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diff --git a/16356-h/16356-h.htm b/16356-h/16356-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d39ca68 --- /dev/null +++ b/16356-h/16356-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6162 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight, by George Brannon</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .right {text-align: right;} + .left {text-align: left;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem div {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem div.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} + .poem div.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 4em;} + .poem div.i6 {display: block; margin-left: 6em;} + + /* index */ + + div.index ul li { padding-top: 1em ; } + div.index ul ul ul, div.index ul li ul li { padding: 0; } + div.index ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; } + div.index ul, div.index ul ul ul li { display: inline; } + div.index .subitem { display: block; padding-left: 2em; } + + /* picture index*/ + + div.picindex ul { list-style: none; } + div.picindex ul li span.mono {font-family: monospace;} + + hr.full { width: 100%; } + pre {font-size: 8pt;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight, by +George Brannon</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight</p> +<p> The Expeditious Traveller's Index to Its Prominent Beauties & Objects of Interest. Compiled Especially with Reference to Those Numerous Visitors Who Can Spare but Two or Three Days to Make the Tour of the Island.</p> +<p>Author: George Brannon</p> +<p>Release Date: July 24, 2005 [eBook #16356]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT***</p> +<p> </p> +<h4>E-text prepared by richyfourtytwo, Martin Pettit,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (https://www.pgdp.net/)</h4> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_2lg.jpg" id="illu_2lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_2sm.jpg" style="width: 345px; height: 600px; border: 0" alt="Title page - Brannon's Picture of the Isle of Wight. or the The Expeditious Traveller's Index To its Prominent Beauties & +Objects of Interest. Compiled especially with Reference to those numerous Visitors +who can spare but two or three Days to make the Tour of the Island. Printed and Published +by George Brannon, Wootton, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight</a></p> +<p class="center">or the The Expeditious Traveller's Index<br /> To its Prominent Beauties & +Objects of Interest.<br /> Compiled especially with Reference to those numerous<br /> Visitors +who can spare but two or three Days<br /> to make the <br />Tour of the Island.<br /> Printed and Published +by George Brannon, Wootton,<br /> ISLE OF WIGHT.</p> +<hr /> + +<h2>EXPLANATION.</h2> + + +<p>If nearly <span class="smcap">Forty Years' Residence</span> in the Isle of Wight may be +allowed in some degree to qualify an <span class="smcap">Artist</span> for the office of +Guide, the Author has a fair claim to public patronage,—for few could +have had better opportunity of acquiring local information.</p> + +<p>He has endeavoured to render <span class="smcap">The Picture</span> an intelligent +<i>Cicerone</i>, without being too garrulous or grandiloquous,—but always +attentive to the stranger, leading him to every remarkable object, and +giving just as much description of each, as would be acceptable to +persons enjoying the full use of their eyes. It affords him, <i>at first +glance</i>, an <span class="smcap">Index</span> of what ought to be seen, and <i>how best seen +in the shortest time</i>, in every place to which he may be successively +conducted. This novelty in the work will prove very frequently of great +utility, especially to those visitors who have too little time for their +trip, and who, for want of such a laconic memento wherever they go, are +known in a thousand instances to pass by the most interesting objects +unnoticed,—not being aware even of their proximity.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>This being the production of the same hand as several other local +works, it is due to the stranger to explain in what respects they +differ:—</p> + +<p>I.—THE VECTIS SCENERY is a handsome volume in Royal Quarto, +substantially bound, containing 36 highly finished line-engravings of +all the most celebrated landscapes, accompanied with ample letter-press +descriptions, price £1.5.0.</p> + +<p>II.—THE PICTURE differs from the above in being intended for a +<i>hand-book</i>, it is in fact a Cicerone, and therefore occasionally dwells +with a degree of minuteness which could be interesting only to a person +actually on the spot; but the "Vectis Scenery" takes the higher rank of +an Exhibitor of picturesque scenes which ask little aid from verbal +explanation, and is entitled to a place on the drawing-room table with +other works of Art. The Engravings in the two publications are quite +different.</p> + +<p>III.—The PLEASURE-VISITOR'S COMPANION is a compendium of useful +information, with the different Tours, &c. and Views of the Country +Inns, price 2s., or with Map, 3s.</p> + +<p>IV.—The <span class="smcap">Rev.</span> LEGH RICHMOND'S DESCRIPTION of the Island, with +explanatory Notes and illustrative Engravings, price 2s.6d.</p> + +<p>V.—A MAP of the Island and the Opposite Coast—with the Tours, &c., in +cover, price 1s.6d.</p> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p>It were useless to complain of the piracies committed upon the +Author's labors, both literary and pictorial, by parties in London +as well as in the country; but he may be allowed however to remark, +that some of the most common facts and delineations are strangely +perverted from the Truth in their new dress,—however artfully +disguised to prevent the consequences of palpable detection.</p> + +<p>In cases even where a professional Author may be engaged by a +publisher on a local work, the time allowed is generally too +limited for acquiring accurate knowledge of his subjects: he must +depend either on prior publications or on his personal intercourse +with the residents, for much of his information. In compiling from +the first of these sources, he is very liable to mis-statement, by +investing everything in a new dress to conceal his piracies; and +the latter source leaves him open to imposition—for much of his +matter will be sheer gossip, partial statements, or unfounded +tradition, which a long experience only could detect, and place in +a proper light.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_1lg.jpg" id="illu_1lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_1sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 391px; border: 0" alt="NORRIS CASTLE" /><br />NORRIS CASTLE</a></p> + +<hr /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<div class="index"> +<ul> +<li><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a>—GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. +<ul> + <li class="subitem">Its Peculiar Advantages for a Summer's Excursion</li> + <li class="subitem">Climate, Situation, and Extent</li> + <li class="subitem">Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology</li> + <li class="subitem">Eminent Natives, and Outline of the Local History</li> +</ul></li> + + <li><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a>—THE THREE PRINCIPAL TOWNS, AND THEIR ENVIRONS. +<ul> + <li class="subitem">Carisbrooke Castle and Village</li> + <li class="subitem">Newport and its Environs</li> + <li class="subitem">East and West Cowes, and their Environs</li> + <li class="subitem">Objects on the road between Cowes and Ryde</li> + <li class="subitem">Ryde and its Environs</li> + <li class="subitem">St. Helen's, Bembridge, Sandown, Brading, &c.</li> +</ul></li> + + <li><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a>—THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND, +<ul> + <li class="subitem"> <i>Distinguished for its Romantic Scenery.</i></li> + <li class="subitem">Shanklin Chine and Village</li> + <li class="subitem">Cooke's Castle, and Luccombe Chine</li> + <li class="subitem">East End, commencement of the Undercliff</li> + <li class="subitem">Bonchurch, and Ventnor</li> + <li class="subitem">Appuldurcombe and Godshill</li> + <li class="subitem">Steephill, and St. Lawrence</li> + <li class="subitem">The Undercliff, between St. Lawrence and Niton</li> + <li class="subitem">The New Light-house, and the Sandrock Spring</li> + <li class="subitem">Blackgang Chine, and St. Catharine's Hill</li> + <li class="subitem">Wrecks on the Southern Coast</li> + <li class="subitem">Chale, Gatcombe, Shorwell, Brixton, &c.</li> +</ul></li> + + <li><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a>—THE SOUTH-WESTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND, +<ul> + <li class="subitem"> <i>Distinguished for the most Sublime Scenery.</i></li> + <li class="subitem">The Road over the Downs to Freshwater</li> + <li class="subitem">Freshwater Cliffs, Bay, and Caverns</li> + <li class="subitem">High-down, Main-bench, and Scratchell's Bay</li> + <li class="subitem">Needle Rocks, Alum Bay, Light-house, &c.</li> + <li class="subitem">Freshwater Village, Yarmouth, Calbourne, &c.</li> +</ul></li> +<li> +<ul> + <li><a href="#CONSPICUOUS">Conspicuous Objects on the Hills</a></li> +</ul> +<ul> + <li><a href="#TOURS">Tours through, and Voyage round the Island</a></li> +</ul> +<ul> + <li><a href="#INNS">Lists of the Inns and Seats. Passage and Conveyance, &c.</a></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<hr /> +<h2>LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS.</h2> + +<div class="picindex"> +<ul> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_1lg.jpg">I.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Norris Castle</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_2lg.jpg">II.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Pulpit Rock</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_3lg.jpg">III.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Carisbrooke Castle</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_4lg.jpg">IV.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">West Cowes</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_5lg.jpg">V.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Osbourne</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_6lg.jpg">VI.</a></span>—Town and Pier of <span class="smcap">Ryde</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_7lg.jpg">VII.</a></span>—View from Bembridge Down</li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_8lg.jpg">VIII.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Shanklin</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_9lg.jpg">IX.</a></span>—Shanklin Church</li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_10lg.jpg">X.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Cooke's Castle</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_11lg.jpg">XI.</a></span>—The ancient Parish-church of <span class="smcap">Bonchurch</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_12lg.jpg">XII.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Ventnor</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_13lg.jpg">XIII.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Steephill</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_14lg.jpg">XIV.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">St. Lawrence Church</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_15lg.jpg">XV.</a></span>—St. Lawrence Well</li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_16lg.jpg">XVI.</a></span>—The <span class="smcap">Undercliff</span> near Mount Cleeves.</li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_17lg.jpg">XVII.</a></span>—The new <span class="smcap">Light-house</span> near Niton</li> + <li><span class="mono"><a href="#illu_18lg.jpg">XVIII.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Blackgang Chine</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_19lg.jpg">XIX.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Freshwater Bay</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_20lg.jpg">XX.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Watcombe Bay</span></li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#illu_21lg.jpg">XXI.</a></span>—<span class="smcap">Scratchell's</span> Bay and the Needle Rocks</li> + <li><span class="mono"> <a href="#map_lg.jpg">XXII.</a></span>—Map of the Isle of Wight</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<h3>THE PECULIAR ADVANTAGES OF THE ISLAND AS THE OBJECT OF</h3> +<h2>A SUMMER'S EXCURSION.</h2> + + +<p>Variety is the characteristic charm of the Isle of Wight; the scenery +being in fact a most happy combination of the grand and romantic, the +sylvan and marine—throughout a close interchange of hills and dales, +intersected by streams and rivers: combining the quiet of rural life +with the fashionable gaiety of a watering-place, or the bustle of a +crowded sea-port. But generally, its landscapes are more distinguished +for beauty than sublimity, and hence the very appropriate designation of +<span class="smcap">"the Garden of England!"</span> an emphatic compliment cheerfully paid +by the thousands annually visiting its shores for pleasure or for +health: and perhaps there is scarcely another spot in the kingdom, of +the same narrow limits, which can concentrate more of those qualities +that at once charm the eye and animate the soul. Nor should it be +overlooked how large a source of interest is derived from the proximity +of those two celebrated towns, Southampton and Portsmouth: and the +beautiful termination given to most of the open prospects by the +retiring distances on the opposite coast.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i6">——"Intermixture sweet,</div> +<div>Of lawns and groves, of open and retired,</div> +<div>Vales, farms, towns, villas, castles, distant spires.</div> +<div>And hills on hills with ambient clouds enrolled,</div> +<div>In long succession court the lab'ring sight."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>But the crowning beauty of the Island is certainly <span class="smcap">the Sea!</span> +viewed in all the splendor of its various aspects;—whether under the +awful grandeur of the agitated and boundless <i>Ocean</i>,—as a rapid and +magnificent <i>River</i>,—or reposing in all the glassy tranquillity of a +spacious land-locked <i>Bay</i>:—now of a glowing crimson, and now of the +purest depth of azure: its bosom ever spangled with a thousand moving +and attractive objects of marine life.</p> + +<p>To those who have never had the opportunity of viewing the sea except +under the comparatively dreary aspect which it presents from many +unsheltering parts of the southern coast, as for instance Brighton, +where almost the only relief to the monotony of the wide expanse is a +few clumsy fishing boats or dusky colliers, and occasionally the rolling +clouds of smoke from a passing steamer,—it may seem that we are rather +disposed to exaggerate the picture; but not so, as would certainly be +attested by every one who had visited the island: for here the scene is +ever enriched by magnificent <span class="smcap">ships of war</span>, innumerable +merchant-vessels, and splendid pleasure-yachts, safely lying at anchor +or gaily sailing about in every direction; and what moving object in the +world can surpass, in grandeur, beauty, and interest, a fine ship under +full canvass with a light breeze? Let the reader only imagine how +glorious a sight it must have been, when 200 +sail,—line-of-battle-ships, frigates, and large merchantmen under +convoy, would weigh anchor at the same time, and proceeding on their +voyage, <i>pass round the island</i> as it were in review!—thus affording a +spectacle, as they floated</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>never to be erased from the memory of those who had once the +incomparable pleasure to witness it. True it is, that in these happier +times of peace, such exhibitions are not to be expected: but frequently +even now, very large fleets of merchantmen, and perhaps several +men-of-war, which have put in through distress of weather, or been +detained by contrary winds, will all at the same moment weigh anchor at +the first favorable change. [Footnote: The glories of the olden time +have of late years been frequently revived at the departure of +Experimental and other squadrons rendezvousing at Spithead,—accompanied +as they sometimes are by hundreds of sailing-craft and steamers, +including the beautiful yachts of all the neighbouring clubs.]</p> + +<p>We think it ridiculous to attribute qualities to the island (as is +often done,) which it really does not possess: all we contend for is, +that few spots can excel the Wight <i>altogether in the amount of its</i> +<span class="smcap">various</span> <i>attractions</i>; we mean especially to those parties who +can only snatch occasionally a very brief period for a summer excursion; +not only as regards its <i>peculiar and acknowledged local advantages</i>, +but equally so from those adventitious and auxiliary circumstances that +are derived from the present <i>rail-road</i> conveyance from the metropolis: +and from the <i>shortness</i> and <i>perfect safety</i> of the passage +across—being little more than an hour from Southampton, and only half +that time from Portsmouth; the former an important mercantile port and +fashionable watering-place; and the latter, the first naval station in +the kingdom—its marine treasures too thrown open gratuitously to public +inspection: and what curiosity can afford a Briton more gratification, +than to visit such a dock-yard, and pace the deck of the very ship in +which <i>Victory</i> crowned the last moments of the immortal Nelson?</p> + +<p>Though the island has to boast of many passages of highly romantic and +<i>brilliant</i> scenery, yet the predominant character of its landscapes is, +as was hinted above, calculated to amuse, to delight, and promote +<i>cheerfulness</i>, rather than to astonish or impress the spectator with +feelings of awe by their stupendous grandeur; circumstances which, +combined with its salubrity of climate, render it a most desirable +retreat to the valetudinarian and nervous invalid: indeed all the +alterations which have latterly been made, or are now in progress, tend +to soften, embellish, and in point of convenience to improve the face of +the country. On this subject however it will be a question with many +persons of good taste, whether any of these artificial operations are +really improvements upon the native character of the island. An artist +would most probably decide in the negative: but we know there are many +nevertheless, who consider that whatever deterioration the island may +experience in some of her more wild and romantic features, is amply +compensated by the spread of cultivation and rural decoration, by the +increased facilities of travelling, and the multiplied means of +enjoyment now afforded to the pleasure-tourist.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>A few particulars will suffice for the present, to prove the above +assertions, and may perhaps be found</p> + +<h3>USEFUL HINTS TO STRANGERS</h3> + +<p>Purposing a visit to the shores of the Garden of England. They may +arrange to breakfast comfortably at the usual hour in London—start by +the rail-road, and reach either of the above ports at noon, or even +earlier—steam-packets are in readiness to convey the passengers across, +and stage-coaches and other vehicles await their arrival at Cowes and +Ryde: our friends may then <i>ride round one-half</i> of the island, and +return the next, or even <i>the same night!</i> but this of course is +abridging the affair a little too much. But allow a full week, and that +will suffice to render it a very pleasant trip. If, for example, you +come to Southampton, sleep there, or at least tarry a few hours in the +examination of it: then take the last steamer to Cowes or Ryde, and +sleep there the first night: next morning commence the regular Tour of +three days, dining and sleeping twice or thrice at one or other of the +inns situated on the rocky side of the island, to enjoy at the same time +the more unusual feast of a wide prospect of the sea, and the music of +the foaming breakers thundering on the beach below. Supposing you start +from Cowes, as being opposite Southampton, the Route will bring you +round to Ryde; where you cross to Portsmouth, and having gone over the +fortifications, the dock-yard, and Nelson's ship, return by one or other +of the rail-roads. But if you arrive by Portsmouth and Ryde, then return +<i>via</i> Cowes and 'Hampton.—For the details of the several routes, the +reader is of course referred to the chapter "Tours," at the end of the +Work.</p> + +<p>That part of the island immediately opposite Hampshire is generally +well-wooded, with an easy descent to the shore—populous and busy, as +might be expected from the two considerable watering-places before +named, and several excellent harbors. But the south side (familiarly +called <i>the Back of the Island</i>,) being washed by the impetuous tides of +the ocean, presents a very different aspect, showing the resistless +progress of the waves:—and hence perpendicular cliffs of great +altitude, precipitous slopes constantly detaching large masses of earth +and rocks, and all the picturesque confusion produced by successive +landslips: here therefore the scenery is variously characterized by +dreary devastation, romantic beauty, or sublime splendor of effect. But +not so of <i>the Interior</i> of the island, which presents the softer +pictures of pastoral and rural life: for ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Creation's mildest charms are here combined,"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>enlivened by several splendid mansions, with their parks and groves. The +churches are numerous: some "embosomed soft in trees," and others +picturesquely seated on commanding knolls: and many of the highest hills +are adorned by a light-house or signal-station—some lofty obelisk, +tower, or mill; so that in every direction a conspicuous object gives an +interest and discriminative identity to those broad features of scenery, +which would otherwise be perfectly tame and monotonous.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>Situation, Extent, Climate, &c.</i></h3> + +<p>The Isle of Wight extends from east to west 23 miles, by about 14 from +north to south (being very nearly the figure of a lozenge), +circumscribes at least 60 miles, and contains upwards of 100,000 acres. +It is separated from the Hampshire coast by a strait called the +<span class="smcap">Solent Sea</span>, varying from three to seven miles in width: and +bounded by the British Channel on the south—the nearest part of the +French coast being Cherbourg (18 leagues distant), which is said to have +been seen from the hills of Freshwater, &c. The extent of the English +coast visible in clear weather is above 100 miles, from Beachy Head in +Sussex, to the Isle of Portland in Dorset.</p> + +<p>THE CLIMATE.—The purity of the air was always acknowledged by those who +ever visited the island owing to the dry and highly cultivated face of +the country: but it was left to an eminent Physician, Dr. James Clarke, +to give due celebrity to the unrivaled salubrity of the climate:—</p> + +<p>"The Island, from the variety which it presents in point of elevation, +soil, and aspect, and from the configuration of its hills and shores, +possesses several peculiarities of climate and situation, which render +it a very favorable and commodious residence throughout the year, for a +large class of invalids. On this account, the Isle of Wight claims our +particular attention, as it comprehends within itself advantages which +are of great value to the delicate invalid, and to obtain which, in +almost any other part of England, he would require to make a +considerable journey." And he further remarks, that "the Undercliff bids +fair to exceed all other winter residences in this country, and the +island will have added to its title of the Garden of England, that of +the <span class="smcap">British Madeira</span>."</p> + +<p>The classical designation of the island is <span class="smcap">Vecta</span> or +<span class="smcap">Vectis</span>: but its modern name is derived from Wect, With, or +Wict, as it is found variously written in Doomsday Book.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Some writers have supposed the island to have been once connected +with the mainland by an isthmus stretching from Gurnet, near Cowes, +to Leap, on the Hampshire roast; but nothing decisive has yet been +advanced in support of this strange hypothesis.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The surface of the island presents a constant succession of valley and +eminence—the two principal chains of hills being ... a range of chalk +downs of a smooth rounded shape, and from 500 to 700 feet high, that +stretch lengthways through the middle of the island, abutting the ocean +at Freshwater on the west, and Bembridge on the east:-and a still +loftier range, variously composed of chalk, firestone, &c., that skirts +the south-eastern coast from Shanklin Down to St. Catharine's (the +latter 830 feet in height,) and whose broken flank on the sea-side forms +the celebrated and romantic region of the <span class="smcap">Undercliff</span>.</p> + +<p>The principal streams in the Isle of Wight navigable for marine craft +are the Rivers Medina and Yar, and the Creeks of Newtown and +Wootton.—The Medina, whose source is in the south, and which joins the +sea at Cowes, divides the island into two hundreds of nearly equal +extent, respectively called the East and West Medene; the first +comprising 14, the latter 16 parishes.</p> + +<p>The population of the island has doubled since 1802, and now exceeds +45,000. No manufacture of any consequence is carried on (with the +exception of the lace-factory near Newport,) Corn being the staple +article of trade,—for which there are about 42 mills, nearly all of +them worked by water.</p> + +<p>Almost encompassed by formidable rocks and shelves, few parts of the +English coast are more dangerous to ships driving in a storm. The most +dreaded parts are the Needles and Shingles, at the western point; +Rocken-end Race at the south, and Bembridge Ledge at the eastern +extremity: few winters pass without the melancholy catastrophe of +shipwreck; though the danger is now of course diminished by the +establishment of Light-houses—especially of the new one near +Niton.—Owing to this cause, and to the precipitous nature of the coast +itself, the island presents few points favorable to an enemy's landing, +and even those were for the most part fortified by order of Henry VIII: +The forts of Sandown, Cowes, and Yarmouth still remain; and though they +might be of little use in the present state of military science, the +presence of "England's wooden walls" at the stations of Spithead and St. +Helen's, renders all local defences needless.</p> + +<h3><i>Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology</i>.</h3> + +<p>The island presents many rare geological phenomena: and from its +smallness, easy access, and the various nature of its coasts, offers an +admirable field for scientific investigation.</p> + +<p>One peculiarity deserves to be particularly noticed; namely, the +extraordinary state in which the <span class="smcap">Flints</span> are found in the great +range of chalk hills,—for all those in regular beds, are broken into +pieces in every direction, from two or three inches long, to an almost +impalpable powder; and yet show no other indication of their fracture +than very fine lines, until the investing chalk be removed, when they +fall at once to pieces! But the separate flints or nodules in the body +of the chalk strata are not so: which led the late Sir H. Englefield to +conjecture, that the phenomenon was caused in the moment of the immense +concussion which subverted the whole mass of strata, and placed them in +their present nearly vertical position.</p> + +<p>Another interesting circumstance in the geological structure of the Isle +of Wight, is a series of strata, <i>vertical</i> or highly inclined, which +run across the middle of it from east to west; while the strata on each +side are <i>horizontal</i>; they consist of ... a very thick stratum of clay +and sand (observable at Alum Bay), flinty chalk, chalk without flints, +chalk-marle, green sandstone with lime-stone and chert, dark-grey marle, +and ferruginous sand.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">A Progressive Change</span> is evidently taking place in the boundary +line of the coast—the sea making considerable invasions on the south +side, which is exposed to the resistless currents of the ocean; while on +the north it is found to be more gradually receding, from the +accumulation of sand and shingle drifted and deposited by the less +impetuous tides of the Solent Channel.—About Brixton, for instance, +between Blackgang Chine and the Freshwater Cliffs, the loss of land has +been estimated (from the successive removals of paths and hedges,) to +exceed 200 feet in breadth in less than a century; while in the +neighbourhood of Ryde it is known that the bed of a valley formerly +accessible to the sea is now rather above its highest level; and even in +1760, when Fielding visited the island, the coast there is described by +him as a wide disgusting waste of mud, which is now covered with an +increasing layer of sand, sufficiently firm to bear wheel-carriages; +and no doubt but in process of time there will be a great accession to +the beach, from the constant though slow operation of the same +causes—denuding on the one side, and reciprocally accumulating on the +other.</p> + +<p>Good Stone of various qualities is found in most parts of the island: +and with that procured from the quarries of Binstead, the body of +Winchester Cathedral was built. All the houses along the Undercliff are +constructed with a beautiful kind of freestone procured on the spot.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Extensive pits are worked in the downs for the chalk, which is used +for manure, burning into lime, &c. A stratum of coals was formerly +believed to run through the central downs, and Sir Rt. Worsley +actually sunk a shaft for it near Bembridge; his labors however +were but poorly rewarded. Veins of coarse iron ore have also +appeared in some parts of the island.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The finest white sand in the kingdom is obtained from the sea-cliffs at +Freshwater, and is carried in great quantities to the glass and +porcelain manufactories. Excellent brick-earth abounds in almost every +part of the island: common native alum, copperas, specimens of +petrifactions, and many curious varieties of sea-weeds, are picked up on +the shores; in the cliffs and quarries are found numerous beautiful +fossil remains,—especially oysters and other bivalve shells, of a vast +size.</p> + +<p>The central range of chalk hills divides the island into two nearly +distinct regions, the soil and strata being essentially different,—a +stiff clay predominating on the north side, which is extensively covered +with wood, while the south side is principally of a light sandy soil or +mellow loam, and being exceedingly fertile, the whole tract is almost +exclusively employed in tillage.</p> + +<blockquote><p>In geological terms, the north is formed of the <i>Eocene</i> or +freshwater deposits: and the south of the <i>Cretaceous</i> or oceanic, +except where the <i>Wealden</i> exhibits itself at Sandown and Brixton +bays.—Though affording a great variety of soil, the island is upon +the whole well calculated for farming as may be inferred from its +proverbial fertility; "it was many years ago computed to produce as +much corn in one year as its inhabitants would consume in +seven,—and the improved cultivation, with the additional land +brought into tillage, has doubtless kept pace with the increased +population."</p></blockquote> + +<p>In <span class="smcap">Agriculture</span> there is now a close approximation to the +routine practised in the rest of the county: and there is scarcely any +peculiarity observable either in the system of Husbandry, or in the +manners of the Yeomanry, who are a very intelligent and respectable +class.</p> + +<blockquote><p>The constant intercourse which the inhabitants have with persons +from other parts of the kingdom, has in fact erased all insular +peculiarities. But the following extract from the Memoirs of Sir +John Oglander, which were written about the year 1700, will be read +with interest, as exhibiting a most</p> + +<p class='center'><i>Amusing Picture of the Islanders in the 16th century</i>.</p> + +<p>"I have heard," says he, "and partly knowe it to be true, that not +only heretofore there was no lawyer nor attorney in owre island, +but in Sir George Carey's time [1588] an attorney coming in to +settle in the island, was by his command, with a pound of candles +hanging att his breech lighted, with bells about his legs, hunted +owte of the island; insomuch that owre ancestors lived here so +quietly and securely, being neither troubled to London nor +Winchester, so they seldom or never went owte of the island; +insomuch as when they went to London (thinking it an East India +voyage), they always made their wills, supposing no trouble like to +travaile."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The extensive downs of the island afford excellent pasture for sheep, +whose wool is of a staple not inferior to that produced on the South +Downs: and many thousand lambs are annually sent to the London markets. +From the improvements effected in Husbandry, there are now nearly +sufficient oxen reared and fatted for the use of the inhabitants, +instead of the butchers going as formerly, to Salisbury, &c. for their +cattle.</p> + +<p>The demands of the dock-yards (both here and at Portsmouth,) have +greatly thinned the timber of the island, which is principally oak and +elm, and is found to grow most luxuriantly in the wooded tract from East +Cowes to St. Helen's.</p> + +<blockquote><p>In the time of King Charles II, woods were so extensive, that it is +recorded, a squirrel might have run on the tops of the trees from +Gurnard to Carisbrooke, and in several other parts for leagues +together.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>In ZOOLOGY there is nothing very remarkable, except the absence of +pole-cats, badgers, and till lately, even foxes: but the +poultry-breeders are now indebted for the introduction of the latter to +some sparkish amateurs of hunting: many have been killed, but they are +still breeding rapidly in the favorable fastnesses of the more rocky and +woody districts. Otters too are frequently seen.—<span class="smcap">Game</span> is +abundant, particular attention having been paid to its preservation. +"The great plenty of hares and other game is owing to the care of Sir +Edward Horsey, governor in 1582, who is reported to have given a lamb +for every living hare brought to him from the neighbouring counties."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The Nightingale</span>.