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diff --git a/16232-h/16232-h.htm b/16232-h/16232-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..186487b --- /dev/null +++ b/16232-h/16232-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,21724 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Culture Of Vegetables And Flowers From Seeds And Roots, by Sutton And Sons Reading</title> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> +<style type="text/css"> + +body { margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + text-align: justify; } + +h1, h2, h3, h4, h5 {text-align: center; font-style: normal; font-weight: +normal; line-height: 1.5; margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: .5em;} + +h1 {font-size: 300%; + margin-top: 0.6em; + margin-bottom: 0.6em; + letter-spacing: 0.12em; + word-spacing: 0.2em; + text-indent: 0em;} +h2 {font-size: 150%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em;} +h3 {font-size: 150%; margin-top: 2em;} +h4 {font-size: 120%;} +h5 {font-size: 110%;} + +hr {width: 80%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em;} + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always; margin-top: 4em;} + +p {text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: 0.25em; + margin-bottom: 0.25em; } + +p.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +p.footnote {font-size: 90%; + text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; } + +sup { vertical-align: top; font-size: 0.6em; } + +div.fig { display:block; + margin:0 auto; + text-align:center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em;} + +p.caption {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center; } + +a:link {color:blue; text-decoration:none} +a:visited {color:blue; text-decoration:none} +a:hover {color:red} + +</style> +</head> +<body> + +<pre> +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition, by Sutton and Sons + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition + +Author: Sutton and Sons + +Release Date: July 7, 2005 [EBook #16232] +[Most recently updated: August 10, 2020] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS *** + + + + +Produced by Paul Murray, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="fig" style="width:60%;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" style="width:100%;" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +<h1>THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS</h1> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>SUTTON AND SONS READING</h2> + +<p>SIXTEENTH EDITION</p> + +<p>LONDON</p> + +<p>SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO; LTD.</p> + +<p>1921</p> + +<p>All rights reserved</p> + +<p>PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE AND CO. LTD. LONDON, COLCHESTER AND +ETON</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a>Contents</h2> + +<p> +<a href="#THE_CULTURE_OF_VEGETABLES"><b>THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES</b></a><br /> +<a href="#A_YEARS_WORK_IN_THE_VEGETABLE_GARDEN"><b>A YEAR’S WORK IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN</b></a><br /> +<a href="#JANUARY"><b>JANUARY</b></a><br /> +<a href="#FEBRUARY"><b>FEBRUARY</b></a><br /> +<a href="#MARCH"><b>MARCH</b></a><br /> +<a href="#APRIL"><b>APRIL</b></a><br /> +<a href="#MAY"><b>MAY</b></a><br /> +<a href="#JUNE"><b>JUNE</b></a><br /> +<a href="#JULY"><b>JULY</b></a><br /> +<a href="#AUGUST"><b>AUGUST</b></a><br /> +<a href="#SEPTEMBER"><b>SEPTEMBER</b></a><br /> +<a href="#OCTOBER"><b>OCTOBER</b></a><br /> +<a href="#NOVEMBER"><b>NOVEMBER</b></a><br /> +<a href="#DECEMBER"><b>DECEMBER</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_ROTATION_OF_CROPS_IN_THE_VEGETABLE_GARDEN"><b>THE ROTATION OF CROPS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_CHEMISTRY_OF_GARDEN_CROPS"><b>THE CHEMISTRY OF GARDEN CROPS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#ARTIFICIAL_MANURES_AND_THEIR_APPLICATION_TO_GARDEN_CROPS"><b>ARTIFICIAL MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION TO GARDEN CROPS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_CULTURE_OF_FLOWERS_FROM_SEEDS"><b>THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS FROM SEEDS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_CULTURE_OF_FLOWERING_BULBS"><b>THE CULTURE OF FLOWERING BULBS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#FLOWERS_ALL_THE_YEAR_ROUND_FROM_SEEDS_AND_ROOTS"><b>FLOWERS ALL THE YEAR ROUND FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_PESTS_OF_GARDEN_PLANTS"><b>THE PESTS OF GARDEN PLANTS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_FUNGUS_PESTS_OF_CERTAIN_GARDEN_PLANTS"><b>THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN GARDEN PLANTS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_FUNGUS_PESTS_OF_CERTAIN_FLOWERS"><b>THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN FLOWERS</b></a><br /> +<a href="#INDEX"><b>INDEX</b></a><br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_0" id="Page_0"></a><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a> +<a name="THE_CULTURE_OF_VEGETABLES" id="THE_CULTURE_OF_VEGETABLES"></a>THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES</h2> + +<p>Horticulture has a full share in the progressive character of the age. +Changes have been effected in the Kitchen Garden which are quite as +remarkable as the altered methods of locomotion, lighting and +sanitation. Vegetables are grown in greater variety, of higher quality, +and are sent to table both earlier and later in the season than was +considered possible by gardeners of former generations.</p> + +<p>When Parkinson directed his readers to prepare Melons for eating by +mixing with the pulp ‘salt and pepper and good store of wine,’ he must +have been familiar with fruit differing widely from the superb varieties +which are now in favour. A kindred plant, the Cucumber, is more prolific +than ever, and the fruits win admiration for their symmetrical form.</p> + +<p>The Tomato has ceased to be a summer luxury for the few, and is now +prized as a delicacy throughout the year by all classes of the +community.</p> + +<p>As a result of the hybridiser’s skill modern Potatoes produce heavier +crops, less liable to succumb to the attacks of disease, than the old +varieties, and the finest table quality has been maintained.</p> + +<p>Peas are not what they were because they are so immensely better. While +the powers of the plant have been concentrated, with the result that it +occupies less room and occasions less trouble, its productiveness has +been augmented and the quality improved. All the pulse tribe have shared +in the advance, and a comparison of any dozen or score of the favourite +sorts of Peas or Beans grown to-day with the same number of favourites +of half or even a quarter <a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>of a century since will at once prove that +progress in horticulture is no dream of the enthusiast.</p> + +<p>Among the Brassicas, such as Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage and +Cauliflower, a series of remarkable examples might be mentioned; and +roots such as Beet, Carrot, Onion, Radish and Turnip afford other +striking instances of improvement. Salads also, including Celery, +Chicory, Endive and Lettuce, have participated in the beneficial change +and offer a large choice of dainties, adapted to various periods of the +year. Indeed it may be truly said that none of the occupants of the +vegetable garden have refused to be improved by scientific crossing and +selection.</p> + +<p>The vegetables which are available for daily use offer a wide and most +interesting field to the expert in selecting and hybridising. For past +achievements we are indebted to the untiring labours of specialists, and +to their continued efforts we look for further results. Whether the +future may have in store greater changes than have already been +witnessed none can tell. One thing only is certain, that finality is +unattainable, and the knowledge of this fact adds to the charm of a +fascinating pursuit. Happily, innovations are no longer received with +the suspicion or hostility they formerly encountered. In gardens +conducted with a spirit of enterprise novelties are welcome and have an +impartial trial. The prudent gardener will regard these sowings as +purely experimental, made for the express purpose of ascertaining +whether better crops can be secured in future years. For his principal +supplies he will rely on those varieties which experience has proved to +be suitable for the soil and adapted to the requirements of the +household he has to serve. By growing the best of everything, and +growing everything well, not only is the finest produce insured in +abundance, but every year the garden presents new features of interest.</p> + +<p>In considering the general order of work in the Kitchen Garden, the +first principle is that its productive powers shall be taxed to the +utmost. There need be no fallowing—no resting of the ground; and if it +should so happen that by hard cropping perplexity arises about the +disposal of produce, the proverbial three courses are open—to sell, to +give, or to dig the stuff in as manure. The last-named course will pay +well, especially in the disposal of the remains of Cabbage, Kale, +Turnips, and other vegetables that have stood through the winter and +occupy ground required for spring seeds. Bury them in trenches, and sow +Peas, Beans, &c., over them, and in due time full value will be obtained +for the buried crops and the labour bestowed <a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>upon them. But hard +cropping implies abundant manuring and incessant stirring of the soil. +To take much off and put little on is like burning the candle at both +ends, or expecting the whip to be an efficient substitute for corn when +the horse has extra work to do. Dig deep always: if the soil be shallow +it is advisable to turn the top spit in the usual manner, and break up +the subsoil thoroughly for another twelve or fifteen inches. Where the +soil is deep and the staple good, trench a piece every year two spits +deep, the autumn being the best time for this work, because of the +immense benefit which results from the exposure of newly turned soil to +rain, snow, frost, and the rest of Nature’s great army of fertilising +agencies.</p> + +<p>In practical work there is nothing like method. Crop the ground +systematically, as if an account of the procedure had to be laid before +a committee of severe critics. Constantly forecast future work and the +disposition of the ground for various crops, keeping in mind the +proportions they should bear to each other. Be particular to have a +sufficiency of the flavouring and garnishing herbs always ready and near +at hand. These are sometimes wanted suddenly, and in a well-ordered +garden it should not be difficult to gather a tuft of Parsley in the +dark. Change crops from place to place, so as to avoid growing the same +things on the same plots in two successive seasons. This rule, though of +great importance, cannot be strictly followed, and may be disregarded to +a certain extent where the land is constantly and heavily manured. It +is, however, of more consequence in connection with the Potato than with +aught else, and this valuable root should, if possible, be grown on a +different plot every year, so that it shall be three or four years in +travelling round the garden. Lastly, sow everything in drills at the +proper distances apart. Broadcasting is a slovenly mode of sowing, and +necessitates slovenly cultivation afterwards. When crops are in drills +they can be efficiently thinned, weeded and hoed—in other words, they +can be cultivated. But broadcasting pretty well excludes the cultivator +from the land, and can only be commended to the idle man, who will be +content with half a crop of poor quality, while the land may be capable +of producing a crop at once the heaviest and the best.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a><b>GLOBE ARTICHOKE</b></p> + +<p><b>Cynara Scolymus</b></p> + +<p>The Globe Artichoke is grown mainly for the sake of its flower-heads +which make a delightful dish when cooked while immature. The plant is +easily raised from seed, although not quite hardy in some districts. It +will grow on almost any soil, but for the production of large fleshy +heads, deep rich ground is requisite. The preparation of the soil should +be liberal, and apart from the use of animal manure the plant may be +greatly aided by wood-ashes and seaweed, for it is partial to saline +manures, its home being the sandy seashores of Northern Africa.</p> + +<p>The simplest routine of cultivation consists in sowing annually, and +allowing each plantation to stand to the close of the second season. +Seed may be sown in February in boxes of light soil, or in the open +ground in March or April. In the former case, put in the seeds one inch +deep and four inches apart, and start them in gentle heat. Grow on the +seedlings steadily, and thoroughly harden off preparatory to planting +out at the end of April, giving each a space of three to four feet apart +each way. Under favourable conditions the plants from the February +sowing will produce heads in the following August, September, and +October. In the second year, the heads will be formed during June and +July. This arrangement not only insures a supply of heads from June to +October, but admits of a more effective rotation of crops in the garden.</p> + +<p>Sowings in the open ground should be made in March or April, in drills +one foot apart. Thin out the plants to six inches apart in the rows and +allow them to stand until the following spring, when they may be +transplanted to permanent beds.</p> + +<p>Globe Artichokes may also be grown from suckers planted out in April +when about nine inches high. Put them in rather deep, tread in firmly, +and lay on any rough mulch that may be handy. Should the weather be dry +they will require watering, and during a hot dry spell water and liquid +manure should be given freely to insure a good supply of large heads. +Seedlings that are started well in a suitable bed take better care of +themselves than do plants from suckers, especially in a dry season. +Vigorous seedlings send down their roots to a great depth.</p> + +<p>To advise on weeding and hoeing for the promotion of a clean and strong +growth should be needless, because all crops require such <a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>attention. +But as to the production of large heads, a few words of advice may be +useful. It is the practice with some growers to twist a piece of wire +round the stem about three inches below the head. This certainly does +tend to increase the size, but the same end may be accomplished by other +means. In the first place, a rich deep bed and abundant supplies of +water will encourage the growth of fine heads. Further aid in the same +direction will be derived from the removal of all the lateral heads that +appear when they are about as large as an egg. Up to this stage they do +not tax the energies of the plants in any great degree; but as the +flowers are forming within them their demands increase rapidly. Their +removal, therefore, has an immediate effect on the main heads, and these +attain to large dimensions without the aid of wire. The small heads will +be valued at many tables for eating raw, as they are eaten in Italy, or +cooked as ‘artichauts frits.’ The larger main heads are the best for +serving boiled in the usual way. After the heads are used the plants +should be cut down.</p> + +<p><b>Chards</b> are the blanched summer growth of Globe Artichokes, and are by +many preferred to blanched Cardoons. In the early part of July the +plants selected for Chards must be cut over about six inches above the +ground. In a few days after this operation they will need a copious +watering, which should be repeated weekly, except when heavy rains +occur. By the end of September the plants will have made much growth and +be ready for blanching. Draw them together, put a band of hay or straw +around them, and earth them up, finishing the work neatly. The blanching +will take fully six weeks, during which time there will be but little +growth made—hence the necessity for promoting free growth before +earthing up. Any Chards not used before winter sets in may be lifted and +preserved by packing in sand in a dry shed.</p> + +<p>The Artichoke is hardy on dry soils when the winter is of only average +severity. But on retentive soils, which are most favourable to the +production of fine heads, a severe winter will destroy the plantations +unless they have some kind of protection. The usual course of procedure +is to cut down the stems and large leaves without touching the smaller +central leaves, and, when severe frost appears probable, partially earth +up the rows with soil taken from between; this protection is +strengthened by the addition of light dry litter loosely thrown over. +With the return of spring the litter is removed, the earth is dug back, +and all the suckers but about three removed: then a liberal dressing of +manure is dug in, care being taken to do as <a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>little injury to the plants +above and below ground as possible. At the end of five years a +plantation will be quite worn out; in somewhat poor soil it will be +exhausted in three years. But on any kind of soil the cultivation of +this elegant vegetable is greatly simplified by sowing annually, and +allowing the plants to stand for two years only, as already advised.</p> + + +<p><b>JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE</b></p> + +<p><b>Helianthus tuberosus</b></p> + +<p>The Jerusalem Artichoke is a member of the Sunflower tribe, quite hardy, +and productive of wholesome roots that are in favour with many as a +delicacy, and by others are regarded as worthless. It is said that wise +men learn to eat every good thing the earth produces, and this root is a +good thing when properly served; but when cooked in the same way as a +Potato it certainly is a very poor vegetable indeed. It is a matter of +some interest, however, that in respect of nutritive value it is about +equal to the Potato; therefore, in growing it for domestic use nothing +is lost in the way of food, though it needs to be cooked in a different +way.</p> + +<p>The Jerusalem Artichoke will grow anywhere; indeed, it will often yield +a profitable return on land which is unsuitable for any other crop, but +to insure a fine sample it requires a deep friable loam and an open +situation. We have grown immense crops on a strong deep clay, but it is +not a clay plant, because it soon suffers from any excess of moisture. +To prepare the ground well for this crop is a matter of importance, for +it roots freely and makes an immense top-growth, reaching, when very +vigorous, a height of ten or twelve feet. Trench and manure in autumn, +and leave the land rough for the winter. Plant in February or March, +using whole or cut sets with about three eyes to each, and put them in +trenches six inches deep and three feet apart, the sets being one foot +apart in the trenches. When the plants appear, hoe the ground between, +draw a little fine earth to the stems, and leave the rest to Nature. +Take up a portion of the crop in November and store in sand and dig the +remainder when wanted, as recommended in the case of Parsnips. The +tubers must be dug with a fork by opening trenches and cleaning out +every scrap of the roots, for whatever remains will grow and become +troublesome in the following season.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a><b>ASPARAGUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Asparagus officinalis</b></p> + +<p>Asparagus is a liliaceous plant of perennial duration, and it demands +more generous treatment than the majority of Kitchen Garden crops. Under +favourable conditions it improves with age to such an extent as to +justify the best possible cultivation. Plantations that have stood and +prospered for twenty or even thirty years are not uncommon, but a fair +average term is ten years, after which it is generally advisable to +break up a bed, the precaution being first taken to secure a succession +bed on fresh soil well prepared for the purpose. Plantations are made +either by sowing seeds or from transplanted roots; and although roots +are extremely sensitive when moved, success can, as a rule, be insured +by special care and prompt action, assuming that the proper time of year +is chosen for the operation. The advantage of using roots is the saving +of time, and in most gardens this is an important consideration. +Fortunately roots may be planted almost as safely when two or three +years old as at one year.</p> + +<p><b>Soil.</b>—Asparagus will grow in any soil that is well cultivated; a deep +rich sandy loam being especially suitable. Calcareous soil is by no +means unfavourable to Asparagus; still, a sand rich in humus is not the +less to be desired, as the finest samples of European growth are the +produce of the districts around Paris and Brussels. The London +Asparagus, which is prized by many for its full flavour and tenderness, +is for the most part grown near at hand, in deep alluvial soils enriched +with abundance of manure. Nature gives us the key to every secret that +concerns our happiness, and on the cultivation of Asparagus she is +liberal in her teaching. The plant is found growing wild on the sandy +coasts of the British Islands—a proof that it loves sand and salt.</p> + +<p><b>Preparation of Ground.