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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight, by
+George Brannon
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight
+       The Expeditious Traveller's Index to Its Prominent Beauties & Objects of Interest. Compiled Especially with Reference to Those Numerous Visitors Who Can Spare but Two or Three Days to Make the Tour of the Island.
+
+
+Author: George Brannon
+
+
+
+Release Date: July 24, 2005  [eBook #16356]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF
+WIGHT***
+
+
+E-text prepared by richyfourtytwo, Martin Pettit, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
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+      See 16356-h.htm or 16356-h.zip:
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+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/3/5/16356/16356-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT;
+
+Or
+
+The Expeditious Traveller's Index to Its Prominent Beauties & Objects
+of Interest. Compiled Especially with Reference to Those Numerous
+Visitors Who Can Spare but Two or Three Days to Make the Tour of the
+Island.
+
+Printed and Published by George Brannon, Wootton, Isle of Wight
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Pulpit Rock, Bonchurch, looking towards Ventnor.]
+
+
+[Illustration: NORRIS, I.W.]
+
+
+
+
+EXPLANATION.
+
+
+If nearly FORTY YEARS' RESIDENCE in the Isle of Wight may be allowed in
+some degree to qualify an ARTIST for the office of Guide, the Author has
+a fair claim to public patronage,--for few could have had better
+opportunity of acquiring local information.
+
+He has endeavoured to render THE PICTURE an intelligent _Cicerone_,
+without being too garrulous or grandiloquous,--but always attentive to
+the stranger, leading him to every remarkable object, and giving just as
+much description of each, as would be acceptable to persons enjoying the
+full use of their eyes. It affords him, _at first glance_, an INDEX of
+what ought to be seen, and _how best seen in the shortest time_, in
+every place to which he may be successively conducted. This novelty in
+the work will prove very frequently of great utility, especially to
+those visitors who have too little time for their trip, and who, for
+want of such a laconic memento wherever they go, are known in a thousand
+instances to pass by the most interesting objects unnoticed,--not being
+aware even of their proximity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+This being the production of the same hand as several other local
+works, it is due to the stranger to explain in what respects they
+differ:--
+
+I.--THE VECTIS SCENERY is a handsome volume in Royal Quarto,
+substantially bound, containing 36 highly finished line-engravings of
+all the most celebrated landscapes, accompanied with ample letter-press
+descriptions, price £1.5.0.
+
+II.--THE PICTURE differs from the above in being intended for a
+_hand-book_, it is in fact a Cicerone, and therefore occasionally dwells
+with a degree of minuteness which could be interesting only to a person
+actually on the spot; but the "Vectis Scenery" takes the higher rank of
+an Exhibitor of picturesque scenes which ask little aid from verbal
+explanation, and is entitled to a place on the drawing-room table with
+other works of Art. The Engravings in the two publications are quite
+different.
+
+III.--The PLEASURE-VISITOR'S COMPANION is a compendium of useful
+information, with the different Tours, &c. and Views of the Country
+Inns, price 2s., or with Map, 3s.
+
+IV.--The REV. LEGH RICHMOND'S DESCRIPTION of the Island, with
+explanatory Notes and illustrative Engravings, price 2s.6d.
+
+V.--A MAP of the Island and the Opposite Coast--with the Tours, &c., in
+cover, price 1s.6d.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     It were useless to complain of the piracies committed upon the
+     Author's labors, both literary and pictorial, by parties in London
+     as well as in the country; but he may be allowed however to remark,
+     that some of the most common facts and delineations are strangely
+     perverted from the Truth in their new dress,--however artfully
+     disguised to prevent the consequences of palpable detection.
+
+     In cases even where a professional Author may be engaged by a
+     publisher on a local work, the time allowed is generally too
+     limited for acquiring accurate knowledge of his subjects: he must
+     depend either on prior publications or on his personal intercourse
+     with the residents, for much of his information. In compiling from
+     the first of these sources, he is very liable to mis-statement, by
+     investing everything in a new dress to conceal his piracies; and
+     the latter source leaves him open to imposition--for much of his
+     matter will be sheer gossip, partial statements, or unfounded
+     tradition, which a long experience only could detect, and place in
+     a proper light.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.--GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+                                                          PAGE
+  Its Peculiar Advantages for a Summer's Excursion,          9
+  Climate, Situation, and Extent,                           15
+  Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology,                        18
+  Eminent Natives, and Outline of the Local History,        21
+
+CHAPTER II.--THE THREE PRINCIPAL TOWNS, AND THEIR ENVIRONS.
+  Carisbrooke Castle and Village,                           25
+  Newport and its Environs,                                 29
+  East and West Cowes, and their Environs,                  34
+  Objects on the road between Cowes and Ryde,               43
+  Ryde and its Environs,                                    45
+  St. Helen's, Bembridge, Sandown, Brading, &c.,            52
+
+CHAPTER III--THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
+    _Distinguished for its Romantic Scenery._
+  Shanklin Chine and Village,                               59
+  Cooke's Castle, and Luccombe Chine,                       63
+  East End, commencement of the Undercliff,                 64
+  Bonchurch, and Ventnor,                                   65
+  Appuldurcombe and Godshill,                               71
+  Steephill, and St. Lawrence,                              73
+  The Undercliff, between St. Lawrence and Niton,           76
+  The New Light-house, and the Sandrock Spring,             79
+  Blackgang Chine, and St. Catharine's Hill,                81
+  Wrecks on the Southern Coast,                             85
+  Chale, Gatcombe, Shorwell, Brixton, &c.,                  87
+
+CHAPTER IV.--THE SOUTH-WESTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
+    _Distinguished for the most Sublime Scenery._
+  The Road over the Downs to Freshwater,                    89
+  Freshwater Cliffs, Bay, and Caverns,                      90
+  High-down, Main-bench, and Scratchell's Bay,              93
+  Needle Rocks, Alum Bay, Light-house, &c.,                 95
+  Freshwater Village, Yarmouth, Calbourne, &c.,             97
+
+Conspicuous Objects on the Hills,                          100
+Tours through, and Voyage round the Island,                101
+Lists of the Inns and Seats. Passage and Conveyance, &c.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
+
+
+                                                              PAGE
+    I--NORRIS CASTLE,                              _Frontispiece_.
+
+   II--PULPIT ROCK, Bonchurch,                       _Title-page_.
+
+  III--CARISBROOKE CASTLE,                                      24
+
+   IV--WEST COWES: the Castle, Parade, &c.,                     36
+
+    V--OSBOURNE, Her Majesty's Marine Residence,                40
+
+   VI--Town and Pier of RYDE,                                   44
+
+  VII--View from Bembridge Down,                                52
+
+ VIII--SHANKLIN Chine; descent to the beach,                    60
+
+   IX--Shanklin Church,                                         64
+
+    X--COOKE'S CASTLE,                                       _ib._
+
+   XI--The ancient Parish-church of BONCHURCH,                  68
+
+  XII--VENTNOR, near the Church,                             _ib._
+
+ XIII--STEEPHILL Castle and adjacent Coast,                     72
+
+  XIV--ST. LAWRENCE CHURCH,                                     76
+
+   XV--St. Lawrence Well,                                    _ib._
+
+  XVI--The UNDERCLIFF near Mount Cleeves.                       80
+
+ XVII--The new LIGHT-HOUSE near Niton,                       _ib._
+
+XVIII--BLACKGANG CHINE,                                         84
+
+  XIX--FRESHWATER BAY,                                          92
+
+   XX--WATCOMBE BAY,                                         _ib._
+
+  XXI--SCRATCHELL'S Bay and the Needle Rocks,                   96
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE PECULIAR ADVANTAGES OF THE ISLAND AS THE OBJECT OF A SUMMER'S
+EXCURSION.
+
+
+Variety is the characteristic charm of the Isle of Wight; the scenery
+being in fact a most happy combination of the grand and romantic, the
+sylvan and marine--throughout a close interchange of hills and dales,
+intersected by streams and rivers: combining the quiet of rural life
+with the fashionable gaiety of a watering-place, or the bustle of a
+crowded sea-port. But generally, its landscapes are more distinguished
+for beauty than sublimity, and hence the very appropriate designation of
+"THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND!" an emphatic compliment cheerfully paid by the
+thousands annually visiting its shores for pleasure or for health: and
+perhaps there is scarcely another spot in the kingdom, of the same
+narrow limits, which can concentrate more of those qualities that at
+once charm the eye and animate the soul. Nor should it be overlooked how
+large a source of interest is derived from the proximity of those two
+celebrated towns, Southampton and Portsmouth: and the beautiful
+termination given to most of the open prospects by the retiring
+distances on the opposite coast.
+
+                 ----"Intermixture sweet,
+    Of lawns and groves, of open and retired,
+    Vales, farms, towns, villas, castles, distant spires.
+    And hills on hills with ambient clouds enrolled,
+    In long succession court the lab'ring sight."
+
+But the crowning beauty of the Island is certainly THE SEA! viewed in
+all the splendor of its various aspects;--whether under the awful
+grandeur of the agitated and boundless _Ocean_,--as a rapid and
+magnificent _River_,--or reposing in all the glassy tranquillity of a
+spacious land-locked _Bay_:--now of a glowing crimson, and now of the
+purest depth of azure: its bosom ever spangled with a thousand moving
+and attractive objects of marine life.
+
+To those who have never had the opportunity of viewing the sea except
+under the comparatively dreary aspect which it presents from many
+unsheltering parts of the southern coast, as for instance Brighton,
+where almost the only relief to the monotony of the wide expanse is a
+few clumsy fishing boats or dusky colliers, and occasionally the rolling
+clouds of smoke from a passing steamer,--it may seem that we are rather
+disposed to exaggerate the picture; but not so, as would certainly be
+attested by every one who had visited the island: for here the scene is
+ever enriched by magnificent SHIPS OF WAR, innumerable merchant-vessels,
+and splendid pleasure-yachts, safely lying at anchor or gaily sailing
+about in every direction; and what moving object in the world can
+surpass, in grandeur, beauty, and interest, a fine ship under full
+canvass with a light breeze? Let the reader only imagine how glorious a
+sight it must have been, when 200 sail,--line-of-battle-ships, frigates,
+and large merchantmen under convoy, would weigh anchor at the same time,
+and proceeding on their voyage, _pass round the island_ as it were in
+review!--thus affording a spectacle, as they floated
+
+    "O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,"
+
+never to be erased from the memory of those who had once the
+incomparable pleasure to witness it. True it is, that in these happier
+times of peace, such exhibitions are not to be expected: but frequently
+even now, very large fleets of merchantmen, and perhaps several
+men-of-war, which have put in through distress of weather, or been
+detained by contrary winds, will all at the same moment weigh anchor at
+the first favorable change. [Footnote: The glories of the olden time
+have of late years been frequently revived at the departure of
+Experimental and other squadrons rendezvousing at Spithead,--accompanied
+as they sometimes are by hundreds of sailing-craft and steamers,
+including the beautiful yachts of all the neighbouring clubs.]
+
+We think it ridiculous to attribute qualities to the island (as is
+often done,) which it really does not possess: all we contend for is,
+that few spots can excel the Wight _altogether in the amount of its_
+VARIOUS _attractions_; we mean especially to those parties who can only
+snatch occasionally a very brief period for a summer excursion; not only
+as regards its _peculiar and acknowledged local advantages_, but equally
+so from those adventitious and auxiliary circumstances that are derived
+from the present _rail-road_ conveyance from the metropolis: and from
+the _shortness_ and _perfect safety_ of the passage across--being little
+more than an hour from Southampton, and only half that time from
+Portsmouth; the former an important mercantile port and fashionable
+watering-place; and the latter, the first naval station in the
+kingdom--its marine treasures too thrown open gratuitously to public
+inspection: and what curiosity can afford a Briton more gratification,
+than to visit such a dock-yard, and pace the deck of the very ship in
+which _Victory_ crowned the last moments of the immortal Nelson?
+
+Though the island has to boast of many passages of highly romantic and
+_brilliant_ scenery, yet the predominant character of its landscapes is,
+as was hinted above, calculated to amuse, to delight, and promote
+_cheerfulness_, rather than to astonish or impress the spectator with
+feelings of awe by their stupendous grandeur; circumstances which,
+combined with its salubrity of climate, render it a most desirable
+retreat to the valetudinarian and nervous invalid: indeed all the
+alterations which have latterly been made, or are now in progress, tend
+to soften, embellish, and in point of convenience to improve the face of
+the country. On this subject however it will be a question with many
+persons of good taste, whether any of these artificial operations are
+really improvements upon the native character of the island. An artist
+would most probably decide in the negative: but we know there are many
+nevertheless, who consider that whatever deterioration the island may
+experience in some of her more wild and romantic features, is amply
+compensated by the spread of cultivation and rural decoration, by the
+increased facilities of travelling, and the multiplied means of
+enjoyment now afforded to the pleasure-tourist.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A few particulars will suffice for the present, to prove the above
+assertions, and may perhaps be found
+
+USEFUL HINTS TO STRANGERS
+
+Purposing a visit to the shores of the Garden of England. They may
+arrange to breakfast comfortably at the usual hour in London--start by
+the rail-road, and reach either of the above ports at noon, or even
+earlier--steam-packets are in readiness to convey the passengers across,
+and stage-coaches and other vehicles await their arrival at Cowes and
+Ryde: our friends may then _ride round one-half_ of the island, and
+return the next, or even _the same night!_ but this of course is
+abridging the affair a little too much. But allow a full week, and that
+will suffice to render it a very pleasant trip. If, for example, you
+come to Southampton, sleep there, or at least tarry a few hours in the
+examination of it: then take the last steamer to Cowes or Ryde, and
+sleep there the first night: next morning commence the regular Tour of
+three days, dining and sleeping twice or thrice at one or other of the
+inns situated on the rocky side of the island, to enjoy at the same time
+the more unusual feast of a wide prospect of the sea, and the music of
+the foaming breakers thundering on the beach below. Supposing you start
+from Cowes, as being opposite Southampton, the Route will bring you
+round to Ryde; where you cross to Portsmouth, and having gone over the
+fortifications, the dock-yard, and Nelson's ship, return by one or other
+of the rail-roads. But if you arrive by Portsmouth and Ryde, then return
+_via_ Cowes and 'Hampton.--For the details of the several routes, the
+reader is of course referred to the chapter "Tours," at the end of the
+Work.
+
+That part of the island immediately opposite Hampshire is generally
+well-wooded, with an easy descent to the shore--populous and busy, as
+might be expected from the two considerable watering-places before
+named, and several excellent harbors. But the south side (familiarly
+called _the Back of the Island_,) being washed by the impetuous tides of
+the ocean, presents a very different aspect, showing the resistless
+progress of the waves:--and hence perpendicular cliffs of great
+altitude, precipitous slopes constantly detaching large masses of earth
+and rocks, and all the picturesque confusion produced by successive
+landslips: here therefore the scenery is variously characterized by
+dreary devastation, romantic beauty, or sublime splendor of effect. But
+not so of _the Interior_ of the island, which presents the softer
+pictures of pastoral and rural life: for ...
+
+    "Creation's mildest charms are here combined,"
+
+enlivened by several splendid mansions, with their parks and groves. The
+churches are numerous: some "embosomed soft in trees," and others
+picturesquely seated on commanding knolls: and many of the highest hills
+are adorned by a light-house or signal-station--some lofty obelisk,
+tower, or mill; so that in every direction a conspicuous object gives an
+interest and discriminative identity to those broad features of scenery,
+which would otherwise be perfectly tame and monotonous.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Situation, Extent, Climate, &c._
+
+The Isle of Wight extends from east to west 23 miles, by about 14 from
+north to south (being very nearly the figure of a lozenge),
+circumscribes at least 60 miles, and contains upwards of 100,000 acres.
+It is separated from the Hampshire coast by a strait called the SOLENT
+SEA, varying from three to seven miles in width: and bounded by the
+British Channel on the south--the nearest part of the French coast being
+Cherbourg (18 leagues distant), which is said to have been seen from the
+hills of Freshwater, &c. The extent of the English coast visible in
+clear weather is above 100 miles, from Beachy Head in Sussex, to the
+Isle of Portland in Dorset.
+
+THE CLIMATE.--The purity of the air was always acknowledged by those who
+ever visited the island owing to the dry and highly cultivated face of
+the country: but it was left to an eminent Physician, Dr. James Clarke,
+to give due celebrity to the unrivaled salubrity of the climate:--
+
+"The Island, from the variety which it presents in point of elevation,
+soil, and aspect, and from the configuration of its hills and shores,
+possesses several peculiarities of climate and situation, which render
+it a very favorable and commodious residence throughout the year, for a
+large class of invalids. On this account, the Isle of Wight claims our
+particular attention, as it comprehends within itself advantages which
+are of great value to the delicate invalid, and to obtain which, in
+almost any other part of England, he would require to make a
+considerable journey." And he further remarks, that "the Undercliff bids
+fair to exceed all other winter residences in this country, and the
+island will have added to its title of the Garden of England, that of
+the BRITISH MADEIRA."
+
+The classical designation of the island is VECTA or VECTIS: but its
+modern name is derived from Wect, With, or Wict, as it is found
+variously written in Doomsday Book.
+
+     Some writers have supposed the island to have been once connected
+     with the mainland by an isthmus stretching from Gurnet, near Cowes,
+     to Leap, on the Hampshire roast; but nothing decisive has yet been
+     advanced in support of this strange hypothesis.
+
+The surface of the island presents a constant succession of valley and
+eminence--the two principal chains of hills being ... a range of chalk
+downs of a smooth rounded shape, and from 500 to 700 feet high, that
+stretch lengthways through the middle of the island, abutting the ocean
+at Freshwater on the west, and Bembridge on the east:-and a still
+loftier range, variously composed of chalk, firestone, &c., that skirts
+the south-eastern coast from Shanklin Down to St. Catharine's (the
+latter 830 feet in height,) and whose broken flank on the sea-side forms
+the celebrated and romantic region of the UNDERCLIFF.
+
+The principal streams in the Isle of Wight navigable for marine craft
+are the Rivers Medina and Yar, and the Creeks of Newtown and
+Wootton.--The Medina, whose source is in the south, and which joins the
+sea at Cowes, divides the island into two hundreds of nearly equal
+extent, respectively called the East and West Medene; the first
+comprising 14, the latter 16 parishes.
+
+The population of the island has doubled since 1802, and now exceeds
+45,000. No manufacture of any consequence is carried on (with the
+exception of the lace-factory near Newport,) Corn being the staple
+article of trade,--for which there are about 42 mills, nearly all of
+them worked by water.
+
+Almost encompassed by formidable rocks and shelves, few parts of the
+English coast are more dangerous to ships driving in a storm. The most
+dreaded parts are the Needles and Shingles, at the western point;
+Rocken-end Race at the south, and Bembridge Ledge at the eastern
+extremity: few winters pass without the melancholy catastrophe of
+shipwreck; though the danger is now of course diminished by the
+establishment of Light-houses--especially of the new one near
+Niton.--Owing to this cause, and to the precipitous nature of the coast
+itself, the island presents few points favorable to an enemy's landing,
+and even those were for the most part fortified by order of Henry VIII:
+The forts of Sandown, Cowes, and Yarmouth still remain; and though they
+might be of little use in the present state of military science, the
+presence of "England's wooden walls" at the stations of Spithead and St.
+Helen's, renders all local defences needless.
+
+_Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology_.
+
+The island presents many rare geological phenomena: and from its
+smallness, easy access, and the various nature of its coasts, offers an
+admirable field for scientific investigation.
+
+One peculiarity deserves to be particularly noticed; namely, the
+extraordinary state in which the FLINTS are found in the great range of
+chalk hills,--for all those in regular beds, are broken into pieces in
+every direction, from two or three inches long, to an almost impalpable
+powder; and yet show no other indication of their fracture than very
+fine lines, until the investing chalk be removed, when they fall at once
+to pieces! But the separate flints or nodules in the body of the chalk
+strata are not so: which led the late Sir H. Englefield to conjecture,
+that the phenomenon was caused in the moment of the immense concussion
+which subverted the whole mass of strata, and placed them in their
+present nearly vertical position.
+
+Another interesting circumstance in the geological structure of the Isle
+of Wight, is a series of strata, _vertical_ or highly inclined, which
+run across the middle of it from east to west; while the strata on each
+side are _horizontal_; they consist of ... a very thick stratum of clay
+and sand (observable at Alum Bay), flinty chalk, chalk without flints,
+chalk-marle, green sandstone with lime-stone and chert, dark-grey marle,
+and ferruginous sand.
+
+A PROGRESSIVE CHANGE is evidently taking place in the boundary line of
+the coast--the sea making considerable invasions on the south side,
+which is exposed to the resistless currents of the ocean; while on the
+north it is found to be more gradually receding, from the accumulation
+of sand and shingle drifted and deposited by the less impetuous tides of
+the Solent Channel.--About Brixton, for instance, between Blackgang
+Chine and the Freshwater Cliffs, the loss of land has been estimated
+(from the successive removals of paths and hedges,) to exceed 200 feet
+in breadth in less than a century; while in the neighbourhood of Ryde it
+is known that the bed of a valley formerly accessible to the sea is now
+rather above its highest level; and even in 1760, when Fielding visited
+the island, the coast there is described by him as a wide disgusting
+waste of mud, which is now covered with an increasing layer of sand,
+sufficiently firm to bear wheel-carriages; and no doubt but in process
+of time there will be a great accession to the beach, from the constant
+though slow operation of the same causes--denuding on the one side, and
+reciprocally accumulating on the other.
+
+Good Stone of various qualities is found in most parts of the island:
+and with that procured from the quarries of Binstead, the body of
+Winchester Cathedral was built. All the houses along the Undercliff are
+constructed with a beautiful kind of freestone procured on the spot.
+
+     Extensive pits are worked in the downs for the chalk, which is used
+     for manure, burning into lime, &c. A stratum of coals was formerly
+     believed to run through the central downs, and Sir Rt. Worsley
+     actually sunk a shaft for it near Bembridge; his labors however
+     were but poorly rewarded. Veins of coarse iron ore have also
+     appeared in some parts of the island.
+
+The finest white sand in the kingdom is obtained from the sea-cliffs at
+Freshwater, and is carried in great quantities to the glass and
+porcelain manufactories. Excellent brick-earth abounds in almost every
+part of the island: common native alum, copperas, specimens of
+petrifactions, and many curious varieties of sea-weeds, are picked up on
+the shores; in the cliffs and quarries are found numerous beautiful
+fossil remains,--especially oysters and other bivalve shells, of a vast
+size.
+
+The central range of chalk hills divides the island into two nearly
+distinct regions, the soil and strata being essentially different,--a
+stiff clay predominating on the north side, which is extensively covered
+with wood, while the south side is principally of a light sandy soil or
+mellow loam, and being exceedingly fertile, the whole tract is almost
+exclusively employed in tillage.
+
+     In geological terms, the north is formed of the _Eocene_ or
+     freshwater deposits: and the south of the _Cretaceous_ or oceanic,
+     except where the _Wealden_ exhibits itself at Sandown and Brixton
+     bays.--Though affording a great variety of soil, the island is upon
+     the whole well calculated for farming as may be inferred from its
+     proverbial fertility; "it was many years ago computed to produce as
+     much corn in one year as its inhabitants would consume in
+     seven,--and the improved cultivation, with the additional land
+     brought into tillage, has doubtless kept pace with the increased
+     population."
+
+In AGRICULTURE there is now a close approximation to the routine
+practised in the rest of the county: and there is scarcely any
+peculiarity observable either in the system of Husbandry, or in the
+manners of the Yeomanry, who are a very intelligent and respectable
+class.
+
+     The constant intercourse which the inhabitants have with persons
+     from other parts of the kingdom, has in fact erased all insular
+     peculiarities. But the following extract from the Memoirs of Sir
+     John Oglander, which were written about the year 1700, will be read
+     with interest, as exhibiting a most
+
+     _Amusing Picture of the Islanders in the 16th century_.
+
+     "I have heard," says he, "and partly knowe it to be true, that not
+     only heretofore there was no lawyer nor attorney in owre island,
+     but in Sir George Carey's time [1588] an attorney coming in to
+     settle in the island, was by his command, with a pound of candles
+     hanging att his breech lighted, with bells about his legs, hunted
+     owte of the island; insomuch that owre ancestors lived here so
+     quietly and securely, being neither troubled to London nor
+     Winchester, so they seldom or never went owte of the island;
+     insomuch as when they went to London (thinking it an East India
+     voyage), they always made their wills, supposing no trouble like to
+     travaile."
+
+The extensive downs of the island afford excellent pasture for sheep,
+whose wool is of a staple not inferior to that produced on the South
+Downs: and many thousand lambs are annually sent to the London markets.
+From the improvements effected in Husbandry, there are now nearly
+sufficient oxen reared and fatted for the use of the inhabitants,
+instead of the butchers going as formerly, to Salisbury, &c. for their
+cattle.
+
+The demands of the dock-yards (both here and at Portsmouth,) have
+greatly thinned the timber of the island, which is principally oak and
+elm, and is found to grow most luxuriantly in the wooded tract from East
+Cowes to St. Helen's.
+
+     In the time of King Charles II, woods were so extensive, that it is
+     recorded, a squirrel might have run on the tops of the trees from
+     Gurnard to Carisbrooke, and in several other parts for leagues
+     together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In ZOOLOGY there is nothing very remarkable, except the absence of
+pole-cats, badgers, and till lately, even foxes: but the
+poultry-breeders are now indebted for the introduction of the latter to
+some sparkish amateurs of hunting: many have been killed, but they are
+still breeding rapidly in the favorable fastnesses of the more rocky and
+woody districts. Otters too are frequently seen.--GAME is abundant,
+particular attention having been paid to its preservation. "The great
+plenty of hares and other game is owing to the care of Sir Edward
+Horsey, governor in 1582, who is reported to have given a lamb for every
+living hare brought to him from the neighbouring counties."
+
+THE NIGHTINGALE.--These much-prized birds of passage make the island
+their early and most favorite resort; and to those visitors from the
+north who perhaps never heard their unrivaled notes, the opportunity
+would prove not the least gratifying circumstance in a day's pleasure.
+On fine evenings in the months of May and June, the woods and groves in
+every direction resound with the delightful chorus of their inimitable
+songs.
+
+Astonishing numbers of sea-fowl resort during the summer months to the
+cliff's of Freshwater and Bembridge: in the latter, the eagle has been
+known to build its eyry, and in the time of queen Elizabeth they were
+famous for a breed of hawks, which were so valued, that it was made a
+capital crime to steal them.
+
+FISH of every kind common to the southern coast of England is caught off
+the island, but not in that abundance which might be expected, except
+crabs and lobsters, which are uncommonly large and fine. Mackarel are
+some seasons extremely plentiful, small, but peculiarly sweet. Numbers
+of porpoises are seen rolling along in the Solent Sea and Southampton
+Water; sharks are frequently observed off the back of the island, and
+sometimes even the grampus pursuing its prey. In 1814, a large whale was
+taken off the Shingles (west of the Needle Rocks,) having been left
+aground by the ebbing tide: and in the winter of 1841, another,
+measuring 75 feet in length, was caught near the same spot.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Local Biography and History._
+
+The following are amongst the most eminent natives of the island:
+
+     Sir JOHN CHEEKE, Knt., one of the most distinguished scholars and
+     virtuous men of his time: he was tutor to Edward VI, and a zealous
+     protestant, but being induced during the following reign to make a
+     public recantation, his death, which happened soon after, was
+     supposed to have been hastened by shame of that humiliating
+     exhibition.
+
+     Rev. HENRY COLE, D.D., Dean of St. Paul's, a contemporary of the
+     above, was born at Godshill: he shone in divinity and literature,
+     and was a strenuous advocate of the Roman-catholic faith.
+
+     THOs. JAMES, D.D., a learned divine and antiquary: was esteemed,
+     from his extensive erudition, a living library, Born at Newport,
+     died 1629.
+
+     ROBERT HOOK, M.D., celebrated for his extraordinary inventive
+     powers in almost every branch of art and science, was born at
+     Freshwater anno 1635, and died at an advanced age, in Gresham
+     College.
+
+     JOHN HOBSON, rose by his skill and courage from the obscurity of a
+     tailor's parish-apprentice to an admiral's rank in the reign of
+     Queen Anne: he headed Sir George Rooke's squadron in the attack on
+     Vigo harbour, where a numerous Spanish fleet was entirely captured
+     or burned.--The little village of Bonchurch claims the honor of his
+     birth-place.
+
+We shall conclude this general chapter with a brief summary of the
+local history, though the annals of a small dependent isle like this,
+cannot be expected to possess any very exciting interest.
+
+     [In fact it can boast of no important ancient settlements or
+     records--no valued chronicles of the alternate successes and
+     defeats of ambitious rival princes and their contending armies, or
+     the unpitied sufferings of the sacrificed population: and perhaps
+     it would never have been mentioned in the national history, had it
+     not been for the imprisonment of fallen royalty in the case of
+     Charles I. Its situation certainly exposed it to the attacks of
+     Danish pirates, and subsequently of the French; but these distant
+     events constituting but a broken and unconnected narrative, the
+     ensuing brief sketch will we presume be sufficient for the majority
+     of our readers. We refer those who wish further information on the
+     subject to the valuable work of Sir Richard Worsley,--from which
+     this article is partly abridged.]
+
+     It was subdued by the Roman troops under Vespasian, A.D. 43; but
+     the conquerors could not have experienced much resistance from the
+     natives, as no remains of their military works have been here
+     discovered. Under the empire, the island was reckoned to contain
+     about 1200 families.
+
+     The Saxon kings of the South of England several times attacked the
+     island with their accustomed unsparing ferocity: particularly
+     Cerdic, in 530, who replaced the slaughtered British by a colony of
+     his own countrymen; and Ceadwalla of Murcia, who having seized it
+     in 686, was so incensed at the idolatry of the inhabitants, that he
+     resolved at first to extirpate them, and repeople the island with
+     _Christians!_ but at the intercession of bishop Wilfred, great
+     numbers saved their lives by submitting to be baptized.
+
+     In the ninth and following centuries the island suffered, in common
+     with the neighbouring coast, from the predatory visits of the
+     Danes. For a time indeed they were checked by the great Alfred, who
+     wholly captured or destroyed one large fleet, laden with the spoils
+     of Hampshire and the Wight: but under the weak and disordered
+     reigns of his successors, the northern pirates seem to have taken
+     possession of this defenceless spot as often as they pleased; and
+     after making it a depot for the plunder of the adjacent counties,
+     and living freely on the inhabitants, sometimes wantonly burned
+     towns and villages at their departure.
+
+     The island was also severely harrassed by some of the rebellious
+     Saxon nobles in the reign of Edward the Confessor; but after the
+     Norman Conquest, its tranquillity was not materially disturbed till
+     the year 1346, when a party of French landed at St. Helen's; they
+     were soon repulsed by the islanders, though the warden, Sir
+     Theobald Russell, was amongst the slain. About this time a variety
+     of excellent regulations were made by the inhabitants for their
+     better security: the landholders were by their tenures bound to
+     defend the castle of Carisbrooke for 40 days at their own charges;
+     the county of Devon sent for its defence 76 men-at arms, and the
+     city of London 300 slingers and bowmen.
+
+     Another party of the French seem to have made a more successful
+     attack in the first year of Richard II: indeed the islanders at
+     that time had little besides their own valor to depend on for
+     protection; as there were no forts to obstruct an enemy's landing;
+     Carisbrooke Castle standing in the centre of the island, could
+     only serve for a partial retreat: and serious ravages might be
+     committed ere any assistance arrived from the mainland. This want
+     of domestic security so discouraged the natives, that many families
+     withdrew, when an order was issued to the wardens to seize the
+     lands of all such as refused to return.
+
+     Not long afterwards a powerful body of Frenchmen landed in the
+     island, the militia of which (900 in number,) had been reinforced
+     from Southampton and London, in expectation of this hostile visit.
+     The invaders were unable to reduce Carisbrooke Castle, which was
+     commanded by the governor, Sir H. Tyrrel--and moreover suffered
+     considerable loss by an ambuscade at a place near Newport, still
+     called Deadman's Lane; [Footnote: A tumulus where the slain were
+     buried, at the south entrance to the town, was exultingly named
+     _Noddies'_ Hill--whence the present appellation Nodehill.] yet as
+     the houses of the inhabitants lay at their mercy, they were at
+     length bought off by the payment of 1000 marks, and a promise that
+     no resistance should be offered, if they revisited the island
+     within a year.
+
+     In the reign of Henry IV, the French made two other attacks: on the
+     first occasion they were repulsed with loss; and on the second,
+     when a large fleet made a threatening demand of a subsidy, the
+     islanders were so elated at their past success, that they invited
+     the French to land and try their prowess in fair fight, after
+     having had sufficient time to rest and refresh themselves: this
+     handsome challenge was not however accepted.
+
+     Owing to its comparatively remote situation, the island escaped
+     those calamities which afflicted the rest of the kingdom during the
+     bloody disputes of the rival Roses: nor was it engaged with any
+     foreign enemy till the year 1488, when the governor, Sir Edward de
+     Woodville, having raised a body of about 500 men, passed over to
+     the continent in aid of the Duke of Bretagne against the king of
+     France. At the battle of St. Aubin the Bretons were routed, and the
+     islanders, whom hatred or contempt of the French probably impelled
+     to a more obstinate resistance, perished to a man: this unfortunate
+     event plunged the whole island into mourning; and in order to
+     recruit the diminished population, an act of parliament forbad any
+     single inhabitant from holding farms above the annual rent of ten
+     marks.
+
+     On the 18th of July, 1545, a large French fleet appearing off the
+     Isle of Wight, the English squadron which lay at Spithead, though
+     greatly inferior in force, stood out to meet them: but the
+     admiral's ship _Mary Rose_ sinking with most of her crew, the
+     others retreated into the Solent Channel; while the French landed
+     several parties of troops, and after some sharp fighting, repulsed
+     the islanders who had collected to oppose them; it was next
+     proposed in a council of war to fortify and keep possession of the
+     island, but this being considered impracticable by any number of
+     men that could then be spared from the ships, they proceeded to
+     pillage and burn the villages, till the inhabitants, being
+     reinforced, attacked and drove them off with the loss of many men,
+     and one of their principal officers. King Henry VIII, in order to
+     prevent a repetition of such mischievous visits, erected several
+     forts and blockhouses for the protection of the coast; and though
+     the rapid advance of the British naval power still more effectually
+     guarded it from the danger of foreign invasions, the islanders for
+     many years afterwards neglected no precautions for their own
+     defence: a train of field-pieces was provided among the different
+     parishes, and the militia, in 1625, numbered 2000 men.
+
+     In the division between king Charles I and the parliament, the
+     islanders at first manifested some zeal in the royal cause; yet as
+     soon as hostilities commenced at Portsmouth, the Newport militia
+     expelled the weak garrison of Carisbrooke Castle, which, with the
+     other forts, were delivered to the parliamentary troops; and on the
+     arrival of the Earl of Pembroke, the gentlemen and principal
+     farmers assembled at Cowes, and tendered him their best services.
+     The inhabitants having thus taken a decisive step in closing with
+     the prevailing power, remained undisturbed spectators of the
+     ensuing commotions, till the king injudiciously sought here an
+     asylum.
+
+     On the 12th of November, 1647, Charles, who had just fled from
+     Hampton Court, was met at Tichfield by Colonel Hammond, governor of
+     the Isle of Wight, who invited him to take up his residence at
+     Carisbrooke Castle. The offer was accepted, and for some time the
+     royal guest appeared to be quite free and unrestrained in his
+     actions and company; but afterwards his liberty was gradually
+     abridged, his confidential servants removed, and himself imprisoned
+     within the castle; the various unsuccessful attempts that were made
+     to effect his escape only serving as a pretext to increase the
+     rigor of his confinement. Yet during the subsequent negociations of
+     the Treaty of Newport, he was set at large on his parole,--till a
+     detachment of the army broke off the negociations by arresting and
+     conveying him to Hurst Castle; 30 days before he lost his life at
+     Whitehall.
+
+     As its situation preserved it from scenes of hostility between the
+     troops, the island enjoyed a much happier state than any other part
+     of the kingdom during the civil war, which caused many families to
+     retire hither: a circumstance that for the time rose the farm-rents
+     in the proportion of 20 per cent. The subsequent local history
+     presents nothing of any interest, with the exception perhaps of the
+     powerful armaments which assembled in the neighbourhood during the
+     last French war, and the large bodies of military which were in
+     consequence here quartered.
+
+     The absolute lordship of the Isle of Wight was given by William the
+     Conqueror to one William Fitz-Osborne (in reward for his services
+     at the battle of Hastings), "to be held by him as freely as he
+     himself held the realm of England"; but in consequence of the
+     defection of his descendant, it was resumed by the Crown. Henry I
+     granted it to the Earl of Devon, in whose family it long continued,
+     till the alienation of it was obtained by Edward I, for a
+     comparatively small sum. The last grant was to Edward de Woodville
+     in 1485; from which time there have been successively appointed by
+     the Crown,--wardens, captains--and governors of the island: but the
+     powers attached to the office have gradually declined, and at
+     present it is a mere title, unaccompanied by duty or, we believe,
+     emolument.--It is an amusing circumstance in the history of this
+     little spot, that it had once the high-sounding honor of having a
+     _King of its own!_--for the Duke of Warwick was so crowned by the
+     hands of Henry VI, in the year 1444,--but it would seem that the
+     glory of the name was all which his _Vectis_ Majesty derived from
+     his accession.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Carisbrooke, Newport, Cowes, and Ryde.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     As a stranger's attention is frequently diverted from noticing many
+     interesting features of a scene in the hurried moment of his visit,
+     an index >> is placed at the head of each section, pointing only to
+     the _most remarkable objects_--a peculiarity which, it is presumed,
+     will be found extremely useful to those who have little time to
+     spare for minute examination or research.
+
+     Our arrangement of the subjects supposes the reader to start from a
+     point nearly central, and pursue his tour of the island in a
+     regular progress, without frequently retrograding, or considerably
+     deviating either to the right or left. This order must prove
+     convenient for reference at all events, let the visitor commence
+     his journey from any of the principal towns.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CARISBROOKE CASTLE.
+
+[Illustration: CARISBROOKE CASTLE, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+      "Still farther in the vale a castle lifts
+    Its stately towers, and tottering battlements,
+    Drest with the rampant ivy's uncheck'd growth."
+
+>>_The chief curiosities within the castle are_ ... THE KEEP, _the
+immense_ WELL, _and the apartments which were the_ PRISON _of King
+Charles I and his family_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The high antiquity of this beautiful ruin, which occupies the crown of a
+hill only one mile westward of Newport, renders it an object of the most
+pleasing interest with all classes of visitors to the Isle of Wight; and
+it is the only local specimen of ancient fortification deserving a
+stranger's notice. It is known to have existed for at least fourteen
+centuries, having in that long period been subjected of course to many
+mutations. The Saxon chronicles mention it as a place of strength and
+importance in the year 530, when Cerdic subdued the island; and it was
+subsequently rendered almost impregnable, according to the mode of
+fortification which prevailed among the Normans, by William
+Fitz-Osborne, to whom the island was given by the Conqueror. And in the
+reign of queen Elizabeth, it received the most substantial repairs and
+ample additions; when the outer trenches and bastions were formed upon
+the plan of those of Antwerp--circumscribing about 20 acres.
+
+On our nearly reaching the top of the hill by the carriage-road, we see
+first the ancient KEEP, peering above the rest of the ruins; and next,
+the principal and well-guarded entrance to the interior of the fortress.
+Passing through an ivied gateway, built in the reign of queen Elizabeth,
+as appears by the legible inscription (40 E.R. 1520,) on a shield over
+the arch: we proceed to another gateway in a spacious square building,
+whose angles are strengthened by two noble round towers: this opens into
+the interior area; had several prison rooms, and was armed with a
+portcullis: but the whole of it is now in a sad condition,
+
+    "Defac'd by time, and tott'ring in decay!"
+
+Nothing can be more picturesque than the first view of this venerable
+scene: the most luxuriant ivy everywhere mantles the grey walls and
+mouldering battlements, interspersed with the waving branches of wild
+vegetation: and the surrounding terraces are adorned with the opposing
+tints of pines and every variety of deciduous trees.
+
+Being admitted through the curious old oaken wicket to the inner court,
+the attendant cicerone will lead the visitor to several objects in due
+succession: the most remarkable are ...
+
+The place in which the unfortunate king Charles I was confined (1647),
+and his children imprisoned after his death: but the apartments are so
+dilapidated that it is next to impossible to decide upon their
+arrangement: the window however is shown through which he vainly
+attempted an escape: this is generally examined with a greater share of
+interest than perhaps any other part of the castle, and is often obliged
+to contribute as a relic, some minute portion of its crumbling walls.
+
+THE KEEP is certainly the most ancient part of the fortress, having been
+built either prior to, or early in the time of the Saxons: and was
+rendered an appendage to the more ample fortifications constructed by
+the Normans. It is reached by a flight of 72 stone steps (nine inches
+each); was guarded by a portcullis-gate; and provided with a well 310
+feet deep, since partially filled by the falling ruins.
+
+At the S.E. angle are the remains of another very ancient tower called
+MONTJOY'S: the walls in some places are eighteen feet thick.
+
+The WELL-HOUSE is to many persons the most attractive object within the
+walls of the castle,--for should the solemn ruins fail to impress that
+sentiment of reflection which proves to others the very zest of their
+visit, they will at least be not a little amused by the apt performance
+of a docile ass, whose task it is to draw up water from a well 300 feet
+deep! This office he performs by treading rapidly inside of an immense
+windlass-wheel (15-1/2 feet in diameter,) whereby he gives it the
+necessary rotatory motion. The natural longevity of these patient
+laborers is here exemplified by the instances on record; one done the
+duty for above 50 years, another 40, and another nearly 30. To afford
+some idea of the depth of the well, a lighted candle is lowered: and
+water is thrown down from a bucket, which produces quite a startling
+noise,--it will be three or four seconds in falling. For the same
+purpose, pins were formerly employed, but these were strictly forbidden,
+on account of their deleterious tendency on the water.
+
+The Chapel, the Governor's apartments, the Barracks, Powder Magazine,
+&c. are also pointed out; but to go over the whole works of this
+venerable monument of antiquity, and give a minute detail of the several
+parts usually shown to strangers, would be tedious to the _reader_,
+though doubtless every spot and fragment must be viewed by the _visitor_
+with a lively interest.
+
+If a party be not pressed for time, they should go round the outer
+terrace, reckoned a mile in circumference, the walk is in some parts
+sequestered and most pleasingly solemn, in other points presenting very
+charming views; and altogether calculated to raise our admiration, and
+give a more perfect idea of this beautiful specimen of ancient
+fortification.
+
+The open space in the outworks, called the Place of Arms, is where the
+Archery Club resort during the season for exercise; no spot certainly
+could be more convenient: though by the bye, there is a degree of modish
+gaiety on such occasions, which is not altogether in character (at least
+to a picturesque eye,) with the solemnity of a scene betraying ...
+
+    "The grey and grief-worn aspect of old days!"
+
+     The military establishment of the castle is at present altogether a
+     sinecure; formerly this was the regular seat of the insular
+     government; but now it is quite deserted, save by the individual
+     who has the privilege of showing the place to strangers, and his
+     attendants.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE VILLAGE OF CARISBROOKE
+
+Is an extremely pretty place, and still very populous, though much less
+so than formerly, when it enjoyed the consequence of a CITY, guarded by
+the only fortress in the island to which the inhabitants could fly for
+refuge in the moment of invasion: it rises on a hill opposite that on
+which stand the venerable ruins of the Castle: and in the intervening
+valley a beautiful stream winds its course towards Newport, sufficiently
+copious to turn several mills--the springs supplying water highly
+esteemed for its purity. The church is of great antiquity: and its tower
+is a very handsome specimen of Gothic architecture, proudly relieving
+itself from the surrounding trees and habitations. There are several
+genteel residences, and a few good lodging-houses in the village, whose
+neatly dressed gardens, interspersed with lofty trees, and environed by
+the most agreeable scenery, give to the place altogether an uncommon air
+of rural beauty.
+
+      "How picturesque the view, where up the side
+    Of that steep hill, the roofs of russet thatch
+    Rise mix'd with trees, above whose swelling tops
+    Ascends the tall church-tower, and loftier still
+    The hill's extended ridge, crown'd with yellow corn--
+    While slow beneath the bank, the silver stream
+    Glides by the flowery isles and willow groves."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+NEWPORT.
+
+>>_To form an idea merely of the Town, it will be sufficient for a
+stranger to pace two or three of the principal streets--the High-st. of
+course from one end to the other; he will then see the_ TOWN-HALL: _the
+old_ PARISH-CHURCH, _situated in the Corn-market; the public_ LIBRARY
+_in the Beast-market; and the ancient_ GRAMMAR-SCHOOL. _The most
+inviting short walks are over_ MONTJOY'S _to Carisbrooke_--_to the top
+of_ PAN DOWN--_and to Hurststake, on the banks of the_ RIVER, _at high
+tide_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEWPORT is allowed by most travellers to be as clean and pretty a
+country-town as any in the kingdom. The houses are of a modern and
+respectable construction: the streets regular and well paved, with
+sufficient descent to be always clean; and two copious streams water it
+on the east and west.
+
+Being closely surrounded by an amphitheatre of lofty downs, beautifully
+checquered by pasture and cultivation, cottages and villas,--the
+environs are of the most agreeable and inviting character, and the
+climate mild and salubrious; to those therefore who love to blend social
+intercourse with the pleasures of a cheerful yet quiet retreat, Newport
+presents many decided attractions. Years ago it was observed, that
+"there were few provincial towns which could afford independence more
+sources of rational enjoyment:" and since then there has been a great
+accession to the local means of intellectual pleasure, in respect of
+philosophical and literary institutions, private and professional
+reading societies, a Mechanics' Institution, circulating libraries, &c.
+&c. The places of public worship too have equally increased; being three
+episcopal (two of recent erection), two for Independents, two for
+Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, a Bible-Christian, a Roman-catholic,
+a Unitarian, and a Particular-baptist. There are five respectable inns,
+in the town (see the List), and two assembly-rooms.
+
+From its central position, it is well calculated for being the principal
+market-town, and, as it were the metropolis, of the island. On the
+Saturdays in particular, it presents a very animated scene: being
+frequented by all classes who are obliged to attend for the purposes of
+business, or upon judicial affairs; which would naturally induce many
+other parties to visit in favorable weather, were it only for the sake
+of a pleasant jaunt.
+
+These advantages of course give it a steady trade in almost every branch
+of business; and latterly the shops have exchanged much of their
+antiquated country appearance for the more imposing style of the
+fashionable towns,--where dazzling glare is resorted to as the chief
+attraction.
+
+     Though Newport does not depend, like the watering-places, upon the
+     annual influx of visitors engaging their lodgings for a season, yet
+     many of the best situated and most convenient houses are handsomely
+     fitted-up for the purpose; and should the river be ever
+     sufficiently deepened to admit a passage steamer to ply at regular
+     hours without regard to the state of the tide, Newport might defy
+     all competition, by the rapid improvement of its various local
+     capabilities which would necessarily follow.
+
+The River (called the Medina, from dividing the island in the middle,)
+is navigable from Newport to Cowes for vessels of sixty or seventy tons
+burthen, during high water. The banks are beautifully dressed with
+scattered groves and copse-wood: and interspersed with the arable fields
+and meadows are several churches, seats, villas, farms, and cottages, on
+either side: and as the lands rise rather boldly, the while scene is
+viewed to advantage from the water, and will be found to afford a very
+delightful trip on a summer's day, to or from Cowes; the party leaving
+by the returning tide after about two hours' stay at either place.
+
+     The gayest season at Newport is during the Whitsuntide Fair, and
+     three successive Saturdays at Michaelmas, the time when the
+     agricultural servants receive their wages, and re-engage for the
+     following year. The old custom of the female-servants assembling at
+     one part of the town, and the men at another, for the purpose of
+     engaging in new situations, is still partially kept up; these
+     occasions are familiarly called the "Bargain-fair Saturdays," the
+     middle or principal one falling on the first Saturday in October.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
+
+Of these the most conspicuous is the GUILDHALL, situated nearly in the
+centre of the town: it is rather a stately edifice of the Ionic order.
+Here the magistrates of the whole island meet every Saturday for
+hearing and deciding upon petty causes: and examining and committing
+prisoners to the Winchester assizes, or in, minor offences to take their
+trials at the quarter sessions for the Isle of Wight, formerly held at
+Winchester, but which are _now_ very properly _adjourned_, to save the
+inhabitants the great inconvenience and expense of crossing the water.
+There are also the quarter sessions for the borough; and that excellent
+institution, the County Court for the settlement of small debts.--In the
+area beneath the hall is held the Saturday's market for poultry, eggs,
+and butter.
+
+Another showy building is the ISLE OF WIGHT INSTITUTION, or permanent
+public Library, to which nearly all the neighbouring gentry subscribe.
+Besides the reading-room and library it contains a museum for local
+curiosities, &c. Temporary residents in the island may become
+subscribers for six months by a payment of 25s.
+
+The FREE-GRAMMAR SCHOOL is the only building claiming respect for its
+antiquity (besides the parish-church), situated in the street leading to
+the Cowes road: it was erected by subscription in the year 1619, and
+duly endowed. Though recently having been repaired throughout, its
+appearance is still rather picturesque: and possesses considerable
+historic interest, from the memorable conference held here between the
+parliamentary commissioners and king Charles the First, up to the
+unfortunate moment when he was unexpectedly seized and imprisoned in
+Hurst Castle.
+
+The PARISH-CHURCH is considered to be of the age of Henry II, as it is
+dedicated to St. Thomas-a-Becket: it is spacious, and has a fine lofty
+square tower; but there is nothing very particular either in its
+architecture or antiquities to call for minute description. The chief
+curiosities are ... the Pulpit, remarkable for its rich and ingenious
+carving: a monument to Sir Edward Horsey; and the spot where the second
+daughter of King Charles was buried: she died while the family were
+prisoners at Carisbrooke--and it was only by accident in the year 1793
+that the vault was discovered.--ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, built a few years
+ago on the south side of the town, at the foot of Montjoy's, is a
+conspicuous object in most points of view: and though plain in
+appearance, is very convenient in its interior arrangements: it is
+supported on the voluntary principle.
+
+Newport returns two members to parliament.--The number of inhabitants in
+the town, which has considerably extended beyond the limits of the
+borough, is about 7000. The corporate body consists of 24 members; but
+since the passing of the Municipal Reform Act, there can of course be
+nothing peculiar in their constitution of which the reader need be
+informed.
+
+     A Lace-factory on a very extensive scale is established just
+     without the town, on the east side, going to Ryde: in the town is
+     also an establishment which gives employment to many females in the
+     lace-embroidering process.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Environs of Newport_.
+
+The following villages and hamlets are nearly connected with, or
+gradually approximating the town:--
+
+On the eastern side, surrounded by meadows, is BARTON's VILLAGE, near
+which a neat little church has lately been opened, on the road to
+Ryde;--just above it is a gentleman's seat called BELLECROFT.
+
+SHIDE, half a mile to the south, is picturesquely seated at the foot of
+the steep and high down called Pan: the river Medina flows through the
+grounds, and there are several respectable villas in its immediate
+neighbourhood.
+
+Westward is the NEW VILLAGE, a street of genteel and comfortable houses
+(some of which are furnished for lodgings,) leading to Carisbrooke:
+behind it is the hill called Montjoy's, from whose lofty summit is
+obtained the most comprehensive view of Newport, its river, and the
+adjacent country. There is also a small hamlet on HUNNY-HILL, north of
+the town.
+
+FAIRLEE is a principal seat, a mile north of Newport. The house is large
+and of respectable appearance: standing at the head of an extensive and
+beautiful lawn which slopes to the eastern bank of the river, surrounded
+by close and open groves.
+
+About a mile from Newport, on the road to West Cowes, stands the HOUSE
+OF INDUSTRY, a very large building, generally containing between 500 and
+600 paupers; it includes within its walls a lunatic asylum, hospital,
+school, and chapel: and has an extensive garden attached.
+
+     Its internal affairs and out-door relief are regulated by a Board
+     of Guardians and Directors, consisting of a certain number of
+     respectable inhabitants, chosen from every parish in the
+     island,--under the provisions of an Act of Parliament obtained in
+     the year 1770 for the parochial consolidation of the whole island.
+     They are therefore independent of the Poor-law Commissioners, and
+     have adopted only as much as they thought proper of the general
+     statute.
+
+ALBANY BARRACKS, on the opposite side of the road, are capable of
+accommodating nearly 2000 troops--for a long time however the complement
+stationed here seldom exceeded a few companies, and for months together
+there would not be even a serjeant's guard: but latterly the depots of
+several regiments have been removed hither: so that there are now often
+from 1000 to 1500 men at the same time.
+
+Westward of the Barracks, bordering the Yarmouth road, is the extensive
+tract called PARKHURST FOREST, planted a few years since with oaks and
+Scotch firs, by order of Government.
+
+PARKHURST PRISON, to the north of the barracks, is an extensive range of
+buildings, dedicated to the benevolent purpose of reclaiming from
+infamy, if possible, a large number of juvenile criminals of the male
+sex.
+
+     To accomplish this truly desirable object (as _punishment_ ought
+     certainly to be _corrective_ in the best sense of the word), the
+     boys are regularly instructed by competent tradesmen, in such
+     branches of popular business as may be best suited to their
+     respective capacities: in conjunction with the most approved course
+     of common school-education. Particular attention is likewise paid
+     to the elevation of their moral character, so likely to be
+     permanently influenced by means of impressive friendly admonition,
+     the frequent inculcation and daily observance of religious duties,
+     and the exciting hope of reward for good behaviour in a mitigation
+     of their sentence: in short, by the most encouraging and kind
+     treatment, as far as is compatible with the strictness of prison
+     discipline. None therefore, but the thoroughly incorrigible, can
+     leave the institution without being greatly improved in their
+     habits and dispositions, if not altogether reformed; since _Order,
+     Cleanliness, Activity_, and _Industry_, must become almost natural
+     to them by the time they are discharged,--their understandings
+     cultivated, and their minds more or less impressed with the
+     sentiments of virtue and religion.
+
+     It would be injudicious to enter in detail on the subject of the
+     routine management, or the particular discipline adopted in the
+     respective wards: as very probably many alterations will be
+     introduced from time to time, as experiment and practice may
+     suggest: and moreover, as a "Report" is annually published by order
+     of Government (at a low price), containing the most minute
+     particulars in every department of the Asylum. For the same reasons
+     we have avoided any description of the architectural plan of the
+     prison, a pretty good idea of which may be formed in passing by on
+     the high-road.--We must however mention one fact that speaks highly
+     favorably of the salutary system adopted, namely, that during the
+     five years from the opening of the institution in 1838, there
+     occurred but two deaths among the boys, though the number averaged
+     about 250 at the same time.
+
+     The establishment has been visited by several eminent persons, who,
+     after having particularly examined the course adopted in every
+     department, expressed themselves so well pleased with its
+     management and beneficial tendency, that another building at a
+     short distance was erected in 1843; and altogether there is
+     sufficient room now for 700 or 800 delinquents. No stranger is
+     admitted without an order from the Home Secretary of State.
+
+The newly erected residences of the officers and other parties connected
+with the prison, barracks, &c., altogether form quite a village, known
+by the general term of Parkhurst.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+WEST COWES.
+
+>>_The transient visitor here should immediately inquire
+for the_ PARADE--_pass by the_ CASTLE _on the beach, to the
+bathing-machines_--_retrograde by the carriage-road under the_ NEW
+CHURCH--_mount the hill at the back of the Castle_--_reach the_ OLD
+CHURCH, _which is contiguous to_ NORTHWOOD PARK--_and then return, to
+cross over to E. Cowes_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The decided advantages of Cowes are ... its excellent shore for
+bathing--and its safe and commodious harbour--which recommend it
+strongly as a fashionable watering-place, and the resort of gentlemen
+fond of aquatic amusements.
+
+The appearance of this town from the water, particularly when approached
+by the passage from Southampton, is extremely pleasing; as the acclivity
+of the hill on which it stands is sufficiently bold to admit of the
+houses being seen above each other, as if built on a succession of
+terraces, while their starting formality is charmingly relieved by the
+intervening shrubberies and groups of lofty trees. To a stranger
+however, who may confine his walk to the streets just where he lands,
+this favorable impression would be almost obliterated,--for they are
+both narrow and crowded: though in these respects there is some
+improvement the further he goes either to the east or the west; but it
+is near the Castle that he must look for the greatest share of united
+beauty and respectability. The truth is, the lower part near the quay is
+of course occupied by tradesmen, for the advantages of business, and
+convenient landing-places; and as their houses stand at the edge of the
+water, many parties prefer their lodgings to those in the more open
+quarters on the top of the hill,--and many of them are therefore
+elegantly furnished for letting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE PARADE affords a delightful promenade, being on the water's edge.
+Here are several first-rate houses, standing at the foot of the steepest
+part of the hill, which is luxuriantly clothed with hanging shrubberies
+and several groups of majestic trees, presenting a perfectly unique
+picture of sylvan and marine beauty. The Royal Yacht-Club House, with
+its ample awning, and the very elegant Gothic villa of Sir John
+Hippesley, will be particularly noticed.
+
+[Illustration: THE CASTLE, WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT]
+
+THE CASTLE stands westward of the Parade: but were it not for a small
+battery of eleven guns in front, the stranger might search in vain for a
+fabric which he could identify as "a Castle," at least by any portion of
+its modernized architecture and surrounding embellishments. In fact, the
+original dwelling was a few years ago greatly enlarged--made a story
+higher--the open ground at the back inclosed (!)--with other alterations
+to render it a fit residence for nobility. It was built by king Henry
+VIII, about the same time as those at Sandown, Yarmouth, and Calshot,
+for the purpose of securing the coast against the then frequent attacks
+of pirates, as well as the more formidable invasions of the French.
+
+Beyond the Castle are the bathing-machines; the villas of Earl Belfast
+and Lord Grantham; and behind these several others built in various
+tasty styles, and acquiring a picturesque effect from being more or less
+screened by the copse-wood on the steep slope at their back. But the
+chief ornament of this quarter is the new Episcopal chapel, whether
+viewed near, or from a distance on the water,--being a chastely-elegant
+structure in the Gothic style, in a most commanding situation: it is
+private property. Should the stranger feel disposed to extend his walk
+for about a mile further on the beach, which he would find very
+agreeable--he will come to a gentleman's residence distinguished by an
+air of antiquity, named Westcliff, though the neighbourhood is popularly
+called EGYPT.
+
+     We make this remark, because there is a lane close by, which turns
+     up to the high-road from Cowes to Gurnard Bay, and by this road we
+     would recommend the visitor by all means to return, for the sake of
+     the magnificent prospect which it affords, and on the peculiar
+     character of which the _permanent_ attractions of the place so much
+     depend. But to do this justice, the reader must have recourse to
+     his Map. The most prominent objects are Calshot Castle, standing
+     apparently isolated at the mouth of Southampton Water, and the tall
+     tower of Eaglehurst, seated on the neighbouring shore.
+
+     By "permanent attractions," we mean, that many landscapes of the
+     most romantic character fail to attract our attention for any
+     considerable time, on _repeated_ visits, if destitute of those
+     ever-varying circumstances which have in some degree the interest
+     of NOVELTY such for instance as the rural, and more particularly
+     the _marine_ prospects of the Isle of Wight; these afford an
+     endless source of amusement to the speculative eye,--whether
+     directed to the soft and gradual changes on the variegated face of
+     Nature _under cultivation_, or to the more animated, and constantly
+     shifting scene exhibited in a crowded sea-port, or where there are
+     other safe and ample roadsteds for the heaviest ships of war. In
+     these advantages Cowes and Ryde stand pre-eminent.
+
+    "Scenes must he beautiful, which daily viewed,
+    Please daily, and whose novelty survives
+    Long knowledge, and the scrutiny of years--
+    Praise justly due to those that I describe"
+
+
+
+
+We are now supposed to have reached the top of the hill, where the old
+CHURCH is situated: this is a spacious, plain building, having a very
+tall square tower, as destitute of beauty as anything of the kind can
+well be: yet as it peers loftily above all the surrounding objects, is a
+great improvement to the outline of the hill, when viewed from any
+considerable distance. Contiguous to the crowded cemetery stands ...
+
+NORTHWOOD HOUSE, a large and elegant mansion in the Palladian style of
+architecture. The PARK is an extensive demesne, and profusely planted;
+there are however comparatively few of those venerable sylvan honors
+which constitute the beauty of park-scenery.
+
+On the eastern slope of the hill, where the high-road turns off for
+Newport, stands WESTHILL, a charming cottage-ornee in the centre of a
+smooth sloping lawn interspersed with magnificent elms and close
+shrubberies.--In the environs of Cowes are several other genteel
+residences: MOOR-HOUSE is distinguished by its Gothic pinnacles and
+commanding station: and near Gurnard Bay is a pretty retired seat,
+appropriately called WOOD-VALE.
+
+Besides the two churches, there are Catholic, Independent, and Wesleyan
+chapels. There are three large Hotels (see the List), and several minor
+places of good accommodation; reading-rooms, a Mechanics' Institution,
+&c.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+EAST COWES.
+
+>> _The town itself has nothing to interest a stranger: but in the
+vicinity are several first-rate seats and marine villas--the most
+distinguished being_ OSBORNE, NORRIS, _and_ EAST COWES CASTLE.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+This little town is separated from West Cowes by the river Medina, which
+here joins the sea. From the unexpected concurrence of various favorable
+circumstances, it is looking-up to be a place of some importance: the
+value of property has already considerably advanced, and trade in
+general improved. It has one good Hotel, several respectable
+lodging-houses: a neat episcopalian church, and an Independent chapel.
+Having a large shipwright's yard, and a number of marine stores, wharfs,
+&c., where merchant-ships lie alongside to take in or unload their
+cargoes, it often exhibits much of the bustling appearance of a sea-port
+town. There is a private landing-place near the ferry, for the
+accommodation of Her Majesty. The Custom-house has been removed to the
+other side of the harbour.
+
+The immediate neighbourhood of East Cowes has long been extremely
+beautiful, from being almost entirely covered with charming seats and
+villas, whose luxuriant groves and shrubberies give the scenery an
+uncommonly rich effect: and her Majesty having made this part of the
+island her marine residence, it now possesses a proud distinction in
+point of interest with the British public.
+
+A stranger should make his perambulation by first ascending the hill by
+the _old_ carriage-road, passing several villas (see list) secluded by
+dense shrubberies and large trees; a circumstance little to be
+regretted, as their chief boast is the amenity of their location. But
+through the tall plantations on the right our eye will be delightfully
+attracted by the picturesque turrets of East Cowes Castle, and the
+surrounding beautiful grounds. At the pretty lodge-entrance to the
+castle, the road divides,--the left-hand branch running to Norris, the
+right to Osborne and Newport; and in about eight or ten minutes' further
+walk, we can return by the new road through "East Cowes Park."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: OSBORNE, ISLE OF WIGHT]
+
+_The Principal Seats near East Cowes._
+
+OSBORNE, the property of HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, is entitled, equally
+from public interest and its own importance, to the first notice under
+this head.--The situation is everyway eligible for the _marine_
+residence of a sovereign of the British Isles: for it commands a most
+extensive and _animated_ prospect, including Spithead and other naval
+stations: has a beautiful sea-beach (with a private landing-place); and
+is sheltered by extensive woods and plantations. The original seat was a
+plain family mansion surrounded by park-like grounds, which have been
+extended by the purchase of several farms--including BARTON (whose fine
+old Elizabethan manor-house has received a complete and judicious
+reparation): so that the estate is now most conveniently bounded on the
+west by the high-road from East Cowes to Newport; on the south by a
+branch of the same road to Ryde; on the east by a sheltered cove called
+King's Quay (as tradition will have it from the circumstance of King
+John there concealing himself for a time when opposed by the barons):
+and on the north-east by the beautiful Solent Channel. Thus compassed by
+the sea and the best roads in the island, it extends from north to south
+about two miles and a half, by nearly two miles from east to west;
+enjoying the most delightful variety of scenery, from the simple picture
+of rural life to the grandeur of our NAVAL GLORY, and the majesty of the
+ocean itself.
+
+     The quality of the soil differs very considerably; but the worst is
+     well adapted for oak-plantations; and the thorough draining and
+     other improvements now carrying on will make the whole admirably
+     suited for agricultural pursuits, to which H.R.H. the Prince
+     Consort is very partial. A great part of the estate is enclosed by
+     a park-fence; and through the luxuriant woods and undulating
+     grounds, several miles of excellent private carriage-roads have
+     been constructed, much more being in progress.
+
+The PALACE occupies the site of the old house; it is in the Palladian
+style (which so admirably admits the application to domestic
+architecture of the most beautiful features of the Grecian orders).
+Within the ballustrade of its lofty flat roof is a charming promenade in
+fine weather.
+
+The flag-tower is 107 feet in height, the clock-tower 90, the first
+terrace-wall 17, and the second 10. The Royal Apartments are contained
+in the loftiest part of the building--they are handsome and spacious,
+and standing altogether in advance, command on every side the most
+uninterrupted views: at the back is the flag-tower, communicating with
+an open corridor which extends the whole of the north-west face of the
+building; and on the other side of the tower is the carriage-entrance,
+opening on pleasure-grounds adorned with the choicest varieties of
+ornamental shrubs--thriving with a luxuriance which promises well for
+the appearance of the estate, when the whole shall have been finished.
+The builder is T. Cubitt, esq.; but the design, we believe, was
+principally furnished by His Royal Highness Prince Albert himself--whose
+taste, and knowledge of the fine arts, well qualify him for the
+undertaking.
+
+     As it would be almost impossible to convey by verbal description a
+     correct idea of the general appearance of this noble structure, we
+     beg to refer our readers to the annexed Engraving--and also to the
+     Views of Osborne, recently published in the "Vectis Scenery," and
+     which may be purchased separately at 1s. each.
+
+NORRIS is a noble specimen of the castellated mansion, having been
+built in imitation of an ancient Norman fabric--massive in its
+construction, and remarkable for a stern simplicity of style disdaining
+all minute decoration. From this circumstance, and some of the loftiest
+towers being enveloped in the most luxuriant ivy, the whole building has
+so venerable an air of antiquity, even when closely examined, that we
+can hardly suppose it to be the production of modern days: and enjoying
+too as it does an uncommonly fine position on the most northern hill of
+the island, its general aspect is truly magnificent in every point of
+view. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the castle commands a most
+interesting marine prospect.
+
+Some of the rooms are of elegant dimensions, and the arrangement of the
+whole considered good--such indeed might be expected from the reputation
+of the architect, the late Mr. Wyatt. The stables, &c., are also on a
+very ample scale, and in the same plain, substantial style as the
+castle, for which they have not unfrequently been taken by strangers at
+the first glance.
+
+The grounds are now well timbered: the plantations beautifully dressing
+the steep slope even to the water's edge. The utmost privacy might be
+enjoyed, for there is the accommodation of a good landing-place, and a
+carriage-road thence to the house.
+
+     Norris was the property of the late Lord Henry Seymour, who was
+     engaged many years in its construction, and must in the course of a
+     long period have expended immense sums in improvements that may be
+     said to be now buried from our view. After his demise, it was two
+     seasons chosen for the residence of their R.H. the Duchess of Kent
+     and the Princess Victoria (during which time the latter improved
+     remarkably in her health): and has since been purchased on very
+     moderate terms by R. Bell, esq.--who greatly extended the scope of
+     the grounds by fresh purchases of land, especially by some
+     belonging to the Osborne estate--previously to her Majesty's
+     negociating for its possession.
+
+EAST COWES CASTLE, which enjoys a truly enviable site (for it combines
+an uncommon degree of shelter with the most extensive and _animated_
+prospect), is built in the bold style usually termed the Moorish, and
+has three handsome fronts of varied elevations, with a tasteful
+diversity of towers, mantled more or less by the most luxuriant ivy, and
+a great variety of elegant flowering plants. The Conservatory is a
+splendid addition; and the grounds, though not extensive, are very
+beautiful.
+
+     East Cowes Castle was built by, and continued for many years to be
+     the favorite residence of the late John Nash, esq., and was with
+     him a sort of architectural pet, receiving from time to time such
+     additions and alterations as appeared to be improvements to the
+     general design, or called for on the score of enlarged
+     accommodation; a circumstance certainly not calculated to insure
+     the greatest amount of domestic convenience (as regards the size
+     and arrangement of the rooms), though no doubt contributing largely
+     to the picturesque effect of the exterior. On Mr. Nash's demise it
+     was purchased by Earl Shannon,--and after his death by N. Barwell,
+     esq., who in 1846 sold off all the furniture, and valuable
+     productions of art which adorned this beautiful object of interest
+     to visitors.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+"EAST COWES PARK"
+
+Is the title of a very extensive building speculation, which comprehends
+above 100 acres of land, lying between Osborne and East Cowes. This
+tract was a few years back laid out for the erection of a number of
+elegant villa-residences, each to be surrounded with its garden and
+shrubbery, yet to command a delightful marine view. Excellent roads were
+made, having on either side a foot-path, flower-border, and neat iron
+pallisade; handsome gateways erected; and a pier, botanic garden, and
+other attractive improvements commenced or projected. The speculation
+did not however meet the success it merited, and comparatively few
+houses have as yet been built.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+THE HARBOUR,
+
+To which Cowes is principally indebted for its origin and present
+importance, enjoys a high character for safety as well as convenience:
+it is used by vessels of heavy tonnage, either in waiting for a
+favorable wind, or for the purpose of repairing damages sustained at
+sea; and after stormy weather, is often crowded with ships of various
+nations, in addition to those registered at the place--this being the
+port for the whole island.
+
+There are spacious dockyards, patent slips, &c., both at East and West
+Cowes: at the latter, excellent dry docks. The naval builders have long
+held a high reputation for skill: several men-of-war were built here
+during the last century; and of late years numerous beautiful
+pleasure-yachts, merchantmen, sloops of war, and other vessels--including
+the _Medina_, a first-rate steam-ship (lost on the West India passage),
+and some large steamers for various foreign governments.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     THE ROYAL-YACHT-SQUADRON
+
+     Make Cowes their port of rendezvous: they contribute largely to the
+     maritime gaiety of the place, and give particular classes of
+     tradesmen an extensive share of employment; but the town altogether
+     does not, it is said, derive that degree of fostering patronage
+     from their presence which might be expected. The _Royal Thames
+     Yacht-club_ often make this their summer-station.
+
+
+     THE REGATTA
+
+     Generally takes place in August, and is an exciting source of
+     hilarity with the inhabitants of Cowes, as well as numerous
+     visitors from every part of the island and opposite coast,--should
+     the weather prove favorable at the time. The sailing-matches are
+     now mostly confined to the members of the Royal Yacht-squadrons:
+     and it is to be regretted, that owing to the distance which they
+     sail, and the number of days engaged, comparatively little pleasure
+     is afforded to the mere spectator: there is however usually one
+     day's continued amusement--when sailing and rowing matches for
+     liberal subscription-prizes likewise take place between the local
+     watermen, &c.--excellent bands of music attend,--and in the evening
+     there is a brilliant display of fire-works, both from the shore and
+     from the yachts in various parts of the harbour. On these occasions
+     the appearance of the whole is animated beyond description; and to
+     a person from the country, the exhibition of such a numerous
+     assemblage of the most beautiful vessels in the world must prove a
+     lively gratification, for they are of every size and variety of
+     rig, from the stately ship of 4 or 500 tons burthen down to the
+     yawl of only 10.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     Cowes lies extremely convenient for parties fond of aquatic trips:
+     for which purpose a number of experienced watermen ply excellent
+     boats: they are most frequently engaged in the short and pleasant
+     excursions to Beaulieu, Netley, Southampton (on the opposite
+     coast), and Newport; sometimes to Alum Bay, and even for a voyage
+     round the island.
+
+     The bathing here is considered very excellent: particularly so at
+     W. Cowes, from the boldness and pebbly character of the beach,
+     admitting the machines to be put in requisition in all states of
+     the tide,--a very great advantage. There are also hot and other
+     baths for the use of invalids, both at the machines and at certain
+     parts of the town.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+_The Road from East Cowes to Ryde._
+
+WHIPPINGHAM CHURCH stands near the second mile-stone, on the ascent of a
+hill rising from the eastern bank of the Medina: it is perhaps the
+neatest _old_ ecclesiastical structure in the island, and is frequently
+attended by her Majesty and Prince Albert when residing at Osborne.
+Close by are the Parsonages and PADMORE HOUSE, embosomed in groves, and
+commanding an extensive prospect--the nearest object on the opposite
+side of the river being the ancient though plain church of Northwood.
+Altogether this is a very pleasing rural spot, and to visit it will make
+the difference of only a few minutes in diverging from the regular road.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+WOOTTON-BRIDGE.
+
+Here we pass over an inlet of the sea, indifferently called Fishbourne
+Creek or Wootton River; the cottages border the road on either side, and
+have a remarkably clean and comfortable appearance. There are also a few
+good houses: the Parsonage, though rather secluded, enjoys a charming
+marine prospect; and _Kite-hill_ will be known by its antique aspect and
+screen of lofty firs. But the pride of the place is FERNHILL, a
+first-rate seat: the house is built in the light Gothic style, and
+stands at the head of an extensive lawn sloping to the water,
+interspersed with groups of trees and flourishing plantations.
+
+     We shall often see the prospect-tower of Fernhill peering above the
+     masses of variegated foliage; and indeed the whole has much the air
+     of a religious structure, enjoying one of those happy localities
+     which distinguished such retreats of former days. The opposite
+     banks of the river, or rather lake, are clothed with the finest
+     oak-woods in the island, feathering from the very water's edge; and
+     the whole neighbourhood presents the rich appearance of an
+     extensive forest covering hill and dale. Should therefore the
+     visitor reach this spot at the favorable concurrence of high water
+     on a calm sunny day, he will agree with us that the whole forms a
+     splendid landscape,--_rock_ being in fact the only feature denied
+     to make it perfect.
+
+     Excellent roads have recently been made (by the proprietor of the
+     estate,) on the west side of the river, below the bridge: affording
+     a very pleasant drive; and as they open many delightful sites, will
+     probably cause a considerable accession of buildings in that
+     direction.
+
+     At the mouth of the creek on the east side is a large hamlet called
+     FISHHOUSE, including a dockyard, where several frigates have been
+     built.
+
+WOOTTON COMMON is a mile nearer Newport: and affords an instance within
+a few years of a wild tract of gorse and brambles being profitably
+converted to tillage and garden. Here too are several scattered
+dwellings forming an improving hamlet; and in one of them (called in
+courtesy _Landscape Cottage_,) was produced _in all its stages_ the
+present little work, as well as its other kindred publications.
+
+About midway between Wootton and Ryde, on the sea side of the road, we
+pass the remains of
+
+
+QUARR ABBEY,
+
+The most considerable ecclesiastical establishment ever founded in the
+Isle of Wight, which had, like every other part of Great Britain,
+previous to the Reformation, its full share of monastic and other
+religious institutions. This was among the first settlements of the
+Cistercian Order in England, having been built in the 12th century; was
+most amply endowed, and had several illustrious persons buried in the
+chapel, to whose memory sumptuous monuments were erected; but after its
+dissolution, the property was purchased by a merchant of Southampton,
+and the sacred edifice _reduced for the value of the bare materials_.
+
+     The merchant's son afterwards sold the estate to the Lord Chief
+     Justice, Sir Thomas Fleming, with whose descendants it still
+     remains. Some of the outer walls are still extant, and must have
+     circumscribed at least 20 acres. A foot-path passes through the
+     grounds to Ryde, &c.
+
+     Of this once-magnificent establishment little now remains; merely
+     portions of the appendant offices, which were converted into barns,
+     &c., for farm-purposes. What was spared in the moment of ruthless
+     spoliation, lay long buried under heaps of rubbish and weeds--till
+     a few years since, when one of the occupiers, with laudable zeal,
+     rescued from total annihilation the few remaining fragments, which
+     are now open to the view of strangers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     The other Religious Structures
+
+     Scattered through the island were ... a Priory at St. Helen's; one
+     at Appuldurcombe; one at St. Cross, near Newport; and another at
+     Carisbrooke, vestiges of which may still be traced; together with a
+     great number of oratories, chantries, chapels, and religious
+     houses, amounting in the whole to 70 or 80, exclusive of the
+     regular parish-churches;--and yet scarcely any of these interesting
+     monuments have survived their reckless doom to ruin and neglect;
+     not even a spiry fragment sufficiently large or romantic to form a
+     pleasing subject for the pencil, invite the mind to contemplation,
+     or aid the poet's retrospective muse.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BINSTEAD, to which there is a good foot-path from Quarr through the
+woods, is about a mile westward of Ryde. Several genteel residences,
+mostly built in a pleasing cottage-style, adorned by groups of trees and
+shrubs, are scattered over a wide space of broken ground, where
+extensive stone-quarries have been worked for many centuries. It is a
+favorite walk with the inhabitants of Ryde, across the fields to the
+church (not seen from the road), which has lately been considerably
+enlarged and improved. The names of the respective villas will be found
+in the List of Seats.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+RYDE.
+
+     >> _The best may of seeing this populous town, by those who have
+     little inclination, or perhaps less time, for perambulation is,
+     from the Pier, to enquire first for_ BRIGSTOCK TERRACE--_walk on
+     for about five minutes still westward--returning, pass by the_
+     CHURCH, _and round the_ TOWN-HALL, _and Market-place_, ST. JAMES'S
+     CHAPEL, _and the Theatre;--look into the_ ARCADE, _a little
+     below;--traverse the street nearly opposite the theatre, which will
+     open the eastern part of the town, where there is a handsome_ NEW
+     CHURCH--_and the very agreeable Environs in the direction of Appley
+     and St. John's, which ought to be visited if time could be spared,
+     going first on the beach, and returning by the high-road, a circuit
+     of about two miles._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+Ryde now ranks the first town in the island for the number of its
+elegant _modern_ erections, both public and private; and if building
+should be carried on with an equal degree of spirit for a few years
+more, it will also be considerably the most populous. It occupies two
+sides of a lofty hill, falling with a regular descent to the sea on the
+north, opposite Portsmouth, from which it is about five miles across.
+This short passage, from its perfect safety and general convenience,
+proves a great local advantage, being performed several times a-day by
+superior steam-vessels in about half an hour. But besides these
+established means of conveyance, large-sized wherries (most excellent
+sea-boats,) are in constant attendance to take parties across on
+moderate terms, or for hire by the day upon any aquatic trip, even to
+Brighton.
+
+The town used formerly to be distinguished into Upper and Lower Ryde,
+from having several fields between, but now it is only the difference of
+position which calls for any term of distinction; for where the green
+meadows then formed the separation, is now the most closely built upon;
+and at the beginning of this century, Yelf's Hotel stood a new and
+isolated object.
+
+The principal streets are very open, clean, and well-paved; regularly
+disposed, most of them crossing each other nearly at right angles.
+Several of the handsomest run parallel almost in a direct line to the
+beach, thus affording the very desirable advantage of an interesting
+sea-view.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE PIER being the first object to interest a stranger, and having
+contributed more than anything else to the advancement of the town, is
+well entitled to priority of notice.
+
+     Up to the year 1814, when it was constructed by a company in
+     subscription shares of £.50 each, landing or embarking was rendered
+     generally a miserable task, except during very favorable weather,
+     at the moment of high tide. The practice then was, to cram the
+     passengers promiscuously into a common luggage-cart, till it was
+     drawn out upon the almost level sands sufficiently far for a large
+     wherry to float alongside, into which they were then transferred,
+     and conveyed to the sailing-packet, perhaps lying off at some
+     considerable distance. The reader will readily believe that this
+     united cart and boat process of reaching the vessel or shore could
+     not be very inviting at the best of times; but it was really
+     terrific to weak and timid persons during the concurrence of a
+     heavy rain, and the tide perhaps at its lowest ebb!--to say nothing
+     of the horrors of a dark and squally night.
+
+     The length of the Pier is now nearly half a mile (being double the
+     extent it was originally), having had 500 feet added in the year
+     1824: the same augmentation again in 1833; and in 1842 it received
+     the crowning addition of a most spacious and well constructed HEAD,
+     which was rendered everyway more convenient for passengers landing
+     or embarking. This last improvement must afford a most delightful
+     accommodation for the gentry who prefer the pier for their usual
+     promenade; and where, from the great extent it stretches out into
+     the open sea, those invalids who are precluded from exercise, may
+     more conveniently enjoy the invigorating sea-breeze. It is firmly
+     constructed of timber: has four or five landing-places at different
+     distances to suit the state of the tide: a strong railing on each
+     side; and is furnished with several open and covered seats.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS_.
+
+The TOWN-HALL and MARKET-HOUSE affords the best proof of the public
+spirit of the inhabitants of Hyde in regard to local improvements: for
+this handsome edifice is on a scale to accommodate three or four times
+the present population. It was first opened in the year 1831: and the
+commissioners for improving the town endeavoured to establish a
+permanent market for cattle, &c., to be held in the large open space in
+front, but the attempt proved abortive--Newport lying so much more
+conveniently for the general resort of agriculturists and tradesmen from
+every quarter of the island.--It is remarkable, however, considering the
+spirit of the inhabitants for public improvements, that it should have
+been left to the year 1840, before the town was lighted with gas!
+
+The ARCADE is an elegant piece of architecture, though it does not make
+that imposing figure of its exterior, which the visitor would expect,
+when previously told that it cost at least £10,000. It contains 14
+shops, and a very large room for the exhibition and sale of works of
+art: every portion being finished in the best style of workmanship.
+
+     This bold undertaking for a private individual, we are sorry to
+     say, has not yet realized a remunerating return. The mistake seems
+     to have been in fixing upon a site which had no local advantages to
+     recommend it for a fashionable promenade; nor likely ever to become
+     a much-frequented thoroughfare, popular and busy. Moreover, the
+     tradesmen generally find it more to their advantage to engage
+     respectable houses in the best streets, where they can profitably
+     let lodgings, and make a much more attractive exhibition of their
+     goods. These remarks will also serve to explain, why comparatively
+     so few persons avail themselves of the extensive accommodation
+     which the Market-house affords.