—These much-prized birds of passage make the +island their early and most favorite resort; and to those visitors from +the north who perhaps never heard their unrivaled notes, the opportunity +would prove not the least gratifying circumstance in a day's pleasure. +On fine evenings in the months of May and June, the woods and groves in +every direction resound with the delightful chorus of their inimitable +songs.</p> + +<p>Astonishing numbers of sea-fowl resort during the summer months to the +cliff's of Freshwater and Bembridge: in the latter, the eagle has been +known to build its eyry, and in the time of queen Elizabeth they were +famous for a breed of hawks, which were so valued, that it was made a +capital crime to steal them.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fish</span> of every kind common to the southern coast of England is +caught off the island, but not in that abundance which might be +expected, except crabs and lobsters, which are uncommonly large and +fine. Mackarel are some seasons extremely plentiful, small, but +peculiarly sweet. Numbers of porpoises are seen rolling along in the +Solent Sea and Southampton Water; sharks are frequently observed off the +back of the island, and sometimes even the grampus pursuing its prey. In +1814, a large whale was taken off the Shingles (west of the Needle +Rocks,) having been left aground by the ebbing tide: and in the winter +of 1841, another, measuring 75 feet in length, was caught near the same +spot.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>Local Biography and History.</i></h3> + +<p>The following are amongst the most eminent natives of the island:</p> + +<blockquote><p>Sir JOHN CHEEKE, Knt., one of the most distinguished scholars and +virtuous men of his time: he was tutor to Edward VI, and a zealous +protestant, but being induced during the following reign to make a +public recantation, his death, which happened soon after, was +supposed to have been hastened by shame of that humiliating +exhibition.</p> + +<p>Rev. HENRY COLE, D.D., Dean of St. Paul's, a contemporary of the +above, was born at Godshill: he shone in divinity and literature, +and was a strenuous advocate of the Roman-catholic faith.</p> + +<p>THOs. JAMES, D.D., a learned divine and antiquary: was esteemed, +from his extensive erudition, a living library, Born at Newport, +died 1629.</p> + +<p>ROBERT HOOK, M.D., celebrated for his extraordinary inventive +powers in almost every branch of art and science, was born at +Freshwater anno 1635, and died at an advanced age, in Gresham +College.</p> + +<p>JOHN HOBSON, rose by his skill and courage from the obscurity of a +tailor's parish-apprentice to an admiral's rank in the reign of +Queen Anne: he headed Sir George Rooke's squadron in the attack on +Vigo harbour, where a numerous Spanish fleet was entirely captured +or burned.—The little village of Bonchurch claims the honor of his +birth-place.</p></blockquote> + +<p>We shall conclude this general chapter with a brief summary of the +local history, though the annals of a small dependent isle like this, +cannot be expected to possess any very exciting interest.</p> + +<blockquote><p>[In fact it can boast of no important ancient settlements or +records—no valued chronicles of the alternate successes and +defeats of ambitious rival princes and their contending armies, or +the unpitied sufferings of the sacrificed population: and perhaps +it would never have been mentioned in the national history, had it +not been for the imprisonment of fallen royalty in the case of +Charles I. Its situation certainly exposed it to the attacks of +Danish pirates, and subsequently of the French; but these distant +events constituting but a broken and unconnected narrative, the +ensuing brief sketch will we presume be sufficient for the majority +of our readers. We refer those who wish further information on the +subject to the valuable work of Sir Richard Worsley,—from which +this article is partly abridged.]</p> + +<p>It was subdued by the Roman troops under Vespasian, A.D. 43; but +the conquerors could not have experienced much resistance from the +natives, as no remains of their military works have been here +discovered. Under the empire, the island was reckoned to contain +about 1200 families.</p> + +<p>The Saxon kings of the South of England several times attacked the +island with their accustomed unsparing ferocity: particularly +Cerdic, in 530, who replaced the slaughtered British by a colony of +his own countrymen; and Ceadwalla of Murcia, who having seized it +in 686, was so incensed at the idolatry of the inhabitants, that he +resolved at first to extirpate them, and repeople the island with +<i>Christians!</i> but at the intercession of bishop Wilfred, great +numbers saved their lives by submitting to be baptized.</p> + +<p>In the ninth and following centuries the island suffered, in common +with the neighbouring coast, from the predatory visits of the +Danes. For a time indeed they were checked by the great Alfred, who +wholly captured or destroyed one large fleet, laden with the spoils +of Hampshire and the Wight: but under the weak and disordered +reigns of his successors, the northern pirates seem to have taken +possession of this defenceless spot as often as they pleased; and +after making it a depot for the plunder of the adjacent counties, +and living freely on the inhabitants, sometimes wantonly burned +towns and villages at their departure.</p> + +<p>The island was also severely harrassed by some of the rebellious +Saxon nobles in the reign of Edward the Confessor; but after the +Norman Conquest, its tranquillity was not materially disturbed till +the year 1346, when a party of French landed at St. Helen's; they +were soon repulsed by the islanders, though the warden, Sir +Theobald Russell, was amongst the slain. About this time a variety +of excellent regulations were made by the inhabitants for their +better security: the landholders were by their tenures bound to +defend the castle of Carisbrooke for 40 days at their own charges; +the county of Devon sent for its defence 76 men-at arms, and the +city of London 300 slingers and bowmen.</p> + +<p>Another party of the French seem to have made a more successful +attack in the first year of Richard II: indeed the islanders at +that time had little besides their own valor to depend on for +protection; as there were no forts to obstruct an enemy's landing; +Carisbrooke Castle standing in the centre of the island, could +only serve for a partial retreat: and serious ravages might be +committed ere any assistance arrived from the mainland. This want +of domestic security so discouraged the natives, that many families +withdrew, when an order was issued to the wardens to seize the +lands of all such as refused to return.</p> + +<p>Not long afterwards a powerful body of Frenchmen landed in the +island, the militia of which (900 in number,) had been reinforced +from Southampton and London, in expectation of this hostile visit. +The invaders were unable to reduce Carisbrooke Castle, which was +commanded by the governor, Sir H. Tyrrel—and moreover suffered +considerable loss by an ambuscade at a place near Newport, still +called Deadman's Lane; [Footnote: A tumulus where the slain were +buried, at the south entrance to the town, was exultingly named +<i>Noddies'</i> Hill—whence the present appellation Nodehill.] yet as +the houses of the inhabitants lay at their mercy, they were at +length bought off by the payment of 1000 marks, and a promise that +no resistance should be offered, if they revisited the island +within a year.</p> + +<p>In the reign of Henry IV, the French made two other attacks: on the +first occasion they were repulsed with loss; and on the second, +when a large fleet made a threatening demand of a subsidy, the +islanders were so elated at their past success, that they invited +the French to land and try their prowess in fair fight, after +having had sufficient time to rest and refresh themselves: this +handsome challenge was not however accepted.</p> + +<p>Owing to its comparatively remote situation, the island escaped +those calamities which afflicted the rest of the kingdom during the +bloody disputes of the rival Roses: nor was it engaged with any +foreign enemy till the year 1488, when the governor, Sir Edward de +Woodville, having raised a body of about 500 men, passed over to +the continent in aid of the Duke of Bretagne against the king of +France. At the battle of St. Aubin the Bretons were routed, and the +islanders, whom hatred or contempt of the French probably impelled +to a more obstinate resistance, perished to a man: this unfortunate +event plunged the whole island into mourning; and in order to +recruit the diminished population, an act of parliament forbad any +single inhabitant from holding farms above the annual rent of ten +marks.</p> + +<p>On the 18th of July, 1545, a large French fleet appearing off the +Isle of Wight, the English squadron which lay at Spithead, though +greatly inferior in force, stood out to meet them: but the +admiral's ship <i>Mary Rose</i> sinking with most of her crew, the +others retreated into the Solent Channel; while the French landed +several parties of troops, and after some sharp fighting, repulsed +the islanders who had collected to oppose them; it was next +proposed in a council of war to fortify and keep possession of the +island, but this being considered impracticable by any number of +men that could then be spared from the ships, they proceeded to +pillage and burn the villages, till the inhabitants, being +reinforced, attacked and drove them off with the loss of many men, +and one of their principal officers. King Henry VIII, in order to +prevent a repetition of such mischievous visits, erected several +forts and blockhouses for the protection of the coast; and though +the rapid advance of the British naval power still more effectually +guarded it from the danger of foreign invasions, the islanders for +many years afterwards neglected no precautions for their own +defence: a train of field-pieces was provided among the different +parishes, and the militia, in 1625, numbered 2000 men.</p> + +<p>In the division between king Charles I and the parliament, the +islanders at first manifested some zeal in the royal cause; yet as +soon as hostilities commenced at Portsmouth, the Newport militia +expelled the weak garrison of Carisbrooke Castle, which, with the +other forts, were delivered to the parliamentary troops; and on the +arrival of the Earl of Pembroke, the gentlemen and principal +farmers assembled at Cowes, and tendered him their best services. +The inhabitants having thus taken a decisive step in closing with +the prevailing power, remained undisturbed spectators of the +ensuing commotions, till the king injudiciously sought here an +asylum.</p> + +<p>On the 12th of November, 1647, Charles, who had just fled from +Hampton Court, was met at Tichfield by Colonel Hammond, governor of +the Isle of Wight, who invited him to take up his residence at +Carisbrooke Castle. The offer was accepted, and for some time the +royal guest appeared to be quite free and unrestrained in his +actions and company; but afterwards his liberty was gradually +abridged, his confidential servants removed, and himself imprisoned +within the castle; the various unsuccessful attempts that were made +to effect his escape only serving as a pretext to increase the +rigor of his confinement. Yet during the subsequent negociations of +the Treaty of Newport, he was set at large on his parole,—till a +detachment of the army broke off the negociations by arresting and +conveying him to Hurst Castle; 30 days before he lost his life at +Whitehall.</p> + +<p>As its situation preserved it from scenes of hostility between the +troops, the island enjoyed a much happier state than any other part +of the kingdom during the civil war, which caused many families to +retire hither: a circumstance that for the time rose the farm-rents +in the proportion of 20 per cent. The subsequent local history +presents nothing of any interest, with the exception perhaps of the +powerful armaments which assembled in the neighbourhood during the +last French war, and the large bodies of military which were in +consequence here quartered.</p> + +<p>The absolute lordship of the Isle of Wight was given by William the +Conqueror to one William Fitz-Osborne (in reward for his services +at the battle of Hastings), "to be held by him as freely as he +himself held the realm of England"; but in consequence of the +defection of his descendant, it was resumed by the Crown. Henry I +granted it to the Earl of Devon, in whose family it long continued, +till the alienation of it was obtained by Edward I, for a +comparatively small sum. The last grant was to Edward de Woodville +in 1485; from which time there have been successively appointed by +the Crown,—wardens, captains—and governors of the island: but the +powers attached to the office have gradually declined, and at +present it is a mere title, unaccompanied by duty or, we believe, +emolument.—It is an amusing circumstance in the history of this +little spot, that it had once the high-sounding honor of having a +<i>King of its own!</i>—for the Duke of Warwick was so crowned by the +hands of Henry VI, in the year 1444,—but it would seem that the +glory of the name was all which his <i>Vectis</i> Majesty derived from +his accession.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<h3>Carisbrooke, Newport, Cowes, and Ryde.</h3> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p>As a stranger's attention is frequently diverted from noticing many +interesting features of a scene in the hurried moment of his visit, +an index <img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> is placed at the head of each section, pointing only to +the <i>most remarkable objects</i>—a peculiarity which, it is presumed, +will be found extremely useful to those who have little time to +spare for minute examination or research.</p> + +<p>Our arrangement of the subjects supposes the reader to start from a +point nearly central, and pursue his tour of the island in a +regular progress, without frequently retrograding, or considerably +deviating either to the right or left. This order must prove +convenient for reference at all events, let the visitor commence +his journey from any of the principal towns.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>CARISBROOKE CASTLE.</h3> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_3lg.jpg" id="illu_3lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_3sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 435px; border: 0" alt="CARISBROOKE CASTLE, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />CARISBROOKE CASTLE, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">"Still farther in the vale a castle lifts</div> +<div>Its stately towers, and tottering battlements,</div> +<div>Drest with the rampant ivy's uncheck'd growth."</div> +</div></div> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The chief curiosities within the castle are</i> ... <span class="smcap">the Keep</span>, +<i>the immense</i> <span class="smcap">Well</span>, <i>and the apartments which were the</i> +<span class="smcap">Prison</span> <i>of King Charles I and his family</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The high antiquity of this beautiful ruin, which occupies the crown of a +hill only one mile westward of Newport, renders it an object of the most +pleasing interest with all classes of visitors to the Isle of Wight; and +it is the only local specimen of ancient fortification deserving a +stranger's notice. It is known to have existed for at least fourteen +centuries, having in that long period been subjected of course to many +mutations. The Saxon chronicles mention it as a place of strength and +importance in the year 530, when Cerdic subdued the island; and it was +subsequently rendered almost impregnable, according to the mode of +fortification which prevailed among the Normans, by William +Fitz-Osborne, to whom the island was given by the Conqueror. And in the +reign of queen Elizabeth, it received the most substantial repairs and +ample additions; when the outer trenches and bastions were formed upon +the plan of those of Antwerp—circumscribing about 20 acres.</p> + +<p>On our nearly reaching the top of the hill by the carriage-road, we see +first the ancient <span class="smcap">Keep</span>, peering above the rest of the ruins; +and next, the principal and well-guarded entrance to the interior of the +fortress. Passing through an ivied gateway, built in the reign of queen +Elizabeth, as appears by the legible inscription (40 E.R. 1520,) on a +shield over the arch: we proceed to another gateway in a spacious square +building, whose angles are strengthened by two noble round towers: this +opens into the interior area; had several prison rooms, and was armed +with a portcullis: but the whole of it is now in a sad condition,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Defac'd by time, and tott'ring in decay!"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Nothing can be more picturesque than the first view of this venerable +scene: the most luxuriant ivy everywhere mantles the grey walls and +mouldering battlements, interspersed with the waving branches of wild +vegetation: and the surrounding terraces are adorned with the opposing +tints of pines and every variety of deciduous trees.</p> + +<p>Being admitted through the curious old oaken wicket to the inner court, +the attendant cicerone will lead the visitor to several objects in due +succession: the most remarkable are ...</p> + +<p>The place in which the unfortunate king Charles I was confined (1647), +and his children imprisoned after his death: but the apartments are so +dilapidated that it is next to impossible to decide upon their +arrangement: the window however is shown through which he vainly +attempted an escape: this is generally examined with a greater share of +interest than perhaps any other part of the castle, and is often obliged +to contribute as a relic, some minute portion of its crumbling walls.</p> + +<p>THE KEEP is certainly the most ancient part of the fortress, having been +built either prior to, or early in the time of the Saxons: and was +rendered an appendage to the more ample fortifications constructed by +the Normans. It is reached by a flight of 72 stone steps (nine inches +each); was guarded by a portcullis-gate; and provided with a well 310 +feet deep, since partially filled by the falling ruins.</p> + +<p>At the S.E. angle are the remains of another very ancient tower called +<span class="smcap">Montjoy's</span>: the walls in some places are eighteen feet thick.</p> + +<p>The <span class="smcap">Well-house</span> is to many persons the most attractive object +within the walls of the castle,—for should the solemn ruins fail to +impress that sentiment of reflection which proves to others the very +zest of their visit, they will at least be not a little amused by the +apt performance of a docile ass, whose task it is to draw up water from +a well 300 feet deep! This office he performs by treading rapidly inside +of an immense windlass-wheel (15½ feet in diameter,) whereby he gives +it the necessary rotatory motion. The natural longevity of these patient +laborers is here exemplified by the instances on record; one done the +duty for above 50 years, another 40, and another nearly 30. To afford +some idea of the depth of the well, a lighted candle is lowered: and +water is thrown down from a bucket, which produces quite a startling +noise,—it will be three or four seconds in falling. For the same +purpose, pins were formerly employed, but these were strictly forbidden, +on account of their deleterious tendency on the water.</p> + +<p>The Chapel, the Governor's apartments, the Barracks, Powder Magazine, +&c. are also pointed out; but to go over the whole works of this +venerable monument of antiquity, and give a minute detail of the several +parts usually shown to strangers, would be tedious to the <i>reader</i>, +though doubtless every spot and fragment must be viewed by the <i>visitor</i> +with a lively interest.</p> + +<p>If a party be not pressed for time, they should go round the outer +terrace, reckoned a mile in circumference, the walk is in some parts +sequestered and most pleasingly solemn, in other points presenting very +charming views; and altogether calculated to raise our admiration, and +give a more perfect idea of this beautiful specimen of ancient +fortification.</p> + +<p>The open space in the outworks, called the Place of Arms, is where the +Archery Club resort during the season for exercise; no spot certainly +could be more convenient: though by the bye, there is a degree of modish +gaiety on such occasions, which is not altogether in character (at least +to a picturesque eye,) with the solemnity of a scene betraying ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"The grey and grief-worn aspect of old days!"</div> +</div></div> + +<blockquote><p>The military establishment of the castle is at present altogether a +sinecure; formerly this was the regular seat of the insular +government; but now it is quite deserted, save by the individual +who has the privilege of showing the place to strangers, and his +attendants.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>THE VILLAGE OF CARISBROOKE</h3> + +<p>Is an extremely pretty place, and still very populous, though much less +so than formerly, when it enjoyed the consequence of a <span class="smcap">city</span>, +guarded by the only fortress in the island to which the inhabitants +could fly for refuge in the moment of invasion: it rises on a hill +opposite that on which stand the venerable ruins of the Castle: and in +the intervening valley a beautiful stream winds its course towards +Newport, sufficiently copious to turn several mills—the springs +supplying water highly esteemed for its purity. The church is of great +antiquity: and its tower is a very handsome specimen of Gothic +architecture, proudly relieving itself from the surrounding trees and +habitations. There are several genteel residences, and a few good +lodging-houses in the village, whose neatly dressed gardens, +interspersed with lofty trees, and environed by the most agreeable +scenery, give to the place altogether an uncommon air of rural beauty.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">"How picturesque the view, where up the side</div> +<div>Of that steep hill, the roofs of russet thatch</div> +<div>Rise mix'd with trees, above whose swelling tops</div> +<div>Ascends the tall church-tower, and loftier still</div> +<div>The hill's extended ridge, crown'd with yellow corn—</div> +<div>While slow beneath the bank, the silver stream</div> +<div>Glides by the flowery isles and willow groves."</div> +</div></div> + +<hr /> +<h3>NEWPORT.</h3> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>To form an idea merely of the Town, it will be sufficient for a +stranger to pace two or three of the principal streets—the High-st. of +course from one end to the other; he will then see the</i> +<span class="smcap">TOWN-HALL</span>: <i>the old</i> <span class="smcap">Parish-church</span>, <i>situated in the +Corn-market; the public</i> <span class="smcap">Library</span> <i>in the Beast-market; and the +ancient</i> <span class="smcap">Grammar-school</span>. <i>The most inviting short walks are +over</i> <span class="smcap">Montjoy's</span> <i>to Carisbrooke</i>—<i>to the top of</i> <span class="smcap">Pan +Down</span>—<i>and to Hurststake, on the banks of the</i> <span class="smcap">River</span>, <i>at +high tide</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class="smcap">Newport</span> is allowed by most travellers to be as clean and pretty +a country-town as any in the kingdom. The houses are of a modern and +respectable construction: the streets regular and well paved, with +sufficient descent to be always clean; and two copious streams water it +on the east and west.</p> + +<p>Being closely surrounded by an amphitheatre of lofty downs, beautifully +checquered by pasture and cultivation, cottages and villas,—the +environs are of the most agreeable and inviting character, and the +climate mild and salubrious; to those therefore who love to blend social +intercourse with the pleasures of a cheerful yet quiet retreat, Newport +presents many decided attractions. Years ago it was observed, that +"there were few provincial towns which could afford independence more +sources of rational enjoyment:" and since then there has been a great +accession to the local means of intellectual pleasure, in respect of +philosophical and literary institutions, private and professional +reading societies, a Mechanics' Institution, circulating libraries, &c. +&c. The places of public worship too have equally increased; being three +episcopal (two of recent erection), two for Independents, two for +Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, a Bible-Christian, a Roman-catholic, +a Unitarian, and a Particular-baptist. There are five respectable inns, +in the town (see the List), and two assembly-rooms.</p> + +<p>From its central position, it is well calculated for being the principal +market-town, and, as it were the metropolis, of the island. On the +Saturdays in particular, it presents a very animated scene: being +frequented by all classes who are obliged to attend for the purposes of +business, or upon judicial affairs; which would naturally induce many +other parties to visit in favorable weather, were it only for the sake +of a pleasant jaunt.</p> + +<p>These advantages of course give it a steady trade in almost every branch +of business; and latterly the shops have exchanged much of their +antiquated country appearance for the more imposing style of the +fashionable towns,—where dazzling glare is resorted to as the chief +attraction.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Though Newport does not depend, like the watering-places, upon the +annual influx of visitors engaging their lodgings for a season, yet +many of the best situated and most convenient houses are handsomely +fitted-up for the purpose; and should the river be ever +sufficiently deepened to admit a passage steamer to ply at regular +hours without regard to the state of the tide, Newport might defy +all competition, by the rapid improvement of its various local +capabilities which would necessarily follow.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The River (called the Medina, from dividing the island in the middle,) +is navigable from Newport to Cowes for vessels of sixty or seventy tons +burthen, during high water. The banks are beautifully dressed with +scattered groves and copse-wood: and interspersed with the arable fields +and meadows are several churches, seats, villas, farms, and cottages, on +either side: and as the lands rise rather boldly, the while scene is +viewed to advantage from the water, and will be found to afford a very +delightful trip on a summer's day, to or from Cowes; the party leaving +by the returning tide after about two hours' stay at either place.</p> + +<blockquote><p>The gayest season at Newport is during the Whitsuntide Fair, and +three successive Saturdays at Michaelmas, the time when the +agricultural servants receive their wages, and re-engage for the +following year. The old custom of the female-servants assembling at +one part of the town, and the men at another, for the purpose of +engaging in new situations, is still partially kept up; these +occasions are familiarly called the "Bargain-fair Saturdays," the +middle or principal one falling on the first Saturday in October.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + + +<h3>PUBLIC BUILDINGS.</h3> + +<p>Of these the most conspicuous is the <span class="smcap">Guildhall</span>, situated nearly +in the centre of the town: it is rather a stately edifice of the Ionic +order. Here the magistrates of the whole island meet every Saturday for +hearing and deciding upon petty causes: and examining and committing +prisoners to the Winchester assizes, or in, minor offences to take their +trials at the quarter sessions for the Isle of Wight, formerly held at +Winchester, but which are <i>now</i> very properly <i>adjourned</i>, to save the +inhabitants the great inconvenience and expense of crossing the water. +There are also the quarter sessions for the borough; and that excellent +institution, the County Court for the settlement of small debts.—In the +area beneath the hall is held the Saturday's market for poultry, eggs, +and butter.</p> + +<p>Another showy building is the <span class="smcap">Isle of Wight Institution</span>, or +permanent public Library, to which nearly all the neighbouring gentry +subscribe. Besides the reading-room and library it contains a museum for +local curiosities, &c. Temporary residents in the island may become +subscribers for six months by a payment of 25s.</p> + +<p>The <span class="smcap">Free-Grammar School</span> is the only building claiming respect +for its antiquity (besides the parish-church), situated in the street +leading to the Cowes road: it was erected by subscription in the year +1619, and duly endowed. Though recently having been repaired throughout, +its appearance is still rather picturesque: and possesses considerable +historic interest, from the memorable conference held here between the +parliamentary commissioners and king Charles the First, up to the +unfortunate moment when he was unexpectedly seized and imprisoned in +Hurst Castle.</p> + +<p>The PARISH-CHURCH is considered to be of the age of Henry II, as it is +dedicated to St. Thomas-a-Becket: it is spacious, and has a fine lofty +square tower; but there is nothing very particular either in its +architecture or antiquities to call for minute description. The chief +curiosities are ... the Pulpit, remarkable for its rich and ingenious +carving: a monument to Sir Edward Horsey; and the spot where the second +daughter of King Charles was buried: she died while the family were +prisoners at Carisbrooke—and it was only by accident in the year 1793 +that the vault was discovered.—<span class="smcap">St. John's Church</span>, built a +few years ago on the south side of the town, at the foot of Montjoy's, +is a conspicuous object in most points of view: and though plain in +appearance, is very convenient in its interior arrangements: it is +supported on the voluntary principle.</p> + +<p>Newport returns two members to parliament.—The number of inhabitants in +the town, which has considerably extended beyond the limits of the +borough, is about 7000. The corporate body consists of 24 members; but +since the passing of the Municipal Reform Act, there can of course be +nothing peculiar in their constitution of which the reader need be +informed.</p> + +<blockquote><p>A Lace-factory on a very extensive scale is established just +without the town, on the east side, going to Ryde: in the town is +also an establishment which gives employment to many females in the +lace-embroidering process.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>The Environs of Newport</i>.</h3> + +<p>The following villages and hamlets are nearly connected with, or +gradually approximating the town:—</p> + +<p>On the eastern side, surrounded by meadows, is BARTON's VILLAGE, near +which a neat little church has lately been opened, on the road to +Ryde;—just above it is a gentleman's seat called <span class="smcap">Bellecroft</span>.</p> + +<p>SHIDE, half a mile to the south, is picturesquely seated at the foot of +the steep and high down called Pan: the river Medina flows through the +grounds, and there are several respectable villas in its immediate +neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>Westward is the NEW VILLAGE, a street of genteel and comfortable houses +(some of which are furnished for lodgings,) leading to Carisbrooke: +behind it is the hill called Montjoy's, from whose lofty summit is +obtained the most comprehensive view of Newport, its river, and the +adjacent country. There is also a small hamlet on <span class="smcap">Hunny-hill</span>, +north of the town.</p> + +<p>FAIRLEE is a principal seat, a mile north of Newport. The house is large +and of respectable appearance: standing at the head of an extensive and +beautiful lawn which slopes to the eastern bank of the river, surrounded +by close and open groves.</p> + +<p>About a mile from Newport, on the road to West Cowes, stands the HOUSE +OF INDUSTRY, a very large building, generally containing between 500 and +600 paupers; it includes within its walls a lunatic asylum, hospital, +school, and chapel: and has an extensive garden attached.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Its internal affairs and out-door relief are regulated by a Board +of Guardians and Directors, consisting of a certain number of +respectable inhabitants, chosen from every parish in the +island,—under the provisions of an Act of Parliament obtained in +the year 1770 for the parochial consolidation of the whole island. +They are therefore independent of the Poor-law Commissioners, and +have adopted only as much as they thought proper of the general +statute.</p></blockquote> + +<p>ALBANY BARRACKS, on the opposite side of the road, are capable of +accommodating nearly 2000 troops—for a long time however the complement +stationed here seldom exceeded a few companies, and for months together +there would not be even a serjeant's guard: but latterly the depots of +several regiments have been removed hither: so that there are now often +from 1000 to 1500 men at the same time.</p> + +<p>Westward of the Barracks, bordering the Yarmouth road, is the extensive +tract called <span class="smcap">Parkhurst Forest</span>, planted a few years since with +oaks and Scotch firs, by order of Government.</p> + +<p>PARKHURST PRISON, to the north of the barracks, is an extensive range of +buildings, dedicated to the benevolent purpose of reclaiming from +infamy, if possible, a large number of juvenile criminals of the male +sex.</p> + +<blockquote><p>To accomplish this truly desirable object (as <i>punishment</i> ought +certainly to be <i>corrective</i> in the best sense of the word), the +boys are regularly instructed by competent tradesmen, in such +branches of popular business as may be best suited to their +respective capacities: in conjunction with the most approved course +of common school-education. Particular attention is likewise paid +to the elevation of their moral character, so likely to be +permanently influenced by means of impressive friendly admonition, +the frequent inculcation and daily observance of religious duties, +and the exciting hope of reward for good behaviour in a mitigation +of their sentence: in short, by the most encouraging and kind +treatment, as far as is compatible with the strictness of prison +discipline. None therefore, but the thoroughly incorrigible, can +leave the institution without being greatly improved in their +habits and dispositions, if not altogether reformed; since <i>Order, +Cleanliness, Activity</i>, and <i>Industry</i>, must become almost natural +to them by the time they are discharged,—their understandings +cultivated, and their minds more or less impressed with the +sentiments of virtue and religion.