefully.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th, September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We reached Kinisusa's,
+  below Mount Mulundini, of Kirk's range.<a name="FNanchor_26_26"
+  id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class=
+  "fnanchor">[26]</a> The chief was absent, but he was sent for
+  immediately: his town has much increased since I saw it last.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;Another Arab passed last
+  night, with the tale that his slaves had all been taken from him
+  by the Mazitu. It is more respectable to be robbed by them than
+  by the Manganja, who are much despised and counted <a name=
+  "Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>nobodies. I propose to go west of
+  this among the Maravi until quite away beyond the disturbances,
+  whether of Mazitu or Manganja.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th September, 1866.</i>&mdash;We enjoy our Sunday here.
+  We have-abundance of food from Kimsusa's wife. The chief wished
+  me to go alone and enjoy his drinking bout, and then we could
+  return to this place together; but this was not to my taste.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Kimsusa, or Mehusa, came this
+  morning, and seemed very glad again to see his old friend. He
+  sent off at once to bring an enormous ram, which had either
+  killed or seriously injured a man. The animal came tied to a pole
+  to keep him off the man who held it, while a lot more carried
+  him. He was prodigiously fat;<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id=
+  "FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class=
+  "fnanchor">[27]</a> this is a true African way of showing
+  love&mdash;plenty of fat and beer. Accordingly the chief brought
+  a huge basket of "pombe," the native beer, and another of
+  "nsima," or porridge, and a pot of cooked meat; to these were
+  added a large basket of maize. So much food had been brought to
+  us, that we had at last to explain that we could not carry
+  it.</p>
+
+  <p>[The Doctor states a fact in the next few lines which shows
+  that the Africans readily profit by advice which appeals to their
+  common sense, and we make this observation in full knowledge of
+  similar instances.]</p>
+
+  <p>Kimsusa says that they felt earthquakes at the place Mponda
+  now occupies, but none where he is now. He confirms the tradition
+  that the Manganja came from the west or W.N.W. He speaks more
+  rationally about the Deity than some have done, and adds, that it
+  was by following the <a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>advice
+  which I gave him the last time I saw him, and not selling his
+  people, that his village is now three times its former size. He
+  has another village besides, and he was desirous that I should
+  see that too; that was the reason he invited me to come, but the
+  people would come and visit me.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Kimsusa made his appearance
+  early with a huge basket of beer, 18 inches high and 15 inches in
+  diameter. He served it out for a time, taking deep draughts
+  himself, becoming extremely loquacious in consequence. He took us
+  to a dense thicket behind his town, among numbers of lofty trees,
+  many of which I have seen nowhere else; that under which we sat
+  bears a fruit in clusters, which is eatable, and called
+  "<i>Mbedwa</i>." A space had been cleared, and we were taken to
+  this shady spot as the one in which business of importance and
+  secrecy is transacted. Another enormous basket of beer was
+  brought here by his wives, but there was little need for it, for
+  Kimsusa talked incessantly, and no business was done.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd October, 1866.</i>&mdash;The chief came early, and
+  sober. I rallied him on his previous loquacity, and said one
+  ought to find time in the morning if business was to be done: he
+  took it in good part, and one of his wives joined in bantering
+  him. She is <i>the</i> wife and the mother of the sons in whom he
+  delights, and who will succeed him. I proposed to him to send men
+  with me to the Babisa country, and I would pay them there, where
+  they could buy ivory for him with the pay, and, bringing it back,
+  he would be able to purchase clothing without selling his people.
+  He says that his people would not bring the pay or anything else
+  back. When he sends to purchase ivory he gives the price to Arabs
+  or Babisa, and they buy for him and conduct his business
+  honestly; but his people, the Manganja, cannot be trusted: this
+  shows a remarkable state of distrust, and, from previous
+  information, it is probably true.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>A party of the Arab
+  Khambuiri's people went up lately to the Maravi country above
+  this, and immediately west of Kirk's range, to purchase slaves:
+  but they were attacked by the Maravi, and dispersed with
+  slaughter: this makes Kimsusa's people afraid to venture there.
+  They had some quarrel with the Maravi also of their own, and no
+  intercourse now took place. A path further south was followed by
+  Mponda lately, and great damage done, so it would not be wise to
+  go on his footsteps. Kimsusa said he would give me carriers to go
+  up to the Maravi, but he wished to be prepaid: to this I agreed,
+  but even then he could not prevail on anyone to go. He then sent
+  for an old Mobisa man, who has a village under him, and
+  acknowledges Kimsusa's power. He says that he fears that, should
+  he force his Manganja to go, they would leave us on the road, or
+  run away on the first appearance of danger; but this Mobisa man
+  would be going to his own country, and would stick by us.
+  Meanwhile the chief overstocks us with beer and other food.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;The Mobisa man sent for came,
+  but was so ignorant of his own country, not knowing the names of
+  the chief Babisa town or any of the rivers, that I declined his
+  guidance. He would only have been a clog on us; and anything
+  about the places in front of us we could ascertain at the
+  villages where we touch by inquiry as well as he could.</p>
+
+  <p>A woman turned up here, and persuaded Chuma that she was his
+  aunt. He wanted to give her at once a fathom of calico and beads,
+  and wished me to cut his pay down for the purpose. I persuaded
+  him to be content with a few beads for her. He gave her his spoon
+  and some other valuables, fully persuaded that she was a
+  relative, though he was interrogated first as to his father's
+  name, and tribe, &amp;c., before she declared herself.</p>
+
+  <p>It shows a most forgiving disposition on the part of these
+  <a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>boys to make presents to
+  those who, if genuine relations, actually sold them. But those
+  who have been caught young, know nothing of the evils of slavery,
+  and do not believe in its ills. Chuma, for instance, believes now
+  that he was caught and sold by the Manganja, and not by his own
+  Waiyau, though it was just in the opposite way that he became a
+  slave, and he asserted and believes that no Waiyau ever sold his
+  own child. When reminded that Wikatani was sold by his own
+  father, he denied it; then that the father of Chimwala, another
+  boy, sold him, his mother, and sister, he replied, "These are
+  Machinga." This is another tribe of Waiyau; but this showed that
+  he was determined to justify his countrymen at any rate. I
+  mention this matter, because though the Oxford and Cambridge
+  Mission have an advantage in the instruction of boys taken quite
+  young from slavers, yet these same boys forget the evils to which
+  they were exposed and from which they were rescued, and it is
+  even likely that they will, like Chuma, deny that any benefit was
+  conferred upon them by their deliverance. This was not stated
+  broadly by Chuma, but his tone led one to believe that he was
+  quite ready to return to the former state.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;The chief came early with an
+  immense basket of beer, as usual. We were ready to start: he did
+  not relish this; but I told him it was clear that his people set
+  very light by his authority. He declared that he would force them
+  or go himself, with his wives as carriers. This dawdling and
+  guzzling had a bad effect on my remaining people. Simon, a
+  Nassick lad, for instance, overheard two words which he
+  understood; these were "Mazitu" and "lipululu," or desert; and
+  from these he conjured up a picture of Mazitu rushing out upon us
+  from the jungle, and killing all without giving us time to say a
+  word! To this he added scraps of distorted information: Khambuiri
+  was a very bad chief in front, &amp;c., all showing egregious
+  <a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>cowardice; yet he came to
+  give me advice. On asking what he knew (as he could not speak the
+  language), he replied that he heard the above two words, and that
+  Chuma could not translate them, but he had caught them, and came
+  to warn me.</p>
+
+  <p>The chief asked me to stay over to-day, and he would go with
+  his wives to-morrow; I was his friend, and he would not see me in
+  difficulties without doing his utmost. He says that there is no
+  danger of our not finding people for carrying loads. It is
+  probable that Khambuiri's people went as marauders, and were
+  beaten off in consequence.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;We marched about seven miles
+  to the north to a village opposite the pass Tapiri, and on a
+  rivulet, Godedza. It was very hot. Kimsusa behaves like a king:
+  his strapping wives came to carry loads, and shame his people.
+  Many of the young men turned out and took the loads, but it was
+  evident that they feared retaliation if they ventured up the
+  pass. One wife carried beer, another meal; and as soon as we
+  arrived, cooking commenced: porridge and roasted goat's flesh
+  made a decent meal. A preparation of meal called "Toku" is very
+  refreshing and brings out all the sugary matter in the grain: he
+  gave me some in the way, and, seeing I liked it, a calabash full
+  was prepared for me in the evening. Kimsusa delights in showing
+  me to his people as his friend. If I could have used his pombe,
+  or beer, it would have put some fat on my bones, but it requires
+  a strong digestion; many of the chiefs and their wives live on it
+  almost entirely. A little flesh is necessary to relieve the
+  acidity it causes; and they keep all flesh very carefully, no
+  matter how high it may become: drying it on a stage over a fire
+  prevents entire putridity.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;I heard hooping-cough<a name=
+  "FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> in the village.
+  <a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>We found our visitors so
+  disagreeable that I was glad to march; they were Waiyau, and very
+  impudent, demanding gun or game medicine to enable them to shoot
+  well: they came into the hut uninvited, and would take no denial.
+  It is probable that the Arabs drive a trade in gun medicine: it
+  is inserted in cuts made above the thumb, and on the forearm.
+  Their superciliousness shows that they feel themselves to be the
+  dominant race. The Manganja trust to their old bows and arrows;
+  they are much more civil than Ajawa or Waiyau.</p>
+
+  <p>[The difference between these two great races is here well
+  worthy of the further notice which Livingstone no doubt would
+  have given it. As a rule, the Manganja are extremely clever in
+  all the savage arts and manufactures. Their looms turn out a
+  strong serviceable cotton cloth; their iron weapons and
+  implements show a taste for design which is not reached by the
+  neighbouring tribes, and in all matters that relate to husbandry
+  they excel: but in dash and courage they are deficient. The
+  Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped heads, as
+  distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the poor
+  Manganja; they are jocular and merry, given to travelling, and
+  bold in war&mdash;these are qualities which serve them well as
+  they are driven from pillar to post through slave wars and
+  internal dissension, but they have not the brains of the
+  Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark in any direction
+  where brains are wanted.]</p>
+
+  <p>A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the whole haul
+  of his net, came and gave me four fowls: some really delight in
+  showing kindness. When we came near the bottom of the pass
+  Tapiri, Kimsusa's men became loud against his venturing further;
+  he listened, then burst away from them: he listened again, then
+  did the same; and as he had now got men for us, I thought it
+  better to let him go.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>In three hours and a
+  quarter we had made a clear ascent of 2200 feet above the Lake.
+  The first persons we met were two men and a boy, who were out
+  hunting with a dog and basket-trap. This is laid down in the run
+  of some small animal; the dog chases it, and it goes into the
+  basket which is made of split bamboo, and has prongs looking
+  inwards, which prevent its egress: mouse traps are made in the
+  same fashion. I suspected that the younger of the men had other
+  game in view, and meant, if fit opportunity offered, to insert an
+  arrow in a Waiyau, who was taking away his wife as a slave. He
+  told me before we had gained the top of the ascent that some
+  Waiyau came to a village, separated from his by a small valley,
+  picked a quarrel with the inhabitants, and then went and took the
+  wife and child of a poorer countryman to pay these pretended
+  offences.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;At the first village we found
+  that the people up here and those down below were mutually afraid
+  of each other. Kimsusa came to the bottom of the range, his last
+  act being the offer of a pot of beer, and a calabash of Toku,
+  which latter was accepted. I paid his wives for carrying our
+  things: they had done well, and after we gained the village where
+  we slept, sang and clapped their hands vigorously till one
+  o'clock in the morning, when I advised them to go to sleep. The
+  men he at last provided were very faithful and easily satisfied.
+  Here we found the headman, Kawa, of Mpalapala, quite as
+  hospitable. In addition to providing a supper, it is the custom
+  to give breakfast before starting. Resting on the 8th to make up
+  for the loss of rest on Sunday; we marched on Tuesday (the 9th),
+  but were soon brought to a stand by Gombwa, whose village,
+  Tamiala, stands on another ridge.</p>
+
+  <p>Gombwa, a laughing, good-natured man, said that he had sent
+  for all his people to see me; and I ought to sleep, to enable
+  them to look on one the like of whom had never come their way
+  before. Intending to go on, <a name="Page_124" id=
+  "Page_124"></a>I explained some of my objects in coming through
+  the country, advising the people to refrain from selling each
+  other, as it ends in war and depopulation. He was cunning, and
+  said, "Well, you must sleep here, and all my people will come and
+  hear those words of peace." I explained that I had employed
+  carriers, who expected to be paid though I had gone but a small
+  part of a day; he replied, "But they will go home and come again
+  to-morrow, and it will count but one day:" I was thus constrained
+  to remain.</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Both barometer and
+  boiling-point showed an altitude of upwards of 4000 feet above
+  the sea. This is the hottest month, but the air is delightfully
+  clear, and delicious. The country is very fine, lying in long
+  slopes, with mountains rising all around, from 2000 to 3000 feet
+  above this upland. They are mostly jagged and rough (not rounded
+  like those near to Mataka's): the long slopes are nearly denuded
+  of trees, and the patches of cultivation are so large and often
+  squarish in form, that but little imagination is requisite to
+  transform the whole into the cultivated fields of England; but no
+  hedgerows exist. The trees are in clumps on the tops of the
+  ridges, or at the villages, or at the places of sepulture. Just
+  now the young leaves are out, but are not yet green. In some
+  lights they look brown, but with transmitted light, or when one
+  is near them, crimson prevails. A yellowish-green is met
+  sometimes in the young leaves, and brown, pink, and orange-red.
+  The soil is rich, but the grass is only excessively rank in
+  spots; in general it is short. A kind of trenching of the ground
+  is resorted to; they hoe deep, and draw it well to themselves:
+  this exposes the other earth to the hoe. The soil is burned too:
+  the grass and weeds are placed in flat heaps, and soil placed
+  over them: the burning is slow, and most of the products of
+  combustion are retained to fatten the field; in this way the
+  people raise large crops. Men and women and children engage in
+  field labour, but at present <a name="Page_125" id=
+  "Page_125"></a>many of the men are engaged in spinning
+  buaz&eacute;<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id=
+  "FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class=
+  "fnanchor">[29]</a> and cotton. The former is made into a coarse
+  sacking-looking stuff, immensely strong, which seems to be worn
+  by the women alone; the men are clad in uncomfortable goatskins.
+  No wild animals seem to be in the country, and indeed the
+  population is so large they would have very unsettled times of
+  it. At every turning we meet people, or see their villages; all
+  armed with bows and arrows. The bows are unusually long: I
+  measured one made of bamboo, and found that along the bowstring
+  it measured six feet four inches. Many carry large knives of fine
+  iron; and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men and women wear
+  the hair long, a mass of small ringlets comes down and rests on
+  the shoulders, giving them the appearance of the ancient
+  Egyptians. One side is often cultivated, and the mass hangs
+  jauntily on that side; some few have a solid cap of it. Not many
+  women wear the lip-ring: the example of the Waiyau has prevailed
+  so far; but some of the young women have raised lines crossing
+  each other on the arms, which must have cost great pain: they
+  have also small cuts, covering in some cases the whole body. The
+  Maravi or Manganja here may be said to be in their primitive
+  state. We find them very liberal with their <a name="Page_126"
+  id="Page_126"></a>food: we give a cloth to the headman of the
+  village where we pass the night, and he gives a goat, or at least
+  cooked fowls and porridge, at night and morning.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 205px;">
+    <a name="p125" id="p125"></a> <img src="images/p125.jpg" width=
+    "205" height="123" alt="Tattoo on Women." title=
+    "Tattoo on Women." /> <b>Tattoo on Women.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>We were invited by Gombwa in the afternoon to speak the same
+  words to his people that we used to himself in the morning. He
+  nudged a boy to respond, which is considered polite, though he
+  did it only with a rough hem! at the end of each sentence. As for
+  our general discourse we mention our relationship to our Father:
+  His love to all His children&mdash;the guilt of selling any of
+  His children&mdash;the consequence; <i>e.g.</i> it begets war,
+  for they don't like to sell their own, and steal from other
+  villagers, who retaliate. Arabs and Waiyau invited into the
+  country by their selling, foster feuds, and war and depopulation
+  ensue. We mention the Bible&mdash;future state&mdash;prayer:
+  advise union, that they should unite as one family to expel
+  enemies, who came first as slave-traders, and ended by leaving
+  the country a wilderness. In reference to union, we showed that
+  they ought to have seen justice done to the man who lost his wife
+  and child at their very doors; but this want of cohesion is the
+  bane of the Manganja. If the evil does not affect themselves they
+  don't care whom it injures; and Gombwa confirmed this, by saying
+  that when he routed Khambuiri's people, the villagers west of him
+  fled instead of coming to his aid.</p>
+
+  <p>We hear that many of the Manganja up here are fugitives from
+  Nyassa.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Kawa and his people were with
+  us early this morning, and we started from Tamiala with them. The
+  weather is lovely, and the scenery, though at present tinged with
+  yellow from the grass, might be called glorious. The bright sun
+  and delicious air are quite exhilarating. We passed a fine
+  flowing rivulet, called Leviz&eacute;, going into the Lake, and
+  many smaller runnels of delicious cold water. On resting by a
+  dark sepulchral grove, a tree attracted the attention, as nowhere
+  else seen: it is called Bokonto, and <a name="Page_127" id=
+  "Page_127"></a>said to bear eatable fruit. Many fine flowers were
+  just bursting into full blossom. After about four hours' march we
+  put up at Chitimba, the village of Ka&ntilde;gomba, and were
+  introduced by Kawa, who came all the way for the purpose.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;A very cold morning, with a
+  great bank of black clouds in the east, whence the wind came.
+  Therm. 59&deg;; in hut 69&deg;. The huts are built very well. The
+  roof, with the lower part plastered, is formed so as not to admit
+  a ray of light, and the only visible mode of ingress for it is by
+  the door. This case shows that winter is cold: on proposing to
+  start, breakfast was not ready: then a plan was formed to keep me
+  another day at a village close by, belonging to one Kulu, a man
+  of Kauma, to whom we go next. It was effectual, and here we are
+  detained another day. A curiously cut-out stool is in my hut,
+  made by the Mkwisa, who are south-west of this: it is of one
+  block, but hollowed out, and all the spaces indicated are hollow
+  too: about 2-1/2 feet long by 1-1/2 foot high.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
+    <a name="p127" id="p127"></a> <img src="images/p127.png" width=
+    "300" height="191" alt=
+    "Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood." title=
+    "Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood." /> <b>Curiously
+    cut-out stool of one block of wood.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>12th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;We march westerly, with a
+  good deal of southing. Kulu gave us a goat, and cooked liberally
+  for us all. He set off with us as if to go to Kauma's in our
+  company, but after we had gone a couple of miles he slipped
+  behind, and ran away. Some are naturally mean, and some naturally
+  noble: the mean cannot help showing their nature, nor can the
+  noble; but the noble-hearted must enjoy life most. Kulu got a
+  cloth, and he gave us at least its value; but he thought he had
+  got more than he gave, and so by running away that he had done us
+  nicely, without troubling himself to go and introduce us to
+  Kauma. I usually request a headman of a village to go with us.
+  They give a good report of us, if for no other reason <a name=
+  "Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>than for their own credit, because
+  no one likes to be thought giving his countenance to people other
+  than respectable, and it costs little.</p>
+
+  <p>We came close to the foot of several squarish mountains,
+  having perpendicular sides. One, called "Ulazo pa Malungo," is
+  used by the people, whose villages cluster round its base as a
+  storehouse for grain. Large granaries stand on its top,
+  containing food to be used in case of war. A large cow is kept up
+  there, which is supposed capable of knowing and letting the
+  owners know when war is coming.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id=
+  "FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class=
+  "fnanchor">[30]</a> There is a path up, but it was not visible to
+  us. The people are all Kanthunda, or climbers, not Maravi.
+  Kimsusa said that he was the only Maravi chief, but this I took
+  to be an ebullition of beer bragging: the natives up here,
+  however, confirm this, and assert that they are not Maravi, who
+  are known by having markings down the side of the face.</p>
+
+  <p>We spent the night at a Kanthunda village on the western side
+  of a mountain called Phunz&eacute; (the <i>h</i> being an
+  aspirate only). Many villages are planted round its base, but in
+  front, that is, westwards, we have plains, and there the villages
+  are as numerous: mostly they are within half a mile of each
+  other, and few are a mile from other hamlets. Each village has a
+  clump of trees around it: this is partly for shade and partly for
+  privacy from motives of decency. The heat of the sun causes the
+  effluvia to exhale quickly, so they are seldom offensive. The
+  rest of the country, where not cultivated, is covered with grass,
+  the seed-stalks about knee deep. It is gently undulating, lying
+  in low waves, stretching N.E. and S.W. The space between each
+  wave is usually occupied by a boggy spot or watercourse, which in
+  some cases is filled with pools with trickling rills between. All
+  the people are <a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>engaged at
+  present in making mounds six or eight feet square, and from two
+  to three feet high. The sods in places not before hoed are
+  separated from the soil beneath and collected into flattened
+  heaps, the grass undermost; when dried, fire is applied and slow
+  combustion goes on, most of the products of the burning being
+  retained in the ground, much of the soil is incinerated. The
+  final preparation is effected by the men digging up the subsoil
+  round the mound, passing each hoeful into the left hand, where it
+  pulverizes, and is then thrown on to the heap. It is thus virgin
+  soil on the top of the ashes and burned ground of the original
+  heap, very clear of weeds. At present many mounds have beans and
+  maize about four inches high. Holes, a foot in diameter and a few
+  inches deep, are made irregularly over the surface of the mound,
+  and about eight or ten grains put into each: these are watered by
+  hand and calabash, and kept growing till the rains set in, when a
+  very early crop is secured.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;After leaving Phunz&eacute;,
+  we crossed the Levi&ntilde;g&eacute;, a rivulet which flows
+  northwards, and then into Lake Nyassa; the lines of gentle
+  undulation tend in that direction. Some hills appear on the
+  plains, but after the mountains which we have left behind they
+  are mere mounds. We are over 3000 feet above the sea, and the air
+  is delicious; but we often pass spots covered with a plant which
+  grows in marshy places, and its heavy smell always puts me in
+  mind that at other seasons this may not be so pleasant a
+  residence. The fact of even maize being planted on mounds where
+  the ground is naturally quite dry, tells a tale of abundant
+  humidity of climate.</p>
+
+  <p>Kauma, a fine tall man, with a bald head and pleasant manners,
+  told us that some of his people had lately returned from the
+  Chibisa or Babisa country, whither they had gone to buy ivory,
+  and they would give me information about the path. He took a
+  fancy to one of the boys' blankets; offering a native cloth, much
+  larger, in exchange, and even a <a name="Page_130" id=
+  "Page_130"></a>sheep to boot; but the owner being unwilling to
+  part with his covering, Kauma told me that he had not sent for
+  his Babisa travellers on account of my boy refusing to deal with
+  him. A little childish this, but otherwise he was very
+  hospitable; he gave me a fine goat, which, unfortunately, my
+  people left behind.</p>
+
+  <p>The chief said that no Arabs ever came his way, nor Portuguese
+  native traders. When advising them to avoid the first attempts to
+  begin the slave-trade, as it would inevitably lead to war and
+  depopulation, Kauma replied that the chiefs had resolved to unite
+  against the Waiyau of Mpond&eacute; should he come again on a
+  foray up to the highlands; but they are like a rope of sand,
+  there is no cohesion among them, and each village is nearly
+  independent of every other: they mutually distrust each
+  other.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Spent Sunday here. Kauma says
+  that his people are partly Kanthunda and partly Chip&eacute;ta.
+  The first are the mountaineers, the second dwellers on the
+  plains. The Chip&eacute;ta have many lines of marking: they are
+  all only divisions of the great Manganja tribe, and their
+  dialects differ very slightly from that spoken by the same people
+  on the Shir&eacute;. The population is very great and very
+  ceremonious. When we meet anyone he turns aside and sits down: we
+  clap the hand on the chest and say, "Re peta&mdash;re peta," that
+  is, "we pass," or "let us pass:" this is responded to at once by
+  a clapping of the hands together. When a person is called at a
+  distance he gives two loud claps of assent; or if he rises from
+  near a superior he does, the same thing, which is a sort of
+  leave-taking.</p>
+
+  <p>We have to ask who are the principal chiefs in the direction
+  which we wish to take, and decide accordingly. Zomba was pointed
+  out as a chief on a range of hills on our west: beyond him lies
+  Undi m'senga. I had to take this route, as my people have a very
+  vivid idea of the danger of going northwards towards the Mazitu.
+  We made <a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>more southing than
+  we wished. One day beyond Zomba and W.S.W. is the part called
+  Chindando, where the Portuguese formerly went for gold. They
+  don't seem to have felt it worth while to come here, as neither
+  ivory nor gold could be obtained if they did. The country is too
+  full of people to allow any wild animals elbow-room: even the
+  smaller animals are hunted down by means of nets and dogs.</p>
+
+  <p>We rested at Pachoma; the headman offering a goat and beer,
+  but I declined, and went on to Molomba. Here Kauma's carriers
+  turned because a woman had died that morning as we left the
+  village. They asserted that had she died before we started not a
+  man would have left: this shows a reverence for death, for the
+  woman was no relative of any of them. The headman of Molomba was
+  very poor but very liberal, cooking for us and presenting a goat:
+  another headman from a neighbouring village, a laughing,
+  good-natured old man, named Chikala, brought beer and a fowl in
+  the morning. I asked him to go on with us to Mironga, it being
+  important, as above-mentioned, to have the like of his kind in
+  our company, and he consented. We saw Mount Ngala in the
+  distance, like a large sugar-loaf shot up in the air: in our
+  former route to Kasungu we passed north of it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Crossed the rivulet Chikuyo
+  going N. for the Lake, and Mironga being but one-and-a-half hour
+  off, we went on to Chipanga: this is the proper name of what on
+  the Zambesi is corrupted into Shupanga. The headman, a miserable
+  hemp-consuming<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id=
+  "FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class=
+  "fnanchor">[31]</a> leper, fled from us. We were offered a
+  miserable hut, which we refused, Chikala meanwhile went through
+  the whole village seeking a better, which we ultimately found: it
+  was not in this chief to be generous, though Chikala did what he
+  could in trying to <a name="Page_132" id=
+  "Page_132"></a>indoctrinate him: when I gave him a present he
+  immediately proposed to <i>sell</i> a goat! We get on pretty well
+  however.</p>
+
+  <p>Zomha is in a range of hills to our west, called Zala nyama.
+  The Portuguese, in going to Casembe, went still further west than
+  this.</p>
+
+  <p>Passing on we came to a smithy, and watched the founder at
+  work drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. He broke
+  through the hardened slag by striking it with an iron instrument
+  inserted in the end of a pole, when the material flowed out of
+  the small hole left for the purpose in the bottom of the furnace.
+  The ore (probably the black oxide) was like sand, and was put in
+  at the top of the furnace, mixed with charcoal. Only one bellows
+  was at work, formed out of a goatskin, and the blast was very
+  poor. Many of these furnaces, or their remains, are met with on
+  knolls; those at work have a peculiarly tall hut built over
+  them.</p>
+
+  <p>On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, with
+  the Diampw&eacute; stream flowing along it, and the Dzala nyama
+  range on the western side, are two villages screened by fine
+  specimens of the <i>Ficus Indica</i>. One of these is owned by
+  the headman Theresa, and there we spent the night. We made very
+  short marches, for the sun is very powerful, and the soil baked
+  hard, is sore on the feet: no want of water, however, is felt,
+  for we come to supplies every mile or two.</p>
+
+  <p>The people look very poor, having few or no beads; the
+  ornaments being lines and cuttings on the skin. They trust more
+  to buaz&eacute; than cotton. I noticed but two cotton patches.
+  The women are decidedly plain; but monopolize all the
+  buaz&eacute; cloth. Theresa was excessively liberal, and having
+  informed us that Zomba lived some distance up the range and was
+  not the principal man in these parts, we, to avoid climbing the
+  hills, turned away to the north, <a name="Page_133" id=
+  "Page_133"></a>in the direction of the paramount chief, Chisumpi,
+  whom we found to be only traditionally great.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;In passing along we came to a
+  village embowered in fine trees; the headman is Kaveta, a really
+  fine specimen of the Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine
+  forehead and Assyrian nose. He proposed to us to remain over
+  night with him, and I unluckily declined.</p>
+
+  <p>Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman, and
+  then came to a smith's village, where the same invitation was
+  given and refused. A sort of infatuation drove us on, and after a
+  long hot march we found the great Chisumpi, the facsimile in
+  black of Sir Colin Campbell; his nose, mouth, and the numerous
+  wrinkles on his face were identical with those of the great
+  General, but here all resemblance ceased. Two men had preceded us
+  to give information, and when I followed I saw that his village
+  was one of squalid misery, the only fine things about being the
+  lofty trees in which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at a
+  village about half a mile behind: his son was browbeating him on
+  some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. Next
+  morning he came early to that village, and arranged for our
+  departure, offering nothing, and apparently not wishing to see us
+  at all. I suspect that though paramount chief, he is weak-minded,
+  and has lost thereby all his influence, but in the people's eyes
+  he is still a great one.</p>
+
+  <p>Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, I inquired
+  for a village in which we could rest Saturday and Sunday, and at
+  a distance from Chisumpi. A headman volunteered to lead us to one
+  west of this. In passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our
+  guide remarked, "Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was
+  the first time I have heard the word "sleep" applied to death in
+  these parts. The trees in these groves, and around many of the
+  villages, are very large, and show what the country would become
+  if depopulated.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>We crossed the
+  Diampw&eacute; or Adiampw&eacute;, from five to fifteen yards
+  wide, and well supplied with water even now. It rises near the
+  Ndomo mountains, and flows northwards into the Lintip&eacute; and
+  Lake. We found Chitokola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant
+  one on the east side of the Adiampw&eacute; Valley. Many
+  elephants and other animals feed in the valley, and we saw the
+  Bechuana Hopo<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id=
+  "FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class=
+  "fnanchor">[32]</a> again after many years.</p>
+
+  <p>The Ambarr&eacute;, otherwise Nyumbo plant, has a pea-shaped,
+  or rather papilionaceous flower, with a fine scent. It seems to
+  grow quite wild; its flowers are yellow.</p>
+
+  <p>Chaola is the poison used by the Maravi for their arrows, it
+  is said to cause mortification.</p>
+
+  <p>One of the wonders usually told of us in this upland region is
+  that we sleep without fire. The boys' blankets suffice for warmth
+  during the night, when the thermometer sinks to 64&deg;-60&deg;,
+  but no one else has covering sufficient; some huts in process of
+  building here show that a thick coating of plaster is put on
+  outside the roof before the grass thatch is applied; not a chink
+  is left for the admission of air.</p>
+
+  <p>Ohitikola was absent from Paritala when we arrived on some
+  <i>milando</i> or other. These <i>milandos</i> are the business
+  of their lives. They are like petty lawsuits; if one trespasses
+  on his neighbour's rights in any way it is a <i>milando</i>, and
+  the headmen of all the villages about are called on to settle it.
+  Women are a fruitful source of <i>milando</i>. A few ears of
+  Indian corn had been taken by a person, and Chitikola had been
+  called a full day's journey off to settle this <i>milando</i>. He
+  administered <i>Muav&eacute;</i><a name="FNanchor_33_33" id=
+  "FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class=
+  "fnanchor">[33]</a> and the person <a name="Page_135" id=
+  "Page_135"></a>vomited, therefore innocence was clearly
+  established! He came in the evening of the 21st footsore and
+  tired, and at once gave us some beer. This perpetual reference to
+  food and drink is natural, inasmuch as it is the most important
+  point in our intercourse. While the chief was absent we got
+  nothing; the queen even begged a little meat for her child, who
+  was recovering from an attack of small-pox. There being no shops
+  we had to sit still without food. I took observations for
+  longitude, and whiled away the time by calculating the lunars.
+  Next day the chief gave us a goat cooked whole and plenty of
+  porridge: I noticed that he too had the Assyrian type of
+  face.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Dr.
+      Livingstone's description of the "Sponge" will stand the
+      reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention of
+      these obstructions in the later travels towards the
+      north.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> So
+      named when Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Kirk, and Mr. Charles
+      Livingstone, discovered Lake Nyassa together.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> The
+      sheep are of the black-haired variety: their tails grow to an
+      enormous size. A rain which came from Nunkajowa, a Waiyau
+      chief, on a former occasion, was found to have a tail
+      weighing 11 lbs.; but for the journey, and two or three days
+      short commons, an extra 2 or 3 lbs. of fat &laquo;would have
+      been on it.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> This
+      complaint has not been reported as an African disease before;
+      it probably clings to the higher levels.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> A fine
+      fibre derived from the shoots of a shrub (<i>Securidaca
+      Longipedunculata</i>).</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Several
+      superstitions of this nature seem to point to a remnant of
+      the old heathen ritual, and the worship of gods in mountain
+      groves.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Hemp =
+      bang&eacute; is smoked throughout Central Africa, and if used
+      in excess produces partial imbecility.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The
+      Hopo is a funnel-shaped fence which encloses a considerable
+      tract of country: a "drive" is organised, and animals of all
+      descriptions are urged on till they become jammed together in
+      the neck of the hopo, where they are speared to death or else
+      destroyed in a number of pitfalls placed there for the
+      purpose.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> The
+      ordeal poison.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><a name="Page_136"
+  id="Page_136"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by
+    Mazitu. Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the
+    watershed between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive
+    iron-workings. An old Nimrod. The Bua Eiver. Lovely scenery.
+    Difficulties of transport. Chilob&eacute;. An African
+    Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean.
+    Rains set in. Arrives at the Loangwa.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>We started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of October,
+  and he led us away westwards across the Lilongw&eacute; River,
+  then turned north till we came to a village called Mashumba, the
+  headman of which was the only chief who begged anything except
+  medicine, and he got less than we were in the habit of giving in
+  consequence: we give a cloth usually, and clothing being very
+  scarce this is considered munificent.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id=
+  "FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class=
+  "fnanchor">[34]</a></p>
+
+  <p>We had the Zalanyama range on our left, and our course was
+  generally north, but we had to go in the direction of the
+  villages which were on friendly terms with our guides, and
+  sometimes we went but a little way, as they studied to make the
+  days as short as possible. The headman of the last village,
+  Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a village of smiths, four
+  furnaces and one smithy being at work. We crossed the Chiniambo,
+  a strong river coming from Zalanyama and flowing into the
+  Mirongw&eacute;, which again goes into Lintip&eacute;. The
+  country near the hills becomes covered with forest, the trees are
+  chiefly Masuko Mochenga <a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>(the
+  gum-copal tree), the bark-cloth tree and rhododendrons. The heath
+  known at the Cape as <i>Rhinoster bosch</i> occurs frequently,
+  and occasionally we have thorny acacias. The grass is short, but
+  there is plenty of it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Our guide, Mpanda, led us
+  through the forest by what he meant to be a short cut to
+  Chimuna's. We came on a herd of about fifteen elephants, and many
+  trees laid down by these animals: they seem to relish the roots
+  of some kinds, and spend a good deal of time digging them up;
+  they chew woody roots and branches as thick as the handle of a
+  spade. Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd of elands;
+  they kept out of bow-shot only: a herd of the baama or hartebeest
+  stood at 200 paces, and one was shot.</p>
+
+  <p>While all were rejoicing over the meat we got news, from the
+  inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the Mazitu
+  were out on a foray. While roasting and eating meat I went
+  forward with Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry the rest,
+  but was soon recalled. Another crowd were also in full retreat;
+  the people were running straight to the Zalanyama range
+  regardless of their feet, making a path for themselves through
+  the forest; they had escaped from the Mazitu that morning; "they
+  saw them!" Mpanda's people wished to leave and go to look after
+  their own village, but we persuaded them, on pain of a
+  <i>milando</i>, to take us to the nearest village, that was at
+  the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of the
+  fugitives. The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills
+  must have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison
+  with dear life! We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend
+  our property in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we should, in
+  the event of being successful, be a defence to the fugitives who
+  crowded up its rocky sides, but next morning we heard that the
+  enemy had gone to the south. Had we gone forward, as we intended,
+  to search for men to <a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>carry
+  the meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the
+  second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their
+  village till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near
+  escape I had had from walking into their power.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;Came along northwards to
+  Chimuna's town, a large one of Chip&eacute;ta with many villages
+  around. Our path led through the forest, and as we emerged into
+  the open strath in which the villages lie, we saw the large
+  anthills, each the size of the end of a one-storied cottage,
+  covered with men on guard watching for the Mazitu.</p>
+
+  <p>A long line of villagers were just arriving from the south,
+  and we could see at some low hills in that direction the smoke
+  arising from the burning settlements. None but men were present,
+  the women and the chief were at the mountain called Pamb&eacute;;
+  all were fully armed with their long bows, some flat in the bow,
+  others round, and it was common to have the quiver on the back,
+  and a bunch of feathers stuck in the hair like those in our
+  Lancers' shakos. But they remained not to fight, but to watch
+  their homes and stores of grain from robbers amongst their own
+  people in case no Mazitu came! They gave a good hut, and sent off
+  at once to let the chief at Pamb&eacute; know of our arrival. We
+  heard the cocks crowing up there in the mountain as we passed in
+  the morning. Chimuna came in the evening, and begged me to remain
+  a day in his village, Pamaloa, as he was the greatest chief the
+  Chip&eacute;ta had. I told him all wished the same thing, and if
+  I listened to each chief we should never get on, and the rains
+  were near, but we had to stay over with him.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;All the people came down
+  to-day from Pamb&eacute;, and crowded to see the strangers. They
+  know very little beyond their own affairs, though these require a
+  good deal of knowledge, and we should be sorely put about
+  <a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>if, without their skill, we
+  had to maintain an existence here. Their furnaces are rather
+  bottle shaped, and about seven feet high by three broad. One
+  toothless patriarch had heard of books and umbrellas, but had
+  never seen either. The oldest inhabitant had never travelled far
+  from the spot in which he was born, yet he has a good knowledge
+  of soils and agriculture, hut-building, basket-making, pottery,
+  and the manufacture of bark-cloth and skins for clothing, as also
+  making of nets, traps, and cordage.</p>
+
+  <p>Chimuna had a most ungainly countenance, yet did well enough:
+  he was very thankful for a blister on his loins to ease rheumatic
+  pains, and presented a huge basket of porridge before starting,
+  with a fowl, and asked me to fire a gun that the Mazitu might
+  hear and know that armed men were here. They all say that these
+  marauders flee from fire-arms, so I think that they are not Zulus
+  at all, though adopting some of their ways.</p>
+
+  <p>In going on to Mapuio's we passed several large villages, each
+  surrounded by the usual euphorbia hedge, and having large trees
+  for shade. We are on &amp; level, or rather gently amdulating
+  country, rather bare of trees. At the junctions of these earthen
+  waves we have always an oozing bog, this often occurs in the
+  slope down the trough of this terrestrial sea; bushes are common,
+  and of the kind which were cut down as trees. Yellow haematite is
+  very abundant, but the other rocks scarcely appear in the
+  distance; we have mountains both on the east and west.</p>
+
+  <p>On arriving at Mapuio's village, he was, as often happens,
+  invisible, but he sent us a calabash of fresh-made beer, which is
+  very refreshing, gave us a hut, and promised to cook for us in
+  the evening. We have to employ five or six carriers, and they
+  rule the length of the day's march. Those from Chimuna's village
+  growled at the cubit of calico with which we paid them, but a few
+  beads pleased them perfectly, and we parted good friends. It is
+  not likely I shall ever <a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>see
+  them again, but I always like to please them, because it is right
+  to consider their desires. Is that not what is meant in "Blessed
+  is he that considereth the poor"? There is a great deal of good
+  in these poor people. In cases of <i>milando</i> they rely on the
+  most distant relations and connections to plead their cause, and
+  seldom are they disappointed, though time at certain seasons, as
+  for instance at present, is felt by all to be precious. Every man
+  appears with hoe or axe on shoulder, and the people often only
+  sit down as we pass and gaze at us till we are out of sight.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+    <a name="p140" id="p140"></a> <img src="images/p140.png" width=
+    "200" height="97" alt="Women's Teeth hollowed." title=
+    "Women's Teeth hollowed." /> <b>Women's Teeth hollowed.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Many of the men have large slits in the lobe of the ear, and
+  they have their distinctive tribal tattoo. The women indulge in
+  this painful luxury more than the men, probably because they have
+  very few ornaments. The two central front teeth are hollowed at
+  the cutting edge. Many have quite the Grecian facial angle.
+  Mapuio has thin legs and quite a European face. Delicate features
+  and limbs are common, and the spur-heel is as scarce as among
+  Europeans; small feet and hands are the rule.</p>
+
+  <p>Clapping the hands in various ways is the polite way of saying
+  "Allow me," "I beg pardon," "Permit me to pass," "Thanks," it is
+  resorted to in respectful introduction and leave-taking, and also
+  is equivalent to "Hear hear." When inferiors are called they
+  respond by two brisk claps of the hands, meaning "I am coming."
+  They are very punctilious amongst each other. A large ivory
+  bracelet marks the headman of a village; there is nothing else to
+  show differences of rank.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;We spent Sunday at Mapuio's
+  and had a long talk with him; his country is in a poor state from
+  the continual incursions of the Mazitu, who are wholly
+  unchecked.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;We marched westwards to
+  Makosa's village, and could not go further, as the next stage is
+  long and <a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a>through an
+  ill-peopled country. The morning was lovely, the whole country
+  bathed in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air disturbed the
+  smoke as it slowly curled up from the heaps of burning weeds,
+  which the native agriculturist wisely destroys. The people
+  generally were busy hoeing in the cool of the day. One old man in
+  a village where we rested had trained the little hair he had left
+  into a tail, which, well plastered with fat, he had bent on
+  itself and laid flat on his crown; another was carefully paring a
+  stick for stirring the porridge, and others were enjoying the
+  cool shade of the wild fig-trees which are always planted at
+  villages. It is a sacred tree all over Africa and India, and the
+  tender roots which drop down towards the ground are used as
+  medicine&mdash;a universal remedy. Can it be a tradition of its
+  being like the tree of life, which Archbishop Whately conjectures
+  may have been used in Paradise to render man immortal? One kind
+  of fig-tree is often seen hacked all over to get the sap, which
+  is used as bird-lime; bark-cloth is made of it too. I like to see
+  the men weaving or spinning, or reclining under these glorious
+  canopies, as much as I love to see our more civilized people
+  lolling on their sofas or ottomans.</p>
+
+  <p>The first rain&mdash;a thunder shower&mdash;fell in the
+  afternoon, air in shade before it 92&deg;; wet bulb 74&deg;. At
+  noon the soil in the sun was 140&deg;, perhaps more, but I was
+  afraid of bursting the thermometer, as it was graduated only a
+  few degrees above that. This rain happened at the same time that
+  the sun was directly overhead on his way south; it was but a
+  quarter of an inch, but its effect was to deprive us of all
+  chance of getting the five carriers we needed, all were off to
+  their gardens to commit the precious seed to the soil. We got
+  three, but no one else would come, so we have to remain here over
+  to-day (30th October).</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th October, 1866.</i>&mdash;The black traders come from
+  Tette to this country to buy slaves, and as a consequence here we
+  come <a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>to bugs again, which we
+  left when we passed the Arab slave-traders' beat.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st October, 1866.</i>&mdash;We proceed westwards, and a
+  little south through a country covered with forest trees, thickly
+  planted, but small, generally of bark-cloth and gum-copal trees,
+  masukos, rhododendrons, and a few acacias. At one place we saw
+  ten wild hogs in a group, but no other animal, though marks of
+  elephants, buffaloes, and other animals having been about in the
+  wet season were very abundant. The first few miles were rather
+  more scant of water than usual, but we came to the Leu&eacute;, a
+  fine little stream with plenty of water sand from 20 to 30 yards
+  wide; it is said by the people to flow away westwards into the
+  Loangwa.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st November 1866.</i>&mdash;In the evening we made the
+  Chigumokir&eacute;, a nice rivulet, where we slept, and the next
+  morning we proceeded to Kangen&eacute;, whose village is situated
+  on a mass of mountains, and to reach which we made more southing
+  than we wished. Our appearance on the ascent of the hill caused
+  alarm, and we were desired to wait till our spokesman had
+  explained the unusual phenomenon of a white man.</p>
+
+  <p>This kept us waiting in the hot sun among heated rocks, and
+  the chief, being a great ugly public-house-keeper looking person,
+  excused his incivility by saying that his brother had been killed
+  by the Mazitu, and he was afraid that we were of the same tribe.
+  On asking if Mazitu wore clothes like us he told some untruths,
+  and, what has been an unusual thing, began to beg powder and
+  other things. I told him how other chiefs had treated us, which
+  made him ashamed. He represented the country in front to the N.W.
+  to be quite impassable from want of food: the Mazitu had stripped
+  it of all provisions, and the people were living on what wild
+  fruits they could pick up.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a><i>2nd November,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;Kangen&eacute; is very disagreeable naturally,
+  and as we have to employ five men as carriers, we are in his
+  power.</p>
+
+  <p>We can scarcely enter into the feelings of those who are
+  harried by marauders. Like Scotland in the twelfth and thirteenth
+  centuries harassed by Highland Celts on one side and by English
+  Marchmen on the other, and thus kept in the rearward of
+  civilisation, these people have rest neither for many days nor
+  for few. When they fill their garners they can seldom reckon on
+  eating the grain, for the Mazitu come when the harvest is over
+  and catch as many able-bodied young persons as they can to carry
+  away the corn. Thus it was in Scotland so far as security for
+  life and property was concerned; but the Scotch were apt pupils
+  of more fortunate nations. To change of country they were as
+  indifferent as the Romans of the olden times; they were always
+  welcome in France, either as pilgrims, scholars, merchants, or
+  soldiers; but the African is different. If let alone the
+  African's mode of life is rather enjoyable; he loves agriculture,
+  and land is to be had anywhere. He knows nothing of other
+  countries, but he has imbibed the idea of property in man. This
+  Kangen&eacute; told me that he would like to give me a slave to
+  look after my goats: I believe he would rather give a slave than
+  a goat!</p>
+
+  <p>We were detained by the illness of Simon for four days. When
+  he recovered we proposed to the headman to start with five of his
+  men, and he agreed to let us have them; but having called them
+  together such an enormous demand was made for wages, and in
+  advance, that on the 7th of November we took seven loads forward
+  through a level uninhabited country generally covered with small
+  trees, slept there, and on the morning of the 8th, after leaving
+  two men at our dep&ocirc;t, came back, and took the remaining
+  five loads.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>Kangen&eacute; was
+  disagreeable to the last. He asked where we had gone, and, having
+  described the turning point as near the hill Chimbimb&eacute;, he
+  complimented us on going so far, and then sent an offer of three
+  men; but I preferred not to have those who would have been spies
+  unless he could give five and take on all the loads. He said that
+  he would find the number, and after detaining us some hours
+  brought two, one of whom, primed with beer, babbled out that he
+  was afraid of being killed by us in front. I asked whom we had
+  killed behind, and moved off. The headman is very childish, does
+  women's work&mdash;cooking and pounding; and in all cases of that
+  kind the people take after their leader. The chiefs have scarcely
+  any power unless they are men of energy; they have to court the
+  people rather than be courted. We came much further back on our
+  way from Mapuio's than we liked; in fact, our course is like that
+  of a vessel baffled with foul winds: this is mainly owing to
+  being obliged to avoid places stripped of provisions or suffering
+  this spoliation. The people, too, can give no information about
+  others at a distance from their own abodes. Even the smiths, who
+  are a most plodding set of workers, are as ignorant as the
+  others: they supply the surrounding villages with hoes and
+  knives, and, combining agriculture with handicraft, pass through
+  life. An intelligent smith came as our guide from
+  Chimbimb&eacute; Hill on the 7th, and did not know a range of
+  mountains about twenty miles off: "it was too far off for him to
+  know the name."</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;The country over which we
+  actually travel is level and elevated, but there are mountains
+  all about, which when put on the map make it appear to be a
+  mountainous region. We are on the watershed, apparently between
+  the Loangwa of Zumbo on the west, and the Lake on the east. The
+  Leu&eacute; or Leuia is said by the people to flow into the
+  Loangwa. The Chigumokir&eacute; coming from the <a name=
+  "Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>north in front, eastward of
+  Irongw&eacute; (the same mountains on which Kangen&eacute; skulks
+  out of sight of Mazitu), flows into the Leu&eacute;, and north of
+  that we have the Mando, a little stream, flowing into the Bua.
+  The rivulets on the west flow in deep defiles, and the elevation
+  on which we travel makes it certain that no water can come from
+  the lower lands on the west. It seems that the Portuguese in
+  travelling to Casembe did not inquire of the people where the
+  streams they crossed went, for they are often wrongly put, and
+  indicate the direction only in which they appeared to be flowing
+  at their crossing places. The natives have a good idea generally
+  of the rivers into which the streams flow, though they are very
+  deficient in information as to the condition of the people that
+  live on their banks. Some of the Portuguese questions must have
+  been asked through slaves, who would show no hesitation in
+  answering. Maxinga, or Machinga, means "mountains" only; once or
+  twice it is put down Saxa de Maxinga, or Machinga, or Mcanga,
+  which translated from the native tongue means "rocks of
+  mountains, or mountains of rocks."</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;We found the people on the
+  Mando to be Chawa or Ajawa, but not of the Waiyau race: they are
+  Manganja, and this is a village of smiths. We got five men
+  readily to go back and bring up our loads; and the sound of the
+  hammer is constant, showing a great deal of industry. They
+  combine agriculture, and hunting with nets, with their
+  handicraft.</p>
+
+  <p>A herd of buffaloes came near the village, and I went and shot
+  one, thus procuring a supply of meat for the whole party and
+  villagers too. The hammer which we hear from dawn till sunset is
+  a large stone, bound with the strong inner bark of a tree, and
+  loops left which form handles. Two pieces of bark form the tongs,
+  and a big stone sunk into the ground the anvil. They make several
+  hoes in a day, and the metal is very good; it is all from yellow
+  haematite, <a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>which abounds all
+  over this part of the country; the bellows consist of two
+  goatskins with sticks at the open ends, which are opened and shut
+  at every blast.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p146" id="p146"></a> <img src="images/p146.jpg" width=
+    "354" height="364" alt="Forging Hoes."
+    title="Forging Hoes." /><br />
+    <b>Forging Hoes.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>13th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;A lion came last night and
+  gave a growl or two on finding he could not get our meat: a man
+  had lent us a hunting net to protect it and us from intruders of
+  this sort. The people kept up a shouting for hours afterwards, in
+  order to keep him away by the human voice.</p>
+
+  <p>We might have gone on, but I had a galled heel from new shoes.
+  Wild figs are rather nice when quite ripe.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;We marched northwards round
+  the end of Chisia Hill, and remained for the night at a
+  blacksmith's, or rather founder's village; the two occupations of
+  <a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>founder and smith are always
+  united, and boys taught to be smiths in Europe or India would
+  find themselves useless if unable to smelt the ore. A good
+  portion of the trees of the country have been cut down for
+  charcoal, and those which now spring up are small; certain fruit
+  trees alone are left. The long slopes on the undulating country,
+  clothed with fresh foliage, look very beautiful. The young trees
+  alternate with patches of yellow grass not yet burned; the hills
+  are covered with a thick mantle of small green trees with, as
+  usual, large ones at intervals. The people at Kalumbi, on the
+  Mando (where we spent four days), had once a stockade of wild fig
+  <i>(Ficus Indica)</i> and euphorbia round their village, which
+  has a running rill on each side of it; but the trees which
+  enabled them to withstand a siege by Mazitu fell before elephants
+  and buffaloes during a temporary absence of the villagers; the
+  remains of the stockade are all around it yet. Lions sometimes
+  enter huts by breaking through the roof: elephants certainly do,
+  for we saw a roof destroyed by one; the only chance for the
+  inmates is to drive a spear into the belly of the beast while so
+  engaged.</p>
+
+  <p>A man came and reported the Mazitu to be at Chanyandula's
+  village, where we are going. The headman advised remaining at his
+  village till we saw whether they came this way or went by another
+  path. The women were sent away, but the men went on with their
+  employments; two proceeded with the building of a furnace on an
+  anthill, where they are almost always placed, and they keep a
+  look-out while working. We have the protection of an
+  all-embracing Providence, and trust that He, whose care of His
+  people &laquo;xceeds all that our utmost self-love can attain,
+  will shield us and make our way prosperous.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;An elephant came near enough
+  last night to scream at us, but passed on, warned, perhaps, by
+  the shouting of the villagers not to meddle with man. No Mazitu
+  having come, we marched on and crossed the <a name="Page_148" id=
+  "Page_148"></a>Bua, eight yards wide and knee deep. It rises in
+  the northern hills a little beyond Kanyindula's village, winds
+  round his mountains, and away to the east. The scenery among the
+  mountains is very lovely: they are covered with a close mantle of
+  green, with here and there red and light-coloured patches,
+  showing where grass has been burned off recently and the red clay
+  soil is exposed; the lighter portions are unburned grass or
+  rocks. Large trees are here more numerous, and give an agreeable
+  change of contour to the valleys and ridges of the hills; the
+  boughs of many still retain a tinge of red from young leaves. We
+  came to the Bua again before reaching Kanyenj&eacute;, as
+  Kanyindula's place is called. The iron trade must have been
+  carried on for an immense time in the country, for one cannot go
+  a quarter of a mile without meeting pieces of slag and broken
+  pots, calcined pipes, and fragments of the furnaces, which are
+  converted by the fire into brick. It is curious that the large
+  stone sledge-hammers now in use are not called by the name
+  stone-hammers, but by a distinct word, "kama:" nyundo is one made
+  of iron.</p>
+
+  <p>When we arrived at Kanyenj&eacute;, Kanyindula was out
+  collecting charcoal. He sent a party of men to ask if we should
+  remain next day: an old, unintellectual-looking man was among the
+  number sent, who had twenty-seven rings of elephant's skin on his
+  arm, all killed by himself by the spear alone: he had given up
+  fighting elephants since the Mazitu came, whom we heard had
+  passed away to the south-east of this place, taking all the crops
+  of last year, and the chief alone has food. He gave us some,
+  which was very acceptable, as we got none at the two villages
+  south of this. Kanyindula came himself in the evening, an active,
+  stern-looking man, but we got on very well with him.</p>
+
+  <p>The people say that they were taught to smelt iron by
+  Chisumpi, which is the name of Mulungu (God), and that they came
+  from Lake Nyassa originally; if so, they are <a name="Page_149"
+  id="Page_149"></a>greatly inferior to the Manganja on the Lake in
+  pottery, for the fragments, as well as modern whole vessels, are
+  very coarse; the ornamentation is omitted or merely dots. They
+  never heard of a&euml;rolites, but know hail.</p>
+
+  <p>I notice here that the tree Mfu, or M&ouml;, having
+  sweet-scented leaves, yields an edible plum in clusters. Bua-bwa
+  is another edible fruit-tree with palmated leaves.</p>
+
+  <p>Mb&eacute;u is a climbing, arboraceous plant, and yields a
+  very pleasant fruit, which tastes like gooseberries: its seeds
+  are very minute.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th and 19th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;Rain fell heavily
+  yesterday afternoon, and was very threatening to-day; we remain
+  to sew a calico tent.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;Kanyindula came with three
+  carriers this morning instead of five, and joined them in
+  demanding prepayment: it was natural for him to side with them,
+  as they have more power than he has, in fact, the chiefs in these
+  parts all court their people, and he could feel more interest in
+  them than in an entire stranger whom he might never see again:
+  however, we came on without his people, leaving two to guard the
+  loads.</p>
+
+  <p>About four miles up the valley we came to a village named
+  Kanyenjer&eacute; Mponda, at the fountain-eye of the Bua, and
+  thence sent men back for the loads, while we had the shelter of
+  good huts during a heavy thunder-shower, and made us willing to
+  remain all night. The valley is lovely in the extreme. The
+  mountains on each side are gently rounded, and, as usual, covered
+  over with tree foliage, except where the red soil is exposed by
+  recent grass-burnings. Quartz rocks jut out, and much drift of
+  that material has been carried down by the gullies into the
+  bottom. These gullies being in compact clay, the water has but
+  little power of erosion, so they are worn deep but narrow. Some
+  fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with haematite changed by
+  heat, and magnetic, lay in the gully, <a name="Page_150" id=
+  "Page_150"></a>which had worn itself a channel on the north side
+  of the village. The Bua, like most African streams whose sources
+  I have seen, rises in an oozing boggy spot. Another stream, the
+  Tembw&eacute;, rises near the same spot, and flows N.W. into, the
+  Loangwa. We saw Shuar&eacute; palms in its bed.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st November, 1866.</i>&mdash;We left Bua fountain, lat.
+  13&deg; 40' south, and made a short march to Mokatoba, a
+  stockaded village, where the people refused to admit us till the
+  headman, came. They have a little food here, and sold us some. We
+  have been on rather short commons for some time, and this made
+  our detention agreeable. We rose a little in altitude after
+  leaving this morning, then, though in the same valley, made a
+  little descent towards the N.N.W. High winds came driving over
+  the eastern range, which is called Mchinj&eacute;, and bring
+  large masses of clouds, which are the rain-givers. They seem to
+  come from the south-east. The scenery of the valley is lovely and
+  rich in the extreme. All the foliage is fresh washed and clean;
+  young herbage is bursting through the ground; the air is
+  deliciously cool, and the birds are singing joyfully: one, called
+  Mzi&eacute;, is a good songster, with a loud melodious voice.
+  Large game abounds, but we do not meet with it.</p>
+
+  <p>We are making our way slowly to the north, where food is said
+  to be abundant. I divided about 50 lbs. of powder among the
+  people of my following to shoot with, and buy goats or other food
+  as we could. This reduces our extra loads to three&mdash;four
+  just now, Simon being sick again. He rubbed goat's-fat on a
+  blistered surface, and caused an eruption of pimples.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Mem.</i>&mdash;The people assent by lifting up the head
+  instead of nodding it down as we do; deaf mutes are said to do
+  the same.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd November, 1866.</i>&mdash;Leaving Mokatoba village,
+  and proceeding down the valley, which on the north is shut up
+  apparently by a mountain called Kokw&eacute;, we crossed the
+  <a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a>Kasamba, about two miles
+  from Mokatoba, and yet found it, though so near its source, four
+  yards wide, and knee deep. Its source is about a mile above
+  Mokatoba, in the same valley, with the Bua and Tembw&eacute;. We
+  were told that elephants were near, and we saw where they had
+  been an hour before; but after seeking about could not find them.
+  An old man, in the deep defile between Kokw&eacute; and Yasika
+  Mountains, pointed to the latter, and said, "Elephants! why,
+  there they are. Elephants, or tusks, walking on foot are never
+  absent;" but though we were eager for flesh, we could not give
+  him credit, and went down the defile which gives rise to the
+  Sandili River: where we crossed it in the defile, it was a mere
+  rill, having large trees along its banks, yet it is said to go to
+  the Loangwa of Zumbo, N.W. or N.N.W. We were now in fact upon the
+  slope which inclines to that river, and made a rapid descent in
+  altitude. We reached Silubi's village, on the base of a rocky
+  detached hill. No food to be had; all taken by Mazitu, so Silubi
+  gave me some Masuko fruit instead. They find that they can keep
+  the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence, and hurling stones
+  and arrows down on the invaders: they can defend themselves also
+  by stockades, and these are becoming very general.</p>
+
+  <p>On leaving Silubi's village, we went to a range of hills, and
+  after passing through found that we had a comparatively level
+  country on the north: it would be called a well-wooded country if
+  we looked at it only from a distance. It is formed into long
+  ridges, all green and wooded; but clumps of large trees, where
+  villages have been, or are still situated, show that the sylvan
+  foliage around and over the whole country is that of mere
+  hop-poles. The whole of this upland region might be called woody,
+  if we bear in mind that where the population is dense, and has
+  been long undisturbed, the trees are cut down to the size of low
+  bush. Large districts are kept to about the size of hop-<a name=
+  "Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>poles, growing on pollards three or
+  four feet from the ground, by charcoal burners, who, in all
+  instances, are smiths too.</p>
+
+  <p>On reaching Zeor&eacute;'s village, on the Lokuzhwa, we found
+  it stockaded, and stagnant pools round three sides of it. The
+  Mazitu had come, pillaged all the surrounding villages, looked at
+  this, and then went away; so the people had food to sell. They
+  here call themselves Ech&eacute;wa, and have a different marking
+  from the Atumboka. The men have the hair dressed as if a number
+  of the hairs of elephants' tails were stuck around the head: the
+  women wear a small lip-ring, and a straw or piece of stick in the
+  lower lip, which dangles down about level with the lower edge of
+  the chin: their clothing in front is very scanty. The men know
+  nothing of distant places, the Manganja being a very stay-at-home
+  people. The stockades are crowded with huts, and the children
+  have but small room to play in the narrow spaces between.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;Sunday at Zeor&eacute;'s.
+  The villagers thought we prayed for rain, which was much needed.
+  The cracks in the soil have not yet come together by the
+  &laquo;welling of soil produced by moisture. I disabused their
+  minds about rain-making prayers, and found the headman
+  intelligent.</p>
+
+  <p>I did not intend to notice the Lokuzhwa, it is such a
+  contemptible little rill, and not at present running; but in
+  going to our next point, Mpand&eacute;'s village, we go along its
+  valley, and cross it several times, as it makes for the Loangwa
+  in the north. The valley is of rich dark red loam, and so many
+  lilies of the Amaryllis kind have established themselves as
+  completely to mask the colour of the soil. They form a covering
+  of pure white where the land has been cleared by the hoe. As we
+  go along this valley to the Loangwa, we descend in altitude. It
+  is said to rise at "Nomb&eacute; rum&eacute;," as we formerly
+  heard.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a><i>27th November,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;Zeor&eacute;'s people would not carry without
+  prepayment, so we left our extra loads as usual and went on,
+  sending men back for them: these, however, did not come till
+  27th, and then two of my men got fever. I groan in spirit, and do
+  not know how to make our gear into nine loads only. It is the
+  knowledge that we shall be detained, some two or three months
+  during the heavy rains that makes me cleave to it as means of
+  support.</p>
+
+  <p>Advantage has been taken by the people, of spots where the
+  Lokuzhwa goes round three parts of a circle, to erect their
+  stockaded villages. This is the case here, and the water, being
+  stagnant, engenders disease. The country abounds in a fine light
+  blue flowering perennial pea, which the people make use of as a
+  relish. At present the blossoms only are collected and boiled. On
+  inquiring the name, <i>chil&oacute;b&eacute;</i>, the men asked
+  me if we had none in our country. On replying in the negative,
+  they looked with pity on us: "What a wretched, country not to
+  have chil&oacute;b&eacute;." It is on the highlands above; we
+  never saw it elsewhere! Another species of pea <i>(Chilob&eacute;
+  Weza)</i>, with reddish flowers, is eaten in the same way; but it
+  has spread but little in comparison. It is worth remarking that
+  porridge of maize or sorghum is never offered without some pulse,
+  beans, or bean leaves, or flowers, they seem to feel the need of
+  it, or of pulse, which is richer in flesh-formers than the
+  porridge.</p>
+
+  <p>Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was followed by
+  several half-suppressed screams by a woman. They were quite
+  <i>eldritch</i>, as if she could not get them out. Then succeeded
+  a lot of utterances as if she were in ecstasy, to which a man
+  responded, "Moio, moio." The utterances, so far as I could catch,
+  were in five-syllable snatches&mdash;abrupt and laboured. I
+  wonder if this "bubbling or boiling over" has been preserved as
+  the form in which the true prophets of old gave forth their
+  "burdens"? One sentence, frequently repeated towards the close of
+  the effusion, was "<i>linyama uta</i>," "<a name="Page_154" id=
+  "Page_154"></a>flesh of the bow," showing that the Pythoness
+  loved venison killed by the bow. The people applauded, and
+  attended, hoping, I suppose, that rain would follow her efforts.
+  Next day she was duly honoured by drumming and dancing.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a></p>
+
+  <p>Prevalent beliefs seem to be persistent in certain tribes.
+  That strange idea of property in man that permits him to be sold
+  to another is among the Arabs, Manganja, Makoa, Waiyau, but not
+  among Kaffirs or Zulus, and Bechuanas. If we exclude the Arabs,
+  two families of Africans alone are slavers on the east side of
+  the Continent.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th November, 1866.</i>&mdash;We march to Chilunda's or
+  Embora's, still on the Lokuzhwa, now a sand-stream about twenty
+  yards wide, with pools in its bed; its course is pretty much
+  north or N.N.W. We are now near the Loangwa country, covered with
+  a dense dwarf forest, and the people collected in stockades. This
+  village is on a tongue of land (between Lokuzhwa and another
+  sluggish rivulet), chosen for its strength. It is close to a hill
+  named Chipemba, and there are ranges of hills both east and west
+  in the distance. Embora came to visit us soon after we
+  arrived&mdash;a tall man with a Yankee face. He was very much
+  tickled when asked if he were a Motumboka. After indulging in
+  laughter at the idea of being one of such a small tribe of
+  Manganja, he said proudly, "That he belonged to the
+  Ech&eacute;wa, who inhabited all the country to which I was
+  going." They are generally smiths; a mass of iron had just been
+  brought in to him from some outlying furnaces. It is made into
+  hoes, which are sold for native cloths down the Loangwa.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a><i>3rd December,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;March through a hilly country covered with dwarf
+  forest to Kand&eacute;'s village, still on the Lokuzhwa. We made
+  some westing. The village was surrounded by a dense hedge of
+  bamboo and a species of bushy fig that loves edges of
+  water-bearing streams: it is not found where the moisture is not
+  perennial. Kand&eacute; is a fine tall smith; I asked him if he
+  knew his antecedents; he said he had been bought by Babisa at
+  Chip&eacute;ta, and left at Chilunda's, and therefore belonged to
+  no one. Two Waiyau now volunteered to go on with us, and as they
+  declared their masters were killed by the Mazitu, and
+  Kand&eacute; seemed to confirm them, we let them join. In
+  general, runaway slaves are bad characters, but these two seem
+  good men, and we want them to fill up our complement: another
+  volunteer we employ as goatherd.</p>
+
+  <p>A continuous tap-tapping in the villages shows that bark cloth
+  is being made. The bark, on being removed from the-tree, is
+  steeped in water, or in a black muddy hole, till the outer of the
+  two inner barks can be separated, then commences the tapping with
+  a mallet to separate and soften the fibres. The head of this is
+  often of ebony, with the face cut into small furrows, which,
+  without breaking, separate and soften the fibres.</p>
+
+  <div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+    <a name="p155" id="p155"></a> <img src="images/p155.png" width=
+    "200" height="185" alt="Mallet for Separating Fibres of Bark."
+    title="Mallet for Separating Fibres of Bark." /> <b>Mallet for
+    Separating Fibres of Bark.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>4th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Marched westwards, over a
+  hilly, dwarf forest-covered country: as we advanced, trees
+  increased in size, but no people inhabited it; we spent a
+  miserable night at Kat&eacute;tt&eacute;, wetted by a heavy
+  thunder-shower, which lasted a good while. Morning <i>(5th
+  December</i>) muggy, clouded all over, and rolling thunder in
+  distance. Went three hours with, for a wonder, no water, but made
+  westing chiefly, and got on to the Lokuzhwa again: all the people
+  are collected on it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Too ill to march.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a><i>7th December,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;Went on, and passed Mesumb&eacute;'s village,
+  also protected by bamboos, and came to the hill Mparaw&eacute;,
+  with a village perched on its northern base and well up its
+  sides. The Babisa have begun to imitate the Mazitu by attacking
+  and plundering Manganja villages. Muasi's brother was so
+  attacked, and now is here and eager to attack in return. In
+  various villages we have observed miniature huts, about two feet
+  high, very neatly thatched and plastered, here we noticed them in
+  dozens. On inquiring, we were told that when a child or relative
+  dies one is made, and when any pleasant food is cooked or beer
+  brewed, a little is placed in the tiny hut for the departed soul,
+  which is believed to enjoy it.</p>
+
+  <p>The Lokuzhwa is here some fifty yards wide, and running.
+  Numerous large pitholes in the fine-grained schist in its bed
+  show that much water has flowed in it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;A kind of bean called
+  "chitetta" is eaten here, it is an old acquaintance in the
+  Bechuana country, where it is called "mositsan&eacute;," and is a
+  mere plant; here it becomes a tree, from fifteen to twenty feet
+  high. The root is used for tanning; the bean is pounded, and then
+  put into a sieve of bark cloth to extract, by repeated washings,
+  the excessively astringent matter it contains. Where the people
+  have plenty of water, as here, it is used copiously in various
+  processes, among Bechuanas it is scarce, and its many uses
+  unknown: the pod becomes from fifteen to eighteen inches long,
+  and an inch in diameter.</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;A poor child, whose mother
+  had died, was unprovided for; no one not a relative will nurse
+  another's child. It called out piteously for its mother by name,
+  and the women (like the servants in the case of the poet Cowper
+  when a child), said, "She is coming." I gave it a piece of bread,
+  but it was too far gone, and is dead to-day.</p>
+
+  <p>An alarm of Mazitu sent all the villagers up the sides of
+  <a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>Mparaw&eacute; this morning.
+  The affair was a chase of a hyaena, but everything is Mazitu! The
+  Babisa came here, but were surrounded and nearly all cut off.
+  Muasi was so eager to be off with a party to return the attack on
+  the Mazitu, that, when deputed by the headman to give us a guide,
+  he got the man to turn at the first village, so we had to go on
+  without guides, and made about due north.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;We are now detained in the
+  forest, at a place called Chond&eacute; Forest, by set-in rains.
+  It rains every day, and generally in the afternoon; but the
+  country is not wetted till the "set-in" rains commence; the
+  cracks in the soil then fill up and everything rushes up with
+  astonishing rapidity; the grass is quite crisp and soft. After
+  the fine-grained schist, we came on granite with large flakes of
+  talc in it. This forest is of good-sized trees, many of them
+  mopan&eacute;. The birds now make much melody and noise&mdash;all
+  intent on building.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Across an undulating forest
+  country north we got a man to show us the way, if a pathless
+  forest can so be called. We used a game-path as long as it ran
+  north, but left it when it deviated, and rested under a
+  baobab-tree with a marabou's nest&mdash;a bundle of sticks on a
+  branch; the young ones uttered a hard chuck, chuck, when the old
+  ones flew over them. A sun-bird, with bright scarlet throat and
+  breast, had its nest on another branch, it was formed like the
+  weaver's nest, but without a tube. I observed the dam picking out
+  insects from the bark and leaves of the baobab, keeping on the
+  wing the while: it would thus appear to be insectivorous as well
+  as a honey-bibber. Much spoor of elands, zebras, gnus, kamas,
+  pallahs, buffaloes, reed-bucks, with tsetse, their parasites.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Reached the Tokosusi, which
+  is said to rise at Nomb&eacute; Rum&eacute;, about twenty yards
+  wide and knee deep, swollen by the rains: it had left a cake of
+  black tenacious mud on its banks. Here I got a pallah antelope,
+  and <a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>a very strange flower
+  called "katend&eacute;," which was a whorl of seventy-two flowers
+  sprung from a flat, round root; but it cannot be described. Our
+  guide would have crossed the Tokosusi, which was running
+  north-west to join the Loangwa, and then gone to that river; but
+  always when we have any difficulty the "lazies" exhibit
+  themselves. We had no grain; and three remained behind spending
+  four hours at what we did in an hour and a quarter. Our guide
+  became tired and turned, not before securing another; but he
+  would not go over the Loangwa; no one likes to go out of his own
+  country: he would go westwards to Maranda's, and nowhere else. A
+  "set-in" rain came on after dark, and we went on through slush,
+  the trees sending down heavier drops than the showers as we
+  neared the Loangwa; we forded several deep gullies, all flowing
+  north or north-west into it. The paths were running with water,
+  and when we emerged from the large Mopan&eacute; Forest, we came
+  on the plain of excessively adhesive mud, on which Maranda's
+  stronghold stands on the left bank of Loangwa, here a good-sized
+  river. The people were all afraid of us, and we were mortified to
+  find that food is scarce. The Mazitu have been here three times,
+  and the fear they have inspired, though they were successfully
+  repelled, has prevented agricultural operations from being
+  carried on.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Mem.</i>&mdash;A flake of reed is often used in surgical
+  operations among the natives, as being sharper than their
+  knives.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> A cloth
+      means two yards of unbleached calico.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Chuma
+      remembers part of the words of her song to be as
+      follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+      <p><br />
+      <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Kow&eacute;! kow&eacute;!
+      n'andambwi,</span><br />
+      <span style="margin-left: 2em;">M'vula l&eacute;ru,
+      korol&eacute; ko okw&eacute;,</span><br />
+      <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Waie, ona, kordi,
+      mvula!</span><br /></p>
+
+      <p>He cannot translate it as it is pure Manganja, but with
+      the exception of the first line&mdash;which relates to a
+      little song-bird with a beautiful note, it is a mere
+      reiteration "rain will surely come to-day."&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><a name="Page_159"
+  id="Page_159"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter.
+    Great hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of
+    goats. Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu
+    again. Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim
+    of the great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal
+    gives out. Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the
+    Chambez&eacute;. Death of Chitan&eacute;. Great pinch for food.
+    Disastrous loss of medicine chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The
+    Chambez&eacute;. Beaches Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders
+    from Zanzibar. Sends off letters. Chitapangwa and his people.
+    Complications.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>16th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;We could get no food at any
+  price on 15th, so we crossed the Loangwa, and judged it to be
+  from seventy to a hundred yards wide: it is deep at present, and
+  it must always be so, for some Atumboka submitted to the Mazitu,
+  and ferried them over and back again. The river is said to rise
+  in the north; it has alluvial banks with large forest trees along
+  them, bottom sandy, and great sandbanks are in it like the
+  Zambesi. No guide would come, so we went on without one. The
+  "lazies" of the party seized the opportunity of remaining
+  behind&mdash;wandering, as they said, though all the cross paths
+  were marked.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id=
+  "FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class=
+  "fnanchor">[36]</a> This evening we secured the latitude 12&deg;
+  40' 48" S., which would make our crossing place about 12&deg; 45'
+  S. Clouds prevented observations, as they usually do in the rainy
+  season.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a><i>17 December,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;We went on through a bushy country without paths,
+  and struck the Pamazi, a river of sixty yards wide, in steep
+  banks and in flood, and held on as well as we could through a
+  very difficult country, the river forcing us north-west: I heard
+  hippopotami in it. Game is abundant but wild; we shot two poku
+  antelopes<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id=
+  "FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class=
+  "fnanchor">[37]</a> here, called "ts&eacute;bulas," which drew a
+  hunter to us, who consented for meat and pay to show us a ford.
+  He said that the Pamazi rises in a range of mountains we can now
+  see (in general we could see no high ground during our marches
+  for the last fortnight), we forded it, thigh deep on one side and
+  breast deep on the other. We made only about three miles of
+  northing, and found the people on the left bank uncivil: they
+  would not lend a hut, so we soon put up a tent of waterproof
+  cloth and branches.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;As the men grumbled at their
+  feet being pierced by thorns in the trackless portions we had
+  passed I was anxious to get a guide, but the only one we could
+  secure would go to Molenga's only; so I submitted, though this
+  led us east instead of north. When we arrived we were asked what
+  we wanted, seeing we brought neither slaves nor ivory: I replied
+  it was much against our will that we came; but the guide had
+  declared that this was the only way to Casembe's, our next stage.
+  To get rid of us they gave a guide, and we set forward
+  northwards. The Mopan&eacute; Forest is perfectly level, and
+  after rains the water stands in pools; but during most of the
+  year it is dry. The trees here were very large, and planted some
+  twenty or thirty yards apart: as there are no branches on their
+  lower parts animals see very far. I shot a gnu, but wandered in
+  coming back to the party, and did not find them till it was
+  getting dark. Many parts of the plain are thrown up into heaps,
+  of about the size of one's cap <a name="Page_161" id=
+  "Page_161"></a>(probably by crabs), which now, being hard, are
+  difficult to walk over; under the trees it is perfectly smooth.
+  The Mopan&eacute;-tree furnishes the iron wood of the Portuguese
+  Pao Ferro: it is pretty to travel in and look at the bright
+  sunshine of early morning; but the leaves hang perpendicularly as
+  the sun rises high, and afford little or no shade through the
+  day,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> so as the land is
+  clayey, it becomes hard-baked thereby.</p>
+
+  <p>We observed that the people had placed corn-granaries at
+  different parts of this forest, and had been careful to leave no
+  track to them&mdash;a provision in case of further visits of
+  Mazitu. King-hunters<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id=
+  "FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class=
+  "fnanchor">[39]</a> abound, and make the air resound with their
+  stridulous notes, which commence with a sharp, shrill cheep, and
+  then follows a succession of notes, which resembles a pea in a
+  whistle. Another bird is particularly conspicuous at present by
+  its chattering activity, its nest consists of a bundle of fine
+  seed-stalks of grass hung at the end of a branch, the free ends
+  being left untrimmed, and no attempt at concealment made. Many
+  other birds are now active, and so many new notes are heard, that
+  it is probable this is a richer ornithological region than the
+  Zambesi. Guinea-fowl and francolins are in abundance, and so
+  indeed are all the other kinds of game, as zebras, pallahs,
+  gnus.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;I got a fine male kudu. We
+  have no grain, and live on meat alone, but I am better off than
+  the men, inasmuch as I get a little goat's-milk besides. The kudu
+  stood five feet six inches high; horns, three feet on the
+  straight.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Reached Casembe,<a name=
+  "FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> a miserable hamlet
+  <a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>of a few huts. The people
+  here are very suspicious, and will do nothing but with a haggle
+  for prepayment; we could get no grain, nor even native herbs,
+  though we rested a day to try.</p>
+
+  <p>After a short march we came to the Nyamazi, another
+  considerable rivulet coming from the north to fall into the
+  Loangwa. It has the same character, of steep alluvial banks, as
+  Pamazi, and about the same width, but much shallower; loin deep,
+  though somewhat swollen; from fifty to sixty yards wide. We came
+  to some low hills, of coarse sandstone, and on crossing these we
+  could see, by looking back, that for many days we had been
+  travelling over a perfectly level valley, clothed with a mantle
+  of forest. The barometers had shown no difference of level from
+  about 1800 feet above the sea. We began our descent into this
+  great valley when we left the source of the Bua; and now these
+  low hills, called Ngal&eacute; or Ngaloa, though only 100 feet or
+  so above the level we had left, showed that we had come to the
+  shore of an ancient lake, which probably was let off when the
+  rent of Kebra-basa on the Zambesi was made, for we found immense
+  banks of well-rounded shingle above&mdash;or, rather, they may be
+  called mounds of shingle&mdash;all of hard silicious schist with
+  a few pieces of fossil-wood among them. The gullies reveal a
+  stratum of this well-rounded shingle, lying on a soft greenish
+  sandstone, which again lies on the coarse sandstone first
+  observed. This formation is identical with that observed formerly
+  below the Victoria Falls. We have the mountains still on our
+  north and north-west (the so-called mountains of Bisa, or
+  Babisa), and from them the Nyamazi flows, while Pamazi comes
+  round the end, or what appears to be the end, of the higher
+  portion. <i>(22nd December, 1866.)</i> Shot a bush-buck; and
+  slept on the left bank of Nyamazi.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Hunger sent us on; for a
+  meat diet is far from satisfying: we all felt very weak on it,
+  and soon <a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>tired on a march,
+  but to-day we hurried on to Kavimba, who successfully beat off
+  the Mazitu. It is very hot, and between three and four hours is a
+  good day's march. On sitting down to rest before entering the
+  village we were observed, and all the force of the village issued
+  to kill us as Mazitu, but when we stood up the mistake was
+  readily perceived, and the arrows were placed again in their
+  quivers. In the hut four Mazitu shields show that they did not
+  get it all their own way; they are miserable imitations of Zulu
+  shields, made of eland and water-buck's hides, and ill sewn.</p>
+
+  <p>A very small return present was made by Kavimba, and nothing
+  could be bought except at exorbitant prices. We remained all day
+  on the 24th haggling and trying to get some grain. He took a
+  fancy to a shirt, and left it to his wife to bargain for. She got
+  the length of cursing and swearing, and we bore it, but could get
+  only a small price for it. We resolved to hold our Christmas some
+  other day, and in a better place. The women seem ill-regulated
+  here&mdash;Kavimba's brother had words with his spouse, and at
+  the end of every burst of vociferation on both sides called out,
+  "Bring the Muavi! bring the Muavi!" or ordeal.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Christmas-day, 1866.</i>&mdash;No one being willing to
+  guide us to Moerwa's, I hinted to Kavimba that should we see a
+  rhinoceros I would kill it. He came himself, and led us on where
+  he expected to find these animals, but we saw only their
+  footsteps. We lost our four goats somewhere&mdash;stolen or
+  strayed in the pathless forest, we do not know which, but the
+  loss I felt very keenly, for whatever kind of food we had, a
+  little milk made all right, and I felt strong and well, but
+  coarse food hard of digestion without it was very trying. We
+  spent the 26th in searching for them, but all in vain. Kavimba
+  had a boy carrying two huge elephant spears, with these he
+  attacks that large animal single-handed. We parted from him, as I
+  thought, good friends, but a man who volunteered to act as guide
+  saw him in the forest <a name="Page_164" id=
+  "Page_164"></a>afterwards, and was counselled by him to leave us
+  as we should not pay him. This hovering near us after we parted
+  makes me suspect Kavimba of taking the goats, but I am not
+  certain. The loss affected me more than I could have imagined. A
+  little indigestible porridge, of scarcely any taste, is now my
+  fare, and it makes me dream of better.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Our guide asked for his
+  cloth to wear on the way, as it was wet and raining, and his bark
+  cloth was a miserable covering. I consented, and he bolted on the
+  first opportunity; the forest being so dense he was soon out of
+  reach of pursuit: he had been advised to this by Kavimba, and
+  nothing else need have been expected. We then followed the track
+  of a travelling party of Babisa, but the grass springs up over
+  the paths, and it was soon lost: the rain had fallen early in
+  these parts, and the grass was all in seed. In the afternoon we
+  came to the hills in the north where Nyamazi rises, and went up
+  the bed of a rivulet for some time, and then ascended out of the
+  valley. At the bottom of the ascent and in the rivulet the
+  shingle stratum was sometimes fifty feet thick, then as we
+  ascended we met mica schist tilted on edge, then grey gneiss, and
+  last an igneous trap among quartz rocks, with a great deal of
+  bright mica and talc in them. On resting near the top of the
+  first ascent two honey hunters came to us. They were using the
+  honey-guide as an aid, the bird came to us as they arrived,
+  waited quietly during the half-hour they smoked and chatted, and
+  then went on with them.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id=
+  "FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class=
+  "fnanchor">[41]</a></p>
+
+  <p>The tsetse flies, which were very numerous at the bottom, came
+  up the ascent with us, but as we increased our altitude by
+  another thousand feet they gradually dropped off and left us:
+  only one remained in the evening, and he <a name="Page_165" id=
+  "Page_165"></a>seemed out of spirits. Near sunset we encamped by
+  water on the cool height, and made our shelters with boughs of
+  leafy trees; mine was rendered perfect by Dr. Stenhouse's
+  invaluable patent cloth, which is very superior to mackintosh:
+  indeed the india-rubber cloth is not to be named in the same day
+  with it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;Three men, going to hunt
+  bees, came to us as we were starting and assured us that Moerwa's
+  was near. The first party had told us the same thing, and so
+  often have we gone long distances as "<i>pafupi</i>" (near), when
+  in reality they were "<i>patari</i>" (far), that we begin to
+  think <i>pafupi</i> means "I wish you to go there," and
+  <i>patari</i> the reverse. In this case <i>near</i> meant an hour
+  and three-quarters from our sleeping-place to Moerwa's!</p>
+
+  <p>When we look back from the height to which we have ascended we
+  see a great plain clothed with dark green forest except at the
+  line of yellowish grass, where probably the Loangwa flows. On the
+  east and south-east this plain is bounded at the extreme range of
+  our vision by a wall of dim blue mountains forty or fifty miles
+  off. The Loangwa is said to rise in the Chibal&eacute; country
+  due north of this Malambw&eacute; (in which district Moerwa's
+  village is situated), and to flow S.E., then round to where we
+  found it.</p>
+
+  <p>Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man, though
+  he has a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, and tried the
+  usual little arts of getting us to buy all we need here though
+  the prices are exorbitant. "No people in front, great hunger
+  there." "We must buy food here and carry it to support us." On
+  asking the names of the next headman he would not inform me, till
+  I told him to try and speak like a man; he then told us that the
+  first Lobemba chief was Motuna, and the next Chafunga. We have
+  nothing, as we saw no animals in our way hither, and hunger is
+  ill to bear. By giving Moerwa a good large cloth he was induced
+  to cook a mess of ma&euml;re or millet and elephant's stomach; it
+  was so good to get a full meal <a name="Page_166" id=
+  "Page_166"></a>that I could have given him another cloth, and the
+  more so as it was accompanied by a message that he would cook
+  more next day and in larger quantity. On inquiring next evening
+  he said "the man had told lies," he had cooked nothing more: he
+  was prone to lie himself, and was a rather bad specimen of a
+  chief.</p>
+
+  <p>The Babisa have round bullet heads, snub noses, often high
+  cheek-bones, an upward slant of the eyes, and look as if they had
+  a lot of Bushman blood in them, and a good many would pass for
+  Bushmen or Hottentots. Both Babisa and Waiyau may have a mixture
+  of the race, which would account for their roving habits. The
+  women have the fashion of exposing the upper part of the buttocks
+  by letting a very stiff cloth fall down behind. Their teeth are
+  filed to points, they wear no lip-ring, and the hair is parted so
+  as to lie in a net at the back part of the head. The mode of
+  salutation among the men is to lie down nearly on the back,
+  clapping the hands, and making a rather inelegant half-kissing
+  sound with the lips.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th December, 1866.</i>&mdash;We remain a day at
+  Malambw&eacute;, but get nothing save a little
+  ma&euml;re,<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id=
+  "FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class=
+  "fnanchor">[42]</a> which grates in the teeth and in the stomach.
+  To prevent the Mazitu starving them they cultivate small round
+  patches placed at wide intervals in the forest, with which the
+  country is covered. The spot, some ten yards or a little more in
+  diameter, is manured with ashes and planted with this millet and
+  pumpkins, in order that should Mazitu come they may be unable to
+  carry off the pumpkins, or gather the millet, the seed of which
+  is very small. They have no more valour than the other Africans,
+  but more craft, and are much given to falsehood. They will not
+  answer common questions except by misstatements, but this may
+  arise in our case from our being in disfavour, because we will
+  not sell all our goods to them for ivory.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a><i>30th December,
+  1866.</i>&mdash;Marched for Chitemba's, because it is said he has
+  not fled from the Mazitu, and therefore has food to spare. While
+  resting, Moerwa, with all his force of men, women, and dogs, came
+  up, on his way to hunt elephants. The men were furnished with big
+  spears, and their dogs are used to engage the animal's attention
+  while they spear it; the women cook the meat and make huts, and a
+  smith goes with them to mend any spear that may be broken.</p>
+
+  <p>We pass over level plateaux on which the roads are wisely
+  placed, and do not feel that we are travelling in a mountainous
+  region. It is all covered with dense forest, which in many cases
+  is pollarded, from being cut for bark cloth or for hunting
+  purposes. Masuko fruit abounds. From the cisalpinae and gum-copal
+  trees bark cloth is made.</p>
+
+  <p>We now come to large masses of haematite, which is often
+  ferruginous: there is conglomerate too, many quartz pebbles being
+  intermixed. It seems as if when the lakes existed in the lower
+  lands, the higher levels gave forth great quantities of water
+  from chalybeate fountains, which deposited this iron ore. Grey
+  granite or quartz with talc in it or gneiss lie under the
+  haematite.</p>
+
+  <p>The forest resounds with singing birds, intent on
+  nidification. Francolins abound, but are wild. "Whip-poor-wills,"
+  and another bird, which has a more laboured treble note and
+  voice&mdash;"Oh, oh, oh!" Gay flowers blush unseen, but the
+  people have a good idea of what is eatable and what not. I looked
+  at a woman's basket of leaves which she had collected for supper,
+  and it contained eight or ten kinds, with mushrooms and
+  orchidaceous flowers. We have a succession of showers to-day,
+  from N.E. and E.N.E. We are uncertain when we shall come to a
+  village, as the Babisa will not tell us where they are situated.
+  In the evening we encamped beside a little rill, and made our
+  shelters, but we had so little to eat that I dreamed the night
+  long of dinners I had eaten, and might have been eating.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>I shall make this
+  beautiful land better known, which is an essential part of the
+  process by which it will become the "pleasant haunts of men." It
+  is impossible to describe its rich luxuriance, but most of it is
+  running to waste through the slave-trade and internal wars.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st December, 1866.</i>&mdash;When we started this morning
+  after rain, all the trees and grass dripping, a lion roared, but
+  we did not see him. A woman had come a long way and built a neat
+  miniature hut in the burnt-out ruins of her mother's house: the
+  food-offering she placed in it, and the act of filial piety, no
+  doubt comforted this poor mourner's heart!</p>
+
+  <p>We arrived at Chitembo's village and found it deserted. The
+  Babisa dismantle their huts and carry off the thatch to their
+  gardens, where they live till harvest is over. This fallowing of
+  the framework destroys many insects, but we observed that
+  wherever Babisa and Arab slavers go they leave the breed of the
+  domestic bug: it would be well if that were all the ill they did!
+  Chitembo was working in his garden when we arrived, but soon
+  came, and gave us the choice of all the standing huts: he is an
+  old man, much more frank and truthful than our last headman, and
+  says that Chitapanga is paramount chief of all the Abemba.</p>
+
+  <p>Three or four women whom we saw performing a rain dance at
+  Moerwa's were here doing the same; their faces smeared with meal,
+  and axes in their hands, imitating as well as they could the male
+  voice. I got some ma&euml;re or millet here and a fowl.</p>
+
+  <p>We now end 1866. It has not been so fruitful or useful as I
+  intended. Will try to do better in 1867, and be better&mdash;more
+  gentle and loving; and may the Almighty, to whom I commit my way,
+  bring my desires to pass, and prosper me! Let all the sins of '66
+  be blotted out for Jesus' sake.</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p><i>1st January, 1867.</i>&mdash;May He who was full of grace
+  and truth impress His character on mine. Grace&mdash;eagerness to
+  <a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>show favour;
+  truth&mdash;truthfulness, sincerity, honour&mdash;for His mercy's
+  sake.</p>
+
+  <p>We remain to-day at Mbulukuta-Chitembo's district, by the
+  boys' desire, because it is New Year's day, and also because we
+  can get some food.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd and 3rd January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Remain on account of a
+  threatened <i>set-in</i> rain. Bought a senz&eacute;
+  <i>(Aulocaudatus Swindernianus)</i>, a rat-looking animal; but I
+  was glad to get anything in the shape of meat.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;It is a <i>set-in</i> rain.
+  The boiling-point thermometer shows an altitude of 3565 feet
+  above the sea. Barometer, 3983 feet ditto. We get a little
+  ma&euml;re here, and prefer it to being drenched and our goods
+  spoiled. We have neither sugar nor salt, so there are no soluble
+  goods; but cloth and gunpowder get damaged easily. It is hard
+  fare and scanty; I feel always hungry, and am constantly dreaming
+  of better food when I should be sleeping. Savoury viands of
+  former times come vividly up before the imagination, even in my
+  waking hours; this is rather odd as I am not a dreamer; indeed I
+  scarcely ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually
+  so.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a></p>
+
+  <p>We are on the northern brim (or north-western rather) of the
+  great Loangwa Valley we lately crossed: the rain coming from the
+  east strikes it, and is deposited both above and below, while
+  much of the valley itself is not yet well wetted. Here all the
+  grasses have run up to seed, and yet they are not more than two
+  feet or so in the seed-stalks. The pasturage is very fine. The
+  people employ these continuous or <i>set-in</i> rains for hunting
+  the elephant, which gets bogged, and sinks in from fifteen to
+  eighteen inches in soft <a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>mud,
+  then even he, the strong one, feels it difficult to
+  escape.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a></p>
+
+  <p><i>5th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Still storm-stayed. We shall
+  be off as soon as we get a fair day and these heavy rains
+  cease.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;After service two men came and
+  said that they were going to Lobemba, and would guide us to
+  Motuna's village; another came a day or two ago, but he had such
+  a villainous look we all shrank from him. These men's faces
+  pleased us, but they did not turn out all we expected, for they
+  guided us away westwards without a path: it was a drizzling rain,
+  and this made us averse to striking off in the forest without
+  them. No inhabitants now except at wide intervals, and no animals
+  either. In the afternoon we came to a deep ravine full of
+  gigantic timber trees and bamboos, with the Mavoch&eacute; River
+  at the bottom. The dampness had caused the growth of lichens all
+  over the trees, and the steep descent was so slippery that two
+  boys fell, and he who carried the chronometers, twice: this was a
+  misfortune, as it altered the rates, as was seen by the first
+  comparison of them together in the evening. No food at Motuna's
+  village, yet the headman tried to extort two fathoms of calico on
+  the ground that he was owner of the country: we offered to go out
+  of his village and make our own sheds on "God's land," that is,
+  where it is uncultivated, rather than have any words about it: he
+  then begged us to stay. A very high mountain called
+  Chikokw&eacute; appeared W.S.W. from this village; the people who
+  live on it are called Matumba; this part is named Lokumbi, but
+  whatever the name, all the people are Babisa, the dependants of
+  the Babemba, reduced by their own slaving habits to a miserable
+  jungly state. They feed much on wild fruits, roots, and leaves;
+  and yet are generally plump. They use a wooden hoe for <a name=
+  "Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>sowing their ma&euml;re, it is a
+  sort of V-shaped implement, made from a branch with another
+  springing out of it, about an inch in diameter at the sharp
+  point, and with it they claw the soil after scattering the seed;
+  about a dozen young men were so employed in the usual small
+  patches as we passed in the morning.</p>
+
+  <p>The country now exhibits the extreme of leafiness and the
+  undulations are masses of green leaves; as far as the eye can
+  reach with distinctness it rests on a mantle of that hue, and
+  beyond the scene becomes dark blue. Near at hand many gay flowers
+  peep out. Here and there the scarlet martag&oacute;n (<i>Lilium
+  chalcedonicum</i>), bright blue or yellow gingers; red, orange,
+  yellow, and pure white orchids; pale lobelias, &amp;c.; but they
+  do not mar the general greenness. As we ascended higher on the
+  plateau, grasses, which have pink and reddish brown seed-vessels
+  imparted distinct shades of their colours to the lawns, and were
+  grateful to the eye. We turned aside early in our march to avoid
+  being wetted by rains, and took shelter in some old Babisa sheds;
+  these, when the party is a slaving one, are built so as to form a
+  circle, with but one opening: a ridge pole, or rather a
+  succession of ridge poles, form one long shed all round, with no
+  partitions in the roof-shaped hut.</p>
+
+  <p>On the <i>9th of January</i> we ascended a hardened sandstone
+  range. Two men who accompanied our guide called out every now and
+  then to attract the attention of the honey-guide, but none
+  appeared. A water-buck had been killed and eaten at one spot, the
+  ground showing marks of a severe struggle, but no game was to be
+  seen. Buffaloes and elephants come here at certain seasons; at
+  present they have migrated elsewhere. The valleys are very
+  beautiful: the oozes are covered with a species of short wiry
+  grass, which gives the valleys the appearance of well-kept
+  gentlemen's parks; but they are full of water to
+  overflowing&mdash;immense sponges in fact;&mdash;and one has to
+  watch carefully in crossing them to avoid plunging into deep
+  water-holes, <a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>made by the
+  feet of elephants or buffaloes. In the ooze generally the water
+  comes half-way up the shoe, and we go plash, plash, plash, in the
+  lawn-like glade. There are no people here now in these lovely
+  wild valleys; but to-day we came to mounds made of old for
+  planting grain, and slag from iron furnaces. The guide was rather
+  offended because he did not get meat and meal, though he is
+  accustomed to leaves at home, and we had none to give except by
+  wanting ourselves: he found a mess without much labour in the
+  forest. My stock of meal came to an end to-day, but Simon gave me
+  some of his. It is not the unpleasantness of eating unpalatable
+  food that teases one, but we are never satisfied; I could brace
+  myself to dispose of a very unsavoury mess, and think no more
+  about it; but this ma&euml;re engenders a craving which plagues
+  day and night incessantly.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;We crossed the Muasi, flowing
+  strongly to the east to the Loangwa River.</p>
+
+  <p>In the afternoon an excessively heavy thunderstorm wetted us
+  all to the skin before any shelter could be made. Two of our men
+  wandered, and other two remained behind lost, as our track was
+  washed out by the rains. The country is a succession of enormous
+  waves, all covered with jungle, and no traces of paths; we were
+  in a hollow, and our firing was not heard till this morning, when
+  we ascended a height and were answered. I am thankful that up one
+  was lost, for a man might wander a long time before reaching a
+  village. Simon gave me a little more of his meal this morning,
+  and went without himself: I took my belt up three holes to
+  relieve hunger. We got some wretched wild fruit like that called
+  "jambos" in India, and at midday reached the village of Chafunga.
+  Famine here too, but some men had killed an elephant and came to
+  sell the dried meat: it was high, and so were their prices; but
+  we are obliged to give our best from this craving hunger.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Sitting down this morning
+  near a tree my head was just one yard off a good-sized cobra,
+  coiled up <a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>in the sprouts at
+  its root, but it was benumbed with cold: a very pretty little
+  puff-adder lay in the path, also benumbed; it is seldom that any
+  harm is done by these reptiles here, although it is different in
+  India. We bought up all the food we could get; but it did not
+  suffice for the marches we expect to make to get to the
+  Chambez&eacute;, where food is said to be abundant, we were
+  therefore again obliged to travel on Sunday. We had prayers
+  before starting; but I always feel that I am not doing fight, it
+  lessens the sense of obligation in the minds of my companions;
+  but I have no choice. We went along a rivulet till it ended in a
+  small lake, Mapampa or Chimbw&eacute;, about five miles long, and
+  one and a half broad. It had hippopotami, and the poku fed on its
+  banks.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;We had to cross the
+  Chimbw&eacute; at its eastern end, where it is fully a mile wide.
+  The guide refused to show another and narrower ford up the
+  stream, which emptied into it from the east; and I, being the
+  first to cross, neglected to give orders about the poor little
+  dog, Chitan&eacute;. The water was waist deep, the bottom soft
+  peaty stuff with deep holes in it, and the northern side infested
+  by leeches. The boys were&mdash;like myself&mdash;all too much
+  engaged with preserving their balance to think of the spirited
+  little beast, and he must have swam till he sunk. He was so
+  useful in keeping all the country curs off our huts; none dare to
+  approach and steal, and he never stole himself. He shared the
+  staring of the people with his master, then in the march he took
+  charge of the whole party, running to the front, and again to the
+  rear, to see that all was right. He was becoming yellowish-red in
+  colour; and, poor thing, perished in what the boys all call
+  Chitan&eacute;'s water.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;March through the mountains,
+  which are of beautiful white and pink dolomite, scantily covered
+  with upland trees and vegetation. The rain, as usual, made us
+  halt early, and wild fruits helped to induce us to stay.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>In one place we lighted
+  on a party of people living on Masuko fruit, and making mats of
+  the Shuar&eacute;<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id=
+  "FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class=
+  "fnanchor">[45]</a> palm petioles. We have hard lines ourselves;
+  nothing but a little ma&euml;re porridge and dampers. We roast a
+  little grain, and boil it, to make believe it is coffee. The
+  guide, a maundering fellow, turned because he was not fed better
+  than at home, and because he knew that but for his obstinacy we
+  should not have lost the dog. It is needless to repeat that it is
+  all forest on the northern slopes of the mountains&mdash;open
+  glade and miles of forest; ground at present all sloppy; oozes
+  full and overflowing&mdash;feet constantly wet. Rivulets rush
+  strongly with <i>clear</i> water, though they are in flood: we
+  can guess which are perennial and which mere torrents that dry
+  up; they flow northwards and westwards to the
+  Chambez&eacute;.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Detained in an old Babisa
+  slaving encampment by set-in rain till noon, then set off in the
+  midst of it. Came to hills of dolomite, but all the rocks were
+  covered with white lichens (ash-coloured). The path took us
+  thence along a ridge, which separates the Lotiri, running
+  westwards, and the Lobo, going northwards, and we came at length
+  to the Lobo, travelling along its banks till we reached the
+  village called Lisunga, which was about five yards broad, and
+  very deep, in flood, with clear water, as indeed are all the
+  rivulets now; they can only be crossed by felling a tree on the
+  bant and letting it fall across. They do not abrade their
+  banks&mdash;vegetation protects them. I observed that the brown
+  ibis, a noisy bird, took care to restrain his loud, harsh voice
+  when driven from the tree in which his nest was placed, and when
+  about a quarter of a mile off, then commenced his loud
+  "Ha-ha-ha!"</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;The headman of Lisunga,
+  Chaokila, took our present, and gave nothing in return. A deputy
+  from Chitapangwa came afterwards and demanded a larger <a name=
+  "Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>present, as he was the greater man,
+  and said that if we gave him two fathoms of calico, he would
+  order all the people to bring plenty of food, not here only, but
+  all the way to the paramount chief of Lobemba, Chitapangwa. I
+  proposed that he should begin by ordering Chaokila to give us
+  some in return for our present. This led, as Chaokila told us, to
+  the cloth being delivered to the deputy, and we saw that all the
+  starvelings south of the Chambez&eacute; were poor dependants on
+  the Babemba, or rather their slaves, who cultivate little, and
+  then only in the rounded patches above mentioned, so as to
+  prevent their conquerors from taking away more than a small
+  share. The subjects are Babisa&mdash;a miserable lying lot of
+  serfs. This tribe is engaged in the slave-trade, and the evil
+  effects are seen in their depopulated country and utter distrust
+  of every one.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Raining most of the day.
+  Worked out the longitude of the mountain-station said to be
+  Mpini, but it will be better to name it Chitan&eacute;'s, as I
+  could not get the name from our maundering guide; he probably did
+  not know it. Lat, 11&deg; 9' 2" S.; long. 32&deg; 1' 30" E.</p>
+
+  <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Altitude above sea
+  (barometer)&nbsp; &nbsp; 5353 feet;</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Altitude above sea
+  (boiling-point) 5385 feet.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 19.5em;">&mdash;&mdash;</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 17.5em;">Diff. 32.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+  <p>Nothing but famine and famine prices, the people living on
+  mushrooms and leaves. Of mushrooms we observed that they choose
+  five or six kinds, and rejected ten sorts. One species becomes as
+  large as the crown of a man's hat; it is pure white, with a blush
+  of brown in the middle of the crown, and is very good roasted; it
+  is named "Motenta;" another, Mofeta; 3rd, Bos&eacute;fw&eacute;;
+  4th, Nakabausa; 5th, Chisimb&eacute;, lobulated, green outside,
+  and pink and fleshy inside; <a name="Page_176" id=
+  "Page_176"></a>as a relish to others: some experience must have
+  been requisite to enable them to distinguish the good from the
+  noxious, of which they reject ten sorts.</p>
+
+  <p>We get some elephants' meat from the people, but high is no
+  name for its condition. It is very bitter, but we used it as a
+  relish to the ma&euml;re porridge: none of the animal is wasted;
+  skin and all is cut up and sold, not one of us would touch it
+  with the hand if we had aught else, for the gravy in which we dip
+  our porridge is like an aqueous solution of aloes, but it
+  prevents the heartburn, which ma&euml;re causes when taken alone.
+  I take mushrooms boiled instead; but the meat is never refused
+  when we can purchase it, as it seems to ease the feeling of
+  fatigue which jungle-fruit and fare engenders. The appetite in
+  this country is always very keen, and makes hunger worse to bear:
+  the want of salt, probably, makes the gnawing sensation
+  worse.</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p>[We now come to a disaster which cannot be exaggerated in
+  importance when we witness its after effects month by month on
+  Dr. Livingstone. There can be little doubt that the severity of
+  his subsequent illnesses mainly turned upon it, and it is hardly
+  too much to believe that his constitution from this time was
+  steadily sapped by the effects of fever-poison which he was
+  powerless to counteract, owing to the want of quinine. In his
+  allusion to Bishop Mackenzie's death, we have only a further
+  confirmation of the one rule in all such cases which must be
+  followed, or the traveller in Africa goes&mdash;not with his life
+  in his hand, but in some luckless box, put in the charge of
+  careless servants. Bishop Mackenzie had all his drugs destroyed
+  by the upsetting of a canoe, in which was his case of medicines,
+  and in a moment everything was soaked and spoilt.</p>
+
+  <p>It cannot be too strongly urged on explorers that they should
+  divide their more important medicines in such a way that a
+  <i>total loss</i> shall become well-nigh impossible. Three
+  <a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>or four tin canisters
+  containing some calomel, Dover's powder, colocynth, and, above
+  all, a supply of quinine, can be distributed in different
+  packages, and then, if a mishap occurs similar to that which
+  Livingstone relates, the disaster is not beyond remedy.]</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p><i>20th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;A guide refused, so we
+  marched without one. The two Waiyau, who joined us at
+  Kand&eacute;'s village, now deserted. They had been very faithful
+  all the way, and took our part in every case. Knowing the
+  language well, they were extremely useful, and no one thought
+  that they would desert, for they were free men&mdash;their
+  masters had been killed by the Mazitu&mdash;and this
+  circumstance, and their uniform good conduct, made us trust them
+  more than we should have done any others who had been slaves. But
+  they left us in the forest, and heavy rain came on, which
+  obliterated every vestige of their footsteps. To make the loss
+  the more galling, they took what we could least spare&mdash;the
+  medicine-box, which they would only throw away as soon as they
+  came to examine their booty. One of these deserters exchanged his
+  load that morning with a boy called Baraka, who had charge of the
+  medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done, because
+  with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all
+  Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The
+  Waiyau also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka,
+  while he gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in
+  exchange. The forest was so dense and high, there was no chance
+  of getting a glimpse of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a
+  large box of powder, the flour we had purchased dearly to help us
+  as far as the Chambez&eacute;, the tools, two guns, and a
+  cartridge-pouch; but the medicine-chest was the sorest loss of
+  all! I felt as if I had now received the sentence of death, like
+  poor Bishop Mackenzie.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>All the other goods I had
+  divided in case of loss or desertion, but had never dreamed of
+  losing the precious quinine and other remedies; other losses and
+  annoyances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent of vexations
+  which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and certainly
+  not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an explorer
+  anxious to benefit a country and people&mdash;but this loss I
+  feel most keenly. Everything of this kind happens by the
+  permission of One who watches over us with most tender care; and
+  this may turn out for the best by taking away a source of
+  suspicion among more superstitious, charm-dreading people further
+  north. I meant it as a source of benefit to my party and to the
+  heathen.</p>
+
+  <p>We returned to Lisunga, and got two men off to go back to
+  Chafunga's village, and intercept the deserters if they went
+  there; but it is likely that, having our supply of flour, they
+  will give our route a wide berth and escape altogether. It is
+  difficult to say from the heart, "Thy will be done;" but I shall
+  try. These Waiyau had few advantages: sold into slavery in early
+  life, they were in the worst possible school for learning to be
+  honest and honourable, they behaved well for a long time; but,
+  having had hard and scanty fare in Lobisa, wet and misery in
+  passing through dripping forests, hungry nights and fatiguing
+  days, their patience must have been worn out, and they had no
+  sentiments of honour, or at least none so strong as we ought to
+  have; they gave way to the temptation which their good conduct
+  had led us to put in their way. Some we have come across in this
+  journey seemed born essentially mean and base&mdash;a great
+  misfortune to them and all who have to deal with them, but they
+  cannot be so blamable as those who have no natural tendency to
+  meanness, and whose education has taught them to abhor it. True;
+  yet this loss of the medicine-box gnaws at the heart
+  terribly.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st and 22nd January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Remained at
+  Lisunga&mdash;raining <a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>nearly
+  all day; and we bought all the ma&euml;re the chief would sell.
+  We were now forced to go on and made for the next village to buy
+  food. Want of food and rain are our chief difficulties now, more
+  rain falls here on this northern slope of the upland than
+  elsewhere; clouds come up from the north and pour down their
+  treasures in heavy thunder-showers, which deluge the whole
+  country south of the edge of the plateau: the rain-clouds come
+  from the west chiefly.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd January, 1867.</i>&mdash;A march of five and
+  three-quarter hours brought us yesterday to a village, Chibanda's
+  stockade, where "no food" was the case, as usual. We crossed a
+  good-sized rivulet, the Mapampa (probably ten yards wide),
+  dashing along to the east; all the rest of the way was in dark
+  forest. I sent off the boys to the village of Muasi to buy food,
+  if successful, to-morrow we march for the Chambez&eacute;, on the
+  other side of which all the reports agree in the statement that
+  there plenty of food is to be had. We all feel weak and easily
+  tired, and an incessant hunger teases us, so it is no wonder if
+  so large a space of this paper is occupied by stomach affairs. It
+  has not been merely want of nice dishes, but real biting hunger
+  and faintness.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Four hours through unbroken,
+  dark forest brought us to the Movushi, which here is a sluggish
+  stream, winding through and filling a marshy valley a mile wide.
+  It comes from south-east, and falls into the Chambez&eacute;,
+  about 2' north of our encampment. The village of Moaba is on the
+  east side of the marshy valley of the Movuhi, and very difficult
+  to be approached, as the water is chin-deep in several spots. I
+  decided to make sheds on the west side, and send over for food,
+  which, thanks to the Providence which watches over us, we found
+  at last in a good supply of ma&euml;re and some ground-nuts; but
+  through, all this upland region the trees yielding bark-cloth, or
+  <a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a><i>nyanda</i>, are so
+  abundant, that the people are all well-clothed with it, and care
+  but little for our cloth. Red and pink beads are in fashion, and
+  fortunately we have red.</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p>[We may here add a few particulars concerning beads, which
+  form such an important item of currency all through Africa. With
+  a few exceptions they are all manufactured in Venice. The
+  greatest care must be exercised, or the traveller&mdash;ignorant
+  of the prevailing fashion in the country he is about to
+  explore&mdash;finds himself with an accumulation of beads of no
+  more value than tokens would be if tendered in this country for
+  coin of the realm.</p>
+
+  <p>Thanks to the kindness of Messrs. Levin &amp; Co., the bead
+  merchants, of Bevis Marks, E.C., we have been able to get some
+  idea of the more valuable beads, through a selection made by Susi
+  and Chuma in their warehouse. The Waiyou prefer exceedingly small
+  beads, the size of mustard-seed, and of various colours, but they
+  must be opaque: amongst them dull white chalk varieties, called
+  "Catchokolo," are valuable, besides black and pink, named,
+  respectively, "Bububu" and "Sekunderech&eacute;" = the "dregs of
+  pombe." One red bead, of various sizes, which has a white centre,
+  is always valuable in every part of Africa. It is called
+  "Sami-sami" by the Suah&eacute;l&eacute;, "Chitakaraka" by the
+  Waiyou, "Mangazi," = "blood," by the Nyassa, and was found
+  popular even amongst the Manyuema, under the name of
+  "Maso-kantussi", "bird's eyes." Whilst speaking of this distant
+  tribe, it is interesting to observe that one peculiar long bead,
+  recognised as common in the Manyuema land, is only sent to the
+  West Coast of Africa, and <i>never</i> to the East. On Chuma
+  pointing to it as a sort found at the extreme limit explored by
+  Livingstone, it was at once seen that he must have touched that
+  part of Africa which begins to be within the reach of the traders
+  in the Portuguese settlements. "Machua Kanga" = "guinea fowl's
+  eyes," is another popular <a name="Page_181" id=
+  "Page_181"></a>variety; and the "Moiompio" = "new heart," a large
+  pale blue bead, is a favourite amongst the Wabisa; but by far the
+  most valuable of all is a small white oblong bead, which, when
+  strung, looks like the joints of the cane root, from which it
+  takes its name, "Salani" = cane. Susi says that 1 lb. weight of
+  these beads would buy a tusk of ivory, at the south end of
+  Tanganyika, so big that a strong man could not carry it more than
+  two hours.]</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p><i>25th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Remain and get our ma&euml;re
+  ground into flour. Moaba has cattle, sheep, and goats. The other
+  side of the Chambez&eacute; has everything in still greater
+  abundance; so we may recover our lost flesh. There are buffaloes
+  in this quarter, but we have not got a glimpse of any. If game
+  was to be had, I should have hunted; but the hopo way of hunting
+  prevails, and we pass miles of hedges by which many animals must
+  have perished. In passing-through the forests it is surprising to
+  see none but old footsteps of the game; but the hopo destruction
+  accounts for its absence. When the hedges are burned, then the
+  manured space is planted with pumpkins and calabashes.</p>
+
+  <p>I observed at Chibanda's a few green mushrooms, which, on
+  being peeled, showed a pink, fleshy inside; they are called
+  "chisimba;" and only one or two are put into the mortar, in which
+  the women pound the other kinds, to give relish, it was said, to
+  the mass: I could not ascertain what properties chisimba had when
+  taken alone; but mushroom diet, in our experience, is good only
+  for producing dreams of the roast beef of bygone days. The saliva
+  runs from the mouth in these dreams, and the pillow is wet with
+  it in the mornings.</p>
+
+  <p>These Babisa are full of suspicion; everything has to be paid
+  for accordingly in advance, and we found that giving a present to
+  a chief is only putting it in his power to cheat us out of a
+  supper. They give nothing to each other for <a name="Page_182"
+  id="Page_182"></a>nothing, and if this is enlargement of mind
+  produced by commerce, commend me to the untrading African!</p>
+
+  <p>Fish now appear in the rivulets. Higher altitudes have only
+  small things, not worth catching.</p>
+
+  <p>An owl makes the woods resound by night and early morning with
+  his cries, which consist of a loud, double-initial note, and then
+  a succession of lower descending notes. Another new bird, or at
+  least new to me, makes the forests ring.</p>
+
+  <p>When the vultures see us making our sheds, they conclude that
+  we have killed some animal; but after watching awhile, and seeing
+  no meat, they depart. This is suggestive of what other things
+  prove, that it is only by sight they are guided.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a></p>
+
+  <p>With respect to the native head-dresses the colouring-matter,
+  "nkola," which seems to be camwood, is placed as an ornament on
+  the head, and some is put on the bark-cloth to give it a pleasant
+  appearance. The tree, when cut, is burned to bring out the strong
+  colour, and then, when it is developed, the wood is powdered.</p>
+
+  <p>The gum-copal trees now pour out gum where wounded, and I have
+  seen masses of it fallen on the ground.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Went northwards along the
+  Movushi, near to its confluence with Chambez&eacute;, and then
+  took lodging in a deserted temporary village. In the evening I
+  shot a poku, or ts&eacute;bula, full-grown male. It measured from
+  snout <a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>to insertion of tail,
+  5 feet 3 inches; tail, 1 foot; height at withers, 3 feet;
+  circumference of chest, 5 feet; face to insertion of horns, 9-1/2
+  inches; horns measured on curve, 16 inches. Twelve rings on
+  horns, and one had a ridge behind, 1/2 inch broad, 1/2 inch high,
+  and tapering up the horn; probably accidental. Colour:
+  reddish-yellow, dark points in front of foot and on the ears,
+  belly nearly white. The shell went through from behind the
+  shoulder to the spleen, and burst on the other side, yet he ran
+  100 yards. I felt very thankful to the Giver of all good for this
+  meat.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;A set-in rain all the
+  morning, but having meat we were comfortable in the old huts. In
+  changing my dress this morning I was frightened at my own
+  emaciation.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;- We went five miles along
+  the Movushi and the Chambez&eacute; to a crossing-place said to
+  avoid three rivers on the other side, which require canoes just
+  now, and have none. Our lat. 10&deg; 34' S. The Chambez&eacute;
+  was flooded with clear water, but the lines of bushy trees, which
+  showed its real banks, were not more than forty yards apart, it
+  showed its usual character of abundant animal life in its waters
+  and on its banks, as it wended its way westwards. The canoe-man
+  was excessively suspicious; when prepayment was acceded to, he
+  asked a piece more, and although he was promised full payment as
+  soon as we were all safely across he kept the last man on the
+  south side as a hostage for this bit of calico: he then ran away.
+  They must cheat each other sadly.</p>
+
+  <p>Went northwards, wading across two miles of flooded flats on
+  to which the <i>Clarias Capensis</i>, a species of siluris, comes
+  to forage out of the river. We had the Likindazi, a sedgy stream,
+  with hippopotami, on our right. Slept in forest without seeing
+  anyone. Then next day we met with a party who had come from their
+  village to look for us. We were now in Lobemba, but these
+  villagers had nothing but hopes of plenty at Chitapangwa's. This
+  village had <a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>half a mile of
+  ooze and sludgy marsh in front of it, and a stockade as usual. We
+  observed that the people had great fear of animals at night, and
+  shut the gates carefully, of even temporary villages. When at
+  Molemba (Chitapangwa's village) afterwards, two men were killed
+  by a lion, and great fear of crocodiles was expressed by our
+  canoe-man at the Chambez&eacute;, when one washed in the margin
+  of that river. There was evidence of abundance of game,
+  elephants, and buffaloes, but we saw none.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;When near our next stage end
+  we were shown where lightning had struck; it ran down a gum-copal
+  tree without damaging it, then ten yards horizontally, and
+  dividing there into two streams it went up an anthill; the
+  withered grass showed its course very plainly, and next day
+  (31st), on the banks of the Mabula, we saw a dry tree which had
+  been struck; large splinters had been riven off and thrown a
+  distance of sixty yards in one direction and thirty yards in
+  another: only a stump was left, and patches of withered grass
+  where it had gone horizontally.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Northwards through almost
+  trackless dripping forests and across oozing bogs.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st January, 1867.</i>&mdash;Through forest, but gardens
+  of larger size than in Lobisa now appear. A man offered a thick
+  bar of copper for sale, a foot by three inches. The hard-leafed
+  acacia and mohempi abound. The valleys, with the oozes, have a
+  species of grass, having pink seed-stalks and yellow seeds: this
+  is very pretty. At midday we came to the Lopiri, the rivulet
+  which waters Chitapanga's stockade, and soon after found that his
+  village has a triple stockade, the inner being defended also by a
+  deep broad ditch and hedge of a solanaceous thorny shrub. It is
+  about 200 yards broad and 500 long. The huts not planted very
+  closely.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="fp185" id="fp185"></a> <img src="images/fp185.jpg"
+    width="500" height="281" alt=
+    "Chitapangwa receiving Dr. Livingstone." title=
+    "Chitapangwa receiving Dr. Livingstone." /><br />
+    <b>Chitapangwa
+    receiving Dr. Livingstone.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The rivulets were all making for the Chambez&eacute;. They
+  contain no fish, except very small ones&mdash;probably fry. On
+  <a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>the other, or western side
+  of the ridge, near which "Malemba" is situated, fish abound worth
+  catching.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p185" id="p185"></a> <img src="images/p185.jpg" width=
+    "383" height="332" alt="Chitapangwa" title="Chitapangwa" /><br />
+    <b>Chitapangwa</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Chitapangwa, or Motoka, as he is also called, sent to inquire
+  if we wanted an audience. "We must take something in our hands
+  the first time we came before so great a man." Being tired from
+  marching, I replied, "Not till the evening," and sent notice at 5
+  P.M. of my coming. We passed through the inner stockade, and then
+  on to an enormous hut, where sat Chitapangwa, with three drummers
+  and ten or more men, with two rattles in their hands. The
+  drummers beat furiously, and the rattlers kept time to the drums,
+  two of them advancing and receding in a stooping posture, with
+  rattles near the ground, as if doing the chief obeisance, but
+  still keeping time with the others. I declined <a name="Page_186"
+  id="Page_186"></a>to sit on the ground, and an enormous tusk was
+  brought for me. The chief saluted courteously. He has a fat jolly
+  face, and legs loaded with brass and copper leglets. I mentioned
+  our losses by the desertion of the Waiyau, but his power is
+  merely nominal, and he could do nothing. After talking awhile he
+  came along with us to a group of cows, and pointed out one. "That
+  is yours," said he. The tusk on which I sat was sent after me too
+  as being mine, because I had sat upon it. He put on my cloth as
+  token of acceptance, and sent two large baskets of sorghum to the
+  hut afterwards, and then sent for one of the boys to pump him
+  after dark.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p186" id="p186"></a> <img src="images/p186.jpg" width=
+    "383" height="343" alt="Chitapangwa's Wives." title=
+    "Chitapangwa's Wives." /><br />
+    <b>Chitapangwa's Wives.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>1st February, 1867.</i>&mdash;We found a small party of
+  black Arab slave-traders here from Bagamoio on the coast, and as
+  <a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>the chief had behaved
+  handsomely as I thought, I went this morning and gave him one of
+  our best cloths; but when we were about to kill the cow, a man
+  interfered and pointed out a smaller one. I asked if this was by
+  the orders of the chief. The chief said that the man had lied,
+  but I declined to take any cow at all if he did not give it
+  willingly.</p>
+
+  <p>The slavers, the headman of whom was Magaru Mafupi, came and
+  said that they were going off on the 2nd; (<i>2nd February,
+  1867</i>) but by payment I got them to remain a day, and was all
+  day employed in writing despatches.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd February, 1867.</i>&mdash;Magaru Mafupi left this
+  morning with a packet of letters, for which he is to get Rs. 10
+  at Zanzibar.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id=
+  "FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class=
+  "fnanchor">[48]</a> They came by a much shorter route than we
+  followed, in fact, nearly due west or south-west; but not a soul
+  would tell us of this way of coming into the country when we were
+  at Zanzibar. Bagamoio is only six hours north of Kurdary Harbour.
+  It is possible that the people of Zanzibar did not know of it
+  themselves, as this is the first time they have come so far. The
+  route is full of villages and people who have plenty of goats,
+  and very cheap. They number fifteen stations, or sultans, as they
+  call the chiefs, and will be at Bagamoio in two months:&mdash;1.
+  Chasa; 2. Lomb&eacute;; 3. Ucher&eacute;; 4. Nyamiro; 5. Zonda;
+  6. Zambi; 7. Lioti; 8. M&eacute;rer&eacute;; 9. Kirangabana; 10.
+  Nkongozi; 11. Sombogo; 12. Sur&eacute;; 13. Lomolasenga; 14.
+  Kapass; 15, Chanz&eacute;. They are then in the country adjacent
+  to Bagamoio. Some of these places are two or three days apart
+  from each other.</p>
+
+  <p>They came to three large rivers: 1. Wembo; 2. Luaha; 3. Luvo;
+  but I had not time to make further inquiries. They had one of
+  Speke's companions to Tanganyika with them, named Janj&eacute;,
+  or Janja, who could imitate a trumpet by blowing into the palm of
+  his hand. I ordered another <a name="Page_188" id=
+  "Page_188"></a>supply of cloth and beads, and I sent for a small
+  quantity of coffee, sugar, candles, French preserved meats, a
+  cheese in tin, six bottles of port-wine, quinine, calomel, and
+  resin of jalap, to be sent to Ujiji.</p>
+
+  <p>I proposed to go a little way east with this route to buy
+  goats, but Chitapangwa got very angry, saying, I came only to
+  show my things, and would buy nothing: he then altered his tone,
+  and requested me to take the cow first presented and eat it, and
+  as we were all much in need I took it. We were to give only what
+  we liked in addition; but this was a snare, and when I gave two
+  more cloths he sent them back, and demanded a blanket. The boys
+  alone have blankets; so I told him these were not slaves, and I
+  could not take from them what I had once given. Though it is
+  disagreeable to be thus victimized, it is the first time we have
+  tasted fat for six weeks and more.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;Chitapangwa came with his
+  wife to see the instruments which I explained to them as well as
+  I could, and the books, as well as the Book of Books, and to my
+  statements he made intelligent remarks. The boys are sorely
+  afraid of him. When Abraham does not like to say what I state, he
+  says to me "I don't know the proper word;" but when I speak
+  without him, he soon finds them. He and Simon thought that
+  talking in a cringing manner was the way to win him over, so I
+  let them try it with a man he sent to communicate with us, and
+  the result was this fellow wanted to open their bundles, pulled
+  them about, and kept them awake most of the night. Abraham came
+  at night: "Sir, what shall I do? they won't let me sleep." "You
+  have had your own way," I replied, "and must abide by it." He
+  brought them over to me in the morning, but I soon dismissed both
+  him and them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;I sent to the chief either to
+  come to me or say Avhen I should come to him and talk; the answer
+  I got was that he would come when shaved, but he afterwards
+  <a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>sent a man to hear what I
+  had to advance&mdash;this I declined, and when the rain ceased I
+  went myself.</p>
+
+  <p>On coming into his hut I stated that I had given him four
+  times the value of his cow, but if he thought otherwise, let us
+  take the four cloths to his brother Moamba, and if he said that I
+  had not given enough, I would buy a cow and send it back. This he
+  did not relish at all. "Oh, great Englishman! why should we refer
+  a dispute to an inferior. I am the great chief of all this
+  country. Ingleze mokolu, you are sorry that you have to give so
+  much for the ox you have eaten. You would not take a smaller, and
+  therefore I gratified your heart by giving the larger; and why
+  should not you gratify my heart by giving cloth sufficient to
+  cover me, and please me?"</p>
+
+  <p>I said that my cloths would cover him, and his biggest wife
+  too all over, he laughed at this, but still held out; and as we
+  have meat, and he sent maize and calabashes, I went away. He
+  turns round now, and puts the blame of greediness on me. I cannot
+  enter into his ideas, or see his point of view; cannot, in fact,
+  enter into his ignorance, his prejudices, or delusions, so it is
+  impossible to pronounce a true judgment. One who has no humour
+  cannot understand one who has: this is an equivalent case.</p>
+
+  <p>Rain and clouds so constantly, I could not get our latitude
+  till last night, 10&deg; 14' 6" S. On 8th got lunars. Long.
+  31&deg; 46' 45" E. Altitude above sea, 4700 feet, by
+  boiling-point and barometer.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;The chief demands one of my
+  boxes and a blanket; I explain that one day's rain would spoil
+  the contents, and the boys who have blankets, not being slaves, I
+  cannot take from them what I have given. I am told that he
+  declares that he will take us back to the Loangwa; make war and
+  involve us in it, deprive us of food, &amp;c.: this succeeds in
+  terrifying the boys. He thinks that we have some self-interest to
+  secure in passing <a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>through
+  the country, and therefore he has a right to a share in the gain.