+
+BRIGSTOCK TERRACE is a fine range of first-rate houses built according
+to a very judicious, uniform design, furnished by the late Mr. J.
+Sanderson. They command a beautiful marine prospect, as they stand at
+the head of a sloping lawn-like field, interspersed with several oaks
+and elms: indeed the terrace is the most conspicuous part of Ryde when
+viewed from the sea.
+
+On the west side of the town too is a very spacious square, comprising a
+great variety of tastefully-embellished mansions; indeed in every
+direction a number of elegant houses are constructing,--tenants being
+found for most of them even before they are completed.
+
+     A very few years ago it was quite an easy task to point out by
+     distinctive marks all the most important houses--it was only to
+     name _Westmont_, and the two unobtrusive villas of the Duke of
+     Buckingham and Earl Spencer. The stranger could then have no
+     difficulty in discriminating these: but now, to give a List of all
+     the residences that are entitled to notice with an equal share of
+     pretensions, however judiciously described, would prove perfectly
+     futile, and only calculated to mislead the stranger.
+
+CHURCHES and other public places of divine worship.--These of course
+increase with the population; for only as late as the year 1827, the old
+chapel, now distinguished by its graceful spire (and seen at the back of
+the terrace), was so inadequate in its accommodations, as to require
+being considerably enlarged: and in the same year another was commenced
+as a private speculation by Hughes Hughes, esq., this is a long, low
+edifice, remarkable for its neat interior: a third has since been
+erected on the eastern side of the town, of a handsome design both
+inside and out, and very conspicuous from its open situation and lofty
+spire:--all three being episcopalian chapels of ease to Newchurch. The
+Independents, Wesleyans, and Primitive-methodists have also their
+respective chapels, and one for Catholic worship has been lately built,
+of the most elaborate style of architecture, especially the interior.
+
+THE FAMILY HOTELS, INNS, &C.--Of these there are several, of various
+ranks, some of them vying in splendor and extent of accommodation with
+the best in the county (see the List). The lodging-houses are of course
+very numerous, and in every grade, from the humble _jessamy_ or _myrtle_
+cottage at 20 or 30 shillings per week, to the lordly mansion at as many
+guineas.
+
+During the latter summer months, the theatre is usually opened by a
+talented company of comedians. The shops are generally very imposingly
+fitted-up and well stocked: and in the literary and fancy lines are
+several excellent establishments--news-rooms, circulating-libraries,
+bazaars, &c.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+     _Aquatic Amusements, &c. at Ryde._
+
+     THE ROYAL VICTORIA YACHT-CLUB, established in 1845, numbers amongst
+     its members many gentlemen of the highest rank, and owners of as
+     fine yachts as any in the world. Their Club-house is a handsome and
+     commodious building on the beach west of the Pier; and they have an
+     annual Regatta in the latter part of the summer, when several
+     pieces of plate, etc., are sailed for by the vessels of this and
+     other clubs. There is also a TOWN REGATTA held about the same time,
+     for the purpose of giving encouragement to the skilful and
+     deserving watermen: the sailing matches being between the wherries
+     of the place, which are of a large size, and esteemed by nautical
+     men to be the finest sea-boats in the kingdom: and as the race is
+     confined to a circuit which can be distinctly seen from the whole
+     of the Pier, there is as much interest excited as if the prizes
+     were contested between larger craft. Rowing-matches also take
+     place; good bands attend--and the diversions of the day usually end
+     with a splendid display of fireworks, a dinner, or a ball. In
+     short, nothing can exceed the gaiety of the scene, when the weather
+     is at all fine: as it is made the occasion of a general festivity
+     by the inhabitants--and resorted to as a holiday by great numbers
+     from Newport, and the eastern parts of the island.
+
+THE SHORE presents, when the tide is at its lowest ebb, a wide expanse
+of sand, stretching for miles both eastward and westward of the Pier,
+preserving upon an average the breadth of a mile: here and there
+interspersed with ledges of rock, and the banks beautifully feathered
+with groves and shrubberies. In some parts the sand has accumulated over
+the mud in sufficient quantity to bear wheel-carriages (which is the
+case near the Pier): and is found to be gradually increasing both in
+depth and extent. The best time to take a walk upon the shore is
+directly after the tide has begun to ebb,--for the sand is then firm and
+cool to the feet; but after a few hours' powerful sun in calm weather,
+it is rendered sufficiently hot to give the flowing sea almost the
+temperature of a warm bath, on which account the bathing here is
+preferred by many parties to a bolder shore.
+
+     That part called the DUVER (now built on,) was remarkable as having
+     been chosen for interring the crew of the Royal George, a ship of
+     108 guns, which sank at Spithead on August 29th, 1782, by a sudden
+     squall, while undergoing a careening of her bottom, when nearly
+     1000 persons perished.
+
+Near the Pier are the bathing-machines, well attended, and in full
+operation; together with hot, tepid, and other baths for invalids.
+
+     THE PROSPECT.--As the _amenity_ of every situation depends, we
+     consider, greatly on the range and beauty of the view which it
+     commands, we here give a faint sketch of the one obtained from Ryde
+     and its neighbourhood: by which, however imperfect, it will be seen
+     by the reader, that few prospects in England can surpass this,
+     perhaps even in point of pleasing composition--but certainly not as
+     _a perpetual source of the most amusing observation_.
+
+     The foreground of the Pier generally presents a most animated
+     picture,--crowded with promenading fashionables; and surrounded by
+     numerous wherries, steam-packets, and other craft, at anchor or
+     gaily sailing about; a busy scene which forms a striking contrast
+     to the quiet sylvan charms of the home-coast extending many miles
+     east and west, and embellished by several delightful villas and
+     other marine residences, among which are Osborne Palace (indicated
+     by a lofty prospect-tower),--and Norris Castle, just beyond. We
+     have the Solent Channel seen from here to peculiar advantage,--on
+     the one hand contracting to the appearance of a noble river, and on
+     the other expanding and uniting with the open sea. The far-famed
+     anchorage of Spithead occupies the centre, with St. Helen's to the
+     eastward, for ships of war; and westward, the Motherbank and
+     Stokes's Bay, for merchantmen and colliers; hourly altering their
+     position with the changing tides, and their number as suddenly
+     increased or diminished with every adverse or propitious breeze.
+
+    "Majestic o'er the sparkling tide,
+      See the tall vessel sail,
+    With swelling winds, in shadowy pride,
+      A swan before the gale!"
+
+     The eye is soon caught by a splendid range of houses called
+     Anglesea Villa, on the opposite nearest shore, contiguous to
+     Monkton Fort; and is thence carried to immense mass of brick
+     buildings that form the grand naval hospital of Haslar, with the
+     town of Gosport in its rear; opposite which are the celebrated
+     fortifications of Portsmouth, with its noble harbour affording calm
+     security to the maritime glory of England:--Southsea Castle stands
+     a little to the eastward, and beyond that is the low level of
+     Hayling Island, where several handsome houses have recently been
+     built.
+
+     The line of Portsdown hills, on one of which is Nelson's monumental
+     pillar, usually bounds the view to the north; but in clear weather
+     our range of perspective embraces a portion of the South Downs
+     which is crossed by the London road near Petersfield: and on the
+     left, the beautiful retiring banks of Southampton Water to the town
+     to itself, backed by the woodland heights of the New Forest;--while
+     to the right it extends to the spire of Chichester Cathedral; but
+     with the aid of a glass even to Beachy-head, which appears in the
+     east like a faint cloud upon the horizon of the sea.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ENVIRONS OF RYDE
+
+May be characterized as being beautifully rural, enlivened by peeps or
+open prospects of the sea: for this is the best wooded quarter of the
+island, adorned with several charming seats and villas, and intersected
+by good roads.
+
+     But perhaps it ought to be here explained to the stranger, that by
+     _good_ roads, in the Isle of Wight, is only meant that they are
+     kept in tolerably good order: not that they are level, or even
+     gently undulating: for the very charm of the island consists in its
+     sudden alternation of hill and dale, producing a constant change of
+     scenery: one moment you may be enclosed in a sylvan theatre; and
+     the next minute stand on the brow of a hill, sufficiently lofty to
+     command an interminable panoramic prospect of land and sea.
+
+We will first conduct our friends along the shore _eastward_ of the
+town, for the distance of two or three miles. The principal objects to
+the westward have been already noticed (p. 41, &c.)
+
+APPLEY (about half a mile,) is a marine villa celebrated for its
+amenity: hence an excellent road to St. John's, where several very
+eligible sites for building on are to be disposed of: and a neat little
+church has recently been erected.
+
+ST. CLARE, another delightful residence: the house built in the
+castellated style: and the pleasure-grounds and very extensive gardens,
+truly exquisite.
+
+PUCKPOOL, a sequestered Swiss Cottage.
+
+SPRING-VALE, a pretty hamlet composed of lodging-houses.--A
+carriage-road hence by the back of St. Clare.
+
+SEA-VIEW (two miles), another pleasant hamlet, containing several
+lodging-houses: and having near it the beautiful villas of SEA-FIELD,
+FAIRY-HILL, SEA-GROVE, &c. A road hence to Nettlestone Green.
+
+The grounds of the Priory extend eastward for about a mile: the sandy
+beach the whole of the distance is remarkably fine.
+
+     >> _From the above it is apparent, that a Party may have a very
+     pleasant saunter just as far as may prove agreeable, according to
+     their ability for walking; as there is a choice of roads by which
+     to return, thus making a circuit of any extent they like._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We now start by the regular carriage-road for the rocky coast (commonly
+called the Back of the island), and first reach a hamlet on the rise of
+the next hill, named OAK-FIELD, and then ...
+
+ST. JOHN's, a first-rate seat,--mansion plain, but admirably situated
+for prospect, and screened by beautiful wood, as will appear in the
+road making several sudden turns, over-arched by lofty trees, especially
+the silver fir. Shortly the tower of St. Clare appears on our left:
+WESTRIDGE in a valley on the right; and several other minor seats are
+successively passed,--some partially seen through the woods and
+shrubberies, and others quite secluded.
+
+     >> From the hamlet called _Nettlestone Green_ (about two miles from
+     Ryde,) a carriage-road leads down to Sea-view, by which the party
+     may on another occasion return on the beach to Ryde, passing the
+     back of St. Clare.
+
+THE PRIORY is three miles from Ryde: it takes its name from having been
+the site of an ancient monastic cell--is a spacious, plain mansion, and
+ranks among the finest seats in the island: here too, much of the wood
+is uncommonly fine, notwithstanding its exposure to the sea-air.
+Arriving at ...
+
+ST. HELEN's GREEN,
+
+We are presented with a beautiful view of the Peninsula of Bembridge,
+Brading Haven, and the British Channel. The houses are mostly scattered
+round a large verdant square (which gives the name): and a spacious
+building, to answer the purposes both of a parish school and chapel, has
+been lately supplied by the liberality of a resident gentleman. But the
+chief object of curiosity here is THE OLD CHURCH-TOWER, _standing now at
+the water's edge_, and still struggling against the further
+"encroachment of the sea," which in the year 1719, was such as to oblige
+the parishioners to build another place of worship in a more secure
+situation: this we passed near the Priory. The old tower was
+strengthened with a thick facing of brick-work, and painted white; for
+it was required to be preserved as a landmark to ships entering the
+roadsted. There is something extremely tranquil and pleasing in the
+whole of the scene,--and though the composition is simple, forms an
+excellent subject for a sketch.
+
+     >> The Party may either cross the ferry with their vehicle to
+     Bembridge--for there is a good horse-boat in attendance, and drive
+     round Yaverland and Brading; or they may go to the latter place at
+     once; returning over the downs to Ashey Sea-mark, which affords an
+     almost unrivaled prospect,--and hence descend towards Ryde, making
+     altogether a charming circuit of about sixteen miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BRADING HAVEN
+
+[Illustration: BRADING HAVEN, _As viewed from Bembridge Mill looking
+across to the Town of Brading, Nunwell, &c._ ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+Exhibits during high water the beautiful appearance of an extensive
+lake: but at the recess of the tide, a mere waste of sand and ooze,
+comprehending above 800 acres.
+
+     As the sea comes through a very narrow inlet at St. Helen's,
+     several unsuccessful attempts have been made to recover from its
+     usurpation so valuable a tract of land:--in 1630 the famous Sir H.
+     Middleton was engaged, and indeed succeeded for a short time, by
+     means of a bank of peculiar construction. But the sea brought up so
+     much sand, ooze, and weeds, as to choke up the passage for the
+     discharge of the fresh water, which accumulating, in a wet season
+     and a spring-tide, made an irreparable breach, and thus ended an
+     experiment which _then_ cost altogether about £7000. "And after
+     all, the nature of the ground did not answer the expectations of
+     the undertakers; for though that part adjoining Brading proved
+     tolerably good, nearly one-half of it was found to be a light
+     running sand." But it should be observed, that previous to the
+     above attempt, several of the rich meadows contiguous to the haven
+     were at different times taken in.
+
+     One circumstance was very remarkable: namely, A WELL, cased with
+     stone, was discovered near the middle of the haven;--an
+     incontestible evidence, that at some remote period, the spot was in
+     a very different condition.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     To the very remarkable CHANGE which appears (by the discovery of a
+     well,) to have taken place in the condition of the haven--and the
+     threatened existence of St. Helen's Church, from the "encroachment
+     of the sea,"--we beg to call the attention of our more reflecting
+     readers. History and tradition are silent as to the cause; and the
+     popular opinion of the present day briefly dismisses the question
+     by ascribing it to an increased elevation of the sea. But this
+     hypothesis is not supported by the appearance of the coast
+     immediately to the westward of the haven, where some creeks or
+     inlets _have become dry_; a circumstance which induced the Rev. P.
+     Wyndham, who wrote almost the first intelligent Guide to the
+     island, to conclude that there actually had been a secession of
+     tides in this quarter; yet, singular enough, he makes no allusion
+     either to the haven or the church. Now as there is really no
+     evidence whatever in the neighbourhood that would lead us to
+     suppose in the slightest degree, that the sea has encroached upon
+     the land _by its gaining a higher_ GENERAL _level_ (an idea
+     deprecated by many eminent geologists), we must take the
+     alternative in accounting for the phenomenon, and infer that the
+     land of the haven must have SUNK at some very distant period, and
+     that more recently, the same fate attended the foundations of the
+     church, which certainly could not have been originally built so
+     very close to the water's edge, as to be constantly enveloped in
+     sea-foam during every fresh breeze from the east.
+
+     Analagous to the above mutation in the state of the land, is the
+     following singular fact related by Sir Rd. Worsley, of
+     Appuldurcombe, who, living as it were on the spot, was not likely
+     to be imposed upon. The reader is to picture to himself three very
+     high downs standing nearly in a line,--St. Catharine's, Week, and
+     Shanklin: the latter, when Sir Richard wrote the account in 1781,
+     he guessed to be about 100 feet higher than Week Down, but which
+     "was barely visible" over the latter from St. Catharine's, in the
+     younger days of many of the old inhabitants of Chale, and who had
+     also been told by their fathers that at one time Shanklin could be
+     seen only from the top of the beacon on St. Catharine's. "This
+     testimony, if allowed," says the worthy baronet, "argues either a
+     sinking of the intermediate down, or a rising of one of the other
+     hills, the causes of which are left for philosophical
+     investigation:" and so with respect to the haven and the church, we
+     leave it as a curious question to amuse our scientific
+     friends--whether it is the sea that has risen, or the land which
+     has subsided?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BEMBRIDGE.
+
+     >> _This is a peninsula about three miles long by one broad,
+     terminating abruptly on the sea-side in a range of_ SUBLIME CHALK
+     PRECIPICES. _The part easily accessible to strangers is White-cliff
+     Bay, two miles from the ferry._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     On account of the inconvenient situation of Bembridge as to the
+     usual _routes_, it is not so much visited as Freshwater, whose
+     precipices are on rather a grander scale, and the most celebrated
+     in Great Britain of this magnificent species of coast scenery. For
+     this reason, and also as the cliffs of both places agree almost
+     precisely in their geological character (for they are but the
+     termini of the same chain of hills), we shall merge the _general_
+     description of the former in that of the latter; but we would
+     advise the stranger who may sojourn at Ryde, by all means to visit
+     Bembridge, if he should decline going to Freshwater; and if in a
+     good boat on a fine day, so much the better,--he will be well
+     gratified with the _brilliant_ spectacle which these noble "_white
+     cliffs of Albion_" present.
+
+Before the year 1830, Bembridge seemed to be shut out from intercourse
+with the world: it was very rarely visited; possessed no facilities of
+communication; and had no charms to call the traveller aside from the
+routine track. But owing to the WISE and spirited exertions of a
+resident gentleman, it was soon rendered a populous village.
+
+Among the first improvements was the erection (by public subscription)
+of a handsome little church for the accommodation of the inhabitants,
+who before had no place of episcopalian worship nearer than Brading: the
+next consideration was the establishment of a horse-boat, and other
+regular means of passage across the haven:--land was sold off on
+eligible terms for building; several tasty villas were soon erected, and
+ample shrubberies formed:--new roads were projected, the old ones
+widened and repaired, and travelling altogether rendered more agreeable.
+A respectable Hotel was also built at the same time, near the beach.
+
+The face of the country about Bembridge is pleasant enough, being
+agreeably checquered by grove and meadow, cultivation and open
+pasturage: but it is THE SURROUNDING PROSPECT which yields the chief
+pleasure. The situation of the Church and other principal buildings, is
+sufficiently evident to the visitor from St. Helen's, or as he crosses
+the ferry.
+
+The chalk precipices of Bembridge are named _the Culvers_, from the
+circumstance it is said, of their having been the haunt of immense
+numbers of wild pigeons; and they are now, as has been already mentioned
+(p. 21), resorted to in the summer months by prodigious flights of
+various sea-fowl. There is a small cavern called HERMIT'S HOLE in the
+face of the cliff, about thirty feet from the top; the descent to it
+however is steep and narrow, and it is comparatively but seldom visited.
+
+BEMBRIDGE LEDGE is a dangerous reef of rocks, stretching out into the
+sea a considerable distance: a floating beacon-light called "the Nab" is
+always moored within a short distance, to warn ships of their position.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+YAVERLAND. This is a straggling village near the sea-shore, between
+Brading and Sandown Fort. The little parish-church and the adjoining
+mansion (now converted into a farm house,) exhibit a venerable
+appearance, and being surrounded by groves of magnificent elms, the
+whole presents one of the prettiest _rural_ scenes in the island; and to
+the amateur of sketching, it must prove a treat. The Parsonage too will
+be admired for its appropriate character and pleasant situation.--Passing
+a few scattered cottages, our road will be on the pebbly beach to ...
+
+SANDOWN,
+
+Altogether an extensive village, containing several new houses built
+near the sea-shore, intended for letting as summer lodgings: some of
+them are large and splendidly furnished: and enjoy a beautiful view of
+the British Channel, the dazzling cliffs of Bembridge, and the range of
+coast for two or three miles in the direction of Shanklin. There is a
+church, newly erected in the upper part of the village: and a neat inn
+on the beach.
+
+Midway between Sandown and Shanklin we pass through LAKE, a pretty
+hamlet, having a few cottages that let occasionally for lodgings during
+the summer months.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BRADING
+
+Consists of one long, ancient street (through which is the chief
+thoroughfare from Ryde to Shanklin and the Undercliff,) and a few good
+houses recently built on the outskirts: it lies about half a mile from
+the haven; and still retains some of the privileges of an ancient
+borough. The Church is considered the oldest in the island; as it was
+certainly in existence early in the eighth century, though some date its
+erection so high as the sixth, and contend that the first islanders
+converted to Christianity were here baptized. On account of its
+antiquity, the numerous relics which it contains, together with the many
+well written inscriptions to be found on the tombstones in the cemetery
+(the most noted of which perhaps is the one erected to the memory of
+"Little Jane,") it is very frequently visited by parties making the
+southern tour. The surrounding country too is agreeably varied by wood
+and water, arable and pasture, and a very fine outline of hill and dale.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+To return to Ryde or Newport over the downs from Brading, will be found
+exceedingly interesting to those strangers who delight in the
+contemplation of grand prospects, and a most fertile and well
+cultivated country:--having no objection at the same time to a _hilly_
+road as the price of their enjoyment, and which _we_ call the most
+beautiful in the island.
+
+     But as artists are often enraptured with passages of scenery that
+     to others prove comparatively uninteresting, we subjoin a sketch by
+     Sir H. ENGLEFIELD, showing the deep interest and pleasure the
+     surrounding landscapes are capable of affording:--
+
+     "To enjoy in all its glory, the complete view of the northern
+     tract, which in detail presents so many separate beauties, we must
+     ascend the chalk range that rises immediately from the woods of
+     Nunwell. When the weather is clear, it is impossible to describe
+     the magnificent scene which these hills command, from Brading
+     Downs, by Ashey Sea-mark, and soon quite to Arreton chalk-pit.
+
+     "To the _north_, the woodlands form an almost continued velvet
+     carpet of near 10,000 acres, broken only by small farms, whose
+     thatched buildings relieve the deep tints of the forests. The
+     Wootton River winds beautifully among them, and beyond the whole
+     the Solent Sea spreads its waters, which in clear weather is tinged
+     with an azure more deep and beautiful than any I ever saw. The
+     Hampshire land rises in a succession of hills quite lost at length
+     in blue vapour. The inland view to the _south_ is far from
+     destitute of beauty, though less striking than the northern scene.
+     The vale between the chalk range and the southern hills is seen in
+     its full extent: and the southern hills themselves rise to a
+     majestic height. To the _eastward_ the sea is again visible over
+     the low lands of Sandown, and by its open expanse affords a fine
+     contrast to the Solent Channel.
+
+     "The nearer objects on the southern slope are also very
+     interesting: Knighton House, with its venerable grey fronts mantled
+     with luxuriant ivy, and bosomed in the richest groves, is as
+     beautiful at a distance, as it is interesting on a nearer approach.
+     Arreton is also surrounded with trees, which group happily with the
+     pretty church and an old mansion now converted into a farm: and
+     from the western end of the downs, the country about Newport and
+     Carisbrooke is seen to great advantage. _Such is the faint outline
+     of a scene, which, in richness of tints, and variety of objects,
+     surpasses anything I ever saw._"
+
+     _Note._--Since this was written, Knighton House has been pulled
+     down.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Objects between Brading and Newport._
+
+Our course will be for the first three miles due west. On the north side
+is NUNWELL, the oldest seat in the island, having been awarded by
+William the Conqueror to the ancestors of Sir William Oglander, the
+present proprietor. Noble specimens of every kind of forest-tree are to
+be found in the park: particularly oaks, several of which are many
+centuries old, the family having long employed every possible means of
+preserving these venerable chiefs of the grove. The house (a large,
+plain building,) stands at the foot of the down, and therefore is not
+seen from the road: but the surrounding park, woods, and farms of the
+estate, spread before the eye in a most beautiful style ...
+
+    "With swelling slopes and groves of every green."
+
+ASHEY SEA-MARK is very conspicuously seen, being seated on a high down,
+three miles from Brading, four from Ryde, and five from Newport: it is a
+perfectly plain, triangular object, erected in the middle of the last
+century to assist pilots in navigating St. Helen's anchorage.
+
+On the south side of the down appears the pretty village of NEWCHURCH,
+in the direct road from Ryde to Godshill, &c. The situation of the
+Church is rather romantic, being nearly on the edge of a remarkably
+steep sand-cliff, through which the road is cut, feathered with
+brushwood and several overhanging trees.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+If the tourist be returning to Newport, he will pass through the long
+village of ARRETON, whose church stands at the foot of the down of that
+name: it is of considerable antiquity,--and though its style of
+architecture is certainly heavy, is upon the whole both picturesque and
+singular. Its chief internal decoration is a beautiful mausoleum to the
+memory of Sir Leonard W. Holmes, bart.: and in the churchyard is buried
+the young woman celebrated for her piety in the popular tract of "the
+Dairyman's Daughter."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE ROMANTIC SCENERY
+
+OF THE ISLAND,
+
+EXHIBITED ALONG THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST, FROM
+
+SHANKLIN TO BLACKGANG CHINE.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SHANKLIN.
+
+     >> THE CHINE, _a beautiful woody ravine in the sea-cliffs, is the
+     great object of attraction; inquire the road to the beach, and you
+     will be conducted through the scene back to the village;--of the
+     latter, a, pretty good idea may be formed in passing through it to
+     Bonchurch,_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Here we enter upon the romantic scenery of the island. The village is
+most delightfully rural, and though it has several roomy lodging-houses,
+and two large hotels, still, from the bold variety of the ground, and
+the many shrubberies and clumps of fine elm and ash trees with which it
+is adorned, the dwellings are so hid from one another, that in almost
+every point of view it has the pleasing appearance of being but a small
+quiet hamlet. Except in the most exposed parts, vegetation flourishes
+with uncommon luxuriance,--even choice exotics: we would point to the
+Parsonage as an instance, enveloped in myrtles that stand the rigors of
+winter without protection: indeed it may well be said, that almost every
+cottage in this beautiful spot is surrounded ...
+
+    "With fragrant turf, and flowers as wild and fair,
+    As ever dressed a bank, or scented summer air."
+
+But the crowning feature from which it derives its celebrity as one of
+the chief curiosities of the island, is THE CHINE--a term that certainly
+does not convey to a stranger any idea of the scene: it is a provincial
+expression for a ravine or cleft in the cliffs of the shore, and of
+which there are several along the coast, possessing a beauty or
+sublimity that renders them highly interesting.
+
+Having reached the beach, the visitor should take a short walk under the
+towering sandrock precipices which range to the right and left for
+several miles, before he enters the Chine. Nowhere on the coast of the
+island is there a more charming stretch of shore,--for the sand is of a
+cool dark color, _firm enough for wheel-carriages and horses to be used
+by invalids_, and therefore proves equally alluring to the aged as to
+the young, to enjoy salubrious exercise and recreation; it extends
+northward to Sandown--about two miles; its monotony being broken by
+occasional pools of sea-water, and a sprinkling of weed-covered rocks.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE CHINE.
+
+[Illustration: SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT. (_Descent to the Beach._)]
+
+At the foot of the cliff stands a fisherman's cottage, which may attract
+our attention from its picturesque situation.
+
+The first view of the Chine from the beach is not the most favorable: as
+the eye of the spectator is much too low to comprehend all the deep and
+bold windings of the chasm, which contribute so essentially to its
+romantic effect: but, gradually ascending by a narrow path, we soon open
+a wider view, and should then pause, to contemplate it on every side. We
+see suspended on the opposite slope, the humble ale house, resting
+
+    "Beneath an aged oak's embowering shade."
+
+Just below it, a pretty rose-mantled cottage: and not far off, the gable
+end of a gentleman's villa, so prominently seated near the margin of the
+precipice, as to completely overlook the awful abyss. This view is
+altogether picturesque and animated: for the foreground is exceedingly
+bold,--and the prospect of Sandown Bay and the sublime cliffs of
+Bembridge, give wonderful brilliancy and interest to the perspective.
+
+As we advance, the scene becomes increasingly romantic, especially when
+we are about half-way through it: for the deep sides of the chasm so
+fold into one another as to exclude all prospect, and yet afford a great
+diversity of coloring, light, and shade; the one side being beautifully
+hung with indigenous trees or shrubs, and the uncovered portions of the
+cliff of a glowing tint; while the opposite side presents the contrast
+of a sombre hue, and is generally too steep to admit of much vegetation
+ever gaining a permanent footing. Nor is the most critical eye annoyed
+by the indications of unnecessary artificial improvements--which so
+often tend to destroy the delightful robe of simplicity that such scenes
+of Nature's creation wear, _when they are fortunate enough to escape the
+infliction of man's refinements_.
+
+    "Still slowly climb the many-winding way,
+    And frequent turn to linger as you go."
+
+We now approach the waterfall, at the HEAD OF THE CHINE; and should
+there have been lately any heavy rains, it forms a noble cascade of
+about 30 feet; but after a continuance of dry weather, it is reduced to
+a scanty rill.
+
+Ascending by a rude path cut in the side of the cliff, we pass through a
+rustic wicket, and take our leave of this celebrated scene, which has no
+doubt been formed by the slow operation of the streamlet in the course
+of many ages, insignificant as it may appear to a casual visitor in the
+middle of summer. The Chine of Blackgang is indebted for its origin to a
+similar cause: and this of Shanklin would have gone on rapidly
+increasing, had not the proprietor resorted to the aid of masonry,
+draining, piling, &c. to arrest in some measure its further progress
+towards the village.--See p. 33 of the "Vectis Scenery" for a full
+account of the formation of the Chines.
+
+The sides of this chasm are about 200 feet in perpendicular height, and
+perhaps 300 wide at the top, near the beach, gradually diminishing
+towards the Head or waterfall, where the sides are perpendicular, and
+only a few yards asunder.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The earthy precipices between Shanklin and Luccombe Chines are called
+DUNNOSE,--they form the southern termination of Sandown Bay, which is a
+beautiful stretch of shore of above five miles in extent, bounded on the
+north by the white cliffs of Bembridge.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As we pursue our tour we can trace the course of the Chine (above the
+head), by the freshness and luxuriant growth of the trees that stand on
+its narrow banks: and just as we approximate the little parish-church,
+pass over a bridge thrown across it--but the streamlet itself is almost
+hidden by wild brushwood and aquatic weeds. The spring-head is a little
+above the church.
+
+[Illustration: SHANKLIN CHURCH, I.W. _And the Road leading to Luccombe &
+the Undercliff_]
+
+The Plate represents the church, and a remarkable portion of the road on
+quitting the village for the back of the island; it is seen ascending
+circuitously the side of a steep down, between a hanging copse and
+several groups of the finest ash trees,--one of which (on the
+left-hand,) has long been celebrated for its amplitude and beauty.
+
+     It is quite impossible for language to convey more than a faint
+     idea of the magnificent and interesting prospect which gradually
+     opens to view as the traveller ascends the mountain ridge: the
+     British Channel spreads its blue waters as the boundary on the one
+     side; the greatest portion of the island recedes in the most
+     charming gradations on the other: and the Solent Channel presents
+     the animated appearance of a noble river, crowded with ships of
+     every description; while the opposite coast of Hampshire and Sussex
+     may be traced more or less distinctly for 70 or 80 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A series of pasturing downs stretch for several miles nearly parallel
+with the sea-coast: of these the nearest is Shanklin--its northern slope
+being abruptly broken by a fine range of cliff, composed chiefly of gray
+free-stone feathered by hanging woods, and on the edge of this beautiful
+precipice stand some very picturesque ruins called ...
+
+COOKE's CASTLE,
+
+[Illustration: COOKE's CASTLE. _An ancient ruin on the Appuldurcombe
+Estate--Isle of Wight._]
+
+Which being seen from a considerable distance in various directions, and
+never before published, appeared to the Artist to well merit a sketch.
+Sir Richard Worsley, in his History of the Isle of Wight, states it to
+be the "ruin of an ancient castle" (though it has been said that it was
+built as an object of view from Appuldurcombe House); but whether
+artificial, or really a relic of antiquity, is of little importance,
+while it proves so conspicuous an ornament to the scene.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+LUCCOMBE CHINE
+
+Is another chasm in the sea-cliffs, similar to Shanklin in its
+character, but on a very inferior scale: and therefore is seldom visited
+by those in a vehicle who have little time to spare. But many walk from
+Shanklin to it, either on the beach (if the tide be ebbing), or by a
+foot-path near the edge of the cliffs, the distance being about two
+miles: either way is extremely pleasant. A few houses and cottages
+scattered about, serve to enliven the scene.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We now approach a most singular and romantic tract of the south-eastern
+coast, dividing the claim of _interest_ even with the sublime scenery at
+the west end of the island: we mean ...
+
+THE UNDERCLIFF,
+
+Which commences at East End, and terminates at Blackgang Chine, an
+extent of above eight miles, averaging about one mile's breadth: and
+bounded on the land-side by a towering ridge of perpendicular stone
+cliffs, or precipitous chalky hills; presenting in many parts the
+venerable time-worn appearance of some ancient fortress. Between this
+craggy ridge and the sea-cliffs, every spot bears the striking impress
+of some violent convulsion, such in fact as would be produced by an
+earthquake: but in proportion to the time that shall have elapsed, so
+all the more rugged marks of devastation are either obliterated by the
+liberal hand of Nature, or converted into positive beauties. Originally
+the whole of this tract, or nearly so, was rock resting on a sort of
+loose marly foundation: this being perpetually exposed to the
+undermining action of the sea at its foot; accelerated in wet seasons
+by the marle being rendered soft and yielding,--it is evident that,
+sooner or later, such a foundation would give way to the immense
+superincumbent pressure, and be attended with all the direful effects of
+a real earthquake.
+
+Most probably other subsidences will yet take place, until more of the
+oozy, sliding foundation shall be removed, and its place occupied by a
+sufficient quantity of fallen rock, as will secure the stability of the
+ground; as we find to be the case for the greater part of this singular
+tract, which has certainly been in a state of repose for seven or eight
+centuries at least. Fragments of the cliff are indeed frequently
+shivered off, but rarely or never attended with any very injurious
+consequences: it is those extensive _landslips_ which are alarming, when
+many acres of valuable land are completely overturned and laid waste in
+a few hours. The huge masses of solid rock thus torn and dashed about,
+produce the grandest scenes of terror: but are at the same time the
+source of those singular beauties--that variety of fractured cliff and
+broken ground, which are the greatest ornaments of this romantic
+country.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+EAST END.
+
+     >>_The Tourist ought, if possible, to walk through this very
+     romantic scene, and if in a vehicle, be upon his guard that the
+     driver does not hurry him by it, as is often the case._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Here, as we have said before, the Undercliff commences: and as soon as
+the stranger has nearly compassed the valley of Luccombe, he should
+particularly enquire for the spot which is the entrance to this romantic
+scene ...
+
+    "Where twines a path in shadow hid,
+    Round many a rocky pyramid."
+
+The distance is only a mile: the carriage in the mean time may proceed
+on to Bonchurch. But should the party decline the walk, they ought at
+least to alight, and advance near enough to the edge of the
+precipice, to have a view of the interesting scene below; and they must
+bear in mind, that though it lies within a few yards of the road, yet
+_to a person passing by_, there is no indication of its being so near.
+
+The great interest of East End arises partly from its present wild
+character, and partly from its being the scene of the latest formidable
+landslips that have occurred in the island. In the year 1810, a founder
+took place which destroyed about twenty acres of land: this was followed
+by another, eight years after, that ruined in one night at least thirty
+acres more: at which time above twenty full-grown trees were uprooted,
+and several of them completely buried in the awful wreck. It therefore
+affords the inquisitive traveller the best opportunity of examining the
+cause of the peculiar character of this part of the island.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BONCHURCH.
+
+     >>_Formerly this was one of the most romantic scenes in the island,
+     but has lately been converted into a fashionable village. Amidst a
+     profusion of new houses, more or less tasty in their style--a
+     villa, called_ EAST DENE, _and the neighbouring old_ CHURCH_, are
+     all that will here particularly call the stranger from the
+     carriage-road._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In the year 1834, this beautiful spot was advertised to be sold off in
+small lots for building 18 or 20 villas!--a circumstance much regretted
+by the admirers of the peculiar scenery of the Undercliff, which was
+exhibited here in its utmost perfection. Nearly the whole of the land is
+now disposed of; some of the houses were built for the purpose of
+letting lodgings; one has been opened as a first-rate Hotel; but the
+greater number are private residences,--and certainly it must prove a
+most enviable retreat for families or invalids during the winter months.
+It is impossible for any spot to be better adapted for a number of
+houses being built in a comparatively small compass: for the whole of
+the ground is so romantically tossed about by the sportive hand of
+Nature,--presenting here a lofty ridge of rocks, there a woody dell
+adorned with a purling stream or a limpid pool, that most of the houses
+are completely hid from each other's view.
+
+     From the bad taste which too generally prevails--we mean the
+     _vanity of glare_--the affectation of _elegance_,--so frequently
+     carried out at the expense of all propriety, we were not without
+     apprehension that many of the gentry at Bonchurch would also
+     neglect the essential rule, that _the peculiar character of every
+     scene demands an_ APPROPRIATE STYLE _in building and decoration_;
+     for it avails little to have ivy-mantled rocks and mossy cliffs,
+     the sunny knoll and the shady glen, with their groves and
+     streams,--if the Genius of the spot be not consulted, and HARMONY
+     made the rule of every innovation and improvement. In a word, it is
+     too often in building as in dress, that many persons resort to show
+     and refinement as the surest means of attracting the world's
+     admiration for their superior taste and rank! But in justice to the
+     Gentlemen who have located in this fairy-land, we must acknowledge
+     that they for the most part avoided (as far as was possible),
+     disturbing the natural beauties of the place, and have studied to
+     make their happy retreats ...
+
+        "Smile with charms
+    CONGENIAL TO THE SOIL, and all its own:
+        For Ornament
+    When foreign or fantastic, never charmed."
+
+     >>The reader who may feel an interest on this subject is referred
+     to pp. 36 and 43 of the "_Vectis Scenery_."
+
+The most delightful residence at Bonchurch is called EAST DENE: the
+beauty of its locality is unrivaled; the exterior of the house in a
+chaste style; and the interior fitted-up and furnished at a great
+expense in the antique mode of the 16th century.
+
+[Illustration: _THE PARISH CHURCH OF_ BONCHURCH _ISLE OF WIGHT_]
+
+The Tourist should certainly visit the old Church, which stands near the
+shore, and not far from the road, though concealed from it by a lofty
+ridge of the fallen cliff: it is of simple construction, but beautifully
+canopied by a grove of magnificent elms, and is supposed to have been
+built in the 11th century,--which is taken as a proof that this part of
+the Undercliff was certainly in a state of repose at the time of its
+erection; and has undoubtedly remained so ever since. Still, we cannot
+question for a moment, but this spot must have been in some previous age
+(judging from analogy,) subjected to the same catastrophes which we have
+witnessed even in our own time in its immediate neighbourhood at East
+End. There is also a new Church, of a neat design, beautifully nestled
+amongst the rocks in the higher part of the village.
+
+As ROCK, in this part of the island, constitutes the chief source of
+picturesque effect, it would be an omission not to point out two crags
+which have gained quite a celebrity for their age and beauty: the first
+is _Hadfield's Look-out_, boldly rising from the road; the other a
+prominence in the face of the upper range of precipices, called _the
+Pulpit Rock_: the former has generally the appendage of a
+flag-staff,--the latter a rude cross, in unison with its name.
+
+The road through the valley of Bonchurch presents a most enchanting
+scene: shaded by noble trees; and edged by bold rocky knolls,--and a
+small pellucid lake and stream, beyond which appears a romantic tract of
+broken ground and wild brushwood, backed by the venerable grey
+land-cliff and the lofty brow of St. Boniface Down. On emerging from
+this beautiful spot, we have on our right a genteel residence called ST.
+BONIFACE HOUSE, situated close at the foot of the high down which gives
+the name; built in a very chaste rural style; and embellished by some
+noble trees, and a sparkling rill.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We now open a general view of the fast-improving town of ...
+
+VENTNOR.
+
+>>_This is the chief resting-place between Shanklin and Niton. The_
+CHURCH, _and the_ COVE, _are the most interesting features_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Ventnor has risen into importance with a rapidity greater than any other
+place in the island: for as late as the year 1830 it numbered but about
+half-a-dozen cottages, one hotel, a small inn, and the accompaniment of
+a humble grist-mill, so necessary in a _retired hamlet_ as this was
+_then_. But such has since been the eagerness for building, that land
+for the purpose which was at that time sold for £100 per acre, soon
+advanced to 300 or £400; latterly the price has risen at the rate of 800
+to £1000 per acre for the more eligible sites. And at present there are
+three first-rate hotels and several minor inns; well stocked shops in
+almost every line of business: and medical men established on the spot.
+Several streets of considerable extent are completed, others are rapidly
+progressing; and much has also been done in the way of public
+improvements, such as paving, lighting, &c. The new Esplanade, on the
+beach, cannot fail to prove a delightful convenience both to the
+inhabitants and visitors at Ventnor.
+
+It is greatly indebted for its prosperity to Dr. Clarke's popular
+Treatise, to which we have already referred (p. 16,) when speaking of
+the climate generally. Its progress was still more accelerated by the
+interest which the proprietor of Steephill Castle, John Hambrough, esq.,
+took in its success, by erecting a handsome church, a large free-school,
+parsonage, &c.
+
+Building being still carried on with undiminished speculation, the
+general appearance of the town must be consequently anything but
+agreeable--nor has there been the lapse of sufficient time for the
+growth of the shrubberies (however genial the climate,) to attain that
+size which would afford the relief of even a partial screen. Little
+therefore can be particularized under the present _changing aspect_ of
+the place.
+
+Among the buildings which attract attention in entering by the old road,
+are the connected range called St. Boniface Terrace, occupying a
+commanding situation, and the houses concurring in one general design:
+and below, some extensive erections, of rather a novel appearance to the
+untraveled eye, being strictly in imitation of the airy and picturesque
+style of the Italian villa.
+
+The somewhat confused appearance of Ventnor is no doubt owing to its
+unexpected advance having prevented the adoption of any uniform
+ground-plan, as would no doubt have been done could the proprietor of
+the land have foreseen the magnitude to which the place was so soon to
+extend,--for in this respect a considerable improvement is visible in
+the latest-erected part of the town. The most regularly laid-out streets
+are near the shore: and one branch-road runs by the edge of the
+sea-cliffs for about half a mile towards Bonchurch, thus affording the
+houses an uninterrupted view of the sea.
+
+[Illustration: To JOHN HAMBROUGH _Esq. of Steephill Castle, in the Isle
+of Wight_, _This view of_ ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH, _erected by him at_
+VENTNOR, _is most respectfully inscribed by His much obliged humble
+servant, GEORGE BRANNON._]
+
+ST. CATHARINE'S CHURCH is a beautiful feature in every respect, both in
+its exterior and interior, being the neatest in the island: and situated
+as it is on a commanding knoll nearly in the middle of the town, affords
+an admirable relief to the whole scene, by arresting the eye from the
+scattered glare of the surrounding slate-roofed and white-walled
+buildings,--which are almost the universal character of the houses.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The COVE presents at certain times a very animated and engaging picture:
+fishermen preparing for or returning from their voyage; invalids and
+other respectable parties sauntering or reclining on the sunny beach:
+some reading, others amused in listening to, and watching the curling
+waves expire at their feet in spreading foam. The material of the shore
+is principally fine shingle, or very small pebbles, among which
+particles are frequently picked up, possessing a brilliancy that has
+gained for them the title of "Isle of Wight diamonds;" and though they
+may be comparatively of inferior value in point of intrinsic
+quality,--still, the _interest_ taken in searching for them must prove a
+source of the most agreeable employment to those visitors whose health
+precludes any exercise of a more active nature.
+
+ST. BONIFACE DOWN, which forms a green back-ground to the view, is also
+an object of interest (at least with artists or amateurs of sketching,)
+that ought not to be passed by unnoticed. It is exceedingly steep: has a
+never-failing spring on its lofty summit, and is often cheerfully
+sprinkled with sheep, of the South-down breed, safely nibbling the close
+herbage on its precipitous side.
+
+     Speaking of the down, we should deserve to be censured by those of
+     our elderly readers who may have been to Ventnor ere it reached the
+     magnitude of a town, not to inform them, that _the then only Hotel_
+     (so beautifully seated close at the foot of the hill,) _is no
+     longer a place of public accommodation_; the license has been
+     transferred. Many were the respectable parties of the olden time
+     who used to amuse themselves with the attempt to gain the summit of
+     the down,--sometimes successfully, but more frequently at the
+     expense of a rather too precipitate descent, to the no small
+     diversion of their friends who had less daring to make the
+     experiment. In this age of refinement, such displays of rural
+     agility would be regarded as "utterly vulgar!" there are however
+     more circuitous and accessible paths by which we may reach the
+     eminence, and hence enjoy a most delightful prospect.
+
+     In concluding this brief notice of Ventnor, it would be very unfair
+     to Dr. Clarke, not to mention the fact, that he was decidedly
+     opposed to the residences of invalids (with pulmonary consumption)
+     being accumulated together "_in the form of a Town_;" he recommends
+     that a number of _detached_ houses should be built along the
+     Undercliff, each surrounded with the protection of a garden-wall
+     and a few trees. But, begging the Doctor's pardon, we heartily
+     rejoice that his advice could not be acted upon to any considerable
+     extent (except at Ventnor and Bonchurch); because fortunately the
+     most eligible and attractive spots in this romantic district are in
+     the holding of gentlemen who have chosen such for their _private_
+     residences: and certainly, if selfishness was ever pardonable, it
+     is so in this instance; nay, for our part, we really congratulate
+     the public, that the spirit of exclusiveness so widely exists in
+     this happy region of the sublime and beautiful. For what a
+     lamentable transformation it would prove of the natural character
+     of the scenery, to have many large and often glary houses obtruding
+     upon the eye in every direction! banishing all the _wildest_ and
+     most interesting local beauties, for domestic convenience or
+     fantastic embellishment! Where then would be the attraction to call
+     the thousands annually to our romantic isle? Where those UNIQUE
+     LANDSCAPES which now constitute its proudest charm?
+
+     And after all, the Doctor's objection to a residence in town, is
+     largely compensated for in the case of Ventnor, by the many
+     advantages afforded to invalids, that could be procured only in a
+     populous place: such for instance as regular stage-coaches running
+     to and from Ryde and other places; a good landing-place;
+     bathing-machines; a post-office and reading-rooms; the location of
+     several apothecaries and eminent physicians: tradesmen of almost
+     every description; and the facility of enjoying society in the
+     dullest winter months.
+
+Westward of Ventnor, we have a sudden and most agreeable transition from
+the glare of the town to a quiet picture of rural scenery, broken only
+by two or three cottages neatly built in the antique style; this is the
+commencement of the property of Mr. Hambrough (of Steephill Castle),
+which extends to St. Lawrence, the estate of Earl Yarborough; succeeded
+by Old Park; and near Niton, the seats of Mrs. Arnold, Sir W. Gordon,
+and Mrs. Vine: altogether a delightful distance of above four miles;
+which we hope will long escape any desecration of its beauties by the
+operations of building speculators.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+APPULDURCOMBE.
+
+This splendid seat, from its proximity to the Undercliff, is most
+frequently embraced either in the south-eastern or the continued Tour,
+in preference to giving it a separate day: therefore here is perhaps the
+best place for its notice, especially as the regular road from Ventnor
+to Newport passes close by: and as it is only two miles from the former
+town. It is thus described by Sir Richard Worsley, in his "History of
+the Isle of Wight:"
+
+     "The house is pleasantly situated about seven miles south of the
+     town of Newport: it has four regular fronts of the Corinthian
+     order, built of freestone; the pilasters, cornices, ballustrades,
+     and other ornamental parts are of Portland stone; the roof is
+     covered with Westmoreland slates. The grand entrance in the east
+     front is through a hall 54 feet in length by 24 in breadth, adorned
+     with eight beautiful columns of the Ionic order resembling
+     porphyry. On this floor are several handsome apartments, containing
+     many valuable portraits, and other good paintings; the offices are
+     very commodious, and on the first and attic stories are upwards of
+     twenty bed-chambers with dressing-rooms. The house was begun by Sir
+     Robert Worsley, in 1710: and completed by Sir Richard Worsley, who
+     made considerable additions, and much improved upon the original
+     design."
+
+Sir Richard spent a great portion of his life in collecting the
+paintings and other relics of antiquity which adorn the mansion, and
+published a very sumptuous descriptive work, entitled "Museum
+Worsleyanum." The Estate descended to the Pelham family by the marriage
+of the Baronet's niece to the late Earl Yarborough.
+
+The park of Appuldurcombe is extensive; and the soil being extremely
+rich, supports a great number both of deer and cattle,--the former of
+which is nowhere else to be found in the island. At the back of the
+mansion rises a lofty hill, whose sides are hung with groves of noble
+beech, interspersed with many venerable oaks. On the summit is an
+obelisk, originally seventy feet high, built of Cornish granite, to the
+memory of Sir Robert Worsley: but of late years it has suffered severely
+from the high winds, to the violence of which its elevated position
+renders it so exposed. From almost every part of this down we gain the
+most splendid views; below, is the rich vale of Arreton, Newchurch, and
+Godshill: beyond is seen on the north, Portsmouth and the neighbouring
+anchorages, with the wooded heights above Southampton Water; eastward
+are the beautiful shores of Sandown Bay; to the west the prospect is
+continued far beyond the white cliffs of Freshwater, by the coasts of
+Hants and Dorset: and on the south expands the azure horizon of the
+boundless ocean.
+
+N.B. Strangers desirous of visiting Appuldurcombe, must provide
+themselves with tickets at the office of the stewards, Messrs. Sewell,
+Solicitors, Newport: the days allowed are Tuesdays and Fridays, between
+the hours of 11 and 4 o'clock.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GODSHILL,
+
+Bordering on Appuldurcombe Park, is a populous village, chiefly
+remarkable for the very picturesque situation of the Church, a large and
+venerable pile, which stands upon a steep hill in the centre of the
+village,--commanding such an extensive and beautiful prospect as will of
+itself repay the tourist for the trouble of ascending. The interior of
+the church is enriched by several interesting monuments, ancient and
+modern, in memory of the various possessors of the Appuldurcombe
+estates,--the most sumptuous being that to Sir J. Leigh and his lady,
+whose marble effigies are canopied by a beautifully ornamented arch; and
+the massive tomb of Sir Richard Worsley, which occupies the south
+transept, where a colored window is placed to give it greater
+effect.--Godshill has a small country inn called the Griffin.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The distance from Ventnor to Godshill is four miles:--and thence to
+Newport, six: the country is well-cultivated, but presents no object to
+call for particular notice: we pass the hamlet of ROOKLEY: and the
+villas of PIDFORD and STANDEN.
+
+WHITWELL is a very retired village, winding between Godshill and Niton:
+and having a church of some antiquity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Returned to the Undercliff, the next place in our route which boasts of
+superior scenic beauty is ...
+
+STEEPHILL,
+
+[Illustration: STEEPHILL, UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+Where a splendid CASTLE was erected in the year 1833, by J. Hambrough,
+esq. (thence often called after his name), on a broad terrace of rock
+that rises almost perpendicularly from the present road: and here it may
+not be quite uninteresting to state--at least to some of our friends who
+used to visit the island years ago, that the castle occupies the very
+site of the once-noted Cottage of the late Earl Dysart, and which was
+for many years that nobleman's favorite retreat. Steephill was then a
+most charming rural hamlet; but the cottages are removed (much to the
+advantage of the tenants), to afford a scope in the grounds
+corresponding with the dignity of the new mansion. Rustic simplicity and
+the wilder graces have given way to elegance and polished decoration:
+but whether the alteration
+
+    "Adds beauties to what Nature plann'd before,"
+
+Is merely a question of taste, on which we shall not presume to decide:
+various are the opinions,
+
+          --"And many a stranger stops,
+    With curious eye, to censure or admire."
+
+As the public are now excluded from the garden and pleasure-grounds, it
+is rather difficult to get a good view of the castle; the best places
+however are ... a lofty knoll or promontory on the opposite side of the
+road,--and a rocky mound near THE CAVE, which is in the face of the
+sea-cliffs, marked by a flag-staff; and there is, close by, a path to
+the beach. Half an hour's saunter would be quite sufficient to enable a
+visitor to judge of the beauty of the scene--which at one time procured
+it the title of _Queen of the Undercliff_. If but five minutes can be
+spared, the tourist ought to quit his vehicle, and reach the brow of the
+promontory above alluded to, were it only for the sake of the delightful
+prospect which it affords.
+
+The coast of Steephill forms a pleasant little cove or bay, with
+remarkably bold and picturesque headlands: and the place altogether
+equals any part of the Undercliff in its natural embellishment of rich
+groves and sparkling streams, mossy rocks, and broken ground.
+
+     DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE.--In the design of this stately edifice,
+     it appears to have been the aim of the architect to combine, as
+     much as possible, all the internal advantages of a plain mansion,
+     with the commanding form and embellished detail which usually
+     characterize a castellated structure. It is not therefore open to
+     an objection which lies against many of the most picturesque
+     specimens of this dignified style of building--that internal
+     convenience was sacrificed to the production of bold and pleasing
+     contrasts in the face of the exterior: or that it was the growth of
+     successive improvements. Indeed, both inside and out, all appears
+     to be handsomely proportioned and well-arranged; while in any point
+     of view the whole presents an aspect of elegant simplicity.--The
+     general form of the castle is an oblong; and the most prominent
+     features ... one majestic square tower which springs from about the
+     centre of the north side; another tower of an octagon form at the
+     south-eastern angle; and a beautiful hall-entrance on the east. The
+     predominant tint is a dark grey: but the battlements, quoins, and
+     mouldings, are of a light warm color, resembling the Bath stone.
+     This opposition of tints has a most pleasing, chaste effect, when
+     closely examined: but at a distance the whole melts into a sober
+     hue, like the grey impression of time, and hence harmonizes the
+     more sweetly with the surrounding scenery. Both kinds of stone were
+     procured on the spot.--The architect was the late Mr. James
+     Sanderson, of Ryde.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     _Remarks on the Exclusion of Strangers from most of the Gentlemen's
+     Seats_.--However provoking it may prove to many visitors when
+     making the tour of the island, to be shut out from a view of some
+     of the most charming seats, still it may be justified in a
+     considerable degree; and we feel it our duty to repeat what we have
+     stated elsewhere, that we know several gentlemen who would freely
+     open their gates to respectable visitors, provided they could be
+     assured of every party being contented with a general view of the
+     local beauties, without indulging a too prying curiosity; and at
+     the same time would _refrain from plucking choice flowers, fruits,
+     and shrubs_, many of which may perhaps have been cultivated by the
+     hands of the owner with an affection of no little solicitude and
+     pride; and of course it is not always convenient to keep a person
+     merely to act as an attendant. But a more decisive reason with many
+     gentlemen who love retirement is, that from the island becoming
+     every year more and more attractive with pleasure-parties, an
+     _unlimited admission_ of strangers would at once annihilate all the
+     charms of rural seclusion; it would in fact be converting the
+     flowery walks of a quiet country-villa into as giddy a promenade as
+     almost any popular tea-garden in the suburbs of the metropolis.
+     Still however, speaking generally, it requires only some slight
+     grounds of introduction: and in the absence of the family there is
+     of course less difficulty,--it being then a privilege often given
+     to the servants.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ST. LAWRENCE.
+
+>>_The_ CHURCH, _here, is from its diminutiveness, quite an object of
+curiosity; and the stranger will also notice_ THE WELL, _on the
+road-side; but the_ VILLA _and_ COTTAGE _are both secluded from public
+view_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Here lawns, and groves, and op'ning prospects break
+    With sweet surprize upon the wand'ring eye:--
+    While through romantic scenes and hanging woods.
+    And valleys green, and rocks, and hollow dales,
+    We rove enchanted."
+
+The scenery of St. Lawrence is a singular union of the cultivated with
+the wild and romantic--a pleasing interchange of the elegance of
+splendid retirement with the unobtrusive dwellings of laboring peasants,
+scattered amidst sheltering groves and ivy-covered rocks. Here the Rt.
+Hon. Earl Yarborough has ...
+
+    "A country-cottage--near a chrystal flood,
+    A winding valley, and a lofty wood;"
+
+Long celebrated as the favorite retreat of the late Sir Richard Worsley,
+of Appuldurcombe Park, who embellished it in quite a classical
+style--planting a vineyard, decorating the grounds with models of
+ancient temples, &c. The house has since been considerably enlarged, and
+ornamented in the old-English style with elaborate barge-boards and
+pinnacles. At a short distance is the recently built residence of his
+Lordship's brother, the Hon. Capt. C.D. Pelham, R.N.--also in the
+Elizabethan style. By way of contradistinction, the original is
+emphatically called _the Villa_, and the latter, _the Cottage_. It is
+much to be regretted, that the public have of late been altogether
+excluded from the grounds--from even walking on the edge of the
+sea-cliffs!
+
+[Illustration: ST LAWRENCE CHURCH _UNDERCLIFF ISLE OF WIGHT_]
+
+The miniature CHURCH seldom fails of proving an amusing object with
+every visitor,--for it ranks among the smallest parochial places of
+religious worship in Great Britain: its belfry, the pretty little porch,
+and its several windows, are all in character; it has however lately
+been found necessary to lengthen the building, in consequence of the
+increase of population in the vicinity.
+
+[Illustration: _ST LAWRENCE.--The WELL near the Marine Villa of the
+Right Honourable Lord Yarborough.--Isle of Wight._]
+
+THE WELL encloses a fountain of ever-running crystal water, the soft
+murmurs of which combine with the surrounding scene to produce the most
+agreeable feelings; and it is marked by so much of that beautiful
+simplicity which is the foundation of picturesque effect, that perhaps
+no other object in its charming neighbourhood, except the little church,
+will afford the stranger more immediate pleasure.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ROAD FROM ST. LAWRENCE TO NITON.
+
+     >>_For the succeeding mile and a half, our attention will be called
+     to no one particular object; but we shall have the Undercliff in
+     all its native character, a circumstance which must prove
+     gratifying to those who admire Nature in_ HER OWN _attire_,
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The reader will be pleased, we have no doubt, with the following brief
+notice of this part of the coast, by the late celebrated Mrs.
+Radcliffe:--
+
+     "Oct. 15, 1811.--Passed Lord Dysart's beautiful cottage: it stands
+     at some distance from the shore, and has several distinct roofs,
+     well thatched: stands at the head of a winding lawn, with a fine
+     beech-grove, and richly-colored copse. The little parish-church of
+     St. Lawrence, perhaps the smallest in England, stands on a knoll,
+     and terminates the cultivated valley; immediately beyond which we
+     entered upon a scene of the wildest grandeur and solemnity. Many of
+     the ruinous precipices of the upper cliffs project in horizontal
+     strata, yet have perpendicular rents. Some of the shattered masses
+     give the clearest echoes: we stood before one which responded every
+     syllable with an exactness which was truly astonishing.--There is
+     sometimes what may be called an amphitheatre of rock, where all the
+     area is filled with ruins, which are however covered with verdure
+     and underwood, that stretch up the sides with the wildest pomp: and
+     shelter here a cottage, there a villa, among the rocky hillocks."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Passing a gentleman's residence situated below the road on our left,
+called OLD PARK (not from its display of sylvan honors), we should look
+out for a romantic ascent in the lofty cliffs called ...
+
+CRIPPLE-PATH:
+
+It is worth examining, being a curious instance of the formation of the
+bold horizontal crags and ledges which distinguish these hoary
+precipices. For some distance the path is in a sunken stratum of soft
+freestone, while the upper ledge of more stubborn rock overhangs it
+several feet. Having reached the eminence by a rude winding staircase in
+a rent of the cliff,--we shall be well repaid for our trifling labor,
+by the beautiful prospect which is disclosed of the Undercliff, spread
+like an extensive garden immediately under our feet. Many parties walk
+hence on the edge of the cliffs to Niton, &c.
+
+MIRABLES is another charming villa, through whose luxuriant plantations
+the road is carried for nearly half a mile, affording a most grateful
+shade: but, by the bye, at the expense of all prospect.
+
+    "Refreshing change, where now the blazing sun?
+    By short transition we have lost his glare,
+    And stepp'd at once into a cooler clime."
+
+The house is secluded from our view: it is in the plain cottage style:
+but the grounds are not surpassed for rock and sylvan beauty by any seat
+on the coast.
+
+We successively pass through the grounds, close and open, of the three
+following villas:
+
+THE ORCHARD (on the same side of the road as Mirables, and like it, not
+open to the public view): a spacious villa in the embellished style, and
+the grounds immediately in front being formed into a succession of
+walled terraces, where the grape-vine and the peach find a congenial
+aspect: the coping too is adorned with a profusion of elegant vases,
+filled with the choicest flowers, nor is a gentle fountain wanting to
+complete the Italian beauty of the scene.
+
+BEAUCHAMP, an unpretending residence in the simple cottage style, on the
+right-hand side of the road, proceeding to Niton: we catch a glimpse of
+it through the trees.
+
+PUCKASTER COTTAGE, the property of the late James Vine, esq., remarkable
+for its chaste and _appropriate_ design, _as a residence seated amidst
+colossal rocks, precipices, and wild tufted knolls_. The house, the
+improvements in the grounds, and every decoration, in character,--UNITY
+marking the whole: rather an uncommon circumstance, where there is an
+unceasing desire to give every grace to a favorite scene--and withal,
+ample scope and means to indulge the wish.
+
+The old road now makes a sudden turn on our right, and here occurs the
+only considerable break in the upper boundary line of the Undercliff
+from one end to the other. To the left of us, a considerable extent of
+land has been laid out and partly disposed of, for the purpose of
+building on; and new roads made accordingly: but as yet however the
+speculation has not been carried on with much spirit.
+
+At a short distance we come in front of the garden-wall of a gentleman's
+villa called WESTCLIFF, a beautiful and well-sheltered spot where the
+road abruptly divides, the left-hand branch pursuing the tour to
+Blackgang Chine, and the right to Newport through NITON, a village
+composed of a number of stone-built thatched cottages, some of which are
+furnished for lodgings; and has also a decent small inn called the White
+Lion. The Church is a pretty little object enough, standing at the foot
+of the down, over which used to be the only direct high-road to Chale
+and Blackgang Chine.
+
+Continuing on towards the Chalybeate Spring, we pass Westcliff, and come
+to the ROYAL SANDROCK HOTEL, placed in a most beautiful and commanding
+situation; it will be readily distinguished by its ample verandah,
+mantled with the choicest creepers.--Next to the Hotel appears MOUNT
+CLEEVES, a respectable residence near the foot of the cliff, surrounded
+by huge rocks and craggy mounds:--one of these is adorned by a small
+obelisk that serves to mark a beautiful feature which would otherwise be
+overlooked. The cottage-lodge below is a remarkably pretty object.--See
+the Plate.
+
+This part of the Undercliff is at once picturesque and lively; there
+being just sufficient houses to give the scenery a cheerful aspect,
+without intrenching too much on the natural beauties of the place.
+
+We now enter on a scene which gives us a complete picture of the
+Undercliff in all its genuine lines,--for it was the subject of an
+extensive landslip in the year 1799, when a tract of about one hundred
+acres was disturbed, the whole sliding forward in a mass towards the
+sea, rifting into frightful chasms, and alternately rising and falling
+like the waves of the sea: a cottage was overturned, but fortunately no
+lives were lost.
+
+[Illustration: THE UNDERCLIFF, _Between the Sandrock Hotel & the
+Chalybeate Spring,--affording the best idea of the romantic character of
+that part of the Isle of Wight._]
+
+The annexed Plate of "the Undercliff, as it appears between the
+Sandrock Hotel and Blackgang Chine," is introduced in order to give an
+idea of the _general aspect_ of this singular tract: the wall-like
+precipice which is the land-boundary rises abruptly on the right: the
+intermediate space to the sea-shore is broken into a series of craggy
+knolls and dells: the carriage-road threading its way between immense
+masses of the fallen cliff,--now conducted along the margin of a
+dangerous slope or precipice; and now descending into a theatre of
+detached rocks and wild vegetation; but even here, though the softer
+charms of scenery be wanting, it proves that ...
+
+                --"Whether drest or rude,
+    Wild without art, or artfully subdued,
+    Nature in every form inspires delight."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+>> _The individual objects in the neighbourhood of Niton, calling for
+particular remark, are few; notwithstanding the general aspect of the
+scenery is strikingly wild and sombre. The_ LIGHT-HOUSE _will force
+itself on our attention: the_ CHALYBEATE SPRING _ought not to be passed
+by unnoticed; but the crowning feature of the district is_ BLACKGANG
+CHINE, _a scene of the most terrific grandeur_.
+
+
+ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE.
+
+[Illustration: ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE NITON, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+The building of this lofty tower was commenced in the spring of 1839,
+and finished in the following year: the undertaking having originated in
+consequence of the loss of the ship _Clarendon_ (see p. 85). From the
+frequent wrecks on this most dangerous part of the coast, it is rather
+surprizing that such a warning friend to the hapless mariner was not
+erected before: because many of the catastrophes were owing to the want
+of some light or signal in the night, which could be distinctly seen by
+seamen long ere they reached the fatal shore. It is true indeed, that
+between 50 and 60 years ago, a Light-house was built on the summit of
+St. Catharine's down, but for some reason not known to the public, it
+never was equipped and lighted: and was in fact very soon abandoned. It
+has been said that the site was too elevated, that it would be quite
+obscured by fogs and mists in those very seasons when its friendly ray
+was the most required;--it might be so, but certainly that was never
+proved by the experiment: and it seems strange that these grounds of
+objection were not suggested to the projectors in time.
+
+The new Light-house stands near the edge of the sea-cliffs, at an
+elevation of about fifty feet above the beach. The stone Tower is 101
+feet high from the surface of the ground, besides the lantern of about
+20 feet more: and the foundation is of _solid masonry_ to the depth of
+thirty feet! The requisite offices for the two light-keepers are built
+round the foot of the tower, and are comparatively low, so that at a
+distance the lofty fabric appears as a magnificent column, or
+
+    "Like some tall watch-tower nodding o'er the deep,
+    Whose rocky base the foaming waters sweep."
+
+Inside the tower a broad stone staircase winds spirally to the top; and
+many visitors make the ascent, for the sake of the beautiful view
+afforded of the adjacent part of the Undercliff, as well as for
+examining the splendid and complicated lantern.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As the carriage-road now pursues its mazy course through ...
+
+    "Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly hurl'd,
+    The fragments of an earlier world,"
+
+We soon reach the locality of the SANDROCK CHALYBEATE SPRING: easily
+recognized by the low thatched roof of the Dispensary Cottage, that
+stands nearly on the brow of the cliff, as the water issues from a rock
+considerably below, inclosed in a plain piece of masonry. It has been
+proved by repeated analyses, that there is a larger proportion of iron
+and alumine in this than in any other mineral water yet discovered: and
+its medicinal properties are therefore decidedly indicated in the cure
+of those disorders arising from a relaxed fibre and languid circulation,
+such as indigestion, flatulency, nervous disorders, and debility from a
+long residence in hot climates.
+
+Great improvement has taken place in the neighbourhood of the Spring,
+within these few years, by _extensive draining_: thus preventing the
+land-soaks and springs during winter from settling into frequent pools,
+and thereby reducing the soil to the repulsive condition of a sterile
+waste of quagmire and sliding rocks, and in every succeeding summer
+drying up into a thousand dangerous holes and fissures. The ground in
+fact is now sufficiently firm to invite the builder to the erection of
+some good houses; and the surface exhibits a healthy herbage: roads have
+also been made to the shore. A large and handsome-looking house, called
+an "Italian Villa," has been erected on the east side of the
+Spring,--but if the architect ever copied such for his model, he
+certainly should have selected a site more appropriate, that would have
+justified his choice of style by its genial aspect, its greenwood
+shades, and the vegetative luxuriance of the soil.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The shore here is called ROCKEN-END RACE, being composed of vast
+confused heaps of rocky fragments precipitated in the course of ages
+from the cliffs above, and now stretching out into the sea for nearly a
+mile and a half.--Between this and Freshwater lie other formidable
+reefs, respectively named from the nearest villages, ATHERFIELD,
+CHILTON, and BROOKE; they are extremely dangerous: and previously to the
+erection of the new Light-house, occasioned frequent shipwrecks.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BLACKGANG CHINE,
+
+[Illustration: BLACKGANG CHINE, I.W. _Taken from below the new Bridge,
+which is a very general point of view, as the descent to the shore
+thence becomes more abrupt and difficult._]
+
+    "Where hills with naked heads the tempests meet--
+    Rocks at their sides, and torrents at their feet,"
+
+Deservedly ranks among the most striking scenes in the island, it is the
+termination of the Undercliff, and of a character the very reverse of
+Shanklin; for all here is terrific grandeur--without a green spray or
+scarcely a tuft of verdure to soften its savage aspect. It differs also
+from that sylvan spot, in being much more lofty, abrupt, and irregular:
+though it does not penetrate the land so far. Both have their respective
+admirers: this for its awful sublimity--that for its romantic beauty.
+
+At the head of the Chine is a spacious Hotel, close to the road, and
+distinguished by the name of the place.
+
+The shelving sides of this gloomy chasm are proved to be little less
+than 500 feet from the beach in perpendicular height; they are in a
+constant state of decay--more or less considerable according to the
+degree of rain and frost during winter: for the same description of
+soil, namely, a mixture of clay and loose absorbent marle, interspersed
+with veins of gravel, predominate here as we have seen elsewhere in its
+neighbourhood. The only relief in fact to the dusky tint of the scene,
+is two or three horizontal strata of yellowish free-stone, which give it
+a step-like appearance. The most remarkable feature is a tremendous
+gloomy hollow or cave, scooped out of the cliffs on the sea-shore by the
+united action of the waves and the stream: the latter falls over a ledge
+of the stubborn rock at the top, 70 feet high: and after heavy floods,
+forms a noble cascade of one unbroken sheet: but like others of its
+class, in summer fails in its amount, and often degenerates into a
+noiseless dribble.
+
+Nowhere can we get a complete view of Blackgang except off on the water,
+which is not always practicable: certainly not in the very seasons when
+the whole appears with the greatest interest,--when there is a strong
+wind and tide setting in-shore, and the face of Nature is shrouded in
+deepening gloom, with perhaps some hapless vessel in danger of being
+wrecked,--it is then dressed in all the congenial horrors of savage
+sublimity.--No one, a stranger to the sea-coast, would imagine how
+awfully the surges lash the stony beach in tempestuous weather: the
+high-curling waves break with a deafening roar, and mounting the lofty
+cliffs in sheets of dazzling foam, are wafted in misty clouds half over
+the island--even to Newport, where the windows facing the south are
+occasionally dimmed with the saline vapors, almost to an incrustation.
+
+The visitor will of course endeavour to descend to the shore; but this
+is sometimes attended with considerable fatigue and difficulty, after
+wet weather, to those who are delicate and infirm. For this reason, we
+have taken our sketch from near the new bridge, to which the descent
+from the hotel is generally easy: and from which the visitor may gain
+such a view as will enable him to form a very good idea of the whole
+scene. The windings of the Chine commence a little below the Hotel,
+which (as already stated) stands at least 500 feet above the beach.
+
+     From the proximity of several newly erected villas and
+     lodging-houses, it ought here to be stated to the visitor, that the
+     _true character_ of the place is in consequence greatly injured:
+     for the garish and obtrusive habitations of genteel life but ill
+     accord with that solitary and impressive magnificence which
+     constitutes the very interest--the sublimity and peculiarity of a
+     silent and cheerless scene, such as formerly were the aspect and
+     condition of Blackgang Chine and its immediate neighbourhood.
+
+     "There has long been a tradition that Blackgang Chine was once the
+     favorite retreat of a gang of pirates, and from that circumstance
+     its name was derived.--Without disputing the fact of its having
+     offered occasionally concealment and a safe depository to
+     smugglers, or even pirates for a time,--it is equally, if not more
+     probable, that it is indebted for its very expressive appellation
+     to its sombre coloring, and the _step-like_ appearance of the
+     strata, if the word _gang_ be admitted to have the same
+     signification as it has in a ship."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Between Blackgang and Freshwater are several other Chines on an inferior
+scale, partaking more or less of the same sterile aspect: such are
+Walpan, Whale, Compton, Cowleaze and the Shepherd's, Grange, Chilton,
+and Brooke: but though several of them are well entitled to notice, they
+are seldom visited, owing to their remoteness from the public roads.
+
+     >> It should be observed however, that though they possess less
+     scenic interest than those already described,--they embrace a
+     portion of the island most attractive to the geologist, from the
+     circumstance of the cliffs and shores abounding in the most
+     beautiful specimens of fossil remains.--We would moreover call the
+     attention of those visitors who may desire to examine into the
+     agency which has produced the chines, to the two called _Cowleaze_
+     and _the Shepherd's_--the latter of which has been formed within
+     the last 40 years, in consequence, it is said, of a countryman in
+     an idle moment turning the course of the small rivulet which had
+     hitherto run through Cowleaze. They are situated about a mile from
+     Brixton.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ST. CATHARINE'S HILL
+
+(In the steep side of which on the south is Blackgang Chine), is the
+highest in the island, or between 800 and 900 feet above the level of
+the sea. An ancient octagon tower stands at the top, built on the site
+of, or rather as an appendage to, a hermitage--originally endowed by a
+benevolent individual for the purpose of providing lights in dark and
+stormy nights:--there is also the shell of the old light-house mentioned
+at p. 79.
+
+The regular carriage-road between Chale and Niton used to be over this
+down previous to the year 1838: and we in some measure regret (although
+_celerity_ in travelling be now the order of the day), that it is
+superseded by the road then made to Blackgang: to the admirers of
+illimitable prospect it afforded a rich treat, "for language is scarcely
+adequate to describe the various beauties which present themselves from
+this elevated spot."
+
+On the northern extremity of St. Catharine's down is an elegant and most
+conspicuous object (72 feet high,) called the ALEXANDRIAN PILLAR: the
+purpose of its erection is perhaps best told by the inscription itself:
+
+     "_In commemoration of the visit of his Imperial Majesty Alexander
+     I, Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain in the year
+     1814--and in remembrance of the many happy years' residence in his
+     dominions--this Pillar was erected by Michael Hoy._"
+
+On the slope is a seat called the MEDINA HERMITAGE (formerly the
+summer-residence of the gentleman named on the pillar): the house is
+characterized by simplicity and neatness: and its greatest ornament is a
+large verandah, having a broad _trellis_ roof, beautifully intertwined
+with the sweetest varieties of climbing plants. From its very elevated
+situation, it commands a rich display of the country from Niton to
+Newport.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CHALE CHURCH
+
+Must be passed in the regular tour, going to or returning from Blackgang;
+stands close to the road; and though simple in its architecture, has a
+venerable and rather picturesque appearance--especially its square tower,
+which proves a great relief to the flatness of the view looking westward
+to the Freshwater cliffs: dates its erection in the 12th century; and
+exposed as it is to the rage of the elements, affords an instance of the
+stability which characterizes the structures of antiquity.
+
+The cemetery of Chale incloses many a shipwrecked mariner--no doubt some
+hundreds who were deposited, in the course of ages, without any memento
+whatever: but the public are now more interested, from the circumstance
+of the unfortunate sufferers in the wreck of the ship Clarendon being
+here interred,--to whose memory tombstones are erected, on which the
+date and other particulars of their melancholy fate are recorded.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     WRECKS ON THE SOUTHERN COAST.
+
+     We have already stated how dangerous this part of the coast is
+     during a south or south-west wind, to vessels unmanageable in a
+     storm: and previously to the erection of the new Light-house, few
+     winters passed without two or more wrecks occurring between Niton
+     and Freshwater Bay. In former times, the _waifs_, or possession of
+     such remains of ships or their cargoes as were washed ashore, seems
+     to have been a valued right of this, as well as some other manors
+     in the Isle of Wight; and many tales have been told of the
+     inhumanity of the wreckers who in those days are said to have
+     resided in the neighbourhood,--which, if true, are strongly
+     contrasted by the ready zeal and liberality which the present
+     inhabitants display in assisting those unfortunates whom the
+     furious elements so often cast on this fatal shore.
+
+     Of the numerous vessels which have been lost here in our own time,
+     the largest was perhaps the _Carn-brea Castle_ East Indiaman, in
+     July 1829: she left Spithead at nine o'clock in the morning, and
+     about six hours afterwards struck on the rocks near Mottistone: the
+     weather being fine, her crew and passengers easily reached the
+     shore. The size of the ship, and the remarkable circumstances under
+     which she was lost, attracted a considerable number of visitors to
+     the spot,--as she was not immediately broken up, though all hopes
+     of removing her were soon abandoned.
+
+     A far more disastrous wreck was that of the CLARENDON, a West India
+     trader of 350 tons, which took place on the 11th of October, 1836:
+     and will be remembered with increased interest, as the acknowledged
+     fact of her loss being mainly attributable to the want of some
+     warning beacon on the land, led almost directly to the erection of
+     the splendid light-house at Niton. She had 11 passengers, male and
+     female, and 17 seamen on board: her cargo consisted of sugar, rum,
+     molasses, and turtle; she was heavily laden, and had been about six
+     weeks on her voyage. The preceding evening was fine, and the breeze
+     favorable, and the passengers retired to rest in fancied security,
+     with the pleasing hope of safely reaching their destination on the
+     following day. After midnight the wind increased; but though the
+     ship drove rapidly before it, no danger was perceived till about
+     day-break,--when, already in the surf, there was no longer a
+     possibility of escape. The crew immediately proceeded to set all
+     sail the storm would permit, in hopes of weathering the point; but
+     their gallant efforts could not long delay the fate of the doomed
+     vessel, she continued to drift towards the beach, on which she
+     struck a little before six o'clock, and within five minutes was
+     totally demolished. It would be a useless attempt to describe the
+     horrors of that short but fearful period: all that could be
+     gathered from the statements of the survivors was, that she twice
+     touched the ground lightly, forward, at which time all her people
+     were assembled on the deck; and presently one mountain wave hurled
+     her broadside on the beach with such stupendous force, that the
+     huge hull at once parted into a thousand fragments! The frightful
+     brevity of the whole catastrophe prevented any measures being taken
+     for the relief of the passengers and crew, although the ship was
+     scarcely twice her own length from the cliff; and all perished
+     except the mate and two seamen, who were rescued by the courageous
+     exertions of some countrymen who had hastened to the spot as soon
+     as dawn disclosed the inevitable danger of the vessel.--For some
+     hours afterwards a hideous spectacle was here presented,--the naked
+     and mangled bodies of the unfortunate sufferers, with the remains
+     of the vessel and cargo, were tossed about in dire confusion by the
+     raging waves, or dashed again and again on the stony beach; but
+     before the close of the day, most of the former had been drawn
+     ashore, and the broken fragments of the wreck were strewed on the
+     beach for several miles. Six of the passengers (an officer named
+     Shore, his wife, and daughters,) were buried in Newport churchyard,
+     where a monument has since been erected to their memory; and it is
+     a strange fact that the premises which adjoin that cemetery on the
+     western side, had been but a short time previously engaged for
+     their reception by a near relative, who there anxiously awaited the
+     ship's arrival. Most of the others (as already mentioned,) were
+     interred at Chale.
+
+     Subsequently, the wrecks on the island coast have been less
+     numerous, and rarely accompanied by loss of life or any other
+     circumstance of particular interest: the case of H.M. Steam-sloop
+     SPHYNX, however, having excited so large a share of public
+     attention, claims a brief notice. Returning from her first voyage
+     to Africa, she neared the coast during a thick fog about six
+     o'clock on the morning of Jan. 16, 1847: and by the force of her
+     engines was driven over the outer ledge (off Brooke), and firmly
+     fixed in the clay beds within. The suddenness of the accident
+     caused great alarm amongst her crew and passengers (300 in number):
+     and the startling discharges of her heavy artillery quickly aroused
+     the inhabitants for miles round: but daylight and the ebbing tide
+     enabled her people to reach land with no great
+     difficulty,--although a boat, sent to her from another war-steamer,
+     capsized with the loss of seven men. For nearly two months,
+     repeated efforts were made to extricate the Sphynx from her awkward
+     position: and after her masts, guns, and most of her stores and
+     machinery had been removed, and the hull itself buoyed up by a vast
+     number of empty casks, and some decked lighters (called camels),
+     she was at length brought off and towed into Portsmouth harbour on
+     the 3rd. of March. Her bottom had sustained considerable injury,
+     though much less than was expected from her having lain so long in
+     such a situation, and during several severe gales.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The VILLAGE OF CHALE lies at the foot of St. Catharine's Hill, and
+comprises a considerable number of scattered cottages: none of them
+however deserving a stranger's notice, except perhaps the Parsonage, and
+the Abbey-farm-house; the latter covered with the most luxuriant ivy.
+
+If the visitor be on his return to Newport, he will within three miles
+of it pass GATCOMBE, a small village, and a first rate seat: exhibiting
+altogether perhaps the most charming _inland_ scenery in the Isle of
+Wight:--
+
+    "Sweet are its groves, and verdant are its fields."
+
+The mansion is a large square edifice, extremely well-situated,--in
+front a fine lawn falls with an easy slope, shaded by many noble oaks
+and elms: and immediately behind rises a steep hill luxuriantly clothed
+with hanging plantations. At a short distance from the house is a small
+lake; and near the latter, the neat little parish-church, and the
+Parsonage, both beautifully embosomed in wood.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ROAD TO FRESHWATER-GATE.
+
+>> _From Chale to the celebrated Cliff's of Freshwater is about twelve
+miles; the first eight of which are through an agricultural district,
+presenting only so many agreeable pictures of rural life,--and of these
+the principal are_ SHORWELL, NORTHCOURT, _and_ BRIXTON.
+
+    "A simple scene! yet hence Brittannia sees
+    Her solid grandeur rise."
+
+     The fact is, the greater part of the soil is so extremely fertile,
+     as to be employed in tillage and meadow, almost to the exclusion of
+     woods and coppice, which constitute the chief ornaments of a
+     landscape. We have, however, nearly the whole of the journey such a
+     charming view of the ocean, as to compensate for the deficiency of
+     sylvan beauties.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+After passing a small church called KINGSTON, posted on a knoll, and
+surrounded by a few trees which bespeak their bleak exposure, we reach
+ ...
+
+SHORWELL,
+
+A considerable village, about four miles from Chale, and five from
+Newport; it stands charmingly sheltered in a curve of the downs with a
+southern aspect; has a pretty church; and boasts of the finest old
+mansion in the island, called NORTHCOURT, built in the reign of James
+I. This venerable pile has lately been thoroughly repaired: a necessary
+operation by the bye that has stripped it for a few years of its
+greatest ornament--the rich drapery of ivy which invested its lofty gray
+walls and pinnacles: hills, clothed with hanging woods and plantations,
+rise boldly around it; many of the oaks and pines, luxuriating in a
+fertile soil and genial climate, are uncommonly fine: the grounds too
+are embellished with a rustic temple, and a very elegant mausoleum to
+the memory of Miss Bull, the daughter of a former owner,--the whole
+scene indeed is replete with architectural and sylvan beauties. There
+are in the neighbourhood two other ancient manorial residences, named
+Westcourt and Woolverton, now converted into farm-houses: and the
+cottages of Shorwell are remarkable for their neatness and comfortable
+appearance, as well as for the abundant display of creepers and
+flowering shrubs with which most of them are adorned.