</p> + +<p>It would be injudicious to enter in detail on the subject of the +routine management, or the particular discipline adopted in the +respective wards: as very probably many alterations will be +introduced from time to time, as experiment and practice may +suggest: and moreover, as a "Report" is annually published by order +of Government (at a low price), containing the most minute +particulars in every department of the Asylum. For the same reasons +we have avoided any description of the architectural plan of the +prison, a pretty good idea of which may be formed in passing by on +the high-road.—We must however mention one fact that speaks highly +favorably of the salutary system adopted, namely, that during the +five years from the opening of the institution in 1838, there +occurred but two deaths among the boys, though the number averaged +about 250 at the same time.</p> + +<p>The establishment has been visited by several eminent persons, who, +after having particularly examined the course adopted in every +department, expressed themselves so well pleased with its +management and beneficial tendency, that another building at a +short distance was erected in 1843; and altogether there is +sufficient room now for 700 or 800 delinquents. No stranger is +admitted without an order from the Home Secretary of State.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The newly erected residences of the officers and other parties connected +with the prison, barracks, &c., altogether form quite a village, known +by the general term of Parkhurst.</p> + +<hr /> + + +<h3>WEST COWES.</h3> + + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The transient visitor here should immediately inquire for the</i> +<span class="smcap">Parade</span>—<i>pass by the</i> <span class="smcap">Castle</span> <i>on the beach, to the +bathing-machines</i>—<i>retrograde by the carriage-road under the</i> <span class="smcap">New +Church</span>—<i>mount the hill at the back of the Castle</i>—<i>reach the</i> +<span class="smcap">Old Church</span>, <i>which is contiguous to</i> <span class="smcap">Northwood +Park</span>—<i>and then return, to cross over to E. Cowes</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The decided advantages of Cowes are ... its excellent shore for +bathing—and its safe and commodious harbour—which recommend it +strongly as a fashionable watering-place, and the resort of gentlemen +fond of aquatic amusements.</p> + +<p>The appearance of this town from the water, particularly when approached +by the passage from Southampton, is extremely pleasing; as the acclivity +of the hill on which it stands is sufficiently bold to admit of the +houses being seen above each other, as if built on a succession of +terraces, while their starting formality is charmingly relieved by the +intervening shrubberies and groups of lofty trees. To a stranger +however, who may confine his walk to the streets just where he lands, +this favorable impression would be almost obliterated,—for they are +both narrow and crowded: though in these respects there is some +improvement the further he goes either to the east or the west; but it +is near the Castle that he must look for the greatest share of united +beauty and respectability. The truth is, the lower part near the quay is +of course occupied by tradesmen, for the advantages of business, and +convenient landing-places; and as their houses stand at the edge of the +water, many parties prefer their lodgings to those in the more open +quarters on the top of the hill,—and many of them are therefore +elegantly furnished for letting.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class="smcap">The Parade</span> affords a delightful promenade, being on the water's +edge. Here are several first-rate houses, standing at the foot of the +steepest part of the hill, which is luxuriantly clothed with hanging +shrubberies and several groups of majestic trees, presenting a perfectly +unique picture of sylvan and marine beauty. The Royal Yacht-Club House, +with its ample awning, and the very elegant Gothic villa of Sir John +Hippesley, will be particularly noticed.</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_4lg.jpg" id="illu_4lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_4sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 410px; border: 0" alt="THE CASTLE, WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br />THE CASTLE, WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT</a></p> + +<p>THE CASTLE stands westward of the Parade: but were it not for a small +battery of eleven guns in front, the stranger might search in vain for a +fabric which he could identify as "a Castle," at least by any portion of +its modernized architecture and surrounding embellishments. In fact, the +original dwelling was a few years ago greatly enlarged—made a story +higher—the open ground at the back inclosed (!)—with other alterations +to render it a fit residence for nobility. It was built by king Henry +VIII, about the same time as those at Sandown, Yarmouth, and Calshot, +for the purpose of securing the coast against the then frequent attacks +of pirates, as well as the more formidable invasions of the French.</p> + +<p>Beyond the Castle are the bathing-machines; the villas of Earl Belfast +and Lord Grantham; and behind these several others built in various +tasty styles, and acquiring a picturesque effect from being more or less +screened by the copse-wood on the steep slope at their back. But the +chief ornament of this quarter is the new Episcopal chapel, whether +viewed near, or from a distance on the water,—being a chastely-elegant +structure in the Gothic style, in a most commanding situation: it is +private property. Should the stranger feel disposed to extend his walk +for about a mile further on the beach, which he would find very +agreeable—he will come to a gentleman's residence distinguished by an +air of antiquity, named Westcliff, though the neighbourhood is popularly +called <span class="smcap">Egypt</span>.</p> + +<blockquote><p>We make this remark, because there is a lane close by, which turns +up to the high-road from Cowes to Gurnard Bay, and by this road we +would recommend the visitor by all means to return, for the sake of +the magnificent prospect which it affords, and on the peculiar +character of which the <i>permanent</i> attractions of the place so much +depend. But to do this justice, the reader must have recourse to +his Map. The most prominent objects are Calshot Castle, standing +apparently isolated at the mouth of Southampton Water, and the tall +tower of Eaglehurst, seated on the neighbouring shore.</p> + +<p>By "permanent attractions," we mean, that many landscapes of the +most romantic character fail to attract our attention for any +considerable time, on <i>repeated</i> visits, if destitute of those +ever-varying circumstances which have in some degree the interest +of <span class="smcap">novelty</span> such for instance as the rural, and more +particularly the <i>marine</i> prospects of the Isle of Wight; these +afford an endless source of amusement to the speculative +eye,—whether directed to the soft and gradual changes on the +variegated face of Nature <i>under cultivation</i>, or to the more +animated, and constantly shifting scene exhibited in a crowded +sea-port, or where there are other safe and ample roadsteds for the +heaviest ships of war. In these advantages Cowes and Ryde stand +pre-eminent.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Scenes must he beautiful, which daily viewed,</div> +<div>Please daily, and whose novelty survives</div> +<div>Long knowledge, and the scrutiny of years—</div> +<div>Praise justly due to those that I describe"</div> +</div></div> + +</blockquote> + +<p>We are now supposed to have reached the top of the hill, where the old +<span class="smcap">Church</span> is situated: this is a spacious, plain building, having +a very tall square tower, as destitute of beauty as anything of the kind +can well be: yet as it peers loftily above all the surrounding objects, +is a great improvement to the outline of the hill, when viewed from any +considerable distance. Contiguous to the crowded cemetery stands ...</p> + +<p>NORTHWOOD HOUSE, a large and elegant mansion in the Palladian style of +architecture. The <span class="smcap">Park</span> is an extensive demesne, and profusely +planted; there are however comparatively few of those venerable sylvan +honors which constitute the beauty of park-scenery.</p> + +<p>On the eastern slope of the hill, where the high-road turns off for +Newport, stands <span class="smcap">Westhill</span>, a charming cottage-ornee in the +centre of a smooth sloping lawn interspersed with magnificent elms and +close shrubberies.—In the environs of Cowes are several other genteel +residences: <span class="smcap">Moor-House</span> is distinguished by its Gothic pinnacles +and commanding station: and near Gurnard Bay is a pretty retired seat, +appropriately called <span class="smcap">Wood-vale</span>.</p> + +<p>Besides the two churches, there are Catholic, Independent, and Wesleyan +chapels. There are three large Hotels (see the List), and several minor +places of good accommodation; reading-rooms, a Mechanics' Institution, +&c.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>EAST COWES.</h3> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The town itself has nothing to interest a stranger: but in the +vicinity are several first-rate seats and marine villas—the most +distinguished being</i> <span class="smcap">Osborne</span>, <span class="smcap">Norris</span>, <i>and</i> <span class="smcap">East +Cowes Castle</span>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>This little town is separated from West Cowes by the river Medina, which +here joins the sea. From the unexpected concurrence of various favorable +circumstances, it is looking-up to be a place of some importance: the +value of property has already considerably advanced, and trade in +general improved. It has one good Hotel, several respectable +lodging-houses: a neat episcopalian church, and an Independent chapel. +Having a large shipwright's yard, and a number of marine stores, wharfs, +&c., where merchant-ships lie alongside to take in or unload their +cargoes, it often exhibits much of the bustling appearance of a sea-port +town. There is a private landing-place near the ferry, for the +accommodation of Her Majesty. The Custom-house has been removed to the +other side of the harbour.</p> + +<p>The immediate neighbourhood of East Cowes has long been extremely +beautiful, from being almost entirely covered with charming seats and +villas, whose luxuriant groves and shrubberies give the scenery an +uncommonly rich effect: and her Majesty having made this part of the +island her marine residence, it now possesses a proud distinction in +point of interest with the British public.</p> + +<p>A stranger should make his perambulation by first ascending the hill by +the <i>old</i> carriage-road, passing several villas (see list) secluded by +dense shrubberies and large trees; a circumstance little to be +regretted, as their chief boast is the amenity of their location. But +through the tall plantations on the right our eye will be delightfully +attracted by the picturesque turrets of East Cowes Castle, and the +surrounding beautiful grounds. At the pretty lodge-entrance to the +castle, the road divides,—the left-hand branch running to Norris, the +right to Osborne and Newport; and in about eight or ten minutes' further +walk, we can return by the new road through "East Cowes Park."</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_5lg.jpg" id="illu_5lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_5sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 419px; border: 0" alt="OSBORNE, ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br />OSBORNE, ISLE OF WIGHT</a></p> + +<h3><i>The Principal Seats near East Cowes.</i></h3> + +<p>OSBORNE, the property of <span class="smcap">her most Gracious Majesty</span>, is +entitled, equally from public interest and its own importance, to the +first notice under this head.—The situation is everyway eligible for +the <i>marine</i> residence of a sovereign of the British Isles: for it +commands a most extensive and <i>animated</i> prospect, including Spithead +and other naval stations: has a beautiful sea-beach (with a private +landing-place); and is sheltered by extensive woods and plantations. The +original seat was a plain family mansion surrounded by park-like +grounds, which have been extended by the purchase of several +farms—including <span class="smcap">Barton</span> (whose fine old Elizabethan manor-house +has received a complete and judicious reparation): so that the estate is +now most conveniently bounded on the west by the high-road from East +Cowes to Newport; on the south by a branch of the same road to Ryde; on +the east by a sheltered cove called King's Quay (as tradition will have +it from the circumstance of King John there concealing himself for a +time when opposed by the barons): and on the north-east by the beautiful +Solent Channel. Thus compassed by the sea and the best roads in the +island, it extends from north to south about two miles and a half, by +nearly two miles from east to west; enjoying the most delightful variety +of scenery, from the simple picture of rural life to the grandeur of our +<span class="smcap">naval glory</span>, and the majesty of the ocean itself.</p> + +<blockquote><p>The quality of the soil differs very considerably; but the worst is +well adapted for oak-plantations; and the thorough draining and +other improvements now carrying on will make the whole admirably +suited for agricultural pursuits, to which H.R.H. the Prince +Consort is very partial. A great part of the estate is enclosed by +a park-fence; and through the luxuriant woods and undulating +grounds, several miles of excellent private carriage-roads have +been constructed, much more being in progress.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The <span class="smcap">Palace</span> occupies the site of the old house; it is in the +Palladian style (which so admirably admits the application to domestic +architecture of the most beautiful features of the Grecian orders). +Within the ballustrade of its lofty flat roof is a charming promenade in +fine weather.</p> + +<p>The flag-tower is 107 feet in height, the clock-tower 90, the first +terrace-wall 17, and the second 10. The Royal Apartments are contained +in the loftiest part of the building—they are handsome and spacious, +and standing altogether in advance, command on every side the most +uninterrupted views: at the back is the flag-tower, communicating with +an open corridor which extends the whole of the north-west face of the +building; and on the other side of the tower is the carriage-entrance, +opening on pleasure-grounds adorned with the choicest varieties of +ornamental shrubs—thriving with a luxuriance which promises well for +the appearance of the estate, when the whole shall have been finished. +The builder is T. Cubitt, esq.; but the design, we believe, was +principally furnished by His Royal Highness Prince Albert himself—whose +taste, and knowledge of the fine arts, well qualify him for the +undertaking.</p> + +<blockquote><p>As it would be almost impossible to convey by verbal description a +correct idea of the general appearance of this noble structure, we +beg to refer our readers to the annexed Engraving—and also to the +Views of Osborne, recently published in the "Vectis Scenery," and +which may be purchased separately at 1s. each.</p></blockquote> + +<p>NORRIS is a noble specimen of the castellated mansion, having been +built in imitation of an ancient Norman fabric—massive in its +construction, and remarkable for a stern simplicity of style disdaining +all minute decoration. From this circumstance, and some of the loftiest +towers being enveloped in the most luxuriant ivy, the whole building has +so venerable an air of antiquity, even when closely examined, that we +can hardly suppose it to be the production of modern days: and enjoying +too as it does an uncommonly fine position on the most northern hill of +the island, its general aspect is truly magnificent in every point of +view. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the castle commands a most +interesting marine prospect.</p> + +<p>Some of the rooms are of elegant dimensions, and the arrangement of the +whole considered good—such indeed might be expected from the reputation +of the architect, the late Mr. Wyatt. The stables, &c., are also on a +very ample scale, and in the same plain, substantial style as the +castle, for which they have not unfrequently been taken by strangers at +the first glance.</p> + +<p>The grounds are now well timbered: the plantations beautifully dressing +the steep slope even to the water's edge. The utmost privacy might be +enjoyed, for there is the accommodation of a good landing-place, and a +carriage-road thence to the house.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Norris was the property of the late Lord Henry Seymour, who was +engaged many years in its construction, and must in the course of a +long period have expended immense sums in improvements that may be +said to be now buried from our view. After his demise, it was +two seasons chosen for the residence of their R.H. the Duchess of +Kent and the Princess Victoria (during which time the latter +improved remarkably in her health): and has since been purchased on +very moderate terms by R. Bell, esq.—who greatly extended the +scope of the grounds by fresh purchases of land, especially by some +belonging to the Osborne estate—previously to her Majesty's +negociating for its possession.</p></blockquote> + +<p>EAST COWES CASTLE, which enjoys a truly enviable site (for it combines +an uncommon degree of shelter with the most extensive and <i>animated</i> +prospect), is built in the bold style usually termed the Moorish, and +has three handsome fronts of varied elevations, with a tasteful +diversity of towers, mantled more or less by the most luxuriant ivy, and +a great variety of elegant flowering plants. The Conservatory is a +splendid addition; and the grounds, though not extensive, are very +beautiful.</p> + +<blockquote><p>East Cowes Castle was built by, and continued for many years to be +the favorite residence of the late John Nash, esq., and was with +him a sort of architectural pet, receiving from time to time such +additions and alterations as appeared to be improvements to the +general design, or called for on the score of enlarged +accommodation; a circumstance certainly not calculated to insure +the greatest amount of domestic convenience (as regards the size +and arrangement of the rooms), though no doubt contributing largely +to the picturesque effect of the exterior. On Mr. Nash's demise it +was purchased by Earl Shannon,—and after his death by N. Barwell, +esq., who in 1846 sold off all the furniture, and valuable +productions of art which adorned this beautiful object of interest +to visitors.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> +<h3>"EAST COWES PARK"</h3> + +<p>Is the title of a very extensive building speculation, which comprehends +above 100 acres of land, lying between Osborne and East Cowes. This +tract was a few years back laid out for the erection of a number of +elegant villa-residences, each to be surrounded with its garden and +shrubbery, yet to command a delightful marine view. Excellent roads were +made, having on either side a foot-path, flower-border, and neat iron +pallisade; handsome gateways erected; and a pier, botanic garden, and +other attractive improvements commenced or projected. The speculation +did not however meet the success it merited, and comparatively few +houses have as yet been built.</p> + +<hr /> + + +<h3>THE HARBOUR,</h3> + +<p>To which Cowes is principally indebted for its origin and present +importance, enjoys a high character for safety as well as convenience: +it is used by vessels of heavy tonnage, either in waiting for a +favorable wind, or for the purpose of repairing damages sustained at +sea; and after stormy weather, is often crowded with ships of various +nations, in addition to those registered at the place—this being the +port for the whole island.</p> + +<p>There are spacious dockyards, patent slips, &c., both at East and West +Cowes: at the latter, excellent dry docks. The naval builders have long +held a high reputation for skill: several men-of-war were built here +during the last century; and of late years numerous beautiful +pleasure-yachts, merchantmen, sloops of war, and other +vessels—including the <i>Medina</i>, a first-rate steam-ship (lost on the +West India passage), and some large steamers for various foreign +governments.</p> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p class="center">THE ROYAL-YACHT-SQUADRON</p> + +<p>Make Cowes their port of rendezvous: they contribute largely to the +maritime gaiety of the place, and give particular classes of +tradesmen an extensive share of employment; but the town altogether +does not, it is said, derive that degree of fostering patronage +from their presence which might be expected. The <i>Royal Thames +Yacht-club</i> often make this their summer-station.</p> + + +<p class="center">THE REGATTA</p> + +<p>Generally takes place in August, and is an exciting source of +hilarity with the inhabitants of Cowes, as well as numerous +visitors from every part of the island and opposite coast,—should +the weather prove favorable at the time. The sailing-matches are +now mostly confined to the members of the Royal Yacht-squadrons: +and it is to be regretted, that owing to the distance which they +sail, and the number of days engaged, comparatively little pleasure +is afforded to the mere spectator: there is however usually one +day's continued amusement—when sailing and rowing matches for +liberal subscription-prizes likewise take place between the local +watermen, &c.—excellent bands of music attend,—and in the evening +there is a brilliant display of fire-works, both from the shore and +from the yachts in various parts of the harbour. On these occasions +the appearance of the whole is animated beyond description; and to +a person from the country, the exhibition of such a numerous +assemblage of the most beautiful vessels in the world must prove a +lively gratification, for they are of every size and variety of +rig, from the stately ship of 4 or 500 tons burthen down to the +yawl of only 10.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>Cowes lies extremely convenient for parties fond of aquatic trips: +for which purpose a number of experienced watermen ply excellent +boats: they are most frequently engaged in the short and pleasant +excursions to Beaulieu, Netley, Southampton (on the opposite +coast), and Newport; sometimes to Alum Bay, and even for a voyage +round the island.</p> + +<p>The bathing here is considered very excellent: particularly so at +W. Cowes, from the boldness and pebbly character of the beach, +admitting the machines to be put in requisition in all states of +the tide,—a very great advantage. There are also hot and other +baths for the use of invalids, both at the machines and at certain +parts of the town.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + + +<h3><i>The Road from East Cowes to Ryde.</i></h3> + +<p>WHIPPINGHAM CHURCH stands near the second mile-stone, on the ascent of a +hill rising from the eastern bank of the Medina: it is perhaps the +neatest <i>old</i> ecclesiastical structure in the island, and is frequently +attended by her Majesty and Prince Albert when residing at Osborne. +Close by are the Parsonages and <span class="smcap">Padmore House</span>, embosomed in +groves, and commanding an extensive prospect—the nearest object on the +opposite side of the river being the ancient though plain church of +Northwood. Altogether this is a very pleasing rural spot, and to visit +it will make the difference of only a few minutes in diverging from the +regular road.</p> + +<hr /> + + +<h3>WOOTTON-BRIDGE.</h3> + +<p>Here we pass over an inlet of the sea, indifferently called Fishbourne +Creek or Wootton River; the cottages border the road on either side, and +have a remarkably clean and comfortable appearance. There are also a few +good houses: the Parsonage, though rather secluded, enjoys a charming +marine prospect; and <i>Kite-hill</i> will be known by its antique aspect and +screen of lofty firs. But the pride of the place is FERNHILL, a +first-rate seat: the house is built in the light Gothic style, and +stands at the head of an extensive lawn sloping to the water, +interspersed with groups of trees and flourishing plantations.</p> + +<blockquote><p>We shall often see the prospect-tower of Fernhill peering above the +masses of variegated foliage; and indeed the whole has much the air +of a religious structure, enjoying one of those happy localities +which distinguished such retreats of former days. The opposite +banks of the river, or rather lake, are clothed with the finest +oak-woods in the island, feathering from the very water's edge; and +the whole neighbourhood presents the rich appearance of an +extensive forest covering hill and dale. Should therefore the +visitor reach this spot at the favorable concurrence of high water +on a calm sunny day, he will agree with us that the whole forms a +splendid landscape,—<i>rock</i> being in fact the only feature denied +to make it perfect.</p> + +<p>Excellent roads have recently been made (by the proprietor of the +estate,) on the west side of the river, below the bridge: affording +a very pleasant drive; and as they open many delightful sites, will +probably cause a considerable accession of buildings in that +direction.</p> + +<p>At the mouth of the creek on the east side is a large hamlet called +FISHHOUSE, including a dockyard, where several frigates have been +built.</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="smcap">Wootton Common</span> is a mile nearer Newport: and affords an +instance within a few years of a wild tract of gorse and brambles being +profitably converted to tillage and garden. Here too are several +scattered dwellings forming an improving hamlet; and in one of them +(called in courtesy <i>Landscape Cottage</i>,) was produced <i>in all its +stages</i> the present little work, as well as its other kindred +publications.</p> + +<p>About midway between Wootton and Ryde, on the sea side of the road, we +pass the remains of</p> + + +<h3>QUARR ABBEY,</h3> + +<p>The most considerable ecclesiastical establishment ever founded in the +Isle of Wight, which had, like every other part of Great Britain, +previous to the Reformation, its full share of monastic and other +religious institutions. This was among the first settlements of the +Cistercian Order in England, having been built in the 12th century; was +most amply endowed, and had several illustrious persons buried in the +chapel, to whose memory sumptuous monuments were erected; but after its +dissolution, the property was purchased by a merchant of Southampton, +and the sacred edifice <i>reduced for the value of the bare materials</i>.</p> + +<blockquote><p>The merchant's son afterwards sold the estate to the Lord Chief +Justice, Sir Thomas Fleming, with whose descendants it still +remains. Some of the outer walls are still extant, and must have +circumscribed at least 20 acres. A foot-path passes through the +grounds to Ryde, &c.</p> + +<p>Of this once-magnificent establishment little now remains; merely +portions of the appendant offices, which were converted into barns, +&c., for farm-purposes. What was spared in the moment of ruthless +spoliation, lay long buried under heaps of rubbish and weeds—till +a few years since, when one of the occupiers, with laudable zeal, +rescued from total annihilation the few remaining fragments, which +are now open to the view of strangers.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>The other Religious Structures</h3> + +<p>Scattered through the island were ... a Priory at St. Helen's; one +at Appuldurcombe; one at St. Cross, near Newport; and another at +Carisbrooke, vestiges of which may still be traced; together with a +great number of oratories, chantries, chapels, and religious +houses, amounting in the whole to 70 or 80, exclusive of the +regular parish-churches;—and yet scarcely any of these interesting +monuments have survived their reckless doom to ruin and neglect; +not even a spiry fragment sufficiently large or romantic to form a +pleasing subject for the pencil, invite the mind to contemplation, +or aid the poet's retrospective muse.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>BINSTEAD, to which there is a good foot-path from Quarr through the +woods, is about a mile westward of Ryde. Several genteel residences, +mostly built in a pleasing cottage-style, adorned by groups of trees and +shrubs, are scattered over a wide space of broken ground, where +extensive stone-quarries have been worked for many centuries. It is a +favorite walk with the inhabitants of Ryde, across the fields to the +church (not seen from the road), which has lately been considerably +enlarged and improved. The names of the respective villas will be found +in the List of Seats.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>RYDE.</h3> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The best may of seeing this populous town, by those who have +little inclination, or perhaps less time, for perambulation is, +from the Pier, to enquire first for</i> <span class="smcap">Brigstock +Terrace</span>—<i>walk on for about five minutes still +westward—returning, pass by the</i> <span class="smcap">Church</span>, <i>and round the</i> +<span class="smcap">Town-hall</span>, <i>and Market-place</i>, <span class="smcap">St. James's +Chapel</span>, <i>and the Theatre;—look into the</i> <span class="smcap">Arcade</span>, <i>a +little below;—traverse the street nearly opposite the theatre, +which will open the eastern part of the town, where there is a +handsome</i> <span class="smcap">new Church</span>—<i>and the very agreeable Environs in +the direction of Appley and St. John's, which ought to be visited +if time could be spared, going first on the beach, and returning by +the high-road, a circuit of about two miles.</i></p></blockquote> + +<hr /> +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_6lg.jpg" id="illu_6lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_6sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 399px; border: 0" alt="RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p> + +<p>Ryde now ranks the first town in the island for the number of its +elegant <i>modern</i> erections, both public and private; and if building +should be carried on with an equal degree of spirit for a few years +more, it will also be considerably the most populous. It occupies two +sides of a lofty hill, falling with a regular descent to the sea on the +north, opposite Portsmouth, from which it is about five miles across. +This short passage, from its perfect safety and general convenience, +proves a great local advantage, being performed several times a-day by +superior steam-vessels in about half an hour. But besides these +established means of conveyance, large-sized wherries (most excellent +sea-boats,) are in constant attendance to take parties across on +moderate terms, or for hire by the day upon any aquatic trip, even to +Brighton.</p> + +<p>The town used formerly to be distinguished into Upper and Lower Ryde, +from having several fields between, but now it is only the difference of +position which calls for any term of distinction; for where the green +meadows then formed the separation, is now the most closely built upon; +and at the beginning of this century, Yelf's Hotel stood a new and +isolated object.</p> + +<p>The principal streets are very open, clean, and well-paved; regularly +disposed, most of them crossing each other nearly at right angles. +Several of the handsomest run parallel almost in a direct line to the +beach, thus affording the very desirable advantage of an interesting +sea-view.</p> + +<hr /> + + +<p>THE PIER being the first object to interest a stranger, and having +contributed more than anything else to the advancement of the town, is +well entitled to priority of notice.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Up to the year 1814, when it was constructed by a company in +subscription shares of £.50 each, landing or embarking was rendered +generally a miserable task, except during very favorable weather, +at the moment of high tide. The practice then was, to cram the +passengers promiscuously into a common luggage-cart, till it was +drawn out upon the almost level sands sufficiently far for a large +wherry to float alongside, into which they were then transferred, +and conveyed to the sailing-packet, perhaps lying off at some +considerable distance. The reader will readily believe that this +united cart and boat process of reaching the vessel or shore could +not be very inviting at the best of times; but it was really +terrific to weak and timid persons during the concurrence of a +heavy rain, and the tide perhaps at its lowest ebb!—to say nothing +of the horrors of a dark and squally night.</p> + +<p>The length of the Pier is now nearly half a mile (being double the +extent it was originally), having had 500 feet added in the year +1824: the same augmentation again in 1833; and in 1842 it received +the crowning addition of a most spacious and well constructed +<span class="smcap">Head</span>, which was rendered everyway more convenient for +passengers landing or embarking. This last improvement must afford +a most delightful accommodation for the gentry who prefer the pier +for their usual promenade; and where, from the great extent it +stretches out into the open sea, those invalids who are precluded +from exercise, may more conveniently enjoy the invigorating +sea-breeze. It is firmly constructed of timber: has four or five +landing-places at different distances to suit the state of the +tide: a strong railing on each side; and is furnished with several +open and covered seats.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS</i>.</h3> + +<p>The TOWN-HALL and <span class="smcap">Market-house</span> affords the best proof of the +public spirit of the inhabitants of Hyde in regard to local +improvements: for this handsome edifice is on a scale to accommodate +three or four times the present population. It was first opened in the +year 1831: and the commissioners for improving the town endeavoured to +establish a permanent market for cattle, &c., to be held in the large +open space in front, but the attempt proved abortive—Newport lying so +much more conveniently for the general resort of agriculturists and +tradesmen from every quarter of the island.—It is remarkable, however, +considering the spirit of the inhabitants for public improvements, that +it should have been left to the year 1840, before the town was lighted +with gas!</p> + +<p>The <span class="smcap">Arcade</span> is an elegant piece of architecture, though it does +not make that imposing figure of its exterior, which the visitor would +expect, when previously told that it cost at least £10,000. It contains +14 shops, and a very large room for the exhibition and sale of works of +art: every portion being finished in the best style of workmanship.