+  When told it was for a public benefit, he pulled down the
+  underlid of the right eye.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id=
+  "FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class=
+  "fnanchor">[49]</a> He believes we shall profit by our journey,
+  though he knows not in what way.</p>
+
+  <p>It is possibly only a coincidence, but no sooner do we meet
+  with one who accompanied Speke and Burton to Tanganyika, than the
+  system of mulcting commences. I have no doubt but that
+  Janj&eacute; told this man how his former employers paid down
+  whatever was demanded of them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;I had service in the open
+  air, many looking on, and spoke afterwards to the chief, but he
+  believes nothing save what Speke and Burton's man has told him.
+  He gave us a present of corn and ground-nuts, and says he did not
+  order the people not to sell grain to us. We must stop and eat
+  green maize. He came after evening service, and I explained a
+  little to him, and showed him woodcuts in the 'Bible Dictionary,'
+  which he readily understood.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;The chief sent us a basket
+  of hippopotamus flesh from the Chambez&eacute;, and a large one
+  of green maize. He says the three cloths I offered are still
+  mine: all he wants is a box and blanket; if not a blanket, a box
+  must be given, a tin one. He keeps out of my way, by going to the
+  gardens every morning. He is good-natured, and our intercourse is
+  a laughing one; but the boys betray their terrors in their tone
+  of voice, and render my words powerless.</p>
+
+  <p>The black and white, and the brownish-grey water wagtails are
+  remarkably tame. They come about the huts and even into them, and
+  no one ever disturbs them. They build their nests about the huts.
+  In the Bechuana country, a fine is imposed on any man whose boys
+  kill one, but <a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>why, no one
+  can tell me. The boys with me aver that they are not killed,
+  because the meat is not eaten! or because they are so tame!!</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;I gave one of the boxes at
+  last, Chitapangwa offering a heavy Arab wooden one to preserve
+  our things, which I declined to take, as I parted with our own
+  partly to lighten a load. Abraham unwittingly told me that he had
+  not given me the chiefs statement in full when he pressed me to
+  take his cow. It was, "Take and eat the one you like, and give me
+  a blanket." Abraham said "He has no blanket." Then he said to me,
+  "Take it and eat it, and give him any pretty thing you like." I
+  was thus led to mistake the chief, and he, believing that he had
+  said explicitly he wanted a blanket for it, naturally held out.
+  It is difficult to get these lads to say what one wants uttered:
+  either with enormous self-conceit, they give different, and, as
+  they think, better statements, suppress them altogether, or
+  return false answers: this is the great and crowning difficulty
+  of my intercourse.</p>
+
+  <p>I got ready to go, but the chief was very angry, and came with
+  all his force, exclaiming that I wanted to leave against his will
+  and power, though he wished to adjust matters, and send me away
+  nicely. He does not believe that we have no blankets. It is hard
+  to be kept waiting here, but all may be for the best: it has
+  always turned out so, and I trust in Him on whom I can cast all
+  my cares. The Lord look on this and help me. Though I have these
+  nine boys, I feel quite alone.</p>
+
+  <p>I gave the chief some seeds, peas, and beans, for which he
+  seemed thankful, and returned little presents of food and beer
+  frequently. The beer of ma&euml;re is stuffed full of the growing
+  grain as it begins to sprout, it is as thick as porridge, very
+  strong and bitter, and goes to the head, requiring a strong
+  digestion to overcome it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>February, 1867.</i>&mdash;I showed the chief one of the
+  boys' <a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>blankets, which he is
+  willing to part with for two of our cloths, each of which is
+  larger than it, but he declines to receive it, because we have
+  new ones. I invited him, since he disbelieved my assertions, to
+  look in our bales, and if he saw none, to pay us a fine for the
+  insult: he consented in a laughing way to give us an ox. All our
+  personal intercourse has been of the good-natured sort. It is the
+  communications to the boys, by three men who are our protectors,
+  or rather spies, that is disagreeable; I won't let them bring
+  those fellows near me.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;He came early in the
+  morning, and I showed that I had no blanket, and he took the old
+  one, and said that the affair was ended. A long misunderstanding
+  would have been avoided, had Abraham told me fully what the chief
+  said at first.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;The chief offered me a cow
+  for &agrave; piece of red serge, and after a deal of talk and
+  Chitapangwa swearing that no demand would be made after the
+  bargain was concluded, I gave the serge, a cloth, and a few beads
+  for a good fat cow. The serge was two fathoms, a portion of that
+  which Miss Coutts gave me when leaving England in 1858.</p>
+
+  <p>The chief is not so bad, as the boys are so cowardly. They
+  assume a chirping, piping tone of voice in speaking to him, and
+  do not say what at last has to be said, because in their cringing
+  souls they believe they know what should be said better than I
+  do. It does not strike them in the least that I have grown grey
+  amongst these people; and it is immense conceit in mere boys to
+  equal themselves to me. The difficulty is greater, because when I
+  do ask their opinions I only receive the reply, "It is as you
+  please, sir." Very likely some men of character may arise and
+  lead them; but such as I have would do little to civilise.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;Too ill with rheumatic-fever
+  to have service; this is the first attack of it I ever
+  had&mdash;and no <a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>medicine!
+  but I trust in the Lord, who healeth His people.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;This cow we divided at once.
+  The last one we cooked, and divided a full, hearty meal to all
+  every evening.</p>
+
+  <p>The boom&mdash;booming of water dashing against or over the
+  rocks is heard at a good distance from most of the burns in this
+  upland region; hence it is never quite still.</p>
+
+  <p>The rocks here are argillaceous schist, red and white.
+  <i>(Keel, Scottic&eacute;.)</i></p>
+
+  <p><i>19th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;Chitapangwa begged me to
+  stay another day, that one of the boys might mend his blanket; it
+  has been worn every night since April, and I, being weak and
+  giddy, consented. A glorious day of bright sunlight after a
+  night's rain. We scarcely ever have a twenty-four hours without
+  rain, and never half that period without thunder.</p>
+
+  <p>The camwood (?) is here called molombwa, and grows very
+  abundantly. The people take the bark, boil, and grind it fine: it
+  is then a splendid blood-red, and they use it extensively as an
+  ornament, sprinkling it on the bark-cloth, or smearing it on the
+  head. It is in large balls, and is now called mkola. The tree has
+  pinnated, alternate lanceolate, leaves, and attains a height of
+  40 or 50 feet, with a diameter of 15 or 18 inches finely and
+  closely veined above, more widely beneath.</p>
+
+  <p>I am informed by Abraham that the Nyumbo (Numbo or Mumbo) is
+  easily propagated by cuttings, or by cuttings of the roots. A
+  bunch of the stalks is preserved in the soil for planting next
+  year, and small pieces are cut off, and take root easily; it has
+  a pea-shaped flower, but we never saw the seed. It is very much
+  better here than I have seen it elsewhere; and James says that in
+  his country it is quite <a name="Page_194" id=
+  "Page_194"></a>white and better still; what I have seen is of a
+  greenish tinge after it is boiled.</p>
+
+  <p>[Amongst the articles brought to the coast the men took care
+  not to lose a number of seeds which they found in Dr.
+  Livingstone's boxes after his death. These have been placed in
+  the hands of the authorities at Kew, and we may hope that in some
+  instances they have maintained vitality.</p>
+
+  <p>It is a great pity that there is such a lack of enterprise in
+  the various European settlements on the East Coast of Africa.
+  Were it otherwise a large trade in valuable woods and other
+  products would assuredly spring up. Ebony and lignum vitae
+  abound; Dr. Livingstone used hardly any other fuel when he
+  navigated the <i>Pioneer</i>, and no wood was found to make such
+  "good steam." India-rubber may be had for the collecting, and we
+  see that even the natives know some of the dye-woods, besides
+  which the palm-oil tree is found, indigo is a weed everywhere,
+  and coffee is indigenous.]</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> In
+      coming to cross roads it is the custom of the leader to
+      "mark" all side paths and wrong turnings by making a scratch
+      across them with his spear, or by breaking a branch and
+      laying it across: in this way those who follow are able to
+      avoid straying off the proper road.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a>
+      Heleotragus Vardonii.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> The
+      tamarind does the same thing in the heat of the day.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> A
+      species of kingfisher, which stands flapping its wings and
+      attempting to sing in a ridiculous manner. It never was
+      better described than by one observer who, after watching it
+      through its performance, said it was "a toy-shoppy
+      bird."&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Not the
+      great chief near Lake Moero of the same name.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> This
+      extraordinary bird flies from tree to tree in front of the
+      hunter, chirrupping loudly, and will not be content till he
+      arrives at the spot where the bees'-nest is; it then waits
+      quietly till the honey is taken, and feeds on the broken
+      morsels of comb which fall to its share.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a>
+      Eleusine Coracana.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> It may
+      not be altogether without interest to state that Livingstone
+      could fall asleep when he wished at the very shortest notice.
+      A mat, and a shady tree under which to spread it, would at
+      any time afford him a refreshing sleep, and this faculty no
+      doubt contributed much to his great powers of
+      endurance.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> When
+      the elephant becomes confused by the yelping pack of dogs
+      with which he is surrounded, the hunter stealthily approaches
+      behind, and with one blow of a sharp axe hamstrings the huge
+      beast.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a>
+      Raphia.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> Top of
+      mountain (barometer) 6338 feat.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> The
+      experience of all African sportsmen tends towards the same
+      conclusion. Vultures probably have their beats high overhead
+      in the sky, too far to be seen by the eye. From this altitude
+      they can watch a vast tract of country, and whenever the
+      disturbed movements of game are observed they draw together,
+      and for the first time are seen wheeling, about at a great
+      height over the spot. So soon as an animal is killed, every
+      tree is filled with them, but the hunter has only to cover
+      the meat with boughs or reeds and the vultures are entirely
+      at a loss&mdash;hidden, from view it is hidden altogether:
+      the idea that they are attracted by their keen sense of smell
+      is altogether erroneous,&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> These
+      letters reached England safely.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> It
+      seems almost too ridiculous to believe that we have here the
+      exact equivalent of the schoolboy's demonstrative "Do you see
+      any green in my eye?" nevertheless it looks wonderfully like
+      it!&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><a name=
+  "Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill
+    with fever. Threatening attitude of Chibu&eacute;'s people.
+    Continued illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba.
+    Extreme beauty of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility.
+    Leaves the Lake. Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between
+    Arabs and Nsama. Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's
+    letter to principal Arab Harnees. The war in Itawa. Geography
+    of the Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the
+    Koran. Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo to the eastward, and
+    their chief, Mer&eacute;r&eacute;. Harnees sets out against
+    Nsama. Tedious sojourn. Departure for Ponda. Native
+    cupping.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>20th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;I told the chief before
+  starting that my heart was sore, because he was not sending me
+  away so cordially as I liked. He at once ordered men to start
+  with us, and gave me a brass knife with ivory sheath, which he
+  had long worn, as a memorial. He explained that we ought to go
+  north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately be obliged to
+  turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we reached the
+  Lake Tanganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground and
+  rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true,
+  and came along with us to see that all was right; and so we
+  parted.</p>
+
+  <p>We soon ascended the plateau, which encloses with its edge the
+  village and stream of Molemba. Wild pigs are abundant, and there
+  are marks of former cultivation. A short march brought us to an
+  ooze, surrounded by hedges, game-traps, and pitfalls, where, as
+  we are stiff and weak, we spend the night. Rocks abound of the
+  same dolomite <a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>kind as on the
+  ridge further south, between the Loangwa and Chambez&eacute;,
+  covered, like them, with lichens, orchids, euphorbias, and upland
+  vegetation, hard-leaved acacias, rhododendrons, masukos. The
+  gum-copal tree, when perforated by a grub, exudes from branches
+  no thicker than one's arm, masses of soft, gluey-looking gum,
+  brownish yellow, and light grey, as much as would fill a
+  soup-plate. It seems to yield this gum only in the rainy season,
+  and now all the trees are full of sap and gum.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st February, 1867.</i>&mdash;A night with loud and near
+  thunder, and much heavy rain, which came through the boys' sheds.
+  Roads all plashy or running with water, oozes full, and rivulets
+  overflowing; rocks of dolomite jutting out here and there. I
+  noticed growing here a spikenard-looking shrub, six feet high,
+  and a foot in diameter. The path led us west against my will. I
+  found one going north; but the boys pretended that they did not
+  see my mark, and went west, evidently afraid of incurring
+  Moamba's displeasure by passing him. I found them in an old hut,
+  and made the best of it by saying nothing. They said that they
+  had wandered; that was, they had never left the west-going
+  path.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd February, 1867.</i>&mdash;We came to a perennial
+  rivulet running north, the Merungu. Here we met Moamba's people,
+  but declined going to his village, as huts are disagreeable; they
+  often have vermin, and one is exposed to the gaze of a crowd
+  through a very small doorway. The people in their curiosity often
+  make the place dark, and the impudent ones offer characteristic
+  remarks, then raise a laugh, and run away.</p>
+
+  <p>We encamped on the Meningu's right bank in forest, sending
+  word to Moamba that we meant to do so. He sent a deputation,
+  first of all his young men, to bring us; then old men, and lastly
+  he came himself with about sixty followers. I explained that I
+  had become sick by living <a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>in
+  a little hut at Molemba; that I was better in the open air; that
+  huts contained vermin; and that I did not mean to remain any
+  while here, but go on our way. He pressed us to come to his
+  village, and gave us a goat and kid, with a huge calabashful of
+  beer. I promised to go over and visit him next day; and went
+  accordingly.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd February, 1867.</i>&mdash;Moamba's village was a mile
+  off, and on the left bank of the Mereng&eacute;, a larger stream
+  than the Merungu flowing north and having its banks and oozes
+  covered with fine, tall, straight, evergreen trees. The village
+  is surrounded with a stockade, and a dry ditch some fifteen or
+  twenty feet wide, and as many deep. I had a long talk with
+  Moamba, a big, stout, public-house-looking person, with a slight
+  outward cast in his left eye, but intelligent and hearty. I
+  presented him with a cloth; and he gave me as much ma&euml;re
+  meal as a man could carry, with a large basket of ground-nuts. He
+  wished us to come to the Mereng&eacute;, if not into his village,
+  that he might see and talk with me: I also showed him some
+  pictures in Smith's 'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily
+  understood, and I spoke to him about the Bible. He asked me "to
+  come next day and tell him about prayer to God," this was a
+  natural desire after being told that we prayed.</p>
+
+  <p>He was very anxious to know why we were going to Tanganyika;
+  for what we came; what we should buy there; and if I had any
+  relations there. He then showed me some fine large tusks, eight
+  feet six in length. "What do you wish to buy, if not slaves or
+  ivory?" I replied, that the only thing I had seen worth buying
+  was a fine fat chief like him, as a specimen, and a woman feeding
+  him, as he had, with beer. He was tickled at this; and said that
+  when we reached our country, I must put fine clothes on him. This
+  led us to speak of our climate, and the production of wool.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;I went over after service,
+  but late, as <a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a>the rain
+  threatened to be heavy. A case was in process of hearing, and one
+  old man spoke an hour on end, the chief listening all the while
+  with the gravity of a judge. He then delivered his decision in
+  about five minutes, the successful litigant going off
+  lullilooing. Each person, before addressing him, turns his back
+  to him and lies down on the ground, clapping the hands: this is
+  the common mode of salutation. Another form here in Lobemba is to
+  rattle the arrows or an arrow on the bow, which all carry. We had
+  a little talk with the chief; but it was late before the cause
+  was heard through. He asked us to come and spend one night near
+  him on the Merenga, and then go on, so we came over in the
+  morning to the vicinity of his village. A great deal of
+  copper-wire is here made, the wire-drawers using for one part of
+  the process a seven-inch cable. They make very fine wire, and it
+  is used chiefly as leglets and anklets; the chief's wives being
+  laden with them, and obliged to walk in a stately style from the
+  weight: the copper comes from Katanga.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th February, 1867.</i>&mdash;The chief wishes to buy a
+  cloth with two goats, but his men do not bring them up quickly.
+  Simon, one of the boys, is ill of fever, and this induces me to
+  remain, though moving from one place to another is the only
+  remedy we have in our power.</p>
+
+  <p>With the chief's men we did not get on well, but with himself
+  all was easy. His men demanded prepayment for canoes to cross the
+  river Lo&ouml;mb&eacute;; but in the way that he put it, the
+  request was not unreasonable, as he gave a man to smooth our way,
+  and get canoes, or whatever else was needed, all the way to
+  Chibu&eacute;'s. I gave a cloth when he put it thus, and he
+  presented a goat, a spear ornamented with copper-wire, abundance
+  of meal, and beer, and numbo; so we parted good friends, as his
+  presents were worth the cloth.</p>
+
+  <p>Holding a north-westerly course we met with the Chikosho
+  <a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>flowing west, and thence
+  came to the Likomb&eacute; by a high ridge called Losauswa, which
+  runs a long way westward. It is probably a watershed between
+  streams going to the Chambez&eacute; and those that go to the
+  northern rivers.</p>
+
+  <p>We have the Locopa, Lo&ouml;mb&eacute;,
+  Nik&eacute;l&eacute;ng&eacute;, then Lofubu or Lovu; the last
+  goes north into Liembe, but accounts are very confused. The
+  Chambez&eacute; rises in the Mambiv&eacute; country, which is
+  north-east of Moamba, but near to it.</p>
+
+  <p>The forest through which we passed was dense, but scrubby;
+  trees unhealthy and no drainage except through oozes. On the keel
+  which forms a clay soil the rain runs off, and the trees attain a
+  large size. The roads are not soured by the slow process of the
+  ooze drainage. At present all the slopes having loamy or sandy
+  soil are oozes, and full to overflowing; a long time is required
+  for them to discharge their contents. The country generally may
+  be called one covered with forest.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th March, 1867.</i>&mdash;We came after a short march to a
+  village on the Molilanga, flowing east into the
+  Lo&ouml;mb&eacute;, here we meet with bananas for the first time,
+  called, as in Lunda, nkond&eacute;. A few trophies from Mazitu
+  are hung up: Chitapangwa had twenty-four skulls ornamenting his
+  stockade. The Babemba are decidedly more warlike than any of the
+  tribes south of them: their villages are stockaded, and have deep
+  dry ditches round them, so it is likely that Mochimb&eacute; will
+  be effectually checked, and forced to turn his energies to
+  something else than to marauding.</p>
+
+  <p>Our man from Moamba here refused to go further, and we were
+  put on the wrong track by the headman wading through three
+  marshes, each at least half a mile broad. The people of the first
+  village we came to shut their gates on us, then came running
+  after us; but we declined to enter their village: it is a way of
+  showing their independence. We made our sheds on a height in
+  spite of their protests. They said that the gates were shut by
+  the <a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>boys; but when I pointed
+  out the boy who had done it, he said that he had been ordered to
+  do it by the chief. If we had gone in now we should have been
+  looked on as having come under considerable obligations.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th March, 1867.</i>&mdash;We went on to a village on the
+  Lo&ouml;mb&eacute;, where the people showed an opposite
+  disposition, for not a soul was in it&mdash;all were out at their
+  farms. When the good wife of the place came she gave us all huts,
+  which saved us from a pelting shower. The boys herding the goats
+  did not stir as we passed down the sides of the lovely valley.
+  The Lo&ouml;mb&eacute; looks a sluggish stream from a distance.
+  The herdsman said we were welcome, and he would show the crossing
+  next day, he also cooked some food for us.</p>
+
+  <p>Guided by our host, we went along the Lo&ouml;mb&eacute;
+  westwards till we reached the bridge (rather a rickety affair),
+  which, when the water is low may be used as a weir. The
+  Lo&ouml;mb&eacute; main stream is 66 feet wide, 6 feet deep, with
+  at least 200 feet of flood beyond it. The water was knee deep on
+  the bridge, but clear; the flooded part beyond was waist deep and
+  the water flowing fast.</p>
+
+  <p>All the people are now transplanting tobacco from the spaces
+  under the eaves of the huts into the fields. It seems unable to
+  bear the greater heat of summer: they plant also a kind of
+  liranda, proper for the cold weather. We thought that we were
+  conferring a boon in giving peas, but we found them generally
+  propagated all over the country already, and in the cold time
+  too. We went along the Diola River to an old hut and made a fire;
+  thence across country to another river, called Loendaw&eacute;, 6
+  feet wide, and 9 feet deep.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th March, 1867.</i>&mdash;I have been ill of fever ever
+  since we left Moamba's; every step I take jars in the chest, and
+  I am very weak; I can scarcely keep up the march, though formerly
+  I was always first, and had to hold in my pace not to leave the
+  people altogether. I have a constant <a name="Page_201" id=
+  "Page_201"></a>singing in the ears, and can scarcely hear the
+  loud tick of the chronometers. The appetite is good, but we have
+  no proper food, chiefly ma&euml;re meal or beans, or mapemba or
+  ground-nuts, rarely a fowl.</p>
+
+  <p>The country is full of hopo-hedges, but the animals are
+  harassed, and we never see them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th March, 1867.</i>.&mdash;Detained by a set-in rain.
+  Marks on masses of dolomite elicited the information that a party
+  of Londa smiths came once to this smelting ground and erected
+  their works here. We saw an old iron furnace, and masses of
+  haematite, which seems to have been the ore universally used.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th March, 1867.</i>&mdash;Rain held us back for some
+  time, but we soon reached Chibu&eacute;, a stockaded village.
+  Like them all, it is situated by a stream, with a dense clump of
+  trees on the waterside of some species of mangrove. They attain
+  large size, have soft wood, and succulent leaves; the roots
+  intertwine in the mud, and one has to watch that he does not step
+  where no roots exist, otherwise he sinks up to the thigh. In a
+  village the people feel that we are on their property, and crowd
+  upon us inconveniently; but outside, where we usually erect our
+  sheds, no such feeling exists, we are each on a level, and they
+  don't take liberties.</p>
+
+  <p>The Balungu are marked by three or four little knobs on the
+  temples, and the lobes of the ears are distended by a piece of
+  wood, which is ornamented with beads; bands of beads go across
+  the forehead and hold up the hair.</p>
+
+  <p>Chibu&eacute;'s village is at the source of the
+  Lokw&eacute;na, which goes N. and N.E.; a long range of low hills
+  is on our N.E., which are the Mambw&eacute;, or part of them. The
+  Chambez&eacute; rises in them, but further south. Here the
+  Lokw&eacute;na, round whose source we came on starting this
+  morning to avoid wet feet, and all others north and west of this,
+  go to the Lofu or Lobu, and into Liemba Lake. Those from the
+  hills on our right go east into the Loanzu and so into the
+  Lake.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a><i>15th March,
+  1867.</i>&mdash;We now are making for Kasonso, the chief of the
+  Lake, and a very large country all around it, passing the
+  Lochenj&eacute;, five yards wide, and knee deep, then to the
+  Cha&ntilde;umba. All flow very rapidly just now and are flooded
+  with clean water. Everyone carries an axe, as if constantly
+  warring with the forest. My long-continued fever ill disposes me
+  to enjoy the beautiful landscape. We are evidently on the ridge,
+  but people have not a clear conception of where the rivers
+  run.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th March, 1867.</i>&mdash;A party of young men came out
+  of the village near which we had encamped to force us to pay
+  something for not going into their village. "The son of a great
+  chief ought to be acknowledged," &amp;c. They had their bows and
+  arrows with them, and all ready for action. I told them we had
+  remained near them because they said we could not reach Kasonso
+  that day. Their headman had given us nothing. After talking a
+  while, and threatening to do a deal to-morrow, they left, and
+  through an Almighty Providence nothing was attempted. We moved on
+  N.W. in forest, with long green tree-covered slopes on our right,
+  and came to a village of Kasonso in a very lovely valley. Great
+  green valleys were now scooped out, and many, as the Kakanza, run
+  into the Lovu.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th March, 1867.</i>&mdash;The same features of country
+  prevailed, indeed it was impossible to count the streams flowing
+  N.W. We found Kasonso situated at the confluence of two streams;
+  he shook hands a long while, and seems a frank sort of man. A
+  shower of rain set the driver ants on the move, and about two
+  hours after we had turned in we were overwhelmed by them. They
+  are called Kalandu or Nkalanda.</p>
+
+  <p>To describe this attack is utterly impossible. I wakened
+  covered with them: my hair was full of them. One by one they cut
+  into the flesh, and the more they are disturbed, the more vicious
+  are their bites; they become quite insolent. <a name="Page_203"
+  id="Page_203"></a>I went outside the hut, but there they swarmed
+  everywhere; they covered the legs, biting furiously; it is only
+  when they are tired that they leave off.</p>
+
+  <p>One good trait of the Balungu up here is, they retire when
+  they see food brought to anyone, neither Babisa nor Makoa had
+  this sense of delicacy: the Babemba are equally polite.</p>
+
+  <p>We have descended considerably into the broad valley of the
+  Lake, and it feels warmer than on the heights. Cloth here is more
+  valuable, inasmuch as bark-cloth is scarce. The skins of goats
+  and wild animals are used, and the kilt is very diminutive among
+  the women.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd March, 1867.</i>&mdash;Cross Lo&eacute;la, thirty feet
+  wide and one deep, and meet with tsetse fly, though we have seen
+  none since we left Chitapangwa's. Kasonso gave us a grand
+  reception, and we saw men present from Tanganyika; I saw cassava
+  here, but not in plenty.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th March, 1867.</i>&mdash;Set-in rain and Chuma fell ill.
+  There are cotton bushes of very large size here of the South
+  American kind. After sleeping in various villages and crossing
+  numerous streams, we came to Mombo's village, near the ridge
+  overlooking the Lake.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st March, and 1st April, 1867.</i>&mdash;I was too ill to
+  march through. I offered to go on the 1st, but Kasonso's son, who
+  was with us, objected. We went up a low ridge of hills at its
+  lowest part, and soon after passing the summit the blue water
+  loomed through the trees. I was detained, but soon heard the boys
+  firing their muskets on reaching the edge of the ridge, which
+  allowed of an undisturbed view. This is the south-eastern end of
+  Liemba, or, as it is sometimes called, Tanganyika.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> We had to descend at
+  least 2000 feet before we got to the level of the Lake. It seems
+  <a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>about eighteen or twenty
+  miles broad, and we could see about thirty miles up to the north.
+  Four considerable rivers flow into the space before us. The
+  nearly perpendicular ridge of about 2000 feet extends with breaks
+  all around, and there, embosomed in tree-covered rocks, reposes
+  the Lake peacefully in the huge cup-shaped cavity.</p>
+
+  <p>I never saw anything so still and peaceful as it lies all the
+  morning. About noon a gentle breeze springs up, and causes the
+  waves to assume a bluish tinge. Several rocky islands rise in the
+  eastern end, which are inhabited by fishermen, who capture
+  abundance of fine large fish, of which they enumerate about
+  twenty-four species. In the north it seems to narrow into a
+  gateway, but the people are miserably deficient in geographical
+  knowledge, and can tell us nothing about it. They suspect us, and
+  we cannot get information, or indeed much of anything else. I
+  feel deeply thankful at having got so far. I am excessively
+  weak&mdash;cannot walk without tottering, and have constant
+  singing in the head, but the Highest will lead me further.</p>
+
+  <p>Lat. of the spot we touched at first, 2nd April, 1867. Lat.
+  8&deg; 46' 54" S., long. 31&deg; 57'; but I only worked out (and
+  my head is out of order) one set of observations. Height above
+  level of the sea over 2800 feet, by boiling-point thermometers
+  and barometer. The people won't let me sound the Lake.</p>
+
+  <p>After being a fortnight at this Lake it still appears one of
+  surpassing loveliness. Its peacefulness is remarkable, though at
+  times it is said to be lashed up by storms. It lies in a deep
+  basin whose sides are nearly perpendicular, but covered well with
+  trees; the rocks which appear are bright red argillaceous schist;
+  the trees at present all green: down some of these rocks come
+  beautiful cascades, and buffaloes, elephants, and antelopes
+  wander and graze on the more level spots, while lions roar by
+  night. The level place below is not two miles from the
+  perpendicular. The village <a name="Page_205" id=
+  "Page_205"></a>(Pamb&eacute;t&eacute;), at which we first touched
+  the Lake, is surrounded by palm-oil trees&mdash;not the stunted
+  ones of Lake Nyassa, but the real West Coast palm-oil
+  tree,<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> requiring two men to
+  carry a bunch of the ripe fruit. In the morning and evening huge
+  crocodiles may be observed quietly making their way to their
+  feeding grounds; hippopotami snort by night and at early
+  morning.</p>
+
+  <p>After I had been a few days here I had a fit of insensibility,
+  which shows the power of fever without medicine. I found myself
+  floundering outside my hut and unable to get in; I tried to lift
+  myself from my back by laying hold of two posts at the entrance,
+  but when I got nearly upright I let them go, and fell back
+  heavily on my head on a box. The boys had seen the wretched state
+  I was in, and hung a blanket at the entrance of the hut, that no
+  stranger might see my helplessness; some hours elapsed before I
+  could recognize where I was.</p>
+
+  <p>As for these Balungu, as they are called, they have a fear of
+  us, they do not understand our objects, and they keep aloof. They
+  promise everything and do nothing; but for my excessive weakness
+  we should go on, but we wait for a recovery of strength.</p>
+
+  <p>As people they are greatly reduced in numbers by the Mazitu,
+  who carried off very large numbers of the women, boys, girls, and
+  children. They train or like to see the young men arrayed as
+  Mazitu, but it would be more profitable if they kept them to
+  agriculture. They are all excessively polite. The clapping of
+  hands on meeting is something excessive, and then the string of
+  salutations that accompany it would please the most fastidious
+  Frenchman. It implies real politeness, for in marching with them
+  they always remove branches out of the path, and indicate stones
+  or stumps in it carefully to a stranger, yet we cannot prevail
+  <a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>on them to lend carriers to
+  examine the Lake or to sell goats, of which, however, they have
+  very few, and all on one island.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="fp206" id="fp206"></a> <img src="images/fp206.jpg"
+    width="500" height="266" alt=
+    "The Village on Lake Liemba&mdash;Tanganyika." title=
+    "The Village on Lake Liemba&mdash;Tanganyika." /><br />
+    <b>The
+    Village on Lake Liemba&mdash;Tanganyika.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The Lake discharges its water north-westward or rather
+  nor-north-westwards. We observe weeds going in that direction,
+  and as the Lonzua, the Kow&eacute;, the Kapata, the Luaz&eacute;,
+  the Kalambw&eacute;, flow into it near the east end, and the Lovu
+  or Lofubu, or Lofu, from the south-west near the end it must find
+  an exit for so much water. All these rivers rise in or near the
+  Mambw&eacute; country, in lat. 10&deg; S., where, too, the
+  Chambez&eacute; rises. Liemba is said to remain of about the same
+  size as we go north-west, but this we shall see for
+  ourselves.</p>
+
+  <p>Elephants come all about us. One was breaking trees close by.
+  I fired into his ear without effect: I am too weak to hold the
+  gun steadily.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th April, 1867.</i>&mdash;We begin our return march from
+  Liemba. Slept at a village on the Lake, and went on next day to
+  Pamb&eacute;t&eacute;, where we first touched it. I notice that
+  here the people pound tobacco-leaves in a mortar after they have
+  undergone partial fermentation by lying in the sun, then they put
+  the mass in the sun to dry for use.</p>
+
+  <p>The reason why no palm-oil trees grow further east than
+  Pamb&eacute;t&eacute; is said to be the stony soil there, and
+  this seems a valid one, for it loves rich loamy meadows.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st May, 1867.</i>&mdash;We intended to go north-west to
+  see whether this Lake narrows or not, for all assert that it
+  maintains its breadth such as we see it beyond Pemba as far as
+  they know it; but when about to start the headman and his wife
+  came and protested so solemnly that by going N.W. we should walk
+  into the hands of a party of Mazitu there, that we deferred our
+  departure. It was not with a full persuasion of the truth of the
+  statement that I consented, but we afterwards saw good evidence
+  that it was true, and that we were saved from being plundered.
+  These <a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>marauders have changed
+  their tactics, for they demand so many people, and so many
+  cloths, and then leave. They made it known that their next scene
+  of mulcting would be Mombo's village, and there they took twelve
+  people&mdash;four slaves, and many cloths, then went south to the
+  hills they inhabit. A strict watch was kept on their movements by
+  our headman and his men. They trust to fleeing into a thicket on
+  the west of the village should the Mazitu come.</p>
+
+  <p>I have been informed on good authority that Kasonso was on his
+  way to us when news arrived that his young son had died. He had
+  sent on beer and provisions for us, but the Mazitu intervening
+  they were consumed.</p>
+
+  <p>The Mazitu having left we departed and slept half-way up the
+  ridge. I had another fit of insensibility last night: the muscles
+  of the back lose all power,<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id=
+  "FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class=
+  "fnanchor">[52]</a> and there is constant singing in the ears,
+  and inability to do the simplest sum. Cross the Aeez&eacute;
+  (which makes the waterfall) fifteen yards wide and knee deep. The
+  streams like this are almost innumerable.</p>
+
+  <p>Mombo's village. It is distressingly difficult to elicit
+  accurate information about the Lake and rivers, because the
+  people do not think accurately. Mombo declared that two Arabs
+  came when we were below, and inquired for us, but he denied our
+  presence, thinking thereby to save us trouble and harm.</p>
+
+  <p>The cotton cultivated is of the Pernambuco species, and the
+  bushes are seven or eight feet high. Much cloth was made in these
+  parts before the Mazitu raids began, it was striped black and
+  white, and many shawls are seen in the country yet. It is curious
+  that this species of cotton should be found only in the middle of
+  this country.</p>
+
+  <p>In going westwards on the upland the country is level <a name=
+  "Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>and covered with scraggy forest as
+  usual, long lines of low hills or rather ridges of denudation
+  run. N. and S. on our east. This is called Moami country, full of
+  elephants, but few are killed. They do much damage, eating the
+  sorghum in the gardens unmolested.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th May, 1867.</i>&mdash;A short march to-day brought us
+  to a village on the same Moami, and to avoid a Sunday in the
+  forest we remained. The elephants had come into the village and
+  gone all about it, and to prevent their opening the corn safes
+  the people had bedaubed them with elephant's droppings. When a
+  cow would not give milk, save to its calf, a like device was used
+  at Kolobeng; the cow's droppings were smeared on the teats, and
+  the calf was too much disgusted to suck: the cow then ran till
+  she was distressed by the milk fever and was willing to be
+  relieved by the herdsman.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th and 13th May, 1867.</i>&mdash;News that the Arabs had
+  been fighting with Nsama came, but this made us rather anxious to
+  get northward along Liemba, and we made for Mokambola's village
+  near the edge of the precipice which overhangs the Lake. Many
+  Shuar&eacute; Raphia palms grow in the river which flows past
+  it.</p>
+
+  <p>As we began our descent we saw the Lofu coming from the west
+  and entering Liemba. A projection of Liemba comes to meet it, and
+  then it is said to go away to the north or north-west as far as
+  my informants knew. Some pointed due north, others north-west, so
+  probably its true course amounts to N.N.W. We came to a village
+  about 2' W. of the confluence, whose headman was affable and
+  generous. The village has a meadow some four miles wide on the
+  land side, in which buffaloes disport themselves, but they are
+  very wild, and hide in the gigantic grasses. Sorghum,
+  ground-nuts, and voandzeia grow luxuriantly. The Lofu is a
+  quarter of a mile wide, but higher up three hundred yards. The
+  valley was always clouded over at <a name="Page_209" id=
+  "Page_209"></a>night so I could not get an observation except
+  early in the morning when the cold had dissipated the clouds.</p>
+
+  <p>We remained here because two were lame, and all tired by the
+  descent of upwards of 2000 feet, and the headman sent for fish
+  for us. He dissuaded us strongly from attempting to go down the
+  Liemba, as the son of Nsania (Kapoma) was killing all who came
+  that way in revenge for what the Arabs had done to his father's
+  people, and he might take us for Arabs. A Suaheli Arab came in
+  the evening and partly confirmed the statements of the headman of
+  Karambo; I resolved therefore to go back to Chitimba's in the
+  south, where the chief portion of the Arabs are assembled, and
+  hear from them more certainly.</p>
+
+  <p>The last we heard of Liemba was that at a great way
+  north-west, it is dammed up by rocks, and where it surmounts
+  these there is a great waterfall. It does not, it is said,
+  diminish in size so far, but by bearings protracted it is two
+  miles wide.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th May, 1867.</i>&mdash;Return to Mokambola's village,
+  and leave for Chitimba's. Baraka stopped behind at the village,
+  and James ran away to him, leaving his bundle, containing three
+  chronometers, in the path: I sent back for them, and James came
+  up in the evening; he had no complaint, and no excuse to make.
+  The two think it will be easy to return to their own country by
+  begging, though they could not point it out to me when we were
+  much nearer to where it is supposed to be.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th May, 1867.</i>&mdash;Where we were brought to a
+  standstill was miserably cold (55&deg;), so we had prayers and
+  went on S. and S.W. to the village of Chis&aacute;ka.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th May, 1867.</i>&mdash;Chitimba's village was near in
+  the same direction; here we found a large party of Arabs, mostly
+  black Suahelis. They occupied an important portion of the
+  stockaded village, and when I came in, politely showed me to a
+  shed where they are in the habit of meeting. After <a name=
+  "Page_210" id="Page_210"></a>explaining whence I had come, I
+  showed them the Sultan's letter. Harnees presented a goat, two
+  fowls, and a quantity of flour. It was difficult to get to the
+  bottom of the Nsama affair, but according to their version that
+  chief sent an invitation to them, and when they arrived called
+  for his people, who came in crowds&mdash;as he said to view the
+  strangers. I suspect that the Arabs became afraid of the crowds
+  and began to fire; several were killed on both sides, and Nsama
+  fled, leaving his visitors in possession of the stockaded village
+  and all it contained. Others say that there was a dispute about
+  an elephant, and that Nsama's people were the aggressors. At any
+  rate it is now all confusion; those who remain at Nsama's village
+  help themselves to food in the surrounding villages and burn
+  them, while Chitimba has sent for the party who are quartered
+  here to come to him. An hour or two after we arrived a body of
+  men came from Kasonso, with the intention of proceeding into the
+  country of Nsama, and if possible catching Nsama, "he having
+  broken public law by attacking people who brought merchandise
+  into the country." This new expedition makes the Arabs resolve to
+  go and do what they can to injure their enemy. It will just be a
+  plundering foray&mdash;each catching what he can, whether animal
+  or human, and retiring when it is no longer safe to plunder!</p>
+
+  <p>This throws the barrier of a broad country between me and Lake
+  "Moero" in the west, but I trust in Providence a way will be
+  opened. I think now of going southwards and then westwards, thus
+  making a long d&eacute;tour round the disturbed district.</p>
+
+  <p>The name of the principal Arab is Hamees Wodim Tagh, the other
+  is Syde bin Alie bin Mansure: they are connected with one of the
+  most influential native mercantile houses in Zanzibar. Hamees has
+  been particularly kind to me in presenting food, beads, cloth,
+  and getting information. <a name="Page_211" id=
+  "Page_211"></a>Thami bin Snaelim is the Arab to whom my goods are
+  directed at Ujiji.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th May, 1867.</i>&mdash;At Chitimba's we are waiting to
+  see what events turn up to throw light on our western route. Some
+  of the Arabs and Kasonso's men went off to-day: they will bring
+  information perhaps as to Nsama's haunts, and then we shall move
+  south and thence west. Wrote to Sir Thomas Maclear, giving the
+  position of Liemba and to Dr. Seward, in case other letters
+  miscarry. The hot season is beginning now. This corresponds to
+  July further south.</p>
+
+  <p>Three goats were killed by a leopard close to the village in
+  open day.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th May, 1867.</i>&mdash;Information came that Nsama
+  begged pardon of the. Arabs, and would pay all that they had
+  lost. He did not know of his people stealing from them: we shall
+  hear in a day or two whether the matter is to be patched up or
+  not. While some believe his statements, others say, "Nsama's
+  words of peace are simply to gain time to make another stockade:"
+  in the mean time Kasonso's people will ravage all his country on
+  this eastern side.</p>
+
+  <p>Hamees is very anxious that I should remain a few days longer,
+  till Kasonso's son, Kampamba, comes with <i>certain</i>
+  information, and then he will see to our passing safely to
+  Chiw&eacute;r&eacute;'s village from Kasonso's. All have
+  confidence in this last-named chief as an upright man.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st June, 1867.</i>&mdash;Another party of marauders went
+  off this morning to plunder Nsama's country to the west of the
+  confluence of the Lofu as a punishment for a breach of public
+  law. The men employed are not very willing to go, but when they
+  taste the pleasure of plunder they will relish it more!</p>
+
+  <p>The watershed begins to have a northern slope about Moamba's,
+  lat. 10&deg; 10' S., but the streams are very tortuous, and the
+  people have very confused ideas as to where they <a name=
+  "Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>run. The Lokhopa, for instance, was
+  asserted by all the men at Moamba's to flow into Lokholu, and
+  then into a river going to Liemba, but a young wife of Moamba,
+  who seemed very intelligent, maintained that Lokhopa and Lokholu
+  went to the Chambez&eacute;; I therefore put it down thus. The
+  streams which feed the Chambez&eacute; and the Liemba overlap
+  each other, and it would require a more extensive survey than I
+  can give to disentangle them.</p>
+
+  <p>North of Moamba, on the Mereng&eacute;, the slope begins to
+  Liemba. The Lofu rises in Chibu&eacute;'s country, and with its
+  tributaries we have long ridges of denudation, each some 500 or
+  600 feet high, and covered with green trees. The valleys of
+  denudation enclosed by these hill ranges guide the streams
+  towards Liemba or the four rivers which flow into it. The country
+  gradually becomes lower, warmer, and tsetse and mosquitoes
+  appear; so at last we come to the remarkable cup-shaped cavity in
+  which Liemba reposes. Several streams fall down the nearly
+  perpendicular cliffs, and form beautiful cascades. The lines of
+  denudation are continued, one range rising behind another as far
+  as the eye can reach to the north and east of Liemba, and
+  probably the slope continues away down to Tanganyika. The
+  watershed extends westwards to beyond Casembe, and the Luapula,
+  or Chambez&eacute;, rises in the same parallels of latitude as
+  does the Lofu and the Lonzna.</p>
+
+  <p>The Arabs inform me that between this and the sea, about 200
+  miles distant, lies the country of the Wasango&mdash;called:
+  Usango&mdash;a fair people, like Portuguese, and very friendly to
+  strangers. The Wasango possess plenty of cattle: their chief is
+  called Mer&eacute;r&eacute;.<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id=
+  "FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class=
+  "fnanchor">[53]</a> They count this twenty-five days, while the
+  distance thence to the sea at Bagamoio is one month and
+  twenty-five days&mdash;say 440 miles. Uch&eacute;r&eacute; is
+  very far off northwards, but a man told <a name="Page_213" id=
+  "Page_213"></a>me that he went to a salt-manufactory in that
+  direction in eight days from Kasonso's. Mer&eacute;r&eacute; goes
+  frequently on marauding expeditions for cattle, and is instigated
+  thereto by his mother.</p>
+
+  <p>What we understand by primeval forest is but seldom seen in
+  the interior here, though the country cannot be described
+  otherwise than as generally covered with interminable forests.
+  Insects kill or dwarf some trees, and men maim others for the
+  sake of the bark-cloth; elephants break down a great number, and
+  it is only here and there that gigantic specimens are seen: they
+  may be expected in shut-in valleys among mountains, but on the
+  whole the trees are scraggy, and the varieties not great. The
+  different sorts of birds which sing among the branches seem to me
+  to exceed those of the Zambesi region, but I do not shoot them:
+  the number of new notes I hear astonishes me.</p>
+
+  <p>The country in which we now are is called by the Arabs and
+  natives Ulungu, that farther north-west is named Marunga. Hamees
+  is on friendly terms with the Mazitu (Watuta) in the east, who do
+  not plunder. The chief sent a man to Kasonso lately, and he
+  having received a present went away highly pleased.</p>
+
+  <p>Hamees is certainly very anxious to secure my safety. Some men
+  came from the N.E. to inquire about the disturbance here and they
+  recommend that I should go with them, and then up the east side
+  of the Lake to Ujiji; but that would ruin my plan of discovering
+  Moero and afterwards following the watershed, so as to be certain
+  that this is either the watershed of the Congo or Kile. He was
+  not well pleased when I preferred to go south and then westwards,
+  as it looks like rejecting his counsel; but he said if I waited
+  till his people came, then we should be able to speak with more
+  certainty.</p>
+
+  <p>On inquiring if any large mountains exist in this country, I
+  was told that Moufipa, or Fipa, opposite the lower end of
+  <a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>the Lake, is
+  largest&mdash;one can see Tanganyika from it. It probably gives
+  rise to the Nkalambw&eacute; River and the Luaz&eacute;.</p>
+
+  <p>There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are busy
+  in preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst the women
+  are cleaning or grinding their corn, which involves much hard
+  labour. They first dry this in the sun, then put it into a
+  mortar, and afterwards with a flat basket clean off the husks and
+  the dust, and grind it between two stones, the next thing is to
+  bring wood and water to cook it. The chief here was aroused the
+  other day, and threatened to burn his own house and all his
+  property because the people stole from it, but he did not proceed
+  so far: it was probably a way of letting the Arab dependants know
+  that he was aroused.</p>
+
+  <p>Some of the people who went to fight attacked a large village,
+  and killed several men; but in shooting in a bushy place they
+  killed one of their own party and wounded another.</p>
+
+  <p>On inquiring of an Arab who had sailed on Tanganyika which way
+  the water flowed, he replied to the south!</p>
+
+  <p>The wagtails build in the thatch of the huts; they are busy,
+  and men and other animals are active in the same way.</p>
+
+  <p>I am rather perplexed how to proceed. Some Arabs seem
+  determined to go westwards as soon as they can make it up with
+  Nsama, whilst others distrust him. One man will send his people
+  to pick up what ivory they can, but he himself will retire to the
+  Usango country. Nsama is expected to-day or to-morrow. It would
+  be such a saving of time and fatigue for us to go due west rather
+  than south, and then west, but I feel great hesitation as to
+  setting out on the circuitous route. Several Arabs came from the
+  Liemba side yesterday; one had sailed on Tanganyika, and
+  described the winds there as very baffling, but no one of them
+  has a clear idea of the Lake. They described the lower part as a
+  "sea," and thought it different from Tanganyika.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>Close observation of the
+  natives of Ulungu makes me believe them to be extremely polite.
+  The mode of salutation among relatives is to place the hands
+  round each other's chests kneeling, they then clap their hands
+  close to the ground. Some more abject individuals kiss the soil
+  before a chief; the generality kneel only, with the fore-arms
+  close to the ground, and the head bowed down to them, saying, "O
+  Ajadla chiusa, Mari a bwino." The Usanga say, "Aj&eacute; senga."
+  The clapping of hands to superiors, and even equals, is in some
+  villages a perpetually recurring sound. Aged persons are usually
+  saluted: how this extreme deference to each other could have
+  arisen, I cannot conceive; it does not seem to be fear of each
+  other that elicits it. Even the chiefs inspire no fear, and those
+  cruel old platitudes about governing savages by fear seem
+  unknown, yet governed they certainly are, and upon the whole very
+  well. The people were not very willing to go to punish Nsama's
+  breach of public law, yet, on the decision of the chiefs, they
+  went, and came back, one with a wooden stool, another with a mat,
+  a third with a calabash of ground-nuts or some dried meat, a hoe,
+  or a bow&mdash;poor, poor pay for a fortnight's hard work hunting
+  fugitives and burning villages.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th June, 1867.</i>&mdash;News came to-day that an Arab
+  party in the south-west, in Lunda, lost about forty people by the
+  small-pox ("ndu&eacute;"), and that the people there, having
+  heard of the disturbance with Nsama, fled from the Arabs, and
+  would sell neither ivory nor food: this looks like another
+  obstacle to our progress thither.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th-19th June, 1867.</i>&mdash;Hamees went to meet the
+  party from the south-west, probably to avoid bringing the
+  small-pox here. They remain at about two hours' distance. Hamees
+  reports that though the strangers had lost a great many people by
+  small-pox, they had brought good news of certain Arabs still
+  further west: one, Seide ben Umale, or Salem, lived at a village
+  near Casembe, ten days distant, and <a name="Page_216" id=
+  "Page_216"></a>another, Juma Merikano, or Katata Katanga, at
+  another village further north, and Seide ben Habib was at Phueto,
+  which is nearer Tanganyika. This party comprises the whole force
+  of Hamees, and he now declares that he will go to Nsama and make
+  the matter up, as he thinks that he is afraid to come here, and
+  so he will make the first approach to friendship.</p>
+
+  <p>On pondering over the whole subject, I see that, tiresome as
+  it is to wait, it is better to do so than go south and then west,
+  for if I should go I shall miss seeing Moero, which is said to be
+  three days from Nsama's present abode. His people go there for
+  salt, and I could not come to it from the south without being
+  known to them, and perhaps considered to be an Arab. Hamees
+  remarked that it was the Arab way first to smooth the path before
+  entering upon it; sending men and presents first, thereby
+  ascertaining the disposition of the inhabitants. He advises
+  patience, and is in hopes of making a peace with Nsama. That his
+  hopes are not unreasonable, he mentioned that when the
+  disturbance began, Nsama sent men with two tusks to the village
+  whence he had just been expelled, offering thereby to make the
+  matter up, but the Arabs, suspecting treachery, fired upon the
+  carriers and killed them, then ten goats and one tusk were sent
+  with the same object, and met with a repulse; Hamees thinks that
+  had he been there himself the whole matter would have been
+  settled amicably.</p>
+
+  <p>All complain of cold here. The situation is elevated, and we
+  are behind a clump of trees on the rivulet Chiloa, which keeps
+  the sun off us in the mornings. This cold induces the people to
+  make big fires in their huts, and frequently their dwellings are
+  burned. Minimum temperature is as low as 46&deg;; sometimes
+  33&deg;.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th June, 1867.</i>&mdash;The Arabs are all busy reading
+  their Koran, or Kur&aacute;n, and in praying for direction;
+  to-morrow they will call a meeting to deliberate as to what steps
+  they <a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>will take in the Nsama
+  affair. Hamees, it seems, is highly thought of by that chief, who
+  says, "Let him come, and all will be right." Hamees proposes to
+  go with but a few people. These Zanzibar men are very different
+  from the slavers of the Waiyau country.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th June, 1867.</i>&mdash;The people, though called, did
+  not assemble, but they will come to-morrow.</p>
+
+  <p>Young wagtails nearly full-fledged took wing, leaving one in
+  the nest; from not being molested by the people they took no
+  precautions, and ran out of the nest on the approach of the old
+  ones, making a loud chirping. The old ones tried to induce the
+  last one to come out too, by flying to the nest, and then making
+  a sally forth, turning round immediately to see if he followed:
+  he took a few days longer.</p>
+
+  <p>It was decided at the meeting that Hamees, with a few people
+  only, should go to Nsama on the first day after the appearance of
+  the new moon (they are very particular on this point); the
+  present month having been an unhappy one they will try the
+  next.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th June, 1867.</i>&mdash;A wedding took place among the
+  Arabs to-day. About a hundred blank cartridges were fired off,
+  and a procession of males, dressed in their best, marched through
+  the village. They sang with all their might, though with but
+  little music in the strain. Women sprinkled grain on their heads
+  as wishes for plenty.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id=
+  "FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class=
+  "fnanchor">[54]</a></p>
+
+  <p>Nsama is said to be waiting for the Arabs in his new stockade.
+  It is impossible to ascertain exactly who is to blame in this
+  matter, for I hear one side only; but the fact of the chiefs in
+  this part of the country turning out so readily to punish his
+  breach of public law, and no remonstrance coming from him, makes
+  me suspect that Nsama <a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>is the
+  guilty party. If he had been innocent he certainly would have
+  sent to ask the Bulungu, or B&auml;ulungu, why they had attacked
+  his people without cause.</p>
+
+  <p>[Here is an entry concerning the tribe living far to the
+  East.]</p>
+
+  <p>The Wasongo seem much like Zulus; they go naked, and have
+  prodigious numbers of cattle, which occupy the same huts with
+  their owners. Oxen two shukahs each; plenty of milk.
+  Mer&eacute;r&eacute; is very liberal with his cattle, and gives
+  every one an ox: there is no rice, but maize and ma&euml;re.
+  Hamees left the people to cultivate rice. Mer&eacute;r&eacute;
+  had plenty of ivory when the Arabs came first, but now has
+  none.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st July, 1867.</i>&mdash;New moon to-day. They are very
+  particular as to the time of offering up prayers, and in making
+  charms. One to-night was at 10 P.M. exactly.</p>
+
+  <p>A number of cabalistic figures were drawn by Halfani, and it
+  is believed that by these Nsama's whereabouts may be ascertained;
+  they are probably remains of the secret arts which prevailed
+  among Arabs before Mahomet appeared. These Suaheli Arabs appear
+  to have come down the coast before that Prophet was born.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd July, 1867.</i>&mdash;Kasonso's people are expected.
+  All the captives that were taken are to be returned, and a
+  quantity of cloth given to Nsama in addition: so far all seems
+  right. The new moon will appear to-night. The Arabs count from
+  one appearance to the next, not, as we do, from its conjunction
+  with the sun to the next.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;Katawanya came from near Liemba
+  to join the peacemakers. He and his party arrived at Liemba after
+  we did; he sent his people all round to seek ivory; they don't
+  care for anything but ivory, and cannot understand why I don't do
+  the same.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;An earthquake happened at 3.30
+  P.M., accompanied with a hollow rumbling sound; it made me feel
+  <a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>as if afloat, but it lasted
+  only a few seconds. The boys came running to ask me what it was.
+  Nowhere could it be safer; the huts will not fall, and there are
+  no high rocks near. Barometer 25.0. Temperature 68&deg; 5'. Heavy
+  cumuli hanging about; no rain afterwards.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;Hamees started this morning with
+  about 300 followers dressed in all their finery, and he declares
+  that his sole object is peace. Kasonso, Mombo, Chitimba send
+  their people, and go themselves to lend all their influence in
+  favour of peace. Syde stops here. Before starting Syde put some
+  incense on hot coals, and all the leaders of the party joined in
+  a short prayer; they seem earnest and sincere in their
+  incantations, according to their knowledge and belief. I wished
+  to go too, but Hamees objected, as not being quite sure whether
+  Nsama would be friendly, and he would not like anything to befall
+  me when with him.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;Kasonso found an excuse for not
+  going himself. Two men, Arabs it was said, came to
+  Chibu&eacute;'s and were there killed, and Kasonso must go to see
+  about it. The people who go carry food with them, evidently not
+  intending to live by plunder this time.</p>
+
+  <p>While the peacemakers are gone I am employing time in reading
+  Smith's 'Bible Dictionary,' and calculating different positions
+  which have stood over in travelling. I don't succeed well in the
+  B&auml;ulungu dialect.</p>
+
+  <p>The owners of huts lent to strangers have a great deal of toil
+  in consequence; they have to clean them after the visitors have
+  withdrawn; then, in addition to this, to clean themselves, all
+  soiled by the dust left by the lodgers; their bodies and clothes
+  have to be cleansed afterwards&mdash;they add food too in all
+  cases of acquaintanceship, and then we have to remember the
+  labour of preparing that food. My remaining here enables me to
+  observe that both men and women are in almost constant
+  employment. The men are <a name="Page_220" id=
+  "Page_220"></a>making mats, or weaving, or spinning; no one could
+  witness their assiduity in their little affairs and conclude that
+  they were a lazy people. The only idle time I observe here is in
+  the mornings about seven o'clock, when all come and sit to catch
+  the first rays of the sun as he comes over our clump of trees,
+  but even that time is often taken as an opportunity for stringing
+  beads.</p>
+
+  <p>I hear that some of Nsama's people crossed the Lovu at Karambo
+  to plunder, in retaliation for what they have suffered, and the
+  people there were afraid to fish, lest they should be caught by
+  them at a distance from their stockades.</p>
+
+  <p>The B&auml;ulungu men are in general tall and well formed,
+  they use bows over six feet in length, and but little bent. The
+  facial angle is as good in most cases as in Europeans, and they
+  have certainly as little of the "lark-heel" as whites. One or two
+  of the under front teeth are generally knocked out in women, and
+  also in men.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;Syde added to his other presents
+  some more beads: all have been very kind, which I attribute in a
+  great measure to Seyed Majid's letter. Hamees crossed the Lovu
+  to-day at a fordable spot. The people on the other side refused
+  to go with a message to Nsama, so Hamees had to go and compel
+  them by destroying their stockade. A second village acted in the
+  same way, though told that it was only peace that was sought of
+  Nsama: this stockade suffered the same fate, and then the people
+  went to Nsama, and he showed no reluctance to have intercourse.
+  He gave abundance of food, pombe, and bananas; the country being
+  extremely fertile. Nsama also came and ratified the peace by
+  drinking blood with several of the underlings of Hamees. He is
+  said to be an enormously bloated old man, who cannot move unless
+  carried, and women are constantly in attendance pouring pombe
+  into him. He gave Hamees ten tusks, and promised him twenty more,
+  and also to endeavour to make his people return what goods they
+  plundered from the <a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a>Arabs,
+  and he is to send his people over here to call us after the new
+  moon appears.</p>
+
+  <p>It is tiresome beyond measure to wait so long, but I hope to
+  see Moero for this exercise of patience, and I could not have
+  visited it had Hamees not succeeded in making peace.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;A lion roared very angrily at
+  the village last night, he was probably following the buffaloes
+  that sometimes come here to drink at night: they are all very
+  shy, and so is all the game, from fear of arrows.</p>
+
+  <p>A curious disease has attacked my left eyelid and surrounding
+  parts: a slight degree of itchiness is followed by great swelling
+  of the part. It must be a sort of lichen; exposure to the sun
+  seems to cure it, and this leads me to take long walks therein.
+  This is about 30&deg; 19' E. long.; lat. 8&deg; 57' 55" S.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;A fire broke out at 4 A.M., and
+  there being no wind the straw roofs were cleared off in front of
+  it on our side of the village. The granaries were easily
+  unroofed, as the roof is not attached to the walls, and the Arabs
+  tried to clear a space on their side, but were unable, and then
+  moved all their ivory and goods outside the stockade; their side
+  of the village was all consumed, and three goats perished in the
+  flames.</p>
+
+  <p>Chitimba has left us from a fear of his life, he says; it is
+  probable that he means this flight to be used as an excuse to
+  Nsama after we are gone. "And I, too, was obliged to flee from my
+  village to save my life! What could I do?" This is to be his
+  argument, I suspect.</p>
+
+  <p>A good many slaves came from the two villages that were
+  destroyed: on inquiry I was told that these would be returned
+  when Nsama gave the ivory promised.</p>
+
+  <p>When Nsama was told that an Englishman wished to go past him
+  to Moero, he replied, "Bring him, and I shall send men to take
+  him thither."</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>Hamees is building a
+  "temb&eacute;," or house, with a flat roof, and walls plastered
+  over with mud, to keep his ivory from fire while he is absent. We
+  expect that Nsama will send for us a few days after the 2nd
+  August, when the new moon appears; if they do not come soon
+  Hamees will send men to Nsama without waiting for his
+  messengers.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;Prayers, with the
+  Litany.<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> Slavery is a great
+  evil wherever I have seen it. A poor old woman and child are
+  among the captives, the boy about three years old seems a
+  mother's pet. His feet are sore from walking in the sun. He was
+  offered for two fathoms, and his mother for one fathom; he
+  understood it all, and cried bitterly, clinging to his mother.
+  She had, of course, no power to help him; they were separated at
+  Karungu afterwards.</p>
+
+  <p>[The above is an episode of every-day occurrence in the wake
+  of the slave-dealer. "Two fathoms," mentioned as the price of the
+  boy's life&mdash;the more valuable of the two, means four yards
+  of unbleached calico, which is a universal article of barter
+  throughout the greater part of Africa: the mother was bought for
+  two yards. The reader must not think that there are no lower
+  prices; in the famines which succeed the slave-dealer's raids,
+  boys and girls are at times to be purchased by the dealer for a
+  few handfuls of maize.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th July, 1867.</i>&mdash;Went 2 1/2 hours west to village
+  of Ponda, where a head Arab, called by the natives Tipo Tipo,
+  lives; his name is Hamid bin Mahamed bin Juma Borajib. He
+  presented a goat, a piece of white calico, and four big bunches
+  of beads, also a bag of Holcus sorghum, and apologised because it
+  was so little. He had lost much by Nsama; and <a name="Page_223"
+  id="Page_223"></a>received two arrow wounds there; they had only
+  twenty guns at the time, but some were in the stockade, and
+  though the people of Nsama were very numerous they beat them off,
+  and they fled carrying the bloated carcase of Nsama with them.
+  Some reported that boxes were found in the village, which
+  belonged to parties who had perished before, but Syde assured me
+  that this was a mistake.</p>
+
+  <p>Moero is three days distant, and as Nsama's people go thither
+  to collect salt on its banks, it would have been impossible for
+  me to visit it from the south without being seen, and probably
+  suffering loss.</p>
+
+  <p>The people seem to have no family names. A man takes the name
+  of his mother, or should his father die he may assume that.
+  Marriage is forbidden to the first, second, and third degrees:
+  they call first and second cousins brothers and sisters.</p>
+
+  <p>A woman, after cupping her child's temples for sore eyes,
+  threw the blood over the roof of her hut as a charm.</p>
+
+  <p>[In the above process a goat's horn is used with a small hole
+  in the pointed end. The base is applied to the part from which
+  the blood is to be withdrawn, and the operator, with a small
+  piece of chewed india-rubber in his mouth, exhausts the air, and
+  at the proper moment plasters the small hole up with his tongue.
+  When the cupping-horn is removed, some cuts are made with a small
+  knife, and it is again applied. As a rough appliance, it is a
+  very good one, and in great repute everywhere.]</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> It
+      subsequently proved to be the southern extremity of this
+      great Lake.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Elais,
+      sp.(?).</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> This is
+      a common symptom&mdash;men will suddenly lose all power in
+      the lower extremities, and remain helpless where they
+      fall.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> The men
+      heard in 1873 that he had been killed.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> This
+      comes near to the custom of throwing rice after the bride and
+      bridegroom in England.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> In his
+      Journal the Doctor writes "S," and occasionally "Service,"
+      whenever a Sunday entry occurs. We may add that at all times
+      during his travels the Services of the Church of England were
+      resorted to by him.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><a name="Page_224"
+  id="Page_224"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings.
+    Curious spider. Reach the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's.
+    Hamees marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride.
+    Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero.
+    Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders
+    on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake.
+    Information concerning the Chambez&eacute; and Luapula. Hears
+    of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe
+    apprised of Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Lakelet Mofw&eacute;. Arrives at Casembe's town.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>1st August, 1867.</i>&mdash;Hamees sends off men to trade
+  at Chiwer&eacute;'s. <i>Zikw&eacute;</i> is the name for locust
+  here. Nsig&eacute; or Zig&eacute; and Pansi the Suaheli
+  names.</p>
+
+  <p>A perforated stone had been placed on one of the poles which
+  form the gateway into this stockade, it is oblong, seven or eight
+  inches long by four broad, and bevelled off on one side and the
+  diameter of the hole in the middle is about an inch and a half:
+  it shows evidence of the boring process in rings. It is of hard
+  porphyry and of a pinkish hue, and resembles somewhat a weight
+  for a digging stick I saw in 1841 in the hands of a Bushwoman: I
+  saw one at a gateway near Kasonso's. The people know nothing of
+  its use except as a charm to keep away evil from the village.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd August, 1867.</i>&mdash;Chronometer A. stopped to-day
+  without any apparent cause except the earthquake.</p>
+
+  <p>It is probably malaria which causes that constant singing in
+  the ears ever since my illness at Lake Liemba.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd August, 1867.</i>&mdash;We expect a message from Nsama
+  every <a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>day, the new moon
+  having appeared on the first of this month, and he was to send
+  after its appearance.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th August, 1867.</i>&mdash;Men came yesterday with the
+  message that Hamees must wait a little longer, as Nsama had not
+  yet got all the ivory and the goods which were stolen: they
+  remained over yesterday. The headman, Katala, says that Lunda is
+  eight days from Nsama or Moero, and in going we cross a large
+  river called Movue, which flows into Luapula; another river
+  called Mokobwa comes from the south-east into Moero. Itawa is the
+  name of Nsama's country and people.</p>
+
+  <p>A day distant from Nsama's place there is a hot fountain
+  called "Paka pezhia," and around it the earth shakes at times: it
+  is possible that the earthquake we felt here may be connected
+  with this same centre of motion.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th August, 1867.</i>&mdash;The weather is becoming milder.
+  An increase of cold was caused by the wind coming from the south.
+  We have good accounts of the Wasongo from all the Arabs, their
+  houses built for cattle are flat-roofed and enormously large;
+  one, they say, is a quarter of a mile long. Mer&eacute;r&eacute;
+  the chief has his dwelling-house within it: milk, butter, cheese,
+  are in enormous quantities; the tribe, too, is very large. I fear
+  that they may be spoiled by the Arab underlings.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th August, 1867.</i>&mdash;Some of my people went down to
+  Karambo and were detained by the chief, who said "I won't let you
+  English go away and leave me in trouble with these Arabs."</p>
+
+  <p>A slave had been given in charge to a man here and escaped,
+  the Arabs hereupon went to Karambo and demanded payment from the
+  chief there; he offered clothing, but they refused it, and would
+  have a man; he then offered a man, but this man having two
+  children they demanded all three. They bully as much as they
+  please by their fire-arms. After being spoken to by my people the
+  Arabs came away. The chief begged that I would come <a name=
+  "Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>and visit him once more, for only
+  one day, but it is impossible, for we expect to move directly. I
+  sent the information to Hamees, who replied that they had got a
+  clue to the man who was wiling away their slaves from them. My
+  people saw others of the low squad which always accompanies the
+  better-informed Arabs bullying the people of another village, and
+  taking fowls and food without payment. Slavery makes a bad
+  neighbourhood!</p>
+
+  <p>Hamees is on friendly terms with a tribe of Mazitu who say
+  that they have given up killing people. They lifted a great many
+  cattle, but have very few now; some of them came with him to show
+  the way to Kasonso's.</p>
+
+  <p>Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business is
+  carried on in Zanzibar slave-market. A man goes about calling out
+  the price he wants for the slave, who walks behind him; if a
+  woman, she is taken into a hut to be examined in a state of
+  nudity.</p>
+
+  <p>Some of the Arabs believe that meteoric stones are thrown at
+  Satan for his wickedness. They believe that cannon were taken up
+  Kilimanjaro by the first Arabs who came into the country, and
+  there they lie. They deny that Van der Decken did more than go
+  round a portion of the base of the mountain; he could not get on
+  the mass of the mountain: all his donkeys and some of his men
+  died by the cold. Hamees seems to be Cooley's great geographical
+  oracle!</p>
+
+  <p>The information one can cull from the Arabs respecting the
+  country on the north-west is very indefinite. They magnify the
+  difficulties in the way by tales of the cannibal tribes, where
+  anyone dying is bought and no one ever buried, but this does not
+  agree with the fact, which also is asserted, that the cannibals
+  have plenty of sheep and goats. The Rua is about ten days west of
+  Tanganyika, and five days beyond it a lake or river ten miles
+  broad is reached; it is said to be called Logaraw&aacute;. All
+  the water flows <a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>northwards,
+  but no reliance can be placed on the statements. Kiombo is said
+  to be chief of Rua country.</p>
+
+  <p>Another man asserts that Tanganyika flows northwards and forms
+  a large water beyond Uganda, but no dependence can be placed on
+  the statements of these half Arabs; they pay no attention to
+  anything but ivory and food.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th August, 1867.</i>&mdash;Nsama requested the Arabs to
+  give back his son who was captured; some difficulty was made
+  about this by his captor, but Hamees succeeded in getting him and
+  about nine others, and they are sent off to-day. We wait only for
+  the people, who are scattered about the country. Hamees presented
+  cakes, flour, a fowl and leg of goat, with a piece of eland meat:
+  this animal goes by the same name here as at
+  Kolobeng&mdash;"Pofu."<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id=
+  "FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class=
+  "fnanchor">[56]</a></p>
+
+  <p>A fig-tree here has large knobs on the bark, like some species
+  of acacia; and another looks like the Malolo of the Zambesi
+  magnified. A yellow wood gives an odour like incense when
+  burned.</p>
+
+  <p>A large spider makes a nest inside the huts. It consists of a
+  piece of pure white paper, an inch and a half broad, stuck flat
+  on the wall; under this some forty or fifty eggs are placed, and
+  then a quarter of an inch of thinner paper is put round it,
+  apparently to fasten the first firmly. When making the paper the
+  spider moves itself over the surface in wavy lines; she then sits
+  on it with her eight legs spread over all for three weeks
+  continuously, catching and eating any insects, as cockroaches,
+  that come near her nest. After three weeks she leaves it to hunt
+  for food, but always returns at night: the natives do not molest
+  it.</p>
+
+  <p>A small ant masters the common fly by seizing a wing or leg,
+  and holding on till the fly is tired out; at first the fly
+  <a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>can move about on the wing
+  without inconvenience, but it is at last obliged to succumb to an
+  enemy very much smaller than itself.</p>
+
+  <p>A species of Touraco, new to me, has a broad yellow mask on
+  the upper part of the bill and forehead; the topknot is purple,
+  the wings the same as in other species, but the red is roseate.
+  The yellow of the mask plates is conspicuous at a distance.</p>
+
+  <p>A large callosity forms on the shoulders of the regular
+  Unyamwesi porters, from the heavy weights laid on them. I have
+  noticed them an inch and a half thick along the top of the
+  shoulders. An old man was pointed out to me who had once carried
+  five frasilahs (= 175 lbs.) of ivory from his own country to the
+  coast.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th August, 1867.</i>&mdash;We marched to-day from
+  Chitimba's village after three months and ten days' delay. On
+  reaching Ponda, 2-1/2 hours distant, we found Tipo Tipo, or
+  Hamidi bin Mohamad, gone on, and so we followed him. Passed a
+  fine stream flowing S.W. to the Lofu. Tipo Tipo gave me a fine
+  fat goat.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st August, 1867.</i>&mdash;Pass along a fine undulating
+  district, with much country covered with forest, but many open
+  glades, and fine large trees along the water-courses. We were on
+  the northern slope of the watershed, and could see far. Crossed
+  two fine rivulets. The oozes still full and flowing.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st September, 1867.</i>&mdash;We had to march in the
+  afternoon on account of a dry patch existing in the direct way.
+  We slept without water, though by diverging a few miles to the
+  north we should have crossed many streams, but this is the best
+  path for the whole year.</p>
+
+  <p>Baraka went back to Tipo Tipo's village, thus putting his
+  intention of begging among the Arab slaves into operation. He has
+  only one complaint, and that is dislike to work. He tried
+  perseveringly to get others to run away with him; lost the
+  medicine-box, six table-cloths, and all our tools <a name=
+  "Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>by giving his load off to a country
+  lad while he went to collect mushrooms: he will probably return
+  to Zanzibar, and be a slave to the Arab slaves after being a
+  perpetual nuisance to us for upwards of a year.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd September, 1867.</i>&mdash;When we reached the ford of
+  the Lofu, we found that we were at least a thousand feet below
+  Chitimba's. The last six hours of our march were without water,
+  but when near to Chungu's village at the ford we came to fine
+  flowing rivulets, some ten feet or so broad. Here we could see
+  westwards and northwards the long lines of hills of denudation in
+  Nsama's country, which till lately was densely peopled. Nsama is
+  of the Babemba family. Kasonso, Chitimba, Kiw&eacute;,
+  Urongw&eacute;, are equals and of one family, Urungai. Chungu is
+  a pleasant person, and liberal according to his means. Large game
+  is very abundant through all this country.</p>
+
+  <p>The Lofu at the ford was 296 feet, the water flowing briskly
+  over hardened sandstone flag, and from thigh to waist deep;
+  elsewhere it is a little narrower, but not passable except by
+  canoes.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th and 5th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;Went seven hours
+  west of the Lofu to a village called Hara, one of those burned by
+  Hamees because the people would not take a peaceful message to
+  Nsama. This country is called Itawa, and Hara is one of the
+  districts. We waited at Hara to see if Nsama wished us any nearer
+  to himself. He is very much afraid of the Arabs, and well he may
+  be, for he was until lately supposed to be invincible. He fell
+  before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic throughout the
+  country. The land is full of food, though the people have nearly
+  all fled. The ground-nuts are growing again for want of reapers;
+  and 300 people living at free-quarters make no impression on the
+  food.</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;Went three hours west of
+  Hara, and came to Nsama's new stockade, built close by the old
+  one <a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>burned by Tipo Tipo, as
+  Hamidi bin Mohamed was named by Nsama.<a name="FNanchor_57_57"
+  id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class=
+  "fnanchor">[57]</a> I sent a message to Nsama, and received an
+  invitation to come and visit him, but bring no guns. A large
+  crowd of his people went with us, and before we came to the inner
+  stockade they felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were
+  concealed about my person. When we reached Nsama, we found a very
+  old man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, showing
+  that he was addicted to pombe: his people have to carry him. I
+  gave him a cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, which he readily
+  granted, and asked leave to feel my clothes and hair. I advised
+  him to try and live at peace, but his people were all so much
+  beyond the control of himself and headmen, that at last, after
+  scolding them, he told me that he would send for me by night, and
+  then we could converse, but this seems to have gone out of his
+  head. He sent me a goat, flour, and pombe, and next day we
+  returned to Hara.</p>
+
+  <p>Nsama's people have generally small, well-chiseled features,
+  and many are really handsome, and have nothing of the West Coast
+  Negro about them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and
+  greatly disfigure their mouths. The only difference between them
+  and Europeans is the colour. Many of the men have very
+  finely-formed heads, and so have the women; and the fashion of
+  wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to advantage. The
+  forehead is shaved off to the crown, the space narrowing as it
+  goes up; then the back hair, is arranged into knobs of about ten
+  rows.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a><i>10th September,
+  1867.</i>&mdash;Some people of Ujiji have come to Nsama's to buy
+  ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled
+  them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, or
+  rather canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands. My goods are
+  reported safe, and the meat of the buffaloes which died in the
+  way is there, and sun-dried. I sent a box, containing papers,
+  books, and some clothes, to Ujiji.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;I remained at Hara, for I
+  was ill, and Hamees had no confidence in Nsama, because he
+  promised his daughter to wife by way of cementing the peace, but
+  had not given her. Nsama also told Hamees to stay at Hara, and he
+  would send him ivory for sale, but none came, nor do people come
+  here to sell provisions, as they do elsewhere; so Hamees will
+  return to Chitimba's, to guard his people and property there, and
+  send on Syde Hamidi and his servants to Lop&eacute;r&eacute;,
+  Kabuir&eacute;, and Moero, to buy ivory. He advised me to go with
+  them, as he has no confidence in Nsama; and Hamidi thought that
+  this was the plan to be preferred: it would be slower, as they
+  would purchase ivory on the road, but safer to pass his country
+  altogether than trust myself in his power.</p>
+
+  <p>The entire population of the country has received a shock from
+  the conquest of Nsama, and their views of the comparative values
+  of bows and arrows and guns have undergone a great change. Nsama
+  was the Napoleon of these countries; no one could stand before
+  him, hence the defeat of the invincible Nsama has caused a great
+  panic. The Arabs say that they lost about fifty men in all: Nsama
+  must have lost at least an equal number. The people seem
+  intelligent, and will no doubt act on the experience so dearly
+  bought.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="fp232" id="fp232"></a> <img src="images/fp232.jpg"
+    width="500" height="285" alt="The Arrival of Hamees' Bride"
+    title="The Arrival of Hamees' Bride" /><br />
+    <b>The Arrival of
+    Hamees' Bride</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>In the midst of the doubts of Hamees a daughter of Nsama came
+  this afternoon to be a wife and cementer of the peace! She came
+  riding "pickaback" on a man's <a name="Page_232" id=
+  "Page_232"></a>shoulders; a nice, modest, good-looking young
+  woman, her hair rubbed all over with <i>nkola</i>, a red pigment,
+  made from the camwood, and much used as an ornament. She was
+  accompanied by about a dozen young and old female attendants,
+  each carrying a small basket with some provisions, as cassava,
+  ground-nuts, &amp;c. The Arabs were all dressed in their finery,
+  and the slaves, in fantastic dresses, flourished swords, fired
+  guns, and yelled. When she was brought to Hamees' hut she
+  descended, and with her maids went into the hut. She and her
+  attendants had all small, neat features. I had been sitting with
+  Hamees, and now rose up and went away; as I passed him, he spoke
+  thus to himself: "Hamees Wadim Tagh! see to what you have brought
+  yourself!!"</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;A guide had come from Nsama
+  to take us to the countries beyond his territory. Hamees set off
+  this morning with his new wife to his father-in-law, but was soon
+  met by two messengers, who said that he was not to come yet. We
+  now sent for all the people who were out to go west or north-west
+  without reference to Nsama.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th-18th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;Hamidi went to Nsama
+  to try and get guides, but he would not let him come into his
+  stockade unless he came up to it without either gun or sword.
+  Hamidi would not go in on these conditions, but Nsama promised
+  guides, and they came after a visit by Hamees to Nsama, which he
+  paid without telling any of us: he is evidently ashamed of his
+  father-in-law.</p>
+
+  <p>Those Arabs who despair of ivory invest their remaining beads
+  and cloth in slaves.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;I had resolved to go to
+  Nsama's, and thence to Moero to-day, but Hamees sent to say that
+  men had come, and we were all to go with them on the 22nd. Nsama
+  was so vacillating that I had no doubt but this was best.</p>
+
+  <p>Hamees' wife, seeing the preparations that were made for
+  starting, thought that her father was to be attacked, <a name=
+  "Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>so she, her attendants, and the
+  guides decamped by night. Hamees went again to Nsama and got
+  other guides to enable us to go off at once.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd September, 1867.</i>&mdash;We went north for a couple
+  of hours, then descended into the same valley as that in which I
+  found Nsama. This valley is on the slope of the watershed, and
+  lies east and west: a ridge of dark-red sandstone, covered with
+  trees, forms its side on the south. Other ridges like this make
+  the slope have the form of a stair with huge steps: the descent
+  is gradually lost as we insensibly climb up the next ridge. The
+  first plain between the steps is at times swampy, and the paths
+  are covered with the impressions of human feet, which, being
+  hardened by the sun, make walking on their uneven surface very
+  difficult. Mosquitoes again; we had lost them during our long
+  stay on the higher lands behind us.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd September, 1867.</i>&mdash;A fire had broken out the
+  night after we left Hara, and the wind being strong, it got the
+  upper hand, and swept away at once the whole of the temporary
+  village of dry straw huts: Hamees lost all his beads, guns,
+  powder, and cloth, except one bale. The news came this morning,
+  and prayers were at once offered for him with incense; some goods
+  will also be sent, as a little incense was. The prayer-book was
+  held in the smoke of the incense while the responses were made.
+  These Arabs seem to be very religious in their way: the prayers
+  were chiefly to Harasji, some relative of Mohamad.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;Roused at 3 A.M. to be told
+  that the next stage had no water, and we should be oppressed with
+  the midday heat if we went now. We were to go at 2 P.M. Hamidi's
+  wife being ill yesterday put a stop to our march on that
+  afternoon. After the first hour we descended from the ridge to
+  which we had ascended, we had then a wall of tree-covered rocks
+  on our left of more than a thousand feet in altitude; after
+  flanking it for a while we went up, <a name="Page_234" id=
+  "Page_234"></a>and then along it northwards till it vanished in
+  forest. Slept without a fresh supply of water.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;Off at 5.30 A.M., through
+  the same well-grown forest we have passed and came to a village
+  stockade, where the gates were shut, and the men all outside, in
+  fear of the Arabs; we then descended from the ridge on which it
+  stood, about a thousand feet, into an immense plain, with a large
+  river in the distance, some ten miles off.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;Two and a half hours
+  brought us to the large river we saw yesterday; it is more than a
+  mile wide and full of papyrus and other aquatic plants and very
+  difficult to ford, as the papyrus roots are hard to the bare
+  feet, and we often plunged into holes up to the waist. A loose
+  mass floated in the middle of our path; one could sometimes get
+  on along this while it bent and heaved under the weight, but
+  through it he would plunge and find great difficulty to get out:
+  the water under this was very cold from evaporation; it took an
+  hour and a half to cross it. It is called Chis&eacute;ra, and
+  winds away to the west to fall into the Kalongosi and Moero. Many
+  animals, as elephants, tahetsis, zebras, and buffaloes, graze on
+  the long sloping banks of about a quarter of a mile down, while
+  the ranges of hills we crossed as mere ridges now appear behind
+  us in the south.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;The people are numerous and
+  friendly. One elephant was killed, and we remained to take the
+  ivory from the dead beast; buffaloes and zebras were also killed.
+  It was so cloudy that no observations could be taken to determine
+  our position, but Chis&eacute;ra rises in Lop&eacute;r&eacute;.
+  Further west it is free of papyrus, and canoes are required to
+  cross it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th September, 1867.</i>&mdash;Two hours north brought us
+  to the Kamosenga, a river eight yards wide, of clear water which
+  ran strongly among aquatic plants. Hippopotami, buffalo, and
+  zebra abound. This goes into the Chis&eacute;ra eastwards;
+  <a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>country flat and covered
+  with dense tangled bush. Cassias and another tree of the pea
+  family are now in flower, and perfume the air. Other two hours
+  took us round a large bend of this river.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th September, 1867.</i>.&mdash;We crossed the Kamosenga
+  or another, and reach Karungu's. The Kamosenga divides
+  Lop&eacute;r&eacute; from Itawa, the latter being Nsama's
+  country; Lop&eacute;r&eacute; is north-west of it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st October, 1867.</i>&mdash;Karungu was very much afraid
+  of us; he kept every one out of his stockade at first, but during
+  the time the Arabs sent forward to try and conciliate other
+  chiefs he gradually became more friendly. He had little ivory to
+  sell, and of those who had, Mt&eacute;t&eacute; or Mt&eacute;ma
+  seemed inclined to treat the messengers roughly. Men were also
+  sent to Nsama asking him to try and induce Mt&eacute;ma and
+  Chikongo to be friendly and sell ivory and provisions, but he
+  replied that these chiefs were not men under him, and if they
+  thought themselves strong enough to contend against guns he had
+  nothing to say to them. Other chiefs threatened to run away as
+  soon as they saw the Arabs approaching. These were assured that
+  we meant to pass through the country alone, and if they gave us
+  guides to show us how, we should avoid the villages altogether,
+  and proceed to the countries where ivory was to be bought;
+  however, the panic was too great, no one would agree to our
+  overtures, and at last when we did proceed a chief on the River
+  Choma fulfilled his threat and left us three empty villages.
+  There were no people to sell though the granaries were crammed,
+  and it was impossible to prevent the slaves from stealing.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd-4th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;When Chikongo heard Tipo
+  Tipo's message about buying ivory he said, "And when did Tipo
+  Tipo place ivory in my country that he comes seeking it?" Yet he
+  sent a tusk and said "That is all I have, and he is not to come
+  here." Their hostile actions are caused principally <a name=
+  "Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>by fear. "If Nsama could not stand
+  before the Malongwana or traders, how can we face them?" I wished
+  to go on to Moero, but all declare that our ten guns would put
+  all the villages to flight: they are terror-struck. First rains
+  of this season on the 5th.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;I had a long conversation
+  with Syde, who thinks that the sun rises and sets because the
+  Koran says so, and he sees it. He asserts that Jesus foretold the
+  coming of Mohamad; and that it was not Jesus who suffered on the
+  cross but a substitute, it being unlikely that a true prophet
+  would be put to death so ignominiously. He does not understand
+  how we can be glad that our Saviour died for our sins.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;An elephant killed by Tipo
+  Tipo's men. It is always clouded over, and often not a breath of
+  air stirring.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;A great many of the women of
+  this district and of Lop&eacute;r&eacute; have the swelled
+  thyroid gland called <i>goitre</i> or Derbyshire neck; men, too,
+  appeared with it, and they in addition have hydrocele of large
+  size.</p>
+
+  <p>An Arab who had been long ill at Chitimba's died yesterday,
+  and was buried in the evening. No women were allowed to come
+  near. A long silent prayer was uttered over the corpse when it
+  was laid beside the grave, and then a cloth was held over as men
+  in it deposited the remains beneath sticks placed slanting on the
+  side of the bottom of the grave; this keeps the earth from coming
+  directly into contact with the body.</p>
+
+  <p>A feast was made by the friends of the departed, and portions
+  sent to all who had attended the funeral: I got a good share.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;The last we hear of Nsama is
+  that he will not interfere with Chikongo. Two wives beat drums
+  and he dances to them; he is evidently in his dotage. We hear of
+  many Arabs to the west of us.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a><i>20th October,
+  1867.</i>&mdash;Very ill; I am always so when I have no
+  work&mdash;sore bones&mdash;much headache; then lost power over
+  the muscles of the back, as at Liemba; no appetite and much
+  thirst. The fever uninfluenced by medicine.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st October, 1867.</i>&mdash;Syde sent his men to build a
+  new hut in a better situation. I hope it may be a healthful one
+  for me.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd October, 1867.</i>&mdash;The final message from
+  Chikongo was a discouraging one&mdash;no ivory. The Arabs,
+  however, go west with me as far as Chisaw&eacute;'s, who, being
+  accustomed to Arabs from Tanganyika, will give me men to take me
+  on to Moero: the Arabs will then return, and we shall move
+  on.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd October, 1867.</i>&mdash;Tipo Tipo gave Karungu some
+  cloth, and this chief is "looking for something" to give him in
+  return; this detains us one day more.</p>
+
+  <p>When a slave wishes to change his master he goes to one whom
+  he likes better and breaks a spear or a bow in his
+  presence&mdash;the transference is irrevocable. This curious
+  custom prevails on the Zambesi, and also among the Wanyamwesi; if
+  the old master wishes to recover his slave the new one may refuse
+  to part with him except when he gets his full price: a case of
+  this kind happened here yesterday.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;Authority was found in the
+  Koran for staying one day more here. This was very trying; but
+  the fact was our guide from Hara hither had enticed a young slave
+  girl to run away, and he had given her in charge to one of his
+  countrymen, who turned round and tried to secure her for himself,
+  and gave information about the other enticing her away. Nothing
+  can be more tedious than the Arab way of travelling.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;We went S.W. for five hours
+  through an undulating, well-wooded, well-peopled country, and
+  quantities of large game. Several trees give out when burned
+  <a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>very fine scents; others do
+  it when cut. Euphorbia is abundant. We slept by a torrent which
+  had been filled with muddy water by late rains. It thunders every
+  afternoon, and rains somewhere as regularly as it thunders, but
+  these are but partial rains; they do not cool the earth; nor fill
+  the cracks made in the dry season.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;Off early in a fine drizzling
+  rain, which continued for two hours, and came on to a plain about
+  three miles broad, full of large game. These plains are swamps at
+  times, and they are flanked by ridges of denudation some 200 or
+  300 feet above them, and covered with trees.</p>
+
+  <p>The ridges are generally hardened sandstone, marked with
+  madrepores, and masses of brown haematite. It is very hot, and we
+  become very tired. There is no system in the Arab marches. The
+  first day was five hours, this 3-1/2 hours; had it been
+  reversed&mdash;short marches during the first days and longer
+  afterwards&mdash;the muscles would have become inured to the
+  exertion. A long line of heights on our south points to the
+  valley of Nsama.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;Five hours brought us to the
+  Choma River and the villages of Chifupa, but, as already
+  mentioned, the chief and people had fled, and no persuasion could
+  prevail on them to come and sell us food. We showed a few who
+  ventured to come among us what we were willing to give for flour,
+  but they said, "Yes, we will call the women and they will sell."
+  None came.</p>
+
+  <p>Rested all day on the banks of the Choma, which is a muddy
+  stream coming from the north and going to the south-west to join
+  the Chis&eacute;ra. It has worn itself a deep bed in the mud of
+  its banks, and is twenty yards wide and in some spots waist deep,
+  at other parts it is unfordable, it contains plenty of fish, and
+  hippopotami and crocodiles abound. I bought a few ground-nuts at
+  an exorbitant price, the men evidently not seeing that it
+  <a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>would have been better to
+  part with more at a lower price than run off and leave all to be
+  eaten by the slaves.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th October, 1867.</i>&mdash;Two ugly images were found in
+  huts built for them: they represent in a poor way the people of
+  the country, and are used in rain-making and curing the sick
+  ceremonies; this is the nearest approach to idol worship I have
+  seen in the country.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id=
+  "FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class=
+  "fnanchor">[58]</a></p>
+
+  <p><i>31st October, 1867.</i>&mdash;We marched over a long line
+  of hills on our west, and in five and a half hours came to some
+  villages where the people sold us food willingly, and behaved
+  altogether in a friendly way. We were met by a herd of buffaloes,
+  but Syde seized my gun from the boy who carried it, and when the
+  animals came close past me I was powerless, and not at all
+  pleased with the want of good sense shown by my usually polite
+  Arab friend.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Note</i>.&mdash;The Choma is said by Mohamad bin Saleh to
+  go into Tanganyika (??). It goes to Kalongosi.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st November, 1867.</i>&mdash;We came along between ranges
+  of hills considerably higher than those we have passed in Itawa
+  or Nsama's country, and thickly covered with trees, some in full
+  foliage, and some putting forth fresh red leaves; the hills are
+  about 700 or 800 feet above the valleys. This is not a district
+  of running rills: we crossed three sluggish streamlets knee deep.
+  Buffaloes are very numerous.</p>
+
+  <p>The Ratel covers the buffalo droppings with earth in order to
+  secure the scavenger beetles which bury themselves therein, thus
+  he prevents them from rolling a portion away as usual.</p>
+
+  <p>We built our sheds on a hillside. Our course was west and
+  6-1/4 hours.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd November, 1867.</i>&mdash;Still in the same direction,
+  and in an open valley remarkable for the numbers of a small
+  euphorbia,<a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a> which we
+  smashed at every step. Crossed a small but strong rivulet, the
+  Lipand&eacute;, going south-west to Moero, then, an hour
+  afterwards, crossed it again, now twenty yards wide and knee
+  deep. After descending from the tree-covered hill which divides
+  Lipand&eacute; from Luao, we crossed the latter to sleep on its
+  western bank. The hills are granite now, and a range on our left,
+  from 700 to 1500 feet high, goes on all the way to Moero.</p>
+
+  <p>These valleys along which we travel are beautiful. Green is
+  the prevailing colour; but the clumps of trees assume a great
+  variety of forms, and often remind one of English park scenery.
+  The long line of slaves and carriers, brought up by their Arab
+  employers, adds life to the scene, they are in three bodies, and
+  number 450 in all. Each party has a guide with a flag, and when
+  that is planted all that company stops till it is lifted, and a
+  drum is beaten, and a kudu's horn sounded. One party is headed by
+  about a dozen leaders, dressed with fantastic head-gear of
+  feathers and beads, red cloth on the bodies, and skins cut into
+  strips and twisted: they take their places in line, the drum
+  beats, the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in. These sounds
+  seem to awaken a sort of <i>esprit de corps</i> in those who have
+  once been slaves. My attendants now jumped up, and would scarcely
+  allow me time to dress when they heard the-sounds of their
+  childhood, and all day they were among the foremost. One said to
+  me "that his feet were rotten with marching," and this though
+  told that they were not called on to race along like slaves.</p>
+
+  <p>The Africans cannot stand sneers. When any mishap occurs in
+  the march (as when a branch tilts a load off a man's shoulder)
+  all who see it set up a yell of derision; if anything is
+  accidentally spilled, or if one is tired and sits down, the same
+  yell greets him, and all are excited thereby to exert themselves.
+  They hasten on with their loads, and hurry with the sheds they
+  build, the masters <a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>only
+  bringing up the rear, and helping anyone who may be sick. The
+  distances travelled were quite as much as the masters or we could
+  bear. Had frequent halts been made&mdash;as, for instance, a half
+  or a quarter of an hour at the end of every hour or two&mdash;but
+  little distress would have been felt; but five hours at a stretch
+  is more than men can bear in a hot climate. The female slaves
+  held on bravely; nearly all carried loads on their heads, the
+  head, or lady of the party, who is also the wife of the Arab, was
+  the only exception. She had a fine white shawl, with ornaments of
+  gold and silver on her head. These ladies had a jaunty walk, and
+  never gave in on the longest march; many pounds' weight of fine
+  copper leglets above the ankles seemed only to help the sway of
+  their walk: as soon as they arrive at the sleeping-place they
+  begin to cook, and in this art they show a good deal of
+  expertness, making savoury dishes for their masters out of wild
+  fruits and other not very likely materials.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd November, 1867.</i>&mdash;The ranges of hills retire as
+  we advance; the soil is very rich. At two villages the people did
+  not want us, so we went on and encamped near a third, Kabwakwa,
+  where a son of Mohamad bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi,
+  lives. The chief of this part is Muabo, but we did not see him:
+  the people brought plenty of food for us to buy. The youth's
+  father is at Casembe's. The country-people were very much given
+  to falsehood&mdash;every place inquired for was near&mdash;ivory
+  abundant&mdash;provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our
+  headmen trusted to these statements of this young man rather, and
+  he led them to desist going further. Rua country was a month
+  distant, he said, and but little ivory there. It is but three
+  days off. (We saw it after three days.) "No ivory at Casembe's or
+  here in Buir&eacute;, or Kabuir&eacute;." He was right as to
+  Casembe. Letters, however, came from Hamees, with news of a
+  depressing nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is Mambw&eacute;.
+  <a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>Chitimba's people are
+  fighting for the chieftainship: great hunger prevails there now,
+  the Arabs having bought up all the food. Moriri, a chief
+  dispossessed of his country by Nsama, wished Hamees to restore
+  his possessions, but Hamees said that he had made peace, and
+  would not interfere.</p>
+
+  <p>This unfavourable news from a part where the chief results of
+  their trading were deposited, made Syde and Tipo Tipo decide to
+  remain in Buir&eacute; only ten or twenty days, send out people
+  to buy what ivory they could find, and then, retire.</p>
+
+  <p>As Syde and Tipo Tipo were sending men to Casembe for ivory, I
+  resolved to go thither first, instead of shaping my course for
+  Ujiji.</p>
+
+  <p>Very many cases of goitre in men and women here: I see no
+  reason for it. This is only 3350 feet above the sea.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;Start for Moero, convoyed by
+  all the Arabs for some distance: they have been extremely kind.
+  We draw near to the mountain-range on our left, called Kakoma,
+  and sleep at one of Kaputa's villages, our course now being
+  nearly south.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;Villages are very thickly
+  studded over the valley formed by Kakoma range, and another at a
+  greater distance on our right; 100 or 200 yards is a common
+  distance between these villages, which, like those in Londa, or
+  Lunda, are all shaded with trees of a species of <i>Ficus
+  indica</i>. One belongs to Puta, and this Puta, the paramount
+  chief, sent to say that if we slept there, and gave him a cloth,
+  he would send men to conduct us next day, and ferry us across: I
+  was willing to remain, but his people would not lend a hut, so we
+  came on to the Lake, and no ferry. Probably he thought that we
+  were going across the Lualaba into Rua.</p>
+
+  <p>Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of
+  mountains on the east and west. Its banks are <a name="Page_243"
+  id="Page_243"></a>of coarse sand, and slope gradually down to the
+  water: outside these banks stands a thick belt of tropical
+  vegetation, in which fishermen build their huts. The country
+  called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of dark
+  mountains: another range of less height, but more broken, stands
+  along the eastern shore, and in it lies the path to Casembe. We
+  slept in a fisherman's hut on the north shore. They brought a
+  large fish, called "mond&eacute;," for sale; it has a slimy skin,
+  and no scales, a large head, with tentaculae like the Siluridie,
+  and large eyes: the great gums in its mouth have a brush-like
+  surface, like a whale's in miniature: it is said to eat small
+  fish. A bony spine rises on its back (I suppose for defence),
+  which is 2-1/2 inches long, and as thick as a quill. They are
+  very retentive of life.</p>
+
+  <p>The northern shore has a fine sweep like an unbent bow, and
+  round the western end flows the water that makes the river
+  Lualaba, which, before it enters Moero, is the Luapula, and that
+  again (if the most intelligent reports speak true) is the
+  Chambez&eacute; before it enters Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo.</p>
+
+  <p>We came along the north shore till we reached the eastern
+  flanking range, then ascended and turned south, the people very
+  suspicious, shutting their gates as we drew near. We were alone,
+  and only nine persons in all, but they must have had reason for
+  fear. One headman refused us admission, then sent after us,
+  saying that the man who had refused admission was not the chief:
+  he had come from a distance, and had just arrived. It being
+  better to appear friendly than otherwise, we went back, and were
+  well entertained. Provisions were given when we went away. Flies
+  abound, and are very troublesome; they seem to be attracted by
+  the great numbers of fish caught. The people here are Babemba,
+  but beyond the river Kalongosi they are all Balunda.</p>
+
+  <p>A trade in salt is carried on from different salt springs and
+  salt mud to Lunda and elsewhere. We meet parties of <a name=
+  "Page_244" id="Page_244"></a>salt-traders daily, and they return
+  our salutations very cordially, rubbing earth on the arms. We
+  find our path lies between two ranges of mountains, one flanking
+  the eastern shore, the other about three miles more inland, and
+  parallel to it: these are covered thickly with trees, and are of
+  loosely-coherent granite: many villages are in the space enclosed
+  by these ranges, but all insecure.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th November, 1867.</i>.&mdash;We came to the Kalongosi,
+  or, as the Arabs and Portuguese pronounce it, Karungwesi, about
+  60 yards wide, and flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough,
+  even now when the rainy season is not commenced, to requite
+  canoes. It is said to rise in Kumbi, or Afar, a country to the
+  south-east of our ford. Fish in great numbers are caught when
+  ascending to spawn: they are secured by weirs, nets, hooks. Large
+  strong baskets are placed in the rapids, and filled with stones,
+  when the water rises these baskets are standing-places for the
+  fishermen to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed the
+  Kalongosi we were now in Lunda, or Londa.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;We saw that the Kalongosi
+  went north till it met a large meadow on the shores of Moero,
+  and, turning westwards, it entered there. The fishermen gave us
+  the names of 39 species of fish in the Lake; they said that they
+  never cease ascending the Kalongosi, though at times they are
+  more abundant than at others: they are as follows.</p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Mond&eacute;; Mota; Lasa; Kasib&eacute;; Molob&eacute;;
+    Lopemb&eacute;; Motoya; Chipansa; Mpifu; Manda; Mpala; Moombo;
+    Mfeu; Mend&eacute;; Seus&eacute;; Kadia nkololo; Etiaka; Nkomo;
+    Lifisha; Sambamkaka; Ntondo; Sampa; Bongw&eacute;; Mabanga;
+    Kis&eacute;; Kuanya; Nkosu; Pal&eacute;; Mosungu; Litembwa;
+    Mecheber&eacute;; Koninchia; Sipa; Lomemb&eacute;; Molenga;
+    Mirong&eacute;; Nfindo; Pende.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>14th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;Being doubtful as to whether
+  we were in the right path, I sent to a village to inquire. The
+  <a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a>headman, evidently one of a
+  former Casembe school, came to us full of wrath. "What right had
+  we to come that way, seeing the usual path was to our left?" He
+  mouthed some sentences in the pompous Lunda style, but would not
+  show us the path; so we left him, and after going through a
+  forest of large trees, 4-1/2 hours south, took advantage of some
+  huts on the Kifurwa River, built by bark-cloth cutters.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;Heavy rains, but we went on,
+  and found a village, Kifurwa, surrounded by cassava fields, and
+  next day crossed the Muatoz&eacute;, 25 yards wide, and running
+  strongly towards Moero, knee deep. The River Kabukwa, seven yards
+  wide, and also knee deep, going to swell the Muatoz&eacute;.</p>
+
+  <p>We now crossed a brook, Chirongo, one yard wide and one deep;
+  but our march was all through well-grown forest, chiefly
+  gum-copal trees and bark-cloth trees. The gum-copal oozes out in
+  abundance after or during the rains, from holes a quarter of an
+  inch in diameter, made by an insect: it falls, and in time sinks
+  into the soil, a supply for future generations. The small
+  well-rounded features of the people of Nsama's country are common
+  here, as we observe in the salt-traders and villages; indeed,
+  this is the home of the Negro, and the features such as we see in
+  pictures of ancient Egyptians, as first pointed out by Mr.
+  Winwood Reade. We sleep by the river Mandapala, 12 yards wide,
+  and knee deep.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;We rest by the Kabusi, a
+  sluggish narrow rivulet. It runs into the Chungu, a quarter of a
+  mile off. The Chungu is broad, but choked with trees and aquatic
+  plants: Sapotas, Eschinomenas, Papyrus, &amp;c. The free stream
+  is 18 yards wide, and waist deep. We had to wade about 100 yards,
+  thigh and waist deep, to get to the free stream.</p>
+
+  <p>On this, the Chungu, Dr. Lacerda died; it is joined by
+  <a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a>the Mandapala, and flows a
+  united stream into Moero. The statements of the people are
+  confused, but the following is what I have gleaned from many.
+  There were some Ujiji people with the Casembe of the time. The
+  Portuguese and Ujijians began to fight, but Casembe said to them
+  and the Portuguese, "You are all my guests, why should you fight
+  and kill each other?" He then gave Lacerda ten slaves, and men to
+  live with him and work at building huts, bringing firewood,
+  water, &amp;c. He made similar presents to the Ujijians, which
+  quieted them. Lacerda was but ten days at Chungu when he died.
+  The place of his death was about 9&deg; 32', and not 8&deg; 43'
+  as in Mr. Arrowsmith's map. The feud arose from one of Lacerda's
+  people killing an Ujijian at the water: this would certainly be a
+  barrier to their movements.</p>
+
+  <p>Palm-oil trees are common west of the Chungu, but none
+  appeared east of it. The oil is eaten by the people, and is very
+  nice and sweet. This is remarkable, as the altitude above the sea
+  is 3350 feet.</p>
+
+  <p>Allah is a very common exclamation among all the people west
+  of Nsama. By advice of a guide whom we picked up at Kifurwa, we
+  sent four fathoms of calico to apprise Casembe of our coming: the
+  Arabs usually send ten fathoms; in our case it was a very
+  superfluous notice, for Casembe is said to have been telegraphed
+  to by runners at every stage of our progress after crossing the
+  Kalongosi.</p>
+
+  <p>We remain by the Chungu till Casembe sends one of his
+  counsellors to guide us to his town. It has been so perpetually
+  clouded over that we have been unable to make out our progress,
+  and the dense forest prevented us seeing Moero as we wished: rain
+  and thunder perpetually, though the rain seldom fell where we
+  were.</p>
+
+  <p>I saw pure white-headed swallows <i>(Psalidoprocne
+  albiceps)</i> skimming the surface of the Chungu as we crossed
+  it. The <a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a>soil is very rich.
+  Casembe's ground-nuts are the largest I have seen, and so is the
+  cassava. I got over a pint of palm oil for a cubit of calico.</p>
+
+  <p>A fine young man, whose father had been the Casembe before
+  this one, came to see us; he is in the background now, otherwise
+  he would have conducted us to the village: a son or heir does not
+  succeed to the chieftainship here.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st November, 1867.</i>&mdash;The River Lund&eacute; was
+  five miles from Chungu. It is six yards wide where we crossed it,
+  but larger further down; springs were oozing out of its bed: we
+  then entered on a broad plain, covered with bush, the trees being
+  all cleared off in building a village. When one Casembe dies, the
+  man who succeeds him invariably removes and builds his
+  pembw&eacute;, or court, at another place: when Dr. Lacerda died,
+  the Casembe moved to near the north end of the Mofw&eacute;.
+  There have been seven Casembes in all. The word means a
+  <i>general</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>The plain extending from the Lund&eacute; to the town of
+  Casembe is level, and studded pretty thickly with red anthills,
+  from 15 to 20 feet high. Casembe has made a broad path from his
+  town to the Lund&eacute;, about a mile-and-a-half long, and as
+  broad as a carriage-path. The chief's residence is enclosed in a
+  wall of reeds, 8 or 9 feet high, and 300 yards square, the
+  gateway is ornamented with about sixty human skulls; a shed
+  stands in the middle of the road before we come to the gate, with
+  a cannon dressed in gaudy cloths. A number of noisy fellows
+  stopped our party, and demanded tribute for the cannon; I burst
+  through them, and the rest followed without giving anything: they
+  were afraid of the English. The town is on the east bank of the
+  Lakelet Mofw&eacute;, and one mile from its northern end. Mohamad
+  bin Saleh now met us, his men firing guns of welcome; he
+  conducted us to his shed of reception, and then gave us a hut
+  till we could build one of our own. Mohamad is a <a name=
+  "Page_248" id="Page_248"></a>fine portly black Arab, with a
+  pleasant smile, and pure white beard, and has been more than ten
+  years in these parts, and lived with four Casembes: he has
+  considerable influence here, and also on Tanganyika.</p>
+
+  <p>An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogharib, who arrived seven days
+  before us with an immense number of slaves, presented a meal of
+  vermicelli, oil, and honey, also cassava meal cooked, so as to
+  resemble a sweet meat (I had not tasted honey or sugar since we
+  left Lake Nyassa, in September 1866): they had coffee too.</p>
+
+  <p>Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people
+  are confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively
+  cultivated, indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is
+  impossible to know which is town and which is country: every hut
+  has a plantation around it, in which is grown cassava, Holcus
+  sorghum, maize, beans, nuts.</p>
+
+  <p>Mohamad gives the same account of the River Luapula and Lake
+  Bemba that Jumb&eacute; did, but he adds, that the
+  Chambez&eacute;, where we crossed it, <i>is</i> the Luapula
+  before it enters Bemba or Bangweolo: on coming out of that Lake
+  it turns round and comes away to the north, as Luapula, and,
+  without touching the Mofw&eacute;, goes into Moero; then,
+  emerging thence at the north-west end it becomes Lualaba, goes
+  into Rua, forms a lake there, and afterwards goes into another
+  lake beyond Tanganyika.</p>
+
+  <p>The Lakelet Mofw&eacute; fills during the rains and spreads
+  westward, much beyond its banks. Elephants wandering in its mud
+  flats when covered are annually killed in numbers: if it were
+  connected with the Lake Moero the flood would run off.</p>
+
+  <p>Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped and
+  hands lopped off: the present chief has been often guilty of this
+  barbarity. One man has just come to us without ears or hands: he
+  tries to excite our pity making a <a name="Page_249" id=
+  "Page_249"></a>chirruping noise, by striking his cheeks with the
+  stumps of his hands.</p>
+
+  <p>A dwarf also, one Zofu, with backbone broken, comes about us:
+  he talks with an air of authority, and is present at all public
+  occurrences: the people seem to bear with him. He is a stranger
+  from a tribe in the north, and works in his garden very briskly:
+  his height is 3 feet 9 inches.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a>
+      Ch&eacute;fu amongst the Manganja. Any animal possessing
+      strength, has the terminal "fu" or "vu;" thus Njobvu, an
+      elephant; M'vu, the hippopotamus.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> The
+      natives are quick to detect a peculiarity in a man, and give
+      him a name accordingly: the conquerors of a country try to
+      forestall them by selecting one for themselves. Susi states
+      that when Tipo Tipo stood over the spoil taken from Nsama, he
+      gathered it closer together and said, "Now I am Tipo Tipo,"
+      that is, "the gatherer together of wealth." Kumba Kumba, of
+      whom we shall hear much, took his name from the number of
+      captives he gathered in his train under similar
+      circumstances; it might be translated, "the collector of
+      people."&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> It is
+      on the West Coast alone that idols are really worshipped in
+      Africa.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><a name="Page_250" id=
+  "Page_250"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Grand reception of the traveller. Casenibe and his wife.
+    Long stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwawata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Saleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>24th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;We were called to be
+  presented to Casembe in a grand reception.</p>
+
+  <p>The present Casembe has a heavy uninteresting countenance,
+  without beard or whiskers, and somewhat of the Chinese type, and
+  his eyes have an outward squint. He smiled but once during the
+  day, and that was pleasant enough, though the cropped ears and
+  lopped hands, with human skulls at the gate, made me indisposed
+  to look on anything with favour. His principal wife came with her
+  attendants, after he had departed, to look at the Englishman
+  (Moenge-r&eacute;s&eacute;). She was a fine, tall, good-featured
+  lady, with two spears in her hand; the principal men who had come
+  around made way for her, and called on me to salute: I did so;
+  but she, being forty yards off, I involuntarily beckoned her to
+  come nearer: this upset the gravity of all her attendants; all
+  burst into a laugh, and ran off.</p>
+
+  <p>Casembe's smile was elicited by the dwarf making some uncouth
+  antics before him. His executioner also came forward to look: he
+  had a broad Lunda sword on his arm, and a curious scizzor-like
+  instrument at his neck for crop<a name="Page_251" id=
+  "Page_251"></a>ping ears. On saying to him that his was nasty
+  work, he smiled, and so did many who were not sure of their ears
+  a moment: many men of respectability show that at some former
+  time they have been thus punished. Casembe sent us another large
+  basket of fire-dried fish in addition to that sent us at Chungu,
+  two baskets of flour, one of dried cassava, and a pot of pombe or
+  beer. Mohamad, who was accustomed to much more liberal Casembes,
+  thinks this one very stingy, having neither generosity nor good
+  sense; but as we cannot consume all he gives, we do not
+  complain.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th November, 1867.</i>&mdash;Casembe's chief wife passes
+  frequently to her plantation, carried by six, or more commonly by
+  twelve men in a sort of palanquin: she has European features, but
+  light-brown complexion. A number of men run before her,
+  brandishing swords and battle-axes, and one beats a hollow
+  instrument, giving warning to passengers to clear the way: she
+  has two enormous pipes ready filled for smoking. She is very
+  attentive to her agriculture; cassava is the chief product; sweet
+  potatoes, maize, sorghum, pennisetum, millet, ground-nuts,
+  cotton. The people seem more savage than any I have yet seen:
+  they strike each other barbarously from mere wantonness, but they
+  are civil enough to me.</p>
+
+  <p>Mohamad bin Saleh proposes to go to Ujiji next month. He
+  waited when he heard of our coming, in order that we might go
+  together: he has a very low opinion of the present chief. The
+  area which has served for building the chief town at different
+  times is about ten miles in diameter.</p>
+
+  <p>Mofw&eacute; is a shallow piece of water about two miles
+  broad, four or less long, full of sedgy islands, the abodes of
+  waterfowl, but some are solid enough to be cultivated. The bottom
+  is mud, though sandy at the east shore: it has no com<a name=
+  "Page_252" id="Page_252"></a>munication with the Luapula.
+  <i>(28th November, 1867.</i>) The Lund&eacute;, Chungu, and
+  Mandapala are said to join and flow into Moero. Fish are in great
+  abundance (perch). On the west side there is a grove of palm-oil
+  palms, and beyond west rises a long range of mountains of the Rua
+  country 15 or 20 miles off.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st December, 1867.</i>&mdash;An old man named
+  P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute; is the owner of the land on which
+  Casembe has built. They always keep up the traditional ownership.
+  Munongo is a brother of P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute;, and he owns
+  the country east of the Kalongosi: if any one wished to cultivate
+  land he would apply to these aboriginal chiefs for it.</p>
+
+  <p>I asked a man from Casembe to guide me to south end of Moero,
+  but he advised me not to go as it was so marshy. The Lund&eacute;
+  forms a marsh on one side, and the Luapula lets water percolate
+  through sand and mud, and so does the Robukw&eacute;, which makes
+  the path often knee deep. He said he would send men to conduct me
+  to Moero, a little further down, and added that we had got very
+  little to eat from him, and he wanted to give more. Moero's south
+  end is about 9&deg; 30' S.</p>
+
+  <p>Old P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute; is a sensible man: Mohamad
+  thinks him 150 years old. He is always on the side of liberality
+  and fairness; he says that the first Casembe was attracted to
+  Mofw&eacute; by the abundance of fish in it. He has the idea of
+  all men being derived from a single pair.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th December, 1867.</i>&mdash;It is very cloudy here; no
+  observations can be made, as it clouds over every afternoon and
+  night. <i>(8th and 11th December, 1867.</i>) Cleared off last
+  night, but intermittent fever prevented my going out.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th December, 1867.</i>&mdash;Set-in rains. A number of
+  fine young girls who live in Casembe's compound came and shook
+  hands in their way, which is to cross the right over to your
+  left, and clasp them; then give a few claps with both hands,
+  <a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a>and repeat the crossed
+  clasp: they want to tell their children that they have seen
+  me.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th December, 1867.</i>&mdash;To-day I announced to
+  Casembe our intention of going away. Two traders got the same
+  return present from him that I did, namely, one goat and some
+  fish, meal and cassava. I am always ill when not working; I spend
+  my time writing letters, to be ready when we come to Ujiji.
+  <i>(18th December, 1867.</i>) We have been here a month, and I
+  cannot get more than two lunars: I got altitudes of the meridian
+  of stars north and south soon after we came, but not lunars.
+  Casembe sent a big basket of fire-dried fish, two pots of beer,
+  and a basket of cassava, and says we may go when we choose.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th December, 1867.</i>&mdash;On going to say good-bye to
+  Casembe, he tried to be gracious, said that we had eaten but
+  little of his food; yet he allowed us to go. He sent for a man to
+  escort us; and on the <i>22nd December, 1867.</i> we went to
+  Lund&eacute; River, crossed it, and went on to sleep at the
+  Chungu, close by the place where Casembe's court stood when Dr.
+  Lacerda came, for the town was moved further west as soon as the
+  Doctor died. There are many palm-oil palms about, but no
+  tradition exists of their introduction.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd December, 1867.</i>&mdash;We crossed the Chungu. Rain
+  from above, and cold and wet to the waist below, as I do not lift
+  my shirt, because the white skin makes all stare. I saw black
+  monkeys at this spot. The Chungu is joined by the Kaleusi and the
+  Mandapala before it enters Moero. Casembe said that the
+  Lund&eacute; ran into Mofw&eacute;; others denied this, and said
+  that it formed a marsh with numbers of pools in long grass; but
+  it may ooze into Mofw&eacute; thus. Casembe sent three men to
+  guide me to Moero.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th December, 1867.</i>&mdash;Drizzly rain, and we are in
+  a miserable spot by the Kabusi, in a bed of brakens four feet
+  high. The guides won't stir in this weather. I gave beads to buy
+  what could be got for Christmas.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a><i>25th December,
+  1867.</i>&mdash;Drizzly showers every now and then; soil, black
+  mud.</p>
+
+  <p>About ten men came as guides and as a convoy of honour to
+  Mohamad.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th December, 1867.</i>&mdash;In two hours we crossed
+  Mandapala, now waist deep. This part was well stocked with people
+  five years ago, but Casembe's severity in cropping ears and other
+  mutilations, selling the children for slight offences, &amp;c.,
+  made them all flee to neighbouring tribes; and now, if he sent
+  all over the country, he could not collect a thousand men.</p>
+
+  <p>[Livingstone refers (on the 15th Dec.) to some writings he was
+  engaged upon, and we find one of them here in his journal which
+  takes the form of a despatch to Lord Clarendon, with a note
+  attached to the effect that it was not copied or sent, as he had
+  no paper for the purpose. It affords an epitomised description of
+  his late travels, and the stay at Casembe, and is inserted here
+  in the place of many notes written daily, but which only repeat
+  the same events and observations in a less readable form. It is
+  especially valuable at this stage of his journal, because it
+  treats on the whole geography of the district between Lakes
+  Nyassa and Moero, with a broad handling which is impossible in
+  the mere jottings of a diary.]</p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Town Of Casembe, <i>10th December, 1867.</i>.</p>
+
+    <p>Lat. 9&deg; 37' 13" South; long. 28&deg; East.</p>
+
+    <p>The Right Honourable the Earl of Clarendon.</p>
+
+    <p>My Lord,&mdash;The first opportunity I had of sending a
+    letter to the coast occurred in February last, when I was at a
+    village called Molemba (lat. 10&deg; 14' S.; long. 31&deg; 46'
+    E.), in the country named Lobemba. Lobisa, Lobemba, Ulungu
+    <a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a>and Itawa-Lunda are the
+    names by which the districts of an elevated region between the
+    parallels 11&deg; and 8&deg; south, and meridians
+    28&deg;-33&deg; long. east, are known. The altitude of this
+    upland is from 4000 to 6000 feet above the level of the sea. It
+    is generally covered with forest, well watered by numerous
+    rivulets, and comparatively cold. The soil is very rich, and
+    yields abundantly wherever cultivated. This is the watershed
+    between the Loangwa, a tributary of the Zambesi, and several
+    rivers which flow towards the north. Of the latter, the most
+    remarkable is the Chambez&eacute;, for it assists in the
+    formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times in
+    the five or six hundred miles of its course.</p>
+
+    <p>On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded
+    northwards, perceived by the barometers and the courses of
+    numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction.
+    A friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that I
+    wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his country, gave
+    his son with a large escort to guide me thither; and on the 2nd
+    April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in
+    which the Lake reposes. The descent is 2000 feet, and still the
+    surface of the water is upwards of 2500 feet above the level of
+    the sea. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes
+    the rocks run the whole 2000 feet sheer down to the water.
+    Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the
+    cliffs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered
+    with well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks
+    protrude. The scenery is extremely beautiful. The "Aeasy," a
+    stream of 15 yards broad and thigh deep, came down alongside
+    our precipitous path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet
+    at a time. These, with the bright red of the clay schists among
+    the greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause
+    and remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants
+    abound on the steep <a name="Page_256" id=
+    "Page_256"></a>slopes; and hippopotami, crocodiles, and fish
+    swarm in the water. Gnus are here unknown, and these animals
+    may live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The
+    elephants sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap
+    their big ears just outside the village stockades. One got out
+    of our way on to a comparatively level spot, and then stood and
+    roared at us. Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of
+    man.</p>
+
+    <p>The first village we came to on the banks of the Lake had a
+    grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm tree was
+    not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the
+    fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to carry
+    it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast.
+    Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate
+    the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. The Lake is not large,
+    from 15 to 20 miles broad, and from 30 to 40 long. It is the
+    receptacle of four considerable streams, and sends out an arm
+    two miles broad to the N.N.W., it is said to Tanganyika, and it
+    may be a branch of that Lake. One of the streams, the Lonzua,
+    drives a smooth body of water into the Lake fifty yards broad
+    and ten fathoms deep, bearing on its surface duckweed and
+    grassy islands. I could see the mouths of other streams, but
+    got near enough to measure the Lofu only; and at a ford fifty
+    miles from the confluence it was 100 yards wide and waist deep
+    in the dry season.</p>
+
+    <p>We remained six weeks on the shores of the Lake, trying to
+    pick up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into
+    Ulungu after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an
+    Englishman had preceded them, naturally inquired where I was.
+    But our friends, the B&auml;ulungu, suspecting that mischief
+    was meant, stoutly denied that they had ever seen anything of
+    the sort; and then became very urgent that I should go on to
+    one of the inhabited islands for safety. I regret that I
+    suspected them of intending to <a name="Page_257" id=
+    "Page_257"></a>make me a prisoner there, which they could
+    easily have done by removing the canoes; but when the villagers
+    who deceived the Arabs told me afterwards with an air of
+    triumph how nicely they had managed, I saw that they had only
+    been anxious for my safety. On three occasions the same
+    friendly disposition was shown; and when we went round the west
+    side of the Lake in order to examine the arm or branch above
+    referred to, the headman at the confluence of the Lofu
+    protested so strongly against my going&mdash;the Arabs had been
+    fighting, and I might be mistaken for an Arab, and
+    killed&mdash;that I felt half-inclined to believe him. Two Arab
+    slaves entered the village the same afternoon in search of
+    ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered our
+    course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by
+    the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that the
+    head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles further. They had
+    found ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till
+    attacked by a chief named, Nsama, whom they beat in his own
+    stockade. They were now at a loss which way to turn. On
+    reaching Chitimba's village (lat. 8&deg; 57' 55" S.; long.
+    30&deg; 20' E.), I found them about 600 in all; and, on
+    presenting a letter I had from the Sultan of Zanzibar, was
+    immediately supplied with provisions, beads, and cloth. They
+    approved of my plan of passing to the south of Nsama's country,
+    but advised waiting till the effects of punishment, which the
+    B&auml;ulungu had resolved to inflict on Nsama for breach of
+    public law, were known. It had always been understood that
+    whoever brought goods into the country was to be protected; and
+    two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son of Kasonso,
+    our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was anticipated
+    that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would leave me a
+    free passage through his country; if to the south, I might be
+    saved from walking into his hands. But it turned out that Nsama
+    was anxious for peace. He had <a name="Page_258" id=
+    "Page_258"></a>sent two men with elephants' tusks to begin a
+    negotiation; but treachery was suspected, and they were shot
+    down. Another effort was made with ten goats, and repulsed.
+    This was much to the regret of the head Arabs. It was fortunate
+    for me that the Arab goods were not all sold, for Lake Moero
+    lay in Nsama's country, and without peace no ivory could be
+    bought, nor could I reach the Lake. The peace-making between
+    the people and Arabs was, however, a tedious process, occupying
+    three and a half months&mdash;drinking each other's blood.
+    This, as I saw it west of this in 1854, is not more horrible
+    than the thirtieth dilution of deadly night-shade or strychnine
+    is in homoeopathy. I thought that had I been an Arab I could
+    easily swallow that, but not the next means of cementing the
+    peace&mdash;marrying a black wife. Nsama's daughter was the
+    bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came riding
+    pickaback on a man's shoulders: this is the most dignified
+    conveyance that chiefs and their families can command. She had
+    ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of provisions, and
+    all having the same beautiful features as herself. She was
+    taken by the principal Arab, but soon showed that she preferred
+    her father to her husband, for seeing preparations made to send
+    off to purchase ivory, she suspected that her father was to be
+    attacked, and made her escape. I then, visited Nsama, and, as
+    he objected to many people coming near him, took only three of
+    my eight attendants. His people were very much afraid of
+    fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see if I had any
+    concealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with head and face
+    like those sculptured on the Assyrian monuments. He has been a
+    great conqueror in his time, and with bows and arrows was
+    invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native traders
+    from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from his
+    own stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country. He
+    was much taken with my hair and woollen <a name="Page_259" id=
+    "Page_259"></a>clothing; but his people, heedless of his
+    scolding, so pressed upon us that we could not converse, and,
+    after promising to send for me to talk during the night, our
+    interview ended. He promised guides to Moero, and sent us more
+    provisions than we could carry; but showed so much distrust,
+    that after all we went without his assistance.</p>
+
+    <p>Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the men
+    have as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of
+    Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and feet.
+    None of the West-coast ugliness, from which most of our ideas
+    of the Negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous
+    jaws nor lark-heels offended the sight. My observations
+    deepened the impression first obtained from the remarks of
+    Winwood Reade, that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient
+    Egyptian, and not in the ungainly forms; which grow up in the
+    unhealthy swamps of the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that
+    this upland forest region is the true home of the Negro. The
+    women excited the admiration of the Arabs. They have fine,
+    small, well-formed features: their great defect is one of
+    fashion, which does not extend to the next tribe; they file
+    their teeth to points, the hussies, and that makes their smile
+    like that of the crocodile.</p>
+
+    <p>Nsama's country is called Itawa, and his principal town is
+    in lat. 8&deg; 55' S., and long. 29&deg; 21' E. From the large
+    population he had under him, Itawa is in many parts well
+    cleared of trees for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu,
+    being generally about 3000 feet above the sea. Long lines of
+    tree-covered hills raised some 600 or 700 feet above these
+    valleys of denudation, prevent the scenery from being
+    monotonous. Large game is abundant. Elephants, buffaloes, and
+    zebras grazed in large numbers on the long sloping, banks of a
+    river called Chis&eacute;ra, a mile and a half broad. In going
+    north we crossed this river, or rather marsh, which is full of
+    papyrus plants and reeds. Our ford was an <a name="Page_260"
+    id="Page_260"></a>elephant's path; and the roots of the
+    papyrus, though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore
+    to feet usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink
+    and flounder into holes chest deep. The Chis&eacute;ra forms a
+    larger marsh west of this, and it gives off its water to the
+    Kalongosi, a feeder of Lake Moero.</p>
+
+    <p>The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory;
+    but their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the
+    tribes which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had
+    been routed by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before them
+    but Casembe; and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people
+    not to allow the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country.
+    They did not attempt to force their way, but after sending
+    friendly messages and presents to different chiefs, when these
+    were not cordially received, turned off in some other
+    direction, and at last, despairing of more ivory, turned
+    homewards. From first to last they were extremely kind to me,
+    and showed all due respect to the Sultan's letter. I am glad
+    that I was witness to their mode of trading in ivory and
+    slaves. It formed a complete contrast to the atrocious dealings
+    of the Kilwa traders, who are supposed to be, but are not, the
+    subjects of the same Sultan. If one wished to depict the
+    slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather least
+    objectionable, form, he would accompany these gentlemen
+    subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he would describe the
+    land traffic in its most disgusting phases he would follow the
+    Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or the Portuguese
+    half-castes from Tette to the River Shir&eacute;.</p>
+
+    <p>Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving
+    westwards, our small party reached the north end of Moero on
+    the 8th November last. There the Lake is a goodly piece of
+    water twelve or more miles broad, and flanked on the east and
+    west by ranges of lofty tree-covered mountains. <a name=
+    "Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>The range on the west is the
+    highest, and is part of the country called Rua-Moero; it gives
+    off a river at its north-west end called Lualaba, and receives
+    the River Kalongosi (pronounced by the Arabs Karungwesi) on the
+    east near its middle, and the rivers Luapula and Rovukw&eacute;
+    at its southern extremity. The point of most interest in Lake
+    Moero is that it forms one of a chain of lakes, connected by a
+    river some 500 miles in length. First of all the
+    Chambez&eacute; rises in the country of Mambw&eacute;, N.E. of
+    Molemba. It then flows south-west and west till it reaches lat.