</b>—The routine cultivation must begin with a +thorough preparation of the ground. Efficient drainage is imperative, +for stagnant water in the subsoil is fatal to the plant. But a rich loam +does not need the extravagant manuring that has been recommended and +practised. Deep digging and, where the subsoil is good, trenching may be +recommended, but an average manuring will suffice, because Asparagus can +be effectually aided by annual top-dressings, and proper surface culture +is of great importance in the subsequent stages. It is necessary to +choose an open spot for <a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>the plantation. Preparation of the ground +should commence in the autumn and be continued through the winter, a +heavy dressing of half-rotten stable manure being put on in the first +instance, and trenched in two feet deep. In the course of a month the +whole piece should be trenched back. If labour is at command a third +trenching may be done with advantage, and the surface may be left ridged +up until the time arrives to level it for seeding. It will be obvious +that this routine is of a somewhat costly character, but we are +supposing the plantation is to remain for many years, making an abundant +return for the first investment. Still we are bound to say that a +capital supply for a moderate table may be obtained by preparing a piece +of good ground in an open situation in a quite ordinary manner with one +deep digging in winter, adding at the time some six inches or so of fat +stable manure, and leaving it thus until the time arrives for sowing the +seed. Then it will be well to level down and point in, half a spade +deep, a thin coat of decayed manure to make a nice kindly seed-bed.</p> + +<p>Where soil known to be unsuitable, such as a damp clay or pasty loam, +has to be prepared for Asparagus, it will be found an economical +practice to remove the top spit, which we will suppose to be turf or old +cultivated soil, and on the space so cleared make up a bed of the best +possible materials at command. Towards this mixture there is the top +spit just referred to. Add any available lime rubbish from destroyed +buildings, sand, peat, leaf-mould, surface soil raked from the rear of +the shrubberies, &c., and the result should be a good compost obtained +at an almost nominal cost.</p> + +<p><b>Size of Bed, and Sowing Seed.</b>—At this juncture several questions of +considerable importance arise. And first, whether the crop shall be +grown on the flat or in raised beds. Where the soil is sufficiently +deep, and the drainage perfect, the flat system answers well. The +advantages of raised beds are that they deepen the soil, assist the +drainage, promote warmth, and thus aid the growth of an early crop. In +fact, raised beds render it possible to grow Asparagus on soils from +which this vegetable could not otherwise be obtained. The preparation is +the same in either case, and therefore we shall make no further allusion +to flat beds, but leave those to adopt them who find their soil and +requirements suitable. Now comes the question of distance, on which +depends the width of the beds. The first point may be settled by the +measure of the plant, and the second by the measure of the man. Monster +sticks are valued at some tables, and we shall refer to these later on, +<a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>but an abundant crop of handsome, though not abnormal, Asparagus meets +the requirements of most households. After many experiments, we have +come to the conclusion that the best mode of insuring a full return of +really good sticks, with the least amount of labour, is to lay out the +land in three-feet beds, with two-feet alleys between. In some +instances, no doubt, five-feet beds, containing three rows of roots, one +down the middle and one on each side at a distance of eighteen inches, +are preferable. For the majority of gardens, however, the three-feet bed +is a distinct advantage, were it only for the fact that all excuse for +putting a foot on the bed is avoided. On this narrow bed only two rows +of plants will be necessary. Put down the line at nine inches from the +edge on both sides, and at intervals of fifteen inches in the rows +dibble holes two inches deep, dropping two or three seeds in each. This +will give a distance between the rows of eighteen inches. In very strong +land, heavily manured, the holes may be eighteen inches apart instead of +fifteen. April is the right month for sowing.</p> + +<p><b>Thinning.</b>—When the ‘grass’ from seeds has grown about six inches +high, only the strongest plant must be left at each station, and they +should finally stand at a distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in the +row. Much of the injury reported to follow from close planting has been +the result of carelessness in thinning. The young plant is such a +slender, delicate thing, that, to the thoughtless operator, it seems +folly to thin down to one only. The consequence is that two or three, or +perhaps half a dozen, plants are left at each station to ‘fight it out,’ +and these become so intermixed as to appear to be one, though really +many, and of course amongst them they produce more shoots than can be +fed properly by the limited range of their roots. Severe, or may we say +mathematical, thinning is a <i>sine quâ non</i>, and it requires sharp eyes +and careful fingers; but it must be done if the Asparagus beds are to +become, as they should be, the pride of the Kitchen Garden.</p> + +<p><b>Blanching.</b>—The grave question of white <i>versus</i> green Asparagus we +cannot entertain, except so far as concerns the cultivator only. On the +point of taste, therefore, we say nothing; and it is a mere matter of +management whether the sticks are blanched to the very tip, or allowed +to become green for some few inches. Blanching is effected in various +ways. The heaping up of soft soil, such as leaf-mould, will accomplish +it. On the Continent many contrivances are resorted to, such as covering +the heads with wooden or earthen pipes. In a few districts in France +champagne-bottles with the bottoms <a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>cut away are employed. But a strong +growth being secured, the cultivator will find it an easy matter to +regulate the degree of colour according to the requirements of the table +he has to serve. As a rule, a moderately stout growth, with a fair show +of purple colour, is everywhere appreciated, and is the easiest to +produce, because the most natural.</p> + +<p>There is, however, an interesting point in connection with the +production of green Asparagus, and it is that if wintry weather prevails +when the heads are rising (as unfortunately is often the case) the +tender green tops may be melted by frost and become worthless, or may be +rendered so tough as to place the quality below that of blanched +Asparagus; for the blanching is also a protective process, and quickly +grown white Asparagus is often more tender and tasty than that which is +green, but has been grown slowly. As the season advances and the heads +rise rapidly the green Asparagus acquires its proper flavour and +tenderness, and thus practical considerations should more or less +influence final decisions on matters of taste. The business of the +cultivator is to produce the kind of growth that is required, whether +white or green, or of a quality intermediate between the two. This is +easily done, making allowance for conditions. When green Asparagus is +alone in demand, the cultivator may be advised to have in readiness, as +the heads are making their first show, a sufficient supply of some rough +and cheap protecting material, such as grass and coarse weeds, cut with +a sickle from odd corners of the shrubbery and meadow land, or clean hay +and straw perfectly free from mildew; but for obvious reasons stable +litter should not be used. A very light sprinkling of material over an +Asparagus bed that is making a first show of produce will ward off the +morning frosts, and amply compensate for the little trouble in saving +many tender green sticks that the frosts would melt to a jelly and +render worthless. After the second or third week in May the litter may +be removed if needful; but if appearances are of secondary importance, +it may be left to shrink away on the spot.</p> + +<p><b>Cutting.</b>—Asparagus as supplied by market growers is needlessly long +in the stem. The bundles have an imposing appearance, no doubt, but the +useless length adds nothing to the comfort of those at table, and is a +wasteful tax on the energy of the plant. For home consumption it will +generally suffice if the white portion is about four inches long, and +this determines the depth at which the sticks should be cut. Here it may +be useful to remark that deeply buried roots do not thrive so well as +those which are nearer the surface, nor do they <a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>produce such early +crops. The sticks are usually cut by thrusting down a stiff +narrow-pointed knife, or specially made saw, close to each shoot; and it +is necessary to do this with judgment, or adjacent shoots, which are not +sufficiently advanced to reveal their presence by lifting the soil, may +be damaged. To avoid this risk of injury by the knife it is possible +from some beds to obtain the sticks without the aid of any implement by +a twist and pull combined, but the process needs a dexterous hand and is +impracticable in tenacious soils. The sticks of a handsome sample will +be white four or five inches of their length; the tops close, plump, of +a purplish-green colour, and the colour extending two or at most three +inches down the stems. Both size and degree of colouring are, however, +so entirely questions of taste that no definite rule can be stated. It +is more to the purpose to say that, if liberally grown, the plant may be +cut from in the third year; and that cutting should cease about the +middle of June, or early in July, according to the district. For the +good of the plant the sooner cutting ceases the better, as the next +year’s buds have to be formed in the roots by the aid of the top-growth +of the current season.</p> + +<p><b>Weeding and Staking.</b>—Two other points relating to the general +management are worthy of attention. Some crops get on fairly well when +neglected and crowded with weeds. Not so with Asparagus. The plant +appears to have been designed to enjoy life in solitude, being unfit for +competition; and if weeds make way in an Asparagus bed, the cultivator +will pay a heavy penalty for his neglect of duty. The limitation of the +beds to a width of three feet, therefore, is of consequence, because it +facilitates weeding without putting a foot on them. The other point +arises out of the necessity of affording support to the frail plant in +places where it may happen to be exposed to wind. When Asparagus in high +summer is rudely shaken, the stems snap off at the base, and the roots +lose the service of the top-growth in maturing buds for the next season. +To prevent this injury is easy enough, but the precautions must be +adopted in good time. A free use of light, feathery stakes, such as are +employed for the support of Peas, thrust in firmly all over the bed, +will insure all needful support when gales are blowing. In the absence +of pea-sticks, stout stakes, placed at suitable distances and connected +with lengths of thick tarred twine, will answer equally well. In +sheltered gardens the protection of the young growth with litter, and of +the mature growth with stakes, need not be resorted to, but in exposed +situations these precautions should not be neglected.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a><b>Manuring Permanent Beds.</b>—The management of Asparagus includes a +careful clean-up of the beds in autumn. The plants should not be cut +down until they change colour; then all the top-growth may be cleared +away and the surface raked clean. Give the beds a liberal dressing of +half-decayed manure, and carefully touch up the sides to make them neat +and tidy. It is usual at the same time to dig and manure the alleys, but +this practice we object to <i>in toto</i>, because it tends directly to the +production of lean sticks where fat ones are possible; for the roots run +freely in the alleys, and to dig is to destroy them. In the spring clear +the beds of the autumn dressing by raking any remnant of manure into the +alleys, and the beds and the alleys should then be carefully pricked +over with a fork two or three inches deep only, and with great care not +to wound any roots.</p> + +<p>The application of salt requires judgment. For a time it renders the bed +cold, and when followed by snow the two combine to make a freezing +mixture which arrests the growth of established plants. On a newly made +bed salt is unnecessary, and may prove destructive to the roots. The +proper time for applying salt must be determined by the district and the +character of the season; but in no case should the mineral be used until +active growth has commenced, although it is not needful to wait until +the growth is visible above the surface. In the southern counties a +suitable opportunity may generally be found from the beginning to the +middle of April. Second and third dressings may follow at intervals of +three weeks, which not only stimulate the roots but keep down weeds.</p> + +<p><b>Planting Roots.</b>—In many gardens where there is space for two or three +beds only there will be the very natural desire to secure Asparagus in a +shorter time than is possible from seed, and we therefore proceed to +indicate the best method of planting roots. Asparagus roots do not take +kindly to removal, especially old and established plants. The mere +drying of the roots by exposure to the atmosphere is distinctly +injurious to them. They will travel safely a long distance when well +packed, but the critical time is between the unpacking and getting them +safely into their final home. Everything should be made ready for the +transfer before the package is opened, and the actual task of planting +should be accomplished in the shortest time possible.</p> + +<p>A three-feet bed should be prepared by taking out the soil in such a +manner as to leave two ridges for the roots. The space between ridges to +be eighteen inches, and the tops of the ridges to be so far below the +level of the bed that when the soil is returned, <a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>and the bed made to +its normal level, the crowns will be about five inches beneath the +surface. This may be understood from the following illustration of a +section cut across the bed.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/001.jpg" width="600" height="121" alt="[Illustration: bedlayout]" /> +</div> + +<p>A, A represent the alleys between the beds, and B the top of one bed. +The dotted lines show the ridges on which the roots are to rest at C, C. +When the bed is ready, open the package and place the Asparagus on the +ridges at fifteen or eighteen inches apart, allowing about half the +roots of each plant to fall down on either side of the ridge. As a rule +it will be wise to have two pairs of hands engaged in the task. The soil +should be filled in expeditiously, and a finishing touch be given to the +bed. Very rarely will it be safe to transplant Asparagus until the end +of March or beginning of April, for although established roots will pass +unharmed through a very severe winter, those which have recently been +removed are often killed outright by a lengthened period of cold wet +weather, and especially by thawed snow followed by frost.</p> + +<p><b>Giant Asparagus.</b>—Some of the most critical judges of Asparagus in the +country are extremely partial to giant sticks. Their preference is not +based on mere superiority in size, but on the special flavour which is +the peculiar merit of these extra-large Asparagus when they are properly +grown. Although there is no difficulty whatever in producing them, it +must be admitted that to insure specimens weighing nearly or quite half +a pound, plenty of space must be allowed for the full development of +each plant and a prodigal use of manure is imperative. Where drainage is +effectual, the soil of any well-tilled garden can be made suitable. The +roots may be grown in clumps or in rows. Clumps are planted in +triangular form, two feet being allowed between the three plants of each +group, with a distance of five feet between the groups. The more usual +method, however, is to plant in rows. In both cases the cultural details +are almost identical, and to obtain the finest results it is wise to get +the preparatory work done at convenient times in advance of the planting +season. Assuming that rows are decided on, commence operations by +digging a broad deep trench, throwing out the soil to the right and left +to form sloping sides until there is a perpendicular depth of +<a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>twenty-seven inches from the top of the ridge. About one foot of +prepared soil should be placed in the bottom of the trench. This may be +composed of such material as the trimmings of hedges, sweepings of +shrubberies, twigs from a faggot pile, wood ashes and leaf-mould. The +constituents must to some extent depend on the materials at command. +What is wanted is a light compost, consisting almost wholly of vegetable +matter in a more or less advanced state of decomposition. Add three or +four inches of rich loam, and on this, at the beginning of April, plant +strong one-year roots of a robust-growing variety. Between the plants it +is customary to allow a space of at least two feet, and some growers put +them a full yard apart. Cover the crowns with three inches of rich soil, +previously mixed with manure and laid up for the purpose. The second and +following rows are to be treated in the same way, and the work must be +so managed that an equal distance of four and a half or five feet is +left between the rows. When the foliage dies down in autumn, a layer of +fertile loam mixed with rotten manure should be spread over the surface. +In the succeeding spring remove just the top crust of soil and give a +thick dressing of decayed manure alone, upon which the soil can be +restored. During the autumn of the second year the furrow must be filled +with horse manure for the winter. Remove this manure in March, and +substitute good loam containing a liberal admixture of decayed manure +previously incorporated with the soil. The slight ridges that remain can +then be levelled down. By this treatment large handsome sticks of +Asparagus may be cut in the third year. To maintain the plants in a high +state of efficiency, it must be clearly understood that forcing with +horse manure will be necessary every subsequent year. Blanching may be +carried out by any of the usual methods, and Sea Kale pots are both +convenient and effectual. Not a weed should be visible on the beds at +any time.</p> + +<p><b>Forcing</b> is variously practised, and the best possible system, +doubtless, is to force in the beds, and thereby train the plants to +their work so that they become used to it. The growers who supply Paris +with forced Asparagus produce the white sample in the beds, and the +green by removal of the roots to frames. Forcing in beds may be +accomplished by means of trenches filled with fermenting material or by +hot-water pipes, the beds in either case being covered with frames. +Where the demand for forced Asparagus is constant, there can be no doubt +the hot-water system is the cheapest as well as the cleanest and most +reliable; for a casual supply forcing in frames <a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>answers very well, but +it is attended with the disadvantage that when the crop has been secured +the roots are worthless. The practice of forcing may be said to commence +with the formation of the seed-bed, for if it is to be carried on in a +systematic and profitable manner, every detail must be provided for in +the original arrangements. The width of the beds and of the alleys, and +the disposition of the plants, will have to be carefully considered, so +as to insure the best results of a costly procedure, and it will be +waste of time to begin forcing until the plants have attained their +fourth year. The rough method of market growers consists in the +employment of hot manure in trenches, and also on the beds, after the +frames are put on. The beds are usually four feet wide, the alleys two +feet wide and twenty inches deep, and the plants not more than nine +inches apart in the row, there being three or four rows of plants in the +bed. The frames are put on when forcing commences, but the lights are +withheld until the shoots begin to appear. Then the fermenting material +is removed from the beds, the lights are put on, and no air is given, +mats being added in cold weather, both to retain warmth and promote +blanching. This method produces a fair market sample, but a much better +growth may be obtained by a good hot-water system, as will be understood +from a momentary consideration of details. By the employment of +fermenting material the temperature runs up rapidly, sometimes +extravagantly, so that it is no uncommon event for the growth to +commence at 70° to 80° Fahr., which may produce a handsome sample, but +it will be flavourless. The hot-water system allows of perfect control, +and the prudent grower will begin at 50°, rise slowly to 60°, and take +care not to exceed 65°; the result will be a sample full of flavour, +with a finer appearance than the best obtainable by the rougher method.</p> + +<p>Forcing in frames is systematically practised in many gardens, and as it +exhausts the roots there must be a corresponding production of roots for +the purpose. The first requisite is a good lasting hotbed, covered with +about four inches of light soil of any kind, but preferably leaf-mould. +The roots are carefully lifted and planted as closely as possible on +this bed, and covered with fine soil to a depth of six inches. The +sashes are then put on and kept close; but a little air may be given as +the heads rise, to promote colour and flavour. The heat will generally +run to 70°, and that figure should be the maximum allowed. Experienced +growers prefer to force at 60° or 65°, and to take a little more time +for the advantage of a finer sample.