</p> + +<blockquote><p>This bold undertaking for a private individual, we are sorry to +say, has not yet realized a remunerating return. The mistake seems +to have been in fixing upon a site which had no local advantages to +recommend it for a fashionable promenade; nor likely ever to become +a much-frequented thoroughfare, popular and busy. Moreover, the +tradesmen generally find it more to their advantage to engage +respectable houses in the best streets, where they can profitably +let lodgings, and make a much more attractive exhibition of their +goods. These remarks will also serve to explain, why comparatively +so few persons avail themselves of the extensive accommodation +which the Market-house affords.</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="smcap">Brigstock Terrace</span> is a fine range of first-rate houses built +according to a very judicious, uniform design, furnished by the late Mr. +J. Sanderson. They command a beautiful marine prospect, as they stand at +the head of a sloping lawn-like field, interspersed with several oaks +and elms: indeed the terrace is the most conspicuous part of Ryde when +viewed from the sea.</p> + +<p>On the west side of the town too is a very spacious square, comprising a +great variety of tastefully-embellished mansions; indeed in every +direction a number of elegant houses are constructing,—tenants being +found for most of them even before they are completed.</p> + +<blockquote><p>A very few years ago it was quite an easy task to point out by +distinctive marks all the most important houses—it was only to +name <i>Westmont</i>, and the two unobtrusive villas of the Duke of +Buckingham and Earl Spencer. The stranger could then have no +difficulty in discriminating these: but now, to give a List of all +the residences that are entitled to notice with an equal share of +pretensions, however judiciously described, would prove perfectly +futile, and only calculated to mislead the stranger.</p></blockquote> + +<p>CHURCHES and other public places of divine worship.—These of course +increase with the population; for only as late as the year 1827, the old +chapel, now distinguished by its graceful spire (and seen at the back of +the terrace), was so inadequate in its accommodations, as to require +being considerably enlarged: and in the same year another was commenced +as a private speculation by Hughes Hughes, esq., this is a long, low +edifice, remarkable for its neat interior: a third has since been +erected on the eastern side of the town, of a handsome design both +inside and out, and very conspicuous from its open situation and lofty +spire:—all three being episcopalian chapels of ease to Newchurch. The +Independents, Wesleyans, and Primitive-methodists have also their +respective chapels, and one for Catholic worship has been lately built, +of the most elaborate style of architecture, especially the interior.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The Family Hotels, Inns, &c.</span>—Of these there are several, of +various ranks, some of them vying in splendor and extent of +accommodation with the best in the county (see the List). The +lodging-houses are of course very numerous, and in every grade, from the +humble <i>jessamy</i> or <i>myrtle</i> cottage at 20 or 30 shillings per week, to +the lordly mansion at as many guineas.</p> + +<p>During the latter summer months, the theatre is usually opened by a +talented company of comedians. The shops are generally very imposingly +fitted-up and well stocked: and in the literary and fancy lines are +several excellent establishments—news-rooms, circulating-libraries, +bazaars, &c.</p> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote> +<h3><i>Aquatic Amusements, &c. at Ryde.</i></h3> + +<p>THE ROYAL VICTORIA YACHT-CLUB, established in 1845, numbers amongst +its members many gentlemen of the highest rank, and owners of as +fine yachts as any in the world. Their Club-house is a handsome and +commodious building on the beach west of the Pier; and they have an +annual Regatta in the latter part of the summer, when several +pieces of plate, etc., are sailed for by the vessels of this and +other clubs. There is also a <span class="smcap">Town Regatta</span> held about the +same time, for the purpose of giving encouragement to the skilful +and deserving watermen: the sailing matches being between the +wherries of the place, which are of a large size, and esteemed by +nautical men to be the finest sea-boats in the kingdom: and as the +race is confined to a circuit which can be distinctly seen from the +whole of the Pier, there is as much interest excited as if the +prizes were contested between larger craft. Rowing-matches also +take place; good bands attend—and the diversions of the day +usually end with a splendid display of fireworks, a dinner, or a +ball. In short, nothing can exceed the gaiety of the scene, when +the weather is at all fine: as it is made the occasion of a general +festivity by the inhabitants—and resorted to as a holiday by great +numbers from Newport, and the eastern parts of the island.</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="smcap">The Shore</span> presents, when the tide is at its lowest ebb, a wide +expanse of sand, stretching for miles both eastward and westward of the +Pier, preserving upon an average the breadth of a mile: here and there +interspersed with ledges of rock, and the banks beautifully feathered +with groves and shrubberies. In some parts the sand has accumulated over +the mud in sufficient quantity to bear wheel-carriages (which is the +case near the Pier): and is found to be gradually increasing both in +depth and extent. The best time to take a walk upon the shore is +directly after the tide has begun to ebb,—for the sand is then firm and +cool to the feet; but after a few hours' powerful sun in calm weather, +it is rendered sufficiently hot to give the flowing sea almost the +temperature of a warm bath, on which account the bathing here is +preferred by many parties to a bolder shore.</p> + +<blockquote><p>That part called the <span class="smcap">Duver</span> (now built on,) was remarkable +as having been chosen for interring the crew of the Royal George, a +ship of 108 guns, which sank at Spithead on August 29th, 1782, by a +sudden squall, while undergoing a careening of her bottom, when +nearly 1000 persons perished.</p></blockquote> + +<p>Near the Pier are the bathing-machines, well attended, and in full +operation; together with hot, tepid, and other baths for invalids.</p> + +<blockquote><p>THE PROSPECT.—As the <i>amenity</i> of every situation depends, we +consider, greatly on the range and beauty of the view which it +commands, we here give a faint sketch of the one obtained from Ryde +and its neighbourhood: by which, however imperfect, it will be seen +by the reader, that few prospects in England can surpass this, +perhaps even in point of pleasing composition—but certainly not as +<i>a perpetual source of the most amusing observation</i>.</p> + +<p>The foreground of the Pier generally presents a most animated +picture,—crowded with promenading fashionables; and surrounded by +numerous wherries, steam-packets, and other craft, at anchor or +gaily sailing about; a busy scene which forms a striking contrast +to the quiet sylvan charms of the home-coast extending many miles +east and west, and embellished by several delightful villas and +other marine residences, among which are Osborne Palace (indicated +by a lofty prospect-tower),—and Norris Castle, just beyond. We +have the Solent Channel seen from here to peculiar advantage,—on +the one hand contracting to the appearance of a noble river, and on +the other expanding and uniting with the open sea. The far-famed +anchorage of Spithead occupies the centre, with St. Helen's to the +eastward, for ships of war; and westward, the Motherbank and +Stokes's Bay, for merchantmen and colliers; hourly altering their +position with the changing tides, and their number as suddenly +increased or diminished with every adverse or propitious breeze.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Majestic o'er the sparkling tide,</div> +<div class="i2">See the tall vessel sail,</div> +<div>With swelling winds, in shadowy pride,</div> +<div class="i2">A swan before the gale!"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The eye is soon caught by a splendid range of houses called +Anglesea Villa, on the opposite nearest shore, contiguous to +Monkton Fort; and is thence carried to immense mass of brick +buildings that form the grand naval hospital of Haslar, with the +town of Gosport in its rear; opposite which are the celebrated +fortifications of Portsmouth, with its noble harbour affording calm +security to the maritime glory of England:—Southsea Castle stands +a little to the eastward, and beyond that is the low level of +Hayling Island, where several handsome houses have recently been +built.</p> + +<p>The line of Portsdown hills, on one of which is Nelson's monumental +pillar, usually bounds the view to the north; but in clear weather +our range of perspective embraces a portion of the South Downs +which is crossed by the London road near Petersfield: and on the +left, the beautiful retiring banks of Southampton Water to the town +to itself, backed by the woodland heights of the New Forest;—while +to the right it extends to the spire of Chichester Cathedral; but +with the aid of a glass even to Beachy-head, which appears in the +east like a faint cloud upon the horizon of the sea.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>THE ENVIRONS OF RYDE</h3> + +<p>May be characterized as being beautifully rural, enlivened by peeps or +open prospects of the sea: for this is the best wooded quarter of the +island, adorned with several charming seats and villas, and intersected +by good roads.</p> + +<blockquote><p>But perhaps it ought to be here explained to the stranger, that by +<i>good</i> roads, in the Isle of Wight, is only meant that they are +kept in tolerably good order: not that they are level, or even +gently undulating: for the very charm of the island consists in its +sudden alternation of hill and dale, producing a constant change of +scenery: one moment you may be enclosed in a sylvan theatre; and +the next minute stand on the brow of a hill, sufficiently lofty to +command an interminable panoramic prospect of land and sea.</p></blockquote> + +<p>We will first conduct our friends along the shore <i>eastward</i> of the +town, for the distance of two or three miles. The principal objects to +the westward have been already noticed (p. 41, &c.)</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Appley</span> (about half a mile,) is a marine villa celebrated for +its amenity: hence an excellent road to St. John's, where several very +eligible sites for building on are to be disposed of: and a neat little +church has recently been erected.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">St. Clare</span>, another delightful residence: the house built in the +castellated style: and the pleasure-grounds and very extensive gardens, +truly exquisite.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Puckpool</span>, a sequestered Swiss Cottage.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Spring-vale</span>, a pretty hamlet composed of lodging-houses.—A +carriage-road hence by the back of St. Clare.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sea-view</span> (two miles), another pleasant hamlet, containing +several lodging-houses: and having near it the beautiful villas of +<span class="smcap">Sea-field</span>, <span class="smcap">Fairy-hill</span>, <span class="smcap">Sea-grove</span>, &c. A road +hence to Nettlestone Green.</p> + +<p>The grounds of the Priory extend eastward for about a mile: the sandy +beach the whole of the distance is remarkably fine.</p> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>From the above it is apparent, that a Party may have a very +pleasant saunter just as far as may prove agreeable, according to +their ability for walking; as there is a choice of roads by which +to return, thus making a circuit of any extent they like.</i></p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>We now start by the regular carriage-road for the rocky coast (commonly +called the Back of the island), and first reach a hamlet on the rise of +the next hill, named <span class="smcap">Oak-field</span>, and then ...</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">St</span>. JOHN's, a first-rate seat,—mansion plain, but admirably +situated for prospect, and screened by beautiful wood, as will appear +in the road making several sudden turns, over-arched by lofty trees, +especially the silver fir. Shortly the tower of St. Clare appears on our +left: <span class="smcap">Westridge</span> in a valley on the right; and several other +minor seats are successively passed,—some partially seen through the +woods and shrubberies, and others quite secluded.</p> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> From the hamlet called <i>Nettlestone Green</i> (about two miles from +Ryde,) a carriage-road leads down to Sea-view, by which the party +may on another occasion return on the beach to Ryde, passing the +back of St. Clare.</p></blockquote> + +<p>THE PRIORY is three miles from Ryde: it takes its name from having been +the site of an ancient monastic cell—is a spacious, plain mansion, and +ranks among the finest seats in the island: here too, much of the wood +is uncommonly fine, notwithstanding its exposure to the sea-air. +Arriving at ...</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">St</span>. HELEN's GREEN,</p> + +<p>We are presented with a beautiful view of the Peninsula of Bembridge, +Brading Haven, and the British Channel. The houses are mostly scattered +round a large verdant square (which gives the name): and a spacious +building, to answer the purposes both of a parish school and chapel, has +been lately supplied by the liberality of a resident gentleman. But the +chief object of curiosity here is <span class="smcap">the old Church-tower</span>, +<i>standing now at the water's edge</i>, and still struggling against the +further "encroachment of the sea," which in the year 1719, was such as +to oblige the parishioners to build another place of worship in a more +secure situation: this we passed near the Priory. The old tower was +strengthened with a thick facing of brick-work, and painted white; for +it was required to be preserved as a landmark to ships entering the +roadsted. There is something extremely tranquil and pleasing in the +whole of the scene,—and though the composition is simple, forms an +excellent subject for a sketch.</p> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> The Party may either cross the ferry with their vehicle to +Bembridge—for there is a good horse-boat in attendance, and drive +round Yaverland and Brading; or they may go to the latter place at +once; returning over the downs to Ashey Sea-mark, which affords an +almost unrivaled prospect,—and hence descend towards Ryde, making +altogether a charming circuit of about sixteen miles.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>BRADING HAVEN</h3> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_7lg.jpg" id="illu_7lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_7sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 434px; border: 0" alt="BRADING HAVEN" /><br />BRADING HAVEN, <i>As viewed from Bembridge Mill looking +across to the Town of Brading, Nunwell, &c.</i> ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p> + +<p>Exhibits during high water the beautiful appearance of an extensive +lake: but at the recess of the tide, a mere waste of sand and ooze, +comprehending above 800 acres.</p> + +<blockquote><p>As the sea comes through a very narrow inlet at St. Helen's, +several unsuccessful attempts have been made to recover from its +usurpation so valuable a tract of land:—in 1630 the famous Sir H. +Middleton was engaged, and indeed succeeded for a short time, by +means of a bank of peculiar construction. But the sea brought up so +much sand, ooze, and weeds, as to choke up the passage for the +discharge of the fresh water, which accumulating, in a wet season +and a spring-tide, made an irreparable breach, and thus ended an +experiment which <i>then</i> cost altogether about £7000. "And after +all, the nature of the ground did not answer the expectations of +the undertakers; for though that part adjoining Brading proved +tolerably good, nearly one-half of it was found to be a light +running sand." But it should be observed, that previous to the +above attempt, several of the rich meadows contiguous to the haven +were at different times taken in.</p> + +<p>One circumstance was very remarkable: namely, <span class="smcap">a well</span>, +cased with stone, was discovered near the middle of the haven;—an +incontestible evidence, that at some remote period, the spot was in +a very different condition.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>To the very remarkable <span class="smcap">change</span> which appears (by the +discovery of a well,) to have taken place in the condition of the +haven—and the threatened existence of St. Helen's Church, from the +"encroachment of the sea,"—we beg to call the attention of our +more reflecting readers. History and tradition are silent as to the +cause; and the popular opinion of the present day briefly dismisses +the question by ascribing it to an increased elevation of the sea. +But this hypothesis is not supported by the appearance of the coast +immediately to the westward of the haven, where some creeks or +inlets <i>have become dry</i>; a circumstance which induced the Rev. P. +Wyndham, who wrote almost the first intelligent Guide to the +island, to conclude that there actually had been a secession of +tides in this quarter; yet, singular enough, he makes no allusion +either to the haven or the church. Now as there is really no +evidence whatever in the neighbourhood that would lead us to +suppose in the slightest degree, that the sea has encroached upon +the land <i>by its gaining a higher</i> <span class="smcap">general</span> <i>level</i> (an +idea deprecated by many eminent geologists), we must take the +alternative in accounting for the phenomenon, and infer that the +land of the haven must have <span class="smcap">sunk</span> at some very distant +period, and that more recently, the same fate attended the +foundations of the church, which certainly could not have been +originally built so very close to the water's edge, as to be +constantly enveloped in sea-foam during every fresh breeze from the +east.</p> + +<p>Analagous to the above mutation in the state of the land, is the +following singular fact related by Sir Rd. Worsley, of +Appuldurcombe, who, living as it were on the spot, was not likely +to be imposed upon. The reader is to picture to himself three very +high downs standing nearly in a line,—St. Catharine's, Week, and +Shanklin: the latter, when Sir Richard wrote the account in 1781, +he guessed to be about 100 feet higher than Week Down, but which +"was barely visible" over the latter from St. Catharine's, in the +younger days of many of the old inhabitants of Chale, and who had +also been told by their fathers that at one time Shanklin could be +seen only from the top of the beacon on St. Catharine's. "This +testimony, if allowed," says the worthy baronet, "argues either a +sinking of the intermediate down, or a rising of one of the other +hills, the causes of which are left for philosophical +investigation:" and so with respect to the haven and the church, we +leave it as a curious question to amuse our scientific +friends—whether it is the sea that has risen, or the land which +has subsided?</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>BEMBRIDGE.</h3> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>This is a peninsula about three miles long by one broad, +terminating abruptly on the sea-side in a range of</i> <span class="smcap">sublime +chalk precipices</span>. <i>The part easily accessible to strangers is +White-cliff Bay, two miles from the ferry.</i></p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p>On account of the inconvenient situation of Bembridge as to the +usual <i>routes</i>, it is not so much visited as Freshwater, whose +precipices are on rather a grander scale, and the most celebrated +in Great Britain of this magnificent species of coast scenery. For +this reason, and also as the cliffs of both places agree almost +precisely in their geological character (for they are but the +termini of the same chain of hills), we shall merge the <i>general</i> +description of the former in that of the latter; but we would +advise the stranger who may sojourn at Ryde, by all means to visit +Bembridge, if he should decline going to Freshwater; and if in a +good boat on a fine day, so much the better,—he will be well +gratified with the <i>brilliant</i> spectacle which these noble "<i>white +cliffs of Albion</i>" present.</p></blockquote> + +<p>Before the year 1830, Bembridge seemed to be shut out from intercourse +with the world: it was very rarely visited; possessed no facilities of +communication; and had no charms to call the traveller aside from the +routine track. But owing to the <span class="smcap">wise</span> and spirited exertions of +a resident gentleman, it was soon rendered a populous village.</p> + +<p>Among the first improvements was the erection (by public subscription) +of a handsome little church for the accommodation of the inhabitants, +who before had no place of episcopalian worship nearer than Brading: the +next consideration was the establishment of a horse-boat, and other +regular means of passage across the haven:—land was sold off on +eligible terms for building; several tasty villas were soon erected, and +ample shrubberies formed:—new roads were projected, the old ones +widened and repaired, and travelling altogether rendered more agreeable. +A respectable Hotel was also built at the same time, near the beach.</p> + +<p>The face of the country about Bembridge is pleasant enough, being +agreeably checquered by grove and meadow, cultivation and open +pasturage: but it is <span class="smcap">the surrounding prospect</span> which yields the +chief pleasure. The situation of the Church and other principal +buildings, is sufficiently evident to the visitor from St. Helen's, or +as he crosses the ferry.</p> + +<p>The chalk precipices of Bembridge are named <i>the Culvers</i>, from the +circumstance it is said, of their having been the haunt of immense +numbers of wild pigeons; and they are now, as has been already mentioned +(p. 21), resorted to in the summer months by prodigious flights of +various sea-fowl. There is a small cavern called <span class="smcap">Hermit's Hole</span> +in the face of the cliff, about thirty feet from the top; the descent to +it however is steep and narrow, and it is comparatively but seldom +visited.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bembridge Ledge</span> is a dangerous reef of rocks, stretching out +into the sea a considerable distance: a floating beacon-light called +"the Nab" is always moored within a short distance, to warn ships of +their position.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>YAVERLAND. This is a straggling village near the sea-shore, between +Brading and Sandown Fort. The little parish-church and the adjoining +mansion (now converted into a farm house,) exhibit a venerable +appearance, and being surrounded by groves of magnificent elms, the +whole presents one of the prettiest <i>rural</i> scenes in the island; and to +the amateur of sketching, it must prove a treat. The Parsonage too will +be admired for its appropriate character and pleasant +situation.—Passing a few scattered cottages, our road will be on the +pebbly beach to ...</p> + +<p class="center">SANDOWN,</p> + +<p>Altogether an extensive village, containing several new houses built +near the sea-shore, intended for letting as summer lodgings: some of +them are large and splendidly furnished: and enjoy a beautiful view of +the British Channel, the dazzling cliffs of Bembridge, and the range of +coast for two or three miles in the direction of Shanklin. There is a +church, newly erected in the upper part of the village: and a neat inn +on the beach.</p> + +<p>Midway between Sandown and Shanklin we pass through <span class="smcap">Lake</span>, a +pretty hamlet, having a few cottages that let occasionally for lodgings +during the summer months.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>BRADING</h3> + +<p>Consists of one long, ancient street (through which is the chief +thoroughfare from Ryde to Shanklin and the Undercliff,) and a few good +houses recently built on the outskirts: it lies about half a mile from +the haven; and still retains some of the privileges of an ancient +borough. The Church is considered the oldest in the island; as it was +certainly in existence early in the eighth century, though some date its +erection so high as the sixth, and contend that the first islanders +converted to Christianity were here baptized. On account of its +antiquity, the numerous relics which it contains, together with the many +well written inscriptions to be found on the tombstones in the cemetery +(the most noted of which perhaps is the one erected to the memory of +"Little Jane,") it is very frequently visited by parties making the +southern tour. The surrounding country too is agreeably varied by wood +and water, arable and pasture, and a very fine outline of hill and dale.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>To return to Ryde or Newport over the downs from Brading, will be found +exceedingly interesting to those strangers who delight in the +contemplation of grand prospects, and a most fertile and well +cultivated country:—having no objection at the same time to a <i>hilly</i> +road as the price of their enjoyment, and which <i>we</i> call the most +beautiful in the island.</p> + +<blockquote><p>But as artists are often enraptured with passages of scenery that +to others prove comparatively uninteresting, we subjoin a sketch by +Sir <span class="smcap">H. Englefield</span>, showing the deep interest and pleasure +the surrounding landscapes are capable of affording:—</p> + +<p>"To enjoy in all its glory, the complete view of the northern +tract, which in detail presents so many separate beauties, we must +ascend the chalk range that rises immediately from the woods of +Nunwell. When the weather is clear, it is impossible to describe +the magnificent scene which these hills command, from Brading +Downs, by Ashey Sea-mark, and soon quite to Arreton chalk-pit.</p> + +<p>"To the <i>north</i>, the woodlands form an almost continued velvet +carpet of near 10,000 acres, broken only by small farms, whose +thatched buildings relieve the deep tints of the forests. The +Wootton River winds beautifully among them, and beyond the whole +the Solent Sea spreads its waters, which in clear weather is tinged +with an azure more deep and beautiful than any I ever saw. The +Hampshire land rises in a succession of hills quite lost at length +in blue vapour. The inland view to the <i>south</i> is far from +destitute of beauty, though less striking than the northern scene. +The vale between the chalk range and the southern hills is seen in +its full extent: and the southern hills themselves rise to a +majestic height. To the <i>eastward</i> the sea is again visible over +the low lands of Sandown, and by its open expanse affords a fine +contrast to the Solent Channel.</p> + +<p>"The nearer objects on the southern slope are also very +interesting: Knighton House, with its venerable grey fronts mantled +with luxuriant ivy, and bosomed in the richest groves, is as +beautiful at a distance, as it is interesting on a nearer approach. +Arreton is also surrounded with trees, which group happily with the +pretty church and an old mansion now converted into a farm: and +from the western end of the downs, the country about Newport and +Carisbrooke is seen to great advantage. <i>Such is the faint outline +of a scene, which, in richness of tints, and variety of objects, +surpasses anything I ever saw.</i>"</p> + +<p><i>Note.</i>—Since this was written, Knighton House has been pulled +down.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>Objects between Brading and Newport.</i></h3> + +<p>Our course will be for the first three miles due west. On the north side +is NUNWELL, the oldest seat in the island, having been awarded by +William the Conqueror to the ancestors of Sir William Oglander, the +present proprietor. Noble specimens of every kind of forest-tree are to +be found in the park: particularly oaks, several of which are many +centuries old, the family having long employed every possible means of +preserving these venerable chiefs of the grove. The house (a large, +plain building,) stands at the foot of the down, and therefore is not +seen from the road: but the surrounding park, woods, and farms of the +estate, spread before the eye in a most beautiful style ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"With swelling slopes and groves of every green."</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>ASHEY SEA-MARK is very conspicuously seen, being seated on a high down, +three miles from Brading, four from Ryde, and five from Newport: it is a +perfectly plain, triangular object, erected in the middle of the last +century to assist pilots in navigating St. Helen's anchorage.</p> + +<p>On the south side of the down appears the pretty village of NEWCHURCH, +in the direct road from Ryde to Godshill, &c. The situation of the +Church is rather romantic, being nearly on the edge of a remarkably +steep sand-cliff, through which the road is cut, feathered with +brushwood and several overhanging trees.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>If the tourist be returning to Newport, he will pass through the long +village of ARRETON, whose church stands at the foot of the down of that +name: it is of considerable antiquity,—and though its style of +architecture is certainly heavy, is upon the whole both picturesque and +singular. Its chief internal decoration is a beautiful mausoleum to the +memory of Sir Leonard W. Holmes, bart.: and in the churchyard is buried +the young woman celebrated for her piety in the popular tract of "the +Dairyman's Daughter."</p> + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h2>THE ROMANTIC SCENERY</h2> + +<h3>OF THE ISLAND,</h3> + +<h3>EXHIBITED ALONG THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST, FROM</h3> + +<h3>SHANKLIN TO BLACKGANG CHINE.</h3> + + +<hr /> + +<h3>SHANKLIN.</h3> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <span class="smcap">The Chine</span>, <i>a beautiful woody ravine in the sea-cliffs, +is the great object of attraction; inquire the road to the beach, +and you will be conducted through the scene back to the +village;—of the latter, a, pretty good idea may be formed in +passing through it to Bonchurch,</i></p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>Here we enter upon the romantic scenery of the island. The village is +most delightfully rural, and though it has several roomy lodging-houses, +and two large hotels, still, from the bold variety of the ground, and +the many shrubberies and clumps of fine elm and ash trees with which it +is adorned, the dwellings are so hid from one another, that in almost +every point of view it has the pleasing appearance of being but a small +quiet hamlet. Except in the most exposed parts, vegetation flourishes +with uncommon luxuriance,—even choice exotics: we would point to the +Parsonage as an instance, enveloped in myrtles that stand the rigors of +winter without protection: indeed it may well be said, that almost every +cottage in this beautiful spot is surrounded ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"With fragrant turf, and flowers as wild and fair,</div> +<div>As ever dressed a bank, or scented summer air."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>But the crowning feature from which it derives its celebrity as one of +the chief curiosities of the island, is THE CHINE—a term that certainly +does not convey to a stranger any idea of the scene: it is a provincial +expression for a ravine or cleft in the cliffs of the shore, and of +which there are several along the coast, possessing a beauty or +sublimity that renders them highly interesting.</p> + +<p>Having reached the beach, the visitor should take a short walk under the +towering sandrock precipices which range to the right and left for +several miles, before he enters the Chine. Nowhere on the coast of the +island is there a more charming stretch of shore,—for the sand is of a +cool dark color, <i>firm enough for wheel-carriages and horses to be used +by invalids</i>, and therefore proves equally alluring to the aged as to +the young, to enjoy salubrious exercise and recreation; it extends +northward to Sandown—about two miles; its monotony being broken by +occasional pools of sea-water, and a sprinkling of weed-covered rocks.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>THE CHINE.</h3> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_8lg.jpg" id="illu_8lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_8sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 465px; border: 0" alt="SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br />SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT. (<i>Descent to the Beach.</i>)</a></p> + +<p>At the foot of the cliff stands a fisherman's cottage, which may attract +our attention from its picturesque situation.</p> + +<p>The first view of the Chine from the beach is not the most favorable: as +the eye of the spectator is much too low to comprehend all the deep and +bold windings of the chasm, which contribute so essentially to its +romantic effect: but, gradually ascending by a narrow path, we soon open +a wider view, and should then pause, to contemplate it on every side. We +see suspended on the opposite slope, the humble ale house, resting</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Beneath an aged oak's embowering shade."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Just below it, a pretty rose-mantled cottage: and not far off, the gable +end of a gentleman's villa, so prominently seated near the margin of the +precipice, as to completely overlook the awful abyss. This view is +altogether picturesque and animated: for the foreground is exceedingly +bold,—and the prospect of Sandown Bay and the sublime cliffs of +Bembridge, give wonderful brilliancy and interest to the perspective.</p> + +<p>As we advance, the scene becomes increasingly romantic, especially when +we are about half-way through it: for the deep sides of the chasm so +fold into one another as to exclude all prospect, and yet afford a great +diversity of coloring, light, and shade; the one side being beautifully +hung with indigenous trees or shrubs, and the uncovered portions of the +cliff of a glowing tint; while the opposite side presents the contrast +of a sombre hue, and is generally too steep to admit of much vegetation +ever gaining a permanent footing. Nor is the most critical eye annoyed +by the indications of unnecessary artificial improvements—which so +often tend to destroy the delightful robe of simplicity that such scenes +of Nature's creation wear, <i>when they are fortunate enough to escape the +infliction of man's refinements</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Still slowly climb the many-winding way,</div> +<div>And frequent turn to linger as you go."