+    11&deg; S., and long. 29&deg; E., where it forms Lake Bemba or
+    Bangweolo, emerging thence it assumes the new name Luapula, and
+    comes down here to fall into Moero. On going out of this Lake
+    it is known by the name Lualaba, as it flows N.W. in Rua to
+    form another Lake with many islands called Ureng&eacute; or
+    Uleng&eacute;. Beyond this, information is not positive as to
+    whether it enters Tanganyika or another Lake beyond that. When
+    I crossed the Chambez&eacute;, the similarity of names led me
+    to imagine that this was a branch of the Zambesi. The natives
+    said, "No. This goes south-west, and forms a very large water
+    there." But I had become prepossessed with the idea that Lake
+    Liemba was that Bemba of which I had heard in 1863, and we had
+    been so starved in the south that I gladly set my face north.
+    The river-like prolongation of Liemba might go to Moero, and
+    where I could not follow the arm of Liemba. Then I worked my
+    way to this Lake. Since coming to Casembe's the testimony of
+    natives and Arabs has been so united and consistent, that I am
+    but ten days from Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo, that I cannot doubt
+    its accuracy. I am so tired of exploration without a word from
+    home or anywhere else for two years, that I must go to Ujiji on
+    Tanganyika for letters before doing anything else. The banks
+    and country adjacent to Lake Bangweolo are reported to be now
+    very muddy and very unhealthy. I have no medicine. The
+    inhabitants suffer greatly from <a name="Page_262" id=
+    "Page_262"></a>swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and
+    elephantiasis, and this is the rainy season and very unsafe for
+    me.</p>
+
+    <p>When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that
+    it was thought well to ascertain the length of the Lake, and
+    see Casembe too. We came up between the double range that
+    flanks the east of the Lake; but mountains and plains are so
+    covered with well-grown forest that we could seldom see it. We
+    reached Casembe's town on the 28th November. It stands near the
+    north end of the Lakelet Mofw&eacute;; this is from one to
+    three miles broad, and some six or seven long: it is full of
+    sedgy islands, and abounds in fish. The country is quite level,
+    but fifteen or twenty miles west of Mofw&eacute; we see a long
+    range of the mountains of Rua. Between this range and
+    Mofw&eacute; the Luapula flows past into Moero, the Lake called
+    Moero okata = the great Moero, being about fifty miles long.
+    The town of Casembe covers a mile square of cassava
+    plantations, the huts being dotted over that space. Some have
+    square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been made at
+    arrangement: it might be called a rural village rather than a
+    town. No estimate could be formed by counting the huts, they
+    were so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava; but my
+    impression from other collections of huts was that the
+    population was under a thousand souls. The court or compound of
+    Casembe&mdash;some would call it a palace&mdash;is a square
+    enclosure of 300 yards by 200 yards. It is surrounded by a
+    hedge of high reeds. Inside, where Casembe honoured me with a
+    grand reception, stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score
+    of small huts for domestics. The Queen's hut stands behind that
+    of the chief, with a number of small huts also. Most of the
+    enclosed space is covered with a plantation of cassava,
+    <i>Curcus purgaris</i>, and cotton. Casembe sat before his hut
+    on a equate seat placed on lion and leopard skins. He was
+    clothed in a coarse blue and white Manchester print edged
+    <a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a>with red baize, and
+    arranged in large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on
+    wrong side foremost. His arms, legs and head were covered with
+    sleeves, leggings and cap made of various coloured beads in
+    neat patterns: a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap.
+    Each of his headmen came forward, shaded by a huge, ill-made
+    umbrella, and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to
+    Casembe, and sat down on his right and left: various bands of
+    musicians did the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and
+    an old counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as
+    full an account as he had been able to gather during our stay
+    of the English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My
+    having passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe, and visited
+    chiefs of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most
+    attention. He then assured me that I was welcome to his
+    country, to go where I liked, and do what I chose. We then went
+    (two boys carrying his train behind him) to an inner apartment,
+    where the articles of my present were exhibited in detail. He
+    had examined them privately before, and we knew that he was
+    satisfied. They consisted of eight yards of orange-coloured
+    serge, a large striped tablecloth; another large cloth made at
+    Manchester in imitation of West Coast native manufacture, which
+    never fails to excite the admiration of Arabs and natives, and
+    a large richly gilded comb for the back hair, such as ladies
+    wore fifty years ago: this was given to me by a friend at
+    Liverpool, and as Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair
+    into large knobs behind, I was sure that this article would
+    tickle the fancy. Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again
+    bade me welcome.</p>
+
+    <p>I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from
+    selling his people as slaves. He listened awhile, then broke
+    off into a tirade on the greatness of his country, his power
+    and dominion, which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been here
+    <a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a>for ten years, turned into
+    ridicule, and made the audience laugh by telling how other
+    Lunda chiefs had given me oxen and sheep, while Casembe had
+    only a poor little goat and some fish to bestow. He insisted
+    also that there were but two sovereigns in the world, the
+    Sultan of Zanzibar and Victoria. When we went on a third
+    occasion to bid Casembe farewell, he was much less distant, and
+    gave me the impression that I could soon become friends with
+    him; but he has an ungainly look, and an outward squint in each
+    eye. A number of human skulls adorned the entrance to his
+    courtyard; and great numbers of his principal men having their
+    ears cropped, and some with their hands lopped off, showed his
+    barbarous way of making his ministers attentive and honest. I
+    could not avoid indulging a prejudice against him.</p>
+
+    <p>The Portuguese visited Casembe long ago; but as each new
+    Casembe builds a new town, it is not easy to fix on the exact
+    spot to which strangers came. The last seven Casembes have had
+    their towns within seven miles of the present one. Dr. Lacerda,
+    Governor of Tette, on the Zambesi, was the only visitor of
+    scientific attainments, and he died at the rivulet called
+    Chungu, three or four miles from this. The spot is called
+    Nshinda, or Inchinda, which the Portuguese wrote Lucenda or
+    Ucenda. The latitude given is nearly fifty miles wrong, but the
+    natives say that he lived only ten days after his arrival, and
+    if, as is probable, his mind was clouded with fever when he
+    last observed, those who have experienced what that is will
+    readily excuse any mistake he may have made. His object was to
+    accomplish a much-desired project of the Portuguese to have an
+    overland communication between their eastern and western
+    possessions. This was never made by any of the Portuguese
+    nation; but two black traders succeeded partially with a part
+    of the distance, crossing once from Cassang&eacute;, in Angola,
+    to Tette on the Zambesi, and returning with a <a name=
+    "Page_265" id="Page_265"></a>letter from the Governor of
+    Mosambique. It is remarkable that this journey, which was less
+    by a thousand miles than from sea to sea and back again, should
+    have for ever quenched all white Portuguese aspirations for an
+    overland route.</p>
+
+    <p>The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to
+    have varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first
+    visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 20,000
+    trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed
+    twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of human
+    sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present Casembe
+    could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When he
+    usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled;
+    but he was so severe in his punishments&mdash;cropping the
+    ears, lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling the
+    children for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually
+    dispersed themselves in the neighbouring countries beyond his
+    power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured in
+    parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The
+    present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed
+    elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of
+    the ivory with his subordinates. The elephant hunters have
+    either left him or neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to
+    sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major
+    Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to
+    have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other
+    of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much
+    by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that
+    Casembe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west of
+    this the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into
+    large bars shaped like the capital letter I. They may be met
+    with of from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs., weight all over the country,
+    and the inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and
+    leglets. Gold is <a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a>also
+    found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent to the Sultan
+    of Zanzibar.</p>
+
+    <p>As we come down from the watershed towards Tanganyika we
+    enter an area of the earth's surface still disturbed by
+    internal igneous action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama
+    is often used to boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are by no
+    means rare. We experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's
+    village, and they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if
+    afloat, and as huts would not fall there was no sense of
+    danger; some of them that happened at night set the fowls a
+    cackling. The most remarkable effect of this one was that it
+    changed the rates of the chronometers; no rain fell after it.
+    No one had access to the chronometers but myself, and, as I
+    never heard of this effect before, I may mention that one which
+    lost with great regularity 1.5 sec. daily, lost 15 sec.;
+    another; whose rate since leaving the coast was 15 sec., lost
+    40 sec.; and a third, which gained 6 sec. daily, stopped
+    altogether. Some of Nsama's people ascribed the earthquakes to
+    the hot fountain, because it showed unusual commotion on these
+    occasions; another hot fountain exists near Tanganyika than
+    Nsama's, and we passed one on the shores of Moero.</p>
+
+    <p>We could not understand why the natives called Moero much
+    larger than Tanganyika till we saw both. The greater Lake lies
+    in a comparatively narrow trough, with highland on each side,
+    which is always visible; but when we look at Moero, to the
+    south of the mountains of Rua on the west, we have nothing but
+    an apparently boundless sea horizon. The Luapula and
+    Rovukw&eacute; form a marsh at the southern extremity, and
+    Casembe dissuaded me from entering it, but sent a man to guide
+    me to different points of Moero further down. From the heights
+    at which the southern portions were seen, it must be from forty
+    to sixty miles broad. From the south end of the mountains of
+    Rua (9&deg; 4' south lat.) it is thirty-three miles broad. No
+    native <a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a>ever attempts to
+    cross it even there. Its fisheries are of great value to the
+    inhabitants, and the produce is carried to great distances.</p>
+
+    <p>Among the vegetable products of this region, that which
+    interested me most was a sort of potato. It does not belong to
+    the solanaceous, but to the papilionaceous or pea family, and
+    its flowers have a delightful fragrance. It is easily
+    propagated by small cuttings of the root or stalk. The tuber is
+    oblong, like our kidney potato, and when boiled tastes exactly
+    like our common potato. When unripe it has a slight degree of
+    bitterness, and it is believed to be wholesome; a piece of the
+    root eaten raw is a good remedy in nausea. It is met with on
+    the uplands alone, and seems incapable of bearing much heat,
+    though I kept some of the roots without earth in a box, which
+    was carried in the sun almost daily for six months, without
+    destroying their vegetative power.</p>
+
+    <p>It is remarkable that in all the central regions of Africa
+    visited, the cotton is that known as the Pernambuco variety. It
+    has a long strong staple, seeds clustered together, and
+    adherent to each other. The bushes eight or ten feet high have
+    woody stems, and the people make strong striped black and white
+    shawls of the cotton.</p>
+
+    <p>It was pleasant to meet the palm-oil palm (<i>Elais
+    Guineaensis</i>) at Casembe's, which is over 3000 feet above
+    the level of the sea. The oil is sold cheap, but no tradition
+    exists of its introduction into the country.</p>
+
+    <p>I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet
+    passed over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of
+    the whole watershed of this region, and I regret that I cannot
+    recommend any of the published maps I have seen as giving even
+    a tolerable idea of the country. One bold constructor of maps
+    has tacked on 200 miles to the north-west end of Lake Nyassa, a
+    feat which no traveller has ever ventured to imitate. Another
+    has placed a river in the <a name="Page_268" id=
+    "Page_268"></a>same quarter running 3000 or 4000 feet up hill,
+    and named it the "NEW ZAMBESI," because I suppose the old
+    Zambesi runs down hill. I have walked over both these mental
+    abortions, and did not know that I was walking on water till I
+    saw them in the maps.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>[The despatch breaks off at this point. The year concludes
+  with health impaired. As time goes on we shall see how ominous
+  the conviction was which made him dread the swamps of
+  Bangweolo.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>28-31st December, 1867.</i>&mdash;We came on to the rivulet
+  Chirongo, and then to the Kabukwa, where I was taken ill. Heavy
+  rains kept the convoy back. I have had nothing but
+  coarsely-ground sorghum meal for some time back, and am weak; I
+  used to be the first in the line of march, and am now the last;
+  Mohamad presented a meal of finely-ground porridge and a fowl,
+  and I immediately felt the difference, though I was not grumbling
+  at my coarse dishes. It is well that I did not go to Bangweolo
+  Lake, for it is now very unhealthy to the natives, and I fear
+  that without medicine continual wettings by fording rivulets
+  might have knocked me up altogether. As I have mentioned, the
+  people suffer greatly from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire
+  neck and Elephantiasis scroti.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st January, 1868.</i>&mdash;Almighty Father, forgive the
+  sins of the past year for Thy Son's sake. Help me to be more
+  profitable during this year. If I am to die this year prepare me
+  for it.</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p>I bought five hoes at two or three yards of calico each: they
+  are 13-1/2 inches by 6-1/2 inches; many are made in Casembe's
+  country, and this is the last place we can find them: when we
+  come into Buir&eacute; we can purchase a good goat for one; one
+  of my goats died and the other dried up. <a name="Page_269" id=
+  "Page_269"></a>I long for others, for milk is the most
+  strengthening food I can get.</p>
+
+  <p>My guide to Moero came to-day, and I visited the Lake several
+  times, so as to get a good idea of its size. The first fifteen
+  miles in the north are from twelve or more to thirty-three miles
+  broad. The great mass of the Rua Mountains confines it. Thus in a
+  clear day a lower range is seen continued from the high point of
+  the first mass away to the west south-west, this ends, and sea
+  horizon is alone visible away to the south and west; from the
+  height we viewed it at, the width must be over forty, perhaps
+  sixty miles. A large island, called Kirwa,<a name=
+  "FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> is situated between
+  the Mandapala and Kabukwa Rivers, but nearest to the other shore.
+  The natives never attempt to cross any part of the Lake south of
+  this Kirwa. Land could not be seen with a good glass on the
+  clearest day we had. I can understand why the natives pronounced
+  Moero to be larger than Tanganyika: in the last named they see
+  the land always on both sides; it is like a vast trough flanked
+  with highlands, but at Moero nothing but sea horizon can be seen
+  when one looks south-west of the Rua Mountains.</p>
+
+  <p>At the Kalongosi meadow one of Mohamad's men shot a buffalo,
+  and he gave me a leg of the good beefy flesh. Our course was
+  slow, caused partly by rains, and partly by waiting for the
+  convoy. The people at Kalongosi were afraid to ferry us or any of
+  his people in the convoy out of Casembe's country; but at last we
+  gave a good fee, and their scruples yielded: they were influenced
+  also by seeing other villagers ready to undertake the job; the
+  latter nearly fought over us on seeing that their neighbours got
+  all the fare.</p>
+
+  <p>We then came along the Lake, and close to its shores. <a name=
+  "Page_270" id="Page_270"></a>The moisture caused a profusion of
+  gingers, ferns, and tropical forest: buffaloes, zebras and
+  elephants are numerous, and the villagers at Chukosi's, where we
+  slept, warned us against lions and leopards.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;Sunday at Karembw&eacute;'s
+  village. The mountains east of him are called Makunga. We went
+  yesterday to the shore, and by protraction Rua point was distant
+  thirty-three miles. Karembw&eacute; sent for us, to have an
+  audience; he is a large man with a gruff voice, but liked by his
+  people and by strangers. I gave him a cloth, and he gave me a
+  goat. The enthusiasm with which I held on to visit Moero had
+  communicated itself to Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alle, for they
+  followed me up to this place to see the Lake, and remained five
+  days while we were at Casembe's. Other Arabs, or rather Suahelis,
+  must have seen it, but never mentioned it as anything worth
+  looking at; and it was only when all hope of ivory was gone that
+  these two headmen found time to come. There is a large population
+  here.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;Heavy rains. Karemb&eacute;
+  mentioned a natural curiosity as likely to interest me: a little
+  rivulet, Chipamba, goes some distance underground, but is
+  uninteresting.</p>
+
+  <p>Next day we crossed the Vuna, a strong torrent, which, has a
+  hot fountain close by the ford, in which maize and cassava may be
+  boiled. A large one in Nsama's country is used in the same way,
+  maize and cassava being tied to a string and thrown in to be
+  cooked: some natives believe that earthquakes are connected with
+  its violent ebullitions. We crossed the Kat&eacute;tt&eacute;,
+  another strong torrent, before reaching the north end of Moero,
+  where we slept in some travellers' huts.</p>
+
+  <p>Leaving the Lake, and going north, we soon got on to a plain
+  flooded by the Luao. We had to wade through very adhesive black
+  mud, generally ankle deep, and having <a name="Page_271" id=
+  "Page_271"></a>many holes in it much deeper: we had four hours of
+  this, and then came to the ford of the Luao itself. We waded up a
+  branch of it waist deep for at least a quarter of a mile, then
+  crossed a narrow part by means of a rude bridge of branches and
+  trees, of about forty yards width. The Luao, in spreading over
+  the plains, confers benefits on the inhabitants, though I could
+  not help concluding it imparts disease too, for the black mud in
+  places smells horribly. Great numbers of Siluridae, chiefly
+  <i>Clarias Capensis</i>, often three feet in length, spread over
+  the flooded portions of the country, eating the young of other
+  fishes, and insects, lizards, and worms, killed by the waters.
+  The people make weirs for them, and as the waters retire kill
+  large numbers, which they use as a relish to their farinaceous
+  food.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;After sleeping near the Luao
+  we went on towards the village, in which Mohamad's son lives. It
+  is on the Kakoma Eiver, and is called Kabwabwata, the village of
+  Mubao. In many of the villages the people shut their stockades as
+  soon as we appear, and stand bows and arrows in hand till we have
+  passed: the reason seems to be that the slaves when out of sight
+  of their masters carry things with a high hand, demanding food
+  and other things as if they had power and authority. One slave
+  stole two tobacco pipes yesterday in passing through a village;
+  the villagers complained to me when I came up, and I waited till
+  Mohamad came and told him; we then went forward, the men keeping
+  close to me till we got the slave and the pipes. They stole
+  cassava as we went along, but this could scarcely be prevented.
+  They laid hold of a plant an inch-and-a-half thick, and tore it
+  out of the soft soil with its five or six roots as large as our
+  largest carrots, stowed the roots away in their loads, and went
+  on eating them; but the stalk thrown among those still growing
+  shows the theft. The raw roots are agreeable and nutritious. No
+  great harm <a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a>is done by this,
+  for the gardens are so large, but it inspires distrust in the
+  inhabitants, and makes it dangerous for Arabs to travel not fully
+  manned and armed.</p>
+
+  <p>On reaching the village Kabwabwata a great demonstration was
+  made by Mohamad's Arab dependants and Wanyamwesi: the women had
+  their faces all smeared with pipeclay, and lullilooed with all
+  their might. When we came among the huts, they cast handfuls of
+  soil on their heads, while the men fired off their guns as fast
+  as they could load them. Those connected with Mohamad ran and
+  kissed his hands, and fired, till the sound of shouting,
+  lullilooing, clapping of hands, and shooting was deafening:
+  Mohamad was quite overcome by this demonstration, and it was long
+  before he could still them.</p>
+
+  <p>On the way to this village from the south we observed an
+  extensive breadth of land, under ground-nuts which are made into
+  oil: a large jar of this is sold for a hoe. The ground-nuts were
+  now in flower, and green maize ready to be eaten. People all busy
+  planting, transplanting, or weeding; they plant cassava on mounds
+  prepared for it, on which they have sown beans, sorghum, maize,
+  pumpkins: these ripen, and leave the cassava a free soil. The
+  sorghum or dura is sown thickly, and when about a foot
+  high&mdash;if the owner has been able to prepare the soil
+  elsewhere&mdash;it is transplanted, a portion of the leaves being
+  cut off to prevent too great evaporation and the death of the
+  plant.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;The Wanyamwesi and people of
+  Garaganza say that we have thirteen days' march from this to the
+  Tanganyika Lake. It is often muddy, and many rivulets are to be
+  crossed.</p>
+
+  <p>Mohamad is naturally anxious to stay a little while with his
+  son, for it is a wet season, and the mud is disagreeable to
+  travel over: it is said to be worse near Ujiji: he cooks small
+  delicacies for me with the little he has, and tries to make me
+  comfortable. Vinegar is made from bananas, and <a name="Page_273"
+  id="Page_273"></a>oil from ground-nuts. I am anxious to be off,
+  but chiefly to get news.</p>
+
+  <p>I find that many Unyamwesi people are waiting here, on account
+  of the great quantity of rainwater in front: it would be
+  difficult, they say, to get canoes on Tanganyika, as the waves
+  are now large.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;Two of Mohamad Bogharib's
+  people came from Casembe's to trade here, and a body of Syde bin
+  Habib's people also from Garaganza, near Kaz&eacute;, they report
+  the flooded lands on this side of Lake Tanganyika as waist and
+  chest deep. Bin Habib, being at Katanga, will not stir till the
+  rains are over, and I fear we are storm-stayed till then too. The
+  feeders of the Marungu are not fordable just now, and no canoes
+  are to be had.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th and 27th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;I am ill with fever,
+  as I always am when stationary.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;Better, and thankful to Him
+  of the Greatest Name. We must remain; it is a dry spot, and
+  favourable for ground-nuts. <i>Hooping-cough</i> here.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th January, 1868.</i>&mdash;The earth cooled by the rain
+  last night sets all to transplanting dura or sorghum; they cut
+  the leaves till only about eighteen inches of them are left, but
+  it grows all the better for the change of place.</p>
+
+  <p>Mohamad believes that Tanganyika flows through Rusizi to
+  Lohind&eacute;. (Chuambo.)</p>
+
+  <p>Seyd Seyd is said to have been the first Arab Sultan who
+  traded, and Seyed Majid follows the example of his father, and
+  has many Arab traders in his employment. He lately sent eight
+  buffaloes to Mt&eacute;za, king of Uganda, son of Sunna, by way
+  of increasing his trade, but if is not likely that he will give
+  up the lucrative trade in ivory and slaves.</p>
+
+  <p>Susi bought a hoe with a little gunpowder, then a cylinder of
+  dura, three feet long by two feet in diameter, for the hoe: it is
+  at least one hundredweight.</p>
+
+  <p>Stone underground houses are reported in Rua, but whether
+  <a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a>natural or artificial
+  Mohamad could not say. If a present is made to the Rua chiefs
+  they never obstruct passengers.</p>
+
+  <p>Chikosi, at whose village we passed a night, near Kalongosi,
+  and Chiputa are both dead.</p>
+
+  <p>The Mofw&eacute; fills during the greater rains, and spreads
+  over a large district; elephants then wander in its marshes, and
+  are killed easily by people in canoes: this happens every year,
+  and Mohamad Bogharib waits now for this ivory.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th to 21st February, 1868.</i>&mdash;On inquiring of men
+  who lave seen the underground houses in Rua, I find that they are
+  very extensive, ranging along mountain sides for twenty miles,
+  and in one part a rivulet flows inside. In some cases the
+  doorways are level with the country adjacent: in others, ladders
+  are used to climb up to them; inside they are said to be very
+  large, and not the work of men, but of God. The people have
+  plenty of fowls, and they too obtain shelter in these Troglodyte
+  habitations.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd February, 1868.</i>&mdash;I was visited by an
+  important chief called Chap&eacute;, who said that he wanted to
+  make friends with the English. He, Chisapi, Sama, Muabo,
+  Karembw&eacute;, are of one tribe or family, the Oanza: he did
+  not beg anything, and promised to send me a goat.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> Kirwa
+      and its various corruptions, such as Shirwa, Chirua, and
+      Kiroa, perpetually recur in Africa, and would almost seem to
+      stand for "the island."&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><a name="Page_275"
+  id="Page_275"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long
+    imprisonment. Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning
+    dreams. News of Lake Chowamb&eacute;. Life of the Arab slavers.
+    The Katanga gold supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains.
+    Syde bin Habib. Birthday 19th March, 1868. Hostility of
+    Mpw&eacute;to. Contemplates visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources.
+    Men desert. The shores of Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Beturn to
+    Casembe's. Obstructiveness of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of
+    Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major Monteiro. The line of Casembe's.
+    Casembe explains the connection of the Lakes and the Luapula.
+    Queen Mo&auml;ri. Arab sacrifice. Kapika gets rid of his
+    wife.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>24th February, 1868.</i>&mdash;Some slaves who came with
+  Mohamad Bogharib's agent, abused my men this morning, as bringing
+  unclean meat into the village to sell, though it had been killed
+  by a man of the Wanyamwesi. They called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!"
+  and Susi, roused by this, launched forth with a stick; the others
+  joined in the row, and the offenders were beat off, but they went
+  and collected all their number and renewed the assault. One threw
+  a heavy block of wood and struck Simon on the head, making him
+  quite insensible and convulsed for some time. He has three wounds
+  on the head, which may prove serious. This is the first outburst
+  of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and by those who know so little
+  of the creed that it is questionable if one of them can repeat
+  the formula: "La illaha illa lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu, a
+  leihi oa Salama." Simon recovered, but Gallahs are in general not
+  strong.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th February, 1868.</i>&mdash;Mohamad called on me this
+  morning to apologise for the outrage of yesterday, but no one was
+  <a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>to blame except the slaves,
+  and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were cautioned for
+  the future. It seems, plain that if they do not wish to buy the
+  unclean meat they can let it alone,&mdash;no harm is done. The
+  Wanyamwesi kill for all, and some Mohamadans say that they won't
+  eat of it, but their wives and people do eat it privately.</p>
+
+  <p>I asked Mohamad to-day if it were true that he was a prisoner
+  at Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some Garaganza people, now
+  at Katanga, fought with Casembe, and Mohamad was suspected of
+  being connected with them. Casembe attacked his people, and
+  during the turmoil a hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from
+  him, and many of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner
+  till sixty of his people were either killed or died, among these
+  Mohamad's eldest son: he was thus reduced to poverty. He gave
+  something to Casembe to allow him to depart, and I suspect that
+  my Sultan's letter had considerable influence in inducing Casembe
+  to accede to his request, for he repeated again and again in my
+  hearing that he must pay respect to my letter, and see me safe at
+  least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad says that he will not return to
+  Casembe again, but will begin to trade with some other chief: it
+  is rather hard for a man at his age to begin <i>de novo</i>. He
+  is respected among the Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good man.
+  He says that he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never
+  saw an outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi: it
+  is, however, common for the people at Ujiji to drink palm toddy,
+  and then have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad feeling
+  exists next day.</p>
+
+  <p>If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is
+  killed, as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. When I
+  was amongst the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekel&eacute;tu's wives
+  would not allow her servant's child to be killed for this, but
+  few would have the courage to act in opposition to public feeling
+  as she did. In Casembe's country if a child <a name="Page_277"
+  id="Page_277"></a>is seen to turn from one side to the other in
+  sleep it is killed. They say of any child who has what they
+  consider these defects "he is an Arab child," because the Arabs
+  have none of this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be
+  near they give the child to him: it would bring ill-luck,
+  misfortunes, "milando," or guilt, to the family. These
+  superstitions may account for the readiness with which one tribe
+  parted with their children to Speke's followers. Mohamad says
+  that these children must have been taken in war, as none sell
+  their own offspring.</p>
+
+  <p>If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he puts the
+  man to death, as one who is practising secret arts against his
+  life: if any one is pounding or cooking food for him he must
+  preserve the strictest silence; these and other things show
+  extreme superstition and degradation.</p>
+
+  <p>During, his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised him
+  to leave Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their men,
+  but he always refused. His father was the first to open this
+  country to trade with the Arabs, and all his expenses while so
+  doing were borne by himself; but Mohamad seems to be a man of
+  peace, and unwilling to break the appearance of friendship with
+  the chiefs. He thinks that this Casembe poisoned his predecessor:
+  he certainly killed his wife's mother, a queen, that she might be
+  no obstacle to him in securing her daughter.</p>
+
+  <p>We are waiting in company with a number of Wanyamwesi for the
+  cessation of the rains, which have flooded the country between
+  this and Tanganyika. If there were much slope this water would
+  flow off: this makes me suspect that Tanganyika is not so low as
+  Speke's measurement. The Arabs are positive that water flows from
+  that Lake to the Victoria Nyanza, and assert that Dagara, the
+  father of Rumanyika, was anxious to send canoes from his place to
+  Ujiji, or, as some say, to dig a canal to Ujiji. The Wanyamwesi
+  here support themselves by shooting buffaloes, at <a name=
+  "Page_278" id="Page_278"></a>a place two days distant, and
+  selling the meat for grain and cassava: no sooner is it known
+  that an animal is killed, than the village women crowd in here,
+  carrying their produce to exchange it for meat, which they prefer
+  to beads or anything else. Their farinaceous food creates a great
+  craving for flesh: were my shoes not done I would go in for
+  buffaloes too.</p>
+
+  <p>A man from the upper part of Tanganyika gives the same account
+  of the river from Rusisi that Burton and Speke received when they
+  went to its mouth. He says that the water of the Lake goes up
+  some distance, but is met by Rusisi water, and driven back
+  thereby. The Lake water, he adds, finds an exit northwards and
+  eastwards by several small rivers which would admit small canoes
+  only. They pour into Lake Chowamb&eacute;&mdash;probably that
+  discovered by Mr. Baker. This Chowamb&eacute; is in Hundi, the
+  country of cannibals, but the most enlightened informants leave
+  the impression on the mind of groping in the dark: it may be all
+  different when we come to see it.</p>
+
+  <p>The fruit of the palm, which yields palm-oil, is first of all
+  boiled, then pounded in a mortar, then put into hot or boiling
+  water, and the oil skimmed off. The palm-oil is said to be very
+  abundant at Ujiji, as much as 300 gallons being often brought
+  into the bazaar for sale in one morning; the people buy it
+  eagerly for cooking purposes. Mohamad says that the Island of
+  Pemba, near Zanzibar, contains many of these palms, but the
+  people are ignorant of the mode of separating the oil from the
+  nut: they call the palm Nkoma at Casembe's, and Chikichi at
+  Zanzibar.<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id=
+  "FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class=
+  "fnanchor">[60]</a></p>
+
+  <p>No better authority for what has been done or left undone by
+  Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad bin Saleh,
+  for he is very intelligent, and takes <a name="Page_279" id=
+  "Page_279"></a>an interest in all that happens, and his father
+  was equally interested in this country's affairs. He declares
+  that no attempt was ever made by Mohamadans to proselytize the
+  Africans: they teach their own children to read the Koran, but
+  them only; it is never translated, and to servants who go to the
+  Mosque it is all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan
+  bigotry about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to
+  make <i>halel</i>, or fit to slaughter the animals for their
+  master, is the utmost advance any have made. As the Arabs in East
+  Africa never feel themselves called on to propagate the doctrines
+  of Islam, among the heathen Africans, the statement of Captain
+  Burton that they would make better missionaries to the Africans
+  than Christians, because they would not insist on the abandonment
+  of polygamy, possesses the same force as if he had said
+  Mohamadans would catch more birds than Christians, because they
+  would put salt on their tails. The indispensable requisite or
+  qualification for any kind of missionary is that he have some
+  wish to proselytize: this the Arabs do not possess in the
+  slightest degree.</p>
+
+  <p>As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best means
+  of influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to understand
+  what they are about. When we were teaching adults the alphabet,
+  they felt it a hard task. "Give me medicine, I shall drink it to
+  make me understand it," was their earnest entreaty. When they
+  have advanced so far as to form clear conceptions of Old
+  Testament and Gospel histories, they tell them to their
+  neighbours; and, on visiting distant tribes, feel proud to show
+  how much they know: in this way the knowledge of Christianity
+  becomes widely diffused. Those whose hatred to its self-denying
+  doctrines has become developed by knowledge, propagate slanders;
+  but still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention. The
+  plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting
+  knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem <a name=
+  "Page_280" id="Page_280"></a>in dealing with dumb show. I have,
+  however, been astonished to see that none of the Africans imitate
+  the Arab prayers: considering their great reverence of the Deity,
+  it is a wonder that they do not learn to address prayers to Him
+  except on very extraordinary occasions.</p>
+
+  <p>My remarks referring to the education by Mohamadans do not
+  refer to the Suahelis, for they teach their children to read, and
+  even send them to school. They are the descendants of Arab and
+  African women and inhabit the coast line. Although they read,
+  they understand very little Arabic beyond the few words which
+  have been incorporated into Suaheli. The establishment of Moslem
+  missions among the heathen is utterly unknown, and this is
+  remarkable, because the Wanyamwesi, for instance, are very
+  friendly with the Arabs&mdash;are great traders, too, like them,
+  and are constantly employed as porters and native traders, being
+  considered very trustworthy. They even acknowledge Seyed Majid's
+  authority. The Arabs speak of all the Africans as <i>"Gumu</i>"
+  that is hard or callous to the Mohamadan religion.</p>
+
+  <p>Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as in
+  Egypt, and that Moses visited it of old.</p>
+
+  <p>Mungo Park mentions that he found the Africans in the far
+  interior of the west in possession of the stories of Joseph and
+  his brethren, and others. They probably got them from the Koran,
+  as verbally explained by some liberal Mullah, and showed how
+  naturally they spread any new ideas they obtained: they were
+  astonished to find that Park knew the stories.</p>
+
+  <p>The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for the gold in their
+  country because they believe that it has been hidden where it is
+  by "Ngolu," who is the owner of it. The Arabs translate Ngolu by
+  Satan: it means M&eacute;zimo, or departed spirits, too. The
+  people are all oppressed by their superstitions; the fear of
+  death is remarkably strong. The <a name="Page_281" id=
+  "Page_281"></a>Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were
+  killed, death would visit the village; this too is the case with
+  the small Whydah birds, the fear of death in the minds of the
+  people saves them from molestation. But why should we be so prone
+  to criticise? A remnant of our own superstitions is seen in the
+  prejudice against sitting down thirteen to dinner, spilling the
+  salt, and not throwing a little of it over the left shoulder.
+  Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in passing through the streets,
+  perpetually put one hand into his pockets to cross the thumb over
+  the finger in order to avert the influence of the evil eye!</p>
+
+  <p>On the 6th, Muabo, the great chief of these parts, came to
+  call on Mohamad: several men got up and made some antics before
+  him, then knelt down and did obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped
+  about a little, and all applauded. He is a good-natured-looking
+  man, fond of a joke, and always ready with a good-humoured smile:
+  he was praised very highly, Mpw&eacute;to was nothing to Muabo
+  mokolu, the great Muabo; and he returned the praise by lauding
+  Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native name, which means, "Give
+  me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few of the ungainly antics
+  like the natives, and all were highly pleased, and went off
+  rejoicing.</p>
+
+  <p>Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands in the
+  Nyanza Lake has the power of speaking, and is the same that
+  beguiled Eve. It is a crime at Ujiji to kill a serpent, even
+  though it enters a house and kills a kid! The native name, for
+  the people of Ujiji is Wayeiy&eacute;, the very same as the
+  people on the Zouga, near Lake Ngami. They are probably an
+  offshoot from Ujiji.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id=
+  "FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class=
+  "fnanchor">[61]</a></p>
+
+  <p>There are underground stone houses in Kabiur&eacute;, in the
+  range called Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention.
+  <a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a><i>15th March,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;The roots of the Nyumbo or Noombo open in four or
+  five months from the time of planting, those planted by me on the
+  6th February have now stalks fifteen inches long. The root is
+  reported to be a very wholesome food, never disagreeing with the
+  stomach; and the raw root is an excellent remedy in obstinate
+  vomiting and nausea; four or five tubers are often given by one
+  root, in Marungu they attain a size of six inches in length by
+  two in diameter.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th March, 1868.</i>&mdash;We started for Mpw&eacute;to's
+  village, which is situated on the Lualaba, and in our course
+  crossed the Lokinda, which had a hundred yards of flood water on
+  each side of it. The river itself is forty yards wide, with a
+  rude bridge over it, as it flows fast away into Moero.</p>
+
+  <p>Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached the
+  village of Mpw&eacute;to, situated in a valley between two
+  ridges, about one mile from the right bank of the Lualaba, where
+  it comes through the mountains. It then flows about two miles
+  along the base of a mountain lying east and west before it begins
+  to make northing: its course is reported to be very winding, this
+  seems additional evidence that Tanganyika is not in a depression
+  of only 1844 feet above the sea, otherwise the water of Lualaba
+  would flow faster and make a straighter channel. It is said to
+  flow into the Lufira, and that into Tanganyika.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th March, 1868.</i>&mdash;On reaching Mpw&eacute;to's
+  yesterday we were taken up to the house of Syde bin Habib, which
+  is built on a ridge overhanging the chiefs village, a square
+  building of wattle and plaster, and a mud roof to prevent it
+  being fired by an enemy. It is a very pretty spot among the
+  mountains. Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a basket
+  of flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpw&eacute;to, which
+  he politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his
+  village, but if we waited two days he would have some prepared,
+  and would then see us. He knew what we should give him, and he
+  need not tell us <a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a>I met a man
+  from Sesk&eacute;k&eacute;, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and
+  now with him here.</p>
+
+  <p>A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in
+  every way, and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very
+  Venus in black. The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the
+  West Coast is common in Rua, and tamed by the natives.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a></p>
+
+  <p><i>19th March, 1868.</i><a name="FNanchor_63_63" id=
+  "FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class=
+  "fnanchor">[63]</a>&mdash;(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more
+  and serve Thee better.)</p>
+
+  <p>The favourite son of Mpw&eacute;to called on us; his father is
+  said to do nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to
+  be endowed with much wisdom.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th and 21st March, 1868.</i>&mdash;Our interview was put
+  off; and then a sight of the cloth we were to give was required.
+  I sent a good large cloth, and explained that we were nearly out
+  of goods now, having been travelling two years, and were going to
+  Ujiji to get more. Mpw&eacute;to had prepared a quantity of
+  pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when he looked at them
+  and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a poor bargain,
+  so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given him many
+  cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another cloth he
+  would not see me. "He had never slept with only one cloth." "I
+  had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away."</p>
+
+  <p>It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival,
+  Muabo, before visiting him. He would not see Syde bin Habib for
+  eight days; and during that time was using charms to try if it
+  would be safe to see him at all: on the ninth day he peeped past
+  a door for some time to see if Bin Habib were a proper person,
+  and then came out: he is always very suspicious.</p>
+
+  <p>At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did
+  n<a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a>ot move, he would come with
+  all his people and drive us off. Sariamo said if he were not
+  afraid for Syde bin Habib's goods, he would make a stand against
+  Mpw&eacute;to; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a
+  worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (<i>24th
+  March.</i>) He abused a native trader with his tongue for coming
+  to trade, and sent him away too. We slept again at our half-way
+  village, Kapemba, just as a party of salt-traders from Rua came
+  into it: they were tall, well-made men, and rather dark.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th March, 1868.</i>&mdash;Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and
+  were welcomed by Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But,
+  accompanied us; but Mohamad told us previously that it was likely
+  Mpw&eacute;to would refuse to see us.</p>
+
+  <p>The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is
+  impossible to go north: the Wanyamwesi, who are detained here as
+  well as we, say it is often more than a man's depth, and there
+  are no canoes. They would not stop here if a passage home could
+  be made. I am thinking of going to Lake Bemba, because at least
+  two months must be passed here still before a passage can be
+  made; but my goods are getting done, and I cannot give presents
+  to the chiefs on our way.</p>
+
+  <p>This Lake has a sandy, not muddy bottom, as we were at first
+  informed, and there are four islands in it, one, the Bangweolo,
+  is very large, and many people live on it; they have goats and
+  sheep in abundance: the owners of canoes demand three hoes for
+  the hire of one capable of carrying eight or ten persons; beyond
+  this island it is sea horizon only. The ts&eacute;bula and
+  nzo&eacute; antelopes abound. The people desire salt and not
+  beads for sale.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd April, 1868.</i>&mdash;If I am not deceived by the
+  information I have received from various reliable sources, the
+  springs of the Nile rise between 9&deg; and 10&deg; south
+  latitude, or at least 400 or 500 miles south of the south end of
+  Speke's Lake, which he considered to be the sources of the Nile.
+  <a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a>Tanganyika is declared to
+  send its water through north into Lake Chowamb&eacute; or Baker's
+  Lake; if this does not prove false, then Tanganyika is an
+  expansion of the Nile, and so is Lake Chowamb&eacute;; the two
+  Lakes being connected by the River Loanda. Unfortunately the
+  people on the east side of the Loanda are constantly at war with
+  the people on the west of it, or those of Rusisi. The Arabs have
+  been talking of opening up a path through to Chowamb&eacute;,
+  where much ivory is reported; I hope that the Most High may give
+  me a way there.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;I had a long oration from
+  Mohamad yesterday against going off for Bemba to-morrow. His
+  great argument is the extortionate way of Casembe, who would
+  demand cloth, and say that in pretending to go to Ujiji I had
+  told him lies: he adds to this argument that this is the last
+  month of the rains; the Masika has begun, and our way north will
+  soon be open. The fact of the matter is that Mohamad, by not
+  telling me of the superabundance of water in the country of the
+  Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose five months.
+  He knew that we should be detained here, but he was so eager to
+  get out of his state of durance with Casembe that he hastened my
+  departure by asserting that we should be at Ujiji in one month. I
+  regret this deception, but it is not to be wondered at, and in a
+  Mohamadan and in a Christian too it is thought clever. Were my
+  goods not nearly done I would go, and risk the displeasure of
+  Casembe for the chance of discovering the Lake Bemba. I thought
+  once of buying from Mohamad Bogharib, but am afraid that his
+  stock may be getting low too: I fear that I must give up this
+  Lake for the present.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;I think of starting to-morrow
+  for Bangweolo, even if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him: we
+  shall be better there than we are here, for everything at
+  Kabwabwata is scarce and dear. There we can get a fowl for one
+  string <a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a>of beads, here it
+  costs six: there fish may be bought, here none. Three of
+  Casembe's principal men are here, Kakwata, Charley, and
+  Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and would be a gain to
+  me, but Mohamad detains them, and when I ask his reason he says
+  "Muabo refuses," but they point to Mohamad's house and say, "It
+  is he who refuses."</p>
+
+  <p>[A very serious desertion took place at this time amongst Dr.
+  Livingstone's followers. Not to judge them too harshly they had
+  become to a great extent demoralised by camp life with Mohamad
+  and his horde of slaves and slavers. The Arab tried all he could
+  to dissuade the traveller from proceeding south instead of
+  homewards through Ujiji, and the men seem to have found their own
+  breaking-point where this disappointment occurred.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;On preparing to start this
+  morning my people refused to go: the fact is, they are all tired,
+  and Mohamad's opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was
+  evidently eager to make capital out of their refusal, asked me to
+  remain over to-day, and then demanded what I was going to do with
+  those who had absconded. I said, "Nothing: if a magistrate were
+  on the spot, I would give them over to him." "Oh," said he, "I am
+  magistrate, shall I apprehend them?" To this I assented. He
+  repeated this question till it was tiresome: I saw his reason
+  long afterwards, when he asserted that I "came to him and asked
+  him to bind them, but he had refused:" he wanted to appear to the
+  people as much better than I am.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;I start off with five
+  attendants, leaving most of the luggage with Mohamad, and reach
+  the Luao to spend the night. Headman Ndowa.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;Amoda ran away early this
+  morning. "Wishes to stop with his brothers." They think that, by
+  <a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a>refusing to go to Bemba,
+  they will force me to remain with them, and then go to Ujiji: one
+  of them has infused the idea into their minds that I will not pay
+  them, and exclaims "Look at the sepoys!"&mdash;not knowing that
+  they are paid by the Indian Government; and as for the Johanna
+  men, they were prepaid <i>29l. 4s.</i> in cash, besides clothing.
+  I sent Amoda's bundle back to Mohamad: my messenger got to
+  Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and he presented himself to my Arab
+  friend, who, of course, scolded him: he replied that he was tired
+  of carrying, and no other fault had he; I may add that I found
+  out that Amoda wished to come south to me with one of Mohamad
+  Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return. Now that I
+  was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to Mohamad that I
+  would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had done all in my power
+  to reach the Lake I sought: I would even prefer waiting at Luao
+  or Moero, till people came to me from Ujiji to supplant the
+  runaways. I did not blame them very severely in my own mind for
+  absconding: they were tired of tramping, and so verily am I, but
+  Mohamad, in encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a
+  double tongue, cannot be exonerated from blame. Little else can
+  be expected from him, he has lived some thirty-five years in the
+  country, twenty-five being at Casembe's, and there he had often
+  to live by his wits. Consciousness of my own defects makes me
+  lenient.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;Ndowa gives Mita or
+  Mpama&ntilde;kanana as the names of the excavations in Muabo's
+  hills, he says that they are sufficient to conceal all the people
+  of this district in case of war: I conjecture that this implies
+  room for ten thousand people: provisions are stored in them, and
+  a perennial rivulet runs along a whole street of them. On one
+  occasion, when the main entrance was besieged by an enemy,
+  someone who knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a
+  party out by a secret passage, and they, coming <a name=
+  "Page_288" id="Page_288"></a>over the invaders, drove them off
+  with heavy loss. Their formation is universally ascribed to the
+  Deity. This may mean that the present inhabitants have succeeded
+  the original burrowing race, which dug out many caves adjacent to
+  Mount Hor&mdash;the <i>Jebel N&eacute;bi Harin</i>, Mount of the
+  Prophet Aaron, of the Arabs&mdash;and many others; and even the
+  Bushman caves, a thousand miles south of this region.</p>
+
+  <p>A very minute, sharp-biting mosquito is found here: the women
+  try to drive them out of their huts by whisking bundles of green
+  leaves all round the walls before turning into them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th August, 1868.</i>&mdash;Crossed the Luao by a bridge,
+  thirty yards long, and more than half a mile of flood on each
+  side; passed many villages, standing on little heights, which
+  overlook plains filled with water. Some three miles of grassy
+  plains abreast of Moero were the deepest parts, except the banks
+  of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the bottom being generally
+  black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in the paths by the
+  feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud, and, as they
+  could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge, and
+  when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud,
+  half-way up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very
+  fatiguing. To avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the
+  sides of the paths, but often stepping on the unseen edge of a
+  rut, we floundered in with both feet to keep the balance, and
+  this was usually followed by a rush of bubbles to the surface,
+  which, bursting, discharged foul air of frightful faecal odour.
+  In parts, the black mud and foul water were cold, in others hot,
+  according as circulation went on or not. When we came near Moero,
+  the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all perishable
+  articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of fishermen
+  on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid
+  waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83&deg;
+  at 3 P.M.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a><i>18th April,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;We marched along the north end of Moero, which
+  has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is
+  flanked by a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees,
+  added to the fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted
+  fisherman's village near the eastern hills, we gladly made it our
+  quarters for Sunday (19th). I made no mark, but the Lake is at
+  least twenty feet higher now than it was on our first visits, and
+  there are banks showing higher rises even than this.</p>
+
+  <p>Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for
+  catching small fish; one man at each basket drives fish
+  ashore.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;Went on to
+  Kat&eacute;tt&eacute; River, and then to a strong torrent; slept
+  at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna, where, near the
+  hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook cassava and
+  maize.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st April, 1868.</i>&mdash;Crossed the Vuna and went on to
+  Kalembw&eacute;'s village, meeting the chief at the gate, who
+  guided us to a hut, and manifested great curiosity to see all our
+  things; he asked if we could not stop next day and drink beer,
+  which would then be ready. Leopards abound here. The Lake now
+  seems broader than ever.</p>
+
+  <p>I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose
+  could be turned to any account except to hold an ornament, though
+  that is usually only a bit of grass, but a man sewing the
+  feathers on his arrows used his nose-hole for holding a needle!
+  In coming on to Kangalola we found the country swimming: I got
+  separated from the company, though I saw them disappear in the
+  long grass not a hundred yards off and shouted, but the splashing
+  of their feet prevented any one hearing. I could not find a path
+  going south, so I took one to the east to a village; the grass
+  was so long and tangled, I could scarcely get along, at last I
+  engaged a man to show me the main path south, and he took me to a
+  neat village of a woman&mdash;Nyinakasanga<a name="Page_290" id=
+  "Page_290"></a>and would go no further, "Mother Kasanga," as the
+  name means, had been very handsome, and had a beautiful daughter,
+  probably another edition of herself, she advised my waiting in
+  the deep shade of the Ficus indica, in which her houses were
+  placed. I fired a gun, and when my attendants came gave her a
+  string of beads, which made her express distress at my "leaving
+  without drinking anything of hers." People have abandoned several
+  villages on account of the abundance of ferocious wild
+  beasts.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd April, 1868.</i>&mdash;Through very thick tangled
+  Nyassi grass to Chikosi's burned village; Nsama had killed him.
+  We spent the night in a garden hut, which the fire of the village
+  had spared. Turnips were growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or
+  long coarse grass, hangs over the paths, and in pushing it aside
+  the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes and are very annoying. The
+  grass itself rubs on the face and eyes disagreeably: when it is
+  burned off and greensward covers the soil it is much more
+  pleasant walking.</p>
+
+  <p>24th <i>April, 1868.</i>&mdash;We leave Chikosi's ruins and
+  make for the ford of the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom
+  all over the forest, and so are foxgloves. The river is here
+  fully 100 yards broad with 300 yards of flood on its western
+  bank; so deep we had to remain in the canoes till within 50 yards
+  of the higher ground. The people here chew the pith of the
+  papyrus, which is three inches in diameter and as white as snow:
+  it has very little sweetness or anything else in it. The headman
+  of the village to which we went was out cutting wood for a
+  garden, and his wife refused us a hut, but when Kansabala came in
+  the evening he scolded his own spouse roundly and all the wives
+  of the village, and then pressed me to come indoors, but I was
+  well enough in my mosquito curtain without, and declined: I was
+  free from insects and vermin, and few huts are so.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;Off early west, and then on to
+  an elevated forest land, in which our course was S.S.W. to the
+  great <a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a>bend of the rivulet
+  Kifurwa, which enters Moero near to the mouth of the
+  Kalungosi.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;Here we spent Sunday in our
+  former woodcutters' huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the
+  same occupation, laden with bark-cloth, which they had just been
+  stripping off the trees. Their leader would not come along the
+  path because I was sitting near it: I invited him to do so, but
+  it would have been disrespectful to let his shadow fall on any
+  part of my person, so he went a little out of the way: this
+  politeness is common.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;But a short march to
+  Fungafunga's village: we could have gone on to the
+  Muatiz&eacute;, but no village exists there, and here we could
+  buy food. Fungafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to the
+  stranger: on afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said,
+  "That is your village; always go that way and eat my provisions."
+  He is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, and
+  slaves. Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus sorghum in
+  spite of the shouts of the women.</p>
+
+  <p>We cross Muatiz&eacute; by a bridge of one large tree, getting
+  a good view of Moero from a hill near Kabukwa, and sleep at
+  Chirongo River.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;At the Mandapala River. Some
+  men here from the Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of
+  Casembe, made a great outcry against our coming a second time to
+  Casembe without waiting at the Kalungosi for permission. One of
+  them, with his ears cropped short off, asked me when I was
+  departing north if I should come again. I replied, "Yes, I think
+  I shall." They excited themselves by calling over the same thing
+  again and again. "The English come the second time!" "The second
+  time&mdash;the second time&mdash;the country spoiled! Why not
+  wait at the Kalungosi? Let him return thither." "Come from
+  Mpamari too, and from the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi!!" "The
+  second time&mdash;the second time!" Then all the ad<a name=
+  "Page_292" id="Page_292"></a>jacent villagers were called in to
+  settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher Power to
+  influence their minds as He has often done before. I persuaded
+  them to refer the matter to Casembe himself by sending a man with
+  one of mine up to the town. They would not consent to go on to
+  the Chungu, as the old cropped-eared man would have been obliged
+  to come back the distance again, he having been on the way to the
+  Kalungosi as a sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and
+  fair, but his people are neither, and will do anything to mulct
+  either strangers or their own countrymen.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th April, 1868.</i>&mdash;The cold of winter has begun,
+  and dew is deposited in great quantities, but all the streams are
+  very high in flood, though the rains have ceased here some
+  time.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st May, 1868.</i>&mdash;At the Mandapala River. I sent a
+  request to Mohamad Bogharib to intercede with Casembe for me for
+  a man to show the way to Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. I
+  fear that I have become mixed up in the Lunda mind with Mpamari
+  (Mohamad bin Saleh), from having gone off with him and returning
+  ere we reached Ujiji, whither ostensibly we were bound. I may be
+  suspected of being in his confidence, and of forwarding his plans
+  by coming back. A deaf and dumb man appears among the people
+  here, making signs exactly as I have seen such do in England, and
+  occasionally emitting a low unmodulated guttural drawl like
+  them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Abraham, my messenger, came back,
+  while we were at afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but
+  what made Cropped-ears quite chopfallen was that Casembe was
+  quite gracious! He did not wish me to go away, and now I am
+  welcome back; and as soon as we hear of peace at Chikumbi's we
+  shall have a man to conduct us thither. The Mazitu were reported
+  to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's country; and it was said
+  that chief had fled, <a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a>and
+  Casembe had sent messengers to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most
+  High for His kindness and influence.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;We leave the Mandapala.
+  Cropped-ears, whose name I never heard, collapsed at once on
+  hearing the message of Casembe: before that I never heard such a
+  babbler, to every one passing, man or woman, he repeated the same
+  insinuations about the English, and "Mpamari," and the
+  Banyamwezi,&mdash;conspiracy&mdash;guilt&mdash;return a second
+  time,&mdash;till, like a meddling lawyer, he thought that he had
+  really got an important case in hand!</p>
+
+  <p>The River Chungu we found to be from fifteen to eighteen yards
+  broad and breast deep, with at least one hundred yards of flood,
+  before we reached the main stream, the Mandapala. The Chungu and
+  the Lundi join in the country called Kimbafuma, about twelve
+  miles from our crossing-place of Mandapala, and about west of it.
+  The Lundi was now breast deep too, and twelve yards broad.</p>
+
+  <p>On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofw&eacute;, we found Mohamad
+  Bogharib digging and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves
+  being taken away by the crocodiles, as three had been eaten
+  already. A dog bit the leg of one of my goats so badly that I was
+  obliged to kill it: they are nasty curs here, without courage,
+  and yet they sometimes bite people badly. I met some old friends,
+  and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, and from this time forward
+  never omitted sharing his victuals with me.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Manoel Caetano Pereira visited
+  Casembe in 1796, or seventy-two years ago: his native name was
+  Moendo-mondo, or the world's leg&mdash;"world-wide traveller!" He
+  came to Mandapala, for there the Casembe of the time resided, and
+  he had a priest or "Kasis&eacute;" with him, and many people with
+  guns. P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute;, the oldest man now in Lunda,
+  had children even then: if P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute; were
+  thirty years of age at that period he would now be 102 years old,
+  and he seems quite that, for when Dr. Lacerda came <a name=
+  "Page_294" id="Page_294"></a>he had forty children. He says that
+  Pereira fired off all his guns on his arrival, and Casembe asking
+  him what he meant by that, he replied, "These guns ask for slaves
+  and ivory," both of which were liberally given.</p>
+
+  <p>I could not induce P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute; to tell
+  anything of times previous to his own. Moendo-mondo, the world's
+  leg (Pereira), told Dr. Lacerda that the natives called him "The
+  Terror!"&mdash;a bit of vanity, for they have no such word or
+  abstract term in their language.</p>
+
+  <p>When Major Monteiro was here the town of Casembe was on the
+  same spot as now, but the Mosumba, or enclosure of the chief, was
+  about 500 yards S.E. of the present one. Monteiro went nowhere
+  and did nothing, but some of his attendants went over to the
+  Luapula, some six miles distant. He complains in his book of
+  having been robbed by the Casembe of the time. On asking the
+  present occupant of the office why Monteiro's goods were taken
+  from him, he replied, that he was then living at another village
+  and did not know of the affair. Mohamad bin Saleh was present,
+  and he says that Monteiro's statement is false: no goods were
+  forced from him; but it was a year of scarcity, and Monteiro had
+  to spend his goods in buying food instead of slaves and ivory,
+  and made up the tale of Casembe plundering him to appease his
+  creditors.</p>
+
+  <p>A number of men were sent with Monteiro as an honorary escort.
+  Kapika, an old man now living, was the chief or one of the chiefs
+  of this party, and he says that he went to Tette, Senna, and
+  Quillimane with Monteiro: this honorary escort seems confirmatory
+  of Mohamad's explanation, for had Casembe robbed the Major none
+  would have been granted or received.</p>
+
+  <p>It is warmer here than we found it in the way; clouds cover
+  the sky and prevent radiation. The sorghum is now in full ear.
+  People make very neat mats of the leaves of the Shuar&eacute;
+  palm. I got lunars this time.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a><i>9th May,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;Eight or ten men went past us this morning, sent
+  by the chief to catch people whom he intends to send to his
+  paramount chief, Matiamvo, as a tribute of slaves.
+  P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute; gives the following list of the
+  Casembes:&mdash;</p>
+
+  <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">I. KANYIMBE, came from Lunda,
+  attracted by the</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 4em;">fish of Mofw&eacute; and Moero,
+  and conquered</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 4em;">P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute;'s
+  forefather, Kat&eacute;r&eacute;, who planted the</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 4em;">first palm-oil palms here from
+  seeds got in</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 4em;">Lunda. It is probable that the
+  intercourse</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 4em;">then set afoot led to
+  Kanyimb&eacute;'s coming and</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 4em;">conquest.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">II. KINYANTA.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">III. NGUANDA
+  MILONDA.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">IV. KANYEMBO.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">V. LEKWISA.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">VI. KIR&Eacute;KA.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">VII. KAPUMBA.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">VIII. KINYANTA.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">IX. LEKWISA, still alive, but a
+  fugitive at Nsama's.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">X. MUONGA, the present ruler, who
+  drove L&eacute;kwisa</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">away.</span><br /></p>
+
+  <p>The Portuguese came to Kir&eacute;ka, who is said to have been
+  very liberal with presents of ivory, slaves, and cattle. The
+  present man has good sense, and is very fair in his judgments,
+  but stingy towards his own people as well as strangers:
+  nevertheless I have had good reason to be satisfied with his
+  conduct to me. Maiy&eacute;, not in the list, and 7, 8, 9, 10 are
+  the children of Kir&eacute;ka. Muonga is said by the others to be
+  a slave "born out of the house," that is, his mother was not of
+  the royal line; she is an ugly old woman, and greedy. I got rid
+  of her begging by giving her the beads she sought, and requesting
+  her to cook some food for me; she begged no more, afraid that I
+  would press my claim for provisions!</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a><i>10th May,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula, he
+  replied that he had not seen me nor given me any food; I must
+  come to-morrow: but next day he was occupied in killing a man for
+  witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he would on
+  the 12th. He sent 15 fish (perch) from Mofw&eacute;, and a large
+  basket of dried cassava. I have taken lunars several times,
+  measuring both sides of the moon about 190 times, but a silly
+  map-maker may alter the whole for the most idiotic of
+  reasons.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Mohamad Bogharib has been here
+  some seven months, and bought three tusks only; the hunting, by
+  Casembe's people, of elephants in the Mofw&eacute; has been
+  unsuccessful.</p>
+
+  <p>We did not get an audience from Casembe; the fault lay with
+  Kapika&mdash;Monteiro's escort&mdash;being afraid to annoy
+  Casembe by putting him in mind of it, but on the 15th Casembe
+  sent for me, and told me that as the people had all fled from
+  Chikumbi's, he would therefore send guides to take us to Kabaia,
+  where there was still a population; he wished me to wait a few
+  days till he had looked out good men as guides, and ground some
+  flour for us to use in the journey. He understood that I wished
+  to go to Bangweolo; and it was all right to do what my own chief
+  had sent me for, and then come back to him. It was only
+  water&mdash;the same as Luapula, Mofw&eacute;, and Moero; nothing
+  to be seen. His people must not molest me again, but let me go
+  where I liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all
+  in His hand.</p>
+
+  <p>Casembe also admitted that he had injured "Mpamari," but he
+  would send him some slaves and ivory in reparation: he is better
+  than his people, who are excessively litigious, and fond of
+  milandos or causes&mdash;suits. He asked if I had not the
+  leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it was bad to sit on the
+  ground; I told him it had so many holes in it people laughed at
+  it and made me ashamed, but he did not <a name="Page_297" id=
+  "Page_297"></a>take the hint to give me another. He always talks
+  good sense when he has not swilled beer or pombe: all the Arabs
+  are loud in his praises, but they have a bad opinion of the Queen
+  Mo&auml;ri or Ngomb&eacute; or Kifuta. The Garaganza people at
+  Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and herself, and when
+  the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza or
+  Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the
+  Mofw&eacute;: he continued his flight as soon as it was dark
+  without saying anything to anyone, until he got north to
+  Kabiur&eacute;. The Queen and Casembe suspected Mpamari of
+  complicity with the Banyamwezi, and believed that Fungafunga had
+  communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A tumult was
+  made; Mpamari's eldest son was killed; and he was plundered of
+  all his copper, ivory, and slaves: the Queen loudly demanded his
+  execution, but Casembe restrained his people as well as he was
+  able and it is for this injury that he now professes to be
+  sorry.</p>
+
+  <p>The Queen only acted according to the principles of her
+  people. "Mpamari killed my son, kill his son&mdash;himself." It
+  is difficult to get at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never
+  tells the whole truth. He went to fight Nsama with Muonga, and
+  was wounded in the foot and routed, and is now glad to get out of
+  Lunda back to Ujiji. <i>(16th May.)</i> Complete twenty sets of
+  lunars.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe
+  that he could buy nothing, and therefore was going away, Casembe
+  replied that he had no ivory and he might go: this was sensible;
+  he sent far and near to find some, but failed, and now confesses
+  a truth which most chiefs hide from unwillingness to appear poor
+  before foreigners.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th and 19th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;It is hot here though
+  winter; but cold by night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. News
+  came that one of Syde bin Habib's men had come to Chikumbi on his
+  way to Zanzibar.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a><i>20th May,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;A thunder-shower from the east laid the dust and
+  cooled the ground: the last shower of this season, as a similar
+  slight shower was the finish up of the last on the 12th of May.
+  <i>(21st May.</i>) This cannot be called a rainy month: April is
+  the last month of the wet season, and November the first.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Casembe is so slow with his fish,
+  meal, and guides, and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I
+  think of going off as soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves; he is going
+  to Chikumbi's to buy copper, and thence he will proceed to Uvira
+  to exchange that for ivory; but this is at present kept as a
+  secret from his slaves. The way seems thus to be opening for me
+  to go to the large Lake west of Uvira.</p>
+
+  <p>I told Casembe that we were going; he said to me that if in
+  coming back I had found no travelling party, I must not risk
+  going by Nsama's road with so few people, but must go to his
+  brother Moenempanda, and he would send men to guide me to him,
+  and thence he would send me safely by his path along Lake Moero:
+  this was all very good.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd May, 1868.</i>&mdash;The Arabs made a sort of
+  sacrifice of a goat which was cooked all at once; they sent a
+  good dish of it to me. They read the Koran very industriously,
+  and prayed for success or luck in leaving, and seem sincerely
+  religious, according to the light that is in them. The use of
+  incense and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish times to
+  mind.</p>
+
+  <p>A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet an hour
+  south of this, to build huts; there they are to take leave of
+  Casembe, for the main body goes off to-morrow, after we have seen
+  the new moon. They are very particular in selecting lucky days,
+  and anything unpleasant that may have happened in one month is
+  supposed to be avoided by choosing a different day for beginning
+  an enterprise in the <a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a>next.
+  Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new moon, and several
+  fires happened in his camp; he now considers a third day
+  inauspicious.</p>
+
+  <p>Casembe's dura or sorghum is ripe to-day: he has eaten mapemba
+  or dura, and all may thereafter do the same: this is just about
+  the time when it ripens and is reaped at Kolobeng, thus the
+  difference in the seasons is not great.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Detained four days yet. Casembe's
+  chief men refuse to escort Mohamad Bogharib; they know him to be
+  in debt, and fear that he may be angry, but no dunning was
+  intended. Casembe was making every effort to get ivory to
+  liquidate it, and at last got a couple of tusks, which he
+  joyfully gave to Mohamad: he has risen much in the estimation of
+  us all.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Casembe's people killed five
+  buffaloes by chasing them into the mud and water of Mofw&eacute;,
+  so he is seeing to the division of the meat, and will take leave
+  to-morrow.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;We went to Casembe; he was as
+  gracious as usual. A case of crim. con. was brought forward
+  against an Arab's slave, and an attempt was made to arrange the
+  matter privately by offering three cloths, beads, and another
+  slave, but the complainant refused everything. Casembe dismissed
+  the case by saying to the complainant, "You send your women to
+  entrap the strangers in order to get a fine, but you will get
+  nothing:" this was highly applauded by the Arabs, and the owner
+  of the slave heaped dust on his head, as many had done before for
+  favours received. Casembe, still anxious to get ivory for
+  Mohamad, proposed another delay of four days to send for it; but
+  all are tired, and it is evident that it is not want of will that
+  prevents ivory being produced.</p>
+
+  <p>His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed
+  inability: he is evidently very poor.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th May, 1868.</i>&mdash;We went to the Kanengwa rivulet
+  at the <a name="Page_300" id="Page_300"></a>south end of
+  Mofw&eacute;, which forms a little lagoon there fifty yards broad
+  and thigh deep; but this is not the important feeder of the
+  Lagoon, which is from two to three miles broad, and nearly four
+  long: that has many large flat sedgy islands in it, and its water
+  is supplied by the Mb&eacute;r&eacute;z&eacute; from
+  south-east.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st May, 1868.</i>&mdash;Old Kapika sold his young and
+  good-looking wife for unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of
+  a lady in the chain-gang shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to
+  her, and having ascertained from her own mouth what was
+  sufficiently apparent, that she was a slave now, clapped their
+  hands on their mouths in the way that they express wonder,
+  surprise, and horror: the hand is placed so that the fingers are
+  on one cheek and the thumb on the other.</p>
+
+  <p>The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among the
+  people; some brought her food, Kapika's daughters brought her
+  pombe and bananas; one man offered to redeem her with two,
+  another with three slaves, but Casembe, who is very strict in
+  punishing infidelity, said, "No, though ten slaves be offered she
+  must go." He is probably afraid of his own beautiful queen should
+  the law be relaxed. Old Kapika came and said to her, "You refused
+  me, and I now refuse you." A young wife of old
+  P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute; was also sold as a punishment, but
+  redeemed.</p>
+
+  <p>There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall men
+  in this district. The slave-trader is a means of punishing the
+  wives which these old fogies ought never to have had.</p>
+
+  <p>Casembe sent me about a hundredweight of the small fish Nsipo,
+  which seems to be the whitebait of our country; it is a little
+  bitter when cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a tolerable
+  relish: we can buy flour with these at Chikumbi's.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a>
+      Chikichi nuts have been an article of trade and export for
+      some time from Zanzibar. The oil-palm grows wild in
+      Pemba.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> A chief
+      named Moen&eacute; Ungu, who admires the Arabs, sent his
+      children to Zanzibar to be instructed to read and write.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> This
+      bird is often brought to Zanzibar by the Ivory Caravans.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> The
+      Doctor's birthday.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><a name="Page_301"
+  id="Page_301"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th
+    June, 1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River
+    Luongo. Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake
+    Bembo changed to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa
+    people. Kombokombo's stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers
+    Lake Bangweolo on 18th July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni.
+    Description of the Lake. Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for
+    Lifung&eacute; Island. Immense size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala
+    Island. Strange dream. Fears of canoe men. Return to shore.
+    March back. Sends letters. Meets Banyamweze. Reviews recent
+    explorations at length. Disturbed state of country.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>1st June, 1868.</i>&mdash;Mohamad proposes to go to Katanga
+  to buy copper, and invites me to go too. I wish to see the Lufra
+  Kiver, but I must see Bemba or Bangweolo. Grant guidance from
+  above!</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd June, 1868.</i>&mdash;In passing a field of cassava I
+  picked the pods of a plant called Malumbi, which climbs up the
+  cassava bushes; at the root it has a number of tubers with eyes,
+  exactly like the potato. One plant had sixteen of these tubers,
+  each about 2 inches long and 1-1/2 inch in diameter: another
+  tuber was 5 inches long and 2 in diameter, it would be difficult
+  for anyone to distinguish them from English potatoes. When boiled
+  they are a little waxy, and, compared with our potato, hard.
+  There are colours inside, the outer part reddish, the inner
+  whiter. At first none of the party knew them, but afterwards they
+  were recognised as cultivated at Zanzibar by the name "<a name=
+  "Page_302" id="Page_302"></a>Men," and very good when mashed with
+  fish: if in Zanzibar, they are probably known in other tropical
+  islands,</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;From what I see of slaving, even
+  in its best phases, I would not be a slave-dealer for the
+  world.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;The Queen Mo&auml;ri passed us
+  this morning, going to build a hut at her plantation; she has a
+  pleasant European countenance, clean light-brown skin, and a
+  merry laugh, and would be admired anywhere. I stood among the
+  cassava to see her pass; she twirled her umbrella as she came
+  near, borne by twelve men, and seemed to take up the laugh which
+  made her and her maids bolt at my reception, showing that she
+  laughs not with her mouth only, but with her eyes and cheeks: she
+  said, "Yambo" (how are you)? To which I replied, "Tambo sana"
+  (very well). One of her attendants said, "Give her something of
+  what you have at hand, or in the pockets." I said, "I have
+  nothing here," and asked her if she would come back near my hut.
+  She replied that she would, and I duly sent for two strings of
+  red beads, which I presented. Being lower than she, I could see
+  that she had a hole through the cartilage, near the point of her
+  slightly aquiline nose; and a space was filed between the two
+  front teeth, so as to leave a triangular hole.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p302" id="p302"></a> <img src="images/p302.png" width=
+    "250" height="106" alt="Filed Teeth of Queen Mo&auml;ri."
+    title="Filed Teeth of Queen Mo&auml;ri." /><br />
+    <b>Filed Teeth of
+    Queen Mo&auml;ri.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>After delay had grown vexatious, we march three hours on the
+  9th, and reach the Katofia River, covered with aquatic trees and
+  running into the Mb&eacute;r&eacute;z&eacute;: five yards wide
+  and knee deep.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;Detained again, for business is
+  not finished with the people of Casembe. The people cannot esteem
+  the slave-trader, who is used as a means of punishing those who
+  have family differences, as those of a wife with her husband, or
+  a servant with his master. The slaves are said to be generally
+  criminals, and are sold in revenge or as punish<a name="Page_303"
+  id="Page_303"></a>ment. Kapika's wife had an ornament of the end
+  of a shell called the cone; it was borrowed and she came away
+  with it in her hair: the owner, without making any effort to
+  recover it, seized one of Kapika's daughters as a pledge that
+  Kapika would exert himself to get it back!</p>
+
+  <p>[At last the tedious delay came to an end and we must now
+  follow the Doctor on his way south to discover Lake Bemba.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;Crossed the
+  Mb&eacute;r&eacute;z&eacute;, ten yards broad and thigh deep,
+  ascending a range of low hills of hardened sandstone, covered, as
+  the country generally is, with forest. Our course S.E. and S.S.E.
+  Then descended into a densely-wooded valley, having a rivulet
+  four yards wide and knee deep. Buffaloes and elephants very
+  numerous.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;We crossed the
+  Mb&eacute;r&eacute;z&eacute; again twice; then a very deep narrow
+  rivulet, and stopped at another in a mass of trees, where we
+  spend the night, and killing an ox remained next day to eat it.
+  When at Kanengwa a small party of men came past, shouting as if
+  they had done something of importance: on going to them, I found
+  that two of them carried a lion slung to a pole. It was a small
+  maneless variety, called "the lion of <i>Nyassi</i>," or long
+  grass. It had killed a man and they killed it. They had its mouth
+  carefully strapped, and the paws tied across its chest, and were
+  taking it to Casembe. <i>Nyassi</i> means long grass, such as
+  towers overhead, and is as thick in the stalk as a goose-quill;
+  and is erroneously applied to Nyassa. Other
+  lions&mdash;Thambw&eacute;, Karamo, Simba, are said to stand 5
+  feet high, and some higher: this seemed about 3 feet high, but it
+  was too dark to measure it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;The Arabs distinguish the
+  Suaheli, or Arabs of mixed African blood, by the absence of beard
+  and whiskers: these are usually small and stunted in the
+  Suaheli.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304"></a>Birds, as the Drongo
+  shrike, and a bird very like the grey linnet, with a thick
+  reddish bill, assemble in very large flocks now that it is
+  winter, and continue thus till November, or period of the
+  rains.</p>
+
+  <p>A very minute bee goes into the common small holes in
+  wormeaten wood to make a comb and lay its eggs, with a supply of
+  honey. There are seven or eight honey-bees of small size in this
+  country.</p>
+
+  <p>A sphex may be seen to make holes in the ground, placing
+  stupified insects in them with her eggs; another species watches
+  when she goes off to get more insects, and every now and then
+  goes in too to lay her eggs, I suppose without any labour: there
+  does not appear to be any enmity between them. We remained a day
+  to buy food for the party, and eat our ox.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;March over well-wooded highlands
+  with dolomite rocks cropping out and trees all covered with
+  lichens, the watershed then changed to the south.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;Yery cold in mornings now
+  (43&deg;). Found Moenempanda, Casembe's brother, on the Luluputa,
+  a stream twenty yards wide and flowing west. The Moenempanda
+  visited by the Portuguese was grandfather to this one, and not at
+  the same spot; it is useless to put down the names of chiefs as
+  indicating geographical positions, for the name is often
+  continued, but at a spot far distant from the dwelling of the
+  original possessor. A slave tried to break out of his
+  slave-stick, and actually broke half an inch of tough iron with
+  his fingers; the end stuck in the wood, or he would have freed
+  himself.</p>
+
+  <p>The chief gave me a public reception, which was like that of
+  Casembe, but better managed. He is young, and very handsome but
+  for a defect in his eyes, which makes him keep them half shut or
+  squinting. He walked off in the jaunty way all chiefs do in this
+  country, to show the weight of rings and beads on the legs, and
+  many imitate this <a name="Page_305" id="Page_305"></a>walk who
+  have none, exactly as our fathers imitated the big cravat of
+  George IV., who thereby hid defects in his neck: thousands
+  carried their cravats over the chin who had no defects to hide.
+  Moenempanda carried his back stiffly, and no wonder, he had about
+  ten yards of a train carried behind it. About 600 people were
+  present. They kept rank, but not step; were well armed; marimbas
+  and square drums formed the bands, and one musician added his
+  voice: "I have been to Syde" (the Sultan); "I have been to
+  Meereput" (King of Portugal); "I have been to the sea." At a
+  private reception, where he was divested of his train, and had
+  only one umbrella instead of three, I gave him a cloth. The Arabs
+  thought highly of him; but his graciousness had been expended on
+  them in getting into debt; he now showed no inclination to get
+  out of it, but offered about a twentieth part of the value of the
+  goods in liquidation. He sent me two pots of beer, which I care
+  not to drink except when very thirsty on a march, and promised a
+  man to guide me to Chikumbi, and then refused. Casembe rose in
+  the esteem of all as Moenempanda sank, and his people were made
+  to understand how shabbily he had behaved.</p>
+
+  <p>The Lulaputa is said to flow into the Lu&eacute;na, and that
+  into the Luongo: there must be two Lu&eacute;nas.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd June, 1868.</i>&mdash;March across a grassy plain
+  southerly to the Luongo, a deep river embowered in a dense forest
+  of trees, all covered with lichens&mdash;some flat, others long
+  and thready, like old men's beards, and waving in the wind, just
+  as they do on the mangrove-swamp trees on the coast. The Luongo
+  here is fifty yards broad and three fathoms deep; near its
+  junction with the Luapula it is 100 yards; it rises here to eight
+  fathoms' depth. A bridge of forty yards led us over to an island,
+  and a branch of the river was ten yards beyond: the bridge had
+  been broken, some thought on purpose, but it was soon mended with
+  trees eighteen to <a name="Page_306" id="Page_306"></a>twenty
+  yards long. We went a little way beyond, and then halted for a
+  day at a rivulet flowing into the Luongo, 200 yards off.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd June, 1868.</i>&mdash;We waited for copper here, which
+  was at first refused as payment of debt. I saw now that the
+  Luongo had steep clay banks fifteen feet down, and many meadows,
+  which must be swimming during the rains. The Lu&eacute;na is said
+  to rise east of this.</p>
+
+  <p>[In a private letter Livingstone shows that he had seldom been
+  more affected by the sufferings of slaves than at this time, and
+  it would perhaps be difficult to imagine any scene more
+  calculated to excite misery and distress of mind.</p>
+
+  <p>The following incident deals with the firm belief in a future
+  state, which enters so largely into the minds of all Africans,
+  and which for very lack of guidance assumes all the distorted
+  growths of superstition.</p>
+
+  <p>He must be of a thankless spirit who does not long to
+  substitute the great vision of future peace afforded by
+  Christianity, in lieu of the ghastly satisfaction which cheered
+  these men, when he sees by the light of this story the capacity
+  that exists for realising a life beyond the grave.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;Six men slaves were singing as
+  if they did not feel the weight and degradation of the
+  slave-sticks. I asked the cause of their mirth, and was told that
+  they rejoiced at the idea "of coming back after death and
+  haunting and killing those who had sold them." Some of the words
+  I had to inquire about; for instance, the meaning of the words
+  "to haunt and kill by spirit power;" then it was, "Oh, you sent
+  me off to Manga (sea-coast), but the yoke is off when I die, and
+  back I shall come to haunt and to kill you." Then all joined in
+  the chorus, which was the name of each vendor. It told not of
+  fun, but of the bitterness <a name="Page_307" id=
+  "Page_307"></a>and tears of such as were oppressed, and on the
+  side of the oppressors there was a power: there be higher than
+  they!</p>
+
+  <p>P&eacute;r&eacute;mb&eacute; was one of the culprits thus
+  menaced. The slave-owner asked Kapika's wife if she would return
+  to kill Kapika. The others answered to the names of the different
+  men with laughter. Her heart was evidently sore: for a lady to
+  come so low down is to her grievous. She has lost her jaunty air,
+  and is, with her head shaved, ugly; but she never forgets to
+  address her captors with dignity, and they seem to fear her.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;We went over flat forest with
+  patches of brown haematite cropping out; this is the usual iron
+  ore, but I saw in a village pieces of specular iron-ore which had
+  been brought for smelting. The Luongo flowed away somewhat to our
+  right or west, and the villagers had selected their site where
+  only well-water could be found: we went ten minutes towards the
+  Luongo and got abundance.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="p307" id="p307"></a> <img src="images/p307.jpg" width=
+    "323" height="216" alt="A Forest Grave." title=
+    "A Forest Grave." /><br /> <b>A Forest Grave.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The gardens had high hedges round to keep off wild beasts. We
+  came to a grave in the forest; it was a little rounded mound as
+  if the occupant sat in it in the usual native way: it was strewed
+  over with flour, and a number of the large blue beads put on it:
+  a little path showed that it had visitors. This is the sort of
+  grave I should prefer: to lie in the still, still forest, and no
+  hand ever disturb my bones. The graves at home always seemed to
+  me to be miserable, especially those in the cold damp clay, and
+  without elbow room; but I have nothing to do but wait till He who
+  is over all decides where I <a name="Page_308" id=
+  "Page_308"></a>have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on
+  Shupanga brae, "and beeks fornent the sun."<a name=
+  "FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></p>
+
+  <p>Came to the Chando River, which is the boundary between
+  Casembe and Chikumbi; but Casembe is over all.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;We crossed a flooded marsh with
+  the water very cold, and then the Chando itself twelve feet broad
+  and knee deep, then on to another strong brook Ns&eacute;nga.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;After service we went on up
+  hills to a stockade of Banyamwezi, on the Kalomina River, and
+  here we built our sheds; the spot is called Kizinga, and is on
+  the top of a sandstone range covered as usual with forest. The
+  Banyamwezi beat off the Mazitu with their guns, while all the
+  country people fled. The Banyamwezi are decidedly uglier than the
+  Balonda and Baitawa: they eat no fish, though they come from the
+  east side of Tanganyika, where fish are abundant and cheap; but
+  though uglier, they have more of the sense of honour with traders
+  than the aborigines.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th June, 1868.</i>&mdash;Observed the "smokes" to-day,
+  the first of the season:<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id=
+  "FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class=
+  "fnanchor">[65]</a> they obscured the whole country.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st July, 1868.</i>&mdash;I went over to Chikumbi, the
+  paramount chief of this district, and gave him a cloth, begging a
+  man to guide me to Bangweolo. He said that I was welcome to his
+  country; all were so: I had better wait two days till he had
+  selected a <i>good</i> man as a guide, and he would send some
+  food for me to eat in the journey&mdash;he would not say ten
+  days, but only two, and his man would take me to the smaller part
+  of the Lake, and leave others to forward me to the greater or
+  Bangweolo. The smaller part is named Bemba, but that name is
+  confusing, because Bemba is the name of the country in which a
+  portion of the Lake lies. <a name="Page_309" id=
+  "Page_309"></a>When asking for Lake Bemba, Kasongo's son said to
+  me, "Bemba is not a lake, but a country:" it is therefore better
+  to use the name BANGWEOLO, which is applied to the great mass of
+  the water, though I fear that our English folks will bogle at it,
+  or call it Bungyhollow! Some Arabs say Bambeolo as easier of
+  pronunciation, but Bangweolo is the correct word. Chikumbi's
+  stockade is 1-1/2 hour S.E. of our camp at Kizinga.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Writing to the Consul at Zanzibar
+  to send supplies of cloth to Ujiji&mdash;120 pieces, 40 Kiniki;
+  80 merikano 34 inches broad, or samsam. Fine red
+  beads&mdash;Talaka, 12 frasilas. I ask for soap, coffee, sugar,
+  candles, sardines, French preserved meats, a cheese in tin,
+  Nautical Almanac for 1869 and 1870, shoes (two or four pairs),
+  ruled paper, pencils, sealing-wax, ink, powder, flannel-serge, 12
+  frasila beads, 6 of Talaka; added 3 F. pale red, 3 W. white.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd July, 1868.</i>&mdash;The summary of the sources which
+  I have resolved to report as flowing into the central line of
+  drainage formed by the Chambez&eacute;, Luapula, and Lualaba are
+  thirteen in all, and each is larger than the Isis at Oxford, or
+  Avon at Hamilton. Five flow into the eastern line of drainage
+  going through Tanganyika, and five more into the western line of
+  drainage or Lufira, twenty-three or more in all. The Lualaba and
+  the Lufira unite in the Lake of the chief Kinkonza.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;I borrowed some paper from
+  Mohamad Bogharib to write home by some Arabs going to the coast.
+  I will announce my discovery to Lord Clarendon; but I reserve the
+  parts of the Lualaba and Tanganyika for future confirmation. I
+  have no doubts on the subject, for I receive the reports of
+  natives of intelligence at first hand, and they have no motive
+  for deceiving me. The best maps are formed from the same sort of
+  reports at third or fourth hand. Cold N.E. winds prevail at
+  present.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310"></a><i>6th July,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;Divided our salt that each may buy provisions for
+  himself: it is here of more value than beads. Chikumbi sent fine
+  flour, a load for two stout men carried in a large basket slung
+  to a pole, and a fine fat sheep, carried too because it was too
+  fat to walk the distance from his stockade.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th, 8th, and 9th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;After delaying
+  several days to send our guide, Chikumbi said that he feared the
+  country people would say that the Ingleza brought the Mazitu to
+  them, and so blame will be given to him. I set this down as
+  "words of pombe," beery babble; but after returning from
+  Bangweolo, I saw that he must have been preparing to attack a
+  stockade of Banyamwezi in our path, and had he given us a guide,
+  that man would have been in danger in coming back: he therefore
+  preferred the safety of his man to keeping his promise to me. I
+  got a Banyamwezi guide, and left on the <i>10th July, 1868</i>,
+  going over gently rising sandstone hills, covered with forest and
+  seeing many deserted villages, the effects of the Mazitu foray:
+  we saw also the Mazitu sleeping-places and paths. They neglect
+  the common paths of the country as going from one village to
+  another, and take straight courses in the direction they wish to
+  go, treading down the grass so as to make a well-marked route,
+  The Banyamwezi expelled them, cutting off so many of them with
+  their guns and arrows that the marauders retired. The effect of
+  this success on the minds of the Imboshwa, or Imbozhwas, as
+  Chikumbi's people are called, was not gratitude, but envy at the
+  new power sprung up among them of those who came originally as
+  traders in copper.</p>
+
+  <p>Kombokombo's stockade, the village to which we went this day,
+  was the first object of assault, and when we returned, he told us
+  that Chikumbi had assaulted him on three sides, but was repulsed.
+  The Banyamwezi were, <a name="Page_311" id=
+  "Page_311"></a>moreover, much too sharp as traders for the
+  Imboshwa, cheating them unmercifully, and lying like Greeks.
+  Kombokombo's stockade was on the Chib&eacute;ras&eacute; River,
+  which flows briskly, eight yards broad and deep, through a mile
+  of sponge. We came in the midst of a general jollification, and
+  were most bountifully supplied with pombe and food. The
+  Banyamwezi acknowledge allegiance to the Sultan of Zanzibar, and
+  all connected with him are respected. Kombokombo pressed food and
+  drink on me, and when I told him that I had nothing to return for
+  it, he said that he expected nothing: he was a child of the
+  Sultan, and ought to furnish all I needed.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;On leaving the
+  Chib&eacute;ras&eacute; we passed up over a long line of hills
+  with many villages and gardens, but mostly deserted during the
+  Mazitu raid. The people fled into the forests on the hills, and
+  were an easy prey to the marauders, who seem to have been
+  unmerciful. When we descended into the valley beyond we came to a
+  strong stockade, which had successfully resisted the onset of the
+  Mazitu; we then entered on flat forest, with here and there
+  sponges containing plenty of water; plains succeeded the hills,
+  and continued all the way to Bangweolo. We made a fence in the
+  forest; and next day <i>(12th July)</i> reached the Rofuba, 50
+  yards broad and 4-1/2 feet deep, full of aquatic plants, and
+  flowing south-west into the Luongo: it had about a mile and a
+  half of sponge on each side of it. We encamped a little south of
+  the river.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;On resting at a deserted spot,
+  the men of a village in the vicinity came to us excited and
+  apparently drunk, and began to work themselves up still more by
+  running about, poising their spears at us, taking aim with their
+  bows and arrows, and making as if about to strike with their
+  axes: they thought that we were marauders, and some plants of
+  ground-nuts strewn about gave colour to the idea. There is
+  usually one good soul in such rabbles. <a name="Page_312" id=
+  "Page_312"></a>In this case a man came to me, and, addressing his
+  fellows, said, "This is only your pombe. White man, do not stand
+  among them, but go away," and then he placed himself between me
+  and a portion of the assailants, about thirty of whom were making
+  their warlike antics. While walking quietly away with my good
+  friend they ran in front and behind bushes and trees, took aim
+  with bow and arrow, but none shot: the younger men ran away with
+  our three goats. When we had gone a quarter of a mile my friend
+  told me to wait and he would bring the goats, which he did: I
+  could not feel the inebriates to be enemies; but in that state
+  they are the worst one can encounter, for they have no fear as
+  they have when sober. One snatched away a fowl from our guide,
+  that too was restored by our friend. I did not load my gun; for
+  any accidental discharge would have inflamed them to rashness. We
+  got away without shedding blood, and were thankful. The Mazitu
+  raid has produced lawlessness in the country: every one was taken
+  as an enemy.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;We remained a day at the
+  stockade of Moi&eacute;gg&eacute;a. A Banyamwezi or Garaganza man
+  is settled here in Kabaia's district, and on the strong rivulet
+  called Mato. We felt secure only among the strangers, and they
+  were friendly with us.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;At the village on the south bank
+  of the Mpanda we were taken by the headman as Mazitu. He was
+  evidently intoxicated, and began to shut his gates with frantic
+  gesticulations. I offered to go away; but others of his people,
+  equally intoxicated, insisted on my remaining. I sat down a
+  little, but seeing that the chief was still alarmed, I said to
+  his people, "The chief objects and I can't stay:" they saw the
+  reasonableness of this, but I could not get my cowardly
+  attendants to come on, though one said to me, "Come, I shall show
+  you the way: we must speak nice to them." This the wise boys
+  think the perfection of virtue, <a name="Page_313" id=
+  "Page_313"></a>speaking nice means adopting a childish treble
+  tone of voice and words exactly similar to those of the little
+  Scotch girl who, passing through a meadow, was approached by a
+  cow, probably from curiosity. To appease this enemy, she said,
+  "Oh, coo, coo, if you no hurt me, I no hurt you." I told them to
+  come on and leave them quietly, but they remained babbling with
+  them. The guide said that there was no water in front: this I
+  have been told too often ever to believe, so I went on through
+  the forest, and in an hour and a half came to a sponge where,
+  being joined by my attendants, we passed the night.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Crossing this sponge, and
+  passing through flat forest, we came to another named
+  M&eacute;shw&eacute;, when there, as a contrast, the young men
+  volunteered to carry me across; but I had got off my shoes, and
+  was in the water, and they came along with me, showing the
+  shallower parts. We finished the day's march by crossing the
+  Molongosi spongy ooze, with 150 paces of deep water, flowing N.E.
+  The water in these oozes or sponges felt very cold, though only
+  60&deg; in the mornings, and 65&deg; at midday. The Molongosi
+  people invited us into the village; but the forest, unless when
+  infested with leopards and lions, is always preferable, for one
+  is free from vermin, and free from curiosity gazers, who in the
+  village think they have a right to stare, but in the forest feel
+  that they are not on an equality with strangers.</p>
+
+  <p>[It was on the 18th of July, 1868, we see that Dr. Livingstone
+  discovered one of the largest of the Central African Lakes. It is
+  extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and
+  enthusiasm, as&mdash;almost parenthetically&mdash;he records the
+  fact.]</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th and 18th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Reached the chief
+  village of Mapuni, near the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th
+  <a name="Page_314" id="Page_314"></a>I walked a little way out
+  and saw the shores of the Lake for the first time, thankful that
+  I had come safely hither.</p>
+
+  <p>I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and gave him
+  a fathom of calico as all I could spare: I told him that as soon
+  as I had seen and measured the Lake I would return north; he
+  replied, that seeing our goods were done he could say nothing, he
+  would give me guides, and what else he should do was known to
+  himself. He gave a public reception at once. I asked if he had
+  ever seen anyone like me, and he said, "Never." A Babisa
+  traveller asked me why I had come so far; I said I wished to make
+  the country and people better known to the rest of the world,
+  that we were all children of one Father, and I was anxious that
+  we should know each other better, and that friendly visits should
+  be made in safety. I told him what the Queen had done to
+  encourage the growth of cotton on the Zambezi, and how we had
+  been thwarted by slave-traders and their abettors: they were
+  pleased with this. When asked I showed them my note-book, watch,
+  compass, burning-glass, and was loudly drummed home.</p>
+
+  <p>I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its
+  contents. I shall require a few days more at Bangweolo than I at
+  first intended. The moon being in its last stage of waning I
+  cannot observe till it is of some size.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Went down to Masantu's village,
+  which is on the shore of the Lake, and by a spring called
+  Chipoka, which comes out of a mass of disintegrated granite. It
+  is seldom that we see a spring welling out beneath a rock: they
+  are covered by oozing sponges, if indeed they exist. Here we had
+  as a spectator a man walking on stilts tied to his ankles and
+  knees. There are a great many Babisa among the people. The women
+  have their hair ornamented with strings of cowries, and well
+  oiled with the oil and fat from the seeds of the Mosikisi trees.
+  I sent the chief a fathom of calico, and got an audience at
+  <a name="Page_315" id="Page_315"></a>once. Masantu is an oldish
+  man; had never prayed to the Great Father of all, though he said
+  the footsteps of "Mungu," or Mulungu, could be seen on a part of
+  Lifung&eacute; Island: a large footstep may also be seen on the
+  rock at the Chambez&eacute;, about fifteen inches long. He
+  informed us that the Lake is much the largest at the part called
+  Bangweolo.</p>
+
+  <p>The country around the Lake is all flat, and very much denuded
+  of trees, except the Motsikiri or Mosikisi, which has fine dark,
+  dense foliage, and is spared for its shade and the fatty oil
+  yielded by its seeds: we saw the people boiling large pots full
+  of the dark brown fat, which they use to lubricate their hair.
+  The islands, four in number, are all flat, but well peopled. The
+  men have many canoes, and are all expert fishermen; they are
+  called Mboghwa, but are marked on the forehead and chin as
+  Babisa, and file the teeth to points. They have many children, as
+  fishermen usually have.</p>
+
+  <p><i>21st July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Canoe-men are usually
+  extortionate, because one cannot do without them. Mapuni claims
+  authority over them, and sent to demand another fathom that he
+  may give orders to them to go with us: I gave a hoe and a string
+  of beads instead, but he insisted on the cloth, and kept the hoe
+  too, as I could not afford the time to haggle.</p>
+
+  <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Chipoka spring water at 9 A.M.
+  75&deg; }</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lake water at same time&nbsp;
+  71&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; } air 72&deg;.</span><br />
+  <br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Chipoka spring at 4 P.M. 74&deg;
+  5'&nbsp; &nbsp; }</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lake water at same time
+  75&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; } air 71&deg; 5'; wet bulb
+  70&deg;.</span><br /></p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter">
+    <a name="fp316" id="fp316"></a> <img src="images/fp316.jpg"
+    width="500" height="285" alt="Discovery of Lake Bangweolo."
+    title="Discovery of Lake Bangweolo." /><br />
+    <b>Discovery of Lake
+    Bangweolo.</b>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>No hot fountains or earthquakes are known in this region. The
+  bottom of the Lake consists of fine white sand, and a broad belt
+  of strong rushes, say 100 yards wide, shows shallow water. In the
+  afternoons quite a crowd of canoes anchor at its outer edge to
+  angle; the hooks are like ours, but without barbs. The fish are
+  perch chiefly, but others similar to those that appear in the
+  other Lakes are found, <a name="Page_316" id="Page_316"></a>and
+  two which attain the large size of 4 feet by 1-1/2 in. thickness:
+  one is called Sampa.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd July, 1868.</i>&mdash;A very high wind came with the
+  new moon, and prevented our going, and also the fishermen from
+  following their calling. Mapuni thought that we meant to make, an
+  escape from him to the Babisa on the south, because we were
+  taking our goats, I therefore left them and two attendants at
+  Masantu's village to assure him.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Wind still too strong to go.
+  Took lunars.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Wind still strong.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Strong S.E. wind still blowing,
+  but having paid the canoe-men amply for four days with beads, and
+  given Masantu a hoe and beads too, we embarked at 11.40 A.M. in a
+  fine canoe, 45 feet long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad. The
+  waves were high, but the canoe was very dry and five stout men
+  propelled her quickly towards an opening in Lifung&eacute;
+  Island, on our S.E. Here we stopped to wood, and I went away to
+  look at the island, which had the marks of hippopotami and a
+  species of jackal on it: it had hard wiry grass, some flowers,
+  and a species of Gapparidaceous tree. The trees showed well the
+  direction of the prevailing wind to be south-east, for the
+  branches on that side were stunted or killed, while those on the
+  north-west ran out straight, and made the trees appear, as
+  sailors say, lopsided: the trunks too were bent that way.</p>
+
+  <p>The canoe-men now said that they would start, then that they
+  would sleep here, because we could not reach the Island Mpabala
+  before dark, and would not get a hut. I said that it would be
+  sleeping out of doors only in either case, so they went. We could
+  see the island called Kisi on our east, apparently a double
+  island, about 15 miles off, and the tops of the trees barely
+  visible on Mpabala on our south-east. It was all sea horizon on
+  our south and north, between Lifung&eacute; and Mpabala, and
+  between Lifung&eacute; and Kisi. We could not go to Kisi,
+  because, as the canoe-men <a name="Page_317" id=
+  "Page_317"></a>told us, they had stolen their canoe thence.
+  Though we decided to go, we remained awhile to let the sea go
+  down. A hammerhead's nest on one of the trees was fully four feet
+  high. Coarse rushes show the shoals near the islands. Only one
+  shell was seen on the shores. The canoe ships much less water in
+  this surf than our boat did in that of Nyassa. The water is of a
+  deep sea-green colour, probably from the reflection of the fine
+  white sand of the bottom; we saw no part having the deep dark
+  blue of Nyassa, and conjecture that the depth is not great; but I
+  had to leave our line when Amoda absconded. On Kisi we observed a
+  dark square mass, which at first I took to be a low hill: it
+  turned out to be a mass of trees (probably the place of
+  sepulture, for the graveyards are always untouched), and shows
+  what a dense forest this land would become were it not for the
+  influence of men.</p>
+
+  <p>We reached Mpabala after dark. It was bitterly cold, from the
+  amount of moisture in the air. I asked a man who came to see what
+  the arrival was, for a hut; he said, "Do strangers require huts,
+  or ask for them at night?" he then led us to the public place of
+  meeting, called Nsaka, which is a large shed, with planks around
+  and open spaces between, instead of walls; here we cooked a
+  little porridge, and ate it, then I lay down on one side, with
+  the canoe-men and my attendants at the fire in the middle, and
+  was soon asleep, and dreamed that I had apartments in Mivart's
+  Hotel. This made me feel much amused next day, for I never dream
+  unless I am ill, or going to be ill; and of all places in the
+  world, I never thought of Mivart's Hotel in my waking moments; a
+  freak of the fancy surely, for I was not at all discontented with
+  my fare, or apartment, I was only afraid of getting a stock of
+  vermin from my associates.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;I have to stand the stare of a
+  crowd of people at every new place for hours: all usually talk as
+  <a name="Page_318" id="Page_318"></a>quickly as their glib
+  tongues can; these certainly do not belong to the tribes who are
+  supposed to eke out their language by signs! A few indulge their
+  curiosity in sight-seeing, but go on steadily weaving nets, or by
+  beating bark-cloth, or in spinning cotton, others smoke their big
+  tobacco pipes, or nurse a baby, or enjoy the heat of the bright
+  morning sun. I walked across the north end of the island, and
+  found it to be about one mile broad, I also took bearings of
+  Chirubi Island from the eastern point of Mpabala, and found from
+  the south-east point of Chirubi that there are 183&deg; of sea
+  horizon from it to the point of departure of the Luapula. Chirubi
+  is the largest of the islands, and contains a large population,
+  possessing many sheep and goats. At the highest part of Mpabala
+  we could see the tops of the trees on Kasango, a small
+  uninhabited islet, about thirty miles distant: the tops of the
+  trees were evidently lifted up by the mirage, for near the shore
+  and at other parts they were invisible, even with a good glass.
+  This uninhabited islet would have been our second stage had we
+  been allowed to cross the Lake, as it is of the people
+  themselves; it is as far beyond it to the mainland, called Manda,
+  as from Masantu's to Mpabala.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;Took lunars and stars for
+  latitude.</p>
+
+  <p>The canoe-men now got into a flurry, because they were told
+  here that the Kisi men had got an inkling that their canoe was
+  here, and were coming to take it; they said to me that they would
+  come back for me, but I could not trust thieves to be so honest.
+  I thought of seizing their paddles, and appealing to the headmen
+  of the island; but aware from past experience how easy it is for
+  acknowledged thieves like them to get up a tale to secure the
+  cheap sympathy of the soft-headed, or tender-hearted, I resolved
+  to bear with meekness, though groaning inwardly, the loss of two
+  of the four days for which I had paid them. I had only my
+  coverlet to hire another canoe, and it was now very cold;
+  <a name="Page_319" id="Page_319"></a>the few beads left would all
+  be required to buy food in the way back, I might have got food by
+  shooting buffaloes, but that on foot and through grass, with
+  stalks as thick as a goose quill, is dreadfully hard work; I had
+  thus to return to Masantu's, and trust to the distances as
+  deduced from the time taken by the natives in their canoes for
+  the size of the Lake.</p>
+
+  <p>We had come to Mpabala at the rate of six knots an hour, and
+  returned in the same time with six stout paddlers. The latitude
+  was 12' in a south-east course, which may give 24' as the actual
+  distance. To the sleeping-place, the Islet Kasango, there was at
+  least 28' more, and from thence to the mainland "Manda," other
+  28'. This 24 + 28 + 28 = 80' as the breadth from Masantu village,
+  looking south-east. It lies in 11&deg; 0' S. If we add on the
+  half distance to this we have 11&deg; 40' as the latitude of
+  Manda. The mainland to the south of Mpabala is called
+  Kabend&eacute;. The land's end running south of Masantu's village
+  is the entrance to the Luapula: the clearest eye cannot see
+  across it there. I saw clouds as if of grass burning, but they
+  were probably "Kungu," an edible insect, whose masses have
+  exactly the same appearance as they float above and on the water.
+  From the time the canoes take to go to Kabend&eacute; I believe
+  the southern shore to be a little into 12&deg; of south latitude:
+  the length, as inferred from canoes taking ten days to go from
+  Mpabala to the Chambez&eacute;, I take to be 150 miles, probably
+  more. No one gave a shorter time than that. The Luapula is an arm
+  of the Lake for some twenty miles, and beyond that is never
+  narrower than from 180 to 200 yards, generally much broader, and
+  may be compared with the Thames at London Bridge: I think that I
+  am considerably within the mark in setting down Bangweolo as 150
+  miles long by 80 broad.</p>
+
+  <p>When told that it contained four large islands, I imagined
+  that these would considerably diminish the watery <a name=
+  "Page_320" id="Page_320"></a>acreage of the whole, as is said to
+  be the case with five islands in Ukerew&eacute;; but even the
+  largest island, Chirubi, does not in the least dwarf the enormous
+  mass of the water of Bangweolo. A range of mountains, named
+  Lokinga, extends from the south-east to the south-west: some
+  small burns come down from them, but no river; this range joins
+  the Kon&eacute;, or Mokon&eacute; range, west of Katanga, from
+  which on one side rises the Lufira, and on the other the Liambai,
+  or Zambesi. The river of Manda, called Matanga, is only a
+  departing and re-entering branch of the Lake, also the Luma and
+  Lo&eacute;la rivers&mdash;some thirty yards broad&mdash;have each
+  to be examined as springs on the south of the Lake.</p>
+
+  <p><i>July 29th, 1868.</i>&mdash;Not a single case of Derbyshire
+  neck, or of Elephantiasis, was observed anywhere near the Lake,
+  consequently the report we had of its extreme unhealthiness was
+  erroneous: no muddy banks did we see, but in the way to it we had
+  to cross so many sponges, or oozes, that the word
+  <i>matop&eacute;</i>, mud, was quite applicable; and I suspect,
+  if we had come earlier, that we should have experienced great
+  difficulty in getting to the Lake at all.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th July, 1868.</i>&mdash;We commenced our march back,
+  being eager to get to Chikumbi's in case Mohamad should go thence
+  to Katanga. We touched at Mapuni's, and then went on to the
+  Molongosi. Clouds now began to cover the sky to the Mpanda, which
+  has fifteen yards of flood, though the stream itself is only five
+  yards wide, then on to the Mato and Moi&eacute;gg&eacute;'s
+  stockade, where we heard of Chikumbi's attack on Kombokombo's.
+  Moi&eacute;gg&eacute; had taken the hint, and was finishing a
+  second line of defence around his village: we reached him on the
+  1st August, 1868, and stopped for Sunday the 2nd: on the 3rd back
+  to the Rofubu, where I was fortunate enough to hire a canoe to
+  take me over.</p>
+
+  <p>In examining a tsetse fly very carefully I see that it has a
+  receptacle at the root of the piercer, which is of a black or
+  dark-red colour; and when it is squeezed, a clear fluid is
+  <a name="Page_321" id="Page_321"></a>pressed out at its point:
+  the other two parts of the proboscis are its shield, and have no
+  bulb at the base. The bulb was pronounced at the Royal Society to
+  be only muscle, but it is curious that muscle should be furnished
+  where none is needed, and withheld in the movable parts of the
+  shield where it is decidedly needed.</p>
+
+  <p><i>5th August, 1868.</i>&mdash;Reach Kombokombo, who is very
+  liberal, and pressed us to stay a day with him as well as with
+  others; we complied, and found that Mohamad had gone nowhere.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th August, 1868.</i>&mdash;We found a party starting from
+  Kizinga for the coast, having our letters with them; it will take
+  five months to reach the sea. The disturbed state of the country
+  prevented parties of traders proceeding in various directions,
+  and one that set off on the same day with us was obliged to
+  return. Mohamad has resolved to go to Manyuema as soon as parties
+  of his men now out return: this is all in my favour; it is in the
+  way I want to go to see the Lualaba and Lufira to
+  Chowamb&eacute;. The way seems opening out before me, and I am
+  thankful. I resolved to go north by way of Casembe, and guides
+  were ready to start, so was I; but rumours of war where we were
+  going induced me to halt to find out the truth: the guides
+  (Banyamwezi) were going to divine, by means of a cock, to see if
+  it would be lucky to go with me at present. The rumours of danger
+  became so circumstantial that our fence was needed: a well was
+  dug inside, and the Banyamwezi were employed to smelt copper as
+  for the market of Manyuema, and balls for war. Syde bin Omar soon
+  came over the Luapula from Iramba, and the state of confusion
+  induced the traders to agree to unite their forces and make a
+  safe retreat out of the country. They objected very strongly to
+  my going away down the right bank of the Luapula with my small
+  party, though it was in sight, so I resolved to remain till all
+  went.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322"></a><i>13th August,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;The Banyamwezi use a hammer shaped like a cone,
+  without a handle. They have both kinds of bellows, one of
+  goatskin the other of wood, with a skin over the mouth of a drum,
+  and a handle tied to the middle of it; with these they smelt
+  pieces of the large bars of copper into a pot, filled nearly full
+  of wood ashes. The fire is surrounded by masses of anthills, and
+  in these there are hollows made to receive the melted metal: the
+  metal is poured while the pot is held with the hands, protected
+  by wet rags.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th August, 1868.</i>&mdash;Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from
+  Muaboso on Chambez&eacute; in six days, crossing in that space
+  twenty-two burns or oozes, from knee to waist deep.</p>
+
+  <p>Very high and cold winds prevail at present. It was proposed
+  to punish Chikumbi when Syde bin Omar came, as he is in debt and
+  refuses payment; but I go off to Casembe.</p>
+
+  <p>I learn that there is another hot fountain in the Baloba
+  country, called Fungw&eacute;; this, with Kapira and Vana, makes
+  three hot fountains in this region.</p>
+
+  <p>Some people were killed in my path to Casembe, so this was an
+  additional argument against my going that way.</p>
+
+  <p>Some Banyamwezi report a tribe&mdash;the Bonyolo&mdash;that
+  extract the upper front teeth, like Batoka; they are near Loanda,
+  and Lake Chipokola is there, probably the same as Kinkonza.
+  Feeling my way. All the trees are now pushing out fresh young
+  leaves of different colours: winds S.E. Clouds of upper stratum
+  N.W.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th August, 1868.</i>&mdash;Kaskas began to-day hot and
+  sultry. This will continue till rains fall. Rumours of wars
+  perpetual and near; and one circumstantial account of an attack
+  made by the Baus&eacute;. That again contradicted. <i>(31st
+  August, 1868.)</i> Rain began here this evening, quite remarkable
+  and exceptional, as it precedes the rains generally off the
+  watershed by two months at least: it was a thunder <a name=
+  "Page_323" id="Page_323"></a>shower, and it and another on the
+  evening of the second were quite partial.</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p>[As we shall see, he takes advantage of his late experience to
+  work out an elaborate treatise on the climate of this region,
+  which is exceedingly important, bearing, as it does, upon the
+  question of the periodical floods on the rivers which drain the
+  enormous cistern-lakes of Central Africa.]</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p>The notion of a rainy zone, in which the clouds deposit their
+  treasures in perpetual showers, has received no confirmation from
+  my observations. In 1866-7, the rainfall was 42 inches. In
+  1867-8, it amounted to 53 inches: this is nearly the same as
+  falls in the same latitudes on the West Coast. In both years the
+  rains ceased entirely in May, and with the exception of two
+  partial thunder showers on the middle of the watershed, no rain
+  fell till the middle and end of October, and then, even in
+  November, it was partial, and limited to small patches of
+  country; but scarcely a day passed between October and May
+  without a good deal of thunder. When the thunder began to roll or
+  rumble, that was taken by the natives as an indication of the
+  near cessation of the rains. The middle of the watershed is the
+  most humid part: one sees the great humidity of its climate at
+  once in the trees, old and young, being thickly covered with
+  lichens; some flat, on the trunks and branches; others long and
+  thready, like the beards of old men waving in the wind. Large
+  orchids on the trees in company with the profusion of lichens are
+  seen nowhere else, except in the mangrove swamps of the
+  sea-coast.</p>
+
+  <p>I cannot account for the great humidity of the watershed as
+  compared with the rest of the country, but by the prevailing
+  winds and the rains being from the south-east, and thus from the
+  Indian Ocean: with this wind generally on the surface one can
+  observe an upper strong wind from the <a name="Page_324" id=
+  "Page_324"></a>north-west, that is, from the low humid West Coast
+  and Atlantic Ocean. The double strata of winds can easily be
+  observed when there are two sheets of clouds, or when burning
+  grass over scores of square miles sends up smoke sufficiently
+  high to be caught by the upper or north-west wind. These winds
+  probably meet during the heavy rains: now in August they overlap
+  each other. The probability arises from all continued rains
+  within the tropics coming in the opposite direction from the
+  prevailing wind of the year. Partial rains are usually from the
+  south-east.</p>
+
+  <p>The direction of the prevailing wind of this region is well
+  marked on the islands in Lake Bangweolo: the trunks are bent away
+  from the south-east, and the branches on that side are stunted or
+  killed; while those on the north-west run out straight and make
+  the trees appear lopsided. The same bend away from the south-east
+  is seen on all exposed situations, as in the trees covering the
+  brow of a hill. At Kizinga, which is higher than the Lake, the
+  trees are covered with lichens, chiefly on the south-east sides,
+  and on the upper surfaces of branches, running away horizontally
+  to or from the north-west. Plants and trees, which elsewhere in
+  Africa grow only on the banks of streams and other damp
+  localities, are seen flourishing all over the country: the very
+  rocks are covered with lichens, and their crevices with
+  ferns.</p>
+
+  <p>But that which demonstrates the humidity of the climate most
+  strikingly is the number of earthen sponges or oozes met with. In
+  going to Bangweolo from Kizinga, I crossed twenty-nine of these
+  reservoirs in thirty miles of latitude, on a south-east course:
+  this may give about one sponge for every two miles. The word
+  "Bog" conveys much of the idea of these earthen sponges; but it
+  is inseparably connected in our minds with peat, and these
+  contain not a particle of peat, they consist of black porous
+  earth, covered with a hard wiry grass, and a few other
+  damp-loving plants. <a name="Page_325" id="Page_325"></a>In many
+  places the sponges hold large quantities of the oxide of iron,
+  from the big patches of brown haematite that crop out everywhere,
+  and streams of this oxide, as thick as treacle, are seen moving
+  slowly along in the sponge-like small red glaciers. When one
+  treads on the black earth of the sponge, though little or no
+  water appears on the surface, it is frequently squirted up the
+  limbs, and gives the idea of a sponge. In the paths that cross
+  them, the earth readily becomes soft mud, but sinks rapidly to
+  the bottom again, as if of great specific gravity: the water in
+  them is always circulating and oozing. The places where the
+  sponges are met with are slightly depressed valleys without trees
+  or bushes, in a forest country where the grass being only a foot
+  or fifteen inches high, and thickly planted, often looks like a
+  beautiful glade in a gentleman's park in England. They are from a
+  quarter of a mile to a mile broad, and from two to ten or more
+  miles long. The water of the heavy rains soaks into the level
+  forest lands: one never sees runnels leading it off, unless
+  occasionally a footpath is turned to that use. The water,
+  descending about eight feet, comes to a stratum of yellow sand,
+  beneath which there is another stratum of fine white sand, which
+  at its bottom cakes, so as to hold the water from sinking
+  further.</p>
+
+  <p>It is exactly the same as we found in the Kalahari Desert, in
+  digging sucking places for water for our oxen. The water, both
+  here and there, is guided by the fine sand stratum into the
+  nearest valley, and here it oozes forth on all sides through the
+  thick mantle of black porous earth, which forms the sponge.
+  There, in the desert, it appears to damp the surface sands in
+  certain valleys, and the Bushmen, by a peculiar process, suck out
+  a supply. When we had dug down to the caked sand there years ago,
+  the people begged us not to dig further, as the water would all
+  run away; and we desisted, because we saw that the fluid poured
+  in from the fine sand all round the well, but none came from
+  <a name="Page_326" id="Page_326"></a>the bottom or cake. Two
+  stupid Englishmen afterwards broke through the cake in spite of
+  the entreaties of the natives, and the well and the whole valley
+  dried up hopelessly. Here the water, oozing forth from the
+  surface of the sponge mantle, collects in the centre of the
+  slightly depressed valley which it occupies, and near the head of
+  the depression forms a sluggish stream; but further down, as it
+  meets with more slope, it works out for itself a deeper channel,
+  with perpendicular banks, with, say, a hundred or more yards of
+  sponge on each side, constantly oozing forth fresh supplies to
+  augment its size. When it reaches rocky ground it is a perennial
+  burn, with many aquatic plants growing in its bottom. One
+  peculiarity would strike anyone: the water never becomes
+  discoloured or muddy. I have seen only one stream muddied in
+  flood, the Choma, flowing through an alluvial plain in
+  Lop&eacute;r&eacute;. Another peculiarity is very remarkable; it
+  is, that after the rains have entirely ceased, these burns have
+  their largest flow, and cause inundations. It looks as if towards
+  the end of the rainy season the sponges were lifted up by the
+  water off their beds, and the pores and holes, being enlarged,
+  are all employed to give off fluid. The waters of inundation run
+  away. When the sponges are lifted up by superabundance of water,
+  all the pores therein are opened: as the earthen mantle subsides
+  again, the pores act like natural valves, and are partially
+  closed, and by the weight of earth above them, the water is thus
+  prevented from running away altogether; time also being required
+  to wet all the sand through which the rains soak, the great
+  supply may only find its way to the sponge a month or so after
+  the great rains have fallen.</p>
+
+  <p>I travelled in Lunda, when the sponges were all
+  supersaturated. The grassy sward was so lifted up that it was
+  separated into patches or tufts, and if the foot missed the row
+  of tufts of this wiry grass which formed the native path, down
+  one plumped up to the thigh in slush. At that time <a name=
+  "Page_327" id="Page_327"></a>we could cross the sponge only by
+  the native paths, and the central burn only where they had placed
+  bridges: elsewhere they were impassable, as they poured off the
+  waters of inundation: our oxen were generally bogged&mdash;all
+  four legs went down up to the body at once. When they saw the
+  clear sandy bottom of the central burn they readily went in, but
+  usually plunged right over head, leaving their tail up in the air
+  to show the nervous shock they had sustained.</p>
+
+  <p>These sponges are a serious matter in travelling. I crossed
+  the twenty-nine already mentioned at the end of the fourth month
+  of the dry season, and the central burns seemed then to have
+  suffered no diminution: they were then from calf to waist deep,
+  and required from fifteen to forty minutes in crossing; they had
+  many deep holes in the paths, and when one plumps therein every
+  muscle in the frame receives a painful jerk. When past the
+  stream, and apparently on partially dry ground, one may jog in a
+  foot or more, and receive a squirt of black mud up the thighs: it
+  is only when you reach the trees and are off the sour land that
+  you feel secure from mud and leeches. As one has to strip the
+  lower part of the person in order to ford them, I found that
+  often four were as many as we could cross in a day. Looking up
+  these sponges a bird's-eye view would closely resemble the
+  lichen-like vegetation of frost on window panes; or that
+  vegetation in Canada-balsam which mad philosophical instrument
+  makers <i>will</i> put between the lenses of the object-glasses
+  of our telescopes. The flat, or nearly flat, tops of the
+  subtending and transverse ridges of this central country give
+  rise to a great many: I crossed twenty-nine, a few of the feeders
+  of Bangweolo, in thirty miles of latitude in one direction. Burns
+  are literally innumerable: rising on the ridges, or as I formerly
+  termed them mounds, they are undoubtedly the primary or ultimate
+  sources of the Zambezi, Congo, and Nile: by <a name="Page_328"
+  id="Page_328"></a>their union are formed streams of from thirty
+  to eighty or 100 yards broad, and always deep enough to require
+  either canoes or bridges. These I propose to call the secondary
+  sources, and as in the case of the Nile they are drawn off by
+  three lines of drainage, they become the head waters (the
+  <i>caput</i> Nili) of the river of Egypt.</p>
+
+  <p>Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has watched
+  over and enabled me to discover what I have done. There is still
+  much to do, and if health and protection be granted I shall make
+  a complete thing of it.</p>
+
+  <p>[Then he adds in a note a little further on:&mdash;]</p>
+
+  <p>But few of the sponges on the watershed ever dry; elsewhere
+  many do; the cracks in their surface are from 15 to 18 inches
+  deep, with lips from 2 to 3 inches apart. Crabs and other animals
+  in clearing out their runs reveal what I verified by actually
+  digging wells at Kizinga and in Kabuir&eacute;, and also observed
+  in the ditches 15 feet deep dug by the natives round many of
+  their stockades, that the sponge rests on a stratum of fine white
+  washed sand. These cracks afford a good idea of the effect of the
+  rains: the partial thunder-showers of October, November,
+  December, and even January, produce no effect on them; it is only
+  when the sun begins to return from his greatest southern
+  declination that the cracks close their large lips. The whole
+  sponge is borne up, and covers an enormous mass of water, oozing
+  forth in March and April forming the inundations. These floods in
+  the Congo, Zambesi, and Nile require different times to reach the
+  sea. The bulk of the Zambesi is further augmented by the greater
+  rains finding many pools in the beds of its feeders filled in
+  February, as soon as the sun comes north.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Mem.</i>&mdash;In apparent contradiction of the foregoing,
+  so far as touches the sources of the Zambesi, Syde bin Habib
+  informed me a few days ago that he visited the sources <a name=
+  "Page_329" id="Page_329"></a>of the Liambai and of the Lufira.
+  Each comes out of a fountain; the Lufira one is called Changozi,
+  and is small, and in a wood of large trees S.W. of Katanga; the
+  fountain of the Liambai is so large that one cannot call to a
+  person on the other side, and he appears also very small
+  there&mdash;the two fountains are just five hours distant from
+  each other. He is well acquainted with the Liambai (Leeambye),
+  where I first met him. Lunga, another river, comes out of nearly
+  the same spot which goes into the Leu&ntilde;ge, Kafu&eacute;
+  (?). Lufira is less than Kalongosi up there; that is less than 80
+  or 200 yards, and it has deep waterfalls in it. The Kon&eacute;
+  range comes down north, nearly to Mpm&eacute;to's. Mkana is the
+  chief of the stone houses in the Baloba, and he may be reached by
+  three days of hard travelling from Mpw&eacute;to's; Lufira is
+  then one long day west. As Muabo refuses to show me his "mita,"
+  "miengelo," or "mpamankanana" as they are called, I must try and
+  get to those of the Baloba of Mkana.</p>
+
+  <p>Senegal swallows pair in the beginning of December.</p>
+
+  <p><i>Note</i>.&mdash;Inundation.</p>
+
+  <p>The inundation I have explained in the note on the climate as
+  owing to the sponges being supersaturated in the greater rains,
+  when the sun returns from his greatest southern declination, the
+  pores are then all enlarged, and the water of inundation flows in
+  great volume even after the rains have entirely ceased. Something
+  has probably to be learned from the rainfall at or beyond the
+  equator, as the sun pursues his way north beyond my beat, but the
+  process I have named accounts undoubtedly for the inundations of
+  the Congo and Zambesi. The most acute of the ancients ascribed
+  the inundation with Strabo to summer rains in the south; others
+  to snows melting on the Mountains of the Moon; others to the
+  northern wind&mdash;the Etesian breezes blowing directly against
+  the mouth of the river and its current: others, with less reason,
+  ascribed the <a name="Page_330" id="Page_330"></a>inundation to
+  its having its source in the ocean: Herodotus and Pliny to
+  evaporation following the course of the sun.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st September, 1868.</i>&mdash;Two men come from
+  Casembe&mdash;I am reported killed. The miningo-tree distils
+  water, which falls in large drops. The Luapula seen when the
+  smoke clears off. Fifty of Syde bin Omar's people died of
+  small-pox in Usafa. <i>Mem.</i> Vaccine virus. We leave on the
+  25th, east bank of Moisi River, and cross the Luongo on the 28th,
+  the Lofubu on the 1st October, and the Kalongosi on the 7th.</p>
+
+  <p>[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been unable to find opportunity
+  to make daily entries at this period. All was turmoil and panic,
+  and his life appears to have been in imminent danger. Briefly we
+  see that on his way back from the Lake he found that his Arab
+  associates of the last few months had taken up Casembe's cause
+  against the devastating hordes of Mazitu, who had swept down on
+  these parts, and had repulsed them. But now a fresh complication
+  arose! Casembe and Chikumbi became alarmed lest the Arabs,
+  feeling their own power, should turn upon them and possess the
+  whole country, so they joined forces and stormed Kombokombo, one
+  of the leading Arabs, and with what success we shall see. It is a
+  fair specimen of the unaccountable complications which dog the
+  steps of the traveller, where war is afoot, and render life a
+  misery. He writes as follows on the 5th October:&mdash;]</p>
+
+  <p>I was detained in the Imbozhwa country much longer than I
+  relished. The inroad of the Mazitu, of which Casembe had just
+  heard when we reached the Mofw&eacute;, was the first cause of
+  delay: he had at once sent off men to verify the report, and
+  requested me to remain till his messengers should return. This
+  foray produced a state of lawlessness in the country, which was
+  the main reason of our further detention.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331"></a>The Imbozhwa fled before
+  the marauders, and the Banyamwezi or Garaganza, who had come in
+  numbers to trade in copper, took on themselves the duty of
+  expelling the invaders, and this, by means of their muskets, they
+  did effectually, then, building stockades they excited the
+  jealousy of the Imbozhwa lords of the soil who, instead of
+  feeling grateful, hated the new power thus sprung up among them!
+  They had suffered severely from the sharp dealing of the
+  strangers already, and Chikumbi made a determined assault on the
+  stockade of Kombokombo in vain.</p>
+
+  <p>Confusion prevailed all over the country. Some Banyamwezi
+  assumed the offensive against the Ba&uuml;si, who resemble the
+  Imbozhwa, but are further south, and captured and sold some
+  prisoners: it was in this state of things that, as already
+  mentioned, I was surrounded by a party of furious Imbozhwa. A
+  crowd stood within fifteen or twenty yards with spears poised and
+  arrows set in the bowstrings, and some took aim at me: they took
+  us for plunderers, and some plants of ground-nuts thrown about
+  gave colour to their idea. One good soul helped us away&mdash;a
+  blessing be on him and his. Another chief man took us for Mazitu!
+  In this state of confusion Cazembe heard that my party had been
+  cut off: he called in Moenempanda and took the field in person,
+  in order to punish the Banyamwezi, against whom he has an old
+  grudge for killing a near relative of his family, selling
+  Ba&uuml;si, and setting themselves up as a power in his
+  country.</p>
+
+  <p>The two Arab traders now in the country felt that they must
+  unite their forces, and thereby effect a safe retreat. Chikumbi
+  had kept twenty-eight tusks for Syde bin Omar safely; but the
+  coming of Casembe might have put it out of his power to deliver
+  up his trust in safety, for an army here is often quite lawless:
+  each man takes to himself what he can. When united we marched
+  from Kizinga on 23rd <a name="Page_332" id=
+  "Page_332"></a>September together, built fences every night to
+  protect ourselves and about 400 Banyamwezi, who took the
+  opportunity to get safely away. Kombokombo came away from his
+  stockade, and also part of the way, but cut away by night across
+  country to join the parties of his countrymen who still love to
+  trade in Katanga copper. We were not molested, but came nearly
+  north to the Kalongosi. Syde parted from us, and went away east
+  to Mozamba, and thence to the coast.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> The
+      allusion is to Mrs. Livingstone's grave.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> At one
+      season the long grass which covers the face of the country
+      catches fire. For some three months the air is consequently
+      filled with smoke.&mdash;ED.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><a name=
+  "Page_333" id="Page_333"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. III. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinn&eacute;. Notes on climate.
+    Separation of Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on
+    Victoria Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad
+    Bogharib. Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed
+    attack. A parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the
+    Imbozhwa country. Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's
+    brother. Singular custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws.
+    Rumour of Baker's Expedition. Christmas dinners.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p><i>11th October, 1868.</i>&mdash;From Kizinga north the
+  country is all covered with forest, and thrown up into ridges of
+  hardened sandstone, capped occasionally with fine-grained clay
+  schist. Trees often appear of large size and of a species closely
+  resembling the gum-copal tree; on the heights masukos and
+  rhododendrons are found, and when exposed they are bent away from
+  the south-east. Animals, as buffaloes and elephants, are
+  plentiful, but wild. Rivulets numerous, and running now as
+  briskly as brooks do after much rain in England. All on the
+  south-western side of Kalongosi are subjects of Casembe, that is
+  Balunda, or Imbozhwa.</p>
+
+  <p>It was gratifying to see the Banyamwezi carrying their sick in
+  cots slung between two men: in the course of time they tired of
+  this, and one man, who was carried several days, remained with
+  Chuma. We crossed the Luongo far above where we first became
+  acquainted with it, and near its source in Urungu or Usungu
+  Hills, then the Lobubu, <a name="Page_334" id="Page_334"></a>a
+  goodly stream thirty yards broad and rapid with fine falls above
+  our ford, which goes into Kalongosi.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th October, 1868.</i>&mdash;Cross the Papusi, and a mile
+  beyond the Lu&eacute;na of forty yards and knee deep; here we
+  were met by about 400 of Kabanda's men, as if they were come to
+  dispute our passage at the ford: I went over; all were civil; but
+  had we shown any weakness they would no doubt have taken
+  advantage of it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>7th October, 1868.</i>&mdash;We came to the Kalongosi,
+  flowing over five cataracts made by five islets in a place called
+  Kabw&eacute;rum&eacute;. Near the Mebamba a goodly rivulet joins
+  it.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th October, 1868.</i>&mdash;We came to the Kalongosi at
+  the ford named Mosolo: by pacing I found it to be 240 yards
+  broad, and thigh deep at the end of the dry season, it ran so
+  strongly that it was with difficulty I could keep my feet. Here
+  500 at least of Nsama's people stood on the opposite shore to
+  know what we wanted. Two fathoms of calico were sent over, and
+  then I and thirty guns went over to protect the people in the
+  ford: as we approached they retired. I went to them, and told
+  them that I had been to Nsama's, and he gave me a goat and food,
+  and we were good friends: some had seen me there, and they now
+  crowded to look till the Arabs thought it unsafe for me to be
+  among them: if I had come with bared skin they would have fled.
+  All became friendly: an elephant was killed, and we remained two
+  days buying food. We passed down between the ranges of hills on
+  the east of Moero, the path we followed when we first visited
+  Casembe.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th and 21st October, 1868.</i>&mdash;From the Luao I went
+  over to the chief village of Muabo, and begged him to show me the
+  excavations in his country: he declined, by saying that I came
+  from a crowd of people, and must go to Kabwabwata, and wait
+  awhile there, meanwhile he would think what he should do, whether
+  to refuse or invite me to come. He <a name="Page_335" id=
+  "Page_335"></a>evidently does not wish me to see his strongholds.
