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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Winter Tour in South Africa, by Frederick
+Young
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Winter Tour in South Africa
+
+
+Author: Frederick Young
+
+
+
+Release Date: July 30, 2005  [eBook #16399]
+
+Language: en
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Taavi Kalju, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
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+
+
+
+A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA
+
+by
+
+SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.
+
+(Reprinted by permission from the Proceedings of the Royal Colonial
+Institute, with large additions, Illustrations, and a Map.)
+
+London:
+E.A. Petherick & Co., 33, Paternoster Row, E.C.
+
+1890
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MY WAGON.]
+
+
+
+
+TO HER ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCESS LOUISE, MARCHIONESS OF LORNE,
+
+This Volume, describing a recent tour, during which
+   a large portion of Her Majesty's magnificent
+     Dominions in South Africa were traversed,
+       is, by gracious permission, dedicated
+              with feelings of sincere
+                      respect.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+The growth of the great Colonies of the British Empire is so phenomenal,
+and their development is so rapid, and remarkable, that if we are to
+possess a correct knowledge of their actual state, and condition, from
+year to year, their current history requires to be constantly
+re-written.
+
+The writer of a decade since, is, to-day, almost obsolete. He has only
+produced a current record of facts, and places, at the period he wrote.
+This is especially the case with South Africa.
+
+I have recently returned from a very interesting tour in that remarkable
+country. My impressions were noted down, as they occurred, from day to
+day. A summary of my observations, and of the incidents, in connection
+with my journey, was the subject of a Paper I read at the opening
+meeting of the present Session of the Royal Colonial Institute, on the
+12th of November last. I wish it to be understood that the opinions
+expressed on that occasion were my own, and that the Institute as a body
+is in no way responsible for them. This Paper has formed the outline of
+the volume, which--with much new matter from my note book--I now offer
+to the public, in the belief, that the narrative of a traveller, simply
+seeking instruction, as well as amusement, from a few months tour, while
+traversing some 12,000 miles by sea, and 4,000 miles by land, through
+the wonderful country in which he lately roamed, might prove of some
+use, in awakening additional interest on the part of the general public,
+to one of the most promising, and valuable portions of the Colonial
+Empire.
+
+In this spirit, I offer my "Winter Tour in South Africa," to my
+countrymen, "at home and beyond the seas," in the hope that it may
+receive from them, a favourable reception.
+
+On the "Political Situation," I have spoken strongly and frankly, I hope
+not too much so. The result of my personal observations has convinced
+me, that I have only correctly expressed the opinions, very widely
+entertained by large classes of Her Majesty's subjects in South Africa.
+
+I cannot conclude without acknowledging the aid I have derived from the
+Statistical information contained in the "Argus Annual," and it also
+affords me much pleasure to thank Mr. James R. Boosé, the Librarian of
+the Royal Colonial Institute, for the assistance he has rendered me.
+
+FREDERICK YOUNG
+
+5, Queensberry Place, S.W.
+_1st January, 1890._
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+
+MY WAGON                                                       Frontispiece
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN                                         facing 6
+
+PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN                                         facing 8
+
+JOHANNESBURG, MARKET PLACE                                        facing 57
+
+CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL                                             facing 81
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG                                      facing 83
+
+A STREET IN MARITZBURG                                            facing 84
+
+TOWN HALL, DURBAN                                                 facing 86
+
+HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN                                             facing 89
+
+HEX RIVER PASS                                                   facing 107
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+
+DEDICATION.                                                              v.
+
+INTRODUCTION.                                                          vii.
+
+THE VOYAGE.--Embark at Southampton--Amusements at
+Sea--Lisbon--Madeira--Teneriffe--St. Helena--Longwood--Arrival
+at Cape Town                                                            1-4
+
+CAPE TOWN.--Queen's Birthday--Review of Troops--Regatta--Table
+Bay--Table Mountain--Hotels--House of Parliament--Observatory--South
+African Museum--Public Library--Botanic Gardens--Record Office--Places
+of Worship--Harbour Works and Breakwater--Graving Dock--Simon's
+Town--Kalk Bay--Constantia--Wynberg--Journey to Kimberley              5-21
+
+KIMBERLEY.--Address of Welcome from the Fellows of the Royal Colonial
+Institute--Diamond Industry--Bultfontein Mine--DeBeer's
+Mine--Compounds--United Companies--Central Kimberley Diamond
+Mine--Kimberley Hospital--Progress of Kimberley--Town Hall--Post
+Office--High Court--Public Library--Waterworks--_En route_ for
+Bechuanaland--Wagon Travelling--Warrenton--Drake's Farm               22-38
+
+BECHUANALAND.--Scenery--Field for Settlement--Vryburg--Lochnagar
+Farm--Prospect of Gold Discovery                                      39-46
+
+KLERKSDORP.--Nooitgedacht Mine--Pan Washing--Klerksdorp Gold Estates
+Company--Future of Klerksdorp                                         47-49
+
+POTCHEFSTROOM.--Wagon Journey--Presence of Gold-bearing
+Reefs--Vultures--Fort and Cemetery--Chevalier Forssman                50-52
+
+JOHANNESBURG.--Difficulties of Travelling--Appearance of the
+Town--Gold--Knights--The Jumpers--Robinson's--Langlaagte--Descent
+to the Mines--Market Square--Growth of Johannesburg--Sanitary
+arrangements                                                          53-59
+
+PRETORIA.--Water Supply--The Volksraad--President Paul Kruger--High
+Court of Justice--Want of Railroads--Growing Prosperity--Post
+Office--New Government Buildings--Political and Social Life--Pretoria
+Races                                                                 60-65
+
+WATERBURG.--Polonia--Hebron--Salt Pans--Kafirs--Appearance of the
+Country--Prospects of Gold--Scarcity of Game--Bush Fire--Narrow
+Escape--Transport Driver--Waterburg Sulphur Baths--Nylstroom
+Road--Return to Pretoria                                              66-78
+
+PRETORIA TO NATAL.--Coach to Johannesburg--Post Cart
+Travelling--Richmond--Heidelburg--Standerton--Newcastle--Eland's
+Laagte--Natal Railway--Coal Fields--Laing's Nek--Majuba
+Hill--Ingogo--Scenery of Natal                                        79-82
+
+MARITZBURG.--Public Buildings--House of Assembly--Statue of the
+Queen--British Troops                                                 83-84
+
+DURBAN.--Railway Journey--Town Hall--Municipal
+arrangements--Trade--Harbour Works--The "Berea"--Natal Central
+Sugar Company's Manufactory--Trappist Establishment at Marion
+Hill--Defences--Embark for Port Elizabeth                             85-96
+
+PORT ELIZABETH.--Trade--Town Hall--Public Library--Ostrich
+Feathers--The "Hill"--Botanical Garden--Hospital--Water
+Supply--Churches--Presentation of an address                         97-101
+
+GRAHAMSTOWN.--Railway Journey--Scenery--Botanical Gardens--Mountain
+Road--Museum--The Prison--Kafir School--Ostrich Farm at Heatherton
+Towers--Export of Feathers                                          102-105
+
+PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.--Scenery--Hex River Pass--Arrival at
+Cape Town--Lecture at Young Men's Christian Society--Start for
+England--Arrival at Southampton                                     106-108
+
+CLIMATE.                                                            109-112
+
+THE NATIVE QUESTION.                                                113-116
+
+RAILWAYS.                                                           117-122
+
+COLONISATION.                                                       123-127
+
+THE POLITICAL SITUATION.                                            128-148
+
+APPENDIX:--
+
+    I. Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South
+    Africa," by Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial
+    Institute                                                       149-163
+
+    II. Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town       164-173
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+THE VOYAGE.
+
+
+On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. _Spartan_ for
+Cape Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most
+enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or
+pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry on
+so admirably the weekly communication between England and South Africa,
+are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their captains and crews are
+so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin accommodation so ample
+and luxurious, that it seems impossible for anyone, excepting a
+confirmed grumbler, to find any reasonable fault with any of their
+arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will select the
+particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the
+convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any particular
+choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail
+Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line.
+
+A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give opportunity
+for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful and pleasant
+to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and turmoil of
+life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat monotonous, in
+spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged, including
+cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I experienced
+a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to preside at
+concerts, lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon passengers, but
+also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the Bay of Biscay,
+a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the picturesque
+capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the memory of the
+scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which destroyed most of the
+town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants; a short stay at the lovely island
+of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful scenery, to breathe
+its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land at its pretty
+town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings; a passing
+peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention in Europe as
+an attractive health resort; a few days' run of exhausting heat through
+the tropics; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a drive to
+Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon breathed his
+last--leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty name to all
+time--on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more of solitary
+sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales, porpoises,
+dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses; a glance upward, night
+after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern Cross, so much
+belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance, after the
+extravagant encomiums lavished on it; and at length, on the early
+morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+CAPE TOWN.
+
+
+To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is
+essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather.
+Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a
+deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful
+day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter
+genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite
+charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of
+Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually
+striking to a traveller, fresh from the sea, was, that it was the
+Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of
+"Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally _en fête_. The inhabitants
+thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay
+costumes among the motley crowd--English, Dutch, Germans and French,
+Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots--a tremendous gathering,
+in fact, of all nations, and "all sorts and conditions of men." There
+was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which
+His Excellency the Administrator, General Smyth, surrounded by a
+brilliant staff, received the homage due to the British flag; and, as
+her representative on this occasion, to Her Majesty's honoured name. The
+review was followed by a regatta in the afternoon. It was quite
+refreshing to a new arrival, like myself, to observe the enthusiastic
+evidences of loyal feeling everywhere exhibited in the capital of the
+Colony to our Queen, the beloved and venerated head of the British
+Empire.
+
+[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
+
+Before commencing my long and interesting tour "up country," I spent a
+few most pleasant, days at Cape Town. My impressions of it, and of its
+beautiful surroundings, could not fail to be most favourable. The
+panoramic view of its approach from Table Bay, at the foot of Table
+Mountain, is very fine. The town itself appeared to me much cleaner, and
+brighter than I expected to see it, although, it must be admitted, there
+is still considerable room for improvement in its sanitary arrangements,
+and also in the accommodation, and condition of its hotels, to make them
+as attractive as they ought to be. The best of them do not come at all
+up to our standard at home, nor to our English ideas of comfort and
+convenience. A great improvement in these respects, I am satisfied, is
+not only necessary, but would pay well, and induce a far larger number
+of visitors to stay at Cape Town, and avail themselves of its
+attractions of climate, and fine surroundings.
+
+While I was at Cape Town, I visited among other places, the House of
+Parliament, the Observatory, the South African Museum, the Public
+Library, the Botanic Gardens, &c.
+
+[Illustration: PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
+
+The House of Parliament, which was opened for public use in 1885, is a
+very handsome building, having a frontage of 264 feet, and is divided
+into a central portico, leading into the grand vestibule, the two
+debating chambers, and side pavilions. The portico, which is of massive
+dimensions, is approached by a commanding flight of granite steps, which
+runs round three sides of it. The pavilions are relieved by groups of
+pilasters with Corinthian capitals, and are surmounted by domes and
+ventilators. The whole of the ground floor up to the level of the main
+floor has been built of Paarl granite, which is obtained from the
+neighbouring district of that name. The upper part of the building is of
+red brick, relieved by pilasters and window dressing of Portland cement,
+the effect being very pleasing to the eye. The interior accommodation
+for the business of the two Legislative bodies is most complete, and
+arranged with a careful view to comfort and convenience. In addition to
+the Debating Chambers, which are sixty-seven feet in length by
+thirty-six feet in width, there is a lofty hall of stately appearance,
+with marble pillars, and tesselated pavement, which forms the central
+lobby, or grand vestibule. I might mention, that the debating chambers
+are only ten feet in length and width less than the British House of
+Commons. Adjoining the central lobby is the parliamentary library, a
+large apartment, with galleries above each other reaching to the full
+height of the building. The usual refreshment, luncheon, and smoking
+rooms have not been forgotten, in connection with the comfort of the
+members. The public are accommodated in roomy galleries, and ample
+provision has been made for ladies, distinguished visitors, and the
+press. The portrait of Her Majesty, and the Mace at the table reminds
+one forcibly of the fact that one is still in a portion of the British
+Empire. The total cost of the building, including furniture, was
+£220,000.
+
+I attended two or three debates in the House of Parliament, and was much
+impressed with the manner in which, in this superb and commodious
+legislative chamber, the discussions were carried on. There was a quiet
+dignity of debate, as well as business-like capacity and orderly tone,
+observed on both sides of the House, which might be copied with
+advantage, as it is in striking contrast to much of the practice, in the
+Parliament of Great Britain. It is certainly satisfactory to notice,
+that the modern manners and customs, in the popular branch of our own
+ancient national assembly, which so frequently fail in orthodox
+propriety, have not been imitated in the Cape Colony.
+
+At the Record Office attached to the House of Parliament, I went into
+the vaults, and inspected the early manuscripts of the Dutch, during
+their original occupation of the Cape of Good Hope. These are most
+deeply and historically interesting, and valuable. The minute accuracy,
+with which every incident is recorded is most remarkable. There are bays
+in these vaults, filled with records, which must be of priceless value
+to an historical student, and they are now in course of arrangement by
+the able librarian, Mr. H.C.V. Leibbrandt, who is the author of a most
+interesting work entitled "Rambles through the Archives of the Colony of
+the Cape of Good Hope."[A]
+
+At the South African Museum I found a valuable collection of beasts,
+birds, fishes, &c., not only from South Africa, but from various parts
+of the world. The collection has been enriched by valuable contributions
+from Mr. Selous, the distinguished African traveller, and sportsman, his
+donations consisting chiefly of big game, including two gigantic elands,
+(male and female), buffaloes, antelopes, &c. The series of birds
+comprises the large number of two thousand species.
+
+A visit of great interest to me was to the South African Public Library,
+which boasts of about 50,000 volumes, and embraces every branch of
+science and literature. It contains three distinct collections, viz.,
+the Dessinian, the Grey, and the Porter. The first-named was bequeathed
+to the Colony in 1761 by Mr. Joachim Nicholas Von Dessin, and consists
+of books, manuscripts and paintings. The Porter collection took its name
+from the Hon. William Porter, and was purchased from the subscriptions
+raised for the purpose of procuring a life-size portrait of that
+gentleman, in recognition of his services to the Colony. As, however,
+Mr. Porter declined to sit for his portrait, the amount subscribed was
+appropriated to the purchase of standard works, to be known as the
+Porter Collection. By far the most valuable, however, is the Grey
+Collection, numbering about 5,000 volumes, and occupying a separate
+room. These were presented by Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape
+Colony from 1854 to 1859, and still an active member of the New Zealand
+House of Representatives. Here are many rare manuscripts, mostly on
+vellum or parchment, some of them of the tenth century, in addition to a
+unique collection of works relating to South Africa generally.
+
+Among the places of worship in Cape Town the most important are St.
+George's Cathedral, which was built in 1830, and is of Grecian style of
+architecture, and accommodates about 1,200 persons; and the Dutch
+Reformed Church, which possesses accommodation for 3,000 persons, and is
+not unappropriately named the Colonial Westminster Abbey. Beneath its
+floors lie buried eight Governors of the Colony, the last one being Ryk
+Tulbagh, who was buried in 1771.
+
+No account of Cape Town would be complete without a reference to the
+important Harbour Works, and Breakwater, which at once attract the
+attention of the visitor, and which have been in course of erection for
+several years past, from the designs of Sir John Coode. These works
+have been of the greatest importance in extending, and developing the
+commercial advantages of the port. The Graving Dock now named the
+Robinson, after the late Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was formally
+opened during the year 1882, and it so happened that the first vessel to
+enter it was the _Athenian_, in which I returned to England, at the
+termination of my tour. The whole of the works connected with the
+building of the Docks and Breakwater reflect credit upon all who have in
+any way been engaged upon their construction. The amount expended on
+them up to the end of 1887 was £1,298,103.
+
+Before leaving Cape Town, at the invitation of the Naval
+Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Wells, I paid a visit to Simon's Town, the
+chief naval station of the colony. The railway runs at present as far
+as Kalk Bay, which takes about an hour to get to from Cape Town. Kalk
+Bay is a pleasant seaside resort for the inhabitants of the colony, the
+air being regarded as particularly invigorating. The remaining distance
+of six miles to Simon's Town is performed in a Cape cart, which is a
+most comfortable vehicle on two wheels, drawn by two horses with a pole
+between them, and covered with a hood, as a protection from the weather.
+The scenery from the Kalk Bay station to Simon's Town is very
+picturesque. A bold sea stretches out on one side of the road, and the
+mountain on the other. Amongst other things which attracted my attention
+at Simon's Town was the Dockyard, which embraces about a mile of the
+foreshore, and contains appliances for repairing modern war vessels, a
+repairing and victualling depôt, and a patent slip, capable of lifting
+vessels of about 900 tons displacement. I went with the Admiral, and a
+party of ladies to have luncheon on board the Steam Corvette _Archer_.
+
+Simon's Bay is very sheltered, excepting from the south-east, with good
+holding anchorage ground. It seems a quiet, secluded spot, well-adapted
+for a naval station in this part of the world, although I have heard
+that an opinion prevails that the fleet should be at Cape Town instead
+of Simon's Bay. The _Raleigh_ is the flag-ship; I saw also some other
+vessels of the Royal Navy at anchor in the bay. The fortifications which
+are now in progress for the protection of this important point in our
+chain of defences will, when completed, render the place practically
+impregnable from sea attack.
+
+Some of the most beautiful coast scenery I have ever seen is to be found
+in that very lovely drive by Sea Point to Hout's Bay, and thence back to
+Cape Town by Constantia and Wynberg. This is a celebrated excursion,
+and well deserves the praises bestowed upon it. The road has been
+admirably constructed by convict labour.
+
+A very convenient short line of railway also brings within easy reach of
+the inhabitants of Cape Town the pretty villages of Mowbray, Rondebosch,
+Rosebank, Newlands, Wynberg, Constantia, &c., where, in charming villas
+and other residences, so many of the wealthier classes reside. At
+Constantia the principal wine farms are situated, the most noted being
+the Groot Constantia (the Government farm) and High Constantia.
+Constantia wine can only be produced on these farms. Another farm in
+this neighbourhood is Witteboomen, which is particularly noted for its
+peaches, there being over one thousand trees on the farm, in addition to
+many other kinds of fruit. Another one, and probably the largest in the
+district, is named "Sillery." Here not many years ago the ground was a
+wilderness, but it has now attained a high state of perfection, there
+being at least 140,000 vines and hundreds of fruit trees of all kinds,
+under cultivation.
+
+At Cape Town I received the first proofs of the kind and lavish
+attentions which everywhere in South Africa were subsequently bestowed
+upon me. From everyone, without exception--from His Excellency the
+Administrator and Mrs. Smyth, and the members of his staff--from all the
+public men and high officials--from members of the Cape Government, and
+from the leaders of the Opposition, besides from innumerable private
+friends, Dutch and English alike, I received such cordial tokens of
+goodwill, that I can only express my deep sense of appreciation of their
+most genial and friendly hospitality. I bid adieu to Cape Town (which I
+was visiting for the first time in my life) with the conviction that I
+was truly in a land, not of strangers, but of real friends, who desired
+to do everything in their power to make my visit to South Africa
+pleasant and agreeable to me; and this impression I carried with me ever
+afterwards at every place I visited during the whole of my tour.
+
+On Wednesday, May 29, I left Cape Town at 6.30 p.m. for Kimberley,
+passing Beaufort West, the centre of an extensive pastoral district, and
+De Aar, the railway junction from Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. This
+journey is a long one, of between 600 and 700 miles, and of some
+forty-two hours by railway. I travelled all through that night, and the
+whole of the next day, through the most remarkable kind of country I
+ever saw. Flat, and apparently as level, as a bowling-green (although we
+were continually rising from our starting-point at Cape Town to a
+height at Kimberley of about 3,800 feet above the sea), a sandy and
+dreary desert, with occasionally low, and barren hills in the far
+distance--not a tree to be seen, and scarcely any vestige of vegetation,
+excepting now and then, a few of the indigenous Mimosa shrubs, which,
+for hundreds of miles, grow fitfully on this desolate soil. This is the
+wonderful tract of country called the Great Karoo. Not a sign of animal
+life is to be detected, at this period of the year. During the summer
+months it affords pasturage for large flocks of sheep. It is a vast
+interminable _sea of lone land_, over which the eye wanders unceasingly
+during the whole of the daylight hours.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+[Footnote A: The First Series was published in 1887.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+KIMBERLEY.
+
+
+After another long night in the railway train, at noon on the second
+day, after leaving Cape Town, I reached the celebrated diamond town of
+Kimberley, the population of which consists of about 6,000 Europeans,
+with a native population estimated at about 10,000, chiefly concentrated
+in the mining area.
+
+On my arrival at the railway station, I was met by the Mayor, and a
+deputation of the residents of the town. At a conversazione held later,
+and which was attended by over four hundred ladies and gentlemen, the
+following address was presented to me by the Fellows of the Royal
+Colonial Institute resident at Kimberley and Beaconsfield:--
+
+     "Kimberley, _June 1st_, 1889.
+
+     "To SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.
+
+     "A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute.
+
+     "DEAR SIR,--We, the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute,
+     resident in the towns and mining centres of Kimberley, and
+     Beaconsfield, South Africa, cordially welcome your arrival amongst
+     us.
+
+     "We are persuaded that your visit to this distant part of Her
+     Majesty's Dominions has been undertaken, not merely for personal
+     pleasure, but also on behalf of the great and growing need for the
+     consolidation and expansion of colonial interests throughout the
+     Empire.
+
+     "We feel that your own career has been an important factor in the
+     formation of a sound public opinion on this subject, and that it
+     is largely through your patient and far-seeing efforts, that the
+     Royal Colonial Institute has attained its present proud position
+     amongst the various, influences, moulding, organising, and guiding
+     the life and destinies of Her Majesty's Colonial Empire.
+
+     "We believe the present time to be vitally important in the history
+     of Her Majesty's Dominions in South Africa. The tide of
+     confederation, and corporate union is manifestly rising, the wave
+     of extended British influence is flowing northwards, the various
+     nationalities and states of this vast country are educating
+     themselves by experience to see the folly and sterile weakness of
+     isolation, and are learning to realise the inherent strength, and
+     vitality of mutual co-operation, based on a self respecting, yet
+     unselfish responsibility to South Africa as a whole.
+
+     "We venture to suggest that this growing feeling for co-operation
+     will prove a valuable element in the growth, and formation in the
+     near future, of one Grand Confederation of all countries and
+     peoples, owing allegiance to, or claiming corporate alliance with,
+     Her Britannic Majesty's Empire.
+
+     "We rejoice, as members of the Royal Colonial Institute, that your
+     personal merits and public career have been recognised by Her
+     Majesty in the honour conferred upon you, which we trust you will
+     enjoy for many years.
+
+     "Coming amongst us as a Vice-President of our own Institute, your
+     presence symbolises to us the aspiration, radiant in hope, and
+     prophetic in promise, which animates all true and loyal subjects of
+     Her Majesty, and which is alone worthy of our past history, and
+     present responsibilities--the aspirations of a strong and united
+     people for a vigorous, and progressive 'United Empire.'"
+
+To anyone visiting, for the first time, this great centre of the diamond
+industry of South Africa the scene is most extraordinary. The excitement
+and bustle, the wild whirl of vehicular traffic, the fearful dust, the
+ceaseless movement of men and women of all descriptions, and of every
+shade of complexion and colour, are positively bewildering. The thoughts
+of everybody appear to be centred in diamonds, and the prevailing talk
+and speech are accordingly. Being the recipient, myself, of the most
+kind attention and genial and generous hospitality, my stay was most
+agreeable, and pleasant. Great facilities were afforded me for seeing
+everything connected with this wonderful industry, and satisfying
+myself, that there are no present signs of its being exhausted or
+"played out." Indubitable evidences were given me, that diamonds
+continue to be found in as large quantities as ever. They appeared to me
+to be "as plentiful as blackberries."
+
+At the Bultfontein Mine I descended to the bottom of the open workings
+in one of the iron buckets, used for bringing up the "blue ground" to
+the surface. This is rather a perilous adventure. To go down by a wire
+rope, some five or six hundred feet perpendicular into the bowels of the
+earth with lightning rapidity, standing up in an open receptacle, the
+top of which does not approach your waist, oscillating like a pendulum,
+while you are holding on "like grim death" by your hands, is something
+more than a joke. It certainly ought not to be attempted by anyone who
+does not possess a cool head and tolerable nerve.
+
+Here I saw multitudes of natives employed,--as afterwards in the De
+Beer's, the Kimberley, and other diamond mines,--with pickaxes, shovels,
+and other tools, breaking down the ground at the sides of the mine,
+perched at various spots, and many a giddy height. Diamond mining at
+Kimberley is altogether a very wonderful specimen of the development of
+a new industry. In this mine I had explained to me the various
+processes, by which diamonds are discovered in the rocky strata which is
+being constantly dug out of the enormous circular hole, constituting it.
+
+I also visited the celebrated De Beer's Mine. This vast mine, where some
+thousands of workmen, white and coloured, are employed, is carried on
+much in the same way as the Bultfontein, as far as the different
+processes are concerned, of treating the material in which the diamonds
+are found. It is much richer, however, in "blue ground," and
+consequently far more valuable results are obtained from it. For
+instance, the average value of each truck load of stuff from the
+Bultfontein is said to be about 8s., while from the De Beer's it is
+28s. or 30s. The latter mine is now worked underground, in the same way
+as copper and coal mines are worked in England. Excellent arrangements
+are made for the protection and well-being of the native workmen,
+especially by the introduction of "compounds" during the last year or
+two. These are vast enclosures, with high walls, where the natives
+compulsorily reside, after their daily work is done during the whole
+time they remain at work in the mine. This system has been attended with
+the most satisfactory results. I went over the De Beer's "compound,"
+where I saw an immense number of natives, all appearing lively,
+cheerful, and happy. A large number were playing at cards (they are
+great gamblers), and others amusing themselves in various ways. No
+intoxicating liquor is permitted to be sold within the "compounds." The
+weekly receipts for ginger beer amount to a sum, which seems fabulous,
+averaging from £60 to £100 a week. The natives can purchase from the
+"compound" store every possible thing they want, from a tinpot to a
+blanket, from a suit of old clothes to a pannikin of mealies. Before the
+establishment of the "compounds," when the natives had the free run of
+the town, and could obtain alcoholic liquor--on Saturday nights
+especially, after they had done their work and received their weekly
+wages--Kimberley was a perfect pandemonium.
+
+An interesting visit was one to the central offices of the United
+Companies, where I saw the diamonds, as they are prepared ready for
+sale, lying on a counter in small assorted lots, on white paper. This is
+a most remarkable sight. The lots, varying from half-a-dozen to twenty,
+or thirty, or more diamonds, are spread out arranged according to their
+estimated value. I took up one, which I was told would probably fetch
+£1,000, and of which there were several similar ones in the different
+parcels on the counter. The manager showed me a paper of a sale to the
+buyers, a day or two before, of a parcel, which was calculated to
+realise £14,189, and which actually was sold afterwards for £14,150;
+showing the surprising accuracy of the previous estimate on the part of
+the experts.
+
+Another day I went to the Central Kimberley Diamond Mine. After going
+over the mine, my party and myself all "assisted" at the counter in one
+of the large sheds in picking out diamonds from the heap of small stones
+just brought up and laid out from the day's washings. It is rather a
+fascinating occupation, turning over the heap with a little triangular
+piece of tin held in one hand, and continually "scraped" along the
+board. I found several diamonds. We were told, after we had been
+working diligently for an hour or two--there were six of us--that the
+value of the diamonds we had found, and placed in the manager's box, was
+probably £1,200. This seemed to us a good afternoon's work. The entire
+district of Kimberley seems to teem with diamonds, and yet there is no
+cessation in the demand for them, and they are still rising in price.
+Accidents are frequent at these mines, but excellent provision for
+meeting these misfortunes is made in the admirably conducted Kimberley
+Hospital (where there are no less than 360 beds for patients), which I
+visited during my stay. It is under the management of a very remarkable
+woman, Sister Henrietta, and reflects the greatest credit on everyone
+connected with its conduct, and support. The number of native cases
+treated at the Hospital during the year 1887 was 2,975.
+
+Kimberley has risen with immense speed, commencing from what is
+generally known as a "rush," to a large and prosperous centre of wealth,
+trade, and commerce. There, where only a few years since, was to be
+found a collection of tents and small huts, I found a city with handsome
+buildings, churches, stores, institutions, and law courts, and, above
+all, a well ordered society. Some of the buildings which I might
+specially mention, are the Town Hall, the Post Office, the High Court,
+and the Public Library, which has been in existence about seven years,
+and is superintended with such excellent results and most gratifying
+success by the Judge President. One noticeable fact connected with this
+Library is that the number of works of fiction annually taken out by the
+subscribers, exceeds, per head of the population, that of any Public
+Library in the United Kingdom.
+
+The Kimberley Waterworks, which I also visited, have proved a great boon
+to this part, of the Colony. They were erected at a cost of £400,000,
+the water supply being obtained from the Vaal River, seventeen miles
+away.
+
+After spending a most pleasant and agreeable week there, I left
+Kimberley at six o'clock on the morning of June 7, in a wagon drawn by
+eight horses, and accompanied by five friends, for Warrenton, _en route_
+for Bechuanaland and the Transvaal. This mode of travelling was quite a
+novelty to me. Although in this journey of altogether three weeks'
+duration, we occasionally put up at one or two hotels, at some of the
+towns, and sometimes at the farmhouses on our way, we frequently "camped
+out" on the open veldt, and, after finishing our evening meal of the
+rough-and-ready provisions we carried with us, supplemented by the game
+we shot, we wrapped ourselves in our karosses, and slept for the night
+under the canopy of the starlit sky. I occupied the wagon, my more
+juvenile companions lying on the ground beneath it.
+
+This was my first experience of sleeping in the open air in a wagon, and
+this, too, in the depth of a South African winter.
+
+The town of Warrenton is situated on the banks of the Vaal River, and is
+forty-three miles north of Kimberley. It is at present an unimportant
+town, but diamond diggings have been recently opened, and it is a good
+cattle district. It took its name from Sir Charles Warren. Soon after
+leaving Warrenton we crossed the Vaal River on a pontoon. Here a trooper
+of the Mounted Police joined us, who was said to be a very crack shot.
+He rode a charming and well-bred grey horse, and had two admirably
+trained pointers with him. He offered me his horse to ride, he taking
+my place in the wagon. I had a most enjoyable morning's ride on one of
+the best little hacks I ever mounted, cantering over the veldt in the
+track of the wagon for about eight or ten miles--through a charming
+country with a superb view towards Bechuanaland, the veldt being more
+wooded and picturesque, than I had hitherto seen.
+
+We slept that night at Drake's Farm. Before starting the next morning, I
+had a long conversation with Mr. Drake. He was born and brought up in
+London, and was in business with the firm of Moses & Son, of Cheapside,
+as a traveller. He came out here nine years ago with £10 in his pocket,
+and travelled up from Port Elizabeth. Mr. Drake is evidently a man of
+great energy, and perseverance. He has a high opinion of the country,
+and a great idea of its future. His farm and store are situated on the
+borders of Bechuanaland; but he now wishes he had settled there, even in
+preference to where he is. He laughs at the idea of there being no
+water. He says there is plenty to be found at from seventeen to
+twenty-five feet below the surface. But he says it must be dug for. If
+properly irrigated, it is his opinion that thousands and thousands of
+tons of mealies might be grown. He is enthusiastic about the beauty of
+Bechuanaland, and spoke of having seen parts of it in which the charms
+of English scenery are to be found, and even greater attractions than in
+many gentlemen's parks in the Old Country. His opinion of the climate is
+very high. He told me he would on no account exchange his present
+location, with its dry, pure, and bracing air, so healthful,
+invigorating, and free, for the chill, and damps, and fogs of England.
+Mr. Drake was in England during the year 1887 (the Jubilee year), but
+he was glad to get back again to his home on the border of
+Bechuanaland--a very comfortable one, as I can testify from my own
+personal experience.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+BECHUANALAND.
+
+
+I was very much struck with the appearance of the country on first
+entering Bechuanaland. The vast plain, over which I was then riding on
+horseback, was bounded by low, sloping hills, covered with brushwood and
+trees. It suggested to me forcibly the idea of a "land of promise,"
+wanting only an intelligent and energetic people to secure its proper
+and successful development.
+
+In fact, as a field for settlement, I entirely concur with the remarks
+of Mr. John Mackenzie, who has worked for so many years in
+Bechuanaland, and who states in his recent work, entitled, "Austral
+Africa"--
+
+     "I come now to give my own thoughts as to the capabilities of
+     Bechuanaland as a field for colonisation. My mind reverts at once
+     to thrifty, and laborious people who are battling for dear-life on
+     some small holding in England or Scotland, and who can barely make
+     ends meet. I do not think that any class of men, or men of any
+     colour, endure such hardships in South Africa. There are portions
+     of Bechuanaland where, in my opinion, a body of some hundreds of
+     agricultural emigrants would, like the Scottish settlers in
+     Baviaan's river, some sixty years ago, take root from the first,
+     and make for themselves homes. If they came in considerable
+     numbers, and accompanied by a minister of religion, and possibly a
+     schoolmaster, the children would not be losers by the change, while
+     the church and school-house would form that centre in South
+     Africa, with which all are familiar in Scotland, and give the
+     people from the first a feeling of home. I would not suggest that
+     such men should be merely agriculturists, but that like most
+     farmers in South Africa they should follow both branches of
+     farming. They would begin with some sheep, or angora goats, and a
+     few cows. In the first instance they would have a freehold in the
+     village, with right of pasturage, and they would also have their
+     farm itself in the neighbourhood, the size of which would depend
+     upon its locality and capabilities. But with the milk of his stock
+     and the produce of his land in maize, millet and pumpkins, the
+     farmer and his family would be, from the first, beyond the reach of
+     want."
+
+For two days more we travelled through the same kind of country, a fine,
+bold, and very extensive plain (a promising district for cattle
+farming), with rolling and undulating hills in the distance, till we
+reached Vryburg, about a hundred and forty-five miles--in four
+days--from Kimberley. This is the capital of British Bechuanaland, and
+the head-quarters of Sir Sidney Shippard, the Administrator. The town
+itself contains about 500 inhabitants, chiefly Europeans. Here we spent
+four days. On one of these I was taken by Mr. M---- to visit his fine
+Bechuanaland farm of 6,000 morgen--12,000 acres--which he has named
+"Lochnagar." We left Vryburg at 7.30 a.m., and drove about twelve miles
+in the direction of Kuruman, reaching Lochnagar Farm about 10 o'clock.
+While breakfast was preparing, Mr. M---- took me round the nearest part
+of this excellent and valuable farm. He has had it about three years,
+and he has already shown the wonderful capabilities for development
+which an enterprising proprietor, possessed of some capital, can evolve
+from farms in Bechuanaland. He first took me into his fruit garden,
+which he has stocked with fruits of all descriptions. I was particularly
+struck with the healthy appearance of the wood (it was then the middle
+of winter) of the trees of all sorts of fruit. He has planted mulberry,
+apple, pear, apricot, peach, orange, citron, and several other fruits,
+all of which seem to be growing fast, and taking root vigorously in the
+soil. A large space is also devoted to a vineyard, as well as another to
+an orchard.
+
+The farm is well irrigated, there being an abundance of water on it, as
+I myself saw. After breakfast we walked round the cattle lair, where a
+large portion of his 200 head of cattle were collected. I was much
+impressed with the fine appearance of the stock. Large-framed, stalwart
+oxen, and fat milch cows were round me on every side during my
+inspection. I did not notice a single animal that was not in capital
+condition, and fit for the market--if market there could only be. I next
+went through a large enclosure, in which there were about forty horses,
+part of the eighty belonging to Mr. M----. Here I saw several
+three-year-olds, and brood mares, and colts, all looking well and
+healthy, and containing several good, well-shaped, and promising
+specimens of young horseflesh. Mr. M---- has also a flock of one
+thousand sheep on his farm, but these I did not see, as they were out
+grazing on the veldt. We then walked to another portion of the farm,
+lying close to the capital house, built of stone by Mr. M----, to a
+large "pan," or lake, in which there were fish caught with a net. These
+are a sort of carp, and a black-coloured fish of seven pounds or eight
+pounds weight, said to be very good eating. I saw in an outhouse a small
+collapsible boat, which is sometimes used on the lake. In summer, I am
+told, the farm looks very pretty, with its long stretches of bright
+green herbage, and wild flowers, and sunny aspect.
+
+Mr. M---- was born at Cape Town. He is of Dutch origin, and is a fine,
+stalwart-looking man with great energy of character and keen
+intelligence. He seems well fitted to be a pioneer farmer, to develop
+the too-long neglected resources of this fertile land. He is about
+forty-five years of age, and a bachelor. He first arrived on his farm on
+a Saturday night three years ago, and the next day commenced tree
+planting. His first trees were thus planted on a Sunday Morning. This
+was a good omen of the success he deserves, as I remarked to him.
+
+While I was at Vryburg I was also taken by the proprietor of the Vryburg
+Hotel to see a farm about five miles off, where they were prospecting
+for gold. Mr. H---- informed me that the reef I saw, was the same
+description of rock, I should see at Johannesburg. The people in this
+neighbourhood are very sanguine; I was told that this may prove a great
+discovery for Bechuanaland.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+KLERKSDORP.
+
+
+Having received the same hospitable attention, as elsewhere, at Vryburg,
+our wagon party once more resumed its journey. Thirty miles brought us
+to the south-western frontier of the Transvaal, from whence we travelled
+on, through the most dreary, flat, uninteresting, barren, treeless
+plain, for two or three days more, sleeping every night on the veldt,
+until we reached Klerksdorp, about 120 miles from Vryburg. The
+south-western part of the Transvaal is certainly exceedingly inferior in
+appearance to what I saw in Bechuanaland. We remained at Klerksdorp
+three days. While there I visited one or two of the gold mines of this
+promising district.
+
+At the Nooitgedacht Mine I saw the process performed of pan washing of
+the previously crushed quartz. I also went to the stamping house, where
+a machine for crushing has been erected of twenty stamps. I inspected
+the mine generally, and its various shafts already sunk. The work
+appeared to me to be well and systematically conducted. Before leaving
+this mine the great gold cake lump, weighing 1,370 ozs., which was being
+forwarded, the day I was there, to the Paris Exhibition, was put into my
+hands. It seemed a wonderfully big lump of the precious metal, which is
+so earnestly sought for by every race of civilised man.
+
+I also went over another mine, at present in the early stage of its
+development, but which struck me as being conducted, as far as the
+working management was concerned, on good, sound, business
+principles--belonging to the Klerksdorp Gold Estates Company.
+
+My stay at Klerksdorp much impressed me with the idea of the future of
+this town of yesterday's growth. It is only fifteen months ago, (a
+little more than a year) that the whole of the town on the side of the
+stream where the Union Hotel is situated, was begun. The inhabitants
+already number some thousands; and the indications I have seen in the
+mines, of great prospects of gold being found in large and payable
+quantities, are very strong. Klerksdorp may yet become a second
+Johannesburg, whose remarkable and rapid development I was told, would
+astonish me.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+POTCHEFSTROOM.
+
+
+After leaving Klerksdorp, we travelled the next day in our wagon
+thirty-two miles, halting for the night at Potchefstroom, which is not
+only one of the oldest, but one of the most important of the Transvaal
+districts. Recently the presence of gold-bearing reefs has been
+demonstrated in many parts of the division. On our way we passed, during
+the afternoon, a spot on the road where a flock of not less than fifty
+of those unclean birds, vultures, were hovering over and around the
+carcase of a recently dead bullock. These birds are the scavengers of
+this part of the world; they feed greedily on carrion, and rapidly pull
+a dead animal completely to pieces, leaving only the bones, which
+afterwards lie bleaching on the Veldt, to mark the spot where it has
+fallen in death--whether it be either horse, or mule, or bullock--left
+to die, worn out with fatigue by its unfeeling owners.
+
+Before leaving Potchefstroom, the next morning, I paid a hasty visit to
+the Fort and Cemetery, rendered so tragically historical in connection
+with the Transvaal war. It was here that my lamented friend, the late
+Chevalier Forssman, was shut up with his family for ninety days, and
+lost during the siege, two of his children, a son and a daughter. I was
+much struck with the picturesque appearance of Potchefstroom. It has a
+population of about 2,000. Another long two days' journeying of about
+sixty-four miles, through a prettier country than the wide wilderness
+of the boundless and treeless plain, we had hitherto passed through in
+the Western part of the Transvaal, brought us to Johannesburg.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+JOHANNESBURG.
+
+
+We had some little trouble in finding our way into the town, as for the
+last two hours the daylight failed, and we had to grope our way along at
+a snail's pace in total darkness. This, in a country of such rough roads
+and deep and dangerous gulleys and water-courses, was a most intricate
+and difficult proceeding. Eventually, however, we reached our
+destination about nine o'clock at night.
+
+This "auriferous" town is indeed a marvellous place, lying on the crest
+of a hill at an elevation of 5,000 feet above the level of the sea.
+Along its sides are spread out every variety of habitation, from the
+substantial brick and stone structures, which are being erected with
+extraordinary rapidity, to the multitude of galvanised iron dwellings,
+and the still not unfrequent tents of the first, and last comers. It is
+indeed a wonderful and bewildering sight to view it from the opposite
+hill across the intervening valley. Scarcely more than two years have
+elapsed since this town of twenty-five thousand inhabitants commenced
+its miraculous existence. The excitement and bustle of the motley crowd
+of gold seekers and gold finders is tremendous, the whole of the
+live-long day. The incessant subject of all conversation is gold, gold,
+gold. It is in all their thoughts, excepting, perhaps, a too liberal
+thought of drink. The people of Johannesburg think of gold; they talk of
+gold; they dream of gold. I believe, if they could, they would eat and
+drink gold. But, demoralising as this is to a vast number of those, who
+are in the vortex of the daily doings of this remarkable place, the
+startling fact is only too apparent to anyone who visits Johannesburg.
+It is to be hoped that the day will come when the legitimate pursuit of
+wealth will be followed in a less excitable, and a more calm and
+decorous manner, than at present regretably prevails.
+
+I spent a pleasant, as well as interesting, week at Johannesburg; and,
+during my stay, visited several of the mines, among them Knight's, the
+Jumpers, Robinson's, Langlaagte, &c. At Robinson's, I had an opportunity
+of inspecting the wonderful battery just completed, and in full working
+order, constructed on the most approved principles for gold crushing,
+with sixty head of stamps. It is a marvellous specimen of mechanical
+contrivance for crushing the ore. Many parts of the machinery work
+automatically. I ascended the various floors, and had all the processes
+minutely and clearly described to me in a most courteous manner, by the
+superintendent of the battery. I afterwards went down into the mine,
+first to the 70-feet, and then again to the 150-feet levels. In this
+way, I passed two hours wandering underground with a candle in my hand,
+and inspecting the gold-bearing lodes of one of the richest mines in the
+Randt. This mine possesses magnificent lodes, and millions of tons of
+gold-producing quartz. There is a prospect of most profitable results in
+it for years to come. Altogether, from what I have seen of the various
+gold mines of Johannesburg, I am satisfied of the permanence of its gold
+fields. Of course they are not all of equal value; but many, even of
+the poorer mines, when they come to be worked more scientifically, and
+on proper business principles, will ultimately be found to pay fairly,
+although they may never be destined to yield such brilliant results, as
+some of those I have mentioned. The Market Square (of which an
+illustration is given) is the largest in South Africa, covering an area
+of 1,300 feet in length, and 300 feet in width. Some idea of the growth
+of Johannesburg may be gathered from the fact, that at the latter part
+of the year 1886 there was not a Post Office in existence, whilst the
+revenue of that department for the first quarter of 1887 was £167, and
+at the end of 1888 it had risen to £7,588.
+
+[Illustration: JOHANNESBURG MARKET PLACE.]
+
+This extraordinary and rapid growth has unfortunately produced the usual
+results, when an immense population is suddenly planted on a limited
+area, without any proper sanitary arrangements being provided for their
+protection. From its elevated situation and naturally pure and dry
+atmosphere, Johannesburg ought to be a very healthy town. That it
+notoriously is not so, and that the amount of sickness and death-rate
+from fever and other diseases is abnormal, must, undoubtedly, be
+attributed to the great neglect and utter absence of an efficient system
+of drainage. I fear this state of things will continue; and the
+certainty of serious increase, as the population continues to grow
+rapidly, is only too likely, until there is established some kind of
+municipal body, acting under Governmental authority, to adopt a thorough
+and complete system of sanitation. It is to be hoped that the Transvaal
+Government, which is having its treasury so rapidly filled from the
+pockets of the British population, which is pouring into Johannesburg,
+as well as into so many other towns in the Transvaal, will awake in
+time to the importance of taking measures for thoroughly remedying this
+great and glaring evil, which is becoming such a scandal, as well as
+creating such widely spread and justifiable alarm among the British
+community in the Transvaal.[B]
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+[Footnote B: Since my return to England I am glad to hear that a
+Sanitary Board is to be established at Johannesburg.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PRETORIA.
+
+
+From Johannesburg I proceeded to Pretoria, a distance of about
+thirty-five miles, through a fine, and bold, and sometimes pretty
+country. Some of the views on the way were extensive and picturesque.
+Pretoria itself is an exceedingly pretty town, situated at the base of
+the surrounding hills. There is a continuous, and most abundant supply
+of water running through all the principal streets. Here, again, I was
+forcibly reminded of the absence of any municipal body--although
+Pretoria is the seat of Government--for dealing with the sanitary and
+other wants of the town. The dust, every day (as at Johannesburg), was
+intolerable, although, with the abundance of water flowing unceasingly
+through the streets, it would be the easiest thing in the world to apply
+it, as much as could possibly be wanted, to water them, and keep the
+dust down. I remained for three weeks at Pretoria. While there I
+attended some meetings of the Volksraad, accompanied by a Dutch friend
+who kept me _au fait_ of the proceedings by translating to me the
+speeches of the various members, on the subjects under discussion.
+
+The debates are held in a very large, somewhat low-pitched apartment.
+About fifty members were present. The President of the Volksraad sat at
+a table on a platform, covered with green cloth. On one side of him, at
+the same table, sat Paul Kruger, the President of the Transvaal
+Republic. General Joubert--who defeated the English at Majuba Hill--sat
+at a separate table on the left of the chairman.
+
+I was also present, more than once, at the sittings of the High Court of
+Justice. The proceedings are conducted both in English and Dutch.
+
+By the courtesy of the Chief Justice, I was introduced by him at a
+special interview, which lasted half-an-hour, to Paul Kruger. During our
+conversation, which was carried on by my speaking in English, translated
+into Dutch by the Chief Justice, I referred to the fact of my having
+been introduced to him in England some years ago. I went on to speak of
+my having come from England to South Africa to learn. That I had already
+learned much, and that I was much pleased with all I had seen,
+especially in the Transvaal, which seemed to me a country teeming with
+riches and great natural resources. That I was a great friend to
+railroads, and that I was never in a country which I thought required
+railroads so much as the Transvaal. I expressed a hope, therefore, to
+see the day when the country would be penetrated by them in every
+direction--east, and south, and west. The President smiled at my
+strongly expressed aspiration, but did not give me any other reply.
+
+Like every other town in the Transvaal, Pretoria shows signs of
+rapidly-growing prosperity. Public buildings and private dwelling-houses
+are springing up in every direction. The Post Office, recently finished,
+is capacious and commodious; and the new Government buildings for the
+accommodation of the Volksraad and the Courts of Justice, already
+commenced, but, as yet, only a few feet from the ground, and which cover
+a very large space, promise to be very fine and imposing. While at
+Pretoria I had ample opportunity for observing many of the prevalent
+features of both political and social life, and especially of the
+condition of the large native population of the town.
+
+The Pretoria winter races took place during my stay there. The races
+were very good and well-conducted. There was a large and orderly crowd
+who appeared thoroughly to enjoy themselves, and their outing in that
+fine and sunny climate. The Racecourse seemed a good one, though rather
+hard owing to the dry weather. It is in a very pretty spot with
+picturesque surroundings.
+
+The Kafirs, who are employed in great numbers, and who are earning high
+wages at their various occupations, are always to be seen, either
+working hard, or, after the hours of labour are over, amusing
+themselves cheerfully, chatting at street corners, walking, gossiping,
+and talking, and gratifying themselves by giving vent to their very
+voluble tongues. Here also, as at Johannesburg, at Potchefstroom, and at
+Klerksdorp, I was forcibly struck with the large amount of English
+spoken, as well as of the number of English names over the various shops
+in the Transvaal towns. This is an interesting and important fact, which
+marks the tendency of the direction of future development. The country
+must certainly become more and more anglicised, in spite of the
+political efforts made to oppose it.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+WATERBURG.
+
+
+I left Pretoria on July the 17th in a wagon with eight horses,
+accompanied by two friends, for an excursion into the Waterburg district
+of the Transvaal. On this occasion we travelled about one hundred and
+fifty miles north of Pretoria in the course of a fortnight, returning
+about the same distance back again. We had a half-breed servant named
+Sole with us, who made himself generally useful during our journey. All
+this time we camped out day and night, sleeping always in the open
+veldt, in true gipsy fashion.
+
+We went by the Van der Vroom Poort, having the Maalieburg range of
+mountains on our left.
+
+Our first night was spent at a farm called "Polonia," belonging to a
+Russian Missionary who has been for many years in the Transvaal. He
+unites the pursuits of spiritual instruction according to the tenets of
+the Greek Church, with farming on a large scale. On leaving "Polonia" we
+passed the large and picturesque German Mission Station of "Hebron,"
+which is situated in the midst of a rich and fertile valley. One night
+we outspanned at a spot called the "Salt Pans." While breakfast was
+being prepared the next morning, I walked to see those wonderful "Salt
+Pans," which were close to our camping ground. I descended by a steep
+path some six hundred or seven hundred feet to the bottom. It is an
+immense amphitheatre at the base of thickly wooded hills. It is larger
+in extent than the vast open excavation formed by the "Kimberley" Mine
+at Kimberley. The salt and soda brine is perpetually oosing from the
+bottom, and is continually being scraped up with a sort of wooden
+scraper into heaps, where, after a time, by the action of the
+atmosphere, it becomes crystallised. I picked up and brought away with
+me several crystals of pure salt. This is another of the marvels of the
+Transvaal, a country which abounds in natural wealth of all kinds,
+fitted for the service of man. These Salt Pans are the property of the
+Transvaal Government, which derives a considerable income from the tax
+imposed for taking away the salt, and soda, from them.
+
+Frequently during our journey we outspanned just outside the Kafir
+kraals, and often entered into them; one of my companions speaking the
+native, as well as the Dutch languages very fluently. We were always
+received by both Boers, and Kafirs, very kindly. Sometimes we were
+accompanied by a large number of Kafirs for days. I remember once,
+counting as many as forty Kafirs sitting round our camp fire, clothed
+and unclothed, and in every variety of costume, from the old British
+Artillery tunic to the equally ancient pea coat, the bright-coloured
+blue morning jacket, and the cloak of Jackall skins. On this occasion
+they remained all night with us, keeping up the fire and indulging in
+endless and cheerful talk among themselves. When I wrapped myself in my
+kaross and turned into the wagon at night I left them talking. When I
+awoke in the early morning I found them talking still.
+
+The country I saw in the Northern part of the Transvaal is very
+different, and far more picturesque than it is in the South-West or
+South-East, which have a close resemblance to one another, in their
+bare, barren, treeless, and dreary character. I saw some parts which
+were really beautiful. One day we drove for several miles through quite
+lovely scenery. In passing along the road I was forcibly reminded of the
+road between Braemar and Mar Lodge, in Aberdeenshire, which it strongly
+resembles. The road runs on the side of the hill, sloping down to the
+rivulet at the bottom, exactly like the river Dee, and the Rooiburg, or
+red tinted, Mountain, exactly resembles the heather on the Scottish
+hills. It is altogether a charming spot, and a perfect picture of fine
+scenery. There is a large quantity of excellent and valuable timber in
+this district, as well as abundant evidence of mineral-bearing quartz. I
+believe that, some day, other Johannesburgs are destined to rise in the
+Northern part of the Transvaal, rivalling, or perhaps even eclipsing,
+the treasures already discovered in the Randt.
+
+At the spot I have described, which is called Hartebeestepoort, not far
+from the banks of the Zand River, where there is a good quantity of
+excellent and valuable timber, there was quite a romantic scene one
+night. We were discussing, as usual, our evening meal round our camp
+fire. It was starlight, but otherwise we were in total darkness. In
+addition to ourselves, there were nine Kafirs, making a party of a dozen
+altogether. It was an intensely interesting and remarkable scene to me,
+to find myself surrounded by these wild fellows in perfectly friendly
+fashion, in the midst of the vast veldt, the silence and stillness only
+broken every now and then by the cry of the jackals howling in the
+distance. On leaving here we travelled north towards Grouthoek, which
+is situated in the midst of the Rhynoster range of mountains, being
+drawn by oxen, our horses following us, in order to give them rest, and
+so keep them fresher.
+
+I was disappointed at the small quantity of game we found on our
+journey. We occasionally shot a springbok, and I thus had an opportunity
+of making myself acquainted with the delicious flavour of the South
+African venison. But the days of the enormous herds which once abounded
+in these regions are gone. They have been either exterminated by the
+Boers, or been driven far northward, into the interior of Africa,
+together with the lions and elephants, over whose former habitation I
+was travelling. There are still a good many koodoos, and hartebeestes in
+this neighbourhood, but I was not fortunate enough to come across them.
+Our commissariat was occasionally supplemented by a delicious bird,
+about the size of a pheasant, called the kooran, as well as by a few
+pheasants, partridges, and guinea fowls.
+
+One afternoon we were exposed to a thrilling adventure, which, but for
+the merciful interposition of Providence, might have terminated in a
+most disastrous way. Suddenly, as we were driving along the road,
+through a dense wood, we discovered to the right of us the light of an
+immense bush fire. It was careering wildly along, fiercely burning, and
+sweeping everything before it. We saw it was coming swiftly towards the
+road we were travelling. We pulled up the horses, and taking out lucifer
+matches, jumped off the wagon, and tried to set alight to the grass,
+which was about five or six feet high, and very dry, close by us, in
+order to secure a clear open space around us. But it was too late. The
+fierce fire, to the height of several feet, was rushing and crashing
+through the wood furiously towards us. Another moment, and we should
+have been within its terrible grasp, and wagon, horses, and ourselves
+infallibly burnt. It was in truth an awful crisis. We jumped back into
+the wagon and pushed frantically forward. Showers of sparks were already
+in the road. But, fortunately, the fire, which for a full half mile was
+burning behind us, was only a short distance in front of us, and, thank
+God, we happily escaped.
+
+One of the great advantages I have derived from my tour is, that I have
+had many opportunities of communicating personally with so many men of
+different races, and all classes--British, Dutch, and natives.