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>We now approach the waterfall, at the <span class="smcap">Head of the Chine</span>; and +should there have been lately any heavy rains, it forms a noble cascade +of about 30 feet; but after a continuance of dry weather, it is reduced +to a scanty rill.</p> + +<p>Ascending by a rude path cut in the side of the cliff, we pass through a +rustic wicket, and take our leave of this celebrated scene, which has no +doubt been formed by the slow operation of the streamlet in the course +of many ages, insignificant as it may appear to a casual visitor in the +middle of summer. The Chine of Blackgang is indebted for its origin to a +similar cause: and this of Shanklin would have gone on rapidly +increasing, had not the proprietor resorted to the aid of masonry, +draining, piling, &c. to arrest in some measure its further progress +towards the village.—See p. 33 of the "Vectis Scenery" for a full +account of the formation of the Chines.</p> + +<p>The sides of this chasm are about 200 feet in perpendicular height, and +perhaps 300 wide at the top, near the beach, gradually diminishing +towards the Head or waterfall, where the sides are perpendicular, and +only a few yards asunder.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The earthy precipices between Shanklin and Luccombe Chines are called +<span class="smcap">Dunnose</span>,—they form the southern termination of Sandown Bay, +which is a beautiful stretch of shore of above five miles in extent, +bounded on the north by the white cliffs of Bembridge.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>As we pursue our tour we can trace the course of the Chine (above the +head), by the freshness and luxuriant growth of the trees that stand on +its narrow banks: and just as we approximate the little parish-church, +pass over a bridge thrown across it—but the streamlet itself is almost +hidden by wild brushwood and aquatic weeds. The spring-head is a little +above the church.</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_9lg.jpg" id="illu_9lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_9sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 431px; border: 0" alt="SHANKLIN CHURCH, I.W." /><br />SHANKLIN CHURCH, I.W. <i>And the Road leading to Luccombe & +the Undercliff</i></a></p> + +<p>The Plate represents the church, and a remarkable portion of the road on +quitting the village for the back of the island; it is seen ascending +circuitously the side of a steep down, between a hanging copse and +several groups of the finest ash trees,—one of which (on the +left-hand,) has long been celebrated for its amplitude and beauty.</p> + +<blockquote><p>It is quite impossible for language to convey more than a faint +idea of the magnificent and interesting prospect which gradually +opens to view as the traveller ascends the mountain ridge: the +British Channel spreads its blue waters as the boundary on the one +side; the greatest portion of the island recedes in the most +charming gradations on the other: and the Solent Channel presents +the animated appearance of a noble river, crowded with ships of +every description; while the opposite coast of Hampshire and Sussex +may be traced more or less distinctly for 70 or 80 miles.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>A series of pasturing downs stretch for several miles nearly parallel +with the sea-coast: of these the nearest is Shanklin—its northern slope +being abruptly broken by a fine range of cliff, composed chiefly of gray +free-stone feathered by hanging woods, and on the edge of this beautiful +precipice stand some very picturesque ruins called ...</p> + +<p class="center">COOKE's CASTLE,</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_10lg.jpg" id="illu_10lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_10sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 423px; border: 0" alt="COOKE's CASTLE." /><br />COOKE's CASTLE. <i>An ancient ruin on the Appuldurcombe +Estate—Isle of Wight.</i></a></p> + +<p>Which being seen from a considerable distance in various directions, and +never before published, appeared to the Artist to well merit a sketch. +Sir Richard Worsley, in his History of the Isle of Wight, states it to +be the "ruin of an ancient castle" (though it has been said that it was +built as an object of view from Appuldurcombe House); but whether +artificial, or really a relic of antiquity, is of little importance, +while it proves so conspicuous an ornament to the scene.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>LUCCOMBE CHINE</h3> + +<p>Is another chasm in the sea-cliffs, similar to Shanklin in its +character, but on a very inferior scale: and therefore is seldom visited +by those in a vehicle who have little time to spare. But many walk from +Shanklin to it, either on the beach (if the tide be ebbing), or by a +foot-path near the edge of the cliffs, the distance being about two +miles: either way is extremely pleasant. A few houses and cottages +scattered about, serve to enliven the scene.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>We now approach a most singular and romantic tract of the south-eastern +coast, dividing the claim of <i>interest</i> even with the sublime scenery at +the west end of the island: we mean ...</p> + +<h3>THE UNDERCLIFF,</h3> + +<p>Which commences at East End, and terminates at Blackgang Chine, an +extent of above eight miles, averaging about one mile's breadth: and +bounded on the land-side by a towering ridge of perpendicular stone +cliffs, or precipitous chalky hills; presenting in many parts the +venerable time-worn appearance of some ancient fortress. Between this +craggy ridge and the sea-cliffs, every spot bears the striking impress +of some violent convulsion, such in fact as would be produced by an +earthquake: but in proportion to the time that shall have elapsed, so +all the more rugged marks of devastation are either obliterated by the +liberal hand of Nature, or converted into positive beauties. Originally +the whole of this tract, or nearly so, was rock resting on a sort of +loose marly foundation: this being perpetually exposed to the +undermining action of the sea at its foot; accelerated in wet seasons +by the marle being rendered soft and yielding,—it is evident that, +sooner or later, such a foundation would give way to the immense +superincumbent pressure, and be attended with all the direful effects of +a real earthquake.</p> + +<p>Most probably other subsidences will yet take place, until more of the +oozy, sliding foundation shall be removed, and its place occupied by a +sufficient quantity of fallen rock, as will secure the stability of the +ground; as we find to be the case for the greater part of this singular +tract, which has certainly been in a state of repose for seven or eight +centuries at least. Fragments of the cliff are indeed frequently +shivered off, but rarely or never attended with any very injurious +consequences: it is those extensive <i>landslips</i> which are alarming, when +many acres of valuable land are completely overturned and laid waste in +a few hours. The huge masses of solid rock thus torn and dashed about, +produce the grandest scenes of terror: but are at the same time the +source of those singular beauties—that variety of fractured cliff and +broken ground, which are the greatest ornaments of this romantic +country.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>EAST END.</h3> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The Tourist ought, if possible, to walk through this very +romantic scene, and if in a vehicle, be upon his guard that the +driver does not hurry him by it, as is often the case.</i></p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>Here, as we have said before, the Undercliff commences: and as soon as +the stranger has nearly compassed the valley of Luccombe, he should +particularly enquire for the spot which is the entrance to this romantic +scene ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Where twines a path in shadow hid,</div> +<div>Round many a rocky pyramid."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The distance is only a mile: the carriage in the mean time may proceed +on to Bonchurch. But should the party decline the walk, they ought at +least to alight, and advance near enough to the edge of the +precipice, to have a view of the interesting scene below; and they must +bear in mind, that though it lies within a few yards of the road, yet +<i>to a person passing by</i>, there is no indication of its being so near.</p> + +<p>The great interest of East End arises partly from its present wild +character, and partly from its being the scene of the latest formidable +landslips that have occurred in the island. In the year 1810, a founder +took place which destroyed about twenty acres of land: this was followed +by another, eight years after, that ruined in one night at least thirty +acres more: at which time above twenty full-grown trees were uprooted, +and several of them completely buried in the awful wreck. It therefore +affords the inquisitive traveller the best opportunity of examining the +cause of the peculiar character of this part of the island.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>BONCHURCH.</h3> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>Formerly this was one of the most romantic scenes in the island, +but has lately been converted into a fashionable village. Amidst a +profusion of new houses, more or less tasty in their style—a +villa, called</i> EAST DENE, <i>and the neighbouring old</i> CHURCH<i>, are +all that will here particularly call the stranger from the +carriage-road.</i></p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>In the year 1834, this beautiful spot was advertised to be sold off in +small lots for building 18 or 20 villas!—a circumstance much regretted +by the admirers of the peculiar scenery of the Undercliff, which was +exhibited here in its utmost perfection. Nearly the whole of the land is +now disposed of; some of the houses were built for the purpose of +letting lodgings; one has been opened as a first-rate Hotel; but the +greater number are private residences,—and certainly it must prove a +most enviable retreat for families or invalids during the winter months. +It is impossible for any spot to be better adapted for a number of +houses being built in a comparatively small compass: for the whole of +the ground is so romantically tossed about by the sportive hand of +Nature,—presenting here a lofty ridge of rocks, there a woody dell +adorned with a purling stream or a limpid pool, that most of the houses +are completely hid from each other's view.</p> + +<blockquote><p>From the bad taste which too generally prevails—we mean the +<i>vanity of glare</i>—the affectation of <i>elegance</i>,—so frequently +carried out at the expense of all propriety, we were not without +apprehension that many of the gentry at Bonchurch would also +neglect the essential rule, that <i>the peculiar character of every +scene demands an</i> APPROPRIATE STYLE <i>in building and decoration</i>; +for it avails little to have ivy-mantled rocks and mossy cliffs, +the sunny knoll and the shady glen, with their groves and +streams,—if the Genius of the spot be not consulted, and HARMONY +made the rule of every innovation and improvement. In a word, it is +too often in building as in dress, that many persons resort to show +and refinement as the surest means of attracting the world's +admiration for their superior taste and rank! But in justice to the +Gentlemen who have located in this fairy-land, we must acknowledge +that they for the most part avoided (as far as was possible), +disturbing the natural beauties of the place, and have studied to +make their happy retreats ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i6">"Smile with charms</div> +<div><span class="smcap">Congenial To the Soil</span>, and all its own:</div> +<div class="i6">For Ornament</div> +<div>When foreign or fantastic, never charmed."</div> +</div></div> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> The reader who may feel an interest on this subject is referred +to pp. 36 and 43 of the "<i>Vectis Scenery</i>."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The most delightful residence at Bonchurch is called <span class="smcap">East Dene</span>: +the beauty of its locality is unrivaled; the exterior of the house in a +chaste style; and the interior fitted-up and furnished at a great +expense in the antique mode of the 16th century.</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_11lg.jpg" id="illu_11lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_11sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 411px; border: 0" alt="THE PARISH CHURCH OF BONCHURCH ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br /><i>THE PARISH CHURCH OF</i> BONCHURCH <i>ISLE OF WIGHT</i></a></p> + +<p>The Tourist should certainly visit the old Church, which stands near the +shore, and not far from the road, though concealed from it by a lofty +ridge of the fallen cliff: it is of simple construction, but beautifully +canopied by a grove of magnificent elms, and is supposed to have been +built in the 11th century,—which is taken as a proof that this part of +the Undercliff was certainly in a state of repose at the time of its +erection; and has undoubtedly remained so ever since. Still, we cannot +question for a moment, but this spot must have been in some previous age +(judging from analogy,) subjected to the same catastrophes which we have +witnessed even in our own time in its immediate neighbourhood at East +End. There is also a new Church, of a neat design, beautifully nestled +amongst the rocks in the higher part of the village.</p> + +<p>As <span class="smcap">Rock</span>, in this part of the island, constitutes the chief +source of picturesque effect, it would be an omission not to point out +two crags which have gained quite a celebrity for their age and beauty: +the first is <i>Hadfield's Look-out</i>, boldly rising from the road; the +other a prominence in the face of the upper range of precipices, called +<i>the Pulpit Rock</i>: the former has generally the appendage of a +flag-staff,—the latter a rude cross, in unison with its name.</p> + +<p>The road through the valley of Bonchurch presents a most enchanting +scene: shaded by noble trees; and edged by bold rocky knolls,—and a +small pellucid lake and stream, beyond which appears a romantic tract of +broken ground and wild brushwood, backed by the venerable grey +land-cliff and the lofty brow of St. Boniface Down. On emerging from +this beautiful spot, we have on our right a genteel residence called ST. +BONIFACE HOUSE, situated close at the foot of the high down which gives +the name; built in a very chaste rural style; and embellished by some +noble trees, and a sparkling rill.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>We now open a general view of the fast-improving town of ...</p> + +<h3>VENTNOR.</h3> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>This is the chief resting-place between Shanklin and Niton. The</i> +<span class="smcap">Church</span>, <i>and the</i> <span class="smcap">Cove</span>, <i>are the most interesting +features</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>Ventnor has risen into importance with a rapidity greater than any other +place in the island: for as late as the year 1830 it numbered but about +half-a-dozen cottages, one hotel, a small inn, and the accompaniment of +a humble grist-mill, so necessary in a <i>retired hamlet</i> as this was +<i>then</i>. But such has since been the eagerness for building, that land +for the purpose which was at that time sold for £100 per acre, soon +advanced to 300 or £400; latterly the price has risen at the rate of 800 +to £1000 per acre for the more eligible sites. And at present there are +three first-rate hotels and several minor inns; well stocked shops in +almost every line of business: and medical men established on the spot. +Several streets of considerable extent are completed, others are rapidly +progressing; and much has also been done in the way of public +improvements, such as paving, lighting, &c. The new Esplanade, on the +beach, cannot fail to prove a delightful convenience both to the +inhabitants and visitors at Ventnor.</p> + +<p>It is greatly indebted for its prosperity to Dr. Clarke's popular +Treatise, to which we have already referred (p. 16,) when speaking of +the climate generally. Its progress was still more accelerated by the +interest which the proprietor of Steephill Castle, John Hambrough, esq., +took in its success, by erecting a handsome church, a large free-school, +parsonage, &c.</p> + +<p>Building being still carried on with undiminished speculation, the +general appearance of the town must be consequently anything but +agreeable—nor has there been the lapse of sufficient time for the +growth of the shrubberies (however genial the climate,) to attain that +size which would afford the relief of even a partial screen. Little +therefore can be particularized under the present <i>changing aspect</i> of +the place.</p> + +<p>Among the buildings which attract attention in entering by the old road, +are the connected range called St. Boniface Terrace, occupying a +commanding situation, and the houses concurring in one general design: +and below, some extensive erections, of rather a novel appearance to the +untraveled eye, being strictly in imitation of the airy and picturesque +style of the Italian villa.</p> + +<p>The somewhat confused appearance of Ventnor is no doubt owing to its +unexpected advance having prevented the adoption of any uniform +ground-plan, as would no doubt have been done could the proprietor of +the land have foreseen the magnitude to which the place was so soon to +extend,—for in this respect a considerable improvement is visible in +the latest-erected part of the town. The most regularly laid-out streets +are near the shore: and one branch-road runs by the edge of the +sea-cliffs for about half a mile towards Bonchurch, thus affording the +houses an uninterrupted view of the sea.</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_12lg.jpg" id="illu_12lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_12sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 448px; border: 0" alt="ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH" /><br />To JOHN HAMBROUGH <i>Esq. of Steephill Castle, in the Isle +of Wight</i>, <i>This view of</i> ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH, <i>erected by him at</i> +VENTNOR, <i>is most respectfully inscribed by His much obliged humble +servant, GEORGE BRANNON.</i></a></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">St. Catharine's Church</span> is a beautiful feature in every +respect, both in its exterior and interior, being the neatest in the +island: and situated as it is on a commanding knoll nearly in the middle +of the town, affords an admirable relief to the whole scene, by +arresting the eye from the scattered glare of the surrounding +slate-roofed and white-walled buildings,—which are almost the universal +character of the houses.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The COVE presents at certain times a very animated and engaging picture: +fishermen preparing for or returning from their voyage; invalids and +other respectable parties sauntering or reclining on the sunny beach: +some reading, others amused in listening to, and watching the curling +waves expire at their feet in spreading foam. The material of the shore +is principally fine shingle, or very small pebbles, among which +particles are frequently picked up, possessing a brilliancy that has +gained for them the title of "Isle of Wight diamonds;" and though they +may be comparatively of inferior value in point of intrinsic +quality,—still, the <i>interest</i> taken in searching for them must prove a +source of the most agreeable employment to those visitors whose health +precludes any exercise of a more active nature.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">St. Boniface Down</span>, which forms a green back-ground to the view, +is also an object of interest (at least with artists or amateurs of +sketching,) that ought not to be passed by unnoticed. It is exceedingly +steep: has a never-failing spring on its lofty summit, and is often +cheerfully sprinkled with sheep, of the South-down breed, safely +nibbling the close herbage on its precipitous side.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Speaking of the down, we should deserve to be censured by those of +our elderly readers who may have been to Ventnor ere it reached the +magnitude of a town, not to inform them, that <i>the then only Hotel</i> +(so beautifully seated close at the foot of the hill,) <i>is no +longer a place of public accommodation</i>; the license has been +transferred. Many were the respectable parties of the olden time +who used to amuse themselves with the attempt to gain the summit of +the down,—sometimes successfully, but more frequently at the +expense of a rather too precipitate descent, to the no small +diversion of their friends who had less daring to make the +experiment. In this age of refinement, such displays of rural +agility would be regarded as "utterly vulgar!" there are however +more circuitous and accessible paths by which we may reach the +eminence, and hence enjoy a most delightful prospect.</p> + +<p>In concluding this brief notice of Ventnor, it would be very unfair +to Dr. Clarke, not to mention the fact, that he was decidedly +opposed to the residences of invalids (with pulmonary consumption) +being accumulated together "<i>in the form of a Town</i>;" he recommends +that a number of <i>detached</i> houses should be built along the +Undercliff, each surrounded with the protection of a garden-wall +and a few trees. But, begging the Doctor's pardon, we heartily +rejoice that his advice could not be acted upon to any considerable +extent (except at Ventnor and Bonchurch); because fortunately the +most eligible and attractive spots in this romantic district are in +the holding of gentlemen who have chosen such for their <i>private</i> +residences: and certainly, if selfishness was ever pardonable, it +is so in this instance; nay, for our part, we really congratulate +the public, that the spirit of exclusiveness so widely exists in +this happy region of the sublime and beautiful. For what a +lamentable transformation it would prove of the natural character +of the scenery, to have many large and often glary houses obtruding +upon the eye in every direction! banishing all the <i>wildest</i> and +most interesting local beauties, for domestic convenience or +fantastic embellishment! Where then would be the attraction to call +the thousands annually to our romantic isle? Where those UNIQUE +LANDSCAPES which now constitute its proudest charm?</p> + +<p>And after all, the Doctor's objection to a residence in town, is +largely compensated for in the case of Ventnor, by the many +advantages afforded to invalids, that could be procured only in a +populous place: such for instance as regular stage-coaches running +to and from Ryde and other places; a good landing-place; +bathing-machines; a post-office and reading-rooms; the location of +several apothecaries and eminent physicians: tradesmen of almost +every description; and the facility of enjoying society in the +dullest winter months.</p></blockquote> + +<p>Westward of Ventnor, we have a sudden and most agreeable transition from +the glare of the town to a quiet picture of rural scenery, broken only +by two or three cottages neatly built in the antique style; this is the +commencement of the property of Mr. Hambrough (of Steephill Castle), +which extends to St. Lawrence, the estate of Earl Yarborough; succeeded +by Old Park; and near Niton, the seats of Mrs. Arnold, Sir W. Gordon, +and Mrs. Vine: altogether a delightful distance of above four miles; +which we hope will long escape any desecration of its beauties by the +operations of building speculators.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>APPULDURCOMBE.</h3> + +<p>This splendid seat, from its proximity to the Undercliff, is most +frequently embraced either in the south-eastern or the continued Tour, +in preference to giving it a separate day: therefore here is perhaps the +best place for its notice, especially as the regular road from Ventnor +to Newport passes close by: and as it is only two miles from the former +town. It is thus described by Sir Richard Worsley, in his "History of +the Isle of Wight:"</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The house is pleasantly situated about seven miles south of the +town of Newport: it has four regular fronts of the Corinthian +order, built of freestone; the pilasters, cornices, ballustrades, +and other ornamental parts are of Portland stone; the roof is +covered with Westmoreland slates. The grand entrance in the east +front is through a hall 54 feet in length by 24 in breadth, adorned +with eight beautiful columns of the Ionic order resembling +porphyry. On this floor are several handsome apartments, containing +many valuable portraits, and other good paintings; the offices are +very commodious, and on the first and attic stories are upwards of +twenty bed-chambers with dressing-rooms. The house was begun by Sir +Robert Worsley, in 1710: and completed by Sir Richard Worsley, who +made considerable additions, and much improved upon the original +design."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Sir Richard spent a great portion of his life in collecting the +paintings and other relics of antiquity which adorn the mansion, and +published a very sumptuous descriptive work, entitled "Museum +Worsleyanum." The Estate descended to the Pelham family by the marriage +of the Baronet's niece to the late Earl Yarborough.</p> + +<p>The park of Appuldurcombe is extensive; and the soil being extremely +rich, supports a great number both of deer and cattle,—the former of +which is nowhere else to be found in the island. At the back of the +mansion rises a lofty hill, whose sides are hung with groves of noble +beech, interspersed with many venerable oaks. On the summit is an +obelisk, originally seventy feet high, built of Cornish granite, to the +memory of Sir Robert Worsley: but of late years it has suffered severely +from the high winds, to the violence of which its elevated position +renders it so exposed. From almost every part of this down we gain the +most splendid views; below, is the rich vale of Arreton, Newchurch, and +Godshill: beyond is seen on the north, Portsmouth and the neighbouring +anchorages, with the wooded heights above Southampton Water; eastward +are the beautiful shores of Sandown Bay; to the west the prospect is +continued far beyond the white cliffs of Freshwater, by the coasts of +Hants and Dorset: and on the south expands the azure horizon of the +boundless ocean.</p> + +<p>N.B. Strangers desirous of visiting Appuldurcombe, must provide +themselves with tickets at the office of the stewards, Messrs. Sewell, +Solicitors, Newport: the days allowed are Tuesdays and Fridays, between +the hours of 11 and 4 o'clock.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>GODSHILL,</h3> + +<p>Bordering on Appuldurcombe Park, is a populous village, chiefly +remarkable for the very picturesque situation of the Church, a large and +venerable pile, which stands upon a steep hill in the centre of the +village,—commanding such an extensive and beautiful prospect as will of +itself repay the tourist for the trouble of ascending. The interior of +the church is enriched by several interesting monuments, ancient and +modern, in memory of the various possessors of the Appuldurcombe +estates,—the most sumptuous being that to Sir J. Leigh and his lady, +whose marble effigies are canopied by a beautifully ornamented arch; and +the massive tomb of Sir Richard Worsley, which occupies the south +transept, where a colored window is placed to give it greater +effect.—Godshill has a small country inn called the Griffin.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The distance from Ventnor to Godshill is four miles:—and thence to +Newport, six: the country is well-cultivated, but presents no object to +call for particular notice: we pass the hamlet of <span class="smcap">Rookley</span>: and +the villas of <span class="smcap">Pidford</span> and <span class="smcap">Standen</span>.</p> + +<p>WHITWELL is a very retired village, winding between Godshill and Niton: +and having a church of some antiquity.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>Returned to the Undercliff, the next place in our route which boasts of +superior scenic beauty is ...</p> + +<h3>STEEPHILL,</h3> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_13lg.jpg" id="illu_13lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_13sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 400px; border: 0" alt="STEEPHILL, UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />STEEPHILL, UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p> + +<p>Where a splendid CASTLE was erected in the year 1833, by J. Hambrough, +esq. (thence often called after his name), on a broad terrace of rock +that rises almost perpendicularly from the present road: and here it may +not be quite uninteresting to state—at least to some of our friends who +used to visit the island years ago, that the castle occupies the very +site of the once-noted Cottage of the late Earl Dysart, and which was +for many years that nobleman's favorite retreat. Steephill was then a +most charming rural hamlet; but the cottages are removed (much to the +advantage of the tenants), to afford a scope in the grounds +corresponding with the dignity of the new mansion. Rustic simplicity and +the wilder graces have given way to elegance and polished decoration: +but whether the alteration</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Adds beauties to what Nature plann'd before,"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Is merely a question of taste, on which we shall not presume to decide: +various are the opinions,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i4">—"And many a stranger stops,</div> +<div>With curious eye, to censure or admire."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>As the public are now excluded from the garden and pleasure-grounds, it +is rather difficult to get a good view of the castle; the best places +however are ... a lofty knoll or promontory on the opposite side of the +road,—and a rocky mound near THE CAVE, which is in the face of the +sea-cliffs, marked by a flag-staff; and there is, close by, a path to +the beach. Half an hour's saunter would be quite sufficient to enable a +visitor to judge of the beauty of the scene—which at one time procured +it the title of <i>Queen of the Undercliff</i>. If but five minutes can be +spared, the tourist ought to quit his vehicle, and reach the brow of the +promontory above alluded to, were it only for the sake of the delightful +prospect which it affords.</p> + +<p>The coast of Steephill forms a pleasant little cove or bay, with +remarkably bold and picturesque headlands: and the place altogether +equals any part of the Undercliff in its natural embellishment of rich +groves and sparkling streams, mossy rocks, and broken ground.</p> + +<blockquote><p>DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE.—In the design of this stately edifice, +it appears to have been the aim of the architect to combine, as +much as possible, all the internal advantages of a plain mansion, +with the commanding form and embellished detail which usually +characterize a castellated structure. It is not therefore open to +an objection which lies against many of the most picturesque +specimens of this dignified style of building—that internal +convenience was sacrificed to the production of bold and pleasing +contrasts in the face of the exterior: or that it was the growth of +successive improvements. Indeed, both inside and out, all appears +to be handsomely proportioned and well-arranged; while in any point +of view the whole presents an aspect of elegant simplicity.—The +general form of the castle is an oblong; and the most prominent +features ... one majestic square tower which springs from about the +centre of the north side; another tower of an octagon form at the +south-eastern angle; and a beautiful hall-entrance on the east. The +predominant tint is a dark grey: but the battlements, quoins, and +mouldings, are of a light warm color, resembling the Bath stone. +This opposition of tints has a most pleasing, chaste effect, when +closely examined: but at a distance the whole melts into a sober +hue, like the grey impression of time, and hence harmonizes the +more sweetly with the surrounding scenery. Both kinds of stone were +procured on the spot.—The architect was the late Mr. James +Sanderson, of Ryde.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p><i>Remarks on the Exclusion of Strangers from most of the Gentlemen's +Seats</i>.—However provoking it may prove to many visitors when +making the tour of the island, to be shut out from a view of some +of the most charming seats, still it may be justified in a +considerable degree; and we feel it our duty to repeat what we have +stated elsewhere, that we know several gentlemen who would freely +open their gates to respectable visitors, provided they could be +assured of every party being contented with a general view of the +local beauties, without indulging a too prying curiosity; and at +the same time would <i>refrain from plucking choice flowers, fruits, +and shrubs</i>, many of which may perhaps have been cultivated by the +hands of the owner with an affection of no little solicitude and +pride; and of course it is not always convenient to keep a person +merely to act as an attendant. But a more decisive reason with many +gentlemen who love retirement is, that from the island becoming +every year more and more attractive with pleasure-parties, an +<i>unlimited admission</i> of strangers would at once annihilate all the +charms of rural seclusion; it would in fact be converting the +flowery walks of a quiet country-villa into as giddy a promenade as +almost any popular tea-garden in the suburbs of the metropolis. +Still however, speaking generally, it requires only some slight +grounds of introduction: and in the absence of the family there is +of course less difficulty,—it being then a privilege often given +to the servants.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>ST. LAWRENCE.</h3> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Church</span>, <i>here, is from its diminutiveness, quite an +object of curiosity; and the stranger will also notice</i> THE WELL, <i>on +the road-side; but the</i> <span class="smcap">Villa</span> <i>and</i> <span class="smcap">Cottage</span> <i>are both +secluded from public view</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Here lawns, and groves, and op'ning prospects break</div> +<div>With sweet surprize upon the wand'ring eye:—</div> +<div>While through romantic scenes and hanging woods.