+  All his people could go into them, though over ten thousand: they
+  are all abundantly supplied with water, and they form the
+  storehouses for grain.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd October, 1868.</i>&mdash;We came to Kabwabwata, and I
+  hope I may find a way to other underground houses. It is probable
+  that they are not the workmanship of the ancestors of the present
+  occupants, for they ascribe their formation invariably to the
+  Deity, Mulungu or R&eacute;za: if their forefathers had made
+  them, some tradition would have existed of them.</p>
+
+  <p><i>23rd October, 1868.</i>&mdash;Syde bin Habib came over from
+  Mpw&eacute;to's; he reports Lualaba and Lufira flowing into the
+  Lake of Kinkonza. Lungabal&eacute; is paramount chief of Rua.</p>
+
+  <p>Mparahala horns measured three feet long and three inches in
+  diameter at the base: this is the yellow kualata of Makololo,
+  bastard gemsbuck of the Dutch.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th, 29th, and 30th October, 1868.</i>&mdash;Salem bin
+  Habib was killed by the people in Rua: he had put up a tent and
+  they attacked it in the night, and stabbed him through it. Syde
+  bin Habib waged a war of vengeance all through Rua after this for
+  the murder of his brother: Sef's raid may have led the people to
+  the murder.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th October, 1868.</i>&mdash;In coming north in September
+  and October, the last months of the dry season, I crossed many
+  burns flowing quite in the manner of our brooks at home, after a
+  great deal of rain; here, however, the water was clear, and the
+  banks not abraded in the least. Some rivulets had a tinge of
+  white in them, as if of felspar in disintegrating granite; some
+  nearly stagnant burns had as if milk and water in them, and some
+  red oxide of iron.</p>
+
+  <p>Where leeches occur they need no coaxing to bite, but fly at
+  the white skin like furies, and refuse to let go: with the
+  fingers benumbed, though the water is only 60&deg;, one may twist
+  them round the finger and tug, but they slip <a name="Page_336"
+  id="Page_336"></a>through. I saw the natives detaching them with
+  a smart slap of the palm, and found it quite effectual.</p>
+
+  <p>Swifts, Senegal swallows, and common dark-bellied swallows
+  appeared at Kizinga in the beginning of October: other birds, as
+  drongo shrikes, a bird with a reddish bill, but otherwise like a
+  grey linnet, keep in flocks yet. <i>(5th December.)</i> They pair
+  now. The kite came sooner than the swallows; I saw the first at
+  Bangweolo on the 20th July, 1868.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st November, 1868.</i>&mdash;At Kabwabwata; we are waiting
+  till Syde comes up that we may help him. He has an enormous
+  number of tusks and bars of copper, sufficient it seems for all
+  his people to take forward, going and returning three times over.
+  He has large canoes on the Lake, and will help us in return.</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd November, 1868.</i>&mdash;News came yesterday from
+  Mpw&eacute;to's that twenty-one slaves had run away from Syde bin
+  Habib at one time: they were Rua people, and out of the chains,
+  as they were considered safe when fairly over the Lualaba, but
+  they showed their love of liberty on the first opportunity.
+  Mpw&eacute;to is suspected to have harboured them, or helped them
+  over the river; this will probably lead to Syde attacking him, as
+  he has done to so many chiefs in Rua. In this case Mpw&eacute;to
+  will have no sympathy; he is so wanting in the spirit of
+  friendliness to others.</p>
+
+  <p><i>3rd November, 1868.</i>&mdash;Sent off men to hasten Syde
+  onwards. We start in two or three days.</p>
+
+  <p>The oldest map known to be in existence is the map of the
+  Ethiopian Goldmines, dating from the time of Sethos I., the
+  father of Rameses II., long enough before the time of the bronze
+  tablet of Aristagoras, on which was inscribed the circuit of the
+  whole earth, and all the sea and all rivers. (Tylor, p. 90,
+  quoted from Birch's <i>Archaeologia</i>, vol. xxxiv. p. 382.)
+  Sesostris was the first to distribute his maps.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337"></a><i>8th November,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;Syde bin Habib is said to have amassed 150
+  frasilahs of ivory = 5250 lbs., and 300 frasilahs of copper =
+  10,500 lbs. With one hundred carriers he requires to make four
+  relays, or otherwise make the journey four times over at every
+  stage. Twenty-one of his slaves ran away in one night, and only
+  four were caught again: they were not all bought, nor was the
+  copper and ivory come at by fair means; the murder of his brother
+  was a good excuse for plunder, murder, and capture. Mpw&eacute;to
+  is suspected of harbouring them as living on the banks of the
+  Lualaba, for they could not get over without assistance from his
+  canoes and people. Mpw&eacute;to said, "Remove from me, and we
+  shall see if they come this way." They are not willing to deliver
+  fugitives up. Syde sen&pound; for Elmas, the only thing of the
+  Mullam or clerical order here, probably to ask if the Koran
+  authorizes him to attack Mpw&eacute;to. Mullam will reply, "Yes,
+  certainly. If Mpw&eacute;to won't restore your slaves, take what
+  you can by force." Syde's bloodshed is now pretty large, and he
+  is becoming afraid for his own life; if he ceases not, he will
+  himself be caught some day.</p>
+
+  <p>Ill of fever two days. Better and thankful.</p>
+
+  <div class="blockquot">
+    <p>[Whilst waiting to start for Ujiji, Livingstone was intently
+    occupied on the great problem of the Nile and the important
+    part he had taken so recently in solving it: he writes at this
+    date as follows:&mdash;]</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The discovery of the sources of the Nile is somewhat akin in
+  importance to the discovery of the North-West Passage, which
+  called forth, though in a minor degree, the energy, the
+  perseverance, and the pluck of Englishmen, and anything that does
+  that is beneficial to the nation and to its posterity. The
+  discovery of the sources of the Nile possesses, moreover, an
+  element of interest which the North-<a name="Page_338" id=
+  "Page_338"></a>West Passage never had. The great men of antiquity
+  have recorded their ardent desires to know the fountains of what
+  Homer called "<i>Egypt's heaven-descended spring.</i>" Sesostris,
+  the first who in camp with his army made and distributed maps,
+  not to Egyptians only, but to the Scythians, naturally wished to
+  know the springs, says Eustathius, of the river on whose banks he
+  flourished. Alexander the Great, who founded a celebrated city at
+  this river's-mouth, looked up the stream with the same desire,
+  and so did the Caesars. The great Julius Caesar is made by Lucan
+  to say that he would give up the civil war if he might but see
+  the fountains of this far-famed river. Nero Caesar sent two
+  centurions to examine the "<i>Caput Nili</i>." They reported that
+  they saw the river rushing with great force from two rocks, and
+  beyond that it was lost in immense marshes. This was probably
+  "native information," concerning the cataracts of the Nile and a
+  long space above them, which had already been enlarged by others
+  into two hills with sharp conical tops called Crophi and
+  Mophi&mdash;midway between which lay the fountains of the
+  Nile&mdash;fountains which it was impossible to fathom, and which
+  gave forth half their water to Ethiopia in the south, and the
+  other half to Egypt in the north: that which these men failed to
+  find, and that which many great minds in ancient times longed to
+  know, has in this late age been brought to light by the patient
+  toil and laborious perseverance of Englishmen.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p>
+
+  <p>In laying a contribution to this discovery at the feet of his
+  countrymen, the writer desires to give all the honour to his
+  predecessors which they deserve. The work of Speke <a name=
+  "Page_339" id="Page_339"></a>and Grant is deserving of the
+  highest commendation, inasmuch as they opened up an immense tract
+  of previously unexplored country, in the firm belief they were
+  bringing to light the head of the Nile. No one can appreciate the
+  difficulties of their feat unless he has gone into new country.
+  In association with Captain Burton, Speke came much nearer to the
+  "coy fountains," than at the Victoria Nyanza, but they all turned
+  their backs on them. Mr. Baker showed courage and perseverance
+  worthy of an Englishman in following out the hints given by Speke
+  and Grant. But none rises higher in my estimation than the Dutch
+  lady Miss Tinn&eacute;, who, after the severest domestic
+  afflictions, nobly persevered in the teeth of every difficulty,
+  and only turned away from the object of her expedition, after
+  being assured by Speke and Grant that they had already discovered
+  in Victoria Nyanza the sources she sought. Had they not given
+  their own mistaken views, the wise foresight by which she
+  provided a steamer, would inevitably have led her to pull up, and
+  by canoes to reach Lake Bangweolo's sources full five hundred
+  miles south of the most southerly part of Victoria Nyanza. She
+  evidently possesses some of the indomitable pluck of Van Tromp,
+  whose tomb every Englishman who goes to Holland must see.<a name=
+  "FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href=
+  "#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> Her doctor was made a
+  baron&mdash;were she not a Dutch lady already we think she ought
+  to be made a duchess.</p>
+
+  <p>By way of contrast with what, if I live through it, I shall
+  have to give, I may note some of the most prominent ideas
+  entertained of this world-renowned river. Ptolemy, a geographer
+  who lived in the second century, and was not a king of Egypt,
+  with the most ancient maps made the Nile rise from the "Montes
+  Lunae," between ten and twelve south lat., by six several streams
+  which flowed north into <a name="Page_340" id="Page_340"></a>two
+  Lakes, situated east and west of each other. These streams flowed
+  about west of his river Rhapta, or Raptus, which is probably our
+  Rovuma or Louma. This was very near the truth, but the Mountains
+  of the Moon cannot be identified with the Lokinga, or mountains
+  of Bisa, from which many of the springs do actually arise.
+  Unless, indeed, we are nearer to the great alterations in climate
+  which have taken place, as we are supposed to be nearer the epoch
+  of the mammoth, aurochs, and others. Snow never lay in these
+  latitudes, on altitudes of 6000 feet above the sea.</p>
+
+  <p>Some of the ancients supposed the river to have its source in
+  the ocean. This was like the answer we received long ago from the
+  natives on the Liambai or Upper Zambesi when inquiring for its
+  source. "It rises in Leoatl&eacute;, the white man's sea, or
+  M&eacute;ts&eacute;hula." The second name means the "<i>grazing
+  water</i>," from the idea of the tides coming in to graze; as to
+  the freshness of the Liambai waters, they could offer no
+  explanation.</p>
+
+  <p>Some again thought that the Nile rose in Western Africa, and
+  after flowing eastwards across the Continent, turned northwards
+  to Egypt; others still thought that it rose in India! and others
+  again, from vague reports collected from their slaves, made it
+  and several other rivers rise but of a great inland sea.
+  <i>Ach&eacute;lunda</i> was said to be the name of this Lake, and
+  in the language of Angola, it meant the "sea." It means only
+  "<i>of</i>" or "<i>belonging to Lunda</i>," a country. It might
+  have been a sea that was spoken of on a whole, or anything.
+  "<i>Nyassi, or the sea</i>," was another name and another
+  blunder. "Nyassi" means long grass, and nothing else. Nyanza
+  contracted into Nyassa, means lake, marsh, any piece of water, or
+  even the dry bed of a lake. The <i>N</i> and <i>y</i> are joined
+  in the mouth, and never pronounced separately. The
+  "Naianza"!&mdash;it would be nearer the mark to say the
+  Nancy!</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341"></a>Of all theoretical
+  discoverers, the man who ran in 200 miles of Lake and placed them
+  on a height of some 4000 feet at the north-west end of Lake
+  Nyassa, deserves the highest place. Dr. Beke, in his guess, came
+  nearer the sources than most others, but after all he pointed out
+  where they would not be found. Old Nile played the theorists a
+  pretty prank by having his springs 500 miles south of them all! I
+  call mine a contribution, because it is just a hundred years
+  (1769) since Bruce, a greater traveller than any of us, visited
+  Abyssinia, and having discovered the sources of the Blue Nile, he
+  thought that he had then solved the ancient problem. Am I to be
+  cut out by some one discovering southern fountains of the river
+  of Egypt, of which I have now no conception?</p>
+
+  <p>David Livingstone.</p>
+
+  <p>[The tiresome procrastination of Mohamad and his horde was not
+  altogether an unmixed evil. With so many new discoveries in hand
+  Livingstone had an opportunity for working out several problems,
+  and instituting comparisons between the phenomena of Inner Africa
+  and the well-marked changes which go on in other parts of the
+  world. We find him at this time summing them up as
+  follows:&mdash;]</p>
+
+  <p>The subject of change of climate from alteration of level has
+  not received the investigation it deserves. Mr. Darwin saw reason
+  to believe that very great alterations of altitude, and of course
+  of climate, had taken place in South America and the islands of
+  the Pacific; the level of a country above the sea I believe he
+  thought to be as variable as the winds. A very great alteration
+  of altitude has also taken place in Africa; this is apparent on
+  the sea-coast of Angola, and all through the centre of the
+  country, where large rivers which once flowed southwards and
+  westwards are no longer able to run in these directions: the
+  general desiccation of the country, <a name="Page_342" id=
+  "Page_342"></a>as seen in the beds of large rivers and of
+  enormous lakes, tells the same tale. Portions of the east coast
+  have sunk, others have risen, even in the Historic Period. The
+  upper or northern end of the Red Sea has risen, so that the place
+  of the passage of the children of Israel is now between forty and
+  fifty miles from Suez, the modern head of the Gulf. This
+  upheaval, and not the sand from the desert, caused the disuse of
+  the ancient canal across the Isthmus: it took place since the
+  Mohamadan conquest of Egypt. The women of the Jewish captivities
+  were carried past the end of the Red Sea and along the
+  Mediterranean in ox-waggons, where such cattle would now all
+  perish for want of water and pasture; in fact, the route to
+  Assyria would have proved more fatal to captives then than the
+  middle passage has been to Africans since. It may be true that,
+  <i>as the desert is now</i>, it could not have been traversed by
+  the multitude under Moses&mdash;the German strictures put forth
+  by Dr. Colenso, under the plea of the progress of science, assume
+  that no alteration has taken place in either desert or
+  climate&mdash;but a scientific examination of the subject would
+  have ascertained what the country was then when it afforded
+  pasture to "flocks and herds, and even very much cattle." We know
+  that Eziongeber was, with its docks, on the seashore, with water
+  in abundance for the ship-carpenters: it is now far from the head
+  of the Elaic Gulf in a parched desert. Aden, when visited by the
+  Portuguese Balthazar less than 300 years ago, was a perfect
+  garden; but it is now a vast conglomeration of black volcanic
+  rocks, with so little vegetation, that, on seeing flocks of goats
+  driven out, I thought of the Irish cabman at an ascent slamming
+  the door of his cab and whispering to his fare, "Whish, it's to
+  desave the baste: he thinks that you are out walking." Gigantic
+  tanks in great numbers and the ruins of aqueducts appear as
+  relics of the past, where no rain now falls for three or more
+  years at a time. They have all dried up by a change <a name=
+  "Page_343" id="Page_343"></a>of climate, possibly similar and
+  cotemporaneous with that which has dried up the Dead Sea.</p>
+
+  <p>The journey of Ezra was undertaken after a fast at the River
+  Ahava. With nearly 50,000 people he had only about 8000 beasts of
+  burden. He was ashamed to ask a band of soldiers and horsemen for
+  protection in the way. It took about four months to reach
+  Jerusalem; this would give five and a half or six miles a day, as
+  the crow flies, which is equal to twelve or fifteen miles of
+  surface travelled over; this bespeaks a country capable of
+  yielding both provisions and water, such as cannot now be found.
+  Ezra would not have been ashamed to ask for camels to carry
+  provisions and water had the country been as dry as it is now.
+  The prophets, in telling all the woes and miseries of the
+  captivities, never allude to suffering or perishing by thirst in
+  the way, or being left to rot in the route as African slaves are
+  now in a well-watered country. Had the route to Assyria been then
+  as it is now, they could scarcely have avoided referring to the
+  thirst of the way; but everything else is mentioned except
+  that.</p>
+
+  <p>Respecting this system of Lakes in the centre of Africa, it
+  will possibly occur to some that Lake Nyassa may give a portion
+  of its water off from its northern end to the Nile, but this
+  would imply a Lake giving off a river at both ends; the country,
+  too, on the north-north-west and north-east rises to from 4000 to
+  6000 feet above the sea, and there is not the smallest indication
+  that Nyassa and Tanganyika were ever connected. Lake Liemba is
+  the most southerly part of Tanganyika; its latitude is 8&deg; 46'
+  south; the most northerly point of Lake Nyassa is probably
+  10&deg; 56'-8&deg; 46' = 2&deg; 10'. Longitude of Liemba 34&deg;
+  57'-31&deg; 57' = 3&deg; 00' = 180' of longitude. Of latitude
+  130' + 180' = 310', two-thirds of which is about 206', the
+  distance between two Lakes; and no evidence of fissure, rent, or
+  channel now appears on the highland between.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344"></a>Again, Liemba is 3000
+  feet above the sea. The altitude of Nyassa is 1200/x800 feet.
+  Tanganyika would thus go to Nyassa&mdash;down the Shir&eacute;
+  into the Zambesi and the sea, if a passage existed even below
+  ground.</p>
+
+  <p>The large Lake, said to exist to the north-west of Tanganyika
+  might, however, send a branch to the Nile; but the land rises up
+  into a high ridge east of this Lake.</p>
+
+  <p>It is somewhat remarkable that the impression which
+  intelligent Suaheli, who have gone into Karagw&eacute;, have
+  received is, that the Kitangul&eacute; flows from Tanganyika into
+  Lake Ukerew&eacute;. One of Syde bin Omar's people put it to me
+  very forcibly the other day by saying, "Kitangul&eacute; is an
+  arm of Tanganyika!" He had not followed it out; but that Dagara,
+  the father of Rumanyika, should have in his lifetime seriously
+  proposed to deepen the upper part of it, so as to allow canoes to
+  pass from his place to Ujiji, is very strong evidence of the
+  river being large on the Tanganyika side. We know it to be of
+  good size, and requiring canoes on the Ukerew&eacute; side.
+  Burton came to the very silly conclusion that when a native said
+  a river ran one way, he meant that it flowed in the opposite
+  direction. Ujiji, in Rumanyika's time, was the only mart for
+  merchandise in the country. Garaganza or Galaganza has most trade
+  and influence now. (<i>14th Sept., 1868.</i>)</p>
+
+  <p>Okara is the name by which Victoria Nyanza is known on the
+  eastern side, and an arm of it, called Kavirondo, is about forty
+  miles broad. Lake Baringo is a distinct body of water, some fifty
+  miles broad, and giving off a river called Ngardabash, which
+  flows eastwards into the Somauli country. Lake Naibash is more to
+  the east than Kavirondo, and about fifty miles broad too: it
+  gives off the River Kid&eacute;t&eacute;, which is supposed to
+  flow into Lufu. It is south-east of Kavirondo; and Kilimanjaro
+  can be seen from its shores; in the south-east Okara, Naibash and
+  Baringo seem to have been run by Speke into one Lake. Okara, in
+  the south, <a name="Page_345" id="Page_345"></a>is full of large
+  islands, and has but little water between them; that little is
+  encumbered with aquatic vegetation called "Tikatika," on which,
+  as in lakelet Gumadona, a man can walk. Waterlilies and duckweed
+  are not the chief part of this floating mass. In the north Okara
+  is large. Burukinegg&eacute; land is the boundary between the
+  people of Kavirondo and the Gallahs with camels and horses.</p>
+
+  <p><i>9th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;Copied several Notes written
+  at Kizinga and elsewhere, and at Kabwabwata resume Journal. Some
+  slight showers have cooled the air a little: this is the hottest
+  time of the year.</p>
+
+  <p><i>10th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;A heavier shower this
+  morning will have more of the same effect.</p>
+
+  <p><i>11th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;Muabo visited this village,
+  but refuses to show his underground houses.</p>
+
+  <p><i>13th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;I was on the point of
+  starting without Mohamad Bogharib, but he begged me not to go
+  till he had settled some weighty matter about a wife he is to get
+  at Ujiji from Mpamari; we must have the new moon, which will
+  appear in three days, for lucky starting, and will leave Syde bin
+  Habib at Chisabi's. Meanwhile two women slaves ran away, and Syde
+  has got only five back of his twenty-one fugitives. Mullam was
+  mild with his decisions, and returned here; he informed me that
+  many of Syde's slaves, about forty, fled. Of those who cannot
+  escape many die, evidently broken-hearted; they are captives, and
+  not, as slaves often are, criminals sold for their guilt, hence
+  the great mortality caused by being taken to the sea to be, as
+  they believe, fatted and eaten. Poor things! Heaven help
+  them!</p>
+
+  <p>Ujiji is the pronunciation of the Banyamwezi; and they call
+  the people Wayeiy&eacute;, exactly as the same people styled
+  themselves on the River Zougha, near Ngami.</p>
+
+  <p>[It will be remembered that several of his men refused to
+  <a name="Page_346" id="Page_346"></a>go to Lake Bangweolo with
+  him: they seem now to have thought better of it, and on his
+  return are anxious to come back to their old master who, for his
+  part, is evidently willing to overlook a good deal.]</p>
+
+  <p>I have taken all the runaways back again; after trying the
+  independent life they will behave better. Much of their ill
+  conduct may be ascribed to seeing that after the flight of the
+  Johanna men I was entirely dependent on them: more enlightened
+  people often take advantage of men in similar circumstances;
+  though I have seen pure Africans come out generously to aid one
+  abandoned to their care. I have faults myself.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;The Arabs have some
+  tradition of the Emir Musa coming as far south as the Jagga
+  country. Some say he lived N.E. of Sunna, now Mt&eacute;za; but
+  it is so mixed up with fable and tales of the Genii (Mageni),
+  that it cannot refer to the great Moses, concerning whose
+  residence at Mer&ouml;e and marriage of the king of Ethiopia's
+  daughter there is also some vague tradition further north: the
+  only thing of interest to me is the city of Mer&ouml;e, which is
+  lost, and may, if built by ancient Egyptians, still be found.</p>
+
+  <p>The Africans all beckon with the hand, to call a person, in a
+  different way from what Europeans do. The hand is held, as
+  surgeons say, <i>prone</i>, or palm down, while we beckon with
+  the hand held <i>supine</i>, or palm up: it is quite natural in
+  them, for the idea in their mind is to lay the hand on the person
+  and draw him towards them. If the person wished for is near, say
+  forty yards off, the beckoner puts out his right hand on a level
+  with his breast, and makes the motion of catching the other by
+  shutting the fingers and drawing him to himself: if the person is
+  further off, this motion is exaggerated by lifting up the right
+  hand as high as he can; he brings it down with a sweep towards
+  the ground, the hand being still held prone as before. In
+  <a name="Page_347" id="Page_347"></a>nodding assent they differ
+  from us by lifting up the chin instead of bringing it down as we
+  do. This lifting up the chin looks natural after a short usage
+  therewith, and is perhaps purely conventional, not natural, as
+  the other seems to be.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;I am tired out by waiting
+  after finishing the Journal, and will go off to-morrow north.
+  Simon killed a zebra after I had taken the above resolution, and
+  this supply of meat makes delay bearable, for besides flesh, of
+  which I had none, we can buy all kinds of grain and pulse for the
+  next few days. The women of the adjacent villages crowd into this
+  as soon as they hear of an animal killed, and sell all the
+  produce of their plantations for meat.</p>
+
+  <p><i>17th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;It is said that on the road
+  to the Great Salt Lake in America the bones and skulls of animals
+  lie scattered everywhere, yet travellers are often put to great
+  straits for fuel: this, if true, is remarkable among a people so
+  apt in turning everything to account as the Americans. When we
+  first steamed up the River Shir&eacute; our fuel ran out in the
+  elephant marsh, where no trees exist, and none could be reached
+  without passing through many miles on either side of impassable
+  swamp, covered with reeds, and intersected everywhere with deep
+  branches of the river. Coming to a spot where an elephant had
+  been slaughtered, I at once took the bones on board, and these,
+  with the bones of a second elephant, enabled us to steam briskly
+  up to where wood abounded. The Scythians, according to Herodotus,
+  used the bones<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id=
+  "FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class=
+  "fnanchor">[68]</a> of the animal sacrificed to boil the flesh,
+  the Guachos of South America do the same when they have no fuel:
+  the ox thus boils himself.</p>
+
+  <p><i>18th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;A pretty little woman ran
+  away from her husband, and came to "Mpamari." Her husband brought
+  three hoes, a checked cloth, and two strings of large neck
+  <a name="Page_348" id="Page_348"></a>beads to redeem her; but
+  this old fellow wants her for himself, and by native law he can
+  keep her as his slave-wife. Slave-owners make a bad
+  neighbourhood, for the slaves, are always running away and the
+  headmen are expected to restore the fugitives for a bit of cloth.
+  An old woman of Mpmari fled three times; she was caught
+  yesterday, and tied to a post for the young slaves to plague her.
+  Her daughter burst into an agony of tears on seeing them tying
+  her mother, and Mpamari ordered her to be tied to the mother's
+  back for crying; I interceded for her, and she was let go. He
+  said, "You don't care, though Sayed Majid loses his money." I
+  replied, "Let the old woman go, she will be off again to-morrow."
+  But they cannot bear to let a slave have freedom. I don't
+  understand what effect his long prayers and prostrations towards
+  the "Kibla" have on his own mind, they cannot affect the minds of
+  his slaves favourably, nor do they mine, though I am as
+  charitable as most people.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;I prepared to start to-day,
+  but Mohamad Bogharib has been very kind, and indeed cooked meals
+  for me from my arrival at Casembe's, 6th May last, till we came
+  here, 22nd October; the food was coarse enough, but still it was
+  food; and I did not like to refuse his genuine hospitality. He
+  now begged of me not to go for three days, and then he would come
+  along with me! Mpamari also entreated. I would not have minded
+  him, but they have influence with the canoe-men on Tanganyika,
+  and it is well not to get a bad name if possible.</p>
+
+  <p><i>20th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;Mohamad Bogharib purposed to
+  attack two villages near to this, from an idea that the people
+  there concealed his runaway slaves; by remaining I think that I
+  have put a stop to this, as he did not like to pillage while I
+  was in company: Mpamari also turned round towards peace, though
+  he called all the riff-raff to muster, and caracoled among them
+  like an old broken-winded horse. One <a name="Page_349" id=
+  "Page_349"></a>man became so excited with yelling, that the
+  others had to disarm him, and he then fell down as if in a fit;
+  water poured on his head brought him to calmness. We go on the
+  22nd.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd November, 1868.</i>&mdash;This evening the Imbozhwa,
+  or Babemba, came at dusk, and killed a Wanyamwezi woman on one
+  side of the village, and a woman and child on the other side of
+  it. I took this to be the result of the warlike demonstration
+  mentioned above; but one of Mohamad Bogharib's people, named Bin
+  Juma, had gone to a village on the north of this and seized two
+  women and two girls, in lieu of four slaves who had run away. The
+  headman, resenting this, shot an arrow into one of Bin Junta's
+  party, and Bin Juma shot a woman with his gun.</p>
+
+  <p>This, it turned out, had roused the whole country, and next
+  morning we were assailed by a crowd of Imbozhwa on three sides:
+  we had no stockade, but the men built one as fast as the enemy
+  allowed, cutting down trees and carrying them to the line of
+  defence, while others kept the assailants at bay with their guns.
+  Had it not been for the crowd of Banyamwezi which we have, who
+  shot vigorously with their arrows, and occasionally chased the
+  Imbozhwa, we should have been routed. I did not go near the
+  fighting, but remained in my house to defend my luggage if
+  necessary. The women went up and down the village with sieves, as
+  if winnowing, and singing songs, and lullilooing, to encourage
+  their husbands and friends who were fighting, each had a branch
+  of the Ficus indica in her hand, which she waved, I suppose as a
+  charm. About ten of the Imbozhwa are said to have been killed,
+  but dead and wounded were at once carried off by their
+  countrymen. They continued the assault from early dawn till 1
+  P.M., and showed great bravery, but they wounded only two with
+  their arrows. Their care to secure the wounded was admirable: two
+  or three at once seized the fallen man, and ran off with him,
+  though pursued by a great crowd of Banyamwezi with spears, and
+  fired at by <a name="Page_350" id="Page_350"></a>the
+  Suaheli&mdash;Victoria-cross fellows truly many of them were!
+  Those who had a bunch of animals' tails, with medicine, tied to
+  their waists, came sidling and ambling up to near the unfinished
+  stockade, and shot their arrows high up into the air, to fall
+  among the Wanyamwezi, then picked up any arrows on the field, ran
+  back, and returned again. They thought that by the ambling gait
+  they avoided the balls, and when these whistled past them they
+  put down their heads, as if to allow them to pass over; they had
+  never encountered guns before. We did not then know it, but
+  Muabo, Phuta, Nguru&eacute;, Sandaruko, and Chapi, were the
+  assailants, for we found it out by the losses each of these five
+  chiefs sustained.</p>
+
+  <p>It was quite evident to me that the Suaheli Arabs were quite
+  taken aback by the attitude of the natives; they expected them to
+  flee as soon as they heard a gun fired in anger, but instead of
+  this we were very nearly being cut off, and should have been but
+  for our Banyamwezi allies. It is fortunate that the attacking
+  party had no success in trying to get Mpw&eacute;to and
+  Karembw&eacute; to join them against us, or it would have been
+  more serious still.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;The Imbozhwa, or Babemba
+  rather, came early this morning, and called on Mohamad to come
+  out of his stockade if he were a man who could fight, but the
+  fence is now finished, and no one seems willing to obey the
+  taunting call: I have nothing to do with it, but feel thankful
+  that I was detained, and did not, with my few attendants, fall
+  into the hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. They kept up the
+  attack to-day, and some went out to them, fighting till noon:
+  when a man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi brought
+  his head and put it on a pole on the stockade&mdash;six heads
+  were thus placed. A fine young man was caught and brought in by
+  the Wanyamwezi, one stabbed him behind, another cut his forehead
+  with an axe, I called in vain to them not to kill him. As a last
+  appeal, <a name="Page_351" id="Page_351"></a>he said to the crowd
+  that surrounded him, "Don't kill me, and I shall take you to
+  where the women are." "You lie," said his enemies; "you intend to
+  take us where we may be shot by your friends;" and they killed
+  him. It was horrible: I protested loudly against any repetition
+  of this wickedness, and the more sensible agreed that prisoners
+  ought not to be killed, but the Banyamwezi are incensed against
+  the Babemba because of the women killed on the 22nd.</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;The Babemba kept off on the
+  third day, and the Arabs are thinking it will be a good thing if
+  we get out of the country unscathed. Men were sent off on the
+  night of the 23rd to Syde bin Habib for powder and help. Mohamad
+  Bogharib is now unwilling to take the onus of the war: he blames
+  Mpamari, and Mpamari blames him; I told Mohamad that the war was
+  undoubtedly his work, inasmuch as Bin Juma is his man, and he
+  approved of his seizing the women.</p>
+
+  <p>He does not like this, but it is true; he would not have
+  entered a village of Casembe or Moamba or Chikumbi as he did
+  Chapi's man's village: the people here are simply men of more
+  metal than he imagined, and his folly in beginning a war in
+  which, if possible, his slaves will slip through his hands is
+  apparent to all, even to himself. Syde sent four barrels of
+  gunpowder and ten men, who arrived during last night.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;Two of Muabo's men came over
+  to bring on a parley; one told us that he had been on the south
+  side of the village before, and heard one man say to another "mo
+  pig&eacute;" (shoot him). Mpamari gave them a long oration in
+  exculpation, but it was only the same everlasting, story of
+  fugitive slaves. The slave-traders cannot prevent them from
+  escaping, and impudently think that the country people ought to
+  catch them, and thus be their humble servants, and also the
+  persecutors of their own countrymen! If they cannot keep them,
+  why buy them&mdash;why put their money into a bag with holes?</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352"></a>It is exactly what took
+  place in America&mdash;slave-owners are bad neighbours
+  everywhere. Canada was threatened, England browbeaten, and the
+  Northerners all but kicked on the same score, and all as if
+  property in slaves had privileges which no other goods have. To
+  hear the Arabs say of the slaves after they are fled, "Oh, they
+  are bad, bad, very bad!" (and they entreated me too to free them
+  from the yoke), is, as the young ladies say, "too absurd." The
+  chiefs also who do not apprehend fugitives, they too are
+  "bad."</p>
+
+  <p>I proposed to Mohamad Bogharib to send back the women seized
+  by Bin Juma, to show the Babemba that he disapproved of the act
+  and was willing to make peace, but this was too humiliating; I
+  added that their price as slaves was four barrels of gunpowder or
+  160 dollars, while slaves lawfully bought would have cost him
+  only eight or ten yards of calico each. At the conclusion of
+  Mpamari's speech the four barrels of gunpowder were exhibited,
+  and so was the Koran, to impress them (Muabo's people) with an
+  idea of their great power.</p>
+
+  <p><i>28th and 29th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;It is proposed to
+  go and force our way if we can to the north, but all feel that
+  that would be a fine opportunity for the slaves to escape, and
+  they would not be loth to embrace it; this makes it a serious
+  matter, and the Koran is consulted at hours which are
+  auspicious.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th November, 1868.</i>&mdash;Messengers sent to Muabo to
+  ask a path, or in plain words protection from him; Mpamari
+  protests his innocence of the whole affair.</p>
+
+  <p><i>1st December, 1868.</i>&mdash;Muabo's people over again;
+  would fain send them to make peace with Chapi!</p>
+
+  <p><i>2nd December, 1868.</i>&mdash;The detention is excessively
+  vexatious to me. Muabo sent three slaves as offers of
+  peace&mdash;a fine self-imposed, but he is on our south side, and
+  we wish to go north.</p>
+
+  <p><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353"></a><i>3rd December,
+  1868.</i>&mdash;A party went to-day to clear the way to the
+  north, but were warmly received by Babemba with arrows; they came
+  back with one woman captured, and they say that they killed one
+  man: one of themselves is wounded, and many others in danger:
+  others who went east were shot at, and wounded too.</p>
+
+  <p><i>4th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;A party went east, and were
+  fain to flee from the Babemba, the same thing occurred on our
+  west, and to-day <i>(5th)</i> all were called to strengthen the
+  stockade for fear that the enemy may enter uninvited. The slaves
+  would certainly flee, and small blame to them though they did.
+  Mpamari proposed to go off north by night, but his people
+  objected, as even a child crying would arouse the Babemba, and
+  reveal the flight, so finally he sent off to ask Syde what he
+  ought to do, whether to retire by day or by night; probably
+  entreating Syde to come and protect him.</p>
+
+  <p>A sort of idol is found in every village in this part, it is
+  of wood, and represents the features, markings and fashion of the
+  hair of the inhabitants: some have little huts built for
+  them&mdash;others are in common houses. The Babemba call them
+  <i>Nkisi</i> ("Sancan" of the Arabs): the people of Rua name one
+  <i>Kalubi</i>; the plural, <i>Tulubi</i>; and they present pombe,
+  flour, bhang, tobacco, and light a fire for them to smoke by.
+  They represent the departed father or mother, and it is supposed
+  that they are pleased with the offerings made to their
+  representatives, but all deny that they pray to them. Casembe has
+  very many of these Nkisi; one with long hair, and named
+  <i>Motombo</i>, is carried in front when he takes the field;
+  names of dead chiefs are sometimes given to them. I have not met
+  with anyone intelligent enough to explain if prayers are ever
+  made to anyone; the Arabs who know their language, say they have
+  no prayers, and think that at death there is an end of the whole
+  man, but other things lead me to believe this is erroneous.
+  Slaves <a name="Page_354" id="Page_354"></a>laugh at their
+  countrymen, in imitation of their masters, and will not reveal
+  their real thoughts: one said that they believed in two Superior
+  Beings&mdash;R&eacute;za above, who kills people, and R&eacute;za
+  below, who carries them away after death.</p>
+
+  <p><i>6th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;Ten of Syde bin Habib's
+  people came over, bringing a letter, the contents of which
+  neither Mpamari nor Mohamad cares to reveal. Some think, with
+  great probability, that he asks, "Why did you begin a war if you
+  wanted to leave so soon? Did you not know that the country people
+  would take advantage of your march, encumbered as you will be by
+  women and slaves?" Mohamad Bogharib called me to ask what advice
+  I could give him, as all his own advice, and devices too, had
+  been lost or were useless, and he did not know what to do. The
+  Banyamwezi threatened to go off by night and leave him, as they
+  are incensed against the Babemba, and offended because the Arabs
+  do not aid them in wreaking their vengeance upon them.</p>
+
+  <p>I took care not to give any advice, but said, if I had been or
+  was in his place, I would have sent or would send back Bin Juma's
+  captives, to show that I disapproved of his act&mdash;the first
+  in the war&mdash;and was willing to make peace with Chapi. He
+  said that he did not know that Bin Juma would capture these
+  people; that Bin Juma had met some natives with fish, and took
+  ten by force, that the natives, in revenge, caught three
+  Banyamwezi slaves, and Bin Juma then gave one slave to them as a
+  fine, but Mohamad did not know of this affair either. I am of
+  opinion, however, that he was fully aware of both matters, and
+  Mpamari's caracoling showed that he knew it all, though now he
+  denies it.</p>
+
+  <p>Bin Juma is a long, thin, lanky Suaheli, six feet two high,
+  with a hooked nose and large lips: I told Mohamad that if he were
+  to go with us to Manyuema, the whole party would be cut off. He
+  came here, bought a slave-boy, and <a name="Page_355" id=
+  "Page_355"></a>allowed him to escape; then browbeat Chapi's man
+  about him (and he says, three others); and caught ten in lieu of
+  him, of which Mohamad restored six: this was the origin of the
+  war. Now that we are in the middle of it, I must do as Mohamad
+  does in going off either by day or by night. It is unreasonable
+  to ask my advice now, but it is felt that they have very
+  unjustifiably placed me in a false position, and they fear that
+  Syed Majid will impute blame to them, meanwhile Syde bin Habib
+  sent a private message to me to come with his men to him, and
+  leave this party.</p>
+
+  <p>I perceive that the plan now is to try and clear our way of
+  Chapi, and then march, but I am so thoroughly disgusted with this
+  slave-war, that I think of running the risk of attack by the
+  country people, and go off to-morrow without Mohamad Bogharib,
+  though I like him much more than I do Mpamari or Syde bin Habib.
+  It is too glaring hypocrisy to go to the Koran for guidance while
+  the stolen women, girls, and fish, are in Bin Juma's hands.</p>
+
+  <p><i>8th and 9th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;I had to wait for the
+  Banyamwezi preparing food: Mohamad has no authority over them, or
+  indeed over anyone else. Two Babemba men came in and said that
+  they had given up fighting, and begged for their wives, who had
+  been captured by Syde's people on their way here: this reasonable
+  request was refused at first, but better counsels prevailed, and
+  they were willing to give something to appease the anger of the
+  enemy, and sent back six captives, two of whom were the wives
+  prayed for.</p>
+
+  <p>[At last he makes a start on the 11th of December with the
+  Arabs, who are bound eastwards for Ujiji. It is a motley group,
+  composed of Mohamad and his friends, a gang of Unyamwezi
+  hangers-on, and strings of wretched slaves yoked together in
+  their heavy slave-sticks. Some <a name="Page_356" id=
+  "Page_356"></a>carry ivory, others copper, or food for the march,
+  whilst hope and fear, misery and villainy, may be read off on the
+  various faces that pass in line out of this country, like a
+  serpent dragging its accursed folds away from the victim it has
+  paralysed with its fangs.]</p>
+  <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+  <p><i>11th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;We marched four hours
+  unmolested by the natives, built a fence, and next day crossed
+  the Lokinda River and its feeder the Mookosi; here the people
+  belonged to Chisabi, who had not joined the other Babemba. We go
+  between two ranges of tree-covered mountains, which are
+  continuations of those on each side of Moero.</p>
+
+  <p><i>12th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;The tiresome tale of slaves
+  running away was repeated again last night by two of Mpamari's
+  making off, though in the yoke, and they had been with him from
+  boyhood. Not one good-looking slave-woman is now left of Mohamad
+  Bogharib's fresh slaves; all the pretty ones obtain favour by
+  their address, beg to be unyoked, and then escape. Four hours
+  brought us to many villages of Chisabi and the camp of Syde bin
+  Habib in the middle of a set-in rain, which marred the
+  demonstration at meeting with his relative Mpamari; but the women
+  braved it through, wet to the skin, and danced and lullilooed
+  with "draigled" petticoats with a zeal worthy of a better cause,
+  as the "penny-a-liners" say. It is the custom for the trader who
+  receives visitors to slaughter goats, and feed all his guests for
+  at least two days, nor was Syde wanting in this hospitality,
+  though the set-in rain continuing, we did not enjoy it as in fine
+  weather.</p>
+
+  <p><i>14th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;Cotton-grass and brackens
+  all over the country show the great humidity of Marungu. Rain
+  daily; but this is not the great rain which falls when the sun
+  comes back south over our heads.</p>
+
+  <p><i>15th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;March two hours only to the
+  range of Tamba. A pretty little light-grey owl, called
+  "nkw&eacute;kw&eacute;," <a name="Page_357" id="Page_357"></a>was
+  killed by a native as food; a black ring round its face and its
+  black ears gave it all the appearance of a cat, whose habits it
+  follows.</p>
+
+  <p><i>16th to 18th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;A brother of Syde
+  bin Habib died last night: I had made up my mind to leave the
+  whole party, but Syde said that Chisabi was not to be trusted,
+  and the death of his brother having happened, it would not be
+  respectful to leave him to bury his dead alone. Six of his slaves
+  fled during the night&mdash;one, the keeper of the others. A
+  Mobemba man, who had been to the coast twice with him, is said to
+  have wished a woman who was in the chain, so he loosed five out,
+  and took her off; the others made clear heels of it, and now that
+  the grass is long and green, no one can trace their course.</p>
+
+  <p>Syde told me that the slaves would not have detained him, but
+  his brother's death did. We buried the youth, who has been ill
+  three months. Mpamari descended into the grave with four others;
+  a broad cloth was held over them horizontally, and a little
+  fluctuation made, as if to fan those who were depositing the body
+  in the side excavation made at the bottom: when they had finished
+  they pulled in earth, and all shoved it towards them till the
+  grave was level. Mullam then came and poured a little water into
+  and over the grave, mumbled a few prayers, at which Mpamari said
+  aloud to me, "Mullam does not let his voice be heard;" and Mullam
+  smiled to me, as if to say, "Loud enough for all I shall get:"
+  during the ceremony the women were all wailing loudly. We went to
+  the usual sitting-place, and shook hands with Syde, as if
+  receiving him back again into the company of the living.</p>
+
+  <p>Syde told me previously to this event that he had fought the
+  people who killed his elder brother Salem bin Habib, and would
+  continue to fight them till all their country was spoiled and a
+  desolation: there is no forgiveness with Moslems for bloodshed.
+  He killed many, and took many <a name="Page_358" id=
+  "Page_358"></a>slaves, ivory, and copper: his tusks number over
+  200, many of large size.</p>
+
+  <p><i>19th and 20th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;To Chisabi's
+  village stockade, on the left bank of the Lofunso, which flows in
+  a marshy valley three miles broad. Eight of Mohamad Bogharib's
+  slaves fled by night, one with his gun and wife; a, large party
+  went in search, but saw nothing of them.</p>
+
+  <p>To-day an elephant was killed, and they sent for the meat, but
+  Chisabi ordered the men to let his meat alone: experience at
+  Kabwabwata said, "Take the gentle course," so two fathoms of
+  calico and two hoes were sent to propitiate the chief; Chisabi
+  then demanded half the meat and one tusk: the meat was given, but
+  the tusk was mildly refused: he is but a youth, and this is only
+  the act of his counsellors. It was replied that Casembe,
+  Chikumbi, Nsama, Mer&eacute;r&eacute;, made no demand at all: his
+  counsellors have probably heard of the Portuguese self-imposed
+  law, and wish to introduce it here, but both tusks were
+  secured.</p>
+
+  <p><i>22nd December, 1868.</i>&mdash;We crossed the Lofunso
+  River, wading three branches, the first of forty-seven yards,
+  then the river itself, fifty yards, and neck deep to men and
+  women of ordinary size. Two were swept away and drowned; other
+  two were rescued by men leaping in and saving them, one of whom
+  was my man Susi. A crocodile bit one person badly, but was
+  struck, and driven off. Two slaves escaped by night; a woman
+  loosed her husband's yoke from the tree, and got clear off.</p>
+
+  <p><i>24th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;Five sick people detain us
+  to-day; some cannot walk from feebleness and purging brought on
+  by sleeping on the damp ground without clothes.</p>
+
+  <p>Syde bin Habib reports a peculiar breed of goats in Rua,
+  remarkably short in the legs, so much so, that they cannot travel
+  far; they give much milk, and become very fat, but the meat is
+  indifferent. Gold is found at Katanga in the pool of a waterfall
+  only: it probably comes from the rocks <a name="Page_359" id=
+  "Page_359"></a>above this. His account of the Lofu, or, as he
+  says, West Lualaba, is identical with that of his cousin, Syde
+  bin Omar; it flows north, but west of Lufira, into the Lake of
+  Kinkonza, so named after the chief. The East Lualaba becomes very
+  large, often as much as six or eight miles broad, with many
+  inhabited islands, the people of which, being safe from invasion,
+  are consequently rapacious and dishonest, and their chiefs,
+  Moeng&eacute; and Nyamakunda, are equally lawless. A hunter,
+  belonging to Syde, named Kabwebwa, gave much information gleaned
+  during his hunting trips; for instance, the Lufira has nine
+  feeders of large size; and one, the Lekulw&eacute;, has also nine
+  feeders; another, the Kisungu, is covered with, "tikatika," by
+  which the people cross it, though it bends under their weight; he
+  also ascribes the origin of the Lufira and the Lualaba West, or
+  Lofu, with the Liambai to one large earthen mound, which he calls
+  "segulo," or an anthill!</p>
+
+  <p><i>25th December, 1868, Christmas Day.</i>&mdash;We can buy
+  nothing except the very coarsest food&mdash;not a goat or
+  fowl&mdash;while Syde, having plenty of copper, can get all the
+  luxuries. We marched past Mount Katanga, leaving it on our left,
+  to the River Kap&eacute;ta, and slaughtered a favourite kid to
+  make a Christmas dinner. A trading-party came up from Ujiji; they
+  said that we were ten camps from Tanganyika. They gave an
+  erroneous report that a steamer with a boat in tow was on Lake
+  Chowamb&eacute;&mdash;an English one, too, with plenty of cloth
+  and beads on board. A letter had come from Abdullah bin Salem,
+  Moslem missionary at Mt&eacute;sa's, to Ujiji three months ago
+  with this news.</p>
+
+  <p><i>26th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;We marched up an ascent
+  2-1/2 hours, and got on to the top of one of the mountain ridges,
+  which generally run N. and S. Three hours along this level top
+  brought us to the Kibaw&eacute; River, a roaring rivulet beside
+  villages. There were no people on the height over which we came,
+  though the country is very fine&mdash;green and gay <a name=
+  "Page_360" id="Page_360"></a>with varying shades of that colour.
+  We passed through patches of brackens five feet high and gingers
+  in flower, and were in a damp cloud all day. Now and then a
+  drizzle falls in these parts, but it keeps all damp only, and
+  does not show in the rain-gauge. Neither sun nor stars
+  appear.</p>
+
+  <p><i>27th and 28th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;Remain on Sunday,
+  then march and cross five rivulets about four yards wide and knee
+  deep, going to the Lofunso. The grass now begins to cover and
+  hide the paths; its growth is very rapid: blobs of water lie on
+  the leaves all day, and keep the feet constantly wet by falling
+  as we pass.</p>
+
+  <p><i>29th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;We kept well on the ridge
+  between two ranges of hills; then went down, and found a
+  partially-burned native stockade, and lodged in it; the fires of
+  the Ujiji party had set the huts on fire after the party left. We
+  are in the Itand&eacute; district at the Nswiba River.</p>
+
+  <p><i>30th December, 1868.</i>&mdash;We now went due east, and
+  made a good deal of easting too from Mount Katanga on the
+  Lofunso, and crossed the River Lokivwa, twelve yards wide, and
+  very deep, with villages all about. We ascended much as we went
+  east. Very high mountains appeared on the N.W. The woods dark
+  gieen, with large patches of a paler hue.</p>
+
+  <p><i>31st December, 1868.</i>&mdash;We reached the Lofuko
+  yesterday in a pelting rain; not knowing that the camp with huts
+  was near, I stopped and put on a bernouse, got wet, and had no
+  dry clothes. Remain to-day to buy food. Clouds cover all the sky
+  from N.W. The river, thirty yards wide, goes to Tanganyika east
+  of this. Scenery very lovely.</p>
+
+  <div class="footnotes">
+    <h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> In 1827
+      Linant reached 13&deg; 30' N. on the White Nile. In 1841 the
+      second Egyptian, under D'Arnauld and Sabatier, explored the
+      river to 4&deg; 42' N., and Jomard published his work on
+      Limmoo and the River Habaiah. Dr. Beke and Mr. D'Abbadie
+      contributed their share to making the Nile better known. Brun
+      Rollet established a trading station in 1854 at Belema on the
+      Nile at 5&deg; N. lat.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> Miss
+      Tinn&eacute; succumbed to the dangers of African travelling
+      before Livingstone penned these just words of
+      appreciation.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href=
+      "#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> Ezek.
+      xxiv. 5.</p>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+
+  <h4>END OF VOL. I.</h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2), 1866-1868***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 16672-h.txt or 16672-h.zip *******</p>
+<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br />
+<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/6/7/16672</a></p>
+<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.</p>
+
+<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.</p>
+
+
+
+<pre>
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+<a href="https://gutenberg.org/license">https://gutenberg.org/license)</a>.
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS,' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit:
+https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Each eBook is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's
+eBook number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII,
+compressed (zipped), HTML and others.
+
+Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks replace the old file and take over
+the old filename and etext number.  The replaced older file is renamed.
+VERSIONS based on separate sources are treated as new eBooks receiving
+new filenames and etext numbers.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">https://www.gutenberg.org</a>
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+EBooks posted prior to November 2003, with eBook numbers BELOW #10000,
+are filed in directories based on their release date.  If you want to
+download any of these eBooks directly, rather than using the regular
+search system you may utilize the following addresses and just
+download by the etext year.
+
+<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/">https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/</a>
+
+    (Or /etext 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99,
+     98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90)
+
+EBooks posted since November 2003, with etext numbers OVER #10000, are
+filed in a different way.  The year of a release date is no longer part
+of the directory path.  The path is based on the etext number (which is
+identical to the filename).  The path to the file is made up of single
+digits corresponding to all but the last digit in the filename.  For
+example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at:
+
+https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/0/2/3/10234
+
+or filename 24689 would be found at:
+https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24689
+
+An alternative method of locating eBooks:
+<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL">https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL</a>
+
+*** END: FULL LICENSE ***
+</pre>
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp056.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp056.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..29880d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/fp056.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp062.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp062.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bd86b57
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/fp062.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp185.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp185.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1feaddb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/fp185.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp206.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp206.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..113b997
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/fp206.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp232.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp232.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fc13207
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/fp232.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/fp316.jpg b/16672-h/images/fp316.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a96dae7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/fp316.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/frontispiece.jpg b/16672-h/images/frontispiece.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..70b4639
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/frontispiece.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p003.jpg b/16672-h/images/p003.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fb785e5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p003.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p012.jpg b/16672-h/images/p012.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..faeb473
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p012.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p019.png b/16672-h/images/p019.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..494e056
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p019.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p020.png b/16672-h/images/p020.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..76a433b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p020.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p030.png b/16672-h/images/p030.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0e3d22
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p030.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p049.png b/16672-h/images/p049.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9811d0d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p049.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p079.png b/16672-h/images/p079.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a70d054
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p079.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p089.png b/16672-h/images/p089.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..25096ae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p089.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p110.jpg b/16672-h/images/p110.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..958dcd9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p110.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p125.jpg b/16672-h/images/p125.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..19be76b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p125.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p127.png b/16672-h/images/p127.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed3f9c6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p127.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p140.png b/16672-h/images/p140.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3e76064
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p140.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p146.jpg b/16672-h/images/p146.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..46ed2ba
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p146.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p155.png b/16672-h/images/p155.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..52d08fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p155.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p185.jpg b/16672-h/images/p185.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9d92c88
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p185.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p186.jpg b/16672-h/images/p186.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..60173e9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p186.jpg
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p302.png b/16672-h/images/p302.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fb516d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p302.png
diff --git a/16672-h/images/p307.jpg b/16672-h/images/p307.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..128aa18
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672-h/images/p307.jpg
diff --git a/16672.txt b/16672.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f01b0f9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,12554 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by
+David Livingstone, Edited by Horace Waller
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868
+
+
+Author: David Livingstone
+
+Editor: Horace Waller
+
+Release Date: September 7, 2005  [eBook #16672]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID
+LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2),
+1866-1868***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Steven Gibbs and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 16672-h.htm or 16672-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h/16672-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
+IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.
+
+Continued by a Narrative of His Last Moments and Sufferings,
+Obtained from His Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi,
+
+by
+
+HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,
+Rector Of Twywell, Northampton.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. I.
+[1866-1868]
+
+With Portrait, Maps, and Illustrations.
+
+London:
+John Murray, Albemarle Street.
+
+1874
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the midst of the universal sorrow caused by the intelligence that
+Dr. Livingstone had lost his life at the furthest point to which he
+had penetrated in his search for the true sources of the Nile, a faint
+hope was indulged that some of his journals might survive the
+disaster: this hope, I rejoice to say, has been realized beyond the
+most sanguine expectations.
+
+It is due, in the first place, to his native attendants, whose
+faithfulness has placed his last writings at our disposal, and also to
+the reader, before he launches forth upon a series of travels and
+scientific geographical records of the most extraordinary character,
+to say that in the following narrative of seven years' continuous work
+and new discovery _no break whatever occurs_.
+
+We have not to deplore the loss, by accident or carelessness, of a
+single entry, from the time of Livingstone's departure from Zanzibar
+in the beginning of 1866 to the day when his note-book dropped from
+his hand in the village of Ilala at the end of April, 1873.
+
+I trust it will not be uninteresting if I preface the history with a
+few words on the nature of these journals and writings as they have
+come to hand from Central Africa.
+
+It will be remembered that when Mr. Stanley returned to England in
+1872, Dr. Livingstone entrusted to his care a very large Letts' diary,
+sealed up and consigned to the safe keeping of his daughter, Miss
+Agnes Livingstone. Upon the confirmation of the worst news, this book
+was examined and found to contain a considerable portion of the notes
+which her father made during his travels previous to the time of Mr.
+Stanley's meeting him.
+
+The Doctor's custom was always to have metallic note-books in use, in
+which the day's jottings were recorded. When time and opportunity
+served, the larger volume was posted up with scrupulous care.
+
+It seems, however, that in the last three or four years of his life
+this excellent rule had to give way to the toils of travel and the
+exhaustion of most distressing illnesses. Whilst in the Manyuema
+country he ran out of note-books, ink, and pencils, and had to resort
+to shifts which at first made it a very debateable point whether the
+most diligent attempt at deciphering would suceeed after all. Such
+pocket-books as remained at this period of his travels were utilized
+to the last inch of paper. In some of them we find lunar observations,
+the names of rivers, and the heights of hills advancing towards the
+middle from one end, whilst from the other the itinerary grows day by
+day, interspersed with map routes of the march, botanical notes, and
+carefully made drawings. But in the mean time the middle portion of
+the book was filling up with calculations, private memoranda, words
+intended for vocabularies, and extracts from books, whilst here and
+there the stain of a pressed flower causes indistinctness; yet the
+thread of the narrative runs throughout. Noting but his invariable
+habit of constantly repeating the month and year obviates hopeless
+confusion. Nor is this all; for pocket-books gave out at last, and old
+newspapers, yellow with African damp, were sewn together, and his
+notes were written across the type with a substitute for ink made from
+the juice of a tree. To Miss Livingstone and to the Rev. C.A. Alington
+I am very much indebted for help in the laborious task of deciphering
+this portion of the Doctor's journals. Their knowledge of his
+handwriting, their perseverance, coupled with good eyes and a strong
+magnifying-glass, at last made their task a complete success.
+
+In comparing this great mass of material with the journal brought
+home by Mr. Stanley, one finds that a great deal of most interesting
+matter can be added. It would seem that in the hurry of writing and
+copying despatches previous to his companion's departure, the Doctor
+rapidly entered up as much from his note-books as time and space
+permitted.
+
+Most fortunately, he still carried the greater part of these original
+notes till the time of his death, so that they were forthcoming when
+his effects were subsequently saved.
+
+This brings us to the second instalment of the journals, for we have
+thus acknowledged the first to have reached us on Mr. Stanley's
+return.
+
+When the battered tin travelling-case, which was with Livingstone to
+the last, was opened at the Foreign Office in the spring of this year,
+not only were these valuable papers disclosed which I have mentioned,
+but it was found also that Livingstone had kept a copious journal
+during his stay at Unyanyembe in some copy-books, and that when his
+stock of note-books was replenished a daily record of his subsequent
+travels had been made.
+
+It was with fear and trembling that one looked to see whether all had
+been saved or only part, but with satisfaction and thankfulness I have
+subsequently discovered that his men preserved every single line,
+besides his maps, which now come to light for the first time.
+
+Thus much on the material of the diaries: it remains to say a few
+words on the Map which accompanies these journals. It has been
+compiled from Dr. Livingstone's original drawings and note-books, with
+the corrections and additions he made from time to time as the work of
+exploration progressed, and the details of physical geography became
+clearer to him. The compiler, Mr. John Bolton[1], implicitly
+following the original outline of the drawing as far as possible, has
+honestly endeavoured to give such a rendering of the entire work, as
+the Doctor would have done had he lived to return home, and
+superintend the construction; and I take this opportunity of
+expressing my sincere gratification that Mr. Bolton's rare technical
+skill, scientific knowledge, and unwearying labour have been available
+for the purpose.
+
+Amongst almost the last words that Livingstone wrote, I find an
+unfinished letter to myself, in which he gives me very clear and
+explicit directions concerning the geographical notes he had
+previously sent home, and I am but carrying out the sacred duty which
+is attached to a last wish when I call attention to the fact, that he
+particularly desired in this letter that _no positions gathered from
+his observations for latitude and longitude, nor for the levels of the
+Lakes, &c., should be considered correct till Sir Thomas Maclear had
+examined them_. The position of Casembe's town, and of a point near
+Pambette at the S.E., and of Lake Liemba (Tanganyika), have been
+computed and corrected by Sir T. Maclear and Dr. Mann. The
+observations for latitude were taken at short intervals, and where it
+has been possible to test them they have been found very correct, but
+I repeat that until the imprimatur of his old friend at the Cape of
+Good Hope stands over the whole of Livingstone's work, the map must be
+accepted as open to further corrections.
+
+The journey from Kabwabwata to Mparru has been inserted _entirely_
+from notes, as the traveller was too ill to mark the route: this is
+the only instance in all his wanderings where he failed to give some
+indication on his map of the nature of the ground over which he
+passed. The journey front Mikindany Bay to Lake Nyassa has also been
+laid down from his journal and latitudes in consequence of the section
+of this part of his route (which he left at Ujiji) not having arrived
+in England at this date.[2] It will be observed that the outline of
+Lake Nyassa differs from that on any published map: it has been drawn
+from the original exploratory survey of its southern shores made by
+Dr. Livingstone in 1861-3. For some reason this original plan was not
+adhered to by a former draughtsman, but the Lake has here been
+restored to a more accurate bearing and position.
+
+How often shall we see in the pages of this concluding chapter of his
+life, that unwavering determination which was pre-eminently the great
+characteristic of David Livingstone!
+
+Naturally endowed with unusual endurance, able to concentrate
+faculties of no ordinary kind upon whatever he took in hand, and with
+a dread of exaggeration which at times almost militated against the
+importance of some of his greatest discoveries, it may be doubted if
+ever Geographer went forth strengthened with so much true power. Let
+us add to these a sincere trust that slavery, the "great open sore of
+the world," as he called it, might under God's good guidance receive
+healing at his hands; a fervent hope that others would follow him
+after he had removed those difficulties which are comprised in a
+profound ignorance of the physical features of a new country, and we
+have the marching orders of him who left us in August 1865 never to
+return alive.
+
+Privileged to enjoy his near personal friendship for a considerable
+period in Africa, and also at home, it has been easy to trace--more
+especially from correspondence with him of late years--that
+Livingstone wanted just some such gigantic problem as that which he
+attacked at the last to measure his strength against: that he finally
+overrated and overtaxed it I think all must admit.
+
+He had not sufficiently allowed for an old wound which his
+constitution received whilst battling with dysentery and fever, on his
+celebrated journey across Africa, and this finally sapped his vital
+powers, and, through the irritation of exhaustion, insidiously clouded
+much of his happiness.
+
+Many of his old friends were filled with anxiety when they found that
+he intended to continue the investigation of the Nile sources, for the
+letters sent home by Mr. Stanley raised the liveliest apprehensions,
+which, alas! soon proved themselves well grounded.
+
+The reader must be warned that, however versed in books of African
+travel he may be, the very novelty of his situation amongst these
+pages will render him liable perhaps to a danger which a timely word
+may avert. Truly it may be said he has an _embarras de richesses!_ To
+follow an explorer who by his individual exertions has filled up a
+great space in the map of Africa, who has not only been the first to
+set foot on the shores of vast inland seas, but who, with the simple
+appliances of his bodily stature for a sounding pole and his stalwart
+stride for a measuring tape, lays down new rivers by the hundreds, is
+a task calculated to stagger him. It may be provoking to find
+Livingstone busily engaged in bargaining for a canoe upon the shores
+of Bangweolo, much as he would have secured a boat on his own native
+Clyde; but it was not in his nature to be subject to those paroxysms
+in which travellers too often indite their discoveries and
+descriptions.
+
+At the same time these journals will be found to contain innumerable
+notes on the habits of animals, birds, and fishes, many of them
+probably new species, and on phenomena in every direction which the
+keen eye searched out as the great traveller moved amongst some of the
+grandest scenes of this beautiful world: it may be doubted if ever eye
+so keen was backed by so much perseverance to shield it from a mere
+superficial habit of noticing. Let his adventures speak for
+themselves.
+
+Amongst the greatest facts recorded here the Geographer will perceive
+that the Doctor has placed it beyond doubt that Lake Nyassa belongs to
+a totally distinct system of waters to that which holds Lake
+Tanganyika, and the rivers running north and west. He was too
+sagacious to venture the surmise that Tanganyika has a subterranean
+outlet without having duly weighed the probabilities in the scale with
+his elaborate observations: the idea gathers force when we remember
+that in the case of limestone cliffs, water so often succeeds in
+breaking bounds by boring through the solid rock. No more interesting
+problem is left to solve, and we shall yet learn whether, through the
+caverns of Western Kabogo, this Lake adds its waters to the vast
+northerly flow of rivers we now read of for the first time, and which
+are undoubtedly amongst the largest in the world.
+
+I cannot close these remarks without stating how much obliged I am to
+Mr. James Young, F.R.S., of Kelly, for having ensured the presence of
+the Doctor's men, Chuma and Susi. Ever ready to serve his old friend
+Livingstone, he took care that they should be at my elbow so long as I
+required them to help me amidst the pile of MSS. and maps. Their
+knowledge of the countries they travelled in is most remarkable, and
+from constantly aiding their master by putting questions to the
+natives respecting the course of rivers, &c., I found them actual
+geographers of no mean attainments. In one instance, when in doubt
+concerning a particular watershed, to my surprise Susi returned a few
+hours afterwards with a plan of the whole system of rivers in the
+region under examination, and I found his sketch tally well with the
+Doctor's map. Known to me previously for years on the Zambesi and
+Shire it was a pleasure to have them with me for four months. Amongst
+other good services they have aided the artist by reproducing the
+exact facsimile of the hut in which Dr. Livingstone expired, besides
+making models of the "kitanda" on which he was carried, and of the
+village in which his body lay for fourteen days.
+
+I need not add what ready and valuable assistance I have derived from
+the Doctor's old companion Dr. Kirk wherever I have found it necessary
+to apply to him; some of the illustrations are more particularly owing
+to his kindness.
+
+It only remains to say that it has been thought advisable to retain
+all the strictly scientific matter found in Dr. Livingstone's journals
+for future publication. When one sees that a register of the daily
+rainfall was kept throughout, that the temperature was continually
+recorded, and that barometrical and hypsometrical observations were
+made with unflagging thoroughness of purpose year in and year out, it
+is obvious that an accumulated mass of information remains for the
+meteorologist to deal with separately, which alone must engross many
+months of labour.
+
+A constant sense of great responsibility has been mine throughout this
+task, for one cannot doubt that much of the future welfare of distant
+tribes and races depends upon Livingstone obtaining through these
+records a distinct hearing for their woes, their misery, and above all
+for their willingness to welcome men drawn towards them by motives
+like his.
+
+At the same time memory and affection have not failed to bring back
+vividly the man, the traveller, and the friend. May that which he has
+said in his journals suffer neither loss of interest nor depth of
+meaning at the compiler's hands.
+
+    HORACE WALLER.
+
+    TWYWELL RECTORY, THRAPSTON,
+    NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.
+    _Nov. 2, 1874._
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Attached to Mr. Stanford's staff.
+
+[2] In February last this section of the map (as we suppose), together
+with some of the Doctor's papers, was sent off from Ujiji by
+Lieutenant Cameron. Nothing, however, had arrived on the 22nd
+September at Zanzibar, and H.M. Consul, Captain Prideaux, entertained
+serious doubts at that time whether they would ever come to hand. All
+Livingstone's journals were saved through other instrumentality, as I
+have shown.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the sultan.
+    Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations
+    for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_
+    and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy
+    at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by
+    tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies.
+    The Makonde. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitane. Result
+    of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of
+    followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend.
+    Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher.
+    Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death
+    of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence.
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's.
+    Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of
+    slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyau metropolis.
+    Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen
+    cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness
+    of climate. The Waiyau people and their peculiarities. Regrets
+    at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans.
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The
+    Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the
+    Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja
+    or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage
+    across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake
+    shore. Blue ink. Chitane changes colour. The Nsaka fish.
+    Makalaose drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities.
+    Lake rivers. Mukate's. Lake Pamalombe. Mponda's. A slave gang.
+    Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains.
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited
+    chief. Reaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of
+    Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men
+    desert. Reaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once
+    more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of
+    Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the
+    transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance.
+    Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake.
+    The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin
+    Campbell. Milandos.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu.
+    Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed
+    between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings.
+    An old Nimrod. The Bua River. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of
+    transport. Chilobe. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou
+    bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the
+    Loangwa.
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great
+    hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats.
+    Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again.
+    Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the
+    great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out.
+    Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambeze. Death of
+    Chitane. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine
+    chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambeze. Reaches
+    Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off
+    letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications.
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with
+    fever. Threatening attitude of Chibue's people. Continued
+    illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty
+    of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake.
+    Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama.
+    Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to
+    principal Arab, Hamees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the
+    Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran.
+    Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo, to the eastward, and their
+    chief, Merere. Hamees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn.
+    Departure for Ponda. Native cupping.
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious
+    spider. Reaches the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees
+    marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride.
+    Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero.
+    Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders
+    on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake.
+    Information concerning the Chambeze and Luapula. Hears of Lake
+    Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of
+    Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofwe.
+    Arrives at Casembe's town.
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Grand reception of the traveller. Casembe and his wife. Long
+    stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwabwata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Salleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+    Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment.
+    Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of
+    Lake Chowambe. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold
+    supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib.
+    Birthday, 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpweto. Contemplates
+    visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of
+    Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Return to Casembe's. Obstructiveness
+    of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major
+    Monteiro. The line of Casembes. Casembe explains the connection
+    of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Moaeri. Arab sacrifice.
+    Kapika gets rid of his wife.
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June,
+    1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo.
+    Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bemba changed
+    to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's
+    stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th
+    July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake.
+    Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifunge Island. Immense
+    size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of
+    canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets
+    Banyamwezi. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed
+    state of country.
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. Ill. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinne. Notes on climate. Separation of
+    Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria
+    Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A
+    parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country.
+    Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular
+    custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's
+    Expedition. Christmas dinners.
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+    [DR. LIVINGSTONE, though no artist, had acquired a practice of
+    making rude sketches of scenes and objects, which have furnished
+    material for the Engravers in the Illustrations for this book.]
+
+Full-page Illustrations.
+
+    1. PORTRAIT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE. (From a Photograph by ANNAN)
+    2. SLAVERS REVENGING THEIR LOSSES
+    3. SLAVES ABANDONED
+    4. CHITAPANGWA RECEIVING DR. LIVINGSTONE
+    5. THE VILLAGE ON LAKE LIEMBA--TANGANYIKA
+    6. THE ARRIVAL OF HAMEES' BRIDE
+    7. DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO
+
+Smaller Illustrations.
+
+     1. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE, ZANZIBAR
+     2. DHOW USED FOR TRANSPORT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S CAMELS
+     3. A THORN-CLIMBER
+     4. TOMAHAWK AND AXE
+     5. CARVED DOOR, ZANZIBAR
+     6. TATTOO OF MATAMBWE
+     7. IMITATION OF BASKET-WORK IN POTTERY
+     8. DIGGING-STICK WEIGHTED WITH ROUND STONE
+     9. MANGANJA AND MACHINGA WOMEN
+    10. TATOO ON WOMEN
+    11. CARVED STOOL MADE OF A SINGLE WOODEN BLOCK
+    12. WOMEN'S TEETH HOLLOWED OUT
+    13. MODE OF FORGING HOES
+    14. MALLET FOR SEPARATING FIBRES OF BARK
+    15. THE CHIEF CHITAPANGWA
+    16. CHITAPANGWA'S WIVES
+    17. FILED TEETH OF QUEEN MOAeH
+    18. A FOREST GRAVE
+
+GENERAL MAP OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S OWN DISCOVERIES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the Sultan.
+    Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations
+    for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_
+    and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy
+    at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by
+    tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies.
+    The Makonde. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.
+
+
+ZANZIBAR, _28th January, 1866._--After a passage of twenty-three days
+from Bombay we arrived at this island in the _Thule_, which was one of
+Captain Sherard Osborne's late Chinese fleet, and now a present from
+the Bombay Government to the Sultan of Zanzibar. I was honoured with
+the commission to make the formal presentation, and this was intended
+by H.E. the Governor-in-Council to show in how much estimation I was
+held, and thereby induce the Sultan to forward my enterprise. The
+letter to his Highness was a commendatory epistle in my favour, for
+which consideration on the part of Sir Bartle Frere I feel deeply
+grateful. It runs as follows:--
+
+    TO HIS HIGHNESS SEJUEL MAJID, SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR.
+
+    (_Copy._)
+
+    "YOUR HIGHNESS,--I trust that this will find you in the
+    enjoyment of health and happiness.
+
+    "I have requested my friend, Dr. David Livingstone, who is
+    already personally well and favourably known to your Highness,
+    to convey to you the assurance of the continual friendship and
+    goodwill of Her Majesty's Government in India.
+
+    "Your Highness is already aware of the benevolent objects of Dr.
+    Livingstone's life and labours, and I feel assured that your
+    Highness will continue to him the favour and protection which
+    you have already shown to him on former occasions, and that your
+    Highness will direct every aid to be given him within your
+    Highness's dominions which may tend to further the philanthropic
+    designs to which he has devoted himself, and which, as your
+    Highness is aware, are viewed with the warmest interest by Her
+    Majesty's Government both in India and England.
+
+    "I trust your Highness will favour me with continued accounts of
+    your good health and welfare.
+
+    "I remain, your Highness's sincere friend,
+
+    (Signed) "H.B.E. FRERE.
+
+    "BOMBAY CASTLE, _2nd January, 1866._"
+
+When we arrived Dr. Seward, the Acting Consul, was absent at the
+Seychelles on account of serious failure of health: Mr. Schultz,
+however, was representing him, but he too was at the time away. Dr.
+Seward was expected back daily, and he did arrive on the 31st. I
+requested a private interview with the Sultan, and on the following
+day (29th) called and told him the nature of my commission to his
+Highness. He was very gracious, and seemed pleased with the gift, as
+well he might, for the _Thule_ is fitted up in the most gorgeous
+manner. We asked a few days to put her in perfect order, and this
+being the Ramadan, or fasting month, he was all the more willing to
+defer a visit to the vessel.
+
+Dr. Seward arranged to have an audience with the Sultan, to carry out
+his instructions, which were to present me in a formal manner; Captain
+Bradshaw of the _Wasp_, with Captain Leatham of the _Vigilant_, and
+Bishop Tozer, were to accompany us in full dress, but the Sultan had a
+toothache and gumboil, and could not receive us; he, however, placed
+one of his houses at my disposal, and appointed a man who speaks
+English to furnish board for my men and me, and also for Captain
+Brebner, of the _Thule_, and his men.
+
+[Illustration: Livingstone's House, Zanzibar.]
+
+_6th February, 1866._--The Sultan being still unable to come, partly
+on account of toothache and partly on account of Ramadan, he sent his
+commodore, Captain Abdullah, to receive the _Thule_. When the English
+flag was hauled down in the _Thule_, it went up to the mainmast of the
+_Iskander Shah_, and was saluted by twenty-one guns; then the _Wasp_
+saluted the Arab flag with an equal number, which honour being duly
+acknowledged by a second royal salute from the _Iskander Shah_,
+Captain Abdullah's frigate, the ceremony ended.
+
+Next day, the 7th, we were received by the Sultan, and through his
+interpreter, I told him that his friend, the Governor of Bombay, had
+lately visited the South Mahratta Princes, and had pressed on them the
+necessity of education; the world was moving on, and those who
+neglected to acquire knowledge would soon find that power slipped
+through their fingers, and that the Bombay Government, in presenting
+his Highness with a portion of steam power, showed its desire to
+impart one of the greatest improvements of modern times, not desiring
+to monopolize power, but hoping to lift up others with themselves, and
+I wished him to live a hundred years and enjoy all happiness. The idea
+was borrowed partly from Sir Bartle Frere's addresses, because I
+thought it would have more weight if he heard a little from that
+source than if it emanated from myself. He was very anxious that
+Captain Brebner and his men, in returning to India, should take a
+passage from him in the _Nadir Shah_, one of his men-of-war, and
+though he had already placed his things aboard the _Vigilant_, to
+proceed to Seychelles, and thence to Bombay, we persuaded Captain
+Brebner to accept his Highness's hospitality. He had evidently set his
+heart on sending them back with suitable honours, and an hour after
+consent was given to go by the _Nadir Shah_, he signed an order for
+the money to fit her out.
+
+_11th February, 1866._--One of the foremost subjects that naturally
+occupied my mind here was the sad loss of the Baron van der Decken, on
+the River Juba, or Aljib. The first intimation of the unfortunate
+termination of his explorations was the appearance of Lieutenant von
+Schich at this place, who had left without knowing whether his leader
+were dead or alive, but an attack had been made on the encampment
+which had been planned after the steamer struck the rocks and filled,
+and two of the Europeans were killed. The attacking party came from
+the direction in which the Baron and Dr. Link went, and three men of
+note in it were slain. Von Schich went back from Zanzibar to Brava to
+ascertain the fate of the Baron, and meanwhile several native sailors
+from Zanzibar had been allowed to escape from the scene of confusion
+to Brava.
+
+_18th February, 1866._--All the Europeans went to pay visits of
+congratulation to his Highness the Sultan upon the conclusion of the
+Ramadan, when sweetmeats were placed before us. He desired me to thank
+the Governor of Bombay for his magnificent gift, and to state that
+although he would like to have me always with him, yet he would show
+me the same favour in Africa which he had done here: he added that the
+_Thule_ was at my service to take me to the Rovuma whenever I wished
+to leave. I replied that nothing had been wanting on his part; he had
+done more than I expected, and I was sure that his Excellency the
+Governor would be delighted to hear that the vessel promoted his
+health and prosperity; nothing would delight him more than this. He
+said that he meant to go out in her on Wednesday next (20th): Bishop
+Tozer, Captain Fraser, Dr. Steere, and all the English were present.
+The sepoys came in and did obeisance; and I pointed out the Nassick
+lads as those who had been rescued from slavery, educated, and sent
+back to their own country by the Governor. Surely he must see that
+some people in the world act from other than selfish motives.
+
+In the afternoon Sheikh Sulieman, his secretary, came with a letter
+for the Governor, to be conveyed by Lieutenant Brebner, I.N., in the
+_Nadir Shah_, which is to sail to-morrow. He offered money to the
+lieutenant, but this could not be heard of for a moment.
+
+The translation of the letter is as follows, and is an answer to that
+which I brought.
+
+    TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY.
+
+    [After compliments.]
+
+
+    "... The end of my desire is to know ever that your
+    Excellency's health is good. As for me--your friend--I am very
+    well.
+
+    "Your honoured letter borne by Dr. Livingstone duly reached me,
+    and all that you said about him I understood.
+
+    "I will show him respect, give him honour, and help him in all
+    his affairs; and that I have already done this, I trust he will
+    tell you.
+
+    "I hope you will let me rest in your heart, and that you will
+    send me many letters.
+
+    "If you need anything I shall be glad, and will give it.
+
+    "Your sincere friend,
+
+    "MAJID BIN SAID.
+
+    "Dated 2nd Shaul, 1282 (18th February, 1866)."
+
+_2nd March, 1866._--A northern dhow came in with slaves; when this was
+reported to the Sultan he ordered it to be burned, and we saw this
+done from the window of the Consulate; but he has very little power
+over Northern Arabs. He has shown a little vigour of late. He wished
+to raise a revenue by a charge of 10 per cent. on all articles brought
+into town for sale, but this is clearly contrary to treaty, which
+provides that no monopoly shall be permitted, and no dues save that of
+5 per cent. import duty. The French Consul bullies him: indeed the
+French system of dealing with the natives is well expressed by that
+word; no wonder they cannot gain influence among them: the greatest
+power they exercise is by lending their flag to slaving dhows, so that
+it covers that nefarious traffic.
+
+The stench arising from a mile and a half or two square miles of
+exposed sea beach, which is the general depository of the filth of the
+town, is quite horrible. At night it is so gross or crass one might
+cut out a slice and manure a garden with it: it might be called
+Stinkibar rather than Zanzibar. No one can long enjoy good health
+here.
+
+On visiting the slave-market I found about 300 slaves exposed for
+sale, the greater part of whom came from Lake Nyassa and the Shire
+River; I am so familiar with the peculiar faces and markings or
+tattooings, that I expect them to recognize me. Indeed one woman said
+that she had heard of our passing up Lake Nyassa in a boat, but she
+did not see me: others came from Chipeta, S.W. of the Lake. All who
+have grown up seem ashamed at being hawked about for sale. The teeth
+are examined, the cloth lifted up to examine the lower limbs, and a
+stick is thrown for the slave to bring, and thus exhibit his paces.
+Some are dragged through the crowd by the hand, and the price called
+out incessantly: most of the purchasers were Northern Arabs and
+Persians. This is the period when the Sultan's people may not carry
+slaves coastwise; but they simply cannot, for the wind is against
+them. Many of the dhows leave for Madagascar, and thence come back to
+complete their cargoes.
+
+The Arabs are said to treat their slaves kindly, and this also may be
+said of native masters; the reason is, master and slave partake of the
+general indolence, but the lot of the slave does not improve with the
+general progress in civilization. While no great disparity of rank
+exists, his energies are little tasked, but when society advances,
+wants multiply; and to supply these the slave's lot grows harder. The
+distance between master and man increases as the lust of gain is
+developed, hence we can hope for no improvement in the slave's
+condition, unless the master returns to or remains in barbarism.
+
+_6th March, 1866._--Rains have begun now that the sun is overhead. We
+expect the _Penguin_ daily to come from Johanna, and take us to the
+Rovuma. It is an unwholesome place; six of my men have fever; few
+retain health long, and considering the lowness of the island, and the
+absence of sanitary regulations in the town, it is not to be wondered
+at. The Sultan has little power, being only the successor to the
+captain of the horde of Arabs who came down and overran the island and
+maritime coasts of the adjacent continent. He is called only Said or
+Syed, never Sultan; and they can boast of choosing a new one if he
+does not suit them. Some coins were found in digging here which have
+Cufic inscriptions, and are about 900 years old. The island is low;
+the highest parts may not be more than 150 feet above the sea; it is
+of a coral formation, with sandstone conglomerate. Most of the plants
+are African, but clove-trees, mangoes, and cocoa-nut groves give a
+luxuriant South Sea Island look to the whole scenery.
+
+We visited an old man to-day, the richest in Zanzibar, who is to give
+me letters to his friends at Tanganyika, and I am trying to get a
+depot of goods for provisions formed there, so that when I reach it I
+may not be destitute.
+
+_18th March, 1866._--I have arranged with Koorje, a Banian, who farms
+the custom-house revenue here, to send a supply of beads, cloth,
+flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on Lake Tanganyika. The Arab
+there, with whom one of Koorje's people will remain in charge of the
+goods, is called Thani bin Suelim.
+
+Yesterday we went to take leave of the Sultan, and to thank him for
+all his kindness to me and my men, which has indeed been very great.
+He offered me men to go with me, and another letter if I wished it. He
+looks very ill.
+
+I have received very great kindness during my stay from Dr. and Mrs.
+Seward. They have done everything for me in their power: may God
+Almighty return it all abundantly into their bosoms, in the way that
+He best can. Dr. Seward's views of the policy pursued here I have no
+doubt are the right ones; in fact, the only ones which can be looked
+back to with satisfaction, or that have probability of success among a
+race of Pariah Arabs.
+
+The _Penguin_ came a few days ago, and Lieutenant Garforth in command
+agrees to take me down to the Rovuma River, and land me there. I have
+a dhow to take my animals: six camels, three buffaloes, and a calf,
+two mules, and four donkeys. I have thirteen Sepoys, ten Johanna men,
+nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga men, and two Wayaus, Wekatani and
+Chuma.[3]
+
+[It may be well to point out that several of these men had previously
+been employed by Dr. Livingstone on the Zambesi and Shire; thus Musa,
+the Johanna man, was a sailor on the _Lady Nyassa_, whilst Susi and
+Amoda were engaged at Shupanga to cut wood for the _Pioneer_. The two
+Waiyau lads, Wakatani and Chuma, were liberated from the slavers by
+the Doctor and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861, and lived for three years
+with the Mission party at Chibisa's before they were engaged by
+Livingstone. The Nassick lads were entire strangers, and were trained
+in India.]
+
+_19th March, 1866._--We start this morning at 10 A.M. I trust that the
+Most High may prosper me in this work, granting me influence in the
+eyes of the heathen, and helping me to make my intercourse beneficial
+to them.
+
+_22nd March, 1866._--We reached Rovuma Bay to-day, and anchored about
+two miles from the mouth of the river, in five fathoms. I went up the
+left bank to see if the gullies which formerly ran into the bay had
+altered, so as to allow camels to cross them: they seemed to have
+become shallower. There was no wind for the dhow, and as for the
+man-of-war towing her, it was out of the question. On the 23rd the
+cutter did try to tow the dhow, but without success, as a strong tide
+runs constantly out of the river at this season. A squall came up from
+the S.E., which would have taken the dhow in, but the master was on
+board the _Penguin_, and said he had no large sail. I got him off to
+his vessel, but the wind died away before we could reach the mouth of
+the river.
+
+_24th March, 1866._--I went to the dhow, and there being no wind I
+left orders with the captain to go up the right bank should a breeze
+arise. Mr. Fane, midshipman, accompanied me up the left bank above, to
+see if we could lead the camels along in the water. Near the point
+where the river first makes a little bend to the north, we landed and
+found three formidable gullies, and jungle so thick with bush,
+date-palms, twining bamboo, and hooked thorns, that one could scarcely
+get along. Further inland it was sticky mud, thickly planted over with
+mangrove roots and gullies in whose soft banks one sank over the
+ankles. No camels could have moved, and men with extreme difficulty
+might struggle through; but we never could have made an available
+road. We came to a she-hippopotamus lying in a ditch, which did not
+cover her; Mr. Fane fired into her head, and she was so upset that she
+nearly fell backward in plunging up the opposite bank: her calf was
+killed, and was like sucking-pig, though in appearance as large as a
+full-grown sow.
+
+We now saw that the dhow had a good breeze, and she came up along the
+right bank and grounded at least a mile from the spot where the
+mangroves ceased. The hills, about two hundred feet high, begin about
+two or three miles above that, and they looked invitingly green and
+cool. My companion and I went from the dhow inland, to see if the
+mangroves gave way, to a more walkable country, but the swamp covered
+over thickly with mangroves only became worse the farther we receded
+from the river. The whole is flooded at high tides, and had we landed
+all the men we should have been laid up with fever ere we could have
+attained the higher land, which on the right bank bounds the line of
+vision, and the first part of which lies so near. I thought I had
+better land on the sand belt on the left of Rovuma Bay, and then
+explore and get information from the natives, none of whom had as yet
+come near us, so I ordered the dhow to come down to the spot next day,
+and went on board the _Penguin_. Lieutenant Garforth was excessively
+kind, and though this is his best time for cruising in the North, he
+most patiently agreed to wait and help me to land.
+
+_24th March, 1866._--During the night it occurred to me that we should
+be in a mess if after exploration and information from the natives we
+could find no path, and when I mentioned this, Lieutenant Garforth
+suggested that we should proceed to Kilwa, so at 5 A.M. I went up to
+the dhow with Mr. Fane, and told the captain that we were going there.
+He was loud in his protestations against this, and strongly
+recommended the port of Mikindany, as quite near to Rovuma, Nyassa,
+and the country I wished to visit, besides being a good landing-place,
+and the finest port on the coast. Thither we went, and on the same
+evening landed all our animals in Mikindany bay, which lies only
+twenty-five miles N. of Rovuma. The _Penguin_ then left.
+
+The Rovuma is quite altered from what it was when first we visited it.
+It is probable that the freshets form banks inside the mouth, which
+are washed out into the deep bay, and this periodical formation
+probably has prevented the Arabs from using the Rovuma as a port of
+shipment. It is not likely that Mr. May[4] would have made a mistake
+if the middle were as shoal as now: he found soundings of three
+fathoms or more.
+
+[Illustration: Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels.]
+
+_25th March, 1866._--I hired a house for four dollars a month and
+landed all our goods from the dhow. The bay gives off a narrow
+channel, about 500 yards wide and 200 yards long, the middle is deep,
+but the sides are coral reefs and shoal: the deep part seems about 100
+yards wide. Outside in the Bay of Mikindany there is no anchorage
+except on the edge of the reef where the _Penguin_ got seven fathoms,
+but further in it was only two fathoms. The inner bay is called Pemba,
+not Pimlea, as erroneously printed in the charts of Owen. It is deep
+and quite sheltered; another of a similar round form lies somewhat to
+the south: this bay may be two miles square.
+
+The cattle are all very much the worse for being knocked about in the
+dhow. We began to prepare saddles of a very strong tree called Ntibwe,
+which is also used for making the hooked spear with which hippopotami
+are killed--the hook is very strong and tough; I applied also for
+twenty carriers and a Banian engaged to get them as soon as possible.
+The people have no cattle here, they are half-caste Arabs mostly, and
+quite civil to us.
+
+_26th March, 1866._--A few of the Nassick boys have the slave spirit
+pretty strongly; it goes deepest in those who have the darkest skins.
+Two Gallah men are the most intelligent and hardworking among them;
+some look on work with indifference when others are the actors.
+
+Now that I am on the point of starting on another trip into Africa I
+feel quite exhilarated: when one travels with the specific object in
+view of ameliorating the condition of the natives every act becomes
+ennobled.
+
+Whether exchanging the customary civilities, or arriving at a village,
+accepting a night's lodging, purchasing food for the party, asking for
+information, or answering polite African enquiries as to our objects
+in travelling, we begin to spread a knowledge of that people by whose
+agency their land will yet become enlightened and freed from the
+slave-trade.
+
+The mere animal pleasure of travelling in a wild unexplored country is
+very great. When on lands of a couple of thousand feet elevation,
+brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles, fresh and healthy
+blood circulates through the brain, the mind works well, the eye is
+clear, the step is firm, and a day's exertion always makes the
+evening's repose thoroughly enjoyable.
+
+We have usually the stimulus of remote chances of danger either from
+beasts or men. Our sympathies are drawn out towards our humble hardy
+companions by a community of interests, and, it may be, of perils,
+which make us all friends. Nothing but the most pitiable puerility
+would lead any manly heart to make their inferiority a theme for
+self-exaltation; however, that is often done, as if with the vague
+idea that we can, by magnifying their deficiencies, demonstrate our
+immaculate perfections.
+
+The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right place is
+that the mind is made more self-reliant: it becomes more confident of
+its own resources--there is greater presence of mind. The body is soon
+well-knit; the muscles of the limbs grow as hard as a board, and seem
+to have no fat; the countenance is bronzed, and there is no dyspepsia.
+Africa is a most wonderful country for appetite, and it is only when
+one gloats over marrow bones or elephant's feet that indigestion is
+possible. No doubt much toil is involved, and fatigue of which
+travellers in the more temperate climes can form but a faint
+conception; but the sweat of one's brow is no longer a curse when one
+works for God: it proves a tonic to the system, and is actually a
+blessing. No one can truly appreciate the charm of repose unless he
+has undergone severe exertion.
+
+_27th March, 1866._--The point of land which on the north side of the
+entrance to the harbour narrows it to about 300 yards is alone called
+Pemba; the other parts have different names. Looking northwards from
+the point, the first hundred yards has ninety square houses of wattled
+daub; a ruin (a mosque) has been built of lime and coral. The whole
+point is coral, and the soil is red, and covered over with dense
+tropical vegetation, in which the baobab is conspicuous. Dhows at
+present come in with ease by the easterly wind which blows in the
+evening, and leave next morning, the land wind taking them out.
+
+While the camels and other animals are getting over their fatigues
+and bad bruises, we are making camels' saddles, and repairing those of
+the mules and buffaloes. Oysters abound on all the rocks and on the
+trees over which the tide flows: they are small, but much relished by
+the people.
+
+The Arabs here are a wretched lot physically--thin, washed-out
+creatures--many with bleared eyes.
+
+_29-30th March, 1866._--- This harbour has somewhat the shape of a
+bent bow or the spade on a playing-card, the shaft of the arrow being
+the entrance in; the passage is very deep, but not more than 100 yards
+wide, and it goes in nearly S.W.; inside it is deep and quite secure,
+and protected from all winds. The lands westward rise at once to about
+200 feet, and John, a hill, is the landmark by which it is best known
+in coming along the coast--so say the Arabs. The people have no
+cattle, but say there are no tsetse flies: they have not been
+long here, _i.e._ under the present system; but a ruin on the
+northern peninsula or face of the entrance, built of stone and
+lime--Arab-fashion, and others on the north-west, show that the place
+has been known and used of old. The adjacent country has large game at
+different water pools, and as the whole country is somewhat elevated
+it probably is healthy. There is very little mangrove, but another
+enclosed piece of water to the south of this probably has more. The
+language of the people here is Swaheli; they trade a little in
+gum-copal and Orchilla weed. An agent of the Zanzibar custom-house
+presides over the customs, which are very small, and a jemidar
+acknowledging the Sultan is the chief authority; but the people are
+little superior to the natives whom they have displaced. The jemidar
+has been very civil to me, and gives me two guides to go on to Adonde,
+but no carriers can be hired. Water is found in wells in the coral
+rock which underlies the whole place.
+
+_4th April, 1866._--When about to start from Pemba, at the entrance to
+the other side of the bay one of our buffaloes gored a donkey so
+badly that he had to be shot: we cut off the tips of the offender's
+horns, on the principle of "locking the stable-door when the steed is
+stolen," and marched. We came to level spots devoid of vegetation, and
+hard on the surface, but a deposit of water below allowed the camels
+to sink up to their bodies through the crust. Hauling them out, we got
+along to the jemidar's house, which is built of coral and lime. Hamesh
+was profuse in his professions of desire to serve, but gave a shabby
+hut which let in rain and wind. I slept one night in it, and it was
+unbearable, so I asked the jemidar to allow me to sleep in his
+court-room, where many of the sepoys were: he consented, but when I
+went refused; then, being an excitable, nervous Arab, he took fright,
+mustered all his men, amounting to about fifteen, with matchlocks; ran
+off, saying he was going to kill a lion; came back, shook hands
+nervously with me, vowing it was a man who would not obey him, "it was
+not you."
+
+Our goods were all out in the street, bound on the pack-saddles, so at
+night we took the ordinary precaution of setting a guard. This excited
+our dignitary, and after dark all his men were again mustered with
+matches lighted. I took no notice of him, and after he had spent a
+good deal of talk, which we could hear, he called Musa and asked what
+I meant. The explanations of Musa had the effect of sending him to
+bed, and in the morning, when I learned how much I had most
+unintentionally disturbed him, I told him that I was sorry, but it did
+not occur to me to tell him about an ordinary precaution against
+thieves. He thought he had given me a crushing reply when he said with
+vehemence, "But there are no thieves here." I did not know till
+afterwards that he and others had done me an ill turn in saying that
+no carriers could be hired from the independent tribes adjacent. They
+are low-coast Arabs, three-quarters African, and, as usual, possess
+the bad without the good qualities of both parents. Many of them came
+and begged brandy, and laughed when they remarked that they could
+drink it in secret but not openly; they have not, however, introduced
+it as an article of trade, as we Christians have done on the West
+Coast.
+
+_6th April, 1866._--We made a short march round to the south-west side
+of the Lake, and spent the night at a village in that direction. There
+are six villages dotted round the inner harbour, and the population
+may amount to 250 or 300 souls--coast Arabs and their slaves; the
+southern portion of the harbour is deep, from ten to fourteen fathoms,
+but the north-western part is shoal and rocky. Very little is done in
+the way of trade; some sorghum, sem-sem seed, gum-copal, and orchilla
+weed, constitute the commerce of the port: I saw two Banian traders
+settled here.
+
+_7th April, 1866._--Went about south from Kindany with a Somalie
+guide, named Ben Ali or Bon Ali, a good-looking obliging man, who was
+to get twenty dollars to take us up to Ngomano. Our path lay in a
+valley, with well-wooded heights on each side, but the grass towered
+over our heads, and gave the sensation of smothering, whilst the sun
+beat down on our heads very fiercely, and there was not a breath of
+air stirring. Not understanding camels, I had to trust to the sepoys
+who overloaded them, and before we had accomplished our march of about
+seven miles they were knocked up.
+
+_8th April, 1866._--We spent the Sunday at a village called Nyangedi.
+Here on the evening of the 7th April our buffaloes and camels were
+first bitten by the tsetse fly.[5] We had passed through some pieces
+of dense jungle which, though they offered no obstruction to
+foot-passengers, but rather an agreeable shade, had to be cut for the
+tall camels, and fortunately we found the Makonde of this village
+glad to engage themselves by the day either as woodcutters or
+carriers. We had left many things with the jemidar from an idea that
+no carriers could be procured. I lightened the camels, and had a party
+of woodcutters to heighten and widen the path in the dense jungle into
+which we now penetrated. Every now and then we emerged on open spaces,
+where the Makonde have cleared gardens for sorghum, maize, and
+cassava. The people were very much more taken up with the camels and
+buffaloes than with me. They are all independent of each other, and no
+paramount chief exists. Their foreheads may be called compact, narrow,
+and rather low; the _alae nasi_ expanded laterally; lips full, not
+excessively thick; limbs and body well formed; hands and feet small;
+colour dark and light-brown; height middle size, and bearing
+independent.
+
+_10th April, 1866._--We reached a village called Narri, lat. 10 deg. 23'
+14" S. Many of the men had touches of fever. I gave medicine to eleven
+of them, and next morning all were better. Food is abundant and cheap.
+Our course is nearly south, and in "wadys," from which, following the
+trade-road, we often ascend the heights, and then from the villages,
+which are on the higher land, we descend to another on the same wady.
+No running water is seen; the people depend on wells for a supply.
+
+_11th April, 1866._--At Tandahara we were still ascending as we went
+south; the soil is very fertile, with a good admixture of sand in it,
+but no rocks are visible. Very heavy crops of maize and sorghum are
+raised, and the cassava bushes are seven feet in height. The bamboos
+are cleared off them, spread over the space to be cultivated and
+burned to serve as manure. Iron is very scarce, for many of the men
+appear with wooden spears; they find none here, but in some spots
+where an ooze issued from the soil iron rust appeared. At each of the
+villages where we spent a night we presented a fathom of calico, and
+the headman always gave a fowl or two, and a basket of rice or maize.
+The Makonde dialect is quite different from Swaheli, but from their
+intercourse with the coast Arabs many of the people here have acquired
+a knowledge of Swaheli.
+
+[Illustration: A Thorn-climber.]
+
+_12th April, 1866._--On starting we found the jungle so dense that the
+people thought "there was no cutting it:" it continued upwards of
+three miles. The trees are not large, but so closely planted together
+that a great deal of labour was required to widen and heighten the
+path: where bamboos prevail they have starved out the woody trees. The
+reason why the trees are not large is because all the spaces we passed
+over were formerly garden ground before the Makonde had been thinned
+by the slave-trade. As soon as a garden is deserted, a thick crop of
+trees of the same sorts as those formerly cut down springs up, and
+here the process of woody trees starving out their fellows, and
+occupying the land without dense scrub below, has not had time to work
+itself out. Many are mere poles, and so intertwined with climbers as
+to present the appearance of a ship's ropes and cables shaken in among
+them, and many have woody stems as thick as an eleven-inch hawser. One
+species may be likened to the scabbard of a dragoon's sword, but along
+the middle of the flat side runs a ridge, from which springs up every
+few inches a bunch of inch-long straight sharp thorns. It hangs
+straight for a couple of yards, but as if it could not give its thorns
+a fair chance of mischief, it suddenly bends on itself, and all its
+cruel points are now at right angles to what they were before.
+Darwin's observation shows a great deal of what looks like instinct in
+these climbers. This species seems to be eager for mischief; its
+tangled limbs hang out ready to inflict injury on all passers-by.
+Another climber is so tough it is not to be broken by the fingers;
+another appears at its root as a young tree, but it has the straggling
+habits of its class, as may be seen by its cords stretched some fifty
+or sixty feet off; it is often two inches in diameter; you cut it
+through at one part and find it reappear forty yards off.
+
+[Illustration: Tomahawk and Axe.]
+
+Another climber is like the leaf of an aloe, but convoluted as
+strangely as shavings from the plane of a carpenter. It is dark green
+in colour, and when its bark is taken off it is beautifully striated
+beneath, lighter and darker green, like the rings of growth on wood;
+still another is a thin string with a succession of large knobs, and
+another has its bark pinched up all round at intervals so as to
+present a great many cutting edges. One sort need scarcely be
+mentioned, in which all along its length are strong bent hooks, placed
+in a way that will hold one if it can but grapple with him, for that
+is very common and not like those mentioned, which the rather seem to
+be stragglers from the carboniferous period of geologists, when
+Pachydermata wriggled unscathed among tangled masses worse than these.
+We employed about ten jolly young Makonde to deal with these
+prehistoric plants in their own way, for they are accustomed to
+clearing spaces for gardens, and went at the work with a will, using
+tomahawks well adapted for the work. They whittled away right
+manfully, taking an axe when any trees had to be cut. Their pay,
+arranged beforehand, was to be one yard of calico per day: this is not
+much, seeing we are still so near the sea-coast. Climbers and young
+trees melted before them like a cloud before the sun! Many more would
+have worked than we employed, but we used the precaution of taking
+the names of those engaged. The tall men became exhausted soonest,
+while the shorter men worked vigorously still--but a couple of days'
+hard work seemed to tell on the best of them. It is doubtful if any
+but meat-eating people can stand long-continued labour without
+exhaustion: the Chinese may be an exception. When French navvies were
+first employed they could not do a tithe of the work of our English
+ones; but when the French were fed in the same style as the English,
+they performed equally well. Here the Makonde have rarely the chance
+of a good feed of meat: it is only when one of them is fortunate
+enough to spear a wild hog or an antelope that they know this luxury;
+if a fowl is eaten they get but a taste of it with their porridge.
+
+_13th April, 1866._--We now began to descend the northern slope down
+to the Rovuma, and a glimpse could occasionally be had of the country;
+it seemed covered with great masses of dark green forest, but the
+undulations occasionally looked like hills, and here and there a
+Sterculia had put on yellow foliage in anticipation of the coming
+winter. More frequently our vision was circumscribed to a few yards
+till our merry woodcutters made for us the pleasant scene of a long
+vista fit for camels to pass: as a whole, the jungle would have made
+the authors of the natty little hints to travellers smile at their own
+productions, good enough, perhaps, where one has an open country with
+trees and hills; by which to take bearings, estimate distances, see
+that one point is on the same latitude, another on the same longitude
+with such another, and all to be laid down fair and square with
+protractor and compass, but so long as we remained within the
+vegetation, that is fed by the moisture from the Indian Ocean, the
+steamy, smothering air, and dank, rank, luxuriant vegetation made me
+feel, like it, struggling for existence,--and no more capable of
+taking bearings than if I had been in a hogshead and observing through
+the bunghole!
+
+An old Monyinko headman presented a goat and asked if the sepoys
+wished to cut its throat: the Johannees, being of a different sect of
+Mahometans, wanted to cut it in some other way than their Indian
+co-religionists: then ensued a fierce dispute as to who was of the
+right sort of Moslem! It was interesting to see that not Christians
+alone, but other nations feel keenly on religious subjects.
+
+I saw rocks of grey sandstone (like that which overlies coal) and the
+Rovuma in the distance. Didi is the name of a village whose headsman,
+Chombokea, is said to be a doctor; all the headmen pretend or are
+really doctors; however one, Fundindomba, came after me for medicine
+for himself.
+
+_14th April, 1866._--To-day we succeeded in reaching the Rovuma, where
+some very red cliffs appear on the opposite heights, and close by
+where it is marked on the map that the _Pioneer_ turned back in 1861.
+Here we rested on Sunday 15th.
+
+_16th April, 1866._--Our course now lay westwards, along the side of
+that ragged outline of table-land, which we had formerly seen from the
+river as flanking both sides. There it appeared a range of hills
+shutting in Rovuma, here we had spurs jutting out towards the river,
+and valleys retiring from a mile to three miles inland. Sometimes we
+wended our way round them, sometimes rose over and descended their
+western sides, and then a great deal of wood-cutting was required. The
+path is not straight, but from one village to another. We came
+perpetually on gardens, and remarked that rice was sown among the
+other grain; there must be a good deal of moisture at other times to
+admit of this succeeding: at present the crops were suffering for want
+of rain. We could purchase plenty of rice for the sepoys, and well it
+was so, for the supply which was to last till we arrived at Ngomano
+was finished on the 13th. An old doctor, with our food awaiting,
+presented me with two large bags of rice and his wife husked it for
+us.
+
+_17th April, 1866._--I had to leave the camels in the hands of the
+sepoys: I ordered them to bring as little luggage as possible, and the
+Havildar assured me that two buffaloes were amply sufficient to carry
+all they would bring. I now find that they have more than full loads
+for two buffaloes, two mules, and two donkeys; but when these animals
+fall down under them, they assure me with so much positiveness that
+they are not overloaded, that I have to be silent, or only, as I have
+several times done before, express the opinion that they will kill
+these animals. This observation on my part leads them to hide their
+things in the packs of the camels, which also are over-burdened. I
+fear that my experiment with the tsetse will be vitiated, but no
+symptoms yet occur in any of the camels except weariness.[6] The sun
+is very sharp; it scorches. Nearly all the sepoys had fever, but it is
+easily cured; they never required to stop marching, and we cannot make
+over four or five miles a day, which movement aids in the cure. In all
+cases of fever removal from the spot of attack should be made: after
+the fever among the sepoys, the Nassick boys took their turn along
+with the Johannees.
+
+_18th April, 1866._--Ben Ali misled us away up to the north in spite
+of my protest, when we turned in that direction; he declared that was
+the proper path. We had much wood-cutting, and found that our course
+that day and next was to enable him to visit and return from one of
+his wives--a comely Makonde woman! He brought her to call on me, and I
+had to be polite to the lady, though we lost a day by the zigzag. This
+is one way by which the Arabs gain influence; a great many very
+light-coloured people are strewed among the Makonde, but only one of
+these had the Arab hair. On asking Ali whether any attempts had been
+made by Arabs to convert those with whom they enter into such intimate
+relationships, he replied that the Makonde had no idea of a Deity--no
+one could teach them, though Makonde slaves when taken to the coast
+and elsewhere were made Mahometans. Since the slave-trade was
+introduced this tribe has much diminished in numbers, and one village
+makes war upon another and kidnaps, but no religious teaching has been
+attempted. The Arabs come down to the native ways, and make no efforts
+to raise the natives to theirs; it is better that it is so, for the
+coast Arab's manners and morals would be no improvement on the pagan
+African!
+
+_19th April, 1866._--We were led up over a hill again, and on to the
+level of the plateau (where the evaporation is greater than in the
+valley), and tasted water of an agreeable coldness for the first time
+this journey. The people, especially the women, are very rude, and the
+men very eager to be employed as woodcutters. Very merry they are at
+it, and every now and then one raises a cheerful shout, in which all
+join. I suppose they are urged on by a desire to please their wives
+with a little clothing. The higher up the Rovuma we ascend the people
+are more and more tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body.
+The teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by the
+women; some few Mabeha men from the south side of the river have
+lip-rings too.
+
+_20th April, 1866._--A Johanna man allowed the camels to trespass and
+destroy a man's tobacco patch: the owner would not allow us after this
+to pass through his rice-field, in which the route lay. I examined the
+damage, and made the Johanna man pay a yard of calico for it, which
+set matters all right.
+
+Tsetse are biting the buffaloes again. Elephants, hippopotami, and
+pigs are the only game here, but we see none: the tsetse feed on
+them. In the low meadow land, from one to three miles broad, which
+lies along both banks, we have brackish pools, and one, a large one,
+which we passed, called Wrongwe, had much fish, and salt is got from
+it.
+
+_21st April, 1866._--After a great deal of cutting we reached the
+valley of Mehambwe to spend Sunday, all glad that it had come round
+again. Here some men came to our camp from Ndonde, who report that an
+invasion of Mazitu had three months ago swept away all the food out of
+the country, and they are now obliged to send in every direction for
+provisions. When saluting, they catch each other's hands and say, "Ai!
+Ai!" but the general mode (introduced, probably by the Arabs) is to
+take hold of the right hand, and say, "Marhaba" (welcome).
+
+A wall-eyed ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on the attack on
+our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom I gave cloth to prevent a
+collision, came about us disguised in a jacket. I knew him well, but
+said nothing to him.[7]
+
+_23rd April, 1866._--When we marched this morning we passed the spot
+where an animal had been burned in the fire, and on enquiry I found
+that it is the custom when a leopard is killed to take off the skin
+and consume the carcase thus, because the Makonde do not eat it. The
+reason they gave for not eating flesh which is freely eaten by other
+tribes, is that the leopard devours men; this shows the opposite of an
+inclination to cannibalism.
+
+All the rocks we had seen showed that the plateau consists of grey
+sandstone, capped by a ferruginous sandy conglomerate. We now came to
+blocks of silicified wood lying on the surface; it is so like recent
+wood, that no one who has not handled it would conceive it to be
+stone and not wood: the outer surface preserves the grain or woody
+fibre, the inner is generally silica.
+
+Buffaloes bitten by tsetse again show no bad effects from it: one mule
+is, however, dull and out of health; I thought that this might be the
+effect of the bite till I found that his back was so strained that he
+could not stoop to drink, and could only eat the tops of the grasses.
+An ox would have been ill in two days after the biting on the 7th.
+
+A carrier stole a shirt, and went off unsuspected; when the loss was
+ascertained, the man's companions tracked him with Ben Ali by night,
+got him in his hut, and then collected the headmen of the village, who
+fined him about four times the value of what had been stolen. They
+came back in the morning without seeming to think that they had done
+aught to be commended; this was the only case of theft we had noticed,
+and the treatment showed a natural sense of justice.
+
+_24th April, 1866._--We had showers occasionally, but at night all the
+men were under cover of screens. The fevers were speedily cured; no
+day was lost by sickness, but we could not march more than a few
+miles, owing to the slowness of the sepoys; they are a heavy drag on
+us, and of no possible use, except when acting as sentries at night.
+
+When in the way between Kendany and Rovuma, I observed a plant here,
+called _Mandare_, the root of which is in taste and appearance like a
+waxy potato; I saw it once before at the falls below the Barotse
+Valley, in the middle of the continent; it had been brought there by
+an emigrant, who led out the water for irrigation, and it still
+maintained its place in the soil. Would this not prove valuable in the
+soil of India? I find that it is not cultivated further up the country
+of the Makonde, but I shall get Ali to secure some for Bombay.
+
+_25th April, 1866._--A serpent bit Jack, our dog, above the eye, the
+upper eyelid swelled very much, but no other symptoms appeared, and
+next day all swelling was gone; the serpent was either harmless, or
+the quantity of poison injected very small. The pace of the camels is
+distressingly slow, and it suits the sepoys to make it still slower
+than natural by sitting down to smoke and eat. The grass is high and
+ground under it damp and steamy.
+
+_26th April, 1866._--On the 25th we reached Narri, and resolved to
+wait the next day and buy food, as it is not so plentiful in front;
+the people are eager traders in meal, fowls, eggs, and honey; the
+women are very rude. Yesterday I caught a sepoy, Pando, belabouring a
+camel with a big stick as thick as any part of his arm, the path being
+narrow, it could not get out of his way; I shouted to him to desist;
+he did not know I was in sight, to-day the effect of the bad usage is
+seen in the animal being quite unable to move its leg: inflammation
+has set up in the hip-joint. I am afraid that several bruises which
+have festered on the camels, and were to me unaccountable, have been
+wilfully bestowed. This same Pando and another left Zanzibar drunk: he
+then stole a pair of socks from me, and has otherwise been perfectly
+useless, even a pimple on his leg was an excuse for doing nothing for
+many days. We had to leave this camel at Narri under charge of the
+headman.
+
+_28th April, 1866._--The hills on the north now retire out of our
+sight. A gap in the southern plateau gives passage to a small river,
+which arises in a lakelet of some size, eight or ten miles inland: the
+river and lakelet are both called Nangadi; the latter is so broad that
+men cannot be distinguished, even by the keen eyes of the natives on
+the other side: it is very deep, and abounds in large fish; the people
+who live there are Mabiha. A few miles above this gap the southern
+highland falls away, and there are lakelets on marshes, also
+abounding in fish, an uninhabited space next succeeds, and then we
+have the Matambwe country, which extends up to Ngomano. The Matambwe
+seem to be a branch of the Makonde, and a very large one: their
+country extends a long way south, and is well stocked with elephants
+and gum-copal trees.
+
+They speak a language slightly different from that of the Makonde, but
+they understand them. The Matambwe women are, according to Ali, very
+dark, but very comely, though they do wear the lip-ring. They carry
+their ivory, gum-copal, and slaves to Ibo or Wibo.
+
+_29th April, 1866._--We spend Sunday, the 29th, on the banks of the
+Rovuma, at a village called Nachuchu, nearly opposite Konayumba, the
+first of the Matambwe, whose chief is called Kimbembe. Ali draws a
+very dark picture of the Makonde. He says they know nothing of a
+Deity, they pray to their mothers when in distress or dying; know
+nothing of a future state, nor have they any religion except a belief
+in medicine; and every headsman is a doctor. No Arab has ever tried to
+convert them, but occasionally a slave taken to the coast has been
+circumcised in order to be clean; some of them pray, and say they know
+not the ordeal or muavi. The Nassick boys failed me when I tried to
+communicate some knowledge through them. They say they do not
+understand the Makonde language, though some told me that they came
+from Ndonde's, which is the head-quarters of the Makonde. Ali says
+that the Makonde blame witches for disease and death; when one of a
+village dies, the whole population departs, saying "that is a bad
+spot." They are said to have been notorious for fines, but an awe has
+come over them, and no complaints have been made, though our animals
+in passing the gardens have broken a good deal of corn. Ali says they
+fear the English. This is an answer to my prayer for influence on the
+minds of the heathen. I regret that I cannot speak to them that good
+of His name which I ought.
+
+I went with the Makonde to see a specimen of the gum-copal tree in the
+vicinity of this village. The leaves are in pairs, glossy green, with
+the veins a little raised on both face and back; the smaller branches
+diverge from the same point: the fruit, of which we saw the shells,
+seems to be a nut; some animal had in eating them cut them through.
+The bark of the tree is of a light ash colour; the gum was oozing from
+the bark at wounded places, and it drops on the ground from branches;
+it is thus that insects are probably imbedded in the gum-copal. The
+people dig in the vicinity of modern trees in the belief that the more
+ancient trees which dropped their gum before it became an article of
+commerce must have stood there. "In digging, none may be found on one
+day but God (Mungu) may give it to us on the next." To this all the
+Makonde present assented, and showed me the consciousness of His
+existence was present in their minds. The Makonde get the gum in large
+quantities, and this attracts the coast Arabs, who remain a long time
+in the country purchasing it. Hernia humoralis abounds; it is ascribed
+to beer-drinking.
+
+_30th April, 1866._--Many ulcers burst forth on the camels; some seem
+old dhow bruises. They come back from pasture, bleeding in a way that
+no rubbing against a tree would account for. I am sorry to suspect
+foul play: the buffaloes and mules are badly used, but I cannot be
+always near to prevent it.
+
+Bhang[8] is not smoked, but tobacco is: the people have no sheep or
+goats; only fowls, pigeons, and Muscovy ducks are seen. Honey is very
+cheap; a good large pot of about a gallon, with four fowls, was given
+for two yards of calico. Buffaloes again bitten by tsetse, and by
+another fly exactly like the house-fly, but having a straight hard
+proboscis instead of a soft one; other large flies make the blood run.
+The tsetse does not disturb the buffaloes, but these others and the
+smaller flies do. The tsetse seem to like the camel best; from these
+they are gorged with blood--they do not seem to care for the mules and
+donkeys.
+
+[Illustration: Carved Door, Zanzibar.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Dhow is the name given to the coasting vessel of East Africa and
+the Indian Ocean.
+
+[4] The Commander of H.M.S. _Pioneer_ in 1861.
+
+[5] Those who have read the accounts given by African travellers will
+remember that the bites inflicted by two or three of these small flies
+will visually lay the foundation of a sickness which destroys oxen,
+horses, and dogs in a few weeks.
+
+[6] Dr. Livingstone was anxious to try camels and Indian buffaloes in
+a tsetse country to see the effect upon them.
+
+[7] This refers to an attack made upon the boats of the _Pioneer_ when
+the Doctor was exploring the River Rovuma in 1861.
+
+[8] A species of hemp.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitane. Result
+    of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of
+    followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend.
+    Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher.
+    Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death
+    of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence.
+
+
+_1st May, 1866._--We now came along through a country comparatively
+free of wood, and we could move on without perpetual cutting and
+clearing. It is beautiful to get a good glimpse out on the surrounding
+scenery, though it still seems nearly all covered with great masses of
+umbrageous foliage, mostly of a dark green colour, for nearly all of
+the individual trees possess dark glossy leaves like laurel. We passed
+a gigantic specimen of the Kumbe, or gum-copal tree. Kumba means to
+dig. Changkumbe, or things dug, is the name of the gum; the Arabs call
+it "sandaruse." Did the people give the name Kumbe to the tree after
+the value of the gum became known to them? The Malole, from the fine
+grained wood of which all the bows are made, had shed its fruit on the
+ground; it looks inviting to the eye--an oblong peach-looking thing,
+with a number of seeds inside, but it is eaten by maggots only.
+
+When we came to Ntande's village, we found it enclosed in a strong
+stockade, from a fear of attack by Mabiha, who come across the river
+and steal their women when going to draw water: this is for the Ibo
+market. They offered to pull down their stockade and let us in if we
+would remain over-night, but we declined. Before reaching Ntande we
+passed the ruins of two villages; the owners were the attacking party
+when we ascended the Rovuma in 1862. I have still the old sail, with
+four bullet-holes through it, made by the shots which they fired after
+we had given cloth and got assurances of friendship. The father and
+son of this village were the two men seen by the second boat preparing
+to shoot; the fire of her crew struck the father on the chin and the
+son on the head. It may have been for the best that the English are
+thus known as people who can hit hard when unjustly attacked, as we on
+this occasion most certainly were: never was a murderous assault more
+unjustly made or less provoked. They had left their villages and gone
+up over the highlands away from the river to their ambush whilst their
+women came to look at us.
+
+_2nd May, 1866._--Mountains again approach us, and we pass one which
+was noticed in our first ascent from its resemblance to a table
+mountain. It is 600 or 800 feet high, and called Liparu: the plateau
+now becomes mountainous, giving forth a perennial stream which comes
+down from its western base and forms a lagoon on the meadow-land that
+flanks the Rovuma. The trees which love these perpetual streams spread
+their roots all over the surface of the boggy banks, and make a firm
+surface, but at spots one may sink a yard deep. We had to fill up
+these deep ditches with branches and leaves, unload the animals, and
+lead them across. We spent the night on the banks of the Liparu,[9]
+and then proceeded on our way.
+
+_3rd May, 1866._--We rested in a Makoa village, the head of which was
+an old woman. The Makoa or Makoane are known by a half-moon figure
+tattooed on their foreheads or elsewhere. Our poodle dog Chitane
+chased the dogs of this village with unrelenting fury, his fierce
+looks inspired terror among the wretched pariah dogs of a yellow and
+white colour, and those looks were entirely owing to its being
+difficult to distinguish at which end his head or tail lay. He enjoyed
+the chase of the yelping curs immensely, but if one of them had turned
+he would have bolted the other way.
+
+A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me some meal; this
+was when we were in the act of departing: others had given food to the
+men and no return had been made. I told her to send it on by her
+husband, and I would purchase it, but it would have been better to
+have accepted it: some give merely out of kindly feeling and with no
+prospect of a return.
+
+Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed in double,
+raised lines of about half an inch in length. After the incisions are
+made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh pressed out, so that all the
+cuts are raised above the level of the surface. It gives them rather a
+hideous look, and a good deal of that fierceness which our kings and
+chiefs of old put on whilst having their portraits taken.
+
+_4th May, 1866._--The stream, embowered in perpetual shade and
+overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved trees, we
+found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment was an island
+formed by a branch of it parting and re-entering it again: the owner
+had used it for rice.
+
+The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also to-day,
+from the bites of other flies (which look much more formidable than
+tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down; this symptom I never saw
+before, but when we slaughtered an ox which had been tsetse bitten, we
+observed that the blood had the arterial hue. The cow has inflammation
+of one eye, and a swelling on the right lumbar portion of the pelvis:
+the grey buffalo has been sick, but this I attribute to unmerciful
+loading; for his back is hurt: the camels do not seem to feel the fly,
+though they get weaker from the horrid running sores upon them and
+hard work. There are no symptoms of tsetse in mules or donkeys, but
+one mule has had his shoulder sprained, and he cannot stoop to eat or
+drink.
+
+We saw the last of the flanking range on the north. The country in
+front is plain, with a few detached granitic peaks shot up. The Makoa
+in large numbers live at the end of the range in a place called
+Nyuchi. At Nyamba, a village where we spent the night of the 5th, was
+a doctoress and rain-maker, who presented a large basket of soroko,
+or, as they call it in India, "mung," and a fowl. She is tall and well
+made, with fine limbs and feet, and was profusely tattooed all over;
+even her hips and buttocks had their elaborate markings: no shame is
+felt in exposing these parts.
+
+A good deal of salt is made by lixiviation of the soil and evaporating
+by fire. The head woman had a tame khanga tole or tufted guinea-fowl,
+with bluish instead of white spots.
+
+In passing along westwards after leaving the end of the range, we came
+first of all on sandstone hardened by fire; then masses of granite, as
+if in that had been contained the igneous agency of partial
+metamorphosis; it had also lifted up the sandstone, so as to cause a
+dip to the east. Then the syenite or granite seemed as if it had been
+melted, for it was all in striae, which striae, as they do elsewhere,
+run east and west. With the change in geological structure we get a
+different vegetation. Instead of the laurel-leaved trees of various
+kinds, we have African ebonies, acacias, and mimosae: the grass is
+shorter and more sparse, and we can move along without wood-cutting.
+We were now opposite a hill on the south called Simba, a lion, from
+its supposed resemblance to that animal. A large Mabiha population
+live there, and make raids occasionally over to this side for slaves.
+
+_6th May, 1866._--Tsetse again. The animals look drowsy. The cow's eye
+is dimmed; when punctured, the skin emits a stream of scarlet blood.
+The people hereabouts seem intelligent and respectful. At service a
+man began to talk, but when I said, "Ku soma Mlungu,"--"we wish to
+pray to God," he desisted. It would be interesting to know what the
+ideas of these men are, and to ascertain what they have gained in
+their communings with nature during the ages past. They do not give
+the idea of that boisterous wickedness and disregard of life which we
+read of in our own dark ages, but I have no one to translate, although
+I can understand much of what is said on common topics chiefly from
+knowing other dialects.
+
+_7th May, 1866._--A camel died during the night, and the grey buffalo
+is in convulsions this morning. The cruelty of these sepoys vitiates
+my experiment, and I quite expect many camels, one buffalo, and one
+mule to die yet; they sit down and smoke and eat, leaving the animals
+loaded in the sun. If I am not with them, it is a constant dawdling;
+they are evidently unwilling to exert themselves, they cannot carry
+their belts and bags, and their powers of eating and vomiting are
+astounding. The Makonde villages are remarkably clean, but no sooner
+do we pass a night in one than the fellows make it filthy. The climate
+does give a sharp appetite, but these sepoys indulge it till relieved
+by vomiting and purging. First of all they breakfast, then an hour
+afterwards they are sitting eating the pocketfuls of corn maize they
+have stolen and brought for the purpose, whilst I have to go ahead,
+otherwise we may be misled into a zigzag course to see Ali's friends;
+and if I remain behind to keep the sepoys on the move, it deprives me
+of all the pleasure of travelling. We have not averaged four miles a
+day in a straight line, yet the animals have often been kept in the
+sun for eight hours at a stretch. When we get up at 4 A.M. we cannot
+get under weigh before 8 o'clock. Sepoys are a mistake.
+
+_7th May, 1866._--We are now opposite a mountain called Nabungala,
+which resembles from the north-east an elephant lying down. Another
+camel, a very good one, died on the way: its shiverings and
+convulsions are not at all like what we observed in horses and oxen
+killed by tsetse, but such may lie the cause, however. The only
+symptom pointing to the tsetse is the arterial-looking blood, but we
+never saw it ooze from the skin after the bite of the gad-fly as we do
+now.
+
+_8th May, 1866._--We arrived at a village called Jponde, or Liponde,
+which lies opposite a granitic hill on the other-side of the river
+(where we spent a night on our boat trip), called Nakapuri; this is
+rather odd, for the words are not Makonde but Sichuana, and signify
+goat's horn, from the projections jutting out from the rest of the
+mass. I left the havildar, sepoys, and Nassick boys here in order to
+make a forced march forward, where no food is to be had, and send
+either to the south or westwards for supplies, so that after they have
+rested the animals and themselves five days they may come. One mule is
+very ill; one buffalo drowsy and exhausted; one camel a mere skeleton
+from bad sores; and another has an enormous hole at the point of the
+pelvis, which sticks out at the side. I suspect that this was made
+maliciously, for he came from the field bleeding profusely; no tree
+would have perforated a round hole in this way. I take all the goods
+and leave only the sepoys' luggage, which is enough for all the
+animals now.
+
+_9th May, 1866._--I went on with the Johanna men and twenty-four
+carriers, for it was a pleasure to get away from the sepoys and
+Nassick boys; the two combined to overload the animals. I told them
+repeatedly that they would kill them, but no sooner had I adjusted the
+burdens and turned my back than they put on all their things. It was
+however such continual vexation to contend with the sneaking spirit,
+that I gave up annoying myself by seeing matters, though I felt
+certain that the animals would all be killed. We did at least eight
+miles pleasantly well, and slept at Moedaa village. The rocks are
+still syenite. We passed a valley with the large thorny acacias of
+which canoes are often made, and a euphorbiaceous tree, with
+seed-vessels as large as mandarin oranges, with three seeds inside. We
+were now in a country which, in addition to the Mazitu invasion, was
+suffering from one of those inexplicable droughts to which limited and
+sometimes large portions of this country are subject. It had not been
+nearly so severe on the opposite or south side, and thither too the
+Mazitu had not penetrated. Rushes, which plagued us nearer the coast,
+are not observed now; the grass is all crisp and yellow; many of the
+plants are dead, and leaves are fallen off the trees as if winter had
+begun. The ground is covered with open forest, with here and there
+thick jungle on the banks of the streams. All the rivulets we have
+passed are mere mountain torrents filled with sand, in which the
+people dig for water.
+
+We passed the spot where an Arab called Birkal was asked payment for
+leave to pass. After two and a half days' parley he fought, killed two
+Makonde, and mortally wounded a headman, which settled the matter; no
+fresh demand has been made. Ali's brother also resisted the same sort
+of demand, fought several times, or until three Makonde and two of his
+people were killed; they then made peace, and no other exactions have
+been made.
+
+_11th May, 1866._--We now found a difficulty in getting our carriers
+along, on account of exhaustion from want of food. In going up a sand
+stream called Nyede, we saw that all moist spots had been planted with
+maize and beans, so the loss caused by the Mazitu, who swept the land
+like a cloud of locusts, will not be attended by much actual
+starvation. We met a runaway woman: she was seized by Ali, and it was
+plain that he expected a reward for his pains. He thought she was a
+slave, but a quarter of a mile off was the village she had left, and
+it being doubtful if she were a runaway at all, the would-be fugitive
+slave-capture turned out a failure.
+
+_12th May, 1866._--About 4' E.N.E. of Matawatawa, or Nyamatolole, our
+former turning point.