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a><b>BROAD BEAN</b></p> + +<p><b>Faba vulgaris</b></p> + +<p>The Broad Bean is a thrifty plant, as hardy as any in the garden, and +very accommodating as to soil. It is quite at home on heavy land, but in +common with nearly all other vegetables it thrives on a deep sandy loam. +Considering the productive nature of the plant and its comparatively +brief occupation of the ground, the common Bean must be regarded as one +of our most profitable garden crops. Both the Longpod and Windsor +classes should be grown. For general work the Longpods are invaluable; +they are early, thoroughly hardy, produce heavy crops, and in appearance +and flavour satisfy the world at large, as may be proved by appeal to +the markets. The Windsor Beans are especially prized for their superior +quality, being tender, full of flavour, and, if well managed, most +tempting in colour when put upon the table.</p> + +<p><b>For early crops</b> the Longpods claim attention, and sowings may be made +towards the end of October or during November on a dry soil in a warm +situation, sheltered from the north. Choose a dry day for the operation. +On no account should the attempt be made while the soil conditions are +unfavourable, even if the sowing is thereby deferred for some time. The +distance must depend upon the sorts, but two feet will answer generally +as the distance between the double rows; the two lines forming the +double rows may be nine inches apart, and the seed two inches deep. On +strong ground a distance of three feet can be allowed between the double +rows, but it is not well to give overmuch space, because the plants +protect each other somewhat, and earliness of production is the matter +of chief moment. Thoroughly consolidate the soil to encourage sturdy +hard growth which will successfully withstand the excessive moisture and +cold of winter. It is an excellent practice to prepare a piece of good +ground sloping to the south, and on this to make a plantation in +February of plants carefully lifted from the seed rows, wherever they +can be spared as proper thinnings. These should be put in double rows, +three feet apart. If transplanted with care they will receive but a +slight check, and will give a successional supply.</p> + +<p><b>Main Crops.</b>—Another sowing may be made towards the end of January, +but for the main crop wait until February or March. For succession crops +sowings may be made until mid-April, after which time there is risk of +failure, especially on hot soils. A strong soil is <a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>suitable, and +generally speaking a heavy crop of Beans may be taken from a +well-managed clay. But any deep cool soil will answer, and where there +is a regular demand for Beans the cultivator may be advised to grow both +Longpods and Windsors—the first for earliness and bulk, the second for +quality. The double rows of maincrop Beans should be fully three feet +apart, and the plants quite nine inches apart in the rows. The +preparation of the seed-bed must be of a generous nature. Where grass +land or land of questionable quality is broken up and trenched, it will +be tolerably safe to crop it with Beans as a first start; and to prepare +it for the crop a good body of fat stable manure should be laid in +between the first and second spits, as this will carry the crop through, +while insuring to the subsoil that has been brought up a time of +seasoning with the least risk of any consequent loss.</p> + +<p>There is not much more to be said about growing Beans; the ground must +be kept clean, and the hoe will have its work here as elsewhere. The +pinching out of the tops as soon as there is a fair show of blossom is a +good plan, whether fly is visible or not, and it is also advisable to +root out all plants as fast as they finish their work, for if left they +throw up suckers and exhaust the soil. The gathering of the crop is +often so carelessly performed that the supply is suddenly arrested.</p> + +<p><b>Sowings under Glass.</b>—In an emergency, Beans may be started in pots in +the greenhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in precisely +the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is convenient in +cases where heavy water-logged ground precludes outdoor sowing in autumn +and early spring. In all such cases care must be taken that the forcing +is of the most moderate character, or the crop will be poor and late, +instead of being plentiful and early. When pushed on under glass for +planting out, the young stock must have as much light and air as +possible consistent with safety, and a slow healthy growth will better +answer the purpose than a rapid growth producing long legs and pale +leaves, because the physique of infancy determines in a great degree +that of maturity, not less in plants than in animals.</p> + + +<p><b>DWARF FRENCH BEAN</b></p> + +<p><b>Phaseolus vulgaris</b></p> + +<p>Among summer vegetables Dwarf French Beans are deservedly in high +favour, and are everywhere sown at the earliest moment consistent <a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>with +reasonable expectations of their safety. This early sowing is altogether +laudable, for although it occasionally entails the loss of a plantation, +the aggregate result is advantageous, and a very little protection +suffices to carry the early plant through the late spring frosts. But +those who supply our tables with green delicacies do not all recognise +the importance of late sowings of Dwarf Beans. Here, again, a risk must +be incurred, but the cost is trifling, and when the summer is prolonged +to October the late-sown Beans are highly prized. Even if they produce +plentifully through September there is a great point gained, but that +cannot be secured from the earliest sowings; it is impossible. After +July it is useless to sow Beans, but where the demand is constant, two +or three sowings may be made in this month, choosing the most sheltered +nooks that can be found for them. For late sowings the earliest sorts +should have preference.</p> + +<p>Dwarf Beans for main crops require a good though somewhat light soil; +but any fairly productive loam will answer the purpose, and the crop +will yield an ample return for such reasonable digging and dressing as a +careful cultivator will not fail to bestow. At the same time, it is a +matter of some practical importance that the poorest land ever put under +tillage will, in an average season, yield serviceable crops of these +legumes, and on a rich soil of some depth the Dwarf Bean will endure +summer drought better than any other crop in the Kitchen Garden. +Earliness of production is of the highest importance up to a certain +point; but an early crop being provided for, abundance of production +next claims consideration, the heaviest bearers being of course best +adapted for main-crop sowing. As regards the sowing and general culture, +it is too often true that Dwarf Beans are crowded injuriously, even in +gardens that are usually well managed. Nothing is gained by crowding. On +the contrary, loss always ensues when the individual plant, through +deficiency of space, is hindered in its full development.</p> + +<p><b>For early crops</b> which are eventually to come to maturity in the open +ground, the first sowings may be made in the month of April, either in +boxes in a gentle heat, or better still in a frame on a sunny border +without artificial heat. In districts where frost frequently prevails in +May, and on heavy soils where early sowings outdoors are impracticable +in a wet spring, the forwarding of plants under glass is very desirable, +but the actual date for sowing must depend on local conditions. The +tender growth that is produced by a forcing process is not well adapted +for planting out in May; but <a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>a plant produced slowly, with plenty of +light and air, will be stout and strong, and if put out with care as +soon as mild weather occurs in May, will make good progress and yield an +early crop. The seed for this purpose should be sown in rather light +turfy soil, as the plants may then be lifted without injury to their +fleshy roots. Careful treatment will be desirable for some time after +they are planted, such as protection from sun and frost, and watering, +if necessary, although the less watering the better, provided the plants +can hold their ground. The plot to which these early sowings are to be +transplanted should be light and rich, and lying towards the sun; open +the lines with the spade or hoe in preference to using the dibber, and +as fast as the roots are dropped into their places with their balls of +earth unbroken, carefully restore the fine soil from the surface. Rough +handling will seriously interfere with the ultimate result, but ordinary +care will insure abundant gatherings of first-class produce at a time +when there are but few in the market. On dry soils a small sowing may be +made about the second week of April on a sheltered south border. Sow in +double rows six inches apart, and allow a distance of two feet between +the double rows. When the seedlings appear give protection if necessary, +and in due course thin the plants to six inches apart in the rows.</p> + +<p><b>Main crops</b> are sown from the last week in April to the middle of June. +The distance for the rows may be from one and a half to two feet apart, +according to the vigour of the variety, the strongest growers requiring +fully two feet, and the distance between the plants may be eight to +twelve inches; therefore it is well to sow the seed two to three inches +apart, and thin out as soon as the rough leaves appear. The ground being +in fairly good condition, it will only be necessary to chop over the +surface, if at all lumpy, and with the hoe draw drills about two inches +deep, which is far better than dibbling, except on very light soil, when +dibbling about three inches deep is quite allowable. Generally speaking, +if the plot be kept clean, the Beans will take care of themselves; but +in droughty weather a heavy watering now and then will be visibly +beneficial, for although the plant bears drought well, it is like other +good things in requiring something to live upon. In exposed situations +and where storms are prevalent, it is an excellent practice to support +the plants with bushy twigs.</p> + +<p><b>Late Crops.</b>—To extend the outdoor supply sowings may be made early in +July. When the ground has become dry and hard, it is advisable to soak +the seed in water for five or six hours; the drills <a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>should also be +watered, and, if possible, the ground should be covered with rotten +dung, spent hops, or some other mulchy stuff to promote and sustain +vegetation.</p> + +<p><b>The gathering of the crop</b> should be a matter of discipline. Where it +is done carelessly, there will very soon be none to gather, for the +swelling of a few seeds in neglected pods will cause the plants to cease +bearing. Therefore all the Beans should be gathered when of a proper +size, whether they are wanted or not; this is the only way to insure a +long-continued supply of good quality both as to colour and tenderness.</p> + +<p><b>Autumn, Winter and Spring Supplies.</b>—By successional sowings under +glass a continuous supply of Beans may be obtained through autumn, +winter, and spring. The earliest sowings should be made at fortnightly +intervals, from mid-July to mid-September, in cold frames filled with +well-manured soil. Put in the seeds two inches deep and six inches +apart, in rows one foot apart. Water copiously during the hot months and +give protection when the nights become cold. After mid-September crops +of dwarf-growing varieties should be raised in heated pits, or in pots +placed in a warm temperature. In pits the beds should be one foot deep, +the drills one foot apart, and the plants six inches asunder in the +rows. When pots are used the ten-inch size will be found most +convenient. Only three-parts fill the pots with a good compost, and +insure perfect drainage. Place eight or nine beans one and a half inches +deep in each pot, eventually reducing the number of plants to five. As +the plants progress soil may be added to within an inch and a half of +the rims. Air-giving and watering will need careful management, for the +most robust growth possible is required, but there must be no chill, and +any excess of either moisture or dryness will be immediately injurious. +When a few pods are formed feed the plants with alternate applications +of soot water and liquid manure, commencing with highly diluted doses. +Thoroughly syringe the plants twice daily to combat Red Spider. At night +a temperature of from 55° to 60° must be maintained. In mid-February +sowings may be made in frames in which six inches of fertile soil has +been placed over a good layer of litter or leaves. From these sowings +heavy crops may be secured in spring and early summer before the outdoor +supplies are ready.</p> + +<p><b>Flageolets</b> is the name given to the seeds of certain types of Dwarf +and Climbing Beans when used in a state intermediate between the green +pods (<i>Haricots verts</i>) and the fully ripe seeds<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a> (<i>Haricots secs</i>), and +they are strongly to be recommended for culinary purposes. The use of +Bean seeds as <i>Flageolets</i>, although so little known in this country, is +very largely practised abroad, and in the vegetable markets of many +French towns the shelling of the beans from the semi-ripe pods by women, +in readiness for cooking in the manner of green peas, is a very familiar +sight. The seeds of almost all varieties are suitable for use in this +way, irrespective of colour, as this is not developed as would be the +case if the seeds were quite ripe.</p> + + +<p><b>CLIMBING FRENCH BEAN</b></p> + +<p>The Climbing French Bean has all the merits of the Dwarf French Bean, +and the climbing habit not only extends the period of bearing but +results in a yield such as cannot be obtained from the most prolific +strains in the Dwarf section. Although the modern Climbing Bean is less +vigorous in growth than the ordinary Runner, the former may generally be +had in bearing before the most forward crop of Runners is ready. For an +early supply out of doors seed should be sown under glass in April, in +the manner advised for early crops of the Dwarf class. Gradually harden +off the plants and transfer to permanent quarters on the first +favourable opportunity. In the open ground successive sowings may be +made from the end of April to June. The outdoor culture of Climbing +French Beans is practically the same as for the Dwarf varieties, except +that the former are usually grown in double rows about four to five feet +apart. Allow the plants to stand finally at nine to twelve inches each +way, and support them with bushy sticks such as are used for Peas, for +Climbing Beans will run far more readily on these than on single sticks.</p> + +<p>The Climbing French Bean is especially useful for producing crops under +glass in spring and autumn, and the plants do well when grown in narrow +borders with the vines trained close to the roof-glass by means of wire +or string to which the growth readily clings. The general treatment may +be much the same as that recommended for the Dwarf varieties, special +care being taken with regard to watering and the giving of air. During +the autumn months atmospheric moisture must be cautiously regulated or +much of the foliage will damp off, while in spring a humid atmosphere +should be maintained and systematic watering practised. Cucumber, Melon, +and Tomato beds from which the crops have been cleared may <a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>often be +used to advantage for raising a crop of Climbing Beans, and generally +these beds are in excellent condition for the plants without the +addition of manure.</p> + + +<p><b>HARICOT BEAN</b></p> + +<p>Although in France the term <i>Haricot</i> is given to all types of Beans, +except those of the English Broad Bean, in this country the word +<i>Haricot</i> is generally applied only to the dried seeds of certain Dwarf +and Climbing Beans, notably those which are white. Almost any variety, +however, may be used as <i>Haricots</i>, but the most popular are those which +produce self-coloured seeds, such as white, green, and the various +shades of brown. Seed should be sown early in May and the plants treated +as advised for French Beans. The pods should not be removed from the +plants until the seeds are thoroughly ripe. If ripening cannot be +completed in the open, pull up the plants and hang them in a shed until +the seeds are quite dry.</p> + + +<p><b>RUNNER BEAN</b></p> + +<p><b>Phaseolus multiflorus</b></p> + +<p>Runner beans need generous cultivation and will amply repay for the most +liberal treatment. The main point to be borne in mind is that the plant +possesses the most extensive root-system of any garden vegetable. Deep +digging and liberal manuring are therefore essential where the +production of the finest crops is aimed at. If possible the whole of the +ground to be allotted to Runners should be deeply tilled and well +manured in autumn or winter. But where this is inconvenient, trenching +must be carried out in March or early April. Remove the soil to a depth +of two feet, and the trench may be two feet wide for a double row of +Beans. Thoroughly break up the subsoil, half-fill the trench with +well-rotted manure, and restore the surface soil to within a few inches +of the level.</p> + +<p><b>Time of Sowing.</b>—It is seldom advisable to sow Runners in the open +before the month of May is fairly in, for they are less hardy than Dwarf +Beans, but as late supplies are everywhere valued it is important to sow +again in June. Of course these late crops are subject to the caprices of +autumnal weather, although they often continue in bearing until quite +late in the season. In districts where spring frosts are destructive, +and on cold soils or in very exposed situations, plants may be raised in +boxes for transferring to the open <a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>ground, as advised for Dwarf Beans, +but in the case of Runners allow a space of three inches between the +seeds.</p> + +<p><b>Distances for Rows, &c.</b>—Frequently the rows of Runner Beans are +injuriously close, and the total crop is thereby diminished. On deep, +well-prepared soils, single rows generally prove most productive, and +they should be not less than five feet apart. But where the soil is +shallow and generous preparation is not possible, and in wind-swept +positions, double rows, set nine inches apart, are more satisfactory. +Between the double rows allow a space of from six to eight feet, on +which Cauliflower, Lettuce, or other small-growing subjects may be +planted out. Two inches is the proper depth for putting in the seed, and +it is a wise policy to sow liberally and eventually to thin the plants +to a distance of from nine to twelve inches apart in the rows.</p> + +<p><b>Staking.</b>—It will always pay to give support by stakes, but where +these are not available wire netting or strands of stout string make +efficient substitutes. Immediately the plants are a few inches high, +insert the sticks on either side of the rows and tie them firmly to the +horizontal stakes placed in the fork near to the top. The means of +support should be decided upon and erected in advance of planting out +Runners which have been raised in boxes, thus avoiding any risk of +injury to the roots.</p> + +<p>But Runners make a good return when kept low by topping, and without any +support whatever, a system adopted by many market gardeners. For this +method of culture space the plants one foot apart in single rows set +three feet apart. Pinch out the tips when the plants are eighteen inches +high and repeat the operation when a further eighteen inches of growth +has formed.</p> + +<p><b>General Cultivation.</b>—As slugs and snails are particularly partial to +the young plants, an occasional dusting of old soot, slaked lime, or any +gritty substance should be given to render the leaves unpalatable to +these pests. During drought copious watering of the rows is essential, +especially on shallow soils; spraying the plants in the evening with +soft water is also freely practised and this assists the setting of +flowers in dry weather. A mulch of decayed manure will prove of great +benefit to the plants and will prolong the period of bearing.</p> + +<p>In some gardens Runners are grown in groups running up rods tied +together at the top, and when these groups are arranged at regular +intervals on each side of a path, the result is extremely pleasing. This +mode of culture interferes to a very trifling extent <a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>with other crops, +and the ornamental effect may be enhanced by growing varieties which +have white, red, and bicolor flowers.</p> + +<p>Preserving the roots of Runners is sometimes recommended. We can only +say that it is a ridiculous proceeding. The utmost care is required to +keep the roots through the winter, and they are comparatively worthless +in the end. A pint of seed will give a better crop than a number of +roots that have cost great pains for their preservation.</p> + +<p><b>Runner Beans for Exhibition</b>.