+
+During my present journey I had a most interesting conversation one
+morning with a transport driver, who was travelling by the northern
+part of the Transvaal, with three hundred lean cattle from the Cape
+Colony into Bechuanaland. He gave me some very valuable and important
+information with regard to Colonial feeling in the country districts of
+the Cape Colony. He was Colonial born, and a fine, handsome man of about
+forty--a descendant of the Scotch farmers, who emigrated to the Cape in
+1820. His conversation impressed me much. He told me that the Colonists
+generally are loyal to the Queen to the backbone; but not to the British
+Government, which they consider has not represented their feelings and
+opinions, and has sacrificed their interests. They dislike the Colonial
+Government, and are not favourable to responsible Government, as they
+see it.
+
+They would prefer being under the British Government direct, in spite of
+all its terrible mistakes and mishaps, from which they have so cruelly
+suffered. My informant's opinion was, that the present policy of the
+administration in Bechuanaland is not conducive to encourage emigration,
+as it puts artificial impediments in the way of farmers with small means
+settling there, which, he thought, they would do in crowds from the
+Colony, if they were allowed to do so on paying a quit rent, say of £10
+or £15 per annum, instead of the high terms of £40 demanded at present.
+He had a very high opinion of Bechuanaland as a cattle-grazing country.
+
+The Waterburg warm sulphur baths--to which I paid a visit, taking a hot
+bath myself, which was certainly much too hot for me, but which was
+otherwise refreshing, after nearly a fortnight's residence on the veldt,
+where there is a decided scarcity of water, both for drinking and
+washing purposes--are situated about seventy miles north of Pretoria.
+They are extensively patronised by the Boers, and are said to be most
+efficacious in every variety of rheumatic and gouty complaints. They are
+strongly impregnated with sulphur, and might be made very attractive in
+the hands of anyone of enterprise, who would construct a suitable
+establishment of baths, fit for patients who would be quite ready to pay
+handsomely for them, instead of the miserably primitive and wretched
+receptacles, called baths, into which the highly excellent natural
+sulphur water is conveyed, and used by the motley crowd of invalids I
+saw there.
+
+From the Waterburg warm baths our route lay to the southward, across the
+Springbok Flats, to the Nylstroom road, along which, in two days more,
+we accomplished the intervening distance of about seventy miles back to
+Pretoria, thus concluding a most interesting and instructive journey
+into the northern part of the Transvaal. During all this time, with the
+exception of the first night, I lived entirely in our wagon, sleeping in
+it every night, and having every meal (which consisted principally of
+the game we shot on the way), cooked at the various camp fires kindled
+on the veldt, and drinking nothing but tea. I saw much, of course, of
+the Kafirs in their kraals, as well as of the Boers in their tents and
+wagons, in my trek through this wilderness.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PRETORIA TO NATAL.
+
+
+After reaching Pretoria, I stayed only two days there, engaged in
+bidding farewell to my numerous friends, and making preparations for my
+next long journey into Natal. I left Pretoria for Johannesburg by coach,
+on the 1st of August, and started from the latter town at five o'clock
+in the morning of the 3rd, in very cold weather and pitch dark, by the
+post cart. This most uncomfortable vehicle is a kind of wagonette, with
+somewhat dilapidated canvas curtains, through which the wind whistled
+most unpleasantly, being utterly insufficient to keep out the cold. It
+is drawn by eight horses, and has cramped seats for eight or ten
+passengers. On this occasion there were seven others besides myself. In
+addition the mail bags were crammed inconveniently under the seats. In
+this post cart I travelled for three days and two nights by way of
+Richmond, Heidelburg, Standerton,--where cattle rearing and horse
+breeding is successfully carried on,--and Newcastle, which will be
+remembered as having been the base of operations during the Boer war,
+and also as the place where the final treaty of Peace was drawn up and
+signed by the joint Commission, to Eland's Laagte, the present terminus
+of the Natal railway, thirteen miles beyond Ladysmith. At Eland's Laagte
+a very promising coal field is being worked, from which great and
+important results are expected in the future. Soon after crossing the
+Transvaal border we passed the battle fields of Laing's Nek, Majuba
+Hill, and Ingogo, names indelibly associated with one of the saddest, as
+well as most humiliating, episodes of English modern military history,
+in connection with the Transvaal War of 1881. I gazed mournfully on
+Majuba Hill, that black spot of bitter memories to every Briton, and of
+natural exultation and pride to the Boers; and on Colley's grave, the
+unfortunate commander, whose unhappy and most unaccountable military
+blunder led to the lamentable and fatal defeat, which cost him his life,
+and resulted in the miserable fiasco--the retrocession of the Transvaal
+to the Boers. It is impossible to estimate the damage done to British
+influence, prestige, and power by the political consequences resulting
+from that disastrous day.
+
+[Illustration: CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL.]
+
+The south-eastern part of the Transvaal is as bare, and treeless, and
+altogether as uninteresting and unattractive as the south western
+region, between Bechuanaland and Klerksdorp, through which I had
+travelled a few weeks previously. The instant, however, the border is
+crossed, and Natal is entered, the scene is at once changed, and the
+beauty of the surrounding country becomes apparent. Instead of the flat,
+wearisome desert of the Transvaal, undulating hills, clothed with
+verdure, and an extensive panorama of broad and fertile plains meets the
+eye.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+MARITZBURG.
+
+
+After leaving Ladysmith, I proceeded to Maritzburg, the seat of
+Government of Natal. This picturesque town is in a charming situation,
+the surrounding scenery being extremely pretty. The town itself, is well
+laid out, the streets being wide, and in most cases edged with trees.
+Amongst its public buildings may be mentioned the new House of Assembly,
+of which Sir John Akerman is Speaker. It is a handsome edifice, well
+arranged, and economically constructed at a cost of £20,000. A life-size
+statue of Her Majesty is to be erected in the front of the building,
+the pedestal of which is already _in situ_.
+
+While staying at Government House, and enjoying the kind hospitality of
+Sir Charles and Lady Mitchell, my ear was often gladdened by the sound
+of the cavalry bugle and the roll of the drum, those striking symbols of
+British sway, as the troops passed my window in their early morning
+rides. I am persuaded that these outward evidences of latent power,
+impress not only the minds of Englishmen, but of natives also, in this
+distant land. There cannot be a doubt of the influence exercised by the
+British race over the aboriginal inhabitants of South Africa. That this
+should be used, at all times, with justice, tact, and discretion, "goes
+without saying;" but that it is a factor of great effect on their minds
+is unquestionable.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN MARITZBURG.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+DURBAN.
+
+
+The railway journey from Maritzburg to Durban, a distance of fifty-seven
+miles by road, is long and rather tedious travelling on account of the
+slow pace. The line (a single one), which seems to have been very
+skilfully engineered, is necessarily constructed with such steep
+gradients that this seems inevitable. The long stoppages at stations
+might be certainly improved. Durban is the prettiest as well as one of
+the cleanest, and most well-ordered towns I have seen in South Africa. I
+was at once struck with the Town Hall, a magnificent building, recently
+erected, and generally stated to be, although not the largest, in some
+respects the handsomest in South Africa. The total cost of construction
+was about £50,000, and it is worthy of note that in their selection of
+an architect, the Corporation of Durban did not have to go beyond their
+own town, an efficient man being found in Mr. P.M. Dudgeon. The building
+is of the Corinthian order of architecture, having a frontage of 206
+feet, with a depth of 270 feet. It is prettily situated, and is a
+striking proof of what colonists can do when an occasion demanding
+skill, and perseverance, arises. There are several other fine buildings
+in the town. A stranger coming from the Transvaal is immediately
+impressed with the contrast between the careless indifference, which
+marks the absence of proper municipal arrangements in the towns of the
+South African Republic, and the proofs of their presence in an
+energetic British community. The Natalians certainly deserve the
+greatest credit for the way in which they carry on the business and
+manage the public affairs of their prosperous, and thriving town, which
+has a population of 17,000, of whom about 9,000 are Europeans. Recent
+commercial returns show that the trade of Natal, of which Durban, as the
+seaport town, is the centre, is rapidly increasing.
+
+[Illustration: TOWN HALL, DURBAN.]
+
+The imports during the first three-quarters of the year 1888 were about
+two millions; and in 1889, during the same period, they had risen to
+three millions. The exports during 1888 were one million; for the same
+period in 1889 they were one million and a quarter. Imports have
+advanced 50 per cent., exports by 25 per cent. Customs revenue has
+advanced by 25 per cent., and if the receipts be maintained, which is
+more than probable, the total income for the year from this source will
+reach £350,000. It is anticipated that the combined trade of Natal for
+the year 1889 will not be far short of six millions sterling. The
+increase is a substantial one, and, what is more satisfactory, is that
+there appears to be every reasonable prospect that the trade will go on
+increasing by leaps and bounds. Affairs are in a generally prosperous
+state, and a good sign is to be found in the fact that the emigration
+returns are also rapidly rising.
+
+[Illustration: HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN.]
+
+The gigantic Harbour Works, commenced and now nearly successfully
+completed for the purpose of removing the bar, according to the plans
+both of Sir John Coode, and subsequently of his pupil, their late
+lamented engineer, Mr. Innes, and under the active personal
+superintendence of their distinguished townsman the Chairman of the
+Harbour Board, comprise an undertaking of which the citizens of Durban
+may well be proud. Nor is less credit due to them, and to their spirited
+leaders, for their enterprise in so rapidly pushing on their railway to
+the Transvaal border, in the confident expectation that they will be the
+first to bring the benefits of that most necessary modern mode of
+conveyance, both for passengers and goods, into the heart of the
+Transvaal Republic.
+
+The Harbour Works, the Railway, and the Durban Town Hall are all works
+of sufficient magnitude to give undoubted evidence of the public spirit
+and unconquerable energy of the people of Natal.
+
+The inhabitants of Durban are fortunate in possessing picturesque
+surroundings to their pretty town. The "Berea," one of its most
+attractive spots, is an elevated suburb where many of the principal
+merchants, and others have their residences. It commands a lovely
+prospect over the bay, and a beautiful view of the country inland.
+
+During, my stay at Durban I paid visits to two of the most remarkable
+places in the neighbourhood. These were the Natal Central Sugar
+Company's manufactory at Mount Edgcumbe, and the famous Trappist
+establishment at Marionhill. The sugar manufactory is situated on a farm
+of some 8,000 acres, about 15 miles from Durban. A short railway ride
+brought me to it. I was courteously received by the manager, Monsieur
+Dumat. This gentleman, a Frenchman of great experience in the
+manufacture of sugar both in India and Mauritius, has been at Mount
+Edgcumbe for the last ten years. He is remarkable for the way in which
+he maintains order and control over all his numerous native workmen. In
+the mill itself there are 160 men employed, everyone of whom is a
+Coolie. There is not a single white man on the premises, excepting two
+English clerks in the counting house. I was astonished at the perfect
+order which reigned in the mill, where I spent some time. Everyone
+appeared to perform his allotted task with activity, cheerfulness, and
+untiring perseverance. Monsieur Dumat told me he could never get the
+same steady work from white workmen. He seems to govern them all with
+perfect tact and kindness. Some of them have been with him for many
+years. There are about 900 other men, Kafirs and Coolies, employed on
+the farm. I was shown all the various processes of sugar manufacture,
+from the crushing of the cane, to the crystallising of the sugar. The
+first sorts are ready for sale in forty-eight hours; other qualities
+require a week, and again even as much as six months to perfect them.
+There is some wonderful machinery in the mill.
+
+The Trappist establishment at Marionhill is one which should be seen by
+everyone visiting Natal. It is reached by rail from Durban in about an
+hour's ride to the Pine Town station. A drive from thence of about four
+miles brings a visitor to Marionhill. The monks, as is well known, are
+under a vow of strict silence. I was met by one of them at the station,
+who drove me in a waggonette to the Trappist farm. Here I was met by,
+and presented to, the Abbot. He is the real leader and director of this
+remarkable establishment. He devoted three hours to taking me over it,
+and showing me all the various industries and works which are carried
+on. About two hundred brothers are there at present, but more are
+expected shortly, and upwards of one hundred sisters, and about three
+hundred Kafirs. The latter are taught, not only the ordinary branches
+of a practical education (of course including religion), but all sorts
+of handicraft. It is, emphatically, a school of technical education.
+Everything is manufactured and made at Marionhill, from the substantial
+bullock wagons, and the delicate spiders, to the baking of bread, the
+building of houses, stables, and cattle lairs, the printing of
+periodicals, and book-binding. Work is the great and leading feature of
+the Trappist creed. The motive power is religion. Its controlling
+influence is here complete.
+
+I came away quite amazed at all I saw, as well as pleased at the
+attention I received from the Abbot. He is certainly a very remarkable
+man, of great natural gifts, and indomitable energy and power. He is
+sixty-five years of age. He was born on the shores of Lake Constance;
+and before he took to studying for the Roman Catholic Church in a
+German University, he was employed, as he told me, in early life in the
+care of cattle at his native home.
+
+The Trappist farm is beautifully situated, and within its area contains
+some really fine scenery. The Kafir women's part of the establishment is
+distinct, and quite half a mile distant from the men's quarters. Women
+are taught to sew, and sing, to cut out and make dresses, to cook,
+clean, and go through all the usual routine of household work. The
+costume of the female Trappists, who, as well as the male, are highly
+educated, is scarlet serge, with white aprons. The men are clothed in
+brown serge.
+
+I was struck with the admirable arrangement of the stables, constructed
+for twenty horses, and of the cow and cattle sheds. All the engineering
+works also show evidences of the complete knowledge of science possessed
+by the "brothers," and their energetic leader. I came away much
+interested, and wonderfully impressed with all I had seen in this
+remarkable institution.
+
+Up to the present time the defences of the Colony have been in a very
+backward state but I was glad to find that a battery is in course of
+construction, commanding the entrance to the Bay, which is to be armed
+with guns of the latest pattern, one of them having recently arrived at
+Durban.
+
+Having passed ten very pleasant days at Durban and its neighbourhood, I
+embarked, on the 15th of August, on board the coasting steamer,
+_Anglian_, for Port Elizabeth. I had a terrible experience of the
+annoyance of the present mode of embarking passengers at Durban. After
+attempting to get over the Bar in a tremendous sea, we were obliged to
+put back into the Harbour thoroughly drenched. Once more attempting it,
+we succeeded after another good wetting in getting alongside the
+_Anglian_, where we remained at anchor until the morning, waiting for
+the Cargo Boat we were obliged to leave behind, rolling and pitching all
+night. The eastern coast of South Africa is subject to weather which is
+often very rough and stormy; and I was, unluckily, destined to
+experience it. I certainly had a most disagreeable time, in making this
+short voyage. After touching at East London, where extensive harbour
+works are being constructed, I was landed at Port Elizabeth (after three
+days' knocking about at sea) on the 18th, being let down, like St. Paul,
+in a basket, from the deck of the _Anglian_ to the tug, which took me to
+the pier in the open roadstead. Right glad was I to get on _terra firma_
+again.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PORT ELIZABETH.
+
+
+Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay) which is generally known as the "Liverpool"
+of South Africa, is the chief seaport of the Eastern Province, its trade
+being steadily increased by the development of the Transvaal Gold
+Fields, and the growth of the interior towns of the Cape Colony. It is a
+thriving business town. Its inhabitants, like those of Natal, are
+thoroughly energetic and active in the pursuit of their various
+mercantile avocations, and number about 12,000, a large proportion being
+Europeans.
+
+The town contains many fine buildings, the most conspicuous being the
+Town Hall and Public Library combined, which is a striking edifice,
+erected at a cost of £26,000. Attached to it is the market, leading out
+of which is a splendid and capacious hall, 180 feet long by 90 feet
+broad. Here I saw a curious and unique scene. Long tables were extended
+along its entire length, on which were arranged large heaps of ostrich
+feathers, carefully tied up, and sampled for sale. Port Elizabeth is the
+staple market for this industry. The value of the feathers I saw, I was
+told, was something fabulous.
+
+Port Elizabeth is a handsome town. In the upper part of it, called the
+Hill, there are many good private residences, and an excellent club
+house, at which I stayed, and enjoyed the kind hospitality, courteously
+extended to me.
+
+A large, well kept, and conveniently laid out botanical garden, which
+is much resorted to, is a great attraction to the town. There is also an
+excellent hospital at Port Elizabeth. I was much pleased with its
+appearance, and with the arrangements made for the comfort of the
+patients. The ventilation struck me as being particularly perfect. There
+is accommodation for 100 patients, male and female. A well-arranged
+children's ward, attracts much attention, especially with the lady
+visitors.
+
+There is, in addition, a good water supply obtained from Van Staden's
+River, distant about twenty-seven miles from the town, at a cost of
+about £150,000.
+
+There are several Churches, including Trinity Church, St. Augustine's
+Roman Catholic Cathedral, the Scottish Presbyterian Church, and a
+Congregational Church, upon which no less a sum than £7,715 was
+expended.
+
+Previously to leaving Port Elizabeth, the following address was
+presented to me by the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute resident
+there:--
+
+     TO SIR, FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.,
+
+     _A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute._
+
+     "SIR,
+
+     "We, the undersigned Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute, take
+     advantage of your presence amongst us to join in the expression of
+     hearty welcome to South Africa, which has greeted you in the
+     several towns where you have met the Members of the Institute, with
+     which you have been so long and honourably connected.
+
+     "We are mindful of the valuable services which you have so long
+     rendered to our Institute, as Honorary Secretary, the indefatigable
+     zeal ever displayed by you in forwarding the interests of the
+     Colonies of Great Britain; and that the success of the
+     Institution, over which you now preside, as one of the
+     Vice-Presidents, is in no small degree due to your exertions. We
+     venture to hope that your visit to South Africa has been an
+     agreeable one, and that with renewed health you will return home to
+     resume and continue the valuable services you have heretofore
+     rendered, and that the Royal Colonial Institute may continue to
+     flourish under the auspices of the distinguished men who so ably
+     guard its interests."
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+GRAHAMSTOWN.
+
+
+While I was at Port Elizabeth I paid a flying visit to Grahamstown. A
+railway journey of rather over one hundred miles carried me there. The
+railway runs through the veldt, where wild elephants are still strictly
+preserved. There are said to be more than one hundred of these animals
+in the district. They occasionally do great damage to the line. During
+my stay I was hospitably entertained by the Bishop. I had already heard
+that Grahamstown was noted for its natural charms, and its appearance
+certainly did not disappoint me. Beautiful in situation, it merits the
+high praises which have been bestowed upon it. It has also acquired a
+reputation for being the seat of learning, and the centre of the
+principal educational establishments of the Colony. The Bishop having
+kindly provided me with a carriage, I drove to see the various objects
+of interest in the neighbourhood. I first went to the Botanical Gardens,
+which are very striking. They contain a large collection of rare and
+valuable specimens of both arboriculture and horticulture. They are
+admirably kept, and are very ornamental. I next drove round the Mountain
+road. This is a beautiful drive of seven miles back into the town. The
+views of the surrounding country are superb. It is a priceless boon to
+the inhabitants of Grahamstown to possess such an attractive and
+health-giving spot, for their recreation and enjoyment. I afterwards
+visited the Museum, where there is a most interesting and valuable
+collection of animal, vegetable, and mineral curiosities, both ancient
+and modern. I also went over the Prison, and recorded in the visitors'
+book my favourable opinion of the arrangements made for the health and
+comfort of the prisoners. They appeared to me to be all that could
+reasonably be expected, or desired. I also went to see the Kafir school,
+carried on under the careful management of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. M----.
+
+I regretted that time did not permit of my visiting the celebrated
+Ostrich Farm of Mr. Arthur Douglass, at Heatherton Towers, about fifteen
+miles from Grahamstown. Mr. Douglass has the largest and most successful
+Ostrich Farm in the Colony, in addition to which he is the patentee of
+an egg hatching machine, or incubator, which is very much used in
+various parts of South Africa. The export of feathers has increased
+rapidly, and has become one of the chief exports of the Colony, as
+whilst in 1868 the quantity exported was valued at £70,000, in 1887 it
+had reached the value of £365,587. This is by no means the largest
+amount appearing under the head of exports during recent years, as in
+1882 the value of feathers exported was £1,093,989. It is estimated that
+during the past half-century the total weight of the feathers exported
+has been more than one thousand tons. The Cape Colony has, in fact, had
+a monopoly of the ostrich industry, but in 1884 several shipments of
+ostriches took place to South Australia, the Argentine Republic, and to
+California, and the Government of the Cape Colony, being alarmed, that
+the Colony was in danger of losing its lucrative monopoly, imposed an
+export tax of £100 on each ostrich, and £5 on each ostrich egg
+exported.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.
+
+
+On my return to Port Elizabeth, I spent another day or two there, and
+left on the evening of Monday, the 26th of August, by railway for Cape
+Town. This long journey of between eight hundred and nine hundred miles
+occupies nearly two days and two nights. It was the last I took in South
+Africa. The country, generally speaking, is very much of the same kind
+as that northward, over the Karoo, and in the southern part of the
+Transvaal. High land,--in the neighbourhood of Nieupoort 5,050 feet
+above the sea level,--flat, bare, and treeless. It is certainly a very
+desolate-looking country to travel over in winter. Nearing Cape Town,
+however, I ought not to omit to mention the Hex River Pass. The scenery
+here is certainly very grand, and is some of the best of its kind I have
+seen in South Africa. The railway, which winds through it by a
+succession of zigzags from a great height, is another of the many
+triumphs of engineering skill which are to be found in all parts of the
+world. The fine views of the Pass, when I traversed it, were heightened
+by the tops of the mountains being tinged with a wreath of snow. From
+Hex River the route to Cape Town lay through a rich and fertile valley,
+conveying ample proofs of the agricultural value and resources of this
+part of the Cape Colony. I arrived at Cape Town in the afternoon of the
+following Wednesday. Here I spent another pleasant week, seeing various
+friends.
+
+[Illustration: HEX RIVER PASS.]
+
+One of the last duties which devolved upon me before leaving South
+Africa--at the urgent invitation of some of my friends--was to deliver
+an address at Cape Town on Imperial Federation. This I did at the hall
+of the Young Men's Christian Society, to a large and attentive
+audience.[C]
+
+On the 4th of September I left Cape Town in the s.s. _Athenian_; and,
+after a pleasant and rapid voyage of eighteen days, touching only at
+Madeira on the way, I landed safely at Southampton on Sunday the 22nd.
+
+I have now given an account of the prominent features of my tour, during
+which, in the course of five months, I travelled about twelve thousand
+miles by sea, and four thousand by land.
+
+I proceed to touch as briefly as I can, on a few of the public
+questions, and other matters of interest which have arrested my
+attention while I was in South Africa.
+
+[Footnote C: See Appendix.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+CLIMATE.
+
+
+The climate of South Africa has already been so well, and exhaustively
+described, in the admirable and interesting paper, read at a meeting of
+the Royal Colonial Institute, on the 13th November, 1888, by Dr. Symes
+Thompson, that it seems superfluous for anyone to attempt to add
+anything to what such an eminent professional authority has said on the
+subject. But I cannot help remarking that, from my own personal
+experience, I can fully corroborate all he has said in its favour. The
+winter climate seems perfect. The atmosphere is so bright and clear, the
+air is so dry, and the sun is so agreeably warm in the day, although it
+is cold and frosty at night, that I think it must be as salubrious, as
+it has been to me most enjoyable. I found this the case everywhere,
+especially in the higher altitudes, and on the elevated veldt of the
+Transvaal. For myself, I never had an hour's illness during the whole
+winter I passed in South Africa; and this I attribute entirely to the
+purity of the air, and the dryness of the climate. One thing it is
+necessary to be cautious about, and I have an impression that it is not
+sufficiently attended to, and is consequently frequently the cause of
+illness, and injury. There is always a sudden great variation of the
+temperature immediately the sun goes down. To a sensitive person this is
+instantly perceptible. In the afternoon everyone ought to be very
+careful in guarding against this change; and should be provided with an
+extra garment to put on at sunset, in order to avoid a dangerous chill.
+I strongly advise, also, temperance in the use of alcoholic beverages,
+which, in my opinion, are far too freely consumed. I have noticed too
+much drinking among all classes. This cannot be necessary, or very
+conducive to the preservation of health, and the prolongation of life,
+in a climate like that of South Africa.
+
+It is to be earnestly hoped, that a good, and thoroughly efficient
+system of sanitary organisation may be speedily established in all the
+rapidly-growing towns throughout the country, especially in the
+Transvaal. Terrible neglect in this respect has been the cause of
+exceptional sickness, and great mortality in the past, for which the
+climate is not responsible. In order, too, to render the undoubted
+excellencies of the South African climate more attractive to invalids,
+who ought more largely to avail themselves of its advantages, it would
+be an excellent thing, as well as undoubtedly a paying speculation, if
+better hotels, fitted up in all respects with all modern European
+improvements, were established both at Cape Town, and at all the other
+principal towns up country, as well.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+THE NATIVE QUESTION.
+
+
+The native question is one of the most prominent and difficult ones to
+deal with in South Africa. The great preponderance of the native over
+the white races, and the different theories of treating them prevalent
+between the English and Dutch, render it one of the most perplexing
+problems to solve. The wisest and most experienced people, with whom I
+have communicated on the subject are of opinion that the natives are so
+far behind us in civilisation that they must be regarded as mere
+children. This means, however, that they are not to be treated harshly,
+but, on the contrary, with the utmost fairness and justice, and that
+they must be under the guidance of a controlling and firmly governing
+hand. They respect authority, when they have confidence in its being
+exercised with impartiality. They have a great deal of natural
+shrewdness, and they must never be deceived. Alas! I heard of frequent
+instances of this having been done, in times past, by those who have
+represented the British Government. Promises have been made to them
+which have been carelessly broken, and this means ruin to the prestige
+in their minds of the British name.
+
+From the wonderful and ever-increasing development which has taken place
+in the northern part of South Africa since the discovery of diamonds and
+gold, causing the employment of thousands upon thousands of native
+Kafirs at high wages, their social position is being materially changed.
+They are really becoming "masters of the situation." Their constant
+contact with white people is having the effect of introducing among them
+the germs of an incipient civilisation. The mode of treating them by the
+British and the Dutch is, undoubtedly, very different. A far harsher and
+more cruel method has been in vogue by the Dutch towards them, than
+would be tolerated by the British. But, from the cause to which I have
+alluded, the day has arrived when all this old system is sensibly
+changing; and the Draconian code of the Boers, from the force of
+circumstances, is becoming modified every day. I have made it my
+business to observe carefully all the signs of the times, on this native
+question during my tour. I have seen the Kafirs in thousands working in
+the mines at Kimberley, and Klerksdorp, and Johannesburg; I have
+observed them in multitudes employed in extensive building operations
+at Pretoria, and as labourers on the public works at Maritzburg and
+Durban, and at the other great shipping centres of Port Elizabeth and
+Cape Town; I have noticed them in their capacity of servants in private
+houses, and I frankly confess that no evidence has been brought before
+me to indicate, that they are harshly or unkindly treated. On the
+contrary, it appeared to me that they are receiving good wages, and are
+everywhere well cared for and comfortable. They are naturally a lively
+and a happy race, and I have seen them as cheerful and light-hearted in
+the town, as in their kraals on the wild and open veldt.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+RAILWAYS.
+
+
+I have already mentioned that, in my interview with the President, Paul
+Kruger, I told him that I was never in a country, which, in my opinion,
+required railways more than the Transvaal, and that I hoped to see the
+day when it would be penetrated by them in every direction. It is much
+to be regretted that there is so much jealous rivalry, inducing fierce
+contention, as to the precise direction, from the east, or south, or
+west, railroads should enter the Transvaal. I contend, that there is
+such a prospect of future enormous development in this wonderful centre
+of South Africa, that there is no need for all this rivalry, but that
+there is room for many lines in which all may participate and prosper,
+in the future. Political considerations have undoubtedly complicated a
+question, which I should wish to regard solely from its commercial
+aspect.
+
+Personally, I am anxious to see the line over the ground which I have
+myself treked, pushed on as speedily as possible, from Kimberley to
+Vryburg, and thence through British Bechuanaland to Mafeking, and so on,
+northwards, into the Matabele country, with branches eastward into the
+Transvaal. But I should like, also, to see the contemplated line
+constructed from Kimberley, through the Orange Free State, to
+Bloemfontein; and the Delagoa Bay Railway carried on to Pretoria, as
+well as the Natal line to Johannesburg; and, in fact, any other, whether
+through Swaziland, or elsewhere, which commercial enterprise may
+hereafter project. They will all have the effect of opening up the
+Transvaal--the El Dorado of South Africa--and meeting the demand for
+the transit of the enormous traffic, with which the old system of
+bullock wagons is utterly unable to grapple, and which, consequently, is
+so fearfully congested. The transport riders will have ample
+compensation, under the new system, in their increased employment in the
+conveyance of goods from the various stations to their actual
+destination. It was in this way the coach proprietors, without loss, and
+with great advantage to themselves, became the great and successful
+railway carriers, when stage coaches were superseded by railways in
+England.
+
+Since I arrived in England, Sir Gordon Sprigg, in an important speech
+delivered at Kimberley, referred to the question of railway extension
+from that town in the following words:--"With the South Atlantic Ocean
+for our base, we started with our railway, and then we came up to
+Kimberley. From this place we have only fifty or sixty miles to go
+over, and then we come to the border of this province, and of British
+Bechuanaland. Farther north, we get to that ill-defined sphere, called
+the sphere of influence, that extended the power of Britain in South
+Africa, as far as the Zambesi.... Now that we have our railway up to
+Kimberley, we have the British South African Company to take it in hand,
+and the object of the Government is to see that we have an extension
+line into these territories which will, in time to come, be recognised
+as portions of the Cape Colony. Gentlemen, I and my colleagues have come
+to the conclusion, that we cannot better advance the best interests of
+South Africa than by joining hand-in-hand to advance British interests
+westward of the Transvaal State, and right up to the Zambesi. Well,
+then, that being so, I may say, that the first object of the Company,
+in order to carry on their operations to the best purpose, is to
+construct a railway from Kimberley to Vryburg. The section from
+Kimberley to Warrenton has, of course, first to be undertaken, and from
+there on to Vryburg, as the second section. The Company are in
+possession of the requisite funds to carry out this great work; and
+there is no reason why it should not be accomplished before many month's
+are over. The Government of this country (Cape Colony) have come to the
+conclusion that it is desirable that this work should be carried out,
+and an arrangement has been made between the Government of this country
+and Mr. Rhodes as representing the British South African Company,
+whereby a railway starting from Kimberley up to Vryburg will be
+constructed by the British South African Company. Certain conditions
+have been entered into between the Company and the Government of this
+Colony, under which the Government of the Colony will have the right to
+take over the railway at any time they think proper, on certain
+conditions to be entered into by one side or the other. This railway
+extension is to be immediately proceeded with. You may take it as a
+moral certainty that you will be able to travel by railway up to
+Warrenton, some time in the course of next year. The Government have
+come to the conclusion that it is in the interests of South Africa that
+this work shall be carried on; that, in short, it would be highly
+injudicious to place any obstacles in the way of an undertaking which is
+calculated to have so beneficial an effect on the prospects of this part
+of Her Majesty's Empire." This Speech, coming from the Premier of the
+Cape Colony, requires no comment from me, beyond the expression of my
+satisfaction at its having been made.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+COLONISATION.
+
+
+Colonisation is a subject on which I wish to say a few words. The
+definition given by Adam Smith of the three elements of national wealth,
+"Land, Labour, and Capital," cannot be too often repeated. How to blend
+them in proper proportions, is a problem, which has puzzled generations
+of statesmen, philosophers, and philanthropists. I have always been a
+warm advocate for colonisation. It appears to me to be a question of
+such supreme national importance, that I think it ought to be undertaken
+by the State. This, of course, means, that it is possible, as it is
+undoubtedly indispensable, to get a Government to act wisely and well.
+In order to have a chance of its being successful, colonisation must be
+conducted on sound principles and practice.
+
+In South Africa I have seen millions of acres of fertile land--in
+Bechuanaland, in Natal, in the Eastern and Western provinces of the Cape
+Colony, to say nothing of the Transvaal--capable of supporting many
+thousands of our surplus population. But I have also satisfied myself,
+that it is no use whatever to transplant those, who are unfitted for it.
+Instead of a success, certain failure will be the result of an attempt
+so unwise. Colonial life is alone suitable for the enterprising,
+energetic, steady, and industrious men, and women, who are determined,
+with patience and courage, to overcome the difficulties and trials,
+which they must certainly encounter on the road to ultimate success.
+South Africa is a land of promise for them. It is by no means so for
+the feeble, the self-indulgent, the helplessly dependent class, of whom,
+unfortunately, we have so large a number in the over-populated Old
+Country. Cordial co-operation with the self-governing colonies is also
+absolutely indispensable to ensure success in any national system of
+colonisation. It is equally essential that a strict selection of the
+right sort of people should be made. According, too, to their positions
+in life, they must be provided with sufficient means to support them on
+their first arrival, while they are settling themselves, and their crops
+are growing, and they are acquiring knowledge, of the natural conditions
+of the new land, to which they have been transplanted.
+
+These are the principles necessary to be observed in any national system
+of colonisation. They apply to all the other British Colonies, equally
+with South Africa, in order to prevent failure, and command success.
+
+While speaking of this subject, I should like to mention a suggestion
+for a system of special colonisation, which may well attract the serious
+attention of the Home Government, with the view of encouraging and
+promoting it.
+
+In the military garrisons, comprising the British troops, quartered in
+South Africa, there are a considerable number of steady, and
+well-conducted married men, non-commissioned officers and soldiers, who,
+having been stationed for some time in the midst of its genial climate,
+and pleasant surroundings, would, I feel satisfied, like, if sufficient
+inducement were offered them, to make South Africa their permanent home.
+If, therefore, a military colony were established at the expense of the
+Home Government in a well and wisely-selected spot and under proper and
+judicious arrangement, it would probably be, not only a great boon to a
+number of deserving British subjects, but would be attended with
+success, and be a politic, and interesting factor in the art of
+colonisation.
+
+I earnestly commend the idea to those, who would have to deal with it,
+as an experiment, eminently worthy of their attention and support.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+THE POLITICAL SITUATION.
+
+
+The political situation of South Africa is the last subject to which I
+shall refer. I am quite aware that this is a very difficult and delicate
+question to touch upon, but it would be impossible for anyone like
+myself, to whom it has presented itself so prominently during my tour,
+to avoid some allusion to it. I shall endeavour to state my impressions
+impartially and fairly.
+
+Before I went to South Africa I had formed a general opinion on this
+vitally important and very critical subject. My previous views have been
+most thoroughly confirmed, and painfully accentuated by all I have
+seen, and heard, and gathered, on the spot. The mournful mismanagement
+of South African affairs during the last twenty-five years, and most
+especially during the last decade, has been truly lamentable, and cannot
+fail to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton,
+and true-hearted patriot.
+
+The absence of continuous, wise, and statesmanlike policy, which has for
+the most part marked the tone of those, who have had the Imperial
+guidance and control of South African affairs in the past, has had the
+effect of sowing the seeds of enmity to the Government of the Mother
+Country, which it will require all the wisdom, and tact, and
+conciliatory sympathy possible to be displayed in the future, in dealing
+with this magnificent part of the Empire, to allay. It will demand the
+greatest skill to prevent the permanent alienation, and estrangement of
+South Africa from Great Britain.
+
+This has all been brought about by our unaccountably careless and
+culpable want of accurate knowledge at home, of the actual situation. We
+lost a splendid chance of consolidating South Africa in a homogeneous
+union under the British crown. Our insular in difference, our ignorance,
+the fierce animosity of our party political prejudices, made us neglect
+the opportunity. It has had the effect of creating the sorest feelings
+against us, on the part of the large English population, spread over the
+land, which is uncontaminated and uninfluenced by the party spirit of
+local colonial politicians. It is melancholy, and most deplorable to
+observe the indications of this feeling, which are constantly apparent.
+The old love for the British flag is still widely cherished; but it was
+impossible for me to shut my eyes to the evidence so continually
+brought before me, that the British Government is neither loved nor
+respected. No confidence whatever is felt in it--and no wonder!
+Everywhere there are proofs of how all have been allowed to suffer and
+smart under it.
+
+Either from ignorance, or carelessness, or indifference--probably from
+all combined--and perhaps even unconsciously, but at the same time as
+surely, we have deceived the Natives, the Boers, and the Colonists. This
+is only the natural consequence of the feeble, vacillating, uncertain
+course, which is followed, when the State machine is guided without
+compass, and where there is no firmness, nor courage at the national
+helm. What we have to do, however, now, is to advocate union and
+co-operation between the two dominant races--the British and the
+Dutch--and to do all we can to promote harmony and goodwill between
+them. True, their mental character, and natural instincts are
+different. Our own race is essentially energetic and progressive; while
+theirs is slow, unemotional, and phlegmatic. But if sympathy, and tact,
+and cordial good temper, are invariably practised in our intercourse
+with them, I am persuaded it will ultimately have the effect of
+promoting co-operation in securing their mutual interests. This, I
+trust, will ultimately neutralise the effect of the fatal course of past
+political action, which unnecessarily developed race jealousies, and
+stimulated national friction and animosity; and will bring about in the
+future, a blending of the Dutch in friendly union and fellowship with
+the British, such as has been undreamed of in the past.
+
+Among many expressions of opinion on the subject of the political
+situation made to me while I was in South Africa, I received the
+following communication from a gentleman of prominent position in one
+of the principal towns of the Cape Colony. It appears to me of such
+importance that I avail myself of this opportunity of giving publicity
+to it.
+
+     "The fact of your arrival at very short notice, combined with the
+     fact that there are only a few Fellows of the Royal Colonial
+     Institute resident here, will probably prevent the presentation of
+     any formal address of welcome to you.
+
+     "Nevertheless, to a section of the community which is animated by
+     patriotic jealousy for the rights and dignity of the Crown
+     throughout South Africa, your visit is regarded with feelings of
+     genuine satisfaction, and our hopes are encouraged, that your visit
+     may result in some good to the cause, which we have at heart.
+
+     "You are doubtless acquainted well enough with the principal events
+     of great national moment of recent years in South Africa. From
+     whatever point of view politicians may like to regard the end of
+     the Transvaal war, any resident in this country can be only too
+     well aware of the fact that one result of that terrible experience
+     has been, a material weakening of respect for English people, and
+     for the rights of the Crown throughout the Cape Colony.
+
+     "Since the period referred to, a very powerful Dutch-Africander
+     combination has come into existence, and there can be no doubt but
+     that one object of such a body, is the severance of all but nominal
+     ties between the Cape, and Great Britain.
+
+     "However visionary such hopes as these must for a long series of
+     years remain, the fact of their existence, and of their being in a
+     variety of ways advanced from time to time, has a very marked
+     influence upon all classes of people in this country.
+
+     "For instance, the youth of the country are influenced to hope for
+     a time, when they shall be members of an independent State; and
+     while on the one hand they may not see any immediate prospect of a
+     change in such a direction being effected, nevertheless they lessen
+     their interest in, and their respect for, the Crown of England and
+     its attributes, and thus grow up comparatively devoid of any sound
+     patriotism, even to their native country; and, above all, without
+     any touch of that enthusiasm, which is ever engendered by high
+     national traditions.
+
+     "That some momentous changes are likely to occur in South Africa,
+     and that possibly, before very long, all are agreed. The question
+     only remains in what direction will these changes tend?--towards
+     some Foreign Continental Power, towards a Confederation with the
+     existing Dutch Republics, or in the direction of a strengthening
+     of the union with England?
+
+     "It is sometimes surmised, and this not merely by extreme men, but
+     by quiet and experienced observers of events in this country, that
+     the large population, mainly British, which has been attracted to
+     the Gold Fields of the Transvaal, is unlikely to endure much longer
+     the systematic misgovernment and suppression, to which they are
+     subjected by men of avowedly anti-English sympathies, and pledged
+     to a policy directed to check British progress by all means.
+
+     "What form the suggested revolt in the Transvaal may take is not
+     likely to be revealed, until some overt step towards its execution
+     has been taken. We would all desire that the end in view should be
+     secured by peaceful means, and that the Transvaal should become a
+     part and parcel of British territory.
+
+     "To effect a revival of loyalty to England in the Cape Colony, and
+     to influence the destinies of other States in the direction of
+     union with England, should surely be the hope and endeavour of all
+     true Englishmen, whether in this Colony, or elsewhere.
+
+     "And the end in view is not an easy one to attain in a country,
+     where the majority of Europeans consider that they, or their
+     compatriots, inflicted disgrace, and a permanent loss of influence
+     upon the Imperial Troops on the one hand, and the Imperial British
+     Government on the other.
+
+     "The application of any remedy seems to lie more with the Sovereign
+     personally, or Her Majesty's immediate advisers in England, than
+     with any Governor, and High Commissioner, or Cabinet of Cape
+     Ministers.
+
+     "For _quâ_ Governor, the Queen's Representative at the Cape, is
+     necessarily checked, or controlled by the Ministry of the day, his
+     Constitutional advisers, and the presence in the Cape Parliament of
+     a dominant force of the essentially non-English, or Africander
+     party, must necessarily also have a very material influence upon
+     Ministers, who depend upon a majority of votes for the retention of
+     their office.
+
+     "In short, the problem in the Cape Colony is one, which happily
+     does not exist in either of the other great dependencies of the
+     Crown; it is altogether peculiar to South Africa, of which, after
+     all, England acquired possession by conquest, and, having acquired
+     it, has never completely won the adhesion of the Dutch inhabitants,
+     who resent such acts of Government as the abolition of slavery, the
+     introduction of the English principle of equality before the law,
+     and, above all, an unsettled vacillating policy, which last has the
+     worst possible effect upon all the nationalities, European, as
+     well as native, throughout South Africa.
+
+     "The present attitude of even British South Africa, is one, not of
+     expectancy, but of slight hope, mingled with distrust, and after
+     such conspicuous events as the dismemberment of Zululand, the
+     retrocession of the Transvaal, in addition to the ineffective
+     efforts towards confederation, he would be a bold man who, as an
+     Englishman, would dare assert either that his country protected her
+     children, or her dependent races, or that there is any settled
+     British policy in the very Continent, where vigour, firmness, and
+     consistency, combined with mere justice, seem to be absolutely
+     essential.
+
+     "South Africa has yet to be won over to England, or, in other
+     words, confidence has to be restored. The effort is surely worth
+     making, and anything like a determined effort on the part of the
+     Sovereign, and Her Majesty's immediate advisers would find a most
+     vigorous and cordial response.
+
+     "The idea of confederation seems to be quite dependent upon such
+     preliminaries, as mutual confidence, and a measure of common
+     necessity, in order to such a question being seriously entertained.
+
+     "The Colonial Conference of two years ago, seems however to have
+     paved the way for effective development in the direction of
+     confederation.
+
+     "For it must be remembered, that the somewhat complex British
+     constitution is not the creation of any one Monarch, or Parliament.
+     It has grown to its present dimensions little by little, influenced
+     always by the necessities of particular cases. The House of Peers
+     has ever been summoned by writ, and early precedents indicate, that
+     the Sovereign was not always limited to a particular class of
+     Barons, who alone could be invited to the deliberations of the
+     nation.
+
+     "Although it is not admitted, it is nevertheless the fact, that, at
+     the present time, all who are most anxiously desirous of seeing a
+     way to establish a means of drawing together, in Council, the
+     Colonies and the Mother Country, are quite disagreed, as to what is
+     the best means to this end.
+
+     "A formal confederation is desired, but all are agreed upon the
+     difficulties which, for the present, at any rate, stand in the way
+     of completing an exactly defined treaty, or definition, to
+     confederate as between the Mother Country, and the Colonies.
+
+     "Perhaps a means to this much-desired end may be discovered, by way
+     of less formal, but almost equally effective, courses of policy as
+     regards Colonial possessions.
+
+     "Every one feels the difficulty in the way of summoning Colonial
+     Representatives to either the House of Lords or the House of
+     Commons, for, while special provision would be required to increase
+     the numbers of the House of Commons, there are apparent and real
+     obstacles in the way of inviting Colonial Representatives to sit in
+     the House of Lords, either as ordinary, or as _Life_ Peers.
+
+     "It does not seem too much to hope that, before long, the Crown,
+     may desire to see assembled in London, during some period of the
+     annual session of the Imperial Parliament a Council of Colonial
+     Delegates, meeting in a place to be assigned to them, who will have
+     no voice in other than Colonial Policy, just as now, the House of
+     Lords has no voice in the originating of Money Bills, who will be
+     free to discuss any measure affecting Colonial Policy in general,
+     or the affairs of any Colony, in particular, who will be entitled
+     to forward their conclusions, requests, or opinions to Her
+     Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, and who
+     will constitute a most effective means for ascertaining the current
+     of opinion in any particular Colony for the time being.
+
+     "The Houses of Convocation might be referred to as an example of an
+     extra Parliamentary Body of recognised position in the
+     deliberations of the State.
+
+     "And, to revert to South Africa, the sympathies, and probably loyal
+     adhesion of all the intelligent classes of every nationality, would
+     be elicited by nothing more than by the express personal interest
+     of the Sovereign, and Her family in the Cape Colony. The occasion
+     of the visit of Prince Alfred, when a mere child, elicited
+     unbounded demonstrations of enthusiastic loyalty to the Crown, and
+     those from Dutch and English alike. The name 'Alfred,' in honour
+     of His Royal Highness, is to be everywhere met with in connection
+     with all sorts of public bodies, Volunteer Corps, and other
+     Institutions.
+
+     "Personal influence goes for more than all the defined policies of
+     successive administrations, or excellent theories of Government. A
+     Prince is of more weight than the best of official Governors, and
+     it is not likely that in medieval ages, or even at later periods,
+     such an appanage of the Crown, as we desire South Africa to become,
+     would be unvisited by either the Sovereign, or someone of the
+     Sovereign's family. The visit of their Royal Highnesses Prince
+     Albert Victor, and Prince George of Wales was limited to a brief
+     sojourn at Cape Town, and did not extend to the Colony in general.
+
+     "The necessity for the employment, in the interests of the Empire,
+     to use the phrase most practical,--uncouth, however, it may
+     seem,--of our Royal Princes appears to be a very decided and
+     certain means to the end we have in view, namely, the binding
+     together, by means of sympathetic enthusiasm, the Colonies to the
+     Mother Country, but most particularly the creating of a healthy
+     common accord between South Africa and Great Britain.
+
+     "Let any Colony or Dependency feel assured that it is regarded as
+     worthy of attention by those nearest to the Crown, and any sense of
+     isolation, any suspicion that the people, or their country are
+     regarded with any measure of contemptuous indifference must
+     forthwith vanish. Sympathy, encouragement, personal contact, seem
+     to be essential elements to the solution of what is admittedly a
+     problem."
+
+I regard this letter of my well informed correspondent as a most
+interesting and truthful expression of wide-spread opinion, among the
+intelligent classes of Her Majesty's loyal subjects in South Africa.
+
+I do not believe the South African political problem to be insoluble.
+Two things are required to solve it satisfactorily. For the present,--I
+quote the eloquent words of a distinguished politician with whose wise
+and noble sentiments I cordially agree--"what we ought to do in a case
+of this kind is to send out a statesman of the first order of talent,
+patience, and truthfulness, irrespective of politics or prejudice. For
+it is an Imperial problem of the highest importance; and the powers of
+true patriotism and ambition should be amply gratified in dealing with
+it."
+
+And for the future, let me add my own earnest conviction, that what is
+wanted is Imperial Federation, as the goal to be ultimately reached, to
+render South Africa politically satisfied and content.
+
+Imperial Federation means a constitutional system, under which she would
+be no longer misruled and misunderstood, by a Government, in which she
+has no share, in which she places no confidence, and by whom her wants
+and wishes are often ignored. It is not, as is frequently untruly
+asserted by writers, and speakers, who have neither studied,
+comprehended, nor understood its theory and intention, its end and aim,
+that it means the subjugation of the independence of the Colonies to the
+control of the Mother Country.
+
+As one of its most earnest advocates, I emphatically protest against all
+such erroneous interpretations, as a libel on the principle put forward,
+as a plan for the National Government. On the contrary, the project of
+Imperial Federation, without any _arriere pensée_, clearly and
+distinctly involves the condition, that the Colonies themselves are to
+take their adequate part, and share with the Mother Country in its
+future concrete constitution. In the brief, but expressive phrase, I
+have already publicly adopted, Imperial Federation means, "the
+Government of the Empire by the Empire." In Imperial Federation,
+therefore, South Africa would be fairly and influentially represented,
+along with the other Colonies of Great Britain. In union with them she
+would take her part in guiding the policy, and directing the destinies
+of the whole British Empire.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+APPENDIX I.
+
+
+The following discussion took place on the paper read by Sir Frederick
+Young, on South Africa, at the opening meeting of the Session of the
+Royal Colonial Institute, on November 12th, at which the Marquis of Lome
+presided:--
+
+     PROFESSOR H.G. SEELEY: In common with you all, I have listened with
+     great pleasure to this interesting and wide-reaching address. I
+     have not myself been so far afield. My observations were limited to
+     Cape Colony; and the things which I saw in that Colony were
+     necessarily, to a large extent, different from those recorded by
+     Sir Frederick Young. On landing at Cape Town I naturally turned to
+     what the people of South Africa were doing for themselves, and
+     confess I was amazed when I saw the great docks, by means of which
+     the commerce of South Africa is being encouraged, and by which it
+     will hereafter be developed. I was impressed, too, with the
+     educational institutions, the great Public Library, worthy of any
+     town, the South African Museum, the South African College, and the
+     various efforts made to bring the newest and best knowledge home to
+     the people. But perhaps in Cape Town, the thing which impressed me
+     as most curious was the new dock, in process of construction by
+     excavating stone for the breakwater and other purposes. This work
+     was carried on by coloured convict labour. The convicts thus become
+     trained in useful manual work, as well as in habits of obedience,
+     and when they are discharged, are not only better men, but people
+     in whose work employers of labour have confidence. I learned that
+     the great public mountain roads in Cape Colony have thus been
+     constructed by convict labour, at a comparatively small cost, while
+     the convict acquires skill and useful training. Going up country,
+     my attention, among other matters, was turned to the distribution
+     of mineral wealth and difficulties of water supply, for, as Sir
+     Frederick Young has remarked, the water supply is one of the great
+     problems which all persons have to consider in South Africa. The
+     season during which rain falls is short, and the rain drains
+     rapidly down comparatively steep inclined surfaces, so that science
+     of many kinds has to be enlisted to conserve the water, and turn
+     the supply to account. I found the rocks of much of the country
+     have been curiously compressed and hardened and thrown into
+     parallel irregular folds, and that these rocks were afterwards worn
+     down by the action of water, at a time when the land was still
+     beneath the ocean, with the result that many basin-shaped
+     depressions are preserved and exposed, each of which holds a
+     certain amount of water. Just as we never dream of putting down a
+     well in this country without knowing the positions of the
+     water-bearing strata, so it is hopeless to bore profitably for
+     water in the Colony till the districts are defined over which the
+     water-bearing basins are spread. Nothing arrests the escape of
+     water in its course through the rocks more efficiently than
+     intrusive sheets of igneous rock which rise to the surface, but
+     until the distribution of these dykes is systematically recorded it
+     will not be possible to open out all the water which is preserved
+     underground. There is no doubt that by utilising geological facts
+     of this nature, a better water supply may be obtained, which will
+     enable more land to be brought under cultivation, and larger crops
+     to be raised. I may say that the Colonial Government is fully aware
+     of the importance of following out such lines of work, and steps
+     are being taken to give effect to such exploration. Vegetation,
+     however, by its radiating power, must always be one of the chief
+     aids to improved water supply. In the matter of mineral wealth,
+     Cape Colony is not so rich as some adjacent lands. It contains
+     coal, but the individual beds of coal are thin, and owing to this
+     thinness the coal necessarily alternates with shale, which is more
+     conspicuous than in the coal fields of Britain. I remember that
+     Professor Sedgwick, my old master in geology, told me that in his
+     youth seams of coal only some four to six inches thick were worked
+     on the sides of hills in Yorkshire, and that the coal was carried
+     on horseback over the country to supply the wants of the mountain
+     population. Cape Colony is in a far better state than that. In the
+     Eastern Province the beds of coal are frequently a foot or two or
+     more in thickness. They crop out on the surface with a slight dip
+     near to the railway, and although only worked at present in a few
+     pits (as at Cyphergat, Fairview, Molteno--I did not visit the
+     Indwe)--the coal-bearing rocks certainly extend over a much wider
+     area of country than that which has been explored. One of the happy
+     results at which I arrived in my short visit to this district was
+     to find that there are certain extinct forms of reptilian life
+     associated with these coal beds, by means of which the geological
+     horizon upon which the coal occurs may be traced through the
+     country; so that there is a prospect of this mineral being followed
+     along its outcrop in the Eastern Province with comparative ease by
+     this means. It is desirable on all accounts that coal should be
+     burned rather than timber, since the destruction of wood is harmful
+     to the supply of water. With regard to the gold of Cape Colony, I
+     have not the requisite knowledge to speak with the same confidence.
+     The quantity in any district is probably small: the amount is great
+     in the aggregate, but very widely diffused. Gold appears to be
+     present in small amounts in almost all the volcanic rocks, so that
+     as those rocks decay and new mineral substances are formed out of
+     the decomposed products, the gold which they contained is often
+     preserved and concentrated in thin and narrow veins of zeolitic
+     minerals, which extend over the surface of these volcanic rocks. To
+     what extent these zeolites may be hereafter worked with profit it
+     is impossible at present to say, for much may depend upon water
+     supply, by means of which the ore would be crushed and washed, and
+     much on the varying quantities of gold present in samples from
+     different localities. On the whole, the utilisation of science in
+     the service of man, especially in relation to metals, coal, and
+     water supply, if systematically carried out, will, I believe, be an
+     element of future prosperity to Cape Colony, and enable the Colony
+     to minister to the welfare of adjacent lands.
+
+     Mr. J.X. MERRIMAN: I am sure South Africans are very grateful
+     indeed to the amiable and kindly critic in the person of Sir
+     Frederick Young. It is no new thing to Colonists to owe him a debt.