+
+_13th May, 1866._--We halted at a village at Matawatawa. A
+pleasant-looking lady, with her face profusely tattooed, came forward
+with a bunch of sweet reed, or _Sorghum saceliaratum_, and laid it at
+my feet, saying, "I met you here before," pointing to the spot on the
+river where we turned. I remember her coming then, and that I asked
+the boat to wait while she went to bring us a basket of food, and I
+think it was given to Chiko, and no return made. It is sheer
+kindliness that prompts them sometimes, though occasionally people do
+make presents with a view of getting a larger one in return: it is
+pleasant to find that it is not always so. She had a quiet, dignified
+manner, both in talking and walking, and I now gave her a small
+looking-glass, and she went and brought me her only fowl and a basket
+of cucumber-seeds, from which oil is made; from the amount of oily
+matter they contain thov are nutritious when roasted and eaten as
+nuts. She made an apology, saying they were hungry times at present. I
+gave her a cloth, and so parted with Kanangone, or, as her name may be
+spelled, Kananone. The carriers were very useless from hunger, and we
+could not buy anything for them; for the country is all dried up, and
+covered sparsely with mimosas and thorny acacias.
+
+_14th May, 1866._--I could not get the carriers on more than an hour
+and three-quarters: men tire very soon on empty stomachs. We had
+reached the village of Hassane, opposite to a conical hill named
+Chisulwe, which is on the south side of the river, and evidently of
+igneous origin. It is tree-covered, while the granite always shows
+lumps of naked rock. All about lie great patches of beautiful
+dolomite. It may have been formed by baking of the tufa, which in this
+country seems always to have been poured out with water after volcanic
+action. Hassane's daughter was just lifting a pot of French beans,
+boiled in their pods, off the fire when we entered the village, these
+he presented to me, and when I invited him to partake, he replied that
+he was at home and would get something, while I was a stranger on a
+journey. He, like all the other headmen, is a reputed doctor, and his
+wife, a stout old lady, a doctoress; he had never married any wife but
+this one, and he had four children, all of whom lived with their
+parents. We employed one of his sons to go to the south side and
+purchase food, sending at the same time some carriers to buy for
+themselves. The siroko and rice bought by Hassane's son we deposited
+with him for the party behind, when they should arrive. The amount of
+terror the Mazitu inspire cannot be realized by us. They shake their
+shields and the people fly like stricken deer. I observed that a child
+would not go a few yards for necessary purposes unless grandmother
+stood in sight. Matumora, as the Arabs call the chief at Ngomano, gave
+them a warm reception, and killed several of them: this probably
+induced them to retire.
+
+_15th and 16th May, 1866._--Miserably short marches from hunger, and I
+sympathise with the poor fellows. Those sent to buy food for
+themselves on the south bank were misled by a talkative fellow named
+Chikungu, and went off north, where we knew nothing could be had. His
+object was to get paid for three days, while they only loitered here.
+I suppose hunger has taken the spirit out of them; but I told them
+that a day in which no work was done did not count: they admitted
+this. We pay about two feet of calico per day, and a fathom or six
+feet for three days' carriage.
+
+_17th May, 1866._--With very empty stomachs they came on a few miles
+and proposed to cross to the south side; as this involved crossing the
+Luendi too, I at first objected, but in hopes that we might get food
+for them we consented, and were taken over in two very small canoes. I
+sent Ali and Musa meanwhile to the south to try and get some food. I
+got a little green sorghum for them and paid them off. These are the
+little troubles of travelling, and scarce worth mentioning. A granitic
+peak now appears about 15' off, to the W.S.W. It is called Chihoka.
+
+_18th May, 1866._--At our crossing place metamorphic rocks of a
+chocolate colour stood on edge; and in the country round we have
+patches of dolomite, sometimes as white as marble. The country is all
+dry: grass and leaves crisp and yellow. Though so arid now, yet the
+great abundance of the dried stalks of a water-loving plant, a sort of
+herbaceous acacia, with green pea-shaped flowers, proves that at other
+times it is damp enough. The marks of people's feet floundering in
+slush, but now baked, show that the country can be sloppy.
+
+The headman of the village where we spent the night of 17th is a
+martyr to rheumatism. He asked for medicine, and when I gave some he
+asked me to give it to him out of my own hand. He presented me with a
+basket of siroko and of green sorghum as a fee, of which I was very
+glad, for my own party were suffering, and I had to share out the
+little portion of flour I had reserved to myself.
+
+_19th May, 1866._--Coming on with what carriers we could find at the
+crossing place, we reached the confluence without seeing it; and
+Matumora being about two miles up the Loendi, we sent over to him for
+aid. He came over this morning early,--a tall, well-made man, with a
+somewhat severe expression of countenance, from a number of wrinkles
+on his forehead. He took us over the Loendi, which is decidedly the
+parent stream of the Rovuma, though that as it comes from the west
+still retains the name Loendi from the south-west here, and is from
+150 to 200 yards wide, while the Rovuma above Matawatawa is from 200
+to 250, full of islands, rocks, and sandbanks. The Loendi has the same
+character. We can see the confluence from where we cross about 2' to
+the north. Both rivers are rapid, shoal, and sandy; small canoes are
+used on them, and the people pride themselves on their skilful
+management: in this the women seem in no way inferior to the men.
+
+In looking up the Loendi we see a large granitic peak called Nkanje,
+some 20 miles off, and beyond it the dim outline of distant highlands,
+in which seams of coal are exposed. Pieces of the mineral are found in
+Loendi's sands.
+
+Matumora has a good character in the country, and many flee to him
+from oppression. He was very polite; sitting on the right bank till
+all the goods were carried over, then coming in the same canoe wifn me
+himself, he opened a fish basket in a weir and gave me the contents,
+and subsequently a little green sorghum. He literally has lost all his
+corn, for he was obliged to flee with his people to Marumba, a rocky
+island in Rovuma, about six miles above Matawatawa. He says that both
+Loendi and Rovuma come out of Lake Nyassa; a boat could not ascend,
+however, because many waterfalls are in their course: it is strange if
+all this is a myth. Matumora asked if the people through whose country
+I had come would preserve the peace I wished. He says he has been
+assailed on all sides by slave-hunters: he alone has never hunted for
+captives: if the people in front should attack me he would come and
+fight them: finally he had never seen a European before (Dr. Roscher
+travelled as an Arab), nor could I learn where Likumbu at Ngomano
+lives; it was with him that Roscher is said to have left his goods.
+
+The Mazitu had women, children, oxen and goats with them. The whole
+tribe lives on plundering the other natives by means of the terror
+their shields inspire; had they gone further down the Rovuma, no ox
+would have survived the tsetse.
+
+_20th May, 1866._--I paid Ali to his entire satisfaction, and
+entrusted him with a despatch, "No. 2 Geographical," and then sent off
+four men south to buy food. Here we are among Matambwe. Two of
+Matumora's men act as guides. We are about 2' south and by west of the
+confluence Ngomano. Lat. 11 deg. 26' 23" S.; long. 37 deg. 40' 52" E.
+
+Abraham, one of the Nassick boys, came up and said he had been sent by
+the sepoys, who declared they would come no further. It was with the
+utmost difficulty they had come so far, or that the havildar had
+forced them on, they would not obey him--would not get up in the
+mornings to march; lay in the paths, and gave their pouches and
+muskets to the natives to carry: they make themselves utterly useless.
+The black buffalo is dead; one camel ditto, and one mule left behind
+ill. Were I not aware of the existence of the tsetse, I should say
+they died from sheer bad treatment and hard work.
+
+I sent a note to be read to the sepoys stating that I had seen their
+disobedience, unwillingness, and skulking, and as soon as I received
+the havildar's formal evidence, I would send them back. I regretted
+parting with the havildar only.
+
+A leopard came a little after dark while the moon was shining, and
+took away a little dog from among us; it is said to have taken off a
+person a few days ago.
+
+_22nd May, 1866._--The men returned with but little food in return for
+much cloth. Matumora is very friendly, but he has nothing to give save
+a little green sorghum, and that he brings daily.
+
+A south wind blows strongly every afternoon. The rains ceased about
+the middle of May, and the temperature is lowered. A few heavy night
+showers closed the rainy season.
+
+_23rd--24th May, 1866._--I took some Lunar observations.
+
+_25th May, 1866._--Matumora is not Ndonde. A chief to the south-west
+of this owns that name and belongs to the Matumbwe tribe.
+
+_26th May, 1866._--I sent Musa westwards to buy food, and he returned
+on the evening of 27th without success; he found an Arab slave-dealer
+waiting in the path, who had bought up all the provisions. About 11
+P.M. we saw two men pass our door with two women in a chain; one man
+carried fire in front, the one behind, a musket. Matumora admits that
+his people sell each other.
+
+_27th May, 1866._--The havildar and Abraham came up. Havildar says
+that all I said in my note was true, and when it was read to the
+sepoys they bewailed their folly, he adds that if they were all sent
+away disgraced, no one would be to blame but themselves. He brought
+them to Hassane's, but they were useless, though they begged to be
+kept on: I may give them another trial, but at present they are a sad
+incumbrance. South-west of this the Manganja begin; but if one went by
+them, there is a space beyond in the south-west without people.
+
+The country due west of this is described by all to be so mountainous
+and beset by Mazitu, that there is no possibility of passing that way.
+I must therefore make my way to the middle of the Lake, cross over,
+and then take up my line of 1863.
+
+_2nd June, 1866._--The men sent to the Matambwe south-east of this
+returned with a good supply of grain. The sepoys won't come; they say
+they cannot,--a mere excuse, v because they tried to prevail on the
+Nassick boys to go slowly like them, and wear my patience out. They
+killed one camel with the butt ends of their muskets, beating it till
+it died. I thought of going down disarming them all, and taking five
+or six of the willing ones, but it is more trouble than profit, so I
+propose to start westwards on Monday the 4th, or Tuesday the 5th. My
+sepoys offered Ali eight rupees to take them to the coast, thus it
+has been a regularly organized conspiracy.
+
+From the appearance of the cow-buffalo, I fear the tsetse is its chief
+enemy, but there is a place like a bayonet wound on its shoulder, and
+many of the wounds or bruises on the camels were so probed that I
+suspect the sepoys.
+
+Many things African are possessed of as great vitality in their line
+as the African people. The white ant was imported accidentally into
+St. Helena from the coast of Guinea, and has committed such ravages in
+the town of St. James, that numerous people have been ruined, and the
+governor calls out for aid against them. In other so-called new
+countries a wave of English weeds follows the tide of English
+emigration, and so with insects; the European house-fly chases away
+the blue-bottle fly in New Zealand. Settlers have carried the
+house-fly in bottles and boxes for their new locations, but what
+European insect will follow us and extirpate the tsetse? The Arabs
+have given the Makonde bugs, but we have the house-fly wherever we go,
+the blue-bottle and another like the house-fly, but with a sharp
+proboscis; and several enormous gad-flies. Here there is so much room
+for everything. In New Zealand the Norwegian rat is driven off by even
+the European mouse; not to mention the Hanoverian rat of Waterton,
+which is lord of the land. The Maori say that "as the white man's rat
+has driven away the native rat, so the European fly drives away our
+own; and as the clover kills our fern, so will the Maori disappear
+before the white man himself." The hog placed ashore by Captain Cook
+has now overrun one side of the island, and is such a nuisance that a
+large farmer of 100,000 acres has given sixpence per head for the
+destruction of some 20,000, and without any sensible diminution; this
+would be no benefit here, for the wild hogs abound and do much damage,
+besides affording food for the tsetse: the brutes follow the ewes with
+young, and devour the poor lambs as soon as they make their
+appearance.
+
+_3rd June, 1866._--The cow-buffalo fell down foaming at the mouth, and
+expired. The meat looks fat and nice, and is relished by the people, a
+little glariness seemed to be present on the foreleg, and I sometimes
+think that, notwithstanding the dissimilarity of the symptoms observed
+in the camels and buffaloes now, and those we saw in oxen and horses,
+the evil may be the tsetse, after all, but they have been badly used,
+without a doubt. The calf has a cut half an inch deep, the camels have
+had large ulcers, and at last a peculiar smell, which portends death.
+I feel perplexed, and not at all certain as to the real causes of
+death.
+
+I asked Matumora if the Matambwe believed in God, he replied, that he
+did not know Him, and I was not to ask the people among whom I was
+going if they prayed to Him, because they would imagine that I wished
+them to be killed. I told him that we loved to speak about Him, &c. He
+said, when they prayed they offered a little meal and then prayed, but
+did not know much about Him.
+
+They have all great reverence for the Deity, and the deliberate way in
+which they say "We don't know Him" is to prevent speaking
+irreverently, as that may injure the country. The name is "Mulungu":
+Makochera afterwards said, that "He was not good, because He killed so
+many people."
+
+_4th June, 1866._--Left Ngomano. I was obliged to tell the Nassick
+boys that they must either work or return, it was absurd to have them
+eating up our goods, and not even carrying their own things, and I
+would submit to it no more: five of them carry bales, and two the
+luggage of the rest. Abraham and Richard are behind. I gave them bales
+to carry, and promised them ten rupees per month, to begin on this
+date. Abraham has worked hard all along, and his pay may be due from
+7th April, the day we started from Kindany.
+
+_5th June, 1866._--We slept at a village called Lamba, on the banks of
+the Rovuma, near a brawling torrent of 150 yards, or 200 perhaps, with
+many islands and rocks in it. The country is covered with open forest,
+with patches of cultivation everywhere, but all dried up at present
+and withered, partly from drought and partly from the cold of winter.
+We passed a village with good ripe sorghum cut down, and the heads or
+ears all laid neatly in a row, this is to get it dried in the sun, and
+not shaken out by the wind, by waving to and fro; besides it is also
+more easily watched from being plundered by birds. The sorghum
+occasionally does not yield seed, and is then the _Sorghum
+saccharatum_, for the stalk contains abundance of sugar, and is much
+relished by the natives. Now that so much has failed to yield seed,
+being indeed just in flower, the stalks are chewed as if sugar-cane,
+and the people are fat thereon; but the hungry time is in store when
+these stalles are all done. They make the best provision in their
+power against famine by planting beans and maize in moist spots. The
+common native pumpkin forms a bastard sort in the same way, but that
+is considered very inferior.
+
+_6th June, 1866._--Great hills of granite are occasionally in sight
+towards the north, but the trees, though scraggy, close in the view.
+We left a village, called Mekosi, and goon came to a slaving party by
+a sand stream. They said that they had bought two slaves, but they had
+run away from them, and asked us to remain with them; more civil than
+inviting. We came on to Makochera, the principal headman in this
+quarter, and found him a merry laughing mortal, without any good looks
+to recommend his genial smile,--low forehead, covered with deep
+wrinkles; flat nose, somewhat of the Assyrian shape; a big mouth and
+lean body. He complained of the Machinga (a Waiyau tribe north of him
+and the Rovuma) stealing his people. Lat. of village, 11 deg. 22' 49" S.
+The river being about 2' north, still shows that it makes a trend to
+the north after we pass Ngomano. Makochera has been an elephant
+hunter. Few acknowledge as a reason for slaving that sowing and
+spinning cotton for clothing is painful. I waited some days for the
+Nassick boys, who are behind, though we could not buy any food except
+at enormous prices and long distances off.
+
+_7th June, 1866._--The havildar and two sepoys came up with Abraham,
+but Richard, a Nassick boy, is still behind from weakness. I sent
+three off to help him with the only cordials we could muster. The
+sepoys sometimes profess inability to come on, but it is unwillingness
+to encounter hardship: I must move on whether they come or not, for we
+cannot obtain food here. I sent the sepoys some cloth, and on the 8th
+proposed to start, but every particle of food had been devoured the
+night before, so we despatched two parties to scour the country round,
+and give any price rather than want.
+
+I could not prevail on Makochera to give me a specimen of poetry; he
+was afraid, neither he nor his forefathers had ever seen an
+Englishman. He thought that God was not good because He killed so many
+people. Dr. Roscher must have travelled as an Arab if he came this
+way, for he was not known.[10]
+
+_9th June, 1866._--We now left and marched through the same sort of
+forest, gradually ascending in altitude as we went west, then we came
+to huge masses of granite, or syenite, with flakes peeling off. They
+are covered with a plant with grassy-looking leaves and rough stalk
+which strips into portions similar to what are put round candles as
+ornaments. It makes these hills look light grey, with patches of
+black rock at the more perpendicular parts; the same at about ten
+miles off look dark blue. The ground is often hard and stony, but all
+covered over with grass and plants: looking down at it, the grass is
+in tufts, and like that on the Kalahari desert. Trees show uplands.
+One tree of which bark cloth is made, pterocarpus, is abundant.
+Timber-trees appear here and there, but for the most part the growth
+is stunted, and few are higher than thirty feet. We spent the night by
+a hill of the usual rounded form, called Njengo. The Rovuma comes
+close by, but leaves us again to wind among similar great masses. Lat.
+11 deg. 20' 05" S.
+
+_10th June, 1866._--A very heavy march through the same kind of
+country, no human habitation appearing; we passed a dead
+body--recently, it was said, starved to death. The large tract between
+Makochera's and our next station at Ngozo hill is without any
+perennial stream; water is found often by digging in the sand streams
+which we several times crossed; sometimes it was a trickling rill, but
+I suspect that at other seasons all is dry, and people are made
+dependent on the Rovuma alone. The first evidence of our being near
+the pleasant haunts of man was a nice little woman drawing water at a
+well. I had become separated from the rest: on giving me water she
+knelt down, and, as country manners require, held it up to me with
+_both_ hands. I had been misled by one of the carriers, who got
+confused, though the rounded mass of Ngozo was plainly visible from
+the heights we crossed east of it.
+
+An Arab party bolted on hearing of our approach: they don't trust the
+English, and this conduct increases our importance among the natives.
+Lat. 11 deg. 18' 10" S.
+
+_11th June, 1866._--Our carriers refuse to go further, because they
+say that they fear being captured here on their return.
+
+_12th June, 1866._--I paid off the carriers, and wait for a set from
+this. A respectable man, called Makoloya, or Impande, visited me, and
+wished to ask some questions as to where I was going, and how long I
+should be away. He had heard from a man who came from Ibo, or Wibo,
+about the Bible, a large book which was consulted.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo of Matambwe.]
+
+_13th June, 1866._--Makoloya brought his wife and a little corn, and
+says that his father told him that there is a God, but nothing more.
+The marks on their foreheads and bodies are meant only to give beauty
+in the dance, they seem a sort of heraldic ornament, for they can at
+once tell by his tattoo to what tribe or portion of tribe a man
+belongs. The tattoo or tembo of the Matambwe and Upper Makonde very
+much resembles the drawings of the old Egyptians; wavy lines, such as
+the ancients made to signify water, trees and gardens enclosed in
+squares, seem to have been meant of old for the inhabitants who lived
+on the Rovuma, and cultivated also, the son takes the tattoo of his
+father, and thus it has been perpetuated, though the meaning now
+appears lost. The Makoa have the half or nearly full moon, but it is,
+they say, all for ornament. Some blue stuff is rubbed into the cuts (I
+am told it is charcoal), and the ornament shows brightly in persons
+of light complexion, who by the bye are common. The Makonde and
+Matambwe file their front teeth to points; the Machinga, a Waiyan
+tribe, leave two points on the sides of the front teeth, and knock out
+one of the middle incisors above and below.
+
+[Illustration: Machinga and Waiyan Teeth.]
+
+_14th June, 1866._--I am now as much dependent on carriers as if I had
+never bought a beast of burden--but this is poor stuff to fill a
+journal with. We started off to Metaba to see if the chief there would
+lend some men. The headman, Kitwanga, went a long way to convoy us;
+then turned, saying he was going to get men for Musa next day. We
+passed near the base of the rounded masses Ngozo and Mekanga, and
+think, from a near inspection, that they are over 2000 feet above the
+plain, possibly 3000 feet, and nearly bare, with only the peculiar
+grassy plant on some parts which are not too perpendicular. The people
+are said to have stores of grain on them, and on one the chief said
+there is water; he knows of no stone buildings of the olden time in
+the country. We passed many masses of ferruginous conglomerate, and I
+noticed that most of the gneiss dips westwards. The striae seem as if
+the rock had been partially molten: at times the strike is north and
+south, at others east and west; when we come to what may have been its
+surface, it is as if the striae had been stirred with a rod while
+soft.
+
+We slept at a point of the Rovuma, above a cataract where a reach of
+comparatively still water, from 150 to 200 yards wide, allows a school
+of hippopotami to live: when the river becomes fordable in many
+places, as it is said to do in August and September, they must find it
+difficult to exist.
+
+_15th June, 1866._--Another three hours' march brought us from the
+sleeping-place on the Rovuma to Metaba, the chief of which, Kinazombe,
+is an elderly man, with a cunning and severe cast of countenance, and
+a nose Assyrian in type; he has built a large reception house, in
+which a number of half-caste Arabs have taken up their abode. A great
+many of the people have guns, and it is astonishing to see the number
+of slave-taming sticks abandoned along the road as the poor wretches
+gave in, and professed to have lost all hope of escape. Many huts have
+been built by the Arabs to screen themselves from the rain as they
+travelled. At Kinazombe's the second crop of maize is ready, so the
+hunger will not be very much felt.
+
+_16th June, 1866._--We heard very sombre accounts of the country in
+front:--four or five days to Mtarika, and then ten days through jungle
+to Mataka's town: little food at Mtarika's, but plenty with Mataka,
+who is near the Lake. The Rovuma trends southerly after we leave
+Ngozo, and Masusa on that river is pointed out as south-west from
+Metaba, so at Ngozo the river may be said to have its furthest
+northing. Masusa is reported to be five days, or at least fifty miles,
+from Metaba. The route now becomes south-west.
+
+The cattle of Africa are like the Indian buffalo, only partially
+tamed; they never give their milk without the presence of the calf or
+its stuffed skin, the "fulchan." The women adjacent to Mozambique
+partake a little of the wild animal's nature, for, like most members
+of the inferior races of animals, they refuse all intercourse with
+their husbands when enceinte and they continue this for about three
+years afterwards, or until the child is weaned, which usually happens
+about the third year. I was told, on most respectable authority, that
+many fine young native men marry one wife and live happily with her
+till this period; nothing will then induce her to continue to cohabit
+with him, and, as the separation is to continue for three years, the
+man is almost compelled to take up with another wife: this was
+mentioned to me as one of the great evils of society. The same
+absurdity prevails on the West Coast, and there it is said that the
+men acquiesce from ideas of purity.
+
+It is curious that trade-rum should form so important an article of
+import on the West Coast while it is almost unknown on the East Coast,
+for the same people began the commerce in both instances. If we look
+north of Cape Delgado, we might imagine that the religious convictions
+of the Arabs had something to do with the matter, but the Portuguese
+south of Cape Delgado have no scruples in the matter, and would sell
+their grandfathers as well as the rum if they could make money by the
+transaction, they have even erected distilleries to furnish a vile
+spirit from the fruit of the cashew and other fruits and grain, but
+the trade does not succeed. They give their slaves also rewards of
+spirit, or "maata bicho" ("kill the creature," or "craving within"),
+and you may meet a man who, having had much intercourse with
+Portuguese, may beg spirits, but the trade does not pay. The natives
+will drink it if furnished gratis. The indispensable "dash" of rum on
+the West Coast in every political transaction with independent chiefs
+is, however, quite unknown. The Moslems would certainly not abstain
+from trading in spirits were the trade profitable. They often asked
+for brandy from me in a sly way--as medicine; and when reminded that
+their religion forbade it, would say, "Oh, but we can drink it in
+secret."
+
+It is something in the nature of the people quite inexplicable, that
+throughout the Makonde country hernia humoralis prevails to a
+frightful extent; it is believed by the natives to be the result of
+beer drinking, so they cannot be considered as abstemious.
+
+_18th June, 1866._--Finding that Musa did not come up with the goods I
+left in his charge, and fearing that all was not right, we set off
+with all our hands who could carry, after service yesterday morning,
+and in six hours' hard tramp arrived here just in time, for a tribe of
+Wanindi, or Manindi, who are either Ajawas (Waiyau),[11] or pretended
+Mazitu, had tried to cross the Rovuma from the north bank. They came
+as plunderers, and Musa having received no assistance was now ready to
+defend the goods. A shot or two from the people of Kitwanga made the
+Wanindi desert after they had entered the water.
+
+Six sepoys and Simon had come up this length; Reuben and Mabruki
+reported Richard to be dead. This poor boy was left with the others at
+Liponde, and I never saw him again. I observed him associating too
+much with the sepoys; and often felt inclined to reprove him, as their
+conversation is usually very bad, but I could not of my own knowledge
+say so. He came on with the others as far as Hassane or Pachassane:
+there he was too weak to come further, and as the sepoys were
+notoriously skulkers, I feared that poor Richard was led away by them,
+for I knew that they had made many attempts to draw away the other
+Nassick boys from their duty. When, however, Abraham came up and
+reported Richard left behind by the sepoys, I became alarmed, and sent
+off three boys with cordials to help him on: two days after Abraham
+left he seems to have died, and I feel very sorry that I was not there
+to do what I could. I am told now that he never consented to the sepoy
+temptation: he said to Abraham that he wished he were dead, he was so
+much troubled. The people where he died were not v$ry civil to Simon.
+
+The sepoys had now made themselves such an utter nuisance that I felt
+that I must take the upper hand with them, so I called them up this
+morning, and asked if they knew the punishment they had incurred by
+disobeying orders, and attempting to tamper with the Nassick boys to
+turn them back. I told them they not only remained in the way when
+ordered to march, but offered eight rupees to Ali to lead them to the
+coast, and that the excuse of sickness was nought, for they had eaten
+heartily three meals a day while pretending illness. They had no
+excuse to offer, so I disrated the naik or corporal, and sentenced the
+others to carry loads; if they behave well, then they will get fatigue
+pay for doing fatigue duty, if ill, nothing but their pay. Their limbs
+are becoming contracted from sheer idleness; while all the other men
+are well and getting stronger they alone are disreputably slovenly and
+useless-looking. Their filthy habits are to be reformed, and if found
+at their habit of sitting down and sleeping for hours on the march, or
+without their muskets and pouches, they are to be flogged. I sent two
+of them back to bring up two comrades, left behind yesterday. All who
+have done work are comparatively strong.
+
+[We may venture a word in passing on the subject of native recruits,
+enlisted for service in Africa, and who return thither after a long
+absence. All the Nassick boys were native-born Africans, and yet we
+see one of them succumb immediately. The truth is that natives; under
+these circumstances, are just as liable to the effects of malaria on
+landing as Europeans, although it is not often that fever assumes a
+dangerous form in such cases. The natives of the interior have the
+greatest dread of the illnesses which they say are sure to be in store
+for them if they visit the coast.]
+
+_19th June, 1866._--I gave the sepoys light loads in order to inure
+them to exercise and strengthen them, and they carried willingly so
+long as the fright was on them, but when the fear of immediate
+punishment wore off they began their skulking again. One, Perim,
+reduced his load of about 20 lbs. of tea by throwing away the lead in
+which it was rolled, and afterwards about 15 lbs. of the tea, thereby
+diminishing our stock to 5 lbs.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone's short stay in England in 1864-5 was mainly taken up
+with compiling an account of his travels on the Zambesi and Shire:
+during this time his mother expired in Scotland at a good old age.
+When he went back to Africa he took with him, as part of his very
+scanty travelling equipment, a number of letters which he received
+from friends at different times in England, and he very often quoted
+them when he had an opportunity of sending letters home. We come to an
+entry at this time which shows that in these reminiscences he had not
+thus preserved an unmixed pleasure. He says:--]
+
+I lighted on a telegram to-day:--"Your mother died at noon on the 18th
+June."
+
+This was in 1865: it affected me not a little.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] Further on we found it called Nkonya.
+
+[10] It will be remembered that this German traveller was murdered
+near Lake Nyassa. The native chiefs denounced his assassins, and sent
+them to Zanzibar, where they were executed.--ED.
+
+[11] Further westward amongst the Manganja or Nyassa people the Waiyan
+tribe is called "Ajawa," and we find Livingstone always speaking of
+them as Ajawas in his previous explorations on the River Rovuma. (See
+'The Zambesi and its Tributaries.')--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's.
+    Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of
+    slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyan metropolis.
+    Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen
+    cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness
+    of climate. The Waiyan people and their peculiarities. Regrets
+    at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans.
+
+_19th June, 1866._--We passed a woman tied by the neck to a tree and
+dead, the people of the country explained that she had been unable to
+keep up with the other slaves in a gang, and her master had determined
+that she should not become the property of anyone else if she
+recovered after resting for a time. I may mention here that we saw
+others tied up in a similar manner, and one lying in the path shot or
+stabbed[12], for she was in a pool of blood. The explanation we got
+invariably was that the Arab who owned these victims was enraged at
+losing his money by the slaves becoming unable to march, and vented
+his spleen by murdering them; but I have nothing more than common
+report in support of attributing this enormity to the Arabs.
+
+_20th June, 1866._--Having returned to Metaba, we were told by
+Kinazombe, the chief, that no one had grain to sell but himself. He
+had plenty of powder and common cloth from the Arabs, and our only
+chance with him was parting with our finer cloths and other things
+that took his fancy. He magnified the scarcity in front in order to
+induce us to buy all we could from him, but he gave me an ample meal
+of porridge and guinea-fowl before starting.
+
+_21st June, 1866._--We had difficulties about carriers, but on
+reaching an island in the Rovuma, called Chimiki, we found the people
+were Makoa and more civil and willing to work than the Waiyau: we sent
+men back to bring up the havildar to a very civil headman called
+Chirikaloma.
+
+_22nd June, 1866._--A poor little boy with prolapsus ani was carried
+yesterday by his mother many a weary mile, lying over her right
+shoulder--the only position he could find ease in,--an infant at the
+breast occupied the left arm, and on her head were carried two
+baskets. The mother's love was seen in binding up the part when we
+halted, whilst the coarseness of low civilization was evinced in the
+laugh with which some black brutes looked at the sufferer.
+
+_23rd June, 1866._--The country is covered with forest, much more open
+than further east. We are now some 800 feet above the sea. The people
+all cultivate maize near the Rovuma, and on islands where moisture
+helps them, nearly all possess guns, and plenty of powder and fine
+beads,--red ones strung on the hair, and fine blue ones in rolls on
+the neck, fitted tightly like soldiers' stocks. The lip-ring is
+universal; teeth filed to points.
+
+_24th June, 1866._--Immense quantities of wood are cut down, collected
+in heaps, and burned to manure the land, but this does not prevent the
+country having an appearance of forest. Divine service at 8.30 A.M.;
+great numbers looking on. They have a clear idea of the Supreme Being,
+but do not pray to Him.. Cold south winds prevail; temp. 55 deg. One of
+the mules is very ill--it was left with the havildar when we went back
+to Ngozo, and probably remained uncovered at night, for as soon as we
+saw it, illness was plainly visible. Whenever an animal has been in
+their power the sepoys have abused it. It is difficult to feel
+charitably to fellows whose scheme seems to have been to detach the
+Nassick boys from me first, then, when the animals were all killed,
+the Johanna men, afterwards they could rule me as they liked, or go
+back and leave me to perish; but I shall try to feel as charitably as
+I can in spite of it all, for the mind has a strong tendency to brood
+over the ills of travel. I told the havildar when I came up to him at
+Metaba what I had done, and that I was very much displeased with the
+sepoys for compassing my failure, if not death; an unkind word had
+never passed my lips to them: to this he could bear testimony. He
+thought that they would only be a plague and trouble to me, but he
+"would go on and die with me."
+
+Stone boiling is unknown in these countries, but ovens are made in
+anthills. Holes are dug in the ground for baking the heads of large
+game, as the zebra, feet of elephants, humps of rhinoceros, and the
+production of fire by drilling between the palms of the hands is
+universal. It is quite common to see the sticks so used attached to
+the clothing or bundles in travelling; they wet the blunt end of the
+upright stick with the tongue, and dip it in the sand to make some
+particles of silica adhere before inserting it in the horizontal
+piece. The wood of a certain wild fig-tree is esteemed as yielding
+fire readily.
+
+In wet weather they prefer to carry fire in the dried balls of
+elephants' dung which are met with--the male's being about eight
+inches in diameter and about a foot long: they also employ the stalk
+of a certain plant which grows on rocky places for the same purpose.
+
+We bought a senze, or _Aulacaudatus Swindernianus_, which had been
+dried over a slow fire. This custom of drying fish, flesh, and fruits,
+on stages over slow fires, is practised very generally: the use of
+salt for preservation is unknown. Besides stages for drying, the
+Makonde use them about six feet high for sleeping on instead of the
+damp ground: a fire beneath helps to keep off the mosquitoes, and they
+are used by day as convenient resting-places and for observation.
+
+Pottery seems to have been known to the Africans from the remotest
+times, for fragments are found everywhere, even among the oldest
+fossil bones in the country. Their pots for cooking, holding water and
+beer, are made by the women, and the form is preserved by the eye
+alone, for no sort of machine is ever used. A foundation or bottom is
+first laid, and a piece of bone or bamboo used to scrape the clay or
+to smooth over the pieces which are added to increase the roundness;
+the vessel is then left a night: the next morning a piece is added to
+the rim--as the air is dry several rounds may be added--and all is
+then carefully smoothed off; afterwards it is thoroughly sun-dried. A
+light fire of dried cow-dung, or corn-stalks, or straw, and grass with
+twigs, is made in a hole in the ground for the final baking. Ornaments
+are made on these pots of black lead, or before being hardened by the
+sun they are ornamented for a couple or three inches near the rim, all
+the tracery being in imitation of plaited basket work.
+
+Chirikaloma says that the surname of the Makoa, to whom he belongs, is
+Mirazi--others have the surname Melola or Malola--Chimposola. All had
+the half-moon mark when in the south-east, but now they leave it off a
+good deal and adopt the Waiyau marks, because of living in their
+country. They show no indications of being named after beasts and
+birds. Mirazi was an ancestor; they eat all clean animals, but refuse
+the hyaena, leopard, or any beast that devours dead men.[13]
+
+_25th June, 1866._--On leaving Chirikaloma we came on to Namalo,
+whose village that morning had been deserted, the people moving off in
+a body towards the Matambwe country, where food is more abundant. A
+poor little girl was left in one of the huts from being too weak to
+walk, probably an orphan. The Arab slave-traders flee from the path as
+soon as they hear of our approach. The Rovuma is from 56 to 80 yards
+wide here. No food to be had for either love or money.
+
+Near many of the villages we observe a wand bent and both ends
+inserted into the ground: a lot of medicine, usually the bark of
+trees, is buried beneath it. When sickness is in a village, the men
+proceed to the spot, wash themselves with the medicine and water,
+creep through beneath the bough, then bury the medicine and the evil
+influence together. This is also used to keep off evil spirits, wild
+beasts, and enemies.
+
+Chirikaloma told us of a child in his tribe which was deformed from
+his birth. He had an abortive toe where his knee should have been;
+some said to his mother, "Kill him;" but she replied, "How can I kill
+my son?" He grew up and had many fine sons and daughters, but none
+deformed like himself: this was told in connection with an answer to
+my question about the treatment of Albinoes: he said they did not kill
+them, but they never grew to manhood. On inquiring if he had ever
+heard of cannibals, or people with tails, he replied, "Yes, but we
+have always understood that these and other monstrosities are met with
+only among you sea-going people." The other monstrosities he referred
+to were those who are said to have eyes behind the head as well as in
+front: I have heard of them before, but then I was near Angola, in the
+west.
+
+The rains are expected here when the Pleiades appear in the east soon
+after sunset; they go by the same name here as further south--Lemila
+or the "hoeings."
+
+In the route along the Rovuma, we pass among people who are so well
+supplied with white calico by the slave-trade from Kilwa, that it is
+quite a drug in the market: we cannot get food for it. If we held on
+westwards we should cross several rivers flowing into the Rovuma from
+the southward, as the Zandulo, the Sanjenze, the Lochiringo, and then,
+in going round the north end of Nyassa, we should pass among the
+Nindi, who now inhabit the parts vacated by the Mazitu, and imitate
+them in having shields and in marauding. An Arab party went into their
+country, and got out again only by paying a whole bale of calico; it
+would not be wise in me to venture there at present, but if we return
+this way we may; meanwhile we shall push on to Mataka, who is only a
+few days off from the middle of the Lake, and has abundance of
+provisions.
+
+_26th June, 1866._--My last mule died. In coming along in the morning
+we were loudly accosted by a well-dressed woman who had just had a
+very heavy slave-taming stick put on her neck; she called in such an
+authoritative tone to us to witness the flagrant injustice of which
+she was the victim that all the men stood still and went to hear the
+case. She was a near relative of Chirikaloma, and was going up the
+river to her husband, when the old man (at whose house she was now a
+prisoner) caught her, took her servant away from her, and kept her in
+the degraded state we saw. The withes with which she was bound were
+green and sappy. The old man said in justification that she was
+running away from Chirikaloma, and he would be offended with him if he
+did not secure her.
+
+I asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly tone what he
+expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said, "Nothing." Several
+slaver-looking fellows came about, and I felt sure that the woman had
+been seized in order to sell her to them, so I gave the captor a cloth
+to pay to Chirikaloma if he were offended, and told him to say that
+I, feeling ashamed to see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had
+released her, and would, take her on to her husband.
+
+She is evidently a lady among them, having many fine beads and some
+strung on elephant's hair: she has a good deal of spirit too, for on
+being liberated she went into the old man's house and took her basket
+and calabash. A virago of a wife shut the door and tried to prevent
+her, as well as to cut off the beads from her person, but she resisted
+like a good one, and my men thrust the door open and let her out, but
+minus her slave. The other wife--for old officious had two--joined her
+sister in a furious tirade of abuse, the elder holding her sides in
+regular fishwife fashion till I burst into a laugh, in which the
+younger wife joined. I explained to the different headmen in front of
+this village what I had done, and sent messages to Chirikaloma
+explanatory of my friendly deed to his relative, so that no
+misconstruction should be put on my act.
+
+We passed a slave woman shot or stabbed through the body and lying on
+the path: a group of mon stood about a hundred yards off on one side,
+and another of women on the other side, looking on; they said an Arab
+who passed early that morning had done it in anger at losing the price
+he had given for her, because she was unable to walk any longer.
+
+_27th June, 1866._--To-day we came upon a man dead from starvation, as
+he was very thin. One of our men wandered and found a number of slaves
+with slave-sticks on, abandoned by their master from want of food;
+they were too weak to be able to speak or say where they had come
+from; some were quite young. We crossed the Tulosi, a stream coming
+from south, about twenty yards wide.
+
+At Chenjewala's the people are usually much startled when I explain
+that the numbers of slaves we see dead on the road have been killed
+partly by those who sold them, for I tell them that if they sell
+their fellows, they are like the man who holds the victim while the
+Arab performs the murder.
+
+Chenjewala blamed Machemba, a chief above him on the Rovuma, for
+encouraging the slave-trade; I told him I had travelled so much among
+them that I knew all the excuses they could make, each headman blamed
+some one else.
+
+"It would be better if you kept your people and cultivated more
+largely," said I, "Oh, Machemba sends his men and robs our gardens
+after we have cultivated," was the reply. One man said that the Arabs
+who come and tempt them with fine clothes are the cause of their
+selling: this was childish, so I told them they would very soon have
+none to sell: their country was becoming jungle, and all their people
+who did not die in the road would be making gardens for Arabs at Kilwa
+and elsewhere.
+
+_28th June, 1866._--When we got about an hour from Chenjewala's we
+came to a party in the act of marauding; the owners of the gardens
+made off for the other side of the river, and waved to us to go
+against the people of Machemba, but we stood on a knoll with all our
+goods on the ground, and waited to see how matters would turn out. Two
+of the marauders came to us and said they had captured five people. I
+suppose they took us for Arabs, as they addressed Musa. They then took
+some green maize, and so did some of my people, believing that as all
+was going, they who were really starving might as well have a share.
+
+I went on a little way with the two marauders, and by the footprints
+thought the whole party might amount to four or five with guns; the
+gardens and huts were all deserted. A poor woman was sitting, cooking
+green maize, and one of the men ordered her to follow him. I said to
+him, "Let her alone, she is dying." "Yes," said he, "of hunger," and
+went'on without her.
+
+We passed village after village, and gardens all deserted! We were
+now between two contending parties. We slept at one garden; and as we
+were told by Chenjewala's people to take what we liked, and my men had
+no food, we gleaned what congo beans, bean leaves, and sorghum stalks
+we could,--poor fare enough, but all we could get.
+
+_29th June, 1866._--We came onto Machemba's brother, Chimseia, who
+gave us food at once. The country is now covered with deeper soil, and
+many large acacia-trees grow in the rich loam: the holms too are
+large, and many islands afford convenient maize grounds. One of the
+Nassiek lads came up and reported his bundle, containing 240 yards of
+calico, had been stolen; he went aside, leaving it on the path
+(probably fell asleep), and it was gone when he came back. I cannot
+impress either on them or the sepoys that it is wrong to sleep on the
+march.
+
+Akosakone, whom we had liberated, now arrived at the residence of her
+husband, who was another brother of Machemba. She behaved like a lady
+all through, sleeping at a fire apart from the men. The ladies of the
+different villages we passed condoled with her, and she related to
+them the indignity that had been done to her. Besides this she did us
+many services: she bought food for us, because, having a good address,
+we saw that she could get double what any of our men could purchase
+for the same cloth; she spoke up for us when any injustice was
+attempted, and, when we were in want of carriers, volunteered to carry
+a bag of beads on her head. On arriving at Machemba's brother,
+Chimseia, she introduced me to him, and got him to be liberal to us in
+food on account of the service we had rendered to her. She took leave
+of us all with many expressions of thankfulness, and we were glad that
+we had not mistaken her position or lavished kindness on the
+undeserving.
+
+One Johanna man was caught stealing maize, then another, after I had
+paid for the first. I sent a request to the chief not to make much of
+a grievance about it, as I was very much ashamed at my men stealing;
+he replied that he had liked me from the first, and I was not to fear,
+as whatever service he could do he would most willingly in order to
+save me pain and trouble. A sepoy now came up having given his musket
+to a man to carry, who therefore demanded payment. As it had become a
+regular nuisance for the sepoys to employ people to carry for them,
+telling them that I would pay, I demanded why he had promised in my
+name. "Oh, it was but a little way he carried the musket," said he.
+Chimseia warned us next morning, 30th June, against allowing any one
+to straggle or steal in front, for stabbing and plundering were the
+rule. The same sepoy who had employed a man to carry his musket now
+came forward, with his eyes fixed and shaking all over. This, I was to
+understand, meant extreme weakness; but I had accidentally noticed him
+walking quite smartly before this exhibition, so I ordered him to keep
+close to the donkey that carried the havildar's luggage, and on no
+account to remain behind the party. He told the havildar that he would
+sit down only for a little while; and, I suppose, fell asleep, for he
+came up to us in the evening as naked as a robin.
+
+I saw another person bound to a tree and dead--a sad sight to see,
+whoever was the perpetrator. So many slave-sticks lie along our path,
+that I suspect the people here-about make a practice of liberating
+what slaves they cian find abandoned on the march, to sell them again.
+
+A large quantity of maize is cultivated at Chimsaka's, at whose place
+we this day arrived. We got a supply, but being among thieves, we
+thought it advisable to move on to the next place (Mtarika's). When
+starting, we found that fork, kettle, pot, and shot-pouch had been
+taken. The thieves, I observed, kept up a succession of jokes with
+Chuma and Wikatani and when the latter was enjoying them, gaping to
+the sky, they were busy putting the things of which he had charge
+under their cloths! I spoke to the chief, and he got the three first
+articles back for me.
+
+A great deal if not all the lawlessness of this quarter is the result
+of the slave-trade, for the Arabs buy whoever is brought to them and
+in a country covered with forest as this is, kidnapping can be
+prosecuted with the greatest ease; elsewhere the people are honest,
+and have a regard for justice.
+
+_1st July, 1866._--As we approach Mtarika's place, the country becomes
+more mountainous and the land sloping for a mile down to the south
+bank of the Rovuma supports a large population. Some were making new
+gardens by cutting down trees and piling the branches for burning;
+others had stored tip large quantities of grain and were moving it to
+a new locality, but they were all so well supplied with calico
+(Merikano) that they would not look at ours: the market was in fact
+glutted by slavers from (Quiloa) Kilwa. On asking why people were seen
+tied to trees to die as we had seen them, they gave the usual answer
+that the Arabs tie them thus and leave them to perish, because they
+are vexed, when the slaves can walk no further, that they have lost
+their money by them. The path is almost strewed with slave-sticks, and
+though the people denied it, I suspect that they make a practice of
+following slave caravans and cutting off the sticks from those who
+fall out in the march, and thus stealing them. By selling them again
+they get the quantities of cloth we see. Some asked for gaudy prints,
+of which we had none, because we knew that the general taste of the
+Africans of the Interior is for strength rather than show in what they
+buy.
+
+The Rovuma here is about 100 yards broad, and still keeps up its
+character of a rapid stream, with sandy banks and islands: the latter
+are generally occupied, as being defensible when the river is in
+flood.
+
+_2nd July, 1866._--We rested at Mtarika's old place; and though we had
+to pay dearly with our best table-cloths[14] for it, we got as much as
+made one meal a day. At the same dear rate we could give occasionally
+only two ears of maize to each man; and if the sepoys got their
+comrades' corn into their hands, they eat it without shame. We had to
+bear a vast amount of staring, for the people, who are Waiyau, have a
+great deal of curiosity, and are occasionally rather rude. They have
+all heard of our wish to stop the slave-trade, and are rather taken
+aback when told that by selling they are part and part guilty of the
+mortality of which we had been unwilling spectators. Some were
+dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of their Maker they are parties
+to the destruction of human life which accompanies this traffic both
+by sea and land. If they did not sell, the Arabs would not come to
+buy. Chuma and Wakatani render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau,
+most of the people being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling of
+slaves. Chimseia, Chimsaka, Mtarika, Mtende, Makanjela, Mataka, and
+all the chiefs and people in our route to the Lake, are Waiyau, or
+Waiau.[15]
+
+On the southern slope down to the river there are many oozing springs
+and damp spots where rice has been sown and reaped. The adjacent land
+has yielded large crops of sorghum, congo-beans, and pumpkins.
+Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My appearance and acts often
+cause a burst of laughter; sudden standing up produces a flight of
+women and children. To prevent peeping into the hut which I occupy,
+and making the place quite dark, I do my writing in the verandah.
+Chitane, the poodle dog, the buffalo-calf, and our only remaining
+donkey are greeted with the same amount of curiosity and
+laughter-exciting comment as myself.
+
+Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard from the
+different villages along the river; these are imitation evening guns.
+All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing tobacco with "nora" lime, made
+from burnt river shells instead of betel-nut and lime. The women are
+stout, well-built persons, with thick arms and legs; their heads
+incline to the bullet shape; the lip-rings are small; the tattoo a
+mixture of Makoa and Waiyau. Fine blue and black beads are in fashion,
+and so are arm-coils of thick brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are
+worn in the hair; the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got
+from the root of an orchis called _Nangazu_.
+
+_3rd July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Mtarika's new place.
+The chief made his appearance only after he had ascertained all he
+could about us. The population is immense; they are making new
+gardens, and the land is laid out by straight lines about a foot
+broad, cut with the hoe; one goes miles without getting beyond the
+marked or surveyed fields.
+
+Mtarika came at last; a big ugly man, with large mouth and receding
+forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, as the watch, revolver,
+breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave him a lecture on the evil of
+selling his people, and he wished me to tell all the other chiefs the
+same thing.
+
+They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for having sold
+many who have lost their lives on their way down to the sea-coast. We
+had a long visit from Mtarika next day; he gave us meal, and meat of
+wild hog, with a salad made of bean-leaves. A wretched Swaheli Arab,
+ill with rheumatism, came for aid, and got a cloth. They all profess
+to me to be buying ivory only.
+
+_5th July, 1866._--We left for Mtende, who is the last chief before
+we enter on a good eight days' march to Mataka's; we might have gone
+to Kandulo's, who is near the Rovuma, and more to the north, but all
+are so well supplied with everything by slave-traders that we have
+difficulty in getting provisions at all. Mataka has plenty of all
+kinds of food. On the way we passed the burnt bones of a person Avho
+was accused of having eaten human flesh; he had been poisoned, or, as
+they said, killed by poison (muave?), and then burned. His clothes
+were hung, up on trees by the wayside as a warning to others. The
+country was covered with scraggy forest, but so undulating that one
+could often see all around from the crest of the waves. Great mountain
+masses appear in the south and south-west. It feels cold, and the sky
+is often overcast.
+
+_6th July, 1866._--I took lunars yesterday, after which Mtende invited
+us to eat at his house where he had provided a large mess of rice
+porridge and bean-leaves as a relish. He says that many Arabs pass him
+and many of them die in their journeys. He knows no deaf or dumb
+person in the country. He says that he cuts the throats of all animals
+to be eaten, and does not touch lion or hyaena.
+
+_7th July, 1866._--We got men from Mtende to carry loads and show the
+way. He asked a cloth to ensure his people going to the journey's end
+and behaving properly; this is the only case of anything like tribute
+being demanded in this journey: I gave him a cloth worth 5s. 6d.
+Upland vegetation prevails; trees are dotted here and there among
+bushes five feet high, and fine blue and yellow flowers are common. We
+pass over a succession of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley
+has a running stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full
+bloom, and also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath the
+flowers.
+
+When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead lining, I only
+reproved him and promised him punishment if he committed any other
+wilful offence, but now he and another skulked behind and gave their
+loads to a stranger to carry, with a promise to him that I would pay.
+We waited two hours for them; and as the havildar said that they would
+not obey him, I gave Perim and the other some smart cuts with a cane,
+but I felt that I was degrading myself, and resolved not to do the
+punishment myself again.
+
+_8th July, 1866._--Hard travelling through a depopulated country. The
+trees are about the size of hop-poles with abundance of tall grass;
+the soil is sometimes a little sandy, at other times that reddish,
+clayey sort which yields native grain so well. The rock seen uppermost
+is often a ferruginous conglomerate, lying on granite rocks. The
+gum-copal tree is here a mere bush, and no digging takes place for the
+gum: it is called Mchenga, and yields gum when wounded, as also bark,
+cloth, and cordage when stripped. Mountain masses are all around us;
+we sleep at Linata mountain.
+
+_9th July, 1866._--The Masuko fruit abounds: the name is the same here
+as in the Batoka country; there are also rhododendrons of two species,
+but the flowers white. We slept in a wild spot, near Mount Leziro,
+with many lions roaring about us; one hoarse fellow serenaded us a
+long time, but did nothing more. Game is said to be abundant, but we
+saw none, save an occasional diver springing away from the path. Some
+streams ran to the north-west to the Lismyando, which flows N. for the
+Rovuma; others to the south-east for the Loendi.
+
+_10th and 11th July, 1866._--Nothing to interest but the same weary
+trudge: our food so scarce that we can only give a handful or half a
+pound of grain to each person per day. The Masuko fruit is formed, but
+not ripe till rains begin; very few birds are seen or heard, though
+there is both food and water in the many grain-bearing grasses and
+running streams, which we cross at the junction of every two ridges.
+A dead body lay in a hut by the wayside; the poor thing had begun to
+make a garden by the stream, probably in hopes of living long enough
+(two months or so) on wild fruits to reap a crop of maize.
+
+_12th July, 1866._--A drizzling mist set in during the night and
+continued this morning, we set off in the dark, however, leaving our
+last food for the havildar and sepoys who had not yet come up. The
+streams are now of good size. An Arab brandy bottle was lying broken
+in one village called Msapa. We hurried on as fast as we could to the
+Luatize, our last stage before getting to Mataka's; this stream is
+rapid, about forty yards wide, waist deep, with many podostemons on
+the bottom. The country gets more and more undulating and is covered
+with masses of green foliage, chiefly Masuko trees, which have large
+hard leaves. There are hippopotami further down the river on its way
+to the Loendi. A little rice which had been kept for me I divided, but
+some did not taste food.
+
+_13th July, 1866._--A good many stragglers behind, but we push on to
+get food and send it back to them. The soil all reddish clay, the
+roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of many of us are weary and
+sore: a weary march and long, for it is perpetually up and down now. I
+counted fifteen running streams in one day: they are at the bottom of
+the valley which separates the ridges. We got to the brow of a ridge
+about an hour from Mataka's first gardens, and all were so tired that
+we remained to sleep; but we first invited volunteers to go on and buy
+food, and bring it back early next morning: they had to be pressed to
+do this duty.
+
+_14th July, 1866._--As our volunteers did not come at 8 A.M., I set
+off to see the cause, and after an hour of perpetual up and down
+march, as I descended the steep slope which overlooks the first
+gardens, I saw my friends start up at the apparition--they were
+comfortably cooking porridge for themselves! I sent men of Mataka
+back with food to the stragglers behind and came on to his town.
+
+An Arab, Sef Rupia or Rubea, head of a large body of slaves, on his
+way to the coast, most kindly came forward and presented an ox, bag of
+flour, and some cooked meat, all of which were extremely welcome to
+half-famished men, or indeed under any circumstances. He had heard of
+our want of food and of a band of sepoys, and what could the English
+think of doing but putting an end to the slave-trade? Had he seen our
+wretched escort, all fear of them would have vanished! He had a large
+safari or caravan under him. This body is usually divided into ten or
+twelve portions, and all are bound to obey the leader to a certain
+extent: in this case there were eleven parties, and the traders
+numbered about sixty or seventy, who were dark coast Arabs. Each
+underling had his men under him, and when I saw them they were busy
+making the pens of branches in which their slaves and they sleep. Sef
+came on with me to Mataka's, and introduced me in due form with
+discharges of gunpowder. I asked him to come back next morning, and
+presented three cloths with a request that he would assist the
+havildar and sepoys, if he met them, with food: this he generously
+did.
+
+We found Mataka's town situated in an elevated valley surrounded by
+mountains; the houses numbered at least 1000, and there were many
+villages around. The mountains were pleasantly green, and had many
+trees which the people were incessantly cutting down. They had but
+recently come here: they were besieged by Mazitu at their former
+location west of this; after fighting four days they left unconquered,
+having beaten the enemy off.
+
+Mataka kept us waiting some time in the verandah of his large square
+house, and then made his appearance, smiling with his good-natured
+face. He is about sixty years of age, dressed as an Arab, and if we
+may judge from the laughter with which his remarks were always
+greeted, somewhat humorous. He had never seen any but Arabs before. He
+gave me a square house to live in, indeed the most of the houses here
+are square, for the Arabs are imitated in everything: they have
+introduced the English pea, and we were pleased to see large patches
+of it in full bearing, and ripe in moist hollows which had been
+selected for it. The numerous springs which come out at various parts
+are all made use of. Those parts which are too wet are drained, whilst
+beds are regularly irrigated by water-courses and ridges: we had
+afterwards occasion to admire the very extensive draining which has
+been effected among the hills. Cassava is cultivated on ridges along
+all the streets in the town, which give it a somewhat regular and neat
+appearance. Peas and tobacco were the chief products raised by
+irrigation, but batatas and maize were often planted too: wheat would
+succeed if introduced. The altitude is about 2700 feet above the sea:
+the air at this time is cool, and many people have coughs.
+
+Mataka soon sent a good mess of porridge and cooked meat (beef); he
+has plenty of cattle and sheep: and the next day he sent abundance of
+milk. We stand a good deal of staring unmoved, though it is often
+accompanied by remarks by no means complimentary; they think that they
+are not understood, and probably I do misunderstand sometimes. The
+Waiyau jumble their words as I think, and Mataka thought that I did
+not enunciate anything, but kept my tongue still when I spoke.
+
+Town of Matak, Moembe. _15th July, 1866._--The safari under Sef set
+off this morning for Kilwa. Sef says that about 100 of the Kilwa
+people died this year, so slaving as well as philanthropy is
+accompanied with loss of life: we saw about seven of their graves; the
+rest died on the road up.
+
+There are two roads from this to the Lake, one to Losewa, which is
+west of this, and opposite Kotakota; the other, to Makatu, is further
+south: the first is five days through deserted country chiefly; but
+the other, seven, among people and plenty of provisions all the way.
+
+It struck me after Sef had numbered up the losses that the Kilwa
+people sustained by death in their endeavours to "nslave people,
+similar losses on the part of those who go to "proclaim liberty to the
+captives, the opening of the prison to them that are bound,"--to save
+and elevate, need not be made so very much of as they sometimes are.
+
+Soon after our arrival we heard that a number of Mataka's Waiyau had,
+without his knowledge, gone to Nyassa, and in a foray carried off
+cattle and people: when they came home with the spoil, Mataka ordered
+all to be sent back whence they came. The chief came up to visit me
+soon after, and I told him that his decision was the best piece of
+news I had heard in the country: he was evidently pleased with my
+approbation, and, turning to his people, asked if they heard what I
+said. He repeated my remark, and said, "You silly fellows think me
+wrong in returning the captives, but all wise men will approve of it,"
+and he then scolded them roundly.
+
+I was accidentally spectator of this party going back, for on going
+out of the town I saw a meat market opened, and people buying with
+maize and meal. On inquiring, I was told that the people and cattle
+there were the Nyassas, and they had slaughtered an ox, in order to
+exchange meat for grain as provisions on the journey. The women and
+children numbered fifty-four, and about a dozen boys were engaged in
+milking the cows: the cattle were from twenty-five to thirty head.
+
+The change from hard and scanty fare caused illness in several of our
+party. I had tasted no animal food except what turtle-doves and
+guinea-fowls could be shot since we passed Matawatawa,--true, a fowl
+was given by Mtende. The last march was remarkable for the scarcity of
+birds, so eight days were spent on porridge and rice without relish.
+
+I gave Mataka a trinket, to be kept in remembrance of his having sent
+back the Nyassa people: he replied that he would always act in a
+similar manner. As it was a spontaneous act, it was all the more
+valuable.
+
+The sepoys have become quite intolerable, and if I cannot get rid of
+them we shall all starve before we accomplish what we wish. They
+dawdle behind picking up wild fruits, and over our last march (which
+we accomplished on the morning of the eighth day) they took from
+fourteen to twenty-two days. Retaining their brutal feelings to the
+last they killed the donkey which I lent to the havildar to carry his
+things, by striking it on the head when in boggy places into which
+they had senselessly driven it loaded; then the havildar came on (his
+men pretending they could go no further from weakness), and killed the
+young buffalo and eat it when they thought they could hatch up a
+plausible story. They said it had died, and tigers came and devoured
+it--they saw them. "Did you see the stripes of the tiger?" said I. All
+declared that they saw the stripes distinctly. This gave us an idea of
+their truthfulness, as there is no striped tiger in all Africa. All
+who resolved on skulking or other bad behaviour invariably took up
+with the sepoys; their talk seemed to suit evil-doers, and they were
+such a disreputable-looking lot that I was quite ashamed of them. The
+havildar had no authority, and all bore the sulky dogged look of
+people going where they were forced but hated to go. This hang-dog
+expression of countenance was so conspicuous that I many a time have
+heard the country people remark, "These are the slaves of the party."
+They have neither spirit nor pluck as compared with the Africans, and
+if one saw a village he turned out of the way to beg in the most
+abject manner, or lay down and slept, the only excuse afterwards
+being, "My legs were sore." Having allowed some of them to sleep at
+the fire in my house, they began a wholesale plunder of everything
+they could sell, as cartridges, cloths, and meat, so I had to eject
+them. One of them then threatened to shoot my interpreter Simon if he
+got him in a quiet place away from the English power. As this threat
+had been uttered three times, and I suspect that something of the kind
+had prevented the havildar exerting his authority, I resolved to get
+rid of them by sending them back to the coast by the first trader. It
+is likely that some sympathizers will take their part, but I strove to
+make them useful. They had but poor and scanty fare in a part of the
+way, but all of us suffered alike. They made themselves thoroughly
+disliked by their foul talk and abuse, and if anything tended more
+than another to show me that theirs was a moral unfitness for travel,
+it was the briskness assumed when they knew they were going back to
+the coast. I felt inclined to force them on, but it would have been
+acting from revenge, and to pay them out, so I forbore. I gave Mataka
+forty-eight yards of calico, and to the sepoys eighteen yards, and
+arranged that he should give them food till Suleiman, a respectable
+trader, should arrive. He was expected every day, and we passed him
+near the town. If they chose to go and get their luggage, it was of
+course all safe for them behind. The havildar begged still to go on
+with me, and I consented, though he is a drag on the party, but he
+will count in any difficulty.
+
+Abraham recognised his uncle among the crowds who came to see us. On
+making himself known he found that his mother and two sisters had been
+sold to the Arabs after he had been enslaved. The uncle pressed him to
+remain, and Mataka urged, and so did another uncle, but in vain. I
+added my voice, and could have given him goods to keep him afloat a
+good while, but he invariably replied, "How can I stop where I have no
+mother and no sister?" The affection seems to go to the maternal side.
+I suggested that he might come after he had married a wife, but I fear
+very much that unless some European would settle, none of these
+Nassick boys will come to this country. It would be decidedly better
+if they were taught agriculture in the simplest form, as the Indian.
+Mataka would have liked to put his oxen to use, but Abraham could not
+help him with that. He is a smith, or rather a nothing, for unless he
+could smelt iron he would be entirely without materials to work with.
+
+_14th-28th July, 1866._--One day, calling at Mataka's, I found as
+usual a large crowd of idlers, who always respond with a laugh to
+everything he utters as wit. He asked, if he went to Bombay what ought
+he to take to secure some gold? I replied, "Ivory," he rejoined,
+"Would slaves not be a good speculation?" I replied that, "if he took
+slaves there for sale, they would put him in prison." The idea of the
+great Mataka in "chokee" made him wince, and the laugh turned for once
+against him. He said that as all the people from the coast crowd to
+him, they ought to give him something handsome for being here to
+supply their wants. I replied, if he would fill the fine well-watered
+country we had passed over with people instead of sending them off to
+Kilwa, he would confer a benefit on visitors, but we had been starved
+on the way to him; and I then told him what the English would do in
+road-making in a fine country like this. This led us to talk of
+railways, ships, ploughing with oxen--the last idea struck him most. I
+told him that I should have liked some of the Nassick boys to remain
+and teach this and other things, but they might be afraid to venture
+lest they should be sold again. The men who listened never heard such
+decided protests against selling each other into slavery before!
+
+The idea of guilt probably floated but vaguely in their minds, but
+the loss of life we have witnessed (in the guilt of which the sellers
+as well as the buyers participate) comes home very forcibly to their
+minds.
+
+Mataka has been an active hand in slave wars himself, though now he
+wishes to settle down in quiet. The Waiyau generally are still the
+most active agents the slave-traders have. The caravan leaders from
+Kilwa arrive at a Waiyau village, show the goods they have brought,
+are treated liberally by the elders, and told to wait and enjoy
+themselves, slaves enough to purchase all will be procured: then a
+foray is made against the Manganja, who have few or no guns. The
+Waiyau who come against them are abundantly supplied with both by
+their coast guests. Several of the low coast Arabs, who differ in
+nothing from the Waiyau, usually accompany the foray, and do business
+on their own account: this is the usual way in which a safari is
+furnished with slaves.
+
+Makanjela, a Waiyau chief about a third of the way from Mtende's to
+Mataka, has lost the friendship of all his neighbours by kidnapping
+and selling their people; if any of Mataka's people are found in the
+district between Makanjela and Moembe, they are considered fair game
+and sold. Makanjela's people cannot piss Mataka to go to the Manganja,
+so they do what they can by kidnapping and plundering all who fall
+into their hands.
+
+When I employed two of Mataka's people to go back on the 14th with
+food to the havildar and sepoys, they went a little way and relieved
+some, but would not venture as far as the Luatize, for fear of losing
+their liberty by Makanjela's people. I could not get the people of the
+country to go back; nor could I ask the Nassick boys, who had been
+threatened by the sepoys with assassination,--and it was the same with
+the Johanna men, because, though Mahometans, the sepoys had called
+them Caffirs, &c., and they all declared, "We are ready to do
+anything for you, but we will do nothing for these Hindis." I sent
+back a sepoy, giving him provisions; he sat down in the first village,
+ate all the food, and returned.
+
+An immense tract of country lies uninhabited. To the north-east of
+Moembe we have at least fifty miles of as fine land as can be seen
+anywhere, still bearing all the marks of having once supported a
+prodigious iron-smelting and grain-growing population. The clay pipes
+which are put on the nozzles of their bellows and inserted into the
+furnace are met with everywhere--often vitrified. Then the ridges on
+which they planted maize, beans, cassava, and sorghum, and which they
+find necessary to drain off the too abundant moisture of the rains,
+still remain unlevelled to attest the industry of the former
+inhabitants; the soil being clayey, resists for a long time the
+influence of the weather. These ridges are very regular, for in
+crossing the old fields, as the path often compels us to do, one foot
+treads regularly on the ridge, and the other in the hollow, for a
+considerable distance. Pieces of broken pots, with their rims
+ornamented with very good imitations of basket-work, attest that the
+lady potters of old followed the example given them by their still
+more ancient mothers,--their designs are rude, but better than we can
+make them without referring to the original.
+
+[Illustration: Imitation of basket-work in Pottery.]
+
+No want of water has here acted to drive the people away, as has been
+the case further south. It is a perpetual succession of ridge and
+valley, with a running stream or oozing bog, where ridge is separated
+from ridge: the ridges become steeper and narrower as we approach
+Mataka's.
+
+I counted fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards wide in one
+day's march of about six hours; being in a hilly or rather mountainous
+region, they flow rapidly and have plenty of water-power. In July any
+mere torrent ceases to flow, but these were brawling burns with water
+too cold (61 deg.) for us to bathe in whose pores were all open by the
+relaxing regions nearer the coast. The sound, so un-African, of
+gushing water dashing over rocks was quite familiar to our ears.
+
+This district, which rises up west of Mataka's to 3400 feet above the
+sea, catches a great deal of the moisture brought up by the easterly
+winds. Many of the trees are covered with lichens. While here we had
+cold southerly breezes, and a sky so overcast every day after 10 A.M.,
+that we could take no astronomical observations: even the latitude was
+too poor to be much depended on. 12 deg. 53' S. may have been a few miles
+from this.
+
+The cattle, rather a small breed, black and white in patches, and
+brown, with humps, give milk which is duly prized by these Waiyau. The
+sheep are the large-tailed variety, and generally of a black colour.
+Fowls and pigeons are the only other domestic animals we see, if we
+except the wretched village dogs which our-poodle had immense delight
+in chasing.
+
+The Waiyau are far from a handsome race, but they are not the
+prognathous beings one sees on the West Coast either. Their heads are
+of a round shape; compact foreheads, but not particularly receding;
+the alae nasi are flattened out; lips full, and with the women a small
+lip-ring just turns them up to give additional thickness. Their style
+of beauty is exactly that which was in fashion when the stone deities
+were made in the caves of Elephanta and Kenora near Bombay. A
+favourite mode of dressing the hair into little knobs, which was in
+fashion there, is more common in some tribes than in this. The mouths
+of the women would not be so hideous with a small lip-ring if they did
+not file their teeth to points, but they seem strong and able for the
+work which falls to their lot. The men are large, strong-boned
+fellows, and capable of enduring great fatigue, they undergo a rite
+which once distinguished the Jews about the age of puberty, and take a
+new name on the occasion; this was not introduced by the Arabs, whose
+advent is a recent event, and they speak of the time before they were
+inundated with European manufactures in exchange for slaves, as quite
+within their memory.
+
+Young Mataka gave me a dish of peas, and usually brought something
+every time he made a visit, he seems a nice boy, and his father, in
+speaking of learning to read, said he and his companions could learn,
+but he himself was too old. The soil seems very fertile, for the sweet
+potatoes become very large, and we bought two loads of them for three
+cubits and two needles; they quite exceeded 1 cwt. The maize becomes
+very large too; one cob had 1600 seeds. The abundance of water, the
+richness of soil, the available labour for building square houses, the
+coolness of the climate, make this nearly as desirable a residence as
+Magomero; but, alas! instead of three weeks' easy sail up the Zambesi
+and Shire, we have spent four weary months in getting here: I shall
+never cease bitterly to lament the abandonment of the Magomero
+mission.
+
+Moaning seems a favourite way of spending the time with some sick
+folk. For the sake of the warmth, I allowed a Nassick boy to sleep in
+my house; he and I had the same complaint, dysentery, and I was
+certainly worse than he, but did not moan, while he played at it as
+often as he was awake. I told him that people moaned only when too ill
+to be sensible of what they were doing; the groaning ceased, though
+he became worse.
+
+Three sepoys played at groaning very vigorously outside my door; they
+had nothing the matter with them, except perhaps fatigue, which we all
+felt alike; as these fellows prevented my sleeping, I told them quite
+civilly that, if so ill that they required to groan, they had better
+move off a little way, as I could not sleep; they preferred the
+verandah, and at once forbore.
+
+The abundance of grain and other food is accompanied by great numbers
+of rats or large mice, which play all manner of pranks by night; white
+ants have always to be guarded against likewise. Anyone who would find
+an antidote to drive them away would confer a blessing; the natural
+check is the driver ant, which when it visits a house is a great pest
+for a time, but it clears the others out.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[12] There is a double purpose in these murders; the terror inspired
+in the minds of the survivors spurs them on to endure the hardships of
+the march: the Portuese drivers are quite alive to the merits of this
+stimulus.--ED.
+
+[13] A tribal distinction turns on the customs prevailing with respect
+to animal food, _e.g._ one tribe will eat the elephant, the next looks
+on such flesh as unclean, and so with other meat. The neighbouring
+Manganja gladly eat the leopard and hyaena.--ED.
+
+[14] A coloured cloth manufactured expressly for barter in East
+Africa.
+
+[15] This is pronounced "Y-yow."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The
+    Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the
+    Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja
+    or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage
+    across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake
+    shore. Blue ink. Chitane changes colour. The Nsaka fish.
+    Makalaose drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities.
+    Lake rivers. Mukate's. Lake Pamalombe. Mponda's. A slave gang.
+    Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains.
+
+_28th July, 1866._--We proposed to start to-day, but Mataka said that
+he was not ready yet: the flour had to be ground, and he had given us
+no meat. He had sent plenty of cooked food almost every day. He asked
+if we would slaughter the ox he would give here, or take it on; we
+preferred to kill it at once. He came on the 28th with a good lot of
+flour for us, and men to guide us to Nyassa, telling us that this was
+Moembe, and his district extended all the way to the Lake: he would
+not send us to Losewa, as that place had lately been plundered and
+burned.
+
+In general the chiefs have shown an anxiety to promote our safety. The
+country is a mass of mountains. On leaving Mataka's we ascended
+considerably, and about the end of the first day's march, near
+Magola's village, the barometer showed our greatest altitude, about
+3400 feet above the sea. There were villages of these mountaineers
+everywhere, for the most part of 100 houses or more each. The springs
+were made the most use of that they knew; the damp spots drained, and
+the water given a free channel for use in irrigation further down:
+most of these springs showed the presence of iron by the oxide oozing
+out. A great many patches of peas are seen in full bearing and flower.
+The trees are small, except in the hollows: there is plenty of grass
+and flowers near streams and on the heights. The mountain-tops may
+rise 2000 or 3000 feet above their flanks, along which we wind, going
+perpetually up and down the steep ridges of which the country is but a
+succession.
+
+Looking at the geology of the district, the plateaux on each side of
+the Rovuma are masses of grey sandstone, capped with masses of
+ferruginous conglomerate; apparently an aqueous deposit. When we
+ascend the Rovuma about sixty miles, a great many pieces and blocks of
+silicified wood appear on the surface of the soil at the bottom of the
+slope up the plateaux. This in Africa is a sure indication of the
+presence of coal beneath, but it was not observed cropping out; the
+plateaux are cut up in various directions by wadys well supplied with
+grass and trees on deep and somewhat sandy soil: but at the confluence
+of the Loendi highlands they appear in the far distance. In the sands
+of the Loendi pieces of coal are quite common.[16]
+
+Before reaching the confluence of the Rovuma and Loendi, or say about
+ninety miles from the sea, the plateau is succeeded by a more level
+country, having detached granitic masses shooting up some 500 or 700
+feet. The sandstone of the plateau has at first been hardened, then
+quite metamorphosed into a chocolate-coloured schist. As at Chilole
+hill, we have igneous rocks, apparently trap, capped with masses of
+beautiful white dolomite. We still ascend in altitude as we go
+westwards, and come upon long tracts of gneiss with hornblende. The
+gneiss is often striated, all the striae looking one way--sometimes
+north and south, and at other times east and west. These rocks look as
+if a stratified rock had been nearly melted, and the strata fused
+together by the heat. From these striated rocks have shot up great
+rounded masses of granite or syenite, whose smooth sides and crowns
+contain scarcely any trees, and are probably from 3000 to 4000 feet
+above the sea. The elevated plains among these mountain masses show
+great patches of ferruginous conglomerate, which, when broken, look
+like yellow haematite with madrepore holes in it: this has made the
+soil of a red colour.
+
+On the watershed we have still the rounded granitic hills jutting
+above the plains (if such they may be called) which are all ups and
+downs, and furrowed with innumerable running rills, the sources of the
+Rovuma and Loendi. The highest rock observed with mica schist was at
+an altitude of 3440 feet. The same uneven country prevails as we
+proceed from the watershed about forty miles down to the Lake, and a
+great deal of quartz in small fragments renders travelling-very
+difficult. Near the Lake, and along its eastern shore, we have mica
+schist and gneiss foliated, with a great deal of hornblende; but the
+most remarkable feature of it is that the rocks are all tilted on
+edge, or slightly inclined to the Lake. The active agent in effecting
+this is not visible. It looks as if a sudden rent had been made, so as
+to form the Lake, and tilt all these rocks nearly over. On the east
+side of the lower part of the Lake we have two ranges of mountains,
+evidently granitic: the nearer one covered with small trees and lower
+than the other; the other jagged and bare, or of the granitic forms.
+But in all this country no fossil-yielding rock was visible except the
+grey sandstone referred to at the beginning of this note. The rocks
+are chiefly the old crystalline forms.
+
+One fine straight tall tree in the hollows seemed a species of fig:
+its fruit was just forming, but it was too high for me to ascertain
+its species. The natives don't eat the fruit, but they eat the large
+grubs which come out of it. The leaves were fifteen inches long by
+five broad: they call it Unguengo.
+
+_29th July, 1866._--At Magola's village. Although we are now rid of
+the sepoys, we cannot yet congratulate ourselves on being rid of the
+lazy habits of lying down in the path which they introduced. A strong
+scud comes up from the south bringing much moisture with it: it blows
+so hard above, this may be a storm on the coast. Temperature in
+mornings 55 deg.
+
+_30th July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Pezimba's village,
+which consists of 200 houses and huts. It is placed very nicely on a
+knoll between two burns, which, as usual, are made use of for
+irrigating peas in winter time. The headman said that if we left now
+we had a good piece of jungle before us, and would sleep twice in it
+before reaching Mbanga. We therefore remained. An Arab party, hearing
+of our approach, took a circuitous route among the mountains to avoid
+coming in contact with us. In travelling to Pezimba's we had commenced
+our western descent to the Lake, for we were now lower than Magola's
+by 300 feet. We crossed many rivulets and the Lochesi, a good-sized
+stream. The watershed parts some streams for Loendi and some for
+Rovuma. There is now a decided scantiness of trees. Many of the
+hill-tops are covered with grass or another plant; there is pleasure
+now in seeing them bare. Ferns, rhododendrons, and a foliaged tree,
+which looks in the distance like silver-fir, are met with.
+
+The Mandare root is here called Nyumbo, when cooked it has a slight
+degree of bitterness with it which cultivation may remove. Mica schist
+crowned some of the heights on the watershed, then gneiss, and now, as
+we descend further, we have igneous rocks of more recent eruption,
+porphyry and gneiss, with hornblende. A good deal of ferruginous
+conglomerate, with holes in it, covers many spots; when broken, it
+looks like yellow haematite, with black linings to the holes: this is
+probably the ore used in former times by the smiths, of whose
+existence we now find still more evidence than further east.
+
+_31st July, 1866._--I had presented Pezimba with a cloth, so he cooked
+for us handsomely last night, and this morning desired us to wait a
+little as he had not yet sufficient meal made to present: we waited
+and got a generous present.
+
+It was decidedly milder here than at Mataka's, and we had a clear sky.
+In our morning's march we passed the last of the population, and went
+on through a fine well-watered fruitful country, to sleep near a
+mountain called Mtewire, by a stream called Msapo. A very large Arab
+slave-party was close by our encampment, and I wished to speak to
+them; but as soon as they knew of our being near they set off in a
+pathless course across country, and were six days in the
+wilderness.[17]
+
+_1st August, 1866._--We saw the encampment of another Arab party. It
+consisted of ten pens, each of which, from the number of fires it
+contained, may have held from eighty to a hundred slaves. The people
+of the country magnified the numbers, saying that they would reach
+from this to Mataka's; but from all I can learn, I think that from 300
+to 800 slaves is the commoner gang. This second party went across
+country very early this morning. We saw the fire-sticks which the
+slaves had borne with them. The fear they feel is altogether the
+effect of the English name, for we have done nothing to cause their
+alarm.
+
+_2nd August, 1866._--There was something very cheering to me in the
+sight at our encampment of yellow grass and trees dotted over it, as
+in the Bechuana country. The birds were singing merrily too, inspired
+by the cold, which was 47 deg., and by the vicinity of some population.
+Gum-copal trees and bushes grow here as well as all over the country;
+but gum is never dug for, probably because the trees were never large
+enough to yield the fossil gum. Marks of smiths are very abundant and
+some furnaces are still standing. Much cultivation must formerly have
+been where now all is jungle.
+
+We arrived at Mbanga, a village embowered in trees, chiefly of the
+euphorbia, so common in the Manganja country further south. Kandulo,
+the headman, had gone to drink beer at another village, but sent
+orders to give a hut and to cook for us. We remained next day. Took
+lunars.
+
+We had now passed through, at the narrowest part, the hundred miles of
+depopulated country, of which about seventy are on the N.E. of Mataka.
+The native accounts differ as to the cause. Some say slave wars, and
+assert that the Makoa from the vicinity of Mozambique played an
+important part in them; others say famine; others that the people have
+moved to and beyond Nyassa.[18] Certain it is, from the potsherds
+strewed over the country, and the still remaining ridges on which
+beans, sorghum, maize, and cassava, were planted, that the departed
+population was prodigious. The Waiyau, who are now in the country,
+came from the other side of the Rovuma, and they probably supplanted
+the Manganja, an operation which we see going on at the present day.
+
+_4th August, 1866._--An hour and a half brought us to Miule, a village
+on the same level with Mbanga; and the chief pressing us to stay, on
+the plea of our sleeping two nights in the jungle, instead of one if
+we left early next morning, we consented. I asked him what had become
+of the very large iron-smelting population of this region; he said
+many had died of famine, others had fled to the west of Nyassa: the
+famine is the usual effect of slave wars, and much death is thereby
+caused--probably much more than by the journey to the coast. He had
+never heard any tradition of stone hatchets having been used, nor of
+stone spear-heads or arrowheads of that material, nor had he heard of
+any being turned up by the women in hoeing. The Makonde, as we saw,
+use wooden spears where iron is scarce. I saw wooden hoes used for
+tilling the soil in the Bechuana and Bataka countries, but never stone
+ones. In 1841 I saw a Bushwoman in the Cape Colony with a round stone
+and a hole through it; on being asked she showed me how it was used by
+inserting the top of a digging-stick into it, and digging a root. The
+stone was to give the stick weight.
+
+[Illustration.]
+
+The stones still used as anvils and sledge-hammers by many of the
+African smiths, when considered from their point of view, show sounder
+sense than if they were burdened with the great weights we use. They
+are unacquainted with the process of case-hardening, which, applied to
+certain parts of our anvils, gives them their usefulness, and an anvil
+of their soft iron would not do so well as a hard stone. It is true a
+small light one might be made, but let any one see how the hammers of
+their iron bevel over and round in the faces with a little work, and
+he will perceive that only a wild freak would induce any sensible
+native smith to make a mass equal to a sledge-hammer, and burden
+himself with a weight for what can be better performed by a stone. If
+people are settled, as on the coast, then they gladly use any mass of
+cast iron they may find, but never where, as in the interior, they
+have no certainty of remaining any length of time in one spot.
+
+_5th August, 1866._--We left Miule, and commenced our march towards
+Lake Nyassa, and slept at the last of the streams that flow to the
+Loendi. In Mataka's vicinity, N.E., there is a perfect brush of
+streams flowing to that river: one forms a lake in its course, and the
+sources of the Rovuma lie in the same region. After leaving Mataka's
+we crossed a good-sized one flowing to Loendi, and, the day after
+leaving Pezimba's, another going to the Chiringa or Lochiringa, which
+is a tributary of the Rovuma.
+
+_6th August, 1866._--We passed two cairns this morning at the
+beginning of the very sensible descent to the Lake. They are very
+common in all this Southern Africa in the passes of the mountains, and
+are meant to mark divisions of countries, perhaps burial-places, but
+the Waiyau who accompanied us thought that they were merely heaps of
+stone collected by some one making a garden. The cairns were placed
+just about the spot where the blue waters of Nyassa first came fairly
+into view.
+
+We now came upon a stream, the Misinje, flowing into the Lake, and we
+crossed it five times; it was about twenty yards wide, and thigh deep.
+We made but short stages when we got on the lower plateau, for the
+people had great abundance of food, and gave large presents of it if
+we rested. One man gave four fowls, three large baskets of maize,
+pumpkins, eland's fat--a fine male, as seen by his horns,--and pressed
+us to stay, that he might see our curiosities as well as others. He
+said that at one day's distance south of him all sorts of animals, as
+buffaloes, elands, elephants, hippopotami, and antelopes, could be
+shot.
+
+_8th August, 1866._--We came to the Lake at the confluence of the
+Misinje, and felt grateful to That Hand which had protected us thus
+far on our journey. It was as if I had come back to an old home I
+never expected again to see; and pleasant to bathe in the delicious
+waters again, hear the roar of the sea, and dash in the rollers. Temp.
+71 deg. at 8 A.M., while the air was 65 deg. I feel quite exhilarated.
+
+The headman here, Mokalaose, is a real Manganja, and he and all his
+people exhibit the greater darkness of colour consequent on being in a
+warm moist climate; he is very friendly, and presented millet,
+porridge, cassava, and hippopotamus meat boiled and asked if I liked
+milk, as he had some of Mataka's cattle here. His people bring sanjika
+the best Lake fish, for sale; they are dried on stages over slow
+fires, and lose their fine flavour by it, but they are much prized
+inland. I bought fifty for a fathom of calico; when fresh, they taste
+exactly like the best herrings, _i.e._ as we think, but voyagers' and
+travellers' appetites are often so whetted as to be incapable of
+giving a true verdict in matters of taste.
+
+[It is necessary to explain that Livingstone knew of an Arab
+settlement on the western shore of the Lake, and that he hoped to
+induce the chief man Jumbe to give him a passage to the other side.]
+
+_10th August, 1866._--I sent Seyed Majid's letter up to Jumbe, but the
+messenger met some coast Arabs at the Loangwa, which may be seven
+miles from this, and they came back with him, haggling a deal about
+the fare, and then went off, saying that they would bring the dhow
+here for us. Finding that they did not come, I sent Musa, who brought
+back word that they had taken the dhow away over to Jumbe at Kotakota,
+or, as they pronounce it, Ngotagota. Very few of the coast Arabs can
+read; in words they are very polite, but truthfulness seems very
+little regarded. I am resting myself and people--working up journal,
+lunars, and altitudes--but will either move south or go to the Arabs
+towards the north soon.
+
+Mokalaose's fears of the Waiyau will make him welcome Jumbe here, and
+then the Arab will some day have an opportunity of scattering his
+people as he has done those at Kotakota. He has made Losewa too hot
+for himself. When the people there were carried off by Mataka's
+people, Jumbe seized their stores of grain, and now has no post to
+which he can go there. The Loangwa Arabs give an awful account of
+Jumbe's murders and selling the people, but one cannot take it all in;
+at the mildest it must have been bad. This is all they ever do; they
+cannot form a state or independent kingdom: slavery and the
+slave-trade are insuperable obstacles to any permanence inland; slaves
+can escape so easily, all therefore that the Arabs do is to collect as
+much money as they can by hook and by crook, and then leave the
+country.
+
+We notice a bird called namtambwe, which sings very nicely with a
+strong voice after dark here at the Misinje confluence.
+
+_11th August, 1866._--Two headmen came down country from villages
+where we slept, bringing us food, and asking how we are treated; they
+advise our going south to Mukate's, where the Lake is narrow.
+
+_12th-14th August, 1866._--Map making; but my energies were sorely
+taxed by the lazy sepoys, and I was usually quite tired out at night.
+Some men have come down from Mataka's, and report the arrival of an
+Englishman with cattle for me, "he has two eyes behind as well as two
+in front:" this is enough of news for awhile!
+
+Mokalaose has his little afflictions, and he tells me of them. A wife
+ran away, I asked how many he had; he told me twenty in all: I then
+thought he had nineteen too many. He answered with the usual reason,
+"But who would cook for strangers if I had but one?"
+
+We saw clouds of "kungu" gnats on the Lake; they are not eaten here.
+An ungenerous traveller coming here with my statement in his hand,
+and finding the people denying all knowledge of how to catch and cook
+them, might say that I had been romancing in saying I had seen them
+made into cakes in the northern part of the Lake; when asking here
+about them, a stranger said, "They know how to use them in the north;
+we do not."
+
+Mokalaose thinks that the Arabs are afraid that I may take their dhows
+from them and go up to the north. He and the other headmen think that
+the best way will be to go to Mukate's in the south. All the Arabs
+flee from me, the English name being in their minds inseparably
+connected with recapturing slavers: they cannot conceive that I have
+any other object in view; they cannot read Seyed Majid's letter.
+
+_21st August, 1866._--Started for the Loangwa, on the east side of the
+Lake; hilly all the way, about seven miles. This river may be twenty
+yards wide near its confluence; the Misinje is double that: each has
+accumulated a promontory of deposit and enters the Lake near its apex.
+We got a house from a Waiyau man on a bank about forty feet above the
+level of Nyassa, but I could not sleep for the manoeuvres of a crowd
+of the minute ants which infested it. They chirrup distinctly; they
+would not allow the men to sleep either, though all were pretty tired
+by the rough road up.
+
+_22nd August, 1866._--We removed to the south side of the Loangwa,
+where there are none of these little pests.
+
+_23rd August, 1866._--Proposed to the Waiyau headman to send a canoe
+over to call Jumbe, as I did not believe in the assertions of the
+half-caste Arab here that he had sent for his. All the Waiyau had
+helped me, and why not he? He was pleased with this, but advised
+waiting till a man sent to Losewa should return.
+
+_24th August, 1866._--A leopard took a dog out of a house next to
+ours; he had bitten a man before, but not mortally. _29th August,
+1866._--News come that the two dhows have come over to Losewa
+(Losefa). The Mazitu had chased Jumbe up the hills: had they said, on
+to an island, I might have believed them.
+
+_30th August,1866._--The fear which the English have inspired in the
+Arab slave-traders is rather inconvenient. All flee from me as if I
+had the plague, and I cannot in consequence transmit letters to the
+coast, or get across the Lake. They seem to think that if I get into a
+dhow I will be sure to burn it. As the two dhows on the Lake are used
+for nothing else but the slave-trade, their owners have no hope of my
+allowing them to escape, so after we have listened to various lies as
+excuses, we resolve to go southwards, and cross at the point of
+departure of the Shire from the Lake. I took lunars several times on
+both sides of the moon, and have written a despatch for Lord
+Clarendon, besides a number of private letters.
+
+_3rd September, 1866._--Went down to confluence of the Misinje and
+came to many of the eatable insect "kungu,"--they are caught by a
+quick motion of the hand holding a basket. We got a cake of these same
+insects further down; they make a buzz like a swarm of bees, and are
+probably the perfect state of some Lake insect.
+
+I observed two beaches of the Lake: one about fifteen feet above the
+present high-water mark, and the other about forty above that; but
+between the two the process of disintegration, which results from the
+sudden cold and heat in these regions, has gone on so much that seldom
+is a well-rounded smoothed one seen; the lower beach is very well
+marked.
+
+The strike of large masses of foliated gneiss is parallel with the
+major axis of the Lake, and all are tilted on edge. Some are a little
+inclined to the Lake, as if dipping to it westwards, but others are as
+much inclined the opposite way, or twisted.
+
+I made very good blue ink from the juice of a berry, the fruit of a
+creeper, which is the colour of port wine when expressed. A little
+ferri carb. ammon., added to this is all that is required.
+
+The poodle dog Chitane is rapidly changing the colour of its hair. All
+the parts corresponding to the ribs and neck are rapidly becoming red;
+the majority of country dogs are of this colour.
+
+The Manganja, or Wa-nyassa, are an aboriginal race; they have great
+masses of hair, and but little, if any, of the prognathous in the
+profile. Their bodies and limbs are very well made, and the
+countenance of the men is often very pleasant. The women are very
+plain and lumpy, but exceedingly industrious in their gardens from
+early morning till about 11 A.M., then from 3 P.M. till dark, or
+pounding corn and grinding it: the men make twine or nets by day, and
+are at their fisheries in the evenings and nights. They build the
+huts, the women plaster them.
+
+A black fish, the Nsaka, makes a hole, with raised edges, which, with
+the depth from which they are taken, is from fifteen to eighteen
+inches, and from two to three feet broad. It is called by the natives
+their house. The pair live in it for some time, or until the female
+becomes large for spawning; this operation over, the house is left.
+
+I gave Mokalaose some pumpkin seed and peas. He took me into his
+house, and presented a quantity of beer. I drank a little, and seeing
+me desist from taking more, he asked if I wished a servant-girl to
+"_pata mimba_." Not knowing what was meant, I offered the girl the
+calabash of beer, and told her to drink, but this was not the
+intention. He asked if I did not wish more; and then took the vessel,
+and as he drank the girl performed the operation on himself. Placing
+herself in front, she put both hands round his waist below the short
+ribs, and pressing gradually drew them round to his belly in front.
+He took several prolonged draughts, and at each she repeated the
+operation, as if to make the liquor go equally over the stomach. Our
+topers don't seem to have discovered the need for this.
+
+_5th September, 1866._--Our march is along the shore to Ngombo
+promontory, which approaches so near to Senga or Tsenga opposite, as
+to narrow the Lake to some sixteen or eighteen miles. It is a low
+sandy point, the edge fringed on the north-west and part of the south
+with a belt of papyrus and reeds; the central parts wooded. Part of
+the south side has high sandy dunes, blown up by the south wind, which
+strikes it at right angles there. One was blowing as we marched along
+the southern side eastwards, and was very tiresome. We reached
+Panthunda's village by a brook called Lilole. Another we crossed
+before coming to it is named Libesa: these brooks form the favourite
+spawning grounds of the sanjika and mpasa, two of the best fishes of
+the Lake. The sanjika is very like our herring in shape and taste and
+size; the mpasa larger every way: both live on green herbage formed at
+the bottom of the Lake and rivers.
+
+_7th September, 1866._--Chirumba's village being on the south side of
+a long lagoon, we preferred sleeping on the mainland, though they
+offered their cranky canoes to ferry us over. This lagoon is called
+Pansangwa.
+
+_8th September, 1866._--In coming along the southern side of Ngombo
+promontory we look eastwards, but when we leave it we turn southwards,
+having a double range of lofty mountains on our left. These are
+granitic in form, the nearer range being generally the lowest, and
+covered with scraggy trees; the second, or more easterly, is some 6000
+feet above the sea, bare and rugged, with jagged peaks shooting high
+into the air. This is probably the newest range. The oldest people
+have felt no earthquake, but some say that they have heard of such
+things from their elders.
+
+We passed very many sites of old villages, which are easily known by
+the tree euphorbia planted round an umbelliferous one, and the sacred
+fig. One species here throws out strong buttresses in the manner of
+some mangroves instead of sending down twiners which take root, as is
+usually the ease with the tropical fig. These, with millstones--stones
+for holding the pots in cooking--and upraised clay benches, which have
+been turned into brick by fire in the destruction of the huts, show
+what were once the "pleasant haunts of men." No stone implements ever
+appear. If they existed they could not escape notice, since the eyes
+in walking are almost always directed to the ground to avoid stumbling
+on stones or stumps. In some parts of the world stone implements are
+so common they seem to have been often made and discarded as soon as
+formed, possibly by getting better tools; if, indeed, the manufacture
+is not as modern as that found by Mr. Waller. Passing some navvies in
+the City who were digging for the foundation of a house, he observed a
+very antique-looking vase, wet from the clay, standing on the bank. He
+gave ten shillings for it, and subsequently, by the aid of a scrubbing
+brush and some water, detected the hieroglyphics "Copeland late Spode"
+on the bottom of it!
+
+Here the destruction is quite recent, and has been brought about by
+some who entertained us very hospitably on the Misinje, before we came
+to the confluence. The woman chief, Ulenjelenje, or Njelenje, bore a
+part in it for the supply of Arab caravans. It was the work of the
+Masininga, a Waiyau tribe, of which her people form a part. They
+almost depopulated the broad fertile tract, of some three or four
+miles, between the mountain range and the Lake, along which our course
+lay. It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones scattered about
+everywhere; one would fain not notice them, but they are so striking
+as one trudges along the sultry path, that it cannot be avoided.
+
+_9th September, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Kandango's village. The men
+killed a hippopotamus when it was sleeping on the shore; a full-grown
+female, 10 feet 9 inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail,
+and 4 feet 4 inches high at the withers. The bottom here and all along
+southwards now is muddy. Many of the _Siluris Glanis_ are caught equal
+in length to an eleven or a twelve-pound salmon, but a great portion
+is head; slowly roasted on a stick stuck in the ground before the fire
+they seemed to me much more savoury than I ever tasted them before.
+With the mud we have many shells: north of Ngombo scarcely one can be
+seen, and there it is sandy or rocky.
+
+_10th September, 1866._--In marching southwards we came close to the
+range (the Lake lies immediately on the other side of it), but we
+could not note the bays which it forms; we crossed two mountain
+torrents from sixty to eighty yards broad, and now only ankle deep. In
+flood these bring down enormous trees, which are much battered and
+bruised among the rocks in their course; they spread over the plain,
+too, and would render travelling here in the rains impracticable.
+After spending the night at a very civil headman's chefu, we crossed
+the Lotende, another of these torrents: each very lofty mass in the
+range seemed to give rise to one. Nothing of interest occurred as we
+trudged along. A very poor headman, Pamawawa, presented a roll of salt
+instead of food: this was grateful to us, as we have been without that
+luxury some time.
+
+_12th September, 1866._--We crossed the rivulet Nguena, and then went
+on to another with a large village by it, it is called Pantoza
+Pangone. The headman had been suffering from sore eyes for four
+months, and pressed me to stop and give him medicine, which I did.
+
+_13th September, 1866._--We crossed a strong brook called Nkore. My
+object in mentioning the brooks which were flowing at this time, and
+near the end of the dry season, is to give an idea of the sources of
+supply of evaporation. The men enumerate the following, north of the
+Misinje. Those which are greater are marked thus +, and the lesser
+ones -.
+
+     1. Misinje + has canoes.
+     2. Loangwa -
+     3. Lesefa -
+     4. Lelula -
+     5. Nchamanje -
+     6. Musumba +
+     7. Fubwe +
+     8. Chia -
+     9. Kisanga +
+    10. Bweka -
+    11. Chifumero + has canoes.
+    12. Loangwa -
+    13. Mkoho -
+    14. Mangwelo - at N. end of Lake.
+
+Including the above there are twenty or twenty-four perennial brooks
+and torrents which give a good supply of water in the dry season; in
+the wet season they are supplemented by a number of burns, which,
+though flowing now, have their mouths blocked up with bars of sand,
+and yield nothing except by percolation; the Lake rises at least four
+feet perpendicularly in the wet season, and has enough during the year
+from these perennial brooks to supply the Shire's continual flow.
+
+[It will be remembered that the beautiful river Shire carries off the
+waters of Lake Nyassa and joins the Zambesi near Mount Morambala,
+about ninety miles from the sea. It is by this water-way that
+Livingstone always hoped to find an easy access to Central Africa.
+The only obstacles that exist are, first, the foolish policy of the
+Portuguese with regard to Customs' duties at the mouth of the Zambesi;
+and secondly, a succession of cataracts on the Shire, which impede
+navigation for seventy miles. The first hindrance may give way under
+more liberal views than those which prevail at present at the Court of
+Lisbon, and then the remaining difficulty--accepted as a fact--will be
+solved by the establishment of a boat service both above and below the
+cataracts. Had Livingstone survived he would have been cheered by
+hearing that already several schemes are afoot to plant Missions in
+the vicinity of Lake Nyassa, and we may with confidence look to the
+revival of the very enterprise which he presently so bitterly deplores
+as a thing of the past, for Bishop Steere has fully determined to
+re-occupy the district in which fell his predecessor, Bishop
+Mackenzie, and others attached to the Universities Mission.]
+
+In the course of this day's march we were pushed close to the Lake by
+Mount Gome, and, being now within three miles of the end of the Lake,
+we could see the whole plainly. There we first saw the Shire emerge,
+and there also we first gazed on the broad waters of Nyassa.
+
+Many hopes have been disappointed here. Far down on the right bank of
+the Zambesi lies the dust of her whose death changed all my future
+prospects; and now, instead of a check being given to the slave-trade
+by lawful commerce on the Lake, slave-dhows prosper!
+
+An Arab slave-party fled on hearing of us yesterday. It is impossible
+not to regret the loss of good Bishop Mackenzie, who sleeps far down
+the Shire, and with him all hope of the Gospel being introduced into
+Central Africa. The silly abandonment of all the advantages of the
+Shire route by the Bishop's successor I shall ever bitterly deplore,
+but all will come right some day, though I may not live to
+participate in the joy, or even see the commencement of better times.
+
+In the evening we reached the village of Cherekalongwa on the brook
+Pamchololo, and were very jovially received by the headman with beer.
+He says that Mukate,[19] Kabinga, and Mponda alone supply the
+slave-traders now by raids on the Manganja, but they go S.W. to the
+Maravi, who, impoverished by a Mazitu raid, sell each other as well.
+
+_14th, September, 1866._--At Cherekalongwa's (who has a skin disease,
+believed by him to have been derived from eating fresh-water turtles),
+we were requested to remain one day in order that he might see us. He
+had heard much about us; had been down the Shire, and as far as
+Mosambique, but never had an Englishman in his town before. As the
+heat is great we were glad of the rest and beer, with which he very
+freely supplied us.
+
+I saw the skin of a Phenembe, a species of lizard which devours
+chickens; here it is named Salka. It had been flayed by a cut up the
+back--body, 12 inches; across belly, 10 inches.
+
+After nearly giving up the search for Dr. Roscher's point of reaching
+the Lake--because no one, either Arab or native, had the least idea of
+either Nusseewa or Makawa, the name given to the place--I discovered
+it in Lessefa, the accentuated _e_ being sounded as our _e_ in _set_.
+This word would puzzle a German philologist, as being the origin of
+Nussewa, but the Waiyau pronounce it Losewa, the Arabs Lussewa, and
+Roscher's servant transformed the _L_ and _e_ into _N_ and _ee_, hence
+Nusseewa. In confirmation of this rivulet Lesefa, which is opposite
+Kotakota, or, as the Arabs pronounce it, Nkotakota, the chief is
+Mangkaka (Makawa), or as there is a confusion of names as to chief it
+may be Mataka, whose town and district is called Moembe, the town
+Pamoembe = Mamemba.
+
+I rest content with Kingomango so far verifying the place at which he
+arrived two months after we had discovered Lake Nyassa. He deserved
+all the credit due to finding the way thither, but he travelled as an
+Arab, and no one suspected him to be anything else. Our visits have
+been known far and wide, and great curiosity excited; but Dr. Roscher
+merits the praise only of preserving his _incognito_ at a distance
+from Kilwa: his is almost the only case known of successfully assuming
+the Arab guise--Burckhardt is the exception. When Mr. Palgrave came to
+Muscat, or a town in Oman where our political agent Col. Desborough
+was stationed, he was introduced to that functionary by an interpreter
+as Hajee Ali, &c. Col. Desborough replied, "You are no Hajee Ali, nor
+anything else but Gifford Palgrave, with whom I was schoolfellow at
+the Charter House." Col. Desborough said he knew him at once, from a
+peculiar way of holding his head, and Palgrave begged him not to
+disclose his real character to his interpreter, on whom, and some
+others, he had been imposing. I was told this by Mr. Dawes, a
+Lieutenant in the Indian navy, who accompanied Colonel Pelly in his
+visit to the Nejed, Riad, &c, and took observations for him.
+
+_Tangare_ is the name of a rather handsome bean, which possesses
+intoxicating qualities. To extract these it is boiled, then peeled,
+and new water supplied: after a second and third boiling it is
+pounded, and the meal taken to the river and the water allowed to
+percolate through it several times. Twice cooking still leaves the
+intoxicating quality; but if eaten then it does not cause death: it is
+curious that the natives do not use it expressly to produce
+intoxication. When planted near a tree it grows all over it, and
+yields abundantly: the skin of the pod is velvety, like our broad
+beans.
+
+Another bean, with a pretty white mark on it, grows freely, and is
+easily cooked, and good: it is here called _Gwingwiza_.
+
+_15th September, 1866._--We were now a short distance south of the
+Lake, and might have gone west to Mosauka's (called by some Pasauka's)
+to cross the Shire there, but I thought that my visit to Mukate's, a
+Waiyau chief still further south, might do good. He, Mponda, and
+Kabinga, are the only three chiefs who still carry on raids against
+the Manganja at the instigation of the coast Arabs, and they are now
+sending periodical marauding parties to the Maravi (here named Malola)
+to supply the Kilwa slave-traders. We marched three hours southwards,
+then up the hills of the range which flanks all the lower part of the
+Lake. The altitude of the town is about 800 feet above the Lake. The
+population near the chief is large, and all the heights as far as the
+eye can reach are crowned with villages. The second range lies a few
+miles off, and is covered with trees as well as the first, the nearest
+high mass is Mangoche. The people live amidst plenty. All the chiefs
+visited by the Arabs have good substantial square houses built for
+their accommodation. Mukate never saw a European before, and
+everything about us is an immense curiosity to him and to his people.
+We had long visits from him. He tries to extract a laugh out of every
+remark. He is darker than the generality of Waiyau, with a full beard
+trained on the chin, as all the people hereabouts have--Arab fashion.
+The courts of his women cover a large space, our house being on one
+side of them. I tried to go out that way, but wandered, so the ladies
+sent a servant to conduct me out in the direction I wished to go, and
+we found egress by passing through some huts with two doors in them.
+
+_16th September, 1866._--At Mukate's. The Prayer Book does not give
+ignorant persons any idea of an unseen Being addressed, it looks more
+like reading or speaking to the book: kneeling and praying with eyes
+shut is better than, our usual way of holding Divine service.
+
+We had a long discussion about the slave-trade. The Arabs have told
+the chief that our object in capturing slavers is to get them into our
+own possession, and make them of our own religion. The evils which we
+have seen--the skulls, the ruined villages, the numbers who perish on
+the way to the coast and on the sea, the wholesale murders committed
+by the Waiyau to build up Arab villages elsewhere--these things Mukate
+often tried to turn off with a laugh, but our remarks are safely
+lodged in many hearts. Next day, as we went along, our guide
+spontaneously delivered their substance to the different villages
+along our route. Before we reached him, a headman, in convoying me a
+mile or two, whispered to me, "Speak to Mukate to give his forays up."
+
+It is but little we can do, but we lodge a protest in the heart
+against a vile system, and time may ripen it. Their great argument is,
+"What could we do without Arab cloth?" My answer is, "Do what you did
+before the Arabs came into the country." At the present rate of
+destruction of population, the whole country will soon be a desert.
+
+An earthquake happened here last year, that is about the end of it or
+beginning of this (the crater on the Grand. Comoro Island smoked for
+three months about that time); it shook all the houses and everything,
+but they observed no other effects.[20] No hot springs are known here.
+
+_17th September, 1866._--We marched down from Mukate's and to about
+the middle of the Lakelet Pamalombe. Mukate had no people with canoes
+near the usual crossing place, and he sent a messenger to see that we
+were fairly served. Here we got the Manganja headmen to confess that
+an earthquake had happened; all the others we have inquired of have
+denied it; why, I cannot conceive. The old men said that they had felt
+earthquakes twice, once near sunset and the next time at night--they
+shook everything, and were accompanied with noise, and all the fowls
+cackled; there was no effect on the Lake observed. They profess
+ignorance of any tradition of the water having stood higher. Their
+traditions say that they came originally from the west, or west
+north-west, which they call "Maravi;" and that their forefathers
+taught them to make nets and kill fish. They have no trace of any
+teaching by a higher instructor; no carvings or writings on the rocks;
+and they never heard of a book until we came among them. Their
+forefathers never told them that after or at death they went to God,
+but they had heard it said of such a one who died, "God took him."
+
+_18th September, 1866._--We embarked the whole party in eight canoes,
+and went up the Lake to the point of junction between it and the
+prolongation of Nyassa above it, called Massangano ("meetings"), which
+took us two hours. A fishing party there fled on seeing us, though we
+shouted that we were a travelling party (or "Olendo ").
+
+Mukate's people here left us, and I walked up to the village of the
+fugitives with one attendant only. Their suspicions were so thoroughly
+aroused that they would do nothing. The headman (Pima) was said to be
+absent; they could not lend us a hut, but desired us to go on to
+Mponda's. We put up a shed for ourselves, and next morning, though we
+pressed them for a guide, no one would come.
+
+From Pima's village we had a fine view of Pamalombe and the range of
+hills on its western edge, the range which flanks the lower part of
+Nyassa,--on part of which Mukate lives,--the gap of low land south of
+it behind which Shirwa Lake lies, and Chikala and Zomba nearly due
+south from us. People say hippopotami come from Lake Shirwa into Lake
+Nyassa. There is a great deal of vegetation in Pamalombe, gigantic
+rushes, duckweed, and great quantities of aquatic plants on the
+bottom; one slimy translucent plant is washed ashore in abundance.
+Fish become very fat on these plants; one called "kadiakola" I eat
+much of; it has a good mass of flesh on it.
+
+It is probable that the people of Lake Tanganyika and Nyassa, and
+those on the Rivers Shire and Zambesi, are all of one stock, for the
+dialects vary very little.[21] I took observations on this point. An
+Arab slave-party, hearing of us, decamped.
+
+_19th September, 1866._--When we had proceeded a mile this morning we
+came to 300 or 400 people making salt on a plain impregnated with it.
+They lixiviate the soil and boil the water, which has filtered through
+a bunch of grass in a hole in the bottom of a pot, till all is
+evaporated and a mass of salt left. We held along the plain till we
+came to Mponda's, a large village, with a stream running past. The
+plain at the village is very fertile, and has many large trees on it.
+The cattle of Mponda are like fatted Madagascar beasts, and the hump
+seems as if it would weigh 100 lbs.[22] The size of body is so
+enormous that their legs, as remarked by our men, seemed very small.
+Mponda is a blustering sort of person, but immensely interested in
+everything European. He says that he would like to go with me. "Would
+not care though he were away ten years." I say that he may die in the
+journey.--"He will die here as well as there, but he will see all the
+wonderful doings of our country." He knew me, having come to the boat,
+to take a look _incognito_ when we were here formerly.
+
+We found an Arab slave-party here, and went to look at the slaves;
+seeing this; Mponda was alarmed lest we should proceed to violence in
+his town, but I said to him that we went to look only. Eighty-five
+slaves were in a pen formed of dura stalks _(Holcus sorghum_). The
+majority were boys of about eight or ten years of age; others were
+grown men and women. Nearly all were in the taming-stick; a few of the
+younger ones were in thongs, the thong passing round the neck of each.
+Several pots were on the fires cooking dura and beans. A crowd went
+with us, expecting a scene, but I sat down, and asked a few questions
+about the journey, in front. The slave-party consisted of five or six
+half-caste coast Arabs, who said that they came from Zanzibar; but the
+crowd made such a noise that we could not hear ourselves speak. I
+asked if they had any objections to my looking at the slaves, the
+owners pointed out the different slaves, and said that after feeding
+them, and accounting for the losses in the way to the coast, they made
+little by the trip. I suspect that the gain is made by those who ship
+them to the ports of Arabia, for at Zanzibar most of the younger
+slaves we saw went at about seven dollars a head. I said to them it
+was a bad business altogether. They presented fowls to me in the
+evening.
+
+_20th September, 1866._--The chief begged so hard that I would stay
+another day and give medicine to a sick child, that I consented. He
+promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest of his sincerity, sent an
+immense pot of beer in the evening. The child had been benefited by
+the medicine given yesterday. He offered more food than we chose to
+take.
+
+The agricultural class does not seem to be a servile one: all
+cultivate, and the work is esteemed. The chief was out at his garden
+when we arrived, and no disgrace is attached to the field labourer.
+The slaves very likely do the chief part of the work, but all engage
+in it, and are proud of their skill. Here a great deal of grain is
+raised, though nearly all the people are Waiyau or Machinga. This is
+remarkable, as they have till lately been marauding and moving from
+place to place. The Manganja possessed the large breed of humped
+cattle which fell into the hands of the Waiyau, and knew how to milk
+them. Their present owners never milk them, and they have dwindled
+into a few instead of the thousands of former times.[23]
+
+A lion killed a woman early yesterday morning, and ate most of her
+undisturbed.
+
+It is getting very hot; the ground to the feet of the men "burns like
+fire" after noon, so we are now obliged to make short marches, and
+early in the morning chiefly.
+
+Wikatani--Bishop Mackenzie's favourite boy--met a brother here, and he
+finds that he has an elder brother and a sister at Kabinga's. The
+father who sold him into slavery is dead. He wishes to stop with his
+relatives, and it will be well if he does. Though he has not much to
+say, what he does advance against the slave-trade will have its
+weight, and it will all be in the way of preparation for better times
+and more light.
+
+The elder brother was sent for, but had not arrived when it was
+necessary for us to leave Mponda's on the Rivulet Ntemangokwe. I
+therefore gave Wikatani some cloth, a flint gun instead of the
+percussion one he carried, some flints, paper to write upon, and
+commended him to Mponda's care till his relatives arrived. He has
+lately shown a good deal of levity, and perhaps it is best that he
+should have a touch of what the world is in reality.
+
+[In a letter written about this time Dr. Livingstone, in speaking of
+Wikatani, says, "He met with a brother, and found that he had two
+brothers and one or two sisters living down at the western shore of
+Lake Pamelombe under Kabinga. He thought that his relatives would not
+again sell him. I had asked him if he wished to remain, and he at once
+said yes, so I did not attempt to dissuade him: his excessive levity
+will perhaps be cooled by marriage. I think he may do good by telling
+some of what he has seen and heard. I asked him if he would obey an
+order from his chief to hunt the Manganja, and he said, 'No.' I hope
+he won't. In the event of any mission coming into the country of
+Mataka, he will go there. I gave him paper to write to you,[24] and,
+commending him to the chiefs, bade the poor boy farewell. I was sorry
+to part with him, but the Arabs tell the Waiyau chiefs that our object
+in liberating slaves is to make them our own and turn them to our
+religion. I had declared to them, through Wikatani as interpreter,
+that they never became our slaves, and were at liberty to go back to
+their relatives if they liked; and now it was impossible to object to
+Wikatani going without stultifying my own statements." It is only
+necessary to repeat that Wikatani and Chuma had been liberated from
+the slavers by Dr. Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861; they were
+mere children when set free.
+
+We must not forget to record the fact that when Mr. Young reached
+Maponda, two years afterwards, to ascertain whether the Doctor really
+had been murdered, as Musa declared, he was most hospitably received
+by the chief, who had by this time a great appreciation of everything
+English.]
+
+The lines of tattoo of the different tribes serve for ornaments, and
+are resorted to most by the women; it is a sort of heraldry closely
+resembling the Highland tartans.
+
+[Illustration: Manganja and Machinga women (from a Drawing by the late
+Dr. Meller).]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[16] Coal was shown to a group of natives when first the _Pioneer_
+ascended the river Shire. Members of numerous tribes were present, and
+all recognised it at once as Makala or coal.--ED.
+
+[17] Dr. Livingstone heard this subsequently when at Casembe's.
+
+[18] The greater part were driven down into the Manganja country by
+war and famine combined, and eventually filled the slave gangs of the
+Portuguese, whose agents went from Tette and Senna to procure
+them.--ED.
+
+[19] Pronounced Mkata by the Waiyau.--ED.
+
+[20] Earthquakes are by no means uncommon. A slight shock was felt in
+1861 at Magomero; on asking the natives if they knew the cause of it,
+they replied that on one occasion, after a very severe earthquake
+which shook boulders off the mountains, all the wise men of the
+country assembled to talk about it and came to the following
+conclusion, that a star had fallen from heaven into the sea, and that
+the bubbling caused the whole earth to rock; they said the effect was
+the same as that caused by throwing, a red-hot stone into a pot of
+water.--ED.
+
+[21] The Waiyau language differs very much from the Nyassa, and is
+exceedingly difficult to master: it holds good from the coast to
+Nyassa, but to the west of the Lake the Nyassa tongue is spoken over a
+vast tract.--ED.
+
+[22] We shall see that more to the north the hump entirely disappears.
+
+[23] It is very singular to witness the disgust with which the idea of
+drinking milk is received by most of these tribes when we remember
+that the Caffre nations on the south, and again, tribes more to the
+north, subsist principally on it. A lad will undergo punishment rather
+than milk a goat. Eggs are likewise steadily eschewed.--ED.
+
+[24] To myself.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited
+    chief. Beaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of
+    Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men
+    desert. Beaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once
+    more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of
+    Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the
+    transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance.
+    Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake.
+    The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin
+    Campbell. Milandos.
+
+_21st September, 1866._--We marched westwards, making across the base
+of Cape Maclear. Two men employed as guides and carriers, went along
+grumbling that their dignity was so outraged by working--"only fancy
+Waiyau carrying like slaves!!" They went but a short distance, and
+took advantage of my being in front to lay down the loads, one of
+which consisted of the havildar's bed and cooking things; here they
+opened the other bundle and paid themselves--the gallant havildar
+sitting and looking on. He has never been of the smallest use, and
+lately has pretended to mysterious pains in his feet; no swelling or
+other symptom accompanied this complaint. On coming to Pima's village
+he ate a whole fowl and some fish for supper, slept soundly till
+daybreak, then on awaking commenced a furious groaning--"feet were so
+bad." I told him that people usually moaned when insensible, but he
+had kept quiet till he awaked; he sulked at this, and remained all
+day, though I sent a man to carry his kit for him, and when he came
+up he had changed the seat of his complaint from his feet to any part
+of his abdomen. He gave off his gun-belt and pouch to the carrier.
+This was a blind to me, for I examined and found that he had already
+been stealing and selling his ammunition: this is all preparatory to
+returning to the coast with some slave-trader. Nothing can exceed the
+ease and grace with which sepoys can glide from a swagger into the
+most abject begging of food from the villagers. He has remained
+behind.
+
+_22nd September, 1866._--The hills we crossed were about 700 feet above
+Nyassa, generally covered with trees; no people were seen. We slept by
+the brook Sikoche. Rocks of hardened sandstone rested on mica schist,
+which had an efflorescence of alum on it, above this was dolomite; the
+hills often capped with it and oak-spar, giving a snowy appearance. We
+had a Waiyau party with us--six handsomely-attired women carried huge
+pots of beer for their husbands, who very liberally invited us to
+partake. After seven hours' hard travelling we came to the village,
+where we spend Sunday by the torrent Usangazi, and near a remarkable
+mountain, Namasi. The chief, a one-eyed man, was rather coy--coming
+_incognito_ to visit us; and, as I suspected that he was present, I
+asked if the chief were an old woman, afraid to look at and welcome a
+stranger? All burst into a laugh, and looked at him, when he felt
+forced to join in it, and asked what sort of food we liked best. Chuma
+put this clear enough by saying, "He eats everything eaten by the
+Waiyau." This tribe, or rather the Machinga, now supersede the
+Manganja. We passed one village of the latter near this, a sad,
+tumble-down affair, while the Waiyau villages are very neat, with
+handsome straw or reed fences all around their huts.
+
+_24th September, 1866._--We went only 2-1/2 miles to the village of
+Marenga, a very large one, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom
+of the heel of the Lake. The chief is ill of a loathsome disease
+derived direct from the Arabs. Raised patches of scab of circular form
+disfigure the face and neck as well as other parts. His brother begged
+me to see him and administer some remedy for the same complaint. He is
+at a village a little way off, and though sent for, was too ill to
+come or to be carried. The tribe is of Babisa origin. Many of these
+people had gone to the coast as traders, and returning with arms and
+ammunition joined the Waiyau in their forays on the Manganja, and
+eventually set themselves up as an independent tribe. The women do not
+wear the lip-ring, though the majority of them are Waiyau. They
+cultivate largely, and have plenty to eat. They have cattle, but do
+not milk them.
+
+The bogs, or earthen sponges,[25] of this country occupy a most
+important part in its physical geography, and probably explain the
+annual inundations of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sloping
+towards a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, there we
+have the conditions requisite for the formation of an African sponge.
+The vegetation, not being of a heathy or peat-forming kind, falls
+down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many cases a mass of
+this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand,
+which is revealed by crabs and other aquatic animals bringing it to
+the surface. At present, in the dry season, the black loam is cracked
+in all directions, and the cracks are often as much as three inches
+wide, and very deep. The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests
+on the sand, but when the rains come, the first supply is nearly all
+absorbed in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, and floats on
+the sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a
+landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that spot. All the pools in
+the lower portion of this spring-course are filled by the first rains,
+which happen south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over
+any spot. The second, or greater rains, happen in his course north
+again, when all the bogs and river-courses being wet, the supply runs
+off, and forms the inundation: this was certainly the case as observed
+on the Zambesi and Shire, and, taking the different times for the
+sun's passage north of the equator, it explains the inundation of the
+Nile.
+
+_25th September, 1866._--Marenga's town on the west shore of Lake Nyassa is
+very large, and his people collected in great numbers to gaze at the
+stranger. The chief's brother asked a few questions, and I took the
+occasion to be a good one for telling him something about the Bible
+and the future state. The men said that their fathers had never told
+them aught about the soul, but they thought that the whole man rotted
+and came to nothing. What I said was very nicely put by a volunteer
+spokesman, who seemed to have a gift that way, for all listened most
+attentively, and especially when told that our Father in heaven loved
+all, and heard prayers addressed to Him.
+
+Marenga came dressed in a red-figured silk shawl, and attended by
+about ten court beauties, who spread a mat for him, then a cloth
+above, and sat down as if to support him. He asked me to examine his
+case inside a hut. He exhibited his loathsome skin disease, and being
+blacker than his wives, the blotches with which he was covered made
+him appear very ugly. He thought that the disease was in the country
+before Arabs came. Another new disease acquired from them was the
+small-pox.
+
+_26th September, 1866._--An Arab passed us yesterday, his slaves going by
+another route across the base of Cape Maclear. He told Musa that all
+the country in front was full of Mazitu; that forty-four Arabs and
+their followers had been killed by them at Kasungu, and he only
+escaped. Musa and all the Johanna men now declared that they would go
+no farther. Musa said, "No good country that; I want to go back to
+Johanna to see my father and mother and son." I took him to Marenga,
+and asked the chief about the Mazitu. He explained that the
+disturbance was caused by the Manganja finding that Jumbe brought
+Arabs and ammunition into the country every year, and they resented it
+in consequence; they would not allow more to come, because they were
+the sufferers, and their nation was getting destroyed.
+
+I explained to Musa that we should avoid the Mazitu: Marenga added,
+"There are no Mazitu near where you are going;" but Musa's eyes _stood
+out_ with terror, and he said, "I no can believe that man." But I
+inquired, "How can you believe the Arab so easily?" Musa answered, "I
+ask him to tell me true, and he say true, true," &c.
+
+When we started, all the Johanna men walked off, leaving the goods on
+the ground. They have been such inveterate thieves that I am not sorry
+to get rid of them; for though my party is now inconveniently small, I
+could not trust them with flints in their guns, nor allow them to
+remain behind, for their object was invariably to plunder their loads.
+
+[Here then we have Livingstone's account of the origin of that
+well-told story, which at first seemed too true. How Mr. Edward Young,
+R.N., declared it to be false, and subsequently proved it untrue, is
+already well known. This officer's quick voyage to Lake Nyassa
+reflected the greatest credit on him, and all hearts were filled with
+joy when he returned and reported the tale of Livingstone's murder to
+be merely an invention of Musa and his comrades.]
+
+I ought to mention that the stealing by the Johanna men was not the
+effect of hunger; it attained its height when we had plenty. If one
+remained behind, we knew his object in delaying was stealing. He gave
+what he filched to the others, and Musa shared the dainties they
+bought with the stolen property. When spoken to he would say, "I every
+day tell Johanna men no steal Doctor's things." As he came away and
+left them in the march, I insisted out his bringing up all his men;
+this he did not relish, and the amount stolen was not small. One stole
+fifteen pounds of fine powder, another seven, another left six
+table-cloths out of about twenty-four; another called out to a man to
+bring a fish, and he would buy it with beads, the beads being stolen,
+and Musa knew it all and connived at it; but it was terror that drove
+him away at last.
+
+With our goods in canoes we went round the bottom of the heel of
+Nyassa, slept among reeds, and next morning (27th) landed at Msangwa,
+which is nearly opposite Kimsusa's, or Katosa's, as the Makololo
+called him. A man had been taken off by a crocodile last night; he had
+been drinking beer, and went down to the water to cool himself, where
+he lay down, and the brute seized him. The water was very muddy, being
+stirred up by an east wind, which lashed the waves into our canoes,
+and wetted our things. The loud wail of the women is very painful to
+hear; it sounds so dolefully.
+
+_28th, September, 1866._--We reached Kinisusa's, below Mount Mulundini, of
+Kirk's range.[26] The chief was absent, but he was sent for
+immediately: his town has much increased since I saw it last.
+
+_29th September, 1866._--Another Arab passed last night, with the tale that
+his slaves had all been taken from him by the Mazitu. It is more
+respectable to be robbed by them than by the Manganja, who are much
+despised and counted nobodies. I propose to go west of this among the
+Maravi until quite away beyond the disturbances, whether of Mazitu or
+Manganja.
+
+_30th September, 1866._--We enjoy our Sunday here. We have-abundance of
+food from Kimsusa's wife. The chief wished me to go alone and enjoy
+his drinking bout, and then we could return to this place together;
+but this was not to my taste.
+
+_1st October, 1866._--Kimsusa, or Mehusa, came this morning, and
+seemed very glad again to see his old friend. He sent off at once to
+bring an enormous ram, which had either killed or seriously injured a
+man. The animal came tied to a pole to keep him off the man who held
+it, while a lot more carried him. He was prodigiously fat;[27] this is
+a true African way of showing love--plenty of fat and beer.
+Accordingly the chief brought a huge basket of "pombe," the native
+beer, and another of "nsima," or porridge, and a pot of cooked meat;
+to these were added a large basket of maize. So much food had been
+brought to us, that we had at last to explain that we could not carry
+it.
+
+[The Doctor states a fact in the next few lines which shows that the
+Africans readily profit by advice which appeals to their common sense,
+and we make this observation in full knowledge of similar instances.]
+
+Kimsusa says that they felt earthquakes at the place Mponda now
+occupies, but none where he is now. He confirms the tradition that the
+Manganja came from the west or W.N.W. He speaks more rationally about
+the Deity than some have done, and adds, that it was by following the
+advice which I gave him the last time I saw him, and not selling his
+people, that his village is now three times its former size. He has
+another village besides, and he was desirous that I should see that
+too; that was the reason he invited me to come, but the people would
+come and visit me.
+
+_2nd October, 1866._--Kimsusa made his appearance early with a huge
+basket of beer, 18 inches high and 15 inches in diameter. He served it
+out for a time, taking deep draughts himself, becoming extremely
+loquacious in consequence. He took us to a dense thicket behind his
+town, among numbers of lofty trees, many of which I have seen nowhere
+else; that under which we sat bears a fruit in clusters, which is
+eatable, and called "_Mbedwa_." A space had been cleared, and we were
+taken to this shady spot as the one in which business of importance
+and secrecy is transacted. Another enormous basket of beer was brought
+here by his wives, but there was little need for it, for Kimsusa
+talked incessantly, and no business was done.
+
+_3rd October, 1866._--The chief came early, and sober. I rallied him
+on his previous loquacity, and said one ought to find time in the
+morning if business was to be done: he took it in good part, and one
+of his wives joined in bantering him. She is _the_ wife and the mother
+of the sons in whom he delights, and who will succeed him. I proposed
+to him to send men with me to the Babisa country, and I would pay them
+there, where they could buy ivory for him with the pay, and, bringing
+it back, he would be able to purchase clothing without selling his
+people. He says that his people would not bring the pay or anything
+else back. When he sends to purchase ivory he gives the price to Arabs
+or Babisa, and they buy for him and conduct his business honestly; but
+his people, the Manganja, cannot be trusted: this shows a remarkable
+state of distrust, and, from previous information, it is probably
+true.
+
+A party of the Arab Khambuiri's people went up lately to the Maravi
+country above this, and immediately west of Kirk's range, to purchase
+slaves: but they were attacked by the Maravi, and dispersed with
+slaughter: this makes Kimsusa's people afraid to venture there. They
+had some quarrel with the Maravi also of their own, and no intercourse
+now took place. A path further south was followed by Mponda lately,
+and great damage done, so it would not be wise to go on his footsteps.
+Kimsusa said he would give me carriers to go up to the Maravi, but he
+wished to be prepaid: to this I agreed, but even then he could not
+prevail on anyone to go. He then sent for an old Mobisa man, who has a
+village under him, and acknowledges Kimsusa's power. He says that he
+fears that, should he force his Manganja to go, they would leave us on
+the road, or run away on the first appearance of danger; but this
+Mobisa man would be going to his own country, and would stick by us.
+Meanwhile the chief overstocks us with beer and other food.
+
+_4th October, 1866._--The Mobisa man sent for came, but was so ignorant of
+his own country, not knowing the names of the chief Babisa town or any
+of the rivers, that I declined his guidance. He would only have been a
+clog on us; and anything about the places in front of us we could
+ascertain at the villages where we touch by inquiry as well as he
+could.
+
+A woman turned up here, and persuaded Chuma that she was his aunt. He
+wanted to give her at once a fathom of calico and beads, and wished me
+to cut his pay down for the purpose. I persuaded him to be content
+with a few beads for her. He gave her his spoon and some other
+valuables, fully persuaded that she was a relative, though he was
+interrogated first as to his father's name, and tribe, &c., before she
+declared herself.
+
+It shows a most forgiving disposition on the part of these boys to
+make presents to those who, if genuine relations, actually sold them.