+
+Two miles further on we enter BRIXTON, a populous village in the heart
+of a rich tract of cultivation: is one mile from the shore, and screened
+from the north by a range of lofty downs. The Church is rather spacious,
+and not unpicturesque; many of the cottages are neat, some few furnished
+for lodgings: and there is a comfortable small inn. This place is
+commonly called Brison, and one clergyman names it Brightstone.
+
+MOTTISTONE succeeds: a pretty hamlet nearly shrouded in wood, with a
+very picturesque church. On an elevated part of the farm are the remains
+of some small druidical temple called LONGSTONE, which is a rude piece
+of rock of a quadrangular figure, evidently erected by art, and rears
+itself about twelve feet above the ground; near it another large stone
+lies partly buried in the earth, of not less than eight feet long.
+
+BROOK is the last village we pass till we reach Freshwater: much the
+same character as the others: the Mansion-house, which is surrounded
+with wood, being the only object to notice, besides the little church,
+which we shall presently pass, posted solitarily on an eminence near the
+foot of the down.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE WESTERN QUARTER OF THE ISLAND, DISTINGUISHED
+
+FOR ITS
+
+SUBLIME SCENERY.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Road over the Downs from Brooke to Freshwater-gate._
+
+     We shall now leave the familiar scenes of cultivation and of
+     village life for a time, to enjoy the charms of unbounded prospect,
+     as we journey for four miles over a succession of pasturing downs,
+     where in many parts our road will be upon a natural carpet of the
+     finest turf.
+
+     Tasteless indeed must be those who can travel over these lofty and
+     _beautiful_ downs, without experiencing the most lively
+     gratification from the checquered and magnificent prospects which
+     invite their contemplation on every side: but to enjoy the pleasure
+     in perfection we must occasionally pause, to discriminate (by
+     reference to a friend or a map,) some of the more remarkable
+     features.--Looking to the westward, the high cliffs of Freshwater
+     stretch away in a noble promontory of three miles, forming the
+     foreground to the soft azure perspective of the coast of Dorset:
+     but to the north, so diversified is the extensive landscape with
+     towns and villages, hills, woods, forests, sea, and river, as to
+     mock our most ardent wishes to convey even a faint idea of the
+     grandeur of the composition.
+
+     Another source of no inconsiderable pleasure, when traversing these
+     beautiful downs,--soaring as it were in the higher regions--is
+     feeling that we actually breathe the purest atmosphere, so
+     exhilarating to the human frame. Nor is the reverse of this
+     desirable clearness of the weather without its share of
+     amusement--to witness the formation of clouds, as the vapors are
+     drawn up from the sea, and gradually condensed; rolling by, and
+     enveloping us in their misty volumes. It is true indeed, that these
+     exhibitions are not without danger to the traveller, lest he
+     unwarily approach too near the fatal precipice: but this
+     circumstance imposing the necessity of caution, excites an
+     _interest_--and interest is the very zest of adventure. [Footnote:
+     Near the edge of the cliffs about half a mile eastward of
+     Freshwater-gate, a small tablet has lately been erected, to
+     commemorate the unfortunate fate of a youth who slipped over and
+     perished on the rocks beneath.--Some years ago two successive
+     keepers of the Needles Light-house lost their lives in a similar
+     manner over the precipices on which that establishment is located.]
+
+     In short, whether for the splendor of the prospects, the refreshing
+     purity of the air, or the novelty of literally walking in the
+     clouds, we esteem the journey over these downs, as pleasurable as
+     any portion of the tour.
+
+We shall now suppose the Visitor to be descending the last down, and in
+a few minutes, walking on the beach--here to commence his examination of
+ ...
+
+
+THE FRESHWATER CLIFFS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: FRESHWATER BAY, I.W. _(The two remarkable isolated Rocks
+and Entrance to the principal Cavern.)_]
+
+    "Suspended cliffs, with hideous sway,
+    Seem nodding o'er the caverns gray."
+
+>>_Several romantic_ CAVERNS _near Freshwater-gate: the Needles_
+LIGHT-HOUSE--_and the wonderfully_ COLORED SANDS _of Alum Bay, are
+accessible without taking boat: the celebrated_ NEEDLE ROCKS _are seen
+(though not to advantage,) from the down and beach: but the_ GRAND ARCH,
+_the_ WEDGE-ROCK, _and several deep_ CAVERNS _and other curiosities of
+Rock-scenery, can be viewed only by water, which is extremely desirable
+in calm weather._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE WHITE CLIFFS OF ALBION is so favorite a poetical designation of the
+English coast, that it is with some degree of pride we hail our
+"sea-girt isle" as surpassing in the magnificence and splendor of this
+characteristic, every other part of the kingdom; for even Shakspeare's
+cliff at Dover, immortalized as it is by the pen of the bard himself, is
+little more than half the elevation of some of the chalk precipices of
+the Isle of Wight,--which, at Freshwater, rise from the bosom of the
+blue ocean with a perpendicular face of the most dazzling whiteness, the
+sublime altitude of more than 600 feet!--being nearly one-half higher
+than the pinnacles either of St. Paul's or Salisbury Cathedrals.
+
+A stranger from the inland districts, who may never have seen a
+precipice upon a grander scale than is presented by the sides of some
+deep chalk-pit, would be at a loss to imagine wherein consisted the
+BEAUTY and the INTEREST of such seemingly monotonous scenes; especially
+when informed that they are indebted to no borrowed ornament from either
+tree or shrub: and indeed it would prove equally difficult on our part
+to furnish a comprehensive definition. One eminent writer
+enthusiastically eulogises their appearance as "_singularly elegant_
+when viewed at a proper distance; and with the Needle Rocks,
+constituting a whole that is scarcely to be equalled:"--another declares
+that "the most lofty and magnificent fabrics of Art, compared with
+these stupendous works of Nature, sink in idea to Lilliputian
+size:"--and a third, that "the towering precipices of Scratchell's Bay
+are of the most elegant forms;" and "the pearly hue of the chalk is
+beyond description by words, probably out of the power even of the
+pencil."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As almost every visitor has a card of _all the local curiosities_
+presented to him by some of the boatmen of the place, it would be
+useless here to describe individually the several objects deserving
+personal observation: we shall therefore confine our notice to a few of
+the most prominent,--commencing at ...
+
+FRESHWATER-GATE,
+
+Remarkable for the brilliancy as well as beauty of the surrounding
+promontories, of which an enchanting view is presented as we descend
+from the downs. The outline of the precipices is here extremely bold,
+forming several charming little coves or bays, and penetrated at the
+base by numerous deep CAVERNS of the most romantic formation, that are
+exceedingly interesting to visitors when explored. But what contributes
+most to the picturesque character of the scenery is the presence of
+several immense isolated rocks of grotesque shape, that rise from 30 to
+60 feet above the sea. Two of these will particularly attract attention,
+namely, the _Arched_, and the _Deer-pound_, [Footnote: This name was
+given to the rock from the fact, it is said, of a deer having leaped on
+it from the main land, when closely pursued by the hounds of the late
+Lord Holmes, about 70 or 80 years ago: at which time the separation
+could have been but a few yards! Whatever credit may be attached to this
+anecdote by the reader, it at least serves to show the opinion which the
+older inhabitants entertain of the progressive waste of land at this
+part of the coast (the face of the cliffs being constantly exposed to
+the weather and undermining action of the sea); and we remember it was
+but a few years back when the top of this same rock was covered with a
+considerable patch of green sod.] they are the remains of the original
+cliff, but being composed of more stubborn and adhesive materials, have
+long resisted the lashing waves and warring elements, while the parent
+cliffs are constantly receding and forming a wider separation.
+
+Here are two respectable Hotels: the _Albion_, close to the beach; and
+_Plumbly's_, on the cliff: both of which offer to their guests the charm
+of hearing ...
+
+              ----"The restless waves that roar,
+    And fling their foam against the rocky shore."
+
+The CAVERN in Freshwater Bay was formerly an object of no little
+curiosity to those who had never seen any thing similar of a more
+striking character; but the romantic effect, and consequently interest
+of the scene has been greatly injured by the fall falling-in of the
+arched roof. Now, however, visitors can easily investigate other caverns
+of a similar nature at WATCOMBE BAY (to which a good road has been made
+from Plumbly's Hotel,) where there is also a pyramidical rock, curiously
+perforated at the base.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     >> A very common way of seeing these precipices is to go by water
+     to Alum Bay, there land, walk up to the Light-house, and return by
+     the beacon: or take boat at Alum Bay, and sail round the Needles or
+     to Freshwater Bay, just as fancy may suggest. Some proceed on foot
+     from Freshwater-gate to the Needles Light-house (about three
+     miles), on the green sod, near the margin of the cliffs: other
+     parties again go round by the carriage-road the whole distance in
+     their vehicles. As, however, the grandest scenes can only be
+     visited by boat, we shall best perform our duty as Cicerone by
+     pointing them out as they appear in an aquatic excursion--that to
+     parties generally affords a degree of elevated pleasure to which
+     nothing else in the island can bear any comparison. Yet should the
+     weather be too rough for this to be enjoyed, the visit to
+     Freshwater may prove not the less interesting: since it is
+     impossible for any spectacle to exceed in sublimity that which is
+     displayed when a storm is raging around the majestic cliffs and
+     vast detached rocks that here encounter the winds and waves of the
+     British Channel:--
+
+    "Down bursts the gale--the surges sweep,
+    Like gathering hosts, against the steep,
+    Sheeting, with clouds of snowy spray,
+    Its lofty forehead, old and gray.
+    With sudden shriek and cowering wing,
+    To the wild cliff the sea-birds spring;
+    Careering o'er the darken'd heaven,
+    The clouds in warring heaps are driven;
+    And crested high with lawny foam,
+    Rushes the mighty billow home."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+(Another Hotel is situated on the north side of the down, within sight
+of the Needles, by whose name it is distinguished.)
+
+[Illustration: WATCOMBE BAY _FRESHWATER ISLE OF WIGHT._]
+
+From Watcombe Bay the precipices continue to increase in height till
+they reach their greatest elevation (617 feet) at HIGH-DOWN, on which
+the beacon is erected: they are however less perpendicular here than we
+shall presently find them; and the more sloping portions are covered by
+extensive patches of turf, samphire, &c., which vary the pure white of
+the upright masses, though perhaps the lofty appearance of the whole is
+thereby rather diminished, at least to a spectator at their base.
+Amongst the most remarkable objects in this part of the range are
+NEPTUNE'S CAVE, and LORD HOLMES'S PARLOUR:--the latter, a cavern of
+considerable height and breadth, derives its name from the nobleman,
+whose name it bears, having occasionally enjoyed a repast with his
+friends in the briny coolness of its shade, at least so tradition tells
+us: it can be easily entered by boat in calm weather: and when viewed
+from beneath its rough vaulted roof, has certainly a very romantic
+appearance.
+
+A little further on is the WEDGE-ROCK, a most singular result of
+accident; being a piece of rock about twelve feet long by six or eight
+wide, exactly the shape of a wedge, resting between the main cliff and a
+large mass of detached chalk, just as if fixed there by some gigantic
+hand to effect the separation. It is often practicable to land here, and
+it is worth while on the part of the young and active, were it only to
+be satisfied how extremely deceptive is the appearance of the rocks and
+broken green ledges, as to their size and extent of surface,--for few
+would suppose (in passing by,) that the piece near the Wedge-rock
+contains upwards of an acre of ground.--The pyramidical mass connected
+with the Wedge is about fifty feet high, and a hundred long at the base.
+
+     Our friends will remember (as has been before said,) that we leave
+     the history of many curious rocks and caverns to be given by the
+     local watermen; for personal examination will invest a scene or
+     object with a degree of interest which cannot be felt by the
+     reader, who may have no expectation of ever seeing them.
+
+Passing the OLD PEPPER-ROCK, a picturesque detached mass at the foot of
+the chalk--we find ourselves under the noble promontory of MAIN-BENCH,
+where the precipices again rise to upwards, of six hundred feet in
+height: and being nearly perpendicular, present a truly sublime aspect,
+viewed either from above or below: while the constant washing of the
+waves at the lower part, by removing the looser particles of chalk,
+gives it much the appearance of having been built with vast blocks of
+masonry. As the water is deep even close to the cliff, and beautifully
+transparent in calm weather, the reflection on its surface of the crags
+above, and the sunken rocks and marine plants which appear beneath, must
+add considerably to the interest of our aquatic excursion. Main-bench
+terminates in a bold bluff or projecting angle called SUN CORNER;
+rounding which, we enter ...
+
+SCRATCHELL'S BAY, universally considered by visitors as the most
+memorable spot on the island coast, alike for the grandeur, beauty, and
+variety of its scenery. The dazzling whiteness of the chalk is here
+relieved by thin curving beds of dark flint, which regularly divide it
+into parallel strata of eight or ten feet thickness; the towering
+precipices are of the most picturesque shapes; and the Needle Rocks form
+an inimitable termination to the scene. Just within the bay is the
+NEEDLES CAVE, the deepest along the whole range, as it penetrates the
+chalk 300 feet: but the _unique_ feature which above all the rest claims
+attention is the niche-like recess in the face of the cliff,
+appropriately designated ...
+
+THE GRAND ARCH;
+
+It indicates little that is remarkable at a distance; but a truly
+sublime effect is produced when the stranger is placed under its awful
+roof with his back against the concave chalk: for he then sees above him
+a magnificent Arch two hundred feet in height and overhanging the beach
+at least one hundred and eighty!--yet so true, nay, even elegant is the
+sweep, that it rather resembles the stupendous work of Art, than the
+casual production of Nature. To form an idea of the sublimity of the
+scene, the reader should task his memory with the dimensions of some of
+the proudest architectural monuments in Great Britain: and the
+comparison would immediately remove all doubt, that a sight of the Arch
+itself would amply repay the trouble of a visit to Freshwater.
+
+[Illustration: SCRATCHELL'S BAY, _And the NEEDLE ROCKS, as viewed from a
+bold Bluff called Sun Corner, being the termination of the Freshwater
+Cliffs.--Isle if Wight._]
+
+Scratchell's Bay is about half-a-mile in breadth; being formed by Sun
+Corner and the Grand Arch on the eastern side, and on the west by the
+
+NEEDLE ROCKS,
+
+Which stretch out into the sea a considerable distance: they are remains
+of the original cliff, and forcibly illustrate the destructive power of
+the ocean's stormy winds and waves, which in successive ages have
+removed so vast a quantity of the adjacent chalk. Nor are their ravages
+at all diminished at the present time: for it is only within the last
+few years that the smallest rock has been completely insulated; while
+another immense mass of the cliff is evidently separating by degrees,
+and will probably become ere long entirely detached, forming a
+magnificent pyramid two or three hundred feet high. It is impossible to
+convey by verbal description a correct idea of these celebrated rocks:
+for in passing round or through them, they assume a different shape
+almost every dozen yards; sometimes appearing like a continuation of the
+main promontory,--sometimes as one or more lofty acuminated
+pyramids,--or again we see the different masses extending in nearly a
+straight line, between which we catch a distant view of Christchurch and
+other objects on the opposite coast. The name (inappropriate to their
+present form,) was derived from a spiry rock, 120 feet high and very
+slender, which fell in the year 1764, having been nearly worn through by
+the incessant action of the tides: its base however is still visible at
+low water.
+
+     The _Pomone_, a fifty-gun frigate, was wrecked on the most western
+     of these rocks, on June 11th, 1811, when returning home after an
+     absence of three years; but owing to the fineness of the weather,
+     the crew and passengers, including some Persian princes, reached
+     the shore in safety; and most of her guns and stores were removed
+     before she went to pieces. "The vessel," says Mr. Webster,
+     "afforded me a scale by which to judge of the size of the Needles,
+     and I was surprized to find that the hull of the frigate did not
+     reach one-fourth of their height." The entrance to the Solent
+     Channel "through the Needles" was always considered hazardous for
+     ships of great burthen, not only on account of those rocks, but
+     also of the immense banks of pebbles or "Shingles" that lie to the
+     westward: recent surveys have however ascertained that the channel
+     has sufficient width and depth for the safe passage of the largest
+     ships of war.
+
+ALUM BAY.
+
+The brilliant and novel display of rock scenery which this spot affords,
+and its being easily accessible either by water or land (for a road
+leads to it from the north side of the down), cause it to be universally
+visited by strangers who extend their tour to this quarter of the
+island. It is bounded on the south by the Needles and the snowy
+precipices of which they once formed part: but its greatest celebrity is
+owing to the wonderful diversity and brightness in the cliffs on the
+opposite side, which are composed of sand, clay, and ochreous earths,
+disposed in alternate _vertical_ strata: and as the torrents of winter
+carry away vast masses of the soil, forming numerous deep ravines--an
+endless variety of the most beautiful peaks and romantic forms are thus
+produced. The colored strata vary in thickness from a sheet of paper to
+several yards; are now purely white, black, red, or yellow; then brown,
+blueish, or dull green,--alternating in a surprizing manner with each
+other, or blending into every hue: and many of the tints so vivid, yet
+so delicate, that they are justly compared to the variegations of a
+tulip, or to the shades of silk. "Alum Bay," says an eminent geologist,
+"is so extraordinary a place, that I am unable to explain in adequate
+terms, the surprize I felt on first seeing it. The scenery is indeed of
+a species unique in this country: and nothing that I had previously seen
+bore the least resemblance to it." This spot owes its name to the fact
+of alum having been occasionally found on its shores.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+And now, having pointed out the most remarkable features in the cliffs,
+it only remains to notice THE LIGHT-HOUSE, which is a gratifying object
+of curiosity to persons unacquainted with the nature of such an
+establishment, it stands near the extremity of the down, and commands a
+prospect of great extent and beauty, particularly of the unrivaled
+scenery of Alum Bay. The Needles are seen to most advantage from the
+water: but when this has not been enjoyed, the party should cautiously
+approach within a few yards of the precipice, "and to those whose nerves
+are proof against the horrors of the position, the new into the bays
+beneath, and of the cliffs and Needle Rocks, is extremely sublime. The
+agitation and sound of the waves below are hardly perceived, and it is
+scarcely possible to imagine that the quiet expanse which now seems
+stretched in boundless repose under the eye, is the same turbulent
+element which had but lately been seen bursting in clouds of foam, and
+thundering on its rocky shore.--In hard blowing weather, the fury of the
+wind on this promontory is scarcely credible. Very large flints and
+fragments of chalk are blown from the cliffs, so as to endanger the
+windows of the light-house; and for many days in succession, it is
+scarcely possible to open the door."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     The precipices of Freshwater, like those at Bembridge, are
+     frequented at periodical seasons by prodigious flights of sea-fowl
+     of various kinds. The birds are taken by the country-people at the
+     hazard of their lives; they descend by means of a stout rope which
+     turns round a crow-bar firmly fixed in the ground above; one end of
+     the rope being fastened about their body, and the other end held in
+     their hands, by which they lower and raise themselves from ledge to
+     ledge of the horrid precipice. The aquatic fowl furnish most
+     amusing sport to numberless shooting-parties during the season. The
+     principal species are ... puffins, gulls, cormorants, Cornish
+     choughs, the eider duck, auks, divers, guillemots, razor-bills,
+     widgeons, willocks, daws, starlings, and pigeons. Their
+     breeding-season is in the months of May, June, and July, and
+     towards the end of August the greater part of them migrate with
+     their new generations. Their flesh is too rank and fishy to be
+     eaten, and is used only for baiting crab and lobster pots; the
+     feathers are valuable, and the eggs are bought chiefly by visitors
+     for curiosity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ROADS TO YARMOUTH, NEWPORT, &c.
+
+>> _Having visited the western extremity of the Island, we
+return--either by_ CALBOURNE _to Newport, which is the nearest; or round
+by_ YARMOUTH, _this being perhaps the less monotonous road of the two._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The tourist, on leaving the magnificent scenes of the western coast, can
+hardly expect to see many spots in the remainder of his journey, capable
+of engaging his attention. He may still however enjoy some very charming
+prospects, particularly in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth, whither we
+shall now suppose him to shape his course.
+
+We shall pass two seats: FARRINGFORD, on the north side of the down,
+surrounded by flourishing plantations; and about a mile and a half
+further, the fine old manor-house of AFTON.
+
+THE VILLAGE OF FRESHWATER is prettily interspersed with wood; but except
+the church (whose front is more picturesque than most in the island),
+has nothing to notice;--unless it should fortunately happen to be
+high-tide at the time of our passing, and then the RIVER YAR will have a
+lovely effect--winding between gently rising banks feathered with grove
+and copse, shrouding here a mansion, and there a cottage; while
+pleasure-boats and an unusual number of swans are seen gliding and
+sporting on its silver bosom.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Passing over a neat bridge, and through the fertile parish of THORLEY,
+whose church is the plainest in the island, we reach
+
+YARMOUTH,
+
+Standing opposite Lymington, and once a place of considerable
+importance, having obtained a charter of franchises in the reign of
+Henry II: it is very clean and open,--and being situated in the
+neighbourhood of the most interesting coast scenery, is upon the whole
+an agreeable place, particularly for gentlemen partial to marine
+pleasures. Its chief support is derived from the shipping that anchor in
+its excellent roadsted, and the passengers to and from Lymington; there
+are three inns--the principal one (the George,) is a large ancient
+building, formerly the Governor's house, where King Charles II was
+entertained by Sir Rt. Holmes on his paying the island a visit in
+1667.--The Church has recently received the ornament of a new tower, and
+the interior boasts a good statue of the above-named Sir Robert. The
+Castle (as it is called), is a heavy, plain mass of building,
+constructed in the reign of Henry VIII to protect this entrance to the
+Solent Channel.
+
+The village of NORTON is on the opposite side of the river, where there
+are several very respectable villas,--so sheltered by groves and
+shrubberies, that the whole neighbourhood presents the delightful
+appearance of a bold foreland completely shrouded in wood, even to the
+water's edge.
+
+     Opposite _Carey's Sconce_, half a mile west of Norton, is HURST
+     CASTLE, built at the extremity of a long strip of shingly land
+     stretching out from the Hampshire coast, which here contracts the
+     width of the Solent Channel to less than a mile. Close by are two
+     Light-houses, erected for the purpose of assisting ships to clear
+     the passage through the Needles.
+
+Four miles from Yarmouth we pass through SHALFLEET, a clean and populous
+village: the Church is next the road, of a heavy construction,--yet
+affording a good subject for a sketch. Northward is NEWTOWN, a very
+ancient borough; which was a populous place in the time of Richard II
+(when it was burned by the French, but soon afterwards rebuilt), and
+though now reduced to a few humble cottages, the course of its streets
+may yet be traced. It has a new church, of a neat design; and is noted
+for its extensive salterns, and convenient haven.--Previously to the
+passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Yarmouth and Newtown each returned
+two members to parliament.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Road by Calbourne and Carisbrooke._
+
+The direct road from Freshwater-gate to Newport runs for the first three
+or four miles at the northern foot of the range of downs described at p.
+89; presenting no object worthy of separate remark till we reach
+CALBOURNE, a considerable village, having a decent small inn. The pretty
+situation of its neat little Church and Parsonage,--the handsome mansion
+and luxuriant plantations of a first-rate seat called WESTOVER, close
+by,--with a small stream running through the grounds and in front of the
+neighbouring cottages,--altogether produce a very pleasing scene ...
+
+    "Where sweet simplicity resides, which Grace
+    And Beauty call their own."
+
+Two miles further we pass SWAINSTON, another principal seat: the mansion
+lies below the road, surrounded by trees; a copious stream, well stored
+with fish, runs through the gardens and plantations, which are extensive
+and judiciously laid-out; and the prospect-temple which crowns the hill
+on the right is a very conspicuous object. From hence the road is on
+the slope of a series of hills, often picturesquely shrouded in groves
+and hanging woods; while in the more open parts some extensive views are
+presented of the north side of the island, the sea, and the opposite
+coast of Hampshire; but the prospect which is opened as we descend into
+Carisbrooke is particularly grand: the village makes an admirable
+foreground, backed by lofty hills,--on the left we see the town of
+Newport and its adjoining hamlets, with E. Cowes Park, &c. in the
+distance,--and on the right,
+
+    "High o'er the pines, that with their dark'ning shade
+      Surround yon craggy bank, THE CASTLE rears
+    Its crumbling turrets: still its towering head
+      A warlike mien, a sullen grandeur wears!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+LANDMARKS AND OTHER CONSPICUOUS OBJECTS
+
+_Erected on the Hills._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The fact of so many of the hills and downs being crowned with some
+far-seen object, such as a light-house, obelisk, or telegraph, must be a
+source of considerable interest to a traveller in the Isle of Wight, not
+only by their often giving an identity and attraction to many of those
+broad features of scenery which would otherwise be comparatively tame
+and monotonous, but also by enabling him to determine the bearings and
+situation of places in their vicinity.
+
+     We shall here name a few of the most conspicuous of these objects,
+     nearly in the order pursued in the preceding description of the
+     Tour of the Island:--most of them being visible from the
+     neighbourhood of Newport, which, as we have before stated, occupies
+     a central position. We shall therefore commence with Carisbrooke
+     Castle.
+
+     At West Cowes--the Church-tower, and Windmills. At East
+     Cowes--Towers of Osborne, Norris, and East Cowes Castle. At
+     Wootton--the Prospect-tower of Fernhill. Southward of Ryde--a large
+     Windmill. On Ashey Down--the Sea-mark. At Bembridge--Mill on the
+     Down. Godshill--the Church: behind which, on Appuldurcombe Down, is
+     an Obelisk and private Signal-station. On Shanklin Down--Cooke's
+     Castle. St. Catharine's Down--ancient Tower, and old Light-house;
+     on the sea-cliffs, the new Light-house; on the northern extremity
+     of the down, the Alexandrian Pillar. Freshwater Downs--Light-house,
+     and Beacon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TOURS OF THE ISLAND.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     Some years ago it was customary for the then limited number of
+     Post-masters to adopt a regular three-days' Tour of the island,
+     dividing it into the North-eastern, the Southern, and the
+     North-western; differing but very little except as to the _order_
+     of the days' excursion. Not so now--for a hundred plans would
+     hardly describe all "the Tours" recommended by the different
+     inn-keepers and numerous other letters-out of vehicles for
+     pleasure-parties; to say nothing of the wide difference between the
+     visitors themselves, as regards the _Time_ allowed.--We have
+     anticipated, we hope, every question on the subject, by the
+     arrangement in the preceding pages: but still it may be
+     satisfactory to some of our readers, to see the most generally
+     adopted Routes. The reader will perceive that _Appuldurcombe_ is
+     frequently left as the object of a separate day's trip.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CONTINUED TOUR FROM RYDE.
+
+    FIRST DAY
+                                   MILES
+    St. John's: St. Clare, &c.,        1
+    The Priory,                        2
+    St. Helen's Green,                 1
+    Bembridge (crossing ferry),        1
+    Yaverland,                     3-1/2
+    Sandown Fort and Village,      1-1/2
+    Shanklin Chine and Village,        3
+    Luccombe Chine,                1-1/2
+    East End,                      0-1/2
+    Bonchurch--Ventnor,                2
+    Steephill Castle,                  1
+    St. Lawrence,                      1
+    Niton,                         2-1/2
+      Sleep here, or at Blackgang.------
+                                  23-1/2
+
+
+    SECOND DAY
+
+    St. Catharine's Light-house,   0-1/2
+    Sandrock Spring,               0-1/2
+    Blackgang Chine,               0-1/2
+    Chale,                         0-1/2
+    Kingston,                      2-1/2
+    Shorwell and Northcourt,           2
+    Brixton,                           2
+    Mottistone,                        2
+    Brooke,                            1
+    Freshwater-gate,                   4
+    Needles Light-house,           3-1/2
+    Alum Bay,                          1
+      Sleep at Fr. gate or A. Bay.------
+                                      20
+
+
+    THIRD DAY
+
+    Yarmouth,                          6
+    Calbourne and Westover,            6
+    Swainston,                     1-1/2
+    Carisbrooke Village,               3
+    Newport,                           1
+    Parkhurst Prison,                  1
+    West Cowes,                        4
+    East Cowes (crossing ferry),   0-1/2
+    Whippingham Church,                2
+    Wootton-bridge,                    3
+    Quarr Abbey,                       1
+    Ryde,                          2-1/2
+                                  ------
+                                  31-1/2
+
+
+_Tour from Ryde, in which Parties sleep but one Night in the Country._
+
+FIRST DAY: St. Helen's 4 miles, Bembridge 1, Yaverland and Sandown 5,
+Shanklin 3, Luccombe and East End 2, Bonchurch and Ventnor 2, Wroxall
+2, Newchurch 4, Ryde 6--total 29 miles, or by Brading 26.
+
+SECOND DAY: Wootton 3-1/2, Arreton 4, Godshill and Appuldurcombe 5,
+Steephill 3, St. Lawrence 1, Niton 2-1/2, Arreton 7, Wootton 4, Ryde
+3-1/2--total 33-1/2 miles.
+
+THIRD DAY: Through Wootton to Newport 7, Carisbrooke 1, Shorwell 4,
+Brixton 2, Mottistone 2, Brooke 1, Freshwater-gate 4, Needles-point
+3-1/2, Alum Bay 1,--total 25-1/2 miles. Sleep at Fr. gate or Alum
+Bay.--FOURTH DAY: Yarmouth 6, Shalfleet 4, Barracks, &c. 5-1/2, West
+Cowes, 4, East Cowes 0-1/2, Whippingham 2, Wootton 3, Ryde 3-1/2--total
+28-1/2 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GENERAL TOUR FROM COWES.
+
+    FIRST DAY.
+
+    House of Industry, &c.           4
+    Newport,                         1
+    Carisbrooke Castle,              1
+    Swainston, on the right,         3
+    Calbourne and Westover,      1-1/2
+    Yarmouth,                        6
+    Alum Bay,                        6
+    The Needles Light-house,         1
+    Freshwater-gate,             3-1/2
+      Sleep here, or at Alum Bay.-----
+                                    28
+
+
+    SECOND DAY.
+
+    Brooke--Mottistone,              5
+    Brixton                          2
+    Shorwell and Northcourt,         2
+    Chale and Blackgang Chine,       5
+    Sandrock Spring,             0-1/2
+    St. Catharine's Light-house, 0-1/2
+    Niton Village,               0-1/2
+    St. Lawrence Church, &c.     2-1/2
+    Steephill Castle,                1
+    Ventnor, and Bonchurch,          2
+    East End,                        1
+    Luccombe Chine,              0-1/2
+    Shanklin Chine and Village,  1-1/2
+      Sleep here, or at Ventnor.------
+                                    24
+
+
+    THIRD DAY.
+
+    Sandown Fort and Village,        3
+    Yaverland Church, &c.        1-1/2
+    Bembridge.--Cross ferry,     3-1/2
+    St. Helen's Green,               1
+    The Priory, on the right,        1
+    St. Clare--St. John's,           2
+    Ryde                             1
+    Wootton-bridge--Fernhill,    3-1/2
+    Whippingham Church,              3
+    East Cowes,                      2
+                                ------
+                                21-1/2
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+TOURS FROM NEWPORT.
+
+    NORTH-EASTERN TOUR.
+
+    Fernhill--Wootton-bridge,    3-1/2
+    Quarr Abbey,                 1-1/2
+    Ryde,                            2
+    St. John's--St. Clare,           1
+    The Priory,                      2
+    St. Helen's Green,               1
+    Cross ferry to Bembridge,        1
+    Yaverland Church, &c.        3-1/2
+    Sandown Fort and Village,    1-1/2
+    Brading Down,                    3
+    Ashey Sea-mark,                  2
+    Down-end,                        2
+    Newport,                         3
+                                ------
+                                    27
+
+    SOUTHERN TOUR.
+
+    Arreton Church,                  4
+    Shanklin,                        6
+    Luccombe--East End,              2
+    Bonchurch and Ventnor,           2
+    Steephill Castle,                1
+    St. Lawrence,                    1
+    Niton,                       2-1/2
+    St. Catharine's Light-house, 0-1/2
+    Sandrock Spring,             0-1/2
+    Blackgang Chine              0-1/2
+    Chale,                           1
+    Gatcombe,                    4-1/2
+    Newport,                         4
+      (Or return by Rookley.)   ------
+                                    29
+
+    WESTERN TOUR.
+
+    Carisbrooke,                     1
+    Shorwell and Northcourt,         4
+    Brixton,                         2
+    Mottistone,                      2
+    Brooke,                          1
+    Freshwater-gate,                 4
+    Needles Light-house,         3-1/2
+    Alum Bay,                        1
+    Yarmouth,                        6
+    Calbourne and Westover,          6
+    Swainston,                   1-1/2
+    Carisbrooke Village,             3
+    Newport,                         1
+      (Or return by Shalfleet.) ------
+                                    36
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A VOYAGE ROUND THE ISLAND
+
+If the weather be favorable, will prove very interesting, and indeed be
+necessary to enable us to form a just estimate of the local attractions,
+since many of the scenes we have described are seen to most advantage
+from the water. Steamers perform the trip two or three times a-week
+during the season (usually in about eight hours): and sailing-craft from
+Ryde and Cowes are often engaged by parties for the same purpose.
+
+If we sail to the eastward on leaving Cowes Harbour, the first objects
+demanding our attention are Norris Castle and the royal Palace of
+Osborne, with their extensive lawns sweeping to the shore, shaded by
+numerous groups of noble trees. After passing the Creeks of King's Quay
+and Wootton, we have a partial sight of Binstead: and a most
+comprehensive view of the fashionable town of Ryde, just as we leave the
+Pier. Hence to St. Helen's the coast forms several beautiful bays, lined
+with gentlemen's seats and villas, hamlets, and luxuriant woods.
+
+Brading Haven, with the adjacent villages of Bembridge, St. Helen's, and
+Brading,--the whole encompassed by a semi-circular range of lofty
+hills--forms a very agreeable picture, especially at the time of high
+water. Our readers will have no difficulty in recognising the landmark
+of St. Helen's tower on the beach, and that on Ashey Down, about four
+miles inland.
+
+Two miles further are the lofty Culver Cliffs, forming the north side of
+Sandown Bay, on whose shores stand the village and fort of the same
+name. At the southern extremity of this extensive bay rise the dark
+precipices of Dunnose, penetrated by the Chines of Shanklin and
+Luccombe. Near the latter commences the celebrated tract called the
+Undercliff, whose varied and unique charms are nowhere so advantageously
+seen as from the water, "whence it rises like a series of gigantic steps
+that seem to lead from the lofty cliffs on the shore, to the summit of
+the grand perpendicular wall" that bounds it on the land-side.--East
+End, the lovely village of Bonchurch, the fast-increasing town of
+Ventnor, and the stately castle of Steephill, are all fully presented to
+our view: and less distinctly through the groves in which they are for
+the most part embosomed, the villas of St. Lawrence, Old Park, Mirables,
+&c. Beyond the pretty little cove of Puckaster we see part of Niton
+village; and close to the shore, the gigantic tower of the Light-house.
+A mile further is the Sandrock Spring, in the midst of a wild tract,
+that terminates in the gloomy ravine called Blackgang Chine, backed by
+the tower-crowned eminence of St. Catharine's Hill.
+
+Hence to Compton Bay the coast is dreary and comparatively monotonous;
+but we have a tolerable view of some of the smaller chines, and also of
+the fine range of downs that stretch from the centre of the island to
+its western extremity. Almost the whole extent of Freshwater Cliffs
+meets the eye at once: but there is no great difficulty in recognizing
+the most noted rocks, caves, &c. as we pass along. The various forms
+which are exhibited by those huge masses of chalk the Needles, as we
+approach and leave them, in connection with the beautiful precipices of
+Scratchell's Bay, form perhaps the most interesting circumstance of our
+voyage: the light-house seems placed on the very brink of the precipice:
+and the brilliant scenery of Alum Bay will appear to advantage,
+especially if it be a sunny afternoon.
+
+Beyond this the coast consists of steep broken slopes and earthy cliffs,
+some of them of considerable altitude, but presents no object of
+particular interest till we near the river Yar, with its adjacent town
+and villas: Newtown Creek opens about three miles further on. West
+Cowes, as we approach it from Thorness Bay, has a beautiful aspect,
+numerous genteel villas and first-rate lodging-houses covering the shore
+for nearly a mile: and the ever-amusing scene of Cowes harbour will form
+a delightful termination to our voyage.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Passage and Conveyance.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+JUNE 1, 1849.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BY STEAM-PACKETS.
+
+     >>_Strangers are particularly requested to attend to the following
+     recommendation._--We have always made it a point to delay the
+     publication of our Guides to as late a period as we well could
+     (often to a degree of inconvenience), in order that our readers may
+     be furnished with an accurate statement of the precise time of the
+     several passage-vessels starting to or from the island: but this,
+     instead of an advantage, often proved a disappointment: for perhaps
+     a change of hours unexpectedly took place within a week or
+     fortnight afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the
+     time of the railways, or from some motive on the part of one or
+     other of the steam-packet companies. We therefore particularly
+     advise strangers to make inquiry at the local inns, on board the
+     packets, or at the railway or booking offices, in all cases where
+     it is of important consequence to know exactly to a minute.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    _Between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde, & Portsmouth._
+
+    FROM MORN. AFT.
+
+    South'n to Cowes at. 3-1/2 8.40 10.40--1-3/4 4.40 7
+            Ryde and Portsmo. 8.40 10.40--1-3/4 4.40
+    Portsmouth to Cowes 8.40 10--2 4-1/2 6-1/2
+                  Southampton 8.40 10--2 4-1/2
+    Ryde to Cowes 9-1/4 10-1/2--2-1/2 5 7
+            Southampton 9-1/4 10-1/2--2-1/2 5
+    Cowes to Ryde 10 12--3-1/2 6-1/4
+             Portsmouth 6-3/4 10 12--3-1/2 6.15
+             South'n. 8-3/4 10.40 12--3-3/4 6-1/4 8-3/4
+    South'n to East Cowes 3-1/2 10.40--1-3/4 4.40
+    E. Cowes to South'ton. 8.35 11.50--3.35 6
+
+        On Sundays the passages are less frequent.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Portsmouth, Portsea, Gosport, and Ryde._
+
+From Gosport at 8.10, 9.45, 10.50, 11.50, 1-1/2, 2-1/2, 5-1/4, 6.35.
+From Portsea at 8.15, 9.50, 10.55 11.55, 1.35, 2.35, 5.25, 6.40. From
+Portsmouth each passage five minutes later.
+
+From Ryde at 7.20, 9, 11, 12, 1-1/4, 2-1/2, 4-1/4, & 6.
+
+ON SUNDAYS:
+
+    From Portsmouth at 8, 3, and 5.
+    From Ryde at 9, 4, and 6.
+
+>>_In the height of the season, steamers leave Southampton for Cowes on
+the arrival of every Railway train,--and Cowes for Southampton in time
+to meet every Train: and between Portsmouth and Ryde run about every
+hour from 7 to 7._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     From LYMINGTON--the _Glasgow_ runs to Yarmouth three or four times
+     a-day: the _Solent_ every morning to Cowes, whence she proceeds on
+     alternate days to Southampton and Portsmouth--and by suiting her
+     time to that of the other steamers, maintains a daily communication
+     between all these places.
+
+The steamers from Portsmouth, Southampton, and Lymington, tow
+horse-boats across.
+
+During summer, Steamers frequently make trips round the island, usually
+in about seven hours.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Regular Sailing Passage-boats._
+
+FROM COWES to NEWPORT, daily: the hours depending upon the state of the
+tide.
+
+From WOOTTON to PORTSMOUTH at 9 and 4 (3 or earlier in winter), daily:
+and from Portsmouth at 9 and 2-1/2.
+
+From BEMBRIDGE to Portsmouth and back, every other day, or oftener, in
+summer.
+
+To POOLE the sailing-hoys run twice a-week, calling off Cowes and
+Yarmouth.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Land-Conveyances.
+
+The STAGE-COACHES.--The following are the summer arrangements for
+1849:--
+
+From Newport to Ryde, at 8, 12-1/2, 2-3/4, and 5-1/4.
+From Ryde at 9-1/4, 11, 3-1/2, and 6-1/2.
+
+From Newport to West Cowes at 8, 9-1/2, 2-1/2, and 5-1/2.
+Cowes to Newport at 10, 12, 3-1/2, and 6-1/2.
+
+West Cowes to Ventnor (thro' Newport, Blackgang, and Niton,) at 10,
+returning at 3.
+Ventnor to East Cowes (through Godshill and Newport,) at 8-1/2,
+returning at 3.
+
+From Ryde to Ventnor at 9-1/2, 11, and 3.
+Ventnor to Ryde at 8-1/2, 1-3/4, and 3. Passing through Brading,
+Sandown, and Shanklin.
+
+     Most of the coaches omit travelling on Sundays.
+
+It will be seen that by these conveyances, visitors arriving at Cowes or
+Ryde in the morning may make the tour of one-half the island the same
+day. If from Ryde in the morning, they would be returned to Cowes in
+time for the last packet across, and the same from the latter to the
+former place.
+
+     But here we must caution our friends, as we did respecting the
+     steam-packets, that frequent alterations take place in the hours of
+     starting, perhaps in consequence of some change made by the
+     vessels, but as often induced by the caprice of the rival
+     speculators; some of them continuing throughout the year, and
+     others running only during the summer.
+
+The CARRIERS.--These of late have so increased, that there is scarcely a
+village without one or more to Newport or Ryde,--between the latter
+places there are three every day; between Cowes, Newport, and Ventnor,
+several carts and vans daily; and from the less populous parishes, one
+every other day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+List of the Principal Inns.
+
+NEWPORT,--the Bugle--Mew.
+          Star--Bryant.
+          Wheat-sheaf, Corn-market--J. Read.
+          Green Dragon, Pyle-street--R. Read.
+          Swan, High-street--Wardle.
+
+RYDE,--Pier Hotel--Rendall.
+       Hotel, Union-street--Yelf.
+       Kent, ditto--Pegg.
+       Crown, near the theatre--Woodrow.
+       Hotel, near the pier--Beazley.
+       Star, upper part of the town--Locke.
+       Hotel & Boarding-house--Weeks.
+
+SPRING-VALE Tavern--Heath.
+
+WEST COWES,--Fountain, on the quay--Webb.
+           Vine, adjoining; ditto--Roper.
+           Marine Hotel, Parade--Helmore.
+           Globe, ditto--Aris.
+
+EAST COWES,--Medina Hotel--Drew.
+             Prince of Wales, nr. toll-gate--Tucker
+
+YARMOUTH,--George--Bright.
+           Bugle--Butler.
+
+FRESHWATER,--Hotel. Fr. gate--Plumbly.
+             Albion Hotel, ditto--Groves.
+             Needles Hotel, Alum Bay--Groves.
+
+BLACKGANG CHINE Hotel--Brooks.
+
+NITON,--Royal Sandrock Hotel--Kent.
+        Boarding-house, on the shore--Bailey.
+        White Lion, Niton village--Bright.
+        Buddle Inn--
+
+VENTNOR,--Hotel--Riles.
+          Marine Hotel--Bush.
+          Crab and Lobster--Cass.
+          Commercial Inn--Cummins.
+
+BONCHURCH,--Hotel--Ribbands.
+
+SHANKLIN,--Williams's Hotel--Hale.
+           Hotel--Daish.
+
+SANDOWN,--King's-head--Thomas.
+
+BEMBRIDGE, Hotel, on the beach--Fletcher.
+
+BRADING,--Wheat-sheaf--Lale.
+
+CALBOURNE, Sun--Woodford.
+
+GODSHILL,--Griffin--Smith.
+
+BRIXTON,--New Inn--Sanders.
+
+
+LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL
+
+SEATS & COUNTRY-VILLAS
+
+WITH THE NAMES OF
+
+Their Proprietors or Occupiers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+>>_In those instances where no Occupiers' Names appear, such Residences
+are generally to be sold or let._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+OSBORNE, Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen
+
+APPULDURCOMBE,                     Earl Yarborough.
+Afton Manor-house,                 B. Cotton, esq.
+Appley, near Ryde,                 J. Hyde, esq.
+Beauchamp, Undercliff,             Sir W. Gordon, bt.
+Bellecroft, near Newport,          J. Cooke, esq.
+Bembridge Parsonage,               Rev. F.G. Middleton.
+Billingham, near Kingston          W. Stancombe, esq.
+Binstead Cottage,                  Lord Downes.
+--------Parsonage,                 Rev. Philip Hewitt.
+Blackwater Cottage, S. of Newport, J. Rutherford, esq.
+Brixton Parsonage,                 Rev. E. McAll.
+Brook Manor-house,                 James How, esq.
+Brookfield Cottage, Binstead,      Rev. Aug. Hewitt.
+Calbourne Parsonage,               Rev. R. Sumner.
+Calbourne Lodge,                   J. Fowler, esq.
+Castlehurst, nr. Carisbrooke,      H. Pinnock, esq.
+Chale Parsonage,                   Rev. A. Gother.
+Costorphine-hill, Ryde,            J.P. Lind, esq.
+EAST COWES CASTLE,                 ----
+East Dene, Bonchurch,              Capt. Swinburne.
+Egypt House, nr. W. Cowes,         Sir T. Tancred, bt.
+Elm Cottage, near E. Cowes,        ----
+FAIRLEE, N.E. of Newport,          Rd. Oglander, esq.
+Fairlee Cottage, ditto,            ----
+Fairy-hill, Nettlestone,           W.A. Glynn, esq.
+Farringford-hill, Freshwater,      Rev. G. Seymour.
+FERNHILL, Wootton,                 Samuel Sanders, esq.
+GATCOMBE PARK,                     Captain Berners.
+Gatcombe Rectory,                  Rev. W. Thompson, D.D.
+Hampstead, near Shalfleet,         Mrs. Nash.
+Haylands, south of Ryde,           Captain Locke.
+Hill-grove, Bembridge,             Hon. A.H. Moreton.
+Holmwood, Ryde,                    T.B. Maynard, esq.
+Kite-hill, Wootton,                Sir H. Brook, bt.
+Lowcliff Lodge, Blackgang,         ----
+Mill-hill, West Cowes,             ----
+Medina Hermitage, nr. Niton,       W.H. Dawes, esq.
+Mirables, Undercliff, ditto,       Mrs. Arnold.
+Mount Cleeves House, ditto,        the Misses Simes.
+Moor House, near W. Cowes,         ----
+Mottistone House,                  R. Jessett, esq.
+New Close, s.w. of Newport,        T. Cooke, esq.
+Ningwood House,                    Rev. ---- Cottell.
+Niton Parsonage,                   Rev. R. Dixon.
+NORRIS, near E. Cowes,             R. Bell, esq.
+NORTHCOURT, Shorwell,              H.P. Gordon, esq.
+Shide Cottage, S. of Newport,      Col. Napier.
+NORTHWOOD PARK,                    G.H. Ward, esq.
+Norton Lodge, Freshwater,          Sir G. Hamond, bt.
+NUNWELL, near Brading,             Sir W. Oglander, bt.
+Oakhill, near Ryde,                T.M. Leacock, esq.
+Old Park, Undercliff,              J. Walkinshaw, esq.
+Orchard, ditto, near Niton,        Sir W. Gordon, bt.
+Padmore, Whippingham,              Rev. James Jolliffe.
+Pidford, near Rookley,             ----------
+Pitt-place, Mottistone,            ----------
+PRIORY, N. of St. Helen's,         H. Smith, esq.
+Puckaster Cottage, Undercliff,     Mrs. Vine.
+Puckpool, east of Ryde,            Lewis Wyatt, esq.
+Ryde House,                        Miss Player.
+Rookley Cottage,                   John Woodward, esq.
+Rosiere, Niton,                    ---------
+Sealand Cottage, Blackgang,        R. Pinnock, esq.
+St. Clare, east of Ryde,           Col. Vernon Harcourt.
+ST. JOHN'S, ditto,                 A.F. Hamilton, esq.
+St. Lawrence Villa,                Earl Yarborough.
+------- --- Cottage,               Hon. Capt. D. Pelham.
+St. Thomas' Villa, E. Cowes,       Miss Barrington.
+Sea-grove, Nettlestone,            W. Gardiner esq.
+Sea-field, ditto,                  Henry Beach, esq.
+Spring-field, ditto,               John Callender, esq.
+Steane Villa, Bembridge,           ---------
+Shanklin Parsonage,                Archdeacon Hill.
+Shorwell Parsonage,                Rev. E. Robertson.
+Slatwoods, near East Cowes,        Miss Shedden.
+Southlands House, Blackgang,       ------
+Spring-hill, ditto,                George Shedden, esq.
+Standen, south of Newport,         General Evelegh.
+STEEPHILL CASTLE,                  J. Hambrough, esq.
+Stickworth, south of Arreton,      Mrs. Bell.
+Stonepits' Cottage, Binstead,      Capt. Brigstocke.
+SWAINSTON, nr. Calbourne,          Sir Rd. Simeon, bt.
+The Battery, Sandown,              T. Woodham, esq.
+The Farm, nr. Newport,             B. Mew, esq.
+The Marina, Norton,                Capt. Crozier.
+Tower Cottage, Shanklin,           -- Cameron, esq.
+Uplands, east of Ryde,             C. Payne, esq.
+Upton House, south of Ryde,        Admiral Hoare.
+Wacklands, s. of Newchurch,        William Thatcher, esq.
+WESTOVER, Calbourne,               Hon. A'Court Holmes.
+Westhill, Cowes,                   the Misses Ward.
+---- Norton,                       R.B. Crozier, esq.
+Westcliff, Niton,                  Captain Ker.
+Westridge, east of Ryde,           Mrs. Young.
+Westbrook, ditto,                  J. Le Marchant, esq.
+Whitcomb, near Gatcombe,           Mrs. Hughes.
+Woodlands, east of Ryde,           J. Percival, esq.
+Woodvale, near Gurnard,            Captain Ffarington.
+Wootton Parsonage.                 Rev. R.W. White.
+Yafford, near Shorwell,            James Jolliffe, esq.
+Yaverland Parsonage,               Rev. R. Sherson.
+
+[Illustration: Map of the Isle of Wight]
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF
+WIGHT***
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+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight, by George Brannon</title>
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight, by
+George Brannon</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight</p>
+<p>       The Expeditious Traveller's Index to Its Prominent Beauties &amp; Objects of Interest. Compiled Especially with Reference to Those Numerous Visitors Who Can Spare but Two or Three Days to Make the Tour of the Island.</p>
+<p>Author: George Brannon</p>
+<p>Release Date: July 24, 2005  [eBook #16356]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4>E-text prepared by richyfourtytwo, Martin Pettit,<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (https://www.pgdp.net/)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_2lg.jpg" id="illu_2lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_2sm.jpg" style="width: 345px; height: 600px; border: 0" alt="Title page - Brannon's Picture of the Isle of Wight. or the The Expeditious Traveller's Index To its Prominent Beauties &amp;
+Objects of Interest. Compiled especially with Reference to those numerous Visitors
+who can spare but two or three Days to make the Tour of the Island. Printed and Published
+by George Brannon, Wootton, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight</a></p>
+<p class="center">or the The Expeditious Traveller's Index<br /> To its Prominent Beauties &amp;
+Objects of Interest.<br /> Compiled especially with Reference to those numerous<br /> Visitors
+who can spare but two or three Days<br /> to make the <br />Tour of the Island.<br /> Printed and Published
+by George Brannon, Wootton,<br /> ISLE OF WIGHT.</p>
+<hr />
+
+<h2>EXPLANATION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>If nearly <span class="smcap">Forty Years' Residence</span> in the Isle of Wight may be
+allowed in some degree to qualify an <span class="smcap">Artist</span> for the office of
+Guide, the Author has a fair claim to public patronage,&mdash;for few could
+have had better opportunity of acquiring local information.</p>
+
+<p>He has endeavoured to render <span class="smcap">The Picture</span> an intelligent
+<i>Cicerone</i>, without being too garrulous or grandiloquous,&mdash;but always
+attentive to the stranger, leading him to every remarkable object, and
+giving just as much description of each, as would be acceptable to
+persons enjoying the full use of their eyes. It affords him, <i>at first
+glance</i>, an <span class="smcap">Index</span> of what ought to be seen, and <i>how best seen
+in the shortest time</i>, in every place to which he may be successively
+conducted. This novelty in the work will prove very frequently of great
+utility, especially to those visitors who have too little time for their
+trip, and who, for want of such a laconic memento wherever they go, are
+known in a thousand instances to pass by the most interesting objects
+unnoticed,&mdash;not being aware even of their proximity.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>This being the production of the same hand as several other local
+works, it is due to the stranger to explain in what respects they
+differ:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>I.&mdash;THE VECTIS SCENERY is a handsome volume in Royal Quarto,
+substantially bound, containing 36 highly finished line-engravings of
+all the most celebrated landscapes, accompanied with ample letter-press
+descriptions, price &pound;1.5.0.</p>
+
+<p>II.&mdash;THE PICTURE differs from the above in being intended for a
+<i>hand-book</i>, it is in fact a Cicerone, and therefore occasionally dwells
+with a degree of minuteness which could be interesting only to a person
+actually on the spot; but the "Vectis Scenery" takes the higher rank of
+an Exhibitor of picturesque scenes which ask little aid from verbal
+explanation, and is entitled to a place on the drawing-room table with
+other works of Art. The Engravings in the two publications are quite
+different.</p>
+
+<p>III.&mdash;The PLEASURE-VISITOR'S COMPANION is a compendium of useful
+information, with the different Tours, &amp;c. and Views of the Country
+Inns, price 2s., or with Map, 3s.</p>
+
+<p>IV.&mdash;The <span class="smcap">Rev.</span> LEGH RICHMOND'S DESCRIPTION of the Island, with
+explanatory Notes and illustrative Engravings, price 2s.6d.</p>
+
+<p>V.&mdash;A MAP of the Island and the Opposite Coast&mdash;with the Tours, &amp;c., in
+cover, price 1s.6d.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p>It were useless to complain of the piracies committed upon the
+Author's labors, both literary and pictorial, by parties in London
+as well as in the country; but he may be allowed however to remark,
+that some of the most common facts and delineations are strangely
+perverted from the Truth in their new dress,&mdash;however artfully
+disguised to prevent the consequences of palpable detection.</p>
+
+<p>In cases even where a professional Author may be engaged by a
+publisher on a local work, the time allowed is generally too
+limited for acquiring accurate knowledge of his subjects: he must
+depend either on prior publications or on his personal intercourse
+with the residents, for much of his information. In compiling from
+the first of these sources, he is very liable to mis-statement, by
+investing everything in a new dress to conceal his piracies; and
+the latter source leaves him open to imposition&mdash;for much of his
+matter will be sheer gossip, partial statements, or unfounded
+tradition, which a long experience only could detect, and place in
+a proper light.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_1lg.jpg" id="illu_1lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_1sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 391px; border: 0" alt="NORRIS CASTLE" /><br />NORRIS CASTLE</a></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<div class="index">
+<ul>
+<li><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a>&mdash;GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+<ul>
+	<li class="subitem">Its Peculiar Advantages for a Summer's Excursion</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Climate, Situation, and Extent</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Eminent Natives, and Outline of the Local History</li>
+</ul></li>
+
+	<li><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a>&mdash;THE THREE PRINCIPAL TOWNS, AND THEIR ENVIRONS.
+<ul>
+	<li class="subitem">Carisbrooke Castle and Village</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Newport and its Environs</li>
+	<li class="subitem">East and West Cowes, and their Environs</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Objects on the road between Cowes and Ryde</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Ryde and its Environs</li>
+	<li class="subitem">St. Helen's, Bembridge, Sandown, Brading, &amp;c.</li>
+</ul></li>
+
+	<li><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a>&mdash;THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
+<ul>
+	<li class="subitem">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>Distinguished for its Romantic Scenery.</i></li>
+	<li class="subitem">Shanklin Chine and Village</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Cooke's Castle, and Luccombe Chine</li>
+	<li class="subitem">East End, commencement of the Undercliff</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Bonchurch, and Ventnor</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Appuldurcombe and Godshill</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Steephill, and St. Lawrence</li>
+	<li class="subitem">The Undercliff, between St. Lawrence and Niton</li>
+	<li class="subitem">The New Light-house, and the Sandrock Spring</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Blackgang Chine, and St. Catharine's Hill</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Wrecks on the Southern Coast</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Chale, Gatcombe, Shorwell, Brixton, &amp;c.</li>
+</ul></li>
+
+	<li><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a>&mdash;THE SOUTH-WESTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
+<ul>
+	<li class="subitem">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>Distinguished for the most Sublime Scenery.</i></li>
+	<li class="subitem">The Road over the Downs to Freshwater</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Freshwater Cliffs, Bay, and Caverns</li>
+	<li class="subitem">High-down, Main-bench, and Scratchell's Bay</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Needle Rocks, Alum Bay, Light-house, &amp;c.</li>
+	<li class="subitem">Freshwater Village, Yarmouth, Calbourne, &amp;c.</li>
+</ul></li>
+<li>
+<ul>
+	<li><a href="#CONSPICUOUS">Conspicuous Objects on the Hills</a></li>
+</ul>
+<ul>
+	<li><a href="#TOURS">Tours through, and Voyage round the Island</a></li>
+</ul>
+<ul>
+	<li><a href="#INNS">Lists of the Inns and Seats. Passage and Conveyance, &amp;c.</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+<h2>LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS.</h2>
+
+<div class="picindex">
+<ul>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_1lg.jpg">I.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Norris Castle</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_2lg.jpg">II.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Pulpit Rock</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_3lg.jpg">III.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Carisbrooke Castle</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_4lg.jpg">IV.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">West Cowes</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_5lg.jpg">V.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Osbourne</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_6lg.jpg">VI.</a></span>&mdash;Town and Pier of <span class="smcap">Ryde</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_7lg.jpg">VII.</a></span>&mdash;View from Bembridge Down</li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;<a href="#illu_8lg.jpg">VIII.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Shanklin</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_9lg.jpg">IX.</a></span>&mdash;Shanklin Church</li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_10lg.jpg">X.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Cooke's Castle</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_11lg.jpg">XI.</a></span>&mdash;The ancient Parish-church of <span class="smcap">Bonchurch</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_12lg.jpg">XII.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ventnor</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;<a href="#illu_13lg.jpg">XIII.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Steephill</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_14lg.jpg">XIV.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">St. Lawrence Church</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_15lg.jpg">XV.</a></span>&mdash;St. Lawrence Well</li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_16lg.jpg">XVI.</a></span>&mdash;The <span class="smcap">Undercliff</span> near Mount Cleeves.</li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;<a href="#illu_17lg.jpg">XVII.</a></span>&mdash;The new <span class="smcap">Light-house</span> near Niton</li>
+	<li><span class="mono"><a href="#illu_18lg.jpg">XVIII.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Blackgang Chine</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_19lg.jpg">XIX.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Freshwater Bay</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_20lg.jpg">XX.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Watcombe Bay</span></li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#illu_21lg.jpg">XXI.</a></span>&mdash;<span class="smcap">Scratchell's</span> Bay and the Needle Rocks</li>
+	<li><span class="mono">&nbsp;<a href="#map_lg.jpg">XXII.</a></span>&mdash;Map of the Isle of Wight</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE PECULIAR ADVANTAGES OF THE ISLAND AS THE OBJECT OF</h3>
+<h2>A SUMMER'S EXCURSION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Variety is the characteristic charm of the Isle of Wight; the scenery
+being in fact a most happy combination of the grand and romantic, the
+sylvan and marine&mdash;throughout a close interchange of hills and dales,
+intersected by streams and rivers: combining the quiet of rural life
+with the fashionable gaiety of a watering-place, or the bustle of a
+crowded sea-port. But generally, its landscapes are more distinguished
+for beauty than sublimity, and hence the very appropriate designation of
+<span class="smcap">"the Garden of England!"</span> an emphatic compliment cheerfully paid
+by the thousands annually visiting its shores for pleasure or for
+health: and perhaps there is scarcely another spot in the kingdom, of
+the same narrow limits, which can concentrate more of those qualities
+that at once charm the eye and animate the soul. Nor should it be
+overlooked how large a source of interest is derived from the proximity
+of those two celebrated towns, Southampton and Portsmouth: and the
+beautiful termination given to most of the open prospects by the
+retiring distances on the opposite coast.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i6">&mdash;&mdash;"Intermixture sweet,</div>
+<div>Of lawns and groves, of open and retired,</div>
+<div>Vales, farms, towns, villas, castles, distant spires.</div>
+<div>And hills on hills with ambient clouds enrolled,</div>
+<div>In long succession court the lab'ring sight."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But the crowning beauty of the Island is certainly <span class="smcap">the Sea!</span>
+viewed in all the splendor of its various aspects;&mdash;whether under the
+awful grandeur of the agitated and boundless <i>Ocean</i>,&mdash;as a rapid and
+magnificent <i>River</i>,&mdash;or reposing in all the glassy tranquillity of a
+spacious land-locked <i>Bay</i>:&mdash;now of a glowing crimson, and now of the
+purest depth of azure: its bosom ever spangled with a thousand moving
+and attractive objects of marine life.</p>
+
+<p>To those who have never had the opportunity of viewing the sea except
+under the comparatively dreary aspect which it presents from many
+unsheltering parts of the southern coast, as for instance Brighton,
+where almost the only relief to the monotony of the wide expanse is a
+few clumsy fishing boats or dusky colliers, and occasionally the rolling
+clouds of smoke from a passing steamer,&mdash;it may seem that we are rather
+disposed to exaggerate the picture; but not so, as would certainly be
+attested by every one who had visited the island: for here the scene is
+ever enriched by magnificent <span class="smcap">ships of war</span>, innumerable
+merchant-vessels, and splendid pleasure-yachts, safely lying at anchor
+or gaily sailing about in every direction; and what moving object in the
+world can surpass, in grandeur, beauty, and interest, a fine ship under
+full canvass with a light breeze? Let the reader only imagine how
+glorious a sight it must have been, when 200
+sail,&mdash;line-of-battle-ships, frigates, and large merchantmen under
+convoy, would weigh anchor at the same time, and proceeding on their
+voyage, <i>pass round the island</i> as it were in review!&mdash;thus affording a
+spectacle, as they floated</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>never to be erased from the memory of those who had once the
+incomparable pleasure to witness it. True it is, that in these happier
+times of peace, such exhibitions are not to be expected: but frequently
+even now, very large fleets of merchantmen, and perhaps several
+men-of-war, which have put in through distress of weather, or been
+detained by contrary winds, will all at the same moment weigh anchor at
+the first favorable change. [Footnote: The glories of the olden time
+have of late years been frequently revived at the departure of
+Experimental and other squadrons rendezvousing at Spithead,&mdash;accompanied
+as they sometimes are by hundreds of sailing-craft and steamers,
+including the beautiful yachts of all the neighbouring clubs.]</p>
+
+<p>We think it ridiculous to attribute qualities to the island (as is
+often done,) which it really does not possess: all we contend for is,
+that few spots can excel the Wight <i>altogether in the amount of its</i>
+<span class="smcap">various</span> <i>attractions</i>; we mean especially to those parties who
+can only snatch occasionally a very brief period for a summer excursion;
+not only as regards its <i>peculiar and acknowledged local advantages</i>,
+but equally so from those adventitious and auxiliary circumstances that
+are derived from the present <i>rail-road</i> conveyance from the metropolis:
+and from the <i>shortness</i> and <i>perfect safety</i> of the passage
+across&mdash;being little more than an hour from Southampton, and only half
+that time from Portsmouth; the former an important mercantile port and
+fashionable watering-place; and the latter, the first naval station in
+the kingdom&mdash;its marine treasures too thrown open gratuitously to public
+inspection: and what curiosity can afford a Briton more gratification,
+than to visit such a dock-yard, and pace the deck of the very ship in
+which <i>Victory</i> crowned the last moments of the immortal Nelson?</p>
+
+<p>Though the island has to boast of many passages of highly romantic and
+<i>brilliant</i> scenery, yet the predominant character of its landscapes is,
+as was hinted above, calculated to amuse, to delight, and promote
+<i>cheerfulness</i>, rather than to astonish or impress the spectator with
+feelings of awe by their stupendous grandeur; circumstances which,
+combined with its salubrity of climate, render it a most desirable
+retreat to the valetudinarian and nervous invalid: indeed all the
+alterations which have latterly been made, or are now in progress, tend
+to soften, embellish, and in point of convenience to improve the face of
+the country. On this subject however it will be a question with many
+persons of good taste, whether any of these artificial operations are
+really improvements upon the native character of the island. An artist
+would most probably decide in the negative: but we know there are many
+nevertheless, who consider that whatever deterioration the island may
+experience in some of her more wild and romantic features, is amply
+compensated by the spread of cultivation and rural decoration, by the
+increased facilities of travelling, and the multiplied means of
+enjoyment now afforded to the pleasure-tourist.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>A few particulars will suffice for the present, to prove the above
+assertions, and may perhaps be found</p>
+
+<h3>USEFUL HINTS TO STRANGERS</h3>
+
+<p>Purposing a visit to the shores of the Garden of England. They may
+arrange to breakfast comfortably at the usual hour in London&mdash;start by
+the rail-road, and reach either of the above ports at noon, or even
+earlier&mdash;steam-packets are in readiness to convey the passengers across,
+and stage-coaches and other vehicles await their arrival at Cowes and
+Ryde: our friends may then <i>ride round one-half</i> of the island, and
+return the next, or even <i>the same night!</i> but this of course is
+abridging the affair a little too much. But allow a full week, and that
+will suffice to render it a very pleasant trip. If, for example, you
+come to Southampton, sleep there, or at least tarry a few hours in the
+examination of it: then take the last steamer to Cowes or Ryde, and
+sleep there the first night: next morning commence the regular Tour of
+three days, dining and sleeping twice or thrice at one or other of the
+inns situated on the rocky side of the island, to enjoy at the same time
+the more unusual feast of a wide prospect of the sea, and the music of
+the foaming breakers thundering on the beach below. Supposing you start
+from Cowes, as being opposite Southampton, the Route will bring you
+round to Ryde; where you cross to Portsmouth, and having gone over the
+fortifications, the dock-yard, and Nelson's ship, return by one or other
+of the rail-roads. But if you arrive by Portsmouth and Ryde, then return
+<i>via</i> Cowes and 'Hampton.&mdash;For the details of the several routes, the
+reader is of course referred to the chapter "Tours," at the end of the
+Work.</p>
+
+<p>That part of the island immediately opposite Hampshire is generally
+well-wooded, with an easy descent to the shore&mdash;populous and busy, as
+might be expected from the two considerable watering-places before
+named, and several excellent harbors. But the south side (familiarly
+called <i>the Back of the Island</i>,) being washed by the impetuous tides of
+the ocean, presents a very different aspect, showing the resistless
+progress of the waves:&mdash;and hence perpendicular cliffs of great
+altitude, precipitous slopes constantly detaching large masses of earth
+and rocks, and all the picturesque confusion produced by successive
+landslips: here therefore the scenery is variously characterized by
+dreary devastation, romantic beauty, or sublime splendor of effect. But
+not so of <i>the Interior</i> of the island, which presents the softer
+pictures of pastoral and rural life: for ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Creation's mildest charms are here combined,"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>enlivened by several splendid mansions, with their parks and groves. The
+churches are numerous: some "embosomed soft in trees," and others
+picturesquely seated on commanding knolls: and many of the highest hills
+are adorned by a light-house or signal-station&mdash;some lofty obelisk,
+tower, or mill; so that in every direction a conspicuous object gives an
+interest and discriminative identity to those broad features of scenery,
+which would otherwise be perfectly tame and monotonous.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>Situation, Extent, Climate, &amp;c.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The Isle of Wight extends from east to west 23 miles, by about 14 from
+north to south (being very nearly the figure of a lozenge),
+circumscribes at least 60 miles, and contains upwards of 100,000 acres.
+It is separated from the Hampshire coast by a strait called the
+<span class="smcap">Solent Sea</span>, varying from three to seven miles in width: and
+bounded by the British Channel on the south&mdash;the nearest part of the
+French coast being Cherbourg (18 leagues distant), which is said to have
+been seen from the hills of Freshwater, &amp;c. The extent of the English
+coast visible in clear weather is above 100 miles, from Beachy Head in
+Sussex, to the Isle of Portland in Dorset.</p>
+
+<p>THE CLIMATE.&mdash;The purity of the air was always acknowledged by those who
+ever visited the island owing to the dry and highly cultivated face of
+the country: but it was left to an eminent Physician, Dr. James Clarke,
+to give due celebrity to the unrivaled salubrity of the climate:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"The Island, from the variety which it presents in point of elevation,
+soil, and aspect, and from the configuration of its hills and shores,
+possesses several peculiarities of climate and situation, which render
+it a very favorable and commodious residence throughout the year, for a
+large class of invalids. On this account, the Isle of Wight claims our
+particular attention, as it comprehends within itself advantages which
+are of great value to the delicate invalid, and to obtain which, in
+almost any other part of England, he would require to make a
+considerable journey." And he further remarks, that "the Undercliff bids
+fair to exceed all other winter residences in this country, and the
+island will have added to its title of the Garden of England, that of
+the <span class="smcap">British Madeira</span>."</p>
+
+<p>The classical designation of the island is <span class="smcap">Vecta</span> or
+<span class="smcap">Vectis</span>: but its modern name is derived from Wect, With, or
+Wict, as it is found variously written in Doomsday Book.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Some writers have supposed the island to have been once connected
+with the mainland by an isthmus stretching from Gurnet, near Cowes,
+to Leap, on the Hampshire roast; but nothing decisive has yet been
+advanced in support of this strange hypothesis.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The surface of the island presents a constant succession of valley and
+eminence&mdash;the two principal chains of hills being ... a range of chalk
+downs of a smooth rounded shape, and from 500 to 700 feet high, that
+stretch lengthways through the middle of the island, abutting the ocean
+at Freshwater on the west, and Bembridge on the east:-and a still
+loftier range, variously composed of chalk, firestone, &amp;c., that skirts
+the south-eastern coast from Shanklin Down to St. Catharine's (the
+latter 830 feet in height,) and whose broken flank on the sea-side forms
+the celebrated and romantic region of the <span class="smcap">Undercliff</span>.</p>
+
+<p>The principal streams in the Isle of Wight navigable for marine craft
+are the Rivers Medina and Yar, and the Creeks of Newtown and
+Wootton.&mdash;The Medina, whose source is in the south, and which joins the
+sea at Cowes, divides the island into two hundreds of nearly equal
+extent, respectively called the East and West Medene; the first
+comprising 14, the latter 16 parishes.</p>
+
+<p>The population of the island has doubled since 1802, and now exceeds
+45,000. No manufacture of any consequence is carried on (with the
+exception of the lace-factory near Newport,) Corn being the staple
+article of trade,&mdash;for which there are about 42 mills, nearly all of
+them worked by water.</p>
+
+<p>Almost encompassed by formidable rocks and shelves, few parts of the
+English coast are more dangerous to ships driving in a storm. The most
+dreaded parts are the Needles and Shingles, at the western point;
+Rocken-end Race at the south, and Bembridge Ledge at the eastern
+extremity: few winters pass without the melancholy catastrophe of
+shipwreck; though the danger is now of course diminished by the
+establishment of Light-houses&mdash;especially of the new one near
+Niton.&mdash;Owing to this cause, and to the precipitous nature of the coast
+itself, the island presents few points favorable to an enemy's landing,
+and even those were for the most part fortified by order of Henry VIII:
+The forts of Sandown, Cowes, and Yarmouth still remain; and though they
+might be of little use in the present state of military science, the
+presence of "England's wooden walls" at the stations of Spithead and St.
+Helen's, renders all local defences needless.</p>
+
+<h3><i>Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology</i>.</h3>
+
+<p>The island presents many rare geological phenomena: and from its
+smallness, easy access, and the various nature of its coasts, offers an
+admirable field for scientific investigation.</p>
+
+<p>One peculiarity deserves to be particularly noticed; namely, the
+extraordinary state in which the <span class="smcap">Flints</span> are found in the great
+range of chalk hills,&mdash;for all those in regular beds, are broken into
+pieces in every direction, from two or three inches long, to an almost
+impalpable powder; and yet show no other indication of their fracture
+than very fine lines, until the investing chalk be removed, when they
+fall at once to pieces! But the separate flints or nodules in the body
+of the chalk strata are not so: which led the late Sir H. Englefield to
+conjecture, that the phenomenon was caused in the moment of the immense
+concussion which subverted the whole mass of strata, and placed them in
+their present nearly vertical position.</p>
+
+<p>Another interesting circumstance in the geological structure of the Isle
+of Wight, is a series of strata, <i>vertical</i> or highly inclined, which
+run across the middle of it from east to west; while the strata on each
+side are <i>horizontal</i>; they consist of ... a very thick stratum of clay
+and sand (observable at Alum Bay), flinty chalk, chalk without flints,
+chalk-marle, green sandstone with lime-stone and chert, dark-grey marle,
+and ferruginous sand.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">A Progressive Change</span> is evidently taking place in the boundary
+line of the coast&mdash;the sea making considerable invasions on the south
+side, which is exposed to the resistless currents of the ocean; while on
+the north it is found to be more gradually receding, from the
+accumulation of sand and shingle drifted and deposited by the less
+impetuous tides of the Solent Channel.&mdash;About Brixton, for instance,
+between Blackgang Chine and the Freshwater Cliffs, the loss of land has
+been estimated (from the successive removals of paths and hedges,) to
+exceed 200 feet in breadth in less than a century; while in the
+neighbourhood of Ryde it is known that the bed of a valley formerly
+accessible to the sea is now rather above its highest level; and even in
+1760, when Fielding visited the island, the coast there is described by
+him as a wide disgusting waste of mud, which is now covered with an
+increasing layer of sand, sufficiently firm to bear wheel-carriages;
+and no doubt but in process of time there will be a great accession to
+the beach, from the constant though slow operation of the same
+causes&mdash;denuding on the one side, and reciprocally accumulating on the
+other.</p>
+
+<p>Good Stone of various qualities is found in most parts of the island:
+and with that procured from the quarries of Binstead, the body of
+Winchester Cathedral was built. All the houses along the Undercliff are
+constructed with a beautiful kind of freestone procured on the spot.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Extensive pits are worked in the downs for the chalk, which is used
+for manure, burning into lime, &amp;c. A stratum of coals was formerly
+believed to run through the central downs, and Sir Rt. Worsley
+actually sunk a shaft for it near Bembridge; his labors however
+were but poorly rewarded. Veins of coarse iron ore have also
+appeared in some parts of the island.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The finest white sand in the kingdom is obtained from the sea-cliffs at
+Freshwater, and is carried in great quantities to the glass and
+porcelain manufactories. Excellent brick-earth abounds in almost every
+part of the island: common native alum, copperas, specimens of
+petrifactions, and many curious varieties of sea-weeds, are picked up on
+the shores; in the cliffs and quarries are found numerous beautiful
+fossil remains,&mdash;especially oysters and other bivalve shells, of a vast
+size.</p>
+
+<p>The central range of chalk hills divides the island into two nearly
+distinct regions, the soil and strata being essentially different,&mdash;a
+stiff clay predominating on the north side, which is extensively covered
+with wood, while the south side is principally of a light sandy soil or
+mellow loam, and being exceedingly fertile, the whole tract is almost
+exclusively employed in tillage.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>In geological terms, the north is formed of the <i>Eocene</i> or
+freshwater deposits: and the south of the <i>Cretaceous</i> or oceanic,
+except where the <i>Wealden</i> exhibits itself at Sandown and Brixton
+bays.&mdash;Though affording a great variety of soil, the island is upon
+the whole well calculated for farming as may be inferred from its
+proverbial fertility; "it was many years ago computed to produce as
+much corn in one year as its inhabitants would consume in
+seven,&mdash;and the improved cultivation, with the additional land
+brought into tillage, has doubtless kept pace with the increased
+population."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>In <span class="smcap">Agriculture</span> there is now a close approximation to the
+routine practised in the rest of the county: and there is scarcely any
+peculiarity observable either in the system of Husbandry, or in the
+manners of the Yeomanry, who are a very intelligent and respectable
+class.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>The constant intercourse which the inhabitants have with persons
+from other parts of the kingdom, has in fact erased all insular
+peculiarities. But the following extract from the Memoirs of Sir
+John Oglander, which were written about the year 1700, will be read
+with interest, as exhibiting a most</p>
+
+<p class='center'><i>Amusing Picture of the Islanders in the 16th century</i>.</p>
+
+<p>"I have heard," says he, "and partly knowe it to be true, that not
+only heretofore there was no lawyer nor attorney in owre island,
+but in Sir George Carey's time [1588] an attorney coming in to
+settle in the island, was by his command, with a pound of candles
+hanging att his breech lighted, with bells about his legs, hunted
+owte of the island; insomuch that owre ancestors lived here so
+quietly and securely, being neither troubled to London nor
+Winchester, so they seldom or never went owte of the island;
+insomuch as when they went to London (thinking it an East India
+voyage), they always made their wills, supposing no trouble like to
+travaile."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The extensive downs of the island afford excellent pasture for sheep,
+whose wool is of a staple not inferior to that produced on the South
+Downs: and many thousand lambs are annually sent to the London markets.
+From the improvements effected in Husbandry, there are now nearly
+sufficient oxen reared and fatted for the use of the inhabitants,
+instead of the butchers going as formerly, to Salisbury, &amp;c. for their
+cattle.</p>
+
+<p>The demands of the dock-yards (both here and at Portsmouth,) have
+greatly thinned the timber of the island, which is principally oak and
+elm, and is found to grow most luxuriantly in the wooded tract from East
+Cowes to St. Helen's.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>In the time of King Charles II, woods were so extensive, that it is
+recorded, a squirrel might have run on the tops of the trees from
+Gurnard to Carisbrooke, and in several other parts for leagues
+together.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>In ZOOLOGY there is nothing very remarkable, except the absence of
+pole-cats, badgers, and till lately, even foxes: but the
+poultry-breeders are now indebted for the introduction of the latter to
+some sparkish amateurs of hunting: many have been killed, but they are
+still breeding rapidly in the favorable fastnesses of the more rocky and
+woody districts. Otters too are frequently seen.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Game</span> is
+abundant, particular attention having been paid to its preservation.
+"The great plenty of hares and other game is owing to the care of Sir
+Edward Horsey, governor in 1582, who is reported to have given a lamb
+for every living hare brought to him from the neighbouring counties."</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Nightingale</span>.&mdash;These much-prized birds of passage make the
+island their early and most favorite resort; and to those visitors from
+the north who perhaps never heard their unrivaled notes, the opportunity
+would prove not the least gratifying circumstance in a day's pleasure.
+On fine evenings in the months of May and June, the woods and groves in
+every direction resound with the delightful chorus of their inimitable
+songs.</p>
+
+<p>Astonishing numbers of sea-fowl resort during the summer months to the
+cliff's of Freshwater and Bembridge: in the latter, the eagle has been
+known to build its eyry, and in the time of queen Elizabeth they were
+famous for a breed of hawks, which were so valued, that it was made a
+capital crime to steal them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fish</span> of every kind common to the southern coast of England is
+caught off the island, but not in that abundance which might be
+expected, except crabs and lobsters, which are uncommonly large and
+fine. Mackarel are some seasons extremely plentiful, small, but
+peculiarly sweet. Numbers of porpoises are seen rolling along in the
+Solent Sea and Southampton Water; sharks are frequently observed off the
+back of the island, and sometimes even the grampus pursuing its prey. In
+1814, a large whale was taken off the Shingles (west of the Needle
+Rocks,) having been left aground by the ebbing tide: and in the winter
+of 1841, another, measuring 75 feet in length, was caught near the same
+spot.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>Local Biography and History.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The following are amongst the most eminent natives of the island:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Sir JOHN CHEEKE, Knt., one of the most distinguished scholars and
+virtuous men of his time: he was tutor to Edward VI, and a zealous
+protestant, but being induced during the following reign to make a
+public recantation, his death, which happened soon after, was
+supposed to have been hastened by shame of that humiliating
+exhibition.</p>
+
+<p>Rev. HENRY COLE, D.D., Dean of St. Paul's, a contemporary of the
+above, was born at Godshill: he shone in divinity and literature,
+and was a strenuous advocate of the Roman-catholic faith.</p>
+
+<p>THOs. JAMES, D.D., a learned divine and antiquary: was esteemed,
+from his extensive erudition, a living library, Born at Newport,
+died 1629.</p>
+
+<p>ROBERT HOOK, M.D., celebrated for his extraordinary inventive
+powers in almost every branch of art and science, was born at
+Freshwater anno 1635, and died at an advanced age, in Gresham
+College.</p>
+
+<p>JOHN HOBSON, rose by his skill and courage from the obscurity of a
+tailor's parish-apprentice to an admiral's rank in the reign of
+Queen Anne: he headed Sir George Rooke's squadron in the attack on
+Vigo harbour, where a numerous Spanish fleet was entirely captured
+or burned.&mdash;The little village of Bonchurch claims the honor of his
+birth-place.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>We shall conclude this general chapter with a brief summary of the
+local history, though the annals of a small dependent isle like this,
+cannot be expected to possess any very exciting interest.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>[In fact it can boast of no important ancient settlements or
+records&mdash;no valued chronicles of the alternate successes and
+defeats of ambitious rival princes and their contending armies, or
+the unpitied sufferings of the sacrificed population: and perhaps
+it would never have been mentioned in the national history, had it
+not been for the imprisonment of fallen royalty in the case of
+Charles I. Its situation certainly exposed it to the attacks of
+Danish pirates, and subsequently of the French; but these distant
+events constituting but a broken and unconnected narrative, the
+ensuing brief sketch will we presume be sufficient for the majority
+of our readers. We refer those who wish further information on the
+subject to the valuable work of Sir Richard Worsley,&mdash;from which
+this article is partly abridged.]</p>
+
+<p>It was subdued by the Roman troops under Vespasian, A.D. 43; but
+the conquerors could not have experienced much resistance from the
+natives, as no remains of their military works have been here
+discovered. Under the empire, the island was reckoned to contain
+about 1200 families.</p>
+
+<p>The Saxon kings of the South of England several times attacked the
+island with their accustomed unsparing ferocity: particularly
+Cerdic, in 530, who replaced the slaughtered British by a colony of
+his own countrymen; and Ceadwalla of Murcia, who having seized it
+in 686, was so incensed at the idolatry of the inhabitants, that he
+resolved at first to extirpate them, and repeople the island with
+<i>Christians!</i> but at the intercession of bishop Wilfred, great
+numbers saved their lives by submitting to be baptized.</p>
+
+<p>In the ninth and following centuries the island suffered, in common
+with the neighbouring coast, from the predatory visits of the
+Danes. For a time indeed they were checked by the great Alfred, who
+wholly captured or destroyed one large fleet, laden with the spoils
+of Hampshire and the Wight: but under the weak and disordered
+reigns of his successors, the northern pirates seem to have taken
+possession of this defenceless spot as often as they pleased; and
+after making it a depot for the plunder of the adjacent counties,
+and living freely on the inhabitants, sometimes wantonly burned
+towns and villages at their departure.</p>
+
+<p>The island was also severely harrassed by some of the rebellious
+Saxon nobles in the reign of Edward the Confessor; but after the
+Norman Conquest, its tranquillity was not materially disturbed till
+the year 1346, when a party of French landed at St. Helen's; they
+were soon repulsed by the islanders, though the warden, Sir
+Theobald Russell, was amongst the slain. About this time a variety
+of excellent regulations were made by the inhabitants for their
+better security: the landholders were by their tenures bound to
+defend the castle of Carisbrooke for 40 days at their own charges;
+the county of Devon sent for its defence 76 men-at arms, and the
+city of London 300 slingers and bowmen.</p>
+
+<p>Another party of the French seem to have made a more successful
+attack in the first year of Richard II: indeed the islanders at
+that time had little besides their own valor to depend on for
+protection; as there were no forts to obstruct an enemy's landing;
+Carisbrooke Castle standing in the centre of the island, could
+only serve for a partial retreat: and serious ravages might be
+committed ere any assistance arrived from the mainland. This want
+of domestic security so discouraged the natives, that many families
+withdrew, when an order was issued to the wardens to seize the
+lands of all such as refused to return.</p>
+
+<p>Not long afterwards a powerful body of Frenchmen landed in the
+island, the militia of which (900 in number,) had been reinforced
+from Southampton and London, in expectation of this hostile visit.