+     All those present will acknowledge the great things he has done for
+     the Colonies in connection with the Royal Colonial Institute. Sir
+     Frederick Young is a man who has been content to look after small
+     things, and the result is this Institute has been worked up by the
+     individual efforts of Colonists and others to its present
+     flourishing condition. I hope the Institute will long flourish,
+     and never be absorbed by anything under more magnificent
+     auspices--in other words, that you will "paddle your own canoe." It
+     is good sometimes to have a plain statement from a plain man. South
+     Africa suffers under a plague of experts who, after spending a few
+     weeks there, tell us exactly what we ought to do; and we don't like
+     it. I wish I could speak to you as a sort of amiable critic, but I
+     have the misfortune to belong to that much-despised class the local
+     politician, and I notice that, when anybody says anything about the
+     Colonies in England, all unite in kicking the local politician. In
+     order not to sail under false colours, I state frankly that I
+     belong to that class. Of course, South Africa is creating a deal of
+     interest at the present time. People who come to fortunes usually
+     do excite a great deal of interest among relations who may in times
+     gone by have given them the cold shoulder. There can be no doubt as
+     to the material prosperity of South Africa at the present time, and
+     still less doubt as to the future. The gold fields of Witwatersrand
+     are unique in the world. This is not my own statement, but the
+     statement of eminent mining engineers from America. For thirty
+     miles and more you have a continuous stretch of reef, which gives
+     throughout a uniform yield per ton, and which has been proved to
+     the depth of some hundred feet, and may--there is every reason to
+     believe--go to unknown depths. The reefs are now being worked in
+     the most economical manner. When proper appliances for mining are
+     used, and when we get the stock-jobbers off our backs, I believe a
+     career of prosperity will open of which few people dream. From
+     another point of view, to those who love the country and make their
+     home there, there cannot but be a seamy side to the picture. Great
+     wealth brings other things in its train. It has brought into South
+     Africa a great spirit of gambling. People neglect the honest
+     industries of the country: they leave their farm work, and rush off
+     to make fortunes in a minute. Everybody--from the king to the
+     beggar--is gambling in gold shares. Everybody neglects his
+     business, and talks about nothing else. I ask whether this is a
+     wholesome state of society? Is it not a state of society to which
+     we may look with some degree of apprehension? I believe myself that
+     things will work round, but, undoubtedly, the state of affairs is
+     serious. After all, there is something which goes to build up a
+     country besides material wealth, and I am not sure that gambling in
+     gold shares is exactly the thing which is wanted. Of course, there
+     have been other countries where these vast increases of material
+     wealth have occurred--California and Australia--but there the
+     conditions were different. They were new countries, which attracted
+     large numbers of white men, and, when they found the gold fields
+     did not pay, they made homes for themselves on the land.
+     Unfortunately, that state of affairs does not exist at the present
+     time in South Africa, and that brings us face to face with the
+     great problem on which Sir Frederick Young has touched--the great
+     problem which we have always before us--viz., how two races utterly
+     alien to each other, the black and the white, are to live and
+     increase side by side. South Africa is the only country in the
+     world where that problem exists, excepting the Southern States of
+     North America. This is a great question, on which the future of
+     South Africa depends. Unfortunately, the white men do not work in a
+     country where the black race flourishes. If the white man does not
+     become a "boss," he sinks to the level of a mean white man. The
+     difficulty is to get a state of society in which the white race
+     shall flourish side by side with the black; and when people talk
+     about the "local politicians," the "average Cape politician," and
+     the like, they should remember we have to deal with this enormous
+     problem--that we are anxious to do justice to the "black," and at
+     the same time we are naturally anxious to see the European
+     population flourish. I believe the gold fields will attract a
+     large European population. The wages are enormous. There are 20,000
+     black men, without a stitch upon them, earning as much as eighteen
+     shillings a week a-piece, and getting as much food as they can eat,
+     in the mines of Johannesburg. People talk about the treatment of
+     the blacks. Nobody dares to treat them badly, because they would
+     run away. There is a competition for them, and the black man has an
+     uncommonly rosy time of it. The white men naturally won't work
+     under the same conditions as the blacks. I saw a letter from an
+     operative cautioning his fellow artisans against going out. He
+     says, "We get thirty shillings a day, but it is a dreadful place to
+     live in." I ask the operatives in England to mistrust that
+     statement. ("What is the cost of living?") You can live at the club
+     very well indeed for £10 a month--the club, mind you, where the
+     aristocracy live. It is idle to tell me the honest artisan cannot
+     live. In addition to the black and white population, there is
+     another problem, and that is, the influx of Arabs, who creep down
+     the East Coast through the door of Natal. They are gradually
+     ousting the English retail trader. You may go to up-country towns,
+     and in whole streets you will see these yellow fellows, sitting
+     there in their muslin dresses, where formerly there were English
+     traders. In places where we want to cultivate the English
+     population, that is a very serious thing. Our yellow friends come
+     under the garb of British subjects from Bombay, and are making
+     nests in the Transvaal and elsewhere by ousting the English retail
+     trader. Sir Frederick Young has alluded to State colonisation. I am
+     sorry to differ from so amiable a critic of our ways, but, as one
+     who has had a little experience, I can tell him that you may send
+     Colonists out, but you cannot as easily make them stay there. If
+     they make their fortunes, they come home to England to spend them.
+     If they are poor, and bad times come, the black man crowds them
+     out, and off they go to Australia. You can depend on a German
+     peasant settling, but bring an Englishman or a Scotchman, and he
+     wants to better himself. In that he is quite right, but he does not
+     see his way on a small plot of ground, and off he goes down a mine,
+     or something of that sort. There are great difficulties in the way
+     of State-aided emigration. We do not want the riff-raff; we don't
+     want the "surplus population." It is one of the greatest
+     difficulties to get decent, steady Englishmen to settle on the
+     land. It is the people who settle on the land who make a country,
+     and if Sir Frederick Young can give us a receipt for making English
+     people settle there he will confer one of the greatest possible
+     benefits on South Africa. Sir Frederick Young departed from the
+     usual custom on such occasions by touching on politics. I am glad
+     he did, because more interest is given to the discussion, and there
+     is nothing like good, healthy controversy. Sir Frederick Young is
+     greatly concerned that there should be a settled policy for South
+     Africa. All I can say is, in Heaven's name, don't listen to a syren
+     voice of that kind. So surely as you have a settled policy--some
+     great and grand scheme--so surely will follow disaster and
+     disgrace. The people of South Africa may be very stupid, but they
+     are very much like other people--determined to make their policy
+     themselves, and the policy of South Africa is not going to be
+     framed in Downing Street. I cannot help thinking Sir Frederick
+     Young did injustice to some of my friends who have been at the head
+     of affairs. "The mournful mismanagement of South African affairs,"
+     he says, "during the last twenty-five years, and most especially
+     during the last decade, has been truly lamentable, and cannot fail
+     to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton
+     and true-hearted patriot." But have affairs been mismanaged for the
+     last twenty-five years? The revenue twenty-five years ago was
+     £500,000. It is now nearly £4,000,000. For twenty-five years, under
+     the beneficent rule of Downing Street, we had not a mile of
+     railway. Now we have 2,000 miles. Twenty-five years ago there was
+     no national feeling at all. Now there is a strong South African
+     feeling, which is destined to grow and build up a South African
+     policy. As to the talk about a settled and firm policy, Sir Philip
+     Wodehouse was the last Governor who had a grand scheme from Downing
+     Street. A more honest, conscientious, and able man did not exist;
+     but his policy was a failure. Then came my friend Sir Henry Barkly.
+     His policy was distinctly opposite. It was a true policy for South
+     Africa. It was a policy of _laissez-faire_. The result was, things
+     went on as merrily as a marriage bell, Dutch and English drew
+     together, the natives were quiet, South Africa was prosperous, and
+     everything went on as happily as possible till Mr. Froude and Lord
+     Carnarvon hit on the grand scheme of uniting South Africa. From
+     that day our misfortunes began. One of the most able, courteous,
+     and high-minded gentlemen in the British service--Sir Bartle
+     Frere--was sent to carry out this firm policy. What was the result?
+     Failure. I will say nothing more about it. Then Sir Hercules
+     Robinson reverted to the _laissez-faire_ policy. South Africa was
+     under a shade--nobody would look at us. But now we are gradually
+     righting ourselves, and getting into a prosperous condition. Now
+     are being raised again the cries for a grand policy. I caution you
+     against them. Let us manage our own affairs. _Laissez faire,
+     laissez aller_--that is our policy for South Africa. There are no
+     nostrums required. The one thing required is the gradual bringing
+     of the Dutch and English together. There are no two races more
+     fitted to unite. You know how like they are to Englishmen. The Boer
+     is as like the English farmer as possible. There are no people more
+     fond of manly sports than the Dutch; they enter into them
+     heartily, and in the cricket and football fields they are among the
+     best players. They are as fond of riding and shooting as Englishmen
+     are. In fact, the Dutch and the English are as like as Heaven can
+     make them, and the only thing that keeps them apart is man's
+     prejudice. The one thing to do is to bring them together. How can
+     you help that end? Not by girding at them, and writing against Boer
+     ways, but by recognising the fact that they have been pioneers in
+     South Africa, and that they are the only people who will settle on
+     the land. I see there is a great agitation about Swaziland, which
+     is entirely surrounded by the Transvaal Republic. ("No.") Well,
+     except as to Tongaland, and I am not going to say anything about
+     that. The cry is got up, "Don't hand it over to the Boers." In
+     whose interest is that cry got up? It is in the interest of a few
+     speculators, and not in the interest of the capitalists, who have
+     £108,000,000 invested in the Transvaal, and yet are not afraid to
+     trust the Boers with Swaziland. This girding at the Dutch is
+     resented, and does incalculable harm. People at home have very
+     little idea how much influence public opinion in England has in
+     South Africa. Sir Frederick Young has alluded to President Kruger,
+     who won't put down prize fights because he might be thought to be
+     oppressing the Englishman! All I ask is, don't let your talk about
+     union with the Dutch be mere lip service. Trust them; work hand in
+     hand with them. Unless you do you will make little progress in
+     South Africa. By that I mean political progress. The material
+     progress of South Africa is now secured; therefore my advice
+     is--cultivate the Dutch, because, unless they are our friends, we
+     shall be a divided people, and our black and yellow brethren will
+     get the best of us. Our true policy is, _Laissez faire, laissez
+     aller_.
+
+     Sir G. BADEN-POWELL, K.C.M.G., M.P.: My friend, Mr. Merriman, has
+     made a speech of the utmost value to South Africa, and it is a
+     very fitting, I will not say reply, but comment, on the address to
+     which we have listened with such pleasure; but Mr. Merriman, with
+     his strong arguments and apt illustrations, came at the end to the
+     conclusion at which Sir Frederick Young had arrived. I have not
+     much to add, but I think we have heard from Sir Frederick Young a
+     view of South African affairs on the political side which, I may
+     tell you frankly, differs diametrically from my own. I have heard
+     from Mr. Merriman a view of affairs in which I cordially concur,
+     but from neither have I heard of that third aspect which, I think,
+     is necessary to complete the view. Sir Frederick Young has told us
+     that for twenty-five years, certainly during the last ten years,
+     South Africa has been mismanaged. I must confess I was sorry to
+     hear the strong language he used, because one cannot but remember
+     that for the greater part of the last twenty years most of the
+     affairs of South Africa have been in the hands of free
+     self-governing communities. Cape Colony has been under Responsible
+     Government since 1873, and the Free State and the Transvaal have
+     always been self-governing. I agree with Mr. Merriman that for the
+     last twenty-five years affairs in South Africa have progressed,
+     with one signal and fatal exception, and that was the policy under
+     which we took over and then gave back the Transvaal. Omitting that,
+     I think we have but little to be sorry for in the history of South
+     Africa. There have been troubles, but I, for one, think that all
+     difficulties, would have been avoided if the phrase "Imperial aid"
+     had been substituted for that of "Imperial interference" in the
+     affairs of South Africa. It is the aid which has been given by the
+     Mother Country which has resulted in developing the material
+     resources, and, above all, in establishing the security from native
+     attack of various European States in South Africa. Sir Frederick
+     Young spoke of the attitude towards the Imperial Government. I
+     could wish he had been in Cape Town on the day Sir Charles Warren
+     landed, and seen the ovation he received from all classes. Let me
+     add this--that the Bechuanaland expedition, which was led by Sir
+     Charles Warren, and in which I had the good fortune to take part,
+     cost the Mother Country perhaps £1,500,000, but in the discussions
+     in Parliament or in the press as to the future of Bechuanaland, the
+     fact is seldom mentioned that Bechuanaland was acquired for the
+     Empire at the cost of the British taxpayer. Let me remind you of
+     another fact, which the Cape Colonist well knows--that when the
+     Imperial Government wished, from wise motives of economy, to extend
+     the Cape system of railways to Kimberley, at a time when the Cape
+     Ministers were not prepared to carry out the extension, the British
+     Parliament advanced a loan of £400,000, at a low rate of interest,
+     for that object. Another instance I could quote, in connection with
+     the history of that interesting native territory--Basutoland. You
+     remember how that country was handed over to the Cape Colonists,
+     and that for various reasons the management of the Basutos got
+     beyond their power, the result being that the Imperial Government
+     went to the aid of the Cape Colony and took back Basutoland. I
+     mention these cases because they illustrate an aspect of affairs
+     which is, I think, apt to be neglected. We at home--and certainly
+     those who have enjoyed the kind hospitality of their brethren in
+     South Africa--wish to do all we can to aid our fellow-countrymen in
+     that part of the globe. We do not wish to interfere, and I should
+     like to see this put forward as the grand and final policy of South
+     Africa--that we are ready to aid that portion of the Empire, but
+     set our faces against interference. In conclusion, I will add that
+     I am sure all of us congratulate Sir Frederick Young on having so
+     successfully accomplished his arduous journey, returning to us, as
+     he does, in better health than when he left. If you wish to renew
+     your youth, and grow younger instead of older, follow his
+     example--make a trip through South Africa, sleeping in the open
+     veldt.
+
+     Dr. SYMES THOMPSON: Another year's experience has confirmed and
+     strengthened my conclusions as to the remarkable salubrity of the
+     South African climate in cases of chest disease and of nerve wear,
+     which I laid before the Royal Colonial Institute in November last.
+     While regarding the neighbourhood of Cape Town and Grahamstown as
+     beneficial for a short sojourn, among the upland stations I would
+     call attention to Middelburg and Tarkestad. Hotel accommodation and
+     adequate comfort for invalids, as regards food, quarters,
+     attention, occupation, and amusement, are still most deficient.
+     During the recent drought the dust storms proved very trying to the
+     eyes and to the bronchial membranes at Kimberley, and at
+     Johannesburg the dangers were great. I rejoice to learn that Sir
+     Frederick Young has found his winter trip so health-giving, and
+     believe that a similar expedition might prove of immense value to
+     many Englishmen who are overwrought in body or in mind.
+
+     The CHAIRMAN (the Right Hon. the Marquis of Lorne, K.T., G.C.M.G.):
+     I propose a hearty vote of thanks to Sir Frederick Young for his
+     kindness in reading the Paper. I was extremely interested myself,
+     as I think you all were. In his political observations, and in
+     speaking of a firm policy, I think that, after all, what the reader
+     of the Paper meant was firmness in allowing each nationality to
+     develop itself as it best might, with aid from home. I think that
+     is the sense of his observations, and I am sure we are obliged to
+     him, not only for speaking of more personal matters, but also for
+     telling us the actual impressions he derived from the journey. I
+     entirely agree with Mr. Merriman--and I believe Sir Frederick Young
+     does--that, finding ourselves in South Africa with the Dutch, we
+     must work with them and through them. I hope the Dutch will allow
+     themselves to be helped in one matter which Sir Frederick Young
+     impressed on President Kruger--apparently not with great
+     results--viz., in the matter of railways, and that they will allow
+     railways to pierce the Transvaal. I am sure he is a man of too much
+     intelligence very much to object to railways. That policy would be
+     too much like that of the Chinese. I remember, when I was at the
+     head of a society in London, asking the representative of China to
+     come and listen to a paper in regard to railways through Siam. He
+     said solemnly--"Chinese not like railways." I said this railway
+     would not go through the Imperial dominions--that it would only be
+     at a respectful distance. Again my remarks were interpreted to him,
+     and again, after a long pause, he solemnly replied--"Chinese don't
+     like railways near frontier." I am sure President Kruger will not
+     fritter chances away in that manner, and that he will allow us to
+     help him.
+
+     SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.: I feel extremely flattered by the
+     compliment which our noble Chairman has been good enough to pay me.
+     It was really most gratifying to me to be able to take the
+     interesting and instructive tour from which I have recently
+     returned, and the only difficulty and hesitation I felt as to
+     giving an account of what I saw was that I saw so much that I did
+     not know how I could crowd a tithe of it in the reasonable
+     dimensions of a paper. I was a little in dread, I confess, when so
+     astute and able a politician as Mr. Merriman rose to make his
+     criticisms; but I wish him to understand, as well as you, that the
+     view I put forward--perhaps I did not explain myself as clearly as
+     I ought to have done--was that advocated by Mr. Merriman himself,
+     namely, that South Africa should be allowed to frame her own
+     policy. That is the sum and substance of what I wished to say on
+     that point. As the noble Marquis has been so kind as to act as my
+     interpreter, I need not take up more of your time by enlarging on
+     this question. I have now the greatest possible pleasure in asking
+     you to join with me in thanking the noble Marquis for having, as
+     one of our Vice-Presidents, been so kind as to preside on this
+     occasion.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+APPENDIX II.
+
+IMPERIAL FEDERATION.
+
+
+     An address on the above interesting subject was delivered by Sir
+     Frederick Young, K.C.M.G., in the Y.M.C. Association Hall, on
+     Monday, when the room was filled to its utmost capacity. The chair
+     was taken by the President of the Association, Mr. E.J. Earp, who,
+     in introducing the lecturer to the audience, said he was a
+     gentleman who was well and favourably known to many colonists, who
+     had received great attention and kindness from him during their
+     visits to the Old Country. Sir Frederick Young had very kindly
+     responded to the invitation of the committee to lecture this
+     evening, and though the subject of Imperial Federation was of a
+     somewhat political nature, still it was not of such a character as
+     to preclude its being spoken about within the walls of the
+     association. The subject of the lecture was one worthy of all
+     attention, which had recently been occupying the attention of
+     eminent statesmen of various political opinions. This was an age of
+     specialists, and he thought that Sir Frederick Young might be well
+     considered as a specialist on the subject upon which he was now
+     about to address them. He had for many years been connected with
+     the Royal Colonial Institute, and his services had received
+     recognition at the hands of his Sovereign.
+
+     Sir Frederick Young, who was most warmly received, said in he first
+     place he must tender his hearty thanks to the Chairman for the very
+     kind manner in which he had introduced him. The attention of the
+     audience this evening would be directed to the desirability of
+     promoting the unity of the British Empire. Before commencing his
+     address, he wished to emphasize what the Chairman had already
+     expressed with regard to the rules of the association on political
+     subjects. In connection with that, he would say that the subject he
+     was about to speak upon did not touch upon party politics in any
+     way, as it was a National question, and might be excepted from
+     their rigid rule. The subject of Imperial Federation was, to his
+     mind, of so vast and vital a character, and of such importance to
+     the whole nation collectively, that it impressed him with the
+     responsibility he incurred in speaking upon it, and the feeling he
+     had of being unable to do full justice to it. He spoke with some
+     confidence on the subject, because he claimed to be one of the
+     pioneers of the idea of Imperial Federation, which meant "the
+     government of the Empire by the Empire." He wished to take his
+     hearers back to the origin of English parliaments, when the first
+     idea of representation occurred to our early kings, and when the
+     scattered portions of England were at last drawn into one focus of
+     representation by Edward III., and gradually that kind of
+     representation succeeded in effecting the Union of England and
+     Scotland, and subsequently Ireland, things remaining in that form
+     until the present day. Latterly, our Colonial Empire had grown up
+     to wonderful and vast dimensions, but as far as the principle of
+     representation was concerned there had been no great change, though
+     it was perfectly true that during the past few years a certain
+     number of the Colonies had obtained what was called
+     self-government, or what he called the shadow of English government
+     on the parliamentary system, as retained in its original principle
+     and plan up to our own times. The Imperial policy of the British
+     Empire was entirely conducted at Home, and Imperial Federation
+     meant that this system should be changed, and that those who were
+     living outside the borders of the British Isles should have their
+     true participation in the government of the Empire. This led him to
+     a point on which there was very much misunderstanding on the part
+     of those who had heard the subject of Imperial Federation
+     mentioned, and who thought there must be some idea of those who
+     advocated it at Home getting some advantage over their colonial
+     brethren, and draw them into a net, by which they would have to
+     part with their rights of local self-government. He utterly denied
+     that there were any such intentions--on the contrary, this was an
+     invitation to them, a cry from the Old Country, asking them to come
+     and assist in governing the Empire. This could only be effected by
+     Imperial Federation, which would mean the termination of what was
+     called the rule of Downing Street, which would be superseded by
+     something far different, and, in his opinion, be far more
+     acceptable to the colonists themselves. They would not have to
+     suffer, as they had in the past, in many ways, from ignorance,
+     prejudice, and narrow views, but they would have an opportunity of
+     taking part in the policy of the Empire, particularly in that which
+     affected themselves. In consequence of the agitation at Home during
+     the past few years a successful attempt had been made to establish
+     what was called the Imperial Federation League, of which he was an
+     active member, and which took no part in party politics, and was at
+     the present moment presided over by Lord Rosebery, with the Hon. E.
+     Stanhope, the present Minister of War, as Vice-President, who, so
+     far as party politics were concerned, were on totally different
+     sides. That would prove that in England they did not regard this
+     great question as one of party politics. One of the most important
+     results in connection with that League had been the celebrated
+     Colonial Conference, which the League had been able to induce the
+     Government to summon two years ago at Westminster. They all knew
+     what a remarkable gathering that was, which was presided over by
+     Lord Knutsford (then Sir Henry Holland), the summons being
+     responded to by the self-governing Colonies of the Empire sending
+     their foremost men to represent their interests. From South Africa
+     were sent such men as Sir Thomas Upington, Sir John Robinson, and
+     Mr. Hofmeyr, and he confessed that, when he had the honour of being
+     at the first meeting of the Conference, and seeing these men
+     gathered in the Foreign Office, and having present the Prime
+     Minister, Lord Salisbury, if his dream of Imperial Federation was
+     to be anything more than a dream, he felt that these were the first
+     symptoms of its realization. It was the first time in history that
+     the Colonies of Great Britain had come to the Mother Country to
+     consult on great National questions. He had read nearly the whole
+     of the large Blue Book which contained the reports of the
+     Conference, and all he could say was that he challenged any
+     assembly of public men to meet together and show more ability and
+     statesmanlike thought in the discussion of the questions submitted
+     to them than was shown by that Conference during its short reign.
+     He was delighted with the noble words of Lord Salisbury, when he
+     expressed his satisfaction, and said he hoped this would be only
+     the first of many similar Conferences, but Lord Salisbury, like
+     other public men, sometimes saw occasion to change his views,
+     because not long ago he said, on a public occasion, that all he
+     knew about Federation was, that it was a word spelt with ten
+     letters, which was somewhat of a wet blanket to some of those who
+     had reckoned upon Lord Salisbury as an ardent supporter. More
+     recently he said, in reply to a question put to him at a public
+     meeting at the East End of London, that geographical considerations
+     would prevent the realization of such a scheme; but his allusions
+     to geographical difficulties vanished before modern science. Was it
+     not in their cognizance that in South Africa, through the medium of
+     the telegraph, they were able to know what was taking place in
+     England within twenty-four hours? Geographical considerations,
+     indeed! that might have been all very well some years ago, when it
+     took three or four months to reach the Cape, but now it took only
+     two or three weeks, and that time would even be probably reduced as
+     time wore on. Such being the case, geographical considerations had
+     nothing whatever to do with the matter. He had no desire to speak
+     unfairly of the gentleman who occupied the position of Prime
+     Minister of the Empire, but he felt sure the time would come when
+     Lord Salisbury would think that Imperial Federation was something
+     more than a word of ten letters; and that his geographical
+     considerations would vanish also, as having no reason in them. In
+     contrast to Lord Salisbury, he would read a short extract from a
+     speech, made only a few months ago at Leeds by Lord Rosebery, when
+     he said: "For my part, if you will forgive me this little bit of
+     egotism, I can say from the bottom of my heart that it is the
+     dominant passion of my public life. Ever since I traversed those
+     great regions which own the sway of the British Crown outside these
+     islands, I have felt that there was a cause, which merited all the
+     enthusiasm and energy that man could give to it. It is a cause for
+     which any one might be content to live; it is a cause for which, if
+     needs be, any one might be content to die." Lord Rosebery was at
+     this moment the President of the Imperial Federation League, and
+     only recently he addressed a letter, on behalf of the League, to
+     Lord Salisbury, asking that the Government would summon another
+     Conference like the one which took place with such wonderful
+     results two years ago, and which Lord Salisbury had said he hoped
+     would be the first of many more. The answer he gave, however, was
+     something to the effect that he did not think it desirable that the
+     Government should move in the matter, but that the Colonies should
+     take the initiative. With all humility he would ask how anything of
+     this kind could be moved, except by some motor? There must be
+     something to move the colonists, and who could do that so well as
+     Her Majesty's Government, by inviting, in a courteous and
+     sympathetic spirit, the Colonies to come again and consult on
+     Imperial subjects. He would now touch upon some of the errors
+     prevalent on this great question of Imperial Federation. In some of
+     the Colonies, New Zealand in particular, something had been said
+     that in course of time independence must be the inevitable result.
+     But he asked why should this be the case? He would also like to say
+     something about what were Imperial questions? Some of the subjects
+     which would be dealt with by the Imperial Federated Parliament
+     would be those of National defence, peace and war, and all subjects
+     in which national interests are concerned. As he had attempted to
+     explain, it would be a federation in which the Colonies would be
+     completely and fairly represented. The whole subject resolved
+     itself into this: Representation. One hundred years ago, one of our
+     distinguished statesmen in England, Charles James Fox, said that
+     "representation was the sovereign remedy for all evils," and that
+     was what was contended for by Imperial Federation. He would now
+     venture to make some allusion to one of the most distinguished
+     statesmen in South Africa, who attended the Conference in
+     London--he alluded to Mr. Hofmeyr--who made a most remarkable
+     speech. He was sorry it was too long to read, but he would select a
+     portion of that very statesmanlike address. Referring to the fourth
+     and eighth subjects proposed for discussion--viz., the feasibility
+     of promoting a closer union between the various parts of the
+     British Empire by means of an Imperial tariff of Customs, to be
+     levied independently of the duties payable under existing tariffs
+     on goods entering the British Empire from abroad, the revenue
+     derived from such tariffs to be devoted to the general defence of
+     the Empire--he said: "I have taken this matter in hand with two
+     objects, to promote the union of the Empire, and at the same time
+     to obtain revenue for general defence. It would establish a
+     connecting link between the Colonies mutually, as well as between
+     the Colonies, and the Empire also, such as is not at present in
+     existence, and which might fuller develop, by-and-by, into a most
+     powerful bond of union." Again, speaking of how this was to be
+     effected, he said: "A body would be required with legislative, and,
+     to some extent, administrative powers; in other words, you would
+     have a limited fiscal Parliament by the side of the British
+     Parliament and the various Colonial Parliaments. This small body,
+     which would have to be created, would perhaps be the germ of an
+     Imperial Federation afterwards." He thought those were most
+     remarkable, and striking words. If people would think the subject
+     out in a calm judicial, and fair spirit, they would see in it the
+     fulfilment of what would not only promote the best interests of the
+     British Empire, but would also be the handmaiden of civilization to
+     others as well, because in it there was no idea of aggrandisement.
+     He had recently made a most remarkable tour through this
+     interesting country, and since he landed in Cape Town, on the 24th
+     May, had seen a great deal of it. He had visited Kimberley, and
+     gone down in a bucket to see one of the diamond mines; he had
+     travelled to Vryburg, and across the treeless desert in the
+     south-western portion of the Transvaal to Klerksdorp; thence on to
+     Johannesburg and down the gold mines, and further on to Pretoria,
+     where he had an interview with President Kruger, and attended
+     meetings of the Volksraad. He had been 150 miles north of Pretoria,
+     and dwelt for a fortnight in the open veldt, without going near a
+     house, and had seen the Kafirs in their kraals. He had crossed the
+     Transvaal, through Heidelburg and Newcastle, in Natal, down to
+     Durban, he had visited Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown, and had now
+     returned to Cape Town. What he had seen of this great country had
+     astonished him, and he thought it had a vast future before it; but
+     it required to be governed in the most enlightened and satisfactory
+     manner, and he appealed to both races--Dutch and English--to
+     co-operate and unite in developing its wonderful resources. It was
+     by this way alone--by cordial co-operation and a generous feeling
+     towards one another, that this would be realized. He believed that
+     Imperial Federation would be the best solution of the difficulties
+     which had arisen. He had heard whispers of what was called
+     Republicanism. We worshipped words rather than things; but the
+     British Constitution, especially when it would be expanded by
+     Federation, would be practically a Republic with a Queen as
+     President. He would, therefore, appeal once more to the judgment of
+     thoughtful men to weigh the principles contended for, calmly,
+     wisely, and without prejudice or passion. The flippant, the
+     superficial, the thoughtlessly ambitious, and those who did not
+     take a fair, judicial, and comprehensive view of the great issues
+     involved in it to each portion of the Empire over which the British
+     Crown held sway, might deride and condemn it, but he, as one of its
+     most ardent pioneers and supporters, recommended it to all
+     colonists as well as to his countrymen at home, as the best
+     preservation of their commercial, social, and political interests
+     in the future, which they would lose altogether if they abandoned
+     it in favour of the disintegration of the British Empire. He had
+     studied this question for some years, and by a sort of instinct he
+     felt that it was the right thing to be brought about. He had
+     brought before them proofs that some distinguished men were already
+     feeling the desirability of some such thing being effected, and he
+     could not but help thinking that their ranks would be augmented by
+     other people of influence and power, who may hereafter be brought
+     to think seriously and carefully over this great question. He took
+     the opportunity himself, some three years ago, to put a letter in
+     the London _Times_ suggesting that as the question had now been
+     some years before the public, both in the Colonies and the Mother
+     Country, it would be very desirable indeed if a Royal Commission of
+     Inquiry were sent out, under distinguished auspices, for the
+     purpose of ascertaining the opinions of the various Colonies. This
+     could be carried out on parallel lines to the celebrated Commission
+     sent to Canada, and which resulted in the consolidation of the
+     Dominion. The obtaining of these opinions would be invaluable
+     evidence as to the consensus of feeling in the Colonies on the
+     subject. If the question was to be more than a dream, and became
+     one of practical politics, it would require all the Colonies to
+     express an opinion on the subject. He could not conceive that
+     anything could be more desirable than to take the evidence of
+     distinguished representative men on such a great National question.
+     Those were the views he expressed in the leading journal; they were
+     individual ideas, which did not yet appear to be acceptable, though
+     he could not help hoping that the day would arrive when some such
+     Royal Commission might be appointed, which would give an impetus to
+     the question--and, at all events, afford all those who took such a
+     deep interest in it an opportunity of seeing how far, in the
+     opinion of the various Colonies, such a change in the British
+     Constitution could be effected, to the entire satisfaction of all
+     concerned. There was no desire on the part of the Mother Country,
+     in propounding questions like this, to take any advantage of the
+     Colonies, or do anything which would not be for their benefit.
+     There was no hurry on the part of the Mother Country, which simply
+     asked the Colonies to help to govern and take part in the National
+     politics of the British Empire.
+
+     Mr. J.A. BAM proposed a vote of thanks to Sir Frederick Young for
+     his able and instructive lecture, which was heartily accorded.
+
+     SIR FREDERICK YOUNG having acknowledged the compliment, the
+     proceedings closed with a vote of thanks to the President.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+GEORGE BEECHING & SON, Printers, Upper Baker Street, London, N.W.
+
+
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+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA***
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Winter Tour in South Africa, by Frederick
+Young</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: A Winter Tour in South Africa</p>
+<p>Author: Frederick Young</p>
+<p>Release Date: July 30, 2005  [eBook #16399]</p>
+<p>Language: en</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4>E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Taavi Kalju,<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (https://www.pgdp.net/)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image01" name="image01">
+   <img src="images/01.jpg"
+      alt="MY WAGON."
+      title="MY WAGON." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">MY WAGON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<h1>A</h1>
+
+<h1>WINTER TOUR</h1>
+
+<h3>IN</h3>
+
+<h1>SOUTH AFRICA</h1>
+
+<h3>BY</h3>
+
+<h2>SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.</h2>
+
+<h5>(<i>Reprinted by permission from the Proceedings of the Royal Colonial
+Institute, with large additions, Illustrations, and a Map</i>.)</h5>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4>LONDON:</h4>
+
+<h4>E.A. PETHERICK &amp; CO., 33, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C.</h4>
+
+<h4>1890.</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="pagev." name="pagev."></a>Pg v.</span></p>
+<h2><a name="DEDICATION" id="DEDICATION"></a>TO HER ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCESS LOUISE, MARCHIONESS OF LORNE,</h2>
+
+<p class="center">
+This Volume, describing a recent tour, during which<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">a large portion of Her Majesty's magnificent</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dominions in South Africa were traversed,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">is, by gracious permission, dedicated</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">with feelings of sincere</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">respect.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="pagevii." name="pagevii."></a>Pg vii.</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="INTRODUCTION" name="INTRODUCTION">
+   <img src="images/01de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The growth of the great Colonies of the British Empire is so phenomenal,
+and their development is so rapid, and remarkable, that if we are to
+possess a correct knowledge of their actual state, and condition, from
+year to year, their current history requires to be constantly
+re-written.</p>
+
+<p>The writer of a decade since, is, to-day, almost obsolete. He has only
+produced a current record of facts, and places, at the period he wrote.
+This is especially the case with South Africa.</p>
+
+<p>I have recently returned from a very interesting tour in that remarkable
+country. My impressions were noted down, as they occurred, from day to
+day. A summary of my observations,<span class="pagenum"><a id="pageviii." name="pageviii."></a>Pg viii.</span> and of the incidents, in connection
+with my journey, was the subject of a Paper I read at the opening
+meeting of the present Session of the Royal Colonial Institute, on the
+12th of November last. I wish it to be understood that the opinions
+expressed on that occasion were my own, and that the Institute as a body
+is in no way responsible for them. This Paper has formed the outline of
+the volume, which&mdash;with much new matter from my note book&mdash;I now offer
+to the public, in the belief, that the narrative of a traveller, simply
+seeking instruction, as well as amusement, from a few months tour, while
+traversing some 12,000 miles by sea, and 4,000 miles by land, through
+the wonderful country in which he lately roamed, might prove of some
+use, in awakening additional interest on the part of the general public,
+to one of the most promising, and valuable portions of the Colonial
+Empire.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="pageix." name="pageix."></a>Pg ix.</span></p>
+
+<p>In this spirit, I offer my "Winter Tour in South Africa," to my
+countrymen, "at home and beyond the seas," in the hope that it may
+receive from them, a favourable reception.</p>
+
+<p>On the "Political Situation," I have spoken strongly and frankly, I hope
+not too much so. The result of my personal observations has convinced
+me, that I have only correctly expressed the opinions, very widely
+entertained by large classes of Her Majesty's subjects in South Africa.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot conclude without acknowledging the aid I have derived from the
+Statistical information contained in the "Argus Annual," and it also
+affords me much pleasure to thank Mr. James R. Boos&eacute;, the Librarian of
+the Royal Colonial Institute, for the assistance he has rendered me.</p>
+
+<p>FREDERICK YOUNG</p>
+
+<p>
+5, Queensberry Place, S.W.<br />
+<i>1st January, 1890.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="pagex." name="pagex."></a>Pg x.</span></p>
+<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a><i>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></h2>
+
+<table summary="List of Illustrations">
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image01">MY WAGON</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image02">GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image03">PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image04">JOHANNESBURG, MARKET PLACE</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image05">CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image06">GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image07">A STREET IN MARITZBURG</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image08">TOWN HALL, DURBAN</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image09">HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#image10">HEX RIVER PASS</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="pagexi." name="pagexi."></a>Pg xi.</span></p>
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a><i>CONTENTS.</i></h2>
+
+<table summary="Contents" width="60%">
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#DEDICATION"><b>DEDICATION.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#INTRODUCTION"><b>INTRODUCTION.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#CONTENTS"><b>CONTENTS.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#THE_VOYAGE"><b>THE VOYAGE.</b></a>&mdash;Embark at Southampton&mdash;Amusements at
+Sea&mdash;Lisbon&mdash;Madeira&mdash;Teneriffe&mdash;St. Helena&mdash;Longwood&mdash;Arrival at Cape Town</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td><td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#CAPE_TOWN"><b>CAPE TOWN.</b></a>&mdash;Queen's Birthday&mdash;Review
+of Troops&mdash;Regatta&mdash;Table Bay&mdash;Table Mountain&mdash;Hotels&mdash;House of
+Parliament&mdash;Observatory&mdash;South African Museum&mdash;Public Library&mdash;Botanic
+Gardens&mdash;Record Office&mdash;Places of Worship&mdash;Harbour Works and Breakwater&mdash;Graving
+Dock&mdash;Simon's Town&mdash;Kalk Bay&mdash;Constantia&mdash;Wynberg&mdash;Journey to
+Kimberley</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td><td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#KIMBERLEY"><b>KIMBERLEY.</b></a>&mdash;Address of Welcome from the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute&mdash;Diamond Industry&mdash;Bultfontein Mine&mdash;DeBeer's Mine&mdash;Compounds&mdash;United Companies&mdash;Central Kimberley Diamond
+Mine&mdash;Kimberley Hospital&mdash;Progress of Kimberley&mdash;Town Hall&mdash;Post
+Office&mdash;High Court&mdash;Public Library&mdash;Waterworks&mdash;<i>En route</i> for
+Bechuanaland&mdash;Wagon Travelling&mdash;Warrenton&mdash;Drake's Farm</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#BECHUANALAND"><b>BECHUANALAND.</b></a>&mdash;Scenery&mdash;Field for Settlement&mdash;Vryburg&mdash;Lochnagar Farm&mdash;Prospect of Gold Discovery</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#KLERKSDORP"><b>KLERKSDORP.</b></a>&mdash;Nooitgedacht Mine&mdash;Pan Washing&mdash;Klerksdorp Gold
+Estates Company&mdash;Future of Klerksdorp</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#POTCHEFSTROOM"><b>POTCHEFSTROOM.</b></a>&mdash;Wagon Journey&mdash;Presence of Gold-bearing Reefs&mdash;Vultures&mdash;Fort and Cemetery&mdash;Chevalier Forssman</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#JOHANNESBURG"><b>JOHANNESBURG.</b></a>&mdash;Difficulties of Travelling&mdash;Appearance of the Town&mdash;Gold&mdash;Knights&mdash;The Jumpers&mdash;Robinson's&mdash;Langlaagte&mdash;Descent
+to the Mines&mdash;Market Square&mdash;Growth of Johannesburg&mdash;Sanitary
+arrangements</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="pagenum"><a id="pagexii." name="pagexii."></a>Pg xii.</span><a href="#PRETORIA"><b>PRETORIA.</b></a>&mdash;Water Supply&mdash;The Volksraad&mdash;President Paul Kruger&mdash;High
+Court of Justice&mdash;Want of Railroads&mdash;Growing Prosperity&mdash;Post
+Office&mdash;New Government Buildings&mdash;Political and Social Life&mdash;Pretoria Races</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#WATERBURG"><b>WATERBURG.</b></a>&mdash;Polonia&mdash;Hebron&mdash;Salt Pans&mdash;Kafirs&mdash;Appearance of
+the Country&mdash;Prospects of Gold&mdash;Scarcity of Game&mdash;Bush Fire&mdash;Narrow
+Escape&mdash;Transport Driver&mdash;Waterburg Sulphur Baths&mdash;Nylstroom
+Road&mdash;Return to Pretoria</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#PRETORIA_TO_NATAL"><b>PRETORIA TO NATAL.</b></a>&mdash;Coach to Johannesburg&mdash;Post Cart Travelling&mdash;Richmond&mdash;Heidelburg&mdash;Standerton&mdash;Newcastle&mdash;Eland's Laagte&mdash;Natal Railway&mdash;Coal Fields&mdash;Laing's Nek&mdash;Majuba Hill&mdash;Ingogo&mdash;Scenery of Natal</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#MARITZBURG"><b>MARITZBURG.</b></a>&mdash;Public Buildings&mdash;House of Assembly&mdash;Statue of the
+Queen&mdash;British Troops</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#DURBAN"><b>DURBAN.</b></a>&mdash;Railway Journey&mdash;Town Hall&mdash;Municipal arrangements&mdash;Trade&mdash;Harbour Works&mdash;The "Berea"&mdash;Natal Central Sugar Company's
+Manufactory&mdash;Trappist Establishment</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#PORT_ELIZABETH"><b>PORT ELIZABETH.</b></a>&mdash;Trade&mdash;Town Hall&mdash;Public Library&mdash;Ostrich
+Feathers&mdash;The "Hill"&mdash;Botanical Garden&mdash;Hospital&mdash;Water Supply&mdash;Churches&mdash;Presentation of an address</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#GRAHAMSTOWN"><b>GRAHAMSTOWN.</b></a>&mdash;Railway Journey&mdash;Scenery&mdash;Botanical Gardens&mdash;Mountain Road&mdash;Museum&mdash;The Prison&mdash;Kafir School&mdash;Ostrich Farm
+at Heatherton Towers&mdash;Export of Feathers</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#PORT_ELIZABETH_TO_CAPE_TOWN"><b>PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.</b></a>&mdash;Scenery&mdash;Hex River Pass&mdash;Arrival at Cape Town&mdash;Lecture at Young Men's Christian Society&mdash;Start
+for England&mdash;Arrival at Southampton</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#CLIMATE"><b>CLIMATE.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#THE_NATIVE_QUESTION"><b>THE NATIVE QUESTION.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#RAILWAYS"><b>RAILWAYS.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#COLONISATION"><b>COLONISATION.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><a href="#THE_POLITICAL_SITUATION"><b>THE POLITICAL SITUATION.</b></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>APPENDIX:&mdash;</b></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span style="margin-left: 2em;"><a href="#APPENDIX_I"><b>I.</b></a> Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South
+Africa," by Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial
+Institute</span></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span style="margin-left: 2em;"><a href="#APPENDIX_II"><b>II.</b></a> Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town</span></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page1" name="page1"></a>Pg 1</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="THE_VOYAGE" name="THE_VOYAGE">
+   <img src="images/02de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+
+<h2>THE VOYAGE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. <i>Spartan</i> for
+Cape Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most
+enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or
+pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry on
+so admirably the weekly communication between England and South Africa,
+are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their captains and crews are
+so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin accommodation so ample
+and luxurious, that it seems impossible for anyone, excepting a
+confirmed grumbler, to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page2" name="page2"></a>Pg 2</span> find any reasonable fault with any of their
+arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will select the
+particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the
+convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any particular
+choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail
+Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line.</p>
+
+<p>A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give opportunity
+for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful and pleasant
+to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and turmoil of
+life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat monotonous, in
+spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged, including
+cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I experienced
+a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to preside at
+concerts,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page3" name="page3"></a>Pg 3</span> lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon passengers, but
+also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the Bay of Biscay,
+a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the picturesque
+capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the memory of the
+scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which destroyed most of the
+town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants; a short stay at the lovely island
+of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful scenery, to breathe
+its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land at its pretty
+town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings; a passing
+peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention in Europe as
+an attractive health resort; a few days' run of exhausting heat through
+the tropics; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a drive to
+Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon<span class="pagenum"><a id="page4" name="page4"></a>Pg 4</span> breathed his
+last&mdash;leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty name to all
+time&mdash;on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more of solitary
+sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales, porpoises,
+dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses; a glance upward, night
+after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern Cross, so much
+belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance, after the
+extravagant encomiums lavished on it; and at length, on the early
+morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/03de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page5" name="page5"></a>Pg 5</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="CAPE_TOWN" name="CAPE_TOWN">
+   <img src="images/04de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>CAPE TOWN.</h2>
+
+
+<p>To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is
+essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather.
+Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a
+deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful
+day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter
+genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite
+charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of
+Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually
+striking to a traveller, fresh from the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page6" name="page6"></a>Pg 6</span> sea, was, that it was the
+Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of
+"Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally <i>en f&ecirc;te</i>. The inhabitants
+thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay
+costumes among the motley crowd&mdash;English, Dutch, Germans and French,
+Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots&mdash;a tremendous gathering,
+in fact, of all nations, and "all sorts and conditions of men." There
+was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which
+His Excellency the Administrator, General Smyth, surrounded by a
+brilliant staff, received the homage due to the British flag; and, as
+her representative on this occasion, to Her Majesty's honoured name. The
+review was followed by a regatta in the afternoon. It was quite
+refreshing to a new arrival, like myself, to observe the enthusiastic
+evidences of loyal feeling everywhere exhibited<span class="pagenum"><a id="page7" name="page7"></a>Pg 7</span> in the capital of the
+Colony to our Queen, the beloved and venerated head of the British
+Empire.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image02" name="image02">
+   <img src="images/02.jpg"
+      alt="GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN."
+      title="GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Before commencing my long and interesting tour "up country," I spent a
+few most pleasant, days at Cape Town. My impressions of it, and of its
+beautiful surroundings, could not fail to be most favourable. The
+panoramic view of its approach from Table Bay, at the foot of Table
+Mountain, is very fine. The town itself appeared to me much cleaner, and
+brighter than I expected to see it, although, it must be admitted, there
+is still considerable room for improvement in its sanitary arrangements,
+and also in the accommodation, and condition of its hotels, to make them
+as attractive as they ought to be. The best of them do not come at all
+up to our standard at home, nor to our English ideas of comfort and
+convenience. A great improvement in these respects, I am<span class="pagenum"><a id="page8" name="page8"></a>Pg 8</span> satisfied, is
+not only necessary, but would pay well, and induce a far larger number
+of visitors to stay at Cape Town, and avail themselves of its
+attractions of climate, and fine surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>While I was at Cape Town, I visited among other places, the House of
+Parliament, the Observatory, the South African Museum, the Public
+Library, the Botanic Gardens, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image03" name="image03">
+   <img src="images/03.jpg"
+      alt="PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN."
+      title="PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The House of Parliament, which was opened for public use in 1885, is a
+very handsome building, having a frontage of 264 feet, and is divided
+into a central portico, leading into the grand vestibule, the two
+debating chambers, and side pavilions. The portico, which is of massive
+dimensions, is approached by a commanding flight of granite steps, which
+runs round three sides of it. The pavilions are relieved by groups of
+pilasters with Corinthian capitals, and are surmounted by domes and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page9" name="page9"></a>Pg 9</span>
+ventilators. The whole of the ground floor up to the level of the main
+floor has been built of Paarl granite, which is obtained from the
+neighbouring district of that name. The upper part of the building is of
+red brick, relieved by pilasters and window dressing of Portland cement,
+the effect being very pleasing to the eye. The interior accommodation
+for the business of the two Legislative bodies is most complete, and
+arranged with a careful view to comfort and convenience. In addition to
+the Debating Chambers, which are sixty-seven feet in length by
+thirty-six feet in width, there is a lofty hall of stately appearance,
+with marble pillars, and tesselated pavement, which forms the central
+lobby, or grand vestibule. I might mention, that the debating chambers
+are only ten feet in length and width less than the British House of
+Commons. Adjoining the central lobby is the parliamentary library, a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page10" name="page10"></a>Pg 10</span>
+large apartment, with galleries above each other reaching to the full
+height of the building. The usual refreshment, luncheon, and smoking
+rooms have not been forgotten, in connection with the comfort of the
+members. The public are accommodated in roomy galleries, and ample
+provision has been made for ladies, distinguished visitors, and the
+press. The portrait of Her Majesty, and the Mace at the table reminds
+one forcibly of the fact that one is still in a portion of the British
+Empire. The total cost of the building, including furniture, was
+&pound;220,000.</p>
+
+<p>I attended two or three debates in the House of Parliament, and was much
+impressed with the manner in which, in this superb and commodious
+legislative chamber, the discussions were carried on. There was a quiet
+dignity of debate, as well as business-like capacity and orderly tone,
+observed on both sides of the House,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page11" name="page11"></a>Pg 11</span> which might be copied with
+advantage, as it is in striking contrast to much of the practice, in the
+Parliament of Great Britain. It is certainly satisfactory to notice,
+that the modern manners and customs, in the popular branch of our own
+ancient national assembly, which so frequently fail in orthodox
+propriety, have not been imitated in the Cape Colony.</p>
+
+<p>At the Record Office attached to the House of Parliament, I went into
+the vaults, and inspected the early manuscripts of the Dutch, during
+their original occupation of the Cape of Good Hope. These are most
+deeply and historically interesting, and valuable. The minute accuracy,
+with which every incident is recorded is most remarkable. There are bays
+in these vaults, filled with records, which must be of priceless value
+to an historical student, and they are now in course of arrangement by
+the able librarian, Mr. H.C.V.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page12" name="page12"></a>Pg 12</span> Leibbrandt, who is the author of a most
+interesting work entitled "Rambles through the Archives of the Colony of
+the Cape of Good Hope."<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p>
+
+<p>At the South African Museum I found a valuable collection of beasts,
+birds, fishes, &amp;c., not only from South Africa, but from various parts
+of the world. The collection has been enriched by valuable contributions
+from Mr. Selous, the distinguished African traveller, and sportsman, his
+donations consisting chiefly of big game, including two gigantic elands,
+(male and female), buffaloes, antelopes, &amp;c. The series of birds
+comprises the large number of two thousand species.</p>
+
+<p>A visit of great interest to me was to the South African Public Library,
+which boasts of about 50,000 volumes, and embraces every branch of
+science and literature. It contains<span class="pagenum"><a id="page13" name="page13"></a>Pg 13</span> three distinct collections, viz.,
+the Dessinian, the Grey, and the Porter. The first-named was bequeathed
+to the Colony in 1761 by Mr. Joachim Nicholas Von Dessin, and consists
+of books, manuscripts and paintings. The Porter collection took its name
+from the Hon. William Porter, and was purchased from the subscriptions
+raised for the purpose of procuring a life-size portrait of that
+gentleman, in recognition of his services to the Colony. As, however,
+Mr. Porter declined to sit for his portrait, the amount subscribed was
+appropriated to the purchase of standard works, to be known as the
+Porter Collection. By far the most valuable, however, is the Grey
+Collection, numbering about 5,000 volumes, and occupying a separate
+room. These were presented by Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape
+Colony from 1854 to 1859, and still an active member of the New Zealand
+House of Representatives. Here are many rare<span class="pagenum"><a id="page14" name="page14"></a>Pg 14</span> manuscripts, mostly on
+vellum or parchment, some of them of the tenth century, in addition to a
+unique collection of works relating to South Africa generally.</p>
+
+<p>Among the places of worship in Cape Town the most important are St.
+George's Cathedral, which was built in 1830, and is of Grecian style of
+architecture, and accommodates about 1,200 persons; and the Dutch
+Reformed Church, which possesses accommodation for 3,000 persons, and is
+not unappropriately named the Colonial Westminster Abbey. Beneath its
+floors lie buried eight Governors of the Colony, the last one being Ryk
+Tulbagh, who was buried in 1771.</p>
+
+<p>No account of Cape Town would be complete without a reference to the
+important Harbour Works, and Breakwater, which at once attract the
+attention of the visitor, and which have been in course of erection for
+several years<span class="pagenum"><a id="page15" name="page15"></a>Pg 15</span> past, from the designs of Sir John Coode. These works
+have been of the greatest importance in extending, and developing the
+commercial advantages of the port. The Graving Dock now named the
+Robinson, after the late Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was formally
+opened during the year 1882, and it so happened that the first vessel to
+enter it was the <i>Athenian</i>, in which I returned to England, at the
+termination of my tour. The whole of the works connected with the
+building of the Docks and Breakwater reflect credit upon all who have in
+any way been engaged upon their construction. The amount expended on
+them up to the end of 1887 was &pound;1,298,103.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Cape Town, at the invitation of the Naval
+Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Wells, I paid a visit to Simon's Town, the
+chief naval station of the colony. The railway<span class="pagenum"><a id="page16" name="page16"></a>Pg 16</span> runs at present as far
+as Kalk Bay, which takes about an hour to get to from Cape Town. Kalk
+Bay is a pleasant seaside resort for the inhabitants of the colony, the
+air being regarded as particularly invigorating. The remaining distance
+of six miles to Simon's Town is performed in a Cape cart, which is a
+most comfortable vehicle on two wheels, drawn by two horses with a pole
+between them, and covered with a hood, as a protection from the weather.
+The scenery from the Kalk Bay station to Simon's Town is very
+picturesque. A bold sea stretches out on one side of the road, and the
+mountain on the other. Amongst other things which attracted my attention
+at Simon's Town was the Dockyard, which embraces about a mile of the
+foreshore, and contains appliances for repairing modern war vessels, a
+repairing and victualling dep&ocirc;t, and a patent slip, capable of lifting
+vessels of about<span class="pagenum"><a id="page17" name="page17"></a>Pg 17</span> 900 tons displacement. I went with the Admiral, and a
+party of ladies to have luncheon on board the Steam Corvette <i>Archer</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Simon's Bay is very sheltered, excepting from the south-east, with good
+holding anchorage ground. It seems a quiet, secluded spot, well-adapted
+for a naval station in this part of the world, although I have heard
+that an opinion prevails that the fleet should be at Cape Town instead
+of Simon's Bay. The <i>Raleigh</i> is the flag-ship; I saw also some other
+vessels of the Royal Navy at anchor in the bay. The fortifications which
+are now in progress for the protection of this important point in our
+chain of defences will, when completed, render the place practically
+impregnable from sea attack.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the most beautiful coast scenery I have ever seen is to be found
+in that very lovely drive by Sea Point to Hout's Bay, and thence back to
+Cape Town by Constantia and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page18" name="page18"></a>Pg 18</span> Wynberg. This is a celebrated excursion,
+and well deserves the praises bestowed upon it. The road has been
+admirably constructed by convict labour.</p>
+
+<p>A very convenient short line of railway also brings within easy reach of
+the inhabitants of Cape Town the pretty villages of Mowbray, Rondebosch,
+Rosebank, Newlands, Wynberg, Constantia, &amp;c., where, in charming villas
+and other residences, so many of the wealthier classes reside. At
+Constantia the principal wine farms are situated, the most noted being
+the Groot Constantia (the Government farm) and High Constantia.