</div> +<div>And valleys green, and rocks, and hollow dales,</div> +<div>We rove enchanted."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The scenery of St. Lawrence is a singular union of the cultivated with +the wild and romantic—a pleasing interchange of the elegance of +splendid retirement with the unobtrusive dwellings of laboring peasants, +scattered amidst sheltering groves and ivy-covered rocks. Here the Rt. +Hon. Earl Yarborough has ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"A country-cottage—near a chrystal flood,</div> +<div>A winding valley, and a lofty wood;"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Long celebrated as the favorite retreat of the late Sir Richard Worsley, +of Appuldurcombe Park, who embellished it in quite a classical +style—planting a vineyard, decorating the grounds with models of +ancient temples, &c. The house has since been considerably enlarged, and +ornamented in the old-English style with elaborate barge-boards and +pinnacles. At a short distance is the recently built residence of his +Lordship's brother, the Hon. Capt. C.D. Pelham, <span class="smcap">R.N.</span>—also in +the Elizabethan style. By way of contradistinction, the original is +emphatically called <i>the Villa</i>, and the latter, <i>the Cottage</i>. It is +much to be regretted, that the public have of late been altogether +excluded from the grounds—from even walking on the edge of the +sea-cliffs!</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_15lg.jpg" id="illu_15lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_15sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 447px; border: 0" alt="ST LAWRENCE CHURCH" /><br />ST LAWRENCE CHURCH <i>UNDERCLIFF ISLE OF WIGHT</i></a></p> + +<p>The miniature CHURCH seldom fails of proving an amusing object with +every visitor,—for it ranks among the smallest parochial places of +religious worship in Great Britain: its belfry, the pretty little porch, +and its several windows, are all in character; it has however lately +been found necessary to lengthen the building, in consequence of the +increase of population in the vicinity.</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_14lg.jpg" id="illu_14lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_14sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 434px; border: 0" alt="ST LAWRENCE WELL" /><br /><i>ST LAWRENCE.—The WELL near the Marine Villa of the +Right Honourable Lord Yarborough.—Isle of Wight.</i></a></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The Well</span> encloses a fountain of ever-running crystal water, the +soft murmurs of which combine with the surrounding scene to produce the +most agreeable feelings; and it is marked by so much of that beautiful +simplicity which is the foundation of picturesque effect, that perhaps +no other object in its charming neighbourhood, except the little church, +will afford the stranger more immediate pleasure.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>THE ROAD FROM ST. LAWRENCE TO NITON.</h3> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>For the succeeding mile and a half, our attention will be called +to no one particular object; but we shall have the Undercliff in +all its native character, a circumstance which must prove +gratifying to those who admire Nature in</i> <span class="smcap">her own</span> +<i>attire</i>,</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>The reader will be pleased, we have no doubt, with the following brief +notice of this part of the coast, by the late celebrated Mrs. +Radcliffe:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Oct. 15, 1811.—Passed Lord Dysart's beautiful cottage: it stands +at some distance from the shore, and has several distinct roofs, +well thatched: stands at the head of a winding lawn, with a fine +beech-grove, and richly-colored copse. The little parish-church of +St. Lawrence, perhaps the smallest in England, stands on a knoll, +and terminates the cultivated valley; immediately beyond which we +entered upon a scene of the wildest grandeur and solemnity. Many of +the ruinous precipices of the upper cliffs project in horizontal +strata, yet have perpendicular rents. Some of the shattered masses +give the clearest echoes: we stood before one which responded every +syllable with an exactness which was truly astonishing.—There is +sometimes what may be called an amphitheatre of rock, where all the +area is filled with ruins, which are however covered with verdure +and underwood, that stretch up the sides with the wildest pomp: and +shelter here a cottage, there a villa, among the rocky hillocks."</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>Passing a gentleman's residence situated below the road on our left, +called OLD PARK (not from its display of sylvan honors), we should look +out for a romantic ascent in the lofty cliffs called ...</p> + +<p class="center">CRIPPLE-PATH:</p> + +<p>It is worth examining, being a curious instance of the formation of the +bold horizontal crags and ledges which distinguish these hoary +precipices. For some distance the path is in a sunken stratum of soft +freestone, while the upper ledge of more stubborn rock overhangs it +several feet. Having reached the eminence by a rude winding staircase in +a rent of the cliff,—we shall be well repaid for our trifling labor, +by the beautiful prospect which is disclosed of the Undercliff, spread +like an extensive garden immediately under our feet. Many parties walk +hence on the edge of the cliffs to Niton, &c.</p> + +<p>MIRABLES is another charming villa, through whose luxuriant plantations +the road is carried for nearly half a mile, affording a most grateful +shade: but, by the bye, at the expense of all prospect.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Refreshing change, where now the blazing sun?</div> +<div>By short transition we have lost his glare,</div> +<div>And stepp'd at once into a cooler clime."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The house is secluded from our view: it is in the plain cottage style: +but the grounds are not surpassed for rock and sylvan beauty by any seat +on the coast.</p> + +<p>We successively pass through the grounds, close and open, of the three +following villas:</p> + +<p>THE ORCHARD (on the same side of the road as Mirables, and like it, not +open to the public view): a spacious villa in the embellished style, and +the grounds immediately in front being formed into a succession of +walled terraces, where the grape-vine and the peach find a congenial +aspect: the coping too is adorned with a profusion of elegant vases, +filled with the choicest flowers, nor is a gentle fountain wanting to +complete the Italian beauty of the scene.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Beauchamp</span>, an unpretending residence in the simple cottage +style, on the right-hand side of the road, proceeding to Niton: we catch +a glimpse of it through the trees.</p> + +<p>PUCKASTER COTTAGE, the property of the late James Vine, esq., remarkable +for its chaste and <i>appropriate</i> design, <i>as a residence seated amidst +colossal rocks, precipices, and wild tufted knolls</i>. The house, the +improvements in the grounds, and every decoration, in +character,—<span class="smcap">unity</span> marking the whole: rather an uncommon +circumstance, where there is an unceasing desire to give every grace to +a favorite scene—and withal, ample scope and means to indulge the wish.</p> + +<p>The old road now makes a sudden turn on our right, and here occurs the +only considerable break in the upper boundary line of the Undercliff +from one end to the other. To the left of us, a considerable extent of +land has been laid out and partly disposed of, for the purpose of +building on; and new roads made accordingly: but as yet however the +speculation has not been carried on with much spirit.</p> + +<p>At a short distance we come in front of the garden-wall of a gentleman's +villa called <span class="smcap">Westcliff</span>, a beautiful and well-sheltered spot +where the road abruptly divides, the left-hand branch pursuing the tour +to Blackgang Chine, and the right to Newport through NITON, a village +composed of a number of stone-built thatched cottages, some of which are +furnished for lodgings; and has also a decent small inn called the White +Lion. The Church is a pretty little object enough, standing at the foot +of the down, over which used to be the only direct high-road to Chale +and Blackgang Chine.</p> + +<p>Continuing on towards the Chalybeate Spring, we pass Westcliff, and come +to the <span class="smcap">Royal Sandrock Hotel</span>, placed in a most beautiful and +commanding situation; it will be readily distinguished by its ample +verandah, mantled with the choicest creepers.—Next to the Hotel appears +<span class="smcap">Mount Cleeves</span>, a respectable residence near the foot of the +cliff, surrounded by huge rocks and craggy mounds:—one of these is +adorned by a small obelisk that serves to mark a beautiful feature which +would otherwise be overlooked. The cottage-lodge below is a remarkably +pretty object.—See the Plate.</p> + +<p>This part of the Undercliff is at once picturesque and lively; there +being just sufficient houses to give the scenery a cheerful aspect, +without intrenching too much on the natural beauties of the place.</p> + +<p>We now enter on a scene which gives us a complete picture of the +Undercliff in all its genuine lines,—for it was the subject of an +extensive landslip in the year 1799, when a tract of about one hundred +acres was disturbed, the whole sliding forward in a mass towards the +sea, rifting into frightful chasms, and alternately rising and falling +like the waves of the sea: a cottage was overturned, but fortunately no +lives were lost.</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_16lg.jpg" id="illu_16lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_16sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 455px; border: 0" alt="THE UNDERCLIFF" /><br />THE UNDERCLIFF, <i>Between the Sandrock Hotel & the +Chalybeate Spring,—affording the best idea of the romantic character of +that part of the Isle of Wight.</i></a></p> + +<p>The annexed Plate of "the Undercliff, as it appears between the +Sandrock Hotel and Blackgang Chine," is introduced in order to give an +idea of the <i>general aspect</i> of this singular tract: the wall-like +precipice which is the land-boundary rises abruptly on the right: the +intermediate space to the sea-shore is broken into a series of craggy +knolls and dells: the carriage-road threading its way between immense +masses of the fallen cliff,—now conducted along the margin of a +dangerous slope or precipice; and now descending into a theatre of +detached rocks and wild vegetation; but even here, though the softer +charms of scenery be wanting, it proves that ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i4">—"Whether drest or rude,</div> +<div>Wild without art, or artfully subdued,</div> +<div>Nature in every form inspires delight."</div> +</div></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The individual objects in the neighbourhood of Niton, calling for +particular remark, are few; notwithstanding the general aspect of the +scenery is strikingly wild and sombre. The</i> <span class="smcap">Light-house</span> <i>will +force itself on our attention: the</i> <span class="smcap">Chalybeate Spring</span> <i>ought +not to be passed by unnoticed; but the crowning feature of the district +is</i> <span class="smcap">Blackgang Chine</span>, <i>a scene of the most terrific grandeur</i>.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">ST</span>. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE.</h3> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_17lg.jpg" id="illu_17lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_17sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 441px; border: 0" alt="ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE NITON, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE NITON, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p> + +<p>The building of this lofty tower was commenced in the spring of 1839, +and finished in the following year: the undertaking having originated in +consequence of the loss of the ship <i>Clarendon</i> (see p. 85). From the +frequent wrecks on this most dangerous part of the coast, it is rather +surprizing that such a warning friend to the hapless mariner was not +erected before: because many of the catastrophes were owing to the want +of some light or signal in the night, which could be distinctly seen by +seamen long ere they reached the fatal shore. It is true indeed, that +between 50 and 60 years ago, a Light-house was built on the summit of +St. Catharine's down, but for some reason not known to the public, it +never was equipped and lighted: and was in fact very soon abandoned. It +has been said that the site was too elevated, that it would be quite +obscured by fogs and mists in those very seasons when its friendly ray +was the most required;—it might be so, but certainly that was never +proved by the experiment: and it seems strange that these grounds of +objection were not suggested to the projectors in time.</p> + +<p>The new Light-house stands near the edge of the sea-cliffs, at an +elevation of about fifty feet above the beach. The stone Tower is 101 +feet high from the surface of the ground, besides the lantern of about +20 feet more: and the foundation is of <i>solid masonry</i> to the depth of +thirty feet! The requisite offices for the two light-keepers are built +round the foot of the tower, and are comparatively low, so that at a +distance the lofty fabric appears as a magnificent column, or</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Like some tall watch-tower nodding o'er the deep,</div> +<div>Whose rocky base the foaming waters sweep."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Inside the tower a broad stone staircase winds spirally to the top; and +many visitors make the ascent, for the sake of the beautiful view +afforded of the adjacent part of the Undercliff, as well as for +examining the splendid and complicated lantern.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>As the carriage-road now pursues its mazy course through ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly hurl'd,</div> +<div>The fragments of an earlier world,"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>We soon reach the locality of the SANDROCK CHALYBEATE SPRING: easily +recognized by the low thatched roof of the Dispensary Cottage, that +stands nearly on the brow of the cliff, as the water issues from a rock +considerably below, inclosed in a plain piece of masonry. It has been +proved by repeated analyses, that there is a larger proportion of iron +and alumine in this than in any other mineral water yet discovered: and +its medicinal properties are therefore decidedly indicated in the cure +of those disorders arising from a relaxed fibre and languid circulation, +such as indigestion, flatulency, nervous disorders, and debility from a +long residence in hot climates.</p> + +<p>Great improvement has taken place in the neighbourhood of the Spring, +within these few years, by <i>extensive draining</i>: thus preventing the +land-soaks and springs during winter from settling into frequent pools, +and thereby reducing the soil to the repulsive condition of a sterile +waste of quagmire and sliding rocks, and in every succeeding summer +drying up into a thousand dangerous holes and fissures. The ground in +fact is now sufficiently firm to invite the builder to the erection of +some good houses; and the surface exhibits a healthy herbage: roads have +also been made to the shore. A large and handsome-looking house, called +an "Italian Villa," has been erected on the east side of the +Spring,—but if the architect ever copied such for his model, he +certainly should have selected a site more appropriate, that would have +justified his choice of style by its genial aspect, its greenwood +shades, and the vegetative luxuriance of the soil.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The shore here is called <span class="smcap">Rocken-end Race</span>, being composed of +vast confused heaps of rocky fragments precipitated in the course of +ages from the cliffs above, and now stretching out into the sea for +nearly a mile and a half.—Between this and Freshwater lie other +formidable reefs, respectively named from the nearest villages, +<span class="smcap">Atherfield</span>, <span class="smcap">Chilton</span>, and <span class="smcap">Brooke</span>; they are +extremely dangerous: and previously to the erection of the new +Light-house, occasioned frequent shipwrecks.</p> + +<hr /> + + +<h3>BLACKGANG CHINE,</h3> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_18lg.jpg" id="illu_18lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_18sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 457px; border: 0" alt="BLACKGANG CHINE, I.W." /><br />BLACKGANG CHINE, I.W. <i>Taken from below the new Bridge, +which is a very general point of view, as the descent to the shore +thence becomes more abrupt and difficult.</i></a></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Where hills with naked heads the tempests meet—</div> +<div>Rocks at their sides, and torrents at their feet,"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Deservedly ranks among the most striking scenes in the island, it is the +termination of the Undercliff, and of a character the very reverse of +Shanklin; for all here is terrific grandeur—without a green spray or +scarcely a tuft of verdure to soften its savage aspect. It differs also +from that sylvan spot, in being much more lofty, abrupt, and irregular: +though it does not penetrate the land so far. Both have their respective +admirers: this for its awful sublimity—that for its romantic beauty.</p> + +<p>At the head of the Chine is a spacious Hotel, close to the road, and +distinguished by the name of the place.</p> + +<p>The shelving sides of this gloomy chasm are proved to be little less +than 500 feet from the beach in perpendicular height; they are in a +constant state of decay—more or less considerable according to the +degree of rain and frost during winter: for the same description of +soil, namely, a mixture of clay and loose absorbent marle, interspersed +with veins of gravel, predominate here as we have seen elsewhere in its +neighbourhood. The only relief in fact to the dusky tint of the scene, +is two or three horizontal strata of yellowish free-stone, which give it +a step-like appearance. The most remarkable feature is a tremendous +gloomy hollow or cave, scooped out of the cliffs on the sea-shore by the +united action of the waves and the stream: the latter falls over a ledge +of the stubborn rock at the top, 70 feet high: and after heavy floods, +forms a noble cascade of one unbroken sheet: but like others of its +class, in summer fails in its amount, and often degenerates into a +noiseless dribble.</p> + +<p>Nowhere can we get a complete view of Blackgang except off on the water, +which is not always practicable: certainly not in the very seasons when +the whole appears with the greatest interest,—when there is a strong +wind and tide setting in-shore, and the face of Nature is shrouded in +deepening gloom, with perhaps some hapless vessel in danger of being +wrecked,—it is then dressed in all the congenial horrors of savage +sublimity.—No one, a stranger to the sea-coast, would imagine how +awfully the surges lash the stony beach in tempestuous weather: the +high-curling waves break with a deafening roar, and mounting the lofty +cliffs in sheets of dazzling foam, are wafted in misty clouds half over +the island—even to Newport, where the windows facing the south are +occasionally dimmed with the saline vapors, almost to an incrustation.</p> + +<p>The visitor will of course endeavour to descend to the shore; but this +is sometimes attended with considerable fatigue and difficulty, after +wet weather, to those who are delicate and infirm. For this reason, we +have taken our sketch from near the new bridge, to which the descent +from the hotel is generally easy: and from which the visitor may gain +such a view as will enable him to form a very good idea of the whole +scene. The windings of the Chine commence a little below the Hotel, +which (as already stated) stands at least 500 feet above the beach.</p> + +<blockquote><p>From the proximity of several newly erected villas and +lodging-houses, it ought here to be stated to the visitor, that the +<i>true character</i> of the place is in consequence greatly injured: +for the garish and obtrusive habitations of genteel life but ill +accord with that solitary and impressive magnificence which +constitutes the very interest—the sublimity and peculiarity of a +silent and cheerless scene, such as formerly were the aspect and +condition of Blackgang Chine and its immediate neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>"There has long been a tradition that Blackgang Chine was once the +favorite retreat of a gang of pirates, and from that circumstance +its name was derived.—Without disputing the fact of its having +offered occasionally concealment and a safe depository to +smugglers, or even pirates for a time,—it is equally, if not more +probable, that it is indebted for its very expressive appellation +to its sombre coloring, and the <i>step-like</i> appearance of the +strata, if the word <i>gang</i> be admitted to have the same +signification as it has in a ship."</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>Between Blackgang and Freshwater are several other Chines on an inferior +scale, partaking more or less of the same sterile aspect: such are +Walpan, Whale, Compton, Cowleaze and the Shepherd's, Grange, Chilton, +and Brooke: but though several of them are well entitled to notice, they +are seldom visited, owing to their remoteness from the public roads.</p> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> It should be observed however, that though they possess less +scenic interest than those already described,—they embrace a +portion of the island most attractive to the geologist, from the +circumstance of the cliffs and shores abounding in the most +beautiful specimens of fossil remains.—We would moreover call the +attention of those visitors who may desire to examine into the +agency which has produced the chines, to the two called <i>Cowleaze</i> +and <i>the Shepherd's</i>—the latter of which has been formed within +the last 40 years, in consequence, it is said, of a countryman in +an idle moment turning the course of the small rivulet which had +hitherto run through Cowleaze. They are situated about a mile from +Brixton.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3><span class="smcap">St. CATHARINE's HILL</span></h3> + +<p>(In the steep side of which on the south is Blackgang Chine), is the +highest in the island, or between 800 and 900 feet above the level of +the sea. An ancient octagon tower stands at the top, built on the site +of, or rather as an appendage to, a hermitage—originally endowed by a +benevolent individual for the purpose of providing lights in dark and +stormy nights:—there is also the shell of the old light-house mentioned +at p. 79.</p> + +<p>The regular carriage-road between Chale and Niton used to be over this +down previous to the year 1838: and we in some measure regret (although +<i>celerity</i> in travelling be now the order of the day), that it is +superseded by the road then made to Blackgang: to the admirers of +illimitable prospect it afforded a rich treat, "for language is scarcely +adequate to describe the various beauties which present themselves from +this elevated spot."</p> + +<p>On the northern extremity of St. Catharine's down is an elegant and most +conspicuous object (72 feet high,) called the ALEXANDRIAN PILLAR: the +purpose of its erection is perhaps best told by the inscription itself:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"<i>In commemoration of the visit of his Imperial Majesty Alexander +I, Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain in the year +1814—and in remembrance of the many happy years' residence in his +dominions—this Pillar was erected by Michael Hoy.</i>"</p></blockquote> + +<p>On the slope is a seat called the MEDINA HERMITAGE (formerly the +summer-residence of the gentleman named on the pillar): the house is +characterized by simplicity and neatness: and its greatest ornament is a +large verandah, having a broad <i>trellis</i> roof, beautifully intertwined +with the sweetest varieties of climbing plants. From its very elevated +situation, it commands a rich display of the country from Niton to +Newport.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>CHALE CHURCH</h3> + +<p>Must be passed in the regular tour, going to or returning from +Blackgang; stands close to the road; and though simple in its +architecture, has a venerable and rather picturesque +appearance—especially its square tower, which proves a great relief to +the flatness of the view looking westward to the Freshwater cliffs: +dates its erection in the 12th century; and exposed as it is to the rage +of the elements, affords an instance of the stability which +characterizes the structures of antiquity.</p> + +<p>The cemetery of Chale incloses many a shipwrecked mariner—no doubt some +hundreds who were deposited, in the course of ages, without any memento +whatever: but the public are now more interested, from the +circumstance of the unfortunate sufferers in the wreck of the ship +Clarendon being here interred,—to whose memory tombstones are erected, +on which the date and other particulars of their melancholy fate are +recorded.</p> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><h3>WRECKS ON THE SOUTHERN COAST.</h3> + +<p>We have already stated how dangerous this part of the coast is +during a south or south-west wind, to vessels unmanageable in a +storm: and previously to the erection of the new Light-house, few +winters passed without two or more wrecks occurring between Niton +and Freshwater Bay. In former times, the <i>waifs</i>, or possession of +such remains of ships or their cargoes as were washed ashore, seems +to have been a valued right of this, as well as some other manors +in the Isle of Wight; and many tales have been told of the +inhumanity of the wreckers who in those days are said to have +resided in the neighbourhood,—which, if true, are strongly +contrasted by the ready zeal and liberality which the present +inhabitants display in assisting those unfortunates whom the +furious elements so often cast on this fatal shore.</p> + +<p>Of the numerous vessels which have been lost here in our own time, +the largest was perhaps the <i>Carn-brea Castle</i> East Indiaman, in +July 1829: she left Spithead at nine o'clock in the morning, and +about six hours afterwards struck on the rocks near Mottistone: the +weather being fine, her crew and passengers easily reached the +shore. The size of the ship, and the remarkable circumstances under +which she was lost, attracted a considerable number of visitors to +the spot,—as she was not immediately broken up, though all hopes +of removing her were soon abandoned.</p> + +<p>A far more disastrous wreck was that of the CLARENDON, a West India +trader of 350 tons, which took place on the 11th of October, 1836: +and will be remembered with increased interest, as the acknowledged +fact of her loss being mainly attributable to the want of some +warning beacon on the land, led almost directly to the erection of +the splendid light-house at Niton. She had 11 passengers, male and +female, and 17 seamen on board: her cargo consisted of sugar, rum, +molasses, and turtle; she was heavily laden, and had been about six +weeks on her voyage. The preceding evening was fine, and the breeze +favorable, and the passengers retired to rest in fancied security, +with the pleasing hope of safely reaching their destination on the +following day. After midnight the wind increased; but though the +ship drove rapidly before it, no danger was perceived till about +day-break,—when, already in the surf, there was no longer a +possibility of escape. The crew immediately proceeded to set all +sail the storm would permit, in hopes of weathering the point; but +their gallant efforts could not long delay the fate of the doomed +vessel, she continued to drift towards the beach, on which she +struck a little before six o'clock, and within five minutes was +totally demolished. It would be a useless attempt to describe the +horrors of that short but fearful period: all that could be +gathered from the statements of the survivors was, that she twice +touched the ground lightly, forward, at which time all her people +were assembled on the deck; and presently one mountain wave hurled +her broadside on the beach with such stupendous force, that the +huge hull at once parted into a thousand fragments! The frightful +brevity of the whole catastrophe prevented any measures being taken +for the relief of the passengers and crew, although the ship was +scarcely twice her own length from the cliff; and all perished +except the mate and two seamen, who were rescued by the courageous +exertions of some countrymen who had hastened to the spot as soon +as dawn disclosed the inevitable danger of the vessel.—For some +hours afterwards a hideous spectacle was here presented,—the naked +and mangled bodies of the unfortunate sufferers, with the remains +of the vessel and cargo, were tossed about in dire confusion by the +raging waves, or dashed again and again on the stony beach; but +before the close of the day, most of the former had been drawn +ashore, and the broken fragments of the wreck were strewed on the +beach for several miles. Six of the passengers (an officer named +Shore, his wife, and daughters,) were buried in Newport churchyard, +where a monument has since been erected to their memory; and it is +a strange fact that the premises which adjoin that cemetery on the +western side, had been but a short time previously engaged for +their reception by a near relative, who there anxiously awaited the +ship's arrival. Most of the others (as already mentioned,) were +interred at Chale.</p> + +<p>Subsequently, the wrecks on the island coast have been less +numerous, and rarely accompanied by loss of life or any other +circumstance of particular interest: the case of H.M. Steam-sloop +SPHYNX, however, having excited so large a share of public +attention, claims a brief notice. Returning from her first voyage +to Africa, she neared the coast during a thick fog about six +o'clock on the morning of Jan. 16, 1847: and by the force of her +engines was driven over the outer ledge (off Brooke), and firmly +fixed in the clay beds within. The suddenness of the accident +caused great alarm amongst her crew and passengers (300 in number): +and the startling discharges of her heavy artillery quickly aroused +the inhabitants for miles round: but daylight and the ebbing tide +enabled her people to reach land with no great +difficulty,—although a boat, sent to her from another war-steamer, +capsized with the loss of seven men. For nearly two months, +repeated efforts were made to extricate the Sphynx from her awkward +position: and after her masts, guns, and most of her stores and +machinery had been removed, and the hull itself buoyed up by a vast +number of empty casks, and some decked lighters (called camels), +she was at length brought off and towed into Portsmouth harbour on +the 3rd. of March. Her bottom had sustained considerable injury, +though much less than was expected from her having lain so long in +such a situation, and during several severe gales.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>The VILLAGE OF CHALE lies at the foot of St. Catharine's Hill, and +comprises a considerable number of scattered cottages: none of them +however deserving a stranger's notice, except perhaps the Parsonage, and +the Abbey-farm-house; the latter covered with the most luxuriant ivy.</p> + +<p>If the visitor be on his return to Newport, he will within three miles +of it pass GATCOMBE, a small village, and a first rate seat: exhibiting +altogether perhaps the most charming <i>inland</i> scenery in the Isle of +Wight:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Sweet are its groves, and verdant are its fields."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The mansion is a large square edifice, extremely well-situated,—in +front a fine lawn falls with an easy slope, shaded by many noble oaks +and elms: and immediately behind rises a steep hill luxuriantly clothed +with hanging plantations. At a short distance from the house is a small +lake; and near the latter, the neat little parish-church, and the +Parsonage, both beautifully embosomed in wood.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>THE ROAD TO FRESHWATER-GATE.</h3> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>From Chale to the celebrated Cliff's of Freshwater is about twelve +miles; the first eight of which are through an agricultural district, +presenting only so many agreeable pictures of rural life,—and of these +the principal are</i> <span class="smcap">Shorwell</span>, <span class="smcap">Northcourt</span>, <i>and</i> +<span class="smcap">Brixton</span>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"A simple scene! yet hence Brittannia sees</div> +<div>Her solid grandeur rise."</div> +</div></div> + +<blockquote><p>The fact is, the greater part of the soil is so extremely fertile, +as to be employed in tillage and meadow, almost to the exclusion of +woods and coppice, which constitute the chief ornaments of a +landscape. We have, however, nearly the whole of the journey such a +charming view of the ocean, as to compensate for the deficiency of +sylvan beauties.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>After passing a small church called <span class="smcap">Kingston</span>, posted on a +knoll, and surrounded by a few trees which bespeak their bleak exposure, +we reach ...</p> + +<h3>SHORWELL,</h3> + +<p>A considerable village, about four miles from Chale, and five from +Newport; it stands charmingly sheltered in a curve of the downs with a +southern aspect; has a pretty church; and boasts of the finest old +mansion in the island, called NORTHCOURT, built in the reign of James +I. This venerable pile has lately been thoroughly repaired: a necessary +operation by the bye that has stripped it for a few years of its +greatest ornament—the rich drapery of ivy which invested its lofty gray +walls and pinnacles: hills, clothed with hanging woods and plantations, +rise boldly around it; many of the oaks and pines, luxuriating in a +fertile soil and genial climate, are uncommonly fine: the grounds too +are embellished with a rustic temple, and a very elegant mausoleum to +the memory of Miss Bull, the daughter of a former owner,—the whole +scene indeed is replete with architectural and sylvan beauties. There +are in the neighbourhood two other ancient manorial residences, named +Westcourt and Woolverton, now converted into farm-houses: and the +cottages of Shorwell are remarkable for their neatness and comfortable +appearance, as well as for the abundant display of creepers and +flowering shrubs with which most of them are adorned.