+The invaders were unable to reduce Carisbrooke Castle, which was
+commanded by the governor, Sir H. Tyrrel&mdash;and moreover suffered
+considerable loss by an ambuscade at a place near Newport, still
+called Deadman's Lane; [Footnote: A tumulus where the slain were
+buried, at the south entrance to the town, was exultingly named
+<i>Noddies'</i> Hill&mdash;whence the present appellation Nodehill.] yet as
+the houses of the inhabitants lay at their mercy, they were at
+length bought off by the payment of 1000 marks, and a promise that
+no resistance should be offered, if they revisited the island
+within a year.</p>
+
+<p>In the reign of Henry IV, the French made two other attacks: on the
+first occasion they were repulsed with loss; and on the second,
+when a large fleet made a threatening demand of a subsidy, the
+islanders were so elated at their past success, that they invited
+the French to land and try their prowess in fair fight, after
+having had sufficient time to rest and refresh themselves: this
+handsome challenge was not however accepted.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to its comparatively remote situation, the island escaped
+those calamities which afflicted the rest of the kingdom during the
+bloody disputes of the rival Roses: nor was it engaged with any
+foreign enemy till the year 1488, when the governor, Sir Edward de
+Woodville, having raised a body of about 500 men, passed over to
+the continent in aid of the Duke of Bretagne against the king of
+France. At the battle of St. Aubin the Bretons were routed, and the
+islanders, whom hatred or contempt of the French probably impelled
+to a more obstinate resistance, perished to a man: this unfortunate
+event plunged the whole island into mourning; and in order to
+recruit the diminished population, an act of parliament forbad any
+single inhabitant from holding farms above the annual rent of ten
+marks.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th of July, 1545, a large French fleet appearing off the
+Isle of Wight, the English squadron which lay at Spithead, though
+greatly inferior in force, stood out to meet them: but the
+admiral's ship <i>Mary Rose</i> sinking with most of her crew, the
+others retreated into the Solent Channel; while the French landed
+several parties of troops, and after some sharp fighting, repulsed
+the islanders who had collected to oppose them; it was next
+proposed in a council of war to fortify and keep possession of the
+island, but this being considered impracticable by any number of
+men that could then be spared from the ships, they proceeded to
+pillage and burn the villages, till the inhabitants, being
+reinforced, attacked and drove them off with the loss of many men,
+and one of their principal officers. King Henry VIII, in order to
+prevent a repetition of such mischievous visits, erected several
+forts and blockhouses for the protection of the coast; and though
+the rapid advance of the British naval power still more effectually
+guarded it from the danger of foreign invasions, the islanders for
+many years afterwards neglected no precautions for their own
+defence: a train of field-pieces was provided among the different
+parishes, and the militia, in 1625, numbered 2000 men.</p>
+
+<p>In the division between king Charles I and the parliament, the
+islanders at first manifested some zeal in the royal cause; yet as
+soon as hostilities commenced at Portsmouth, the Newport militia
+expelled the weak garrison of Carisbrooke Castle, which, with the
+other forts, were delivered to the parliamentary troops; and on the
+arrival of the Earl of Pembroke, the gentlemen and principal
+farmers assembled at Cowes, and tendered him their best services.
+The inhabitants having thus taken a decisive step in closing with
+the prevailing power, remained undisturbed spectators of the
+ensuing commotions, till the king injudiciously sought here an
+asylum.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of November, 1647, Charles, who had just fled from
+Hampton Court, was met at Tichfield by Colonel Hammond, governor of
+the Isle of Wight, who invited him to take up his residence at
+Carisbrooke Castle. The offer was accepted, and for some time the
+royal guest appeared to be quite free and unrestrained in his
+actions and company; but afterwards his liberty was gradually
+abridged, his confidential servants removed, and himself imprisoned
+within the castle; the various unsuccessful attempts that were made
+to effect his escape only serving as a pretext to increase the
+rigor of his confinement. Yet during the subsequent negociations of
+the Treaty of Newport, he was set at large on his parole,&mdash;till a
+detachment of the army broke off the negociations by arresting and
+conveying him to Hurst Castle; 30 days before he lost his life at
+Whitehall.</p>
+
+<p>As its situation preserved it from scenes of hostility between the
+troops, the island enjoyed a much happier state than any other part
+of the kingdom during the civil war, which caused many families to
+retire hither: a circumstance that for the time rose the farm-rents
+in the proportion of 20 per cent. The subsequent local history
+presents nothing of any interest, with the exception perhaps of the
+powerful armaments which assembled in the neighbourhood during the
+last French war, and the large bodies of military which were in
+consequence here quartered.</p>
+
+<p>The absolute lordship of the Isle of Wight was given by William the
+Conqueror to one William Fitz-Osborne (in reward for his services
+at the battle of Hastings), "to be held by him as freely as he
+himself held the realm of England"; but in consequence of the
+defection of his descendant, it was resumed by the Crown. Henry I
+granted it to the Earl of Devon, in whose family it long continued,
+till the alienation of it was obtained by Edward I, for a
+comparatively small sum. The last grant was to Edward de Woodville
+in 1485; from which time there have been successively appointed by
+the Crown,&mdash;wardens, captains&mdash;and governors of the island: but the
+powers attached to the office have gradually declined, and at
+present it is a mere title, unaccompanied by duty or, we believe,
+emolument.&mdash;It is an amusing circumstance in the history of this
+little spot, that it had once the high-sounding honor of having a
+<i>King of its own!</i>&mdash;for the Duke of Warwick was so crowned by the
+hands of Henry VI, in the year 1444,&mdash;but it would seem that the
+glory of the name was all which his <i>Vectis</i> Majesty derived from
+his accession.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<h3>Carisbrooke, Newport, Cowes, and Ryde.</h3>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p>As a stranger's attention is frequently diverted from noticing many
+interesting features of a scene in the hurried moment of his visit,
+an index <img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> is placed at the head of each section, pointing only to
+the <i>most remarkable objects</i>&mdash;a peculiarity which, it is presumed,
+will be found extremely useful to those who have little time to
+spare for minute examination or research.</p>
+
+<p>Our arrangement of the subjects supposes the reader to start from a
+point nearly central, and pursue his tour of the island in a
+regular progress, without frequently retrograding, or considerably
+deviating either to the right or left. This order must prove
+convenient for reference at all events, let the visitor commence
+his journey from any of the principal towns.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>CARISBROOKE CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_3lg.jpg" id="illu_3lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_3sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 435px; border: 0" alt="CARISBROOKE CASTLE, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />CARISBROOKE CASTLE, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">"Still farther in the vale a castle lifts</div>
+<div>Its stately towers, and tottering battlements,</div>
+<div>Drest with the rampant ivy's uncheck'd growth."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The chief curiosities within the castle are</i> ... <span class="smcap">the Keep</span>,
+<i>the immense</i> <span class="smcap">Well</span>, <i>and the apartments which were the</i>
+<span class="smcap">Prison</span> <i>of King Charles I and his family</i>.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The high antiquity of this beautiful ruin, which occupies the crown of a
+hill only one mile westward of Newport, renders it an object of the most
+pleasing interest with all classes of visitors to the Isle of Wight; and
+it is the only local specimen of ancient fortification deserving a
+stranger's notice. It is known to have existed for at least fourteen
+centuries, having in that long period been subjected of course to many
+mutations. The Saxon chronicles mention it as a place of strength and
+importance in the year 530, when Cerdic subdued the island; and it was
+subsequently rendered almost impregnable, according to the mode of
+fortification which prevailed among the Normans, by William
+Fitz-Osborne, to whom the island was given by the Conqueror. And in the
+reign of queen Elizabeth, it received the most substantial repairs and
+ample additions; when the outer trenches and bastions were formed upon
+the plan of those of Antwerp&mdash;circumscribing about 20 acres.</p>
+
+<p>On our nearly reaching the top of the hill by the carriage-road, we see
+first the ancient <span class="smcap">Keep</span>, peering above the rest of the ruins;
+and next, the principal and well-guarded entrance to the interior of the
+fortress. Passing through an ivied gateway, built in the reign of queen
+Elizabeth, as appears by the legible inscription (40 E.R. 1520,) on a
+shield over the arch: we proceed to another gateway in a spacious square
+building, whose angles are strengthened by two noble round towers: this
+opens into the interior area; had several prison rooms, and was armed
+with a portcullis: but the whole of it is now in a sad condition,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Defac'd by time, and tott'ring in decay!"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more picturesque than the first view of this venerable
+scene: the most luxuriant ivy everywhere mantles the grey walls and
+mouldering battlements, interspersed with the waving branches of wild
+vegetation: and the surrounding terraces are adorned with the opposing
+tints of pines and every variety of deciduous trees.</p>
+
+<p>Being admitted through the curious old oaken wicket to the inner court,
+the attendant cicerone will lead the visitor to several objects in due
+succession: the most remarkable are ...</p>
+
+<p>The place in which the unfortunate king Charles I was confined (1647),
+and his children imprisoned after his death: but the apartments are so
+dilapidated that it is next to impossible to decide upon their
+arrangement: the window however is shown through which he vainly
+attempted an escape: this is generally examined with a greater share of
+interest than perhaps any other part of the castle, and is often obliged
+to contribute as a relic, some minute portion of its crumbling walls.</p>
+
+<p>THE KEEP is certainly the most ancient part of the fortress, having been
+built either prior to, or early in the time of the Saxons: and was
+rendered an appendage to the more ample fortifications constructed by
+the Normans. It is reached by a flight of 72 stone steps (nine inches
+each); was guarded by a portcullis-gate; and provided with a well 310
+feet deep, since partially filled by the falling ruins.</p>
+
+<p>At the S.E. angle are the remains of another very ancient tower called
+<span class="smcap">Montjoy's</span>: the walls in some places are eighteen feet thick.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class="smcap">Well-house</span> is to many persons the most attractive object
+within the walls of the castle,&mdash;for should the solemn ruins fail to
+impress that sentiment of reflection which proves to others the very
+zest of their visit, they will at least be not a little amused by the
+apt performance of a docile ass, whose task it is to draw up water from
+a well 300 feet deep! This office he performs by treading rapidly inside
+of an immense windlass-wheel (15&frac12; feet in diameter,) whereby he gives
+it the necessary rotatory motion. The natural longevity of these patient
+laborers is here exemplified by the instances on record; one done the
+duty for above 50 years, another 40, and another nearly 30. To afford
+some idea of the depth of the well, a lighted candle is lowered: and
+water is thrown down from a bucket, which produces quite a startling
+noise,&mdash;it will be three or four seconds in falling. For the same
+purpose, pins were formerly employed, but these were strictly forbidden,
+on account of their deleterious tendency on the water.</p>
+
+<p>The Chapel, the Governor's apartments, the Barracks, Powder Magazine,
+&amp;c. are also pointed out; but to go over the whole works of this
+venerable monument of antiquity, and give a minute detail of the several
+parts usually shown to strangers, would be tedious to the <i>reader</i>,
+though doubtless every spot and fragment must be viewed by the <i>visitor</i>
+with a lively interest.</p>
+
+<p>If a party be not pressed for time, they should go round the outer
+terrace, reckoned a mile in circumference, the walk is in some parts
+sequestered and most pleasingly solemn, in other points presenting very
+charming views; and altogether calculated to raise our admiration, and
+give a more perfect idea of this beautiful specimen of ancient
+fortification.</p>
+
+<p>The open space in the outworks, called the Place of Arms, is where the
+Archery Club resort during the season for exercise; no spot certainly
+could be more convenient: though by the bye, there is a degree of modish
+gaiety on such occasions, which is not altogether in character (at least
+to a picturesque eye,) with the solemnity of a scene betraying ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"The grey and grief-worn aspect of old days!"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<blockquote><p>The military establishment of the castle is at present altogether a
+sinecure; formerly this was the regular seat of the insular
+government; but now it is quite deserted, save by the individual
+who has the privilege of showing the place to strangers, and his
+attendants.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE VILLAGE OF CARISBROOKE</h3>
+
+<p>Is an extremely pretty place, and still very populous, though much less
+so than formerly, when it enjoyed the consequence of a <span class="smcap">city</span>,
+guarded by the only fortress in the island to which the inhabitants
+could fly for refuge in the moment of invasion: it rises on a hill
+opposite that on which stand the venerable ruins of the Castle: and in
+the intervening valley a beautiful stream winds its course towards
+Newport, sufficiently copious to turn several mills&mdash;the springs
+supplying water highly esteemed for its purity. The church is of great
+antiquity: and its tower is a very handsome specimen of Gothic
+architecture, proudly relieving itself from the surrounding trees and
+habitations. There are several genteel residences, and a few good
+lodging-houses in the village, whose neatly dressed gardens,
+interspersed with lofty trees, and environed by the most agreeable
+scenery, give to the place altogether an uncommon air of rural beauty.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">"How picturesque the view, where up the side</div>
+<div>Of that steep hill, the roofs of russet thatch</div>
+<div>Rise mix'd with trees, above whose swelling tops</div>
+<div>Ascends the tall church-tower, and loftier still</div>
+<div>The hill's extended ridge, crown'd with yellow corn&mdash;</div>
+<div>While slow beneath the bank, the silver stream</div>
+<div>Glides by the flowery isles and willow groves."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<hr />
+<h3>NEWPORT.</h3>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>To form an idea merely of the Town, it will be sufficient for a
+stranger to pace two or three of the principal streets&mdash;the High-st. of
+course from one end to the other; he will then see the</i>
+<span class="smcap">TOWN-HALL</span>: <i>the old</i> <span class="smcap">Parish-church</span>, <i>situated in the
+Corn-market; the public</i> <span class="smcap">Library</span> <i>in the Beast-market; and the
+ancient</i> <span class="smcap">Grammar-school</span>. <i>The most inviting short walks are
+over</i> <span class="smcap">Montjoy's</span> <i>to Carisbrooke</i>&mdash;<i>to the top of</i> <span class="smcap">Pan
+Down</span>&mdash;<i>and to Hurststake, on the banks of the</i> <span class="smcap">River</span>, <i>at
+high tide</i>.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Newport</span> is allowed by most travellers to be as clean and pretty
+a country-town as any in the kingdom. The houses are of a modern and
+respectable construction: the streets regular and well paved, with
+sufficient descent to be always clean; and two copious streams water it
+on the east and west.</p>
+
+<p>Being closely surrounded by an amphitheatre of lofty downs, beautifully
+checquered by pasture and cultivation, cottages and villas,&mdash;the
+environs are of the most agreeable and inviting character, and the
+climate mild and salubrious; to those therefore who love to blend social
+intercourse with the pleasures of a cheerful yet quiet retreat, Newport
+presents many decided attractions. Years ago it was observed, that
+"there were few provincial towns which could afford independence more
+sources of rational enjoyment:" and since then there has been a great
+accession to the local means of intellectual pleasure, in respect of
+philosophical and literary institutions, private and professional
+reading societies, a Mechanics' Institution, circulating libraries, &amp;c.
+&amp;c. The places of public worship too have equally increased; being three
+episcopal (two of recent erection), two for Independents, two for
+Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, a Bible-Christian, a Roman-catholic,
+a Unitarian, and a Particular-baptist. There are five respectable inns,
+in the town (see the List), and two assembly-rooms.</p>
+
+<p>From its central position, it is well calculated for being the principal
+market-town, and, as it were the metropolis, of the island. On the
+Saturdays in particular, it presents a very animated scene: being
+frequented by all classes who are obliged to attend for the purposes of
+business, or upon judicial affairs; which would naturally induce many
+other parties to visit in favorable weather, were it only for the sake
+of a pleasant jaunt.</p>
+
+<p>These advantages of course give it a steady trade in almost every branch
+of business; and latterly the shops have exchanged much of their
+antiquated country appearance for the more imposing style of the
+fashionable towns,&mdash;where dazzling glare is resorted to as the chief
+attraction.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Though Newport does not depend, like the watering-places, upon the
+annual influx of visitors engaging their lodgings for a season, yet
+many of the best situated and most convenient houses are handsomely
+fitted-up for the purpose; and should the river be ever
+sufficiently deepened to admit a passage steamer to ply at regular
+hours without regard to the state of the tide, Newport might defy
+all competition, by the rapid improvement of its various local
+capabilities which would necessarily follow.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The River (called the Medina, from dividing the island in the middle,)
+is navigable from Newport to Cowes for vessels of sixty or seventy tons
+burthen, during high water. The banks are beautifully dressed with
+scattered groves and copse-wood: and interspersed with the arable fields
+and meadows are several churches, seats, villas, farms, and cottages, on
+either side: and as the lands rise rather boldly, the while scene is
+viewed to advantage from the water, and will be found to afford a very
+delightful trip on a summer's day, to or from Cowes; the party leaving
+by the returning tide after about two hours' stay at either place.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>The gayest season at Newport is during the Whitsuntide Fair, and
+three successive Saturdays at Michaelmas, the time when the
+agricultural servants receive their wages, and re-engage for the
+following year. The old custom of the female-servants assembling at
+one part of the town, and the men at another, for the purpose of
+engaging in new situations, is still partially kept up; these
+occasions are familiarly called the "Bargain-fair Saturdays," the
+middle or principal one falling on the first Saturday in October.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h3>PUBLIC BUILDINGS.</h3>
+
+<p>Of these the most conspicuous is the <span class="smcap">Guildhall</span>, situated nearly
+in the centre of the town: it is rather a stately edifice of the Ionic
+order. Here the magistrates of the whole island meet every Saturday for
+hearing and deciding upon petty causes: and examining and committing
+prisoners to the Winchester assizes, or in, minor offences to take their
+trials at the quarter sessions for the Isle of Wight, formerly held at
+Winchester, but which are <i>now</i> very properly <i>adjourned</i>, to save the
+inhabitants the great inconvenience and expense of crossing the water.
+There are also the quarter sessions for the borough; and that excellent
+institution, the County Court for the settlement of small debts.&mdash;In the
+area beneath the hall is held the Saturday's market for poultry, eggs,
+and butter.</p>
+
+<p>Another showy building is the <span class="smcap">Isle of Wight Institution</span>, or
+permanent public Library, to which nearly all the neighbouring gentry
+subscribe. Besides the reading-room and library it contains a museum for
+local curiosities, &amp;c. Temporary residents in the island may become
+subscribers for six months by a payment of 25s.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class="smcap">Free-Grammar School</span> is the only building claiming respect
+for its antiquity (besides the parish-church), situated in the street
+leading to the Cowes road: it was erected by subscription in the year
+1619, and duly endowed. Though recently having been repaired throughout,
+its appearance is still rather picturesque: and possesses considerable
+historic interest, from the memorable conference held here between the
+parliamentary commissioners and king Charles the First, up to the
+unfortunate moment when he was unexpectedly seized and imprisoned in
+Hurst Castle.</p>
+
+<p>The PARISH-CHURCH is considered to be of the age of Henry II, as it is
+dedicated to St. Thomas-a-Becket: it is spacious, and has a fine lofty
+square tower; but there is nothing very particular either in its
+architecture or antiquities to call for minute description. The chief
+curiosities are ... the Pulpit, remarkable for its rich and ingenious
+carving: a monument to Sir Edward Horsey; and the spot where the second
+daughter of King Charles was buried: she died while the family were
+prisoners at Carisbrooke&mdash;and it was only by accident in the year 1793
+that the vault was discovered.&mdash;<span class="smcap">St. John's Church</span>, built a
+few years ago on the south side of the town, at the foot of Montjoy's,
+is a conspicuous object in most points of view: and though plain in
+appearance, is very convenient in its interior arrangements: it is
+supported on the voluntary principle.</p>
+
+<p>Newport returns two members to parliament.&mdash;The number of inhabitants in
+the town, which has considerably extended beyond the limits of the
+borough, is about 7000. The corporate body consists of 24 members; but
+since the passing of the Municipal Reform Act, there can of course be
+nothing peculiar in their constitution of which the reader need be
+informed.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>A Lace-factory on a very extensive scale is established just
+without the town, on the east side, going to Ryde: in the town is
+also an establishment which gives employment to many females in the
+lace-embroidering process.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>The Environs of Newport</i>.</h3>
+
+<p>The following villages and hamlets are nearly connected with, or
+gradually approximating the town:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>On the eastern side, surrounded by meadows, is BARTON's VILLAGE, near
+which a neat little church has lately been opened, on the road to
+Ryde;&mdash;just above it is a gentleman's seat called <span class="smcap">Bellecroft</span>.</p>
+
+<p>SHIDE, half a mile to the south, is picturesquely seated at the foot of
+the steep and high down called Pan: the river Medina flows through the
+grounds, and there are several respectable villas in its immediate
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Westward is the NEW VILLAGE, a street of genteel and comfortable houses
+(some of which are furnished for lodgings,) leading to Carisbrooke:
+behind it is the hill called Montjoy's, from whose lofty summit is
+obtained the most comprehensive view of Newport, its river, and the
+adjacent country. There is also a small hamlet on <span class="smcap">Hunny-hill</span>,
+north of the town.</p>
+
+<p>FAIRLEE is a principal seat, a mile north of Newport. The house is large
+and of respectable appearance: standing at the head of an extensive and
+beautiful lawn which slopes to the eastern bank of the river, surrounded
+by close and open groves.</p>
+
+<p>About a mile from Newport, on the road to West Cowes, stands the HOUSE
+OF INDUSTRY, a very large building, generally containing between 500 and
+600 paupers; it includes within its walls a lunatic asylum, hospital,
+school, and chapel: and has an extensive garden attached.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Its internal affairs and out-door relief are regulated by a Board
+of Guardians and Directors, consisting of a certain number of
+respectable inhabitants, chosen from every parish in the
+island,&mdash;under the provisions of an Act of Parliament obtained in
+the year 1770 for the parochial consolidation of the whole island.
+They are therefore independent of the Poor-law Commissioners, and
+have adopted only as much as they thought proper of the general
+statute.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>ALBANY BARRACKS, on the opposite side of the road, are capable of
+accommodating nearly 2000 troops&mdash;for a long time however the complement
+stationed here seldom exceeded a few companies, and for months together
+there would not be even a serjeant's guard: but latterly the depots of
+several regiments have been removed hither: so that there are now often
+from 1000 to 1500 men at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>Westward of the Barracks, bordering the Yarmouth road, is the extensive
+tract called <span class="smcap">Parkhurst Forest</span>, planted a few years since with
+oaks and Scotch firs, by order of Government.</p>
+
+<p>PARKHURST PRISON, to the north of the barracks, is an extensive range of
+buildings, dedicated to the benevolent purpose of reclaiming from
+infamy, if possible, a large number of juvenile criminals of the male
+sex.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>To accomplish this truly desirable object (as <i>punishment</i> ought
+certainly to be <i>corrective</i> in the best sense of the word), the
+boys are regularly instructed by competent tradesmen, in such
+branches of popular business as may be best suited to their
+respective capacities: in conjunction with the most approved course
+of common school-education. Particular attention is likewise paid
+to the elevation of their moral character, so likely to be
+permanently influenced by means of impressive friendly admonition,
+the frequent inculcation and daily observance of religious duties,
+and the exciting hope of reward for good behaviour in a mitigation
+of their sentence: in short, by the most encouraging and kind
+treatment, as far as is compatible with the strictness of prison
+discipline. None therefore, but the thoroughly incorrigible, can
+leave the institution without being greatly improved in their
+habits and dispositions, if not altogether reformed; since <i>Order,
+Cleanliness, Activity</i>, and <i>Industry</i>, must become almost natural
+to them by the time they are discharged,&mdash;their understandings
+cultivated, and their minds more or less impressed with the
+sentiments of virtue and religion.</p>
+
+<p>It would be injudicious to enter in detail on the subject of the
+routine management, or the particular discipline adopted in the
+respective wards: as very probably many alterations will be
+introduced from time to time, as experiment and practice may
+suggest: and moreover, as a "Report" is annually published by order
+of Government (at a low price), containing the most minute
+particulars in every department of the Asylum. For the same reasons
+we have avoided any description of the architectural plan of the
+prison, a pretty good idea of which may be formed in passing by on
+the high-road.&mdash;We must however mention one fact that speaks highly
+favorably of the salutary system adopted, namely, that during the
+five years from the opening of the institution in 1838, there
+occurred but two deaths among the boys, though the number averaged
+about 250 at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>The establishment has been visited by several eminent persons, who,
+after having particularly examined the course adopted in every
+department, expressed themselves so well pleased with its
+management and beneficial tendency, that another building at a
+short distance was erected in 1843; and altogether there is
+sufficient room now for 700 or 800 delinquents. No stranger is
+admitted without an order from the Home Secretary of State.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The newly erected residences of the officers and other parties connected
+with the prison, barracks, &amp;c., altogether form quite a village, known
+by the general term of Parkhurst.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h3>WEST COWES.</h3>
+
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The transient visitor here should immediately inquire for the</i>
+<span class="smcap">Parade</span>&mdash;<i>pass by the</i> <span class="smcap">Castle</span> <i>on the beach, to the
+bathing-machines</i>&mdash;<i>retrograde by the carriage-road under the</i> <span class="smcap">New
+Church</span>&mdash;<i>mount the hill at the back of the Castle</i>&mdash;<i>reach the</i>
+<span class="smcap">Old Church</span>, <i>which is contiguous to</i> <span class="smcap">Northwood
+Park</span>&mdash;<i>and then return, to cross over to E. Cowes</i>.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The decided advantages of Cowes are ... its excellent shore for
+bathing&mdash;and its safe and commodious harbour&mdash;which recommend it
+strongly as a fashionable watering-place, and the resort of gentlemen
+fond of aquatic amusements.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of this town from the water, particularly when approached
+by the passage from Southampton, is extremely pleasing; as the acclivity
+of the hill on which it stands is sufficiently bold to admit of the
+houses being seen above each other, as if built on a succession of
+terraces, while their starting formality is charmingly relieved by the
+intervening shrubberies and groups of lofty trees. To a stranger
+however, who may confine his walk to the streets just where he lands,
+this favorable impression would be almost obliterated,&mdash;for they are
+both narrow and crowded: though in these respects there is some
+improvement the further he goes either to the east or the west; but it
+is near the Castle that he must look for the greatest share of united
+beauty and respectability. The truth is, the lower part near the quay is
+of course occupied by tradesmen, for the advantages of business, and
+convenient landing-places; and as their houses stand at the edge of the
+water, many parties prefer their lodgings to those in the more open
+quarters on the top of the hill,&mdash;and many of them are therefore
+elegantly furnished for letting.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Parade</span> affords a delightful promenade, being on the water's
+edge. Here are several first-rate houses, standing at the foot of the
+steepest part of the hill, which is luxuriantly clothed with hanging
+shrubberies and several groups of majestic trees, presenting a perfectly
+unique picture of sylvan and marine beauty. The Royal Yacht-Club House,
+with its ample awning, and the very elegant Gothic villa of Sir John
+Hippesley, will be particularly noticed.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_4lg.jpg" id="illu_4lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_4sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 410px; border: 0" alt="THE CASTLE, WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br />THE CASTLE, WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT</a></p>
+
+<p>THE CASTLE stands westward of the Parade: but were it not for a small
+battery of eleven guns in front, the stranger might search in vain for a
+fabric which he could identify as "a Castle," at least by any portion of
+its modernized architecture and surrounding embellishments. In fact, the
+original dwelling was a few years ago greatly enlarged&mdash;made a story
+higher&mdash;the open ground at the back inclosed (!)&mdash;with other alterations
+to render it a fit residence for nobility. It was built by king Henry
+VIII, about the same time as those at Sandown, Yarmouth, and Calshot,
+for the purpose of securing the coast against the then frequent attacks
+of pirates, as well as the more formidable invasions of the French.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the Castle are the bathing-machines; the villas of Earl Belfast
+and Lord Grantham; and behind these several others built in various
+tasty styles, and acquiring a picturesque effect from being more or less
+screened by the copse-wood on the steep slope at their back. But the
+chief ornament of this quarter is the new Episcopal chapel, whether
+viewed near, or from a distance on the water,&mdash;being a chastely-elegant
+structure in the Gothic style, in a most commanding situation: it is
+private property. Should the stranger feel disposed to extend his walk
+for about a mile further on the beach, which he would find very
+agreeable&mdash;he will come to a gentleman's residence distinguished by an
+air of antiquity, named Westcliff, though the neighbourhood is popularly
+called <span class="smcap">Egypt</span>.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>We make this remark, because there is a lane close by, which turns
+up to the high-road from Cowes to Gurnard Bay, and by this road we
+would recommend the visitor by all means to return, for the sake of
+the magnificent prospect which it affords, and on the peculiar
+character of which the <i>permanent</i> attractions of the place so much
+depend. But to do this justice, the reader must have recourse to
+his Map. The most prominent objects are Calshot Castle, standing
+apparently isolated at the mouth of Southampton Water, and the tall
+tower of Eaglehurst, seated on the neighbouring shore.</p>
+
+<p>By "permanent attractions," we mean, that many landscapes of the
+most romantic character fail to attract our attention for any
+considerable time, on <i>repeated</i> visits, if destitute of those
+ever-varying circumstances which have in some degree the interest
+of <span class="smcap">novelty</span> such for instance as the rural, and more
+particularly the <i>marine</i> prospects of the Isle of Wight; these
+afford an endless source of amusement to the speculative
+eye,&mdash;whether directed to the soft and gradual changes on the
+variegated face of Nature <i>under cultivation</i>, or to the more
+animated, and constantly shifting scene exhibited in a crowded
+sea-port, or where there are other safe and ample roadsteds for the
+heaviest ships of war. In these advantages Cowes and Ryde stand
+pre-eminent.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Scenes must he beautiful, which daily viewed,</div>
+<div>Please daily, and whose novelty survives</div>
+<div>Long knowledge, and the scrutiny of years&mdash;</div>
+<div>Praise justly due to those that I describe"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>We are now supposed to have reached the top of the hill, where the old
+<span class="smcap">Church</span> is situated: this is a spacious, plain building, having
+a very tall square tower, as destitute of beauty as anything of the kind
+can well be: yet as it peers loftily above all the surrounding objects,
+is a great improvement to the outline of the hill, when viewed from any
+considerable distance. Contiguous to the crowded cemetery stands ...</p>
+
+<p>NORTHWOOD HOUSE, a large and elegant mansion in the Palladian style of
+architecture. The <span class="smcap">Park</span> is an extensive demesne, and profusely
+planted; there are however comparatively few of those venerable sylvan
+honors which constitute the beauty of park-scenery.</p>
+
+<p>On the eastern slope of the hill, where the high-road turns off for
+Newport, stands <span class="smcap">Westhill</span>, a charming cottage-ornee in the
+centre of a smooth sloping lawn interspersed with magnificent elms and
+close shrubberies.&mdash;In the environs of Cowes are several other genteel
+residences: <span class="smcap">Moor-House</span> is distinguished by its Gothic pinnacles
+and commanding station: and near Gurnard Bay is a pretty retired seat,
+appropriately called <span class="smcap">Wood-vale</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the two churches, there are Catholic, Independent, and Wesleyan
+chapels. There are three large Hotels (see the List), and several minor
+places of good accommodation; reading-rooms, a Mechanics' Institution,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>EAST COWES.</h3>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <i>The town itself has nothing to interest a stranger: but in the
+vicinity are several first-rate seats and marine villas&mdash;the most
+distinguished being</i> <span class="smcap">Osborne</span>, <span class="smcap">Norris</span>, <i>and</i> <span class="smcap">East
+Cowes Castle</span>.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>This little town is separated from West Cowes by the river Medina, which
+here joins the sea. From the unexpected concurrence of various favorable
+circumstances, it is looking-up to be a place of some importance: the
+value of property has already considerably advanced, and trade in
+general improved. It has one good Hotel, several respectable
+lodging-houses: a neat episcopalian church, and an Independent chapel.
+Having a large shipwright's yard, and a number of marine stores, wharfs,
+&amp;c., where merchant-ships lie alongside to take in or unload their
+cargoes, it often exhibits much of the bustling appearance of a sea-port
+town. There is a private landing-place near the ferry, for the
+accommodation of Her Majesty. The Custom-house has been removed to the
+other side of the harbour.</p>
+
+<p>The immediate neighbourhood of East Cowes has long been extremely
+beautiful, from being almost entirely covered with charming seats and
+villas, whose luxuriant groves and shrubberies give the scenery an
+uncommonly rich effect: and her Majesty having made this part of the
+island her marine residence, it now possesses a proud distinction in
+point of interest with the British public.</p>
+
+<p>A stranger should make his perambulation by first ascending the hill by
+the <i>old</i> carriage-road, passing several villas (see list) secluded by
+dense shrubberies and large trees; a circumstance little to be
+regretted, as their chief boast is the amenity of their location. But
+through the tall plantations on the right our eye will be delightfully
+attracted by the picturesque turrets of East Cowes Castle, and the
+surrounding beautiful grounds. At the pretty lodge-entrance to the
+castle, the road divides,&mdash;the left-hand branch running to Norris, the
+right to Osborne and Newport; and in about eight or ten minutes' further
+walk, we can return by the new road through "East Cowes Park."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_5lg.jpg" id="illu_5lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_5sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 419px; border: 0" alt="OSBORNE, ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br />OSBORNE, ISLE OF WIGHT</a></p>
+
+<h3><i>The Principal Seats near East Cowes.</i></h3>
+
+<p>OSBORNE, the property of <span class="smcap">her most Gracious Majesty</span>, is
+entitled, equally from public interest and its own importance, to the
+first notice under this head.&mdash;The situation is everyway eligible for
+the <i>marine</i> residence of a sovereign of the British Isles: for it
+commands a most extensive and <i>animated</i> prospect, including Spithead
+and other naval stations: has a beautiful sea-beach (with a private
+landing-place); and is sheltered by extensive woods and plantations. The
+original seat was a plain family mansion surrounded by park-like
+grounds, which have been extended by the purchase of several
+farms&mdash;including <span class="smcap">Barton</span> (whose fine old Elizabethan manor-house
+has received a complete and judicious reparation): so that the estate is
+now most conveniently bounded on the west by the high-road from East
+Cowes to Newport; on the south by a branch of the same road to Ryde; on
+the east by a sheltered cove called King's Quay (as tradition will have
+it from the circumstance of King John there concealing himself for a
+time when opposed by the barons): and on the north-east by the beautiful
+Solent Channel. Thus compassed by the sea and the best roads in the
+island, it extends from north to south about two miles and a half, by
+nearly two miles from east to west; enjoying the most delightful variety
+of scenery, from the simple picture of rural life to the grandeur of our
+<span class="smcap">naval glory</span>, and the majesty of the ocean itself.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>The quality of the soil differs very considerably; but the worst is
+well adapted for oak-plantations; and the thorough draining and
+other improvements now carrying on will make the whole admirably
+suited for agricultural pursuits, to which H.R.H. the Prince
+Consort is very partial. A great part of the estate is enclosed by
+a park-fence; and through the luxuriant woods and undulating
+grounds, several miles of excellent private carriage-roads have
+been constructed, much more being in progress.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The <span class="smcap">Palace</span> occupies the site of the old house; it is in the
+Palladian style (which so admirably admits the application to domestic
+architecture of the most beautiful features of the Grecian orders).
+Within the ballustrade of its lofty flat roof is a charming promenade in
+fine weather.</p>
+
+<p>The flag-tower is 107 feet in height, the clock-tower 90, the first
+terrace-wall 17, and the second 10. The Royal Apartments are contained
+in the loftiest part of the building&mdash;they are handsome and spacious,
+and standing altogether in advance, command on every side the most
+uninterrupted views: at the back is the flag-tower, communicating with
+an open corridor which extends the whole of the north-west face of the
+building; and on the other side of the tower is the carriage-entrance,
+opening on pleasure-grounds adorned with the choicest varieties of
+ornamental shrubs&mdash;thriving with a luxuriance which promises well for
+the appearance of the estate, when the whole shall have been finished.
+The builder is T. Cubitt, esq.; but the design, we believe, was
+principally furnished by His Royal Highness Prince Albert himself&mdash;whose
+taste, and knowledge of the fine arts, well qualify him for the
+undertaking.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>As it would be almost impossible to convey by verbal description a
+correct idea of the general appearance of this noble structure, we
+beg to refer our readers to the annexed Engraving&mdash;and also to the
+Views of Osborne, recently published in the "Vectis Scenery," and
+which may be purchased separately at 1s. each.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>NORRIS is a noble specimen of the castellated mansion, having been
+built in imitation of an ancient Norman fabric&mdash;massive in its
+construction, and remarkable for a stern simplicity of style disdaining
+all minute decoration. From this circumstance, and some of the loftiest
+towers being enveloped in the most luxuriant ivy, the whole building has
+so venerable an air of antiquity, even when closely examined, that we
+can hardly suppose it to be the production of modern days: and enjoying
+too as it does an uncommonly fine position on the most northern hill of
+the island, its general aspect is truly magnificent in every point of
+view. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the castle commands a most
+interesting marine prospect.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the rooms are of elegant dimensions, and the arrangement of the
+whole considered good&mdash;such indeed might be expected from the reputation
+of the architect, the late Mr. Wyatt. The stables, &amp;c., are also on a
+very ample scale, and in the same plain, substantial style as the
+castle, for which they have not unfrequently been taken by strangers at
+the first glance.</p>
+
+<p>The grounds are now well timbered: the plantations beautifully dressing
+the steep slope even to the water's edge. The utmost privacy might be
+enjoyed, for there is the accommodation of a good landing-place, and a
+carriage-road thence to the house.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Norris was the property of the late Lord Henry Seymour, who was
+engaged many years in its construction, and must in the course of a
+long period have expended immense sums in improvements that may be
+said to be now buried from our view. After his demise, it was
+two seasons chosen for the residence of their R.H. the Duchess of
+Kent and the Princess Victoria (during which time the latter
+improved remarkably in her health): and has since been purchased on
+very moderate terms by R. Bell, esq.&mdash;who greatly extended the
+scope of the grounds by fresh purchases of land, especially by some
+belonging to the Osborne estate&mdash;previously to her Majesty's
+negociating for its possession.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>EAST COWES CASTLE, which enjoys a truly enviable site (for it combines
+an uncommon degree of shelter with the most extensive and <i>animated</i>
+prospect), is built in the bold style usually termed the Moorish, and
+has three handsome fronts of varied elevations, with a tasteful
+diversity of towers, mantled more or less by the most luxuriant ivy, and
+a great variety of elegant flowering plants. The Conservatory is a
+splendid addition; and the grounds, though not extensive, are very
+beautiful.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>East Cowes Castle was built by, and continued for many years to be
+the favorite residence of the late John Nash, esq., and was with
+him a sort of architectural pet, receiving from time to time such
+additions and alterations as appeared to be improvements to the
+general design, or called for on the score of enlarged
+accommodation; a circumstance certainly not calculated to insure
+the greatest amount of domestic convenience (as regards the size
+and arrangement of the rooms), though no doubt contributing largely
+to the picturesque effect of the exterior. On Mr. Nash's demise it
+was purchased by Earl Shannon,&mdash;and after his death by N. Barwell,
+esq., who in 1846 sold off all the furniture, and valuable
+productions of art which adorned this beautiful object of interest
+to visitors.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+<h3>"EAST COWES PARK"</h3>
+
+<p>Is the title of a very extensive building speculation, which comprehends
+above 100 acres of land, lying between Osborne and East Cowes. This
+tract was a few years back laid out for the erection of a number of
+elegant villa-residences, each to be surrounded with its garden and
+shrubbery, yet to command a delightful marine view. Excellent roads were
+made, having on either side a foot-path, flower-border, and neat iron
+pallisade; handsome gateways erected; and a pier, botanic garden, and
+other attractive improvements commenced or projected. The speculation
+did not however meet the success it merited, and comparatively few
+houses have as yet been built.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h3>THE HARBOUR,</h3>
+
+<p>To which Cowes is principally indebted for its origin and present
+importance, enjoys a high character for safety as well as convenience:
+it is used by vessels of heavy tonnage, either in waiting for a
+favorable wind, or for the purpose of repairing damages sustained at
+sea; and after stormy weather, is often crowded with ships of various
+nations, in addition to those registered at the place&mdash;this being the
+port for the whole island.</p>
+
+<p>There are spacious dockyards, patent slips, &amp;c., both at East and West
+Cowes: at the latter, excellent dry docks. The naval builders have long
+held a high reputation for skill: several men-of-war were built here
+during the last century; and of late years numerous beautiful
+pleasure-yachts, merchantmen, sloops of war, and other
+vessels&mdash;including the <i>Medina</i>, a first-rate steam-ship (lost on the
+West India passage), and some large steamers for various foreign
+governments.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p class="center">THE ROYAL-YACHT-SQUADRON</p>
+
+<p>Make Cowes their port of rendezvous: they contribute largely to the
+maritime gaiety of the place, and give particular classes of
+tradesmen an extensive share of employment; but the town altogether
+does not, it is said, derive that degree of fostering patronage
+from their presence which might be expected. The <i>Royal Thames
+Yacht-club</i> often make this their summer-station.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">THE REGATTA</p>
+
+<p>Generally takes place in August, and is an exciting source of
+hilarity with the inhabitants of Cowes, as well as numerous
+visitors from every part of the island and opposite coast,&mdash;should
+the weather prove favorable at the time. The sailing-matches are
+now mostly confined to the members of the Royal Yacht-squadrons:
+and it is to be regretted, that owing to the distance which they
+sail, and the number of days engaged, comparatively little pleasure
+is afforded to the mere spectator: there is however usually one
+day's continued amusement&mdash;when sailing and rowing matches for
+liberal subscription-prizes likewise take place between the local
+watermen, &amp;c.&mdash;excellent bands of music attend,&mdash;and in the evening
+there is a brilliant display of fire-works, both from the shore and
+from the yachts in various parts of the harbour. On these occasions
+the appearance of the whole is animated beyond description; and to
+a person from the country, the exhibition of such a numerous
+assemblage of the most beautiful vessels in the world must prove a
+lively gratification, for they are of every size and variety of
+rig, from the stately ship of 4 or 500 tons burthen down to the
+yawl of only 10.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Cowes lies extremely convenient for parties fond of aquatic trips:
+for which purpose a number of experienced watermen ply excellent
+boats: they are most frequently engaged in the short and pleasant
+excursions to Beaulieu, Netley, Southampton (on the opposite
+coast), and Newport; sometimes to Alum Bay, and even for a voyage
+round the island.</p>
+
+<p>The bathing here is considered very excellent: particularly so at
+W. Cowes, from the boldness and pebbly character of the beach,
+admitting the machines to be put in requisition in all states of
+the tide,&mdash;a very great advantage. There are also hot and other
+baths for the use of invalids, both at the machines and at certain
+parts of the town.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h3><i>The Road from East Cowes to Ryde.</i></h3>
+
+<p>WHIPPINGHAM CHURCH stands near the second mile-stone, on the ascent of a
+hill rising from the eastern bank of the Medina: it is perhaps the
+neatest <i>old</i> ecclesiastical structure in the island, and is frequently
+attended by her Majesty and Prince Albert when residing at Osborne.
+Close by are the Parsonages and <span class="smcap">Padmore House</span>, embosomed in
+groves, and commanding an extensive prospect&mdash;the nearest object on the
+opposite side of the river being the ancient though plain church of
+Northwood. Altogether this is a very pleasing rural spot, and to visit
+it will make the difference of only a few minutes in diverging from the
+regular road.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h3>WOOTTON-BRIDGE.</h3>
+
+<p>Here we pass over an inlet of the sea, indifferently called Fishbourne
+Creek or Wootton River; the cottages border the road on either side, and
+have a remarkably clean and comfortable appearance. There are also a few
+good houses: the Parsonage, though rather secluded, enjoys a charming
+marine prospect; and <i>Kite-hill</i> will be known by its antique aspect and
+screen of lofty firs. But the pride of the place is FERNHILL, a
+first-rate seat: the house is built in the light Gothic style, and
+stands at the head of an extensive lawn sloping to the water,
+interspersed with groups of trees and flourishing plantations.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>We shall often see the prospect-tower of Fernhill peering above the
+masses of variegated foliage; and indeed the whole has much the air
+of a religious structure, enjoying one of those happy localities
+which distinguished such retreats of former days. The opposite
+banks of the river, or rather lake, are clothed with the finest
+oak-woods in the island, feathering from the very water's edge; and
+the whole neighbourhood presents the rich appearance of an
+extensive forest covering hill and dale. Should therefore the
+visitor reach this spot at the favorable concurrence of high water
+on a calm sunny day, he will agree with us that the whole forms a
+splendid landscape,&mdash;<i>rock</i> being in fact the only feature denied
+to make it perfect.</p>
+
+<p>Excellent roads have recently been made (by the proprietor of the
+estate,) on the west side of the river, below the bridge: affording
+a very pleasant drive; and as they open many delightful sites, will
+probably cause a considerable accession of buildings in that
+direction.</p>
+
+<p>At the mouth of the creek on the east side is a large hamlet called
+FISHHOUSE, including a dockyard, where several frigates have been
+built.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Wootton Common</span> is a mile nearer Newport: and affords an
+instance within a few years of a wild tract of gorse and brambles being
+profitably converted to tillage and garden. Here too are several
+scattered dwellings forming an improving hamlet; and in one of them
+(called in courtesy <i>Landscape Cottage</i>,) was produced <i>in all its
+stages</i> the present little work, as well as its other kindred
+publications.</p>
+
+<p>About midway between Wootton and Ryde, on the sea side of the road, we
+pass the remains of</p>
+
+
+<h3>QUARR ABBEY,</h3>
+
+<p>The most considerable ecclesiastical establishment ever founded in the
+Isle of Wight, which had, like every other part of Great Britain,
+previous to the Reformation, its full share of monastic and other
+religious institutions. This was among the first settlements of the
+Cistercian Order in England, having been built in the 12th century; was
+most amply endowed, and had several illustrious persons buried in the
+chapel, to whose memory sumptuous monuments were erected; but after its
+dissolution, the property was purchased by a merchant of Southampton,
+and the sacred edifice <i>reduced for the value of the bare materials</i>.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>The merchant's son afterwards sold the estate to the Lord Chief
+Justice, Sir Thomas Fleming, with whose descendants it still
+remains. Some of the outer walls are still extant, and must have
+circumscribed at least 20 acres. A foot-path passes through the
+grounds to Ryde, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Of this once-magnificent establishment little now remains; merely
+portions of the appendant offices, which were converted into barns,
+&amp;c., for farm-purposes. What was spared in the moment of ruthless
+spoliation, lay long buried under heaps of rubbish and weeds&mdash;till
+a few years since, when one of the occupiers, with laudable zeal,
+rescued from total annihilation the few remaining fragments, which
+are now open to the view of strangers.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>The other Religious Structures</h3>
+
+<p>Scattered through the island were ... a Priory at St. Helen's; one
+at Appuldurcombe; one at St. Cross, near Newport; and another at
+Carisbrooke, vestiges of which may still be traced; together with a
+great number of oratories, chantries, chapels, and religious
+houses, amounting in the whole to 70 or 80, exclusive of the
+regular parish-churches;&mdash;and yet scarcely any of these interesting
+monuments have survived their reckless doom to ruin and neglect;
+not even a spiry fragment sufficiently large or romantic to form a
+pleasing subject for the pencil, invite the mind to contemplation,
+or aid the poet's retrospective muse.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>BINSTEAD, to which there is a good foot-path from Quarr through the
+woods, is about a mile westward of Ryde. Several genteel residences,
+mostly built in a pleasing cottage-style, adorned by groups of trees and
+shrubs, are scattered over a wide space of broken ground, where
+extensive stone-quarries have been worked for many centuries. It is a
+favorite walk with the inhabitants of Ryde, across the fields to the
+church (not seen from the road), which has lately been considerably
+enlarged and improved. The names of the respective villas will be found
+in the List of Seats.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>RYDE.</h3>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <i>The best may of seeing this populous town, by those who have
+little inclination, or perhaps less time, for perambulation is,
+from the Pier, to enquire first for</i> <span class="smcap">Brigstock
+Terrace</span>&mdash;<i>walk on for about five minutes still
+westward&mdash;returning, pass by the</i> <span class="smcap">Church</span>, <i>and round the</i>
+<span class="smcap">Town-hall</span>, <i>and Market-place</i>, <span class="smcap">St. James's
+Chapel</span>, <i>and the Theatre;&mdash;look into the</i> <span class="smcap">Arcade</span>, <i>a
+little below;&mdash;traverse the street nearly opposite the theatre,
+which will open the eastern part of the town, where there is a
+handsome</i> <span class="smcap">new Church</span>&mdash;<i>and the very agreeable Environs in
+the direction of Appley and St. John's, which ought to be visited
+if time could be spared, going first on the beach, and returning by
+the high-road, a circuit of about two miles.</i></p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_6lg.jpg" id="illu_6lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_6sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 399px; border: 0" alt="RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p>
+
+<p>Ryde now ranks the first town in the island for the number of its
+elegant <i>modern</i> erections, both public and private; and if building
+should be carried on with an equal degree of spirit for a few years
+more, it will also be considerably the most populous. It occupies two
+sides of a lofty hill, falling with a regular descent to the sea on the
+north, opposite Portsmouth, from which it is about five miles across.
+This short passage, from its perfect safety and general convenience,
+proves a great local advantage, being performed several times a-day by
+superior steam-vessels in about half an hour. But besides these
+established means of conveyance, large-sized wherries (most excellent
+sea-boats,) are in constant attendance to take parties across on
+moderate terms, or for hire by the day upon any aquatic trip, even to
+Brighton.</p>
+
+<p>The town used formerly to be distinguished into Upper and Lower Ryde,
+from having several fields between, but now it is only the difference of
+position which calls for any term of distinction; for where the green
+meadows then formed the separation, is now the most closely built upon;
+and at the beginning of this century, Yelf's Hotel stood a new and
+isolated object.</p>
+
+<p>The principal streets are very open, clean, and well-paved; regularly
+disposed, most of them crossing each other nearly at right angles.
+Several of the handsomest run parallel almost in a direct line to the
+beach, thus affording the very desirable advantage of an interesting
+sea-view.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<p>THE PIER being the first object to interest a stranger, and having
+contributed more than anything else to the advancement of the town, is
+well entitled to priority of notice.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Up to the year 1814, when it was constructed by a company in
+subscription shares of &pound;.50 each, landing or embarking was rendered
+generally a miserable task, except during very favorable weather,
+at the moment of high tide. The practice then was, to cram the
+passengers promiscuously into a common luggage-cart, till it was
+drawn out upon the almost level sands sufficiently far for a large
+wherry to float alongside, into which they were then transferred,
+and conveyed to the sailing-packet, perhaps lying off at some
+considerable distance. The reader will readily believe that this
+united cart and boat process of reaching the vessel or shore could
+not be very inviting at the best of times; but it was really
+terrific to weak and timid persons during the concurrence of a
+heavy rain, and the tide perhaps at its lowest ebb!&mdash;to say nothing
+of the horrors of a dark and squally night.</p>
+
+<p>The length of the Pier is now nearly half a mile (being double the
+extent it was originally), having had 500 feet added in the year
+1824: the same augmentation again in 1833; and in 1842 it received
+the crowning addition of a most spacious and well constructed
+<span class="smcap">Head</span>, which was rendered everyway more convenient for
+passengers landing or embarking. This last improvement must afford
+a most delightful accommodation for the gentry who prefer the pier
+for their usual promenade; and where, from the great extent it
+stretches out into the open sea, those invalids who are precluded
+from exercise, may more conveniently enjoy the invigorating
+sea-breeze. It is firmly constructed of timber: has four or five
+landing-places at different distances to suit the state of the
+tide: a strong railing on each side; and is furnished with several
+open and covered seats.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS</i>.</h3>
+
+<p>The TOWN-HALL and <span class="smcap">Market-house</span> affords the best proof of the
+public spirit of the inhabitants of Hyde in regard to local
+improvements: for this handsome edifice is on a scale to accommodate
+three or four times the present population. It was first opened in the
+year 1831: and the commissioners for improving the town endeavoured to
+establish a permanent market for cattle, &amp;c., to be held in the large
+open space in front, but the attempt proved abortive&mdash;Newport lying so
+much more conveniently for the general resort of agriculturists and
+tradesmen from every quarter of the island.&mdash;It is remarkable, however,
+considering the spirit of the inhabitants for public improvements, that
+it should have been left to the year 1840, before the town was lighted
+with gas!</p>
+
+<p>The <span class="smcap">Arcade</span> is an elegant piece of architecture, though it does
+not make that imposing figure of its exterior, which the visitor would
+expect, when previously told that it cost at least &pound;10,000. It contains
+14 shops, and a very large room for the exhibition and sale of works of
+art: every portion being finished in the best style of workmanship.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>This bold undertaking for a private individual, we are sorry to
+say, has not yet realized a remunerating return. The mistake seems
+to have been in fixing upon a site which had no local advantages to
+recommend it for a fashionable promenade; nor likely ever to become
+a much-frequented thoroughfare, popular and busy. Moreover, the
+tradesmen generally find it more to their advantage to engage
+respectable houses in the best streets, where they can profitably
+let lodgings, and make a much more attractive exhibition of their
+goods. These remarks will also serve to explain, why comparatively
+so few persons avail themselves of the extensive accommodation
+which the Market-house affords.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Brigstock Terrace</span> is a fine range of first-rate houses built
+according to a very judicious, uniform design, furnished by the late Mr.
+J. Sanderson. They command a beautiful marine prospect, as they stand at
+the head of a sloping lawn-like field, interspersed with several oaks
+and elms: indeed the terrace is the most conspicuous part of Ryde when
+viewed from the sea.</p>
+
+<p>On the west side of the town too is a very spacious square, comprising a
+great variety of tastefully-embellished mansions; indeed in every
+direction a number of elegant houses are constructing,&mdash;tenants being
+found for most of them even before they are completed.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>A very few years ago it was quite an easy task to point out by
+distinctive marks all the most important houses&mdash;it was only to
+name <i>Westmont</i>, and the two unobtrusive villas of the Duke of
+Buckingham and Earl Spencer. The stranger could then have no
+difficulty in discriminating these: but now, to give a List of all
+the residences that are entitled to notice with an equal share of
+pretensions, however judiciously described, would prove perfectly
+futile, and only calculated to mislead the stranger.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>CHURCHES and other public places of divine worship.&mdash;These of course
+increase with the population; for only as late as the year 1827, the old
+chapel, now distinguished by its graceful spire (and seen at the back of
+the terrace), was so inadequate in its accommodations, as to require
+being considerably enlarged: and in the same year another was commenced
+as a private speculation by Hughes Hughes, esq., this is a long, low
+edifice, remarkable for its neat interior: a third has since been
+erected on the eastern side of the town, of a handsome design both
+inside and out, and very conspicuous from its open situation and lofty
+spire:&mdash;all three being episcopalian chapels of ease to Newchurch. The
+Independents, Wesleyans, and Primitive-methodists have also their
+respective chapels, and one for Catholic worship has been lately built,
+of the most elaborate style of architecture, especially the interior.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Family Hotels, Inns, &amp;c.</span>&mdash;Of these there are several, of
+various ranks, some of them vying in splendor and extent of
+accommodation with the best in the county (see the List). The
+lodging-houses are of course very numerous, and in every grade, from the
+humble <i>jessamy</i> or <i>myrtle</i> cottage at 20 or 30 shillings per week, to
+the lordly mansion at as many guineas.</p>
+
+<p>During the latter summer months, the theatre is usually opened by a
+talented company of comedians. The shops are generally very imposingly
+fitted-up and well stocked: and in the literary and fancy lines are
+several excellent establishments&mdash;news-rooms, circulating-libraries,
+bazaars, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote>
+<h3><i>Aquatic Amusements, &amp;c. at Ryde.</i></h3>
+
+<p>THE ROYAL VICTORIA YACHT-CLUB, established in 1845, numbers amongst
+its members many gentlemen of the highest rank, and owners of as
+fine yachts as any in the world. Their Club-house is a handsome and
+commodious building on the beach west of the Pier; and they have an
+annual Regatta in the latter part of the summer, when several
+pieces of plate, etc., are sailed for by the vessels of this and
+other clubs. There is also a <span class="smcap">Town Regatta</span> held about the
+same time, for the purpose of giving encouragement to the skilful
+and deserving watermen: the sailing matches being between the
+wherries of the place, which are of a large size, and esteemed by
+nautical men to be the finest sea-boats in the kingdom: and as the
+race is confined to a circuit which can be distinctly seen from the
+whole of the Pier, there is as much interest excited as if the
+prizes were contested between larger craft. Rowing-matches also
+take place; good bands attend&mdash;and the diversions of the day
+usually end with a splendid display of fireworks, a dinner, or a
+ball. In short, nothing can exceed the gaiety of the scene, when
+the weather is at all fine: as it is made the occasion of a general
+festivity by the inhabitants&mdash;and resorted to as a holiday by great
+numbers from Newport, and the eastern parts of the island.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Shore</span> presents, when the tide is at its lowest ebb, a wide
+expanse of sand, stretching for miles both eastward and westward of the
+Pier, preserving upon an average the breadth of a mile: here and there
+interspersed with ledges of rock, and the banks beautifully feathered
+with groves and shrubberies. In some parts the sand has accumulated over
+the mud in sufficient quantity to bear wheel-carriages (which is the
+case near the Pier): and is found to be gradually increasing both in
+depth and extent. The best time to take a walk upon the shore is
+directly after the tide has begun to ebb,&mdash;for the sand is then firm and
+cool to the feet; but after a few hours' powerful sun in calm weather,
+it is rendered sufficiently hot to give the flowing sea almost the
+temperature of a warm bath, on which account the bathing here is
+preferred by many parties to a bolder shore.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>That part called the <span class="smcap">Duver</span> (now built on,) was remarkable
+as having been chosen for interring the crew of the Royal George, a
+ship of 108 guns, which sank at Spithead on August 29th, 1782, by a
+sudden squall, while undergoing a careening of her bottom, when
+nearly 1000 persons perished.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Near the Pier are the bathing-machines, well attended, and in full
+operation; together with hot, tepid, and other baths for invalids.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>THE PROSPECT.&mdash;As the <i>amenity</i> of every situation depends, we
+consider, greatly on the range and beauty of the view which it
+commands, we here give a faint sketch of the one obtained from Ryde
+and its neighbourhood: by which, however imperfect, it will be seen
+by the reader, that few prospects in England can surpass this,
+perhaps even in point of pleasing composition&mdash;but certainly not as
+<i>a perpetual source of the most amusing observation</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The foreground of the Pier generally presents a most animated
+picture,&mdash;crowded with promenading fashionables; and surrounded by
+numerous wherries, steam-packets, and other craft, at anchor or
+gaily sailing about; a busy scene which forms a striking contrast
+to the quiet sylvan charms of the home-coast extending many miles
+east and west, and embellished by several delightful villas and
+other marine residences, among which are Osborne Palace (indicated
+by a lofty prospect-tower),&mdash;and Norris Castle, just beyond. We
+have the Solent Channel seen from here to peculiar advantage,&mdash;on
+the one hand contracting to the appearance of a noble river, and on
+the other expanding and uniting with the open sea. The far-famed
+anchorage of Spithead occupies the centre, with St. Helen's to the
+eastward, for ships of war; and westward, the Motherbank and
+Stokes's Bay, for merchantmen and colliers; hourly altering their
+position with the changing tides, and their number as suddenly
+increased or diminished with every adverse or propitious breeze.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Majestic o'er the sparkling tide,</div>
+<div class="i2">See the tall vessel sail,</div>
+<div>With swelling winds, in shadowy pride,</div>
+<div class="i2">A swan before the gale!"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The eye is soon caught by a splendid range of houses called
+Anglesea Villa, on the opposite nearest shore, contiguous to
+Monkton Fort; and is thence carried to immense mass of brick
+buildings that form the grand naval hospital of Haslar, with the
+town of Gosport in its rear; opposite which are the celebrated
+fortifications of Portsmouth, with its noble harbour affording calm
+security to the maritime glory of England:&mdash;Southsea Castle stands
+a little to the eastward, and beyond that is the low level of
+Hayling Island, where several handsome houses have recently been
+built.</p>
+
+<p>The line of Portsdown hills, on one of which is Nelson's monumental
+pillar, usually bounds the view to the north; but in clear weather
+our range of perspective embraces a portion of the South Downs
+which is crossed by the London road near Petersfield: and on the
+left, the beautiful retiring banks of Southampton Water to the town
+to itself, backed by the woodland heights of the New Forest;&mdash;while
+to the right it extends to the spire of Chichester Cathedral; but
+with the aid of a glass even to Beachy-head, which appears in the
+east like a faint cloud upon the horizon of the sea.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE ENVIRONS OF RYDE</h3>
+
+<p>May be characterized as being beautifully rural, enlivened by peeps or
+open prospects of the sea: for this is the best wooded quarter of the
+island, adorned with several charming seats and villas, and intersected
+by good roads.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>But perhaps it ought to be here explained to the stranger, that by
+<i>good</i> roads, in the Isle of Wight, is only meant that they are
+kept in tolerably good order: not that they are level, or even
+gently undulating: for the very charm of the island consists in its
+sudden alternation of hill and dale, producing a constant change of
+scenery: one moment you may be enclosed in a sylvan theatre; and
+the next minute stand on the brow of a hill, sufficiently lofty to
+command an interminable panoramic prospect of land and sea.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>We will first conduct our friends along the shore <i>eastward</i> of the
+town, for the distance of two or three miles. The principal objects to
+the westward have been already noticed (p. 41, &amp;c.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Appley</span> (about half a mile,) is a marine villa celebrated for
+its amenity: hence an excellent road to St. John's, where several very
+eligible sites for building on are to be disposed of: and a neat little
+church has recently been erected.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">St. Clare</span>, another delightful residence: the house built in the
+castellated style: and the pleasure-grounds and very extensive gardens,
+truly exquisite.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Puckpool</span>, a sequestered Swiss Cottage.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Spring-vale</span>, a pretty hamlet composed of lodging-houses.&mdash;A
+carriage-road hence by the back of St. Clare.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sea-view</span> (two miles), another pleasant hamlet, containing
+several lodging-houses: and having near it the beautiful villas of
+<span class="smcap">Sea-field</span>, <span class="smcap">Fairy-hill</span>, <span class="smcap">Sea-grove</span>, &amp;c. A road
+hence to Nettlestone Green.</p>
+
+<p>The grounds of the Priory extend eastward for about a mile: the sandy
+beach the whole of the distance is remarkably fine.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <i>From the above it is apparent, that a Party may have a very
+pleasant saunter just as far as may prove agreeable, according to
+their ability for walking; as there is a choice of roads by which
+to return, thus making a circuit of any extent they like.</i></p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>We now start by the regular carriage-road for the rocky coast (commonly
+called the Back of the island), and first reach a hamlet on the rise of
+the next hill, named <span class="smcap">Oak-field</span>, and then ...</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">St</span>. JOHN's, a first-rate seat,&mdash;mansion plain, but admirably
+situated for prospect, and screened by beautiful wood, as will appear
+in the road making several sudden turns, over-arched by lofty trees,
+especially the silver fir. Shortly the tower of St. Clare appears on our
+left: <span class="smcap">Westridge</span> in a valley on the right; and several other
+minor seats are successively passed,&mdash;some partially seen through the
+woods and shrubberies, and others quite secluded.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  From the hamlet called <i>Nettlestone Green</i> (about two miles from
+Ryde,) a carriage-road leads down to Sea-view, by which the party
+may on another occasion return on the beach to Ryde, passing the
+back of St. Clare.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>THE PRIORY is three miles from Ryde: it takes its name from having been
+the site of an ancient monastic cell&mdash;is a spacious, plain mansion, and
+ranks among the finest seats in the island: here too, much of the wood
+is uncommonly fine, notwithstanding its exposure to the sea-air.
+Arriving at ...</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">St</span>. HELEN's GREEN,</p>
+
+<p>We are presented with a beautiful view of the Peninsula of Bembridge,
+Brading Haven, and the British Channel. The houses are mostly scattered
+round a large verdant square (which gives the name): and a spacious
+building, to answer the purposes both of a parish school and chapel, has
+been lately supplied by the liberality of a resident gentleman. But the
+chief object of curiosity here is <span class="smcap">the old Church-tower</span>,
+<i>standing now at the water's edge</i>, and still struggling against the
+further "encroachment of the sea," which in the year 1719, was such as
+to oblige the parishioners to build another place of worship in a more
+secure situation: this we passed near the Priory. The old tower was
+strengthened with a thick facing of brick-work, and painted white; for
+it was required to be preserved as a landmark to ships entering the
+roadsted. There is something extremely tranquil and pleasing in the
+whole of the scene,&mdash;and though the composition is simple, forms an
+excellent subject for a sketch.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  The Party may either cross the ferry with their vehicle to
+Bembridge&mdash;for there is a good horse-boat in attendance, and drive
+round Yaverland and Brading; or they may go to the latter place at
+once; returning over the downs to Ashey Sea-mark, which affords an
+almost unrivaled prospect,&mdash;and hence descend towards Ryde, making
+altogether a charming circuit of about sixteen miles.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>BRADING HAVEN</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_7lg.jpg" id="illu_7lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_7sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 434px; border: 0" alt="BRADING HAVEN" /><br />BRADING HAVEN, <i>As viewed from Bembridge Mill looking
+across to the Town of Brading, Nunwell, &amp;c.</i> ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p>
+
+<p>Exhibits during high water the beautiful appearance of an extensive
+lake: but at the recess of the tide, a mere waste of sand and ooze,
+comprehending above 800 acres.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>As the sea comes through a very narrow inlet at St. Helen's,
+several unsuccessful attempts have been made to recover from its
+usurpation so valuable a tract of land:&mdash;in 1630 the famous Sir H.
+Middleton was engaged, and indeed succeeded for a short time, by
+means of a bank of peculiar construction. But the sea brought up so
+much sand, ooze, and weeds, as to choke up the passage for the
+discharge of the fresh water, which accumulating, in a wet season
+and a spring-tide, made an irreparable breach, and thus ended an
+experiment which <i>then</i> cost altogether about &pound;7000. "And after
+all, the nature of the ground did not answer the expectations of
+the undertakers; for though that part adjoining Brading proved
+tolerably good, nearly one-half of it was found to be a light
+running sand." But it should be observed, that previous to the
+above attempt, several of the rich meadows contiguous to the haven
+were at different times taken in.</p>
+
+<p>One circumstance was very remarkable: namely, <span class="smcap">a well</span>,
+cased with stone, was discovered near the middle of the haven;&mdash;an
+incontestible evidence, that at some remote period, the spot was in
+a very different condition.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>To the very remarkable <span class="smcap">change</span> which appears (by the
+discovery of a well,) to have taken place in the condition of the
+haven&mdash;and the threatened existence of St. Helen's Church, from the
+"encroachment of the sea,"&mdash;we beg to call the attention of our
+more reflecting readers. History and tradition are silent as to the
+cause; and the popular opinion of the present day briefly dismisses
+the question by ascribing it to an increased elevation of the sea.
+But this hypothesis is not supported by the appearance of the coast
+immediately to the westward of the haven, where some creeks or
+inlets <i>have become dry</i>; a circumstance which induced the Rev. P.
+Wyndham, who wrote almost the first intelligent Guide to the
+island, to conclude that there actually had been a secession of
+tides in this quarter; yet, singular enough, he makes no allusion
+either to the haven or the church. Now as there is really no
+evidence whatever in the neighbourhood that would lead us to
+suppose in the slightest degree, that the sea has encroached upon
+the land <i>by its gaining a higher</i> <span class="smcap">general</span> <i>level</i> (an
+idea deprecated by many eminent geologists), we must take the
+alternative in accounting for the phenomenon, and infer that the
+land of the haven must have <span class="smcap">sunk</span> at some very distant
+period, and that more recently, the same fate attended the
+foundations of the church, which certainly could not have been
+originally built so very close to the water's edge, as to be
+constantly enveloped in sea-foam during every fresh breeze from the
+east.</p>
+
+<p>Analagous to the above mutation in the state of the land, is the
+following singular fact related by Sir Rd. Worsley, of
+Appuldurcombe, who, living as it were on the spot, was not likely
+to be imposed upon. The reader is to picture to himself three very
+high downs standing nearly in a line,&mdash;St. Catharine's, Week, and
+Shanklin: the latter, when Sir Richard wrote the account in 1781,
+he guessed to be about 100 feet higher than Week Down, but which
+"was barely visible" over the latter from St. Catharine's, in the
+younger days of many of the old inhabitants of Chale, and who had
+also been told by their fathers that at one time Shanklin could be
+seen only from the top of the beacon on St. Catharine's. "This
+testimony, if allowed," says the worthy baronet, "argues either a
+sinking of the intermediate down, or a rising of one of the other
+hills, the causes of which are left for philosophical
+investigation:" and so with respect to the haven and the church, we
+leave it as a curious question to amuse our scientific
+friends&mdash;whether it is the sea that has risen, or the land which
+has subsided?</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>BEMBRIDGE.</h3>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <i>This is a peninsula about three miles long by one broad,
+terminating abruptly on the sea-side in a range of</i> <span class="smcap">sublime
+chalk precipices</span>. <i>The part easily accessible to strangers is
+White-cliff Bay, two miles from the ferry.</i></p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p>On account of the inconvenient situation of Bembridge as to the
+usual <i>routes</i>, it is not so much visited as Freshwater, whose
+precipices are on rather a grander scale, and the most celebrated
+in Great Britain of this magnificent species of coast scenery. For
+this reason, and also as the cliffs of both places agree almost
+precisely in their geological character (for they are but the
+termini of the same chain of hills), we shall merge the <i>general</i>
+description of the former in that of the latter; but we would
+advise the stranger who may sojourn at Ryde, by all means to visit
+Bembridge, if he should decline going to Freshwater; and if in a
+good boat on a fine day, so much the better,&mdash;he will be well
+gratified with the <i>brilliant</i> spectacle which these noble "<i>white
+cliffs of Albion</i>" present.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Before the year 1830, Bembridge seemed to be shut out from intercourse
+with the world: it was very rarely visited; possessed no facilities of
+communication; and had no charms to call the traveller aside from the
+routine track. But owing to the <span class="smcap">wise</span> and spirited exertions of
+a resident gentleman, it was soon rendered a populous village.</p>
+
+<p>Among the first improvements was the erection (by public subscription)
+of a handsome little church for the accommodation of the inhabitants,
+who before had no place of episcopalian worship nearer than Brading: the
+next consideration was the establishment of a horse-boat, and other
+regular means of passage across the haven:&mdash;land was sold off on
+eligible terms for building; several tasty villas were soon erected, and
+ample shrubberies formed:&mdash;new roads were projected, the old ones
+widened and repaired, and travelling altogether rendered more agreeable.
+A respectable Hotel was also built at the same time, near the beach.</p>
+
+<p>The face of the country about Bembridge is pleasant enough, being
+agreeably checquered by grove and meadow, cultivation and open
+pasturage: but it is <span class="smcap">the surrounding prospect</span> which yields the
+chief pleasure. The situation of the Church and other principal
+buildings, is sufficiently evident to the visitor from St. Helen's, or
+as he crosses the ferry.</p>
+
+<p>The chalk precipices of Bembridge are named <i>the Culvers</i>, from the
+circumstance it is said, of their having been the haunt of immense
+numbers of wild pigeons; and they are now, as has been already mentioned
+(p. 21), resorted to in the summer months by prodigious flights of
+various sea-fowl. There is a small cavern called <span class="smcap">Hermit's Hole</span>
+in the face of the cliff, about thirty feet from the top; the descent to
+it however is steep and narrow, and it is comparatively but seldom
+visited.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bembridge Ledge</span> is a dangerous reef of rocks, stretching out
+into the sea a considerable distance: a floating beacon-light called
+"the Nab" is always moored within a short distance, to warn ships of
+their position.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>YAVERLAND. This is a straggling village near the sea-shore, between
+Brading and Sandown Fort. The little parish-church and the adjoining
+mansion (now converted into a farm house,) exhibit a venerable
+appearance, and being surrounded by groves of magnificent elms, the
+whole presents one of the prettiest <i>rural</i> scenes in the island; and to
+the amateur of sketching, it must prove a treat. The Parsonage too will
+be admired for its appropriate character and pleasant
+situation.&mdash;Passing a few scattered cottages, our road will be on the
+pebbly beach to ...</p>
+
+<p class="center">SANDOWN,</p>
+
+<p>Altogether an extensive village, containing several new houses built
+near the sea-shore, intended for letting as summer lodgings: some of
+them are large and splendidly furnished: and enjoy a beautiful view of
+the British Channel, the dazzling cliffs of Bembridge, and the range of
+coast for two or three miles in the direction of Shanklin. There is a
+church, newly erected in the upper part of the village: and a neat inn
+on the beach.</p>
+
+<p>Midway between Sandown and Shanklin we pass through <span class="smcap">Lake</span>, a
+pretty hamlet, having a few cottages that let occasionally for lodgings
+during the summer months.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>BRADING</h3>
+
+<p>Consists of one long, ancient street (through which is the chief
+thoroughfare from Ryde to Shanklin and the Undercliff,) and a few good
+houses recently built on the outskirts: it lies about half a mile from
+the haven; and still retains some of the privileges of an ancient
+borough. The Church is considered the oldest in the island; as it was
+certainly in existence early in the eighth century, though some date its
+erection so high as the sixth, and contend that the first islanders
+converted to Christianity were here baptized. On account of its
+antiquity, the numerous relics which it contains, together with the many
+well written inscriptions to be found on the tombstones in the cemetery
+(the most noted of which perhaps is the one erected to the memory of
+"Little Jane,") it is very frequently visited by parties making the
+southern tour. The surrounding country too is agreeably varied by wood
+and water, arable and pasture, and a very fine outline of hill and dale.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>To return to Ryde or Newport over the downs from Brading, will be found
+exceedingly interesting to those strangers who delight in the
+contemplation of grand prospects, and a most fertile and well
+cultivated country:&mdash;having no objection at the same time to a <i>hilly</i>
+road as the price of their enjoyment, and which <i>we</i> call the most
+beautiful in the island.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>But as artists are often enraptured with passages of scenery that
+to others prove comparatively uninteresting, we subjoin a sketch by
+Sir <span class="smcap">H. Englefield</span>, showing the deep interest and pleasure
+the surrounding landscapes are capable of affording:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"To enjoy in all its glory, the complete view of the northern
+tract, which in detail presents so many separate beauties, we must
+ascend the chalk range that rises immediately from the woods of
+Nunwell. When the weather is clear, it is impossible to describe
+the magnificent scene which these hills command, from Brading
+Downs, by Ashey Sea-mark, and soon quite to Arreton chalk-pit.</p>
+
+<p>"To the <i>north</i>, the woodlands form an almost continued velvet
+carpet of near 10,000 acres, broken only by small farms, whose
+thatched buildings relieve the deep tints of the forests. The
+Wootton River winds beautifully among them, and beyond the whole
+the Solent Sea spreads its waters, which in clear weather is tinged
+with an azure more deep and beautiful than any I ever saw. The
+Hampshire land rises in a succession of hills quite lost at length
+in blue vapour. The inland view to the <i>south</i> is far from
+destitute of beauty, though less striking than the northern scene.
+The vale between the chalk range and the southern hills is seen in
+its full extent: and the southern hills themselves rise to a
+majestic height. To the <i>eastward</i> the sea is again visible over
+the low lands of Sandown, and by its open expanse affords a fine
+contrast to the Solent Channel.</p>
+
+<p>"The nearer objects on the southern slope are also very
+interesting: Knighton House, with its venerable grey fronts mantled
+with luxuriant ivy, and bosomed in the richest groves, is as
+beautiful at a distance, as it is interesting on a nearer approach.