+Constantia wine can only be produced on these farms. Another farm in
+this neighbourhood is Witteboomen, which is particularly noted for its
+peaches, there being over one thousand trees on the farm, in addition to
+many other kinds of fruit. Another one, and probably the largest in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page19" name="page19"></a>Pg 19</span>
+district, is named "Sillery." Here not many years ago the ground was a
+wilderness, but it has now attained a high state of perfection, there
+being at least 140,000 vines and hundreds of fruit trees of all kinds,
+under cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>At Cape Town I received the first proofs of the kind and lavish
+attentions which everywhere in South Africa were subsequently bestowed
+upon me. From everyone, without exception&mdash;from His Excellency the
+Administrator and Mrs. Smyth, and the members of his staff&mdash;from all the
+public men and high officials&mdash;from members of the Cape Government, and
+from the leaders of the Opposition, besides from innumerable private
+friends, Dutch and English alike, I received such cordial tokens of
+goodwill, that I can only express my deep sense of appreciation of their
+most genial and friendly hospitality. I bid adieu to Cape Town (which I
+was visiting for the first time<span class="pagenum"><a id="page20" name="page20"></a>Pg 20</span> in my life) with the conviction that I
+was truly in a land, not of strangers, but of real friends, who desired
+to do everything in their power to make my visit to South Africa
+pleasant and agreeable to me; and this impression I carried with me ever
+afterwards at every place I visited during the whole of my tour.</p>
+
+<p>On Wednesday, May 29, I left Cape Town at 6.30 p.m. for Kimberley,
+passing Beaufort West, the centre of an extensive pastoral district, and
+De Aar, the railway junction from Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. This
+journey is a long one, of between 600 and 700 miles, and of some
+forty-two hours by railway. I travelled all through that night, and the
+whole of the next day, through the most remarkable kind of country I
+ever saw. Flat, and apparently as level, as a bowling-green (although we
+were continually rising from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page21" name="page21"></a>Pg 21</span> our starting-point at Cape Town to a
+height at Kimberley of about 3,800 feet above the sea), a sandy and
+dreary desert, with occasionally low, and barren hills in the far
+distance&mdash;not a tree to be seen, and scarcely any vestige of vegetation,
+excepting now and then, a few of the indigenous Mimosa shrubs, which,
+for hundreds of miles, grow fitfully on this desolate soil. This is the
+wonderful tract of country called the Great Karoo. Not a sign of animal
+life is to be detected, at this period of the year. During the summer
+months it affords pasturage for large flocks of sheep. It is a vast
+interminable <i>sea of lone land</i>, over which the eye wanders unceasingly
+during the whole of the daylight hours.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/05de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page22" name="page22"></a>Pg 22</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="KIMBERLEY" name="KIMBERLEY">
+   <img src="images/06de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>KIMBERLEY.</h2>
+
+
+<p>After another long night in the railway train, at noon on the second
+day, after leaving Cape Town, I reached the celebrated diamond town of
+Kimberley, the population of which consists of about 6,000 Europeans,
+with a native population estimated at about 10,000, chiefly concentrated
+in the mining area.</p>
+
+<p>On my arrival at the railway station, I was met by the Mayor, and a
+deputation of the residents of the town. At a conversazione held later,
+and which was attended by over four hundred ladies and gentlemen, the
+following address was presented to me by the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page23" name="page23"></a>Pg 23</span> Fellows of the Royal
+Colonial Institute resident at Kimberley and Beaconsfield:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Kimberley, <i>June 1st</i>, 1889.</p>
+
+<p>"To SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.</p>
+
+<p>"A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute.</p>
+
+<p>"DEAR SIR,&mdash;We, the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute,
+resident in the towns and mining centres of Kimberley, and
+Beaconsfield, South Africa, cordially welcome your arrival amongst
+us.</p>
+
+<p>"We are persuaded that your visit to this distant part of Her
+Majesty's Dominions has been undertaken, not merely for personal
+pleasure, but also on behalf of the great and growing need for the
+consolidation and expansion of colonial interests throughout the
+Empire.</p>
+
+<p>"We feel that your own career has been an important factor in the
+formation of a sound public opinion on this subject, and that it
+is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page24" name="page24"></a>Pg 24</span> largely through your patient and far-seeing efforts, that the
+Royal Colonial Institute has attained its present proud position
+amongst the various, influences, moulding, organising, and guiding
+the life and destinies of Her Majesty's Colonial Empire.</p>
+
+<p>"We believe the present time to be vitally important in the history
+of Her Majesty's Dominions in South Africa. The tide of
+confederation, and corporate union is manifestly rising, the wave
+of extended British influence is flowing northwards, the various
+nationalities and states of this vast country are educating
+themselves by experience to see the folly and sterile weakness of
+isolation, and are learning to realise the inherent strength, and
+vitality of mutual co-operation, based on a self respecting, yet
+unselfish responsibility to South Africa as a whole.</p>
+
+<p>"We venture to suggest that this growing<span class="pagenum"><a id="page25" name="page25"></a>Pg 25</span> feeling for co-operation
+will prove a valuable element in the growth, and formation in the
+near future, of one Grand Confederation of all countries and
+peoples, owing allegiance to, or claiming corporate alliance with,
+Her Britannic Majesty's Empire.</p>
+
+<p>"We rejoice, as members of the Royal Colonial Institute, that your
+personal merits and public career have been recognised by Her
+Majesty in the honour conferred upon you, which we trust you will
+enjoy for many years.</p>
+
+<p>"Coming amongst us as a Vice-President of our own Institute, your
+presence symbolises to us the aspiration, radiant in hope, and
+prophetic in promise, which animates all true and loyal subjects of
+Her Majesty, and which is alone worthy of our past history, and
+present responsibilities&mdash;the aspirations of a strong and united
+people for a vigorous, and progressive 'United Empire.'"</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page26" name="page26"></a>Pg 26</span></p>
+
+<p>To anyone visiting, for the first time, this great centre of the diamond
+industry of South Africa the scene is most extraordinary. The excitement
+and bustle, the wild whirl of vehicular traffic, the fearful dust, the
+ceaseless movement of men and women of all descriptions, and of every
+shade of complexion and colour, are positively bewildering. The thoughts
+of everybody appear to be centred in diamonds, and the prevailing talk
+and speech are accordingly. Being the recipient, myself, of the most
+kind attention and genial and generous hospitality, my stay was most
+agreeable, and pleasant. Great facilities were afforded me for seeing
+everything connected with this wonderful industry, and satisfying
+myself, that there are no present signs of its being exhausted or
+"played out." Indubitable evidences were given me, that diamonds
+continue to be found in as large quantities as ever. They appeared to me
+to be "as plentiful as blackberries."</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page27" name="page27"></a>Pg 27</span>At the Bultfontein Mine I descended to the bottom of the open workings
+in one of the iron buckets, used for bringing up the "blue ground" to
+the surface. This is rather a perilous adventure. To go down by a wire
+rope, some five or six hundred feet perpendicular into the bowels of the
+earth with lightning rapidity, standing up in an open receptacle, the
+top of which does not approach your waist, oscillating like a pendulum,
+while you are holding on "like grim death" by your hands, is something
+more than a joke. It certainly ought not to be attempted by anyone who
+does not possess a cool head and tolerable nerve.</p>
+
+<p>Here I saw multitudes of natives employed,&mdash;as afterwards in the De
+Beer's, the Kimberley, and other diamond mines,&mdash;with pickaxes, shovels,
+and other tools, breaking down the ground at the sides of the mine,
+perched at<span class="pagenum"><a id="page28" name="page28"></a>Pg 28</span> various spots, and many a giddy height. Diamond mining at
+Kimberley is altogether a very wonderful specimen of the development of
+a new industry. In this mine I had explained to me the various
+processes, by which diamonds are discovered in the rocky strata which is
+being constantly dug out of the enormous circular hole, constituting it.</p>
+
+<p>I also visited the celebrated De Beer's Mine. This vast mine, where some
+thousands of workmen, white and coloured, are employed, is carried on
+much in the same way as the Bultfontein, as far as the different
+processes are concerned, of treating the material in which the diamonds
+are found. It is much richer, however, in "blue ground," and
+consequently far more valuable results are obtained from it. For
+instance, the average value of each truck load of stuff from the
+Bultfontein is said to be about 8s., while from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page29" name="page29"></a>Pg 29</span> the De Beer's it is
+28s. or 30s. The latter mine is now worked underground, in the same way
+as copper and coal mines are worked in England. Excellent arrangements
+are made for the protection and well-being of the native workmen,
+especially by the introduction of "compounds" during the last year or
+two. These are vast enclosures, with high walls, where the natives
+compulsorily reside, after their daily work is done during the whole
+time they remain at work in the mine. This system has been attended with
+the most satisfactory results. I went over the De Beer's "compound,"
+where I saw an immense number of natives, all appearing lively,
+cheerful, and happy. A large number were playing at cards (they are
+great gamblers), and others amusing themselves in various ways. No
+intoxicating liquor is permitted to be sold within the "compounds." The
+weekly receipts for ginger<span class="pagenum"><a id="page30" name="page30"></a>Pg 30</span> beer amount to a sum, which seems fabulous,
+averaging from &pound;60 to &pound;100 a week. The natives can purchase from the
+"compound" store every possible thing they want, from a tinpot to a
+blanket, from a suit of old clothes to a pannikin of mealies. Before the
+establishment of the "compounds," when the natives had the free run of
+the town, and could obtain alcoholic liquor&mdash;on Saturday nights
+especially, after they had done their work and received their weekly
+wages&mdash;Kimberley was a perfect pandemonium.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting visit was one to the central offices of the United
+Companies, where I saw the diamonds, as they are prepared ready for
+sale, lying on a counter in small assorted lots, on white paper. This is
+a most remarkable sight. The lots, varying from half-a-dozen to twenty,
+or thirty, or more diamonds, are spread out arranged according to their<span class="pagenum"><a id="page31" name="page31"></a>Pg 31</span>
+estimated value. I took up one, which I was told would probably fetch
+&pound;1,000, and of which there were several similar ones in the different
+parcels on the counter. The manager showed me a paper of a sale to the
+buyers, a day or two before, of a parcel, which was calculated to
+realise &pound;14,189, and which actually was sold afterwards for &pound;14,150;
+showing the surprising accuracy of the previous estimate on the part of
+the experts.</p>
+
+<p>Another day I went to the Central Kimberley Diamond Mine. After going
+over the mine, my party and myself all "assisted" at the counter in one
+of the large sheds in picking out diamonds from the heap of small stones
+just brought up and laid out from the day's washings. It is rather a
+fascinating occupation, turning over the heap with a little triangular
+piece of tin held in one hand, and continually "scraped" along the
+board. I found several<span class="pagenum"><a id="page32" name="page32"></a>Pg 32</span> diamonds. We were told, after we had been
+working diligently for an hour or two&mdash;there were six of us&mdash;that the
+value of the diamonds we had found, and placed in the manager's box, was
+probably &pound;1,200. This seemed to us a good afternoon's work. The entire
+district of Kimberley seems to teem with diamonds, and yet there is no
+cessation in the demand for them, and they are still rising in price.
+Accidents are frequent at these mines, but excellent provision for
+meeting these misfortunes is made in the admirably conducted Kimberley
+Hospital (where there are no less than 360 beds for patients), which I
+visited during my stay. It is under the management of a very remarkable
+woman, Sister Henrietta, and reflects the greatest credit on everyone
+connected with its conduct, and support. The number of native cases
+treated at the Hospital during the year 1887 was 2,975.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page33" name="page33"></a>Pg 33</span></p>
+
+<p>Kimberley has risen with immense speed, commencing from what is
+generally known as a "rush," to a large and prosperous centre of wealth,
+trade, and commerce. There, where only a few years since, was to be
+found a collection of tents and small huts, I found a city with handsome
+buildings, churches, stores, institutions, and law courts, and, above
+all, a well ordered society. Some of the buildings which I might
+specially mention, are the Town Hall, the Post Office, the High Court,
+and the Public Library, which has been in existence about seven years,
+and is superintended with such excellent results and most gratifying
+success by the Judge President. One noticeable fact connected with this
+Library is that the number of works of fiction annually taken out by the
+subscribers, exceeds, per head of the population, that of any Public
+Library in the United Kingdom.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page34" name="page34"></a>Pg 34</span></p>
+
+<p>The Kimberley Waterworks, which I also visited, have proved a great boon
+to this part, of the Colony. They were erected at a cost of &pound;400,000,
+the water supply being obtained from the Vaal River, seventeen miles
+away.</p>
+
+<p>After spending a most pleasant and agreeable week there, I left
+Kimberley at six o'clock on the morning of June 7, in a wagon drawn by
+eight horses, and accompanied by five friends, for Warrenton, <i>en route</i>
+for Bechuanaland and the Transvaal. This mode of travelling was quite a
+novelty to me. Although in this journey of altogether three weeks'
+duration, we occasionally put up at one or two hotels, at some of the
+towns, and sometimes at the farmhouses on our way, we frequently "camped
+out" on the open veldt, and, after finishing our evening meal of the
+rough-and-ready provisions we carried with us, supplemented by the game
+we shot, we wrapped<span class="pagenum"><a id="page35" name="page35"></a>Pg 35</span> ourselves in our karosses, and slept for the night
+under the canopy of the starlit sky. I occupied the wagon, my more
+juvenile companions lying on the ground beneath it.</p>
+
+<p>This was my first experience of sleeping in the open air in a wagon, and
+this, too, in the depth of a South African winter.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Warrenton is situated on the banks of the Vaal River, and is
+forty-three miles north of Kimberley. It is at present an unimportant
+town, but diamond diggings have been recently opened, and it is a good
+cattle district. It took its name from Sir Charles Warren. Soon after
+leaving Warrenton we crossed the Vaal River on a pontoon. Here a trooper
+of the Mounted Police joined us, who was said to be a very crack shot.
+He rode a charming and well-bred grey horse, and had two admirably
+trained pointers with him. He offered me his horse to ride, he<span class="pagenum"><a id="page36" name="page36"></a>Pg 36</span> taking
+my place in the wagon. I had a most enjoyable morning's ride on one of
+the best little hacks I ever mounted, cantering over the veldt in the
+track of the wagon for about eight or ten miles&mdash;through a charming
+country with a superb view towards Bechuanaland, the veldt being more
+wooded and picturesque, than I had hitherto seen.</p>
+
+<p>We slept that night at Drake's Farm. Before starting the next morning, I
+had a long conversation with Mr. Drake. He was born and brought up in
+London, and was in business with the firm of Moses &amp; Son, of Cheapside,
+as a traveller. He came out here nine years ago with &pound;10 in his pocket,
+and travelled up from Port Elizabeth. Mr. Drake is evidently a man of
+great energy, and perseverance. He has a high opinion of the country,
+and a great idea of its future. His farm and store<span class="pagenum"><a id="page37" name="page37"></a>Pg 37</span> are situated on the
+borders of Bechuanaland; but he now wishes he had settled there, even in
+preference to where he is. He laughs at the idea of there being no
+water. He says there is plenty to be found at from seventeen to
+twenty-five feet below the surface. But he says it must be dug for. If
+properly irrigated, it is his opinion that thousands and thousands of
+tons of mealies might be grown. He is enthusiastic about the beauty of
+Bechuanaland, and spoke of having seen parts of it in which the charms
+of English scenery are to be found, and even greater attractions than in
+many gentlemen's parks in the Old Country. His opinion of the climate is
+very high. He told me he would on no account exchange his present
+location, with its dry, pure, and bracing air, so healthful,
+invigorating, and free, for the chill, and damps, and fogs of England.
+Mr. Drake was in England during<span class="pagenum"><a id="page38" name="page38"></a>Pg 38</span> the year 1887 (the Jubilee year), but
+he was glad to get back again to his home on the border of
+Bechuanaland&mdash;a very comfortable one, as I can testify from my own
+personal experience.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/07de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page39" name="page39"></a>Pg 39</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="BECHUANALAND" name="BECHUANALAND">
+   <img src="images/08de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>BECHUANALAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I was very much struck with the appearance of the country on first
+entering Bechuanaland. The vast plain, over which I was then riding on
+horseback, was bounded by low, sloping hills, covered with brushwood and
+trees. It suggested to me forcibly the idea of a "land of promise,"
+wanting only an intelligent and energetic people to secure its proper
+and successful development.</p>
+
+<p>In fact, as a field for settlement, I entirely concur with the remarks
+of Mr. John Mackenzie, who has worked for so many years in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page40" name="page40"></a>Pg 40</span>
+Bechuanaland, and who states in his recent work, entitled, "Austral
+Africa"&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"I come now to give my own thoughts as to the capabilities of
+Bechuanaland as a field for colonisation. My mind reverts at once
+to thrifty, and laborious people who are battling for dear-life on
+some small holding in England or Scotland, and who can barely make
+ends meet. I do not think that any class of men, or men of any
+colour, endure such hardships in South Africa. There are portions
+of Bechuanaland where, in my opinion, a body of some hundreds of
+agricultural emigrants would, like the Scottish settlers in
+Baviaan's river, some sixty years ago, take root from the first,
+and make for themselves homes. If they came in considerable
+numbers, and accompanied by a minister of religion, and possibly a
+schoolmaster, the children would not be losers by the change, while
+the church<span class="pagenum"><a id="page41" name="page41"></a>Pg 41</span> and school-house would form that centre in South
+Africa, with which all are familiar in Scotland, and give the
+people from the first a feeling of home. I would not suggest that
+such men should be merely agriculturists, but that like most
+farmers in South Africa they should follow both branches of
+farming. They would begin with some sheep, or angora goats, and a
+few cows. In the first instance they would have a freehold in the
+village, with right of pasturage, and they would also have their
+farm itself in the neighbourhood, the size of which would depend
+upon its locality and capabilities. But with the milk of his stock
+and the produce of his land in maize, millet and pumpkins, the
+farmer and his family would be, from the first, beyond the reach of
+want."</p></div>
+
+<p>For two days more we travelled through the same kind of country, a fine,
+bold, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page42" name="page42"></a>Pg 42</span> very extensive plain (a promising district for cattle
+farming), with rolling and undulating hills in the distance, till we
+reached Vryburg, about a hundred and forty-five miles&mdash;in four
+days&mdash;from Kimberley. This is the capital of British Bechuanaland, and
+the head-quarters of Sir Sidney Shippard, the Administrator. The town
+itself contains about 500 inhabitants, chiefly Europeans. Here we spent
+four days. On one of these I was taken by Mr. M&mdash;&mdash; to visit his fine
+Bechuanaland farm of 6,000 morgen&mdash;12,000 acres&mdash;which he has named
+"Lochnagar." We left Vryburg at 7.30 a.m., and drove about twelve miles
+in the direction of Kuruman, reaching Lochnagar Farm about 10 o'clock.
+While breakfast was preparing, Mr. M&mdash;&mdash; took me round the nearest part
+of this excellent and valuable farm. He has had it about three years,
+and he has already shown the wonderful capabilities for development<span class="pagenum"><a id="page43" name="page43"></a>Pg 43</span>
+which an enterprising proprietor, possessed of some capital, can evolve
+from farms in Bechuanaland. He first took me into his fruit garden,
+which he has stocked with fruits of all descriptions. I was particularly
+struck with the healthy appearance of the wood (it was then the middle
+of winter) of the trees of all sorts of fruit. He has planted mulberry,
+apple, pear, apricot, peach, orange, citron, and several other fruits,
+all of which seem to be growing fast, and taking root vigorously in the
+soil. A large space is also devoted to a vineyard, as well as another to
+an orchard.</p>
+
+<p>The farm is well irrigated, there being an abundance of water on it, as
+I myself saw. After breakfast we walked round the cattle lair, where a
+large portion of his 200 head of cattle were collected. I was much
+impressed with the fine appearance of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page44" name="page44"></a>Pg 44</span> stock. Large-framed, stalwart
+oxen, and fat milch cows were round me on every side during my
+inspection. I did not notice a single animal that was not in capital
+condition, and fit for the market&mdash;if market there could only be. I next
+went through a large enclosure, in which there were about forty horses,
+part of the eighty belonging to Mr. M&mdash;&mdash;. Here I saw several
+three-year-olds, and brood mares, and colts, all looking well and
+healthy, and containing several good, well-shaped, and promising
+specimens of young horseflesh. Mr. M&mdash;&mdash; has also a flock of one
+thousand sheep on his farm, but these I did not see, as they were out
+grazing on the veldt. We then walked to another portion of the farm,
+lying close to the capital house, built of stone by Mr. M&mdash;&mdash;, to a
+large "pan," or lake, in which there were fish caught with a net. These
+are a sort of carp,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page45" name="page45"></a>Pg 45</span> and a black-coloured fish of seven pounds or eight
+pounds weight, said to be very good eating. I saw in an outhouse a small
+collapsible boat, which is sometimes used on the lake. In summer, I am
+told, the farm looks very pretty, with its long stretches of bright
+green herbage, and wild flowers, and sunny aspect.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. M&mdash;&mdash; was born at Cape Town. He is of Dutch origin, and is a fine,
+stalwart-looking man with great energy of character and keen
+intelligence. He seems well fitted to be a pioneer farmer, to develop
+the too-long neglected resources of this fertile land. He is about
+forty-five years of age, and a bachelor. He first arrived on his farm on
+a Saturday night three years ago, and the next day commenced tree
+planting. His first trees were thus planted on a Sunday Morning. This
+was a good omen of the success he deserves, as I remarked to him.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page46" name="page46"></a>Pg 46</span></p>
+
+<p>While I was at Vryburg I was also taken by the proprietor of the Vryburg
+Hotel to see a farm about five miles off, where they were prospecting
+for gold. Mr. H&mdash;&mdash; informed me that the reef I saw, was the same
+description of rock, I should see at Johannesburg. The people in this
+neighbourhood are very sanguine; I was told that this may prove a great
+discovery for Bechuanaland.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/09de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page47" name="page47"></a>Pg 47</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="KLERKSDORP" name="KLERKSDORP">
+   <img src="images/10de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>KLERKSDORP.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Having received the same hospitable attention, as elsewhere, at Vryburg,
+our wagon party once more resumed its journey. Thirty miles brought us
+to the south-western frontier of the Transvaal, from whence we travelled
+on, through the most dreary, flat, uninteresting, barren, treeless
+plain, for two or three days more, sleeping every night on the veldt,
+until we reached Klerksdorp, about 120 miles from Vryburg. The
+south-western part of the Transvaal is certainly exceedingly inferior in
+appearance to what I saw in Bechuanaland.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page48" name="page48"></a>Pg 48</span> We remained at Klerksdorp
+three days. While there I visited one or two of the gold mines of this
+promising district.</p>
+
+<p>At the Nooitgedacht Mine I saw the process performed of pan washing of
+the previously crushed quartz. I also went to the stamping house, where
+a machine for crushing has been erected of twenty stamps. I inspected
+the mine generally, and its various shafts already sunk. The work
+appeared to me to be well and systematically conducted. Before leaving
+this mine the great gold cake lump, weighing 1,370 ozs., which was being
+forwarded, the day I was there, to the Paris Exhibition, was put into my
+hands. It seemed a wonderfully big lump of the precious metal, which is
+so earnestly sought for by every race of civilised man.</p>
+
+<p>I also went over another mine, at present in the early stage of its
+development, but which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page49" name="page49"></a>Pg 49</span> struck me as being conducted, as far as the
+working management was concerned, on good, sound, business
+principles&mdash;belonging to the Klerksdorp Gold Estates Company.</p>
+
+<p>My stay at Klerksdorp much impressed me with the idea of the future of
+this town of yesterday's growth. It is only fifteen months ago, (a
+little more than a year) that the whole of the town on the side of the
+stream where the Union Hotel is situated, was begun. The inhabitants
+already number some thousands; and the indications I have seen in the
+mines, of great prospects of gold being found in large and payable
+quantities, are very strong. Klerksdorp may yet become a second
+Johannesburg, whose remarkable and rapid development I was told, would
+astonish me.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page50" name="page50"></a>Pg 50</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="POTCHEFSTROOM" name="POTCHEFSTROOM">
+   <img src="images/06de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>POTCHEFSTROOM.</h2>
+
+
+<p>After leaving Klerksdorp, we travelled the next day in our wagon
+thirty-two miles, halting for the night at Potchefstroom, which is not
+only one of the oldest, but one of the most important of the Transvaal
+districts. Recently the presence of gold-bearing reefs has been
+demonstrated in many parts of the division. On our way we passed, during
+the afternoon, a spot on the road where a flock of not less than fifty
+of those unclean birds, vultures, were hovering over and around the
+carcase of a recently dead bullock. These<span class="pagenum"><a id="page51" name="page51"></a>Pg 51</span> birds are the scavengers of
+this part of the world; they feed greedily on carrion, and rapidly pull
+a dead animal completely to pieces, leaving only the bones, which
+afterwards lie bleaching on the Veldt, to mark the spot where it has
+fallen in death&mdash;whether it be either horse, or mule, or bullock&mdash;left
+to die, worn out with fatigue by its unfeeling owners.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Potchefstroom, the next morning, I paid a hasty visit to
+the Fort and Cemetery, rendered so tragically historical in connection
+with the Transvaal war. It was here that my lamented friend, the late
+Chevalier Forssman, was shut up with his family for ninety days, and
+lost during the siege, two of his children, a son and a daughter. I was
+much struck with the picturesque appearance of Potchefstroom. It has a
+population of about 2,000. Another long two days' journeying of about
+sixty-four miles,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page52" name="page52"></a>Pg 52</span> through a prettier country than the wide wilderness
+of the boundless and treeless plain, we had hitherto passed through in
+the Western part of the Transvaal, brought us to Johannesburg.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/11de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page53" name="page53"></a>Pg 53</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="JOHANNESBURG" name="JOHANNESBURG">
+   <img src="images/12de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>JOHANNESBURG.</h2>
+
+
+<p>We had some little trouble in finding our way into the town, as for the
+last two hours the daylight failed, and we had to grope our way along at
+a snail's pace in total darkness. This, in a country of such rough roads
+and deep and dangerous gulleys and water-courses, was a most intricate
+and difficult proceeding. Eventually, however, we reached our
+destination about nine o'clock at night.</p>
+
+<p>This "auriferous" town is indeed a marvellous place, lying on the crest
+of a hill at an elevation of 5,000 feet above the level of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page54" name="page54"></a>Pg 54</span> the sea.
+Along its sides are spread out every variety of habitation, from the
+substantial brick and stone structures, which are being erected with
+extraordinary rapidity, to the multitude of galvanised iron dwellings,
+and the still not unfrequent tents of the first, and last comers. It is
+indeed a wonderful and bewildering sight to view it from the opposite
+hill across the intervening valley. Scarcely more than two years have
+elapsed since this town of twenty-five thousand inhabitants commenced
+its miraculous existence. The excitement and bustle of the motley crowd
+of gold seekers and gold finders is tremendous, the whole of the
+live-long day. The incessant subject of all conversation is gold, gold,
+gold. It is in all their thoughts, excepting, perhaps, a too liberal
+thought of drink. The people of Johannesburg think of gold; they talk of
+gold; they dream of gold.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page55" name="page55"></a>Pg 55</span> I believe, if they could, they would eat and
+drink gold. But, demoralising as this is to a vast number of those, who
+are in the vortex of the daily doings of this remarkable place, the
+startling fact is only too apparent to anyone who visits Johannesburg.
+It is to be hoped that the day will come when the legitimate pursuit of
+wealth will be followed in a less excitable, and a more calm and
+decorous manner, than at present regretably prevails.</p>
+
+<p>I spent a pleasant, as well as interesting, week at Johannesburg; and,
+during my stay, visited several of the mines, among them Knight's, the
+Jumpers, Robinson's, Langlaagte, &amp;c. At Robinson's, I had an opportunity
+of inspecting the wonderful battery just completed, and in full working
+order, constructed on the most approved principles for gold crushing,
+with sixty head of stamps. It is a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page56" name="page56"></a>Pg 56</span> marvellous specimen of mechanical
+contrivance for crushing the ore. Many parts of the machinery work
+automatically. I ascended the various floors, and had all the processes
+minutely and clearly described to me in a most courteous manner, by the
+superintendent of the battery. I afterwards went down into the mine,
+first to the 70-feet, and then again to the 150-feet levels. In this
+way, I passed two hours wandering underground with a candle in my hand,
+and inspecting the gold-bearing lodes of one of the richest mines in the
+Randt. This mine possesses magnificent lodes, and millions of tons of
+gold-producing quartz. There is a prospect of most profitable results in
+it for years to come. Altogether, from what I have seen of the various
+gold mines of Johannesburg, I am satisfied of the permanence of its gold
+fields. Of course they are not all of equal value; but many, even<span class="pagenum"><a id="page57" name="page57"></a>Pg 57</span> of
+the poorer mines, when they come to be worked more scientifically, and
+on proper business principles, will ultimately be found to pay fairly,
+although they may never be destined to yield such brilliant results, as
+some of those I have mentioned. The Market Square (of which an
+illustration is given) is the largest in South Africa, covering an area
+of 1,300 feet in length, and 300 feet in width. Some idea of the growth
+of Johannesburg may be gathered from the fact, that at the latter part
+of the year 1886 there was not a Post Office in existence, whilst the
+revenue of that department for the first quarter of 1887 was &pound;167, and
+at the end of 1888 it had risen to &pound;7,588.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image04" name="image04">
+   <img src="images/04.jpg"
+      alt="JOHANNESBURG MARKET PLACE."
+      title="JOHANNESBURG MARKET PLACE." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">JOHANNESBURG MARKET PLACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This extraordinary and rapid growth has unfortunately produced the usual
+results, when an immense population is suddenly planted on a limited
+area, without any proper sanitary<span class="pagenum"><a id="page58" name="page58"></a>Pg 58</span> arrangements being provided for their
+protection. From its elevated situation and naturally pure and dry
+atmosphere, Johannesburg ought to be a very healthy town. That it
+notoriously is not so, and that the amount of sickness and death-rate
+from fever and other diseases is abnormal, must, undoubtedly, be
+attributed to the great neglect and utter absence of an efficient system
+of drainage. I fear this state of things will continue; and the
+certainty of serious increase, as the population continues to grow
+rapidly, is only too likely, until there is established some kind of
+municipal body, acting under Governmental authority, to adopt a thorough
+and complete system of sanitation. It is to be hoped that the Transvaal
+Government, which is having its treasury so rapidly filled from the
+pockets of the British population, which is pouring into Johannesburg,
+as well as into so many<span class="pagenum"><a id="page59" name="page59"></a>Pg 59</span> other towns in the Transvaal, will awake in
+time to the importance of taking measures for thoroughly remedying this
+great and glaring evil, which is becoming such a scandal, as well as
+creating such widely spread and justifiable alarm among the British
+community in the Transvaal.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/03de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page60" name="page60"></a>Pg 60</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="PRETORIA" name="PRETORIA">
+   <img src="images/02de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>PRETORIA.</h2>
+
+
+<p>From Johannesburg I proceeded to Pretoria, a distance of about
+thirty-five miles, through a fine, and bold, and sometimes pretty
+country. Some of the views on the way were extensive and picturesque.
+Pretoria itself is an exceedingly pretty town, situated at the base of
+the surrounding hills. There is a continuous, and most abundant supply
+of water running through all the principal streets. Here, again, I was
+forcibly reminded of the absence of any municipal body&mdash;although
+Pretoria is the seat of Government&mdash;for dealing with the sanitary and
+other wants of the town.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page61" name="page61"></a>Pg 61</span> The dust, every day (as at Johannesburg), was
+intolerable, although, with the abundance of water flowing unceasingly
+through the streets, it would be the easiest thing in the world to apply
+it, as much as could possibly be wanted, to water them, and keep the
+dust down. I remained for three weeks at Pretoria. While there I
+attended some meetings of the Volksraad, accompanied by a Dutch friend
+who kept me <i>au fait</i> of the proceedings by translating to me the
+speeches of the various members, on the subjects under discussion.</p>
+
+<p>The debates are held in a very large, somewhat low-pitched apartment.
+About fifty members were present. The President of the Volksraad sat at
+a table on a platform, covered with green cloth. On one side of him, at
+the same table, sat Paul Kruger, the President of the Transvaal
+Republic. General<span class="pagenum"><a id="page62" name="page62"></a>Pg 62</span> Joubert&mdash;who defeated the English at Majuba Hill&mdash;sat
+at a separate table on the left of the chairman.</p>
+
+<p>I was also present, more than once, at the sittings of the High Court of
+Justice. The proceedings are conducted both in English and Dutch.</p>
+
+<p>By the courtesy of the Chief Justice, I was introduced by him at a
+special interview, which lasted half-an-hour, to Paul Kruger. During our
+conversation, which was carried on by my speaking in English, translated
+into Dutch by the Chief Justice, I referred to the fact of my having
+been introduced to him in England some years ago. I went on to speak of
+my having come from England to South Africa to learn. That I had already
+learned much, and that I was much pleased with all I had seen,
+especially in the Transvaal, which seemed to me a country teeming with<span class="pagenum"><a id="page63" name="page63"></a>Pg 63</span>
+riches and great natural resources. That I was a great friend to
+railroads, and that I was never in a country which I thought required
+railroads so much as the Transvaal. I expressed a hope, therefore, to
+see the day when the country would be penetrated by them in every
+direction&mdash;east, and south, and west. The President smiled at my
+strongly expressed aspiration, but did not give me any other reply.</p>
+
+<p>Like every other town in the Transvaal, Pretoria shows signs of
+rapidly-growing prosperity. Public buildings and private dwelling-houses
+are springing up in every direction. The Post Office, recently finished,
+is capacious and commodious; and the new Government buildings for the
+accommodation of the Volksraad and the Courts of Justice, already
+commenced, but, as yet, only a few feet from the ground, and which cover
+a very large<span class="pagenum"><a id="page64" name="page64"></a>Pg 64</span> space, promise to be very fine and imposing. While at
+Pretoria I had ample opportunity for observing many of the prevalent
+features of both political and social life, and especially of the
+condition of the large native population of the town.</p>
+
+<p>The Pretoria winter races took place during my stay there. The races
+were very good and well-conducted. There was a large and orderly crowd
+who appeared thoroughly to enjoy themselves, and their outing in that
+fine and sunny climate. The Racecourse seemed a good one, though rather
+hard owing to the dry weather. It is in a very pretty spot with
+picturesque surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>The Kafirs, who are employed in great numbers, and who are earning high
+wages at their various occupations, are always to be seen, either
+working hard, or, after the hours of labour are over, amusing
+themselves<span class="pagenum"><a id="page65" name="page65"></a>Pg 65</span> cheerfully, chatting at street corners, walking, gossiping,
+and talking, and gratifying themselves by giving vent to their very
+voluble tongues. Here also, as at Johannesburg, at Potchefstroom, and at
+Klerksdorp, I was forcibly struck with the large amount of English
+spoken, as well as of the number of English names over the various shops
+in the Transvaal towns. This is an interesting and important fact, which
+marks the tendency of the direction of future development. The country
+must certainly become more and more anglicised, in spite of the
+political efforts made to oppose it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/13de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page66" name="page66"></a>Pg 66</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="WATERBURG" name="WATERBURG">
+   <img src="images/10de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>WATERBURG.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I left Pretoria on July the 17th in a wagon with eight horses,
+accompanied by two friends, for an excursion into the Waterburg district
+of the Transvaal. On this occasion we travelled about one hundred and
+fifty miles north of Pretoria in the course of a fortnight, returning
+about the same distance back again. We had a half-breed servant named
+Sole with us, who made himself generally useful during our journey. All
+this time we camped out day and night, sleeping always in the open
+veldt, in true gipsy fashion.</p>
+
+<p>We went by the Van der Vroom Poort,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page67" name="page67"></a>Pg 67</span> having the Maalieburg range of
+mountains on our left.</p>
+
+<p>Our first night was spent at a farm called "Polonia," belonging to a
+Russian Missionary who has been for many years in the Transvaal. He
+unites the pursuits of spiritual instruction according to the tenets of
+the Greek Church, with farming on a large scale. On leaving "Polonia" we
+passed the large and picturesque German Mission Station of "Hebron,"
+which is situated in the midst of a rich and fertile valley. One night
+we outspanned at a spot called the "Salt Pans." While breakfast was
+being prepared the next morning, I walked to see those wonderful "Salt
+Pans," which were close to our camping ground. I descended by a steep
+path some six hundred or seven hundred feet to the bottom. It is an
+immense amphitheatre at the base of thickly wooded hills. It is larger
+in extent than the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page68" name="page68"></a>Pg 68</span> vast open excavation formed by the "Kimberley" Mine
+at Kimberley. The salt and soda brine is perpetually oosing from the
+bottom, and is continually being scraped up with a sort of wooden
+scraper into heaps, where, after a time, by the action of the
+atmosphere, it becomes crystallised. I picked up and brought away with
+me several crystals of pure salt. This is another of the marvels of the
+Transvaal, a country which abounds in natural wealth of all kinds,
+fitted for the service of man. These Salt Pans are the property of the
+Transvaal Government, which derives a considerable income from the tax
+imposed for taking away the salt, and soda, from them.</p>
+
+<p>Frequently during our journey we outspanned just outside the Kafir
+kraals, and often entered into them; one of my companions speaking the
+native, as well as the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page69" name="page69"></a>Pg 69</span> Dutch languages very fluently. We were always
+received by both Boers, and Kafirs, very kindly. Sometimes we were
+accompanied by a large number of Kafirs for days. I remember once,
+counting as many as forty Kafirs sitting round our camp fire, clothed
+and unclothed, and in every variety of costume, from the old British
+Artillery tunic to the equally ancient pea coat, the bright-coloured
+blue morning jacket, and the cloak of Jackall skins. On this occasion
+they remained all night with us, keeping up the fire and indulging in
+endless and cheerful talk among themselves. When I wrapped myself in my
+kaross and turned into the wagon at night I left them talking. When I
+awoke in the early morning I found them talking still.</p>
+
+<p>The country I saw in the Northern part of the Transvaal is very
+different, and far<span class="pagenum"><a id="page70" name="page70"></a>Pg 70</span> more picturesque than it is in the South-West or
+South-East, which have a close resemblance to one another, in their
+bare, barren, treeless, and dreary character. I saw some parts which
+were really beautiful. One day we drove for several miles through quite
+lovely scenery. In passing along the road I was forcibly reminded of the
+road between Braemar and Mar Lodge, in Aberdeenshire, which it strongly
+resembles. The road runs on the side of the hill, sloping down to the
+rivulet at the bottom, exactly like the river Dee, and the Rooiburg, or
+red tinted, Mountain, exactly resembles the heather on the Scottish
+hills. It is altogether a charming spot, and a perfect picture of fine
+scenery. There is a large quantity of excellent and valuable timber in
+this district, as well as abundant evidence of mineral-bearing quartz. I
+believe that, some day, other Johannesburgs are destined<span class="pagenum"><a id="page71" name="page71"></a>Pg 71</span> to rise in the
+Northern part of the Transvaal, rivalling, or perhaps even eclipsing,
+the treasures already discovered in the Randt.</p>
+
+<p>At the spot I have described, which is called Hartebeestepoort, not far
+from the banks of the Zand River, where there is a good quantity of
+excellent and valuable timber, there was quite a romantic scene one
+night. We were discussing, as usual, our evening meal round our camp
+fire. It was starlight, but otherwise we were in total darkness. In
+addition to ourselves, there were nine Kafirs, making a party of a dozen
+altogether. It was an intensely interesting and remarkable scene to me,
+to find myself surrounded by these wild fellows in perfectly friendly
+fashion, in the midst of the vast veldt, the silence and stillness only
+broken every now and then by the cry of the jackals howling in the
+distance.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page72" name="page72"></a>Pg 72</span> On leaving here we travelled north towards Grouthoek, which
+is situated in the midst of the Rhynoster range of mountains, being
+drawn by oxen, our horses following us, in order to give them rest, and
+so keep them fresher.</p>
+
+<p>I was disappointed at the small quantity of game we found on our
+journey. We occasionally shot a springbok, and I thus had an opportunity
+of making myself acquainted with the delicious flavour of the South
+African venison. But the days of the enormous herds which once abounded
+in these regions are gone. They have been either exterminated by the
+Boers, or been driven far northward, into the interior of Africa,
+together with the lions and elephants, over whose former habitation I
+was travelling. There are still a good many koodoos, and hartebeestes in
+this neighbourhood, but I was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page73" name="page73"></a>Pg 73</span> not fortunate enough to come across them.
+Our commissariat was occasionally supplemented by a delicious bird,
+about the size of a pheasant, called the kooran, as well as by a few
+pheasants, partridges, and guinea fowls.</p>
+
+<p>One afternoon we were exposed to a thrilling adventure, which, but for
+the merciful interposition of Providence, might have terminated in a
+most disastrous way. Suddenly, as we were driving along the road,
+through a dense wood, we discovered to the right of us the light of an
+immense bush fire. It was careering wildly along, fiercely burning, and
+sweeping everything before it. We saw it was coming swiftly towards the
+road we were travelling. We pulled up the horses, and taking out lucifer
+matches, jumped off the wagon, and tried to set alight to the grass,
+which was about five or six feet high, and very dry, close by us, in
+order to secure a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page74" name="page74"></a>Pg 74</span> clear open space around us. But it was too late. The
+fierce fire, to the height of several feet, was rushing and crashing
+through the wood furiously towards us. Another moment, and we should
+have been within its terrible grasp, and wagon, horses, and ourselves
+infallibly burnt. It was in truth an awful crisis. We jumped back into
+the wagon and pushed frantically forward. Showers of sparks were already
+in the road. But, fortunately, the fire, which for a full half mile was
+burning behind us, was only a short distance in front of us, and, thank
+God, we happily escaped.</p>
+
+<p>One of the great advantages I have derived from my tour is, that I have
+had many opportunities of communicating personally with so many men of
+different races, and all classes&mdash;British, Dutch, and natives.</p>
+
+<p>During my present journey I had a most interesting conversation one
+morning with a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page75" name="page75"></a>Pg 75</span> transport driver, who was travelling by the northern
+part of the Transvaal, with three hundred lean cattle from the Cape
+Colony into Bechuanaland. He gave me some very valuable and important
+information with regard to Colonial feeling in the country districts of
+the Cape Colony. He was Colonial born, and a fine, handsome man of about
+forty&mdash;a descendant of the Scotch farmers, who emigrated to the Cape in
+1820. His conversation impressed me much. He told me that the Colonists
+generally are loyal to the Queen to the backbone; but not to the British
+Government, which they consider has not represented their feelings and
+opinions, and has sacrificed their interests. They dislike the Colonial
+Government, and are not favourable to responsible Government, as they
+see it.</p>
+
+<p>They would prefer being under the British Government direct, in spite of
+all its terrible<span class="pagenum"><a id="page76" name="page76"></a>Pg 76</span> mistakes and mishaps, from which they have so cruelly
+suffered. My informant's opinion was, that the present policy of the
+administration in Bechuanaland is not conducive to encourage emigration,
+as it puts artificial impediments in the way of farmers with small means
+settling there, which, he thought, they would do in crowds from the
+Colony, if they were allowed to do so on paying a quit rent, say of &pound;10
+or &pound;15 per annum, instead of the high terms of &pound;40 demanded at present.
+He had a very high opinion of Bechuanaland as a cattle-grazing country.</p>
+
+<p>The Waterburg warm sulphur baths&mdash;to which I paid a visit, taking a hot
+bath myself, which was certainly much too hot for me, but which was
+otherwise refreshing, after nearly a fortnight's residence on the veldt,
+where there is a decided scarcity of water, both for drinking and
+washing purposes&mdash;are situated about seventy miles north of Pretoria.
+They<span class="pagenum"><a id="page77" name="page77"></a>Pg 77</span> are extensively patronised by the Boers, and are said to be most
+efficacious in every variety of rheumatic and gouty complaints. They are
+strongly impregnated with sulphur, and might be made very attractive in
+the hands of anyone of enterprise, who would construct a suitable
+establishment of baths, fit for patients who would be quite ready to pay
+handsomely for them, instead of the miserably primitive and wretched
+receptacles, called baths, into which the highly excellent natural
+sulphur water is conveyed, and used by the motley crowd of invalids I
+saw there.</p>
+
+<p>From the Waterburg warm baths our route lay to the southward, across the
+Springbok Flats, to the Nylstroom road, along which, in two days more,
+we accomplished the intervening distance of about seventy miles back to
+Pretoria, thus concluding a most interesting and instructive journey
+into the northern part<span class="pagenum"><a id="page78" name="page78"></a>Pg 78</span> of the Transvaal. During all this time, with the
+exception of the first night, I lived entirely in our wagon, sleeping in
+it every night, and having every meal (which consisted principally of
+the game we shot on the way), cooked at the various camp fires kindled
+on the veldt, and drinking nothing but tea. I saw much, of course, of
+the Kafirs in their kraals, as well as of the Boers in their tents and
+wagons, in my trek through this wilderness.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/07de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page79" name="page79"></a>Pg 79</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="PRETORIA_TO_NATAL" name="PRETORIA_TO_NATAL">
+   <img src="images/08de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>PRETORIA TO NATAL.</h2>
+
+
+<p>After reaching Pretoria, I stayed only two days there, engaged in
+bidding farewell to my numerous friends, and making preparations for my
+next long journey into Natal. I left Pretoria for Johannesburg by coach,
+on the 1st of August, and started from the latter town at five o'clock
+in the morning of the 3rd, in very cold weather and pitch dark, by the
+post cart. This most uncomfortable vehicle is a kind of wagonette, with
+somewhat dilapidated canvas curtains, through which the wind whistled
+most unpleasantly, being utterly insufficient to keep out the cold. It
+is drawn by eight<span class="pagenum"><a id="page80" name="page80"></a>Pg 80</span> horses, and has cramped seats for eight or ten
+passengers. On this occasion there were seven others besides myself. In
+addition the mail bags were crammed inconveniently under the seats. In
+this post cart I travelled for three days and two nights by way of
+Richmond, Heidelburg, Standerton,&mdash;where cattle rearing and horse
+breeding is successfully carried on,&mdash;and Newcastle, which will be
+remembered as having been the base of operations during the Boer war,
+and also as the place where the final treaty of Peace was drawn up and
+signed by the joint Commission, to Eland's Laagte, the present terminus
+of the Natal railway, thirteen miles beyond Ladysmith. At Eland's Laagte
+a very promising coal field is being worked, from which great and
+important results are expected in the future. Soon after crossing the
+Transvaal border we passed the battle fields of Laing's<span class="pagenum"><a id="page81" name="page81"></a>Pg 81</span> Nek, Majuba
+Hill, and Ingogo, names indelibly associated with one of the saddest, as
+well as most humiliating, episodes of English modern military history,
+in connection with the Transvaal War of 1881. I gazed mournfully on
+Majuba Hill, that black spot of bitter memories to every Briton, and of
+natural exultation and pride to the Boers; and on Colley's grave, the
+unfortunate commander, whose unhappy and most unaccountable military
+blunder led to the lamentable and fatal defeat, which cost him his life,
+and resulted in the miserable fiasco&mdash;the retrocession of the Transvaal
+to the Boers. It is impossible to estimate the damage done to British
+influence, prestige, and power by the political consequences resulting
+from that disastrous day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image05" name="image05">
+   <img src="images/05.jpg"
+      alt="CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL."
+      title="CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The south-eastern part of the Transvaal is as bare, and treeless, and
+altogether as uninteresting and unattractive as the south<span class="pagenum"><a id="page82" name="page82"></a>Pg 82</span> western
+region, between Bechuanaland and Klerksdorp, through which I had
+travelled a few weeks previously. The instant, however, the border is
+crossed, and Natal is entered, the scene is at once changed, and the
+beauty of the surrounding country becomes apparent. Instead of the flat,
+wearisome desert of the Transvaal, undulating hills, clothed with
+verdure, and an extensive panorama of broad and fertile plains meets the
+eye.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/09de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image06" name="image06">
+   <img src="images/06.jpg"
+      alt="GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG."
+      title="GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter"><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page83" name="page83"></a>Pg 83</span></p>
+   <a id="MARITZBURG" name="MARITZBURG">
+   <img src="images/01de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>MARITZBURG.</h2>
+
+
+<p>After leaving Ladysmith, I proceeded to Maritzburg, the seat of
+Government of Natal. This picturesque town is in a charming situation,
+the surrounding scenery being extremely pretty. The town itself, is well
+laid out, the streets being wide, and in most cases edged with trees.
+Amongst its public buildings may be mentioned the new House of Assembly,
+of which Sir John Akerman is Speaker. It is a handsome edifice, well
+arranged, and economically constructed at a cost of &pound;20,000. A life-size
+statue of Her Majesty is to be erected in the front of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page84" name="page84"></a>Pg 84</span> building,
+the pedestal of which is already <i>in situ</i>.</p>
+
+<p>While staying at Government House, and enjoying the kind hospitality of
+Sir Charles and Lady Mitchell, my ear was often gladdened by the sound
+of the cavalry bugle and the roll of the drum, those striking symbols of
+British sway, as the troops passed my window in their early morning
+rides. I am persuaded that these outward evidences of latent power,
+impress not only the minds of Englishmen, but of natives also, in this
+distant land. There cannot be a doubt of the influence exercised by the
+British race over the aboriginal inhabitants of South Africa. That this
+should be used, at all times, with justice, tact, and discretion, "goes
+without saying;" but that it is a factor of great effect on their minds
+is unquestionable.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image07" name="image07">
+   <img src="images/07.jpg"
+      alt="A STREET IN MARITZBURG."
+      title="A STREET IN MARITZBURG." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">A STREET IN MARITZBURG.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter"><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page85" name="page85"></a>Pg 85</span></p>
+   <a id="DURBAN" name="DURBAN">
+   <img src="images/12de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>DURBAN.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The railway journey from Maritzburg to Durban, a distance of fifty-seven
+miles by road, is long and rather tedious travelling on account of the
+slow pace. The line (a single one), which seems to have been very
+skilfully engineered, is necessarily constructed with such steep
+gradients that this seems inevitable. The long stoppages at stations
+might be certainly improved. Durban is the prettiest as well as one of
+the cleanest, and most well-ordered towns I have seen in South Africa. I
+was at once struck with the Town Hall, a magnificent building, recently<span class="pagenum"><a id="page86" name="page86"></a>Pg 86</span>
+erected, and generally stated to be, although not the largest, in some
+respects the handsomest in South Africa. The total cost of construction
+was about &pound;50,000, and it is worthy of note that in their selection of
+an architect, the Corporation of Durban did not have to go beyond their
+own town, an efficient man being found in Mr. P.M. Dudgeon. The building
+is of the Corinthian order of architecture, having a frontage of 206
+feet, with a depth of 270 feet. It is prettily situated, and is a
+striking proof of what colonists can do when an occasion demanding
+skill, and perseverance, arises. There are several other fine buildings
+in the town. A stranger coming from the Transvaal is immediately
+impressed with the contrast between the careless indifference, which
+marks the absence of proper municipal arrangements in the towns of the
+South African Republic,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page87" name="page87"></a>Pg 87</span> and the proofs of their presence in an
+energetic British community. The Natalians certainly deserve the
+greatest credit for the way in which they carry on the business and
+manage the public affairs of their prosperous, and thriving town, which
+has a population of 17,000, of whom about 9,000 are Europeans. Recent
+commercial returns show that the trade of Natal, of which Durban, as the
+seaport town, is the centre, is rapidly increasing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image08" name="image08">
+   <img src="images/08.jpg"
+      alt="TOWN HALL, DURBAN."
+      title="TOWN HALL, DURBAN." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">TOWN HALL, DURBAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The imports during the first three-quarters of the year 1888 were about
+two millions; and in 1889, during the same period, they had risen to
+three millions. The exports during 1888 were one million; for the same
+period in 1889 they were one million and a quarter. Imports have
+advanced 50 per cent., exports by 25 per cent. Customs revenue has
+advanced by 25 per cent., and if the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page88" name="page88"></a>Pg 88</span> receipts be maintained, which is
+more than probable, the total income for the year from this source will
+reach &pound;350,000. It is anticipated that the combined trade of Natal for
+the year 1889 will not be far short of six millions sterling. The
+increase is a substantial one, and, what is more satisfactory, is that
+there appears to be every reasonable prospect that the trade will go on
+increasing by leaps and bounds. Affairs are in a generally prosperous
+state, and a good sign is to be found in the fact that the emigration
+returns are also rapidly rising.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image09" name="image09">
+   <img src="images/09.jpg"
+      alt="HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN."
+      title="HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The gigantic Harbour Works, commenced and now nearly successfully
+completed for the purpose of removing the bar, according to the plans
+both of Sir John Coode, and subsequently of his pupil, their late
+lamented engineer, Mr. Innes, and under the active personal
+superintendence of their distinguished townsman<span class="pagenum"><a id="page89" name="page89"></a>Pg 89</span> the Chairman of the
+Harbour Board, comprise an undertaking of which the citizens of Durban
+may well be proud. Nor is less credit due to them, and to their spirited
+leaders, for their enterprise in so rapidly pushing on their railway to
+the Transvaal border, in the confident expectation that they will be the
+first to bring the benefits of that most necessary modern mode of
+conveyance, both for passengers and goods, into the heart of the
+Transvaal Republic.</p>
+
+<p>The Harbour Works, the Railway, and the Durban Town Hall are all works
+of sufficient magnitude to give undoubted evidence of the public spirit
+and unconquerable energy of the people of Natal.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Durban are fortunate in possessing picturesque
+surroundings to their pretty town. The "Berea," one of its most
+attractive spots, is an elevated suburb where<span class="pagenum"><a id="page90" name="page90"></a>Pg 90</span> many of the principal
+merchants, and others have their residences. It commands a lovely
+prospect over the bay, and a beautiful view of the country inland.</p>
+
+<p>During, my stay at Durban I paid visits to two of the most remarkable
+places in the neighbourhood. These were the Natal Central Sugar
+Company's manufactory at Mount Edgcumbe, and the famous Trappist
+establishment at Marionhill. The sugar manufactory is situated on a farm
+of some 8,000 acres, about 15 miles from Durban. A short railway ride
+brought me to it. I was courteously received by the manager, Monsieur
+Dumat. This gentleman, a Frenchman of great experience in the
+manufacture of sugar both in India and Mauritius, has been at Mount
+Edgcumbe for the last ten years. He is remarkable for the way in which
+he maintains order and control over all his numerous native workmen. In<span class="pagenum"><a id="page91" name="page91"></a>Pg 91</span>
+the mill itself there are 160 men employed, everyone of whom is a
+Coolie. There is not a single white man on the premises, excepting two
+English clerks in the counting house. I was astonished at the perfect
+order which reigned in the mill, where I spent some time. Everyone
+appeared to perform his allotted task with activity, cheerfulness, and
+untiring perseverance. Monsieur Dumat told me he could never get the
+same steady work from white workmen. He seems to govern them all with
+perfect tact and kindness. Some of them have been with him for many
+years. There are about 900 other men, Kafirs and Coolies, employed on
+the farm. I was shown all the various processes of sugar manufacture,
+from the crushing of the cane, to the crystallising of the sugar. The
+first sorts are ready for sale in forty-eight hours; other qualities
+require a week, and again even as much as six months<span class="pagenum"><a id="page92" name="page92"></a>Pg 92</span> to perfect them.
+There is some wonderful machinery in the mill.</p>
+
+<p>The Trappist establishment at Marionhill is one which should be seen by
+everyone visiting Natal. It is reached by rail from Durban in about an
+hour's ride to the Pine Town station. A drive from thence of about four
+miles brings a visitor to Marionhill. The monks, as is well known, are
+under a vow of strict silence. I was met by one of them at the station,
+who drove me in a waggonette to the Trappist farm. Here I was met by,
+and presented to, the Abbot. He is the real leader and director of this
+remarkable establishment. He devoted three hours to taking me over it,
+and showing me all the various industries and works which are carried
+on. About two hundred brothers are there at present, but more are
+expected shortly, and upwards of one hundred sisters, and about three
+hundred Kafirs. The latter are taught,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page93" name="page93"></a>Pg 93</span> not only the ordinary branches
+of a practical education (of course including religion), but all sorts
+of handicraft. It is, emphatically, a school of technical education.