—Although fine specimens fit for +exhibition may frequently be gathered from the general garden crop, a +little extra attention to the cultivation of Runner Beans for show work +will be well repaid. When staged the pods must possess not only the +merit of mere size, but they should be perfect in shape and quite young. +Rapid as well as robust growth is therefore essential to success. Select +the strongest-growing plants in the rows, and for a few weeks before the +pods are wanted give alternate applications of liquid manure and clear +water. Pinch out all side growths, and limit the number of pods to two +in each cluster.</p> + + +<p><b>WAXPOD BEAN</b></p> + +<p>Many visitors to the Continent have learned to appreciate the fine +qualities of the Waxpod Beans, sometimes known as Butter Beans, the pods +of which are usually cooked whole. There are two types, the dwarf and +the runner, for which respectively the culture usual for Dwarf French +Beans and Runner Beans will be quite suitable.</p> + + +<p><b>GARDEN BEET</b></p> + +<p><b>Beta vulgaris</b></p> + +<p>As a food plant the Beet scarcely obtains the attention it deserves. +There is no lack of appreciation of its beauty for purposes of +garnishing, or of its flavour as the component of a salad; but other +uses to which it is amenable for the comfort and sustenance of man are +sometimes neglected. As a simple dish to accompany cold meats the Beet +is most acceptable. Dressed with vinegar and white pepper, it is at once +appetising, nutritive, and digestible. Served as fritters, it is by some +people preferred to Mushrooms, as it then resembles them in flavour, and +is more easily digested. It makes a first-rate pickle, and as an agent +in colouring it has a recognised <a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>value, because of the perfect +wholesomeness of the rich crimson hue it imparts to any article of food +requiring it.</p> + +<p><b>Frame Culture</b>.—Where the demand for Beet exists the whole year +through, early sowings in heat are indispensable. For this method of +cultivation the Globe variety should be employed, and two sowings, the +first in February and another in March, will generally provide a good +supply of roots in advance of the outdoor crops. Sow in drills on a +gentle hot-bed and thin the plants from six to nine inches apart in the +rows. As soon as the plants are large enough, give air at every suitable +opportunity. Fresh young Beets grown in this way find far more favour at +table than those which have been stored for several months. They are +also of great service for exhibition, especially in collections of early +vegetables.</p> + +<p><b>Preparation of Ground</b>.—The cultivation of Beet is of the most simple +nature, but a certain amount of care is requisite for the production of +a handsome and profitable crop. Beet will make a fair return on any soil +that is properly prepared for it; but to grow this root to perfection a +rich light loam is necessary, free from any trace of recent or strong +manure. A rank soil, or one to which manure has been added shortly +before sowing the seed, will produce ugly roots, some coarse with +overgrowth, others forked and therefore of little value, and others, +perhaps, cankered and worthless. The soil should be well prepared by +deep digging some time before making up the seed-bed, and it is sound +practice to grow Beet on plots that have been heavily manured in the +previous year for Cauliflower, Celery, or any other crop requiring good +cultivation. If the soil from an old Melon or Cucumber bed can be +spared, it may be spread over the land and dug in, and the piece should +be broken up in good time to become mellow before the seed is sown. +Seaweed is a capital manure for Beet, especially if laid at the bottom +of the trench when preparing the ground. A moderate dressing of salt may +be added with advantage, as the Beet is a seaside plant.</p> + +<p><b>Early Crops</b>.—Where frames are not available for providing early +supplies of Beetroot, forward crops may often be obtained from the open +ground by making sowings of the Globe variety from the end of March to +mid-April, in a sheltered position. Of course, the earlier the sowing +the greater the risk of destruction by frost, and birds may take the +seedlings. A double thickness of fish netting, however, stretched over +stakes about one foot above the soil, will afford protection from the +former and prevent the depredations of the latter. Set the drills about +twelve inches apart and sow the seed <a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>one and a half to two inches deep. +Thin the plants early and allow them to stand finally at nine inches in +the rows.</p> + +<p><b>Main Crop.</b>—The most important crop is that required for salading, for +which a deep-coloured Beet of rich flavour is to be preferred, and the +aim of the cultivator should be to obtain roots of moderate size and of +perfect shape and finish. The ground having been trenched two spades +deep early in the year, may be made up into four-and-a-half-feet beds +some time in March, preparatory to sowing the seed. The main sowing +should never be made until quite the end of April or beginning of May. +For a neat crop, sow in drills one and a half to two inches deep, and +spaced from twelve to fifteen inches apart. When finally thinned the +plants should stand about nine inches apart in the rows. Hand weeding +will have to follow soon after sowing, and perhaps the hoe may be +required to supplement the hand. The thinning should be commenced as +early as possible, but it is waste of time to plant the thinnings, and +it is equally waste of time to water the crop. In fact, if the ground is +well prepared, weeding and thinning comprise the whole remainder of the +cultivation.</p> + +<p>Some of the smaller and more delicate Beets, of a very dark colour, may +be sown in drills a foot or fifteen inches apart and thinned to six +inches distance in the drills. We have, indeed, lifted pretty crops of +the smaller Beets at four inches, but it is not prudent to crowd the +plants, as the result will be thin roots with long necks.</p> + +<p>On stony shallow soils, where it is difficult to grow handsome long +Beets, the Globe and Intermediate varieties may be tried with the +prospect of a satisfactory result. We have in hot seasons found these +most useful on a damp clay where fine specimens of long Beet were rarely +obtainable. From this same unkind clay it is possible to secure good +crops of long Beets, by making deep holes with a dibber a foot apart and +filling these with sandy stuff from the compost yard and sowing the seed +over them. It is a tedious process, but it benefits the land for the +next crop, and the Beets pay for it in the first instance.</p> + +<p><b>Late Crops.</b>—By sowing the Globe or Turnip-rooted varieties in July, +useful roots may be obtained during the autumn and winter. Space the +drills as advised for early crops. Seed may also with advantage be +thinly sown broadcast; the young plants will thus protect one another, +and the roots may be pulled as they mature.</p> + +<p><b>Lifting and Storing.</b>—A Beet crop may be left in the ground during the +winter if aided by a covering of litter during severe <a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>frost. But it is +safer out of the ground than in it, and the proper time to lift is when +a touch of autumn frost has been experienced. Dry earth or sand, in +sufficient quantity, should be ready for the storing, and a clamp in a +sheltered corner will answer if shed room is scarce. In any case, a dry +and cool spot is required, for damp will beget mildew, and warmth will +cause growth. In cutting off the tops before storing, take care not to +cut too near the crown, or injurious bleeding will follow. On the other +hand, the long fang-like roots may be shortened without harm, for the +slight bleeding that will occur at that end will not affect more than +the half-inch or so next to the cut part. A little experience will teach +anyone that Beets must be handled with care, or the goodness will run +out of them. Many cooks bake Beets because boiling so often spoils them; +but if they are in no way cut or bruised, and are plunged into boiling +water and kept boiling for a sufficient length of time—half an hour to +two hours, according to size—there will be but a trifling difference +between boiling and baking.</p> + +<p><b>The Silver, or Sea Kale, Beet</b> is grown principally for the stalk and +the midrib of the leaf, considered by some to be equal to Asparagus. In +a rank soil, with plenty of liquid manure, the growth is quick, robust, +and the plant of good quality, without the necessity of earthing up. Sow +in April and May, thinly in drills, and allow the plants eventually to +stand at about fifteen inches apart each way. The leaves should be +pulled, not cut. As the stalks often turn black in cooking, it is +advisable to add a few drops of lemon-juice to the water in which they +are boiled, and, of course, soda should never be used. They should be +served up in the same manner as Asparagus. The remainder of the leaf is +dressed as Spinach.</p> + + +<p><b>BORECOLE, or KALE</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea acephala</b></p> + +<p>The Borecoles or Kales are indispensable for the supply of winter +vegetables, and their importance becomes especially manifest when severe +frost has made general havoc in the Kitchen Garden. Then it is seen that +the hardier Borecoles are proof against the lowest temperature +experienced in these islands; and, while frost leaves the plants +unharmed, it improves the tops and side sprouts that are required for +table purposes.</p> + +<p>As regards soil, the Borecoles are the least particular of the whole +<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>race of Brassicas. They appear to be capable of supplying the table +with winter greens even when grown on hard rocky soil, but good loam +suits them admirably, and a strong clay, well tilled, will produce a +grand sample. Granting, then, that a good soil is better than a bad one, +we urge the sowing of seed as early as possible for insuring to the +plant a long season of growth. But early sowing should be followed by +early planting, for it is bad practice to leave the plants crowded in +the seed-bed until the summer is far advanced. This, however, is often +unavoidable, and it is well to consider in time where the plants are to +go, and when, according to averages, the ground will be vacant to +receive them. The first sowing may be made early in March, and another +in the middle of April. These two sowings will suffice for almost all +the purposes that can be imagined. A good seed-bed in an open spot is +absolutely necessary. It is usual to draw direct from the seed-bed for +planting out as opportunities occur, and this method answers fairly +well. But when large enough it is better practice to prick out as a +preparation for the final planting, because a stouter and handsomer +plant is thereby secured. If it is intended to follow the rough and +ready plan, the seed drills should be nine inches apart; but for +pricking out six inches will answer, and thus a very small bed will +provide a lot of plants. When pricked out, the plants should be six +inches apart each way, and they should go to final quarters as soon as +the leaves touch one another. On the flat, a fair distance between +Borecoles is two feet apart each way, but some vigorous kinds in good +ground will pay for another foot of space, and will yield enormous crops +when their time arrives. Transplanting is usually done in June and July, +and in many gardens Kales are planted between the rows of second-early +or maincrop Potatoes. The work should be done during showery weather if +possible, but these Brassicas have an astonishing degree of vitality. If +put out during drought very little water is required to start them, and +as the cool weather returns they will grow with vigour. But good +cultivation saves a plant from extreme conditions; and it is an +excellent practice to dig in green manure when preparing ground for +Kales, because a free summer growth is needful to the formation of a +stout productive plant.</p> + +<p>We have suggested that two sowings may be regarded as generally +sufficient, but we are bound to take notice of the fact that the late +supplies of these vegetables are sometimes disappointing. In a mild +winter the Kales reserved for use in spring will be likely to grow when +they should stand still, and at the first break of pleasant <a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>spring +weather they will bolt, very much to the vexation of those who expected +many a basket of sprouts from them. A May sowing planted out in a cold +place may stand without bolting until spring is somewhat advanced. Kale +of the ‘Asparagus’ type, such as Sutton’s Favourite, will often prove +successful when sown as late as July.</p> + +<p>As regards the varieties, they agree pretty nearly in constitution, +although they differ much in appearance and in the power of resisting +the excitement of spring weather. But in this section of vegetables +there are a few very interesting subjects. The Variegated and Crested +Kales are extremely ornamental and eminently useful in large places for +decorative purposes. These do not require so rich a soil as Sutton’s A1 +or Curled Scotch, and they must have the fullest exposure to bring out +their peculiarities. It is found that in somewhat dry calcareous soils +these plants acquire their highest colour and most elegant proportions. +When planted by the sides of carriage drives and in other places where +their colours may be suitably displayed, it is a good plan to cut off +the heads soon after the turn of the year, as this promotes the +production of side shoots of the most beautiful fresh colours. A crop of +Kale may be advantageously followed by Celery.</p> + + +<p><b>BROCCOLI</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea botrytis asparagoides</b></p> + +<p>The great importance of this crop is indicated by the long list of +varieties and the still longer list of synonyms. As a vegetable it needs +no praise, and our sole business will be to treat of the cultivation.</p> + +<p>Of necessity we begin with generalities. Any good soil will grow +Broccoli, but it is a strong-land plant, and a well-tilled clay should +yield first-class crops. But there are so many kinds coming into use at +various seasons, that the cultivation may be regarded as a somewhat +complex subject. We will therefore premise that the best must be made of +the soil at command, whatever it may be. The Cornish growers owe their +success in great part to their climate, which carries their crops +through the winter unhurt; but they grow Broccoli only on rich soil, and +keep it in good heart by means of seaweed and other fertilisers. All the +details of Broccoli culture require a liberal spirit and careful +attention, and the value of a well-grown crop justifies first-class +treatment. On the other hand, a badly-grown <a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>crop will not pay rent for +the space it covers, to say nothing of the labour that has been devoted +to it.</p> + +<p><b>The Seed-bed.</b>—Broccoli should always be sown on good seed-beds and be +planted out; the seed-beds should be narrow, say three or three and a +half feet wide, and the seed must be sown in drills half an inch deep at +the utmost—less if possible; and where sparrows haunt the garden it +will be well to cover the beds with netting, or protect the rows with +wire pea guards. A quick way of protecting all round seeds against small +birds is to put a little red lead in a saucer, then lightly sprinkle the +seed with water and shake it about in the red lead. Not a bird or mouse +will touch seed so treated.</p> + +<p>The seed-beds must be tended with scrupulous care to keep down weeds and +avert other dangers. It is of great importance to secure a robust plant, +short, full of colour, and free from club at the root. Now, cleanliness +is in itself a safeguard. It promotes a short sturdy growth, because +where there are no weeds or other rubbish the young plant has ample +light and air. Early thinning and planting is another important matter. +If the land is not ready for planting, thin the seed-bed and prick out +the seedlings. A good crop of Broccoli is worth any amount of trouble, +although trouble ought to be an unknown word in the dictionary of a +gardener.</p> + +<p><b>Manuring Ground.</b>—As a rule, Broccoli should be planted in fresh +ground, and, in mild districts, if the soil is in some degree rank with +green manure the crop will be none the worse for it. But rank manure is +not needful; a deep, well-dug, sweet loam will produce a healthy growth +and neat handsome heads. However, it is proper to remark, that if any +rank manure is in the way, or if the ground is poor and wants it, the +Broccoli will take to it kindly, and all the rankness will be gone long +before they produce their creamy heads. Still, it must be clearly +understood that the more generous the treatment, the more succulent will +be the growth, and in cold climates a succulent condition may endanger +the crop when hard weather sets in.</p> + +<p><b>Method of Planting.</b>—Broccoli follows well upon Peas, early Potatoes, +early French Beans, and Strawberries that are dug in when gathered from +for the last time. But it does not follow well upon Cabbage, Turnip, or +Cauliflower; if Broccoli must follow any of these, dig deeply, manure +heavily, and in planting, dust a little freshly slaked lime in the +holes. The times of planting will depend on the state of the plants and +the proper season of their heading in.<a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a> But everywhere and always the +plants should be got out of the seed-bed into their permanent quarters +as soon as possible, for the longer they stay in the seed-bed the more +likely are they to become drawn above and clubbed below. As regards +distances, too, the soil, the variety, and the season must be +considered. For all sorts the distances range from two to two and a half +feet; and for most of the medium-sized sorts that have to stand out +through the winter for use in spring, a distance of eighteen to +twenty-four inches is usually enough, because if they are rather close +they protect one another. But with strong sorts in strong soils and kind +climates, two feet and a half every way is none too much even for safe +wintering. Plant firmly, water if needful, and do not stint it; but, if +possible, plant in showery weather, and give no water at all. Watering +may save the crop, but the finest pieces of Broccoli are those that are +secured without any watering whatever.</p> + +<p><b>Autumn Broccoli.</b>—To grow Autumn Broccoli profitably, sow in February, +March, and April, the early sowings in a frame to insure vigorous +growth, and the later sowings in the open ground. Plant out as soon as +possible in fresh land that has been deeply tilled. If the soil is poor, +draw deep drills, fill them with fat manure, and plant by hand, taking +care to press round each root crumbs from the surface soil. This will +give them a good start, and they will take care of themselves +afterwards. When they show signs of heading in, run in shallow drills of +Prickly Spinach between them, and as this comes up the Broccoli will be +drawn, leaving the Spinach a fair chance of making a good stolen crop, +needing no special preparation whatever. Another sowing of Broccoli may +be made in May, but the early sowings, if a little nursed in the first +instance, will pay best, because early heads are scarce, whereas late +Broccoli are plentiful.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Broccoli</b> should not be sown before the end of March and thence +to the end of April. As a rule, the April sowing will make the best +crop, although much depends on season, soil, and climate. Begin to plant +out early, and continue planting until a sufficient breadth of ground is +covered. Within reasonable limits it will be found that the time of +planting does not much affect the date when the heads turn in, and only +in a moderate degree influences the size of them.</p> + +<p><b>Spring Broccoli</b> are capricious, no matter what the world may say. It +will occasionally happen that sorts planted for cutting late in spring +will turn in earlier than they are wanted, and the sun rather <a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>than the +seedsman must be blamed for their precocity. In average seasons the late +sorts turn in late; but the Broccoli is a sensitive plant, and +unseasonable warmth results in premature development. Sow the Spring +Broccoli in April and May, the April sowing being the more important. It +will not do, however, to follow a strict rule save to this effect, that +early and late sowings are the least likely to succeed, while mid-season +sowings—say from the middle of April to the middle of May—will, as a +rule, make the best crops. Where there is a constant demand for Broccoli +in the early months of the year, two or three small sowings will be +better than one large sowing.</p> + +<p><b>Summer Broccoli</b> are useful when Peas are late, and they are always +over in time to make way for the glut of the Pea crop. Late Queen may, +in average seasons, be cut at the end of May and sometimes in June, if +sown about the middle of May in the previous year, and carefully +managed. This excellent variety can, as a rule, be relied on, both to +withstand a severe winter in an exposed situation and to keep up the +supplies of first-class vegetables until the first crop of Cauliflower +is ready, and Peas are coming in freely. Generally speaking, smallish +heads, neat in shape and pure in colour, are preferred. They are the +most profitable as a crop and the most acceptable for the table. An +open, breezy place should be selected for a plantation of late Broccoli, +the land well drained, and it need not be made particularly rich with +manure. But good land is required, with plenty of light and air to +promote a dwarf sturdy growth and late turning in.