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diff --git a/16232-0.txt b/16232-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a700096 --- /dev/null +++ b/16232-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,21226 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition, by Sutton and Sons + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition + +Author: Sutton and Sons + +Release Date: July 7, 2005 [EBook #16232] +[Most recently updated: August 10, 2020] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS *** + + + + +Produced by Paul Murray, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + +[Illustration] + + + + +THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS + + +BY + +SUTTON AND SONS READING + +SIXTEENTH EDITION + +LONDON + +SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO; LTD. + +1921 + +All rights reserved + +PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE AND CO. LTD. LONDON, COLCHESTER AND +ETON + + +Contents + +THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES +A YEAR’S WORK IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN +JANUARY +FEBRUARY +MARCH +APRIL +MAY +JUNE +JULY +AUGUST +SEPTEMBER +OCTOBER +NOVEMBER +DECEMBER +THE ROTATION OF CROPS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN +THE CHEMISTRY OF GARDEN CROPS +ARTIFICIAL MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION TO GARDEN CROPS +THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS FROM SEEDS +THE CULTURE OF FLOWERING BULBS +FLOWERS ALL THE YEAR ROUND FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS +THE PESTS OF GARDEN PLANTS +THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN GARDEN PLANTS +THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN FLOWERS +INDEX + + + + +THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES + + +Horticulture has a full share in the progressive character of the age. +Changes have been effected in the Kitchen Garden which are quite as +remarkable as the altered methods of locomotion, lighting and +sanitation. Vegetables are grown in greater variety, of higher quality, +and are sent to table both earlier and later in the season than was +considered possible by gardeners of former generations. + +When Parkinson directed his readers to prepare Melons for eating by +mixing with the pulp ‘salt and pepper and good store of wine,’ he must +have been familiar with fruit differing widely from the superb +varieties which are now in favour. A kindred plant, the Cucumber, is +more prolific than ever, and the fruits win admiration for their +symmetrical form. + +The Tomato has ceased to be a summer luxury for the few, and is now +prized as a delicacy throughout the year by all classes of the +community. + +As a result of the hybridiser’s skill modern Potatoes produce heavier +crops, less liable to succumb to the attacks of disease, than the old +varieties, and the finest table quality has been maintained. + +Peas are not what they were because they are so immensely better. While +the powers of the plant have been concentrated, with the result that it +occupies less room and occasions less trouble, its productiveness has +been augmented and the quality improved. All the pulse tribe have +shared in the advance, and a comparison of any dozen or score of the +favourite sorts of Peas or Beans grown to-day with the same number of +favourites of half or even a quarter of a century since will at once +prove that progress in horticulture is no dream of the enthusiast. + +Among the Brassicas, such as Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage and +Cauliflower, a series of remarkable examples might be mentioned; and +roots such as Beet, Carrot, Onion, Radish and Turnip afford other +striking instances of improvement. Salads also, including Celery, +Chicory, Endive and Lettuce, have participated in the beneficial change +and offer a large choice of dainties, adapted to various periods of the +year. Indeed it may be truly said that none of the occupants of the +vegetable garden have refused to be improved by scientific crossing and +selection. + +The vegetables which are available for daily use offer a wide and most +interesting field to the expert in selecting and hybridising. For past +achievements we are indebted to the untiring labours of specialists, +and to their continued efforts we look for further results. Whether the +future may have in store greater changes than have already been +witnessed none can tell. One thing only is certain, that finality is +unattainable, and the knowledge of this fact adds to the charm of a +fascinating pursuit. Happily, innovations are no longer received with +the suspicion or hostility they formerly encountered. In gardens +conducted with a spirit of enterprise novelties are welcome and have an +impartial trial. The prudent gardener will regard these sowings as +purely experimental, made for the express purpose of ascertaining +whether better crops can be secured in future years. For his principal +supplies he will rely on those varieties which experience has proved to +be suitable for the soil and adapted to the requirements of the +household he has to serve. By growing the best of everything, and +growing everything well, not only is the finest produce insured in +abundance, but every year the garden presents new features of interest. + +In considering the general order of work in the Kitchen Garden, the +first principle is that its productive powers shall be taxed to the +utmost. There need be no fallowing—no resting of the ground; and if it +should so happen that by hard cropping perplexity arises about the +disposal of produce, the proverbial three courses are open—to sell, to +give, or to dig the stuff in as manure. The last-named course will pay +well, especially in the disposal of the remains of Cabbage, Kale, +Turnips, and other vegetables that have stood through the winter and +occupy ground required for spring seeds. Bury them in trenches, and sow +Peas, Beans, &c., over them, and in due time full value will be +obtained for the buried crops and the labour bestowed upon them. But +hard cropping implies abundant manuring and incessant stirring of the +soil. To take much off and put little on is like burning the candle at +both ends, or expecting the whip to be an efficient substitute for corn +when the horse has extra work to do. Dig deep always: if the soil be +shallow it is advisable to turn the top spit in the usual manner, and +break up the subsoil thoroughly for another twelve or fifteen inches. +Where the soil is deep and the staple good, trench a piece every year +two spits deep, the autumn being the best time for this work, because +of the immense benefit which results from the exposure of newly turned +soil to rain, snow, frost, and the rest of Nature’s great army of +fertilising agencies. + +In practical work there is nothing like method. Crop the ground +systematically, as if an account of the procedure had to be laid before +a committee of severe critics. Constantly forecast future work and the +disposition of the ground for various crops, keeping in mind the +proportions they should bear to each other. Be particular to have a +sufficiency of the flavouring and garnishing herbs always ready and +near at hand. These are sometimes wanted suddenly, and in a +well-ordered garden it should not be difficult to gather a tuft of +Parsley in the dark. Change crops from place to place, so as to avoid +growing the same things on the same plots in two successive seasons. +This rule, though of great importance, cannot be strictly followed, and +may be disregarded to a certain extent where the land is constantly and +heavily manured. It is, however, of more consequence in connection with +the Potato than with aught else, and this valuable root should, if +possible, be grown on a different plot every year, so that it shall be +three or four years in travelling round the garden. Lastly, sow +everything in drills at the proper distances apart. Broadcasting is a +slovenly mode of sowing, and necessitates slovenly cultivation +afterwards. When crops are in drills they can be efficiently thinned, +weeded and hoed—in other words, they can be cultivated. But +broadcasting pretty well excludes the cultivator from the land, and can +only be commended to the idle man, who will be content with half a crop +of poor quality, while the land may be capable of producing a crop at +once the heaviest and the best. + +GLOBE ARTICHOKE + +Cynara Scolymus + +The Globe Artichoke is grown mainly for the sake of its flower-heads +which make a delightful dish when cooked while immature. The plant is +easily raised from seed, although not quite hardy in some districts. It +will grow on almost any soil, but for the production of large fleshy +heads, deep rich ground is requisite. The preparation of the soil +should be liberal, and apart from the use of animal manure the plant +may be greatly aided by wood-ashes and seaweed, for it is partial to +saline manures, its home being the sandy seashores of Northern Africa. + +The simplest routine of cultivation consists in sowing annually, and +allowing each plantation to stand to the close of the second season. +Seed may be sown in February in boxes of light soil, or in the open +ground in March or April. In the former case, put in the seeds one inch +deep and four inches apart, and start them in gentle heat. Grow on the +seedlings steadily, and thoroughly harden off preparatory to planting +out at the end of April, giving each a space of three to four feet +apart each way. Under favourable conditions the plants from the +February sowing will produce heads in the following August, September, +and October. In the second year, the heads will be formed during June +and July. This arrangement not only insures a supply of heads from June +to October, but admits of a more effective rotation of crops in the +garden. + +Sowings in the open ground should be made in March or April, in drills +one foot apart. Thin out the plants to six inches apart in the rows and +allow them to stand until the following spring, when they may be +transplanted to permanent beds. + +Globe Artichokes may also be grown from suckers planted out in April +when about nine inches high. Put them in rather deep, tread in firmly, +and lay on any rough mulch that may be handy. Should the weather be dry +they will require watering, and during a hot dry spell water and liquid +manure should be given freely to insure a good supply of large heads. +Seedlings that are started well in a suitable bed take better care of +themselves than do plants from suckers, especially in a dry season. +Vigorous seedlings send down their roots to a great depth. + +To advise on weeding and hoeing for the promotion of a clean and strong +growth should be needless, because all crops require such attention. +But as to the production of large heads, a few words of advice may be +useful. It is the practice with some growers to twist a piece of wire +round the stem about three inches below the head. This certainly does +tend to increase the size, but the same end may be accomplished by +other means. In the first place, a rich deep bed and abundant supplies +of water will encourage the growth of fine heads. Further aid in the +same direction will be derived from the removal of all the lateral +heads that appear when they are about as large as an egg. Up to this +stage they do not tax the energies of the plants in any great degree; +but as the flowers are forming within them their demands increase +rapidly. Their removal, therefore, has an immediate effect on the main +heads, and these attain to large dimensions without the aid of wire. +The small heads will be valued at many tables for eating raw, as they +are eaten in Italy, or cooked as ‘artichauts frits.’ The larger main +heads are the best for serving boiled in the usual way. After the heads +are used the plants should be cut down. + +Chards are the blanched summer growth of Globe Artichokes, and are by +many preferred to blanched Cardoons. In the early part of July the +plants selected for Chards must be cut over about six inches above the +ground. In a few days after this operation they will need a copious +watering, which should be repeated weekly, except when heavy rains +occur. By the end of September the plants will have made much growth +and be ready for blanching. Draw them together, put a band of hay or +straw around them, and earth them up, finishing the work neatly. The +blanching will take fully six weeks, during which time there will be +but little growth made—hence the necessity for promoting free growth +before earthing up. Any Chards not used before winter sets in may be +lifted and preserved by packing in sand in a dry shed. + +The Artichoke is hardy on dry soils when the winter is of only average +severity. But on retentive soils, which are most favourable to the +production of fine heads, a severe winter will destroy the plantations +unless they have some kind of protection. The usual course of procedure +is to cut down the stems and large leaves without touching the smaller +central leaves, and, when severe frost appears probable, partially +earth up the rows with soil taken from between; this protection is +strengthened by the addition of light dry litter loosely thrown over. +With the return of spring the litter is removed, the earth is dug back, +and all the suckers but about three removed: then a liberal dressing of +manure is dug in, care being taken to do as little injury to the plants +above and below ground as possible. At the end of five years a +plantation will be quite worn out; in somewhat poor soil it will be +exhausted in three years. But on any kind of soil the cultivation of +this elegant vegetable is greatly simplified by sowing annually, and +allowing the plants to stand for two years only, as already advised. + +JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE + +Helianthus tuberosus + +The Jerusalem Artichoke is a member of the Sunflower tribe, quite +hardy, and productive of wholesome roots that are in favour with many +as a delicacy, and by others are regarded as worthless. It is said that +wise men learn to eat every good thing the earth produces, and this +root is a good thing when properly served; but when cooked in the same +way as a Potato it certainly is a very poor vegetable indeed. It is a +matter of some interest, however, that in respect of nutritive value it +is about equal to the Potato; therefore, in growing it for domestic use +nothing is lost in the way of food, though it needs to be cooked in a +different way. + +The Jerusalem Artichoke will grow anywhere; indeed, it will often yield +a profitable return on land which is unsuitable for any other crop, but +to insure a fine sample it requires a deep friable loam and an open +situation. We have grown immense crops on a strong deep clay, but it is +not a clay plant, because it soon suffers from any excess of moisture. +To prepare the ground well for this crop is a matter of importance, for +it roots freely and makes an immense top-growth, reaching, when very +vigorous, a height of ten or twelve feet. Trench and manure in autumn, +and leave the land rough for the winter. Plant in February or March, +using whole or cut sets with about three eyes to each, and put them in +trenches six inches deep and three feet apart, the sets being one foot +apart in the trenches. When the plants appear, hoe the ground between, +draw a little fine earth to the stems, and leave the rest to Nature. +Take up a portion of the crop in November and store in sand and dig the +remainder when wanted, as recommended in the case of Parsnips. The +tubers must be dug with a fork by opening trenches and cleaning out +every scrap of the roots, for whatever remains will grow and become +troublesome in the following season. + +ASPARAGUS + +Asparagus officinalis + +Asparagus is a liliaceous plant of perennial duration, and it demands +more generous treatment than the majority of Kitchen Garden crops. +Under favourable conditions it improves with age to such an extent as +to justify the best possible cultivation. Plantations that have stood +and prospered for twenty or even thirty years are not uncommon, but a +fair average term is ten years, after which it is generally advisable +to break up a bed, the precaution being first taken to secure a +succession bed on fresh soil well prepared for the purpose. Plantations +are made either by sowing seeds or from transplanted roots; and +although roots are extremely sensitive when moved, success can, as a +rule, be insured by special care and prompt action, assuming that the +proper time of year is chosen for the operation. The advantage of using +roots is the saving of time, and in most gardens this is an important +consideration. Fortunately roots may be planted almost as safely when +two or three years old as at one year. + +Soil.—Asparagus will grow in any soil that is well cultivated; a deep +rich sandy loam being especially suitable. Calcareous soil is by no +means unfavourable to Asparagus; still, a sand rich in humus is not the +less to be desired, as the finest samples of European growth are the +produce of the districts around Paris and Brussels. The London +Asparagus, which is prized by many for its full flavour and tenderness, +is for the most part grown near at hand, in deep alluvial soils +enriched with abundance of manure. Nature gives us the key to every +secret that concerns our happiness, and on the cultivation of Asparagus +she is liberal in her teaching. The plant is found growing wild on the +sandy coasts of the British Islands—a proof that it loves sand and +salt. + +Preparation of Ground.—The routine cultivation must begin with a +thorough preparation of the ground. Efficient drainage is imperative, +for stagnant water in the subsoil is fatal to the plant. But a rich +loam does not need the extravagant manuring that has been recommended +and practised. Deep digging and, where the subsoil is good, trenching +may be recommended, but an average manuring will suffice, because +Asparagus can be effectually aided by annual top-dressings, and proper +surface culture is of great importance in the subsequent stages. It is +necessary to choose an open spot for the plantation. Preparation of the +ground should commence in the autumn and be continued through the +winter, a heavy dressing of half-rotten stable manure being put on in +the first instance, and trenched in two feet deep. In the course of a +month the whole piece should be trenched back. If labour is at command +a third trenching may be done with advantage, and the surface may be +left ridged up until the time arrives to level it for seeding. It will +be obvious that this routine is of a somewhat costly character, but we +are supposing the plantation is to remain for many years, making an +abundant return for the first investment. Still we are bound to say +that a capital supply for a moderate table may be obtained by preparing +a piece of good ground in an open situation in a quite ordinary manner +with one deep digging in winter, adding at the time some six inches or +so of fat stable manure, and leaving it thus until the time arrives for +sowing the seed. Then it will be well to level down and point in, half +a spade deep, a thin coat of decayed manure to make a nice kindly +seed-bed. + +Where soil known to be unsuitable, such as a damp clay or pasty loam, +has to be prepared for Asparagus, it will be found an economical +practice to remove the top spit, which we will suppose to be turf or +old cultivated soil, and on the space so cleared make up a bed of the +best possible materials at command. Towards this mixture there is the +top spit just referred to. Add any available lime rubbish from +destroyed buildings, sand, peat, leaf-mould, surface soil raked from +the rear of the shrubberies, &c., and the result should be a good +compost obtained at an almost nominal cost. + +Size of Bed, and Sowing Seed.—At this juncture several questions of +considerable importance arise. And first, whether the crop shall be +grown on the flat or in raised beds. Where the soil is sufficiently +deep, and the drainage perfect, the flat system answers well. The +advantages of raised beds are that they deepen the soil, assist the +drainage, promote warmth, and thus aid the growth of an early crop. In +fact, raised beds render it possible to grow Asparagus on soils from +which this vegetable could not otherwise be obtained. The preparation +is the same in either case, and therefore we shall make no further +allusion to flat beds, but leave those to adopt them who find their +soil and requirements suitable. Now comes the question of distance, on +which depends the width of the beds. The first point may be settled by +the measure of the plant, and the second by the measure of the man. +Monster sticks are valued at some tables, and we shall refer to these +later on, but an abundant crop of handsome, though not abnormal, +Asparagus meets the requirements of most households. After many +experiments, we have come to the conclusion that the best mode of +insuring a full return of really good sticks, with the least amount of +labour, is to lay out the land in three-feet beds, with two-feet alleys +between. In some instances, no doubt, five-feet beds, containing three +rows of roots, one down the middle and one on each side at a distance +of eighteen inches, are preferable. For the majority of gardens, +however, the three-feet bed is a distinct advantage, were it only for +the fact that all excuse for putting a foot on the bed is avoided. On +this narrow bed only two rows of plants will be necessary. Put down the +line at nine inches from the edge on both sides, and at intervals of +fifteen inches in the rows dibble holes two inches deep, dropping two +or three seeds in each. This will give a distance between the rows of +eighteen inches. In very strong land, heavily manured, the holes may be +eighteen inches apart instead of fifteen. April is the right month for +sowing. + +Thinning.—When the ‘grass’ from seeds has grown about six inches high, +only the strongest plant must be left at each station, and they should +finally stand at a distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in the row. +Much of the injury reported to follow from close planting has been the +result of carelessness in thinning. The young plant is such a slender, +delicate thing, that, to the thoughtless operator, it seems folly to +thin down to one only. The consequence is that two or three, or perhaps +half a dozen, plants are left at each station to ‘fight it out,’ and +these become so intermixed as to appear to be one, though really many, +and of course amongst them they produce more shoots than can be fed +properly by the limited range of their roots. Severe, or may we say +mathematical, thinning is a _sine quâ non_, and it requires sharp eyes +and careful fingers; but it must be done if the Asparagus beds are to +become, as they should be, the pride of the Kitchen Garden. + +Blanching.—The grave question of white _versus_ green Asparagus we +cannot entertain, except so far as concerns the cultivator only. On the +point of taste, therefore, we say nothing; and it is a mere matter of +management whether the sticks are blanched to the very tip, or allowed +to become green for some few inches. Blanching is effected in various +ways. The heaping up of soft soil, such as leaf-mould, will accomplish +it. On the Continent many contrivances are resorted to, such as +covering the heads with wooden or earthen pipes. In a few districts in +France champagne-bottles with the bottoms cut away are employed. But a +strong growth being secured, the cultivator will find it an easy matter +to regulate the degree of colour according to the requirements of the +table he has to serve. As a rule, a moderately stout growth, with a +fair show of purple colour, is everywhere appreciated, and is the +easiest to produce, because the most natural. + +There is, however, an interesting point in connection with the +production of green Asparagus, and it is that if wintry weather +prevails when the heads are rising (as unfortunately is often the case) +the tender green tops may be melted by frost and become worthless, or +may be rendered so tough as to place the quality below that of blanched +Asparagus; for the blanching is also a protective process, and quickly +grown white Asparagus is often more tender and tasty than that which is +green, but has been grown slowly. As the season advances and the heads +rise rapidly the green Asparagus acquires its proper flavour and +tenderness, and thus practical considerations should more or less +influence final decisions on matters of taste. The business of the +cultivator is to produce the kind of growth that is required, whether +white or green, or of a quality intermediate between the two. This is +easily done, making allowance for conditions. When green Asparagus is +alone in demand, the cultivator may be advised to have in readiness, as +the heads are making their first show, a sufficient supply of some +rough and cheap protecting material, such as grass and coarse weeds, +cut with a sickle from odd corners of the shrubbery and meadow land, or +clean hay and straw perfectly free from mildew; but for obvious reasons +stable litter should not be used. A very light sprinkling of material +over an Asparagus bed that is making a first show of produce will ward +off the morning frosts, and amply compensate for the little trouble in +saving many tender green sticks that the frosts would melt to a jelly +and render worthless. After the second or third week in May the litter +may be removed if needful; but if appearances are of secondary +importance, it may be left to shrink away on the spot. + +Cutting.—Asparagus as supplied by market growers is needlessly long in +the stem. The bundles have an imposing appearance, no doubt, but the +useless length adds nothing to the comfort of those at table, and is a +wasteful tax on the energy of the plant. For home consumption it will +generally suffice if the white portion is about four inches long, and +this determines the depth at which the sticks should be cut. Here it +may be useful to remark that deeply buried roots do not thrive so well +as those which are nearer the surface, nor do they produce such early +crops. The sticks are usually cut by thrusting down a stiff +narrow-pointed knife, or specially made saw, close to each shoot; and +it is necessary to do this with judgment, or adjacent shoots, which are +not sufficiently advanced to reveal their presence by lifting the soil, +may be damaged. To avoid this risk of injury by the knife it is +possible from some beds to obtain the sticks without the aid of any +implement by a twist and pull combined, but the process needs a +dexterous hand and is impracticable in tenacious soils. The sticks of a +handsome sample will be white four or five inches of their length; the +tops close, plump, of a purplish-green colour, and the colour extending +two or at most three inches down the stems. Both size and degree of +colouring are, however, so entirely questions of taste that no definite +rule can be stated. It is more to the purpose to say that, if liberally +grown, the plant may be cut from in the third year; and that cutting +should cease about the middle of June, or early in July, according to +the district. For the good of the plant the sooner cutting ceases the +better, as the next year’s buds have to be formed in the roots by the +aid of the top-growth of the current season. + +Weeding and Staking.—Two other points relating to the general +management are worthy of attention. Some crops get on fairly well when +neglected and crowded with weeds. Not so with Asparagus. The plant +appears to have been designed to enjoy life in solitude, being unfit +for competition; and if weeds make way in an Asparagus bed, the +cultivator will pay a heavy penalty for his neglect of duty. The +limitation of the beds to a width of three feet, therefore, is of +consequence, because it facilitates weeding without putting a foot on +them. The other point arises out of the necessity of affording support +to the frail plant in places where it may happen to be exposed to wind. +When Asparagus in high summer is rudely shaken, the stems snap off at +the base, and the roots lose the service of the top-growth in maturing +buds for the next season. To prevent this injury is easy enough, but +the precautions must be adopted in good time. A free use of light, +feathery stakes, such as are employed for the support of Peas, thrust +in firmly all over the bed, will insure all needful support when gales +are blowing. In the absence of pea-sticks, stout stakes, placed at +suitable distances and connected with lengths of thick tarred twine, +will answer equally well. In sheltered gardens the protection of the +young growth with litter, and of the mature growth with stakes, need +not be resorted to, but in exposed situations these precautions should +not be neglected. + +Manuring Permanent Beds.—The management of Asparagus includes a careful +clean-up of the beds in autumn. The plants should not be cut down until +they change colour; then all the top-growth may be cleared away and the +surface raked clean. Give the beds a liberal dressing of half-decayed +manure, and carefully touch up the sides to make them neat and tidy. It +is usual at the same time to dig and manure the alleys, but this +practice we object to _in toto_, because it tends directly to the +production of lean sticks where fat ones are possible; for the roots +run freely in the alleys, and to dig is to destroy them. In the spring +clear the beds of the autumn dressing by raking any remnant of manure +into the alleys, and the beds and the alleys should then be carefully +pricked over with a fork two or three inches deep only, and with great +care not to wound any roots. + +The application of salt requires judgment. For a time it renders the +bed cold, and when followed by snow the two combine to make a freezing +mixture which arrests the growth of established plants. On a newly made +bed salt is unnecessary, and may prove destructive to the roots. The +proper time for applying salt must be determined by the district and +the character of the season; but in no case should the mineral be used +until active growth has commenced, although it is not needful to wait +until the growth is visible above the surface. In the southern counties +a suitable opportunity may generally be found from the beginning to the +middle of April. Second and third dressings may follow at intervals of +three weeks, which not only stimulate the roots but keep down weeds. + +Planting Roots.—In many gardens where there is space for two or three +beds only there will be the very natural desire to secure Asparagus in +a shorter time than is possible from seed, and we therefore proceed to +indicate the best method of planting roots. Asparagus roots do not take +kindly to removal, especially old and established plants. The mere +drying of the roots by exposure to the atmosphere is distinctly +injurious to them. They will travel safely a long distance when well +packed, but the critical time is between the unpacking and getting them +safely into their final home. Everything should be made ready for the +transfer before the package is opened, and the actual task of planting +should be accomplished in the shortest time possible. + +A three-feet bed should be prepared by taking out the soil in such a +manner as to leave two ridges for the roots. The space between ridges +to be eighteen inches, and the tops of the ridges to be so far below +the level of the bed that when the soil is returned, and the bed made +to its normal level, the crowns will be about five inches beneath the +surface. This may be understood from the following illustration of a +section cut across the bed. + +[Illustration: bedlayout] + +A, A represent the alleys between the beds, and B the top of one bed. +The dotted lines show the ridges on which the roots are to rest at C, +C. When the bed is ready, open the package and place the Asparagus on +the ridges at fifteen or eighteen inches apart, allowing about half the +roots of each plant to fall down on either side of the ridge. As a rule +it will be wise to have two pairs of hands engaged in the task. The +soil should be filled in expeditiously, and a finishing touch be given +to the bed. Very rarely will it be safe to transplant Asparagus until +the end of March or beginning of April, for although established roots +will pass unharmed through a very severe winter, those which have +recently been removed are often killed outright by a lengthened period +of cold wet weather, and especially by thawed snow followed by frost. + +Giant Asparagus.—Some of the most critical judges of Asparagus in the +country are extremely partial to giant sticks. Their preference is not +based on mere superiority in size, but on the special flavour which is +the peculiar merit of these extra-large Asparagus when they are +properly grown. Although there is no difficulty whatever in producing +them, it must be admitted that to insure specimens weighing nearly or +quite half a pound, plenty of space must be allowed for the full +development of each plant and a prodigal use of manure is imperative. +Where drainage is effectual, the soil of any well-tilled garden can be +made suitable. The roots may be grown in clumps or in rows. Clumps are +planted in triangular form, two feet being allowed between the three +plants of each group, with a distance of five feet between the groups. +The more usual method, however, is to plant in rows. In both cases the +cultural details are almost identical, and to obtain the finest results +it is wise to get the preparatory work done at convenient times in +advance of the planting season. Assuming that rows are decided on, +commence operations by digging a broad deep trench, throwing out the +soil to the right and left to form sloping sides until there is a +perpendicular depth of twenty-seven inches from the top of the ridge. +About one foot of prepared soil should be placed in the bottom of the +trench. This may be composed of such material as the trimmings of +hedges, sweepings of shrubberies, twigs from a faggot pile, wood ashes +and leaf-mould. The constituents must to some extent depend on the +materials at command. What is wanted is a light compost, consisting +almost wholly of vegetable matter in a more or less advanced state of +decomposition. Add three or four inches of rich loam, and on this, at +the beginning of April, plant strong one-year roots of a robust-growing +variety. Between the plants it is customary to allow a space of at +least two feet, and some growers put them a full yard apart. Cover the +crowns with three inches of rich soil, previously mixed with manure and +laid up for the purpose. The second and following rows are to be +treated in the same way, and the work must be so managed that an equal +distance of four and a half or five feet is left between the rows. When +the foliage dies down in autumn, a layer of fertile loam mixed with +rotten manure should be spread over the surface. In the succeeding +spring remove just the top crust of soil and give a thick dressing of +decayed manure alone, upon which the soil can be restored. During the +autumn of the second year the furrow must be filled with horse manure +for the winter. Remove this manure in March, and substitute good loam +containing a liberal admixture of decayed manure previously +incorporated with the soil. The slight ridges that remain can then be +levelled down. By this treatment large handsome sticks of Asparagus may +be cut in the third year. To maintain the plants in a high state of +efficiency, it must be clearly understood that forcing with horse +manure will be necessary every subsequent year. Blanching may be +carried out by any of the usual methods, and Sea Kale pots are both +convenient and effectual. Not a weed should be visible on the beds at +any time. + +Forcing is variously practised, and the best possible system, +doubtless, is to force in the beds, and thereby train the plants to +their work so that they become used to it. The growers who supply Paris +with forced Asparagus produce the white sample in the beds, and the +green by removal of the roots to frames. Forcing in beds may be +accomplished by means of trenches filled with fermenting material or by +hot-water pipes, the beds in either case being covered with frames. +Where the demand for forced Asparagus is constant, there can be no +doubt the hot-water system is the cheapest as well as the cleanest and +most reliable; for a casual supply forcing in frames answers very well, +but it is attended with the disadvantage that when the crop has been +secured the roots are worthless. The practice of forcing may be said to +commence with the formation of the seed-bed, for if it is to be carried +on in a systematic and profitable manner, every detail must be provided +for in the original arrangements. The width of the beds and of the +alleys, and the disposition of the plants, will have to be carefully +considered, so as to insure the best results of a costly procedure, and +it will be waste of time to begin forcing until the plants have +attained their fourth year. The rough method of market growers consists +in the employment of hot manure in trenches, and also on the beds, +after the frames are put on. The beds are usually four feet wide, the +alleys two feet wide and twenty inches deep, and the plants not more +than nine inches apart in the row, there being three or four rows of +plants in the bed. The frames are put on when forcing commences, but +the lights are withheld until the shoots begin to appear. Then the +fermenting material is removed from the beds, the lights are put on, +and no air is given, mats being added in cold weather, both to retain +warmth and promote blanching. This method produces a fair market +sample, but a much better growth may be obtained by a good hot-water +system, as will be understood from a momentary consideration of +details. By the employment of fermenting material the temperature runs +up rapidly, sometimes extravagantly, so that it is no uncommon event +for the growth to commence at 70° to 80° Fahr., which may produce a +handsome sample, but it will be flavourless. The hot-water system +allows of perfect control, and the prudent grower will begin at 50°, +rise slowly to 60°, and take care not to exceed 65°; the result will be +a sample full of flavour, with a finer appearance than the best +obtainable by the rougher method. + +Forcing in frames is systematically practised in many gardens, and as +it exhausts the roots there must be a corresponding production of roots +for the purpose. The first requisite is a good lasting hotbed, covered +with about four inches of light soil of any kind, but preferably +leaf-mould. The roots are carefully lifted and planted as closely as +possible on this bed, and covered with fine soil to a depth of six +inches. The sashes are then put on and kept close; but a little air may +be given as the heads rise, to promote colour and flavour. The heat +will generally run to 70°, and that figure should be the maximum +allowed. Experienced growers prefer to force at 60° or 65°, and to take +a little more time for the advantage of a finer sample. + +BROAD BEAN + +Faba vulgaris + +The Broad Bean is a thrifty plant, as hardy as any in the garden, and +very accommodating as to soil. It is quite at home on heavy land, but +in common with nearly all other vegetables it thrives on a deep sandy +loam. Considering the productive nature of the plant and its +comparatively brief occupation of the ground, the common Bean must be +regarded as one of our most profitable garden crops. Both the Longpod +and Windsor classes should be grown. For general work the Longpods are +invaluable; they are early, thoroughly hardy, produce heavy crops, and +in appearance and flavour satisfy the world at large, as may be proved +by appeal to the markets. The Windsor Beans are especially prized for +their superior quality, being tender, full of flavour, and, if well +managed, most tempting in colour when put upon the table. + +For early crops the Longpods claim attention, and sowings may be made +towards the end of October or during November on a dry soil in a warm +situation, sheltered from the north. Choose a dry day for the +operation. On no account should the attempt be made while the soil +conditions are unfavourable, even if the sowing is thereby deferred for +some time. The distance must depend upon the sorts, but two feet will +answer generally as the distance between the double rows; the two lines +forming the double rows may be nine inches apart, and the seed two +inches deep. On strong ground a distance of three feet can be allowed +between the double rows, but it is not well to give overmuch space, +because the plants protect each other somewhat, and earliness of +production is the matter of chief moment. Thoroughly consolidate the +soil to encourage sturdy hard growth which will successfully withstand +the excessive moisture and cold of winter. It is an excellent practice +to prepare a piece of good ground sloping to the south, and on this to +make a plantation in February of plants carefully lifted from the seed +rows, wherever they can be spared as proper thinnings. These should be +put in double rows, three feet apart. If transplanted with care they +will receive but a slight check, and will give a successional supply. + +Main Crops.—Another sowing may be made towards the end of January, but +for the main crop wait until February or March. For succession crops +sowings may be made until mid-April, after which time there is risk of +failure, especially on hot soils. A strong soil is suitable, and +generally speaking a heavy crop of Beans may be taken from a +well-managed clay. But any deep cool soil will answer, and where there +is a regular demand for Beans the cultivator may be advised to grow +both Longpods and Windsors—the first for earliness and bulk, the second +for quality. The double rows of maincrop Beans should be fully three +feet apart, and the plants quite nine inches apart in the rows. The +preparation of the seed-bed must be of a generous nature. Where grass +land or land of questionable quality is broken up and trenched, it will +be tolerably safe to crop it with Beans as a first start; and to +prepare it for the crop a good body of fat stable manure should be laid +in between the first and second spits, as this will carry the crop +through, while insuring to the subsoil that has been brought up a time +of seasoning with the least risk of any consequent loss. + +There is not much more to be said about growing Beans; the ground must +be kept clean, and the hoe will have its work here as elsewhere. The +pinching out of the tops as soon as there is a fair show of blossom is +a good plan, whether fly is visible or not, and it is also advisable to +root out all plants as fast as they finish their work, for if left they +throw up suckers and exhaust the soil. The gathering of the crop is +often so carelessly performed that the supply is suddenly arrested. + +Sowings under Glass.—In an emergency, Beans may be started in pots in +the greenhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in +precisely the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is +convenient in cases where heavy water-logged ground precludes outdoor +sowing in autumn and early spring. In all such cases care must be taken +that the forcing is of the most moderate character, or the crop will be +poor and late, instead of being plentiful and early. When pushed on +under glass for planting out, the young stock must have as much light +and air as possible consistent with safety, and a slow healthy growth +will better answer the purpose than a rapid growth producing long legs +and pale leaves, because the physique of infancy determines in a great +degree that of maturity, not less in plants than in animals. + +DWARF FRENCH BEAN + +Phaseolus vulgaris + +Among summer vegetables Dwarf French Beans are deservedly in high +favour, and are everywhere sown at the earliest moment consistent with +reasonable expectations of their safety. This early sowing is +altogether laudable, for although it occasionally entails the loss of a +plantation, the aggregate result is advantageous, and a very little +protection suffices to carry the early plant through the late spring +frosts. But those who supply our tables with green delicacies do not +all recognise the importance of late sowings of Dwarf Beans. Here, +again, a risk must be incurred, but the cost is trifling, and when the +summer is prolonged to October the late-sown Beans are highly prized. +Even if they produce plentifully through September there is a great +point gained, but that cannot be secured from the earliest sowings; it +is impossible. After July it is useless to sow Beans, but where the +demand is constant, two or three sowings may be made in this month, +choosing the most sheltered nooks that can be found for them. For late +sowings the earliest sorts should have preference. + +Dwarf Beans for main crops require a good though somewhat light soil; +but any fairly productive loam will answer the purpose, and the crop +will yield an ample return for such reasonable digging and dressing as +a careful cultivator will not fail to bestow. At the same time, it is a +matter of some practical importance that the poorest land ever put +under tillage will, in an average season, yield serviceable crops of +these legumes, and on a rich soil of some depth the Dwarf Bean will +endure summer drought better than any other crop in the Kitchen Garden. +Earliness of production is of the highest importance up to a certain +point; but an early crop being provided for, abundance of production +next claims consideration, the heaviest bearers being of course best +adapted for main-crop sowing. As regards the sowing and general +culture, it is too often true that Dwarf Beans are crowded injuriously, +even in gardens that are usually well managed. Nothing is gained by +crowding. On the contrary, loss always ensues when the individual +plant, through deficiency of space, is hindered in its full +development. + +For early crops which are eventually to come to maturity in the open +ground, the first sowings may be made in the month of April, either in +boxes in a gentle heat, or better still in a frame on a sunny border +without artificial heat. In districts where frost frequently prevails +in May, and on heavy soils where early sowings outdoors are +impracticable in a wet spring, the forwarding of plants under glass is +very desirable, but the actual date for sowing must depend on local +conditions. The tender growth that is produced by a forcing process is +not well adapted for planting out in May; but a plant produced slowly, +with plenty of light and air, will be stout and strong, and if put out +with care as soon as mild weather occurs in May, will make good +progress and yield an early crop. The seed for this purpose should be +sown in rather light turfy soil, as the plants may then be lifted +without injury to their fleshy roots. Careful treatment will be +desirable for some time after they are planted, such as protection from +sun and frost, and watering, if necessary, although the less watering +the better, provided the plants can hold their ground. The plot to +which these early sowings are to be transplanted should be light and +rich, and lying towards the sun; open the lines with the spade or hoe +in preference to using the dibber, and as fast as the roots are dropped +into their places with their balls of earth unbroken, carefully restore +the fine soil from the surface. Rough handling will seriously interfere +with the ultimate result, but ordinary care will insure abundant +gatherings of first-class produce at a time when there are but few in +the market. On dry soils a small sowing may be made about the second +week of April on a sheltered south border. Sow in double rows six +inches apart, and allow a distance of two feet between the double rows. +When the seedlings appear give protection if necessary, and in due +course thin the plants to six inches apart in the rows. + +Main crops are sown from the last week in April to the middle of June. +The distance for the rows may be from one and a half to two feet apart, +according to the vigour of the variety, the strongest growers requiring +fully two feet, and the distance between the plants may be eight to +twelve inches; therefore it is well to sow the seed two to three inches +apart, and thin out as soon as the rough leaves appear. The ground +being in fairly good condition, it will only be necessary to chop over +the surface, if at all lumpy, and with the hoe draw drills about two +inches deep, which is far better than dibbling, except on very light +soil, when dibbling about three inches deep is quite allowable. +Generally speaking, if the plot be kept clean, the Beans will take care +of themselves; but in droughty weather a heavy watering now and then +will be visibly beneficial, for although the plant bears drought well, +it is like other good things in requiring something to live upon. In +exposed situations and where storms are prevalent, it is an excellent +practice to support the plants with bushy twigs. + +Late Crops.—To extend the outdoor supply sowings may be made early in +July. When the ground has become dry and hard, it is advisable to soak +the seed in water for five or six hours; the drills should also be +watered, and, if possible, the ground should be covered with rotten +dung, spent hops, or some other mulchy stuff to promote and sustain +vegetation. + +The gathering of the crop should be a matter of discipline. Where it is +done carelessly, there will very soon be none to gather, for the +swelling of a few seeds in neglected pods will cause the plants to +cease bearing. Therefore all the Beans should be gathered when of a +proper size, whether they are wanted or not; this is the only way to +insure a long-continued supply of good quality both as to colour and +tenderness. + +Autumn, Winter and Spring Supplies.—By successional sowings under glass +a continuous supply of Beans may be obtained through autumn, winter, +and spring. The earliest sowings should be made at fortnightly +intervals, from mid-July to mid-September, in cold frames filled with +well-manured soil. Put in the seeds two inches deep and six inches +apart, in rows one foot apart. Water copiously during the hot months +and give protection when the nights become cold. After mid-September +crops of dwarf-growing varieties should be raised in heated pits, or in +pots placed in a warm temperature. In pits the beds should be one foot +deep, the drills one foot apart, and the plants six inches asunder in +the rows. When pots are used the ten-inch size will be found most +convenient. Only three-parts fill the pots with a good compost, and +insure perfect drainage. Place eight or nine beans one and a half +inches deep in each pot, eventually reducing the number of plants to +five. As the plants progress soil may be added to within an inch and a +half of the rims. Air-giving and watering will need careful management, +for the most robust growth possible is required, but there must be no +chill, and any excess of either moisture or dryness will be immediately +injurious. When a few pods are formed feed the plants with alternate +applications of soot water and liquid manure, commencing with highly +diluted doses. Thoroughly syringe the plants twice daily to combat Red +Spider. At night a temperature of from 55° to 60° must be maintained. +In mid-February sowings may be made in frames in which six inches of +fertile soil has been placed over a good layer of litter or leaves. +From these sowings heavy crops may be secured in spring and early +summer before the outdoor supplies are ready. + +Flageolets is the name given to the seeds of certain types of Dwarf and +Climbing Beans when used in a state intermediate between the green pods +(_Haricots verts_) and the fully ripe seeds (_Haricots secs_), and they +are strongly to be recommended for culinary purposes. The use of Bean +seeds as _Flageolets_, although so little known in this country, is +very largely practised abroad, and in the vegetable markets of many +French towns the shelling of the beans from the semi-ripe pods by +women, in readiness for cooking in the manner of green peas, is a very +familiar sight. The seeds of almost all varieties are suitable for use +in this way, irrespective of colour, as this is not developed as would +be the case if the seeds were quite ripe. + +CLIMBING FRENCH BEAN + +The Climbing French Bean has all the merits of the Dwarf French Bean, +and the climbing habit not only extends the period of bearing but +results in a yield such as cannot be obtained from the most prolific +strains in the Dwarf section. Although the modern Climbing Bean is less +vigorous in growth than the ordinary Runner, the former may generally +be had in bearing before the most forward crop of Runners is ready. For +an early supply out of doors seed should be sown under glass in April, +in the manner advised for early crops of the Dwarf class. Gradually +harden off the plants and transfer to permanent quarters on the first +favourable opportunity. In the open ground successive sowings may be +made from the end of April to June. The outdoor culture of Climbing +French Beans is practically the same as for the Dwarf varieties, except +that the former are usually grown in double rows about four to five +feet apart. Allow the plants to stand finally at nine to twelve inches +each way, and support them with bushy sticks such as are used for Peas, +for Climbing Beans will run far more readily on these than on single +sticks. + +The Climbing French Bean is especially useful for producing crops under +glass in spring and autumn, and the plants do well when grown in narrow +borders with the vines trained close to the roof-glass by means of wire +or string to which the growth readily clings. The general treatment may +be much the same as that recommended for the Dwarf varieties, special +care being taken with regard to watering and the giving of air. During +the autumn months atmospheric moisture must be cautiously regulated or +much of the foliage will damp off, while in spring a humid atmosphere +should be maintained and systematic watering practised. Cucumber, +Melon, and Tomato beds from which the crops have been cleared may often +be used to advantage for raising a crop of Climbing Beans, and +generally these beds are in excellent condition for the plants without +the addition of manure. + +HARICOT BEAN + +Although in France the term _Haricot_ is given to all types of Beans, +except those of the English Broad Bean, in this country the word +_Haricot_ is generally applied only to the dried seeds of certain Dwarf +and Climbing Beans, notably those which are white. Almost any variety, +however, may be used as _Haricots_, but the most popular are those +which produce self-coloured seeds, such as white, green, and the +various shades of brown. Seed should be sown early in May and the +plants treated as advised for French Beans. The pods should not be +removed from the plants until the seeds are thoroughly ripe. If +ripening cannot be completed in the open, pull up the plants and hang +them in a shed until the seeds are quite dry. + +RUNNER BEAN + +Phaseolus multiflorus + +Runner beans need generous cultivation and will amply repay for the +most liberal treatment. The main point to be borne in mind is that the +plant possesses the most extensive root-system of any garden vegetable. +Deep digging and liberal manuring are therefore essential where the +production of the finest crops is aimed at. If possible the whole of +the ground to be allotted to Runners should be deeply tilled and well +manured in autumn or winter. But where this is inconvenient, trenching +must be carried out in March or early April. Remove the soil to a depth +of two feet, and the trench may be two feet wide for a double row of +Beans. Thoroughly break up the subsoil, half-fill the trench with +well-rotted manure, and restore the surface soil to within a few inches +of the level. + +Time of Sowing.—It is seldom advisable to sow Runners in the open +before the month of May is fairly in, for they are less hardy than +Dwarf Beans, but as late supplies are everywhere valued it is important +to sow again in June. Of course these late crops are subject to the +caprices of autumnal weather, although they often continue in bearing +until quite late in the season. In districts where spring frosts are +destructive, and on cold soils or in very exposed situations, plants +may be raised in boxes for transferring to the open ground, as advised +for Dwarf Beans, but in the case of Runners allow a space of three +inches between the seeds. + +Distances for Rows, &c.—Frequently the rows of Runner Beans are +injuriously close, and the total crop is thereby diminished. On deep, +well-prepared soils, single rows generally prove most productive, and +they should be not less than five feet apart. But where the soil is +shallow and generous preparation is not possible, and in wind-swept +positions, double rows, set nine inches apart, are more satisfactory. +Between the double rows allow a space of from six to eight feet, on +which Cauliflower, Lettuce, or other small-growing subjects may be +planted out. Two inches is the proper depth for putting in the seed, +and it is a wise policy to sow liberally and eventually to thin the +plants to a distance of from nine to twelve inches apart in the rows. + +Staking.—It will always pay to give support by stakes, but where these +are not available wire netting or strands of stout string make +efficient substitutes. Immediately the plants are a few inches high, +insert the sticks on either side of the rows and tie them firmly to the +horizontal stakes placed in the fork near to the top. The means of +support should be decided upon and erected in advance of planting out +Runners which have been raised in boxes, thus avoiding any risk of +injury to the roots. + +But Runners make a good return when kept low by topping, and without +any support whatever, a system adopted by many market gardeners. For +this method of culture space the plants one foot apart in single rows +set three feet apart. Pinch out the tips when the plants are eighteen +inches high and repeat the operation when a further eighteen inches of +growth has formed. + +General Cultivation.—As slugs and snails are particularly partial to +the young plants, an occasional dusting of old soot, slaked lime, or +any gritty substance should be given to render the leaves unpalatable +to these pests. During drought copious watering of the rows is +essential, especially on shallow soils; spraying the plants in the +evening with soft water is also freely practised and this assists the +setting of flowers in dry weather. A mulch of decayed manure will prove +of great benefit to the plants and will prolong the period of bearing. + +In some gardens Runners are grown in groups running up rods tied +together at the top, and when these groups are arranged at regular +intervals on each side of a path, the result is extremely pleasing. +This mode of culture interferes to a very trifling extent with other +crops, and the ornamental effect may be enhanced by growing varieties +which have white, red, and bicolor flowers. + +Preserving the roots of Runners is sometimes recommended. We can only +say that it is a ridiculous proceeding. The utmost care is required to +keep the roots through the winter, and they are comparatively worthless +in the end. A pint of seed will give a better crop than a number of +roots that have cost great pains for their preservation. + +Runner Beans for Exhibition.—Although fine specimens fit for exhibition +may frequently be gathered from the general garden crop, a little extra +attention to the cultivation of Runner Beans for show work will be well +repaid. When staged the pods must possess not only the merit of mere +size, but they should be perfect in shape and quite young. Rapid as +well as robust growth is therefore essential to success. Select the +strongest-growing plants in the rows, and for a few weeks before the +pods are wanted give alternate applications of liquid manure and clear +water. Pinch out all side growths, and limit the number of pods to two +in each cluster. + +WAXPOD BEAN + +Many visitors to the Continent have learned to appreciate the fine +qualities of the Waxpod Beans, sometimes known as Butter Beans, the +pods of which are usually cooked whole. There are two types, the dwarf +and the runner, for which respectively the culture usual for Dwarf +French Beans and Runner Beans will be quite suitable. + +GARDEN BEET + +Beta vulgaris + +As a food plant the Beet scarcely obtains the attention it deserves. +There is no lack of appreciation of its beauty for purposes of +garnishing, or of its flavour as the component of a salad; but other +uses to which it is amenable for the comfort and sustenance of man are +sometimes neglected. As a simple dish to accompany cold meats the Beet +is most acceptable. Dressed with vinegar and white pepper, it is at +once appetising, nutritive, and digestible. Served as fritters, it is +by some people preferred to Mushrooms, as it then resembles them in +flavour, and is more easily digested. It makes a first-rate pickle, and +as an agent in colouring it has a recognised value, because of the +perfect wholesomeness of the rich crimson hue it imparts to any article +of food requiring it. + +Frame Culture.—Where the demand for Beet exists the whole year through, +early sowings in heat are indispensable. For this method of cultivation +the Globe variety should be employed, and two sowings, the first in +February and another in March, will generally provide a good supply of +roots in advance of the outdoor crops. Sow in drills on a gentle +hot-bed and thin the plants from six to nine inches apart in the rows. +As soon as the plants are large enough, give air at every suitable +opportunity. Fresh young Beets grown in this way find far more favour +at table than those which have been stored for several months. They are +also of great service for exhibition, especially in collections of +early vegetables. + +Preparation of Ground.—The cultivation of Beet is of the most simple +nature, but a certain amount of care is requisite for the production of +a handsome and profitable crop. Beet will make a fair return on any +soil that is properly prepared for it; but to grow this root to +perfection a rich light loam is necessary, free from any trace of +recent or strong manure. A rank soil, or one to which manure has been +added shortly before sowing the seed, will produce ugly roots, some +coarse with overgrowth, others forked and therefore of little value, +and others, perhaps, cankered and worthless. The soil should be well +prepared by deep digging some time before making up the seed-bed, and +it is sound practice to grow Beet on plots that have been heavily +manured in the previous year for Cauliflower, Celery, or any other crop +requiring good cultivation. If the soil from an old Melon or Cucumber +bed can be spared, it may be spread over the land and dug in, and the +piece should be broken up in good time to become mellow before the seed +is sown. Seaweed is a capital manure for Beet, especially if laid at +the bottom of the trench when preparing the ground. A moderate dressing +of salt may be added with advantage, as the Beet is a seaside plant. + +Early Crops.—Where frames are not available for providing early +supplies of Beetroot, forward crops may often be obtained from the open +ground by making sowings of the Globe variety from the end of March to +mid-April, in a sheltered position. Of course, the earlier the sowing +the greater the risk of destruction by frost, and birds may take the +seedlings. A double thickness of fish netting, however, stretched over +stakes about one foot above the soil, will afford protection from the +former and prevent the depredations of the latter. Set the drills about +twelve inches apart and sow the seed one and a half to two inches deep. +Thin the plants early and allow them to stand finally at nine inches in +the rows. + +Main Crop.—The most important crop is that required for salading, for +which a deep-coloured Beet of rich flavour is to be preferred, and the +aim of the cultivator should be to obtain roots of moderate size and of +perfect shape and finish. The ground having been trenched two spades +deep early in the year, may be made up into four-and-a-half-feet beds +some time in March, preparatory to sowing the seed. The main sowing +should never be made until quite the end of April or beginning of May. +For a neat crop, sow in drills one and a half to two inches deep, and +spaced from twelve to fifteen inches apart. When finally thinned the +plants should stand about nine inches apart in the rows. Hand weeding +will have to follow soon after sowing, and perhaps the hoe may be +required to supplement the hand. The thinning should be commenced as +early as possible, but it is waste of time to plant the thinnings, and +it is equally waste of time to water the crop. In fact, if the ground +is well prepared, weeding and thinning comprise the whole remainder of +the cultivation. + +Some of the smaller and more delicate Beets, of a very dark colour, may +be sown in drills a foot or fifteen inches apart and thinned to six +inches distance in the drills. We have, indeed, lifted pretty crops of +the smaller Beets at four inches, but it is not prudent to crowd the +plants, as the result will be thin roots with long necks. + +On stony shallow soils, where it is difficult to grow handsome long +Beets, the Globe and Intermediate varieties may be tried with the +prospect of a satisfactory result. We have in hot seasons found these +most useful on a damp clay where fine specimens of long Beet were +rarely obtainable. From this same unkind clay it is possible to secure +good crops of long Beets, by making deep holes with a dibber a foot +apart and filling these with sandy stuff from the compost yard and +sowing the seed over them. It is a tedious process, but it benefits the +land for the next crop, and the Beets pay for it in the first instance. + +Late Crops.—By sowing the Globe or Turnip-rooted varieties in July, +useful roots may be obtained during the autumn and winter. Space the +drills as advised for early crops. Seed may also with advantage be +thinly sown broadcast; the young plants will thus protect one another, +and the roots may be pulled as they mature. + +Lifting and Storing.—A Beet crop may be left in the ground during the +winter if aided by a covering of litter during severe frost. But it is +safer out of the ground than in it, and the proper time to lift is when +a touch of autumn frost has been experienced. Dry earth or sand, in +sufficient quantity, should be ready for the storing, and a clamp in a +sheltered corner will answer if shed room is scarce. In any case, a dry +and cool spot is required, for damp will beget mildew, and warmth will +cause growth. In cutting off the tops before storing, take care not to +cut too near the crown, or injurious bleeding will follow. On the other +hand, the long fang-like roots may be shortened without harm, for the +slight bleeding that will occur at that end will not affect more than +the half-inch or so next to the cut part. A little experience will +teach anyone that Beets must be handled with care, or the goodness will +run out of them. Many cooks bake Beets because boiling so often spoils +them; but if they are in no way cut or bruised, and are plunged into +boiling water and kept boiling for a sufficient length of time—half an +hour to two hours, according to size—there will be but a trifling +difference between boiling and baking. + +The Silver, or Sea Kale, Beet is grown principally for the stalk and +the midrib of the leaf, considered by some to be equal to Asparagus. In +a rank soil, with plenty of liquid manure, the growth is quick, robust, +and the plant of good quality, without the necessity of earthing up. +Sow in April and May, thinly in drills, and allow the plants eventually +to stand at about fifteen inches apart each way. The leaves should be +pulled, not cut. As the stalks often turn black in cooking, it is +advisable to add a few drops of lemon-juice to the water in which they +are boiled, and, of course, soda should never be used. They should be +served up in the same manner as Asparagus. The remainder of the leaf is +dressed as Spinach. + +BORECOLE, or KALE + +Brassica oleracea acephala + +The Borecoles or Kales are indispensable for the supply of winter +vegetables, and their importance becomes especially manifest when +severe frost has made general havoc in the Kitchen Garden. Then it is +seen that the hardier Borecoles are proof against the lowest +temperature experienced in these islands; and, while frost leaves the +plants unharmed, it improves the tops and side sprouts that are +required for table purposes. + +As regards soil, the Borecoles are the least particular of the whole +race of Brassicas. They appear to be capable of supplying the table +with winter greens even when grown on hard rocky soil, but good loam +suits them admirably, and a strong clay, well tilled, will produce a +grand sample. Granting, then, that a good soil is better than a bad +one, we urge the sowing of seed as early as possible for insuring to +the plant a long season of growth. But early sowing should be followed +by early planting, for it is bad practice to leave the plants crowded +in the seed-bed until the summer is far advanced. This, however, is +often unavoidable, and it is well to consider in time where the plants +are to go, and when, according to averages, the ground will be vacant +to receive them. The first sowing may be made early in March, and +another in the middle of April. These two sowings will suffice for +almost all the purposes that can be imagined. A good seed-bed in an +open spot is absolutely necessary. It is usual to draw direct from the +seed-bed for planting out as opportunities occur, and this method +answers fairly well. But when large enough it is better practice to +prick out as a preparation for the final planting, because a stouter +and handsomer plant is thereby secured. If it is intended to follow the +rough and ready plan, the seed drills should be nine inches apart; but +for pricking out six inches will answer, and thus a very small bed will +provide a lot of plants. When pricked out, the plants should be six +inches apart each way, and they should go to final quarters as soon as +the leaves touch one another. On the flat, a fair distance between +Borecoles is two feet apart each way, but some vigorous kinds in good +ground will pay for another foot of space, and will yield enormous +crops when their time arrives. Transplanting is usually done in June +and July, and in many gardens Kales are planted between the rows of +second-early or maincrop Potatoes. The work should be done during +showery weather if possible, but these Brassicas have an astonishing +degree of vitality. If put out during drought very little water is +required to start them, and as the cool weather returns they will grow +with vigour. But good cultivation saves a plant from extreme +conditions; and it is an excellent practice to dig in green manure when +preparing ground for Kales, because a free summer growth is needful to +the formation of a stout productive plant. + +We have suggested that two sowings may be regarded as generally +sufficient, but we are bound to take notice of the fact that the late +supplies of these vegetables are sometimes disappointing. In a mild +winter the Kales reserved for use in spring will be likely to grow when +they should stand still, and at the first break of pleasant spring +weather they will bolt, very much to the vexation of those who expected +many a basket of sprouts from them. A May sowing planted out in a cold +place may stand without bolting until spring is somewhat advanced. Kale +of the ‘Asparagus’ type, such as Sutton’s Favourite, will often prove +successful when sown as late as July. + +As regards the varieties, they agree pretty nearly in constitution, +although they differ much in appearance and in the power of resisting +the excitement of spring weather. But in this section of vegetables +there are a few very interesting subjects. The Variegated and Crested +Kales are extremely ornamental and eminently useful in large places for +decorative purposes. These do not require so rich a soil as Sutton’s A1 +or Curled Scotch, and they must have the fullest exposure to bring out +their peculiarities. It is found that in somewhat dry calcareous soils +these plants acquire their highest colour and most elegant proportions. +When planted by the sides of carriage drives and in other places where +their colours may be suitably displayed, it is a good plan to cut off +the heads soon after the turn of the year, as this promotes the +production of side shoots of the most beautiful fresh colours. A crop +of Kale may be advantageously followed by Celery. + +BROCCOLI + +Brassica oleracea botrytis asparagoides + +The great importance of this crop is indicated by the long list of +varieties and the still longer list of synonyms. As a vegetable it +needs no praise, and our sole business will be to treat of the +cultivation. + +Of necessity we begin with generalities. Any good soil will grow +Broccoli, but it is a strong-land plant, and a well-tilled clay should +yield first-class crops. But there are so many kinds coming into use at +various seasons, that the cultivation may be regarded as a somewhat +complex subject. We will therefore premise that the best must be made +of the soil at command, whatever it may be. The Cornish growers owe +their success in great part to their climate, which carries their crops +through the winter unhurt; but they grow Broccoli only on rich soil, +and keep it in good heart by means of seaweed and other fertilisers. +All the details of Broccoli culture require a liberal spirit and +careful attention, and the value of a well-grown crop justifies +first-class treatment. On the other hand, a badly-grown crop will not +pay rent for the space it covers, to say nothing of the labour that has +been devoted to it. + +The Seed-bed.—Broccoli should always be sown on good seed-beds and be +planted out; the seed-beds should be narrow, say three or three and a +half feet wide, and the seed must be sown in drills half an inch deep +at the utmost—less if possible; and where sparrows haunt the garden it +will be well to cover the beds with netting, or protect the rows with +wire pea guards. A quick way of protecting all round seeds against +small birds is to put a little red lead in a saucer, then lightly +sprinkle the seed with water and shake it about in the red lead. Not a +bird or mouse will touch seed so treated. + +The seed-beds must be tended with scrupulous care to keep down weeds +and avert other dangers. It is of great importance to secure a robust +plant, short, full of colour, and free from club at the root. Now, +cleanliness is in itself a safeguard. It promotes a short sturdy +growth, because where there are no weeds or other rubbish the young +plant has ample light and air. Early thinning and planting is another +important matter. If the land is not ready for planting, thin the +seed-bed and prick out the seedlings. A good crop of Broccoli is worth +any amount of trouble, although trouble ought to be an unknown word in +the dictionary of a gardener. + +Manuring Ground.—As a rule, Broccoli should be planted in fresh ground, +and, in mild districts, if the soil is in some degree rank with green +manure the crop will be none the worse for it. But rank manure is not +needful; a deep, well-dug, sweet loam will produce a healthy growth and +neat handsome heads. However, it is proper to remark, that if any rank +manure is in the way, or if the ground is poor and wants it, the +Broccoli will take to it kindly, and all the rankness will be gone long +before they produce their creamy heads. Still, it must be clearly +understood that the more generous the treatment, the more succulent +will be the growth, and in cold climates a succulent condition may +endanger the crop when hard weather sets in. + +Method of Planting.—Broccoli follows well upon Peas, early Potatoes, +early French Beans, and Strawberries that are dug in when gathered from +for the last time. But it does not follow well upon Cabbage, Turnip, or +Cauliflower; if Broccoli must follow any of these, dig deeply, manure +heavily, and in planting, dust a little freshly slaked lime in the +holes. The times of planting will depend on the state of the plants and +the proper season of their heading in. But everywhere and always the +plants should be got out of the seed-bed into their permanent quarters +as soon as possible, for the longer they stay in the seed-bed the more +likely are they to become drawn above and clubbed below. As regards +distances, too, the soil, the variety, and the season must be +considered. For all sorts the distances range from two to two and a +half feet; and for most of the medium-sized sorts that have to stand +out through the winter for use in spring, a distance of eighteen to +twenty-four inches is usually enough, because if they are rather close +they protect one another. But with strong sorts in strong soils and +kind climates, two feet and a half every way is none too much even for +safe wintering. Plant firmly, water if needful, and do not stint it; +but, if possible, plant in showery weather, and give no water at all. +Watering may save the crop, but the finest pieces of Broccoli are those +that are secured without any watering whatever. + +Autumn Broccoli.—To grow Autumn Broccoli profitably, sow in February, +March, and April, the early sowings in a frame to insure vigorous +growth, and the later sowings in the open ground. Plant out as soon as +possible in fresh land that has been deeply tilled. If the soil is +poor, draw deep drills, fill them with fat manure, and plant by hand, +taking care to press round each root crumbs from the surface soil. This +will give them a good start, and they will take care of themselves +afterwards. When they show signs of heading in, run in shallow drills +of Prickly Spinach between them, and as this comes up the Broccoli will +be drawn, leaving the Spinach a fair chance of making a good stolen +crop, needing no special preparation whatever. Another sowing of +Broccoli may be made in May, but the early sowings, if a little nursed +in the first instance, will pay best, because early heads are scarce, +whereas late Broccoli are plentiful. + +Winter Broccoli should not be sown before the end of March and thence +to the end of April. As a rule, the April sowing will make the best +crop, although much depends on season, soil, and climate. Begin to +plant out early, and continue planting until a sufficient breadth of +ground is covered. Within reasonable limits it will be found that the +time of planting does not much affect the date when the heads turn in, +and only in a moderate degree influences the size of them. + +Spring Broccoli are capricious, no matter what the world may say. It +will occasionally happen that sorts planted for cutting late in spring +will turn in earlier than they are wanted, and the sun rather than the +seedsman must be blamed for their precocity. In average seasons the +late sorts turn in late; but the Broccoli is a sensitive plant, and +unseasonable warmth results in premature development. Sow the Spring +Broccoli in April and May, the April sowing being the more important. +It will not do, however, to follow a strict rule save to this effect, +that early and late sowings are the least likely to succeed, while +mid-season sowings—say from the middle of April to the middle of +May—will, as a rule, make the best crops. Where there is a constant +demand for Broccoli in the early months of the year, two or three small +sowings will be better than one large sowing. + +Summer Broccoli are useful when Peas are late, and they are always over +in time to make way for the glut of the Pea crop. Late Queen may, in +average seasons, be cut at the end of May and sometimes in June, if +sown about the middle of May in the previous year, and carefully +managed. This excellent variety can, as a rule, be relied on, both to +withstand a severe winter in an exposed situation and to keep up the +supplies of first-class vegetables until the first crop of Cauliflower +is ready, and Peas are coming in freely. Generally speaking, smallish +heads, neat in shape and pure in colour, are preferred. They are the +most profitable as a crop and the most acceptable for the table. An +open, breezy place should be selected for a plantation of late +Broccoli, the land well drained, and it need not be made particularly +rich with manure. But good land is required, with plenty of light and +air to promote a dwarf sturdy growth and late turning in. + +Protection in Winter.—Various plans are adopted for the protection of +Broccoli during winter. Much is to be said in favour of leaving them to +the risk of all events, for certain it is that finer heads are obtained +from undisturbed plants than by any interference with them, provided +they escape the assaults of winter frost. But in such a matter it is +wise to be guided by the light of experience. In cold districts, and on +wet soils where Broccoli do not winter well, heeling over may be +adopted. There are several ways of accomplishing the task, the most +successful method being managed thus. Open a trench at the northern +end, and gently push over each plant in the first row so that the heads +incline to the north. Put a little mould over each stem to settle it, +but do not earth it up any more than is needful to render it secure. +Push over the next row, and the next, and so on, finishing off between +them neatly and leaving the plants nearly as they were before, save +that they now all look northward, and their sloping stems are a little +deeper in the earth than they were in the first instance. This should +be done during fine weather in November, and if the plants flag a +little they should have one good watering at the roots. In the course +of about ten days it will be scarcely perceptible that they have been +operated on. They may be lifted and replanted with their heads to the +north, but this is apt to check them too much. In exceptionally cold +seasons cover the plot with straw or bracken, but this must be removed +in wet weather. When it is seen that the heads are forming and hard +weather is apprehended, some growers take them up with good balls of +earth and plant them in a frame, or even pack them neatly in a cellar, +and the heads finish fairly well, but not so well as undisturbed +plants. It is impossible, however, to cut good heads in a very severe +winter without some such protective measures. In many gardens glass is +employed for protecting Winter Broccoli, in which case the plantations +are so shaped that the frames will be easily adapted to them without +any disturbance of the plants whatever. There must be allowed a good +space between the beds to be covered, and the plants must be fifteen to +eighteen inches apart, with the object of protecting the largest number +by means of a given stock of frames. + +Sprouting Broccoli, both white and purple, are invaluable to supply a +large bulk of a most acceptable vegetable in winter and early spring. +Sow in April and the plants may be treated in the same way as other +hardy winter greens. They should have the most liberal culture +possible, for which they will not fail to make an ample return. The +Purple Sprouting Broccoli is a favourite vegetable in the kitchen, +because of its freedom from the attacks of all kinds of vermin. + +BRUSSELS SPROUTS + +Brassica oleracea bullata gemmifera + +Brussels Sprouts are everywhere regarded as the finest autumnal +vegetable of the strictly green class. They are, however, often very +poorly grown, because the first principle of success—a long growing +season—is not recognised. It is in the power of the cultivator to +secure this by sowing seed at the end of February, or early in March, +on a bed of light rich soil made in a frame, and from the frame the +plants should be pricked out into an open bed of similar light fresh +soil as soon as they have made half a dozen leaves. From this bed they +should be transferred to their permanent quarters before they crowd one +another, the object being at each stage to obtain free growth with a +sturdy habit, for mere length of stem is no advantage; it is a +disadvantage when the plant is deficient of corresponding substance. +The ground should be made quite firm, in order to encourage robust +growth which in turn will produce shapely solid buttons. This crop is +often grown on Potato land, the plants being put out between the rows +in the course of the summer. It is better practice, however, to plant +Kales or Broccoli in Potato ground, because of the comparative slowness +of their growth, and to put the Sprouts on an open plot freely dressed +with somewhat fresh manure. If a first-class strain, such as Sutton’s +Exhibition, is grown, it will not only pay for this little extra care, +but will pay also for plenty of room, say two and a half feet apart +every way at the least; and one lot, made up of the strongest plants +drawn separately, may be in rows three feet apart, and the plants two +and a half feet asunder. For the compact-growing varieties two feet +apart each way will generally suffice. Maintain a good tilth by the +frequent use of the hoe during summer, and as autumn approaches +regularly remove all decaying leaves. Those who have been accustomed to +treat Sprouts and Kales on one uniform rough plan will be surprised at +the result of the routine we now recommend. The plants will button from +the ground line to the top, and the buttons will set so closely that, +once taken off, it will be impossible to replace them. Moderate-sized, +spherical, close, grass-green Sprouts are everywhere esteemed, and +there is nothing in the season more attractive in the markets. + +Crops treated as advised will give early supplies of the very finest +Sprouts. For successional crops it will be sufficient to sow in the +open ground in the latter part of March, or early in April, and plant +out in the usual manner; in other words, to treat in the commonplace +way of the ordinary run of Borecoles. With a good season and in +suitable ground there will be an average crop, which will probably hold +out far into the winter. It is important to gather the crop +systematically. The Sprouts are perfect when round and close, with not +a leaf unfolded. They can be snapped off rapidly, and where the +quantity is considerable they should be sorted into sizes. The season +of use will be greatly prolonged, and the tendency of the Sprouts to +burst be lessened, if the head is cut last of all. + +CABBAGE + +Brassica oleracea capitata + +The Cabbage is a great subject, and competes with the Potato for +pre-eminence in the cottage garden, in the market garden, and on the +farm, sometimes with such success as to prove the better paying crop of +the two. It may be said in a general way that a Cabbage may be grown +almost anywhere and anyhow; that it will thrive on any soil, and that +the seed may be sown any day in the year. All this is nearly possible, +and proves that we have a wonderful plant to deal with; but it is too +good a friend of man to be treated, even in a book, in an off-hand +manner. The Cabbage may be called a lime plant, and a clay plant; but, +like almost every other plant that is worth growing, a deep well-tilled +loam will suit it better than any other soil under the sun. It has one +persistent plague only. Not the Cabbage butterfly; for although that is +occasionally a troublesome scourge, it is not persistent, and may be +almost invisible for years together. Nor is it the aphis, although in a +hot dry season that pest is a fell destroyer of the crop. The great +plague is club or anbury, for which there is no direct remedy or +preventive known. But indirectly the foe may be fought successfully. +The crop should be moved about, and wherever Cabbage has been grown, +whether in a mere seed-bed or planted out, it should be grown no more +until the ground has been well tilled and put to other uses for one +year at least, and better if for two or three years. There are happy +lands whereon club has never been seen, and the way to keep these clear +of the pest is to practise deep digging, liberal manuring, and changing +the crops to different ground as much as possible. A mild outbreak of +club may generally be met by first removing the warts from the young +plants, and then dipping them in a puddle made of soot, lime, and clay. +But when it appears badly amongst the forward plants, their growth is +arrested, the plot becomes offensive, and the only course left is to +draw the bad plants, burn them, and give up Cabbage growing on those +quarters for several years. The question as to why the roots of +brassicaceous plants are subject to this scourge on some soils, while +plants from the same seed-bed remain healthy when transferred to +different land, is deeply interesting, and the subject is discussed +later on in the chapter on ‘The Fungus Pests of certain Garden Plants.’ +Here it is sufficient to say that the presence of the disease is +generally an indication that the soil is deficient in lime. A dressing +at the rate of from 14 to 28 or even 56 pounds per square pole may be +necessary to restore healthy conditions. The outlay will not be wasted, +for lime is not merely a preventive, it has often an almost magical +influence on the fertility of land. + +For general purposes Cabbages may be classified as early and late. The +early kinds are extremely valuable for their earliness, but only a +sufficient quantity should be grown, because, as compared with +mid-season and late sorts, they are less profitable. In the scheme of +cropping it may be reckoned that a paying crop of Cabbage will occupy +the ground through a whole year; for although this may not be an exact +statement, the growing time will be pretty well gone before the ground +is clear. After Cabbage, none of the Brassica tribe should be put on +the land, and, if possible, the crop to follow should be one requiring +less of sulphur and alkalies, for of these the Cabbage is a great +consumer, hence the need for abundant manuring in preparation for it. +The presence of sulphur explains the offensiveness of the exhalations +from Cabbage when in a state of decay. + +Spring-sown Cabbage for Summer and Autumn use.—To insure the best +succession of Cabbage it will be necessary to recognise four distinct +sowings, any of which, save the autumnal sowing, may be omitted. Begin +with a sowing of the earliest kinds in the month of February. For this, +pans or boxes must be used, and the seed should be started in a pit or +frame, or in a cool greenhouse. When forward enough, prick out in a bed +of light rich soil in a cold frame, and give plenty of air. Before the +seedlings become crowded harden them off and plant out, taking care to +lift them tenderly with earth attached to their roots to minimise the +check. These will heart quickly and be valued as summer Cabbages. The +second sowing is to be made in the last week of March, and to consist +of early kinds, including a few of the best type of Coleworts. As these +advance to a planting size, they may be put out a few at a time as +plots become vacant, and they will be useful in various ways from July +to November or later. A third sowing may be made in the first or second +week of May of small sorts and Coleworts; and these again may be +planted out as opportunities occur, both in vacant plots for hearting +late in the year, and as stolen crops in odd places to draw while +young. The second and third sowings need not be pricked out from the +seed-bed, but may be taken direct therefrom to the places where they +are to finish their course. + +In planting out, the spacing must be regulated according to the size of +the variety grown. If put out in beds, the plants may be placed from +one to two feet apart, and the rows one and a half to two feet asunder. +All planting should be done in showery weather if possible, or with a +falling barometer. It may not always be convenient to wait for rain, +and happily it is a peculiarity of Brassicas, and of Cabbage in +particular, that the plants will endure, after removal, heat and +drought for some time with but little harm, and again grow freely after +rain has fallen. But good cultivation has in view the prevention of any +such check. At the best it is a serious loss of time in the brief +growing season. Therefore in droughty weather it will be advisable to +draw shallow furrows and water these a day in advance of the planting, +and if labour and stuff can be found it will be well to lay in the +furrows a sprinkling of short mulchy manure to follow instantly upon +the watering; then plant with the dibber, and the work is done. If the +mulch cannot be afforded, water must be given, and to water the furrows +in advance is better than watering after the planting, as a few +observations will effectually prove. If drought continues, water should +be given again and again. The trouble must be counted as nothing +compared with the certain loss of time while the plant stands still, to +become, perhaps, infested with blue aphis, and utterly ruined. As a +matter of fact, a little water may be made to go a long way, and every +drop judiciously administered will more than repay its cost. The use of +the hoe will greatly help the growth, and a little earth may be drawn +towards the stems, not to the extent of ‘moulding-up,’ for that is +injurious, but to ‘firm’ the plants in some degree against the gales +that are to be expected as the days decline. + +Autumn-sown Cabbage for Spring and Summer use.—The fourth, or autumn, +sowing is by far the most important of the year, and the exact time +when seed should be put in deserves careful consideration. A strong +plant is wanted before winter, but the growth must not be so far +advanced as to stand in peril from severe and prolonged frost. There is +also the risk that plants which are too forward may bolt when spring +arrives. In some districts it is the practice to sow in July, and to +those who find the results entirely satisfactory we have nothing to +say. Our own experiments have convinced us that, for the southern +counties, August is preferable, and it is wise to make two sowings in +that month, the first quite early and the second about a fortnight +later. Here it is necessary to observe that the selection of suitable +varieties is of even greater consequence than the date of sowing. A +considerable number of the Cabbages which possess a recognised value +for spring sowing are comparatively useless when sown in August. +Success depends on the capability of the plant to form a heart when the +winter is past instead of starting a seed-stem, and this reduces the +choice to very narrow limits. Among the few Cabbages which are +specially adapted for August sowing, Sutton’s Harbinger, April, Flower +of Spring, Favourite, and Imperial may be favourably mentioned, and +even in small gardens at least two varieties should be sown. Where +Spring Cabbages manifest an unusual tendency to bolt, sowing late in +August, followed by late planting, will generally prove a remedy, +always assuming that suitable varieties have been sown. + +The planting of autumn-sown Cabbages should be on well-made ground, +following Peas, Beans, or Potatoes, and as much manure should be dug in +as can be spared, for Cabbage will take all it can get in the way of +nourishment. If the entire crop is to be left for hearting, a minimum +of fifteen inches each way will be a safe distance for the smallest +varieties. Supposing every alternate plant is to be drawn young for +consumption as Coleworts, a foot apart will suffice, but in this case +the surplus plants must be cleared off by the time spring growth +commences. This procedure will leave a crop for hearting two feet +apart, and when the heads are cut the stumps will yield a supply of +Sprouts. As these Sprouts appear when vegetables are none too +plentiful, they are welcome in many households, and make a really +delicate dish of greens. + +By sowing quick-growing varieties of Cabbage in drills during July and +August, and thinning the plants early, thus avoiding the check of +transplanting, heads may often be had fit for cutting in October and +November. + +The Red Cabbage is grown for pickling and also for stewing, being in +demand at many tables as an accompaniment to roasted partridges. The +plant requires the best ground that can be provided for it, with double +digging and plenty of manure. Two sowings may be made, the first in +April for a supply in autumn for cooking, and the second in August for +a crop to stand the winter and to supply large heads for pickling. + +SAVOY CABBAGE + +Brassica oleracea bullata + +The Savoy Cabbage is directly related to Brussels Sprouts, though +differing immensely in appearance. It is of great value for the bulk of +food it produces, as well as for its quality as a table vegetable +during the autumn and winter. In all the essential points the Savoy may +be grown in the same way as any other Cabbage, but it is the general +practice to sow the seed in spring only, the time being determined by +requirements. For an early supply, sow in February in a frame, and in +an open bed in March, April, and May for succession. This vegetable +needs a rich deep soil to produce fine heads, but it will pay better on +poor soil than most other kinds of Cabbage, more especially if the +smaller sorts are selected. Savoys are not profitable in the form of +Collards; hence it is advisable to plant in the first instance at the +proper distances, say twelve inches for the small sorts, eighteen for +those of medium growth, and twenty to twenty-four where the ground is +strong and large heads are required. In private gardens the smaller +kinds are much the best, but the market grower must give preference to +those that make large, showy heads. + +CAPSICUM and CHILI + +Capsicum annuum, C. baccatum + +Capsicums and Chilis are so interesting and ornamental that it is +surprising they are grown in comparatively few gardens. Sometimes there +is reason to lament that Cayenne pepper is coloured with drugs, but the +remedy is within reach of those who find the culture of Capsicums easy, +and to compound the pepper is not a difficult task. The large-fruited +varieties may also be prepared in various ways for the table, if +gathered while quite young and before the fruits change colour. + +The cultivation of Capsicums is a fairly simple matter. The best course +of procedure is to sow seed thinly in February or March in pots or pans +of fine soil placed on a gentle hot-bed or in a house where the +temperature is maintained at about 55°. Pot on the young plants as they +develop and keep them growing without a check. Spray twice daily, for +Capsicums require atmospheric moisture and the Red Spider is partial to +the plant. Nice specimens may be grown in pots five to eight inches in +diameter, beyond which it is not desirable to go, and as the summer +advances these may be taken to the conservatory. Plants intended for +fruiting in warm positions out of doors should be hardened off in +readiness for transfer at the end of May. In gardens favourably +situated, as are many in the South of England, it is sufficient to sow +a pinch of seed on an open border in the middle of May, and put a hand +glass over the spot. The plants from this sowing may be transferred to +any sunny position, and will yield an abundant crop of peppers. + +The Bird Pepper or Chili is grown in precisely the same way as advised +for Capsicum. + +To prepare the pods for pepper, put the required number into a wire +basket, and consign them to a mild oven for about twelve hours. They +are not to be cooked, but desiccated, and in most cases an ordinary +oven, with the door kept open to prevent the heat rising too high, will +answer perfectly. Being thus prepared, the next proceeding is to pound +them in a mortar with one-fourth their weight of salt, which also +should be dried in the oven, and used while hot. When finely pounded, +bottle securely, and there will be a perfect sample of Cayenne pepper +without any poisonous colouring. One hundred Chilis will make about two +ounces of pepper, which will be sufficient in most houses for one +year’s supply. The large ornamental Capsicums may be put on strings, +and hung up in a dry store-room, for use as required, to flavour soups, +make Chili vinegar, Cayenne essence, &c. The last-named condiment is +prepared by steeping Capsicums in pure spirits of wine. A few drops of +the essence may be used in any soup, or indeed wherever the flavour of +Cayenne pepper is required. + +CARDOON + +Cynara Cardunculus + +This plant is nearly related to the Globe Artichoke, and it makes a +stately appearance when allowed to flower. Although the Cardoon is not +widely cultivated in this country, it is found in some of our best +gardens, and is undoubtedly a wholesome esculent from which a skilful +cook will present an excellent dish. The stalks of the inner leaves are +stewed, and are also used in soups, as well as for salads, during +autumn and winter. The flowers, after being dried, possess the property +of coagulating milk, for which purpose they are used in France. + +In a retentive soil Cardoons should be grown on the flat, but the plant +is a tolerably thirsty subject, and must have sufficient water. Hence +on very dry soils it may be necessary to put it in trenches after the +manner of Celery, and then it will obtain the full benefit of all the +water that may be administered. In any case the soil must be rich and +well pulverised if a satisfactory growth is to be obtained. + +Towards the end of April rows are marked out three or four feet apart, +and groups of seed sown at intervals of eighteen inches in the rows. +The plants are thinned to one at each station, and in due time secured +to stakes. Full growth is attained in August, when blanching is +commenced by gathering the leaves together, wrapping them round with +bands of hay, and earthing up. It requires from eight to ten weeks to +accomplish the object fully. The French method is quicker. Seed is sown +in pots under glass, and in May the plants are put out three feet +apart. When fully grown the Cardoons are firmly secured to stakes by +three small straw bands. A covering of straw, three inches thick, is +thatched round every plant from bottom to top, and each top is tied and +turned over like a nightcap. A little soil is then drawn to the foot, +but earthing up is needless. In about a month blanching is completed. + +CARROT + +Daucus Carota + +The Carrot is a somewhat fastidious root, for although it is grown in +every garden, it is not everywhere produced in the best style possible. +The handsome long roots that are seen in the leading markets are the +growth of deep sandy soils well tilled. On heavy lumpy land long clean +roots cannot be secured by any kind of tillage. But for these +unsuitable soils there are Sutton’s Early Gem, the Champion Horn, and +Intermediate, which require no great depth of earth; while for deep +loams the New Red Intermediate answers admirably. + +Forcing.—Carrots are forced in frames on very gentle hot-beds. They +cannot be well grown in houses, and they must be grown slowly to be +palatable. It is usual to begin in November, and to sow down a bed +every three or four weeks until February. A lasting hot-bed is of the +first importance, and it is therefore necessary to have a good supply +of stable manure and leaves. The material should be thoroughly mixed +and allowed to ferment for a few days. Then turn the heap again, and a +few days later the bed may be made up. In order to conserve the heat +the material will need to be three to four feet deep, and if a box +frame is used the bed should be at least two feet wider than the frame. +Build up the material in even, well-consolidated layers, to prevent +unequal and undue sinking, and make the corners of the bed perfectly +sound. Put on the bed about one foot depth of fine, rich soil; if there +is any difficulty about this, eight inches must suffice, but twelve is +to be preferred. As the season advances less fermenting material will +be needed, and a simple but effective hot-bed may be made by digging +out a hole of the required size and filling it with the manure. The +latter will in due time sink, when the soil may be added and the frame +placed in position. The bed should always be near the glass, and a +great point is gained if the crop can be carried through without once +giving water, for watering tends to damage the shape of the roots. No +seed should be sown until the temperature has declined to 80°. Sow +broadcast, cover with siftings just deep enough to hide the seed, and +close the frame. If after an interval the heat rises above 70°, give +air to keep it down to that figure or to 65°. It will probably decline +to 60° by the time the plant appears, but if the bed is a good one it +will stand at that figure long enough to make the crop. Thin betimes to +two or three inches, give air at every opportunity, let the plant have +all the light possible, and cover up when hard weather is expected. +Should the heat go down too soon, linings must be used to finish the +crop. Radishes and other small things can be grown on the same bed. In +cold frames seed may be sown in February. + +Warm Borders.—In March the first sowings on warm borders in the open +garden may be made. These may need the shelter of mats or old lights +until the plant has made a good start, but it is not often the plant +suffers in any serious degree from spring frosts, as the seed will not +germinate until the soil acquires a safe temperature. All the early +crops of Carrot can be grown on a prepared soil, or a light sandy loam, +free from recent manure. The drills may be spaced from six to nine +inches apart. + +For the main crops double digging should be practised, and if the +staple is poor a dressing of half-rotten dung may be put in with the +bottom spit. But a general manuring as for a surface-rooting crop is +not to be thought of, the sure effect being to cause the roots to fork +and fang most injuriously. It is sound practice to select for Carrots a +deep soil that was heavily manured the year before, and to prepare this +by double digging without manure in the autumn or winter, so as to have +the ground well pulverised by the time the seed is sown. Then dig it +over one spit deep, break the lumps, and make seed-beds four feet wide. +Sow in April and onwards in drills, mixing the seed with dry earth, the +distance between rows to be eight to twelve inches according to the +sort; cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine earth and finish the bed +neatly. As soon as possible thin the crop, but not to the full distance +in the first instance. The final spacing for main crops may be from six +to nine inches, determined by the variety. By a little management it +will be an easy matter during showery weather to draw delicate young +Carrots for the final thinning, and these will admirably succeed the +latest of the sowings in frames and warm borders. + +Late Crops.—Sowings of early varieties made in July will give delicate +little roots during the autumn and winter. The rows may be placed nine +inches apart, and it is essential to thin the plants early to about +three inches apart in the rows. In the event of very severe weather +protect with dry litter. For providing young Carrots throughout the +winter it is also an excellent plan to broadcast seed thinly. When +grown in this way the plants afford each other protection, and the +roots may be drawn immediately they are large enough. + +In July the culture of the smaller sorts may also be undertaken in +frames, but hot-beds may be dispensed with, and lights will not be +wanted until there is a crop needing protection, when the lights may be +put on, or the frames may be covered with shutters or mats. + +Storing.—Before autumn frosts set in the main crop should be lifted and +stored in dry earth or sand, the tops being removed and the earth +rubbed off, but without any attempt to clean them thoroughly until they +are wanted for use. + +Carrots for Exhibition.—It will be found well worth while to give a +little extra attention to the preparation of the ground when growing +Carrots for exhibition. As in the case of Beet and Parsnip, holes +should be bored to the requisite depth and about one foot apart in the +rows. Where the soil is at all unfavourable to the growth of clean +symmetrical roots the adoption of this practice will be essential to +success. Any light soil of good quality will be suitable for filling +the holes. Well firm the material in and sow about half a dozen seeds +at a station, eventually thinning out to one plant at each. The +tendency of Carrots to become green at the tops in the later stages of +growth, thus spoiling them for show work, may be prevented by lightly +covering the protruding portion of the root with sifted fine earth. + +Destructive Enemies.—The Carrot maggot and the wire-worm are +destructive enemies of this crop. In a later chapter on ‘The Pests of +Garden Plants,’ both these foes are referred to. Here it is only +necessary to say that sound judgment as to the choice of ground, deep +digging, and the preparation of the beds in good time, are the +preventives of these as of many other garden plagues. It is often +observed that main crops sown early in April suffer more than those +sown late, and the lesson is plain. It has also been noticed that where +the crops have suffered most severely the land was made ready in haste, +and the wild birds had no time to purge it of the insects which they +daily seek for food. + +CAULIFLOWER + +Brassica oleracea botrytis cauliflora + +This fine vegetable is managed in much the same way as Broccoli, and it +requires similar conditions. But it is less hardy in constitution, more +elegant in appearance, more delicate on the table, and needs greater +care in cultivation to insure satisfactory results. As regards soil, +the Cauliflower thrives best on very rich ground of medium texture. It +will also do well on light land, if heavily manured, and quick growth +is promoted by abundant watering. In Holland, Cauliflowers are grown in +sand with water at the depth of a foot only below the surface, and the +ground is prepared by liberal dressings of cow-manure, which, with the +moisture rising from below, promotes a quick growth and a fine quality. +In any case, good cultivation is necessary or the crop will be +worthless; and whatever may be the nature of the soil, it must be well +broken up and liberally manured. + +In gardens where Cauliflower are in great demand, an unbroken supply of +heads from May to November may be obtained by selecting suitable +varieties and with careful management of the crop. But in arranging for +a succession it should be borne in mind that some varieties are +specially adapted for producing heads in spring and summer, while +others are only suitable for use in late summer and autumn. + +For Spring and Early Summer use.—To have Cauliflower in perfection in +spring and early summer, seed should be sown in autumn. The exact time +is a question of climate. In the northern counties the middle of August +is none too early, but for the south seed may be got in during August +and September, according to local conditions. The most satisfactory +course is to sow in boxes, placed in a cool greenhouse or a cold frame, +or even in a sheltered spot out of doors. For these sowings it is +desirable to use poor soil of a calcareous nature, as at this period of +the year the seedlings are liable to damp off in rich earth. From the +commencement every endeavour must be made to keep the growth sturdy and +to avoid a check of any kind. When the plants have made some progress, +prick them off three inches apart each way into frames for the winter. +No elaborate appliances are necessary. A suitable frame may be easily +constructed by erecting wooden sides around a prepared bed of soil, +over which lights, window frames, or even a canvas covering may be +placed. Brick pits, or frames made with turf walls, will also answer +well. The soil should not be rich, or undesirable fleshy growth will +result, especially in a mild winter. It is important to ventilate +freely at all times, except during severe weather when the structures +should have the protection of mats or straw, and excessive moisture +must be guarded against. As soon as conditions are favourable in +February or March, transfer the plants to open quarters on the best +land at command, and give them every possible care. For these +early-maturing varieties a space of eighteen inches apart each way will +generally suffice. With liberal treatment, vigorous healthy growth +should be made and heads of the finest quality be ready for table from +May onwards. + +As we have already said, the best results with early Cauliflower are +obtained from an autumn sowing, but there are many growers who prefer +to sow in January or February. At this season the seed should be +started in pans or boxes placed in a house just sufficiently heated to +exclude frost. Prick out the plants early, in a frame or on a protected +border made up with light rich soil, and when strong enough plant out +on good ground. Spring sowings put out on poor land, or in dry seasons, +are sometimes disappointing, because the heads are too small to please +the majority of growers. Where, however, the soil is rich and the +district suitable there is this advantage in quick cultivation, that +while time is shortened and the worry of wintering is avoided, the crop +is safer against buttoning and bolting, which will occasionally occur +if the plants become too forward under glass and receive a check when +planted out. + +In well-prepared sheltered ground seed may also be sown in March and +April, from which the plants should be pricked out once before being +transferred to permanent positions. Occasional hoeing between the +plants and heavy watering in dry weather will materially tend to their +well-doing, the object being to maintain growth from the first without +a check. If the plants turn in during very hot weather, snap one of the +inner leaves without breaking it off, and bend it over to protect the +head. + +For use in Late Summer and Autumn.—Seed may be sown in April or very +early in May, and where only one sowing is made the first week of April +should be selected. A fine seed-bed in a sheltered spot is desirable, +and as soon as the seedlings are large enough they should be pricked +out, three inches or so apart. Shift to final quarters while in a +smallish state. If the plants are allowed to become somewhat large in +the seed-bed they are liable to ‘button,’ which means that small, +worthless heads will be produced as the result of an untimely check. +The distances between the plants may vary from one and a half to two +feet or more, and between the rows from two to two and a half feet, +according to the size of the variety. If put out on good ground, the +crop will almost take care of itself, but should the plants need water +it must be copiously given. + +Cutting and Preserving.—The management of the crop has been treated so +far as to growth, but we must now say a word about its appropriation. +The two points for practical consideration are, how to economise a +glut, and how to avoid destruction by frost. Cauliflowers should be cut +at daybreak, or as soon after as possible, and be taken from the ground +with the dew upon them. If cut after the dew has evaporated, the heads +will be inferior by several degrees as compared with those cut at the +dawn of the day. When the heads appear at too rapid a rate for +immediate consumption, draw the plants, allowing the earth to remain +attached to the roots, and suspend them head downwards in a cool, dark, +dry place, and every evening give them a light shower of water from a +syringe. The deterioration will be but trifling, and the gain may be +considerable, but if left to battle with a burning sun the Cauliflowers +will certainly be the worse for it. After being kept in this way for a +week, they will still be good, although, like other preserved +vegetables, they will not be so good as those freshly cut and in their +prime. It often happens that frost occurs before the crop is finished. +A similar plan of preserving those that are turning in may be adopted, +but it is better to bury them in sand in a shed or under a wall, and, +if kept dry, they may remain sound for a month or more. + +Cauliflower for Exhibition.—On the exhibition stage few vegetables win +greater admiration than well-grown heads of Cauliflower. Indeed, +Cauliflower and Broccoli, in their respective seasons, are +indispensable items in the composition of any first-class collection. +By closely following the cultural directions contained in the foregoing +pages no difficulty should be experienced in obtaining heads of the +finest texture and spotless purity during many months of the year. The +degree of success achieved is generally in proportion to the amount of +attention devoted to minor details. Select the most robust plants and +treat them generously. As soon as the heads are formed, examine them +frequently to prevent disfiguration by vermin. The best period of the +day for cutting has already been discussed. Do not allow the heads to +stand a day longer than is necessary, and if not wanted immediately the +plants should be lifted and preserved in the manner described in the +preceding paragraph. + +CELERY + +Apium graveolens + +Celery is everywhere esteemed, not only as a salad, but as a wholesome +and delicious vegetable. The crop requires the very best of +cultivation, and care should be taken not to push the growth too far, +for the gigantic Celery occasionally seen at Shows has, generally +speaking, the quality of size only, being tough and tasteless. +Nevertheless, the sorts that are held in high favour by growers of +prize Celery are good in themselves when grown to a moderate size; it +is the forcing system alone that deprives them of flavour. Yet another +precaution may be needful to prevent a mishap. In a hot summer, Celery +will sometimes ‘bolt’ or run up to flower, in which case it is +worthless. This may be the fault of the cultivator more than of the +seed or the weather, for a check in many cases hastens the flowering of +plants, and it is not unusual for Celery to receive a check through +mismanagement. If sown too early, it may be impossible to plant out +when of suitable size, and the consequent arrest of growth at a most +important stage may result in a disposition to flower the first year, +instead of waiting for the second. It should be understood, therefore, +that early sowing necessitates early planting, and the cultivator +should see his way clearly from the commencement. + +Sowing and Transplanting.—The 1st of March is early enough for a first +sowing anywhere of a small variety, and this will require a mild +hot-bed, or a place in the propagating house. Sow on rich fine soil in +boxes, cover lightly, and place in a temperature of 60°. When forward +enough prick out the plants on a rich bed close to the glass, in a +temperature of 60° to 65°, keep liberally moist, and give air, at first +with great caution, but increasing as the natural temperature rises +until the lights can be removed during the day. The plant may thus be +hardened for a first planting on a warm border in a bed consisting of +one-half rotten hot-bed manure and one-half of turfy loam. The bed need +not be deep, but it must be constantly moist, and old lights should be +at hand to give shelter when needful. If well grown in trenches, this +first crop will be of excellent quality, and will come in early. + +For the general crop a second sowing may be made of the finest Red and +White varieties, also on a mild hot-bed, in the second week of March, +and have treatment similar to the first, but once pricking out into the +open bed will be sufficient, the largest plants being put out first at +six inches, and to have shelter if needful; other plantings in the same +way to follow until the seed-bed is cleared. By good management this +sowing may be made to serve the purpose of three sowings, the chief +point being to prick out the most forward plants on another mild bed as +soon as they are large enough to be lifted, and to make a succession +from the same seed-bed as the plants advance to a suitable size. + +The third and last sowing may be made in the second week of April, in +an open border, on rich light soil, and should have the shelter of mats +or old lights during cold weather. From this, also, there should be two +or three prickings out, the first to be transferred to a bit of hard +ground, covered with about three inches of rich mulchy stuff, in the +warmest spot that can be found, and the last to a similar bed on the +coldest spot in the garden. In the final planting the same order should +be followed. The result will be a prolonged supply from one sowing, and +the first lot will come in early, though sown late, if the plants are +kept growing without a check, and receive thoroughly generous culture. + +The planting out is an important matter, and each lot will require +separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan. +Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to +make it fit for table. There are various ways of accomplishing these +ends, although they differ but slightly, and common sense will guide us +in the matter. For the earliest crops the ground must be laid out in +trenches, with as much rich stable manure dug in as can be afforded. To +overdo it in this respect seems impossible, for Celery, like +Cauliflower, will grow freely in rotten manure alone, without any +admixture of loam. The trenches should be eighteen inches wide at +bottom, ten inches deep, and four feet from centre to centre, and +should run north and south. The plants are to be carefully lifted with +a trowel, and placed six to nine inches apart in single or double rows, +and should have water as planted, that there may be no check. In a cold +soil and a cold season the trenches may be less in depth by two or +three inches with advantage. If dry weather ensues, water must be given +ungrudgingly, but earthing up should not commence until the plant has +made a full and profitable growth, for the earthing pretty well stops +the growth, and is but a finishing process, requiring from five to +seven weeks to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put +out in the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but +as the season advances the trenches must be less deep. + +Earthing up is often performed in a rough way, as though the plant were +made of wood instead of the most delicate tissue. The first earthing +should be done with a hand-fork, and quite loosely, to allow the heart +of the plant room to expand. The result should be a little ring of +light earth scarcely pressing the outside leaves, and leaving the whole +plant as free as it was before. A fortnight or so later the earthing +must be carried a stage further by means of the spade. Chop the earth +over, and lay it in heaps on each side of the plant. Then gather a +plant together with both hands, liberate one hand, and with it bring +the earth to the plant half round the base, and, changing hands, pack +up the earth on the other side. Be careful not to press the soil very +close; also avoid putting any crumbs into the heart of the plant; and +do not earth higher than the base of the leaves. As soon as may be +necessary repeat this process, carrying the earth a stage higher; and +about a week from this finish the operation. + +The top of the plant must now be closed, and the earth carefully packed +so high that only the very tops of the leaves are visible. Finish to a +proper slope with the spade, but do not press the plants unduly, the +object being simply to obtain a final growth of the innermost leaves in +darkness, but otherwise free from restraint. + +The Bed System answers particularly well for producing a large supply +of Celery with the least amount of labour. This method of cultivation +is also especially suitable for raising Celery intended to be served +when boiled, or for soups. Celery beds are made four and a half feet +wide and ten inches deep, the soil which is taken out being laid up in +a slope round the outside of the bed, and the bank thus formed may be +planted with any quick crop, such as Dwarf Beans. The ground will need +to be heavily manured in the same manner as for the trench system. +Space the plants six inches apart in single or double lines, as may be +preferred, and allow not less than twelve inches between the rows. +Water must be given to each row as planted; afterwards the surface to +be several times chopped over with the hoe or a small fork, and +watering repeated until the plants have made a start. An easy means of +blanching is by the use of stiff paper collars as described below; +another simple method is to place mats over the tops of the plants when +nearly full grown. The bed system is not only economical, but +convenient for sheltering in winter, and should have the attention of +gardeners who are expected to supply abundance of Celery throughout the +winter and spring, for in such cases a large sample is not required, +but quality and continuance are of importance. + +It is a great point to keep Celery unhurt by frost far on in the +winter, and the advantage of growing the late crops on dry light soil, +and on the bed system, will be seen in the ease with which the plants +can be preserved. On heavy soil Celery soon suffers from frost, but not +so readily on a soil naturally light and dry. Moreover, the bed system +allows of many methods of protection, with whatever materials are at +command. In heavy soil fine crops of Celery for autumn use may be +grown, but in consequence of the liability of the plant to suffer by +winter damp, it is advisable to plant late crops on the level, and +earth up from the adjoining plots in order to keep the roots dry in +winter. Another step towards securing a late supply consists in bending +the tops on one side at the final earthing, which prevents the +trickling of water into the heart of the plant during heavy rain or +snow. + +Celery for Exhibition.