+Arreton is also surrounded with trees, which group happily with the
+pretty church and an old mansion now converted into a farm: and
+from the western end of the downs, the country about Newport and
+Carisbrooke is seen to great advantage. <i>Such is the faint outline
+of a scene, which, in richness of tints, and variety of objects,
+surpasses anything I ever saw.</i>"</p>
+
+<p><i>Note.</i>&mdash;Since this was written, Knighton House has been pulled
+down.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>Objects between Brading and Newport.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Our course will be for the first three miles due west. On the north side
+is NUNWELL, the oldest seat in the island, having been awarded by
+William the Conqueror to the ancestors of Sir William Oglander, the
+present proprietor. Noble specimens of every kind of forest-tree are to
+be found in the park: particularly oaks, several of which are many
+centuries old, the family having long employed every possible means of
+preserving these venerable chiefs of the grove. The house (a large,
+plain building,) stands at the foot of the down, and therefore is not
+seen from the road: but the surrounding park, woods, and farms of the
+estate, spread before the eye in a most beautiful style ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"With swelling slopes and groves of every green."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+
+<p>ASHEY SEA-MARK is very conspicuously seen, being seated on a high down,
+three miles from Brading, four from Ryde, and five from Newport: it is a
+perfectly plain, triangular object, erected in the middle of the last
+century to assist pilots in navigating St. Helen's anchorage.</p>
+
+<p>On the south side of the down appears the pretty village of NEWCHURCH,
+in the direct road from Ryde to Godshill, &amp;c. The situation of the
+Church is rather romantic, being nearly on the edge of a remarkably
+steep sand-cliff, through which the road is cut, feathered with
+brushwood and several overhanging trees.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>If the tourist be returning to Newport, he will pass through the long
+village of ARRETON, whose church stands at the foot of the down of that
+name: it is of considerable antiquity,&mdash;and though its style of
+architecture is certainly heavy, is upon the whole both picturesque and
+singular. Its chief internal decoration is a beautiful mausoleum to the
+memory of Sir Leonard W. Holmes, bart.: and in the churchyard is buried
+the young woman celebrated for her piety in the popular tract of "the
+Dairyman's Daughter."</p>
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<h2>THE ROMANTIC SCENERY</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE ISLAND,</h3>
+
+<h3>EXHIBITED ALONG THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST, FROM</h3>
+
+<h3>SHANKLIN TO BLACKGANG CHINE.</h3>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>SHANKLIN.</h3>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <span class="smcap">The Chine</span>, <i>a beautiful woody ravine in the sea-cliffs,
+is the great object of attraction; inquire the road to the beach,
+and you will be conducted through the scene back to the
+village;&mdash;of the latter, a, pretty good idea may be formed in
+passing through it to Bonchurch,</i></p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Here we enter upon the romantic scenery of the island. The village is
+most delightfully rural, and though it has several roomy lodging-houses,
+and two large hotels, still, from the bold variety of the ground, and
+the many shrubberies and clumps of fine elm and ash trees with which it
+is adorned, the dwellings are so hid from one another, that in almost
+every point of view it has the pleasing appearance of being but a small
+quiet hamlet. Except in the most exposed parts, vegetation flourishes
+with uncommon luxuriance,&mdash;even choice exotics: we would point to the
+Parsonage as an instance, enveloped in myrtles that stand the rigors of
+winter without protection: indeed it may well be said, that almost every
+cottage in this beautiful spot is surrounded ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"With fragrant turf, and flowers as wild and fair,</div>
+<div>As ever dressed a bank, or scented summer air."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But the crowning feature from which it derives its celebrity as one of
+the chief curiosities of the island, is THE CHINE&mdash;a term that certainly
+does not convey to a stranger any idea of the scene: it is a provincial
+expression for a ravine or cleft in the cliffs of the shore, and of
+which there are several along the coast, possessing a beauty or
+sublimity that renders them highly interesting.</p>
+
+<p>Having reached the beach, the visitor should take a short walk under the
+towering sandrock precipices which range to the right and left for
+several miles, before he enters the Chine. Nowhere on the coast of the
+island is there a more charming stretch of shore,&mdash;for the sand is of a
+cool dark color, <i>firm enough for wheel-carriages and horses to be used
+by invalids</i>, and therefore proves equally alluring to the aged as to
+the young, to enjoy salubrious exercise and recreation; it extends
+northward to Sandown&mdash;about two miles; its monotony being broken by
+occasional pools of sea-water, and a sprinkling of weed-covered rocks.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE CHINE.</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_8lg.jpg" id="illu_8lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_8sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 465px; border: 0" alt="SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br />SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT. (<i>Descent to the Beach.</i>)</a></p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the cliff stands a fisherman's cottage, which may attract
+our attention from its picturesque situation.</p>
+
+<p>The first view of the Chine from the beach is not the most favorable: as
+the eye of the spectator is much too low to comprehend all the deep and
+bold windings of the chasm, which contribute so essentially to its
+romantic effect: but, gradually ascending by a narrow path, we soon open
+a wider view, and should then pause, to contemplate it on every side. We
+see suspended on the opposite slope, the humble ale house, resting</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Beneath an aged oak's embowering shade."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Just below it, a pretty rose-mantled cottage: and not far off, the gable
+end of a gentleman's villa, so prominently seated near the margin of the
+precipice, as to completely overlook the awful abyss. This view is
+altogether picturesque and animated: for the foreground is exceedingly
+bold,&mdash;and the prospect of Sandown Bay and the sublime cliffs of
+Bembridge, give wonderful brilliancy and interest to the perspective.</p>
+
+<p>As we advance, the scene becomes increasingly romantic, especially when
+we are about half-way through it: for the deep sides of the chasm so
+fold into one another as to exclude all prospect, and yet afford a great
+diversity of coloring, light, and shade; the one side being beautifully
+hung with indigenous trees or shrubs, and the uncovered portions of the
+cliff of a glowing tint; while the opposite side presents the contrast
+of a sombre hue, and is generally too steep to admit of much vegetation
+ever gaining a permanent footing. Nor is the most critical eye annoyed
+by the indications of unnecessary artificial improvements&mdash;which so
+often tend to destroy the delightful robe of simplicity that such scenes
+of Nature's creation wear, <i>when they are fortunate enough to escape the
+infliction of man's refinements</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Still slowly climb the many-winding way,</div>
+<div>And frequent turn to linger as you go."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>We now approach the waterfall, at the <span class="smcap">Head of the Chine</span>; and
+should there have been lately any heavy rains, it forms a noble cascade
+of about 30 feet; but after a continuance of dry weather, it is reduced
+to a scanty rill.</p>
+
+<p>Ascending by a rude path cut in the side of the cliff, we pass through a
+rustic wicket, and take our leave of this celebrated scene, which has no
+doubt been formed by the slow operation of the streamlet in the course
+of many ages, insignificant as it may appear to a casual visitor in the
+middle of summer. The Chine of Blackgang is indebted for its origin to a
+similar cause: and this of Shanklin would have gone on rapidly
+increasing, had not the proprietor resorted to the aid of masonry,
+draining, piling, &amp;c. to arrest in some measure its further progress
+towards the village.&mdash;See p. 33 of the "Vectis Scenery" for a full
+account of the formation of the Chines.</p>
+
+<p>The sides of this chasm are about 200 feet in perpendicular height, and
+perhaps 300 wide at the top, near the beach, gradually diminishing
+towards the Head or waterfall, where the sides are perpendicular, and
+only a few yards asunder.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The earthy precipices between Shanklin and Luccombe Chines are called
+<span class="smcap">Dunnose</span>,&mdash;they form the southern termination of Sandown Bay,
+which is a beautiful stretch of shore of above five miles in extent,
+bounded on the north by the white cliffs of Bembridge.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>As we pursue our tour we can trace the course of the Chine (above the
+head), by the freshness and luxuriant growth of the trees that stand on
+its narrow banks: and just as we approximate the little parish-church,
+pass over a bridge thrown across it&mdash;but the streamlet itself is almost
+hidden by wild brushwood and aquatic weeds. The spring-head is a little
+above the church.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_9lg.jpg" id="illu_9lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_9sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 431px; border: 0" alt="SHANKLIN CHURCH, I.W." /><br />SHANKLIN CHURCH, I.W. <i>And the Road leading to Luccombe &amp;
+the Undercliff</i></a></p>
+
+<p>The Plate represents the church, and a remarkable portion of the road on
+quitting the village for the back of the island; it is seen ascending
+circuitously the side of a steep down, between a hanging copse and
+several groups of the finest ash trees,&mdash;one of which (on the
+left-hand,) has long been celebrated for its amplitude and beauty.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>It is quite impossible for language to convey more than a faint
+idea of the magnificent and interesting prospect which gradually
+opens to view as the traveller ascends the mountain ridge: the
+British Channel spreads its blue waters as the boundary on the one
+side; the greatest portion of the island recedes in the most
+charming gradations on the other: and the Solent Channel presents
+the animated appearance of a noble river, crowded with ships of
+every description; while the opposite coast of Hampshire and Sussex
+may be traced more or less distinctly for 70 or 80 miles.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>A series of pasturing downs stretch for several miles nearly parallel
+with the sea-coast: of these the nearest is Shanklin&mdash;its northern slope
+being abruptly broken by a fine range of cliff, composed chiefly of gray
+free-stone feathered by hanging woods, and on the edge of this beautiful
+precipice stand some very picturesque ruins called ...</p>
+
+<p class="center">COOKE's CASTLE,</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_10lg.jpg" id="illu_10lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_10sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 423px; border: 0" alt="COOKE's CASTLE." /><br />COOKE's CASTLE. <i>An ancient ruin on the Appuldurcombe
+Estate&mdash;Isle of Wight.</i></a></p>
+
+<p>Which being seen from a considerable distance in various directions, and
+never before published, appeared to the Artist to well merit a sketch.
+Sir Richard Worsley, in his History of the Isle of Wight, states it to
+be the "ruin of an ancient castle" (though it has been said that it was
+built as an object of view from Appuldurcombe House); but whether
+artificial, or really a relic of antiquity, is of little importance,
+while it proves so conspicuous an ornament to the scene.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>LUCCOMBE CHINE</h3>
+
+<p>Is another chasm in the sea-cliffs, similar to Shanklin in its
+character, but on a very inferior scale: and therefore is seldom visited
+by those in a vehicle who have little time to spare. But many walk from
+Shanklin to it, either on the beach (if the tide be ebbing), or by a
+foot-path near the edge of the cliffs, the distance being about two
+miles: either way is extremely pleasant. A few houses and cottages
+scattered about, serve to enliven the scene.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>We now approach a most singular and romantic tract of the south-eastern
+coast, dividing the claim of <i>interest</i> even with the sublime scenery at
+the west end of the island: we mean ...</p>
+
+<h3>THE UNDERCLIFF,</h3>
+
+<p>Which commences at East End, and terminates at Blackgang Chine, an
+extent of above eight miles, averaging about one mile's breadth: and
+bounded on the land-side by a towering ridge of perpendicular stone
+cliffs, or precipitous chalky hills; presenting in many parts the
+venerable time-worn appearance of some ancient fortress. Between this
+craggy ridge and the sea-cliffs, every spot bears the striking impress
+of some violent convulsion, such in fact as would be produced by an
+earthquake: but in proportion to the time that shall have elapsed, so
+all the more rugged marks of devastation are either obliterated by the
+liberal hand of Nature, or converted into positive beauties. Originally
+the whole of this tract, or nearly so, was rock resting on a sort of
+loose marly foundation: this being perpetually exposed to the
+undermining action of the sea at its foot; accelerated in wet seasons
+by the marle being rendered soft and yielding,&mdash;it is evident that,
+sooner or later, such a foundation would give way to the immense
+superincumbent pressure, and be attended with all the direful effects of
+a real earthquake.</p>
+
+<p>Most probably other subsidences will yet take place, until more of the
+oozy, sliding foundation shall be removed, and its place occupied by a
+sufficient quantity of fallen rock, as will secure the stability of the
+ground; as we find to be the case for the greater part of this singular
+tract, which has certainly been in a state of repose for seven or eight
+centuries at least. Fragments of the cliff are indeed frequently
+shivered off, but rarely or never attended with any very injurious
+consequences: it is those extensive <i>landslips</i> which are alarming, when
+many acres of valuable land are completely overturned and laid waste in
+a few hours. The huge masses of solid rock thus torn and dashed about,
+produce the grandest scenes of terror: but are at the same time the
+source of those singular beauties&mdash;that variety of fractured cliff and
+broken ground, which are the greatest ornaments of this romantic
+country.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>EAST END.</h3>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The Tourist ought, if possible, to walk through this very
+romantic scene, and if in a vehicle, be upon his guard that the
+driver does not hurry him by it, as is often the case.</i></p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Here, as we have said before, the Undercliff commences: and as soon as
+the stranger has nearly compassed the valley of Luccombe, he should
+particularly enquire for the spot which is the entrance to this romantic
+scene ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Where twines a path in shadow hid,</div>
+<div>Round many a rocky pyramid."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The distance is only a mile: the carriage in the mean time may proceed
+on to Bonchurch. But should the party decline the walk, they ought at
+least to alight, and advance near enough to the edge of the
+precipice, to have a view of the interesting scene below; and they must
+bear in mind, that though it lies within a few yards of the road, yet
+<i>to a person passing by</i>, there is no indication of its being so near.</p>
+
+<p>The great interest of East End arises partly from its present wild
+character, and partly from its being the scene of the latest formidable
+landslips that have occurred in the island. In the year 1810, a founder
+took place which destroyed about twenty acres of land: this was followed
+by another, eight years after, that ruined in one night at least thirty
+acres more: at which time above twenty full-grown trees were uprooted,
+and several of them completely buried in the awful wreck. It therefore
+affords the inquisitive traveller the best opportunity of examining the
+cause of the peculiar character of this part of the island.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>BONCHURCH.</h3>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>Formerly this was one of the most romantic scenes in the island,
+but has lately been converted into a fashionable village. Amidst a
+profusion of new houses, more or less tasty in their style&mdash;a
+villa, called</i> EAST DENE, <i>and the neighbouring old</i> CHURCH<i>, are
+all that will here particularly call the stranger from the
+carriage-road.</i></p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>In the year 1834, this beautiful spot was advertised to be sold off in
+small lots for building 18 or 20 villas!&mdash;a circumstance much regretted
+by the admirers of the peculiar scenery of the Undercliff, which was
+exhibited here in its utmost perfection. Nearly the whole of the land is
+now disposed of; some of the houses were built for the purpose of
+letting lodgings; one has been opened as a first-rate Hotel; but the
+greater number are private residences,&mdash;and certainly it must prove a
+most enviable retreat for families or invalids during the winter months.
+It is impossible for any spot to be better adapted for a number of
+houses being built in a comparatively small compass: for the whole of
+the ground is so romantically tossed about by the sportive hand of
+Nature,&mdash;presenting here a lofty ridge of rocks, there a woody dell
+adorned with a purling stream or a limpid pool, that most of the houses
+are completely hid from each other's view.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>From the bad taste which too generally prevails&mdash;we mean the
+<i>vanity of glare</i>&mdash;the affectation of <i>elegance</i>,&mdash;so frequently
+carried out at the expense of all propriety, we were not without
+apprehension that many of the gentry at Bonchurch would also
+neglect the essential rule, that <i>the peculiar character of every
+scene demands an</i> APPROPRIATE STYLE <i>in building and decoration</i>;
+for it avails little to have ivy-mantled rocks and mossy cliffs,
+the sunny knoll and the shady glen, with their groves and
+streams,&mdash;if the Genius of the spot be not consulted, and HARMONY
+made the rule of every innovation and improvement. In a word, it is
+too often in building as in dress, that many persons resort to show
+and refinement as the surest means of attracting the world's
+admiration for their superior taste and rank! But in justice to the
+Gentlemen who have located in this fairy-land, we must acknowledge
+that they for the most part avoided (as far as was possible),
+disturbing the natural beauties of the place, and have studied to
+make their happy retreats ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i6">"Smile with charms</div>
+<div><span class="smcap">Congenial To the Soil</span>, and all its own:</div>
+<div class="i6">For Ornament</div>
+<div>When foreign or fantastic, never charmed."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> The reader who may feel an interest on this subject is referred
+to pp. 36 and 43 of the "<i>Vectis Scenery</i>."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The most delightful residence at Bonchurch is called <span class="smcap">East Dene</span>:
+the beauty of its locality is unrivaled; the exterior of the house in a
+chaste style; and the interior fitted-up and furnished at a great
+expense in the antique mode of the 16th century.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_11lg.jpg" id="illu_11lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_11sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 411px; border: 0" alt="THE PARISH CHURCH OF BONCHURCH ISLE OF WIGHT" /><br /><i>THE PARISH CHURCH OF</i> BONCHURCH <i>ISLE OF WIGHT</i></a></p>
+
+<p>The Tourist should certainly visit the old Church, which stands near the
+shore, and not far from the road, though concealed from it by a lofty
+ridge of the fallen cliff: it is of simple construction, but beautifully
+canopied by a grove of magnificent elms, and is supposed to have been
+built in the 11th century,&mdash;which is taken as a proof that this part of
+the Undercliff was certainly in a state of repose at the time of its
+erection; and has undoubtedly remained so ever since. Still, we cannot
+question for a moment, but this spot must have been in some previous age
+(judging from analogy,) subjected to the same catastrophes which we have
+witnessed even in our own time in its immediate neighbourhood at East
+End. There is also a new Church, of a neat design, beautifully nestled
+amongst the rocks in the higher part of the village.</p>
+
+<p>As <span class="smcap">Rock</span>, in this part of the island, constitutes the chief
+source of picturesque effect, it would be an omission not to point out
+two crags which have gained quite a celebrity for their age and beauty:
+the first is <i>Hadfield's Look-out</i>, boldly rising from the road; the
+other a prominence in the face of the upper range of precipices, called
+<i>the Pulpit Rock</i>: the former has generally the appendage of a
+flag-staff,&mdash;the latter a rude cross, in unison with its name.</p>
+
+<p>The road through the valley of Bonchurch presents a most enchanting
+scene: shaded by noble trees; and edged by bold rocky knolls,&mdash;and a
+small pellucid lake and stream, beyond which appears a romantic tract of
+broken ground and wild brushwood, backed by the venerable grey
+land-cliff and the lofty brow of St. Boniface Down. On emerging from
+this beautiful spot, we have on our right a genteel residence called ST.
+BONIFACE HOUSE, situated close at the foot of the high down which gives
+the name; built in a very chaste rural style; and embellished by some
+noble trees, and a sparkling rill.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>We now open a general view of the fast-improving town of ...</p>
+
+<h3>VENTNOR.</h3>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>This is the chief resting-place between Shanklin and Niton. The</i>
+<span class="smcap">Church</span>, <i>and the</i> <span class="smcap">Cove</span>, <i>are the most interesting
+features</i>.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Ventnor has risen into importance with a rapidity greater than any other
+place in the island: for as late as the year 1830 it numbered but about
+half-a-dozen cottages, one hotel, a small inn, and the accompaniment of
+a humble grist-mill, so necessary in a <i>retired hamlet</i> as this was
+<i>then</i>. But such has since been the eagerness for building, that land
+for the purpose which was at that time sold for &pound;100 per acre, soon
+advanced to 300 or &pound;400; latterly the price has risen at the rate of 800
+to &pound;1000 per acre for the more eligible sites. And at present there are
+three first-rate hotels and several minor inns; well stocked shops in
+almost every line of business: and medical men established on the spot.
+Several streets of considerable extent are completed, others are rapidly
+progressing; and much has also been done in the way of public
+improvements, such as paving, lighting, &amp;c. The new Esplanade, on the
+beach, cannot fail to prove a delightful convenience both to the
+inhabitants and visitors at Ventnor.</p>
+
+<p>It is greatly indebted for its prosperity to Dr. Clarke's popular
+Treatise, to which we have already referred (p. 16,) when speaking of
+the climate generally. Its progress was still more accelerated by the
+interest which the proprietor of Steephill Castle, John Hambrough, esq.,
+took in its success, by erecting a handsome church, a large free-school,
+parsonage, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Building being still carried on with undiminished speculation, the
+general appearance of the town must be consequently anything but
+agreeable&mdash;nor has there been the lapse of sufficient time for the
+growth of the shrubberies (however genial the climate,) to attain that
+size which would afford the relief of even a partial screen. Little
+therefore can be particularized under the present <i>changing aspect</i> of
+the place.</p>
+
+<p>Among the buildings which attract attention in entering by the old road,
+are the connected range called St. Boniface Terrace, occupying a
+commanding situation, and the houses concurring in one general design:
+and below, some extensive erections, of rather a novel appearance to the
+untraveled eye, being strictly in imitation of the airy and picturesque
+style of the Italian villa.</p>
+
+<p>The somewhat confused appearance of Ventnor is no doubt owing to its
+unexpected advance having prevented the adoption of any uniform
+ground-plan, as would no doubt have been done could the proprietor of
+the land have foreseen the magnitude to which the place was so soon to
+extend,&mdash;for in this respect a considerable improvement is visible in
+the latest-erected part of the town. The most regularly laid-out streets
+are near the shore: and one branch-road runs by the edge of the
+sea-cliffs for about half a mile towards Bonchurch, thus affording the
+houses an uninterrupted view of the sea.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_12lg.jpg" id="illu_12lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_12sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 448px; border: 0" alt="ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH" /><br />To JOHN HAMBROUGH <i>Esq. of Steephill Castle, in the Isle
+of Wight</i>, <i>This view of</i> ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH, <i>erected by him at</i>
+VENTNOR, <i>is most respectfully inscribed by His much obliged humble
+servant, GEORGE BRANNON.</i></a></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">St. Catharine's Church</span> is a beautiful feature in every
+respect, both in its exterior and interior, being the neatest in the
+island: and situated as it is on a commanding knoll nearly in the middle
+of the town, affords an admirable relief to the whole scene, by
+arresting the eye from the scattered glare of the surrounding
+slate-roofed and white-walled buildings,&mdash;which are almost the universal
+character of the houses.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The COVE presents at certain times a very animated and engaging picture:
+fishermen preparing for or returning from their voyage; invalids and
+other respectable parties sauntering or reclining on the sunny beach:
+some reading, others amused in listening to, and watching the curling
+waves expire at their feet in spreading foam. The material of the shore
+is principally fine shingle, or very small pebbles, among which
+particles are frequently picked up, possessing a brilliancy that has
+gained for them the title of "Isle of Wight diamonds;" and though they
+may be comparatively of inferior value in point of intrinsic
+quality,&mdash;still, the <i>interest</i> taken in searching for them must prove a
+source of the most agreeable employment to those visitors whose health
+precludes any exercise of a more active nature.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">St. Boniface Down</span>, which forms a green back-ground to the view,
+is also an object of interest (at least with artists or amateurs of
+sketching,) that ought not to be passed by unnoticed. It is exceedingly
+steep: has a never-failing spring on its lofty summit, and is often
+cheerfully sprinkled with sheep, of the South-down breed, safely
+nibbling the close herbage on its precipitous side.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Speaking of the down, we should deserve to be censured by those of
+our elderly readers who may have been to Ventnor ere it reached the
+magnitude of a town, not to inform them, that <i>the then only Hotel</i>
+(so beautifully seated close at the foot of the hill,) <i>is no
+longer a place of public accommodation</i>; the license has been
+transferred. Many were the respectable parties of the olden time
+who used to amuse themselves with the attempt to gain the summit of
+the down,&mdash;sometimes successfully, but more frequently at the
+expense of a rather too precipitate descent, to the no small
+diversion of their friends who had less daring to make the
+experiment. In this age of refinement, such displays of rural
+agility would be regarded as "utterly vulgar!" there are however
+more circuitous and accessible paths by which we may reach the
+eminence, and hence enjoy a most delightful prospect.</p>
+
+<p>In concluding this brief notice of Ventnor, it would be very unfair
+to Dr. Clarke, not to mention the fact, that he was decidedly
+opposed to the residences of invalids (with pulmonary consumption)
+being accumulated together "<i>in the form of a Town</i>;" he recommends
+that a number of <i>detached</i> houses should be built along the
+Undercliff, each surrounded with the protection of a garden-wall
+and a few trees. But, begging the Doctor's pardon, we heartily
+rejoice that his advice could not be acted upon to any considerable
+extent (except at Ventnor and Bonchurch); because fortunately the
+most eligible and attractive spots in this romantic district are in
+the holding of gentlemen who have chosen such for their <i>private</i>
+residences: and certainly, if selfishness was ever pardonable, it
+is so in this instance; nay, for our part, we really congratulate
+the public, that the spirit of exclusiveness so widely exists in
+this happy region of the sublime and beautiful. For what a
+lamentable transformation it would prove of the natural character
+of the scenery, to have many large and often glary houses obtruding
+upon the eye in every direction! banishing all the <i>wildest</i> and
+most interesting local beauties, for domestic convenience or
+fantastic embellishment! Where then would be the attraction to call
+the thousands annually to our romantic isle? Where those UNIQUE
+LANDSCAPES which now constitute its proudest charm?</p>
+
+<p>And after all, the Doctor's objection to a residence in town, is
+largely compensated for in the case of Ventnor, by the many
+advantages afforded to invalids, that could be procured only in a
+populous place: such for instance as regular stage-coaches running
+to and from Ryde and other places; a good landing-place;
+bathing-machines; a post-office and reading-rooms; the location of
+several apothecaries and eminent physicians: tradesmen of almost
+every description; and the facility of enjoying society in the
+dullest winter months.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Westward of Ventnor, we have a sudden and most agreeable transition from
+the glare of the town to a quiet picture of rural scenery, broken only
+by two or three cottages neatly built in the antique style; this is the
+commencement of the property of Mr. Hambrough (of Steephill Castle),
+which extends to St. Lawrence, the estate of Earl Yarborough; succeeded
+by Old Park; and near Niton, the seats of Mrs. Arnold, Sir W. Gordon,
+and Mrs. Vine: altogether a delightful distance of above four miles;
+which we hope will long escape any desecration of its beauties by the
+operations of building speculators.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>APPULDURCOMBE.</h3>
+
+<p>This splendid seat, from its proximity to the Undercliff, is most
+frequently embraced either in the south-eastern or the continued Tour,
+in preference to giving it a separate day: therefore here is perhaps the
+best place for its notice, especially as the regular road from Ventnor
+to Newport passes close by: and as it is only two miles from the former
+town. It is thus described by Sir Richard Worsley, in his "History of
+the Isle of Wight:"</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"The house is pleasantly situated about seven miles south of the
+town of Newport: it has four regular fronts of the Corinthian
+order, built of freestone; the pilasters, cornices, ballustrades,
+and other ornamental parts are of Portland stone; the roof is
+covered with Westmoreland slates. The grand entrance in the east
+front is through a hall 54 feet in length by 24 in breadth, adorned
+with eight beautiful columns of the Ionic order resembling
+porphyry. On this floor are several handsome apartments, containing
+many valuable portraits, and other good paintings; the offices are
+very commodious, and on the first and attic stories are upwards of
+twenty bed-chambers with dressing-rooms. The house was begun by Sir
+Robert Worsley, in 1710: and completed by Sir Richard Worsley, who
+made considerable additions, and much improved upon the original
+design."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Sir Richard spent a great portion of his life in collecting the
+paintings and other relics of antiquity which adorn the mansion, and
+published a very sumptuous descriptive work, entitled "Museum
+Worsleyanum." The Estate descended to the Pelham family by the marriage
+of the Baronet's niece to the late Earl Yarborough.</p>
+
+<p>The park of Appuldurcombe is extensive; and the soil being extremely
+rich, supports a great number both of deer and cattle,&mdash;the former of
+which is nowhere else to be found in the island. At the back of the
+mansion rises a lofty hill, whose sides are hung with groves of noble
+beech, interspersed with many venerable oaks. On the summit is an
+obelisk, originally seventy feet high, built of Cornish granite, to the
+memory of Sir Robert Worsley: but of late years it has suffered severely
+from the high winds, to the violence of which its elevated position
+renders it so exposed. From almost every part of this down we gain the
+most splendid views; below, is the rich vale of Arreton, Newchurch, and
+Godshill: beyond is seen on the north, Portsmouth and the neighbouring
+anchorages, with the wooded heights above Southampton Water; eastward
+are the beautiful shores of Sandown Bay; to the west the prospect is
+continued far beyond the white cliffs of Freshwater, by the coasts of
+Hants and Dorset: and on the south expands the azure horizon of the
+boundless ocean.</p>
+
+<p>N.B. Strangers desirous of visiting Appuldurcombe, must provide
+themselves with tickets at the office of the stewards, Messrs. Sewell,
+Solicitors, Newport: the days allowed are Tuesdays and Fridays, between
+the hours of 11 and 4 o'clock.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>GODSHILL,</h3>
+
+<p>Bordering on Appuldurcombe Park, is a populous village, chiefly
+remarkable for the very picturesque situation of the Church, a large and
+venerable pile, which stands upon a steep hill in the centre of the
+village,&mdash;commanding such an extensive and beautiful prospect as will of
+itself repay the tourist for the trouble of ascending. The interior of
+the church is enriched by several interesting monuments, ancient and
+modern, in memory of the various possessors of the Appuldurcombe
+estates,&mdash;the most sumptuous being that to Sir J. Leigh and his lady,
+whose marble effigies are canopied by a beautifully ornamented arch; and
+the massive tomb of Sir Richard Worsley, which occupies the south
+transept, where a colored window is placed to give it greater
+effect.&mdash;Godshill has a small country inn called the Griffin.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The distance from Ventnor to Godshill is four miles:&mdash;and thence to
+Newport, six: the country is well-cultivated, but presents no object to
+call for particular notice: we pass the hamlet of <span class="smcap">Rookley</span>: and
+the villas of <span class="smcap">Pidford</span> and <span class="smcap">Standen</span>.</p>
+
+<p>WHITWELL is a very retired village, winding between Godshill and Niton:
+and having a church of some antiquity.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Returned to the Undercliff, the next place in our route which boasts of
+superior scenic beauty is ...</p>
+
+<h3>STEEPHILL,</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_13lg.jpg" id="illu_13lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_13sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 400px; border: 0" alt="STEEPHILL, UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />STEEPHILL, UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p>
+
+<p>Where a splendid CASTLE was erected in the year 1833, by J. Hambrough,
+esq. (thence often called after his name), on a broad terrace of rock
+that rises almost perpendicularly from the present road: and here it may
+not be quite uninteresting to state&mdash;at least to some of our friends who
+used to visit the island years ago, that the castle occupies the very
+site of the once-noted Cottage of the late Earl Dysart, and which was
+for many years that nobleman's favorite retreat. Steephill was then a
+most charming rural hamlet; but the cottages are removed (much to the
+advantage of the tenants), to afford a scope in the grounds
+corresponding with the dignity of the new mansion. Rustic simplicity and
+the wilder graces have given way to elegance and polished decoration:
+but whether the alteration</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Adds beauties to what Nature plann'd before,"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Is merely a question of taste, on which we shall not presume to decide:
+various are the opinions,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">&mdash;"And many a stranger stops,</div>
+<div>With curious eye, to censure or admire."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>As the public are now excluded from the garden and pleasure-grounds, it
+is rather difficult to get a good view of the castle; the best places
+however are ... a lofty knoll or promontory on the opposite side of the
+road,&mdash;and a rocky mound near THE CAVE, which is in the face of the
+sea-cliffs, marked by a flag-staff; and there is, close by, a path to
+the beach. Half an hour's saunter would be quite sufficient to enable a
+visitor to judge of the beauty of the scene&mdash;which at one time procured
+it the title of <i>Queen of the Undercliff</i>. If but five minutes can be
+spared, the tourist ought to quit his vehicle, and reach the brow of the
+promontory above alluded to, were it only for the sake of the delightful
+prospect which it affords.</p>
+
+<p>The coast of Steephill forms a pleasant little cove or bay, with
+remarkably bold and picturesque headlands: and the place altogether
+equals any part of the Undercliff in its natural embellishment of rich
+groves and sparkling streams, mossy rocks, and broken ground.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE.&mdash;In the design of this stately edifice,
+it appears to have been the aim of the architect to combine, as
+much as possible, all the internal advantages of a plain mansion,
+with the commanding form and embellished detail which usually
+characterize a castellated structure. It is not therefore open to
+an objection which lies against many of the most picturesque
+specimens of this dignified style of building&mdash;that internal
+convenience was sacrificed to the production of bold and pleasing
+contrasts in the face of the exterior: or that it was the growth of
+successive improvements. Indeed, both inside and out, all appears
+to be handsomely proportioned and well-arranged; while in any point
+of view the whole presents an aspect of elegant simplicity.&mdash;The
+general form of the castle is an oblong; and the most prominent
+features ... one majestic square tower which springs from about the
+centre of the north side; another tower of an octagon form at the
+south-eastern angle; and a beautiful hall-entrance on the east. The
+predominant tint is a dark grey: but the battlements, quoins, and
+mouldings, are of a light warm color, resembling the Bath stone.
+This opposition of tints has a most pleasing, chaste effect, when
+closely examined: but at a distance the whole melts into a sober
+hue, like the grey impression of time, and hence harmonizes the
+more sweetly with the surrounding scenery. Both kinds of stone were
+procured on the spot.&mdash;The architect was the late Mr. James
+Sanderson, of Ryde.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p><i>Remarks on the Exclusion of Strangers from most of the Gentlemen's
+Seats</i>.&mdash;However provoking it may prove to many visitors when
+making the tour of the island, to be shut out from a view of some
+of the most charming seats, still it may be justified in a
+considerable degree; and we feel it our duty to repeat what we have
+stated elsewhere, that we know several gentlemen who would freely
+open their gates to respectable visitors, provided they could be
+assured of every party being contented with a general view of the
+local beauties, without indulging a too prying curiosity; and at
+the same time would <i>refrain from plucking choice flowers, fruits,
+and shrubs</i>, many of which may perhaps have been cultivated by the
+hands of the owner with an affection of no little solicitude and
+pride; and of course it is not always convenient to keep a person
+merely to act as an attendant. But a more decisive reason with many
+gentlemen who love retirement is, that from the island becoming
+every year more and more attractive with pleasure-parties, an
+<i>unlimited admission</i> of strangers would at once annihilate all the
+charms of rural seclusion; it would in fact be converting the
+flowery walks of a quiet country-villa into as giddy a promenade as
+almost any popular tea-garden in the suburbs of the metropolis.
+Still however, speaking generally, it requires only some slight
+grounds of introduction: and in the absence of the family there is
+of course less difficulty,&mdash;it being then a privilege often given
+to the servants.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>ST. LAWRENCE.</h3>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Church</span>, <i>here, is from its diminutiveness, quite an
+object of curiosity; and the stranger will also notice</i> THE WELL, <i>on
+the road-side; but the</i> <span class="smcap">Villa</span> <i>and</i> <span class="smcap">Cottage</span> <i>are both
+secluded from public view</i>.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Here lawns, and groves, and op'ning prospects break</div>
+<div>With sweet surprize upon the wand'ring eye:&mdash;</div>
+<div>While through romantic scenes and hanging woods.</div>
+<div>And valleys green, and rocks, and hollow dales,</div>
+<div>We rove enchanted."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The scenery of St. Lawrence is a singular union of the cultivated with
+the wild and romantic&mdash;a pleasing interchange of the elegance of
+splendid retirement with the unobtrusive dwellings of laboring peasants,
+scattered amidst sheltering groves and ivy-covered rocks. Here the Rt.
+Hon. Earl Yarborough has ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"A country-cottage&mdash;near a chrystal flood,</div>
+<div>A winding valley, and a lofty wood;"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Long celebrated as the favorite retreat of the late Sir Richard Worsley,
+of Appuldurcombe Park, who embellished it in quite a classical
+style&mdash;planting a vineyard, decorating the grounds with models of
+ancient temples, &amp;c. The house has since been considerably enlarged, and
+ornamented in the old-English style with elaborate barge-boards and
+pinnacles. At a short distance is the recently built residence of his
+Lordship's brother, the Hon. Capt. C.D. Pelham, <span class="smcap">R.N.</span>&mdash;also in
+the Elizabethan style. By way of contradistinction, the original is
+emphatically called <i>the Villa</i>, and the latter, <i>the Cottage</i>. It is
+much to be regretted, that the public have of late been altogether
+excluded from the grounds&mdash;from even walking on the edge of the
+sea-cliffs!</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_15lg.jpg" id="illu_15lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_15sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 447px; border: 0" alt="ST LAWRENCE CHURCH" /><br />ST LAWRENCE CHURCH <i>UNDERCLIFF ISLE OF WIGHT</i></a></p>
+
+<p>The miniature CHURCH seldom fails of proving an amusing object with
+every visitor,&mdash;for it ranks among the smallest parochial places of
+religious worship in Great Britain: its belfry, the pretty little porch,
+and its several windows, are all in character; it has however lately
+been found necessary to lengthen the building, in consequence of the
+increase of population in the vicinity.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_14lg.jpg" id="illu_14lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_14sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 434px; border: 0" alt="ST LAWRENCE WELL" /><br /><i>ST LAWRENCE.&mdash;The WELL near the Marine Villa of the
+Right Honourable Lord Yarborough.&mdash;Isle of Wight.</i></a></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Well</span> encloses a fountain of ever-running crystal water, the
+soft murmurs of which combine with the surrounding scene to produce the
+most agreeable feelings; and it is marked by so much of that beautiful
+simplicity which is the foundation of picturesque effect, that perhaps
+no other object in its charming neighbourhood, except the little church,
+will afford the stranger more immediate pleasure.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE ROAD FROM ST. LAWRENCE TO NITON.</h3>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>For the succeeding mile and a half, our attention will be called
+to no one particular object; but we shall have the Undercliff in
+all its native character, a circumstance which must prove
+gratifying to those who admire Nature in</i> <span class="smcap">her own</span>
+<i>attire</i>,</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The reader will be pleased, we have no doubt, with the following brief
+notice of this part of the coast, by the late celebrated Mrs.
+Radcliffe:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"Oct. 15, 1811.&mdash;Passed Lord Dysart's beautiful cottage: it stands
+at some distance from the shore, and has several distinct roofs,
+well thatched: stands at the head of a winding lawn, with a fine
+beech-grove, and richly-colored copse. The little parish-church of
+St. Lawrence, perhaps the smallest in England, stands on a knoll,
+and terminates the cultivated valley; immediately beyond which we
+entered upon a scene of the wildest grandeur and solemnity. Many of
+the ruinous precipices of the upper cliffs project in horizontal
+strata, yet have perpendicular rents. Some of the shattered masses
+give the clearest echoes: we stood before one which responded every
+syllable with an exactness which was truly astonishing.&mdash;There is
+sometimes what may be called an amphitheatre of rock, where all the
+area is filled with ruins, which are however covered with verdure
+and underwood, that stretch up the sides with the wildest pomp: and
+shelter here a cottage, there a villa, among the rocky hillocks."</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Passing a gentleman's residence situated below the road on our left,
+called OLD PARK (not from its display of sylvan honors), we should look
+out for a romantic ascent in the lofty cliffs called ...</p>
+
+<p class="center">CRIPPLE-PATH:</p>
+
+<p>It is worth examining, being a curious instance of the formation of the
+bold horizontal crags and ledges which distinguish these hoary
+precipices. For some distance the path is in a sunken stratum of soft
+freestone, while the upper ledge of more stubborn rock overhangs it
+several feet. Having reached the eminence by a rude winding staircase in
+a rent of the cliff,&mdash;we shall be well repaid for our trifling labor,
+by the beautiful prospect which is disclosed of the Undercliff, spread
+like an extensive garden immediately under our feet. Many parties walk
+hence on the edge of the cliffs to Niton, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>MIRABLES is another charming villa, through whose luxuriant plantations
+the road is carried for nearly half a mile, affording a most grateful
+shade: but, by the bye, at the expense of all prospect.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Refreshing change, where now the blazing sun?</div>
+<div>By short transition we have lost his glare,</div>
+<div>And stepp'd at once into a cooler clime."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The house is secluded from our view: it is in the plain cottage style:
+but the grounds are not surpassed for rock and sylvan beauty by any seat
+on the coast.</p>
+
+<p>We successively pass through the grounds, close and open, of the three
+following villas:</p>
+
+<p>THE ORCHARD (on the same side of the road as Mirables, and like it, not
+open to the public view): a spacious villa in the embellished style, and
+the grounds immediately in front being formed into a succession of
+walled terraces, where the grape-vine and the peach find a congenial
+aspect: the coping too is adorned with a profusion of elegant vases,
+filled with the choicest flowers, nor is a gentle fountain wanting to
+complete the Italian beauty of the scene.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Beauchamp</span>, an unpretending residence in the simple cottage
+style, on the right-hand side of the road, proceeding to Niton: we catch
+a glimpse of it through the trees.</p>
+
+<p>PUCKASTER COTTAGE, the property of the late James Vine, esq., remarkable
+for its chaste and <i>appropriate</i> design, <i>as a residence seated amidst
+colossal rocks, precipices, and wild tufted knolls</i>. The house, the
+improvements in the grounds, and every decoration, in
+character,&mdash;<span class="smcap">unity</span> marking the whole: rather an uncommon
+circumstance, where there is an unceasing desire to give every grace to
+a favorite scene&mdash;and withal, ample scope and means to indulge the wish.</p>
+
+<p>The old road now makes a sudden turn on our right, and here occurs the
+only considerable break in the upper boundary line of the Undercliff
+from one end to the other. To the left of us, a considerable extent of
+land has been laid out and partly disposed of, for the purpose of
+building on; and new roads made accordingly: but as yet however the
+speculation has not been carried on with much spirit.</p>
+
+<p>At a short distance we come in front of the garden-wall of a gentleman's
+villa called <span class="smcap">Westcliff</span>, a beautiful and well-sheltered spot
+where the road abruptly divides, the left-hand branch pursuing the tour
+to Blackgang Chine, and the right to Newport through NITON, a village
+composed of a number of stone-built thatched cottages, some of which are
+furnished for lodgings; and has also a decent small inn called the White
+Lion. The Church is a pretty little object enough, standing at the foot
+of the down, over which used to be the only direct high-road to Chale
+and Blackgang Chine.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing on towards the Chalybeate Spring, we pass Westcliff, and come
+to the <span class="smcap">Royal Sandrock Hotel</span>, placed in a most beautiful and
+commanding situation; it will be readily distinguished by its ample
+verandah, mantled with the choicest creepers.&mdash;Next to the Hotel appears
+<span class="smcap">Mount Cleeves</span>, a respectable residence near the foot of the
+cliff, surrounded by huge rocks and craggy mounds:&mdash;one of these is
+adorned by a small obelisk that serves to mark a beautiful feature which
+would otherwise be overlooked. The cottage-lodge below is a remarkably
+pretty object.&mdash;See the Plate.</p>
+
+<p>This part of the Undercliff is at once picturesque and lively; there
+being just sufficient houses to give the scenery a cheerful aspect,
+without intrenching too much on the natural beauties of the place.</p>
+
+<p>We now enter on a scene which gives us a complete picture of the
+Undercliff in all its genuine lines,&mdash;for it was the subject of an
+extensive landslip in the year 1799, when a tract of about one hundred
+acres was disturbed, the whole sliding forward in a mass towards the
+sea, rifting into frightful chasms, and alternately rising and falling
+like the waves of the sea: a cottage was overturned, but fortunately no
+lives were lost.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_16lg.jpg" id="illu_16lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_16sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 455px; border: 0" alt="THE UNDERCLIFF" /><br />THE UNDERCLIFF, <i>Between the Sandrock Hotel &amp; the
+Chalybeate Spring,&mdash;affording the best idea of the romantic character of
+that part of the Isle of Wight.</i></a></p>
+
+<p>The annexed Plate of "the Undercliff, as it appears between the
+Sandrock Hotel and Blackgang Chine," is introduced in order to give an
+idea of the <i>general aspect</i> of this singular tract: the wall-like
+precipice which is the land-boundary rises abruptly on the right: the
+intermediate space to the sea-shore is broken into a series of craggy
+knolls and dells: the carriage-road threading its way between immense
+masses of the fallen cliff,&mdash;now conducted along the margin of a
+dangerous slope or precipice; and now descending into a theatre of
+detached rocks and wild vegetation; but even here, though the softer
+charms of scenery be wanting, it proves that ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">&mdash;"Whether drest or rude,</div>
+<div>Wild without art, or artfully subdued,</div>
+<div>Nature in every form inspires delight."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <i>The individual objects in the neighbourhood of Niton, calling for
+particular remark, are few; notwithstanding the general aspect of the
+scenery is strikingly wild and sombre. The</i> <span class="smcap">Light-house</span> <i>will
+force itself on our attention: the</i> <span class="smcap">Chalybeate Spring</span> <i>ought
+not to be passed by unnoticed; but the crowning feature of the district
+is</i> <span class="smcap">Blackgang Chine</span>, <i>a scene of the most terrific grandeur</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">ST</span>. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE.</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_17lg.jpg" id="illu_17lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_17sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 441px; border: 0" alt="ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE NITON, ISLE OF WIGHT." /><br />ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE NITON, ISLE OF WIGHT.</a></p>
+
+<p>The building of this lofty tower was commenced in the spring of 1839,
+and finished in the following year: the undertaking having originated in
+consequence of the loss of the ship <i>Clarendon</i> (see p. 85). From the
+frequent wrecks on this most dangerous part of the coast, it is rather
+surprizing that such a warning friend to the hapless mariner was not
+erected before: because many of the catastrophes were owing to the want
+of some light or signal in the night, which could be distinctly seen by
+seamen long ere they reached the fatal shore. It is true indeed, that
+between 50 and 60 years ago, a Light-house was built on the summit of
+St. Catharine's down, but for some reason not known to the public, it
+never was equipped and lighted: and was in fact very soon abandoned. It
+has been said that the site was too elevated, that it would be quite
+obscured by fogs and mists in those very seasons when its friendly ray
+was the most required;&mdash;it might be so, but certainly that was never
+proved by the experiment: and it seems strange that these grounds of
+objection were not suggested to the projectors in time.</p>
+
+<p>The new Light-house stands near the edge of the sea-cliffs, at an
+elevation of about fifty feet above the beach. The stone Tower is 101
+feet high from the surface of the ground, besides the lantern of about
+20 feet more: and the foundation is of <i>solid masonry</i> to the depth of
+thirty feet! The requisite offices for the two light-keepers are built
+round the foot of the tower, and are comparatively low, so that at a
+distance the lofty fabric appears as a magnificent column, or</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Like some tall watch-tower nodding o'er the deep,</div>
+<div>Whose rocky base the foaming waters sweep."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Inside the tower a broad stone staircase winds spirally to the top; and
+many visitors make the ascent, for the sake of the beautiful view
+afforded of the adjacent part of the Undercliff, as well as for
+examining the splendid and complicated lantern.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>As the carriage-road now pursues its mazy course through ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly hurl'd,</div>
+<div>The fragments of an earlier world,"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>We soon reach the locality of the SANDROCK CHALYBEATE SPRING: easily
+recognized by the low thatched roof of the Dispensary Cottage, that
+stands nearly on the brow of the cliff, as the water issues from a rock
+considerably below, inclosed in a plain piece of masonry. It has been
+proved by repeated analyses, that there is a larger proportion of iron
+and alumine in this than in any other mineral water yet discovered: and
+its medicinal properties are therefore decidedly indicated in the cure
+of those disorders arising from a relaxed fibre and languid circulation,
+such as indigestion, flatulency, nervous disorders, and debility from a
+long residence in hot climates.</p>
+
+<p>Great improvement has taken place in the neighbourhood of the Spring,
+within these few years, by <i>extensive draining</i>: thus preventing the
+land-soaks and springs during winter from settling into frequent pools,
+and thereby reducing the soil to the repulsive condition of a sterile
+waste of quagmire and sliding rocks, and in every succeeding summer
+drying up into a thousand dangerous holes and fissures. The ground in
+fact is now sufficiently firm to invite the builder to the erection of
+some good houses; and the surface exhibits a healthy herbage: roads have
+also been made to the shore. A large and handsome-looking house, called
+an "Italian Villa," has been erected on the east side of the
+Spring,&mdash;but if the architect ever copied such for his model, he
+certainly should have selected a site more appropriate, that would have
+justified his choice of style by its genial aspect, its greenwood
+shades, and the vegetative luxuriance of the soil.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The shore here is called <span class="smcap">Rocken-end Race</span>, being composed of
+vast confused heaps of rocky fragments precipitated in the course of
+ages from the cliffs above, and now stretching out into the sea for
+nearly a mile and a half.&mdash;Between this and Freshwater lie other
+formidable reefs, respectively named from the nearest villages,
+<span class="smcap">Atherfield</span>, <span class="smcap">Chilton</span>, and <span class="smcap">Brooke</span>; they are
+extremely dangerous: and previously to the erection of the new
+Light-house, occasioned frequent shipwrecks.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h3>BLACKGANG CHINE,</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_18lg.jpg" id="illu_18lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_18sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 457px; border: 0" alt="BLACKGANG CHINE, I.W." /><br />BLACKGANG CHINE, I.W. <i>Taken from below the new Bridge,
+which is a very general point of view, as the descent to the shore
+thence becomes more abrupt and difficult.</i></a></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Where hills with naked heads the tempests meet&mdash;</div>
+<div>Rocks at their sides, and torrents at their feet,"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Deservedly ranks among the most striking scenes in the island, it is the
+termination of the Undercliff, and of a character the very reverse of
+Shanklin; for all here is terrific grandeur&mdash;without a green spray or
+scarcely a tuft of verdure to soften its savage aspect. It differs also
+from that sylvan spot, in being much more lofty, abrupt, and irregular:
+though it does not penetrate the land so far. Both have their respective
+admirers: this for its awful sublimity&mdash;that for its romantic beauty.</p>
+
+<p>At the head of the Chine is a spacious Hotel, close to the road, and
+distinguished by the name of the place.</p>
+
+<p>The shelving sides of this gloomy chasm are proved to be little less
+than 500 feet from the beach in perpendicular height; they are in a
+constant state of decay&mdash;more or less considerable according to the
+degree of rain and frost during winter: for the same description of
+soil, namely, a mixture of clay and loose absorbent marle, interspersed
+with veins of gravel, predominate here as we have seen elsewhere in its
+neighbourhood. The only relief in fact to the dusky tint of the scene,
+is two or three horizontal strata of yellowish free-stone, which give it
+a step-like appearance. The most remarkable feature is a tremendous
+gloomy hollow or cave, scooped out of the cliffs on the sea-shore by the
+united action of the waves and the stream: the latter falls over a ledge
+of the stubborn rock at the top, 70 feet high: and after heavy floods,
+forms a noble cascade of one unbroken sheet: but like others of its
+class, in summer fails in its amount, and often degenerates into a
+noiseless dribble.</p>
+
+<p>Nowhere can we get a complete view of Blackgang except off on the water,
+which is not always practicable: certainly not in the very seasons when
+the whole appears with the greatest interest,&mdash;when there is a strong
+wind and tide setting in-shore, and the face of Nature is shrouded in
+deepening gloom, with perhaps some hapless vessel in danger of being
+wrecked,&mdash;it is then dressed in all the congenial horrors of savage
+sublimity.&mdash;No one, a stranger to the sea-coast, would imagine how
+awfully the surges lash the stony beach in tempestuous weather: the
+high-curling waves break with a deafening roar, and mounting the lofty
+cliffs in sheets of dazzling foam, are wafted in misty clouds half over
+the island&mdash;even to Newport, where the windows facing the south are
+occasionally dimmed with the saline vapors, almost to an incrustation.</p>
+
+<p>The visitor will of course endeavour to descend to the shore; but this
+is sometimes attended with considerable fatigue and difficulty, after
+wet weather, to those who are delicate and infirm. For this reason, we
+have taken our sketch from near the new bridge, to which the descent
+from the hotel is generally easy: and from which the visitor may gain
+such a view as will enable him to form a very good idea of the whole
+scene. The windings of the Chine commence a little below the Hotel,
+which (as already stated) stands at least 500 feet above the beach.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>From the proximity of several newly erected villas and
+lodging-houses, it ought here to be stated to the visitor, that the
+<i>true character</i> of the place is in consequence greatly injured:
+for the garish and obtrusive habitations of genteel life but ill
+accord with that solitary and impressive magnificence which
+constitutes the very interest&mdash;the sublimity and peculiarity of a
+silent and cheerless scene, such as formerly were the aspect and
+condition of Blackgang Chine and its immediate neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>"There has long been a tradition that Blackgang Chine was once the
+favorite retreat of a gang of pirates, and from that circumstance
+its name was derived.&mdash;Without disputing the fact of its having
+offered occasionally concealment and a safe depository to
+smugglers, or even pirates for a time,&mdash;it is equally, if not more
+probable, that it is indebted for its very expressive appellation
+to its sombre coloring, and the <i>step-like</i> appearance of the
+strata, if the word <i>gang</i> be admitted to have the same
+signification as it has in a ship."</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Between Blackgang and Freshwater are several other Chines on an inferior
+scale, partaking more or less of the same sterile aspect: such are
+Walpan, Whale, Compton, Cowleaze and the Shepherd's, Grange, Chilton,
+and Brooke: but though several of them are well entitled to notice, they
+are seldom visited, owing to their remoteness from the public roads.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  It should be observed however, that though they possess less
+scenic interest than those already described,&mdash;they embrace a
+portion of the island most attractive to the geologist, from the
+circumstance of the cliffs and shores abounding in the most
+beautiful specimens of fossil remains.&mdash;We would moreover call the
+attention of those visitors who may desire to examine into the
+agency which has produced the chines, to the two called <i>Cowleaze</i>
+and <i>the Shepherd's</i>&mdash;the latter of which has been formed within
+the last 40 years, in consequence, it is said, of a countryman in
+an idle moment turning the course of the small rivulet which had
+hitherto run through Cowleaze. They are situated about a mile from
+Brixton.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">St. CATHARINE's HILL</span></h3>
+
+<p>(In the steep side of which on the south is Blackgang Chine), is the
+highest in the island, or between 800 and 900 feet above the level of
+the sea. An ancient octagon tower stands at the top, built on the site
+of, or rather as an appendage to, a hermitage&mdash;originally endowed by a
+benevolent individual for the purpose of providing lights in dark and
+stormy nights:&mdash;there is also the shell of the old light-house mentioned
+at p. 79.</p>
+
+<p>The regular carriage-road between Chale and Niton used to be over this
+down previous to the year 1838: and we in some measure regret (although
+<i>celerity</i> in travelling be now the order of the day), that it is
+superseded by the road then made to Blackgang: to the admirers of
+illimitable prospect it afforded a rich treat, "for language is scarcely
+adequate to describe the various beauties which present themselves from
+this elevated spot."</p>
+
+<p>On the northern extremity of St. Catharine's down is an elegant and most
+conspicuous object (72 feet high,) called the ALEXANDRIAN PILLAR: the
+purpose of its erection is perhaps best told by the inscription itself:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"<i>In commemoration of the visit of his Imperial Majesty Alexander
+I, Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain in the year
+1814&mdash;and in remembrance of the many happy years' residence in his
+dominions&mdash;this Pillar was erected by Michael Hoy.</i>"</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>On the slope is a seat called the MEDINA HERMITAGE (formerly the
+summer-residence of the gentleman named on the pillar): the house is
+characterized by simplicity and neatness: and its greatest ornament is a
+large verandah, having a broad <i>trellis</i> roof, beautifully intertwined
+with the sweetest varieties of climbing plants. From its very elevated
+situation, it commands a rich display of the country from Niton to
+Newport.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>CHALE CHURCH</h3>
+
+<p>Must be passed in the regular tour, going to or returning from
+Blackgang; stands close to the road; and though simple in its
+architecture, has a venerable and rather picturesque
+appearance&mdash;especially its square tower, which proves a great relief to
+the flatness of the view looking westward to the Freshwater cliffs:
+dates its erection in the 12th century; and exposed as it is to the rage
+of the elements, affords an instance of the stability which
+characterizes the structures of antiquity.</p>
+
+<p>The cemetery of Chale incloses many a shipwrecked mariner&mdash;no doubt some
+hundreds who were deposited, in the course of ages, without any memento
+whatever: but the public are now more interested, from the
+circumstance of the unfortunate sufferers in the wreck of the ship
+Clarendon being here interred,&mdash;to whose memory tombstones are erected,
+on which the date and other particulars of their melancholy fate are
+recorded.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><h3>WRECKS ON THE SOUTHERN COAST.</h3>
+
+<p>We have already stated how dangerous this part of the coast is
+during a south or south-west wind, to vessels unmanageable in a
+storm: and previously to the erection of the new Light-house, few
+winters passed without two or more wrecks occurring between Niton
+and Freshwater Bay. In former times, the <i>waifs</i>, or possession of
+such remains of ships or their cargoes as were washed ashore, seems
+to have been a valued right of this, as well as some other manors
+in the Isle of Wight; and many tales have been told of the
+inhumanity of the wreckers who in those days are said to have
+resided in the neighbourhood,&mdash;which, if true, are strongly
+contrasted by the ready zeal and liberality which the present
+inhabitants display in assisting those unfortunates whom the
+furious elements so often cast on this fatal shore.</p>
+
+<p>Of the numerous vessels which have been lost here in our own time,
+the largest was perhaps the <i>Carn-brea Castle</i> East Indiaman, in
+July 1829: she left Spithead at nine o'clock in the morning, and
+about six hours afterwards struck on the rocks near Mottistone: the
+weather being fine, her crew and passengers easily reached the
+shore. The size of the ship, and the remarkable circumstances under
+which she was lost, attracted a considerable number of visitors to
+the spot,&mdash;as she was not immediately broken up, though all hopes
+of removing her were soon abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>A far more disastrous wreck was that of the CLARENDON, a West India
+trader of 350 tons, which took place on the 11th of October, 1836:
+and will be remembered with increased interest, as the acknowledged
+fact of her loss being mainly attributable to the want of some
+warning beacon on the land, led almost directly to the erection of
+the splendid light-house at Niton. She had 11 passengers, male and
+female, and 17 seamen on board: her cargo consisted of sugar, rum,
+molasses, and turtle; she was heavily laden, and had been about six
+weeks on her voyage. The preceding evening was fine, and the breeze
+favorable, and the passengers retired to rest in fancied security,
+with the pleasing hope of safely reaching their destination on the
+following day. After midnight the wind increased; but though the
+ship drove rapidly before it, no danger was perceived till about
+day-break,&mdash;when, already in the surf, there was no longer a
+possibility of escape. The crew immediately proceeded to set all
+sail the storm would permit, in hopes of weathering the point; but
+their gallant efforts could not long delay the fate of the doomed
+vessel, she continued to drift towards the beach, on which she
+struck a little before six o'clock, and within five minutes was
+totally demolished. It would be a useless attempt to describe the
+horrors of that short but fearful period: all that could be
+gathered from the statements of the survivors was, that she twice
+touched the ground lightly, forward, at which time all her people
+were assembled on the deck; and presently one mountain wave hurled
+her broadside on the beach with such stupendous force, that the
+huge hull at once parted into a thousand fragments! The frightful
+brevity of the whole catastrophe prevented any measures being taken
+for the relief of the passengers and crew, although the ship was
+scarcely twice her own length from the cliff; and all perished
+except the mate and two seamen, who were rescued by the courageous
+exertions of some countrymen who had hastened to the spot as soon
+as dawn disclosed the inevitable danger of the vessel.&mdash;For some
+hours afterwards a hideous spectacle was here presented,&mdash;the naked
+and mangled bodies of the unfortunate sufferers, with the remains
+of the vessel and cargo, were tossed about in dire confusion by the
+raging waves, or dashed again and again on the stony beach; but
+before the close of the day, most of the former had been drawn
+ashore, and the broken fragments of the wreck were strewed on the
+beach for several miles. Six of the passengers (an officer named
+Shore, his wife, and daughters,) were buried in Newport churchyard,
+where a monument has since been erected to their memory; and it is
+a strange fact that the premises which adjoin that cemetery on the
+western side, had been but a short time previously engaged for
+their reception by a near relative, who there anxiously awaited the
+ship's arrival. Most of the others (as already mentioned,) were
+interred at Chale.</p>
+
+<p>Subsequently, the wrecks on the island coast have been less
+numerous, and rarely accompanied by loss of life or any other
+circumstance of particular interest: the case of H.M. Steam-sloop
+SPHYNX, however, having excited so large a share of public
+attention, claims a brief notice. Returning from her first voyage
+to Africa, she neared the coast during a thick fog about six
+o'clock on the morning of Jan. 16, 1847: and by the force of her
+engines was driven over the outer ledge (off Brooke), and firmly
+fixed in the clay beds within. The suddenness of the accident
+caused great alarm amongst her crew and passengers (300 in number):
+and the startling discharges of her heavy artillery quickly aroused
+the inhabitants for miles round: but daylight and the ebbing tide
+enabled her people to reach land with no great
+difficulty,&mdash;although a boat, sent to her from another war-steamer,
+capsized with the loss of seven men. For nearly two months,
+repeated efforts were made to extricate the Sphynx from her awkward
+position: and after her masts, guns, and most of her stores and
+machinery had been removed, and the hull itself buoyed up by a vast
+number of empty casks, and some decked lighters (called camels),
+she was at length brought off and towed into Portsmouth harbour on
+the 3rd. of March. Her bottom had sustained considerable injury,
+though much less than was expected from her having lain so long in
+such a situation, and during several severe gales.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The VILLAGE OF CHALE lies at the foot of St. Catharine's Hill, and
+comprises a considerable number of scattered cottages: none of them
+however deserving a stranger's notice, except perhaps the Parsonage, and
+the Abbey-farm-house; the latter covered with the most luxuriant ivy.</p>
+
+<p>If the visitor be on his return to Newport, he will within three miles
+of it pass GATCOMBE, a small village, and a first rate seat: exhibiting
+altogether perhaps the most charming <i>inland</i> scenery in the Isle of
+Wight:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Sweet are its groves, and verdant are its fields."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The mansion is a large square edifice, extremely well-situated,&mdash;in
+front a fine lawn falls with an easy slope, shaded by many noble oaks
+and elms: and immediately behind rises a steep hill luxuriantly clothed
+with hanging plantations. At a short distance from the house is a small
+lake; and near the latter, the neat little parish-church, and the
+Parsonage, both beautifully embosomed in wood.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE ROAD TO FRESHWATER-GATE.</h3>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <i>From Chale to the celebrated Cliff's of Freshwater is about twelve
+miles; the first eight of which are through an agricultural district,
+presenting only so many agreeable pictures of rural life,&mdash;and of these
+the principal are</i> <span class="smcap">Shorwell</span>, <span class="smcap">Northcourt</span>, <i>and</i>
+<span class="smcap">Brixton</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"A simple scene! yet hence Brittannia sees</div>
+<div>Her solid grandeur rise."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<blockquote><p>The fact is, the greater part of the soil is so extremely fertile,
+as to be employed in tillage and meadow, almost to the exclusion of
+woods and coppice, which constitute the chief ornaments of a
+landscape. We have, however, nearly the whole of the journey such a
+charming view of the ocean, as to compensate for the deficiency of
+sylvan beauties.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>After passing a small church called <span class="smcap">Kingston</span>, posted on a
+knoll, and surrounded by a few trees which bespeak their bleak exposure,
+we reach ...</p>
+
+<h3>SHORWELL,</h3>
+
+<p>A considerable village, about four miles from Chale, and five from
+Newport; it stands charmingly sheltered in a curve of the downs with a
+southern aspect; has a pretty church; and boasts of the finest old
+mansion in the island, called NORTHCOURT, built in the reign of James
+I. This venerable pile has lately been thoroughly repaired: a necessary
+operation by the bye that has stripped it for a few years of its
+greatest ornament&mdash;the rich drapery of ivy which invested its lofty gray
+walls and pinnacles: hills, clothed with hanging woods and plantations,
+rise boldly around it; many of the oaks and pines, luxuriating in a
+fertile soil and genial climate, are uncommonly fine: the grounds too
+are embellished with a rustic temple, and a very elegant mausoleum to
+the memory of Miss Bull, the daughter of a former owner,&mdash;the whole
+scene indeed is replete with architectural and sylvan beauties. There
+are in the neighbourhood two other ancient manorial residences, named
+Westcourt and Woolverton, now converted into farm-houses: and the
+cottages of Shorwell are remarkable for their neatness and comfortable
+appearance, as well as for the abundant display of creepers and
+flowering shrubs with which most of them are adorned.</p>
+
+<p>Two miles further on we enter BRIXTON, a populous village in the heart
+of a rich tract of cultivation: is one mile from the shore, and screened
+from the north by a range of lofty downs. The Church is rather spacious,
+and not unpicturesque; many of the cottages are neat, some few furnished
+for lodgings: and there is a comfortable small inn. This place is
+commonly called Brison, and one clergyman names it Brightstone.</p>
+
+<p>MOTTISTONE succeeds: a pretty hamlet nearly shrouded in wood, with a
+very picturesque church. On an elevated part of the farm are the remains
+of some small druidical temple called <span class="smcap">Longstone</span>, which is a
+rude piece of rock of a quadrangular figure, evidently erected by art,
+and rears itself about twelve feet above the ground; near it another
+large stone lies partly buried in the earth, of not less than eight feet
+long.</p>
+
+<p>BROOK is the last village we pass till we reach Freshwater: much the
+same character as the others: the Mansion-house, which is surrounded
+with wood, being the only object to notice, besides the little church,
+which we shall presently pass, posted solitarily on an eminence near the
+foot of the down.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE WESTERN QUARTER OF THE ISLAND, DISTINGUISHED</h3>
+
+<h3>FOR ITS</h3>
+
+<h2>SUBLIME SCENERY.</h2>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>The Road over the Downs from Brooke to Freshwater-gate.</i></h3>
+
+<blockquote><p>We shall now leave the familiar scenes of cultivation and of
+village life for a time, to enjoy the charms of unbounded prospect,
+as we journey for four miles over a succession of pasturing downs,
+where in many parts our road will be upon a natural carpet of the
+finest turf.</p>
+
+<p>Tasteless indeed must be those who can travel over these lofty and
+<i>beautiful</i> downs, without experiencing the most lively
+gratification from the checquered and magnificent prospects which
+invite their contemplation on every side: but to enjoy the pleasure
+in perfection we must occasionally pause, to discriminate (by
+reference to a friend or a map,) some of the more remarkable
+features.&mdash;Looking to the westward, the high cliffs of Freshwater
+stretch away in a noble promontory of three miles, forming the
+foreground to the soft azure perspective of the coast of Dorset:
+but to the north, so diversified is the extensive landscape with
+towns and villages, hills, woods, forests, sea, and river, as to
+mock our most ardent wishes to convey even a faint idea of the
+grandeur of the composition.</p>
+
+<p>Another source of no inconsiderable pleasure, when traversing these
+beautiful downs,&mdash;soaring as it were in the higher regions&mdash;is
+feeling that we actually breathe the purest atmosphere, so
+exhilarating to the human frame. Nor is the reverse of this
+desirable clearness of the weather without its share of
+amusement&mdash;to witness the formation of clouds, as the vapors are
+drawn up from the sea, and gradually condensed; rolling by, and
+enveloping us in their misty volumes. It is true indeed, that these
+exhibitions are not without danger to the traveller, lest he
+unwarily approach too near the fatal precipice: but this
+circumstance imposing the necessity of caution, excites an
+<i>interest</i>&mdash;and interest is the very zest of adventure. [Footnote: Near the edge of the cliffs about half a mile eastward of
+Freshwater-gate, a small tablet has lately been erected, to
+commemorate the unfortunate fate of a youth who slipped over and
+perished on the rocks beneath.&mdash;Some years ago two successive
+keepers of the Needles Light-house lost their lives in a similar
+manner over the precipices on which that establishment is located.]</p>
+
+<p>In short, whether for the splendor of the prospects, the refreshing
+purity of the air, or the novelty of literally walking in the
+clouds, we esteem the journey over these downs, as pleasurable as
+any portion of the tour.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>We shall now suppose the Visitor to be descending the last down, and
+in a few minutes, walking on the beach&mdash;here to commence his
+examination of ...</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE FRESHWATER CLIFFS.</h3>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_19lg.jpg" id="illu_19lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_19sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 460px; border: 0" alt="FRESHWATER BAY, I.W." /><br />FRESHWATER BAY, I.W. <i>(The two remarkable isolated Rocks
+and Entrance to the principal Cavern.)</i></a></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Suspended cliffs, with hideous sway,</div>
+<div>Seem nodding o'er the caverns gray."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>Several romantic</i> <span class="smcap">Caverns</span> <i>near Freshwater-gate: the
+Needles</i> <span class="smcap">Light-house</span>&mdash;<i>and the wonderfully</i> <span class="smcap">colored
+Sands</span> <i>of Alum Bay, are accessible without taking boat: the
+celebrated</i> <span class="smcap">Needle Rocks</span> <i>are seen (though not to advantage,)
+from the down and beach: but the</i> <span class="smcap">Grand Arch</span>, <i>the</i>
+<span class="smcap">Wedge-Rock</span>, <i>and several deep</i> <span class="smcap">Caverns</span> <i>and other
+curiosities of Rock-scenery, can be viewed only by water, which is
+extremely desirable in calm weather.</i></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The white Cliffs of Albion</span> is so favorite a poetical
+designation of the English coast, that it is with some degree of pride
+we hail our "sea-girt isle" as surpassing in the magnificence and
+splendor of this characteristic, every other part of the kingdom; for
+even Shakspeare's cliff at Dover, immortalized as it is by the pen of
+the bard himself, is little more than half the elevation of some of the
+chalk precipices of the Isle of Wight,&mdash;which, at Freshwater, rise from
+the bosom of the blue ocean with a perpendicular face of the most
+dazzling whiteness, the sublime altitude of more than 600 feet!&mdash;being
+nearly one-half higher than the pinnacles either of St. Paul's or
+Salisbury Cathedrals.</p>
+
+<p>A stranger from the inland districts, who may never have seen a
+precipice upon a grander scale than is presented by the sides of some
+deep chalk-pit, would be at a loss to imagine wherein consisted the
+<span class="smcap">beauty</span> and the <span class="smcap">interest</span> of such seemingly monotonous
+scenes; especially when informed that they are indebted to no borrowed
+ornament from either tree or shrub: and indeed it would prove equally
+difficult on our part to furnish a comprehensive definition. One eminent
+writer enthusiastically eulogises their appearance as "<i>singularly
+elegant</i> when viewed at a proper distance; and with the Needle Rocks,
+constituting a whole that is scarcely to be equalled:"&mdash;another declares
+that "the most lofty and magnificent fabrics of Art, compared with
+these stupendous works of Nature, sink in idea to Lilliputian
+size:"&mdash;and a third, that "the towering precipices of Scratchell's Bay
+are of the most elegant forms;" and "the pearly hue of the chalk is
+beyond description by words, probably out of the power even of the
+pencil."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>As almost every visitor has a card of <i>all the local curiosities</i>
+presented to him by some of the boatmen of the place, it would be
+useless here to describe individually the several objects deserving
+personal observation: we shall therefore confine our notice to a few
+of the most prominent,&mdash;commencing at ...</p>
+
+<h3>FRESHWATER-GATE,</h3>
+
+<p>Remarkable for the brilliancy as well as beauty of the surrounding
+promontories, of which an enchanting view is presented as we descend
+from the downs. The outline of the precipices is here extremely bold,
+forming several charming little coves or bays, and penetrated at the
+base by numerous deep <span class="smcap">Caverns</span> of the most romantic formation,
+that are exceedingly interesting to visitors when explored. But what
+contributes most to the picturesque character of the scenery is the
+presence of several immense isolated rocks of grotesque shape, that rise
+from 30 to 60 feet above the sea. Two of these will particularly attract
+attention, namely, the <i>Arched</i>, and the <i>Deer-pound</i>, [Footnote: This
+name was given to the rock from the fact, it is said, of a deer having
+leaped on it from the main land, when closely pursued by the hounds of
+the late Lord Holmes, about 70 or 80 years ago: at which time the
+separation could have been but a few yards! Whatever credit may be
+attached to this anecdote by the reader, it at least serves to show the
+opinion which the older inhabitants entertain of the progressive waste
+of land at this part of the coast (the face of the cliffs being
+constantly exposed to the weather and undermining action of the sea);
+and we remember it was but a few years back when the top of this same
+rock was covered with a considerable patch of green sod.] they are the
+remains of the original cliff, but being composed of more stubborn and
+adhesive materials, have long resisted the lashing waves and warring
+elements, while the parent cliffs are constantly receding and forming a
+wider separation.</p>
+
+<p>Here are two respectable Hotels: the <i>Albion</i>, close to the beach; and
+<i>Plumbly's</i>, on the cliff: both of which offer to their guests the charm
+of hearing ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">&mdash;&mdash;"The restless waves that roar,</div>
+<div>And fling their foam against the rocky shore."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The CAVERN in Freshwater Bay was formerly an object of no little
+curiosity to those who had never seen any thing similar of a more
+striking character; but the romantic effect, and consequently interest
+of the scene has been greatly injured by the fall falling-in of the
+arched roof. Now, however, visitors can easily investigate other caverns
+of a similar nature at WATCOMBE BAY (to which a good road has been made
+from Plumbly's Hotel,) where there is also a pyramidical rock, curiously
+perforated at the base.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  A very common way of seeing these precipices is to go by water
+to Alum Bay, there land, walk up to the Light-house, and return by
+the beacon: or take boat at Alum Bay, and sail round the Needles or
+to Freshwater Bay, just as fancy may suggest. Some proceed on foot
+from Freshwater-gate to the Needles Light-house (about three
+miles), on the green sod, near the margin of the cliffs: other
+parties again go round by the carriage-road the whole distance in
+their vehicles. As, however, the grandest scenes can only be
+visited by boat, we shall best perform our duty as Cicerone by
+pointing them out as they appear in an aquatic excursion&mdash;that to
+parties generally affords a degree of elevated pleasure to which
+nothing else in the island can bear any comparison. Yet should the
+weather be too rough for this to be enjoyed, the visit to
+Freshwater may prove not the less interesting: since it is
+impossible for any spectacle to exceed in sublimity that which is
+displayed when a storm is raging around the majestic cliffs and
+vast detached rocks that here encounter the winds and waves of the
+British Channel:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Down bursts the gale&mdash;the surges sweep,</div>
+<div>Like gathering hosts, against the steep,</div>
+<div>Sheeting, with clouds of snowy spray,</div>
+<div>Its lofty forehead, old and gray.</div>
+<div>With sudden shriek and cowering wing,</div>
+<div>To the wild cliff the sea-birds spring;</div>
+<div>Careering o'er the darken'd heaven,</div>
+<div>The clouds in warring heaps are driven;</div>
+<div>And crested high with lawny foam,</div>
+<div>Rushes the mighty billow home."</div>
+</div></div>
+</blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>(Another Hotel is situated on the north side of the down, within sight
+of the Needles, by whose name it is distinguished.)</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_20lg.jpg" id="illu_20lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_20sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 439px; border: 0" alt="WATCOMBE BAY" /><br />WATCOMBE BAY <i>FRESHWATER ISLE OF WIGHT.</i></a></p>
+
+<p>From Watcombe Bay the precipices continue to increase in height till
+they reach their greatest elevation (617 feet) at HIGH-DOWN, on which
+the beacon is erected: they are however less perpendicular here than we
+shall presently find them; and the more sloping portions are covered by
+extensive patches of turf, samphire, &amp;c., which vary the pure white of
+the upright masses, though perhaps the lofty appearance of the whole is
+thereby rather diminished, at least to a spectator at their base.
+Amongst the most remarkable objects in this part of the range are
+<span class="smcap">Neptune's Cave</span>, and <span class="smcap">Lord Holmes's Parlour</span>:&mdash;the
+latter, a cavern of considerable height and breadth, derives its name
+from the nobleman, whose name it bears, having occasionally enjoyed a
+repast with his friends in the briny coolness of its shade, at least so
+tradition tells us: it can be easily entered by boat in calm weather:
+and when viewed from beneath its rough vaulted roof, has certainly a
+very romantic appearance.</p>
+
+<p>A little further on is the WEDGE-ROCK, a most singular result of
+accident; being a piece of rock about twelve feet long by six or eight
+wide, exactly the shape of a wedge, resting between the main cliff and a
+large mass of detached chalk, just as if fixed there by some gigantic
+hand to effect the separation. It is often practicable to land here, and
+it is worth while on the part of the young and active, were it only to
+be satisfied how extremely deceptive is the appearance of the rocks and
+broken green ledges, as to their size and extent of surface,&mdash;for few
+would suppose (in passing by,) that the piece near the Wedge-rock
+contains upwards of an acre of ground.&mdash;The pyramidical mass connected
+with the Wedge is about fifty feet high, and a hundred long at the base.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Our friends will remember (as has been before said,) that we leave
+the history of many curious rocks and caverns to be given by the
+local watermen; for personal examination will invest a scene or
+object with a degree of interest which cannot be felt by the
+reader, who may have no expectation of ever seeing them.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Passing the <span class="smcap">Old Pepper-rock</span>, a picturesque detached mass at the
+foot of the chalk&mdash;we find ourselves under the noble promontory of
+MAIN-BENCH, where the precipices again rise to upwards, of six hundred
+feet in height: and being nearly perpendicular, present a truly sublime
+aspect, viewed either from above or below: while the constant washing of
+the waves at the lower part, by removing the looser particles of chalk,
+gives it much the appearance of having been built with vast blocks of
+masonry. As the water is deep even close to the cliff, and beautifully
+transparent in calm weather, the reflection on its surface of the crags
+above, and the sunken rocks and marine plants which appear beneath, must
+add considerably to the interest of our aquatic excursion. Main-bench
+terminates in a bold bluff or projecting angle called <span class="smcap">Sun
+Corner</span>; rounding which, we enter ...</p>
+
+<p>SCRATCHELL'S BAY, universally considered by visitors as the most
+memorable spot on the island coast, alike for the grandeur, beauty, and
+variety of its scenery. The dazzling whiteness of the chalk is here
+relieved by thin curving beds of dark flint, which regularly divide it
+into parallel strata of eight or ten feet thickness; the towering
+precipices are of the most picturesque shapes; and the Needle Rocks form
+an inimitable termination to the scene. Just within the bay is the
+<span class="smcap">Needles Cave</span>, the deepest along the whole range, as it
+penetrates the chalk 300 feet: but the <i>unique</i> feature which above all
+the rest claims attention is the niche-like recess in the face of the
+cliff, appropriately designated ...</p>
+
+<h3>THE GRAND ARCH;</h3>
+
+<p>It indicates little that is remarkable at a distance; but a truly
+sublime effect is produced when the stranger is placed under its awful
+roof with his back against the concave chalk: for he then sees above him
+a magnificent Arch two hundred feet in height and overhanging the beach
+at least one hundred and eighty!&mdash;yet so true, nay, even elegant is the
+sweep, that it rather resembles the stupendous work of Art, than the
+casual production of Nature. To form an idea of the sublimity of the
+scene, the reader should task his memory with the dimensions of some of
+the proudest architectural monuments in Great Britain: and the
+comparison would immediately remove all doubt, that a sight of the Arch
+itself would amply repay the trouble of a visit to Freshwater.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/illu_21lg.jpg" id="illu_21lg.jpg"><img src="images/illu_21sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 453px; border: 0" alt="SCRATCHELL'S BAY" /><br /> SCRATCHELL'S BAY, <i>And the NEEDLE ROCKS, as viewed from a
+bold Bluff called Sun Corner, being the termination of the Freshwater
+Cliffs.&mdash;Isle if Wight.</i></a></p>
+
+<p>Scratchell's Bay is about half-a-mile in breadth; being formed by Sun
+Corner and the Grand Arch on the eastern side, and on the west by the</p>
+
+<h3>NEEDLE ROCKS,</h3>
+
+<p>Which stretch out into the sea a considerable distance: they are remains
+of the original cliff, and forcibly illustrate the destructive power of
+the ocean's stormy winds and waves, which in successive ages have
+removed so vast a quantity of the adjacent chalk. Nor are their ravages
+at all diminished at the present time: for it is only within the last
+few years that the smallest rock has been completely insulated; while
+another immense mass of the cliff is evidently separating by degrees,
+and will probably become ere long entirely detached, forming a
+magnificent pyramid two or three hundred feet high. It is impossible to
+convey by verbal description a correct idea of these celebrated rocks:
+for in passing round or through them, they assume a different shape
+almost every dozen yards; sometimes appearing like a continuation of the
+main promontory,&mdash;sometimes as one or more lofty acuminated
+pyramids,&mdash;or again we see the different masses extending in nearly a
+straight line, between which we catch a distant view of Christchurch and
+other objects on the opposite coast. The name (inappropriate to their
+present form,) was derived from a spiry rock, 120 feet high and very
+slender, which fell in the year 1764, having been nearly worn through by
+the incessant action of the tides: its base however is still visible at
+low water.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>The <i>Pomone</i>, a fifty-gun frigate, was wrecked on the most western
+of these rocks, on June 11th, 1811, when returning home after an
+absence of three years; but owing to the fineness of the weather,
+the crew and passengers, including some Persian princes, reached
+the shore in safety; and most of her guns and stores were removed
+before she went to pieces. "The vessel," says Mr. Webster,
+"afforded me a scale by which to judge of the size of the Needles,
+and I was surprized to find that the hull of the frigate did not
+reach one-fourth of their height." The entrance to the Solent
+Channel "through the Needles" was always considered hazardous for
+ships of great burthen, not only on account of those rocks, but
+also of the immense banks of pebbles or "Shingles" that lie to the
+westward: recent surveys have however ascertained that the channel
+has sufficient width and depth for the safe passage of the largest
+ships of war.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>ALUM BAY.</h3>
+
+<p>The brilliant and novel display of rock scenery which this spot affords,
+and its being easily accessible either by water or land (for a road
+leads to it from the north side of the down), cause it to be universally
+visited by strangers who extend their tour to this quarter of the
+island. It is bounded on the south by the Needles and the snowy
+precipices of which they once formed part: but its greatest celebrity is
+owing to the wonderful diversity and brightness in the cliffs on the
+opposite side, which are composed of sand, clay, and ochreous earths,
+disposed in alternate <i>vertical</i> strata: and as the torrents of winter
+carry away vast masses of the soil, forming numerous deep ravines&mdash;an
+endless variety of the most beautiful peaks and romantic forms are thus
+produced. The colored strata vary in thickness from a sheet of paper to
+several yards; are now purely white, black, red, or yellow; then brown,
+blueish, or dull green,&mdash;alternating in a surprizing manner with each
+other, or blending into every hue: and many of the tints so vivid, yet
+so delicate, that they are justly compared to the variegations of a
+tulip, or to the shades of silk. "Alum Bay," says an eminent geologist,
+"is so extraordinary a place, that I am unable to explain in adequate
+terms, the surprize I felt on first seeing it. The scenery is indeed of
+a species unique in this country: and nothing that I had previously seen
+bore the least resemblance to it." This spot owes its name to the fact
+of alum having been occasionally found on its shores.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>And now, having pointed out the most remarkable features in the cliffs,
+it only remains to notice THE LIGHT-HOUSE, which is a gratifying object
+of curiosity to persons unacquainted with the nature of such an
+establishment, it stands near the extremity of the down, and commands a
+prospect of great extent and beauty, particularly of the unrivaled
+scenery of Alum Bay. The Needles are seen to most advantage from the
+water: but when this has not been enjoyed, the party should cautiously
+approach within a few yards of the precipice, "and to those whose nerves
+are proof against the horrors of the position, the new into the bays
+beneath, and of the cliffs and Needle Rocks, is extremely sublime. The
+agitation and sound of the waves below are hardly perceived, and it is
+scarcely possible to imagine that the quiet expanse which now seems
+stretched in boundless repose under the eye, is the same turbulent
+element which had but lately been seen bursting in clouds of foam, and
+thundering on its rocky shore.&mdash;In hard blowing weather, the fury of the
+wind on this promontory is scarcely credible. Very large flints and
+fragments of chalk are blown from the cliffs, so as to endanger the
+windows of the light-house; and for many days in succession, it is
+scarcely possible to open the door."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p>The precipices of Freshwater, like those at Bembridge, are
+frequented at periodical seasons by prodigious flights of sea-fowl
+of various kinds. The birds are taken by the country-people at the
+hazard of their lives; they descend by means of a stout rope which
+turns round a crow-bar firmly fixed in the ground above; one end of
+the rope being fastened about their body, and the other end held in
+their hands, by which they lower and raise themselves from ledge to
+ledge of the horrid precipice. The aquatic fowl furnish most
+amusing sport to numberless shooting-parties during the season. The
+principal species are ... puffins, gulls, cormorants, Cornish
+choughs, the eider duck, auks, divers, guillemots, razor-bills,
+widgeons, willocks, daws, starlings, and pigeons. Their
+breeding-season is in the months of May, June, and July, and
+towards the end of August the greater part of them migrate with
+their new generations. Their flesh is too rank and fishy to be
+eaten, and is used only for baiting crab and lobster pots; the
+feathers are valuable, and the eggs are bought chiefly by visitors
+for curiosity.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE ROADS TO YARMOUTH, NEWPORT, &amp;c.</h3>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" />  <i>Having visited the western extremity of the Island, we
+return&mdash;either by</i> <span class="smcap">Calbourne</span> <i>to Newport, which is the nearest;
+or round by</i> <span class="smcap">Yarmouth</span>, <i>this being perhaps the less monotonous
+road of the two.</i></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The tourist, on leaving the magnificent scenes of the western coast, can
+hardly expect to see many spots in the remainder of his journey, capable
+of engaging his attention. He may still however enjoy some very charming
+prospects, particularly in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth, whither we
+shall now suppose him to shape his course.</p>
+
+<p>We shall pass two seats: <span class="smcap">Farringford</span>, on the north side of the
+down, surrounded by flourishing plantations; and about a mile and a half
+further, the fine old manor-house of <span class="smcap">Afton</span>.</p>
+
+<p>THE VILLAGE OF FRESHWATER is prettily interspersed with wood; but except
+the church (whose front is more picturesque than most in the island),
+has nothing to notice;&mdash;unless it should fortunately happen to be
+high-tide at the time of our passing, and then the <span class="smcap">River Yar</span>
+will have a lovely effect&mdash;winding between gently rising banks feathered
+with grove and copse, shrouding here a mansion, and there a cottage;
+while pleasure-boats and an unusual number of swans are seen gliding and
+sporting on its silver bosom.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Passing over a neat bridge, and through the fertile parish of
+<span class="smcap">Thorley</span>, whose church is the plainest in the island, we reach</p>
+
+<h3>YARMOUTH,</h3>
+
+<p>Standing opposite Lymington, and once a place of considerable
+importance, having obtained a charter of franchises in the reign of
+Henry II: it is very clean and open,&mdash;and being situated in the
+neighbourhood of the most interesting coast scenery, is upon the whole
+an agreeable place, particularly for gentlemen partial to marine
+pleasures. Its chief support is derived from the shipping that anchor in
+its excellent roadsted, and the passengers to and from Lymington; there
+are three inns&mdash;the principal one (the George,) is a large ancient
+building, formerly the Governor's house, where King Charles II was
+entertained by Sir Rt. Holmes on his paying the island a visit in
+1667.&mdash;The Church has recently received the ornament of a new tower, and
+the interior boasts a good statue of the above-named Sir Robert. The
+Castle (as it is called), is a heavy, plain mass of building,
+constructed in the reign of Henry VIII to protect this entrance to the
+Solent Channel.</p>
+
+<p>The village of NORTON is on the opposite side of the river, where there
+are several very respectable villas,&mdash;so sheltered by groves and
+shrubberies, that the whole neighbourhood presents the delightful
+appearance of a bold foreland completely shrouded in wood, even to the
+water's edge.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Opposite <i>Carey's Sconce</i>, half a mile west of Norton, is HURST
+CASTLE, built at the extremity of a long strip of shingly land
+stretching out from the Hampshire coast, which here contracts the
+width of the Solent Channel to less than a mile. Close by are two
+Light-houses, erected for the purpose of assisting ships to clear
+the passage through the Needles.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Four miles from Yarmouth we pass through SHALFLEET, a clean and populous
+village: the Church is next the road, of a heavy construction,&mdash;yet
+affording a good subject for a sketch. Northward is NEWTOWN, a very
+ancient borough; which was a populous place in the time of Richard II
+(when it was burned by the French, but soon afterwards rebuilt), and
+though now reduced to a few humble cottages, the course of its streets
+may yet be traced. It has a new church, of a neat design; and is noted
+for its extensive salterns, and convenient haven.&mdash;Previously to the
+passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Yarmouth and Newtown each returned
+two members to parliament.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>The Road by Calbourne and Carisbrooke.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The direct road from Freshwater-gate to Newport runs for the first three
+or four miles at the northern foot of the range of downs described at p.