</p> + +<p><b>Protection in Winter</b>.—Various plans are adopted for the protection of +Broccoli during winter. Much is to be said in favour of leaving them to +the risk of all events, for certain it is that finer heads are obtained +from undisturbed plants than by any interference with them, provided +they escape the assaults of winter frost. But in such a matter it is +wise to be guided by the light of experience. In cold districts, and on +wet soils where Broccoli do not winter well, heeling over may be +adopted. There are several ways of accomplishing the task, the most +successful method being managed thus. Open a trench at the northern end, +and gently push over each plant in the first row so that the heads +incline to the north. Put a little mould over each stem to settle it, +but do not earth it up any more than is needful to render it secure. +Push over the next row, and the next, and so on, finishing off between +them neatly and leaving the plants nearly as they were before, save that +they now all look northward, and their sloping stems are a little +<a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>deeper in the earth than they were in the first instance. This should +be done during fine weather in November, and if the plants flag a little +they should have one good watering at the roots. In the course of about +ten days it will be scarcely perceptible that they have been operated +on. They may be lifted and replanted with their heads to the north, but +this is apt to check them too much. In exceptionally cold seasons cover +the plot with straw or bracken, but this must be removed in wet weather. +When it is seen that the heads are forming and hard weather is +apprehended, some growers take them up with good balls of earth and +plant them in a frame, or even pack them neatly in a cellar, and the +heads finish fairly well, but not so well as undisturbed plants. It is +impossible, however, to cut good heads in a very severe winter without +some such protective measures. In many gardens glass is employed for +protecting Winter Broccoli, in which case the plantations are so shaped +that the frames will be easily adapted to them without any disturbance +of the plants whatever. There must be allowed a good space between the +beds to be covered, and the plants must be fifteen to eighteen inches +apart, with the object of protecting the largest number by means of a +given stock of frames.</p> + +<p><b>Sprouting Broccoli</b>, both white and purple, are invaluable to supply a +large bulk of a most acceptable vegetable in winter and early spring. +Sow in April and the plants may be treated in the same way as other +hardy winter greens. They should have the most liberal culture possible, +for which they will not fail to make an ample return. The Purple +Sprouting Broccoli is a favourite vegetable in the kitchen, because of +its freedom from the attacks of all kinds of vermin.</p> + + +<p><b>BRUSSELS SPROUTS</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea bullata gemmifera</b></p> + +<p>Brussels Sprouts are everywhere regarded as the finest autumnal +vegetable of the strictly green class. They are, however, often very +poorly grown, because the first principle of success—a long growing +season—is not recognised. It is in the power of the cultivator to +secure this by sowing seed at the end of February, or early in March, on +a bed of light rich soil made in a frame, and from the frame the plants +should be pricked out into an open bed of similar light fresh soil as +soon as they have made half a <a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>dozen leaves. From this bed they should +be transferred to their permanent quarters before they crowd one +another, the object being at each stage to obtain free growth with a +sturdy habit, for mere length of stem is no advantage; it is a +disadvantage when the plant is deficient of corresponding substance. The +ground should be made quite firm, in order to encourage robust growth +which in turn will produce shapely solid buttons. This crop is often +grown on Potato land, the plants being put out between the rows in the +course of the summer. It is better practice, however, to plant Kales or +Broccoli in Potato ground, because of the comparative slowness of their +growth, and to put the Sprouts on an open plot freely dressed with +somewhat fresh manure. If a first-class strain, such as Sutton’s +Exhibition, is grown, it will not only pay for this little extra care, +but will pay also for plenty of room, say two and a half feet apart +every way at the least; and one lot, made up of the strongest plants +drawn separately, may be in rows three feet apart, and the plants two +and a half feet asunder. For the compact-growing varieties two feet +apart each way will generally suffice. Maintain a good tilth by the +frequent use of the hoe during summer, and as autumn approaches +regularly remove all decaying leaves. Those who have been accustomed to +treat Sprouts and Kales on one uniform rough plan will be surprised at +the result of the routine we now recommend. The plants will button from +the ground line to the top, and the buttons will set so closely that, +once taken off, it will be impossible to replace them. Moderate-sized, +spherical, close, grass-green Sprouts are everywhere esteemed, and there +is nothing in the season more attractive in the markets.</p> + +<p>Crops treated as advised will give early supplies of the very finest +Sprouts. For successional crops it will be sufficient to sow in the open +ground in the latter part of March, or early in April, and plant out in +the usual manner; in other words, to treat in the commonplace way of the +ordinary run of Borecoles. With a good season and in suitable ground +there will be an average crop, which will probably hold out far into the +winter. It is important to gather the crop systematically. The Sprouts +are perfect when round and close, with not a leaf unfolded. They can be +snapped off rapidly, and where the quantity is considerable they should +be sorted into sizes. The season of use will be greatly prolonged, and +the tendency of the Sprouts to burst be lessened, if the head is cut +last of all.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a><b>CABBAGE</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea capitata</b></p> + +<p>The Cabbage is a great subject, and competes with the Potato for +pre-eminence in the cottage garden, in the market garden, and on the +farm, sometimes with such success as to prove the better paying crop of +the two. It may be said in a general way that a Cabbage may be grown +almost anywhere and anyhow; that it will thrive on any soil, and that +the seed may be sown any day in the year. All this is nearly possible, +and proves that we have a wonderful plant to deal with; but it is too +good a friend of man to be treated, even in a book, in an off-hand +manner. The Cabbage may be called a lime plant, and a clay plant; but, +like almost every other plant that is worth growing, a deep well-tilled +loam will suit it better than any other soil under the sun. It has one +persistent plague only. Not the Cabbage butterfly; for although that is +occasionally a troublesome scourge, it is not persistent, and may be +almost invisible for years together. Nor is it the aphis, although in a +hot dry season that pest is a fell destroyer of the crop. The great +plague is club or anbury, for which there is no direct remedy or +preventive known. But indirectly the foe may be fought successfully. The +crop should be moved about, and wherever Cabbage has been grown, whether +in a mere seed-bed or planted out, it should be grown no more until the +ground has been well tilled and put to other uses for one year at least, +and better if for two or three years. There are happy lands whereon club +has never been seen, and the way to keep these clear of the pest is to +practise deep digging, liberal manuring, and changing the crops to +different ground as much as possible. A mild outbreak of club may +generally be met by first removing the warts from the young plants, and +then dipping them in a puddle made of soot, lime, and clay. But when it +appears badly amongst the forward plants, their growth is arrested, the +plot becomes offensive, and the only course left is to draw the bad +plants, burn them, and give up Cabbage growing on those quarters for +several years. The question as to why the roots of brassicaceous plants +are subject to this scourge on some soils, while plants from the same +seed-bed remain healthy when transferred to different land, is deeply +interesting, and the subject is discussed later on in the chapter on +‘The Fungus Pests of certain Garden Plants.’ Here it is sufficient to +say that the presence of the disease is generally an indication that the +soil is deficient in lime. A <a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>dressing at the rate of from 14 to 28 or +even 56 pounds per square pole may be necessary to restore healthy +conditions. The outlay will not be wasted, for lime is not merely a +preventive, it has often an almost magical influence on the fertility of +land.</p> + +<p>For general purposes Cabbages may be classified as early and late. The +early kinds are extremely valuable for their earliness, but only a +sufficient quantity should be grown, because, as compared with +mid-season and late sorts, they are less profitable. In the scheme of +cropping it may be reckoned that a paying crop of Cabbage will occupy +the ground through a whole year; for although this may not be an exact +statement, the growing time will be pretty well gone before the ground +is clear. After Cabbage, none of the Brassica tribe should be put on the +land, and, if possible, the crop to follow should be one requiring less +of sulphur and alkalies, for of these the Cabbage is a great consumer, +hence the need for abundant manuring in preparation for it. The presence +of sulphur explains the offensiveness of the exhalations from Cabbage +when in a state of decay.</p> + +<p><b>Spring-sown Cabbage for Summer and Autumn use</b>.—To insure the best +succession of Cabbage it will be necessary to recognise four distinct +sowings, any of which, save the autumnal sowing, may be omitted. Begin +with a sowing of the earliest kinds in the month of February. For this, +pans or boxes must be used, and the seed should be started in a pit or +frame, or in a cool greenhouse. When forward enough, prick out in a bed +of light rich soil in a cold frame, and give plenty of air. Before the +seedlings become crowded harden them off and plant out, taking care to +lift them tenderly with earth attached to their roots to minimise the +check. These will heart quickly and be valued as summer Cabbages. The +second sowing is to be made in the last week of March, and to consist of +early kinds, including a few of the best type of Coleworts. As these +advance to a planting size, they may be put out a few at a time as plots +become vacant, and they will be useful in various ways from July to +November or later. A third sowing may be made in the first or second +week of May of small sorts and Coleworts; and these again may be planted +out as opportunities occur, both in vacant plots for hearting late in +the year, and as stolen crops in odd places to draw while young. The +second and third sowings need not be pricked out from the seed-bed, but +may be taken direct therefrom to the places where they are to finish +their course.</p> + +<p>In planting out, the spacing must be regulated according to the size of +the variety grown. If put out in beds, the plants may be <a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>placed from +one to two feet apart, and the rows one and a half to two feet asunder. +All planting should be done in showery weather if possible, or with a +falling barometer. It may not always be convenient to wait for rain, and +happily it is a peculiarity of Brassicas, and of Cabbage in particular, +that the plants will endure, after removal, heat and drought for some +time with but little harm, and again grow freely after rain has fallen. +But good cultivation has in view the prevention of any such check. At +the best it is a serious loss of time in the brief growing season. +Therefore in droughty weather it will be advisable to draw shallow +furrows and water these a day in advance of the planting, and if labour +and stuff can be found it will be well to lay in the furrows a +sprinkling of short mulchy manure to follow instantly upon the watering; +then plant with the dibber, and the work is done. If the mulch cannot be +afforded, water must be given, and to water the furrows in advance is +better than watering after the planting, as a few observations will +effectually prove. If drought continues, water should be given again and +again. The trouble must be counted as nothing compared with the certain +loss of time while the plant stands still, to become, perhaps, infested +with blue aphis, and utterly ruined. As a matter of fact, a little water +may be made to go a long way, and every drop judiciously administered +will more than repay its cost. The use of the hoe will greatly help the +growth, and a little earth may be drawn towards the stems, not to the +extent of ‘moulding-up,’ for that is injurious, but to ‘firm’ the plants +in some degree against the gales that are to be expected as the days +decline.</p> + +<p><b>Autumn-sown Cabbage for Spring and Summer use.</b>—The fourth, or autumn, +sowing is by far the most important of the year, and the exact time when +seed should be put in deserves careful consideration. A strong plant is +wanted before winter, but the growth must not be so far advanced as to +stand in peril from severe and prolonged frost. There is also the risk +that plants which are too forward may bolt when spring arrives. In some +districts it is the practice to sow in July, and to those who find the +results entirely satisfactory we have nothing to say. Our own +experiments have convinced us that, for the southern counties, August is +preferable, and it is wise to make two sowings in that month, the first +quite early and the second about a fortnight later. Here it is necessary +to observe that the selection of suitable varieties is of even greater +consequence than the date of sowing. A considerable number of the +Cabbages which possess a recognised value for spring sowing are +<a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>comparatively useless when sown in August. Success depends on the +capability of the plant to form a heart when the winter is past instead +of starting a seed-stem, and this reduces the choice to very narrow +limits. Among the few Cabbages which are specially adapted for August +sowing, Sutton’s Harbinger, April, Flower of Spring, Favourite, and +Imperial may be favourably mentioned, and even in small gardens at least +two varieties should be sown. Where Spring Cabbages manifest an unusual +tendency to bolt, sowing late in August, followed by late planting, will +generally prove a remedy, always assuming that suitable varieties have +been sown.</p> + +<p>The planting of autumn-sown Cabbages should be on well-made ground, +following Peas, Beans, or Potatoes, and as much manure should be dug in +as can be spared, for Cabbage will take all it can get in the way of +nourishment. If the entire crop is to be left for hearting, a minimum of +fifteen inches each way will be a safe distance for the smallest +varieties. Supposing every alternate plant is to be drawn young for +consumption as Coleworts, a foot apart will suffice, but in this case +the surplus plants must be cleared off by the time spring growth +commences. This procedure will leave a crop for hearting two feet apart, +and when the heads are cut the stumps will yield a supply of Sprouts. As +these Sprouts appear when vegetables are none too plentiful, they are +welcome in many households, and make a really delicate dish of greens.</p> + +<p>By sowing quick-growing varieties of Cabbage in drills during July and +August, and thinning the plants early, thus avoiding the check of +transplanting, heads may often be had fit for cutting in October and +November.</p> + +<p><b>The Red Cabbage</b> is grown for pickling and also for stewing, being in +demand at many tables as an accompaniment to roasted partridges. The +plant requires the best ground that can be provided for it, with double +digging and plenty of manure. Two sowings may be made, the first in +April for a supply in autumn for cooking, and the second in August for a +crop to stand the winter and to supply large heads for pickling.</p> + + +<p><b>SAVOY CABBAGE</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea bullata</b></p> + +<p>The Savoy Cabbage is directly related to Brussels Sprouts, though +differing immensely in appearance. It is of great value for the bulk of +food it produces, as well as for its quality as a table <a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>vegetable +during the autumn and winter. In all the essential points the Savoy may +be grown in the same way as any other Cabbage, but it is the general +practice to sow the seed in spring only, the time being determined by +requirements. For an early supply, sow in February in a frame, and in an +open bed in March, April, and May for succession. This vegetable needs a +rich deep soil to produce fine heads, but it will pay better on poor +soil than most other kinds of Cabbage, more especially if the smaller +sorts are selected. Savoys are not profitable in the form of Collards; +hence it is advisable to plant in the first instance at the proper +distances, say twelve inches for the small sorts, eighteen for those of +medium growth, and twenty to twenty-four where the ground is strong and +large heads are required. In private gardens the smaller kinds are much +the best, but the market grower must give preference to those that make +large, showy heads.</p> + + +<p><b>CAPSICUM and CHILI</b></p> + +<p><b>Capsicum annuum, C. baccatum</b></p> + +<p>Capsicums and Chilis are so interesting and ornamental that it is +surprising they are grown in comparatively few gardens. Sometimes there +is reason to lament that Cayenne pepper is coloured with drugs, but the +remedy is within reach of those who find the culture of Capsicums easy, +and to compound the pepper is not a difficult task. The large-fruited +varieties may also be prepared in various ways for the table, if +gathered while quite young and before the fruits change colour.</p> + +<p>The cultivation of Capsicums is a fairly simple matter. The best course +of procedure is to sow seed thinly in February or March in pots or pans +of fine soil placed on a gentle hot-bed or in a house where the +temperature is maintained at about 55°. Pot on the young plants as they +develop and keep them growing without a check. Spray twice daily, for +Capsicums require atmospheric moisture and the Red Spider is partial to +the plant. Nice specimens may be grown in pots five to eight inches in +diameter, beyond which it is not desirable to go, and as the summer +advances these may be taken to the conservatory. Plants intended for +fruiting in warm positions out of doors should be hardened off in +readiness for transfer at the end of May. In gardens favourably +situated, as are many in the South of England, it is sufficient to sow a +pinch of seed on an open border in the middle of May, and put a hand +glass over the spot. The <a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>plants from this sowing may be transferred to +any sunny position, and will yield an abundant crop of peppers.</p> + +<p>The Bird Pepper or Chili is grown in precisely the same way as advised +for Capsicum.</p> + +<p>To prepare the pods for pepper, put the required number into a wire +basket, and consign them to a mild oven for about twelve hours. They are +not to be cooked, but desiccated, and in most cases an ordinary oven, +with the door kept open to prevent the heat rising too high, will answer +perfectly. Being thus prepared, the next proceeding is to pound them in +a mortar with one-fourth their weight of salt, which also should be +dried in the oven, and used while hot. When finely pounded, bottle +securely, and there will be a perfect sample of Cayenne pepper without +any poisonous colouring. One hundred Chilis will make about two ounces +of pepper, which will be sufficient in most houses for one year’s +supply. The large ornamental Capsicums may be put on strings, and hung +up in a dry store-room, for use as required, to flavour soups, make +Chili vinegar, Cayenne essence, &c. The last-named condiment is prepared +by steeping Capsicums in pure spirits of wine. A few drops of the +essence may be used in any soup, or indeed wherever the flavour of +Cayenne pepper is required.</p> + + +<p><b>CARDOON</b></p> + +<p><b>Cynara Cardunculus</b></p> + +<p>This plant is nearly related to the Globe Artichoke, and it makes a +stately appearance when allowed to flower. Although the Cardoon is not +widely cultivated in this country, it is found in some of our best +gardens, and is undoubtedly a wholesome esculent from which a skilful +cook will present an excellent dish. The stalks of the inner leaves are +stewed, and are also used in soups, as well as for salads, during autumn +and winter. The flowers, after being dried, possess the property of +coagulating milk, for which purpose they are used in France.</p> + +<p>In a retentive soil Cardoons should be grown on the flat, but the plant +is a tolerably thirsty subject, and must have sufficient water. Hence on +very dry soils it may be necessary to put it in trenches after the +manner of Celery, and then it will obtain the full benefit of all the +water that may be administered. In any case the soil must be rich and +well pulverised if a satisfactory growth is to be obtained.