+Everything is manufactured and made at Marionhill, from the substantial
+bullock wagons, and the delicate spiders, to the baking of bread, the
+building of houses, stables, and cattle lairs, the printing of
+periodicals, and book-binding. Work is the great and leading feature of
+the Trappist creed. The motive power is religion. Its controlling
+influence is here complete.</p>
+
+<p>I came away quite amazed at all I saw, as well as pleased at the
+attention I received from the Abbot. He is certainly a very remarkable
+man, of great natural gifts, and indomitable energy and power. He is
+sixty-five years of age. He was born on the shores of Lake Constance;
+and before he took to studying for the Roman Catholic Church in a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page94" name="page94"></a>Pg 94</span>
+German University, he was employed, as he told me, in early life in the
+care of cattle at his native home.</p>
+
+<p>The Trappist farm is beautifully situated, and within its area contains
+some really fine scenery. The Kafir women's part of the establishment is
+distinct, and quite half a mile distant from the men's quarters. Women
+are taught to sew, and sing, to cut out and make dresses, to cook,
+clean, and go through all the usual routine of household work. The
+costume of the female Trappists, who, as well as the male, are highly
+educated, is scarlet serge, with white aprons. The men are clothed in
+brown serge.</p>
+
+<p>I was struck with the admirable arrangement of the stables, constructed
+for twenty horses, and of the cow and cattle sheds. All the engineering
+works also show evidences of the complete knowledge of science possessed
+by the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page95" name="page95"></a>Pg 95</span> "brothers," and their energetic leader. I came away much
+interested, and wonderfully impressed with all I had seen in this
+remarkable institution.</p>
+
+<p>Up to the present time the defences of the Colony have been in a very
+backward state but I was glad to find that a battery is in course of
+construction, commanding the entrance to the Bay, which is to be armed
+with guns of the latest pattern, one of them having recently arrived at
+Durban.</p>
+
+<p>Having passed ten very pleasant days at Durban and its neighbourhood, I
+embarked, on the 15th of August, on board the coasting steamer,
+<i>Anglian</i>, for Port Elizabeth. I had a terrible experience of the
+annoyance of the present mode of embarking passengers at Durban. After
+attempting to get over the Bar in a tremendous sea, we were obliged to
+put back into the Harbour thoroughly drenched. Once more<span class="pagenum"><a id="page96" name="page96"></a>Pg 96</span> attempting it,
+we succeeded after another good wetting in getting alongside the
+<i>Anglian</i>, where we remained at anchor until the morning, waiting for
+the Cargo Boat we were obliged to leave behind, rolling and pitching all
+night. The eastern coast of South Africa is subject to weather which is
+often very rough and stormy; and I was, unluckily, destined to
+experience it. I certainly had a most disagreeable time, in making this
+short voyage. After touching at East London, where extensive harbour
+works are being constructed, I was landed at Port Elizabeth (after three
+days' knocking about at sea) on the 18th, being let down, like St. Paul,
+in a basket, from the deck of the <i>Anglian</i> to the tug, which took me to
+the pier in the open roadstead. Right glad was I to get on <i>terra firma</i>
+again.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page97" name="page97"></a>Pg 97</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="PORT_ELIZABETH" name="PORT_ELIZABETH">
+   <img src="images/02de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>PORT ELIZABETH.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay) which is generally known as the "Liverpool"
+of South Africa, is the chief seaport of the Eastern Province, its trade
+being steadily increased by the development of the Transvaal Gold
+Fields, and the growth of the interior towns of the Cape Colony. It is a
+thriving business town. Its inhabitants, like those of Natal, are
+thoroughly energetic and active in the pursuit of their various
+mercantile avocations, and number about 12,000, a large proportion being
+Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>The town contains many fine buildings, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page98" name="page98"></a>Pg 98</span> most conspicuous being the
+Town Hall and Public Library combined, which is a striking edifice,
+erected at a cost of &pound;26,000. Attached to it is the market, leading out
+of which is a splendid and capacious hall, 180 feet long by 90 feet
+broad. Here I saw a curious and unique scene. Long tables were extended
+along its entire length, on which were arranged large heaps of ostrich
+feathers, carefully tied up, and sampled for sale. Port Elizabeth is the
+staple market for this industry. The value of the feathers I saw, I was
+told, was something fabulous.</p>
+
+<p>Port Elizabeth is a handsome town. In the upper part of it, called the
+Hill, there are many good private residences, and an excellent club
+house, at which I stayed, and enjoyed the kind hospitality, courteously
+extended to me.</p>
+
+<p>A large, well kept, and conveniently laid<span class="pagenum"><a id="page99" name="page99"></a>Pg 99</span> out botanical garden, which
+is much resorted to, is a great attraction to the town. There is also an
+excellent hospital at Port Elizabeth. I was much pleased with its
+appearance, and with the arrangements made for the comfort of the
+patients. The ventilation struck me as being particularly perfect. There
+is accommodation for 100 patients, male and female. A well-arranged
+children's ward, attracts much attention, especially with the lady
+visitors.</p>
+
+<p>There is, in addition, a good water supply obtained from Van Staden's
+River, distant about twenty-seven miles from the town, at a cost of
+about &pound;150,000.</p>
+
+<p>There are several Churches, including Trinity Church, St. Augustine's
+Roman Catholic Cathedral, the Scottish Presbyterian Church, and a
+Congregational Church, upon which no less a sum than &pound;7,715 was
+expended.</p>
+
+<p>Previously to leaving Port Elizabeth, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page100" name="page100"></a>Pg 100</span> following address was
+presented to me by the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute resident
+there:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>TO SIR, FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.,</p>
+
+<p><i>A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute.</i></p>
+
+<p>"SIR,</p>
+
+<p>"We, the undersigned Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute, take
+advantage of your presence amongst us to join in the expression of
+hearty welcome to South Africa, which has greeted you in the
+several towns where you have met the Members of the Institute, with
+which you have been so long and honourably connected.</p>
+
+<p>"We are mindful of the valuable services which you have so long
+rendered to our Institute, as Honorary Secretary, the indefatigable
+zeal ever displayed by you in forwarding the interests of the
+Colonies of Great Britain; and that the success of the
+Institution,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page101" name="page101"></a>Pg 101</span> over which you now preside, as one of the
+Vice-Presidents, is in no small degree due to your exertions. We
+venture to hope that your visit to South Africa has been an
+agreeable one, and that with renewed health you will return home to
+resume and continue the valuable services you have heretofore
+rendered, and that the Royal Colonial Institute may continue to
+flourish under the auspices of the distinguished men who so ably
+guard its interests."</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/03de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page102" name="page102"></a>Pg 102</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="GRAHAMSTOWN" name="GRAHAMSTOWN">
+   <img src="images/04de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>GRAHAMSTOWN.</h2>
+
+
+<p>While I was at Port Elizabeth I paid a flying visit to Grahamstown. A
+railway journey of rather over one hundred miles carried me there. The
+railway runs through the veldt, where wild elephants are still strictly
+preserved. There are said to be more than one hundred of these animals
+in the district. They occasionally do great damage to the line. During
+my stay I was hospitably entertained by the Bishop. I had already heard
+that Grahamstown was noted for its natural charms, and its appearance
+certainly did not disappoint me. Beautiful in situation, it merits the
+high praises which have been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page103" name="page103"></a>Pg 103</span> bestowed upon it. It has also acquired a
+reputation for being the seat of learning, and the centre of the
+principal educational establishments of the Colony. The Bishop having
+kindly provided me with a carriage, I drove to see the various objects
+of interest in the neighbourhood. I first went to the Botanical Gardens,
+which are very striking. They contain a large collection of rare and
+valuable specimens of both arboriculture and horticulture. They are
+admirably kept, and are very ornamental. I next drove round the Mountain
+road. This is a beautiful drive of seven miles back into the town. The
+views of the surrounding country are superb. It is a priceless boon to
+the inhabitants of Grahamstown to possess such an attractive and
+health-giving spot, for their recreation and enjoyment. I afterwards
+visited the Museum, where there is a most interesting and valuable
+collection<span class="pagenum"><a id="page104" name="page104"></a>Pg 104</span> of animal, vegetable, and mineral curiosities, both ancient
+and modern. I also went over the Prison, and recorded in the visitors'
+book my favourable opinion of the arrangements made for the health and
+comfort of the prisoners. They appeared to me to be all that could
+reasonably be expected, or desired. I also went to see the Kafir school,
+carried on under the careful management of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. M&mdash;&mdash;.</p>
+
+<p>I regretted that time did not permit of my visiting the celebrated
+Ostrich Farm of Mr. Arthur Douglass, at Heatherton Towers, about fifteen
+miles from Grahamstown. Mr. Douglass has the largest and most successful
+Ostrich Farm in the Colony, in addition to which he is the patentee of
+an egg hatching machine, or incubator, which is very much used in
+various parts of South Africa. The export of feathers has increased
+rapidly, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page105" name="page105"></a>Pg 105</span> has become one of the chief exports of the Colony, as
+whilst in 1868 the quantity exported was valued at &pound;70,000, in 1887 it
+had reached the value of &pound;365,587. This is by no means the largest
+amount appearing under the head of exports during recent years, as in
+1882 the value of feathers exported was &pound;1,093,989. It is estimated that
+during the past half-century the total weight of the feathers exported
+has been more than one thousand tons. The Cape Colony has, in fact, had
+a monopoly of the ostrich industry, but in 1884 several shipments of
+ostriches took place to South Australia, the Argentine Republic, and to
+California, and the Government of the Cape Colony, being alarmed, that
+the Colony was in danger of losing its lucrative monopoly, imposed an
+export tax of &pound;100 on each ostrich, and &pound;5 on each ostrich egg
+exported.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page106" name="page106"></a>Pg 106</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="PORT_ELIZABETH_TO_CAPE_TOWN" name="PORT_ELIZABETH_TO_CAPE_TOWN">
+   <img src="images/01de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.</h2>
+
+
+<p>On my return to Port Elizabeth, I spent another day or two there, and
+left on the evening of Monday, the 26th of August, by railway for Cape
+Town. This long journey of between eight hundred and nine hundred miles
+occupies nearly two days and two nights. It was the last I took in South
+Africa. The country, generally speaking, is very much of the same kind
+as that northward, over the Karoo, and in the southern part of the
+Transvaal. High land,&mdash;in the neighbourhood of Nieupoort 5,050 feet
+above the sea level,&mdash;flat, bare, and treeless. It is certainly a very
+desolate-looking country to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page107" name="page107"></a>Pg 107</span> travel over in winter. Nearing Cape Town,
+however, I ought not to omit to mention the Hex River Pass. The scenery
+here is certainly very grand, and is some of the best of its kind I have
+seen in South Africa. The railway, which winds through it by a
+succession of zigzags from a great height, is another of the many
+triumphs of engineering skill which are to be found in all parts of the
+world. The fine views of the Pass, when I traversed it, were heightened
+by the tops of the mountains being tinged with a wreath of snow. From
+Hex River the route to Cape Town lay through a rich and fertile valley,
+conveying ample proofs of the agricultural value and resources of this
+part of the Cape Colony. I arrived at Cape Town in the afternoon of the
+following Wednesday. Here I spent another pleasant week, seeing various
+friends.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="image10" name="image10">
+   <img src="images/10.jpg"
+      alt="HEX RIVER PASS."
+      title="HEX RIVER PASS." /></a><br />
+   <span class="caption">HEX RIVER PASS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of the last duties which devolved upon<span class="pagenum"><a id="page108" name="page108"></a>Pg 108</span> me before leaving South
+Africa&mdash;at the urgent invitation of some of my friends&mdash;was to deliver
+an address at Cape Town on Imperial Federation. This I did at the hall
+of the Young Men's Christian Society, to a large and attentive
+audience.<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 4th of September I left Cape Town in the s.s. <i>Athenian</i>; and,
+after a pleasant and rapid voyage of eighteen days, touching only at
+Madeira on the way, I landed safely at Southampton on Sunday the 22nd.</p>
+
+<p>I have now given an account of the prominent features of my tour, during
+which, in the course of five months, I travelled about twelve thousand
+miles by sea, and four thousand by land.</p>
+
+<p>I proceed to touch as briefly as I can, on a few of the public
+questions, and other matters of interest which have arrested my
+attention while I was in South Africa.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page109" name="page109"></a>Pg 109</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="CLIMATE" name="CLIMATE">
+   <img src="images/06de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>CLIMATE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The climate of South Africa has already been so well, and exhaustively
+described, in the admirable and interesting paper, read at a meeting of
+the Royal Colonial Institute, on the 13th November, 1888, by Dr. Symes
+Thompson, that it seems superfluous for anyone to attempt to add
+anything to what such an eminent professional authority has said on the
+subject. But I cannot help remarking that, from my own personal
+experience, I can fully corroborate all he has said in its favour. The
+winter climate seems perfect. The atmosphere is so bright and clear, the
+air is so dry, and the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page110" name="page110"></a>Pg 110</span> sun is so agreeably warm in the day, although it
+is cold and frosty at night, that I think it must be as salubrious, as
+it has been to me most enjoyable. I found this the case everywhere,
+especially in the higher altitudes, and on the elevated veldt of the
+Transvaal. For myself, I never had an hour's illness during the whole
+winter I passed in South Africa; and this I attribute entirely to the
+purity of the air, and the dryness of the climate. One thing it is
+necessary to be cautious about, and I have an impression that it is not
+sufficiently attended to, and is consequently frequently the cause of
+illness, and injury. There is always a sudden great variation of the
+temperature immediately the sun goes down. To a sensitive person this is
+instantly perceptible. In the afternoon everyone ought to be very
+careful in guarding against this change; and should be provided<span class="pagenum"><a id="page111" name="page111"></a>Pg 111</span> with an
+extra garment to put on at sunset, in order to avoid a dangerous chill.
+I strongly advise, also, temperance in the use of alcoholic beverages,
+which, in my opinion, are far too freely consumed. I have noticed too
+much drinking among all classes. This cannot be necessary, or very
+conducive to the preservation of health, and the prolongation of life,
+in a climate like that of South Africa.</p>
+
+<p>It is to be earnestly hoped, that a good, and thoroughly efficient
+system of sanitary organisation may be speedily established in all the
+rapidly-growing towns throughout the country, especially in the
+Transvaal. Terrible neglect in this respect has been the cause of
+exceptional sickness, and great mortality in the past, for which the
+climate is not responsible. In order, too, to render the undoubted
+excellencies of the South African climate more attractive to invalids,
+who ought more largely<span class="pagenum"><a id="page112" name="page112"></a>Pg 112</span> to avail themselves of its advantages, it would
+be an excellent thing, as well as undoubtedly a paying speculation, if
+better hotels, fitted up in all respects with all modern European
+improvements, were established both at Cape Town, and at all the other
+principal towns up country, as well.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/05de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page113" name="page113"></a>Pg 113</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="THE_NATIVE_QUESTION" name="THE_NATIVE_QUESTION">
+   <img src="images/10de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>THE NATIVE QUESTION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The native question is one of the most prominent and difficult ones to
+deal with in South Africa. The great preponderance of the native over
+the white races, and the different theories of treating them prevalent
+between the English and Dutch, render it one of the most perplexing
+problems to solve. The wisest and most experienced people, with whom I
+have communicated on the subject are of opinion that the natives are so
+far behind us in civilisation that they must be regarded as mere
+children. This means, however, that they are not to be treated harshly,
+but, on the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page114" name="page114"></a>Pg 114</span> contrary, with the utmost fairness and justice, and that
+they must be under the guidance of a controlling and firmly governing
+hand. They respect authority, when they have confidence in its being
+exercised with impartiality. They have a great deal of natural
+shrewdness, and they must never be deceived. Alas! I heard of frequent
+instances of this having been done, in times past, by those who have
+represented the British Government. Promises have been made to them
+which have been carelessly broken, and this means ruin to the prestige
+in their minds of the British name.</p>
+
+<p>From the wonderful and ever-increasing development which has taken place
+in the northern part of South Africa since the discovery of diamonds and
+gold, causing the employment of thousands upon thousands of native
+Kafirs at high wages, their social position is being materially changed.
+They are really<span class="pagenum"><a id="page115" name="page115"></a>Pg 115</span> becoming "masters of the situation." Their constant
+contact with white people is having the effect of introducing among them
+the germs of an incipient civilisation. The mode of treating them by the
+British and the Dutch is, undoubtedly, very different. A far harsher and
+more cruel method has been in vogue by the Dutch towards them, than
+would be tolerated by the British. But, from the cause to which I have
+alluded, the day has arrived when all this old system is sensibly
+changing; and the Draconian code of the Boers, from the force of
+circumstances, is becoming modified every day. I have made it my
+business to observe carefully all the signs of the times, on this native
+question during my tour. I have seen the Kafirs in thousands working in
+the mines at Kimberley, and Klerksdorp, and Johannesburg; I have
+observed them in multitudes employed in extensive building<span class="pagenum"><a id="page116" name="page116"></a>Pg 116</span> operations
+at Pretoria, and as labourers on the public works at Maritzburg and
+Durban, and at the other great shipping centres of Port Elizabeth and
+Cape Town; I have noticed them in their capacity of servants in private
+houses, and I frankly confess that no evidence has been brought before
+me to indicate, that they are harshly or unkindly treated. On the
+contrary, it appeared to me that they are receiving good wages, and are
+everywhere well cared for and comfortable. They are naturally a lively
+and a happy race, and I have seen them as cheerful and light-hearted in
+the town, as in their kraals on the wild and open veldt.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/03de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page117" name="page117"></a>Pg 117</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="RAILWAYS" name="RAILWAYS">
+   <img src="images/08de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>RAILWAYS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I have already mentioned that, in my interview with the President, Paul
+Kruger, I told him that I was never in a country, which, in my opinion,
+required railways more than the Transvaal, and that I hoped to see the
+day when it would be penetrated by them in every direction. It is much
+to be regretted that there is so much jealous rivalry, inducing fierce
+contention, as to the precise direction, from the east, or south, or
+west, railroads should enter the Transvaal. I contend, that there is
+such a prospect of future enormous development in this wonderful centre
+of South Africa, that there is no need for all this rivalry, but that
+there is room for many lines in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page118" name="page118"></a>Pg 118</span> which all may participate and prosper,
+in the future. Political considerations have undoubtedly complicated a
+question, which I should wish to regard solely from its commercial
+aspect.</p>
+
+<p>Personally, I am anxious to see the line over the ground which I have
+myself treked, pushed on as speedily as possible, from Kimberley to
+Vryburg, and thence through British Bechuanaland to Mafeking, and so on,
+northwards, into the Matabele country, with branches eastward into the
+Transvaal. But I should like, also, to see the contemplated line
+constructed from Kimberley, through the Orange Free State, to
+Bloemfontein; and the Delagoa Bay Railway carried on to Pretoria, as
+well as the Natal line to Johannesburg; and, in fact, any other, whether
+through Swaziland, or elsewhere, which commercial enterprise may
+hereafter project. They will all have the effect of opening up the
+Transvaal&mdash;the El Dorado of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page119" name="page119"></a>Pg 119</span> South Africa&mdash;and meeting the demand for
+the transit of the enormous traffic, with which the old system of
+bullock wagons is utterly unable to grapple, and which, consequently, is
+so fearfully congested. The transport riders will have ample
+compensation, under the new system, in their increased employment in the
+conveyance of goods from the various stations to their actual
+destination. It was in this way the coach proprietors, without loss, and
+with great advantage to themselves, became the great and successful
+railway carriers, when stage coaches were superseded by railways in
+England.</p>
+
+<p>Since I arrived in England, Sir Gordon Sprigg, in an important speech
+delivered at Kimberley, referred to the question of railway extension
+from that town in the following words:&mdash;"With the South Atlantic Ocean
+for our base, we started with our railway, and then we came up to
+Kimberley.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page120" name="page120"></a>Pg 120</span> From this place we have only fifty or sixty miles to go
+over, and then we come to the border of this province, and of British
+Bechuanaland. Farther north, we get to that ill-defined sphere, called
+the sphere of influence, that extended the power of Britain in South
+Africa, as far as the Zambesi.... Now that we have our railway up to
+Kimberley, we have the British South African Company to take it in hand,
+and the object of the Government is to see that we have an extension
+line into these territories which will, in time to come, be recognised
+as portions of the Cape Colony. Gentlemen, I and my colleagues have come
+to the conclusion, that we cannot better advance the best interests of
+South Africa than by joining hand-in-hand to advance British interests
+westward of the Transvaal State, and right up to the Zambesi. Well,
+then, that being so, I may say, that the first<span class="pagenum"><a id="page121" name="page121"></a>Pg 121</span> object of the Company,
+in order to carry on their operations to the best purpose, is to
+construct a railway from Kimberley to Vryburg. The section from
+Kimberley to Warrenton has, of course, first to be undertaken, and from
+there on to Vryburg, as the second section. The Company are in
+possession of the requisite funds to carry out this great work; and
+there is no reason why it should not be accomplished before many month's
+are over. The Government of this country (Cape Colony) have come to the
+conclusion that it is desirable that this work should be carried out,
+and an arrangement has been made between the Government of this country
+and Mr. Rhodes as representing the British South African Company,
+whereby a railway starting from Kimberley up to Vryburg will be
+constructed by the British South African Company. Certain conditions
+have been entered into between the Company<span class="pagenum"><a id="page122" name="page122"></a>Pg 122</span> and the Government of this
+Colony, under which the Government of the Colony will have the right to
+take over the railway at any time they think proper, on certain
+conditions to be entered into by one side or the other. This railway
+extension is to be immediately proceeded with. You may take it as a
+moral certainty that you will be able to travel by railway up to
+Warrenton, some time in the course of next year. The Government have
+come to the conclusion that it is in the interests of South Africa that
+this work shall be carried on; that, in short, it would be highly
+injudicious to place any obstacles in the way of an undertaking which is
+calculated to have so beneficial an effect on the prospects of this part
+of Her Majesty's Empire." This Speech, coming from the Premier of the
+Cape Colony, requires no comment from me, beyond the expression of my
+satisfaction at its having been made.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page123" name="page123"></a>Pg 123</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="COLONISATION" name="COLONISATION">
+   <img src="images/02de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>COLONISATION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Colonisation is a subject on which I wish to say a few words. The
+definition given by Adam Smith of the three elements of national wealth,
+"Land, Labour, and Capital," cannot be too often repeated. How to blend
+them in proper proportions, is a problem, which has puzzled generations
+of statesmen, philosophers, and philanthropists. I have always been a
+warm advocate for colonisation. It appears to me to be a question of
+such supreme national importance, that I think it ought to be undertaken
+by the State. This, of course, means, that it is possible, as it is
+undoubtedly<span class="pagenum"><a id="page124" name="page124"></a>Pg 124</span> indispensable, to get a Government to act wisely and well.
+In order to have a chance of its being successful, colonisation must be
+conducted on sound principles and practice.</p>
+
+<p>In South Africa I have seen millions of acres of fertile land&mdash;in
+Bechuanaland, in Natal, in the Eastern and Western provinces of the Cape
+Colony, to say nothing of the Transvaal&mdash;capable of supporting many
+thousands of our surplus population. But I have also satisfied myself,
+that it is no use whatever to transplant those, who are unfitted for it.
+Instead of a success, certain failure will be the result of an attempt
+so unwise. Colonial life is alone suitable for the enterprising,
+energetic, steady, and industrious men, and women, who are determined,
+with patience and courage, to overcome the difficulties and trials,
+which they must certainly encounter on the road to ultimate success.
+South Africa is a land of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page125" name="page125"></a>Pg 125</span> promise for them. It is by no means so for
+the feeble, the self-indulgent, the helplessly dependent class, of whom,
+unfortunately, we have so large a number in the over-populated Old
+Country. Cordial co-operation with the self-governing colonies is also
+absolutely indispensable to ensure success in any national system of
+colonisation. It is equally essential that a strict selection of the
+right sort of people should be made. According, too, to their positions
+in life, they must be provided with sufficient means to support them on
+their first arrival, while they are settling themselves, and their crops
+are growing, and they are acquiring knowledge, of the natural conditions
+of the new land, to which they have been transplanted.</p>
+
+<p>These are the principles necessary to be observed in any national system
+of colonisation. They apply to all the other British Colonies,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page126" name="page126"></a>Pg 126</span> equally
+with South Africa, in order to prevent failure, and command success.</p>
+
+<p>While speaking of this subject, I should like to mention a suggestion
+for a system of special colonisation, which may well attract the serious
+attention of the Home Government, with the view of encouraging and
+promoting it.</p>
+
+<p>In the military garrisons, comprising the British troops, quartered in
+South Africa, there are a considerable number of steady, and
+well-conducted married men, non-commissioned officers and soldiers, who,
+having been stationed for some time in the midst of its genial climate,
+and pleasant surroundings, would, I feel satisfied, like, if sufficient
+inducement were offered them, to make South Africa their permanent home.
+If, therefore, a military colony were established at the expense of the
+Home Government in a well and wisely-selected spot and under proper and
+judicious arrangement,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page127" name="page127"></a>Pg 127</span> it would probably be, not only a great boon to a
+number of deserving British subjects, but would be attended with
+success, and be a politic, and interesting factor in the art of
+colonisation.</p>
+
+<p>I earnestly commend the idea to those, who would have to deal with it,
+as an experiment, eminently worthy of their attention and support.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/07de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page128" name="page128"></a>Pg 128</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="THE_POLITICAL_SITUATION" name="THE_POLITICAL_SITUATION">
+   <img src="images/12de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>THE POLITICAL SITUATION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The political situation of South Africa is the last subject to which I
+shall refer. I am quite aware that this is a very difficult and delicate
+question to touch upon, but it would be impossible for anyone like
+myself, to whom it has presented itself so prominently during my tour,
+to avoid some allusion to it. I shall endeavour to state my impressions
+impartially and fairly.</p>
+
+<p>Before I went to South Africa I had formed a general opinion on this
+vitally important and very critical subject. My previous views have been
+most thoroughly confirmed, and painfully<span class="pagenum"><a id="page129" name="page129"></a>Pg 129</span> accentuated by all I have
+seen, and heard, and gathered, on the spot. The mournful mismanagement
+of South African affairs during the last twenty-five years, and most
+especially during the last decade, has been truly lamentable, and cannot
+fail to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton,
+and true-hearted patriot.</p>
+
+<p>The absence of continuous, wise, and statesmanlike policy, which has for
+the most part marked the tone of those, who have had the Imperial
+guidance and control of South African affairs in the past, has had the
+effect of sowing the seeds of enmity to the Government of the Mother
+Country, which it will require all the wisdom, and tact, and
+conciliatory sympathy possible to be displayed in the future, in dealing
+with this magnificent part of the Empire, to allay. It will demand the
+greatest skill to prevent the permanent alienation, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page130" name="page130"></a>Pg 130</span> estrangement of
+South Africa from Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p>This has all been brought about by our unaccountably careless and
+culpable want of accurate knowledge at home, of the actual situation. We
+lost a splendid chance of consolidating South Africa in a homogeneous
+union under the British crown. Our insular in difference, our ignorance,
+the fierce animosity of our party political prejudices, made us neglect
+the opportunity. It has had the effect of creating the sorest feelings
+against us, on the part of the large English population, spread over the
+land, which is uncontaminated and uninfluenced by the party spirit of
+local colonial politicians. It is melancholy, and most deplorable to
+observe the indications of this feeling, which are constantly apparent.
+The old love for the British flag is still widely cherished; but it was
+impossible for me to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page131" name="page131"></a>Pg 131</span> shut my eyes to the evidence so continually
+brought before me, that the British Government is neither loved nor
+respected. No confidence whatever is felt in it&mdash;and no wonder!
+Everywhere there are proofs of how all have been allowed to suffer and
+smart under it.</p>
+
+<p>Either from ignorance, or carelessness, or indifference&mdash;probably from
+all combined&mdash;and perhaps even unconsciously, but at the same time as
+surely, we have deceived the Natives, the Boers, and the Colonists. This
+is only the natural consequence of the feeble, vacillating, uncertain
+course, which is followed, when the State machine is guided without
+compass, and where there is no firmness, nor courage at the national
+helm. What we have to do, however, now, is to advocate union and
+co-operation between the two dominant races&mdash;the British and the
+Dutch&mdash;and to do all we can to promote harmony and goodwill between
+them. True,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page132" name="page132"></a>Pg 132</span> their mental character, and natural instincts are
+different. Our own race is essentially energetic and progressive; while
+theirs is slow, unemotional, and phlegmatic. But if sympathy, and tact,
+and cordial good temper, are invariably practised in our intercourse
+with them, I am persuaded it will ultimately have the effect of
+promoting co-operation in securing their mutual interests. This, I
+trust, will ultimately neutralise the effect of the fatal course of past
+political action, which unnecessarily developed race jealousies, and
+stimulated national friction and animosity; and will bring about in the
+future, a blending of the Dutch in friendly union and fellowship with
+the British, such as has been undreamed of in the past.</p>
+
+<p>Among many expressions of opinion on the subject of the political
+situation made to me while I was in South Africa, I received the
+following communication from a gentleman of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page133" name="page133"></a>Pg 133</span> prominent position in one
+of the principal towns of the Cape Colony. It appears to me of such
+importance that I avail myself of this opportunity of giving publicity
+to it.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The fact of your arrival at very short notice, combined with the
+fact that there are only a few Fellows of the Royal Colonial
+Institute resident here, will probably prevent the presentation of
+any formal address of welcome to you.</p>
+
+<p>"Nevertheless, to a section of the community which is animated by
+patriotic jealousy for the rights and dignity of the Crown
+throughout South Africa, your visit is regarded with feelings of
+genuine satisfaction, and our hopes are encouraged, that your visit
+may result in some good to the cause, which we have at heart.</p>
+
+<p>"You are doubtless acquainted well enough with the principal events
+of great national<span class="pagenum"><a id="page134" name="page134"></a>Pg 134</span> moment of recent years in South Africa. From
+whatever point of view politicians may like to regard the end of
+the Transvaal war, any resident in this country can be only too
+well aware of the fact that one result of that terrible experience
+has been, a material weakening of respect for English people, and
+for the rights of the Crown throughout the Cape Colony.</p>
+
+<p>"Since the period referred to, a very powerful Dutch-Africander
+combination has come into existence, and there can be no doubt but
+that one object of such a body, is the severance of all but nominal
+ties between the Cape, and Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p>"However visionary such hopes as these must for a long series of
+years remain, the fact of their existence, and of their being in a
+variety of ways advanced from time to time, has a very marked
+influence upon all classes of people in this country.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page135" name="page135"></a>Pg 135</span></p>
+
+<p>"For instance, the youth of the country are influenced to hope for
+a time, when they shall be members of an independent State; and
+while on the one hand they may not see any immediate prospect of a
+change in such a direction being effected, nevertheless they lessen
+their interest in, and their respect for, the Crown of England and
+its attributes, and thus grow up comparatively devoid of any sound
+patriotism, even to their native country; and, above all, without
+any touch of that enthusiasm, which is ever engendered by high
+national traditions.</p>
+
+<p>"That some momentous changes are likely to occur in South Africa,
+and that possibly, before very long, all are agreed. The question
+only remains in what direction will these changes tend?&mdash;towards
+some Foreign Continental Power, towards a Confederation with the
+existing Dutch Republics, or in the direction<span class="pagenum"><a id="page136" name="page136"></a>Pg 136</span> of a strengthening
+of the union with England?</p>
+
+<p>"It is sometimes surmised, and this not merely by extreme men, but
+by quiet and experienced observers of events in this country, that
+the large population, mainly British, which has been attracted to
+the Gold Fields of the Transvaal, is unlikely to endure much longer
+the systematic misgovernment and suppression, to which they are
+subjected by men of avowedly anti-English sympathies, and pledged
+to a policy directed to check British progress by all means.</p>
+
+<p>"What form the suggested revolt in the Transvaal may take is not
+likely to be revealed, until some overt step towards its execution
+has been taken. We would all desire that the end in view should be
+secured by peaceful means, and that the Transvaal should become a
+part and parcel of British territory.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page137" name="page137"></a>Pg 137</span></p>
+
+<p>"To effect a revival of loyalty to England in the Cape Colony, and
+to influence the destinies of other States in the direction of
+union with England, should surely be the hope and endeavour of all
+true Englishmen, whether in this Colony, or elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>"And the end in view is not an easy one to attain in a country,
+where the majority of Europeans consider that they, or their
+compatriots, inflicted disgrace, and a permanent loss of influence
+upon the Imperial Troops on the one hand, and the Imperial British
+Government on the other.</p>
+
+<p>"The application of any remedy seems to lie more with the Sovereign
+personally, or Her Majesty's immediate advisers in England, than
+with any Governor, and High Commissioner, or Cabinet of Cape
+Ministers.</p>
+
+<p>"For <i>qu&acirc;</i> Governor, the Queen's Representative at the Cape, is
+necessarily checked, or<span class="pagenum"><a id="page138" name="page138"></a>Pg 138</span> controlled by the Ministry of the day, his
+Constitutional advisers, and the presence in the Cape Parliament of
+a dominant force of the essentially non-English, or Africander
+party, must necessarily also have a very material influence upon
+Ministers, who depend upon a majority of votes for the retention of
+their office.</p>
+
+<p>"In short, the problem in the Cape Colony is one, which happily
+does not exist in either of the other great dependencies of the
+Crown; it is altogether peculiar to South Africa, of which, after
+all, England acquired possession by conquest, and, having acquired
+it, has never completely won the adhesion of the Dutch inhabitants,
+who resent such acts of Government as the abolition of slavery, the
+introduction of the English principle of equality before the law,
+and, above all, an unsettled vacillating policy, which last has the
+worst<span class="pagenum"><a id="page139" name="page139"></a>Pg 139</span> possible effect upon all the nationalities, European, as
+well as native, throughout South Africa.</p>
+
+<p>"The present attitude of even British South Africa, is one, not of
+expectancy, but of slight hope, mingled with distrust, and after
+such conspicuous events as the dismemberment of Zululand, the
+retrocession of the Transvaal, in addition to the ineffective
+efforts towards confederation, he would be a bold man who, as an
+Englishman, would dare assert either that his country protected her
+children, or her dependent races, or that there is any settled
+British policy in the very Continent, where vigour, firmness, and
+consistency, combined with mere justice, seem to be absolutely
+essential.</p>
+
+<p>"South Africa has yet to be won over to England, or, in other
+words, confidence has to be restored. The effort is surely worth
+making, and anything like a determined effort on the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page140" name="page140"></a>Pg 140</span> part of the
+Sovereign, and Her Majesty's immediate advisers would find a most
+vigorous and cordial response.</p>
+
+<p>"The idea of confederation seems to be quite dependent upon such
+preliminaries, as mutual confidence, and a measure of common
+necessity, in order to such a question being seriously entertained.</p>
+
+<p>"The Colonial Conference of two years ago, seems however to have
+paved the way for effective development in the direction of
+confederation.</p>
+
+<p>"For it must be remembered, that the somewhat complex British
+constitution is not the creation of any one Monarch, or Parliament.
+It has grown to its present dimensions little by little, influenced
+always by the necessities of particular cases. The House of Peers
+has ever been summoned by writ, and early precedents indicate, that
+the Sovereign was not always<span class="pagenum"><a id="page141" name="page141"></a>Pg 141</span> limited to a particular class of
+Barons, who alone could be invited to the deliberations of the
+nation.</p>
+
+<p>"Although it is not admitted, it is nevertheless the fact, that, at
+the present time, all who are most anxiously desirous of seeing a
+way to establish a means of drawing together, in Council, the
+Colonies and the Mother Country, are quite disagreed, as to what is
+the best means to this end.</p>
+
+<p>"A formal confederation is desired, but all are agreed upon the
+difficulties which, for the present, at any rate, stand in the way
+of completing an exactly defined treaty, or definition, to
+confederate as between the Mother Country, and the Colonies.</p>
+
+<p>"Perhaps a means to this much-desired end may be discovered, by way
+of less formal, but almost equally effective, courses of policy as
+regards Colonial possessions.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page142" name="page142"></a>Pg 142</span></p>
+
+<p>"Every one feels the difficulty in the way of summoning Colonial
+Representatives to either the House of Lords or the House of
+Commons, for, while special provision would be required to increase
+the numbers of the House of Commons, there are apparent and real
+obstacles in the way of inviting Colonial Representatives to sit in
+the House of Lords, either as ordinary, or as <i>Life</i> Peers.</p>
+
+<p>"It does not seem too much to hope that, before long, the Crown,
+may desire to see assembled in London, during some period of the
+annual session of the Imperial Parliament a Council of Colonial
+Delegates, meeting in a place to be assigned to them, who will have
+no voice in other than Colonial Policy, just as now, the House of
+Lords has no voice in the originating of Money Bills, who will be
+free to discuss any measure affecting Colonial Policy in general,
+or the affairs of any Colony, in particular, who<span class="pagenum"><a id="page143" name="page143"></a>Pg 143</span> will be entitled
+to forward their conclusions, requests, or opinions to Her
+Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, and who
+will constitute a most effective means for ascertaining the current
+of opinion in any particular Colony for the time being.</p>
+
+<p>"The Houses of Convocation might be referred to as an example of an
+extra Parliamentary Body of recognised position in the
+deliberations of the State.</p>
+
+<p>"And, to revert to South Africa, the sympathies, and probably loyal
+adhesion of all the intelligent classes of every nationality, would
+be elicited by nothing more than by the express personal interest
+of the Sovereign, and Her family in the Cape Colony. The occasion
+of the visit of Prince Alfred, when a mere child, elicited
+unbounded demonstrations of enthusiastic loyalty to the Crown, and
+those from Dutch and English alike. The name 'Alfred,' in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page144" name="page144"></a>Pg 144</span> honour
+of His Royal Highness, is to be everywhere met with in connection
+with all sorts of public bodies, Volunteer Corps, and other
+Institutions.</p>
+
+<p>"Personal influence goes for more than all the defined policies of
+successive administrations, or excellent theories of Government. A
+Prince is of more weight than the best of official Governors, and
+it is not likely that in medieval ages, or even at later periods,
+such an appanage of the Crown, as we desire South Africa to become,
+would be unvisited by either the Sovereign, or someone of the
+Sovereign's family. The visit of their Royal Highnesses Prince
+Albert Victor, and Prince George of Wales was limited to a brief
+sojourn at Cape Town, and did not extend to the Colony in general.</p>
+
+<p>"The necessity for the employment, in the interests of the Empire,
+to use the phrase most<span class="pagenum"><a id="page145" name="page145"></a>Pg 145</span> practical,&mdash;uncouth, however, it may
+seem,&mdash;of our Royal Princes appears to be a very decided and
+certain means to the end we have in view, namely, the binding
+together, by means of sympathetic enthusiasm, the Colonies to the
+Mother Country, but most particularly the creating of a healthy
+common accord between South Africa and Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p>"Let any Colony or Dependency feel assured that it is regarded as
+worthy of attention by those nearest to the Crown, and any sense of
+isolation, any suspicion that the people, or their country are
+regarded with any measure of contemptuous indifference must
+forthwith vanish. Sympathy, encouragement, personal contact, seem
+to be essential elements to the solution of what is admittedly a
+problem."</p></div>
+
+<p>I regard this letter of my well informed correspondent as a most
+interesting and truthful expression of wide-spread opinion,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page146" name="page146"></a>Pg 146</span> among the
+intelligent classes of Her Majesty's loyal subjects in South Africa.</p>
+
+<p>I do not believe the South African political problem to be insoluble.
+Two things are required to solve it satisfactorily. For the present,&mdash;I
+quote the eloquent words of a distinguished politician with whose wise
+and noble sentiments I cordially agree&mdash;"what we ought to do in a case
+of this kind is to send out a statesman of the first order of talent,
+patience, and truthfulness, irrespective of politics or prejudice. For
+it is an Imperial problem of the highest importance; and the powers of
+true patriotism and ambition should be amply gratified in dealing with
+it."</p>
+
+<p>And for the future, let me add my own earnest conviction, that what is
+wanted is Imperial Federation, as the goal to be ultimately reached, to
+render South Africa politically satisfied and content.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page147" name="page147"></a>Pg 147</span></p>
+
+<p>Imperial Federation means a constitutional system, under which she would
+be no longer misruled and misunderstood, by a Government, in which she
+has no share, in which she places no confidence, and by whom her wants
+and wishes are often ignored. It is not, as is frequently untruly
+asserted by writers, and speakers, who have neither studied,
+comprehended, nor understood its theory and intention, its end and aim,
+that it means the subjugation of the independence of the Colonies to the
+control of the Mother Country.</p>
+
+<p>As one of its most earnest advocates, I emphatically protest against all
+such erroneous interpretations, as a libel on the principle put forward,
+as a plan for the National Government. On the contrary, the project of
+Imperial Federation, without any <i>arriere pens&eacute;e</i>, clearly and
+distinctly involves the condition, that the Colonies themselves are to
+take their adequate<span class="pagenum"><a id="page148" name="page148"></a>Pg 148</span> part, and share with the Mother Country in its
+future concrete constitution. In the brief, but expressive phrase, I
+have already publicly adopted, Imperial Federation means, "the
+Government of the Empire by the Empire." In Imperial Federation,
+therefore, South Africa would be fairly and influentially represented,
+along with the other Colonies of Great Britain. In union with them she
+would take her part in guiding the policy, and directing the destinies
+of the whole British Empire.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/13de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page149" name="page149"></a>Pg 149</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="APPENDIX_I" name="APPENDIX_I">
+   <img src="images/04de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>APPENDIX I.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The following discussion took place on the paper read by Sir Frederick
+Young, on South Africa, at the opening meeting of the Session of the
+Royal Colonial Institute, on November 12th, at which the Marquis of Lome
+presided:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>PROFESSOR H.G. SEELEY: In common with you all, I have listened with
+great pleasure to this interesting and wide-reaching address. I
+have not myself been so far afield. My observations were limited to
+Cape Colony; and the things which I saw in that Colony were
+necessarily, to a large extent, different from those recorded by
+Sir Frederick Young. On landing at Cape Town I naturally turned to
+what the people of South Africa were doing for themselves, and
+confess I was amazed when I saw the great docks, by means of which
+the commerce of South Africa is being encouraged, and by which it
+will hereafter be developed. I was impressed, too, with the
+educational institutions, the great Public Library, worthy of any
+town, the South African Museum, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page150" name="page150"></a>Pg 150</span> South African College, and the
+various efforts made to bring the newest and best knowledge home to
+the people. But perhaps in Cape Town, the thing which impressed me
+as most curious was the new dock, in process of construction by
+excavating stone for the breakwater and other purposes. This work
+was carried on by coloured convict labour. The convicts thus become
+trained in useful manual work, as well as in habits of obedience,
+and when they are discharged, are not only better men, but people
+in whose work employers of labour have confidence. I learned that
+the great public mountain roads in Cape Colony have thus been
+constructed by convict labour, at a comparatively small cost, while
+the convict acquires skill and useful training. Going up country,
+my attention, among other matters, was turned to the distribution
+of mineral wealth and difficulties of water supply, for, as Sir
+Frederick Young has remarked, the water supply is one of the great
+problems which all persons have to consider in South Africa. The
+season during which rain falls is short, and the rain drains
+rapidly down comparatively steep inclined surfaces, so that science
+of many kinds has to be enlisted to conserve the water, and turn
+the supply to account. I found the rocks of much of the country
+have been curiously compressed and hardened and thrown into
+parallel irregular folds, and that these rocks were afterwards worn
+down by the action of water, at a time when the land was still
+beneath the ocean, with the result that many basin-shaped
+depressions are preserved and exposed, each of which holds a
+certain amount of water. Just as we never dream of putting down a
+well in this country without knowing the positions of the
+water-bearing strata, so it is hopeless to bore profitably for
+water in the Colony till the districts are defined over which the
+water-bearing basins are spread. Nothing arrests the escape of
+water in its course through the rocks more<span class="pagenum"><a id="page151" name="page151"></a>Pg 151</span> efficiently than
+intrusive sheets of igneous rock which rise to the surface, but
+until the distribution of these dykes is systematically recorded it
+will not be possible to open out all the water which is preserved
+underground. There is no doubt that by utilising geological facts
+of this nature, a better water supply may be obtained, which will
+enable more land to be brought under cultivation, and larger crops
+to be raised. I may say that the Colonial Government is fully aware
+of the importance of following out such lines of work, and steps
+are being taken to give effect to such exploration. Vegetation,
+however, by its radiating power, must always be one of the chief
+aids to improved water supply. In the matter of mineral wealth,
+Cape Colony is not so rich as some adjacent lands. It contains
+coal, but the individual beds of coal are thin, and owing to this
+thinness the coal necessarily alternates with shale, which is more
+conspicuous than in the coal fields of Britain. I remember that
+Professor Sedgwick, my old master in geology, told me that in his
+youth seams of coal only some four to six inches thick were worked
+on the sides of hills in Yorkshire, and that the coal was carried
+on horseback over the country to supply the wants of the mountain
+population. Cape Colony is in a far better state than that. In the
+Eastern Province the beds of coal are frequently a foot or two or
+more in thickness. They crop out on the surface with a slight dip
+near to the railway, and although only worked at present in a few
+pits (as at Cyphergat, Fairview, Molteno&mdash;I did not visit the
+Indwe)&mdash;the coal-bearing rocks certainly extend over a much wider
+area of country than that which has been explored. One of the happy
+results at which I arrived in my short visit to this district was
+to find that there are certain extinct forms of reptilian life
+associated with these coal beds, by means of which the geological
+horizon upon which the coal occurs may be traced through the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page152" name="page152"></a>Pg 152</span>
+country; so that there is a prospect of this mineral being followed
+along its outcrop in the Eastern Province with comparative ease by
+this means. It is desirable on all accounts that coal should be
+burned rather than timber, since the destruction of wood is harmful
+to the supply of water. With regard to the gold of Cape Colony, I
+have not the requisite knowledge to speak with the same confidence.
+The quantity in any district is probably small: the amount is great
+in the aggregate, but very widely diffused. Gold appears to be
+present in small amounts in almost all the volcanic rocks, so that
+as those rocks decay and new mineral substances are formed out of
+the decomposed products, the gold which they contained is often
+preserved and concentrated in thin and narrow veins of zeolitic
+minerals, which extend over the surface of these volcanic rocks. To
+what extent these zeolites may be hereafter worked with profit it
+is impossible at present to say, for much may depend upon water
+supply, by means of which the ore would be crushed and washed, and
+much on the varying quantities of gold present in samples from
+different localities. On the whole, the utilisation of science in
+the service of man, especially in relation to metals, coal, and
+water supply, if systematically carried out, will, I believe, be an
+element of future prosperity to Cape Colony, and enable the Colony
+to minister to the welfare of adjacent lands.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. J.X. MERRIMAN: I am sure South Africans are very grateful
+indeed to the amiable and kindly critic in the person of Sir
+Frederick Young. It is no new thing to Colonists to owe him a debt.
+All those present will acknowledge the great things he has done for
+the Colonies in connection with the Royal Colonial Institute. Sir
+Frederick Young is a man who has been content to look after small
+things, and the result is this Institute has been worked up by the
+individual efforts of Colonists and others to its present
+flourishing condition. I hope the Institute will long flourish,
+and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page153" name="page153"></a>Pg 153</span> never be absorbed by anything under more magnificent
+auspices&mdash;in other words, that you will "paddle your own canoe." It
+is good sometimes to have a plain statement from a plain man. South
+Africa suffers under a plague of experts who, after spending a few
+weeks there, tell us exactly what we ought to do; and we don't like
+it. I wish I could speak to you as a sort of amiable critic, but I
+have the misfortune to belong to that much-despised class the local
+politician, and I notice that, when anybody says anything about the
+Colonies in England, all unite in kicking the local politician. In
+order not to sail under false colours, I state frankly that I
+belong to that class. Of course, South Africa is creating a deal of
+interest at the present time. People who come to fortunes usually
+do excite a great deal of interest among relations who may in times
+gone by have given them the cold shoulder. There can be no doubt as
+to the material prosperity of South Africa at the present time, and
+still less doubt as to the future. The gold fields of Witwatersrand
+are unique in the world. This is not my own statement, but the
+statement of eminent mining engineers from America. For thirty
+miles and more you have a continuous stretch of reef, which gives
+throughout a uniform yield per ton, and which has been proved to
+the depth of some hundred feet, and may&mdash;there is every reason to
+believe&mdash;go to unknown depths. The reefs are now being worked in
+the most economical manner. When proper appliances for mining are
+used, and when we get the stock-jobbers off our backs, I believe a
+career of prosperity will open of which few people dream. From
+another point of view, to those who love the country and make their
+home there, there cannot but be a seamy side to the picture. Great
+wealth brings other things in its train. It has brought into South
+Africa a great spirit of gambling. People neglect the honest
+industries of the country: they leave their farm work, and rush off
+to make<span class="pagenum"><a id="page154" name="page154"></a>Pg 154</span> fortunes in a minute. Everybody&mdash;from the king to the
+beggar&mdash;is gambling in gold shares. Everybody neglects his
+business, and talks about nothing else. I ask whether this is a
+wholesome state of society? Is it not a state of society to which
+we may look with some degree of apprehension? I believe myself that
+things will work round, but, undoubtedly, the state of affairs is
+serious. After all, there is something which goes to build up a
+country besides material wealth, and I am not sure that gambling in
+gold shares is exactly the thing which is wanted. Of course, there
+have been other countries where these vast increases of material
+wealth have occurred&mdash;California and Australia&mdash;but there the
+conditions were different. They were new countries, which attracted
+large numbers of white men, and, when they found the gold fields
+did not pay, they made homes for themselves on the land.
+Unfortunately, that state of affairs does not exist at the present
+time in South Africa, and that brings us face to face with the
+great problem on which Sir Frederick Young has touched&mdash;the great
+problem which we have always before us&mdash;viz., how two races utterly
+alien to each other, the black and the white, are to live and
+increase side by side. South Africa is the only country in the
+world where that problem exists, excepting the Southern States of
+North America. This is a great question, on which the future of
+South Africa depends. Unfortunately, the white men do not work in a
+country where the black race flourishes. If the white man does not
+become a "boss," he sinks to the level of a mean white man. The
+difficulty is to get a state of society in which the white race
+shall flourish side by side with the black; and when people talk
+about the "local politicians," the "average Cape politician," and
+the like, they should remember we have to deal with this enormous
+problem&mdash;that we are anxious to do justice to the "black," and at
+the same time we are naturally anxious to see the European
+population<span class="pagenum"><a id="page155" name="page155"></a>Pg 155</span> flourish. I believe the gold fields will attract a
+large European population. The wages are enormous. There are 20,000
+black men, without a stitch upon them, earning as much as eighteen
+shillings a week a-piece, and getting as much food as they can eat,
+in the mines of Johannesburg. People talk about the treatment of
+the blacks. Nobody dares to treat them badly, because they would
+run away. There is a competition for them, and the black man has an
+uncommonly rosy time of it. The white men naturally won't work
+under the same conditions as the blacks. I saw a letter from an
+operative cautioning his fellow artisans against going out. He
+says, "We get thirty shillings a day, but it is a dreadful place to
+live in." I ask the operatives in England to mistrust that
+statement. ("What is the cost of living?") You can live at the club
+very well indeed for &pound;10 a month&mdash;the club, mind you, where the
+aristocracy live. It is idle to tell me the honest artisan cannot
+live. In addition to the black and white population, there is
+another problem, and that is, the influx of Arabs, who creep down
+the East Coast through the door of Natal. They are gradually
+ousting the English retail trader. You may go to up-country towns,
+and in whole streets you will see these yellow fellows, sitting
+there in their muslin dresses, where formerly there were English
+traders. In places where we want to cultivate the English
+population, that is a very serious thing. Our yellow friends come
+under the garb of British subjects from Bombay, and are making
+nests in the Transvaal and elsewhere by ousting the English retail
+trader. Sir Frederick Young has alluded to State colonisation. I am
+sorry to differ from so amiable a critic of our ways, but, as one
+who has had a little experience, I can tell him that you may send
+Colonists out, but you cannot as easily make them stay there. If
+they make their fortunes, they come home to England to spend them.
+If they are poor, and bad<span class="pagenum"><a id="page156" name="page156"></a>Pg 156</span> times come, the black man crowds them
+out, and off they go to Australia. You can depend on a German
+peasant settling, but bring an Englishman or a Scotchman, and he
+wants to better himself. In that he is quite right, but he does not
+see his way on a small plot of ground, and off he goes down a mine,
+or something of that sort. There are great difficulties in the way
+of State-aided emigration. We do not want the riff-raff; we don't
+want the "surplus population." It is one of the greatest
+difficulties to get decent, steady Englishmen to settle on the
+land. It is the people who settle on the land who make a country,
+and if Sir Frederick Young can give us a receipt for making English
+people settle there he will confer one of the greatest possible
+benefits on South Africa. Sir Frederick Young departed from the
+usual custom on such occasions by touching on politics. I am glad
+he did, because more interest is given to the discussion, and there
+is nothing like good, healthy controversy. Sir Frederick Young is
+greatly concerned that there should be a settled policy for South
+Africa. All I can say is, in Heaven's name, don't listen to a syren
+voice of that kind. So surely as you have a settled policy&mdash;some
+great and grand scheme&mdash;so surely will follow disaster and
+disgrace. The people of South Africa may be very stupid, but they
+are very much like other people&mdash;determined to make their policy
+themselves, and the policy of South Africa is not going to be
+framed in Downing Street. I cannot help thinking Sir Frederick
+Young did injustice to some of my friends who have been at the head
+of affairs. "The mournful mismanagement of South African affairs,"
+he says, "during the last twenty-five years, and most especially
+during the last decade, has been truly lamentable, and cannot fail
+to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton
+and true-hearted patriot." But have affairs been mismanaged for the
+last twenty-five years? The revenue<span class="pagenum"><a id="page157" name="page157"></a>Pg 157</span> twenty-five years ago was
+&pound;500,000. It is now nearly &pound;4,000,000. For twenty-five years, under
+the beneficent rule of Downing Street, we had not a mile of
+railway. Now we have 2,000 miles. Twenty-five years ago there was
+no national feeling at all. Now there is a strong South African
+feeling, which is destined to grow and build up a South African
+policy. As to the talk about a settled and firm policy, Sir Philip
+Wodehouse was the last Governor who had a grand scheme from Downing
+Street. A more honest, conscientious, and able man did not exist;
+but his policy was a failure. Then came my friend Sir Henry Barkly.
+His policy was distinctly opposite. It was a true policy for South
+Africa. It was a policy of <i>laissez-faire</i>. The result was, things
+went on as merrily as a marriage bell, Dutch and English drew
+together, the natives were quiet, South Africa was prosperous, and
+everything went on as happily as possible till Mr. Froude and Lord
+Carnarvon hit on the grand scheme of uniting South Africa. From
+that day our misfortunes began. One of the most able, courteous,
+and high-minded gentlemen in the British service&mdash;Sir Bartle
+Frere&mdash;was sent to carry out this firm policy. What was the result?