—From the opening paragraph it will be gathered +that to produce extra fine specimens of Celery for exhibition very +generous treatment of the plants is necessary. Apart from the choice of +varieties—and only the finest strains should be considered—four points +are of especial importance to the cultivator. The ground must be +liberally enriched; at no period should the plant receive a check or +suffer for want of water; there must be the closest inspection at +frequent intervals to prevent disfiguration of the stalks or leaves by +slugs, snails, or the Celery fly; and finally the operation of +blanching will need great care and discretion. These points have +already been dealt with at some length. But on the question of +blanching it may be well to add that in order to insure perfect +specimens, free from blemish, artificial means of some kind must be +adopted in place of earthing up in the ordinary way. The use of strips +of good quality brown paper will prove both simple and effectual. These +strips need not exceed a width of five or six inches, fresh bands being +added as growth develops. Tie them securely with raffia or twine, +making due allowance for expansion of the plant, and when in position +carefully draw the soil towards the base. + +The numerous enemies of Celery, such as slugs, snails, the +mole-cricket, and the maggot, do not seriously interfere with the crop +where good cultivation prevails, but the Celery fly appears to be +indifferent to good cultivation, and therefore must be dealt with +directly. Dusting the leaves occasionally with soot has been found to +operate beneficially. It should be done during the month of June on the +mornings of days that promise to be sunny. If the soot is put on +carelessly it will do more harm than good; a very fine dusting will +suffice to render the plant distasteful to the fly. Syringing the +leaves with water impregnated with tar has also saved plants from +attack. Where the eggs are lodged the leaves will soon appear +blistered, and the maggot within must be crushed by pinching the +blister between the thumb and finger. Leaves that are much blistered +should be removed and burned, but to rob the plants of many leaves will +seriously reduce the vigour of growth. + +Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery, is much prized on the Continent as a +cooked vegetable, and as a salad. In ordinary Celery the stem forms a +mere basis to the leaves, but in Celeriac it is developed into a knob +weighing from one to five pounds, and the root is more easily preserved +than Celery. When cooked in the same manner as Sea Kale, Celery is well +known as a delicacy at English tables, and the cooked Celeriac ranks in +importance with it, though it affords quite a different dish. The stem +or axis of the plant is used, and not the stalks. To grow fine Celeriac +a long season is requisite; and therefore it is advisable to sow the +seed in a gentle heat early in March, and afterwards prick out and +treat as Celery; but after the first stage the treatment is altogether +different. For the plantation a light and rich soil is required, and +where the staple is heavy, a small bed can easily be prepared by +spreading six inches depth of any sandy soil over the surface. The +plants must be put out on the level a foot and a half apart each way, +and be planted as shallow as possible. Before planting, trim carefully +to remove lateral shoots that might divide the stems, and after +planting water freely. The cultivation will consist in keeping the crop +clean, and frequently drawing the soil away from the plants, for the +more they stand out of the ground the better, provided they are not +distressed. They must never stand still for want of water, or the roots +will not attain to a proper size. The lateral shoots and fibres must be +removed to keep the roots intact, but not to such an extent as to +arrest progress. When a good growth has been made, and the season is +declining, cover the bulbs or stems with a thin coat of fine soil, and +in the first week of October lift a portion of the crop and store it in +sand, all the leaves being first removed, except those in the centre, +which must remain, or the roots may waste their energies in producing +another set. The portion of the crop left in the ground will need +protection from frost, and this can be accomplished by earthing them +over with soil taken from between the rows. + +Celeriac is cooked in the same manner as Beet, and requires about the +same length of time. The stems, bulbs, or roots (for the knobs, which +are true stems, are known by various names) are trimmed, washed, and +put into boiling water without salt or any flavouring, and kept boiling +until quite tender; they may then be pared, sliced, and served with +white sauce, or left uncut to be sliced up for salads when cold. + +CHICORY + +Cichorium Intybus + +A valuable addition to the supply of winter and spring roots. When +stewed and served with melted butter, Chicory bears a slight +resemblance to Sea Kale. More frequently, however, it is eaten in the +same manner as Celery, with cheese, and it also makes an excellent and +most wholesome salad. All the garden varieties have been obtained from +the wild plant, and some of the stocks show a decided tendency to +revert to the wild condition. It is therefore important to sow a +carefully selected strain, or the roots may be worthless for producing +heads. + +Seed should be sown in May or June, in rows one foot apart, and the +plants thinned out to about nine inches in the rows. The soil must be +deep and rich, but free from recent manure, except at a depth of twelve +inches, when the roots will attain the size of a good Parsnip. + +In autumn the roots must be lifted uninjured with the aid of a fork, +and only a few at a time, as required. After cutting off the tops just +above the crown, they can at once be started into growth, and it is +essential that this be made in absolute darkness. French growers plant +in a warm bed of the temperature suited to Mushrooms, but this +treatment ruins the flavour, and has the effect of making the fibre of +the leaves woolly. It is far simpler and better to put the roots into a +cellar or shed in which a temperature above the freezing point may be +relied on, and from which every ray of light can be excluded. They can +be closely packed in deep boxes, with light soil or leaf-mould between. +If the soil be fairly moist, watering will not be necessary for a +month, and had better not be resorted to until the plants show signs of +flagging. Instead of boxes, a couple of long and very wide boards, +stood on edge and supported from the outside, make a convenient and +effective trough. The packing of the roots with soil can be commenced +at one end, and be gradually extended through the entire length, until +the part first used is ready for a fresh start. Breaking the leaves is +better than cutting, and gathering may begin about three weeks after +the roots are stored. From well-grown specimens, heads may be obtained +equal to a compact Cos Lettuce, and by a little management it is easy +to maintain a supply from October until the end of May. The quantity of +salading to be obtained from a few roots is really astonishing. + +CORN SALAD + +Valerianella olitoria + +Corn Salad, or Lamb’s Lettuce, so often seen on Continental tables, is +comparatively unknown in this country. The reason for this is, perhaps, +to be found in the fact that, as a raw vegetable, it is not +particularly palatable, although when dressed as a salad with oil and +the usual condiments it is altogether delicious, and forms a most +refreshing episode in the routine of a good dinner. Corn Salad is a +plant of quick growth, and is valued for its early appearance in +spring, when elegant salads are much in request. It may be mixed with +other vegetables for the purpose, or served alone with a little +suitable preparation. + +The most important sowings are made in August and September. Seed may, +however, be sown at any time from February to October, but only those +who are accustomed to the plant should trouble to secure summer crops; +when Lettuces are plentiful Corn Salad is seldom required. Any good +soil will grow it, but the situation should be dry and open. Sow in +drills six inches apart, and thin to six inches in the rows. The crop +is taken in the same way as Spinach, either by the removal of separate +leaves or cutting over in tufts. + +COUVE TRONCHUDA + +Brassica oleracea costata + +Couve Tronchuda, or Portugal Cabbage, is a fine vegetable that should +be grown in every garden, including those in which Cabbages generally +are not regarded as of much importance. The plant is of noble growth, +and in rich ground requires abundant room for the spread of its great +leaves, the midribs of which are thick, white, tender, and when cooked +in the same manner as Sea Kale quite superb in quality. When a fair +crop of these midribs has been taken there remains the top Cabbage, +which is excellent. + +Two or three sowings may be made in February, March, and April, and the +early ones must be in heat. Transfer to rich soil as early as possible, +giving the plants ample room, from two to three feet each way, and aid +with plentiful supplies of water in dry weather. + +CRESS + +Lepidium sativum + +Cress is best grown in small lots from frequent sowings, and the sorts +should be kept separate, and, if possible, on the same border. Fresh +fine soil is requisite, and there is no occasion for manuring, in fact +it is objectionable, but a change of soil must be made occasionally to +insure a good growth. The seed is usually sown too thick, yet thin +sowing is not to be recommended. It is important to cut Cress when it +is just ready—tender, green, short, and plump. This it will never be if +sown too thick, or allowed to stand too long. Immediately the plant +grows beyond salad size it becomes worthless, and should be dug in. +From small sowings at frequent intervals under glass a constant supply +of Cress may be kept up through the cold months of the year, for which +purpose shallow boxes or pans will be found most convenient. Cress +generally requires rather more time than Mustard. + +American or Land Cress (_Barbarea præcox_) is of excellent quality when +grown on a good border, and two or three sowings should be made in the +spring and autumn in shady spots. If the site is not naturally moist, +water must be copiously given. + +Water Cress (_Nasturtium officinale_) is so highly prized that many who +are out of the reach of ordinary sources of supply would gladly +cultivate it were there a reasonable prospect of success. Assertions +have been made that it can be grown in any garden without water, but we +have never yet seen a sample fit to eat which has been grown without +assistance from the water can. A running stream is not necessary. Make +a trench in a shady spot, and well enrich the soil at the bottom of it. +In this sow the seed in March, and when the plants are established keep +the soil well moistened. The more freely this is done the better will +be the result. Other sowings may be made in April, August, and +September. We have seen Water Cress successfully cultivated in pots and +pans immersed in saucers of water placed in shady positions. + +CUCUMBER + +Cucumis sativus + +The Cucumber is everywhere valued. Its exceeding usefulness explains +its popularity, and happily the plant is of an accommodating character. +In large establishments, Cucumbers are grown at all seasons of the +year; in medium-sized gardens, summer Cucumbers are generally deemed +sufficient, and there is no difficulty in growing an abundant and +continuous supply of the finest quality. The winter cultivation demands +suitable appliances and skilful management; but a very small house, +with an efficient heating apparatus, will suffice to produce a large +and constant supply, and therefore winter Cucumbers need not be +regarded as beyond the range of practice of any ordinary well-kept +garden. + +Frame Cucumbers are the most in demand, and the easiest to grow. The +very first point for the cultivator is to determine when to begin, for +the rule is to begin too early, and to waste time and opportunity in +consequence. We will suppose the Cucumbers are to be grown in a +two-light frame, for which will be required four good cartloads of +stable manure. This should be put in a heap three weeks before the bed +is made up, and the bed will have to last until the season is +sufficiently advanced to sustain the heat without any further +fermentation. Considering these points, it will be understood that it +is a far safer proceeding to begin the first week in April than the +first week in March, and unless the way is clearly seen, the later date +is certainly preferable, for it reduces to a minimum the conflict with +time in the matter of bottom heat. Make up the heap; then, early in +March, turn it twice, and at the end of the month prepare the bed, +firming the stuff with a fork as the work proceeds, but taking care not +to tread on the bed. Put on the lights and leave the affair for five or +six days; then lay down a bed of rich loamy soil of a somewhat light +and turfy texture, about nine inches deep. It is now optional to sow or +plant as may be most convenient. Strong plants in pots, put out at +once, will fruit earlier than plants from seeds sown on the bed. But +sowing on the bed is good practice for all that, and if this plan is +adopted a few more seeds must be sown than the number of plants +required, to provide a margin for enemies; any surplus plants will +generally prove useful, for Cucumber plants seldom go begging. If it is +preferred to begin with plants, the question of providing them must be +considered in good time. The seed should be sown at least a month in +advance, and should be brought forward on a hot-bed or in a cool part +of a stove. Many a successful Cucumber grower has no better means of +raising plants than by sowing the seeds in a box or pan of light rich +earth, kept in a sunny corner of a common greenhouse, with a slate or +tile laid over until the seeds start, and by a little careful +management nice thrifty plants are secured in the course of about four +weeks. In some books on horticulture a great deal is said as to the +soil in which Cucumber seed should be sown. We advise the reader not to +make too much of that question. Any turfy loam, or even peat, will +answer; but a rank soil is certainly unfit. The object should be to +obtain short, stout plants of a healthy green colour; not the +long-drawn, pallid things that are often to be seen on sale, and which +by their evident weakness seem destined to illustrate the problems of +Cucumber disease. + +Having made a beginning with strong plants on a good bed, the two +matters of importance are to regulate the temperature and the watering. +In the first instance, it will be necessary to shade the plants a +little, but as they acquire strength they should have more light and +more air than are usually allowed to Cucumbers. A temperature averaging +60° by night and 80° by day will be found safe and profitable, as +promoting a healthy growth and lasting fruitfulness. But the rule must +be elastic. You may shut up at 90° without harm, and during sunshine +the glass may rise to 95° without injury, provided the plants have air +and are not dry at the roots. But it is of great moment that the night +temperature should be kept near 60° and not go below it. If the +thermometer shows that the night temperature has been above the proper +point owing to the heat of the bed, wedge up the lights about half an +inch in the evening, and as the season advances increase this supply of +night air, for it keeps the plants in health, provided there is no +chill accompanying it. As regards watering, the important point is to +employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a +spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame ready +for use, and when emptied should be filled again and left for the next +watering. Twice a day at least the plants and the sides of the frame +should receive a shower from the syringe. It is better to syringe three +times than twice, but this must be in some degree determined by the +temperature. The greater the heat, the more freely should air and water +be supplied; on the other hand, if the heat runs down, give water with +caution, or disaster may follow. In case of emergency the plants will +go through a bad time without serious damage if kept almost dry, and +then it will be prudent to give but little air. Sometimes the heat of +the bed runs out before there is sufficient sun heat to keep the plants +growing, but if they can be maintained in health for a week or so, hot +weather may set in, and all will come right. But to carry Cucumbers +through at such a time demands particular care as to watering and +air-giving. + +As regards stopping and training, we may as well say at once, that the +less of both the better. Free healthy natural growth will result in an +abundant production of fruit, and stopping and training will do very +little to promote the end in view. But there is something to be done to +secure an even growth and the exposure of every leaf to light. When the +young plant has made three rough leaves, nip out the point to encourage +the production of shoots from the base. When the shoots have made four +leaves, nip out the points to promote a further growth of side shoots, +and after this there must be no more stopping until there is a show of +fruit. The growth should be pegged out to cover the bed in the most +regular manner possible, and wherever superfluous shoots appear they +must be removed. Any crowding will have to be paid for, because crowded +shoots are not fruitful. If a great show of fruit appears suddenly, +remove a large portion of it, as over-cropping makes a troublesome glut +for a short time, and then there is an end of the business; but by +keeping the crop down to a reasonable limit, the plants will bear +freely to the end of the season. Every fruiting shoot should be stopped +at two leaves beyond the fruit, and as the crop progresses there must +be occasional pruning out of old shoots to make room for young ones. An +error of management likely to occur with a beginner is allowing the bed +to become dry below while it is kept quite moist above by means of the +syringe. Many cultivators drive sticks into the bed here and there, and +from time to time they draw these out and judge by their appearance +whether or not the bed needs a heavy watering. To be dry at the root is +deadly to the Cucumber plant, and to be in a swamp is not less deadly. +It must have abundance of moisture above and below, but stagnation of +either air or water will bring disease, ending in a waste of labour. + +The greenhouse cultivation of the Cucumber for a summer crop only is +the most profitable and simple as well as the most interesting of all +the methods practised. In many gardens the houses that have been filled +during the winter with Geraniums and other plants are very poorly +furnished during the summer, and present a most unsightly appearance. +Now, it is a very easy matter to render them at once profitable and +beautiful, for when clothed with green vines bearing handsome +Cucumbers, such houses are attractive and pay their way amazingly well. +To carry out the routine properly, the house should be cleared at the +end of April, the plants being removed to pits and frames. If possible, +make up the beds on slates laid close over the hot-water pipes, and use +a bushel or more of soil under each light to begin with. First lay on +the slate a large seed-pan, bottom upwards, and on that a few flat +tiles, and then heap up a shallow cone of nice light turfy loam. Start +the fire and shut up, and raise the heat of the empty house to 80° or +90° for one whole day. The next day plant on each hillock a short stout +Cucumber plant, or sow three seeds. Proceed as advised for frame +culture, keeping a temperature of 60° by night and 80° by day, with a +rise of 5° to 10° during sunshine. Ply the syringe freely, give air +carefully, and use the least amount of shading possible. It will very +soon be found that by judicious management in shutting up and +air-giving, the firing may be dispensed with, and then it remains only +to syringe freely and train with care. The plants should not be stopped +at all, but be taken up direct to the roof and be trained out on a few +wires or tarred string, in the first instance right and left, and +afterwards along the rafters to meet at the ridge, and form a rich +leafy arcade. The fruits will appear in quantity, and must be thinned +to prevent over-cropping. As the plants grow, earth must be added to +the hillocks until there is a continuous bed, on which a certain number +of shoots may be trained where there is sufficient light for them. It +is best to begin as advised above, with the aid of fire heat to start +the crop for the sake of gaining time; but if this is not convenient +begin without fire heat in the last week of May, and the plants will +produce fruit until the chill of autumn makes an end of them, and the +house is again required for the greenhouse plants. + +Winter Cucumbers thrive best in lean-to houses with somewhat steep +roofs, as such houses are less liable to chill during cold windy +weather, and they catch a maximum of the winter sunshine. In a mild +winter, Cucumbers may be grown in any kind of house that can be +maintained at a suitable temperature, and the markets are supplied from +rough constructions that do duty for many purposes. But in hard +weather, the steep lean-to, with bed along the front, and tank to give +equable bottom heat, will prove the most serviceable, as it will +neither allow snow to lodge on the glass, nor suffer any serious +decline of temperature during the prevalence of sharp frost and keen +winds. For late autumn supply any kind of house will suffice, but best +of all an airy span. A brick pit will answer every purpose from October +to March with good management, and fermenting materials will afford the +needful heat. In such cases trenches should be provided for occasional +renewal of the bottom heat. But a roomy house and a service of hot +water justly stand in favour with experienced cultivators, as combining +the necessary conditions with convenience of management. + +For winter culture, plants are raised from seeds and from cuttings. +Seedling plants are the most vigorous, but they require a little more +time than cuttings to arrive at a fruiting state. For pot culture +cuttings are preferable, as only a moderate crop is expected, and +quickness of production is of great importance. It is usual to sow the +first lot of seeds on the 1st of September, and to sow again on the 1st +of October and the 1st of November; after which it is not advisable to +sow again until the 1st of February for the spring crop. If the +management is good, the first sowing will be in fruit by the time the +third batch of seed is sown, say, by the first week of November, and +thenceforward throughout the winter there should be no break in the +supply. + +The management of Winter Cucumbers turns upon details chiefly, and will +be found in the end to depend rather upon care than skill. The general +principles are the same as in growing Cucumbers in frames, the task for +the cultivator being to carry them out successfully. Begin by sowing +the seed singly in small pots in light turfy loam, or peat with which a +fair proportion of sharp sand has been mixed. These pots to be placed +in a heat of 70° to 75°, and for plants to last long the lower +temperature is preferable. As regards the next stage, the plants may be +trained up rafters, or spread out on beds, the first being always the +better plan where it happens to be convenient. But the prudent +cultivator will not be tied to rules; he will cut his coat according to +his cloth, and while he has a house of Cucumbers trained to the roof, +he will, perhaps, also have a pit filled with plants on beds. To stop +severely is bad practice, for vigorous growth is wanted; but a certain +amount of stopping must be done to promote an even growth, and to +distribute the fruit fairly both in space and time. We have already +admitted that in some books on gardening too much has been said about +soil. In many places a suitable turfy loam, or a good fibrous peat, may +be obtained, and the accidents that have befallen Cucumbers have +usually been the result of bad management in respect of heat, water, +and air, rather than the use of unsuitable soil. But it must not be +supposed that we are careless about this matter. Neither a pasty clay, +a sour sticky loam, nor a poor sandy or chalky soil will produce fine +Cucumbers. On the other hand, rank manure and poor leaf-mould are both +unfavourable materials. There is nothing like mellow loam, which can be +enriched and modified at discretion, without going to extremes. + +Ridge Cucumbers are grown in much the same way as recommended for +Vegetable Marrows. They may be put on hillocks or beds, and in either +case a foundation of fermenting material is required to insure a crop +in the early part of the summer. For a late crop, the natural heat of +the soil will be sufficient should the summer prove to be fine, but in +a cold season Ridge Cucumbers are disappointing. Of the many methods of +growing them, one of the best is to lay out the ground in four-feet +beds by taking out the soil to a depth of fifteen inches, and spreading +about that depth or more of half-rotted manure, to which may be added +any leaves and other litter that may be handy. Cover with a foot depth +of good loam. About mid-April sow the seeds in three-inch pots or in +boxes and place in a cool greenhouse. After careful hardening, plant +out about the third week of May. If preferred, seeds may be sown on the +bed early in May. Give the plants the protection of a hand-light should +the weather prove unfavourable, and some care will be needed to keep +them moving fairly until the season is so far advanced as to allow for +the removal of the lights. Put the plants at thirty inches apart down +the middle of the bed, and when growing freely, nip out the points +_once only_. A crop of Lettuce may be taken from the beds while the +plants are advancing. + +DANDELION + +Taraxacum officinale + +As a salad Dandelion has won general esteem for its wholesome medicinal +qualities. Nature teaches the way to grow this plant, for she sows the +seed in early summer, and we find the finest plants on dry ground, +while there are none to be found in bogs and swamps. Any gravelly or +chalky soil will grow good Dandelion, one fair digging without manure +being a sufficient preparation for it. Sow in May or June, and thin to +one foot apart every way, keeping the crop scrupulously clean by flat +hoeing. Any time in the winter the roots may be lifted and forced in +the same way as Sea Kale, or they may be covered with pots in spring to +blanch where grown. In any case the spring growth must be made in +darkness, for when green the flavour is bitter. Invalids who require +this salutary salad may obtain early supplies by planting the roots in +boxes in a cellar, and covering with empty boxes. Only as much water +should be given as will keep the roots reasonably moist. + +EGG PLANT (AUBERGINE) + +Solatium Melongena, S. esculentum + +In this country the Egg Plant is generally grown merely as an ornament, +but it is a delicious vegetable when sliced and fried in oil, the +purple-and black-fruited kinds being especially serviceable for the +table. The common white, which is best known, is fairly good when +cooked young, though less rich in flavour than the purple. The +cultivation recommended for Capsicum will suit the Egg Plant, but +little atmospheric moisture is needed or the seedlings may damp off. +They are not well adapted for planting out, although in a warm season +they will fruit freely under a sunny wall, and will grow in a gravel +walk if helped at first with a little good soil round the roots. If +required in quantity for the table, the purple variety may be grown in +a frame from plants raised on a hot-bed. Generally speaking, a few +plants in pots are all that are required where the fruit is not valued +as an esculent. + +ENDIVE + +Cichorium Endivia + +As a result of the growing taste for wholesome salads Endive has +considerably advanced in public esteem. The flavour of well-blanched +Endive suits most palates that have had experience of salads, and of +the salutary properties of the plant we have a hint in its close +relation to the Chicory. + +The selection of sorts is a question of importance, because the +handsome curled varieties that make the best appearance on the table, +and might be regarded as ornaments if they were not edible, are the +very finest for salads, being tender, with a fresh nutty flavour. The +broad-leaved sorts are not so well adapted for salads as for stews, and +they take the place of Lettuces when the latter are not available for +soups and ragoûts. However, when an emergency occurs, the curled +varieties will be found suitable for cooking, and the broad-leaved for +salading, and therefore there need be no waste where one sort +predominates. + +Soil.—A difficulty common to Endive culture may be got over in the way +advised for Celeriac. The plant requires a light, dry, sandy soil; and +a portion, at least, of the crop is expected to stand through the +winter. Thus on a heavy soil there is a prospect of failure in respect +of the late crop, but that is obviated by adopting a made bed—one of +smallish dimensions being sufficient to accommodate a large stock of +plants. Select an open spot, make a foundation of any hard rubbish that +is at hand, and on this put one to two feet of sandy soil. This will +form a raised bed of a kind exactly suited to the plant, and will cost +but little as compared with its ultimate value. If regularly dressed +with manure, and otherwise well managed, the bed will supply Endive in +winter and other salads in summer, or it may be cropped with Dwarf +Beans, which can be removed in August to make way for the usual +planting of Endive. Where the soil is naturally light and dry no such +preparation is needed, but Endive does not come to perfection without +food, and therefore the soil should be rich and deeply dug. + +Sowing and Transplanting.—The seed may be sown as early as March, in a +moderate heat, but the latter part of April is early enough for most +purposes, and the main sowings are made in June. Later sowings may +follow in July and August. But the June sowing is the most important, +as by a little careful management it will supply a few early heads and +many late ones. Sow in shallow drills six inches apart, and when the +plants are an inch high draw the most forward, and prick them out on a +bed of rich light soil in the same way as Celery, and with a little +nursing these will make a first plantation. The plants in the seed-bed +should be thinned to three inches, and must have water in dry weather. +All the thinnings should be pricked out in the first instance to make +them strong for planting, but the last lot may go direct to the beds to +finish. + +The final planting must be on rich, light, dry soil, and water given to +encourage growth. The distance for the curled varieties is a foot each +way, and for the broad-leaved fifteen inches. In taking the last lot +from the seed-bed, a crop should be left untouched to mature at twelve +to fifteen inches apart. These plants will give a first and most +excellent supply if carefully blanched. + +If more convenient, seed may be sown where the crop is intended to +stand, the plants being thinned to the distances already given. + +The blanching is an important business, and is variously performed. The +customary mode is to tie the leaves together in the manner usual with +Lettuce and mould them up. This method answers perfectly, except in wet +seasons, when, if the plants stand for some time, the outer leaves +begin to rot, and the decay proceeds inwards, to the deterioration or +destruction of the plant. A clean and effective process is to cover the +heart of the plant with a flower-pot. The hole is darkened with part of +a tile or slate, on which should be laid a piece of turf or a handful +of mould. A plate or clean tile placed over the centre of the plant +will also blanch Endives satisfactorily in autumn. For winter supplies, +the plants may be lifted as wanted and placed in boxes or pots of soil, +these being covered with other boxes or pots to exclude light. A +Mushroom-house, cellar, or under a greenhouse stage, will serve for +storing the lifted plants. The blanching must be carried on in such a +way as to insure a succession without a glut at any time, for when +sufficiently blanched Endive should be used, or decay will soon set in. + +GARLIC + +Allium sativura + +The mode of culture advised for Shallots will suit Garlic also, except +that the latter should be planted in February about two inches beneath +the surface of the soil, and the bulbs may be grown closer together, +about eight or nine inches apart each way. + +When large bulbs are required for exhibition or other purposes, the +cloves—as the divisions of each root are called—should be planted +separately; but for general use moderate-sized bulbs, planted whole, +will produce a heavier crop. + +GOURD and PUMPKIN + +(Cucurbita) + +Gourds and Pumpkins may be grown to perfection by precisely the same +method recommended for Ridge Cucumbers; but as the plants occupy more +space, room must be left for them to extend south wards beyond the +limits of the ridge. It is well to put out strong plants from seeds +sown in pots in April or May, and protect them until established. If +these are not obtainable, the seed may be sown where the plants are +intended to stand, and there will in time be plenty of produce, but of +course somewhat later in the season than if strong plants had been put +out in the first instance. Keep a sharp look-out for slugs, which will +flock in from all quarters to feast upon them, but will scarcely touch +them after they have been planted a week or so. Any rough fermenting +material, such as grass mowings, may be used in making the hills, to +give them the aid of a warm bed for a brief space of time, and it is a +great gain if they grow freely from the first. Later on the natural +heat will be enough for them. + +The edible Gourds are useful in all their stages and ages; and if the +cultivator has a fancy to grow large, handsome fruits, he can make the +business answer by hanging them up for use in winter, when they may be +employed in soups in place of Carrots, or in addition to the usual +vegetables, and may indeed be cooked in half a dozen different ways. +There remains yet one more purpose to which the plants may be applied: +supposing you have a great plantation of edible Gourds and Marrows, and +would like a peculiarly elegant and delicious dish of Spinach, pinch +off a sufficiency of the tops of the advancing shoots, and cook them +Spinach fashion. If properly done, it is one of the finest vegetables +ever eaten. As pinching off the tender tops of the shoots lessens the +fruitfulness of the vines, we only recommend this procedure where there +is a large plantation. + +Gourds may be trained to trellises, fences, and walls. In all such +cases, a good bed should be prepared of any light, rich loam, and it +will be none the less effective if made on a mound of fermenting +material. + +HERBS + +With certain exceptions, the growing of Sweet Herbs from seeds is +altogether advantageous. The plants come perfectly true, and are so +vigorous that it is easier to raise them from seed than to secure a +succession from slips or cuttings. To meet a large and continuous +demand in the kitchen there must be a proportionate plantation in the +border; but in gardens of medium size we do not advocate the culture of +Herbs on an extensive scale, unless there be a special object in view. +A moderate number of Herbs will meet the necessities of most families. +Still it is a fact that the tendency is always in the direction of +increased variety, and gardeners are called on to provide frequent +changes of flavouring Herbs, some of which are quite as highly prized +in salads as they are for culinary purposes. + +In the smallest gardens, Mint, Parsley, Sage, and both Common and Lemon +Thyme, must find a place. In gardens which have any pretension to +supply the needs of a luxurious table there should be added Basil, +Chives, Pot and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel, +Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens +generally contain a plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties +which follow. + +Several of the most popular Herbs, such as Chives, Mint, Tarragon, and +Lemon Thyme, are not grown from seed—at all events, those who venture +on the pastime might employ their labour to greater advantage. But +others, such as Basil, Borage, Chervil, Fennel, Marjoram, Marigold, +Parsley, Savory, &c., are grown from seed, in some cases of necessity, +and in others because it is the quicker and easier way of securing a +crop. + +Angelica and Mint flourish in moist soil, but the majority of aromatic +Herbs succeed on land that is dry, poor, and somewhat sandy, rather +than in the rich borders that usually prevail in the Kitchen Garden. +Happily they are not very particular, but sunshine they must have for +the secretion of their fragrant essences. A narrow border marked off in +drills, and, if possible, sloping to the south, will answer admirably. +Thin the plants in good time, and the thinnings of those wanted in +quantity may, if necessary, be transplanted. The soil must be kept free +from weeds, and every variety be allowed sufficient space for full +development. + +Angelica (_A. Archangelica_).—A native biennial which is not easily +raised from seed treated in the ordinary way. Germination is always +capricious, slow and irregular. It may be several months before the +plants begin to appear. The best results are obtained by placing the +seed in sand, kept moist for several weeks before sowing. The leaves +and stalks are sometimes blanched and eaten as Celery, and are also +boiled with meat and fish. Occasionally the tender stems and midribs +are coated with candied sugar as a confection. Angelica was formerly +supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, but its reputation as a +remedy for poison and as a preventive of infectious diseases is not +supported by the disciples of modern chemistry. The seeds are still +used for flavouring liqueurs. + +Balm (_Melissa officinalis_).—A perennial herb, which can be propagated +by cuttings or grown as an annual from seed. An essential oil is +distilled from the leaves, but they are chiefly used, when dried, for +making tea for invalids, especially those suffering from fever. The +plant has also been used for making Balm wine. Sow in May. + +Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the +same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April. + +Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally obtained +from India, and one of the most popular of the flavouring Herbs. Seeds +should be sown in February or March in gentle heat. When large enough +the seedlings must be pricked off into boxes until they are ready for +transferring to a rich border in June, or seed may be sown in the open +ground during April and May. A space of eight inches between the plants +in the rows will suffice, but the rows should be at least a foot apart. +The flower-stems must be cut as they rise, and be tied in bundles for +winter use. This practice will prolong the life of the plant until late +in the season. Many gardeners lift plants in September, pot them, and +so maintain a supply of fresh green leaves until winter is far +advanced. + +Borage (_Borago officinalis_).—A native hardy plant, which thrives in +poor, stony soil. The flowers are used for flavouring purposes, +especially for claret-cup. Borage is also a great favourite with +bee-masters. Sow in April or May in good loam, and thin to fifteen or +eighteen inches apart. The rows should be from eighteen to twenty-four +inches asunder, for the plant is tall, and strong in growth. + +Chervil, Curled (_Anthriscus Cerefolium_).—Used for salads, garnishing, +and culinary purposes. To secure a regular supply of leaves small +successional sowings are necessary from spring to autumn, and frequent +watering in dry weather will prevent the plants from being spoiled by +throwing up seed-stems. For winter use, sow in boxes kept in a warm +temperature. + +Chives (_Allium Schænoprasum_).—A mild substitute for the Onion in +salads and soups. The plant is a native of Britain, and will grow +freely in any ordinary garden soil. Propagation is effected by division +of the roots either in spring or autumn. The clumps should be cut +regularly in succession whether wanted or not, with the object of +maintaining a continuous growth of young and tender shoots. At +intervals of four years it will be necessary to lift, divide, and +replant the roots on fresh ground. + +Fennel (_Fæniculum officinale_).—A hardy perennial which has been +naturalised in some parts of this country. It is grown in gardens to +furnish a supply of its elegant feathery foliage for garnishing and for +use in fish sauces. Occasionally the stems are blanched and eaten in +the same way as Celery, and in the natural state they are boiled as a +vegetable. The seeds are also employed for flavouring. Sow in drills in +April and May, and thin the plants to fifteen inches apart. + +Finocchio, or Florence Fennel (_Fæniculum dulce_, DC).—A sweet-tasting +herb, very largely grown in the south of Italy, where it is eaten both +in the natural state and when boiled. Sow in the open ground during +spring or early summer, in rows about eighteen inches apart, and thin +or transplant to six or nine inches. When the base begins to swell, +earth up the plants in the same manner as Celery. If transplanted, +pinch off the tips of the roots. + +Horehound (_Marrubium vulgare_).—A well-known medicinal herb, from +which an extract is obtained for subduing irritating coughs. Sow in +April or May, and thin the plants until they stand fifteen inches +apart. + +Hyssop (_Hyssopus officinalis_).—The leaves and young shoots are used +as a pot-herb, and the leafy tops and flowers, when dried, are employed +for medicinal purposes. Hyssop is also occasionally used as an edging +plant. A dry soil and warm situation suit it. Sow in April, and thin +the plants to a foot apart in the rows. + +Lavender (_Lavandula_).—Universally known and valued for its perfume. +Although the plant is generally propagated from cuttings, it can easily +be grown from seed sown in April or May. The plants attain a height of +one or two feet, and the stems should not be cut until the flowers are +expanded. + +Marigold, Pot (_Calendula officinalis_).—Employed both in flower and +vegetable gardens: in the former as a bedding annual, and in the latter +that the flowers may be dried and stored for colouring and flavouring +soups; also for distilling. In April or May sow the seed in drills one +foot apart, and thin the plants to the same distance in the rows. + +Marjoram, Pot (_Origanum Onites_).—One of the most familiar Herbs in +British gardens. The aromatic leaves are used both green and when dried +for flavouring. Strictly the plant is a perennial, but it is readily +grown as an annual. Sow in February or March in gentle heat, and in the +open ground a month later. The plants should be allowed a space often +inches or a foot each way. + +Marjoram, Sweet Knotted (_Origanum Majorana_).—This plant is used for +culinary purposes in the same way as the Pot Marjoram, and it is also +regarded as a tonic and stomachic. The most satisfactory mode of +cultivation is that of a half-hardy annual. Sow in March or April and +allow each plant a square foot of ground. + +Mint (_Mentha viridis_).—Known also as Spearmint. It must be grown from +divisions. Between the delicacy of fresh young green leaves and those +which have been dried with the utmost care there is so wide a +difference that the practice of forcing from November to May is fully +justified. This is easily accomplished by packing roots in a box and +keeping them moist in a temperature of 60°. Where this is impossible, +stems must be cut, bunched, and hung in a cool store for use during +winter and spring. Mint grows vigorously in damp soil, and the bed +should have occasional attention, to prevent plants from extending +beyond their proper boundary. To secure young and luxuriant growth a +fresh plantation should be made annually in February or March. If +allowed to occupy the same plot of land year after year the leaves +become small and the stems wiry. + +Parsley (_Carum Petroselinum_) will teach those who have eyes exactly +how it should be grown. There will appear here and there in a garden +stray or rogue Parsley plants. No matter how regularly the hoeing and +weeding may be done, a stray Parsley plant will occasionally appear +alone, perhaps in the midst of Lettuces, or Cauliflowers, or Onions. +When these rogues escape destruction they become superb plants, and the +gardener sometimes leaves them to enjoy the conditions they have +selected, and in which they evidently prosper. The lesson for the +cultivator is, that Parsley should have plenty of room from the very +first; and this lesson, we feel bound to say, cannot be too often +enforced upon young gardeners, for they are apt to sow Parsley far more +thickly than is wise, and to be injuriously slow and timid in thinning +the crop when the plants are crowding one another. + +Parsley, like many other good things, will grow almost anywhere and +anyhow, but to make a handsome crop a deep, rich, moist soil is +required. It attains to fine quality on a well-tilled clay, but the +kindly loam that suits almost every vegetable is adapted to produce +perfect Parsley, and every good garden should show a handsome sample, +for beauty is the first required qualification. To keep the house +fairly well supplied sowings should be made in February, May, and July. +The first of these will be in gentle heat. When large enough prick out +the plants into boxes, or on to a mild hot-bed, and transfer to the +open ground at the end of April, allowing each plant a space of one +foot each way. In the open, it is best to sow in lines one foot apart, +and thin out first to three inches, and finally to six inches, the +strongest of the seedlings being put out one foot apart. By following +this plan sufficient supplies for a small household may be obtained +from one annual sowing made in April. It should not be overlooked that +Parsley is indispensable to exhibitors of vegetables, especially as a +groundwork for collections, and due allowance for such calls must be +made in fixing the number and extent of the sowings. When the plant +pushes for seed it becomes useless, and had best be got rid of; but by +planting at various times in different places a sufficiency may be +expected to go through a second season without bolting, after which it +will be necessary to root them out and consign them to the +rubbish-heap. Parsley is often grown as an edging, but it is only in +large gardens that this can be done advantageously, and then a very +handsome edging is secured. In small gardens it is best to sow on a bed +in lines one foot apart, and thin out first to three inches, and +finally to six inches, the strongest of the thinnings being planted a +foot apart, to last over as proposed above. When Parsley has stood some +time it becomes coarse, but the young growth may be renewed by cutting +over; this operation being also useful to defer the flowering, which is +surely hastened by leaving the plants alone. For the winter supply a +late plantation made in a sheltered spot will usually suffice, for the +plant is very hardy; but it may be expedient sometimes to put old +frames over a piece worth keeping, or to protect during hard weather +with dry litter. A few plants lifted into five-inch pots and placed in +a cool house will often tide over a difficult period. In gathering, +care should be taken to pick separately the young leaves that are +nearly full grown, and to take only one or two from each plant. It +costs no more time to fill a basket by taking a leaf or two here and +there from a whole row than to strip two or three plants, and the +difference in the end will be considerable as regards the total produce +and quality of the crop. + +Pennyroyal (_Mentha Pulegium_) is a native perennial which must be +propagated by divisions, and this can be done either in spring or +autumn. The rows may be twelve or fifteen inches apart, but in the rows +the plants do well at a distance of eight inches. The taste for +Pennyroyal is by no means universal, but some persons like the tender +tops in culinary preparations. The belief in its supposed medicinal +virtues is slowly dying. + +Purslane (_Portulaca oleracea_).—This annual plant thrives best in a +sunny position. Seed should be sown from mid-April onwards to insure a +succession of young leaves and shoots which may be cooked as a +vegetable or eaten raw as a salad. Space the rows nine inches apart and +thin the plants to a distance of six inches. + +Rampion (_Campanula Rapunculus_).—Both leaves and roots are used in +winter salads; the roots are also boiled. If the seed be sown earlier +than the end of May the plants are liable to bolt. Choose a shady +situation where the soil is rich and light, and do not stint water. The +rows need not exceed six inches apart, and four inches in the rows will +be a sufficient space between plants. + +Rosemary (_Rosmarinus officinalis_).—A hardy evergreen shrub easily +grown from seed, the leaves of which are used for making Rosemary tea +for relieving headache. An essential oil is also obtained by +distillation. A dry, warm, sunny border suits the plant. Sow in April +and May. + +Rue (_Ruta graveolens_).—A hardy evergreen shrub, chiefly cultivated +for its medicinal qualities. The leaves are acrid, and emit a pungent +odour when handled. The plant is shrubby, and as it attains a height of +two or three feet it occupies a considerable space. Sow in April. + +Sage (_Salvia officinalis_).—Although Sage can be raised from seed with +a minimum of trouble, yet this is one of the few instances where it is +an advantage to propagate plants from a good stock. The difference will +be obvious to any gardener who will grow seedlings by the side of +propagated plants. Still, seedlings are often raised, and as annuals +the plants are quite satisfactory. Sow under glass in February and +March, and in open ground during April and May. Prick off the seedlings +into a nursery bed before transferring to final positions, in which +each plant should be allowed a space of fifteen inches. + +Savory, Summer (_Satureia hortensis_).—An aromatic seasoning and +flavouring herb, which must be raised annually from seed. Sow early in +April in drills one foot apart, and thin the plants to six or eight +inches in the rows. Cut the stems when in full flower, and tie in +bunches for winter use. + +Savory, Winter (_Satureia montana_).—A hardy dwarf evergreen which can +be propagated by cuttings; but it is more economically grown from seed +sown at the same time, and treated in the same manner, as Summer +Savory. + +Sorrel (_Rumex scutalus_).—The large-leaved or French Sorrel is not +only served as a separate dish, but is mingled with Spinach, and is +also used as an ingredient in soups, sauces, and salads. Leaves of the +finest quality are obtainable from plants a year old, and when the crop +has been gathered the ground may with advantage be utilised for some +other purpose. Light soil in fairly good heart suits the plant. The +seed should be sown in March or early April, in shallow drills six or +eight inches apart, and the seedlings must be thinned early, leaving +three or four inches between them in the rows. To keep the bed free +from weeds is the only attention necessary, unless an occasional +watering becomes imperative. In September the entire crop may be +transferred to fresh ground, allowing eighteen inches between the +plants, or part may be drawn and the remainder left at that distance. +In the following spring the flower-stems will begin to rise, and if +these are allowed to develop they reduce the size of the leaves and +seriously impair their quality; hence the heads should be pinched out +as fast as they are presented. + +Tarragon (_Artemisia Dracunculus_).—This aromatic herb is used for a +variety of purposes, but is most commonly employed for imparting its +powerful flavour to vinegar. The plant is a perennial, and must be +propagated by divisions in March or April, or by cuttings placed in +gentle heat in spring. Later in the year they will succeed under a +hand-glass in the open. Green leaves are preferable to those which have +been dried, and by a little management a succession of plants is easily +arranged. For winter use roots may be lifted in autumn and placed in +heat. Those who have no facilities for maintaining a supply of green +leaves rely on foliage cut in autumn and dried. + +Thyme, Common (_Thymus vulgaris_).—An aromatic herb, well known in +every garden, and in constant demand for the house. Seedlings are +easily raised from a sowing in April, or the plant can be grown from +division of the roots in spring. Thyme makes a very effective edging, +and is frequently employed for this purpose on dry, well-kept borders. + +Thyme, Lemon (_Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris_).—This plant cannot be grown +from seed; only by division of the roots in March or April. It is an +aromatic herb, generally regarded as indispensable in a well-ordered +garden. + +Wormwood (_Artemisia Absinthium_).—An intensely bitter herb, used for +medicinal purposes. The plant is a hardy perennial, and is usually +propagated in spring by taking cuttings or dividing the roots. + +HORSE-RADISH + +Cochlearia Armoracia + +This vegetable is highly prized as a condiment to roast beef, but as a +rule it is badly grown. The common practice is to consign it to some +neglected corner of the garden, where it struggles for existence, and +produces sticks which are almost worthless for the table. In the same +space a plentiful supply of large handsome sticks may be grown with as +little trouble as Carrots or Parsnips. Choose for the crop a piece of +good open ground, and in preparing it place a heavy dressing of rotten +manure quite at the bottom of each trench. Early in the year select +young straight roots from eight to twelve inches long, each having a +single crown, and plant them one foot apart each way. By the following +autumn these will become large, succulent sticks, which will put to +shame the ugly striplings grown under starving conditions. The roots +may be dug as required; but we do not advocate that method. It is +better practice to clear the whole bed at once, and store the produce +in sand for use when wanted. This plan should be repeated each year, +and a fresh piece of land ought always to be found for the crop. + +KALE—_see_ BORECOLE, _page 27_ + +KOHL RABI (KNOL KOHL) + +Brassica oleracea Caulo-rapa + +Kohl Rabi, or Knol Kohl, is comparatively little grown in this country, +because we can almost always command tender and tasty Turnips. On the +Continent it is otherwise. There Kohl Rabi may be seen in every market, +and on many a good table, where it proves a most acceptable vegetable. +For all ordinary purposes the green variety is better than the purple. +A small crop of this root should be annually grown in every garden. In +case of failure with Turnips, Kohl Rabi will take their place to tide +over an emergency. When. served it has the flavour of a Turnip with a +somewhat nutty tendency, and may be prepared for table in the same +manner. + +Kohl Rabi is cultivated in much the same way as Turnips. Seed may be +sown at any time from March to August in rows one and a half to two +feet apart. As soon as possible thin the seedlings to three inches +apart in the rows, and, as the leaves develop, to six inches apart. By +drawing every other plant some small roots may be obtained early, and +the remainder will be left to mature at twelve inches in the rows. The +seedlings may be transplanted, if desired. Keep the ground clean and +the surface open, but care should be taken not to damage the leaves, or +in the least degree to earth up the roots. Any animal that can eat a +Turnip will prefer a Kohl Rabi, and when substituted for the Turnip in +feeding cows, it does not affect the flavour of the milk. The plant is +hardy, and as a rule may stand, to be drawn as wanted, until the spring +is far advanced, when the remnant should be cleared off for the benefit +of the animals on the home farm, or be dug in as manure. + +LEEK + +Allium Porrum + +The leek is not so fully appreciated in the southern parts of England +as it is in the North, and in Scotland and Wales. It is a fine +vegetable where it is well understood, and when stewed in gravy there +is nothing of its class that can surpass it in flavour and +wholesomeness. One reason of its fame in Scotland and the colder parts +of Wales is its exceeding hardiness. The severest winters do not harm +the plant, and it may remain in the open ground until wanted, +occasioning no trouble for storage. + +Times of Sowing.—To obtain large handsome specimens of the finest +quality a start must be made in January or early February, and this +early sowing is imperative for the production of Leeks for exhibition, +as the roots must be given a longer season of growth than is generally +allowed for ordinary crops. It is usual to sow in pans or boxes of +moistened soil, placed in a temperature of about 55°. The seeds need +only a very light covering of fine soil. When the seedlings are about +two inches high transfer to shallow boxes of rich soil, spacing them +three inches apart each way, or the finest may be placed in pots of the +32-size, taking care not to break the one slender root on which the +plant depends at this stage. Grow on in the same temperature until +mid-March, when they may be transferred to a cold frame to undergo +progressive hardening in readiness for planting out at a favourable +opportunity in April. + +There may be three sowings of Leek made in the open ground in February, +March, and April, to insure a succession, and also to make good any +failures. But for most gardens one sowing about the middle of March +will be sufficient. From this sowing it will be an easy matter to +secure an early supply, a main crop, and a late crop, for they may be +transplanted from the seed-bed at a very early stage, and successive +thinnings will make several plantations; and finally, as many can be +left in the seed-bed to mature as will form a proper plantation. + +General Cultivation.—The Leek will grow in any soil, and when no +thicker than the finger is useful; indeed, in many places where the +soil is poor and the climate cold it rarely grows larger, but is, +nevertheless, greatly valued. A rich dry soil suits the plant well, and +when liberally grown it attains to a great size, and is very +attractive, with its silvery root and brilliant green top. The +economical course of management consists in thinning and planting as +opportunities occur, beginning as soon as the plants are six inches +high, and putting them in well-prepared ground, which should be +thoroughly watered previously, unless already softened by rain. The +distance for planting must depend upon the nature of the soil and the +requirements of the cultivator. For an average crop, eighteen inches +between the rows and six to nine inches between the plants is +sufficient; but to grow large Leeks, they must be allowed a space of +twelve to eighteen inches in the rows. In planting, first shorten the +leaves a little (and very little), then drive down the dibber, and put +the plant in as deep as the base of the leaves, and close in carefully +without pressure. Water liberally, occasionally stir the ground between +plants, and again cut off the tops of the leaves, when the roots will +grow to a large size. If the ground is dangerously damp or pasty, make +a bed for the crop with light rich soil, plant on the level and mould +up as the growth advances. On light land, however, it is advisable to +grow them in trenches, prepared as for Celery. The largest and whitest +should not be left to battle with storms, but those left in the +seed-bed will take no harm from winter weather, and will be useful when +the grandees are eaten. The finest roots that remain when winter sets +in may be taken up in good time and stored in dry sand, and will keep +for at least a month. Any that remain over in spring can readily be +turned to account. As the flower-stems rise nip them out; not one +should be left. The result of this practice will be the formation on +the roots of small roundish white bulbs, which make an excellent dish +when stewed in gravy, and may be used for any purpose in cookery for +which Onions or Shallots are employed. They are called ‘Leek Bulbs,’ +and are obtainable only in early summer. + +Blanching.—The edible part of the root should be blanched, and this may +be effected in various ways. Drain-pipes not less than two and a half +inches in diameter, and from twelve to fifteen inches in length, answer +well for large stems. Tubes of stiff brown paper are also very +serviceable. Drawing up the earth to the stem as growth develops is a +simple method of blanching, and the edible portion may easily be +increased according to the amount of earthing-up given. Perfect +blanching is of first importance when specimens are wanted for the +exhibition table, and a commencement must be made as soon as the plants +may be said to have thoroughly recovered from the effects of +transplanting. + +LETTUCE + +Lactuca sativa + +The lettuce is the king of salads, and as a cooked vegetable it has its +value; but as it does not compete with the Pea, the Asparagus, or the +Cauliflower, we need not make comparisons, but may proceed to the +consideration of its uses in the uncooked state. Scientific advisers on +diet and health esteem the Lettuce highly for its anti-scorbutic +properties, and especially for its wholesomeness as a corrective. It +supplies the blood with vegetable juices that are needful to accompany +flesh foods when cooked vegetables are unattainable. Our summers are +usually too brief and too cool to permit us to acquire a knowledge of +the real value of the Lettuce, but in Southern Europe and many parts of +the East it becomes a necessary of life, and those large red Lettuces +that are occasionally grown here as curiosities are prized above all +others because of their crisp coolness and refreshing flavour under a +burning sun. + +The numerous varieties may, for practical purposes, be grouped in two +classes—Cabbage and Cos Lettuces. They vary greatly in habit and are +adapted for different purposes, the first group being invaluable for +mixed salads at all seasons, but more especially in winter and early +spring; the second group is most serviceable in the summer season, and +is adapted for a simple kind of salad, the leaves being more crisp and +juicy. A certain number of the two classes should be grown in every +garden, both for their great value to appetite and health, and their +elegance on the table, whether plain or dressed. In the selection of +sorts, leading types should be kept in view. Some of the varieties +which have been introduced have no claim to a place in a good list, +because of their coarseness. Although they afford a great bulk of +blanched material, it is too often destitute of flavour, or altogether +objectionable. The best types are tender and delicately flavoured, +representing centuries of cultivation, and the sub varieties of these +types should retain their leading characteristics, though perhaps they +are more hardy and stand longer, and are therefore much to be desired. + +Preparation of the Soil.—The Lettuce requires a light, rich soil, but +almost any kind of soil may be so prepared as to insure a fair supply, +and in places where fine Cos Lettuces are not readily obtained, it may +be possible to grow excellent Cabbage varieties in place of them. A +tolerably good garden soil will answer for both classes, and fat stable +manure should be liberally used. The best way to prepare ground for the +summer crop is to select a piece that has been trenched, and go over it +again, laying in a good body of rough green manure, one spade deep, so +that the plant will be put on unmanured ground, but will reach the +manure at the very period when it is needed, by which time contact with +the earth will have rendered it sweet and mellow. By this mode of +procedure the finest growth is secured, and the plants stand well +without bolting, as they, are saved from the distress consequent on +continued dry weather. As regards drought, it must be said that the +red-leaved kinds stand remarkably well in a hot summer, and although +they do not rank high as table Lettuces in this country, were we to +experience a succession of roasting summers they would rise in repute +and be in great demand. Cabbage Lettuces bear drought fairly well, more +especially the diminutive section; but where water is available +Lettuces have as good a claim to a share of it in a dry, hot season, as +any crop in the garden. + +Blanching.—A first-class strain of White Cos Lettuce will produce +tender white hearts without being tied, and, as a rule, therefore, the +labour of tying may be saved. The section of which Sutton’s Superb +White Cos is the type may be said to produce better samples without +tying than with this imaginary aid to blanching. The market grower is +still accustomed to tie Lettuces because they are more easily packed +and travel better when tied, but when tying is practised it need not be +done until one or two days before the Lettuces are cut. The coarser +market kinds certainly are improved by tying, and in this case the +operation must be performed when the plants are quite dry, and not more +than ten days in advance of the day on which it is intended to pull +them. The Bath Cos must be tied always, and when well managed the heart +is white, with a pretty touch of pink in the centre. + +Spring-sown Lettuces may be forwarded under glass from January to +March, from which time sowings may be made successively in the open +ground. In any and every case the finest Lettuces are obtained by +sowing in the open ground, and leaving the plants to finish in the +seed-bed without being transplanted. It will, of course, occur to the +practical cultivator that the two systems may be combined, so as to +vary the time of turning in, and thus from a single sowing insuring a +longer succession than is possible by one system only. We will suppose +small sowings made of three or four sorts in January or early in +February, and put into a gentle heat to start them. A very little care +will keep them going nicely, and of course they must have light and air +to any extent commensurate with safety. When about three weeks old, it +will be advisable to prick these out into a bed of light rich earth in +frames; or if the season is backward, and they need a little more +nursing, prick them into large shallow boxes, containing two or three +inches of soil, which will be sufficient provided it consists in great +part of decayed manure, kept always moist enough for healthy growing. +The next step will be to plant them out about six inches apart, with a +view to draw a certain number as soon as they are large enough to be +useful, leaving the remainder at nine to twelve inches, taking care to +thin out in time to prevent any leaves overlapping. If Peas are being +grown under glass, a few plants of an early Cabbage variety may be put +out between the rows, or they may be pricked out on the borders of a +Peach-house, in either case spacing the plants nine inches apart. +Successive sowings made in February and March will be treated in the +same way, and will need less nursing. In planting out, it is important +to have the seedlings well hardened, for they are naturally susceptible +to wind and sunshine, and if suddenly exposed to either will be likely +to perish. Again, when first planted out their delicate leaves will +attract all the slugs and snails in the garden, and the discreet way of +acting is to regard a plantation of Lettuce as an extensive vermin +trap, and thus, knowing where the marauders are, to be ready to catch +and kill, or to destroy them by sprinklings of lime, salt, or soot, in +all cases being careful to keep these agents at a reasonable distance +from the plants. + +Sowings in the open ground from the end of March onwards should be +made, not on an ordinary seed-bed, but on a plot loaded with rich +manure at one spit deep, and the seed should be put in shallow drills +one foot apart. From the time the young plants are two inches high they +must be drawn freely for ‘Cutting Lettuce,’ or for planting out +elsewhere; this thinning to proceed until a sufficient crop remains to +finish off on the ground. The value of ‘Cutting Lettuce’ is better +understood on the Continent than in this country. The small tender +plants are in daily use, and appear in the salad bowl with Water Cress +and Corn Salad, delicately dressed with delicious flavourings. After +this brief digression it is necessary to add that a crowded Lettuce +crop is an encumbrance to the ground; and one of the evils of the best +system, that of sowing where the crop is to finish, is the tendency of +the cultivator to be timid in the thinning, which should be done with a +bold hand, and in good time. + +July and August Sowing.—From sowings made during these months the +supply of Lettuce from the open ground may be extended throughout the +autumn, and even into December or January should the weather prove +favourable. The main conditions essential to success are, the use of +quick-growing varieties, sowing in good soil where the heads are to +mature, and early and severe thinning. The thinnings may be +transplanted if required. + +Winter Lettuces are produced and provided for in various ways. In some +places Lettuces stand out the winter without covering, and turn in +early in the spring. But in other districts they seldom survive the +winter without protection, even when the sparrows spare them. The +summer sowings will afford supplies to a late season of the year, and +the crop that remains when frost sets in may be preserved with slight +and rough protection. But for the profitable production of Winter +Lettuces frames are a necessity, and care must be taken not to promote +a strong growth, for after a term of mild winter weather a sudden and +severe frost will probably annihilate those that are in a too thriving +condition. In the least likely places, however, it is well to have a +small plantation of Winter Lettuces in the open, and to give some rough +protection in bad times, as these often prove of great advantage, and +even outlive frame crops which have been allowed to get too forward by +the aid of warmth and a rich soil. + +For winter and spring use sowings should commence in August and be +continued, according to requirements, until the middle of October, +after which it is waste of time and seed to sow any more. The August +and September sowings may be made partly on an open border and partly +in frames, but the October sowings must be in frames only, for winter +may overtake them in the seed-leaf. The seedlings must in all cases be +thinned and pricked out as soon as large enough, and should be planted +in fine soil, free from recent manure, being carefully handled to avoid +needless check. Some should be planted in frames on beds of light soil +near the glass, at three inches apart, and when these meet they must be +thinned for the house as may be necessary: the remainder of the +thinnings may be put out on warm borders at six inches, and, if quite +convenient, a crop should be left in the seed-bed at six inches. From +the frames, the supplies will be ready in time to follow those from +late summer sowings, and thus through the winter until the frames are +cleared out for the work of the spring. The frame crop must have plenty +of air, and be kept as hardy as possible, but with moisture enough to +sustain a steady healthy growth. If roughly handled in the planting, or +a little starved in respect of moisture, the plants will rise from the +centre just when they ought to begin to turn in, and the first few days +of warm sunshine will start them in the wrong way. As to those wintered +out, there are many ways of protecting them, and when success has +crowned the effort there will be a crowded plant. It will be necessary, +therefore, to transplant at least half the crop by lifting every other +one. This must be done with care, as though they were worth a guinea +each. By transplanting early in March to a piece of rich light ground +in a warm spot, and doing the work neatly and smartly, the result will +be a valuable crop of early Summer Lettuce, while those that remain +will help through the spring. + +Forcing.—Lettuces do not force well; but as they are so constantly in +demand, it is a matter of importance to grow them in every possible +way. Nice promising plants from August and September sowings may be +selected from the frames, and planted on gentle hot-beds from November +to January, and will do well if tenderly lifted. The Commodore Nutt and +Golden Ball are the best of the Cabbage varieties for forcing. The Cos +varieties do not differ much as to forcing, none of them being well +adapted for the purpose; but the Superb White Cos may be brought to +fine condition by taking time enough, so as to make a very moderate +warmth suffice. On sunny days the heat should not exceed 75°; but 65° +is sufficient, with a night temperature of 45°to 50°. + +One other method of providing small delicate salading may be adopted to +meet emergencies. On the barrows of itinerant greengrocers in Paris the +thinnings of Lettuce crops form part of the general stock, and in this +country we do not sufficiently utilise this young tender stuff. But we +have now in view the use of Lettuce in a still earlier stage of growth. +By sowing rather thinly in boxes, kept under glass, a dense growth is +produced in a short time which can be cut in the same manner as +Mustard. For this purpose Sutton’s Winter Gathering is especially +valuable, or one of the best White Cos varieties should be sown. + +MAIZE and SUGAR CORN + +Zea Mays + +Maize is a tender plant of great beauty that may be grown as a table +vegetable, a forage plant, or a corn crop; but in the last-named +capacity it is rarely profitable in this country, owing to the brevity +of our summers. As an ornamental plant it is entitled to consideration, +and the more so because, while adorning the garden with its noble +outlines and splendid silken tufts, it will at the same time supply to +the table the green cobs that are so much valued when cooked and served +in the same manner as Asparagus. + +There is a simple rough and ready way of growing Maize, the first step +towards which is to prepare a deep rich soil, in a sunny and sheltered +situation. Late in April or early in May dibble the seeds two inches +deep, in rows two feet asunder and one foot apart in the rows. When the +plants have made some progress, remove every other one, these thinnings +to be destroyed or planted at discretion. Plants may also be started +under glass by sowing seeds in gentle heat in April. Prick off into +pots and gradually harden for transfer to the open. The crop will +almost take care of itself when the weather is warm enough to suit it. +But a deluge of water may be given during the hottest weather. In its +native country, and indeed wherever Maize thoroughly thrives, it is +dependent on frequent storms. + +MELON + +Cucumis Melo + +The popularity of this cool and delicious fruit has in recent years +been greatly enhanced by increased knowledge as to the best method of +treating the plant, and also by the introduction of several varieties +which are attractive in form and superb in flavour. It would shock a +modern Melon eater to be advised to cook a Melon, and flavour it with +vinegar and salt, as in the early days of English gardening. A good +Melon of the present day does not even need the addition of sugar; the +beauty, aroma, and flavour are such that it is not unusual for the +epicure to push the luscious Pine aside in order to enjoy this cool, +fresh, gratifying fruit that delights without cloying the palate. The +newer varieties are remarkable alike for fruitfulness and high quality, +and are somewhat hardier than the favourites of years gone by. + +The Melon is grown in much the same way as the Cucumber, but it differs +in requiring a firmer soil, a higher temperature, a much stronger +light, less water, and more air. It may be said that no man should +attempt to grow Melons until he has had some experience in growing +Cucumbers. As regards this point, the hard and fast line is useless, +but Cucumber-growing is certainly a good practical preparative for the +higher walk wherein the Melon is found. But Cucumbers are grown +advantageously all the winter through; Melons are not. The former are +eaten green, and the latter are eaten ripe; this makes all the +difference. Melons that are ripened between October and May are seldom +worth the trouble bestowed upon them; therefore we shall say nothing +about growing Melons in winter. + +The Frame Culture may with advantage begin about the middle of March by +the preparation of a good hot-bed. It is best to use a three-light +frame, as the heat will be more constant than with one of smaller size. +There should be six loads of stuff laid up for the bed, and the turning +should be sufficient to take out the fire, without materially reducing +the fermenting power. Begin a fortnight in advance of making up the +bed, and be careful at every stage to do things well, as advised for +the cultivation of frame Cucumbers. The best soil for Melons is a firm, +turfy loam, nine inches of which should be placed on top of the manure. +In a clay district, a certain amount of clay, disintegrated by frost, +may be chopped over with turfy loam from an old pasture. If the soil is +poor, decayed manure should be added, but the best possible Melons may +be grown in a fertile loam without the aid of manures or stimulants of +any kind. It is good practice to raise the plants in pots, and have +them strong enough to plant out as soon as the newly-made beds have +settled down to a steady temperature of about 80°, but below 70° will +be unsafe. If plants cannot be prepared in advance, seed must be sown +on the bed, and as a precaution against accidents and to permit of the +removal of those which show any sign of weakness, a sufficient number +of seeds should be sown to provide for contingencies. + +As regards the bed, it may be made once and for all at the time of +planting, a few days being allowed for warming the soil through. But we +much prefer to begin with smallish hillocks, or with a thin sharp ridge +raised so as almost to touch the lights, and to plant or sow on this +ridge, which can be added to from time to time as the plants require +more root room. The soil, coming fresh and fresh, sustains a vigorous +and healthy root action. The high ridge favours the production of stout +leaves, and the absorption by the soil of sun-heat is to the Melon of +the first importance. + +The practice of pruning Melons as if the plants were grown for fodder, +and might be chopped at for supplies of herbage, must be heartily +condemned. Melons should never be so crowded as to necessitate cutting +out, except in a quite trivial manner. A free and vigorous plant is +needed, and under skilful attention it will rarely happen that there is +a single leaf anywhere that can be spared. We will propose a practical +rule that we have followed in growing Melons for seed, of which a large +crop of the most perfect fruits is absolutely needful to insure a fair +return. The young plants are pinched when there are two rough leaves. +The result is two side shoots. These are allowed to produce six or +seven leaves, and are then pinched. After this, the plants are +permitted to run, and there is no more pinching or pruning until the +crop is visible. Then the fruits that are to remain must be selected, +and the shoots be pinched to one eye above each fruit, and only one +fruit should remain on a shoot; the others must be removed a few at a +time. All overgrowth must be guarded against, for crowded plants will +be comparatively worthless. It is not by rudely cutting out that +crowding is to be prevented, but by timely pinching out every shoot +that is likely to prove superfluous. From first to last there must be a +regular plant, and not a shoot should be allowed to grow that is not +wanted. Cutting out may produce canker, and crowding results in +sterility. + +As the Melon is required to ripen its fruits, and the Cucumber is not, +the treatment varies in view of this difference. It is not necessary to +fertilise the female flowers of the Cucumber, but it is certainly +desirable, if not absolutely necessary, to operate on those of the +Melon to insure a crop. The early morning, when the leaves are dry and +the sun is shining, is the proper time for this task, which is +described in a later paragraph. And the necessity for ripening the crop +marks another difference of management, for Cucumbers may carry many +fruits, and continue producing them until the plants are exhausted. But +the production of Melons must be limited to about half a dozen on each +plant, and good management requires that these should all ripen at the +same time, or nearly so, fully exposed to the sun, and with plenty of +ventilation. + +The requisite supply of water is an important matter. The plant should +never be dry at the root, and must have a light shower twice a day over +the leafage, but the moisture which is necessary for Cucumbers would be +excessive for Melons. It is a golden rule to grow Melons liberally, +keeping them sturdy by judicious air-giving, and to give them a little +extra watering just as they are coming into flower. Then, as the +flowers open, the watering at the root should be discontinued, and the +syringe should be used in the evening only at shutting up. If +discontinued entirely, red spider will appear, and the crop will be in +jeopardy, for that pest can be kept at a distance only by careful +regulation of atmospheric moisture. + +Melons in frames do better spread out on the beds than when trained on +trellises. When so grown, each fruit must be supported with a flat tile +or an inverted flower-pot, and means must be taken, by pegs or +otherwise, to prevent it from rolling off, for the twist of stem that +ensues may check the fruit or cause it to fall. When the fruits are as +large as the top joint of a man’s thumb, watering may be resumed, and +the syringe used twice a day until the fruit begins to change colour, +when there must be a return to the dry system, but with care to avoid +carrying it to a dangerous extreme. + +The Melon-house, heated by hot water, is adapted to supply fruit +earlier than is obtainable by frame culture, and is entirely superior +to any frame or pit. It appears, however, that in Melon-houses red +spider is more frequently seen than in frames heated by fermenting +material; but this point rests on management, and there can be nothing +more certain than that a reasonable employment of atmospheric humidity +may be made effectual for preventing and removing this pest. For the +convenient cultivation of the crop a lean-to or half-span is to be +preferred. The width should not exceed twelve feet, and ten to twelve +feet should be the utmost height of the roof. A service of pipes under +the bed will be required; but as Melons are not grown in winter, the +heating of a Melon-house is a simple affair, and, indeed, very much of +the cultivation as the summer advances will be carried on by the aid of +sun-heat only. The treatment of the plants in a house differs from the +frame management, because a trellis is employed, and the plants are +taken up the trellis without stopping until they nearly reach the top, +when the points are pinched out to promote the growth of side shoots. +In setting the fruit, the same principles prevail as in frame culture, +and it is advisable to ‘set’ the whole crop at once; if two or three +fruits obtain a good start, others that are set later will drop off. As +the fruits swell, support must be afforded to prevent any undue strain +on the vine, and this should be accomplished by nets specially made for +the purpose, or by suspending small flat boards of half-inch deal with +copper wires, each fruit resting on its board, until the cracking round +the stem gives warning that the fruit should be cut and placed in the +fruit room for a few days to complete the ripening for the table. In +houses of the kind described Melons and Cucumbers are occasionally +grown together. But although this may be done, and there are many +cultivators expert in the business, the practice cannot be recommended, +for ships that sail near the wind will come to grief some day. The +moisture and partial shade that suit the Cucumber do not suit the +Melon, and it is a poor compromise to make one end of the house shady +and moist, and the other end sunny and dry, to establish different +conditions with one atmosphere. A glass partition pretty well disposes +of the difficulty, because it is then possible to insure two +atmospheres suitable for two different operations. (_See also pages +157, 175, and 184._) + +The Pollination of Melons is performed by plucking the mature male +blooms, and after the removal of the petals, transferring the pollen of +the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. + +MERCURY + +Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus + +This perfectly hardy vegetable, known also by the name of Good King +Henry, is much grown in Lincolnshire. The leaves are used in the same +way as Spinach, and by earthing up the shoots they may be blanched as a +substitute for Asparagus. Sow the seeds during April in drills twelve +inches apart, and in due course thin the seedlings to one foot apart in +the rows. + +MUSHROOM + +Agaricus campestris + +The Mushroom has many friends among all classes, few benevolent +neutrals, and fewer still who are absolutely hostile to it as an +article of food. Those who find, or imagine they find, that this +delicacy does not agree with them, might possibly arrive at another +conclusion were a different mode of preparation adopted, or were the +consumption of it accompanied with a full persuasion that the Mushroom +is not merely delicious in flavour, but thoroughly wholesome, rich in +flesh-forming constituents, and, for a vegetable, possessed of more +than the average proportion of fat-formers and minerals. These facts +have been clearly established by chemical analysis, and may dispose of +timid misgivings, always supposing the true edible Mushroom, _Agaricus +campestris_, to be in question. + +Hitherto the artificial production of Mushrooms has never been equal to +the demand. Notwithstanding the enormous quantities sent to Covent +Garden by the growers around London, many tons are imported from +France, although it is generally admitted that they are neither so fine +nor so rich in flavour as those produced in this country. If, however, +the large centres of population are inadequately supplied, the scarcity +of Mushrooms is more keenly felt in the provinces, except, perhaps, in +certain favoured districts, where, after a few warm days in autumn, an +abundant crop may be gathered from the neighbouring pastures. Then +there is a brave show in the greengrocers’ windows for a brief period, +followed by entire dearth for weeks, and perhaps months. Obviously, +therefore, the demand, large as it already is, might be immensely +augmented by a commensurate supply. Yet it is not only possible but +quite easy to grow Mushrooms for the greater part of the year in very +small gardens, even when such gardens are entirely destitute of the +appliances usually considered necessary for the higher flights of +horticulture. The idea that Mushroom-growing is somewhat of a mystery, +forbidden to all but the strictly initiated, has happily been +dispelled. If we examine the conditions under which Mushrooms grow +freely in pastures, it is surprising how few and simple are the +elements of success. The crop generally appears in September, when +temperature is genial and fairly equable, with sufficient but not +superabundant moisture. The artificial production of Mushrooms in the +garden needs only reliable spawn, a sweet fertile bed, and some means +of maintaining a steady temperature under varying atmospheric +conditions. When the principles of Mushroom culture are thoroughly +mastered, they may be successfully applied in many different ways, and +they render the practical work easy and tolerably certain. + +The Spawn.—Although the Mushroom may be grown from seed, it is seldom +done except for strictly scientific purposes. The seeds are, however, +largely disseminated by Nature, and, having found a suitable home, they +germinate and produce an underground growth which at a hasty glance +resembles mildew. It really consists of white gossamer-like films, +which increase in number and distinctness as they develop, until they +push their way towards the surface, and give rise to the growth above +ground of the Mushroom. It follows that if we do not begin the +cultivation with seeds or spores, we must resort to the white films or +‘mycelium,’ that the growth of the plant may begin in Nature’s own way +below ground. What is called ‘Mushroom Spawn’ consists of certain +materials from the stable and the field, mixed and prepared in such a +manner as to favour the development of the mycelium of the Mushroom. +When dried, the cakes have the appearance of an unburnt brick. The +preparation of the spawn, though a very simple matter, demands the +skill and care of experienced operators. If the work is not well done, +the spawn will be of poor quality, and will yield a meagre crop, or +perhaps fail to produce a single Mushroom. Whether the cakes or bricks +are impregnated in the manner long practised in this country, or direct +from the tissue of the Mushroom, the culture remains the same. Provided +that the spawn is good, it has but to be broken into lumps of a +suitable size, and inserted in the bed, to impregnate the entire mass +with the necessary white films. These will take their time to collect +from the soil the alkalies and phosphates of which Mushrooms +principally consist, and this part of their work being done, the fruits +of their labours will be displayed above ground in the elegant and +sweet-smelling fungus that few human appetites can resist when it is +placed upon the table in the way that it deserves. Experts can readily +form an opinion as to whether a cake of Mushroom spawn is or is not in +a fit state for planting, and it will be a safe proceeding for the +amateur to buy from a Firm which has a large and constant sale; +otherwise, spawn may be purchased which was originally well made and +properly impregnated, but has lost its vitality through long keeping. + +Soil.—As to soil, it is well known that in a favourable autumn +Mushrooms abound in old rich pastures, and those who have command of +turf cut from a field of this character have only to stack the sods +grass side downwards for a year or two, and they will be in possession +of first-class material for Mushroom beds either in the open or under +cover. But small gardens, particularly in towns, have no such bank to +honour their drafts, and for these it becomes a question of buying a +load or two of turfy loam, or of making the soil of the garden answer, +perhaps with a preliminary enrichment by artificial manure. In the +general interests of the garden, the money for a limited quantity of +good loam would probably be well spent, independently of the question +of Mushrooms. No great bulk is necessary to cover a moderate-sized +Mushroom bed, but the quality of the soil will certainly have an +influence on the number and character of the Mushrooms. As a proof of +the exhaustive nature of the fungus, it almost invariably happens that +when the soil is used a second time it tends to diminish the size and +lower the quality of the crop. + +Manure.—In the management of the manure two essentials must be borne in +mind. Not only is nourishment for the plant required, but warmth also. +Probably a large proportion of the failures to grow Mushrooms might, if +all the facts were known, be traced to some defect in the manure +employed, or to some fault in its preparation. It must be rich in the +properties which encourage and support the development of Mushrooms, +absolutely free from the least objectionable odour, for the plant is +most fastidious in its demand for sweetness, although it can dispense +with light; and there must remain in the manure when made into a bed a +sufficient reserve of fermentation to insure prolonged heat, no matter +what the temperature of the atmosphere may be. Of course, the duration +of the heat will depend very much on the care with which it is +conserved by suitable covering and management. These requirements, +formidable as they may seem, can be insured with extreme ease; indeed, +the work is apparently far more difficult and complicated on paper than +it proves to be in practice. + +Preparation of the Bed.—The manure should come from stables occupied by +horses in good health, fed exclusively on hard food. The most suitable +store is the floor of a dry shed, or under some protection which will +prevent the loss of vital forces. Ammonia, for example, is readily +dissipated in the atmosphere or washed away by rain. The manure should +neither be allowed to become dust dry, nor to waste its power in +premature fermentation. Operations may be commenced with three or four +loads. A smaller quantity increases the difficulty of maintaining the +requisite temperature when fermentation begins to flag. The first +procedure is to make the manure into a high oblong heap well trodden +down. If the stuff be somewhat dry, a sprinkling of water over every +layer will be necessary. In a few days fermentation will make the heap +hot all through, and then it must be taken to pieces and remade, +putting all the outside portions into the interior, with the object of +insuring equal fermentation of the entire bulk. This process will have +to be repeated several times at intervals of three or four days until +the manure has not only been fermented but sweetened. When ready it +will be of a dark colour, soft, damp enough to be cohesive under +pressure, but not sufficiently damp to part with any of its moisture, +and almost odourless; at all events the odour will not be +objectionable, but may be suggestive of Mushrooms. Make a long bed, +having a base about four feet wide, and sides sloping to a ridge like +the roof of a house, with this difference—the narrow part of the ridge +is useless, and the top should, therefore, be rounded off when about a +foot across. Some growers prefer a circular bed of six or eight feet +diameter at the bottom and tapering towards a point, after the shape of +a military tent; but here again the point will be worthless, and the +bed may terminate abruptly. Either the long bed or the round heap +answers admirably. Tread the manure down compactly, and for the sake of +appearances endeavour to finish it off in a workmanlike manner. During +the first few days there will be a considerable rise in the +temperature, which will gradually subside, and when the plunging +thermometer shows that it has settled down to a comfortable condition +of about 80° the bed must be spawned. Experienced men can determine by +the sense of touch when the temperature is right, but the inexperienced +should rely entirely on the thermometer. The question will arise as to +the period of the year when operations should be commenced. Well, the +experts who grow Mushrooms in the open ground for market gather crops +almost the year round; but a beginner will do wisely to start under the +most favourable natural conditions, and these will be found about +midsummer, because the bed will commence bearing before winter creates +difficulty as to temperature. + +Spawning and After-management.—Break each cake of spawn into eight or +ten pieces, and force every piece gently a little way into the manure +at regular intervals of six to nine inches all over the bed, closing +the manure over and round each piece of spawn. The practice of +inserting spawn by means of the dibber is to be strongly condemned, for +it leaves smooth, hollow spaces which arrest the mycelium; and very +small pieces of spawn should be avoided because they generally result +in small Mushrooms. Immediately the spawning is completed, a thick and +even covering of clean straw or litter of some kind should be laid over +the bed, secured from wind by canvas, mats, hurdles, or in some other +way. From good spawn the films of mycelium will begin to extend within +a week. In the contrary case an examination of the pieces will show +that they have become darker than when put into the bed, which means +that they have perished. Then the question will arise as to whether the +bed or the spawn is at fault, and the former must either be spawned +again or broken up. Supposing the spawn to show signs of vitality, the +time has come for covering the bed with a layer of rather moist soil, +pressed lightly but firmly on to the manure with the spade or fork, so +that the earth will not slip down. At once restore the covering of +litter, &c., and wait patiently for about seven or eight weeks for the +crop. Meanwhile the plunging thermometer ought to be consulted daily. +Until the Mushrooms appear the instrument should not indicate less than +60°, and while in bearing not less than 55°. Experience proves that the +most violent alternations of temperature may be combated by regulating +the thickness of the covering. Although it may possibly be necessary to +resort to eighteen inches of litter or more during hard frost or the +prevalence of a cutting east wind, a much thinner covering will suffice +in milder weather. + +Should the temperature of the bed, through inexperience in the +management of it, sink below the point at which Mushrooms can grow, we +advise the exercise of a little patience. We have known several +instances of beds made in autumn producing no crop at the expected +time, but which have borne fairly in the following spring or summer. +But in the event of the first effort failing outright there is no great +loss. The manure, which is the most costly item, will still be +available for the garden, and an observant man will pretty well +understand in what respect he must amend his course of procedure. + +Water.—Moisture is of great consequence, for a dry Mushroom bed will +soon be barren also; but whenever water is given it must be applied +tepid and from a fine rose. To slop cold water over a Mushroom bed is +about as reasonable a procedure as putting ice into hot soup. Water is +best administered in the afternoon of a genial day, and should be +sufficient to saturate the bed. Immediately it is done the covering of +litter and canvas must be promptly restored to prevent the temperature +from being seriously lowered by rapid evaporation. A couple of stakes +driven from the crown to the bottom of the bed at the time of making up +the heap are useful as indicators of moisture, and may occasionally be +drawn out and examined. + +In gathering the crop, only a small portion of the bed should be +uncovered at a time. This should be the rule at all seasons, and the +strict observance of it will prevent a mistake in cold weather, for +then, if the bed is carelessly uncovered and much chilled, the crop +will come to an end, when perhaps it would, if properly handled, be at +high tide and full of profit. Another rule should be enforced, to this +effect, that every Mushroom must be taken out complete, and if the root +does not come with the stem, it must be dug out with a knife. Any +trifling with this rule will prove a costly mistake. The stem of a +Mushroom, if left in the ground, will produce nothing at all. But it +may attract flies, and it certainly will interfere with the movements +of the mycelium at that particular spot, and actually prevent the +production of any more Mushrooms. The old practitioners were accustomed +to leave the stem in the ground, and they were content with about +one-third of the crop now produced on beds that are, perhaps, not +better made than were theirs. But they had a notion about the powers of +the root which increased knowledge of the subject has shown to be +fallacious. + +In Pastures.—As already indicated, Mushrooms are often to be found in +abundance in well-stocked pastures during the late summer months, and +where favourable conditions exist it is an excellent plan to insert +pieces of spawn two inches deep in the turf in June and July. + +Turf Pits.—The facility with which Mushrooms may be raised under simple +methods is illustrated by the practice of growing them inside the turf +walls of cool pits. In the country turf walls are common, and they +offer the advantage of growing Mushrooms in addition to the purpose +they usually serve. After determining the size of the pit, and +accurately marking it on the ground, cut the turf into narrow strips, +say three or four inches wide, and of exactly eighteen inches length. +The strips should be closely laid, grass side downwards, across the +width of the walls—not longitudinally—except at the corners, where the +layers should cross each other. The front and back walls to be rather +above the required height, because the turf always scales down a +little, and the two ends must gradually rise from front to back. The +top layer may be right side up, when it will keep green for a long +time. As the work proceeds insert lumps of spawn at intervals in every +layer, about three or four inches from the inside edge. A wooden frame +will be requisite on the top to carry the glass lights. This structure +makes a useful cool pit and a Mushroom bed from which supplies may +sometimes be gathered for years. In the summer it will be necessary to +keep the walls moist by means of the syringe, or they will cease +bearing. + +Indoor Beds.—Mushrooms may be grown almost anywhere, evenly in a +cellar, or on the wall of a warm stable, provided only that the mode of +procedure is in a reasonable degree adapted to the requirements of the +fungus. Ordinary pits and frames are also serviceable, and many +gardeners obtain good crops in autumn by the simple process of +inserting a few lumps of spawn in a Cucumber or Melon bed while the +plants are still in bearing. Between spawning and cropping a period of +six or eight weeks usually elapses, so that if the plan just mentioned +be adopted, the spawn should be introduced in the height of summer, +both to insure it a warm bed and to allow time for the crop to mature +before the season runs out. Sheds and outhouses not only afford shelter +and space for beds on the floor, but the walls can be fitted with +shelves on which Mushrooms may be plentifully grown. In all cases the +shelves should be two feet apart vertically, and each shelf should have +a ledge nine inches deep. The walls of a house may be quickly and +cheaply fitted with woodwork for the purpose, but brick is so much +better than wood that whenever it is possible to employ brick it should +have the preference. As regards the ledges, they should be of stout +planking in any case, and should not be fixed, because of the necessity +for clearing the shelves and renewing the soil periodically. The +details of cultivation are the same within doors as without, but the +roof gives valuable protection, and helps to maintain the beds at a +suitable temperature. + +A proper Mushroom-house for production during winter should be heated +with hot water, and have an opaque roof. There is nothing so good for +the crop as a roof of thatch, but there are many objections to it, and +usually slate is employed. A double roof will pay for its extra cost by +promoting an equable temperature. A few side lights fitted with +shutters are necessary, as there should be a good light for working +purposes; but the crop does not need light, and a more steady +temperature can be maintained in a dark house than in one which has +several windows. The most convenient dimensions for a Mushroom-house +are: length, twenty-five feet; width, twelve feet; height at sides, six +feet, to allow of a bed on the floor, and a shelf four feet above it; +the ridge rising sufficiently for head room, and to shoot off water. +There will be room for a central path of four feet, and a bed of four +feet on each side. An earth or tile floor and a slate or stone shelf +will, with one four-inch flow and return pipe, complete the +arrangements. The less wood and the less concrete the better; there is +nothing like porous red tiles for the floor and stone for the shelves, +with loose planks on edge to keep up the soil, a few uprights being +sufficient to hold them in their places. + +Temperatures at every point are of great importance. The bed should be +near 80° when the spawn is inserted. The air temperature requisite to +the rising crop is 60° to 65°, which is the usual temperature of the +season when Mushrooms appear in pastures. While the bed is bearing a +temperature of 55° will suffice, but at any point below this minimum +production will be slow and may come to a stop. When giving water, take +care that it is at a temperature rather above than below that of the +bed. + +MUSTARD + +Sinapis alba, and S. nigra + +Mustard is much valued as a pungent salad, and for mixing in the bowl +it may take the place of Water Cress when the latter is not at command. +Mustard is often sown with Cress, but it is bad practice, for the two +plants do not grow at the same pace, and there is nothing gained by +mixing them. The proper sort for salading is the common White Mustard, +but Brown Mustard may be used for the purpose. Rape is employed for +market work, but should be shunned in the garden. As the crop is cut in +the seed leaf, it is necessary to sow often, but the frequency must be +regulated by the demand. Supplies may be kept up through the winter by +sowing in shallow boxes, which can be put into vineries, forcing pits, +and other odd places. Boxes answer admirably, as they can be placed on +the pipes if needful; they favour the complete cutting of a crop +without remainders, and this is of importance in the case of a salad +that runs out of use quickly and is so easily produced. From Lady Day +to Michaelmas Mustard may be sown on the open border with other +saladings, but as the summer advances a shady place must be found for +it. + + +ONION + +Allium Cepa + +The onion has the good fortune to be generally appreciated and well +grown almost everywhere. It enhances the flavour and digestibility of +many important articles of food that would fail to nourish us without +its aid, while to others it adds a zest that contributes alike to +enjoyment and health. Although there are but few difficulties to be +encountered in the cultivation of the Onion, there is a marked +difference between a well-grown crop and one under poor management. +There is, moreover, what may be termed a fine art department in Onion +culture, one result being special exhibitions, in which handsome bulbs +of great weight are brought forward in competition for the amusement +and edification of the sight-seeing public. Thus, when the first +principles have been mastered, there may be, for the earnest cultivator +of this useful root, many more things to be learned, and that may be +worth learning, alike for their interest and utility. + +Treatment of Soil.—The Onion can be grown on any kind of soil, but poor +land must be assisted by liberal manuring. A soil that will not produce +large Onions may produce small ones, and the smallest are acceptable +when no others are to be had. But for handsome bulbs and a heavy crop a +deep rich loam of a somewhat light texture is required, although an +adhesive loam, or even a clay, may be improved for the purpose; while +on a sandy soil excellent results may be obtained by good management, +especially in a wet season. In any case the soil must be well prepared +by deep digging, breaking the lumps, and laying up in ridges to be +disintegrated by the weather, and if needful its texture should be +amended, as far as possible, at the same time. A coat of clay may be +spread over a piece of sand, to be thoroughly incorporated with it; on +the other hand, where the staple is clay, the addition of sand will be +advantageous. All such corrective measures yield an adequate return if +prudently carried out, because it is possible to grow Onions from year +to year on the same ground; and thus in places where the soil is +decidedly unsuitable a plot may be specially prepared for Onions, and +if the first crop does not fully pay the cost, those that follow will +do so. But the plant is not fastidious, and it is easy work almost +anywhere to grow useful Onions. The first step in preparing land is to +make it loose and fine throughout, and as far as possible to do this +some time before the seed is sown. For sowing in spring, the beds +should be prepared in the rough before winter, and when the time comes +for levelling down and finishing, the top crust will be found well +pulverised, and in a kindly state to receive the seed. Stagnant +moisture is deadly to Onions, therefore swampy ground is most unfit; +but a sufficient degree of dryness for a summer crop may often be +secured by trenching, and leaving rather deep alleys between the beds +to carry off surface water during heavy rains. + +Manures.—As almost any soil will suit the Onion, so also will almost +any kind of manure, provided that it be not rank or offensive. This +strongly flavoured plant likes good but sweet living, and it is sheer +folly to load the ground for it with coarse and stimulating manures. +Yet it is often done, and the result is a stiff-necked generation of +bulbs that refuse to ripen, or there may be complete failure of the +crop through disease or plethora. But any fertiliser that is at hand, +whether from the pigstye, or the sweepings of poultry yards or pigeon +lofts, may be turned to account by the simple process of first making +it into a compost with fresh soil, and then digging it in some time in +advance of the season for sowing, and in reasonable but not excessive +quantity. All such aids to plant growth as guano, charcoal, and +well-rotted farmyard manure, may be used advantageously for the Onion +crop; but there are two materials of especial value, and costing least +of any, that are universally employed by large growers, both to help +the growth and prevent maggot and canker. These are lime and soot, +which are sown together when the ground is finally prepared for the +seed, and in quantity only sufficient to colour the ground. They +exercise a magical influence, and those who make money by growing +Onions take care to employ them as a necessary part of their business +routine. + +Spring-sown Onions require to be put on rich, mellow ground, the top +spit of which is of a somewhat fine texture, and at the time of sowing +almost dry. Having been well dug and manured in good time, the top spit +only should be dug over when it is finally made ready for the seed. The +work must be done with care, and the beds should be marked off in +breadths of four feet, with one-foot alleys between. Break all lumps +with the spade, and work the surface to a regular and finely crumbled +texture. Light soil should be trodden over to consolidate it, and then +the surface may be carefully touched with the rake to prepare it for +the seed. March and April are the usual months for spring sowing, +although in mild districts seed is sometimes put in as early as +January. Space the rows from nine to twelve inches apart, according to +the character of the sort and the size of bulbs required. The drills +must be drawn across the bed, at right angles to the alleys, for when +drawn the other way it is difficult to keep the ground properly weeded. +For a crop of Onions intended for storing, the seed should be only just +covered with fine earth taken from the alleys and thrown over, after +which the drills must be lightly trodden, the surface again touched +over with the rake, and if the soil is dry and works nicely, the +business may be finished by gently patting the bed all over with the +back of the spade. If the ground is damp or heavy, this final touch may +be omitted, as the Onion makes a weak grass that cannot easily push +through earth that is caked over it. But speaking generally, an Onion +bed newly sown should be quite smooth as if finished with a roller. To +the beginner this will appear a protracted and complicated story, but +the expert will attest that Onions require and will abundantly pay for +special management. + +As soon as possible after the crop is visible the ground between should +be delicately chopped over with the hoe to check the weeds that will +then be rising. Immediately the rows are defined a first thinning +should be made with a small hoe, care being taken to leave a good plant +on the ground. The next thinning will produce young Onions for +saladings, and this kind of thinning may be continued by removing +plants equally all over the bed to insure an even crop, the final +distance for bulbing being about six inches. Keep the hoe at work, for +if weeds are allowed to make way, the crop will be seriously injured. +When Onions are doing well they lift themselves up and _sit_ on the +earth, needing light and air upon their bulbs to the very axis whence +the roots diverge. If weeds spread amongst them the bulbs are robbed of +air and light, and their keeping properties are impaired. But in the +use of the hoe it is important not to loosen the ground or to draw any +earth towards the bulbs. When all the thinning has been done, and the +weeds are kept down, it will perhaps be observed that in places there +are clusters of bulbs fighting for a place and rising out of the ground +together as though enjoying the conflict. With almost any other kind of +plant this crowding would bode mischief, but with Onions it is not so. +Bulbs that grow in crowds and rise out of the ground will never be so +large as those that have plenty of room, but they will be of excellent +quality, and will keep better than any that have had ample space for +high development. It is almost a pity to touch these accidental +clusters, for the removal of a portion will perhaps loosen the ground, +and so spoil the character of those that are left. Really fine Onions +are rarely produced in loose ground, hence the necessity for care in +the use of the hoe. Watering is not often needed, and we may go so far +as to say that, in a general way, it is objectionable. But a long +drought on light land may put the crop in jeopardy, unless watering is +resorted to, in which case weak manure water will be beneficial. Still, +watering must be discontinued in good time, or it will prevent the +ripening of the bulbs, and if a sign is wanted the growth will afford +it, for from the time the bulbs have attained to a reasonable size the +water will do more harm than good. + +The harvesting of the crop requires as much care as the growing of it. +If all goes well, the bulbs will ripen naturally, and being drawn and +dried on the ground for a few days with their roots looking southward, +may be gathered up and topped and tailed or bunched as may be most +convenient. But there may be a little hesitation of the plant in +finishing growth, the result, perhaps, of cool moist weather, when dry +hot weather would be better. In this case the growth may be checked by +passing a rod (as the handle of a rake for example) over the bed to +bend down the tops. After this the tops will turn yellow, and the necks +will shrink, and advantage must be taken of fine weather to draw the +Onions and lay them out to dry. A gravel path or a dry shed fully open +to the sun will ripen them more completely than the bed on which they +have been grown; but large breadths of Onions must be ripened where +they grew, and experience teaches when they may be drawn with safety. + +As to keeping Onions, any dry, cool, airy place will answer. But if a +difficulty arises there is an easy way out of it, for Onions may be +hung in bunches on an open wall under the shelter of the eaves of any +building, and thus the outsides of barns and stables and cottages may +be converted into Onion stores, leaving the inside free for things that +are less able to take care of themselves. During severe frost they must +be taken down and piled up anywhere in a safe place, but may be put on +their hooks again when the weather softens, for a slight frost will not +harm them in the least, and the wall will keep them comparatively warm +and dry. When the best part of the crop has been bunched or roped, the +remainder may be thrown into a heap in a cool dry shed, and a few mats +put over them will prevent sprouting for at least three months. But +damp will start them into growth, and the only way to save them then is +to top and tail them again, and store as dry as possible in shallow +baskets or boxes. + +To grow large Onions the principles already explained must be carried +into practice in a more intense degree. It will be necessary to devote +extreme care to the preparation of the ground, and to give the plants +more time to mature; much greater space must also be allowed than is +usual for an ordinary crop. A good open position is imperative, and +where the soil is sufficiently deep, trenching is desirable. Shallow +soil ought to be thoroughly dug down to the last inch, and it will be +an advantage to break up the subsoil by pickaxe and fork. Cover the +subsoil with a thick layer of rotten manure before restoring the top +soil. For light land farmyard manure is excellent, but stable manure is +preferable for stiff cold soil. The usual time for trenching is October +or November, leaving the surface rough for disintegration during +winter. Nothing more need be done until the following March. Early in +that month break the soil down to a fine tilth and make it quite firm +by treading, or by rolling. Then broadcast over the plot a liberal +dressing of ground lime and soot, using about three pounds of each per +pole. Rake both in and leave the bed until the time arrives for +planting out: this will depend on the weather. + +Those who are accustomed to exhibit Onions at horticultural shows +almost invariably sow very early in the year under glass and in due +time transplant either from seed-pans or boxes. Of the two, properly +prepared boxes are usually found most convenient. The dimensions are +optional, but boxes about two feet long, one foot wide, and five inches +deep answer admirably. Several holes are perforated in the bottom to +insure efficient drainage. In every box place a thick layer of rotten +manure and then fill with thoroughly rich soil firmly pressed down, +leaving the surface quite smooth. One of the most successful growers +sows seed in rather small boxes early in January, and about the middle +of February the young Onions are pricked into boxes of the size we have +named. Only the finest and most promising seedlings are used. When +transferred, each Onion is allowed a space of three inches. The boxes +are kept in a greenhouse, as near the glass as possible, in a +temperature of about 50°. After sowing, very little water is given; but +when transplanted, finish with a sprinkling from a fine rose. Every +morning the plants will require spraying, but this must never be done +at night or damping off may follow. All through their time in the +greenhouse it is important to keep the boxes near the glass. Towards +the end of March remove to cold frames, keeping the lights rather close +for a few days, but gradually giving more air until the lights can be +taken off for a short time daily. + +In the south, about the middle of April is generally a suitable time +for transplanting to open beds, but in the event of a cold east wind +prevailing a brief delay is advisable and it is always an advantage to +plant out on a dull day or in showery weather. Space the rows twelve to +eighteen inches apart, and allow about fifteen inches between plants in +the rows. In the actual work of transplanting take care to insert only +the fibrous roots in the soil. To bury any portion of the stem results +in thickened necks. Finish with a dusting of soot over the entire bed, +including the Onions, and then well spray from a fine rose to settle +the soil around the roots. Until the plants are established continue +the spraying daily. After the middle of May renew the dusting of the +bed with soot and repeat at fortnightly intervals. About the 20th of +June feeding the Onions must commence. Peruvian guano and nitrate of +soda are both excellent, but these powerful artificials need using with +discretion, or the crop may be scorched instead of stimulated. It is +often safer to employ them in liquid form than dry, and ten ounces of +either, dissolved in ten gallons of water, will suffice for thirty +square yards. Use the two articles alternately at intervals of ten days +and cease at the end of July. If continued longer, some of the finest +bulbs will split. The use of soot can, however, be regularly +maintained. Should bulbs be required for autumn exhibition carefully +lift them a week or ten days in advance of the show date. This has the +effect of making the bulbs firm and reducing the size of the necks. + +Supposing an attack of mildew to occur, a dusting of flowers of sulphur +will prove effective if applied immediately the disease appears. +Sulphide of potassium, one ounce to a gallon of water, is also a +reliable remedy. + +July and August Sowing.—During these months seed of the quick-growing +types of Onion may be sown for producing an abundant supply of salading +and small bulbs during the autumn and onwards. It is important to thin +the plants early in order that those left standing in the rows may have +every opportunity of developing rapidly. + +Autumn-sown Onions, intended for use in the following summer, may also +be sown in the same way as advised for spring sowing. The time of +sowing is important, as the plants should be forward enough before +winter to be useful, but not so forward as to be in danger of injury +from severe frost. On well-drained ground all the sorts are hardy, and +the finest types, which are so much prized as household and market +Onions, may be sown in autumn as safely as any others. It may be well +in most places to sow a small plot: in the latter part of July, and to +make a large sowing of the best keeping sorts about the middle of +August—say, for the far north the first of the month, and for the far +south the very last day. Thin the plants in the rows and transplant the +thinnings, if required, as soon as weather permits in February. In +places where spring-sown Onions do not ripen in good time in +consequence of cold wet weather, autumn sowing may prove advantageous, +as the ripening will take place when the summer is at its best, and the +crop may be taken off before the season breaks down. + +Pickling Onions may be obtained by sowing any of the white or +straw-coloured varieties that are grown for keeping, but the large +sorts are quite unfit; the best are the Queen and Paris Silver-skin, as +they are very white when pickled and are moderately mild in flavour. A +piece of poor dry ground should be selected and made fine on the +surface. Sow in the month of April thickly, but evenly, cover lightly, +and roll or tread to give a firm seed-bed, and make a good finish. Be +careful to keep down weeds, and do not thin the crop at all. If sown +very shallow the bulbs will be round: if sown an inch deep they will be +oval or pear-shaped. + +The Potato or Underground Onion is not much grown in this country, in +consequence of occasional losses of the crop in severe winters. In the +South of England the rule as to growing it is to plant on the shortest +day, and take up on the longest. It requires a rich, deep soil, and to +be planted in rows twelve inches apart, the bulbs nine inches apart in +the row. Some cultivators earth them up like Potatoes, but we prefer to +let the bulbs rise into the light, even by the removal of the earth, so +as to form a basin around each, taking care, of course, not to lay bare +the roots in so doing. When the planted bulbs have put forth a good +head of leaves, they form clusters of bulbs around them, and the best +growth is made in full daylight, the bulbs sitting on and not in the +soil. + +The Onion Grub (_Phorbia cepetorum_) is often very troublesome to the +crop, especially in its early stages, and its presence may be known by +the grass becoming yellow and falling on the ground. It will then be +found that the white portion, which should become the bulb, has been +pierced to the centre by a fleshy, shining maggot, a quarter of an inch +in length, this being the larva of an ashy-coloured, ill-looking, +two-winged fly. Where this plague has acquired such a hold as to be a +serious nuisance, care should be taken to clear out all the old store +of Onions instantly upon a sufficiency of young Onions becoming +available in spring, and to burn them without hesitation. If left to +become garden waste in the usual way, these old Onions do much to +perpetuate and augment the plague. A regular use of lime and soot will +be found an effectual preventive. Other remedies are suggested in the +article on Onion Fly, Page 420. + +PARSLEY—_see_ HERBS, _page_ 68 + +PARSNIP + +Pastinaca sativa + +The Parsnip is one of the most profitable roots the earth produces. +Probably its sweet flavour imposes a limit on its usefulness, but bad +cooking doubtless has much to answer for, the people in our great towns +being, in too many instances, quite ignorant of the proper mode of +cooking this nourishing root. When cut in strips, slightly boiled and +served up almost crisp, it is a poor article for human food; but when +cooked whole in such a way as to appear on the table like a mass of +marrow, it is at once a digestible dainty and a substantial food that +the people might consume more largely than they do, to their advantage. + +The Parsnip requires only one special condition for its welfare, and +that is a piece of ground prepared for it by honest digging. Rich +ground it does not need, but the crop will certainly be the finer from +a deep fertile sandy loam than from a poor soil of any kind. But the +one great point is to trench the ground in autumn and lay it up rough +for the winter. Then at the very first opportunity in February or March +it can be levelled down and the seed sown, and the task got out of hand +before the rush of spring work comes on. A fine seed-bed should be +prepared either in one large piece or in four-feet strips, as may best +suit other arrangements. Sow in shallow drills eighteen inches apart, +dropping the seeds from the hand in twos and threes at a distance of +six inches apart; cover lightly, and touch over with the hoe or rake to +make a neat finish. As soon as the plants are visible, ply the hoe to +keep down weeds and thin the crop slightly to prevent crowding +anywhere. The thinning should be carried on from time to time until the +plants are a foot apart; or if the ground is strong and large roots are +required, they may be allowed fifteen inches. Good-quality roots may be +grown on the worst types of clay and on stony soils by boring holes and +filling them in with fine earth, in the manner described for Beet and +Carrot. The holes for Parsnip, however, should be rather larger and +deeper, with more space allowed between. It may be well to lift some of +the roots in November, a few spits of earth being removed first at one +end or corner of the piece to facilitate removal without breaking the +roots: these may be put aside for immediate use, but the general bulk +of the crop should remain in the ground to be dug as wanted, because +the Parsnip keeps better in the ground than out of it, and in the event +of severe frost a coat of rough litter will suffice to prevent injury. +Whatever remains over in the month of February should be lifted and +trimmed up and stored in the coolest place that can be found, a coat of +earth or sand being sufficient to protect the roots from the injurious +action of the atmosphere. + +GARDEN PEA + +Pisum sativum + +Thanks to the skill and enterprise of enthusiastic specialists, we have +now the wrinkled as well as the round-seeded Peas for the earliest +supply of this favourite vegetable. Not only can we commence the season +with a dish possessing the true marrowfat flavour, but in the new +maincrop varieties dwarf robust growth is combined with free-bearing +qualities, while the size of both Peas and pods has been increased +without in the smallest degree sacrificing flavour. On the contrary, +there has been a distinct and welcome advance in all the special +characteristics which have won for this vegetable its popular position, +and so highly is the crop esteemed that it is usually regarded as a +criterion by which the general management of a garden is judged. + +As an article of food Peas are the most nutritious of all vegetables, +rich in phosphates and alkalies, and the plant makes a heavy demand on +the soil, constituting what is termed an exhausting crop. For this +reason, and also because the time that elapses between sowing seed and +gathering the produce is very brief, it is imperative that the land +should be well prepared to enable the roots to ramify freely and +rapidly collect the food required by the plant. + +Treatment of Soil.—The soil for Peas must be rich, deep, and friable, +and should contain a notable proportion of calcareous matter. Old +gardens need to be refreshed with a dressing of lime occasionally, or +of lime rubbish from destroyed buildings, to compensate for the +consumption of calcareous matters by the various crops. For early Peas, +a warm dry sandy soil is to be preferred; for late sorts, and +especially for robust and productive varieties, a strong loam or a +well-tilled clay answers admirably, and it is wise to select plots that +were in the previous year occupied with Celery and other crops for +which the land was freely manured and much knocked about. Heavy +manuring is not needed for the earliest Peas, unless the soil is very +poor, but for the late supplies it will always pay to trench the +ground, and put a thick layer of rotten manure at the depth of the +first spit, in which the roots can find abundant nutriment about the +time when the pods are swelling. In all cases it is advisable not to +enrich in any special manner the top crust for Peas. When the young +plant finds the necessary supplies near at hand, the roots do not run +freely but are actually in danger of being poisoned; but when the plant +is fairly formed, and has entered upon the fruiting stage, the roots +may ramify in rich soil to advantage. Hence the desirability of growing +Peas in ground that was heavily manured and frequently stirred in the +previous year, and of putting a coat of rotten manure between the two +spits in trenching. As regards the last-named operation, it should be +remarked that as Peas require a somewhat fine tilth, the top spit +should be kept on the top where the second spit will prove lumpy, +pasty, or otherwise unkind. In this case bastard trenching will be +sufficient; but when the second spit may be brought up with safety, it +should be done for the sake of a fresh soil and a deep friable bed. The +use of wood ashes, well raked in immediately in advance of sowing, will +prove highly beneficial to the crop, for the Pea is a potash-loving +plant. + +Method of Sowing.—It will always pay to sow in flat drills about six +inches wide, but the V-shaped drill in which the seedlings are +generally crowded injuriously is not satisfactory. Two inches apart +each way is a useful distance for the seed, although more space may be +given for the robust-growing maincrop and late varieties. It is wise +policy, however, to sow liberally in case of losses through climatic +conditions, birds or mice; and if necessary superfluous plants can +always be withdrawn. The depth for the seed may vary from two to three +inches: the minimum for heavy ground and the maximum for light land. + +Early Crops (sown outdoors).—Early Peas are produced in many ways. The +simplest consists in sowing one or more of the quick-growing +round-seeded varieties in November, December, and January, on sloping +sheltered borders expressly prepared for the purpose, and provided with +reed hurdles to screen the plants from cutting winds. Where the +assaults of mice are to be apprehended, it is an excellent plan to soak +the seed in paraffin oil for twenty minutes, and then, having sown in +drills only one inch deep, heap over the drill three inches of fine +sand. If this cannot be done, sow in drills fully two inches deep, for +shallow sowing will not promote earliness, but it is likely to promote +weakness of the plant. It is not usual to grow any other crop with +first-early Peas, but the rows must be far enough apart to prevent them +from shading one another, and, if possible, let them run north and +south, that they may have an equable enjoyment of sunshine. As soon as +the plant is fairly out of the ground, dust carefully with soot, not +enough to choke the tender leaves, but just sufficient to render them +unpalatable to vermin. When they have made a growth of about three +inches, put short brushwood to support and shelter them, deferring the +taller sticks until they are required. Then fork the ground between, +taking care not to go too near to the plant. Sticks must be provided in +good time, lest the plant should be distressed, for not only do the +sticks give needful support, but they afford much shelter, as is the +case with the small brushwood supplied in the first instance. + +On fairly warm soils the first opportunity should be taken to sow one +of the early dwarf marrowfat varieties in the open ground. This may be +in February or early March, but it will be useless to make the attempt +until the ground is in a suitable condition. Sow in flat drills as +already described, the distance from row to row depending upon future +plans. If no intercropping is to be done, eighteen inches between the +rows will generally suffice for dwarf-growing Peas, but many gardeners +prefer to allow three feet and to take a crop of Spinach on the +intervening space. + +Early Crops (sown under glass.)—We now come to the modes of growing +early Peas by the aid of glass. The surest and simplest method is to +provide a sufficiency of grass turf cut from a short clean pasture or +common. There is in this case a risk of wireworm and black bot; but if +the turf is provided in good time and is laid up in the yard ready for +use, it will be searched by the small birds and pretty well cleansed of +the insect larvas that may have lurked in it when first removed. Lay +the turves out in a frame, grass side downwards, and give them a +soaking with water in which a very small quantity of salt has been +dissolved. This will cause the remaining bots and slugs to wriggle out, +and by means of a little patient labour they can be gathered and +destroyed. In January or February sow the seed rather thickly in lines +along the centre of each strip of turf, and cover with fine earth. By +keeping the frame closed a more regular sprouting of the seed will be +insured; but as soon as the plants rise, air must be given, and this +part of the business needs to be regulated in accordance with the +weather. All now depends on the cultivator, for, having a very large +command of conditions, it may be said that he is removed somewhat from +the sport of the elements, which wrecks many of our endeavours. There +are now three points to be kept in mind. In the first place, a short +stout slow-growing plant is wanted, for a tall lean fast-growing plant +will at the end of the story refuse to furnish the dish of Peas aimed +at. Give air and water judiciously, and protect from vermin and all +other enemies. A little dry lime or soot may be dusted over the plants +occasionally, but not sufficient to choke the leaves. All going well, +plant out in the month of March or April, on ground prepared for the +purpose, and laying the plant-bearing turves in strips, without any +disturbance whatever of the roots. Then earth them up with fine stuff +from between the rows, and put sticks to support and shelter them. + +A more troublesome, but often a safer method, is to raise plants in +pots, or in boxes about four and a half inches deep and pierced at the +bottom to insure free drainage. Old potting soil will answer admirably, +and the seeds should be put in one inch deep and two inches apart. +Place the pots or boxes in any light cool structure as near the +roof-glass as possible, but make no attempt to force either germination +or the growth of the plants. When fair weather permits, transfer to the +open in March or April. A good succession may be obtained by sowing a +first-early dwarf variety and a second-early kind simultaneously. + +Main crops require plenty of room, and that is really the chief point +in growing them. Supposing the ground has been well prepared as already +advised, the next matter of importance is the distance between the +rows. The market gardener is usually under some kind of compulsion to +sow Peas in solid pieces, just far enough apart for fair growth, and to +leave them to sprawl instead of being staked, because of the cost of +the proceeding. But the garden that supplies a household is not subject +to the severe conditions of competition, and Peas may be said to go to +the dinner table at retail and not at wholesale price. Moreover, high +quality is of importance, and here the domestic as distinguished from +the commercial gardener has an immense advantage, for well-grown +‘Garden Peas’ surpass in beauty and flavour the best market samples +procurable. To produce these fine Peas there must be plenty of space +allowed between the rows, and it will be found good practice to grow +Peas and early Potatoes on the same plot, and to put short sticks to +the Peas as soon as they are forward enough. By this management the +first top-growth of the Potatoes may be saved from late May frosts, and +the Peas will give double the crop of a crowded plantation. The general +sowings of Peas are made from March to June, but as regards the precise +time, seasons and climates must be considered. Nothing is gained by +sowing maincrop Peas so early as to subject the plant to a conflict +with frost. It should be understood that the finest sorts of Peas are +somewhat tender in constitution, and the wrinkled sorts are more tender +than the round. Hence, in any case, the wrinkled seeds should be sown +rather more thickly than the round to allow for losses; but +robust-habited Peas should never be sown so thickly as the early sorts, +for every plant needs room to branch and spread, and gather sunshine by +means of its leaves for the ultimate production of superb Green Peas. + +Late Crops.—To obtain Peas late in the season sowings may be made in +June and July, and preference should be given to quick-growing early +varieties. Ground from which early crops of Cauliflower, Carrot, +Cabbage, Potatoes, &c., have been removed is excellent for the purpose. +In dry weather thoroughly saturate the trench with water before sowing, +and keep the seedlings as cool as possible by screening them from the +sun. + +Staking.—This important operation must not be unduly deferred, as the +plants are never wholly satisfactory when once the stems have become +bent. Commence by carefully earthing up the rows as soon as the plants +are about three inches high. In the case of early varieties, light +bushy sticks of the required height, thinly placed on both sides of the +row, will suffice. Maincrop and late Peas, however, should first be +staked with bushy twigs about eighteen inches high, these to be +supplemented with sticks at least one foot taller than the variety +apparently needs, as most Peas exceed their recognised height in the +event of a wet season. No attempt should be made to construct an +impenetrable fence, for Peas need abundance of light and air. Neither +should the stakes be arched at the top, but placed leaning outwards. + +General Cultivation.—On the first appearance of the plant, a slight +dusting of lime or soot will render the rising buds distasteful to +slugs and sparrows, but this is more needful for the early than the +later crops. When maincrop Peas have grown two or three inches, they +are pretty safe against the small marauders. As the plant develops, +frequently stir the ground between the rows to keep down weeds and +check evaporation. The earthing up of the rows affords valuable +protection to the roots of the plants, and a light mulch of thoroughly +decayed manure will prove very helpful in a dry season. In the event of +prolonged dry weather, however, measures must be taken to supply water +in good time and in liberal quantity. The advantage of deep digging and +manuring between the two spits will now be discovered, for Peas thus +circumstanced will pass through the trial, even if not aided by water, +although much better with it; whereas similar sorts, in poor shallow +ground, will soon become hopelessly mildewed, and not even water will +save them. In giving water, it will be well to open a shallow trench, +distant about a foot from the rows on the shady side, and in this pour +the water so as to fill the trench; by this method water and labour +will be economised, and the plant will have the full benefit of the +operation. + +The enemies Of Peas are fewer in number than might be expected in the +case of so nutritive a plant. Against the weevil, the moth, and the +fly, we are comparatively powerless, and perhaps the safest course is +occasionally to dust the plants with lime or soot, in which case the +work must be carefully done, or the leaf growth will be checked, to the +injury of the crop. Light dustings will suffice to render the plant +unpalatable without interfering with its health, but a heavy careless +hand will do more harm than all the insects by loading the leafage with +obnoxious matter. The great enemy of the Pea crop is the sparrow, whose +depredations begin with the appearance of the plant, and are renewed +from the moment when the pods contain something worth having. Other +small birds haunt the ground, but the sparrow is the leader of the +gang. Ordinary frighteners used in the ordinary way are of little use; +the best are lines, to which at intervals white feathers, or strips of +white paper, or pieces of bright tin are attached. In the seedling +stage the plants may be protected by wire guards, and even strands of +black thread tied to short stakes will prove serviceable. We have found +the surest way to guard the crop against feathered plunderers is to +have work in hand on the plot, so as to keep up a constant bustle, and +this shows the wisdom of putting the rows at such a distance as will +allow the formation of Celery trenches between them. We want a crop to +come off, and another to be put on while the Peas are in bearing; and +early Potatoes, to be followed by Celery, may be suggested as a +rotation suitable in many instances. Even then the birds will have a +good time of it in the morning, unless the workmen are on the ground +early. However, on this delicate point, the ‘early bird’ that carries a +spade will have an advantage, because the sparrow is really a late +riser, and does not begin business until other birds have had +breakfast, and have finished at least one musical performance. + +Early Peas under Glass.—So greatly esteemed are Peas at table that in +many establishments the demand for them is not limited to supplies +obtainable from the open ground. Sowings may be made from mid-November +to mid-February, according to requirements and the extent of +accommodation available, from which the crops may be expected to mature +from mid-March onwards. Where a large glass-house, such as is used for +Tomatoes, &c., is at command, early Peas may be grown without prejudice +to other crops. Assuming that a good depth of soil exists, thoroughly +trench and prepare it as for outdoor Peas. Select a tall-growing +variety, of which there are a number that do well under glass. Sow in a +triple row, placing the seeds about three inches apart each way, and in +due course support the plants with stakes. A cool greenhouse or a frame +will also carry through an early crop of Peas, but for these structures +pots should be used and only dwarf-growing varieties sown. A ten-inch +pot will accommodate about eight seeds, and these should be planted one +and a half inches deep. When a few inches high insert a few bushy +stakes to carry the plants. A compost consisting of two parts loam, one +part leaf-soil or well-decayed manure, with a small quantity of wood +ashes, will suit Peas admirably. At no time is a forcing temperature +needed. From 50° to 55° at night, with a rise of about 10° by day will +suffice, and free ventilation must be given whenever possible with +safety. Apply water carefully, but never allow the roots to become +dust-dry. + +Peas for Exhibition.—On the exhibition table handsome well-grown Peas +always elicit unstinted admiration, and the magnificent pods of the +newer varieties are certainly worthy of the utmost praise bestowed upon +them. In all cases where vegetables are grown for competition at Shows +the amount of success achieved depends largely on the intensity of the +cultivation adopted, and in this respect no other subject will respond +more readily to liberal treatment than will the Garden Pea. Deep +digging, generous manuring, and copious watering during dry weather, in +the manner already described, are fundamental essentials. Another +matter of no less importance is the selection of suitable varieties. It +is now the general custom to start the early sorts in pots or boxes +under glass (see page 104), and some growers treat mid-season Peas in +the same manner. Of this system it may be said that it offers the +fullest opportunity of giving attention to the young plants and allows +of the strongest specimens being selected for transfer to open +quarters. The number of sowings will, of course, depend on individual +requirements. At the time of transplanting give each plant plenty of +space for development, and it will be well to stake the rows +immediately. Keep the plants under constant observation, especially +while quite young, when they are liable to destruction by garden foes. +The flowering should be limited to the fourth spike, and from the time +the pods appear assistance must be given in the form of liquid manure +or a mulching of well-rotted dung. Remove all lateral shoots and +promote vigorous healthy growth at every stage. Some means should be +adopted to prevent injury of any kind to the pods, which when gathered +should be well filled, carrying a fine bloom free from blemish. + +POTATO + +Solarium tuberosum + +The potato has been designated the ‘King of the Kitchen Garden,’ and +perhaps ‘the noble tuber’ should be so regarded. Of its importance as +an article of food it is impossible to speak too highly, and the +dietetic value of the Potato appears to be always advancing. The known +deficiency of flesh-forming constituents naturally associates this +vegetable with meat of various kinds, poultry, game and fish, and in +this proper association the root is probably capable of superseding all +other vegetable foods, bread alone excepted. It is far from our +intention to recommend abstention from Asparagus, Cauliflower, Peas, +and Sea Kale, and to regard Potatoes as a sufficient substitute for +these and other table delicacies; but it is well to remember that by +virtue of its starchy compounds the Potato has a direct tendency to +promote health and that freshness of complexion that generally prevails +among well-fed people. + +Forcing Potatoes.