+But those who have been caught young, know nothing of the evils of
+slavery, and do not believe in its ills. Chuma, for instance, believes
+now that he was caught and sold by the Manganja, and not by his own
+Waiyau, though it was just in the opposite way that he became a slave,
+and he asserted and believes that no Waiyau ever sold his own child.
+When reminded that Wikatani was sold by his own father, he denied it;
+then that the father of Chimwala, another boy, sold him, his mother,
+and sister, he replied, "These are Machinga." This is another tribe of
+Waiyau; but this showed that he was determined to justify his
+countrymen at any rate. I mention this matter, because though the
+Oxford and Cambridge Mission have an advantage in the instruction of
+boys taken quite young from slavers, yet these same boys forget the
+evils to which they were exposed and from which they were rescued, and
+it is even likely that they will, like Chuma, deny that any benefit
+was conferred upon them by their deliverance. This was not stated
+broadly by Chuma, but his tone led one to believe that he was quite
+ready to return to the former state.
+
+_5th October, 1866._--The chief came early with an immense basket of
+beer, as usual. We were ready to start: he did not relish this; but I
+told him it was clear that his people set very light by his authority.
+He declared that he would force them or go himself, with his wives as
+carriers. This dawdling and guzzling had a bad effect on my remaining
+people. Simon, a Nassick lad, for instance, overheard two words which
+he understood; these were "Mazitu" and "lipululu," or desert; and from
+these he conjured up a picture of Mazitu rushing out upon us from the
+jungle, and killing all without giving us time to say a word! To this
+he added scraps of distorted information: Khambuiri was a very bad
+chief in front, &c., all showing egregious cowardice; yet he came to
+give me advice. On asking what he knew (as he could not speak the
+language), he replied that he heard the above two words, and that
+Chuma could not translate them, but he had caught them, and came to
+warn me.
+
+The chief asked me to stay over to-day, and he would go with his wives
+to-morrow; I was his friend, and he would not see me in difficulties
+without doing his utmost. He says that there is no danger of our not
+finding people for carrying loads. It is probable that Khambuiri's
+people went as marauders, and were beaten off in consequence.
+
+_6th October, 1866._--We marched about seven miles to the north to a
+village opposite the pass Tapiri, and on a rivulet, Godedza. It was
+very hot. Kimsusa behaves like a king: his strapping wives came to
+carry loads, and shame his people. Many of the young men turned out
+and took the loads, but it was evident that they feared retaliation if
+they ventured up the pass. One wife carried beer, another meal; and as
+soon as we arrived, cooking commenced: porridge and roasted goat's
+flesh made a decent meal. A preparation of meal called "Toku" is very
+refreshing and brings out all the sugary matter in the grain: he gave
+me some in the way, and, seeing I liked it, a calabash full was
+prepared for me in the evening. Kimsusa delights in showing me to his
+people as his friend. If I could have used his pombe, or beer, it
+would have put some fat on my bones, but it requires a strong
+digestion; many of the chiefs and their wives live on it almost
+entirely. A little flesh is necessary to relieve the acidity it
+causes; and they keep all flesh very carefully, no matter how high it
+may become: drying it on a stage over a fire prevents entire
+putridity.
+
+_7th October, 1866._--I heard hooping-cough[28] in the village. We
+found our visitors so disagreeable that I was glad to march; they were
+Waiyau, and very impudent, demanding gun or game medicine to enable
+them to shoot well: they came into the hut uninvited, and would take
+no denial. It is probable that the Arabs drive a trade in gun
+medicine: it is inserted in cuts made above the thumb, and on the
+forearm. Their superciliousness shows that they feel themselves to be
+the dominant race. The Manganja trust to their old bows and arrows;
+they are much more civil than Ajawa or Waiyau.
+
+[The difference between these two great races is here well worthy of
+the further notice which Livingstone no doubt would have given it. As
+a rule, the Manganja are extremely clever in all the savage arts and
+manufactures. Their looms turn out a strong serviceable cotton cloth;
+their iron weapons and implements show a taste for design which is not
+reached by the neighbouring tribes, and in all matters that relate to
+husbandry they excel: but in dash and courage they are deficient. The
+Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped heads, as
+distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the poor Manganja;
+they are jocular and merry, given to travelling, and bold in
+war--these are qualities which serve them well as they are driven from
+pillar to post through slave wars and internal dissension, but they
+have not the brains of the Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark
+in any direction where brains are wanted.]
+
+A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the whole haul of his
+net, came and gave me four fowls: some really delight in showing
+kindness. When we came near the bottom of the pass Tapiri, Kimsusa's
+men became loud against his venturing further; he listened, then burst
+away from them: he listened again, then did the same; and as he had
+now got men for us, I thought it better to let him go.
+
+In three hours and a quarter we had made a clear ascent of 2200 feet
+above the Lake. The first persons we met were two men and a boy, who
+were out hunting with a dog and basket-trap. This is laid down in the
+run of some small animal; the dog chases it, and it goes into the
+basket which is made of split bamboo, and has prongs looking inwards,
+which prevent its egress: mouse traps are made in the same fashion. I
+suspected that the younger of the men had other game in view, and
+meant, if fit opportunity offered, to insert an arrow in a Waiyau, who
+was taking away his wife as a slave. He told me before we had gained
+the top of the ascent that some Waiyau came to a village, separated
+from his by a small valley, picked a quarrel with the inhabitants, and
+then went and took the wife and child of a poorer countryman to pay
+these pretended offences.
+
+_8th October, 1866._--At the first village we found that the people up
+here and those down below were mutually afraid of each other. Kimsusa
+came to the bottom of the range, his last act being the offer of a pot
+of beer, and a calabash of Toku, which latter was accepted. I paid his
+wives for carrying our things: they had done well, and after we gained
+the village where we slept, sang and clapped their hands vigorously
+till one o'clock in the morning, when I advised them to go to sleep.
+The men he at last provided were very faithful and easily satisfied.
+Here we found the headman, Kawa, of Mpalapala, quite as hospitable. In
+addition to providing a supper, it is the custom to give breakfast
+before starting. Resting on the 8th to make up for the loss of rest on
+Sunday; we marched on Tuesday (the 9th), but were soon brought to a
+stand by Gombwa, whose village, Tamiala, stands on another ridge.
+
+Gombwa, a laughing, good-natured man, said that he had sent for all
+his people to see me; and I ought to sleep, to enable them to look on
+one the like of whom had never come their way before. Intending to go
+on, I explained some of my objects in coming through the country,
+advising the people to refrain from selling each other, as it ends in
+war and depopulation. He was cunning, and said, "Well, you must sleep
+here, and all my people will come and hear those words of peace." I
+explained that I had employed carriers, who expected to be paid though
+I had gone but a small part of a day; he replied, "But they will go
+home and come again to-morrow, and it will count but one day:" I was
+thus constrained to remain.
+
+_9th October, 1866._--Both barometer and boiling-point showed an
+altitude of upwards of 4000 feet above the sea. This is the hottest
+month, but the air is delightfully clear, and delicious. The country
+is very fine, lying in long slopes, with mountains rising all around,
+from 2000 to 3000 feet above this upland. They are mostly jagged and
+rough (not rounded like those near to Mataka's): the long slopes are
+nearly denuded of trees, and the patches of cultivation are so large
+and often squarish in form, that but little imagination is requisite
+to transform the whole into the cultivated fields of England; but no
+hedgerows exist. The trees are in clumps on the tops of the ridges, or
+at the villages, or at the places of sepulture. Just now the young
+leaves are out, but are not yet green. In some lights they look brown,
+but with transmitted light, or when one is near them, crimson
+prevails. A yellowish-green is met sometimes in the young leaves, and
+brown, pink, and orange-red. The soil is rich, but the grass is only
+excessively rank in spots; in general it is short. A kind of trenching
+of the ground is resorted to; they hoe deep, and draw it well to
+themselves: this exposes the other earth to the hoe. The soil is
+burned too: the grass and weeds are placed in flat heaps, and soil
+placed over them: the burning is slow, and most of the products of
+combustion are retained to fatten the field; in this way the people
+raise large crops. Men and women and children engage in field labour,
+but at present many of the men are engaged in spinning buaze[29] and
+cotton. The former is made into a coarse sacking-looking stuff,
+immensely strong, which seems to be worn by the women alone; the men
+are clad in uncomfortable goatskins. No wild animals seem to be in the
+country, and indeed the population is so large they would have very
+unsettled times of it. At every turning we meet people, or see their
+villages; all armed with bows and arrows. The bows are unusually long:
+I measured one made of bamboo, and found that along the bowstring it
+measured six feet four inches. Many carry large knives of fine iron;
+and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men and women wear the hair
+long, a mass of small ringlets comes down and rests on the shoulders,
+giving them the appearance of the ancient Egyptians. One side is often
+cultivated, and the mass hangs jauntily on that side; some few have a
+solid cap of it. Not many women wear the lip-ring: the example of the
+Waiyau has prevailed so far; but some of the young women have raised
+lines crossing each other on the arms, which must have cost great
+pain: they have also small cuts, covering in some cases the whole
+body. The Maravi or Manganja here may be said to be in their primitive
+state. We find them very liberal with their food: we give a cloth to
+the headman of the village where we pass the night, and he gives a
+goat, or at least cooked fowls and porridge, at night and morning.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo on Women.]
+
+We were invited by Gombwa in the afternoon to speak the same words to
+his people that we used to himself in the morning. He nudged a boy to
+respond, which is considered polite, though he did it only with a
+rough hem! at the end of each sentence. As for our general discourse
+we mention our relationship to our Father: His love to all His
+children--the guilt of selling any of His children--the consequence;
+_e.g._ it begets war, for they don't like to sell their own, and steal
+from other villagers, who retaliate. Arabs and Waiyau invited into the
+country by their selling, foster feuds, and war and depopulation
+ensue. We mention the Bible--future state--prayer: advise union, that
+they should unite as one family to expel enemies, who came first as
+slave-traders, and ended by leaving the country a wilderness. In
+reference to union, we showed that they ought to have seen justice
+done to the man who lost his wife and child at their very doors; but
+this want of cohesion is the bane of the Manganja. If the evil does
+not affect themselves they don't care whom it injures; and Gombwa
+confirmed this, by saying that when he routed Khambuiri's people, the
+villagers west of him fled instead of coming to his aid.
+
+We hear that many of the Manganja up here are fugitives from Nyassa.
+
+_10th October, 1866._--Kawa and his people were with us early this
+morning, and we started from Tamiala with them. The weather is lovely,
+and the scenery, though at present tinged with yellow from the grass,
+might be called glorious. The bright sun and delicious air are quite
+exhilarating. We passed a fine flowing rivulet, called Levize, going
+into the Lake, and many smaller runnels of delicious cold water. On
+resting by a dark sepulchral grove, a tree attracted the attention, as
+nowhere else seen: it is called Bokonto, and said to bear eatable
+fruit. Many fine flowers were just bursting into full blossom. After
+about four hours' march we put up at Chitimba, the village of
+Kangomba, and were introduced by Kawa, who came all the way for the
+purpose.
+
+_11th October, 1866._--A very cold morning, with a great bank of black
+clouds in the east, whence the wind came. Therm. 59 deg.; in hut 69 deg.
+The huts are built very well. The roof, with the lower part plastered,
+is formed so as not to admit a ray of light, and the only visible mode
+of ingress for it is by the door. This case shows that winter is cold:
+on proposing to start, breakfast was not ready: then a plan was formed
+to keep me another day at a village close by, belonging to one Kulu, a
+man of Kauma, to whom we go next. It was effectual, and here we are
+detained another day. A curiously cut-out stool is in my hut, made by
+the Mkwisa, who are south-west of this: it is of one block, but
+hollowed out, and all the spaces indicated are hollow too: about 2-1/2
+feet long by 1-1/2 foot high.
+
+[Illustration: Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood hollowed
+out.]
+
+_12th October, 1866._--We march westerly, with a good deal of
+southing. Kulu gave us a goat, and cooked liberally for us all. He set
+off with us as if to go to Kauma's in our company, but after we had
+gone a couple of miles he slipped behind, and ran away. Some are
+naturally mean, and some naturally noble: the mean cannot help showing
+their nature, nor can the noble; but the noble-hearted must enjoy life
+most. Kulu got a cloth, and he gave us at least its value; but he
+thought he had got more than he gave, and so by running away that he
+had done us nicely, without troubling himself to go and introduce us
+to Kauma. I usually request a headman of a village to go with us. They
+give a good report of us, if for no other reason than for their own
+credit, because no one likes to be thought giving his countenance to
+people other than respectable, and it costs little.
+
+We came close to the foot of several squarish mountains, having
+perpendicular sides. One, called "Ulazo pa Malungo," is used by the
+people, whose villages cluster round its base as a storehouse for
+grain. Large granaries stand on its top, containing food to be used in
+case of war. A large cow is kept up there, which is supposed capable
+of knowing and letting the owners know when war is coming.[30] There
+is a path up, but it was not visible to us. The people are all
+Kanthunda, or climbers, not Maravi. Kimsusa said that he was the only
+Maravi chief, but this I took to be an ebullition of beer bragging:
+the natives up here, however, confirm this, and assert that they are
+not Maravi, who are known by having markings down the side of the
+face.
+
+We spent the night at a Kanthunda village on the western side of a
+mountain called Phunze (the _h_ being an aspirate only). Many villages
+are planted round its base, but in front, that is, westwards, we have
+plains, and there the villages are as numerous: mostly they are within
+half a mile of each other, and few are a mile from other hamlets. Each
+village has a clump of trees around it: this is partly for shade and
+partly for privacy from motives of decency. The heat of the sun causes
+the effluvia to exhale quickly, so they are seldom offensive. The rest
+of the country, where not cultivated, is covered with grass, the
+seed-stalks about knee deep. It is gently undulating, lying in low
+waves, stretching N.E. and S.W. The space between each wave is usually
+occupied by a boggy spot or watercourse, which in some cases is filled
+with pools with trickling rills between. All the people are engaged
+at present in making mounds six or eight feet square, and from two to
+three feet high. The sods in places not before hoed are separated from
+the soil beneath and collected into flattened heaps, the grass
+undermost; when dried, fire is applied and slow combustion goes on,
+most of the products of the burning being retained in the ground, much
+of the soil is incinerated. The final preparation is effected by the
+men digging up the subsoil round the mound, passing each hoeful into
+the left hand, where it pulverizes, and is then thrown on to the heap.
+It is thus virgin soil on the top of the ashes and burned ground of
+the original heap, very clear of weeds. At present many mounds have
+beans and maize about four inches high. Holes, a foot in diameter and
+a few inches deep, are made irregularly over the surface of the mound,
+and about eight or ten grains put into each: these are watered by hand
+and calabash, and kept growing till the rains set in, when a very
+early crop is secured.
+
+_13th October, 1866._--After leaving Phunze, we crossed the Levinge, a
+rivulet which flows northwards, and then into Lake Nyassa; the lines
+of gentle undulation tend in that direction. Some hills appear on the
+plains, but after the mountains which we have left behind they are
+mere mounds. We are over 3000 feet above the sea, and the air is
+delicious; but we often pass spots covered with a plant which grows in
+marshy places, and its heavy smell always puts me in mind that at
+other seasons this may not be so pleasant a residence. The fact of
+even maize being planted on mounds where the ground is naturally quite
+dry, tells a tale of abundant humidity of climate.
+
+Kauma, a fine tall man, with a bald head and pleasant manners, told us
+that some of his people had lately returned from the Chibisa or Babisa
+country, whither they had gone to buy ivory, and they would give me
+information about the path. He took a fancy to one of the boys'
+blankets; offering a native cloth, much larger, in exchange, and even
+a sheep to boot; but the owner being unwilling to part with his
+covering, Kauma told me that he had not sent for his Babisa travellers
+on account of my boy refusing to deal with him. A little childish
+this, but otherwise he was very hospitable; he gave me a fine goat,
+which, unfortunately, my people left behind.
+
+The chief said that no Arabs ever came his way, nor Portuguese native
+traders. When advising them to avoid the first attempts to begin the
+slave-trade, as it would inevitably lead to war and depopulation,
+Kauma replied that the chiefs had resolved to unite against the Waiyau
+of Mponde should he come again on a foray up to the highlands; but
+they are like a rope of sand, there is no cohesion among them, and
+each village is nearly independent of every other: they mutually
+distrust each other.
+
+_14th October, 1866._--Spent Sunday here. Kauma says that his people
+are partly Kanthunda and partly Chipeta. The first are the
+mountaineers, the second dwellers on the plains. The Chipeta have many
+lines of marking: they are all only divisions of the great Manganja
+tribe, and their dialects differ very slightly from that spoken by the
+same people on the Shire. The population is very great and very
+ceremonious. When we meet anyone he turns aside and sits down: we clap
+the hand on the chest and say, "Re peta--re peta," that is, "we pass,"
+or "let us pass:" this is responded to at once by a clapping of the
+hands together. When a person is called at a distance he gives two
+loud claps of assent; or if he rises from near a superior he does, the
+same thing, which is a sort of leave-taking.
+
+We have to ask who are the principal chiefs in the direction which we
+wish to take, and decide accordingly. Zomba was pointed out as a chief
+on a range of hills on our west: beyond him lies Undi m'senga. I had
+to take this route, as my people have a very vivid idea of the danger
+of going northwards towards the Mazitu. We made more southing than we
+wished. One day beyond Zomba and W.S.W. is the part called Chindando,
+where the Portuguese formerly went for gold. They don't seem to have
+felt it worth while to come here, as neither ivory nor gold could be
+obtained if they did. The country is too full of people to allow any
+wild animals elbow-room: even the smaller animals are hunted down by
+means of nets and dogs.
+
+We rested at Pachoma; the headman offering a goat and beer, but I
+declined, and went on to Molomba. Here Kauma's carriers turned because
+a woman had died that morning as we left the village. They asserted
+that had she died before we started not a man would have left: this
+shows a reverence for death, for the woman was no relative of any of
+them. The headman of Molomba was very poor but very liberal, cooking
+for us and presenting a goat: another headman from a neighbouring
+village, a laughing, good-natured old man, named Chikala, brought beer
+and a fowl in the morning. I asked him to go on with us to Mironga, it
+being important, as above-mentioned, to have the like of his kind in
+our company, and he consented. We saw Mount Ngala in the distance,
+like a large sugar-loaf shot up in the air: in our former route to
+Kasungu we passed north of it.
+
+_16th October, 1866._--Crossed the rivulet Chikuyo going N. for the
+Lake, and Mironga being but one-and-a-half hour off, we went on to
+Chipanga: this is the proper name of what on the Zambesi is corrupted
+into Shupanga. The headman, a miserable hemp-consuming[31] leper, fled
+from us. We were offered a miserable hut, which we refused, Chikala
+meanwhile went through the whole village seeking a better, which we
+ultimately found: it was not in this chief to be generous, though
+Chikala did what he could in trying to indoctrinate him: when I gave
+him a present he immediately proposed to _sell_ a goat! We get on
+pretty well however.
+
+Zomha is in a range of hills to our west, called Zala nyama. The
+Portuguese, in going to Casembe, went still further west than this.
+
+Passing on we came to a smithy, and watched the founder at work
+drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. He broke through the
+hardened slag by striking it with an iron instrument inserted in the
+end of a pole, when the material flowed out of the small hole left for
+the purpose in the bottom of the furnace. The ore (probably the black
+oxide) was like sand, and was put in at the top of the furnace, mixed
+with charcoal. Only one bellows was at work, formed out of a goatskin,
+and the blast was very poor. Many of these furnaces, or their remains,
+are met with on knolls; those at work have a peculiarly tall hut built
+over them.
+
+On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, with the
+Diampwe stream flowing along it, and the Dzala nyama range on the
+western side, are two villages screened by fine specimens of the
+_Ficus Indica_. One of these is owned by the headman Theresa, and
+there we spent the night. We made very short marches, for the sun is
+very powerful, and the soil baked hard, is sore on the feet: no want
+of water, however, is felt, for we come to supplies every mile or two.
+
+The people look very poor, having few or no beads; the ornaments being
+lines and cuttings on the skin. They trust more to buaze than cotton.
+I noticed but two cotton patches. The women are decidedly plain; but
+monopolize all the buaze cloth. Theresa was excessively liberal, and
+having informed us that Zomba lived some distance up the range and was
+not the principal man in these parts, we, to avoid climbing the hills,
+turned away to the north, in the direction of the paramount chief,
+Chisumpi, whom we found to be only traditionally great.
+
+_20th October, 1866._--In passing along we came to a village embowered
+in fine trees; the headman is Kaveta, a really fine specimen of the
+Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine forehead and Assyrian nose. He
+proposed to us to remain over night with him, and I unluckily
+declined.
+
+Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman, and then came
+to a smith's village, where the same invitation was given and refused.
+A sort of infatuation drove us on, and after a long hot march we found
+the great Chisumpi, the facsimile in black of Sir Colin Campbell; his
+nose, mouth, and the numerous wrinkles on his face were identical with
+those of the great General, but here all resemblance ceased. Two men
+had preceded us to give information, and when I followed I saw that
+his village was one of squalid misery, the only fine things about
+being the lofty trees in which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at
+a village about half a mile behind: his son was browbeating him on
+some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. Next
+morning he came early to that village, and arranged for our departure,
+offering nothing, and apparently not wishing to see us at all. I
+suspect that though paramount chief, he is weak-minded, and has lost
+thereby all his influence, but in the people's eyes he is still a
+great one.
+
+Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, I inquired for a
+village in which we could rest Saturday and Sunday, and at a distance
+from Chisumpi. A headman volunteered to lead us to one west of this.
+In passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our guide remarked,
+"Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was the first time I have
+heard the word "sleep" applied to death in these parts. The trees in
+these groves, and around many of the villages, are very large, and
+show what the country would become if depopulated.
+
+We crossed the Diampwe or Adiampwe, from five to fifteen yards wide,
+and well supplied with water even now. It rises near the Ndomo
+mountains, and flows northwards into the Lintipe and Lake. We found
+Chitokola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant one on the east side
+of the Adiampwe Valley. Many elephants and other animals feed in the
+valley, and we saw the Bechuana Hopo[32] again after many years.
+
+The Ambarre, otherwise Nyumbo plant, has a pea-shaped, or rather
+papilionaceous flower, with a fine scent. It seems to grow quite wild;
+its flowers are yellow.
+
+Chaola is the poison used by the Maravi for their arrows, it is said
+to cause mortification.
+
+One of the wonders usually told of us in this upland region is that we
+sleep without fire. The boys' blankets suffice for warmth during the
+night, when the thermometer sinks to 64 deg.-60 deg., but no one else has
+covering sufficient; some huts in process of building here show that a
+thick coating of plaster is put on outside the roof before the grass
+thatch is applied; not a chink is left for the admission of air.
+
+Ohitikola was absent from Paritala when we arrived on some _milando_
+or other. These _milandos_ are the business of their lives. They are
+like petty lawsuits; if one trespasses on his neighbour's rights in
+any way it is a _milando_, and the headmen of all the villages about
+are called on to settle it. Women are a fruitful source of _milando_.
+A few ears of Indian corn had been taken by a person, and Chitikola
+had been called a full day's journey off to settle this _milando_. He
+administered _Muave_[33] and the person vomited, therefore innocence
+was clearly established! He came in the evening of the 21st footsore
+and tired, and at once gave us some beer. This perpetual reference to
+food and drink is natural, inasmuch as it is the most important point
+in our intercourse. While the chief was absent we got nothing; the
+queen even begged a little meat for her child, who was recovering from
+an attack of small-pox. There being no shops we had to sit still
+without food. I took observations for longitude, and whiled away the
+time by calculating the lunars. Next day the chief gave us a goat
+cooked whole and plenty of porridge: I noticed that he too had the
+Assyrian type of face.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[25] Dr. Livingstone's description of the "Sponge" will stand the
+reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention of these
+obstructions in the later travels towards the north.--ED.
+
+[26] So named when Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Kirk, and Mr. Charles
+Livingstone, discovered Lake Nyassa together.
+
+[27] The sheep are of the black-haired variety: their tails grow to an
+enormous size. A rain which came from Nunkajowa, a Waiyau chief, on a
+former occasion, was found to have a tail weighing 11 lbs.; but for
+the journey, and two or three days short commons, an extra 2 or 3 lbs.
+of fat "would have been on it.--ED.
+
+[28] This complaint has not been reported as an African disease
+before; it probably clings to the higher levels.--ED.
+
+[29] A fine fibre derived from the shoots of a shrub (_Securidaca
+Longipedunculata_).
+
+[30] Several superstitions of this nature seem to point to a remnant
+of the old heathen ritual, and the worship of gods in mountain groves.
+
+[31] Hemp = bange is smoked throughout Central Africa, and if used in
+excess produces partial imbecility.--ED.
+
+[32] The Hopo is a funnel-shaped fence which encloses a considerable
+tract of country: a "drive" is organised, and animals of all
+descriptions are urged on till they become jammed together in the neck
+of the hopo, where they are speared to death or else destroyed in a
+number of pitfalls placed there for the purpose.
+
+[33] The ordeal poison.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu.
+    Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed
+    between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings.
+    An old Nimrod. The Bua Eiver. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of
+    transport. Chilobe. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou
+    bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the
+    Loangwa.
+
+
+We started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of October, and he
+led us away westwards across the Lilongwe River, then turned north
+till we came to a village called Mashumba, the headman of which was
+the only chief who begged anything except medicine, and he got less
+than we were in the habit of giving in consequence: we give a cloth
+usually, and clothing being very scarce this is considered
+munificent.[34]
+
+We had the Zalanyama range on our left, and our course was generally
+north, but we had to go in the direction of the villages which were on
+friendly terms with our guides, and sometimes we went but a little
+way, as they studied to make the days as short as possible. The
+headman of the last village, Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a
+village of smiths, four furnaces and one smithy being at work. We
+crossed the Chiniambo, a strong river coming from Zalanyama and
+flowing into the Mirongwe, which again goes into Lintipe. The country
+near the hills becomes covered with forest, the trees are chiefly
+Masuko Mochenga (the gum-copal tree), the bark-cloth tree and
+rhododendrons. The heath known at the Cape as _Rhinoster bosch_ occurs
+frequently, and occasionally we have thorny acacias. The grass is
+short, but there is plenty of it.
+
+_24th October, 1866._--Our guide, Mpanda, led us through the forest by
+what he meant to be a short cut to Chimuna's. We came on a herd of
+about fifteen elephants, and many trees laid down by these animals:
+they seem to relish the roots of some kinds, and spend a good deal of
+time digging them up; they chew woody roots and branches as thick as
+the handle of a spade. Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd
+of elands; they kept out of bow-shot only: a herd of the baama or
+hartebeest stood at 200 paces, and one was shot.
+
+While all were rejoicing over the meat we got news, from the
+inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the Mazitu were
+out on a foray. While roasting and eating meat I went forward with
+Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry the rest, but was soon
+recalled. Another crowd were also in full retreat; the people were
+running straight to the Zalanyama range regardless of their feet,
+making a path for themselves through the forest; they had escaped from
+the Mazitu that morning; "they saw them!" Mpanda's people wished to
+leave and go to look after their own village, but we persuaded them,
+on pain of a _milando_, to take us to the nearest village, that was at
+the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of the
+fugitives. The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills must
+have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison with dear
+life! We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend our property
+in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we should, in the event of
+being successful, be a defence to the fugitives who crowded up its
+rocky sides, but next morning we heard that the enemy had gone to the
+south. Had we gone forward, as we intended, to search for men to
+carry the meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the
+second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their village
+till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near escape I had had
+from walking into their power.
+
+_25th October, 1866._--Came along northwards to Chimuna's town, a
+large one of Chipeta with many villages around. Our path led through
+the forest, and as we emerged into the open strath in which the
+villages lie, we saw the large anthills, each the size of the end of a
+one-storied cottage, covered with men on guard watching for the
+Mazitu.
+
+A long line of villagers were just arriving from the south, and we
+could see at some low hills in that direction the smoke arising from
+the burning settlements. None but men were present, the women and the
+chief were at the mountain called Pambe; all were fully armed with
+their long bows, some flat in the bow, others round, and it was common
+to have the quiver on the back, and a bunch of feathers stuck in the
+hair like those in our Lancers' shakos. But they remained not to
+fight, but to watch their homes and stores of grain from robbers
+amongst their own people in case no Mazitu came! They gave a good hut,
+and sent off at once to let the chief at Pambe know of our arrival. We
+heard the cocks crowing up there in the mountain as we passed in the
+morning. Chimuna came in the evening, and begged me to remain a day in
+his village, Pamaloa, as he was the greatest chief the Chipeta had. I
+told him all wished the same thing, and if I listened to each chief we
+should never get on, and the rains were near, but we had to stay over
+with him.
+
+_26th October, 1866._--All the people came down to-day from Pambe, and
+crowded to see the strangers. They know very little beyond their own
+affairs, though these require a good deal of knowledge, and we should
+be sorely put about if, without their skill, we had to maintain an
+existence here. Their furnaces are rather bottle shaped, and about
+seven feet high by three broad. One toothless patriarch had heard of
+books and umbrellas, but had never seen either. The oldest inhabitant
+had never travelled far from the spot in which he was born, yet he has
+a good knowledge of soils and agriculture, hut-building,
+basket-making, pottery, and the manufacture of bark-cloth and skins
+for clothing, as also making of nets, traps, and cordage.
+
+Chimuna had a most ungainly countenance, yet did well enough: he was
+very thankful for a blister on his loins to ease rheumatic pains, and
+presented a huge basket of porridge before starting, with a fowl, and
+asked me to fire a gun that the Mazitu might hear and know that armed
+men were here. They all say that these marauders flee from fire-arms,
+so I think that they are not Zulus at all, though adopting some of
+their ways.
+
+In going on to Mapuio's we passed several large villages, each
+surrounded by the usual euphorbia hedge, and having large trees for
+shade. We are on & level, or rather gently amdulating country, rather
+bare of trees. At the junctions of these earthen waves we have always
+an oozing bog, this often occurs in the slope down the trough of this
+terrestrial sea; bushes are common, and of the kind which were cut
+down as trees. Yellow haematite is very abundant, but the other rocks
+scarcely appear in the distance; we have mountains both on the east
+and west.
+
+On arriving at Mapuio's village, he was, as often happens, invisible,
+but he sent us a calabash of fresh-made beer, which is very
+refreshing, gave us a hut, and promised to cook for us in the evening.
+We have to employ five or six carriers, and they rule the length of
+the day's march. Those from Chimuna's village growled at the cubit of
+calico with which we paid them, but a few beads pleased them
+perfectly, and we parted good friends. It is not likely I shall ever
+see them again, but I always like to please them, because it is right
+to consider their desires. Is that not what is meant in "Blessed is he
+that considereth the poor"? There is a great deal of good in these
+poor people. In cases of _milando_ they rely on the most distant
+relations and connections to plead their cause, and seldom are they
+disappointed, though time at certain seasons, as for instance at
+present, is felt by all to be precious. Every man appears with hoe or
+axe on shoulder, and the people often only sit down as we pass and
+gaze at us till we are out of sight.
+
+[Illustration: Women's Teeth hollowed.]
+
+Many of the men have large slits in the lobe of the ear, and they have
+their distinctive tribal tattoo. The women indulge in this painful
+luxury more than the men, probably because they have very few
+ornaments. The two central front teeth are hollowed at the cutting
+edge. Many have quite the Grecian facial angle. Mapuio has thin legs
+and quite a European face. Delicate features and limbs are common, and
+the spur-heel is as scarce as among Europeans; small feet and hands
+are the rule.
+
+Clapping the hands in various ways is the polite way of saying "Allow
+me," "I beg pardon," "Permit me to pass," "Thanks," it is resorted to
+in respectful introduction and leave-taking, and also is equivalent to
+"Hear hear." When inferiors are called they respond by two brisk claps
+of the hands, meaning "I am coming." They are very punctilious amongst
+each other. A large ivory bracelet marks the headman of a village;
+there is nothing else to show differences of rank.
+
+_28th October, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Mapuio's and had a long talk
+with him; his country is in a poor state from the continual incursions
+of the Mazitu, who are wholly unchecked.
+
+_29th October, 1866._--We marched westwards to Makosa's village, and
+could not go further, as the next stage is long and through an
+ill-peopled country. The morning was lovely, the whole country bathed
+in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air disturbed the smoke as it
+slowly curled up from the heaps of burning weeds, which the native
+agriculturist wisely destroys. The people generally were busy hoeing
+in the cool of the day. One old man in a village where we rested had
+trained the little hair he had left into a tail, which, well plastered
+with fat, he had bent on itself and laid flat on his crown; another
+was carefully paring a stick for stirring the porridge, and others
+were enjoying the cool shade of the wild fig-trees which are always
+planted at villages. It is a sacred tree all over Africa and India,
+and the tender roots which drop down towards the ground are used as
+medicine--a universal remedy. Can it be a tradition of its being like
+the tree of life, which Archbishop Whately conjectures may have been
+used in Paradise to render man immortal? One kind of fig-tree is often
+seen hacked all over to get the sap, which is used as bird-lime;
+bark-cloth is made of it too. I like to see the men weaving or
+spinning, or reclining under these glorious canopies, as much as I
+love to see our more civilized people lolling on their sofas or
+ottomans.
+
+The first rain--a thunder shower--fell in the afternoon, air in shade
+before it 92 deg.; wet bulb 74 deg. At noon the soil in the sun was 140
+deg., perhaps more, but I was afraid of bursting the thermometer, as it
+was graduated only a few degrees above that. This rain happened at the
+same time that the sun was directly overhead on his way south; it was
+but a quarter of an inch, but its effect was to deprive us of all
+chance of getting the five carriers we needed, all were off to their
+gardens to commit the precious seed to the soil. We got three, but no
+one else would come, so we have to remain here over to-day (30th
+October).
+
+_30th October, 1866._--The black traders come from Tette to this
+country to buy slaves, and as a consequence here we come to bugs
+again, which we left when we passed the Arab slave-traders' beat.
+
+_31st October, 1866._--We proceed westwards, and a little south
+through a country covered with forest trees, thickly planted, but
+small, generally of bark-cloth and gum-copal trees, masukos,
+rhododendrons, and a few acacias. At one place we saw ten wild hogs in
+a group, but no other animal, though marks of elephants, buffaloes,
+and other animals having been about in the wet season were very
+abundant. The first few miles were rather more scant of water than
+usual, but we came to the Leue, a fine little stream with plenty of
+water sand from 20 to 30 yards wide; it is said by the people to flow
+away westwards into the Loangwa.
+
+_1st November 1866._--In the evening we made the Chigumokire, a nice
+rivulet, where we slept, and the next morning we proceeded to Kangene,
+whose village is situated on a mass of mountains, and to reach which
+we made more southing than we wished. Our appearance on the ascent of
+the hill caused alarm, and we were desired to wait till our spokesman
+had explained the unusual phenomenon of a white man.
+
+This kept us waiting in the hot sun among heated rocks, and the chief,
+being a great ugly public-house-keeper looking person, excused his
+incivility by saying that his brother had been killed by the Mazitu,
+and he was afraid that we were of the same tribe. On asking if Mazitu
+wore clothes like us he told some untruths, and, what has been an
+unusual thing, began to beg powder and other things. I told him how
+other chiefs had treated us, which made him ashamed. He represented
+the country in front to the N.W. to be quite impassable from want of
+food: the Mazitu had stripped it of all provisions, and the people
+were living on what wild fruits they could pick up.
+
+_2nd November, 1866._--Kangene is very disagreeable naturally, and as
+we have to employ five men as carriers, we are in his power.
+
+We can scarcely enter into the feelings of those who are harried by
+marauders. Like Scotland in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries
+harassed by Highland Celts on one side and by English Marchmen on the
+other, and thus kept in the rearward of civilisation, these people
+have rest neither for many days nor for few. When they fill their
+garners they can seldom reckon on eating the grain, for the Mazitu
+come when the harvest is over and catch as many able-bodied young
+persons as they can to carry away the corn. Thus it was in Scotland so
+far as security for life and property was concerned; but the Scotch
+were apt pupils of more fortunate nations. To change of country they
+were as indifferent as the Romans of the olden times; they were always
+welcome in France, either as pilgrims, scholars, merchants, or
+soldiers; but the African is different. If let alone the African's
+mode of life is rather enjoyable; he loves agriculture, and land is to
+be had anywhere. He knows nothing of other countries, but he has
+imbibed the idea of property in man. This Kangene told me that he
+would like to give me a slave to look after my goats: I believe he
+would rather give a slave than a goat!
+
+We were detained by the illness of Simon for four days. When he
+recovered we proposed to the headman to start with five of his men,
+and he agreed to let us have them; but having called them together
+such an enormous demand was made for wages, and in advance, that on
+the 7th of November we took seven loads forward through a level
+uninhabited country generally covered with small trees, slept there,
+and on the morning of the 8th, after leaving two men at our depot,
+came back, and took the remaining five loads.
+
+Kangene was disagreeable to the last. He asked where we had gone,
+and, having described the turning point as near the hill Chimbimbe, he
+complimented us on going so far, and then sent an offer of three men;
+but I preferred not to have those who would have been spies unless he
+could give five and take on all the loads. He said that he would find
+the number, and after detaining us some hours brought two, one of
+whom, primed with beer, babbled out that he was afraid of being killed
+by us in front. I asked whom we had killed behind, and moved off. The
+headman is very childish, does women's work--cooking and pounding; and
+in all cases of that kind the people take after their leader. The
+chiefs have scarcely any power unless they are men of energy; they
+have to court the people rather than be courted. We came much further
+back on our way from Mapuio's than we liked; in fact, our course is
+like that of a vessel baffled with foul winds: this is mainly owing to
+being obliged to avoid places stripped of provisions or suffering this
+spoliation. The people, too, can give no information about others at a
+distance from their own abodes. Even the smiths, who are a most
+plodding set of workers, are as ignorant as the others: they supply
+the surrounding villages with hoes and knives, and, combining
+agriculture with handicraft, pass through life. An intelligent smith
+came as our guide from Chimbimbe Hill on the 7th, and did not know a
+range of mountains about twenty miles off: "it was too far off for him
+to know the name."
+
+_9th November, 1866._--The country over which we actually travel is
+level and elevated, but there are mountains all about, which when put
+on the map make it appear to be a mountainous region. We are on the
+watershed, apparently between the Loangwa of Zumbo on the west, and
+the Lake on the east. The Leue or Leuia is said by the people to flow
+into the Loangwa. The Chigumokire coming from the north in front,
+eastward of Irongwe (the same mountains on which Kangene skulks out of
+sight of Mazitu), flows into the Leue, and north of that we have the
+Mando, a little stream, flowing into the Bua. The rivulets on the west
+flow in deep defiles, and the elevation on which we travel makes it
+certain that no water can come from the lower lands on the west. It
+seems that the Portuguese in travelling to Casembe did not inquire of
+the people where the streams they crossed went, for they are often
+wrongly put, and indicate the direction only in which they appeared to
+be flowing at their crossing places. The natives have a good idea
+generally of the rivers into which the streams flow, though they are
+very deficient in information as to the condition of the people that
+live on their banks. Some of the Portuguese questions must have been
+asked through slaves, who would show no hesitation in answering.
+Maxinga, or Machinga, means "mountains" only; once or twice it is put
+down Saxa de Maxinga, or Machinga, or Mcanga, which translated from
+the native tongue means "rocks of mountains, or mountains of rocks."
+
+_10th November, 1866._--We found the people on the Mando to be Chawa
+or Ajawa, but not of the Waiyau race: they are Manganja, and this is a
+village of smiths. We got five men readily to go back and bring up our
+loads; and the sound of the hammer is constant, showing a great deal
+of industry. They combine agriculture, and hunting with nets, with
+their handicraft.
+
+A herd of buffaloes came near the village, and I went and shot one,
+thus procuring a supply of meat for the whole party and villagers too.
+The hammer which we hear from dawn till sunset is a large stone, bound
+with the strong inner bark of a tree, and loops left which form
+handles. Two pieces of bark form the tongs, and a big stone sunk into
+the ground the anvil. They make several hoes in a day, and the metal
+is very good; it is all from yellow haematite, which abounds all over
+this part of the country; the bellows consist of two goatskins with
+sticks at the open ends, which are opened and shut at every blast.
+
+[Illustration: Forging Hoes.]
+
+_13th November, 1866._--A lion came last night and gave a growl or two
+on finding he could not get our meat: a man had lent us a hunting net
+to protect it and us from intruders of this sort. The people kept up a
+shouting for hours afterwards, in order to keep him away by the human
+voice.
+
+We might have gone on, but I had a galled heel from new shoes. Wild
+figs are rather nice when quite ripe.
+
+_14th November, 1866._--We marched northwards round the end of Chisia
+Hill, and remained for the night at a blacksmith's, or rather
+founder's village; the two occupations of founder and smith are
+always united, and boys taught to be smiths in Europe or India would
+find themselves useless if unable to smelt the ore. A good portion of
+the trees of the country have been cut down for charcoal, and those
+which now spring up are small; certain fruit trees alone are left. The
+long slopes on the undulating country, clothed with fresh foliage,
+look very beautiful. The young trees alternate with patches of yellow
+grass not yet burned; the hills are covered with a thick mantle of
+small green trees with, as usual, large ones at intervals. The people
+at Kalumbi, on the Mando (where we spent four days), had once a
+stockade of wild fig _(Ficus Indica)_ and euphorbia round their
+village, which has a running rill on each side of it; but the trees
+which enabled them to withstand a siege by Mazitu fell before
+elephants and buffaloes during a temporary absence of the villagers;
+the remains of the stockade are all around it yet. Lions sometimes
+enter huts by breaking through the roof: elephants certainly do, for
+we saw a roof destroyed by one; the only chance for the inmates is to
+drive a spear into the belly of the beast while so engaged.
+
+A man came and reported the Mazitu to be at Chanyandula's village,
+where we are going. The headman advised remaining at his village till
+we saw whether they came this way or went by another path. The women
+were sent away, but the men went on with their employments; two
+proceeded with the building of a furnace on an anthill, where they are
+almost always placed, and they keep a look-out while working. We have
+the protection of an all-embracing Providence, and trust that He,
+whose care of His people "xceeds all that our utmost self-love can
+attain, will shield us and make our way prosperous.
+
+_16th November, 1866._--An elephant came near enough last night to
+scream at us, but passed on, warned, perhaps, by the shouting of the
+villagers not to meddle with man. No Mazitu having come, we marched on
+and crossed the Bua, eight yards wide and knee deep. It rises in the
+northern hills a little beyond Kanyindula's village, winds round his
+mountains, and away to the east. The scenery among the mountains is
+very lovely: they are covered with a close mantle of green, with here
+and there red and light-coloured patches, showing where grass has been
+burned off recently and the red clay soil is exposed; the lighter
+portions are unburned grass or rocks. Large trees are here more
+numerous, and give an agreeable change of contour to the valleys and
+ridges of the hills; the boughs of many still retain a tinge of red
+from young leaves. We came to the Bua again before reaching Kanyenje,
+as Kanyindula's place is called. The iron trade must have been carried
+on for an immense time in the country, for one cannot go a quarter of
+a mile without meeting pieces of slag and broken pots, calcined pipes,
+and fragments of the furnaces, which are converted by the fire into
+brick. It is curious that the large stone sledge-hammers now in use
+are not called by the name stone-hammers, but by a distinct word,
+"kama:" nyundo is one made of iron.
+
+When we arrived at Kanyenje, Kanyindula was out collecting charcoal.
+He sent a party of men to ask if we should remain next day: an old,
+unintellectual-looking man was among the number sent, who had
+twenty-seven rings of elephant's skin on his arm, all killed by
+himself by the spear alone: he had given up fighting elephants since
+the Mazitu came, whom we heard had passed away to the south-east of
+this place, taking all the crops of last year, and the chief alone has
+food. He gave us some, which was very acceptable, as we got none at
+the two villages south of this. Kanyindula came himself in the
+evening, an active, stern-looking man, but we got on very well with
+him.
+
+The people say that they were taught to smelt iron by Chisumpi, which
+is the name of Mulungu (God), and that they came from Lake Nyassa
+originally; if so, they are greatly inferior to the Manganja on the
+Lake in pottery, for the fragments, as well as modern whole vessels,
+are very coarse; the ornamentation is omitted or merely dots. They
+never heard of aerolites, but know hail.
+
+I notice here that the tree Mfu, or Moe, having sweet-scented leaves,
+yields an edible plum in clusters. Bua-bwa is another edible
+fruit-tree with palmated leaves.
+
+Mbeu is a climbing, arboraceous plant, and yields a very pleasant
+fruit, which tastes like gooseberries: its seeds are very minute.
+
+_18th and 19th November, 1866._--Rain fell heavily yesterday
+afternoon, and was very threatening to-day; we remain to sew a calico
+tent.
+
+_20th November, 1866._--Kanyindula came with three carriers this
+morning instead of five, and joined them in demanding prepayment: it
+was natural for him to side with them, as they have more power than he
+has, in fact, the chiefs in these parts all court their people, and he
+could feel more interest in them than in an entire stranger whom he
+might never see again: however, we came on without his people, leaving
+two to guard the loads.
+
+About four miles up the valley we came to a village named Kanyenjere
+Mponda, at the fountain-eye of the Bua, and thence sent men back for
+the loads, while we had the shelter of good huts during a heavy
+thunder-shower, and made us willing to remain all night. The valley is
+lovely in the extreme. The mountains on each side are gently rounded,
+and, as usual, covered over with tree foliage, except where the red
+soil is exposed by recent grass-burnings. Quartz rocks jut out, and
+much drift of that material has been carried down by the gullies into
+the bottom. These gullies being in compact clay, the water has but
+little power of erosion, so they are worn deep but narrow. Some
+fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with haematite changed by heat,
+and magnetic, lay in the gully, which had worn itself a channel on
+the north side of the village. The Bua, like most African streams
+whose sources I have seen, rises in an oozing boggy spot. Another
+stream, the Tembwe, rises near the same spot, and flows N.W. into, the
+Loangwa. We saw Shuare palms in its bed.
+
+_21st November, 1866._--We left Bua fountain, lat. 13 deg. 40' south, and
+made a short march to Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the people
+refused to admit us till the headman, came. They have a little food
+here, and sold us some. We have been on rather short commons for some
+time, and this made our detention agreeable. We rose a little in
+altitude after leaving this morning, then, though in the same valley,
+made a little descent towards the N.N.W. High winds came driving over
+the eastern range, which is called Mchinje, and bring large masses of
+clouds, which are the rain-givers. They seem to come from the
+south-east. The scenery of the valley is lovely and rich in the
+extreme. All the foliage is fresh washed and clean; young herbage is
+bursting through the ground; the air is deliciously cool, and the
+birds are singing joyfully: one, called Mzie, is a good songster, with
+a loud melodious voice. Large game abounds, but we do not meet with
+it.
+
+We are making our way slowly to the north, where food is said to be
+abundant. I divided about 50 lbs. of powder among the people of my
+following to shoot with, and buy goats or other food as we could. This
+reduces our extra loads to three--four just now, Simon being sick
+again. He rubbed goat's-fat on a blistered surface, and caused an
+eruption of pimples.
+
+_Mem._--The people assent by lifting up the head instead of nodding it
+down as we do; deaf mutes are said to do the same.
+
+_22nd November, 1866._--Leaving Mokatoba village, and proceeding down
+the valley, which on the north is shut up apparently by a mountain
+called Kokwe, we crossed the Kasamba, about two miles from Mokatoba,
+and yet found it, though so near its source, four yards wide, and knee
+deep. Its source is about a mile above Mokatoba, in the same valley,
+with the Bua and Tembwe. We were told that elephants were near, and we
+saw where they had been an hour before; but after seeking about could
+not find them. An old man, in the deep defile between Kokwe and Yasika
+Mountains, pointed to the latter, and said, "Elephants! why, there
+they are. Elephants, or tusks, walking on foot are never absent;" but
+though we were eager for flesh, we could not give him credit, and went
+down the defile which gives rise to the Sandili River: where we
+crossed it in the defile, it was a mere rill, having large trees along
+its banks, yet it is said to go to the Loangwa of Zumbo, N.W. or
+N.N.W. We were now in fact upon the slope which inclines to that
+river, and made a rapid descent in altitude. We reached Silubi's
+village, on the base of a rocky detached hill. No food to be had; all
+taken by Mazitu, so Silubi gave me some Masuko fruit instead. They
+find that they can keep the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence,
+and hurling stones and arrows down on the invaders: they can defend
+themselves also by stockades, and these are becoming very general.
+
+On leaving Silubi's village, we went to a range of hills, and after
+passing through found that we had a comparatively level country on the
+north: it would be called a well-wooded country if we looked at it
+only from a distance. It is formed into long ridges, all green and
+wooded; but clumps of large trees, where villages have been, or are
+still situated, show that the sylvan foliage around and over the whole
+country is that of mere hop-poles. The whole of this upland region
+might be called woody, if we bear in mind that where the population is
+dense, and has been long undisturbed, the trees are cut down to the
+size of low bush. Large districts are kept to about the size of
+hop-poles, growing on pollards three or four feet from the ground, by
+charcoal burners, who, in all instances, are smiths too.
+
+On reaching Zeore's village, on the Lokuzhwa, we found it stockaded,
+and stagnant pools round three sides of it. The Mazitu had come,
+pillaged all the surrounding villages, looked at this, and then went
+away; so the people had food to sell. They here call themselves
+Echewa, and have a different marking from the Atumboka. The men have
+the hair dressed as if a number of the hairs of elephants' tails were
+stuck around the head: the women wear a small lip-ring, and a straw or
+piece of stick in the lower lip, which dangles down about level with
+the lower edge of the chin: their clothing in front is very scanty.
+The men know nothing of distant places, the Manganja being a very
+stay-at-home people. The stockades are crowded with huts, and the
+children have but small room to play in the narrow spaces between.
+
+_25th November, 1866._--Sunday at Zeore's. The villagers thought we
+prayed for rain, which was much needed. The cracks in the soil have
+not yet come together by the "welling of soil produced by moisture. I
+disabused their minds about rain-making prayers, and found the headman
+intelligent.
+
+I did not intend to notice the Lokuzhwa, it is such a contemptible
+little rill, and not at present running; but in going to our next
+point, Mpande's village, we go along its valley, and cross it several
+times, as it makes for the Loangwa in the north. The valley is of rich
+dark red loam, and so many lilies of the Amaryllis kind have
+established themselves as completely to mask the colour of the soil.
+They form a covering of pure white where the land has been cleared by
+the hoe. As we go along this valley to the Loangwa, we descend in
+altitude. It is said to rise at "Nombe rume," as we formerly heard.
+
+_27th November, 1866._--Zeore's people would not carry without
+prepayment, so we left our extra loads as usual and went on, sending
+men back for them: these, however, did not come till 27th, and then
+two of my men got fever. I groan in spirit, and do not know how to
+make our gear into nine loads only. It is the knowledge that we shall
+be detained, some two or three months during the heavy rains that
+makes me cleave to it as means of support.
+
+Advantage has been taken by the people, of spots where the Lokuzhwa
+goes round three parts of a circle, to erect their stockaded villages.
+This is the case here, and the water, being stagnant, engenders
+disease. The country abounds in a fine light blue flowering perennial
+pea, which the people make use of as a relish. At present the blossoms
+only are collected and boiled. On inquiring the name, _chilobe_, the
+men asked me if we had none in our country. On replying in the
+negative, they looked with pity on us: "What a wretched, country not
+to have chilobe." It is on the highlands above; we never saw it
+elsewhere! Another species of pea _(Chilobe Weza)_, with reddish
+flowers, is eaten in the same way; but it has spread but little in
+comparison. It is worth remarking that porridge of maize or sorghum is
+never offered without some pulse, beans, or bean leaves, or flowers,
+they seem to feel the need of it, or of pulse, which is richer in
+flesh-formers than the porridge.
+
+Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was followed by several
+half-suppressed screams by a woman. They were quite _eldritch_, as if
+she could not get them out. Then succeeded a lot of utterances as if
+she were in ecstasy, to which a man responded, "Moio, moio." The
+utterances, so far as I could catch, were in five-syllable
+snatches--abrupt and laboured. I wonder if this "bubbling or boiling
+over" has been preserved as the form in which the true prophets of old
+gave forth their "burdens"? One sentence, frequently repeated towards
+the close of the effusion, was "_linyama uta_," "flesh of the bow,"
+showing that the Pythoness loved venison killed by the bow. The people
+applauded, and attended, hoping, I suppose, that rain would follow her
+efforts. Next day she was duly honoured by drumming and dancing.[35]
+
+Prevalent beliefs seem to be persistent in certain tribes. That
+strange idea of property in man that permits him to be sold to another
+is among the Arabs, Manganja, Makoa, Waiyau, but not among Kaffirs or
+Zulus, and Bechuanas. If we exclude the Arabs, two families of
+Africans alone are slavers on the east side of the Continent.
+
+_30th November, 1866._--We march to Chilunda's or Embora's, still on
+the Lokuzhwa, now a sand-stream about twenty yards wide, with pools in
+its bed; its course is pretty much north or N.N.W. We are now near the
+Loangwa country, covered with a dense dwarf forest, and the people
+collected in stockades. This village is on a tongue of land (between
+Lokuzhwa and another sluggish rivulet), chosen for its strength. It is
+close to a hill named Chipemba, and there are ranges of hills both
+east and west in the distance. Embora came to visit us soon after we
+arrived--a tall man with a Yankee face. He was very much tickled when
+asked if he were a Motumboka. After indulging in laughter at the idea
+of being one of such a small tribe of Manganja, he said proudly, "That
+he belonged to the Echewa, who inhabited all the country to which I
+was going." They are generally smiths; a mass of iron had just been
+brought in to him from some outlying furnaces. It is made into hoes,
+which are sold for native cloths down the Loangwa.
+
+_3rd December, 1866._--March through a hilly country covered with
+dwarf forest to Kande's village, still on the Lokuzhwa. We made some
+westing. The village was surrounded by a dense hedge of bamboo and a
+species of bushy fig that loves edges of water-bearing streams: it is
+not found where the moisture is not perennial. Kande is a fine tall
+smith; I asked him if he knew his antecedents; he said he had been
+bought by Babisa at Chipeta, and left at Chilunda's, and therefore
+belonged to no one. Two Waiyau now volunteered to go on with us, and
+as they declared their masters were killed by the Mazitu, and Kande
+seemed to confirm them, we let them join. In general, runaway slaves
+are bad characters, but these two seem good men, and we want them to
+fill up our complement: another volunteer we employ as goatherd.
+
+A continuous tap-tapping in the villages shows that bark cloth is
+being made. The bark, on being removed from the-tree, is steeped in
+water, or in a black muddy hole, till the outer of the two inner barks
+can be separated, then commences the tapping with a mallet to separate
+and soften the fibres. The head of this is often of ebony, with the
+face cut into small furrows, which, without breaking, separate and
+soften the fibres.
+
+[Illustration.]
+
+_4th December, 1866._--Marched westwards, over a hilly, dwarf
+forest-covered country: as we advanced, trees increased in size, but
+no people inhabited it; we spent a miserable night at Katette, wetted
+by a heavy thunder-shower, which lasted a good while. Morning _(5th
+December_) muggy, clouded all over, and rolling thunder in distance.
+Went three hours with, for a wonder, no water, but made westing
+chiefly, and got on to the Lokuzhwa again: all the people are
+collected on it.
+
+_6th December, 1866._--Too ill to march.
+
+_7th December, 1866._--Went on, and passed Mesumbe's village, also
+protected by bamboos, and came to the hill Mparawe, with a village
+perched on its northern base and well up its sides. The Babisa have
+begun to imitate the Mazitu by attacking and plundering Manganja
+villages. Muasi's brother was so attacked, and now is here and eager
+to attack in return. In various villages we have observed miniature
+huts, about two feet high, very neatly thatched and plastered, here we
+noticed them in dozens. On inquiring, we were told that when a child
+or relative dies one is made, and when any pleasant food is cooked or
+beer brewed, a little is placed in the tiny hut for the departed soul,
+which is believed to enjoy it.
+
+The Lokuzhwa is here some fifty yards wide, and running. Numerous
+large pitholes in the fine-grained schist in its bed show that much
+water has flowed in it.
+
+_8th December, 1866._--A kind of bean called "chitetta" is eaten here,
+it is an old acquaintance in the Bechuana country, where it is called
+"mositsane," and is a mere plant; here it becomes a tree, from fifteen
+to twenty feet high. The root is used for tanning; the bean is
+pounded, and then put into a sieve of bark cloth to extract, by
+repeated washings, the excessively astringent matter it contains.
+Where the people have plenty of water, as here, it is used copiously
+in various processes, among Bechuanas it is scarce, and its many uses
+unknown: the pod becomes from fifteen to eighteen inches long, and an
+inch in diameter.
+
+_9th December, 1866._--A poor child, whose mother had died, was
+unprovided for; no one not a relative will nurse another's child. It
+called out piteously for its mother by name, and the women (like the
+servants in the case of the poet Cowper when a child), said, "She is
+coming." I gave it a piece of bread, but it was too far gone, and is
+dead to-day.
+
+An alarm of Mazitu sent all the villagers up the sides of Mparawe
+this morning. The affair was a chase of a hyaena, but everything is
+Mazitu! The Babisa came here, but were surrounded and nearly all cut
+off. Muasi was so eager to be off with a party to return the attack on
+the Mazitu, that, when deputed by the headman to give us a guide, he
+got the man to turn at the first village, so we had to go on without
+guides, and made about due north.
+
+_11th December, 1866._--We are now detained in the forest, at a place
+called Chonde Forest, by set-in rains. It rains every day, and
+generally in the afternoon; but the country is not wetted till the
+"set-in" rains commence; the cracks in the soil then fill up and
+everything rushes up with astonishing rapidity; the grass is quite
+crisp and soft. After the fine-grained schist, we came on granite with
+large flakes of talc in it. This forest is of good-sized trees, many
+of them mopane. The birds now make much melody and noise--all intent
+on building.
+
+_12th December, 1866._--Across an undulating forest country north we
+got a man to show us the way, if a pathless forest can so be called.
+We used a game-path as long as it ran north, but left it when it
+deviated, and rested under a baobab-tree with a marabou's nest--a
+bundle of sticks on a branch; the young ones uttered a hard chuck,
+chuck, when the old ones flew over them. A sun-bird, with bright
+scarlet throat and breast, had its nest on another branch, it was
+formed like the weaver's nest, but without a tube. I observed the dam
+picking out insects from the bark and leaves of the baobab, keeping on
+the wing the while: it would thus appear to be insectivorous as well
+as a honey-bibber. Much spoor of elands, zebras, gnus, kamas, pallahs,
+buffaloes, reed-bucks, with tsetse, their parasites.
+
+_13th December, 1866._--Reached the Tokosusi, which is said to rise at
+Nombe Rume, about twenty yards wide and knee deep, swollen by the
+rains: it had left a cake of black tenacious mud on its banks. Here I
+got a pallah antelope, and a very strange flower called "katende,"
+which was a whorl of seventy-two flowers sprung from a flat, round
+root; but it cannot be described. Our guide would have crossed the
+Tokosusi, which was running north-west to join the Loangwa, and then
+gone to that river; but always when we have any difficulty the
+"lazies" exhibit themselves. We had no grain; and three remained
+behind spending four hours at what we did in an hour and a quarter.
+Our guide became tired and turned, not before securing another; but he
+would not go over the Loangwa; no one likes to go out of his own
+country: he would go westwards to Maranda's, and nowhere else. A
+"set-in" rain came on after dark, and we went on through slush, the
+trees sending down heavier drops than the showers as we neared the
+Loangwa; we forded several deep gullies, all flowing north or
+north-west into it. The paths were running with water, and when we
+emerged from the large Mopane Forest, we came on the plain of
+excessively adhesive mud, on which Maranda's stronghold stands on the
+left bank of Loangwa, here a good-sized river. The people were all
+afraid of us, and we were mortified to find that food is scarce. The
+Mazitu have been here three times, and the fear they have inspired,
+though they were successfully repelled, has prevented agricultural
+operations from being carried on.
+
+_Mem._--A flake of reed is often used in surgical operations among the
+natives, as being sharper than their knives.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[34] A cloth means two yards of unbleached calico.
+
+[35] Chuma remembers part of the words of her song to be as follows:--
+
+Kowe! kowe! n'andambwi, M'vula leru, korole ko okwe, Waie, ona, kordi,
+mvula!
+
+He cannot translate it as it is pure Manganja, but with the exception
+of the first line--which relates to a little song-bird with a
+beautiful note, it is a mere reiteration "rain will surely come
+to-day."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great
+    hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats.
+    Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again.
+    Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the
+    great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out.
+    Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambeze. Death of
+    Chitane. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine
+    chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambeze. Beaches
+    Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off
+    letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications.
+
+
+_16th December, 1866._--We could get no food at any price on 15th, so
+we crossed the Loangwa, and judged it to be from seventy to a hundred
+yards wide: it is deep at present, and it must always be so, for some
+Atumboka submitted to the Mazitu, and ferried them over and back
+again. The river is said to rise in the north; it has alluvial banks
+with large forest trees along them, bottom sandy, and great sandbanks
+are in it like the Zambesi. No guide would come, so we went on without
+one. The "lazies" of the party seized the opportunity of remaining
+behind--wandering, as they said, though all the cross paths were
+marked.[36] This evening we secured the latitude 12 deg. 40' 48" S., which
+would make our crossing place about 12 deg. 45' S. Clouds prevented
+observations, as they usually do in the rainy season.
+
+_17 December, 1866._--We went on through a bushy country without
+paths, and struck the Pamazi, a river of sixty yards wide, in steep
+banks and in flood, and held on as well as we could through a very
+difficult country, the river forcing us north-west: I heard
+hippopotami in it. Game is abundant but wild; we shot two poku
+antelopes[37] here, called "tsebulas," which drew a hunter to us, who
+consented for meat and pay to show us a ford. He said that the Pamazi
+rises in a range of mountains we can now see (in general we could see
+no high ground during our marches for the last fortnight), we forded
+it, thigh deep on one side and breast deep on the other. We made only
+about three miles of northing, and found the people on the left bank
+uncivil: they would not lend a hut, so we soon put up a tent of
+waterproof cloth and branches.
+
+_18th December, 1866._--As the men grumbled at their feet being
+pierced by thorns in the trackless portions we had passed I was
+anxious to get a guide, but the only one we could secure would go to
+Molenga's only; so I submitted, though this led us east instead of
+north. When we arrived we were asked what we wanted, seeing we brought
+neither slaves nor ivory: I replied it was much against our will that
+we came; but the guide had declared that this was the only way to
+Casembe's, our next stage. To get rid of us they gave a guide, and we
+set forward northwards. The Mopane Forest is perfectly level, and
+after rains the water stands in pools; but during most of the year it
+is dry. The trees here were very large, and planted some twenty or
+thirty yards apart: as there are no branches on their lower parts
+animals see very far. I shot a gnu, but wandered in coming back to the
+party, and did not find them till it was getting dark. Many parts of
+the plain are thrown up into heaps, of about the size of one's cap
+(probably by crabs), which now, being hard, are difficult to walk
+over; under the trees it is perfectly smooth. The Mopane-tree
+furnishes the iron wood of the Portuguese Pao Ferro: it is pretty to
+travel in and look at the bright sunshine of early morning; but the
+leaves hang perpendicularly as the sun rises high, and afford little
+or no shade through the day,[38] so as the land is clayey, it becomes
+hard-baked thereby.
+
+We observed that the people had placed corn-granaries at
+different parts of this forest, and had been careful to leave no
+track to them--a provision in case of further visits of Mazitu.
+King-hunters[39] abound, and make the air resound with their
+stridulous notes, which commence with a sharp, shrill cheep, and then
+follows a succession of notes, which resembles a pea in a whistle.
+Another bird is particularly conspicuous at present by its chattering
+activity, its nest consists of a bundle of fine seed-stalks of grass
+hung at the end of a branch, the free ends being left untrimmed, and
+no attempt at concealment made. Many other birds are now active, and
+so many new notes are heard, that it is probable this is a richer
+ornithological region than the Zambesi. Guinea-fowl and francolins are
+in abundance, and so indeed are all the other kinds of game, as
+zebras, pallahs, gnus.
+
+_19th December, 1866._--I got a fine male kudu. We have no grain, and
+live on meat alone, but I am better off than the men, inasmuch as I
+get a little goat's-milk besides. The kudu stood five feet six inches
+high; horns, three feet on the straight.
+
+_20th December, 1866._--Reached Casembe,[40] a miserable hamlet of a
+few huts. The people here are very suspicious, and will do nothing but
+with a haggle for prepayment; we could get no grain, nor even native
+herbs, though we rested a day to try.
+
+After a short march we came to the Nyamazi, another considerable
+rivulet coming from the north to fall into the Loangwa. It has the
+same character, of steep alluvial banks, as Pamazi, and about the same
+width, but much shallower; loin deep, though somewhat swollen; from
+fifty to sixty yards wide. We came to some low hills, of coarse
+sandstone, and on crossing these we could see, by looking back, that
+for many days we had been travelling over a perfectly level valley,
+clothed with a mantle of forest. The barometers had shown no
+difference of level from about 1800 feet above the sea. We began our
+descent into this great valley when we left the source of the Bua; and
+now these low hills, called Ngale or Ngaloa, though only 100 feet or
+so above the level we had left, showed that we had come to the shore
+of an ancient lake, which probably was let off when the rent of
+Kebra-basa on the Zambesi was made, for we found immense banks of
+well-rounded shingle above--or, rather, they may be called mounds of
+shingle--all of hard silicious schist with a few pieces of fossil-wood
+among them. The gullies reveal a stratum of this well-rounded shingle,
+lying on a soft greenish sandstone, which again lies on the coarse
+sandstone first observed. This formation is identical with that
+observed formerly below the Victoria Falls. We have the mountains
+still on our north and north-west (the so-called mountains of Bisa, or
+Babisa), and from them the Nyamazi flows, while Pamazi comes round the
+end, or what appears to be the end, of the higher portion. _(22nd
+December, 1866.)_ Shot a bush-buck; and slept on the left bank of
+Nyamazi.
+
+_23rd December, 1866._--Hunger sent us on; for a meat diet is far from
+satisfying: we all felt very weak on it, and soon tired on a march,
+but to-day we hurried on to Kavimba, who successfully beat off the
+Mazitu. It is very hot, and between three and four hours is a good
+day's march. On sitting down to rest before entering the village we
+were observed, and all the force of the village issued to kill us as
+Mazitu, but when we stood up the mistake was readily perceived, and
+the arrows were placed again in their quivers. In the hut four Mazitu
+shields show that they did not get it all their own way; they are
+miserable imitations of Zulu shields, made of eland and water-buck's
+hides, and ill sewn.
+
+A very small return present was made by Kavimba, and nothing could be
+bought except at exorbitant prices. We remained all day on the 24th
+haggling and trying to get some grain. He took a fancy to a shirt, and
+left it to his wife to bargain for. She got the length of cursing and
+swearing, and we bore it, but could get only a small price for it. We
+resolved to hold our Christmas some other day, and in a better place.
+The women seem ill-regulated here--Kavimba's brother had words with
+his spouse, and at the end of every burst of vociferation on both
+sides called out, "Bring the Muavi! bring the Muavi!" or ordeal.
+
+_Christmas-day, 1866._--No one being willing to guide us to Moerwa's,
+I hinted to Kavimba that should we see a rhinoceros I would kill it.
+He came himself, and led us on where he expected to find these
+animals, but we saw only their footsteps. We lost our four goats
+somewhere--stolen or strayed in the pathless forest, we do not know
+which, but the loss I felt very keenly, for whatever kind of food we
+had, a little milk made all right, and I felt strong and well, but
+coarse food hard of digestion without it was very trying. We spent the
+26th in searching for them, but all in vain. Kavimba had a boy
+carrying two huge elephant spears, with these he attacks that large
+animal single-handed. We parted from him, as I thought, good friends,
+but a man who volunteered to act as guide saw him in the forest
+afterwards, and was counselled by him to leave us as we should not
+pay him. This hovering near us after we parted makes me suspect
+Kavimba of taking the goats, but I am not certain. The loss affected
+me more than I could have imagined. A little indigestible porridge, of
+scarcely any taste, is now my fare, and it makes me dream of better.
+
+_27th December, 1866._--Our guide asked for his cloth to wear on the
+way, as it was wet and raining, and his bark cloth was a miserable
+covering. I consented, and he bolted on the first opportunity; the
+forest being so dense he was soon out of reach of pursuit: he had been
+advised to this by Kavimba, and nothing else need have been expected.
+We then followed the track of a travelling party of Babisa, but the
+grass springs up over the paths, and it was soon lost: the rain had
+fallen early in these parts, and the grass was all in seed. In the
+afternoon we came to the hills in the north where Nyamazi rises, and
+went up the bed of a rivulet for some time, and then ascended out of
+the valley. At the bottom of the ascent and in the rivulet the shingle
+stratum was sometimes fifty feet thick, then as we ascended we met
+mica schist tilted on edge, then grey gneiss, and last an igneous trap
+among quartz rocks, with a great deal of bright mica and talc in them.
+On resting near the top of the first ascent two honey hunters came to
+us. They were using the honey-guide as an aid, the bird came to us as
+they arrived, waited quietly during the half-hour they smoked and
+chatted, and then went on with them.[41]
+
+The tsetse flies, which were very numerous at the bottom, came up the
+ascent with us, but as we increased our altitude by another thousand
+feet they gradually dropped off and left us: only one remained in the
+evening, and he seemed out of spirits. Near sunset we encamped by
+water on the cool height, and made our shelters with boughs of leafy
+trees; mine was rendered perfect by Dr. Stenhouse's invaluable patent
+cloth, which is very superior to mackintosh: indeed the india-rubber
+cloth is not to be named in the same day with it.
+
+_28th December, 1866._--Three men, going to hunt bees, came to us as
+we were starting and assured us that Moerwa's was near. The first
+party had told us the same thing, and so often have we gone long
+distances as "_pafupi_" (near), when in reality they were "_patari_"
+(far), that we begin to think _pafupi_ means "I wish you to go there,"
+and _patari_ the reverse. In this case _near_ meant an hour and
+three-quarters from our sleeping-place to Moerwa's!
+
+When we look back from the height to which we have ascended we see a
+great plain clothed with dark green forest except at the line of
+yellowish grass, where probably the Loangwa flows. On the east and
+south-east this plain is bounded at the extreme range of our vision by
+a wall of dim blue mountains forty or fifty miles off. The Loangwa is
+said to rise in the Chibale country due north of this Malambwe (in
+which district Moerwa's village is situated), and to flow S.E., then
+round to where we found it.
+
+Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man, though he has
+a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, and tried the usual little
+arts of getting us to buy all we need here though the prices are
+exorbitant. "No people in front, great hunger there." "We must buy
+food here and carry it to support us." On asking the names of the next
+headman he would not inform me, till I told him to try and speak like
+a man; he then told us that the first Lobemba chief was Motuna, and
+the next Chafunga. We have nothing, as we saw no animals in our way
+hither, and hunger is ill to bear. By giving Moerwa a good large cloth
+he was induced to cook a mess of maere or millet and elephant's
+stomach; it was so good to get a full meal that I could have given
+him another cloth, and the more so as it was accompanied by a message
+that he would cook more next day and in larger quantity. On inquiring
+next evening he said "the man had told lies," he had cooked nothing
+more: he was prone to lie himself, and was a rather bad specimen of a
+chief.
+
+The Babisa have round bullet heads, snub noses, often high
+cheek-bones, an upward slant of the eyes, and look as if they had a
+lot of Bushman blood in them, and a good many would pass for Bushmen
+or Hottentots. Both Babisa and Waiyau may have a mixture of the race,
+which would account for their roving habits. The women have the
+fashion of exposing the upper part of the buttocks by letting a very
+stiff cloth fall down behind. Their teeth are filed to points, they
+wear no lip-ring, and the hair is parted so as to lie in a net at the
+back part of the head. The mode of salutation among the men is to lie
+down nearly on the back, clapping the hands, and making a rather
+inelegant half-kissing sound with the lips.
+
+_29th December, 1866._--We remain a day at Malambwe, but get nothing
+save a little maere,[42] which grates in the teeth and in the stomach.
+To prevent the Mazitu starving them they cultivate small round patches
+placed at wide intervals in the forest, with which the country is
+covered. The spot, some ten yards or a little more in diameter, is
+manured with ashes and planted with this millet and pumpkins, in order
+that should Mazitu come they may be unable to carry off the pumpkins,
+or gather the millet, the seed of which is very small. They have no
+more valour than the other Africans, but more craft, and are much
+given to falsehood. They will not answer common questions except by
+misstatements, but this may arise in our case from our being in
+disfavour, because we will not sell all our goods to them for ivory.
+
+_30th December, 1866._--Marched for Chitemba's, because it is said he
+has not fled from the Mazitu, and therefore has food to spare. While
+resting, Moerwa, with all his force of men, women, and dogs, came up,
+on his way to hunt elephants. The men were furnished with big spears,
+and their dogs are used to engage the animal's attention while they
+spear it; the women cook the meat and make huts, and a smith goes with
+them to mend any spear that may be broken.
+
+We pass over level plateaux on which the roads are wisely placed, and
+do not feel that we are travelling in a mountainous region. It is all
+covered with dense forest, which in many cases is pollarded, from
+being cut for bark cloth or for hunting purposes. Masuko fruit
+abounds. From the cisalpinae and gum-copal trees bark cloth is made.
+
+We now come to large masses of haematite, which is often ferruginous:
+there is conglomerate too, many quartz pebbles being intermixed. It
+seems as if when the lakes existed in the lower lands, the higher
+levels gave forth great quantities of water from chalybeate fountains,
+which deposited this iron ore. Grey granite or quartz with talc in it
+or gneiss lie under the haematite.
+
+The forest resounds with singing birds, intent on nidification.
+Francolins abound, but are wild. "Whip-poor-wills," and another bird,
+which has a more laboured treble note and voice--"Oh, oh, oh!" Gay
+flowers blush unseen, but the people have a good idea of what is
+eatable and what not. I looked at a woman's basket of leaves which she
+had collected for supper, and it contained eight or ten kinds, with
+mushrooms and orchidaceous flowers. We have a succession of showers
+to-day, from N.E. and E.N.E. We are uncertain when we shall come to a
+village, as the Babisa will not tell us where they are situated. In
+the evening we encamped beside a little rill, and made our shelters,
+but we had so little to eat that I dreamed the night long of dinners I
+had eaten, and might have been eating.
+
+I shall make this beautiful land better known, which is an essential
+part of the process by which it will become the "pleasant haunts of
+men." It is impossible to describe its rich luxuriance, but most of it
+is running to waste through the slave-trade and internal wars.
+
+_31st December, 1866._--When we started this morning after rain, all
+the trees and grass dripping, a lion roared, but we did not see him. A
+woman had come a long way and built a neat miniature hut in the
+burnt-out ruins of her mother's house: the food-offering she placed in
+it, and the act of filial piety, no doubt comforted this poor
+mourner's heart!
+
+We arrived at Chitembo's village and found it deserted. The Babisa
+dismantle their huts and carry off the thatch to their gardens, where
+they live till harvest is over. This fallowing of the framework
+destroys many insects, but we observed that wherever Babisa and Arab
+slavers go they leave the breed of the domestic bug: it would be well
+if that were all the ill they did! Chitembo was working in his garden
+when we arrived, but soon came, and gave us the choice of all the
+standing huts: he is an old man, much more frank and truthful than our
+last headman, and says that Chitapanga is paramount chief of all the
+Abemba.
+
+Three or four women whom we saw performing a rain dance at Moerwa's
+were here doing the same; their faces smeared with meal, and axes in
+their hands, imitating as well as they could the male voice. I got
+some maere or millet here and a fowl.
+
+We now end 1866. It has not been so fruitful or useful as I intended.
+Will try to do better in 1867, and be better--more gentle and loving;
+and may the Almighty, to whom I commit my way, bring my desires to
+pass, and prosper me! Let all the sins of '66 be blotted out for
+Jesus' sake.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_1st January, 1867._--May He who was full of grace and truth impress
+His character on mine. Grace--eagerness to show favour;
+truth--truthfulness, sincerity, honour--for His mercy's sake.
+
+We remain to-day at Mbulukuta-Chitembo's district, by the boys'
+desire, because it is New Year's day, and also because we can get some
+food.
+
+_2nd and 3rd January, 1867._--Remain on account of a threatened
+_set-in_ rain. Bought a senze _(Aulocaudatus Swindernianus)_, a
+rat-looking animal; but I was glad to get anything in the shape of
+meat.
+
+_4th January, 1867._--It is a _set-in_ rain. The boiling-point
+thermometer shows an altitude of 3565 feet above the sea. Barometer,
+3983 feet ditto. We get a little maere here, and prefer it to being
+drenched and our goods spoiled. We have neither sugar nor salt, so
+there are no soluble goods; but cloth and gunpowder get damaged
+easily. It is hard fare and scanty; I feel always hungry, and am
+constantly dreaming of better food when I should be sleeping. Savoury
+viands of former times come vividly up before the imagination, even in
+my waking hours; this is rather odd as I am not a dreamer; indeed I
+scarcely ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually so.[43]
+
+We are on the northern brim (or north-western rather) of the great
+Loangwa Valley we lately crossed: the rain coming from the east
+strikes it, and is deposited both above and below, while much of the
+valley itself is not yet well wetted. Here all the grasses have run up
+to seed, and yet they are not more than two feet or so in the
+seed-stalks. The pasturage is very fine. The people employ these
+continuous or _set-in_ rains for hunting the elephant, which gets
+bogged, and sinks in from fifteen to eighteen inches in soft mud,
+then even he, the strong one, feels it difficult to escape.[44]
+
+_5th January, 1867._--Still storm-stayed. We shall be off as soon as
+we get a fair day and these heavy rains cease.
+
+_6th January, 1867._--After service two men came and said that they
+were going to Lobemba, and would guide us to Motuna's village; another
+came a day or two ago, but he had such a villainous look we all shrank
+from him. These men's faces pleased us, but they did not turn out all
+we expected, for they guided us away westwards without a path: it was
+a drizzling rain, and this made us averse to striking off in the
+forest without them. No inhabitants now except at wide intervals, and
+no animals either. In the afternoon we came to a deep ravine full of
+gigantic timber trees and bamboos, with the Mavoche River at the
+bottom. The dampness had caused the growth of lichens all over the
+trees, and the steep descent was so slippery that two boys fell, and
+he who carried the chronometers, twice: this was a misfortune, as it
+altered the rates, as was seen by the first comparison of them
+together in the evening. No food at Motuna's village, yet the headman
+tried to extort two fathoms of calico on the ground that he was owner
+of the country: we offered to go out of his village and make our own
+sheds on "God's land," that is, where it is uncultivated, rather than
+have any words about it: he then begged us to stay. A very high
+mountain called Chikokwe appeared W.S.W. from this village; the people
+who live on it are called Matumba; this part is named Lokumbi, but
+whatever the name, all the people are Babisa, the dependants of the
+Babemba, reduced by their own slaving habits to a miserable jungly
+state. They feed much on wild fruits, roots, and leaves; and yet are
+generally plump. They use a wooden hoe for sowing their maere, it is
+a sort of V-shaped implement, made from a branch with another
+springing out of it, about an inch in diameter at the sharp point, and
+with it they claw the soil after scattering the seed; about a dozen
+young men were so employed in the usual small patches as we passed in
+the morning.
+
+The country now exhibits the extreme of leafiness and the undulations
+are masses of green leaves; as far as the eye can reach with
+distinctness it rests on a mantle of that hue, and beyond the scene
+becomes dark blue. Near at hand many gay flowers peep out. Here and
+there the scarlet martagon (_Lilium chalcedonicum_), bright blue or
+yellow gingers; red, orange, yellow, and pure white orchids; pale
+lobelias, &c.; but they do not mar the general greenness. As we
+ascended higher on the plateau, grasses, which have pink and reddish
+brown seed-vessels imparted distinct shades of their colours to the
+lawns, and were grateful to the eye. We turned aside early in our
+march to avoid being wetted by rains, and took shelter in some old
+Babisa sheds; these, when the party is a slaving one, are built so as
+to form a circle, with but one opening: a ridge pole, or rather a
+succession of ridge poles, form one long shed all round, with no
+partitions in the roof-shaped hut.
+
+On the _9th of January_ we ascended a hardened sandstone range. Two
+men who accompanied our guide called out every now and then to attract
+the attention of the honey-guide, but none appeared. A water-buck had
+been killed and eaten at one spot, the ground showing marks of a
+severe struggle, but no game was to be seen. Buffaloes and elephants
+come here at certain seasons; at present they have migrated elsewhere.
+The valleys are very beautiful: the oozes are covered with a species
+of short wiry grass, which gives the valleys the appearance of
+well-kept gentlemen's parks; but they are full of water to
+overflowing--immense sponges in fact;--and one has to watch carefully
+in crossing them to avoid plunging into deep water-holes, made by the
+feet of elephants or buffaloes. In the ooze generally the water comes
+half-way up the shoe, and we go plash, plash, plash, in the lawn-like
+glade. There are no people here now in these lovely wild valleys; but
+to-day we came to mounds made of old for planting grain, and slag from
+iron furnaces. The guide was rather offended because he did not get
+meat and meal, though he is accustomed to leaves at home, and we had
+none to give except by wanting ourselves: he found a mess without much
+labour in the forest. My stock of meal came to an end to-day, but
+Simon gave me some of his. It is not the unpleasantness of eating
+unpalatable food that teases one, but we are never satisfied; I could
+brace myself to dispose of a very unsavoury mess, and think no more
+about it; but this maere engenders a craving which plagues day and
+night incessantly.
+
+_10th January, 1867._--We crossed the Muasi, flowing strongly to the
+east to the Loangwa River.
+
+In the afternoon an excessively heavy thunderstorm wetted us all to
+the skin before any shelter could be made. Two of our men wandered,
+and other two remained behind lost, as our track was washed out by the
+rains. The country is a succession of enormous waves, all covered with
+jungle, and no traces of paths; we were in a hollow, and our firing
+was not heard till this morning, when we ascended a height and were
+answered. I am thankful that up one was lost, for a man might wander a
+long time before reaching a village. Simon gave me a little more of
+his meal this morning, and went without himself: I took my belt up
+three holes to relieve hunger. We got some wretched wild fruit like
+that called "jambos" in India, and at midday reached the village of
+Chafunga. Famine here too, but some men had killed an elephant and
+came to sell the dried meat: it was high, and so were their prices;
+but we are obliged to give our best from this craving hunger.
+
+_12th January, 1867._--Sitting down this morning near a tree my head
+was just one yard off a good-sized cobra, coiled up in the sprouts at
+its root, but it was benumbed with cold: a very pretty little
+puff-adder lay in the path, also benumbed; it is seldom that any harm
+is done by these reptiles here, although it is different in India. We
+bought up all the food we could get; but it did not suffice for the
+marches we expect to make to get to the Chambeze, where food is said
+to be abundant, we were therefore again obliged to travel on Sunday.
+We had prayers before starting; but I always feel that I am not doing
+fight, it lessens the sense of obligation in the minds of my
+companions; but I have no choice. We went along a rivulet till it
+ended in a small lake, Mapampa or Chimbwe, about five miles long, and
+one and a half broad. It had hippopotami, and the poku fed on its
+banks.
+
+_15th January, 1867._--We had to cross the Chimbwe at its eastern end,
+where it is fully a mile wide. The guide refused to show another and
+narrower ford up the stream, which emptied into it from the east; and
+I, being the first to cross, neglected to give orders about the poor
+little dog, Chitane. The water was waist deep, the bottom soft peaty
+stuff with deep holes in it, and the northern side infested by
+leeches. The boys were--like myself--all too much engaged with
+preserving their balance to think of the spirited little beast, and he
+must have swam till he sunk. He was so useful in keeping all the
+country curs off our huts; none dare to approach and steal, and he
+never stole himself. He shared the staring of the people with his
+master, then in the march he took charge of the whole party, running
+to the front, and again to the rear, to see that all was right. He was
+becoming yellowish-red in colour; and, poor thing, perished in what
+the boys all call Chitane's water.
+
+_16th January, 1867._--March through the mountains, which are of
+beautiful white and pink dolomite, scantily covered with upland trees
+and vegetation. The rain, as usual, made us halt early, and wild
+fruits helped to induce us to stay.
+
+In one place we lighted on a party of people living on Masuko fruit,
+and making mats of the Shuare[45] palm petioles. We have hard lines
+ourselves; nothing but a little maere porridge and dampers. We roast a
+little grain, and boil it, to make believe it is coffee. The guide, a
+maundering fellow, turned because he was not fed better than at home,
+and because he knew that but for his obstinacy we should not have lost
+the dog. It is needless to repeat that it is all forest on the
+northern slopes of the mountains--open glade and miles of forest;
+ground at present all sloppy; oozes full and overflowing--feet
+constantly wet. Rivulets rush strongly with _clear_ water, though they
+are in flood: we can guess which are perennial and which mere torrents
+that dry up; they flow northwards and westwards to the Chambeze.
+
+_17th January, 1867._--Detained in an old Babisa slaving encampment by
+set-in rain till noon, then set off in the midst of it. Came to hills
+of dolomite, but all the rocks were covered with white lichens
+(ash-coloured). The path took us thence along a ridge, which separates
+the Lotiri, running westwards, and the Lobo, going northwards, and we
+came at length to the Lobo, travelling along its banks till we reached
+the village called Lisunga, which was about five yards broad, and very
+deep, in flood, with clear water, as indeed are all the rivulets now;
+they can only be crossed by felling a tree on the bant and letting it
+fall across. They do not abrade their banks--vegetation protects them.
+I observed that the brown ibis, a noisy bird, took care to restrain
+his loud, harsh voice when driven from the tree in which his nest was
+placed, and when about a quarter of a mile off, then commenced his
+loud "Ha-ha-ha!"
+
+_18th January, 1867._--The headman of Lisunga, Chaokila, took our
+present, and gave nothing in return. A deputy from Chitapangwa came
+afterwards and demanded a larger present, as he was the greater man,
+and said that if we gave him two fathoms of calico, he would order all
+the people to bring plenty of food, not here only, but all the way to
+the paramount chief of Lobemba, Chitapangwa. I proposed that he should
+begin by ordering Chaokila to give us some in return for our present.
+This led, as Chaokila told us, to the cloth being delivered to the
+deputy, and we saw that all the starvelings south of the Chambeze were
+poor dependants on the Babemba, or rather their slaves, who cultivate
+little, and then only in the rounded patches above mentioned, so as to
+prevent their conquerors from taking away more than a small share. The
+subjects are Babisa--a miserable lying lot of serfs. This tribe is
+engaged in the slave-trade, and the evil effects are seen in their
+depopulated country and utter distrust of every one.
+
+_19th January, 1867._--Raining most of the day. Worked out the
+longitude of the mountain-station said to be Mpini, but it will be
+better to name it Chitane's, as I could not get the name from our
+maundering guide; he probably did not know it. Lat, 11 deg. 9' 2" S.;
+long. 32 deg. 1' 30" E.
+
+    Altitude above sea (barometer)     5353 feet;
+    Altitude above sea (boiling-point) 5385 feet.
+                                       ----
+                                   Diff. 32.[46]
+
+Nothing but famine and famine prices, the people living on mushrooms
+and leaves. Of mushrooms we observed that they choose five or six
+kinds, and rejected ten sorts. One species becomes as large as the
+crown of a man's hat; it is pure white, with a blush of brown in the
+middle of the crown, and is very good roasted; it is named "Motenta;"
+another, Mofeta; 3rd, Bosefwe; 4th, Nakabausa; 5th, Chisimbe,
+lobulated, green outside, and pink and fleshy inside; as a relish to
+others: some experience must have been requisite to enable them to
+distinguish the good from the noxious, of which they reject ten sorts.
+
+We get some elephants' meat from the people, but high is no name for
+its condition. It is very bitter, but we used it as a relish to the
+maere porridge: none of the animal is wasted; skin and all is cut up
+and sold, not one of us would touch it with the hand if we had aught
+else, for the gravy in which we dip our porridge is like an aqueous
+solution of aloes, but it prevents the heartburn, which maere causes
+when taken alone. I take mushrooms boiled instead; but the meat is
+never refused when we can purchase it, as it seems to ease the feeling
+of fatigue which jungle-fruit and fare engenders. The appetite in this
+country is always very keen, and makes hunger worse to bear: the want
+of salt, probably, makes the gnawing sensation worse.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[We now come to a disaster which cannot be exaggerated in importance
+when we witness its after effects month by month on Dr. Livingstone.
+There can be little doubt that the severity of his subsequent
+illnesses mainly turned upon it, and it is hardly too much to believe
+that his constitution from this time was steadily sapped by the
+effects of fever-poison which he was powerless to counteract, owing to
+the want of quinine. In his allusion to Bishop Mackenzie's death, we
+have only a further confirmation of the one rule in all such cases
+which must be followed, or the traveller in Africa goes--not with his
+life in his hand, but in some luckless box, put in the charge of
+careless servants. Bishop Mackenzie had all his drugs destroyed by the
+upsetting of a canoe, in which was his case of medicines, and in a
+moment everything was soaked and spoilt.
+
+It cannot be too strongly urged on explorers that they should divide
+their more important medicines in such a way that a _total loss_ shall
+become well-nigh impossible. Three or four tin canisters containing
+some calomel, Dover's powder, colocynth, and, above all, a supply of
+quinine, can be distributed in different packages, and then, if a
+mishap occurs similar to that which Livingstone relates, the disaster
+is not beyond remedy.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_20th January, 1867._--A guide refused, so we marched without one. The
+two Waiyau, who joined us at Kande's village, now deserted. They had
+been very faithful all the way, and took our part in every case.
+Knowing the language well, they were extremely useful, and no one
+thought that they would desert, for they were free men--their masters
+had been killed by the Mazitu--and this circumstance, and their
+uniform good conduct, made us trust them more than we should have done
+any others who had been slaves. But they left us in the forest, and
+heavy rain came on, which obliterated every vestige of their
+footsteps. To make the loss the more galling, they took what we could
+least spare--the medicine-box, which they would only throw away as
+soon as they came to examine their booty. One of these deserters
+exchanged his load that morning with a boy called Baraka, who had
+charge of the medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done,
+because with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all
+Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The Waiyau
+also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he
+gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. The
+forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of getting a glimpse
+of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box of powder, the
+flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as the Chambeze, the
+tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch; but the medicine-chest was the
+sorest loss of all! I felt as if I had now received the sentence of
+death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie.
+
+All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or desertion, but
+had never dreamed of losing the precious quinine and other remedies;
+other losses and annoyances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent
+of vexations which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and
+certainly not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an
+explorer anxious to benefit a country and people--but this loss I feel
+most keenly. Everything of this kind happens by the permission of One
+who watches over us with most tender care; and this may turn out for
+the best by taking away a source of suspicion among more
+superstitious, charm-dreading people further north. I meant it as a
+source of benefit to my party and to the heathen.
+
+We returned to Lisunga, and got two men off to go back to Chafunga's
+village, and intercept the deserters if they went there; but it is
+likely that, having our supply of flour, they will give our route a
+wide berth and escape altogether. It is difficult to say from the
+heart, "Thy will be done;" but I shall try. These Waiyau had few
+advantages: sold into slavery in early life, they were in the worst
+possible school for learning to be honest and honourable, they behaved
+well for a long time; but, having had hard and scanty fare in Lobisa,
+wet and misery in passing through dripping forests, hungry nights and
+fatiguing days, their patience must have been worn out, and they had
+no sentiments of honour, or at least none so strong as we ought to
+have; they gave way to the temptation which their good conduct had led
+us to put in their way. Some we have come across in this journey
+seemed born essentially mean and base--a great misfortune to them and
+all who have to deal with them, but they cannot be so blamable as
+those who have no natural tendency to meanness, and whose education
+has taught them to abhor it. True; yet this loss of the medicine-box
+gnaws at the heart terribly.
+
+_21st and 22nd January, 1867._--Remained at Lisunga--raining nearly
+all day; and we bought all the maere the chief would sell. We were now
+forced to go on and made for the next village to buy food. Want of
+food and rain are our chief difficulties now, more rain falls here on
+this northern slope of the upland than elsewhere; clouds come up from
+the north and pour down their treasures in heavy thunder-showers,
+which deluge the whole country south of the edge of the plateau: the
+rain-clouds come from the west chiefly.
+
+_23rd January, 1867._--A march of five and three-quarter hours brought
+us yesterday to a village, Chibanda's stockade, where "no food" was
+the case, as usual. We crossed a good-sized rivulet, the Mapampa
+(probably ten yards wide), dashing along to the east; all the rest of
+the way was in dark forest. I sent off the boys to the village of
+Muasi to buy food, if successful, to-morrow we march for the Chambeze,
+on the other side of which all the reports agree in the statement that
+there plenty of food is to be had. We all feel weak and easily tired,
+and an incessant hunger teases us, so it is no wonder if so large a
+space of this paper is occupied by stomach affairs. It has not been
+merely want of nice dishes, but real biting hunger and faintness.
+
+_24th January, 1867._--Four hours through unbroken, dark forest
+brought us to the Movushi, which here is a sluggish stream, winding
+through and filling a marshy valley a mile wide. It comes from
+south-east, and falls into the Chambeze, about 2' north of our
+encampment. The village of Moaba is on the east side of the marshy
+valley of the Movuhi, and very difficult to be approached, as the
+water is chin-deep in several spots. I decided to make sheds on the
+west side, and send over for food, which, thanks to the Providence
+which watches over us, we found at last in a good supply of maere and
+some ground-nuts; but through, all this upland region the trees
+yielding bark-cloth, or _nyanda_, are so abundant, that the people
+are all well-clothed with it, and care but little for our cloth. Red
+and pink beads are in fashion, and fortunately we have red.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[We may here add a few particulars concerning beads, which form such
+an important item of currency all through Africa. With a few
+exceptions they are all manufactured in Venice. The greatest care must
+be exercised, or the traveller--ignorant of the prevailing fashion in
+the country he is about to explore--finds himself with an accumulation
+of beads of no more value than tokens would be if tendered in this
+country for coin of the realm.
+
+Thanks to the kindness of Messrs. Levin & Co., the bead merchants, of
+Bevis Marks, E.C., we have been able to get some idea of the more
+valuable beads, through a selection made by Susi and Chuma in their
+warehouse. The Waiyou prefer exceedingly small beads, the size of
+mustard-seed, and of various colours, but they must be opaque: amongst
+them dull white chalk varieties, called "Catchokolo," are valuable,
+besides black and pink, named, respectively, "Bububu" and
+"Sekundereche" = the "dregs of pombe." One red bead, of various sizes,
+which has a white centre, is always valuable in every part of Africa.
+It is called "Sami-sami" by the Suahele, "Chitakaraka" by the Waiyou,
+"Mangazi," = "blood," by the Nyassa, and was found popular even
+amongst the Manyuema, under the name of "Maso-kantussi", "bird's
+eyes." Whilst speaking of this distant tribe, it is interesting to
+observe that one peculiar long bead, recognised as common in the
+Manyuema land, is only sent to the West Coast of Africa, and _never_
+to the East. On Chuma pointing to it as a sort found at the extreme
+limit explored by Livingstone, it was at once seen that he must have
+touched that part of Africa which begins to be within the reach of the
+traders in the Portuguese settlements. "Machua Kanga" = "guinea fowl's
+eyes," is another popular variety; and the "Moiompio" = "new heart,"
+a large pale blue bead, is a favourite amongst the Wabisa; but by far
+the most valuable of all is a small white oblong bead, which, when
+strung, looks like the joints of the cane root, from which it takes
+its name, "Salani" = cane. Susi says that 1 lb. weight of these beads
+would buy a tusk of ivory, at the south end of Tanganyika, so big that
+a strong man could not carry it more than two hours.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_25th January, 1867._--Remain and get our maere ground into flour.
+Moaba has cattle, sheep, and goats. The other side of the Chambeze has
+everything in still greater abundance; so we may recover our lost
+flesh. There are buffaloes in this quarter, but we have not got a
+glimpse of any. If game was to be had, I should have hunted; but the
+hopo way of hunting prevails, and we pass miles of hedges by which
+many animals must have perished. In passing-through the forests it is
+surprising to see none but old footsteps of the game; but the hopo
+destruction accounts for its absence. When the hedges are burned, then
+the manured space is planted with pumpkins and calabashes.
+
+I observed at Chibanda's a few green mushrooms, which, on being
+peeled, showed a pink, fleshy inside; they are called "chisimba;" and
+only one or two are put into the mortar, in which the women pound the
+other kinds, to give relish, it was said, to the mass: I could not
+ascertain what properties chisimba had when taken alone; but mushroom
+diet, in our experience, is good only for producing dreams of the
+roast beef of bygone days. The saliva runs from the mouth in these
+dreams, and the pillow is wet with it in the mornings.
+
+These Babisa are full of suspicion; everything has to be paid for
+accordingly in advance, and we found that giving a present to a chief
+is only putting it in his power to cheat us out of a supper. They give
+nothing to each other for nothing, and if this is enlargement of mind
+produced by commerce, commend me to the untrading African!
+
+Fish now appear in the rivulets. Higher altitudes have only small
+things, not worth catching.
+
+An owl makes the woods resound by night and early morning with his
+cries, which consist of a loud, double-initial note, and then a
+succession of lower descending notes. Another new bird, or at least
+new to me, makes the forests ring.
+
+When the vultures see us making our sheds, they conclude that we have
+killed some animal; but after watching awhile, and seeing no meat,
+they depart. This is suggestive of what other things prove, that it is
+only by sight they are guided.[47]
+
+With respect to the native head-dresses the colouring-matter, "nkola,"
+which seems to be camwood, is placed as an ornament on the head, and
+some is put on the bark-cloth to give it a pleasant appearance. The
+tree, when cut, is burned to bring out the strong colour, and then,
+when it is developed, the wood is powdered.
+
+The gum-copal trees now pour out gum where wounded, and I have seen
+masses of it fallen on the ground.
+
+_26th January, 1867._--Went northwards along the Movushi, near to its
+confluence with Chambeze, and then took lodging in a deserted
+temporary village. In the evening I shot a poku, or tsebula,
+full-grown male. It measured from snout to insertion of tail, 5 feet
+3 inches; tail, 1 foot; height at withers, 3 feet; circumference of
+chest, 5 feet; face to insertion of horns, 9-1/2 inches; horns
+measured on curve, 16 inches. Twelve rings on horns, and one had a
+ridge behind, 1/2 inch broad, 1/2 inch high, and tapering up the horn;
+probably accidental. Colour: reddish-yellow, dark points in front of
+foot and on the ears, belly nearly white. The shell went through from
+behind the shoulder to the spleen, and burst on the other side, yet he
+ran 100 yards. I felt very thankful to the Giver of all good for this
+meat.
+
+_27th January, 1867._--A set-in rain all the morning, but having meat
+we were comfortable in the old huts. In changing my dress this morning
+I was frightened at my own emaciation.
+
+_28th January, 1867._--- We went five miles along the Movushi and the
+Chambeze to a crossing-place said to avoid three rivers on the other
+side, which require canoes just now, and have none. Our lat. 10 deg. 34'
+S. The Chambeze was flooded with clear water, but the lines of bushy
+trees, which showed its real banks, were not more than forty yards
+apart, it showed its usual character of abundant animal life in its
+waters and on its banks, as it wended its way westwards. The canoe-man
+was excessively suspicious; when prepayment was acceded to, he asked a
+piece more, and although he was promised full payment as soon as we
+were all safely across he kept the last man on the south side as a
+hostage for this bit of calico: he then ran away. They must cheat each
+other sadly.
+
+Went northwards, wading across two miles of flooded flats on to which
+the _Clarias Capensis_, a species of siluris, comes to forage out of
+the river. We had the Likindazi, a sedgy stream, with hippopotami, on
+our right. Slept in forest without seeing anyone. Then next day we met
+with a party who had come from their village to look for us. We were
+now in Lobemba, but these villagers had nothing but hopes of plenty at
+Chitapangwa's. This village had half a mile of ooze and sludgy marsh
+in front of it, and a stockade as usual. We observed that the people
+had great fear of animals at night, and shut the gates carefully, of
+even temporary villages. When at Molemba (Chitapangwa's village)
+afterwards, two men were killed by a lion, and great fear of
+crocodiles was expressed by our canoe-man at the Chambeze, when one
+washed in the margin of that river. There was evidence of abundance of
+game, elephants, and buffaloes, but we saw none.
+
+_29th January, 1867._--When near our next stage end we were shown
+where lightning had struck; it ran down a gum-copal tree without
+damaging it, then ten yards horizontally, and dividing there into two
+streams it went up an anthill; the withered grass showed its course
+very plainly, and next day (31st), on the banks of the Mabula, we saw
+a dry tree which had been struck; large splinters had been riven off
+and thrown a distance of sixty yards in one direction and thirty yards
+in another: only a stump was left, and patches of withered grass where
+it had gone horizontally.
+
+_30th January, 1867._--Northwards through almost trackless dripping
+forests and across oozing bogs.
+
+_31st January, 1867._--Through forest, but gardens of larger size than
+in Lobisa now appear. A man offered a thick bar of copper for sale, a
+foot by three inches. The hard-leafed acacia and mohempi abound. The
+valleys, with the oozes, have a species of grass, having pink
+seed-stalks and yellow seeds: this is very pretty. At midday we came
+to the Lopiri, the rivulet which waters Chitapanga's stockade, and
+soon after found that his village has a triple stockade, the inner
+being defended also by a deep broad ditch and hedge of a solanaceous
+thorny shrub. It is about 200 yards broad and 500 long. The huts not
+planted very closely.
+
+The rivulets were all making for the Chambeze. They contain no fish,
+except very small ones--probably fry. On the other, or western side
+of the ridge, near which "Malemba" is situated, fish abound worth
+catching.
+
+[Illustration: Chitapangwa]
+
+Chitapangwa, or Motoka, as he is also called, sent to inquire if we
+wanted an audience. "We must take something in our hands the first
+time we came before so great a man." Being tired from marching, I
+replied, "Not till the evening," and sent notice at 5 P.M. of my
+coming. We passed through the inner stockade, and then on to an
+enormous hut, where sat Chitapangwa, with three drummers and ten or
+more men, with two rattles in their hands. The drummers beat
+furiously, and the rattlers kept time to the drums, two of them
+advancing and receding in a stooping posture, with rattles near the
+ground, as if doing the chief obeisance, but still keeping time with
+the others. I declined to sit on the ground, and an enormous tusk was
+brought for me. The chief saluted courteously. He has a fat jolly
+face, and legs loaded with brass and copper leglets. I mentioned our
+losses by the desertion of the Waiyau, but his power is merely
+nominal, and he could do nothing. After talking awhile he came along
+with us to a group of cows, and pointed out one. "That is yours," said
+he. The tusk on which I sat was sent after me too as being mine,
+because I had sat upon it. He put on my cloth as token of acceptance,
+and sent two large baskets of sorghum to the hut afterwards, and then
+sent for one of the boys to pump him after dark.
+
+[Illustration: Chitapangwa's Wives.]
+
+_1st February, 1867._--We found a small party of black Arab
+slave-traders here from Bagamoio on the coast, and as the chief had
+behaved handsomely as I thought, I went this morning and gave him one
+of our best cloths; but when we were about to kill the cow, a man
+interfered and pointed out a smaller one. I asked if this was by the
+orders of the chief. The chief said that the man had lied, but I
+declined to take any cow at all if he did not give it willingly.
+
+The slavers, the headman of whom was Magaru Mafupi, came and said that
+they were going off on the 2nd; (_2nd February, 1867_) but by payment
+I got them to remain a day, and was all day employed in writing
+despatches.
+
+_3rd February, 1867._--Magaru Mafupi left this morning with a packet
+of letters, for which he is to get Rs. 10 at Zanzibar.[48] They came
+by a much shorter route than we followed, in fact, nearly due west or
+south-west; but not a soul would tell us of this way of coming into
+the country when we were at Zanzibar. Bagamoio is only six hours north
+of Kurdary Harbour. It is possible that the people of Zanzibar did not
+know of it themselves, as this is the first time they have come so
+far. The route is full of villages and people who have plenty of
+goats, and very cheap. They number fifteen stations, or sultans, as
+they call the chiefs, and will be at Bagamoio in two months:--1.
+Chasa; 2. Lombe; 3. Uchere; 4. Nyamiro; 5. Zonda; 6. Zambi; 7. Lioti;
+8. Merere; 9. Kirangabana; 10. Nkongozi; 11. Sombogo; 12. Sure; 13.
+Lomolasenga; 14. Kapass; 15, Chanze. They are then in the country
+adjacent to Bagamoio. Some of these places are two or three days apart
+from each other.
+
+They came to three large rivers: 1. Wembo; 2. Luaha; 3. Luvo; but I
+had not time to make further inquiries. They had one of Speke's
+companions to Tanganyika with them, named Janje, or Janja, who could
+imitate a trumpet by blowing into the palm of his hand. I ordered
+another supply of cloth and beads, and I sent for a small quantity of
+coffee, sugar, candles, French preserved meats, a cheese in tin, six
+bottles of port-wine, quinine, calomel, and resin of jalap, to be sent
+to Ujiji.
+
+I proposed to go a little way east with this route to buy goats, but
+Chitapangwa got very angry, saying, I came only to show my things, and
+would buy nothing: he then altered his tone, and requested me to take
+the cow first presented and eat it, and as we were all much in need I
+took it. We were to give only what we liked in addition; but this was
+a snare, and when I gave two more cloths he sent them back, and
+demanded a blanket. The boys alone have blankets; so I told him these
+were not slaves, and I could not take from them what I had once given.
+Though it is disagreeable to be thus victimized, it is the first time
+we have tasted fat for six weeks and more.
+
+_6th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa came with his wife to see the
+instruments which I explained to them as well as I could, and the
+books, as well as the Book of Books, and to my statements he made
+intelligent remarks. The boys are sorely afraid of him. When Abraham
+does not like to say what I state, he says to me "I don't know the
+proper word;" but when I speak without him, he soon finds them. He and
+Simon thought that talking in a cringing manner was the way to win him
+over, so I let them try it with a man he sent to communicate with us,
+and the result was this fellow wanted to open their bundles, pulled
+them about, and kept them awake most of the night. Abraham came at
+night: "Sir, what shall I do? they won't let me sleep." "You have had
+your own way," I replied, "and must abide by it." He brought them over
+to me in the morning, but I soon dismissed both him and them.
+
+_7th February, 1867._--I sent to the chief either to come to me or say
+Avhen I should come to him and talk; the answer I got was that he
+would come when shaved, but he afterwards sent a man to hear what I
+had to advance--this I declined, and when the rain ceased I went
+myself.
+
+On coming into his hut I stated that I had given him four times the
+value of his cow, but if he thought otherwise, let us take the four
+cloths to his brother Moamba, and if he said that I had not given
+enough, I would buy a cow and send it back. This he did not relish at
+all. "Oh, great Englishman! why should we refer a dispute to an
+inferior. I am the great chief of all this country. Ingleze mokolu,
+you are sorry that you have to give so much for the ox you have eaten.
+You would not take a smaller, and therefore I gratified your heart by
+giving the larger; and why should not you gratify my heart by giving
+cloth sufficient to cover me, and please me?"
+
+I said that my cloths would cover him, and his biggest wife too all
+over, he laughed at this, but still held out; and as we have meat, and
+he sent maize and calabashes, I went away. He turns round now, and
+puts the blame of greediness on me. I cannot enter into his ideas, or
+see his point of view; cannot, in fact, enter into his ignorance, his
+prejudices, or delusions, so it is impossible to pronounce a true
+judgment. One who has no humour cannot understand one who has: this is
+an equivalent case.
+
+Rain and clouds so constantly, I could not get our latitude till last
+night, 10 deg. 14' 6" S. On 8th got lunars. Long. 31 deg. 46' 45" E.
+Altitude above sea, 4700 feet, by boiling-point and barometer.
+
+_8th February, 1867._--The chief demands one of my boxes and a
+blanket; I explain that one day's rain would spoil the contents, and
+the boys who have blankets, not being slaves, I cannot take from them
+what I have given. I am told that he declares that he will take us
+back to the Loangwa; make war and involve us in it, deprive us of
+food, &c.: this succeeds in terrifying the boys. He thinks that we
+have some self-interest to secure in passing through the country, and
+therefore he has a right to a share in the gain. When told it was for
+a public benefit, he pulled down the underlid of the right eye.[49] He
+believes we shall profit by our journey, though he knows not in what
+way.
+
+It is possibly only a coincidence, but no sooner do we meet with one
+who accompanied Speke and Burton to Tanganyika, than the system of
+mulcting commences. I have no doubt but that Janje told this man how
+his former employers paid down whatever was demanded of them.
+
+_10th February, 1867._--I had service in the open air, many looking
+on, and spoke afterwards to the chief, but he believes nothing save
+what Speke and Burton's man has told him. He gave us a present of corn
+and ground-nuts, and says he did not order the people not to sell
+grain to us. We must stop and eat green maize. He came after evening
+service, and I explained a little to him, and showed him woodcuts in
+the 'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood.
+
+_11th February, 1867._--The chief sent us a basket of hippopotamus
+flesh from the Chambeze, and a large one of green maize. He says the
+three cloths I offered are still mine: all he wants is a box and
+blanket; if not a blanket, a box must be given, a tin one. He keeps
+out of my way, by going to the gardens every morning. He is
+good-natured, and our intercourse is a laughing one; but the boys
+betray their terrors in their tone of voice, and render my words
+powerless.
+
+The black and white, and the brownish-grey water wagtails are
+remarkably tame. They come about the huts and even into them, and no
+one ever disturbs them. They build their nests about the huts. In the
+Bechuana country, a fine is imposed on any man whose boys kill one,
+but why, no one can tell me. The boys with me aver that they are not
+killed, because the meat is not eaten! or because they are so tame!!
+
+_13th February, 1867._--I gave one of the boxes at last, Chitapangwa
+offering a heavy Arab wooden one to preserve our things, which I
+declined to take, as I parted with our own partly to lighten a load.
+Abraham unwittingly told me that he had not given me the chiefs
+statement in full when he pressed me to take his cow. It was, "Take
+and eat the one you like, and give me a blanket." Abraham said "He has
+no blanket." Then he said to me, "Take it and eat it, and give him any
+pretty thing you like." I was thus led to mistake the chief, and he,
+believing that he had said explicitly he wanted a blanket for it,
+naturally held out. It is difficult to get these lads to say what one
+wants uttered: either with enormous self-conceit, they give different,
+and, as they think, better statements, suppress them altogether, or
+return false answers: this is the great and crowning difficulty of my
+intercourse.
+
+I got ready to go, but the chief was very angry, and came with all his
+force, exclaiming that I wanted to leave against his will and power,
+though he wished to adjust matters, and send me away nicely. He does
+not believe that we have no blankets. It is hard to be kept waiting
+here, but all may be for the best: it has always turned out so, and I
+trust in Him on whom I can cast all my cares. The Lord look on this
+and help me. Though I have these nine boys, I feel quite alone.
+
+I gave the chief some seeds, peas, and beans, for which he seemed
+thankful, and returned little presents of food and beer frequently.
+The beer of maere is stuffed full of the growing grain as it begins to
+sprout, it is as thick as porridge, very strong and bitter, and goes
+to the head, requiring a strong digestion to overcome it.
+
+_February, 1867._--I showed the chief one of the boys' blankets,
+which he is willing to part with for two of our cloths, each of which
+is larger than it, but he declines to receive it, because we have new
+ones. I invited him, since he disbelieved my assertions, to look in
+our bales, and if he saw none, to pay us a fine for the insult: he
+consented in a laughing way to give us an ox. All our personal
+intercourse has been of the good-natured sort. It is the
+communications to the boys, by three men who are our protectors, or
+rather spies, that is disagreeable; I won't let them bring those
+fellows near me.
+
+_10th February, 1867._--He came early in the morning, and I showed
+that I had no blanket, and he took the old one, and said that the
+affair was ended. A long misunderstanding would have been avoided, had
+Abraham told me fully what the chief said at first.
+
+_16th February, 1867._--The chief offered me a cow for a piece of red
+serge, and after a deal of talk and Chitapangwa swearing that no
+demand would be made after the bargain was concluded, I gave the
+serge, a cloth, and a few beads for a good fat cow. The serge was two
+fathoms, a portion of that which Miss Coutts gave me when leaving
+England in 1858.
+
+The chief is not so bad, as the boys are so cowardly. They assume a
+chirping, piping tone of voice in speaking to him, and do not say what
+at last has to be said, because in their cringing souls they believe
+they know what should be said better than I do. It does not strike
+them in the least that I have grown grey amongst these people; and it
+is immense conceit in mere boys to equal themselves to me. The
+difficulty is greater, because when I do ask their opinions I only
+receive the reply, "It is as you please, sir." Very likely some men of
+character may arise and lead them; but such as I have would do little
+to civilise.
+
+_17th February, 1867._--Too ill with rheumatic-fever to have service;
+this is the first attack of it I ever had--and no medicine! but I
+trust in the Lord, who healeth His people.
+
+_18th February, 1867._--This cow we divided at once. The last one we
+cooked, and divided a full, hearty meal to all every evening.
+
+The boom--booming of water dashing against or over the rocks is heard
+at a good distance from most of the burns in this upland region; hence
+it is never quite still.
+
+The rocks here are argillaceous schist, red and white. _(Keel,
+Scottice.)_
+
+_19th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa begged me to stay another day,
+that one of the boys might mend his blanket; it has been worn every
+night since April, and I, being weak and giddy, consented. A glorious
+day of bright sunlight after a night's rain. We scarcely ever have a
+twenty-four hours without rain, and never half that period without
+thunder.
+
+The camwood (?) is here called molombwa, and grows very abundantly.
+The people take the bark, boil, and grind it fine: it is then a
+splendid blood-red, and they use it extensively as an ornament,
+sprinkling it on the bark-cloth, or smearing it on the head. It is in
+large balls, and is now called mkola. The tree has pinnated, alternate
+lanceolate, leaves, and attains a height of 40 or 50 feet, with a
+diameter of 15 or 18 inches finely and closely veined above, more
+widely beneath.
+
+I am informed by Abraham that the Nyumbo (Numbo or Mumbo) is easily
+propagated by cuttings, or by cuttings of the roots. A bunch of the
+stalks is preserved in the soil for planting next year, and small
+pieces are cut off, and take root easily; it has a pea-shaped flower,
+but we never saw the seed. It is very much better here than I have
+seen it elsewhere; and James says that in his country it is quite
+white and better still; what I have seen is of a greenish tinge after
+it is boiled.
+
+[Amongst the articles brought to the coast the men took care not to
+lose a number of seeds which they found in Dr. Livingstone's boxes
+after his death. These have been placed in the hands of the
+authorities at Kew, and we may hope that in some instances they have
+maintained vitality.
+
+It is a great pity that there is such a lack of enterprise in the
+various European settlements on the East Coast of Africa. Were it
+otherwise a large trade in valuable woods and other products would
+assuredly spring up. Ebony and lignum vitae abound; Dr. Livingstone
+used hardly any other fuel when he navigated the _Pioneer_, and no
+wood was found to make such "good steam." India-rubber may be had for
+the collecting, and we see that even the natives know some of the
+dye-woods, besides which the palm-oil tree is found, indigo is a weed
+everywhere, and coffee is indigenous.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[36] In coming to cross roads it is the custom of the leader to "mark"
+all side paths and wrong turnings by making a scratch across them with
+his spear, or by breaking a branch and laying it across: in this way
+those who follow are able to avoid straying off the proper road.--ED.
+
+[37] Heleotragus Vardonii.
+
+[38] The tamarind does the same thing in the heat of the day.
+
+[39] A species of kingfisher, which stands flapping its wings and
+attempting to sing in a ridiculous manner. It never was better
+described than by one observer who, after watching it through its
+performance, said it was "a toy-shoppy bird."--ED.
+
+[40] Not the great chief near Lake Moero of the same name.
+
+[41] This extraordinary bird flies from tree to tree in front of the
+hunter, chirrupping loudly, and will not be content till he arrives at
+the spot where the bees'-nest is; it then waits quietly till the honey
+is taken, and feeds on the broken morsels of comb which fall to its
+share.
+
+[42] Eleusine Coracana.
+
+[43] It may not be altogether without interest to state that
+Livingstone could fall asleep when he wished at the very shortest
+notice. A mat, and a shady tree under which to spread it, would at any
+time afford him a refreshing sleep, and this faculty no doubt
+contributed much to his great powers of endurance.--ED.
+
+[44] When the elephant becomes confused by the yelping pack of dogs
+with which he is surrounded, the hunter stealthily approaches behind,
+and with one blow of a sharp axe hamstrings the huge beast.--ED.
+
+[45] Raphia.
+
+[46] Top of mountain (barometer) 6338 feat.
+
+[47] The experience of all African sportsmen tends towards the same
+conclusion. Vultures probably have their beats high overhead in the
+sky, too far to be seen by the eye. From this altitude they can watch
+a vast tract of country, and whenever the disturbed movements of game
+are observed they draw together, and for the first time are seen
+wheeling, about at a great height over the spot. So soon as an animal
+is killed, every tree is filled with them, but the hunter has only to
+cover the meat with boughs or reeds and the vultures are entirely at a
+loss--hidden, from view it is hidden altogether: the idea that they
+are attracted by their keen sense of smell is altogether
+erroneous,--ED.
+
+[48] These letters reached England safely.
+
+[49] It seems almost too ridiculous to believe that we have here the
+exact equivalent of the schoolboy's demonstrative "Do you see any
+green in my eye?" nevertheless it looks wonderfully like it!--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with
+    fever. Threatening attitude of Chibue's people. Continued
+    illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty
+    of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake.
+    Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama.
+    Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to
+    principal Arab Harnees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the
+    Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran.
+    Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo to the eastward, and their
+    chief, Merere. Harnees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn.
+    Departure for Ponda. Native cupping.
+
+
+_20th February, 1867._--I told the chief before starting that my heart
+was sore, because he was not sending me away so cordially as I liked.
+He at once ordered men to start with us, and gave me a brass knife
+with ivory sheath, which he had long worn, as a memorial. He explained
+that we ought to go north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately
+be obliged to turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we
+reached the Lake Tanganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground
+and rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and
+came along with us to see that all was right; and so we parted.
+
+We soon ascended the plateau, which encloses with its edge the village
+and stream of Molemba. Wild pigs are abundant, and there are marks of
+former cultivation. A short march brought us to an ooze, surrounded by
+hedges, game-traps, and pitfalls, where, as we are stiff and weak, we
+spend the night. Rocks abound of the same dolomite kind as on the
+ridge further south, between the Loangwa and Chambeze, covered, like
+them, with lichens, orchids, euphorbias, and upland vegetation,
+hard-leaved acacias, rhododendrons, masukos. The gum-copal tree, when
+perforated by a grub, exudes from branches no thicker than one's arm,
+masses of soft, gluey-looking gum, brownish yellow, and light grey, as
+much as would fill a soup-plate. It seems to yield this gum only in
+the rainy season, and now all the trees are full of sap and gum.
+
+_21st February, 1867._--A night with loud and near thunder, and much
+heavy rain, which came through the boys' sheds. Roads all plashy or
+running with water, oozes full, and rivulets overflowing; rocks of
+dolomite jutting out here and there. I noticed growing here a
+spikenard-looking shrub, six feet high, and a foot in diameter. The
+path led us west against my will. I found one going north; but the
+boys pretended that they did not see my mark, and went west, evidently
+afraid of incurring Moamba's displeasure by passing him. I found them
+in an old hut, and made the best of it by saying nothing. They said
+that they had wandered; that was, they had never left the west-going
+path.
+
+_22nd February, 1867._--We came to a perennial rivulet running north,
+the Merungu. Here we met Moamba's people, but declined going to his
+village, as huts are disagreeable; they often have vermin, and one is
+exposed to the gaze of a crowd through a very small doorway. The
+people in their curiosity often make the place dark, and the impudent
+ones offer characteristic remarks, then raise a laugh, and run away.
+
+We encamped on the Meningu's right bank in forest, sending word to
+Moamba that we meant to do so. He sent a deputation, first of all his
+young men, to bring us; then old men, and lastly he came himself with
+about sixty followers. I explained that I had become sick by living
+in a little hut at Molemba; that I was better in the open air; that
+huts contained vermin; and that I did not mean to remain any while
+here, but go on our way. He pressed us to come to his village, and
+gave us a goat and kid, with a huge calabashful of beer. I promised to
+go over and visit him next day; and went accordingly.
+
+_23rd February, 1867._--Moamba's village was a mile off, and on the
+left bank of the Merenge, a larger stream than the Merungu flowing
+north and having its banks and oozes covered with fine, tall,
+straight, evergreen trees. The village is surrounded with a stockade,
+and a dry ditch some fifteen or twenty feet wide, and as many deep. I
+had a long talk with Moamba, a big, stout, public-house-looking
+person, with a slight outward cast in his left eye, but intelligent
+and hearty. I presented him with a cloth; and he gave me as much maere
+meal as a man could carry, with a large basket of ground-nuts. He
+wished us to come to the Merenge, if not into his village, that he
+might see and talk with me: I also showed him some pictures in Smith's
+'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood, and I spoke to him
+about the Bible. He asked me "to come next day and tell him about
+prayer to God," this was a natural desire after being told that we
+prayed.
+
+He was very anxious to know why we were going to Tanganyika; for what
+we came; what we should buy there; and if I had any relations there.
+He then showed me some fine large tusks, eight feet six in length.
+"What do you wish to buy, if not slaves or ivory?" I replied, that the
+only thing I had seen worth buying was a fine fat chief like him, as a
+specimen, and a woman feeding him, as he had, with beer. He was
+tickled at this; and said that when we reached our country, I must put
+fine clothes on him. This led us to speak of our climate, and the
+production of wool.
+
+_24th February, 1867._--I went over after service, but late, as the
+rain threatened to be heavy. A case was in process of hearing, and one
+old man spoke an hour on end, the chief listening all the while with
+the gravity of a judge. He then delivered his decision in about five
+minutes, the successful litigant going off lullilooing. Each person,
+before addressing him, turns his back to him and lies down on the
+ground, clapping the hands: this is the common mode of salutation.
+Another form here in Lobemba is to rattle the arrows or an arrow on
+the bow, which all carry. We had a little talk with the chief; but it
+was late before the cause was heard through. He asked us to come and
+spend one night near him on the Merenga, and then go on, so we came
+over in the morning to the vicinity of his village. A great deal of
+copper-wire is here made, the wire-drawers using for one part of the
+process a seven-inch cable. They make very fine wire, and it is used
+chiefly as leglets and anklets; the chief's wives being laden with
+them, and obliged to walk in a stately style from the weight: the
+copper comes from Katanga.
+
+_26th February, 1867._--The chief wishes to buy a cloth with two
+goats, but his men do not bring them up quickly. Simon, one of the
+boys, is ill of fever, and this induces me to remain, though moving
+from one place to another is the only remedy we have in our power.
+
+With the chief's men we did not get on well, but with himself all was
+easy. His men demanded prepayment for canoes to cross the river
+Looembe; but in the way that he put it, the request was not
+unreasonable, as he gave a man to smooth our way, and get canoes, or
+whatever else was needed, all the way to Chibue's. I gave a cloth when
+he put it thus, and he presented a goat, a spear ornamented with
+copper-wire, abundance of meal, and beer, and numbo; so we parted good
+friends, as his presents were worth the cloth.
+
+Holding a north-westerly course we met with the Chikosho flowing
+west, and thence came to the Likombe by a high ridge called Losauswa,
+which runs a long way westward. It is probably a watershed between
+streams going to the Chambeze and those that go to the northern
+rivers.
+
+We have the Locopa, Looembe, Nikelenge, then Lofubu or Lovu; the last
+goes north into Liembe, but accounts are very confused. The Chambeze
+rises in the Mambive country, which is north-east of Moamba, but near
+to it.
+
+The forest through which we passed was dense, but scrubby; trees
+unhealthy and no drainage except through oozes. On the keel which
+forms a clay soil the rain runs off, and the trees attain a large
+size. The roads are not soured by the slow process of the ooze
+drainage. At present all the slopes having loamy or sandy soil are
+oozes, and full to overflowing; a long time is required for them to
+discharge their contents. The country generally may be called one
+covered with forest.
+
+_6th March, 1867._--We came after a short march to a village on the
+Molilanga, flowing east into the Looembe, here we meet with bananas for
+the first time, called, as in Lunda, nkonde. A few trophies from
+Mazitu are hung up: Chitapangwa had twenty-four skulls ornamenting his
+stockade. The Babemba are decidedly more warlike than any of the
+tribes south of them: their villages are stockaded, and have deep dry
+ditches round them, so it is likely that Mochimbe will be effectually
+checked, and forced to turn his energies to something else than to
+marauding.
+
+Our man from Moamba here refused to go further, and we were put on the
+wrong track by the headman wading through three marshes, each at least
+half a mile broad. The people of the first village we came to shut
+their gates on us, then came running after us; but we declined to
+enter their village: it is a way of showing their independence. We
+made our sheds on a height in spite of their protests. They said that
+the gates were shut by the boys; but when I pointed out the boy who
+had done it, he said that he had been ordered to do it by the chief.
+If we had gone in now we should have been looked on as having come
+under considerable obligations.
+
+_8th March, 1867._--We went on to a village on the Looembe, where the
+people showed an opposite disposition, for not a soul was in it--all
+were out at their farms. When the good wife of the place came she gave
+us all huts, which saved us from a pelting shower. The boys herding
+the goats did not stir as we passed down the sides of the lovely
+valley. The Looembe looks a sluggish stream from a distance. The
+herdsman said we were welcome, and he would show the crossing next
+day, he also cooked some food for us.
+
+Guided by our host, we went along the Looembe westwards till we reached
+the bridge (rather a rickety affair), which, when the water is low may
+be used as a weir. The Looembe main stream is 66 feet wide, 6 feet
+deep, with at least 200 feet of flood beyond it. The water was knee
+deep on the bridge, but clear; the flooded part beyond was waist deep
+and the water flowing fast.
+
+All the people are now transplanting tobacco from the spaces under the
+eaves of the huts into the fields. It seems unable to bear the greater
+heat of summer: they plant also a kind of liranda, proper for the cold
+weather. We thought that we were conferring a boon in giving peas, but
+we found them generally propagated all over the country already, and
+in the cold time too. We went along the Diola River to an old hut and
+made a fire; thence across country to another river, called Loendawe,
+6 feet wide, and 9 feet deep.