+Failure. I will say nothing more about it. Then Sir Hercules
+Robinson reverted to the <i>laissez-faire</i> policy. South Africa was
+under a shade&mdash;nobody would look at us. But now we are gradually
+righting ourselves, and getting into a prosperous condition. Now
+are being raised again the cries for a grand policy. I caution you
+against them. Let us manage our own affairs. <i>Laissez faire,
+laissez aller</i>&mdash;that is our policy for South Africa. There are no
+nostrums required. The one thing required is the gradual bringing
+of the Dutch and English together. There are no two races more
+fitted to unite. You know how like they are to Englishmen. The Boer
+is as like the English farmer as possible. There are no people more
+fond of manly sports than the Dutch; they enter into<span class="pagenum"><a id="page158" name="page158"></a>Pg 158</span> them
+heartily, and in the cricket and football fields they are among the
+best players. They are as fond of riding and shooting as Englishmen
+are. In fact, the Dutch and the English are as like as Heaven can
+make them, and the only thing that keeps them apart is man's
+prejudice. The one thing to do is to bring them together. How can
+you help that end? Not by girding at them, and writing against Boer
+ways, but by recognising the fact that they have been pioneers in
+South Africa, and that they are the only people who will settle on
+the land. I see there is a great agitation about Swaziland, which
+is entirely surrounded by the Transvaal Republic. ("No.") Well,
+except as to Tongaland, and I am not going to say anything about
+that. The cry is got up, "Don't hand it over to the Boers." In
+whose interest is that cry got up? It is in the interest of a few
+speculators, and not in the interest of the capitalists, who have
+&pound;108,000,000 invested in the Transvaal, and yet are not afraid to
+trust the Boers with Swaziland. This girding at the Dutch is
+resented, and does incalculable harm. People at home have very
+little idea how much influence public opinion in England has in
+South Africa. Sir Frederick Young has alluded to President Kruger,
+who won't put down prize fights because he might be thought to be
+oppressing the Englishman! All I ask is, don't let your talk about
+union with the Dutch be mere lip service. Trust them; work hand in
+hand with them. Unless you do you will make little progress in
+South Africa. By that I mean political progress. The material
+progress of South Africa is now secured; therefore my advice
+is&mdash;cultivate the Dutch, because, unless they are our friends, we
+shall be a divided people, and our black and yellow brethren will
+get the best of us. Our true policy is, <i>Laissez faire, laissez
+aller</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Sir G. BADEN-POWELL, K.C.M.G., M.P.: My friend, Mr. Merriman, has
+made a speech of the utmost value to South Africa, and it is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page159" name="page159"></a>Pg 159</span> a
+very fitting, I will not say reply, but comment, on the address to
+which we have listened with such pleasure; but Mr. Merriman, with
+his strong arguments and apt illustrations, came at the end to the
+conclusion at which Sir Frederick Young had arrived. I have not
+much to add, but I think we have heard from Sir Frederick Young a
+view of South African affairs on the political side which, I may
+tell you frankly, differs diametrically from my own. I have heard
+from Mr. Merriman a view of affairs in which I cordially concur,
+but from neither have I heard of that third aspect which, I think,
+is necessary to complete the view. Sir Frederick Young has told us
+that for twenty-five years, certainly during the last ten years,
+South Africa has been mismanaged. I must confess I was sorry to
+hear the strong language he used, because one cannot but remember
+that for the greater part of the last twenty years most of the
+affairs of South Africa have been in the hands of free
+self-governing communities. Cape Colony has been under Responsible
+Government since 1873, and the Free State and the Transvaal have
+always been self-governing. I agree with Mr. Merriman that for the
+last twenty-five years affairs in South Africa have progressed,
+with one signal and fatal exception, and that was the policy under
+which we took over and then gave back the Transvaal. Omitting that,
+I think we have but little to be sorry for in the history of South
+Africa. There have been troubles, but I, for one, think that all
+difficulties, would have been avoided if the phrase "Imperial aid"
+had been substituted for that of "Imperial interference" in the
+affairs of South Africa. It is the aid which has been given by the
+Mother Country which has resulted in developing the material
+resources, and, above all, in establishing the security from native
+attack of various European States in South Africa. Sir Frederick
+Young spoke of the attitude towards the Imperial Government. I
+could wish he had been in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page160" name="page160"></a>Pg 160</span> Cape Town on the day Sir Charles Warren
+landed, and seen the ovation he received from all classes. Let me
+add this&mdash;that the Bechuanaland expedition, which was led by Sir
+Charles Warren, and in which I had the good fortune to take part,
+cost the Mother Country perhaps &pound;1,500,000, but in the discussions
+in Parliament or in the press as to the future of Bechuanaland, the
+fact is seldom mentioned that Bechuanaland was acquired for the
+Empire at the cost of the British taxpayer. Let me remind you of
+another fact, which the Cape Colonist well knows&mdash;that when the
+Imperial Government wished, from wise motives of economy, to extend
+the Cape system of railways to Kimberley, at a time when the Cape
+Ministers were not prepared to carry out the extension, the British
+Parliament advanced a loan of &pound;400,000, at a low rate of interest,
+for that object. Another instance I could quote, in connection with
+the history of that interesting native territory&mdash;Basutoland. You
+remember how that country was handed over to the Cape Colonists,
+and that for various reasons the management of the Basutos got
+beyond their power, the result being that the Imperial Government
+went to the aid of the Cape Colony and took back Basutoland. I
+mention these cases because they illustrate an aspect of affairs
+which is, I think, apt to be neglected. We at home&mdash;and certainly
+those who have enjoyed the kind hospitality of their brethren in
+South Africa&mdash;wish to do all we can to aid our fellow-countrymen in
+that part of the globe. We do not wish to interfere, and I should
+like to see this put forward as the grand and final policy of South
+Africa&mdash;that we are ready to aid that portion of the Empire, but
+set our faces against interference. In conclusion, I will add that
+I am sure all of us congratulate Sir Frederick Young on having so
+successfully accomplished his arduous journey, returning to us, as
+he does, in better health than when he left. If you wish to renew
+your youth, and grow younger instead of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page161" name="page161"></a>Pg 161</span> older, follow his
+example&mdash;make a trip through South Africa, sleeping in the open
+veldt.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. SYMES THOMPSON: Another year's experience has confirmed and
+strengthened my conclusions as to the remarkable salubrity of the
+South African climate in cases of chest disease and of nerve wear,
+which I laid before the Royal Colonial Institute in November last.
+While regarding the neighbourhood of Cape Town and Grahamstown as
+beneficial for a short sojourn, among the upland stations I would
+call attention to Middelburg and Tarkestad. Hotel accommodation and
+adequate comfort for invalids, as regards food, quarters,
+attention, occupation, and amusement, are still most deficient.
+During the recent drought the dust storms proved very trying to the
+eyes and to the bronchial membranes at Kimberley, and at
+Johannesburg the dangers were great. I rejoice to learn that Sir
+Frederick Young has found his winter trip so health-giving, and
+believe that a similar expedition might prove of immense value to
+many Englishmen who are overwrought in body or in mind.</p>
+
+<p>The CHAIRMAN (the Right Hon. the Marquis of Lorne, K.T., G.C.M.G.):
+I propose a hearty vote of thanks to Sir Frederick Young for his
+kindness in reading the Paper. I was extremely interested myself,
+as I think you all were. In his political observations, and in
+speaking of a firm policy, I think that, after all, what the reader
+of the Paper meant was firmness in allowing each nationality to
+develop itself as it best might, with aid from home. I think that
+is the sense of his observations, and I am sure we are obliged to
+him, not only for speaking of more personal matters, but also for
+telling us the actual impressions he derived from the journey. I
+entirely agree with Mr. Merriman&mdash;and I believe Sir Frederick Young
+does&mdash;that, finding ourselves in South Africa with the Dutch, we
+must work with them and through them. I hope<span class="pagenum"><a id="page162" name="page162"></a>Pg 162</span> the Dutch will allow
+themselves to be helped in one matter which Sir Frederick Young
+impressed on President Kruger&mdash;apparently not with great
+results&mdash;viz., in the matter of railways, and that they will allow
+railways to pierce the Transvaal. I am sure he is a man of too much
+intelligence very much to object to railways. That policy would be
+too much like that of the Chinese. I remember, when I was at the
+head of a society in London, asking the representative of China to
+come and listen to a paper in regard to railways through Siam. He
+said solemnly&mdash;"Chinese not like railways." I said this railway
+would not go through the Imperial dominions&mdash;that it would only be
+at a respectful distance. Again my remarks were interpreted to him,
+and again, after a long pause, he solemnly replied&mdash;"Chinese don't
+like railways near frontier." I am sure President Kruger will not
+fritter chances away in that manner, and that he will allow us to
+help him.</p>
+
+<p>SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.: I feel extremely flattered by the
+compliment which our noble Chairman has been good enough to pay me.
+It was really most gratifying to me to be able to take the
+interesting and instructive tour from which I have recently
+returned, and the only difficulty and hesitation I felt as to
+giving an account of what I saw was that I saw so much that I did
+not know how I could crowd a tithe of it in the reasonable
+dimensions of a paper. I was a little in dread, I confess, when so
+astute and able a politician as Mr. Merriman rose to make his
+criticisms; but I wish him to understand, as well as you, that the
+view I put forward&mdash;perhaps I did not explain myself as clearly as
+I ought to have done&mdash;was that advocated by Mr. Merriman himself,
+namely, that South Africa should be allowed to frame her own
+policy. That is the sum and substance of what I wished to say on
+that point. As the noble Marquis has been so kind as to act as my
+interpreter, I need not take up more of your time by<span class="pagenum"><a id="page163" name="page163"></a>Pg 163</span> enlarging on
+this question. I have now the greatest possible pleasure in asking
+you to join with me in thanking the noble Marquis for having, as
+one of our Vice-Presidents, been so kind as to preside on this
+occasion.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/07de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page164" name="page164"></a>Pg 164</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a id="APPENDIX_II" name="APPENDIX_II">
+   <img src="images/02de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>APPENDIX II.</h2>
+
+<h3>IMPERIAL FEDERATION.</h3>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>An address on the above interesting subject was delivered by Sir
+Frederick Young, K.C.M.G., in the Y.M.C. Association Hall, on
+Monday, when the room was filled to its utmost capacity. The chair
+was taken by the President of the Association, Mr. E.J. Earp, who,
+in introducing the lecturer to the audience, said he was a
+gentleman who was well and favourably known to many colonists, who
+had received great attention and kindness from him during their
+visits to the Old Country. Sir Frederick Young had very kindly
+responded to the invitation of the committee to lecture this
+evening, and though the subject of Imperial Federation was of a
+somewhat political nature, still it was not of such a character as
+to preclude its being spoken about within the walls of the
+association. The subject of the lecture was one worthy of all
+attention, which had recently been occupying the attention of
+eminent statesmen of various political opinions. This was an age of
+specialists, and he thought that Sir Frederick Young might be well
+considered as a specialist on the subject upon which he was now<span class="pagenum"><a id="page165" name="page165"></a>Pg 165</span>
+about to address them. He had for many years been connected with
+the Royal Colonial Institute, and his services had received
+recognition at the hands of his Sovereign.</p>
+
+<p>Sir Frederick Young, who was most warmly received, said in he first
+place he must tender his hearty thanks to the Chairman for the very
+kind manner in which he had introduced him. The attention of the
+audience this evening would be directed to the desirability of
+promoting the unity of the British Empire. Before commencing his
+address, he wished to emphasize what the Chairman had already
+expressed with regard to the rules of the association on political
+subjects. In connection with that, he would say that the subject he
+was about to speak upon did not touch upon party politics in any
+way, as it was a National question, and might be excepted from
+their rigid rule. The subject of Imperial Federation was, to his
+mind, of so vast and vital a character, and of such importance to
+the whole nation collectively, that it impressed him with the
+responsibility he incurred in speaking upon it, and the feeling he
+had of being unable to do full justice to it. He spoke with some
+confidence on the subject, because he claimed to be one of the
+pioneers of the idea of Imperial Federation, which meant "the
+government of the Empire by the Empire." He wished to take his
+hearers back to the origin of English parliaments, when the first
+idea of representation occurred to our early kings, and when the
+scattered portions of England were at last drawn into one focus of
+representation by Edward III., and gradually that kind of
+representation succeeded in effecting the Union of England and
+Scotland, and subsequently Ireland, things remaining in that form
+until the present day. Latterly, our Colonial Empire had grown up
+to wonderful and vast dimensions, but as far as the principle of
+representation was concerned there had been no great change, though
+it was perfectly true that during the past few years<span class="pagenum"><a id="page166" name="page166"></a>Pg 166</span> a certain
+number of the Colonies had obtained what was called
+self-government, or what he called the shadow of English government
+on the parliamentary system, as retained in its original principle
+and plan up to our own times. The Imperial policy of the British
+Empire was entirely conducted at Home, and Imperial Federation
+meant that this system should be changed, and that those who were
+living outside the borders of the British Isles should have their
+true participation in the government of the Empire. This led him to
+a point on which there was very much misunderstanding on the part
+of those who had heard the subject of Imperial Federation
+mentioned, and who thought there must be some idea of those who
+advocated it at Home getting some advantage over their colonial
+brethren, and draw them into a net, by which they would have to
+part with their rights of local self-government. He utterly denied
+that there were any such intentions&mdash;on the contrary, this was an
+invitation to them, a cry from the Old Country, asking them to come
+and assist in governing the Empire. This could only be effected by
+Imperial Federation, which would mean the termination of what was
+called the rule of Downing Street, which would be superseded by
+something far different, and, in his opinion, be far more
+acceptable to the colonists themselves. They would not have to
+suffer, as they had in the past, in many ways, from ignorance,
+prejudice, and narrow views, but they would have an opportunity of
+taking part in the policy of the Empire, particularly in that which
+affected themselves. In consequence of the agitation at Home during
+the past few years a successful attempt had been made to establish
+what was called the Imperial Federation League, of which he was an
+active member, and which took no part in party politics, and was at
+the present moment presided over by Lord Rosebery, with the Hon. E.
+Stanhope, the present Minister of War, as Vice-President,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page167" name="page167"></a>Pg 167</span> who, so
+far as party politics were concerned, were on totally different
+sides. That would prove that in England they did not regard this
+great question as one of party politics. One of the most important
+results in connection with that League had been the celebrated
+Colonial Conference, which the League had been able to induce the
+Government to summon two years ago at Westminster. They all knew
+what a remarkable gathering that was, which was presided over by
+Lord Knutsford (then Sir Henry Holland), the summons being
+responded to by the self-governing Colonies of the Empire sending
+their foremost men to represent their interests. From South Africa
+were sent such men as Sir Thomas Upington, Sir John Robinson, and
+Mr. Hofmeyr, and he confessed that, when he had the honour of being
+at the first meeting of the Conference, and seeing these men
+gathered in the Foreign Office, and having present the Prime
+Minister, Lord Salisbury, if his dream of Imperial Federation was
+to be anything more than a dream, he felt that these were the first
+symptoms of its realization. It was the first time in history that
+the Colonies of Great Britain had come to the Mother Country to
+consult on great National questions. He had read nearly the whole
+of the large Blue Book which contained the reports of the
+Conference, and all he could say was that he challenged any
+assembly of public men to meet together and show more ability and
+statesmanlike thought in the discussion of the questions submitted
+to them than was shown by that Conference during its short reign.
+He was delighted with the noble words of Lord Salisbury, when he
+expressed his satisfaction, and said he hoped this would be only
+the first of many similar Conferences, but Lord Salisbury, like
+other public men, sometimes saw occasion to change his views,
+because not long ago he said, on a public occasion, that all he
+knew about Federation was, that it was a word spelt with ten
+letters, which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page168" name="page168"></a>Pg 168</span> was somewhat of a wet blanket to some of those who
+had reckoned upon Lord Salisbury as an ardent supporter. More
+recently he said, in reply to a question put to him at a public
+meeting at the East End of London, that geographical considerations
+would prevent the realization of such a scheme; but his allusions
+to geographical difficulties vanished before modern science. Was it
+not in their cognizance that in South Africa, through the medium of
+the telegraph, they were able to know what was taking place in
+England within twenty-four hours? Geographical considerations,
+indeed! that might have been all very well some years ago, when it
+took three or four months to reach the Cape, but now it took only
+two or three weeks, and that time would even be probably reduced as
+time wore on. Such being the case, geographical considerations had
+nothing whatever to do with the matter. He had no desire to speak
+unfairly of the gentleman who occupied the position of Prime
+Minister of the Empire, but he felt sure the time would come when
+Lord Salisbury would think that Imperial Federation was something
+more than a word of ten letters; and that his geographical
+considerations would vanish also, as having no reason in them. In
+contrast to Lord Salisbury, he would read a short extract from a
+speech, made only a few months ago at Leeds by Lord Rosebery, when
+he said: "For my part, if you will forgive me this little bit of
+egotism, I can say from the bottom of my heart that it is the
+dominant passion of my public life. Ever since I traversed those
+great regions which own the sway of the British Crown outside these
+islands, I have felt that there was a cause, which merited all the
+enthusiasm and energy that man could give to it. It is a cause for
+which any one might be content to live; it is a cause for which, if
+needs be, any one might be content to die." Lord Rosebery was at
+this moment the President of the Imperial Federation League, and
+only recently<span class="pagenum"><a id="page169" name="page169"></a>Pg 169</span> he addressed a letter, on behalf of the League, to
+Lord Salisbury, asking that the Government would summon another
+Conference like the one which took place with such wonderful
+results two years ago, and which Lord Salisbury had said he hoped
+would be the first of many more. The answer he gave, however, was
+something to the effect that he did not think it desirable that the
+Government should move in the matter, but that the Colonies should
+take the initiative. With all humility he would ask how anything of
+this kind could be moved, except by some motor? There must be
+something to move the colonists, and who could do that so well as
+Her Majesty's Government, by inviting, in a courteous and
+sympathetic spirit, the Colonies to come again and consult on
+Imperial subjects. He would now touch upon some of the errors
+prevalent on this great question of Imperial Federation. In some of
+the Colonies, New Zealand in particular, something had been said
+that in course of time independence must be the inevitable result.
+But he asked why should this be the case? He would also like to say
+something about what were Imperial questions? Some of the subjects
+which would be dealt with by the Imperial Federated Parliament
+would be those of National defence, peace and war, and all subjects
+in which national interests are concerned. As he had attempted to
+explain, it would be a federation in which the Colonies would be
+completely and fairly represented. The whole subject resolved
+itself into this: Representation. One hundred years ago, one of our
+distinguished statesmen in England, Charles James Fox, said that
+"representation was the sovereign remedy for all evils," and that
+was what was contended for by Imperial Federation. He would now
+venture to make some allusion to one of the most distinguished
+statesmen in South Africa, who attended the Conference in
+London&mdash;he alluded to Mr. Hofmeyr&mdash;who made a most re<span class="pagenum"><a id="page170" name="page170"></a>Pg 170</span>markable
+speech. He was sorry it was too long to read, but he would select a
+portion of that very statesmanlike address. Referring to the fourth
+and eighth subjects proposed for discussion&mdash;viz., the feasibility
+of promoting a closer union between the various parts of the
+British Empire by means of an Imperial tariff of Customs, to be
+levied independently of the duties payable under existing tariffs
+on goods entering the British Empire from abroad, the revenue
+derived from such tariffs to be devoted to the general defence of
+the Empire&mdash;he said: "I have taken this matter in hand with two
+objects, to promote the union of the Empire, and at the same time
+to obtain revenue for general defence. It would establish a
+connecting link between the Colonies mutually, as well as between
+the Colonies, and the Empire also, such as is not at present in
+existence, and which might fuller develop, by-and-by, into a most
+powerful bond of union." Again, speaking of how this was to be
+effected, he said: "A body would be required with legislative, and,
+to some extent, administrative powers; in other words, you would
+have a limited fiscal Parliament by the side of the British
+Parliament and the various Colonial Parliaments. This small body,
+which would have to be created, would perhaps be the germ of an
+Imperial Federation afterwards." He thought those were most
+remarkable, and striking words. If people would think the subject
+out in a calm judicial, and fair spirit, they would see in it the
+fulfilment of what would not only promote the best interests of the
+British Empire, but would also be the handmaiden of civilization to
+others as well, because in it there was no idea of aggrandisement.
+He had recently made a most remarkable tour through this
+interesting country, and since he landed in Cape Town, on the 24th
+May, had seen a great deal of it. He had visited Kimberley, and
+gone down in a bucket to see one of the diamond mines; he had
+travelled to Vryburg, and across the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page171" name="page171"></a>Pg 171</span> treeless desert in the
+south-western portion of the Transvaal to Klerksdorp; thence on to
+Johannesburg and down the gold mines, and further on to Pretoria,
+where he had an interview with President Kruger, and attended
+meetings of the Volksraad. He had been 150 miles north of Pretoria,
+and dwelt for a fortnight in the open veldt, without going near a
+house, and had seen the Kafirs in their kraals. He had crossed the
+Transvaal, through Heidelburg and Newcastle, in Natal, down to
+Durban, he had visited Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown, and had now
+returned to Cape Town. What he had seen of this great country had
+astonished him, and he thought it had a vast future before it; but
+it required to be governed in the most enlightened and satisfactory
+manner, and he appealed to both races&mdash;Dutch and English&mdash;to
+co-operate and unite in developing its wonderful resources. It was
+by this way alone&mdash;by cordial co-operation and a generous feeling
+towards one another, that this would be realized. He believed that
+Imperial Federation would be the best solution of the difficulties
+which had arisen. He had heard whispers of what was called
+Republicanism. We worshipped words rather than things; but the
+British Constitution, especially when it would be expanded by
+Federation, would be practically a Republic with a Queen as
+President. He would, therefore, appeal once more to the judgment of
+thoughtful men to weigh the principles contended for, calmly,
+wisely, and without prejudice or passion. The flippant, the
+superficial, the thoughtlessly ambitious, and those who did not
+take a fair, judicial, and comprehensive view of the great issues
+involved in it to each portion of the Empire over which the British
+Crown held sway, might deride and condemn it, but he, as one of its
+most ardent pioneers and supporters, recommended it to all
+colonists as well as to his countrymen at home, as the best
+preservation of their commercial, social, and political interests
+in the future, which they<span class="pagenum"><a id="page172" name="page172"></a>Pg 172</span> would lose altogether if they abandoned
+it in favour of the disintegration of the British Empire. He had
+studied this question for some years, and by a sort of instinct he
+felt that it was the right thing to be brought about. He had
+brought before them proofs that some distinguished men were already
+feeling the desirability of some such thing being effected, and he
+could not but help thinking that their ranks would be augmented by
+other people of influence and power, who may hereafter be brought
+to think seriously and carefully over this great question. He took
+the opportunity himself, some three years ago, to put a letter in
+the London <i>Times</i> suggesting that as the question had now been
+some years before the public, both in the Colonies and the Mother
+Country, it would be very desirable indeed if a Royal Commission of
+Inquiry were sent out, under distinguished auspices, for the
+purpose of ascertaining the opinions of the various Colonies. This
+could be carried out on parallel lines to the celebrated Commission
+sent to Canada, and which resulted in the consolidation of the
+Dominion. The obtaining of these opinions would be invaluable
+evidence as to the consensus of feeling in the Colonies on the
+subject. If the question was to be more than a dream, and became
+one of practical politics, it would require all the Colonies to
+express an opinion on the subject. He could not conceive that
+anything could be more desirable than to take the evidence of
+distinguished representative men on such a great National question.
+Those were the views he expressed in the leading journal; they were
+individual ideas, which did not yet appear to be acceptable, though
+he could not help hoping that the day would arrive when some such
+Royal Commission might be appointed, which would give an impetus to
+the question&mdash;and, at all events, afford all those who took such a
+deep interest in it an opportunity of seeing how far, in the
+opinion of the various Colonies, such a change in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page173" name="page173"></a>Pg 173</span> British
+Constitution could be effected, to the entire satisfaction of all
+concerned. There was no desire on the part of the Mother Country,
+in propounding questions like this, to take any advantage of the
+Colonies, or do anything which would not be for their benefit.
+There was no hurry on the part of the Mother Country, which simply
+asked the Colonies to help to govern and take part in the National
+politics of the British Empire.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. J.A. BAM proposed a vote of thanks to Sir Frederick Young for
+his able and instructive lecture, which was heartily accorded.</p>
+
+<p>SIR FREDERICK YOUNG having acknowledged the compliment, the
+proceedings closed with a vote of thanks to the President.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <img src="images/11de.jpg"
+      alt="decorative"
+      title="decorative" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h5>GEORGE BEECHING &amp; SON, Printers, Upper Baker Street, London, N.W.</h5>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> The First Series was published in 1887.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Since my return to England I am glad to hear that a
+Sanitary Board is to be established at Johannesburg.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> See Appendix.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA***</p>
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@@ -0,0 +1,3469 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Winter Tour in South Africa, by Frederick
+Young
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Winter Tour in South Africa
+
+
+Author: Frederick Young
+
+
+
+Release Date: July 30, 2005  [eBook #16399]
+
+Language: en
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Taavi Kalju, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
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+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
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+
+A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA
+
+by
+
+SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.
+
+(Reprinted by permission from the Proceedings of the Royal Colonial
+Institute, with large additions, Illustrations, and a Map.)
+
+London:
+E.A. Petherick & Co., 33, Paternoster Row, E.C.
+
+1890
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MY WAGON.]
+
+
+
+
+TO HER ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCESS LOUISE, MARCHIONESS OF LORNE,
+
+This Volume, describing a recent tour, during which
+   a large portion of Her Majesty's magnificent
+     Dominions in South Africa were traversed,
+       is, by gracious permission, dedicated
+              with feelings of sincere
+                      respect.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+The growth of the great Colonies of the British Empire is so phenomenal,
+and their development is so rapid, and remarkable, that if we are to
+possess a correct knowledge of their actual state, and condition, from
+year to year, their current history requires to be constantly
+re-written.
+
+The writer of a decade since, is, to-day, almost obsolete. He has only
+produced a current record of facts, and places, at the period he wrote.
+This is especially the case with South Africa.
+
+I have recently returned from a very interesting tour in that remarkable
+country. My impressions were noted down, as they occurred, from day to
+day. A summary of my observations, and of the incidents, in connection
+with my journey, was the subject of a Paper I read at the opening
+meeting of the present Session of the Royal Colonial Institute, on the
+12th of November last. I wish it to be understood that the opinions
+expressed on that occasion were my own, and that the Institute as a body
+is in no way responsible for them. This Paper has formed the outline of
+the volume, which--with much new matter from my note book--I now offer
+to the public, in the belief, that the narrative of a traveller, simply
+seeking instruction, as well as amusement, from a few months tour, while
+traversing some 12,000 miles by sea, and 4,000 miles by land, through
+the wonderful country in which he lately roamed, might prove of some
+use, in awakening additional interest on the part of the general public,
+to one of the most promising, and valuable portions of the Colonial
+Empire.
+
+In this spirit, I offer my "Winter Tour in South Africa," to my
+countrymen, "at home and beyond the seas," in the hope that it may
+receive from them, a favourable reception.
+
+On the "Political Situation," I have spoken strongly and frankly, I hope
+not too much so. The result of my personal observations has convinced
+me, that I have only correctly expressed the opinions, very widely
+entertained by large classes of Her Majesty's subjects in South Africa.
+
+I cannot conclude without acknowledging the aid I have derived from the
+Statistical information contained in the "Argus Annual," and it also
+affords me much pleasure to thank Mr. James R. Boose, the Librarian of
+the Royal Colonial Institute, for the assistance he has rendered me.
+
+FREDERICK YOUNG
+
+5, Queensberry Place, S.W.
+_1st January, 1890._
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+
+MY WAGON                                                       Frontispiece
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN                                         facing 6
+
+PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN                                         facing 8
+
+JOHANNESBURG, MARKET PLACE                                        facing 57
+
+CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL                                             facing 81
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG                                      facing 83
+
+A STREET IN MARITZBURG                                            facing 84
+
+TOWN HALL, DURBAN                                                 facing 86
+
+HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN                                             facing 89
+
+HEX RIVER PASS                                                   facing 107
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+
+DEDICATION.                                                              v.
+
+INTRODUCTION.                                                          vii.
+
+THE VOYAGE.--Embark at Southampton--Amusements at
+Sea--Lisbon--Madeira--Teneriffe--St. Helena--Longwood--Arrival
+at Cape Town                                                            1-4
+
+CAPE TOWN.--Queen's Birthday--Review of Troops--Regatta--Table
+Bay--Table Mountain--Hotels--House of Parliament--Observatory--South
+African Museum--Public Library--Botanic Gardens--Record Office--Places
+of Worship--Harbour Works and Breakwater--Graving Dock--Simon's
+Town--Kalk Bay--Constantia--Wynberg--Journey to Kimberley              5-21
+
+KIMBERLEY.--Address of Welcome from the Fellows of the Royal Colonial
+Institute--Diamond Industry--Bultfontein Mine--DeBeer's
+Mine--Compounds--United Companies--Central Kimberley Diamond
+Mine--Kimberley Hospital--Progress of Kimberley--Town Hall--Post
+Office--High Court--Public Library--Waterworks--_En route_ for
+Bechuanaland--Wagon Travelling--Warrenton--Drake's Farm               22-38
+
+BECHUANALAND.--Scenery--Field for Settlement--Vryburg--Lochnagar
+Farm--Prospect of Gold Discovery                                      39-46
+
+KLERKSDORP.--Nooitgedacht Mine--Pan Washing--Klerksdorp Gold Estates
+Company--Future of Klerksdorp                                         47-49
+
+POTCHEFSTROOM.--Wagon Journey--Presence of Gold-bearing
+Reefs--Vultures--Fort and Cemetery--Chevalier Forssman                50-52
+
+JOHANNESBURG.--Difficulties of Travelling--Appearance of the
+Town--Gold--Knights--The Jumpers--Robinson's--Langlaagte--Descent
+to the Mines--Market Square--Growth of Johannesburg--Sanitary
+arrangements                                                          53-59
+
+PRETORIA.--Water Supply--The Volksraad--President Paul Kruger--High
+Court of Justice--Want of Railroads--Growing Prosperity--Post
+Office--New Government Buildings--Political and Social Life--Pretoria
+Races                                                                 60-65
+
+WATERBURG.--Polonia--Hebron--Salt Pans--Kafirs--Appearance of the
+Country--Prospects of Gold--Scarcity of Game--Bush Fire--Narrow
+Escape--Transport Driver--Waterburg Sulphur Baths--Nylstroom
+Road--Return to Pretoria                                              66-78
+
+PRETORIA TO NATAL.--Coach to Johannesburg--Post Cart
+Travelling--Richmond--Heidelburg--Standerton--Newcastle--Eland's
+Laagte--Natal Railway--Coal Fields--Laing's Nek--Majuba
+Hill--Ingogo--Scenery of Natal                                        79-82
+
+MARITZBURG.--Public Buildings--House of Assembly--Statue of the
+Queen--British Troops                                                 83-84
+
+DURBAN.--Railway Journey--Town Hall--Municipal
+arrangements--Trade--Harbour Works--The "Berea"--Natal Central
+Sugar Company's Manufactory--Trappist Establishment at Marion
+Hill--Defences--Embark for Port Elizabeth                             85-96
+
+PORT ELIZABETH.--Trade--Town Hall--Public Library--Ostrich
+Feathers--The "Hill"--Botanical Garden--Hospital--Water
+Supply--Churches--Presentation of an address                         97-101
+
+GRAHAMSTOWN.--Railway Journey--Scenery--Botanical Gardens--Mountain
+Road--Museum--The Prison--Kafir School--Ostrich Farm at Heatherton
+Towers--Export of Feathers                                          102-105
+
+PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.--Scenery--Hex River Pass--Arrival at
+Cape Town--Lecture at Young Men's Christian Society--Start for
+England--Arrival at Southampton                                     106-108
+
+CLIMATE.                                                            109-112
+
+THE NATIVE QUESTION.                                                113-116
+
+RAILWAYS.                                                           117-122
+
+COLONISATION.                                                       123-127
+
+THE POLITICAL SITUATION.                                            128-148
+
+APPENDIX:--
+
+    I. Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South
+    Africa," by Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial
+    Institute                                                       149-163
+
+    II. Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town       164-173
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+THE VOYAGE.
+
+
+On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. _Spartan_ for
+Cape Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most
+enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or
+pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry on
+so admirably the weekly communication between England and South Africa,
+are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their captains and crews are
+so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin accommodation so ample
+and luxurious, that it seems impossible for anyone, excepting a
+confirmed grumbler, to find any reasonable fault with any of their
+arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will select the
+particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the
+convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any particular
+choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail
+Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line.
+
+A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give opportunity
+for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful and pleasant
+to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and turmoil of
+life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat monotonous, in
+spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged, including
+cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I experienced
+a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to preside at
+concerts, lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon passengers, but
+also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the Bay of Biscay,
+a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the picturesque
+capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the memory of the
+scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which destroyed most of the
+town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants; a short stay at the lovely island
+of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful scenery, to breathe
+its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land at its pretty
+town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings; a passing
+peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention in Europe as
+an attractive health resort; a few days' run of exhausting heat through
+the tropics; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a drive to
+Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon breathed his
+last--leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty name to all
+time--on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more of solitary
+sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales, porpoises,
+dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses; a glance upward, night
+after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern Cross, so much
+belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance, after the
+extravagant encomiums lavished on it; and at length, on the early
+morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+CAPE TOWN.
+
+
+To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is
+essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather.
+Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a
+deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful
+day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter
+genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite
+charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of
+Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually
+striking to a traveller, fresh from the sea, was, that it was the
+Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of
+"Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally _en fete_. The inhabitants
+thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay
+costumes among the motley crowd--English, Dutch, Germans and French,
+Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots--a tremendous gathering,
+in fact, of all nations, and "all sorts and conditions of men." There
+was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which
+His Excellency the Administrator, General Smyth, surrounded by a
+brilliant staff, received the homage due to the British flag; and, as
+her representative on this occasion, to Her Majesty's honoured name. The
+review was followed by a regatta in the afternoon. It was quite
+refreshing to a new arrival, like myself, to observe the enthusiastic
+evidences of loyal feeling everywhere exhibited in the capital of the
+Colony to our Queen, the beloved and venerated head of the British
+Empire.
+
+[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
+
+Before commencing my long and interesting tour "up country," I spent a
+few most pleasant, days at Cape Town. My impressions of it, and of its
+beautiful surroundings, could not fail to be most favourable. The
+panoramic view of its approach from Table Bay, at the foot of Table
+Mountain, is very fine. The town itself appeared to me much cleaner, and
+brighter than I expected to see it, although, it must be admitted, there
+is still considerable room for improvement in its sanitary arrangements,
+and also in the accommodation, and condition of its hotels, to make them
+as attractive as they ought to be. The best of them do not come at all
+up to our standard at home, nor to our English ideas of comfort and
+convenience. A great improvement in these respects, I am satisfied, is
+not only necessary, but would pay well, and induce a far larger number
+of visitors to stay at Cape Town, and avail themselves of its
+attractions of climate, and fine surroundings.
+
+While I was at Cape Town, I visited among other places, the House of
+Parliament, the Observatory, the South African Museum, the Public
+Library, the Botanic Gardens, &c.
+
+[Illustration: PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
+
+The House of Parliament, which was opened for public use in 1885, is a
+very handsome building, having a frontage of 264 feet, and is divided
+into a central portico, leading into the grand vestibule, the two
+debating chambers, and side pavilions. The portico, which is of massive
+dimensions, is approached by a commanding flight of granite steps, which
+runs round three sides of it. The pavilions are relieved by groups of
+pilasters with Corinthian capitals, and are surmounted by domes and
+ventilators. The whole of the ground floor up to the level of the main
+floor has been built of Paarl granite, which is obtained from the
+neighbouring district of that name. The upper part of the building is of
+red brick, relieved by pilasters and window dressing of Portland cement,
+the effect being very pleasing to the eye. The interior accommodation
+for the business of the two Legislative bodies is most complete, and
+arranged with a careful view to comfort and convenience. In addition to
+the Debating Chambers, which are sixty-seven feet in length by
+thirty-six feet in width, there is a lofty hall of stately appearance,
+with marble pillars, and tesselated pavement, which forms the central
+lobby, or grand vestibule. I might mention, that the debating chambers
+are only ten feet in length and width less than the British House of
+Commons. Adjoining the central lobby is the parliamentary library, a
+large apartment, with galleries above each other reaching to the full
+height of the building. The usual refreshment, luncheon, and smoking
+rooms have not been forgotten, in connection with the comfort of the
+members. The public are accommodated in roomy galleries, and ample
+provision has been made for ladies, distinguished visitors, and the
+press. The portrait of Her Majesty, and the Mace at the table reminds
+one forcibly of the fact that one is still in a portion of the British
+Empire. The total cost of the building, including furniture, was
+L220,000.
+
+I attended two or three debates in the House of Parliament, and was much
+impressed with the manner in which, in this superb and commodious
+legislative chamber, the discussions were carried on. There was a quiet
+dignity of debate, as well as business-like capacity and orderly tone,
+observed on both sides of the House, which might be copied with
+advantage, as it is in striking contrast to much of the practice, in the
+Parliament of Great Britain. It is certainly satisfactory to notice,
+that the modern manners and customs, in the popular branch of our own
+ancient national assembly, which so frequently fail in orthodox
+propriety, have not been imitated in the Cape Colony.
+
+At the Record Office attached to the House of Parliament, I went into
+the vaults, and inspected the early manuscripts of the Dutch, during
+their original occupation of the Cape of Good Hope. These are most
+deeply and historically interesting, and valuable. The minute accuracy,
+with which every incident is recorded is most remarkable. There are bays
+in these vaults, filled with records, which must be of priceless value
+to an historical student, and they are now in course of arrangement by
+the able librarian, Mr. H.C.V. Leibbrandt, who is the author of a most
+interesting work entitled "Rambles through the Archives of the Colony of
+the Cape of Good Hope."[A]
+
+At the South African Museum I found a valuable collection of beasts,
+birds, fishes, &c., not only from South Africa, but from various parts
+of the world. The collection has been enriched by valuable contributions
+from Mr. Selous, the distinguished African traveller, and sportsman, his
+donations consisting chiefly of big game, including two gigantic elands,
+(male and female), buffaloes, antelopes, &c. The series of birds
+comprises the large number of two thousand species.
+
+A visit of great interest to me was to the South African Public Library,
+which boasts of about 50,000 volumes, and embraces every branch of
+science and literature. It contains three distinct collections, viz.,
+the Dessinian, the Grey, and the Porter. The first-named was bequeathed
+to the Colony in 1761 by Mr. Joachim Nicholas Von Dessin, and consists
+of books, manuscripts and paintings. The Porter collection took its name
+from the Hon. William Porter, and was purchased from the subscriptions
+raised for the purpose of procuring a life-size portrait of that
+gentleman, in recognition of his services to the Colony. As, however,
+Mr. Porter declined to sit for his portrait, the amount subscribed was
+appropriated to the purchase of standard works, to be known as the
+Porter Collection. By far the most valuable, however, is the Grey
+Collection, numbering about 5,000 volumes, and occupying a separate
+room. These were presented by Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape
+Colony from 1854 to 1859, and still an active member of the New Zealand
+House of Representatives. Here are many rare manuscripts, mostly on
+vellum or parchment, some of them of the tenth century, in addition to a
+unique collection of works relating to South Africa generally.
+
+Among the places of worship in Cape Town the most important are St.
+George's Cathedral, which was built in 1830, and is of Grecian style of
+architecture, and accommodates about 1,200 persons; and the Dutch
+Reformed Church, which possesses accommodation for 3,000 persons, and is
+not unappropriately named the Colonial Westminster Abbey. Beneath its
+floors lie buried eight Governors of the Colony, the last one being Ryk
+Tulbagh, who was buried in 1771.
+
+No account of Cape Town would be complete without a reference to the
+important Harbour Works, and Breakwater, which at once attract the
+attention of the visitor, and which have been in course of erection for
+several years past, from the designs of Sir John Coode. These works
+have been of the greatest importance in extending, and developing the
+commercial advantages of the port. The Graving Dock now named the
+Robinson, after the late Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was formally
+opened during the year 1882, and it so happened that the first vessel to
+enter it was the _Athenian_, in which I returned to England, at the
+termination of my tour. The whole of the works connected with the
+building of the Docks and Breakwater reflect credit upon all who have in
+any way been engaged upon their construction. The amount expended on
+them up to the end of 1887 was L1,298,103.
+
+Before leaving Cape Town, at the invitation of the Naval
+Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Wells, I paid a visit to Simon's Town, the
+chief naval station of the colony. The railway runs at present as far
+as Kalk Bay, which takes about an hour to get to from Cape Town. Kalk
+Bay is a pleasant seaside resort for the inhabitants of the colony, the
+air being regarded as particularly invigorating. The remaining distance
+of six miles to Simon's Town is performed in a Cape cart, which is a
+most comfortable vehicle on two wheels, drawn by two horses with a pole
+between them, and covered with a hood, as a protection from the weather.
+The scenery from the Kalk Bay station to Simon's Town is very
+picturesque. A bold sea stretches out on one side of the road, and the
+mountain on the other. Amongst other things which attracted my attention
+at Simon's Town was the Dockyard, which embraces about a mile of the
+foreshore, and contains appliances for repairing modern war vessels, a
+repairing and victualling depot, and a patent slip, capable of lifting
+vessels of about 900 tons displacement. I went with the Admiral, and a
+party of ladies to have luncheon on board the Steam Corvette _Archer_.
+
+Simon's Bay is very sheltered, excepting from the south-east, with good
+holding anchorage ground. It seems a quiet, secluded spot, well-adapted
+for a naval station in this part of the world, although I have heard
+that an opinion prevails that the fleet should be at Cape Town instead
+of Simon's Bay. The _Raleigh_ is the flag-ship; I saw also some other
+vessels of the Royal Navy at anchor in the bay. The fortifications which
+are now in progress for the protection of this important point in our
+chain of defences will, when completed, render the place practically
+impregnable from sea attack.
+
+Some of the most beautiful coast scenery I have ever seen is to be found
+in that very lovely drive by Sea Point to Hout's Bay, and thence back to
+Cape Town by Constantia and Wynberg. This is a celebrated excursion,
+and well deserves the praises bestowed upon it. The road has been
+admirably constructed by convict labour.
+
+A very convenient short line of railway also brings within easy reach of
+the inhabitants of Cape Town the pretty villages of Mowbray, Rondebosch,
+Rosebank, Newlands, Wynberg, Constantia, &c., where, in charming villas
+and other residences, so many of the wealthier classes reside. At
+Constantia the principal wine farms are situated, the most noted being
+the Groot Constantia (the Government farm) and High Constantia.
+Constantia wine can only be produced on these farms. Another farm in
+this neighbourhood is Witteboomen, which is particularly noted for its
+peaches, there being over one thousand trees on the farm, in addition to
+many other kinds of fruit. Another one, and probably the largest in the
+district, is named "Sillery." Here not many years ago the ground was a
+wilderness, but it has now attained a high state of perfection, there
+being at least 140,000 vines and hundreds of fruit trees of all kinds,
+under cultivation.
+
+At Cape Town I received the first proofs of the kind and lavish
+attentions which everywhere in South Africa were subsequently bestowed
+upon me. From everyone, without exception--from His Excellency the
+Administrator and Mrs. Smyth, and the members of his staff--from all the
+public men and high officials--from members of the Cape Government, and
+from the leaders of the Opposition, besides from innumerable private
+friends, Dutch and English alike, I received such cordial tokens of
+goodwill, that I can only express my deep sense of appreciation of their
+most genial and friendly hospitality. I bid adieu to Cape Town (which I
+was visiting for the first time in my life) with the conviction that I
+was truly in a land, not of strangers, but of real friends, who desired
+to do everything in their power to make my visit to South Africa
+pleasant and agreeable to me; and this impression I carried with me ever
+afterwards at every place I visited during the whole of my tour.
+
+On Wednesday, May 29, I left Cape Town at 6.30 p.m. for Kimberley,
+passing Beaufort West, the centre of an extensive pastoral district, and
+De Aar, the railway junction from Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. This
+journey is a long one, of between 600 and 700 miles, and of some
+forty-two hours by railway. I travelled all through that night, and the
+whole of the next day, through the most remarkable kind of country I
+ever saw. Flat, and apparently as level, as a bowling-green (although we
+were continually rising from our starting-point at Cape Town to a
+height at Kimberley of about 3,800 feet above the sea), a sandy and
+dreary desert, with occasionally low, and barren hills in the far
+distance--not a tree to be seen, and scarcely any vestige of vegetation,
+excepting now and then, a few of the indigenous Mimosa shrubs, which,
+for hundreds of miles, grow fitfully on this desolate soil. This is the
+wonderful tract of country called the Great Karoo. Not a sign of animal
+life is to be detected, at this period of the year. During the summer
+months it affords pasturage for large flocks of sheep. It is a vast
+interminable _sea of lone land_, over which the eye wanders unceasingly
+during the whole of the daylight hours.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+[Footnote A: The First Series was published in 1887.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+KIMBERLEY.
+
+
+After another long night in the railway train, at noon on the second
+day, after leaving Cape Town, I reached the celebrated diamond town of
+Kimberley, the population of which consists of about 6,000 Europeans,
+with a native population estimated at about 10,000, chiefly concentrated
+in the mining area.
+
+On my arrival at the railway station, I was met by the Mayor, and a
+deputation of the residents of the town. At a conversazione held later,
+and which was attended by over four hundred ladies and gentlemen, the
+following address was presented to me by the Fellows of the Royal
+Colonial Institute resident at Kimberley and Beaconsfield:--
+
+     "Kimberley, _June 1st_, 1889.
+
+     "To SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.
+
+     "A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute.
+
+     "DEAR SIR,--We, the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute,
+     resident in the towns and mining centres of Kimberley, and
+     Beaconsfield, South Africa, cordially welcome your arrival amongst
+     us.
+
+     "We are persuaded that your visit to this distant part of Her
+     Majesty's Dominions has been undertaken, not merely for personal
+     pleasure, but also on behalf of the great and growing need for the
+     consolidation and expansion of colonial interests throughout the
+     Empire.
+
+     "We feel that your own career has been an important factor in the
+     formation of a sound public opinion on this subject, and that it
+     is largely through your patient and far-seeing efforts, that the
+     Royal Colonial Institute has attained its present proud position
+     amongst the various, influences, moulding, organising, and guiding
+     the life and destinies of Her Majesty's Colonial Empire.
+
+     "We believe the present time to be vitally important in the history
+     of Her Majesty's Dominions in South Africa. The tide of
+     confederation, and corporate union is manifestly rising, the wave
+     of extended British influence is flowing northwards, the various
+     nationalities and states of this vast country are educating
+     themselves by experience to see the folly and sterile weakness of
+     isolation, and are learning to realise the inherent strength, and
+     vitality of mutual co-operation, based on a self respecting, yet
+     unselfish responsibility to South Africa as a whole.
+
+     "We venture to suggest that this growing feeling for co-operation
+     will prove a valuable element in the growth, and formation in the
+     near future, of one Grand Confederation of all countries and
+     peoples, owing allegiance to, or claiming corporate alliance with,
+     Her Britannic Majesty's Empire.
+
+     "We rejoice, as members of the Royal Colonial Institute, that your
+     personal merits and public career have been recognised by Her
+     Majesty in the honour conferred upon you, which we trust you will
+     enjoy for many years.
+
+     "Coming amongst us as a Vice-President of our own Institute, your
+     presence symbolises to us the aspiration, radiant in hope, and
+     prophetic in promise, which animates all true and loyal subjects of
+     Her Majesty, and which is alone worthy of our past history, and
+     present responsibilities--the aspirations of a strong and united
+     people for a vigorous, and progressive 'United Empire.'"
+
+To anyone visiting, for the first time, this great centre of the diamond
+industry of South Africa the scene is most extraordinary. The excitement
+and bustle, the wild whirl of vehicular traffic, the fearful dust, the
+ceaseless movement of men and women of all descriptions, and of every
+shade of complexion and colour, are positively bewildering. The thoughts
+of everybody appear to be centred in diamonds, and the prevailing talk
+and speech are accordingly. Being the recipient, myself, of the most
+kind attention and genial and generous hospitality, my stay was most
+agreeable, and pleasant. Great facilities were afforded me for seeing
+everything connected with this wonderful industry, and satisfying
+myself, that there are no present signs of its being exhausted or
+"played out." Indubitable evidences were given me, that diamonds
+continue to be found in as large quantities as ever. They appeared to me
+to be "as plentiful as blackberries."
+
+At the Bultfontein Mine I descended to the bottom of the open workings
+in one of the iron buckets, used for bringing up the "blue ground" to
+the surface. This is rather a perilous adventure. To go down by a wire
+rope, some five or six hundred feet perpendicular into the bowels of the
+earth with lightning rapidity, standing up in an open receptacle, the
+top of which does not approach your waist, oscillating like a pendulum,
+while you are holding on "like grim death" by your hands, is something
+more than a joke. It certainly ought not to be attempted by anyone who
+does not possess a cool head and tolerable nerve.
+
+Here I saw multitudes of natives employed,--as afterwards in the De
+Beer's, the Kimberley, and other diamond mines,--with pickaxes, shovels,
+and other tools, breaking down the ground at the sides of the mine,
+perched at various spots, and many a giddy height. Diamond mining at
+Kimberley is altogether a very wonderful specimen of the development of
+a new industry. In this mine I had explained to me the various
+processes, by which diamonds are discovered in the rocky strata which is
+being constantly dug out of the enormous circular hole, constituting it.
+
+I also visited the celebrated De Beer's Mine. This vast mine, where some
+thousands of workmen, white and coloured, are employed, is carried on
+much in the same way as the Bultfontein, as far as the different
+processes are concerned, of treating the material in which the diamonds
+are found. It is much richer, however, in "blue ground," and
+consequently far more valuable results are obtained from it. For
+instance, the average value of each truck load of stuff from the
+Bultfontein is said to be about 8s., while from the De Beer's it is
+28s. or 30s. The latter mine is now worked underground, in the same way
+as copper and coal mines are worked in England. Excellent arrangements
+are made for the protection and well-being of the native workmen,
+especially by the introduction of "compounds" during the last year or
+two. These are vast enclosures, with high walls, where the natives
+compulsorily reside, after their daily work is done during the whole
+time they remain at work in the mine. This system has been attended with
+the most satisfactory results. I went over the De Beer's "compound,"
+where I saw an immense number of natives, all appearing lively,
+cheerful, and happy. A large number were playing at cards (they are
+great gamblers), and others amusing themselves in various ways. No
+intoxicating liquor is permitted to be sold within the "compounds." The
+weekly receipts for ginger beer amount to a sum, which seems fabulous,
+averaging from L60 to L100 a week. The natives can purchase from the
+"compound" store every possible thing they want, from a tinpot to a
+blanket, from a suit of old clothes to a pannikin of mealies. Before the
+establishment of the "compounds," when the natives had the free run of
+the town, and could obtain alcoholic liquor--on Saturday nights
+especially, after they had done their work and received their weekly
+wages--Kimberley was a perfect pandemonium.
+
+An interesting visit was one to the central offices of the United
+Companies, where I saw the diamonds, as they are prepared ready for
+sale, lying on a counter in small assorted lots, on white paper. This is
+a most remarkable sight. The lots, varying from half-a-dozen to twenty,
+or thirty, or more diamonds, are spread out arranged according to their
+estimated value. I took up one, which I was told would probably fetch
+L1,000, and of which there were several similar ones in the different
+parcels on the counter. The manager showed me a paper of a sale to the
+buyers, a day or two before, of a parcel, which was calculated to
+realise L14,189, and which actually was sold afterwards for L14,150;
+showing the surprising accuracy of the previous estimate on the part of
+the experts.
+
+Another day I went to the Central Kimberley Diamond Mine. After going
+over the mine, my party and myself all "assisted" at the counter in one
+of the large sheds in picking out diamonds from the heap of small stones
+just brought up and laid out from the day's washings. It is rather a
+fascinating occupation, turning over the heap with a little triangular
+piece of tin held in one hand, and continually "scraped" along the
+board. I found several diamonds. We were told, after we had been
+working diligently for an hour or two--there were six of us--that the
+value of the diamonds we had found, and placed in the manager's box, was
+probably L1,200. This seemed to us a good afternoon's work. The entire
+district of Kimberley seems to teem with diamonds, and yet there is no
+cessation in the demand for them, and they are still rising in price.
+Accidents are frequent at these mines, but excellent provision for
+meeting these misfortunes is made in the admirably conducted Kimberley
+Hospital (where there are no less than 360 beds for patients), which I
+visited during my stay. It is under the management of a very remarkable
+woman, Sister Henrietta, and reflects the greatest credit on everyone
+connected with its conduct, and support. The number of native cases
+treated at the Hospital during the year 1887 was 2,975.
+
+Kimberley has risen with immense speed, commencing from what is
+generally known as a "rush," to a large and prosperous centre of wealth,
+trade, and commerce. There, where only a few years since, was to be
+found a collection of tents and small huts, I found a city with handsome
+buildings, churches, stores, institutions, and law courts, and, above
+all, a well ordered society. Some of the buildings which I might
+specially mention, are the Town Hall, the Post Office, the High Court,
+and the Public Library, which has been in existence about seven years,
+and is superintended with such excellent results and most gratifying
+success by the Judge President. One noticeable fact connected with this
+Library is that the number of works of fiction annually taken out by the
+subscribers, exceeds, per head of the population, that of any Public
+Library in the United Kingdom.
+
+The Kimberley Waterworks, which I also visited, have proved a great boon
+to this part, of the Colony. They were erected at a cost of L400,000,
+the water supply being obtained from the Vaal River, seventeen miles
+away.
+
+After spending a most pleasant and agreeable week there, I left
+Kimberley at six o'clock on the morning of June 7, in a wagon drawn by
+eight horses, and accompanied by five friends, for Warrenton, _en route_
+for Bechuanaland and the Transvaal. This mode of travelling was quite a
+novelty to me. Although in this journey of altogether three weeks'
+duration, we occasionally put up at one or two hotels, at some of the
+towns, and sometimes at the farmhouses on our way, we frequently "camped
+out" on the open veldt, and, after finishing our evening meal of the
+rough-and-ready provisions we carried with us, supplemented by the game
+we shot, we wrapped ourselves in our karosses, and slept for the night
+under the canopy of the starlit sky. I occupied the wagon, my more
+juvenile companions lying on the ground beneath it.
+
+This was my first experience of sleeping in the open air in a wagon, and
+this, too, in the depth of a South African winter.
+
+The town of Warrenton is situated on the banks of the Vaal River, and is
+forty-three miles north of Kimberley. It is at present an unimportant
+town, but diamond diggings have been recently opened, and it is a good
+cattle district. It took its name from Sir Charles Warren. Soon after
+leaving Warrenton we crossed the Vaal River on a pontoon. Here a trooper
+of the Mounted Police joined us, who was said to be a very crack shot.
+He rode a charming and well-bred grey horse, and had two admirably
+trained pointers with him. He offered me his horse to ride, he taking
+my place in the wagon. I had a most enjoyable morning's ride on one of
+the best little hacks I ever mounted, cantering over the veldt in the
+track of the wagon for about eight or ten miles--through a charming
+country with a superb view towards Bechuanaland, the veldt being more
+wooded and picturesque, than I had hitherto seen.