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>Towards the end of April rows are marked out three or four feet apart, +and groups of seed sown at intervals of eighteen inches in the rows. The +plants are thinned to one at each station, and in due time secured to +stakes. Full growth is attained in August, when blanching is commenced +by gathering the leaves together, wrapping them round with bands of hay, +and earthing up. It requires from eight to ten weeks to accomplish the +object fully. The French method is quicker. Seed is sown in pots under +glass, and in May the plants are put out three feet apart. When fully +grown the Cardoons are firmly secured to stakes by three small straw +bands. A covering of straw, three inches thick, is thatched round every +plant from bottom to top, and each top is tied and turned over like a +nightcap. A little soil is then drawn to the foot, but earthing up is +needless. In about a month blanching is completed.</p> + + +<p><b>CARROT</b></p> + +<p><b>Daucus Carota</b></p> + +<p>The Carrot is a somewhat fastidious root, for although it is grown in +every garden, it is not everywhere produced in the best style possible. +The handsome long roots that are seen in the leading markets are the +growth of deep sandy soils well tilled. On heavy lumpy land long clean +roots cannot be secured by any kind of tillage. But for these unsuitable +soils there are Sutton’s Early Gem, the Champion Horn, and Intermediate, +which require no great depth of earth; while for deep loams the New Red +Intermediate answers admirably.</p> + +<p><b>Forcing.</b>—Carrots are forced in frames on very gentle hot-beds. They +cannot be well grown in houses, and they must be grown slowly to be +palatable. It is usual to begin in November, and to sow down a bed every +three or four weeks until February. A lasting hot-bed is of the first +importance, and it is therefore necessary to have a good supply of +stable manure and leaves. The material should be thoroughly mixed and +allowed to ferment for a few days. Then turn the heap again, and a few +days later the bed may be made up. In order to conserve the heat the +material will need to be three to four feet deep, and if a box frame is +used the bed should be at least two feet wider than the frame. Build up +the material in even, well-consolidated layers, to prevent unequal and +undue sinking, and make the corners of the bed perfectly sound. Put on +the bed about one foot depth of fine, rich soil; if there is any +difficulty about this, eight inches must suffice, but twelve is to be +preferred. As the season <a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>advances less fermenting material will be +needed, and a simple but effective hot-bed may be made by digging out a +hole of the required size and filling it with the manure. The latter +will in due time sink, when the soil may be added and the frame placed +in position. The bed should always be near the glass, and a great point +is gained if the crop can be carried through without once giving water, +for watering tends to damage the shape of the roots. No seed should be +sown until the temperature has declined to 80°. Sow broadcast, cover +with siftings just deep enough to hide the seed, and close the frame. If +after an interval the heat rises above 70°, give air to keep it down to +that figure or to 65°. It will probably decline to 60° by the time the +plant appears, but if the bed is a good one it will stand at that figure +long enough to make the crop. Thin betimes to two or three inches, give +air at every opportunity, let the plant have all the light possible, and +cover up when hard weather is expected. Should the heat go down too +soon, linings must be used to finish the crop. Radishes and other small +things can be grown on the same bed. In cold frames seed may be sown in +February.</p> + +<p><b>Warm Borders.</b>—In March the first sowings on warm borders in the open +garden may be made. These may need the shelter of mats or old lights +until the plant has made a good start, but it is not often the plant +suffers in any serious degree from spring frosts, as the seed will not +germinate until the soil acquires a safe temperature. All the early +crops of Carrot can be grown on a prepared soil, or a light sandy loam, +free from recent manure. The drills may be spaced from six to nine +inches apart.</p> + +<p><b>For the main crops</b> double digging should be practised, and if the +staple is poor a dressing of half-rotten dung may be put in with the +bottom spit. But a general manuring as for a surface-rooting crop is not +to be thought of, the sure effect being to cause the roots to fork and +fang most injuriously. It is sound practice to select for Carrots a deep +soil that was heavily manured the year before, and to prepare this by +double digging without manure in the autumn or winter, so as to have the +ground well pulverised by the time the seed is sown. Then dig it over +one spit deep, break the lumps, and make seed-beds four feet wide. Sow +in April and onwards in drills, mixing the seed with dry earth, the +distance between rows to be eight to twelve inches according to the +sort; cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine earth and finish the bed +neatly. As soon as possible thin the crop, but not to the full distance +in the first instance. The final spacing for main crops may be from six +to nine inches, determined by <a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>the variety. By a little management it +will be an easy matter during showery weather to draw delicate young +Carrots for the final thinning, and these will admirably succeed the +latest of the sowings in frames and warm borders.</p> + +<p><b>Late Crops.</b>—Sowings of early varieties made in July will give +delicate little roots during the autumn and winter. The rows may be +placed nine inches apart, and it is essential to thin the plants early +to about three inches apart in the rows. In the event of very severe +weather protect with dry litter. For providing young Carrots throughout +the winter it is also an excellent plan to broadcast seed thinly. When +grown in this way the plants afford each other protection, and the roots +may be drawn immediately they are large enough.</p> + +<p>In July the culture of the smaller sorts may also be undertaken in +frames, but hot-beds may be dispensed with, and lights will not be +wanted until there is a crop needing protection, when the lights may be +put on, or the frames may be covered with shutters or mats.</p> + +<p><b>Storing.</b>—Before autumn frosts set in the main crop should be lifted +and stored in dry earth or sand, the tops being removed and the earth +rubbed off, but without any attempt to clean them thoroughly until they +are wanted for use.</p> + +<p><b>Carrots for Exhibition.</b>—It will be found well worth while to give a +little extra attention to the preparation of the ground when growing +Carrots for exhibition. As in the case of Beet and Parsnip, holes should +be bored to the requisite depth and about one foot apart in the rows. +Where the soil is at all unfavourable to the growth of clean symmetrical +roots the adoption of this practice will be essential to success. Any +light soil of good quality will be suitable for filling the holes. Well +firm the material in and sow about half a dozen seeds at a station, +eventually thinning out to one plant at each. The tendency of Carrots to +become green at the tops in the later stages of growth, thus spoiling +them for show work, may be prevented by lightly covering the protruding +portion of the root with sifted fine earth.</p> + +<p><b>Destructive Enemies.</b>—The Carrot maggot and the wire-worm are +destructive enemies of this crop. In a later chapter on ‘The Pests of +Garden Plants,’ both these foes are referred to. Here it is only +necessary to say that sound judgment as to the choice of ground, deep +digging, and the preparation of the beds in good time, are the +preventives of these as of many other garden plagues. It is often +observed that main crops sown early in April suffer more than those sown +late, and the lesson is plain. It has also been noticed <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>that where the +crops have suffered most severely the land was made ready in haste, and +the wild birds had no time to purge it of the insects which they daily +seek for food.</p> + + +<p><b>CAULIFLOWER</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea botrytis cauliflora</b></p> + +<p>This fine vegetable is managed in much the same way as Broccoli, and it +requires similar conditions. But it is less hardy in constitution, more +elegant in appearance, more delicate on the table, and needs greater +care in cultivation to insure satisfactory results. As regards soil, the +Cauliflower thrives best on very rich ground of medium texture. It will +also do well on light land, if heavily manured, and quick growth is +promoted by abundant watering. In Holland, Cauliflowers are grown in +sand with water at the depth of a foot only below the surface, and the +ground is prepared by liberal dressings of cow-manure, which, with the +moisture rising from below, promotes a quick growth and a fine quality. +In any case, good cultivation is necessary or the crop will be +worthless; and whatever may be the nature of the soil, it must be well +broken up and liberally manured.</p> + +<p>In gardens where Cauliflower are in great demand, an unbroken supply of +heads from May to November may be obtained by selecting suitable +varieties and with careful management of the crop. But in arranging for +a succession it should be borne in mind that some varieties are +specially adapted for producing heads in spring and summer, while others +are only suitable for use in late summer and autumn.</p> + +<p><b>For Spring and Early Summer use.</b>—To have Cauliflower in perfection in +spring and early summer, seed should be sown in autumn. The exact time +is a question of climate. In the northern counties the middle of August +is none too early, but for the south seed may be got in during August +and September, according to local conditions. The most satisfactory +course is to sow in boxes, placed in a cool greenhouse or a cold frame, +or even in a sheltered spot out of doors. For these sowings it is +desirable to use poor soil of a calcareous nature, as at this period of +the year the seedlings are liable to damp off in rich earth. From the +commencement every endeavour must be made to keep the growth sturdy and +to avoid a check of any kind. When the plants have made some progress, +prick <a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>them off three inches apart each way into frames for the winter. +No elaborate appliances are necessary. A suitable frame may be easily +constructed by erecting wooden sides around a prepared bed of soil, over +which lights, window frames, or even a canvas covering may be placed. +Brick pits, or frames made with turf walls, will also answer well. The +soil should not be rich, or undesirable fleshy growth will result, +especially in a mild winter. It is important to ventilate freely at all +times, except during severe weather when the structures should have the +protection of mats or straw, and excessive moisture must be guarded +against. As soon as conditions are favourable in February or March, +transfer the plants to open quarters on the best land at command, and +give them every possible care. For these early-maturing varieties a +space of eighteen inches apart each way will generally suffice. With +liberal treatment, vigorous healthy growth should be made and heads of +the finest quality be ready for table from May onwards.</p> + +<p>As we have already said, the best results with early Cauliflower are +obtained from an autumn sowing, but there are many growers who prefer to +sow in January or February. At this season the seed should be started in +pans or boxes placed in a house just sufficiently heated to exclude +frost. Prick out the plants early, in a frame or on a protected border +made up with light rich soil, and when strong enough plant out on good +ground. Spring sowings put out on poor land, or in dry seasons, are +sometimes disappointing, because the heads are too small to please the +majority of growers. Where, however, the soil is rich and the district +suitable there is this advantage in quick cultivation, that while time +is shortened and the worry of wintering is avoided, the crop is safer +against buttoning and bolting, which will occasionally occur if the +plants become too forward under glass and receive a check when planted +out.</p> + +<p>In well-prepared sheltered ground seed may also be sown in March and +April, from which the plants should be pricked out once before being +transferred to permanent positions. Occasional hoeing between the plants +and heavy watering in dry weather will materially tend to their +well-doing, the object being to maintain growth from the first without a +check. If the plants turn in during very hot weather, snap one of the +inner leaves without breaking it off, and bend it over to protect the +head.</p> + +<p><b>For use in Late Summer and Autumn.</b>—Seed may be sown in April or very +early in May, and where only one sowing is made the first week of April +should be selected. A fine seed-bed in a <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>sheltered spot is desirable, +and as soon as the seedlings are large enough they should be pricked +out, three inches or so apart. Shift to final quarters while in a +smallish state. If the plants are allowed to become somewhat large in +the seed-bed they are liable to ‘button,’ which means that small, +worthless heads will be produced as the result of an untimely check. The +distances between the plants may vary from one and a half to two feet or +more, and between the rows from two to two and a half feet, according to +the size of the variety. If put out on good ground, the crop will almost +take care of itself, but should the plants need water it must be +copiously given.</p> + + +<p><b>Cutting and Preserving.</b>—The management of the crop has been treated +so far as to growth, but we must now say a word about its appropriation. +The two points for practical consideration are, how to economise a glut, +and how to avoid destruction by frost. Cauliflowers should be cut at +daybreak, or as soon after as possible, and be taken from the ground +with the dew upon them. If cut after the dew has evaporated, the heads +will be inferior by several degrees as compared with those cut at the +dawn of the day. When the heads appear at too rapid a rate for immediate +consumption, draw the plants, allowing the earth to remain attached to +the roots, and suspend them head downwards in a cool, dark, dry place, +and every evening give them a light shower of water from a syringe. The +deterioration will be but trifling, and the gain may be considerable, +but if left to battle with a burning sun the Cauliflowers will certainly +be the worse for it. After being kept in this way for a week, they will +still be good, although, like other preserved vegetables, they will not +be so good as those freshly cut and in their prime. It often happens +that frost occurs before the crop is finished. A similar plan of +preserving those that are turning in may be adopted, but it is better to +bury them in sand in a shed or under a wall, and, if kept dry, they may +remain sound for a month or more.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflower for Exhibition.</b>—On the exhibition stage few vegetables +win greater admiration than well-grown heads of Cauliflower. Indeed, +Cauliflower and Broccoli, in their respective seasons, are indispensable +items in the composition of any first-class collection. By closely +following the cultural directions contained in the foregoing pages no +difficulty should be experienced in obtaining heads of the finest +texture and spotless purity during many months of the year. The degree +of success achieved is generally in proportion to the amount of +attention devoted to minor details. Select the most robust plants and +treat them generously. As soon as the heads are <a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>formed, examine them +frequently to prevent disfiguration by vermin. The best period of the +day for cutting has already been discussed. Do not allow the heads to +stand a day longer than is necessary, and if not wanted immediately the +plants should be lifted and preserved in the manner described in the +preceding paragraph.</p> + + +<p><b>CELERY</b></p> + +<p><b>Apium graveolens</b></p> + +<p>Celery is everywhere esteemed, not only as a salad, but as a wholesome +and delicious vegetable. The crop requires the very best of cultivation, +and care should be taken not to push the growth too far, for the +gigantic Celery occasionally seen at Shows has, generally speaking, the +quality of size only, being tough and tasteless. Nevertheless, the sorts +that are held in high favour by growers of prize Celery are good in +themselves when grown to a moderate size; it is the forcing system alone +that deprives them of flavour. Yet another precaution may be needful to +prevent a mishap. In a hot summer, Celery will sometimes ‘bolt’ or run +up to flower, in which case it is worthless. This may be the fault of +the cultivator more than of the seed or the weather, for a check in many +cases hastens the flowering of plants, and it is not unusual for Celery +to receive a check through mismanagement. If sown too early, it may be +impossible to plant out when of suitable size, and the consequent arrest +of growth at a most important stage may result in a disposition to +flower the first year, instead of waiting for the second. It should be +understood, therefore, that early sowing necessitates early planting, +and the cultivator should see his way clearly from the commencement.</p> + +<p><b>Sowing and Transplanting.</b>—The 1st of March is early enough for a +first sowing anywhere of a small variety, and this will require a mild +hot-bed, or a place in the propagating house. Sow on rich fine soil in +boxes, cover lightly, and place in a temperature of 60°. When forward +enough prick out the plants on a rich bed close to the glass, in a +temperature of 60° to 65°, keep liberally moist, and give air, at first +with great caution, but increasing as the natural temperature rises +until the lights can be removed during the day. The plant may thus be +hardened for a first planting on a warm border in a bed consisting of +one-half rotten hot-bed manure and one-half of turfy loam. The bed need +not be deep, but it must be constantly moist, and old lights should be +at hand to give shelter <a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>when needful. If well grown in trenches, this +first crop will be of excellent quality, and will come in early.</p> + +<p>For the general crop a second sowing may be made of the finest Red and +White varieties, also on a mild hot-bed, in the second week of March, +and have treatment similar to the first, but once pricking out into the +open bed will be sufficient, the largest plants being put out first at +six inches, and to have shelter if needful; other plantings in the same +way to follow until the seed-bed is cleared. By good management this +sowing may be made to serve the purpose of three sowings, the chief +point being to prick out the most forward plants on another mild bed as +soon as they are large enough to be lifted, and to make a succession +from the same seed-bed as the plants advance to a suitable size.</p> + +<p>The third and last sowing may be made in the second week of April, in an +open border, on rich light soil, and should have the shelter of mats or +old lights during cold weather. From this, also, there should be two or +three prickings out, the first to be transferred to a bit of hard +ground, covered with about three inches of rich mulchy stuff, in the +warmest spot that can be found, and the last to a similar bed on the +coldest spot in the garden. In the final planting the same order should +be followed. The result will be a prolonged supply from one sowing, and +the first lot will come in early, though sown late, if the plants are +kept growing without a check, and receive thoroughly generous culture.</p> + +<p><b>The planting out</b> is an important matter, and each lot will require +separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan. +Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to +make it fit for table. There are various ways of accomplishing these +ends, although they differ but slightly, and common sense will guide us +in the matter. For the earliest crops the ground must be laid out in +trenches, with as much rich stable manure dug in as can be afforded. To +overdo it in this respect seems impossible, for Celery, like +Cauliflower, will grow freely in rotten manure alone, without any +admixture of loam. The trenches should be eighteen inches wide at +bottom, ten inches deep, and four feet from centre to centre, and should +run north and south. The plants are to be carefully lifted with a +trowel, and placed six to nine inches apart in single or double rows, +and should have water as planted, that there may be no check. In a cold +soil and a cold season the trenches may be less in depth by two or three +inches with advantage. If dry weather ensues, water must be given +ungrudgingly, but earthing up <a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>should not commence until the plant has +made a full and profitable growth, for the earthing pretty well stops +the growth, and is but a finishing process, requiring from five to seven +weeks to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put out in +the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but as the +season advances the trenches must be less deep.