</p> + +<p>Two miles further on we enter BRIXTON, a populous village in the heart +of a rich tract of cultivation: is one mile from the shore, and screened +from the north by a range of lofty downs. The Church is rather spacious, +and not unpicturesque; many of the cottages are neat, some few furnished +for lodgings: and there is a comfortable small inn. This place is +commonly called Brison, and one clergyman names it Brightstone.</p> + +<p>MOTTISTONE succeeds: a pretty hamlet nearly shrouded in wood, with a +very picturesque church. On an elevated part of the farm are the remains +of some small druidical temple called <span class="smcap">Longstone</span>, which is a +rude piece of rock of a quadrangular figure, evidently erected by art, +and rears itself about twelve feet above the ground; near it another +large stone lies partly buried in the earth, of not less than eight feet +long.</p> + +<p>BROOK is the last village we pass till we reach Freshwater: much the +same character as the others: the Mansion-house, which is surrounded +with wood, being the only object to notice, besides the little church, +which we shall presently pass, posted solitarily on an eminence near the +foot of the down.</p> + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h3>THE WESTERN QUARTER OF THE ISLAND, DISTINGUISHED</h3> + +<h3>FOR ITS</h3> + +<h2>SUBLIME SCENERY.</h2> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>The Road over the Downs from Brooke to Freshwater-gate.</i></h3> + +<blockquote><p>We shall now leave the familiar scenes of cultivation and of +village life for a time, to enjoy the charms of unbounded prospect, +as we journey for four miles over a succession of pasturing downs, +where in many parts our road will be upon a natural carpet of the +finest turf.</p> + +<p>Tasteless indeed must be those who can travel over these lofty and +<i>beautiful</i> downs, without experiencing the most lively +gratification from the checquered and magnificent prospects which +invite their contemplation on every side: but to enjoy the pleasure +in perfection we must occasionally pause, to discriminate (by +reference to a friend or a map,) some of the more remarkable +features.—Looking to the westward, the high cliffs of Freshwater +stretch away in a noble promontory of three miles, forming the +foreground to the soft azure perspective of the coast of Dorset: +but to the north, so diversified is the extensive landscape with +towns and villages, hills, woods, forests, sea, and river, as to +mock our most ardent wishes to convey even a faint idea of the +grandeur of the composition.</p> + +<p>Another source of no inconsiderable pleasure, when traversing these +beautiful downs,—soaring as it were in the higher regions—is +feeling that we actually breathe the purest atmosphere, so +exhilarating to the human frame. Nor is the reverse of this +desirable clearness of the weather without its share of +amusement—to witness the formation of clouds, as the vapors are +drawn up from the sea, and gradually condensed; rolling by, and +enveloping us in their misty volumes. It is true indeed, that these +exhibitions are not without danger to the traveller, lest he +unwarily approach too near the fatal precipice: but this +circumstance imposing the necessity of caution, excites an +<i>interest</i>—and interest is the very zest of adventure. [Footnote: Near the edge of the cliffs about half a mile eastward of +Freshwater-gate, a small tablet has lately been erected, to +commemorate the unfortunate fate of a youth who slipped over and +perished on the rocks beneath.—Some years ago two successive +keepers of the Needles Light-house lost their lives in a similar +manner over the precipices on which that establishment is located.]</p> + +<p>In short, whether for the splendor of the prospects, the refreshing +purity of the air, or the novelty of literally walking in the +clouds, we esteem the journey over these downs, as pleasurable as +any portion of the tour.</p></blockquote> + +<p>We shall now suppose the Visitor to be descending the last down, and +in a few minutes, walking on the beach—here to commence his +examination of ...</p> + + +<h3>THE FRESHWATER CLIFFS.</h3> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_19lg.jpg" id="illu_19lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_19sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 460px; border: 0" alt="FRESHWATER BAY, I.W." /><br />FRESHWATER BAY, I.W. <i>(The two remarkable isolated Rocks +and Entrance to the principal Cavern.)</i></a></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Suspended cliffs, with hideous sway,</div> +<div>Seem nodding o'er the caverns gray."</div> +</div></div> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>Several romantic</i> <span class="smcap">Caverns</span> <i>near Freshwater-gate: the +Needles</i> <span class="smcap">Light-house</span>—<i>and the wonderfully</i> <span class="smcap">colored +Sands</span> <i>of Alum Bay, are accessible without taking boat: the +celebrated</i> <span class="smcap">Needle Rocks</span> <i>are seen (though not to advantage,) +from the down and beach: but the</i> <span class="smcap">Grand Arch</span>, <i>the</i> +<span class="smcap">Wedge-Rock</span>, <i>and several deep</i> <span class="smcap">Caverns</span> <i>and other +curiosities of Rock-scenery, can be viewed only by water, which is +extremely desirable in calm weather.</i></p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class="smcap">The white Cliffs of Albion</span> is so favorite a poetical +designation of the English coast, that it is with some degree of pride +we hail our "sea-girt isle" as surpassing in the magnificence and +splendor of this characteristic, every other part of the kingdom; for +even Shakspeare's cliff at Dover, immortalized as it is by the pen of +the bard himself, is little more than half the elevation of some of the +chalk precipices of the Isle of Wight,—which, at Freshwater, rise from +the bosom of the blue ocean with a perpendicular face of the most +dazzling whiteness, the sublime altitude of more than 600 feet!—being +nearly one-half higher than the pinnacles either of St. Paul's or +Salisbury Cathedrals.</p> + +<p>A stranger from the inland districts, who may never have seen a +precipice upon a grander scale than is presented by the sides of some +deep chalk-pit, would be at a loss to imagine wherein consisted the +<span class="smcap">beauty</span> and the <span class="smcap">interest</span> of such seemingly monotonous +scenes; especially when informed that they are indebted to no borrowed +ornament from either tree or shrub: and indeed it would prove equally +difficult on our part to furnish a comprehensive definition. One eminent +writer enthusiastically eulogises their appearance as "<i>singularly +elegant</i> when viewed at a proper distance; and with the Needle Rocks, +constituting a whole that is scarcely to be equalled:"—another declares +that "the most lofty and magnificent fabrics of Art, compared with +these stupendous works of Nature, sink in idea to Lilliputian +size:"—and a third, that "the towering precipices of Scratchell's Bay +are of the most elegant forms;" and "the pearly hue of the chalk is +beyond description by words, probably out of the power even of the +pencil."</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>As almost every visitor has a card of <i>all the local curiosities</i> +presented to him by some of the boatmen of the place, it would be +useless here to describe individually the several objects deserving +personal observation: we shall therefore confine our notice to a few +of the most prominent,—commencing at ...</p> + +<h3>FRESHWATER-GATE,</h3> + +<p>Remarkable for the brilliancy as well as beauty of the surrounding +promontories, of which an enchanting view is presented as we descend +from the downs. The outline of the precipices is here extremely bold, +forming several charming little coves or bays, and penetrated at the +base by numerous deep <span class="smcap">Caverns</span> of the most romantic formation, +that are exceedingly interesting to visitors when explored. But what +contributes most to the picturesque character of the scenery is the +presence of several immense isolated rocks of grotesque shape, that rise +from 30 to 60 feet above the sea. Two of these will particularly attract +attention, namely, the <i>Arched</i>, and the <i>Deer-pound</i>, [Footnote: This +name was given to the rock from the fact, it is said, of a deer having +leaped on it from the main land, when closely pursued by the hounds of +the late Lord Holmes, about 70 or 80 years ago: at which time the +separation could have been but a few yards! Whatever credit may be +attached to this anecdote by the reader, it at least serves to show the +opinion which the older inhabitants entertain of the progressive waste +of land at this part of the coast (the face of the cliffs being +constantly exposed to the weather and undermining action of the sea); +and we remember it was but a few years back when the top of this same +rock was covered with a considerable patch of green sod.] they are the +remains of the original cliff, but being composed of more stubborn and +adhesive materials, have long resisted the lashing waves and warring +elements, while the parent cliffs are constantly receding and forming a +wider separation.</p> + +<p>Here are two respectable Hotels: the <i>Albion</i>, close to the beach; and +<i>Plumbly's</i>, on the cliff: both of which offer to their guests the charm +of hearing ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i4">——"The restless waves that roar,</div> +<div>And fling their foam against the rocky shore."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The CAVERN in Freshwater Bay was formerly an object of no little +curiosity to those who had never seen any thing similar of a more +striking character; but the romantic effect, and consequently interest +of the scene has been greatly injured by the fall falling-in of the +arched roof. Now, however, visitors can easily investigate other caverns +of a similar nature at WATCOMBE BAY (to which a good road has been made +from Plumbly's Hotel,) where there is also a pyramidical rock, curiously +perforated at the base.</p> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> A very common way of seeing these precipices is to go by water +to Alum Bay, there land, walk up to the Light-house, and return by +the beacon: or take boat at Alum Bay, and sail round the Needles or +to Freshwater Bay, just as fancy may suggest. Some proceed on foot +from Freshwater-gate to the Needles Light-house (about three +miles), on the green sod, near the margin of the cliffs: other +parties again go round by the carriage-road the whole distance in +their vehicles. As, however, the grandest scenes can only be +visited by boat, we shall best perform our duty as Cicerone by +pointing them out as they appear in an aquatic excursion—that to +parties generally affords a degree of elevated pleasure to which +nothing else in the island can bear any comparison. Yet should the +weather be too rough for this to be enjoyed, the visit to +Freshwater may prove not the less interesting: since it is +impossible for any spectacle to exceed in sublimity that which is +displayed when a storm is raging around the majestic cliffs and +vast detached rocks that here encounter the winds and waves of the +British Channel:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Down bursts the gale—the surges sweep,</div> +<div>Like gathering hosts, against the steep,</div> +<div>Sheeting, with clouds of snowy spray,</div> +<div>Its lofty forehead, old and gray.</div> +<div>With sudden shriek and cowering wing,</div> +<div>To the wild cliff the sea-birds spring;</div> +<div>Careering o'er the darken'd heaven,</div> +<div>The clouds in warring heaps are driven;</div> +<div>And crested high with lawny foam,</div> +<div>Rushes the mighty billow home."</div> +</div></div> +</blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p>(Another Hotel is situated on the north side of the down, within sight +of the Needles, by whose name it is distinguished.)</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_20lg.jpg" id="illu_20lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_20sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 439px; border: 0" alt="WATCOMBE BAY" /><br />WATCOMBE BAY <i>FRESHWATER ISLE OF WIGHT.</i></a></p> + +<p>From Watcombe Bay the precipices continue to increase in height till +they reach their greatest elevation (617 feet) at HIGH-DOWN, on which +the beacon is erected: they are however less perpendicular here than we +shall presently find them; and the more sloping portions are covered by +extensive patches of turf, samphire, &c., which vary the pure white of +the upright masses, though perhaps the lofty appearance of the whole is +thereby rather diminished, at least to a spectator at their base. +Amongst the most remarkable objects in this part of the range are +<span class="smcap">Neptune's Cave</span>, and <span class="smcap">Lord Holmes's Parlour</span>:—the +latter, a cavern of considerable height and breadth, derives its name +from the nobleman, whose name it bears, having occasionally enjoyed a +repast with his friends in the briny coolness of its shade, at least so +tradition tells us: it can be easily entered by boat in calm weather: +and when viewed from beneath its rough vaulted roof, has certainly a +very romantic appearance.</p> + +<p>A little further on is the WEDGE-ROCK, a most singular result of +accident; being a piece of rock about twelve feet long by six or eight +wide, exactly the shape of a wedge, resting between the main cliff and a +large mass of detached chalk, just as if fixed there by some gigantic +hand to effect the separation. It is often practicable to land here, and +it is worth while on the part of the young and active, were it only to +be satisfied how extremely deceptive is the appearance of the rocks and +broken green ledges, as to their size and extent of surface,—for few +would suppose (in passing by,) that the piece near the Wedge-rock +contains upwards of an acre of ground.—The pyramidical mass connected +with the Wedge is about fifty feet high, and a hundred long at the base.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Our friends will remember (as has been before said,) that we leave +the history of many curious rocks and caverns to be given by the +local watermen; for personal examination will invest a scene or +object with a degree of interest which cannot be felt by the +reader, who may have no expectation of ever seeing them.</p></blockquote> + +<p>Passing the <span class="smcap">Old Pepper-rock</span>, a picturesque detached mass at the +foot of the chalk—we find ourselves under the noble promontory of +MAIN-BENCH, where the precipices again rise to upwards, of six hundred +feet in height: and being nearly perpendicular, present a truly sublime +aspect, viewed either from above or below: while the constant washing of +the waves at the lower part, by removing the looser particles of chalk, +gives it much the appearance of having been built with vast blocks of +masonry. As the water is deep even close to the cliff, and beautifully +transparent in calm weather, the reflection on its surface of the crags +above, and the sunken rocks and marine plants which appear beneath, must +add considerably to the interest of our aquatic excursion. Main-bench +terminates in a bold bluff or projecting angle called <span class="smcap">Sun +Corner</span>; rounding which, we enter ...</p> + +<p>SCRATCHELL'S BAY, universally considered by visitors as the most +memorable spot on the island coast, alike for the grandeur, beauty, and +variety of its scenery. The dazzling whiteness of the chalk is here +relieved by thin curving beds of dark flint, which regularly divide it +into parallel strata of eight or ten feet thickness; the towering +precipices are of the most picturesque shapes; and the Needle Rocks form +an inimitable termination to the scene. Just within the bay is the +<span class="smcap">Needles Cave</span>, the deepest along the whole range, as it +penetrates the chalk 300 feet: but the <i>unique</i> feature which above all +the rest claims attention is the niche-like recess in the face of the +cliff, appropriately designated ...</p> + +<h3>THE GRAND ARCH;</h3> + +<p>It indicates little that is remarkable at a distance; but a truly +sublime effect is produced when the stranger is placed under its awful +roof with his back against the concave chalk: for he then sees above him +a magnificent Arch two hundred feet in height and overhanging the beach +at least one hundred and eighty!—yet so true, nay, even elegant is the +sweep, that it rather resembles the stupendous work of Art, than the +casual production of Nature. To form an idea of the sublimity of the +scene, the reader should task his memory with the dimensions of some of +the proudest architectural monuments in Great Britain: and the +comparison would immediately remove all doubt, that a sight of the Arch +itself would amply repay the trouble of a visit to Freshwater.</p> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_21lg.jpg" id="illu_21lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_21sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 453px; border: 0" alt="SCRATCHELL'S BAY" /><br /> SCRATCHELL'S BAY, <i>And the NEEDLE ROCKS, as viewed from a +bold Bluff called Sun Corner, being the termination of the Freshwater +Cliffs.—Isle if Wight.</i></a></p> + +<p>Scratchell's Bay is about half-a-mile in breadth; being formed by Sun +Corner and the Grand Arch on the eastern side, and on the west by the</p> + +<h3>NEEDLE ROCKS,</h3> + +<p>Which stretch out into the sea a considerable distance: they are remains +of the original cliff, and forcibly illustrate the destructive power of +the ocean's stormy winds and waves, which in successive ages have +removed so vast a quantity of the adjacent chalk. Nor are their ravages +at all diminished at the present time: for it is only within the last +few years that the smallest rock has been completely insulated; while +another immense mass of the cliff is evidently separating by degrees, +and will probably become ere long entirely detached, forming a +magnificent pyramid two or three hundred feet high. It is impossible to +convey by verbal description a correct idea of these celebrated rocks: +for in passing round or through them, they assume a different shape +almost every dozen yards; sometimes appearing like a continuation of the +main promontory,—sometimes as one or more lofty acuminated +pyramids,—or again we see the different masses extending in nearly a +straight line, between which we catch a distant view of Christchurch and +other objects on the opposite coast. The name (inappropriate to their +present form,) was derived from a spiry rock, 120 feet high and very +slender, which fell in the year 1764, having been nearly worn through by +the incessant action of the tides: its base however is still visible at +low water.</p> + +<blockquote><p>The <i>Pomone</i>, a fifty-gun frigate, was wrecked on the most western +of these rocks, on June 11th, 1811, when returning home after an +absence of three years; but owing to the fineness of the weather, +the crew and passengers, including some Persian princes, reached +the shore in safety; and most of her guns and stores were removed +before she went to pieces. "The vessel," says Mr. Webster, +"afforded me a scale by which to judge of the size of the Needles, +and I was surprized to find that the hull of the frigate did not +reach one-fourth of their height." The entrance to the Solent +Channel "through the Needles" was always considered hazardous for +ships of great burthen, not only on account of those rocks, but +also of the immense banks of pebbles or "Shingles" that lie to the +westward: recent surveys have however ascertained that the channel +has sufficient width and depth for the safe passage of the largest +ships of war.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>ALUM BAY.</h3> + +<p>The brilliant and novel display of rock scenery which this spot affords, +and its being easily accessible either by water or land (for a road +leads to it from the north side of the down), cause it to be universally +visited by strangers who extend their tour to this quarter of the +island. It is bounded on the south by the Needles and the snowy +precipices of which they once formed part: but its greatest celebrity is +owing to the wonderful diversity and brightness in the cliffs on the +opposite side, which are composed of sand, clay, and ochreous earths, +disposed in alternate <i>vertical</i> strata: and as the torrents of winter +carry away vast masses of the soil, forming numerous deep ravines—an +endless variety of the most beautiful peaks and romantic forms are thus +produced. The colored strata vary in thickness from a sheet of paper to +several yards; are now purely white, black, red, or yellow; then brown, +blueish, or dull green,—alternating in a surprizing manner with each +other, or blending into every hue: and many of the tints so vivid, yet +so delicate, that they are justly compared to the variegations of a +tulip, or to the shades of silk. "Alum Bay," says an eminent geologist, +"is so extraordinary a place, that I am unable to explain in adequate +terms, the surprize I felt on first seeing it. The scenery is indeed of +a species unique in this country: and nothing that I had previously seen +bore the least resemblance to it." This spot owes its name to the fact +of alum having been occasionally found on its shores.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>And now, having pointed out the most remarkable features in the cliffs, +it only remains to notice THE LIGHT-HOUSE, which is a gratifying object +of curiosity to persons unacquainted with the nature of such an +establishment, it stands near the extremity of the down, and commands a +prospect of great extent and beauty, particularly of the unrivaled +scenery of Alum Bay. The Needles are seen to most advantage from the +water: but when this has not been enjoyed, the party should cautiously +approach within a few yards of the precipice, "and to those whose nerves +are proof against the horrors of the position, the new into the bays +beneath, and of the cliffs and Needle Rocks, is extremely sublime. The +agitation and sound of the waves below are hardly perceived, and it is +scarcely possible to imagine that the quiet expanse which now seems +stretched in boundless repose under the eye, is the same turbulent +element which had but lately been seen bursting in clouds of foam, and +thundering on its rocky shore.—In hard blowing weather, the fury of the +wind on this promontory is scarcely credible. Very large flints and +fragments of chalk are blown from the cliffs, so as to endanger the +windows of the light-house; and for many days in succession, it is +scarcely possible to open the door."</p> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p>The precipices of Freshwater, like those at Bembridge, are +frequented at periodical seasons by prodigious flights of sea-fowl +of various kinds. The birds are taken by the country-people at the +hazard of their lives; they descend by means of a stout rope which +turns round a crow-bar firmly fixed in the ground above; one end of +the rope being fastened about their body, and the other end held in +their hands, by which they lower and raise themselves from ledge to +ledge of the horrid precipice. The aquatic fowl furnish most +amusing sport to numberless shooting-parties during the season. The +principal species are ... puffins, gulls, cormorants, Cornish +choughs, the eider duck, auks, divers, guillemots, razor-bills, +widgeons, willocks, daws, starlings, and pigeons. Their +breeding-season is in the months of May, June, and July, and +towards the end of August the greater part of them migrate with +their new generations. Their flesh is too rank and fishy to be +eaten, and is used only for baiting crab and lobster pots; the +feathers are valuable, and the eggs are bought chiefly by visitors +for curiosity.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>THE ROADS TO YARMOUTH, NEWPORT, &c.</h3> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>Having visited the western extremity of the Island, we +return—either by</i> <span class="smcap">Calbourne</span> <i>to Newport, which is the nearest; +or round by</i> <span class="smcap">Yarmouth</span>, <i>this being perhaps the less monotonous +road of the two.</i></p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The tourist, on leaving the magnificent scenes of the western coast, can +hardly expect to see many spots in the remainder of his journey, capable +of engaging his attention. He may still however enjoy some very charming +prospects, particularly in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth, whither we +shall now suppose him to shape his course.</p> + +<p>We shall pass two seats: <span class="smcap">Farringford</span>, on the north side of the +down, surrounded by flourishing plantations; and about a mile and a half +further, the fine old manor-house of <span class="smcap">Afton</span>.</p> + +<p>THE VILLAGE OF FRESHWATER is prettily interspersed with wood; but except +the church (whose front is more picturesque than most in the island), +has nothing to notice;—unless it should fortunately happen to be +high-tide at the time of our passing, and then the <span class="smcap">River Yar</span> +will have a lovely effect—winding between gently rising banks feathered +with grove and copse, shrouding here a mansion, and there a cottage; +while pleasure-boats and an unusual number of swans are seen gliding and +sporting on its silver bosom.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>Passing over a neat bridge, and through the fertile parish of +<span class="smcap">Thorley</span>, whose church is the plainest in the island, we reach</p> + +<h3>YARMOUTH,</h3> + +<p>Standing opposite Lymington, and once a place of considerable +importance, having obtained a charter of franchises in the reign of +Henry II: it is very clean and open,—and being situated in the +neighbourhood of the most interesting coast scenery, is upon the whole +an agreeable place, particularly for gentlemen partial to marine +pleasures. Its chief support is derived from the shipping that anchor in +its excellent roadsted, and the passengers to and from Lymington; there +are three inns—the principal one (the George,) is a large ancient +building, formerly the Governor's house, where King Charles II was +entertained by Sir Rt. Holmes on his paying the island a visit in +1667.—The Church has recently received the ornament of a new tower, and +the interior boasts a good statue of the above-named Sir Robert. The +Castle (as it is called), is a heavy, plain mass of building, +constructed in the reign of Henry VIII to protect this entrance to the +Solent Channel.</p> + +<p>The village of NORTON is on the opposite side of the river, where there +are several very respectable villas,—so sheltered by groves and +shrubberies, that the whole neighbourhood presents the delightful +appearance of a bold foreland completely shrouded in wood, even to the +water's edge.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Opposite <i>Carey's Sconce</i>, half a mile west of Norton, is HURST +CASTLE, built at the extremity of a long strip of shingly land +stretching out from the Hampshire coast, which here contracts the +width of the Solent Channel to less than a mile. Close by are two +Light-houses, erected for the purpose of assisting ships to clear +the passage through the Needles.</p></blockquote> + +<p>Four miles from Yarmouth we pass through SHALFLEET, a clean and populous +village: the Church is next the road, of a heavy construction,—yet +affording a good subject for a sketch. Northward is NEWTOWN, a very +ancient borough; which was a populous place in the time of Richard II +(when it was burned by the French, but soon afterwards rebuilt), and +though now reduced to a few humble cottages, the course of its streets +may yet be traced. It has a new church, of a neat design; and is noted +for its extensive salterns, and convenient haven.—Previously to the +passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Yarmouth and Newtown each returned +two members to parliament.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>The Road by Calbourne and Carisbrooke.</i></h3> + +<p>The direct road from Freshwater-gate to Newport runs for the first three +or four miles at the northern foot of the range of downs described at p. +89; presenting no object worthy of separate remark till we reach +CALBOURNE, a considerable village, having a decent small inn. The pretty +situation of its neat little Church and Parsonage,—the handsome mansion +and luxuriant plantations of a first-rate seat called WESTOVER, close +by,—with a small stream running through the grounds and in front of the +neighbouring cottages,—altogether produce a very pleasing scene ...</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Where sweet simplicity resides, which Grace</div> +<div>And Beauty call their own."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Two miles further we pass SWAINSTON, another principal seat: the mansion +lies below the road, surrounded by trees; a copious stream, well stored +with fish, runs through the gardens and plantations, which are extensive +and judiciously laid-out; and the prospect-temple which crowns the hill +on the right is a very conspicuous object. From hence the road is on +the slope of a series of hills, often picturesquely shrouded in groves +and hanging woods; while in the more open parts some extensive views are +presented of the north side of the island, the sea, and the opposite +coast of Hampshire; but the prospect which is opened as we descend into +Carisbrooke is particularly grand: the village makes an admirable +foreground, backed by lofty hills,—on the left we see the town of +Newport and its adjoining hamlets, with E. Cowes Park, &c. in the +distance,—and on the right,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"High o'er the pines, that with their dark'ning shade</div> +<div class="i2">Surround yon craggy bank, <span class="smcap">the Castle</span> rears</div> +<div>Its crumbling turrets: still its towering head</div> +<div class="i2">A warlike mien, a sullen grandeur wears!"</div> +</div></div> + +<hr /> + +<h3><a name="CONSPICUOUS" id="CONSPICUOUS"></a>LANDMARKS AND OTHER CONSPICUOUS OBJECTS</h3> + +<p class="center"><i>Erected on the Hills.</i></p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The fact of so many of the hills and downs being crowned with some +far-seen object, such as a light-house, obelisk, or telegraph, must be a +source of considerable interest to a traveller in the Isle of Wight, not +only by their often giving an identity and attraction to many of those +broad features of scenery which would otherwise be comparatively tame +and monotonous, but also by enabling him to determine the bearings and +situation of places in their vicinity.</p> + +<blockquote><p>We shall here name a few of the most conspicuous of these objects, +nearly in the order pursued in the preceding description of the +Tour of the Island:—most of them being visible from the +neighbourhood of Newport, which, as we have before stated, occupies +a central position. We shall therefore commence with Carisbrooke +Castle.</p> + +<p>At West Cowes—the Church-tower, and Windmills. At East +Cowes—Towers of Osborne, Norris, and East Cowes Castle. At +Wootton—the Prospect-tower of Fernhill. Southward of Ryde—a large +Windmill. On Ashey Down—the Sea-mark. At Bembridge—Mill on the +Down. Godshill—the Church: behind which, on Appuldurcombe Down, is +an Obelisk and private Signal-station. On Shanklin Down—Cooke's +Castle. St. Catharine's Down—ancient Tower, and old Light-house; +on the sea-cliffs, the new Light-house; on the northern extremity +of the down, the Alexandrian Pillar. Freshwater Downs—Light-house, +and Beacon.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3><a name="TOURS" id="TOURS"></a>TOURS OF THE ISLAND.</h3> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p>Some years ago it was customary for the then limited number of +Post-masters to adopt a regular three-days' Tour of the island, +dividing it into the North-eastern, the Southern, and the +North-western; differing but very little except as to the <i>order</i> +of the days' excursion. Not so now—for a hundred plans would +hardly describe all "the Tours" recommended by the different +inn-keepers and numerous other letters-out of vehicles for +pleasure-parties; to say nothing of the wide difference between the +visitors themselves, as regards the <i>Time</i> allowed.—We have +anticipated, we hope, every question on the subject, by the +arrangement in the preceding pages: but still it may be +satisfactory to some of our readers, to see the most generally +adopted Routes. The reader will perceive that <i>Appuldurcombe</i> is +frequently left as the object of a separate day's trip.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<h3>CONTINUED TOUR FROM RYDE.</h3> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='Continued tour from Ryde'> + <tr> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>FIRST DAY</td> + <td> </td> + <td><i>(Second day continued.)</i> </td> + <td align='right'>MILES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>MILES.</td> + <td></td> + <td>Brixton,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. John's: St. Clare, &c.,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Mottistone,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Priory,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Brooke,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Helen's Green,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Freshwater-gate,</td> + <td align='right'>4 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Bembridge (crossing ferry),</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Needles Light-house,</td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Yaverland,</td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Alum Bay,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sandown Fort and Village,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Sleep at Fr. gate or A. Bay.</td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Shanklin Chine and Village,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>20 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Luccombe Chine,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + <td></td> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>THIRD DAY</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>East End,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Yarmouth,</td> + <td align='right'>6 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Bonchurch—Ventnor,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Calbourne and Westover,</td> + <td align='right'>6 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Steephill Castle,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Swainston,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Lawrence,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Carisbrooke Village,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Niton,</td> + <td align='right'>2½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Newport,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sleep here, or at Blackgang.