+
+We slept that night at Drake's Farm. Before starting the next morning, I
+had a long conversation with Mr. Drake. He was born and brought up in
+London, and was in business with the firm of Moses & Son, of Cheapside,
+as a traveller. He came out here nine years ago with L10 in his pocket,
+and travelled up from Port Elizabeth. Mr. Drake is evidently a man of
+great energy, and perseverance. He has a high opinion of the country,
+and a great idea of its future. His farm and store are situated on the
+borders of Bechuanaland; but he now wishes he had settled there, even in
+preference to where he is. He laughs at the idea of there being no
+water. He says there is plenty to be found at from seventeen to
+twenty-five feet below the surface. But he says it must be dug for. If
+properly irrigated, it is his opinion that thousands and thousands of
+tons of mealies might be grown. He is enthusiastic about the beauty of
+Bechuanaland, and spoke of having seen parts of it in which the charms
+of English scenery are to be found, and even greater attractions than in
+many gentlemen's parks in the Old Country. His opinion of the climate is
+very high. He told me he would on no account exchange his present
+location, with its dry, pure, and bracing air, so healthful,
+invigorating, and free, for the chill, and damps, and fogs of England.
+Mr. Drake was in England during the year 1887 (the Jubilee year), but
+he was glad to get back again to his home on the border of
+Bechuanaland--a very comfortable one, as I can testify from my own
+personal experience.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+BECHUANALAND.
+
+
+I was very much struck with the appearance of the country on first
+entering Bechuanaland. The vast plain, over which I was then riding on
+horseback, was bounded by low, sloping hills, covered with brushwood and
+trees. It suggested to me forcibly the idea of a "land of promise,"
+wanting only an intelligent and energetic people to secure its proper
+and successful development.
+
+In fact, as a field for settlement, I entirely concur with the remarks
+of Mr. John Mackenzie, who has worked for so many years in
+Bechuanaland, and who states in his recent work, entitled, "Austral
+Africa"--
+
+     "I come now to give my own thoughts as to the capabilities of
+     Bechuanaland as a field for colonisation. My mind reverts at once
+     to thrifty, and laborious people who are battling for dear-life on
+     some small holding in England or Scotland, and who can barely make
+     ends meet. I do not think that any class of men, or men of any
+     colour, endure such hardships in South Africa. There are portions
+     of Bechuanaland where, in my opinion, a body of some hundreds of
+     agricultural emigrants would, like the Scottish settlers in
+     Baviaan's river, some sixty years ago, take root from the first,
+     and make for themselves homes. If they came in considerable
+     numbers, and accompanied by a minister of religion, and possibly a
+     schoolmaster, the children would not be losers by the change, while
+     the church and school-house would form that centre in South
+     Africa, with which all are familiar in Scotland, and give the
+     people from the first a feeling of home. I would not suggest that
+     such men should be merely agriculturists, but that like most
+     farmers in South Africa they should follow both branches of
+     farming. They would begin with some sheep, or angora goats, and a
+     few cows. In the first instance they would have a freehold in the
+     village, with right of pasturage, and they would also have their
+     farm itself in the neighbourhood, the size of which would depend
+     upon its locality and capabilities. But with the milk of his stock
+     and the produce of his land in maize, millet and pumpkins, the
+     farmer and his family would be, from the first, beyond the reach of
+     want."
+
+For two days more we travelled through the same kind of country, a fine,
+bold, and very extensive plain (a promising district for cattle
+farming), with rolling and undulating hills in the distance, till we
+reached Vryburg, about a hundred and forty-five miles--in four
+days--from Kimberley. This is the capital of British Bechuanaland, and
+the head-quarters of Sir Sidney Shippard, the Administrator. The town
+itself contains about 500 inhabitants, chiefly Europeans. Here we spent
+four days. On one of these I was taken by Mr. M---- to visit his fine
+Bechuanaland farm of 6,000 morgen--12,000 acres--which he has named
+"Lochnagar." We left Vryburg at 7.30 a.m., and drove about twelve miles
+in the direction of Kuruman, reaching Lochnagar Farm about 10 o'clock.
+While breakfast was preparing, Mr. M---- took me round the nearest part
+of this excellent and valuable farm. He has had it about three years,
+and he has already shown the wonderful capabilities for development
+which an enterprising proprietor, possessed of some capital, can evolve
+from farms in Bechuanaland. He first took me into his fruit garden,
+which he has stocked with fruits of all descriptions. I was particularly
+struck with the healthy appearance of the wood (it was then the middle
+of winter) of the trees of all sorts of fruit. He has planted mulberry,
+apple, pear, apricot, peach, orange, citron, and several other fruits,
+all of which seem to be growing fast, and taking root vigorously in the
+soil. A large space is also devoted to a vineyard, as well as another to
+an orchard.
+
+The farm is well irrigated, there being an abundance of water on it, as
+I myself saw. After breakfast we walked round the cattle lair, where a
+large portion of his 200 head of cattle were collected. I was much
+impressed with the fine appearance of the stock. Large-framed, stalwart
+oxen, and fat milch cows were round me on every side during my
+inspection. I did not notice a single animal that was not in capital
+condition, and fit for the market--if market there could only be. I next
+went through a large enclosure, in which there were about forty horses,
+part of the eighty belonging to Mr. M----. Here I saw several
+three-year-olds, and brood mares, and colts, all looking well and
+healthy, and containing several good, well-shaped, and promising
+specimens of young horseflesh. Mr. M---- has also a flock of one
+thousand sheep on his farm, but these I did not see, as they were out
+grazing on the veldt. We then walked to another portion of the farm,
+lying close to the capital house, built of stone by Mr. M----, to a
+large "pan," or lake, in which there were fish caught with a net. These
+are a sort of carp, and a black-coloured fish of seven pounds or eight
+pounds weight, said to be very good eating. I saw in an outhouse a small
+collapsible boat, which is sometimes used on the lake. In summer, I am
+told, the farm looks very pretty, with its long stretches of bright
+green herbage, and wild flowers, and sunny aspect.
+
+Mr. M---- was born at Cape Town. He is of Dutch origin, and is a fine,
+stalwart-looking man with great energy of character and keen
+intelligence. He seems well fitted to be a pioneer farmer, to develop
+the too-long neglected resources of this fertile land. He is about
+forty-five years of age, and a bachelor. He first arrived on his farm on
+a Saturday night three years ago, and the next day commenced tree
+planting. His first trees were thus planted on a Sunday Morning. This
+was a good omen of the success he deserves, as I remarked to him.
+
+While I was at Vryburg I was also taken by the proprietor of the Vryburg
+Hotel to see a farm about five miles off, where they were prospecting
+for gold. Mr. H---- informed me that the reef I saw, was the same
+description of rock, I should see at Johannesburg. The people in this
+neighbourhood are very sanguine; I was told that this may prove a great
+discovery for Bechuanaland.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+KLERKSDORP.
+
+
+Having received the same hospitable attention, as elsewhere, at Vryburg,
+our wagon party once more resumed its journey. Thirty miles brought us
+to the south-western frontier of the Transvaal, from whence we travelled
+on, through the most dreary, flat, uninteresting, barren, treeless
+plain, for two or three days more, sleeping every night on the veldt,
+until we reached Klerksdorp, about 120 miles from Vryburg. The
+south-western part of the Transvaal is certainly exceedingly inferior in
+appearance to what I saw in Bechuanaland. We remained at Klerksdorp
+three days. While there I visited one or two of the gold mines of this
+promising district.
+
+At the Nooitgedacht Mine I saw the process performed of pan washing of
+the previously crushed quartz. I also went to the stamping house, where
+a machine for crushing has been erected of twenty stamps. I inspected
+the mine generally, and its various shafts already sunk. The work
+appeared to me to be well and systematically conducted. Before leaving
+this mine the great gold cake lump, weighing 1,370 ozs., which was being
+forwarded, the day I was there, to the Paris Exhibition, was put into my
+hands. It seemed a wonderfully big lump of the precious metal, which is
+so earnestly sought for by every race of civilised man.
+
+I also went over another mine, at present in the early stage of its
+development, but which struck me as being conducted, as far as the
+working management was concerned, on good, sound, business
+principles--belonging to the Klerksdorp Gold Estates Company.
+
+My stay at Klerksdorp much impressed me with the idea of the future of
+this town of yesterday's growth. It is only fifteen months ago, (a
+little more than a year) that the whole of the town on the side of the
+stream where the Union Hotel is situated, was begun. The inhabitants
+already number some thousands; and the indications I have seen in the
+mines, of great prospects of gold being found in large and payable
+quantities, are very strong. Klerksdorp may yet become a second
+Johannesburg, whose remarkable and rapid development I was told, would
+astonish me.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+POTCHEFSTROOM.
+
+
+After leaving Klerksdorp, we travelled the next day in our wagon
+thirty-two miles, halting for the night at Potchefstroom, which is not
+only one of the oldest, but one of the most important of the Transvaal
+districts. Recently the presence of gold-bearing reefs has been
+demonstrated in many parts of the division. On our way we passed, during
+the afternoon, a spot on the road where a flock of not less than fifty
+of those unclean birds, vultures, were hovering over and around the
+carcase of a recently dead bullock. These birds are the scavengers of
+this part of the world; they feed greedily on carrion, and rapidly pull
+a dead animal completely to pieces, leaving only the bones, which
+afterwards lie bleaching on the Veldt, to mark the spot where it has
+fallen in death--whether it be either horse, or mule, or bullock--left
+to die, worn out with fatigue by its unfeeling owners.
+
+Before leaving Potchefstroom, the next morning, I paid a hasty visit to
+the Fort and Cemetery, rendered so tragically historical in connection
+with the Transvaal war. It was here that my lamented friend, the late
+Chevalier Forssman, was shut up with his family for ninety days, and
+lost during the siege, two of his children, a son and a daughter. I was
+much struck with the picturesque appearance of Potchefstroom. It has a
+population of about 2,000. Another long two days' journeying of about
+sixty-four miles, through a prettier country than the wide wilderness
+of the boundless and treeless plain, we had hitherto passed through in
+the Western part of the Transvaal, brought us to Johannesburg.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+JOHANNESBURG.
+
+
+We had some little trouble in finding our way into the town, as for the
+last two hours the daylight failed, and we had to grope our way along at
+a snail's pace in total darkness. This, in a country of such rough roads
+and deep and dangerous gulleys and water-courses, was a most intricate
+and difficult proceeding. Eventually, however, we reached our
+destination about nine o'clock at night.
+
+This "auriferous" town is indeed a marvellous place, lying on the crest
+of a hill at an elevation of 5,000 feet above the level of the sea.
+Along its sides are spread out every variety of habitation, from the
+substantial brick and stone structures, which are being erected with
+extraordinary rapidity, to the multitude of galvanised iron dwellings,
+and the still not unfrequent tents of the first, and last comers. It is
+indeed a wonderful and bewildering sight to view it from the opposite
+hill across the intervening valley. Scarcely more than two years have
+elapsed since this town of twenty-five thousand inhabitants commenced
+its miraculous existence. The excitement and bustle of the motley crowd
+of gold seekers and gold finders is tremendous, the whole of the
+live-long day. The incessant subject of all conversation is gold, gold,
+gold. It is in all their thoughts, excepting, perhaps, a too liberal
+thought of drink. The people of Johannesburg think of gold; they talk of
+gold; they dream of gold. I believe, if they could, they would eat and
+drink gold. But, demoralising as this is to a vast number of those, who
+are in the vortex of the daily doings of this remarkable place, the
+startling fact is only too apparent to anyone who visits Johannesburg.
+It is to be hoped that the day will come when the legitimate pursuit of
+wealth will be followed in a less excitable, and a more calm and
+decorous manner, than at present regretably prevails.
+
+I spent a pleasant, as well as interesting, week at Johannesburg; and,
+during my stay, visited several of the mines, among them Knight's, the
+Jumpers, Robinson's, Langlaagte, &c. At Robinson's, I had an opportunity
+of inspecting the wonderful battery just completed, and in full working
+order, constructed on the most approved principles for gold crushing,
+with sixty head of stamps. It is a marvellous specimen of mechanical
+contrivance for crushing the ore. Many parts of the machinery work
+automatically. I ascended the various floors, and had all the processes
+minutely and clearly described to me in a most courteous manner, by the
+superintendent of the battery. I afterwards went down into the mine,
+first to the 70-feet, and then again to the 150-feet levels. In this
+way, I passed two hours wandering underground with a candle in my hand,
+and inspecting the gold-bearing lodes of one of the richest mines in the
+Randt. This mine possesses magnificent lodes, and millions of tons of
+gold-producing quartz. There is a prospect of most profitable results in
+it for years to come. Altogether, from what I have seen of the various
+gold mines of Johannesburg, I am satisfied of the permanence of its gold
+fields. Of course they are not all of equal value; but many, even of
+the poorer mines, when they come to be worked more scientifically, and
+on proper business principles, will ultimately be found to pay fairly,
+although they may never be destined to yield such brilliant results, as
+some of those I have mentioned. The Market Square (of which an
+illustration is given) is the largest in South Africa, covering an area
+of 1,300 feet in length, and 300 feet in width. Some idea of the growth
+of Johannesburg may be gathered from the fact, that at the latter part
+of the year 1886 there was not a Post Office in existence, whilst the
+revenue of that department for the first quarter of 1887 was L167, and
+at the end of 1888 it had risen to L7,588.
+
+[Illustration: JOHANNESBURG MARKET PLACE.]
+
+This extraordinary and rapid growth has unfortunately produced the usual
+results, when an immense population is suddenly planted on a limited
+area, without any proper sanitary arrangements being provided for their
+protection. From its elevated situation and naturally pure and dry
+atmosphere, Johannesburg ought to be a very healthy town. That it
+notoriously is not so, and that the amount of sickness and death-rate
+from fever and other diseases is abnormal, must, undoubtedly, be
+attributed to the great neglect and utter absence of an efficient system
+of drainage. I fear this state of things will continue; and the
+certainty of serious increase, as the population continues to grow
+rapidly, is only too likely, until there is established some kind of
+municipal body, acting under Governmental authority, to adopt a thorough
+and complete system of sanitation. It is to be hoped that the Transvaal
+Government, which is having its treasury so rapidly filled from the
+pockets of the British population, which is pouring into Johannesburg,
+as well as into so many other towns in the Transvaal, will awake in
+time to the importance of taking measures for thoroughly remedying this
+great and glaring evil, which is becoming such a scandal, as well as
+creating such widely spread and justifiable alarm among the British
+community in the Transvaal.[B]
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+[Footnote B: Since my return to England I am glad to hear that a
+Sanitary Board is to be established at Johannesburg.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PRETORIA.
+
+
+From Johannesburg I proceeded to Pretoria, a distance of about
+thirty-five miles, through a fine, and bold, and sometimes pretty
+country. Some of the views on the way were extensive and picturesque.
+Pretoria itself is an exceedingly pretty town, situated at the base of
+the surrounding hills. There is a continuous, and most abundant supply
+of water running through all the principal streets. Here, again, I was
+forcibly reminded of the absence of any municipal body--although
+Pretoria is the seat of Government--for dealing with the sanitary and
+other wants of the town. The dust, every day (as at Johannesburg), was
+intolerable, although, with the abundance of water flowing unceasingly
+through the streets, it would be the easiest thing in the world to apply
+it, as much as could possibly be wanted, to water them, and keep the
+dust down. I remained for three weeks at Pretoria. While there I
+attended some meetings of the Volksraad, accompanied by a Dutch friend
+who kept me _au fait_ of the proceedings by translating to me the
+speeches of the various members, on the subjects under discussion.
+
+The debates are held in a very large, somewhat low-pitched apartment.
+About fifty members were present. The President of the Volksraad sat at
+a table on a platform, covered with green cloth. On one side of him, at
+the same table, sat Paul Kruger, the President of the Transvaal
+Republic. General Joubert--who defeated the English at Majuba Hill--sat
+at a separate table on the left of the chairman.
+
+I was also present, more than once, at the sittings of the High Court of
+Justice. The proceedings are conducted both in English and Dutch.
+
+By the courtesy of the Chief Justice, I was introduced by him at a
+special interview, which lasted half-an-hour, to Paul Kruger. During our
+conversation, which was carried on by my speaking in English, translated
+into Dutch by the Chief Justice, I referred to the fact of my having
+been introduced to him in England some years ago. I went on to speak of
+my having come from England to South Africa to learn. That I had already
+learned much, and that I was much pleased with all I had seen,
+especially in the Transvaal, which seemed to me a country teeming with
+riches and great natural resources. That I was a great friend to
+railroads, and that I was never in a country which I thought required
+railroads so much as the Transvaal. I expressed a hope, therefore, to
+see the day when the country would be penetrated by them in every
+direction--east, and south, and west. The President smiled at my
+strongly expressed aspiration, but did not give me any other reply.
+
+Like every other town in the Transvaal, Pretoria shows signs of
+rapidly-growing prosperity. Public buildings and private dwelling-houses
+are springing up in every direction. The Post Office, recently finished,
+is capacious and commodious; and the new Government buildings for the
+accommodation of the Volksraad and the Courts of Justice, already
+commenced, but, as yet, only a few feet from the ground, and which cover
+a very large space, promise to be very fine and imposing. While at
+Pretoria I had ample opportunity for observing many of the prevalent
+features of both political and social life, and especially of the
+condition of the large native population of the town.
+
+The Pretoria winter races took place during my stay there. The races
+were very good and well-conducted. There was a large and orderly crowd
+who appeared thoroughly to enjoy themselves, and their outing in that
+fine and sunny climate. The Racecourse seemed a good one, though rather
+hard owing to the dry weather. It is in a very pretty spot with
+picturesque surroundings.
+
+The Kafirs, who are employed in great numbers, and who are earning high
+wages at their various occupations, are always to be seen, either
+working hard, or, after the hours of labour are over, amusing
+themselves cheerfully, chatting at street corners, walking, gossiping,
+and talking, and gratifying themselves by giving vent to their very
+voluble tongues. Here also, as at Johannesburg, at Potchefstroom, and at
+Klerksdorp, I was forcibly struck with the large amount of English
+spoken, as well as of the number of English names over the various shops
+in the Transvaal towns. This is an interesting and important fact, which
+marks the tendency of the direction of future development. The country
+must certainly become more and more anglicised, in spite of the
+political efforts made to oppose it.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+WATERBURG.
+
+
+I left Pretoria on July the 17th in a wagon with eight horses,
+accompanied by two friends, for an excursion into the Waterburg district
+of the Transvaal. On this occasion we travelled about one hundred and
+fifty miles north of Pretoria in the course of a fortnight, returning
+about the same distance back again. We had a half-breed servant named
+Sole with us, who made himself generally useful during our journey. All
+this time we camped out day and night, sleeping always in the open
+veldt, in true gipsy fashion.
+
+We went by the Van der Vroom Poort, having the Maalieburg range of
+mountains on our left.
+
+Our first night was spent at a farm called "Polonia," belonging to a
+Russian Missionary who has been for many years in the Transvaal. He
+unites the pursuits of spiritual instruction according to the tenets of
+the Greek Church, with farming on a large scale. On leaving "Polonia" we
+passed the large and picturesque German Mission Station of "Hebron,"
+which is situated in the midst of a rich and fertile valley. One night
+we outspanned at a spot called the "Salt Pans." While breakfast was
+being prepared the next morning, I walked to see those wonderful "Salt
+Pans," which were close to our camping ground. I descended by a steep
+path some six hundred or seven hundred feet to the bottom. It is an
+immense amphitheatre at the base of thickly wooded hills. It is larger
+in extent than the vast open excavation formed by the "Kimberley" Mine
+at Kimberley. The salt and soda brine is perpetually oosing from the
+bottom, and is continually being scraped up with a sort of wooden
+scraper into heaps, where, after a time, by the action of the
+atmosphere, it becomes crystallised. I picked up and brought away with
+me several crystals of pure salt. This is another of the marvels of the
+Transvaal, a country which abounds in natural wealth of all kinds,
+fitted for the service of man. These Salt Pans are the property of the
+Transvaal Government, which derives a considerable income from the tax
+imposed for taking away the salt, and soda, from them.
+
+Frequently during our journey we outspanned just outside the Kafir
+kraals, and often entered into them; one of my companions speaking the
+native, as well as the Dutch languages very fluently. We were always
+received by both Boers, and Kafirs, very kindly. Sometimes we were
+accompanied by a large number of Kafirs for days. I remember once,
+counting as many as forty Kafirs sitting round our camp fire, clothed
+and unclothed, and in every variety of costume, from the old British
+Artillery tunic to the equally ancient pea coat, the bright-coloured
+blue morning jacket, and the cloak of Jackall skins. On this occasion
+they remained all night with us, keeping up the fire and indulging in
+endless and cheerful talk among themselves. When I wrapped myself in my
+kaross and turned into the wagon at night I left them talking. When I
+awoke in the early morning I found them talking still.
+
+The country I saw in the Northern part of the Transvaal is very
+different, and far more picturesque than it is in the South-West or
+South-East, which have a close resemblance to one another, in their
+bare, barren, treeless, and dreary character. I saw some parts which
+were really beautiful. One day we drove for several miles through quite
+lovely scenery. In passing along the road I was forcibly reminded of the
+road between Braemar and Mar Lodge, in Aberdeenshire, which it strongly
+resembles. The road runs on the side of the hill, sloping down to the
+rivulet at the bottom, exactly like the river Dee, and the Rooiburg, or
+red tinted, Mountain, exactly resembles the heather on the Scottish
+hills. It is altogether a charming spot, and a perfect picture of fine
+scenery. There is a large quantity of excellent and valuable timber in
+this district, as well as abundant evidence of mineral-bearing quartz. I
+believe that, some day, other Johannesburgs are destined to rise in the
+Northern part of the Transvaal, rivalling, or perhaps even eclipsing,
+the treasures already discovered in the Randt.
+
+At the spot I have described, which is called Hartebeestepoort, not far
+from the banks of the Zand River, where there is a good quantity of
+excellent and valuable timber, there was quite a romantic scene one
+night. We were discussing, as usual, our evening meal round our camp
+fire. It was starlight, but otherwise we were in total darkness. In
+addition to ourselves, there were nine Kafirs, making a party of a dozen
+altogether. It was an intensely interesting and remarkable scene to me,
+to find myself surrounded by these wild fellows in perfectly friendly
+fashion, in the midst of the vast veldt, the silence and stillness only
+broken every now and then by the cry of the jackals howling in the
+distance. On leaving here we travelled north towards Grouthoek, which
+is situated in the midst of the Rhynoster range of mountains, being
+drawn by oxen, our horses following us, in order to give them rest, and
+so keep them fresher.
+
+I was disappointed at the small quantity of game we found on our
+journey. We occasionally shot a springbok, and I thus had an opportunity
+of making myself acquainted with the delicious flavour of the South
+African venison. But the days of the enormous herds which once abounded
+in these regions are gone. They have been either exterminated by the
+Boers, or been driven far northward, into the interior of Africa,
+together with the lions and elephants, over whose former habitation I
+was travelling. There are still a good many koodoos, and hartebeestes in
+this neighbourhood, but I was not fortunate enough to come across them.
+Our commissariat was occasionally supplemented by a delicious bird,
+about the size of a pheasant, called the kooran, as well as by a few
+pheasants, partridges, and guinea fowls.
+
+One afternoon we were exposed to a thrilling adventure, which, but for
+the merciful interposition of Providence, might have terminated in a
+most disastrous way. Suddenly, as we were driving along the road,
+through a dense wood, we discovered to the right of us the light of an
+immense bush fire. It was careering wildly along, fiercely burning, and
+sweeping everything before it. We saw it was coming swiftly towards the
+road we were travelling. We pulled up the horses, and taking out lucifer
+matches, jumped off the wagon, and tried to set alight to the grass,
+which was about five or six feet high, and very dry, close by us, in
+order to secure a clear open space around us. But it was too late. The
+fierce fire, to the height of several feet, was rushing and crashing
+through the wood furiously towards us. Another moment, and we should
+have been within its terrible grasp, and wagon, horses, and ourselves
+infallibly burnt. It was in truth an awful crisis. We jumped back into
+the wagon and pushed frantically forward. Showers of sparks were already
+in the road. But, fortunately, the fire, which for a full half mile was
+burning behind us, was only a short distance in front of us, and, thank
+God, we happily escaped.
+
+One of the great advantages I have derived from my tour is, that I have
+had many opportunities of communicating personally with so many men of
+different races, and all classes--British, Dutch, and natives.
+
+During my present journey I had a most interesting conversation one
+morning with a transport driver, who was travelling by the northern
+part of the Transvaal, with three hundred lean cattle from the Cape
+Colony into Bechuanaland. He gave me some very valuable and important
+information with regard to Colonial feeling in the country districts of
+the Cape Colony. He was Colonial born, and a fine, handsome man of about
+forty--a descendant of the Scotch farmers, who emigrated to the Cape in
+1820. His conversation impressed me much. He told me that the Colonists
+generally are loyal to the Queen to the backbone; but not to the British
+Government, which they consider has not represented their feelings and
+opinions, and has sacrificed their interests. They dislike the Colonial
+Government, and are not favourable to responsible Government, as they
+see it.
+
+They would prefer being under the British Government direct, in spite of
+all its terrible mistakes and mishaps, from which they have so cruelly
+suffered. My informant's opinion was, that the present policy of the
+administration in Bechuanaland is not conducive to encourage emigration,
+as it puts artificial impediments in the way of farmers with small means
+settling there, which, he thought, they would do in crowds from the
+Colony, if they were allowed to do so on paying a quit rent, say of L10
+or L15 per annum, instead of the high terms of L40 demanded at present.
+He had a very high opinion of Bechuanaland as a cattle-grazing country.
+
+The Waterburg warm sulphur baths--to which I paid a visit, taking a hot
+bath myself, which was certainly much too hot for me, but which was
+otherwise refreshing, after nearly a fortnight's residence on the veldt,
+where there is a decided scarcity of water, both for drinking and
+washing purposes--are situated about seventy miles north of Pretoria.
+They are extensively patronised by the Boers, and are said to be most
+efficacious in every variety of rheumatic and gouty complaints. They are
+strongly impregnated with sulphur, and might be made very attractive in
+the hands of anyone of enterprise, who would construct a suitable
+establishment of baths, fit for patients who would be quite ready to pay
+handsomely for them, instead of the miserably primitive and wretched
+receptacles, called baths, into which the highly excellent natural
+sulphur water is conveyed, and used by the motley crowd of invalids I
+saw there.
+
+From the Waterburg warm baths our route lay to the southward, across the
+Springbok Flats, to the Nylstroom road, along which, in two days more,
+we accomplished the intervening distance of about seventy miles back to
+Pretoria, thus concluding a most interesting and instructive journey
+into the northern part of the Transvaal. During all this time, with the
+exception of the first night, I lived entirely in our wagon, sleeping in
+it every night, and having every meal (which consisted principally of
+the game we shot on the way), cooked at the various camp fires kindled
+on the veldt, and drinking nothing but tea. I saw much, of course, of
+the Kafirs in their kraals, as well as of the Boers in their tents and
+wagons, in my trek through this wilderness.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PRETORIA TO NATAL.
+
+
+After reaching Pretoria, I stayed only two days there, engaged in
+bidding farewell to my numerous friends, and making preparations for my
+next long journey into Natal. I left Pretoria for Johannesburg by coach,
+on the 1st of August, and started from the latter town at five o'clock
+in the morning of the 3rd, in very cold weather and pitch dark, by the
+post cart. This most uncomfortable vehicle is a kind of wagonette, with
+somewhat dilapidated canvas curtains, through which the wind whistled
+most unpleasantly, being utterly insufficient to keep out the cold. It
+is drawn by eight horses, and has cramped seats for eight or ten
+passengers. On this occasion there were seven others besides myself. In
+addition the mail bags were crammed inconveniently under the seats. In
+this post cart I travelled for three days and two nights by way of
+Richmond, Heidelburg, Standerton,--where cattle rearing and horse
+breeding is successfully carried on,--and Newcastle, which will be
+remembered as having been the base of operations during the Boer war,
+and also as the place where the final treaty of Peace was drawn up and
+signed by the joint Commission, to Eland's Laagte, the present terminus
+of the Natal railway, thirteen miles beyond Ladysmith. At Eland's Laagte
+a very promising coal field is being worked, from which great and
+important results are expected in the future. Soon after crossing the
+Transvaal border we passed the battle fields of Laing's Nek, Majuba
+Hill, and Ingogo, names indelibly associated with one of the saddest, as
+well as most humiliating, episodes of English modern military history,
+in connection with the Transvaal War of 1881. I gazed mournfully on
+Majuba Hill, that black spot of bitter memories to every Briton, and of
+natural exultation and pride to the Boers; and on Colley's grave, the
+unfortunate commander, whose unhappy and most unaccountable military
+blunder led to the lamentable and fatal defeat, which cost him his life,
+and resulted in the miserable fiasco--the retrocession of the Transvaal
+to the Boers. It is impossible to estimate the damage done to British
+influence, prestige, and power by the political consequences resulting
+from that disastrous day.
+
+[Illustration: CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL.]
+
+The south-eastern part of the Transvaal is as bare, and treeless, and
+altogether as uninteresting and unattractive as the south western
+region, between Bechuanaland and Klerksdorp, through which I had
+travelled a few weeks previously. The instant, however, the border is
+crossed, and Natal is entered, the scene is at once changed, and the
+beauty of the surrounding country becomes apparent. Instead of the flat,
+wearisome desert of the Transvaal, undulating hills, clothed with
+verdure, and an extensive panorama of broad and fertile plains meets the
+eye.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+MARITZBURG.
+
+
+After leaving Ladysmith, I proceeded to Maritzburg, the seat of
+Government of Natal. This picturesque town is in a charming situation,
+the surrounding scenery being extremely pretty. The town itself, is well
+laid out, the streets being wide, and in most cases edged with trees.
+Amongst its public buildings may be mentioned the new House of Assembly,
+of which Sir John Akerman is Speaker. It is a handsome edifice, well
+arranged, and economically constructed at a cost of L20,000. A life-size
+statue of Her Majesty is to be erected in the front of the building,
+the pedestal of which is already _in situ_.
+
+While staying at Government House, and enjoying the kind hospitality of
+Sir Charles and Lady Mitchell, my ear was often gladdened by the sound
+of the cavalry bugle and the roll of the drum, those striking symbols of
+British sway, as the troops passed my window in their early morning
+rides. I am persuaded that these outward evidences of latent power,
+impress not only the minds of Englishmen, but of natives also, in this
+distant land. There cannot be a doubt of the influence exercised by the
+British race over the aboriginal inhabitants of South Africa. That this
+should be used, at all times, with justice, tact, and discretion, "goes
+without saying;" but that it is a factor of great effect on their minds
+is unquestionable.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN MARITZBURG.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+DURBAN.
+
+
+The railway journey from Maritzburg to Durban, a distance of fifty-seven
+miles by road, is long and rather tedious travelling on account of the
+slow pace. The line (a single one), which seems to have been very
+skilfully engineered, is necessarily constructed with such steep
+gradients that this seems inevitable. The long stoppages at stations
+might be certainly improved. Durban is the prettiest as well as one of
+the cleanest, and most well-ordered towns I have seen in South Africa. I
+was at once struck with the Town Hall, a magnificent building, recently
+erected, and generally stated to be, although not the largest, in some
+respects the handsomest in South Africa. The total cost of construction
+was about L50,000, and it is worthy of note that in their selection of
+an architect, the Corporation of Durban did not have to go beyond their
+own town, an efficient man being found in Mr. P.M. Dudgeon. The building
+is of the Corinthian order of architecture, having a frontage of 206
+feet, with a depth of 270 feet. It is prettily situated, and is a
+striking proof of what colonists can do when an occasion demanding
+skill, and perseverance, arises. There are several other fine buildings
+in the town. A stranger coming from the Transvaal is immediately
+impressed with the contrast between the careless indifference, which
+marks the absence of proper municipal arrangements in the towns of the
+South African Republic, and the proofs of their presence in an
+energetic British community. The Natalians certainly deserve the
+greatest credit for the way in which they carry on the business and
+manage the public affairs of their prosperous, and thriving town, which
+has a population of 17,000, of whom about 9,000 are Europeans. Recent
+commercial returns show that the trade of Natal, of which Durban, as the
+seaport town, is the centre, is rapidly increasing.
+
+[Illustration: TOWN HALL, DURBAN.]
+
+The imports during the first three-quarters of the year 1888 were about
+two millions; and in 1889, during the same period, they had risen to
+three millions. The exports during 1888 were one million; for the same
+period in 1889 they were one million and a quarter. Imports have
+advanced 50 per cent., exports by 25 per cent. Customs revenue has
+advanced by 25 per cent., and if the receipts be maintained, which is
+more than probable, the total income for the year from this source will
+reach L350,000. It is anticipated that the combined trade of Natal for
+the year 1889 will not be far short of six millions sterling. The
+increase is a substantial one, and, what is more satisfactory, is that
+there appears to be every reasonable prospect that the trade will go on
+increasing by leaps and bounds. Affairs are in a generally prosperous
+state, and a good sign is to be found in the fact that the emigration
+returns are also rapidly rising.
+
+[Illustration: HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN.]
+
+The gigantic Harbour Works, commenced and now nearly successfully
+completed for the purpose of removing the bar, according to the plans
+both of Sir John Coode, and subsequently of his pupil, their late
+lamented engineer, Mr. Innes, and under the active personal
+superintendence of their distinguished townsman the Chairman of the
+Harbour Board, comprise an undertaking of which the citizens of Durban
+may well be proud. Nor is less credit due to them, and to their spirited
+leaders, for their enterprise in so rapidly pushing on their railway to
+the Transvaal border, in the confident expectation that they will be the
+first to bring the benefits of that most necessary modern mode of
+conveyance, both for passengers and goods, into the heart of the
+Transvaal Republic.
+
+The Harbour Works, the Railway, and the Durban Town Hall are all works
+of sufficient magnitude to give undoubted evidence of the public spirit
+and unconquerable energy of the people of Natal.
+
+The inhabitants of Durban are fortunate in possessing picturesque
+surroundings to their pretty town. The "Berea," one of its most
+attractive spots, is an elevated suburb where many of the principal
+merchants, and others have their residences. It commands a lovely
+prospect over the bay, and a beautiful view of the country inland.
+
+During, my stay at Durban I paid visits to two of the most remarkable
+places in the neighbourhood. These were the Natal Central Sugar
+Company's manufactory at Mount Edgcumbe, and the famous Trappist
+establishment at Marionhill. The sugar manufactory is situated on a farm
+of some 8,000 acres, about 15 miles from Durban. A short railway ride
+brought me to it. I was courteously received by the manager, Monsieur
+Dumat. This gentleman, a Frenchman of great experience in the
+manufacture of sugar both in India and Mauritius, has been at Mount
+Edgcumbe for the last ten years. He is remarkable for the way in which
+he maintains order and control over all his numerous native workmen. In
+the mill itself there are 160 men employed, everyone of whom is a
+Coolie. There is not a single white man on the premises, excepting two
+English clerks in the counting house. I was astonished at the perfect
+order which reigned in the mill, where I spent some time. Everyone
+appeared to perform his allotted task with activity, cheerfulness, and
+untiring perseverance. Monsieur Dumat told me he could never get the
+same steady work from white workmen. He seems to govern them all with
+perfect tact and kindness. Some of them have been with him for many
+years. There are about 900 other men, Kafirs and Coolies, employed on
+the farm. I was shown all the various processes of sugar manufacture,
+from the crushing of the cane, to the crystallising of the sugar. The
+first sorts are ready for sale in forty-eight hours; other qualities
+require a week, and again even as much as six months to perfect them.
+There is some wonderful machinery in the mill.
+
+The Trappist establishment at Marionhill is one which should be seen by
+everyone visiting Natal. It is reached by rail from Durban in about an
+hour's ride to the Pine Town station. A drive from thence of about four
+miles brings a visitor to Marionhill. The monks, as is well known, are
+under a vow of strict silence. I was met by one of them at the station,
+who drove me in a waggonette to the Trappist farm. Here I was met by,
+and presented to, the Abbot. He is the real leader and director of this
+remarkable establishment. He devoted three hours to taking me over it,
+and showing me all the various industries and works which are carried
+on. About two hundred brothers are there at present, but more are
+expected shortly, and upwards of one hundred sisters, and about three
+hundred Kafirs. The latter are taught, not only the ordinary branches
+of a practical education (of course including religion), but all sorts
+of handicraft. It is, emphatically, a school of technical education.
+Everything is manufactured and made at Marionhill, from the substantial
+bullock wagons, and the delicate spiders, to the baking of bread, the
+building of houses, stables, and cattle lairs, the printing of
+periodicals, and book-binding. Work is the great and leading feature of
+the Trappist creed. The motive power is religion. Its controlling
+influence is here complete.
+
+I came away quite amazed at all I saw, as well as pleased at the
+attention I received from the Abbot. He is certainly a very remarkable
+man, of great natural gifts, and indomitable energy and power. He is
+sixty-five years of age. He was born on the shores of Lake Constance;
+and before he took to studying for the Roman Catholic Church in a
+German University, he was employed, as he told me, in early life in the
+care of cattle at his native home.
+
+The Trappist farm is beautifully situated, and within its area contains
+some really fine scenery. The Kafir women's part of the establishment is
+distinct, and quite half a mile distant from the men's quarters. Women
+are taught to sew, and sing, to cut out and make dresses, to cook,
+clean, and go through all the usual routine of household work. The
+costume of the female Trappists, who, as well as the male, are highly
+educated, is scarlet serge, with white aprons. The men are clothed in
+brown serge.
+
+I was struck with the admirable arrangement of the stables, constructed
+for twenty horses, and of the cow and cattle sheds. All the engineering
+works also show evidences of the complete knowledge of science possessed
+by the "brothers," and their energetic leader. I came away much
+interested, and wonderfully impressed with all I had seen in this
+remarkable institution.
+
+Up to the present time the defences of the Colony have been in a very
+backward state but I was glad to find that a battery is in course of
+construction, commanding the entrance to the Bay, which is to be armed
+with guns of the latest pattern, one of them having recently arrived at
+Durban.
+
+Having passed ten very pleasant days at Durban and its neighbourhood, I
+embarked, on the 15th of August, on board the coasting steamer,
+_Anglian_, for Port Elizabeth. I had a terrible experience of the
+annoyance of the present mode of embarking passengers at Durban. After
+attempting to get over the Bar in a tremendous sea, we were obliged to
+put back into the Harbour thoroughly drenched. Once more attempting it,
+we succeeded after another good wetting in getting alongside the
+_Anglian_, where we remained at anchor until the morning, waiting for
+the Cargo Boat we were obliged to leave behind, rolling and pitching all
+night. The eastern coast of South Africa is subject to weather which is
+often very rough and stormy; and I was, unluckily, destined to
+experience it. I certainly had a most disagreeable time, in making this
+short voyage. After touching at East London, where extensive harbour
+works are being constructed, I was landed at Port Elizabeth (after three
+days' knocking about at sea) on the 18th, being let down, like St. Paul,
+in a basket, from the deck of the _Anglian_ to the tug, which took me to
+the pier in the open roadstead. Right glad was I to get on _terra firma_
+again.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PORT ELIZABETH.
+
+
+Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay) which is generally known as the "Liverpool"
+of South Africa, is the chief seaport of the Eastern Province, its trade
+being steadily increased by the development of the Transvaal Gold
+Fields, and the growth of the interior towns of the Cape Colony. It is a
+thriving business town. Its inhabitants, like those of Natal, are
+thoroughly energetic and active in the pursuit of their various
+mercantile avocations, and number about 12,000, a large proportion being
+Europeans.
+
+The town contains many fine buildings, the most conspicuous being the
+Town Hall and Public Library combined, which is a striking edifice,
+erected at a cost of L26,000. Attached to it is the market, leading out
+of which is a splendid and capacious hall, 180 feet long by 90 feet
+broad. Here I saw a curious and unique scene. Long tables were extended
+along its entire length, on which were arranged large heaps of ostrich
+feathers, carefully tied up, and sampled for sale. Port Elizabeth is the
+staple market for this industry. The value of the feathers I saw, I was
+told, was something fabulous.
+
+Port Elizabeth is a handsome town. In the upper part of it, called the
+Hill, there are many good private residences, and an excellent club
+house, at which I stayed, and enjoyed the kind hospitality, courteously
+extended to me.
+
+A large, well kept, and conveniently laid out botanical garden, which
+is much resorted to, is a great attraction to the town. There is also an
+excellent hospital at Port Elizabeth. I was much pleased with its
+appearance, and with the arrangements made for the comfort of the
+patients. The ventilation struck me as being particularly perfect. There
+is accommodation for 100 patients, male and female. A well-arranged
+children's ward, attracts much attention, especially with the lady
+visitors.
+
+There is, in addition, a good water supply obtained from Van Staden's
+River, distant about twenty-seven miles from the town, at a cost of
+about L150,000.
+
+There are several Churches, including Trinity Church, St. Augustine's
+Roman Catholic Cathedral, the Scottish Presbyterian Church, and a
+Congregational Church, upon which no less a sum than L7,715 was
+expended.
+
+Previously to leaving Port Elizabeth, the following address was
+presented to me by the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute resident
+there:--
+
+     TO SIR, FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.,
+
+     _A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute._
+
+     "SIR,
+
+     "We, the undersigned Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute, take
+     advantage of your presence amongst us to join in the expression of
+     hearty welcome to South Africa, which has greeted you in the
+     several towns where you have met the Members of the Institute, with
+     which you have been so long and honourably connected.
+
+     "We are mindful of the valuable services which you have so long
+     rendered to our Institute, as Honorary Secretary, the indefatigable
+     zeal ever displayed by you in forwarding the interests of the
+     Colonies of Great Britain; and that the success of the
+     Institution, over which you now preside, as one of the
+     Vice-Presidents, is in no small degree due to your exertions. We
+     venture to hope that your visit to South Africa has been an
+     agreeable one, and that with renewed health you will return home to
+     resume and continue the valuable services you have heretofore
+     rendered, and that the Royal Colonial Institute may continue to
+     flourish under the auspices of the distinguished men who so ably
+     guard its interests."
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+GRAHAMSTOWN.
+
+
+While I was at Port Elizabeth I paid a flying visit to Grahamstown. A
+railway journey of rather over one hundred miles carried me there. The
+railway runs through the veldt, where wild elephants are still strictly
+preserved. There are said to be more than one hundred of these animals
+in the district. They occasionally do great damage to the line. During
+my stay I was hospitably entertained by the Bishop. I had already heard
+that Grahamstown was noted for its natural charms, and its appearance
+certainly did not disappoint me. Beautiful in situation, it merits the
+high praises which have been bestowed upon it. It has also acquired a
+reputation for being the seat of learning, and the centre of the
+principal educational establishments of the Colony. The Bishop having
+kindly provided me with a carriage, I drove to see the various objects
+of interest in the neighbourhood. I first went to the Botanical Gardens,
+which are very striking. They contain a large collection of rare and
+valuable specimens of both arboriculture and horticulture. They are
+admirably kept, and are very ornamental. I next drove round the Mountain
+road. This is a beautiful drive of seven miles back into the town. The
+views of the surrounding country are superb. It is a priceless boon to
+the inhabitants of Grahamstown to possess such an attractive and
+health-giving spot, for their recreation and enjoyment. I afterwards
+visited the Museum, where there is a most interesting and valuable
+collection of animal, vegetable, and mineral curiosities, both ancient
+and modern. I also went over the Prison, and recorded in the visitors'
+book my favourable opinion of the arrangements made for the health and
+comfort of the prisoners. They appeared to me to be all that could
+reasonably be expected, or desired. I also went to see the Kafir school,
+carried on under the careful management of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. M----.
+
+I regretted that time did not permit of my visiting the celebrated
+Ostrich Farm of Mr. Arthur Douglass, at Heatherton Towers, about fifteen
+miles from Grahamstown. Mr. Douglass has the largest and most successful
+Ostrich Farm in the Colony, in addition to which he is the patentee of
+an egg hatching machine, or incubator, which is very much used in
+various parts of South Africa. The export of feathers has increased
+rapidly, and has become one of the chief exports of the Colony, as
+whilst in 1868 the quantity exported was valued at L70,000, in 1887 it
+had reached the value of L365,587. This is by no means the largest
+amount appearing under the head of exports during recent years, as in
+1882 the value of feathers exported was L1,093,989. It is estimated that
+during the past half-century the total weight of the feathers exported
+has been more than one thousand tons. The Cape Colony has, in fact, had
+a monopoly of the ostrich industry, but in 1884 several shipments of
+ostriches took place to South Australia, the Argentine Republic, and to
+California, and the Government of the Cape Colony, being alarmed, that
+the Colony was in danger of losing its lucrative monopoly, imposed an
+export tax of L100 on each ostrich, and L5 on each ostrich egg
+exported.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.
+
+
+On my return to Port Elizabeth, I spent another day or two there, and
+left on the evening of Monday, the 26th of August, by railway for Cape
+Town. This long journey of between eight hundred and nine hundred miles
+occupies nearly two days and two nights. It was the last I took in South
+Africa. The country, generally speaking, is very much of the same kind
+as that northward, over the Karoo, and in the southern part of the
+Transvaal. High land,--in the neighbourhood of Nieupoort 5,050 feet
+above the sea level,--flat, bare, and treeless. It is certainly a very
+desolate-looking country to travel over in winter. Nearing Cape Town,
+however, I ought not to omit to mention the Hex River Pass. The scenery
+here is certainly very grand, and is some of the best of its kind I have
+seen in South Africa. The railway, which winds through it by a
+succession of zigzags from a great height, is another of the many
+triumphs of engineering skill which are to be found in all parts of the
+world. The fine views of the Pass, when I traversed it, were heightened
+by the tops of the mountains being tinged with a wreath of snow. From
+Hex River the route to Cape Town lay through a rich and fertile valley,
+conveying ample proofs of the agricultural value and resources of this
+part of the Cape Colony. I arrived at Cape Town in the afternoon of the
+following Wednesday. Here I spent another pleasant week, seeing various
+friends.
+
+[Illustration: HEX RIVER PASS.]
+
+One of the last duties which devolved upon me before leaving South
+Africa--at the urgent invitation of some of my friends--was to deliver
+an address at Cape Town on Imperial Federation. This I did at the hall
+of the Young Men's Christian Society, to a large and attentive
+audience.[C]
+
+On the 4th of September I left Cape Town in the s.s. _Athenian_; and,
+after a pleasant and rapid voyage of eighteen days, touching only at
+Madeira on the way, I landed safely at Southampton on Sunday the 22nd.
+
+I have now given an account of the prominent features of my tour, during
+which, in the course of five months, I travelled about twelve thousand
+miles by sea, and four thousand by land.
+
+I proceed to touch as briefly as I can, on a few of the public
+questions, and other matters of interest which have arrested my
+attention while I was in South Africa.
+
+[Footnote C: See Appendix.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+CLIMATE.
+
+
+The climate of South Africa has already been so well, and exhaustively
+described, in the admirable and interesting paper, read at a meeting of
+the Royal Colonial Institute, on the 13th November, 1888, by Dr. Symes
+Thompson, that it seems superfluous for anyone to attempt to add
+anything to what such an eminent professional authority has said on the
+subject. But I cannot help remarking that, from my own personal
+experience, I can fully corroborate all he has said in its favour. The
+winter climate seems perfect. The atmosphere is so bright and clear, the
+air is so dry, and the sun is so agreeably warm in the day, although it
+is cold and frosty at night, that I think it must be as salubrious, as
+it has been to me most enjoyable. I found this the case everywhere,
+especially in the higher altitudes, and on the elevated veldt of the
+Transvaal. For myself, I never had an hour's illness during the whole
+winter I passed in South Africa; and this I attribute entirely to the
+purity of the air, and the dryness of the climate. One thing it is
+necessary to be cautious about, and I have an impression that it is not
+sufficiently attended to, and is consequently frequently the cause of
+illness, and injury. There is always a sudden great variation of the
+temperature immediately the sun goes down. To a sensitive person this is
+instantly perceptible. In the afternoon everyone ought to be very
+careful in guarding against this change; and should be provided with an
+extra garment to put on at sunset, in order to avoid a dangerous chill.
+I strongly advise, also, temperance in the use of alcoholic beverages,
+which, in my opinion, are far too freely consumed. I have noticed too
+much drinking among all classes. This cannot be necessary, or very
+conducive to the preservation of health, and the prolongation of life,
+in a climate like that of South Africa.
+
+It is to be earnestly hoped, that a good, and thoroughly efficient
+system of sanitary organisation may be speedily established in all the
+rapidly-growing towns throughout the country, especially in the
+Transvaal. Terrible neglect in this respect has been the cause of
+exceptional sickness, and great mortality in the past, for which the
+climate is not responsible. In order, too, to render the undoubted
+excellencies of the South African climate more attractive to invalids,
+who ought more largely to avail themselves of its advantages, it would
+be an excellent thing, as well as undoubtedly a paying speculation, if
+better hotels, fitted up in all respects with all modern European
+improvements, were established both at Cape Town, and at all the other
+principal towns up country, as well.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+THE NATIVE QUESTION.
+
+
+The native question is one of the most prominent and difficult ones to
+deal with in South Africa. The great preponderance of the native over
+the white races, and the different theories of treating them prevalent
+between the English and Dutch, render it one of the most perplexing
+problems to solve. The wisest and most experienced people, with whom I
+have communicated on the subject are of opinion that the natives are so
+far behind us in civilisation that they must be regarded as mere
+children. This means, however, that they are not to be treated harshly,
+but, on the contrary, with the utmost fairness and justice, and that
+they must be under the guidance of a controlling and firmly governing
+hand. They respect authority, when they have confidence in its being
+exercised with impartiality. They have a great deal of natural
+shrewdness, and they must never be deceived. Alas! I heard of frequent
+instances of this having been done, in times past, by those who have
+represented the British Government. Promises have been made to them
+which have been carelessly broken, and this means ruin to the prestige
+in their minds of the British name.
+
+From the wonderful and ever-increasing development which has taken place
+in the northern part of South Africa since the discovery of diamonds and
+gold, causing the employment of thousands upon thousands of native
+Kafirs at high wages, their social position is being materially changed.
+They are really becoming "masters of the situation." Their constant
+contact with white people is having the effect of introducing among them
+the germs of an incipient civilisation. The mode of treating them by the
+British and the Dutch is, undoubtedly, very different. A far harsher and
+more cruel method has been in vogue by the Dutch towards them, than
+would be tolerated by the British. But, from the cause to which I have
+alluded, the day has arrived when all this old system is sensibly
+changing; and the Draconian code of the Boers, from the force of
+circumstances, is becoming modified every day. I have made it my
+business to observe carefully all the signs of the times, on this native
+question during my tour. I have seen the Kafirs in thousands working in
+the mines at Kimberley, and Klerksdorp, and Johannesburg; I have
+observed them in multitudes employed in extensive building operations
+at Pretoria, and as labourers on the public works at Maritzburg and
+Durban, and at the other great shipping centres of Port Elizabeth and
+Cape Town; I have noticed them in their capacity of servants in private
+houses, and I frankly confess that no evidence has been brought before
+me to indicate, that they are harshly or unkindly treated. On the
+contrary, it appeared to me that they are receiving good wages, and are
+everywhere well cared for and comfortable. They are naturally a lively
+and a happy race, and I have seen them as cheerful and light-hearted in
+the town, as in their kraals on the wild and open veldt.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+RAILWAYS.
+
+
+I have already mentioned that, in my interview with the President, Paul
+Kruger, I told him that I was never in a country, which, in my opinion,
+required railways more than the Transvaal, and that I hoped to see the
+day when it would be penetrated by them in every direction. It is much
+to be regretted that there is so much jealous rivalry, inducing fierce
+contention, as to the precise direction, from the east, or south, or
+west, railroads should enter the Transvaal. I contend, that there is
+such a prospect of future enormous development in this wonderful centre
+of South Africa, that there is no need for all this rivalry, but that
+there is room for many lines in which all may participate and prosper,
+in the future. Political considerations have undoubtedly complicated a
+question, which I should wish to regard solely from its commercial
+aspect.
+
+Personally, I am anxious to see the line over the ground which I have
+myself treked, pushed on as speedily as possible, from Kimberley to
+Vryburg, and thence through British Bechuanaland to Mafeking, and so on,
+northwards, into the Matabele country, with branches eastward into the
+Transvaal. But I should like, also, to see the contemplated line
+constructed from Kimberley, through the Orange Free State, to
+Bloemfontein; and the Delagoa Bay Railway carried on to Pretoria, as
+well as the Natal line to Johannesburg; and, in fact, any other, whether
+through Swaziland, or elsewhere, which commercial enterprise may
+hereafter project. They will all have the effect of opening up the
+Transvaal--the El Dorado of South Africa--and meeting the demand for
+the transit of the enormous traffic, with which the old system of
+bullock wagons is utterly unable to grapple, and which, consequently, is
+so fearfully congested. The transport riders will have ample
+compensation, under the new system, in their increased employment in the
+conveyance of goods from the various stations to their actual
+destination. It was in this way the coach proprietors, without loss, and
+with great advantage to themselves, became the great and successful
+railway carriers, when stage coaches were superseded by railways in
+England.
+
+Since I arrived in England, Sir Gordon Sprigg, in an important speech
+delivered at Kimberley, referred to the question of railway extension
+from that town in the following words:--"With the South Atlantic Ocean
+for our base, we started with our railway, and then we came up to
+Kimberley. From this place we have only fifty or sixty miles to go
+over, and then we come to the border of this province, and of British
+Bechuanaland. Farther north, we get to that ill-defined sphere, called
+the sphere of influence, that extended the power of Britain in South
+Africa, as far as the Zambesi.... Now that we have our railway up to
+Kimberley, we have the British South African Company to take it in hand,
+and the object of the Government is to see that we have an extension
+line into these territories which will, in time to come, be recognised
+as portions of the Cape Colony. Gentlemen, I and my colleagues have come
+to the conclusion, that we cannot better advance the best interests of
+South Africa than by joining hand-in-hand to advance British interests
+westward of the Transvaal State, and right up to the Zambesi. Well,
+then, that being so, I may say, that the first object of the Company,
+in order to carry on their operations to the best purpose, is to
+construct a railway from Kimberley to Vryburg. The section from
+Kimberley to Warrenton has, of course, first to be undertaken, and from
+there on to Vryburg, as the second section. The Company are in
+possession of the requisite funds to carry out this great work; and
+there is no reason why it should not be accomplished before many month's
+are over. The Government of this country (Cape Colony) have come to the
+conclusion that it is desirable that this work should be carried out,
+and an arrangement has been made between the Government of this country
+and Mr. Rhodes as representing the British South African Company,
+whereby a railway starting from Kimberley up to Vryburg will be
+constructed by the British South African Company. Certain conditions
+have been entered into between the Company and the Government of this
+Colony, under which the Government of the Colony will have the right to
+take over the railway at any time they think proper, on certain
+conditions to be entered into by one side or the other. This railway
+extension is to be immediately proceeded with. You may take it as a
+moral certainty that you will be able to travel by railway up to
+Warrenton, some time in the course of next year. The Government have
+come to the conclusion that it is in the interests of South Africa that
+this work shall be carried on; that, in short, it would be highly
+injudicious to place any obstacles in the way of an undertaking which is
+calculated to have so beneficial an effect on the prospects of this part
+of Her Majesty's Empire." This Speech, coming from the Premier of the
+Cape Colony, requires no comment from me, beyond the expression of my
+satisfaction at its having been made.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+COLONISATION.