</p> + +<p><b>Earthing up</b> is often performed in a rough way, as though the plant +were made of wood instead of the most delicate tissue. The first +earthing should be done with a hand-fork, and quite loosely, to allow +the heart of the plant room to expand. The result should be a little +ring of light earth scarcely pressing the outside leaves, and leaving +the whole plant as free as it was before. A fortnight or so later the +earthing must be carried a stage further by means of the spade. Chop the +earth over, and lay it in heaps on each side of the plant. Then gather a +plant together with both hands, liberate one hand, and with it bring the +earth to the plant half round the base, and, changing hands, pack up the +earth on the other side. Be careful not to press the soil very close; +also avoid putting any crumbs into the heart of the plant; and do not +earth higher than the base of the leaves. As soon as may be necessary +repeat this process, carrying the earth a stage higher; and about a week +from this finish the operation.</p> + +<p>The top of the plant must now be closed, and the earth carefully packed +so high that only the very tops of the leaves are visible. Finish to a +proper slope with the spade, but do not press the plants unduly, the +object being simply to obtain a final growth of the innermost leaves in +darkness, but otherwise free from restraint.</p> + +<p><b>The Bed System</b> answers particularly well for producing a large supply +of Celery with the least amount of labour. This method of cultivation is +also especially suitable for raising Celery intended to be served when +boiled, or for soups. Celery beds are made four and a half feet wide and +ten inches deep, the soil which is taken out being laid up in a slope +round the outside of the bed, and the bank thus formed may be planted +with any quick crop, such as Dwarf Beans. The ground will need to be +heavily manured in the same manner as for the trench system. Space the +plants six inches apart in single or double lines, as may be preferred, +and allow not less than twelve inches between the rows. Water must be +given to each row as planted; afterwards the surface to be several times +chopped over with the hoe or a small fork, and watering repeated until +the plants have made a start. An easy means of blanching is by <a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>the use +of stiff paper collars as described below; another simple method is to +place mats over the tops of the plants when nearly full grown. The bed +system is not only economical, but convenient for sheltering in winter, +and should have the attention of gardeners who are expected to supply +abundance of Celery throughout the winter and spring, for in such cases +a large sample is not required, but quality and continuance are of +importance.</p> + +<p>It is a great point to keep Celery unhurt by frost far on in the winter, +and the advantage of growing the late crops on dry light soil, and on +the bed system, will be seen in the ease with which the plants can be +preserved. On heavy soil Celery soon suffers from frost, but not so +readily on a soil naturally light and dry. Moreover, the bed system +allows of many methods of protection, with whatever materials are at +command. In heavy soil fine crops of Celery for autumn use may be grown, +but in consequence of the liability of the plant to suffer by winter +damp, it is advisable to plant late crops on the level, and earth up +from the adjoining plots in order to keep the roots dry in winter. +Another step towards securing a late supply consists in bending the tops +on one side at the final earthing, which prevents the trickling of water +into the heart of the plant during heavy rain or snow.</p> + +<p><b>Celery for Exhibition.</b>—From the opening paragraph it will be gathered +that to produce extra fine specimens of Celery for exhibition very +generous treatment of the plants is necessary. Apart from the choice of +varieties—and only the finest strains should be considered—four points +are of especial importance to the cultivator. The ground must be +liberally enriched; at no period should the plant receive a check or +suffer for want of water; there must be the closest inspection at +frequent intervals to prevent disfiguration of the stalks or leaves by +slugs, snails, or the Celery fly; and finally the operation of blanching +will need great care and discretion. These points have already been +dealt with at some length. But on the question of blanching it may be +well to add that in order to insure perfect specimens, free from +blemish, artificial means of some kind must be adopted in place of +earthing up in the ordinary way. The use of strips of good quality brown +paper will prove both simple and effectual. These strips need not exceed +a width of five or six inches, fresh bands being added as growth +develops. Tie them securely with raffia or twine, making due allowance +for expansion of the plant, and when in position carefully draw the soil +towards the base.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a><b>The numerous enemies of Celery</b>, such as slugs, snails, the +mole-cricket, and the maggot, do not seriously interfere with the crop +where good cultivation prevails, but the Celery fly appears to be +indifferent to good cultivation, and therefore must be dealt with +directly. Dusting the leaves occasionally with soot has been found to +operate beneficially. It should be done during the month of June on the +mornings of days that promise to be sunny. If the soot is put on +carelessly it will do more harm than good; a very fine dusting will +suffice to render the plant distasteful to the fly. Syringing the leaves +with water impregnated with tar has also saved plants from attack. Where +the eggs are lodged the leaves will soon appear blistered, and the +maggot within must be crushed by pinching the blister between the thumb +and finger. Leaves that are much blistered should be removed and burned, +but to rob the plants of many leaves will seriously reduce the vigour of +growth.</p> + +<p><b>Celeriac</b>, or <b>Turnip-rooted Celery</b>, is much prized on the Continent +as a cooked vegetable, and as a salad. In ordinary Celery the stem forms +a mere basis to the leaves, but in Celeriac it is developed into a knob +weighing from one to five pounds, and the root is more easily preserved +than Celery. When cooked in the same manner as Sea Kale, Celery is well +known as a delicacy at English tables, and the cooked Celeriac ranks in +importance with it, though it affords quite a different dish. The stem +or axis of the plant is used, and not the stalks. To grow fine Celeriac +a long season is requisite; and therefore it is advisable to sow the +seed in a gentle heat early in March, and afterwards prick out and treat +as Celery; but after the first stage the treatment is altogether +different. For the plantation a light and rich soil is required, and +where the staple is heavy, a small bed can easily be prepared by +spreading six inches depth of any sandy soil over the surface. The +plants must be put out on the level a foot and a half apart each way, +and be planted as shallow as possible. Before planting, trim carefully +to remove lateral shoots that might divide the stems, and after planting +water freely. The cultivation will consist in keeping the crop clean, +and frequently drawing the soil away from the plants, for the more they +stand out of the ground the better, provided they are not distressed. +They must never stand still for want of water, or the roots will not +attain to a proper size. The lateral shoots and fibres must be removed +to keep the roots intact, but not to such an extent as to arrest +progress. When a good growth has been made, and the season is declining, +cover the bulbs or stems <a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>with a thin coat of fine soil, and in the +first week of October lift a portion of the crop and store it in sand, +all the leaves being first removed, except those in the centre, which +must remain, or the roots may waste their energies in producing another +set. The portion of the crop left in the ground will need protection +from frost, and this can be accomplished by earthing them over with soil +taken from between the rows.</p> + +<p>Celeriac is cooked in the same manner as Beet, and requires about the +same length of time. The stems, bulbs, or roots (for the knobs, which +are true stems, are known by various names) are trimmed, washed, and put +into boiling water without salt or any flavouring, and kept boiling +until quite tender; they may then be pared, sliced, and served with +white sauce, or left uncut to be sliced up for salads when cold.</p> + + +<p><b>CHICORY</b></p> + +<p><b>Cichorium Intybus</b></p> + +<p>A valuable addition to the supply of winter and spring roots. When +stewed and served with melted butter, Chicory bears a slight resemblance +to Sea Kale. More frequently, however, it is eaten in the same manner as +Celery, with cheese, and it also makes an excellent and most wholesome +salad. All the garden varieties have been obtained from the wild plant, +and some of the stocks show a decided tendency to revert to the wild +condition. It is therefore important to sow a carefully selected strain, +or the roots may be worthless for producing heads.</p> + +<p>Seed should be sown in May or June, in rows one foot apart, and the +plants thinned out to about nine inches in the rows. The soil must be +deep and rich, but free from recent manure, except at a depth of twelve +inches, when the roots will attain the size of a good Parsnip.</p> + +<p>In autumn the roots must be lifted uninjured with the aid of a fork, and +only a few at a time, as required. After cutting off the tops just above +the crown, they can at once be started into growth, and it is essential +that this be made in absolute darkness. French growers plant in a warm +bed of the temperature suited to Mushrooms, but this treatment ruins the +flavour, and has the effect of making the fibre of the leaves woolly. It +is far simpler and better to put the roots into a cellar or shed in +which a temperature above the freezing point may be relied on, and from +which every ray of light can be excluded. They can be closely packed in +deep boxes, with light soil <a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>or leaf-mould between. If the soil be +fairly moist, watering will not be necessary for a month, and had better +not be resorted to until the plants show signs of flagging. Instead of +boxes, a couple of long and very wide boards, stood on edge and +supported from the outside, make a convenient and effective trough. The +packing of the roots with soil can be commenced at one end, and be +gradually extended through the entire length, until the part first used +is ready for a fresh start. Breaking the leaves is better than cutting, +and gathering may begin about three weeks after the roots are stored. +From well-grown specimens, heads may be obtained equal to a compact Cos +Lettuce, and by a little management it is easy to maintain a supply from +October until the end of May. The quantity of salading to be obtained +from a few roots is really astonishing.</p> + + +<p><b>CORN SALAD</b></p> + +<p><b>Valerianella olitoria</b></p> + +<p>Corn Salad, or Lamb’s Lettuce, so often seen on Continental tables, is +comparatively unknown in this country. The reason for this is, perhaps, +to be found in the fact that, as a raw vegetable, it is not particularly +palatable, although when dressed as a salad with oil and the usual +condiments it is altogether delicious, and forms a most refreshing +episode in the routine of a good dinner. Corn Salad is a plant of quick +growth, and is valued for its early appearance in spring, when elegant +salads are much in request. It may be mixed with other vegetables for +the purpose, or served alone with a little suitable preparation.</p> + +<p>The most important sowings are made in August and September. Seed may, +however, be sown at any time from February to October, but only those +who are accustomed to the plant should trouble to secure summer crops; +when Lettuces are plentiful Corn Salad is seldom required. Any good soil +will grow it, but the situation should be dry and open. Sow in drills +six inches apart, and thin to six inches in the rows. The crop is taken +in the same way as Spinach, either by the removal of separate leaves or +cutting over in tufts.</p> + + +<p><b>COUVE TRONCHUDA</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea costata</b></p> + +<p>Couve Tronchuda, or Portugal Cabbage, is a fine vegetable that should be +grown in every garden, including those in which Cabbages <a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>generally are +not regarded as of much importance. The plant is of noble growth, and in +rich ground requires abundant room for the spread of its great leaves, +the midribs of which are thick, white, tender, and when cooked in the +same manner as Sea Kale quite superb in quality. When a fair crop of +these midribs has been taken there remains the top Cabbage, which is +excellent.</p> + +<p>Two or three sowings may be made in February, March, and April, and the +early ones must be in heat. Transfer to rich soil as early as possible, +giving the plants ample room, from two to three feet each way, and aid +with plentiful supplies of water in dry weather.</p> + + +<p><b>CRESS</b></p> + +<p><b>Lepidium sativum</b></p> + + +<p>Cress is best grown in small lots from frequent sowings, and the sorts +should be kept separate, and, if possible, on the same border. Fresh +fine soil is requisite, and there is no occasion for manuring, in fact +it is objectionable, but a change of soil must be made occasionally to +insure a good growth. The seed is usually sown too thick, yet thin +sowing is not to be recommended. It is important to cut Cress when it is +just ready—tender, green, short, and plump. This it will never be if +sown too thick, or allowed to stand too long. Immediately the plant +grows beyond salad size it becomes worthless, and should be dug in. From +small sowings at frequent intervals under glass a constant supply of +Cress may be kept up through the cold months of the year, for which +purpose shallow boxes or pans will be found most convenient. Cress +generally requires rather more time than Mustard.</p> + +<p><b>American</b> or <b>Land Cress</b> (<i>Barbarea præcox</i>) is of excellent quality +when grown on a good border, and two or three sowings should be made in +the spring and autumn in shady spots. If the site is not naturally +moist, water must be copiously given.</p> + +<p><b>Water Cress</b> (<i>Nasturtium officinale</i>) is so highly prized that many +who are out of the reach of ordinary sources of supply would gladly +cultivate it were there a reasonable prospect of success. Assertions +have been made that it can be grown in any garden without water, but we +have never yet seen a sample fit to eat which has been grown without +assistance from the water can. A running stream is not necessary. Make a +trench in a shady spot, and well enrich the soil at the bottom of it. In +this sow the seed in March, <a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>and when the plants are established keep +the soil well moistened. The more freely this is done the better will be +the result. Other sowings may be made in April, August, and September. +We have seen Water Cress successfully cultivated in pots and pans +immersed in saucers of water placed in shady positions.</p> + + +<p><b>CUCUMBER</b></p> + +<p><b>Cucumis sativus</b></p> + + +<p>The Cucumber is everywhere valued. Its exceeding usefulness explains its +popularity, and happily the plant is of an accommodating character. In +large establishments, Cucumbers are grown at all seasons of the year; in +medium-sized gardens, summer Cucumbers are generally deemed sufficient, +and there is no difficulty in growing an abundant and continuous supply +of the finest quality. The winter cultivation demands suitable +appliances and skilful management; but a very small house, with an +efficient heating apparatus, will suffice to produce a large and +constant supply, and therefore winter Cucumbers need not be regarded as +beyond the range of practice of any ordinary well-kept garden.</p> + +<p><b>Frame Cucumbers</b> are the most in demand, and the easiest to grow. The +very first point for the cultivator is to determine when to begin, for +the rule is to begin too early, and to waste time and opportunity in +consequence. We will suppose the Cucumbers are to be grown in a +two-light frame, for which will be required four good cartloads of +stable manure. This should be put in a heap three weeks before the bed +is made up, and the bed will have to last until the season is +sufficiently advanced to sustain the heat without any further +fermentation. Considering these points, it will be understood that it is +a far safer proceeding to begin the first week in April than the first +week in March, and unless the way is clearly seen, the later date is +certainly preferable, for it reduces to a minimum the conflict with time +in the matter of bottom heat. Make up the heap; then, early in March, +turn it twice, and at the end of the month prepare the bed, firming the +stuff with a fork as the work proceeds, but taking care not to tread on +the bed. Put on the lights and leave the affair for five or six days; +then lay down a bed of rich loamy soil of a somewhat light and turfy +texture, about nine inches deep. It is now optional to sow or plant as +may be most convenient.<a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a> Strong plants in pots, put out at once, will +fruit earlier than plants from seeds sown on the bed. But sowing on the +bed is good practice for all that, and if this plan is adopted a few +more seeds must be sown than the number of plants required, to provide a +margin for enemies; any surplus plants will generally prove useful, for +Cucumber plants seldom go begging. If it is preferred to begin with +plants, the question of providing them must be considered in good time. +The seed should be sown at least a month in advance, and should be +brought forward on a hot-bed or in a cool part of a stove. Many a +successful Cucumber grower has no better means of raising plants than by +sowing the seeds in a box or pan of light rich earth, kept in a sunny +corner of a common greenhouse, with a slate or tile laid over until the +seeds start, and by a little careful management nice thrifty plants are +secured in the course of about four weeks. In some books on horticulture +a great deal is said as to the soil in which Cucumber seed should be +sown. We advise the reader not to make too much of that question. Any +turfy loam, or even peat, will answer; but a rank soil is certainly +unfit. The object should be to obtain short, stout plants of a healthy +green colour; not the long-drawn, pallid things that are often to be +seen on sale, and which by their evident weakness seem destined to +illustrate the problems of Cucumber disease.</p> + +<p>Having made a beginning with strong plants on a good bed, the two +matters of importance are to regulate the temperature and the watering. +In the first instance, it will be necessary to shade the plants a +little, but as they acquire strength they should have more light and +more air than are usually allowed to Cucumbers. A temperature averaging +60° by night and 80° by day will be found safe and profitable, as +promoting a healthy growth and lasting fruitfulness. But the rule must +be elastic. You may shut up at 90° without harm, and during sunshine the +glass may rise to 95° without injury, provided the plants have air and +are not dry at the roots. But it is of great moment that the night +temperature should be kept near 60° and not go below it. If the +thermometer shows that the night temperature has been above the proper +point owing to the heat of the bed, wedge up the lights about half an +inch in the evening, and as the season advances increase this supply of +night air, for it keeps the plants in health, provided there is no chill +accompanying it. As regards watering, the important point is to employ +soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a spare +can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame ready for use, +<a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>and when emptied should be filled again and left for the next watering. +Twice a day at least the plants and the sides of the frame should +receive a shower from the syringe. It is better to syringe three times +than twice, but this must be in some degree determined by the +temperature. The greater the heat, the more freely should air and water +be supplied; on the other hand, if the heat runs down, give water with +caution, or disaster may follow. In case of emergency the plants will go +through a bad time without serious damage if kept almost dry, and then +it will be prudent to give but little air. Sometimes the heat of the bed +runs out before there is sufficient sun heat to keep the plants growing, +but if they can be maintained in health for a week or so, hot weather +may set in, and all will come right. But to carry Cucumbers through at +such a time demands particular care as to watering and air-giving.