—The demand for new Potatoes exists long before the +first of the outdoor crops grown in this country can be lifted. To meet +such a demand is not a difficult matter where the necessary amount of +glass is at command, and by adopting the method here given supplies may +be maintained through the winter and onwards until the first-earlies +from the open ground are available. It may be said at once that for +culture in pots and boxes under glass a high temperature is neither +requisite nor desirable. Sturdy healthy growth is essential to the +formation of a crop of tubers, and if the plants be forced into an +attenuated condition the labour will have been in vain. Another matter +which needs to be specially mentioned is the choice of suitable +varieties. Only dwarf-growing kinds, thoroughly adapted for forcing, +should be considered. The date of planting will necessarily be +regulated by the time at which the crop is required. But a few weeks in +advance of planting, the sets should be sprouted by placing them on end +in shallow boxes, packed with damp light soil and stood near the light +in a slightly warm pit or house. When the sprouts are formed rub off +all but the two strongest. Good turfy loam, a small quantity of manure +from a spent Mushroom bed, and a little bone meal, will make an +excellent compost for the pots or boxes. Two sets will suffice for a +ten-inch or twelve-inch pot, or five tubers may be placed in a box +measuring about four feet long by one foot wide. Perfect drainage must +be insured. Plant the sets with care, taking up as much soil as +possible with the mass of fibrous roots which will have formed during +the period of sprouting. The operation may best be accomplished by only +half filling the pots or boxes at first, and when the sets are in +position add a further two inches or so of soil. Water sparingly, +especially at the outset. As root growth increases add more soil and +give the plants an occasional application of tepid liquid manure. At +all times avoid excessive heat, and if the crop can be finished off +gradually in a cool house so much the better. + +Where sufficient accommodation cannot be found for forcing Potatoes in +pots or boxes, an excellent crop may be grown on a gentle hot-bed made +up in the usual manner, and covered to a depth of at least nine inches +with a compost of three parts light loamy soil to one part leaf-mould. +After putting on the frame, keep the lights closed for a few days. But +a great heat is not wanted, and undue forcing at any stage will lead to +disaster. Partially exhausted hot-beds which have been used for other +purposes will also be found to answer admirably. Prepare the sets in +the manner already advised for pots and boxes, and plant them with the +least possible disturbance to the fibrous roots, three inches deep, in +rows fifteen inches apart, allowing twelve inches between the tubers in +the row. Whenever the weather is fine afford the plants a little air. +Increase the amount gradually as growth develops, but close the frames +early in the afternoon and give them the protection of mats at night +should the outside temperature be low. Water must be given in +moderation. It should always be of the same temperature as the frame, +and as soon as the haulm commences to turn yellow watering must be +discontinued. Little earthing up is needed, but when the foliage is +about nine inches high the addition of a small quantity of warm soil +along the rows will be beneficial. + +Early Potatoes outdoors are produced in various ways, and by very +simple appliances. The Potato will not bear the slightest touch of +frost. It is a sub-tropical plant, and will endure considerable heat if +at the same time it can enjoy light, air, and sufficient moisture. In +some respects it may be likened to the Lettuce, for if crowded or +overheated, or subjected to sudden checks, it bolts—in other words, it +produces plenty of top and no bottom, just as Lettuces similarly +treated produce flowering stems and no hearts. We will here propose a +very simple and practical procedure for obtaining a nice crop of +Potatoes in the month of June. This system fairly mastered, endless +modifications will be easily effected as circumstances and judgment may +suggest. + +Begin by selecting an early variety of the best quality. Some time +towards the end of January the sets are packed closely in shallow +boxes, one layer deep only, and these are placed in full daylight safe +from frost, but are not subjected to heat in any way. Having started +the sets into growth in full daylight, proceed with the preparation of +the ground. This must be light, warm, dry and rather rich without being +rank. If a length of wall is available, and perplexity arises +concerning suitable soil for the early Potatoes, seize all the sandy +loam that has been turned out of pots, and having mixed it with as much +leaf-mould and quite rotten manure as can be spared, lay the mixture in +a ridge at the foot of the wall. As walls do not anywhere run in such +lengths as to provide for all the early Potatoes that are wanted, +select a plot of ground lying warm and dry to the sun, and having +spread over it a liberal allowance of decayed manure, and any light +fertilising stuff, such as the red and black residue from the burning +of hedge clippings, turf, and weeds, dig this in. The ground being +ready, it is lined out in neat ridges two feet apart, running north and +south. These ridges must be shallow, rising not more than six inches +above the general level. On every fourth ridge sow early Peas that are +not likely to grow more than two and a half to three feet in height. +This being done in February, the land is ready for Potatoes in the +first week of March. Plant on the fine stuff laid up next the wall in +the first instance, and then on the ridges, where there is room for +three rows of Potatoes between every two rows of Peas. In the process +of planting, it will be advisable to rub off all the weak eyes and thin +out those on the crown, two or three strong eyes being quite +sufficient. This can easily be accomplished as the sets are laid into +their places in a shallow drill opened on the top of the ridge. The +sets may be put a foot apart, and have four inches of fine soil over +them. Prick the ground over with a fork between the rows, leaving it +quite rough, but regular and workmanlike. The Peas will soon be visible +and require attention. Draw a little fine earth to them, and stake them +carefully with small brushwood. If snails and slugs appear, give +dustings of lime or soot, and as soon as possible supply stakes of +sufficient height and strength to carry the crop. By the time the +Potatoes begin to show their shaws the Peas will constitute an +effectual shelter for them against east winds, and it will be found +that the morning frosts that are often so injurious to Potatoes in the +month of May will scarcely touch a crop that has the advantage of this +kind of protection. But to that alone it is not wise to trust. One +serious freezing that blackens the shaws will delay and diminish the +Potato crop. Therefore, as the green tops appear, cover them lightly +with fine earth from between the rows, and if necessary repeat this, +always allowing the leaves to see daylight. When a sharp frost occurs, +it will be advisable to cover the tops with a few inches of light dry +litter in just the same way that a bed of Radishes is protected. There +are many other methods of saving the rising shaws. A plank on edge on +the east side of a row will suffice to tide through an ordinary white +frost. Mats or reed hurdles laid on a few stout pegs will also answer +admirably, but care must be taken that the plant is not pressed down, +and the covering must be removed as soon as the danger is over. + +Crops grown under walls will be ready first, and those in the beds will +follow. Spaces between the trees of a fruit wall may be planted with +Potatoes, without injury to the trees. Those grown on the south face of +a good wall will be ready for table three weeks in advance of the +earliest crops in the open quarters. But east and west walls may be +made to contribute, and even north walls are useful, if planted a week +later and a little deeper. In all cases the sets should be put close to +the wall to enjoy the warmth, and dryness, and shelter it affords. When +the crop is lifted, the soil specially laid up for it may be taken +away, or scattered over the border. But the bulk will be so slight that +it will not matter much what becomes of it. However, in a new place +with a clay soil it may be prudent to remove it, and keep it ready as +an aid in seed sowing, for there are times and places where a little +fine stuff is worth a great deal to give a crop of some kind a proper +start. + +The main crop, as the source of supply for fully nine months out of +twelve, deserves every attention. Potatoes are grown with advantage on +so many diverse soils, and in such unlikely climates, that the plant +appears, on a casual consideration, to be altogether indifferent to its +surroundings. But it is none the less true that for the profitable +cultivation of this crop certain conditions are absolutely essential. +Among these an open situation and a well-drained soil are perhaps the +most important. To this might be added favourable weather, because a +bad season frustrates every hope and labour. Having an open situation +and a well-drained soil, it is much to be preferred that the soil be of +a deep, friable, loamy nature; in other words, a good medium soil, +suitable for deep tillage, but neither a decided clay, chalk nor sand. +A fertile sandy loam, lying well as regards sunshine and drainage, may +generally be considered a first-rate Potato soil, and excellent crops +have also been grown on thin soils overlying chalk and limestone. So +again, fine crops are often taken from poor sandy soils, and from +newly-broken bog and moss, as well as from clay lands that have had +some amount of tillage to form a friable top crust. But when all is +said the fact remains that the ideal soil for Potatoes is a deep mellow +loam, and, failing this, preference should be given to calcareous and +sandy soils rather than to clays or retentive soils of any kind. + +Manures.—Much prejudice prevails against manuring land for Potatoes, +and where the soil is good enough to yield a paying crop, it will be +prudent to do without manure, and to dress generously for the next crop +to restore the land to a reasonable state. Still it is the practice of +many of the most successful growers for the early market to manure for +this crop, and in some instances the manure is laid in the trenches at +the time of planting. Generally speaking, land intended for Potatoes +should be deeply dug, and, if needful, manured in the autumn. About +twenty to thirty cartloads of half-rotten manure per acre may be dug or +ploughed in to as great a depth as possible, consistent with the nature +of the subsoil and the appliances at command. In breaking up pasture +with the spade, bastard trenching will as a rule prove advantageous. +The land is lined off in two-feet breadths, and the top spit of the +first piece is removed to the last piece, which will often be close at +hand by the rule of working a certain distance down and back again. The +under spit will then be well broken up, the manure thrown in, and the +top spit of the next piece will be turned in turf downwards, making a +sandwich of the manure. If this is done in autumn, there will be a +mellow top crust produced by the spring, and the best way to plant will +be in trenches, unless the land is very light, in which case the dibber +may be used. + +As light lands are often profitably devoted to Potato culture, and more +especially to the production of first-class early Potatoes for the +markets, a few words on their management may be useful here. If on the +light land there is a choice of aspects, by all means select the plots +that slope to the south-west; the dangerous aspects are north and east. +The ground should be ploughed up in autumn and left rough, but it is +not economical to manure light lands in autumn. At the time of +planting, the furrows should be cut with a plough fitted with a double +mould-board, and the manure spread evenly along them previous to laying +in the sets. A good dressing per acre will consist of fifteen loads of +farmyard manure, and four cwt. of artificials, consisting of one and a +half cwt. of guano, two cwt. of superphosphate of lime, and half a cwt. +of muriate of potash. When the sets are laid, cover them by splitting +the ridges with the plough. If planted early in March, the crop should +come off in time for Turnips, for which the land will be in good heart, +and the seed should be sown as quickly as possible after the clearing +of the Potatoes. + +Preparing the Sets.—Among the many subjects that open out before us at +this point are the selection and preparation of the sets. Why are +smallish tubers chosen in one case and planted whole? and why, in +another case, are large tubers chosen and divided before planting, to +make two or more sets of each? Because there is a principle on which +sound practice rests, and it is this: the number of shoots starting +from any one growing point must be limited, for if they become crowded +the crop will be less than the land is capable of producing. Keeping +this principle in view, we proceed to remark, in the first place, that +carefully selected seed of moderate size may be planted as it comes +from the store without any preparation whatever, and with a fair +prospect of a profitable result. But certain varieties produce few +tubers of seed size, and when large they must be divided in such a +manner as to insure at least two eyes in each set. As a matter of fact, +profitable crops are grown in the most simple way; the seed is neither +sprouted nor disbudded, and with a well-made soil and a favourable +season, the return is ample, and all claims are satisfied. +Potato-growing entails much labour, therefore it is important to +distinguish between tasks that are necessary and those that are +optional. + +But where the time and strength can be found for first-class +cultivation, it should have the preference over the rough and ready +methods that are satisfactory on a large scale. Exhibitions of Potatoes +are for the most part sustained by persons who can find the time to do +things with extra care, and they have their reward in their crops as +well as in their prizes, for what may be styled Exhibition culture +consists simply in growing the crop in the best possible way, and +planting many sorts where in any other case a few would suffice. Here, +then, on the best plan, we begin with sets most carefully selected, to +insure true typical form and colour, and these are, some six weeks or +so before planting time, put in shallow boxes or baskets, one layer +deep, to sprout in full daylight, but quite safe from frost. In the +first instance a number of sprouts appear, and a large proportion are +rubbed off. The object of the cultivator is to secure two or three +stout, short shoots of a green or purple colour; the long white threads +that are often produced in the store being regarded as useless. When +large sets are employed, they are allowed to make three or four stout +shoots, and at the time of planting—not before—these sets are cut so as +to leave to each large piece only one or two good sprouts or sprits. As +for the smaller sets that are not to be divided, it is common practice +to cut a small piece off each of these at the time of planting to +facilitate the decay of the tuber when it has accomplished its work, +for having nourished the first growth the sooner it disappears the +better. Thus, with a little extra trouble, sound tubers have been +prepared for planting, and the main reasons for taking this extra +trouble are doubtless fully apparent. The best seed possible is wanted +and the most suitable soil; these two items forming the first chapter. +By sprouting the seed time is gained, which is equivalent to a +lengthening of the season. By limiting the number of shoots an excess +of foliage is prevented. Where the shoots are crowded the tubers will +not be crowded, a few strong shaws with all their leaves exposed to the +air and light being capable of producing better results than a large +number contending for air and light that are insufficient for them all. +And finally, by cutting the sets, whether to divide them, or simply to +hasten their decay, we insure that they will not reappear with the +young crop as useless, ugly things. + +Distances for Planting.—The distance at which the sets are planted is +of importance, for a crop too crowded will be of little value. But the +ground must be properly filled. By wasting only a small space in each +breadth, or in the spaces between the sets, the total crop will be many +bushels short of the possible quantity. The guiding principle must be +to allow to each plant ample room to spread, and absorb the air and +sunshine, in accordance with the character of the sort and the +condition of the soil. A considerable proportion of the losses from +disease may be traced to overcrowding in the first instance; the +tangled haulm being rendered weak through want of air, and then +becoming loaded with water, and in contact with wet ground, the disease +has made havoc where, had the management been founded on sound +principles, there might have been a vigorous healthy growth. If a doubt +arises, it is safer to allow too much rather than too little space, and +in this respect the exhibition growers are very liberal. They often +place the rows of strong-growing varieties four feet or more apart, and +allow a space of three and a half feet for the more moderate growers. +Even then, with good land, in a high state of preparation, the shaws +sometimes meet across the rows, and enormous crops are lifted. For a +very comprehensive rule, it may be said that the distance between the +rows may vary from fifteen inches for the early sorts of dwarf growth, +to forty inches for the vigorous-growing late sorts. Between these +measurements, for varieties producing medium haulm, a distance of +twenty-six to thirty-six inches may be allowed on good ground. The +distance between the sets must in like manner be determined by the +growth, and will range from nine inches for crops to be dug early, to +sixteen or twenty inches for the robust kinds. The medium maincrop +Potatoes will generally do well at twelve inches apart. Much, however, +depends on the season, for when great space is allowed, and the season +proves warm and showery, there will be more large tubers than the +grower will care for; whereas, if planted somewhat closer, the crop +would be smaller and more uniform in size. When planted, the tops of +the tubers should be about four inches below the surface. + +Time of Planting.—Under favourable conditions, it is possible to plant +on a warm dry border as early as mid-February in very sheltered +districts, but a supply of protecting material must be instantly +available in the event of severe weather. As a rule, however, the +opening of March is soon enough to plant early crops out of doors, +always provided that the soil is light and the situation warm, but +where these conditions do not exist it will be safer to wait until the +middle of the month. Maincrops may be got in at the end of March and +during April, according to the locality and the character of the soil. +In any case, it is better to defer the operation for a week or so than +to plant in heavy wet ground which quickly consolidates, making it +impervious to air and unsuitable for root-penetration. Excellent crops +may also be obtained by planting in July, preference being given to +quick-growing early varieties. Old tubers only should be used and these +must be carefully stored until required for planting. + +Method of Planting.—On light soils, in a sufficiently dry condition, +the dibber or planting stick may be used, but on heavy ground it is not +satisfactory. A good method of planting for all classes of soil is to +draw out a V-shaped drill of the requisite depth, place the sets into +position and lightly return the earth. Another plan which is largely +adopted is to insert the sets in the trenches as made during the +operation of digging the ground in spring, a garden line being used to +obtain the accurate alignment of the rows. + +General Cultivation.—As soon as the shaws appear the ground should be +hoed between the rows, and if there is any fear of frost the shaws +should be lightly moulded over. As the growth advances the crop must be +earthed up, care being exercised not to earth up too much, for, taking +six inches as the best average depth, the crop will be diminished by an +increase beyond this depth. One urgent reason for early work between +the rows is that a prosperous crop will soon put a stop to it. The +moment it becomes likely that the shaws will be bruised by traffic +between the rows they must be left to finish their course in their own +way, because the formation of tubers below will be in the ratio of the +healthy growth above ground. The Potato may be said to be manufactured +out of sunshine and alkaline salts. The green leaves constitute the +machinery of the manufacture, for which the solar light from above, and +the potash, phosphate of lime, phosphate of magnesia, and phosphoric +acid from below are the raw materials. + +Change of Ground and Seed.—In common with all other crops, the Potato +needs as often as possible a fresh soil, and a renewal of seed from +some distant source. The need for a change of soil is made apparent by +an analysis of the root, which contains large proportions of potash, +phosphorus, and sulphur, with smaller proportions of magnesia and lime, +without which the plant cannot prosper. A succession of heavy crops of +Potatoes on the same land may be said to take from the soil its +available potash and phosphates, and this crop will not, like some +others, take soda instead of potash when the last-named alkali runs +short. Here then is a chemical reason for change of soil. Another +reason is found in the history of the species of fungi that prey on the +Potato when its growth is checked by heavy rains and a low temperature. +These leave their spores in the soil, like wolves hiding in ambush, to +destroy the next crop. They are powerless to attack any other crop; +therefore a suitable rotation gives them time to die out and leave the +land clean as regards the _Phytophthora_ and other parasites that +destroy Potato crops. The necessity for an occasional change of seed +rests on old experience, and should scarcely need enforcing. One word +may be said here by way of explanation, and it is this: the seed house +that aims to put a good article in the market adopts measures which +altogether differ from those followed by the majority of persons who +have not been trained to the business. It is a common experience to +find that those who save their own seed from year to year have as a +result a constantly declining strain, so that every year the growth is +weaker, less true, and less profitable. It is so all through, but is +especially the case with Potatoes. We do not say that all who save +their own seed act unwisely, for some are most expert in the business. +But we do say that seed saving is not learned in a day, and many who +think they save shillings when they save seeds, actually lose pounds by +burdening themselves with a bad article. The art of ‘roguing’—the +elimination of plants which are untrue to type—is but one part of the +seed-saving process. There is the proper storing, the selecting and +sorting operations, to which eyes and hands must be trained, and there +must be no scruple about the sacrifice of false, immature or diseased +samples. The point we have in view is to advise the Potato grower to be +sure of his seed, and when a doubt arises as to the purity and +healthiness of the sample at command, it may be remembered that the +seed merchant practises methods of purgation for insuring perfectly +true stocks, while by growing in many different districts, and on +diverse soils, he can furnish an admirable change of seed for any +description of land. + +The Potato Disease.—The culture of Potatoes cannot be dismissed without +allusion to the destructive fungus which is never absent in dry +seasons, and in wet summers does its deadly work on a vast scale. +Scientific men have acquainted us with the history of the Potato +fungus, and this may eventually result in as efficient a remedy as that +which renewed the vineyards of France. Such a remedy for the Potato +murrain has yet to be discovered. Meanwhile, we must continue to resist +the foe with the plough, spade, draining tool, and above all with a +wise selection of sorts. It is an acknowledged fact that many Potatoes +that have been cultivated for a long time appear to have lost their +vigour, and are liable to succumb to the disease; but several kinds +that have been raised from seed in recent years possess a constitution +which almost defies the virulent assaults of the _Phytophthora +infestans_. Since the introduction of Sutton’s Magnum Bonum Potato +there has been a disposition to believe in ‘Disease-proof Potatoes.’ +There is no such thing absolutely, and perhaps there never will be, any +more than there is a disease-proof wheat, or dog, or horse, or man. But +some varieties of Potatoes are known to be more susceptible to the +ravages of disease than others, and it has been one of our aims to +secure seedlings which combine the highest cropping and table qualities +with the least tendency to succumb in seasons when conditions favour +the spread of the fungus. Scientific men have not yet explained why the +varieties differ in this respect, but practical men have discovered +that initial vigour of growth is the main defence against the plague, +and as the growing of a good Potato costs no more than the growing of a +poor variety, the cultivator should bestow his care on the very best he +can obtain. A little extra cost for seed in the first instance is as +nothing to the multiplied chances of success a good variety carries +with it. To sum up this subject, then, we say that disease may be +avoided in the early crops by cultivating sorts which may be lifted +before the plague generally appears; and on soils which will not +produce an early crop, only such varieties should be grown for the main +crops as have been proved to be most capable of standing uninjured +until late in the season. Let there be a dry, warm bed, sufficient +food, the fullest exposure to the life-giving powers of light, and +conditions favourable to early ripening. + +The Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes (_Synchytrium endobioticum_, +Percival) is dealt with in the chapter on ‘The Fungus Pests of certain +Garden Plants.’ + +PUMPKIN—_see_ GOURD, _page 63_ + +RADISH + +Raphanus sativus + +The Radish is often badly grown through being sown too thickly, or on +lumpy ground, or in places not favourable to quick vegetation. Radishes +grown slowly become tough, pungent and worthless. On the other hand, +those which are grown quickly on rich, mellow ground are attractive in +appearance, delicate in flavour, and as digestible as any salad in +common use. It should be understood that earliness is of the very first +importance, and that large Radishes are never wanted. To insure a quick +growth and a handsome sample the ground must not only be good, but +finely broken up. + +Frame Culture.—For the earliest crops it is advisable to make a +semi-hot-bed, by removing a portion of the surface soil, and laying +down about two-feet depth of half-rotten stable manure, on which spread +four inches of fine earth, and then cover with frames. Sow the seed +thinly, and put on the lights. When the plants appear, give air at +every opportunity to keep the growth dwarf, and cover with mats during +frost, always taking care to uncover as often as possible to give +light, for if the tops are drawn the roots will be of little account. +Where the plants are crowded, thin them, allowing every plant just room +enough to spread out its top without overlapping its neighbour. Sowings +made in this way in December, January, and February will supply an +abundance of beautiful Radishes in early spring, when they are greatly +valued. To follow the outdoor crops frame culture will again be +necessary in autumn. + +Outdoor Culture.—The second crop (which in many gardens will be the +first) may be sown on warm, dry borders in February. Within a few days +after sowing, collect a quantity of dry litter, and lay it up in a shed +ready for use. It happens often that we have warm, bright weather in +February, and the Radishes start quickly and make good progress, and +then may come a severe frost, when the litter must be spread as lightly +as possible, three or four inches thick. These open-ground sowings will +bear cold well, but they should not be allowed to get frozen, and +therefore semi-hot-beds may be employed. If time and materials appear +excessive for such a purpose, it should be remembered that this is a +capital way of preparing for the next crop, whatever it may be, and is +a particularly good method of preparing for Peas that are to be sown in +the month of April, by which time the earliest sown Radishes will be +off the ground. Successive sowings should be made from March to +September in the coolest place that can be found for them, and the +usual practice of four-feet beds will answer very well. In many gardens +sufficient supplies of Radishes are obtained by sowing in the alleys +between seed-beds, but care must be taken that this plan does not +interfere with the proper work of hoeing, weeding, thinning, &c. When +seed is sown on light soils a moderate firming with the back of the +spade may be desirable, but generally speaking it is sufficient to +cover the seed lightly, and so leave it. To thin the crop early is, +however, of great importance, no matter how wasteful the process may +seem, for wherever the plants are crowded they will make large useless +tops, and small worthless roots, and prove altogether unprofitable. For +the earliest sowings we have choice of many sorts, round, oval, and +long; but the long Radishes are not well adapted for late sowing, +whereas the round and oval sorts stand pretty well in hot weather, if +on good ground in a cool situation, with the help of a slight amount of +shade. As the year advances we return to the practice recommended for +the earliest crops. + +Winter Radishes.—These large-growing kinds are much prized by those who +use them in winter in the preparation of salads. Seed may be sown in +the open from June to August, in drills nine inches apart, and the +plants thinned to six inches in the rows. The roots may be left in the +ground and dug as required, or taken up and stored in sand. These +Radishes may also be cooked in the same manner as Turnips and they make +an excellent dish. + +RHUBARB + +Rheum hybridum + +RHUBARB is so much valued that we need not recommend it. There are some +remarkably fine sorts in cultivation, adapted for early work, +main-crop, and late use. + +Although an accommodating plant, Rhubarb requires for profitable +production a rich deep soil, well worked, and heavily dressed with +rotten manure, and a situation remote from trees, but in some degree +sheltered. It will be observed that the markets are supplied from +sheltered alluvial soils, that have been much cultivated, and kept in +high condition by abundant manuring. On the other hand, the coarser +kinds will make a free and early growth on a damp clay, if sheltered +from the east winds that so often damage early spring vegetation. The +shortest way to establish a plantation is to purchase selected roots of +first-class named varieties, and plant them in one long row, three to +four feet apart, or in a bed or compartment four feet apart each way. +The smaller kinds will do very well at two and a half feet each way, +but for large-growing sorts this would be injuriously close. Plant with +the top bud two inches deep, tread in moderately firm, then lightly +prick the ground over, and so leave it. Rhubarb may be planted at any +time in spring or autumn but of the two the spring is preferable. In +any case where a special cultivation is determined on, it will be found +that bone manure has a wonderful effect on the growth of Rhubarb. + +It is not sufficient to say that the plantation must be kept free from +weeds, but the plant should be allowed to make one whole season’s +growth before a single stalk is pulled. And the pulling in the second +season, and every season thereafter, should be moderate and careful, +for every leaf removed weakens the plant, and it must be allowed-time +to regain strength for the next season. Some people know not when to +leave off pulling Rhubarb, but appear unwilling to cease until there is +none to pull; and it is a pity this should happen, especially as after +the delicate supplies of early spring are past, Rhubarb is a +comparatively poor thing, and to ruin a plantation to get stalks for +wine is great folly. For wine-making a special plantation should be +made, from which not one stick should be taken for table use. The +summer stalks will then be of a suitable character. + +Rhubarb is easily forced in any place where there is a moderate warmth, +and it is only needful to pack the roots in boxes with moss or any +light soil, or even rough litter. The roots will push into any moist +material and find sufficient food. If entirely exposed to the light, +forced Rhubarb has a full colour; but the quality is better, and the +colour quite sufficient, if it is forced in the dark; hence when put +under the stage in a greenhouse, or any other place where there is a +fair share of daylight, it is well to put an empty box or barrel over +to promote a certain degree of blanching. + +When raising Rhubarb from seed sow in spring in light soil, and the +young plants should have frame culture until strong enough to plant +out. If a great number are grown, they should all be kept in pots until +the end of the season, and then the common-looking and unpromising +plants should be destroyed, reserving the others for planting out in +the following spring. A new type of Rhubarb which is readily raised +from seed will remain in bearing continuously if put out on good ground +and given protection during severe winter weather. Seed of this strain +should be sown in March or April, in pots or boxes placed in a cold +frame. Plant out the seedlings in May and these will generally yield +sticks in the autumn. Seed may also be sown in the open ground in +spring. + +SALADS + +Although the art of making Salads is to some extent understood in this +country, it must be admitted that much has yet to be learned from the +masters of Continental cookery, who utilise more plants than are +commonly used on this side of the Channel, and who impart to their +Salads an endless variety of flavourings. Here, however, we are only +concerned with the plants that are, or should be, in requisition for +the Salad-bowl at different seasons of the year. But it will not be +irrelevant to allude to the fact, admitted by medical men of high +reputation, that the appetite for fresh, crisp, uncooked vegetables is +a really healthy craving, and that free indulgence in Salads is a means +of supplying the human frame with important elements of plant-life. In +the process of cooking, certain minerals, such as salts of potash, are +abstracted from vegetables, while in Salads they are available, and +contribute both to the enjoyment and the benefit of the consumer. + +Our present object is to offer a reminder of the plants that must be +grown in order to supply such a variety of Salads as will fairly meet +the requirements of a generous table during the changing seasons of the +year. The culture of all the following subjects will be found under +their proper headings. + +Beet.—For its distinct flavour and splendid colour Beet is highly +valued as a component of Salads. As the roots are easily stored they +are available for several months after the growing season has passed. + +Celeriac is much used in French Salads, and some appreciation is now +shown for it in this country. The roots or bulbs are trimmed, washed, +and cooked in the same manner as Beet. + +Celery.—This delicious Salad is in such general favour that no comment +on its virtues is necessary. + +Chervil.—The curled is far handsomer than the common variety, and is +available for garnishing as well as for Salads. + +Chicory.—The common Chicory (_Barbe de Capucin_) and the Brussels +variety (_Witloof_) have attained to great popularity. Both are +agreeable and wholesome, and a supply should be maintained from October +to May. + +Chives find acceptance at times when the stronger flavour of Onion is +inadmissible. + +Corn Salad.—The leaves should be gathered separately in the same manner +as they are collected from Spinach. + +Cress should be in continual readiness almost or entirely through the +year. + +Cucumber.—Everybody appreciates the value of this fruit, which is +almost startling in its crisp coolness. + +Dandelion.—The cultivated forms of this familiar plant are increasingly +grown for use in the Salad-bowl. + +Endive has a distinct flavour which is highly appreciated; and in +winter the plant occupies the important position that Lettuce fills in +summer and autumn. + +Lettuce.—All the Cabbage varieties are in great demand for Salads, +because they readily assimilate the dressing. But for delicious +crispness the Cos varieties cannot fail to maintain their position of +assured popularity. + +Mustard needs only to be named. Like Cress, it is in continuous demand. + +Nasturtium.—A few flowers may always be employed to garnish a Salad, +for they are true Salad plants, and may be eaten with safety by those +who choose to eat them. + +Onion imparts life to every Salad that contains it; but for the sake of +the modest people who do not fail to appreciate the advantage of its +presence, although they scruple to avow their love, there must be +discretion in determining the proportion. + +Purslane.—The leaves and shoots are used for Salads, and the former +should be gathered while quite young. + +Radish finds a place on the tables of the opulent and of the humblest +cottager. + +Rampion.—The fleshy roots are employed in Salads in the natural state, +and also when cooked. + +Salsify is commonly known as ‘Vegetable Oyster,’ and is an excellent +component of a Salad. The roots may also be allowed to put forth leaves +in the dark to furnish blanched material. + +Shallot.—A delicate substitute for Onion. + +Sorrel possesses a piquant flavour that can be used by the skilful with +most agreeable results. + +Tomato has fought its way to popularity in this country, and now holds +a commanding position. + +Water Cress.—When the tender tops can be had they are seldom allowed to +be absent from first-class Salads. + +SALSIFY + +Tragopogon porrifolius + +Salsify may be sown from the end of March to May, but two sowings will +in most cases be sufficient. Drill the seed in rows fifteen inches +apart and one inch deep. Thin from time to time until the plants stand +nine, ten, or in an extreme case twelve, inches apart. In ordinary soil +nine inches will be sufficient. Hoe between frequently, but do not use +a fork or spade anywhere near the crop, for the loosening of the ground +will cause the roots to branch. + +A deep sandy soil with a coat of manure put in the bottom of the trench +will produce fine roots of Salsify. But there should be no recent +manure within fifteen inches of the surface, or the roots will be +forked and ugly. In a soil that produces handsome roots naturally the +preparation may consist in a good digging only, but generally speaking +the more liberal routine will give a better result. + +In November dig a portion of the crop and store in sand, and lift +further supplies as required. Some roots may be left to furnish Chards +in spring. These are the flowering-shoots which rise green and tender, +and must be cut when not more than five or six inches long. They are +dressed and served in the same way as Asparagus. + +Salsify is a root of high quality, the growing of which is generally +considered a test of a gardener’s skill. Perhaps the after-dressing and +serving of Salsify may be a test of the skill of the cook, but upon +that point we will not insist. It is a less troublesome root than +Scorzonera, and superior to it in beauty and flavour—in fact, it is +often dressed and served as ‘Vegetable Oyster,’ having somewhat the +flavour of the favourite bivalve. + +Salsify roots require to be prepared for use by scraping them, and then +steeping in water containing a little lemon juice or vinegar. They are +boiled until tender, and served with white sauce. To prepare them as +the ‘Vegetable Oyster’ the roots are first boiled and allowed to get +cold, then cut in slices and quickly fried in butter to a light golden +brown, being dusted with salt and white pepper while cooking. Serve +with crisped Parsley and sauce made with butter, flour, and the liquor +from tinned or fresh oysters. + +SAVOY—_see page 38_ + +SCORZONERA + +Scorzonera hispanica + +Scorzonera is not much grown in this country, but as it is prized on +the Continent, it might be introduced to many English tables with +advantage. The main point in the cultivation is to obtain large clean +roots, for carelessly grown samples will be small, forked, and fibrous. +Trench a piece of ground, and mix a good dressing of half-rotten manure +with the bottom spit, taking care that there is none in the top spit. +Make a nice seed-bed, and sow in the month of March in shallow drills +fifteen inches apart, and as the plants advance thin them until they +stand a foot apart in the drill. Keep the crop clean, and it will be +fit for use in September. Lift as wanted in the same manner as +Parsnips. Seed may also be sown in April and May. + +To cook the roots they must first be scalded, then scraped and thrown +into water in which there are a few drops of lemon juice. Let them +remain half an hour; boil in salted water in the same way as Carrots +until quite tender, and serve with white sauce. If left to get cold +they can be sliced and fried in butter to make a good side dish. + +SEA KALE + +Crambe maritima + +Many persons prefer Sea Kale to Asparagus, but the two differ so widely +in flavour and general character that no comparison between them is +possible. On two points, however, the advantage certainly rests with +Sea Kale. It can be more easily grown, and, regarded solely as an +article of food, it is the more profitable crop. This comparison has +therefore a practical bearing. In forming a new garden, and in cases +where it may not be possible to grow both these esculents +satisfactorily, Sea Kale should have attention first, as a thing that +will require but a small investment, and that will surely pay its way, +with quick returns, to the general advantage of the household. + +Outdoor Culture.—Sea Kale requires strong ground, fully exposed to the +sun, and enriched with any good manure, that from the stable being +undoubtedly the best. The most satisfactory way to begin is with +well-grown roots, as they make a return at once with the least +imaginable trouble. Let the ground be well dug two spits deep, and put +a coat of manure between; or if it is a good substantial loam, plant +without manure, and the results will be excellent. As the thriving +plant covers a considerable space, and there must be a certain amount +of traffic on the ground to manage it, there should be one row in the +centre of a four-feet bed, with a broad alley on one side; or, better +still, mark out a ten-feet space, with a three-feet alley on each side, +and in this space plant three rows two and a half feet apart, and the +roots one and a half to two feet apart. The planting may be done at any +time after the leaves have fallen, late in autumn, and during winter +and early spring. On warm, dry ground, winter planting answers +perfectly, and enables the gardener to complete the task, for there is +always enough to do in the spring months. But on damp ground and in +exposed situations the best time to plant is the month of March. Put +down the line, and open a trench one foot deep; plant the roots with +their crowns two inches below the surface, filling in and treading +firmly as each trench is planted. The precaution may be taken to pare +off all the pointed prominent buds on each crown, as this will prevent +the rise of flower-stems; but if this is neglected, the cultivator must +take care to cut out all the flowering-shoots that appear, for the +production of flowers will prove detrimental to the crop of Sea Kale in +the following season. Our custom, when a plantation has been thus made, +is to grow another crop with it the first season. The ground between +the rows is marked out in narrow strips, and lightly forked over, and +if a coat of rotten manure can be spared it is pricked in, and a neat +seed-bed is made of every strip, eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. +On this prepared bed sow Onions, Lettuces, and other light crops, and +as the Sea Kale advances take care to remove whatever would interfere +with their expansion, for the stolen crop should not stand in the way +of that intended for permanent occupation. A crop of early Cauliflower, +small Cabbage, or even Potatoes, may be taken, in which case there will +be room for only one row alternately with each row of Kale, and perhaps +one row also in the alleys. + +The growth of the Kale should be promoted by all legitimate means, and +in high summer it will take water, liquid manure, and mulchings of rich +stuff, to almost any extent, with advantage. The irrigation that suits +the Kale will probably also suit the stolen crop, but irrigation is not +good for Onions or Potatoes; where these crops are grown care must be +exercised to bestow the fluid on the Sea Kale only. + +As the leaves decay in autumn they should be removed, and the ground +kept thoroughly clean. When finally cleaned up, let it be forked over, +but with care not to put the tool too near the plants; and if manure is +plentiful, lay down a coat for a finish, or fork it in at the general +clear up. There should now commence a systematic saving of clean +leaves. Mere vegetable rubbish is not to be thought of. Proceed to +cover the ground with leaves in heaps or ridges sufficient to make a +coat finally of about one foot deep, or say nine inches at the very +least. If there is any store of rough planking on the premises, let the +planks be laid on the ridges of leaves on whichever side the prevailing +wind may be. This will prevent the leaves being blown away, and the +planks will be handy for the next stage in the business. + +At the turn of the year put the planks on edge by driving posts down in +any rough way that will hold them firmly for a brief season, and then +spread the leaves equally. If there are not sufficient leaves to cover +the bed for the requisite thickness, raise a good heap over each crown, +and sprinkle a little earth to keep the heap together. But a better +mode of procedure is to have a sufficiency of Sea Kale pots with +movable covers, or in place of these large flower-pots, or old boxes. +Put these over the crowns, and then heap the leaves over and around, +and the preliminaries are completed. A very early growth will be the +result, and the quality will be finer than that of forced Sea Kale. +Uncover occasionally to see how the crop goes on, remembering that +perfect darkness is needed to blanch it completely, and to produce a +plump and delicate sample. Cut close over, taking a small portion of +the woody part of the crown, and when all the growth of a crown is +taken, remove the pot or box, but leave a thin coat of leaves on the +cut crown to protect it, as at the time of cutting Sea Kale keen east +winds are prevalent, and it is unfair to the plants to expose them +suddenly. When the crop has been taken, remove the leaves and the +planks, and dig in between the rows a thick coat of fat manure. The +growth will be too strong now for a stolen crop, and will so continue +for many years. After the crop has been secured, each crown will throw +out a number of buds or shoots. These should all be removed except two +or three of the strongest, which will form the crowns for cutting in +the following year. At the same time take away any small blanched +shoots that may have been left because they were too small or +insignificant for table use. This proceeding will prevent the +production of flower-stems, which is injurious to the plant, and there +never need be any fear that the crop will be diminished, because plenty +of buds around the crowns, that do not show themselves in the first +instance, will come forward in due time. + +Forcing.—It is so easy to force Sea Kale that the cultivator may safely +be left to his own devices. But it will be well, perhaps, to say that +perfect darkness is requisite, and the temperature should not exceed +60° at any time, this being the maximum figure. A rise above 60° will +produce a thin or wiry sample. It is sufficient to begin with a +temperature of 45°, and to rise no higher than 55°, to insure a really +creditable growth. The market growers are not very particular as to +temperature, but then they do not eat the crop, or know much of it +after it has left their hands. With the gardener in a domestic +establishment the case is different; and we venture to advise young +men—to whom book advice is often valuable as entailing no +obligations—that Sea Kale slowly forced may be nearly as good as that +grown under pots in the open without any heat at all; better it cannot +be. Any spare pits or odd places may be made use of for this crop, +provided only that the heat is not too great. Pack the roots in mould +or leaves, or even half-rotten manure, and shut them up to exclude +light, and the crop will be ready in five or six weeks, unless forcing +is commenced very early, in which case seven weeks at least must be +allowed from the time of planting to that of the first cutting. Roots +that have been lifted for forcing should be thrown away when the crop +has been secured, but roots forced in the open ground suffer so little +by the process that they may be forced for several years in succession +ere it becomes necessary to renew the plantation, provided, of course, +that the work is well done. The outdoor forcing is accomplished in the +way described for growing the crop, with the aid of leaves only, but +with certain differences. In the first place, care must be taken to let +the plants feel the cold, but at the same time to prevent the ground +becoming frozen. A touch of frost will render them more ready to grow +when the cultivator brings his persuasions to bear by heaping hot +manure over the pots, and covering the bed with a thick coat of the +same. This is all that can be done, but it is sufficient. In cases +where leaves and other suitable materials are not available, good Sea +Kale may be grown by simply raising over each crown a heap of sand or +sifted coal ashes, provided some clean material be interposed to keep +the sand or ashes from actual contact with the plant. When this heap +begins to crack at the top it will be worth while to examine it at the +bottom, when there will be found a fine head of blanched Sea Kale, and +the mound will have served its purpose. + +To grow Sea Kale from seed is a simple matter enough, but there is a +loss of a year as compared with growing it from roots. The ground +should be rich and well worked, and the seed sown in March or April in +drills one foot asunder if for planting out, or in patches about two +and a half feet apart each way if to remain. It is believed by many +that Sea Kale should stand where sown, and we admit that analogies are +in favour of the proposal. But every year such fine produce is obtained +from transplanted roots that we have not the courage to condemn a +course of procedure which may not be theoretically correct. The fact +is, the root is tough and enduring, and suffers but little by moderate +exposure to the atmosphere if handled in a reasonable manner. But to +return to the seeds: they sprout quickly, and, soon after, the plants +make rapid progress. Let them have liberal culture, keep them +scrupulously clean, and thin in good time. If quite convenient, give a +light sprinkling of salt occasionally in the summer: they will enjoy +it, and the leaves will not be injured in the least. + +SHALLOT + +Allium ascalonicum + +The old-fashioned mode of culture is to plant on the shortest, and lift +the crop on the longest, day; but that is only applicable to the milder +parts of the country. As a rule, spring is the best time for planting, +and it should be done as early as the ground can be got into working +order—certainly not later than the middle of April. The soil should be +in a friable condition, and it must be trodden firmly, after the manner +usual for an Onion bed. Merely press the bulbs into the soil to keep +them in position, and put them in rows one foot apart, and nine inches +apart in the rows. They should not be earthed up, but, on the contrary, +when approaching maturity the soil should be drawn away so as to expose +the bulbs, for this facilitates the ripening process. + +To store the roots for any length of time it will be necessary to have +them well ripened, and this point demands consideration. If dry weather +could be insured for harvesting the crop, it might be allowed to finish +in the ground; but as this cannot be relied on, it is a wise precaution +to lift the crop on some suitable opportunity before it is quite ready, +and allow the ripening to be completed in a protected airy place. + +SPINACH + +Spinacia oleracea + +Spinach plays an important part in the economy of the dinner table. +There are unfortunate beings who cannot eat it, for they describe it as +bitter, sooty, and nauseous. Probably an equal number of persons +entertain a very high opinion as to its value. The rest of mankind +proclaim it a wholesome, savoury, and acceptable vegetable. Spinach +will grow anywhere and anyhow; but some little management is needed to +keep up a constant supply of large, dark green leaves, that when +properly cooked will be rich in flavour as the result of good +cultivation. To produce first-class Spinach a well-tilled rich loam is +needed, but a capital sample may be grown on clay that has been some +time in cultivation. + +Summer Spinach.—The early sowings of Round or Summer Spinach should be +in a sheltered situation, but not directly shaded. Sow in drills twelve +to fifteen inches apart, and one inch deep, beginning in January, +although the first sowing may fail, and continue to sow about every +fortnight until the middle of May. The earliest sowing should be on dry +ground, but the later sowings will do well on damp soil with a little +shade from the midday sun. It is important to thin the crop early, as +it should not be in the least drawn. This is the only essential point +in securing a fine growth, for if the plant cannot spread from the +beginning it will never become luxuriant, and will soon run up to seed. +Thin at first to six inches, and if large enough for use, send the +thinnings into the house. Before the leaves overlap thin finally to +twelve inches. Every plant will cover the space, and it will suffice to +take the largest leaves, two or three only from each plant, and thus a +basket may be filled in a few minutes with really fine Spinach. + +As the heat of the summer increases, the crop will be inclined to bolt. +The starved plant will bolt first; the plant in rich moist soil, with +plenty of room to spread, will be more leisurely about it, and will +give time for the production of a succession crop to take its place. +The sowings from May to July should be small and numerous, and on rich +moist land, to be aided, if needful, with water. In many gardens there +is a sufficient variety of vegetables after the middle of June to +render it unnecessary to keep up the supplies of Spinach, and it is +best to dispense with it, if possible, during July and August. + +Winter Spinach.—The sowing of Winter Spinach should commence in July, +and be continued until the end of September, subject to the +capabilities of the place. In gardens near towns, where the land is at +all heavy, it is generally useless to sow after August, as the autumnal +fogs are likely to destroy a plant that is only just out of the +seed-leaf. But in favoured localities, with a warm soil and a soft air, +seed may be sown up to the very end of the year with but little risk of +loss. The winter crops are sometimes sown broadcast, but drilling is to +be preferred, and the rows may be twelve to fifteen inches apart. Thin +at first to three inches, and afterwards to six inches, and leave them +at this distance, for Winter Spinach may be a little crowded with +advantage, because the weather and the black bot will now and then +remove a plant. Should ground vermin claim attention, the best way to +proceed will be to scratch shallow furrows very near the plants, taking +care not to injure them. This may be done with the hoe, but if time can +be spared it will be better to do it with a short pointed stick, having +at hand, as the work progresses, a vessel into which to throw the grubs +as they come to light when the earth is disturbed. Where small birds +are in sufficient numbers, they will observe the disturbance of the +earth, and diligently search for the grubs at hours when the cultivator +is no longer on the search himself. + +The July sowings will be useful in the autumn and throughout the +winter, as the weather may determine; the later sowings will be useful +in spring. Plants may be drawn where they can be spared to make room +for the remainder, but leaves only should be taken when the plant is +large enough to supply them. When symptoms of bolting become visible in +the spring, cut the plants over at the collar, and at once prepare the +ground for another crop. + +New Zealand Spinach (_Tetragonia expansa_).—Gardeners are only too well +acquainted with the difficulty of maintaining an unbroken supply of +true Spinach during the burning summer months. But the weather which +makes it almost impossible to produce a satisfactory crop of _Spinacia +oleracea_ brings New Zealand Spinach to perfection. The latter is +prized by some persons because it lacks the peculiar bitterness of the +former. The plant is rather tender, and therefore to obtain an early +supply the seed must be raised in heat. It may be sown in pots or pans +at the end of March or beginning of April. Transfer the seedlings to +small pots immediately they are large enough, and gradually harden in +preparation for removal to the open ground towards the end of May. They +should be put into light soil in a sunny position, and be allowed three +or four feet apart each way. It is not unusual to grow them on a heap +of discarded potting soil, where they can ramble without restraint. The +growth is rapid, and there must be no stint of water in dry weather. In +five or six weeks the first lot of tender shoots will be ready for +pinching off. Those who do not care to incur trouble under glass may +sow in the open in the early part of May, and thin the plants to the +distance named. + +Perpetual Spinach, or Spinach Beet (_Beta Cicla_).—A valuable plant for +producing a regular supply of leaves which make an excellent Spinach at +a period of the year when the ordinary Summer Spinach is past its +prime. Although it is a true Beet, the roots are worthless, and there +should be liberal treatment to insure an abundant growth of leaves. +Seed may be sown from March to the end of July or beginning of August, +in rows one foot apart. Thin the plants to a distance of six or eight +inches in the rows. When the leaves are ready for gathering, they must +be removed, whether wanted or not, to promote continuous growth. + +Orache is frequently used as a substitute for Spinach where the +ordinary variety fails. Seed should be sown during the spring months, +and as the plant frequently attains a height of five feet allow a +distance of at least three feet in each direction for development. Red +Orache is useful for growing in ornamental borders, but it is not so +suitable for culinary purposes as the white variety. The leaves only +are eaten. + +STACHYS TUBERIFERA + +This vegetable is commonly known as the Chinese Artichoke, and from the +peculiar form it is also called Spirals. A wide difference of opinion +exists as to its value, but in its favour the fact may be stated that +tubers are often exhibited in the finest collections of vegetables +staged for competition. + +The time for planting is early spring, in rows eighteen inches apart, +allowing a distance of nine inches in the rows. The proper depth is +four inches. The roots are quite hardy and the crop gives no trouble. +After planting it is only necessary to keep the plot free from weeds. + +The tubers do not mature until late in autumn, and as far as possible +it is advisable to lift them when they are wanted. Should it be +necessary for any reason to clear the ground, the Stachys must be +covered with soil. When exposed to light and air they soon become +discoloured and are then unfit for cooking. It is usual to boil them in +the same manner as Potatoes, but the finish must be by steam alone. An +agreeable variation consists in frying the boiled roots with butter +until slightly brown, when the dish is considered by many connoisseurs +to be very delicious and suitable for serving with poultry or joint. + +STRAWBERRY + +Fragaria + +Probably the first thought will be that the Strawberry is a fruit, and +that the consideration of its treatment is out of place in a series of +articles on the culture of vegetables. The answer is that the plant +forms an essential feature in every good Kitchen Garden, and the +general routine of work has to be arranged with due regard to this +crop, so that we need make no apology for alluding to it here. + +When to Plant.—The Strawberry is the most certain of all our hardy +fruits, and is much valued both for eating fresh as a summer luxury and +as a preserve for winter use. Although it deserves the best of +cultivation, its demands are few, for under the poorest system of +management it is often extremely prolific, and not unseldom the most +profitable crop in the garden. We have choice of seeds, divisions, and +runners in making a plantation of Strawberries. The universal way is +the best way, and it consists in planting rooted runners of named sorts +in an open sunny spot in well-prepared ground any time during spring or +autumn, when fresh and good runners are obtainable; but late planting +is undesirable, for when the plants have not time to establish +themselves before winter sets in many are lost. If, therefore, the +planting cannot be accomplished at the latest by the beginning of +October, it is better to defer the task until the spring. Plants put in +at the latter time should have the flower-stems removed, and will then +yield a heavy crop in the succeeding season. + +Treatment of Soil.—The best soil for Strawberries is a rich, moist, +sandy loam, but a heavy soil will answer perfectly if it is well +prepared. The ground should be trenched and liberally enriched with +rotten manure placed between the top and bottom spits, where the plants +will reach it when they are most in need. In a new soil that is rather +stiff it will be advisable, when the trenching has been completed, to +put down the line and cut shallow trenches, which should be filled with +any rather fine kindly stuff that may be at hand, such as old hot-bed +soil, leaf-mould, or a mixture of material turned out of pots, with +some good decayed manure. In this the young plants will root freely and +quickly without becoming gross, for they should attain a certain degree +of vigour; but an excessive leaf growth may result in losses during +winter, and a small crop of fruit in the following year. +Well-cultivated soils need no such special preparation, but in any case +a good digging and a liberal manuring are absolutely necessary. And +here it may be well to state that after the plants have obtained a firm +hold on the soil it matters not how hard the ground becomes. The +practice of some growers in running a plough lightly between the rows +either for a mulch, or to give the plants the full benefit of rain, +does not in the least degree upset this conclusion, for this only +creates a loose and friable surface, and the operation is so managed +that the soil near the roots remains undisturbed. It may be accepted as +a secret of successful Strawberry culture that the bed should be firm +and compact, and, in forcing, this principle is so far recognised that +the soil is positively rammed into the pots. + +Method of Planting.—If Strawberry plants come to hand somewhat dry, +unpack them quickly, and spread them in small lots in a cool shady +place, and sprinkle lightly with water to refresh them. A deluge of +water is not needed, and in fact will do harm, but enough to moisten +them will put them in a condition to begin growing as soon as they are +properly located. In planting, a little extra care in the disposition +of the roots in the soil will be well repaid, for plants merely thrust +into the ground cannot develop that robust root growth on which the +future of the crop largely depends. When preparing the positions it is +an excellent plan to build in the centre of each excavation a mound of +earth over which to spread the fibrous roots. Then return the soil and +firmly tread down. As a finish give each plant a copious watering. On +no account should the plant be deeply buried, but the crown should be +left just clear of the surface level. The distances in planting will +have to be determined by the relative vigour of the varieties and the +nature of the ground. As a rule the rows should be two feet apart, and +the plants eighteen inches in the rows, but some varieties require +fully two and a half feet between the rows. It is good practice to +leave a three-feet space between every two rows for necessary traffic. +A modification of the plan consists in planting a foot apart each way; +and immediately the first crop of fruit is off every alternate row is +removed, and then every alternate plant in each row is also taken out. +This places the remainder at two feet every way. The ground is then +lightly forked and a heavy coat of manure put on. + +The general management comprises keeping down weeds, supplying water +abundantly in dry weather, especially when the berries are swelling, +and removing runners as fast as they appear, for to allow them to get +ahead is most injurious, and any serious neglect of this rule is likely +to ruin the plantation. The Strawberry plant makes no proper return on +a dry lumpy soil. Large plantations that cannot be watered must be +aided in the height of the season by covering the ground with any light +material which will prevent evaporation. As to obtaining runners, that +is easy enough, but there is a good way and a bad way. To allow them to +spread and root promiscuously is the bad way; it injures the plants, +makes the bed disorderly, and does not produce good runners. At the +time when runners begin to push, dig and manure the surrounding spaces, +and allow a certain number of runners to come out from each side of the +rows. As they approach maturity and are disposed to make roots, lay +tiles or stones upon the runners near to the young plants to favour the +process, but a neater way will be to peg them down. Or they may be +fixed by short pegs in small pots, filled with light rich earth and +plunged in the soil. + +To keep the crop clean many plans are adopted, and the plant probably +takes its name from the old custom of covering the ground with straw +for the purpose. The cultivator must be left to his own devices, +because of the difficulty in many places of obtaining suitable +material. But we must warn the beginner in Strawberry culture against +grass mowings as more or less objectionable. They sometimes answer +perfectly, and at other times they encourage slugs and snails to spoil +the crop, and if partially rotted by wet weather communicate to the +fruit a bad flavour. There is a very simple means of feeding the crop +and making a clean bed for the fruit. It consists in putting on a good +coat of long, strong manure in February, and in doing this it is no +great harm if the plants are in some degree covered. They will soon +push up and show themselves, and by the time the fruit appears the +straw will be washed clean, and the crop being thus aided will be a +great one, weather permitting. As regards cutting off the leaves, we +advise the removal of old large leaves as soon as the crop is gathered. +But this should be done with a knife; to use a scythe amongst +Strawberries is to ruin the plantation. The object of removing old +leaves is to admit light and air to the young leaves, for on the free +growth of these the formation of good crowns for the next year’s use +depends. By encouraging the young leaves to grow, root action is +promoted, and the embryo buds are formed that will, in the next summer, +develop into Strawberries. + +Some gardeners recommend the removal of the Strawberry plantation every +three years. It is a better plan to make a small plantation annually, +and at the same time destroy an old plantation that has served its +turn. But we are bound to say that Strawberry plantations, well made +and well kept, will often last and prove profitable for six or even +more years. But this will never be the case where there is a stint of +manure or water, or where the runners are allowed to run in their own +way to make a Strawberry mat and a jam of the wrong sort. The +Strawberry fancier does not wish to keep a plantation any great length +of time, and he must plant annually to taste the new sorts. This to +many people is one of the chief delights of the garden, and it +certainly has its attractions. + +Forced Strawberries.—The high price realised on the market for the +earliest supply of forced Strawberries is a sufficient proof that +society is prepared to pay handsomely for this refreshing luxury. As +the season advances and competition becomes keen the figure rapidly +declines, but ‘Strawberries at a guinea an ounce’ has more than once +appeared as a sensational head-line in the daily press. + +The fruiting of Strawberries in pots is part of the annual routine of +nearly all large establishments, but even with the most perfect +appliances it must be admitted that to produce berries which win +appreciation for their size, colour, and flavour demands both skill and +patience, especially patience. + +Strong well-rooted plants are essential to success, and no trouble +should be spared to secure them from robust free-fruiting stocks. The +earliest runners must either be layered on square pieces of mellow turf +or over thumb pots filled with a good rich compost. When the runners +are fairly rooted in the layers of turf or the thumb pots they should +be transferred to pots of the fruiting size. No. 32 is generally used +for the purpose. After the pots have been crocked some growers add a +layer of half-inch bones, which aid the plants and insure free +drainage. The most satisfactory soil is a rich fibrous loam, with the +addition of one-fourth of well-rotted manure and a small proportion of +sand, and the compost must be well firmed into the pots with the +ramming stick. + +The best place to keep the plants is an open airy situation, easily +accessible, where the pots can stand on a bed of ashes. On the approach +of frost they can be transferred to a cold frame, keeping them close to +the glass, or they may be plunged in ashes in some sheltered position. + +When the time arrives for forcing, it is usual to commence by plunging +the pots in a bed of warm leaves or in a mild half-spent hot-bed. +Immediately the plants show sign of blooming they must be shifted to +warmer quarters. A shelf at the back of an early vinery or Peach-house, +quite near the glass, is a suitable position. The temperature at +starting should be 55° Fahr., rising gradually to 60° by the time the +leafage is thoroughly developed. + +The appearance of the flower trusses is a critical period. Liquid +manure should then be given freely, and at the same time the plants +must have abundance of light and a warm dry atmosphere. The blossoms +need to be artificially fertilised with a camel’s-hair pencil, choosing +midday as the best time for this operation. + +When the crop has set it must be thinned to about nine berries on each +plant, and in due time the fruits should have the support of forked +sticks. Care will be necessary to prevent injury to the stalks, or the +flow of sap to the berries may be arrested. Syringe twice a day in dry +weather; and on the first show of colour discontinue the manure-water +and use pure soft water only. At this stage a night temperature of 65° +must be maintained, giving all the air and light possible. + +More failures in the pot culture of Strawberries are attributable to +neglect in watering than to any other cause. The soil must never be +allowed to become dry. Should the leaves once droop they seldom +recover. At least twice a day the plants will need attention, and it is +important that the water should be of the same temperature as the +atmosphere. Always leave the cans full in readiness for the next visit. + +Alpine Strawberries are very largely grown in France, probably more so +than the large-fruited varieties which are popular in this country. The +best method is to sow the seeds in January, in pans filled with a light +rich compost and placed in a gentle heat. Prick out the plants on to a +bed of light soil in a frame, or on a nearly exhausted hot-bed, whence +they should be taken to the open ground. From these sowings fine fruits +may usually be gathered in the following September. Seeds may also be +sown outdoors in spring or in September in shallow drills, six inches +apart, on a bed of light soil. Transplant in due course for fruiting in +the succeeding Strawberry season. When a full crop has been gathered +the plants should be destroyed, a succession being kept up by sowing +annually. By slowly growing the plants from spring-sown seeds and +potting in autumn, it is not a difficult matter to have Alpines in +fruit under glass at Christmas. + +SUNFLOWER + +Helianthus annuus + +Although the Sunflower is not utilised as food for man, the plant is +frequently grown in the Kitchen Garden, partly as an ornament, and also +for the production of seeds which are given to poultry. + +As regards cultivation, sow in pans in April, and put on a gentle +hot-bed, or shut up close in a sunny frame. The plants will soon +appear. Give them light and air, and plant out when they are two or +three inches high. But Sunflowers can be grown without any kind of +artificial aid. A simple and effectual method is to make the spot +intended for them very rich, and dibble the seed an inch deep on the +first day of May. + +TOMATO + +Lycopersicum esculentum + +The taste for Tomatoes often begins with a little antipathy, but it is +soon acquired, and not infrequently develops into decided fondness for +the fruit both cooked and in its natural condition. As a necessary +article of food the call for it in this country is no longer limited to +a select circle of epicures, for the value of its refreshing, +appetising, and corrective properties is now widely recognised, and its +advance in public favour has been accelerated by the improved quality, +enhanced beauty, and increased variety effected by expert raisers. + +The Tomato is a tender, but not a tropical plant, and it requires a +moderately high temperature, free access of air, and above all a full +flood of solar light to bring it to perfection. The necessary heat is +easily managed in any garden equipped with ordinary forcing appliances; +so also is a current of air in properly constructed buildings; but the +deficiency of light during the darker months renders the task of +producing fruit in midwinter less easy than at other seasons. By the +introduction of varieties possessing increased powers of crop-setting, +however, the difficulty of winter fruiting has been largely overcome, +so that, with efficient management, it is now possible to send Tomatoes +to table throughout the year. + +Almost every imaginable glass structure can be employed for growing +Tomatoes, from the small suburban greenhouse to the vast span-roof, +hundreds of feet in length, devoted to their culture in the Channel +Islands. And it is not essential that the crop should be grown alone. +Potatoes, French Beans, Strawberries, and Vines may be forced in the +same building, provided there be no obstruction to light and air, nor +any interference with the conditions which experience has proved to be +imperative for sustaining the plants in vigorous health. For winter and +spring gathering there must be a service of hot-water pipes, but as the +season advances it is easy to ripen fruit in cool houses, and later on +plants outdoors will in favourable seasons yield an abundant return +without artificial protection of any kind. + +INDOOR CULTURE—Sowing and Transplanting.—Seed may be sown at almost any +time of the year, but the most important months are January to March, +August and September. In gardens favourably situated in the South of +England and furnished with the most perfect appliances, seed is sown in +all these months, and in others also; but in smaller gardens sowings +are generally restricted to February and March. Whenever a start is +made sow thinly and about half an inch deep, in pans or boxes, and do +not allow the seedlings to remain in them for an unnecessary day. +Immediately two or at most four leaves are formed either prick off into +other pans or boxes, or transfer singly to thumb pots, and as a rule +the pots will be found preferable. The soil for these pans or pots +should be stored in the greenhouse a few days in advance of the +transfer, so that the compost may acquire the proper temperature and +save the plants from an untimely check. In small houses place the +plants near the glass that they may remain short in the joint, but on +cold nights they must be taken down to avoid injury from fluctuations +of temperature. In large houses, where the light is well diffused, +there is no need to incur this trouble, for the seedlings will do +equally well on the ground level. In due time shift into six-inch pots, +from which they can go straight to borders, or into a larger size if +they are to be fruited in pots. About fourteen weeks will be required +to prepare the plants for borders in the winter season, but a shorter +period will suffice in spring and summer. Plants from an August or +September sowing will not mature fruit in much less than six months, +while a March sowing will yield a return in four months or less. A +great deal depends on the character of the season, and more on skill +and attention. Those who sow in January or February should sow again a +fortnight later, and onwards until the end of April, according to +requirements. For winter supplies a first sowing may be made in June, +in a cold frame, and prepared for transfer to fruiting pots in +September. + +Treatment of Soil.—In the first instance there need be no anxiety about +soil. Any fairly good sandy loam will answer for the seed-pans, and if +too stiff it may be freely mixed with sharp sand or the sifted +sweepings from roads and gravel walks. A fibrous loam, cut from a rich +pasture, and laid up in a heap for twelve months, will, with an +addition of wood ashes and grit, make an ideal soil for pots or +borders. As the plants advance, leaf-mould or thoroughly decayed manure +in moderate quantity should be supplied; but, instead of incorporating +it with the loam in the usual way, it will be found advantageous to +place the manure immediately above the crocks, and the roots will find +it at the right time. But the quantity of manure must not be overdone, +especially in the earlier stages of growth, because excessive +luxuriance neither promotes fruitfulness nor conduces to early +ripening. After the fruit has set, a mulch of decayed manure will aid +the plants in finishing a heavy crop. Manure which is only partially +fermented will not do at all. The ammonia it liberates exerts so deadly +a power that the plants are quickly scorched. + +In its demand for potash the Tomato closely resembles the Potato, and +of the two the former is the more exacting. So quickly does this crop +exhaust the soil, that in small houses it is usual to take out the +earth to a depth of fifteen or eighteen inches every second or third +year, and replace it with virgin loam. Others grow the Tomatoes +alternately in the bed and in pots, but this is only a partial remedy. +Constant dressings of farmyard or stable manure result in the formation +of humus, which, as it becomes sour, has to be sweetened by the solvent +influence of lime. The chief objection to the use of stable manure, +however, even when well rotted, is that it induces a free growth of +foliage instead of promoting an early development of fruit. The most +enduring method is that which is based on chemical knowledge of the +constituents of the soil, and the relation which the plant bears to it. +One of the most successful growers for the London market almost +entirely avoids the use of stable manure, and he is able, by +applications of nitrate of potash, dissolved bones, and the occasional +use of lime, to grow splendid crops in the same houses year after year. + +All the conditions which answer for border work are applicable to pots, +and a limited number of plants brought forward in succession will +supply the requirements of a small household from early spring until +near Christmas. The pot system is conducive to free setting and to +early ripening, and for these reasons it is worth attention. The plants +should be kept short in the joint by frequent shifts until the +twelve-inch pot is reached, and this size will accommodate two cordons +or one plant having two branches, each of which will require a separate +stake for its support. Plunging the pots can be adopted to save labour +in watering. + +Temperatures.—No advantage is to be gained by attempting to force +Tomatoes in a higher temperature than is consistent with healthy +progress, although in winter there is great temptation in the direction +of overheating. Full time for development in moderate heat will bring +stout joints, and impart a vigorous constitution that materially aids +the plants in resisting the insidious attacks of disease. The waning +autumn and dull winter days are the most troublesome periods of +management, and it is remarkable that of two days equal in duration and +apparently in other conditions, the autumnal appears to be less +favourable than the spring day. But if, on the one hand, a high +temperature is injurious, a low temperature must be avoided; although +for a time it may not appear to be harmful. A temperature of 60° or 65° +suits the seed-pans, and after transfer to pots and the roots have +become established, the thermometer should not register less than 55° +during the night. It may rise 10° by means of fire heat in the daytime, +and during bursts of sunshine another 10° or 15° will be quite safe, +always assuming that the roots are not dry, and that the plants have +free ventilation. + +Watering.—The judicious administration of water forms an important +feature in the culture of the Tomato. The plant is too succulent to +endure drought with impunity, and it is mere folly to toy with the +water-can. Saturate down to the roots, and then leave the plants alone +until more water is wanted. No hard and fast rule can be stated as to +frequency. It depends on the condition of the soil, the period of the +year, and the age of the plants. Borders and soil for pots should be +made sufficiently moist in advance, so that watering will not be +necessary immediately after the plants are transferred. The prevalent +opinion that excessive watering generates disease is not confirmed by +our experience. Of course the watering should not be excessive for many +reasons, but the diseases which are often attributed to over-watering +are the result of atmospheric mismanagement. + +General Treatment.—Authorities are not agreed as to whether branched +plants or simple cordons yield the better results. In our judgment the +single stem deserves preference, and it is now more extensively grown +than any other form, although plants having two branches are almost +equally popular. Certainly the cordon can be managed with extreme ease; +it is admittedly the earliest producer, and there is a general +consensus of opinion that the fruit it produces is unsurpassed in size +and quality. The doubtful point is quantity, but even here the +difference, if any, is too trifling to be worth the consideration of +private growers. Cordons are formed by removing the laterals as fast as +they appear, and when the fruit has set, or the requisite height is +attained, the top is also pinched out. + +The space allowed for each plant varies greatly, especially among +growers for market. Under glass every branched Tomato should be allowed +at least three feet each way. For cordons we advocate a distance +between the rows of three feet, and a space of two feet in the row is +not too much. The stems require support of some kind, and stakes are +preferable to string; but of course the stems may be secured to wires +whenever it is convenient to run the plants immediately under the +glass. + +Another point upon which authorities differ is the extent to which +Tomatoes should be denuded of their foliage. Some growers condemn the +procedure entirely; others reduce their plants to skeletons. Both +extremes are objectionable, for when all the leaves are permitted to +remain there is delay or partial failure in colouring the fruit, and +the almost entire removal of foliage checks the root action +injuriously. In practice it answers well to wait until the fruit has +set, then by pinching out the leading point of each leaf, commencing at +the bottom, ripening and colouring are promoted, and the health of the +plant remains unimpaired. + +In dull weather, and especially in short days, a difficulty is +sometimes experienced in setting the fruit, particularly the first +bunch. After fruit has begun to swell on one bunch, the remainder set +with comparative ease. A rather higher temperature than usual combined +with free movement of the atmosphere is generally sufficient to insure +fertilisation. If assistance is necessary, however, water the plants +early in the afternoon, and close the house rather before the usual +time. The warm atmosphere will develop plenty of pollen, and a gentle +shaking of the flower bunches with a slight touch from a hazel twig +will liberate visible clouds, which will effectually set the fruit. +Another method is to lift a flat label or paper knife against the +flowers. The label becomes covered with pollen, and by gently touching +each flower with a slight upward pressure a great number can be +fertilised in a few minutes. A soft brush passed over the flowers daily +has the same effect. Plants in the open ground need no such attention +if they are in good health and the season is at all genial. When a +bunch of flowers contains one that is fasciated or confused, the flower +should be pinched out to prevent the formation of large and ugly fruit. +The remainder of the bunch will be the finer for its absence. + +OUTDOOR CULTURE.—For the open ground it is important to choose a +variety that ripens early. The plants should be vigorous, and they must +be carefully hardened before they are put out. Sow the seed in heat in +February or March, and when large enough transfer the seedlings to +single pots until wanted. Every effort should be made to avoid giving +the plants a check, and if room is available they may be potted on to +the six-inch size and allowed to form one truss of bloom before +planting out, thus saving valuable time. The end of May is usually the +right time for transfer to the open, but Tomatoes will not endure a +keen east wind or nipping frost. During the prevalence of unfavourable +weather it is advisable to wait a week or more rather than risk the +destruction of the plants. When the temperature appears to be fairly +reliable, put them into holes a foot deep and eighteen inches across, +filled with light soil not too rich. For a few nights until the roots +take hold slight protection should be at hand to assure safety; Sea +Kale pots answer admirably, and are easily placed in position. In +addition to beds all sorts of places are suitable for Tomatoes, such as +under warm palings or walls, on sloping banks and in sheltered nooks, +where they will thrive and yield valuable fruit. Stout stakes are +required and should be promptly provided. Pinch out the lateral shoots, +and as soon as the fruits commence to colour some of the largest leaves +may be partially removed. Early in August nip out the tips of the +leaders in order to encourage ripening. Thus in the open garden a +supply of this delicacy may be insured for part of the year equal in +quality to fruit which is grown under glass. (_See also page 181_.) + +The diseases of the Tomato are dealt with in the chapter on The Fungus +Pests of certain Garden Plants. + +TURNIP + +Brassica Rapa + +The Turnip is not a difficult garden crop; indeed, the simplest +management will produce an ample supply, and any fairly good ground +will suffice for it. But whatever is worth doing is worth doing well, +and a gardener may be pardoned for taking an especial pride in +producing a sufficiency of handsome and tender Turnips. The great point +is to insure a succession through a long season, or, say, the whole +year round, for Turnips are always in request, and at certain periods +of the year delicate young roots are greatly valued for the table. + +The finest Turnips are grown in deep, sandy loam, kept in a high state +of cultivation. Useful Turnips may be grown on any soil, but a handsome +sample of the finest quality cannot be produced on heavy clay or thin +limestone. In common with other fast-growing plants of the cruciferous +order, Turnips must have lime in some form, and in many gardens it will +occasionally be necessary to give a dressing of lime in addition to the +ordinary manure. Superphosphate, bone, and old plaster or mortar from +destroyed buildings, are all valuable in preparing the soil for this +crop. + +Times of Sowing.—An early crop of small bulbs may be grown by sowing in +January on a very gentle hot-bed as prescribed for early Radishes, and +it may be well to add, that in an emergency white Turnip Radishes may +be made to take the place of Turnips, both to flavour soups and to +appear as a dish in the usual way. Fast-growing Turnips may be sown on +a sheltered warm border in February and March, to be carefully watched +and protected when unkind weather prevails. In April and May sowings +should be made consistently with the probable wants of the household, +but the May sowings should comprise two or three sorts in the event of +hot dry weather spoiling some of them. + +The principal sowings for autumn and winter supplies are made in June +and July, but seed may also be sown in August. Ground from which some +crop, such as Peas, has just been cleared generally needs little +preparation beyond breaking the surface with a hoe, followed by a good +raking. Thin the plants early and let them stand finally at six to nine +inches apart in the rows. For late crops seed is often sown broadcast, +the roots being pulled as they mature. + +General Culture.—It is advisable to sow Turnips in drills on a fine +tilth, and it is an advantage to have a sufficiency of some stimulating +manure near the surface to hurry the growth of the young plant, for the +danger of fly belongs to the seed-leaf stage. Generally speaking, the +Turnip fly does but little harm in gardens; but where it is much +feared, the seed should be sown in prepared drills to encourage a quick +growth. Draw the drills twelve to fifteen inches apart, three inches +deep, and about the same width, and almost fill them with rotten +manure, or with a mixture of earth and guano, or wood ashes; cover this +with a little fine soil to prevent injury to the seed; then sow, and +lightly conceal the seed with earth as a finish. If the ground is +sufficiently moist, growth will commence almost immediately, and the +plant will come up strong, and very quickly put forth rough leaves. In +the general management more depends on timely and judicious thinning +than upon any other point. If Turnips are not well thinned, so that +each plant can spread its green head unimpeded by the leaves of a +neighbour, a good growth cannot be expected; and thinning by the hoe +should be commenced as soon as the rough leaves appear. The operation +must be repeated until the plants are at a suitable distance, and then +comes the process of singling, which should be done by hand. It will be +found that in many cases two or three little plants stand together +looking like one. There must be only one left at each station, and that +should be the shortest. The distances may vary from four to ten inches, +according to the vigour of the variety and the kind of Turnips +required. An easy and profitable plan is to allow a certain number of +bulbs to swell to supply young Turnips, and, by drawing these, leave +room for the remainder of the crop to attain its proper size for +storing. + +The Turnip likes a light soil, but does not well endure the occasional +dryness to which light soils are subject. This fact accounts for many +failures of the crop in a hot dry season, for sunshine suits the +Turnip, but it must have moisture or suffer deterioration in some way. +If, therefore, the soil becomes dry, and there is no prospect of rain, +the Turnips should have water, not simply to moisten the surface, but +to go to the roots, for frequent watering is not good for the crop, as +it tends to spoil the beauty of the bulbs, and promotes a rank +leaf-growth which is not wanted. An occasional heavy watering in dry +weather will also do much towards the repression of the many enemies +that beset this useful root—the jumpers, the grubs, the weevils, and +the rest of the vermin will be routed out of their snug hiding-places +in the dusty soil when the watering takes place, and the death of many +will follow. But so long as the soil is fairly moist at the depth the +roots are ranging, there is no need for watering, and the time it would +consume may be utilised for other work. + +Lifting and Storing.—On the approach of winter a certain portion of the +Turnip crop should be lifted and stored. In doing this the tops must be +cut off, not too close, but just leaving a slight green neck, and the +roots should be rather shortened than removed; at all events, to cut +the roots off close is bad practice: when so treated the bulbs do not +keep well. Any rough storage answers for Turnips, the object being to +keep them plump by excluding the atmosphere, and at the same time +render them safe against frost. The portion of the crop left in the +ground may be lifted as wanted in the same way as Parsnips, but this +should be done systematically, so that the ground which is cleared may +be dug over and ridged up before winter. Those that remain will be in a +piece, and will give a good crop of spring greens, after which they may +be made use of as manure by putting them at the bottom of a trench. + +Some of the foes that war against the Turnip crop are alluded to at +greater length later on. Happily, the gardener has many friends that +are insufficiently known to the farmer, not the least important being +the starlings, song birds, and occasionally (but not often) the +sparrows. Where the cultivation is good and small birds abound, the +Turnip crop is pretty safe, and the general routine of culture sketched +above will certainly promote, if it does not absolutely secure, its +safety. The worst foes of the Turnip in the field are the fly and the +caterpillar; but in the garden, and more especially the old garden, +anbury is the most to be feared. When this happens the cultivator may +rest satisfied that the soil is in fault, and this may be owing to a +bad routine of cropping. Wherever anbury appears, whether on Cabbages +or Turnips or any other cruciferous plant, there should be worked out a +complete change in the order of cropping, taking care not to put any +brassicaceous plants on the plots where the disease has occurred for +two or three seasons, and allowing at least one whole year to pass +without growing any of the cruciferous order upon them. In the +meantime, for other crops the land should be well trenched and limed, +and generously tilled. The result will be profitable crops of other +kinds of vegetables and a refreshing of the soil that will enable it to +carry brassicaceous plants again, with but little risk of the +recurrence of anbury. Good cultivation is the only panacea known +against the plagues that assail our crops. This does not surely secure +them, for the elements are capricious and beyond our control; but where +good cultivation prevails the failures are few, and even unfavourable +seasons do not utterly obliterate the benefits of past labour. + +Swede.—There are several advantages in growing Swedes as one of the +garden crops. They are hardy in constitution and prolong the supply of +a wholesome vegetable. In districts where Turnips are unsatisfactory, +Swedes prove successful, and are appreciated for their delicacy of +flavour when grown from stocks which have been carefully selected for +the purpose. The culture is in all respects the same as for Turnip. The +date of sowing depends on the district. In the north it is safe to sow +at the beginning of May, but in the midlands and southern counties of +England the end of May or beginning of June is early enough. + +VEGETABLE MARROW + +Cucurbita Pepo ovifera + +The Vegetable Marrow does not, in a general way, obtain the right kind +of attention in gardens. It is very generally grown and is much valued +as a summer vegetable. But too often the aim of the cultivator is to +obtain large Marrows, that at the very best are coarse and troublesome +to the cook and are always wanting in substance and flavour, instead of +smallish Marrows, which are easily dressed, elegant on the table, and +combine with a substantial and somewhat glutinous pulp a most delicious +flavour. Two fears beset the average gardener: he is afraid to grow +small sorts, and he is afraid to cut them when quite young. When he can +overcome these fears he will appreciate the smaller Marrows that have +of late years been secured by patient labour in cross-breeding, for +while they are of the highest quality, they are also early and +productive, far surpassing all the larger Marrows in quickness and +usefulness. The market grower we do not pretend to advise, for he must +grow what he can sell; and if the smaller Marrows are insufficiently +appreciated in gardens, we cannot hope to see them on sale in shops. + +The Vegetable Marrow will grow in any good soil, and although a tender +plant, it is so accommodating that if the seed is sown on a piece of +newly dug clay land in the latter part of May, or early in June, the +plants will thrive and produce a heavy crop the same season. We put +this as an extreme case, but we do not recommend such a careless mode +of growing this valuable vegetable. The fact is, it pays better to grow +it well than to grow it ill; and in a country where land and labour are +costly, and the summer very uncertain, it is best to take such a thing +in hand scientifically, and provide for it as many favourable +conditions as possible. Three conditions are imperative: a moderate +bottom heat from fermenting material; a kindly, loamy soil, quite +mellow, in which the roots can run freely; and a sufficiency of water, +for this is a thirsty plant. But the excessive use of manure is +undesirable, as this only forces a rank growth of foliage at the +expense of the fruit. + +Frame culture is of some importance, because early Marrows are highly +valued at good tables. For this business the neat-growing, +small-fruited kinds should be chosen, as they yield a great crop in a +small compass. The best place for an early crop of Marrows is a brick +pit, with hot-water pipes for top heat, and a bed of fermenting +materials for bottom heat. It is no difficult matter to obtain a supply +in a house with Cucumbers, but it is better to grow the Marrows apart, +as they require less heat and less moisture than Cucumbers. In making +up the bed, it is well to employ leaves largely, say to the extent of +one-half, the remainder being stable manure that has been twice turned. +Such a bed will give a mild heat for a great length of time, and the +plants can be put out upon it within three days of its being made up. +When grown in a common frame, the arrangements are much the same as +advised for the frame cultivation of the Cucumber, the chief points of +difference being that Marrows should have less heat and more air. The +temperature for Marrows under cover may range from 55° the minimum, to +80° the maximum; the safe medium being about 65° when the weather is +cold and dull; running to 80° when strong sunshine prevails, and the +plants are growing freely with plenty of air. As for the general +management, a bed nine inches deep of good fibrous loam is required, +with regular supplies of water of the same temperature as the pits, so +that the bed is always reasonably moist, and every evening a slight +syringing over the leaves and the walls before shutting up. The +training out is a very simple matter. Let the vines run in their own +way until they have made shoots eighteen inches long, then nip out the +points. After this there must be no more stopping, but occasionally the +laterals must be suppressed to prevent crowding. Give air freely at +every opportunity, and be careful not to administer too much water, or +the blunder will result in a deficiency of fruit. + +To grow Marrows in the open air, the best course of procedure is to +remove a portion of the top soil, to form a shallow trench four feet +wide. Into this carry one foot to eighteen inches depth of half-rotten +manure, or a mixture of equal parts of manure and leaves, and cover +with the soil that was taken out. This will produce a very gentle +hot-bed that will last until the natural ground heat is sufficient to +keep the plants in vigorous health. The middle of May is quite early +enough to make up the bed, and in the course of two or three days the +plants may be put out. Cover with hand-lights or small frames, which on +the following day should be tilted at bottom to admit a little air, and +if strong sunshine occurs, a Rhubarb leaf may be laid over to subdue +the glare upon the young plants. We will suppose these plants to have +been raised in a Cucumber frame from seeds sown in April. If plants are +not available, sow seeds in patches of two or three on the bed, and +cover with inverted large flower-pots, and with a piece of tile to stop +the hole. This plan hastens germination. Pots may also be used as +protectors if glass frames are not at command, being taken off during +the day and put on at night, the hole being left open to give a little +air. During bad weather the pots should remain all day over the plants, +but as soon as possible must be again taken off to keep the growth +short, green, and vigorous. The plants should be put singly down the +centre of the bed, three feet apart, and as a matter of course the +seeds should be sown at the same distance, and each clump of two or +three should be reduced to one when the plants are somewhat forward. It +is advisable not to be in a hurry in thinning the plants, for the slugs +will probably compel some modification of arrangements, so that +sometimes it will be necessary to lift a clump, and divide the plants, +to fill up gaps where the slugs have made a clearance. An occasional +inspection in the after part of the day, and again in the early +morning, will be the best course to keep down the slugs, as they may +then be caught and disposed of; but a dusting of soot around each clump +will do much to protect the plants against silent marauders. As for +after-management, there is no occasion whatever for any stopping or +training, but now and then a stout peg may be placed to keep some +strong vine in order. The necessity for moisture must not be +overlooked. If the ground becomes dry the plants will suffer, but with +sufficient moisture they will continue growing and bearing until the +frost destroys them. Cut the Marrows when quite young, for not only are +they more useful on the table when small and tender, but the plants +will bear five times as many as when a few are permitted to attain +their full size. The explanation of the case is very simple. The +production of the young fruits does not in any appreciable degree +exhaust the plants; but when the fruits are allowed to develop, the +plant is too severely taxed, and a succession is pretty well brought to +a stop. The most delicately flavoured Marrows, as a rule, are the +smallest; these when cooked should be served whole, or at most only cut +into halves, and of course there is no occasion to remove the seeds. + + + + +A YEAR’S WORK IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN + + +The following monthly notes are not intended to supersede the detailed +instructions on the several kinds of Vegetables which appear in the +preceding pages. The present object is to call attention to the work +that must be done, and the work that must be prepared for, as the +changes of the seasons require and the state of the weather may permit; +yet some amount of detail is included. Merely to offer reminders would +be to exclude the great mass of amateurs, and the less experienced of +practical gardeners, from participation in the advantages of these +monthly notes, and to restrict their use to a few practical men who are +masters of every detail of the business of gardening. The routine under +each month is generally in harmony-with that already recommended, but +certain variations of practice are suggested which may prove of service +in some districts and under particular circumstances. + +A work on gardening demands of the reader the exercise of judgment. If +blindly followed, it may prove as often wrong as right; for it is not +in the power of the authors to influence the weather in favour of their +directions, or to insure to those who may follow their guidance a +single one amongst the many conditions requisite to success. Although +the times named for certain operations are the best as an average, +peculiarities of climate and of season will require some modifications, +which each one must discover for himself; and after the seed of any +vegetable has been sown it is not always needful to give subsequent +reminders of successional sowings. These naturally follow in accordance +with the requirements of each particular garden. With such allowances +duly made, these notes will, it is hoped, prove thoroughly practical, +and tend materially to aid the cultivator in obtaining from the +vegetable garden an abundance of everything in its season, and of a +quality of which he need not be ashamed. + + +JANUARY + +Work in the garden during the opening month of the year is entirely +dependent on the weather, and it is futile to enter on a vain conflict +with Nature. When heavy rains prevail keep off the ground, but +immediately it will bear traffic without poaching be prepared to take +advantage of every favourable hour. Much may be done in January to make +ready for the busy spring, and every moment usefully employed will +relieve the pressure later on. Survey the stock of pea-sticks, haul out +all the rubbish from the yard, and make a ‘smother’ of waste prunings +and heaps of twitch and other stuff for which there is no decided use. +If properly done, the result will be a black ash of the most +fertilising nature, such as a mere fire will not produce. Should the +soil be frost-bound wheel out manure and lay it in heaps ready to be +spread and dug in where seed-beds are to be made. If the weather is +open and dry, trench spare plots and make ready well-manured plots for +sowing Peas and Beans. So far as may be convenient, all preparatory +work should be pushed on with vigour, and every effort must be made to +lay up as much land in the rough as possible; for the more it is frozen +through the greater will be its fertility, and the more beautiful, as +well as more abundant, the crops. + +It is a matter of the most ordinary prudence to be prepared to resist +the shock of a severe frost. When this event occurs, many suffer loss +because they are not prepared for it. Good brick walls and substantial +roofs are needed for the safe keeping of fruits and the more valuable +kinds of roots; but when rough methods are resorted to, such as +clamping and pitting, there should be a large body of stuff employed, +for a prolonged frost will find its way through any thin covering, no +matter what the material may be. As there is not much to do now out of +doors, it is a good time to look over the notes which were made +concerning various crops in the past season, and to attend to the seed +list. + +Seed sowing should be practised with exceeding caution; but great +things may be done where there are warm, sheltered, dry borders, and +suitable appliances for screening and forwarding early crops. Under +these favourable conditions, we advise the sowing of small breadths of +a few choice subjects towards the end of the month; and, this being +done, every care should be taken to nurse the seedlings through the +trying times that are before them. Such things as tender young +Radishes, Onions, small Salads, Spinach, Cabbage, and Carrots never +come in too early; the trouble often is that they are seen in the +market while as yet they are invisible in the garden. Hedges of +Hornbeam, Laurel, or Holly, to break the force of the wind, are +valuable for sheltering early borders, and walls are great aids to +earliness by the warmth they reflect and the dryness they promote. + +The soil for these early crops should be light and rich, and the +position extra well drained, to prevent the slightest accumulation of +water during heavy rains. Supposing you have such a border, sow upon +it, as early as weather will permit, any of the smaller sorts of +Cabbage Lettuce, Onion, Long Scarlet Radish, Round Spinach, Cabbage, +and Carrot. All these crops may be grown in frames with greater safety, +and in many exposed places the warm border is almost an impossibility. +Reed hurdles and loose dry litter should be always ready when early +cropping is in hand; and old lights, and even old doors, and any and +every kind of screen may be made use of at times to protect the early +seed-beds from snow, severe frost, and the dry blast of an east wind. + +Forcing is one of the fine arts in the English garden. It is an art +easily acquired up to a certain point, but beyond that point full of +difficulty. Every step in this business is a conflict with Nature, and +in such a conflict the devices of man must occasionally fail. A golden +rule is to be found in the proverb ‘The more haste the less speed.’ +Whatever the source of heat, it should be moderate at first, and should +be augmented slowly. The earlier the forced articles are required the +more careful should be the preparation for them, and the more moderate +the temperature in the first instance. There must be at command a +constant as well as sufficient temperature: when a forced crop has made +some progress a check will be fatal to success. The beginner should +acquire experience with Rhubarb and Sea Kale, then with Asparagus and +Mushrooms and Dwarf French Beans, and so on to ‘higher heights’ of this +branch of practical gardening. + +Artichokes, Globe, are not quite hardy, and must be protected with +litter. + +Asparagus beds to be heavily manured, if not already done, but the beds +need not be dug. Be content to lay the manure on, and the rains will +wash the stimulant down to the roots in due time. In gardens near the +coast seaweed is the best of manure for Asparagus, and the use of salt +can then be dispensed with. + +Beans, Broad, may be sown in frames, and towards the end of the month +in open quarters. For early crops select the Longpod varieties. Sow on +ground deeply dug and well manured. + +Cabbage may be planted out at any time when weather permits, provided +you possess, or can obtain, the plants; and it is of the utmost +importance to secure them from a reliable source, or varieties may be +planted which will in a few weeks send up flower-stems instead of +forming tender hearts. At every season of the year vacant plots should +be kept going with a few breadths of Cabbage. With our variable climate +they may be acceptable, even in the height of summer, if there has been +a hard run upon other vegetables, or some important crop has failed +outright. + +Cauliflower may be sown on a gentle hot-bed, or in a pan in the +greenhouse, or even in a frame, to make a start for planting out in +March or April. + +Cress, to be enjoyed, must be produced from a constant succession of +small but frequent sowings. All the sorts are good, but different in +flavour, and they should be used only while young and tender. Sow at +intervals of a few days in pans, as in the case of Mustard, until it is +possible to cultivate in the open air, and then give a shady position +during summer on a mellow and rather moist soil. + +Cucumbers are never ready too soon to meet the demand in early spring. +They are grown in houses more or less adapted to their requirements, +and also in frames over hot-beds. At this time of year, however, frames +are somewhat troublesome to manage, and in trying weather they are a +little hazardous, although later in the season there is no difficulty +whatever with them. For the present, therefore, we shall confine our +remarks to house culture. Almost any greenhouse may be made to answer, +but the work can be carried on most successfully and with the greatest +economy in houses which are expressly constructed for Cucumbers. For +winter work a lean-to, facing south, possesses special advantages. But +for general utility, if we had to erect a building on a well-drained +soil, it should be dwarf, sunk three feet in the ground, with brick +walls up to the eaves, and lighted only from the roof. Such a structure +is less influenced by atmospheric changes than a building wholly above +ground. The size, of course, is optional; and quite a small house will +supply an ordinary family with Cucumbers. But a small house is not +economical either in fuel or in labour. A building thirty feet long by +twelve feet wide, six feet high at the sides, and eight and a half feet +high at the ridge, will not only grow Cucumbers and Melons, but will +also be of immense service for many other plants. A division across the +middle by a wall rising four feet, surmounted with a glass screen +fitted to the roof, and finished with a door partially of glass, will +greatly augment its usefulness. There should be an alley down the +centre four or five feet wide, bounded by walls reaching four feet +above the floor. These walls should be nine inches thick for two feet +six inches of their height, but for the upper parts the brickwork need +only be four and a half inches thick. This arrangement will provide a +ledge on the inner side of each wall, and the main walls should also +have ledges corresponding in height, on which to lay slates to carry +the soil. To insure drainage, allow a space of about an inch between +the slates, and place tiles or an inverted turf over every opening to +prevent the soil being washed away. The hot-water pipes will be in +chambers immediately beneath the plants. Openings in the alley walls, +fitted with sliding doors, will admit the heat direct into the house +whenever it may be desirable. Ventilation should be provided for under +the ridge at each end, as well as in the roof. In such a house it is +easy to grow Cucumbers all the year round, except, perhaps, in the dead +of winter, when the short, dark days render the task difficult, no +matter how perfect the appliances at command. The division in the +centre will be found valuable at all times, and especially when one set +of plants is failing; for another set can be brought into bearing +exactly when wanted. But whatever the structure may be, the mode of +culture remains substantially the same in any case. Now, as to soil, a +compost made of mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal parts will be +effective and sweet. In the absence of leaf-mould, use two parts of +loam and one of thoroughly decayed manure with a few pieces of charcoal +added. Sweetness is not absolutely necessary for success, but +nevertheless we like to have it, so that a visit to the Cucumber-house +may be a source of pleasure. This it cannot be if rank manure has been +used. Raise the seed singly in small 60-pots, and sow enough, for +however good the seed may be a proportion will almost certainly fail +from some cause at this critical period. Give the plants one shift into +the 48-size, to keep them going until they are ready for putting into +the beds. Cucumbers grow with great rapidity, and should never know a +check, least of all by starvation. Upon the slates make as many heaps +of soil as are required, and in the centre of each heap put one plant. +As the roots extend, add more soil until the heaps meet and finally +become level with the top of the brickwork. This treatment will supply +food as the roots develop, and help to maintain the plants in bearing +for a long period. Stout wires running parallel with the length of the +house, a foot below the glass, will carry the vines. Temperature should +never fall below 60° at night; but as the season advances, if the +thermometer registers 90° on sunny days, no harm will be done, provided +the roots are not dry, and the air be kept properly moist by plying the +syringe. On dull days one good sprinkling over the foliage will +suffice, and it should be done in the morning. In warm sunny weather, +however, two or three syringings will be beneficial; but the work must +not be done so late as to risk the foliage being wet when night comes +on. There will be occasions when it may be advisable to avoid touching +the leaves with water, if there is no probability of their drying +before nightfall. In such a case the moisture can be kept up by freely +sprinkling the floor and walls. Cucumbers cannot thrive if they are dry +at the roots, but although there should be no stint of water, it must +be given with judgment; and it is of the utmost importance that the +drainage should be effectual, for stagnant water is even more injurious +than a dry soil. A few sticks placed in various parts of the bed, +reaching down to the slates, will serve as indicators. Draw and inspect +them occasionally, and a pretty correct idea of the condition of the +soil will be obtained. The water should be of the same temperature as +the house; if applied cold the plants will sustain a serious check. In +the event of the bed falling somewhat below the proper temperature, the +water may with advantage be a few degrees higher than usual. + +Horse-radish should be planted early, to insure fine roots for next +Christmas beef. + +Leek.—Those who wish to produce stems of superb size and beautiful +texture must sow in heat during this month or early in February, for a +longer period of growth is requisite than for ordinary crops. When +sufficient root growth has been made, transplant into larger pots, and +in due course transfer these to a frame where the plants may be +gradually hardened off for putting out into specially prepared trenches +in April. + +Lettuces will soon be in demand, and the early hearts will be +particularly precious. Sow a few sorts in pans, in frames, or on gentle +hot-beds, to be ready for planting out by-and-by. + +Melon.—Although the Melon is a fruit, its culture naturally forms part +of the routine of a vegetable garden. Up to a certain point it may be +grown in the same house with Cucumbers; but after that point is +reached, the two plants need widely different treatment. Cucumbers are +cut when young, and must be grown in a warm and humid atmosphere from +beginning to end. Melons need warmth, and at the commencement moisture +also; but the fruit has to be ripened, and after it is set dry +treatment becomes essential for the production of a rich flavour with +plenty of aroma. In large gardens, three crops of Melons are usually +grown in the same house in one season. A light soil is advisable at the +beginning of the year, but later in the season a heavier compost may be +employed. For the first sowing select an early variety, and at the +beginning of this month put the seed in separate pots. Re-pot the +plants once, and they will be ready for the beds by the first week of +February. Melons from this sowing should be fit for table in May, which +is quite as early as they can be produced with any sugar in them. Until +the fruits begin to swell the treatment advised for Cucumbers will suit +Melons also. Afterwards the watering will need careful management. It +would be an advantage if the fruit could be finished off without a drop +of water from the time they are about two inches in diameter, but the +hot pipes render it almost impossible. Still, water must not be given +more frequently than is actually necessary to keep the plants going, +and when it is applied let there be a thorough soaking. At the same +time ventilation will demand constant attention, and, provided the +temperature can be maintained, it is scarcely possible to give air too +freely. In the early stage of growth, and in mild weather, if the +thermometer registers 65° at 9 P.M., the cultivator may sleep +peacefully so far as Melons are concerned. As the season advances, the +temperature may be increased to 70° by night, and 75° to 90° by day. +With reference to stopping, it may be sufficient to say that it is a +waste of energy to allow the plant to make a large quantity of vine, +which has afterwards to be cut away. By judiciously pinching out the +shoots, the plant can be equally spread over the allotted space. The +flowers must be fertilised, and in this respect the treatment differs +from that advised for Cucumbers. The practice has the advantage of +allowing the fruits to be evenly distributed over the vine, and from +four to six, according to the size of the variety, will be enough for +each plant to ripen. + +Mustard.—Those who care for salads need a supply of Mustard almost all +through the year, and to secure a succession it will be necessary to +sow at regular intervals. It is a good plan to keep a few boxes in use +for the purpose in a plant-house or pit, sowing one or two at a time as +required, and taking care not to sow wastefully. The seed may be sown +out of doors all the summer, on a shady border, but nothing surpasses +boxes or large pans under glass. Mustard and Cress should never be sown +in the same row or in the same pan, but separately, because they do not +grow at the same pace, and the former may be fit for use a week or so +before the latter. Do not be content to use Rape, or any other +substitute, but sow the genuine article. + +Onion.—The modern practice of sowing Onion seed in boxes under glass is +to be commended for several reasons. It insures a long season of growth +and results in handsome bulbs far above the average in size. +Transplanting affords the opportunity of selecting the strongest +seedlings and of placing them at exact intervals in the bed. As a +crowning advantage this system, to a large extent, prevents attack from +the Onion Fly. Sow in boxes filled with rich soil and see that the +plants have sufficient water, although very little is necessary until +after transfer to other boxes. + +Peas of the round-seeded class may be sown in open quarters, and the +driest and warmest places must be selected. It is next to impossible to +grow them too well; for if the haulm runs up higher than usual, the +produce will be the finer. Remember, too, that if deep trenches are dug +and a lot of manure is put in for Peas, the ground is so far prepared +for Broccoli, Celery, and late Cauliflowers to follow; for the +early-sown Peas will be off the ground in time for another paying crop. +As everybody wants an early dish of Peas, sow one of the forward +marrowfat varieties in pots, or on strips of turf laid grass-side +downwards in boxes having movable bottoms that can be withdrawn by a +dexterous hand when the transfer is made from frames to the open +ground. Troughs for Peas can be made in very little time out of waste +wood that may be found in the yard; or a few lengths of old zinc +spouting blocked up at the ends will answer admirably. In the absence +of such aids, flower-pots may be used. The seed should have the shelter +of a frame or pit, but should have the least possible stimulus from +artificial heat, except in cases where there is all the skill at +command to promote very early production. + +Potatoes are prized when they come in early, and may be forwarded on +beds of leaves and exhausted hot-beds by covering with light rich soil, +and employing old frames for protection, with litter handy in case of +frost. For this early work select the earliest Kidneys and Rounds; the +main-cropping varieties are not quick enough. + +Radishes are more or less in demand for the greater part of the year. +The early crops are, however, especially valued, and there need not be +the least difficulty in producing a supply. A half-spent hot-bed, or, +indeed, any position that affords shelter and warmth, will answer +admirably for raising this crop until it may be trusted to a suitable +position in the open. + +Sea Kale may be covered with pots or a good depth of litter, or a +combination of pots and litter. This should be done early, as at the +first move of vegetation this delicious vegetable will come into use, +and will generally be of finer quality than if forced. It happens, +however, to be the easiest of all things to force, and so, wherever it +is cared for, a plentiful supply may be maintained from Christmas (or +earlier) until May. As the leaf-stems must be thoroughly blanched, +covering is needful in all cases. + +Spinach may be sown in open quarters. If the frost destroys the plant, +sow again. Some risk must be encountered for an early dish of this +highly-prized vegetable. Keep the autumn-sown Spinach clear of weeds, +and in gathering (if it happens to be fit to supply a gathering), pick +off the leaves separately with a little care. + +Strawberries.—Seed of the Alpine varieties sown in pans this month, for +transfer later to the open ground, usually produce fine fruits in +September. + +Tomato.—Of the immense value of the Tomato as an article of diet we +need say nothing, but we may confidently affirm that its merits for +decorative purposes have not as yet been fully recognised. Long racemes +of brilliant glossy fruit are sometimes employed with striking effect +in épergnes, and there is a natural fitness in using them for +decorating the dinner table. All the Tomatoes can be grown and ripened +under glass in almost any fashion which may suit the cultivator’s +convenience. Pits, frames, vineries, and Peach-houses will bring the +fruit to perfection, either in pots or planted out. Magnificent crops +are also grown in the manner usual with Cucumbers, but in a lower +temperature; and those who have an early Cucumber house at liberty +during the summer may turn it to good account for Tomatoes. The soil +should be prepared and laid up in the autumn. It must not be too rich, +or there will be much foliage and little fruit, and the flowering will +also be late. A compost of leaf-mould and loam with an addition of sand +suits Tomatoes admirably; but raw manure should be regarded as poison. +Sow thinly in well-drained pots firmly filled with soil, and place in a +temperature of 60° or 65°. When large enough to handle, transfer the +seedlings to small pots, and, if necessary, shade them for a few days. +Keep them near the glass until the roots are established, and allow +them to suffer no check from first to last. + + +FEBRUARY + +The work of this month is to be carried on as weather permits, but with +greater activity and more confidence, for the sun is fast gaining +power. Earnest digging, liberal manuring, and scrupulous cleansing are +the tasks that stand forward as of pre-eminent importance. Many weeds, +groundsel especially, will now be coming into flower, and if allowed to +seed will make enormous work later on. It is well, however, to +remember—what few people do remember, because the fact has not been +pressed upon their attention—that weeds of all kinds, so long as they +are not in flower, are really useful as manure when dug into the soil. +Therefore a weedy patch is not of necessity going to ruin; but if the +weeds are not stopped in time, they spread by their seeds and mar the +order of the garden. Dig them in, and their decay will nourish the next +crop. If early sowing is practised, and the earliest possible produce +of everything is aimed at, there must be always at hand the means of +protection, such as litter, spruce branches, mats, or other material, +as circumstances require. The vigilant gardener is not surprised by the +weather, but is always armed for an emergency. Read the notes for +January before proceeding further; and in respect of what remains +undone, spare the necessity of reminders here. + +Frame Ground should be kept scrupulously clean and orderly. Many things +will require watering now, but water must not be carelessly given, +because damp is hurtful during frosty weather. Take care that the +plants are not crowding and starving, or they will come to no good. + +Artichoke, Globe.—Plants from a sowing made now in a frame, and +transferred to the open at the end of April, will generally produce +heads in the following August, September, and October. + +Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be planted this month where it has been +possible to prepare the ground. Use whole sets if convenient, or plant +cut sets with about three eyes in each. + +Beans, Broad, may be sown both for early and main crops now, and with +but little risk of damage by spring frosts. The driest and warmest +situation should be selected for the early sorts, and the strongest +land for the late ones. If sowings were made in frames last month, take +care to harden the plants cautiously preparatory to planting out; if +caught by a sharp frost, every one will perish. + +Beans, French.—To precede the outdoor crops make a sowing of Dwarf +French Beans in frames, and of the Climbing French varieties in +orchard-houses or other available spaces under glass. + +Beet.—Sowings of the Globe variety may be made this month and in March, +on a gentle hot-bed under frames, to provide roots in advance of the +outdoor supplies. + +Broccoli.—Sow on a warm sheltered border, and also in a frame. With +such an important crop at this time of year, there should be at least +two strings to the bow. + +Brussels Sprouts.—For an early gathering of large buttons a sowing +should be made now on the warm border. This vegetable requires a long +period of growth to attain perfection, and those who sow late rarely +obtain such fine buttons as the plant is capable of producing. + +Cabbage may be sown in pans or boxes placed in a frame, to be planted +out in due time for summer use, and from a quick-growing variety tender +hearts may be cut almost as early as from autumn-sown plants. Where +plantations stand rather thick, draw as fast as possible from amongst +them every alternate plant, to allow the remainder ample space for +hearting. It is well to remember that the small loose hearts of +immature Cabbages make a more delicate dish than the most complete +white hearts; but when grown for market, or to meet a large demand, +there must be bulk and substance. Cabbages are in constant request to +mend, and to make stolen crops, or take the place of anything that +fails past recovery. + +Capsicum and Chili should be sown now or in March on a hot-bed, and be +potted on until the plants are fit to be placed in the greenhouse or +conservatory. + +Cauliflower.—Another sowing should be made under glass to supply a +succession of plants. + +Corn Salad thrives well in any soil not particularly heavy, the best +being a sandy fertile loam. Sow in drills six inches apart; keep the +hoe well at work, and when ready thin the plants out to six inches +apart. They should be eaten young. + +Couve Tronchuda produces two distinct dishes. The top forms a Cabbage +of the most delicate flavour and colour, and furnishes the best +possible dish of greens in autumn; and the midribs of the largest +leaves may be cooked in the manner of Sea Kale, and will be found +excellent. This delicious vegetable may be secured for use in summer +and autumn and far on into the winter by successive sowings in +February, March, and April; the first sowings to be assisted with heat. +The plants should be put out as early as possible on rich soil at from +two to three feet each way; they must have plenty of water in a dry +summer. The season of Portugal Cabbage may be prolonged by taking up +what plants are left before severe frost occurs, and heeling them into +a bank of dry earth in a shed or outhouse. + +Egg Plant.—The fruits of Egg Plants play a more important part in the +cookery of the French and Italians than with us, and they make a +delicious dish when properly cooked. Seed may be raised in heat, but +when summer comes the plants thrive in rich soil at the foot of a wall +facing south. The white and purple varieties are grown for ornament as +well as for cooking. Sow now or in March in heat, and in June the +plants should be ready for transferring to rich soil in a sheltered +spot, allowing each one a space of two feet. + +Garlic to be planted in rows, nine inches apart each way, and two +inches deep in rich mellow soil. + +Lettuce.—Sow again on a warm border and in frames. Plant out in mild +weather any that are fit from frames and hot-beds, first making sure +that they are well hardened. + +Mustard.—It is easy work with a frame to have Mustard at any time; and +many small sowings are better than large ones, which only result in +waste to-day and want to-morrow. + +Onion.—There is still time for sowing seed in boxes preparatory to +planting out in April. + +Parsley to be sown in the latter part of the month. + +Parsnip should be sown as early as possible, on the deepest and best +ground as regards texture; but it need not be on the richest, for if +the roots can push down they will get what they want from the subsoil, +and therefore it is of great importance to put this crop on ground that +was dug twice in the autumn. + +Pea.—Sow early sorts in quantity now, in accordance with probable +requirements; but there will be a loss rather than a gain of time if +they are sown on pasty ground or during bad weather. There are now many +excellent sorts of moderate height, and these give the least trouble in +their management; but a few of the taller varieties still remain in +favour, because of their fine quality. However, there is time yet for +sowing mid-season and late Peas; but the sooner some of the +first-earlies are in, the better. It is customary to sow many rows in a +plot rather close together, but it is better practice to put them so +far apart as to admit of two or three rows of early Potatoes between +every two rows of Peas. This insures abundance of light and air to the +Peas, and the latter are of great value to protect the Potatoes from +May frosts that often kill down the rising shaws. A warm, dry, fertile +soil is needed for first-early Peas. Those already up and in a bad +plight should be dug in and the rows sown again. It is worthy of note +that if Peas are thoroughly pinched and starved by hard weather, they +rarely prove a success; therefore, if they go wrong, sacrifice them +without hesitation and begin again. Where early rows are doing well put +sticks to them at once, as the sticks afford considerable protection, +and the effect may be augmented by strewing on the windward side small +hedge clippings and other light dry stuff. + +Radishes, to be mild, tender, and handsome, must be grown rapidly. If +checked, they become hot, tough, and worthless. Much may be done to +forward a crop by means of dry litter and mats to protect the plants +from frost, removing the protection in favourable weather to give the +crop the fullest possible benefit of air and sunshine. Old worn-out +frames that will scarcely hold together will pay their first cost over +again, with the aid of a little skill, in growing Radishes. + +Rhubarb should be taken up and divided, and planted again in rich moist +soil, every separate piece to have only one good eye. Do not gather +this season from the new plantation, but always have a piece one year +old to supply the kitchen. This method will insure sticks to be proud +of, not only for size, but for colour and flavour. + +Savoys are valued by some when small, and by others they are prized for +size as much as for their excellent flavour when well frosted. Large +Savoys must have a long season of growth; therefore sow as soon as +possible, either in a frame, or on a rich, mellow seedbed, and be ready +to prick them out before they become crowded. + +Sea Kale.—The plantations reserved for latest supplies should not be +covered until they begin to push naturally, and then the coverings must +be put on to blanch the growth effectually. Open-ground Sea Kale may be +uncovered as soon as cut, but a little litter should be left to give +protection and help the young shoots to rise, because after blanching +the cutting is a severe tax on the plant, and it has to begin life +afresh and prepare for the work of the next season. + +Shallot.—When well grown the clumps are bigger than a man’s fist, and +each separate bulb thicker than a walnut. To grow them well they must +have time; so plant early, on rich ground, in rows one foot apart and +the bulbs about nine inches asunder. Press them into the earth deep +enough to hold them firmly, but they are not to be quite buried. + +Spinach.—Sow the Round-seeded plentifully; if overdone the extra crop +can be dug in as manure, and in that way will pay. + +Tomato.—In many gardens the first sowing is made this month, and when +treated fairly, the plants come into bearing in about four months. Use +good porous soil for the seed-pans. Sow very thinly in a temperature of +60° or 65°, and get the plants into thumb pots while they are quite +small. + +Turnip may be sown on warm borders, but it is too early for large +breadths in open quarters. + + +MARCH + +This is the great season for garden work, and the gardener must be up +with the lark and go to bed with the robin, which is the latest of +birds to bid farewell to a sunny day. The first care should be to make +good all arrears, especially in the preparation of seed-beds, and the +cleaning of plots that are in any way disorderly. Where early-sown +crops have evidently failed, sow again without complaining; seed costs +but little, and a good plant is the earnest of a good crop; a bad plant +will probably never pay the rent of the ground it occupies. Keen east +winds may cause immense damage, but a little protection provided in +time will do wonders to ward off their effects, and the sunny days that +are now so welcome, and that we are pretty sure to have, will afford +opportunity for giving air to plants in frames, for clearing away +litter, and for the regular routine work of the season. + +Seed of almost every vegetable grown in the garden may be sown in the +month of March. Make successional sowings of whatever it may be +advisable to put under cover or on heat, and then proceed with +open-ground sowings as weather and circumstances permit. The weather is +the master of outdoor work, and it is sheer waste of time to fight +against it. It is better to wait to the end of the month, or even far +into the next, before sowing a seed than to sow on pasty ground. But it +matters not how dry the ground may be, and if the wind blows keenly, +that should only be an inducement to brisk action; for seeds well sown +have everything in their favour if they are not too early for the +district. Very important indeed it is now to secure a Hot-bed.—To make +one is easy enough, but it is of no use to half make it; for half-acres +in this department do not bear good corn. In the first place, secure a +great bulk of manure, and if it is long and green, turn it two or three +times, taking care that it is always moderately moist, but never +actually wet. If the stuff is too dry, sprinkle with water at every +turn, and let it steam away to take the rankest fire out of it. Then +make it up where required in a square heap, allowing it to settle in +its own way without treading or beating. Put on a foot-depth of light, +rich soil after the frames are in their places, and wait a few days to +sow the seed in case of a great heat rising. When the temperature is +steady and comfortable, sow seeds in pots and pans, as needful, the +quantity required of each separate crop, and stand them on bricks above +the bed, and the heat will then be none too much for them. In the +course of a few days finish the work by putting in a body of earth. Do +not attempt to hurry the growth of anything overmuch, for undue haste +will produce a weak plant; rather give air and light in plenty, but +with care to prevent injurious check, and the plants will be short and +healthy from the first. + +Artichokes, Globe, to be cleared of protecting material as soon as +weather permits, and fresh plantations made ready for suckers to be put +in next month. A new plantation may also be formed by sowing seeds; in +fact, a sowing ought to be made every year. Where early produce is +required, the plants should be protected during winter to supply +suckers in the spring; but, if late supplies suffice, the sowing of a +few rows every year will reduce the labour, and render the production +of Globe Artichokes a very simple affair. + +Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be planted now advantageously. Strong, deep +soil produces the best crop, and large roots are always preferred by +the cook, because of the inevitable waste in preparing this vegetable. +The Jerusalem Artichoke is certainly not properly appreciated, and one +reason is that it is often carelessly grown in any out-of-the-way +starving corner, whereas it needs a sunny, open spot, and a strong, +deep soil, and plenty of room. To hide an ugly fence during summer no +more useful plant is grown. + +Asparagus.—Little attention is required as yet, except to remove every +weed as soon as it can be seen. If the beds are dry, and there are no +indications of coming rain, one good soaking of water or weak sewage +will be very beneficial. Mark out and make beds for sowing seed next +month. + +Bean, Broad.—Plant out those raised in frames, and earth up those from +early sowings that are forward enough. Sow for main crops and late +supplies. In late districts a few of the earliest sorts may be sown to +come in before the Windsor section. + +Beet.—Sow a little seed for an early supply, in well-dug mellow soil. +The crop will need protection in the event of frost. + +Broccoli for autumn use to be sown early; and at the end of the month +sow again in quantity for winter supplies. In mild weather, put out the +plants from the earlier sowings made in frames as soon as they are fit +and well hardened. + +Brussels Sprouts.