</td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + <td></td> + <td>Parkhurst Prison,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>23½</td> + <td></td> + <td>West Cowes,</td> + <td align='right'>4 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>SECOND DAY</td> + <td></td> + <td>East Cowes (crossing ferry),</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Catharine's Light-house,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Whippingham Church,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sandrock Spring,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Wootton-bridge,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Blackgang Chine,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Quarr Abbey,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Chale,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Ryde,</td> + <td align='right'>2½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Kingston,</td> + <td align='right'>2½</td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Shorwell and Northcourt,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>31½</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<h3><i>Tour from Ryde, in which Parties sleep but one Night in the Country.</i></h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">First Day</span>: St. Helen's 4 miles, Bembridge 1, Yaverland and +Sandown 5, Shanklin 3, Luccombe and East End 2, Bonchurch and Ventnor +2, Wroxall 2, Newchurch 4, Ryde 6—total 29 miles, or by Brading 26.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Second Day</span>: Wootton 3½, Arreton 4, Godshill and +Appuldurcombe 5, Steephill 3, St. Lawrence 1, Niton 2½, Arreton 7, +Wootton 4, Ryde 3½—total 33½ miles.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Third Day</span>: Through Wootton to Newport 7, Carisbrooke 1, +Shorwell 4, Brixton 2, Mottistone 2, Brooke 1, Freshwater-gate 4, +Needles-point 3½, Alum Bay 1,—total 25½ miles. Sleep at Fr. gate +or Alum Bay.—<span class="smcap">Fourth Day</span>: Yarmouth 6, Shalfleet 4, Barracks, +&c. 5½, West Cowes, 4, East Cowes 0½, Whippingham 2, Wootton 3, +Ryde 3½—total 28½ miles.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>GENERAL TOUR FROM COWES.</h3> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='General tour from Cowes'> + <tr> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>FIRST DAY</td> + <td> </td> + <td><i>(Second day continued.)</i> </td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>House of Industry, &c.</td> + <td align='right'>4 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Steephill Castle,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Newport,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Ventnor, and Bonchurch,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Carisbrooke Castle,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>East End,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Swainston, on the right,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Luccombe Chine,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Calbourne and Westover,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Shanklin Chine and Village,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Yarmouth,</td> + <td align='right'>6 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Sleep here, or at Ventnor</td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Alum Bay,</td> + <td align='right'>6 </td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>24 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Needles Light-house,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>THIRD DAY</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Freshwater-gate,</td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Sandown Fort and Village,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sleep here, or at Alum Bay.</td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + <td></td> + <td>Yaverland Church, &c.</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>28 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Bembridge.—Cross ferry,</td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>SECOND DAY</td> + <td></td> + <td>St. Helen's Green,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Brooke—Mottistone,</td> + <td align='right'>5 </td> + <td></td> + <td>The Priory, on the right,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Brixton,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>St. Clare—St. John's,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Shorwell and Northcourt,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Ryde,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Chale and Blackgang Chine,</td> + <td align='right'>5 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Wootton-bridge—Fernhill,</td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sandrock Spring,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Whippingham Church,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Catharine's Light-house,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>East Cowes,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Niton Village,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Lawrence Church, &c.</td> + <td align='right'>2½</td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>21½</td> + </tr> + +</table> + +<hr /> + +<h3>TOURS FROM NEWPORT.</h3> + +<p class='center'>NORTH-EASTERN TOUR</p> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='North-eastern tour'> + <tr> + <td>Fernhill—Wootton-bridge, </td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + <td> </td> + <td>Yaverland Church, &c.</td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Quarr Abbey,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Sandown Fort and Village,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Ryde,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Brading Down,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. John's—St. Clare,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Ashey Sea-mark,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Priory,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Down-end,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Helen's Green,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Newport,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Cross ferry to Bembridge,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>27 </td> + </tr> +</table> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='Southern and Western tours'> + <tr> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>SOUTHERN TOUR.</td> + <td> </td> + <td colspan='2' align='center'>WESTERN TOUR.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Arreton Church,</td> + <td align='right'>4 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Carisbrooke,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Shanklin,</td> + <td align='right'>6 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Shorwell and Northcourt, </td> + <td align='right'>4 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Luccombe—East End,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Brixton,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Bonchurch and Ventnor,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Mottistone,</td> + <td align='right'>2 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Steephill Castle,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Brooke,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Lawrence,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Freshwater-gate,</td> + <td align='right'>4 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Niton,</td> + <td align='right'>2½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Needles Light-house,</td> + <td align='right'>3½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Catharine's Light-house, </td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Alum Bay,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sandrock Spring,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Yarmouth,</td> + <td align='right'>6 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Blackgang Chine,</td> + <td align='right'>0½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Calbourne and Westover,</td> + <td align='right'>6 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Chale,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Swainston,</td> + <td align='right'>1½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Gatcombe,</td> + <td align='right'>4½</td> + <td></td> + <td>Carisbrooke Village,</td> + <td align='right'>3 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Newport,</td> + <td align='right'>4 </td> + <td></td> + <td>Newport,</td> + <td align='right'>1 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>(Or return by Rookley.)</td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + <td></td> + <td>(Or return by Shalfleet.)</td> + <td align='right'>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>29 </td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td align='right'>36 </td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<h3>A VOYAGE ROUND THE ISLAND</h3> + +<p>If the weather be favorable, will prove very interesting, and indeed be +necessary to enable us to form a just estimate of the local attractions, +since many of the scenes we have described are seen to most advantage +from the water. Steamers perform the trip two or three times a-week +during the season (usually in about eight hours): and sailing-craft from +Ryde and Cowes are often engaged by parties for the same purpose.</p> + +<p>If we sail to the eastward on leaving Cowes Harbour, the first objects +demanding our attention are Norris Castle and the royal Palace of +Osborne, with their extensive lawns sweeping to the shore, shaded by +numerous groups of noble trees. After passing the Creeks of King's Quay +and Wootton, we have a partial sight of Binstead: and a most +comprehensive view of the fashionable town of Ryde, just as we leave the +Pier. Hence to St. Helen's the coast forms several beautiful bays, lined +with gentlemen's seats and villas, hamlets, and luxuriant woods.</p> + +<p>Brading Haven, with the adjacent villages of Bembridge, St. Helen's, and +Brading,—the whole encompassed by a semi-circular range of lofty +hills—forms a very agreeable picture, especially at the time of high +water. Our readers will have no difficulty in recognising the landmark +of St. Helen's tower on the beach, and that on Ashey Down, about four +miles inland.</p> + +<p>Two miles further are the lofty Culver Cliffs, forming the north side of +Sandown Bay, on whose shores stand the village and fort of the same +name. At the southern extremity of this extensive bay rise the dark +precipices of Dunnose, penetrated by the Chines of Shanklin and +Luccombe. Near the latter commences the celebrated tract called the +Undercliff, whose varied and unique charms are nowhere so advantageously +seen as from the water, "whence it rises like a series of gigantic steps +that seem to lead from the lofty cliffs on the shore, to the summit of +the grand perpendicular wall" that bounds it on the land-side.—East +End, the lovely village of Bonchurch, the fast-increasing town of +Ventnor, and the stately castle of Steephill, are all fully presented to +our view: and less distinctly through the groves in which they are for +the most part embosomed, the villas of St. Lawrence, Old Park, Mirables, +&c. Beyond the pretty little cove of Puckaster we see part of Niton +village; and close to the shore, the gigantic tower of the Light-house. +A mile further is the Sandrock Spring, in the midst of a wild tract, +that terminates in the gloomy ravine called Blackgang Chine, backed by +the tower-crowned eminence of St. Catharine's Hill.</p> + +<p>Hence to Compton Bay the coast is dreary and comparatively monotonous; +but we have a tolerable view of some of the smaller chines, and also of +the fine range of downs that stretch from the centre of the island to +its western extremity. Almost the whole extent of Freshwater Cliffs +meets the eye at once: but there is no great difficulty in recognizing +the most noted rocks, caves, &c. as we pass along. The various forms +which are exhibited by those huge masses of chalk the Needles, as we +approach and leave them, in connection with the beautiful precipices of +Scratchell's Bay, form perhaps the most interesting circumstance of our +voyage: the light-house seems placed on the very brink of the precipice: +and the brilliant scenery of Alum Bay will appear to advantage, +especially if it be a sunny afternoon.</p> + +<p>Beyond this the coast consists of steep broken slopes and earthy cliffs, +some of them of considerable altitude, but presents no object of +particular interest till we near the river Yar, with its adjacent town +and villas: Newtown Creek opens about three miles further on. West +Cowes, as we approach it from Thorness Bay, has a beautiful aspect, +numerous genteel villas and first-rate lodging-houses covering the shore +for nearly a mile: and the ever-amusing scene of Cowes harbour will form +a delightful termination to our voyage.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>The Passage and Conveyance.</h3> + +<hr /> + +<p class='center'>JUNE 1, 1849.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>BY STEAM-PACKETS.</h3> + +<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>Strangers are particularly requested to attend to the following +recommendation.</i>—We have always made it a point to delay the +publication of our Guides to as late a period as we well could +(often to a degree of inconvenience), in order that our readers may +be furnished with an accurate statement of the precise time of the +several passage-vessels starting to or from the island: but this, +instead of an advantage, often proved a disappointment: for perhaps +a change of hours unexpectedly took place within a week or +fortnight afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the +time of the railways, or from some motive on the part of one or +other of the steam-packet companies. We therefore particularly +advise strangers to make inquiry at the local inns, on board the +packets, or at the railway or booking offices, in all cases where +it is of important consequence to know exactly to a minute.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + + +<p class='center'><i>Between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde, & Portsmouth.</i></p> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='Steam packets between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde and Portsmouth'> + <tr> + <td>FROM</td> + <td align='center'>MORN.</td> + <td align='center'>AFT.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>South'n to Cowes at.</td> + <td align='right'>3½ 8.40 10.40—</td> + <td>1¾ 4.40 7</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td align='right'>Ryde and Portsmo.</td> + <td align='right'>8.40 10.40—</td> + <td>1¾ 4.40</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Portsmouth to Cowes</td> + <td align='right'>8.40 10—</td> + <td>2 4½ 6½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td align='right'>Southampton</td> + <td align='right'>8.40 10—</td> + <td>2 4½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Ryde to Cowes</td> + <td align='right'>9¼ 10½—</td> + <td>2½ 5 7</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td align='right'>Southampton</td> + <td align='right'>9¼ 10½—</td> + <td>2½ 5</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Cowes to Ryde</td> + <td align='right'>10 12—</td> + <td>3½ 6¼</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td align='right'>Portsmouth</td> + <td align='right'>6¾ 10 12—</td> + <td>3½ 6.15</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td align='right'>South'n.</td> + <td align='right'>8¾ 10.40 12—</td> + <td>3¾ 6¼ 8¾</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>South'n to East Cowes</td> + <td align='right'>3½ 10.40—</td> + <td>1¾ 4.40</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>E. Cowes to South'ton.</td> + <td align='right'>8.35 11.50—</td> + <td>3.35 6</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class='center'>On Sundays the passages are less frequent.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class='center'><i>Portsmouth, Portsea, Gosport, and Ryde.</i></p> + +<p>From Gosport at 8.10, 9.45, 10.50, 11.50, 1½, 2½, 5¼, 6.35. +From Portsea at 8.15, 9.50, 10.55 11.55, 1.35, 2.35, 5.25, 6.40. +From Portsmouth each passage five minutes later.</p> + +<p>From Ryde at 7.20, 9, 11, 12, 1¼, 2½, 4¼, & 6.</p> + +<p class='center'>ON SUNDAYS:</p> + +<p>From Portsmouth at 8, 3, and 5.<br />From Ryde at 9, 4, and 6.</p> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>In the height of the season, steamers leave Southampton for Cowes on +the arrival of every Railway train,—and Cowes for Southampton in time +to meet every Train: and between Portsmouth and Ryde run about every +hour from 7 to 7.</i></p> + +<hr /> + +<blockquote><p>From <span class="smcap">Lymington</span>—the <i>Glasgow</i> runs to Yarmouth three or +four times a-day: the <i>Solent</i> every morning to Cowes, whence she +proceeds on alternate days to Southampton and Portsmouth—and by +suiting her time to that of the other steamers, maintains a daily +communication between all these places.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The steamers from Portsmouth, Southampton, and Lymington, tow +horse-boats across.</p> + +<p>During summer, Steamers frequently make trips round the island, usually +in about seven hours.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class='center'><i>Regular Sailing Passage-boats.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">From Cowes</span> to <span class="smcap">Newport</span>, daily: the hours depending upon +the state of the tide.</p> + +<p>From <span class="smcap">Wootton</span> to <span class="smcap">Portsmouth</span> at 9 and 4 (3 or earlier in +winter), daily: and from Portsmouth at 9 and 2½.</p> + +<p>From <span class="smcap">Bembridge</span> to Portsmouth and back, every other day, or +oftener, in summer.</p> + +<p>To <span class="smcap">Poole</span> the sailing-hoys run twice a-week, calling off Cowes +and Yarmouth.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>Land-Conveyances.</h3> + +<p>The STAGE-COACHES.—The following are the summer arrangements for +1849:—</p> + +<p>From Newport to Ryde, at 8, 12½, 2¾, and 5¼.<br /> +From Ryde at 9¼, 11, 3½, and 6½.</p> + +<p>From Newport to West Cowes at 8, 9½, 2½, and 5½.<br /> +Cowes to Newport at 10, 12, 3½, and 6½.</p> + +<p>West Cowes to Ventnor (thro' Newport, Blackgang, and Niton,) at 10, returning at 3. +Ventnor to East Cowes (through Godshill and Newport,) at 8½, returning at 3.</p> + +<p>From Ryde to Ventnor at 9½, 11, and 3. Ventnor to Ryde at 8½, 1¾, and 3. Passing through Brading, +Sandown, and Shanklin.</p> + +<blockquote><p>Most of the coaches omit travelling on Sundays.</p></blockquote> + +<p>It will be seen that by these conveyances, visitors arriving at Cowes or +Ryde in the morning may make the tour of one-half the island the same +day. If from Ryde in the morning, they would be returned to Cowes in +time for the last packet across, and the same from the latter to the +former place.</p> + +<blockquote><p>But here we must caution our friends, as we did respecting the +steam-packets, that frequent alterations take place in the hours of +starting, perhaps in consequence of some change made by the +vessels, but as often induced by the caprice of the rival +speculators; some of them continuing throughout the year, and +others running only during the summer.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The <span class="smcap">Carriers</span>.—These of late have so increased, that there is +scarcely a village without one or more to Newport or Ryde,—between the +latter places there are three every day; between Cowes, Newport, and +Ventnor, several carts and vans daily; and from the less populous +parishes, one every other day.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3><a name="INNS" id="INNS"></a>List of the Principal Inns.</h3> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='List of the principal Inns'> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Newport,—</span></td> + <td>the Bugle—Mew.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Star—Bryant.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Wheat-sheaf, Corn-market—J. Read.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Green Dragon, Pyle-street—R. Read.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Swan, High-street—Wardle.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Ryde,—</span></td> + <td>Pier Hotel—Rendall.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Hotel, Union-street—Yelf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Kent, ditto—Pegg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Crown, near the theatre—Woodrow.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Hotel, near the pier—Beazley.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Star, upper part of the town—Locke.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Hotel & Boarding-house—Weeks.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Spring-vale,—</span></td> + <td>Tavern—Heath.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">West Cowes,——</span></td> + <td>Fountain, on the quay—Webb.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Vine, adjoining; ditto—Roper.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Marine Hotel, Parade—Helmore.</td> + </tr> <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Globe, ditto—Aris.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">East Cowes,—</span></td> + <td>Medina Hotel—Drew.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Prince of Wales, nr. toll-gate—Tucker.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Yarmouth,—</span></td> + <td>George—Bright.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Bugle—Butler.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Freshwater,—</span></td> + <td>Hotel. Fr. gate—Plumbly.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Albion Hotel, ditto—Groves.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Needles Hotel, Alum Bay—Groves.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Blackgang Chine,—</span></td> + <td>Hotel—Brooks.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Niton,—</span></td> + <td>Royal Sandrock Hotel—Kent.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Boarding-house, on the shore—Bailey.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>White Lion, Niton village—Bright.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Buddle Inn—</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Ventnor,—</span></td> + <td>Hotel—Riles.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Marine Hotel—Bush.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Crab and Lobster—Cass.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Commercial Inn—Cummins.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Bonchurch,—</span></td> + <td>Hotel—Ribbands.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Shanklin,—</span></td> + <td>Williams's Hotel—Hale.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td>Hotel—Daish.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Sandown,—</span></td> + <td>King's-head—Thomas.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Bembridge,—</span></td> + <td>Hotel, on the beach—Fletcher.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Brading,—</span></td> + <td>Wheat-sheaf—Lale.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Calbourne,—</span></td> + <td>Sun—Woodford.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Godshill,—</span></td> + <td>Griffin—Smith.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Brixton,—</span></td> + <td>New Inn—Sanders.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<h4>LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL</h4> + +<h2>SEATS & COUNTRY-VILLAS</h2> + +<h4>WITH THE NAMES OF</h4> + +<h3>Their Proprietors or Occupiers.</h3> + +<hr /> + +<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>In those instances where no Occupiers' Names appear, such Residences +are generally to be sold or let.</i></p> + +<hr /> + +<table summary='List of the principal country villas'> + <tr> + <td>OSBORNE,</td> + <td>Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>APPULDURCOMBE,</td> + <td>Earl Yarborough.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Afton Manor-house,</td> + <td>B. Cotton, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Appley, near Ryde,</td> + <td>J. Hyde, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Beauchamp, Undercliff,</td> + <td>Sir W. Gordon, bt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Bellecroft, near Newport,</td> + <td>J. Cooke, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Bembridge Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. F.G. Middleton.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Billingham, near Kingston</td> + <td>W. Stancombe, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Binstead Cottage,</td> + <td>Lord Downes.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>------ Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. Philip Hewitt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Blackwater Cottage, S. of Newport, </td> + <td>J. Rutherford, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Brixton Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. E. McAll.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Brook Manor-house,</td> + <td>James How, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Brookfield Cottage, Binstead,</td> + <td>Rev. Aug. Hewitt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Calbourne Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. R. Sumner.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Castlehurst, nr. Carisbrooke,</td> + <td>H. Pinnock, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Chale Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. A. Gother.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Costorphine-hill, Ryde,</td> + <td>J.P. Lind, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>EAST COWES CASTLE,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>East Dene, Bonchurch,</td> + <td>Capt. Swinburne.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Egypt House, nr. W. Cowes,</td> + <td>Sir T. Tancred, bt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Elm Cottage, near E. Cowes,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>FAIRLEE, N.E. of Newport,</td> + <td>Rd. Oglander, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Fairlee Cottage, ditto,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Fairy-hill, Nettlestone,</td> + <td>W.A. Glynn, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Farringford-hill, Freshwater,</td> + <td>Rev. G. Seymour.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>FERNHILL, Wootton,</td> + <td>Samuel Sanders, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>GATCOMBE PARK,</td> + <td>Captain Berners.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Gatcombe Rectory,</td> + <td>Rev. W. Thompson, D.D.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Hampstead, near Shalfleet,</td> + <td>Mrs. Nash.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Haylands, south of Ryde,</td> + <td>Captain Locke.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Hill-grove, Bembridge,</td> + <td>Hon. A.H. Moreton.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Holmwood, Ryde,</td> + <td>T.B. Maynard, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Kite-hill, Wootton,</td> + <td>Sir H. Brook, bt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Lowcliff Lodge, Blackgang,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Mill-hill, West Cowes,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Medina Hermitage, nr. Niton,</td> + <td>W.H. Dawes, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Mirables, Undercliff, ditto,</td> + <td>Mrs. Arnold.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Mount Cleeves House, ditto,</td> + <td>the Misses Simes.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Moor House, near W. Cowes,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Mottistone House,</td> + <td>R. Jessett, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>New Close, s.w. of Newport,</td> + <td>T. Cooke, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Ningwood House,</td> + <td>Rev. —— Cottell.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Niton Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. R. Dixon.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>NORRIS, near E. Cowes,</td> + <td>R. Bell, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>NORTHCOURT, Shorwell,</td> + <td>H.P. Gordon, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Shide Cottage, S. of Newport,</td> + <td>Col. Napier.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>NORTHWOOD PARK,</td> + <td>G.H. Ward, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Norton Lodge, Freshwater,</td> + <td>Sir G. Hamond, bt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>NUNWELL, near Brading,</td> + <td>Sir W. Oglander, bt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Oakhill, near Ryde,</td> + <td>T.M. Leacock, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Old Park, Undercliff,</td> + <td>J. Walkinshaw, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Orchard, ditto, near Niton,</td> + <td>Sir W. Gordon, bt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Padmore, Whippingham,</td> + <td>Rev. James Jolliffe.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Pidford, near Rookley,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Pitt-place, Mottistone,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>PRIORY, <span class="smcap">n</span>. of St. Helen's,</td> + <td>H. Smith, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Puckaster Cottage, Undercliff,</td> + <td>Mrs. Vine.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Puckpool, east of Ryde,</td> + <td>Lewis Wyatt, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Ryde House,</td> + <td>Miss Player.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Rookley Cottage,</td> + <td>John Woodward, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Rosiere, Niton,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sealand Cottage, Blackgang,</td> + <td>R. Pinnock, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Clare, east of Ryde,</td> + <td>Col. Vernon Harcourt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>ST. JOHN'S, ditto,</td> + <td>A.F. Hamilton, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Lawrence Villa,</td> + <td>Earl Yarborough.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>------ Cottage,</td> + <td>Hon. Capt. D. Pelham.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>St. Thomas' Villa, E. Cowes,</td> + <td>Miss Barrington.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sea-grove, Nettlestone,</td> + <td>W. Gardiner esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sea-field, ditto,</td> + <td>Henry Beach, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Spring-field, ditto</td> + <td>John Callender, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Steane Villa, Bembridge,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Shanklin Parsonage,</td> + <td>Archdeacon Hill.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Shorwell Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. E. Robertson.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Slatwoods, near East Cowes,</td> + <td>Miss Shedden.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Southlands House, Blackgang,</td> + <td>——</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Spring-hill, ditto,</td> + <td>George Shedden, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Standen, south of Newport,</td> + <td>General Evelegh.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>STEEPHILL CASTLE,</td> + <td>J. Hambrough, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Stickworth, south of Arreton,</td> + <td>Mrs. Bell.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Stonepits' Cottage, Binstead,</td> + <td>Capt. Brigstocke.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>SWAINSTON, nr. Calbourne,</td> + <td>Sir Rd. Simeon, bt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Battery, Sandown,</td> + <td>T. Woodham, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Farm, nr. Newport,</td> + <td>B. Mew, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Marina, Norton,</td> + <td>Capt. Crozier.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Tower Cottage, Shanklin,</td> + <td>— Cameron, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Uplands, east of Ryde,</td> + <td>C. Payne, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Upton House, south of Ryde,</td> + <td>Admiral Hoare.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Wacklands, s. of Newchurch,</td> + <td>William Thatcher, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>WESTOVER, Calbourne,</td> + <td>Hon. A'Court Holmes.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Westhill, Cowes,</td> + <td>the Misses Ward.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>------ Norton,</td> + <td>R.B. Crozier, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Westcliff, Niton,</td> + <td>Captain Ker.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Westridge, east of Ryde,</td> + <td>Mrs. Young.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Westbrook, ditto,</td> + <td>J. Le Marchant, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Whitcomb, near Gatcombe,</td> + <td>Mrs. Hughes.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Woodlands, east of Ryde,</td> + <td>J. Percival, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Woodvale, near Gurnard</td> + <td>Captain Ffarington.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Wootton Parsonage.</td> + <td>Rev. R.W. White.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Yafford, near Shorwell,</td> + <td>James Jolliffe, esq.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Yaverland Parsonage,</td> + <td>Rev. R. Sherson.</td> + </tr> + +</table> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/map_lg.jpg" id="map_lg.jpg"><img src="images/map_sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 525px; border: 0" alt="Map of the Isle of Wight" /><br />Map of the Isle of Wight</a></p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 16356-h.txt or 16356-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/3/5/16356">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/3/5/16356</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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