+
+_10th March, 1867._--I have been ill of fever ever since we left
+Moamba's; every step I take jars in the chest, and I am very weak; I
+can scarcely keep up the march, though formerly I was always first,
+and had to hold in my pace not to leave the people altogether. I have
+a constant singing in the ears, and can scarcely hear the loud tick
+of the chronometers. The appetite is good, but we have no proper food,
+chiefly maere meal or beans, or mapemba or ground-nuts, rarely a fowl.
+
+The country is full of hopo-hedges, but the animals are harassed, and
+we never see them.
+
+_11th March, 1867._.--Detained by a set-in rain. Marks on masses of
+dolomite elicited the information that a party of Londa smiths came
+once to this smelting ground and erected their works here. We saw an
+old iron furnace, and masses of haematite, which seems to have been
+the ore universally used.
+
+_12th March, 1867._--Rain held us back for some time, but we soon
+reached Chibue, a stockaded village. Like them all, it is situated by
+a stream, with a dense clump of trees on the waterside of some species
+of mangrove. They attain large size, have soft wood, and succulent
+leaves; the roots intertwine in the mud, and one has to watch that he
+does not step where no roots exist, otherwise he sinks up to the
+thigh. In a village the people feel that we are on their property, and
+crowd upon us inconveniently; but outside, where we usually erect our
+sheds, no such feeling exists, we are each on a level, and they don't
+take liberties.
+
+The Balungu are marked by three or four little knobs on the temples,
+and the lobes of the ears are distended by a piece of wood, which is
+ornamented with beads; bands of beads go across the forehead and hold
+up the hair.
+
+Chibue's village is at the source of the Lokwena, which goes N. and
+N.E.; a long range of low hills is on our N.E., which are the Mambwe,
+or part of them. The Chambeze rises in them, but further south. Here
+the Lokwena, round whose source we came on starting this morning to
+avoid wet feet, and all others north and west of this, go to the Lofu
+or Lobu, and into Liemba Lake. Those from the hills on our right go
+east into the Loanzu and so into the Lake.
+
+_15th March, 1867._--We now are making for Kasonso, the chief of the
+Lake, and a very large country all around it, passing the Lochenje,
+five yards wide, and knee deep, then to the Chanumba. All flow very
+rapidly just now and are flooded with clean water. Everyone carries an
+axe, as if constantly warring with the forest. My long-continued fever
+ill disposes me to enjoy the beautiful landscape. We are evidently on
+the ridge, but people have not a clear conception of where the rivers
+run.
+
+_19th March, 1867._--A party of young men came out of the village near
+which we had encamped to force us to pay something for not going into
+their village. "The son of a great chief ought to be acknowledged,"
+&c. They had their bows and arrows with them, and all ready for
+action. I told them we had remained near them because they said we
+could not reach Kasonso that day. Their headman had given us nothing.
+After talking a while, and threatening to do a deal to-morrow, they
+left, and through an Almighty Providence nothing was attempted. We
+moved on N.W. in forest, with long green tree-covered slopes on our
+right, and came to a village of Kasonso in a very lovely valley. Great
+green valleys were now scooped out, and many, as the Kakanza, run into
+the Lovu.
+
+_20th March, 1867._--The same features of country prevailed, indeed it
+was impossible to count the streams flowing N.W. We found Kasonso
+situated at the confluence of two streams; he shook hands a long
+while, and seems a frank sort of man. A shower of rain set the driver
+ants on the move, and about two hours after we had turned in we were
+overwhelmed by them. They are called Kalandu or Nkalanda.
+
+To describe this attack is utterly impossible. I wakened covered with
+them: my hair was full of them. One by one they cut into the flesh,
+and the more they are disturbed, the more vicious are their bites;
+they become quite insolent. I went outside the hut, but there they
+swarmed everywhere; they covered the legs, biting furiously; it is
+only when they are tired that they leave off.
+
+One good trait of the Balungu up here is, they retire when they see
+food brought to anyone, neither Babisa nor Makoa had this sense of
+delicacy: the Babemba are equally polite.
+
+We have descended considerably into the broad valley of the Lake, and
+it feels warmer than on the heights. Cloth here is more valuable,
+inasmuch as bark-cloth is scarce. The skins of goats and wild animals
+are used, and the kilt is very diminutive among the women.
+
+_22nd March, 1867._--Cross Loela, thirty feet wide and one deep, and
+meet with tsetse fly, though we have seen none since we left
+Chitapangwa's. Kasonso gave us a grand reception, and we saw men
+present from Tanganyika; I saw cassava here, but not in plenty.
+
+_28th March, 1867._--Set-in rain and Chuma fell ill. There are cotton
+bushes of very large size here of the South American kind. After
+sleeping in various villages and crossing numerous streams, we came to
+Mombo's village, near the ridge overlooking the Lake.
+
+_31st March, and 1st April, 1867._--I was too ill to march through. I
+offered to go on the 1st, but Kasonso's son, who was with us,
+objected. We went up a low ridge of hills at its lowest part, and soon
+after passing the summit the blue water loomed through the trees. I
+was detained, but soon heard the boys firing their muskets on reaching
+the edge of the ridge, which allowed of an undisturbed view. This is
+the south-eastern end of Liemba, or, as it is sometimes called,
+Tanganyika.[50] We had to descend at least 2000 feet before we got to
+the level of the Lake. It seems about eighteen or twenty miles broad,
+and we could see about thirty miles up to the north. Four considerable
+rivers flow into the space before us. The nearly perpendicular ridge
+of about 2000 feet extends with breaks all around, and there,
+embosomed in tree-covered rocks, reposes the Lake peacefully in the
+huge cup-shaped cavity.
+
+I never saw anything so still and peaceful as it lies all the morning.
+About noon a gentle breeze springs up, and causes the waves to assume
+a bluish tinge. Several rocky islands rise in the eastern end, which
+are inhabited by fishermen, who capture abundance of fine large fish,
+of which they enumerate about twenty-four species. In the north it
+seems to narrow into a gateway, but the people are miserably deficient
+in geographical knowledge, and can tell us nothing about it. They
+suspect us, and we cannot get information, or indeed much of anything
+else. I feel deeply thankful at having got so far. I am excessively
+weak--cannot walk without tottering, and have constant singing in the
+head, but the Highest will lead me further.
+
+Lat. of the spot we touched at first, 2nd April, 1867. Lat. 8 deg. 46' 54"
+S., long. 31 deg. 57'; but I only worked out (and my head is out of order)
+one set of observations. Height above level of the sea over 2800 feet,
+by boiling-point thermometers and barometer. The people won't let me
+sound the Lake.
+
+After being a fortnight at this Lake it still appears one of
+surpassing loveliness. Its peacefulness is remarkable, though at times
+it is said to be lashed up by storms. It lies in a deep basin whose
+sides are nearly perpendicular, but covered well with trees; the rocks
+which appear are bright red argillaceous schist; the trees at present
+all green: down some of these rocks come beautiful cascades, and
+buffaloes, elephants, and antelopes wander and graze on the more level
+spots, while lions roar by night. The level place below is not two
+miles from the perpendicular. The village (Pambete), at which we
+first touched the Lake, is surrounded by palm-oil trees--not the
+stunted ones of Lake Nyassa, but the real West Coast palm-oil
+tree,[51] requiring two men to carry a bunch of the ripe fruit. In the
+morning and evening huge crocodiles may be observed quietly making
+their way to their feeding grounds; hippopotami snort by night and at
+early morning.
+
+After I had been a few days here I had a fit of insensibility, which
+shows the power of fever without medicine. I found myself floundering
+outside my hut and unable to get in; I tried to lift myself from my
+back by laying hold of two posts at the entrance, but when I got
+nearly upright I let them go, and fell back heavily on my head on a
+box. The boys had seen the wretched state I was in, and hung a blanket
+at the entrance of the hut, that no stranger might see my
+helplessness; some hours elapsed before I could recognize where I was.
+
+As for these Balungu, as they are called, they have a fear of us, they
+do not understand our objects, and they keep aloof. They promise
+everything and do nothing; but for my excessive weakness we should go
+on, but we wait for a recovery of strength.
+
+As people they are greatly reduced in numbers by the Mazitu, who
+carried off very large numbers of the women, boys, girls, and
+children. They train or like to see the young men arrayed as Mazitu,
+but it would be more profitable if they kept them to agriculture. They
+are all excessively polite. The clapping of hands on meeting is
+something excessive, and then the string of salutations that accompany
+it would please the most fastidious Frenchman. It implies real
+politeness, for in marching with them they always remove branches out
+of the path, and indicate stones or stumps in it carefully to a
+stranger, yet we cannot prevail on them to lend carriers to examine
+the Lake or to sell goats, of which, however, they have very few, and
+all on one island.
+
+The Lake discharges its water north-westward or rather
+nor-north-westwards. We observe weeds going in that direction, and as
+the Lonzua, the Kowe, the Kapata, the Luaze, the Kalambwe, flow into
+it near the east end, and the Lovu or Lofubu, or Lofu, from the
+south-west near the end it must find an exit for so much water. All
+these rivers rise in or near the Mambwe country, in lat. 10 deg. S.,
+where, too, the Chambeze rises. Liemba is said to remain of about the
+same size as we go north-west, but this we shall see for ourselves.
+
+Elephants come all about us. One was breaking trees close by. I fired
+into his ear without effect: I am too weak to hold the gun steadily.
+
+_30th April, 1867._--We begin our return march from Liemba. Slept at a
+village on the Lake, and went on next day to Pambete, where we first
+touched it. I notice that here the people pound tobacco-leaves in a
+mortar after they have undergone partial fermentation by lying in the
+sun, then they put the mass in the sun to dry for use.
+
+The reason why no palm-oil trees grow further east than Pambete is
+said to be the stony soil there, and this seems a valid one, for it
+loves rich loamy meadows.
+
+_1st May, 1867._--We intended to go north-west to see whether this
+Lake narrows or not, for all assert that it maintains its breadth such
+as we see it beyond Pemba as far as they know it; but when about to
+start the headman and his wife came and protested so solemnly that by
+going N.W. we should walk into the hands of a party of Mazitu there,
+that we deferred our departure. It was not with a full persuasion of
+the truth of the statement that I consented, but we afterwards saw
+good evidence that it was true, and that we were saved from being
+plundered. These marauders have changed their tactics, for they
+demand so many people, and so many cloths, and then leave. They made
+it known that their next scene of mulcting would be Mombo's village,
+and there they took twelve people--four slaves, and many cloths, then
+went south to the hills they inhabit. A strict watch was kept on their
+movements by our headman and his men. They trust to fleeing into a
+thicket on the west of the village should the Mazitu come.
+
+I have been informed on good authority that Kasonso was on his way to
+us when news arrived that his young son had died. He had sent on beer
+and provisions for us, but the Mazitu intervening they were consumed.
+
+The Mazitu having left we departed and slept half-way up the ridge. I
+had another fit of insensibility last night: the muscles of the back
+lose all power,[52] and there is constant singing in the ears, and
+inability to do the simplest sum. Cross the Aeeze (which makes the
+waterfall) fifteen yards wide and knee deep. The streams like this are
+almost innumerable.
+
+Mombo's village. It is distressingly difficult to elicit accurate
+information about the Lake and rivers, because the people do not think
+accurately. Mombo declared that two Arabs came when we were below, and
+inquired for us, but he denied our presence, thinking thereby to save
+us trouble and harm.
+
+The cotton cultivated is of the Pernambuco species, and the bushes are
+seven or eight feet high. Much cloth was made in these parts before
+the Mazitu raids began, it was striped black and white, and many
+shawls are seen in the country yet. It is curious that this species of
+cotton should be found only in the middle of this country.
+
+In going westwards on the upland the country is level and covered
+with scraggy forest as usual, long lines of low hills or rather ridges
+of denudation run. N. and S. on our east. This is called Moami
+country, full of elephants, but few are killed. They do much damage,
+eating the sorghum in the gardens unmolested.
+
+_11th May, 1867._--A short march to-day brought us to a village on the
+same Moami, and to avoid a Sunday in the forest we remained. The
+elephants had come into the village and gone all about it, and to
+prevent their opening the corn safes the people had bedaubed them with
+elephant's droppings. When a cow would not give milk, save to its
+calf, a like device was used at Kolobeng; the cow's droppings were
+smeared on the teats, and the calf was too much disgusted to suck: the
+cow then ran till she was distressed by the milk fever and was willing
+to be relieved by the herdsman.
+
+_12th and 13th May, 1867._--News that the Arabs had been fighting with
+Nsama came, but this made us rather anxious to get northward along
+Liemba, and we made for Mokambola's village near the edge of the
+precipice which overhangs the Lake. Many Shuare Raphia palms grow in
+the river which flows past it.
+
+As we began our descent we saw the Lofu coming from the west and
+entering Liemba. A projection of Liemba comes to meet it, and then it
+is said to go away to the north or north-west as far as my informants
+knew. Some pointed due north, others north-west, so probably its true
+course amounts to N.N.W. We came to a village about 2' W. of the
+confluence, whose headman was affable and generous. The village has a
+meadow some four miles wide on the land side, in which buffaloes
+disport themselves, but they are very wild, and hide in the gigantic
+grasses. Sorghum, ground-nuts, and voandzeia grow luxuriantly. The
+Lofu is a quarter of a mile wide, but higher up three hundred yards.
+The valley was always clouded over at night so I could not get an
+observation except early in the morning when the cold had dissipated
+the clouds.
+
+We remained here because two were lame, and all tired by the descent
+of upwards of 2000 feet, and the headman sent for fish for us. He
+dissuaded us strongly from attempting to go down the Liemba, as the
+son of Nsania (Kapoma) was killing all who came that way in revenge
+for what the Arabs had done to his father's people, and he might take
+us for Arabs. A Suaheli Arab came in the evening and partly confirmed
+the statements of the headman of Karambo; I resolved therefore to go
+back to Chitimba's in the south, where the chief portion of the Arabs
+are assembled, and hear from them more certainly.
+
+The last we heard of Liemba was that at a great way north-west, it is
+dammed up by rocks, and where it surmounts these there is a great
+waterfall. It does not, it is said, diminish in size so far, but by
+bearings protracted it is two miles wide.
+
+_18th May, 1867._--Return to Mokambola's village, and leave for
+Chitimba's. Baraka stopped behind at the village, and James ran away
+to him, leaving his bundle, containing three chronometers, in the
+path: I sent back for them, and James came up in the evening; he had
+no complaint, and no excuse to make. The two think it will be easy to
+return to their own country by begging, though they could not point it
+out to me when we were much nearer to where it is supposed to be.
+
+_19th May, 1867._--Where we were brought to a standstill was miserably
+cold (55 deg.), so we had prayers and went on S. and S.W. to the village
+of Chisaka.
+
+_20th May, 1867._--Chitimba's village was near in the same direction;
+here we found a large party of Arabs, mostly black Suahelis. They
+occupied an important portion of the stockaded village, and when I
+came in, politely showed me to a shed where they are in the habit of
+meeting. After explaining whence I had come, I showed them the
+Sultan's letter. Harnees presented a goat, two fowls, and a quantity
+of flour. It was difficult to get to the bottom of the Nsama affair,
+but according to their version that chief sent an invitation to them,
+and when they arrived called for his people, who came in crowds--as he
+said to view the strangers. I suspect that the Arabs became afraid of
+the crowds and began to fire; several were killed on both sides, and
+Nsama fled, leaving his visitors in possession of the stockaded
+village and all it contained. Others say that there was a dispute
+about an elephant, and that Nsama's people were the aggressors. At any
+rate it is now all confusion; those who remain at Nsama's village help
+themselves to food in the surrounding villages and burn them, while
+Chitimba has sent for the party who are quartered here to come to him.
+An hour or two after we arrived a body of men came from Kasonso, with
+the intention of proceeding into the country of Nsama, and if possible
+catching Nsama, "he having broken public law by attacking people who
+brought merchandise into the country." This new expedition makes the
+Arabs resolve to go and do what they can to injure their enemy. It
+will just be a plundering foray--each catching what he can, whether
+animal or human, and retiring when it is no longer safe to plunder!
+
+This throws the barrier of a broad country between me and Lake "Moero"
+in the west, but I trust in Providence a way will be opened. I think
+now of going southwards and then westwards, thus making a long detour
+round the disturbed district.
+
+The name of the principal Arab is Hamees Wodim Tagh, the other is Syde
+bin Alie bin Mansure: they are connected with one of the most
+influential native mercantile houses in Zanzibar. Hamees has been
+particularly kind to me in presenting food, beads, cloth, and getting
+information. Thami bin Snaelim is the Arab to whom my goods are
+directed at Ujiji.
+
+_24th May, 1867._--At Chitimba's we are waiting to see what events
+turn up to throw light on our western route. Some of the Arabs and
+Kasonso's men went off to-day: they will bring information perhaps as
+to Nsama's haunts, and then we shall move south and thence west. Wrote
+to Sir Thomas Maclear, giving the position of Liemba and to Dr.
+Seward, in case other letters miscarry. The hot season is beginning
+now. This corresponds to July further south.
+
+Three goats were killed by a leopard close to the village in open day.
+
+_28th May, 1867._--Information came that Nsama begged pardon of the.
+Arabs, and would pay all that they had lost. He did not know of his
+people stealing from them: we shall hear in a day or two whether the
+matter is to be patched up or not. While some believe his statements,
+others say, "Nsama's words of peace are simply to gain time to make
+another stockade:" in the mean time Kasonso's people will ravage all
+his country on this eastern side.
+
+Hamees is very anxious that I should remain a few days longer, till
+Kasonso's son, Kampamba, comes with _certain_ information, and then he
+will see to our passing safely to Chiwere's village from Kasonso's.
+All have confidence in this last-named chief as an upright man.
+
+_1st June, 1867._--Another party of marauders went off this morning to
+plunder Nsama's country to the west of the confluence of the Lofu as a
+punishment for a breach of public law. The men employed are not very
+willing to go, but when they taste the pleasure of plunder they will
+relish it more!
+
+The watershed begins to have a northern slope about Moamba's, lat. 10 deg.
+10' S., but the streams are very tortuous, and the people have very
+confused ideas as to where they run. The Lokhopa, for instance, was
+asserted by all the men at Moamba's to flow into Lokholu, and then
+into a river going to Liemba, but a young wife of Moamba, who seemed
+very intelligent, maintained that Lokhopa and Lokholu went to the
+Chambeze; I therefore put it down thus. The streams which feed the
+Chambeze and the Liemba overlap each other, and it would require a
+more extensive survey than I can give to disentangle them.
+
+North of Moamba, on the Merenge, the slope begins to Liemba. The Lofu
+rises in Chibue's country, and with its tributaries we have long
+ridges of denudation, each some 500 or 600 feet high, and covered with
+green trees. The valleys of denudation enclosed by these hill ranges
+guide the streams towards Liemba or the four rivers which flow into
+it. The country gradually becomes lower, warmer, and tsetse and
+mosquitoes appear; so at last we come to the remarkable cup-shaped
+cavity in which Liemba reposes. Several streams fall down the nearly
+perpendicular cliffs, and form beautiful cascades. The lines of
+denudation are continued, one range rising behind another as far as
+the eye can reach to the north and east of Liemba, and probably the
+slope continues away down to Tanganyika. The watershed extends
+westwards to beyond Casembe, and the Luapula, or Chambeze, rises in
+the same parallels of latitude as does the Lofu and the Lonzna.
+
+The Arabs inform me that between this and the sea, about 200 miles
+distant, lies the country of the Wasango--called: Usango--a fair
+people, like Portuguese, and very friendly to strangers. The Wasango
+possess plenty of cattle: their chief is called Merere.[53] They count
+this twenty-five days, while the distance thence to the sea at
+Bagamoio is one month and twenty-five days--say 440 miles. Uchere is
+very far off northwards, but a man told me that he went to a
+salt-manufactory in that direction in eight days from Kasonso's.
+Merere goes frequently on marauding expeditions for cattle, and is
+instigated thereto by his mother.
+
+What we understand by primeval forest is but seldom seen in the
+interior here, though the country cannot be described otherwise than
+as generally covered with interminable forests. Insects kill or dwarf
+some trees, and men maim others for the sake of the bark-cloth;
+elephants break down a great number, and it is only here and there
+that gigantic specimens are seen: they may be expected in shut-in
+valleys among mountains, but on the whole the trees are scraggy, and
+the varieties not great. The different sorts of birds which sing among
+the branches seem to me to exceed those of the Zambesi region, but I
+do not shoot them: the number of new notes I hear astonishes me.
+
+The country in which we now are is called by the Arabs and natives
+Ulungu, that farther north-west is named Marunga. Hamees is on
+friendly terms with the Mazitu (Watuta) in the east, who do not
+plunder. The chief sent a man to Kasonso lately, and he having
+received a present went away highly pleased.
+
+Hamees is certainly very anxious to secure my safety. Some men came
+from the N.E. to inquire about the disturbance here and they recommend
+that I should go with them, and then up the east side of the Lake to
+Ujiji; but that would ruin my plan of discovering Moero and afterwards
+following the watershed, so as to be certain that this is either the
+watershed of the Congo or Kile. He was not well pleased when I
+preferred to go south and then westwards, as it looks like rejecting
+his counsel; but he said if I waited till his people came, then we
+should be able to speak with more certainty.
+
+On inquiring if any large mountains exist in this country, I was told
+that Moufipa, or Fipa, opposite the lower end of the Lake, is
+largest--one can see Tanganyika from it. It probably gives rise to the
+Nkalambwe River and the Luaze.
+
+There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are busy in
+preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst the women are
+cleaning or grinding their corn, which involves much hard labour. They
+first dry this in the sun, then put it into a mortar, and afterwards
+with a flat basket clean off the husks and the dust, and grind it
+between two stones, the next thing is to bring wood and water to cook
+it. The chief here was aroused the other day, and threatened to burn
+his own house and all his property because the people stole from it,
+but he did not proceed so far: it was probably a way of letting the
+Arab dependants know that he was aroused.
+
+Some of the people who went to fight attacked a large village, and
+killed several men; but in shooting in a bushy place they killed one
+of their own party and wounded another.
+
+On inquiring of an Arab who had sailed on Tanganyika which way the
+water flowed, he replied to the south!
+
+The wagtails build in the thatch of the huts; they are busy, and men
+and other animals are active in the same way.
+
+I am rather perplexed how to proceed. Some Arabs seem determined to go
+westwards as soon as they can make it up with Nsama, whilst others
+distrust him. One man will send his people to pick up what ivory they
+can, but he himself will retire to the Usango country. Nsama is
+expected to-day or to-morrow. It would be such a saving of time and
+fatigue for us to go due west rather than south, and then west, but I
+feel great hesitation as to setting out on the circuitous route.
+Several Arabs came from the Liemba side yesterday; one had sailed on
+Tanganyika, and described the winds there as very baffling, but no one
+of them has a clear idea of the Lake. They described the lower part as
+a "sea," and thought it different from Tanganyika.
+
+Close observation of the natives of Ulungu makes me believe them to
+be extremely polite. The mode of salutation among relatives is to
+place the hands round each other's chests kneeling, they then clap
+their hands close to the ground. Some more abject individuals kiss the
+soil before a chief; the generality kneel only, with the fore-arms
+close to the ground, and the head bowed down to them, saying, "O
+Ajadla chiusa, Mari a bwino." The Usanga say, "Aje senga." The
+clapping of hands to superiors, and even equals, is in some villages a
+perpetually recurring sound. Aged persons are usually saluted: how
+this extreme deference to each other could have arisen, I cannot
+conceive; it does not seem to be fear of each other that elicits it.
+Even the chiefs inspire no fear, and those cruel old platitudes about
+governing savages by fear seem unknown, yet governed they certainly
+are, and upon the whole very well. The people were not very willing to
+go to punish Nsama's breach of public law, yet, on the decision of the
+chiefs, they went, and came back, one with a wooden stool, another
+with a mat, a third with a calabash of ground-nuts or some dried meat,
+a hoe, or a bow--poor, poor pay for a fortnight's hard work hunting
+fugitives and burning villages.
+
+_16th June, 1867._--News came to-day that an Arab party in the
+south-west, in Lunda, lost about forty people by the small-pox
+("ndue"), and that the people there, having heard of the disturbance
+with Nsama, fled from the Arabs, and would sell neither ivory nor
+food: this looks like another obstacle to our progress thither.
+
+_17th-19th June, 1867._--Hamees went to meet the party from the
+south-west, probably to avoid bringing the small-pox here. They remain
+at about two hours' distance. Hamees reports that though the strangers
+had lost a great many people by small-pox, they had brought good news
+of certain Arabs still further west: one, Seide ben Umale, or Salem,
+lived at a village near Casembe, ten days distant, and another, Juma
+Merikano, or Katata Katanga, at another village further north, and
+Seide ben Habib was at Phueto, which is nearer Tanganyika. This party
+comprises the whole force of Hamees, and he now declares that he will
+go to Nsama and make the matter up, as he thinks that he is afraid to
+come here, and so he will make the first approach to friendship.
+
+On pondering over the whole subject, I see that, tiresome as it is to
+wait, it is better to do so than go south and then west, for if I
+should go I shall miss seeing Moero, which is said to be three days
+from Nsama's present abode. His people go there for salt, and I could
+not come to it from the south without being known to them, and perhaps
+considered to be an Arab. Hamees remarked that it was the Arab way
+first to smooth the path before entering upon it; sending men and
+presents first, thereby ascertaining the disposition of the
+inhabitants. He advises patience, and is in hopes of making a peace
+with Nsama. That his hopes are not unreasonable, he mentioned that
+when the disturbance began, Nsama sent men with two tusks to the
+village whence he had just been expelled, offering thereby to make the
+matter up, but the Arabs, suspecting treachery, fired upon the
+carriers and killed them, then ten goats and one tusk were sent with
+the same object, and met with a repulse; Hamees thinks that had he
+been there himself the whole matter would have been settled amicably.
+
+All complain of cold here. The situation is elevated, and we are
+behind a clump of trees on the rivulet Chiloa, which keeps the sun off
+us in the mornings. This cold induces the people to make big fires in
+their huts, and frequently their dwellings are burned. Minimum
+temperature is as low as 46 deg.; sometimes 33 deg.
+
+_24th June, 1867._--The Arabs are all busy reading their Koran, or
+Kuran, and in praying for direction; to-morrow they will call a
+meeting to deliberate as to what steps they will take in the Nsama
+affair. Hamees, it seems, is highly thought of by that chief, who
+says, "Let him come, and all will be right." Hamees proposes to go
+with but a few people. These Zanzibar men are very different from the
+slavers of the Waiyau country.
+
+_25th June, 1867._--The people, though called, did not assemble, but
+they will come to-morrow.
+
+Young wagtails nearly full-fledged took wing, leaving one in the nest;
+from not being molested by the people they took no precautions, and
+ran out of the nest on the approach of the old ones, making a loud
+chirping. The old ones tried to induce the last one to come out too,
+by flying to the nest, and then making a sally forth, turning round
+immediately to see if he followed: he took a few days longer.
+
+It was decided at the meeting that Hamees, with a few people only,
+should go to Nsama on the first day after the appearance of the new
+moon (they are very particular on this point); the present month
+having been an unhappy one they will try the next.
+
+_28th June, 1867._--A wedding took place among the Arabs to-day. About
+a hundred blank cartridges were fired off, and a procession of males,
+dressed in their best, marched through the village. They sang with all
+their might, though with but little music in the strain. Women
+sprinkled grain on their heads as wishes for plenty.[54]
+
+Nsama is said to be waiting for the Arabs in his new stockade. It is
+impossible to ascertain exactly who is to blame in this matter, for I
+hear one side only; but the fact of the chiefs in this part of the
+country turning out so readily to punish his breach of public law, and
+no remonstrance coming from him, makes me suspect that Nsama is the
+guilty party. If he had been innocent he certainly would have sent to
+ask the Bulungu, or Baeulungu, why they had attacked his people without
+cause.
+
+
+[Here is an entry concerning the tribe living far to the East.]
+
+
+The Wasongo seem much like Zulus; they go naked, and have prodigious
+numbers of cattle, which occupy the same huts with their owners. Oxen
+two shukahs each; plenty of milk. Merere is very liberal with his
+cattle, and gives every one an ox: there is no rice, but maize and
+maere. Hamees left the people to cultivate rice. Merere had plenty of
+ivory when the Arabs came first, but now has none.
+
+_1st July, 1867._--New moon to-day. They are very particular as to the
+time of offering up prayers, and in making charms. One to-night was at
+10 P.M. exactly.
+
+A number of cabalistic figures were drawn by Halfani, and it is
+believed that by these Nsama's whereabouts may be ascertained; they
+are probably remains of the secret arts which prevailed among Arabs
+before Mahomet appeared. These Suaheli Arabs appear to have come down
+the coast before that Prophet was born.
+
+_3rd July, 1867._--Kasonso's people are expected. All the captives
+that were taken are to be returned, and a quantity of cloth given to
+Nsama in addition: so far all seems right. The new moon will appear
+to-night. The Arabs count from one appearance to the next, not, as we
+do, from its conjunction with the sun to the next.
+
+_4th July, 1867._--Katawanya came from near Liemba to join the
+peacemakers. He and his party arrived at Liemba after we did; he sent
+his people all round to seek ivory; they don't care for anything but
+ivory, and cannot understand why I don't do the same.
+
+_6th July, 1867._--An earthquake happened at 3.30 P.M., accompanied
+with a hollow rumbling sound; it made me feel as if afloat, but it
+lasted only a few seconds. The boys came running to ask me what it
+was. Nowhere could it be safer; the huts will not fall, and there are
+no high rocks near. Barometer 25.0. Temperature 68 deg. 5'. Heavy cumuli
+hanging about; no rain afterwards.
+
+_7th July, 1867._--Hamees started this morning with about 300
+followers dressed in all their finery, and he declares that his sole
+object is peace. Kasonso, Mombo, Chitimba send their people, and go
+themselves to lend all their influence in favour of peace. Syde stops
+here. Before starting Syde put some incense on hot coals, and all the
+leaders of the party joined in a short prayer; they seem earnest and
+sincere in their incantations, according to their knowledge and
+belief. I wished to go too, but Hamees objected, as not being quite
+sure whether Nsama would be friendly, and he would not like anything
+to befall me when with him.
+
+_8th July, 1867._--Kasonso found an excuse for not going himself. Two
+men, Arabs it was said, came to Chibue's and were there killed, and
+Kasonso must go to see about it. The people who go carry food with
+them, evidently not intending to live by plunder this time.
+
+While the peacemakers are gone I am employing time in reading Smith's
+'Bible Dictionary,' and calculating different positions which have
+stood over in travelling. I don't succeed well in the Baeulungu
+dialect.
+
+The owners of huts lent to strangers have a great deal of toil
+in consequence; they have to clean them after the visitors have
+withdrawn; then, in addition to this, to clean themselves, all
+soiled by the dust left by the lodgers; their bodies and clothes
+have to be cleansed afterwards--they add food too in all cases of
+acquaintanceship, and then we have to remember the labour of preparing
+that food. My remaining here enables me to observe that both men and
+women are in almost constant employment. The men are making mats, or
+weaving, or spinning; no one could witness their assiduity in their
+little affairs and conclude that they were a lazy people. The only
+idle time I observe here is in the mornings about seven o'clock, when
+all come and sit to catch the first rays of the sun as he comes over
+our clump of trees, but even that time is often taken as an
+opportunity for stringing beads.
+
+I hear that some of Nsama's people crossed the Lovu at Karambo to
+plunder, in retaliation for what they have suffered, and the people
+there were afraid to fish, lest they should be caught by them at a
+distance from their stockades.
+
+The Baeulungu men are in general tall and well formed, they use bows
+over six feet in length, and but little bent. The facial angle is as
+good in most cases as in Europeans, and they have certainly as little
+of the "lark-heel" as whites. One or two of the under front teeth are
+generally knocked out in women, and also in men.
+
+_14th July, 1867._--Syde added to his other presents some more beads:
+all have been very kind, which I attribute in a great measure to Seyed
+Majid's letter. Hamees crossed the Lovu to-day at a fordable spot. The
+people on the other side refused to go with a message to Nsama, so
+Hamees had to go and compel them by destroying their stockade. A
+second village acted in the same way, though told that it was only
+peace that was sought of Nsama: this stockade suffered the same fate,
+and then the people went to Nsama, and he showed no reluctance to have
+intercourse. He gave abundance of food, pombe, and bananas; the
+country being extremely fertile. Nsama also came and ratified the
+peace by drinking blood with several of the underlings of Hamees. He
+is said to be an enormously bloated old man, who cannot move unless
+carried, and women are constantly in attendance pouring pombe into
+him. He gave Hamees ten tusks, and promised him twenty more, and also
+to endeavour to make his people return what goods they plundered from
+the Arabs, and he is to send his people over here to call us after
+the new moon appears.
+
+It is tiresome beyond measure to wait so long, but I hope to see Moero
+for this exercise of patience, and I could not have visited it had
+Hamees not succeeded in making peace.
+
+_17th July, 1867._--A lion roared very angrily at the village last
+night, he was probably following the buffaloes that sometimes come
+here to drink at night: they are all very shy, and so is all the game,
+from fear of arrows.
+
+A curious disease has attacked my left eyelid and surrounding parts: a
+slight degree of itchiness is followed by great swelling of the part.
+It must be a sort of lichen; exposure to the sun seems to cure it, and
+this leads me to take long walks therein. This is about 30 deg. 19' E.
+long.; lat. 8 deg. 57' 55" S.
+
+_24th July, 1867._--A fire broke out at 4 A.M., and there being no
+wind the straw roofs were cleared off in front of it on our side of
+the village. The granaries were easily unroofed, as the roof is not
+attached to the walls, and the Arabs tried to clear a space on their
+side, but were unable, and then moved all their ivory and goods
+outside the stockade; their side of the village was all consumed, and
+three goats perished in the flames.
+
+Chitimba has left us from a fear of his life, he says; it is probable
+that he means this flight to be used as an excuse to Nsama after we
+are gone. "And I, too, was obliged to flee from my village to save my
+life! What could I do?" This is to be his argument, I suspect.
+
+A good many slaves came from the two villages that were destroyed: on
+inquiry I was told that these would be returned when Nsama gave the
+ivory promised.
+
+When Nsama was told that an Englishman wished to go past him to Moero,
+he replied, "Bring him, and I shall send men to take him thither."
+
+Hamees is building a "tembe," or house, with a flat roof, and walls
+plastered over with mud, to keep his ivory from fire while he is
+absent. We expect that Nsama will send for us a few days after the 2nd
+August, when the new moon appears; if they do not come soon Hamees
+will send men to Nsama without waiting for his messengers.
+
+_28th July, 1867._--Prayers, with the Litany.[55] Slavery is a great
+evil wherever I have seen it. A poor old woman and child are among the
+captives, the boy about three years old seems a mother's pet. His feet
+are sore from walking in the sun. He was offered for two fathoms, and
+his mother for one fathom; he understood it all, and cried bitterly,
+clinging to his mother. She had, of course, no power to help him; they
+were separated at Karungu afterwards.
+
+[The above is an episode of every-day occurrence in the wake of the
+slave-dealer. "Two fathoms," mentioned as the price of the boy's
+life--the more valuable of the two, means four yards of unbleached
+calico, which is a universal article of barter throughout the greater
+part of Africa: the mother was bought for two yards. The reader must
+not think that there are no lower prices; in the famines which succeed
+the slave-dealer's raids, boys and girls are at times to be purchased
+by the dealer for a few handfuls of maize.]
+
+_29th July, 1867._--Went 2 1/2 hours west to village of Ponda, where a
+head Arab, called by the natives Tipo Tipo, lives; his name is Hamid
+bin Mahamed bin Juma Borajib. He presented a goat, a piece of white
+calico, and four big bunches of beads, also a bag of Holcus sorghum,
+and apologised because it was so little. He had lost much by Nsama;
+and received two arrow wounds there; they had only twenty guns at the
+time, but some were in the stockade, and though the people of Nsama
+were very numerous they beat them off, and they fled carrying the
+bloated carcase of Nsama with them. Some reported that boxes were
+found in the village, which belonged to parties who had perished
+before, but Syde assured me that this was a mistake.
+
+Moero is three days distant, and as Nsama's people go thither to
+collect salt on its banks, it would have been impossible for me to
+visit it from the south without being seen, and probably suffering
+loss.
+
+The people seem to have no family names. A man takes the name of his
+mother, or should his father die he may assume that. Marriage is
+forbidden to the first, second, and third degrees: they call first and
+second cousins brothers and sisters.
+
+A woman, after cupping her child's temples for sore eyes, threw the
+blood over the roof of her hut as a charm.
+
+[In the above process a goat's horn is used with a small hole in the
+pointed end. The base is applied to the part from which the blood is
+to be withdrawn, and the operator, with a small piece of chewed
+india-rubber in his mouth, exhausts the air, and at the proper moment
+plasters the small hole up with his tongue. When the cupping-horn is
+removed, some cuts are made with a small knife, and it is again
+applied. As a rough appliance, it is a very good one, and in great
+repute everywhere.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[50] It subsequently proved to be the southern extremity of this great
+Lake.
+
+[51] Elais, sp.(?).
+
+[52] This is a common symptom--men will suddenly lose all power in the
+lower extremities, and remain helpless where they fall.--ED.
+
+[53] The men heard in 1873 that he had been killed.
+
+[54] This comes near to the custom of throwing rice after the bride
+and bridegroom in England.--ED.
+
+[55] In his Journal the Doctor writes "S," and occasionally "Service,"
+whenever a Sunday entry occurs. We may add that at all times during
+his travels the Services of the Church of England were resorted to by
+him.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious
+    spider. Reach the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees marries
+    the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride. Conflagration in
+    Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero. Arab burial. Serious
+    illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders on the march. Reaches
+    Moero. Description of the Lake. Information concerning the
+    Chambeze and Luapula. Hears of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr.
+    Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of Livingstone's approach.
+    Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofwe. Arrives at Casembe's
+    town.
+
+
+_1st August, 1867._--Hamees sends off men to trade at Chiwere's.
+_Zikwe_ is the name for locust here. Nsige or Zige and Pansi the
+Suaheli names.
+
+A perforated stone had been placed on one of the poles which form the
+gateway into this stockade, it is oblong, seven or eight inches long
+by four broad, and bevelled off on one side and the diameter of the
+hole in the middle is about an inch and a half: it shows evidence of
+the boring process in rings. It is of hard porphyry and of a pinkish
+hue, and resembles somewhat a weight for a digging stick I saw in 1841
+in the hands of a Bushwoman: I saw one at a gateway near Kasonso's.
+The people know nothing of its use except as a charm to keep away evil
+from the village.
+
+_2nd August, 1867._--Chronometer A. stopped to-day without any
+apparent cause except the earthquake.
+
+It is probably malaria which causes that constant singing in the ears
+ever since my illness at Lake Liemba.
+
+_3rd August, 1867._--We expect a message from Nsama every day, the
+new moon having appeared on the first of this month, and he was to
+send after its appearance.
+
+_5th August, 1867._--Men came yesterday with the message that Hamees
+must wait a little longer, as Nsama had not yet got all the ivory and
+the goods which were stolen: they remained over yesterday. The
+headman, Katala, says that Lunda is eight days from Nsama or Moero,
+and in going we cross a large river called Movue, which flows into
+Luapula; another river called Mokobwa comes from the south-east into
+Moero. Itawa is the name of Nsama's country and people.
+
+A day distant from Nsama's place there is a hot fountain called "Paka
+pezhia," and around it the earth shakes at times: it is possible that
+the earthquake we felt here may be connected with this same centre of
+motion.
+
+_6th August, 1867._--The weather is becoming milder. An increase of
+cold was caused by the wind coming from the south. We have good
+accounts of the Wasongo from all the Arabs, their houses built for
+cattle are flat-roofed and enormously large; one, they say, is a
+quarter of a mile long. Merere the chief has his dwelling-house within
+it: milk, butter, cheese, are in enormous quantities; the tribe, too,
+is very large. I fear that they may be spoiled by the Arab underlings.
+
+_7th August, 1867._--Some of my people went down to Karambo and were
+detained by the chief, who said "I won't let you English go away and
+leave me in trouble with these Arabs."
+
+A slave had been given in charge to a man here and escaped, the Arabs
+hereupon went to Karambo and demanded payment from the chief there; he
+offered clothing, but they refused it, and would have a man; he then
+offered a man, but this man having two children they demanded all
+three. They bully as much as they please by their fire-arms. After
+being spoken to by my people the Arabs came away. The chief begged
+that I would come and visit him once more, for only one day, but it
+is impossible, for we expect to move directly. I sent the information
+to Hamees, who replied that they had got a clue to the man who was
+wiling away their slaves from them. My people saw others of the low
+squad which always accompanies the better-informed Arabs bullying the
+people of another village, and taking fowls and food without payment.
+Slavery makes a bad neighbourhood!
+
+Hamees is on friendly terms with a tribe of Mazitu who say that they
+have given up killing people. They lifted a great many cattle, but
+have very few now; some of them came with him to show the way to
+Kasonso's.
+
+Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business is carried
+on in Zanzibar slave-market. A man goes about calling out the price he
+wants for the slave, who walks behind him; if a woman, she is taken
+into a hut to be examined in a state of nudity.
+
+Some of the Arabs believe that meteoric stones are thrown at Satan for
+his wickedness. They believe that cannon were taken up Kilimanjaro by
+the first Arabs who came into the country, and there they lie. They
+deny that Van der Decken did more than go round a portion of the base
+of the mountain; he could not get on the mass of the mountain: all his
+donkeys and some of his men died by the cold. Hamees seems to be
+Cooley's great geographical oracle!
+
+The information one can cull from the Arabs respecting the country on
+the north-west is very indefinite. They magnify the difficulties in
+the way by tales of the cannibal tribes, where anyone dying is bought
+and no one ever buried, but this does not agree with the fact, which
+also is asserted, that the cannibals have plenty of sheep and goats.
+The Rua is about ten days west of Tanganyika, and five days beyond it
+a lake or river ten miles broad is reached; it is said to be called
+Logarawa. All the water flows northwards, but no reliance can be
+placed on the statements. Kiombo is said to be chief of Rua country.
+
+Another man asserts that Tanganyika flows northwards and forms a large
+water beyond Uganda, but no dependence can be placed on the statements
+of these half Arabs; they pay no attention to anything but ivory and
+food.
+
+_25th August, 1867._--Nsama requested the Arabs to give back his son
+who was captured; some difficulty was made about this by his captor,
+but Hamees succeeded in getting him and about nine others, and they
+are sent off to-day. We wait only for the people, who are scattered
+about the country. Hamees presented cakes, flour, a fowl and leg of
+goat, with a piece of eland meat: this animal goes by the same name
+here as at Kolobeng--"Pofu."[56]
+
+A fig-tree here has large knobs on the bark, like some species of
+acacia; and another looks like the Malolo of the Zambesi magnified. A
+yellow wood gives an odour like incense when burned.
+
+A large spider makes a nest inside the huts. It consists of a piece of
+pure white paper, an inch and a half broad, stuck flat on the wall;
+under this some forty or fifty eggs are placed, and then a quarter of
+an inch of thinner paper is put round it, apparently to fasten the
+first firmly. When making the paper the spider moves itself over the
+surface in wavy lines; she then sits on it with her eight legs spread
+over all for three weeks continuously, catching and eating any
+insects, as cockroaches, that come near her nest. After three weeks
+she leaves it to hunt for food, but always returns at night: the
+natives do not molest it.
+
+A small ant masters the common fly by seizing a wing or leg, and
+holding on till the fly is tired out; at first the fly can move about
+on the wing without inconvenience, but it is at last obliged to
+succumb to an enemy very much smaller than itself.
+
+A species of Touraco, new to me, has a broad yellow mask on the upper
+part of the bill and forehead; the topknot is purple, the wings the
+same as in other species, but the red is roseate. The yellow of the
+mask plates is conspicuous at a distance.
+
+A large callosity forms on the shoulders of the regular Unyamwesi
+porters, from the heavy weights laid on them. I have noticed them an
+inch and a half thick along the top of the shoulders. An old man was
+pointed out to me who had once carried five frasilahs (= 175 lbs.) of
+ivory from his own country to the coast.
+
+_30th August, 1867._--We marched to-day from Chitimba's village after
+three months and ten days' delay. On reaching Ponda, 2-1/2 hours
+distant, we found Tipo Tipo, or Hamidi bin Mohamad, gone on, and so we
+followed him. Passed a fine stream flowing S.W. to the Lofu. Tipo Tipo
+gave me a fine fat goat.
+
+_31st August, 1867._--Pass along a fine undulating district, with much
+country covered with forest, but many open glades, and fine large
+trees along the water-courses. We were on the northern slope of the
+watershed, and could see far. Crossed two fine rivulets. The oozes
+still full and flowing.
+
+_1st September, 1867._--We had to march in the afternoon on account of
+a dry patch existing in the direct way. We slept without water, though
+by diverging a few miles to the north we should have crossed many
+streams, but this is the best path for the whole year.
+
+Baraka went back to Tipo Tipo's village, thus putting his intention of
+begging among the Arab slaves into operation. He has only one
+complaint, and that is dislike to work. He tried perseveringly to get
+others to run away with him; lost the medicine-box, six table-cloths,
+and all our tools by giving his load off to a country lad while he
+went to collect mushrooms: he will probably return to Zanzibar, and be
+a slave to the Arab slaves after being a perpetual nuisance to us for
+upwards of a year.
+
+_2nd September, 1867._--When we reached the ford of the Lofu, we found
+that we were at least a thousand feet below Chitimba's. The last six
+hours of our march were without water, but when near to Chungu's
+village at the ford we came to fine flowing rivulets, some ten feet or
+so broad. Here we could see westwards and northwards the long lines of
+hills of denudation in Nsama's country, which till lately was densely
+peopled. Nsama is of the Babemba family. Kasonso, Chitimba, Kiwe,
+Urongwe, are equals and of one family, Urungai. Chungu is a pleasant
+person, and liberal according to his means. Large game is very
+abundant through all this country.
+
+The Lofu at the ford was 296 feet, the water flowing briskly over
+hardened sandstone flag, and from thigh to waist deep; elsewhere it is
+a little narrower, but not passable except by canoes.
+
+_4th and 5th September, 1867._--Went seven hours west of the Lofu to a
+village called Hara, one of those burned by Hamees because the people
+would not take a peaceful message to Nsama. This country is called
+Itawa, and Hara is one of the districts. We waited at Hara to see if
+Nsama wished us any nearer to himself. He is very much afraid of the
+Arabs, and well he may be, for he was until lately supposed to be
+invincible. He fell before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic
+throughout the country. The land is full of food, though the people
+have nearly all fled. The ground-nuts are growing again for want of
+reapers; and 300 people living at free-quarters make no impression on
+the food.
+
+_9th September, 1867._--Went three hours west of Hara, and came to
+Nsama's new stockade, built close by the old one burned by Tipo Tipo,
+as Hamidi bin Mohamed was named by Nsama.[57] I sent a message to
+Nsama, and received an invitation to come and visit him, but bring no
+guns. A large crowd of his people went with us, and before we came to
+the inner stockade they felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were
+concealed about my person. When we reached Nsama, we found a very old
+man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, showing that he
+was addicted to pombe: his people have to carry him. I gave him a
+cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, which he readily granted, and
+asked leave to feel my clothes and hair. I advised him to try and live
+at peace, but his people were all so much beyond the control of
+himself and headmen, that at last, after scolding them, he told me
+that he would send for me by night, and then we could converse, but
+this seems to have gone out of his head. He sent me a goat, flour, and
+pombe, and next day we returned to Hara.
+
+Nsama's people have generally small, well-chiseled features, and many
+are really handsome, and have nothing of the West Coast Negro about
+them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and greatly disfigure
+their mouths. The only difference between them and Europeans is the
+colour. Many of the men have very finely-formed heads, and so have the
+women; and the fashion of wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to
+advantage. The forehead is shaved off to the crown, the space
+narrowing as it goes up; then the back hair, is arranged into knobs of
+about ten rows.
+
+_10th September, 1867._--Some people of Ujiji have come to Nsama's to
+buy ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled
+them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, or rather
+canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands. My goods are reported
+safe, and the meat of the buffaloes which died in the way is there,
+and sun-dried. I sent a box, containing papers, books, and some
+clothes, to Ujiji.
+
+_14th September, 1867._--I remained at Hara, for I was ill, and Hamees
+had no confidence in Nsama, because he promised his daughter to wife
+by way of cementing the peace, but had not given her. Nsama also told
+Hamees to stay at Hara, and he would send him ivory for sale, but none
+came, nor do people come here to sell provisions, as they do
+elsewhere; so Hamees will return to Chitimba's, to guard his people
+and property there, and send on Syde Hamidi and his servants to
+Lopere, Kabuire, and Moero, to buy ivory. He advised me to go with
+them, as he has no confidence in Nsama; and Hamidi thought that this
+was the plan to be preferred: it would be slower, as they would
+purchase ivory on the road, but safer to pass his country altogether
+than trust myself in his power.
+
+The entire population of the country has received a shock from the
+conquest of Nsama, and their views of the comparative values of bows
+and arrows and guns have undergone a great change. Nsama was the
+Napoleon of these countries; no one could stand before him, hence the
+defeat of the invincible Nsama has caused a great panic. The Arabs say
+that they lost about fifty men in all: Nsama must have lost at least
+an equal number. The people seem intelligent, and will no doubt act on
+the experience so dearly bought.
+
+In the midst of the doubts of Hamees a daughter of Nsama came this
+afternoon to be a wife and cementer of the peace! She came riding
+"pickaback" on a man's shoulders; a nice, modest, good-looking young
+woman, her hair rubbed all over with _nkola_, a red pigment, made from
+the camwood, and much used as an ornament. She was accompanied by
+about a dozen young and old female attendants, each carrying a small
+basket with some provisions, as cassava, ground-nuts, &c. The Arabs
+were all dressed in their finery, and the slaves, in fantastic
+dresses, flourished swords, fired guns, and yelled. When she was
+brought to Hamees' hut she descended, and with her maids went into the
+hut. She and her attendants had all small, neat features. I had been
+sitting with Hamees, and now rose up and went away; as I passed him,
+he spoke thus to himself: "Hamees Wadim Tagh! see to what you have
+brought yourself!!"
+
+_15th September, 1867._--A guide had come from Nsama to take us to the
+countries beyond his territory. Hamees set off this morning with his
+new wife to his father-in-law, but was soon met by two messengers, who
+said that he was not to come yet. We now sent for all the people who
+were out to go west or north-west without reference to Nsama.
+
+_16th-18th September, 1867._--Hamidi went to Nsama to try and get
+guides, but he would not let him come into his stockade unless he came
+up to it without either gun or sword. Hamidi would not go in on these
+conditions, but Nsama promised guides, and they came after a visit by
+Hamees to Nsama, which he paid without telling any of us: he is
+evidently ashamed of his father-in-law.
+
+Those Arabs who despair of ivory invest their remaining beads and
+cloth in slaves.
+
+_20th September, 1867._--I had resolved to go to Nsama's, and thence
+to Moero to-day, but Hamees sent to say that men had come, and we were
+all to go with them on the 22nd. Nsama was so vacillating that I had
+no doubt but this was best.
+
+Hamees' wife, seeing the preparations that were made for starting,
+thought that her father was to be attacked, so she, her attendants,
+and the guides decamped by night. Hamees went again to Nsama and got
+other guides to enable us to go off at once.
+
+_22nd September, 1867._--We went north for a couple of hours, then
+descended into the same valley as that in which I found Nsama. This
+valley is on the slope of the watershed, and lies east and west: a
+ridge of dark-red sandstone, covered with trees, forms its side on the
+south. Other ridges like this make the slope have the form of a stair
+with huge steps: the descent is gradually lost as we insensibly climb
+up the next ridge. The first plain between the steps is at times
+swampy, and the paths are covered with the impressions of human feet,
+which, being hardened by the sun, make walking on their uneven surface
+very difficult. Mosquitoes again; we had lost them during our long
+stay on the higher lands behind us.
+
+_23rd September, 1867._--A fire had broken out the night after we left
+Hara, and the wind being strong, it got the upper hand, and swept away
+at once the whole of the temporary village of dry straw huts: Hamees
+lost all his beads, guns, powder, and cloth, except one bale. The news
+came this morning, and prayers were at once offered for him with
+incense; some goods will also be sent, as a little incense was. The
+prayer-book was held in the smoke of the incense while the responses
+were made. These Arabs seem to be very religious in their way: the
+prayers were chiefly to Harasji, some relative of Mohamad.
+
+_24th September, 1867._--Roused at 3 A.M. to be told that the next
+stage had no water, and we should be oppressed with the midday heat if
+we went now. We were to go at 2 P.M. Hamidi's wife being ill yesterday
+put a stop to our march on that afternoon. After the first hour we
+descended from the ridge to which we had ascended, we had then a wall
+of tree-covered rocks on our left of more than a thousand feet in
+altitude; after flanking it for a while we went up, and then along it
+northwards till it vanished in forest. Slept without a fresh supply of
+water.
+
+_25th September, 1867._--Off at 5.30 A.M., through the same well-grown
+forest we have passed and came to a village stockade, where the gates
+were shut, and the men all outside, in fear of the Arabs; we then
+descended from the ridge on which it stood, about a thousand feet,
+into an immense plain, with a large river in the distance, some ten
+miles off.
+
+_26th September, 1867._--Two and a half hours brought us to the large
+river we saw yesterday; it is more than a mile wide and full of
+papyrus and other aquatic plants and very difficult to ford, as the
+papyrus roots are hard to the bare feet, and we often plunged into
+holes up to the waist. A loose mass floated in the middle of our path;
+one could sometimes get on along this while it bent and heaved under
+the weight, but through it he would plunge and find great difficulty
+to get out: the water under this was very cold from evaporation; it
+took an hour and a half to cross it. It is called Chisera, and winds
+away to the west to fall into the Kalongosi and Moero. Many animals,
+as elephants, tahetsis, zebras, and buffaloes, graze on the long
+sloping banks of about a quarter of a mile down, while the ranges of
+hills we crossed as mere ridges now appear behind us in the south.
+
+_27th September, 1867._--The people are numerous and friendly. One
+elephant was killed, and we remained to take the ivory from the dead
+beast; buffaloes and zebras were also killed. It was so cloudy that no
+observations could be taken to determine our position, but Chisera
+rises in Lopere. Further west it is free of papyrus, and canoes are
+required to cross it.
+
+_28th September, 1867._--Two hours north brought us to the Kamosenga,
+a river eight yards wide, of clear water which ran strongly among
+aquatic plants. Hippopotami, buffalo, and zebra abound. This goes into
+the Chisera eastwards; country flat and covered with dense tangled
+bush. Cassias and another tree of the pea family are now in flower,
+and perfume the air. Other two hours took us round a large bend of
+this river.
+
+_30th September, 1867._.--We crossed the Kamosenga or another, and
+reach Karungu's. The Kamosenga divides Lopere from Itawa, the latter
+being Nsama's country; Lopere is north-west of it.
+
+_1st October, 1867._--Karungu was very much afraid of us; he kept
+every one out of his stockade at first, but during the time the Arabs
+sent forward to try and conciliate other chiefs he gradually became
+more friendly. He had little ivory to sell, and of those who had,
+Mtete or Mtema seemed inclined to treat the messengers roughly. Men
+were also sent to Nsama asking him to try and induce Mtema and
+Chikongo to be friendly and sell ivory and provisions, but he replied
+that these chiefs were not men under him, and if they thought
+themselves strong enough to contend against guns he had nothing to say
+to them. Other chiefs threatened to run away as soon as they saw the
+Arabs approaching. These were assured that we meant to pass through
+the country alone, and if they gave us guides to show us how, we
+should avoid the villages altogether, and proceed to the countries
+where ivory was to be bought; however, the panic was too great, no one
+would agree to our overtures, and at last when we did proceed a chief
+on the River Choma fulfilled his threat and left us three empty
+villages. There were no people to sell though the granaries were
+crammed, and it was impossible to prevent the slaves from stealing.
+
+_3rd-4th October, 1867._--When Chikongo heard Tipo Tipo's message
+about buying ivory he said, "And when did Tipo Tipo place ivory in my
+country that he comes seeking it?" Yet he sent a tusk and said "That
+is all I have, and he is not to come here." Their hostile actions are
+caused principally by fear. "If Nsama could not stand before the
+Malongwana or traders, how can we face them?" I wished to go on to
+Moero, but all declare that our ten guns would put all the villages to
+flight: they are terror-struck. First rains of this season on the 5th.
+
+_10th October, 1867._--I had a long conversation with Syde, who thinks
+that the sun rises and sets because the Koran says so, and he sees it.
+He asserts that Jesus foretold the coming of Mohamad; and that it was
+not Jesus who suffered on the cross but a substitute, it being
+unlikely that a true prophet would be put to death so ignominiously.
+He does not understand how we can be glad that our Saviour died for
+our sins.
+
+_12th October, 1867._--An elephant killed by Tipo Tipo's men. It is
+always clouded over, and often not a breath of air stirring.
+
+_16th October, 1867._--A great many of the women of this district and
+of Lopere have the swelled thyroid gland called _goitre_ or Derbyshire
+neck; men, too, appeared with it, and they in addition have hydrocele
+of large size.
+
+An Arab who had been long ill at Chitimba's died yesterday, and was
+buried in the evening. No women were allowed to come near. A long
+silent prayer was uttered over the corpse when it was laid beside the
+grave, and then a cloth was held over as men in it deposited the
+remains beneath sticks placed slanting on the side of the bottom of
+the grave; this keeps the earth from coming directly into contact with
+the body.
+
+A feast was made by the friends of the departed, and portions sent to
+all who had attended the funeral: I got a good share.
+
+_18th October, 1867._--The last we hear of Nsama is that he will not
+interfere with Chikongo. Two wives beat drums and he dances to them;
+he is evidently in his dotage. We hear of many Arabs to the west of
+us.
+
+_20th October, 1867._--Very ill; I am always so when I have no
+work--sore bones--much headache; then lost power over the muscles of
+the back, as at Liemba; no appetite and much thirst. The fever
+uninfluenced by medicine.
+
+_21st October, 1867._--Syde sent his men to build a new hut in a
+better situation. I hope it may be a healthful one for me.
+
+_22nd October, 1867._--The final message from Chikongo was a
+discouraging one--no ivory. The Arabs, however, go west with me as far
+as Chisawe's, who, being accustomed to Arabs from Tanganyika, will
+give me men to take me on to Moero: the Arabs will then return, and we
+shall move on.
+
+_23rd October, 1867._--Tipo Tipo gave Karungu some cloth, and this
+chief is "looking for something" to give him in return; this detains
+us one day more.
+
+When a slave wishes to change his master he goes to one whom he likes
+better and breaks a spear or a bow in his presence--the transference
+is irrevocable. This curious custom prevails on the Zambesi, and also
+among the Wanyamwesi; if the old master wishes to recover his slave
+the new one may refuse to part with him except when he gets his full
+price: a case of this kind happened here yesterday.
+
+_25th October, 1867._--Authority was found in the Koran for staying
+one day more here. This was very trying; but the fact was our guide
+from Hara hither had enticed a young slave girl to run away, and he
+had given her in charge to one of his countrymen, who turned round and
+tried to secure her for himself, and gave information about the other
+enticing her away. Nothing can be more tedious than the Arab way of
+travelling.
+
+_26th October, 1867._--We went S.W. for five hours through an
+undulating, well-wooded, well-peopled country, and quantities of large
+game. Several trees give out when burned very fine scents; others do
+it when cut. Euphorbia is abundant. We slept by a torrent which had
+been filled with muddy water by late rains. It thunders every
+afternoon, and rains somewhere as regularly as it thunders, but these
+are but partial rains; they do not cool the earth; nor fill the cracks
+made in the dry season.
+
+_27th October, 1867._--Off early in a fine drizzling rain, which
+continued for two hours, and came on to a plain about three miles
+broad, full of large game. These plains are swamps at times, and they
+are flanked by ridges of denudation some 200 or 300 feet above them,
+and covered with trees.
+
+The ridges are generally hardened sandstone, marked with madrepores,
+and masses of brown haematite. It is very hot, and we become very
+tired. There is no system in the Arab marches. The first day was five
+hours, this 3-1/2 hours; had it been reversed--short marches during
+the first days and longer afterwards--the muscles would have become
+inured to the exertion. A long line of heights on our south points to
+the valley of Nsama.
+
+_28th October, 1867._--Five hours brought us to the Choma River and
+the villages of Chifupa, but, as already mentioned, the chief and
+people had fled, and no persuasion could prevail on them to come and
+sell us food. We showed a few who ventured to come among us what we
+were willing to give for flour, but they said, "Yes, we will call the
+women and they will sell." None came.
+
+Rested all day on the banks of the Choma, which is a muddy stream
+coming from the north and going to the south-west to join the Chisera.
+It has worn itself a deep bed in the mud of its banks, and is twenty
+yards wide and in some spots waist deep, at other parts it is
+unfordable, it contains plenty of fish, and hippopotami and crocodiles
+abound. I bought a few ground-nuts at an exorbitant price, the men
+evidently not seeing that it would have been better to part with more
+at a lower price than run off and leave all to be eaten by the slaves.
+
+_30th October, 1867._--Two ugly images were found in huts built for
+them: they represent in a poor way the people of the country, and are
+used in rain-making and curing the sick ceremonies; this is the
+nearest approach to idol worship I have seen in the country.[58]
+
+_31st October, 1867._--We marched over a long line of hills on our
+west, and in five and a half hours came to some villages where the
+people sold us food willingly, and behaved altogether in a friendly
+way. We were met by a herd of buffaloes, but Syde seized my gun from
+the boy who carried it, and when the animals came close past me I was
+powerless, and not at all pleased with the want of good sense shown by
+my usually polite Arab friend.
+
+_Note_.--The Choma is said by Mohamad bin Saleh to go into Tanganyika
+(??). It goes to Kalongosi.
+
+_1st November, 1867._--We came along between ranges of hills
+considerably higher than those we have passed in Itawa or Nsama's
+country, and thickly covered with trees, some in full foliage, and
+some putting forth fresh red leaves; the hills are about 700 or 800
+feet above the valleys. This is not a district of running rills: we
+crossed three sluggish streamlets knee deep. Buffaloes are very
+numerous.
+
+The Ratel covers the buffalo droppings with earth in order to secure
+the scavenger beetles which bury themselves therein, thus he prevents
+them from rolling a portion away as usual.
+
+We built our sheds on a hillside. Our course was west and 6-1/4 hours.
+
+_2nd November, 1867._--Still in the same direction, and in an open
+valley remarkable for the numbers of a small euphorbia, which we
+smashed at every step. Crossed a small but strong rivulet, the
+Lipande, going south-west to Moero, then, an hour afterwards, crossed
+it again, now twenty yards wide and knee deep. After descending from
+the tree-covered hill which divides Lipande from Luao, we crossed the
+latter to sleep on its western bank. The hills are granite now, and a
+range on our left, from 700 to 1500 feet high, goes on all the way to
+Moero.
+
+These valleys along which we travel are beautiful. Green is the
+prevailing colour; but the clumps of trees assume a great variety of
+forms, and often remind one of English park scenery. The long line of
+slaves and carriers, brought up by their Arab employers, adds life to
+the scene, they are in three bodies, and number 450 in all. Each party
+has a guide with a flag, and when that is planted all that company
+stops till it is lifted, and a drum is beaten, and a kudu's horn
+sounded. One party is headed by about a dozen leaders, dressed with
+fantastic head-gear of feathers and beads, red cloth on the bodies,
+and skins cut into strips and twisted: they take their places in line,
+the drum beats, the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in. These sounds
+seem to awaken a sort of _esprit de corps_ in those who have once been
+slaves. My attendants now jumped up, and would scarcely allow me time
+to dress when they heard the-sounds of their childhood, and all day
+they were among the foremost. One said to me "that his feet were
+rotten with marching," and this though told that they were not called
+on to race along like slaves.
+
+The Africans cannot stand sneers. When any mishap occurs in the march
+(as when a branch tilts a load off a man's shoulder) all who see it
+set up a yell of derision; if anything is accidentally spilled, or if
+one is tired and sits down, the same yell greets him, and all are
+excited thereby to exert themselves. They hasten on with their loads,
+and hurry with the sheds they build, the masters only bringing up the
+rear, and helping anyone who may be sick. The distances travelled were
+quite as much as the masters or we could bear. Had frequent halts been
+made--as, for instance, a half or a quarter of an hour at the end of
+every hour or two--but little distress would have been felt; but five
+hours at a stretch is more than men can bear in a hot climate. The
+female slaves held on bravely; nearly all carried loads on their
+heads, the head, or lady of the party, who is also the wife of the
+Arab, was the only exception. She had a fine white shawl, with
+ornaments of gold and silver on her head. These ladies had a jaunty
+walk, and never gave in on the longest march; many pounds' weight of
+fine copper leglets above the ankles seemed only to help the sway of
+their walk: as soon as they arrive at the sleeping-place they begin to
+cook, and in this art they show a good deal of expertness, making
+savoury dishes for their masters out of wild fruits and other not very
+likely materials.
+
+_3rd November, 1867._--The ranges of hills retire as we advance; the
+soil is very rich. At two villages the people did not want us, so we
+went on and encamped near a third, Kabwakwa, where a son of Mohamad
+bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi, lives. The chief of this part
+is Muabo, but we did not see him: the people brought plenty of food
+for us to buy. The youth's father is at Casembe's. The country-people
+were very much given to falsehood--every place inquired for was
+near--ivory abundant--provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our
+headmen trusted to these statements of this young man rather, and he
+led them to desist going further. Rua country was a month distant, he
+said, and but little ivory there. It is but three days off. (We saw it
+after three days.) "No ivory at Casembe's or here in Buire, or
+Kabuire." He was right as to Casembe. Letters, however, came from
+Hamees, with news of a depressing nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is
+Mambwe. Chitimba's people are fighting for the chieftainship: great
+hunger prevails there now, the Arabs having bought up all the food.
+Moriri, a chief dispossessed of his country by Nsama, wished Hamees to
+restore his possessions, but Hamees said that he had made peace, and
+would not interfere.
+
+This unfavourable news from a part where the chief results of their
+trading were deposited, made Syde and Tipo Tipo decide to remain in
+Buire only ten or twenty days, send out people to buy what ivory they
+could find, and then, retire.
+
+As Syde and Tipo Tipo were sending men to Casembe for ivory, I
+resolved to go thither first, instead of shaping my course for Ujiji.
+
+Very many cases of goitre in men and women here: I see no reason for
+it. This is only 3350 feet above the sea.
+
+_7th November, 1867._--Start for Moero, convoyed by all the Arabs for
+some distance: they have been extremely kind. We draw near to the
+mountain-range on our left, called Kakoma, and sleep at one of
+Kaputa's villages, our course now being nearly south.
+
+_8th November, 1867._--Villages are very thickly studded over the
+valley formed by Kakoma range, and another at a greater distance on
+our right; 100 or 200 yards is a common distance between these
+villages, which, like those in Londa, or Lunda, are all shaded with
+trees of a species of _Ficus indica_. One belongs to Puta, and this
+Puta, the paramount chief, sent to say that if we slept there, and
+gave him a cloth, he would send men to conduct us next day, and ferry
+us across: I was willing to remain, but his people would not lend a
+hut, so we came on to the Lake, and no ferry. Probably he thought that
+we were going across the Lualaba into Rua.
+
+Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of mountains
+on the east and west. Its banks are of coarse sand, and slope
+gradually down to the water: outside these banks stands a thick belt
+of tropical vegetation, in which fishermen build their huts. The
+country called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of
+dark mountains: another range of less height, but more broken, stands
+along the eastern shore, and in it lies the path to Casembe. We slept
+in a fisherman's hut on the north shore. They brought a large fish,
+called "monde," for sale; it has a slimy skin, and no scales, a large
+head, with tentaculae like the Siluridie, and large eyes: the great
+gums in its mouth have a brush-like surface, like a whale's in
+miniature: it is said to eat small fish. A bony spine rises on its
+back (I suppose for defence), which is 2-1/2 inches long, and as thick
+as a quill. They are very retentive of life.
+
+The northern shore has a fine sweep like an unbent bow, and round the
+western end flows the water that makes the river Lualaba, which,
+before it enters Moero, is the Luapula, and that again (if the most
+intelligent reports speak true) is the Chambeze before it enters Lake
+Bemba, or Bangweolo.
+
+We came along the north shore till we reached the eastern flanking
+range, then ascended and turned south, the people very suspicious,
+shutting their gates as we drew near. We were alone, and only nine
+persons in all, but they must have had reason for fear. One headman
+refused us admission, then sent after us, saying that the man who had
+refused admission was not the chief: he had come from a distance, and
+had just arrived. It being better to appear friendly than otherwise,
+we went back, and were well entertained. Provisions were given when we
+went away. Flies abound, and are very troublesome; they seem to be
+attracted by the great numbers of fish caught. The people here are
+Babemba, but beyond the river Kalongosi they are all Balunda.
+
+A trade in salt is carried on from different salt springs and salt mud
+to Lunda and elsewhere. We meet parties of salt-traders daily, and
+they return our salutations very cordially, rubbing earth on the arms.
+We find our path lies between two ranges of mountains, one flanking
+the eastern shore, the other about three miles more inland, and
+parallel to it: these are covered thickly with trees, and are of
+loosely-coherent granite: many villages are in the space enclosed by
+these ranges, but all insecure.
+
+_12th November, 1867._.--We came to the Kalongosi, or, as the Arabs
+and Portuguese pronounce it, Karungwesi, about 60 yards wide, and
+flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough, even now when the rainy
+season is not commenced, to requite canoes. It is said to rise in
+Kumbi, or Afar, a country to the south-east of our ford. Fish in great
+numbers are caught when ascending to spawn: they are secured by weirs,
+nets, hooks. Large strong baskets are placed in the rapids, and filled
+with stones, when the water rises these baskets are standing-places
+for the fishermen to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed the
+Kalongosi we were now in Lunda, or Londa.
+
+_13th November, 1867._--We saw that the Kalongosi went north till it
+met a large meadow on the shores of Moero, and, turning westwards, it
+entered there. The fishermen gave us the names of 39 species of fish
+in the Lake; they said that they never cease ascending the Kalongosi,
+though at times they are more abundant than at others: they are as
+follows.
+
+    Monde; Mota; Lasa; Kasibe; Molobe; Lopembe; Motoya; Chipansa;
+    Mpifu; Manda; Mpala; Moombo; Mfeu; Mende; Seuse; Kadia nkololo;
+    Etiaka; Nkomo; Lifisha; Sambamkaka; Ntondo; Sampa; Bongwe;
+    Mabanga; Kise; Kuanya; Nkosu; Pale; Mosungu; Litembwa;
+    Mechebere; Koninchia; Sipa; Lomembe; Molenga; Mironge; Nfindo;
+    Pende.
+
+_14th November, 1867._--Being doubtful as to whether we were in the
+right path, I sent to a village to inquire. The headman, evidently
+one of a former Casembe school, came to us full of wrath. "What right
+had we to come that way, seeing the usual path was to our left?" He
+mouthed some sentences in the pompous Lunda style, but would not show
+us the path; so we left him, and after going through a forest of large
+trees, 4-1/2 hours south, took advantage of some huts on the Kifurwa
+River, built by bark-cloth cutters.
+
+_15th November, 1867._--Heavy rains, but we went on, and found a
+village, Kifurwa, surrounded by cassava fields, and next day crossed
+the Muatoze, 25 yards wide, and running strongly towards Moero, knee
+deep. The River Kabukwa, seven yards wide, and also knee deep, going
+to swell the Muatoze.
+
+We now crossed a brook, Chirongo, one yard wide and one deep; but our
+march was all through well-grown forest, chiefly gum-copal trees and
+bark-cloth trees. The gum-copal oozes out in abundance after or during
+the rains, from holes a quarter of an inch in diameter, made by an
+insect: it falls, and in time sinks into the soil, a supply for future
+generations. The small well-rounded features of the people of Nsama's
+country are common here, as we observe in the salt-traders and
+villages; indeed, this is the home of the Negro, and the features such
+as we see in pictures of ancient Egyptians, as first pointed out by
+Mr. Winwood Reade. We sleep by the river Mandapala, 12 yards wide, and
+knee deep.
+
+_18th November, 1867._--We rest by the Kabusi, a sluggish narrow
+rivulet. It runs into the Chungu, a quarter of a mile off. The Chungu
+is broad, but choked with trees and aquatic plants: Sapotas,
+Eschinomenas, Papyrus, &c. The free stream is 18 yards wide, and waist
+deep. We had to wade about 100 yards, thigh and waist deep, to get to
+the free stream.
+
+On this, the Chungu, Dr. Lacerda died; it is joined by the Mandapala,
+and flows a united stream into Moero. The statements of the people are
+confused, but the following is what I have gleaned from many. There
+were some Ujiji people with the Casembe of the time. The Portuguese
+and Ujijians began to fight, but Casembe said to them and the
+Portuguese, "You are all my guests, why should you fight and kill each
+other?" He then gave Lacerda ten slaves, and men to live with him and
+work at building huts, bringing firewood, water, &c. He made similar
+presents to the Ujijians, which quieted them. Lacerda was but ten days
+at Chungu when he died. The place of his death was about 9 deg. 32', and
+not 8 deg. 43' as in Mr. Arrowsmith's map. The feud arose from one of
+Lacerda's people killing an Ujijian at the water: this would certainly
+be a barrier to their movements.
+
+Palm-oil trees are common west of the Chungu, but none appeared east
+of it. The oil is eaten by the people, and is very nice and sweet.
+This is remarkable, as the altitude above the sea is 3350 feet.
+
+Allah is a very common exclamation among all the people west of Nsama.
+By advice of a guide whom we picked up at Kifurwa, we sent four
+fathoms of calico to apprise Casembe of our coming: the Arabs usually
+send ten fathoms; in our case it was a very superfluous notice, for
+Casembe is said to have been telegraphed to by runners at every stage
+of our progress after crossing the Kalongosi.
+
+We remain by the Chungu till Casembe sends one of his counsellors to
+guide us to his town. It has been so perpetually clouded over that we
+have been unable to make out our progress, and the dense forest
+prevented us seeing Moero as we wished: rain and thunder perpetually,
+though the rain seldom fell where we were.
+
+I saw pure white-headed swallows _(Psalidoprocne albiceps)_ skimming
+the surface of the Chungu as we crossed it. The soil is very rich.
+Casembe's ground-nuts are the largest I have seen, and so is the
+cassava. I got over a pint of palm oil for a cubit of calico.
+
+A fine young man, whose father had been the Casembe before this one,
+came to see us; he is in the background now, otherwise he would have
+conducted us to the village: a son or heir does not succeed to the
+chieftainship here.
+
+_21st November, 1867._--The River Lunde was five miles from Chungu. It
+is six yards wide where we crossed it, but larger further down;
+springs were oozing out of its bed: we then entered on a broad plain,
+covered with bush, the trees being all cleared off in building a
+village. When one Casembe dies, the man who succeeds him invariably
+removes and builds his pembwe, or court, at another place: when Dr.
+Lacerda died, the Casembe moved to near the north end of the Mofwe.
+There have been seven Casembes in all. The word means a _general_.
+
+The plain extending from the Lunde to the town of Casembe is level,
+and studded pretty thickly with red anthills, from 15 to 20 feet high.
+Casembe has made a broad path from his town to the Lunde, about a
+mile-and-a-half long, and as broad as a carriage-path. The chief's
+residence is enclosed in a wall of reeds, 8 or 9 feet high, and 300
+yards square, the gateway is ornamented with about sixty human skulls;
+a shed stands in the middle of the road before we come to the gate,
+with a cannon dressed in gaudy cloths. A number of noisy fellows
+stopped our party, and demanded tribute for the cannon; I burst
+through them, and the rest followed without giving anything: they were
+afraid of the English. The town is on the east bank of the Lakelet
+Mofwe, and one mile from its northern end. Mohamad bin Saleh now met
+us, his men firing guns of welcome; he conducted us to his shed of
+reception, and then gave us a hut till we could build one of our own.
+Mohamad is a fine portly black Arab, with a pleasant smile, and pure
+white beard, and has been more than ten years in these parts, and
+lived with four Casembes: he has considerable influence here, and also
+on Tanganyika.
+
+An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogharib, who arrived seven days before us
+with an immense number of slaves, presented a meal of vermicelli, oil,
+and honey, also cassava meal cooked, so as to resemble a sweet meat (I
+had not tasted honey or sugar since we left Lake Nyassa, in September
+1866): they had coffee too.
+
+Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people are
+confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively cultivated,
+indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is impossible to
+know which is town and which is country: every hut has a plantation
+around it, in which is grown cassava, Holcus sorghum, maize, beans,
+nuts.
+
+Mohamad gives the same account of the River Luapula and Lake Bemba
+that Jumbe did, but he adds, that the Chambeze, where we crossed it,
+_is_ the Luapula before it enters Bemba or Bangweolo: on coming out of
+that Lake it turns round and comes away to the north, as Luapula, and,
+without touching the Mofwe, goes into Moero; then, emerging thence at
+the north-west end it becomes Lualaba, goes into Rua, forms a lake
+there, and afterwards goes into another lake beyond Tanganyika.
+
+The Lakelet Mofwe fills during the rains and spreads westward, much
+beyond its banks. Elephants wandering in its mud flats when covered
+are annually killed in numbers: if it were connected with the Lake
+Moero the flood would run off.
+
+Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped and hands lopped
+off: the present chief has been often guilty of this barbarity. One
+man has just come to us without ears or hands: he tries to excite our
+pity making a chirruping noise, by striking his cheeks with the
+stumps of his hands.
+
+A dwarf also, one Zofu, with backbone broken, comes about us: he talks
+with an air of authority, and is present at all public occurrences:
+the people seem to bear with him. He is a stranger from a tribe in the
+north, and works in his garden very briskly: his height is 3 feet 9
+inches.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[56] Chefu amongst the Manganja. Any animal possessing strength, has
+the terminal "fu" or "vu;" thus Njobvu, an elephant; M'vu, the
+hippopotamus.--ED.
+
+[57] The natives are quick to detect a peculiarity in a man, and give
+him a name accordingly: the conquerors of a country try to forestall
+them by selecting one for themselves. Susi states that when Tipo Tipo
+stood over the spoil taken from Nsama, he gathered it closer together
+and said, "Now I am Tipo Tipo," that is, "the gatherer together of
+wealth." Kumba Kumba, of whom we shall hear much, took his name from
+the number of captives he gathered in his train under similar
+circumstances; it might be translated, "the collector of people."--ED.
+
+[58] It is on the West Coast alone that idols are really worshipped in
+Africa.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Grand reception of the traveller. Casenibe and his wife. Long
+    stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwawata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Saleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.
+
+
+_24th November, 1867._--We were called to be presented to Casembe in a
+grand reception.
+
+The present Casembe has a heavy uninteresting countenance, without
+beard or whiskers, and somewhat of the Chinese type, and his eyes have
+an outward squint. He smiled but once during the day, and that was
+pleasant enough, though the cropped ears and lopped hands, with human
+skulls at the gate, made me indisposed to look on anything with
+favour. His principal wife came with her attendants, after he had
+departed, to look at the Englishman (Moenge-rese). She was a fine,
+tall, good-featured lady, with two spears in her hand; the principal
+men who had come around made way for her, and called on me to salute:
+I did so; but she, being forty yards off, I involuntarily beckoned her
+to come nearer: this upset the gravity of all her attendants; all
+burst into a laugh, and ran off.
+
+Casembe's smile was elicited by the dwarf making some uncouth antics
+before him. His executioner also came forward to look: he had a broad
+Lunda sword on his arm, and a curious scizzor-like instrument at his
+neck for cropping ears. On saying to him that his was nasty work, he
+smiled, and so did many who were not sure of their ears a moment: many
+men of respectability show that at some former time they have been
+thus punished. Casembe sent us another large basket of fire-dried fish
+in addition to that sent us at Chungu, two baskets of flour, one of
+dried cassava, and a pot of pombe or beer. Mohamad, who was accustomed
+to much more liberal Casembes, thinks this one very stingy, having
+neither generosity nor good sense; but as we cannot consume all he
+gives, we do not complain.
+
+_27th November, 1867._--Casembe's chief wife passes frequently to her
+plantation, carried by six, or more commonly by twelve men in a sort
+of palanquin: she has European features, but light-brown complexion. A
+number of men run before her, brandishing swords and battle-axes, and
+one beats a hollow instrument, giving warning to passengers to clear
+the way: she has two enormous pipes ready filled for smoking. She is
+very attentive to her agriculture; cassava is the chief product; sweet
+potatoes, maize, sorghum, pennisetum, millet, ground-nuts, cotton. The
+people seem more savage than any I have yet seen: they strike each
+other barbarously from mere wantonness, but they are civil enough to
+me.
+
+Mohamad bin Saleh proposes to go to Ujiji next month. He waited when
+he heard of our coming, in order that we might go together: he has a
+very low opinion of the present chief. The area which has served for
+building the chief town at different times is about ten miles in
+diameter.
+
+Mofwe is a shallow piece of water about two miles broad, four or less
+long, full of sedgy islands, the abodes of waterfowl, but some are
+solid enough to be cultivated. The bottom is mud, though sandy at the
+east shore: it has no communication with the Luapula. _(28th
+November, 1867._) The Lunde, Chungu, and Mandapala are said to join
+and flow into Moero. Fish are in great abundance (perch). On the west
+side there is a grove of palm-oil palms, and beyond west rises a long
+range of mountains of the Rua country 15 or 20 miles off.
+
+_1st December, 1867._--An old man named Perembe is the owner of the
+land on which Casembe has built. They always keep up the traditional
+ownership. Munongo is a brother of Perembe, and he owns the country
+east of the Kalongosi: if any one wished to cultivate land he would
+apply to these aboriginal chiefs for it.
+
+I asked a man from Casembe to guide me to south end of Moero, but he
+advised me not to go as it was so marshy. The Lunde forms a marsh on
+one side, and the Luapula lets water percolate through sand and mud,
+and so does the Robukwe, which makes the path often knee deep. He said
+he would send men to conduct me to Moero, a little further down, and
+added that we had got very little to eat from him, and he wanted to
+give more. Moero's south end is about 9 deg. 30' S.
+
+Old Perembe is a sensible man: Mohamad thinks him 150 years old. He is
+always on the side of liberality and fairness; he says that the first
+Casembe was attracted to Mofwe by the abundance of fish in it. He has
+the idea of all men being derived from a single pair.
+
+_7th December, 1867._--It is very cloudy here; no observations can be
+made, as it clouds over every afternoon and night. _(8th and 11th
+December, 1867._) Cleared off last night, but intermittent fever
+prevented my going out.
+
+_13th December, 1867._--Set-in rains. A number of fine young girls who
+live in Casembe's compound came and shook hands in their way, which is
+to cross the right over to your left, and clasp them; then give a few
+claps with both hands, and repeat the crossed clasp: they want to
+tell their children that they have seen me.
+
+_15th December, 1867._--To-day I announced to Casembe our intention of
+going away. Two traders got the same return present from him that I
+did, namely, one goat and some fish, meal and cassava. I am always ill
+when not working; I spend my time writing letters, to be ready when we
+come to Ujiji. _(18th December, 1867._) We have been here a month, and
+I cannot get more than two lunars: I got altitudes of the meridian of
+stars north and south soon after we came, but not lunars. Casembe sent
+a big basket of fire-dried fish, two pots of beer, and a basket of
+cassava, and says we may go when we choose.
+
+_19th December, 1867._--On going to say good-bye to Casembe, he tried
+to be gracious, said that we had eaten but little of his food; yet he
+allowed us to go. He sent for a man to escort us; and on the _22nd
+December, 1867._ we went to Lunde River, crossed it, and went on to
+sleep at the Chungu, close by the place where Casembe's court stood
+when Dr. Lacerda came, for the town was moved further west as soon as
+the Doctor died. There are many palm-oil palms about, but no tradition
+exists of their introduction.
+
+_23rd December, 1867._--We crossed the Chungu. Rain from above, and
+cold and wet to the waist below, as I do not lift my shirt, because
+the white skin makes all stare. I saw black monkeys at this spot. The
+Chungu is joined by the Kaleusi and the Mandapala before it enters
+Moero. Casembe said that the Lunde ran into Mofwe; others denied this,
+and said that it formed a marsh with numbers of pools in long grass;
+but it may ooze into Mofwe thus. Casembe sent three men to guide me to
+Moero.
+
+_24th December, 1867._--Drizzly rain, and we are in a miserable spot
+by the Kabusi, in a bed of brakens four feet high. The guides won't
+stir in this weather. I gave beads to buy what could be got for
+Christmas.
+
+_25th December, 1867._--Drizzly showers every now and then; soil,
+black mud.
+
+About ten men came as guides and as a convoy of honour to Mohamad.
+
+_27th December, 1867._--In two hours we crossed Mandapala, now waist
+deep. This part was well stocked with people five years ago, but
+Casembe's severity in cropping ears and other mutilations, selling the
+children for slight offences, &c., made them all flee to neighbouring
+tribes; and now, if he sent all over the country, he could not collect
+a thousand men.
+
+[Livingstone refers (on the 15th Dec.) to some writings he was engaged
+upon, and we find one of them here in his journal which takes the form
+of a despatch to Lord Clarendon, with a note attached to the effect
+that it was not copied or sent, as he had no paper for the purpose. It
+affords an epitomised description of his late travels, and the stay at
+Casembe, and is inserted here in the place of many notes written
+daily, but which only repeat the same events and observations in a
+less readable form. It is especially valuable at this stage of his
+journal, because it treats on the whole geography of the district
+between Lakes Nyassa and Moero, with a broad handling which is
+impossible in the mere jottings of a diary.]
+
+    Town Of Casembe, _10th December, 1867._.
+
+    Lat. 9 deg. 37' 13" South; long. 28 deg. East.
+
+    The Right Honourable the Earl of Clarendon.
+
+    My Lord,--The first opportunity I had of sending a letter to the
+    coast occurred in February last, when I was at a village called
+    Molemba (lat. 10 deg. 14' S.; long. 31 deg. 46' E.), in the country
+    named Lobemba. Lobisa, Lobemba, Ulungu and Itawa-Lunda are the
+    names by which the districts of an elevated region between the
+    parallels 11 deg. and 8 deg. south, and meridians 28 deg.-33 deg.
+    long. east, are known. The altitude of this upland is from 4000 to
+    6000 feet above the level of the sea. It is generally covered with
+    forest, well watered by numerous rivulets, and comparatively cold.
+    The soil is very rich, and yields abundantly wherever cultivated.
+    This is the watershed between the Loangwa, a tributary of the
+    Zambesi, and several rivers which flow towards the north. Of the
+    latter, the most remarkable is the Chambeze, for it assists in
+    the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times
+    in the five or six hundred miles of its course.
+
+    On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded
+    northwards, perceived by the barometers and the courses of
+    numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction. A
+    friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that I
+    wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his country, gave his
+    son with a large escort to guide me thither; and on the 2nd
+    April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in
+    which the Lake reposes. The descent is 2000 feet, and still the
+    surface of the water is upwards of 2500 feet above the level of
+    the sea. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes
+    the rocks run the whole 2000 feet sheer down to the water.
+    Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the
+    cliffs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered with
+    well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks protrude.
+    The scenery is extremely beautiful. The "Aeasy," a stream of 15
+    yards broad and thigh deep, came down alongside our precipitous
+    path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These,
+    with the bright red of the clay schists among the
+    greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause and
+    remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants abound
+    on the steep slopes; and hippopotami, crocodiles, and fish
+    swarm in the water. Gnus are here unknown, and these animals may
+    live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The elephants
+    sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap their big ears
+    just outside the village stockades. One got out of our way on to
+    a comparatively level spot, and then stood and roared at us.
+    Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of man.
+
+    The first village we came to on the banks of the Lake had a
+    grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm tree was
+    not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the
+    fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to carry
+    it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast.
+    Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate
+    the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. The Lake is not large,
+    from 15 to 20 miles broad, and from 30 to 40 long. It is the
+    receptacle of four considerable streams, and sends out an arm
+    two miles broad to the N.N.W., it is said to Tanganyika, and it
+    may be a branch of that Lake. One of the streams, the Lonzua,
+    drives a smooth body of water into the Lake fifty yards broad
+    and ten fathoms deep, bearing on its surface duckweed and grassy
+    islands. I could see the mouths of other streams, but got near
+    enough to measure the Lofu only; and at a ford fifty miles from
+    the confluence it was 100 yards wide and waist deep in the dry
+    season.
+
+    We remained six weeks on the shores of the Lake, trying to pick
+    up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into Ulungu
+    after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had
+    preceded them, naturally inquired where I was. But our friends,
+    the Baeulungu, suspecting that mischief was meant, stoutly denied
+    that they had ever seen anything of the sort; and then became
+    very urgent that I should go on to one of the inhabited islands
+    for safety. I regret that I suspected them of intending to make
+    me a prisoner there, which they could easily have done by
+    removing the canoes; but when the villagers who deceived the
+    Arabs told me afterwards with an air of triumph how nicely they
+    had managed, I saw that they had only been anxious for my
+    safety. On three occasions the same friendly disposition was
+    shown; and when we went round the west side of the Lake in order
+    to examine the arm or branch above referred to, the headman at
+    the confluence of the Lofu protested so strongly against my
+    going--the Arabs had been fighting, and I might be mistaken for
+    an Arab, and killed--that I felt half-inclined to believe him.
+    Two Arab slaves entered the village the same afternoon in search
+    of ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered our
+    course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by
+    the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that the
+    head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles further. They had found
+    ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a
+    chief named, Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They
+    were now at a loss which way to turn. On reaching Chitimba's
+    village (lat. 8 deg. 57' 55" S.; long. 30 deg. 20' E.), I found them
+    about 600 in all; and, on presenting a letter I had from the
+    Sultan of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions,
+    beads, and cloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the
+    south of Nsama's country, but advised waiting till the effects
+    of punishment, which the Baeulungu had resolved to inflict on
+    Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It had always been
+    understood that whoever brought goods into the country was to be
+    protected; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son
+    of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was
+    anticipated that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would
+    leave me a free passage through his country; if to the south, I
+    might be saved from walking into his hands. But it turned out
+    that Nsama was anxious for peace. He had sent two men with
+    elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation; but treachery was
+    suspected, and they were shot down. Another effort was made with
+    ten goats, and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head
+    Arabs. It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods were not all
+    sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's country, and without peace
+    no ivory could be bought, nor could I reach the Lake. The
+    peace-making between the people and Arabs was, however, a
+    tedious process, occupying three and a half months--drinking
+    each other's blood. This, as I saw it west of this in 1854, is
+    not more horrible than the thirtieth dilution of deadly
+    night-shade or strychnine is in homoeopathy. I thought that had
+    I been an Arab I could easily swallow that, but not the next
+    means of cementing the peace--marrying a black wife. Nsama's
+    daughter was the bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came
+    riding pickaback on a man's shoulders: this is the most
+    dignified conveyance that chiefs and their families can command.
+    She had ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of
+    provisions, and all having the same beautiful features as
+    herself. She was taken by the principal Arab, but soon showed
+    that she preferred her father to her husband, for seeing
+    preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she suspected
+    that her father was to be attacked, and made her escape. I then,
+    visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming near
+    him, took only three of my eight attendants. His people were
+    very much afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see
+    if I had any concealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with
+    head and face like those sculptured on the Assyrian monuments.
+    He has been a great conqueror in his time, and with bows and
+    arrows was invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native
+    traders from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from
+    his own stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country.
+    He was much taken with my hair and woollen clothing; but his
+    people, heedless of his scolding, so pressed upon us that we
+    could not converse, and, after promising to send for me to talk
+    during the night, our interview ended. He promised guides to
+    Moero, and sent us more provisions than we could carry; but
+    showed so much distrust, that after all we went without his
+    assistance.
+
+    Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the men have
+    as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of
+    Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and feet.
+    None of the West-coast ugliness, from which most of our ideas of
+    the Negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous jaws
+    nor lark-heels offended the sight. My observations deepened the
+    impression first obtained from the remarks of Winwood Reade,
+    that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient Egyptian, and not
+    in the ungainly forms; which grow up in the unhealthy swamps of
+    the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that this upland forest
+    region is the true home of the Negro. The women excited the
+    admiration of the Arabs. They have fine, small, well-formed
+    features: their great defect is one of fashion, which does not
+    extend to the next tribe; they file their teeth to points, the
+    hussies, and that makes their smile like that of the crocodile.
+
+    Nsama's country is called Itawa, and his principal town is in
+    lat. 8 deg. 55' S., and long. 29 deg. 21' E. From the large population
+    he had under him, Itawa is in many parts well cleared of trees
+    for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu, being generally
+    about 3000 feet above the sea. Long lines of tree-covered hills
+    raised some 600 or 700 feet above these valleys of denudation,
+    prevent the scenery from being monotonous. Large game is
+    abundant. Elephants, buffaloes, and zebras grazed in large
+    numbers on the long sloping, banks of a river called Chisera, a
+    mile and a half broad. In going north we crossed this river, or
+    rather marsh, which is full of papyrus plants and reeds. Our
+    ford was an elephant's path; and the roots of the papyrus,
+    though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore to feet
+    usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink and
+    flounder into holes chest deep. The Chisera forms a larger marsh
+    west of this, and it gives off its water to the Kalongosi, a
+    feeder of Lake Moero.
+
+    The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory; but
+    their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the tribes
+    which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had been routed
+    by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before them but Casembe;
+    and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people not to allow
+    the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country. They did not
+    attempt to force their way, but after sending friendly messages
+    and presents to different chiefs, when these were not cordially
+    received, turned off in some other direction, and at last,
+    despairing of more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last
+    they were extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to
+    the Sultan's letter. I am glad that I was witness to their mode
+    of trading in ivory and slaves. It formed a complete contrast to
+    the atrocious dealings of the Kilwa traders, who are supposed to
+    be, but are not, the subjects of the same Sultan. If one wished
+    to depict the slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather
+    least objectionable, form, he would accompany these gentlemen
+    subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he would describe the
+    land traffic in its most disgusting phases he would follow the
+    Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or the Portuguese
+    half-castes from Tette to the River Shire.
+
+    Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving westwards,
+    our small party reached the north end of Moero on the 8th
+    November last. There the Lake is a goodly piece of water twelve
+    or more miles broad, and flanked on the east and west by ranges
+    of lofty tree-covered mountains. The range on the west is the
+    highest, and is part of the country called Rua-Moero; it gives
+    off a river at its north-west end called Lualaba, and receives
+    the River Kalongosi (pronounced by the Arabs Karungwesi) on the
+    east near its middle, and the rivers Luapula and Rovukwe at its
+    southern extremity. The point of most interest in Lake Moero is
+    that it forms one of a chain of lakes, connected by a river some
+    500 miles in length. First of all the Chambeze rises in the
+    country of Mambwe, N.E. of Molemba. It then flows south-west and
+    west till it reaches lat. 11 deg. S., and long. 29 deg. E., where it
+    forms Lake Bemba or Bangweolo, emerging thence it assumes the
+    new name Luapula, and comes down here to fall into Moero. On
+    going out of this Lake it is known by the name Lualaba, as it
+    flows N.W. in Rua to form another Lake with many islands called
+    Urenge or Ulenge. Beyond this, information is not positive as to
+    whether it enters Tanganyika or another Lake beyond that. When I
+    crossed the Chambeze, the similarity of names led me to imagine
+    that this was a branch of the Zambesi. The natives said, "No.
+    This goes south-west, and forms a very large water there." But I
+    had become prepossessed with the idea that Lake Liemba was that
+    Bemba of which I had heard in 1863, and we had been so starved
+    in the south that I gladly set my face north. The river-like
+    prolongation of Liemba might go to Moero, and where I could not
+    follow the arm of Liemba. Then I worked my way to this Lake.
+    Since coming to Casembe's the testimony of natives and Arabs has
+    been so united and consistent, that I am but ten days from Lake
+    Bemba, or Bangweolo, that I cannot doubt its accuracy. I am so
+    tired of exploration without a word from home or anywhere else
+    for two years, that I must go to Ujiji on Tanganyika for letters
+    before doing anything else. The banks and country adjacent to
+    Lake Bangweolo are reported to be now very muddy and very
+    unhealthy. I have no medicine. The inhabitants suffer greatly
+    from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and
+    elephantiasis, and this is the rainy season and very unsafe for
+    me.
+
+    When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that it
+    was thought well to ascertain the length of the Lake, and see
+    Casembe too. We came up between the double range that flanks the
+    east of the Lake; but mountains and plains are so covered with
+    well-grown forest that we could seldom see it. We reached
+    Casembe's town on the 28th November. It stands near the north
+    end of the Lakelet Mofwe; this is from one to three miles broad,
+    and some six or seven long: it is full of sedgy islands, and
+    abounds in fish. The country is quite level, but fifteen or
+    twenty miles west of Mofwe we see a long range of the mountains
+    of Rua. Between this range and Mofwe the Luapula flows past into
+    Moero, the Lake called Moero okata = the great Moero, being
+    about fifty miles long. The town of Casembe covers a mile square
+    of cassava plantations, the huts being dotted over that space.
+    Some have square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been
+    made at arrangement: it might be called a rural village rather
+    than a town. No estimate could be formed by counting the huts,
+    they were so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava; but my
+    impression from other collections of huts was that the
+    population was under a thousand souls. The court or compound of
+    Casembe--some would call it a palace--is a square enclosure of
+    300 yards by 200 yards. It is surrounded by a hedge of high
+    reeds. Inside, where Casembe honoured me with a grand reception,
+    stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for
+    domestics. The Queen's hut stands behind that of the chief, with
+    a number of small huts also. Most of the enclosed space is
+    covered with a plantation of cassava, _Curcus purgaris_, and
+    cotton. Casembe sat before his hut on a equate seat placed on
+    lion and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and
+    white Manchester print edged with red baize, and arranged in
+    large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on wrong side
+    foremost. His arms, legs and head were covered with sleeves,
+    leggings and cap made of various coloured beads in neat
+    patterns: a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap. Each of
+    his headmen came forward, shaded by a huge, ill-made umbrella,
+    and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to Casembe, and
+    sat down on his right and left: various bands of musicians did
+    the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and an old
+    counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as full an
+    account as he had been able to gather during our stay of the
+    English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My having
+    passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe, and visited chiefs
+    of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most attention. He
+    then assured me that I was welcome to his country, to go where I
+    liked, and do what I chose. We then went (two boys carrying his
+    train behind him) to an inner apartment, where the articles of
+    my present were exhibited in detail. He had examined them
+    privately before, and we knew that he was satisfied. They
+    consisted of eight yards of orange-coloured serge, a large
+    striped tablecloth; another large cloth made at Manchester in
+    imitation of West Coast native manufacture, which never fails to
+    excite the admiration of Arabs and natives, and a large richly
+    gilded comb for the back hair, such as ladies wore fifty years
+    ago: this was given to me by a friend at Liverpool, and as
+    Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair into large knobs
+    behind, I was sure that this article would tickle the fancy.
+    Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again bade me welcome.
+
+    I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from selling
+    his people as slaves. He listened awhile, then broke off into a
+    tirade on the greatness of his country, his power and dominion,
+    which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been here for ten years,
+    turned into ridicule, and made the audience laugh by telling how
+    other Lunda chiefs had given me oxen and sheep, while Casembe
+    had only a poor little goat and some fish to bestow. He insisted
+    also that there were but two sovereigns in the world, the Sultan
+    of Zanzibar and Victoria. When we went on a third occasion to
+    bid Casembe farewell, he was much less distant, and gave me the
+    impression that I could soon become friends with him; but he has
+    an ungainly look, and an outward squint in each eye. A number of
+    human skulls adorned the entrance to his courtyard; and great
+    numbers of his principal men having their ears cropped, and some
+    with their hands lopped off, showed his barbarous way of making
+    his ministers attentive and honest. I could not avoid indulging
+    a prejudice against him.
+
+    The Portuguese visited Casembe long ago; but as each new Casembe
+    builds a new town, it is not easy to fix on the exact spot to
+    which strangers came. The last seven Casembes have had their
+    towns within seven miles of the present one. Dr. Lacerda,
+    Governor of Tette, on the Zambesi, was the only visitor of
+    scientific attainments, and he died at the rivulet called
+    Chungu, three or four miles from this. The spot is called
+    Nshinda, or Inchinda, which the Portuguese wrote Lucenda or
+    Ucenda. The latitude given is nearly fifty miles wrong, but the
+    natives say that he lived only ten days after his arrival, and
+    if, as is probable, his mind was clouded with fever when he last
+    observed, those who have experienced what that is will readily
+    excuse any mistake he may have made. His object was to
+    accomplish a much-desired project of the Portuguese to have an
+    overland communication between their eastern and western
+    possessions. This was never made by any of the Portuguese
+    nation; but two black traders succeeded partially with a part of
+    the distance, crossing once from Cassange, in Angola, to Tette
+    on the Zambesi, and returning with a letter from the Governor
+    of Mosambique. It is remarkable that this journey, which was
+    less by a thousand miles than from sea to sea and back again,
+    should have for ever quenched all white Portuguese aspirations
+    for an overland route.
+
+    The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to have
+    varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first
+    visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 20,000
+    trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed
+    twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of human
+    sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present Casembe
+    could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When he
+    usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled;
+    but he was so severe in his punishments--cropping the ears,
+    lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling the
+    children for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually
+    dispersed themselves in the neighbouring countries beyond his
+    power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured in
+    parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The
+    present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed
+    elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of
+    the ivory with his subordinates. The elephant hunters have
+    either left him or neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to
+    sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major
+    Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to
+    have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other
+    of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much
+    by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that
+    Casembe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west of this
+    the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into large
+    bars shaped like the capital letter I. They may be met with of
+    from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs., weight all over the country, and the
+    inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and leglets.
+    Gold is also found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent
+    to the Sultan of Zanzibar.
+
+    As we come down from the watershed towards Tanganyika we enter an
+    area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal igneous
+    action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama is often used to
+    boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are by no means rare. We
+    experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's village, and
+    they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if afloat, and as huts
+    would not fall there was no sense of danger; some of them that
+    happened at night set the fowls a cackling. The most remarkable
+    effect of this one was that it changed the rates of the
+    chronometers; no rain fell after it. No one had access to the
+    chronometers but myself, and, as I never heard of this effect
+    before, I may mention that one which lost with great regularity
+    1.5 sec. daily, lost 15 sec.; another; whose rate since leaving
+    the coast was 15 sec., lost 40 sec.; and a third, which gained 6
+    sec. daily, stopped altogether. Some of Nsama's people ascribed
+    the earthquakes to the hot fountain, because it showed unusual
+    commotion on these occasions; another hot fountain exists near
+    Tanganyika than Nsama's, and we passed one on the shores of
+    Moero.
+
+    We could not understand why the natives called Moero much larger
+    than Tanganyika till we saw both. The greater Lake lies in a
+    comparatively narrow trough, with highland on each side, which
+    is always visible; but when we look at Moero, to the south of
+    the mountains of Rua on the west, we have nothing but an
+    apparently boundless sea horizon. The Luapula and Rovukwe form a
+    marsh at the southern extremity, and Casembe dissuaded me from
+    entering it, but sent a man to guide me to different points of
+    Moero further down. From the heights at which the southern
+    portions were seen, it must be from forty to sixty miles broad.
+    From the south end of the mountains of Rua (9 deg. 4' south lat.) it
+    is thirty-three miles broad. No native ever attempts to cross
+    it even there. Its fisheries are of great value to the
+    inhabitants, and the produce is carried to great distances.
+
+    Among the vegetable products of this region, that which
+    interested me most was a sort of potato. It does not belong to
+    the solanaceous, but to the papilionaceous or pea family, and
+    its flowers have a delightful fragrance. It is easily propagated
+    by small cuttings of the root or stalk. The tuber is oblong,
+    like our kidney potato, and when boiled tastes exactly like our
+    common potato. When unripe it has a slight degree of bitterness,
+    and it is believed to be wholesome; a piece of the root eaten
+    raw is a good remedy in nausea. It is met with on the uplands
+    alone, and seems incapable of bearing much heat, though I kept
+    some of the roots without earth in a box, which was carried in
+    the sun almost daily for six months, without destroying their
+    vegetative power.
+
+    It is remarkable that in all the central regions of Africa
+    visited, the cotton is that known as the Pernambuco variety. It
+    has a long strong staple, seeds clustered together, and adherent
+    to each other. The bushes eight or ten feet high have woody
+    stems, and the people make strong striped black and white shawls
+    of the cotton.
+
+    It was pleasant to meet the palm-oil palm (_Elais Guineaensis_)
+    at Casembe's, which is over 3000 feet above the level of the
+    sea. The oil is sold cheap, but no tradition exists of its
+    introduction into the country.
+
+    I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet passed
+    over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of the whole
+    watershed of this region, and I regret that I cannot recommend
+    any of the published maps I have seen as giving even a tolerable
+    idea of the country. One bold constructor of maps has tacked on
+    200 miles to the north-west end of Lake Nyassa, a feat which no
+    traveller has ever ventured to imitate. Another has placed a
+    river in the same quarter running 3000 or 4000 feet up hill,
+    and named it the "NEW ZAMBESI," because I suppose the old
+    Zambesi runs down hill. I have walked over both these mental
+    abortions, and did not know that I was walking on water till I
+    saw them in the maps.
+
+[The despatch breaks off at this point. The year concludes with health
+impaired. As time goes on we shall see how ominous the conviction was
+which made him dread the swamps of Bangweolo.]
+
+_28-31st December, 1867._--We came on to the rivulet Chirongo, and
+then to the Kabukwa, where I was taken ill. Heavy rains kept the
+convoy back. I have had nothing but coarsely-ground sorghum meal for
+some time back, and am weak; I used to be the first in the line of
+march, and am now the last; Mohamad presented a meal of finely-ground
+porridge and a fowl, and I immediately felt the difference, though I
+was not grumbling at my coarse dishes. It is well that I did not go to
+Bangweolo Lake, for it is now very unhealthy to the natives, and I
+fear that without medicine continual wettings by fording rivulets
+might have knocked me up altogether. As I have mentioned, the people
+suffer greatly from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and
+Elephantiasis scroti.
+
+_1st January, 1868._--Almighty Father, forgive the sins of the past
+year for Thy Son's sake. Help me to be more profitable during this
+year. If I am to die this year prepare me for it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I bought five hoes at two or three yards of calico each: they are
+13-1/2 inches by 6-1/2 inches; many are made in Casembe's country, and
+this is the last place we can find them: when we come into Buire we
+can purchase a good goat for one; one of my goats died and the other
+dried up. I long for others, for milk is the most strengthening food
+I can get.
+
+My guide to Moero came to-day, and I visited the Lake several times,
+so as to get a good idea of its size. The first fifteen miles in the
+north are from twelve or more to thirty-three miles broad. The great
+mass of the Rua Mountains confines it. Thus in a clear day a lower
+range is seen continued from the high point of the first mass away to
+the west south-west, this ends, and sea horizon is alone visible away
+to the south and west; from the height we viewed it at, the width must
+be over forty, perhaps sixty miles. A large island, called Kirwa,[59]
+is situated between the Mandapala and Kabukwa Rivers, but nearest to
+the other shore. The natives never attempt to cross any part of the
+Lake south of this Kirwa. Land could not be seen with a good glass on
+the clearest day we had. I can understand why the natives pronounced
+Moero to be larger than Tanganyika: in the last named they see the
+land always on both sides; it is like a vast trough flanked with
+highlands, but at Moero nothing but sea horizon can be seen when one
+looks south-west of the Rua Mountains.
+
+At the Kalongosi meadow one of Mohamad's men shot a buffalo, and he
+gave me a leg of the good beefy flesh. Our course was slow, caused
+partly by rains, and partly by waiting for the convoy. The people at
+Kalongosi were afraid to ferry us or any of his people in the convoy
+out of Casembe's country; but at last we gave a good fee, and their
+scruples yielded: they were influenced also by seeing other villagers
+ready to undertake the job; the latter nearly fought over us on seeing
+that their neighbours got all the fare.
+
+We then came along the Lake, and close to its shores. The moisture
+caused a profusion of gingers, ferns, and tropical forest: buffaloes,
+zebras and elephants are numerous, and the villagers at Chukosi's,
+where we slept, warned us against lions and leopards.
+
+_12th January, 1868._--Sunday at Karembwe's village. The mountains
+east of him are called Makunga. We went yesterday to the shore, and by
+protraction Rua point was distant thirty-three miles. Karembwe sent
+for us, to have an audience; he is a large man with a gruff voice, but
+liked by his people and by strangers. I gave him a cloth, and he gave
+me a goat. The enthusiasm with which I held on to visit Moero had
+communicated itself to Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alle, for they followed
+me up to this place to see the Lake, and remained five days while we
+were at Casembe's. Other Arabs, or rather Suahelis, must have seen it,
+but never mentioned it as anything worth looking at; and it was only
+when all hope of ivory was gone that these two headmen found time to
+come. There is a large population here.
+
+_13th January, 1868._--Heavy rains. Karembe mentioned a natural
+curiosity as likely to interest me: a little rivulet, Chipamba, goes
+some distance underground, but is uninteresting.
+
+Next day we crossed the Vuna, a strong torrent, which, has a hot
+fountain close by the ford, in which maize and cassava may be boiled.
+A large one in Nsama's country is used in the same way, maize and
+cassava being tied to a string and thrown in to be cooked: some
+natives believe that earthquakes are connected with its violent
+ebullitions. We crossed the Katette, another strong torrent, before
+reaching the north end of Moero, where we slept in some travellers'
+huts.
+
+Leaving the Lake, and going north, we soon got on to a plain flooded
+by the Luao. We had to wade through very adhesive black mud, generally
+ankle deep, and having many holes in it much deeper: we had four
+hours of this, and then came to the ford of the Luao itself. We waded
+up a branch of it waist deep for at least a quarter of a mile, then
+crossed a narrow part by means of a rude bridge of branches and trees,
+of about forty yards width. The Luao, in spreading over the plains,
+confers benefits on the inhabitants, though I could not help
+concluding it imparts disease too, for the black mud in places smells
+horribly. Great numbers of Siluridae, chiefly _Clarias Capensis_,
+often three feet in length, spread over the flooded portions of the
+country, eating the young of other fishes, and insects, lizards, and
+worms, killed by the waters. The people make weirs for them, and as
+the waters retire kill large numbers, which they use as a relish to
+their farinaceous food.
+
+_16th January, 1868._--After sleeping near the Luao we went on towards
+the village, in which Mohamad's son lives. It is on the Kakoma Eiver,
+and is called Kabwabwata, the village of Mubao. In many of the
+villages the people shut their stockades as soon as we appear, and
+stand bows and arrows in hand till we have passed: the reason seems to
+be that the slaves when out of sight of their masters carry things
+with a high hand, demanding food and other things as if they had power
+and authority. One slave stole two tobacco pipes yesterday in passing
+through a village; the villagers complained to me when I came up, and
+I waited till Mohamad came and told him; we then went forward, the men
+keeping close to me till we got the slave and the pipes. They stole
+cassava as we went along, but this could scarcely be prevented. They
+laid hold of a plant an inch-and-a-half thick, and tore it out of the
+soft soil with its five or six roots as large as our largest carrots,
+stowed the roots away in their loads, and went on eating them; but the
+stalk thrown among those still growing shows the theft. The raw roots
+are agreeable and nutritious. No great harm is done by this, for the
+gardens are so large, but it inspires distrust in the inhabitants, and
+makes it dangerous for Arabs to travel not fully manned and armed.
+
+On reaching the village Kabwabwata a great demonstration was made by
+Mohamad's Arab dependants and Wanyamwesi: the women had their faces
+all smeared with pipeclay, and lullilooed with all their might. When
+we came among the huts, they cast handfuls of soil on their heads,
+while the men fired off their guns as fast as they could load them.
+Those connected with Mohamad ran and kissed his hands, and fired, till
+the sound of shouting, lullilooing, clapping of hands, and shooting
+was deafening: Mohamad was quite overcome by this demonstration, and
+it was long before he could still them.
+
+On the way to this village from the south we observed an extensive
+breadth of land, under ground-nuts which are made into oil: a large
+jar of this is sold for a hoe. The ground-nuts were now in flower, and
+green maize ready to be eaten. People all busy planting,
+transplanting, or weeding; they plant cassava on mounds prepared for
+it, on which they have sown beans, sorghum, maize, pumpkins: these
+ripen, and leave the cassava a free soil. The sorghum or dura is sown
+thickly, and when about a foot high--if the owner has been able to
+prepare the soil elsewhere--it is transplanted, a portion of the
+leaves being cut off to prevent too great evaporation and the death of
+the plant.
+
+_17th January, 1868._--The Wanyamwesi and people of Garaganza say that
+we have thirteen days' march from this to the Tanganyika Lake. It is
+often muddy, and many rivulets are to be crossed.
+
+Mohamad is naturally anxious to stay a little while with his son, for
+it is a wet season, and the mud is disagreeable to travel over: it is
+said to be worse near Ujiji: he cooks small delicacies for me with the
+little he has, and tries to make me comfortable. Vinegar is made from
+bananas, and oil from ground-nuts. I am anxious to be off, but
+chiefly to get news.
+
+I find that many Unyamwesi people are waiting here, on account of the
+great quantity of rainwater in front: it would be difficult, they say,
+to get canoes on Tanganyika, as the waves are now large.
+
+_24th January, 1868._--Two of Mohamad Bogharib's people came from
+Casembe's to trade here, and a body of Syde bin Habib's people also
+from Garaganza, near Kaze, they report the flooded lands on this side
+of Lake Tanganyika as waist and chest deep. Bin Habib, being at
+Katanga, will not stir till the rains are over, and I fear we are
+storm-stayed till then too. The feeders of the Marungu are not
+fordable just now, and no canoes are to be had.
+
+_26th and 27th January, 1868._--I am ill with fever, as I always am
+when stationary.
+
+_28th January, 1868._--Better, and thankful to Him of the Greatest
+Name. We must remain; it is a dry spot, and favourable for
+ground-nuts. _Hooping-cough_ here.
+
+_30th January, 1868._--The earth cooled by the rain last night sets
+all to transplanting dura or sorghum; they cut the leaves till only
+about eighteen inches of them are left, but it grows all the better
+for the change of place.
+
+Mohamad believes that Tanganyika flows through Rusizi to Lohinde.
+(Chuambo.)
+
+Seyd Seyd is said to have been the first Arab Sultan who traded, and
+Seyed Majid follows the example of his father, and has many Arab
+traders in his employment. He lately sent eight buffaloes to Mteza,
+king of Uganda, son of Sunna, by way of increasing his trade, but if
+is not likely that he will give up the lucrative trade in ivory and
+slaves.
+
+Susi bought a hoe with a little gunpowder, then a cylinder of dura,
+three feet long by two feet in diameter, for the hoe: it is at least
+one hundredweight.
+
+Stone underground houses are reported in Rua, but whether natural or
+artificial Mohamad could not say. If a present is made to the Rua
+chiefs they never obstruct passengers.
+
+Chikosi, at whose village we passed a night, near Kalongosi, and
+Chiputa are both dead.
+
+The Mofwe fills during the greater rains, and spreads over a large
+district; elephants then wander in its marshes, and are killed easily
+by people in canoes: this happens every year, and Mohamad Bogharib
+waits now for this ivory.
+
+_7th to 21st February, 1868._--On inquiring of men who lave seen the
+underground houses in Rua, I find that they are very extensive,
+ranging along mountain sides for twenty miles, and in one part a
+rivulet flows inside. In some cases the doorways are level with the
+country adjacent: in others, ladders are used to climb up to them;
+inside they are said to be very large, and not the work of men, but of
+God. The people have plenty of fowls, and they too obtain shelter in
+these Troglodyte habitations.
+
+_23rd February, 1868._--I was visited by an important chief called
+Chape, who said that he wanted to make friends with the English. He,
+Chisapi, Sama, Muabo, Karembwe, are of one tribe or family, the Oanza:
+he did not beg anything, and promised to send me a goat.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[59] Kirwa and its various corruptions, such as Shirwa, Chirua, and
+Kiroa, perpetually recur in Africa, and would almost seem to stand for
+"the island."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment.
+    Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of
+    Lake Chowambe. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold
+    supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib.
+    Birthday 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpweto. Contemplates
+    visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of
+    Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Beturn to Casembe's. Obstructiveness
+    of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major
+    Monteiro. The line of Casembe's. Casembe explains the connection
+    of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Moaeri. Arab sacrifice.
+    Kapika gets rid of his wife.
+
+_24th February, 1868._--Some slaves who came with Mohamad Bogharib's
+agent, abused my men this morning, as bringing unclean meat into the
+village to sell, though it had been killed by a man of the Wanyamwesi.
+They called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!" and Susi, roused by this, launched
+forth with a stick; the others joined in the row, and the offenders
+were beat off, but they went and collected all their number and
+renewed the assault. One threw a heavy block of wood and struck Simon
+on the head, making him quite insensible and convulsed for some time.
+He has three wounds on the head, which may prove serious. This is the
+first outburst of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and by those who know
+so little of the creed that it is questionable if one of them can
+repeat the formula: "La illaha illa lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu,
+a leihi oa Salama." Simon recovered, but Gallahs are in general not
+strong.
+
+_25th February, 1868._--Mohamad called on me this morning to apologise
+for the outrage of yesterday, but no one was to blame except the
+slaves, and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were cautioned
+for the future. It seems, plain that if they do not wish to buy the
+unclean meat they can let it alone,--no harm is done. The Wanyamwesi
+kill for all, and some Mohamadans say that they won't eat of it, but
+their wives and people do eat it privately.
+
+I asked Mohamad to-day if it were true that he was a prisoner at
+Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some Garaganza people, now at
+Katanga, fought with Casembe, and Mohamad was suspected of being
+connected with them. Casembe attacked his people, and during the
+turmoil a hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from him, and many
+of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner till sixty of his
+people were either killed or died, among these Mohamad's eldest son:
+he was thus reduced to poverty. He gave something to Casembe to allow
+him to depart, and I suspect that my Sultan's letter had considerable
+influence in inducing Casembe to accede to his request, for he
+repeated again and again in my hearing that he must pay respect to my
+letter, and see me safe at least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad says that he
+will not return to Casembe again, but will begin to trade with some
+other chief: it is rather hard for a man at his age to begin _de
+novo_. He is respected among the Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good
+man. He says that he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never
+saw an outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi: it is,
+however, common for the people at Ujiji to drink palm toddy, and then
+have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad feeling exists next day.
+
+If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is killed,
+as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. When I was amongst
+the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekeletu's wives would not allow her
+servant's child to be killed for this, but few would have the courage
+to act in opposition to public feeling as she did. In Casembe's
+country if a child is seen to turn from one side to the other in
+sleep it is killed. They say of any child who has what they consider
+these defects "he is an Arab child," because the Arabs have none of
+this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be near they give the
+child to him: it would bring ill-luck, misfortunes, "milando," or
+guilt, to the family. These superstitions may account for the
+readiness with which one tribe parted with their children to Speke's
+followers. Mohamad says that these children must have been taken in
+war, as none sell their own offspring.
+
+If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he puts the man to
+death, as one who is practising secret arts against his life: if any
+one is pounding or cooking food for him he must preserve the strictest
+silence; these and other things show extreme superstition and
+degradation.
+
+During, his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised him to leave
+Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their men, but he always
+refused. His father was the first to open this country to trade with
+the Arabs, and all his expenses while so doing were borne by himself;
+but Mohamad seems to be a man of peace, and unwilling to break the
+appearance of friendship with the chiefs. He thinks that this Casembe
+poisoned his predecessor: he certainly killed his wife's mother, a
+queen, that she might be no obstacle to him in securing her daughter.
+
+We are waiting in company with a number of Wanyamwesi for the
+cessation of the rains, which have flooded the country between this
+and Tanganyika. If there were much slope this water would flow off:
+this makes me suspect that Tanganyika is not so low as Speke's
+measurement. The Arabs are positive that water flows from that Lake to
+the Victoria Nyanza, and assert that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika,
+was anxious to send canoes from his place to Ujiji, or, as some say,
+to dig a canal to Ujiji. The Wanyamwesi here support themselves by
+shooting buffaloes, at a place two days distant, and selling the meat
+for grain and cassava: no sooner is it known that an animal is killed,
+than the village women crowd in here, carrying their produce to
+exchange it for meat, which they prefer to beads or anything else.
+Their farinaceous food creates a great craving for flesh: were my
+shoes not done I would go in for buffaloes too.
+
+A man from the upper part of Tanganyika gives the same account of the
+river from Rusisi that Burton and Speke received when they went to its
+mouth. He says that the water of the Lake goes up some distance, but
+is met by Rusisi water, and driven back thereby. The Lake water, he
+adds, finds an exit northwards and eastwards by several small rivers
+which would admit small canoes only. They pour into Lake
+Chowambe--probably that discovered by Mr. Baker. This Chowambe is in
+Hundi, the country of cannibals, but the most enlightened informants
+leave the impression on the mind of groping in the dark: it may be all
+different when we come to see it.
+
+The fruit of the palm, which yields palm-oil, is first of all boiled,
+then pounded in a mortar, then put into hot or boiling water, and the
+oil skimmed off. The palm-oil is said to be very abundant at Ujiji, as
+much as 300 gallons being often brought into the bazaar for sale in
+one morning; the people buy it eagerly for cooking purposes. Mohamad
+says that the Island of Pemba, near Zanzibar, contains many of these
+palms, but the people are ignorant of the mode of separating the oil
+from the nut: they call the palm Nkoma at Casembe's, and Chikichi at
+Zanzibar.[60]
+
+No better authority for what has been done or left undone by
+Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad bin Saleh, for he
+is very intelligent, and takes an interest in all that happens, and
+his father was equally interested in this country's affairs. He
+declares that no attempt was ever made by Mohamadans to proselytize
+the Africans: they teach their own children to read the Koran, but
+them only; it is never translated, and to servants who go to the
+Mosque it is all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan bigotry
+about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to make
+_halel_, or fit to slaughter the animals for their master, is the
+utmost advance any have made. As the Arabs in East Africa never feel
+themselves called on to propagate the doctrines of Islam, among the
+heathen Africans, the statement of Captain Burton that they would make
+better missionaries to the Africans than Christians, because they
+would not insist on the abandonment of polygamy, possesses the same
+force as if he had said Mohamadans would catch more birds than
+Christians, because they would put salt on their tails. The
+indispensable requisite or qualification for any kind of missionary is
+that he have some wish to proselytize: this the Arabs do not possess
+in the slightest degree.
+
+As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best means of
+influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to understand what they
+are about. When we were teaching adults the alphabet, they felt it a
+hard task. "Give me medicine, I shall drink it to make me understand
+it," was their earnest entreaty. When they have advanced so far as to
+form clear conceptions of Old Testament and Gospel histories, they
+tell them to their neighbours; and, on visiting distant tribes, feel
+proud to show how much they know: in this way the knowledge of
+Christianity becomes widely diffused. Those whose hatred to its
+self-denying doctrines has become developed by knowledge, propagate
+slanders; but still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention.
+The plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting
+knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem in dealing
+with dumb show. I have, however, been astonished to see that none of
+the Africans imitate the Arab prayers: considering their great
+reverence of the Deity, it is a wonder that they do not learn to
+address prayers to Him except on very extraordinary occasions.
+
+My remarks referring to the education by Mohamadans do not refer to
+the Suahelis, for they teach their children to read, and even send
+them to school. They are the descendants of Arab and African women and
+inhabit the coast line. Although they read, they understand very
+little Arabic beyond the few words which have been incorporated into
+Suaheli. The establishment of Moslem missions among the heathen is
+utterly unknown, and this is remarkable, because the Wanyamwesi, for
+instance, are very friendly with the Arabs--are great traders, too,
+like them, and are constantly employed as porters and native traders,
+being considered very trustworthy. They even acknowledge Seyed Majid's
+authority. The Arabs speak of all the Africans as _"Gumu_" that is
+hard or callous to the Mohamadan religion.
+
+Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as in Egypt, and
+that Moses visited it of old.
+
+Mungo Park mentions that he found the Africans in the far interior of
+the west in possession of the stories of Joseph and his brethren, and
+others. They probably got them from the Koran, as verbally explained
+by some liberal Mullah, and showed how naturally they spread any new
+ideas they obtained: they were astonished to find that Park knew the
+stories.
+
+The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for the gold in their country
+because they believe that it has been hidden where it is by "Ngolu,"
+who is the owner of it. The Arabs translate Ngolu by Satan: it means
+Mezimo, or departed spirits, too. The people are all oppressed by
+their superstitions; the fear of death is remarkably strong. The
+Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were killed, death
+would visit the village; this too is the case with the small Whydah
+birds, the fear of death in the minds of the people saves them from
+molestation. But why should we be so prone to criticise? A remnant of
+our own superstitions is seen in the prejudice against sitting down
+thirteen to dinner, spilling the salt, and not throwing a little of it
+over the left shoulder. Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in passing
+through the streets, perpetually put one hand into his pockets to
+cross the thumb over the finger in order to avert the influence of the
+evil eye!
+
+On the 6th, Muabo, the great chief of these parts, came to call on
+Mohamad: several men got up and made some antics before him, then
+knelt down and did obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped about a
+little, and all applauded. He is a good-natured-looking man, fond of a
+joke, and always ready with a good-humoured smile: he was praised very
+highly, Mpweto was nothing to Muabo mokolu, the great Muabo; and he
+returned the praise by lauding Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native
+name, which means, "Give me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few of
+the ungainly antics like the natives, and all were highly pleased, and
+went off rejoicing.
+
+Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands in the Nyanza
+Lake has the power of speaking, and is the same that beguiled Eve. It
+is a crime at Ujiji to kill a serpent, even though it enters a house
+and kills a kid! The native name, for the people of Ujiji is Wayeiye,
+the very same as the people on the Zouga, near Lake Ngami. They are
+probably an offshoot from Ujiji.[61]
+
+There are underground stone houses in Kabiure, in the range called
+Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention. _15th March,
+1868._--The roots of the Nyumbo or Noombo open in four or five months
+from the time of planting, those planted by me on the 6th February
+have now stalks fifteen inches long. The root is reported to be a very
+wholesome food, never disagreeing with the stomach; and the raw root
+is an excellent remedy in obstinate vomiting and nausea; four or five
+tubers are often given by one root, in Marungu they attain a size of
+six inches in length by two in diameter.