—Look after the bed sown last month, and sow again for +the main crop. The best possible seed-bed is wanted and a rich +well-tilled soil for the plants when put out. + +Cabbage of two or three kinds should be sown now to supply plants for +filling up as crops are taken off, and also to patch and mend where +failures happen. Where the owner of a garden has opportunities of +helping his poorer neighbours, he may confer a real benefit by +supplying them with Cabbage and Winter Greens for planting in their +garden plots. Cottagers too often begin with bad stocks—very much to +their discouragement in gardening, and to the loss of wholesome food +the garden should supply. The rankest manure may be employed in +preparing ground for Cabbage, reserving the well-rotted manure for +seed-beds and other purposes for which it will be required. A sowing of +Red Cabbage now will insure heads for pickling in autumn. + +Carrot.—Sow one of the quick-growing varieties at the first +opportunity, but wait for signs of settled spring weather to sow the +main crops of large sorts. + +Cauliflower.—Plant out as weather permits from hand-lights and frames, +choosing the best ground for this vegetable. In preparing a plot for +Cauliflower, use plenty of manure; and if it is only half-rotten, it +will be better than if it were old and mellow. + +Celeriac.—So far as seed sowing is concerned, Celeriac may be treated +in the same way as Celery. + +Celery.—For the earliest supply, sow on the first of the month a pinch +of seed of one or more of the smaller red or white sorts on a mild +hot-bed, or in an early vinery. As soon as the plants are large enough +to handle, prick them out three inches apart on a nice mellow bed of +rich soil on a half-spent hot-bed; give them plenty of light, with free +ventilation as weather allows, and constant supplies of water. About +the middle of the month sow again and prick out as before; but if no +hot-bed is available, a well-prepared bed in a frame in a sunny +position will answer; or, if the season is somewhat advanced, a bed of +rotten manure, two or three inches deep, on a piece of hard ground, +will suffice, if the plants are kept regularly watered. From this bed +they will lift with nice roots for planting out, scarcely feeling the +removal at all. + +Chives to be divided and re-planted on a spot which has not previously +been occupied with the crop. + +Cucumber.—The vines should now be in a flourishing condition, but it is +necessary to look forward to the day when they will fall into the sere +and yellow leaf. More seed sown singly in pots will provide a +succession of plants. Re-pot them once or twice if desirable, and when +large enough turn them out between the first lot. As the old plants +fail, the new-comers will supply their places. Setting the bloom, as it +is called, is not only useless, but is a mischievous procedure. It +results in the enlargement of one end of the fruit, and ruins its +appearance. If seed be the object, of course the process is +justifiable; but for the table a ‘bottle nose’ cannot be regarded as an +ornament. Besides, the ripening of seed in a single fruit will +materially diminish the usefulness of the plant, and perhaps entirely +end its career. Stopping the vine is a necessity, but it should not be +done too soon. In the early stage of growth, it reduces the vigour of +the plant and retards its fruiting; but when the fruit is visible, +stopping aids its development and at the same time tends to regulate +and equalise the growth. + +Frame culture of Cucumbers is usually begun in March. There are men who +can produce fruit from hot-beds all the year round, but it is a +difficult task, and as a rule ought not to be expected. At this time of +year, however, success is fairly within reach of ordinary skill. In +quite the early part of the month put seed singly into pots which must +be kept in a warm, moist place. The plants will then be ready for +frames at the end of the month. The most important business is the +preparation of the bed, and in this, as in all else, there is a right +and a wrong way of doing the work. Accurately set out the space on +which it is to be made. If there is plenty of manure, make the bed +large enough to project eighteen inches beyond the lights all round. +But if manure is scarce, cut the margin closer, and trust to a hot +lining when the heat begins to flag. Commence with the outside of the +bed, employing the long stuff in its construction; and keep this part +of the work a little in advance of the centre until the full height is +reached. A bed made in this way will not fall to pieces, and the heat +will be durable in proportion to its size and thickness. Where fallen +leaves are abundant, they should be used for the middle of the bed, and +they will give a more lasting heat than short manure. When the bed has +settled down to a steady temperature, add six or nine inches of mellow +loam over the entire surface, upon which place the frames. To insure +drainage, it is an excellent plan to lay common flake hurdles on the +top of the heap before adding the soil. These do not in the least +interfere with the free running of the roots. It is usual to have two +plants under each light, but where the management is good, one is quite +enough. The subsequent work consists of shading and sheltering, to +prevent any serious check from trying weather, and in giving just water +enough and no more. The fermenting material should sustain the +temperature of the frame, even during frosty nights, and mats will +screen off strong sunshine as well as cold winds. The plants will need +stopping earlier than those grown in houses, and as there are no +hot-pipes to dissipate the moisture, rather less water will be +necessary, both in the soil and from the syringe. But the water +employed should always be of the same temperature as the bed. This is +easily managed by keeping a full can standing with the plants. In large +frames, where there is a good body of manure and the loam is mellow and +turfy, pieces of Mushroom spawn can be inserted all over the bed. The +Mushrooms may appear while the bed is in full bearing; but if they do +not they will come when the plants are cleared out, and pay well to +keep the lights in use another month or so. + +Garlic may still be planted, but no time is to be lost. + +Herbs of many kinds may be sown or divided, and it will be necessary to +look over the Herb quarter and see how things stand for the supplies +that will be required. A little later, excess of work may prevent due +attention to this department. + +Horse-radish to be planted, if not done already. + +Kohl Rabi, or Knol Kohl, to be sown in small quantity at the end of the +month, and onwards to August, as required. If cooked while young, the +bulbs are an excellent substitute for Turnips in a hot, dry season. + +Leek.—Sow the main crop in very rich, well-prepared soil, and rather +thickly, as the seedlings will have to be planted out. With a little +management this sowing will yield a succession of Leeks. + +Lettuce.—Plant out and sow again in quantity. All the kinds may be sown +now, but make sure of enough of the Cos and smaller Cabbage varieties. +In hot, dry soils, where Lettuces usually run to seed early, try some +of the red-leaved kinds, for though less delicate than the green and +white, they will be useful in the event of a scorching summer. Lettuces +require a deep free soil with plenty of manure. + +Melon.—Raise a few seeds singly in pots, in readiness for putting under +frames on hot-beds next month. Re-pot the plants, and repeat the +process if the beds are not ready, for Melons must not be starved, +especially in the early stage of growth. Some growers make up the beds +in March, and sow upon them when the heat becomes steady, but the +practice is somewhat precarious. In a cold, late spring the heat may +not last a sufficient time to carry the plants safely into warm +weather. Hence it is more reliable to raise them now in a warm house, +and make the bed at the beginning of April. + +Onion.—The plants already raised in boxes to be removed to cold frames. +If necessary, they should be pricked off into other boxes in order to +avoid overcrowding. Keep the frames close at first, but give air with +increasing freedom as the time approaches for transfer to the open +ground. Sow the main crop in drills nine inches apart, and tread or +beat the ground firm. This crop requires a rich soil in a thoroughly +clean and mellow condition, and it makes a capital finish to the +seed-bed to give it a good coat of charred rubbish or smother ash +before sowing the seed. + +Parsnip.—Sow main crop in shallow drills eighteen inches apart in good +soil deeply dug. The seed should be lightly covered, and new seed is +indispensable. + +Pea.—Sow the finest sorts of the Marrowfat class. Take care to put them +on the best seed-bed that can be made, and allow sufficient room +between the taller sorts for a few rows of Cabbage, Broccoli, or +Potatoes. A crowded quarter of Peas is never satisfactory; the rows +smother each other, and the shaded parts of the haulm produce next to +nothing. + +Potato.—A small quantity for early use should be planted at the opening +of the month when the ground is dry and the weather soft. If planted +when frost or cold winds prevail, sets may become somewhat shrivelled +before they are covered, and every care should be taken to prevent such +a check to the initial vigour of the plant. The first-early sorts will +necessarily have the chief attention now, and warm sheltered spots +should be selected for them. Any fairly good soil will produce a +passable crop of Potatoes; but to secure a first-class sample of any +early sort, the ground should be made up with the aid of turfy soil and +charrings of hedge clippings and other light, warm, nourishing +material. Strong manures are not to be desired, but a mellow, kindly, +fertile soil is really necessary, and it will always pay well to take +extra pains in its preparation, because all the light rubbish that +accumulates in yards and outhouses can be turned to account with only a +moderate amount of labour, and the result of careful appropriation of +such rubbish will be thoroughly satisfactory. Burn all the chips and +sticks and other stubborn stuff, and lay the mixture in the trenches +when planting, so that the roots may find it at their first start. As +the Potato disease does not usually appear until late in summer, early +planting is a safe precaution, for it insures early ripening of the +crop. The planting of main crops may commence towards the end of March +and be completed during April, according to the locality and the +condition of the soil. + +Radish.—From March to September make successive sowings in the coolest +place that can be found for them. + +Scorzonera to be treated much the same as Salsify. See note on the +latter under April. + +Sea Kale to be sown in well-prepared beds; or plantations may be made +of the smaller roots of the thickness of a lead pencil, and about four +inches in length. Plant them top end uppermost, and deep enough to be +just covered. + +Spinach.—Sow in plenty. The Perpetual or Spinach Beet should not be +forgotten. This is one of the most useful vegetables known, as it +endures heat and cold with impunity, and when common Spinach is running +to seed the Perpetual variety remains green and succulent, and fit to +supply the table all the summer long. + +Spinach, New Zealand, is another excellent vegetable in high summer +when the Round-seeded variety is worthless. The plant is rather tender, +and for an early supply the seed must be sown in moderate heat, either +in this month or in April. When large enough, get the seedlings into +small pots, and gradually harden them before planting in the open about +the end of May. + +Strawberries.—Spring is undoubtedly preferable to autumn for planting, +and results in a finer crop of fruit in the following year. Just as +growth is commencing is the most favourable time, and this, of course, +depends on the character of the season. Alpine Strawberries may be sown +outdoors this month or in September for fruiting in the succeeding +year. + +Tomato.—In ordinary seasons and in the southern counties there is no +difficulty in producing handsome Tomatoes in the open border; but to +ripen the fruit with certainty it is imperative that an early variety +be chosen. With the rise of latitude, however, the crop becomes +increasingly precarious, until in the North it is impossible to finish +Tomatoes without the aid of glass. For plants which are to ripen fruit +in the open, a sowing should be made early in the month, in the manner +advised under January. Plants which are ready should be transferred to +small thumb pots. Put them in so that the first leaves touch the rim of +the pot, and place them in a close frame or warm part of the greenhouse +for a few days until the roots take hold. To save them from becoming +leggy, give each plant ample space, and avoid a forcing temperature. A +shelf in a greenhouse is a good position, and plants in a single row +upon it will grow stout and short-jointed. Thrips and aphis are +extremely partial to Tomatoes. Frequent sprinklings in bright weather +will help to keep down the former, and will at the same time benefit +the plants. Both pests can be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco, and +when the remedy is to be applied water should be withheld on that day. +A moderate amount of smoke in the evening and another application in +the morning will be more destructive to the vermin, and less injurious +to the plants, than one strong dose. The usual syringing must follow. +Plants for the open ground must not be starved while in pots; they will +need potting on until the 4-1/2-inch or 6-inch size is reached, and it +is important that they should never be dry at the roots. Shading will +only be necessary during fierce sunshine; in early morning and late in +the afternoon they will be better without it. + +Water Cress.—It is quite a mistake to suppose that a running stream is +requisite for growing this plant, and it is equally a mistake to +suppose that the proper flavour can be secured without the constant use +of water. Sow in a trench, water regularly and copiously, and mild and +tender Water Cress will reward the labour. + +Winter Greens of all kinds to be sown in plenty and in considerable +variety; for in the event of a severe winter some kinds will prove +hardier than others. + + +APRIL + +Vegetation is now in full activity, the temperature increases rapidly, +frosts are less frequent, and showers and sunshine alternate in their +mutual endeavours to clothe the earth with verdure and flowers. The +gardener is bound to be vigilant now to assist Nature in her endeavours +to benefit him; he must promote the growth of his crops by all the +means in his power; by plying the hoe to keep down weeds and open the +soil to sunshine and showers; by thinning and regulating his +plantations, that air and light may have free access to the plants left +to attain maturity; by continuing to shelter as may be needed; and by +administering water during dry weather, that vegetation may benefit to +the utmost by the happy accession of increasing sunlight. + +Artichoke, Globe.—Suckers to be put in the plantations prepared for +them last month, in rows three to four feet apart each way. + +Asparagus.—- Rake off into the alleys the remnant of manure from the +autumn dressing, and as soon as the weather is favourable give the beds +a light application of salt. If new beds are required, there must be no +time lost either to sow seed or get in plants. Our advice to those who +require only one small plantation is to form it by planting strong +roots; but those who intend to grow Asparagus largely may sow down a +bed every year, until they have enough, and then leave well alone; for +a bed properly made will last ten years at the very least, if taken +care of. It has been clearly demonstrated that this much-esteemed +vegetable may be grown to perfection in any garden with little more +expense than attends other crops, provided only that a reasonable +amount of skill is brought to bear upon the undertaking. A deep, rich, +sandy loam suits it. Dig in a good body of manure, and provide a mellow +seed-bed. This being done, care must be taken to sow thinly, and, in +due time, to thin severely; for a crowded plant will never supply fat +sticks. Beds may be made by planting roots instead of sowing seeds, but +the roots must be fresh, or they will not prosper. The advantage of +using plants is that ‘grass’ may be cut earlier than when produced from +seed. + +Bean, Broad.—- Sowings may be made until the middle of this month, +after which time they are not likely to pay, especially on hot soils. +It is customary to top Beans when in flower, and the practice has its +advantages. In case the black fly takes possession, topping is a +necessity, for the insect can only subsist on the youngest leaves at +the top of the plant, and the process pretty well clears them away. + +Beans, Dwarf French, may be sown outdoors at the end of the month, but +not in quantity, because of the risk of destruction by frost. Much may +be done, however, to expedite the supply of this popular vegetable, and +sowings in boxes placed in gentle heat or under the protection of a +frame will furnish plants which may be gradually hardened off for +transfer to the open in May. In proportion to the means at command, +early sowings outdoors will live or die, as determined by the weather, +although a very little protection is sufficient to carry the young +plants through a bad time in the event of late frosts and storms. But +sowings made at the end of the month will probably prosper. + +Bean, Climbing French.—Sowings of the Climbing French Bean may be made +this month as directed for the Dwarf French class: the earliest in +gentle heat for transplanting, and later on in open quarters for +succession crops. + +Beet.—At quite the end of the month sow in drills, a foot or fifteen +inches apart, on deep, well-dug ground, without manure. Large Beets are +not desired for the kitchen; but rather small, deeply coloured, +handsome roots are always valued, and these can only be grown in soil +that has been stirred to a good depth, and is quite free of recent +manuring. + +Broccoli.—Make another sowing of several sorts, giving preference as +yet to the early varieties. In particularly late districts, and, +perhaps, pretty generally in the North, the late Broccoli should be +sown now, but in the Midlands and the South there is time to spare for +sowing. Be particular to have a good seed-bed, that the plants may grow +well from the first; if the early growth be starved, the plants become +the victims of club and other ruinous maladies. + +Brussels Sprouts.—In many households late supplies of Brussels Sprouts +are much valued, and as the crop is capable of enduring severe weather, +a supplemental sowing should always be made during this month. Rich +soil and plenty of room are essential. + +Cabbage.—Sow the larger kinds for autumn use, and one or two rows of +the smaller kinds for planting in odd places as early crops are cleared +off. Cows, pigs, and poultry will always dispose of surplus Cabbage +advantageously, so there can be no serious objection to keeping up a +constant succession. Plant out from seed-beds as fast as the plants +become strong enough, for stifling and starving tend to club, mildew, +and blindness. Where Red Cabbage is in demand for use with game in +autumn, seed should be sown now. + +Cardoons to be sown on land heavily manured in rows three or four feet +apart, the seeds in clumps of three each, eighteen inches apart. They +are sometimes sown in trenches, but we do not approve of that system, +for they do not require moisture to the extent of Celery, and the +blanching can be effectually accomplished without it. Our advice is to +plant on the level, unless the ground is particularly dry and hot, and +then trenches will be of great service in promoting free growth. To +insure their proper flavour, Cardoons must be large and fat. + +Carrot.—Sow the main crops and put them on deeply dug ground without +manure. + +Cauliflowers to be planted out at every opportunity, warm, showery +weather being most favourable. If cold weather should follow, a large +proportion of the plants will be destroyed unless protected, and there +is no cheaper protection than empty flower-pots, which may be left on +all day, as well as all night, in extreme cases when a killing east +wind is blowing. Sow now for late summer and autumn use, prick the +plants out early to save buttoning, and they will make a quick return. + +Celery.—Sow in a warm corner of the open ground on a bed consisting +largely of rotten manure. It may happen in a good season that this +outdoor sowing will prove the most successful, as it will have no check +from first to last, and will be in just the right state for planting +out when the ground is ready for it after Peas and other early crops. +If Celery suffers a serious check at any time, it is apt to make hollow +stems, and then the quality is poor, no matter to what size the sticks +may attain. Prick out the plants from seed-pans on to a bed of rotten +manure, resting on a hard bottom, in frames or in sheltered nooks, and +look after them with extra care for a week or two. Good Celery cannot +be grown by the haphazard gardener. + +Endive.—Sow a small quantity in moderate heat for the first supply, in +drills six inches apart, and when an inch high prick out on to a bed of +rich light soil. + +Herbs.—Chervil, Fennel, Hyssop, and other flavouring and medicinal +Herbs, may be sown now better than at any other time, as they will +start at once into full growth, and need little after-care other than +thinning and weeding. Rich soil is not required, but the position must +be dry and sunny. + +Leek to be sown again if the former sowing is insufficient or has +failed. + +Lettuce to be sown for succession, the quick-growing, tender-hearted +kinds being the best to sow now. Plant out from frames and seed-pans. A +few forward plants may be tied, but as a rule tying is less desirable +than most people suppose. Certainly, after tying, the hearts soon rot +if not quickly eaten; and Lettuces as fine as can be desired may now be +grown without tying, the close-hearting sorts being very much improved +in that respect. + +Melon.—Sow again for a second crop in houses, and grow the plants in +pots until they reach a foot high. The early crop will then be ripe, +and the house can be cleared and syringed for a fresh start. From this +sowing fruit should be ready about the beginning of July. The frame +culture advised for Cucumbers will be right for Melons, until the +fruits attain the size of a small orange. Then a thorough soaking must +be given, and under proper management no more water should be +necessary. A dry atmosphere and free ventilation are essential to bring +the fruit to perfection. Stopping must be commenced early by pinching +out the leader, and only one eye should be allowed beyond the fruit +which are to remain. Six will be enough for one plant to carry, and +they should be nearly of a size, for if one obtains a strong lead, it +will be impossible to ripen the others. The remainder should be +gradually removed while young. The worst foe of the Melon is red +spider, and it is difficult to apply a remedy without doing mischief. +Water will destroy it, but this may have disastrous results on the +fruit. The most certain preventive is stout well-grown plants. Weakly +specimens appear to invite attack, and are incapable of struggling +against it. Where plants are occasionally lost through decay at the +collar, small pieces of charcoal laid in a circle round the stem have +proved a simple and effectual antidote. + +Onion.—The plants raised under glass in January or February should be +ready for planting out on some favourable day about mid-April. If any +mishap has befallen the sowings made in the open in March there must be +no delay in resowing early in the present month, for Onions should have +good hold of the ground before hot weather comes. Onions for pickling +should be grown thickly on poor ground made firm. The plants are not to +be thinned, but may be allowed to stand as thick as pebbles on the +seashore. The starving system produces abundance of small handsome +bulbs that ripen early, which are the very things wanted for pickling. +The Queen and Paris Silver-skin are adapted for the purpose. + +Parsley to be sown in quantity for summer and autumn supply; thin as +soon as up, to give each plant plenty of room. + +Peas to be sown again for succession. + +Potato.—Take the earliest opportunity of completing the planting of +main crops. + +Salsify.—This delicious root, which is sometimes designated the +‘Vegetable Oyster,’ requires a piece of ground deeply trenched, with a +thick layer of manure at the bottom of the trench, and not a particle +of manure in the body of soil above it. The roots strike down into the +manure, and attain a good size combined with fine quality. If +carelessly grown, they become forked and fibrous, and are much wasted +in the cooking, besides being of inferior flavour. Sow in rows fifteen +inches apart, any time from the end of March to the beginning of May. +Two sowings will generally suffice. + +Spinach.—Sow the Long-standing variety, which does not run so soon as +the ordinary kind. If a plantation of Spinach Beet has not been +secured, sow at once, as there is ample time yet for a free growth and +a valuable plant. + +Turnip to be sown in quantity. + +Vegetable Marrow.—An early sowing to be made in pots, in readiness for +planting out immediately weather admits of it. Three plants in a pot +are enough, and they must not be weakened by excessive heat. + +Winter Greens.—A sowing of Borecole should be made, and if a supply is +required in spring, it will be well to sow again in the first week of +May. + + +MAY + +High-Pressure times continue, for the heat increases daily, and the +season of production is already shortened by two months. The most +pressing business is to repair all losses, for even now, if affairs +have gone wrong, it is possible to get up a stock of Winter Greens, and +to sow all the sorts of seeds that should have been sown in March and +April, with a reasonable chance of profitable results. It must not be +expected, however, that the most brisk and skilful can overtake those +who have been doing well from the first dawn of spring, and who have +not omitted to sow a single seed at the proper time from the day when +seed-sowing became requisite. The heat of the earth is now sufficient +to start many seeds into growth that are customarily sown in heat a +month or two earlier; and, therefore, those who cannot make hot-beds +may grow many choice things if they will be content to have them a week +or two later than their more fortunate neighbours. In sowing seeds of +the more tender subjects, such as Capsicums, Marrows, and Cucumbers, it +will be better to lose a few days, in order to make sure of the result +desired, rather than to be in undue haste and have the seed destroyed +by heavy rains, or the young plants nipped off by frost. Do not, +therefore, sow any of these seeds in the open ground until the weather +is somewhat settled and sunny, for if they meet with any serious check +they will scarcely recover during the whole of the season. + +Asparagus in seed-beds to be thinned as soon as possible, so that +wherever two or three plants rise together, the number should be +reduced to one. But there is time yet for seedlings to appear. The +bearing beds are more attractive, for they show their toothsome tops. +The cutting must be done in a systematic manner, and if practicable +always by the same person. It is better to cut all the shoots as fast +as they attain a proper size, and sort them for use according to +quality, rather than to pick and choose the fat shoots and throw the +whole plantation into disorder. Green-topped Asparagus is in favour in +this country; but those who prefer it blanched have simply to earth it +up sufficiently, and cut below the surface, taking care to avoid +injuring the young shoots which have not pushed through. It is not for +us to decide on any matter of individual taste, but we will give a word +of practical advice that may be of value to many. It is not the custom +to protect Asparagus in open beds, but it should be; for the keen +frosts that often occur when the sticks are rising destroy a large +number. This may be prevented by covering with any kind of light, dry +litter, which will not in the least interfere with that full greening +of the tops which English people generally prefer, because the light +and air will reach the plant; but the edge of the frost will be blunted +by the litter. If there is nothing at hand for this purpose, let a man +go round with the sickle and cut a lot of long grass from the rough +parts of the shrubbery, and put a light handful over every crown in the +bed. The sticks will rise with the litter upon them like nightcaps, and +will be plump and green and unhurt by frost. + +Bean, Dwarf French.—The main crops should be got in this month, and +successional sowings may be made until the early part of July. Dwarf +Beans are but seldom allowed as much space as they require, and the +rows therefore should be thinned early, for crowded plants never bear +so well as those that enjoy light and air on all sides. In Continental +cookery a good dish is made of the Beans shelled out when about half +ripe. These being served in rich gravy, are at once savoury and +wholesome. Almost all the varieties of the Dwarf and Climbing sections +may be used in this way, and the Beans should be gathered when full +grown, but not yet ripe. The self-coloured varieties are also grown for +use as dry Haricots, in which case the pods should not be removed until +perfectly ripe. + +Bean, Climbing French.—Sow this month for the main crop, and onwards +until June according to requirements. In a general way the treatment +usual for Runners will answer well for outdoor crops of the Climbing +French Bean. + +Bean, Runner.—In the open ground sowings may be made as soon as +conditions appear safe, but it is well to sow again at the end of the +month or in June. + +Beet.—The main crop should be sown in the early part of the month. Thin +and weed the early sown, and if the ground has been suitably prepared, +it will be needless to give water to this crop. As Beet is not wanted +large, it is not advisable to sow any great breadth until the beginning +of May, or it is liable to become coarse. + +Broccoli to be sown for succession. Plant out from frames and forward +seed-beds at every opportunity. About the middle of the month sow for +cutting in May and June of next year. + +Brussels Sprouts.—For the sake of a few fine buttons in the first +dripping days of autumn, when Peas and Runners and Marrows are gone, +put out as soon as possible some of the most forward plants, giving +them a rich soil and sunny position. + +Cabbage.—Plant out from seed-beds at every opportunity, choosing, if +possible, the advent of showery weather. Sow the smaller sorts and +Coleworts, especially in favoured districts where there is usually no +check to vegetation until the turn of the year. + +Capsicum can be sown out of doors about the middle of the month, and +nice green pods for pickling may be secured in the autumn. + +Carrot.—Thin the main crops early, and sow a few rows of Champion Horn +or Intermediate, for use in a small state during late summer, when they +make an elegant and delicate dish. + +Cauliflowers must have water in dry weather; they are the most hungry +and thirsty plants in the garden, but pay well for good living. Plant +out from frames as fast as ready, for they do no good to stand crowded +and starving. + +Celery trenches must be prepared in time, though, strange to say, this +task is generally deferred until the plants have really become weak +through overcrowding. In a small garden it is never advisable to have +Celery very forward, for the simple reason that trenches cannot be made +for it until Peas come off and other early crops are over. To insure +fine Celery the cultivator must be in advance of events rather than lag +behind them. Plenty of manure must be used; it is scarcely possible, in +fact, to employ too much, and liberality is not waste, because the +ground will be in capital condition for the next crop. There are many +modes of planting Celery, but the simplest is to make the trenches four +feet apart and a foot and a half wide, and put the plants six to nine +inches apart, according to the sorts. This work must be done neatly, +with an artistic finish. In planting take off suckers, and if any of +the leaves are blistered, pinch the blisters, and finish by dusting the +plantation with soot. As Celery loves moisture, give water freely in +dry weather. + +Cucumbers of excellent quality may be grown on ridges or hills, should +the season be favourable. Suppose the cultivator to have the means of +obtaining plenty of manure, ridges, which are to run east and west, are +preferable to hills. The soil should be thrown out three feet wide and +two feet deep, and be laid up on the north side. Then put three feet of +hot manure in the trench, and cover with the soil that was taken out, +so as to form an easy slope to the south, and with a steep slope on the +north side carefully finished to prevent its crumbling down before the +season ends. The plants should be put out on the slope as soon as +possible after the ridges are made ready, under the protection of +hand-lights, until there is free growth and the weather has become +quite summery. It is a good plan to grow one or two rows of Runner +Beans a short distance from the ridge on the north side to give +shelter, and in case of bad weather after the plants are in bearing, +pea-sticks or dry litter laid about them lightly will help them through +a critical time, but stable manure must not be used. In case manure is +not abundant, make a few small hills in a sheltered, sunny spot, with +whatever material is available in the way of turf, rotten manure, or +leaf-mould, taking care that nothing injurious to vegetation is mixed +with it. Put several inches of a mixture of good loam and rotten manure +on the hills, and plant and protect as in the case of ridges. If plants +are not at hand, sow seeds; there will still be a chance of Cucumbers +during July, August, and September; for if they thrive at all, they are +pretty brisk in their movements. Three observations remain to be made +on this subject. In the first place, what are known as ‘Ridge’ +Cucumbers only should be grown in the open air; the large sorts grown +in houses are unfit. In the second place, the plants should only be +pinched once, and there is no occasion for the niggling business which +gardeners call ‘setting the bloom.’ Provide for their roots a good bed, +and then let them grow as they please. In the third place, as +encouragement, we feel bound to say that, as Cucumbers are grown to be +eaten as well as to be looked at, those from ridges are less handsome +than house Cucumbers, but are quite equal to them in flavour. + +Dandelion somewhat resembles the Endive, and is one of the earliest and +most wholesome additions to the salad-bowl. Sow now and again in June, +in drills one foot asunder, and thin out the plants to one foot apart +in the rows. These will be ready for use in the following winter and +spring. + +Gourd and Pumpkin.—An early show of fruit necessitates raising seeds +under glass for planting on prepared beds, and the plants must be +protected by means of lights or any other arrangement that can be +improvised as a defence against late frosts. Of course the seeds can be +sown upon the actual bed, but it is a loss of time. The rapidity with +which the plants grow is a sufficient indication that generous feeding +and copious supplies of water in dry weather are imperative. + +Lettuce.—Sow for succession where the plants are to remain, and plant +out the earlier sowings at every opportunity. To insure a quick growth, +and prevent the plants from running to seed, extra care in giving water +and shade will be necessary after transplanting. The larger Cabbage +Lettuces will prove useful if sown now. + +Maize and Sugar Corn may be grown in this country as an ornament to the +garden, and also for the green cobs which are used as a vegetable. Sow +early in the month on rich light soil, and in a hot season, especially +when accompanied by moisture, there will be rapid growth. The cobs to +be gathered for cooking when of full size, but while quite green. + +Melon.—It is not too late to grow Melons in frames, provided a start +can be made with strong plants. + +Pea.—Sow Peas again if there is any prospect of a break in the supply. +It is a good plan to prepare trenches as for Celery, but less deep, and +sow Peas in them, as the trenches can be quickly filled with water in +case of dry weather, and the vigorous growth will be proof against +mildew. + +Savoy sown now will produce small useful hearts for winter use. By many +these small hearts will be preferred to large ones, as more delicate, +and therefore a sowing of Tom Thumb may be advised. + +Spinach, New Zealand, can be sown in the open ground in the early part +of this month and should be thinned to about a yard apart. The growth +somewhat resembles that of the Ice Plant. The tender young tops are +pinched off for cooking, and they make an elegant Spinach, which is +free from bitterness, and is therefore acceptable to many persons who +object to the sooty flavour of ordinary Spinach. + +Tomato.—By the third week in May the plants for the open border should +be hardened. In a cold pit or frame they may be gradually exposed until +the lights can be left off altogether, even at night. A thick layer of +ashes at the bottom of the frame will insure drainage and keep off +vermin. If the plants are allowed plenty of space, and are well +managed, they will possess dark, healthy foliage, needing no support +from sticks until they are in final quarters. Do not put them out +before the end of the month or the beginning of June, and choose a +quiet day for the work. If possible, give them a sunny spot under the +shelter of a wall having a southern or western aspect. On a stiff soil +it is advisable to plant on ridges, and not too deeply; for deep +planting encourages strong growth, and strong growth defers the +production of fruit. Tomatoes are sometimes grown in beds, and then it +is necessary to give them abundant room. For branched plants three feet +between the plants in the rows, and the rows four feet apart, will +afford space for tying and watering. Each plant should have the support +of a stout stake firmly fixed in the soil, and rising four feet above +it; and once a week at least the tying should be attended to. As to +stopping, the centre stem should be allowed to grow until the early +flowers have set. It is from these early flowers that outdoor Tomatoes +can be successfully ripened, and the removal of the main shoot delays +their production. But after fifteen or twenty fruits are visible the +top of the leading stem may be shortened to the length of the stake. +The fruiting branches should also be kept short beyond the fruit, and +large leaves must be shortened to allow free access of sunshine. Should +the single-stem system be adopted, three feet between the rows and two +feet between plants in the rows will suffice. On a light soil and in +dry weather weak liquid manure may, with advantage, be alternated with +pure water, but this practice must not be carried far enough to make +the plants gross, or ripening will be delayed. Fruit intended for +exhibition must be selected with judgment, and with this end in view +four to six specimens of any large variety will be sufficient for one +plant to bring to perfection. + +Turnip to be sown for succession. It is well now to keep to the small +white early sorts. + +Vegetable Marrow.—In cottage gardens luxuriant vines may every year be +seen trailing over the sides of heaps of decayed turf or manure. All +forward vegetables are prized, and Marrows are no exception to the +rule. An early supply from the open ground is most readily insured by +raising strong plants in pots and putting them on rich warm beds as +early as the season and district will permit. Late frosts must be +guarded against by some kind of protection, and slugs must be deterred +from eating up the plants. + + +JUNE + +To some extent the crops will now take care of themselves, and we may +consider the chief anxieties and activities of the season over. Our +notes, therefore, will be more brief. We do not counsel the cultivator +to ‘rest and be thankful.’ It is better for him to work, but he must be +thankful all the same, if he would be happy in his healthy and +entertaining employment. Watering and weeding are the principal labours +of this month, and both must be pursued with diligence. But ordinary +watering, where every drop has to be dipped and carried, is often +injurious rather than beneficial, for the simple reason that it is only +half done. In such cases it is advisable to withhold water as long as +possible, and then to give it in abundance, watering only a small plot +every day in order to saturate the ground, and taking a week or more to +go over a piece which would be done in a day by mere surface +dribblings. + +Asparagus should be in full supply, and may be cut until the middle or +end of the month. When cutting should cease depends on the district. In +the South of England the 14th is about the proper time to make the last +cut; north of the Trent, the 20th may be soon enough; and further +north, cutting may be continued into July. The point to be borne in +mind is that the plant must be allowed time to grow freely without any +further check, in order to store up energy for making robust shoots +next year. It is a good plan to insert stakes, such as are used for +Peas, in Asparagus beds, to give support to the green growth against +gales of wind; for when the stems are snapped by storms, as they often +are, the roots lose their aid, and are weakened for their future work. + +Beans, both Dwarf and Runner, may be sown about the middle of the +month, to supply tender pods when those from the early sowings are +past. A late crop of Runners will pay well almost anywhere, for they +bear until the frost cuts them down, which may not happen until far +into November. + +Broccoli.—- Take advantage of showers to continue planting out. + +Cabbage.—Towards the end of the month sow a good breadth of small +Cabbages and Coleworts. They will be immensely valuable to plant out as +the summer crops are cleared away. + +Capsicums may be planted out in a sunny sheltered spot. + +Cauliflowers that are transferred now from seed-beds must have +plentiful supplies of water, and be shaded during midday for a week. +When the heads are visible it is customary to snap one of the inner +leaves over them for protection. + +Celery to be planted out without loss of time, in showery weather if +possible; but if the weather is hot and dry, shade the plants and give +water. The work must be well done, hence it is advisable to lift no +more plants than can be quickly dealt with, for exposure tends to +exhaustion, and Celery ought never to suffer a check in even the +slightest degree. When planted, dust lightly with soot or wood-ashes. +Pea-sticks laid across the trenches will give shade enough with very +little trouble. + +Chicory.—This wholesome esculent is used in a variety of ways, and is +very much prized in some households. The blanched heads make an +acceptable accompaniment to cheese, and are much appreciated for +salading; they may also be stewed and served with melted butter in the +same manner as Sea Kale. To grow large clean roots a deep rich soil is +required. If manure must be added, use that which is well decayed, and +bury it at least twelve inches, for near the surface it will produce +fanged roots. Prepare the seed-bed as for Parsnips, sow in drills +twelve inches apart, and thin the plants to nine inches in the rows. In +October the roots will be ready for lifting, preparatory to being +packed in dark quarters for blanching. + +Cucumbers for Pickling may be sown on ridges. + +Endive is not generally wanted while good Lettuces abound, but it takes +the place of Lettuce in autumn and winter, when the more delicate +vegetable is scarce. Sow in shallow drills six inches apart. Thin the +plants, and transfer the thinnings to rich light soil. They must be +liberally grown on well-manured land, with the aid of water in dry +weather. + +Lettuce to be sown and planted at every opportunity. A few rows of +large Cos varieties should be sown in trenches prepared as for Celery, +there to be thinned and allowed to stand. They will form fine hearts, +and be valued at a time when Lettuces are scarce. + +Melon.—For a final crop in houses sow as previously directed, and grow +the plants on in pots, until the house can be cleared of the former set +for their reception. The growth should be pushed forward to insure ripe +fruit before the end of September. In the event of dull weather at the +finish, there will be all the greater need of abundant but judicious +ventilation, and of a warm dry atmosphere at night. Before they become +heavy every fruit should have the support of nets or thin pieces of +board suspended by wires from the corners. + +Mushrooms may be prepared for now. The first step towards success is to +accumulate a long heap of horse-droppings with the least possible +amount of litter. Let this ferment moderately, and turn it two or three +times, always making a long heap of it, which keeps down the +fermentation. When the fire is somewhat taken out of it, make up the +bed with a mixture of about four parts of the fermented manure and one +part of turfy loam, well incorporated. Beat the stuff together with the +flat of the spade as the work proceeds, fashioning the bed in the form +of a ridge about three feet wide at the base, and of any length that +may be convenient. Give the work a neat finish, or the Mushrooms will +certainly not repay you. Put in rather large lumps of spawn when the +bed is nicely warm, cover with a thin layer of fine soil, and protect +with mats or clean straw. This is a quick and easy way of growing +Mushrooms, and by commencing now the season is all before one. Nine +times in ten, people begin preparations for Mushroom growing about a +month too late, for the spawn runs during the hot weather, and the crop +rises when the moderate autumnal temperature sets in. + +Onions to be sown for salading. Forward beds of large sorts to be +thinned in good time. The best Onions for keeping are those of moderate +size, perfectly ripened; therefore the thinning should not be too +severe. + +Peas may still be sown, and as the season advances preference should be +given to quick-growing early varieties. + +Turnips may be sown in variety and in quantity after Midsummer Day. Sow +on well-prepared ground, and put a sprinkle of artificial manure in the +drills with the seed. By hastening the early growth of the plant the +fly is kept in check. + + +JULY + +For gardeners July is in one respect like January; everything depends +on the weather. It may be hot, with frequent heavy rains, and +vegetation in the most luxuriant growth; or the earth may be iron and +the heavens brass, with scarcely a green blade to be seen. The light +flying showers that usually occur in July do not render watering +unnecessary; in fact, a heavy soaking of a crop after a moderate +rainfall is a valuable aid to its growth, for it requires a +long-continued heavy downpour to penetrate to the roots. + +Summer-sown Vegetables for Autumn and Winter use. As the month advances +early crops will be finished and numerous plots of ground become +vacant. In many gardens it is now the practice to sow in July and +August seeds of quick-growing varieties of Vegetables and Salads to +furnish supplies through the autumn and early winter months, and this +system is strongly to be commended. These sowings not only increase the +cropping capacity of the garden but they extend the use of many +favourite Vegetables which from spring sowings customarily cease at the +end of summer. Two things are essential to success. _Early-maturing +varieties only should be sown and the plants must be thinned +immediately they appear (thus avoiding transplanting), so that they +receive no check in growth._ The following subjects are especially +suited for the purpose: Dwarf French Beans (sow early in July), Beet, +Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower (sow early in July), Italian Corn Salad, +Cress, Endive, Kohl Rabi, Lettuce, Onion, Parsley, Peas, Radish, +Spinach, and Turnip. Potatoes may also be planted in July, but only +tubers of early varieties saved from the preceding year should be used. + +Garden Rubbish is apt to accumulate in odd corners and become +offensive. The stumps of Cabbages and Cauliflowers give off most +obnoxious odours, and neighbours ought not to be annoyed by want of +thought in one particular garden. The short and easy way with all soft +decaying rubbish is to put it at the bottom of a trench when preparing +land for planting. There it ceases to be a nuisance and becomes a +valuable manure. + +Beans.—A few Dwarf French Beans may still be sown to extend outdoor +crops to the latest possible date. For autumn and winter supplies +sowings of the Dwarf and Climbing classes may be made from mid-July to +mid-September, the dwarfs in cold frames and the climbers on narrow +borders in any house that can be spared for the purpose. + +Broccoli to be planted out as before; many of the plants left over from +former plantings will now be stout and strong, and make useful +successions. + +Cabbage.—The sowing of Cabbage seed at this period of the year entails +consequences of such grave importance as to merit reconsideration. When +the crop has passed the winter there is a danger that the plants may +bolt, instead of forming hearts. In the great majority of such cases +the loss is attributable to an unwise selection of sorts. For sowing in +spring there is quite a long list of varieties, many of them possessing +distinctive qualities which meet various requirements. It is otherwise +now. The Cabbages that can be relied on to finish well in spring are +comparatively few in number. But repeated experiments have demonstrated +that loss and disappointment can be avoided by sowing only those +varieties which show no tendency to bolt. Another, but minor, cause of +Cabbages starting seed-stems is premature sowing. The exact date for +any district must be determined by the latitude and the aspect of the +place. In the North sowing will, of necessity, be earlier than in the +Midlands or the South. Assuming, however, that suitable varieties are +chosen, the whole difficulty can be disposed of, even on soils where +Cabbages show an unusual tendency to send up seed-stems prematurely, by +sowing in August instead of in July. The seed-bed should be nicely +prepared, and any old plaster, or other rubbish containing lime, should +be dug in. Sow thinly, for a thick sowing makes a weak plant, no matter +how severely it may be thinned afterwards. + +Cardoons to be thinned to one plant in each station, and that, of +course, the strongest. + +Carrot.—Frame culture of small sorts should commence, to produce a +succession of young Carrots for table. + +Celery to be planted out in showery weather. It is too late to sow now, +except for soups, and for that purpose only a small sowing should be +made, as it may not come to anything. + +Chards.—Those who care for Chards must cut down a number of Globe +Artichokes about six inches above ground, and, if necessary, keep the +plants well watered to induce new growth, which will be ready for +blanching in September. + +Cucumbers on ridges generally do well without water, but they must not +be allowed to suffer from drought. If watering must be resorted to, +make sure first of soft water well warmed by exposure to the sun, and +water liberally three or four evenings in succession, and then give no +more for a week or so. + +Endive to be sown for winter. It will be well to make two sowings, say +on the first and last days of the month. + +Garlic and Shallots to be taken up in suitable weather, and it may be +necessary to complete the ripening under shelter. + +Leeks to be planted out; and on dry soils, in trenches prepared as for +Celery. + +Parsley to be sown for winter use. It is a most important matter, even +in the smallest garden, to have a constant supply. + +Peas.—Only quick-growing early varieties should be sown now. + +Potatoes.—Where there is a good crop of an early variety it should be +lifted without waiting for the shaws to die down. The tender skins will +suffer damage if the work is done roughly, but will soon harden, and +the stock will ripen in the store as perfectly as in the ground. It +needs some amount of courage to lift Potatoes while the tops are still +green and vigorous, and it should not be done until the roots are fully +grown and beginning to ripen. Quick-growing sorts may be planted to dig +as new Potatoes later in the year. + +Radish.—Sow the large-growing kinds for winter use. + +Spinach.—Sow the Prickly-seeded to stand the winter, selecting for the +seed-bed ground lying high and dry that has been at least twice dug +over and has had no recent manure. The twice digging is to promote the +destruction of the ‘Spinach Moth’ grub, which the robins and thrushes +will devour when exposed by digging. These grubs make an end of many a +good breadth of Winter Spinach every year, and are the more to be +feared by the careless cultivator. + +Turnips to be sown in quantity in the early part of the month; thin +advancing crops, and keep the hoe in action amongst them. + +Winter Greens of all kinds to be planted out freely in the best ground +at command, after a good digging, and to be aided with water for a week +or so should the weather be dry. + + +AUGUST + +The importance of summer-sown Vegetables and Salads is dealt with under +July, and seeds of most of the subjects there named may still be put in +as ground becomes vacant. The supplies of the garden during the next +winter and spring will in great part depend upon good management now, +and the utmost must be made of the few weeks of growing weather that +remain. One great difficulty in connection with sowing seed at this +period of the year is the likelihood of the ground being too dry; yet +it is most unwise to water seeds, and it is always better if they can +be got up with the natural moisture of the soil alone. However, in an +extreme case the ground should be well soaked before the seed is sown, +and after sowing covered with hurdles, pea-sticks, or mats until the +seeds begin to sprout. + +Artichokes, Globe, to be cut down as soon as the heads are used. + +Broccoli to be planted out. As the Sprouting Broccoli, which belongs to +the class of ‘Winter Greens,’ does not pay well in spring unless it +grows freely now, plant it far enough apart; if crowded where already +planted to stand the winter, take out every alternate plant and make +another plantation. + +Cabbage.—In many small gardens the August sowing of Cabbages is made to +suffice for the whole year, and in the largest establishments greater +breadths are sown now than at any other period. But whether the garden +be small or large, it is not wise to rely exclusively on the sowing of +any one kind. At least two varieties should be chosen, and as a +precaution each variety may be sown at two dates, with an interval of +about a fortnight between. The wisdom of this arrangement will be +evident in nine seasons out of ten. It allows for contingencies, +prolongs the season of supply, and offers two distinct dishes of a +single vegetable—the mature hearts, and the partially developed plants, +which differ, when served, both in appearance and in flavour. Where the +demand is extensive, or great diversity is required, three or four +kinds should be sown, including Red Cabbage to produce fine heads for +pickling next year. + +Cardoon.—Commence blanching if the plants are ready. + +Cauliflower.—Seed sown now will produce finer heads in spring and early +summer than are generally obtained from a January or February sowing. +The time to sow must be determined by the climate of the district. In +cold, late localities, the first week is none too early; from the 15th +to the 25th is a good time for all the Midland districts; and the end +of the month, or the first week of September, is early enough in the +South. In Devon and Cornwall the sowing is later still. But whatever +date may suit the district, the seed should be sown with care, in order +that a healthy growth may be promoted from the first. Winter the plants +in frames or by other convenient means, but it is important to keep +them hardy by giving air at every favourable opportunity. + +Celery to be carefully earthed up as required. It takes five weeks or +more to blanch Celery well, and as the earthing up checks growth, the +operation should not be commenced a day too soon. Take care that the +earth does not get into the hearts. + +Corn Salad should be sown during this month and September to produce +plants fit for use in early spring. In the summer months the whole +plant is edible, but in winter or spring the outer leaves only should +be used. + +Cucumber.—For a supply of Cucumbers during the winter months the +general principles of management are identical with those given under +January and March, with one important exception. At the commencement of +the year a continued increase of light and warmth may be relied on. Now +there will be a constant diminution of these vital forces. Hence the +progress of the plants will gradually abate as the year wanes, and due +allowance must be made for the fact. So much depends on the character +of the autumn and winter that it will be unwise to risk all on a single +sowing. Seed put in on two or three occasions between the end of August +and the end of October will provide plants in various stages of growth +to meet the exigencies of the season. The production of Cucumbers will +then depend on care and management. In very dull cold weather it may be +dangerous to syringe the foliage, but the necessary moisture can be +secured by sprinkling the floor and walls. + +Endive.—Make a final sowing, and plant out all that are large enough, +selecting, if possible, a dry, sloping bank for the purpose. + +Lettuce to be sown to stand the winter, choosing the hardiest +varieties. In cold districts the middle of the month is a good time to +sow; in favoured places the end of the month is preferable. + +Onion.—For many years the Tripoli section enjoyed pre-eminence for +sowing at this season, the opinion prevailing that other kinds were +unsuitable. But it is found that several varieties which may with +propriety be described as English Onions are as hardy as the Tripolis, +and therefore as well adapted for sowing at this season. Thus, instead +of sorts that must be used quickly, we may command for summer sowing +the best of the keepers, and the result will be heavier crops and +earlier ripening, with plentiful supplies of ‘thinnings’ for salads all +through the autumn and winter. Two sowings—one at the beginning, the +other at the end of the month—may be adopted with advantage. The +storage of Onions is often faulty, and consequently losses occur +through mildew and premature growth. If any are as yet unripe, spread +them out in the sun in a dry place, where they can be covered quickly +in case of rain. In wet, cold seasons, it is sometimes necessary to +finish the store Onions by putting them in a nearly cold oven for some +hours before they are stored away. + +Pea.—Crops coming forward for late bearing should have attention, more +especially to make them safe against storms by a sufficiency of +support, and in case of drought to give abundance of water. + +Strawberry Plants may be put in should the weather prove favourable; +but next month will answer. In burning weather it is well worth while +to bed the plants closely in a moist shady place until rain comes, and +then plant out. + +Tomatoes to be gathered as soon as ripe. If bad weather interferes with +the finishing of the crop, cut the full-grown fruit with a length of +stem attached, and hang them up in a sunny greenhouse, or some other +warm spot in full daylight. Seed sown now or in September will produce +plants that should afford fine fruit in March, and it will need care +and judgment to carry them safely through the winter. + +Turnip may be sown in the early part of the month. The best sorts now +are White Gem, or Snowball. All the Year Round will please those who +like a yellow Turnip. + + +SEPTEMBER + +Weeds will be troublesome to the overworked and the idle gardener, +while the best-kept land will be full of seeds blown upon it from the +sluggard’s garden, and the first shower will bring them up in terrific +force. All that we have to say about them is that they must be kept +down, for they not only choke the rising crops in seed-beds and spoil +the look of everything, but they very much tend to keep the ground damp +and cold, when, if they were away, it would get dry and warm, to the +benefit of all the proper crops upon it. Neglect will make the task of +eradication simply terrible, and, in the meantime, every crop on the +ground will suffer. The two great months for weeds are May and +September; but often the September weeds triumph, because the mischief +they do is not then so obvious to the casual eye. As there are now many +used-up crops that may be cleared away, large quantities of Cabbage, +Endive, Lettuce, and even thinnings of Spinach may be planted out to +stand the winter. + +Cabbage.—We advocate crowding the land now with Cabbage plants, for +growth will be slow and the demands of the kitchen constant. Crowding, +however, is not quite the same thing as overcrowding, and it is only a +waste of labour, land and crop to put the plants so close together that +they have not space for full development. The usual rule in planting +out the larger sorts of Cabbage at this time of the year is to allow a +distance every way of two feet between the plants. The crowding +principle may be carried so far as to put miniature Cabbages between +them, but only on the clear understanding that the small stuff is all +to be cleared off before spring growth commences, and the large +Cabbages will then have proper space for development. + +Cauliflower.—Sow again in a frame or in a pan in the greenhouse. + +Celery.—Continue to earth up, selecting a dry time for the task. + +Chards take quite six weeks to blanch by means of straw, covered with +earth. + +Cucumbers for the winter need careful management and suitable +appliances. See the remarks on this subject under August. + +Endive to be planted out as directed last month. Plant a few on the +border of an orchard-house, or in a ground vinery, or in old frames for +which some lights, however crazy, can be found. + +Lettuces should be coming in from the garden now in good condition, but +the supply will necessarily be running short. Sowings of two or three +sorts should be made partly in frames and partly on a dry open plot +from which a crop has been taken. The ground should be well dug but not +manured. Sow thinly, so that there will not be much need for thinning, +and confine the selection to sorts known to be hardy. The August +sowings will soon be forward enough for putting out, and it will be +advisable to get the work done as early as possible, to insure the +plants being well established before winter. + +Parsley.—The latest sowing will require thinning, but for the present +this must not be too strictly carried out; between this and spring +there will be many opportunities. Thin the plot by drawing out complete +plants as Parsley is demanded for the kitchen. If no late sowing was +made, or, having been made, has failed, cut down to the ground the +strongest plants, that a new growth may be secured quickly. A few +plants potted at the end of the month, or lifted and placed in frames, +may prove exceedingly valuable in winter. + +Potatoes that are ready should be taken up with reasonable care. It is +not wise to wait for the dying down of the shaws, because, when the +tubers are fully grown, they ripen as well in the store, out of harm’s +way, as in the ground, where they are exposed to influences that are +simply destructive. + +Spinach.—In favourable seasons and forward localities Winter Spinach +sown in the first half of this month will make a good plant before +winter. Thin the plants that are already up to six inches apart. + + +OCTOBER + +Weeds and falling leaves are the plagues of the season. It may seem +that they do no harm, but assuredly they are directly injurious to +every crop upon the ground, for they encourage damp and dirt by +preventing a free circulation of air amongst the crops, and the access +of sunshine to the land. Keep all clean and tidy, even to the removal +of the lower leaves of Cabbages, where they lie half decayed upon the +ground. + +The heavy rains of this month interfere in a material degree with +outdoor work, and are often a great impediment to the orderly +management that should prevail. The accumulation of rubbish anywhere, +even if out of sight, is to be deplored as an evil altogether. The +injury to vegetation is as great as that inflicted on our own health +when dirt poisons the air and damp hastens the general dissolution. It +is therefore above all things necessary to keep the garden clean from +end to end. All decaying refuse that can be put into trenches should be +got out of sight as soon as possible, to rot harmlessly instead of +infecting the air, and leaves should be often swept up into heaps, in +which form they cease to be injurious, although, when spread upon the +ground and trodden under foot, they are breeders of mischief. If in +want of work, ply the hoe amongst all kinds of crops, taking care not +to break or bruise healthy leaves, or to disturb the roots of any +plant. Dig vacant plots, and lay the land up in ridges in the roughest +manner possible. Heavy land may be manured now with advantage, but it +is not desirable to manure light land until spring. + +Cabbages to be planted out as advised last month. + +Cardoon.—Blanching must be continued. + +Carrots.—Lift the roots and store in sand. + +Cauliflowers to be prepared for the winter. + +Celeriac.—Part of the crop should be lifted and stored in sand; the +plants left in the ground to be protected by earthing over. + +Celery must be earthed up, and protecting material got ready to assure +its safety during frost. + +Chicory.—Raise about a dozen plants at a time as required, cut or +wrench off the foliage, and pack the roots, crown upwards, in boxes +with moist leaf-mould or soil. They must be stored in absolute darkness +in some cellar or Mushroom-house which is safe from frost, but a +forcing temperature is detrimental to the flavour. Gathering may +commence about three weeks after storing. The yield is abundant, and is +of especial value for salading through the autumn and winter months. + +Endive to be blanched for use as it acquires full size, but not before, +as the blanching makes an end of growth. + +Lettuce.—Continue to plant as before advised, and make a final sowing +in frames not later than the middle of the month. + +Parsnips may be dug all the winter as wanted. Although a slight frost +will not injure them when left in the ground, protection by rough +litter is needful in very severe weather. It often happens that they +grow freely soon after the turn of the year, and then become worthless. + +Potatoes to be taken up and stored with all possible speed. + +Rhubarb for forcing should be taken up and laid aside in a dry, cool +place, exposed to the weather. This gives the roots a check, and +constitutes a kind of winter, which in some degree prepares them for +the forcing pit. + +Roots, such as Beet, Salsify, and Turnip, to be taken up as soon as +possible, and stored for the winter. + +Winter Greens may still be transplanted, and it is often better to use +up the remainder of the seed-beds than to let the plants stand. In the +event of a severe winter, these late-planted Greens may not be of much +value; but in a mild growing winter they will make some progress, and +may prove very useful in the spring. + + +NOVEMBER + +The remarks already made on the necessity for tidiness and the quick +disposal of all decaying refuse apply as forcibly to this month as to +October. The leaves are falling, the atmosphere is moist, and there +should be the utmost care taken not to make things worse by scatterings +of vegetable rubbish. Now we are in the ‘dull days before Christmas’ +the affairs of the garden may be reviewed in detail, and this is the +best period for such a review. Sorts that have done well or ill, wants +that have been felt, mistakes that have been made, are fresh in one’s +memory, and in ordering seeds, roots, plants, &c., for next season’s +work, experience and observation can be recorded with a view to future +benefit. Consistently with the revision of plans by the fireside, +revise the work out of doors. Begin to prepare for next year’s crops by +trenching, manuring, planting, and collecting stuff to burn in a +‘smother.’ Land dug now for spring seeds and roots, and kept quite +rough, will only require to be levelled down and raked over when spring +comes to be ready for seed, and will produce better crops than if +prepared in a hurry. Protecting material for all the needs of the +season must be in readiness, in view of the fact that a few nights of +hard frost may destroy Lettuces, Endives, Celery, and Cauliflowers +worth many pounds, which a few shillings’-worth of labour and litter +would have saved. Earthwork can generally be pushed on, and it is good +practice to get all road-mending and the breaking up of new ground +completed before the year runs out, because of the hindrance that may +result from frost, and the inevitable pressure of other work at the +turn of the spring. The weather is an important matter; but often the +month of November is favourable to outdoor work, and labour can then be +found more readily than at most other seasons. + +Artichokes, Globe, must be protected ere frost attacks them. Cut off +the stems and large leaves to within a foot of the ground; then heap up +along each side of the rows a lot of dry litter consisting of straw, +pea haulm, or leaves, taking care in so doing to leave free access to +light and air. The hearts must not be covered, or decay will follow. + +Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be dug as wanted, but some should be lifted +and stored in sand for use during frosts. + +Asparagus beds not yet cleaned must have prompt attention. Cut down the +brown grass and rake off all the weeds and rubbish, and finish by +putting on a dressing of seaweed, or half-rotten stable manure. + +Bean, Broad.—It is customary on dry warm soils to sow Beans at the end +of October or during November for a first crop, and the practice is to +be commended. On cold damp soils, and on clay lands everywhere, it is a +waste of seed and labour to sow now, but every district has its +peculiar capabilities, and each cultivator must judge for himself. In +any case, Beans sown during this month should be put on well-drained +land in a sheltered spot. + +Broccoli.—In inclement districts lay the plants with their heads facing +the north. + +Carrot to be sown in frames, and successive sowings made every three or +four weeks until February. + +Cauliflowers will be turning in, and possibly those coming forward will +be all the better off for being covered with a leaf to protect the +heads from frost. If the barometer rises steadily and the wind goes +round to north or north-east, draw all the best Cauliflowers, and put +them in a shed or any out-of-the-way place safe for use. + +Celery.—Hard frost coming after heavy rain may prove destructive to +Celery; and it is well, if there is a crop worth saving, to cut a +trench round the plantation to favour escape of surplus water. If taken +up and packed away in a dry shed, the sticks will keep fresh for some +time. + +Horse-radish to be taken up and stored ready for use, and new +plantations made as weather permits and ground can be spared. + +Pea.—The sowing of Peas outdoors now is not recommended for general +practice, but only for those who are so favourably circumstanced as to +have a fair prospect of success. If it is determined to sow, select for +the purpose a dry, light, well-drained sunny border, and make it safe +from mice, slugs, and sparrows. The quick-growing round-seeded +varieties must be chosen for the purpose, and it will be advisable to +sow two or three sorts rather than one only. Peas to be grown entirely +under glass may be started now. + +Sea Kale to be lifted for forcing. This delicious vegetable may, +indeed, be forced for the table in this month; but it is not advisable +to be in such haste, for a fine sample cannot be secured so early. Sea +Kale is the easiest thing in the world to force; the only point of +importance is to have strong roots to begin with. Any place such as +Mushroom-houses, cellars, pits, or old sheds, where it is possible to +maintain a temperature of 45° to 55°, may be utilised for the purpose. +Put the plants thickly into pots or boxes, or plant them in a bed, and +it is essential to exclude light to insure blanching. By these simple +means a regular supply may be obtained until the permanent beds in the +open ground come into use. + + +DECEMBER + +The best advice that can be given for this month is to be prepared for +either heavy rain or sharp frost, so that extreme variations of +temperature may inflict the least possible injury in the garden. Let +the work be ordered with reference to the weather, that there may be no +‘poaching’ on wet ground, or absurd conflict with frost. Accept every +opportunity of wheeling out manure; and as long as the ground can be +dug without waste of labour, proceed to open trenches, make drains, and +mend walks, because this is the period for improving, and the place +must be very perfect which affords no work for winter weather. Dispose +of all rubbish by the simple process of putting it in trenches when +digging plots for early seeds. In sheds and outhouses many tasks may be +found, such as making large substantial tallies for the garden; the +little paltry things commonly used being simply delusive, for they are +generally missing when wanted, from their liability to be trodden into +the ground or kicked anywhere by a heedless foot. Make ready +pea-sticks, stakes of sizes, and at odd times gather up all the dry +stuff that is adapted for a grand ‘smother.’ A careful forecasting of +the next year’s cropping will show that even now many arrangements may +be made to increase the chances of success. + +Warm Border to be prepared for early work by digging and manuring. All +the refuse turf and leaf-mould from the potting-shed and the soil +knocked out of pots may be usefully disposed of by adding it to this +border, which cannot be too light or too rich, and a good dressing of +manure will give it strength to perform its duties. + +Beans, Broad, to be earthed up for protection and support. + +Celery to be earthed up for the last time. In case of severe weather, +have protecting material at hand in the shape of dry litter or mats. +Pea-sticks make a capital foundation on which to throw long litter, +mats, &c., for quickly covering Celery, the protection being as quickly +removed when the frost is over, and costing next to nothing. + +Endive will be valued now, and must be blanched as required. Place a +few in frames and other protected spots. In the unused corners of sheds +and outhouses they may be safer than out of doors. + +Parsley.—In all cold districts it is wise to secure a bed of Parsley, +in a frame or pit, or if a few plants were potted in September, they +may be wintered in any place where they can have light and air freely. +It is so important to have Parsley at command as wanted, that it may be +worth while to put a frame over a few rows as they stand in the open +quarter, rather than risk the loss of all in the event of severe +weather. + +Radish.—Sow one of the long sorts for a first supply in some warm spot, +to secure quick growth. + +Underground Onions to be planted in rows one foot apart. They should +not be earthed up, for the young bulbs form round the stems in full +daylight. + + + + +THE ROTATION OF CROPS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN + + +This is a subject worthy the attention of those who aim at the largest +possible production and the highest possible quality of every kind of +kitchen-garden crop, for it concerns the natural relations of the plant +and the soil as to their several chemical constituents. The principle +may be illustrated by considering the demands of two of the most common +kitchen-garden crops. If we submit a Cabbage to the destructive agency +of fire, and analyse the ashes that remain, we shall find in them, in +round numbers, eight per cent. of sulphuric acid, sixteen per cent. of +phosphoric acid, four per cent. of soda, forty-eight per cent. of +potash, and fifteen per cent. of lime. It is evident that we cannot +expect to grow a Cabbage on a soil which is destitute of these +ingredients, to say nothing of others. The obnoxious odour of sulphur +emitted by decaying Cabbages might indicate, to anyone accustomed to +reflect on ordinary occurrences, that sulphur is an important +constituent of Cabbage. If we submit a Potato tuber to a similar +process, the result will be to find in the ashes fifty-nine per cent. +of potash, two per cent. of soda, six per cent. of sulphuric acid, +nineteen per cent. of phosphoric acid, and two per cent. of lime. The +lesson for the cultivator is, that to prepare a soil for Cabbage it is +of the utmost importance to employ a manure containing sulphates, +phosphates, and potash salts in considerable quantity; as for the lime, +that can be supplied separately, but the Cabbage must have it. On the +other hand, to prepare a soil for Potatoes it is necessary to employ a +manure strongly charged with salts of potash and phosphates, but it +need not be highly charged with soda or lime, for we find but a small +proportion of these ingredients in the Potato. There are soils so +naturally rich in all that crops require, that they may be tilled for +years without the aid of manures, and will not cease to yield an +abundant return. But such soils are exceptional, and those that need +constant manuring are the rule. One point more, ere we proceed to apply +to practice these elementary considerations. In almost every soil, +whether strong clay, mellow loam, poor sand, or even chalk, there are +comminglings of all the minerals required by plants, and, indeed, if +there were not, we should see no herbage on the downs, and no Ivies +climbing, as they do, to the topmost heights of limestone rocks. But +usually a considerable proportion of those mineral constituents on +which plants feed are locked up in the staple, and are only dissolved +out slowly as the rain, the dew, the ever-moving air, and the sunshine +operate upon them and make them available. As the rock slowly yields up +its phosphates, alkalies and silica to the wild vegetation that runs +riot upon it, so the cultivated field (which is but rock in a state of +decay) yields up its phosphates, alkalies and silica for the service of +plants the more quickly because it is the practice of the cultivator to +stir the soil and continually expose fresh surfaces to the transforming +power of the atmosphere. It has been said that the air we breathe is a +powerful manure. So it is, but not in the sense that is applicable to +stable manure or guano. The air may and does afford to plants much of +their food, but it can only help them to the minerals they require by +dissolving these out of pebbles, flints, nodules of chalk, sandstone, +and other substances in the soil which contain them in what may be +termed a locked-up condition. Every fresh exposure of the soil to the +air, and especially to frost and snow, is as the opening of a new mine +of fertilisers for the service of those plants on which man depends for +his subsistence. + +The application to practice of these considerations is an extremely +simple matter in the first instance, but it may become very complicated +if followed far enough. Here we can only touch the surface of the +subject, yet we hope to do so usefully. Suppose, then, that we grow +Cabbage, or Cauliflower, or Broccoli, on the same plot of ground, one +crop following the other for a long series of years, and never refresh +the soil with manure, it must be evident that we shall, some day or +other, find the crop fail through the exhaustion of the soil of its +available sulphur, phosphates, lime, or potash. But if this soil were +allowed to lie fallow for some time, it would again produce a crop of +Cabbage, owing to the liberation of mineral matters which, when the +crops were failing, were not released fast enough, but which, during +the rest allowed to the soil, accumulated sufficiently to sustain a +crop. Obviously this mode of procedure is unprofitable and tends of +necessity to exhaustion, although it must be confessed that utter +exhaustion of any soil is a thing at present almost unknown. But, +instead of following a practice which impoverishes, let us enrich the +soil with manure, and change the crops on the same plot, so that when +one crop has largely taxed it for one class of minerals, a different +crop is grown which will tax it for another class of minerals. Take for +a moment’s consideration one of the necessary constituents of a fertile +soil, common salt (chloride of sodium). In the ash of a Cabbage there +is about six per cent. of this mineral, in the Turnip about ten per +cent., in the Potato two to three per cent., in the Beet eighteen to +twenty per cent. On the other hand the Beet contains very little +sulphur, but both Turnip and Beet agree in being strongly charged with +potash and soda. It follows that if we crop a piece of ground with +Cabbage, and wish to avoid the failure that may occur if we continue to +crop with Cabbage, we may expect to do well by giving the ground a +dressing of common salt and potash salts, and then crop it with Beet. + +The whole subject is not exhausted by this mode of viewing it, for all +the facts are not yet fully understood by the ablest of our chemists +and physiologists, and crops differ in their methods of seeking +nourishment. We might find two distinct plants nearly agreeing in +chemical constitution, and yet one might fail where the other would +succeed. Suppose, for instance, we have grown Cabbage and other +surface-rooting crops until the soil begins to fail, even then we might +obtain from it a good crop of Parsnips or Carrots, for the simple +reason that these send their roots down to a stratum that the Cabbage +never reached; and it is most instructive to bear in mind that although +the Parsnip will grow on poor land, and pay on land that has been badly +tilled for years, yet the ashes of the Parsnip contain thirty-six per +cent. of potash, eleven per cent. of lime, eighteen per cent. of +phosphoric acid, six per cent. of sulphuric acid, three per cent. of +phosphate of iron, and five per cent. of common salt. How does the +Parsnip obtain its mineral food in a soil which for other crops appears +to be exhausted? Simply by pushing down for it into a mine that has +hitherto been but little worked, though Cabbage might fail on the same +plot because the superficial stratum has been overtaxed. + +Having attempted a general, we now proceed to a particular application. +In the first place, good land, well tilled and abundantly manured, +cannot be soon exhausted; but even in this case a rotation of crops is +advisable. It is less easy to say why than to insist that in practice +we find it to be so. The question then arises—What is a rotation of +crops? It is the ordering of a succession in such a manner that the +crops will tax the soil for mineral aliments in a different manner. A +good rotation will include both chemical and mechanical differences, +and place tap-roots in a course between surface roots, as, for example, +Carrot, Parsnip, and Beet, after Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Broccoli; +and light, quick surface crops, such as Spinach, to serve as +substitutes for fallows. The cropping of the kitchen garden should be, +as far as possible, so ordered that plants of the same natural families +never immediately succeed one another; and, above all things, it is +important to shift from place to place, year after year, the Cabbages +and the Potatoes, because these are the most exhaustive crops we grow. +In a ton of Potatoes there are about twelve pounds of potash, four +pounds of sulphuric acid, four pounds of phosphoric acid, and one pound +of magnesia. We may replace these substances by abundant manuring, and +we are bound to say that the best rotation will not obviate the +necessity for manuring; but even then it is well to crop the plot with +Peas, Spinach, Lettuce, and other plants that occupy it for a +comparatively brief space of time, and necessitate much digging and +stirring; for these mechanical agencies combine with the manure in +preparing the plot to grow Potatoes again much better than if the land +were kept to this crop only from year to year. If we could mark out a +plot of ground into four parts, we should devote one plot to permanent +crops—such as Asparagus, Sea Kale, and Rhubarb—and on the other three +keep the crops revolving in some such order as this: No. 1, Potatoes, +Celery, Leek, Carrot, Parsnip, Beet, &c. No. 2, Peas, Beans, Onions, +Summer Spinach, &c., followed by Turnips for winter use, Cabbage for +spring use, and Winter Spinach. No. 3, Brassicas, including Broccoli, +Brussels Sprouts, Kale, &c. In the following year the original No. 1 +would be cropped as No. 2, and No. 2 as No. 3. In the third season +corresponding changes would be made, constituting a three-course +system. The cultivator must use discretion in cropping vacant ground. +As an example it will be obvious that land cleared of Early Potatoes +will be very suitable for planting Strawberries. Another point is worth +attention: Peas sown on the lines where Celery has been grown will +thrive without any preparation beyond levelling the ground and drawing +the necessary drills. This is a West of England custom, and it answers +exceedingly well. + + + + +THE CHEMISTRY OF GARDEN CROPS + + +A Consideration of the chemistry of the crops that engage attention in +this country will afford an explanation of one great difference between +farming and gardening. And this difference should be kept in mind by +all classes of cultivators as the basis of operations in tillage, +cropping, and the order and character of rotations. The first thing to +discover in the cropping of a farm is the kind of vegetation for which +the land is best adapted to insure, in a run of seasons, fairly +profitable results. If the soil is unfit for cereals, then it is sheer +folly to sow any more corn than may be needful for convenience, as, for +example, to supply straw for thatching and litter, and oats for horses, +to save cost of carriage, &c. On large farms that are far removed from +markets it is often necessary to risk a few crops that the land is ill +fitted for, in order to satisfy the requirements of the homestead, and +to save the outlay of money and the inconvenience of hauling from +distant markets. But everywhere the cropping must be adapted to the +soil and the climate as nearly as possible, both to simplify operations +and enlarge to the utmost the chances of success. In the cropping of a +garden this plain procedure cannot be followed. We are compelled +certainly to consider what the soil and climate will especially favour +amongst garden crops, but, notwithstanding this, the gardener must grow +whatever the household requires. He may have to grow Peas on a hot +shallow sand; and Potatoes and Carrots on a cold clay; and Asparagus on +a shallow bed of pebbles and potsherds. To the gardener the chemistry +of crops is a matter of great importance, because he cannot restrict +his operations to such crops as the land is particularly adapted for, +but must endeavour to make the land capable of carrying more or less of +all the vegetables and fruits that find a place in the catalogue of +domestic wants. That he must fail at certain points is inevitable; +nevertheless his aim will be, and must be, of a somewhat universal +kind, and a clear idea of the relations of plants to the soil in which +they grow will be of constant and incalculable value to him. + +We are bound to say at the outset that a complete essay on the +chemistry of vegetation is not our purpose. We are anxious to convey +some useful information, and to kindle sufficient interest to induce +those who have hitherto given but slight attention to this question to +inquire further, with a view to get far beyond the point at which we +shall have to quit the subject. + +Plants consist of two classes of constituents—the Inorganic, which may +be called the foundation; and the Organic, which may be considered the +superstructure. With the former of these we are principally concerned +here. A plant must derive from the soil certain proportions of silica, +lime, sulphur, phosphates, alkalies, and other mineral constituents, or +it cannot exist at all; but, given these, the manufacture of fibre, +starch, gum, sugar, and other organic products depends on the action of +light, heat, atmospheric air, and moisture, for the organic products +have to be created by chemical (or vital) action within the structure, +or, as we sometimes say, the tissues of the plant itself. To a very +great extent the agencies that conduce to the elaboration of organic +products are beyond our control (though not entirely so), whereas we +can directly, and to a considerable degree, provide the plant with the +minerals it more particularly requires; first, by choosing the ground +for it, and next by tilling and manuring in a suitable manner. A clay +soil, in which, in addition to the predominating alumina, there is a +fair proportion of lime, may be regarded as the most fertile for all +purposes; but we have few such in Britain, our clays being mostly of an +obdurate texture, retentive of moisture, and requiring much +cultivation, and containing, moreover, salts of iron in proportions and +forms almost poisonous to plants. But there are profound resources in +most clays, so that if it is difficult to tame them, it is also +difficult to exhaust them. Hence a clay that has been well cultivated +through several generations will generally produce a fair return for +whatever crop may be put upon it. Limestone soils are usually very +porous and deficient of clay, and therefore have no sustaining power. +Many of our great tracts of mountain limestone are mere sheep-walks, +and would be comparatively worthless except for the lime that may be +obtained by burning. On the other hand, chalk, which is a more recent +form of carbonate of lime, is often highly productive, more especially +where, through long cultivation, it has been much broken up, and has +become loamy through accumulation of humus. Between the oldest +limestone and the latest chalk there are many intermediate kinds of +calcareous soils, and they are mostly good, owing to their richness in +phosphates, the products of the marine organisms of which these rocks +in great part, and in some cases wholly, consist. For the growth of +cereals these calcareous soils need a certain proportion of silica, and +where they have this we see some of the finest crops of Wheat, +Trifolium, Peas and Beans in these islands. If we could mix some of our +obdurate clays with our barren limestones, the two comparatively +worthless staples would probably prove remarkably fertile. Although +this is impossible, a consideration of the chemistry of the imaginary +mixture may be useful, more especially to the gardener, who can in a +small way accomplish many things that are impracticable on a great +scale. Sandy soils are characterised by excess of silica, and +deficiency of alumina, phosphates and potash. Here the mechanical +texture is as serious a matter as it is in the case of clay. The sand +is too loose as the clay is too pasty, and it may be that we have to +prevent the estate from being blown away. It is especially worthy of +observation, however, that sandy soils are the most readily amenable of +any to the operation of tillage. If we cannot take much out of them, we +can put any amount into them, and it is always necessary to calculate +where the process of enrichment is to stop. It is not less worthy of +observation that sandy soils can be rendered capable of producing +almost every kind of crop, save cereals and pulse, and even these can +be secured where there is some basis of peat or loam or clay with the +sand. The parks and gardens of Paris, Versailles, and Haarlem are on +deep sands that drift before the wind when left exposed for any length +of time with no crop upon them; and not only do we see the finest of +Potatoes and the most nutritious of herbage produced on these soils, +but good Cauliflowers, Peas, Beans, Onions, fruits, and big trees of +sound timber. + +Garden soils usually consist of loam of some kind, the consequence of +long cultivation. Natural loams are the result of the decay and +admixture of various earths, and they are mostly of a mellow texture, +easily worked and highly productive. They are, as a rule, the best of +all soils, and their goodness is in part due to the fact that they +contain a little of everything, with no great predominance of any one +particular earth. Cultivation also produces loam. On a clay land we +find a top crust of clayey loam, and on a lime or chalk land a top +crust of calcareous loam. Where cultivation has been long pursued the +staple is broken and manures are put on, and the roots of plants assist +in disintegration and decomposition. Thus there is accumulation of +humus and a decomposition of the rock proceeding together, and a loam +of some sort is the result. Hence the necessity of caution in respect +of deep trenching, for if we bury the top soil and put in its place a +crude material that has not before seen daylight, we may lose ten years +in profitable cropping, because we must now begin to tame a savage soil +that we have been at great pains to bring up, to cover a stratum of a +good material prepared for us by the combined operations of Nature and +Art during, perhaps, several centuries. But deep and good garden soils +may be safely trenched and freely knocked about, because not only does +the process favour the deep rooting of the plants, but it favours also +that disintegration which is one of the causes of fertility. Every +pebble is capable of imparting to the soil a solution—infinitesimal, +perhaps, but not the less real—of silica, or lime, or potash, or +phosphates, or perhaps of all these; but it must be exposed to light +and air and moisture to enable it to part with a portion of its +substance, and thus it is that mechanical tillage is of the first +importance in all agricultural and horticultural operations. + +The principal inorganic or mineral constituents of plants are potash, +soda, lime, iron, phosphorus, sulphur, chlorine, and silica. Clays and +loams are generally rich in potash, sulphur, and phosphates, but +deficient in soluble silica and lime. Limestone and chalk are usually +rich in lime and phosphates, but deficient in humus, silica, sulphur, +and alkalies. Sandy soils are rich in silica, but are generally poor in +respect of phosphates and alkalies. Therefore, on a clay or loam, +farmyard manure is invaluable, because it contains ingredients that all +crops appreciate, and also because it is helpful in breaking up the +texture of the soil. The occasional application of lime also is +important for its almost magical effect on garden soil that has been +liberally manured and heavily cropped for a long term of years. +Calcareous soils are greatly benefited by a free application to them of +manure from the stable and cow-byre; but as a rule it would be like +carrying coals to Newcastle to dress these soils with lime. Clay may be +put on with advantage; and nothing benefits a hot chalky soil more than +a good dose of mud from ponds and ditches, which supplies at once +humus, alumina, and silicates, and gives ‘staple’ to the soil, while +preventing it also from ‘burning.’ In the manuring of sandy soils great +care is requisite, because of their absorbing power. In the +bulb-growing districts of Holland, manure from cowsheds is worth an +enormous price for digging into loose sand for a crop of Potatoes, to +be followed by bulbs. Sandy soils are generally deficient in phosphates +and alkalies; hence it will on such soils be frequently found that +kainit (a crude form of potash) and superphosphate of lime will +conjointly produce the best results, more especially in raising +Potatoes, Onions, and Carrots, which are particularly well adapted for +sandy soils. Probably one of the best fertilisers is genuine farmyard +manure from stall-fed cattle, for it contains phosphates, alkalies, and +silicates in available forms. For similar reasons Peruvian Guano is +often useful on such soils. Artificial manure should be selected with a +view to correct the deficiencies of the soil, and to satisfy the +requirements of the crops to be grown on it. + +While we have thus dealt principally with the Inorganic or mineral +constituents of plants, and the way in which the deficiencies of the +soil in respect of any of them may be supplied by artificial +applications, we must not ignore the other class of constituents, the +Organic. These are supplied almost entirely from the atmosphere itself, +though, to a limited extent, the presence in the soil of humus or +vegetable matter contributes also. Yet this latter, as seen in the case +of land heavily dressed with farmyard or stable manure, vegetable +refuse, &c., exercises important functions in other directions. Not +only are mineral constituents, in forms available for assimilation, +supplied, but soils so treated derive peculiar advantages as regards +their mechanical state and improved physical conditions, chiefly in +respect of retention of moisture, warmth, &c. Thus, sandy soils, which +are very apt, through poverty in humus, to lose their moisture readily +and to ‘burn,’ are rendered more retentive of moisture and fertilising +constituents by the use of farmyard manure, &c., and have more ‘staple’ +or substance given to them, while heavy, tenacious clays are opened +out, lightened, and rendered more amenable to the influences of +drainage, aeration, &c., and so become less cold and inactive. + +For the present purpose the principal garden crops may be grouped in +two classes, in accordance with their main characteristics and the +predominance of certain of their mineral elements. The figures given on +the following page show the average percentage proportions of the +several minerals in the ashes of the different plants. + +In Class I. Phosphates and Potash predominate. This class consists of +the less succulent plants, and includes the following: The Pea: +containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, thirty-six; potash, +forty. Bean: phosphates, thirty; potash, forty-four. Potato (tubers +only): phosphates, nineteen; potash, fifty-nine; soda, two; lime, two; +sulphuric acid, six. Parsnip: phosphates, eighteen; potash, thirty-six; +lime, eleven; salt, five. Carrot: phosphates, twelve; potash, +thirty-six; soda, thirteen; sulphuric acid, six. Jerusalem Artichoke: +phosphates, sixteen; potash, sixty-five. + +In Class II. Sulphur, Lime and Soda Salts are predominant. This class +consists of the more succulent plants, and includes the following: +Cabbage: containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, sixteen; +potash, forty-eight; soda, four; lime, fifteen; sulphuric acid, eight. +Turnip: phosphates, thirteen; potash, thirty-nine; soda, five; lime, +ten; sulphuric acid, fourteen. Beet: phosphates, fourteen; potash, +forty-nine; soda, nineteen; lime, six; sulphuric acid, five. + +As a matter of course, Lentils and other kinds of pulse agree more or +less with Peas and Beans in the predominance of phosphates and potash. +So, again, all the Brassicas, whether Kales, Cauliflower, or whatever +else, agree nearly with the Cabbage in the prominent presence of lime +and sulphur; ingredients which fully account for the offensive odour of +these vegetables when in a state of decay. Fruits as a rule are highly +charged with alkalies, and are rarely deficient in phosphates; +moreover, stone-fruits require lime, for they have to make bone as well +as flesh when they produce a crop. As regards the alkalies, plants +appear capable of substituting soda for potash under some +circumstances, but it would not be prudent for the cultivator to assume +that the cheaper alkali might take the place of the more costly one as +a mineral agent, for Nature is stern and constant in her ways, and it +can hardly be supposed that a plant in which potash normally +predominates can attain to perfection in a soil deficient in potash, +however well supplied it may be with soda. The cheaper alkali in +combination as salt (chloride of sodium) may, however, be usually +employed in aid of quick-growing green crops; and more or less with +tap-roots and Brassicas. Salt, too, is very useful in a dry season by +reason of its power of attracting and retaining moisture. As regards +Potatoes, it is worthy of observation that they contain but a trace of +silica, and yet they generally thrive on sand, and in many instances +crops grown on sand are free from disease and of high quality, although +the weight may not be great. The mechanical texture of the soil has +much to do with this; and when that is aided by a supply of potash and +phosphates, whether from farmyard manure or artificials, sandy soils +become highly productive of Potatoes of the very finest quality. On the +other hand, Potatoes also grow well on limestone and chalk, and yet +there is but little lime in them. Here, again, mechanical texture +explains the case in part, and it is further explained by the +sufficiency of potash and phosphates, as also of magnesia, which enters +in a special manner into the mineral constitution of this root. + +Thus far we have not even mentioned nitrogen, or its common form of +salts of ammonia; nor have we mentioned carbon, or its very familiar +form of carbonic acid. These are important elements of plant growth; +and they account for the efficacy of manures derived directly from the +animal kingdom, as, for example, the droppings of animals, including +guano, which consisted originally of the droppings of sea-birds. Some +of the nitrogen in these substances, however, is of an evanescent +character, and rapidly flies away in the form of carbonate of ammonia; +hence, a heap of farmyard manure, left for several years, loses much of +its value as manure, and guano should be kept in bulk as long as +possible, and protected from the atmosphere, or its ammonia will +largely disappear. One difficulty experienced by chemists and others in +preparing artificial manures is that of ‘fixing’ the needful ammonia, +so that it may be kept from being dissipated in the atmosphere, and at +the same time be always in a state in which it can be appropriated by +the plant. In all good manures, however, there is a certain proportion +of it in combination, and in many instances the percentage of nitrogen +is made the test of the value of a manure. + +The importance of humus—the black earthy substance resulting from the +decay of vegetation—in a soil is that it contains in an assimilable +form many of the ingredients essential to plant life. Humus when it +decomposes gives off carbonic acid, which breaks up the mineral +substances in the soil and renders them available as plant food. When +vegetable refuse is burned, the nitrogen—one of the costliest +constituents—is dissipated and lost. But by burying the refuse the soil +gets back a proportion of the organic nitrogen it surrendered and +something over in the way of soluble phosphatic and potassic salts; and +as this organic nitrogen assumes ultimately the form of nitric acid, it +can be assimilated by the growing plant, to the great benefit of +whatever crop may occupy the ground. + +The practical conclusion is, that in the treatment of the soil a +skilful gardener will endeavour to promote its fertility by affording +the natural influences of rain, frost and sun full opportunity of +liberating the constituents that are locked up in the staple; by +restoring in the form of refuse as much as possible of what the soil +has parted with in vegetation; and by the addition of such fertilising +agents as are adapted to rectify the natural deficiencies of the soil. +Thus, instead of following a process of exhaustion, the resources of +the garden may be annually augmented. + + + + +ARTIFICIAL MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION TO GARDEN CROPS + + +Plants, like animals, require food for their sustenance and +development, and when this is administered in insufficient quantities, +or unsuitable foods are supplied, they remain small, starved, and +unhealthy. + +The chemical elements composing the natural food of ordinary crops are +ten in number, viz.—carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, +phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and iron. These are obtained +from the soil and air, and unless all of them are available plants will +not grow. The absence of even one of them is as disastrous as the want +of all, and a deficiency of one cannot be made up by an excess of +another; for example, if the soil is deficient in potassium the crop +suffers and cannot be improved by adding iron or magnesium. All the +food-elements are found in adequate quantities in practically all soils +and the surrounding air, except three—nitrogen, potassium, and +phosphorus. These are often present in reduced amount, or in a state +unsuited to plants; in such cases the deficiency must be made up before +remunerative healthy crops can be grown, and it is with this express +object that manures are added to the soil. + +One of the best known substances employed in this way is farmyard +manure, which is indirectly derived from plants and contains all the +elements needed for the growth of crops. It is, however, of very +variable composition and rarely, or never, contains these elements in +the most suitable proportions, and its value can always be greatly +improved by supplementing its action with one or other of the so-called +artificial manures or fertilisers. Although it is strongly advisable to +add farmyard manure or vegetable composts to the soil of all gardens +now and again, in order to keep the texture of the soil in a +satisfactory condition, excellent crops can be grown by the use of +artificial fertilisers alone. To obtain the best results from these +some experience is of course necessary, but the following details +regarding the nature and application of the commoner and more useful +kinds should prove a serviceable guide in the majority of cases. + +Artificial manures may be divided into three classes:— + +1. The Nitrogenous class, of which nitrate of soda and sulphate of +ammonia are examples. + +2. The Phosphatic class, such as superphosphate, basic slag, and +steamed bone flour. + +3. The Potash class, including kainit and sulphate of potash. The +several examples of each class contain only one of the three important +plant food-elements, and as a single element can only be of use when +the others are present in the soil, it is generally advisable to apply +one from each class, either separately or mixed, in order to insure +that the crop is supplied with nitrogen, phosphates, and potash. + +Nitrogenous manures specially stimulate the growth of the foliage, +stems, and roots of plants, and are therefore of the greatest benefit +to Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, Beet, Celery, Asparagus, Rhubarb, all +the Cabbage tribe, and leafy crops generally. + +_Nitrate of soda_ supplies the single plant food-element, nitrogen, and +the soda for all practical purposes may be disregarded. It dissolves +very easily in water and is taken up immediately by growing plants, its +effect being plainly seen a few days after application. As this +artificial readily drains away from uncropped land it should only be +administered to growing plants. It is best applied in spring and summer +and in small quantities; for example, at the rate of one pound per +square rod, repeated at intervals of two or three weeks, rather than in +a single large dose. Nitrate of soda must not be mixed with +superphosphate, but it may be added to basic slag and the potash +manures. + +_Sulphate of ammonia_ is another nitrogenous fertiliser, similar in its +effects to nitrate of soda, but slower in action since its nitrogen +must undergo a change into nitrate before it is available for plants. +It is held by the soil, and can therefore be applied earlier in spring +than nitrate of soda without fear of loss. The continued use of this +manure, however, is liable to make the soil sour, and consequently it +should only be employed on ground containing lime, or to which lime has +been added. Never mix sulphate of ammonia with basic slag or with lime, +but it may be mixed with superphosphate and the potash manures. + +Phosphatic manures have the opposite effect to the nitrogenous +fertilisers, checking rampant growth and encouraging the early +formation of flowers, fruit, and seeds. They are comparatively +inexpensive and should be liberally applied to all soils for all crops. +_Superphosphate_ is an acid manure and best suited for use on soils +containing lime. _Basic slag_ is a better material for ground deficient +in lime, or where ‘club-root’ is prevalent. It is less soluble and +therefore slower in action than superphosphate. Both these fertilisers +should be dug into the soil some time before the crop is planted or +seed sown—superphosphate at the rate of two to three pounds per square +rod; basic slag in larger amount, five to six pounds per square rod. +Superphosphate may also be employed as a top-dressing and worked into +the surface around growing plants with the hoe. _Steamed bone meal_ or +_flour_ is another useful phosphatic fertiliser, valuable on the +lighter classes of soil. + +Potash manures are of benefit to plants in all stages of growth. They +are particularly valuable to Potatoes, leguminous crops, Carrots, +Parsnips, Turnips, and Beet. Like the phosphatic manures they should be +worked into the soil before seeds are sown or plants are put out. +_Kainit_ is best applied in autumn, for it contains a considerable +amount of common salt and magnesium compounds which are sometimes +deleterious and best washed away in the drainage water during winter. +It should be dug in at the rate of about three pounds per square rod. +_Sulphate of potash_ is three or four times as rich in potash as +kainit, and is correspondingly more expensive; apply in spring and +summer, a little in advance of sowing or planting, at the rate of about +one pound per square rod. + +Lime.—- A word or two must be said about lime, which is a natural +constituent of all soils. In many instances there is sufficient for the +needs of most plants, but where lime is deficient in quantity it must +be added before healthy crops can be raised. Old gardens to which dung +has been freely applied annually require a liberal dressing of lime +every few years, or the ground becomes sour and incapable of growing +good crops of any kind. To insure the proper action of whatever manures +are used and to secure healthy crops, an application of slaked +quicklime, at the rate of fourteen to twenty pounds per square rod, is +strongly recommended. As a remedy against ‘clubbing’ or +‘finger-and-toe’ disease of the Cabbage tribe of plants it is +indispensable; it also neutralises the baneful acidity of the land, and +opens up stiff soils, making them more easily tilled, more readily +penetrated by the air, and warmer by the better drainage of water +through them. + +The following suggestions for the manuring of the different crops +mentioned will be found effective. It is, however, not intended that +they should be slavishly followed, for useful substitutions may be made +in the formulæ given, if the nature of the various fertilisers is +understood and an intelligent grasp is obtained of the principles of +manuring enunciated in this and the preceding chapter. + +In place of nitrate of soda, a similar quantity of sulphate of ammonia +may be used. + +Instead of superphosphate, the following may be advantageously +employed: phosphatic guano, or mixtures of basic slag and +superphosphate, or bone meal and superphosphate; or basic slag may be +applied alone on land deficient in lime. + +Four pounds of kainit may also take the place of one pound of sulphate +of potash in the suggested mixtures mentioned below. + +Where dung is recommended, twenty to twenty-five loads per acre is +meant; larger quantities are frequently applied, but these are +uneconomical and much less efficient than more moderate amounts +supplemented with artificial fertilisers. + +All the manures should be worked into the soil before sowing or +planting out, except the nitrate of soda, which is best applied +separately to the growing plants, preferably in small doses at +intervals of two to four weeks. + +_In all cases the quantities of artificials named are intended for use +on one square rod or pole of ground._ + +PEAS AND BEANS.—These leguminous plants are able to obtain all the +nitrogen they need from the air. They should, however, be amply +supplied with potash and phosphates, a good dressing being:— + +2-3/4 to 3-1/2 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +DWARF BEANS are sometimes benefited by the addition of 1/2-lb. to 1 lb. +of nitrate of soda. + +ASPARAGUS. + +A dressing of dung +2 lb. nitrate of soda +3-1/2 to 4 lb. superphosphate +3 lb kainit + +The kainit contains a considerable amount of salt, which is of value to +this crop. + +BEET.—For a fine crop a moderate amount of well-decayed dung applied in +autumn is almost essential, as well as 3 to 4 lb. of superphosphate per +square rod in spring. On land previously dressed with dung for a former +crop, the following may be used, especially on the lighter class of +soils:— + +1-1/2 lb. nitrate of soda when the plants are well +up, and a similar amount a fortnight +after singling +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate +4 lb. kainit + +BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. + +_With dung_. +2 to 3 lb. nitrate of soda +2 to 3 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +_Without dung_. +4 to 5 lb. nitrate of soda +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +CABBAGE, KALE, AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—These Brassicas require +considerable quantities of nitrogen and phosphates. For spring Cabbage +planted in autumn, land well dunged for the previous crop gives good +results with the addition of the artificials mentioned below: for the +autumn crop, dung should be applied before planting out in the early +part of the year. + +_With dung_. +2 to 3 lb. nitrate of soda +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +_Without dung._ +4 lb. nitrate of soda +5 to 6 lb. superphosphat +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +CARROT AND PARSNIP.—A good dressing of dung applied to the previous +crop is a valuable preparation where Carrots and Parsnips are to be +grown. In addition, one of the following mixtures should be used:— + +(1) +3/4 lb. nitrate of soda +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +(2) + +3/4 lb. nitrate of soda +2 lb. superphosphate +1 to 2 lb. basic slag +3 lb. kainit + + +CELERY requires the use of dung more than almost any other crop, and it +is little affected by artificial manures, except phosphates, which may +be given in the form of superphosphate at the rate of 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 lb +per square rod. + +LETTUCE. + +_With dung_. +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate +1/2 to 1 lb. nitrate of soda + +_Without dung._ +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate +1 to 1-1/2 lb. nitrate of soda +1 lb. sulphate of potash + +ONIONS never succeed without an ample supply of potash. This crop +should therefore have farmyard dung, or the special potash fertilisers +in adequate quantity. + +_With dung._ +3/4 lb. nitrate of soda +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +_Without dung._ +1-1/2 to 2-1/2 lb. nitrate of soda +5 lb. superphosphate +1 lb. sulphate of potash + +LEEKS require the same fertilisers as Onions, but will need little or +no nitrate if good dung is used. + +POTATO.—For good yield, high quality, and freedom from disease, +Potatoes are dependent upon a good supply of potash. They do best when +supplied with a moderate amount of farmyard manure, supplemented by +suitable artificials, but can be grown on some soils with artificials +alone. + +_With dung_. +3/4 lb. sulphate of ammonia +3 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +_Without dung_. +1-1/2 lb. sulphate of ammonia +3-1/2 lb. superphosphate +1 to 1-1/2 lb. sulphate of potash + +Instead of superphosphate, a mixture of this fertiliser with an equal +amount of bone meal or basic slag may be used, and either 4 lb. of +kainit and 1 lb. of muriate of potash instead of 1 lb. of sulphate of +potash. + +RHUBARB.—An annual dressing of dung is beneficial, together with 6 lb. +of basic slag, 1 lb. of sulphate of potash, and 4 lb. of nitrate of +soda, half the nitrate being applied when growth commences and the +remainder a fortnight later. + +SPINACH. + +_With dung_. +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate +2 to 3 lb. nitrate of soda + +_Without dung_ +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate +1 lb. sulphate of potash +3 to 4 lb. nitrate of soda + +TOMATOES need large supplies of potash and phosphates to induce stocky +growth and abundance of flowers and fruit. Nitrogenous manures should +be withheld until the flowering stage, for they stimulate the +production of rank succulent stems and leaves which are specially +liable to attacks of fungus pests. After the fruit is set the +application of small doses of nitrate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia, +as advised below, greatly assists the swelling of the crop. The +following mixtures worked into the soil will be found beneficial for +Tomatoes:— + +5 to 6 lb. superphosphate 7 to 8 lb. basic slag +1 lb. sulphate of potash _or_ 1 lb. sulphate of potash + +Nitrate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia, at the rate of 1-1/2 to 2 lb. +per square rod, may be given with advantage as soon as the fruit is +set. + +TURNIP AND SWEDE.—For the development of fine roots a liberal supply of +phosphates is essential. + +_With dung_. +1 lb. nitrate of soda +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash + +_Without dung_ +2 lb. nitrate of soda +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate +1 lb. sulphate of potash + + + + +THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS FROM SEEDS + + +Whether the modern demand for flowers has created the supply, or the +supply has found an appreciative public, we need not stay to discuss. +The fact remains that the last four or five decades have witnessed a +phenomenal extension in the use of flowers by all classes of the +community, for the decoration of the house no less than for beautifying +the garden. Primarily, this advance of refinement in the popular taste +is traceable to the skill and enthusiastic devotion of the florists who +have supported in all their integrity the true canons of floral +perfection, and whose labours will continue to be imperative for +maintaining the standards of quality. By their severe rules of +criticism the florists further the ends of floriculture subjectively, +and by the actual results of their labours they render objective aid, +their finest flowers serving not only as types, but as the actual stud +for perpetuating each race. Hence the decline of floriculture would +imply the deterioration of flowers, and the prosperity of floriculture +involves progress not only in those subjects which lie within the +florists’ domain, but of many others to which they have not devoted +special attention. Yet the acknowledgment must be made that, brilliant +as their triumphs have been, the methods they practised have in some +instances entailed very severe penalties. Continuous propagation for +many generations, under artificial conditions, so debilitated the +constitution of Hollyhocks, Verbenas, and some other subjects, that the +plants became victims of diseases which at one time threatened their +existence. To save them from annihilation it was necessary to desert +the worn path of propagation, and raise plants possessing the initial +vigour of seedlings. In stamina these seedlings proved eminently +satisfactory, although in other respects they were at first sadly +disappointing. It then became clear that before show flowers could be +obtained from seedlings judgment and skill must be devoted to the art +of saving seed. This was necessarily a work of time, demanding great +patience and rare scientific knowledge. The task was undertaken with +enthusiasm in many directions, and the results have more than justified +this labour of love. Formerly, the universal mode of perpetuating named +Hollyhocks was by the troublesome process of cuttings, or by grafting +buds on roots of seedlings in houses heated to tropical temperature. In +many places it was the custom to lift the old plants, pot them, and +keep them through the winter in pits. All this was found requisite to +insure fine flowers. While the burden of the work was thus rendered +heavy, the constitution of the plant became enfeebled, and at one time +the fear was entertained that its extinction was at hand. But the new +system has preserved the Hollyhock, and at the same time afforded a +striking example of the principle that seed saved scientifically is +found to reproduce the varieties it was taken from. Seedling Hollyhocks +now give double flowers of the finest quality; and the seedling plants +are less liable to disease. So with the Verbena. From suitable seed +plants can be raised that will produce the most resplendent flowers, +and instead of propagating a stock to keep over winter, to be stricken +with mildew and cost no end of care, only to become diseased at last, a +pinch of seed is sown in January or February, and soon there is a stock +of healthy plants possessing the vigour peculiar to seedlings. These, +being bedded out at a proper time, flower far more freely than plants +from cuttings, and produce trusses twice the size. + +To illustrate the change of method still further we may instance the +Cineraria. Formerly this was a troublesome plant to grow, because it +was considered necessary to propagate named varieties by divisions and +suckers. The restricted system was reflected in limited cultivation. +Few were willing to venture on a task known to be hedged about with +difficulties. By degrees it was discovered that the finest Cinerarias +might be secured by simply sowing seed, and giving the plants the usual +cultivation of tender annuals. This has brought the Cineraria within +the reach of thousands who would not attempt to grow it under the old +system, and the consequent gain to society is immense. + +What has been done with the Cineraria has its parallel in quite a +number of the most elegant decorative flowers. Brilliant results have +been achieved with Begonias, Calceolarias, Cyclamens, Gloxinias, +Primulas, and Schizanthus. It has also ceased to be needful to keep +such large stocks of bedding and other plants through the winter, for +Ageratums, Lobelias, and Pansies have proved amenable to the new +treatment, and very much of the accustomed labour in striking and +potting cuttings, as well as the expense of glass, fuel, and the +frequent purchase of high-priced plants, have been rendered +unnecessary. Even among the flowers which are properly designated +annuals, new and delightful variations have been obtained from original +types. Of these we have examples in Aster, Godetia, Larkspur, +Mignonette, Phlox Drummondii, Poppy, Stock, Sweet Pea, and many others. +In some instances the increase in the size of the flowers is +remarkable, and in others the development of new tints will surprise +those who are not familiar with the labours of modern hybridisers. + +Thus a revolution has been accomplished in the economy and complexion +of the English Flower Garden, a revolution which has reduced and +simplified the gardener’s labours, augmented the number and enhanced +the beauty of many flowers, effected a marked saving in the cost of +garden pleasures, and brought the culture of a large number of the most +attractive subjects within the means of those who had neither the +facilities nor the knowledge requisite for pursuing the florist’s +methods. There appear to be no limits to further progress. All that we +can do is to experiment and gather knowledge, and those who love +gardening may assist in extending the area of this new and cheap system +of producing some of the most elegant garden flowers in one season from +seed alone. + +The time and the method of sowing flower seeds must in each case be +regulated by considerations as to their nature. Seeds of tender plants +are usually sown in pots or pans and placed on a moderate hot-bed or in +a propagating house early in spring, and in this case the plants have +greenhouse cultivation until the time arrives for hardening them off +preparatory to final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be +treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for +their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks, plants that +differ immensely in habit and constitution, may all be sown in +February, and put side by side in the same warm pit or vinery, or even +in the warmest corner of any greenhouse, and the very same treatment +will suit them equally well. The soil should be principally loam and +sand, with a little old thoroughly well-rotted manure from a hot-bed or +compost heap; and light, air, and moisture must be regulated with a +view to insure a free and vigorous growth from the first, with the +least possible amount of artificial heat. In some cases, however, the +sowing should be deferred to March or April, and the result will be far +more satisfactory than the growth made under the stimulus of artificial +heat earlier in the season. But in every case the plants must have +sufficient time; for although the rapid system has been developed, the +constitution of the plants remains unchanged, and those which have +heretofore been classed as biennials and perennials need a long season +when treated as annuals. + +A considerable proportion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed +by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as +an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame and some +packets of seed, and the month of February or March has arrived. The +pans and pots are made ready with sweet sandy compost, and the seeds +are sown and labelled, and the pans and pots are packed together in the +frame on a bed of clean coal ashes, or some slates, or tiles, or bricks +laid on the soil, to promote warmth and cleanliness and to prevent the +intrusion of worms among the seeds. By simple management almost as +quick a growth of seeds can be insured in this frame as with the aid of +a hot-bed, and the secret consists in careful storage of the heat of +the sun. Lay over the seed-pans sheets of glass to prevent evaporation, +and let the sun shine full upon them. Be careful as to moisture: they +must never be wet, never dry, and the water must not be slopped about +carelessly. It is a good rule to immerse the pots or pans in a vessel +containing soft water, slightly tepid. When the seedlings begin to +appear, give a little air and lay sheets of paper tenderly over them +during the hour or two at midday when the sun may be shining brightly. +But keep them from the first as ‘hard’ as possible with plenty of light +and air, always taking care that they are neither roasted, nor blown +away by the cruel east wind, nor nipped at night by a killing frost. A +few old mats or light loppings of trees laid over the frame from +sundown to sunrise will be sufficient protection at those trying times; +and when spring frosts are making havoc with the tender sprouting leaf +and bloom in every part of the garden those little things will be safe +under their glass cover, and slight experience will show that a common +frame may become a miniature hot-house in the hands of one who has +learned to make failure the stepping-stone to success. We must not omit +to mention that the owner of such a garden, or, indeed, of any garden, +will be prudent to take advantage of the first fine weather to sow in +the open ground whatever flower or vegetable seeds should be sown at +that season. The frame garden can be reserved, if needful, for wet +weather, because it is of the utmost importance to sow a good breadth +of seeds in the open ground as early as possible in the month of March. + +Turning from this small example to the great garden, it will be obvious +that to those who always have heavy work on hand the advantages of this +transference, of labour from the old system to the new are immense. +Both to employers and gardeners the advantages are of importance; the +propagation of bedders by cuttings, and of florists’ flowers by suckers +and divisions and layers and pipings, will not, of course, be +completely abolished; but for all ordinary purposes the ends in view +may be accomplished more simply, more expeditiously, and more cheaply +than heretofore. The pits hitherto appropriated to bedders, and the +like, may to a great extent be liberated, and there will be no +difficulty in finding for them more profitable occupants. While +Mushrooms and early Potatoes and winter salads are in request, it will +be a gain to many a garden to have reduced the summer display of +flowers to a simple system of seed-sowing, at an expense that may be +described as merely nominal. + +Before dealing specifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable +to say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy, +Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials. + +Annuals.—Although the most popular kinds of annuals are largely +employed in the embellishment of flower gardens, they are adapted for +many uses to which they may with advantage be more frequently applied. +A few misconceptions prevail as to the relative merits of this class of +plants. By some they are regarded as ‘weedy’ and ‘short-lived.’ Their +very cheapness, and the relatively small amount of skill required in +their cultivation, tend in some degree to detract from their value in +public estimation. We will not be so rash as to say that a more +extended use of annuals would render unnecessary the cultivation of +what are especially known as ‘bedding plants’; but there is something +to be said on behalf of annuals that may be worth the consideration of +all who are interested in the development of freshness, variety, and +richness of colour in the flower garden. In the first place, these +plants come into flower within a comparatively short period of time +from the sowing of the seed, and it is a matter of considerable +importance that a large proportion of the best continue beautiful until +the very close of the season. Sometimes in the autumn Geraniums become +literally washed out, while Tom Thumb Nasturtiums may be ablaze with +colour, and continue so when the Geraniums are housed for the winter. A +large number of showy and long-lasting annuals are adapted for +employment in bedding, and by a little management those that do not +last the season out may be replaced by others for succession; thus +affording the advantage of increased variety, and making no demand for +glass and fuel to keep them through the winter as do the ordinary +bedders. We have had great and glorious sheets of Candytufts, +snow-white, rich crimson, and bright carmine; and when they began to +wane they were removed, and the ground planted with Asters, and very +soon there was another display, so fresh and bright and various that no +greenhouse bedders could surpass them. Great hungry banks, that would +have swallowed many pounds’ worth of greenhouse plants to cover them, +have been made delightfully gay at a very trifling cost by sowing upon +them Tropæolums, Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, _Bartonia aurea_, the dwarf +varieties of _Lupinus_, Virginian Stock, _Collinsia bicolor_, +Convolvuluses, Candytufts, Eschscholtzias, Poppies, and Clarkias; and +damp, half-shady borders have been delicately tessellated by means of +Forget-me-nots, Venus’ Looking-glass, Pansies, the Rosy Oxalis, +Nemophilas, Godetias, Silenes, Coreopsis, and Scabious. + +For the more important positions in the flower garden we have choice of +many really sumptuous subjects, such as Stocks, Asters, Balsams, +Drummond’s Phlox, Lobelias, the lovely new varieties of Antirrhinums, +Dianthus, Portulacas, Zinnias, tall Stock-flowered Larkspurs, Nemesias, +and many other flowers equally beautiful and lasting. We do not hope by +these brief remarks to change the prevailing fashion—indeed, we have no +particular wish that way—but we feel bound to observe that it is +sufficient for the beauty of the garden that the greenhouse bedders +should be confined to the parterre proper. It is waste of space and +opportunity to place them in the borders everywhere, as is too commonly +done. In sunny borders, annual and perennial herbaceous plants are far +more appropriate. + +Some time since, while walking over a large garden, we left the rich +colouring of the geometric beds to discover what should make the +wondrous glow of crimson on a border far away; and to our surprise it +proved to be a clump of the Indian Pink, which had been sown as an +annual with other annuals, and was there shining in the midst of a +constellation of the loveliest flowers of all forms and hues, the +result simply of sowing a few packets of seed. No one can despise the +Wallflower in the spring, and the heavenly-blue flowers of _Nemophila +insignis_ in early summer will tempt many a one to walk in the garden +who would care little for sheets of scarlet and yellow that in full +sunshine make the eyes ache to look upon them. It must be remembered, +too, that among annuals are found many most richly-scented flowers; +others, like the everlastings and the grasses, are valuable to dry for +winter use for employment in bouquets, and garlands in Christmas +decorations; and the Sweet Peas, and _Tropæolum canariense,_ and +climbing Convolvulus may be employed to cover arbours and trellises +with the best effect possible, and may even be allowed to hang in +festoons about the sunny parts of rockeries, or trail over the ground +to make genuine bedding effects. Another important matter must have +mention here, and we commend it to the consideration of gardeners who +are severely taxed to secure extensive displays of flowers during the +summer season. It is that a number of plants of highly ornamental +character, usually treated as perennials, are really more effective, +besides occasioning less labour to produce them, when cultivated as +annuals. The Dianthus and its several splendid varieties do better as +annuals than biennials. For all the ordinary purposes of display, +Lobelias may be as well grown from seed as from cuttings, and in every +garden will be found proof of the small amount of care they require; +for we find stray, self-sown plants in pots of Geraniums and other +places, and these, if left alone, become perfect bushes, and are a mass +of flowers all the summer. Many annuals commonly reputed to be tender +and usually raised in heat do very well indeed on a more rough and +ready method. In proof of this, sow _Perilla nankinensis_ in the first +week of May where it is required, and in the month of July you will +probably be convinced that Perilla does not always need careful nursing +in heated houses through the spring. Even the really tender Castor-oil +Plant will thrive if sown in the open ground the first week in May. +Having no check, as plants put out from pots must have, the growth will +be regular and sturdy, and attain magnificent dimensions. + +Perhaps the most effective way of growing annuals is to arrange them in +harmonious blendings or contrasts of colour. The wide choice of +varieties available admits of an almost endless number of combinations, +and the following tables, classified according to colour, will no doubt +afford some serviceable suggestions, although these by no means exhaust +the list. The height is indicated in feet and Climbers as ‘Cl.’ + +WHITE, AND CREAM SHADES. + +TALL. +Chrysanthemum coronarium, Princess May 3 +Chrysanthemum coronarium, Double white 3 +Cornflower, White 3 +Helichrysum, Silver Globe 3 +Larkspur, Stock-flowered, White 3 +Lavatera alba splendens 3 +Poppy, Giant Double, White 3 +Poppy Giant Single, White 3 +Scabious, Snowball 3 +Chrysanthemum carinatum album 2-1/2 +Chrysanthemum Dunnetti, Double white 2-1/2 +Nasturtium, Tall, Pearl Cl. +MEDIUM. +Clarkia elegans, Snowball 2 +Lupinus Hartwegii, White 2 +Malope, White 2 +Poppy, White Swan 2 +Shirley, Double White 2 +Calendula pluvialis 1-1/2 +Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum +Clarkia, Double White 1-1/2 +Gilia nivalis 1-1/2 +Gypsophila elegans 1-1/2 +Hawkweed, White 1-1/2 +Hawkweed Silver 1-1/2 +Jacobea, Double, White 1-1/2 +Sweet Sultan, Giant White 1-1/2 +Chrysanthemum coronarium, +Dwarf double white 1-1/4 +DWARF. +Acroclinium, Single White 1 +Candytuft, Improved White Spiral 1 +Clarkia, Dwarf white 1 +Clarkia Double dwarf white 1 +Convolvulus minor, White 1 +Eschscholtzia crocea alba 1 +Godetia, Duchess of Albany 1 +Layia elegans alba 1 +Linaria, Snow-white 1 +Nasturtium, Dwarf, Pearl 1 +Platystemon californicus 1 +Viscaria, Pure White 1 +Alyssum, Sweet 3/4 +Chrysanthemum inodorum plenis-simum, +Bridal Robe 3/4 +Collinsia candidissima 3/4 +Godetia, Dwarf White 3/4 +Swan River Daisy, White 3/4 +Swan River Daisy Star White 3/4 +Venus’ Looking-glass, White 3/4 +Venus’ Navel-wort 3/4 +Virginian Stock, White 3/4 +Candytuft, Little Prince 1/2 +Nemophila insignis alba 1/2 +Alyssum minimum 1/3 +Silene, Dwarf White 1/3 +YELLOW AND ORANGE SHADES +TALL. +Sunflower, Giant Yellow 10 +Sunflower Primrose Perfection 6 +Sunflower Miniature 4 +Sunflower Stella 4 +Sunflower Primrose Stella 4 +Chrysanthemum coronarium, +Chrysanthemum Double yellow 3 +Chrysanthemum, Golden Queen 3 +Coreopsis tinctoria 3 +Helichrysum, Golden Globe 3 +Sunflower, Dwarf Double 3 +Sunflower Single Dwarf 3 +Chrysanthemum Dunnettii, +Chrysanthemum Double Golden 2-1/2 +Marigold, African 2-1/2 +Nasturtium, Ivy-leaved Golden Gem Cl. +Nasturtium, Tall, Yellow Cl. +MEDIUM. +Hibiscus africanus major 2 +Bartonia aurea 1-1/2 +Chrysanthemum, Star varieties 1-1/2 +Coreopsis Drummondii 1-1/2 +Coreopsis coronata 1-1/2 +Erysimum, Orange Gem 1-1/2 +Hawkweed, Yellow 1-1/2 +Leptosyne Stillmani 1-1/2 +Lupinus Menziesii 1-1/2 +Sweet Sultan, Yellow 1-1/2 +DWARF. +Calendula, Orange King 1 +Calendula Lemon Queen 1 +Cheiranthus Allionii 1 +Chrysanthemum coronarium, +Chrysanthemum coronarium, Dwarf double yellow 1 +Dimorphotheca aurantiaca 1 +Eschscholtzia californica 1 +Escholtzia, crocea 1 +Escholtzia, crocea fl. pl. 1 +Eschscholtzia, Mikado 3/4 +Layia elegans 1 +Lupinus, Dwarf yellow 1 +Nasturtium, Dwarf, Cloth of Gold 1 +Nasturtium, Dwarf, Yellow 1 +Tagetes signata pumila 1 +Tagetes Mandarin 3/4 +Linaria, Golden Gem 3/4 +Marigold, Miniature orange 3/4 +Marigold Miniature orange 3/4 +Eschscholtzia, Miniature Primrose 1/2 +Limnanthes Douglasii 1/2 +Sanvitalia procumbens, Single 1/2 +Sanvitalia Double 1/2 +Leptosiphon aureus 1/4 +BLUE, MAUVE, AND PURPLE SHADES. + +TALL. +Cornflower, Blue 3 +Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Blue 3 +Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Pale Mauve 3 +Lupinus, Tall dark blue 3 +Poppy, Giant Double, Mauve 3 +Scabious, Mauve 3 +MEDIUM. +Godetia, Double Mauve 2 +Lupinus Hartwegii, Azure Blue 2 +Poppy, Mauve Queen 2 +Sweet Sultan, Purple 2 +Xeranthemum superbissimum 2 +Xeranthemum imperiale 2 +Anchusa, Annual Blue 1-1/2 +Gilia capitata 1-1/2 +Gilia tricolour 1-1/2 +Jacobea, Double, Purple 1-1/2 +Nigella, Miss Jekyll 1-1/2 +Phacelia tanacetifolia 1-1/2 +Salvia, Blue Beard 1-1/2 +Sweet Sultan, Giant Delicate Mauve 1-1/2 +Sweet Sultan, Giant Mauve 1-1/2 +DWARF. +Asperula azurea setosa 1 +Candytuft, Lilac 1 +Convolvulus minor, Dark blue 1 +Convolvulus Sky-blue 1 +Cornflower, King of Blue Bottles 1 +Eutoca viscida 1 +Linaria, Mauve 1 +Lupinus, Dwarf rich blue 1 +Mathiola bicornis 1 +Phacelia congesta 1 +Viscaria, Bright Blue 1 +Whitlavia gloxinioides 1 +Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf blue 3/4 +Leptosiphon androsaceus 3/4 +Nigella, Double dwarf 3/4 +Phacelia campanularia 3/4 +Swan River Daisy, Blue 3/4 +Swan River Daisy, Star Blue 3/4 +Campanula attica 1/2 +Nemophila insignis 1/2 +PINK AND ROSE SHADES + +TALL. +Cornflower, Pink 3 +Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Rosy Scarlet 3 +Lavatera rosea splendens 3 +Lupinus mutabilis, Cream and Pink 3 +Poppy, Giant Double, Chamois-rose 3 +Scabious, Pink 3 +Nasturtium, Salmon Queen Cl. +Nasturtium, Rosy Queen Cl. +MEDIUM. +Clarkia elegans, Double Salmon 2 +Clarkia elegans, Double Delicate Pink 2 +Godetia, Double Rose 2 +Jacobea, Single, Bright Rose 2 +Poppy, Pink Gem 2 +Poppy, Cardinal, Salmon-pink 2 +Poppy, Shirley, Single Rose-pink 2 +Poppy, Shirley, Double Pink 2 +Saponaria Vaccaria, Pink 2 +Clarkia, Double Rose 1-1/2 +Hawkweed, Pink 1-1/2 +Jacobea, Double, Rose 1-1/2 +Silene Armeria, Rose 1-1/2 +Statice Suworowi 1-1/4 +DWARF. +Acroclinium, Double rose 1 +Acrolinium, Single rose 1 +Convolvulus minor, Pink 1 +Eschscholtzia, Frilled Pink 1 +Escholtzia, Rosy Queen 1 +Escholtzia, Rose cardinal 1 +Gypsophila elegans, Delicate pink 1 +Lupinus, Dwarf delicate pink 1 +Nasturtium, Dwarf, Salmon Pink 1 +Nasturtium, Dwarf, cæruleum roseum 1 +Silene, Double Salmon Pink 1 +Silene, Double Delicate Pink 1 +Silene, Bonetti 1 +Silene, Pseudo-Atocion 1 +Statice spicata 1 +Viscaria, Delicate Pink 1 +Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf rose 3/4 +Godetia, Dwarf Pink 3/4 +Godetia, Satin-rose 3/4 +Abronia umbellata 1/2 +Candytuft, Dwarf Pink 1/2 +Saponaria calabrica 1/2 +Silene, Double Dwarf Delicate Pink 1/3 +Silene, Double Dwarf Brilliant Rose 1/3 +Silene, Bonetti, Dwarf Pink 1/3 +Leptosiphon roseus 1/4 +CRIMSON AND SCARLET SHADES, + +including Carmine and Ruby. +TALL. +Coreopsis atrosanguinea 3 +Helichrysum, Fireball 3 +Poppy, Giant Double, Scarlet 3 +Polygonum, Ruby Gem 2-1/2 +Malope, Red 2 +Nasturtium, Tall, Improved Lucifer Cl. +Nasturtium, Tall, Black Prince Cl. +MEDIUM. +Chrysanthemum atrococcineum 2 +Clarkia elegans, Salmon scarlet 2 +Clarkia elegans, Firefly 2 +Godetia, Double Crimson 2 +Poppy, Cardinal 2 +Cacalia coccinea 1-1/2 +Coreopsis cardaminigolia Dwarf 1-1/2 +DWARF. +Candytuft, Improved Carmine 1 +Candytuft, Dark crimson 1 +Centranthus macrosiphon 1 +Godetia, Crimson King 1 +Godetia, Scarlet Queen 1 +Godetia, Lady Albemarle 1 +Linum grandifiorum rubrum 1 +Nasturtium, Dwarf, Scarlet Queen 1 +Nasturtium, Dwarf, King Theodore 1 +Naturtium, King of Tom Thumbs 1 +Viscaria cardinalis 1 +Collomia coccinea 3/4 +Coreopsis, Dwarf Crimson 3/4 +Eschscholtzia, Ruby King 3/4 +Godetia, Afterglow 3/4 +Godetia, Lady Albemarle, dwarf 3/4 +Saponaria, Scarlet Queen 1/2 +Virginian Stock, Crimson King 1/2 +Viscaria, Dwarf Carmine 1/2 + +Yet one other method of growing annuals calls for special mention. It +is not fully recognised that a number of subjects, usually associated +only with beds and borders, may also be flowered with the greatest ease +under glass in winter and early spring. Those who have not hitherto +attempted the culture of annuals in this way will be delighted with the +charming effects produced. Among the subjects most suitable for the +purpose are Alonsoa; the Star and Dunnettii varieties of Annual +Chrysanthemum; _Clarkia elegans; _ Dimorphotheca; _Gypsophila elegans_; +Linaria; _Nemesia Suttoni_; Nicotiana, Miniature White and _N. +affinis_; Phlox, Purity, one of the most lovely pot plants for the +conservatory and of especial value for decorative work at Easter; +Salpiglossis; and the pretty blue, Cineraria-like, Swan River Daisy. +From the fact that these annuals are of the hardy or half-hardy types +it will be readily understood that no great amount of heat is required +to bring them to maturity; indeed, the more hardy the treatment the +better for their well-doing. Seed should be sown during August or +September in pots or pans placed in a cool frame, the seedlings being +pricked off into other pots as soon as they have attained a suitable +size. As colder weather approaches, transfer to the greenhouse or +conservatory, and provided the night temperature is not allowed to fall +below 45° all should be well. During the day give the plants the +maximum of air whenever weather permits. + +Hardy Annuals.—The seeds should be sown on a carefully prepared surface +from which large stones have been removed, and the clods must be +broken, but the soil should not be made so smooth as to become pasty +under rain. Sow thinly, in rows spaced to agree with the height of the +plant, cover with a very slight coat of fine dry earth—the smallest +seeds needing but a mere dusting to cover them—and, from the first, +keep the plants thinned sufficiently to prevent overcrowding. +Spring-sown annuals are worthy of a better soil than they usually have +allotted them, and also of more careful treatment. It is not wise to +sow earlier than March or later than the middle of April. In the +after-culture the most important matter is to keep the clumps well +thinned. Not only will the bloom of crowded plants be comparatively +poor and brief, but by early and bold thinning the plants will become +so robust, and cover such large spaces of ground with their ample +leafage and well-developed flowers, as really to astonish people who +think they know all about annuals, and who may have ventured after much +ill-treatment to designate them ‘fugacious and weedy.’ Although the +sowing of hardy annuals direct on to beds and borders where the plants +are wanted is economical in labour and avoids the check which +transplanting occasions, the practice of raising annuals on specially +prepared seed-beds and pricking out the plants to blooming quarters is +sometimes followed. The soil into which they are transferred for +flowering should be deeply dug, thoroughly broken up, and, if at all +poor, liberally manured. It is an excellent plan also to sow hardy +annuals outdoors in autumn, but it is needless to say more on this +subject here, as it is dealt with fully at page 313. + +Half-hardy Annuals.—Give these as long a period of growth as possible +to insure a vigorous plant before the season of flowering. The best +time for sowing is February, or the beginning of March; for although +some kinds may with advantage be sown earlier, it is safer, as a rule, +to wait for sunshine and full daylight, so as to keep up a steady and +continuous growth. The soil for the seed-pans should be rich and fine. +Good loam, improved by the addition of thoroughly decayed manure and +leaf-mould, with sufficient sand to render the texture porous, will +suit all kinds of annuals that are sown in pans under glass. Sow the +seed thinly, cover very slightly, and lay squares of glass over to keep +a uniform degree of moisture without the necessity of watering. Should +watering become necessary, take care to avoid washing the seeds out. If +the pans or pots are stood in a vessel containing several inches depth +of water until sufficient has been absorbed, there will be no occasion +to pour water on the surface. A gentle heat is to be preferred; when +germination is too rapid it tends to the production of weak plants. As +soon as the young plants appear, remove the glasses and place the +seed-pans in the fullest light, where air can be given without danger +to them. A dry east wind blowing fiercely over them will prove a blast +of death. If they have no air at all, they will be puny, rickety +things, scarcely worth planting out. Choice varieties should be +carefully pricked out into pans and pots as soon as large enough; this +will promote a fine, stocky growth and a splendid development of +flowers. Take care not to plant out until the weather is favourable, +for any great check will undo all your work, and make starvelings of +your nurslings. If you cannot command heat for half-hardy annuals, sow +in the first week in April, put the pans in a frame facing south, and +the seeds will soon grow and do well. If that is too much trouble, sow +in the open border early in May, making the border rich and friable, +that they may have a good chance from the first. + +Tender Annuals.—These require the same general treatment as advised for +half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat than +is necessary for annuals that are to be planted out. It is also +requisite to be in good time in pricking out the seedlings, for if they +get much drawn they cannot make robust pot plants. A light, rich, +perfectly sweet soil, containing a fair proportion of sharp sand, is +necessary to insure plants worth having. It is also important to get +them into separate small pots as soon as possible, and to shift them on +to larger and larger pots, until they have sufficient pot room for +flowering, after which shift no more. As soon as these pots are filled +with roots, give very weak manure water constantly until the plants are +in flower, and then discontinue it, using instead pure soft water only. + +Hardy Biennials and Perennials.—These are often sown in pans or boxes, +and are pricked off when large enough into other pans or pots before +they are transferred to beds or borders. The system has certain +advantages in insuring safety from vermin and proper attention, for it +is an unfortunate fact that too many cultivators consider it needless +to thin or transplant sowings made in beds or borders. The plants are +frequently allowed to struggle for existence, and the result is feeble +attenuated specimens which, with trifling care and attention, might +have become robust and capable of producing a bountiful bloom in their +season. Still, it should be clearly understood that all the hardy +biennials and perennials may be grown to perfection by sowing on a +suitable seed-bed in the open ground, protecting the spot from +marauders of all kinds, and by early and fearless thinning or +transplanting. As a rule, we advocate one shift before placing the +plants in final positions. + +ABUTILON + +Half-hardy greenhouse perennial + +Handsome plants, two feet or more in height, can be produced from seed +and flowered in a single season. They are useful for training to +greenhouse walls, and they may also be transferred to open borders for +the summer. When employed for the latter purpose, the plants should be +lifted and put into pots about the end of August, after there has been +a penetrating shower. In the absence of rain a soaking of water on the +previous day will prevent the soil from falling away from the roots. + +February and March are the right months for sowing seed, and for the +pots any fairly light compost will answer. Prick off the seedlings when +about an inch high, putting the plants in down to the seed-leaves. They +must never be allowed to suffer for want of water, nor should they be +starved in small pots. The growth had better not be hurried at any +stage; the plants will then develop into shapely specimens with very +little care. + +ACHIMENES + +Greenhouse or stove perennials + +Although Achimenes can be propagated by division of the tubers, the +simpler method of raising a supply from seed has become a common +practice. During March or April sow in pots or pans, and while quite +small transfer the seedlings to separate pots. It is important to +insure free drainage, especially as frequent watering is a necessity +while the plants are in active growth. Achimenes are generally kept in +a high temperature; but they do not really need so much heat as +Gloxinias, and in a warm greenhouse they can be flowered without the +least difficulty. This is one of the finest subjects for growing in +hanging-baskets. + +ALONSOA + +These popular half-hardy flowers are not only valuable for a summer +display in borders, but they make charming subjects for the +conservatory in the spring months. For blooming outdoors seed may be +sown in pans in March and the plants treated in the manner usual for +half-hardy annuals, or a sowing can be made in the open towards the end +of April. Plants for flowering indoors in April and May should be +raised from seed sown in the preceding August and September. Grow on +the seedlings steadily in pots, but do not force them in any way. In +fact, the treatment should be as nearly hardy as possible, a night +temperature of 45° being generally sufficient to carry them through the +winter. + +AMARYLLIS + +Hippeastrum + +The majority of the named varieties are expensive, and a very +considerable saving is effected by raising plants from seed. Thanks to +the skill of the hybridiser, the seedlings not only compare favourably +with flowers grown from costly bulbs, but they have been successful in +winning certificates and awards of merit. + +The germination is so irregular that it is well to put only one seed in +each small pot. The most suitable soil is a mixture of two parts loam +and one of leaf-mould, with sufficient coarse grit to insure free +drainage. The proper temperature is about 65°. After the seedlings are +established follow the treatment advised on page 340. + +ANEMONE + +The Windflower. Hardy perennial + +The discovery that it is easy to flower the popular St. Brigid and +similar Anemones from seed in about seven months from the date of +sowing has given a great impetus to the culture of this plant, +especially as it possesses a high value for decorating vases, in +addition to its usefulness in beds and borders. From seed sown in +February or March the plants should begin to bloom in September or +October of the same year, and continue to flower until the following +June, when it is unprofitable to retain them longer. No coddling of any +kind is necessary. Dig a trench in a sheltered, sunny spot, and fill it +with rich soil freely mingled with decayed cow-manure. If the land +happens to be somewhat tenacious, Anemones will take kindly to it, but +it should be well worked, and it may be needful to add a little fine +sandy compost at the top as a preparation for the seed. The woolly seed +should be rubbed with sand, and the two may be sown together thinly in +lines. As a finish the ground should be lightly beaten with the back of +a spade. Germination is decidedly slow, so that until the seedlings +appear the removal of weeds requires care. The plants should be thinned +until they stand six inches apart. Seed may also be sown in June or +July for plants to flower in the following year, and the results will +probably be even more satisfactory than from the spring sowing. + +ANTIRRHINUM + +Snapdragon. Hardy perennial + +In bygone years Antirrhinums were seldom seen beyond the limits of +old-fashioned cottage gardens. But even then the Snapdragon was a +popular flower, and it was generally perpetuated by subdivision of the +plants. Now, in common with a large number of perennials and biennials, +the Antirrhinum is almost exclusively grown from seed. This altered +method of culture has resulted in a marked advance in the size and +colour of the spikes of bloom, and has also increased the vigour and +floriferous character of the plants. In the process of raising, +selecting and re-selecting the stocks, experts have found it possible +to develop three distinct classes—Tall, Intermediate, and Dwarf—so that +the value of the plant as an ornament in the garden has been advanced +beyond the dreams of a former generation of gardeners. The Tall +varieties attain a height of about three feet; the Intermediates +generally range between twelve and eighteen inches, and the Dwarf or +Tom Thumb section seldom exceeds six inches. All three classes have a +distinct value for different positions in the garden. + +Antirrhinums are not fastidious as to soil and may be relied on to give +satisfaction in almost any spot chosen for them. Still, it must be +admitted that they are conspicuously successful on dry soils and in +sunny positions. This will account for the surprising displays +occasionally seen on old walls and in large wild rockeries, where they +are perfectly at home, apparently indifferent to the starving +conditions in which their lot is cast. + +The fact that the plant possesses such sturdy independence of character +greatly enhances its value and usefulness. Nothing more handsome can be +imagined in a border than the gigantic spikes of the Tall varieties, +and they make a magnificent decoration for vases at a season when +flowers suitable for cutting are much needed. The Intermediate +Antirrhinums, like the Tall class, combine advantages for both bedding +purposes and for cutting, perhaps in a still greater degree. The +varieties are so numerous and charming that an enthusiast has suggested +the desirability of devoting a garden to Antirrhinums alone. Although +the Tom Thumb section is also frequently employed for bedding, these +dwarf-growing varieties are better adapted for ribbon borders, or as an +edging to carriage drives. + +Antirrhinums may be grown as half-hardy annuals or as perennials, but +the former is the simplest course for obtaining plants for summer +bedding. Sow the seeds in pans or boxes from January to March, and +prick off the seedlings as soon as large enough to handle. Grow on +steadily and gradually harden off in readiness for planting out after +the Wallflowers and other spring bedders have been removed. After +flowering it will save trouble to consign the plants to the waste heap +and again raise a sufficient supply to fill their places in the +following spring. When grown as perennials, seed should be sown in July +or August. Leave the plants in the seed-bed until ready for transfer to +final positions. These will stand the winter and come into flower +earlier than plants from spring-sown seed. + +AQUILEGIA + +Columbine. Hardy perennial + +Since the introduction of the long-spurred hybrid varieties the +Aquilegia has become exceedingly popular. Like the Nasturtium, it is +particularly accommodating in character, and will thrive on poor soil +and amid surroundings altogether uncongenial to many other subjects. +Several of the fine varieties which have been recently introduced are, +however, worthy of a place in the best of borders. Sow in February or +early in March in a frame, and plant out when strong enough, or sow in +June in an open border. If the season is favourable, those sown early +may bloom the first year; the remainder will flower in the year +following. + +ASPARAGUS + +Greenhouse foliage varieties. Half-hardy perennials + +The finely laciniated foliage of _A. plumosus_ is greatly prized for +bouquets, and the plant invariably commands attention as a decorative +subject on the table or in the conservatory. _A. decumbens_ has long +tremulous branches of elegant dark green foliage, and the plant is +admirably adapted for hanging-baskets. _A. Sprengeri_ is distinct from +both, but is also very ornamental in baskets. Sow all three varieties +in pans during February or March, in heat; prick off the seedlings +immediately they are large enough to handle, and grow on in gentle heat +until the beginning of June, when cool-house treatment will suit them. + +ASTER + +Callistephus sinensis. Half-hardy annual + +In high summer so many flowers are available that no difficulty arises +in making a varied display. The real trouble is in discarding, +especially for a limited area. But when summer begins to merge into +autumn the choice is not so extensive, and among the annuals which then +adorn the garden Asters are indispensable. This superb flower has been +developed into many forms, and each class affords a wide range of +magnificent colours. Yet it must be admitted that in the majority of +gardens Asters are seldom grown in sufficient numbers, and it is not +unusual to find the flowers small in size and poor in colour. In many +cases we believe the reason to be that the culture of Asters is often +commenced too late. Preparations should therefore be made in good time, +and apart from providing the requisite number of plants for filling +beds and borders, and for supplying cut blooms, others should be raised +for flowering in pots. For indoor decoration full use is rarely ever +made of Asters, although the colours include many delightful shades +which may be employed with most telling effect. + +To secure a long-continued display of bloom there must be several +sowings, and the earliest will need the aid of artificial heat. One +secret of successful culture is to give no check to the plant from its +first appearance until the time of flowering; and a suitable bed must +be prepared, whether the seed be sown on the spot or plants are +transferred from other quarters. + +Asters do not readily accommodate themselves to violent alternations of +heat and cold, particularly in the early stage of growth, and therefore +the most sheltered position in the garden should be chosen for them; +but avoid a hedge or shrubbery, where strong growing trees rob the soil +of its virtue. Begin the preparation of beds during the previous autumn +by deep digging, and incorporate a liberal dressing of well-rotted +manure as the work proceeds. On light and shallow soils it will do more +harm than good to bring the raw subsoil to the surface, but the subsoil +may with advantage be stirred and loosened by the fork, and if a little +loamy clay can be worked into it the land will be permanently +benefited. + +A very stiff soil will, however, present greater difficulties; but if +by free working it can be made sufficiently friable, Asters will revel +in it, and produce flowers of a size and colour that will reward the +cultivator for all his trouble. Throw the ground up roughly in October. +The more it is exposed to the action of wind, snow and frost, the more +thoroughly will the winter disintegrate its particles and render it +fertile. Early in spring give another digging, and then work in a good +supply of decayed manure, together with grit, charcoal, wood ashes, or +other material that will help to render the soil rich and free. Aim at +inducing the roots to go down deep for supplies—there will then be a +cool moist bottom even in dry weather, and these conditions will do +much toward the production of fine stocky plants capable of carrying an +imposing display of flowers. + +For sowings from the end of March to the middle of April prepare a +compost consisting principally of decayed leaf-mould, with sufficient +loam to render it firm, and sharp sand to secure drainage. Either pots +or seed-pans may be used. Place these in a cool greenhouse, or in a +Cucumber or Melon pit, or even on a half-spent hot-bed. Sow thinly; a +thick sowing is very likely to damp off. Just hide the seed with finely +sifted soil, and place sheets of glass at the top to prevent rapid +evaporation. Give no water unless the soil becomes decidedly dry, and +then it is better to immerse the pot or pan for half an hour than to +apply water on the surface. When the plants attain the third leaf they +can be pricked off into shallow boxes or round the edges of 3-1/2 inch +pots. From these they either may have another shift singly into small +pots, or may be transferred direct to blooming quarters. A high +temperature is not requisite at any stage of growth, indeed it is +distinctly injurious. From 55° to 65° is the extreme range, and the +happy medium should, if possible, be maintained. Give air on every +suitable occasion, and as the time for transferring to the open ground +approaches, endeavour to approximate nearly to the outside temperature. +The plants will then scarcely feel the removal. + +Another and simpler proceeding produces fairly good results, and we +describe it for the benefit of those whose resources may be small, or +who do not care to adopt the more troublesome method. In some spot +shaded from the sun make a heap of stable manure, rather larger than +the light to be placed upon it. Level the top, and cover with four or +five inches of rich soil. Place a frame upon it with the light a trifle +open. When the thermometer indicates 60°, draw drills at six inches +apart; sow the seed, and cover with a little sifted soil. The light had +better not be quite closed, in case of a rise of temperature. As the +plants thrive, gradually give more air, until, in April, the showers +may be allowed to fall directly upon them in the daytime. When the +Asters are about three inches high they will be quite ready for the +open ground, and a showery day is favourable to the transfer. After the +bed has served its purpose, the manure will be in capital condition for +enriching the garden. + +In the event of there being no frame to spare, drive a stake into each +corner of the bed. Connect the tops of the stakes, about one foot from +the surface of the bed, with four rods securely tied, and upon these +place other rods, over and around which any protecting material at +command may be used. With this simple contrivance it is quite possible +to grow Asters in a satisfactory manner. + +The finest Asters are frequently grown in the open air, entirely +without the aid of artificial heat, and indeed without any special +horticultural appliances. Those who possess the best possible resources +will find additional advantage in resorting also to this mode of +culture. It gives another string to the bow, and prolongs the season of +flowering. For open-air sowings in April make the soil level and fine, +and about the middle of that month draw drills three inches deep. In +these place an inch of finely prepared rich soil, and if it is largely +mixed with vegetable ashes, so much the better. The distance between +the drills should be regulated by the variety. For tall-growing Asters +twelve to fifteen inches between the rows will not be too much. Ten +inches will suffice for the dwarfs. Sow the seed thinly and evenly, and +cover carefully with fine soil. Commence early to thin the plants, +always leaving the strongest, and arrange that they finally stand at +from eight to fifteen inches apart according to the sort. + +Keep the ground clean, and before the flowering stage is reached gently +stir the surface, but not deep enough to injure the roots. An +occasional application of weak manure water will be advantageous, but +it must not be allowed to touch the foliage. + +For tall varieties it may be needful to provide support. If so, place a +neat stick on that side of the plant towards which it leans, as this +takes the strain off the tying material, and saves the plant from being +cut or half-strangled. In a dry season, and especially on light soils, +there must be a bountiful supply of soft water, alternated every few +days with the manure water already alluded to. Evening is the best time +to apply it. + +For show purposes rather more room is required than we have stated. +Only about five buds should be matured by each plant, and these, of +course, the finest. To prepare flowers for exhibition is in itself an +art, and each cultivator must be guided by his own resources and +experience. + +Asters in pots make excellent decorative subjects. It is only necessary +to lift them carefully from the borders with balls of earth surrounding +the roots, and pot them just before the buds expand, or they may be +potted up while in full flower without flagging. + +The plants are liable to the attacks of aphis, both green and black. +While under glass the pests can be destroyed by fumigation; but in the +open a solution of some good insecticide may be administered with the +syringe at intervals of about three days, until a clearance is +effected. Other foes are the various grubs which attack plants at the +collar. On the first sign of failing vigour, gently remove with a +pointed stick the soil around the plant, and in doing this avoid any +needless disturbance of the roots. Do not be satisfied until the enemy +is destroyed. + +AUBRIETIA + +Hardy perennial + +In the early months of the year few subjects in the garden present so +gay an appearance as Aubrietias, for with the first approach of genial +weather the cushion-like plants burst into a mass of delightful +blossom. For spring bedding, edgings, and the rock garden Aubrietias +are indispensable, and they make a particularly effective show when +grown in conjunction with Yellow Alyssum and White Arabis. Aubrietias +are easily grown from seed sown in May and June. The plants are best +raised in pans of light rich soil and may be put out in autumn where +required to flower in the following spring. + +AURICULA + +Primula Auricula. Hardy perennial + +Keen is the enthusiasm of the Auricula amateur. The only complaint we +ever heard about the flower is that its most devoted admirer cannot +endow it with perpetual youth and beauty. + +It is well to bear in mind that seed from a worthless strain requires +just as much attention as that which is saved with all a florist’s +skill from prize flowers. Some growers advocate sowing immediately the +seed is ripe, but this intensifies the irregular germination that +characterises seed of all the Primula species. Either February, March, +or April may be chosen, and we give preference to the end of February. +Use six-inch pots, and as there must be no doubt about drainage, nearly +half-fill the pots with crocks, cover with a good layer of rough +fibrous loam mingled with broken charcoal, and on the top a mixture of +loam, decayed leaves, and sharp sand. Press the soil firmly down; sow +thinly and regularly, putting the seeds in about half an inch apart; +just cover them with fine soil, and place the pots in a cool frame or +greenhouse, with sheets of glass over to prevent evaporation. Watering +in the ordinary way is apt to wash out the seeds, and it is therefore +advisable to immerse the pots in a vessel containing water until the +soil has become saturated. Wait patiently for the plants. When they +show four or six leaves, prick out into pans or boxes about two inches +apart, and before the seedlings touch each other transfer to small +pots. The surface soil in the pots may be lightly stirred occasionally +to keep it free from moss. The plants must never be allowed to go dry, +but as winter approaches water should be given more sparingly, and +during sharp frosts it may be wise to withhold it entirely. There +really is no need of artificial heat, for the Auricula is a +mountaineer, and can endure both frost and snow. But we prize its +beauty so highly that frames and greenhouses are properly employed for +protecting it from wind, heavy rain, soot, dust, and all the unkind +assaults of a lowland atmosphere, to which it is unaccustomed in a +natural state. Still, the plants should be kept as nearly hardy as +possible. + +The Auricula is a slow-growing plant, and although there will probably +be some flowers from seedlings in the second year, their value must not +be judged until the following season. To the trained eye of the florist +the Show Auriculas take precedence over the Alpine section; but for +general usefulness the Alpines hold the first place. They may be +fearlessly put into the open border, and especially the north border, +where, with scarcely any care at all, they will endure the winter, and +freely show their lovely flowers in spring. + +BALSAM + +Impatiens Balsamina. Half-hardy annual + +The older methods of growing Balsams prescribed a false system, +comprising disbudding, stopping, and other interferences with the +natural growth of the plant. The rule of pinching back the leader to +promote the growth of side shoots, and removing the flower buds to +increase the size of the plants, was altogether vicious, because the +natural growth is more elegant and effective. The finest flowers are +produced on the main stem, and these are completely sacrificed by +disbudding. + +It is desirable to make two or three sowings of Balsam, say from the +middle of March to the middle of May, the earlier sowings to be put on +a sweet hot-bed, although March sowings will soon germinate in a frame, +and the May sowing may be made in the open ground on a prepared bed. +The soil at every stage should be rich and light, but not rank in any +degree. Prick out the plants from the seed-pans directly the first +rough leaves show, and soon after shift them again to encourage a stout +dwarf habit. A sunny position should be chosen for the bed, in which +they may be planted out about the first week of June, or earlier if the +weather is particularly favourable. Heat, moisture, and a strong light +favour a fine bloom, and, therefore, water must be given whenever dry +weather prevails for any length of time. If kept sturdy while under +glass, they will need no support of any kind, and although they are +peculiarly fleshy in texture, it is seldom they are injured, even by a +gale. When grown in pots throughout, the chief points are to shift them +often in the early stages, to promote free growth in every reasonable +way, and to cease shifting when they are in pots sufficiently large to +sustain the strength of the plants. Generally speaking, eight-inch pots +will suffice for very fine Balsams, but ten-inch pots may be used for +plants from an early sowing. They will probably not show a flower-bud +while increased pot room is allowed them; but as soon as their roots +touch the sides of the pots the bloom will appear. It is occasionally +the practice to lift plants from beds when pot Balsams are wanted. This +method has the advantage of being the least troublesome, and as the +plants need not be lifted until the flowers show, favourite colours can +be chosen. + +BEGONIA, TUBEROUS-ROOTED + +Begonia hybrida. Half-hardy perennial + +One of the most remarkable achievements in modern horticulture is the +splendid development of single and double Tuberous-rooted Begonias from +the plant as first introduced from the Andes. Originally the flowers +were small, imperfect in form, and deficient in range of colour. But +experts were quick in apprehending the capabilities of this graceful +plant, and it proved to be unusually amenable to the hybridiser’s +efforts. Now the large symmetrical blossoms of both single and double +flowers challenge attention for beauty of form and an almost endless +variation of tints peculiar to the Tuberous-rooted Begonia. The plants +are conspicuous ornaments of the conservatory and greenhouse for +several months, and experience has proved that they make unique +bedders, enduring unfavourable conditions of weather which are fatal to +many of the older bedding subjects. + +From the best strains of seed it is easy, with a little patience, to +raise a fine stock of plants, possessing the highest decorative +qualities. Under generous treatment the seedlings from a January or +February sowing come into bloom during July and August. The seed should +be sown in well-drained pots containing a good compost at the bottom, +with fine sandy loam on the surface, pressed down. Before sowing +sprinkle the soil with water, and sow the seed evenly, barely covering +it with fine earth. A temperature of about 65° is suitable. Germination +is both slow and irregular, and the plants must be pricked off into +pans or small pots as fast as they become large enough to handle. This +process should be followed up so long as seedlings appear and require +transferring. They may be shifted on as the growth of the several +plants may require. Begonias need more attention with reference to an +even temperature during this stage than at any other period. + +The merits of Begonias as bedding plants are now recognised in many +gardens, and they deserve to be still more widely grown. It is wise to +defer planting out until June. In the open ground they produce abundant +supplies of flowers for cutting at the end of September and early in +October, when many other flowers are over. The plants should be put out +when they show themselves sufficiently strong, and it is better to be +guided by the plants than by any fixed date. The beds must be freely +enriched with well-rotted manure and decayed vegetable matter; it can +scarcely be overdone, for Begonias are gross feeders. + +The earliest plants to flower will often be retained in the greenhouse, +as they follow in succession the Cinerarias and Calceolarias. Those +that start later may be turned out as they come into bloom, which will +probably be in June. By deferring the planting out until there is a +show of bloom a selection of various shades of colour is possible, and +this will greatly enhance the beauty of the beds. Begonias are hardier +than is generally supposed; they need no protection, and require no +heat, except in the stage of seedlings, when first forming their +tubers. + +For autumn decoration Begonias should be taken up from the beds during +September and potted, when they will continue to bloom in the +greenhouse or conservatory for a considerable time, and form a useful +addition to the flowering plants of that period. + +If not required for autumn decoration, let the plants remain out as +long as may be safe; then pot off, and place in the greenhouse. Be +careful not to hasten the drying of the bulbs. When the stems fall +Begonias may be stored for their season of rest, allowing them to +remain in the same pots. They can be put away in a dry cellar, or on +the ground, covered up with sand, in any shed or frame where the bulbs +will remain dry and be protected from frost. Both damp and cold are +very injurious to them. The temperature during their season of rest +should be kept as near 50° as possible. When they show signs of growth +in spring they must be put into small-sized pots, almost on the surface +of the soil. As growth increases shift into larger sizes, inserting the +bulb a little deeper each time until the crown is covered. + +BEGONIA, FIBROUS-ROOTEDl + +Begonia semperflorens. Half-hardy perennial + +Fibrous-rooted Begonias are exceedingly valuable for either bedding in +summer or greenhouse decoration during the autumn and winter. They +produce a continual succession of flowers, rather small in size, but +very useful for bouquets, and the plants are charming as table +ornaments. The directions for sowing and after-treatment recommended +for the Tuberous-rooted class will be suitable also for the +Fibrous-rooted varieties, except that the latter must always be kept in +a growing state, instead of being dried off at the end of the flowering +season. Sow seed at the end of January or in February, and again at the +beginning of March. Under fair treatment the first batch of plants will +come into flower for bedding out in June. + +CALCEOLARIA, HERBACEOUS + +Calceolaria hybrida. Greenhouse biennial + +The present magnificent race of Herbaceous Calceolarias, both as to +constitution and the beauty of its flowers, is the result of much +cross-fertilisation of the finest types, so that the best strains are +capable of affording ever-new surprise and delight. The superb +collections exhibited in recent years, which have made lasting +impressions on the public by their form and brilliancy of colour, have +invariably been raised from seeds of selected varieties, saved on +scientific principles that insure vigour, variety, and splendour in the +progeny. + +Calceolarias thrive under intelligent cool-house culture, but it must +be clearly understood that in every stage of growth they are quick in +resenting neglect or careless treatment. The work must be carried out +with scrupulous attention, and the result will more than justify the +labour. Extreme conditions of temperature are distinctly injurious, and +the plants are especially susceptible to a parched, dry atmosphere. + +May is early enough to commence operations, and July is the limit for +sowing. As a rule, the June sowing will produce the quickest, +strongest, and most robust plants. + +The soil, whatever its composition, should be rich, firm, and, above +all, porous. Press it well into the pots or pans, and make the surface +slightly convex and quite smooth. A compost that has been properly +prepared will not need water; but should water become needful, it must +be given by partially submerging the pans. The seed is as fine as +snuff, and requires delicate handling. It is easily lost or blown away, +and therefore it is wise not to open the packet until perfectly ready +to sow. Distribute the seed evenly and sift over it a mere dusting of +fine earth. Place a sheet of glass upon each pot or pan, and the glass +must be either turned or wiped daily. This not only checks rapid +evaporation, but prevents the attacks of vermin. Germination is always +slower on an open than on a close stage. Perhaps the best possible +position is a moist shady part of a vinery, if care be taken when +syringing the vines to prevent the spray from falling upon the +seed-pans. + +Under favourable circumstances, from seven to nine days will suffice to +bring the seedlings up in force, and very few will appear afterwards. +When they are through the soil remove the sheet of glass, and give them +prompt attention, or they will rapidly damp off. Immediately the second +leaf appears, tiny as the plants may be and difficult to handle, +commence pricking them off into other pots prepared to receive them, +for it is unsafe to wait until they become strong. Allow about two +inches between the plants. The occupants of each pan may generally be +pricked off in about three operations, and there should be only the +shortest possible intervals between. + +With many subjects it is a safe rule to use the robust seedlings and +throw the weakly ones away. This practice will not do in the case of +Calceolarias, or some of the most charming colours that can grace the +conservatory or greenhouse will be lost. The strongest seedlings +generally produce flowers in which yellow largely predominates, a fact +that can easily be verified by keeping the plants under different +numbers. But it must not be inferred that because the remainder are +somewhat weaker at the outset they will not eventually make robust +plants. + +Freely mix silver sand with the potting mould, and raise the surface +higher in the centre than at the edge of the pot. From the first +appearance of the seedlings shading is of the utmost importance, for +even a brief period of direct sunshine will certainly prove +destructive. Do not allow the plants to become dry for a moment, but +give frequent gentle sprinklings of water, and rain-water is +preferable. As the soil hardens, stir the surface with a pointed stick, +not too deep, and give water a few hours after. About a month of this +treatment should find each plant in the possession of four or five +leaves. Then prepare thumb pots with small crocks, cover the crocks +with clean moss and fill with rich porous soil. To these transfer the +plants with extreme care, lifting each one with as much soil adhering +to the roots as a skilful hand can make them carry. Place them in a +frame, or in the sheltered part of a greenhouse, quite free from +dripping water. Always give air on suitable days, and on the leeward +side of the house. + +Keep a sharp look-out for aphis, to the attacks of which Calceolarias +are peculiarly liable. Fumigation is the best remedy, and it should be +undertaken in the evening; a still atmosphere renders the operation +more certain. Water carefully on the following morning, and shade from +the sun. + +By September the plants should be in large 60-pots, and it is then +quite time to begin the preparation for wintering. Some growers put +them in heat, and are successful, but the heat must be very moderate, +and even then we regard the practice as dangerous. Place the plants +near the glass, and at one end of the house where they will obtain +plenty of side light, as well as light from above. During severe frosts +it may be well to draw them back or remove them to a shelf lower down +and towards the centre of the house, but they must be restored as soon +as possible to the fullest light obtainable, as they have to do all +their growth under glass. The more air that can safely be given, the +better, and dispense with fire-heat if a temperature of 45° to 55° can +be maintained without it. + +When growth commences in spring, which will generally be early in +March, give each plant its final shift into eight-or ten-inch pots. +This must be done before the buds push up, or there will be more +foliage than flowers. + +The following is the compost we advise: one bushel good yellow loam, +half-bushel leaf-soil, one gallon silver sand, a pound of Sutton’s A 1 +Garden Manure, and a pint of soot, well mixed at least ten days before +use. Any sourness in the soil will be fatal to flowering. The compost +must be carefully ‘firmed’ into the pots, but no severe pressure should +be employed, or the roots will not run freely. + +Neglect as to temperature or humidity will have to be paid for in long +joints, green fly, red spider, or in some other way. But there are no +plants of high quality that grow more thriftily if protected from cold +winds and kept perfectly clean. A light airy greenhouse is their proper +place, and they must have ample headroom. + +After the pots are filled with roots, not before, manure water may be +administered until the flower-heads begin to show colour, when pure +soft water only should be used. About a fortnight in advance of the +full display the branches must be tied to supports. If skilfully +managed the supports will not be visible. + +It may be that a few large specimens are required. If so, shift the +most promising plants into 6-size pots. These large Calceolarias will +need regular supplies of liquid manure until the bloom is well up, and +if the pots are efficiently drained and the plants in a thriving +condition, a rather strong beverage will suit them. For all ordinary +purposes, however, plants may be allowed to flower in eight-or ten-inch +pots, and for these one shift after the winter is sufficient. + +New Types of Calceolaria.—There are now available a number of hybrid +half-hardy perennial varieties, of which _C. profusa_ (_Clibrani_) is +the most popular, that bear the same relation to the Large-flowered +Calceolaria as the Star Cineraria does to the Florist’s Cineraria. In +point of size the blooms produced by these new types are smaller than +those of the Large-flowered section, but the tall graceful sprays are +extremely beautiful and of the greatest decorative value. Except that +seed should be sown earlier (February and March are the proper months), +the plants should receive precisely the same treatment as that already +described for Herbaceous Calceolaria. + +CALCEOLARIA, SHRUBBY + +Calceolaria rugosa. Half-hardy perennial + +Notwithstanding the ease with which cuttings of the Shrubby Calceolaria +can be carried through a severe winter, there is a growing disposition +to obtain the required number of plants from seed sown in February; and +seedlings have the advantage of great variety of colour. A frame or +greenhouse, and the most ordinary treatment, will suffice to insure a +large stock of attractive healthy plants for the embellishment of beds +and borders. + +CAMPANULA and CANTERBURY BELL + +Hardy annual, hardy biennial, and hardy perennial + +Among the numerous and diverse forms in the order Campanulaceæ are many +flowers of great value in the garden, including Single, Double, and Cup +and Saucer strains of the popular Canterbury Bell (_C. medium_). The +impression that some Campanulas are shy growers and require +exceptionally careful treatment may arise from the frail habit of +certain varieties, or from the fact that some of them occasionally fail +to bloom within twelve months from date of sowing. The idea is not +worth a moment’s consideration. In moderately rich, well-drained soil +the finest Campanulas not only prove to be thoroughly hardy, but they +are most graceful in herbaceous borders or beds, and they may also be +used alone in bold clumps with splendid effect. For instance, the +handsome Chimney Campanulas (_C. pyramidalis_ and _C. pyramidalis +alba_) frequently attain a height of six feet or more, and sturdy +spikes occasionally measure eight and even ten feet from base to tip. +Such specimens are magnificent ornaments in conservatories and +corridors, and cannot fail to arrest attention at the back of +herbaceous borders, or when used as isolated plants on lawns. When +grown in pots use a light rich compost, taking care to insure perfect +drainage. The plants must never be allowed to become dry, as this not +only checks growth but renders them liable to attack by red spider or +green fly. Another distinctive subject for the decoration of the +conservatory is _C. grandis_, which may be described as a dwarf Chimney +Campanula. The freely branching plants, covered with attractive +flowers, also form a striking group when grown in the open border. + +Altogether different in character is _C. persicifolia grandiflora_, or +the Peach-leaved Bell-flower as it is sometimes called. This plant is +lighter and more graceful than the Canterbury Bell. It throws up +handsome stems, two feet high, clothed from the ground with lance-like +leaves and elegant bells which quiver in the slightest breeze. An +interesting plant is the Giant Harebell, a dainty flower on a slender +stem, resembling the wild variety in form, but larger, richer in +colour, and a more profuse bloomer. _C. glomerata_ is one of the +hardiest plants that can be grown in any garden, and the large close +heads of deep blue bells have long been familiar in herbaceous borders. +For its very fine glistening, deep blue, erect flowers, _C. +grandiflora_ is also a great favourite. + +Campanulas were formerly propagated by division, but this treatment has +created the impression that they are unworthy to be ranked among the +perennials. From seed, the plants are extremely robust. _C. +persicifolia grandiflora_ resents division, which frequently results in +weakened growth and a tendency, especially in poor or badly drained +soil, to dwindle away. The only satisfactory method of growing +Campanulas is to raise plants annually from good strains of seed. If +sown in gentle heat early in the year—February is the usual month—many +of the varieties flower the same season. When they are well started, +plenty of light and air must be admitted. Unless intended for potting +they should be planted out in good soil where they will require no more +care than is bestowed on the borders generally. Seed can also be sown +in the open ground from May to July; transplant in autumn for flowering +in the following season. During hot weather, particularly on light +soil, the plants need to be well watered, but in retentive ground +thorough drainage must be insured. Should signs of debility appear, +transplant to rich soil, where they will soon regain vigour. + +A popular half-hardy Campanula is _C. fragilis_, of trailing habit. The +starry pale blue flowers are seen to most advantage in hanging-baskets. +The charm of these flowers is wholly lost if they are placed on a stage +in the greenhouse; and they are not entirely satisfactory in a window +where the light is transmitted through the petals, as this robs them of +colour and substance. But hanging in a conservatory with plenty of air +and space their slender drooping stems are very graceful, and the light +reflected from the flowers does full justice to their beauty. Sow in +pans during February or March and pot on as required. + +All the foregoing are perennials, but two little hardy annual +Campanulas are _Attica_ and _A. alba_, growing about six inches high. +They make useful foreground plants, and are quite at home in rock +gardens. Sow in April on light soil. + +The Canterbury Bell has already been alluded to; it is a charming hardy +biennial forming a valuable feature of the mixed border. The large +semi-double blooms of the Cup and Saucer class and the double varieties +are modern introductions which have become extremely popular; the range +of colours now includes the most delicate shades of pink, mauve, and +blue, in addition to pure white. Seed may be sown from April to July. +When the seedlings are large enough transplant them where required for +flowering in the summer of the succeeding year. But Canterbury Bells +are also interesting in the greenhouse during spring; for this work pot +them in October and on to December. So treated, they bloom even more +generously than in the garden. There can be no more beautiful adornment +for a hall or large drawing-room than a well-placed group of the fine +white flowers, backed by a mass of dark-foliaged plants. + +CANNA + +Indian Shot. Half-hardy perennial + +Cannas have ceased to be regarded simply as sub-tropical foliage +plants, adapted only for the adornment of beds and borders. They have +not lost their merits for this purpose, although in all probability the +taller forms will be less grown than formerly, because the new dwarf +varieties, which maintain a high standard of beauty in the foliage, +include a diversity of rich tints previously unknown, and they possess +the additional merit of producing flowers that have lifted the race +into prominence as brilliant decorative subjects for the garden and the +greenhouse. + +The popular name is descriptive of the seed, which is almost spherical, +black, and so hard that it has been used in the West Indies instead of +shot. Hence it will occasion no surprise that the germs burst through +the strong covering with difficulty, and that sometimes weeks elapse +before the seedlings appear, one or two at a time. To facilitate +germination some growers file the seed, others soak it until the skin +becomes sufficiently soft to permit of the paring away of a small +portion with a sharp knife. In either case caution must be exercised to +avoid injuring the germ. A safer mode of attaining the object is to +soak the seeds in water, placed in a greenhouse or stove, for about +twenty-four hours before sowing. After soaking the seeds it is +necessary to keep the soil constantly moist, or the germs will +certainly suffer injury. The number of seeds sown should be recorded, +so that it may be known when all are up. The first sowing should be +made in January, in a temperature of about 75°, and as fast as the +seedlings become ready transfer singly to small pots. As Cannas are +gross feeders they must have a rich, porous compost, and an occasional +dose of liquid manure will prove beneficial, especially when the pots +are full of roots. If the seedlings from the January sowing are +regularly potted on and properly managed they will begin to flower in +June or July. Either the plants may be turned out into a rich soil, or +the pots can be plunged, and after flowering in the open until late in +autumn the plants can be lifted for another display of bloom in the +greenhouse. In warm districts and in dry, sheltered situations, the +roots may be left in the open ground all the winter under a covering of +ashes; but they must be lifted from a damp, cold soil, and stored in a +frame during the winter months. We have only mentioned January as the +month for sowing, but seed may be put in up to midsummer, or even +later, following the routine already indicated. + +CARNATION + +Dianthus Caryophyllus fl. pl. Hardy perennial + +The Carnation belongs to the aristocracy of flowers and has attained +the dignity of an exclusive exhibition. But in addition to their merits +as show flowers, Carnations make conspicuous ornaments in the garden +and the home, and it has been found that seed saved with skill from the +finest varieties will produce plants yielding hundreds of flowers of +which the grower need not feel ashamed. Since the introduction of the +early-flowering class, which can easily be had in bloom within six +months from date of sowing, an immense impetus has been given to the +culture of Carnations from seed, and with judicious management it is +not a difficult matter to insure a succession of these delightful +subjects almost the year through. For the decoration of greenhouses and +for providing cut flowers, seedling Carnations have a special value, +which has only to be known to be universally appreciated. No trouble +should be experienced with high-class seeds, which germinate freely and +save much time and labour in comparison with the more tedious process +of propagation; while an occasional new break may at times reward the +raiser. + +The proverb that what is worth doing is worth doing well is peculiarly +exemplified in the cultivation of Carnations, the difference between +the results of good and bad work being immense. We therefore advise the +preparation of a compost consisting of about three parts of turfy loam, +to one part each of cow-manure and sweet leaf-mould, with a small +addition of fine grit. A compost that has been laid up for a year, +according to the orthodox practice of florists, is very much to be +desired; but it may be prepared off-hand if care be taken to have all +the materials in a sweet, friable state, free from pastiness, and as +far as possible free from vermin. By laying it in a heap, and turning +two or three times, the vermin will be pretty well got rid of. Sow from +April until August in 4-1/2 inch pots, which must be thoroughly +drained. The seed must be very thinly covered, and sheets of glass +should be laid over to check evaporation. Place the pots in a closed +frame, or if the season be genial a sheltered border will suffice. +Immediately the plants are large enough to handle, prick them off into +seed-pans, or round the edge of 48-size pots. Place these in a cold pit +or in the greenhouse. Give shade and water until the plants have formed +six or eight leaves, and then choose a moist day for planting out. + +To insure flowering plants in the following summer it is necessary to +have them strong and robust before the winter sets in. As the blooming +stems rise they must be carefully tied to tall sticks, stout enough to +carry a cover for the bloom, if the plants are not flowered under +glass. When the buds show they should be thinned, leaving as a rule the +top, third, and fourth buds. The second is often too near the first, +and some will not carry the fourth with vigour. When the petals nearly +fill the calyx, each one must be carefully tied with a thin strip of +material a little more than halfway down, to prevent the calyx from +bursting, which disqualifies the flower for exhibition. + +The early-flowering class is extremely valuable for the ease with which +it can be grown. The seedlings offer the advantage of being far more +floriferous than plants that have been propagated by the orthodox +method, and they are quite immune from the disease which often +decimates stocks raised from layers and cuttings. Two strains—Vanguard +and Improved Marguerite—possess these characteristics in a very high +degree. All the usual colours are included, and they not only make a +very imposing display in the borders but are of great value for table +decoration. Within about six months from the time seed is sown an +admirable form of delightfully scented Carnation is at the command of +every gardener, and a succession of these popular flowers is available +long after the perennial varieties have ceased to bloom. Plants from +seed sown in gentle heat in January or February will flower freely in +the autumn of the same year, and if lifted and potted they will +continue in bloom during the winter as ornaments of the greenhouse or +conservatory. From another sowing in autumn there will be a display in +the following spring. + +CELOSIA PLUMOSA + +Plumed Cockscomb. Greenhouse annual + +The conditions which suit a liberally grown Cockscomb will produce long +graceful plumes of _Celosia plumosa_, but the starving system will not +answer with this plant. Sow in February or March, and by means of a +steady heat, regular attention with water, and a rather moist +atmosphere, the specimens should be grown without a check from +beginning to end. When they reach the final pots an occasional dose of +weak manure water will help them, both in size and colour, but it must +be discontinued when the flowers begin to show their beauty. As a rule +it will be found more easy to manage this plant on a moderate-sized +hot-bed than in a greenhouse. Repotting should always be done in time +to prevent the roots from growing through the bottom of the pots. + +CELOSIA CRISTATA—see COCKSCOMB, _page_ 254 + +CHRYSANTHEMUM + +Hardy perennial and hardy annual + +The tedious method of propagating Begonias, Gloxinias, and Primulas by +cuttings or layers has been replaced by the simpler and more +satisfactory procedure of sowing seeds, which insures all the finest +flowers in far greater variety than were obtained under the obsolete +treatment. A similar revolution is now proceeding in the culture of +Chrysanthemums. Many growers are relying entirely on seedlings raised +from sowings early in the year for their autumn display. The culture of +_C. indicum_ from seed is as simple as that of Primulas or Stocks, and +the variety and delicate charm of the seedlings far surpass the formal +plants of years ago. Gardeners who require large numbers for decorative +purposes may use seedling Chrysanthemums with excellent effect. + +Seed should be sown in January or February, using a compost consisting +of two parts leaf-soil to one part of loam. Place the pots or pans in a +temperature of 65° to 70°. As soon as the seedlings appear they should +be moved to a somewhat lower temperature—about 55° to 60°. When the +young plants are large enough to handle, prick off into trays at about +three inches apart, using a little more loam in the soil. The most +convenient size for the purpose is fifteen inches long by nine inches +wide and three inches deep. These trays produce a quicker root action +than pots. After growth has started, place them in cold frames. +Immediately the plants have made five or six leaves transfer singly to +three-inch pots, and when nicely rooted they may be stopped once. About +June shift into six-inch pots, adding a small quantity of coarse silver +sand to the potting soil. Ten days later place them out of doors on a +bed of ashes. Towards the end of July transfer to 9-1/2 inch pots for +flowering, using soil of the composition already advised. Keep them +standing on ashes or boards, if possible at the north side of a hedge +or house. When thoroughly rooted a little manure water may be given +once a week. In October stand the plants in a cool house, and in the +first week of November move them to flowering quarters, keeping the +temperature from 55° to 60°. + +If required for blooming in the open, prick the seedlings off as soon +as they will bear handling, and in May have them planted out in final +positions, giving a little protection at first. They will yield a +profusion of bloom which will prove invaluable for decorative purposes +throughout the autumn months. + +The Perennial Chrysanthemums include the well-known Marguerite, or +Ox-eye Daisy (_C. leucanthemum_), of which several new varieties have +been introduced in recent years. Not only have these flowers been +greatly improved in size and form, but there are now early-and +late-flowering varieties which will give a succession of bloom from May +until early autumn. The seed may be sown at any time from April to July +on a carefully prepared bed of light fertile soil, and when the +seedlings are large enough they should be transferred to permanent +quarters for flowering in the following year. In the perennial border +the plants make handsome specimens, and the long-stemmed flowers are +also invaluable for vase decoration when cut. + +Several of the Annual Chrysanthemums make superb displays in borders, +especially when planted in large clumps, and they deserve to be grown +extensively in odd corners to furnish a supply of charming flowers for +bouquets and arrangement in vases. There is a considerable choice of +colours, which come quite true, and the plants may be treated in all +respects as hardy annuals. When grown in pots, the Star and Dunnettii +varieties make most attractive subjects for the decoration of the +greenhouse in winter and early spring. For this purpose seed should be +sown in August and September. + +CINERARIA + +Greenhouse annual + +The comparative ease with which the Cineraria can be well grown, +together with the exceeding beauty and variety of its flowers, will +always insure for it a high position in public favour. It is now so +generally raised from seed that no other mode of culture need be +alluded to. The plant is rapid in growth, very succulent, thirsty, +requires generous feeding, and will not endure extremes of heat or +cold. A compost of mellow turfy loam, either yellow or brown, with a +fair addition of leaf-mould, will grow it to perfection. If leaf-mould +cannot be obtained, turfy peat will make a fairly good substitute. Soil +from an old Melon bed will also answer, with the addition of sharp grit +such as the sifted sweepings from gravel walks; the disadvantage of a +very rich soil is that it tends to the production of too much foliage. + +The usual period for sowing is during the months of May and June, and, +as a rule, the plants raised in May will be found the most valuable. A +June sowing must not be expected to produce flowers until the following +March or April. It is quite possible to have Cinerarias in bloom in +November and December, and those who care for a display at that early +period should sow in April. + +Cinerarias grow so freely that it is not necessary to prick the +seedlings off round the edges of pots or pans; but immediately the +plants begin to make their second leaves, transfer direct to thumb +pots, using rather coarse soil, and in doing this take care not to +cover the hearts of the plants. Place the pots in a close frame; attend +to shading, and sprinkle with soft water both morning and evening until +well established. In the second week after potting, gradually diminish +the heat and give more air. Too high a temperature, and even too much +shade, will produce thin and weak leaf-stalks. If the plants are so +crowded that they touch one another it will almost certainly be +injurious, and render them an easy prey to some of their numerous +enemies. It is far better to grow a few really fine specimens that will +produce a handsome display of superb flowers, than to attempt a large +number of feeble plants that will prove a constant source of trouble, +and in the end yield but a poor return in bloom. Endeavour to grow them +as nearly hardy as the season will allow, even admitting the night air +freely on suitable occasions. Immediately the thumb pots are filled +with roots, shift to a larger size, and it is important that this +operation should not be delayed a day too long. To the practised eye +the alteration of the colour of the leaves to a pale green is a +sufficient intimation that starvation has commenced, and that prompt +action is necessary to save the plants. It is the custom of some +growers to transfer at once to the size in which they are intended to +bloom. There is, however, some danger to the inexperienced in +over-potting, and therefore one intermediate shift is advisable. As a +rule 32-size pots are large enough, but the 24-or even the 16-size is +allowable when very fine specimens are required. The seedlings should +be in their final pots not later than the end of November. + +It will help to harden and establish the plants if they are placed in +the open air during August and September. A north border under the +shelter of a wall or building is the most suitable spot, but avoid a +hedge of any kind. Clear away suckers, and if many buds are presented, +every third one may be removed when very fine blooms are wanted. From +the first appearance of the buds, manure water can be given with +advantage once or twice a week until the flowers show colour, and then +it should be discontinued. + +Although Cinerarias are thrifty plants, they are fastidious about +trifles. If possible give them new pots, or see that old ones are made +scrupulously clean. Even hard water will retard free growth, oftentimes +to the perplexity of the cultivator. + +A host of enemies attack Cinerarias; indeed, there is scarcely a pest +known to the greenhouse but finds a congenial home upon this plant. +Mildew is more common in some seasons than in others. As a rule, it +appears during July and August, especially after insufficient +ventilation, or when the plants have been left too long in one place or +too near to each other. Obviously weakness invites attack, and the +necessity of robust and vigorous growth is thus effectually taught. On +the first appearance of a curled leaf, dust the foliage and soil with +sulphur, and give no water overhead until a cure has been effected. The +aphis is easily killed by fumigation carried out on a quiet evening. +Some gardeners prefer to give an hour or two once a week to the removal +of the pest by means of a soft brush. From three to four dozen plants +are easily cleansed by hand in the time named. + +Star Cinerarias (_C. stellata_) are grown under precisely the same +conditions as the Florists’ or Show Cinerarias, and this type of flower +is highly valued for its singular gracefulness and beautiful decorative +effect. In the conservatory and on the table it is an indispensable +plant. The sprays admit of most charming arrangements in vases with any +kind of ornamental foliage, and maintain their beauty for a long time +in water. + +Intermediate Cinerarias.—These new types of Cineraria, which in habit +are intermediate between the Large-flowered and Stellata classes, make +admirable subjects for table decoration, as well as for the adornment +of the conservatory or greenhouse. In this class the Feltham Beauty +strain undoubtedly has a great future before it. Originated at the +Feltham Nurseries, this strain has attracted considerable attention at +the numerous horticultural meetings where it has been exhibited, and +since it passed into our hands a few years ago some very beautiful +colours not to be found among the ordinary Stellata varieties have been +added to it. The distinctive feature of the flowers is the white +centre, which greatly enhances the vividness of the colouring of the +petals. For the Intermediate section the same methods of culture as +advised for the other classes of Cineraria will apply. + +CLARKIA + +C. elegans. C. pulchella. Hardy annuals + +The two distinct classes of Clarkia named above include several +varieties that have long been freely grown in gardens as summer +annuals. But the very beautiful recent introductions in the Elegans +class have lifted these flowers to a higher plane of usefulness for +producing brilliant sheets of colour in beds, borders, shrubberies, and +beside carriage drives. Although all the Clarkias bloom profusely in +ordinary garden soil they well repay liberal treatment. Seed may be +sown from March to May, or in September if an early display is wanted. +In good ground each plant of the Pulchella varieties should be allowed +a space of eight or ten inches, but rather more room must be given to +the Elegans class to do the plants justice. + +The Elegans varieties are of special value when treated as pot plants +for conservatory decoration in May and June. From seed sown in August +or early in September the plants can be slowly grown into magnificent +specimens four feet high and almost as much in diameter. Our own +practice is to sow thinly in clean well-drained 48-size pots. These are +placed in a temperature of from 50° to 55°, and when the seedlings are +large enough to handle they are pricked off into shallow boxes about +three inches apart, the base of the boxes being freely perforated to +insure ample drainage. The most suitable soil is composed of equal +parts of sound loam and leaf-mould, with the addition of a gallon of +coarse sand to each bushel of the mixed soil. After the plants are well +established, ventilate freely to secure robust growth. When three +inches high pinch out the points, and a little later transfer +separately to small pots, keeping them close for a few days and as near +the glass as possible. As the roots develop, transfer again to larger +pots, and then the second and final stopping of the shoots must be +done. Should very large plants be wanted they can be flowered in +16-size pots, using a compost slightly heavier than that advised at a +younger stage of growth. The night temperature during winter should be +about 45º, giving air freely by day whenever possible to do so with +safety. As the branches need support, sticks of a suitable length must +be provided, and the stems tied out in good time to prevent them from +breaking off. + +CLERODENDRON FALLAX + +Stove shrub + +A very handsome erect shrub, which is extensively grown in tropical +gardens. In this country it attains a height of about two feet, and is +easily raised from seed in a warm greenhouse or conservatory, where it +proves to be a really beautiful and striking plant. + +Sow in pots or pans in March or April and transfer to single pots while +small. From the commencement a very rich soil is necessary to insure +robust growth and intense colour in the panicles of brilliant scarlet +flowers. The plants bloom in August or September of the same year. When +the leaves fall, if the intention be to store through winter, remove to +a temperature of 55°; but raising plants annually is more satisfactory +and entails less trouble than storing. + +Like many other tropical plants, Clerodendron fallax is subject to +attack by mealy bug, and this pest may be dealt with by hand picking or +by washing the leaves with insecticide two evenings in succession. +Aphis are also troublesome and should be cleared by fumigation. + +COCKSCOMB + +Celosia cristata. Tender annual + +This fine old-fashioned flower has won renewed popularity of late +years, probably as the result of a number of well-grown plants +exhibited at horticultural shows. Those who can produce handsome +Cinerarias, Balsams, and Calceolarias, will be likely to turn out grand +Cockscombs, strongly coloured and on dwarf, leafy plants. Liberal +culture is essential, and the first start should be made in a compost +consisting mainly of rich light friable loam. Sow the seeds on a rather +brisk heat in February or March, a newly-made but sweet hot-bed being +the best place for the seed-pans. Prick out early into very small pots, +and shift on so as to encourage growth without a check, and keep the +plants on the hot-bed until the combs are formed. It is well not to +shift beyond the 8-1/2-inch size; then, by allowing the roots to become +pot-bound, the combs are soon produced. It matters not how select the +seed, or how careful the culture, a certain proportion of unsymmetrical +combs will appear; but these, if richly coloured, will be useful for +decorative purposes, and should have all the attention needed to keep +their leaves fresh and the combs pure in colour. + +COLEUS + +Stove perennial + +There is so much difficulty in carrying Coleus through the winter in +vigorous health that the modern plan of treating it as an annual is +advantageous for the saving of trouble and fire-heat in winter, and +also because it offers the charm of constant diversity. The fact is +that our winter days are too short and gloomy to maintain the splendour +of colouring which makes Coleus so attractive and valuable; and seed +from a good strain may be relied on to produce plants which will +delight the eye all through the summer and autumn. Some experienced men +sow in February and succeed, but the majority of cultivators will show +prudence by waiting until March, when increased daylight favours the +rapid growth of the plants. Flowerpots are better than pans, as the +greater depth affords opportunity of securing effectual drainage. The +pots should be nearly half-filled with crocks, covered with a layer of +moss to prevent the soil from being washed away. Fill them with light +turfy loam, mingled with almost an equal bulk of sharp sand. Make an +even surface, on which sow thinly, and shake over the seed a slight +covering of fine soil. Place the pots in a temperature of not less than +65°. Watering needs particular care, because of the peculiar liability +of the young plants to damp off, especially in dull weather. The +strongest seedlings are pretty certain to be those in which green and +black predominate, and they may without scruple be removed to make way +for the slower-growing but better-coloured specimens. These should be +transplanted round the edges of pots while quite small; and such as +show delicate tints, especially those having pink markings on a golden +ground, are worth nursing through the early stage with extra care. The +pots must be shaded from direct sunshine, but should be kept near the +glass. In May the plants will be large enough for 48-sized pots, beyond +which there is no occasion to go. When the pots become full of roots +the foliage increases in brilliancy, whereas larger pots encourage free +growth to the detriment of colour. A dry atmosphere is particularly +injurious, while an occasional dose of manure water will maintain the +plants in health. + +COLUMBINE—_see_ AQUILEGIA + +COSMEA + +Cosmos. Half-hardy annual + +Cosmeas make a striking show in the mixed border, and the flowers are +also in large request for indoor decoration. Disappointment is often +caused, however, through the plants failing to bloom until late in the +season, and therefore it is important to grow an early-flowering strain +in order to insure a long-continued display. The most successful method +of raising plants is to sow the seed in pots during February, pricking +off the plants as soon as large enough. When the first flowers appear +in May, transplant to positions in the open immediately danger from +frost is past. + +CYCLAMEN + +Half-hardy perennial + +Gardeners of experience will remember the time when the predominant +colours of Cyclamen were purple and magenta, and it was impossible for +the most friendly critic to feel enthusiastic concerning these flowers. +But the new colours—Salmon Pink, Salmon Scarlet, the intense Vulcan, +Rose Queen and Cherry Red, together with Giant White and White +Butterfly—are now regarded as the brightest and most beautiful +decorative subjects for the long period of dark winter days of which +Christmas is the centre. As cut flowers for the dinner-table Cyclamens +have no rival at that period of the year, and as specimen plants in the +home they are delightful for their free-flowering habit, compact form, +and elegant foliage. + +Seed may be sown at any time during autumn or the early part of the +year, and the plants will not only flower within twelve months, but if +properly grown will produce more bloom than can be obtained from old +bulbs. We do not advise more than three sowings, the first and most +important of which should be made in August or the beginning of +September. To obtain a succession of plants, sow again in October and +for the last time early in the new year. Those who have not hitherto +grown Cyclamen for midwinter blooming will be well pleased with the +result. It is quite as easy to flower them in the winter as in the +longer days, and this is more than can be said about most plants. + +The best soil for Cyclamen is a rich, sound loam, with a liberal +admixture of leaf-mould, and sufficient silver sand to insure free +drainage. Press this mixture firmly into pots or seed-pans, and dibble +the seed about an inch apart and not more than a quarter of an inch +deep. Cover the surface with a thin layer of leaves or fibrous material +to check rapid evaporation, and later on keep the soil free from moss. +The autumn sowings may at first be placed in a frame having a +temperature of not less than 45°. At the end of a fortnight transfer +the pans to any warm and moist position in the greenhouse or +propagating house. + +Although the Cyclamen is a tender plant, it does not need a strong +heat, and will not endure extremes of any kind. Sudden changes are +always fatal to its growth. In winter the temperature should not be +allowed to fall below 56°, or to rise above 70° at any time. The more +evenly the heat can be maintained the better, and it is desirable to +give all the light possible. In summer, however, although a warm and +humid atmosphere is still necessary, the light may with advantage be +somewhat subdued, but shading must not be overdone, or the constitution +of the plant will suffer. + +Cyclamen seed not only germinates slowly, but it also grows in the most +capricious manner; sometimes a few plants come up long after others +have made a good start. Do not be impatient of their appearance, but +when some seedlings are large enough for removal transfer to thumb +pots, taking care not to insert them too deeply. As the plants develop, +shift into larger pots, ending finally in the 48-size. In the later +stages mix less sand with the soil, and when potting always leave the +crown of the corm clear. Keep the plants near the glass, and as the sun +becomes powerful it will be necessary to provide shade and prevent +excess of heat. Never allow the seedlings to suffer from want of water, +or to become a prey to aphis. To avoid the latter, occasional, or it +may be frequent, fumigations must be resorted to. About the end of May +should find the most forward plants ready for shifting into 60-pots. +Give all the air possible to promote a sturdy growth. In doing this, +however, avoid draughts of cold air. From the end of June to the middle +of July the finest plants should be ready for their final shift into +48-pots, in which they will flower admirably. The growth during August +and September will be very free, and then occasional assistance with +weak manure water will add to the size and colour of the flowers. As +the evenings shorten, save the plants from chills, which result in +deformed blossoms. + +The whole secret of successful Cyclamen culture may be summed up in a +few words: constant and unvarying heat, a moist atmosphere, and +abundant supplies of water without stagnation; free circulation of air, +avoiding cold draughts; light in winter, and shade in summer, with +freedom from insect pests. These conditions will keep the plants in +vigorous growth from first to last, and the result will be so bountiful +a bloom as to prove the soundness of the rapid system of cultivation. +This routine may be varied by the experienced cultivator, but the +principles will remain the same in all cases, because the natural +constitution of the plant gives the key to its management. + +DAHLIA + +Half-hardy perennial + +Both the double and the single classes of Dahlia are increasingly grown +as annuals from seed, and this practice has the great advantage of +being economical in time and in the saving of space during winter. The +seedlings grow freely and quickly, and will flower quite as early as +those grown by the more lengthy and troublesome method from tubers. +Even those who possess a stock of named sorts may with advantage raise +a supply from seed, especially as there is a probability of securing +some charming novelty, which is in itself no small incentive. + +Although the Dahlia is a tender plant, it is easily managed in a +greenhouse, or in a frame resting on a hot-bed. The seed may be sown as +early as January, but unless sufficient space is at command to keep the +plants stocky as they develop, it will be wise to wait until February. +A sowing in the month last named will produce plants forward enough to +bloom at the usual time. Even March will not be too late; but whatever +time may be chosen, when the start has been made it must be followed up +with diligence, so as to avoid giving any check from first to last. Sow +thinly in pots or pans filled with ordinary light rich compost, and +cover the seed with a mere sprinkling of fine earth. When the first +pair of leaves attain the height of an inch, pot off each plant singly +close up to the base of the leaves. It is not advisable to throw the +weakly seedlings away; these are the very plants which are most likely +to display new shades of colour and they are worth some additional +trouble. Although weak at the outset, they may, by judicious treatment, +be developed into a thriving and healthy condition. + +When potted, place the plants in heat, giving a little extra care until +growth is fairly started. In due time shift into larger sizes as may be +necessary, and then it will be wise to consider whether there is space +to grow the whole stock well. If not, do not hesitate to sacrifice the +surplus, and in doing so reject the rankest-growing specimens, for +these are least likely to produce a fine display of bloom. It is +mistaken practice to take out the top shoot, as this checks the plant +for no good end; but when about six inches high, each one will need the +support of a stick. Give water freely, and air on all suitable +occasions. The least tendency to curled leaves indicates something +amiss, and demands immediate attention. A cold blast may have stricken +the plants, or the soil may be poor; lack of sufficient water will +produce the mischief, or it may arise from the presence of aphis. If +the last-named assumption prove correct, fumigate on the first quiet +evening, and omit watering on that day. The mere mention of the other +points will be sufficient to show the remedy for them. + +As the time for transfer to the open air approaches, all that is +possible should be done to harden the plants for the change. They may +be placed for a few days under the shelter of a wall or hedge, but on +the least sign of frost be prepared to protect with hurdles or mats. +Full exposure during genial showers and fair weather is advisable, and +an occasional examination of the plants will prevent their rooting +through the pots into the soil. + +The border for Dahlias can scarcely be made too rich, for they are +hungry and thirsty subjects, and will amply repay in a profusion of +bloom the manure that may be lavished upon them. Slugs and snails are +unfortunately too partial to newly planted Dahlias, but the vermin soon +cease to care about them; therefore it is advisable to plant Lettuces +plentifully at the same time, or previously, on the same ground, and to +dust around the Dahlias with lime. Insert at least one stake, about a +yard long, near each plant, to give support, and two or three others +will have to be given before the branches spread far. Secure the first +shoot when planting is completed, and follow up the tying as growth +demands. + +Dahlias bloom continuously for a long time, and appear to be especially +at home in the shrubbery border, or in the centre of a bed. They are +also valuable for training against buildings having a southern aspect, +and here the flowering period is much prolonged, for an early frost +will scarcely reach them. A light wall is an admirable background for +deep-coloured varieties, and the white or yellow flowers are displayed +to advantage against a dark building. Dahlias may be used either alone +or in company with the climbing plants which are usual in such +positions. + +The flowers possess a special value for indoor decoration, and any odd +corner of the garden can be utilised for producing a supply for this +purpose. Cutting should invariably be done in the early morning, while +yet the dew is upon them. They will then retain their beauty for a +longer period than those taken at a later hour from the same plants. +This remark is true of all flowers, but it applies with especial force +to the Dahlia. + +DAISY, DOUBLE + +Bellis perennis fl. pl. Hardy perennial + +The remarkable development of the Double Daisy in recent years has +raised this simple garden subject to the foremost rank of spring +bedding plants. So pronounced has been the improvement achieved in the +size and form of the flowers, that plants raised from a reliable strain +of seed will now produce blooms which may well be mistaken for +specimens of finely shaped Asters. When massed in a large bed the +flowers present one of the most striking sights to be seen anywhere in +the spring garden. But apart from their use in formal beds and borders, +Double Daisies make a pleasing break among Wallflowers, and are +particularly attractive when grown as an edging to bulbous flowers and +other spring-blooming subjects such as Polyanthus, Myosotis, &c. Plants +from a sowing made in pans in April and put out when large enough, may +be flowered in the autumn of the same year. But the method more +generally practised is to sow on prepared beds in the open during June +or July, and to transfer the seedlings when sufficiently developed to +positions for blooming in the following season. + +DELPHINIUM + +Hardy perennial + +Nearly all the perennial varieties may be raised from seed, and where +large numbers are required this is the best method of obtaining them. +They make handsome border flowers, and are extremely valuable during +the early months of summer. Sow in May, June or July, in the open +ground, and transplant in autumn. If mixed seed has been sown, it will +not be wise to thin out all the weakly plants, or it may happen that +some of the choicest shades may be lost. The first flowers will be over +by midsummer, but if the stalks are promptly cut down instead of being +allowed to seed, there will be a second display later in the year. + +Three varieties, Queen of Blues, Dwarf Porcelain Blue, and Blue +Butterfly, may be flowered as annuals, by sowing in pans in March and +transplanting to the open as soon as the seedlings are ready. They also +make particularly charming pot plants, for which purpose it is +advisable to sow seeds in March. + +The scarlet variety (_D. nudicaule_) is rather more delicate than the +others, and it is wise to raise the plants in well-drained seed-pans, +and to take care of them through the first winter in a cold frame; +indeed, in a heavy soil there is a risk of losing them in any winter +which is both cold and wet. It is not necessary to employ pots, but +immediately after flowering take them up and store in peat until the +following April, when they can be returned to the open ground. + +_D. sulphureum._ The seed takes a very long time to germinate, and +severely taxes the patience of the sower. But otherwise there is no +difficulty in raising plants, and the long spikes of beautiful clear +sulphur-yellow flowers are well worth the extra time the seedlings +need. The best plan is to sow in autumn in the open ground, cover with +a frame, and avoid disturbing the soil, except for weeding, until the +next autumn, when the plants should be put into position for flowering +in the following summer. + +As slugs are exceedingly partial to Delphiniums, the crowns should be +examined in spring, and the seed-beds may be dressed with soot and +surrounded with ashes to save the seedlings from injury. + +The annual Delphiniums are dealt with under Larkspur, page 274. + +DIANTHUS + +Pink. Biennials, hardy and half-hardy + +Many varieties of Dianthus claim attention for their elegant forms and +splendour of colouring. They have been so wonderfully improved by +scientific growers that they almost supersede the old garden Pinks, and +have the great advantage of coming true from seed. _D. Heddewigii_ +(Japan Pink) and its varieties, _D. chinensis_ (Indian Pink) and _D. +imperialis_, make interesting and sumptuous beds, and may all be +flowered the first year from sowings made in heat in January or +February. Immediately the seedlings are through the soil it is +important to shift them to a rather lower temperature than is necessary +for insuring germination, or the plants become soft and worthless. Be +very sparing with water, especially if the soil is at all retentive. +When two leaves are formed, transfer to pans, allowing about an inch +between each plant, and place in a sheltered position. Gradually +introduce to cool treatment, and when ready prick off again, allowing +each plant more space. They will thus have a much better start, when +planted out in May, than if taken from the seed-pans direct. Dianthus +make a most attractive display in pots, and a number of seedlings +should be potted on for flowering in this manner. + +Where there are no facilities for raising Dianthus in heat, it is quite +easy to grow plants in an open spot from a sowing in June or July, and +they will flower freely in the following year. Prepare drills about six +inches apart and line them with sifted soil; sow thinly, and carefully +cover the seed with fine soil. Shade must be given during germination, +but it should be gradually withdrawn when the seedlings are up. +Transfer to final positions in August. Should this be impossible, prick +the plants out, and shift them again a little later. It will only do +harm to leave them crowded in the seed-bed, and the second move will +better enable them to withstand winter frosts. The Dianthus thrives in +a sandy or loamy soil, with full exposure to sunshine, and the plants +scarcely need water or any attention the whole season through. + +DIGITALIS + +Foxglove. Hardy biennial + +Besides the native Purple Foxglove, largely grown in gardens, there are +several very handsome varieties that are valuable for adorning borders, +shrubberies and woodland walks. Specially worthy of attention are Giant +Primrose, a beautiful variety with rich cream or buff flowers; the +Giant Spotted, which produces handsome flowers, rich and varied in +colour; and the white variety with its abundance of charming +ivory-white bells, which are occasionally slightly spotted. + +Any deep rich soil suits Digitalis, and seed sown in May, June, or July +will produce seedlings which, with very little attention, will yield a +fine display of flowers in the following summer. Sow in the open in +pans, or on a prepared border, and put the young plants into permanent +positions, choosing showery weather in August or September. + +DIMORPHOTHECA + +Half-hardy annual + +The Dimorphotheca, also called the Star of the Veldt, was introduced +into this country from South Africa and, like the Nemesia, also a +native of that Dominion, it has become one of the most valuable of our +summer annuals. Under favourable conditions plants may be flowered in +six weeks from time of sowing and they will continue to bloom in +profusion until cut down by frost. In addition to the striking orange +flower, _D. aurantiaca_ (Orange Daisy), a wide range of colours, +including many delicate tints, has been evolved by careful +hybridisation. + +Those who wish to obtain forward plants should sow during March or +April in pans of light soil placed in a cold frame, and the seedlings +will be ready for transfer to open quarters in May. Or seed may safely +be sown in the open ground in May and June. As suggested by its native +habitat, the Dimorphotheca loves a warm sunny position and grows to the +greatest perfection in a light soil or a well-drained loam. + +The practice of flowering half-hardy annuals in pots is rapidly +increasing, and among this class of plants the Dimorphotheca has few +rivals as a decorative subject for the conservatory. It is more +effective to grow three or four plants in a pot than one only, and the +best specimens are obtained by sowing direct into the pots and thinning +the seedlings to the required number. Use a light rich compost +containing a fair proportion of silver sand, and do not let the plants +suffer for the lack of water. + +ESCHSCHOLTZIA + +Hardy perennial + +A decade or so ago the predominant colours found in Eschscholtzias were +yellow and orange, but in recent years a number of new and very +attractive shades have been introduced, with the result that this plant +is now regarded as indispensable for summer bedding and for borders. +The modern practice is to grow Eschscholtzias as annuals, sowing in the +open during March and April. As the seedlings do not readily +transplant, the seed should be put in where the flowers are wanted. +Thin out in due course, allowing each plant ample space for +development. Sowings may also be made during September, from which the +plants will bloom in advance of those raised in spring. + +FREESIA + +Half-hardy perennial + +The Freesia is another of the bulbous flowers easily raised from seed, +and it may be had in bloom within six months from date of sowing. Use a +rich compost, and sow under glass in January, February, or March, as +may best suit convenience. Seed should be sown again in August, to +supply flowers in spring or summer of the following year. The +brittleness of the roots makes re-potting a hazardous operation. It is +therefore wise to sow in 48-pots and thin to four or five plants in +each, thus avoiding the need for shifting until after flowering has +taken place. When re-potting becomes imperative, it must be done with a +gentle hand, and the bulbs ought to be carefully matched for each pot. +The position chosen for Freesias should be light and freely ventilated +in mild weather, but they will not endure a cutting draught. For +further cultural notes see page 328. + +FUCHSIA + +Half-hardy perennial + +To raise Fuchsias from seed will be new practice to many; but it is +both interesting and inexpensive, and every year it secures an +increasing number of adherents. Seed may be sown at almost any time of +the year; if a start be made in January or February, the plants will +bloom in July or August. Soil for the seed-pots should be somewhat firm +in texture, but a light rich compost ought to be employed when the +plants come to be potted off, and the final shift should be into a +mixture containing nearly one-third of decayed cow-manure. For the +early sowing we have named, a rather strong heat will be necessary to +bring up the seed. When large enough to handle, prick off the seedlings +round the edges of 60-pots, putting about six plants into each pot. +Shade and moisture are requisite to give them a start after each +transfer. Subsequently they must be potted on as growth demands, until +the final size is reached; and flowering will not commence so long as +increased pot-room is given. The growth must not be hurried, and the +plants should at all times be kept free from vermin. Seedlings having +narrow pointed leaves may be consigned to the waste heap without +scruple; but plants with short rounded foliage, especially if dark in +colour, are almost certain to prove of high quality. + +GAILLARDIA + +Half-hardy perennial + +All the Gaillardias are most conveniently grown as annuals from seed. +The plants remain in bloom for a long period, and for their gorgeous +colouring the flowers are as highly prized for arranging in bowls and +vases as for garden decoration. The best month in which to sow seed is +March, and the plants will then be ready for putting out in May. Any +good compost will answer, and only a moderate temperature is necessary +to bring up the seedlings. The usual course of procedure in pricking +off must be adopted to keep them short and stout. + +GERANIUM + +Pelargonium. Half-hardy perennial + +Geraniums of all kinds are most valuable if treated as annuals. In +their seedling state the plants are peculiarly robust and charmingly +fresh in leafage and flowers, even if amongst them there does not +happen to be one that is welcome as a novel florist’s flower. When +grown from first-class seed, however, a large proportion of fine +varieties and a few real novelties may be expected. The seed may be +sown on any day throughout the year, but February and August are +especially suitable. Sow in pans filled with a good mixture, in a +somewhat rough state. Cover with a fair sixteenth of an inch of fine +soil. Put the seed-pans in a temperature of 60° to 70° if sown in +February, but heat will not be necessary at all unless it is desired to +bring the plants into flower early in the ensuing summer. We are +accustomed to place the seed-pans on a sunny shelf in a cool +greenhouse, and have fine plants by the end of June, many of which +begin to flower in August. + +GERBERA + +Half-hardy perennial + +The Gerbera, also known as the Barberton or Transvaal Daisy, is a +native of South Africa. Under cool greenhouse treatment it may be grown +to perfection in pots, and a charming display of bloom can also be +obtained in the open border from plants put out in a well-drained sunny +position and given slight protection in winter. The flowers somewhat +resemble a Marguerite in form, having a number of long pointed petals +radiating from a small centre. In addition to the brilliant _G. +Jamesonii_, sometimes called the Scarlet Daisy of the Cape, many hybrid +flowers having a wide range of delightful colours are also available. +Although seed is often sown in spring, the best results are probably +obtained from an August sowing, in pans placed in a gentle heat. Prick +off the seedlings when large enough, and if required for the greenhouse +or conservatory transfer to pots, or gradually harden off for planting +in the open as soon as weather permits in the following spring. + +GESNERA + +Nægelia. Tender perennial + +An extremely beautiful ornament for stove or conservatory. The new +hybrids freely produce spikes of bright pendulous flowers of many +charming colours. Although the Gesnera is a perennial, it is sound +practice to treat the plant as an annual. Seedlings from a January +sowing will commence flowering in about nine months. Very rich soil, a +warm and even temperature, and plenty of water, are requisite to +promote luxuriant growth. The culture advised for Gloxinias will +exactly suit the Gesnera also. + +GEUM + +Hardy perennial + +The introduction of the well-known double variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, which +may easily be flowered from seed in the first season, has brought the +Geum into prominence in recent years. Seed of the above-named variety +should be sown in pans in March or April and the seedlings pricked off +into boxes of rich soil when large enough. Put out in May or June and +do not let the plants suffer for want of water. Geums may also be +raised from sowings made in June or July, and transplanting in due +course to permanent quarters, in the manner usual with hardy +perennials. + +GLADIOLUS + +Corn Flag. Half-hardy perennial + +Formerly the Gladiolus was seldom raised from seed, probably because +the seed obtainable was not worth sowing. Now it is saved with so much +care that it will give a splendid display of flowers, a large +proportion of which will be equal to named sorts, and some may show a +decided advance. + +The use of large pots—the 32-size will answer—is advantageous for many +reasons, and they should be either new or scrupulously clean, for they +will have to remain unchanged for many months, so that a fair start is +the more necessary. For the same reason special care should be taken to +insure free drainage. Over the usual crocks place a layer of dry moss, +and fill with a compost of fibrous loam and leaf-mould in equal parts, +with sufficient sharp sand added to make it thoroughly porous. Press +the soil firmly into the pots, making the surface quite even, and in +February dibble the seeds separately about an inch apart, and half an +inch deep. This will render it needless to disturb the seedlings during +the first season. Put the seed-pots in a steady temperature not +exceeding 65° or 70°. After watering, it will help to retain the +moisture if the top of each pot is covered with a layer of _old_ moss, +until the plants show. When the seedlings are about an inch high remove +to a lower temperature, and begin to harden off by giving air on +suitable occasions. Take care, however, that in the process no check is +given to growth. Soon after the middle of May the seedlings should be +able to bear full exposure, and it will then be time to renew the +surface soil. Gently remove the upper layer, and replace it with rotten +cow-manure, or some other rich dressing. Water must be given regularly +until about midsummer, when the pots may be plunged to the rim in a +shady border, and this will keep them tolerably moist until, in +September, the seedlings begin to ripen off, which they must be allowed +to do. When the leaves have died down, shake out the bulbs and place +them on a shelf to dry. A mixture of equal parts of peat and pine +sawdust, placed in a box or seed-pan, will make the best possible store +for them; the box or seed-pan to be kept in any spot which is safe from +heat and frost. After about six weeks, each bulb should be examined, +and decayed specimens removed. If any of them have commenced growing, +pot them and place in a pit or greenhouse. In March take the bulbs out +of store, pot each one singly, and prepare for planting out. The +transfer to the open must not be made until the danger of frost is +past, even though it be necessary to wait until the first week of June. + +Further remarks on Gladiolus will be found at page 329, under ‘The +Culture of Flowering Bulbs.’ + +GLOXINIA + +Tender perennial + +Gloxinias can now be flowered in the most satisfactory manner within +six months from the date of sowing seed. Hence there is no longer the +least temptation to propagate these plants by the lengthy and +troublesome method formerly in vogue, especially as seedlings raised +from a first-class strain produce flowers of the finest quality, both +as to form and style of growth. One great advantage to be obtained from +seedlings is an almost endless variety of colour, for the careful +hybridisation of the choicest flowers not only perpetuates those +colours, but yields other fine shades also. Those who have never seen a +large and well-grown collection of seedling Gloxinias have yet to +witness one of the most striking displays of floral beauty. + +Quite as much has been done for the foliage of the Gloxinia as for its +flower, and the best strains now produce grand leaves which are +reflexed in such a manner as almost to hide the pot, so that the +foliage presents an extremely ornamental appearance. + +By successive sowings and judicious management it is possible to flower +Gloxinias almost the year through. The most important months for sowing +seed are January, February, and March, and to secure an early display +in the following spring some growers sow again in June or July. + +The soil most suited to Gloxinias is a light porous compost of fibrous +loam. If this is not obtainable, leaf-mould will answer, mixed with +peat and silver sand in about equal parts. New pots are advisable, or +old ones must be thoroughly cleansed, and free drainage is essential to +success. Fill the pots to within half an inch of the top. Sow thinly, +and slightly cover the seed with very fine soil. Place the pots in a +warm, moist position, carefully shading from the sun. A light +sprinkling of water daily will be necessary. Immediately some plants +are large enough for shifting, lift them tenderly from the seed-pot, so +as scarcely to disturb the rest, and prick off into large 60-pots in +which the soil has a convex surface. Follow this process as plants +become ready until all the seedlings have been transferred. When +potting on allow the leaves to rest on the soil, but avoid covering the +hearts. On the first warm day give air on the leeward side of the +house, briefly at first, and increase the time as the plants become +established. A clear space between the plants is necessary to prevent +the leaves of neighbours from meeting. The final shift should be into +48-pots, unless extra fine specimens are required, and then one or two +sizes larger may be used. An occasional dose of weak manure water will +prove beneficial, taking care that the foliage is not wetted. A moist +atmosphere, with the temperature at about 60° to 65°, greatly +facilitates the growth of Gloxinias. With care, however, they may be +well grown in greenhouses and pits heated by hot water. Although the +plants love a humid atmosphere while growing, this ceases to be an +advantage, and, in fact, becomes injurious when the flowers begin to +expand. At that time, also, the manure water should be discontinued. + +Under ‘The Culture of Flowering Bulbs,’ page 331, further instructions +are given. + +GODETIA + +Hardy annual + +So far as the culture of Godetias is concerned, the usual spring sowing +and the regular treatment of hardy annuals will satisfy those who are +content with a display entailing the least possible trouble. But the +Godetia is no ordinary annual. The plants flower with such amazing +profusion, and the colours are so magnificent, that those who wish to +produce striking effects in beds or borders in July and August will +find Godetias of the highest value. All the varieties come perfectly +true to colour and admit of numerous contrasts and harmonies. As an +example, we suggest the following combination for a long border, or +beside a carriage drive. Sow two rows of Alyssum minimum, allowing +twelve inches between the rows; one row of Dwarf Pink Godetia fifteen +inches from the Alyssum; two rows of G. Dwarf Duchess of Albany +eighteen inches apart; one row of G. Scarlet Queen eighteen inches from +the preceding variety, and one row of Double Rose at the back. The +result will astonish those who have not previously seen a really fine +exposition of this flower. Many other combinations will occur to those +who carefully study colour schemes. + +There are few annuals more greatly valued for cutting than the taller +varieties of Godetia. These mainly produce double flowers in sprays two +feet or more in length which develop into full beauty after being +placed in water. + +March and April are the months for sowing seed in the open for a summer +display, and September for spring flowering. Good effects, however, are +obtained by raising a sufficient number of plants in boxes and pricking +off in readiness for putting out after bulbs and spring bedders have +been cleared away. Under this practice there need not be a blank or a +defective specimen. + +Dwarf Godetias make exceedingly symmetrical and attractive pot plants. +For this purpose sow seed in October in pans and place them in a +temperature of 55° until the seedlings appear, then remove to a cooler +place. As soon as possible prick off three in each 48-pot and when +established grow on during winter in cold frames, giving air daily +except in frosty weather, when the frames must remain closed and can be +protected with whatever covering may be at hand. Here it may be well to +point out that even when touched by frost the plants will recover if +they are shaded from the sun’s rays until the pots are quite clear of +frost. Godetias flowered in pots make bright groups in conservatories, +and occasionally do good service where failures occur in beds. + +GREVILLEA ROBUSTA + +Australian Oak. Greenhouse shrub + +In its native country, New South Wales, this is a stately tree. Here it +is grown as a pot plant, and the finely cut, drooping, fern-like +foliage produces one of the most graceful decorative subjects we +possess. Its value is enhanced by the fact that it withstands the +baneful influences of gas, dust, and changes of temperature better than +the majority of table plants. + +Seedlings are easily raised by those who can exercise patience; and +afterwards the simplest cool culture will suffice to grow handsome +specimens. But we do not know any seed—not even the Auricula—which +takes more time and is so capricious in germinating. In all cases where +seed is sown in fairly rich soil, which has to be kept constantly moist +and undisturbed for a long period, there is a tendency to sourness, +especially on the surface. Free drainage will do something towards +preventing this. Another aid in the same direction is to cover the seed +with a layer of sand, and the sand with a thin coating of ordinary +potting soil. When the surface becomes covered with moss, the coating +of soil can be gently removed down to the sand, and be replaced with +fresh earth, without detriment to the seeds. + +Sow at any time of the year, in 48-sized pots filled with rather firm +soil; and as the seedlings straggle through and show two pairs of +leaves, pot them off singly, and give the shelter of a close pit or +frame until they become established. They must not be allowed to suffer +for lack of water, but there is no necessity to give them manure water +at any stage of growth. An occasional re-potting is the only other +attention they will require until they reach the final size, and the +pots need not then be large. + +HOLLYHOCK + +Althæa rosea. Hardy perennial + +Generations of unnatural treatment had so debilitated the Hollyhock +that disease threatened to banish it from our gardens. Just at the +critical time it was discovered that the plant could be grown and +satisfactorily flowered from seed. Florists at once turned their +attention to the production of seed worth growing, and with marked +success. The best strains may now be relied on to produce a large +proportion of perfectly formed double flowers, imposing in size, +colour, and substance. The seedlings also possess a constitution +capable of withstanding the deadly _Puccinia malvacearum_, and there is +no longer a danger that this stately plant will become merely one of +the pleasures of memory. + +In growing the Hollyhock it is necessary to remember that a large +amount of vegetable tissue has to be produced within a brief period, so +that the treatment throughout its career should be exceptionally +liberal. Some gardeners are successful in flowering Hollyhocks as +annuals. Where this course is adopted it is usual to sow in January in +well-drained pots or seed-pans filled with rich soil freely mixed with +sand, covering the seed with a slight dusting of fine earth. A +temperature of 65° or 70° is necessary, and in about a fortnight the +plants should attain a height of one inch, when they will be ready for +pricking off round the edges of 4-1/2-inch pots, filled with a good +porous compost. Put the seedlings in so that the first leaves just +touch the surface. At the beginning of March transfer singly to thumb +pots, and immediately the roots take hold remove to pits or frames, +where they can be exposed to genial showers and be gradually hardened. +Defer the planting out until the weather is quite warm and settled. + +The shrubbery border is the natural position for the Hollyhock, but the +regular occupants keep the soil poor, and for such a rapid-growing +plant as we are now considering there is obviously all the greater need +for deep digging and liberal manuring. If put out during dry weather, +complete the operation with a soaking of water, and repeat this twice a +week until rain falls. Give each plant a clear space of three or four +feet to afford easy access for staking and watering. By midsummer +offshoots will begin to push through the soil. The removal of these +will throw all the strength of the plant into one stem. To insure its +safety a strong stake will be required, which should be firmly driven +into the ground, and rise six or seven feet above it. In case of an +accident at any time to the central stem the hope of flowers for that +year is gone, and it is therefore worth some pains to prevent a mishap. +The tying must be done with judgment, and as the plants increase in +size an occasional inspection will save the stems from being cut. +Several inches of half-decayed cow-manure placed round the stems, with +a saucer-like hollow in the centre to retain water, will be helpful to +the roots, and if the flowers are intended for exhibition, the +treatment can scarcely be too generous. + +It is, however, easy to grow and flower Hollyhocks without the aid of +artificial heat. On a south border in June prepare drills about two +inches deep and a foot apart. Place an inch of rich sifted soil in each +drill, and upon this sow the seed very thinly, covering it about a +quarter of an inch. If the weather be dry, give a gentle soaking of +water, and finish with a dusting of soot to prevent vermin from eating +the seedlings. Thin the plants to six inches apart, and they may remain +in the seed-rows until the end of September. Whether they are then +transplanted straight to blooming quarters, or put into a cold frame +for the winter, depends on soil and climate. In the southern counties, +and on light land, it will generally be safe to winter Hollyhocks in +the open, with merely a shelter of dry fern or litter. But in heavy +loam or clay the risk is too great, and the cold frame must be resorted +to. In this they will be secure, and can be ventilated as weather +permits. As the season advances give more air, until they are planted +out in May. Seed may also be sown in pans in July or August, the +seedlings being transferred in due course to pots for the winter. The +protection of a frame will suffice, provided that frost is kept away, +and the plants may be put out in spring as already advised. + +IMPATIENS + +Sultan’s Balsam. Tender perennial + +Early sowing should be avoided for two reasons. The seed germinates but +slowly in dull weather, and the seedlings when raised are almost +certain to damp off. We do not advise a start before March, and not +until April unless a steady heat of 60° or 65° can be maintained. Sow +in well-drained pots, filled with soil composed of two parts of turfy +loam and one part of leaf-soil, with very little sand added. The +seedlings are exceedingly brittle at the outset, and re-potting should +not be attempted until they are about an inch high. Even then they need +delicate handling, and after the task is accomplished they should be +promptly placed in a warm frame or propagating pit for a few days. In +June or July the plants should reach 48-sized pots, but they must not +be transferred to the conservatory without careful hardening, or the +whole of the flowers will fall. _I. Holstii_ also succeeds well when +bedded out in summer in the same manner as Begonias. + +JACOBEA—_see_ SENECIO + +KOCHIA TRICHOPHYLLA + +Half-hardy annual + +This remarkable variety of _K. scoparia_ is a miniature annual shrub, +which is also known as Summer Cypress, or Belvidere. It is singularly +attractive, of rapid growth and graceful habit. In a very brief time +the finely cut foliage forms a compact cylindrical plant, beautifully +domed at the top, and the tender green changes to a rich russet-crimson +in autumn. + +Seed may be sown in slight heat during February or March to provide +early plants for pots, or for setting out in the open immediately the +bedding season commences. It is important not to crowd the seedlings, +and every precaution should be taken to prevent them from becoming +thin, leggy, or wanting in symmetry. Each plant must be allowed +sufficient space to develop equally all round. An April sowing can be +made in the open where the plants are intended to remain, and beyond +regular thinning they will give very little trouble. + +As a conspicuous dot plant in beds this Kochia is extremely useful, or +it can be massed in borders, and it also forms an admirable dividing +line in the flower garden. For the decoration of conservatories a +number should be specially reserved. Specimens may be employed with +striking effect on flights of steps, in halls, and many other positions +where a plant of perfect outline will serve as an ornament. Height, 2 +to 3 feet. + +LARKSPUR + +Hardy annual + +The cultivation of the annual Delphiniums, more familiarly known as +Larkspurs, is so simple in character that it calls for little comment. +But these handsome subjects are so widely grown, and so greatly +appreciated, that they are fully deserving of special mention here. The +taller varieties, of which the Stock-flowered strain is the most +popular, are best grown in large beds, borders and shrubberies, and the +dwarfer kinds in small beds. Apart from their usefulness in the garden, +however, the taller sorts of Larkspur are much in request for providing +cut material, particularly for the decoration of the dinner-table, and +a number of plants should always be grown in reserve for this purpose. +It is usual to put in the seed where the plants are intended to stand, +and March and April are the best months for sowing. Thin out the +seedlings promptly, and give each plant ample room for development, +especially when grown on good ground. + +Larkspurs may also be sown in September for producing an earlier +display in the following year than is possible from spring-sown seed. + +LAVATERA + +Mallow. Hardy annual and hardy perennial + +Countryside gardens owe not a little of their floral brightness to the +Mallows. The modern varieties of Lavatera, however, far surpass in +effectiveness the flowers commonly met with and are regarded as among +the finest subjects for creating an imposing display in tall borders +and large beds. For this purpose the annual varieties, Loveliness, +_Rosea splendens_, and _Alba splendens_, are the most popular. As +transplanting is not to be depended upon, seed should be sown thinly in +March, April or May where the plants are wanted to flower. If the +ground has been generously prepared fine specimens will result, and +each plant should be allowed a spacing of at least two feet for +development. + +The perennial variety, _L. Olbia_, makes a bold subject for herbaceous +borders and shrubberies. Seed may be sown in pans any time from March +to August, putting out the plants when large enough for flowering in +the following season. Small plants of this variety may with advantage +be potted for conservatory decoration. + +LOBELIA + +Annual and perennial; half-hardy + +There are several distinct classes of Lobelia, differing materially in +height and habit. For dwarf beds or edgings the _compact_ varieties +should alone be used. These grow from four to six inches high, and form +dense balls of flowers. The _spreading_ or _gracilis_ class, including +_L. speciosa_ and _L. Paxtoniana_, is in deserved repute for positions +which do not demand an exact limit to the line of colouring. The plants +also show to advantage in suspended baskets, window boxes, rustic work, +vases, and any position where an appearance of graceful negligence is +aimed at. The _ramosa_ section grows from nine to twelve inches high, +and produces much larger flowers than the classes previously named. + +All the foregoing can be treated as annuals; and from sowings, made in +February or March plants may be raised in good time for bedding out in +May. Use sandy soil, and place the seed-pans in a temperature of about +60°, taking care to keep them moist. By the end of March or beginning +of April the seedlings will be ready for transferring to pots, pans, or +boxes. The last named are very serviceable for this flower, for they +afford opportunity of giving the seedlings sufficient space to produce +a tufty habit of growth. A gentle heat will start them, and they will +give no trouble afterwards, except on one point, which happens to be of +considerable importance. It is that the plants should never be allowed +to produce a flower while in pots or boxes. Pick off every bud until +they are in final positions, and then, having taken hold of the soil, +they will bloom profusely until the end of the season. + +Lobelias make elegant pot plants, yet, with the exception of the +_ramosa_ varieties which are excellent for the purpose, they cannot be +grown satisfactorily in pots. The difficulty is easily surmounted by +putting them out a foot apart in a good open position, and if possible +in a rather stiff soil. When they have developed into fine clumps lift +them with care and place them in pots, avoiding injury to the roots. +This method will produce a display of colour which cannot be attained +by exclusive pot culture. + +From the best strains of seed it is possible that a few plants may +revert to long-lost characters. Florists are striving to obviate this, +but it will require time. Meanwhile there are two ways of dealing with +the difficulty. Some growers prefer to raise plants from seed, and take +cuttings from approved specimens for the next season. This plan insures +exactitude in height and colour, with almost the robust growth and +free-flowering qualities of seedlings. But it necessitates holding a +stock through the winter, and this may be a serious matter to many. The +simpler proceeding, and one which answers well in practice, is to raise +seedlings annually and to remove from the pans or boxes any plants +which show the least deviation from the true type. A few kept as a +reserve will replace faulty specimens which may be detected after +planting out. + +The handsome perennial section of Lobelias obtains less attention than +it deserves, especially as the most ordinary routine culture will +suffice for these plants. They are partial to moisture, and also to a +deep rich loam. A sowing on moderate heat in February or March will +secure plants fit for bedding out in May. They may also be grown +entirely without the aid of artificial heat from sowings in June or +July. Employ pots or seed-pans, and pot off singly immediately the +plants are large enough to handle. The protection of a cold frame or +hand-light is all that is necessary during winter, and the planting out +may be done in May. These Lobelias reach two feet in height, and make +excellent companions to such flowers as _Anemone japonica alba_ and +_Hyacinthus candicans_. The dark metallic foliage and dazzling scarlet +flowers also have an imposing effect as the back row of a ribbon +border. + +LUPINUS + +Lupine. Hardy annual and hardy perennial + +Both the annual and the perennial Lupines are extremely valuable for +garden decoration and for supplying an abundance of cut blooms. Each +class includes a number of charming colours and many of the flowers are +delightfully scented. Not the least of their merits is the fact that +Lupines are not particular as to soil; indeed, the annual sorts will +often thrive on ground that is too poor for other and more fastidious +subjects. + +The annual varieties should be sown where intended to flower, as they +do not transplant well. Sow the seed in March, April, or May, and +subsequently allow each specimen a space of about eighteen inches for +development. + +_L. polyphyllus_ is a valuable race of perennial Lupines which, from a +sowing made in March or April and treated as annuals, will produce a +fine show in the following autumn. In order to insure a display earlier +in the season, however, many growers of these flowers prefer to sow in +June and July of the preceding year. Two varieties of _L. arboreus_ +form large bushes which are distinctly ornamental when in full bloom. +The seed should be sown in June or July and the seedlings transplanted +to flowering positions before they become very large. + +MARIGOLD + +Tagetes. Half-hardy annual + +Marigolds of several classes are valued for the profuse display of +their golden flowers in the later summer months. The choicest are the +so-called French, or _Tagetes patula_, which have richly coloured +flowers, and some of the varieties are beautifully striped. For their +high quality these Marigolds are judged by the florists’ standards. The +African, or _Tagetes erecta_, make large bushy plants with flowers +‘piled high’ in the centre; the colours are intense orange and yellow. +in various shades. The bedding section is represented by the dwarf +varieties of _Tagetes patula_, or Dwarf French Marigolds; also by +_Tagetes signata,_ a very neat plant with fine foliage and rather small +orange-coloured flowers, produced in great abundance. In hot seasons +and on dry soils this proves an admirable substitute for the +Calceolaria, which does not thrive when short of food, whereas the +Tagetes bears drought, the shade of trees, and a poor soil with +patience, and up to a certain point with advantage. Sow all these in +March in a moderate heat, and prick the plants out in the usual way, +taking care finally to allot them sunny positions. Seed may also be +sown in the open ground at the end of April or early in May. + +The section of Pot Marigolds, _Calendula officinalis_, includes two +remarkably handsome varieties, Orange King and Lemon Queen; the flowers +of both are large, double, perfectly formed, and are worth a place in +the choicest garden. These may be sown on the open border in March, +April, and May, and the best place for them is in the full sun on a +rather dry poor soil, but they are not particular, provided they are +not much shaded. + +MARVEL OF PERU + +Mirabilis Jalapa. Half-hardy perennial + +This flower may be treated either as an annual or as a biennial. As an +annual the plants are very compact and effective, the leaves and +flowers forming round glittering masses in the late summer and autumn +months. When the roots are saved through the winter and planted out in +April larger plants are obtained, but there is no advance in quality +over the very neat and sparkling specimens raised from seed in spring. +Sow in heat in March and April, and treat in the same manner as Balsams +until the time arrives for planting out. A rich sandy loam suits them, +and they like full exposure to sunshine. + +MIGNONETTE + +Reseda odorata. Hardy annual + +Mignonette is so much prized that we must devote to it a paragraph, +although there is little to be said. In many gardens plants appear year +after year from self-sown seeds, and it will therefore be evident that +Mignonette may be grown with the utmost simplicity. As a border plant +we have but to sow where it is to remain, at different times from March +to midsummer; the one important point is to make the bed very firm; in +fact the soil should be trodden hard. It is imperative to thin early +and severely, for any one plant left alone will soon be a foot in +diameter, and in some circumstances cover a much larger area. Where +bees are kept and space can be afforded, seed should be sown in +quantity, for Mignonette honey is of the finest quality in flavour and +fragrance. In pot culture it should be remembered that Mignonette does +not transplant well; therefore, having sown, say, a dozen seeds in each +of a batch of 48-or 32-sized pots, firmly filled with rich porous soil +to which a little lime or mortar rubble has been added, the young +plants must be thinned down to five, or even three, in each pot, as +soon as they begin to grow freely. If small plants are wanted early, +leave five in a pot; if larger specimens are wanted later, leave only +three, or even only one. For winter and spring, sow in August and +September and keep them as hardy as possible until it becomes necessary +to put them under glass for the winter. A further sowing for succession +may be made in January or February. Several strains of different tints +are now at the command of cultivators of this favourite flower. + +MIMULUS + +Monkey Flower. Hardy perennial + +This flower will grow in almost any soil, although a moist retentive +loam and a shady situation are best adapted for it. There are many +varieties, differing in height, and all are worth growing, both in pots +and borders. If sown in February or March, and treated as greenhouse +annuals, they will flower in the first year. It is easy to raise a +large number of plants in a cold frame, and they make a rich display in +borders and beds later in the year. Sowings in the open ground during +summer will supply plants for blooming in the following season, but the +most satisfactory course is to grow them as annuals, and at the end of +the summer consign them to the waste heap. The Mimulus is quite hardy, +and the most ordinary care will suffice for it. Water in plenty it must +have, or the flowering period will be curtailed. + +The well-known Musk is a Mimulus (_M. moschatus_), and is as easily +grown from seed as other varieties. It makes a valuable pot plant. + +MYOSOTIS + +Forget-me-not. Perennials, hardy and half-hardy + +AT one time an impression prevailed that all the varieties of Myosotis +were semi-aquatic, and could only be grown satisfactorily in very damp +shady places. And it is quite true that most of them bloom for a longer +period in a moist than in a dry soil. Still, they all flower freely, +and last a considerable time in any garden border. + +The only half-hardy variety that need be referred to is Sutton’s Pot +Myosotis, which is a delightful subject for flowering indoors at +Christmas time; and as Forget-me-nots are everywhere welcome, the +practice of growing plants in pots is rapidly increasing. Seed should +be sown in a cold frame in June, and the seedlings can be potted on as +required, taking care from the commencement to avoid crowding as a +precaution against mildew, to which the plants are very liable. The +strain referred to produces fine free-growing specimen plants, and a +batch should always be in reserve for cutting. For table decoration in +winter Forget-me-nots are very telling. + +All the hardy varieties may be sown from May to July for a brilliant +display in the following spring. The seed should be put into a prepared +seed-bed under the shelter of a wall or hedge; and in autumn the plants +must be transferred to blooming quarters at the earliest opportunity. + +Myosotis make an extremely effective groundwork for spring bulbs, for +which purpose _M. dissitiflora_ is the most valuable. + +NASTURTIUM—_see_ TROPÆOLUM + +NEMESIA STRUMOSA SUTTONI + +Half-hardy annual + +THIS beautiful South African annual is remarkable for its floriferous +character, long duration of bloom, and diversity of colour. Since we +introduced it to this country in 1888 it has attained great popularity +as a pot plant for table decoration, and some of the most resplendent +bedding effects in public parks and gardens have been secured with this +flower. + +For an early show of bloom sow in pots or pans in March under glass, +using a compost consisting largely of good fibrous loam, with the +addition of a small proportion of wood ashes. No more heat than +necessary should be used, and when the seedlings are large enough to +handle prick them off and gradually harden for planting out in May. +Other sowings may be made in May and June, and at this period of the +year the seed germinates most quickly in boxes placed in a cool shady +spot out of doors. In early summer seed may also be sown in the open +border, and by thinning to a distance of six or eight inches sturdy +plants will be secured, which will remain in bloom until quite late in +autumn. + +For winter and early spring flowering in pots seed should be sown in +August or September. There must be no attempt at forcing, or attenuated +worthless plants will result. A further sowing may be made in January +for blooming in the later spring months. + +Like the seed of Verbena, Furze, and some other subjects, the +germination of Nemesia under artificial conditions is somewhat +capricious, but no difficulty will be experienced with open-air +sowings. + +NICOTIANA + +Tobacco. Half-hardy annual + +The delicious fragrance of the Tobacco plant, especially during the +morning and evening, has made it a great favourite in the greenhouse +and conservatory, as well as in beds and borders near frequented paths. + +As a pot plant too, the Nicotiana is exceedingly useful, the large +sweet-scented white, soft pink, and rich red coloured flowers being +very attractive. A group of plants placed in the porch will, in the +earlier and later hours of the day, as the door is opened, fill the +house with their delightful perfume. Seed may be sown from January to +June, and a continuance of bloom may thus be secured during nearly nine +months of the year. Prick off the seedlings as soon as they are fit to +handle, for if sown too thickly they are liable to damp off rapidly. +Gradually harden off if required for planting out in May or June. In +some places, more especially in the South of England, Tobacco seed sown +on an open sunny border early in May will produce fine plants that will +flower freely in August. + +PANSY + +Viola tricolor. Hardy perennial + +The popularity of this flower has been greatly extended and the culture +simplified since it became the practice to raise the required number of +plants every year from seed. For all ordinary purposes the trouble of +striking cuttings and keeping stocks in pots through the winter is mere +waste of labour and pit-room. The Pansy is a little fastidious, but not +severely so. It thrives in a cool climate, with partial shade in high +summer, and in a rich, moist, sandy soil. Notwithstanding all this, the +Pansy will grow almost anywhere and anyhow; but as fine flowers of this +old favourite are highly prized, the plant should be treated with +reasonable care to do justice to its great merits. + +A thick sowing is very liable to damp off: therefore sow thinly, either +in pots or boxes, in February and March. The thin sowing, moreover, +renders it possible to take out the forward plants without disturbing +the remainder. In due course transplant into pans or boxes of good +soil, and place in some cool spot where the plants may gradually harden +off. When they have become stocky, remove to beds or borders, with +balls of earth attached to the roots. Should the surrounding soil +become set by heavy rain or by watering, a slight stirring of the +surface will prove beneficial. + +Seed sown in the open ground during the summer months will readily +germinate, and the seedlings need no attention beyond thinning to about +six inches apart until they are ready for transferring to their proper +positions, where they will produce a mass of bloom in the following +spring. + +The Pansy puts forth its buds very early in the year. Whether they are +particularly tasty, or the scarcity of young vegetable growth gives +them undue prominence, we know not, but certain it is that sparrows +show a marked partiality for them. And having once acquired a taste for +the buds, these impudent marauders will not leave them alone; they +evidently regard Pansies as the perfection of a winter salad. Their +depredations can be prevented by an application of water flavoured with +quassia or paraffin oil, which must be repeated after rain. + +PELARGONIUM + +Greenhouse perennial + +All kinds of Pelargonium may be raised from seed with the certainty of +giving satisfaction if the work be well done. An amateur, who +contributed to the production of symmetrical flowers in the Zonal +section, found that under ordinary treatment Zonals began to bloom in +one hundred days from the date of sowing the seed, and some of those +that flowered earliest proved to be the finest. The cultivator will +soon discover that one rule is important, and that is to sow seed saved +from really good strains. The simplest greenhouse culture suffices to +raise Pelargoniums from seed. Some growers sow in July or August; +others in January or February. The summer sowing necessitates careful +winter keeping, and the flowers appear earlier than those from +spring-sown seed. But the spring sowing is the easier to manage, and is +recommended to all beginners. Any light, sandy loam will serve for +these plants, and it is well to flower the principal bulk of them in +48-and 32-sized pots, for if grown to a great size the date of +flowering is deferred without any corresponding advantage. + +PENTSTEMON + +Hardy perennial + +Penstemons when grown as half-hardy annuals are a valuable addition to +beds and borders, where they produce a brilliant effect in summer. In +borders it is not advisable to plant singly, but they should be +employed in groups of not less than one dozen. It is also important to +sow a strain consisting principally of scarlet and pink shades with +white markings, as well as white flowers; under fair conditions there +will be a profusion of richly coloured blooms on stately spikes about +two feet high. Sow in heat during February or March and plant out in +genial weather. It is not necessary to keep them after flowering has +finished, although seedling Pentstemons on comparatively dry soil in +favourable districts scarcely feel the winter. Seed may also be sown in +June, in the manner usual with hardy perennials, and the plants will +bloom in advance of those which are spring-sown. + +PETUNIA + +Half-hardy perennial + +The Petunia affords another example of the immense strides accomplished +in the art of seed-saving. Formerly the colours were few, and the +blossoms comparatively insignificant. Now the single strains produce +large flowers, beautiful in form, including self colours and others +which are striped, blotched, and veined, in almost endless diversity. +Some are plain-edged, others elegantly fringed. The double varieties +also come so nearly true to their types that there is little necessity +for keeping a stock through the winter. Plants raised from seed of the +large-flowered strain embrace a wide range of resplendent colours, and +the doubles are perfect rosettes, exquisitely finished in form and +marking. + +The only way of obtaining double seedlings is to save seed from the +finest single blooms fertilised with pollen of good double flowers. +Plants raised from such seed may be relied on to produce a fair +proportion of double flowers of great beauty, and those which come +single will be of the large-flowered type. + +The dwarf varieties attain the height of five to eight inches only, and +make admirable edging and bedding plants. The taller strains range from +one to two feet, and are handsome subjects for border and shrubbery +work. Both dwarf and tall sections are sufficiently brilliant and +free-flowering to produce a beautiful display as pot plants in the +greenhouse and conservatory. + +For indoor decoration, the third week in January will be early enough +to commence operations. Two parts of leaf-mould, one of loam, and one +of sharp sand, make an excellent soil for them. Fill the pots or +seed-pans within half an inch of the rim, and press the soil firmly +down. Sow thinly on an even surface, and cover the seed with almost +pure sand. Keep the pots or pans uniformly moist with a fine rose and a +light hand, and in a temperature of about 60°. Greater heat will render +the seedlings weak and straggling. From this condition it will take +some skill and much time to redeem them; indeed, they may not produce a +good display of flowers until the season is well-nigh over. Just as the +seed is germinating is a critical time for Petunias, and a little extra +watchfulness then will be fully repaid. + +In February the sun has not sufficient power to do mischief, so that +shading is generally unnecessary. An even temperature and freedom from +draughts should insure seedlings strong enough to prick off by the end +of that month. Put the plants into seed-pans about an inch apart, so +that the first leaves just touch the soil, still using a light compost. + +In April they should be ready for transferring to small 60-pots. +Subsequently they must be potted on as growth demands, until they reach +the 48-or even the 32-size. After re-potting place the plants in a +sheltered part of the house or frame, where shade can, if necessary, be +given until the roots are established. Frequent sprinklings of water, +and a temperature of 60° or 65°, will give them a vigorous start. The +lights ought to be put down in good time in the evening, but this must +be done with judgment, or the plants will lose their healthy colour and +assume a yellowish tinge. Insufficient drainage has a precisely similar +effect. In about ten days air may be given more freely, and then no +suitable opportunity of exposure should be lost. + +In raising Petunias for bedding, the same conditions are applicable; +but as it is useless to put them into the open ground until the weather +is warm and settled, the sowing need not be made until the end of +February or the beginning of March. And for bedding there is no +occasion to put the plants into larger pots than the 60-size. It will +be necessary to give these seedlings shade in their young state, after +they have been pricked off or potted. + +The beds or borders intended for Petunias will be better without recent +manure, for this tends to the excessive production of foliage and +defers the flowering until late in the season. Do not be tempted by the +first sunny day to put them out, but wait for settled weather. A +cutting east wind, such as we sometimes have in May, will ruin them +irretrievably. Each plant of the tall class will occupy a space of two +feet, and the dwarfs may be one foot apart. + +In potting Petunias, those which are weakly among the singles will +probably produce the most valued colours, and from seed sown for +doubles it may be accepted as a rule that from the feebler seedlings +the finest rosette-shaped flowers may be expected. + +All Petunias are impatient of being pot-bound, and this applies +especially to the double varieties. They will, if treated generously, +do ample justice to the 8-or even the 10-inch size. The growth should +not be hurried at any stage, and if the foliage has a dark, healthy, +green colour, free from blight, there will be magnificent flowers four +or five inches across. The final shift should be into a sound compost, +consisting, if possible, of good loam and leaf-mould in equal parts, +with sufficient sand added to insure drainage. About a fortnight later +commence giving weak manure water once a week instead of the ordinary +watering, and as the buds appear it may be increased in strength, and +be administered twice a week until the flowers expand. + +Petunias are accommodating in their growth, and may be trained into +various forms. The pyramid and fan-shape are most common, and the least +objectionable. We confess, however, to a feeling of antipathy to +fanciful shapes in plants, no matter what they may be. It is a +necessity of our artificial conditions of culture that many of them +should be trained and tied to produce shapely specimens, but the more +nearly the gardener’s art approaches Nature, the greater pleasure we +derive from his labours. + +PHLOX DRUMMONDII + +Half-hardy annual + +Those who are acquainted with the older forms of this annual might fail +to recognise a friend under its new and improved appearance. There are +now several beautiful types, each possessing characteristics of its +own, and all producing flowers that are perfect in form and brilliant +in colour. The large-flowered section produces splendid bedding plants, +but the dwarf compact varieties are also highly prized for effective +massing and general usefulness. The latter attain a height seldom +exceeding six inches, and are therefore eminently suitable for edgings +and borders, as well as for bedding. They bloom profusely for a long +period, not only in the open ground, but also as pot plants in the +greenhouse or conservatory, where they are conspicuous for the richness +of their display. + +For early flowering sow seed of all the varieties in February or March +in well-drained pans or shallow boxes. Any good sifted soil, made firm, +will suit them, and every seed should be separately pressed in, +allowing about an inch between each; then cover with fine soil. This +will generally give sufficient space between the plants to save +pricking off; but if the growth becomes so strong as to render a +transfer necessary, lift every alternate plant, fill the vacant spots +with soil, and those left will have room to develop. Pot the plants +that are taken out, give them a start in a frame, and shade from direct +sunshine. Phloxes should not be coddled; the best results are always +obtained from sturdy plants which have been hardened as far as possible +by free access of air from their earliest stage of growth. This does +not imply that they are to be rudely transferred from protection to the +open air. The change can easily be managed gradually until some genial +evening makes it perfectly safe to expose them fully. A space of about +two feet each way is required for each plant of the large-flowered +class, but a more modest allowance of nine or twelve inches will +suffice for the dwarf varieties. Before they are put out the plants +must be free from aphis; if not, fumigation should be resorted to once +or twice until there is a clearance of the pest. Seed of the annual +Phlox may also be sown in the open ground during the latter part of +May, and the plants will flower abundantly from mid-August until frost +destroys them. + +The employment of Phlox as pot plants has already been alluded to, but +special mention must be made of Purity, which is by far the most +valuable of all the varieties for blooming indoors. The pure white +flowers, which are sweetly scented, may be produced at almost any +period of the year. They are, perhaps, more highly appreciated at +Easter than at any other time, and to insure a display at that season +seed should be sown in September or October. The plants will do well if +grown on in a cold frame, the final shift being into pots of the +48-size. When grown under glass, Phlox should be given treatment as +nearly hardy as possible, all that is necessary in regulating +temperature being the exclusion of frost from the greenhouse or frame. + +PHLOX, PERENNIAL + +Hardy perennial + +The seed of perennial Phlox is very slow and erratic in germinating, +and from a sowing made in September the seedlings may not appear until +the following spring. Seed may also be sown in the first week of March +in shallow boxes, and put into moderate heat. In due time prick out +into boxes filled with light rich soil, and having hardened them in the +usual way, plant out a foot apart in a good bed, and help, if needful, +with an occasional watering. + +PICOTEE + +Dianthus Caryophyllus fl. pi. Hardy perennial + +Seedling Picotees are extremely robust and free-flowering, and seed +saved from the best types will produce handsome specimens. The +instructions for growing Carnation—sowing in pans from April to August +and transplanting when large enough—are equally applicable to the +Picotee. + +PINK + +Dianthus plumarius. Hardy perennial + +This old English flower is valued in every garden. Both the double and +single varieties are easily raised from seed and the plants bloom with +the greatest freedom. Seed may be sown any time from April to August. +Treat the seedlings in the manner advised for Carnations, and in due +course transfer to open quarters. The foliage maintains its colour +during the severest winter, and is therefore worth consideration for +furnishing the border, to say nothing of the abundant display of +perfumed flowers which the plants afford in early summer. + +POLYANTHUS + +Primula (veris) elatior. Hardy perennial + +A sowing in February or March in pans will produce strong specimens for +flowering in the following year. Or seed may be sown from May to July +on a shady border. Prick off the seedlings when large enough to handle. +The plants should never flag for want of water, and green fly must be +kept down by syringing. Some good solution will be necessary against +red spider if through starvation in a dry situation it has been +permitted to gain a footing. All the varieties can be grown in a bed +with a cool shaded aspect. They do not require a rich soil; a strong +and fibrous loam with a little leaf-mould is sufficient. On passing out +of flower the plants will split up into several heads, when they may be +separated and potted singly. Exquisite colour effects can be created by +planting Polyanthus in association with beds of Tulips for flowering in +April. + +POPPY + +Papaver. Hardy annual and hardy perennial + +The recent developments of this flower have brought it into great and +deserved popularity, and it may be safely affirmed that few other +subjects in our gardens afford a more imposing display of brilliant +colouring during the blooming period. The delicate beauty of the +Shirley Poppies is alone sufficient to create a reputation for the +entire class, and the huge flowers of the double varieties make a +gorgeous show. All the varieties are eminently adapted for enlivening +shrubbery borders and the sides of carriage-drives. + +Seeds of Annual Poppies should be sown where the plants are intended to +flower, because it is difficult to transplant with any measure of +success. During March or April sow in lines or groups, _and thin to +about a foot apart_. Large clumps of some of the bolder colours should +be sown in spots that are visible from a distance, and they will +present glowing masses of flowers. + +By sowing seeds of Perennial Poppies in pans in March, and putting out +the seedlings when large enough, the plants will flower the same year. +The more general practice, however, is to sow very thinly on a +well-prepared border any time from May to August. Keep the seedlings +free from weeds, and thin out if necessary. The plants may be +transferred to permanent quarters early in autumn or in the spring +months. + +PORTULACA + +Purslane. Half-hardy annual + +This is a splendid subject when the weather favours it. In a dry hot +season, and on a sandy soil, Portulacas can be grown as easily as +Cress. Sowings are sometimes made early in the year in greenhouses or +frames; but as a rule it is a vain attempt. Wait until May or June, +when the weather appears settled; then put the seed into the open +border, and the lighter the soil, and the hotter the season, the more +brilliant will be the display of flowers. Sow on raised beds, in rows +six or nine inches apart, and cover the seed with sand or fine earth. +If the plants appear to be injuriously close they must be thinned. +Should a period of rain ensue, the raised beds have a distinct +advantage over a flat surface, and rows afford opportunity for stirring +the soil and keeping down weeds. + +PRIMROSE + +Primula vulgaris. Hardy perennial + +The mere name of this flower is sufficient to recall visions of spring +and perhaps of happy visits to its haunts in days gone by. But many +ardent lovers of the Primrose may not know that the strains which are +now in favour embrace a wide range of colour, from pure white to deep +crimson or maroon, various shades of yellow and orange, and rich blue. +In fact, in a batch of seedlings nearly every plant may differ from its +companions. They all agree, however, in possessing the delicate perfume +which is characteristic of the hardy woodland favourite. Fancy +Primroses are prized as pot and border flowers, and they fully reward +florists for all the care which has been devoted to their improvement. +They will bloom satisfactorily in any shady spot; but to grow them to +perfection requires a stiff moist loam, on the north side of some hedge +or shrubbery, where glimpses of sunshine occasionally play upon them. +Here large flowers, intense in colour, will be abundantly produced far +into the spring. + +The finest plants are generally obtained from a February or March +sowing made in pans or boxes. Seed may also be sown from May to July in +carefully prepared ground in the open. If inclined to take some pains +in raising the plants—and they are certainly worth it—make the summer +sowings in seed-pans in ordinary potting soil; sprinkle a little sand +over the seed, and as a finish press firmly down. Sheets of glass laid +over the pans and turned daily will prevent rapid evaporation and help +to keep the soil uniformly moist. The seedlings either may be potted +once, and then be planted out, or, if strong enough, they may be +transferred straight to flowering positions. Should this mode of +procedure be considered too troublesome, prepare a shady patch of +ground by deep digging; make it firm and level, and on this sow in +shallow drills, covering the seed very lightly. A dressing of soot over +the surface, and a cordon of ashes round it, will keep off slugs. Thin +if necessary, and when the plants are strong enough, remove to their +proper quarters. In February the buds will begin to show, and those +intended for pots should be allowed to reveal their colours before they +are taken up, so that a variety may be obtained. From a retentive soil +each plant with its surrounding earth may be taken out almost exactly +of the size required, and it should be rather smaller than the pot +which has to accommodate it. A light soil must be watered the day +before the operation, or the roots will be injuriously exposed. When +potted, place the plants in a shaded cold frame or greenhouse, allowing +them plenty of space, and withhold water until it is absolutely +necessary. At first they should be kept close, but as the roots become +established gradually give air more and more freely. Cool, slow +treatment is all that is required. Any attempt to hurry the growth will +only weaken the plants and ruin the colour of the flowers. Just before +the buds open, one or two applications of manure water will be +beneficial. When the display in pots is over, if the plants are put out +in a shady border, they may flower again late in the season. + +PRIMULA SINENSIS + +Chinese Primrose. Greenhouse annual + +The history of the Chinese Primula since it first reached this country +has an almost romantic interest. As originally received the flower was, +and now is, insignificant in size and miserably poor in colour. But +florists at once perceived in it immense possibilities. The result of +their labours, extending over many years, may be seen in the +magnificent Single, Double, and Star Primulas which now adorn +conservatories, greenhouses, and homes. From so small a beginning the +range of colours is amazing; there are snowy-white flowers in several +beautiful forms, a pure Cambridge blue, rich violet-blue, many shades +of rose, pink, scarlet, and gorgeous crimson. Almost equally striking +is the improvement in the foliage, especially the introduction of the +fern-leaf, with its diverse shades of green and richly toned +under-surface. + +To enjoy the bloom for a long period make successive sowings in May and +June. A further sowing may be made in July if necessary. Use new pots +which have been soaked in water; but if these are not at hand, scrub +some old pots clean, for Primulas are fastidious from the outset, and +it is by apparent trifles that some growers produce plants so immensely +superior to others treated with less care. Provide free drainage, and +place a little dry moss over the crocks. Any fairly good rich soil will +be suitable, but a mixture of equal parts of sound fibrous loam and +leaf-mould, with a small addition of silver sand, is best. Press this +compost firmly into the pots to within half an inch of the top. Water +before sowing, and sprinkle sufficient sand over the surface to cover +the soil. On this sand sow evenly and thinly, for it is well known that +the finest new Primula seed comes up irregularly, and a thin sowing +admits of the removal of plants that may be ready, without disturbing +the remainder. Cover the seed with just enough fine soil to hide the +sand, and gently press the surface. Place the pots in a sheltered part +of the greenhouse, protected from draughts and direct sunlight; a small +glazed frame will be useful for this purpose. While the seed is +germinating the temperature should not rise above 70°, or fall below +50°. Immediately the plants are large enough, prick off round the rim +of small pots, and if convenient place them in a propagating box. Water +with care, and shade if necessary. When established give air, which +should be daily increased until the plants will bear placing on the +greenhouse stage. Transfer singly to thumb pots, and subsequently shift +into larger sizes as may be requisite, but never do this until the pots +are filled with roots, and always put the plants in firmly up to the +collar. During July, August, and up to the middle of September expose +freely to the air in any convenient position where shelter can be given +in unfavourable weather. + +Where there is no greenhouse, but only a hot-bed, it is still possible +to grow good Primulas, with care and patience. The instructions given +for treatment in the greenhouse may easily be adapted to the pit or +frame, only there must be a little more watchfulness in affording shade +on sunny days to prevent overheating. + +Endeavour to give the plants a robust constitution from the first, for +weak, rickety things cannot produce a satisfactory bloom. Primulas need +a long period of growth before they flower; hence they should never be +subjected to a forcing temperature. Sufficient heat must be provided to +raise the plants, but afterwards the aim should be to render Primulas +as nearly hardy as possible before cold weather sets in. There must, +however, be ample protection against frost, damp, and cutting winds. + +Primula stellata (_Star Primula_).—This elegant strain of Primula, +introduced by us in 1895, has attained a high position in popular +favour. Although it is not intended to supersede or compete with the +splendid strains of _P. sinensis_, it is a most valuable addition to +the conservatory, and will be found indispensable for general +decorative work. The plants are unusually floriferous and continue in +bloom for a long time. When cut, the sprays travel well and remain +fresh in water many days. For table adornment Star Primulas are +unsurpassed by any other greenhouse flower at their own period of the +year. The culture is precisely the same as for _P. sinensis_. + +Half-hardy Primula.—This section, which embraces a number of very +charming species, includes the well-known _P. obconica grandiflora,_ +which is almost perpetual-blooming under glass. Seed of this Primula +may be sown from February to July, from the earliest of which the +plants will flower in autumn and continue to bloom throughout the +winter. In the early stages the seedlings may be managed as already +directed for _P. sinensis_, bearing in mind that excessive watering +should be avoided. Cool greenhouse treatment will suit the plants well. + +Another half-hardy variety which has recently attained wide popularity +is _P. malacoides_. The dainty flowers are produced tier upon tier to a +height of about two feet and are very sweetly perfumed. For a winter +display sow in February, and successional sowings may be made until +July. _P. malacoides_ especially resents a forcing temperature. +Therefore the culture should be as nearly hardy as possible, and even +in the seedling stage the plants must have free access of air on all +suitable occasions, or they are very liable to damp off. + +Hardy Primula.—A number of very elegant garden Primulas are worthy of +attention. The majority answer well when grown in borders, but they are +especially at home in rock or Alpine gardens. The family is now so +large and so variable in time of blooming that it is possible to have +the different species in flower during almost every month of the year. +As a rule, it is advisable to raise the seedlings in pots or pans +placed in a frame or greenhouse, and to transfer them to the open +ground when thoroughly hardened off. + +RANUNCULUS + +Half-hardy perennial + +The Ranunculus can be grown either from seed or from roots. The seed is +thinly sown from January to March, in boxes four to six inches deep, +filled with good soil. A cool greenhouse or frame is the proper place +for the boxes until the spring is somewhat advanced. A little extra +care is requisite to insure free growth and a hardy constitution, and +the roots should not be turned out of the boxes until they have ceased +growing and are quite ripe; then they may be stored for planting in +November or February. For particulars on the treatment of roots, see +page 348. + +RICINUS + +Castor-oil Plant. Half-hardy annual + +Although this plant flowers freely, it is grown in the sub-tropical +garden principally for its noble ornamental foliage, and also in the +shrubbery border, either alone or in conjunction with other fine +subjects, such as Canna, Solanum, Nicotiana, and Wigandia. Plants of +the dwarfer varieties may also be used with very decorative effect in +conservatories and greenhouses during the summer and autumn months. + +To have plants ready for making a show in early summer they must be +raised as half-hardy annuals in February or March. From the +commencement a rich soil and abundant supplies of water are necessary +for the production of stately specimens. The seed is large, and may be +put singly into pots, or three or four in each, and the latter is the +usual practice. A temperature of about 60° will bring them up. If +several plants are grown in a pot, they must be separated while quite +young, and put into small pots filled with very rich soil. It is almost +impossible to have the compost too rich, so long as drainage is quite +safe. When the pot is full of roots, shift to a larger size, and +commence the process of hardening, in readiness for planting out in +June. This is worth some care, for if the plant receives a check when +put out, it may take a long time to recover, and then part of the brief +growing season will be wasted. Many gardeners never raise Ricinus in +heat, but trust entirely to a sowing in the open on the first day of +May. The seeds are put in three inches deep, in groups of three or +four, and finally the plants are thinned to one at each station. + +Prepare the soil in advance by deep digging and the incorporation of an +abundant supply of manure. The most effectual way of doing it is to +take out the earth to a depth of eighteen inches or two feet, and fill +in with decayed manure and loam, chiefly the former. Upon this put out +the plant, or sow seed as may be determined. If this is too great a tax +on resources, or the near presence of shrubs renders the proceeding +impossible, drive a bar into the soil, which, if light, can be readily +worked into a fair-sized hole. Fill this with rich stuff nearly to the +top, and over it either put the plant or sow seed. A heavy top-dressing +round each stem is also desirable, and the application of copious +supplies of water will carry the nourishment down to the roots. +Sub-tropical plants are only a source of disappointment under niggardly +treatment, but they amply repay all the care and generosity which a +liberal hand may lavish upon them. The plants will need the support of +stakes to save them from injury in a high wind. + +SAINTPAULIA + +Greenhouse perennial + +A very remarkable perennial, only four inches high, obtained from +eastern tropical Africa. The plant has fleshy leaves, and the flowers, +which are produced in clusters, somewhat resemble the Violet, but are +much larger. Saintpaulia makes a beautiful table ornament, and a row of +pot plants in full bloom forms a charming margin in conservatories, +either for a stage or on the ground. The seedlings flower freely in +about six months from date of sowing, and continue in bloom through the +winter. Sowings may be made from January to March, in well-drained pots +placed in a temperature of 60° to 65°. On no account should the soil be +allowed to become dry. Subsequently the plants may be treated as +recommended for Gloxinias. + +SALPIGLOSSIS + +Half-hardy annual + +A highly ornamental half-hardy annual. The finest strains have large, +open flowers, exhibiting extraordinary combinations of colours which +range from the palest sulphur-white to orange, scarlet, and +purple-violet, all being more or less pencilled and veined with some +strong contrasting colour. + +If an early display is wanted, a start should be made at the end of +February or beginning of March, by sowing on a moderate hot-bed. In May +the plants will be ready for flowering quarters. Or sow in April in the +open ground where the plants are to remain, taking care to thin +severely, and the thinnings will be useful for dibbling in +out-of-the-way comers, where they will furnish acceptable material for +table decoration, for which purpose this striking flower is well +adapted. + +Salpiglossis make charming pot plants for the greenhouse and +conservatory. For this purpose seed should be sown in August or +September, and under cool-house treatment the plants will bloom +profusely in the following spring. + +SALVIA + +Hardy annual and half-hardy perennial + +From a genus including 450 species a small number of Salvias have won +deserved popularity for beds and borders. In summer and early autumn +the long spikes of brilliant flowers produced by Fireball and Scarlet +Queen make an extremely attractive display, and _S. patens_ is one of +the most superb pure blue flowers seen in gardens. As a bedding plant +_S. argentea_ is extensively grown for its silvery-white foliage, which +completely covers the ground. These and other perennial varieties may +be sown in pans during February and March for transfer to the open in +May, and the plants need the usual treatment of half-hardy perennials. + +A favourite annual variety is Blue Beard, growing eighteen inches high +and presenting long spikes of bright purple bracts. The annual Salvias +should also be sown in pans in February or March and transplanted in +May; or seed may be sown in the open border during April. + +SCHIZANTHUS + +The Butterfly Flower. Half-hardy annual + +At many leading horticultural displays in recent years masses of +Schizanthus of extraordinary beauty have been exhibited with striking +success. In conservatories, greenhouses, and on dinner-tables the +plants form conspicuous ornaments and they should be freely grown for +general decorative purposes. On special occasions the pots may be +plunged to create a brilliant show of bloom as temporary beds and they +are also extremely attractive in hanging-baskets. + +The usual time for sowing seed to insure fine specimens is the end of +August or early in September. Either well-drained pots or shallow +boxes, filled with a good potting compost, will answer for raising the +seedlings. Sow thinly, on a smooth surface, and cover the seeds with +finely sifted soil. When the young plants appear place the pots or +boxes near the glass where they can have abundance of light and air, so +that from the start the plants may be short and healthy. Seedlings that +are thin and drawn are never worth the space they occupy. Immediately +they are large enough to handle, transfer to shallow boxes, allowing a +space of three inches to each plant. The compost to consist of sound +loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions, with the addition of +sufficient coarse sand to render the mixture porous. For two or three +days keep the boxes in a frame, which must remain closed and be shaded +from sunshine until the seedlings are established, but remove the +shading whenever possible; then give air freely, and on attaining a +height of three inches the first stopping may be done. A fortnight +later the plants will be ready for pots of the 60-size. Treat them as +nearly hardy as weather may permit. Stop the shoots a second time when +about six inches high, with the object of forming bushy plants capable +of yielding a bountiful bloom. When the 60-pots are filled with roots +transfer to the 48-size, and in due time the final shift should be into +pots of the 24-size. Larger pots may, of course, be employed for very +fine specimens. The compost for this final shift ought to consist of +two parts of rich loam, one part of leaf-soil, and one part of +thoroughly decayed manure; the addition of sharp sand will be +necessary. The stems to be tied out to stakes in good time to prevent +injury. Just before the flowering period and while the plants are +actually in bloom, weak liquid manure, instead of water, once or twice +a week will be beneficial. A high temperature is not required, even in +the winter months, to maintain Schizanthus in healthy condition. From +35° to 40° is all the heat they need; in fact, it is only requisite to +keep frost at bay, and this near approach to hardy treatment will +result in fine robust plants. + +The Schizanthus may also be sown during March and April in pans placed +in gentle heat, the seedlings being potted on for flowering in the +conservatory or they may be put out in the open border. Towards the end +of April or in May seed may be sown out of doors. + +One point in the successful culture of Schizanthus should never be +forgotten. The roots must not be allowed to become pot-bound. Where +this is permitted at any stage of growth it is fatal to the development +of a handsome show of bloom. + +SENECIO ELEGANS + +Jacobea. Hardy annual + +Among the double varieties, the crimson, purple, rose and white +Senecios take the lead for beauty and usefulness. They are remarkably +accommodating plants, adapted for beds or the greenhouse. Sow early in +pans or boxes, give the seedlings liberal treatment, and when bedded +out the plants will produce myriads of bright flowers, until frost puts +a stop to them. Any good soil which does not become pasty will suit, +and full exposure to sunshine is essential to the production of a rich +display of colour. In March or April seed may safely be sown in the +open ground. + +The Tall Single Bright Rose Jacobea is invaluable as a cut flower for +table decoration under artificial light. It rivals the Star Cineraria +in form and, being a hardy annual, it may be grown with the utmost +ease. + +SILENE + +Catchfly. Hardy annual + +Not one of the hardy annuals has established a better claim to be sown +in autumn than the Silenes. Alone, they make a very attractive display, +and they can be used with especial effect in beds planted with +Daffodils, Hyacinths, and Tulips. While the Daffodils are in full +beauty the Silenes clothe the ground with a carpet of green, and after +the foliage of the bulbs has been cut off or pinned down the Silenes +furnish a fresh display of floral beauty in advance of the summer +bedders. + +Silenes do not thrive on heavy damp soils, but the difficulty can be +surmounted by keeping the plants in pans or boxes under a cold frame +until growing weather sets in. The plants do very well in loam, and +best of all in a dry sandy soil. The spring sowing should be made in +March or April; the autumn sowing in August or early in September. + +SOLANUM + +Annual and perennial; half-hardy + +Solanums are of importance, some as greenhouse plants, and others as +sub-tropical bedders. They are somewhat tender in constitution, and +must have good cultivation in a light rich soil. A sharp look-out for +red spider is necessary, for this pest is very partial to Solanums. +March is early enough to sow the seed, but for ordinary purposes April +is to be preferred. By the middle of June the plants should be strong +enough to put out, and with genial weather will make rapid progress. +Those grown for their berries may be sown from February onwards, as it +is important to secure bushy plants before they begin to flower, and an +early start insures an early ripening of the bright, handsome fruit. + +STATICE + +Sea Lavender. Hardy and half-hardy annuals and hardy perennial + +It would be difficult to decide whether the Sea Lavenders are more +highly valued as border flowers or as cut material for use indoors. +Certain it is that the light and graceful sprays of delicately coloured +flowers are indispensable for house decoration, either when freshly cut +or when dried for mixing with Helichrysums and other everlastings in +winter. Yet Statice are very attractive when growing in the border, the +varieties of branching habit giving a long-continued display of +beautiful flowers. + +The half-hardy varieties should be sown from January to March in pans +placed on bottom heat. When large enough prick off the seedlings into +boxes of good light soil, and gradually harden off in readiness for +planting out in May. The hardy annual kinds also answer best when +started in pans during March or April and transferred to the open in +due course. Seed of the hardy perennial varieties should be sown in a +nice light compost any time from April to July. Put out the plants into +flowering positions when they have attained a suitable size. + +When grown on in pots, the half-hardy sorts make exceedingly pretty +subjects for house or conservatory decoration. + +STOCK + +Mathiola. Annual and biennial half-hardy + +From the botanical standpoint Stocks comprise two main classes—the +Annual and the Biennial. So accommodating as to treatment is this +extensive family, however, that by selecting suitable sorts and sowing +at appropriate periods, it is not difficult to obtain a succession of +these delightful flowers the year through. With this object in view, +our notes are divided into four sections covering the cycle of the +seasons, as follows: Summer-flowering, or Ten-week; Intermediate +varieties, for autumn-flowering; Winter-flowering; and +Spring-flowering. + +Summer-flowering, or Ten-week Stocks.—These annual varieties include a +wonderful range of colours, as well as considerable diversity in the +habit of growth. For their brightness, durability, and fragrance they +are deservedly popular. It is usual to sow the seed under glass from +the middle to the end of March. Pans or shallow boxes, filled with +sweet sandy soil, make the best of seed-beds, and it may be well to say +at once that no plants pay better for care and attention than the +subjects now under consideration. Sow thinly, that the plants may have +room to become stout while yet in the seed-bed, and from the very +outset endeavour to impart a hardy constitution by giving air freely +whenever the weather is suitable. This does not mean that they are to +be subjected to some cutting blast that will cripple the plants beyond +redemption, but that no opportunity should be lost of partial or entire +exposure whenever the atmosphere is sufficiently genial to benefit +them. If a cold frame on a spent hot-bed can be spared, it may be +utilised by pricking off the seedlings into it, or the pans and boxes +may simply be placed under its protection. The nearer the seedlings can +be kept to the glass, the less will be the disposition to become leggy. +In transplanting to the open ground, it is worth some trouble to induce +each plant to carry a nice ball of soil attached to its roots. + +On light, friable land, Ten-week Stocks can be successfully grown from +sowings made in the open about the end of April. The character of the +season must be some guide to the time chosen, and the sowing in this +case should be rather thicker than in the seed-pans. Should the seed +germinate well, severe thinning will have to be practised as growth +demands. This method of culture entirely prevents loss by mildew, which +so often proves fatal to young transplanted seedlings. It is difficult +to make the soil too good for them, and there is no comparison between +Stocks grown on a poor border and those grown in luxuriance. Some +growers make a little trench for each row of seed, and this affords a +certain degree of protection from cutting winds, and also forms a +channel for water when there is a necessity for administering it. In a +showery season, the plants will appear in about twelve days, but in dry +weather it will be longer, and one or more gentle morning waterings may +be necessary to bring them up. The distance between the rows must be +determined by the variety. Nine inches is sufficient for the dwarf +sorts; twelve or fifteen inches will not be too much for medium and +tall kinds. + +Slugs may be kept off by a dusting of soot or wood-ashes, and some +precaution must also be adopted to prevent birds from disturbing the +seed-bed. + +Here it may be well to mention a fact which is not always remembered, +although the knowledge of it is generally assumed. Seed can only be +saved from single flowers, but those who have made a study of the +business find little difficulty in selecting plants, and treating them +in such a manner that seed obtained from them will produce a large +percentage of double blossoms in the following generation. But the +experience of the most skilled growers has not enabled them to save +seed which will result entirely in double-flowering plants; and this is +scarcely to be regretted, for the perpetuation of the race is dependent +on single flowers. In keeping the various colours true there is one +very awkward fact. Certain sorts invariably produce a difference in +colour between the double and single flowers. + +Intermediate Stocks form a valuable succession to the Summer-flowering, +or Ten-week varieties. From seed sown in gentle heat in February or +March, the plants usually commence flowering when the earlier varieties +are beginning to fade, and will continue to bloom until winter sets in. +It is also easy to grow the Intermediate section in pots for spring +decoration, if the protection of a house or pit can be given during the +winter to preserve them from frost. A simple plan is to sow in August +or early in September five or six seeds in 48-sized pots. Thin to three +plants in each, and of course a larger pot with more plants can be used +when desirable. Give air whenever possible, and water regularly. There +is no need for artificial heat; indeed, it is not well to hurry the +plants in any way. A good top-dressing of rich soil is advisable before +flowering, and as the buds appear, manure water, weak at first, but +gradually increased in strength, may be given once a week until in full +bloom. + +Winter-flowering Stocks.—During the winter months Stocks afford an +immense amount of pleasure. They are particularly welcome at Christmas, +and to insure flowering plants at that season of the year suitable +varieties, such as Christmas Pink or Beauty of Nice, should be +selected, and a start made in June. As soon as the first leaf is +attained, prick off three seedlings in a three-inch pot; place in a +cool frame under a north wall, keeping the light off all day until they +are ready for another shift into six-inch pots. Use three parts of good +yellow loam and one part of leaf-soil—no sand. Pot firmly and restore +to the frame until the plants start growing, when they may be removed +to the greenhouse. Manure water, not too strong, once a week is +beneficial, and pure water should be given sparingly. Keep near the +glass and ventilate freely. Further sowings made in July and August +will extend the supply of flowers. + +Spring-flowering Stocks, which include the popular Brompton strain, +come into flower in spring and early summer. Although in some seasons +it may answer to sow where the plants are required to bloom, the +practice is too precarious to be risked generally. A safer method is to +sow in seed-pans in June or July. Place these under shelter until the +plants are an inch high, then stand them in the open for a week before +transplanting. Have ready a piece of freshly-dug soil, and on a dull +day put them out at eight to twelve inches apart. If the growth is too +rapid during September, it may be advisable to lift them and plant +again, for the winter must not find them soft and succulent. There +should be hard stems and sturdy growth to carry them through the cold +weather. In districts that are specially unfavourable it may be +necessary to pot each plant singly in the 60-size, and plunge these in +ashes in a cold frame, or under the shelter of a south wall, until +severe weather is past, and they can then be turned out into the +borders. + +STREPTOCARPUS + +Cape Primrose. Tender perennial + +The hybrids are a very striking race, invaluable for greenhouse and +conservatory decoration, producing a continuous succession of large +trumpet-shaped flowers, embracing colours ranging from pure white, +through lavender, purple, violet, rose, and red, to rich rosy-purple. +Sow very thinly from January to March in well-drained pots, and a +dusting of fine soil will sufficiently cover the seed. Place the pots +in a temperature of 60° to 65°, and take care that the soil is not +allowed to become dry. Prick off the seedlings when large enough to +handle, keeping them in the temperature named until the final potting. +When established they thrive with ordinary attention in a greenhouse, +and they winter well in a temperature ranging between 40° and 50°. Seed +sown in January and February will produce plants which will come into +bloom during the following June and July. + +Streptocarpus Wendlandii is a singularly interesting variety. Only one +immense leaf is produced, which frequently attains a width of two feet, +with a proportionate length. This leaf is reflexed, completely hiding +the pot on one side, and from its midrib scapes of elegant violet-blue +flowers with white throat are thrown up to a height of eighteen inches. +The seeds should be sown in a warm greenhouse early in the year. The +plants will begin to flower in the winter and continue in bloom for +about six months. The temperature which is suitable for Gloxinias will +answer for this plant also. + +SUNFLOWER + +Helianthus annuus. Hardy annual + +The utility of the Sunflower has been alluded to in a former page. Here +we have only to regard the plant in its ornamental character, as an +occupant of the shrubbery or flower border. + +In addition to the common species, there are several strains which are +adapted for special purposes. The dwarf varieties grow about three to +four feet high, and produce fine heads of bloom. The ‘giant’ attains +the enormous height of eight or ten feet in a favourable season, and +the flowers are of immense size. The double strain generally reaches +six feet in height, and is valuable for its fine show of colour and +enduring quality. There is no difficulty, therefore, in making a +selection to suit the requirements of any border. The Sunflower can +also be employed in one or more rows to make a boundary or to hide an +unsightly fence, and some growers use it as a screen for flowers which +will not bear full sunshine. + +Seed may be sown very early in the season, and the plants can be +brought forward in the manner usual with half-hardy annuals, but there +is no necessity for this mode of growing them. Sow in April or May +where the plants are to flower, on soil which has been abundantly +manured to a depth of eighteen inches, and they will bloom in good +time. To maintain the rapid growth, water must not be stinted in dry +weather. + +SWEET PEA + +Lathyrus odoratus. Hardy climbing annual + +The history of the Sweet Pea can be traced back for more than two +hundred years; and it is almost as fascinating as an exhibition of the +flowers. Recent improvements in this highly popular subject include an +amazing diversity of colours, a marked increase in the number of +flowers on each stem, and an extraordinary enlargement in their size. A +modern list may run into hundreds, but those who grow every known +variety find that there are many close resemblances, arising no doubt +from simultaneous introductions by hybridists who have experimented on +similar lines. Enthusiastic growers of Sweet Peas are no longer content +with a limited number of named varieties, for it is obvious that in +competitions where fifty or a hundred bunches have to be staged for +certain prizes, a large and representative collection must be grown. +For general garden decoration, however, and to provide sprays for the +adornment of homes, the Giant-flowered class, offered under colours +only, will continue to be extremely popular. + +The change in character and the increased usefulness of Sweet Peas have +necessitated a revolution in the methods of culture. The freer growth +and more robust habit demand greater space than was formerly allowed. +Instead of crowded rows of attenuated plants, producing a meagre return +of small flowers, poor in colour, it is now the practice to prepare the +ground by deep trenching and liberal manuring, and to give every plant +ample space for full development both in rows and in clumps. In the +ensuing paragraphs we outline the cultural routine which should be +followed as nearly as possible by those who desire to insure a +long-continued supply of the very finest flowers. But where +circumstances do not permit of these recommendations being adopted in +full, the details may be modified according to the materials at command +and the requirements of the cultivator. + +It is usual to commence the preparation of the ground in autumn. +Trenching is of paramount importance, for the roots of the Sweet Pea +require a considerable depth of good soil in which to ramify for the +support of robust healthy plants capable of producing handsome flowers +over a long season. Where the surface soil is shallow, care must be +exercised to avoid bringing uncultivated subsoil to the top, and it is +well worth incurring a little extra trouble to provide a sufficient +depth of fertile material for full root development. Therefore dig out +a wide trench and place the good top soil on one side. Then remove and +discard the subsoil to a depth of twelve inches and, after breaking up +the bottom of the trench with a fork or pickaxe, replace with an equal +quantity of decayed manure, leaves, old potting soil or any other +suitable stuff that may be on hand. Finally return the top soil to its +original position. + +The use of manure needs discrimination, and in fixing the quantity, as +well as in selecting the most suitable kinds, due consideration must be +given to the character of the soil. For light land, four barrow-loads +of well-rotted farmyard manure per square pole will make an excellent +dressing, but a rather smaller amount will suffice for heavy ground. In +place of farmyard manure an unlimited quantity of leaf-soil, if +obtainable, may be used, and it is also a good plan to dig in any +available green refuse. Garden ground which for some years previously +has been kept in a state of high cultivation by the liberal use of +natural manure will not, as a rule, need further help in this +direction, but it should receive a good dressing of lime. Indeed, any +soil in which Sweet Peas are to be grown should contain not less than +two per cent. of lime. The employment of artificial, as well as +organic, manures is essential in any first-class scheme of cultivation. +But here a word of warning is necessary. Nitrogenous manures in any +form are harmful to the plant when applied in large quantities, and are +liable to predispose it to disease, except on extreme types of sandy +soil. Heavy ground should be dressed with seven pounds of basic slag in +autumn and two pounds of sulphate of potash in spring. On light soils +apply in spring four pounds of superphosphate of lime and two pounds of +sulphate of potash. The quantities stated in each case are sufficient +for a square pole of ground. Wood ashes (in a dry state) are also of +great value, and these should be raked in a little in advance of +planting out. + +The special preparation of the soil just described entails the raising +of plants in pots or boxes in readiness for transfer to the open as +early as weather permits in spring. The finest flowers are undoubtedly +obtained from an autumn sowing, and about the middle of September may +be regarded as the best period for putting in the seed. This early +commencement possesses the advantage of allowing ample time for the +development of sturdy, well-rooted plants, which will not only bloom in +advance of those sown in spring but will remain in flower for an +unusually long period. Sow in light porous soil, and either three-inch +pots, pans or boxes may be used. Place in a cold frame and keep the +lights down until the seeds have germinated, but afterwards the frame +should never be closed except during severe weather. There must be no +misunderstanding on the question of air-giving. The Sweet Pea is almost +hardy, and robust healthy seedlings, grown as nearly as possible under +natural conditions, are wanted. Therefore to subject the plant to +artificial heat will only defeat the object in view. A current of air +should be admitted to the frame day and night, and the lights may be +entirely removed on all favourable occasions. But the seedlings will +need protection from excessive moisture, for if too wet at the roots +they are liable to injury from frost. When four pairs of leaves are +formed, stop each plant once, and after a little further progress has +been made transplant singly into three-inch pots. Keep the pots in the +frame, giving only such protection from hard weather as may be +absolutely necessary, and plant out on the first suitable opportunity. +In the South transplanting may be possible late in February or at the +opening of March, but a month later will be safer in districts north of +the Trent. + +Those who for any reason do not find it convenient to sow in autumn may +start the seed early in the year—from mid-January onwards, according to +the district. The general principles described in the preceding +paragraph apply equally to spring sowings, but it may be well to say +that there must be no attempt to hasten growth by the application of a +high temperature. A frame will afford all the protection necessary, and +even a box covered with glass and placed in a sheltered spot will be +found serviceable for raising seedlings. + +Before planting out, the top soil of the ground prepared in autumn must +be well worked and made friable. The disposition of the plants, and the +method adopted for staking them, will, to a great extent, depend on the +precise purpose for which the flowers are required. For garden +decoration single rows answer well, and the plants should be spaced one +foot apart. Or, if preferred, put out in clumps of three to five +plants, allowing a diameter of from nine to fifteen inches. Carefully +remove the plants from the pots or boxes in which they were raised, +disentangle the roots and shake them quite free from soil. Make a hole +of the necessary depth, and allow the roots to descend into the ground +to their full extent, which may be as much as two feet in the case of +well-grown specimens from autumn-sown seed. Give support immediately +with well-branched twigs, and it is important that the plants be kept +perfectly upright. Finally stake with bushy hazel sticks eight to ten +feet in height, or taller still where the ground has been generously +prepared. + +Long-stemmed flowers free from blemish are essential for show work and +for the highest forms of house decoration, and to insure an adequate +supply over an extended period the following method, which is adopted +by some of the most successful exhibitors, is strongly to be +recommended. The plants are put out in double rows one foot apart, and +spaced a foot apart in the lines. Each plant should carry two shoots +only, both of which must be provided with a rod of bamboo, ash, or +hazel, ten to twelve feet in length. For this double cordon system the +rods will stand six inches apart in the rows, and it is desirable to +make them secure against damage from high winds. Insert a stout pole at +each end of the row, and about seven feet from the ground-level fix to +each pole a substantial wooden crosspiece a little more than a foot in +length. From these cross-pieces tightly stretch strands of wire, to +which securely tie the rods. As growth develops commence disbudding +promptly, regularly remove all laterals and tendrils, and tie each +cordon to its supporting rod with raffia as often as may be necessary. + +After transfer to the open ground the plants must never be allowed to +become dry at the roots. Keep the hoe going between the rows, +especially after the soil has been beaten down by rain. + +The blooming period can be prolonged by the simple expedient of daily +removing the dead or faded flowers. The ripening of only a few +seed-pods speedily puts a stop to flowering. + +In the open ground seed may be sown in spring from February to May, and +successional sowings at intervals of a fortnight will extend the supply +of flowers far into autumnal days. Even where a few clumps only can be +grown it is unwise to depend on a single sowing. Autumn sowings +outdoors are often made in September or October where a warm soil and +favourable situation can be insured. + +Sweet Peas have two principal foes, the slug and the sparrow. Against +the former the usual precautions, such as ashes, old soot, lime, and +various traps, are available; and the latter must by some means be +prevented from doing mischief. After the buds show through the soil, it +is generally too late for the adoption of remedies. Nearly all the +heads will be found nipped off and laid ready for inspection. One could +almost forgive the marauders were food the object, but the birds appear +to commit havoc from pure wantonness, and whole rows are sometimes +destroyed in a single morning. + +Early sprays are so much prized that the practice of flowering Sweet +Peas in pots under glass is yearly increasing, and for this purpose +seed must be sown in August or September; the plants to be kept slowly +moving during the dark days. In February the growth will be more rapid, +but it is important to give the plants the hardiest possible treatment. +In April, if properly managed, there will be a brilliant display. + +The winter-flowering race blooms freely at a still earlier period, +although the plants are less vigorous than other varieties. + +SWEET WILLIAM + +Dianthus barbatus. Hardy biennial + +Sweet William belongs to the same genus as the Pink. The finest strains +produce superb heads of flowers, some of them intensely rich in colour, +while others have a contrasting edge. The new varieties are so marked +an advance on older colours that they have created a fresh interest in +this favourite garden flower. + +In several instances we have advised that biennials and perennials +should be treated as annuals, both on the ground of economy and for the +excellent results obtained by this practice. But the Sweet William is +not amenable to any treatment which reduces the natural period of +growth. + +Seed may be sown in May, June or July for transplanting in autumn, and +the numerous colours afford opportunity of obtaining a great diversity +of splendid effects in beds and borders. + +TOBACCO—_see_ NICOTIANA + +TORENIA + +Greenhouse annual + +Sow in a warm temperature in March or April. Prick off while small into +pots, and subsequently pot the seedlings singly. Any fairly good +compost will suit them. The branches need support, and the plants must +be kept free from green fly. The Torenias make very elegant pot plants, +and they are also well adapted for hanging baskets and other ornamental +contrivances. + +TROPÆOLUM + +Nasturtium, or Indian Cress. Hardy and half-hardy annuals + +The _Tropæolum tuberosum_ is treated under the ‘Culture of Flowering +Bulbs,’ so that here we have only to consider the varieties that are +grown from seed. There are two distinct classes, both widely +cultivated, for the seed is inexpensive, and the plants extremely showy +durable, and easily raised. + +_Tropæolum majus_ is the climbing Nasturtium, or great Indian Cress. +The flower as originally obtained from Peru was a rich orange, marked +with deep reddish-brown, but it has been developed into various shades +of yellow and red, culminating in a tint which is almost black. The +leaves are nearly circular, and are attached to the long footstalks by +the centre instead of at the margin. Loudon fancifully compares the +leaf to a buckler, and the flower to a helmet. The Lobbianum section is +close in habit, with smaller foliage borne on somewhat woolly stems. +All the varieties bloom freely, and constitute a brilliant class of +climbers of great value for brightening the backs of borders or hiding +unsightly objects. After the seeds have been dibbled about an inch deep +in either April or May, the only attention the plants require is to nip +out a straggling shoot occasionally, or prevent a stray branch from +reaching over and smothering some plant which will not endure its +embraces. + +The well-known Canary Creeper (_T. canariense_) is a perfectly distinct +variety, and as a half-hardy annual should be raised under protection +and planted out in May, although sowings in the open ground in April +and May often prove satisfactory. Unlike the others, it needs a rich +soil to insure vigorous growth. When liberally treated the entire plant +will be covered with its bright fairy-like flowers, until frost ends +its career. + +_Tropæolum majus nanum._—The Tom Thumb, or Dwarf varieties, make +excellent bedding plants, blooming far on into the autumn after many of +the regular bedders have faded and become shabby. There is an extensive +choice of colours in reds, yellows, and browns, which come perfectly +true from seed, and all possess the merit of flowering freely on very +poor soil. They grow luxuriantly on rich land, but then the foliage +becomes a mere mask under which the flowers are concealed. There is not +one of the Tom Thumb class that may not be treated as a hardy annual, +and all afford opportunity of making a gorgeous show of colour at a +cost ridiculously disproportionate to the effect obtained. They are +also admirably adapted for pot culture, making shapely plants covered +with bloom for a long period. + +Many of the later introductions in Nasturtium are notable for their +refined and delicate colouring, and are extremely desirable subjects +for the decoration of the dinner-table and small vases in the +drawing-room. + +As the flavour of the flowers and leaves somewhat resembles that of +common Cress, they are frequently used in salads, and are accounted an +excellent anti-scorbutic. The flowers are legitimately employed in +decorating the salad-bowl, because they are not only ornamental but +strictly edible. + +In a green state the seeds of both tall and dwarf varieties make an +excellent pickle which is occasionally used as a substitute for capers. + +VERBENA + +Hardy and half-hardy perennials + +VERBENAS raised from the best strains of seed come true to colour and +the plants are models of health and vigour, and make resplendent beds. +It is of the utmost importance to remember that the Verbena requires +very little of the artificial heat to which it is commonly subjected, +and which fully accounts for the frequency of disease among plants +propagated from cuttings. Seed may be sown in boxes in January, +February, and March, the earlier sowings naturally requiring more heat +than the later ones. As the seedlings become large enough, they should +be potted on and planted out in May, when they will flower throughout +the summer, and far into the autumn. + +Verbenas may also be sown in March or April in boxes, put into a frame, +and if kept moist a lot of plants will appear in about a month. When +large enough these must be carefully lifted and potted. A rich, mellow, +and very sweet soil is needed by the Verbena. Many of the failures that +occur in its cultivation are not only traceable to the coddling of the +plant under glass, but also to the careless way in which it is often +planted on poor worn-out soil that has been cropped for years without +manure, or even the sweetening effects of a good digging. Raising +Verbenas from seed has restored this plant to the list of easily grown +and thoroughly useful flowers for the parterre. + +The hardy perennial _V. venosa_ also comes perfectly true and uniform +from seed. + +VIOLA + +Tufted Pansy. Hardy perennial + +This plant well merits its popularity for use in beds and borders. It +is perfectly hardy, the habit is good, and it continues in bloom for +several months in the year. The treatment prescribed for Pansy is also +suitable for Viola. + +WALLFLOWER + +Cheiranthus Cheiri. Hardy biennial + +Wallflowers are often sown too late. As a result the growth is not +thoroughly matured, and the plants present but a feeble show of bloom. +They should in their season be little mounds of fire and gold, exhaling +a perfume that few flowers can equal in its peculiar freshness. Sow the +seed in May or June, in a sunny place, on rather poor, but sweet and +well-prepared soil favourable to free rooting. When the plants are two +inches high, transplant into rows six inches asunder, allowing three +inches apart in the row, and as soon as the plants overlap transplant +again, six or nine inches apart every way, aiding with water when +needful to help them to new growth. Or lift every other row and every +other plant, leaving the remainder untouched to supply flowers for +cutting. When the beds are cleared of their summer occupants, they may +be filled with the best plants of Wallflower, to afford cheerful green +leafage all through the winter and a grand show of bloom in the spring, +as frost will not hurt the single varieties; but the doubles will not +always endure the rigours of a severe winter. + +Early-flowering Varieties.—By selection and cross-fertilisation an +early-flowering race of Wallflowers has been obtained, and it is now +possible to enjoy for many months of the year a fragrance which has +hitherto been associated exclusively with spring. From a sowing made in +May or June the plants commence flowering in autumn and continue +throughout the winter, unless checked by frost. With the advent of +spring weather, however, they burst into full bloom, making a +delightful display in advance of the ordinary varieties. + +WIGANDIA + +Half-hardy perennial + +This plant is grown for its foliage, and is extensively used in +sub-tropical gardening. The instructions given for raising Ricinus in +heat apply equally to this subject; but it is not wise to rely on an +open-air sowing for a supply of Wigandias. + +ZINNIA + +Zinnia elegans. Half-hardy annual + +THE double varieties of Zinnia have entirely eclipsed the single form +of this flower. They grow to an immense size and are extremely valuable +for beds and borders, the plants remaining in bloom for a considerable +period. Double Zinnias are so varied in colour and beautiful in form +that they deserve to take high rank as exhibition flowers. + +The Zinnia is delicate, and should not be sown too soon. March is quite +early enough to commence operations, and the first week in April will +be none too late for sowing. A compost that suits Asters will answer +admirably for Zinnias. Sow in 4-1/2 inch pots, which should have very +free drainage, and cover the seed thinly with fine soil. Plunge the +pots at once in a temperature of about 60°, when the seed will +germinate quickly, and the plants on attaining one inch in height can +be potted off separately. Place them in a close frame, shade from +sunshine, and when well established, gradually give air and harden off. +It will not be safe to transfer to the open until the first week in +June, unless the position is exceptionally sheltered and the soil very +dry. A shrubbery border is a suitable spot, and the more scorching the +season the finer will be the flowers. There must, however, be shelter +from the wind, for the stems of Zinnias are hollow, and easily damaged +by a storm. + +A satisfactory display of this flower may be obtained without the aid +of heat by sowing in the open ground about the middle of May. Select a +sunny sloping border or bed for sowing, enrich the soil, and make it +fine. Press this down rather firmly, then drop three or four seeds at +intervals of from fifteen to eighteen inches between each group, and +lightly cover them. In due time thin to one plant at each station. If +they thrive the branches will not only meet but overlap, and produce a +grand display. In the event of very dry weather at sowing time the +ground may be watered before the seed is put in, and then be covered +with dry fine soil. + +Zinnias do not transplant well, except as small seedlings. When it is +necessary to undertake the task, choose, if possible, a showery day, +and shade each plant with an inverted flower-pot for a few days, but +take off the pots in the evening. + +Zinnias intended for exhibition must be treated in a more generous +fashion than plants that are grown for border decoration, or for the +sake of yielding cut flowers. The seed may be raised in heat as already +directed, but the border will need to be prepared with special care and +liberality. Should the soil be heavy, it must be reduced to a friable +state during winter. Before the plants are put in, raise the land into +ridges about four or five inches high. Plant on the top of the ridge, +and then an application of soot or lime (not too near to inflict +injury) may be used as a precaution against slugs. In a wet season the +plants will stand a better chance than if put on the flat, and if a +scorching summer comes they will be none the worse for it. As the +flowering time approaches mulch the ground with well-decayed manure. + +The plants must be carefully staked and tied out. It is not merely +necessary to secure the main stem, but the branches should also be +supported, or when weighted with flowers they will be very liable to +give way under a moderate wind. Superfluous branches may be removed, +but not so severely as to start new growth to the detriment of the +flowers. Disbudding also will have to be practised for the highest +class of flowers. Only one bloom should be allowed to develop on each +branch at a time, and this must be protected from sun and rain after it +is about half grown. + +SPRING FLOWERS FROM SEEDS + +It is the spring flowers that perhaps give the greatest charm and +interest to the English garden. Commencing with the flowering trees, +the Almond, Double Peach, _Prunus Pissardi_, and many others, we soon +have the Daffodils, Wallflowers, and Pansies, making the ground bright +and gay after the long dreary winter. It may promote economy in the +production of these brilliant and charming displays if we offer a few +remarks on the employment of spring-flowering plants which can easily +be raised for the purpose from seeds. It will, of course, occur to the +reader that a considerable proportion of the annuals that are usually +sown in autumn are particularly adapted for producing rich and varied +displays in spring. A type of this class is found in the well-known +Erysimum, Orange Gem, one of the cheapest, hardiest, and most +resplendent plants of the kind, cheap enough for the humblest amateur +to employ freely in his borders and beds, and at the same time so +effective in its colouring as to be adapted for the most complex and +highly finished examples of geometric work. Another striking subject is +the Siberian Wallflower (_Cheiranthus Allionii_), so nearly allied to +the Erysimum, Orange Gem, the gorgeous orange flowers adding a fresh +colour to the many new shades given us in recent years by the old +English Wallflower. Among the annuals are several valuable spring +flowers—such as, for example, _Nemophila insignis_, well known for its +lovely blue blossoms, and the white variety, _alba_, of the same; +_Saponaria calabrica,_ exquisite rosy pink; Silene, rose, dwarf rose, +and dwarf white; Virginian Stock, of which the distinct varieties are +remarkably well adapted to form bands and masses of red, white, and +yellow, and also to make a delightful groundwork for enhancing the +splendour of late Tulips; and clumps of Aubrietia, Yellow Alyssum, and +other of the more distinctive plants that are employed in high +colouring in first-class geometric gardening. A list of such plants +will at once indicate that there is a field of enterprise for the +practitioner of spring flower gardening; and while cheap and effective +materials are thus brought into the service, there is no interference +with the later summer bedding, because, if the annuals are well +managed, they will give their plentiful bloom when the garden is most +in need of colour, and may be cleared off in time to make way for the +plants that are generally employed in the summer display and which are +known as ‘bedding plants’ _par excellence_. + +In the management of annuals for an early bloom, it is of great +importance to sow them at a proper time, so that they will be strong +enough to perform what is required of them, and yet not so forward (or +‘winter proud’) as to suffer from the severity of the weather. In the +North the middle of August is none too early for a general sowing in +beds, and in the South the middle of September is none too late. In +some few sheltered spots in the extreme South-West seed may be got in +at the middle of October. As a rule, however, the sowing should be made +as late as those familiar with the soil and climate of the place may +deem safe, the main point being to have the seedlings in a +short-jointed condition, close to the ground, in which state they are +least likely to be injured by frosts. We prefer sowing in drills on a +rather poor soil well broken up to a kindly state, and if the weather +happens to be dry, the drills should be freely watered before the seed +is sown, and there will be no more watering needed. The +after-management is extremely simple: the plants must be kept clear of +weeds, and be slightly thinned out if much crowded, for a few sturdy +specimens are of more value than any number that have run up weak and +wiry through overcrowding. + +In sheltered gardens, having dry chalk or sandy soils, the greater +part, or perhaps the whole stock, might be transplanted from the +seed-beds to the flower-beds and borders as soon as sufficient growth +has been made; but on heavy soils and in exposed places it will be +advisable to delay the removal until March. This part of the work must +be nicely done, the plants being lifted in clumps and no attempt made +to single them, and they must be carefully pressed in and aided with +water, if necessary, to promote a quick ‘taking hold’ of their new +quarters. Those planted out in October on a dry soil will not only +bloom early and gaily, but will be beautiful in their different tints +of green all the winter through. + +But we are not restricted to annuals in seeking for spring flowers from +seeds. With very few exceptions, _all_ the favourite plants of the +spring garden may be grown from seeds at a cost almost infinitesimal as +compared with the raising of named varieties from cuttings and +divisions. Daisies, some of them now almost as large as Asters, are not +only suited to the ribbon border, but make an amazingly brilliant show +when the white, pink, and crimson are planted in masses or in separate +beds. Seedlings flower with far greater freedom and produce much larger +blooms than divided plants, and even after the first few weeks, when +the later flowers become smaller and less perfect in form, a brilliant +display is maintained till late in the summer if the beds are not +wanted for other things. Pansies, which are still unsurpassed for beds +and borders, are easily raised from seed. What is more interesting than +a long row of plants of Perfection Pansy beside the pathway? every step +brings one to a flower of perfect charm, quite different in marking or +colour from any other. The several species and varieties of Arabis, +Alyssum, Aubrietia, Viola, Polyanthus, Iberis, and Forget-me-not also +come quite true from seed. The precision of style and colouring that +results from raising these from cuttings is, of course, admitted; but +in forming masses and ribbon lines, minute individual characters are of +less consequence than a good general effect, and this may be insured by +raising the plants from seed in a manner so cheap and expeditious that +we feel assured spring bedding would be more often seen in its proper +freshness and fulness were the system we now recommend adopted in place +of the tedious one of multiplication by offsets and cuttings. + +Wallflowers cannot be grown in too great numbers in any garden, for +either their delightful perfume or charming colour effect. The striking +displays to be seen in some of our public parks and on seaside fronts +have done much to popularise this old favourite flower. Since the first +edition of this book was issued, many new and remarkable colours in +Wallflowers have been introduced, among the last, but by no means +least, being the Fire King and Orange Bedder. It is by the blending of +the colours that the most telling effects can be produced. Probably +Blood Red, a very inadequate name, and Cloth of Gold will always be the +most favourite combination, and when planted together one sets off the +other to a degree little thought of when these varieties are grown +separately. Purple and the other yellows (Faerie Queene and Monarch) +also make a pleasing bed. Fire King and Orange Bedder should be grown +in masses, separately or together, and when seen in the late afternoon +or early evening their vivid and gorgeous colouring is almost +unsurpassed by any other flower. The early-flowering Wallflowers will, +in mild winters, bloom from January till April, or even as early as +Christmas. + +It should not be forgotten that these biennial and perennial plants +require more time to prepare themselves for flowering than do the +annuals. If sown in August they may not bloom at all the next season, +or the bloom may be late and insignificant. But if sown in May and June +they have a long season of growth before winter sets in, and at the +turn of spring the plants will be matured and strongly set for bloom. + +The sowing of biennial and perennial plants for a display of spring +flowers must be carefully done. The ground should be moderately rich +and quite mellow through being well broken up; in other words, a good +seed-bed must be prepared. If the weather is dry, the drills should be +watered before the seed is sown; and in the event of a drought, the +young plants must have the aid of water to keep them going through the +summer. The seed should be sown thinly, and, as soon as the plants are +large enough, they should be thinned out if at all crowded, and the +thinnings can be planted in rows and shaded for a while. As a rule, the +whole of the work will be comprised in sowing, thinning, and weeding. +In average seasons they will not require watering, and in this matter +alone will be seen the advantage of raising from seeds instead of +cuttings. + +Ordinary care, with such plants as we have named, will insure a +splendid display of spring flowers; and they are worth whatever +attention may be necessary to promote complete and early development. +It may happen that plants from early sowings will show a few flowers in +autumn if neglected. This is easily prevented, to the great advantage +of the plants, by the simple process of ‘stopping’ or nipping out the +points of the leading shoots to cause the production of side shoots. If +a sturdy growth is thus secured, and the plants are transferred to the +flower-beds in October, the result will justify the labour. + +Practical gardeners will not need to be informed that the system we now +propose is capable of many applications and expansions; but it may be +suggested to amateurs who lament the dreary aspect of their beds and +borders in the month of May and early part of June, that the plants we +recommend for the formation of masses in the geometric garden are +equally well adapted to form beautiful clumps and sheets on borders, +banks, and rockeries, as well as in many instances to serve as a +groundwork to Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, and other splendid hardy +spring flowers. + +Sweet Peas deserve to be considered separately. These flowers are now +so varied and exquisitely beautiful that they never appear in the +garden too early. From autumn sowings not only are the most forward +blooms obtained, but for size and intensity of colour the flowers are +unsurpassed by the later displays from spring sowings. + + + + +THE CULTURE OF FLOWERING BULBS + + +Our popular flowering bulbs are obtained from many lands; they are +exceedingly diversified in character, and they bloom at different +periods of the year. Each variety has a value of its own, and answers +to some special requirement in its proper season under glass or in the +open ground. In the darkest winter days we prize the glow of Tulips and +Hyacinths for brightening our homes. And bleak days are not all past +when Aconites and Snowdrops sparkle in beds and borders. The Anemones +follow in March, and during the lengthening days of spring there are +sumptuous beds of Hyacinths, Narcissi, and Tulips. When high summer +begins to decline we have stately groups of Gladioli and many beautiful +Lilies in the shrubbery borders. + +Not least among the merits of Dutch Bulbs is the ease with which they +can be forced into flower at a period of the year when bright blossoms +are particularly precious, and they are equally available for the +grandest conservatory or the humblest cottage window. They are +attractive singly in pots or vases, or they can be arranged in splendid +banks and groups for the highest decorative purposes. Another advantage +is that bulbs endure treatment which would be fatal to many other +flowers. They can be grown in small pots, or be almost packed together +in boxes or seed-pans; and when near perfection they may be shaken out +and have the roots washed for glasses, ferneries, and small aquaria; or +they can be replanted close together in sand, and covered with green +moss. Their hardiness, too, permits of their being grown and +successfully flowered without the least aid from artificial heat. Small +beds and borders may be made brilliant with these flowers, and the +number of bulbs that can be planted in a very limited space is somewhat +astonishing to a novice. Unlike many other subjects, bulbs may be +rather crowded without injury to individual specimens. + +For the decoration of windows no other flowers can compare with Dutch +Bulbs in variety and brilliancy of colour. Some of them are not +particularly long-lived, and this need occasion no regret, for it +affords opportunity of making constant changes in the character and +colour of the miniature exhibition, which may easily be extended over +many weeks. And a really beautiful display is within reach of those who +have not a scrap of garden in which to bring an ordinary plant to +perfection. Unused attics and lead flats can, with a little skill and +attention in the case of bulbs, be made to answer the purpose which +pits and greenhouses serve for many of our showy plants. Some of the +most attractive flowering plants cannot be successfully grown in large +centres of population, but bulbs will produce handsome blossoms even in +smoky towns. + +We do not recommend the attempt to grow bulbs in the actual +window-boxes. It is seldom entirely satisfactory. They should be +treated in the manner advised under the several varieties in the +following pages, and just as the colours are becoming visible, a +selection can be made from pots or boxes for crowding closely in the +ornamental arrangements for the window. When the first occupants show +signs of fading, others can be brought forward to fill their places, +and this process may be repeated until the stock is exhausted. Winter +Aconites, Snowdrops, Squills, and Glory of the Snow furnish the +earliest display; these to be followed by Crocuses, Tulips, Hyacinths, +and the many forms of the great Narciss family, until spring is far +advanced. + +The secret of their accommodating nature lies in the fact that within +the Hyacinth or Tulip every petal of the coming flower is already +stored. During the five or six years of its progressive life the +capacities of the bulb have been steadily conserved, and we have but to +unfold its beauty, aiming at short stout growth and intensity of +colour. Of course there is an immense difference in the quality of +bulbs, and they necessarily vary according to the character of the +season. The most successful growers cannot insure uniformity in any one +variety year after year, because the seasons are beyond human control. +But those who regularly visit the bulb farms can obtain the finest +roots of the year, although it may be necessary to select from many +sources. + +Such bulbs as Lilies, Iris, Montbretia, Hyacinthus, and Alstroemeria +suffer no deterioration after the first year’s flowering. Indeed, it +will be the cultivator’s fault if they do not increase in number and +carry finer heads of bloom in succeeding years. As outdoor subjects +some of them are not yet appreciated at their full value. Magnificent +as _Lilium auratum_ and _L. lancifolium_ must ever be in +conservatories, they exhibit their imposing proportions to greater +advantage, and their wealth of perfume is far more acceptable, when +grown among handsome shrubs in the border. Very little attention is +needed to bring them up year after year in ever-increasing loveliness. + +Growing Bulbs in Moss-fibre.—A most interesting method of growing bulbs +is to place them in bowls and jardinières filled with prepared +moss-fibre, and far better results for home decoration may be obtained +in this way than by using ordinary potting soil in vases, &c. For this +system of culture no drainage is necessary, and the bowls and vases +which are specially made for the purpose are not pierced with the usual +holes for the escape of water. The receptacles are non-porous and may +be placed on tables and columns, or they can be employed in halls and +corridors without the slightest risk of injury. The fibre is perfectly +clean to handle, odourless, and remains sweet for an indefinite period. + +Vases of any kind may be used, provided they are non-porous, but the +bulbs to be planted in them should be of a suitable size. For quite +small jardinières, white and purple Crocuses, Scillas, Snowdrops, and +Grape Hyacinths are available, also the smaller varieties of Narcissi. +Larger vases will accommodate Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c. It is +better not to mix different kinds of bulbs in one bowl unless +simultaneous flowering can be insured. The specially prepared fibre +needs only to be moistened before use. Having selected suitable +receptacles for the bulbs to be grown, place a few pieces of charcoal +at the bottom of each bowl. Then cover the charcoal with one to three +inches of moistened fibre according to the depth of the bowl, placing +the bulbs in positions so that their tips reach to within half-inch of +the rim. The spaces between and around the bulbs to be filled with +moistened fibre, carefully firmed in by hand. The bulbs will require +practically no attention for the first few weeks and may be stood in a +warm, airy position, but on no account must they be shut up in a close +cupboard. If the fibre has been properly moistened there will be no +need to give water until the shoots are an inch or so long, but the +fibre must not be allowed to go dry, or the flower-buds become ‘blind.’ +The surface of the fibre should always look moist, but if too much +water has been given the bowl may be held carefully on its side so that +the surplus water can drain away. As the growth increases more water +will be required and all the light possible must be given to insure +sturdy foliage. This fibre also answers admirably instead of water for +Hyacinths grown in glasses, but care should be taken to fill the +glasses as lightly as possible with the compost; if crammed in tightly +the root growth is liable to lift the bulbs out of position. + +ACHIMENES + +Showy stove bulbs remarkable for their beauty. Given a sufficiency of +heat, the cultivation is of the easiest nature, for they grow rapidly +and flower freely, if potted in sandy peat, and kept in a warm +greenhouse or the coolest part of a stove, in a somewhat humid +atmosphere. It needs only the simplest management to have these plants +in bloom at almost any season of the year, for the bulbs may be kept +dormant for a considerable length of time without injury, and may be +started into growth as required to keep up a long succession of +flowers. They are occasionally well grown in common frames over +hot-beds. For suspended baskets Achimenes are invaluable. + +AGAPANTHUS + +In favoured districts on the South coast this noble plant succeeds +admirably if planted out between September and March in a rich, deep, +moist loam, either in full sun or in partial shade. When grown in pots +it requires a strong loamy soil, with plenty of manure, and throughout +the summer the pots should be allowed to stand in pans of water. As the +Agapanthus is a gross-feeding plant, it should be re-potted annually in +autumn, and be wintered in a cool pit or frame. In transferring to new +pots a little care must be taken to avoid injuring the mass of fleshy +roots. + +ALLIUM + +The _Allium neapolitanum_ is the finest white-flowered variety, and is +exceedingly valuable for bouquets and vase decoration. The large umbels +of blossoms are of the purest white. It is one of the earliest +spring-flowering bulbs, and, although quite hardy, it comes forward +quickly and easily in a cool house. + +ALSTROEMERIA + +An elegant plant which belongs to the nearly hardy group referred to in +the notice of Ixia. In autumn it may be safely planted out in almost +any part of the United Kingdom, provided it is planted nine inches +deep, and can have a sunny position on a dry soil, for damp is more +hurtful to it than frost. As a pot plant it is comparatively useless, +but if allowed to remain several years in a dry border, a large clump +of any of the varieties presents a brilliant appearance when in flower. + +AMARYLLIS + +See remarks under Lilies at page 340. + +ANEMONE + +Windflower + +Our observations on this flower will be limited to the tuberous +varieties; but even with this restriction, the range of form and colour +is exceedingly wide. The Anemone is an accommodating plant, and can be +successfully flowered either in pots or in beds, at the option of the +cultivator. + +The most natural place for it is near shady woodland walks, where it +can be seen to the greatest advantage. But it is also a splendid +subject for masses in the mixed border, or in front of shrubberies; and +alone in beds it makes a brilliant and lasting show. For all the +purposes of garden decoration to which the Crocus, Hyacinth, and Tulip +are applied, the Windflower is equally well adapted. We do not advise +planting singly, but the Anemone answers admirably in lines, groups, or +beds, and the colours admit of numberless harmonies and contrasts. + +The commoner Anemones need only to be planted about three inches deep, +with the eyes upwards, at any time between September and March, and +they will require little or no attention afterwards. Under trees, +instead of planting in a formal pattern, it is worth while to put them +in with some attempt at natural grouping, and not too close +together—say from six inches to a foot apart. In such positions they +may be left undisturbed for years; and if the soil happens to be a good +sandy loam, they will thrive and increase. In masses or beds within the +garden, however, a richer effect is wanted, and the distance between +the roots should not exceed from four to six inches. + +A choice collection of roots is worth more care, and florists are +accustomed to prepare the beds for their reception with fastidious +exactness. The soil, if not considered suitable, is taken out to the +depth of two feet, and is replaced by a rich and specially prepared +compost. Although the individual flowers produced by this method are +generally very fine, and the total effect of the bed is exceedingly +beautiful, yet the truth must be confessed that for ordinary gardening +the system is extravagant and unnecessary. As a hobby, it is, of +course, justifiable enough; but Anemones of high quality can be grown +by a much simpler mode of procedure. One deep digging there certainly +should be, and a layer of manure at the bottom of each trench is sound +treatment, for it supplies the roots with food and a cool subsoil. Poor +land should also be enriched by incorporating a dressing of decayed +manure as the work proceeds. Subsequently one or two light surface +forkings will help to make the bed mellow. A rough plan, showing the +name and position of every root, will be a safer record than labelling +in the usual way, and it also prevents the disfigurement of the bed. +There should be a distance of six inches between the roots; and they +may be put in singly by means of the trowel, or in drills drawn three +inches deep. The former method is generally adopted for groups; but to +insure regularity in flowering the planting must be uniform in depth. +For beds, drills are more reliable, and they are speedily made. + +The time of planting determines to a considerable extent the date of +flowering; and, as the roots may be put in during autumn, winter, and +early spring, it is easy to secure a succession of Anemones from +January until May. But this flower is of so much more value early in +the year than at a later period, when many other subjects brighten the +garden, that it is scarcely worth while to plant so late as March. + +The Anemone is well worth growing in pots, both for its foliage and +flowers. It does not resent forcing to the same extent as the +Ranunculus; nevertheless, cool treatment is almost essential to do it +full justice. The potting should be done in batches to insure a +succession of flowers, and the first lot may be put in at the end of +August, or beginning of September. They should have the benefit of +really good soil; a mixture of leaf-mould and loam, with the addition +of a little powdered charcoal, will suit them exactly. In preparing the +pots, place a layer of light manure above the crocks, which will assist +the drainage and benefit the plants. Then fill with compost to within +two inches of the top, and lay in the roots; add soil to a level with +the rim, and press lightly down. The strongest roots should, of course, +be selected for potting, and it will need more than a hasty glance to +put them in with the eyes upwards. One or more roots may be planted in +each pot, according to the size of the latter. + +The early plantings can be placed in any warm position out of doors, +such as under a south wall; but after the middle of October remove to a +cold pit, or on to the greenhouse stage. Watering is all the attention +they will require, and of this there must be no stint, especially +during the blooming period. A high temperature at any stage is +needless, and if they are just kept out of the reach of frost they will +take excellent care of themselves. + +Anemones are adapted for many decorative purposes; they make capital +window plants, and their sharply cut foliage is very ornamental in the +drawing-room or on the dinner-table. + +BABIANA + +Babianas are delicately constituted, but extremely elegant plants when +well grown. Though far from showy, they appeal to the educated eye for +appreciation of their blue and purple oculate flowers. The culture is +the same as for the Ixia, and we incline strongly to the practice of +keeping the bulbs at least two seasons in the same pots. + +BEGONIA, TUBEROUS-ROOTED + +Few flowers have a greater claim on the attention of horticulturists +than the Tuberous-rooted Begonia, either for the ease with which it can +be grown, or for the many valuable purposes to which the plant may be +applied. It can be flowered at any time from February until October, +and is available for all kinds of indoor decoration, and also for +growing in the open ground during the summer months. + +Instead of allowing the plants to be rudely dried off, it is worth a +little trouble to reduce them slowly to the dormant state by gradually +withholding water. They should still be retained in pots, which may be +stored under a thick layer of ashes or dry peat in any cellar, frame, +or shed where the thermometer stands pretty uniformly at about 50°. The +store should also be dry, for damp is quite as injurious to these roots +as cold. Generally speaking, it may be said that any store which is +safe for Dahlias will also preserve Tuberous-rooted Begonias. + +After the winter’s rest the bulbs are invariably saucer-shaped, and in +the event of their being watered before growth has commenced, +sufficient water will remain in the hollow to destroy the bulb. This +peculiarity makes it dangerous to start the plant before activity is +evident. In January or February, as the bulbs show signs of life, pot +them almost on the surface of a rich loamy soil, and employ the +smallest pots possible. Nurse them with a little care in a warm place +for about ten days, and they should then be very gradually hardened. A +regular system of potting on will be necessary until the final size is +reached; and at each operation the plants should be inserted rather +deeper than before. If re-potting is deferred too long, the foliage +will turn yellow—a sure sign that the plant is starving. No flowers +should be allowed in the early stages of growth, and this rule is +imperative if fine specimens are wanted; but when the plants are +transferred just as the pots are full of roots, there will be little +disposition to bloom prematurely. While growing, the Tuberous Begonia +delights in a humid atmosphere, but this should be avoided after +flowering has commenced. When sticks are inserted for tying out the +flowers, the bulbs must not be wounded. + +The erect-growing varieties are valuable for low conservatory stages, +and they form splendid groups in corners of drawing-rooms. The drooping +kinds are seen to advantage on brackets, shelves, and in suspended +baskets; and the short-jointed plants of the drooping class are +specially adapted for rockeries and beds. They must not be put into the +open until the danger of a nipping east wind is past. The early part of +June is generally about the right time. + +In the autumn it is usual to lift and pot the plants, although in mild +districts, and in a light soil, they may safely be left out all the +winter under the shelter of a heap of ashes or decayed manure. In beds +this plan is scarcely worth adoption, because it leaves the ground bare +for several months; but where Begonias are grown in the reserve border +to furnish a supply of flowers for cutting, it may be a considerable +advantage to leave them until the following year. + +A word is necessary as to soil. The Begonia is a gross feeder, and to +develop its fine qualities there must be a liberal employment of +manure. As a matter of fact, it is scarcely possible to make the soil +too rich for this flower. + +CHIONODOXA + +Glory of the Snow + +The varied blue tints of the Chionodoxa, its more open blossoms, and +larger size, distinguish this flower from its older and justly prized +rival, the Scilla. Indeed, the Chionodoxa is exquisitely beautiful, and +of great value for pot culture, beds, or borders. Five bulbs may be +grown in a 48-sized pot, and in the border not less than half a dozen +should be planted in a group. Employed as a single or double line, it +also produces a striking bit of colouring. The bulbs should be planted +in autumn four inches deep, the distance between being not more than +three inches. Any ordinary garden soil will grow this flower, and it is +advisable to allow the bulbs to remain undisturbed for several years, +as the effect will be the greater in each succeeding spring. + +CROCUS + +This brilliant harbinger of spring will thrive in any soil or +situation, but to be brought to the highest possible perfection it +should be grown in an open bed or border of deep, rich, dry sandy loam. +The bulbs should be planted during September, October, and November. If +kept out of the ground after the end of the year they will be seriously +damaged, and however carefully planted, will not flower in a +satisfactory manner. Plant three inches deep in lines, clumps, or +masses, as taste may suggest, putting the bulbs two inches apart. If +convenient, let them remain undisturbed two or three years, and then +take them up and plant again in well-prepared and liberally manured +soil. A bed of mixed Crocuses has a pleasing appearance, but in +selecting bulbs for the geometric garden it is more effective to employ +distinct colours, reserving the yellow for the exterior parts of the +design to define its boundaries, and using the blue and the white in +masses and bands within. In districts where sparrows attack the +flowers, they may be deterred from doing mischief by stretching over +the beds a few strands of black thread, which will not interfere with +the beauty of the display, and will terrify the sparrows for a +sufficient period to save the flowers. + +The named varieties are invaluable for pot and frame culture, and to +force for decorative purposes; for though the individual flowers are +short-lived, the finest bulbs yield a long succession of bloom, and in +character Crocuses are quite distinct from all other flowers of the +same early season. When grown in pots and baskets, the bulbs should be +placed close together to produce a striking effect. A light, rich soil +is desirable, but they may be flowered in a mixture of charcoal and +moss, or in fibre, or moss alone. When required in quantity for +ornamental baskets and similar receptacles, it is wise to plant them in +shallow boxes filled with rotten manure and leaf-mould, and to lift +them out separately, and pack them when in flower in the ornamental +baskets. A perfect display of flowers in precisely the same stage of +development can thus be secured, and successional displays may follow +as long as supplies remain in the boxes. + +CROWN IMPERIAL + +Fritillaria imperialis + +A noble plant which needs a deep, rich, moist soil, and an open +situation, to insure the full degree of stateliness, but it will make a +very good figure in any border where it can enjoy a glimmer of +sunshine. There are several distinct varieties, the flowers of which +range in colour from palest yellow to the deepest shade of orange and +reddish buff, and there are others which have variegated leaves. They +should be planted in autumn eighteen inches apart, allowing from four +to six inches of soil above the crowns. + +CYCLAMEN + +Although it is advisable to raise Cyclamens from seed every year, +occasions arise when it is necessary to store the bulbs for a second +season, and the best method of treating them during the period of rest +must be considered. As the production of seed weakens the corms, +preference should be given to those which have not been subjected to +this tax on their energies. + +At the close of the flowering season the bulbs should be gradually +reduced to a resting state by withholding moisture. When the foliage +turns yellow the pots may be laid on their sides in a cold frame, if +available, or in any other convenient place where they will not be +forgotten, until about the middle of July. They should then be placed +upright, and have a supply of water. After fresh growth has fairly +commenced, shake the bulbs out of the pots, remove most of the old +soil, and re-pot in a compost consisting of mellow turfy loam and +leaf-mould, with a sufficient admixture of silver sand to insure +drainage. The corm should be so placed in the pot as to bring the crown +about level with the rim, and every care must be taken to avoid +injuring the young roots. Place the pots in a close frame for a few +days, after which ample ventilation should be given to maintain a +robust condition. The lights may remain constantly open until there is +danger from autumn frosts. Specimens that show a great number of +flower-buds should be assisted occasionally with weak manure water. + +_C. Coum_ and _C. europæum_ are rarely well grown, for although quite +hardy, the climate of this country does not suit them in their season +of flowering, which is the early spring. The cool greenhouse is the +safest place for them, except in sheltered spots, where they may be +planted out on a border of peat, or amongst ferns in a rockery. When +grown in pots, light turfy loam and peat in equal quantities, with a +fourth part of cow-manure and a liberal addition of sand, will form an +excellent compost for them. The pots should never be exposed to the +drying action of the sun or wind, but should be plunged to the rim in +coal-ashes. The best time for potting or planting them is September or +October. + +Instructions on raising Cyclamens from seed will be found at page 256. + +DAFFODIL—_see_ NARCISSUS, _page_ 344 + +DOG’S-TOOTH VIOLET + +The red and white varieties are as hardy as any plant in our gardens, +and by their neat habit and elegant leaves and flowers they are +admirably adapted to plant in quantities in the front of a rockery, in +either peat or sandy loam and leaf-mould. They are equally suitable for +edging small beds in gardens where spring flowers are systematically +grown; in fact, they are true ‘spring bedders.’ Autumn is the proper +time to plant the bulbs. But Dog’s-tooth Violets are also worth growing +in pots, especially where an unheated ‘Alpine house’ is kept for plants +of this class. Several bulbs may be put in a pot of the 48-size. + +FERRARIA—_see_ TIGRIDIA, _page 350_ + +FREESIA + +The singularly graceful form, wide range of beautiful colours, and +delicious perfume of this flower have made it an immense favourite; and +happily there is no Cape bulb which can be grown with greater ease in +the frame or cool greenhouse. One characteristic is very marked, and it +is the disproportion between the small bulb and the fine flowers +produced from it. + +Procure the bulbs as early in the autumn as possible, and lose no time +in potting them. Any light rich soil will answer, but that which suits +them best is composed of two parts of loam, one of leaf-mould, and one +of peat, with enough sand or grit added to insure drainage. Commence +with pots of the right size, for the roots are extremely brittle, and +there must be no risk of injuring them by re-potting. The 48-size will +accommodate several bulbs. Place under a south wall, and cover with +leaf-mould until top growth commences, and then remove the covering. + +At the end of September transfer the pots to a cold frame, and when the +plants attain a height of four inches, support them with neat sticks, +which should not be inserted too near the bulbs. Watering will require +judgment, for too much moisture turns the foliage yellow. When the pots +are full of roots, liquid manure twice a week will be helpful. + +After the blooming season has passed, encourage the foliage to wither +by withholding water. The roots may be stored away in their own pots +until the following August. + +FRITILLARIA + +Fritillarias produce bell-shaped flowers, varying in colour, but +generally of a purplish tint, and beautifully spotted. They thrive in a +good deep loam, but may be grown in almost any soil, and do well under +the shade of trees. They are quite hardy, and, like most other bulbs, +should be planted in autumn. Fritillarias are occasionally grown in +pots kept in a cold frame, but they will not endure forcing in the +least degree, and the mixed border is the best position for them. These +flowers make a charming ornament when grown in bowls filled with +moss-fibre. + +GLADIOLUS + +The Gladiolus is adapted for many important uses and it associates +admirably with Dahlias, Hollyhocks, Pyrethrums, and Phloxes in the +furnishing of clumps on the lawn and in the mixed border. It is +perfectly in harmony with surroundings when planted in American beds or +in the shrubbery. For supplying cut flowers it is invaluable, as they +retain their freshness in a vase for many days, and a plentiful supply +should be grown in reserved spots expressly for this purpose. + +Culture in Pots.—The early-flowering varieties are of especial value +for decorating greenhouses and conservatories during spring and early +summer. The corms of these Gladioli are small, and a 32-sized pot will +accommodate several. The soil should be decidedly rich, and it must be +porous, because water has to be given freely when the plants are in +full growth. Pot the corms in autumn, and cover with leaf-mould until +the roots are developed, when successive batches can be brought forward +and gently forced for a continuous supply of elegant flowers during +April and May. A mild temperature of about 55° is quite sufficient for +them. + +Culture in the Open Ground.—The autumn-flowering Gladioli are grown in +the open ground, and preparations should begin well in advance of +planting time. Almost any soil can be made to answer, but that which +suits them best is a good medium, friable loam with a cool rich +subsoil, and each grower must decide for himself how far this is within +reach naturally, or can be secured by resources at command. Thus, a +light soil may be made suitable by placing a thick layer of rotten +cow-manure a foot below the surface, and a heavy, retentive loam can be +reduced to the proper state by the admixture of lighter material. On +the surface spread a liberal quantity of manure and dig it in, leaving +the soil in a rough state to be disintegrated by frosts. Before the +planting time arrives it is worth some trouble to free the ground from +wire worms, or they will play havoc with the growth just as it is +appearing above ground. Potatoes serve admirably as traps for these +pests. + +Gladioli are peculiarly liable to injury from wind, so that a +sheltered, but not a shaded, position should, if possible, be chosen +for them. The time of planting depends partly on the district, partly +on the season; but the soil must be in suitable condition and fine +weather is necessary. From the middle of March to the middle of April +should afford some suitable opportunity of getting the bulbs in +satisfactorily. Give the land a light forking, not deep enough to bring +up the manure, and make the surface level. The rows may be twelve or +eighteen inches apart; we prefer the greater distance, because of the +convenience it affords in attending to the plants when growing; nine +inches is sufficient space in the rows. + +There are two methods of putting in the bulbs, each of which has +advocates among practised growers. One is to take out the soil with a +trowel to the depth of six or seven inches for each corm, then insert +about two inches of mixed sand and powdered charcoal or wood ashes; lay +the root upon it, and carefully cover with fine soil. If that process +is considered too tedious, draw a deep drill with a hoe, and at the +bottom put the light mixture already named; place the roots at regular +distances upon it, and lightly return the top soil. The operation +should be so performed as to leave the crown of the corm four inches +below the surface. When planting is completed, give the bed a finishing +touch with the rake. + +An eminent grower strips off the outer coat or skin of each bulb before +planting to ascertain that there is no disease; and this cannot +otherwise be discovered. No doubt the procedure prevents the bed from +showing blanks, but that object can be more safely attained by growing +a reserve in pots. There is, however, another practice which possesses +very decided advantages, and it is to break the skin at the crown of +the bulb to allow the foliage free exit. The skin is so tough that it +is frequently the means of distorting the plant in its attempt to force +an opening. + +The bed for a time needs little attention, except to keep it free from +weeds, and this is best done by hand. When the shoots reach about a +foot high, tying must be resorted to in earnest. The most effectual +plan, of course, is to put a separate stake to each plant, and for +exhibition specimens this is certainly advisable. But rows can be +secured by a stake at each end, with two or three strands of strong +material carried across, to which each flower must be tied. Whatever +method is adopted, care should be taken to avoid cutting the plant, +while holding it secure from damage in a high wind. Let the material +which is placed round the flowering-stem be soft and wide, such as +list, which answers admirably. + +Water must be freely and regularly given during dry weather, either in +the morning or in the evening; and a mulch of old manure spread over +the bed will prevent evaporation, and save the ground from caking hard. + +Another important matter is shading. For ordinary purposes this is not +essential; but as it very much lengthens the duration of the flower, it +is worth attention on that ground alone, and for exhibition it is +indispensable. Whether shading is provided by separate protectors made +expressly for the purpose, or by home-made contrivances of canvas or +wood, the point to be quite certain about is security, or an accident +may wreck well-grounded hopes. + +The lifting and storing of the corms affect the quality of the next +year’s flowers so much that it is important to accomplish lifting at +the most suitable time, and the storing in the best manner. By the +middle or end of October, on some fine day, take up the roots, even if +the foliage be still green; tie a label to each variety, and hang them +in some airy place until they can be cleared of soil and leaves. Remove +each stem with a sharp knife, and lay out the bulbs to dry for another +fortnight. They can then be stored in paper bags or in boxes on any dry +shelf which is safe from vermin and frost. + +An article on the culture of the Gladiolus from seed will be found on +page 267. + +GLOXINIA + +Gloxinias may be had in bloom almost all the year by judicious +management. When required for early flowering, those that start first +should be selected and carefully shifted into other pots, and be kept +near the glass, as they depend much on light for rapid and luxuriant +growth. A moist atmosphere, with the temperature about 60° to 65°, +greatly facilitates the growth of Gloxinias, but they may be grown well +in greenhouses or in pits heated by hot water. The most suitable soil +is a light fibrous loam, combined with a little peat and silver sand. +Manure water during the growing period twice a week is helpful, but it +should be discontinued when the flowers show colour. The plants love +shade, and at no time should suffer from drought. Storing Gloxinias for +their season of rest, _i.e._ the winter, must be carefully attended to, +as losses frequently occur during this stage. It is also important that +the plants should not be ‘dried off’ too quickly; place them in a +light, airy position, and by a gradual reduction of moisture the leaves +will fall off naturally. The bulbs may then be stored away on a shelf, +in an even temperature of about 50°, each bulb being closely surrounded +by cocoa-nut fibre and peat in equal parts to prevent excessive +dryness, which, like too much damp, often causes the loss of the bulb. + +Besides growing the same plants from year to year, it is always +desirable to have a fresh stock coming on, as the old bulbs may +deteriorate after two or three years. This can easily be managed by +successive sowings of seed, as advised at page 268. + +HEMEROCALLIS—_see under_ LILIES, _page 343_ + +HYACINTH + +One of the most valuable characteristics of the Hyacinth is the ease +with which it can be flowered in a variety of ways by very simple modes +of treatment. It may be employed as a hardy, rough-weather plant for +the garden border, or as a grand exhibition and conservatory flower. +The bulbs may be planted at any time from September to the middle of +December, with the certainty of their blooming well, if properly cared +for; but the prudent cultivator will plant them as early as possible in +the autumn, and so manage them afterwards as to secure the longest +period of growth previous to their flowering. They can be forced to +flower at Christmas, but the more slowly the flowers are developed the +finer in the end will they be. To obtain good bulbs is a matter of the +utmost importance, and it may be useful here to remark that the mere +size of a Hyacinth bulb is no criterion of its value—nor, indeed, is +its neatness of form or brightness of appearance. The two most +important qualities are soundness and density. If the bulbs are hard +and heavy in proportion to their size, they may be depended on to +produce good flowers of their kind. The bulbs of some sorts are never +large or handsome, while, on the other hand, many others partake of +both these qualities in a marked degree. + +One other matter in general relating to the treatment of Hyacinths +needs to be referred to. Harm has often been done by the practice of +massing the flowers, whether in pot groups or in garden beds, without +consideration of colour harmonies. Yet no other bulbous flower offers +such a wide choice of delightful colours, or is so eminently adapted to +artistic blending, as the Hyacinth. By eschewing the dull blues and +allied shades and by bringing into association exquisite tones of +mauve, pink, apricot, salmon, pale yellow, rich lilac, bright red, &c., +it is easy to demonstrate that there are possibilities in Hyacinths +which may never have been suspected before. The following are a few of +the charming blends which may be made, and will especially appeal to +those who grow Hyacinths indoors: (i) Apricot, cream, and pale blue; +(2) cream, pale pink, and rose-pink; (3) bright pink and pale blue; (4) +bright red, rich blue, and pure white; (5) rose-pink and rich blue; (6) +pale yellow and rich blue; (7) deep mauve and pale mauve; (8) cream and +pale blue; (9) bright blue shades (dull, washy, and nondescript blue, +purple, and violet tints must be avoided); (10) blush pink and +rose-pink; (11) apricot and cream; (12) pale lavender, cream, and +apricot. These examples will show that charming effects can be secured +either with two or with three varieties. Colour-grouping may also be +carried out in the garden, but in this case great care must be +exercised to get varieties of clear, bright hues which flower at the +same time, such as Inimitable Bedding Hyacinths. Modern taste further +dictates that the bare soil shall be hidden, and this end is best +served by providing a groundwork of dwarf plants, such as Daisies, +Forget-me-nots, double white Arabis, and mauve Aubrietia. Another +course is to mix Hyacinths with Daffodils of the Chalice or Star +section; there is no better variety than Sir Watkin, but others may be +used. + +Culture in Pots.—It is not necessary to use large pots, or pots of a +peculiar shape, for Hyacinths. There is nothing better than common +flower-pots, and in those of 60-size single bulbs may be flowered in a +most satisfactory manner. The pots usually employed are the 48-and +32-sizes, the last-named being required only for selected bulbs grown +for exhibition. We advise the use of small pots where Hyacinths are +grown in pits and frames for decorative purposes, because they can be +conveniently placed in ornamental stands, or packed close together in +baskets of moss, when required for the embellishment of the +drawing-room. As the use of new pots for Hyacinths is often the cause +of failure, they should not be employed if well-cleansed old pots are +available. The tender roots of the bulbs frequently become too dry +owing to the absorbent nature of the new pots. A rich, light soil is +indispensable, and it should consist chiefly of turfy loam, with +leaf-mould and a liberal allowance of sharp sand. The mixture ought to +be in a moderately moist condition when ready for use. In small pots +one hollow crock must suffice, but the 48-and 32-sized pots can be +prepared in the usual way, with one large hollow crock, and a little +heap of smaller potsherds or nodules of charcoal over it. Fill the pots +quite full of soil, and then press the bulb into it, and press the soil +round the bulb to finish the operation. If potted loosely, they will +not thrive; if potted too firmly, they will rise up as soon as the +roots begin to grow, and be one-sided. In large pots the bulbs should +be nearly covered with soil, but in small pots they must be only half +covered, in order to afford them the largest possible amount of +root-room. When potted, a cool place must be found for them, and unless +they go absolutely dry, they should not have a drop of water until they +begin to grow freely and are in the enjoyment of full daylight. The +pots may be stored in a dark, cool pit, or any out-of-the-way place +where neither sun, nor frost, nor heavy rains will affect them; but it +is advisable to plunge them in coal-ashes and also to cover them with a +few inches of the ashes. As to their removal, they must be taken out as +wanted for forcing, and certainly before they push up their flower +spikes, as they will do if they remain too long in the bed. The +cultivator will be guided in respect of their removal from the bed by +circumstances; but when they are removed, a distinct routine of +treatment must be observed, or the flowering will be unsatisfactory. +For a short time they should be placed in subdued daylight, that the +blanched growth may acquire a healthy green hue slowly; and they need +to be kept cool in order that they shall grow very little until a +healthy colour is acquired. The floor of a cool greenhouse is a good +place for them when first taken out of the bed and cleaned up for +forcing. Another matter of great importance is to place them near the +glass immediately their green colour is established, and to grow them +as slowly as the requirements of the case will permit. If to be forced +early, allow plenty of time to train them to bear a great heat, taking +from bed to pit, and from pit to cool house, and deferring to the +latest possible moment placing them in the heat in which they are to +flower. Those to bloom at Christmas should be potted in September, +those to follow may be potted a month later. If a long succession is +required, a sufficient number should be potted every two or three weeks +to the end of the year. Those potted latest will, of course, flower in +frames without the aid of heat. In any and every case the highest +temperature of the forcing-pit should be 70°; to go beyond that point +will cause an attenuated growth and poverty of colour. If liquid manure +is employed at all, it should be used constantly and extremely weak +until the flowers begin to expand, and then pure soft water only should +be used. No matter what may be the particular constitution of the +liquid manure, it must be weak, or it will do more harm than good. The +spikes should be supported by wires or neat sticks in ample time, and a +constant watch kept to see that the stems are not cut or bent, as they +rapidly develop beyond the range allowed them by their supports. + +Culture in Glasses.—It is of little consequence whether rain, river, or +spring water be employed in this mode of culture, but it must be pure, +and in the glasses it should nearly but not quite touch the bulbs. +Store at once in a dark, cool place, to encourage the bulbs to send +their roots down into the water before the leaves begin to grow. When +the roots are developed, bring the glasses from the dark to the light, +in order that leaves and flowers may be in perfect health. Let them +have as much light as possible, with an equable temperature, and +provide supports in good time. Hyacinths are often injured by being +kept in rooms that are at times extremely cold and at others heated to +excess. Those who wish to grow the bulbs to perfection in glasses +should remove them occasionally as circumstances may require, to +prevent the injury that must otherwise result from rapid and extreme +alternations of temperature. It is not desirable to introduce to the +water any stimulating substance, but the glasses must be kept nearly +full of water by replenishing as it disappears. If the leaves become +dusty, they may be cleansed with a soft brush or a sponge dipped in +water, but particular care must be taken not to injure them in the +process. + +Culture in Moss-fibre.—While Hyacinths, differing from Daffodils and +Tulips, are perhaps relatively better in pots of soil than in bowls of +moss-fibre, they may still be grown successfully in bowls provided a +fairly deep receptacle is chosen and care is taken to avoid making the +fibre hard. With a shallow bowl and very firm fibre it may be found +that the roots strike upward and the plant does not get that abundant +supply of moisture which is essential to its welfare. For this method +of culture preference should be given to the Roman, Giant Italian, +Christmas Pink, Miniature and Grape Hyacinths, which look particularly +charming in bowls and similar contrivances. Detailed directions are +given on page 319. + +Culture in Beds.—The Hyacinth will grow well in any ordinary garden +soil, but that which suits it best is a light rich loam. The bed should +be effectually drained, for though the plant loves moisture it cannot +thrive in a bog during the winter. It is advisable to plant early, and +to plant deep. If a rich effect is required, especially in beds near +the windows of a residence, the bulbs should be six inches apart, but +at a greater distance a good effect may be produced by planting nine +inches apart. The time of blooming may be to some extent influenced by +the time and manner of planting, but no strict rules can be given to +suit particular instances. Late planting and deep planting both tend to +defer the time of blooming, although there will not be a great +difference in any case, and as a rule the late bloom is to be +preferred, because less liable to injury from frost. The shallowest +planting should insure a depth of three inches of earth above the crown +of the bulb, but they will flower better, and only a few days later, if +covered with full six inches of earth over the crowns. The Hyacinth is +so hardy that protection need not be thought of, except in peculiar +cases of unusual exposure, or on the occurrence of an excessively low +temperature when they are growing freely. Under any circumstances, +there is no protection so effectual as dry litter, but a thin coat of +half-rotten manure spread over the bed is to be preferred in the event +of danger being apprehended at any time before the growth has fairly +pushed through. + +The bulbs may be taken up as soon as the leaves acquire a yellow +colour, so that the brilliant display of spring may be immediately +followed by another, equally brilliant perhaps, but in character +altogether different. When grown in beds, Hyacinths do not require +water or sticks; all they need is to be planted properly, and they will +take care of themselves. + +Miniature Hyacinths.—These charming little sparkling gems are +invaluable for baskets, bowls and other contrivances which are adapted +for the choicest decorative purposes. In quality they are excellent, +the spikes being symmetrical, the flowers well formed, and the colours +brilliant. But they are true miniatures, growing about half the size of +the other kinds, and requiring less soil to root in. They will flower +well if planted in a mixture of moss-fibre and charcoal, kept +constantly moist, and covered with the greenest moss, to give to the +ornament containing them a finished appearance. + +Feather and Grape Hyacinths will grow in any good garden soil, and are +admirably adapted for borders that are shaded by trees. They should be +planted in large clumps, and be allowed to remain several years +undisturbed. Both classes are beautiful—the Feather Hyacinth +emphatically so; indeed, numerous as beautiful flowers are, this, for +delicacy of structure, has peculiar claims to our admiration, when +presenting its feathery plumes a foot or more in length, all cut into +curling threads of the most elegant tenuity. Grape Hyacinths make a +charming ornament for the drawing-room when grown in bowls of +moss-fibre. + +Roman Hyacinth.—This flower is particularly welcome in the short, dark +days of November, December, and January. For placing in glasses to +decorate the drawing-room or dinner-table the spikes of bloom are +largely grown; and the separate flowers, mounted on wire, form an +important feature in winter bouquets, for which purpose their delicious +perfume renders them especially valuable. + +The bulbs can be grown with the utmost ease. Pot them immediately they +can be obtained in August or September, and stand them in some spare +corner in the open ground, where they can be covered with a few inches +of leaf-mould. This will encourage the roots to start before there is +any top growth. In October remove the covering, and transfer the pots +to a pit or frame, or they may be placed under the greenhouse stage for +a time, provided they will not be in the way of dripping water. A +little later, room should be found for them upon the stage, or the +foliage may become drawn. When the buds are visible, plunge the pots in +a bottom heat of 65° or 70°, and in a week the flowers will be fit for +use. Like its more imposing prototype, the Roman Hyacinth may have its +roots gently freed from soil for packing in bowls or vases filled with +wet moss or sand; but they ought not to be subjected to a violent +change of temperature. If wanted in glasses, they can be grown in water +after the usual fashion, but the flower is scarcely adapted for this +mode of treatment. They will, however, grow well in bowls filled with +moss-fibre. + +Italian Hyacinth.—Although rather later in flowering than the Roman +variety, the Italian Hyacinth deserves to be grown as a pot plant, +especially for its more lasting quality. The graceful flowers are +carried on long stout stems which are most effective for the decoration +of vases. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and may be planted in clumps +in the open border, where they will bloom in April and afford abundant +sprays for cutting. The habit is less formal than that of the Dutch +Hyacinth and the flowers exhale a sweet delicate perfume. As previously +stated, the Italian Hyacinth is especially suitable for growing in +moss-fibre. + +HYACINTHUS CANDICANS + +An excellent companion to Delphiniums, Salvias, and perennial Lobelias +in the mixed border. The stately spikes of this flower also associate +well with shrubs, and help to enliven a bed of Rhododendrons at a +period of the year when the latter is uninteresting. Roots may be +planted in any soil from November to March; and, as they are perfectly +hardy, they can be left in the open ground all the year without the +least misgiving as to their safety. A strong root will produce a +succession of flower-spikes, and this tendency will be assisted by +cutting off each spike immediately it has ceased to be attractive. + +IRIS + +The common varieties of Iris are well-known favourites of the border, +and the whole family have claims on the attention of amateurs, on +account of their excellent faculty of taking care of themselves if +properly planted in the first instance. The tuberous or bulbous rooted +kinds do not require a rich soil; a sandy loam suits them, and they +thrive in peat. Such beautiful species as Reticulata, the Chalcedonian, +and the Peacock are worth growing in pots placed in frames or in a cool +greenhouse. The English, Dutch, and Spanish varieties should be planted +in clumps in front of a shrubbery border, where they may be seen to +advantage. The crown of the bulb must not be more than three inches +below the surface. From September to December will answer for planting, +and the roots may be taken up when the flowering period is over, or if +the space is not wanted they can be allowed to remain for the following +season. Bulbs of the English class should never be kept out of the +ground longer than can be helped, but they ought not to be grown in one +spot for more than three years; after that time the clumps must be +divided and a fresh position found for them. + +IXIA and SPARAXIS + +These attractive Cape bulbs are hardy in favoured districts, and may be +left out for years in a sheltered border. In places where none but the +hardiest plants pass through the winter safely, they must be grown in +the greenhouse or the frame, and any good sandy soil will suit them, +whether peat or loam. They should be potted early in the autumn, and +have plenty of air at all times when the weather is favourable, +especially when they are growing freely in spring. If carefully +managed, they may remain two seasons in the same pots. Use the 48-size, +and plant four or five bulbs in each. A dry, deep, sandy border under a +wall in any of the warmer western and southern districts might be +furnished with such plants as Ixias, Sparaxis, Alstroemerias, Oxalis, +Tritonias, Babianas, and the choicest of the smaller kinds of Iris. It +would constitute a garden of the most interesting exotics. + +JONQUIL + +For its delicious fragrance and exquisite beauty the Jonquil has long +been considered one of the most valuable of the Narciss family for +cultivation in pots, and it is also a first-rate border and woodland +flower. When forced, the treatment should agree as nearly as possible +with that prescribed for the Narcissus. Four or five bulbs may be +planted in one pot. + +LACHENALIA + +An elegant plant which is not quite hardy enough to be trusted in the +open ground; but it is the easiest matter possible to grow it well in +the greenhouse. The bulbs should be potted as soon as they begin to +grow in the autumn, and several bulbs may be put into each pot. There +can be no better soil than turfy loam, without manure or sand. It is of +the utmost importance that the plants should have abundance of water, +when they will produce leaves two inches across, and spikes of flowers +fully double the size of those commonly met with. An admirable use for +these bulbs is to insert them all over the outside of hanging-baskets, +which they will cover with the most graceful display of aërial +vegetation imaginable, the flower-spikes turning upwards, and the +leaves hanging down. + +LEUCOJUM + +The Spring Snowflake (_L. vernum_) blooms as early as February or +March, and the Summer Snowflake (_L. æstivum_) comes into flower in May +and June. They closely resemble the Snowdrop, but are much larger than +that well-known spring favourite. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and +will grow in any garden soil. Plant in clumps three inches deep, any +time from the end of September until the middle of November. + +LILIES + +Hardy border Lilies are among the most useful garden plants known. They +are peculiarly hardy and robust, requiring no support from sticks or +ties; several of them remain green all the winter, and are capable of +resisting any amount of frost. If left alone, they increase rapidly, +and become more valuable every year. We will say nothing of their +beauty, for that is proverbial; but it may be useful to observe that +many of the most lovely Lilies, usually regarded as only suitable for +the greenhouse, and grown with great care under glass, are really as +hardy as the old common white Lily, and may be grown with it in the +same border. To grow Lilies well requires a deep, moist, rich loam. A +stubborn clay may be improved for them by deep digging, and +incorporating with the staple plenty of rotten manure and leaf-mould. +They all thrive in peat, or rotten turf, or, indeed, in any soil +containing an abundance of decomposing vegetable matter. The autumn is +the proper time to plant Lilies, but they may be planted at any season, +if they can be obtained in a dormant state or growing in pots. They +should be planted deep for their size, say, never less than six inches. +After they have stood some years it is necessary to lift and part the +clumps, when the borders should be deeply dug and liberally manured +before replanting. If the stems of Lilies become leafless and unsightly +before the flowers are past, it is a sign that the roots are too dry, +or that the soil is impoverished; and therefore, as soon as the stems +die down, they should be lifted, and perhaps transferred to a more +favourable spot. + +Amaryllis.—These magnificent plants do not require the high temperature +in which they are usually grown, nor should they be allowed to remain +for a great length of time dust-dry, as we sometimes find them. It is +important to remember that they have distinct seasons of activity and +rest, but must not be forced into either condition by such drastic +measures as are occasionally resorted to. The proper soil for them is +turfy loam, enriched with rotten manure, and rendered moderately porous +by an admixture of sand. The light soil in which many plants thrive +will not suit them; the soil must be firm, and somewhat rough in +texture. When first potted, give them very little water, and promote +growth by means of a bottom heat of 65°. Increase the supply of water +as the plants progress, and shift them into 6-inch pots for flowering. +While they are in flower they may be placed in the conservatory, or +wherever else they may be required for decorative purposes. When the +flowers have faded take them to the greenhouse to complete their +growth, after which dry them off slowly, but with the clear +understanding that they are never to be desiccated. They may be +wintered in the greenhouse, and should certainly be placed where they +will always be slightly moist, even if a few leaves remain green +throughout the winter. Frequent disturbance of the roots is to be +particularly avoided in the cultivation of Amaryllis, and therefore it +is desirable to allow them to remain in the same pots two or three +years; or if they are shifted on, it should be done in such a way that +the roots are scarcely seen in the process. Top dressing and liquid +manure will help them when they have been some time in the same pots. + +Lilium auratum.—This magnificent Lily has proved to be as hardy as the +white garden variety, and is now freely planted in borders and +shrubberies where the noble heads of bloom always command admiration. +But the splendour of the flower will continue to insure for it a high +degree of favour as a decorative subject for the conservatory. When +grown in a pot the best soil is sandy peat, but it will flower finely +in a rich light mixture, such as Fuchsias require. It is advisable to +begin with the smallest pot in which the bulb can be placed, and then +to shift to larger and larger sizes as the plant progresses, taking +care to have the bulb two inches below the soil when in their flowering +pots, because roots are thrown out from the stem just above the bulb, +and these roots need to be carefully fed, as they are the main support +of the flowers that appear later. When the flower-buds are visible, +there should, of course, be no further shifting. In respect of +temperature, this is an accommodating Lily; but as a rule a cool house +is better for the plant than one which is maintained at a high +temperature. The supply of water should be plentiful during the period +of growth and flowering, but afterwards it can be reduced. + +Lilium Harrisii (_The Bermuda, or Easter Lily_) is of the _longiflorum_ +type, but the flowers are larger, and are produced with greater freedom +than by the ordinary _L. longiflorum_. Moreover, the Bermuda Lily +flowers almost continuously. Before one stem has finished blooming +another shoots up. This perennial habit gives it a peculiar value for +the greenhouse, and renders forcing possible at almost any season. + +Immediately the bulbs are received they should be potted in rich +fibrous loam—the more fibrous the better—and be placed in a cold frame. +They need little water until growth has fairly commenced, after which +more moisture will be necessary. So far as safety is concerned, they +only require protection from frost; but for an early show of bloom +artificial heat is imperative. The temperature should, however, be very +moderate at first, and rise slowly. When the buds show, a top-dressing +of fresh loam and decayed manure will be helpful, and to allow for this +the soil must be two inches from the tops of the pots when the bulbs +are first potted. After producing two or three flowering stems, it will +be wise to place the pots out of doors and give less water, or the +bulbs will be exhausted. But they must never be allowed to become quite +dry, and after a partial rest of six weeks or two months they may be +re-potted in fresh soil and started for another show of bloom. + +We do not recommend the planting of this Lily in open borders during +autumn, for growth will commence immediately, and a severe frost will +cut it down; but if planted in spring, it succeeds admirably, and will +produce a long succession of its handsome trumpet-shaped flowers. For +the following winter it can be either protected, or lifted for storing +in a frame. + +Lilium lancifolium.