+
+
+Colonisation is a subject on which I wish to say a few words. The
+definition given by Adam Smith of the three elements of national wealth,
+"Land, Labour, and Capital," cannot be too often repeated. How to blend
+them in proper proportions, is a problem, which has puzzled generations
+of statesmen, philosophers, and philanthropists. I have always been a
+warm advocate for colonisation. It appears to me to be a question of
+such supreme national importance, that I think it ought to be undertaken
+by the State. This, of course, means, that it is possible, as it is
+undoubtedly indispensable, to get a Government to act wisely and well.
+In order to have a chance of its being successful, colonisation must be
+conducted on sound principles and practice.
+
+In South Africa I have seen millions of acres of fertile land--in
+Bechuanaland, in Natal, in the Eastern and Western provinces of the Cape
+Colony, to say nothing of the Transvaal--capable of supporting many
+thousands of our surplus population. But I have also satisfied myself,
+that it is no use whatever to transplant those, who are unfitted for it.
+Instead of a success, certain failure will be the result of an attempt
+so unwise. Colonial life is alone suitable for the enterprising,
+energetic, steady, and industrious men, and women, who are determined,
+with patience and courage, to overcome the difficulties and trials,
+which they must certainly encounter on the road to ultimate success.
+South Africa is a land of promise for them. It is by no means so for
+the feeble, the self-indulgent, the helplessly dependent class, of whom,
+unfortunately, we have so large a number in the over-populated Old
+Country. Cordial co-operation with the self-governing colonies is also
+absolutely indispensable to ensure success in any national system of
+colonisation. It is equally essential that a strict selection of the
+right sort of people should be made. According, too, to their positions
+in life, they must be provided with sufficient means to support them on
+their first arrival, while they are settling themselves, and their crops
+are growing, and they are acquiring knowledge, of the natural conditions
+of the new land, to which they have been transplanted.
+
+These are the principles necessary to be observed in any national system
+of colonisation. They apply to all the other British Colonies, equally
+with South Africa, in order to prevent failure, and command success.
+
+While speaking of this subject, I should like to mention a suggestion
+for a system of special colonisation, which may well attract the serious
+attention of the Home Government, with the view of encouraging and
+promoting it.
+
+In the military garrisons, comprising the British troops, quartered in
+South Africa, there are a considerable number of steady, and
+well-conducted married men, non-commissioned officers and soldiers, who,
+having been stationed for some time in the midst of its genial climate,
+and pleasant surroundings, would, I feel satisfied, like, if sufficient
+inducement were offered them, to make South Africa their permanent home.
+If, therefore, a military colony were established at the expense of the
+Home Government in a well and wisely-selected spot and under proper and
+judicious arrangement, it would probably be, not only a great boon to a
+number of deserving British subjects, but would be attended with
+success, and be a politic, and interesting factor in the art of
+colonisation.
+
+I earnestly commend the idea to those, who would have to deal with it,
+as an experiment, eminently worthy of their attention and support.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+THE POLITICAL SITUATION.
+
+
+The political situation of South Africa is the last subject to which I
+shall refer. I am quite aware that this is a very difficult and delicate
+question to touch upon, but it would be impossible for anyone like
+myself, to whom it has presented itself so prominently during my tour,
+to avoid some allusion to it. I shall endeavour to state my impressions
+impartially and fairly.
+
+Before I went to South Africa I had formed a general opinion on this
+vitally important and very critical subject. My previous views have been
+most thoroughly confirmed, and painfully accentuated by all I have
+seen, and heard, and gathered, on the spot. The mournful mismanagement
+of South African affairs during the last twenty-five years, and most
+especially during the last decade, has been truly lamentable, and cannot
+fail to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton,
+and true-hearted patriot.
+
+The absence of continuous, wise, and statesmanlike policy, which has for
+the most part marked the tone of those, who have had the Imperial
+guidance and control of South African affairs in the past, has had the
+effect of sowing the seeds of enmity to the Government of the Mother
+Country, which it will require all the wisdom, and tact, and
+conciliatory sympathy possible to be displayed in the future, in dealing
+with this magnificent part of the Empire, to allay. It will demand the
+greatest skill to prevent the permanent alienation, and estrangement of
+South Africa from Great Britain.
+
+This has all been brought about by our unaccountably careless and
+culpable want of accurate knowledge at home, of the actual situation. We
+lost a splendid chance of consolidating South Africa in a homogeneous
+union under the British crown. Our insular in difference, our ignorance,
+the fierce animosity of our party political prejudices, made us neglect
+the opportunity. It has had the effect of creating the sorest feelings
+against us, on the part of the large English population, spread over the
+land, which is uncontaminated and uninfluenced by the party spirit of
+local colonial politicians. It is melancholy, and most deplorable to
+observe the indications of this feeling, which are constantly apparent.
+The old love for the British flag is still widely cherished; but it was
+impossible for me to shut my eyes to the evidence so continually
+brought before me, that the British Government is neither loved nor
+respected. No confidence whatever is felt in it--and no wonder!
+Everywhere there are proofs of how all have been allowed to suffer and
+smart under it.
+
+Either from ignorance, or carelessness, or indifference--probably from
+all combined--and perhaps even unconsciously, but at the same time as
+surely, we have deceived the Natives, the Boers, and the Colonists. This
+is only the natural consequence of the feeble, vacillating, uncertain
+course, which is followed, when the State machine is guided without
+compass, and where there is no firmness, nor courage at the national
+helm. What we have to do, however, now, is to advocate union and
+co-operation between the two dominant races--the British and the
+Dutch--and to do all we can to promote harmony and goodwill between
+them. True, their mental character, and natural instincts are
+different. Our own race is essentially energetic and progressive; while
+theirs is slow, unemotional, and phlegmatic. But if sympathy, and tact,
+and cordial good temper, are invariably practised in our intercourse
+with them, I am persuaded it will ultimately have the effect of
+promoting co-operation in securing their mutual interests. This, I
+trust, will ultimately neutralise the effect of the fatal course of past
+political action, which unnecessarily developed race jealousies, and
+stimulated national friction and animosity; and will bring about in the
+future, a blending of the Dutch in friendly union and fellowship with
+the British, such as has been undreamed of in the past.
+
+Among many expressions of opinion on the subject of the political
+situation made to me while I was in South Africa, I received the
+following communication from a gentleman of prominent position in one
+of the principal towns of the Cape Colony. It appears to me of such
+importance that I avail myself of this opportunity of giving publicity
+to it.
+
+     "The fact of your arrival at very short notice, combined with the
+     fact that there are only a few Fellows of the Royal Colonial
+     Institute resident here, will probably prevent the presentation of
+     any formal address of welcome to you.
+
+     "Nevertheless, to a section of the community which is animated by
+     patriotic jealousy for the rights and dignity of the Crown
+     throughout South Africa, your visit is regarded with feelings of
+     genuine satisfaction, and our hopes are encouraged, that your visit
+     may result in some good to the cause, which we have at heart.
+
+     "You are doubtless acquainted well enough with the principal events
+     of great national moment of recent years in South Africa. From
+     whatever point of view politicians may like to regard the end of
+     the Transvaal war, any resident in this country can be only too
+     well aware of the fact that one result of that terrible experience
+     has been, a material weakening of respect for English people, and
+     for the rights of the Crown throughout the Cape Colony.
+
+     "Since the period referred to, a very powerful Dutch-Africander
+     combination has come into existence, and there can be no doubt but
+     that one object of such a body, is the severance of all but nominal
+     ties between the Cape, and Great Britain.
+
+     "However visionary such hopes as these must for a long series of
+     years remain, the fact of their existence, and of their being in a
+     variety of ways advanced from time to time, has a very marked
+     influence upon all classes of people in this country.
+
+     "For instance, the youth of the country are influenced to hope for
+     a time, when they shall be members of an independent State; and
+     while on the one hand they may not see any immediate prospect of a
+     change in such a direction being effected, nevertheless they lessen
+     their interest in, and their respect for, the Crown of England and
+     its attributes, and thus grow up comparatively devoid of any sound
+     patriotism, even to their native country; and, above all, without
+     any touch of that enthusiasm, which is ever engendered by high
+     national traditions.
+
+     "That some momentous changes are likely to occur in South Africa,
+     and that possibly, before very long, all are agreed. The question
+     only remains in what direction will these changes tend?--towards
+     some Foreign Continental Power, towards a Confederation with the
+     existing Dutch Republics, or in the direction of a strengthening
+     of the union with England?
+
+     "It is sometimes surmised, and this not merely by extreme men, but
+     by quiet and experienced observers of events in this country, that
+     the large population, mainly British, which has been attracted to
+     the Gold Fields of the Transvaal, is unlikely to endure much longer
+     the systematic misgovernment and suppression, to which they are
+     subjected by men of avowedly anti-English sympathies, and pledged
+     to a policy directed to check British progress by all means.
+
+     "What form the suggested revolt in the Transvaal may take is not
+     likely to be revealed, until some overt step towards its execution
+     has been taken. We would all desire that the end in view should be
+     secured by peaceful means, and that the Transvaal should become a
+     part and parcel of British territory.
+
+     "To effect a revival of loyalty to England in the Cape Colony, and
+     to influence the destinies of other States in the direction of
+     union with England, should surely be the hope and endeavour of all
+     true Englishmen, whether in this Colony, or elsewhere.
+
+     "And the end in view is not an easy one to attain in a country,
+     where the majority of Europeans consider that they, or their
+     compatriots, inflicted disgrace, and a permanent loss of influence
+     upon the Imperial Troops on the one hand, and the Imperial British
+     Government on the other.
+
+     "The application of any remedy seems to lie more with the Sovereign
+     personally, or Her Majesty's immediate advisers in England, than
+     with any Governor, and High Commissioner, or Cabinet of Cape
+     Ministers.
+
+     "For _qua_ Governor, the Queen's Representative at the Cape, is
+     necessarily checked, or controlled by the Ministry of the day, his
+     Constitutional advisers, and the presence in the Cape Parliament of
+     a dominant force of the essentially non-English, or Africander
+     party, must necessarily also have a very material influence upon
+     Ministers, who depend upon a majority of votes for the retention of
+     their office.
+
+     "In short, the problem in the Cape Colony is one, which happily
+     does not exist in either of the other great dependencies of the
+     Crown; it is altogether peculiar to South Africa, of which, after
+     all, England acquired possession by conquest, and, having acquired
+     it, has never completely won the adhesion of the Dutch inhabitants,
+     who resent such acts of Government as the abolition of slavery, the
+     introduction of the English principle of equality before the law,
+     and, above all, an unsettled vacillating policy, which last has the
+     worst possible effect upon all the nationalities, European, as
+     well as native, throughout South Africa.
+
+     "The present attitude of even British South Africa, is one, not of
+     expectancy, but of slight hope, mingled with distrust, and after
+     such conspicuous events as the dismemberment of Zululand, the
+     retrocession of the Transvaal, in addition to the ineffective
+     efforts towards confederation, he would be a bold man who, as an
+     Englishman, would dare assert either that his country protected her
+     children, or her dependent races, or that there is any settled
+     British policy in the very Continent, where vigour, firmness, and
+     consistency, combined with mere justice, seem to be absolutely
+     essential.
+
+     "South Africa has yet to be won over to England, or, in other
+     words, confidence has to be restored. The effort is surely worth
+     making, and anything like a determined effort on the part of the
+     Sovereign, and Her Majesty's immediate advisers would find a most
+     vigorous and cordial response.
+
+     "The idea of confederation seems to be quite dependent upon such
+     preliminaries, as mutual confidence, and a measure of common
+     necessity, in order to such a question being seriously entertained.
+
+     "The Colonial Conference of two years ago, seems however to have
+     paved the way for effective development in the direction of
+     confederation.
+
+     "For it must be remembered, that the somewhat complex British
+     constitution is not the creation of any one Monarch, or Parliament.
+     It has grown to its present dimensions little by little, influenced
+     always by the necessities of particular cases. The House of Peers
+     has ever been summoned by writ, and early precedents indicate, that
+     the Sovereign was not always limited to a particular class of
+     Barons, who alone could be invited to the deliberations of the
+     nation.
+
+     "Although it is not admitted, it is nevertheless the fact, that, at
+     the present time, all who are most anxiously desirous of seeing a
+     way to establish a means of drawing together, in Council, the
+     Colonies and the Mother Country, are quite disagreed, as to what is
+     the best means to this end.
+
+     "A formal confederation is desired, but all are agreed upon the
+     difficulties which, for the present, at any rate, stand in the way
+     of completing an exactly defined treaty, or definition, to
+     confederate as between the Mother Country, and the Colonies.
+
+     "Perhaps a means to this much-desired end may be discovered, by way
+     of less formal, but almost equally effective, courses of policy as
+     regards Colonial possessions.
+
+     "Every one feels the difficulty in the way of summoning Colonial
+     Representatives to either the House of Lords or the House of
+     Commons, for, while special provision would be required to increase
+     the numbers of the House of Commons, there are apparent and real
+     obstacles in the way of inviting Colonial Representatives to sit in
+     the House of Lords, either as ordinary, or as _Life_ Peers.
+
+     "It does not seem too much to hope that, before long, the Crown,
+     may desire to see assembled in London, during some period of the
+     annual session of the Imperial Parliament a Council of Colonial
+     Delegates, meeting in a place to be assigned to them, who will have
+     no voice in other than Colonial Policy, just as now, the House of
+     Lords has no voice in the originating of Money Bills, who will be
+     free to discuss any measure affecting Colonial Policy in general,
+     or the affairs of any Colony, in particular, who will be entitled
+     to forward their conclusions, requests, or opinions to Her
+     Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, and who
+     will constitute a most effective means for ascertaining the current
+     of opinion in any particular Colony for the time being.
+
+     "The Houses of Convocation might be referred to as an example of an
+     extra Parliamentary Body of recognised position in the
+     deliberations of the State.
+
+     "And, to revert to South Africa, the sympathies, and probably loyal
+     adhesion of all the intelligent classes of every nationality, would
+     be elicited by nothing more than by the express personal interest
+     of the Sovereign, and Her family in the Cape Colony. The occasion
+     of the visit of Prince Alfred, when a mere child, elicited
+     unbounded demonstrations of enthusiastic loyalty to the Crown, and
+     those from Dutch and English alike. The name 'Alfred,' in honour
+     of His Royal Highness, is to be everywhere met with in connection
+     with all sorts of public bodies, Volunteer Corps, and other
+     Institutions.
+
+     "Personal influence goes for more than all the defined policies of
+     successive administrations, or excellent theories of Government. A
+     Prince is of more weight than the best of official Governors, and
+     it is not likely that in medieval ages, or even at later periods,
+     such an appanage of the Crown, as we desire South Africa to become,
+     would be unvisited by either the Sovereign, or someone of the
+     Sovereign's family. The visit of their Royal Highnesses Prince
+     Albert Victor, and Prince George of Wales was limited to a brief
+     sojourn at Cape Town, and did not extend to the Colony in general.
+
+     "The necessity for the employment, in the interests of the Empire,
+     to use the phrase most practical,--uncouth, however, it may
+     seem,--of our Royal Princes appears to be a very decided and
+     certain means to the end we have in view, namely, the binding
+     together, by means of sympathetic enthusiasm, the Colonies to the
+     Mother Country, but most particularly the creating of a healthy
+     common accord between South Africa and Great Britain.
+
+     "Let any Colony or Dependency feel assured that it is regarded as
+     worthy of attention by those nearest to the Crown, and any sense of
+     isolation, any suspicion that the people, or their country are
+     regarded with any measure of contemptuous indifference must
+     forthwith vanish. Sympathy, encouragement, personal contact, seem
+     to be essential elements to the solution of what is admittedly a
+     problem."
+
+I regard this letter of my well informed correspondent as a most
+interesting and truthful expression of wide-spread opinion, among the
+intelligent classes of Her Majesty's loyal subjects in South Africa.
+
+I do not believe the South African political problem to be insoluble.
+Two things are required to solve it satisfactorily. For the present,--I
+quote the eloquent words of a distinguished politician with whose wise
+and noble sentiments I cordially agree--"what we ought to do in a case
+of this kind is to send out a statesman of the first order of talent,
+patience, and truthfulness, irrespective of politics or prejudice. For
+it is an Imperial problem of the highest importance; and the powers of
+true patriotism and ambition should be amply gratified in dealing with
+it."
+
+And for the future, let me add my own earnest conviction, that what is
+wanted is Imperial Federation, as the goal to be ultimately reached, to
+render South Africa politically satisfied and content.
+
+Imperial Federation means a constitutional system, under which she would
+be no longer misruled and misunderstood, by a Government, in which she
+has no share, in which she places no confidence, and by whom her wants
+and wishes are often ignored. It is not, as is frequently untruly
+asserted by writers, and speakers, who have neither studied,
+comprehended, nor understood its theory and intention, its end and aim,
+that it means the subjugation of the independence of the Colonies to the
+control of the Mother Country.
+
+As one of its most earnest advocates, I emphatically protest against all
+such erroneous interpretations, as a libel on the principle put forward,
+as a plan for the National Government. On the contrary, the project of
+Imperial Federation, without any _arriere pensee_, clearly and
+distinctly involves the condition, that the Colonies themselves are to
+take their adequate part, and share with the Mother Country in its
+future concrete constitution. In the brief, but expressive phrase, I
+have already publicly adopted, Imperial Federation means, "the
+Government of the Empire by the Empire." In Imperial Federation,
+therefore, South Africa would be fairly and influentially represented,
+along with the other Colonies of Great Britain. In union with them she
+would take her part in guiding the policy, and directing the destinies
+of the whole British Empire.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+APPENDIX I.
+
+
+The following discussion took place on the paper read by Sir Frederick
+Young, on South Africa, at the opening meeting of the Session of the
+Royal Colonial Institute, on November 12th, at which the Marquis of Lome
+presided:--
+
+     PROFESSOR H.G. SEELEY: In common with you all, I have listened with
+     great pleasure to this interesting and wide-reaching address. I
+     have not myself been so far afield. My observations were limited to
+     Cape Colony; and the things which I saw in that Colony were
+     necessarily, to a large extent, different from those recorded by
+     Sir Frederick Young. On landing at Cape Town I naturally turned to
+     what the people of South Africa were doing for themselves, and
+     confess I was amazed when I saw the great docks, by means of which
+     the commerce of South Africa is being encouraged, and by which it
+     will hereafter be developed. I was impressed, too, with the
+     educational institutions, the great Public Library, worthy of any
+     town, the South African Museum, the South African College, and the
+     various efforts made to bring the newest and best knowledge home to
+     the people. But perhaps in Cape Town, the thing which impressed me
+     as most curious was the new dock, in process of construction by
+     excavating stone for the breakwater and other purposes. This work
+     was carried on by coloured convict labour. The convicts thus become
+     trained in useful manual work, as well as in habits of obedience,
+     and when they are discharged, are not only better men, but people
+     in whose work employers of labour have confidence. I learned that
+     the great public mountain roads in Cape Colony have thus been
+     constructed by convict labour, at a comparatively small cost, while
+     the convict acquires skill and useful training. Going up country,
+     my attention, among other matters, was turned to the distribution
+     of mineral wealth and difficulties of water supply, for, as Sir
+     Frederick Young has remarked, the water supply is one of the great
+     problems which all persons have to consider in South Africa. The
+     season during which rain falls is short, and the rain drains
+     rapidly down comparatively steep inclined surfaces, so that science
+     of many kinds has to be enlisted to conserve the water, and turn
+     the supply to account. I found the rocks of much of the country
+     have been curiously compressed and hardened and thrown into
+     parallel irregular folds, and that these rocks were afterwards worn
+     down by the action of water, at a time when the land was still
+     beneath the ocean, with the result that many basin-shaped
+     depressions are preserved and exposed, each of which holds a
+     certain amount of water. Just as we never dream of putting down a
+     well in this country without knowing the positions of the
+     water-bearing strata, so it is hopeless to bore profitably for
+     water in the Colony till the districts are defined over which the
+     water-bearing basins are spread. Nothing arrests the escape of
+     water in its course through the rocks more efficiently than
+     intrusive sheets of igneous rock which rise to the surface, but
+     until the distribution of these dykes is systematically recorded it
+     will not be possible to open out all the water which is preserved
+     underground. There is no doubt that by utilising geological facts
+     of this nature, a better water supply may be obtained, which will
+     enable more land to be brought under cultivation, and larger crops
+     to be raised. I may say that the Colonial Government is fully aware
+     of the importance of following out such lines of work, and steps
+     are being taken to give effect to such exploration. Vegetation,
+     however, by its radiating power, must always be one of the chief
+     aids to improved water supply. In the matter of mineral wealth,
+     Cape Colony is not so rich as some adjacent lands. It contains
+     coal, but the individual beds of coal are thin, and owing to this
+     thinness the coal necessarily alternates with shale, which is more
+     conspicuous than in the coal fields of Britain. I remember that
+     Professor Sedgwick, my old master in geology, told me that in his
+     youth seams of coal only some four to six inches thick were worked
+     on the sides of hills in Yorkshire, and that the coal was carried
+     on horseback over the country to supply the wants of the mountain
+     population. Cape Colony is in a far better state than that. In the
+     Eastern Province the beds of coal are frequently a foot or two or
+     more in thickness. They crop out on the surface with a slight dip
+     near to the railway, and although only worked at present in a few
+     pits (as at Cyphergat, Fairview, Molteno--I did not visit the
+     Indwe)--the coal-bearing rocks certainly extend over a much wider
+     area of country than that which has been explored. One of the happy
+     results at which I arrived in my short visit to this district was
+     to find that there are certain extinct forms of reptilian life
+     associated with these coal beds, by means of which the geological
+     horizon upon which the coal occurs may be traced through the
+     country; so that there is a prospect of this mineral being followed
+     along its outcrop in the Eastern Province with comparative ease by
+     this means. It is desirable on all accounts that coal should be
+     burned rather than timber, since the destruction of wood is harmful
+     to the supply of water. With regard to the gold of Cape Colony, I
+     have not the requisite knowledge to speak with the same confidence.
+     The quantity in any district is probably small: the amount is great
+     in the aggregate, but very widely diffused. Gold appears to be
+     present in small amounts in almost all the volcanic rocks, so that
+     as those rocks decay and new mineral substances are formed out of
+     the decomposed products, the gold which they contained is often
+     preserved and concentrated in thin and narrow veins of zeolitic
+     minerals, which extend over the surface of these volcanic rocks. To
+     what extent these zeolites may be hereafter worked with profit it
+     is impossible at present to say, for much may depend upon water
+     supply, by means of which the ore would be crushed and washed, and
+     much on the varying quantities of gold present in samples from
+     different localities. On the whole, the utilisation of science in
+     the service of man, especially in relation to metals, coal, and
+     water supply, if systematically carried out, will, I believe, be an
+     element of future prosperity to Cape Colony, and enable the Colony
+     to minister to the welfare of adjacent lands.
+
+     Mr. J.X. MERRIMAN: I am sure South Africans are very grateful
+     indeed to the amiable and kindly critic in the person of Sir
+     Frederick Young. It is no new thing to Colonists to owe him a debt.
+     All those present will acknowledge the great things he has done for
+     the Colonies in connection with the Royal Colonial Institute. Sir
+     Frederick Young is a man who has been content to look after small
+     things, and the result is this Institute has been worked up by the
+     individual efforts of Colonists and others to its present
+     flourishing condition. I hope the Institute will long flourish,
+     and never be absorbed by anything under more magnificent
+     auspices--in other words, that you will "paddle your own canoe." It
+     is good sometimes to have a plain statement from a plain man. South
+     Africa suffers under a plague of experts who, after spending a few
+     weeks there, tell us exactly what we ought to do; and we don't like
+     it. I wish I could speak to you as a sort of amiable critic, but I
+     have the misfortune to belong to that much-despised class the local
+     politician, and I notice that, when anybody says anything about the
+     Colonies in England, all unite in kicking the local politician. In
+     order not to sail under false colours, I state frankly that I
+     belong to that class. Of course, South Africa is creating a deal of
+     interest at the present time. People who come to fortunes usually
+     do excite a great deal of interest among relations who may in times
+     gone by have given them the cold shoulder. There can be no doubt as
+     to the material prosperity of South Africa at the present time, and
+     still less doubt as to the future. The gold fields of Witwatersrand
+     are unique in the world. This is not my own statement, but the
+     statement of eminent mining engineers from America. For thirty
+     miles and more you have a continuous stretch of reef, which gives
+     throughout a uniform yield per ton, and which has been proved to
+     the depth of some hundred feet, and may--there is every reason to
+     believe--go to unknown depths. The reefs are now being worked in
+     the most economical manner. When proper appliances for mining are
+     used, and when we get the stock-jobbers off our backs, I believe a
+     career of prosperity will open of which few people dream. From
+     another point of view, to those who love the country and make their
+     home there, there cannot but be a seamy side to the picture. Great
+     wealth brings other things in its train. It has brought into South
+     Africa a great spirit of gambling. People neglect the honest
+     industries of the country: they leave their farm work, and rush off
+     to make fortunes in a minute. Everybody--from the king to the
+     beggar--is gambling in gold shares. Everybody neglects his
+     business, and talks about nothing else. I ask whether this is a
+     wholesome state of society? Is it not a state of society to which
+     we may look with some degree of apprehension? I believe myself that
+     things will work round, but, undoubtedly, the state of affairs is
+     serious. After all, there is something which goes to build up a
+     country besides material wealth, and I am not sure that gambling in
+     gold shares is exactly the thing which is wanted. Of course, there
+     have been other countries where these vast increases of material
+     wealth have occurred--California and Australia--but there the
+     conditions were different. They were new countries, which attracted
+     large numbers of white men, and, when they found the gold fields
+     did not pay, they made homes for themselves on the land.
+     Unfortunately, that state of affairs does not exist at the present
+     time in South Africa, and that brings us face to face with the
+     great problem on which Sir Frederick Young has touched--the great
+     problem which we have always before us--viz., how two races utterly
+     alien to each other, the black and the white, are to live and
+     increase side by side. South Africa is the only country in the
+     world where that problem exists, excepting the Southern States of
+     North America. This is a great question, on which the future of
+     South Africa depends. Unfortunately, the white men do not work in a
+     country where the black race flourishes. If the white man does not
+     become a "boss," he sinks to the level of a mean white man. The
+     difficulty is to get a state of society in which the white race
+     shall flourish side by side with the black; and when people talk
+     about the "local politicians," the "average Cape politician," and
+     the like, they should remember we have to deal with this enormous
+     problem--that we are anxious to do justice to the "black," and at
+     the same time we are naturally anxious to see the European
+     population flourish. I believe the gold fields will attract a
+     large European population. The wages are enormous. There are 20,000
+     black men, without a stitch upon them, earning as much as eighteen
+     shillings a week a-piece, and getting as much food as they can eat,
+     in the mines of Johannesburg. People talk about the treatment of
+     the blacks. Nobody dares to treat them badly, because they would
+     run away. There is a competition for them, and the black man has an
+     uncommonly rosy time of it. The white men naturally won't work
+     under the same conditions as the blacks. I saw a letter from an
+     operative cautioning his fellow artisans against going out. He
+     says, "We get thirty shillings a day, but it is a dreadful place to
+     live in." I ask the operatives in England to mistrust that
+     statement. ("What is the cost of living?") You can live at the club
+     very well indeed for L10 a month--the club, mind you, where the
+     aristocracy live. It is idle to tell me the honest artisan cannot
+     live. In addition to the black and white population, there is
+     another problem, and that is, the influx of Arabs, who creep down
+     the East Coast through the door of Natal. They are gradually
+     ousting the English retail trader. You may go to up-country towns,
+     and in whole streets you will see these yellow fellows, sitting
+     there in their muslin dresses, where formerly there were English
+     traders. In places where we want to cultivate the English
+     population, that is a very serious thing. Our yellow friends come
+     under the garb of British subjects from Bombay, and are making
+     nests in the Transvaal and elsewhere by ousting the English retail
+     trader. Sir Frederick Young has alluded to State colonisation. I am
+     sorry to differ from so amiable a critic of our ways, but, as one
+     who has had a little experience, I can tell him that you may send
+     Colonists out, but you cannot as easily make them stay there. If
+     they make their fortunes, they come home to England to spend them.
+     If they are poor, and bad times come, the black man crowds them
+     out, and off they go to Australia. You can depend on a German
+     peasant settling, but bring an Englishman or a Scotchman, and he
+     wants to better himself. In that he is quite right, but he does not
+     see his way on a small plot of ground, and off he goes down a mine,
+     or something of that sort. There are great difficulties in the way
+     of State-aided emigration. We do not want the riff-raff; we don't
+     want the "surplus population." It is one of the greatest
+     difficulties to get decent, steady Englishmen to settle on the
+     land. It is the people who settle on the land who make a country,
+     and if Sir Frederick Young can give us a receipt for making English
+     people settle there he will confer one of the greatest possible
+     benefits on South Africa. Sir Frederick Young departed from the
+     usual custom on such occasions by touching on politics. I am glad
+     he did, because more interest is given to the discussion, and there
+     is nothing like good, healthy controversy. Sir Frederick Young is
+     greatly concerned that there should be a settled policy for South
+     Africa. All I can say is, in Heaven's name, don't listen to a syren
+     voice of that kind. So surely as you have a settled policy--some
+     great and grand scheme--so surely will follow disaster and
+     disgrace. The people of South Africa may be very stupid, but they
+     are very much like other people--determined to make their policy
+     themselves, and the policy of South Africa is not going to be
+     framed in Downing Street. I cannot help thinking Sir Frederick
+     Young did injustice to some of my friends who have been at the head
+     of affairs. "The mournful mismanagement of South African affairs,"
+     he says, "during the last twenty-five years, and most especially
+     during the last decade, has been truly lamentable, and cannot fail
+     to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton
+     and true-hearted patriot." But have affairs been mismanaged for the
+     last twenty-five years? The revenue twenty-five years ago was
+     L500,000. It is now nearly L4,000,000. For twenty-five years, under
+     the beneficent rule of Downing Street, we had not a mile of
+     railway. Now we have 2,000 miles. Twenty-five years ago there was
+     no national feeling at all. Now there is a strong South African
+     feeling, which is destined to grow and build up a South African
+     policy. As to the talk about a settled and firm policy, Sir Philip
+     Wodehouse was the last Governor who had a grand scheme from Downing
+     Street. A more honest, conscientious, and able man did not exist;
+     but his policy was a failure. Then came my friend Sir Henry Barkly.
+     His policy was distinctly opposite. It was a true policy for South
+     Africa. It was a policy of _laissez-faire_. The result was, things
+     went on as merrily as a marriage bell, Dutch and English drew
+     together, the natives were quiet, South Africa was prosperous, and
+     everything went on as happily as possible till Mr. Froude and Lord
+     Carnarvon hit on the grand scheme of uniting South Africa. From
+     that day our misfortunes began. One of the most able, courteous,
+     and high-minded gentlemen in the British service--Sir Bartle
+     Frere--was sent to carry out this firm policy. What was the result?
+     Failure. I will say nothing more about it. Then Sir Hercules
+     Robinson reverted to the _laissez-faire_ policy. South Africa was
+     under a shade--nobody would look at us. But now we are gradually
+     righting ourselves, and getting into a prosperous condition. Now
+     are being raised again the cries for a grand policy. I caution you
+     against them. Let us manage our own affairs. _Laissez faire,
+     laissez aller_--that is our policy for South Africa. There are no
+     nostrums required. The one thing required is the gradual bringing
+     of the Dutch and English together. There are no two races more
+     fitted to unite. You know how like they are to Englishmen. The Boer
+     is as like the English farmer as possible. There are no people more
+     fond of manly sports than the Dutch; they enter into them
+     heartily, and in the cricket and football fields they are among the
+     best players. They are as fond of riding and shooting as Englishmen
+     are. In fact, the Dutch and the English are as like as Heaven can
+     make them, and the only thing that keeps them apart is man's
+     prejudice. The one thing to do is to bring them together. How can
+     you help that end? Not by girding at them, and writing against Boer
+     ways, but by recognising the fact that they have been pioneers in
+     South Africa, and that they are the only people who will settle on
+     the land. I see there is a great agitation about Swaziland, which
+     is entirely surrounded by the Transvaal Republic. ("No.") Well,
+     except as to Tongaland, and I am not going to say anything about
+     that. The cry is got up, "Don't hand it over to the Boers." In
+     whose interest is that cry got up? It is in the interest of a few
+     speculators, and not in the interest of the capitalists, who have
+     L108,000,000 invested in the Transvaal, and yet are not afraid to
+     trust the Boers with Swaziland. This girding at the Dutch is
+     resented, and does incalculable harm. People at home have very
+     little idea how much influence public opinion in England has in
+     South Africa. Sir Frederick Young has alluded to President Kruger,
+     who won't put down prize fights because he might be thought to be
+     oppressing the Englishman! All I ask is, don't let your talk about
+     union with the Dutch be mere lip service. Trust them; work hand in
+     hand with them. Unless you do you will make little progress in
+     South Africa. By that I mean political progress. The material
+     progress of South Africa is now secured; therefore my advice
+     is--cultivate the Dutch, because, unless they are our friends, we
+     shall be a divided people, and our black and yellow brethren will
+     get the best of us. Our true policy is, _Laissez faire, laissez
+     aller_.
+
+     Sir G. BADEN-POWELL, K.C.M.G., M.P.: My friend, Mr. Merriman, has
+     made a speech of the utmost value to South Africa, and it is a
+     very fitting, I will not say reply, but comment, on the address to
+     which we have listened with such pleasure; but Mr. Merriman, with
+     his strong arguments and apt illustrations, came at the end to the
+     conclusion at which Sir Frederick Young had arrived. I have not
+     much to add, but I think we have heard from Sir Frederick Young a
+     view of South African affairs on the political side which, I may
+     tell you frankly, differs diametrically from my own. I have heard
+     from Mr. Merriman a view of affairs in which I cordially concur,
+     but from neither have I heard of that third aspect which, I think,
+     is necessary to complete the view. Sir Frederick Young has told us
+     that for twenty-five years, certainly during the last ten years,
+     South Africa has been mismanaged. I must confess I was sorry to
+     hear the strong language he used, because one cannot but remember
+     that for the greater part of the last twenty years most of the
+     affairs of South Africa have been in the hands of free
+     self-governing communities. Cape Colony has been under Responsible
+     Government since 1873, and the Free State and the Transvaal have
+     always been self-governing. I agree with Mr. Merriman that for the
+     last twenty-five years affairs in South Africa have progressed,
+     with one signal and fatal exception, and that was the policy under
+     which we took over and then gave back the Transvaal. Omitting that,
+     I think we have but little to be sorry for in the history of South
+     Africa. There have been troubles, but I, for one, think that all
+     difficulties, would have been avoided if the phrase "Imperial aid"
+     had been substituted for that of "Imperial interference" in the
+     affairs of South Africa. It is the aid which has been given by the
+     Mother Country which has resulted in developing the material
+     resources, and, above all, in establishing the security from native
+     attack of various European States in South Africa. Sir Frederick
+     Young spoke of the attitude towards the Imperial Government. I
+     could wish he had been in Cape Town on the day Sir Charles Warren
+     landed, and seen the ovation he received from all classes. Let me
+     add this--that the Bechuanaland expedition, which was led by Sir
+     Charles Warren, and in which I had the good fortune to take part,
+     cost the Mother Country perhaps L1,500,000, but in the discussions
+     in Parliament or in the press as to the future of Bechuanaland, the
+     fact is seldom mentioned that Bechuanaland was acquired for the
+     Empire at the cost of the British taxpayer. Let me remind you of
+     another fact, which the Cape Colonist well knows--that when the
+     Imperial Government wished, from wise motives of economy, to extend
+     the Cape system of railways to Kimberley, at a time when the Cape
+     Ministers were not prepared to carry out the extension, the British
+     Parliament advanced a loan of L400,000, at a low rate of interest,
+     for that object. Another instance I could quote, in connection with
+     the history of that interesting native territory--Basutoland. You
+     remember how that country was handed over to the Cape Colonists,
+     and that for various reasons the management of the Basutos got
+     beyond their power, the result being that the Imperial Government
+     went to the aid of the Cape Colony and took back Basutoland. I
+     mention these cases because they illustrate an aspect of affairs
+     which is, I think, apt to be neglected. We at home--and certainly
+     those who have enjoyed the kind hospitality of their brethren in
+     South Africa--wish to do all we can to aid our fellow-countrymen in
+     that part of the globe. We do not wish to interfere, and I should
+     like to see this put forward as the grand and final policy of South
+     Africa--that we are ready to aid that portion of the Empire, but
+     set our faces against interference. In conclusion, I will add that
+     I am sure all of us congratulate Sir Frederick Young on having so
+     successfully accomplished his arduous journey, returning to us, as
+     he does, in better health than when he left. If you wish to renew
+     your youth, and grow younger instead of older, follow his
+     example--make a trip through South Africa, sleeping in the open
+     veldt.
+
+     Dr. SYMES THOMPSON: Another year's experience has confirmed and
+     strengthened my conclusions as to the remarkable salubrity of the
+     South African climate in cases of chest disease and of nerve wear,
+     which I laid before the Royal Colonial Institute in November last.
+     While regarding the neighbourhood of Cape Town and Grahamstown as
+     beneficial for a short sojourn, among the upland stations I would
+     call attention to Middelburg and Tarkestad. Hotel accommodation and
+     adequate comfort for invalids, as regards food, quarters,
+     attention, occupation, and amusement, are still most deficient.
+     During the recent drought the dust storms proved very trying to the
+     eyes and to the bronchial membranes at Kimberley, and at
+     Johannesburg the dangers were great. I rejoice to learn that Sir
+     Frederick Young has found his winter trip so health-giving, and
+     believe that a similar expedition might prove of immense value to
+     many Englishmen who are overwrought in body or in mind.
+
+     The CHAIRMAN (the Right Hon. the Marquis of Lorne, K.T., G.C.M.G.):
+     I propose a hearty vote of thanks to Sir Frederick Young for his
+     kindness in reading the Paper. I was extremely interested myself,
+     as I think you all were. In his political observations, and in
+     speaking of a firm policy, I think that, after all, what the reader
+     of the Paper meant was firmness in allowing each nationality to
+     develop itself as it best might, with aid from home. I think that
+     is the sense of his observations, and I am sure we are obliged to
+     him, not only for speaking of more personal matters, but also for
+     telling us the actual impressions he derived from the journey. I
+     entirely agree with Mr. Merriman--and I believe Sir Frederick Young
+     does--that, finding ourselves in South Africa with the Dutch, we
+     must work with them and through them. I hope the Dutch will allow
+     themselves to be helped in one matter which Sir Frederick Young
+     impressed on President Kruger--apparently not with great
+     results--viz., in the matter of railways, and that they will allow
+     railways to pierce the Transvaal. I am sure he is a man of too much
+     intelligence very much to object to railways. That policy would be
+     too much like that of the Chinese. I remember, when I was at the
+     head of a society in London, asking the representative of China to
+     come and listen to a paper in regard to railways through Siam. He
+     said solemnly--"Chinese not like railways." I said this railway
+     would not go through the Imperial dominions--that it would only be
+     at a respectful distance. Again my remarks were interpreted to him,
+     and again, after a long pause, he solemnly replied--"Chinese don't
+     like railways near frontier." I am sure President Kruger will not
+     fritter chances away in that manner, and that he will allow us to
+     help him.
+
+     SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.: I feel extremely flattered by the
+     compliment which our noble Chairman has been good enough to pay me.
+     It was really most gratifying to me to be able to take the
+     interesting and instructive tour from which I have recently
+     returned, and the only difficulty and hesitation I felt as to
+     giving an account of what I saw was that I saw so much that I did
+     not know how I could crowd a tithe of it in the reasonable
+     dimensions of a paper. I was a little in dread, I confess, when so
+     astute and able a politician as Mr. Merriman rose to make his
+     criticisms; but I wish him to understand, as well as you, that the
+     view I put forward--perhaps I did not explain myself as clearly as
+     I ought to have done--was that advocated by Mr. Merriman himself,
+     namely, that South Africa should be allowed to frame her own
+     policy. That is the sum and substance of what I wished to say on
+     that point. As the noble Marquis has been so kind as to act as my
+     interpreter, I need not take up more of your time by enlarging on
+     this question. I have now the greatest possible pleasure in asking
+     you to join with me in thanking the noble Marquis for having, as
+     one of our Vice-Presidents, been so kind as to preside on this
+     occasion.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+APPENDIX II.
+
+IMPERIAL FEDERATION.
+
+
+     An address on the above interesting subject was delivered by Sir
+     Frederick Young, K.C.M.G., in the Y.M.C. Association Hall, on
+     Monday, when the room was filled to its utmost capacity. The chair
+     was taken by the President of the Association, Mr. E.J. Earp, who,
+     in introducing the lecturer to the audience, said he was a
+     gentleman who was well and favourably known to many colonists, who
+     had received great attention and kindness from him during their
+     visits to the Old Country. Sir Frederick Young had very kindly
+     responded to the invitation of the committee to lecture this
+     evening, and though the subject of Imperial Federation was of a
+     somewhat political nature, still it was not of such a character as
+     to preclude its being spoken about within the walls of the
+     association. The subject of the lecture was one worthy of all
+     attention, which had recently been occupying the attention of
+     eminent statesmen of various political opinions. This was an age of
+     specialists, and he thought that Sir Frederick Young might be well
+     considered as a specialist on the subject upon which he was now
+     about to address them. He had for many years been connected with
+     the Royal Colonial Institute, and his services had received
+     recognition at the hands of his Sovereign.
+
+     Sir Frederick Young, who was most warmly received, said in he first
+     place he must tender his hearty thanks to the Chairman for the very
+     kind manner in which he had introduced him. The attention of the
+     audience this evening would be directed to the desirability of
+     promoting the unity of the British Empire. Before commencing his
+     address, he wished to emphasize what the Chairman had already
+     expressed with regard to the rules of the association on political
+     subjects. In connection with that, he would say that the subject he
+     was about to speak upon did not touch upon party politics in any
+     way, as it was a National question, and might be excepted from
+     their rigid rule. The subject of Imperial Federation was, to his
+     mind, of so vast and vital a character, and of such importance to
+     the whole nation collectively, that it impressed him with the
+     responsibility he incurred in speaking upon it, and the feeling he
+     had of being unable to do full justice to it. He spoke with some
+     confidence on the subject, because he claimed to be one of the
+     pioneers of the idea of Imperial Federation, which meant "the
+     government of the Empire by the Empire." He wished to take his
+     hearers back to the origin of English parliaments, when the first
+     idea of representation occurred to our early kings, and when the
+     scattered portions of England were at last drawn into one focus of
+     representation by Edward III., and gradually that kind of
+     representation succeeded in effecting the Union of England and
+     Scotland, and subsequently Ireland, things remaining in that form
+     until the present day. Latterly, our Colonial Empire had grown up
+     to wonderful and vast dimensions, but as far as the principle of
+     representation was concerned there had been no great change, though
+     it was perfectly true that during the past few years a certain
+     number of the Colonies had obtained what was called
+     self-government, or what he called the shadow of English government
+     on the parliamentary system, as retained in its original principle
+     and plan up to our own times. The Imperial policy of the British
+     Empire was entirely conducted at Home, and Imperial Federation
+     meant that this system should be changed, and that those who were
+     living outside the borders of the British Isles should have their
+     true participation in the government of the Empire. This led him to
+     a point on which there was very much misunderstanding on the part
+     of those who had heard the subject of Imperial Federation
+     mentioned, and who thought there must be some idea of those who
+     advocated it at Home getting some advantage over their colonial
+     brethren, and draw them into a net, by which they would have to
+     part with their rights of local self-government. He utterly denied
+     that there were any such intentions--on the contrary, this was an
+     invitation to them, a cry from the Old Country, asking them to come
+     and assist in governing the Empire. This could only be effected by
+     Imperial Federation, which would mean the termination of what was
+     called the rule of Downing Street, which would be superseded by
+     something far different, and, in his opinion, be far more
+     acceptable to the colonists themselves. They would not have to
+     suffer, as they had in the past, in many ways, from ignorance,
+     prejudice, and narrow views, but they would have an opportunity of
+     taking part in the policy of the Empire, particularly in that which
+     affected themselves. In consequence of the agitation at Home during
+     the past few years a successful attempt had been made to establish
+     what was called the Imperial Federation League, of which he was an
+     active member, and which took no part in party politics, and was at
+     the present moment presided over by Lord Rosebery, with the Hon. E.
+     Stanhope, the present Minister of War, as Vice-President, who, so
+     far as party politics were concerned, were on totally different
+     sides. That would prove that in England they did not regard this
+     great question as one of party politics. One of the most important
+     results in connection with that League had been the celebrated
+     Colonial Conference, which the League had been able to induce the
+     Government to summon two years ago at Westminster. They all knew
+     what a remarkable gathering that was, which was presided over by
+     Lord Knutsford (then Sir Henry Holland), the summons being
+     responded to by the self-governing Colonies of the Empire sending
+     their foremost men to represent their interests. From South Africa
+     were sent such men as Sir Thomas Upington, Sir John Robinson, and
+     Mr. Hofmeyr, and he confessed that, when he had the honour of being
+     at the first meeting of the Conference, and seeing these men
+     gathered in the Foreign Office, and having present the Prime
+     Minister, Lord Salisbury, if his dream of Imperial Federation was
+     to be anything more than a dream, he felt that these were the first
+     symptoms of its realization. It was the first time in history that
+     the Colonies of Great Britain had come to the Mother Country to
+     consult on great National questions. He had read nearly the whole
+     of the large Blue Book which contained the reports of the
+     Conference, and all he could say was that he challenged any
+     assembly of public men to meet together and show more ability and
+     statesmanlike thought in the discussion of the questions submitted
+     to them than was shown by that Conference during its short reign.
+     He was delighted with the noble words of Lord Salisbury, when he
+     expressed his satisfaction, and said he hoped this would be only
+     the first of many similar Conferences, but Lord Salisbury, like
+     other public men, sometimes saw occasion to change his views,
+     because not long ago he said, on a public occasion, that all he
+     knew about Federation was, that it was a word spelt with ten
+     letters, which was somewhat of a wet blanket to some of those who
+     had reckoned upon Lord Salisbury as an ardent supporter. More
+     recently he said, in reply to a question put to him at a public
+     meeting at the East End of London, that geographical considerations
+     would prevent the realization of such a scheme; but his allusions
+     to geographical difficulties vanished before modern science. Was it
+     not in their cognizance that in South Africa, through the medium of
+     the telegraph, they were able to know what was taking place in
+     England within twenty-four hours? Geographical considerations,
+     indeed! that might have been all very well some years ago, when it
+     took three or four months to reach the Cape, but now it took only
+     two or three weeks, and that time would even be probably reduced as
+     time wore on. Such being the case, geographical considerations had
+     nothing whatever to do with the matter. He had no desire to speak
+     unfairly of the gentleman who occupied the position of Prime
+     Minister of the Empire, but he felt sure the time would come when
+     Lord Salisbury would think that Imperial Federation was something
+     more than a word of ten letters; and that his geographical
+     considerations would vanish also, as having no reason in them. In
+     contrast to Lord Salisbury, he would read a short extract from a
+     speech, made only a few months ago at Leeds by Lord Rosebery, when
+     he said: "For my part, if you will forgive me this little bit of
+     egotism, I can say from the bottom of my heart that it is the
+     dominant passion of my public life. Ever since I traversed those
+     great regions which own the sway of the British Crown outside these
+     islands, I have felt that there was a cause, which merited all the
+     enthusiasm and energy that man could give to it. It is a cause for
+     which any one might be content to live; it is a cause for which, if
+     needs be, any one might be content to die." Lord Rosebery was at
+     this moment the President of the Imperial Federation League, and
+     only recently he addressed a letter, on behalf of the League, to
+     Lord Salisbury, asking that the Government would summon another
+     Conference like the one which took place with such wonderful
+     results two years ago, and which Lord Salisbury had said he hoped
+     would be the first of many more. The answer he gave, however, was
+     something to the effect that he did not think it desirable that the
+     Government should move in the matter, but that the Colonies should
+     take the initiative. With all humility he would ask how anything of
+     this kind could be moved, except by some motor? There must be
+     something to move the colonists, and who could do that so well as
+     Her Majesty's Government, by inviting, in a courteous and
+     sympathetic spirit, the Colonies to come again and consult on
+     Imperial subjects. He would now touch upon some of the errors
+     prevalent on this great question of Imperial Federation. In some of
+     the Colonies, New Zealand in particular, something had been said
+     that in course of time independence must be the inevitable result.
+     But he asked why should this be the case? He would also like to say
+     something about what were Imperial questions? Some of the subjects
+     which would be dealt with by the Imperial Federated Parliament
+     would be those of National defence, peace and war, and all subjects
+     in which national interests are concerned. As he had attempted to
+     explain, it would be a federation in which the Colonies would be
+     completely and fairly represented. The whole subject resolved
+     itself into this: Representation. One hundred years ago, one of our
+     distinguished statesmen in England, Charles James Fox, said that
+     "representation was the sovereign remedy for all evils," and that
+     was what was contended for by Imperial Federation. He would now
+     venture to make some allusion to one of the most distinguished
+     statesmen in South Africa, who attended the Conference in
+     London--he alluded to Mr. Hofmeyr--who made a most remarkable
+     speech. He was sorry it was too long to read, but he would select a
+     portion of that very statesmanlike address. Referring to the fourth
+     and eighth subjects proposed for discussion--viz., the feasibility
+     of promoting a closer union between the various parts of the
+     British Empire by means of an Imperial tariff of Customs, to be
+     levied independently of the duties payable under existing tariffs
+     on goods entering the British Empire from abroad, the revenue
+     derived from such tariffs to be devoted to the general defence of
+     the Empire--he said: "I have taken this matter in hand with two
+     objects, to promote the union of the Empire, and at the same time
+     to obtain revenue for general defence. It would establish a
+     connecting link between the Colonies mutually, as well as between
+     the Colonies, and the Empire also, such as is not at present in
+     existence, and which might fuller develop, by-and-by, into a most
+     powerful bond of union." Again, speaking of how this was to be
+     effected, he said: "A body would be required with legislative, and,
+     to some extent, administrative powers; in other words, you would
+     have a limited fiscal Parliament by the side of the British
+     Parliament and the various Colonial Parliaments. This small body,
+     which would have to be created, would perhaps be the germ of an
+     Imperial Federation afterwards." He thought those were most
+     remarkable, and striking words. If people would think the subject
+     out in a calm judicial, and fair spirit, they would see in it the
+     fulfilment of what would not only promote the best interests of the
+     British Empire, but would also be the handmaiden of civilization to
+     others as well, because in it there was no idea of aggrandisement.
+     He had recently made a most remarkable tour through this
+     interesting country, and since he landed in Cape Town, on the 24th
+     May, had seen a great deal of it. He had visited Kimberley, and
+     gone down in a bucket to see one of the diamond mines; he had
+     travelled to Vryburg, and across the treeless desert in the
+     south-western portion of the Transvaal to Klerksdorp; thence on to
+     Johannesburg and down the gold mines, and further on to Pretoria,
+     where he had an interview with President Kruger, and attended
+     meetings of the Volksraad. He had been 150 miles north of Pretoria,
+     and dwelt for a fortnight in the open veldt, without going near a
+     house, and had seen the Kafirs in their kraals. He had crossed the
+     Transvaal, through Heidelburg and Newcastle, in Natal, down to
+     Durban, he had visited Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown, and had now
+     returned to Cape Town. What he had seen of this great country had
+     astonished him, and he thought it had a vast future before it; but
+     it required to be governed in the most enlightened and satisfactory
+     manner, and he appealed to both races--Dutch and English--to
+     co-operate and unite in developing its wonderful resources. It was
+     by this way alone--by cordial co-operation and a generous feeling
+     towards one another, that this would be realized. He believed that
+     Imperial Federation would be the best solution of the difficulties
+     which had arisen. He had heard whispers of what was called
+     Republicanism. We worshipped words rather than things; but the
+     British Constitution, especially when it would be expanded by
+     Federation, would be practically a Republic with a Queen as
+     President. He would, therefore, appeal once more to the judgment of
+     thoughtful men to weigh the principles contended for, calmly,
+     wisely, and without prejudice or passion. The flippant, the
+     superficial, the thoughtlessly ambitious, and those who did not
+     take a fair, judicial, and comprehensive view of the great issues
+     involved in it to each portion of the Empire over which the British
+     Crown held sway, might deride and condemn it, but he, as one of its
+     most ardent pioneers and supporters, recommended it to all
+     colonists as well as to his countrymen at home, as the best
+     preservation of their commercial, social, and political interests
+     in the future, which they would lose altogether if they abandoned
+     it in favour of the disintegration of the British Empire. He had
+     studied this question for some years, and by a sort of instinct he
+     felt that it was the right thing to be brought about. He had
+     brought before them proofs that some distinguished men were already
+     feeling the desirability of some such thing being effected, and he
+     could not but help thinking that their ranks would be augmented by
+     other people of influence and power, who may hereafter be brought
+     to think seriously and carefully over this great question. He took
+     the opportunity himself, some three years ago, to put a letter in
+     the London _Times_ suggesting that as the question had now been
+     some years before the public, both in the Colonies and the Mother
+     Country, it would be very desirable indeed if a Royal Commission of
+     Inquiry were sent out, under distinguished auspices, for the
+     purpose of ascertaining the opinions of the various Colonies. This
+     could be carried out on parallel lines to the celebrated Commission
+     sent to Canada, and which resulted in the consolidation of the
+     Dominion. The obtaining of these opinions would be invaluable
+     evidence as to the consensus of feeling in the Colonies on the
+     subject. If the question was to be more than a dream, and became
+     one of practical politics, it would require all the Colonies to
+     express an opinion on the subject. He could not conceive that
+     anything could be more desirable than to take the evidence of
+     distinguished representative men on such a great National question.
+     Those were the views he expressed in the leading journal; they were
+     individual ideas, which did not yet appear to be acceptable, though
+     he could not help hoping that the day would arrive when some such
+     Royal Commission might be appointed, which would give an impetus to
+     the question--and, at all events, afford all those who took such a
+     deep interest in it an opportunity of seeing how far, in the
+     opinion of the various Colonies, such a change in the British
+     Constitution could be effected, to the entire satisfaction of all
+     concerned. There was no desire on the part of the Mother Country,
+     in propounding questions like this, to take any advantage of the
+     Colonies, or do anything which would not be for their benefit.
+     There was no hurry on the part of the Mother Country, which simply
+     asked the Colonies to help to govern and take part in the National
+     politics of the British Empire.
+
+     Mr. J.A. BAM proposed a vote of thanks to Sir Frederick Young for
+     his able and instructive lecture, which was heartily accorded.
+
+     SIR FREDERICK YOUNG having acknowledged the compliment, the
+     proceedings closed with a vote of thanks to the President.
+
+[Illustration: Decorative]
+
+GEORGE BEECHING & SON, Printers, Upper Baker Street, London, N.W.
+
+
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