+
+_16th March, 1868._--We started for Mpweto's village, which is
+situated on the Lualaba, and in our course crossed the Lokinda, which
+had a hundred yards of flood water on each side of it. The river
+itself is forty yards wide, with a rude bridge over it, as it flows
+fast away into Moero.
+
+Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached the village of
+Mpweto, situated in a valley between two ridges, about one mile from
+the right bank of the Lualaba, where it comes through the mountains.
+It then flows about two miles along the base of a mountain lying east
+and west before it begins to make northing: its course is reported to
+be very winding, this seems additional evidence that Tanganyika is not
+in a depression of only 1844 feet above the sea, otherwise the water
+of Lualaba would flow faster and make a straighter channel. It is said
+to flow into the Lufira, and that into Tanganyika.
+
+_18th March, 1868._--On reaching Mpweto's yesterday we were taken up
+to the house of Syde bin Habib, which is built on a ridge overhanging
+the chiefs village, a square building of wattle and plaster, and a mud
+roof to prevent it being fired by an enemy. It is a very pretty spot
+among the mountains. Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a
+basket of flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpweto, which he
+politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his village,
+but if we waited two days he would have some prepared, and would then
+see us. He knew what we should give him, and he need not tell us I
+met a man from Seskeke, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and now with
+him here.
+
+A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in every way,
+and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very Venus in black.
+The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the West Coast is common in
+Rua, and tamed by the natives.[62]
+
+_19th March, 1868._[63]--(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more and
+serve Thee better.)
+
+The favourite son of Mpweto called on us; his father is said to do
+nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to be endowed with
+much wisdom.
+
+_20th and 21st March, 1868._--Our interview was put off; and then a
+sight of the cloth we were to give was required. I sent a good large
+cloth, and explained that we were nearly out of goods now, having been
+travelling two years, and were going to Ujiji to get more. Mpweto had
+prepared a quantity of pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when
+he looked at them and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a
+poor bargain, so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given
+him many cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another
+cloth he would not see me. "He had never slept with only one cloth."
+"I had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away."
+
+It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival, Muabo,
+before visiting him. He would not see Syde bin Habib for eight days;
+and during that time was using charms to try if it would be safe to
+see him at all: on the ninth day he peeped past a door for some time
+to see if Bin Habib were a proper person, and then came out: he is
+always very suspicious.
+
+At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did not move, he
+would come with all his people and drive us off. Sariamo said if he
+were not afraid for Syde bin Habib's goods, he would make a stand
+against Mpweto; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a
+worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (_24th March._) He
+abused a native trader with his tongue for coming to trade, and sent
+him away too. We slept again at our half-way village, Kapemba, just as
+a party of salt-traders from Rua came into it: they were tall,
+well-made men, and rather dark.
+
+_25th March, 1868._--Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and were welcomed by
+Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But, accompanied us; but
+Mohamad told us previously that it was likely Mpweto would refuse to
+see us.
+
+The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is impossible to
+go north: the Wanyamwesi, who are detained here as well as we, say it
+is often more than a man's depth, and there are no canoes. They would
+not stop here if a passage home could be made. I am thinking of going
+to Lake Bemba, because at least two months must be passed here still
+before a passage can be made; but my goods are getting done, and I
+cannot give presents to the chiefs on our way.
+
+This Lake has a sandy, not muddy bottom, as we were at first informed,
+and there are four islands in it, one, the Bangweolo, is very large,
+and many people live on it; they have goats and sheep in abundance:
+the owners of canoes demand three hoes for the hire of one capable of
+carrying eight or ten persons; beyond this island it is sea horizon
+only. The tsebula and nzoe antelopes abound. The people desire salt
+and not beads for sale.
+
+_2nd April, 1868._--If I am not deceived by the information I have
+received from various reliable sources, the springs of the Nile rise
+between 9 deg. and 10 deg. south latitude, or at least 400 or 500 miles
+south of the south end of Speke's Lake, which he considered to be the
+sources of the Nile. Tanganyika is declared to send its water through
+north into Lake Chowambe or Baker's Lake; if this does not prove
+false, then Tanganyika is an expansion of the Nile, and so is Lake
+Chowambe; the two Lakes being connected by the River Loanda.
+Unfortunately the people on the east side of the Loanda are constantly
+at war with the people on the west of it, or those of Rusisi. The
+Arabs have been talking of opening up a path through to Chowambe,
+where much ivory is reported; I hope that the Most High may give me a
+way there.
+
+_11th April, 1868._--I had a long oration from Mohamad yesterday
+against going off for Bemba to-morrow. His great argument is the
+extortionate way of Casembe, who would demand cloth, and say that in
+pretending to go to Ujiji I had told him lies: he adds to this
+argument that this is the last month of the rains; the Masika has
+begun, and our way north will soon be open. The fact of the matter is
+that Mohamad, by not telling me of the superabundance of water in the
+country of the Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose
+five months. He knew that we should be detained here, but he was so
+eager to get out of his state of durance with Casembe that he hastened
+my departure by asserting that we should be at Ujiji in one month. I
+regret this deception, but it is not to be wondered at, and in a
+Mohamadan and in a Christian too it is thought clever. Were my goods
+not nearly done I would go, and risk the displeasure of Casembe for
+the chance of discovering the Lake Bemba. I thought once of buying
+from Mohamad Bogharib, but am afraid that his stock may be getting low
+too: I fear that I must give up this Lake for the present.
+
+_12th April, 1868._--I think of starting to-morrow for Bangweolo, even
+if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him: we shall be better there than
+we are here, for everything at Kabwabwata is scarce and dear. There we
+can get a fowl for one string of beads, here it costs six: there fish
+may be bought, here none. Three of Casembe's principal men are here,
+Kakwata, Charley, and Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and
+would be a gain to me, but Mohamad detains them, and when I ask his
+reason he says "Muabo refuses," but they point to Mohamad's house and
+say, "It is he who refuses."
+
+[A very serious desertion took place at this time amongst Dr.
+Livingstone's followers. Not to judge them too harshly they had become
+to a great extent demoralised by camp life with Mohamad and his horde
+of slaves and slavers. The Arab tried all he could to dissuade the
+traveller from proceeding south instead of homewards through Ujiji,
+and the men seem to have found their own breaking-point where this
+disappointment occurred.]
+
+_13th April, 1868._--On preparing to start this morning my people
+refused to go: the fact is, they are all tired, and Mohamad's
+opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was evidently eager to make
+capital out of their refusal, asked me to remain over to-day, and then
+demanded what I was going to do with those who had absconded. I said,
+"Nothing: if a magistrate were on the spot, I would give them over to
+him." "Oh," said he, "I am magistrate, shall I apprehend them?" To
+this I assented. He repeated this question till it was tiresome: I saw
+his reason long afterwards, when he asserted that I "came to him and
+asked him to bind them, but he had refused:" he wanted to appear to
+the people as much better than I am.
+
+_14th April, 1868._--I start off with five attendants, leaving most of
+the luggage with Mohamad, and reach the Luao to spend the night.
+Headman Ndowa.
+
+_15th April, 1868._--Amoda ran away early this morning. "Wishes to
+stop with his brothers." They think that, by refusing to go to Bemba,
+they will force me to remain with them, and then go to Ujiji: one of
+them has infused the idea into their minds that I will not pay them,
+and exclaims "Look at the sepoys!"--not knowing that they are paid by
+the Indian Government; and as for the Johanna men, they were prepaid
+_29l. 4s._ in cash, besides clothing. I sent Amoda's bundle back to
+Mohamad: my messenger got to Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and he
+presented himself to my Arab friend, who, of course, scolded him: he
+replied that he was tired of carrying, and no other fault had he; I
+may add that I found out that Amoda wished to come south to me with
+one of Mohamad Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return.
+Now that I was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to Mohamad
+that I would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had done all in my
+power to reach the Lake I sought: I would even prefer waiting at Luao
+or Moero, till people came to me from Ujiji to supplant the runaways.
+I did not blame them very severely in my own mind for absconding: they
+were tired of tramping, and so verily am I, but Mohamad, in
+encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a double tongue,
+cannot be exonerated from blame. Little else can be expected from him,
+he has lived some thirty-five years in the country, twenty-five being
+at Casembe's, and there he had often to live by his wits.
+Consciousness of my own defects makes me lenient.
+
+_16th April, 1868._--Ndowa gives Mita or Mpamankanana as the names of
+the excavations in Muabo's hills, he says that they are sufficient to
+conceal all the people of this district in case of war: I conjecture
+that this implies room for ten thousand people: provisions are stored
+in them, and a perennial rivulet runs along a whole street of them. On
+one occasion, when the main entrance was besieged by an enemy, someone
+who knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a party out by a
+secret passage, and they, coming over the invaders, drove them off
+with heavy loss. Their formation is universally ascribed to the Deity.
+This may mean that the present inhabitants have succeeded the original
+burrowing race, which dug out many caves adjacent to Mount Hor--the
+_Jebel Nebi Harin_, Mount of the Prophet Aaron, of the Arabs--and many
+others; and even the Bushman caves, a thousand miles south of this
+region.
+
+A very minute, sharp-biting mosquito is found here: the women try to
+drive them out of their huts by whisking bundles of green leaves all
+round the walls before turning into them.
+
+_17th August, 1868._--Crossed the Luao by a bridge, thirty yards long,
+and more than half a mile of flood on each side; passed many villages,
+standing on little heights, which overlook plains filled with water.
+Some three miles of grassy plains abreast of Moero were the deepest
+parts, except the banks of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the
+bottom being generally black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in
+the paths by the feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud,
+and, as they could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge,
+and when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud, half-way
+up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very fatiguing. To
+avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the sides of the paths,
+but often stepping on the unseen edge of a rut, we floundered in with
+both feet to keep the balance, and this was usually followed by a rush
+of bubbles to the surface, which, bursting, discharged foul air of
+frightful faecal odour. In parts, the black mud and foul water were
+cold, in others hot, according as circulation went on or not. When we
+came near Moero, the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all
+perishable articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of
+fishermen on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid
+waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83 deg. at 3 P.M.
+
+_18th April, 1868._--We marched along the north end of Moero, which
+has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is flanked by
+a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees, added to the
+fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted fisherman's village near
+the eastern hills, we gladly made it our quarters for Sunday (19th). I
+made no mark, but the Lake is at least twenty feet higher now than it
+was on our first visits, and there are banks showing higher rises even
+than this.
+
+Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for catching
+small fish; one man at each basket drives fish ashore.
+
+_20th April, 1868._--Went on to Katette River, and then to a strong
+torrent; slept at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna,
+where, near the hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook
+cassava and maize.
+
+_21st April, 1868._--Crossed the Vuna and went on to Kalembwe's
+village, meeting the chief at the gate, who guided us to a hut, and
+manifested great curiosity to see all our things; he asked if we could
+not stop next day and drink beer, which would then be ready. Leopards
+abound here. The Lake now seems broader than ever.
+
+I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose could be
+turned to any account except to hold an ornament, though that is
+usually only a bit of grass, but a man sewing the feathers on his
+arrows used his nose-hole for holding a needle! In coming on to
+Kangalola we found the country swimming: I got separated from the
+company, though I saw them disappear in the long grass not a hundred
+yards off and shouted, but the splashing of their feet prevented any
+one hearing. I could not find a path going south, so I took one to the
+east to a village; the grass was so long and tangled, I could scarcely
+get along, at last I engaged a man to show me the main path south, and
+he took me to a neat village of a woman--Nyinakasangaand would go no
+further, "Mother Kasanga," as the name means, had been very handsome,
+and had a beautiful daughter, probably another edition of herself, she
+advised my waiting in the deep shade of the Ficus indica, in which her
+houses were placed. I fired a gun, and when my attendants came gave
+her a string of beads, which made her express distress at my "leaving
+without drinking anything of hers." People have abandoned several
+villages on account of the abundance of ferocious wild beasts.
+
+_23rd April, 1868._--Through very thick tangled Nyassi grass to
+Chikosi's burned village; Nsama had killed him. We spent the night in
+a garden hut, which the fire of the village had spared. Turnips were
+growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or long coarse grass, hangs over the
+paths, and in pushing it aside the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes
+and are very annoying. The grass itself rubs on the face and eyes
+disagreeably: when it is burned off and greensward covers the soil it
+is much more pleasant walking.
+
+24th _April, 1868._--We leave Chikosi's ruins and make for the ford of
+the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom all over the forest, and so
+are foxgloves. The river is here fully 100 yards broad with 300 yards
+of flood on its western bank; so deep we had to remain in the canoes
+till within 50 yards of the higher ground. The people here chew the
+pith of the papyrus, which is three inches in diameter and as white as
+snow: it has very little sweetness or anything else in it. The headman
+of the village to which we went was out cutting wood for a garden, and
+his wife refused us a hut, but when Kansabala came in the evening he
+scolded his own spouse roundly and all the wives of the village, and
+then pressed me to come indoors, but I was well enough in my mosquito
+curtain without, and declined: I was free from insects and vermin, and
+few huts are so.
+
+_25th April, 1868._--Off early west, and then on to an elevated forest
+land, in which our course was S.S.W. to the great bend of the rivulet
+Kifurwa, which enters Moero near to the mouth of the Kalungosi.
+
+_26th April, 1868._--Here we spent Sunday in our former woodcutters'
+huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the same occupation, laden
+with bark-cloth, which they had just been stripping off the trees.
+Their leader would not come along the path because I was sitting near
+it: I invited him to do so, but it would have been disrespectful to
+let his shadow fall on any part of my person, so he went a little out
+of the way: this politeness is common.
+
+_27th April, 1868._--But a short march to Fungafunga's village: we
+could have gone on to the Muatize, but no village exists there, and
+here we could buy food. Fungafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to
+the stranger: on afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said,
+"That is your village; always go that way and eat my provisions." He
+is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, and slaves.
+Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus sorghum in spite of the
+shouts of the women.
+
+We cross Muatize by a bridge of one large tree, getting a good view of
+Moero from a hill near Kabukwa, and sleep at Chirongo River.
+
+_29th April, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. Some men here from the
+Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of Casembe, made a great
+outcry against our coming a second time to Casembe without waiting at
+the Kalungosi for permission. One of them, with his ears cropped short
+off, asked me when I was departing north if I should come again. I
+replied, "Yes, I think I shall." They excited themselves by calling
+over the same thing again and again. "The English come the second
+time!" "The second time--the second time--the country spoiled! Why not
+wait at the Kalungosi? Let him return thither." "Come from Mpamari
+too, and from the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi!!" "The second time--the
+second time!" Then all the adjacent villagers were called in to
+settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher Power to
+influence their minds as He has often done before. I persuaded them to
+refer the matter to Casembe himself by sending a man with one of mine
+up to the town. They would not consent to go on to the Chungu, as the
+old cropped-eared man would have been obliged to come back the
+distance again, he having been on the way to the Kalungosi as a
+sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and fair, but his people
+are neither, and will do anything to mulct either strangers or their
+own countrymen.
+
+_30th April, 1868._--The cold of winter has begun, and dew is
+deposited in great quantities, but all the streams are very high in
+flood, though the rains have ceased here some time.
+
+_1st May, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. I sent a request to Mohamad
+Bogharib to intercede with Casembe for me for a man to show the way to
+Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. I fear that I have become mixed up
+in the Lunda mind with Mpamari (Mohamad bin Saleh), from having gone
+off with him and returning ere we reached Ujiji, whither ostensibly we
+were bound. I may be suspected of being in his confidence, and of
+forwarding his plans by coming back. A deaf and dumb man appears among
+the people here, making signs exactly as I have seen such do in
+England, and occasionally emitting a low unmodulated guttural drawl
+like them.
+
+_3rd May, 1868._--Abraham, my messenger, came back, while we were at
+afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but what made Cropped-ears
+quite chopfallen was that Casembe was quite gracious! He did not wish
+me to go away, and now I am welcome back; and as soon as we hear of
+peace at Chikumbi's we shall have a man to conduct us thither. The
+Mazitu were reported to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's country;
+and it was said that chief had fled, and Casembe had sent messengers
+to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most High for His kindness and
+influence.
+
+_4th May, 1868._--We leave the Mandapala. Cropped-ears, whose name I
+never heard, collapsed at once on hearing the message of Casembe:
+before that I never heard such a babbler, to every one passing, man or
+woman, he repeated the same insinuations about the English, and
+"Mpamari," and the Banyamwezi,--conspiracy--guilt--return a second
+time,--till, like a meddling lawyer, he thought that he had really got
+an important case in hand!
+
+The River Chungu we found to be from fifteen to eighteen yards broad
+and breast deep, with at least one hundred yards of flood, before we
+reached the main stream, the Mandapala. The Chungu and the Lundi join
+in the country called Kimbafuma, about twelve miles from our
+crossing-place of Mandapala, and about west of it. The Lundi was now
+breast deep too, and twelve yards broad.
+
+On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofwe, we found Mohamad Bogharib digging
+and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves being taken away by the
+crocodiles, as three had been eaten already. A dog bit the leg of one
+of my goats so badly that I was obliged to kill it: they are nasty
+curs here, without courage, and yet they sometimes bite people badly.
+I met some old friends, and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, and from
+this time forward never omitted sharing his victuals with me.
+
+_6th May, 1868._--Manoel Caetano Pereira visited Casembe in 1796, or
+seventy-two years ago: his native name was Moendo-mondo, or the
+world's leg--"world-wide traveller!" He came to Mandapala, for there
+the Casembe of the time resided, and he had a priest or "Kasise" with
+him, and many people with guns. Perembe, the oldest man now in Lunda,
+had children even then: if Perembe were thirty years of age at that
+period he would now be 102 years old, and he seems quite that, for
+when Dr. Lacerda came he had forty children. He says that Pereira
+fired off all his guns on his arrival, and Casembe asking him what he
+meant by that, he replied, "These guns ask for slaves and ivory," both
+of which were liberally given.
+
+I could not induce Perembe to tell anything of times previous to his
+own. Moendo-mondo, the world's leg (Pereira), told Dr. Lacerda that
+the natives called him "The Terror!"--a bit of vanity, for they have
+no such word or abstract term in their language.
+
+When Major Monteiro was here the town of Casembe was on the same spot
+as now, but the Mosumba, or enclosure of the chief, was about 500
+yards S.E. of the present one. Monteiro went nowhere and did nothing,
+but some of his attendants went over to the Luapula, some six miles
+distant. He complains in his book of having been robbed by the Casembe
+of the time. On asking the present occupant of the office why
+Monteiro's goods were taken from him, he replied, that he was then
+living at another village and did not know of the affair. Mohamad bin
+Saleh was present, and he says that Monteiro's statement is false: no
+goods were forced from him; but it was a year of scarcity, and
+Monteiro had to spend his goods in buying food instead of slaves and
+ivory, and made up the tale of Casembe plundering him to appease his
+creditors.
+
+A number of men were sent with Monteiro as an honorary escort. Kapika,
+an old man now living, was the chief or one of the chiefs of this
+party, and he says that he went to Tette, Senna, and Quillimane with
+Monteiro: this honorary escort seems confirmatory of Mohamad's
+explanation, for had Casembe robbed the Major none would have been
+granted or received.
+
+It is warmer here than we found it in the way; clouds cover the sky
+and prevent radiation. The sorghum is now in full ear. People make
+very neat mats of the leaves of the Shuare palm. I got lunars this
+time.
+
+_9th May, 1868._--Eight or ten men went past us this morning, sent by
+the chief to catch people whom he intends to send to his paramount
+chief, Matiamvo, as a tribute of slaves. Perembe gives the following
+list of the Casembes:--
+
+    I. KANYIMBE, came from Lunda, attracted by the
+        fish of Mofwe and Moero, and conquered
+        Perembe's forefather, Katere, who planted the
+        first palm-oil palms here from seeds got in
+        Lunda. It is probable that the intercourse
+        then set afoot led to Kanyimbe's coming and
+        conquest.
+    II. KINYANTA.
+    III. NGUANDA MILONDA.
+    IV. KANYEMBO.
+    V. LEKWISA.
+    VI. KIREKA.
+    VII. KAPUMBA.
+    VIII. KINYANTA.
+    IX. LEKWISA, still alive, but a fugitive at Nsama's.
+    X. MUONGA, the present ruler, who drove Lekwisa
+       away.
+
+The Portuguese came to Kireka, who is said to have been very liberal
+with presents of ivory, slaves, and cattle. The present man has good
+sense, and is very fair in his judgments, but stingy towards his own
+people as well as strangers: nevertheless I have had good reason to be
+satisfied with his conduct to me. Maiye, not in the list, and 7, 8, 9,
+10 are the children of Kireka. Muonga is said by the others to be a
+slave "born out of the house," that is, his mother was not of the
+royal line; she is an ugly old woman, and greedy. I got rid of her
+begging by giving her the beads she sought, and requesting her to cook
+some food for me; she begged no more, afraid that I would press my
+claim for provisions!
+
+_10th May, 1868._--I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula, he
+replied that he had not seen me nor given me any food; I must come
+to-morrow: but next day he was occupied in killing a man for
+witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he would on the
+12th. He sent 15 fish (perch) from Mofwe, and a large basket of dried
+cassava. I have taken lunars several times, measuring both sides of
+the moon about 190 times, but a silly map-maker may alter the whole
+for the most idiotic of reasons.
+
+_13th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib has been here some seven months,
+and bought three tusks only; the hunting, by Casembe's people, of
+elephants in the Mofwe has been unsuccessful.
+
+We did not get an audience from Casembe; the fault lay with
+Kapika--Monteiro's escort--being afraid to annoy Casembe by putting
+him in mind of it, but on the 15th Casembe sent for me, and told me
+that as the people had all fled from Chikumbi's, he would therefore
+send guides to take us to Kabaia, where there was still a population;
+he wished me to wait a few days till he had looked out good men as
+guides, and ground some flour for us to use in the journey. He
+understood that I wished to go to Bangweolo; and it was all right to
+do what my own chief had sent me for, and then come back to him. It
+was only water--the same as Luapula, Mofwe, and Moero; nothing to be
+seen. His people must not molest me again, but let me go where I
+liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all in His hand.
+
+Casembe also admitted that he had injured "Mpamari," but he would send
+him some slaves and ivory in reparation: he is better than his people,
+who are excessively litigious, and fond of milandos or causes--suits.
+He asked if I had not the leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it
+was bad to sit on the ground; I told him it had so many holes in it
+people laughed at it and made me ashamed, but he did not take the
+hint to give me another. He always talks good sense when he has not
+swilled beer or pombe: all the Arabs are loud in his praises, but they
+have a bad opinion of the Queen Moaeri or Ngombe or Kifuta. The
+Garaganza people at Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and
+herself, and when the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza
+or Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the Mofwe: he
+continued his flight as soon as it was dark without saying anything to
+anyone, until he got north to Kabiure. The Queen and Casembe suspected
+Mpamari of complicity with the Banyamwezi, and believed that
+Fungafunga had communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A
+tumult was made; Mpamari's eldest son was killed; and he was plundered
+of all his copper, ivory, and slaves: the Queen loudly demanded his
+execution, but Casembe restrained his people as well as he was able
+and it is for this injury that he now professes to be sorry.
+
+The Queen only acted according to the principles of her people.
+"Mpamari killed my son, kill his son--himself." It is difficult to get
+at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never tells the whole truth. He
+went to fight Nsama with Muonga, and was wounded in the foot and
+routed, and is now glad to get out of Lunda back to Ujiji. _(16th
+May.)_ Complete twenty sets of lunars.
+
+_11th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe that he could buy
+nothing, and therefore was going away, Casembe replied that he had no
+ivory and he might go: this was sensible; he sent far and near to find
+some, but failed, and now confesses a truth which most chiefs hide
+from unwillingness to appear poor before foreigners.
+
+_18th and 19th May, 1868._--It is hot here though winter; but cold by
+night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. News came that one of Syde
+bin Habib's men had come to Chikumbi on his way to Zanzibar.
+
+_20th May, 1868._--A thunder-shower from the east laid the dust and
+cooled the ground: the last shower of this season, as a similar slight
+shower was the finish up of the last on the 12th of May. _(21st May._)
+This cannot be called a rainy month: April is the last month of the
+wet season, and November the first.
+
+_22nd May, 1868._--Casembe is so slow with his fish, meal, and guides,
+and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I think of going off as
+soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves; he is going to Chikumbi's to buy
+copper, and thence he will proceed to Uvira to exchange that for
+ivory; but this is at present kept as a secret from his slaves. The
+way seems thus to be opening for me to go to the large Lake west of
+Uvira.
+
+I told Casembe that we were going; he said to me that if in coming
+back I had found no travelling party, I must not risk going by Nsama's
+road with so few people, but must go to his brother Moenempanda, and
+he would send men to guide me to him, and thence he would send me
+safely by his path along Lake Moero: this was all very good.
+
+_23rd May, 1868._--The Arabs made a sort of sacrifice of a goat which
+was cooked all at once; they sent a good dish of it to me. They read
+the Koran very industriously, and prayed for success or luck in
+leaving, and seem sincerely religious, according to the light that is
+in them. The use of incense and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish
+times to mind.
+
+A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet an hour south
+of this, to build huts; there they are to take leave of Casembe, for
+the main body goes off to-morrow, after we have seen the new moon.
+They are very particular in selecting lucky days, and anything
+unpleasant that may have happened in one month is supposed to be
+avoided by choosing a different day for beginning an enterprise in the
+next. Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new moon, and several
+fires happened in his camp; he now considers a third day inauspicious.
+
+Casembe's dura or sorghum is ripe to-day: he has eaten mapemba or
+dura, and all may thereafter do the same: this is just about the time
+when it ripens and is reaped at Kolobeng, thus the difference in the
+seasons is not great.
+
+_24th May, 1868._--Detained four days yet. Casembe's chief men refuse
+to escort Mohamad Bogharib; they know him to be in debt, and fear that
+he may be angry, but no dunning was intended. Casembe was making every
+effort to get ivory to liquidate it, and at last got a couple of
+tusks, which he joyfully gave to Mohamad: he has risen much in the
+estimation of us all.
+
+_26th May, 1868._--Casembe's people killed five buffaloes by chasing
+them into the mud and water of Mofwe, so he is seeing to the division
+of the meat, and will take leave to-morrow.
+
+_28th May, 1868._--We went to Casembe; he was as gracious as usual. A
+case of crim. con. was brought forward against an Arab's slave, and an
+attempt was made to arrange the matter privately by offering three
+cloths, beads, and another slave, but the complainant refused
+everything. Casembe dismissed the case by saying to the complainant,
+"You send your women to entrap the strangers in order to get a fine,
+but you will get nothing:" this was highly applauded by the Arabs, and
+the owner of the slave heaped dust on his head, as many had done
+before for favours received. Casembe, still anxious to get ivory for
+Mohamad, proposed another delay of four days to send for it; but all
+are tired, and it is evident that it is not want of will that prevents
+ivory being produced.
+
+His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed inability: he
+is evidently very poor.
+
+_30th May, 1868._--We went to the Kanengwa rivulet at the south end
+of Mofwe, which forms a little lagoon there fifty yards broad and
+thigh deep; but this is not the important feeder of the Lagoon, which
+is from two to three miles broad, and nearly four long: that has many
+large flat sedgy islands in it, and its water is supplied by the
+Mbereze from south-east.
+
+_31st May, 1868._--Old Kapika sold his young and good-looking wife for
+unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of a lady in the chain-gang
+shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to her, and having ascertained
+from her own mouth what was sufficiently apparent, that she was a
+slave now, clapped their hands on their mouths in the way that they
+express wonder, surprise, and horror: the hand is placed so that the
+fingers are on one cheek and the thumb on the other.
+
+The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among the people;
+some brought her food, Kapika's daughters brought her pombe and
+bananas; one man offered to redeem her with two, another with three
+slaves, but Casembe, who is very strict in punishing infidelity, said,
+"No, though ten slaves be offered she must go." He is probably afraid
+of his own beautiful queen should the law be relaxed. Old Kapika came
+and said to her, "You refused me, and I now refuse you." A young wife
+of old Perembe was also sold as a punishment, but redeemed.
+
+There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall men in this
+district. The slave-trader is a means of punishing the wives which
+these old fogies ought never to have had.
+
+Casembe sent me about a hundredweight of the small fish Nsipo, which
+seems to be the whitebait of our country; it is a little bitter when
+cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a tolerable relish: we can buy
+flour with these at Chikumbi's.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[60] Chikichi nuts have been an article of trade and export for some
+time from Zanzibar. The oil-palm grows wild in Pemba.
+
+[61] A chief named Moene Ungu, who admires the Arabs, sent his
+children to Zanzibar to be instructed to read and write.
+
+[62] This bird is often brought to Zanzibar by the Ivory Caravans.
+
+[63] The Doctor's birthday.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June,
+    1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo.
+    Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bembo changed
+    to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's
+    stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th
+    July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake.
+    Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifunge Island. Immense
+    size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of
+    canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets
+    Banyamweze. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed
+    state of country.
+
+
+_1st June, 1868._--Mohamad proposes to go to Katanga to buy copper,
+and invites me to go too. I wish to see the Lufra Kiver, but I must
+see Bemba or Bangweolo. Grant guidance from above!
+
+_2nd June, 1868._--In passing a field of cassava I picked the pods of
+a plant called Malumbi, which climbs up the cassava bushes; at the
+root it has a number of tubers with eyes, exactly like the potato. One
+plant had sixteen of these tubers, each about 2 inches long and 1-1/2
+inch in diameter: another tuber was 5 inches long and 2 in diameter,
+it would be difficult for anyone to distinguish them from English
+potatoes. When boiled they are a little waxy, and, compared with our
+potato, hard. There are colours inside, the outer part reddish, the
+inner whiter. At first none of the party knew them, but afterwards
+they were recognised as cultivated at Zanzibar by the name "Men," and
+very good when mashed with fish: if in Zanzibar, they are probably
+known in other tropical islands,
+
+_4th June, 1868._--From what I see of slaving, even in its best
+phases, I would not be a slave-dealer for the world.
+
+_5th June, 1868._--The Queen Moaeri passed us this morning, going to
+build a hut at her plantation; she has a pleasant European
+countenance, clean light-brown skin, and a merry laugh, and would be
+admired anywhere. I stood among the cassava to see her pass; she
+twirled her umbrella as she came near, borne by twelve men, and seemed
+to take up the laugh which made her and her maids bolt at my
+reception, showing that she laughs not with her mouth only, but with
+her eyes and cheeks: she said, "Yambo" (how are you)? To which I
+replied, "Tambo sana" (very well). One of her attendants said, "Give
+her something of what you have at hand, or in the pockets." I said, "I
+have nothing here," and asked her if she would come back near my hut.
+She replied that she would, and I duly sent for two strings of red
+beads, which I presented. Being lower than she, I could see that she
+had a hole through the cartilage, near the point of her slightly
+aquiline nose; and a space was filed between the two front teeth, so
+as to leave a triangular hole.
+
+[Illustration: Filed Teeth of Queen Moaeri.]
+
+After delay had grown vexatious, we march three hours on the 9th, and
+reach the Katofia River, covered with aquatic trees and running into
+the Mbereze: five yards wide and knee deep.
+
+_10th June, 1868._--Detained again, for business is not finished with
+the people of Casembe. The people cannot esteem the slave-trader, who
+is used as a means of punishing those who have family differences, as
+those of a wife with her husband, or a servant with his master. The
+slaves are said to be generally criminals, and are sold in revenge or
+as punishment. Kapika's wife had an ornament of the end of a shell
+called the cone; it was borrowed and she came away with it in her
+hair: the owner, without making any effort to recover it, seized one
+of Kapika's daughters as a pledge that Kapika would exert himself to
+get it back!
+
+[At last the tedious delay came to an end and we must now follow the
+Doctor on his way south to discover Lake Bemba.]
+
+_11th June, 1868._--Crossed the Mbereze, ten yards broad and thigh
+deep, ascending a range of low hills of hardened sandstone, covered,
+as the country generally is, with forest. Our course S.E. and S.S.E.
+Then descended into a densely-wooded valley, having a rivulet four
+yards wide and knee deep. Buffaloes and elephants very numerous.
+
+_12th June, 1868._--We crossed the Mbereze again twice; then a very
+deep narrow rivulet, and stopped at another in a mass of trees, where
+we spend the night, and killing an ox remained next day to eat it.
+When at Kanengwa a small party of men came past, shouting as if they
+had done something of importance: on going to them, I found that two
+of them carried a lion slung to a pole. It was a small maneless
+variety, called "the lion of _Nyassi_," or long grass. It had killed a
+man and they killed it. They had its mouth carefully strapped, and the
+paws tied across its chest, and were taking it to Casembe. _Nyassi_
+means long grass, such as towers overhead, and is as thick in the
+stalk as a goose-quill; and is erroneously applied to Nyassa. Other
+lions--Thambwe, Karamo, Simba, are said to stand 5 feet high, and some
+higher: this seemed about 3 feet high, but it was too dark to measure
+it.
+
+_13th June, 1868._--The Arabs distinguish the Suaheli, or Arabs of
+mixed African blood, by the absence of beard and whiskers: these are
+usually small and stunted in the Suaheli.
+
+Birds, as the Drongo shrike, and a bird very like the grey linnet,
+with a thick reddish bill, assemble in very large flocks now that it
+is winter, and continue thus till November, or period of the rains.
+
+A very minute bee goes into the common small holes in wormeaten wood
+to make a comb and lay its eggs, with a supply of honey. There are
+seven or eight honey-bees of small size in this country.
+
+A sphex may be seen to make holes in the ground, placing stupified
+insects in them with her eggs; another species watches when she goes
+off to get more insects, and every now and then goes in too to lay her
+eggs, I suppose without any labour: there does not appear to be any
+enmity between them. We remained a day to buy food for the party, and
+eat our ox.
+
+_14th June, 1868._--March over well-wooded highlands with dolomite
+rocks cropping out and trees all covered with lichens, the watershed
+then changed to the south.
+
+_15th June, 1868._--Yery cold in mornings now (43 deg.). Found
+Moenempanda, Casembe's brother, on the Luluputa, a stream twenty yards
+wide and flowing west. The Moenempanda visited by the Portuguese was
+grandfather to this one, and not at the same spot; it is useless to
+put down the names of chiefs as indicating geographical positions, for
+the name is often continued, but at a spot far distant from the
+dwelling of the original possessor. A slave tried to break out of his
+slave-stick, and actually broke half an inch of tough iron with his
+fingers; the end stuck in the wood, or he would have freed himself.
+
+The chief gave me a public reception, which was like that of Casembe,
+but better managed. He is young, and very handsome but for a defect in
+his eyes, which makes him keep them half shut or squinting. He walked
+off in the jaunty way all chiefs do in this country, to show the
+weight of rings and beads on the legs, and many imitate this walk who
+have none, exactly as our fathers imitated the big cravat of George
+IV., who thereby hid defects in his neck: thousands carried their
+cravats over the chin who had no defects to hide. Moenempanda carried
+his back stiffly, and no wonder, he had about ten yards of a train
+carried behind it. About 600 people were present. They kept rank, but
+not step; were well armed; marimbas and square drums formed the bands,
+and one musician added his voice: "I have been to Syde" (the Sultan);
+"I have been to Meereput" (King of Portugal); "I have been to the
+sea." At a private reception, where he was divested of his train, and
+had only one umbrella instead of three, I gave him a cloth. The Arabs
+thought highly of him; but his graciousness had been expended on them
+in getting into debt; he now showed no inclination to get out of it,
+but offered about a twentieth part of the value of the goods in
+liquidation. He sent me two pots of beer, which I care not to drink
+except when very thirsty on a march, and promised a man to guide me to
+Chikumbi, and then refused. Casembe rose in the esteem of all as
+Moenempanda sank, and his people were made to understand how shabbily
+he had behaved.
+
+The Lulaputa is said to flow into the Luena, and that into the Luongo:
+there must be two Luenas.
+
+_22nd June, 1868._--March across a grassy plain southerly to the
+Luongo, a deep river embowered in a dense forest of trees, all covered
+with lichens--some flat, others long and thready, like old men's
+beards, and waving in the wind, just as they do on the mangrove-swamp
+trees on the coast. The Luongo here is fifty yards broad and three
+fathoms deep; near its junction with the Luapula it is 100 yards; it
+rises here to eight fathoms' depth. A bridge of forty yards led us
+over to an island, and a branch of the river was ten yards beyond: the
+bridge had been broken, some thought on purpose, but it was soon
+mended with trees eighteen to twenty yards long. We went a little way
+beyond, and then halted for a day at a rivulet flowing into the
+Luongo, 200 yards off.
+
+_23rd June, 1868._--We waited for copper here, which was at first
+refused as payment of debt. I saw now that the Luongo had steep clay
+banks fifteen feet down, and many meadows, which must be swimming
+during the rains. The Luena is said to rise east of this.
+
+[In a private letter Livingstone shows that he had seldom been more
+affected by the sufferings of slaves than at this time, and it would
+perhaps be difficult to imagine any scene more calculated to excite
+misery and distress of mind.
+
+The following incident deals with the firm belief in a future state,
+which enters so largely into the minds of all Africans, and which for
+very lack of guidance assumes all the distorted growths of
+superstition.
+
+He must be of a thankless spirit who does not long to substitute the
+great vision of future peace afforded by Christianity, in lieu of the
+ghastly satisfaction which cheered these men, when he sees by the
+light of this story the capacity that exists for realising a life
+beyond the grave.]
+
+_24th June, 1868._--Six men slaves were singing as if they did not
+feel the weight and degradation of the slave-sticks. I asked the cause
+of their mirth, and was told that they rejoiced at the idea "of coming
+back after death and haunting and killing those who had sold them."
+Some of the words I had to inquire about; for instance, the meaning of
+the words "to haunt and kill by spirit power;" then it was, "Oh, you
+sent me off to Manga (sea-coast), but the yoke is off when I die, and
+back I shall come to haunt and to kill you." Then all joined in the
+chorus, which was the name of each vendor. It told not of fun, but of
+the bitterness and tears of such as were oppressed, and on the side
+of the oppressors there was a power: there be higher than they!
+
+Perembe was one of the culprits thus menaced. The slave-owner asked
+Kapika's wife if she would return to kill Kapika. The others answered
+to the names of the different men with laughter. Her heart was
+evidently sore: for a lady to come so low down is to her grievous. She
+has lost her jaunty air, and is, with her head shaved, ugly; but she
+never forgets to address her captors with dignity, and they seem to
+fear her.
+
+_25th June, 1868._--We went over flat forest with patches of brown
+haematite cropping out; this is the usual iron ore, but I saw in a
+village pieces of specular iron-ore which had been brought for
+smelting. The Luongo flowed away somewhat to our right or west, and
+the villagers had selected their site where only well-water could be
+found: we went ten minutes towards the Luongo and got abundance.
+
+[Illustration: A Forest Grave.]
+
+The gardens had high hedges round to keep off wild beasts. We came to
+a grave in the forest; it was a little rounded mound as if the
+occupant sat in it in the usual native way: it was strewed over with
+flour, and a number of the large blue beads put on it: a little path
+showed that it had visitors. This is the sort of grave I should
+prefer: to lie in the still, still forest, and no hand ever disturb my
+bones. The graves at home always seemed to me to be miserable,
+especially those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow room; but I
+have nothing to do but wait till He who is over all decides where I
+have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga brae, "and
+beeks fornent the sun."[64]
+
+Came to the Chando River, which is the boundary between Casembe and
+Chikumbi; but Casembe is over all.
+
+_27th June, 1868._--We crossed a flooded marsh with the water very
+cold, and then the Chando itself twelve feet broad and knee deep, then
+on to another strong brook Nsenga.
+
+_28th June, 1868._--After service we went on up hills to a stockade of
+Banyamwezi, on the Kalomina River, and here we built our sheds; the
+spot is called Kizinga, and is on the top of a sandstone range covered
+as usual with forest. The Banyamwezi beat off the Mazitu with their
+guns, while all the country people fled. The Banyamwezi are decidedly
+uglier than the Balonda and Baitawa: they eat no fish, though they
+come from the east side of Tanganyika, where fish are abundant and
+cheap; but though uglier, they have more of the sense of honour with
+traders than the aborigines.
+
+_29th June, 1868._--Observed the "smokes" to-day, the first of the
+season:[65] they obscured the whole country.
+
+_1st July, 1868._--I went over to Chikumbi, the paramount chief of
+this district, and gave him a cloth, begging a man to guide me to
+Bangweolo. He said that I was welcome to his country; all were so: I
+had better wait two days till he had selected a _good_ man as a guide,
+and he would send some food for me to eat in the journey--he would not
+say ten days, but only two, and his man would take me to the smaller
+part of the Lake, and leave others to forward me to the greater or
+Bangweolo. The smaller part is named Bemba, but that name is
+confusing, because Bemba is the name of the country in which a portion
+of the Lake lies. When asking for Lake Bemba, Kasongo's son said to
+me, "Bemba is not a lake, but a country:" it is therefore better to
+use the name BANGWEOLO, which is applied to the great mass of the
+water, though I fear that our English folks will bogle at it, or call
+it Bungyhollow! Some Arabs say Bambeolo as easier of pronunciation,
+but Bangweolo is the correct word. Chikumbi's stockade is 1-1/2 hour
+S.E. of our camp at Kizinga.
+
+_2nd July, 1868._--Writing to the Consul at Zanzibar to send supplies
+of cloth to Ujiji--120 pieces, 40 Kiniki; 80 merikano 34 inches broad,
+or samsam. Fine red beads--Talaka, 12 frasilas. I ask for soap,
+coffee, sugar, candles, sardines, French preserved meats, a cheese in
+tin, Nautical Almanac for 1869 and 1870, shoes (two or four pairs),
+ruled paper, pencils, sealing-wax, ink, powder, flannel-serge, 12
+frasila beads, 6 of Talaka; added 3 F. pale red, 3 W. white.
+
+_3rd July, 1868._--The summary of the sources which I have resolved to
+report as flowing into the central line of drainage formed by the
+Chambeze, Luapula, and Lualaba are thirteen in all, and each is larger
+than the Isis at Oxford, or Avon at Hamilton. Five flow into the
+eastern line of drainage going through Tanganyika, and five more into
+the western line of drainage or Lufira, twenty-three or more in all.
+The Lualaba and the Lufira unite in the Lake of the chief Kinkonza.
+
+_5th July, 1868._--I borrowed some paper from Mohamad Bogharib to
+write home by some Arabs going to the coast. I will announce my
+discovery to Lord Clarendon; but I reserve the parts of the Lualaba
+and Tanganyika for future confirmation. I have no doubts on the
+subject, for I receive the reports of natives of intelligence at first
+hand, and they have no motive for deceiving me. The best maps are
+formed from the same sort of reports at third or fourth hand. Cold
+N.E. winds prevail at present.
+
+_6th July, 1868._--Divided our salt that each may buy provisions for
+himself: it is here of more value than beads. Chikumbi sent fine
+flour, a load for two stout men carried in a large basket slung to a
+pole, and a fine fat sheep, carried too because it was too fat to walk
+the distance from his stockade.
+
+_7th, 8th, and 9th July, 1868._--After delaying several days to send
+our guide, Chikumbi said that he feared the country people would say
+that the Ingleza brought the Mazitu to them, and so blame will be
+given to him. I set this down as "words of pombe," beery babble; but
+after returning from Bangweolo, I saw that he must have been preparing
+to attack a stockade of Banyamwezi in our path, and had he given us a
+guide, that man would have been in danger in coming back: he therefore
+preferred the safety of his man to keeping his promise to me. I got a
+Banyamwezi guide, and left on the _10th July, 1868_, going over gently
+rising sandstone hills, covered with forest and seeing many deserted
+villages, the effects of the Mazitu foray: we saw also the Mazitu
+sleeping-places and paths. They neglect the common paths of the
+country as going from one village to another, and take straight
+courses in the direction they wish to go, treading down the grass so
+as to make a well-marked route, The Banyamwezi expelled them, cutting
+off so many of them with their guns and arrows that the marauders
+retired. The effect of this success on the minds of the Imboshwa, or
+Imbozhwas, as Chikumbi's people are called, was not gratitude, but
+envy at the new power sprung up among them of those who came
+originally as traders in copper.
+
+Kombokombo's stockade, the village to which we went this day, was the
+first object of assault, and when we returned, he told us that
+Chikumbi had assaulted him on three sides, but was repulsed. The
+Banyamwezi were, moreover, much too sharp as traders for the
+Imboshwa, cheating them unmercifully, and lying like Greeks.
+Kombokombo's stockade was on the Chiberase River, which flows briskly,
+eight yards broad and deep, through a mile of sponge. We came in the
+midst of a general jollification, and were most bountifully supplied
+with pombe and food. The Banyamwezi acknowledge allegiance to the
+Sultan of Zanzibar, and all connected with him are respected.
+Kombokombo pressed food and drink on me, and when I told him that I
+had nothing to return for it, he said that he expected nothing: he was
+a child of the Sultan, and ought to furnish all I needed.
+
+_11th July, 1868._--On leaving the Chiberase we passed up over a long
+line of hills with many villages and gardens, but mostly deserted
+during the Mazitu raid. The people fled into the forests on the hills,
+and were an easy prey to the marauders, who seem to have been
+unmerciful. When we descended into the valley beyond we came to a
+strong stockade, which had successfully resisted the onset of the
+Mazitu; we then entered on flat forest, with here and there sponges
+containing plenty of water; plains succeeded the hills, and continued
+all the way to Bangweolo. We made a fence in the forest; and next day
+_(12th July)_ reached the Rofuba, 50 yards broad and 4-1/2 feet deep,
+full of aquatic plants, and flowing south-west into the Luongo: it had
+about a mile and a half of sponge on each side of it. We encamped a
+little south of the river.
+
+_13th July, 1868._--On resting at a deserted spot, the men of a
+village in the vicinity came to us excited and apparently drunk, and
+began to work themselves up still more by running about, poising their
+spears at us, taking aim with their bows and arrows, and making as if
+about to strike with their axes: they thought that we were marauders,
+and some plants of ground-nuts strewn about gave colour to the idea.
+There is usually one good soul in such rabbles. In this case a man
+came to me, and, addressing his fellows, said, "This is only your
+pombe. White man, do not stand among them, but go away," and then he
+placed himself between me and a portion of the assailants, about
+thirty of whom were making their warlike antics. While walking quietly
+away with my good friend they ran in front and behind bushes and
+trees, took aim with bow and arrow, but none shot: the younger men ran
+away with our three goats. When we had gone a quarter of a mile my
+friend told me to wait and he would bring the goats, which he did: I
+could not feel the inebriates to be enemies; but in that state they
+are the worst one can encounter, for they have no fear as they have
+when sober. One snatched away a fowl from our guide, that too was
+restored by our friend. I did not load my gun; for any accidental
+discharge would have inflamed them to rashness. We got away without
+shedding blood, and were thankful. The Mazitu raid has produced
+lawlessness in the country: every one was taken as an enemy.
+
+_14th July, 1868._--We remained a day at the stockade of Moieggea. A
+Banyamwezi or Garaganza man is settled here in Kabaia's district, and
+on the strong rivulet called Mato. We felt secure only among the
+strangers, and they were friendly with us.
+
+_15th July, 1868._--At the village on the south bank of the Mpanda we
+were taken by the headman as Mazitu. He was evidently intoxicated, and
+began to shut his gates with frantic gesticulations. I offered to go
+away; but others of his people, equally intoxicated, insisted on my
+remaining. I sat down a little, but seeing that the chief was still
+alarmed, I said to his people, "The chief objects and I can't stay:"
+they saw the reasonableness of this, but I could not get my cowardly
+attendants to come on, though one said to me, "Come, I shall show you
+the way: we must speak nice to them." This the wise boys think the
+perfection of virtue, speaking nice means adopting a childish treble
+tone of voice and words exactly similar to those of the little Scotch
+girl who, passing through a meadow, was approached by a cow, probably
+from curiosity. To appease this enemy, she said, "Oh, coo, coo, if you
+no hurt me, I no hurt you." I told them to come on and leave them
+quietly, but they remained babbling with them. The guide said that
+there was no water in front: this I have been told too often ever to
+believe, so I went on through the forest, and in an hour and a half
+came to a sponge where, being joined by my attendants, we passed the
+night.
+
+_16th July, 1868._--Crossing this sponge, and passing through flat
+forest, we came to another named Meshwe, when there, as a contrast,
+the young men volunteered to carry me across; but I had got off my
+shoes, and was in the water, and they came along with me, showing the
+shallower parts. We finished the day's march by crossing the Molongosi
+spongy ooze, with 150 paces of deep water, flowing N.E. The water in
+these oozes or sponges felt very cold, though only 60 deg. in the
+mornings, and 65 deg. at midday. The Molongosi people invited us into the
+village; but the forest, unless when infested with leopards and lions,
+is always preferable, for one is free from vermin, and free from
+curiosity gazers, who in the village think they have a right to stare,
+but in the forest feel that they are not on an equality with
+strangers.
+
+[It was on the 18th of July, 1868, we see that Dr. Livingstone
+discovered one of the largest of the Central African Lakes. It is
+extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm,
+as--almost parenthetically--he records the fact.]
+
+_17th and 18th July, 1868._--Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near
+the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th I walked a little way out
+and saw the shores of the Lake for the first time, thankful that I had
+come safely hither.
+
+I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and gave him a
+fathom of calico as all I could spare: I told him that as soon as I
+had seen and measured the Lake I would return north; he replied, that
+seeing our goods were done he could say nothing, he would give me
+guides, and what else he should do was known to himself. He gave a
+public reception at once. I asked if he had ever seen anyone like me,
+and he said, "Never." A Babisa traveller asked me why I had come so
+far; I said I wished to make the country and people better known to
+the rest of the world, that we were all children of one Father, and I
+was anxious that we should know each other better, and that friendly
+visits should be made in safety. I told him what the Queen had done to
+encourage the growth of cotton on the Zambezi, and how we had been
+thwarted by slave-traders and their abettors: they were pleased with
+this. When asked I showed them my note-book, watch, compass,
+burning-glass, and was loudly drummed home.
+
+I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its contents. I
+shall require a few days more at Bangweolo than I at first intended.
+The moon being in its last stage of waning I cannot observe till it is
+of some size.
+
+_19th July, 1868._--Went down to Masantu's village, which is on the
+shore of the Lake, and by a spring called Chipoka, which comes out of
+a mass of disintegrated granite. It is seldom that we see a spring
+welling out beneath a rock: they are covered by oozing sponges, if
+indeed they exist. Here we had as a spectator a man walking on stilts
+tied to his ankles and knees. There are a great many Babisa among the
+people. The women have their hair ornamented with strings of cowries,
+and well oiled with the oil and fat from the seeds of the Mosikisi
+trees. I sent the chief a fathom of calico, and got an audience at
+once. Masantu is an oldish man; had never prayed to the Great Father
+of all, though he said the footsteps of "Mungu," or Mulungu, could be
+seen on a part of Lifunge Island: a large footstep may also be seen on
+the rock at the Chambeze, about fifteen inches long. He informed us
+that the Lake is much the largest at the part called Bangweolo.
+
+The country around the Lake is all flat, and very much denuded of
+trees, except the Motsikiri or Mosikisi, which has fine dark, dense
+foliage, and is spared for its shade and the fatty oil yielded by its
+seeds: we saw the people boiling large pots full of the dark brown
+fat, which they use to lubricate their hair. The islands, four in
+number, are all flat, but well peopled. The men have many canoes, and
+are all expert fishermen; they are called Mboghwa, but are marked on
+the forehead and chin as Babisa, and file the teeth to points. They
+have many children, as fishermen usually have.
+
+_21st July, 1868._--Canoe-men are usually extortionate, because one
+cannot do without them. Mapuni claims authority over them, and sent to
+demand another fathom that he may give orders to them to go with us: I
+gave a hoe and a string of beads instead, but he insisted on the
+cloth, and kept the hoe too, as I could not afford the time to haggle.
+
+    Chipoka spring water at 9 A.M. 75 deg. }
+    Lake water at same time  71 deg.       } air 72 deg.
+
+    Chipoka spring at 4 P.M. 74 deg. 5'    } air 71 deg. 5';
+    Lake water at same time 75 deg.        } wet bulb 70 deg.
+
+No hot fountains or earthquakes are known in this region. The bottom
+of the Lake consists of fine white sand, and a broad belt of strong
+rushes, say 100 yards wide, shows shallow water. In the afternoons
+quite a crowd of canoes anchor at its outer edge to angle; the hooks
+are like ours, but without barbs. The fish are perch chiefly, but
+others similar to those that appear in the other Lakes are found, and
+two which attain the large size of 4 feet by 1-1/2 in. thickness: one
+is called Sampa.
+
+_22nd July, 1868._--A very high wind came with the new moon, and
+prevented our going, and also the fishermen from following their
+calling. Mapuni thought that we meant to make, an escape from him to
+the Babisa on the south, because we were taking our goats, I therefore
+left them and two attendants at Masantu's village to assure him.
+
+_23rd July, 1868._--Wind still too strong to go. Took lunars.
+
+_24th July, 1868._--Wind still strong.
+
+_25th July, 1868._--Strong S.E. wind still blowing, but having paid
+the canoe-men amply for four days with beads, and given Masantu a hoe
+and beads too, we embarked at 11.40 A.M. in a fine canoe, 45 feet
+long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad. The waves were high, but the
+canoe was very dry and five stout men propelled her quickly towards an
+opening in Lifunge Island, on our S.E. Here we stopped to wood, and I
+went away to look at the island, which had the marks of hippopotami
+and a species of jackal on it: it had hard wiry grass, some flowers,
+and a species of Gapparidaceous tree. The trees showed well the
+direction of the prevailing wind to be south-east, for the branches on
+that side were stunted or killed, while those on the north-west ran
+out straight, and made the trees appear, as sailors say, lopsided: the
+trunks too were bent that way.
+
+The canoe-men now said that they would start, then that they would
+sleep here, because we could not reach the Island Mpabala before dark,
+and would not get a hut. I said that it would be sleeping out of doors
+only in either case, so they went. We could see the island called Kisi
+on our east, apparently a double island, about 15 miles off, and the
+tops of the trees barely visible on Mpabala on our south-east. It was
+all sea horizon on our south and north, between Lifunge and Mpabala,
+and between Lifunge and Kisi. We could not go to Kisi, because, as the
+canoe-men told us, they had stolen their canoe thence. Though we
+decided to go, we remained awhile to let the sea go down. A
+hammerhead's nest on one of the trees was fully four feet high. Coarse
+rushes show the shoals near the islands. Only one shell was seen on
+the shores. The canoe ships much less water in this surf than our boat
+did in that of Nyassa. The water is of a deep sea-green colour,
+probably from the reflection of the fine white sand of the bottom; we
+saw no part having the deep dark blue of Nyassa, and conjecture that
+the depth is not great; but I had to leave our line when Amoda
+absconded. On Kisi we observed a dark square mass, which at first I
+took to be a low hill: it turned out to be a mass of trees (probably
+the place of sepulture, for the graveyards are always untouched), and
+shows what a dense forest this land would become were it not for the
+influence of men.
+
+We reached Mpabala after dark. It was bitterly cold, from the amount
+of moisture in the air. I asked a man who came to see what the arrival
+was, for a hut; he said, "Do strangers require huts, or ask for them
+at night?" he then led us to the public place of meeting, called
+Nsaka, which is a large shed, with planks around and open spaces
+between, instead of walls; here we cooked a little porridge, and ate
+it, then I lay down on one side, with the canoe-men and my attendants
+at the fire in the middle, and was soon asleep, and dreamed that I had
+apartments in Mivart's Hotel. This made me feel much amused next day,
+for I never dream unless I am ill, or going to be ill; and of all
+places in the world, I never thought of Mivart's Hotel in my waking
+moments; a freak of the fancy surely, for I was not at all
+discontented with my fare, or apartment, I was only afraid of getting
+a stock of vermin from my associates.
+
+_26th July, 1868._--I have to stand the stare of a crowd of people at
+every new place for hours: all usually talk as quickly as their glib
+tongues can; these certainly do not belong to the tribes who are
+supposed to eke out their language by signs! A few indulge their
+curiosity in sight-seeing, but go on steadily weaving nets, or by
+beating bark-cloth, or in spinning cotton, others smoke their big
+tobacco pipes, or nurse a baby, or enjoy the heat of the bright
+morning sun. I walked across the north end of the island, and found it
+to be about one mile broad, I also took bearings of Chirubi Island
+from the eastern point of Mpabala, and found from the south-east point
+of Chirubi that there are 183 deg. of sea horizon from it to the point of
+departure of the Luapula. Chirubi is the largest of the islands, and
+contains a large population, possessing many sheep and goats. At the
+highest part of Mpabala we could see the tops of the trees on Kasango,
+a small uninhabited islet, about thirty miles distant: the tops of the
+trees were evidently lifted up by the mirage, for near the shore and
+at other parts they were invisible, even with a good glass. This
+uninhabited islet would have been our second stage had we been allowed
+to cross the Lake, as it is of the people themselves; it is as far
+beyond it to the mainland, called Manda, as from Masantu's to Mpabala.
+
+_27th July, 1868._--Took lunars and stars for latitude.
+
+The canoe-men now got into a flurry, because they were told here that
+the Kisi men had got an inkling that their canoe was here, and were
+coming to take it; they said to me that they would come back for me,
+but I could not trust thieves to be so honest. I thought of seizing
+their paddles, and appealing to the headmen of the island; but aware
+from past experience how easy it is for acknowledged thieves like them
+to get up a tale to secure the cheap sympathy of the soft-headed, or
+tender-hearted, I resolved to bear with meekness, though groaning
+inwardly, the loss of two of the four days for which I had paid them.
+I had only my coverlet to hire another canoe, and it was now very
+cold; the few beads left would all be required to buy food in the way
+back, I might have got food by shooting buffaloes, but that on foot
+and through grass, with stalks as thick as a goose quill, is
+dreadfully hard work; I had thus to return to Masantu's, and trust to
+the distances as deduced from the time taken by the natives in their
+canoes for the size of the Lake.
+
+We had come to Mpabala at the rate of six knots an hour, and returned
+in the same time with six stout paddlers. The latitude was 12' in a
+south-east course, which may give 24' as the actual distance. To the
+sleeping-place, the Islet Kasango, there was at least 28' more, and
+from thence to the mainland "Manda," other 28'. This 24 + 28 + 28 =
+80' as the breadth from Masantu village, looking south-east. It lies
+in 11 deg. 0' S. If we add on the half distance to this we have 11 deg.
+40' as the latitude of Manda. The mainland to the south of Mpabala is
+called Kabende. The land's end running south of Masantu's village is the
+entrance to the Luapula: the clearest eye cannot see across it there.
+I saw clouds as if of grass burning, but they were probably "Kungu,"
+an edible insect, whose masses have exactly the same appearance as
+they float above and on the water. From the time the canoes take to go
+to Kabende I believe the southern shore to be a little into 12 deg. of
+south latitude: the length, as inferred from canoes taking ten days to
+go from Mpabala to the Chambeze, I take to be 150 miles, probably
+more. No one gave a shorter time than that. The Luapula is an arm of
+the Lake for some twenty miles, and beyond that is never narrower than
+from 180 to 200 yards, generally much broader, and may be compared
+with the Thames at London Bridge: I think that I am considerably
+within the mark in setting down Bangweolo as 150 miles long by 80
+broad.
+
+When told that it contained four large islands, I imagined that these
+would considerably diminish the watery acreage of the whole, as is
+said to be the case with five islands in Ukerewe; but even the largest
+island, Chirubi, does not in the least dwarf the enormous mass of the
+water of Bangweolo. A range of mountains, named Lokinga, extends from
+the south-east to the south-west: some small burns come down from
+them, but no river; this range joins the Kone, or Mokone range, west
+of Katanga, from which on one side rises the Lufira, and on the other
+the Liambai, or Zambesi. The river of Manda, called Matanga, is only a
+departing and re-entering branch of the Lake, also the Luma and Loela
+rivers--some thirty yards broad--have each to be examined as springs
+on the south of the Lake.
+
+_July 29th, 1868._--Not a single case of Derbyshire neck, or of
+Elephantiasis, was observed anywhere near the Lake, consequently the
+report we had of its extreme unhealthiness was erroneous: no muddy
+banks did we see, but in the way to it we had to cross so many
+sponges, or oozes, that the word _matope_, mud, was quite applicable;
+and I suspect, if we had come earlier, that we should have experienced
+great difficulty in getting to the Lake at all.
+
+_30th July, 1868._--We commenced our march back, being eager to get to
+Chikumbi's in case Mohamad should go thence to Katanga. We touched at
+Mapuni's, and then went on to the Molongosi. Clouds now began to cover
+the sky to the Mpanda, which has fifteen yards of flood, though the
+stream itself is only five yards wide, then on to the Mato and
+Moiegge's stockade, where we heard of Chikumbi's attack on
+Kombokombo's. Moiegge had taken the hint, and was finishing a second
+line of defence around his village: we reached him on the 1st August,
+1868, and stopped for Sunday the 2nd: on the 3rd back to the Rofubu,
+where I was fortunate enough to hire a canoe to take me over.
+
+In examining a tsetse fly very carefully I see that it has a
+receptacle at the root of the piercer, which is of a black or dark-red
+colour; and when it is squeezed, a clear fluid is pressed out at its
+point: the other two parts of the proboscis are its shield, and have
+no bulb at the base. The bulb was pronounced at the Royal Society to
+be only muscle, but it is curious that muscle should be furnished
+where none is needed, and withheld in the movable parts of the shield
+where it is decidedly needed.
+
+_5th August, 1868._--Reach Kombokombo, who is very liberal, and
+pressed us to stay a day with him as well as with others; we complied,
+and found that Mohamad had gone nowhere.
+
+_7th August, 1868._--We found a party starting from Kizinga for the
+coast, having our letters with them; it will take five months to reach
+the sea. The disturbed state of the country prevented parties of
+traders proceeding in various directions, and one that set off on the
+same day with us was obliged to return. Mohamad has resolved to go to
+Manyuema as soon as parties of his men now out return: this is all in
+my favour; it is in the way I want to go to see the Lualaba and Lufira
+to Chowambe. The way seems opening out before me, and I am thankful. I
+resolved to go north by way of Casembe, and guides were ready to
+start, so was I; but rumours of war where we were going induced me to
+halt to find out the truth: the guides (Banyamwezi) were going to
+divine, by means of a cock, to see if it would be lucky to go with me
+at present. The rumours of danger became so circumstantial that our
+fence was needed: a well was dug inside, and the Banyamwezi were
+employed to smelt copper as for the market of Manyuema, and balls for
+war. Syde bin Omar soon came over the Luapula from Iramba, and the
+state of confusion induced the traders to agree to unite their forces
+and make a safe retreat out of the country. They objected very
+strongly to my going away down the right bank of the Luapula with my
+small party, though it was in sight, so I resolved to remain till all
+went.
+
+_13th August, 1868._--The Banyamwezi use a hammer shaped like a cone,
+without a handle. They have both kinds of bellows, one of goatskin the
+other of wood, with a skin over the mouth of a drum, and a handle tied
+to the middle of it; with these they smelt pieces of the large bars of
+copper into a pot, filled nearly full of wood ashes. The fire is
+surrounded by masses of anthills, and in these there are hollows made
+to receive the melted metal: the metal is poured while the pot is held
+with the hands, protected by wet rags.
+
+_15th August, 1868._--Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from Muaboso on
+Chambeze in six days, crossing in that space twenty-two burns or
+oozes, from knee to waist deep.
+
+Very high and cold winds prevail at present. It was proposed to punish
+Chikumbi when Syde bin Omar came, as he is in debt and refuses
+payment; but I go off to Casembe.
+
+I learn that there is another hot fountain in the Baloba country,
+called Fungwe; this, with Kapira and Vana, makes three hot fountains
+in this region.
+
+Some people were killed in my path to Casembe, so this was an
+additional argument against my going that way.
+
+Some Banyamwezi report a tribe--the Bonyolo--that extract the upper
+front teeth, like Batoka; they are near Loanda, and Lake Chipokola is
+there, probably the same as Kinkonza. Feeling my way. All the trees
+are now pushing out fresh young leaves of different colours: winds
+S.E. Clouds of upper stratum N.W.
+
+_29th August, 1868._--Kaskas began to-day hot and sultry. This will
+continue till rains fall. Rumours of wars perpetual and near; and one
+circumstantial account of an attack made by the Bause. That again
+contradicted. _(31st August, 1868.)_ Rain began here this evening,
+quite remarkable and exceptional, as it precedes the rains generally
+off the watershed by two months at least: it was a thunder shower,
+and it and another on the evening of the second were quite partial.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[As we shall see, he takes advantage of his late experience to work
+out an elaborate treatise on the climate of this region, which is
+exceedingly important, bearing, as it does, upon the question of the
+periodical floods on the rivers which drain the enormous cistern-lakes
+of Central Africa.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The notion of a rainy zone, in which the clouds deposit their
+treasures in perpetual showers, has received no confirmation from my
+observations. In 1866-7, the rainfall was 42 inches. In 1867-8, it
+amounted to 53 inches: this is nearly the same as falls in the same
+latitudes on the West Coast. In both years the rains ceased entirely
+in May, and with the exception of two partial thunder showers on the
+middle of the watershed, no rain fell till the middle and end of
+October, and then, even in November, it was partial, and limited to
+small patches of country; but scarcely a day passed between October
+and May without a good deal of thunder. When the thunder began to roll
+or rumble, that was taken by the natives as an indication of the near
+cessation of the rains. The middle of the watershed is the most humid
+part: one sees the great humidity of its climate at once in the trees,
+old and young, being thickly covered with lichens; some flat, on the
+trunks and branches; others long and thready, like the beards of old
+men waving in the wind. Large orchids on the trees in company with the
+profusion of lichens are seen nowhere else, except in the mangrove
+swamps of the sea-coast.
+
+I cannot account for the great humidity of the watershed as compared
+with the rest of the country, but by the prevailing winds and the
+rains being from the south-east, and thus from the Indian Ocean: with
+this wind generally on the surface one can observe an upper strong
+wind from the north-west, that is, from the low humid West Coast and
+Atlantic Ocean. The double strata of winds can easily be observed when
+there are two sheets of clouds, or when burning grass over scores of
+square miles sends up smoke sufficiently high to be caught by the
+upper or north-west wind. These winds probably meet during the heavy
+rains: now in August they overlap each other. The probability arises
+from all continued rains within the tropics coming in the opposite
+direction from the prevailing wind of the year. Partial rains are
+usually from the south-east.
+
+The direction of the prevailing wind of this region is well marked on
+the islands in Lake Bangweolo: the trunks are bent away from the
+south-east, and the branches on that side are stunted or killed; while
+those on the north-west run out straight and make the trees appear
+lopsided. The same bend away from the south-east is seen on all
+exposed situations, as in the trees covering the brow of a hill. At
+Kizinga, which is higher than the Lake, the trees are covered with
+lichens, chiefly on the south-east sides, and on the upper surfaces of
+branches, running away horizontally to or from the north-west. Plants
+and trees, which elsewhere in Africa grow only on the banks of streams
+and other damp localities, are seen flourishing all over the country:
+the very rocks are covered with lichens, and their crevices with
+ferns.
+
+But that which demonstrates the humidity of the climate most
+strikingly is the number of earthen sponges or oozes met with. In
+going to Bangweolo from Kizinga, I crossed twenty-nine of these
+reservoirs in thirty miles of latitude, on a south-east course: this
+may give about one sponge for every two miles. The word "Bog" conveys
+much of the idea of these earthen sponges; but it is inseparably
+connected in our minds with peat, and these contain not a particle of
+peat, they consist of black porous earth, covered with a hard wiry
+grass, and a few other damp-loving plants. In many places the sponges
+hold large quantities of the oxide of iron, from the big patches of
+brown haematite that crop out everywhere, and streams of this oxide,
+as thick as treacle, are seen moving slowly along in the sponge-like
+small red glaciers. When one treads on the black earth of the sponge,
+though little or no water appears on the surface, it is frequently
+squirted up the limbs, and gives the idea of a sponge. In the paths
+that cross them, the earth readily becomes soft mud, but sinks rapidly
+to the bottom again, as if of great specific gravity: the water in
+them is always circulating and oozing. The places where the sponges
+are met with are slightly depressed valleys without trees or bushes,
+in a forest country where the grass being only a foot or fifteen
+inches high, and thickly planted, often looks like a beautiful glade
+in a gentleman's park in England. They are from a quarter of a mile to
+a mile broad, and from two to ten or more miles long. The water of the
+heavy rains soaks into the level forest lands: one never sees runnels
+leading it off, unless occasionally a footpath is turned to that use.
+The water, descending about eight feet, comes to a stratum of yellow
+sand, beneath which there is another stratum of fine white sand, which
+at its bottom cakes, so as to hold the water from sinking further.
+
+It is exactly the same as we found in the Kalahari Desert, in digging
+sucking places for water for our oxen. The water, both here and there,
+is guided by the fine sand stratum into the nearest valley, and here
+it oozes forth on all sides through the thick mantle of black porous
+earth, which forms the sponge. There, in the desert, it appears to
+damp the surface sands in certain valleys, and the Bushmen, by a
+peculiar process, suck out a supply. When we had dug down to the caked
+sand there years ago, the people begged us not to dig further, as the
+water would all run away; and we desisted, because we saw that the
+fluid poured in from the fine sand all round the well, but none came
+from the bottom or cake. Two stupid Englishmen afterwards broke
+through the cake in spite of the entreaties of the natives, and the
+well and the whole valley dried up hopelessly. Here the water, oozing
+forth from the surface of the sponge mantle, collects in the centre of
+the slightly depressed valley which it occupies, and near the head of
+the depression forms a sluggish stream; but further down, as it meets
+with more slope, it works out for itself a deeper channel, with
+perpendicular banks, with, say, a hundred or more yards of sponge on
+each side, constantly oozing forth fresh supplies to augment its size.
+When it reaches rocky ground it is a perennial burn, with many aquatic
+plants growing in its bottom. One peculiarity would strike anyone: the
+water never becomes discoloured or muddy. I have seen only one stream
+muddied in flood, the Choma, flowing through an alluvial plain in
+Lopere. Another peculiarity is very remarkable; it is, that after the
+rains have entirely ceased, these burns have their largest flow, and
+cause inundations. It looks as if towards the end of the rainy season
+the sponges were lifted up by the water off their beds, and the pores
+and holes, being enlarged, are all employed to give off fluid. The
+waters of inundation run away. When the sponges are lifted up by
+superabundance of water, all the pores therein are opened: as the
+earthen mantle subsides again, the pores act like natural valves, and
+are partially closed, and by the weight of earth above them, the water
+is thus prevented from running away altogether; time also being
+required to wet all the sand through which the rains soak, the great
+supply may only find its way to the sponge a month or so after the
+great rains have fallen.
+
+I travelled in Lunda, when the sponges were all supersaturated. The
+grassy sward was so lifted up that it was separated into patches or
+tufts, and if the foot missed the row of tufts of this wiry grass
+which formed the native path, down one plumped up to the thigh in
+slush. At that time we could cross the sponge only by the native
+paths, and the central burn only where they had placed bridges:
+elsewhere they were impassable, as they poured off the waters of
+inundation: our oxen were generally bogged--all four legs went down up
+to the body at once. When they saw the clear sandy bottom of the
+central burn they readily went in, but usually plunged right over
+head, leaving their tail up in the air to show the nervous shock they
+had sustained.
+
+These sponges are a serious matter in travelling. I crossed the
+twenty-nine already mentioned at the end of the fourth month of the
+dry season, and the central burns seemed then to have suffered no
+diminution: they were then from calf to waist deep, and required from
+fifteen to forty minutes in crossing; they had many deep holes in the
+paths, and when one plumps therein every muscle in the frame receives
+a painful jerk. When past the stream, and apparently on partially dry
+ground, one may jog in a foot or more, and receive a squirt of black
+mud up the thighs: it is only when you reach the trees and are off the
+sour land that you feel secure from mud and leeches. As one has to
+strip the lower part of the person in order to ford them, I found that
+often four were as many as we could cross in a day. Looking up these
+sponges a bird's-eye view would closely resemble the lichen-like
+vegetation of frost on window panes; or that vegetation in
+Canada-balsam which mad philosophical instrument makers _will_ put
+between the lenses of the object-glasses of our telescopes. The flat,
+or nearly flat, tops of the subtending and transverse ridges of this
+central country give rise to a great many: I crossed twenty-nine, a
+few of the feeders of Bangweolo, in thirty miles of latitude in one
+direction. Burns are literally innumerable: rising on the ridges, or
+as I formerly termed them mounds, they are undoubtedly the primary or
+ultimate sources of the Zambezi, Congo, and Nile: by their union are
+formed streams of from thirty to eighty or 100 yards broad, and always
+deep enough to require either canoes or bridges. These I propose to
+call the secondary sources, and as in the case of the Nile they are
+drawn off by three lines of drainage, they become the head waters (the
+_caput_ Nili) of the river of Egypt.
+
+Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has watched over and
+enabled me to discover what I have done. There is still much to do,
+and if health and protection be granted I shall make a complete thing
+of it.
+
+[Then he adds in a note a little further on:--]
+
+But few of the sponges on the watershed ever dry; elsewhere many do;
+the cracks in their surface are from 15 to 18 inches deep, with lips
+from 2 to 3 inches apart. Crabs and other animals in clearing out
+their runs reveal what I verified by actually digging wells at Kizinga
+and in Kabuire, and also observed in the ditches 15 feet deep dug by
+the natives round many of their stockades, that the sponge rests on a
+stratum of fine white washed sand. These cracks afford a good idea of
+the effect of the rains: the partial thunder-showers of October,
+November, December, and even January, produce no effect on them; it is
+only when the sun begins to return from his greatest southern
+declination that the cracks close their large lips. The whole sponge
+is borne up, and covers an enormous mass of water, oozing forth in
+March and April forming the inundations. These floods in the Congo,
+Zambesi, and Nile require different times to reach the sea. The bulk
+of the Zambesi is further augmented by the greater rains finding many
+pools in the beds of its feeders filled in February, as soon as the
+sun comes north.
+
+_Mem._--In apparent contradiction of the foregoing, so far as touches
+the sources of the Zambesi, Syde bin Habib informed me a few days ago
+that he visited the sources of the Liambai and of the Lufira. Each
+comes out of a fountain; the Lufira one is called Changozi, and is
+small, and in a wood of large trees S.W. of Katanga; the fountain of
+the Liambai is so large that one cannot call to a person on the other
+side, and he appears also very small there--the two fountains are just
+five hours distant from each other. He is well acquainted with the
+Liambai (Leeambye), where I first met him. Lunga, another river, comes
+out of nearly the same spot which goes into the Leunge, Kafue (?).
+Lufira is less than Kalongosi up there; that is less than 80 or 200
+yards, and it has deep waterfalls in it. The Kone range comes down
+north, nearly to Mpmeto's. Mkana is the chief of the stone houses in
+the Baloba, and he may be reached by three days of hard travelling
+from Mpweto's; Lufira is then one long day west. As Muabo refuses to
+show me his "mita," "miengelo," or "mpamankanana" as they are called,
+I must try and get to those of the Baloba of Mkana.
+
+Senegal swallows pair in the beginning of December.
+
+
+_Note_.--Inundation.
+
+The inundation I have explained in the note on the climate as owing to
+the sponges being supersaturated in the greater rains, when the sun
+returns from his greatest southern declination, the pores are then all
+enlarged, and the water of inundation flows in great volume even after
+the rains have entirely ceased. Something has probably to be learned
+from the rainfall at or beyond the equator, as the sun pursues his way
+north beyond my beat, but the process I have named accounts
+undoubtedly for the inundations of the Congo and Zambesi. The most
+acute of the ancients ascribed the inundation with Strabo to summer
+rains in the south; others to snows melting on the Mountains of the
+Moon; others to the northern wind--the Etesian breezes blowing
+directly against the mouth of the river and its current: others, with
+less reason, ascribed the inundation to its having its source in the
+ocean: Herodotus and Pliny to evaporation following the course of the
+sun.
+
+_1st September, 1868._--Two men come from Casembe--I am reported
+killed. The miningo-tree distils water, which falls in large drops.
+The Luapula seen when the smoke clears off. Fifty of Syde bin Omar's
+people died of small-pox in Usafa. _Mem._ Vaccine virus. We leave on
+the 25th, east bank of Moisi River, and cross the Luongo on the 28th,
+the Lofubu on the 1st October, and the Kalongosi on the 7th.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been unable to find opportunity to make
+daily entries at this period. All was turmoil and panic, and his life
+appears to have been in imminent danger. Briefly we see that on his
+way back from the Lake he found that his Arab associates of the last
+few months had taken up Casembe's cause against the devastating hordes
+of Mazitu, who had swept down on these parts, and had repulsed them.
+But now a fresh complication arose! Casembe and Chikumbi became
+alarmed lest the Arabs, feeling their own power, should turn upon them
+and possess the whole country, so they joined forces and stormed
+Kombokombo, one of the leading Arabs, and with what success we shall
+see. It is a fair specimen of the unaccountable complications which
+dog the steps of the traveller, where war is afoot, and render life a
+misery. He writes as follows on the 5th October:--]
+
+I was detained in the Imbozhwa country much longer than I relished.
+The inroad of the Mazitu, of which Casembe had just heard when we
+reached the Mofwe, was the first cause of delay: he had at once sent
+off men to verify the report, and requested me to remain till his
+messengers should return. This foray produced a state of lawlessness
+in the country, which was the main reason of our further detention.
+
+The Imbozhwa fled before the marauders, and the Banyamwezi or
+Garaganza, who had come in numbers to trade in copper, took on
+themselves the duty of expelling the invaders, and this, by means of
+their muskets, they did effectually, then, building stockades they
+excited the jealousy of the Imbozhwa lords of the soil who, instead of
+feeling grateful, hated the new power thus sprung up among them! They
+had suffered severely from the sharp dealing of the strangers already,
+and Chikumbi made a determined assault on the stockade of Kombokombo
+in vain.
+
+Confusion prevailed all over the country. Some Banyamwezi assumed the
+offensive against the Bauesi, who resemble the Imbozhwa, but are
+further south, and captured and sold some prisoners: it was in this
+state of things that, as already mentioned, I was surrounded by a
+party of furious Imbozhwa. A crowd stood within fifteen or twenty
+yards with spears poised and arrows set in the bowstrings, and some
+took aim at me: they took us for plunderers, and some plants of
+ground-nuts thrown about gave colour to their idea. One good soul
+helped us away--a blessing be on him and his. Another chief man took
+us for Mazitu! In this state of confusion Cazembe heard that my party
+had been cut off: he called in Moenempanda and took the field in
+person, in order to punish the Banyamwezi, against whom he has an old
+grudge for killing a near relative of his family, selling Bauesi, and
+setting themselves up as a power in his country.
+
+The two Arab traders now in the country felt that they must unite
+their forces, and thereby effect a safe retreat. Chikumbi had kept
+twenty-eight tusks for Syde bin Omar safely; but the coming of Casembe
+might have put it out of his power to deliver up his trust in safety,
+for an army here is often quite lawless: each man takes to himself
+what he can. When united we marched from Kizinga on 23rd September
+together, built fences every night to protect ourselves and about 400
+Banyamwezi, who took the opportunity to get safely away. Kombokombo
+came away from his stockade, and also part of the way, but cut away by
+night across country to join the parties of his countrymen who still
+love to trade in Katanga copper. We were not molested, but came nearly
+north to the Kalongosi. Syde parted from us, and went away east to
+Mozamba, and thence to the coast.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[64] The allusion is to Mrs. Livingstone's grave.
+
+[65] At one season the long grass which covers the face of the country
+catches fire. For some three months the air is consequently filled
+with smoke.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. III. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinne. Notes on climate. Separation of
+    Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria
+    Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A
+    parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country.
+    Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular
+    custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's
+    Expedition. Christmas dinners.
+
+
+_11th October, 1868._--From Kizinga north the country is all covered
+with forest, and thrown up into ridges of hardened sandstone, capped
+occasionally with fine-grained clay schist. Trees often appear of
+large size and of a species closely resembling the gum-copal tree; on
+the heights masukos and rhododendrons are found, and when exposed they
+are bent away from the south-east. Animals, as buffaloes and
+elephants, are plentiful, but wild. Rivulets numerous, and running now
+as briskly as brooks do after much rain in England. All on the
+south-western side of Kalongosi are subjects of Casembe, that is
+Balunda, or Imbozhwa.
+
+It was gratifying to see the Banyamwezi carrying their sick in cots
+slung between two men: in the course of time they tired of this, and
+one man, who was carried several days, remained with Chuma. We crossed
+the Luongo far above where we first became acquainted with it, and
+near its source in Urungu or Usungu Hills, then the Lobubu, a goodly
+stream thirty yards broad and rapid with fine falls above our ford,
+which goes into Kalongosi.
+
+_6th October, 1868._--Cross the Papusi, and a mile beyond the Luena of
+forty yards and knee deep; here we were met by about 400 of Kabanda's
+men, as if they were come to dispute our passage at the ford: I went
+over; all were civil; but had we shown any weakness they would no
+doubt have taken advantage of it.
+
+_7th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi, flowing over five
+cataracts made by five islets in a place called Kabwerume. Near the
+Mebamba a goodly rivulet joins it.
+
+_12th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi at the ford named
+Mosolo: by pacing I found it to be 240 yards broad, and thigh deep at
+the end of the dry season, it ran so strongly that it was with
+difficulty I could keep my feet. Here 500 at least of Nsama's people
+stood on the opposite shore to know what we wanted. Two fathoms of
+calico were sent over, and then I and thirty guns went over to protect
+the people in the ford: as we approached they retired. I went to them,
+and told them that I had been to Nsama's, and he gave me a goat and
+food, and we were good friends: some had seen me there, and they now
+crowded to look till the Arabs thought it unsafe for me to be among
+them: if I had come with bared skin they would have fled. All became
+friendly: an elephant was killed, and we remained two days buying
+food. We passed down between the ranges of hills on the east of Moero,
+the path we followed when we first visited Casembe.
+
+_20th and 21st October, 1868._--From the Luao I went over to the chief
+village of Muabo, and begged him to show me the excavations in his
+country: he declined, by saying that I came from a crowd of people,
+and must go to Kabwabwata, and wait awhile there, meanwhile he would
+think what he should do, whether to refuse or invite me to come. He
+evidently does not wish me to see his strongholds. All his people
+could go into them, though over ten thousand: they are all abundantly
+supplied with water, and they form the storehouses for grain.
+
+_22nd October, 1868._--We came to Kabwabwata, and I hope I may find a
+way to other underground houses. It is probable that they are not the
+workmanship of the ancestors of the present occupants, for they
+ascribe their formation invariably to the Deity, Mulungu or Reza: if
+their forefathers had made them, some tradition would have existed of
+them.
+
+_23rd October, 1868._--Syde bin Habib came over from Mpweto's; he
+reports Lualaba and Lufira flowing into the Lake of Kinkonza.
+Lungabale is paramount chief of Rua.
+
+Mparahala horns measured three feet long and three inches in diameter
+at the base: this is the yellow kualata of Makololo, bastard gemsbuck
+of the Dutch.
+
+_27th, 29th, and 30th October, 1868._--Salem bin Habib was killed by
+the people in Rua: he had put up a tent and they attacked it in the
+night, and stabbed him through it. Syde bin Habib waged a war of
+vengeance all through Rua after this for the murder of his brother:
+Sef's raid may have led the people to the murder.
+
+_29th October, 1868._--In coming north in September and October, the
+last months of the dry season, I crossed many burns flowing quite in
+the manner of our brooks at home, after a great deal of rain; here,
+however, the water was clear, and the banks not abraded in the least.
+Some rivulets had a tinge of white in them, as if of felspar in
+disintegrating granite; some nearly stagnant burns had as if milk and
+water in them, and some red oxide of iron.
+
+Where leeches occur they need no coaxing to bite, but fly at the white
+skin like furies, and refuse to let go: with the fingers benumbed,
+though the water is only 60 deg., one may twist them round the finger and
+tug, but they slip through. I saw the natives detaching them with a
+smart slap of the palm, and found it quite effectual.
+
+Swifts, Senegal swallows, and common dark-bellied swallows appeared at
+Kizinga in the beginning of October: other birds, as drongo shrikes, a
+bird with a reddish bill, but otherwise like a grey linnet, keep in
+flocks yet. _(5th December.)_ They pair now. The kite came sooner than
+the swallows; I saw the first at Bangweolo on the 20th July, 1868.
+
+_1st November, 1868._--At Kabwabwata; we are waiting till Syde comes
+up that we may help him. He has an enormous number of tusks and bars
+of copper, sufficient it seems for all his people to take forward,
+going and returning three times over. He has large canoes on the Lake,
+and will help us in return.
+
+_2nd November, 1868._--News came yesterday from Mpweto's that
+twenty-one slaves had run away from Syde bin Habib at one time: they
+were Rua people, and out of the chains, as they were considered safe
+when fairly over the Lualaba, but they showed their love of liberty on
+the first opportunity. Mpweto is suspected to have harboured them, or
+helped them over the river; this will probably lead to Syde attacking
+him, as he has done to so many chiefs in Rua. In this case Mpweto will
+have no sympathy; he is so wanting in the spirit of friendliness to
+others.
+
+_3rd November, 1868._--Sent off men to hasten Syde onwards. We start
+in two or three days.
+
+The oldest map known to be in existence is the map of the Ethiopian
+Goldmines, dating from the time of Sethos I., the father of Rameses
+II., long enough before the time of the bronze tablet of Aristagoras,
+on which was inscribed the circuit of the whole earth, and all the sea
+and all rivers. (Tylor, p. 90, quoted from Birch's _Archaeologia_,
+vol. xxxiv. p. 382.) Sesostris was the first to distribute his maps.
+
+_8th November, 1868._--Syde bin Habib is said to have amassed 150
+frasilahs of ivory = 5250 lbs., and 300 frasilahs of copper = 10,500
+lbs. With one hundred carriers he requires to make four relays, or
+otherwise make the journey four times over at every stage. Twenty-one
+of his slaves ran away in one night, and only four were caught again:
+they were not all bought, nor was the copper and ivory come at by fair
+means; the murder of his brother was a good excuse for plunder,
+murder, and capture. Mpweto is suspected of harbouring them as living
+on the banks of the Lualaba, for they could not get over without
+assistance from his canoes and people. Mpweto said, "Remove from me,
+and we shall see if they come this way." They are not willing to
+deliver fugitives up. Syde senL for Elmas, the only thing of the
+Mullam or clerical order here, probably to ask if the Koran authorizes
+him to attack Mpweto. Mullam will reply, "Yes, certainly. If Mpweto
+won't restore your slaves, take what you can by force." Syde's
+bloodshed is now pretty large, and he is becoming afraid for his own
+life; if he ceases not, he will himself be caught some day.
+
+Ill of fever two days. Better and thankful.
+
+[Whilst waiting to start for Ujiji, Livingstone was intently occupied
+on the great problem of the Nile and the important part he had taken
+so recently in solving it: he writes at this date as follows:--]
+
+   The discovery of the sources of the Nile is somewhat akin in
+   importance to the discovery of the North-West Passage, which
+   called forth, though in a minor degree, the energy, the
+   perseverance, and the pluck of Englishmen, and anything that does
+   that is beneficial to the nation and to its posterity. The
+   discovery of the sources of the Nile possesses, moreover, an
+   element of interest which the North-West Passage never had. The
+   great men of antiquity have recorded their ardent desires to know
+   the fountains of what Homer called "_Egypt's heaven-descended
+   spring._" Sesostris, the first who in camp with his army made and
+   distributed maps, not to Egyptians only, but to the Scythians,
+   naturally wished to know the springs, says Eustathius, of the
+   river on whose banks he flourished. Alexander the Great, who
+   founded a celebrated city at this river's-mouth, looked up the
+   stream with the same desire, and so did the Caesars. The great
+   Julius Caesar is made by Lucan to say that he would give up the
+   civil war if he might but see the fountains of this far-famed
+   river. Nero Caesar sent two centurions to examine the "_Caput
+   Nili_." They reported that they saw the river rushing with great
+   force from two rocks, and beyond that it was lost in immense
+   marshes. This was probably "native information," concerning the
+   cataracts of the Nile and a long space above them, which had
+   already been enlarged by others into two hills with sharp conical
+   tops called Crophi and Mophi--midway between which lay the
+   fountains of the Nile--fountains which it was impossible to
+   fathom, and which gave forth half their water to Ethiopia in the
+   south, and the other half to Egypt in the north: that which these
+   men failed to find, and that which many great minds in ancient
+   times longed to know, has in this late age been brought to light
+   by the patient toil and laborious perseverance of Englishmen.[66]
+
+   In laying a contribution to this discovery at the feet of his
+   countrymen, the writer desires to give all the honour to his
+   predecessors which they deserve. The work of Speke and Grant is
+   deserving of the highest commendation, inasmuch as they opened up
+   an immense tract of previously unexplored country, in the firm
+   belief they were bringing to light the head of the Nile. No one
+   can appreciate the difficulties of their feat unless he has gone
+   into new country. In association with Captain Burton, Speke came
+   much nearer to the "coy fountains," than at the Victoria Nyanza,
+   but they all turned their backs on them. Mr. Baker showed courage
+   and perseverance worthy of an Englishman in following out the
+   hints given by Speke and Grant. But none rises higher in my
+   estimation than the Dutch lady Miss Tinne, who, after the
+   severest domestic afflictions, nobly persevered in the teeth of
+   every difficulty, and only turned away from the object of her
+   expedition, after being assured by Speke and Grant that they had
+   already discovered in Victoria Nyanza the sources she sought. Had
+   they not given their own mistaken views, the wise foresight by
+   which she provided a steamer, would inevitably have led her to
+   pull up, and by canoes to reach Lake Bangweolo's sources full
+   five hundred miles south of the most southerly part of Victoria
+   Nyanza. She evidently possesses some of the indomitable pluck of
+   Van Tromp, whose tomb every Englishman who goes to Holland must
+   see.[67] Her doctor was made a baron--were she not a Dutch lady
+   already we think she ought to be made a duchess.
+
+   By way of contrast with what, if I live through it, I shall have
+   to give, I may note some of the most prominent ideas entertained
+   of this world-renowned river. Ptolemy, a geographer who lived in
+   the second century, and was not a king of Egypt, with the most
+   ancient maps made the Nile rise from the "Montes Lunae," between
+   ten and twelve south lat., by six several streams which flowed
+   north into two Lakes, situated east and west of each other.
+   These streams flowed about west of his river Rhapta, or Raptus,
+   which is probably our Rovuma or Louma. This was very near the
+   truth, but the Mountains of the Moon cannot be identified with
+   the Lokinga, or mountains of Bisa, from which many of the springs
+   do actually arise. Unless, indeed, we are nearer to the great
+   alterations in climate which have taken place, as we are supposed
+   to be nearer the epoch of the mammoth, aurochs, and others. Snow
+   never lay in these latitudes, on altitudes of 6000 feet above the
+   sea.
+
+   Some of the ancients supposed the river to have its source in the
+   ocean. This was like the answer we received long ago from the
+   natives on the Liambai or Upper Zambesi when inquiring for its
+   source. "It rises in Leoatle, the white man's sea, or Metsehula."
+   The second name means the "_grazing water_," from the idea of the
+   tides coming in to graze; as to the freshness of the Liambai
+   waters, they could offer no explanation.
+
+   Some again thought that the Nile rose in Western Africa, and
+   after flowing eastwards across the Continent, turned northwards
+   to Egypt; others still thought that it rose in India! and others
+   again, from vague reports collected from their slaves, made it
+   and several other rivers rise but of a great inland sea.
+   _Achelunda_ was said to be the name of this Lake, and in the
+   language of Angola, it meant the "sea." It means only "_of_" or
+   "_belonging to Lunda_," a country. It might have been a sea that
+   was spoken of on a whole, or anything. "_Nyassi, or the sea_,"
+   was another name and another blunder. "Nyassi" means long grass,
+   and nothing else. Nyanza contracted into Nyassa, means lake,
+   marsh, any piece of water, or even the dry bed of a lake. The _N_
+   and _y_ are joined in the mouth, and never pronounced separately.
+   The "Naianza"!--it would be nearer the mark to say the Nancy!
+
+   Of all theoretical discoverers, the man who ran in 200 miles of
+   Lake and placed them on a height of some 4000 feet at the
+   north-west end of Lake Nyassa, deserves the highest place. Dr.
+   Beke, in his guess, came nearer the sources than most others, but
+   after all he pointed out where they would not be found. Old Nile
+   played the theorists a pretty prank by having his springs 500
+   miles south of them all! I call mine a contribution, because it
+   is just a hundred years (1769) since Bruce, a greater traveller
+   than any of us, visited Abyssinia, and having discovered the
+   sources of the Blue Nile, he thought that he had then solved the
+   ancient problem. Am I to be cut out by some one discovering
+   southern fountains of the river of Egypt, of which I have now no
+   conception?
+
+   David Livingstone.
+
+[The tiresome procrastination of Mohamad and his horde was not
+altogether an unmixed evil. With so many new discoveries in hand
+Livingstone had an opportunity for working out several problems, and
+instituting comparisons between the phenomena of Inner Africa and the
+well-marked changes which go on in other parts of the world. We find
+him at this time summing them up as follows:--]
+
+The subject of change of climate from alteration of level has not
+received the investigation it deserves. Mr. Darwin saw reason to
+believe that very great alterations of altitude, and of course of
+climate, had taken place in South America and the islands of the
+Pacific; the level of a country above the sea I believe he thought to
+be as variable as the winds. A very great alteration of altitude has
+also taken place in Africa; this is apparent on the sea-coast of
+Angola, and all through the centre of the country, where large rivers
+which once flowed southwards and westwards are no longer able to run
+in these directions: the general desiccation of the country, as seen
+in the beds of large rivers and of enormous lakes, tells the same
+tale. Portions of the east coast have sunk, others have risen, even in
+the Historic Period. The upper or northern end of the Red Sea has
+risen, so that the place of the passage of the children of Israel is
+now between forty and fifty miles from Suez, the modern head of the
+Gulf. This upheaval, and not the sand from the desert, caused the
+disuse of the ancient canal across the Isthmus: it took place since
+the Mohamadan conquest of Egypt. The women of the Jewish captivities
+were carried past the end of the Red Sea and along the Mediterranean
+in ox-waggons, where such cattle would now all perish for want of
+water and pasture; in fact, the route to Assyria would have proved
+more fatal to captives then than the middle passage has been to
+Africans since. It may be true that, _as the desert is now_, it could
+not have been traversed by the multitude under Moses--the German
+strictures put forth by Dr. Colenso, under the plea of the progress of
+science, assume that no alteration has taken place in either desert or
+climate--but a scientific examination of the subject would have
+ascertained what the country was then when it afforded pasture to
+"flocks and herds, and even very much cattle." We know that Eziongeber
+was, with its docks, on the seashore, with water in abundance for the
+ship-carpenters: it is now far from the head of the Elaic Gulf in a
+parched desert. Aden, when visited by the Portuguese Balthazar less
+than 300 years ago, was a perfect garden; but it is now a vast
+conglomeration of black volcanic rocks, with so little vegetation,
+that, on seeing flocks of goats driven out, I thought of the Irish
+cabman at an ascent slamming the door of his cab and whispering to his
+fare, "Whish, it's to desave the baste: he thinks that you are out
+walking." Gigantic tanks in great numbers and the ruins of aqueducts
+appear as relics of the past, where no rain now falls for three or
+more years at a time. They have all dried up by a change of climate,
+possibly similar and cotemporaneous with that which has dried up the
+Dead Sea.
+
+The journey of Ezra was undertaken after a fast at the River Ahava.
+With nearly 50,000 people he had only about 8000 beasts of burden. He
+was ashamed to ask a band of soldiers and horsemen for protection in
+the way. It took about four months to reach Jerusalem; this would give
+five and a half or six miles a day, as the crow flies, which is equal
+to twelve or fifteen miles of surface travelled over; this bespeaks a
+country capable of yielding both provisions and water, such as cannot
+now be found. Ezra would not have been ashamed to ask for camels to
+carry provisions and water had the country been as dry as it is now.
+The prophets, in telling all the woes and miseries of the captivities,
+never allude to suffering or perishing by thirst in the way, or being
+left to rot in the route as African slaves are now in a well-watered
+country. Had the route to Assyria been then as it is now, they could
+scarcely have avoided referring to the thirst of the way; but
+everything else is mentioned except that.
+
+Respecting this system of Lakes in the centre of Africa, it will
+possibly occur to some that Lake Nyassa may give a portion of its
+water off from its northern end to the Nile, but this would imply a
+Lake giving off a river at both ends; the country, too, on the
+north-north-west and north-east rises to from 4000 to 6000 feet above
+the sea, and there is not the smallest indication that Nyassa and
+Tanganyika were ever connected. Lake Liemba is the most southerly part
+of Tanganyika; its latitude is 8 deg. 46' south; the most northerly point
+of Lake Nyassa is probably 10 deg. 56'-8 deg. 46' = 2 deg. 10'. Longitude
+of Liemba 34 deg. 57'-31 deg. 57' = 3 deg. 00' = 180' of longitude. Of
+latitude 130' + 180' = 310', two-thirds of which is about 206', the
+distance between two Lakes; and no evidence of fissure, rent, or channel
+now appears on the highland between.
+
+Again, Liemba is 3000 feet above the sea. The altitude of Nyassa is
+1200/x800 feet. Tanganyika would thus go to Nyassa--down the Shire
+into the Zambesi and the sea, if a passage existed even below ground.
+
+The large Lake, said to exist to the north-west of Tanganyika might,
+however, send a branch to the Nile; but the land rises up into a high
+ridge east of this Lake.
+
+It is somewhat remarkable that the impression which intelligent
+Suaheli, who have gone into Karagwe, have received is, that the
+Kitangule flows from Tanganyika into Lake Ukerewe. One of Syde bin
+Omar's people put it to me very forcibly the other day by saying,
+"Kitangule is an arm of Tanganyika!" He had not followed it out; but
+that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika, should have in his lifetime
+seriously proposed to deepen the upper part of it, so as to allow
+canoes to pass from his place to Ujiji, is very strong evidence of the
+river being large on the Tanganyika side. We know it to be of good
+size, and requiring canoes on the Ukerewe side. Burton came to the
+very silly conclusion that when a native said a river ran one way, he
+meant that it flowed in the opposite direction. Ujiji, in Rumanyika's
+time, was the only mart for merchandise in the country. Garaganza or
+Galaganza has most trade and influence now. (_14th Sept., 1868._)
+
+Okara is the name by which Victoria Nyanza is known on the eastern
+side, and an arm of it, called Kavirondo, is about forty miles broad.
+Lake Baringo is a distinct body of water, some fifty miles broad, and
+giving off a river called Ngardabash, which flows eastwards into the
+Somauli country. Lake Naibash is more to the east than Kavirondo, and
+about fifty miles broad too: it gives off the River Kidete, which is
+supposed to flow into Lufu. It is south-east of Kavirondo; and
+Kilimanjaro can be seen from its shores; in the south-east Okara,
+Naibash and Baringo seem to have been run by Speke into one Lake.
+Okara, in the south, is full of large islands, and has but little
+water between them; that little is encumbered with aquatic vegetation
+called "Tikatika," on which, as in lakelet Gumadona, a man can walk.
+Waterlilies and duckweed are not the chief part of this floating mass.
+In the north Okara is large. Burukinegge land is the boundary between
+the people of Kavirondo and the Gallahs with camels and horses.
+
+_9th November, 1868._--Copied several Notes written at Kizinga and
+elsewhere, and at Kabwabwata resume Journal. Some slight showers have
+cooled the air a little: this is the hottest time of the year.
+
+_10th November, 1868._--A heavier shower this morning will have more
+of the same effect.
+
+_11th November, 1868._--Muabo visited this village, but refuses to
+show his underground houses.
+
+_13th November, 1868._--I was on the point of starting without Mohamad
+Bogharib, but he begged me not to go till he had settled some weighty
+matter about a wife he is to get at Ujiji from Mpamari; we must have
+the new moon, which will appear in three days, for lucky starting, and
+will leave Syde bin Habib at Chisabi's. Meanwhile two women slaves ran
+away, and Syde has got only five back of his twenty-one fugitives.
+Mullam was mild with his decisions, and returned here; he informed me
+that many of Syde's slaves, about forty, fled. Of those who cannot
+escape many die, evidently broken-hearted; they are captives, and not,
+as slaves often are, criminals sold for their guilt, hence the great
+mortality caused by being taken to the sea to be, as they believe,
+fatted and eaten. Poor things! Heaven help them!
+
+Ujiji is the pronunciation of the Banyamwezi; and they call the people
+Wayeiye, exactly as the same people styled themselves on the River
+Zougha, near Ngami.
+
+[It will be remembered that several of his men refused to go to Lake
+Bangweolo with him: they seem now to have thought better of it, and on
+his return are anxious to come back to their old master who, for his
+part, is evidently willing to overlook a good deal.]
+
+I have taken all the runaways back again; after trying the independent
+life they will behave better. Much of their ill conduct may be
+ascribed to seeing that after the flight of the Johanna men I was
+entirely dependent on them: more enlightened people often take
+advantage of men in similar circumstances; though I have seen pure
+Africans come out generously to aid one abandoned to their care. I
+have faults myself.
+
+_15th November, 1868._--The Arabs have some tradition of the Emir Musa
+coming as far south as the Jagga country. Some say he lived N.E. of
+Sunna, now Mteza; but it is so mixed up with fable and tales of the
+Genii (Mageni), that it cannot refer to the great Moses, concerning
+whose residence at Meroee and marriage of the king of Ethiopia's
+daughter there is also some vague tradition further north: the only
+thing of interest to me is the city of Meroee, which is lost, and may,
+if built by ancient Egyptians, still be found.
+
+The Africans all beckon with the hand, to call a person, in a
+different way from what Europeans do. The hand is held, as surgeons
+say, _prone_, or palm down, while we beckon with the hand held
+_supine_, or palm up: it is quite natural in them, for the idea in
+their mind is to lay the hand on the person and draw him towards them.
+If the person wished for is near, say forty yards off, the beckoner
+puts out his right hand on a level with his breast, and makes the
+motion of catching the other by shutting the fingers and drawing him
+to himself: if the person is further off, this motion is exaggerated
+by lifting up the right hand as high as he can; he brings it down with
+a sweep towards the ground, the hand being still held prone as before.
+In nodding assent they differ from us by lifting up the chin instead
+of bringing it down as we do. This lifting up the chin looks natural
+after a short usage therewith, and is perhaps purely conventional, not
+natural, as the other seems to be.
+
+_16th November, 1868._--I am tired out by waiting after finishing the
+Journal, and will go off to-morrow north. Simon killed a zebra after I
+had taken the above resolution, and this supply of meat makes delay
+bearable, for besides flesh, of which I had none, we can buy all kinds
+of grain and pulse for the next few days. The women of the adjacent
+villages crowd into this as soon as they hear of an animal killed, and
+sell all the produce of their plantations for meat.
+
+_17th November, 1868._--It is said that on the road to the Great Salt
+Lake in America the bones and skulls of animals lie scattered
+everywhere, yet travellers are often put to great straits for fuel:
+this, if true, is remarkable among a people so apt in turning
+everything to account as the Americans. When we first steamed up the
+River Shire our fuel ran out in the elephant marsh, where no trees
+exist, and none could be reached without passing through many miles on
+either side of impassable swamp, covered with reeds, and intersected
+everywhere with deep branches of the river. Coming to a spot where an
+elephant had been slaughtered, I at once took the bones on board, and
+these, with the bones of a second elephant, enabled us to steam
+briskly up to where wood abounded. The Scythians, according to
+Herodotus, used the bones[68] of the animal sacrificed to boil the
+flesh, the Guachos of South America do the same when they have no
+fuel: the ox thus boils himself.
+
+_18th November, 1868._--A pretty little woman ran away from her
+husband, and came to "Mpamari." Her husband brought three hoes, a
+checked cloth, and two strings of large neck beads to redeem her; but
+this old fellow wants her for himself, and by native law he can keep
+her as his slave-wife. Slave-owners make a bad neighbourhood, for the
+slaves, are always running away and the headmen are expected to
+restore the fugitives for a bit of cloth. An old woman of Mpmari fled
+three times; she was caught yesterday, and tied to a post for the
+young slaves to plague her. Her daughter burst into an agony of tears
+on seeing them tying her mother, and Mpamari ordered her to be tied to
+the mother's back for crying; I interceded for her, and she was let
+go. He said, "You don't care, though Sayed Majid loses his money." I
+replied, "Let the old woman go, she will be off again to-morrow." But
+they cannot bear to let a slave have freedom. I don't understand what
+effect his long prayers and prostrations towards the "Kibla" have on
+his own mind, they cannot affect the minds of his slaves favourably,
+nor do they mine, though I am as charitable as most people.
+
+_19th November, 1868._--I prepared to start to-day, but Mohamad
+Bogharib has been very kind, and indeed cooked meals for me from my
+arrival at Casembe's, 6th May last, till we came here, 22nd October;
+the food was coarse enough, but still it was food; and I did not like
+to refuse his genuine hospitality. He now begged of me not to go for
+three days, and then he would come along with me! Mpamari also
+entreated. I would not have minded him, but they have influence with
+the canoe-men on Tanganyika, and it is well not to get a bad name if
+possible.
+
+_20th November, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib purposed to attack two
+villages near to this, from an idea that the people there concealed
+his runaway slaves; by remaining I think that I have put a stop to
+this, as he did not like to pillage while I was in company: Mpamari
+also turned round towards peace, though he called all the riff-raff to
+muster, and caracoled among them like an old broken-winded horse. One
+man became so excited with yelling, that the others had to disarm
+him, and he then fell down as if in a fit; water poured on his head
+brought him to calmness. We go on the 22nd.
+
+_22nd November, 1868._--This evening the Imbozhwa, or Babemba, came at
+dusk, and killed a Wanyamwezi woman on one side of the village, and a
+woman and child on the other side of it. I took this to be the result
+of the warlike demonstration mentioned above; but one of Mohamad
+Bogharib's people, named Bin Juma, had gone to a village on the north
+of this and seized two women and two girls, in lieu of four slaves who
+had run away. The headman, resenting this, shot an arrow into one of
+Bin Junta's party, and Bin Juma shot a woman with his gun.
+
+This, it turned out, had roused the whole country, and next morning we
+were assailed by a crowd of Imbozhwa on three sides: we had no
+stockade, but the men built one as fast as the enemy allowed, cutting
+down trees and carrying them to the line of defence, while others kept
+the assailants at bay with their guns. Had it not been for the crowd
+of Banyamwezi which we have, who shot vigorously with their arrows,
+and occasionally chased the Imbozhwa, we should have been routed. I
+did not go near the fighting, but remained in my house to defend my
+luggage if necessary. The women went up and down the village with
+sieves, as if winnowing, and singing songs, and lullilooing, to
+encourage their husbands and friends who were fighting, each had a
+branch of the Ficus indica in her hand, which she waved, I suppose as
+a charm. About ten of the Imbozhwa are said to have been killed, but
+dead and wounded were at once carried off by their countrymen. They
+continued the assault from early dawn till 1 P.M., and showed great
+bravery, but they wounded only two with their arrows. Their care to
+secure the wounded was admirable: two or three at once seized the
+fallen man, and ran off with him, though pursued by a great crowd of
+Banyamwezi with spears, and fired at by the Suaheli--Victoria-cross
+fellows truly many of them were! Those who had a bunch of animals'
+tails, with medicine, tied to their waists, came sidling and ambling
+up to near the unfinished stockade, and shot their arrows high up into
+the air, to fall among the Wanyamwezi, then picked up any arrows on
+the field, ran back, and returned again. They thought that by the
+ambling gait they avoided the balls, and when these whistled past them
+they put down their heads, as if to allow them to pass over; they had
+never encountered guns before. We did not then know it, but Muabo,
+Phuta, Ngurue, Sandaruko, and Chapi, were the assailants, for we found
+it out by the losses each of these five chiefs sustained.
+
+It was quite evident to me that the Suaheli Arabs were quite taken
+aback by the attitude of the natives; they expected them to flee as
+soon as they heard a gun fired in anger, but instead of this we were
+very nearly being cut off, and should have been but for our Banyamwezi
+allies. It is fortunate that the attacking party had no success in
+trying to get Mpweto and Karembwe to join them against us, or it would
+have been more serious still.
+
+_24th November, 1868._--The Imbozhwa, or Babemba rather, came early
+this morning, and called on Mohamad to come out of his stockade if he
+were a man who could fight, but the fence is now finished, and no one
+seems willing to obey the taunting call: I have nothing to do with it,
+but feel thankful that I was detained, and did not, with my few
+attendants, fall into the hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. They
+kept up the attack to-day, and some went out to them, fighting till
+noon: when a man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi
+brought his head and put it on a pole on the stockade--six heads were
+thus placed. A fine young man was caught and brought in by the
+Wanyamwezi, one stabbed him behind, another cut his forehead with an
+axe, I called in vain to them not to kill him. As a last appeal, he
+said to the crowd that surrounded him, "Don't kill me, and I shall
+take you to where the women are." "You lie," said his enemies; "you
+intend to take us where we may be shot by your friends;" and they
+killed him. It was horrible: I protested loudly against any repetition
+of this wickedness, and the more sensible agreed that prisoners ought
+not to be killed, but the Banyamwezi are incensed against the Babemba
+because of the women killed on the 22nd.
+
+_25th November, 1868._--The Babemba kept off on the third day, and the
+Arabs are thinking it will be a good thing if we get out of the
+country unscathed. Men were sent off on the night of the 23rd to Syde
+bin Habib for powder and help. Mohamad Bogharib is now unwilling to
+take the onus of the war: he blames Mpamari, and Mpamari blames him; I
+told Mohamad that the war was undoubtedly his work, inasmuch as Bin
+Juma is his man, and he approved of his seizing the women.
+
+He does not like this, but it is true; he would not have entered a
+village of Casembe or Moamba or Chikumbi as he did Chapi's man's
+village: the people here are simply men of more metal than he
+imagined, and his folly in beginning a war in which, if possible, his
+slaves will slip through his hands is apparent to all, even to
+himself. Syde sent four barrels of gunpowder and ten men, who arrived
+during last night.
+
+_27th November, 1868._--Two of Muabo's men came over to bring on a
+parley; one told us that he had been on the south side of the village
+before, and heard one man say to another "mo pige" (shoot him).
+Mpamari gave them a long oration in exculpation, but it was only the
+same everlasting, story of fugitive slaves. The slave-traders cannot
+prevent them from escaping, and impudently think that the country
+people ought to catch them, and thus be their humble servants, and
+also the persecutors of their own countrymen! If they cannot keep
+them, why buy them--why put their money into a bag with holes?
+
+It is exactly what took place in America--slave-owners are bad
+neighbours everywhere. Canada was threatened, England browbeaten, and
+the Northerners all but kicked on the same score, and all as if
+property in slaves had privileges which no other goods have. To hear
+the Arabs say of the slaves after they are fled, "Oh, they are bad,
+bad, very bad!" (and they entreated me too to free them from the
+yoke), is, as the young ladies say, "too absurd." The chiefs also who
+do not apprehend fugitives, they too are "bad."
+
+I proposed to Mohamad Bogharib to send back the women seized by Bin
+Juma, to show the Babemba that he disapproved of the act and was
+willing to make peace, but this was too humiliating; I added that
+their price as slaves was four barrels of gunpowder or 160 dollars,
+while slaves lawfully bought would have cost him only eight or ten
+yards of calico each. At the conclusion of Mpamari's speech the four
+barrels of gunpowder were exhibited, and so was the Koran, to impress
+them (Muabo's people) with an idea of their great power.
+
+_28th and 29th November, 1868._--It is proposed to go and force our
+way if we can to the north, but all feel that that would be a fine
+opportunity for the slaves to escape, and they would not be loth to
+embrace it; this makes it a serious matter, and the Koran is consulted
+at hours which are auspicious.
+
+_30th November, 1868._--Messengers sent to Muabo to ask a path, or in
+plain words protection from him; Mpamari protests his innocence of the
+whole affair.
+
+_1st December, 1868._--Muabo's people over again; would fain send them
+to make peace with Chapi!
+
+_2nd December, 1868._--The detention is excessively vexatious to me.
+Muabo sent three slaves as offers of peace--a fine self-imposed, but
+he is on our south side, and we wish to go north.
+
+_3rd December, 1868._--A party went to-day to clear the way to the
+north, but were warmly received by Babemba with arrows; they came back
+with one woman captured, and they say that they killed one man: one of
+themselves is wounded, and many others in danger: others who went east
+were shot at, and wounded too.
+
+_4th December, 1868._--A party went east, and were fain to flee from
+the Babemba, the same thing occurred on our west, and to-day _(5th)_
+all were called to strengthen the stockade for fear that the enemy may
+enter uninvited. The slaves would certainly flee, and small blame to
+them though they did. Mpamari proposed to go off north by night, but
+his people objected, as even a child crying would arouse the Babemba,
+and reveal the flight, so finally he sent off to ask Syde what he
+ought to do, whether to retire by day or by night; probably entreating
+Syde to come and protect him.
+
+A sort of idol is found in every village in this part, it is of wood,
+and represents the features, markings and fashion of the hair of the
+inhabitants: some have little huts built for them--others are in
+common houses. The Babemba call them _Nkisi_ ("Sancan" of the Arabs):
+the people of Rua name one _Kalubi_; the plural, _Tulubi_; and they
+present pombe, flour, bhang, tobacco, and light a fire for them to
+smoke by. They represent the departed father or mother, and it is
+supposed that they are pleased with the offerings made to their
+representatives, but all deny that they pray to them. Casembe has very
+many of these Nkisi; one with long hair, and named _Motombo_, is
+carried in front when he takes the field; names of dead chiefs are
+sometimes given to them. I have not met with anyone intelligent enough
+to explain if prayers are ever made to anyone; the Arabs who know
+their language, say they have no prayers, and think that at death
+there is an end of the whole man, but other things lead me to believe
+this is erroneous. Slaves laugh at their countrymen, in imitation of
+their masters, and will not reveal their real thoughts: one said that
+they believed in two Superior Beings--Reza above, who kills people,
+and Reza below, who carries them away after death.
+
+_6th December, 1868._--Ten of Syde bin Habib's people came over,
+bringing a letter, the contents of which neither Mpamari nor Mohamad
+cares to reveal. Some think, with great probability, that he asks,
+"Why did you begin a war if you wanted to leave so soon? Did you not
+know that the country people would take advantage of your march,
+encumbered as you will be by women and slaves?" Mohamad Bogharib
+called me to ask what advice I could give him, as all his own advice,
+and devices too, had been lost or were useless, and he did not know
+what to do. The Banyamwezi threatened to go off by night and leave
+him, as they are incensed against the Babemba, and offended because
+the Arabs do not aid them in wreaking their vengeance upon them.
+
+I took care not to give any advice, but said, if I had been or was in
+his place, I would have sent or would send back Bin Juma's captives,
+to show that I disapproved of his act--the first in the war--and was
+willing to make peace with Chapi. He said that he did not know that
+Bin Juma would capture these people; that Bin Juma had met some
+natives with fish, and took ten by force, that the natives, in
+revenge, caught three Banyamwezi slaves, and Bin Juma then gave one
+slave to them as a fine, but Mohamad did not know of this affair
+either. I am of opinion, however, that he was fully aware of both
+matters, and Mpamari's caracoling showed that he knew it all, though
+now he denies it.
+
+Bin Juma is a long, thin, lanky Suaheli, six feet two high, with a
+hooked nose and large lips: I told Mohamad that if he were to go with
+us to Manyuema, the whole party would be cut off. He came here, bought
+a slave-boy, and allowed him to escape; then browbeat Chapi's man
+about him (and he says, three others); and caught ten in lieu of him,
+of which Mohamad restored six: this was the origin of the war. Now
+that we are in the middle of it, I must do as Mohamad does in going
+off either by day or by night. It is unreasonable to ask my advice
+now, but it is felt that they have very unjustifiably placed me in a
+false position, and they fear that Syed Majid will impute blame to
+them, meanwhile Syde bin Habib sent a private message to me to come
+with his men to him, and leave this party.
+
+I perceive that the plan now is to try and clear our way of Chapi, and
+then march, but I am so thoroughly disgusted with this slave-war, that
+I think of running the risk of attack by the country people, and go
+off to-morrow without Mohamad Bogharib, though I like him much more
+than I do Mpamari or Syde bin Habib. It is too glaring hypocrisy to go
+to the Koran for guidance while the stolen women, girls, and fish, are
+in Bin Juma's hands.
+
+_8th and 9th December, 1868._--I had to wait for the Banyamwezi
+preparing food: Mohamad has no authority over them, or indeed over
+anyone else. Two Babemba men came in and said that they had given up
+fighting, and begged for their wives, who had been captured by Syde's
+people on their way here: this reasonable request was refused at
+first, but better counsels prevailed, and they were willing to give
+something to appease the anger of the enemy, and sent back six
+captives, two of whom were the wives prayed for.
+
+[At last he makes a start on the 11th of December with the Arabs, who
+are bound eastwards for Ujiji. It is a motley group, composed of
+Mohamad and his friends, a gang of Unyamwezi hangers-on, and strings
+of wretched slaves yoked together in their heavy slave-sticks. Some
+carry ivory, others copper, or food for the march, whilst hope and
+fear, misery and villainy, may be read off on the various faces that
+pass in line out of this country, like a serpent dragging its accursed
+folds away from the victim it has paralysed with its fangs.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_11th December, 1868._--We marched four hours unmolested by the
+natives, built a fence, and next day crossed the Lokinda River and its
+feeder the Mookosi; here the people belonged to Chisabi, who had not
+joined the other Babemba. We go between two ranges of tree-covered
+mountains, which are continuations of those on each side of Moero.
+
+_12th December, 1868._--The tiresome tale of slaves running away was
+repeated again last night by two of Mpamari's making off, though in
+the yoke, and they had been with him from boyhood. Not one
+good-looking slave-woman is now left of Mohamad Bogharib's fresh
+slaves; all the pretty ones obtain favour by their address, beg to be
+unyoked, and then escape. Four hours brought us to many villages of
+Chisabi and the camp of Syde bin Habib in the middle of a set-in rain,
+which marred the demonstration at meeting with his relative Mpamari;
+but the women braved it through, wet to the skin, and danced and
+lullilooed with "draigled" petticoats with a zeal worthy of a better
+cause, as the "penny-a-liners" say. It is the custom for the trader
+who receives visitors to slaughter goats, and feed all his guests for
+at least two days, nor was Syde wanting in this hospitality, though
+the set-in rain continuing, we did not enjoy it as in fine weather.
+
+_14th December, 1868._--Cotton-grass and brackens all over the country
+show the great humidity of Marungu. Rain daily; but this is not the
+great rain which falls when the sun comes back south over our heads.
+
+_15th December, 1868._--March two hours only to the range of Tamba. A
+pretty little light-grey owl, called "nkwekwe," was killed by a
+native as food; a black ring round its face and its black ears gave it
+all the appearance of a cat, whose habits it follows.
+
+_16th to 18th December, 1868._--A brother of Syde bin Habib died last
+night: I had made up my mind to leave the whole party, but Syde said
+that Chisabi was not to be trusted, and the death of his brother
+having happened, it would not be respectful to leave him to bury his
+dead alone. Six of his slaves fled during the night--one, the keeper
+of the others. A Mobemba man, who had been to the coast twice with
+him, is said to have wished a woman who was in the chain, so he loosed
+five out, and took her off; the others made clear heels of it, and now
+that the grass is long and green, no one can trace their course.
+
+Syde told me that the slaves would not have detained him, but his
+brother's death did. We buried the youth, who has been ill three
+months. Mpamari descended into the grave with four others; a broad
+cloth was held over them horizontally, and a little fluctuation made,
+as if to fan those who were depositing the body in the side excavation
+made at the bottom: when they had finished they pulled in earth, and
+all shoved it towards them till the grave was level. Mullam then came
+and poured a little water into and over the grave, mumbled a few
+prayers, at which Mpamari said aloud to me, "Mullam does not let his
+voice be heard;" and Mullam smiled to me, as if to say, "Loud enough
+for all I shall get:" during the ceremony the women were all wailing
+loudly. We went to the usual sitting-place, and shook hands with Syde,
+as if receiving him back again into the company of the living.
+
+Syde told me previously to this event that he had fought the people
+who killed his elder brother Salem bin Habib, and would continue to
+fight them till all their country was spoiled and a desolation: there
+is no forgiveness with Moslems for bloodshed. He killed many, and took
+many slaves, ivory, and copper: his tusks number over 200, many of
+large size.
+
+_19th and 20th December, 1868._--To Chisabi's village stockade, on the
+left bank of the Lofunso, which flows in a marshy valley three miles
+broad. Eight of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves fled by night, one with his
+gun and wife; a, large party went in search, but saw nothing of them.
+
+To-day an elephant was killed, and they sent for the meat, but Chisabi
+ordered the men to let his meat alone: experience at Kabwabwata said,
+"Take the gentle course," so two fathoms of calico and two hoes were
+sent to propitiate the chief; Chisabi then demanded half the meat and
+one tusk: the meat was given, but the tusk was mildly refused: he is
+but a youth, and this is only the act of his counsellors. It was
+replied that Casembe, Chikumbi, Nsama, Merere, made no demand at all:
+his counsellors have probably heard of the Portuguese self-imposed
+law, and wish to introduce it here, but both tusks were secured.
+
+_22nd December, 1868._--We crossed the Lofunso River, wading three
+branches, the first of forty-seven yards, then the river itself, fifty
+yards, and neck deep to men and women of ordinary size. Two were swept
+away and drowned; other two were rescued by men leaping in and saving
+them, one of whom was my man Susi. A crocodile bit one person badly,
+but was struck, and driven off. Two slaves escaped by night; a woman
+loosed her husband's yoke from the tree, and got clear off.
+
+_24th December, 1868._--Five sick people detain us to-day; some cannot
+walk from feebleness and purging brought on by sleeping on the damp
+ground without clothes.
+
+Syde bin Habib reports a peculiar breed of goats in Rua, remarkably
+short in the legs, so much so, that they cannot travel far; they give
+much milk, and become very fat, but the meat is indifferent. Gold is
+found at Katanga in the pool of a waterfall only: it probably comes
+from the rocks above this. His account of the Lofu, or, as he says,
+West Lualaba, is identical with that of his cousin, Syde bin Omar; it
+flows north, but west of Lufira, into the Lake of Kinkonza, so named
+after the chief. The East Lualaba becomes very large, often as much as
+six or eight miles broad, with many inhabited islands, the people of
+which, being safe from invasion, are consequently rapacious and
+dishonest, and their chiefs, Moenge and Nyamakunda, are equally
+lawless. A hunter, belonging to Syde, named Kabwebwa, gave much
+information gleaned during his hunting trips; for instance, the Lufira
+has nine feeders of large size; and one, the Lekulwe, has also nine
+feeders; another, the Kisungu, is covered with, "tikatika," by which
+the people cross it, though it bends under their weight; he also
+ascribes the origin of the Lufira and the Lualaba West, or Lofu, with
+the Liambai to one large earthen mound, which he calls "segulo," or an
+anthill!
+
+_25th December, 1868, Christmas Day._--We can buy nothing except the
+very coarsest food--not a goat or fowl--while Syde, having plenty of
+copper, can get all the luxuries. We marched past Mount Katanga,
+leaving it on our left, to the River Kapeta, and slaughtered a
+favourite kid to make a Christmas dinner. A trading-party came up from
+Ujiji; they said that we were ten camps from Tanganyika. They gave an
+erroneous report that a steamer with a boat in tow was on Lake
+Chowambe--an English one, too, with plenty of cloth and beads on
+board. A letter had come from Abdullah bin Salem, Moslem missionary at
+Mtesa's, to Ujiji three months ago with this news.
+
+_26th December, 1868._--We marched up an ascent 2-1/2 hours, and got
+on to the top of one of the mountain ridges, which generally run N.
+and S. Three hours along this level top brought us to the Kibawe
+River, a roaring rivulet beside villages. There were no people on the
+height over which we came, though the country is very fine--green and
+gay with varying shades of that colour. We passed through patches of
+brackens five feet high and gingers in flower, and were in a damp
+cloud all day. Now and then a drizzle falls in these parts, but it
+keeps all damp only, and does not show in the rain-gauge. Neither sun
+nor stars appear.
+
+_27th and 28th December, 1868._--Remain on Sunday, then march and
+cross five rivulets about four yards wide and knee deep, going to the
+Lofunso. The grass now begins to cover and hide the paths; its growth
+is very rapid: blobs of water lie on the leaves all day, and keep the
+feet constantly wet by falling as we pass.
+
+_29th December, 1868._--We kept well on the ridge between two ranges
+of hills; then went down, and found a partially-burned native
+stockade, and lodged in it; the fires of the Ujiji party had set the
+huts on fire after the party left. We are in the Itande district at
+the Nswiba River.
+
+_30th December, 1868._--We now went due east, and made a good deal of
+easting too from Mount Katanga on the Lofunso, and crossed the River
+Lokivwa, twelve yards wide, and very deep, with villages all about. We
+ascended much as we went east. Very high mountains appeared on the
+N.W. The woods dark gieen, with large patches of a paler hue.
+
+_31st December, 1868._--We reached the Lofuko yesterday in a pelting
+rain; not knowing that the camp with huts was near, I stopped and put
+on a bernouse, got wet, and had no dry clothes. Remain to-day to buy
+food. Clouds cover all the sky from N.W. The river, thirty yards wide,
+goes to Tanganyika east of this. Scenery very lovely.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[66] In 1827 Linant reached 13 deg. 30' N. on the White Nile. In 1841 the
+second Egyptian, under D'Arnauld and Sabatier, explored the river to
+4 deg. 42' N., and Jomard published his work on Limmoo and the River
+Habaiah. Dr. Beke and Mr. D'Abbadie contributed their share to making
+the Nile better known. Brun Rollet established a trading station in
+1854 at Belema on the Nile at 5 deg. N. lat.
+
+[67] Miss Tinne succumbed to the dangers of African travelling before
+Livingstone penned these just words of appreciation.
+
+[68] Ezek. xxiv. 5.
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID
+LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2),
+1866-1868***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 16672.txt or 16672.zip *******
+
+
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672
+
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit:
+https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
diff --git a/16672.zip b/16672.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6be20c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/16672.zip
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8838d30
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #16672 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16672)