+89; presenting no object worthy of separate remark till we reach
+CALBOURNE, a considerable village, having a decent small inn. The pretty
+situation of its neat little Church and Parsonage,&mdash;the handsome mansion
+and luxuriant plantations of a first-rate seat called WESTOVER, close
+by,&mdash;with a small stream running through the grounds and in front of the
+neighbouring cottages,&mdash;altogether produce a very pleasing scene ...</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Where sweet simplicity resides, which Grace</div>
+<div>And Beauty call their own."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Two miles further we pass SWAINSTON, another principal seat: the mansion
+lies below the road, surrounded by trees; a copious stream, well stored
+with fish, runs through the gardens and plantations, which are extensive
+and judiciously laid-out; and the prospect-temple which crowns the hill
+on the right is a very conspicuous object. From hence the road is on
+the slope of a series of hills, often picturesquely shrouded in groves
+and hanging woods; while in the more open parts some extensive views are
+presented of the north side of the island, the sea, and the opposite
+coast of Hampshire; but the prospect which is opened as we descend into
+Carisbrooke is particularly grand: the village makes an admirable
+foreground, backed by lofty hills,&mdash;on the left we see the town of
+Newport and its adjoining hamlets, with E. Cowes Park, &amp;c. in the
+distance,&mdash;and on the right,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"High o'er the pines, that with their dark'ning shade</div>
+<div class="i2">Surround yon craggy bank, <span class="smcap">the Castle</span> rears</div>
+<div>Its crumbling turrets: still its towering head</div>
+<div class="i2">A warlike mien, a sullen grandeur wears!"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><a name="CONSPICUOUS" id="CONSPICUOUS"></a>LANDMARKS AND OTHER CONSPICUOUS OBJECTS</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Erected on the Hills.</i></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>The fact of so many of the hills and downs being crowned with some
+far-seen object, such as a light-house, obelisk, or telegraph, must be a
+source of considerable interest to a traveller in the Isle of Wight, not
+only by their often giving an identity and attraction to many of those
+broad features of scenery which would otherwise be comparatively tame
+and monotonous, but also by enabling him to determine the bearings and
+situation of places in their vicinity.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>We shall here name a few of the most conspicuous of these objects,
+nearly in the order pursued in the preceding description of the
+Tour of the Island:&mdash;most of them being visible from the
+neighbourhood of Newport, which, as we have before stated, occupies
+a central position. We shall therefore commence with Carisbrooke
+Castle.</p>
+
+<p>At West Cowes&mdash;the Church-tower, and Windmills. At East
+Cowes&mdash;Towers of Osborne, Norris, and East Cowes Castle. At
+Wootton&mdash;the Prospect-tower of Fernhill. Southward of Ryde&mdash;a large
+Windmill. On Ashey Down&mdash;the Sea-mark. At Bembridge&mdash;Mill on the
+Down. Godshill&mdash;the Church: behind which, on Appuldurcombe Down, is
+an Obelisk and private Signal-station. On Shanklin Down&mdash;Cooke's
+Castle. St. Catharine's Down&mdash;ancient Tower, and old Light-house;
+on the sea-cliffs, the new Light-house; on the northern extremity
+of the down, the Alexandrian Pillar. Freshwater Downs&mdash;Light-house,
+and Beacon.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><a name="TOURS" id="TOURS"></a>TOURS OF THE ISLAND.</h3>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p>Some years ago it was customary for the then limited number of
+Post-masters to adopt a regular three-days' Tour of the island,
+dividing it into the North-eastern, the Southern, and the
+North-western; differing but very little except as to the <i>order</i>
+of the days' excursion. Not so now&mdash;for a hundred plans would
+hardly describe all "the Tours" recommended by the different
+inn-keepers and numerous other letters-out of vehicles for
+pleasure-parties; to say nothing of the wide difference between the
+visitors themselves, as regards the <i>Time</i> allowed.&mdash;We have
+anticipated, we hope, every question on the subject, by the
+arrangement in the preceding pages: but still it may be
+satisfactory to some of our readers, to see the most generally
+adopted Routes. The reader will perceive that <i>Appuldurcombe</i> is
+frequently left as the object of a separate day's trip.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>CONTINUED TOUR FROM RYDE.</h3>
+
+<table  border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='Continued tour from Ryde'>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>FIRST DAY</td>
+    <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td><i>(Second day continued.)</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td align='right'>MILES.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>MILES.</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Brixton,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. John's: St. Clare, &amp;c.,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Mottistone,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>The Priory,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Brooke,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Helen's Green,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Freshwater-gate,</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Bembridge (crossing ferry),</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Needles Light-house,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Yaverland,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Alum Bay,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sandown Fort and Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Sleep at Fr. gate or A. Bay.</td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Shanklin Chine and Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>20&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Luccombe Chine,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>THIRD DAY</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>East End,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Yarmouth,</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Bonchurch&mdash;Ventnor,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Calbourne and Westover,</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Steephill Castle,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Swainston,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Lawrence,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Carisbrooke Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Niton,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Newport,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sleep here, or at Blackgang.</td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Parkhurst Prison,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>23&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>West Cowes,</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>SECOND DAY</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>East Cowes (crossing ferry),</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Catharine's Light-house,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Whippingham Church,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sandrock Spring,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Wootton-bridge,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Blackgang Chine,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Quarr Abbey,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Chale,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Ryde,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Kingston,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Shorwell and Northcourt,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>31&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><i>Tour from Ryde, in which Parties sleep but one Night in the Country.</i></h3>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">First Day</span>: St. Helen's 4 miles, Bembridge 1, Yaverland and
+Sandown 5, Shanklin 3, Luccombe and East End 2, Bonchurch and Ventnor
+2, Wroxall 2, Newchurch 4, Ryde 6&mdash;total 29 miles, or by Brading 26.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Second Day</span>: Wootton 3&frac12;, Arreton 4, Godshill and
+Appuldurcombe 5, Steephill 3, St. Lawrence 1, Niton 2&frac12;, Arreton 7,
+Wootton 4, Ryde 3&frac12;&mdash;total 33&frac12; miles.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Third Day</span>: Through Wootton to Newport 7, Carisbrooke 1,
+Shorwell 4, Brixton 2, Mottistone 2, Brooke 1, Freshwater-gate 4,
+Needles-point 3&frac12;, Alum Bay 1,&mdash;total 25&frac12; miles. Sleep at Fr. gate
+or Alum Bay.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Fourth Day</span>: Yarmouth 6, Shalfleet 4, Barracks,
+&amp;c. 5&frac12;, West Cowes, 4, East Cowes 0&frac12;, Whippingham 2, Wootton 3,
+Ryde 3&frac12;&mdash;total 28&frac12; miles.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>GENERAL TOUR FROM COWES.</h3>
+
+<table  border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='General tour from Cowes'>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>FIRST DAY</td>
+    <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td><i>(Second day continued.)</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>House of Industry, &amp;c.</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Steephill Castle,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Newport,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Ventnor, and Bonchurch,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Carisbrooke Castle,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>East End,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Swainston, on the right,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Luccombe Chine,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Calbourne and Westover,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Shanklin Chine and Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Yarmouth,</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Sleep here, or at Ventnor</td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Alum Bay,</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>24&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>The Needles Light-house,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>THIRD DAY</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Freshwater-gate,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Sandown Fort and Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sleep here, or at Alum Bay.</td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Yaverland Church, &amp;c.</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>28&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Bembridge.&mdash;Cross ferry,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>SECOND DAY</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>St. Helen's Green,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Brooke&mdash;Mottistone,</td>
+    <td align='right'>5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>The Priory, on the right,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Brixton,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>St. Clare&mdash;St. John's,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Shorwell and Northcourt,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Ryde,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Chale and Blackgang Chine,</td>
+    <td align='right'>5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Wootton-bridge&mdash;Fernhill,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sandrock Spring,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Whippingham Church,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Catharine's Light-house,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>East Cowes,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Niton Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Lawrence Church, &amp;c.</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>21&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>TOURS FROM NEWPORT.</h3>
+
+<p class='center'>NORTH-EASTERN TOUR</p>
+
+<table  border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='North-eastern tour'>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Fernhill&mdash;Wootton-bridge,&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+    <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td>Yaverland Church, &amp;c.</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Quarr Abbey,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Sandown Fort and Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Ryde,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Brading Down,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. John's&mdash;St. Clare,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Ashey Sea-mark,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>The Priory,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Down-end,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Helen's Green,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Newport,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Cross ferry to Bembridge,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>27&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<table  border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='Southern and Western tours'>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>SOUTHERN TOUR.</td>
+    <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td colspan='2' align='center'>WESTERN TOUR.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Arreton Church,</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Carisbrooke,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Shanklin,</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Shorwell and Northcourt,&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Luccombe&mdash;East End,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Brixton,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Bonchurch and Ventnor,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Mottistone,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Steephill Castle,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Brooke,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Lawrence,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Freshwater-gate,</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Niton,</td>
+    <td align='right'>2&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Needles Light-house,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Catharine's Light-house,&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Alum Bay,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sandrock Spring,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Yarmouth,</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Blackgang Chine,</td>
+    <td align='right'>0&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Calbourne and Westover,</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Chale,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Swainston,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Gatcombe,</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&frac12;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Carisbrooke Village,</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Newport,</td>
+    <td align='right'>4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Newport,</td>
+    <td align='right'>1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>(Or return by Rookley.)</td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>(Or return by Shalfleet.)</td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>29&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>36&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>A VOYAGE ROUND THE ISLAND</h3>
+
+<p>If the weather be favorable, will prove very interesting, and indeed be
+necessary to enable us to form a just estimate of the local attractions,
+since many of the scenes we have described are seen to most advantage
+from the water. Steamers perform the trip two or three times a-week
+during the season (usually in about eight hours): and sailing-craft from
+Ryde and Cowes are often engaged by parties for the same purpose.</p>
+
+<p>If we sail to the eastward on leaving Cowes Harbour, the first objects
+demanding our attention are Norris Castle and the royal Palace of
+Osborne, with their extensive lawns sweeping to the shore, shaded by
+numerous groups of noble trees. After passing the Creeks of King's Quay
+and Wootton, we have a partial sight of Binstead: and a most
+comprehensive view of the fashionable town of Ryde, just as we leave the
+Pier. Hence to St. Helen's the coast forms several beautiful bays, lined
+with gentlemen's seats and villas, hamlets, and luxuriant woods.</p>
+
+<p>Brading Haven, with the adjacent villages of Bembridge, St. Helen's, and
+Brading,&mdash;the whole encompassed by a semi-circular range of lofty
+hills&mdash;forms a very agreeable picture, especially at the time of high
+water. Our readers will have no difficulty in recognising the landmark
+of St. Helen's tower on the beach, and that on Ashey Down, about four
+miles inland.</p>
+
+<p>Two miles further are the lofty Culver Cliffs, forming the north side of
+Sandown Bay, on whose shores stand the village and fort of the same
+name. At the southern extremity of this extensive bay rise the dark
+precipices of Dunnose, penetrated by the Chines of Shanklin and
+Luccombe. Near the latter commences the celebrated tract called the
+Undercliff, whose varied and unique charms are nowhere so advantageously
+seen as from the water, "whence it rises like a series of gigantic steps
+that seem to lead from the lofty cliffs on the shore, to the summit of
+the grand perpendicular wall" that bounds it on the land-side.&mdash;East
+End, the lovely village of Bonchurch, the fast-increasing town of
+Ventnor, and the stately castle of Steephill, are all fully presented to
+our view: and less distinctly through the groves in which they are for
+the most part embosomed, the villas of St. Lawrence, Old Park, Mirables,
+&amp;c. Beyond the pretty little cove of Puckaster we see part of Niton
+village; and close to the shore, the gigantic tower of the Light-house.
+A mile further is the Sandrock Spring, in the midst of a wild tract,
+that terminates in the gloomy ravine called Blackgang Chine, backed by
+the tower-crowned eminence of St. Catharine's Hill.</p>
+
+<p>Hence to Compton Bay the coast is dreary and comparatively monotonous;
+but we have a tolerable view of some of the smaller chines, and also of
+the fine range of downs that stretch from the centre of the island to
+its western extremity. Almost the whole extent of Freshwater Cliffs
+meets the eye at once: but there is no great difficulty in recognizing
+the most noted rocks, caves, &amp;c. as we pass along. The various forms
+which are exhibited by those huge masses of chalk the Needles, as we
+approach and leave them, in connection with the beautiful precipices of
+Scratchell's Bay, form perhaps the most interesting circumstance of our
+voyage: the light-house seems placed on the very brink of the precipice:
+and the brilliant scenery of Alum Bay will appear to advantage,
+especially if it be a sunny afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond this the coast consists of steep broken slopes and earthy cliffs,
+some of them of considerable altitude, but presents no object of
+particular interest till we near the river Yar, with its adjacent town
+and villas: Newtown Creek opens about three miles further on. West
+Cowes, as we approach it from Thorness Bay, has a beautiful aspect,
+numerous genteel villas and first-rate lodging-houses covering the shore
+for nearly a mile: and the ever-amusing scene of Cowes harbour will form
+a delightful termination to our voyage.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>The Passage and Conveyance.</h3>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class='center'>JUNE 1, 1849.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>BY STEAM-PACKETS.</h3>
+
+<blockquote><p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>Strangers are particularly requested to attend to the following
+recommendation.</i>&mdash;We have always made it a point to delay the
+publication of our Guides to as late a period as we well could
+(often to a degree of inconvenience), in order that our readers may
+be furnished with an accurate statement of the precise time of the
+several passage-vessels starting to or from the island: but this,
+instead of an advantage, often proved a disappointment: for perhaps
+a change of hours unexpectedly took place within a week or
+fortnight afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the
+time of the railways, or from some motive on the part of one or
+other of the steam-packet companies. We therefore particularly
+advise strangers to make inquiry at the local inns, on board the
+packets, or at the railway or booking offices, in all cases where
+it is of important consequence to know exactly to a minute.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<p class='center'><i>Between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde, &amp; Portsmouth.</i></p>
+
+<table  border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='Steam packets between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde and Portsmouth'>
+  <tr>
+    <td>FROM</td>
+    <td align='center'>MORN.</td>
+    <td align='center'>AFT.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>South'n to Cowes at.</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;&nbsp; 8.40&nbsp; 10.40&mdash;</td>
+    <td>1&frac34;&nbsp; 4.40&nbsp; 7</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align='right'>Ryde and Portsmo.</td>
+    <td align='right'>8.40&nbsp; 10.40&mdash;</td>
+    <td>1&frac34;&nbsp; 4.40</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Portsmouth to Cowes</td>
+    <td align='right'>8.40&nbsp; 10&mdash;</td>
+    <td>2&nbsp; 4&frac12;&nbsp; 6&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align='right'>Southampton</td>
+    <td align='right'>8.40&nbsp; 10&mdash;</td>
+    <td>2&nbsp; 4&frac12;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Ryde to Cowes</td>
+    <td align='right'>9&frac14;&nbsp; 10&frac12;&mdash;</td>
+    <td>2&frac12;&nbsp; 5&nbsp; 7</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align='right'>Southampton</td>
+    <td align='right'>9&frac14;&nbsp; 10&frac12;&mdash;</td>
+    <td>2&frac12;&nbsp; 5</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Cowes to Ryde</td>
+    <td align='right'>10&nbsp; 12&mdash;</td>
+    <td>3&frac12;&nbsp; 6&frac14;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align='right'>Portsmouth</td>
+    <td align='right'>6&frac34;&nbsp; 10&nbsp; 12&mdash;</td>
+    <td>3&frac12;&nbsp; 6.15</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align='right'>South'n.</td>
+    <td align='right'>8&frac34;&nbsp; 10.40&nbsp; 12&mdash;</td>
+    <td>3&frac34;&nbsp; 6&frac14;&nbsp; 8&frac34;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>South'n to East Cowes</td>
+    <td align='right'>3&frac12;&nbsp; 10.40&mdash;</td>
+    <td>1&frac34;&nbsp; 4.40</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>E. Cowes to South'ton.</td>
+    <td align='right'>8.35&nbsp; 11.50&mdash;</td>
+    <td>3.35&nbsp; 6</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class='center'>On Sundays the passages are less frequent.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class='center'><i>Portsmouth, Portsea, Gosport, and Ryde.</i></p>
+
+<p>From Gosport at 8.10, 9.45, 10.50, 11.50, 1&frac12;, 2&frac12;, 5&frac14;, 6.35.
+From Portsea at 8.15, 9.50, 10.55 11.55, 1.35, 2.35, 5.25, 6.40.
+From Portsmouth each passage five minutes later.</p>
+
+<p>From Ryde at 7.20, 9, 11, 12, 1&frac14;, 2&frac12;, 4&frac14;, &amp; 6.</p>
+
+<p class='center'>ON SUNDAYS:</p>
+
+<p>From Portsmouth at 8, 3, and 5.<br />From Ryde at 9, 4, and 6.</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>In the height of the season, steamers leave Southampton for Cowes on
+the arrival of every Railway train,&mdash;and Cowes for Southampton in time
+to meet every Train: and between Portsmouth and Ryde run about every
+hour from 7 to 7.</i></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<blockquote><p>From <span class="smcap">Lymington</span>&mdash;the <i>Glasgow</i> runs to Yarmouth three or
+four times a-day: the <i>Solent</i> every morning to Cowes, whence she
+proceeds on alternate days to Southampton and Portsmouth&mdash;and by
+suiting her time to that of the other steamers, maintains a daily
+communication between all these places.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The steamers from Portsmouth, Southampton, and Lymington, tow
+horse-boats across.</p>
+
+<p>During summer, Steamers frequently make trips round the island, usually
+in about seven hours.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class='center'><i>Regular Sailing Passage-boats.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">From Cowes</span> to <span class="smcap">Newport</span>, daily: the hours depending upon
+the state of the tide.</p>
+
+<p>From <span class="smcap">Wootton</span> to <span class="smcap">Portsmouth</span> at 9 and 4 (3 or earlier in
+winter), daily: and from Portsmouth at 9 and 2&frac12;.</p>
+
+<p>From <span class="smcap">Bembridge</span> to Portsmouth and back, every other day, or
+oftener, in summer.</p>
+
+<p>To <span class="smcap">Poole</span> the sailing-hoys run twice a-week, calling off Cowes
+and Yarmouth.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>Land-Conveyances.</h3>
+
+<p>The STAGE-COACHES.&mdash;The following are the summer arrangements for
+1849:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>From Newport to Ryde, at 8, 12&frac12;, 2&frac34;, and 5&frac14;.<br />
+From Ryde at 9&frac14;, 11, 3&frac12;, and 6&frac12;.</p>
+
+<p>From Newport to West Cowes at 8, 9&frac12;, 2&frac12;, and 5&frac12;.<br />
+Cowes to Newport at 10, 12, 3&frac12;, and 6&frac12;.</p>
+
+<p>West Cowes to Ventnor (thro' Newport, Blackgang, and Niton,) at 10, returning at 3.
+Ventnor to East Cowes (through Godshill and Newport,) at 8&frac12;, returning at 3.</p>
+
+<p>From Ryde to Ventnor at 9&frac12;, 11, and 3. Ventnor to Ryde at 8&frac12;, 1&frac34;, and 3. Passing through Brading,
+Sandown, and Shanklin.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Most of the coaches omit travelling on Sundays.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>It will be seen that by these conveyances, visitors arriving at Cowes or
+Ryde in the morning may make the tour of one-half the island the same
+day. If from Ryde in the morning, they would be returned to Cowes in
+time for the last packet across, and the same from the latter to the
+former place.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>But here we must caution our friends, as we did respecting the
+steam-packets, that frequent alterations take place in the hours of
+starting, perhaps in consequence of some change made by the
+vessels, but as often induced by the caprice of the rival
+speculators; some of them continuing throughout the year, and
+others running only during the summer.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The <span class="smcap">Carriers</span>.&mdash;These of late have so increased, that there is
+scarcely a village without one or more to Newport or Ryde,&mdash;between the
+latter places there are three every day; between Cowes, Newport, and
+Ventnor, several carts and vans daily; and from the less populous
+parishes, one every other day.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><a name="INNS" id="INNS"></a>List of the Principal Inns.</h3>
+
+<table  border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0' summary='List of the principal Inns'>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Newport,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>the Bugle&mdash;Mew.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Star&mdash;Bryant.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Wheat-sheaf, Corn-market&mdash;J. Read.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Green Dragon, Pyle-street&mdash;R. Read.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Swan, High-street&mdash;Wardle.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Ryde,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Pier Hotel&mdash;Rendall.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Hotel, Union-street&mdash;Yelf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Kent, ditto&mdash;Pegg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Crown, near the theatre&mdash;Woodrow.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Hotel, near the pier&mdash;Beazley.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Star, upper part of the town&mdash;Locke.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Hotel &amp; Boarding-house&mdash;Weeks.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Spring-vale,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Tavern&mdash;Heath.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">West Cowes,&mdash;&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Fountain, on the quay&mdash;Webb.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Vine, adjoining; ditto&mdash;Roper.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Marine Hotel, Parade&mdash;Helmore.</td>
+  </tr>  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Globe, ditto&mdash;Aris.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">East Cowes,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Medina Hotel&mdash;Drew.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Prince of Wales, nr. toll-gate&mdash;Tucker.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Yarmouth,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>George&mdash;Bright.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Bugle&mdash;Butler.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Freshwater,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Hotel. Fr. gate&mdash;Plumbly.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Albion Hotel, ditto&mdash;Groves.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Needles Hotel, Alum Bay&mdash;Groves.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Blackgang Chine,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Hotel&mdash;Brooks.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Niton,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Royal Sandrock Hotel&mdash;Kent.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Boarding-house, on the shore&mdash;Bailey.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>White Lion, Niton village&mdash;Bright.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Buddle Inn&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Ventnor,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Hotel&mdash;Riles.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Marine Hotel&mdash;Bush.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Crab and Lobster&mdash;Cass.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Commercial Inn&mdash;Cummins.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Bonchurch,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Hotel&mdash;Ribbands.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Shanklin,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Williams's Hotel&mdash;Hale.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td>Hotel&mdash;Daish.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Sandown,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>King's-head&mdash;Thomas.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Bembridge,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Hotel, on the beach&mdash;Fletcher.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Brading,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Wheat-sheaf&mdash;Lale.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Calbourne,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Sun&mdash;Woodford.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Godshill,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>Griffin&mdash;Smith.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><span class="smcap">Brixton,&mdash;</span></td>
+    <td>New Inn&mdash;Sanders.</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h4>LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL</h4>
+
+<h2>SEATS &amp; COUNTRY-VILLAS</h2>
+
+<h4>WITH THE NAMES OF</h4>
+
+<h3>Their Proprietors or Occupiers.</h3>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><img src="images/hand30-14.png" width='30' height='14' alt="pointing finger" /> <i>In those instances where no Occupiers' Names appear, such Residences
+are generally to be sold or let.</i></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<table summary='List of the principal country villas'>
+  <tr>
+    <td>OSBORNE,</td>
+    <td>Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>APPULDURCOMBE,</td>
+    <td>Earl Yarborough.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Afton Manor-house,</td>
+    <td>B. Cotton, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Appley, near Ryde,</td>
+    <td>J. Hyde, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Beauchamp, Undercliff,</td>
+    <td>Sir W. Gordon, bt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Bellecroft, near Newport,</td>
+    <td>J. Cooke, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Bembridge Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. F.G. Middleton.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Billingham, near Kingston</td>
+    <td>W. Stancombe, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Binstead Cottage,</td>
+    <td>Lord Downes.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>------ Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. Philip Hewitt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Blackwater Cottage, S. of Newport,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+    <td>J. Rutherford, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Brixton Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. E. McAll.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Brook Manor-house,</td>
+    <td>James How, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Brookfield Cottage, Binstead,</td>
+    <td>Rev. Aug. Hewitt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Calbourne Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. R. Sumner.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Castlehurst, nr. Carisbrooke,</td>
+    <td>H. Pinnock, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Chale Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. A. Gother.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Costorphine-hill, Ryde,</td>
+    <td>J.P. Lind, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>EAST COWES CASTLE,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>East Dene, Bonchurch,</td>
+    <td>Capt. Swinburne.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Egypt House, nr. W. Cowes,</td>
+    <td>Sir T. Tancred, bt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Elm Cottage, near E. Cowes,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>FAIRLEE, N.E. of Newport,</td>
+    <td>Rd. Oglander, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Fairlee Cottage, ditto,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Fairy-hill, Nettlestone,</td>
+    <td>W.A. Glynn, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Farringford-hill, Freshwater,</td>
+    <td>Rev. G. Seymour.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>FERNHILL, Wootton,</td>
+    <td>Samuel Sanders, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>GATCOMBE PARK,</td>
+    <td>Captain Berners.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Gatcombe Rectory,</td>
+    <td>Rev. W. Thompson, D.D.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Hampstead, near Shalfleet,</td>
+    <td>Mrs. Nash.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Haylands, south of Ryde,</td>
+    <td>Captain Locke.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Hill-grove, Bembridge,</td>
+    <td>Hon. A.H. Moreton.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Holmwood, Ryde,</td>
+    <td>T.B. Maynard, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Kite-hill, Wootton,</td>
+    <td>Sir H. Brook, bt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Lowcliff Lodge, Blackgang,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Mill-hill, West Cowes,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Medina Hermitage, nr. Niton,</td>
+    <td>W.H. Dawes, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Mirables, Undercliff, ditto,</td>
+    <td>Mrs. Arnold.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Mount Cleeves House, ditto,</td>
+    <td>the Misses Simes.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Moor House, near W. Cowes,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Mottistone House,</td>
+    <td>R. Jessett, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>New Close, s.w. of Newport,</td>
+    <td>T. Cooke, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Ningwood House,</td>
+    <td>Rev. &mdash;&mdash; Cottell.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Niton Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. R. Dixon.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>NORRIS, near E. Cowes,</td>
+    <td>R. Bell, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>NORTHCOURT, Shorwell,</td>
+    <td>H.P. Gordon, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Shide Cottage, S. of Newport,</td>
+    <td>Col. Napier.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>NORTHWOOD PARK,</td>
+    <td>G.H. Ward, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Norton Lodge, Freshwater,</td>
+    <td>Sir G. Hamond, bt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>NUNWELL, near Brading,</td>
+    <td>Sir W. Oglander, bt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Oakhill, near Ryde,</td>
+    <td>T.M. Leacock, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Old Park, Undercliff,</td>
+    <td>J. Walkinshaw, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Orchard, ditto, near Niton,</td>
+    <td>Sir W. Gordon, bt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Padmore, Whippingham,</td>
+    <td>Rev. James Jolliffe.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Pidford, near Rookley,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Pitt-place, Mottistone,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>PRIORY, <span class="smcap">n</span>. of St. Helen's,</td>
+    <td>H. Smith, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Puckaster Cottage, Undercliff,</td>
+    <td>Mrs. Vine.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Puckpool, east of Ryde,</td>
+    <td>Lewis Wyatt, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Ryde House,</td>
+    <td>Miss Player.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Rookley Cottage,</td>
+    <td>John Woodward, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Rosiere, Niton,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sealand Cottage, Blackgang,</td>
+    <td>R. Pinnock, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Clare, east of Ryde,</td>
+    <td>Col. Vernon Harcourt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>ST. JOHN'S, ditto,</td>
+    <td>A.F. Hamilton, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Lawrence Villa,</td>
+    <td>Earl Yarborough.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>------ Cottage,</td>
+    <td>Hon. Capt. D. Pelham.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>St. Thomas' Villa, E. Cowes,</td>
+    <td>Miss Barrington.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sea-grove, Nettlestone,</td>
+    <td>W. Gardiner esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Sea-field, ditto,</td>
+    <td>Henry Beach, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Spring-field, ditto</td>
+    <td>John Callender, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Steane Villa, Bembridge,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Shanklin Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Archdeacon Hill.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Shorwell Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. E. Robertson.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Slatwoods, near East Cowes,</td>
+    <td>Miss Shedden.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Southlands House, Blackgang,</td>
+    <td>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Spring-hill, ditto,</td>
+    <td>George Shedden, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Standen, south of Newport,</td>
+    <td>General Evelegh.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>STEEPHILL CASTLE,</td>
+    <td>J. Hambrough, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Stickworth, south of Arreton,</td>
+    <td>Mrs. Bell.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Stonepits' Cottage, Binstead,</td>
+    <td>Capt. Brigstocke.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>SWAINSTON, nr. Calbourne,</td>
+    <td>Sir Rd. Simeon, bt.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>The Battery, Sandown,</td>
+    <td>T. Woodham, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>The Farm, nr. Newport,</td>
+    <td>B. Mew, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>The Marina, Norton,</td>
+    <td>Capt. Crozier.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Tower Cottage, Shanklin,</td>
+    <td>&mdash; Cameron, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Uplands, east of Ryde,</td>
+    <td>C. Payne, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Upton House, south of Ryde,</td>
+    <td>Admiral Hoare.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Wacklands, s. of Newchurch,</td>
+    <td>William Thatcher, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>WESTOVER, Calbourne,</td>
+    <td>Hon. A'Court Holmes.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Westhill, Cowes,</td>
+    <td>the Misses Ward.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>------ Norton,</td>
+    <td>R.B. Crozier, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Westcliff, Niton,</td>
+    <td>Captain Ker.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Westridge, east of Ryde,</td>
+    <td>Mrs. Young.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Westbrook, ditto,</td>
+    <td>J. Le Marchant, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Whitcomb, near Gatcombe,</td>
+    <td>Mrs. Hughes.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Woodlands, east of Ryde,</td>
+    <td>J. Percival, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Woodvale, near Gurnard</td>
+    <td>Captain Ffarington.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Wootton Parsonage.</td>
+    <td>Rev. R.W. White.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Yafford, near Shorwell,</td>
+    <td>James Jolliffe, esq.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>Yaverland Parsonage,</td>
+    <td>Rev. R. Sherson.</td>
+  </tr>
+
+</table>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="images/map_lg.jpg" id="map_lg.jpg"><img src="images/map_sm.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 525px; border: 0" alt="Map of the Isle of Wight" /><br />Map of the Isle of Wight</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 16356-h.txt or 16356-h.zip *******</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight, by
+George Brannon
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Brannon's Picture of The Isle of Wight
+       The Expeditious Traveller's Index to Its Prominent Beauties & Objects of Interest. Compiled Especially with Reference to Those Numerous Visitors Who Can Spare but Two or Three Days to Make the Tour of the Island.
+
+
+Author: George Brannon
+
+
+
+Release Date: July 24, 2005  [eBook #16356]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF
+WIGHT***
+
+
+E-text prepared by richyfourtytwo, Martin Pettit, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 16356-h.htm or 16356-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/3/5/16356/16356-h/16356-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/3/5/16356/16356-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT;
+
+Or
+
+The Expeditious Traveller's Index to Its Prominent Beauties & Objects
+of Interest. Compiled Especially with Reference to Those Numerous
+Visitors Who Can Spare but Two or Three Days to Make the Tour of the
+Island.
+
+Printed and Published by George Brannon, Wootton, Isle of Wight
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Pulpit Rock, Bonchurch, looking towards Ventnor.]
+
+
+[Illustration: NORRIS, I.W.]
+
+
+
+
+EXPLANATION.
+
+
+If nearly FORTY YEARS' RESIDENCE in the Isle of Wight may be allowed in
+some degree to qualify an ARTIST for the office of Guide, the Author has
+a fair claim to public patronage,--for few could have had better
+opportunity of acquiring local information.
+
+He has endeavoured to render THE PICTURE an intelligent _Cicerone_,
+without being too garrulous or grandiloquous,--but always attentive to
+the stranger, leading him to every remarkable object, and giving just as
+much description of each, as would be acceptable to persons enjoying the
+full use of their eyes. It affords him, _at first glance_, an INDEX of
+what ought to be seen, and _how best seen in the shortest time_, in
+every place to which he may be successively conducted. This novelty in
+the work will prove very frequently of great utility, especially to
+those visitors who have too little time for their trip, and who, for
+want of such a laconic memento wherever they go, are known in a thousand
+instances to pass by the most interesting objects unnoticed,--not being
+aware even of their proximity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+This being the production of the same hand as several other local
+works, it is due to the stranger to explain in what respects they
+differ:--
+
+I.--THE VECTIS SCENERY is a handsome volume in Royal Quarto,
+substantially bound, containing 36 highly finished line-engravings of
+all the most celebrated landscapes, accompanied with ample letter-press
+descriptions, price L1.5.0.
+
+II.--THE PICTURE differs from the above in being intended for a
+_hand-book_, it is in fact a Cicerone, and therefore occasionally dwells
+with a degree of minuteness which could be interesting only to a person
+actually on the spot; but the "Vectis Scenery" takes the higher rank of
+an Exhibitor of picturesque scenes which ask little aid from verbal
+explanation, and is entitled to a place on the drawing-room table with
+other works of Art. The Engravings in the two publications are quite
+different.
+
+III.--The PLEASURE-VISITOR'S COMPANION is a compendium of useful
+information, with the different Tours, &c. and Views of the Country
+Inns, price 2s., or with Map, 3s.
+
+IV.--The REV. LEGH RICHMOND'S DESCRIPTION of the Island, with
+explanatory Notes and illustrative Engravings, price 2s.6d.
+
+V.--A MAP of the Island and the Opposite Coast--with the Tours, &c., in
+cover, price 1s.6d.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     It were useless to complain of the piracies committed upon the
+     Author's labors, both literary and pictorial, by parties in London
+     as well as in the country; but he may be allowed however to remark,
+     that some of the most common facts and delineations are strangely
+     perverted from the Truth in their new dress,--however artfully
+     disguised to prevent the consequences of palpable detection.
+
+     In cases even where a professional Author may be engaged by a
+     publisher on a local work, the time allowed is generally too
+     limited for acquiring accurate knowledge of his subjects: he must
+     depend either on prior publications or on his personal intercourse
+     with the residents, for much of his information. In compiling from
+     the first of these sources, he is very liable to mis-statement, by
+     investing everything in a new dress to conceal his piracies; and
+     the latter source leaves him open to imposition--for much of his
+     matter will be sheer gossip, partial statements, or unfounded
+     tradition, which a long experience only could detect, and place in
+     a proper light.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.--GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+                                                          PAGE
+  Its Peculiar Advantages for a Summer's Excursion,          9
+  Climate, Situation, and Extent,                           15
+  Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology,                        18
+  Eminent Natives, and Outline of the Local History,        21
+
+CHAPTER II.--THE THREE PRINCIPAL TOWNS, AND THEIR ENVIRONS.
+  Carisbrooke Castle and Village,                           25
+  Newport and its Environs,                                 29
+  East and West Cowes, and their Environs,                  34
+  Objects on the road between Cowes and Ryde,               43
+  Ryde and its Environs,                                    45
+  St. Helen's, Bembridge, Sandown, Brading, &c.,            52
+
+CHAPTER III--THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
+    _Distinguished for its Romantic Scenery._
+  Shanklin Chine and Village,                               59
+  Cooke's Castle, and Luccombe Chine,                       63
+  East End, commencement of the Undercliff,                 64
+  Bonchurch, and Ventnor,                                   65
+  Appuldurcombe and Godshill,                               71
+  Steephill, and St. Lawrence,                              73
+  The Undercliff, between St. Lawrence and Niton,           76
+  The New Light-house, and the Sandrock Spring,             79
+  Blackgang Chine, and St. Catharine's Hill,                81
+  Wrecks on the Southern Coast,                             85
+  Chale, Gatcombe, Shorwell, Brixton, &c.,                  87
+
+CHAPTER IV.--THE SOUTH-WESTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
+    _Distinguished for the most Sublime Scenery._
+  The Road over the Downs to Freshwater,                    89
+  Freshwater Cliffs, Bay, and Caverns,                      90
+  High-down, Main-bench, and Scratchell's Bay,              93
+  Needle Rocks, Alum Bay, Light-house, &c.,                 95
+  Freshwater Village, Yarmouth, Calbourne, &c.,             97
+
+Conspicuous Objects on the Hills,                          100
+Tours through, and Voyage round the Island,                101
+Lists of the Inns and Seats. Passage and Conveyance, &c.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
+
+
+                                                              PAGE
+    I--NORRIS CASTLE,                              _Frontispiece_.
+
+   II--PULPIT ROCK, Bonchurch,                       _Title-page_.
+
+  III--CARISBROOKE CASTLE,                                      24
+
+   IV--WEST COWES: the Castle, Parade, &c.,                     36
+
+    V--OSBOURNE, Her Majesty's Marine Residence,                40
+
+   VI--Town and Pier of RYDE,                                   44
+
+  VII--View from Bembridge Down,                                52
+
+ VIII--SHANKLIN Chine; descent to the beach,                    60
+
+   IX--Shanklin Church,                                         64
+
+    X--COOKE'S CASTLE,                                       _ib._
+
+   XI--The ancient Parish-church of BONCHURCH,                  68
+
+  XII--VENTNOR, near the Church,                             _ib._
+
+ XIII--STEEPHILL Castle and adjacent Coast,                     72
+
+  XIV--ST. LAWRENCE CHURCH,                                     76
+
+   XV--St. Lawrence Well,                                    _ib._
+
+  XVI--The UNDERCLIFF near Mount Cleeves.                       80
+
+ XVII--The new LIGHT-HOUSE near Niton,                       _ib._
+
+XVIII--BLACKGANG CHINE,                                         84
+
+  XIX--FRESHWATER BAY,                                          92
+
+   XX--WATCOMBE BAY,                                         _ib._
+
+  XXI--SCRATCHELL'S Bay and the Needle Rocks,                   96
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE PECULIAR ADVANTAGES OF THE ISLAND AS THE OBJECT OF A SUMMER'S
+EXCURSION.
+
+
+Variety is the characteristic charm of the Isle of Wight; the scenery
+being in fact a most happy combination of the grand and romantic, the
+sylvan and marine--throughout a close interchange of hills and dales,
+intersected by streams and rivers: combining the quiet of rural life
+with the fashionable gaiety of a watering-place, or the bustle of a
+crowded sea-port. But generally, its landscapes are more distinguished
+for beauty than sublimity, and hence the very appropriate designation of
+"THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND!" an emphatic compliment cheerfully paid by the
+thousands annually visiting its shores for pleasure or for health: and
+perhaps there is scarcely another spot in the kingdom, of the same
+narrow limits, which can concentrate more of those qualities that at
+once charm the eye and animate the soul. Nor should it be overlooked how
+large a source of interest is derived from the proximity of those two
+celebrated towns, Southampton and Portsmouth: and the beautiful
+termination given to most of the open prospects by the retiring
+distances on the opposite coast.
+
+                 ----"Intermixture sweet,
+    Of lawns and groves, of open and retired,
+    Vales, farms, towns, villas, castles, distant spires.
+    And hills on hills with ambient clouds enrolled,
+    In long succession court the lab'ring sight."
+
+But the crowning beauty of the Island is certainly THE SEA! viewed in
+all the splendor of its various aspects;--whether under the awful
+grandeur of the agitated and boundless _Ocean_,--as a rapid and
+magnificent _River_,--or reposing in all the glassy tranquillity of a
+spacious land-locked _Bay_:--now of a glowing crimson, and now of the
+purest depth of azure: its bosom ever spangled with a thousand moving
+and attractive objects of marine life.
+
+To those who have never had the opportunity of viewing the sea except
+under the comparatively dreary aspect which it presents from many
+unsheltering parts of the southern coast, as for instance Brighton,
+where almost the only relief to the monotony of the wide expanse is a
+few clumsy fishing boats or dusky colliers, and occasionally the rolling
+clouds of smoke from a passing steamer,--it may seem that we are rather
+disposed to exaggerate the picture; but not so, as would certainly be
+attested by every one who had visited the island: for here the scene is
+ever enriched by magnificent SHIPS OF WAR, innumerable merchant-vessels,
+and splendid pleasure-yachts, safely lying at anchor or gaily sailing
+about in every direction; and what moving object in the world can
+surpass, in grandeur, beauty, and interest, a fine ship under full
+canvass with a light breeze? Let the reader only imagine how glorious a
+sight it must have been, when 200 sail,--line-of-battle-ships, frigates,
+and large merchantmen under convoy, would weigh anchor at the same time,
+and proceeding on their voyage, _pass round the island_ as it were in
+review!--thus affording a spectacle, as they floated
+
+    "O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,"
+
+never to be erased from the memory of those who had once the
+incomparable pleasure to witness it. True it is, that in these happier
+times of peace, such exhibitions are not to be expected: but frequently
+even now, very large fleets of merchantmen, and perhaps several
+men-of-war, which have put in through distress of weather, or been
+detained by contrary winds, will all at the same moment weigh anchor at
+the first favorable change. [Footnote: The glories of the olden time
+have of late years been frequently revived at the departure of
+Experimental and other squadrons rendezvousing at Spithead,--accompanied
+as they sometimes are by hundreds of sailing-craft and steamers,
+including the beautiful yachts of all the neighbouring clubs.]
+
+We think it ridiculous to attribute qualities to the island (as is
+often done,) which it really does not possess: all we contend for is,
+that few spots can excel the Wight _altogether in the amount of its_
+VARIOUS _attractions_; we mean especially to those parties who can only
+snatch occasionally a very brief period for a summer excursion; not only
+as regards its _peculiar and acknowledged local advantages_, but equally
+so from those adventitious and auxiliary circumstances that are derived
+from the present _rail-road_ conveyance from the metropolis: and from
+the _shortness_ and _perfect safety_ of the passage across--being little
+more than an hour from Southampton, and only half that time from
+Portsmouth; the former an important mercantile port and fashionable
+watering-place; and the latter, the first naval station in the
+kingdom--its marine treasures too thrown open gratuitously to public
+inspection: and what curiosity can afford a Briton more gratification,
+than to visit such a dock-yard, and pace the deck of the very ship in
+which _Victory_ crowned the last moments of the immortal Nelson?
+
+Though the island has to boast of many passages of highly romantic and
+_brilliant_ scenery, yet the predominant character of its landscapes is,
+as was hinted above, calculated to amuse, to delight, and promote
+_cheerfulness_, rather than to astonish or impress the spectator with
+feelings of awe by their stupendous grandeur; circumstances which,
+combined with its salubrity of climate, render it a most desirable
+retreat to the valetudinarian and nervous invalid: indeed all the
+alterations which have latterly been made, or are now in progress, tend
+to soften, embellish, and in point of convenience to improve the face of
+the country. On this subject however it will be a question with many
+persons of good taste, whether any of these artificial operations are
+really improvements upon the native character of the island. An artist
+would most probably decide in the negative: but we know there are many
+nevertheless, who consider that whatever deterioration the island may
+experience in some of her more wild and romantic features, is amply
+compensated by the spread of cultivation and rural decoration, by the
+increased facilities of travelling, and the multiplied means of
+enjoyment now afforded to the pleasure-tourist.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A few particulars will suffice for the present, to prove the above
+assertions, and may perhaps be found
+
+USEFUL HINTS TO STRANGERS
+
+Purposing a visit to the shores of the Garden of England. They may
+arrange to breakfast comfortably at the usual hour in London--start by
+the rail-road, and reach either of the above ports at noon, or even
+earlier--steam-packets are in readiness to convey the passengers across,
+and stage-coaches and other vehicles await their arrival at Cowes and
+Ryde: our friends may then _ride round one-half_ of the island, and
+return the next, or even _the same night!_ but this of course is
+abridging the affair a little too much. But allow a full week, and that
+will suffice to render it a very pleasant trip. If, for example, you
+come to Southampton, sleep there, or at least tarry a few hours in the
+examination of it: then take the last steamer to Cowes or Ryde, and
+sleep there the first night: next morning commence the regular Tour of
+three days, dining and sleeping twice or thrice at one or other of the
+inns situated on the rocky side of the island, to enjoy at the same time
+the more unusual feast of a wide prospect of the sea, and the music of
+the foaming breakers thundering on the beach below. Supposing you start
+from Cowes, as being opposite Southampton, the Route will bring you
+round to Ryde; where you cross to Portsmouth, and having gone over the
+fortifications, the dock-yard, and Nelson's ship, return by one or other
+of the rail-roads. But if you arrive by Portsmouth and Ryde, then return
+_via_ Cowes and 'Hampton.--For the details of the several routes, the
+reader is of course referred to the chapter "Tours," at the end of the
+Work.
+
+That part of the island immediately opposite Hampshire is generally
+well-wooded, with an easy descent to the shore--populous and busy, as
+might be expected from the two considerable watering-places before
+named, and several excellent harbors. But the south side (familiarly
+called _the Back of the Island_,) being washed by the impetuous tides of
+the ocean, presents a very different aspect, showing the resistless
+progress of the waves:--and hence perpendicular cliffs of great
+altitude, precipitous slopes constantly detaching large masses of earth
+and rocks, and all the picturesque confusion produced by successive
+landslips: here therefore the scenery is variously characterized by
+dreary devastation, romantic beauty, or sublime splendor of effect. But
+not so of _the Interior_ of the island, which presents the softer
+pictures of pastoral and rural life: for ...
+
+    "Creation's mildest charms are here combined,"
+
+enlivened by several splendid mansions, with their parks and groves. The
+churches are numerous: some "embosomed soft in trees," and others
+picturesquely seated on commanding knolls: and many of the highest hills
+are adorned by a light-house or signal-station--some lofty obelisk,
+tower, or mill; so that in every direction a conspicuous object gives an
+interest and discriminative identity to those broad features of scenery,
+which would otherwise be perfectly tame and monotonous.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Situation, Extent, Climate, &c._
+
+The Isle of Wight extends from east to west 23 miles, by about 14 from
+north to south (being very nearly the figure of a lozenge),
+circumscribes at least 60 miles, and contains upwards of 100,000 acres.
+It is separated from the Hampshire coast by a strait called the SOLENT
+SEA, varying from three to seven miles in width: and bounded by the
+British Channel on the south--the nearest part of the French coast being
+Cherbourg (18 leagues distant), which is said to have been seen from the
+hills of Freshwater, &c. The extent of the English coast visible in
+clear weather is above 100 miles, from Beachy Head in Sussex, to the
+Isle of Portland in Dorset.
+
+THE CLIMATE.--The purity of the air was always acknowledged by those who
+ever visited the island owing to the dry and highly cultivated face of
+the country: but it was left to an eminent Physician, Dr. James Clarke,
+to give due celebrity to the unrivaled salubrity of the climate:--
+
+"The Island, from the variety which it presents in point of elevation,
+soil, and aspect, and from the configuration of its hills and shores,
+possesses several peculiarities of climate and situation, which render
+it a very favorable and commodious residence throughout the year, for a
+large class of invalids. On this account, the Isle of Wight claims our
+particular attention, as it comprehends within itself advantages which
+are of great value to the delicate invalid, and to obtain which, in
+almost any other part of England, he would require to make a
+considerable journey." And he further remarks, that "the Undercliff bids
+fair to exceed all other winter residences in this country, and the
+island will have added to its title of the Garden of England, that of
+the BRITISH MADEIRA."
+
+The classical designation of the island is VECTA or VECTIS: but its
+modern name is derived from Wect, With, or Wict, as it is found
+variously written in Doomsday Book.
+
+     Some writers have supposed the island to have been once connected
+     with the mainland by an isthmus stretching from Gurnet, near Cowes,
+     to Leap, on the Hampshire roast; but nothing decisive has yet been
+     advanced in support of this strange hypothesis.
+
+The surface of the island presents a constant succession of valley and
+eminence--the two principal chains of hills being ... a range of chalk
+downs of a smooth rounded shape, and from 500 to 700 feet high, that
+stretch lengthways through the middle of the island, abutting the ocean
+at Freshwater on the west, and Bembridge on the east:-and a still
+loftier range, variously composed of chalk, firestone, &c., that skirts
+the south-eastern coast from Shanklin Down to St. Catharine's (the
+latter 830 feet in height,) and whose broken flank on the sea-side forms
+the celebrated and romantic region of the UNDERCLIFF.
+
+The principal streams in the Isle of Wight navigable for marine craft
+are the Rivers Medina and Yar, and the Creeks of Newtown and
+Wootton.--The Medina, whose source is in the south, and which joins the
+sea at Cowes, divides the island into two hundreds of nearly equal
+extent, respectively called the East and West Medene; the first
+comprising 14, the latter 16 parishes.
+
+The population of the island has doubled since 1802, and now exceeds
+45,000. No manufacture of any consequence is carried on (with the
+exception of the lace-factory near Newport,) Corn being the staple
+article of trade,--for which there are about 42 mills, nearly all of
+them worked by water.
+
+Almost encompassed by formidable rocks and shelves, few parts of the
+English coast are more dangerous to ships driving in a storm. The most
+dreaded parts are the Needles and Shingles, at the western point;
+Rocken-end Race at the south, and Bembridge Ledge at the eastern
+extremity: few winters pass without the melancholy catastrophe of
+shipwreck; though the danger is now of course diminished by the
+establishment of Light-houses--especially of the new one near
+Niton.--Owing to this cause, and to the precipitous nature of the coast
+itself, the island presents few points favorable to an enemy's landing,
+and even those were for the most part fortified by order of Henry VIII:
+The forts of Sandown, Cowes, and Yarmouth still remain; and though they
+might be of little use in the present state of military science, the
+presence of "England's wooden walls" at the stations of Spithead and St.
+Helen's, renders all local defences needless.
+
+_Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology_.
+
+The island presents many rare geological phenomena: and from its
+smallness, easy access, and the various nature of its coasts, offers an
+admirable field for scientific investigation.
+
+One peculiarity deserves to be particularly noticed; namely, the
+extraordinary state in which the FLINTS are found in the great range of
+chalk hills,--for all those in regular beds, are broken into pieces in
+every direction, from two or three inches long, to an almost impalpable
+powder; and yet show no other indication of their fracture than very
+fine lines, until the investing chalk be removed, when they fall at once
+to pieces! But the separate flints or nodules in the body of the chalk
+strata are not so: which led the late Sir H. Englefield to conjecture,
+that the phenomenon was caused in the moment of the immense concussion
+which subverted the whole mass of strata, and placed them in their
+present nearly vertical position.
+
+Another interesting circumstance in the geological structure of the Isle
+of Wight, is a series of strata, _vertical_ or highly inclined, which
+run across the middle of it from east to west; while the strata on each
+side are _horizontal_; they consist of ... a very thick stratum of clay
+and sand (observable at Alum Bay), flinty chalk, chalk without flints,
+chalk-marle, green sandstone with lime-stone and chert, dark-grey marle,
+and ferruginous sand.
+
+A PROGRESSIVE CHANGE is evidently taking place in the boundary line of
+the coast--the sea making considerable invasions on the south side,
+which is exposed to the resistless currents of the ocean; while on the
+north it is found to be more gradually receding, from the accumulation
+of sand and shingle drifted and deposited by the less impetuous tides of
+the Solent Channel.--About Brixton, for instance, between Blackgang
+Chine and the Freshwater Cliffs, the loss of land has been estimated
+(from the successive removals of paths and hedges,) to exceed 200 feet
+in breadth in less than a century; while in the neighbourhood of Ryde it
+is known that the bed of a valley formerly accessible to the sea is now
+rather above its highest level; and even in 1760, when Fielding visited
+the island, the coast there is described by him as a wide disgusting
+waste of mud, which is now covered with an increasing layer of sand,
+sufficiently firm to bear wheel-carriages; and no doubt but in process
+of time there will be a great accession to the beach, from the constant
+though slow operation of the same causes--denuding on the one side, and
+reciprocally accumulating on the other.
+
+Good Stone of various qualities is found in most parts of the island:
+and with that procured from the quarries of Binstead, the body of
+Winchester Cathedral was built. All the houses along the Undercliff are
+constructed with a beautiful kind of freestone procured on the spot.
+
+     Extensive pits are worked in the downs for the chalk, which is used
+     for manure, burning into lime, &c. A stratum of coals was formerly
+     believed to run through the central downs, and Sir Rt. Worsley
+     actually sunk a shaft for it near Bembridge; his labors however
+     were but poorly rewarded. Veins of coarse iron ore have also
+     appeared in some parts of the island.
+
+The finest white sand in the kingdom is obtained from the sea-cliffs at
+Freshwater, and is carried in great quantities to the glass and
+porcelain manufactories. Excellent brick-earth abounds in almost every
+part of the island: common native alum, copperas, specimens of
+petrifactions, and many curious varieties of sea-weeds, are picked up on
+the shores; in the cliffs and quarries are found numerous beautiful
+fossil remains,--especially oysters and other bivalve shells, of a vast
+size.
+
+The central range of chalk hills divides the island into two nearly
+distinct regions, the soil and strata being essentially different,--a
+stiff clay predominating on the north side, which is extensively covered
+with wood, while the south side is principally of a light sandy soil or
+mellow loam, and being exceedingly fertile, the whole tract is almost
+exclusively employed in tillage.
+
+     In geological terms, the north is formed of the _Eocene_ or
+     freshwater deposits: and the south of the _Cretaceous_ or oceanic,
+     except where the _Wealden_ exhibits itself at Sandown and Brixton
+     bays.--Though affording a great variety of soil, the island is upon
+     the whole well calculated for farming as may be inferred from its
+     proverbial fertility; "it was many years ago computed to produce as
+     much corn in one year as its inhabitants would consume in
+     seven,--and the improved cultivation, with the additional land
+     brought into tillage, has doubtless kept pace with the increased
+     population."
+
+In AGRICULTURE there is now a close approximation to the routine
+practised in the rest of the county: and there is scarcely any
+peculiarity observable either in the system of Husbandry, or in the
+manners of the Yeomanry, who are a very intelligent and respectable
+class.
+
+     The constant intercourse which the inhabitants have with persons
+     from other parts of the kingdom, has in fact erased all insular
+     peculiarities. But the following extract from the Memoirs of Sir
+     John Oglander, which were written about the year 1700, will be read
+     with interest, as exhibiting a most
+
+     _Amusing Picture of the Islanders in the 16th century_.
+
+     "I have heard," says he, "and partly knowe it to be true, that not
+     only heretofore there was no lawyer nor attorney in owre island,
+     but in Sir George Carey's time [1588] an attorney coming in to
+     settle in the island, was by his command, with a pound of candles
+     hanging att his breech lighted, with bells about his legs, hunted
+     owte of the island; insomuch that owre ancestors lived here so
+     quietly and securely, being neither troubled to London nor
+     Winchester, so they seldom or never went owte of the island;
+     insomuch as when they went to London (thinking it an East India
+     voyage), they always made their wills, supposing no trouble like to
+     travaile."
+
+The extensive downs of the island afford excellent pasture for sheep,
+whose wool is of a staple not inferior to that produced on the South
+Downs: and many thousand lambs are annually sent to the London markets.
+From the improvements effected in Husbandry, there are now nearly
+sufficient oxen reared and fatted for the use of the inhabitants,
+instead of the butchers going as formerly, to Salisbury, &c. for their
+cattle.
+
+The demands of the dock-yards (both here and at Portsmouth,) have
+greatly thinned the timber of the island, which is principally oak and
+elm, and is found to grow most luxuriantly in the wooded tract from East
+Cowes to St. Helen's.
+
+     In the time of King Charles II, woods were so extensive, that it is
+     recorded, a squirrel might have run on the tops of the trees from
+     Gurnard to Carisbrooke, and in several other parts for leagues
+     together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In ZOOLOGY there is nothing very remarkable, except the absence of
+pole-cats, badgers, and till lately, even foxes: but the
+poultry-breeders are now indebted for the introduction of the latter to
+some sparkish amateurs of hunting: many have been killed, but they are
+still breeding rapidly in the favorable fastnesses of the more rocky and
+woody districts. Otters too are frequently seen.--GAME is abundant,
+particular attention having been paid to its preservation. "The great
+plenty of hares and other game is owing to the care of Sir Edward
+Horsey, governor in 1582, who is reported to have given a lamb for every
+living hare brought to him from the neighbouring counties."
+
+THE NIGHTINGALE.--These much-prized birds of passage make the island
+their early and most favorite resort; and to those visitors from the
+north who perhaps never heard their unrivaled notes, the opportunity
+would prove not the least gratifying circumstance in a day's pleasure.
+On fine evenings in the months of May and June, the woods and groves in
+every direction resound with the delightful chorus of their inimitable
+songs.
+
+Astonishing numbers of sea-fowl resort during the summer months to the
+cliff's of Freshwater and Bembridge: in the latter, the eagle has been
+known to build its eyry, and in the time of queen Elizabeth they were
+famous for a breed of hawks, which were so valued, that it was made a
+capital crime to steal them.
+
+FISH of every kind common to the southern coast of England is caught off
+the island, but not in that abundance which might be expected, except
+crabs and lobsters, which are uncommonly large and fine. Mackarel are
+some seasons extremely plentiful, small, but peculiarly sweet. Numbers
+of porpoises are seen rolling along in the Solent Sea and Southampton
+Water; sharks are frequently observed off the back of the island, and
+sometimes even the grampus pursuing its prey. In 1814, a large whale was
+taken off the Shingles (west of the Needle Rocks,) having been left
+aground by the ebbing tide: and in the winter of 1841, another,
+measuring 75 feet in length, was caught near the same spot.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Local Biography and History._
+
+The following are amongst the most eminent natives of the island:
+
+     Sir JOHN CHEEKE, Knt., one of the most distinguished scholars and
+     virtuous men of his time: he was tutor to Edward VI, and a zealous
+     protestant, but being induced during the following reign to make a
+     public recantation, his death, which happened soon after, was
+     supposed to have been hastened by shame of that humiliating
+     exhibition.
+
+     Rev. HENRY COLE, D.D., Dean of St. Paul's, a contemporary of the
+     above, was born at Godshill: he shone in divinity and literature,
+     and was a strenuous advocate of the Roman-catholic faith.
+
+     THOs. JAMES, D.D., a learned divine and antiquary: was esteemed,
+     from his extensive erudition, a living library, Born at Newport,
+     died 1629.
+
+     ROBERT HOOK, M.D., celebrated for his extraordinary inventive
+     powers in almost every branch of art and science, was born at
+     Freshwater anno 1635, and died at an advanced age, in Gresham
+     College.
+
+     JOHN HOBSON, rose by his skill and courage from the obscurity of a
+     tailor's parish-apprentice to an admiral's rank in the reign of
+     Queen Anne: he headed Sir George Rooke's squadron in the attack on
+     Vigo harbour, where a numerous Spanish fleet was entirely captured
+     or burned.--The little village of Bonchurch claims the honor of his
+     birth-place.
+
+We shall conclude this general chapter with a brief summary of the
+local history, though the annals of a small dependent isle like this,
+cannot be expected to possess any very exciting interest.
+
+     [In fact it can boast of no important ancient settlements or
+     records--no valued chronicles of the alternate successes and
+     defeats of ambitious rival princes and their contending armies, or
+     the unpitied sufferings of the sacrificed population: and perhaps
+     it would never have been mentioned in the national history, had it
+     not been for the imprisonment of fallen royalty in the case of
+     Charles I. Its situation certainly exposed it to the attacks of
+     Danish pirates, and subsequently of the French; but these distant
+     events constituting but a broken and unconnected narrative, the
+     ensuing brief sketch will we presume be sufficient for the majority
+     of our readers. We refer those who wish further information on the
+     subject to the valuable work of Sir Richard Worsley,--from which
+     this article is partly abridged.]
+
+     It was subdued by the Roman troops under Vespasian, A.D. 43; but
+     the conquerors could not have experienced much resistance from the
+     natives, as no remains of their military works have been here
+     discovered. Under the empire, the island was reckoned to contain
+     about 1200 families.
+
+     The Saxon kings of the South of England several times attacked the
+     island with their accustomed unsparing ferocity: particularly
+     Cerdic, in 530, who replaced the slaughtered British by a colony of
+     his own countrymen; and Ceadwalla of Murcia, who having seized it
+     in 686, was so incensed at the idolatry of the inhabitants, that he
+     resolved at first to extirpate them, and repeople the island with
+     _Christians!_ but at the intercession of bishop Wilfred, great
+     numbers saved their lives by submitting to be baptized.
+
+     In the ninth and following centuries the island suffered, in common
+     with the neighbouring coast, from the predatory visits of the
+     Danes. For a time indeed they were checked by the great Alfred, who
+     wholly captured or destroyed one large fleet, laden with the spoils
+     of Hampshire and the Wight: but under the weak and disordered
+     reigns of his successors, the northern pirates seem to have taken
+     possession of this defenceless spot as often as they pleased; and
+     after making it a depot for the plunder of the adjacent counties,
+     and living freely on the inhabitants, sometimes wantonly burned
+     towns and villages at their departure.
+
+     The island was also severely harrassed by some of the rebellious
+     Saxon nobles in the reign of Edward the Confessor; but after the
+     Norman Conquest, its tranquillity was not materially disturbed till
+     the year 1346, when a party of French landed at St. Helen's; they
+     were soon repulsed by the islanders, though the warden, Sir
+     Theobald Russell, was amongst the slain. About this time a variety
+     of excellent regulations were made by the inhabitants for their
+     better security: the landholders were by their tenures bound to
+     defend the castle of Carisbrooke for 40 days at their own charges;
+     the county of Devon sent for its defence 76 men-at arms, and the
+     city of London 300 slingers and bowmen.
+
+     Another party of the French seem to have made a more successful
+     attack in the first year of Richard II: indeed the islanders at
+     that time had little besides their own valor to depend on for
+     protection; as there were no forts to obstruct an enemy's landing;
+     Carisbrooke Castle standing in the centre of the island, could
+     only serve for a partial retreat: and serious ravages might be
+     committed ere any assistance arrived from the mainland. This want
+     of domestic security so discouraged the natives, that many families
+     withdrew, when an order was issued to the wardens to seize the
+     lands of all such as refused to return.
+
+     Not long afterwards a powerful body of Frenchmen landed in the
+     island, the militia of which (900 in number,) had been reinforced
+     from Southampton and London, in expectation of this hostile visit.
+     The invaders were unable to reduce Carisbrooke Castle, which was
+     commanded by the governor, Sir H. Tyrrel--and moreover suffered
+     considerable loss by an ambuscade at a place near Newport, still
+     called Deadman's Lane; [Footnote: A tumulus where the slain were
+     buried, at the south entrance to the town, was exultingly named
+     _Noddies'_ Hill--whence the present appellation Nodehill.] yet as
+     the houses of the inhabitants lay at their mercy, they were at
+     length bought off by the payment of 1000 marks, and a promise that
+     no resistance should be offered, if they revisited the island
+     within a year.
+
+     In the reign of Henry IV, the French made two other attacks: on the
+     first occasion they were repulsed with loss; and on the second,
+     when a large fleet made a threatening demand of a subsidy, the
+     islanders were so elated at their past success, that they invited
+     the French to land and try their prowess in fair fight, after
+     having had sufficient time to rest and refresh themselves: this
+     handsome challenge was not however accepted.
+
+     Owing to its comparatively remote situation, the island escaped
+     those calamities which afflicted the rest of the kingdom during the
+     bloody disputes of the rival Roses: nor was it engaged with any
+     foreign enemy till the year 1488, when the governor, Sir Edward de
+     Woodville, having raised a body of about 500 men, passed over to
+     the continent in aid of the Duke of Bretagne against the king of
+     France. At the battle of St. Aubin the Bretons were routed, and the
+     islanders, whom hatred or contempt of the French probably impelled
+     to a more obstinate resistance, perished to a man: this unfortunate
+     event plunged the whole island into mourning; and in order to
+     recruit the diminished population, an act of parliament forbad any
+     single inhabitant from holding farms above the annual rent of ten
+     marks.
+
+     On the 18th of July, 1545, a large French fleet appearing off the
+     Isle of Wight, the English squadron which lay at Spithead, though
+     greatly inferior in force, stood out to meet them: but the
+     admiral's ship _Mary Rose_ sinking with most of her crew, the
+     others retreated into the Solent Channel; while the French landed
+     several parties of troops, and after some sharp fighting, repulsed
+     the islanders who had collected to oppose them; it was next
+     proposed in a council of war to fortify and keep possession of the
+     island, but this being considered impracticable by any number of
+     men that could then be spared from the ships, they proceeded to
+     pillage and burn the villages, till the inhabitants, being
+     reinforced, attacked and drove them off with the loss of many men,
+     and one of their principal officers. King Henry VIII, in order to
+     prevent a repetition of such mischievous visits, erected several
+     forts and blockhouses for the protection of the coast; and though
+     the rapid advance of the British naval power still more effectually
+     guarded it from the danger of foreign invasions, the islanders for
+     many years afterwards neglected no precautions for their own
+     defence: a train of field-pieces was provided among the different
+     parishes, and the militia, in 1625, numbered 2000 men.
+
+     In the division between king Charles I and the parliament, the
+     islanders at first manifested some zeal in the royal cause; yet as
+     soon as hostilities commenced at Portsmouth, the Newport militia
+     expelled the weak garrison of Carisbrooke Castle, which, with the
+     other forts, were delivered to the parliamentary troops; and on the
+     arrival of the Earl of Pembroke, the gentlemen and principal
+     farmers assembled at Cowes, and tendered him their best services.
+     The inhabitants having thus taken a decisive step in closing with
+     the prevailing power, remained undisturbed spectators of the
+     ensuing commotions, till the king injudiciously sought here an
+     asylum.
+
+     On the 12th of November, 1647, Charles, who had just fled from
+     Hampton Court, was met at Tichfield by Colonel Hammond, governor of
+     the Isle of Wight, who invited him to take up his residence at
+     Carisbrooke Castle. The offer was accepted, and for some time the
+     royal guest appeared to be quite free and unrestrained in his
+     actions and company; but afterwards his liberty was gradually
+     abridged, his confidential servants removed, and himself imprisoned
+     within the castle; the various unsuccessful attempts that were made
+     to effect his escape only serving as a pretext to increase the
+     rigor of his confinement. Yet during the subsequent negociations of
+     the Treaty of Newport, he was set at large on his parole,--till a
+     detachment of the army broke off the negociations by arresting and
+     conveying him to Hurst Castle; 30 days before he lost his life at
+     Whitehall.
+
+     As its situation preserved it from scenes of hostility between the
+     troops, the island enjoyed a much happier state than any other part
+     of the kingdom during the civil war, which caused many families to
+     retire hither: a circumstance that for the time rose the farm-rents
+     in the proportion of 20 per cent. The subsequent local history
+     presents nothing of any interest, with the exception perhaps of the
+     powerful armaments which assembled in the neighbourhood during the
+     last French war, and the large bodies of military which were in
+     consequence here quartered.
+
+     The absolute lordship of the Isle of Wight was given by William the
+     Conqueror to one William Fitz-Osborne (in reward for his services
+     at the battle of Hastings), "to be held by him as freely as he
+     himself held the realm of England"; but in consequence of the
+     defection of his descendant, it was resumed by the Crown. Henry I
+     granted it to the Earl of Devon, in whose family it long continued,
+     till the alienation of it was obtained by Edward I, for a
+     comparatively small sum. The last grant was to Edward de Woodville
+     in 1485; from which time there have been successively appointed by
+     the Crown,--wardens, captains--and governors of the island: but the
+     powers attached to the office have gradually declined, and at
+     present it is a mere title, unaccompanied by duty or, we believe,
+     emolument.--It is an amusing circumstance in the history of this
+     little spot, that it had once the high-sounding honor of having a
+     _King of its own!_--for the Duke of Warwick was so crowned by the
+     hands of Henry VI, in the year 1444,--but it would seem that the
+     glory of the name was all which his _Vectis_ Majesty derived from
+     his accession.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Carisbrooke, Newport, Cowes, and Ryde.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     As a stranger's attention is frequently diverted from noticing many
+     interesting features of a scene in the hurried moment of his visit,
+     an index >> is placed at the head of each section, pointing only to
+     the _most remarkable objects_--a peculiarity which, it is presumed,
+     will be found extremely useful to those who have little time to
+     spare for minute examination or research.
+
+     Our arrangement of the subjects supposes the reader to start from a
+     point nearly central, and pursue his tour of the island in a
+     regular progress, without frequently retrograding, or considerably
+     deviating either to the right or left. This order must prove
+     convenient for reference at all events, let the visitor commence
+     his journey from any of the principal towns.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CARISBROOKE CASTLE.
+
+[Illustration: CARISBROOKE CASTLE, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+      "Still farther in the vale a castle lifts
+    Its stately towers, and tottering battlements,
+    Drest with the rampant ivy's uncheck'd growth."
+
+>>_The chief curiosities within the castle are_ ... THE KEEP, _the
+immense_ WELL, _and the apartments which were the_ PRISON _of King
+Charles I and his family_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The high antiquity of this beautiful ruin, which occupies the crown of a
+hill only one mile westward of Newport, renders it an object of the most
+pleasing interest with all classes of visitors to the Isle of Wight; and
+it is the only local specimen of ancient fortification deserving a
+stranger's notice. It is known to have existed for at least fourteen
+centuries, having in that long period been subjected of course to many
+mutations. The Saxon chronicles mention it as a place of strength and
+importance in the year 530, when Cerdic subdued the island; and it was
+subsequently rendered almost impregnable, according to the mode of
+fortification which prevailed among the Normans, by William
+Fitz-Osborne, to whom the island was given by the Conqueror. And in the
+reign of queen Elizabeth, it received the most substantial repairs and
+ample additions; when the outer trenches and bastions were formed upon
+the plan of those of Antwerp--circumscribing about 20 acres.
+
+On our nearly reaching the top of the hill by the carriage-road, we see
+first the ancient KEEP, peering above the rest of the ruins; and next,
+the principal and well-guarded entrance to the interior of the fortress.
+Passing through an ivied gateway, built in the reign of queen Elizabeth,
+as appears by the legible inscription (40 E.R. 1520,) on a shield over
+the arch: we proceed to another gateway in a spacious square building,
+whose angles are strengthened by two noble round towers: this opens into
+the interior area; had several prison rooms, and was armed with a
+portcullis: but the whole of it is now in a sad condition,
+
+    "Defac'd by time, and tott'ring in decay!"
+
+Nothing can be more picturesque than the first view of this venerable
+scene: the most luxuriant ivy everywhere mantles the grey walls and
+mouldering battlements, interspersed with the waving branches of wild
+vegetation: and the surrounding terraces are adorned with the opposing
+tints of pines and every variety of deciduous trees.
+
+Being admitted through the curious old oaken wicket to the inner court,
+the attendant cicerone will lead the visitor to several objects in due
+succession: the most remarkable are ...
+
+The place in which the unfortunate king Charles I was confined (1647),
+and his children imprisoned after his death: but the apartments are so
+dilapidated that it is next to impossible to decide upon their
+arrangement: the window however is shown through which he vainly
+attempted an escape: this is generally examined with a greater share of
+interest than perhaps any other part of the castle, and is often obliged
+to contribute as a relic, some minute portion of its crumbling walls.
+
+THE KEEP is certainly the most ancient part of the fortress, having been
+built either prior to, or early in the time of the Saxons: and was
+rendered an appendage to the more ample fortifications constructed by
+the Normans. It is reached by a flight of 72 stone steps (nine inches
+each); was guarded by a portcullis-gate; and provided with a well 310
+feet deep, since partially filled by the falling ruins.
+
+At the S.E. angle are the remains of another very ancient tower called
+MONTJOY'S: the walls in some places are eighteen feet thick.
+
+The WELL-HOUSE is to many persons the most attractive object within the
+walls of the castle,--for should the solemn ruins fail to impress that
+sentiment of reflection which proves to others the very zest of their
+visit, they will at least be not a little amused by the apt performance
+of a docile ass, whose task it is to draw up water from a well 300 feet
+deep! This office he performs by treading rapidly inside of an immense
+windlass-wheel (15-1/2 feet in diameter,) whereby he gives it the
+necessary rotatory motion. The natural longevity of these patient
+laborers is here exemplified by the instances on record; one done the
+duty for above 50 years, another 40, and another nearly 30. To afford
+some idea of the depth of the well, a lighted candle is lowered: and
+water is thrown down from a bucket, which produces quite a startling
+noise,--it will be three or four seconds in falling. For the same
+purpose, pins were formerly employed, but these were strictly forbidden,
+on account of their deleterious tendency on the water.
+
+The Chapel, the Governor's apartments, the Barracks, Powder Magazine,
+&c. are also pointed out; but to go over the whole works of this
+venerable monument of antiquity, and give a minute detail of the several
+parts usually shown to strangers, would be tedious to the _reader_,
+though doubtless every spot and fragment must be viewed by the _visitor_
+with a lively interest.
+
+If a party be not pressed for time, they should go round the outer
+terrace, reckoned a mile in circumference, the walk is in some parts
+sequestered and most pleasingly solemn, in other points presenting very
+charming views; and altogether calculated to raise our admiration, and
+give a more perfect idea of this beautiful specimen of ancient
+fortification.
+
+The open space in the outworks, called the Place of Arms, is where the
+Archery Club resort during the season for exercise; no spot certainly
+could be more convenient: though by the bye, there is a degree of modish
+gaiety on such occasions, which is not altogether in character (at least
+to a picturesque eye,) with the solemnity of a scene betraying ...
+
+    "The grey and grief-worn aspect of old days!"
+
+     The military establishment of the castle is at present altogether a
+     sinecure; formerly this was the regular seat of the insular
+     government; but now it is quite deserted, save by the individual
+     who has the privilege of showing the place to strangers, and his
+     attendants.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE VILLAGE OF CARISBROOKE
+
+Is an extremely pretty place, and still very populous, though much less
+so than formerly, when it enjoyed the consequence of a CITY, guarded by
+the only fortress in the island to which the inhabitants could fly for
+refuge in the moment of invasion: it rises on a hill opposite that on
+which stand the venerable ruins of the Castle: and in the intervening
+valley a beautiful stream winds its course towards Newport, sufficiently
+copious to turn several mills--the springs supplying water highly
+esteemed for its purity. The church is of great antiquity: and its tower
+is a very handsome specimen of Gothic architecture, proudly relieving
+itself from the surrounding trees and habitations. There are several
+genteel residences, and a few good lodging-houses in the village, whose
+neatly dressed gardens, interspersed with lofty trees, and environed by
+the most agreeable scenery, give to the place altogether an uncommon air
+of rural beauty.
+
+      "How picturesque the view, where up the side
+    Of that steep hill, the roofs of russet thatch
+    Rise mix'd with trees, above whose swelling tops
+    Ascends the tall church-tower, and loftier still
+    The hill's extended ridge, crown'd with yellow corn--
+    While slow beneath the bank, the silver stream
+    Glides by the flowery isles and willow groves."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+NEWPORT.
+
+>>_To form an idea merely of the Town, it will be sufficient for a
+stranger to pace two or three of the principal streets--the High-st. of
+course from one end to the other; he will then see the_ TOWN-HALL: _the
+old_ PARISH-CHURCH, _situated in the Corn-market; the public_ LIBRARY
+_in the Beast-market; and the ancient_ GRAMMAR-SCHOOL. _The most
+inviting short walks are over_ MONTJOY'S _to Carisbrooke_--_to the top
+of_ PAN DOWN--_and to Hurststake, on the banks of the_ RIVER, _at high
+tide_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEWPORT is allowed by most travellers to be as clean and pretty a
+country-town as any in the kingdom. The houses are of a modern and
+respectable construction: the streets regular and well paved, with
+sufficient descent to be always clean; and two copious streams water it
+on the east and west.
+
+Being closely surrounded by an amphitheatre of lofty downs, beautifully
+checquered by pasture and cultivation, cottages and villas,--the
+environs are of the most agreeable and inviting character, and the
+climate mild and salubrious; to those therefore who love to blend social
+intercourse with the pleasures of a cheerful yet quiet retreat, Newport
+presents many decided attractions. Years ago it was observed, that
+"there were few provincial towns which could afford independence more
+sources of rational enjoyment:" and since then there has been a great
+accession to the local means of intellectual pleasure, in respect of
+philosophical and literary institutions, private and professional
+reading societies, a Mechanics' Institution, circulating libraries, &c.
+&c. The places of public worship too have equally increased; being three
+episcopal (two of recent erection), two for Independents, two for
+Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, a Bible-Christian, a Roman-catholic,
+a Unitarian, and a Particular-baptist. There are five respectable inns,
+in the town (see the List), and two assembly-rooms.
+
+From its central position, it is well calculated for being the principal
+market-town, and, as it were the metropolis, of the island. On the
+Saturdays in particular, it presents a very animated scene: being
+frequented by all classes who are obliged to attend for the purposes of
+business, or upon judicial affairs; which would naturally induce many
+other parties to visit in favorable weather, were it only for the sake
+of a pleasant jaunt.
+
+These advantages of course give it a steady trade in almost every branch
+of business; and latterly the shops have exchanged much of their
+antiquated country appearance for the more imposing style of the
+fashionable towns,--where dazzling glare is resorted to as the chief
+attraction.
+
+     Though Newport does not depend, like the watering-places, upon the
+     annual influx of visitors engaging their lodgings for a season, yet
+     many of the best situated and most convenient houses are handsomely
+     fitted-up for the purpose; and should the river be ever
+     sufficiently deepened to admit a passage steamer to ply at regular
+     hours without regard to the state of the tide, Newport might defy
+     all competition, by the rapid improvement of its various local
+     capabilities which would necessarily follow.
+
+The River (called the Medina, from dividing the island in the middle,)
+is navigable from Newport to Cowes for vessels of sixty or seventy tons
+burthen, during high water. The banks are beautifully dressed with
+scattered groves and copse-wood: and interspersed with the arable fields
+and meadows are several churches, seats, villas, farms, and cottages, on
+either side: and as the lands rise rather boldly, the while scene is
+viewed to advantage from the water, and will be found to afford a very
+delightful trip on a summer's day, to or from Cowes; the party leaving
+by the returning tide after about two hours' stay at either place.
+
+     The gayest season at Newport is during the Whitsuntide Fair, and
+     three successive Saturdays at Michaelmas, the time when the
+     agricultural servants receive their wages, and re-engage for the
+     following year. The old custom of the female-servants assembling at
+     one part of the town, and the men at another, for the purpose of
+     engaging in new situations, is still partially kept up; these
+     occasions are familiarly called the "Bargain-fair Saturdays," the
+     middle or principal one falling on the first Saturday in October.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
+
+Of these the most conspicuous is the GUILDHALL, situated nearly in the
+centre of the town: it is rather a stately edifice of the Ionic order.
+Here the magistrates of the whole island meet every Saturday for
+hearing and deciding upon petty causes: and examining and committing
+prisoners to the Winchester assizes, or in, minor offences to take their
+trials at the quarter sessions for the Isle of Wight, formerly held at
+Winchester, but which are _now_ very properly _adjourned_, to save the
+inhabitants the great inconvenience and expense of crossing the water.
+There are also the quarter sessions for the borough; and that excellent
+institution, the County Court for the settlement of small debts.--In the
+area beneath the hall is held the Saturday's market for poultry, eggs,
+and butter.
+
+Another showy building is the ISLE OF WIGHT INSTITUTION, or permanent
+public Library, to which nearly all the neighbouring gentry subscribe.
+Besides the reading-room and library it contains a museum for local
+curiosities, &c. Temporary residents in the island may become
+subscribers for six months by a payment of 25s.
+
+The FREE-GRAMMAR SCHOOL is the only building claiming respect for its
+antiquity (besides the parish-church), situated in the street leading to
+the Cowes road: it was erected by subscription in the year 1619, and
+duly endowed. Though recently having been repaired throughout, its
+appearance is still rather picturesque: and possesses considerable
+historic interest, from the memorable conference held here between the
+parliamentary commissioners and king Charles the First, up to the
+unfortunate moment when he was unexpectedly seized and imprisoned in
+Hurst Castle.
+
+The PARISH-CHURCH is considered to be of the age of Henry II, as it is
+dedicated to St. Thomas-a-Becket: it is spacious, and has a fine lofty
+square tower; but there is nothing very particular either in its
+architecture or antiquities to call for minute description. The chief
+curiosities are ... the Pulpit, remarkable for its rich and ingenious
+carving: a monument to Sir Edward Horsey; and the spot where the second
+daughter of King Charles was buried: she died while the family were
+prisoners at Carisbrooke--and it was only by accident in the year 1793
+that the vault was discovered.--ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, built a few years
+ago on the south side of the town, at the foot of Montjoy's, is a
+conspicuous object in most points of view: and though plain in
+appearance, is very convenient in its interior arrangements: it is
+supported on the voluntary principle.