—A graceful and highly perfumed Lily, which is +perfectly hardy, and will grow in good loam, though peat is to be +preferred for pot culture. To produce handsome specimens the same +routine must be followed as directed for the cultivation of _L. +auratum_. It scarcely need be added that, instead of growing the bulbs +separately in pots, several may be grown in a large pot to produce a +richer effect. But it is not advisable to place the bulbs in a large +mass of earth in the first instance. It is better that they should +commence their growth in small pots, and be shifted on as they require +more room. Aphis is extremely partial to these Lilies, particularly if +they are badly grown and allowed to suffer for the want of water. The +simplest way to remove the pest is to dip the plants in pure water, +taking care, of course, to prevent them from falling out of the pots in +the operation. + +Lily of the Valley.—The popular name of this native plant is a +misnomer. Botanically it is known as _Convallaria majalis_, and +structurally the roots differ from those which are characteristic of +the whole tribe of Liliums. However, we have no quarrel with a charming +name for a most dainty flower of fairy-like proportions. The sprays of +pure white pendulous bells have captivated the popular fancy, and they +are in public demand from the moment florists are able to place them on +the market. + +Whether for early or late spring forcing, or for planting in the open +ground, the most vigorous strain should be chosen, and there is one +which is incomparably superior to all others, producing finer spikes +and larger individual flowers. As a rule these roots are obtainable in +November, but, if necessary, it is far better to wait a week or two +than attempt to force such as have been lifted prematurely. + +The crowns may be potted, and where few are grown this is the usual +course. The large growers pack them in boxes, with a little fine soil, +and cover the tops with about four inches of cocoa-nut fibre. For the +earliest supply a temperature of 90° is necessary, accompanied with +plenty of moisture. After the spikes of bloom show, slightly reduce the +temperature, and remove the fibre to afford the leaves an opportunity +of maturing. When sufficiently advanced transfer the plants to pots for +the conservatory or the decoration of windows. Successive supplies can +be brought forward with less heat. + +In the open, Lily of the Valley require a partially shaded position. +The soil must be freely manured, and a good proportion of leaf-mould +worked in. Plant single crowns at a distance of six inches from each +other, and supply them with liquid manure during the growing period. +After four, or at most five years, they will become too crowded, when +they should be lifted, and the largest and finest crowns be selected +for the formation of a fresh bed. + +Japanese Day Lily (_Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pl._).—Admirably adapted +for pot culture to decorate the conservatory, the rich variegation of +its graceful curling leaves affording an elegant display of colour in +the early months of the year, and its fine double flowers being +extremely showy during their short blooming season. As this variety is +quite hardy, it may be planted in the select border with perfect +safety, and, in common with other Day Lilies, it bears the shade of +trees remarkably well. This is certainly one of the handsomest hardy +plants in cultivation. + +MONTBRETIA + +Of this useful autumn-flowering bulb there are several varieties, _M. +crocosmiflora_ probably being the most popular. In the warm and +sheltered gardens of the South and in light well-drained soil the roots +pass the winter safely. But where frost prevails some protection, such +as a small mound of litter, must be provided; the covering to be +removed immediately the danger of frost is past. The most favourable +time for planting is the autumn, but during open weather the roots may +be put in up to the end of March. It is usual to plant in clumps at a +depth of about three inches, allowing a distance of six inches between +the corms. As they may remain undisturbed for several years the spacing +will permit them to spread and produce masses of their graceful +flowers. + +NARCISSUS + +Narcissi and Daffodils differ from Hyacinths, Tulips, and some other +bulbs in one particular which is important, because it furnishes the +key to the management of these flowers. The rootlets do not perish +during the season of rest, and this fact clearly indicates that the +bulbs should not remain out of ground for a day longer than is +necessary. + +Culture in Pots.—All the Polyanthus class, and almost all the Garden +varieties, thrive in pots, and can be forced with extreme ease. Pot +them early in any rich, porous compost, and put them into the soil a +little deeper than is usual for Hyacinths. For a few weeks keep them in +a cool spot in the open ground under a thick covering of ashes to +promote root-growth without prematurely starting the tops. With all +bulbs this is an important point, especially for such as are intended +to be brought forward in heat. When the pots are full of roots, +leaf-growth will commence, and the covering should be removed. A cool +pit is then the best place for them. The after-treatment will depend +entirely on the date the flowers are wanted. A low temperature, long +continued, means late flowering, so that within reasonable limits the +grower can control the time of their appearance. For the earliest +display select the Roman and Paper White, which are naturally +early-blooming varieties. After a few days in a cool pit, transfer to +the greenhouse, and about a week or ten days before they are needed in +flower plunge them in a brisk bottom heat, and give plenty of water of +the proper temperature. The forcing should not begin until the plants +are sufficiently advanced, or it will injure the flowers in both size +and colour. Weak manure water will be beneficial occasionally, but when +the blossoms begin to open this must be discontinued, and at the same +time the heat should be diminished. + +A succession of Narcissi for indoor decoration can be secured by +starting batches at intervals of two or three weeks; and by moderating +the treatment as the season advances, the last lot will flower +naturally without artificial stimulus. Large bulbs should be potted +singly, but several roots of the smaller sorts may be put into one pot. +Heavy heads of bloom will need support, and there is nothing neater +than the wires which are made expressly for the purpose. + +Culture in Moss-fibre.—The lightsome charm of Narcissi and Daffodils is +never seen to greater advantage than when these are grown in bowls of +fibre for the decoration of rooms. Well-filled bowls of Daffodils are +as delightful indoors as are sturdy clumps nodding over grass or +Polyanthuses in the open air. The cultural routine is clean, pleasant, +and full of interest. The bowls are chosen with care, the fibre is well +saturated by repeated turning and moistening (this is essential to +success), enough crushed oyster shell is incorporated to make the +compost glisten brightly through and through, the mixture is pressed +into the bowl until it is firm without being hard, the bulbs are half +embedded, a few pieces of charcoal are pushed in here and there, the +bowls are put in a dark place for six weeks or so, and the rest is +merely to see that the fibre never gets dry. + +Culture in Water.—For growing in glasses no other bulbous flower is +equal to the Narcissus. Darkness at the outset is not essential to it, +and therefore the gradual development of the roots may be observed from +the time they start; and contact with water will do no harm to the +bulb. The glasses should, however, be kept in a low and fairly uniform +temperature, to discourage the growth of foliage until the bulbs have +fully formed their roots. Pure rain water is desirable, but it is not +actually necessary; and for the sake of appearances, as well as on the +score of health, it should be changed immediately it ceases to be quite +transparent. Those who do not care to observe the growth in glasses, +but like to have the plants in water during the blooming period, may +grow the bulbs in pots in the usual way, and wash off the soil when +wanted. In this case the roots will not be quite so regular as those +which have been wholly grown in water. Perhaps we need scarcely say +that it is possible to utilise this flower in many other ways—such, for +instance, as in decorating épergnes, glass globes, and fancy vases. +They may also be made to float on a small fountain or aquarium; indeed, +it is surprising to what varied and effective purposes a little +ingenuity will adapt them. + +Culture in Open Ground.—For this purpose the Narcissus will always +command attention for its graceful appearance; and this observation +applies with as much force to the Polyanthus section, when thus used, +as to the varieties which are specially recognised as Garden Narcissus. +The latter class includes many old favourites, among which is the +Pheasant’s Eye—one of the most exquisite flowers grown in our gardens. + +The Narcissus is often used for bedding with superb effect. The +graceful habit, which is one of its principal charms, is very striking +in large masses, and its elegant appearance in the positions for which +it is naturally suited cannot fail to arrest attention. Beneath trees, +by the side of a shady walk, in front of shrubberies, or in the mixed +border, the Narcissus is thoroughly at home. + +If possible, choose a position where the bulbs need not be disturbed +for several years, and plant them early. When the spot they are to +occupy happens to be full, pot the bulbs until the ground is vacant, +and in due time turn them out. A southern or western aspect is +desirable, but the nature of the soil is comparatively unimportant, +provided it is dry when the bulbs are in their resting state. In sour +land or in stagnant water they will certainly rot, but a touch of sea +spray will not injure them. If the soil needs enriching, there is no +better material than decayed cow-manure, which may be incorporated as +the work goes on, or it can be applied as a top-dressing. Those which +are evidently weak may be assisted with a few doses of manure water, +not too strong. + +In planting groups, put the smaller bulbs four or five inches, and the +larger sorts from six to nine inches apart; depth, six to nine inches, +according to size. Where exposed to a strong wind, it may be necessary +to give the flowers some kind of support to save them from injury. + +The Double and Single Daffodils are now in marked public favour and +their bright colours make them extremely useful for beds and borders. +For planting under and among trees they are invaluable, and a +sufficient number should always be put in to produce an immediate +effect. They thrive in damp, shady spots, and every three or four years +it will be necessary to divide and replant them. + +The Chinese Sacred Lily (_Narcissus Tazetta_).—The popular name of this +flower is misleading. It is not a Lily, but a Narcissus of the +Polyanthus type, and, like others of the same class, the bulbs may be +successfully grown in soil or in water. But _Narcissus Tazetta_ has +proved to be singularly beautiful in water, and the management of it +entails very little trouble. A wide bowl of Japanese pattern is +appropriate for the purpose, and to obtain the best effect the bowl +should be partially filled with a number of plain or ornamental stones, +with a few pieces of charcoal to keep the water sweet. On the top, and +so that they will be held by the stones, place one or more bulbs: pour +in water until it covers the base of the bulbs. Store in a dark cool +cellar until the roots have started and the leaves begin to appear; +then remove to the room where the ornament is wanted. Occasionally the +water must be replenished. The development of the flower-heads is +surprisingly rapid, and a large bulb generally produces several +clusters of sweetly scented flowers. But if the bulbs are forced too +quickly the blossoms are sometimes crippled. + +ORNITHOGALUM + +Star of Bethlehem + +During the month of June _O. arabicum_ produces heads of pure white +fragrant flowers, each having a green centre. The roots are large and +fleshy, and should be planted in the autumn six inches deep. A +sheltered position, such as under a south wall, is desirable for them, +and some protection in the form of dry litter, or a heap of light +manure, will be necessary to carry the roots safely through severe +winter weather. The bulbs are frequently potted for indoor decoration. +Another variety, _O. umbellatum_, with pure white starry flowers, makes +an attractive show in May, and is valuable for naturalising in clumps +or masses in the border. + +OXALIS + +These frame plants are suitable for the cool greenhouse or for forcing, +and they are adapted also for the open border in peculiarly favourable +districts. They are particularly neat and cheerful, flowering +abundantly, and requiring only the most ordinary treatment of frame +plants. In winter they should be kept dry. The 48-sized pot is +suitable, and about five bulbs may be planted in each, using light soil +freely mixed with sand. + +RANUNCULUS + +To maintain a collection of named Ranunculuses demands skill and +patience, but a few of the most brilliant self-coloured, spotted and +striped varieties may be easily grown, if a cool, deep, rich, moist +soil can be provided for them. The best soil for the Ranunculus is a +loam or clay in which the common field Buttercup grows freely and +plentifully. The situation should be open, the bed well pulverised, and +the soil effectively drained, both to promote a vigorous growth and, as +far as possible, to save the plants from injury by wireworms, +leather-jackets, and other ground vermin. Elaborate modes of manuring, +such as mixing several sorts of manure together in mystical +proportions, are altogether unnecessary, but a good dressing of rotten +manure and leaf-mould should be dug in before planting, and if the soil +is particularly heavy, sharp sand must be added. The roots may be +planted in November and December in gardens where vegetation does not +usually suffer from damp in winter; but where there is any reason to +apprehend danger from damp, the planting should be deferred until +February, and should be completed within the first twenty days of that +month, if weather permit. Prepare a fine surface to plant on, and draw +drills six inches apart and two inches deep, and place the tubers, +claws downwards, in the drills, four inches apart, covering them with +sifted soil before drawing the earth back to the drill. Rake the bed +smooth, and the planting is completed. To keep free from weeds, and to +give plentiful supplies of water in dry weather, are the two principal +features of the summer cultivation. When the flowers are past, and the +leaves begin to fade, take up the roots, dry them in a cool place, and +store in peat or cocoa-nut fibre. + +Turban Ranunculus.—This class is remarkably handsome, of hardier +constitution and freer growth than the edged and spotted varieties. For +the production of masses of colour, and to form showy clumps in the +borders, the Turban varieties are of the utmost value. They require a +good loam, well manured, and the general treatment advised for the +named varieties; but as they are not so delicate they will thrive under +less congenial conditions. + +SCILLA + +The Blue Squill may be grown in exactly the same manner as the Roman +Hyacinth for indoor decoration, and it makes a charming companion to +that flower. It is perfectly hardy, and for its deep, lovely blue +should be largely grown in the open border, where it appears to +especial advantage in conjunction with Snowdrops. It is also valuable +for filling small beds, and for making marginal lines in the geometric +garden. + +The _Scilla præcox_, or _sibirica_, thrives on the mountains of North +Italy, where masses of it may be seen growing close to the snow, and in +this country it withstands wind and rain which would be the ruin of +many another flower. Still we like to see it in a sheltered border, +where it has a fair chance of displaying its beauty without much risk +of injury. In such a position it will flower in February, and in the +bleakest quarter it will open in March. It is not at all fastidious as +to soil, but when planted will give no further trouble until the +foliage withers, and it is time to lift the bulbs to make way for other +occupants. If convenient, the roots may remain for years in one spot. + +The _Scilla campanulata_ deserves more attention than it has hitherto +received. After almost all other spring-flowering bulbs are over, it +makes a beautiful display, which lasts until nearly the end of May. It +somewhat resembles the wild Blue-bell, but is much larger than that +woodland flower. + +SNOWDROP + +Snowdrops are among the hardiest flowers known to our gardens, and are +invaluable for their welcome snow-white bells in the earliest days of +the opening spring. They should be planted in clumps, and left alone +for years. The double-flowering variety is exquisitely beautiful: we +might, indeed, speak of it as a bit of floral jewellery. The flowers +are bell-shaped, closely packed with petals, like so many microscopic +petticoats arranged for the ‘tiring’ of a fairy: they are snow-white +and sometimes delicately tipped with light green. This variety is as +hardy as the single, and the best for growing in baskets and pots. When +employed in lines the planting ought to be very close together, and the +line should be composed of several rows, making, in fact, a broad band. +Such a ribbon when backed with _Scilla sibirica_ is very beautiful. The +best way of displaying the Snowdrop alone is in large groups densely +crowded together. The effect is much more telling than when the same +number of bulbs is spread over a larger area. Put the roots in drills, +two inches deep, and if possible in a spot where they need not be +disturbed for two or three years. Snowdrops may be grown in pots, and +be gently forced for Christmas. But unless wanted very early, it will +answer to lift clumps from the border in November and pot them. + +SPARAXIS + +See instructions under Ixia at page 338. + +TIGRIDIA, or FERRARIA + +The short-lived blossoms of the Tiger Flower are most gorgeously +painted, and differ from everything else of the great family of Irids +to which they belong. Much finer flowers are produced in the border +than when grown in pots, and they present great variety, scarcely any +two amongst hundreds showing flowers exactly alike. The usual time of +planting outdoors is March or April, at a depth of three or four +inches, and the flowers appear in June. Sandy loam and peaty soils are +especially suitable. Although Tigridias are not quite hardy they will +on a dry border pass the winter securely beneath a protection of +litter. But where the soil is damp it is safer to lift them in October +and store in the same manner as Gladioli. A bed of Tigridias makes an +agreeable ornament in front of the window of a breakfast-room, as the +flowers are in a brilliant state in the early hours of the day. + +TRITELEIA UNIFLORA + +This little gem belongs to the spring garden, and should be the +companion of the Dog’s-tooth Violet, the Crocus, and the Snowdrop. It +will grow in any soil, and will produce an abundance of its +violet-tinted white flowers, which, when handled, emit a faint odour of +garlic. As a pot plant for the Alpine house it is first-rate. In the +open, plant in October two inches deep. + +TRITONIA + +Tritonias are more showy than the Ixia or Sparaxis, but belong to the +same group of South African Irids, and require the same treatment. They +may be planted out in April, if prepared for that mode of cultivation +by putting them in small pots in November or December. It is not +advisable to tie them to sticks, for they are more elegant when allowed +to fall over the edge of the pots, and suggest the ‘negligence of +Nature.’ + +TROPÆOLUM + +_T. tuberosum._—A few of the tuberous-rooted Tropæolums are hardy, but +it is not wise to leave them in the ground, for damp may destroy them, +if they are proof against frost. They are all graceful trailing plants, +adapted for covering wire trellises, and may be flowered at any season +if required, though their natural season is the summer. The compost in +which they thrive best is a light rich loam, containing a large +proportion of sand. The stems are usually trained on wires, but they +may be allowed to fall down from a pot or basket with excellent effect, +to form a most attractive tracery of leafage dotted with dazzling +flowers. The sunniest part of the greenhouse should be devoted to the +Tropæolums, and special care should be taken in potting them to secure +ample drainage. + +_T. speciosum._—This showy variety is quite hardy, and is largely grown +in Scotland where it may frequently be seen on cottage walls. The roots +may be planted in either spring or autumn, and a moist, somewhat shaded +position best suits the plant. + +TUBEROSE + +Polianthes tuberosa + +This bulb is extensively grown in the South of France for the delicious +perfume obtainable from its numerous pure white flowers. In this +country it is widely known, but considering the beauty and exceeding +fragrance of the blossoms it is astonishing that a greater number are +not planted every season. Perhaps the fact that the bulbs are valueless +after the first year may in a measure account for the comparatively +limited culture. They are easily flowered as pot plants in a mixture of +loam and leaf-mould, plunged in a bottom heat ranging between 60° and +70°. The growth is rather tall, and unless kept near the glass the +stems become unsightly in length. + +TULIP + +Culture in Pots.—When grown in pots, Tulips are treated in precisely +the same manner as the Hyacinth, but several bulbs, according to their +size and the purpose they are intended for, are placed in a pot. When +required to fill épergnes and baskets, and other elegant receptacles, +it is a good plan to grow them in shallow boxes, as recommended for +Crocuses, and transfer them when in flower to the vases and baskets. +This mode of procedure insures exactitude of height and colouring, +whereas, when the bulbs are grown from the first in the ornamental +vessels, they may not flower with sufficient uniformity to produce a +satisfactory display. In common with the Hyacinth and Crocus, Tulips +may be taken out of the soil in which they have been grown, and after +washing the roots clean, they can be inserted in glasses for decorating +an apartment. Early Tulips are often employed in this way to light up +festive gatherings at Christmas and the early months of the year. But +the pot culture of Tulips need not be restricted to the early +varieties. The Darwin and May-flowering classes are also admirable when +grown in this way, but it is important they should not be hurried into +bloom. If placed in moderate heat and allowed ample time to develop, +beautiful long-stemmed flowers may be had in March which will make a +charming decoration for the drawing-room or the dinner-table. + +Culture in Moss-fibre.—No bulb excels the Tulip in adaptability for +bowl culture, given the treatment suggested for Narcissi and Daffodils +on page 345, and particularly with respect to moisture. + +Culture in the Open Ground.—For general usefulness the early Tulips are +the most valuable of all, because of their peculiarly accommodating +nature, their many and brilliant colours, and their suitability for the +formation of rich masses in the flower garden. Any good soil will suit +them, and they may be planted in quantities under trees if the position +enjoys some amount of sunshine, because they will have finished their +growth before the leafage of the trees shades them injuriously. If it +is necessary to prepare or improve the soil for them, the aim should be +to render it rich and sandy, and sufficiently drained to avoid a boggy +character in winter. Plant in October or November, four or five inches +deep, and six inches apart. The roots require no water and no supports, +and may all be taken up and stored away in good time for the usual +summer display of bedding plants. For geometric planting it is +important to select the varieties with care, but a most interesting +border may be made by planting clumps of all the best sorts of the +several classes. The result will be a long-continued and splendid +display, beginning with the ‘Van Thols’ (which are as hardy as any), +following with the early class in almost endless variety, and finishing +with the noble Darwin and May-flowering sections. The last named +include a very large number of extremely handsome flowers, and their +lasting beauty is of especial value at a season of the year when spring +blooms are over and summer plants have scarcely begun to make a show. + +As cut flowers Tulips are worthy of special attention. With very little +care they not only maintain their full beauty in vases for a fortnight, +but some of them actually increase in brilliancy of colouring. The +May-flowering classes are perhaps the most appreciated for cutting, +because of their great length of stem and the enduring character of the +flowers. They are extremely beautiful in tall vases. + +VALLOTA PURPUREA + +This brilliant plant is nearly hardy in the Southern counties, and a +cool greenhouse plant where it cannot be grown in the open border. To +produce fine specimens a firm loamy soil is necessary, with abundance +of water all the summer, and moderate supplies all the winter. The +bulbs flower more freely when somewhat pot-bound. Therefore they should +not be re-potted too often. Under these conditions feeding with clear +liquid manure is necessary once a week from the time the flower-buds +show until they begin to open. To dry off the bulb may weaken or kill +it. Those who cannot cultivate the Amaryllis will find the Vallota an +excellent substitute. + +VIOLET, DOG’S-TOOTH—_see page 327_ + +WINTER ACONITE + +The Winter Aconite is the very ‘firstling’ of the year, for it blooms +in advance of the Snowdrop, covering the ground with gilt spangles in +the bleakest days of February. Any soil or situation will suit it, and +it should be planted in large patches where a winter’s walk in the +garden affords pleasure. It should also be grown in quantity within +view from the windows, for the benefit of those who, in the dreary +season, cannot get out. The bulbs may be left in the ground for several +years, or they may be taken up and stored after the leaves have +perished. + +ZEPHYRANTHES CANDIDA + +Flower of the West Wind + +A dwarf white Crocus-like flower, with foliage resembling the common +Rush on a small scale. Plant in clumps from November to March in +borders, and it will commence blooming about the end of July, and +continue in flower until frost cuts it down. Any soil will suit this +plant, and it thrives for several years if left undisturbed. + + + + +FLOWERS ALL THE YEAR ROUND FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS + + +Before proceeding to the duties which need attention in successive +months of the year, it may be worth while to consider some of the +points which constitute the alphabet of flower culture. To grow any +plant in a pot is an artificial proceeding, and the conditions for its +sustenance and health have to be provided. Among these conditions are +temperature and accommodation. It is useless to attempt to grow flowers +which require heat unless that necessity can be met. And it is equally +useless to pot more plants than the space will accommodate when they +attain their full size. A limited number, well grown, will produce a +greater wealth of bloom, of finer quality, than a larger number which +become feeble from deficiency of space for development. Nevertheless, +there are many varieties raised in heat in the early months of the year +which can be grown and flowered in the most satisfactory manner, +without any kind of artificial aid, from sowings made in the open +ground during April or May. The flowering will be somewhat later than +from plants brought forward under glass; but as they receive no check +from the very commencement, they will not be greatly behind their +nursed relations; and they may even excel them in robust beauty, if +they are treated intelligently and with a generous hand. + +Good Soil for pot plants is not always obtainable at a reasonable cost, +and sometimes the materials at hand must be made to serve the purpose. +None the less is it true, that in proportion to the skill and +experience of the cultivator will be his desire to secure a supply of +loam, peat, and leaf-mould. Those who are capable of turning poor soil +to the best account are precisely the men who will be most anxious to +obtain the materials which are known to promote the luxuriant growth of +pot plants. + +The top spit of an old pasture makes capital potting soil. If taken +from light land, it need only be stacked for one year before use. A +heavy loam should be kept for at least two seasons, and in any case the +heap should be turned and re-made several times. A slight sprinkling of +soot between the layers of soil will be beneficial, and help to make it +distasteful to grubs, wireworms, and other vermin. The frequent turning +of the heap will not be wasted labour, for it equalises the quality, +and tends to sweeten the whole by exposing new surfaces to the +atmosphere; and this is a great aid to healthy growth. + +Many plants thrive in peat, or in soil of which peat is a constituent, +and some flowers cannot be grown without it. The peat may have to be +purchased from a distance, but there is no difficulty in obtaining it. + +A constant supply of decayed leaf-mould may possibly be arranged on the +spot by sweeping up leaves and making a fresh heap every fall. In due +time these leaves will decay and make useful potting soil. If this is +out of the question, the requisite quantity must be purchased. + +The preparation of soil for pot plants is frequently postponed until +the day on which it is actually required. This is a bad practice, and +results too often in the use of an improper proportion of the +materials, and perhaps in their defective admixture. In this, as in all +other operations connected with horticulture, the men who make all +requisite arrangements in advance will achieve the highest results. In +no pursuit of life is it more necessary to forecast coming wants than +in the culture of flowers. We will suppose that three or four weeks +hence many pots are to be filled with Primulas. The man who grows this +flower with any degree of enthusiasm will not defer the preparation of +the soil until the day arrives for potting the plants. He will +determine in advance the proportions of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, +have the whole thoroughly incorporated, and possibly sifted to remove +stones. With these may come away some undecayed fibres, which make +excellent material for laying over the crocks at the bottom of each +pot. Forethought of this kind is certain of an ample reward. + +Potting soil should also be in the right condition as to moisture. This +is not easy to describe, but it must handle freely, and yet there +should be no necessity for the immediate application of water after +sowing seeds or planting bulbs. In the event of the compost being too +dry, give it a soaking and allow it to rest for one or more days, +according to the time of year and the state of the atmosphere. + +Pots, new or old, should be soaked in water before use. They are very +porous, and by absorbing moisture from the soil they may at once make +it too dry, although in exactly the right condition before being placed +in the pots. And old pots ought never to be used until they have been +scrubbed quite clean. These may appear to be trivial matters, unworthy +of attention. They have, however, an influence on the health of plants, +and experienced growers know that a few apparent trifles make all the +difference between success and failure. Pots which are dirty, or +covered with green moss, prevent access of air, and tend to bring about +a sickly growth. Cleanliness in horticulture is valuable for its own +sake, and for the orderly routine it necessitates on the part of the +cultivator. + +Pots are known both by number and by size. They are sold by the ‘cast,’ +and a cast always consists of the distinguishing number. The following +are the numbers and sizes:— + +Number in Cast Inches +72 Inside diameter across top 2-1/2 +Small 60 ” ” 2-3/4 +Mid. 60 ” ” 3 +Large 60 ” ” 3-1/2 +Small 54 ” ” 4 +Large 54 ” ” 4-1/4 +Small 48 ” ” 4-3/4 +Large 48 ” ” 5 +40 ” ” 5-1/2 +32 ” ” 6-1/4 +28 ” ” 7 +24 ” ” 7-1/2 +16 ” ” 8-1/2 +12 ” ” 9-1/2 +8 ” ” 11 +6 ” ” 12-1/2 +4 ” ” 14 +2 ” ” 15-1/2 +1 ” ” 18 + +Watering is sometimes conducted on the principle that the usual time +has arrived, and therefore the plants must have water. But do they need +it? Press the fingers firmly on the surface; if particles of soil +adhere it is too dry. Or tap the pots smartly with the knuckles or with +a stick, when a clear and unmistakable answer will be obtained. Plants +differ widely in their demand for water. Some are very thirsty, others +require less frequent attention. The season of the year and the state +of the atmosphere have also to be considered, as well as the fact that +a heavy soil is more retentive of moisture than a lighter compost. A +watchful eye and a willing hand will seldom err on this point. The +water should always be of the same temperature as the house, otherwise +the plants will be constantly checked. A tank in the greenhouse meets +this requirement. In its absence, the watering-pots should be kept full +under the stage, and they will be ready when wanted. + +In the open ground, it is better to water a few plots thoroughly for +two or three successive evenings, and then have an interval, rather +than moisten the surface daily. The effect of constantly applying small +quantities of water is to encourage the surface growth of roots. Then, +if the sun shines fiercely on the soil, the first day of neglect +results in immense mischief. + +Drainage is easily managed. Into each pot put a crock almost the size +of the bottom, with the convex side upwards. There need be no niggling +to remove sharp angles, or to make the fragment shapely. Cover this +with smaller crocks, and these with moss, or in some cases with small +pieces of charcoal. If the compost has a proper admixture of sharp sand +or grit, free drainage will be insured, and yet the soil cannot be +washed through the pot. Silver sand is often employed, and there is +nothing better for the purpose. But the sweepings from gravel walks, +finely sifted, may be substituted. Road grit is often infested with +weed seeds. + +Ventilation is important, for a house full of plants cannot long be +kept closed with impunity. The lights should be opened whenever the +state of the weather may permit, and by doing this on the side opposite +to the quarter whence the wind blows it is frequently safe to give air +when it may be dangerous from other points of the compass; and it +should be done early in the day, before the sun gets hot. Often the +lights remain closed on a sunny morning until the atmosphere becomes +stifling; and then perhaps plants which have been made sensitive by +excess of heat are subjected to a killing draught. + +In managing Temperature, there should be no violent alternations of +heat and cold, for these bring speedy disaster; and, it is unwise to +employ more heat than is actually necessary. Deviations from this rule +are generally traceable to neglect. If the proper season for sowing +seed of some important flower has been allowed to pass, an attempt is +made to compensate for lost time by hurrying the growth in a forcing +temperature. Every needless degree of heat will be harmful, and result +in attenuated growth, poverty of colour, or in the attack of some +insect plague which the weakly plant seldom invites in vain. It is wise +always to employ the lowest temperature in which plants will flourish. +This necessitates the proper time for their full development, and will +result in a sturdy growth capable of yielding a bountiful display of +bloom. Occasionally it is requisite to force some special subject, such +as bulbs for Christmas festivities. Even then it is advisable to +augment the temperature very gradually, and to defer the employment of +its highest power until the latest possible moment. + +Plants are frequently taken straight from the forcing pit into a cold +room, to their utter ruin. A moment’s reflection will show the folly of +such a proceeding. They should be prepared for the change by gradual +transfer through lower temperatures; and if only a few hours are +occupied in the process it will help them to pass the ordeal with less +injury. + +It should be an established custom to examine the seed-pans at least +once every day, and morning is the best time for the task. If work has +to be done, there is the whole day to arrange for its accomplishment. +Whereas, if the visit is not made until evening, there may not remain +sufficient daylight to do what is necessary. Just as seedlings are +starting, a few hours’ neglect will render them weak and leggy. + +When transferring plants from seed-pans, it is usual to put them round +the edges of pots. This is no mere caprice, but is founded on the +well-ascertained fact that seedlings establish their roots with greater +readiness near the edge of the pot than away from it. + +In the following monthly notes, our principal object is to offer a +series of reminders which will insure the sowing of various flower +seeds and the planting of bulbs at their proper periods, and thus save +the disappointment of losing some important display for a whole season. +Those who have command of large resources will sow certain seeds a +month earlier than we recommend, and their intimate knowledge and +abundant facilities justify their practice. But we have especially in +view the possibilities for an amateur, and of gardens moderate in +extent, where appliances may not be of the most perfect kind. + +When seeds are once sown or bulbs potted, the work is before the +cultivator, and appeals mutely for attention. Therefore it is not our +purpose to give detailed and continuous instructions month by month for +every flower. Our remarks are limited to hints at the time for sowing +or planting, and to some few points which may subsequently appear to +demand notice. + +For convenience of reference, the subjects are presented alphabetically +under each month. + +JANUARY. + +In the open ground there is little or nothing of interest in the way of +flowers, but the greenhouses and pits are full of promise. A constant +watch must be kept on the barometer, and the materials for repelling +frost or bleak winds should be at perfect command, so that there may be +ample provision for saving plants from biting weather. + +Achimenes are stove bulbs and cannot be grown without a sufficiency of +heat. A warm greenhouse will answer for them, and some gardeners +produce fair specimens in frames over hot-beds. The bulbs will lie +dormant for a considerable time, so that it is easy to have a +succession of flowers. A few should be started in January, employing +sandy loam for the pots. Follow up with others at intervals. + +Amaryllis may be sown in any month of the year, but the most +satisfactory period is immediately after the seed is ripened, and it is +advisable to put one seed only in each small pot. The slow and +irregular germination of the finest new seed makes the separate system +almost a necessity. A rich compost, well-drained pots, and a +temperature of about 65° suit these plants. + +Anemone.—See remarks under October. + +Antirrhinums raised in heat now will flower from July onwards. Prick +off the seedlings, and gradually harden for planting out in May. There +are dwarf, medium, and tall varieties, of many beautiful colours. + +Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.—The grace and beauty of this plant have +placed it in the front rank of popular favourites. For the foliage +alone it is worth growing, and the flowers are unique in both form and +colour. Raising plants from seed is not only the least expensive +process, but it possesses all the charm arising from the hope of some +novelty which shall eclipse previously known varieties. As a matter of +fact, new attractions either in colour or in habit are introduced +almost every year. From a sowing made now plants should flower in July +and August. + +The seed is small, and requires careful handling. It is also slow and +capricious in germinating, and many growers have their own pet methods +of starting it. Good results are obtained by insuring free drainage, +and partly filling the pots with rather rough fibrous compost, covered +with a layer of fine sandy loam made even for a seed-bed. This is +sprinkled with water, and the seed is sown very thinly. Some +experienced growers make a rather loose surface, press the seed gently +into it, and do not finish with a covering of soil. The majority, +however, will find it safer to give a slight sifting of fine earth over +the seed. Then comes a trial of patience, and as the seedlings appear +at intervals, the wisdom of thin sowing will be apparent, for each one +can be lifted and potted as it becomes ready, without wasting the +remainder. An even temperature of about 65° is essential during +germination. + +Begonia bulbs which have been stored through the winter will need +careful watching. Not until they start naturally should there be any +attempt to induce growth, or in all probability it will result in the +destruction of the bulb. Such as show signs of life should be potted in +good soil, commencing with small pots, and shifting into larger sizes +as the pots become full of roots. Until the final size is reached, +remove all flowers. A warm humid atmosphere is favourable to them while +growing, but when flowering begins moisture will be injurious. + +Begonia, Fibrous-rooted, may also be sown at the end of this month or +in February, and again early in March. Under similar treatment to that +advised for Tuberous-rooted Begonias, the plants will be ready in June +for transfer to beds or as an edging to borders. + +Canna.—From the popular name of Indian Shot it will naturally be +inferred that the seed is extremely hard and spherical. It needs +soaking in water for about twenty-four hours before sowing. Even then +it will probably be a considerable time in germinating, and there will +also be variable intervals between the appearance of the seedlings. A +high temperature is necessary to insure a start; but after the young +plants are transferred to single pots, they should be kept steadily +going in a more moderate heat until ready for the border or +sub-tropical garden in June. Meanwhile they will need re-potting two or +three times, and should have a rich and rather stiff compost. + +Carnation.—Seed of the early-flowering class should be sown in heat +during this month and again in February. With very little trouble, +plants can be brought forward and transferred to the open ground, where +they will give a splendid display in about six months from the date of +sowing. + +Chrysanthemums of the large-flowering perennial type can easily be +raised from seed. If sown during this month or in February in a +moderate heat, the plants will flower the first season. Pot the +seedlings immediately they are ready, then harden, and put them out of +doors as early as may be safe. This treatment will keep them dwarf and +robust. Seedlings should not be stopped, but be allowed to grow quite +naturally. + +Cinerarias should have air whenever it is possible. Choose the middle +of the day for watering, and do not slop the water about carelessly, or +mildew may result. In houses which are not lighted all round, the +plants should be turned regularly to prevent them from facing one way. +Such specimens are worthless for the dinner-table, and will be +diminished in value for decorating the drawing-room. + +Cyclamens are still in the height of their beauty. The pots have become +so full of roots that ordinary watering partially fails of its purpose. +An occasional immersion of the pots for about half an hour will result +in marked benefit to the plants. The flowers, when taken from the corm, +should be lifted by a smart pull. If cut, the stems bleed and exhaust +the root. + +Where a succession of this flower is valued, a sowing should be made in +this month. Dibble the seed, an inch apart and a quarter of an inch +deep, in pots or pans firmly filled with rich porous soil; and place in +heat of not less than 56° and not exceeding 70°; the less the +temperature varies the better. Cyclamen seed is both slow and irregular +in germinating, and sometimes proves a sore trial even to those who are +blessed with patience. As the seedlings become ready transfer to small +pots, and shift on as growth demands, always keeping the crown of the +corm free from soil. The increasing power of the sun will render +shading essential; yet a position near the glass is most advantageous +to the plants. + +Freesia.—This elegant and delicately perfumed flower is annually raised +in large numbers from seed. From this month to March sowings may be +made in heat, and as the roots are extremely brittle, re-potting is a +delicate operation. + +Gesnera.—Those who have once grown this handsome conservatory plant +will not afterwards consent to be without it. The richly marked foliage +contrasts admirably with the flowers. Sow in the manner advised for +Gloxinia, and the two plants may be grown in the same house. + +Gloxinia.—From two or three sowings, and by a little management, it is +easy to have a supply of this magnificent flower in every month of the +year. Sow thinly in new pots filled with a light porous compost, and +see that the drainage is exceptionally good. Give the pots a warm moist +position, and a light sprinkling of water daily will assist +germination. The first seedlings that are ready should be lifted and +pricked off without disturbing the remainder of the soil. Follow up the +process until all are transferred. Although the leaves may rest on the +surface, the hearts should never be covered. Pot off singly when large +enough, and shift on until the 48-size is reached. For ordinary plants +this is large enough, but extra fine specimens need more pot room, and +so long as increased space is given the flowering will be deferred. +Between the plants there must be a clear space or the leaves will decay +through contact. While growing, a moist atmosphere, with a temperature +of 60° or 65 °, will suit them; but immediately flowering commences, +humidity is a source of mischief. The most forward plants from this +month’s sowing will, if well treated, begin to flower in June. + +Grevillea robusta.—Seed of this exceedingly handsome shrub may be sown +at any time of the year, and the pots containing it must be kept moist +until the seedlings appear. How long it will be before they become +visible we cannot tell. Germination may not occur until hope has died, +and the pots have been contemptuously relegated to some obscure corner. +But after the young plants are pricked off, they will give no trouble, +except to re-pot them two or three times, and to take care that they do +not perish for want of water. + +Hollyhock.—This stately border flower is occasionally grown and +flowered as an annual, and some gardeners succeed in producing +satisfactory plants, carrying fine double blossoms, superb in colour +and of noble proportions. Where this method is possible it is necessary +to sow in the opening month of the year, and to use well-drained pots +or seed-pans. Cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine soil, and place +in a temperature of 65° or 700. In about a fortnight the seedlings will +be ready for pricking off round the edges of 4 1/2-inch pots. But as a +rule the finest spikes are obtained from a sowing in July or August. + +Petunia.—About the third week of this month a sowing should be made to +produce plants for indoor decoration. Late in February or early in +March will be soon enough to prepare for bedding stuff. Sow thinly in +good porous soil, and give the pots or pans a temperature of about 60°. +They should have a little extra attention just as the seed is +germinating, for that is a critical time with Petunias. Uniformity in +temperature and moisture, with shade when necessary, and plenty of pot +room, are the secrets of success in growing these plants. + +Statice.—The Sea Lavenders make attractive border subjects, but the +sprays of flowers are probably still more valued for cutting and, when +dried, for the winter decoration of vases in association with +Everlastings. Seed of the half-hardy varieties may be sown from January +to March in gentle heat, transferring the plants to the open in due +course. + +Verbena.—This flower should be grown with as little artificial aid as +possible. In fact, the more nearly it is treated as a hardy plant the +more vigorous and free blooming will it be. A temperature of 60° is +sufficient to raise the seed at this period of the year; and after the +plants are established in pots, heat may be gradually dispensed with. +Sow in pans or boxes filled with rich, mellow, and very sweet soil. +Transfer to thumb pots when large enough, and give one more shift as +growth demands, until the plants are ready for bedding out in May. +There is a choice of distinct colours, which come true from seed. Green +fly is very partial to the Verbena, especially while in pots; it must +be kept down, or the seedlings will make no progress. + +FEBRUARY + +A Considerable number of important flowers should be sown during this +month. The precise dates depend on the district, the character of the +season, and the resources of the cultivator. Should the month open with +frost, or with rough, wet weather, it will be wise to exercise a little +patience. Where there are insufficient means for battling with sudden +variations of temperature, choose the end rather than the beginning of +the month for starting tender subjects. Govern the work by intelligent +observation, instead of following hard and fast rules. But in no case +should fear of the weather form an excuse for the postponement of +necessary work. + +Annuals and Biennials, Hardy.—It is one of the merits of hardy annuals +and biennials sown in late summer for blooming in the following spring +that they need very little attention. Still, they ought not to be +entirely neglected. They should be kept scrupulously free from weeds, +and it may be evident that a mulch of decayed manure is necessary to +protect and strengthen them for a rich display of colour in the spring. +Such varieties as have to be transplanted should be watched, and the +first suitable opportunity seized for transferring them to flowering +positions. + +Abutilon is a flowering greenhouse shrub which answers well under the +treatment of an annual. It does not need a forcing temperature at any +stage, nor is the plant fastidious as to soil. The seed, which is both +slow and irregular in germinating, may be sown in pots. As the young +plants become ready they should be pricked off and kept steadily +growing. When leaves drop, it indicates mismanagement, perhaps +starvation. A well-grown specimen, when the buds show, will be two feet +high, and bear examination all round. + +Anemone.—Against the practice of planting roots of this elegant flower +we have not a word to say. On the contrary, there is much to be +advanced in its favour. Arrangements of colour can be secured which are +impossible of attainment from seedlings. Still, there can be no doubt +that the supposed necessity of depending alone on bulbs has proved a +barrier to the growth of Anemones in many gardens, and on a large +scale. The culture from seed is of the simplest character, no +appliances whatever beyond those at the command of the cottager being +needed. The prime requisite is a rich moist soil. Where this does not +exist naturally, a liberal dressing of mellow cow-manure, and, in dry +weather, a diligent employment of the water-can, will render it +possible to grow superb flowers of brilliant colour. The best way of +making the seed-bed is to open a trench, putting a layer of decayed +manure at the bottom, and mingling a further quantity with the soil +when it is returned. The addition of some light compost or sand to the +surface may or may not be necessary to prepare it for the seed. We +prefer sowing in rows and lightly scratching the seed in. Some growers +only sift a little sand over, and the practice answers well. Weeds must +be removed with care until the seedlings appear, and these are a long +time in coming. Thinning to six inches apart, and keeping the bed clean +and moist, constitute the whole remainder of the work of growing +Anemones. + +Aquilegia sown this month in a frame will produce plants which may +flower later in the year, provided the season is favourable; but they +will certainly pay for this early sowing in the succeeding spring. The +plant is quite hardy, therefore seed may be sown later on in the open +for a display in the following year. + +Asparagus (_Greenhouse foliage varieties_).—The finely feathered sprays +of _A. plumosus_ have become indispensable for bouquets, buttonholes, +and general decorative purposes. _A. decumbens_ and _A. Sprengeri_ are +most graceful plants in hanging-baskets. Seed of the three varieties +should be sown in heat in either February or March. + +Auricula.—The Show Auricula is one of the reigning beauties of the +floral world, and, like the Rose, has its own special exhibitions. +Although the flower merits all the admiration it receives, yet it must +be confessed that some amateurs indulge in a great deal of needless +coddling in the work of raising it. One quality there must be in the +grower, and that is patience; for seed saved from a single plant in any +given season, and sown at one time, will germinate in the most +irregular manner. Months may elapse between the appearance of the first +and the last plant. The lesson to sow thinly is obvious, so that the +seedlings may be lifted as they become ready, without disturbing the +surrounding soil. Both the Show and the Alpine varieties should be sown +in pans filled with a mixture of sweet sandy loam and leaf-mould. They +may be started in gentle heat, but this is quite optional. The Auricula +is thoroughly hardy against cold, and glass is only employed as a +protection against wind, heavy rain, and atmospheric deposits. + +Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.—Seed may still be sown for a summer display. +Transplant seedlings which are ready, and later on pot them singly. + +Calceolaria, Shrubby.—Seeds sown in pans placed in a frame or a +greenhouse of moderate temperature will insure plants for outdoor +summer decoration. Transfer the seedlings to pots quite early. + +Campanula.—By sowing seed in gentle heat during February many of the +Campanulas will flower the same season. These hardy plants require but +little heat, and they should be given as much light and air as +possible. They may be grown on in pots for the decoration of rooms or +the conservatory, or planted out on good ground in the open border. The +half-hardy trailing variety, _C. fragilis_, is specially adapted for +suspended baskets or large vases. Seed is generally sown in February or +March; when ready the seedlings are transferred to pots. + +Celosia plumosa.—Seed may be sown either now or in March, and the +routine recommended for Cockscombs will develop splendid plumes. Re-pot +in good time to prevent the roots from growing through the bottoms of +the pots. + +Cockscomb.—The ideal Cockscomb is a dwarf, well-furnished plant, with +large, symmetrical, and intensely coloured combs. Seed of a first-class +strain will produce a fair proportion of such plants in the hands of a +man who understands their treatment. Sow in seed-pans filled with rich, +sweet, friable loam, and place in a brisk temperature. Transfer the +seedlings very early to small pots, and shift on until the size is +reached in which they are to flower. Directly they become root-bound +the combs will be formed. + +Cosmea.—To prevent the disappointment which is sometimes experienced by +growers of this attractive half-hardy annual, it is essential to sow a +reliable early-flowering strain. Start the seed on a gentle hot-bed in +February and plant out the seedlings in May or June when the danger +from frost is past. + +Dahlia.—Both the double and single classes can be grown and flowered +from seed as half-hardy annuals. A sowing in this month will supply +plants sufficiently forward to bloom at the usual time. Some growers +begin in January, and provided they have room and the work can be +followed up without risking a check at any stage, no objection can be +raised to the practice. For most gardens, however, February is safer, +and March will not be too late. Sow thinly in pots or pans filled with +light rich soil, and finish with a very thin covering of fine +leaf-mould. When the seedlings are about an inch high, pot them +separately, taking special care of the weakly specimens, for these in +point of colour may prove to be the gems of the collection. After +transplanting, a little extra attention will help them to a fresh +start. + +Dianthus.—From sowings made this month or in January, all the varieties +may be raised in about 55° or 60° of heat, but immediately the seed has +germinated it is important to put the pots in a lower temperature, or +the seedlings will become soft. They should also be transferred to +seed-pans when large enough to handle. + +Fuchsia.—It is now widely known that Fuchsias can be satisfactorily +flowered from seed in six or seven months, and from a good strain there +will be seedlings well worth growing. Sow thinly on a rich firm soil, +and give the pots a temperature of about 70°. While quite small +transfer the plants to the edges of well-drained pots, and later on pot +them singly into a compost consisting chiefly of leaf-mould until the +flowering size is reached, when a proportion of decayed cow-manure +should be added. The Fuchsia is a gross feeder, and must have abundance +of food and water. Aphis and thrips are persistent enemies of this +plant, and will need constant attention. + +Geranium seed may be sown at any time of the year, but there are good +reasons why the months of February and August should be chosen. +Seedlings raised now will make fine plants by the end of June, and +begin to flower in August. They are robust in habit, and from a +reliable strain there will be a considerable proportion of handsome +specimens. Sow in pans filled with soil somewhat rough in texture, and +the surface need not be very smooth. Lightly cover the seed with fine +loam. To have plants ready for flowering in the summer it will be +necessary to give the seed-pans a temperature of 60° or 70°, and follow +the usual practice of pricking off and potting the seedlings. + +Gladiolus.—It is not common to grow this noble flower from seed, but +the task is simple, and seed good enough to be worth the experiment is +obtainable. In large pots, well drained and filled with fibrous loam +and leaf-mould, dibble the seeds separately an inch apart and half an +inch deep. A temperature of 65° or 70° will bring them up, and when +they reach an inch high the heat should be gradually reduced. The +seedlings need not be transplanted, but may remain in the same pots +until the grass dies down, and the corms are sifted out in September or +October. + +Gloxinia.—The directions under January are applicable, but it will be +necessary to provide shade for the seedlings as the sun becomes hot, +especially after they have been re-potted. + +Kochia trichophylla.—A beautiful half-hardy ornamental annual shrub, +symmetrical in form. From seed sown during this month or in March +plants can easily be raised for indoor decoration or to furnish a +supply for beds and borders. When well grown and allowed plenty of +space from the beginning, each specimen forms a dense mass of bright +green foliage which changes to russet-crimson in autumn. + +Lobelias occupy a foremost place for bedding, and are sufficiently +diversified to meet many requirements. Indeed, there is no other blue +flower which can challenge its position. The compact class is specially +adapted for edgings; the spreading varieties answer admirably in +borders where a sharply defined line of colour is not essential; the +_gracilis_ strain has a charming effect in suspended baskets, +window-boxes, and rustic work; and the _ramosa_ section grows from nine +to twelve inches high, producing large flowers. All these may be sown +now as annuals, to produce plants for bedding out in May. Put the seed +into sandy soil, and start the pans in a gentle heat. + +Mimulus, if sown now and treated as a greenhouse annual, will flower in +the first year. It is one of the thirstiest plants grown in this +country, and must have unstinted supplies of water. + +Nicotiana.—Where sub-tropical gardening is practised the Tobacco plant +is indispensable. To develop its fine proportions there must be the +utmost liberality of treatment from the commencement. Either in this +month or early in March sow in rich soil, and place the pans in a warm +house or pit. Put the seedlings early into small pots, and promote a +rapid but sturdy growth, until the weather is warm enough for them in +the open ground. The Nicotiana also makes an admirable pot plant for +the conservatory or greenhouse, where it is especially valued for its +delightful fragrance. + +Pansy.—Although the Pansy will grow almost anywhere, a moist, rich +soil, partially shaded from summer sun, is necessary to do the plant +full justice. Many distinct colours are saved separately, and the +quality of the seedlings is so good that propagation by cuttings is +gradually declining. Sow thinly in pots or pans, and when the young +plants have been pricked off, put them in a cool, safe corner until +large enough for bedding out. The soil should be plentifully dressed +with decayed cow-manure. + +Pelargonium.—In raising seedling Pelargoniums, it is well to bear in +mind that worthless seed takes just as much time and attention as does +a first-class strain. The simplest greenhouse culture will suffice to +bring the plants to perfection. A light sandy loam suits them, and the +pots need not go beyond the 48-or at most the 32-size. Flowering will +be deferred until re-potting ceases. + +Petunia.—Towards the end of the month the seedlings raised in January +for pot culture will be ready for transferring to seed-pans. It will +also be time to sow for bedding plants, although the beginning of March +is not too late. + +Phlox Drummondii.—The attention devoted to this flower has made it one +of the most varied and brilliant half-hardy annuals we possess. The +_grandiflora_ section includes numerous splendid bedding subjects which +flower freely, and continue in bloom for a long period. These and +others are also valuable as pot plants, and even in the greenhouse or +conservatory they are conspicuous for their rich colours. All the +varieties may be sown now in well-drained pans or shallow boxes. Press +the seeds into good soil about an inch apart, and as a rule this will +save transplanting; but if transplanting becomes necessary, take out +alternate plants and put into other pans, or pot them separately. The +remainder will then have room to grow until the time arrives for +bedding out. + +Polyanthus.—Either now or in March sow in pans filled with any fairly +good potting soil, and do not be impatient about the germination of the +seed. Many sowings of good seed have been thrown away because it was +not known that the Polyanthus partakes of the slow and irregular +characteristics of this class of plants. As the seedlings become ready, +lift them carefully and transplant into pans or boxes, from which a +little later they may be moved to any secluded corner of the border, +until in September they are put into flowering quarters. While in the +seed-pans they must be kept moist, although excessive watering is to be +avoided. Should the summer prove dry, they will also need water when in +the open ground. + +Primroses of good colours are admirably adapted for indoor decoration, +and there is no occasion to grow them in pots for the purpose. Lift the +required number from the reserve border without exposing the roots; pot +them, and place in a cool frame until established. Plenty of space, no +more water than is absolutely essential, and progressive ventilation, +comprise all the needful details of cultivation. Seed sown in this +month or in March, in pans or boxes, will produce fine plants for +flowering in the succeeding year. + +Primula.—The elegant half-hardy varieties _P. obconica grandiflora_ and +_P. malacoides_ may be sown any time from February to July, the +earliest of which will commence flowering in the succeeding autumn and +winter. The aim should be to keep the plants as hardy as possible, +giving them air whenever conditions are favourable. + +Ranunculus.—Although it is not usual to grow this flower from seed, it +is both easy and interesting to do so. Sow in boxes containing from +four to six inches of soil, and as there need be no transplanting, each +seed should be put in separately, about an inch and a half apart. A +cool greenhouse or frame will supply the requisite conditions for +growing the seedlings. When the foliage has died down, sift out the +roots, and store in dry peat or cocoa-nut fibre for the winter. + +To secure an immediate display of Ranunculuses it is necessary to plant +mature roots. The soil in which they especially thrive is an adhesive +loam or clay. This happens to be unfavourable to their safety in the +winter, and therefore it is wise to defer planting in such soils until +this month. A very simple procedure will suffice to produce handsome, +richly coloured flowers. If possible, choose for the bed a heavy soil +in an open situation, and dress it liberally with decayed manure. Give +the land a deep digging, and lay it up rough, that it may be benefited +by frosts. In January and February fork it lightly over several times, +with the double purpose of making it mellow and of enabling birds to +clear it of vermin. Traps made of hollowed Potatoes will also assist +the latter object. Not later than the third week of February the roots +should be planted in drills drawn six inches apart and two inches deep. +Put them at intervals of four inches in the rows, with the claws +downwards, and cover with fine soil. Keep the bed free from weeds, and +give abundant supplies of water in dry weather. When the foliage is +dead, lift the roots and store for the next season. + +The Turban Ranunculus is less delicate than the named varieties, and +there need be less hesitation about autumn planting. + +Ricinus.—The Castor-oil Plant is largely cultivated for its striking +ornamental foliage, and under generous treatment it will attain from +four to six feet in height. It is a half-hardy annual, and should be +grown in the same manner as Nicotiana. + +Salpiglossis merits its increasing popularity. A sowing at the end of +this month or the beginning of March will insure plants in condition +for the open ground in May. A moderate hot-bed is requisite now, but in +April the seed may be sown on prepared borders for a summer display of +the veined and pencilled flowers. + +Solanum.—The varieties which are grown for winter decoration are much +prized when laden with their bright-coloured berries. Sow the several +kinds in heat, and transfer the seedlings straight to single pots +filled with very rich soil. + +Stock, Intermediate.—To form a succession to the Summer-flowering, or +Ten-week, varieties in July and August, seed of the Intermediate Stocks +should be sown in gentle heat during February or March. The treatment +accorded to Ten-week Stocks, described on page 379, will suit the +Intermediate varieties also. + +Sweet Peas have in recent years become such an important ornament to +the garden and the flowers are so highly prized for household use that +no effort is spared to insure a long-continued display. With this +object in view seeds are sown in pots and the seedlings transplanted, +as soon as weather permits, to the ground specially prepared in the +preceding autumn. Those who did not sow in September should do so in +the latter part of January or during February. A forcing temperature is +injurious, and the plants thrive best when given practically hardy +treatment. + +Vallota purpurea.—This handsome bulbous plant is not quite hardy, but +in several of the Southern counties it may be grown in the open ground, +with only the shelter of dry litter or a mat. In pots the bulbs should +not be allowed to go dry through the winter; and when growth commences +in spring, water must be given freely. Good loam suits the Vallota, and +it is desirable to avoid re-potting until the flowering period has +passed: when a transfer becomes necessary, disturb the roots as little +as possible. + +Verbena, if not sown last month, should be got in promptly, for it is +important not to hurry the growth of this plant by excessive heat. + +Wigandia is a half-hardy perennial, grown exclusively for its noble +tropical foliage. If started now, it will attain a large size as an +annual. It is impossible to grow this plant too well. A lavish +employment of manure and water will secure stately specimens. The +instructions given for Ricinus apply equally to the Wigandia. + +MARCH + +The first duty is to ascertain that there are no arrears to make good +or failures-to replace. If any sowing has gone wrong, do not waste time +by repining over it, but sow again. Growing flowers under artificial +conditions is a prolonged struggle with Nature, in which the most +experienced and skilful gardener need not be ashamed of an occasional +failure. But the cause of the failure should, if possible, be +ascertained for future guidance. We say if possible, because the secret +cannot always be discovered. There may have been every apparent +condition of success, and yet, for some inexplicable reason, there has +been disappointment. As a rule, however, the cause will be found by the +man who is determined to make every failure the stepping-stone to +future success. + +The lengthening days and the growing power of the sun demand increased +vigilance and activity. Danger of frost remains, and, worse still, +there may come the withering influence of the north-east wind, which +scorches delicate seedlings as with a breath of fire. + +Annuals, Hardy, may be sown in the open from February to May. Perhaps a +list of the principal flowers comprised under this denomination may aid +the memory. Several of the following are not strictly hardy, but for +practical ends they may be so regarded. + +Abronia +Acroclinium +*Alyssum +*Asperula +Bartonia +*Cacalia +Calandrinia +Calendula +Candytuft +Centranthus +Chrysanthemum, +annual +Clarkia +Collinsia +Collomia +Convolvulus minor +Coreopsis +Cornflower +Dimorphotheca +Erysimum +Eschscholtzia +Eutoca +Gilia +Godetia +*Gypsophila +Hawkweed +Helichrysum +Hibiscus +Jacobea +Kaulfussia +*Larkspur +*Lavatera +Layia +*Leptosiphon +Leptosyne +Limnanthes +Linaria +Linum +Love-lies-bleeding +*Lupinus +Malope +Marigold +*Mathiola +*Mignonette +Nasturtium +Nemophila +Nigella +Phacelia +Platystemon +*Poppy +Prince’s Feather +Rudbeckia +Salpiglossis +Sanvitalia +Saponaria +Silene +Sunflower +Swan River Daisy +Sweet Pea +Sweet Sultan +Venus’ Looking-glass +Venus’ Navel-wort +*Virginian Stock +Viscaria +Whitlavia +Xeranthemum + +Hardy annuals are worth better treatment than they sometimes receive. +They may be sown at once where they are intended to bloom, and for the +varieties preceded by an asterisk this method is a necessity, because +they do not well bear transplanting. In every case sow thinly, and +afterwards thin boldly, for many of the flowers named will occupy a +diameter of one or even two feet if the soil is in a condition to do +them justice. Give the ground a deep digging and incorporate plenty of +manure, except where Nasturtium is to be sown. A rather poor soil is +necessary for this annual, or the flowers will be hidden by excessive +foliage. + +Abutilon.—There is yet time to raise plants for blooming in the current +year. The seedlings must be potted on regularly to render them robust +and free-flowering. + +Aster.—Only those who are closely acquainted with the modern +development of this handsome flower can have any conception of its +varied forms and colours. There are dwarf, medium, and tall varieties +in almost endless diversity, and nearly all of them will be a credit to +any garden if well grown. Too often, however, flowers are seen which +are a mere caricature of what Asters may become in the hands of men who +understand their requirements. To grow them to perfection the ground +should be trenched in the previous autumn, where the soil is deep +enough to justify the operation. If not, the digging must be deep, and +plenty of decayed manure should be worked in. Leave the ground roughly +exposed to the disintegrating effects of winter frosts; and in spring +it should be lightly forked over once or twice to produce a friable +condition, in which the roots will ramify freely and go down to the +buried manure for stimulating food. If by such means stiff land can be +made mellow, it will grow Asters of magnificent size and colour. + +In sowing it is not wise to rely on a single effort. We advise at least +two sowings; and three are better, even if only a few plants are +wanted. This diminishes the risk of failure and prolongs the flowering +season. Prepare a compost of leaf-mould and loam, mixed with sharp sand +to insure drainage. Towards the end of the month sow in pots or in +seed-pans on an even surface; and we lay stress on a thin sowing, to +avoid the danger of the seedlings damping off. Barely cover the seed +with finely sifted soil, and place sheets of glass on the pans or pots +to check rapid evaporation. If water must be given, immerse the pots +for a sufficient time, instead of using the water-can. A cool +greenhouse, vinery, or a half-spent hotbed is a good position for the +pans, and a range of temperature from 55° to 65° should be regarded as +the outside limits of variation. + +Auricula.—Seed may still be sown; indeed, April will not be too late. +Partially submerging the pans when water is needed saves many seeds +from being washed out and wasted. + +Balsam.—- Although this flower comes from a tropical climate, it is not +very tender; a gentle hot-bed is quite sufficient to bring up the seed. +Two or three sowings are advisable to secure a succession of bloom, and +for the first of them the middle of this month is the proper time. It +is important that the soil for this plant should be light, rich, and +very sweet. When the seedlings show their first rough leaves, lose no +time in pricking them off, and they should afterwards be potted early +enough to promote a dwarf habit. + +Calceolaria.—- Plants from last year’s sowing will begin to move, and +should be shifted into their final pots before the buds show. The +eight-inch size ought to contain very fine specimens. The compost for +them should be prepared with care several days before use. Put the +plants in firmly, and place them in a light airy greenhouse. As soon as +the pots are filled with roots an occasional dose of manure water will +be beneficial until the flowers begin to show colour, when pure soft +water alone will be required. Tie out the plants some time before the +buds attain full size. + +Clerodendron fallax.—A charming stove plant, producing large heads of +bright scarlet flowers suitable for greenhouse decoration. From seed +sown in March or April there should be a show of bloom in August or +September following. + +Coleus is strictly a stove perennial. But our short winter days do not +maintain a rich colour, and it will in almost every instance give more +satisfaction if treated as an annual, enjoying the beautiful and varied +foliage during summer and autumn, and consigning the plants to the +waste-heap as wintry days draw near. We do not advise the sowing of +seed earlier than March, because a considerable amount of daylight is +necessary to the development of rich tints and diversified markings in +the foliage. The essentials for raising plants from seed are good +drainage, a temperature which does not fall below 65°, the careful +employment of water, and the early transfer of the seedlings. The green +plants may be thrown away immediately they reveal their character, but +those which show delicate tints in the small leaves will abundantly +compensate for all the care bestowed upon them. + +Dianthus.—Put the seedlings into single pots, and harden in readiness +for transplanting to the open in May or June. + +Dimorphotheca.—This valuable half-hardy annual, a native of South +Africa, known also as the Star of the Veldt, may be flowered within six +weeks from time of sowing. Plants may be raised by starting seed this +month or in April, in pans of light soil given the protection of a +frame. Transplant in May, in well-drained soil, choosing a warm sunny +spot. In the open, seed may safely be sown in May or June. Plants +potted on from the early sowing will make a most attractive show in the +conservatory, or seed may be sown in pots and the seedlings thinned to +three or four in each. + +Gaillardia.—To secure a supply of plants for the open ground in May, +seed of all the varieties may be sown during this month. Prick off +early and keep them dwarf. + +Geum.—From seed sown this month or in April, the popular double +variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, may be brought into flower in the first year. +The seedlings should be pricked off into boxes and gradually hardened +for putting out in May or June. + +Gladiolus.—This is one of the most stately and beautiful flowers grown +in our gardens. Some of the varieties are strikingly brilliant; others +are exceedingly delicate in tint and refined in their markings. The +culture may be of the most primitive kind, or it may become one of the +fine arts of horticulture. Simply put into the ground and left to fight +their own battle, the corms sometimes produce splendid spikes of +flower, although not so imposing as better culture might have made +them. Under skilful care the flowers are magnificent in size and +colour. + +The main work of preparing the ground should be done in autumn. Now it +is only necessary to give the soil two or three light forkings, and +those not deep enough to bring the buried manure to the surface. This +frequent stirring is beneficial in itself, and it promotes the +destruction of the foes which prey upon Gladiolus roots. Small +Potatoes, roughly hollowed out, or pieces of Carrot, may be used as +traps for wireworm and other vermin. Planting is sometimes done at the +end of this month, but as a rule it is better to wait until the +beginning of April. + +Gloxinia.—There is yet time to secure a brilliant summer display from +seed. Bulbs which have been stored through the winter need attention. +Where these flowers are wanted early, and there is plenty of room, a +commencement will probably be made in February; but in the greater +number of gardens March is soon enough. Assuming the bulbs to be sound, +they should be potted in a mixture of loam, peat, and sand. Those which +start first must be re-potted for a forward supply. While growing, +manure water twice a week will help to produce fine flowers, intense in +colour; but when the flowers open, the liquid manure must be abandoned, +and pure soft water be given as often as necessary, for Gloxinias +cannot endure drought. Shading is an important matter from the +commencement, and particularly during the flowering period. + +Hollyhock seedlings will be ready for putting into thumb pots. Directly +they are established, begin to prepare them for planting out in May. + +Impatiens.—Some growers find a little difficulty in raising this +elegant flower from seed. Probably it arises from sowing too early. +Where there is a command of sufficient heat no trouble should be +experienced in March, and it is essential to sow very thinly for two +reasons. Crowded seedlings are liable to damp off, particularly in +dull, moist weather, and they are so fragile that it is well-nigh +impossible to transfer them from the seed-pots until they are about an +inch high. + +Lavatera.—As the Mallows do not transplant well it is desirable to sow +in the flowering positions. Good ground is necessary to insure fine +specimens, and ample space must be allowed for the plants to develop. +The seed may be sown from March to May. + +Lobelia.—The perennial varieties make splendid border plants, and are +easily grown from seed. Sow during February or March, in moderate heat, +and in due time transfer to a deep rich loam. Their dark metallic +foliage and brilliant flowers are most conspicuous, and admirably fit +them for the back row of a ribbon border, or for groups in the mixed +border. + +Lupinus.—Seed of the annual varieties may be put in from March to May, +and it is necessary to sow where required for flowering, as +transplanting is not satisfactory. The perennial Lupines may also be +flowered as annuals by sowing seed in March or April. + +Marigold.—Both the African and French varieties are of importance late +in the season, for they continue to bloom until cut down by frost. The +former reaches the height of from eighteen to thirty inches, and the +colour is limited to yellow in several shades, from pale lemon to deep +orange. The latter is more varied in habit as well as in colour, and +the Miniatures make excellent bedding plants. In hot dry seasons +Marigolds entirely eclipse Calceolarias, because they can well endure +drought and a short supply of food; whereas the Shrubby Calceolaria +does not thrive under such conditions. All the varieties of Tagetes may +be sown now on a moderate heat, and they should be pricked off into +pans or boxes in readiness for transferring to the open ground in May. + +Marvel of Peru.—The treatment prescribed for Balsam will suit this +plant. In the first year it will grow to a considerable size, but will +not, as a rule, attain to its full dimensions until the second season. +It is a half-hardy perennial, and when saved through the winter will +need protection from frost. + +Mignonette finds a welcome in every English garden; and to add to its +attractiveness there are now yellow, red, and white varieties, in +addition to such forms as dwarf, pyramidal, and spiral. Mignonette can +be grown without the least difficulty; indeed, it will reproduce itself +from seed shed in the previous year. Nevertheless, it is true that in +the majority of gardens justice is seldom done to this flower, for the +simple reason that there is not sufficient faith in its capabilities. +Each plant will cover a space of at least one foot, and we have seen +specimens a yard across, bristling with flower-spikes which are +delightfully fragrant. The soil for it should be made firm, just as an +Onion bed is treated. Except for this one point, the culture of a hardy +annual is all that is necessary. Mignonette does not transplant +successfully, but otherwise it is very accommodating. The seedlings are +frequently taken off by fly as fast as they appear above ground. Soot +and wood-ashes applied in good time are the best preventives; but a +second sowing may be necessary, and it should be made immediately the +loss is discovered. + +Nemesia.—For the earliest display of this beautiful annual the first +sowing should be made in pots under glass during this month. In the +open border seed may be sown in both May and June. Occasionally a +little difficulty is experienced in raising plants under artificial +conditions, but those who sow in beds or borders from the same packet +of seed during the months named, will find that the culture is quite +easy. + +Pentstemon.—The treatment recommended for the perennial section of +Lobelias will exactly suit this flower. + +Phlox Drummondii.—There is still time to sow. Established seedlings +should be gradually hardened by free access of air, until they are +ready for the open ground. + +Phlox, Perennial, may be raised from seed sown in shallow boxes in the +early part of this month, and placed in moderate heat. Transplant the +seedlings when ready, gradually harden, and plant out in rich soil one +foot apart, or put them into vacant places in the shrubbery. Aid with +water if necessary. + +Poppy.—The annual varieties do not well bear transplanting, especially +from light soils, and therefore, as a rule, it is advisable to sow +where the plants are intended to bloom. They make conspicuous lines and +clumps among shrubs; and this is especially the case with the huge +flowers of the double class. Sow in March and April, and commence +thinning the seedlings while they are small. They should ultimately be +left about one foot apart. The perennial Poppies may also be flowered +as annuals if sown in this month and transferred to open quarters when +large enough. + +Schizanthus.—Elegant half-hardy annuals, which can be grown as +specimens for the conservatory, or in quantity for open borders. Sow in +gentle heat, and pot on the seedlings. + +Solanum.—For a succession of the varieties which are grown for their +berries, sow again in heat, and make a sowing of the +ornamental-foliaged kinds for sub-tropical gardening. The latter are +rather more tender, and need a somewhat higher temperature than the +former. They must all have liberal culture to bring out their fine +qualities. + +Statice.—The hardy annual varieties of Sea Lavender may be sown during +March or April, and the best results are obtained by starting the seed +in pans and planting out when the seedlings are far enough advanced in +size. Seed of the hardy perennial kinds should be sown from April to +July on light soil, and transplanted later on to flowering quarters. + +Stock, Ten-week.—The increasing favour shown for Annual Stocks is in +part no doubt attributable to the growing appreciation manifested for +all kinds of flowers. But it is traceable in a still greater measure to +the augmented purity, brilliance, and variety in colour of modern +Ten-week Stocks, as well as to the enhanced reliability of seed in +producing double flowers. We need say nothing of its perfume, for this +is a quality which the most unobservant can scarcely fail to notice. + +Although the Ten-week Stock is half-hardy, it must not receive the +treatment of a tender annual; indeed, one of the most important points +in growing it is to avoid any excess of artificial heat. A little +assistance at the commencement it must have; but the aim should be to +impart a hardy constitution from the moment the seedlings appear. We +are not advocating reckless exposure to chill blasts, but the necessity +of giving air freely whenever there may be a fair opportunity. The best +of seed-beds can be made in pans or shallow boxes filled with sweet, +sandy soil. In these sow thinly, so that the young plants may have +abundant room. Even a little apparent wastefulness of space will be +repaid by stout and vigorous growth. From the middle to the end of the +month is a suitable time for sowing. + +Sweet Pea.—This flower is so much in demand for decorative purposes +that a prolonged display should be secured by successive sowings, +commencing in this month and continuing until May, or even to June, +where the soil and circumstances are specially favourable. The value of +groups of Sweet Peas in borders and for enlivening shrubberies is now +thoroughly appreciated, and it is not uncommon to see fine clumps among +dwarf fruit trees. + +Tigridia, or Ferraria.—Finer flowers are generally obtained from the +open border than from pots, and the bulbs should be planted out three +or four inches deep in March or April. Sandy loam and peat suit them +admirably. On a dry border these bulbs will pass the winter safely, but +in wet land it will be perilous to leave them out. + +Verbena.—It is possible to raise Verbenas in the open from seed sown in +drills on light soil, but the attempt is a little hazardous. There is, +however, no danger at all in sowing in pans placed in a cool frame. The +plants should be potted immediately they are large enough to handle. +The flowering from this sowing will be rather late, but not too late +for a good show of bloom. + +Zinnia.—The double varieties are now grown almost to the exclusion of +single flowers, and the former are so incomparably superior, that they +are judged by the severe rules of the florist. With this plant it is +useless to start too early. Towards the end of the month a commencement +will be made by experienced growers, but the comparative novice will be +wise to wait until the beginning of April. Sow in pots filled with a +compost of leaf-mould, loam, and sand, and be quite sure there is +effectual drainage. Plunge the pots in a temperature of about 60°. + +APRIL + +Many half-hardy flowers, such as Acroclinium, _Convolvulus major_, +_Linum rubrum_, Nemesia, Salpiglossis, Schizanthus, and others, which +at an earlier period can only be sown with safety under protection, may +now be consigned to the open ground without the least misgiving. A +knowledge of this fact is of immense value to owners of gardens that +are destitute of glass, for it enables them to grow a large number of +flowers which would otherwise be impracticable. Of course, the +flowering will be a little later than from plants raised earlier in +heat. + +Annuals, Hardy, which were not sown in March should be got in during +this month and in May. A large number of beautiful subjects are +available for the purpose, the most popular of which are named on page +373. + +Aster.—When the seedlings attain the third leaf, they should be pricked +off round the edges of 60-sized pots; later on put them singly into +small pots, from which the transfer to the open ground will not cause a +perceptible check. As the plants do not thrive in a close atmosphere, +it is important to give air freely on every suitable occasion, or they +cannot be maintained in a healthy growing condition. A second sowing +should be made about the middle of the month, following the routine +already advised. A sowing in drills on a carefully prepared bed in the +open ground is also desirable, and in some seasons it may produce the +most valuable plants of the year. Asters come so true from seed that +the bed may be arranged in any desired pattern. Thin the plants early, +and continue the process until they are far enough apart for flowering. +A distance of eight inches is sufficient for the miniatures, ten inches +for the dwarfs, and twelve or fifteen inches for the tall varieties. + +Balsam.—About the middle of this month will be the time for a second +sowing, and the seed may be raised in a frame without artificial heat. + +Canterbury Bell.—Sow in good soil from April to July and transplant +when ready. Under generous treatment these hardy biennials make a +beautiful display in borders and the pure colours show with striking +effect against the dark foliage of shrubs. + +Carnation.—Any time from now until August will be suitable for sowing, +and if the seed has been saved from a first-class strain, a good +proportion of very fine flowers will be produced in the following year. +For these plants florists have always considered it important that the +potting soil should be prepared months before use, and there are good +reasons for the practice. If this is impossible, see that the compost +is sweet, friable, and, above all, free from that terrible scourge of +Carnations, the wireworm. Even sifting will not rid the soil of its +presence with certainty, but by spreading thin layers of the mould +evenly upon a hard, level floor, and passing a heavy roller over it +east and west, then north and south, the wireworm will be disposed of. +Or dressing the soil with Vaporite two or three weeks in advance of +potting will often prove effectual. Turfy loam three parts, leaf-mould +one part, decayed cow-manure one part, with an addition of sharp sand, +make a first-class compost. Sow in well-drained 48-sized pots, cover +the seed very lightly, and place in a frame. Transplant the seedlings +immediately they can be handled, when a cool, shaded pit will keep them +in hard condition. After six or eight leaves are formed it will be time +to plant them out. In the following spring the usual routine of staking +and tying must be followed. + +Chrysanthemum leucanthemum (Marguerite, or Ox-eye Daisy).—Seed of these +well-known perennial varieties may be sown any time from April to July. +There are several greatly improved forms of this popular flower which +may now be had in bloom from May until early autumn. Start the +seedlings on a bed of light soil, and when large enough transplant them +to positions for flowering in the following year. + +Cyclamen.—The bulbs which have been flowering in pots through the +winter are now approaching their period of rest, and they must not be +neglected if they are to make a satisfactory display next season. Water +should be gradually diminished until the foliage dies off, and then the +corms will require shade, or they will crack. Dry treatment generally +results in an attack of thrips, and each root must be painted with some +good insecticide to destroy the pest. Cyclamen should never be allowed +to become actually dust-dry; but if the pots can be plunged in a shaded +moist pit, watering will rarely be necessary. In June the pots may be +buried to the rim in a shady spot until August, when it will be time to +re-pot and start the bulbs into growth. The chief enemies of Cyclamen +are aphis and thrips. Fumigation will settle the former; for the +latter, dip the plants in a solution of tobacco-water and soft soap. + +Dahlia, seedlings must have plenty of water, and be kept free from +aphis while in pots. Instead of taking out the leading shoot, as is +often done, give it the support of a neat stick. The plants should also +be potted on as growth demands, the important point being to maintain +steady progress without a check until they can be planted out. At the +same time they must be hardened in readiness for removal to the open +ground; and if the work is carried on with judgment, the plants will be +dwarf, and possess a robust constitution capable of producing a +brilliant display of flowers until frost appears. + +Gladiolus.—Assuming that the beds have been properly prepared, we have +now only to consider the question of planting, and no better time can +be chosen than the beginning of April. Some eminent growers are at the +trouble of taking out the soil with a trowel for each bulb. In the +opening, a bed of sand and wood-ashes or powdered charcoal is made, on +which the root is placed. Others lay them in deep drills, partly filled +with a similar light mixture. Whichever method is adopted, the crown of +the corm should be left about four inches beneath the surface. The +distance between them may vary from twelve to eighteen inches, and the +greater space is a distinct advantage when attending to the plants +subsequently. The same rules apply to the planting of clumps. + +Kochia trichophylla.—Sow seed where the plants are to stand, or in a +prepared bed from which they can be transferred to make clumps, lines, +or single specimens where the attractive foliage will be most +effective. + +Lobelia.—Early in the month transfer the seedlings to pans or boxes, +but the latter are preferable. Not a single flower should be allowed to +show until the plants are established in the open ground. Although +Lobelias are very attractive in pots, they cannot be satisfactorily +grown in them, with the exception of the _ramosa_ varieties. But the +object is easily attained by potting plants from a reserve bed after +they have developed into good tufts. From a stiff soil they can be +lifted and potted with facility; and a light soil will cause no +difficulty if the bed be soaked a short time in advance. After potting, +the plants will give no trouble, except to supply them with water. + +Marigolds can be raised in a cold frame, and towards the end of the +month there will be no risk in sowing in the open ground. The plants +thrive in a sunny position, even in scorching seasons. + +Marvel of Peru.—If not sown last month, there is no time to lose; and +with a little care seed can now be germinated without artificial heat. +When the plants come to be transferred to the open, put them, if +possible, in sandy loam, exposed to full sunshine. + +Mignonette.—Successional sowings may be made up to the end of June. +Give each plant plenty of room. By removing the seed-pods as fast as +they are formed flowering is greatly prolonged. + +Nasturtium.—Both dwarf and tall varieties are usually treated as hardy +annuals, with the exception of the date of sowing. None of the +Nasturtiums are quite hardy, and if sown in March the plants are liable +to destruction by late frosts. It is therefore usual to sow in April or +May, according to the district, and the growth is so rapid that the +plants are full of bloom before the summer has far advanced. Sow on +poor soil always. + +The _Tropæolum canariense_ (Canary Creeper) may be raised in pans from +a March sowing for planting out in May, or seed can be sown in the open +during April. + +Petunia.—- Plants from the first sowing will be ready for small pots, +and they must be kept going until the 48-or 32-size is reached. All +Petunias rebel if root-bound, and the double varieties are especially +impatient in this respect. After each transfer give them a sheltered, +shady position and attention with water until they start again. Good +drainage and careful ventilation are essential, or the foliage will +lose colour. Seedlings intended for beds may be transferred direct from +the seed-pans into 60-sized pots. + +Picotee and Pink.—See the culture prescribed for Carnation. + +Ricinus.—At quite the end of the month or the beginning of May, seed +put into the open ground will produce splendid specimens if treated +with a lavish hand. Take out the soil for a depth of eighteen inches or +two feet, and fill the space to within three inches of the surface with +a mixture of rich soil and well-decayed manure. Upon each bed thus made +place three Ricinus beans in a triangle, and when they are up, thin to +one plant at each station, and this, of course, the strongest. This +mode of growing Ricinus will astonish those who have been accustomed to +allow the plant to struggle through existence in the ordinary soil of a +garden border. Plentiful supplies of water must be given in dry +weather, and stakes will be necessary to save the specimens from injury +by wind. It is too early for putting out those raised in heat. + +Stock, Ten-week.—Where the requisite quantity of seed has not been +sown, it must be done promptly. If there happens to be a cold frame on +a spent hot-bed to spare, it will exactly suit the seedlings when they +are ready for transferring. Make the surface fresh by adding a little +rich soil, and put the plants in rows three or four inches apart, +allowing three inches between them in the rows. In seed-pans, however, +space cannot be afforded in this liberal fashion, but they will make a +full return for rather more than the usual spacing. To maintain a dwarf +habit, it is imperative that the plants should be kept near the glass. + +Where there are no facilities for growing Stocks in the manner +described seed may be sown at the end of the month in the open ground, +and with a little care there will be a handsome show of bloom. The +seedlings are subject to the attacks of turnip fly, which is a terrible +foe to them in the seed-leaf stage; in fact, the plants are sometimes +up and gone before danger is suspected. A light sprinkling of water, +followed immediately by a dusting of wood-ashes, just as they are +coming through, will save them, but it may be necessary to repeat the +operation two or three times until they are out of peril. A rich and +friable seed-bed is one remedy for the fly, for it promotes rapid +growth, which speedily places the plant beyond the power of its insect +adversary. But if open-ground culture exposes Stocks to one hazard, it +saves them from another, as mildew does not attack them unless they +have been transplanted. Stocks come so true from seed that it is easy +to arrange a design in any desired colours. Sow in drills from nine to +fifteen inches apart, according to the height of the variety, and cover +the seed very lightly with fine soil. The bed must be protected from +birds, and a dressing of soot will keep off slugs. Begin to thin the +plants early, but do not forget that some single specimens will have to +be taken out when the flowers show, and that is the time for the final +thinning. + +Sunflowers do not well bear transplanting, hence the seed should be +sown where the plants are intended to flower. During its brief season +of growth, the Sunflower taxes the soil very severely, and to develop +its full proportions decayed manure must be freely employed to a good +depth, and unstinted supplies of water will be necessary in dry +weather. + +Zinnia.—- The first week of this month is as good a time as any to sow +seed, and the conditions named under March should be followed. When the +seedlings are an inch high, pot them separately, and place in a close, +shaded frame until they are established. Then give air more and more +freely while the plants are being trained to bear full exposure. + +MAY + +This is the chief month for bedding, and the crowded state of pits and +houses creates a natural anxiety to push forward the work; yet the +exercise of a little patience may save many a valuable lot of plants +from being injured past recovery. Although the days are long, and +perhaps sunny, the nights are often treacherous, especially in the +early part of the month. The first business is to prepare the plants +gradually for transfer to the open ground by free exposure whenever +there is a favourable opportunity. Take off the lights on genial days, +and by degrees open them at night, until they can be dispensed with +altogether. About the second week of the month it will generally be +safe to put the most hardy subjects on a bed of ashes, under the +shelter of a hedge or wall, before planting them. Begin with +Antirrhinum, Dianthus, Phlox Drummondii, Stock, and Verbena. A little +later on, others which are rather more delicate, as, for instance, +Balsam, Begonia, Dahlia, Petunia, Zinnia, &c., can be treated in the +same way, until the great bulk of them are in final quarters. +Sub-tropical plants, such as Nicotiana, Ricinus, Solanum, and Wigandia, +had better be kept under control till the first or second week of June. + +Annuals.—There is still an opportunity of sowing many varieties, and +also to make further sowings of others that are already showing signs +of promise. The practice of insuring a succession of all flowers much +in demand for vases, of which Sweet Peas are an example, is on the +increase, and deserves to be further extended. Another point is that +many annuals which require heat in earlier months may with confidence +be sown during May in the open ground. + +Hardy Biennials and Perennials.—Seed of many favourite biennials and +perennials may be safely sown in the open ground during May, June, and +July, and as a general rule the finest plants for flowering in the +following season are obtained from the earliest sowings. The bed for +the seed should be prepared with care and a friable loam is the best +for the purpose. Immediately the seedlings are large enough to handle, +transplant to small rich nursery beds and shift to flowering positions +in the autumn. A number of these subjects are dealt with individually +in the calendars for the months named, and others which are suitable +for the purpose are: + +Anchusa italica +Aster sub-cæruleus +Aubrietia +Candytuft (Iberis) +Cheiranthus Allionii +Chrysanthemum leucanthemum +Coreopsis grandiflora +Cynoglossum +Digitalis +Gaillardia +Galega officinalis +Gaura Lindheimeri +Geum +Gypsophila paniculata +Heuchera +Lupinus +Cenothera +Poppy, perennial +Pyrethrum +Saxifrage +Thalictrum +Verbascum +Viola + +Antirrhinum is admirably adapted for a dry and sunny position, in which +it will thrive and flower freely. + +Balsam.—Towards the middle of the month a final sowing may be made with +safety in the open ground. Former seedlings will need potting on until +they reach the eight-inch size, and at each transfer put the plants in +rather deeper than before; this encourages the growth of roots from the +stems. While increasing the pot-room not a bud will show; but +immediately the roots are checked by the pots, flowering will commence. +The old method of stopping and disbudding not only spoiled the plants, +but robbed them of the finest flowers, which are invariably produced on +the main stem. Since the natural method of growing Balsams has been in +favour it is usual to see grand specimens covered with immense flowers. + +Campanula.—The hardy perennial varieties may be sown in the open during +the present month to provide seedlings for transplanting to flowering +positions in autumn. Should there be any good reason for delay it will +not be too late to sow in June or July, but the finest specimens are +generally produced from May sowings. The best results can always be +obtained by raising the required number annually and discarding the +plants after they have flowered in the following season. + +Cineraria.—Those who care to have Cinerarias in bloom during November +and December may do so from a sowing made at the beginning of April, +but it is not usual to start so early. Our own practice is to sow +twice, during the present month and again in June, to insure a +succession. From this month’s sowings we look for our finest plants. +The Cineraria is easy to raise and to grow, but it will by no means +take care of itself. It has so many enemies that unusual vigilance is +necessary to flower it to perfection. It thrives in a compost of turfy +loam, with a little leaf-mould added; but the soil should not be +over-rich, or there will be much foliage and few flowers. Still, as the +plant is a rapid grower, it must not be starved, neither must it suffer +for lack of water. Pots or pans may be employed for the seed; and as +the young plants grow freely, they may go straight to thumb pots +without the usual intermediate stage of pricking off. + +Coleus should be finally shifted into 48-sized pots. If signs of +decline become manifest, weak liquid manure water given occasionally +will revive the plants and intensify their colours. During the summer +any ordinary greenhouse or conservatory will suit them, provided they +are shaded from fierce sunshine. + +Cyclamen.—The strongest seedlings should now be ready for 60-sized +pots. Abundant but judicious ventilation, plenty of water, and freedom +from aphis, are the conditions to be secured. + +Dahlia.—Make the ground on which this flower is to be planted +thoroughly rich. It is a rapid grower, and cannot attain to fine +proportions on a poor soil. If the plants are carefully prepared for +the change by free exposure on genial days, and also during warm +nights, they will scarcely feel the removal. When first put out, dress +the surrounding soil with soot to prevent injury by slugs, which show a +decided partiality for newly planted Dahlias. Give water freely when +requisite, and in staking the plants take care that the ties do not cut +the branches. These ties will require attention occasionally during the +summer and autumn. + +Delphinium.—Sow the perennial varieties on a prepared bed. Thin early, +without removing all the weaker seedlings, and when sufficiently +advanced to bear removal, transfer to borders where the plants are to +flower. + +Hollyhocks may be put into the borders when the weather is quite warm. +Wait until the end of the month, or even the beginning of June, rather +than have them nipped by an untimely frost. Like the Dahlia this plant +must have unstinted supplies of water and abundance of manure. A tall +stake, firmly fixed, will also be necessary for each plant. + +Nicotiana.—Seed may be sown on an open, sunny border, but it is a waste +of seed and labour to put it into poor soil. Prepare the ground +beforehand by deep digging, and by incorporating plenty of manure. If +the near presence of other plants renders this impossible, drive a bar +into the soil and work a good-sized hole. Fill it with rich stuff to +within a few inches of the surface, and finish with fine soil, on which +sow the seed. This method can only be adopted for light land. In the +event of a cutting east wind after the seedlings are up, improvise some +kind of shelter until the danger is past. + +Petunias are very sensitive under a frost or cold wind. Therefore be in +no hurry to bed the plants until quite the end of the month or +beginning of June, especially if the weather appears to be at all +threatening. A good mellow soil, free of recent manure, suits them. If +unduly rich, it will strengthen the foliage at the expense of the +flowers, and will also postpone the blooming until late in the season. + +Portulaca.—It is useless to sow until the temperature is summerlike. If +necessary, wait until the close of the month, or longer, before putting +in the seed. This flower will endure neither a moist atmosphere nor a +retentive soil. Sow on raised beds of light soil, the more sandy the +better; and in seasons which speedily burn the life out of other +plants, Portulacas will display their beauty, no matter how fiercely +the sun may beat upon them. Water will occasionally be necessary, but +it should never be given until there is obvious need for it. Portulacas +are easily grown in pots or window-boxes, and they will bloom profusely +where many other flowers only wither and die. + +Primula.—Almost every season witnesses the advent of some novelty in +this flower, either in colour or in form. And the plant is now worth +growing for the beauty and diversity of its foliage alone. The flowers +range from pure white through all shades of tender rose up to a deep, +rich crimson. After years of earnest effort, two beautiful blue flowers +have been obtained. There are also several elegant double strains, and +these possess a special value for bouquets, because of their enduring +quality. All the varieties, including the popular Star Primulas, can be +grown with ease in any soil which is fairly rich and friable. Equal +parts of leaf-mould and loam, with a little sand, will suit them to +perfection. Fill the pots firmly, taking precautions to insure +effective drainage. A thin layer of silver sand sifted over the soil +will aid an even sowing by showing up the seed. As a finish, shake over +just enough fine soil to hide the sand. Thin sowing is important, +because the most reliable new seed is almost certain to germinate at +intervals, and the plants which come first can then be lifted without +imperilling the remainder. Prick off as fast as ready round the edges +of small pots, and shade until established. Then give air more and more +freely. + +Stock, Ten-week.—The preparation of the soil is the first business, and +whether the Stocks are intended to be grown in small groups or alone in +beds, the treatment should be the same in either case. With light land +there is no difficulty; it is only needful to dig it well, and to +incorporate a sufficient quantity of decayed manure. If disposed to +incur a little extra trouble to give the plants a start, take out some +soil with a trowel, and fill the hole with compost from the potting +shed. This course is indispensable on heavy land; and assuming it to be +rich enough, the quickest and most effectual way is to make drills six +inches deep at the proper distances, and nearly fill them with prepared +soil, in which the Stocks can be planted. For a short time afterwards +provide shelter from the midday sun, but do not keep them covered a +moment longer than is necessary. In planting it must not be forgotten +that an uncertain proportion of single specimens will have to come out. +On this account it is advisable to put them in small groups, and remove +the surplus even if they are double, + +Sweet William.—The introduction of several new varieties has created a +fresh interest in this fine old garden favourite. This is one of the +hardy biennials that will not be hustled. On a nicely prepared bed in +the open sow thinly in drills either during this month or up to July. +In due time transplant in rows, affording sufficient space for each +specimen to become stocky, and in autumn transfer to flowering +quarters. + +Verbena.—Beds for Verbenas should be rich, mellow, and very sweet. A +poor soil not only produces poor flowers, but it materially shortens +the blooming period. Peg the plants down from the outset, and allow +them to cross and recross each other until there is a sheet of glowing +colour. + +Wallflower.—This fragrant spring flower is not always grown as well as +it might be. It is often sown too late to become established before +winter sets in. Sow now in drills nine inches apart on friable loam. +Thin to three inches apart, and transplant the thinnings. A little +later repeat the operation, so as to leave the plants at a distance of +six inches in the rows. Assist them with water if necessary. + +Zinnia.—A sowing in the open ground about the middle of the month will +provide plants in gardens where there are no means of raising them +artificially at an earlier date. Even those who possess a stock will be +wise to put a final sowing in the open. If possible, choose a sunny +border sloping to the south, and make the soil rich, fine, and rather +firm. Drop seeds in little groups of three or four at each spot, +allowing fifteen or eighteen inches between the groups. Cover lightly, +and eventually thin the plants to one at each station. + +JUNE + +The days are now at their longest, and plants in pits and houses should +have the full benefit of it. By opening the lights early, and shading +in good time, the flowering period will be greatly prolonged. Ply the +syringe over plants infested with aphis until they are quite clean. In +some instances, it may even be wise to pinch off young shoots which are +covered with the fly. + +Keep Verbenas, Petunias, and the taller varieties of Phlox Drummondii +pegged down; this furnishes the beds and helps to check evaporation. + +Rain and watering alike tend to harden the ground; and as this +condition does not favour growth, the surface should be frequently +broken with the hoe. + +Anemone.—Those who grow this flower from seed should make another +sowing now or in July, even if they have thrifty plants from the +February sowing. By this arrangement the flowering period is prolonged, +and the finer blossoms will probably come from this month’s sowing. + +Aquilegia seed will germinate now in the open ground, and the plants +need no protection during winter. + +Balsam.—As a rule, it is unwise to put Balsams into beds or borders +before the first week of this month. The plant revels in warmth and +light, and should have an open, sunny position. Its succulent nature +will indicate the necessity of giving abundant supplies of water. For +so fleshy and apparently fragile a plant, it is astonishing how well it +stands in a strong wind. From good strains the separate colours come so +true that the design of a bed can be accurately arranged. As pot plants +Balsams need no support, provided they are kept dwarf and stout, and +they make admirable decorative subjects. But for indoor use it is easy +to grow them in the open ground, and when well advanced they can be +lifted with care and potted. This procedure offers the advantages of a +choice of colours even from mixed seed and a selection of the most +robust plants. + +Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.—This has proved to be one of the most elegant +and refined bedding subjects we possess, and it appears to become more +popular every year. The plant is also freely grown in the reserve +border to produce flowers for cutting. Employ specimens that are large +enough to make a show at once, and select plants of the short-jointed +class for outdoor work. They must have unusually rich soil. + +Calceolaria.—For wealth of bloom, combined with richness and intensity +of colouring, the Herbaceous Calceolaria has no rival among biennials. +A large greenhouse filled with fine specimens in their full splendour +is a sight which will not soon be forgotten. One great source of +interest lies in the annual changes in shades of colour, and the +variations in the markings of individual flowers. From a first-class +strain of seed, high expectation will not be disappointed. Indeed, the +excellence of seedlings is so fully recognised, that there is not the +smallest advantage in propagating the plant by the tedious method of +cuttings. But Calceolarias will not be trifled with. They must have an +even temperature and unremitting attention to maintain a thriving +condition. Fill the seed-pans or pots firmly with a compost which is +both rich and porous; the last point is of great consequence in helping +to secure free drainage. Make the surface perfectly even, and whiten it +with silver sand; this answers the double purpose of revealing the seed +and afterwards of showing when it is sufficiently dusted over with fine +soil. Whether or not this method be adopted, the sowing must be thin +and even, and as the seed is exceedingly fine, the task is rather a +delicate one. Sheets of glass placed over the pans and turned daily +will check rapid evaporation. Place the pans in a moist, shady spot, +where the temperature is constant, and germination will take place in +from seven to nine days, when the glass must be promptly removed. Then +comes a critical stage, and a little neglect may result in the loss of +past labour, and necessitate a fresh start. Still keep the pans in some +sheltered corner which can be thoroughly shaded from the sun. This +question of shade needs much vigilance. So also does the supply of +water, which must not be administered wholesale, but rather by frequent +gentle sprinklings. On the appearance of the second leaf, promptly +prick off the seedlings in carefully prepared pots, allowing about two +inches between them. They will need dexterous manipulation because of +their small size, but a skilful hand will transfer them without injury, +and perhaps with a little soil adhering to the roots. As all the +seedlings will not be ready at one time, it will probably require about +three operations to clear the seed-pans, and the early removals should +be so made as to avoid injuring the remainder. A pen, with the point +firmly pressed into the holder, makes a small handy implement for the +task. Retain the seedlings in a sheltered position, and continue the +attention as to shade and watering. In about a month the plants will be +ready for thumb pots. + +Canna.—In the mixed border, and also in the sub-tropical garden, Cannas +are much valued for the exceeding grace and beauty of their foliage. +They should be put into very rich soil; and, like all other plants of +rapid growth, they will need copious supplies of water in dry weather. +In mild districts and on dry soils the plants may remain out all the +winter, under the protection of a heap of ashes. But, as a rule, it +will be necessary to store them in frames until spring; and they may be +finer in the second than in the first season. + +Cineraria.—To insure a succession, and where a sufficient stock is not +already provided, another sowing should be made, following the method +advised last month. The seedlings, when transferred to small pots, +should be put into a close frame, and be sprinkled with water morning +and evening until the roots take hold. At first it is desirable to keep +them fairly warm, but in a fortnight the heat may be gradually reduced +and more air be given until cool treatment is reached. The plants will +need potting on up to November, when they should go into the final +size; and, except for special purposes, 6-1/4- or 7-1/2-inch pots are +large enough. Cinerarias are sought after by every pest which infests +the greenhouse. We need only say that by fumigation, sulphur, or by +syringing with a suitable insecticide, the plants must be kept clean, +or they cannot be healthy. + +Daisy, Double.—The finest blooms are obtained from seedlings raised +annually, and the general practice is to sow in the open ground during +this month or July. When large enough transplant to good ground for +blooming in the following season. The new Giant forms of the Double +Daisy are of superb size, closely resembling finely shaped Asters in +form. + +Dianthus.—For a display next summer, sow in drills drawn six inches +apart in an open situation, and cover the seed lightly with fine soil. +Shade the spot until the plants show. + +Geranium.—Sometimes a difficulty is experienced in bringing Geranium +seedlings into flower. They possess so much initial vigour that the +production of wood continues to the very end of the season. Plants +which show signs of excessive growth should be put into the border +without removing the pots. This check to the roots will throw the +plants into luxuriant bloom. + +Gladioli are very liable to injury by high wind, and stakes should be +put to them in good time. Each plant may have a separate support, and +this is the most perfect treatment; or the stakes may be at intervals, +or at the ends of rows, connected by lengths of strong, soft material, +to which intervening stems can be secured. The work should be done +carefully, and if the flowers are intended for exhibition they must +also be shaded by some means. This may be a cheap or a costly +proceeding; but in whatever manner it is carried out, security is +essential, or the whole bed may be ruined. + +Hollyhock.—A sowing in the open ground will produce plants for +wintering in the cold frame; and if generously treated, they will make +a fine show in the following year. + +Myosotis.—During this month sow Sutton’s Pot Myosotis and bring forward +in a cold frame for winter decoration, for which purpose this plant is +rapidly increasing in favour. Seed of the hardy varieties may also be +sown now or in July, choosing a shady spot in the open ground. +Transplant when large enough. + +Nicotiana.—To expose Tobacco plants before warm weather is established +will give them a check from which they may not recover until the summer +is half over, if they recover at all. Spare frames with movable lights +will prepare them admirably and save labour. The second week of this +month is generally warm enough for the planting. The seedlings must +have a very rich soil, and abundance of water in dry weather. A heavy +mulch of decayed manure will supply them with food and check +evaporation. + +Pansy.—From the end of May to the end of July seedlings may be raised +in the open ground. Thin and transplant when ready. + +Polyanthus to be sown from May to July on a shaded border. Thin the +seedlings boldly, and bed the thinnings. Those raised early will flower +next spring, but the later seedlings cannot be depended on for blooming +in the first year. + +Portulaca.—The weather may have been too cold and wet for sowing in +May, or seed then sown may have failed; happily, there is yet ample +time for raising this flower, in either beds or pots. + +Primrose.—This fine old favourite may be grown from seed in various +tints of yellow and almost any shade of colour from white to deep +crimson; an effective blue has also been achieved. Primroses make +beautiful pot and border flowers. Seed may be sown from May to July. +Seed-pans can be used, or the sowing may be made in drills in the open. +In the latter case, a free dressing of soot must be employed to render +the spot distasteful to slugs. When transplanting, give the plants a +deep retentive loam if possible, and a shady position. + +Primula.—To insure a succession of flowers next spring, make another +sowing as advised under May. Seedlings which are ready should be got +into small pots, and afterwards they must be re-potted when necessary; +but never shift them until the pots are full of roots, and always put +them in firmly up to the collar. + +Solanum.—The berried varieties may be grown entirely in pots, or they +can be put into beds for the summer, from which they will lift for +potting again just as the handsome berries are turning colour. The +spiny-leaved varieties are valuable for sub-tropical gardening. Small +plants are of little worth, hence they should be put into very rich +soil, with a thick layer of manure on the surface, and have copious +supplies of water to induce free growth. + +Stock, Spring-flowering.—This valuable section, which includes the +popular Brompton strain, usually comes into bloom in May and June. Seed +is sometimes sown where the plants are to flower, but a certain degree +of risk attends this mode of procedure, and Spring-flowering Stocks are +so valuable that they are worth more careful treatment. Either now or +in July sow in pans, and place them under shelter until the plants are +an inch high; then stand them in the open for a week before planting +out. + +Stock, Winter-flowering.—For their refreshing colours and delightful +perfume Stocks are highly prized during the winter months. To have them +in flower at Christmas, seed of Christmas Pink or Beauty of Nice should +be sown in June. It is usual to grow three or more plants in a pot, +according to size. At the fall of the year place them in the +conservatory or a cool greenhouse, and give assistance in the form of +weak liquid manure as soon as the buds appear. Other suitable +varieties, of which there are a number, may be sown in July or August +for flowering indoors through the winter and spring months. + +Wallflower.—If no seed was sown in May the task ought not to be +neglected this month. + +Zinnia.—The first week of June is about the right time to bed Zinnias, +and there are three facts to be borne in mind concerning them. They do +not transplant well, and therefore a showery day should, if possible, +be selected for moving them. In the absence of rain, be liberal with +water. They are very brittle, and should have a position somewhat +sheltered from the full force of the wind; and as they revel in +sunshine, the more roasting the season the finer will be the flowers. + +JULY + +Antirrhinum.—A sowing in drills during the present month or August will +supply plants for flowering next year. Transfer direct from the +seed-bed to the positions where they are intended to bloom. + +Calceolaria.—If more plants are wanted, sow again. Among the seedlings +which we left last month just as they had been pricked off, it will +soon be evident that there is a wide difference between the strength of +the plants. As a rule, the most robust are those in which yellow +largely predominates. These make bright and showy decorative plants, +but the colours that are especially valued by florists will probably +come from the seedlings which are weakly in the early stage. Hence +these should be specially prized, and under skilful management they may +be grown into grand specimens. The thumb pots for Calceolarias need +careful preparation with crocks covered with clean moss or vegetable +fibre, and they must be filled with rich porous compost. Transfer the +plants with extreme care, and place them in a sheltered part of the +greenhouse or in a shaded frame, allowing free access of air on the +leeward side. If aphis has to be dealt with—and it is very partial to +Calceolarias—fumigation is the best remedy. Choose a quiet evening for +the operation; on the following day carefully water the plants and +shade them from the sun. + +Campanula.—The perennial varieties may still be sown, either in pans or +in the open. Give them a good light soil, and do not stint the supply +of water. + +Cyclamens which are forward enough should be shifted into 48-sized +pots. Follow up the process until all are re-potted. + +Lobelia.—In pots or pans sow seed of the perennial varieties to provide +plants for the borders next year. Pot off singly when ready, and +protect in a cold frame through the winter. + +Mimulus sown in the open ground will flower in the following spring. If +possible, make the seed-bed in a moist retentive soil and in a shaded +situation. + +Primula.—To force the growth of this plant is to ruin it. The most +satisfactory results are invariably obtained from specimens which have +matured slowly, and have been treated as nearly hardy after the +seedling stage. From this month up to the middle of September it will +be quite safe to expose them freely, day and night, except in inclement +weather. Even in the winter protection is only needed from frost, damp, +and keen winds. + +AUGUST + +Annuals and Biennials, Hardy.—In the majority of English gardens the +spring display of bulbous flowers is too often followed by a dreary +blank, which is almost unredeemed by a touch of colour, except that +afforded by the late Tulips and a few other flowers which are +relatively unimportant. The brilliance of the Crocuses, Hyacinths, and +early Tulips serves to throw into relief the comparative barrenness +which follows. And the contrast is rendered all the more striking by +the cheerful spring days. It is at this juncture that annuals and +biennials from summer or early autumn sowings light up the garden with +welcome masses and bands of fresh and vivid colouring. They are then so +valuable that it is surprising they are not more commonly grown, +especially as the cost of seed is very trifling. Even the transitory +character of some of them is an element in their favour, for they do +not interfere with the summer bedding arrangements. Such flowers as +Pansy and Viola, however, produce a long-continued show of bloom. + +The following list contains the varieties which are best adapted for +the purpose:— + +Alyssum, Sweet +Antirrhinum +Asperula azurea setosa +Calandrinia umbellata +Calendula officinalis fl. pl. +Candytuft +Cheiranthus Allionii +Chrysanthemum, Morning Star +Chrysanthemum, Evening Star +Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum +Chrysanthemum segetum gr. +Clarkia +Collinsia +Coreopsis +Cornflower +Erysimum +Eschscholtzia +Gilia tricolor +Godetia +Iceland Poppy +Larkspur, dwarf rocket +Leptosiphon +Limnanthes Douglasii +Linaria, pink +Nemophila +Nigella, Miss Jekyll +Papaver glaucum +Phacelia tanacetifolia +Poppy, Shirley +Saponaria calabrica +Scabious +Silene +Sweet Sultan +Venus’ Looking-glass, purple +Virginian Stock +Viscaria +Whitlavia + +Sow thinly, not later than the middle of the month in cold districts, +but September will be early enough in the Southern counties. Drills are +preferable to broadcasting, because the beds are more easily weeded and +kept in order. Thin the rows early, so that the plants may become stout +and hard before winter overtakes them. Early in the new year +transplanting must be resorted to during open weather if the plants are +to be flowered in heavy soil; but on light, rich land, sow where they +are intended to bloom. + +Annuals under Glass.—The flowers available for winter and spring +blooming are naturally few in number compared with those which fill +gardens and conservatories during the summer months. But it is not +generally realised that several favourite outdoor annuals are as +serviceable for flowering under glass in the short days of the year as +they are for growing in the open ground in summer, and they are the +more valuable for winter and spring use as no elaborate system of +cultivation is needed. Any greenhouse or conservatory from which frost +can be excluded will grow these annuals well. Seed should be sown in +August or September, in pots or pans placed in a cool house or frame. +When the seedlings have made some progress, prick them off into the +pots in which they are wanted to flower, and grow steadily on, bearing +in mind always that the most important point is to keep the plants as +hardy as possible by giving air at every favourable opportunity. The +following varieties are especially suitable for winter and spring +flowering under glass:—Alonsoa; The Star and Dunnettii varieties of +Annual Chrysanthemum; Clarkia elegans; Dimorphotheca; Gypsophila +elegans; Linaria; Nemesia Suttoni; Nicotiana, Miniature White and N. +affinis; Phlox, Purity; Salpiglossis; and Swan River Daisy. + +Asters for indoor decoration should now be lifted from beds or borders +and potted. It is worth a little trouble to accomplish the task with +the least possible injury or disturbance to the roots. Light soils +should have a good soaking of water on the previous evening, to prevent +the mould from crumbling away. + +Carnation.—Seed may still be sown as advised in April; but to carry the +plants safely through the winter it is necessary to have them strong +before cold weather sets in. + +Chionodoxa can be forced with the same ease as Roman Hyacinths. A +48-sized pot will accommodate several bulbs. + +Cinerarias are frequently placed in the open during this month and +September, and as it tends to impart a hardy constitution, the practice +is to be commended. A north border under a wall will suit them, but the +proximity of a hedge should be avoided. Before the plants are put out +see that they are quite clean, or it may be necessary to restore them +to the house in order to rid them of some troublesome pest. + +Clarkia.—The varieties of the Elegans class make very handsome pot +plants, and to insure the requisite number seed must be sown in +well-drained pots during this month or early in September. + +Cyclamen.—Where Cyclamens are extensively grown it is usual to make the +first sowing in August, and many gardeners regard this as the most +important period for securing healthy young seedlings. A common mistake +with beginners is to raise them in too high a temperature. On this and +other points useful suggestions will be found in the article commencing +on page 256. + +Dianthus.—Either now or a little later transfer seedlings to flowering +quarters, and if possible put them into sandy loam in a sunny spot. + +Freesia.—Few and simple are the conditions necessary to the well-being +of this beautiful and delicately scented flower. The fine specimens to +be seen occasionally in cottagers’ windows in the Isle of Wight attest +the ease with which it can be grown in a congenial atmosphere. The +bulbs are exceedingly small in proportion to the flowers, and the +rootlets are so fragile that potting on is to be avoided. A 48-sized +pot will hold five or six bulbs, and the soil should consist largely of +decaying vegetable fibre, such as peat, leaf-mould, and turfy loam. The +pots can be stood in any sheltered position out of doors, under a +covering of cocoa-nut fibre or other light material, until the foliage +begins to grow. + +Geranium.—A sowing in August will supply plants for flowering next +summer, and the directions given in February are suitable, save that +heat can now be dispensed with. These late seedlings will need more +care to carry them through the winter than plants raised earlier in the +year. + +Gerbera.—These charming flowers make admirable subjects for the +greenhouse and conservatory, and an excellent display may also be +obtained outdoors if a sunny well-drained part of the garden be +selected for the plants. August is the best month for sowing seed. +Plants required for indoor blooming should be potted on as may become +necessary. Those for the open ground must be thoroughly hardened off +for planting out in the early summer of the succeeding year. + +Hyacinths, Italian and Roman.—Obtain the bulbs as early as possible, +and pot them promptly. Place them in any spare corner of the open +ground, where they can be covered with cocoa-nut fibre or leaf-mould +until the roots are formed. A child can grow these flowers; and they +should be largely employed for bouquets and for indoor decoration +during the dark winter days. + +Mignonette.—For winter flowering sow in 48-or 32-sized pots, filled +with light rich soil. Put the seed in little groups, thin to three or +five plants in each pot, and give them the benefit of full daylight +close to the glass. When flowering commences do not allow seed to form. +If the spikes which have passed the heyday of perfection are cut off, +the plants will break again and flower a second time. + +Narcissi.—The first potting of early varieties is made this month as +soon as the bulbs can be obtained. + +Pelargonium.—The remarks under Geranium apply to this flower also. + +Picotee.—Follow the instructions given for Carnation. + +Schizanthus.—To do full justice to this flower seed should be sown now +for plants to be kept through the winter in any house which is +sufficiently warm to exclude frost. + +Scilla præcox, or sibirica.—The treatment which suits Roman Hyacinths +will answer for this bulb also, when required for flowering indoors. +The two form an admirable harmony in blue and white. + +Silene.—All the most useful varieties of Catchfly are hardy against +cold, but not entirely so against damp. They possess a special value +for their sparkling appearance in spring. Sow in light sandy soil, in +which they will pass the winter safely. On a heavy loam the +transplanting system must be resorted to in February or March. + +Stock, Intermediate.—This section is valuable for indoor decoration in +spring. No artificial heat is necessary to raise the seed; in fact, it +is not wise to employ it. Either in this month or early in September +sow the required number of pots and plunge them in ashes in a frame +until March. Thin the seedlings to three in each pot. Before flowering, +a rich top-dressing will be beneficial; and manure water—weak at first, +but stronger by degrees—will intensify the colours. + +Stock, Spring-flowering.—A bed prepared under trees or shrubs will +afford some shelter from winter frost. Make it thoroughly rich, and in +it plant the seedlings. Should the growth be very rapid in September, +the plants will probably become too succulent to endure the stress of +winter. If so, lift them and plant again on the same spot. + +Sweet Pea.—The modern culture of this delightful flower includes deep +trenching and the liberal use of manure. Those who intend to sow during +September in the open must get the trenched ground into perfect order +early in the present month. The details are important and are fully +described in the article commencing on page 303. + +SEPTEMBER + +Agapanthus taxes the soil severely, and must have ample nourishment in +pots. It is also one of the thirstiest bulbs known, but is quite hardy, +and will thrive in the open if planted in a deep rich loam at any time +from September until March. + +Alstroemeria.