+
+Newport returns two members to parliament.--The number of inhabitants in
+the town, which has considerably extended beyond the limits of the
+borough, is about 7000. The corporate body consists of 24 members; but
+since the passing of the Municipal Reform Act, there can of course be
+nothing peculiar in their constitution of which the reader need be
+informed.
+
+     A Lace-factory on a very extensive scale is established just
+     without the town, on the east side, going to Ryde: in the town is
+     also an establishment which gives employment to many females in the
+     lace-embroidering process.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Environs of Newport_.
+
+The following villages and hamlets are nearly connected with, or
+gradually approximating the town:--
+
+On the eastern side, surrounded by meadows, is BARTON's VILLAGE, near
+which a neat little church has lately been opened, on the road to
+Ryde;--just above it is a gentleman's seat called BELLECROFT.
+
+SHIDE, half a mile to the south, is picturesquely seated at the foot of
+the steep and high down called Pan: the river Medina flows through the
+grounds, and there are several respectable villas in its immediate
+neighbourhood.
+
+Westward is the NEW VILLAGE, a street of genteel and comfortable houses
+(some of which are furnished for lodgings,) leading to Carisbrooke:
+behind it is the hill called Montjoy's, from whose lofty summit is
+obtained the most comprehensive view of Newport, its river, and the
+adjacent country. There is also a small hamlet on HUNNY-HILL, north of
+the town.
+
+FAIRLEE is a principal seat, a mile north of Newport. The house is large
+and of respectable appearance: standing at the head of an extensive and
+beautiful lawn which slopes to the eastern bank of the river, surrounded
+by close and open groves.
+
+About a mile from Newport, on the road to West Cowes, stands the HOUSE
+OF INDUSTRY, a very large building, generally containing between 500 and
+600 paupers; it includes within its walls a lunatic asylum, hospital,
+school, and chapel: and has an extensive garden attached.
+
+     Its internal affairs and out-door relief are regulated by a Board
+     of Guardians and Directors, consisting of a certain number of
+     respectable inhabitants, chosen from every parish in the
+     island,--under the provisions of an Act of Parliament obtained in
+     the year 1770 for the parochial consolidation of the whole island.
+     They are therefore independent of the Poor-law Commissioners, and
+     have adopted only as much as they thought proper of the general
+     statute.
+
+ALBANY BARRACKS, on the opposite side of the road, are capable of
+accommodating nearly 2000 troops--for a long time however the complement
+stationed here seldom exceeded a few companies, and for months together
+there would not be even a serjeant's guard: but latterly the depots of
+several regiments have been removed hither: so that there are now often
+from 1000 to 1500 men at the same time.
+
+Westward of the Barracks, bordering the Yarmouth road, is the extensive
+tract called PARKHURST FOREST, planted a few years since with oaks and
+Scotch firs, by order of Government.
+
+PARKHURST PRISON, to the north of the barracks, is an extensive range of
+buildings, dedicated to the benevolent purpose of reclaiming from
+infamy, if possible, a large number of juvenile criminals of the male
+sex.
+
+     To accomplish this truly desirable object (as _punishment_ ought
+     certainly to be _corrective_ in the best sense of the word), the
+     boys are regularly instructed by competent tradesmen, in such
+     branches of popular business as may be best suited to their
+     respective capacities: in conjunction with the most approved course
+     of common school-education. Particular attention is likewise paid
+     to the elevation of their moral character, so likely to be
+     permanently influenced by means of impressive friendly admonition,
+     the frequent inculcation and daily observance of religious duties,
+     and the exciting hope of reward for good behaviour in a mitigation
+     of their sentence: in short, by the most encouraging and kind
+     treatment, as far as is compatible with the strictness of prison
+     discipline. None therefore, but the thoroughly incorrigible, can
+     leave the institution without being greatly improved in their
+     habits and dispositions, if not altogether reformed; since _Order,
+     Cleanliness, Activity_, and _Industry_, must become almost natural
+     to them by the time they are discharged,--their understandings
+     cultivated, and their minds more or less impressed with the
+     sentiments of virtue and religion.
+
+     It would be injudicious to enter in detail on the subject of the
+     routine management, or the particular discipline adopted in the
+     respective wards: as very probably many alterations will be
+     introduced from time to time, as experiment and practice may
+     suggest: and moreover, as a "Report" is annually published by order
+     of Government (at a low price), containing the most minute
+     particulars in every department of the Asylum. For the same reasons
+     we have avoided any description of the architectural plan of the
+     prison, a pretty good idea of which may be formed in passing by on
+     the high-road.--We must however mention one fact that speaks highly
+     favorably of the salutary system adopted, namely, that during the
+     five years from the opening of the institution in 1838, there
+     occurred but two deaths among the boys, though the number averaged
+     about 250 at the same time.
+
+     The establishment has been visited by several eminent persons, who,
+     after having particularly examined the course adopted in every
+     department, expressed themselves so well pleased with its
+     management and beneficial tendency, that another building at a
+     short distance was erected in 1843; and altogether there is
+     sufficient room now for 700 or 800 delinquents. No stranger is
+     admitted without an order from the Home Secretary of State.
+
+The newly erected residences of the officers and other parties connected
+with the prison, barracks, &c., altogether form quite a village, known
+by the general term of Parkhurst.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+WEST COWES.
+
+>>_The transient visitor here should immediately inquire
+for the_ PARADE--_pass by the_ CASTLE _on the beach, to the
+bathing-machines_--_retrograde by the carriage-road under the_ NEW
+CHURCH--_mount the hill at the back of the Castle_--_reach the_ OLD
+CHURCH, _which is contiguous to_ NORTHWOOD PARK--_and then return, to
+cross over to E. Cowes_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The decided advantages of Cowes are ... its excellent shore for
+bathing--and its safe and commodious harbour--which recommend it
+strongly as a fashionable watering-place, and the resort of gentlemen
+fond of aquatic amusements.
+
+The appearance of this town from the water, particularly when approached
+by the passage from Southampton, is extremely pleasing; as the acclivity
+of the hill on which it stands is sufficiently bold to admit of the
+houses being seen above each other, as if built on a succession of
+terraces, while their starting formality is charmingly relieved by the
+intervening shrubberies and groups of lofty trees. To a stranger
+however, who may confine his walk to the streets just where he lands,
+this favorable impression would be almost obliterated,--for they are
+both narrow and crowded: though in these respects there is some
+improvement the further he goes either to the east or the west; but it
+is near the Castle that he must look for the greatest share of united
+beauty and respectability. The truth is, the lower part near the quay is
+of course occupied by tradesmen, for the advantages of business, and
+convenient landing-places; and as their houses stand at the edge of the
+water, many parties prefer their lodgings to those in the more open
+quarters on the top of the hill,--and many of them are therefore
+elegantly furnished for letting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE PARADE affords a delightful promenade, being on the water's edge.
+Here are several first-rate houses, standing at the foot of the steepest
+part of the hill, which is luxuriantly clothed with hanging shrubberies
+and several groups of majestic trees, presenting a perfectly unique
+picture of sylvan and marine beauty. The Royal Yacht-Club House, with
+its ample awning, and the very elegant Gothic villa of Sir John
+Hippesley, will be particularly noticed.
+
+[Illustration: THE CASTLE, WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT]
+
+THE CASTLE stands westward of the Parade: but were it not for a small
+battery of eleven guns in front, the stranger might search in vain for a
+fabric which he could identify as "a Castle," at least by any portion of
+its modernized architecture and surrounding embellishments. In fact, the
+original dwelling was a few years ago greatly enlarged--made a story
+higher--the open ground at the back inclosed (!)--with other alterations
+to render it a fit residence for nobility. It was built by king Henry
+VIII, about the same time as those at Sandown, Yarmouth, and Calshot,
+for the purpose of securing the coast against the then frequent attacks
+of pirates, as well as the more formidable invasions of the French.
+
+Beyond the Castle are the bathing-machines; the villas of Earl Belfast
+and Lord Grantham; and behind these several others built in various
+tasty styles, and acquiring a picturesque effect from being more or less
+screened by the copse-wood on the steep slope at their back. But the
+chief ornament of this quarter is the new Episcopal chapel, whether
+viewed near, or from a distance on the water,--being a chastely-elegant
+structure in the Gothic style, in a most commanding situation: it is
+private property. Should the stranger feel disposed to extend his walk
+for about a mile further on the beach, which he would find very
+agreeable--he will come to a gentleman's residence distinguished by an
+air of antiquity, named Westcliff, though the neighbourhood is popularly
+called EGYPT.
+
+     We make this remark, because there is a lane close by, which turns
+     up to the high-road from Cowes to Gurnard Bay, and by this road we
+     would recommend the visitor by all means to return, for the sake of
+     the magnificent prospect which it affords, and on the peculiar
+     character of which the _permanent_ attractions of the place so much
+     depend. But to do this justice, the reader must have recourse to
+     his Map. The most prominent objects are Calshot Castle, standing
+     apparently isolated at the mouth of Southampton Water, and the tall
+     tower of Eaglehurst, seated on the neighbouring shore.
+
+     By "permanent attractions," we mean, that many landscapes of the
+     most romantic character fail to attract our attention for any
+     considerable time, on _repeated_ visits, if destitute of those
+     ever-varying circumstances which have in some degree the interest
+     of NOVELTY such for instance as the rural, and more particularly
+     the _marine_ prospects of the Isle of Wight; these afford an
+     endless source of amusement to the speculative eye,--whether
+     directed to the soft and gradual changes on the variegated face of
+     Nature _under cultivation_, or to the more animated, and constantly
+     shifting scene exhibited in a crowded sea-port, or where there are
+     other safe and ample roadsteds for the heaviest ships of war. In
+     these advantages Cowes and Ryde stand pre-eminent.
+
+    "Scenes must he beautiful, which daily viewed,
+    Please daily, and whose novelty survives
+    Long knowledge, and the scrutiny of years--
+    Praise justly due to those that I describe"
+
+
+
+
+We are now supposed to have reached the top of the hill, where the old
+CHURCH is situated: this is a spacious, plain building, having a very
+tall square tower, as destitute of beauty as anything of the kind can
+well be: yet as it peers loftily above all the surrounding objects, is a
+great improvement to the outline of the hill, when viewed from any
+considerable distance. Contiguous to the crowded cemetery stands ...
+
+NORTHWOOD HOUSE, a large and elegant mansion in the Palladian style of
+architecture. The PARK is an extensive demesne, and profusely planted;
+there are however comparatively few of those venerable sylvan honors
+which constitute the beauty of park-scenery.
+
+On the eastern slope of the hill, where the high-road turns off for
+Newport, stands WESTHILL, a charming cottage-ornee in the centre of a
+smooth sloping lawn interspersed with magnificent elms and close
+shrubberies.--In the environs of Cowes are several other genteel
+residences: MOOR-HOUSE is distinguished by its Gothic pinnacles and
+commanding station: and near Gurnard Bay is a pretty retired seat,
+appropriately called WOOD-VALE.
+
+Besides the two churches, there are Catholic, Independent, and Wesleyan
+chapels. There are three large Hotels (see the List), and several minor
+places of good accommodation; reading-rooms, a Mechanics' Institution,
+&c.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+EAST COWES.
+
+>> _The town itself has nothing to interest a stranger: but in the
+vicinity are several first-rate seats and marine villas--the most
+distinguished being_ OSBORNE, NORRIS, _and_ EAST COWES CASTLE.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+This little town is separated from West Cowes by the river Medina, which
+here joins the sea. From the unexpected concurrence of various favorable
+circumstances, it is looking-up to be a place of some importance: the
+value of property has already considerably advanced, and trade in
+general improved. It has one good Hotel, several respectable
+lodging-houses: a neat episcopalian church, and an Independent chapel.
+Having a large shipwright's yard, and a number of marine stores, wharfs,
+&c., where merchant-ships lie alongside to take in or unload their
+cargoes, it often exhibits much of the bustling appearance of a sea-port
+town. There is a private landing-place near the ferry, for the
+accommodation of Her Majesty. The Custom-house has been removed to the
+other side of the harbour.
+
+The immediate neighbourhood of East Cowes has long been extremely
+beautiful, from being almost entirely covered with charming seats and
+villas, whose luxuriant groves and shrubberies give the scenery an
+uncommonly rich effect: and her Majesty having made this part of the
+island her marine residence, it now possesses a proud distinction in
+point of interest with the British public.
+
+A stranger should make his perambulation by first ascending the hill by
+the _old_ carriage-road, passing several villas (see list) secluded by
+dense shrubberies and large trees; a circumstance little to be
+regretted, as their chief boast is the amenity of their location. But
+through the tall plantations on the right our eye will be delightfully
+attracted by the picturesque turrets of East Cowes Castle, and the
+surrounding beautiful grounds. At the pretty lodge-entrance to the
+castle, the road divides,--the left-hand branch running to Norris, the
+right to Osborne and Newport; and in about eight or ten minutes' further
+walk, we can return by the new road through "East Cowes Park."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: OSBORNE, ISLE OF WIGHT]
+
+_The Principal Seats near East Cowes._
+
+OSBORNE, the property of HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, is entitled, equally
+from public interest and its own importance, to the first notice under
+this head.--The situation is everyway eligible for the _marine_
+residence of a sovereign of the British Isles: for it commands a most
+extensive and _animated_ prospect, including Spithead and other naval
+stations: has a beautiful sea-beach (with a private landing-place); and
+is sheltered by extensive woods and plantations. The original seat was a
+plain family mansion surrounded by park-like grounds, which have been
+extended by the purchase of several farms--including BARTON (whose fine
+old Elizabethan manor-house has received a complete and judicious
+reparation): so that the estate is now most conveniently bounded on the
+west by the high-road from East Cowes to Newport; on the south by a
+branch of the same road to Ryde; on the east by a sheltered cove called
+King's Quay (as tradition will have it from the circumstance of King
+John there concealing himself for a time when opposed by the barons):
+and on the north-east by the beautiful Solent Channel. Thus compassed by
+the sea and the best roads in the island, it extends from north to south
+about two miles and a half, by nearly two miles from east to west;
+enjoying the most delightful variety of scenery, from the simple picture
+of rural life to the grandeur of our NAVAL GLORY, and the majesty of the
+ocean itself.
+
+     The quality of the soil differs very considerably; but the worst is
+     well adapted for oak-plantations; and the thorough draining and
+     other improvements now carrying on will make the whole admirably
+     suited for agricultural pursuits, to which H.R.H. the Prince
+     Consort is very partial. A great part of the estate is enclosed by
+     a park-fence; and through the luxuriant woods and undulating
+     grounds, several miles of excellent private carriage-roads have
+     been constructed, much more being in progress.
+
+The PALACE occupies the site of the old house; it is in the Palladian
+style (which so admirably admits the application to domestic
+architecture of the most beautiful features of the Grecian orders).
+Within the ballustrade of its lofty flat roof is a charming promenade in
+fine weather.
+
+The flag-tower is 107 feet in height, the clock-tower 90, the first
+terrace-wall 17, and the second 10. The Royal Apartments are contained
+in the loftiest part of the building--they are handsome and spacious,
+and standing altogether in advance, command on every side the most
+uninterrupted views: at the back is the flag-tower, communicating with
+an open corridor which extends the whole of the north-west face of the
+building; and on the other side of the tower is the carriage-entrance,
+opening on pleasure-grounds adorned with the choicest varieties of
+ornamental shrubs--thriving with a luxuriance which promises well for
+the appearance of the estate, when the whole shall have been finished.
+The builder is T. Cubitt, esq.; but the design, we believe, was
+principally furnished by His Royal Highness Prince Albert himself--whose
+taste, and knowledge of the fine arts, well qualify him for the
+undertaking.
+
+     As it would be almost impossible to convey by verbal description a
+     correct idea of the general appearance of this noble structure, we
+     beg to refer our readers to the annexed Engraving--and also to the
+     Views of Osborne, recently published in the "Vectis Scenery," and
+     which may be purchased separately at 1s. each.
+
+NORRIS is a noble specimen of the castellated mansion, having been
+built in imitation of an ancient Norman fabric--massive in its
+construction, and remarkable for a stern simplicity of style disdaining
+all minute decoration. From this circumstance, and some of the loftiest
+towers being enveloped in the most luxuriant ivy, the whole building has
+so venerable an air of antiquity, even when closely examined, that we
+can hardly suppose it to be the production of modern days: and enjoying
+too as it does an uncommonly fine position on the most northern hill of
+the island, its general aspect is truly magnificent in every point of
+view. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the castle commands a most
+interesting marine prospect.
+
+Some of the rooms are of elegant dimensions, and the arrangement of the
+whole considered good--such indeed might be expected from the reputation
+of the architect, the late Mr. Wyatt. The stables, &c., are also on a
+very ample scale, and in the same plain, substantial style as the
+castle, for which they have not unfrequently been taken by strangers at
+the first glance.
+
+The grounds are now well timbered: the plantations beautifully dressing
+the steep slope even to the water's edge. The utmost privacy might be
+enjoyed, for there is the accommodation of a good landing-place, and a
+carriage-road thence to the house.
+
+     Norris was the property of the late Lord Henry Seymour, who was
+     engaged many years in its construction, and must in the course of a
+     long period have expended immense sums in improvements that may be
+     said to be now buried from our view. After his demise, it was two
+     seasons chosen for the residence of their R.H. the Duchess of Kent
+     and the Princess Victoria (during which time the latter improved
+     remarkably in her health): and has since been purchased on very
+     moderate terms by R. Bell, esq.--who greatly extended the scope of
+     the grounds by fresh purchases of land, especially by some
+     belonging to the Osborne estate--previously to her Majesty's
+     negociating for its possession.
+
+EAST COWES CASTLE, which enjoys a truly enviable site (for it combines
+an uncommon degree of shelter with the most extensive and _animated_
+prospect), is built in the bold style usually termed the Moorish, and
+has three handsome fronts of varied elevations, with a tasteful
+diversity of towers, mantled more or less by the most luxuriant ivy, and
+a great variety of elegant flowering plants. The Conservatory is a
+splendid addition; and the grounds, though not extensive, are very
+beautiful.
+
+     East Cowes Castle was built by, and continued for many years to be
+     the favorite residence of the late John Nash, esq., and was with
+     him a sort of architectural pet, receiving from time to time such
+     additions and alterations as appeared to be improvements to the
+     general design, or called for on the score of enlarged
+     accommodation; a circumstance certainly not calculated to insure
+     the greatest amount of domestic convenience (as regards the size
+     and arrangement of the rooms), though no doubt contributing largely
+     to the picturesque effect of the exterior. On Mr. Nash's demise it
+     was purchased by Earl Shannon,--and after his death by N. Barwell,
+     esq., who in 1846 sold off all the furniture, and valuable
+     productions of art which adorned this beautiful object of interest
+     to visitors.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+"EAST COWES PARK"
+
+Is the title of a very extensive building speculation, which comprehends
+above 100 acres of land, lying between Osborne and East Cowes. This
+tract was a few years back laid out for the erection of a number of
+elegant villa-residences, each to be surrounded with its garden and
+shrubbery, yet to command a delightful marine view. Excellent roads were
+made, having on either side a foot-path, flower-border, and neat iron
+pallisade; handsome gateways erected; and a pier, botanic garden, and
+other attractive improvements commenced or projected. The speculation
+did not however meet the success it merited, and comparatively few
+houses have as yet been built.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+THE HARBOUR,
+
+To which Cowes is principally indebted for its origin and present
+importance, enjoys a high character for safety as well as convenience:
+it is used by vessels of heavy tonnage, either in waiting for a
+favorable wind, or for the purpose of repairing damages sustained at
+sea; and after stormy weather, is often crowded with ships of various
+nations, in addition to those registered at the place--this being the
+port for the whole island.
+
+There are spacious dockyards, patent slips, &c., both at East and West
+Cowes: at the latter, excellent dry docks. The naval builders have long
+held a high reputation for skill: several men-of-war were built here
+during the last century; and of late years numerous beautiful
+pleasure-yachts, merchantmen, sloops of war, and other vessels--including
+the _Medina_, a first-rate steam-ship (lost on the West India passage),
+and some large steamers for various foreign governments.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     THE ROYAL-YACHT-SQUADRON
+
+     Make Cowes their port of rendezvous: they contribute largely to the
+     maritime gaiety of the place, and give particular classes of
+     tradesmen an extensive share of employment; but the town altogether
+     does not, it is said, derive that degree of fostering patronage
+     from their presence which might be expected. The _Royal Thames
+     Yacht-club_ often make this their summer-station.
+
+
+     THE REGATTA
+
+     Generally takes place in August, and is an exciting source of
+     hilarity with the inhabitants of Cowes, as well as numerous
+     visitors from every part of the island and opposite coast,--should
+     the weather prove favorable at the time. The sailing-matches are
+     now mostly confined to the members of the Royal Yacht-squadrons:
+     and it is to be regretted, that owing to the distance which they
+     sail, and the number of days engaged, comparatively little pleasure
+     is afforded to the mere spectator: there is however usually one
+     day's continued amusement--when sailing and rowing matches for
+     liberal subscription-prizes likewise take place between the local
+     watermen, &c.--excellent bands of music attend,--and in the evening
+     there is a brilliant display of fire-works, both from the shore and
+     from the yachts in various parts of the harbour. On these occasions
+     the appearance of the whole is animated beyond description; and to
+     a person from the country, the exhibition of such a numerous
+     assemblage of the most beautiful vessels in the world must prove a
+     lively gratification, for they are of every size and variety of
+     rig, from the stately ship of 4 or 500 tons burthen down to the
+     yawl of only 10.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     Cowes lies extremely convenient for parties fond of aquatic trips:
+     for which purpose a number of experienced watermen ply excellent
+     boats: they are most frequently engaged in the short and pleasant
+     excursions to Beaulieu, Netley, Southampton (on the opposite
+     coast), and Newport; sometimes to Alum Bay, and even for a voyage
+     round the island.
+
+     The bathing here is considered very excellent: particularly so at
+     W. Cowes, from the boldness and pebbly character of the beach,
+     admitting the machines to be put in requisition in all states of
+     the tide,--a very great advantage. There are also hot and other
+     baths for the use of invalids, both at the machines and at certain
+     parts of the town.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+_The Road from East Cowes to Ryde._
+
+WHIPPINGHAM CHURCH stands near the second mile-stone, on the ascent of a
+hill rising from the eastern bank of the Medina: it is perhaps the
+neatest _old_ ecclesiastical structure in the island, and is frequently
+attended by her Majesty and Prince Albert when residing at Osborne.
+Close by are the Parsonages and PADMORE HOUSE, embosomed in groves, and
+commanding an extensive prospect--the nearest object on the opposite
+side of the river being the ancient though plain church of Northwood.
+Altogether this is a very pleasing rural spot, and to visit it will make
+the difference of only a few minutes in diverging from the regular road.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+WOOTTON-BRIDGE.
+
+Here we pass over an inlet of the sea, indifferently called Fishbourne
+Creek or Wootton River; the cottages border the road on either side, and
+have a remarkably clean and comfortable appearance. There are also a few
+good houses: the Parsonage, though rather secluded, enjoys a charming
+marine prospect; and _Kite-hill_ will be known by its antique aspect and
+screen of lofty firs. But the pride of the place is FERNHILL, a
+first-rate seat: the house is built in the light Gothic style, and
+stands at the head of an extensive lawn sloping to the water,
+interspersed with groups of trees and flourishing plantations.
+
+     We shall often see the prospect-tower of Fernhill peering above the
+     masses of variegated foliage; and indeed the whole has much the air
+     of a religious structure, enjoying one of those happy localities
+     which distinguished such retreats of former days. The opposite
+     banks of the river, or rather lake, are clothed with the finest
+     oak-woods in the island, feathering from the very water's edge; and
+     the whole neighbourhood presents the rich appearance of an
+     extensive forest covering hill and dale. Should therefore the
+     visitor reach this spot at the favorable concurrence of high water
+     on a calm sunny day, he will agree with us that the whole forms a
+     splendid landscape,--_rock_ being in fact the only feature denied
+     to make it perfect.
+
+     Excellent roads have recently been made (by the proprietor of the
+     estate,) on the west side of the river, below the bridge: affording
+     a very pleasant drive; and as they open many delightful sites, will
+     probably cause a considerable accession of buildings in that
+     direction.
+
+     At the mouth of the creek on the east side is a large hamlet called
+     FISHHOUSE, including a dockyard, where several frigates have been
+     built.
+
+WOOTTON COMMON is a mile nearer Newport: and affords an instance within
+a few years of a wild tract of gorse and brambles being profitably
+converted to tillage and garden. Here too are several scattered
+dwellings forming an improving hamlet; and in one of them (called in
+courtesy _Landscape Cottage_,) was produced _in all its stages_ the
+present little work, as well as its other kindred publications.
+
+About midway between Wootton and Ryde, on the sea side of the road, we
+pass the remains of
+
+
+QUARR ABBEY,
+
+The most considerable ecclesiastical establishment ever founded in the
+Isle of Wight, which had, like every other part of Great Britain,
+previous to the Reformation, its full share of monastic and other
+religious institutions. This was among the first settlements of the
+Cistercian Order in England, having been built in the 12th century; was
+most amply endowed, and had several illustrious persons buried in the
+chapel, to whose memory sumptuous monuments were erected; but after its
+dissolution, the property was purchased by a merchant of Southampton,
+and the sacred edifice _reduced for the value of the bare materials_.
+
+     The merchant's son afterwards sold the estate to the Lord Chief
+     Justice, Sir Thomas Fleming, with whose descendants it still
+     remains. Some of the outer walls are still extant, and must have
+     circumscribed at least 20 acres. A foot-path passes through the
+     grounds to Ryde, &c.
+
+     Of this once-magnificent establishment little now remains; merely
+     portions of the appendant offices, which were converted into barns,
+     &c., for farm-purposes. What was spared in the moment of ruthless
+     spoliation, lay long buried under heaps of rubbish and weeds--till
+     a few years since, when one of the occupiers, with laudable zeal,
+     rescued from total annihilation the few remaining fragments, which
+     are now open to the view of strangers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     The other Religious Structures
+
+     Scattered through the island were ... a Priory at St. Helen's; one
+     at Appuldurcombe; one at St. Cross, near Newport; and another at
+     Carisbrooke, vestiges of which may still be traced; together with a
+     great number of oratories, chantries, chapels, and religious
+     houses, amounting in the whole to 70 or 80, exclusive of the
+     regular parish-churches;--and yet scarcely any of these interesting
+     monuments have survived their reckless doom to ruin and neglect;
+     not even a spiry fragment sufficiently large or romantic to form a
+     pleasing subject for the pencil, invite the mind to contemplation,
+     or aid the poet's retrospective muse.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BINSTEAD, to which there is a good foot-path from Quarr through the
+woods, is about a mile westward of Ryde. Several genteel residences,
+mostly built in a pleasing cottage-style, adorned by groups of trees and
+shrubs, are scattered over a wide space of broken ground, where
+extensive stone-quarries have been worked for many centuries. It is a
+favorite walk with the inhabitants of Ryde, across the fields to the
+church (not seen from the road), which has lately been considerably
+enlarged and improved. The names of the respective villas will be found
+in the List of Seats.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+RYDE.
+
+     >> _The best may of seeing this populous town, by those who have
+     little inclination, or perhaps less time, for perambulation is,
+     from the Pier, to enquire first for_ BRIGSTOCK TERRACE--_walk on
+     for about five minutes still westward--returning, pass by the_
+     CHURCH, _and round the_ TOWN-HALL, _and Market-place_, ST. JAMES'S
+     CHAPEL, _and the Theatre;--look into the_ ARCADE, _a little
+     below;--traverse the street nearly opposite the theatre, which will
+     open the eastern part of the town, where there is a handsome_ NEW
+     CHURCH--_and the very agreeable Environs in the direction of Appley
+     and St. John's, which ought to be visited if time could be spared,
+     going first on the beach, and returning by the high-road, a circuit
+     of about two miles._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+Ryde now ranks the first town in the island for the number of its
+elegant _modern_ erections, both public and private; and if building
+should be carried on with an equal degree of spirit for a few years
+more, it will also be considerably the most populous. It occupies two
+sides of a lofty hill, falling with a regular descent to the sea on the
+north, opposite Portsmouth, from which it is about five miles across.
+This short passage, from its perfect safety and general convenience,
+proves a great local advantage, being performed several times a-day by
+superior steam-vessels in about half an hour. But besides these
+established means of conveyance, large-sized wherries (most excellent
+sea-boats,) are in constant attendance to take parties across on
+moderate terms, or for hire by the day upon any aquatic trip, even to
+Brighton.
+
+The town used formerly to be distinguished into Upper and Lower Ryde,
+from having several fields between, but now it is only the difference of
+position which calls for any term of distinction; for where the green
+meadows then formed the separation, is now the most closely built upon;
+and at the beginning of this century, Yelf's Hotel stood a new and
+isolated object.
+
+The principal streets are very open, clean, and well-paved; regularly
+disposed, most of them crossing each other nearly at right angles.
+Several of the handsomest run parallel almost in a direct line to the
+beach, thus affording the very desirable advantage of an interesting
+sea-view.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE PIER being the first object to interest a stranger, and having
+contributed more than anything else to the advancement of the town, is
+well entitled to priority of notice.
+
+     Up to the year 1814, when it was constructed by a company in
+     subscription shares of L.50 each, landing or embarking was rendered
+     generally a miserable task, except during very favorable weather,
+     at the moment of high tide. The practice then was, to cram the
+     passengers promiscuously into a common luggage-cart, till it was
+     drawn out upon the almost level sands sufficiently far for a large
+     wherry to float alongside, into which they were then transferred,
+     and conveyed to the sailing-packet, perhaps lying off at some
+     considerable distance. The reader will readily believe that this
+     united cart and boat process of reaching the vessel or shore could
+     not be very inviting at the best of times; but it was really
+     terrific to weak and timid persons during the concurrence of a
+     heavy rain, and the tide perhaps at its lowest ebb!--to say nothing
+     of the horrors of a dark and squally night.
+
+     The length of the Pier is now nearly half a mile (being double the
+     extent it was originally), having had 500 feet added in the year
+     1824: the same augmentation again in 1833; and in 1842 it received
+     the crowning addition of a most spacious and well constructed HEAD,
+     which was rendered everyway more convenient for passengers landing
+     or embarking. This last improvement must afford a most delightful
+     accommodation for the gentry who prefer the pier for their usual
+     promenade; and where, from the great extent it stretches out into
+     the open sea, those invalids who are precluded from exercise, may
+     more conveniently enjoy the invigorating sea-breeze. It is firmly
+     constructed of timber: has four or five landing-places at different
+     distances to suit the state of the tide: a strong railing on each
+     side; and is furnished with several open and covered seats.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS_.
+
+The TOWN-HALL and MARKET-HOUSE affords the best proof of the public
+spirit of the inhabitants of Hyde in regard to local improvements: for
+this handsome edifice is on a scale to accommodate three or four times
+the present population. It was first opened in the year 1831: and the
+commissioners for improving the town endeavoured to establish a
+permanent market for cattle, &c., to be held in the large open space in
+front, but the attempt proved abortive--Newport lying so much more
+conveniently for the general resort of agriculturists and tradesmen from
+every quarter of the island.--It is remarkable, however, considering the
+spirit of the inhabitants for public improvements, that it should have
+been left to the year 1840, before the town was lighted with gas!
+
+The ARCADE is an elegant piece of architecture, though it does not make
+that imposing figure of its exterior, which the visitor would expect,
+when previously told that it cost at least L10,000. It contains 14
+shops, and a very large room for the exhibition and sale of works of
+art: every portion being finished in the best style of workmanship.
+
+     This bold undertaking for a private individual, we are sorry to
+     say, has not yet realized a remunerating return. The mistake seems
+     to have been in fixing upon a site which had no local advantages to
+     recommend it for a fashionable promenade; nor likely ever to become
+     a much-frequented thoroughfare, popular and busy. Moreover, the
+     tradesmen generally find it more to their advantage to engage
+     respectable houses in the best streets, where they can profitably
+     let lodgings, and make a much more attractive exhibition of their
+     goods. These remarks will also serve to explain, why comparatively
+     so few persons avail themselves of the extensive accommodation
+     which the Market-house affords.
+
+BRIGSTOCK TERRACE is a fine range of first-rate houses built according
+to a very judicious, uniform design, furnished by the late Mr. J.
+Sanderson. They command a beautiful marine prospect, as they stand at
+the head of a sloping lawn-like field, interspersed with several oaks
+and elms: indeed the terrace is the most conspicuous part of Ryde when
+viewed from the sea.
+
+On the west side of the town too is a very spacious square, comprising a
+great variety of tastefully-embellished mansions; indeed in every
+direction a number of elegant houses are constructing,--tenants being
+found for most of them even before they are completed.
+
+     A very few years ago it was quite an easy task to point out by
+     distinctive marks all the most important houses--it was only to
+     name _Westmont_, and the two unobtrusive villas of the Duke of
+     Buckingham and Earl Spencer. The stranger could then have no
+     difficulty in discriminating these: but now, to give a List of all
+     the residences that are entitled to notice with an equal share of
+     pretensions, however judiciously described, would prove perfectly
+     futile, and only calculated to mislead the stranger.
+
+CHURCHES and other public places of divine worship.--These of course
+increase with the population; for only as late as the year 1827, the old
+chapel, now distinguished by its graceful spire (and seen at the back of
+the terrace), was so inadequate in its accommodations, as to require
+being considerably enlarged: and in the same year another was commenced
+as a private speculation by Hughes Hughes, esq., this is a long, low
+edifice, remarkable for its neat interior: a third has since been
+erected on the eastern side of the town, of a handsome design both
+inside and out, and very conspicuous from its open situation and lofty
+spire:--all three being episcopalian chapels of ease to Newchurch. The
+Independents, Wesleyans, and Primitive-methodists have also their
+respective chapels, and one for Catholic worship has been lately built,
+of the most elaborate style of architecture, especially the interior.
+
+THE FAMILY HOTELS, INNS, &C.--Of these there are several, of various
+ranks, some of them vying in splendor and extent of accommodation with
+the best in the county (see the List). The lodging-houses are of course
+very numerous, and in every grade, from the humble _jessamy_ or _myrtle_
+cottage at 20 or 30 shillings per week, to the lordly mansion at as many
+guineas.
+
+During the latter summer months, the theatre is usually opened by a
+talented company of comedians. The shops are generally very imposingly
+fitted-up and well stocked: and in the literary and fancy lines are
+several excellent establishments--news-rooms, circulating-libraries,
+bazaars, &c.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+     _Aquatic Amusements, &c. at Ryde._
+
+     THE ROYAL VICTORIA YACHT-CLUB, established in 1845, numbers amongst
+     its members many gentlemen of the highest rank, and owners of as
+     fine yachts as any in the world. Their Club-house is a handsome and
+     commodious building on the beach west of the Pier; and they have an
+     annual Regatta in the latter part of the summer, when several
+     pieces of plate, etc., are sailed for by the vessels of this and
+     other clubs. There is also a TOWN REGATTA held about the same time,
+     for the purpose of giving encouragement to the skilful and
+     deserving watermen: the sailing matches being between the wherries
+     of the place, which are of a large size, and esteemed by nautical
+     men to be the finest sea-boats in the kingdom: and as the race is
+     confined to a circuit which can be distinctly seen from the whole
+     of the Pier, there is as much interest excited as if the prizes
+     were contested between larger craft. Rowing-matches also take
+     place; good bands attend--and the diversions of the day usually end
+     with a splendid display of fireworks, a dinner, or a ball. In
+     short, nothing can exceed the gaiety of the scene, when the weather
+     is at all fine: as it is made the occasion of a general festivity
+     by the inhabitants--and resorted to as a holiday by great numbers
+     from Newport, and the eastern parts of the island.
+
+THE SHORE presents, when the tide is at its lowest ebb, a wide expanse
+of sand, stretching for miles both eastward and westward of the Pier,
+preserving upon an average the breadth of a mile: here and there
+interspersed with ledges of rock, and the banks beautifully feathered
+with groves and shrubberies. In some parts the sand has accumulated over
+the mud in sufficient quantity to bear wheel-carriages (which is the
+case near the Pier): and is found to be gradually increasing both in
+depth and extent. The best time to take a walk upon the shore is
+directly after the tide has begun to ebb,--for the sand is then firm and
+cool to the feet; but after a few hours' powerful sun in calm weather,
+it is rendered sufficiently hot to give the flowing sea almost the
+temperature of a warm bath, on which account the bathing here is
+preferred by many parties to a bolder shore.
+
+     That part called the DUVER (now built on,) was remarkable as having
+     been chosen for interring the crew of the Royal George, a ship of
+     108 guns, which sank at Spithead on August 29th, 1782, by a sudden
+     squall, while undergoing a careening of her bottom, when nearly
+     1000 persons perished.
+
+Near the Pier are the bathing-machines, well attended, and in full
+operation; together with hot, tepid, and other baths for invalids.
+
+     THE PROSPECT.--As the _amenity_ of every situation depends, we
+     consider, greatly on the range and beauty of the view which it
+     commands, we here give a faint sketch of the one obtained from Ryde
+     and its neighbourhood: by which, however imperfect, it will be seen
+     by the reader, that few prospects in England can surpass this,
+     perhaps even in point of pleasing composition--but certainly not as
+     _a perpetual source of the most amusing observation_.
+
+     The foreground of the Pier generally presents a most animated
+     picture,--crowded with promenading fashionables; and surrounded by
+     numerous wherries, steam-packets, and other craft, at anchor or
+     gaily sailing about; a busy scene which forms a striking contrast
+     to the quiet sylvan charms of the home-coast extending many miles
+     east and west, and embellished by several delightful villas and
+     other marine residences, among which are Osborne Palace (indicated
+     by a lofty prospect-tower),--and Norris Castle, just beyond. We
+     have the Solent Channel seen from here to peculiar advantage,--on
+     the one hand contracting to the appearance of a noble river, and on
+     the other expanding and uniting with the open sea. The far-famed
+     anchorage of Spithead occupies the centre, with St. Helen's to the
+     eastward, for ships of war; and westward, the Motherbank and
+     Stokes's Bay, for merchantmen and colliers; hourly altering their
+     position with the changing tides, and their number as suddenly
+     increased or diminished with every adverse or propitious breeze.
+
+    "Majestic o'er the sparkling tide,
+      See the tall vessel sail,
+    With swelling winds, in shadowy pride,
+      A swan before the gale!"
+
+     The eye is soon caught by a splendid range of houses called
+     Anglesea Villa, on the opposite nearest shore, contiguous to
+     Monkton Fort; and is thence carried to immense mass of brick
+     buildings that form the grand naval hospital of Haslar, with the
+     town of Gosport in its rear; opposite which are the celebrated
+     fortifications of Portsmouth, with its noble harbour affording calm
+     security to the maritime glory of England:--Southsea Castle stands
+     a little to the eastward, and beyond that is the low level of
+     Hayling Island, where several handsome houses have recently been
+     built.
+
+     The line of Portsdown hills, on one of which is Nelson's monumental
+     pillar, usually bounds the view to the north; but in clear weather
+     our range of perspective embraces a portion of the South Downs
+     which is crossed by the London road near Petersfield: and on the
+     left, the beautiful retiring banks of Southampton Water to the town
+     to itself, backed by the woodland heights of the New Forest;--while
+     to the right it extends to the spire of Chichester Cathedral; but
+     with the aid of a glass even to Beachy-head, which appears in the
+     east like a faint cloud upon the horizon of the sea.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ENVIRONS OF RYDE
+
+May be characterized as being beautifully rural, enlivened by peeps or
+open prospects of the sea: for this is the best wooded quarter of the
+island, adorned with several charming seats and villas, and intersected
+by good roads.
+
+     But perhaps it ought to be here explained to the stranger, that by
+     _good_ roads, in the Isle of Wight, is only meant that they are
+     kept in tolerably good order: not that they are level, or even
+     gently undulating: for the very charm of the island consists in its
+     sudden alternation of hill and dale, producing a constant change of
+     scenery: one moment you may be enclosed in a sylvan theatre; and
+     the next minute stand on the brow of a hill, sufficiently lofty to
+     command an interminable panoramic prospect of land and sea.
+
+We will first conduct our friends along the shore _eastward_ of the
+town, for the distance of two or three miles. The principal objects to
+the westward have been already noticed (p. 41, &c.)
+
+APPLEY (about half a mile,) is a marine villa celebrated for its
+amenity: hence an excellent road to St. John's, where several very
+eligible sites for building on are to be disposed of: and a neat little
+church has recently been erected.
+
+ST. CLARE, another delightful residence: the house built in the
+castellated style: and the pleasure-grounds and very extensive gardens,
+truly exquisite.
+
+PUCKPOOL, a sequestered Swiss Cottage.
+
+SPRING-VALE, a pretty hamlet composed of lodging-houses.--A
+carriage-road hence by the back of St. Clare.
+
+SEA-VIEW (two miles), another pleasant hamlet, containing several
+lodging-houses: and having near it the beautiful villas of SEA-FIELD,
+FAIRY-HILL, SEA-GROVE, &c. A road hence to Nettlestone Green.
+
+The grounds of the Priory extend eastward for about a mile: the sandy
+beach the whole of the distance is remarkably fine.
+
+     >> _From the above it is apparent, that a Party may have a very
+     pleasant saunter just as far as may prove agreeable, according to
+     their ability for walking; as there is a choice of roads by which
+     to return, thus making a circuit of any extent they like._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We now start by the regular carriage-road for the rocky coast (commonly
+called the Back of the island), and first reach a hamlet on the rise of
+the next hill, named OAK-FIELD, and then ...
+
+ST. JOHN's, a first-rate seat,--mansion plain, but admirably situated
+for prospect, and screened by beautiful wood, as will appear in the
+road making several sudden turns, over-arched by lofty trees, especially
+the silver fir. Shortly the tower of St. Clare appears on our left:
+WESTRIDGE in a valley on the right; and several other minor seats are
+successively passed,--some partially seen through the woods and
+shrubberies, and others quite secluded.
+
+     >> From the hamlet called _Nettlestone Green_ (about two miles from
+     Ryde,) a carriage-road leads down to Sea-view, by which the party
+     may on another occasion return on the beach to Ryde, passing the
+     back of St. Clare.
+
+THE PRIORY is three miles from Ryde: it takes its name from having been
+the site of an ancient monastic cell--is a spacious, plain mansion, and
+ranks among the finest seats in the island: here too, much of the wood
+is uncommonly fine, notwithstanding its exposure to the sea-air.
+Arriving at ...
+
+ST. HELEN's GREEN,
+
+We are presented with a beautiful view of the Peninsula of Bembridge,
+Brading Haven, and the British Channel. The houses are mostly scattered
+round a large verdant square (which gives the name): and a spacious
+building, to answer the purposes both of a parish school and chapel, has
+been lately supplied by the liberality of a resident gentleman. But the
+chief object of curiosity here is THE OLD CHURCH-TOWER, _standing now at
+the water's edge_, and still struggling against the further
+"encroachment of the sea," which in the year 1719, was such as to oblige
+the parishioners to build another place of worship in a more secure
+situation: this we passed near the Priory. The old tower was
+strengthened with a thick facing of brick-work, and painted white; for
+it was required to be preserved as a landmark to ships entering the
+roadsted. There is something extremely tranquil and pleasing in the
+whole of the scene,--and though the composition is simple, forms an
+excellent subject for a sketch.
+
+     >> The Party may either cross the ferry with their vehicle to
+     Bembridge--for there is a good horse-boat in attendance, and drive
+     round Yaverland and Brading; or they may go to the latter place at
+     once; returning over the downs to Ashey Sea-mark, which affords an
+     almost unrivaled prospect,--and hence descend towards Ryde, making
+     altogether a charming circuit of about sixteen miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BRADING HAVEN
+
+[Illustration: BRADING HAVEN, _As viewed from Bembridge Mill looking
+across to the Town of Brading, Nunwell, &c._ ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+Exhibits during high water the beautiful appearance of an extensive
+lake: but at the recess of the tide, a mere waste of sand and ooze,
+comprehending above 800 acres.
+
+     As the sea comes through a very narrow inlet at St. Helen's,
+     several unsuccessful attempts have been made to recover from its
+     usurpation so valuable a tract of land:--in 1630 the famous Sir H.
+     Middleton was engaged, and indeed succeeded for a short time, by
+     means of a bank of peculiar construction. But the sea brought up so
+     much sand, ooze, and weeds, as to choke up the passage for the
+     discharge of the fresh water, which accumulating, in a wet season
+     and a spring-tide, made an irreparable breach, and thus ended an
+     experiment which _then_ cost altogether about L7000. "And after
+     all, the nature of the ground did not answer the expectations of
+     the undertakers; for though that part adjoining Brading proved
+     tolerably good, nearly one-half of it was found to be a light
+     running sand." But it should be observed, that previous to the
+     above attempt, several of the rich meadows contiguous to the haven
+     were at different times taken in.
+
+     One circumstance was very remarkable: namely, A WELL, cased with
+     stone, was discovered near the middle of the haven;--an
+     incontestible evidence, that at some remote period, the spot was in
+     a very different condition.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     To the very remarkable CHANGE which appears (by the discovery of a
+     well,) to have taken place in the condition of the haven--and the
+     threatened existence of St. Helen's Church, from the "encroachment
+     of the sea,"--we beg to call the attention of our more reflecting
+     readers. History and tradition are silent as to the cause; and the
+     popular opinion of the present day briefly dismisses the question
+     by ascribing it to an increased elevation of the sea. But this
+     hypothesis is not supported by the appearance of the coast
+     immediately to the westward of the haven, where some creeks or
+     inlets _have become dry_; a circumstance which induced the Rev. P.
+     Wyndham, who wrote almost the first intelligent Guide to the
+     island, to conclude that there actually had been a secession of
+     tides in this quarter; yet, singular enough, he makes no allusion
+     either to the haven or the church. Now as there is really no
+     evidence whatever in the neighbourhood that would lead us to
+     suppose in the slightest degree, that the sea has encroached upon
+     the land _by its gaining a higher_ GENERAL _level_ (an idea
+     deprecated by many eminent geologists), we must take the
+     alternative in accounting for the phenomenon, and infer that the
+     land of the haven must have SUNK at some very distant period, and
+     that more recently, the same fate attended the foundations of the
+     church, which certainly could not have been originally built so
+     very close to the water's edge, as to be constantly enveloped in
+     sea-foam during every fresh breeze from the east.
+
+     Analagous to the above mutation in the state of the land, is the
+     following singular fact related by Sir Rd. Worsley, of
+     Appuldurcombe, who, living as it were on the spot, was not likely
+     to be imposed upon. The reader is to picture to himself three very
+     high downs standing nearly in a line,--St. Catharine's, Week, and
+     Shanklin: the latter, when Sir Richard wrote the account in 1781,
+     he guessed to be about 100 feet higher than Week Down, but which
+     "was barely visible" over the latter from St. Catharine's, in the
+     younger days of many of the old inhabitants of Chale, and who had
+     also been told by their fathers that at one time Shanklin could be
+     seen only from the top of the beacon on St. Catharine's. "This
+     testimony, if allowed," says the worthy baronet, "argues either a
+     sinking of the intermediate down, or a rising of one of the other
+     hills, the causes of which are left for philosophical
+     investigation:" and so with respect to the haven and the church, we
+     leave it as a curious question to amuse our scientific
+     friends--whether it is the sea that has risen, or the land which
+     has subsided?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BEMBRIDGE.
+
+     >> _This is a peninsula about three miles long by one broad,
+     terminating abruptly on the sea-side in a range of_ SUBLIME CHALK
+     PRECIPICES. _The part easily accessible to strangers is White-cliff
+     Bay, two miles from the ferry._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     On account of the inconvenient situation of Bembridge as to the
+     usual _routes_, it is not so much visited as Freshwater, whose
+     precipices are on rather a grander scale, and the most celebrated
+     in Great Britain of this magnificent species of coast scenery. For
+     this reason, and also as the cliffs of both places agree almost
+     precisely in their geological character (for they are but the
+     termini of the same chain of hills), we shall merge the _general_
+     description of the former in that of the latter; but we would
+     advise the stranger who may sojourn at Ryde, by all means to visit
+     Bembridge, if he should decline going to Freshwater; and if in a
+     good boat on a fine day, so much the better,--he will be well
+     gratified with the _brilliant_ spectacle which these noble "_white
+     cliffs of Albion_" present.
+
+Before the year 1830, Bembridge seemed to be shut out from intercourse
+with the world: it was very rarely visited; possessed no facilities of
+communication; and had no charms to call the traveller aside from the
+routine track. But owing to the WISE and spirited exertions of a
+resident gentleman, it was soon rendered a populous village.
+
+Among the first improvements was the erection (by public subscription)
+of a handsome little church for the accommodation of the inhabitants,
+who before had no place of episcopalian worship nearer than Brading: the
+next consideration was the establishment of a horse-boat, and other
+regular means of passage across the haven:--land was sold off on
+eligible terms for building; several tasty villas were soon erected, and
+ample shrubberies formed:--new roads were projected, the old ones
+widened and repaired, and travelling altogether rendered more agreeable.
+A respectable Hotel was also built at the same time, near the beach.
+
+The face of the country about Bembridge is pleasant enough, being
+agreeably checquered by grove and meadow, cultivation and open
+pasturage: but it is THE SURROUNDING PROSPECT which yields the chief
+pleasure. The situation of the Church and other principal buildings, is
+sufficiently evident to the visitor from St. Helen's, or as he crosses
+the ferry.
+
+The chalk precipices of Bembridge are named _the Culvers_, from the
+circumstance it is said, of their having been the haunt of immense
+numbers of wild pigeons; and they are now, as has been already mentioned
+(p. 21), resorted to in the summer months by prodigious flights of
+various sea-fowl. There is a small cavern called HERMIT'S HOLE in the
+face of the cliff, about thirty feet from the top; the descent to it
+however is steep and narrow, and it is comparatively but seldom visited.
+
+BEMBRIDGE LEDGE is a dangerous reef of rocks, stretching out into the
+sea a considerable distance: a floating beacon-light called "the Nab" is
+always moored within a short distance, to warn ships of their position.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+YAVERLAND. This is a straggling village near the sea-shore, between
+Brading and Sandown Fort. The little parish-church and the adjoining
+mansion (now converted into a farm house,) exhibit a venerable
+appearance, and being surrounded by groves of magnificent elms, the
+whole presents one of the prettiest _rural_ scenes in the island; and to
+the amateur of sketching, it must prove a treat. The Parsonage too will
+be admired for its appropriate character and pleasant situation.--Passing
+a few scattered cottages, our road will be on the pebbly beach to ...
+
+SANDOWN,
+
+Altogether an extensive village, containing several new houses built
+near the sea-shore, intended for letting as summer lodgings: some of
+them are large and splendidly furnished: and enjoy a beautiful view of
+the British Channel, the dazzling cliffs of Bembridge, and the range of
+coast for two or three miles in the direction of Shanklin. There is a
+church, newly erected in the upper part of the village: and a neat inn
+on the beach.
+
+Midway between Sandown and Shanklin we pass through LAKE, a pretty
+hamlet, having a few cottages that let occasionally for lodgings during
+the summer months.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BRADING
+
+Consists of one long, ancient street (through which is the chief
+thoroughfare from Ryde to Shanklin and the Undercliff,) and a few good
+houses recently built on the outskirts: it lies about half a mile from
+the haven; and still retains some of the privileges of an ancient
+borough. The Church is considered the oldest in the island; as it was
+certainly in existence early in the eighth century, though some date its
+erection so high as the sixth, and contend that the first islanders
+converted to Christianity were here baptized. On account of its
+antiquity, the numerous relics which it contains, together with the many
+well written inscriptions to be found on the tombstones in the cemetery
+(the most noted of which perhaps is the one erected to the memory of
+"Little Jane,") it is very frequently visited by parties making the
+southern tour. The surrounding country too is agreeably varied by wood
+and water, arable and pasture, and a very fine outline of hill and dale.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+To return to Ryde or Newport over the downs from Brading, will be found
+exceedingly interesting to those strangers who delight in the
+contemplation of grand prospects, and a most fertile and well
+cultivated country:--having no objection at the same time to a _hilly_
+road as the price of their enjoyment, and which _we_ call the most
+beautiful in the island.
+
+     But as artists are often enraptured with passages of scenery that
+     to others prove comparatively uninteresting, we subjoin a sketch by
+     Sir H. ENGLEFIELD, showing the deep interest and pleasure the
+     surrounding landscapes are capable of affording:--
+
+     "To enjoy in all its glory, the complete view of the northern
+     tract, which in detail presents so many separate beauties, we must
+     ascend the chalk range that rises immediately from the woods of
+     Nunwell. When the weather is clear, it is impossible to describe
+     the magnificent scene which these hills command, from Brading
+     Downs, by Ashey Sea-mark, and soon quite to Arreton chalk-pit.
+
+     "To the _north_, the woodlands form an almost continued velvet
+     carpet of near 10,000 acres, broken only by small farms, whose
+     thatched buildings relieve the deep tints of the forests. The
+     Wootton River winds beautifully among them, and beyond the whole
+     the Solent Sea spreads its waters, which in clear weather is tinged
+     with an azure more deep and beautiful than any I ever saw. The
+     Hampshire land rises in a succession of hills quite lost at length
+     in blue vapour. The inland view to the _south_ is far from
+     destitute of beauty, though less striking than the northern scene.
+     The vale between the chalk range and the southern hills is seen in
+     its full extent: and the southern hills themselves rise to a
+     majestic height. To the _eastward_ the sea is again visible over
+     the low lands of Sandown, and by its open expanse affords a fine
+     contrast to the Solent Channel.
+
+     "The nearer objects on the southern slope are also very
+     interesting: Knighton House, with its venerable grey fronts mantled
+     with luxuriant ivy, and bosomed in the richest groves, is as
+     beautiful at a distance, as it is interesting on a nearer approach.
+     Arreton is also surrounded with trees, which group happily with the
+     pretty church and an old mansion now converted into a farm: and
+     from the western end of the downs, the country about Newport and
+     Carisbrooke is seen to great advantage. _Such is the faint outline
+     of a scene, which, in richness of tints, and variety of objects,
+     surpasses anything I ever saw._"
+
+     _Note._--Since this was written, Knighton House has been pulled
+     down.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Objects between Brading and Newport._
+
+Our course will be for the first three miles due west. On the north side
+is NUNWELL, the oldest seat in the island, having been awarded by
+William the Conqueror to the ancestors of Sir William Oglander, the
+present proprietor. Noble specimens of every kind of forest-tree are to
+be found in the park: particularly oaks, several of which are many
+centuries old, the family having long employed every possible means of
+preserving these venerable chiefs of the grove. The house (a large,
+plain building,) stands at the foot of the down, and therefore is not
+seen from the road: but the surrounding park, woods, and farms of the
+estate, spread before the eye in a most beautiful style ...
+
+    "With swelling slopes and groves of every green."
+
+ASHEY SEA-MARK is very conspicuously seen, being seated on a high down,
+three miles from Brading, four from Ryde, and five from Newport: it is a
+perfectly plain, triangular object, erected in the middle of the last
+century to assist pilots in navigating St. Helen's anchorage.
+
+On the south side of the down appears the pretty village of NEWCHURCH,
+in the direct road from Ryde to Godshill, &c. The situation of the
+Church is rather romantic, being nearly on the edge of a remarkably
+steep sand-cliff, through which the road is cut, feathered with
+brushwood and several overhanging trees.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+If the tourist be returning to Newport, he will pass through the long
+village of ARRETON, whose church stands at the foot of the down of that
+name: it is of considerable antiquity,--and though its style of
+architecture is certainly heavy, is upon the whole both picturesque and
+singular. Its chief internal decoration is a beautiful mausoleum to the
+memory of Sir Leonard W. Holmes, bart.: and in the churchyard is buried
+the young woman celebrated for her piety in the popular tract of "the
+Dairyman's Daughter."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE ROMANTIC SCENERY
+
+OF THE ISLAND,
+
+EXHIBITED ALONG THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST, FROM
+
+SHANKLIN TO BLACKGANG CHINE.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SHANKLIN.
+
+     >> THE CHINE, _a beautiful woody ravine in the sea-cliffs, is the
+     great object of attraction; inquire the road to the beach, and you
+     will be conducted through the scene back to the village;--of the
+     latter, a, pretty good idea may be formed in passing through it to
+     Bonchurch,_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Here we enter upon the romantic scenery of the island. The village is
+most delightfully rural, and though it has several roomy lodging-houses,
+and two large hotels, still, from the bold variety of the ground, and
+the many shrubberies and clumps of fine elm and ash trees with which it
+is adorned, the dwellings are so hid from one another, that in almost
+every point of view it has the pleasing appearance of being but a small
+quiet hamlet. Except in the most exposed parts, vegetation flourishes
+with uncommon luxuriance,--even choice exotics: we would point to the
+Parsonage as an instance, enveloped in myrtles that stand the rigors of
+winter without protection: indeed it may well be said, that almost every
+cottage in this beautiful spot is surrounded ...
+
+    "With fragrant turf, and flowers as wild and fair,
+    As ever dressed a bank, or scented summer air."
+
+But the crowning feature from which it derives its celebrity as one of
+the chief curiosities of the island, is THE CHINE--a term that certainly
+does not convey to a stranger any idea of the scene: it is a provincial
+expression for a ravine or cleft in the cliffs of the shore, and of
+which there are several along the coast, possessing a beauty or
+sublimity that renders them highly interesting.
+
+Having reached the beach, the visitor should take a short walk under the
+towering sandrock precipices which range to the right and left for
+several miles, before he enters the Chine. Nowhere on the coast of the
+island is there a more charming stretch of shore,--for the sand is of a
+cool dark color, _firm enough for wheel-carriages and horses to be used
+by invalids_, and therefore proves equally alluring to the aged as to
+the young, to enjoy salubrious exercise and recreation; it extends
+northward to Sandown--about two miles; its monotony being broken by
+occasional pools of sea-water, and a sprinkling of weed-covered rocks.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE CHINE.
+
+[Illustration: SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT. (_Descent to the Beach._)]
+
+At the foot of the cliff stands a fisherman's cottage, which may attract
+our attention from its picturesque situation.
+
+The first view of the Chine from the beach is not the most favorable: as
+the eye of the spectator is much too low to comprehend all the deep and
+bold windings of the chasm, which contribute so essentially to its
+romantic effect: but, gradually ascending by a narrow path, we soon open
+a wider view, and should then pause, to contemplate it on every side. We
+see suspended on the opposite slope, the humble ale house, resting
+
+    "Beneath an aged oak's embowering shade."
+
+Just below it, a pretty rose-mantled cottage: and not far off, the gable
+end of a gentleman's villa, so prominently seated near the margin of the
+precipice, as to completely overlook the awful abyss. This view is
+altogether picturesque and animated: for the foreground is exceedingly
+bold,--and the prospect of Sandown Bay and the sublime cliffs of
+Bembridge, give wonderful brilliancy and interest to the perspective.
+
+As we advance, the scene becomes increasingly romantic, especially when
+we are about half-way through it: for the deep sides of the chasm so
+fold into one another as to exclude all prospect, and yet afford a great
+diversity of coloring, light, and shade; the one side being beautifully
+hung with indigenous trees or shrubs, and the uncovered portions of the
+cliff of a glowing tint; while the opposite side presents the contrast
+of a sombre hue, and is generally too steep to admit of much vegetation
+ever gaining a permanent footing. Nor is the most critical eye annoyed
+by the indications of unnecessary artificial improvements--which so
+often tend to destroy the delightful robe of simplicity that such scenes
+of Nature's creation wear, _when they are fortunate enough to escape the
+infliction of man's refinements_.
+
+    "Still slowly climb the many-winding way,
+    And frequent turn to linger as you go."
+
+We now approach the waterfall, at the HEAD OF THE CHINE; and should
+there have been lately any heavy rains, it forms a noble cascade of
+about 30 feet; but after a continuance of dry weather, it is reduced to
+a scanty rill.
+
+Ascending by a rude path cut in the side of the cliff, we pass through a
+rustic wicket, and take our leave of this celebrated scene, which has no
+doubt been formed by the slow operation of the streamlet in the course
+of many ages, insignificant as it may appear to a casual visitor in the
+middle of summer. The Chine of Blackgang is indebted for its origin to a
+similar cause: and this of Shanklin would have gone on rapidly
+increasing, had not the proprietor resorted to the aid of masonry,
+draining, piling, &c. to arrest in some measure its further progress
+towards the village.--See p. 33 of the "Vectis Scenery" for a full
+account of the formation of the Chines.
+
+The sides of this chasm are about 200 feet in perpendicular height, and
+perhaps 300 wide at the top, near the beach, gradually diminishing
+towards the Head or waterfall, where the sides are perpendicular, and
+only a few yards asunder.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The earthy precipices between Shanklin and Luccombe Chines are called
+DUNNOSE,--they form the southern termination of Sandown Bay, which is a
+beautiful stretch of shore of above five miles in extent, bounded on the
+north by the white cliffs of Bembridge.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As we pursue our tour we can trace the course of the Chine (above the
+head), by the freshness and luxuriant growth of the trees that stand on
+its narrow banks: and just as we approximate the little parish-church,
+pass over a bridge thrown across it--but the streamlet itself is almost
+hidden by wild brushwood and aquatic weeds. The spring-head is a little
+above the church.
+
+[Illustration: SHANKLIN CHURCH, I.W. _And the Road leading to Luccombe &
+the Undercliff_]
+
+The Plate represents the church, and a remarkable portion of the road on
+quitting the village for the back of the island; it is seen ascending
+circuitously the side of a steep down, between a hanging copse and
+several groups of the finest ash trees,--one of which (on the
+left-hand,) has long been celebrated for its amplitude and beauty.
+
+     It is quite impossible for language to convey more than a faint
+     idea of the magnificent and interesting prospect which gradually
+     opens to view as the traveller ascends the mountain ridge: the
+     British Channel spreads its blue waters as the boundary on the one
+     side; the greatest portion of the island recedes in the most
+     charming gradations on the other: and the Solent Channel presents
+     the animated appearance of a noble river, crowded with ships of
+     every description; while the opposite coast of Hampshire and Sussex
+     may be traced more or less distinctly for 70 or 80 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A series of pasturing downs stretch for several miles nearly parallel
+with the sea-coast: of these the nearest is Shanklin--its northern slope
+being abruptly broken by a fine range of cliff, composed chiefly of gray
+free-stone feathered by hanging woods, and on the edge of this beautiful
+precipice stand some very picturesque ruins called ...
+
+COOKE's CASTLE,
+
+[Illustration: COOKE's CASTLE. _An ancient ruin on the Appuldurcombe
+Estate--Isle of Wight._]
+
+Which being seen from a considerable distance in various directions, and
+never before published, appeared to the Artist to well merit a sketch.
+Sir Richard Worsley, in his History of the Isle of Wight, states it to
+be the "ruin of an ancient castle" (though it has been said that it was
+built as an object of view from Appuldurcombe House); but whether
+artificial, or really a relic of antiquity, is of little importance,
+while it proves so conspicuous an ornament to the scene.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+LUCCOMBE CHINE
+
+Is another chasm in the sea-cliffs, similar to Shanklin in its
+character, but on a very inferior scale: and therefore is seldom visited
+by those in a vehicle who have little time to spare. But many walk from
+Shanklin to it, either on the beach (if the tide be ebbing), or by a
+foot-path near the edge of the cliffs, the distance being about two
+miles: either way is extremely pleasant. A few houses and cottages
+scattered about, serve to enliven the scene.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We now approach a most singular and romantic tract of the south-eastern
+coast, dividing the claim of _interest_ even with the sublime scenery at
+the west end of the island: we mean ...
+
+THE UNDERCLIFF,
+
+Which commences at East End, and terminates at Blackgang Chine, an
+extent of above eight miles, averaging about one mile's breadth: and
+bounded on the land-side by a towering ridge of perpendicular stone
+cliffs, or precipitous chalky hills; presenting in many parts the
+venerable time-worn appearance of some ancient fortress. Between this
+craggy ridge and the sea-cliffs, every spot bears the striking impress
+of some violent convulsion, such in fact as would be produced by an
+earthquake: but in proportion to the time that shall have elapsed, so
+all the more rugged marks of devastation are either obliterated by the
+liberal hand of Nature, or converted into positive beauties. Originally
+the whole of this tract, or nearly so, was rock resting on a sort of
+loose marly foundation: this being perpetually exposed to the
+undermining action of the sea at its foot; accelerated in wet seasons
+by the marle being rendered soft and yielding,--it is evident that,
+sooner or later, such a foundation would give way to the immense
+superincumbent pressure, and be attended with all the direful effects of
+a real earthquake.
+
+Most probably other subsidences will yet take place, until more of the
+oozy, sliding foundation shall be removed, and its place occupied by a
+sufficient quantity of fallen rock, as will secure the stability of the
+ground; as we find to be the case for the greater part of this singular
+tract, which has certainly been in a state of repose for seven or eight
+centuries at least. Fragments of the cliff are indeed frequently
+shivered off, but rarely or never attended with any very injurious
+consequences: it is those extensive _landslips_ which are alarming, when
+many acres of valuable land are completely overturned and laid waste in
+a few hours. The huge masses of solid rock thus torn and dashed about,
+produce the grandest scenes of terror: but are at the same time the
+source of those singular beauties--that variety of fractured cliff and
+broken ground, which are the greatest ornaments of this romantic
+country.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+EAST END.
+
+     >>_The Tourist ought, if possible, to walk through this very
+     romantic scene, and if in a vehicle, be upon his guard that the
+     driver does not hurry him by it, as is often the case._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Here, as we have said before, the Undercliff commences: and as soon as
+the stranger has nearly compassed the valley of Luccombe, he should
+particularly enquire for the spot which is the entrance to this romantic
+scene ...
+
+    "Where twines a path in shadow hid,
+    Round many a rocky pyramid."
+
+The distance is only a mile: the carriage in the mean time may proceed
+on to Bonchurch. But should the party decline the walk, they ought at
+least to alight, and advance near enough to the edge of the
+precipice, to have a view of the interesting scene below; and they must
+bear in mind, that though it lies within a few yards of the road, yet
+_to a person passing by_, there is no indication of its being so near.
+
+The great interest of East End arises partly from its present wild
+character, and partly from its being the scene of the latest formidable
+landslips that have occurred in the island. In the year 1810, a founder
+took place which destroyed about twenty acres of land: this was followed
+by another, eight years after, that ruined in one night at least thirty
+acres more: at which time above twenty full-grown trees were uprooted,
+and several of them completely buried in the awful wreck. It therefore
+affords the inquisitive traveller the best opportunity of examining the
+cause of the peculiar character of this part of the island.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BONCHURCH.
+
+     >>_Formerly this was one of the most romantic scenes in the island,
+     but has lately been converted into a fashionable village. Amidst a
+     profusion of new houses, more or less tasty in their style--a
+     villa, called_ EAST DENE, _and the neighbouring old_ CHURCH_, are
+     all that will here particularly call the stranger from the
+     carriage-road._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In the year 1834, this beautiful spot was advertised to be sold off in
+small lots for building 18 or 20 villas!--a circumstance much regretted
+by the admirers of the peculiar scenery of the Undercliff, which was
+exhibited here in its utmost perfection. Nearly the whole of the land is
+now disposed of; some of the houses were built for the purpose of
+letting lodgings; one has been opened as a first-rate Hotel; but the
+greater number are private residences,--and certainly it must prove a
+most enviable retreat for families or invalids during the winter months.
+It is impossible for any spot to be better adapted for a number of
+houses being built in a comparatively small compass: for the whole of
+the ground is so romantically tossed about by the sportive hand of
+Nature,--presenting here a lofty ridge of rocks, there a woody dell
+adorned with a purling stream or a limpid pool, that most of the houses
+are completely hid from each other's view.
+
+     From the bad taste which too generally prevails--we mean the
+     _vanity of glare_--the affectation of _elegance_,--so frequently
+     carried out at the expense of all propriety, we were not without
+     apprehension that many of the gentry at Bonchurch would also
+     neglect the essential rule, that _the peculiar character of every
+     scene demands an_ APPROPRIATE STYLE _in building and decoration_;
+     for it avails little to have ivy-mantled rocks and mossy cliffs,
+     the sunny knoll and the shady glen, with their groves and
+     streams,--if the Genius of the spot be not consulted, and HARMONY
+     made the rule of every innovation and improvement. In a word, it is
+     too often in building as in dress, that many persons resort to show
+     and refinement as the surest means of attracting the world's
+     admiration for their superior taste and rank! But in justice to the
+     Gentlemen who have located in this fairy-land, we must acknowledge
+     that they for the most part avoided (as far as was possible),
+     disturbing the natural beauties of the place, and have studied to
+     make their happy retreats ...
+
+        "Smile with charms
+    CONGENIAL TO THE SOIL, and all its own:
+        For Ornament
+    When foreign or fantastic, never charmed."
+
+     >>The reader who may feel an interest on this subject is referred
+     to pp. 36 and 43 of the "_Vectis Scenery_."
+
+The most delightful residence at Bonchurch is called EAST DENE: the
+beauty of its locality is unrivaled; the exterior of the house in a
+chaste style; and the interior fitted-up and furnished at a great
+expense in the antique mode of the 16th century.
+
+[Illustration: _THE PARISH CHURCH OF_ BONCHURCH _ISLE OF WIGHT_]
+
+The Tourist should certainly visit the old Church, which stands near the
+shore, and not far from the road, though concealed from it by a lofty
+ridge of the fallen cliff: it is of simple construction, but beautifully
+canopied by a grove of magnificent elms, and is supposed to have been
+built in the 11th century,--which is taken as a proof that this part of
+the Undercliff was certainly in a state of repose at the time of its
+erection; and has undoubtedly remained so ever since. Still, we cannot
+question for a moment, but this spot must have been in some previous age
+(judging from analogy,) subjected to the same catastrophes which we have
+witnessed even in our own time in its immediate neighbourhood at East
+End. There is also a new Church, of a neat design, beautifully nestled
+amongst the rocks in the higher part of the village.
+
+As ROCK, in this part of the island, constitutes the chief source of
+picturesque effect, it would be an omission not to point out two crags
+which have gained quite a celebrity for their age and beauty: the first
+is _Hadfield's Look-out_, boldly rising from the road; the other a
+prominence in the face of the upper range of precipices, called _the
+Pulpit Rock_: the former has generally the appendage of a
+flag-staff,--the latter a rude cross, in unison with its name.
+
+The road through the valley of Bonchurch presents a most enchanting
+scene: shaded by noble trees; and edged by bold rocky knolls,--and a
+small pellucid lake and stream, beyond which appears a romantic tract of
+broken ground and wild brushwood, backed by the venerable grey
+land-cliff and the lofty brow of St. Boniface Down. On emerging from
+this beautiful spot, we have on our right a genteel residence called ST.
+BONIFACE HOUSE, situated close at the foot of the high down which gives
+the name; built in a very chaste rural style; and embellished by some
+noble trees, and a sparkling rill.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We now open a general view of the fast-improving town of ...
+
+VENTNOR.
+
+>>_This is the chief resting-place between Shanklin and Niton. The_
+CHURCH, _and the_ COVE, _are the most interesting features_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Ventnor has risen into importance with a rapidity greater than any other
+place in the island: for as late as the year 1830 it numbered but about
+half-a-dozen cottages, one hotel, a small inn, and the accompaniment of
+a humble grist-mill, so necessary in a _retired hamlet_ as this was
+_then_. But such has since been the eagerness for building, that land
+for the purpose which was at that time sold for L100 per acre, soon
+advanced to 300 or L400; latterly the price has risen at the rate of 800
+to L1000 per acre for the more eligible sites. And at present there are
+three first-rate hotels and several minor inns; well stocked shops in
+almost every line of business: and medical men established on the spot.
+Several streets of considerable extent are completed, others are rapidly
+progressing; and much has also been done in the way of public
+improvements, such as paving, lighting, &c. The new Esplanade, on the
+beach, cannot fail to prove a delightful convenience both to the
+inhabitants and visitors at Ventnor.
+
+It is greatly indebted for its prosperity to Dr. Clarke's popular
+Treatise, to which we have already referred (p. 16,) when speaking of
+the climate generally. Its progress was still more accelerated by the
+interest which the proprietor of Steephill Castle, John Hambrough, esq.,
+took in its success, by erecting a handsome church, a large free-school,
+parsonage, &c.
+
+Building being still carried on with undiminished speculation, the
+general appearance of the town must be consequently anything but
+agreeable--nor has there been the lapse of sufficient time for the
+growth of the shrubberies (however genial the climate,) to attain that
+size which would afford the relief of even a partial screen. Little
+therefore can be particularized under the present _changing aspect_ of
+the place.
+
+Among the buildings which attract attention in entering by the old road,
+are the connected range called St. Boniface Terrace, occupying a
+commanding situation, and the houses concurring in one general design:
+and below, some extensive erections, of rather a novel appearance to the
+untraveled eye, being strictly in imitation of the airy and picturesque
+style of the Italian villa.
+
+The somewhat confused appearance of Ventnor is no doubt owing to its
+unexpected advance having prevented the adoption of any uniform
+ground-plan, as would no doubt have been done could the proprietor of
+the land have foreseen the magnitude to which the place was so soon to
+extend,--for in this respect a considerable improvement is visible in
+the latest-erected part of the town. The most regularly laid-out streets
+are near the shore: and one branch-road runs by the edge of the
+sea-cliffs for about half a mile towards Bonchurch, thus affording the
+houses an uninterrupted view of the sea.
+
+[Illustration: To JOHN HAMBROUGH _Esq. of Steephill Castle, in the Isle
+of Wight_, _This view of_ ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH, _erected by him at_
+VENTNOR, _is most respectfully inscribed by His much obliged humble
+servant, GEORGE BRANNON._]
+
+ST. CATHARINE'S CHURCH is a beautiful feature in every respect, both in
+its exterior and interior, being the neatest in the island: and situated
+as it is on a commanding knoll nearly in the middle of the town, affords
+an admirable relief to the whole scene, by arresting the eye from the
+scattered glare of the surrounding slate-roofed and white-walled
+buildings,--which are almost the universal character of the houses.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The COVE presents at certain times a very animated and engaging picture:
+fishermen preparing for or returning from their voyage; invalids and
+other respectable parties sauntering or reclining on the sunny beach:
+some reading, others amused in listening to, and watching the curling
+waves expire at their feet in spreading foam. The material of the shore
+is principally fine shingle, or very small pebbles, among which
+particles are frequently picked up, possessing a brilliancy that has
+gained for them the title of "Isle of Wight diamonds;" and though they
+may be comparatively of inferior value in point of intrinsic
+quality,--still, the _interest_ taken in searching for them must prove a
+source of the most agreeable employment to those visitors whose health
+precludes any exercise of a more active nature.
+
+ST. BONIFACE DOWN, which forms a green back-ground to the view, is also
+an object of interest (at least with artists or amateurs of sketching,)
+that ought not to be passed by unnoticed. It is exceedingly steep: has a
+never-failing spring on its lofty summit, and is often cheerfully
+sprinkled with sheep, of the South-down breed, safely nibbling the close
+herbage on its precipitous side.
+
+     Speaking of the down, we should deserve to be censured by those of
+     our elderly readers who may have been to Ventnor ere it reached the
+     magnitude of a town, not to inform them, that _the then only Hotel_
+     (so beautifully seated close at the foot of the hill,) _is no
+     longer a place of public accommodation_; the license has been
+     transferred. Many were the respectable parties of the olden time
+     who used to amuse themselves with the attempt to gain the summit of
+     the down,--sometimes successfully, but more frequently at the
+     expense of a rather too precipitate descent, to the no small
+     diversion of their friends who had less daring to make the
+     experiment. In this age of refinement, such displays of rural
+     agility would be regarded as "utterly vulgar!" there are however
+     more circuitous and accessible paths by which we may reach the
+     eminence, and hence enjoy a most delightful prospect.
+
+     In concluding this brief notice of Ventnor, it would be very unfair
+     to Dr. Clarke, not to mention the fact, that he was decidedly
+     opposed to the residences of invalids (with pulmonary consumption)
+     being accumulated together "_in the form of a Town_;" he recommends
+     that a number of _detached_ houses should be built along the
+     Undercliff, each surrounded with the protection of a garden-wall
+     and a few trees. But, begging the Doctor's pardon, we heartily
+     rejoice that his advice could not be acted upon to any considerable
+     extent (except at Ventnor and Bonchurch); because fortunately the
+     most eligible and attractive spots in this romantic district are in
+     the holding of gentlemen who have chosen such for their _private_
+     residences: and certainly, if selfishness was ever pardonable, it
+     is so in this instance; nay, for our part, we really congratulate
+     the public, that the spirit of exclusiveness so widely exists in
+     this happy region of the sublime and beautiful. For what a
+     lamentable transformation it would prove of the natural character
+     of the scenery, to have many large and often glary houses obtruding
+     upon the eye in every direction! banishing all the _wildest_ and
+     most interesting local beauties, for domestic convenience or
+     fantastic embellishment! Where then would be the attraction to call
+     the thousands annually to our romantic isle? Where those UNIQUE
+     LANDSCAPES which now constitute its proudest charm?
+
+     And after all, the Doctor's objection to a residence in town, is
+     largely compensated for in the case of Ventnor, by the many
+     advantages afforded to invalids, that could be procured only in a
+     populous place: such for instance as regular stage-coaches running
+     to and from Ryde and other places; a good landing-place;
+     bathing-machines; a post-office and reading-rooms; the location of
+     several apothecaries and eminent physicians: tradesmen of almost
+     every description; and the facility of enjoying society in the
+     dullest winter months.
+
+Westward of Ventnor, we have a sudden and most agreeable transition from
+the glare of the town to a quiet picture of rural scenery, broken only
+by two or three cottages neatly built in the antique style; this is the
+commencement of the property of Mr. Hambrough (of Steephill Castle),
+which extends to St. Lawrence, the estate of Earl Yarborough; succeeded
+by Old Park; and near Niton, the seats of Mrs. Arnold, Sir W. Gordon,
+and Mrs. Vine: altogether a delightful distance of above four miles;
+which we hope will long escape any desecration of its beauties by the
+operations of building speculators.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+APPULDURCOMBE.
+
+This splendid seat, from its proximity to the Undercliff, is most
+frequently embraced either in the south-eastern or the continued Tour,
+in preference to giving it a separate day: therefore here is perhaps the
+best place for its notice, especially as the regular road from Ventnor
+to Newport passes close by: and as it is only two miles from the former
+town. It is thus described by Sir Richard Worsley, in his "History of
+the Isle of Wight:"
+
+     "The house is pleasantly situated about seven miles south of the
+     town of Newport: it has four regular fronts of the Corinthian
+     order, built of freestone; the pilasters, cornices, ballustrades,
+     and other ornamental parts are of Portland stone; the roof is
+     covered with Westmoreland slates. The grand entrance in the east
+     front is through a hall 54 feet in length by 24 in breadth, adorned
+     with eight beautiful columns of the Ionic order resembling
+     porphyry. On this floor are several handsome apartments, containing
+     many valuable portraits, and other good paintings; the offices are
+     very commodious, and on the first and attic stories are upwards of
+     twenty bed-chambers with dressing-rooms. The house was begun by Sir
+     Robert Worsley, in 1710: and completed by Sir Richard Worsley, who
+     made considerable additions, and much improved upon the original
+     design."
+
+Sir Richard spent a great portion of his life in collecting the
+paintings and other relics of antiquity which adorn the mansion, and
+published a very sumptuous descriptive work, entitled "Museum
+Worsleyanum." The Estate descended to the Pelham family by the marriage
+of the Baronet's niece to the late Earl Yarborough.
+
+The park of Appuldurcombe is extensive; and the soil being extremely
+rich, supports a great number both of deer and cattle,--the former of
+which is nowhere else to be found in the island. At the back of the
+mansion rises a lofty hill, whose sides are hung with groves of noble
+beech, interspersed with many venerable oaks. On the summit is an
+obelisk, originally seventy feet high, built of Cornish granite, to the
+memory of Sir Robert Worsley: but of late years it has suffered severely
+from the high winds, to the violence of which its elevated position
+renders it so exposed. From almost every part of this down we gain the
+most splendid views; below, is the rich vale of Arreton, Newchurch, and
+Godshill: beyond is seen on the north, Portsmouth and the neighbouring
+anchorages, with the wooded heights above Southampton Water; eastward
+are the beautiful shores of Sandown Bay; to the west the prospect is
+continued far beyond the white cliffs of Freshwater, by the coasts of
+Hants and Dorset: and on the south expands the azure horizon of the
+boundless ocean.
+
+N.B. Strangers desirous of visiting Appuldurcombe, must provide
+themselves with tickets at the office of the stewards, Messrs. Sewell,
+Solicitors, Newport: the days allowed are Tuesdays and Fridays, between
+the hours of 11 and 4 o'clock.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GODSHILL,
+
+Bordering on Appuldurcombe Park, is a populous village, chiefly
+remarkable for the very picturesque situation of the Church, a large and
+venerable pile, which stands upon a steep hill in the centre of the
+village,--commanding such an extensive and beautiful prospect as will of
+itself repay the tourist for the trouble of ascending. The interior of
+the church is enriched by several interesting monuments, ancient and
+modern, in memory of the various possessors of the Appuldurcombe
+estates,--the most sumptuous being that to Sir J. Leigh and his lady,
+whose marble effigies are canopied by a beautifully ornamented arch; and
+the massive tomb of Sir Richard Worsley, which occupies the south
+transept, where a colored window is placed to give it greater
+effect.--Godshill has a small country inn called the Griffin.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The distance from Ventnor to Godshill is four miles:--and thence to
+Newport, six: the country is well-cultivated, but presents no object to
+call for particular notice: we pass the hamlet of ROOKLEY: and the
+villas of PIDFORD and STANDEN.
+
+WHITWELL is a very retired village, winding between Godshill and Niton:
+and having a church of some antiquity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Returned to the Undercliff, the next place in our route which boasts of
+superior scenic beauty is ...
+
+STEEPHILL,
+
+[Illustration: STEEPHILL, UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+Where a splendid CASTLE was erected in the year 1833, by J. Hambrough,
+esq. (thence often called after his name), on a broad terrace of rock
+that rises almost perpendicularly from the present road: and here it may
+not be quite uninteresting to state--at least to some of our friends who
+used to visit the island years ago, that the castle occupies the very
+site of the once-noted Cottage of the late Earl Dysart, and which was
+for many years that nobleman's favorite retreat. Steephill was then a
+most charming rural hamlet; but the cottages are removed (much to the
+advantage of the tenants), to afford a scope in the grounds
+corresponding with the dignity of the new mansion. Rustic simplicity and
+the wilder graces have given way to elegance and polished decoration:
+but whether the alteration
+
+    "Adds beauties to what Nature plann'd before,"
+
+Is merely a question of taste, on which we shall not presume to decide:
+various are the opinions,
+
+          --"And many a stranger stops,
+    With curious eye, to censure or admire."
+
+As the public are now excluded from the garden and pleasure-grounds, it
+is rather difficult to get a good view of the castle; the best places
+however are ... a lofty knoll or promontory on the opposite side of the
+road,--and a rocky mound near THE CAVE, which is in the face of the
+sea-cliffs, marked by a flag-staff; and there is, close by, a path to
+the beach. Half an hour's saunter would be quite sufficient to enable a
+visitor to judge of the beauty of the scene--which at one time procured
+it the title of _Queen of the Undercliff_. If but five minutes can be
+spared, the tourist ought to quit his vehicle, and reach the brow of the
+promontory above alluded to, were it only for the sake of the delightful
+prospect which it affords.
+
+The coast of Steephill forms a pleasant little cove or bay, with
+remarkably bold and picturesque headlands: and the place altogether
+equals any part of the Undercliff in its natural embellishment of rich
+groves and sparkling streams, mossy rocks, and broken ground.
+
+     DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE.--In the design of this stately edifice,
+     it appears to have been the aim of the architect to combine, as
+     much as possible, all the internal advantages of a plain mansion,
+     with the commanding form and embellished detail which usually
+     characterize a castellated structure. It is not therefore open to
+     an objection which lies against many of the most picturesque
+     specimens of this dignified style of building--that internal
+     convenience was sacrificed to the production of bold and pleasing
+     contrasts in the face of the exterior: or that it was the growth of
+     successive improvements. Indeed, both inside and out, all appears
+     to be handsomely proportioned and well-arranged; while in any point
+     of view the whole presents an aspect of elegant simplicity.--The
+     general form of the castle is an oblong; and the most prominent
+     features ... one majestic square tower which springs from about the
+     centre of the north side; another tower of an octagon form at the
+     south-eastern angle; and a beautiful hall-entrance on the east. The
+     predominant tint is a dark grey: but the battlements, quoins, and
+     mouldings, are of a light warm color, resembling the Bath stone.
+     This opposition of tints has a most pleasing, chaste effect, when
+     closely examined: but at a distance the whole melts into a sober
+     hue, like the grey impression of time, and hence harmonizes the
+     more sweetly with the surrounding scenery. Both kinds of stone were
+     procured on the spot.--The architect was the late Mr. James
+     Sanderson, of Ryde.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     _Remarks on the Exclusion of Strangers from most of the Gentlemen's
+     Seats_.--However provoking it may prove to many visitors when
+     making the tour of the island, to be shut out from a view of some
+     of the most charming seats, still it may be justified in a
+     considerable degree; and we feel it our duty to repeat what we have
+     stated elsewhere, that we know several gentlemen who would freely
+     open their gates to respectable visitors, provided they could be
+     assured of every party being contented with a general view of the
+     local beauties, without indulging a too prying curiosity; and at
+     the same time would _refrain from plucking choice flowers, fruits,
+     and shrubs_, many of which may perhaps have been cultivated by the
+     hands of the owner with an affection of no little solicitude and
+     pride; and of course it is not always convenient to keep a person
+     merely to act as an attendant. But a more decisive reason with many
+     gentlemen who love retirement is, that from the island becoming
+     every year more and more attractive with pleasure-parties, an
+     _unlimited admission_ of strangers would at once annihilate all the
+     charms of rural seclusion; it would in fact be converting the
+     flowery walks of a quiet country-villa into as giddy a promenade as
+     almost any popular tea-garden in the suburbs of the metropolis.
+     Still however, speaking generally, it requires only some slight
+     grounds of introduction: and in the absence of the family there is
+     of course less difficulty,--it being then a privilege often given
+     to the servants.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ST. LAWRENCE.
+
+>>_The_ CHURCH, _here, is from its diminutiveness, quite an object of
+curiosity; and the stranger will also notice_ THE WELL, _on the
+road-side; but the_ VILLA _and_ COTTAGE _are both secluded from public
+view_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Here lawns, and groves, and op'ning prospects break
+    With sweet surprize upon the wand'ring eye:--
+    While through romantic scenes and hanging woods.
+    And valleys green, and rocks, and hollow dales,
+    We rove enchanted."
+
+The scenery of St. Lawrence is a singular union of the cultivated with
+the wild and romantic--a pleasing interchange of the elegance of
+splendid retirement with the unobtrusive dwellings of laboring peasants,
+scattered amidst sheltering groves and ivy-covered rocks. Here the Rt.
+Hon. Earl Yarborough has ...
+
+    "A country-cottage--near a chrystal flood,
+    A winding valley, and a lofty wood;"
+
+Long celebrated as the favorite retreat of the late Sir Richard Worsley,
+of Appuldurcombe Park, who embellished it in quite a classical
+style--planting a vineyard, decorating the grounds with models of
+ancient temples, &c. The house has since been considerably enlarged, and
+ornamented in the old-English style with elaborate barge-boards and
+pinnacles. At a short distance is the recently built residence of his
+Lordship's brother, the Hon. Capt. C.D. Pelham, R.N.--also in the
+Elizabethan style. By way of contradistinction, the original is
+emphatically called _the Villa_, and the latter, _the Cottage_. It is
+much to be regretted, that the public have of late been altogether
+excluded from the grounds--from even walking on the edge of the
+sea-cliffs!
+
+[Illustration: ST LAWRENCE CHURCH _UNDERCLIFF ISLE OF WIGHT_]
+
+The miniature CHURCH seldom fails of proving an amusing object with
+every visitor,--for it ranks among the smallest parochial places of
+religious worship in Great Britain: its belfry, the pretty little porch,
+and its several windows, are all in character; it has however lately
+been found necessary to lengthen the building, in consequence of the
+increase of population in the vicinity.
+
+[Illustration: _ST LAWRENCE.--The WELL near the Marine Villa of the
+Right Honourable Lord Yarborough.--Isle of Wight._]
+
+THE WELL encloses a fountain of ever-running crystal water, the soft
+murmurs of which combine with the surrounding scene to produce the most
+agreeable feelings; and it is marked by so much of that beautiful
+simplicity which is the foundation of picturesque effect, that perhaps
+no other object in its charming neighbourhood, except the little church,
+will afford the stranger more immediate pleasure.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ROAD FROM ST. LAWRENCE TO NITON.
+
+     >>_For the succeeding mile and a half, our attention will be called
+     to no one particular object; but we shall have the Undercliff in
+     all its native character, a circumstance which must prove
+     gratifying to those who admire Nature in_ HER OWN _attire_,
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The reader will be pleased, we have no doubt, with the following brief
+notice of this part of the coast, by the late celebrated Mrs.
+Radcliffe:--
+
+     "Oct. 15, 1811.--Passed Lord Dysart's beautiful cottage: it stands
+     at some distance from the shore, and has several distinct roofs,
+     well thatched: stands at the head of a winding lawn, with a fine
+     beech-grove, and richly-colored copse. The little parish-church of
+     St. Lawrence, perhaps the smallest in England, stands on a knoll,
+     and terminates the cultivated valley; immediately beyond which we
+     entered upon a scene of the wildest grandeur and solemnity. Many of
+     the ruinous precipices of the upper cliffs project in horizontal
+     strata, yet have perpendicular rents. Some of the shattered masses
+     give the clearest echoes: we stood before one which responded every
+     syllable with an exactness which was truly astonishing.--There is
+     sometimes what may be called an amphitheatre of rock, where all the
+     area is filled with ruins, which are however covered with verdure
+     and underwood, that stretch up the sides with the wildest pomp: and
+     shelter here a cottage, there a villa, among the rocky hillocks."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Passing a gentleman's residence situated below the road on our left,
+called OLD PARK (not from its display of sylvan honors), we should look
+out for a romantic ascent in the lofty cliffs called ...
+
+CRIPPLE-PATH:
+
+It is worth examining, being a curious instance of the formation of the
+bold horizontal crags and ledges which distinguish these hoary
+precipices. For some distance the path is in a sunken stratum of soft
+freestone, while the upper ledge of more stubborn rock overhangs it
+several feet. Having reached the eminence by a rude winding staircase in
+a rent of the cliff,--we shall be well repaid for our trifling labor,
+by the beautiful prospect which is disclosed of the Undercliff, spread
+like an extensive garden immediately under our feet. Many parties walk
+hence on the edge of the cliffs to Niton, &c.
+
+MIRABLES is another charming villa, through whose luxuriant plantations
+the road is carried for nearly half a mile, affording a most grateful
+shade: but, by the bye, at the expense of all prospect.
+
+    "Refreshing change, where now the blazing sun?
+    By short transition we have lost his glare,
+    And stepp'd at once into a cooler clime."
+
+The house is secluded from our view: it is in the plain cottage style:
+but the grounds are not surpassed for rock and sylvan beauty by any seat
+on the coast.
+
+We successively pass through the grounds, close and open, of the three
+following villas:
+
+THE ORCHARD (on the same side of the road as Mirables, and like it, not
+open to the public view): a spacious villa in the embellished style, and
+the grounds immediately in front being formed into a succession of
+walled terraces, where the grape-vine and the peach find a congenial
+aspect: the coping too is adorned with a profusion of elegant vases,
+filled with the choicest flowers, nor is a gentle fountain wanting to
+complete the Italian beauty of the scene.
+
+BEAUCHAMP, an unpretending residence in the simple cottage style, on the
+right-hand side of the road, proceeding to Niton: we catch a glimpse of
+it through the trees.
+
+PUCKASTER COTTAGE, the property of the late James Vine, esq., remarkable
+for its chaste and _appropriate_ design, _as a residence seated amidst
+colossal rocks, precipices, and wild tufted knolls_. The house, the
+improvements in the grounds, and every decoration, in character,--UNITY
+marking the whole: rather an uncommon circumstance, where there is an
+unceasing desire to give every grace to a favorite scene--and withal,
+ample scope and means to indulge the wish.
+
+The old road now makes a sudden turn on our right, and here occurs the
+only considerable break in the upper boundary line of the Undercliff
+from one end to the other. To the left of us, a considerable extent of
+land has been laid out and partly disposed of, for the purpose of
+building on; and new roads made accordingly: but as yet however the
+speculation has not been carried on with much spirit.
+
+At a short distance we come in front of the garden-wall of a gentleman's
+villa called WESTCLIFF, a beautiful and well-sheltered spot where the
+road abruptly divides, the left-hand branch pursuing the tour to
+Blackgang Chine, and the right to Newport through NITON, a village
+composed of a number of stone-built thatched cottages, some of which are
+furnished for lodgings; and has also a decent small inn called the White
+Lion. The Church is a pretty little object enough, standing at the foot
+of the down, over which used to be the only direct high-road to Chale
+and Blackgang Chine.
+
+Continuing on towards the Chalybeate Spring, we pass Westcliff, and come
+to the ROYAL SANDROCK HOTEL, placed in a most beautiful and commanding
+situation; it will be readily distinguished by its ample verandah,
+mantled with the choicest creepers.--Next to the Hotel appears MOUNT
+CLEEVES, a respectable residence near the foot of the cliff, surrounded
+by huge rocks and craggy mounds:--one of these is adorned by a small
+obelisk that serves to mark a beautiful feature which would otherwise be
+overlooked. The cottage-lodge below is a remarkably pretty object.--See
+the Plate.
+
+This part of the Undercliff is at once picturesque and lively; there
+being just sufficient houses to give the scenery a cheerful aspect,
+without intrenching too much on the natural beauties of the place.
+
+We now enter on a scene which gives us a complete picture of the
+Undercliff in all its genuine lines,--for it was the subject of an
+extensive landslip in the year 1799, when a tract of about one hundred
+acres was disturbed, the whole sliding forward in a mass towards the
+sea, rifting into frightful chasms, and alternately rising and falling
+like the waves of the sea: a cottage was overturned, but fortunately no
+lives were lost.
+
+[Illustration: THE UNDERCLIFF, _Between the Sandrock Hotel & the
+Chalybeate Spring,--affording the best idea of the romantic character of
+that part of the Isle of Wight._]
+
+The annexed Plate of "the Undercliff, as it appears between the
+Sandrock Hotel and Blackgang Chine," is introduced in order to give an
+idea of the _general aspect_ of this singular tract: the wall-like
+precipice which is the land-boundary rises abruptly on the right: the
+intermediate space to the sea-shore is broken into a series of craggy
+knolls and dells: the carriage-road threading its way between immense
+masses of the fallen cliff,--now conducted along the margin of a
+dangerous slope or precipice; and now descending into a theatre of
+detached rocks and wild vegetation; but even here, though the softer
+charms of scenery be wanting, it proves that ...
+
+                --"Whether drest or rude,
+    Wild without art, or artfully subdued,
+    Nature in every form inspires delight."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+>> _The individual objects in the neighbourhood of Niton, calling for
+particular remark, are few; notwithstanding the general aspect of the
+scenery is strikingly wild and sombre. The_ LIGHT-HOUSE _will force
+itself on our attention: the_ CHALYBEATE SPRING _ought not to be passed
+by unnoticed; but the crowning feature of the district is_ BLACKGANG
+CHINE, _a scene of the most terrific grandeur_.
+
+
+ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE.
+
+[Illustration: ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE NITON, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
+
+The building of this lofty tower was commenced in the spring of 1839,
+and finished in the following year: the undertaking having originated in
+consequence of the loss of the ship _Clarendon_ (see p. 85). From the
+frequent wrecks on this most dangerous part of the coast, it is rather
+surprizing that such a warning friend to the hapless mariner was not
+erected before: because many of the catastrophes were owing to the want
+of some light or signal in the night, which could be distinctly seen by
+seamen long ere they reached the fatal shore. It is true indeed, that
+between 50 and 60 years ago, a Light-house was built on the summit of
+St. Catharine's down, but for some reason not known to the public, it
+never was equipped and lighted: and was in fact very soon abandoned. It
+has been said that the site was too elevated, that it would be quite
+obscured by fogs and mists in those very seasons when its friendly ray
+was the most required;--it might be so, but certainly that was never
+proved by the experiment: and it seems strange that these grounds of
+objection were not suggested to the projectors in time.
+
+The new Light-house stands near the edge of the sea-cliffs, at an
+elevation of about fifty feet above the beach. The stone Tower is 101
+feet high from the surface of the ground, besides the lantern of about
+20 feet more: and the foundation is of _solid masonry_ to the depth of
+thirty feet! The requisite offices for the two light-keepers are built
+round the foot of the tower, and are comparatively low, so that at a
+distance the lofty fabric appears as a magnificent column, or
+
+    "Like some tall watch-tower nodding o'er the deep,
+    Whose rocky base the foaming waters sweep."
+
+Inside the tower a broad stone staircase winds spirally to the top; and
+many visitors make the ascent, for the sake of the beautiful view
+afforded of the adjacent part of the Undercliff, as well as for
+examining the splendid and complicated lantern.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As the carriage-road now pursues its mazy course through ...
+
+    "Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly hurl'd,
+    The fragments of an earlier world,"
+
+We soon reach the locality of the SANDROCK CHALYBEATE SPRING: easily
+recognized by the low thatched roof of the Dispensary Cottage, that
+stands nearly on the brow of the cliff, as the water issues from a rock
+considerably below, inclosed in a plain piece of masonry. It has been
+proved by repeated analyses, that there is a larger proportion of iron
+and alumine in this than in any other mineral water yet discovered: and
+its medicinal properties are therefore decidedly indicated in the cure
+of those disorders arising from a relaxed fibre and languid circulation,
+such as indigestion, flatulency, nervous disorders, and debility from a
+long residence in hot climates.
+
+Great improvement has taken place in the neighbourhood of the Spring,
+within these few years, by _extensive draining_: thus preventing the
+land-soaks and springs during winter from settling into frequent pools,
+and thereby reducing the soil to the repulsive condition of a sterile
+waste of quagmire and sliding rocks, and in every succeeding summer
+drying up into a thousand dangerous holes and fissures. The ground in
+fact is now sufficiently firm to invite the builder to the erection of
+some good houses; and the surface exhibits a healthy herbage: roads have
+also been made to the shore. A large and handsome-looking house, called
+an "Italian Villa," has been erected on the east side of the
+Spring,--but if the architect ever copied such for his model, he
+certainly should have selected a site more appropriate, that would have
+justified his choice of style by its genial aspect, its greenwood
+shades, and the vegetative luxuriance of the soil.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The shore here is called ROCKEN-END RACE, being composed of vast
+confused heaps of rocky fragments precipitated in the course of ages
+from the cliffs above, and now stretching out into the sea for nearly a
+mile and a half.--Between this and Freshwater lie other formidable
+reefs, respectively named from the nearest villages, ATHERFIELD,
+CHILTON, and BROOKE; they are extremely dangerous: and previously to the
+erection of the new Light-house, occasioned frequent shipwrecks.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BLACKGANG CHINE,
+
+[Illustration: BLACKGANG CHINE, I.W. _Taken from below the new Bridge,
+which is a very general point of view, as the descent to the shore
+thence becomes more abrupt and difficult._]
+
+    "Where hills with naked heads the tempests meet--
+    Rocks at their sides, and torrents at their feet,"
+
+Deservedly ranks among the most striking scenes in the island, it is the
+termination of the Undercliff, and of a character the very reverse of
+Shanklin; for all here is terrific grandeur--without a green spray or
+scarcely a tuft of verdure to soften its savage aspect. It differs also
+from that sylvan spot, in being much more lofty, abrupt, and irregular:
+though it does not penetrate the land so far. Both have their respective
+admirers: this for its awful sublimity--that for its romantic beauty.
+
+At the head of the Chine is a spacious Hotel, close to the road, and
+distinguished by the name of the place.
+
+The shelving sides of this gloomy chasm are proved to be little less
+than 500 feet from the beach in perpendicular height; they are in a
+constant state of decay--more or less considerable according to the
+degree of rain and frost during winter: for the same description of
+soil, namely, a mixture of clay and loose absorbent marle, interspersed
+with veins of gravel, predominate here as we have seen elsewhere in its
+neighbourhood. The only relief in fact to the dusky tint of the scene,
+is two or three horizontal strata of yellowish free-stone, which give it
+a step-like appearance. The most remarkable feature is a tremendous
+gloomy hollow or cave, scooped out of the cliffs on the sea-shore by the
+united action of the waves and the stream: the latter falls over a ledge
+of the stubborn rock at the top, 70 feet high: and after heavy floods,
+forms a noble cascade of one unbroken sheet: but like others of its
+class, in summer fails in its amount, and often degenerates into a
+noiseless dribble.
+
+Nowhere can we get a complete view of Blackgang except off on the water,
+which is not always practicable: certainly not in the very seasons when
+the whole appears with the greatest interest,--when there is a strong
+wind and tide setting in-shore, and the face of Nature is shrouded in
+deepening gloom, with perhaps some hapless vessel in danger of being
+wrecked,--it is then dressed in all the congenial horrors of savage
+sublimity.--No one, a stranger to the sea-coast, would imagine how
+awfully the surges lash the stony beach in tempestuous weather: the
+high-curling waves break with a deafening roar, and mounting the lofty
+cliffs in sheets of dazzling foam, are wafted in misty clouds half over
+the island--even to Newport, where the windows facing the south are
+occasionally dimmed with the saline vapors, almost to an incrustation.
+
+The visitor will of course endeavour to descend to the shore; but this
+is sometimes attended with considerable fatigue and difficulty, after
+wet weather, to those who are delicate and infirm. For this reason, we
+have taken our sketch from near the new bridge, to which the descent
+from the hotel is generally easy: and from which the visitor may gain
+such a view as will enable him to form a very good idea of the whole
+scene. The windings of the Chine commence a little below the Hotel,
+which (as already stated) stands at least 500 feet above the beach.
+
+     From the proximity of several newly erected villas and
+     lodging-houses, it ought here to be stated to the visitor, that the
+     _true character_ of the place is in consequence greatly injured:
+     for the garish and obtrusive habitations of genteel life but ill
+     accord with that solitary and impressive magnificence which
+     constitutes the very interest--the sublimity and peculiarity of a
+     silent and cheerless scene, such as formerly were the aspect and
+     condition of Blackgang Chine and its immediate neighbourhood.
+
+     "There has long been a tradition that Blackgang Chine was once the
+     favorite retreat of a gang of pirates, and from that circumstance
+     its name was derived.--Without disputing the fact of its having
+     offered occasionally concealment and a safe depository to
+     smugglers, or even pirates for a time,--it is equally, if not more
+     probable, that it is indebted for its very expressive appellation
+     to its sombre coloring, and the _step-like_ appearance of the
+     strata, if the word _gang_ be admitted to have the same
+     signification as it has in a ship."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Between Blackgang and Freshwater are several other Chines on an inferior
+scale, partaking more or less of the same sterile aspect: such are
+Walpan, Whale, Compton, Cowleaze and the Shepherd's, Grange, Chilton,
+and Brooke: but though several of them are well entitled to notice, they
+are seldom visited, owing to their remoteness from the public roads.
+
+     >> It should be observed however, that though they possess less
+     scenic interest than those already described,--they embrace a
+     portion of the island most attractive to the geologist, from the
+     circumstance of the cliffs and shores abounding in the most
+     beautiful specimens of fossil remains.--We would moreover call the
+     attention of those visitors who may desire to examine into the
+     agency which has produced the chines, to the two called _Cowleaze_
+     and _the Shepherd's_--the latter of which has been formed within
+     the last 40 years, in consequence, it is said, of a countryman in
+     an idle moment turning the course of the small rivulet which had
+     hitherto run through Cowleaze. They are situated about a mile from
+     Brixton.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ST. CATHARINE'S HILL
+
+(In the steep side of which on the south is Blackgang Chine), is the
+highest in the island, or between 800 and 900 feet above the level of
+the sea. An ancient octagon tower stands at the top, built on the site
+of, or rather as an appendage to, a hermitage--originally endowed by a
+benevolent individual for the purpose of providing lights in dark and
+stormy nights:--there is also the shell of the old light-house mentioned
+at p. 79.
+
+The regular carriage-road between Chale and Niton used to be over this
+down previous to the year 1838: and we in some measure regret (although
+_celerity_ in travelling be now the order of the day), that it is
+superseded by the road then made to Blackgang: to the admirers of
+illimitable prospect it afforded a rich treat, "for language is scarcely
+adequate to describe the various beauties which present themselves from
+this elevated spot."
+
+On the northern extremity of St. Catharine's down is an elegant and most
+conspicuous object (72 feet high,) called the ALEXANDRIAN PILLAR: the
+purpose of its erection is perhaps best told by the inscription itself:
+
+     "_In commemoration of the visit of his Imperial Majesty Alexander
+     I, Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain in the year
+     1814--and in remembrance of the many happy years' residence in his
+     dominions--this Pillar was erected by Michael Hoy._"
+
+On the slope is a seat called the MEDINA HERMITAGE (formerly the
+summer-residence of the gentleman named on the pillar): the house is
+characterized by simplicity and neatness: and its greatest ornament is a
+large verandah, having a broad _trellis_ roof, beautifully intertwined
+with the sweetest varieties of climbing plants. From its very elevated
+situation, it commands a rich display of the country from Niton to
+Newport.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CHALE CHURCH
+
+Must be passed in the regular tour, going to or returning from Blackgang;
+stands close to the road; and though simple in its architecture, has a
+venerable and rather picturesque appearance--especially its square tower,
+which proves a great relief to the flatness of the view looking westward
+to the Freshwater cliffs: dates its erection in the 12th century; and
+exposed as it is to the rage of the elements, affords an instance of the
+stability which characterizes the structures of antiquity.
+
+The cemetery of Chale incloses many a shipwrecked mariner--no doubt some
+hundreds who were deposited, in the course of ages, without any memento
+whatever: but the public are now more interested, from the circumstance
+of the unfortunate sufferers in the wreck of the ship Clarendon being
+here interred,--to whose memory tombstones are erected, on which the
+date and other particulars of their melancholy fate are recorded.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     WRECKS ON THE SOUTHERN COAST.
+
+     We have already stated how dangerous this part of the coast is
+     during a south or south-west wind, to vessels unmanageable in a
+     storm: and previously to the erection of the new Light-house, few
+     winters passed without two or more wrecks occurring between Niton
+     and Freshwater Bay. In former times, the _waifs_, or possession of
+     such remains of ships or their cargoes as were washed ashore, seems
+     to have been a valued right of this, as well as some other manors
+     in the Isle of Wight; and many tales have been told of the
+     inhumanity of the wreckers who in those days are said to have
+     resided in the neighbourhood,--which, if true, are strongly
+     contrasted by the ready zeal and liberality which the present
+     inhabitants display in assisting those unfortunates whom the
+     furious elements so often cast on this fatal shore.
+
+     Of the numerous vessels which have been lost here in our own time,
+     the largest was perhaps the _Carn-brea Castle_ East Indiaman, in
+     July 1829: she left Spithead at nine o'clock in the morning, and
+     about six hours afterwards struck on the rocks near Mottistone: the
+     weather being fine, her crew and passengers easily reached the
+     shore. The size of the ship, and the remarkable circumstances under
+     which she was lost, attracted a considerable number of visitors to
+     the spot,--as she was not immediately broken up, though all hopes
+     of removing her were soon abandoned.
+
+     A far more disastrous wreck was that of the CLARENDON, a West India
+     trader of 350 tons, which took place on the 11th of October, 1836:
+     and will be remembered with increased interest, as the acknowledged
+     fact of her loss being mainly attributable to the want of some
+     warning beacon on the land, led almost directly to the erection of
+     the splendid light-house at Niton. She had 11 passengers, male and
+     female, and 17 seamen on board: her cargo consisted of sugar, rum,
+     molasses, and turtle; she was heavily laden, and had been about six
+     weeks on her voyage. The preceding evening was fine, and the breeze
+     favorable, and the passengers retired to rest in fancied security,
+     with the pleasing hope of safely reaching their destination on the
+     following day. After midnight the wind increased; but though the
+     ship drove rapidly before it, no danger was perceived till about
+     day-break,--when, already in the surf, there was no longer a
+     possibility of escape. The crew immediately proceeded to set all
+     sail the storm would permit, in hopes of weathering the point; but
+     their gallant efforts could not long delay the fate of the doomed
+     vessel, she continued to drift towards the beach, on which she
+     struck a little before six o'clock, and within five minutes was
+     totally demolished. It would be a useless attempt to describe the
+     horrors of that short but fearful period: all that could be
+     gathered from the statements of the survivors was, that she twice
+     touched the ground lightly, forward, at which time all her people
+     were assembled on the deck; and presently one mountain wave hurled
+     her broadside on the beach with such stupendous force, that the
+     huge hull at once parted into a thousand fragments! The frightful
+     brevity of the whole catastrophe prevented any measures being taken
+     for the relief of the passengers and crew, although the ship was
+     scarcely twice her own length from the cliff; and all perished
+     except the mate and two seamen, who were rescued by the courageous
+     exertions of some countrymen who had hastened to the spot as soon
+     as dawn disclosed the inevitable danger of the vessel.--For some
+     hours afterwards a hideous spectacle was here presented,--the naked
+     and mangled bodies of the unfortunate sufferers, with the remains
+     of the vessel and cargo, were tossed about in dire confusion by the
+     raging waves, or dashed again and again on the stony beach; but
+     before the close of the day, most of the former had been drawn
+     ashore, and the broken fragments of the wreck were strewed on the
+     beach for several miles. Six of the passengers (an officer named
+     Shore, his wife, and daughters,) were buried in Newport churchyard,
+     where a monument has since been erected to their memory; and it is
+     a strange fact that the premises which adjoin that cemetery on the
+     western side, had been but a short time previously engaged for
+     their reception by a near relative, who there anxiously awaited the
+     ship's arrival. Most of the others (as already mentioned,) were
+     interred at Chale.
+
+     Subsequently, the wrecks on the island coast have been less
+     numerous, and rarely accompanied by loss of life or any other
+     circumstance of particular interest: the case of H.M. Steam-sloop
+     SPHYNX, however, having excited so large a share of public
+     attention, claims a brief notice. Returning from her first voyage
+     to Africa, she neared the coast during a thick fog about six
+     o'clock on the morning of Jan. 16, 1847: and by the force of her
+     engines was driven over the outer ledge (off Brooke), and firmly
+     fixed in the clay beds within. The suddenness of the accident
+     caused great alarm amongst her crew and passengers (300 in number):
+     and the startling discharges of her heavy artillery quickly aroused
+     the inhabitants for miles round: but daylight and the ebbing tide
+     enabled her people to reach land with no great
+     difficulty,--although a boat, sent to her from another war-steamer,
+     capsized with the loss of seven men. For nearly two months,
+     repeated efforts were made to extricate the Sphynx from her awkward
+     position: and after her masts, guns, and most of her stores and
+     machinery had been removed, and the hull itself buoyed up by a vast
+     number of empty casks, and some decked lighters (called camels),
+     she was at length brought off and towed into Portsmouth harbour on
+     the 3rd. of March. Her bottom had sustained considerable injury,
+     though much less than was expected from her having lain so long in
+     such a situation, and during several severe gales.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The VILLAGE OF CHALE lies at the foot of St. Catharine's Hill, and
+comprises a considerable number of scattered cottages: none of them
+however deserving a stranger's notice, except perhaps the Parsonage, and
+the Abbey-farm-house; the latter covered with the most luxuriant ivy.
+
+If the visitor be on his return to Newport, he will within three miles
+of it pass GATCOMBE, a small village, and a first rate seat: exhibiting
+altogether perhaps the most charming _inland_ scenery in the Isle of
+Wight:--
+
+    "Sweet are its groves, and verdant are its fields."
+
+The mansion is a large square edifice, extremely well-situated,--in
+front a fine lawn falls with an easy slope, shaded by many noble oaks
+and elms: and immediately behind rises a steep hill luxuriantly clothed
+with hanging plantations. At a short distance from the house is a small
+lake; and near the latter, the neat little parish-church, and the
+Parsonage, both beautifully embosomed in wood.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ROAD TO FRESHWATER-GATE.
+
+>> _From Chale to the celebrated Cliff's of Freshwater is about twelve
+miles; the first eight of which are through an agricultural district,
+presenting only so many agreeable pictures of rural life,--and of these
+the principal are_ SHORWELL, NORTHCOURT, _and_ BRIXTON.
+
+    "A simple scene! yet hence Brittannia sees
+    Her solid grandeur rise."
+
+     The fact is, the greater part of the soil is so extremely fertile,
+     as to be employed in tillage and meadow, almost to the exclusion of
+     woods and coppice, which constitute the chief ornaments of a
+     landscape. We have, however, nearly the whole of the journey such a
+     charming view of the ocean, as to compensate for the deficiency of
+     sylvan beauties.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+After passing a small church called KINGSTON, posted on a knoll, and
+surrounded by a few trees which bespeak their bleak exposure, we reach
+ ...
+
+SHORWELL,
+
+A considerable village, about four miles from Chale, and five from
+Newport; it stands charmingly sheltered in a curve of the downs with a
+southern aspect; has a pretty church; and boasts of the finest old
+mansion in the island, called NORTHCOURT, built in the reign of James
+I. This venerable pile has lately been thoroughly repaired: a necessary
+operation by the bye that has stripped it for a few years of its
+greatest ornament--the rich drapery of ivy which invested its lofty gray
+walls and pinnacles: hills, clothed with hanging woods and plantations,
+rise boldly around it; many of the oaks and pines, luxuriating in a
+fertile soil and genial climate, are uncommonly fine: the grounds too
+are embellished with a rustic temple, and a very elegant mausoleum to
+the memory of Miss Bull, the daughter of a former owner,--the whole
+scene indeed is replete with architectural and sylvan beauties. There
+are in the neighbourhood two other ancient manorial residences, named
+Westcourt and Woolverton, now converted into farm-houses: and the
+cottages of Shorwell are remarkable for their neatness and comfortable
+appearance, as well as for the abundant display of creepers and
+flowering shrubs with which most of them are adorned.
+
+Two miles further on we enter BRIXTON, a populous village in the heart
+of a rich tract of cultivation: is one mile from the shore, and screened
+from the north by a range of lofty downs. The Church is rather spacious,
+and not unpicturesque; many of the cottages are neat, some few furnished
+for lodgings: and there is a comfortable small inn. This place is
+commonly called Brison, and one clergyman names it Brightstone.
+
+MOTTISTONE succeeds: a pretty hamlet nearly shrouded in wood, with a
+very picturesque church. On an elevated part of the farm are the remains
+of some small druidical temple called LONGSTONE, which is a rude piece
+of rock of a quadrangular figure, evidently erected by art, and rears
+itself about twelve feet above the ground; near it another large stone
+lies partly buried in the earth, of not less than eight feet long.
+
+BROOK is the last village we pass till we reach Freshwater: much the
+same character as the others: the Mansion-house, which is surrounded
+with wood, being the only object to notice, besides the little church,
+which we shall presently pass, posted solitarily on an eminence near the
+foot of the down.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE WESTERN QUARTER OF THE ISLAND, DISTINGUISHED
+
+FOR ITS
+
+SUBLIME SCENERY.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Road over the Downs from Brooke to Freshwater-gate._
+
+     We shall now leave the familiar scenes of cultivation and of
+     village life for a time, to enjoy the charms of unbounded prospect,
+     as we journey for four miles over a succession of pasturing downs,
+     where in many parts our road will be upon a natural carpet of the
+     finest turf.
+
+     Tasteless indeed must be those who can travel over these lofty and
+     _beautiful_ downs, without experiencing the most lively
+     gratification from the checquered and magnificent prospects which
+     invite their contemplation on every side: but to enjoy the pleasure
+     in perfection we must occasionally pause, to discriminate (by
+     reference to a friend or a map,) some of the more remarkable
+     features.--Looking to the westward, the high cliffs of Freshwater
+     stretch away in a noble promontory of three miles, forming the
+     foreground to the soft azure perspective of the coast of Dorset:
+     but to the north, so diversified is the extensive landscape with
+     towns and villages, hills, woods, forests, sea, and river, as to
+     mock our most ardent wishes to convey even a faint idea of the
+     grandeur of the composition.
+
+     Another source of no inconsiderable pleasure, when traversing these
+     beautiful downs,--soaring as it were in the higher regions--is
+     feeling that we actually breathe the purest atmosphere, so
+     exhilarating to the human frame. Nor is the reverse of this
+     desirable clearness of the weather without its share of
+     amusement--to witness the formation of clouds, as the vapors are
+     drawn up from the sea, and gradually condensed; rolling by, and
+     enveloping us in their misty volumes. It is true indeed, that these
+     exhibitions are not without danger to the traveller, lest he
+     unwarily approach too near the fatal precipice: but this
+     circumstance imposing the necessity of caution, excites an
+     _interest_--and interest is the very zest of adventure. [Footnote:
+     Near the edge of the cliffs about half a mile eastward of
+     Freshwater-gate, a small tablet has lately been erected, to
+     commemorate the unfortunate fate of a youth who slipped over and
+     perished on the rocks beneath.--Some years ago two successive
+     keepers of the Needles Light-house lost their lives in a similar
+     manner over the precipices on which that establishment is located.]
+
+     In short, whether for the splendor of the prospects, the refreshing
+     purity of the air, or the novelty of literally walking in the
+     clouds, we esteem the journey over these downs, as pleasurable as
+     any portion of the tour.
+
+We shall now suppose the Visitor to be descending the last down, and in
+a few minutes, walking on the beach--here to commence his examination of
+ ...
+
+
+THE FRESHWATER CLIFFS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: FRESHWATER BAY, I.W. _(The two remarkable isolated Rocks
+and Entrance to the principal Cavern.)_]
+
+    "Suspended cliffs, with hideous sway,
+    Seem nodding o'er the caverns gray."
+
+>>_Several romantic_ CAVERNS _near Freshwater-gate: the Needles_
+LIGHT-HOUSE--_and the wonderfully_ COLORED SANDS _of Alum Bay, are
+accessible without taking boat: the celebrated_ NEEDLE ROCKS _are seen
+(though not to advantage,) from the down and beach: but the_ GRAND ARCH,
+_the_ WEDGE-ROCK, _and several deep_ CAVERNS _and other curiosities of
+Rock-scenery, can be viewed only by water, which is extremely desirable
+in calm weather._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE WHITE CLIFFS OF ALBION is so favorite a poetical designation of the
+English coast, that it is with some degree of pride we hail our
+"sea-girt isle" as surpassing in the magnificence and splendor of this
+characteristic, every other part of the kingdom; for even Shakspeare's
+cliff at Dover, immortalized as it is by the pen of the bard himself, is
+little more than half the elevation of some of the chalk precipices of
+the Isle of Wight,--which, at Freshwater, rise from the bosom of the
+blue ocean with a perpendicular face of the most dazzling whiteness, the
+sublime altitude of more than 600 feet!--being nearly one-half higher
+than the pinnacles either of St. Paul's or Salisbury Cathedrals.
+
+A stranger from the inland districts, who may never have seen a
+precipice upon a grander scale than is presented by the sides of some
+deep chalk-pit, would be at a loss to imagine wherein consisted the
+BEAUTY and the INTEREST of such seemingly monotonous scenes; especially
+when informed that they are indebted to no borrowed ornament from either
+tree or shrub: and indeed it would prove equally difficult on our part
+to furnish a comprehensive definition. One eminent writer
+enthusiastically eulogises their appearance as "_singularly elegant_
+when viewed at a proper distance; and with the Needle Rocks,
+constituting a whole that is scarcely to be equalled:"--another declares
+that "the most lofty and magnificent fabrics of Art, compared with
+these stupendous works of Nature, sink in idea to Lilliputian
+size:"--and a third, that "the towering precipices of Scratchell's Bay
+are of the most elegant forms;" and "the pearly hue of the chalk is
+beyond description by words, probably out of the power even of the
+pencil."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As almost every visitor has a card of _all the local curiosities_
+presented to him by some of the boatmen of the place, it would be
+useless here to describe individually the several objects deserving
+personal observation: we shall therefore confine our notice to a few of
+the most prominent,--commencing at ...
+
+FRESHWATER-GATE,
+
+Remarkable for the brilliancy as well as beauty of the surrounding
+promontories, of which an enchanting view is presented as we descend
+from the downs. The outline of the precipices is here extremely bold,
+forming several charming little coves or bays, and penetrated at the
+base by numerous deep CAVERNS of the most romantic formation, that are
+exceedingly interesting to visitors when explored. But what contributes
+most to the picturesque character of the scenery is the presence of
+several immense isolated rocks of grotesque shape, that rise from 30 to
+60 feet above the sea. Two of these will particularly attract attention,
+namely, the _Arched_, and the _Deer-pound_, [Footnote: This name was
+given to the rock from the fact, it is said, of a deer having leaped on
+it from the main land, when closely pursued by the hounds of the late
+Lord Holmes, about 70 or 80 years ago: at which time the separation
+could have been but a few yards! Whatever credit may be attached to this
+anecdote by the reader, it at least serves to show the opinion which the
+older inhabitants entertain of the progressive waste of land at this
+part of the coast (the face of the cliffs being constantly exposed to
+the weather and undermining action of the sea); and we remember it was
+but a few years back when the top of this same rock was covered with a
+considerable patch of green sod.] they are the remains of the original
+cliff, but being composed of more stubborn and adhesive materials, have
+long resisted the lashing waves and warring elements, while the parent
+cliffs are constantly receding and forming a wider separation.
+
+Here are two respectable Hotels: the _Albion_, close to the beach; and
+_Plumbly's_, on the cliff: both of which offer to their guests the charm
+of hearing ...
+
+              ----"The restless waves that roar,
+    And fling their foam against the rocky shore."
+
+The CAVERN in Freshwater Bay was formerly an object of no little
+curiosity to those who had never seen any thing similar of a more
+striking character; but the romantic effect, and consequently interest
+of the scene has been greatly injured by the fall falling-in of the
+arched roof. Now, however, visitors can easily investigate other caverns
+of a similar nature at WATCOMBE BAY (to which a good road has been made
+from Plumbly's Hotel,) where there is also a pyramidical rock, curiously
+perforated at the base.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     >> A very common way of seeing these precipices is to go by water
+     to Alum Bay, there land, walk up to the Light-house, and return by
+     the beacon: or take boat at Alum Bay, and sail round the Needles or
+     to Freshwater Bay, just as fancy may suggest. Some proceed on foot
+     from Freshwater-gate to the Needles Light-house (about three
+     miles), on the green sod, near the margin of the cliffs: other
+     parties again go round by the carriage-road the whole distance in
+     their vehicles. As, however, the grandest scenes can only be
+     visited by boat, we shall best perform our duty as Cicerone by
+     pointing them out as they appear in an aquatic excursion--that to
+     parties generally affords a degree of elevated pleasure to which
+     nothing else in the island can bear any comparison. Yet should the
+     weather be too rough for this to be enjoyed, the visit to
+     Freshwater may prove not the less interesting: since it is
+     impossible for any spectacle to exceed in sublimity that which is
+     displayed when a storm is raging around the majestic cliffs and
+     vast detached rocks that here encounter the winds and waves of the
+     British Channel:--
+
+    "Down bursts the gale--the surges sweep,
+    Like gathering hosts, against the steep,
+    Sheeting, with clouds of snowy spray,
+    Its lofty forehead, old and gray.
+    With sudden shriek and cowering wing,
+    To the wild cliff the sea-birds spring;
+    Careering o'er the darken'd heaven,
+    The clouds in warring heaps are driven;
+    And crested high with lawny foam,
+    Rushes the mighty billow home."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+(Another Hotel is situated on the north side of the down, within sight
+of the Needles, by whose name it is distinguished.)
+
+[Illustration: WATCOMBE BAY _FRESHWATER ISLE OF WIGHT._]
+
+From Watcombe Bay the precipices continue to increase in height till
+they reach their greatest elevation (617 feet) at HIGH-DOWN, on which
+the beacon is erected: they are however less perpendicular here than we
+shall presently find them; and the more sloping portions are covered by
+extensive patches of turf, samphire, &c., which vary the pure white of
+the upright masses, though perhaps the lofty appearance of the whole is
+thereby rather diminished, at least to a spectator at their base.
+Amongst the most remarkable objects in this part of the range are
+NEPTUNE'S CAVE, and LORD HOLMES'S PARLOUR:--the latter, a cavern of
+considerable height and breadth, derives its name from the nobleman,
+whose name it bears, having occasionally enjoyed a repast with his
+friends in the briny coolness of its shade, at least so tradition tells
+us: it can be easily entered by boat in calm weather: and when viewed
+from beneath its rough vaulted roof, has certainly a very romantic
+appearance.
+
+A little further on is the WEDGE-ROCK, a most singular result of
+accident; being a piece of rock about twelve feet long by six or eight
+wide, exactly the shape of a wedge, resting between the main cliff and a
+large mass of detached chalk, just as if fixed there by some gigantic
+hand to effect the separation. It is often practicable to land here, and
+it is worth while on the part of the young and active, were it only to
+be satisfied how extremely deceptive is the appearance of the rocks and
+broken green ledges, as to their size and extent of surface,--for few
+would suppose (in passing by,) that the piece near the Wedge-rock
+contains upwards of an acre of ground.--The pyramidical mass connected
+with the Wedge is about fifty feet high, and a hundred long at the base.
+
+     Our friends will remember (as has been before said,) that we leave
+     the history of many curious rocks and caverns to be given by the
+     local watermen; for personal examination will invest a scene or
+     object with a degree of interest which cannot be felt by the
+     reader, who may have no expectation of ever seeing them.
+
+Passing the OLD PEPPER-ROCK, a picturesque detached mass at the foot of
+the chalk--we find ourselves under the noble promontory of MAIN-BENCH,
+where the precipices again rise to upwards, of six hundred feet in
+height: and being nearly perpendicular, present a truly sublime aspect,
+viewed either from above or below: while the constant washing of the
+waves at the lower part, by removing the looser particles of chalk,
+gives it much the appearance of having been built with vast blocks of
+masonry. As the water is deep even close to the cliff, and beautifully
+transparent in calm weather, the reflection on its surface of the crags
+above, and the sunken rocks and marine plants which appear beneath, must
+add considerably to the interest of our aquatic excursion. Main-bench
+terminates in a bold bluff or projecting angle called SUN CORNER;
+rounding which, we enter ...
+
+SCRATCHELL'S BAY, universally considered by visitors as the most
+memorable spot on the island coast, alike for the grandeur, beauty, and
+variety of its scenery. The dazzling whiteness of the chalk is here
+relieved by thin curving beds of dark flint, which regularly divide it
+into parallel strata of eight or ten feet thickness; the towering
+precipices are of the most picturesque shapes; and the Needle Rocks form
+an inimitable termination to the scene. Just within the bay is the
+NEEDLES CAVE, the deepest along the whole range, as it penetrates the
+chalk 300 feet: but the _unique_ feature which above all the rest claims
+attention is the niche-like recess in the face of the cliff,
+appropriately designated ...
+
+THE GRAND ARCH;
+
+It indicates little that is remarkable at a distance; but a truly
+sublime effect is produced when the stranger is placed under its awful
+roof with his back against the concave chalk: for he then sees above him
+a magnificent Arch two hundred feet in height and overhanging the beach
+at least one hundred and eighty!--yet so true, nay, even elegant is the
+sweep, that it rather resembles the stupendous work of Art, than the
+casual production of Nature. To form an idea of the sublimity of the
+scene, the reader should task his memory with the dimensions of some of
+the proudest architectural monuments in Great Britain: and the
+comparison would immediately remove all doubt, that a sight of the Arch
+itself would amply repay the trouble of a visit to Freshwater.
+
+[Illustration: SCRATCHELL'S BAY, _And the NEEDLE ROCKS, as viewed from a
+bold Bluff called Sun Corner, being the termination of the Freshwater
+Cliffs.--Isle if Wight._]
+
+Scratchell's Bay is about half-a-mile in breadth; being formed by Sun
+Corner and the Grand Arch on the eastern side, and on the west by the
+
+NEEDLE ROCKS,
+
+Which stretch out into the sea a considerable distance: they are remains
+of the original cliff, and forcibly illustrate the destructive power of
+the ocean's stormy winds and waves, which in successive ages have
+removed so vast a quantity of the adjacent chalk. Nor are their ravages
+at all diminished at the present time: for it is only within the last
+few years that the smallest rock has been completely insulated; while
+another immense mass of the cliff is evidently separating by degrees,
+and will probably become ere long entirely detached, forming a
+magnificent pyramid two or three hundred feet high. It is impossible to
+convey by verbal description a correct idea of these celebrated rocks:
+for in passing round or through them, they assume a different shape
+almost every dozen yards; sometimes appearing like a continuation of the
+main promontory,--sometimes as one or more lofty acuminated
+pyramids,--or again we see the different masses extending in nearly a
+straight line, between which we catch a distant view of Christchurch and
+other objects on the opposite coast. The name (inappropriate to their
+present form,) was derived from a spiry rock, 120 feet high and very
+slender, which fell in the year 1764, having been nearly worn through by
+the incessant action of the tides: its base however is still visible at
+low water.
+
+     The _Pomone_, a fifty-gun frigate, was wrecked on the most western
+     of these rocks, on June 11th, 1811, when returning home after an
+     absence of three years; but owing to the fineness of the weather,
+     the crew and passengers, including some Persian princes, reached
+     the shore in safety; and most of her guns and stores were removed
+     before she went to pieces. "The vessel," says Mr. Webster,
+     "afforded me a scale by which to judge of the size of the Needles,
+     and I was surprized to find that the hull of the frigate did not
+     reach one-fourth of their height." The entrance to the Solent
+     Channel "through the Needles" was always considered hazardous for
+     ships of great burthen, not only on account of those rocks, but
+     also of the immense banks of pebbles or "Shingles" that lie to the
+     westward: recent surveys have however ascertained that the channel
+     has sufficient width and depth for the safe passage of the largest
+     ships of war.
+
+ALUM BAY.
+
+The brilliant and novel display of rock scenery which this spot affords,
+and its being easily accessible either by water or land (for a road
+leads to it from the north side of the down), cause it to be universally
+visited by strangers who extend their tour to this quarter of the
+island. It is bounded on the south by the Needles and the snowy
+precipices of which they once formed part: but its greatest celebrity is
+owing to the wonderful diversity and brightness in the cliffs on the
+opposite side, which are composed of sand, clay, and ochreous earths,
+disposed in alternate _vertical_ strata: and as the torrents of winter
+carry away vast masses of the soil, forming numerous deep ravines--an
+endless variety of the most beautiful peaks and romantic forms are thus
+produced. The colored strata vary in thickness from a sheet of paper to
+several yards; are now purely white, black, red, or yellow; then brown,
+blueish, or dull green,--alternating in a surprizing manner with each
+other, or blending into every hue: and many of the tints so vivid, yet
+so delicate, that they are justly compared to the variegations of a
+tulip, or to the shades of silk. "Alum Bay," says an eminent geologist,
+"is so extraordinary a place, that I am unable to explain in adequate
+terms, the surprize I felt on first seeing it. The scenery is indeed of
+a species unique in this country: and nothing that I had previously seen
+bore the least resemblance to it." This spot owes its name to the fact
+of alum having been occasionally found on its shores.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+And now, having pointed out the most remarkable features in the cliffs,
+it only remains to notice THE LIGHT-HOUSE, which is a gratifying object
+of curiosity to persons unacquainted with the nature of such an
+establishment, it stands near the extremity of the down, and commands a
+prospect of great extent and beauty, particularly of the unrivaled
+scenery of Alum Bay. The Needles are seen to most advantage from the
+water: but when this has not been enjoyed, the party should cautiously
+approach within a few yards of the precipice, "and to those whose nerves
+are proof against the horrors of the position, the new into the bays
+beneath, and of the cliffs and Needle Rocks, is extremely sublime. The
+agitation and sound of the waves below are hardly perceived, and it is
+scarcely possible to imagine that the quiet expanse which now seems
+stretched in boundless repose under the eye, is the same turbulent
+element which had but lately been seen bursting in clouds of foam, and
+thundering on its rocky shore.--In hard blowing weather, the fury of the
+wind on this promontory is scarcely credible. Very large flints and
+fragments of chalk are blown from the cliffs, so as to endanger the
+windows of the light-house; and for many days in succession, it is
+scarcely possible to open the door."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     The precipices of Freshwater, like those at Bembridge, are
+     frequented at periodical seasons by prodigious flights of sea-fowl
+     of various kinds. The birds are taken by the country-people at the
+     hazard of their lives; they descend by means of a stout rope which
+     turns round a crow-bar firmly fixed in the ground above; one end of
+     the rope being fastened about their body, and the other end held in
+     their hands, by which they lower and raise themselves from ledge to
+     ledge of the horrid precipice. The aquatic fowl furnish most
+     amusing sport to numberless shooting-parties during the season. The
+     principal species are ... puffins, gulls, cormorants, Cornish
+     choughs, the eider duck, auks, divers, guillemots, razor-bills,
+     widgeons, willocks, daws, starlings, and pigeons. Their
+     breeding-season is in the months of May, June, and July, and
+     towards the end of August the greater part of them migrate with
+     their new generations. Their flesh is too rank and fishy to be
+     eaten, and is used only for baiting crab and lobster pots; the
+     feathers are valuable, and the eggs are bought chiefly by visitors
+     for curiosity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ROADS TO YARMOUTH, NEWPORT, &c.
+
+>> _Having visited the western extremity of the Island, we
+return--either by_ CALBOURNE _to Newport, which is the nearest; or round
+by_ YARMOUTH, _this being perhaps the less monotonous road of the two._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The tourist, on leaving the magnificent scenes of the western coast, can
+hardly expect to see many spots in the remainder of his journey, capable
+of engaging his attention. He may still however enjoy some very charming
+prospects, particularly in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth, whither we
+shall now suppose him to shape his course.
+
+We shall pass two seats: FARRINGFORD, on the north side of the down,
+surrounded by flourishing plantations; and about a mile and a half
+further, the fine old manor-house of AFTON.
+
+THE VILLAGE OF FRESHWATER is prettily interspersed with wood; but except
+the church (whose front is more picturesque than most in the island),
+has nothing to notice;--unless it should fortunately happen to be
+high-tide at the time of our passing, and then the RIVER YAR will have a
+lovely effect--winding between gently rising banks feathered with grove
+and copse, shrouding here a mansion, and there a cottage; while
+pleasure-boats and an unusual number of swans are seen gliding and
+sporting on its silver bosom.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Passing over a neat bridge, and through the fertile parish of THORLEY,
+whose church is the plainest in the island, we reach
+
+YARMOUTH,
+
+Standing opposite Lymington, and once a place of considerable
+importance, having obtained a charter of franchises in the reign of
+Henry II: it is very clean and open,--and being situated in the
+neighbourhood of the most interesting coast scenery, is upon the whole
+an agreeable place, particularly for gentlemen partial to marine
+pleasures. Its chief support is derived from the shipping that anchor in
+its excellent roadsted, and the passengers to and from Lymington; there
+are three inns--the principal one (the George,) is a large ancient
+building, formerly the Governor's house, where King Charles II was
+entertained by Sir Rt. Holmes on his paying the island a visit in
+1667.--The Church has recently received the ornament of a new tower, and
+the interior boasts a good statue of the above-named Sir Robert. The
+Castle (as it is called), is a heavy, plain mass of building,
+constructed in the reign of Henry VIII to protect this entrance to the
+Solent Channel.
+
+The village of NORTON is on the opposite side of the river, where there
+are several very respectable villas,--so sheltered by groves and
+shrubberies, that the whole neighbourhood presents the delightful
+appearance of a bold foreland completely shrouded in wood, even to the
+water's edge.
+
+     Opposite _Carey's Sconce_, half a mile west of Norton, is HURST
+     CASTLE, built at the extremity of a long strip of shingly land
+     stretching out from the Hampshire coast, which here contracts the
+     width of the Solent Channel to less than a mile. Close by are two
+     Light-houses, erected for the purpose of assisting ships to clear
+     the passage through the Needles.
+
+Four miles from Yarmouth we pass through SHALFLEET, a clean and populous
+village: the Church is next the road, of a heavy construction,--yet
+affording a good subject for a sketch. Northward is NEWTOWN, a very
+ancient borough; which was a populous place in the time of Richard II
+(when it was burned by the French, but soon afterwards rebuilt), and
+though now reduced to a few humble cottages, the course of its streets
+may yet be traced. It has a new church, of a neat design; and is noted
+for its extensive salterns, and convenient haven.--Previously to the
+passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Yarmouth and Newtown each returned
+two members to parliament.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Road by Calbourne and Carisbrooke._
+
+The direct road from Freshwater-gate to Newport runs for the first three
+or four miles at the northern foot of the range of downs described at p.
+89; presenting no object worthy of separate remark till we reach
+CALBOURNE, a considerable village, having a decent small inn. The pretty
+situation of its neat little Church and Parsonage,--the handsome mansion
+and luxuriant plantations of a first-rate seat called WESTOVER, close
+by,--with a small stream running through the grounds and in front of the
+neighbouring cottages,--altogether produce a very pleasing scene ...
+
+    "Where sweet simplicity resides, which Grace
+    And Beauty call their own."
+
+Two miles further we pass SWAINSTON, another principal seat: the mansion
+lies below the road, surrounded by trees; a copious stream, well stored
+with fish, runs through the gardens and plantations, which are extensive
+and judiciously laid-out; and the prospect-temple which crowns the hill
+on the right is a very conspicuous object. From hence the road is on
+the slope of a series of hills, often picturesquely shrouded in groves
+and hanging woods; while in the more open parts some extensive views are
+presented of the north side of the island, the sea, and the opposite
+coast of Hampshire; but the prospect which is opened as we descend into
+Carisbrooke is particularly grand: the village makes an admirable
+foreground, backed by lofty hills,--on the left we see the town of
+Newport and its adjoining hamlets, with E. Cowes Park, &c. in the
+distance,--and on the right,
+
+    "High o'er the pines, that with their dark'ning shade
+      Surround yon craggy bank, THE CASTLE rears
+    Its crumbling turrets: still its towering head
+      A warlike mien, a sullen grandeur wears!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+LANDMARKS AND OTHER CONSPICUOUS OBJECTS
+
+_Erected on the Hills._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The fact of so many of the hills and downs being crowned with some
+far-seen object, such as a light-house, obelisk, or telegraph, must be a
+source of considerable interest to a traveller in the Isle of Wight, not
+only by their often giving an identity and attraction to many of those
+broad features of scenery which would otherwise be comparatively tame
+and monotonous, but also by enabling him to determine the bearings and
+situation of places in their vicinity.
+
+     We shall here name a few of the most conspicuous of these objects,
+     nearly in the order pursued in the preceding description of the
+     Tour of the Island:--most of them being visible from the
+     neighbourhood of Newport, which, as we have before stated, occupies
+     a central position. We shall therefore commence with Carisbrooke
+     Castle.
+
+     At West Cowes--the Church-tower, and Windmills. At East
+     Cowes--Towers of Osborne, Norris, and East Cowes Castle. At
+     Wootton--the Prospect-tower of Fernhill. Southward of Ryde--a large
+     Windmill. On Ashey Down--the Sea-mark. At Bembridge--Mill on the
+     Down. Godshill--the Church: behind which, on Appuldurcombe Down, is
+     an Obelisk and private Signal-station. On Shanklin Down--Cooke's
+     Castle. St. Catharine's Down--ancient Tower, and old Light-house;
+     on the sea-cliffs, the new Light-house; on the northern extremity
+     of the down, the Alexandrian Pillar. Freshwater Downs--Light-house,
+     and Beacon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TOURS OF THE ISLAND.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     Some years ago it was customary for the then limited number of
+     Post-masters to adopt a regular three-days' Tour of the island,
+     dividing it into the North-eastern, the Southern, and the
+     North-western; differing but very little except as to the _order_
+     of the days' excursion. Not so now--for a hundred plans would
+     hardly describe all "the Tours" recommended by the different
+     inn-keepers and numerous other letters-out of vehicles for
+     pleasure-parties; to say nothing of the wide difference between the
+     visitors themselves, as regards the _Time_ allowed.--We have
+     anticipated, we hope, every question on the subject, by the
+     arrangement in the preceding pages: but still it may be
+     satisfactory to some of our readers, to see the most generally
+     adopted Routes. The reader will perceive that _Appuldurcombe_ is
+     frequently left as the object of a separate day's trip.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CONTINUED TOUR FROM RYDE.
+
+    FIRST DAY
+                                   MILES
+    St. John's: St. Clare, &c.,        1
+    The Priory,                        2
+    St. Helen's Green,                 1
+    Bembridge (crossing ferry),        1
+    Yaverland,                     3-1/2
+    Sandown Fort and Village,      1-1/2
+    Shanklin Chine and Village,        3
+    Luccombe Chine,                1-1/2
+    East End,                      0-1/2
+    Bonchurch--Ventnor,                2
+    Steephill Castle,                  1
+    St. Lawrence,                      1
+    Niton,                         2-1/2
+      Sleep here, or at Blackgang.------
+                                  23-1/2
+
+
+    SECOND DAY
+
+    St. Catharine's Light-house,   0-1/2
+    Sandrock Spring,               0-1/2
+    Blackgang Chine,               0-1/2
+    Chale,                         0-1/2
+    Kingston,                      2-1/2
+    Shorwell and Northcourt,           2
+    Brixton,                           2
+    Mottistone,                        2
+    Brooke,                            1
+    Freshwater-gate,                   4
+    Needles Light-house,           3-1/2
+    Alum Bay,                          1
+      Sleep at Fr. gate or A. Bay.------
+                                      20
+
+
+    THIRD DAY
+
+    Yarmouth,                          6
+    Calbourne and Westover,            6
+    Swainston,                     1-1/2
+    Carisbrooke Village,               3
+    Newport,                           1
+    Parkhurst Prison,                  1
+    West Cowes,                        4
+    East Cowes (crossing ferry),   0-1/2
+    Whippingham Church,                2
+    Wootton-bridge,                    3
+    Quarr Abbey,                       1
+    Ryde,                          2-1/2
+                                  ------
+                                  31-1/2
+
+
+_Tour from Ryde, in which Parties sleep but one Night in the Country._
+
+FIRST DAY: St. Helen's 4 miles, Bembridge 1, Yaverland and Sandown 5,
+Shanklin 3, Luccombe and East End 2, Bonchurch and Ventnor 2, Wroxall
+2, Newchurch 4, Ryde 6--total 29 miles, or by Brading 26.
+
+SECOND DAY: Wootton 3-1/2, Arreton 4, Godshill and Appuldurcombe 5,
+Steephill 3, St. Lawrence 1, Niton 2-1/2, Arreton 7, Wootton 4, Ryde
+3-1/2--total 33-1/2 miles.
+
+THIRD DAY: Through Wootton to Newport 7, Carisbrooke 1, Shorwell 4,
+Brixton 2, Mottistone 2, Brooke 1, Freshwater-gate 4, Needles-point
+3-1/2, Alum Bay 1,--total 25-1/2 miles. Sleep at Fr. gate or Alum
+Bay.--FOURTH DAY: Yarmouth 6, Shalfleet 4, Barracks, &c. 5-1/2, West
+Cowes, 4, East Cowes 0-1/2, Whippingham 2, Wootton 3, Ryde 3-1/2--total
+28-1/2 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GENERAL TOUR FROM COWES.
+
+    FIRST DAY.
+
+    House of Industry, &c.           4
+    Newport,                         1
+    Carisbrooke Castle,              1
+    Swainston, on the right,         3
+    Calbourne and Westover,      1-1/2
+    Yarmouth,                        6
+    Alum Bay,                        6
+    The Needles Light-house,         1
+    Freshwater-gate,             3-1/2
+      Sleep here, or at Alum Bay.-----
+                                    28
+
+
+    SECOND DAY.
+
+    Brooke--Mottistone,              5
+    Brixton                          2
+    Shorwell and Northcourt,         2
+    Chale and Blackgang Chine,       5
+    Sandrock Spring,             0-1/2
+    St. Catharine's Light-house, 0-1/2
+    Niton Village,               0-1/2
+    St. Lawrence Church, &c.     2-1/2
+    Steephill Castle,                1
+    Ventnor, and Bonchurch,          2
+    East End,                        1
+    Luccombe Chine,              0-1/2
+    Shanklin Chine and Village,  1-1/2
+      Sleep here, or at Ventnor.------
+                                    24
+
+
+    THIRD DAY.
+
+    Sandown Fort and Village,        3
+    Yaverland Church, &c.        1-1/2
+    Bembridge.--Cross ferry,     3-1/2
+    St. Helen's Green,               1
+    The Priory, on the right,        1
+    St. Clare--St. John's,           2
+    Ryde                             1
+    Wootton-bridge--Fernhill,    3-1/2
+    Whippingham Church,              3
+    East Cowes,                      2
+                                ------
+                                21-1/2
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+TOURS FROM NEWPORT.
+
+    NORTH-EASTERN TOUR.
+
+    Fernhill--Wootton-bridge,    3-1/2
+    Quarr Abbey,                 1-1/2
+    Ryde,                            2
+    St. John's--St. Clare,           1
+    The Priory,                      2
+    St. Helen's Green,               1
+    Cross ferry to Bembridge,        1
+    Yaverland Church, &c.        3-1/2
+    Sandown Fort and Village,    1-1/2
+    Brading Down,                    3
+    Ashey Sea-mark,                  2
+    Down-end,                        2
+    Newport,                         3
+                                ------
+                                    27
+
+    SOUTHERN TOUR.
+
+    Arreton Church,                  4
+    Shanklin,                        6
+    Luccombe--East End,              2
+    Bonchurch and Ventnor,           2
+    Steephill Castle,                1
+    St. Lawrence,                    1
+    Niton,                       2-1/2
+    St. Catharine's Light-house, 0-1/2
+    Sandrock Spring,             0-1/2
+    Blackgang Chine              0-1/2
+    Chale,                           1
+    Gatcombe,                    4-1/2
+    Newport,                         4
+      (Or return by Rookley.)   ------
+                                    29
+
+    WESTERN TOUR.
+
+    Carisbrooke,                     1
+    Shorwell and Northcourt,         4
+    Brixton,                         2
+    Mottistone,                      2
+    Brooke,                          1
+    Freshwater-gate,                 4
+    Needles Light-house,         3-1/2
+    Alum Bay,                        1
+    Yarmouth,                        6
+    Calbourne and Westover,          6
+    Swainston,                   1-1/2
+    Carisbrooke Village,             3
+    Newport,                         1
+      (Or return by Shalfleet.) ------
+                                    36
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A VOYAGE ROUND THE ISLAND
+
+If the weather be favorable, will prove very interesting, and indeed be
+necessary to enable us to form a just estimate of the local attractions,
+since many of the scenes we have described are seen to most advantage
+from the water. Steamers perform the trip two or three times a-week
+during the season (usually in about eight hours): and sailing-craft from
+Ryde and Cowes are often engaged by parties for the same purpose.
+
+If we sail to the eastward on leaving Cowes Harbour, the first objects
+demanding our attention are Norris Castle and the royal Palace of
+Osborne, with their extensive lawns sweeping to the shore, shaded by
+numerous groups of noble trees. After passing the Creeks of King's Quay
+and Wootton, we have a partial sight of Binstead: and a most
+comprehensive view of the fashionable town of Ryde, just as we leave the
+Pier. Hence to St. Helen's the coast forms several beautiful bays, lined
+with gentlemen's seats and villas, hamlets, and luxuriant woods.
+
+Brading Haven, with the adjacent villages of Bembridge, St. Helen's, and
+Brading,--the whole encompassed by a semi-circular range of lofty
+hills--forms a very agreeable picture, especially at the time of high
+water. Our readers will have no difficulty in recognising the landmark
+of St. Helen's tower on the beach, and that on Ashey Down, about four
+miles inland.
+
+Two miles further are the lofty Culver Cliffs, forming the north side of
+Sandown Bay, on whose shores stand the village and fort of the same
+name. At the southern extremity of this extensive bay rise the dark
+precipices of Dunnose, penetrated by the Chines of Shanklin and
+Luccombe. Near the latter commences the celebrated tract called the
+Undercliff, whose varied and unique charms are nowhere so advantageously
+seen as from the water, "whence it rises like a series of gigantic steps
+that seem to lead from the lofty cliffs on the shore, to the summit of
+the grand perpendicular wall" that bounds it on the land-side.--East
+End, the lovely village of Bonchurch, the fast-increasing town of
+Ventnor, and the stately castle of Steephill, are all fully presented to
+our view: and less distinctly through the groves in which they are for
+the most part embosomed, the villas of St. Lawrence, Old Park, Mirables,
+&c. Beyond the pretty little cove of Puckaster we see part of Niton
+village; and close to the shore, the gigantic tower of the Light-house.
+A mile further is the Sandrock Spring, in the midst of a wild tract,
+that terminates in the gloomy ravine called Blackgang Chine, backed by
+the tower-crowned eminence of St. Catharine's Hill.
+
+Hence to Compton Bay the coast is dreary and comparatively monotonous;
+but we have a tolerable view of some of the smaller chines, and also of
+the fine range of downs that stretch from the centre of the island to
+its western extremity. Almost the whole extent of Freshwater Cliffs
+meets the eye at once: but there is no great difficulty in recognizing
+the most noted rocks, caves, &c. as we pass along. The various forms
+which are exhibited by those huge masses of chalk the Needles, as we
+approach and leave them, in connection with the beautiful precipices of
+Scratchell's Bay, form perhaps the most interesting circumstance of our
+voyage: the light-house seems placed on the very brink of the precipice:
+and the brilliant scenery of Alum Bay will appear to advantage,
+especially if it be a sunny afternoon.
+
+Beyond this the coast consists of steep broken slopes and earthy cliffs,
+some of them of considerable altitude, but presents no object of
+particular interest till we near the river Yar, with its adjacent town
+and villas: Newtown Creek opens about three miles further on. West
+Cowes, as we approach it from Thorness Bay, has a beautiful aspect,
+numerous genteel villas and first-rate lodging-houses covering the shore
+for nearly a mile: and the ever-amusing scene of Cowes harbour will form
+a delightful termination to our voyage.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Passage and Conveyance.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+JUNE 1, 1849.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BY STEAM-PACKETS.
+
+     >>_Strangers are particularly requested to attend to the following
+     recommendation._--We have always made it a point to delay the
+     publication of our Guides to as late a period as we well could
+     (often to a degree of inconvenience), in order that our readers may
+     be furnished with an accurate statement of the precise time of the
+     several passage-vessels starting to or from the island: but this,
+     instead of an advantage, often proved a disappointment: for perhaps
+     a change of hours unexpectedly took place within a week or
+     fortnight afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the
+     time of the railways, or from some motive on the part of one or
+     other of the steam-packet companies. We therefore particularly
+     advise strangers to make inquiry at the local inns, on board the
+     packets, or at the railway or booking offices, in all cases where
+     it is of important consequence to know exactly to a minute.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    _Between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde, & Portsmouth._
+
+    FROM MORN. AFT.
+
+    South'n to Cowes at. 3-1/2 8.40 10.40--1-3/4 4.40 7
+            Ryde and Portsmo. 8.40 10.40--1-3/4 4.40
+    Portsmouth to Cowes 8.40 10--2 4-1/2 6-1/2
+                  Southampton 8.40 10--2 4-1/2
+    Ryde to Cowes 9-1/4 10-1/2--2-1/2 5 7
+            Southampton 9-1/4 10-1/2--2-1/2 5
+    Cowes to Ryde 10 12--3-1/2 6-1/4
+             Portsmouth 6-3/4 10 12--3-1/2 6.15
+             South'n. 8-3/4 10.40 12--3-3/4 6-1/4 8-3/4
+    South'n to East Cowes 3-1/2 10.40--1-3/4 4.40
+    E. Cowes to South'ton. 8.35 11.50--3.35 6
+
+        On Sundays the passages are less frequent.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Portsmouth, Portsea, Gosport, and Ryde._
+
+From Gosport at 8.10, 9.45, 10.50, 11.50, 1-1/2, 2-1/2, 5-1/4, 6.35.
+From Portsea at 8.15, 9.50, 10.55 11.55, 1.35, 2.35, 5.25, 6.40. From
+Portsmouth each passage five minutes later.
+
+From Ryde at 7.20, 9, 11, 12, 1-1/4, 2-1/2, 4-1/4, & 6.
+
+ON SUNDAYS:
+
+    From Portsmouth at 8, 3, and 5.
+    From Ryde at 9, 4, and 6.
+
+>>_In the height of the season, steamers leave Southampton for Cowes on
+the arrival of every Railway train,--and Cowes for Southampton in time
+to meet every Train: and between Portsmouth and Ryde run about every
+hour from 7 to 7._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     From LYMINGTON--the _Glasgow_ runs to Yarmouth three or four times
+     a-day: the _Solent_ every morning to Cowes, whence she proceeds on
+     alternate days to Southampton and Portsmouth--and by suiting her
+     time to that of the other steamers, maintains a daily communication
+     between all these places.
+
+The steamers from Portsmouth, Southampton, and Lymington, tow
+horse-boats across.
+
+During summer, Steamers frequently make trips round the island, usually
+in about seven hours.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Regular Sailing Passage-boats._
+
+FROM COWES to NEWPORT, daily: the hours depending upon the state of the
+tide.
+
+From WOOTTON to PORTSMOUTH at 9 and 4 (3 or earlier in winter), daily:
+and from Portsmouth at 9 and 2-1/2.
+
+From BEMBRIDGE to Portsmouth and back, every other day, or oftener, in
+summer.
+
+To POOLE the sailing-hoys run twice a-week, calling off Cowes and
+Yarmouth.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Land-Conveyances.
+
+The STAGE-COACHES.--The following are the summer arrangements for
+1849:--
+
+From Newport to Ryde, at 8, 12-1/2, 2-3/4, and 5-1/4.
+From Ryde at 9-1/4, 11, 3-1/2, and 6-1/2.
+
+From Newport to West Cowes at 8, 9-1/2, 2-1/2, and 5-1/2.
+Cowes to Newport at 10, 12, 3-1/2, and 6-1/2.
+
+West Cowes to Ventnor (thro' Newport, Blackgang, and Niton,) at 10,
+returning at 3.
+Ventnor to East Cowes (through Godshill and Newport,) at 8-1/2,
+returning at 3.
+
+From Ryde to Ventnor at 9-1/2, 11, and 3.
+Ventnor to Ryde at 8-1/2, 1-3/4, and 3. Passing through Brading,
+Sandown, and Shanklin.
+
+     Most of the coaches omit travelling on Sundays.
+
+It will be seen that by these conveyances, visitors arriving at Cowes or
+Ryde in the morning may make the tour of one-half the island the same
+day. If from Ryde in the morning, they would be returned to Cowes in
+time for the last packet across, and the same from the latter to the
+former place.
+
+     But here we must caution our friends, as we did respecting the
+     steam-packets, that frequent alterations take place in the hours of
+     starting, perhaps in consequence of some change made by the
+     vessels, but as often induced by the caprice of the rival
+     speculators; some of them continuing throughout the year, and
+     others running only during the summer.
+
+The CARRIERS.--These of late have so increased, that there is scarcely a
+village without one or more to Newport or Ryde,--between the latter
+places there are three every day; between Cowes, Newport, and Ventnor,
+several carts and vans daily; and from the less populous parishes, one
+every other day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+List of the Principal Inns.
+
+NEWPORT,--the Bugle--Mew.
+          Star--Bryant.
+          Wheat-sheaf, Corn-market--J. Read.
+          Green Dragon, Pyle-street--R. Read.
+          Swan, High-street--Wardle.
+
+RYDE,--Pier Hotel--Rendall.
+       Hotel, Union-street--Yelf.
+       Kent, ditto--Pegg.
+       Crown, near the theatre--Woodrow.
+       Hotel, near the pier--Beazley.
+       Star, upper part of the town--Locke.
+       Hotel & Boarding-house--Weeks.
+
+SPRING-VALE Tavern--Heath.
+
+WEST COWES,--Fountain, on the quay--Webb.
+           Vine, adjoining; ditto--Roper.
+           Marine Hotel, Parade--Helmore.
+           Globe, ditto--Aris.
+
+EAST COWES,--Medina Hotel--Drew.
+             Prince of Wales, nr. toll-gate--Tucker
+
+YARMOUTH,--George--Bright.
+           Bugle--Butler.
+
+FRESHWATER,--Hotel. Fr. gate--Plumbly.
+             Albion Hotel, ditto--Groves.
+             Needles Hotel, Alum Bay--Groves.
+
+BLACKGANG CHINE Hotel--Brooks.
+
+NITON,--Royal Sandrock Hotel--Kent.
+        Boarding-house, on the shore--Bailey.
+        White Lion, Niton village--Bright.
+        Buddle Inn--
+
+VENTNOR,--Hotel--Riles.
+          Marine Hotel--Bush.
+          Crab and Lobster--Cass.
+          Commercial Inn--Cummins.
+
+BONCHURCH,--Hotel--Ribbands.
+
+SHANKLIN,--Williams's Hotel--Hale.
+           Hotel--Daish.
+
+SANDOWN,--King's-head--Thomas.
+
+BEMBRIDGE, Hotel, on the beach--Fletcher.
+
+BRADING,--Wheat-sheaf--Lale.
+
+CALBOURNE, Sun--Woodford.
+
+GODSHILL,--Griffin--Smith.
+
+BRIXTON,--New Inn--Sanders.
+
+
+LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL
+
+SEATS & COUNTRY-VILLAS
+
+WITH THE NAMES OF
+
+Their Proprietors or Occupiers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+>>_In those instances where no Occupiers' Names appear, such Residences
+are generally to be sold or let._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+OSBORNE, Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen
+
+APPULDURCOMBE,                     Earl Yarborough.
+Afton Manor-house,                 B. Cotton, esq.
+Appley, near Ryde,                 J. Hyde, esq.
+Beauchamp, Undercliff,             Sir W. Gordon, bt.
+Bellecroft, near Newport,          J. Cooke, esq.
+Bembridge Parsonage,               Rev. F.G. Middleton.
+Billingham, near Kingston          W. Stancombe, esq.
+Binstead Cottage,                  Lord Downes.
+--------Parsonage,                 Rev. Philip Hewitt.
+Blackwater Cottage, S. of Newport, J. Rutherford, esq.
+Brixton Parsonage,                 Rev. E. McAll.
+Brook Manor-house,                 James How, esq.
+Brookfield Cottage, Binstead,      Rev. Aug. Hewitt.
+Calbourne Parsonage,               Rev. R. Sumner.
+Calbourne Lodge,                   J. Fowler, esq.
+Castlehurst, nr. Carisbrooke,      H. Pinnock, esq.
+Chale Parsonage,                   Rev. A. Gother.
+Costorphine-hill, Ryde,            J.P. Lind, esq.
+EAST COWES CASTLE,                 ----
+East Dene, Bonchurch,              Capt. Swinburne.
+Egypt House, nr. W. Cowes,         Sir T. Tancred, bt.
+Elm Cottage, near E. Cowes,        ----
+FAIRLEE, N.E. of Newport,          Rd. Oglander, esq.
+Fairlee Cottage, ditto,            ----
+Fairy-hill, Nettlestone,           W.A. Glynn, esq.
+Farringford-hill, Freshwater,      Rev. G. Seymour.
+FERNHILL, Wootton,                 Samuel Sanders, esq.
+GATCOMBE PARK,                     Captain Berners.
+Gatcombe Rectory,                  Rev. W. Thompson, D.D.
+Hampstead, near Shalfleet,         Mrs. Nash.
+Haylands, south of Ryde,           Captain Locke.
+Hill-grove, Bembridge,             Hon. A.H. Moreton.
+Holmwood, Ryde,                    T.B. Maynard, esq.
+Kite-hill, Wootton,                Sir H. Brook, bt.
+Lowcliff Lodge, Blackgang,         ----
+Mill-hill, West Cowes,             ----
+Medina Hermitage, nr. Niton,       W.H. Dawes, esq.
+Mirables, Undercliff, ditto,       Mrs. Arnold.
+Mount Cleeves House, ditto,        the Misses Simes.
+Moor House, near W. Cowes,         ----
+Mottistone House,                  R. Jessett, esq.
+New Close, s.w. of Newport,        T. Cooke, esq.
+Ningwood House,                    Rev. ---- Cottell.
+Niton Parsonage,                   Rev. R. Dixon.
+NORRIS, near E. Cowes,             R. Bell, esq.
+NORTHCOURT, Shorwell,              H.P. Gordon, esq.
+Shide Cottage, S. of Newport,      Col. Napier.
+NORTHWOOD PARK,                    G.H. Ward, esq.
+Norton Lodge, Freshwater,          Sir G. Hamond, bt.
+NUNWELL, near Brading,             Sir W. Oglander, bt.
+Oakhill, near Ryde,                T.M. Leacock, esq.
+Old Park, Undercliff,              J. Walkinshaw, esq.
+Orchard, ditto, near Niton,        Sir W. Gordon, bt.
+Padmore, Whippingham,              Rev. James Jolliffe.
+Pidford, near Rookley,             ----------
+Pitt-place, Mottistone,            ----------
+PRIORY, N. of St. Helen's,         H. Smith, esq.
+Puckaster Cottage, Undercliff,     Mrs. Vine.
+Puckpool, east of Ryde,            Lewis Wyatt, esq.
+Ryde House,                        Miss Player.
+Rookley Cottage,                   John Woodward, esq.
+Rosiere, Niton,                    ---------
+Sealand Cottage, Blackgang,        R. Pinnock, esq.
+St. Clare, east of Ryde,           Col. Vernon Harcourt.
+ST. JOHN'S, ditto,                 A.F. Hamilton, esq.
+St. Lawrence Villa,                Earl Yarborough.
+------- --- Cottage,               Hon. Capt. D. Pelham.
+St. Thomas' Villa, E. Cowes,       Miss Barrington.
+Sea-grove, Nettlestone,            W. Gardiner esq.
+Sea-field, ditto,                  Henry Beach, esq.
+Spring-field, ditto,               John Callender, esq.
+Steane Villa, Bembridge,           ---------
+Shanklin Parsonage,                Archdeacon Hill.
+Shorwell Parsonage,                Rev. E. Robertson.
+Slatwoods, near East Cowes,        Miss Shedden.
+Southlands House, Blackgang,       ------
+Spring-hill, ditto,                George Shedden, esq.
+Standen, south of Newport,         General Evelegh.
+STEEPHILL CASTLE,                  J. Hambrough, esq.
+Stickworth, south of Arreton,      Mrs. Bell.
+Stonepits' Cottage, Binstead,      Capt. Brigstocke.
+SWAINSTON, nr. Calbourne,          Sir Rd. Simeon, bt.
+The Battery, Sandown,              T. Woodham, esq.
+The Farm, nr. Newport,             B. Mew, esq.
+The Marina, Norton,                Capt. Crozier.
+Tower Cottage, Shanklin,           -- Cameron, esq.
+Uplands, east of Ryde,             C. Payne, esq.
+Upton House, south of Ryde,        Admiral Hoare.
+Wacklands, s. of Newchurch,        William Thatcher, esq.
+WESTOVER, Calbourne,               Hon. A'Court Holmes.
+Westhill, Cowes,                   the Misses Ward.
+---- Norton,                       R.B. Crozier, esq.
+Westcliff, Niton,                  Captain Ker.
+Westridge, east of Ryde,           Mrs. Young.
+Westbrook, ditto,                  J. Le Marchant, esq.
+Whitcomb, near Gatcombe,           Mrs. Hughes.
+Woodlands, east of Ryde,           J. Percival, esq.
+Woodvale, near Gurnard,            Captain Ffarington.
+Wootton Parsonage.                 Rev. R.W. White.
+Yafford, near Shorwell,            James Jolliffe, esq.
+Yaverland Parsonage,               Rev. R. Sherson.
+
+[Illustration: Map of the Isle of Wight]
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF
+WIGHT***
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