—Although related to the Ixia, this bulb may be trusted to +the open ground in all but the coldest districts of the country. It is +not suitable for pot culture, but in a dry border it may be allowed to +remain undisturbed for years. Plant quite nine inches deep. + +Amaryllis.—The proper time to commence operations with these superb +flowers is during their season of rest, which ranges from September to +March. Pot them in firm loam, enriched with leaf-mould, and containing +a fair proportion of sand. Very little water is required until growth +begins, and then it must be increased with the progress of the plant. +Start them by plunging the pots in a temperature of about 65°, and when +they are coming into bloom, remove to a warm greenhouse or +conservatory. After the flowers have faded, allow the plants to +complete their growth, and then slowly reduce them to a resting +condition without permitting the bulbs at any time to become quite dry. + +Anemone.—The tuberous varieties are valuable as pot plants, not only +for their flowers, but also for the distinctive character of the +foliage. The roots may be potted from now up to the end of the year, so +that a succession of flowers can be easily insured. When plunged in a +pit or frame to preserve them from frost, watering is all the attention +they will need, but of this there must be plenty, particularly when the +plants begin to flower. Pot the roots between one and two inches deep, +in rich soil, and with the eyes upwards. A large pot will accommodate +several roots. + +Babiana.—Treat in the same manner as the Ixia. + +Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.—Lift the plants which are in the open ground, +and pot them to complete their season in the greenhouse; but if they +are not wanted for this purpose, they may remain in the beds until +October. When the stems fall, still retain the bulbs in their own pots, +and store them in a dry cellar or shed, under a layer of cocoa-nut +fibre. They need protection from both damp and cold. Neither hurry the +drying off of the roots, nor attempt to force the growth in spring, but +wait until they start naturally. + +Calceolarias ought now to be in large 60-pots, placed close to the +glass to insure a dwarf habit. During sharp weather they may be taken +down, but should be restored immediately the danger is past. Much heat +in winter will be injurious; a range of 45° to 55° should be considered +the limits of variation in temperature. Pot the plants on as growth +demands. + +Crocus.—For indoor decoration, two or three separate lots should be +potted at intervals of a fortnight; and the named varieties are worth +this mode of treatment, both for the size of their flowers and for the +exceptional brightness and diversity of their colours. Use a light rich +soil, and put six to eight corms in a 48-sized pot. They may also be +grown in quantity in large seed-pans or in shallow boxes. When coming +into flower, the roots may be freed from soil to facilitate the packing +into ornamental baskets or vases. + +Crown Imperial.—This bulb requires a rich loamy soil and an open +position to bring it to perfection. Still, it will flower +satisfactorily in a shrubbery, or under the shade of trees; and, so far +as the roots are concerned, there is no occasion to divide them more +than once in three seasons. Plant during this month, and on to the +beginning of November. + +Cyclamens in pots will pay for an occasional dose of weak manure water. +Shut the plants up in good time on chilly evenings. If a sowing of seed +was not made last month it should be put in without delay. + +The hardy varieties, such as _C. europœum_ and _C. Coum_, are +cultivated out of doors; and in some of the warmer districts of the +South of England the Persian varieties can also be successfully grown +in the open. They are suitable for rockwork, or for little nooks and +sheltered corners, in which some gardens abound. For their success good +drainage, a warm position, and plenty of water in dry weather are +essential. September and October are the best months for planting out. + +Dog’s-tooth Violet.—For small beds, or in front of a rockery, these +compact and interesting little plants are valuable for spring +flowering, and are worth cultivating for their foliage alone. They also +succeed in pots, and thrive in peat, or in sandy loam and leaf-mould. A +48-sized pot will accommodate five bulbs. + +Freesia.—Towards the end of the month these bulbs will be ready for +removal to a cool greenhouse or cold pit. No heat is required—merely +protection from frost and excessive moisture. The stems are so slender +that support must be given early. As the plants do not bear re-potting, +the danger of exhausted soil can be met by administering weak manure +water occasionally. + +Fritillarias belong to the same order as the Crown Imperial, and the +conditions which suit that plant will answer for all the Fritillarias. +The bulbs thrive in a deep loam, and they are quite hardy. + +Gladiolus.—The potting of the early-flowering varieties should be +commenced this month and continued according to requirements. As the +corms of these Gladioli are small, several may be placed in a 32-sized +pot. No great amount of heat is wanted for these flowers, a temperature +of about 55° being quite sufficient for them. + +Gloxinia.—As the season of rest approaches, place the plants in any +airy position, and gradually reduce the supply of water until the +leaves fall off. The bulbs may be stored for the winter in peat or in +dry moss. The majority of growers, however, never store a bulb, but +rely entirely on seedlings raised annually. + +Hyacinth.—To grow this flower successfully in glasses demands no +horticultural skill, for children often produce very creditable +specimens. It only requires the intelligent application of certain +well-understood principles. Like all other bulbs, the Hyacinth should +form its roots before top-growth begins. The flower is cultivated in +water for two reasons: the pleasure derived from seeing the entire +plant, and the decorative value insured by this mode of treating it. As +darkness retards top-growth, but does not delay the production of +roots, it is usual to place the glasses in a cool cellar; and if this +happens to be airy as well as cool and dark, there is no better place +in which to start the bulbs. Still, it must be admitted that darkness +is not essential for the development of roots. But darkness and +coolness alike tend to delay the growth of foliage until roots are +formed. Therefore, if the cultivator resolves to have the plants in +view from the commencement, he must place them in a low and uniform +temperature. The water should always be pure and bright, although it +must not quite touch the bulb, or the latter will rot. Wires to support +the flowers are necessary, and those which are manufactured expressly +for the purpose are both neat and effective. A rather low temperature, +and free access of pure air, should be regarded as necessary conditions +of health in all stages of growth. Hence it will be obvious that a +mantelpiece, with its fluctuations of heat and cold, is a most +unsuitable position for the glasses. We should like to add, that +notwithstanding the high qualities of the Hyacinth, it is quite a +cottager’s flower. + +For pot culture the Hyacinth is a grand subject. Prepare the pots +carefully as to drainage, and fill them with a light, rich, porous +compost. Remove a little soil from the central surface, and into this +hollow lightly press the bulb, and press the soil somewhat firmly round +it, leaving about half the bulb visible. If too much power is employed, +the soil will be so compact that when the roots begin to grow, instead +of penetrating, they will lift the bulb out of its proper position. +There is always some risk of this, and it accounts for the practice of +heaping over the pots a considerable weight of ashes. Of course this +covering serves a second purpose in checking leaf-growth until the +roots are established. Any cool and safe position will answer for +storing the pots at this stage. For the earliest supply of flowers +select single varieties, as these naturally come into bloom somewhat in +advance of the doubles. When the tops begin to grow, remove the pots to +a greenhouse or frame, and subdue the light for a brief period until +the natural colour is gained. Thence transfer to the forcing-pit as +requirements demand; and they will need a week or ten days to prepare +them for use. It is easy to secure a continuous supply of Hyacinths +from Christmas onwards by forcing successive batches of roots until the +final display will come into flower without artificial assistance. To +augment the beauty of the flowers employ as little heat as may be +necessary, and defer the finishing temperature until the latest moment +possible. For general decorative purposes, small pots will be found +extremely convenient when a brilliant display is wanted in a limited +compass; good specimens can be grown in the 48-size, but for exhibition +the 32-size must be resorted to. Neither in pots nor in glasses should +the bulbs be allowed to send up leaves from between the outer scales; +these rob the central growth, and they should be carefully removed with +a sharp knife. + +Hyacinths, Italian and Roman, should be potted in successive batches to +provide a continuous supply. When the roots are formed the pots may be +removed to a pit or frame, and to the forcing temperature as the buds +show. If they have been brought on gradually, a very few days in a warm +pit or house will throw them into bloom. It is a source of astonishment +to us that these flowers are not more extensively grown in private +gardens. Immense numbers are annually consigned to the London markets, +and find a ready sale for bouquets and table decoration. Of course +these Hyacinths will not bear comparison with the splendid named +varieties which come later, but the Italian and Roman classes are ready +at a time when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the +same class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to +ornamental contrivances. + +Iris.—The tuberous varieties are all perfectly hardy, and may be +planted at any time from August to December. Put into light soil three +inches deep and nine inches apart they will give no trouble, except to +lift and divide them every second or third season. + +Ixia.—Babianas, Ixias, and Sparaxis may all be treated in precisely the +same manner. In sheltered districts in the Southern counties they can +be grown in the open ground; but otherwise the culture must be in pots +under the shelter of a frame or greenhouse. A 48-sized pot will hold +four or five bulbs, and they will thrive in any soil which contains a +large proportion of sand. In spring they may be transferred to a sandy +border, or they can be kept in pots for a couple of years when well +managed. + +Jonquil.—The treatment recommended for Narcissus will suit this highly +perfumed flower, both for forcing and in the open ground. + +Narcissus.—It is undesirable to hold these bulbs in a dry condition +longer than is necessary, and those intended for pot culture should be +got in promptly. A low temperature must be relied on for keeping back +such as are intended to flower late. The Double Roman and the Paper +White naturally come into bloom in advance of other sorts, and these +should be selected for the earliest display. Give them a rich porous +soil, and pot them rather firmly, but not so firmly as to render it +impossible for the roots to penetrate, or the bulb will be raised above +the soil. Place them in a cool spot, covered with suitable material to +keep the bulbs in their places, and to prevent the foliage from +starting prematurely. When top-growth commences, the pots must go into +some house or frame where they can progress slowly until the moment +arrives for forcing them. If the buds just show, about a week in a +bottom heat of 65° will suffice to bring them to perfection. A +succession can be brought forward at intervals by the same means, until +the final lot will flower without artificial aid. And for the comfort +of those who do not possess heating apparatus, we may add that the +flowers grown naturally will probably be finer than those which have +been forced. + +Narcissus may also be grown in glasses in the manner recommended for +Hyacinths, or in bowls and other suitable receptacles filled with +moss-fibre. + +In the open ground Narcissus should be planted in quantity, especially +in spots where it appears to be naturally at home, and one of the most +charming effects is obtained by putting them in the rough grass +adjoining shrubbery borders. Instead of cutting the grass, it must be +allowed to throw up flower-heads, and this affords the bulbs time to +mature in readiness for the following season. The many forms of Double +and Single Daffodil are effective border flowers, and the numerous +varieties of Narcissus should be grown in clumps and patches in every +spot which is suitable and vacant. In the reserve border of many +gardens large numbers of Pheasant’s Eye and other Narcissus are planted +to supply flowers for cutting. They are peculiarly valuable for the +purpose, and if cut when scarcely ready they will develop in water, and +last for many days. In planting, be guided as to distance by the size +of the bulb, allowing four or five inches between small sorts, and six +to nine inches for large varieties; depth, six to nine inches. + +Oxalis.—Except in a few sheltered districts, it will be necessary to +cultivate this exceedingly pretty flower in frames, or in a sunny, airy +greenhouse. It may also be forced in the stove with success. Put +several bulbs in a pot, and give them a light soil with plenty of sand +in it. + +Snowdrop.—It does not improve the roots of this exquisite little +favourite to keep them out of the ground, and they should, if possible, +be planted early. + +Sparaxis needs the same treatment as advised for the Ixia. + +Sweet Pea.—Exhibitors of Sweet Peas and those who endeavour to secure +the finest sprays for decorative purposes, commence the preparation of +the ground during the present month and incur whatever expense may be +necessary to insure a deep bed of rich friable loam in which the roots +can ramify freely. It is also the practice to sow seeds about the +middle of September in order to provide sturdy well-rooted plants in +readiness for transfer to the prepared plots in early spring. Either +pots or boxes may be used, and a frame is sufficient to bring the +seedlings safely through the winter. The method is dealt with in detail +on page 305. + +From mid-September to the end of October, according to the locality, is +an excellent time for sowing Sweet Peas outdoors where the soil is +light and the situation fairly warm. Plants from autumn-sown seed are +generally more robust and produce finer flowers than those raised from +seed sown in the open in spring. + +Tropæolum tuberosum.—In potting the tuberous varieties, insure +efficient drainage, and use a compost of rich light loam mixed with +sand. The foliage will trail over the sides of wire baskets with +graceful effect, but it may be trained around balloon-shaped wires +specially made for these flowers. The bulbs remain dormant all through +the winter, and may be started at any time from September to March. + +Tulip.—The early class of Tulips is of great value for forcing because +of their brilliant colours and elegant forms. They take kindly to a +high temperature, but forcing should not be commenced too early, nor +should the heat be allowed to exceed 65° at the finish. Plunging is the +most satisfactory method. Several bulbs may be put into one pot, but it +is more convenient to grow them singly, so that flowers in exactly the +same stage of development may be selected for use at one time. A +continuous supply may be secured by potting batches at short intervals. +When in bloom the roots can be washed free from soil for placing in +vases. Decayed turf, with decomposed cow-manure and a proportion of +sand, make an excellent potting soil for Tulips, and it will be all the +more suitable if laid up in a heap for twelve months after being mixed. + +OCTOBER + +Anemone.—The tuberous-rooted Anemones may be planted in the open at any +time from September to March, and from successive plantings a +continuous display will be obtained from February until far into +spring. For the choice named varieties it is customary for specialists +to make elaborate preparations, into which we need not enter here. +Splendid flowers can be grown in clumps and beds in ordinary gardens by +deep digging, and the employment of a liberal dressing of decayed +cow-manure. Plant the roots from four to six inches apart, and at a +uniform depth of about three inches. In a heavy, retentive soil it is +not advisable to risk a collection of named Anemones until January, +unless a deep layer of light compost can be placed in the drills where +the roots are to be planted. + +Annuals, Hardy.—On light soils it will be safe to transplant these now; +but on heavy land the risk is too great, and we advise waiting until +February or March. Lift the plants with as much soil attached to the +roots as possible. + +Crocus.—Several flowers bloom in advance of, or as early as, the +Crocus; but no other bulb of its own period can compare with it for +brightness and effective colouring. Plant during this month and +November, in groups and patterns wherever there is a vacant plot and +bulbs can be found to fill it. Put them in at a uniform depth of about +three inches. Drills are easy to draw, and are better for the bulbs +than the objectionable plan of dibbling. + +Cyclamen seed may be sown again this month. If properly grown, +seedlings raised now will bloom splendidly next autumn. + +Ferraria.—See Tigridia, page 379. + +Gladiolus.—By the end of the month lift roots which have flowered, even +if the stems are still green. Label them, and hang in an airy place to +dry. A little later remove the foliage with a sharp knife. Then lay out +the roots for about a fortnight, and when ready store them in paper +bags or boxes placed on a dry shelf, secure from vermin. + +Hollyhock.—In favoured districts and in light soil it will be safe to +winter this plant in the open ground with merely the protection of a +little dry litter. But in damp adhesive land it is perilous, and a cold +frame will afford the requisite protection until May returns. + +Hyacinth.—Considering the magnificent appearance of this flower, its +culture is most simple. Any fairly good garden soil which is not too +damp in winter will grow it; and the bulbs may be planted in clumps or +beds in any design or arrangement of colour that taste may dictate. At +six inches apart there will be a brilliant display, but the distance is +quite optional. The crowns of the bulbs should not be less than four or +more than six inches below the surface; the greater depth will slightly +retard the flowering. When planted they will give no more trouble until +the time arrives for lifting them to make room for other occupants. + +Hyacinth, Feather, is an exceedingly beautiful border flower during May +and early in June. The stems are from nine to fifteen inches high, and +carry flowers whose petals are cut into slender filaments. It will grow +in pots and in the open, in any soil which suits Hyacinths. Plant a +good number in each group. + +Hyacinth, Grape.—An interesting dark blue flower, which should be +freely grown in mixed borders to bloom in April. Singly it is useless; +plant good-sized clumps in soil which answers for bulbs. + +Hyacinths, Miniature, are the delight of children, in whose honour many +of the varieties are named. Except for their diminutive size, they are +in all respects equal to their larger relations. The culture in pots, +glasses, and beds is similar to that advised for the full-sized roots, +save that the planting in open ground need not be quite so deep, three +inches of soil over the crowns being sufficient. + +Hyacinths, Italian and Roman.—Uncover the pots containing the earliest +planting, and at first place them in a dimly lighted position. The +application of heat will depend on the time the flowers are wanted; but +when the plants are forward enough, plunge them in a temperature of +65°, and in about a week they will be ready for use. + +Lachenalias rarely attain the proportions they are capable of for want +of water in their growing state. They thrive in peat, and may be forced +into flower at almost any season. Except in warm and sheltered gardens, +they must not be planted in the open. Yet only sufficient warmth is +required to keep frost at bay. + +Leucojums are perfectly hardy bulbs which will grow in any garden. The +flowers resemble Snowdrops, but are much larger. Plant in dense groups. + +Narcissus.—From the natural characteristics of this bulb it is +desirable that it should be planted early. Sometimes, however, it is +impossible, consistently with other arrangements, either to pot or to +plant Narcissus before October or November. In such cases it is +consoling to know that from sound, well-ripened roots good flowers may +be confidently anticipated, even from late plantings. + +Ornithogalum.—In the open this bulb must have some protection during +winter, to save its large fleshy roots from injury by frost. A heap of +light manure or dry litter will answer the purpose. Plant six inches +deep. + +Scilla præcox can be grown almost anywhere, and in a light rich soil it +blooms profusely. The bulbs will safely pass the severest winter in the +open ground, and flower in February or March. The exact time depends on +the climate and position. In sheltered spots and mild districts they +will naturally bloom earlier than in bleak and exposed quarters. Plant +in masses or lines, and the bulbs may remain undisturbed for years. A +dense row makes an exceedingly beautiful background to Snowdrops. The +other Scillas are equally hardy and valuable, and they all flower with +great freedom. + +Triteleia uniflora is a handsome white-flowering hardy bulb, which will +grow freely in any garden. It is adapted for the company of any of the +dwarf-growing bulbs, and may be employed in either lines or clumps. +Plant the roots three inches apart and two inches deep. + +Tuberoses are valued for the purity of their white flowers, and for the +agreeable perfume they exhale. The bulbs may be potted singly or three +in a pot. They thrive in a compost of loam and leaf-mould, and need a +bottom heat ranging between 60° and 70° to bring them to perfection. +The African bulbs are generally ready in September and the importations +from America arrive in December and January. + +Tulips may be planted in the open ground at any time during the month. +We shall say nothing as to the arrangement of colours, nor as to the +form of the beds, for both points admit of endless diversity. The mixed +border may be enlivened with groups of many varieties, and if they are +judiciously selected, there will be a succession of flowers for several +weeks in the spring. + +Wallflower.—After the summer bedding plants are cleared, Wallflowers +may be usefully employed to fill beds with green foliage all the +winter. They will flower freely in spring, when their colour and +fragrance will be especially welcome, and they can be removed in time +to make way for a different display for the summer. + +Winter Aconite is not dismayed by frost or snow, but will put forth its +golden blossoms in the dreariest days of February, and after the +flowers have passed away the foliage will remain as an ornament. To put +in single roots is useless; it is far better to plant a few large +patches than to fritter away the flower in a number of small and +inconspicuous groups. + +NOVEMBER + +Cyclamen.—Where there is a large demand for this flower, another sowing +may be made this month, unless it was done in October. With so +important a subject it is not wise to depend on a single venture. The +seedlings will afford a valuable succession to those started in August. + +Gladiolus.—The soil which answers best for the autumn-flowering section +is a medium friable loam, with a cool rich subsoil. A light loam can be +made suitable by trenching, and putting a thick layer of cow-manure at +the bottom of each trench. And a heavy soil may be reduced to the +proper condition by the free admixture of light loam or sand. Autumn is +the proper time for doing this work, and the ground should be left +rough, so that it may benefit by winter frosts. Wireworms are deadly +enemies to the Gladiolus corms, and an effort should be made to clear +them out. Happily, they will flock to traps such as Potatoes and Rape +cake, and their destruction is a mere question of daily attention. +Planting must, of course, be deferred until spring. + +Hyacinthus candicans is generally grown in the company of other flowers +which attain to something like its own imposing proportions. In good +soil the spikes grow three feet high. It may be planted from this time +until March. + +Lilies are an ornament to the cottage garden, and they grace the +grandest conservatory. Many of the most superb varieties, including the +king of all the race, _L. auratum_, can be magnificently flowered in +the open border; and we have seen fine specimens of the _Lancifolium_ +varieties grown in pots without the aid of pit or frame. It is +therefore obvious that there are no difficulties in the culture of +Lilies. In borders the best soil for them is a deep, rich, moist loam. +Peat and leaf-mould also answer; but a stiff clay will not do unless it +has been cultivated and mixed with lighter stuff. Plant the roots at +least six inches deep, at any time they are in a dormant state, or can +be obtained in pots. Their position in the border should be clearly +marked, or the roots may sustain injury when the soil is forked over. + +The noble appearance of _L. auratum_ will always command for it a +prominent place in the conservatory or greenhouse. It will grow in +sandy peat, or in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand. The bulb +should be put into a small pot at first. When this is full of roots, +transfer to a larger size, and shift occasionally until the flower-buds +appear, when re-potting must cease. A cool house will bring the plant +to perfection, although it will bear a high temperature if wanted +early. During growth water must be given freely and be gradually +reduced when the flowering season is over. + +The _Lancifolium_ varieties require the same treatment, but it is usual +to put several in one large pot. After the flowering is ended, instead +of allowing the bulbs to become quite dry, keep them moist enough to +prevent the fibrous roots from perishing, and they will start with all +the greater vigour when the time arrives for repotting next season. + +Lily of the Valley.—The forcing of this favourite flower generally +begins in November, and it is important to secure roots which are +thoroughly matured for the purpose. They must be finished in a high +temperature, and if managed with judgment there will be plenty of +foliage to set off the long spikes of charming white bells. When +planted in the open ground a shaded spot should be chosen, which must +be freely enriched with leaf-mould, and the plants will not need to be +lifted for four or five years. + +Ranunculus.—On a light dry soil, where there is no danger of the roots +sustaining injury during winter, this is a suitable time for planting +all the varieties. To do them justice the land must be liberally +dressed with decayed manure, and the longer the bed can be made ready +before planting, the better will it answer. Put the roots in drills +drawn six inches apart and two inches deep and cover with fine soil. +For retentive land it is advisable to defer planting until February. + +Tritonia.—Perhaps the best way of treating this flower is to pot the +bulbs now or in December, and keep them in frames until April, when +they may be transferred to the open ground. A dry soil and a sunny spot +should be found for them. + +Tulip.—There is no better time for planting Tulips in beds than the +first half of this month. The bulbs should be covered with four or five +inches of soil according to size, and it is important that each kind +should be put in at a uniform depth to insure a simultaneous display. +On a heavy soil draw deep drills, and partially fill them with light +compost, on which the roots should be planted. The late single +varieties are the Tulips which were formerly so highly prized by +florists. For these bulbs it was the custom to prepare the soil with +extraordinary care when the Tulip craze was at its height. After the +amazing folly of paying 300l. for a single bulb, the minor folly of +extravagance in preparing the soil may be readily pardoned. Happily +that phase of the business has passed away, and handsome Tulips are now +grown without such a prodigal expenditure of money and labour. The site +for this flower should be sunny, the soil fairly rich, and the drainage +good. With these conditions insured, and roots which are sound and +dense, it is easy to obtain a magnificent show of Tulips. + +Zephyranthes Candida can be grown in any soil, and if possible the +bulbs should be planted in some spot where they may remain unmolested +through several seasons. The flowers appear about the end of July, +resembling a White Crocus in form, and the blooming continues until +cold weather sets in. Planting may be done between November and March. + +DECEMBER + +Only the idle or the half-hearted gardener will complain that he has no +work to do in the short dark days of this month. Although there may be +little or nothing to plant or sow, and few flowers need repotting, yet +there are soils to obtain and store for future use; former heaps to +turn over and remake; dead leaves to remove from plants in pits and +houses; stakes and neat sticks to prepare for subjects which will need +support by-and-by; beds and borders to enrich, and many other duties to +perform. In the evenings, too, there are new combinations and fresh +harmonies in colour to be designed for beds and groups in borders; the +requirements for the coming season to consider while experience gained +during the closing year is still fresh in the memory; the position of +plants in pits and frames and houses to forecast, so that the plan of +the summer campaign may be clearly understood, and all the resources of +the garden be under intelligent control. The fluctuations of the +thermometer have also to be watched, and means adopted to save plants +from injury by a sudden fall of temperature. Altogether, there are +abundant sources of profitable employment for those who have a mind to +work. + +Bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, &c., which have not been +planted, will have commenced growing, notwithstanding the precautions +taken to prevent it, thus showing that they ought to be in the ground. +The growth has been made at the expense of the bulb itself, for there +are no fibrous roots from which to draw support. Therefore it can +scarcely be expected that the flowers from very late plantings will be +quite so good as the same bulbs would have produced had they been put +in at an earlier period. Still there are cases when the delay is +unavoidable, and it is reassuring to know that sound bulbs carefully +set at the proper depth will produce flowers only in a degree inferior +to those from earlier plantings. + +Bulbs in store, such as Begonia, Dahlia, Gladiolus, and Gloxinia, +should be passed in review. Examination will almost certainly reveal +some unsound specimens, and their removal may save valuable companions +from their contaminating influence. This practice should be followed up +about once a fortnight until all are eventually planted. + + + + +THE PESTS OF GARDEN PLANTS + + +The life-history of plant pests and ground vermin, with the best means +of saving various crops from their ravages, are dealt with in a series +of valuable leaflets issued by the Ministry of Agriculture and +Fisheries. These leaflets embrace a very large number of subjects, +several of which belong to the farm and the orchard and are beyond the +scope of the present volume. Others are rarely met with, but concerning +those which are common to the majority of gardens we offer information +which will, we hope, enable readers to safeguard their crops from +disaster. + +When adverse weather operates injuriously on vegetation the plagues +that infest garden plants usually acquire increased power in proportion +to the degree of debility to which vegetation is reduced. This +circumstance perfectly accords with the general law of Nature, and is +full of instruction as to the means of saving plants from serious +injury by vermin. The keen, dry east wind that so often jeopardises +fruit crops is usually followed by visitations of fly and maggot, and +in this case the cause is beyond human power or forethought. But +neglect of watering and air-giving to pot plants can be avoided. Good +cultivation not only insures fine specimens, but is often the means of +preventing the plants from failing under the attacks of Aphis, Mealy +Bug, and other enemies against which the gardener has to fight an +unceasing battle. + +Insects are among the frailest of living creatures and they perish at a +touch. As they breathe through the pores of the skin, water alone—the +promoter of life and cleanliness—is death to them; and they are still +more subject to sure destruction when to the water is added an active +poison, such as tobacco, or a substance that adheres to them and stops +the process of breathing, such as glue, clay, sulphur, soft soap, and +the numerous preparations that are specially made to annihilate insect +hosts. + +The various stages through which the larger insects pass place them +within our power at some period of their existence. The butterfly may +float beyond the reach of harm, but in the caterpillar or the chrysalis +state it can be dealt with effectually. Again, we may be powerless to +destroy the Chafer grubs as they feed or hibernate beneath turf, but in +their perfect state as Cockchafers or Rose Chafers many may be beaten +down during quiet evenings, and others can be shaken from Roses at dawn +or sunset. A knowledge of the life-history of injurious insects will +suggest what is to be done and the right time for doing it, so that +often by simple treatment they may be destroyed. + +The expense of preparing mixtures and washes may be in some degree +lessened by economy of application. A drenching-board fitted on a firm +frame, should be provided in every place where plant-growing is carried +on to any extent. The board should slope from a resting ridge at the +base. The plant in its pot may be laid on the board, with the bottom of +the pot against the resting ridge, and a pail should be put to catch +the liquid used as it drains from the plant after syringing. Every +general washing or fumigating should be followed by another at an +interval of from a week to a fortnight, because, although the first +operation may kill every insect, there will be many living eggs left, +and these renew the race, and very soon bring the plants into as bad a +state as ever, unless consigned to a happy despatch as their parents +were. In some cases it will be more economical to feed than to destroy +the vermin; and, as a rule, feeding vermin does not add to their +numbers, in the same or any future season, for insect life is so +strangely dependent on certain conditions of temperature, &c., that if +the season is not favourable to a particular kind it will be scarce, no +matter how plentiful it may have been in a previous year. In the case +of the Turnip Fly, feeding is frequently the cheapest and surest way of +saving the crop. It is customary with Dahlia-growers, and, indeed, with +the growers of florists’ flowers generally, to sow Lettuces where the +flowers are to be planted, for so long as Lettuces are on the spot +Slugs and Snails will prefer them to other food. As the Lettuces +themselves serve the purpose of traps, the Snails and Slugs congregated +about them may, towards evening, be caught and destroyed. + +In using a mixture for the first time, it is advisable to try it on one +plant only, and that, of course, the worst in the collection affected. +If the preparation is too strong, the truth will be declared by the +state of the plant within twenty-four hours; thus a little caution may +prevent a great loss. Another good rule is to employ the several +remedies in a rather weak state until experience has been gained, for +not only has the strength of the medicine to be considered, but the +management of the patient before and after it is administered. It is +above all things important to be thorough in the cleansing of plants, +because they succumb rapidly to the attacks of insects, and should be +effectually and promptly cleaned or consigned to the fire. If left in a +foul state they spread the infection to all around. In the space at our +command it is only possible to notice a few of the garden pests, and we +begin with one of the most frequent and troublesome of plant foes. + +Aphis in some form or other is the most persistent and perplexing of +plant pests. The Green Fly is the enemy of the softer kinds of +vegetation, and the Blue and the Black Fly are common plagues of the +Peach-house and the orchard. The tender body of the Aphis is instantly +affected by conditions unfavourable to its life, and it is therefore +easily killed; but its marvellous power of reproduction renders its +extinction impossible, for in every instance a few escape, and very +soon re-establish their race. Two methods for the destruction of Aphis +are in vogue. One is fumigation by tobacco, either pure or in some of +the numerous preparations offered, including several popular +insecticides which have nicotine as a basis. These are both clean and +effective. When a houseful of plants is infested no time should be +lost, and the evening is most suitable for dealing with the pests. The +plants ought to be quite dry and the house closely shut. A dense cloud +of smoke without flame is required. Allow the smoke to do its deadly +work during the night. Early next morning syringe the plants freely, +and in the course of an hour or so give air. The other remedy is to use +one of the many liquids which are inimical to the life of Aphis and +other insect pests. To economise the liquid it is advisable to fill a +pail or tub and immerse the plants individually. Take one in the right +hand and spread the fingers of the left hand over the surface of the +soil to prevent an accident; then turn the plant over and plunge the +foliage in the liquid, moving it up and down briskly two or three +times. If this is not practicable syringe the plants, taking care to +wet the leaves on both sides. On the following day syringe with pure +soft water. + +Rose trees may generally be cleansed of fly by means of the garden +engine and pure water only, the essential point being to direct the +water on the trees with some amount of force for several evenings in +succession whenever the fly threatens to obtain the mastery. + +Soft soap dissolved in water makes a cheap and effectual wash for +exterminating all kinds of Aphis, and to these ingredients quassia may +with advantage be added. One pound of soft soap will suffice for ten +gallons of water, into which stir the extract obtained by boiling one +pound of quassia chips in water. Pot plants can be dipped in it as +already advised, or the solution may be applied by means of the +syringe. On the following day the plants should be cleansed with pure +soft water. + +The Bean Aphis, also known as the Bean Plant Louse, or Black Dolphin +_(Aphis rumicis)_. Our illustration shows the wingless female and pupa +natural size and magnified. The pupa is black with greyish white +mottlings, while the female is deep greenish black in colour. This +insect commonly attacks the young shoots and tops of Broad Beans. It is +well to cut off the infected tops and burn them. Should the attack be +repeated spray the Beans with a solution of soft soap and quassia. + +[Illustration: Bean Aphis] BEAN APHIS +_Aphis fabæ_ (pupa and female) + +The Pea Siphon-Aphis (_Siphonophora pisi_, Kalt).—Among the aphides +peculiar to vegetables this is one of the most common. + +[Illustration: Pea Siphon-Aphis] PEA SIPHON-APHIS +_Siphonophora pisis_ + +Our illustration shows the natural size and an enlarged figure of the +greenish-winged and green-tinted wingless females, as produced, not +from eggs, but alive and developed. This insect is occasionally very +destructive to Pea crops. + +American Blight, or Woolly Aphis, generally appears first on trees +grafted on dwarfing stocks, particularly the bad forms of the Paradise +Apple. Rapidly the mischief spreads, healthy trees become infested, and +unless checked an orchard is speedily ruined. Andrew Murray says that +in bad cases of American Blight it is sometimes necessary to root up +and burn all the trees, and let the ground remain unplanted for a year +or two. Fruit trees should be examined periodically for this pest, and +immediately the woolly spots are detected small tainted boughs should +be pruned away, and from the mainstems and large branches diseased +spots can be pared off. The operation may need a bold and vigorous hand +if the trees are to be saved, and it is important that every scrap +should be burned. There is almost certain to be a further appearance of +the Blight, which should be destroyed by one of the many remedies known +to be effectual. Fir Tree Oil Insecticide has proved to be an excellent +remedy. Gishurst Compound, in the proportion of eight ounces to a +gallon of water, with sufficient clay added to render it adhesive, +makes a capital winter paint for Apple trees. But there is no cheap +remedy equal to soft soap for smothering American Blight in the +crannies of the bark. The soap may be rubbed into the diseased spots, +or as a wash it can be brushed into the boughs. + +[Illustration: American Blight] AMERICAN BLIGHT +_Schizoneura lanigera_ + +Our illustration shows a piece of Apple twig with the aphides and their +woolly material natural size. The enlarged figures represent the winged +female and the wingless larva of the Apple Blight Aphis _(Schizoneura +lanigera_). The insect is deep purplish brown in colour, and the +well-known bluish white cottony material naturally exudes from it. + +The Carrot Fly (_Psila rosæ_, Fab.), with its larva, pupa, and perfect +insect, is illustrated natural size and enlarged. The ochreous shining +larvæ live upon the tap-roots of the Carrot, and by eating into them +cause them to rot. In colour the body of the fly is an intensely dark +greenish black, with a rusty ochreous head. The presence of the larvæ +in the root is made known by the change in the colour of the leaves +from green to yellow, and the attacked plants should be promptly forked +out entire and burned. + +[Illustration: Carrot Fly] CARROT FLY +_Psila Rosæ_ (with maggot and chrysalis) + +It is well to dig the ground in autumn, so that the earth may be +exposed to the frosts of winter and the pupæ to the attention of birds. +After sowing, spray the Carrot bed with paraffin emulsion. Spray again +after germination, and a third time when thinning is finished. The +emulsion to be made by dissolving half a pound of soft soap in a gallon +of boiling water. While still boiling, pour the liquid into two gallons +of paraffin and churn thoroughly until a buttery mass results. This +will keep for a long time in tins. Before use, dilute with twenty times +the quantity of water—soft water if possible. This is an excellent +preventive. After the work of thinning, the fly may also be kept off +the plants by scattering over them ashes, sand, or earth, impregnated +with paraffin. Carbolic powder and soot are both disagreeable to the +insect. It has been observed that when singling the disturbance of the +soil is favourable to the operations of the Carrot Fly. A copious +watering when the task is ended will firm the earth round the remaining +roots, and prevent the fly from easily getting down to deposit eggs. + +Carrots and Parsnips are often attacked by the larva of a Carrot Moth +(_Depressaria cicutella_), which spins webs for security while feeding, +and sometimes works havoc among the foliage. A simple remedy is to +shake the caterpillars from the leaves of the plants, when they can be +destroyed by the use of lime. + +Celery Fly.—The apparent blisters in Celery leaves are spots deficient +of leaf-green, which the larva of the Celery Fly has eaten. Dusting +newly-planted Celery with lime or soot may do something to prevent the +fly from laying its eggs, but the most certain preventive is to boil +half a pound of coal tar in one gallon of water for twenty minutes, add +fifty gallons of clear water, and syringe the plants about noon once or +twice from the middle to the end of June. When once the grub has made a +home, it should be crushed by pinching the leaf between the finger and +thumb, or the injured portions of the leaves should be cut out and +burned. In doing this it must always be remembered that the leaves are +as much needed by the plant as the roots, and every leaf removed tends +to diminish the vigour of the plant. Our illustration shows the Celery +Fly (formerly known as _Tephritis onopordinis_, but now called _Acidia +heraclei_) natural size and magnified. This fly is also destructive to +the leaves of Parsnips, and is named _onopordinis_ from its habit of +frequenting the Cotton Thistle (_Onopordon Acanthium_). The larva is +white to very pale green, the fly is shining tawny. An Ichneumon Fly +detects the larva of the Celery Fly in the Celery and Parsnip leaves, +and lays its eggs in the body of the larva. These parasites, named +_Alysia apii_, assist in reducing the numbers of the Celery Fly. + +[Illustration: Celery Fly] CELERY FLY AND LARVA +_Tephritis onopordinis_ + +All Celery refuse should be destroyed by fire. Infested ground may, if +suitable, be trenched, bringing the subsoil to the surface and burying +the top soil containing the pupæ. Frequent rough digging and the +exposure of fresh surfaces to be searched by birds will also do +something to abate the number of this pest. But in bad cases it will be +necessary to resort to gas-lime, which poisons the pupæ and eventually +benefits the soil, although in the season immediately following its use +crops may be less satisfactory than usual. + +Onion Fly.—Onions are frequently attacked by the larvæ of the Onion +Fly, and in some instances the entire crop is destroyed. Our +illustration shows the natural size of the fly and maggot, with +magnified representations of both. The fly lays six to eight eggs on an +Onion plant, generally just above the ground. These eggs hatch in from +five to seven days, according to the temperature, and the maggots at +once burrow into the Onion. The result is soon visible in the +discoloration of the leaves which turn yellow and begin to decay. +Several generations of the insect, the scientific name of which is +_Phorbia cepetorum_, appear in the course of a single season. A close +ally is the Cabbage Root Fly (_P. brassicæ_), the destroyer of Cabbage +roots. + +[Illustration: Onion Fly] ONION FLY AND LARVA +_Anthomyia ceparum_ + +Among the numerous methods of preventing attack and of destroying the +grubs the following are worth attention:— + +Where this pest proves very troublesome it may be desirable to transfer +Onion growing to new ground until the infested land has been purged of +the pupæ. Instead of throwing useless Onion material on the waste heap +to afford the fly a home for its eggs, every scrap should be burned. As +the preparation of an Onion bed approaches completion, powdered lime +well mixed with soot, in the proportion of two bushels of the former to +one of the latter, may be sown evenly over the surface and raked in. +Sand impregnated with paraffin sown along the drills has answered as a +preventive. Vaporite is a destroyer of the pupæ; this preparation has +proved deadly to ground vermin generally. Earthing up the Onions was +proved by Miss Ormerod’s experiment to be effective. The objection to +this procedure is the probability of enlarged necks which are not +wanted. An emulsion, composed of one pint of paraffin, one pound of +soft soap mixed with ten gallons of water, thoroughly churned by a hand +syringe and sprayed over the young plants in a fine mist, is a valuable +preventive. The dose may be repeated after rainfall, if necessary. The +quantities named suffice for a small plot only. Soapsuds are +destructive to the maggots, disagreeable to the fly, and beneficial to +the young plants. The suds should be sprayed over the bed from a +watering can on the first appearance of a yellow colour in the grass. +As a final suggestion reference may be made to a singular fact which we +do not profess to explain, viz. that transplanted Onions are very +seldom touched by grub. The modern practice of raising seedlings under +glass in January or February, and planting out in open beds in April, +offers the advantage of a long season of growth combined with +comparative immunity from attack by the Onion Fly. + +Turnip Fly, or Flea, is well known to the gardener, and is the most +troublesome of all the aërial pests of the farm, and one with which it +is most difficult to cope, not only because of its general diffusion +and numbers, but because it produces a succession of broods throughout +the summer, and is therefore always in force, ready to devour the crop +immediately it appears. The so-called ‘Fly’ is a small beetle named +_Haltica (Phyllotreta) nemorum_, strongly made, and decidedly +voracious. The larvæ are not to be feared, except that, of course, they +in due time become beetles. In the perfect state this winged jumping +insect makes havoc of the rising plant of Turnips, but the crop is only +in danger while in the seed-leaf stage. It is in the spring and early +summer chiefly that the ravages of these insects occasion perplexity, +for they awaken from their winter torpor active and hungry, and have a +ready appetite for almost any cruciferous plant. Hence we see the +leaves of Radishes pierced by them, and all such weeds as Charlock, +Cuckoo Flower, Hedge Garlic, and Water Cress serve them for food until +the Turnip crops are on the move, when they will travel miles, even +against the wind, to wreck the farmer’s hopes. The Cabbage Flea +(_Haltica oleracea_) in some districts is equally troublesome, if not +more so. Whole Cabbages may be destroyed by this pest, and even Hops +are often ruined by it. + +[Illustration: Turnip Fly] TURNIP FLY OR BEETLE +_Haltica nemorum_ (with larva and chrysalis) + +Preventive and remedial measures that can easily be carried out in a +garden may be impracticable on a farm. We propose to enumerate them +briefly as they occur to us, leaving the ultimate choice of weapons to +those who may unfortunately find occasion to use them. + +One precaution is to insure a quick germination of the seed and strong +growth of the plant in its seed-leaf stage. The cotyledons are tender +and tasty, perhaps sugary from Nature’s process of malting; and while +the seed-leaf is assailable the _Haltica_ makes the best of the shining +hour. The seed sown should be all of one age, and the newest possible, +because of the need for a quick and strong growth. When a powerful +artificial is sown with the seed, the quantity of seed must be +increased, as a proportion may be killed by the manure. It is important +always to drill Turnip seed; broadcasting seems to invite the Fly—at +all events, a drilled crop is generally safer. Before sowing, the seed +may be soaked in paraffin or turpentine. Of the two the latter appears +to be the more successful in keeping the insects at bay. + +Rolling an infested plant disturbs and weakens the insects and +stimulates the young plant. + +The sprinkling of slaked lime over the seedlings is at once a safe and +an efficient process, and possesses the additional advantage of being +beneficial to the plant. We are aware that it does not always succeed, +but we are inclined to attribute the failure to a bad quality of the +lime, or a careless method of employing it. There should be enough put +on to make the plants white, and they will be none the worse for the +whitening. Dustings of fine ashes or soot are scarcely less effective, +but salt must not be used, for it injures the plants and does not hurt +the beetle. All such dustings should be done in the early morning, +while the plants are wet with dew. To apply a dusting at midday, when +the sun shines gaily, is to waste time, and probably many of the +recorded failures might be explained if we knew at what hour and in +what sort of weather the work was done. Nets and sticking boards have +been tried and found effectual, and yet such things are rarely used. A +board thickly covered with white paint, drawn over the plot on a still, +sunny day, soon becomes a black board by the myriads of _Halticas_ that +jump at and remain attached to it, the victims of their extravagant +love of light. Old sacks soaked in paraffin and drawn over the drills +impart a disagreeable flavour to the leaves, and a very fine spray of +paraffin distributed by a machine specially constructed for the purpose +has proved effective. + +Finally, this, in common with all other insects in the winged state, +needs a dry air and some degree of warmth for its health and happiness. +Many kinds of larvæ need moisture, but no winged insect can abide +moisture long, and herein is a clue to the eradication of Turnip Fly. +By the simple process of spraying the plant three or four times a day, +until it is out of the seed-leaf, and the danger is over, it is +possible in the garden to wash out the _Haltica_; and any kind of +insecticide or flavouring, such as quassia, may be mingled with the +water to render the plants distasteful to the insects. + +The illustration on page 422 shows the Turnip Fly in its three stages, +and in each case of the natural size and magnified seven diameters. + +[Illustration: Daddy Longlegs] DADDY LONG LEGS +_Tipula_ (in various stages) + +Daddy Longlegs, or Crane Fly, in its perfect form of a fly (_Tipula +oleracea_) does no harm, but the grubs, known by the familiar name of +‘leather-jackets’ owing to the toughness of their skins, are terribly +destructive. During late summer and autumn the female fly deposits its +eggs in large numbers in turf, in garden soil and amongst garden +refuse. The eggs are hatched in a fortnight or so and the dark grubs +lie in the ground through the winter, inflicting their maximum, amount +of injury to young crops in spring and early summer. Where song birds +are scarce the Tipula is capable of utterly destroying grass and of +seriously ravaging the Kitchen Garden; but cultivation, aided by the +robins, thrushes, nightingales, and other birds, will keep the insect +within bounds, even after a hot summer favourable to its increase. +Where this pest is known to exist, an application of Vaporite at the +time of preparing ground for sowing or planting will destroy many of +the grubs. The regular use of the hoe is also to be recommended, for by +the disturbance of the soil the enemy is exposed to the sharp eye of +the robin and other feathered gardeners. + +Root-knot Eelworm.—One of the worst pests that a Cucumber-grower has to +deal with manifests itself by the presence of minute warts or +nodosities, chiefly on the rootlets. These warts, which are caused by +the action of innumerable small thread-like worms named _Heterodera +radicicola_, range from the size of a pin’s head to that of a pea, and +when they are present in large numbers the total failure of the +Cucumber crop is the invariable result. The eelworms are probably +introduced to Cucumber-houses in infected water. Each worm is about +one-seventyfifth of an inch in length and is at first coiled up inside +a transparent egg. At maturity the eggs crack open, and the worms on +emerging bore into the most tender rootlets, and there lay their eggs. +These eggs speedily hatch inside the plant and new eelworms are +produced, which traverse the rootlets in every direction. + +[Illustration: Cucumber Eel-worms and eggs] CUCUMBER EEL-WORMS AND EGGS +_Anguillulæ_ + +These _Heterodera_ are by no means peculiar to the Cucumber; they +attack the roots of Tomatoes and Melons, and the roots, stems, and +foliage of many other plants. Our illustration shows some very small +Cucumber rootlets, natural size, with the eelworms in the eggs, and +also emerging from and free of the empty eggshell (enlarged eighty +diameters). + +Immediately symptoms of the pest are apparent from the wilting of the +foliage and stems, all infected plants should be removed and burned. +The soil must also be cleared out and the interior of the house +thoroughly washed with a solution of carbolic acid in water:—one part +of the former to eight parts of the latter. To purify the infected +soil, use a solution of carbolic acid (one part) and water (twenty +parts) and saturate three times, at intervals of a fortnight. Another +remedy is to mix weathered gas-lime freely with the soil. In either +case the soil will be unfit for use for at least six weeks after +treatment. When the house has been well cleansed, fresh compost should +be used, to which the addition of lime and soot, mixed with the soil, +will be beneficial. + +[Illustration: Mealy Bug] MEALY BUG +_Dactylopius odonidum_ + +Mealy Bug.—This plague is by no means confined to plants under glass. +In the case of a lot of stove plants badly affected, the desperate +course of committing the whole to the fire, and then repairing and +painting the house, is often the cheapest in the end. We have known a +Pine-grower compelled to destroy a houseful of plants that have been +infested by the introduction of a plant from a buggy collection. Mealy +Bug may be known by its mealy, floury, or cottony appearance. It has a +great fancy for Grape vines. One of the best remedies is Gishurst +Compound, prepared at the rate of eight ounces to a gallon of water, +with clay added to give it the consistence of paint. Miscellaneous +stove plants may be cleansed by washing with a brush and soft soap. Our +illustration shows a group of Mealy Bugs natural size, with one insect +magnified. + +[Illustration: Red Spider] RED SPIDER +_Tetranychus telarius_ + +Red Spider is present in almost every vinery, however well managed. A +moist atmosphere is a great, though not a certain preventive; but it is +not possible, without injury to the vines, to keep the air of the house +always so humid that the Spider is unable to obtain a lodgment. +Syringing promotes a moist atmosphere, and is unfavourable to the Red +Spider, which thrives best in heat and dryness. But the most decided +repellent of Spider is the use of sulphur on the hot-water pipes. This +may be managed by sprinkling dry sulphur on the pipes, or by making a +thick solution of sulphur, clay, and water, with which the pipes should +be painted. Be careful not to raise the heat at the same time, for if +the pipes are hotter than the hand can bear fumes destructive to +vegetation will be given off. Melons and Cucumbers may generally be +kept clear of Spider by means of the syringe only; but when Melons are +ripening they must be kept rather dry, and it is very difficult indeed +to finish a crop without having the plants attacked by Red Spider. +Gishurst Compound answers admirably to remove Spider from house plants. +The mixture should consist of one and a half or two ounces to one +gallon of water, and should be applied with a sponge. The scientific +name of the Red Spider is _Tetranychus telarius_. Our illustration +shows one of these destructive red mites natural size, and two +individuals greatly magnified. + +Scale.—A very common species, found on many kinds of stove and other +plants, is the _Lecanium hibernaculorum_, here illustrated on a twig, +natural size, and magnified. It is brown, tumid, and commonly somewhat +more than hemispherical in shape. Besides this species there is the _L. +filicum_ of Ferns, the _L. hemisphoericum_ of Dracænas, the _L. +rotundum_ of the Peach, and the common _L. hesperidum_, or Orange-tree +Bug, which is one of the flat species, and it spreads to a great +variety of plants. The Scale insect sucks the sap from plants, and in +some instances the ground beneath the foliage is wet and soddened by +the falling sap. Spirit of turpentine applied with a soft brush is +considered to be a good remedy for Scale. It is, however, advisable (as +in other remedies) to test this on a small number of plants at first. A +near relative, a large brown _Coccus_, infests pomaceous trees, and is +especially partial to the Pyracantha, which it often kills outright. +The Scale of the Vine is _Pulvinaria_ or _Coccus vitis_. Careful +washing with soap and water, and the destruction of each separate Scale +as soon as seen, can be recommended for the extirpation of this pest. + +[Illustration: Common Scale] COMMON SCALE +_Lecanium hibernaculorum_ +(natural size and enlarged) + + +[Illustration: Thrips] THRIPS +_Thrips minutissima_ + +Thrips may pursue their mischief to a great extent before they are +discovered by the novice, for their minute size and their habit render +them inconspicuous. But the black deposit they make reveals their +existence to the experienced eye, and the debilitated condition of the +plants they have attacked would soon compel attention were there no +such deposit to tell the tale. The Indian Azaleas are apt to be beset +by Thrips, as the Grape-vine is by Scale, the Pineapple by Mealy Bug, +and the Rose by Green Aphis. Atmospheric humidity is a powerful +preventive, as is also the promotion of vigorous growth by a plentiful +supply of water to the roots of the plants; in fact, starvation and a +dry, hot air will soon bring an attack of Thrips. Generally speaking, +the best remedy is fumigation with tobacco. Or tobacco water and a +solution of soft soap, together or separately, if carefully applied, +speedily make an end of this troublesome pest. A special preparation +may be made as follows: Take six pounds of soft soap, and dissolve in +twelve gallons of water, add half a gallon of strong tobacco water, and +dip the plants in the mixture. Before they become dry, dip again in +pure rainwater to remove the mixture. If too large to dip, apply the +mixture with the syringe, and in the course of a quarter of an hour or +so syringe with pure rainwater. Our illustration shows the Thrips in +the larval and winged state, natural size and greatly magnified. + +Ants.—These extremely interesting insects are frequently troublesome in +gardens, and in the spring of the year the small red species mars the +appearance of lawns by throwing up numerous heaps of fine soil. It is +easy to destroy them by dropping a mixture of Paris Green and sugar +near their runs. But as Paris Green is a poison, animal life must be +considered. We recommend a simple remedy which entails no danger, but +it must be followed up persistently. Purchase a few common sponges, as +large as a man’s fist. Dissolve one pound of Demerara sugar in two +quarts of warm water. Immerse the sponges, wring out nearly all the +liquid, and place them near the ant runs. Twice daily throw the sponges +into hot water, and repeat the process until the ants are cleared. +Nests located under walls can be destroyed by boiling water. + +Caterpillars cannot often be treated in a wholesale way without injury +to the plant. Hence it is usual to rely on hand-picking, and, tedious +as this may be, a little perseverance will accomplish wonders. We have +seen a fruit garden, literally hideous with clusters of Caterpillars in +spring, completely cleared by a few days’ steady work, costing but a +trifle, and only needing to be conducted so that in removing the vermin +there should be no harm done to the crops. In the same way the +Gooseberry grub should be disposed of. Precautions cannot be taken +against Caterpillars, but the careful cultivator will in good time look +for patches of eggs and clusters of young Caterpillars on the under +sides of leaves, and will carefully nip off the leaves on which the +colonies are feeding, and make an end of them. This enemy cannot be +raked in rank and file, but must be taken in detail, as in guerilla +warfare. + +Earwigs are the dread of the florist, for they spoil his best Dahlias +and Hollyhocks, and are too partial to Chrysanthemums. They are readily +trapped, as they like to go up to a high, dry, dark retreat; hence a +bit of dry moss in a small flower-pot, inverted on a stake, will entice +them into your hands; and if you are determined to keep down Earwigs, +this way is sure, though, perhaps, not easy, because it must be +followed up morning and evening from the beginning of June onwards. The +hollow stems of the Bean make good traps, as indeed do hollow stems of +any kind, for Earwigs love to creep into close, dark shelters after +their nocturnal meal; and the cultivator who has resolved that he will +not be eaten up by them needs only to persevere, and he may depend on +trapping every Earwig within the boundaries. Unfortunately, they use +their wings freely, and so travel from the sluggard’s garden to find +‘fresh woods and pastures new.’ + +[Illustration: Earwig] EARWIG +(with wings spread, magnified) + +Slugs are serious plagues to the gardener, and they sometimes appear in +large numbers so suddenly as to suggest the idea that the little Slugs +have come down in showers. Young crops are especially liable to injury +from these vermin, and it is not easy, even in well-kept gardens, to +keep them down. Constant attention is necessary, particularly in wet +seasons. But here, as in the case of many other kinds of vermin, means +may be adopted that will accomplish the double purpose of destroying +the plague and benefiting the land; for lime, salt, soot, and nitrate +of soda are certain Slug-killers, and will usually pay for their +employment by their enrichment of the ground. The nice point always is +to employ them advantageously. It should further be borne in mind that +a Slug slightly touched by lime or salt has the power of throwing it +off by means of the slimy exudation with which the creature is endowed. +But if again quickly assailed in a similar manner death is certain to +follow. Land made ready for sowing may be pretty well cleared of Slugs +by broadcasting it with salt. Unfortunately, these destroyers are only +effective in fine weather. In rainy seasons, or when a crop is rising, +it is necessary to resort to trapping, and many kinds of vegetable +refuse make tempting baits for Slugs. Pieces of Orange peel, suitably +placed, are soon covered with the vermin, especially in the winter +during intervals of frost. Cabbage leaves, sliced Turnips and Potatoes, +or almost any waste vegetable may be used. The traps should be +scattered about at dusk, and be gathered up in the morning, and buried +in pits, or destroyed by fire. + +Gas-lime is highly destructive to Slugs, but when first applied it is +poisonous to plant life. An excellent method of using it is to dress +the surface in autumn at the rate of from four to six cwt. per acre, +and to dig the ground deeply four weeks later. + +Rows of Peas are easily protected by a covering of barley sweepings, or +by charcoal broken very small and flavoured with paraffin. Slaked lime, +carefully used, is also employed with satisfactory results. + +Snails.—In their methods of attacking garden vegetation, and in the +extent of damage they cause, Snails may be placed in the same category +as Slugs. During the day the Snail usually remains in hiding, emerging +from rockeries and creeper-covered walls in the evening or after a +shower of rain. They may be trapped by one of the methods suggested for +Slugs, and preference should be given to the use of Cabbage leaves. It +will, however, be safer to protect young plants by giving heavy +dressings of lime or soot. Hand picking is the surest means of dealing +with them, and in the winter months large numbers may be collected from +among box edgings, the base of ivy-covered walls and similar shelters. +Birds, especially thrushes, show a marked partiality for Snails. + +Wasps are a terrible scourge in some gardens. They spoil a large +quantity of fruit, and jeopardise the remainder by forcing the harvest +before the crops are ready for gathering. When the localities of the +Wasps’ nests are known, it is a simple task to dispose of them. +Turpentine and gunpowder were formerly in vogue, especially among the +younger members of the community, to whom a spice of danger is always +an attractive element in the fun. But these are clumsy methods of +destruction and will not compare with the far easier remedy of +poisoning the colonies by means of cyanide of potassium. Dissolve one +ounce of the drug in a quarter of a pint of water. This will be +sufficient to destroy several nests, but it is a deadly poison, and +must be kept in a place of safety. Soak a piece of rag in the fluid, +and lay it over the entrance to the nest. There is no occasion to run +away; not a Wasp will venture out, and those which return from foraging +will not lose their tempers and find yours, but at each successive +attempt to enter their home they will become feebler, until they fall +near or beneath the drugged rag. After an hour or two the nest may be +dug out, when every insect, including queen and pupæ, will be found +dead. + +If the colonies lie beyond your frontier, or their positions cannot be +ascertained, the enemy must be disposed of by stratagem and in detail. +One of the best modes of trapping them is to put some injured fruit +beneath one of the trees, and over it a hand-light raised about three +inches above the ground by stones or pieces of wood placed at the four +corners. This light must have a rather large hole at the top. Upon it +should rest another light from which egress is prevented, except +through the apex of the lower light. After the Wasps have visited the +fruit, they will rise into the first light, and gradually find their +way through the opening into the one above, from which not one insect +in a hundred will escape. In a trap of this kind we have seen an +enormous number of Wasps and Hornets which had been lured to death +within a few hours. + +Another simple and effective method of destroying these pests is to +pour a small quantity of ale mixed with sugar into glass jars and +suspend them from branches of Pear or Plum trees. The vessels must be +emptied every few days and the liquid renewed. + +[Illustration: Wireworm] WIREWORM +(natural size and magnified) + +Wireworm is the most persistent and destructive of all the ground +vermin. There are fully a dozen species of beetles the larvæ of which +are known as ‘Wireworms,’ and of these the ‘Spring-Jacks,’ +‘Click-Beetles,’ and ‘Blacksmiths’—_Elater obscurus, E. lineatus_, and +_E. ruficaudis_—are the most prevalent. The female beetle deposits her +eggs in the earth in the height of the summer, and in due time the +worms emerge and commence their depredations. These worms have a tenure +of three to five years in their subterranean homes, during which time +they feed voraciously, and are not very particular as to what they eat. +Their muscular power renders them expert in burrowing, and they are +well protected by their horny jackets. When their term of feeding is +completed, they descend to a considerable depth and change into the +chrysalis state, from which they come forth as jumping beetles in the +course of July and August, a certain proportion remaining in the ground +to complete their final change in spring. Their power of destruction is +then at an end. They resort to flowers, lead a merry life for a short +time, and when they pass away leave plenty of eggs to continue the race +of Wireworms. + +For practical purposes the Wireworm may be regarded as inhabiting every +kind of soil and consuming every kind of crop. The crops it is most +partial to are Grass, Potatoes, Turnips, and the juicy stems of all +kinds of cereals. The larvæ may be trapped by burying in the ground +pieces of Potato, or better still thick slices of Beet root; the spots +to be marked, and the traps examined every few days, when the Wireworms +can be destroyed. Superphosphate sown along the drills with seed has +saved spring-sown crops from destruction; and Vaporite, a proprietary +article, has also been used with marked success. The latter gives off a +gas smelling of naphthalene which kills the Wireworms. Soot is a +well-known remedy, and by its use the crops are also benefited. + +Woodlice are very destructive but easily caught, and they may be +completely eradicated by perseverance. When a frame or pit is infested, +they can be destroyed wholesale by pouring boiling water down next the +brickwork or the woodwork in the middle of the day. If this procedure +does not make a clearance, recourse must be had to trapping. In common +with Earwigs, they love dryness, darkness, and a snug retreat; but +while a mere home suffices for Earwigs, a home with food is demanded by +Woodlice. Take a thumb pot, quite dry and clean. In it place a +fresh-cut slice of Potato or Apple, fill up with dry moss, and turn the +whole thing over on a bed in a frame or pit. Thus you have devised a +Woodlouse trap, and next morning you may knock the vermin out of it +into a vessel full of hot water, or adopt any other mode of killing +that may be convenient. Fifty traps may be prepared in a hundred +minutes; and those who are determined to get rid of Woodlice may soon +make an end of them. + +Rats and Mice.—Traps are efficient while they are new, and almost any +reasonably good contrivance will answer for a time, but will fail at +last, or at least for a season. To keep down Rats and Mice effectually +there must be invented a succession of new modes of action, for these +creatures—Rats especially—are so clever that they soon see through our +devices, which then fail of effect. Generally speaking, two rules may +be prescribed. In the first place it is imprudent to fill up their +holes or stop their runs; let them have their way. If you stop them, +they will make new thoroughfares, to the further injury of the +foundation; and, besides, when you are acquainted with their runs, you +know where to put traps and poison for the vermin. As to the best +poison, there is nothing so effectual as arsenic; but it should be +employed with great care, and before it is brought on the premises the +question of safe storage must be considered. A fat bloater split down +and well rubbed with common white arsenic will kill a score of Rats, +provided only that they will eat it. Cut it into four parts, and place +these in or near their runs, and cover with tiles or boards to prevent +dogs and cats obtaining them. If this fails, try bread and butter +dressed with oil of rhodium and phosphorus. The oil of rhodium seems to +possess an irresistible attraction for these vermin. When dry food is +preferred, there is nothing so good as oatmeal; and it is a golden rule +to feed the Rats for a few days with pure oatmeal, and then to mix +about a fourth part of arsenic with it. Several proprietary articles +are offered for the destruction of Rats. Before resorting to these +means of annihilating vermin it is necessary to take steps to prevent +the bodies from proving a nuisance after death. A good fox-terrier will +keep a large garden free from Rats and Mice. + + + + +THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN GARDEN PLANTS + + +Many of our garden plants are liable to the attacks of fungi. Cures are +in most instances unknown, but in some cases preventives—which are +better—have been adopted with partial or entire success. Plants raised +from robust stocks, grown in suitable soil and under favourable +conditions, are known to be less liable to disease than seedlings from +feeble parents, or those which have been rendered weakly by +deficiencies in the soil or faulty cultivation. Whether weakness is +hereditary, or is attributable to a bad system, the fact remains that +disease generally begins with unhealthy specimens, and these form +centres of contamination from which the mischief spreads. It is, +therefore, important that seed from healthy stocks should be sown, and +that a vigorous constitution should be developed by good cultivation. + +Anbury, Club, or Finger-and-toe.—The disease known by these various +names is common in the roots of cultivated cruciferous plants such as +Cabbages, Kohl Rabi, Radishes, Swedes, Turnips, &c., and also in many +cruciferous weeds, including Charlock and Shepherd’s Purse. The cause +of this disease is an extremely minute fungus, which may lie dormant in +the soil for several years for want of a comfortable home, and when a +cruciferous plant becomes available the fungus fastens on the fine +roots, multiplies rapidly in the tissues, and produces malformation and +decay. After the disease has made some progress insect agency +frequently augments the mischief, so that on cutting open a large +decaying root it is not unusual to find the interior packed with +millipedes, weevils, wireworms, and other ground vermin. + +Unlike the Potato disease, which spreads from plant to plant through +the atmosphere, the fungus of Finger-and-toe infects the ground, and +from the first spot attacked the disease spreads rapidly in all +directions and in various ways. It may be carried by the soil adhering +to implements or the boots of labourers. And each patch becomes a new +centre of infection which is spread by digging or raking. Every scrap +of infected soil, or of diseased fibre which may be added to the +manure-heap, distributes the virus over a wider area, so that +Finger-and-toe may suddenly appear in parts of the garden which have +hitherto been free from this troublesome pest. A very simple experiment +will prove the certainty and ease with which the spores may be +introduced to fresh land. Macerate the tissue of old Finger-and-toe in +water; use this on young isolated plants of Cabbage or Turnip and in a +short time the plants will be infected. + +The fungus which produces Finger-and-toe is known as _Plasmodiophora +brassicæ_, and it belongs to the _Myxomycetes_, or ‘slime-fungi,’ +which, as a rule, live upon decaying vegetable material. The protoplasm +of the fungus ramifies among and within the tissues of the roots of +attacked plants, and eventually produces an amazing number of spores so +small that more than thirty millions would be required to cover a +superficial inch. A microscope of great power is necessary to reveal +them to human vision. + +[Illustration: Fungus of Finger-and-Toe Disease] FUNGUS OF +FINGER-AND-TOE DISEASE +_Plasmodiophora brassicæ_ + +The spores are capable of resting in a state of vitality for a long +time, and can easily withstand the frosts of winter. The illustration +shows at A the fungus in its protoplasmic condition, and at B its +ultimate sporiferous or ‘seed’-producing stage, after the protoplasm +has changed to a mass of minute spores (enlarged five hundred and +twenty diameters). When a spore in due course germinates, its +protoplasmic contents escape through a small aperture in its wall and +begin moving about of their own accord in a slow writhing manner. The +movement is so much like that of the microscopic animal organism found +in ponds, and called _Amœba_, that this tiny mass of moving protoplasm +is called _Myxamœba_, to denote that it is an amœba-like form produced +by one of the _Myxomycetes_. Each myxamœba is drawn out at one spot +into a fine delicate tail or cilium, as at C, D, E, and is capable of a +creeping motion in moisture. When quite free from the spores, +transparent expansions or limbs extend from the bodies of the myxamœbæ, +as at F, G, and when these organisms, after existing in the soil for a +longer or shorter time, reach the roots of cruciferous plants, which +they apparently enter through the root-hairs, they again assume the +protoplasmic condition shown at A, and live within the cells, at the +expense of the nurse-plant. Other cruciferous plants are less seriously +damaged by the pest than are Turnips and Cabbages; but it is evident +that if diseased Charlock is near Turnips, the latter are very likely +to fall a prey to the disease. We advise the sowing of the best seeds, +the eradication of cruciferous weeds, and the destruction by fire of +all decaying Finger-and-toe material, for it is in this material that +the spores of the disease rest ready for continuing the disease in the +following season. It is also desirable that cruciferous plants should +not be continuously grown in the same quarter—in other words, it would +be prudent after an attack of Anbury not to repeat a cruciferous crop +on the same ground, but to follow on with a crop of some other class. + +Numerous experiments have shown that slaked lime can be relied on to +destroy the spores of Finger-and-toe in infested land. An application +of from fourteen to twenty-eight pounds per pole may suffice in the +case of light soils, but fifty-six pounds per pole will not be too much +on heavy land, and the dressing should be given either six or eighteen +months before a Cabbage or Turnip crop is sown; the longer period is +the more certain in its effect. Preference should be given to stone or +rock lime over chalk lime. The former is much more powerful and +efficient. It may be necessary to repeat the dressing twelve months +after the first application. As regards the occurrence of Anbury in +seed-beds, frequent transplantation is a very effectual mode of +stopping its progress, for the little galls can be pinched off by the +workman, and burned as he proceeds; and the plant, being invigorated by +change of soil, will soon grow away from the affection. In +transplanting Cabbages it is a good plan to discard and burn such +plants as are obviously affected with Anbury. It is worthy of remark +that in market-gardens this disease is by no means so prevalent as to +interfere with the routine of cultivation, although the Cabbages, +Broccoli, and Cauliflowers grown in these grounds are, under other +circumstances, especially liable to attack. By ‘other circumstances’ we +mean that market-gardens are generally kept under high cultivation, the +land being perpetually turned and heavily manured; and these measures +appear to be a preventive of Anbury, while they result in heavy crops. +But on land less energetically tilled Anbury may prevail to such an +extent as to interfere seriously with the order of cropping. Another +very important mode of keeping down the pest consists in burning +instead of burying the stumps and all other refuse of the crop that +cannot be turned to account. + +Confusion may be prevented if we point out that Club-root, Anbury, or +Finger-and-toe—whichever name may be used—is quite distinct from an +apparently similar malformation of the root which is sometimes induced +by certain characteristics of soil, seed, or manure, and is in fact a +case of reversion to the original wild type. Instead of a shapely, +solid Turnip, the bulb is divided into a number of coarse, worthless +tap-roots, caused by either poverty of the soil, careless cultivation, +or a degenerated stock of seed. Those who save their own seed +continuously for years are almost certain to become well acquainted +with this malady. They will find a change of seed necessary, and at the +same time an alteration in the routine of culture. A healthy, vigorous +plant, derived from a pure seed-stock, does not easily make +Finger-and-toe, but a sound root that stands for food and money. + +‘Grub.’—The wart-like growths formed upon the roots of Turnip and +Cabbage by the little hard beetle known as the Turnip-gall Weevil, +_Ceutorhynchus pleurostigma_, are also quite distinct from +Finger-and-toe. By cutting across a malformed root of Turnip or Cabbage +it is usually not difficult to determine the cause of the mischief. If +it is Finger-and-toe the root will be found filled with decaying +matter; in the case of Weevil attack the small legless maggots, +commonly called ‘Grub,’ will be brought into view; and if it is merely +an instance of reversion the cut root will appear to be healthy. + +Potato Disease.—The fungus which causes the Potato Disease, or ‘Blight’ +as it is sometimes called, was formerly known as _Peronospora +infestans_; now it is recognised by scientific authorities as +_Phytophthora infestans_. The mark of its pestilent touch on the +foliage, and its destructive effect on the tubers, are unfortunately +too familiar in gardens and on farms. In dry seasons its energies are +restricted, but the scourge is never absent, and during wet summers the +parasite may do its deadly work on such a vast scale as to cause a +Potato famine. Moisture is a necessity of its existence, and in rotting +haulm, decayed tubers, and damp soil the spores remain in a resting +condition until they are afforded an opportunity of multiplying with +the marvellous rapidity that invests the disease with its terrible +power. A series of six illustrations, five of which are highly +magnified, will enable the reader to follow the development of +_Phytophthora infestans_.[1] + +[Illustration: No. 1.] No. 1. + +The illustration No. 1 shows a Potato leaf on a reduced scale +disfigured by the attack of the fungus. The _Phytophthora_ is sending +mycelial threads (called hyphæ) in all directions through the substance +of the leaf, feeding on the protoplasm of the cells and destroying the +chlorophyll, or leaf-green, in those cells. + +[Illustration: No. 2. and 3.] No. 2. & No. 3. + +No. 2 shows the fungal threads at work. In a diseased Potato plant +these threads, or mycelial hyphæ, make their way through the substance +of the leaves, and down the haulm into the tubers, from which they +consume the food stored there. + +No. 3 exhibits the various stages of germination of one of the conidia +of _Phytophthora infestans_: (_a_) the ripe conidium in water; (_b_) +protoplasmic contents breaking up into blocks, which separate and +escape (_c_ and _d_) as minute kidney-shaped zoospores (_e_) each with +two cilia; (_f_ and _g_) the zoospore coming to rest and losing its +cilia; (_h_, _i_, _j_, and _k_) successive stages of germination of the +zoospore. + +[Illustration: No. 4.] No. 4. + +No. 4 represents a longitudinal section of Potato-stalk with +germinating zoospore, the germ-tube of which has pierced the cell-wall, +and is growing inside the cell, as shown at +. + +[Illustration: No. 5. and 6.] No. 5. & No. 6 + +No. 5 affords a view of another piece of tissue of the stem of a Potato +plant, and shows the hyphæ of _Phytophthora infestans_ running in the +cell-walls; (_a_) nucleus of a cell; the other contents shown are +crystals and chlorophyll corpuscles. + +No. 6 is a section of a Potato tuber: A, the cell-walls; B, the starch +grains; C, the mycelial hyphæ. + +Spraying Potato plants twice or thrice with Bordeaux mixture has proved +effective in warding off the attack of _Phytophthora infestans_, and +the practice is now freely adopted, especially in humid districts. The +first application should be given towards the end of June or early in +July, immediately the haulm is sufficiently developed. The Bordeaux +mixture is made in the proportion of four pounds of pure copper +sulphate and two pounds of quicklime to forty gallons of water. The +foregoing quantities will give what is known as the _one per cent._ +mixture. For the _two per cent._ mixture the quantities of copper +sulphate and quicklime must be doubled, but the amount of water should +remain at forty gallons. In its effect on the fungus, however, little +difference is to be found between the two solutions. The copper +sulphate is stirred into a few gallons of hot water placed in a wooden +tub or earthenware vessel. When quite dissolved, add twenty or thirty +gallons of cold water. The lime, which must be freshly burnt quicklime, +is then slaked in another vessel and thoroughly stirred with two or +three gallons of water until it is of the consistency of thin cream. As +soon as the liquid is quite cold, filter it through coarse sacking into +the copper sulphate solution and add water to make a total of forty +gallons. To be effective, Bordeaux mixture must be applied in the form +of a fine spray, and not with a coarse-holed syringe. + +The Burgundy mixture, the use of which is preferred by some, acts in a +very similar manner to the Bordeaux mixture, and is made in the same +way as the latter, except that washing soda (five pounds) is +substituted for quicklime. + +Those who leave Potatoes to rot in the ground because the crop is not +worth digging, or who bury diseased haulm and tubers in a shallow +trench, under the impression that it is a safe way of getting rid of +worthless vegetation, are simply storing _Phytophthora_ for another +attack in the event of Potatoes being planted in the same land again. +If buried at all, it must be at a considerable depth, but the effectual +method is to destroy all Potato refuse by fire. + +Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes (_Synchytrium endobioticum_, +Percival).—This extremely infectious and destructive disease of the +Potato has been given a variety of names in different parts of the +country, but it is now generally known as the Wart or Cauliflower +Disease, the latter term being attributable to the Cauliflower-like +appearance of the outgrowth of the fungus. This outgrowth first shows +in the eyes of the young Potato in the form of small wrinkled warts. +These multiply and combine, thus creating a dark spongy scab which +eventually decomposes. Where the disease is very rife it attacks haulm +as well as tubers, and a yellowish-green mass may sometimes be found +just above or just below the surface of the soil. As a rule, however, +no outward indication of its existence is to be seen in the crop during +the early stages of growth, but towards the end of the season the haulm +of badly diseased plants often retains a fresh green appearance when +the foliage of others, which are healthy or only slightly attacked, is +dying off. + +Infection is perhaps most commonly spread by the planting of diseased +tubers. Another frequent means of dissemination is caused by consigning +infected haulm to the waste heap instead of to the fire. The spores may +also be introduced in manure from animals fed on diseased Potatoes in a +raw state, and they may even be carried from one plot to another on +garden implements or the boots of those who walk across infected +ground. Immediately any sign of the disease is observed it should be +dealt with promptly and in no uncertain manner. Every particle of the +infected material must be carefully collected and burned. Dig out the +soil around all diseased plants and burn this also. On infected land it +is important that some crop other than Potatoes be taken in the season +following the outbreak, and, if possible, such land should not be used +for Potatoes for at least five or six years. But where garden space is +limited, a contaminated plot may have to be requisitioned for Potatoes +within two or three years. In such cases it is an excellent plan to +dust the sets freely with sulphur at the time of planting and to repeat +the application before earthing up. + +Although for some years the unremitting labour of experts has been +devoted to the investigation of Wart Disease, and innumerable +experiments have been undertaken, no effectual remedy has yet been +discovered. It has been found, however, that certain Potatoes are +resistant to the disease, and by order of the Ministry of Agriculture +and Fisheries none but ‘immune’ varieties may be planted in districts +scheduled as infected areas. A notification of the existence of Wart +Disease must be made to the Ministry immediately it is observed. + +Leaf Spot of Celery.—This disease, which is caused by a minute fungus +(_Septoria apii_, Chester), is capable of inflicting serious damage to +the Celery crop unless prompt measures are taken to exterminate it. The +first sign of its appearance is to be found in the leaves in the form +of small brown patches. These are, however, quite distinct from the +spots deficient of leaf-green due to the attack of the Celery Fly +larvæ, and on close examination may be recognised by the presence of a +number of very small black points. From the leaves the fungus quickly +spreads over the leaf-stalks and finally to the heart of the plant, +ending in its total collapse. So rapid is the multiplication of the +spores, especially in moist weather, that a few diseased plants are +capable of infecting a large plot within two or three weeks. +Immediately discoloration of a leaf is noticed the affected portion of +the plant should be picked off. If the stage of the disease is so far +advanced that the outer leaf-stalks have become decayed, the entire +plant should be removed and destroyed. It is of the utmost importance +that every particle of diseased material be consigned to the fire and +not to the waste heap. Spraying three or four times with Bordeaux +mixture at intervals of two or three weeks may be helpful in the case +of a light attack, but the safest course always is to remove and +destroy any plant on which the fungus is found. One of the most +frequent means of introducing Leaf Spot of Celery is through the use of +infected seed, and therefore only seed which has been treated for the +destruction of the fungus should be sown. + +Lettuce Mildew.—This fungus is named _Bremia lactucæ_, formerly known +as _Peronospora ganglioniformis_, and is sometimes of the most +destructive character. It covers Lettuce leaves with a fine white +bloom, which decomposes the leaves, and makes them adhere together in +one putrescent mass. It should be looked for in its earliest stages, +and be hand-picked and burned. Old Lettuce stumps should likewise be +pulled and burned, otherwise they may harbour the disease. + +Onion Mildew is caused by the fungus _Peronospora Schleideni_, which is +occasionally disastrous in its effects, more especially in cold, wet +seasons. It occurs at uncertain intervals of time with extraordinary +virulence, and then utterly destroys the crops. Autumn sowing is +considered a good preventive by many growers, as the disease is +frequently fatal to spring seedlings. In its early stages the mildew +may be successfully dealt with by freely dusting the plants with +flowers of sulphur when wet with dew, or by the application of sulphide +of potassium in the proportion of one ounce to a gallon of water. +Otherwise all diseased material should be removed and burned. + +Pea Disease.—Although garden Peas often suffer badly from the attacks +of _Peronospora viciæ_, which is the cause of Pea Mould, yet the most +deadly foe to Peas, especially late Peas, is a fungus of a totally +different character. To such an extent does the Pea Blight sometimes +devastate the later Peas, particularly in dry summers, that the whole +crop is in some gardens completely annihilated. The name of the fungus +of the Pea Blight or Mildew is _Erysiphe Martii_. Its attack is often +made suddenly; the leaves then lose their natural green colour, and +become yellowish and densely coated with a fine white bloom; this bloom +becomes at length dusted over with innumerable minute black bodies, +which look, under a lens, like tiny spiders’-eggs in the web. These +little black bodies are filled with extremely small transparent +vessels, and each vessel contains from four to eight spores or seeds. +Our illustration shows this _Erysiphe_ enlarged one hundred diameters, +with two of the vessels containing the spores removed from the globular +spots and further enlarged. The only safe way of dealing with infested +Pea plants is to burn them. Many other species of fungi belonging to +the same genus attack fruit trees, vegetables, and garden flowers. It +is, however, unnecessary to illustrate them, as they more or less +resemble the fungus of Pea Blight. They all arise from an _Oïdium_ +condition, similar to the _Oïdium_ or Mildew of the Vine, and it is in +this condition alone, as in the case of the Vine, that they can be +reached by any fungicide. + +[Illustration: Fungus of Pea] FUNGUS OF PEA MILDEW +_Erysiphe Martii_ + +Tomato Diseases.—The Tomato, like its near relative, the Potato, is +subject to a number of destructive diseases which spread rapidly if +allowed to become established. The most serious of these epidemics are +found among crops cultivated under glass, where the forcing treatment +which they often receive, and the soil and atmospheric conditions, +render the plants abnormally susceptible to the attacks of fungi and +insect pests. Perhaps the most virulent forms of disease with which the +Tomato-grower is troubled arise from the attacks of parasitic fungi and +bacteria, among which the following are most frequently met with:— + +SLEEPY DISEASE, or TOMATO WILT.—In its outward symptoms and effects +this disease somewhat resembles an attack of Root-knot Eelworm, but the +swellings are absent from the root. The plants for a time appear quite +vigorous and healthy, but when full-grown they suddenly wilt and die +within a few days. The malady is caused by the fungus _Fusarium +lycopersici_, which first invades the roots and ultimately eats its way +through the substance of the collar or stem near the surface of the +soil, in consequence of which the supply of water taken up by the roots +is cut off from the leaves above ground and the plant collapses. There +is no remedy for the Sleepy Disease of Tomato, and plants which bear +evidence of infection should be carefully dug up and burned. + +TOMATO ‘STRIPE.’—This disease of the Tomato is comparatively common, +and although the attacks are sometimes slight its ravages may be +disastrous when conditions are favourable for its development. The +presence of Tomato Stripe is usually first noticed about the time fruit +is forming. The stems of the diseased plants then exhibit dark spots +and elongated sunken stripes of a brown tint, and yellow patches, which +turn brown later, appear on the leaves. Brown pits or depressions +develop on the fruits and spoil their appearance. The disease has been +traced to the action of a bacterium which closely resembles, or is +identical with, that causing Stripe among Sweet Peas. This organism +probably resides in the soil, and the signs of its attack are often +visible in young plants. In severe cases the soil of the house should +be removed and replaced with fresh loam. But when only slight traces of +the disease are apparent, partial sterilisation of the soil by means of +carbolic acid, as recommended for Root-knot Eelworm on page 425, may be +adopted. One of the surest means of guarding against losses by Stripe +disease, is to promote robust healthy growth, and to avoid extreme +forcing conditions, particularly by the excessive use of nitrogenous +manures. Where, however, forcing manures may have been employed in too +large a quantity, an application of potash (in the form of kainit or +sulphate of potash) and phosphatic fertilisers should be given to +counteract the effect of the nitrogen. Immediately any trace of the +disease is found, remove the affected part of the plant, if it is +possible to do so without serious injury, but otherwise the entire +plant should be uprooted and destroyed by fire. It should be remembered +that the organism can be carried on the fingers and on tools, and +therefore knives with which affected plants have been trimmed should be +sterilised with lysol or some other antiseptic solution before being +used on healthy plants. + +TOMATO-LEAF RUST.—The leaves of the plant attacked by this disease +rapidly become covered with a dull brownish velvety mould, or fungus, +known as _Cladosporium fulvum_. From the mouldy spots and patches +thousands of spores are readily carried by a slight current of air to +the surrounding healthy crop, and unless prompt measures are taken to +check the pest the whole house is rapidly involved. Excessive +atmospheric moisture encourages the mould, and it is spread extensively +if diseased plants are sprayed with water in the presence of healthy +ones. Judicious management in air-giving, which is one of the +fundamental principles of successful Tomato culture, will do much to +prevent the attack of _Cladosporium fulvum_. Under regular examination +the presence of the disease will be revealed before considerable damage +can be inflicted, and when only a few leaves are affected, carefully +remove and consign them to the fire. Spraying with the Bordeaux mixture +at half the usual strength is recommended when the disease is first +noticed. When the plants are bearing flowers or fruit, fungicides +containing copper must not be used, but a solution of liver of sulphur, +one ounce dissolved in six gallons of water, employed instead. + +ROOT-KNOT EELWORM.—A dangerous insect pest which frequently attacks the +Tomato, in common with the Cucumber and Melon, is the Root-knot Eelworm +(_Heterodera radicicola_). The root on which the swollen pea-like knots +develop do not carry on their ordinary functions, and the leaves droop, +the stem becomes limp, and the whole plant soon collapses and dies if +the trouble is severe. The treatment suggested on page 425 should be +adopted. + +Sometimes the outdoor Tomato crop is attacked by _Phytophthora +infestans_, the fungus responsible for the Potato Disease: Bordeaux +mixture should be used to check it. + +Directions for preparing the Bordeaux mixture are given on page 440. + +Another useful preparation which checks many fungus diseases may be +made by dissolving one ounce of potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur) +in three or four gallons of water, to which should be added an ounce or +two of soft soap. The last named greatly assists in the complete and +uniform wetting of all parts of the foliage. + + + + +THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN FLOWERS + + +Cineraria and Senecio Disease.—_Senecio pulcher_, soon after its +introduction into England, was attacked, and in some gardens completely +destroyed, by a fungus named _Puccinia glomerata_, or rather the +_Uredo_ stage of this fungus with simple, not compound, spores. The +fungus is well known, being closely allied to that which causes the +rust or mildew of corn crops. It is very common on the wild species of +Groundsel in England, being especially frequent and virulent on the +Ragwort Groundsel, _Senecio Jacobea_, from August to October. The +leaves of infected plants are covered with rust-coloured dusty +pustules, the _Uredo_ condition of the fungus, and known in this stage +as _Uredo senecionis_, sometimes termed _Trichobasis senecionis_. The +fungus has a _Puccinia_ stage of growth very similar to that of the +Hollyhock fungus, _Puccinia malvacearum_. + +[Illustration: Fungus of Senecio Disease] FUNGUS OF SENECIO DISEASE +_Uredo senecionis_ + +At A is illustrated a fragment of a leaf of _Senecio pulcher_, natural +size, and covered with the orange-coloured fungus; at B a small part of +a _Uredo_ pustule as seen bursting through the cuticle of the Senecio +leaf. + +No remedial measures for the extirpation of this fungus are known, but +as garden Senecios and Cinerarias are infected by diseased plants of +Wild Groundsel, it is desirable that plants of the latter (especially +when diseased) should be destroyed. Weeds in and about gardens are a +common cause of disease in cultivated plants. It often happens that a +weed, being sturdy, is only slightly inconvenienced when attacked, +whilst a cultivated plant will speedily succumb if attacked by the same +fungus. This is the case in the _Sempervivum_ disease. In this country +the common House Leek is the nurse-plant, and is seldom much injured; +but if the disease _Endophyllum sempervivi_ gets among greenhouse +species, every plant may be utterly destroyed. + +[Illustration: Fungi of Gladioli, Lilies, etc.] FUNGI OF GLADIOLI, +LILIES, ETC. +_Urocystis gladioli_ and _Ovularia elliptica_ + +Gladiolus, Crocus, Narcissus, and Lily Diseases.—In certain soils and +situations where the ground is heavy and the atmosphere inclined to be +humid the Gladiolus is very subject to a destructive fungoid disease. +This is especially the case during unusually wet summers. The disease +attacks the corm, and corrodes and decomposes the tissues, so that on +cutting open a corm the whole interior, or such parts as are diseased, +will be found permeated with a deep, foxy colour. It is believed by +some persons that one stage of this disease is identical with the +disease named ‘Tacon’ by the French, and in this country known as +‘Copper Web,’ _Rhizoctonia crocorum_. This _Rhizoctonia_ is a mere +spawn or mycelium, a mass of rusty-brown material like a thick coating +of spider’s web of a red tint. This parasite attacks the Crocus +(especially _C. sativus_), the Narcissus, Asparagus, Potato, and other +plants. Immersed in the softer and damper portions of the red substance +of the corm may frequently be found great numbers of large compound +spores, as illustrated at A (enlarged two hundred and fifty diameters). +These bodies belong to the fungus named _Urocystis gladioli_; but +whether they really belong to the spawn named _Rhizoctonia_ there is no +conclusive evidence, as the spores have never been seen on the threads +or upon any spawn. The spores are very ornamental objects, consisting +of from three to six compacted inner brown bodies, surrounded by an +indefinite number of transparent cells. At maturity these spores break +up as at B, and are the means of reproducing the fungus. + +The Colchicum is attacked by a closely allied but different species of +_Urocystis_—viz. _U. colchici_. The Ranunculaceæ are attacked by +another ally in _U. pompholygodes_ and Rye is attacked by a third in +_U. occulta_. No method of cure has yet been published for this pest; +it is, however, desirable that only sound and good corms should be +planted, for if infected corms are placed in the ground it is one +certain means of propagating the disease. The bars shown across the +illustration of this disease are magnificent crystals, very common in +Gladiolus corms. + +Lilies are very subject to a disease in early summer: the leaves get +spotted and damp, and rot off; the flower buds speedily follow, and +leave the bare stalk. The disease of Lilies is caused by a fungus +closely allied to the fungus of the Potato disease, and named _Ovularia +elliptica_, known also as _Botrytis elliptica_ (see illustration C). +The spores are large, and produce zoospores, or spores with hair-like +tails (cilia), capable of swimming about in water or upon moist places. +This pest attacks a large number of species of _Lilium_, both before +and after flowering. _Hyacinthus candicans_ and some Tulips suffer from +a very similar, if not the same, organism. This fungus has been +described as a true _Peronospora_. Bulbs are subject to many fungus +growths as _Volutella hyacinthorum_, _Didymium Sowerbei_, &c.; many +fungi follow the decay of the bulb, others undoubtedly produce or +greatly accelerate decay. No remedy is known, but we advise the +purchase of the soundest and best bulbs. Good drainage and sufficient +air are indispensable. All infected foliage and stems should be burned. + +Disease of Hollyhocks and Malvaceous Plants.—In some parts of England +the cultivation of the Hollyhock had at one time quite ceased owing to +the attacks of a microscopic fungus named _Puccinia malvacearum_. In +gardens and nurseries, where years ago Hollyhocks were one of the chief +ornaments of the place, it became impossible to grow a single plant. +The disease is not confined to the Hollyhock, for it attacks many +malvaceous plants, notably the Mallows of our hedgesides. We have seen +plants of the white variety of the Musk Mallow (_Malva moschata_) +totally destroyed by this parasite. The home of the Hollyhock fungus is +Chili, whence the Potato fungus reached us. The Hollyhock fungus first +attacked the malvaceous plants of Australia, and then reached England +in 1873 by the continent of Europe. The best and cleanest seeds of the +Hollyhock should be purchased. + +[Illustration: Fungus of Hollyhock] FUNGUS OF HOLLYHOCK DISEASE +_Puccinia malvacearum_ + +A fragment of a Hollyhock leaf is illustrated at A, dotted with the +characteristic brown pustules; these pustules cover the stems as well +as the leaves. At B is shown the edge of a pustule enlarged one hundred +diameters and seen in section; to show the whole of a pustule in +section from six inches to a foot of space would be required. Bursting +through the skin of the plant may be seen a dense forest of threads, +each thread bearing a spore with a joint across the middle. One pustule +alone will produce thousands of these double spores. At C some of the +threads and spores are still further enlarged to two hundred diameters, +and at D one ripe spore is shown falling from the thread and breaking +asunder—each piece is a reproductive body or spore. When mature, these +minute spores or ‘seeds’ are carried in the air by millions. At E one +of the compound spores is enlarged to four hundred diameters. As this +disease is seated within the tissues of the plant, remedies are +difficult of application, and in many cases attempts at cure have +failed. No doubt the fungus is nursed by malvaceous weeds. Infected +Hollyhock plants and allied weeds should be destroyed by fire or by +deep burying. + +Poppy Disease.—Garden Poppies are often attacked by a fungus pest +closely allied to the fungus of the Potato disease, and named +_Peronospora arborescens_. It grows sometimes in abundance on the +common Red Poppy of cornfields (_Papaver Rhoeas_), and it badly attacks +_P. somniferum_ and all its garden varieties. The fungus grows within +the leaves, and emerges with a tree-like growth through the organs of +transpiration (the stomates) on the under side of the leaves. Like the +fungus of the Potato disease, it speedily sets up decomposition, and +destroys the host-plant. + +[Illustration: Fungus of Poppy] FUNGUS OF POPPY DISEASE +_Peronospora arborescens_ + +At A is illustrated one of the stems of the Poppy _Peronospora_ +emerging from the leaf, enlarged seventy-five diameters. The fungus of +the Poppy is very much more branched than that of the Potato, and every +minute branchlet carries a spore. To save confusion, a large number of +spores are omitted from the branchlets in the illustration, and the +branches growing from the stem both before and behind are for the same +reason left out. At B a tip of a single branch is shown further +enlarged to four hundred diameters. The spores in the Poppy fungus are +unusually large and numerous: an infected plant will throw off many +millions of such spores. All the putrefactive spawn of this fungus is +inside the host-plant; cure, therefore, is difficult. This disease, +like every other plant disease, is always at its worst in ill-kept +places where red field Poppies are abundant. Field Poppies are often +sown with unclean corn. As prevention is better than cure, all we can +advise is, buy the best and cleanest garden and field seeds, cultivate +in the best way, and look out for and burn, or deeply bury as soon as +detected, all disease-stricken plants, whether wild or cultivated. When +diseased plants of any sort are left to decay on the refuse-heap, it is +the most certain way of propagating a plant disease for the next year. + +Diseases of Violets.—Violets are subject to fungoid diseases, both in +spring and autumn. The disease of autumn is caused by the brown +_Puccinia violæ_, allied to the _P. graminis_ of Corn and to the _P. +malvacearum_ of Hollyhocks and various malvaceous plants. The +_Puccinia_ of Violets has its yellowish or orange-coloured stage; it is +then known as _Trichobasis_, or _Uredo violarum_. In spring and early +summer Violets are often badly affected by a fungus named _Æcidium +violæ_, which is apparently identical, however, with _Puccinia violæ_. +This disease attacks leaves, stems, and sepals, and it is best examined +on the leaves. In this position it is seen to consist of a considerable +number of minute yellow pustules, each pustule less in size than a +pin’s head, and all congregated into one flat circular mass of about a +quarter of an inch in diameter. This pest is very frequent on the Dog +Violet, but it is perhaps equally common on the Sweet Violets of our +gardens in early spring, and it not infrequently spreads to other +species of _Viola_. One of the most destructive pests of Violas is +found in _Æcidium depauperans_, so called because its effect is first +to starve and attenuate, and then to totally destroy, plants of _Viola +cornuta_. It is a close ally of _Ae. violæ_, but it differs in having +its minute cups or pustules irregularly distributed all over the green +parts of the host-plant instead of being congregated in circular +patches, as in _Ae. violæ_. Our illustration shows, at A, a small +portion of the stem of _Viola cornuta_ attacked by _Æcidium +depauperans_. The minute pustules are seen (natural size) distributed +all over the stem, leaf-stalks, and ruined leaves; the effect of the +fungus growth is to decompose the tissues of the plant. At B, a +transverse section through the stem is illustrated and magnified twenty +diameters. The section cuts through several of the abscess-like +pustules, and it is seen how completely embedded they are in the flesh +of the plant. At C, a pustule is seen in section, enlarged sixty +diameters to show more clearly the innumerable spores, or ‘seeds,’ +disposed in necklace-like fashion, which are destined to reproduce the +pest in future seasons. Another disease of Violets in autumn is caused +by a fungus named _Urocystis violæ_. This fungus causes gouty swellings +to form on the stalks and principal veins. These swellings at length +burst, exhibit black patches, and discharge sooty spores. The fungoid +disease named _Phyllosticta violæ_ is frequently common on Violet +leaves in June. In this the spots are whitish. No cure is known, and it +is always well to burn or deeply bury all infected leaves or plants. + +[Illustration: Violet Disease] VIOLET DISEASE +_Æcidium depauperans_ + + + + +INDEX + + +Abronia, 373 + +Abutilon, 228, 365, 373 + +Achimenes, 228, 320, 360 + +Acidia heraclei, 420 + +Aconite, Winter, 353, 410 + +Acroclinium, 373 + +Æcidium depauperans, 452 +—violæ, 451 + +Agapanthus, 320, 400 + +Agaricus campestris, 84 + +Allium, 321 +—ascalonicum, 129 +—Cepa, 92 +—Porrum, 73 +—sativum, 63 +—Schoenoprasum, 66 + +Alonsoa, 229, 398 + +Alpine Strawberry, 137, 159, 170 + +Alstroemeria, 321, 400 + +Althæa rosea, 271 + +Alyssum, 373, 397 + +Amaryllis, 229, 340, 360, 401 + +American Blight, 418 +—Cress, 54 + +Anbury, 146, 434 + +Anchusa, 386 + +Anemone, 229, 321, 365, 390, 401, 407 + +Angelica, 65 +—Archangelica, 65 + +Annuals, 220, 385 +—classified according to colour, 222 +—Half-hardy, 226 +—Hardy, 226, 364, 372, 380, 396, 407 +—Tender, 227 +—under glass, 225, 397 + +Annual Chrysanthemum, 250, 373, 397, 398 + +Anthriscus Cerefolium, 66 + +Antirrhinum, 230, 360, 386, 395, 397 + +Ants, 428 + +Aphis, 416 +—Bean, 417 +—Pea, 417 +—rumicis, 417 + +Apium graveolens, 47 + +April work among Flowers, 380 +—in the Vegetable Garden, 172 + +Aquilegia, 231, 365, 390 + +Artemisia Absinthium, 71 +—Dracunculus, 71 + +Artichoke, Chinese, 132 +—Globe, 4, 153, 160, 165, 172, 188, 194 +—Jerusalem, 6, 161, 165, 194 + +Artificial Manures, and their application to Garden Crops, 210 + +Asparagus, 7, 154, 166, 172, 177, 182, 194 +—Greenhouse Foliage varieties, 232, 366 +—officinalis, 7 + +Asperula, 373, 397 + +Aster, 232, 373, 380, 398 +—sub-cæruleus, 386 + +Aubergine, 61 + +Aubrietia, 235, 386 + +August work among Flowers, 396 +—in the Vegetable Garden, 188 + +Auricula, 236, 366, 374 + +Australian Oak, 271 + +Autumn Broccoli, 31 + + +Babiana, 323, 401 + +Balm, 66 + +Balsam, 237, 374, 381, 386, 390 +—Sultan’s, 273 + +Barbarea præcox, 54 + +Barbe de Capucin, 122 + +Barberton or Transvaal Daisy, 266 + +Bartonia, 373 + +Basil, Bush, 66 + +—Sweet, 66 + +Bastard Trenching, 112 + +Bean Aphis, 417 + +—Broad, 16, 154, 161, 166, 172, 195, 196 + +—Butter, 24 + +—Climbing French, 21, 161, 173, 178, 183, 186 + +—Dwarf French 17, 161, 173, 177, 183, 185, 186 + +—Flageolets, 20, 178 + +—Haricot, 22, 178 + +—Runner, 22, 178, 183 + +—Waxpod, 24 + +Beet, Garden 24, 122, 161, 156, 173, 178, 185, 193 + +—Silver, or Sea Kale, 27 + +—Spinach, 132, 170, 176 + +Begonia, Fibrous-rooted, 240, 361 + +—Tuberous-rooted 238, 323, 360, 366, 391, 401 + +Bell Flower, 244 + +Bellis perennis, 260 + +Belvidere, 274 + +Bermuda Lily, 341 + +Beta Cicla, 132 + +—vulgaris, 24 + +Biennials, Hardy, 227, 364, 386, 396 + +Bird Pepper, 40 + +Black Bot, 131 + +—Fly, 416 + +—Scab of Potatoes, 440 + +Blacksmiths, 431 + +Blight, American. . .418 + +Blue Fly, 416 + +—Squill, 348 + +Borage, 66 + +Borago officinalis, 66 + +Bordeaux mixture, 440 + +Border, Warm, 196 + +Borecole, 27, 176 + +Brassica oleracea acephala, 27 + +—botrytis asparagoides, 29 +—caulifiora, 44 +—bullata, 38 +—gemmifera, 33 +—capitata, 35 +—Caulo-rapa, 72 +—costata, 53 +—Rapa, 144 + +Bremia lactucæ, 442 + +Broad Bean, 16, 154, 161, 166, 172, 195, 196 + +Broccoli, 29, 161, 166, 173,178, 183, 186, 188, 195 + +Brompton Stock, 301, 394 + +Brussels Sprouts, 33, 161, 166, 173, 178 + +Bug, Mealy, 425 + +Bulbs, Flowering, Culture of, 317 + +—growing in Moss-fibre, 319, 335, 345, 352 + +—in Store, 413 + +Burgundy mixture, 440 + +Bush Basil, 66 + +Butter Bean, 24 + +Butterfly Flower, 296 + + +Cabbage, 35, 154, 161, 166, 173, 178, 183, 185, 186, 188, 191, 193 + +—Flea, 422 + +—Lettuce, 75, 169, 180 + +—Portugal, 53, 162 + +—Red, 38, 166, 174, 188 + +—Root Fly, 421 + +—Savoy, 38, 163, 181 + +Cacalia, 373 + +Calandrinia, 373, 397 + +Calceolaria, Herbaceous, 240, 374, 391, 395, 401 + +—Shrubby, 243, 366 + +Calendula, 373 + +—officinalis, 67, 278, 397 + +Callistephus sinensis, 232 + +Campanula, 243, 366, 386, 396 + +—Rapunculus, 70 + +Canary Creeper, 308, 383 + +Candytuft, 373, 386, 397 + +Canna, 246, 361, 392 + +Canterbury Bell, 245, 381 + +Cape Primrose, 302 + +Capsicum, 39, 161, 178, 183 + +—annuum, 39 + +—baccatum, 39 + +Cardoon, 40, 174, 186, 188, 193 + +Carnation, 247, 362, 381, 398 + +Carrot, 41, 166, 174, 178, 185,186, 193, 195 + +—Fly, 419 + +—Moth, 419 + +Carum Petroselinum, 68 + +Castor-oil Plant, 293, 371 + +Catchfly, 298, 400 + +Caterpillars, 428 + +Cauliflower 44, 154, 161, 166, 174, 178, 183, 185, 188, 191, 193, 195 + +Cayenne Pepper, 40 + +Celeriac, 51, 122, 166, 193 + +Celery 47, 122, 166, 174, 179, 183, 186, 189, 191, 193, 195, 196 +—Fly, 51, 419 +—Leaf Spot of, 442 + +Celosia cristata, 254 +—plumosa, 248, 367 + +Centranthus, 373 + +Ceutorhynchus pleurostigma, 437 + +Chards, 5, 124, 186, 191 + +Cheiranthus Allionii, 386, 397 +—Cheiri, 310 + +Chemistry of Garden Crops, 202 + +Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus, 84 + +Chervil, 122, 174 +—Curled, 66, 122 + +Chicory, 52, 122, 183, 193 + +Chili, 39, 161 + +Chimney Campanula, 244 + +Chinese Artichoke, 132 +—Primrose, 291 +—Sacred Lily, 346 + +Chionodoxa, 325, 398 + +Chives, 66, 122, 167 + +Chrysanthemum, 249, 362, 373, 381, 386, 397, 398 + +Cichorium Endivia, 61 +—Intybus, 52 + +Cineraria, 250, 362, 387, 392, 398 +—Disease, 447 +—Intermediate, 252 +—stellata, 252 + +Cladosporium fulvum, 445 + +Clarkia, 253, 373, 397, 398 + +Cleaning Old Pots, 357 + +Clerodendron fallax, 254, 375 + +Click-Beetle, 431 + +Climbing French Bean, 21, 161, 173, 178, 183, 186 + +Club, 434 + +Cochlearia Armoracia, 72 + +Cockscomb, 254, 367 +—Plumed, 248 + +Coleus, 255, 375, 387 + +Coleworts, 36, 178, 183 + +Collinsia, 373, 397 + +Collomia, 373 + +Columbine, 231 + +Common Thyme, 71 + +Convallaria majalis, 342 + +Convolvulus minor, 373 + +Coreopsis, 373, 386, 397 + +Corn Flag, 267 +—Salad, 53, 122, 161, 185, 189 + +Cornflower, 373, 397 + +Cos Lettuce, 75, 169, 184 + +Cosmea, 256, 367 + +Cosmos, 256 + +Couve Tronchuda, 53, 162 + +Crambe maritima, 125 + +Crane Fly, 424 + +Cress, 54, 123, 154, 185 +—American, 54 +—Indian, 308 +—Land, 54 +—Water, 54, 123, 171 + +Crocus, 325, 401, 407 +—Disease, 448 + +Crops, Garden, Chemistry of, 202 +—Rotation of, 198 + +Crown Imperial, 326, 402 + +Cucumber, 55, 123, 154, 167, 179, 183, 187, 189, 191 +—Pickling, 183 +—Ridge, 60, 179, 187 +—Root-knot Eelworm, 424 +—Winter, 58 + +Cucumis Melo, 80 +—sativus, 55 + +Cucurbita, 63 +—Pepo ovifera, 147 + +Culture of Flowering Bulbs, 317 +—of Flowers from Seeds, 216 +—of Vegetables, 1 + +Curled Chervil, 66, 122 + +Cutting Flowers, 260 + +Cyclamen, 256, 326, 362, 382, 387, 396, 398, 402, 407, 410 + +Cynara Cardunculus, 40 +—Scolymus, 4 + +Cynoglossum, 386 + + +Dactylopius odonidum, 425 + +Daddy Longlegs, 424 + +Daffodils, 344, 405 + +Dahlia, 258, 367, 382, 387 + +Daisy, Barberton or Transvaal, 266 +—Double, 260, 392 +—Orange, 263 +—Ox-eye, 250, 381 + +Dandelion, 60, 123, 180 + +Daucus Carota, 41 + +Day Lily, Japanese, 343 + +December work among Flowers, 412 + +—in the Vegetable Garden, 196 + +Delphinium, 261, 387 + +Depressaria cicutella, 419 + +Dianthus, 262, 367, 375, 393, 398 + +—barbatus, 307 + +—Caryophyllus fl. pl., 247, 287 + +—plumarius, 288 + +Digitalis, 262, 386 + +Dimorphotheca, 263, 373, 375, 398 + +Disease, Cineraria, 447 + +—Crocus, 448 + +—Gladiolus, 448 + +—Hollyhock, 449 + +—Lily, 448 + +—Narcissus, 448 + +—Pea, 443 + +—Poppy, 450 + +—Potato, 117, 437 + +—Senecio, 447 + +—Tomato, 443 + +—Violet, 451 + +—Wart, of Potatoes, 44 + +Dog’s-tooth Violet, 327, 402 + +Double Daisy, 260, 392 + +Drainage of Pots, 358 + +Dwarf French Bean, 17, 161, 173, 177, 183, 185, 186 + + +Earwigs, 428 + +Easter Lily, 341 + +Eelworm, Root-knot, 424, 445 + +Egg Plant, 61, 162 + +Elater lineatus, 431 + +—obscurus, 431 + +—ruficaudis, 431 + +Endive, 61, 123, 174, 183, 185, 187, 189, 191, 193, 197 + +Erysimum, 373, 397 + +Erysiphe Martii, 443 + +Eschscholtzia, 264, 373, 397 + +Eutoca, 373 + + +Faba vulgaris, 16 + +Feather Hyacinth, 336, 408 + +February work among Flowers, 364 + +—in the Vegetable Garden, 160 + +Fennel, 66, 174 + +Ferraria, 350, 379 + +Fibrous-rooted Begonia, 240, 361 + +Finger-and-toe, 434 + +Finocchio, 67 + +Flageolets, 20, 178 + +Flea, Cabbage, 422 + +Florence Fennel, 67 + +Flower of the West Wind, 354 + +Flowering Bulbs, Culture of, 317 + +Flowers all the Year Round, 355 + +—from Seeds, Culture of, 216 + +Fly, Black, 416 + +—Blue, 416 + +—Cabbage Root, 421 + +—Carrot, 419 + +—Celery, 51, 419 + +—Crane, 424 + +—Green, 416 + +—Onion, 420 + +—Turnip, 422 + +Fœniculum duke, 67 + +—officinale, 66 + +Forced Strawberries, 136 + +Forcing in January, 153 + +Forget-me-not, 280 + +Foxglove, 262 + +Fragaria, 133 + +Frame Cucumber, 55 + +—Ground, 160 + +Freesia, 264, 328, 362, 398, 402 + +Fritillaria, 326, 328, 402 + +Fuchsia, 264, 367 + +Fungicide, 440, 446 + +Fungus Pests of certain Flowers, 447 + +—of certain Garden Plants, 434 + +Fusarium lycopersici, 444 + + +Gaillardia, 265, 375, 386 + +Galega officinalis, 386 + +Garden Beet, 24, 122, 161, 166, 173, 178, 185, 193 + +—Crops, Chemistry of, 202 + +—Pea, 101, 158, 162, 169, 176, 180, 184, 185, 187, 190, 195 + +—Rubbish, 185 + +—Vermin, Eradication of, 414 + +Garlic, 63, 162, 168, 187 + +Gaura Lindheimeri, 386 + +Geranium, 265, 368, 393, 399 + +Gerbera, 266, 399 + +Gesnera, 266, 362 + +Geum, 267, 375, 386 + +Gilia, 373, 397 + +Gladiolus 267, 329, 368, 376, 382, 393, 402, 4O7, 410 + +Globe Artichoke, 4, 153, 160, 165, 172, 188, 194 + +Glory of the Snow, 325 + +Gloxinia, 268, 331, 363, 368, 376, 402 + +Godetia, 269, 373, 397 + +Good King Henry, 84 + +Gourd, 63, 180 + +Grape Hyacinth, 336, 408 + +Green Fly, 416 + +Grevillea robusta, 271, 363 + +‘Grub’, 437 + +Gypsophila, 373, 386, 398 + + +Half-hardy Annuals, 226 + +Haltica (Phyllotreta) nemorum, 422 +—oleracea, 422 + +Hardy Annuals, 226, 364, 372, 380, 396, 407 +—Biennials, 227, 364, 386, 396 +—Perennials, 227, 386 + +Haricot Bean, 22, 178 + +Hawkweed, 373 + +Helianthus annuus, 138, 302 +—tuberosus, 6 + +Helichrysum, 373 + +Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pl., 343 + +Herbaceous Calceolaria, 240, 374, 391, 395, 401 + +Herbs, 64, 168, 174 + +Heterodera radicicola, 424, 445 + +Heuchera, 386 + +Hibiscus, 373 + +Hippeastrum, 229 + +Hollyhock, 271, 363, 376, 388, 393, 408 +—Disease, 449 + +Horehound, 67 + +Horse-radish, 72, 156, 168, 195 + +Hot-bed, 165, 167 + +Humus, 208 + +Hyacinth, 332, 403, 408 +—Feather, 336, 408 +—Grape, 336, 408 +—Italian, 337, 399, 404, 408 +—Miniature, 336, 408 +—Roman, 337, 399, 404, 408 + +Hyacinthus candicans, 338, 410 + +Hyssop, 67, 174 + +Hyssopus officinalis, 67 + + +Iberis, 386 + +Iceland Poppy, 397 + +Impatiens, 273, 376 +—Balsamina, 237 + +Indian Cress, 308 +—Pink, 262 +—Shot, 246, 361 + +Intermediate Cineraria, 252 +—Stock, 301, 371, 400 + +Introductory Remarks to Culture of Flowering Bulbs, 317 +—of Flowers from Seeds, 216 +—All the Year Round, 355 +—of Vegetables, 1 +—Pests of Garden Plants, 414 +—to a Year’s Work in Vegetable Garden, 151 + +Iris, 338, 404 + +Italian Hyacinth, 337, 399, 404, 408 + +Ixia, 338, 404 + + +Jacobea, 297, 373 + +January work among Flowers, 360 +—in the Vegetable Garden, 152 + +Japan Pink, 262 + +Japanese Day Lily, 343 + +Jerusalem Artichoke, 6, 161, 165, 194 + +Jonquil, 339, 405 + +July work among Flowers, 395 +—in the Vegetable Garden, 185 + +June work among Flowers, 390 +—in the Vegetable Garden, 182 + + +Kale, 27, 176 +—Sea Kale, 125, 159, 163, 170, 195 + +Kaulfussia, 373 + +Knol Kohl, 72, 168 + +Kochia trichophylla, 274, 368, 382 + +Kohl Rabi, 72, 168, 185 + + +Lachenalia, 339, 408 + +Lactuca sativa, 75 + +Lamb’s Lettuce, 53 + +Land Cress, 54 + +Larkspur, 274, 373, 397 + +Lathyrus odoratus, 303 +Lavandula, 67 + +Lavatera, 275, 373, 377 + +Lavender, 67 + +Layia, 373 + +Leaf-mould, 356 + +Leaf Rust of Tomato, 445 + +—Spot of Celery, 442 + +Leather-jacket, 424 + +Lecanium hibernaculorum, 426 + +Leek, 73, 156, 168, 175, 187 + +—Bulbs, 75 + +Lemon Thyme, 71 + +Lepidium sativum, 54 + +Leptosiphon, 373, 397 + +Leptosyne, 373 + +Lettuce, 75, 123, 156, 162, 169, 175, 180, 184, 185, 189, 191, 193 + +—Lamb’s, 53 + +—Mildew, 442 + +Leucojum, 339, 408 + +Lilies, 340, 410 + +Lilium auratum, 341, 410 + +—Harrisii, 341 + +—lancifolium, 342, 410 + +Lily, Bermuda, 341 + +—Chinese Sacred, 346 + +—Disease, 448 + +—Easter, 341 + +—Japanese Day, 343 + +—of the Valley, 342, 411 + +Lime, 212 + +Limnanthes, 373, 397 + +Linaria, 373, 397, 398 + +Linum, 373 + +Lobelia, 275, 368, 377, 383, 396 + +Love-lies-bleeding, 373 + +Lupine, 277 + +Lupinus, 277, 373, 377, 386 + +Lycopersicum esculentum, 138 + + +Maize, 80, 180 + +Mallow, 275, 377 + +Malope, 373 + +Manures, Artificial, and their application to Garden Crops, 210 + +March work among-Flowers, 372 + +—in the Vegetable Garden, 164 + +Marguerite, 250, 381 + +Marigold, 277, 373, 377, 383 + +—Pot, 67, 278 + +Marjoram, Pot, 67 + +—Sweet Knotted, 67 + +Marrow, Vegetable, 147, 176, 182 + +Marrubium vulgare, 67 + +Marvel of Peru, 278, 377, 383 + +Mathiola, 299, 373 + +May work among Flowers, 385 + +—in the Vegetable Garden, 176 + +Mealy Bug, 425 + +Melissa officinalis, 66 + +Melon, 80, 157, 169, 175, 180, 184 + +Melon-house, the, 83 + +Mentha Pulegium, 69 + +—viridis, 68 + +Mercury, 84 + +Mice, 432 + +Mignonette, 279, 373, 377, 383, 399 + +Mildew, Lettuce, 442 + +—Onion, 442 + +Mimulus, 279, 369, 396 + +—moschatus, 280 + +Miniature Hyacinth, 336, 408 + +Mint, 68 + +Mirabilis Jalapa, 278 + +Monkey Flower, 279 + +Montbretia, 343 + +Moss-fibre, growing bulbs in, 319, 335, 345, 352 + +Mushroom, 84, 184 + +Musk, 280 + +Mustard, 92, 123, 157, 162 + +Myosotis, 280, 393 + + +Nægelia, 266 + +Narcissus, 344, 399, 405, 409 + +—Disease, 448 + +—Tazetta, 346 + +Nasturtium, 123, 308, 373, 383 + +—officinale, 54 + +Nemesia, 280, 378, 398 + +Nemophila, 373, 397 + +New Zealand Spinach, 131, 170, 181 + +Nicotiana, 281, 369, 388, 393, 398 + +Nigella, 373, 397 + +Nitrogenous manures, 211 + +November work among Flowers, 410 + +—in the Vegetable Garden, 194 + +Oak, Australian, 271 + +October work among Flowers, 407 + +—in the Vegetable Garden, 192 + +Ocymum Basilicum, 66 + +—minimum, 66 + +Oenothera, 386 + +Onion, 92, 123, 158, 162, 169, 175, 184, 185, 189 + +—Fly, 420 + +—Grub, 99 + +—Mildew, 442 + +—Pickling, 99, 175 + +—Potato, 99 + +—Salading, 184 + +—Underground, 99, 197 + +Orache, 132 + +Orange Daisy, 263 + +Origanum Majorana, 67 + +—Onites, 67 + +Ornithogalum, 347, 409 + +Ovularia elliptica, 448 + +Oxalis, 347, 406 + +Ox-eye Daisy, 250, 381 + + +Pansy, 282, 369, 393 + +Papaver, 288, 397 + +Parsley, 68, 162, 176, 185, 187, 191, 197 + +Parsnip, 100, 162, 169, 193 + +Pastinaca sativa, 100 + +Pea, 101, 158, 162, 169, 176, 180, 184, 185, 187, 190, 195 + +—Disease, 443 + +—Siphon-Aphis, 417 + +—Sweet, 303, 371, 373, 379, 400, 406 + +Peat for Pot Plants, 356 + +Pelargonium, 265, 283, 369, 399 + +Pennyroyal, 69 + +Pentstemon, 283, 378 + +Pepper, Bird, 40 + +—Cayenne, 40 + +Perennial Phlox, 287, 378 + +Perennials, Hardy, 227, 386 + +Perilla nankinensis, 222 + +Peronospora arborescens, 450 + +—infestans, 437 + +—Schleideni, 442 + +—viciæ, 443 + +Perpetual Spinach, 132, 170, 176 + +Pests of Garden Plants, 414 + +—Fungus, of certain Flowers, 447 + +—of certain Garden Plants, 434 + +Petunia, 284, 363, 369, 383, 388 + +Phacelia, 373, 397 + +Phaseolus multiflorus, 22 + +—vulgaris, 17 + +Phlox Drummondii, 286, 369, 378, 398 + +—Perennial, 287, 387 + +Phorbia brassicæ, 421 + +—cepetorum, 99, 421 + +Phosphatic manures, 211 + +Phytophthora infestans, 117, 437, 445 + +Pickling Cucumber, 183 + +—Onion, 99, 175 + +Picotee, 287, 383, 399 + +Pink, 262, 288, 383 + +Pisum sativum, 101 + +Plasmodiophora brassicæ, 434 + +Platystemon, 373 + +Plumed Cockscomb, 248 + +Polianthes tuberosa, 351 + +Pollination of Melons, 84 + +Polyanthus, 288, 370, 394 + +—Narcissus, 344 + +Poppy, 288, 373, 378, 386 + +—Disease, 450 + +—Iceland, 397 + +—Shirley, 397 + +Portugal Cabbage, 53, 162 + +Portulaca, 289, 388, 394 + +—oleracea, 69 + +Potash manures, 212 + +Potato, 108, 158, 169, 176, 185, 187, 192, 193 + +—Disease, 117, 437 + +—Onion, 99 + +—spraying, 440 + +—Wart Disease of, 440 + +Pot Marigold, 67, 278 + +—Marjoram, 67 + +Pots, cleaning, 357 + +—sizes of, 357 + +Potting soil, 355 + +Primrose, 289, 370, 394 + +—Cape, 302 + +—Chinese, 291 + +Primula Auricula, 236 + +—Half-hardy, 292, 370 + +—Hardy, 293 + +—sinensis, 291, 388, 394, 396 + +—stellata, 292 + +—(veris) elatior, 288 + +—vulgaris, 289 + +Prince’s Feather, 373 + +Psila rosæ, 419 + +Puccinia malvacearum, 449 + +Pumpkin, 63, 180 + +Purslane, 69, 123, 289 + +Pyrethrum, 386 + + +Radish, 118, 123, 159, 163, 170, 185, 187, 197 +Rampion, 70, 123 + +Ranunculus, 293, 348, 370, 411 + +Raphanus sativus, 118 + +Rats, 432 + +Red Cabbage, 38, 166, 174, 188 + +—Spider, 426 + +Reseda odorata, 279 + +Rheum hybridum, 120 + +Rhubarb, 120, 163, 193 + +Ricinus, 293, 371, 384 + +Ridge Cucumber, 60, 179, 187 + +Roman Hyacinth, 337, 399, 404, 408 + +Root-knot Eelworm, 424, 445 + +Roots, Storing, 193 + +Rosemary, 70 + +Rosmarinus officinalis, 70 + +Rotation of Crops, 198 + +Rubbish, Garden, 185 + +Rudbeckia, 373 + +Rue, 70 + +Rumex scutatus, 70 + +Runner Bean, 22, 178, 183 + +Ruta graveolens, 70 + + +Sacred Lily, Chinese, 346 + +Sage, 70 + +Saintpaulia, 295 + +Salad, Corn, 53, 122, 161, 185, 189 + +Salads, 122 + +Salpiglossis, 295, 371, 373, 398 + +Salsify, 123, 124, 176, 193 + +Salvia, 70, 295 + +Sanvitalia, 373 + +Saponaria, 373, 397 + +Satureia hortensis, 70 + +—montana, 70 + +Savory, Summer, 70 + +—Winter, 70 + +Savoy Cabbage, 38, 163, 181 + +Saxifrage, 386 + +Scabious, 397 + +Scale, 426 + +Schizanthus, 296, 378, 399 + +Schizoneura lanigera, 418 + +Scilla, 348, 400, 409 + +Scorzonera, 125, 170 + +—hispanica, 125 + +Sea Kale, 125, 159, 163, 170, 195 + +—Beet, 27 + +Sea Lavender, 298, 364, 379 + +Seed Sowing in January, 152 + +Senecio, 297 + +—Disease, 447 + +September work among Flowers, 400 + +—in the Vegetable Garden, 190 + +Septoria apii, 442 + +Shallot, 123, 129, 164, 187 + +Shrubby Calceolaria, 243, 366 + +Silene, 298, 373, 397, 400 + +Silver, or Sea Kale, Beet, 27 + +Sinapis alba, 92 + +—nigra, 92 + +Siphonophora pisi, 417 + +Sizes of Pots, 357 + +Sleepy Disease of Tomato, 444 + +Slugs, 429 + +Snails, 430 + +Snapdragon, 230 + +Snowdrop, 349, 406 + +Snowflake, Spring, 339 + +—Summer, 339 + +Soil for Pot Plants, 355 + +Solanum, 298, 371, 378, 394 + +—esculentum, 61 + +—Melongena, 61 + +—tuberosum, 108 + +Sorrel, 70, 123 + +Sparaxis, 338, 406 + +Sparrows, 106, 282, 326 + +Spearmint, 68 + +Spider, Red, 426 + +Spinach, 130, 159, 164, 170, 176, 185, 187, 192 + +—Beet, 132, 170, 176 + +—Moth Grub, 187 + +—New Zealand, 131, 170, 181 + +—Perpetual, 132, 170, 176 + +Spinacia oleracea, 130 + +Spirals, 132 + +Spraying Potatoes, 440 + +Spring Broccoli, 31 + +—flowering Stock, 301, 394, 400 + +—Flowers from Seeds, 313 + +Spring-Jack, 431 + +Spring Snowflake, 339 + +Sprouting Broccoli, 33, 188 + +Sprouts, Brussels, 33, 161, 166, 173, 178 + +Squill, Blue, 348 + +Stachys tuberifera, 132 + +Star of Bethlehem, 347 + +—Cineraria, 252 + +—Primula, 292 + +—of the Veldt, 263, 375 + +Static, 298, 364, 379 + +Stock, 299 + +—Intermediate, 301, 371, 400 + +—Spring-flowering, 301, 394, 400 + +—Summer-flowering, or Ten-week, 299, 379, 384, 389 + +—Winter-flowering, 301, 394 + +—Virginian, 373, 397 + +Stored Bulbs, 413 + +Storing Roots, 193 + +Strawberry, 133, 159, 170, 190 + +—Alpine, 137, 159, 170 + +—Forced, 136 + +Streptocarpus, 302 + +—Wendlandii, 302 + +‘Stripe’ of Tomato, 444 + +Sugar Corn, 80, 180 + +Sultan’s Balsam, 273 + +Sultan, Sweet, 373, 397 + +Summer Broccoli, 32 + +—Cypress, 274 + +—flowering, or Ten-week Stock, 299, 379, 384, 389 + +—Savory, 70 + +—Snowflake, 339 + +—sown Vegetables for Autumn and Winter use, 185, 188 + +Sunflower, 138, 302, 373, 385 + +Swan River Daisy, 373, 398 + +Swede, 147 + +Sweet Basil, 66 + +—Herbs, 64, 168, 174 + +—Knotted Marjoram, 67 + +—Pea, 303, 371, 373, 379, 400, 406 + +—Sultan, 373, 397 + +—William, 307, 389 + +Synchytrium endobioticum, 440 + + +Tagetes, 277 + +Taraxacum officinale, 60 + +Tarragon, 71 + +Temperature of Greenhouses, 358 + +Tender Annuals, 227 + +Ten-week Stock, 299, 379, 384, 389 + +Tetragonia expansa, 131 + +Tetranychus telarius, 426 + +Thalictrum, 386 + +Thrips, 427 + +Thyme, Common, 71 + +—Lemon, 71 + +Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris, 71 + +—vulgaris, 71 + +Tigridia, 350, 379 + +Tipula oleracea, 424 + +Tobacco, 281, 369, 388, 393 + +Tomato, 123, 138, 159, 164, 171, 181, 190 + +—Diseases, 443 + +Torenia, 308 + +Tragopogon porrifolius, 124 + +Traps for Vermin, 415 + +Trichobasis senecionis, 447 + +Triteleia uniflora, 350, 409 + +Tritonia, 350, 411 + +Tropæolum, 308, 351 + +—canariense, 308, 383 + +—majus, 308 + +—nanum, 309 + +—speciosum, 351 + +—tuberosum, 351, 406 + +Tuberose, 351, 409 + +Tuberous-rooted Begonia, 238, 323, 360, 366, 391, 401 + +Tufted Pansy, 310 + +Tulip, 352, 406, 409, 411 + +Turban Ranunculus, 348, 370 + +Turnip, 144, 164, 176, 182, 185, 187, 190, 193 + +—Fly or Flea, 422 + +Turnip-gall Weevil, 437 + +Turnip-rooted Celery, 51 + + +Underground Onion, 99, 197 + +Uredo senecionis, 447 + +Urocystis gladioli, 448 + + +Valerianella olitoria, 53 + +Vallota purpurea, 353, 372 + +Vegetable Garden, A Year’s Work in, 151 + +—Rotation of Crops in, 198 + +—Marrow, 147, 176, 182 + +—Oyster, 123, 124, 176 + +Vegetables, The Culture of, 1 + +Ventilating Greenhouses and Frames, 358 + +Venus’ Looking-glass, 373, 397 + +—Navel-wort, 373 + +Verbascum, 386 + +Verbena, 309, 364, 372, 380, 389 + +Vermin, Garden, Eradication of, 414 + +—Traps, 415 + +Viola, 310, 386 + +—tricolor, 282 + +Violet Diseases, 451 + +—Dog’s-tooth, 327, 402 + +Virginian Stock, 373, 397 + +Viscaria, 373, 397 + + +Wallflower, 310, 390, 395, 409 + +Warm Border, 196 + +Wart Disease of Potatoes, 440 + +Wasps, 430 + +Water Cress, 54, 123, 171 + +Watering Pot Plants, 357 + +Waxpod Bean, 24 + +Weeds, 190 + +Weevil, Turnip-gall, 437 + +Whitlavia, 373, 397 + +Wigandia, 311, 372 + +Windflower, 229, 321 + +Winter Aconite, 353, 410 + +—Broccoli, 31 + +Winter Cucumber, 58 + +—flowering Stock, 301, 394 + +—Greens, 171, 176, 187, 193 + +—Radish, 120 + +—Savory, 70 + +Wireworm, 43, 330, 381, 431 + +Witloof, 122 + +Woodlice, 432 + +Woolly Aphis, 418 + +Wormwood, 71 + + +Xeranthemum, 373 + + +Year’s Work in the Vegetable Garden, A, 151 + + +Zea Mays, 80 + +Zephyranthes Candida, 354, 412 + +Zinnia, 311, 380, 385, 390, 395 +Permanent and Temporary Pastures. + +By MARTIN SUTTON, F.L.S. + +_POPULAR EDITION_. In paper cover, price 1s. + +‘“PERMANENT AND TEMPORARY PASTURES.”—Mr Martin Sutton speaks with +authority on this absorbing subject, and his book should be in the +hands of every farmer who desires to make the most of his +opportunities; the information it affords is of the utmost practical +advantage. Here will be found ample instruction, the results of +knowledge acquired by experience and exhaustive experiment.’—ESTATES +GAZETTE. + + +Lawns, + +Including Cricket Grounds, Putting Greens and Bowling Greens. + +By SUTTON & SONS, Reading. + +_THIRTEENTH EDITION_. Price _2s. 6d._ net. + +Containing full particulars on preparing the ground, sowing seed, and +after-management. Illustrated with numerous reproductions from +beautiful photographs of Lawns, and including plans of Tennis Lawn and +Croquet Ground. + +May be obtained through all Booksellers, from the Publishers, SIMPKIN, +MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD., LONDON. + + +The Book of the Links. + +By MARTIN H.F. SUTTON, F.L.S. + +Royal 8vo. Price 15s. net. + +The book indispensable, from all points of view, to those concerned in +the management of Golf Clubs. + +Illustrated with numerous excellent Photographs, and some striking +original Cartoons by Tom Wilkinson. + +SUTTON & SONS, READING, + +SEEDSMEN TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING. + +WORKS ISSUED BY SUTTON & SONS. + +Sutton’s Amateur’s Guide in Horticulture and General Garden Seed +Catalogue. + +Containing Descriptive Lists of the finest strains of Vegetables, and +the most beautiful Flowers for the greenhouse, conservatory and garden. + +PUBLISHED ANNUALLY IN JANUARY. + +Sent Gratis to regular Customers. + + +Sutton’s Farmers’ Year-Book and Graziers’ Manual. + +Containing Information on Permanent and Temporary Pastures and Leys, +Lists of Natural Grasses and Clovers; + +Descriptions of Turnips, Mangolds, and other Farm Crops. + +Gratis and Post Free to Customers. + +PUBLISHED ANNUALLY IN FEBRUARY. + + +Sutton’s Bulbs. + +Containing Descriptive Lists of Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, Lilies and +other Flowering Bulbs. + +Beautifully Illustrated, and sent Free to Regular Customers for Bulbs. + +PUBLISHED ANNUALLY IN AUGUST. + + +Bulletins. + +No. 1. Brassica Cresses. ”2. Tuber-bearing Solanums. ”3. Experiments in +Crossing a Wild Pea from Palestine with Commercial Peas. ”4. Results +obtained by Crossing a Wild Pea from Palestine with Commercial Types +and Pisum sativum umbellatum. ”5. The Progress in Vegetable Cultivation +during Queen Victoria’s Reign. ”6. The Effects of Radio-active Ores and +Residues on Plant Life. (_First Series_.) ”7. The Effects of +Radio-active Ores and Residues on Plant Life. (_Second Series_.) ”8. +Experiments with Humogen in comparison with other Fertilisers. ”9. Do +Potatoes give rise to New and Distinct Varieties by Bud-Variation? ”10. +How Amateurs may secure three successive crops of Vegetables in twelve +months without the aid of glass houses or of heat. ”11. The +Electrification of Seeds by the Wolfryn Process. + +Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 9 and 10 by ARTHUR W. SUTTON, F.L.S., V.M.H. + +Nos. 6, 7, 8 and 11 by MARTIN H.F. SUTTON, F.L.S. + +Price _2s. 6d._ net each. + +SUTTON & SONS, READING, + +SEEDSMEN TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING. + + [1] For permission to reproduce the engravings numbered 1, 3, 4, and 5 + from Professor Marshall Ward’s ‘Diseases of Plants,’ we gladly + acknowledge our indebtedness to the Society for Promoting Christian + Knowledge. Professor W. 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