</p> + +<p>As regards stopping and training, we may as well say at once, that the +less of both the better. Free healthy natural growth will result in an +abundant production of fruit, and stopping and training will do very +little to promote the end in view. But there is something to be done to +secure an even growth and the exposure of every leaf to light. When the +young plant has made three rough leaves, nip out the point to encourage +the production of shoots from the base. When the shoots have made four +leaves, nip out the points to promote a further growth of side shoots, +and after this there must be no more stopping until there is a show of +fruit. The growth should be pegged out to cover the bed in the most +regular manner possible, and wherever superfluous shoots appear they +must be removed. Any crowding will have to be paid for, because crowded +shoots are not fruitful. If a great show of fruit appears suddenly, +remove a large portion of it, as over-cropping makes a troublesome glut +for a short time, and then there is an end of the business; but by +keeping the crop down to a reasonable limit, the plants will bear freely +to the end of the season. Every fruiting shoot should be stopped at two +leaves beyond the fruit, and as the crop progresses there must be +occasional pruning out of old shoots to make room for young ones. An +error of management likely to occur with a beginner is allowing the bed +to become dry below while it is kept quite moist above by means of the +syringe. Many cultivators drive sticks into the bed here and there, and +from time to time they draw these out and judge by their appearance +whether or not the bed needs a heavy watering. To be dry at the root is +deadly to the Cucumber plant, and to be in a swamp is not less deadly. +It must have abundance <a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>of moisture above and below, but stagnation of +either air or water will bring disease, ending in a waste of labour.</p> + +<p><b>The greenhouse cultivation</b> of the Cucumber for a summer crop only is +the most profitable and simple as well as the most interesting of all +the methods practised. In many gardens the houses that have been filled +during the winter with Geraniums and other plants are very poorly +furnished during the summer, and present a most unsightly appearance. +Now, it is a very easy matter to render them at once profitable and +beautiful, for when clothed with green vines bearing handsome Cucumbers, +such houses are attractive and pay their way amazingly well. To carry +out the routine properly, the house should be cleared at the end of +April, the plants being removed to pits and frames. If possible, make up +the beds on slates laid close over the hot-water pipes, and use a bushel +or more of soil under each light to begin with. First lay on the slate a +large seed-pan, bottom upwards, and on that a few flat tiles, and then +heap up a shallow cone of nice light turfy loam. Start the fire and shut +up, and raise the heat of the empty house to 80° or 90° for one whole +day. The next day plant on each hillock a short stout Cucumber plant, or +sow three seeds. Proceed as advised for frame culture, keeping a +temperature of 60° by night and 80° by day, with a rise of 5° to 10° +during sunshine. Ply the syringe freely, give air carefully, and use the +least amount of shading possible. It will very soon be found that by +judicious management in shutting up and air-giving, the firing may be +dispensed with, and then it remains only to syringe freely and train +with care. The plants should not be stopped at all, but be taken up +direct to the roof and be trained out on a few wires or tarred string, +in the first instance right and left, and afterwards along the rafters +to meet at the ridge, and form a rich leafy arcade. The fruits will +appear in quantity, and must be thinned to prevent over-cropping. As the +plants grow, earth must be added to the hillocks until there is a +continuous bed, on which a certain number of shoots may be trained where +there is sufficient light for them. It is best to begin as advised +above, with the aid of fire heat to start the crop for the sake of +gaining time; but if this is not convenient begin without fire heat in +the last week of May, and the plants will produce fruit until the chill +of autumn makes an end of them, and the house is again required for the +greenhouse plants.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Cucumbers</b> thrive best in lean-to houses with somewhat steep +roofs, as such houses are less liable to chill during cold windy +weather, and they catch a maximum of the winter sunshine.<a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a> In a mild +winter, Cucumbers may be grown in any kind of house that can be +maintained at a suitable temperature, and the markets are supplied from +rough constructions that do duty for many purposes. But in hard weather, +the steep lean-to, with bed along the front, and tank to give equable +bottom heat, will prove the most serviceable, as it will neither allow +snow to lodge on the glass, nor suffer any serious decline of +temperature during the prevalence of sharp frost and keen winds. For +late autumn supply any kind of house will suffice, but best of all an +airy span. A brick pit will answer every purpose from October to March +with good management, and fermenting materials will afford the needful +heat. In such cases trenches should be provided for occasional renewal +of the bottom heat. But a roomy house and a service of hot water justly +stand in favour with experienced cultivators, as combining the necessary +conditions with convenience of management.</p> + +<p>For winter culture, plants are raised from seeds and from cuttings. +Seedling plants are the most vigorous, but they require a little more +time than cuttings to arrive at a fruiting state. For pot culture +cuttings are preferable, as only a moderate crop is expected, and +quickness of production is of great importance. It is usual to sow the +first lot of seeds on the 1st of September, and to sow again on the 1st +of October and the 1st of November; after which it is not advisable to +sow again until the 1st of February for the spring crop. If the +management is good, the first sowing will be in fruit by the time the +third batch of seed is sown, say, by the first week of November, and +thenceforward throughout the winter there should be no break in the +supply.</p> + +<p>The management of Winter Cucumbers turns upon details chiefly, and will +be found in the end to depend rather upon care than skill. The general +principles are the same as in growing Cucumbers in frames, the task for +the cultivator being to carry them out successfully. Begin by sowing the +seed singly in small pots in light turfy loam, or peat with which a fair +proportion of sharp sand has been mixed. These pots to be placed in a +heat of 70° to 75°, and for plants to last long the lower temperature is +preferable. As regards the next stage, the plants may be trained up +rafters, or spread out on beds, the first being always the better plan +where it happens to be convenient. But the prudent cultivator will not +be tied to rules; he will cut his coat according to his cloth, and while +he has a house of Cucumbers trained to the roof, he will, perhaps, also +have a pit filled with plants on beds. To stop severely is bad practice, +for vigorous <a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>growth is wanted; but a certain amount of stopping must be +done to promote an even growth, and to distribute the fruit fairly both +in space and time. We have already admitted that in some books on +gardening too much has been said about soil. In many places a suitable +turfy loam, or a good fibrous peat, may be obtained, and the accidents +that have befallen Cucumbers have usually been the result of bad +management in respect of heat, water, and air, rather than the use of +unsuitable soil. But it must not be supposed that we are careless about +this matter. Neither a pasty clay, a sour sticky loam, nor a poor sandy +or chalky soil will produce fine Cucumbers. On the other hand, rank +manure and poor leaf-mould are both unfavourable materials. There is +nothing like mellow loam, which can be enriched and modified at +discretion, without going to extremes.</p> + +<p><b>Ridge Cucumbers</b> are grown in much the same way as recommended for +Vegetable Marrows. They may be put on hillocks or beds, and in either +case a foundation of fermenting material is required to insure a crop in +the early part of the summer. For a late crop, the natural heat of the +soil will be sufficient should the summer prove to be fine, but in a +cold season Ridge Cucumbers are disappointing. Of the many methods of +growing them, one of the best is to lay out the ground in four-feet beds +by taking out the soil to a depth of fifteen inches, and spreading about +that depth or more of half-rotted manure, to which may be added any +leaves and other litter that may be handy. Cover with a foot depth of +good loam. About mid-April sow the seeds in three-inch pots or in boxes +and place in a cool greenhouse. After careful hardening, plant out about +the third week of May. If preferred, seeds may be sown on the bed early +in May. Give the plants the protection of a hand-light should the +weather prove unfavourable, and some care will be needed to keep them +moving fairly until the season is so far advanced as to allow for the +removal of the lights. Put the plants at thirty inches apart down the +middle of the bed, and when growing freely, nip out the points <i>once +only</i>. A crop of Lettuce may be taken from the beds while the plants are +advancing.</p> + + +<p><b>DANDELION</b></p> + +<p><b>Taraxacum officinale</b></p> + +<p>As a salad Dandelion has won general esteem for its wholesome medicinal +qualities. Nature teaches the way to grow this plant, for she sows the +seed in early summer, and we find the finest <a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>plants on dry ground, +while there are none to be found in bogs and swamps. Any gravelly or +chalky soil will grow good Dandelion, one fair digging without manure +being a sufficient preparation for it. Sow in May or June, and thin to +one foot apart every way, keeping the crop scrupulously clean by flat +hoeing. Any time in the winter the roots may be lifted and forced in the +same way as Sea Kale, or they may be covered with pots in spring to +blanch where grown. In any case the spring growth must be made in +darkness, for when green the flavour is bitter. Invalids who require +this salutary salad may obtain early supplies by planting the roots in +boxes in a cellar, and covering with empty boxes. Only as much water +should be given as will keep the roots reasonably moist.</p> + + +<p><b>EGG PLANT (AUBERGINE)</b></p> + +<p><b>Solatium Melongena, S. esculentum</b></p> + +<p>In this country the Egg Plant is generally grown merely as an ornament, +but it is a delicious vegetable when sliced and fried in oil, the +purple-and black-fruited kinds being especially serviceable for the +table. The common white, which is best known, is fairly good when cooked +young, though less rich in flavour than the purple. The cultivation +recommended for Capsicum will suit the Egg Plant, but little atmospheric +moisture is needed or the seedlings may damp off. They are not well +adapted for planting out, although in a warm season they will fruit +freely under a sunny wall, and will grow in a gravel walk if helped at +first with a little good soil round the roots. If required in quantity +for the table, the purple variety may be grown in a frame from plants +raised on a hot-bed. Generally speaking, a few plants in pots are all +that are required where the fruit is not valued as an esculent.</p> + + +<p><b>ENDIVE</b></p> + +<p><b>Cichorium Endivia</b></p> + +<p>As a result of the growing taste for wholesome salads Endive has +considerably advanced in public esteem. The flavour of well-blanched +Endive suits most palates that have had experience of salads, and of the +salutary properties of the plant we have a hint in its close relation to +the Chicory.</p> + +<p>The selection of sorts is a question of importance, because the handsome +curled varieties that make the best appearance on the <a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>table, and might +be regarded as ornaments if they were not edible, are the very finest +for salads, being tender, with a fresh nutty flavour. The broad-leaved +sorts are not so well adapted for salads as for stews, and they take the +place of Lettuces when the latter are not available for soups and +ragoûts. However, when an emergency occurs, the curled varieties will be +found suitable for cooking, and the broad-leaved for salading, and +therefore there need be no waste where one sort predominates.</p> + +<p><b>Soil</b>.—A difficulty common to Endive culture may be got over in the +way advised for Celeriac. The plant requires a light, dry, sandy soil; +and a portion, at least, of the crop is expected to stand through the +winter. Thus on a heavy soil there is a prospect of failure in respect +of the late crop, but that is obviated by adopting a made bed—one of +smallish dimensions being sufficient to accommodate a large stock of +plants. Select an open spot, make a foundation of any hard rubbish that +is at hand, and on this put one to two feet of sandy soil. This will +form a raised bed of a kind exactly suited to the plant, and will cost +but little as compared with its ultimate value. If regularly dressed +with manure, and otherwise well managed, the bed will supply Endive in +winter and other salads in summer, or it may be cropped with Dwarf +Beans, which can be removed in August to make way for the usual planting +of Endive. Where the soil is naturally light and dry no such preparation +is needed, but Endive does not come to perfection without food, and +therefore the soil should be rich and deeply dug.</p> + +<p><b>Sowing and Transplanting</b>.—The seed may be sown as early as March, in +a moderate heat, but the latter part of April is early enough for most +purposes, and the main sowings are made in June. Later sowings may +follow in July and August. But the June sowing is the most important, as +by a little careful management it will supply a few early heads and many +late ones. Sow in shallow drills six inches apart, and when the plants +are an inch high draw the most forward, and prick them out on a bed of +rich light soil in the same way as Celery, and with a little nursing +these will make a first plantation. The plants in the seed-bed should be +thinned to three inches, and must have water in dry weather. All the +thinnings should be pricked out in the first instance to make them +strong for planting, but the last lot may go direct to the beds to +finish.</p> + +<p>The final planting must be on rich, light, dry soil, and water given to +encourage growth. The distance for the curled varieties is a foot each +way, and for the broad-leaved fifteen inches.<a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a> In taking the last lot +from the seed-bed, a crop should be left untouched to mature at twelve +to fifteen inches apart. These plants will give a first and most +excellent supply if carefully blanched.</p> + +<p>If more convenient, seed may be sown where the crop is intended to +stand, the plants being thinned to the distances already given.</p> + +<p><b>The blanching</b> is an important business, and is variously performed. +The customary mode is to tie the leaves together in the manner usual +with Lettuce and mould them up. This method answers perfectly, except in +wet seasons, when, if the plants stand for some time, the outer leaves +begin to rot, and the decay proceeds inwards, to the deterioration or +destruction of the plant. A clean and effective process is to cover the +heart of the plant with a flower-pot. The hole is darkened with part of +a tile or slate, on which should be laid a piece of turf or a handful of +mould. A plate or clean tile placed over the centre of the plant will +also blanch Endives satisfactorily in autumn. For winter supplies, the +plants may be lifted as wanted and placed in boxes or pots of soil, +these being covered with other boxes or pots to exclude light. A +Mushroom-house, cellar, or under a greenhouse stage, will serve for +storing the lifted plants. The blanching must be carried on in such a +way as to insure a succession without a glut at any time, for when +sufficiently blanched Endive should be used, or decay will soon set in.</p> + + +<p><b>GARLIC</b></p> + +<p><b>Allium sativura</b></p> + +<p>The mode of culture advised for Shallots will suit Garlic also, except +that the latter should be planted in February about two inches beneath +the surface of the soil, and the bulbs may be grown closer together, +about eight or nine inches apart each way.</p> + +<p>When large bulbs are required for exhibition or other purposes, the +cloves—as the divisions of each root are called—should be planted +separately; but for general use moderate-sized bulbs, planted whole, +will produce a heavier crop.</p> + + +<p><b>GOURD and PUMPKIN</b></p> + +<p>(<b>Cucurbita</b>)</p> + +<p>Gourds and Pumpkins may be grown to perfection by precisely the same +method recommended for Ridge Cucumbers; but as the plants <a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>occupy more +space, room must be left for them to extend south wards beyond the +limits of the ridge. It is well to put out strong plants from seeds sown +in pots in April or May, and protect them until established. If these +are not obtainable, the seed may be sown where the plants are intended +to stand, and there will in time be plenty of produce, but of course +somewhat later in the season than if strong plants had been put out in +the first instance. Keep a sharp look-out for slugs, which will flock in +from all quarters to feast upon them, but will scarcely touch them after +they have been planted a week or so. Any rough fermenting material, such +as grass mowings, may be used in making the hills, to give them the aid +of a warm bed for a brief space of time, and it is a great gain if they +grow freely from the first. Later on the natural heat will be enough for +them.</p> + +<p>The edible Gourds are useful in all their stages and ages; and if the +cultivator has a fancy to grow large, handsome fruits, he can make the +business answer by hanging them up for use in winter, when they may be +employed in soups in place of Carrots, or in addition to the usual +vegetables, and may indeed be cooked in half a dozen different ways. +There remains yet one more purpose to which the plants may be applied: +supposing you have a great plantation of edible Gourds and Marrows, and +would like a peculiarly elegant and delicious dish of Spinach, pinch off +a sufficiency of the tops of the advancing shoots, and cook them Spinach +fashion. If properly done, it is one of the finest vegetables ever +eaten. As pinching off the tender tops of the shoots lessens the +fruitfulness of the vines, we only recommend this procedure where there +is a large plantation.</p> + +<p>Gourds may be trained to trellises, fences, and walls. In all such +cases, a good bed should be prepared of any light, rich loam, and it +will be none the less effective if made on a mound of fermenting +material.</p> + + +<p><b>HERBS</b></p> + +<p>With certain exceptions, the growing of Sweet Herbs from seeds is +altogether advantageous. The plants come perfectly true, and are so +vigorous that it is easier to raise them from seed than to secure a +succession from slips or cuttings. To meet a large and continuous demand +in the kitchen there must be a proportionate plantation in the border; +but in gardens of medium size we do not advocate the culture of Herbs on +an extensive scale, unless there be a special <a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>object in view. A +moderate number of Herbs will meet the necessities of most families. +Still it is a fact that the tendency is always in the direction of +increased variety, and gardeners are called on to provide frequent +changes of flavouring Herbs, some of which are quite as highly prized in +salads as they are for culinary purposes.</p> + +<p>In the smallest gardens, Mint, Parsley, Sage, and both Common and Lemon +Thyme, must find a place. In gardens which have any pretension to supply +the needs of a luxurious table there should be added Basil, Chives, Pot +and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel, Tarragon, and +others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens generally contain a +plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties which follow.</p> + +<p>Several of the most popular Herbs, such as Chives, Mint, Tarragon, and +Lemon Thyme, are not grown from seed—at all events, those who venture +on the pastime might employ their labour to greater advantage. But +others, such as Basil, Borage, Chervil, Fennel, Marjoram, Marigold, +Parsley, Savory, &c., are grown from seed, in some cases of necessity, +and in others because it is the quicker and easier way of securing a +crop.</p> + +<p>Angelica and Mint flourish in moist soil, but the majority of aromatic +Herbs succeed on land that is dry, poor, and somewhat sandy, rather than +in the rich borders that usually prevail in the Kitchen Garden. Happily +they are not very particular, but sunshine they must have for the +secretion of their fragrant essences. A narrow border marked off in +drills, and, if possible, sloping to the south, will answer admirably. +Thin the plants in good time, and the thinnings of those wanted in +quantity may, if necessary, be transplanted. The soil must be kept free +from weeds, and every variety be allowed sufficient space for full +development.</p> + +<p><b>Angelica</b> (<i>A. Archangelica</i>).—A native biennial which is not easily +raised from seed treated in the ordinary way. Germination is always +capricious, slow and irregular. It may be several months before the +plants begin to appear. The best results are obtained by placing the +seed in sand, kept moist for several weeks before sowing. The leaves and +stalks are sometimes blanched and eaten as Celery, and are also boiled +with meat and fish. Occasionally the tender stems and midribs are coated +with candied sugar as a confection. Angelica was formerly supposed to +possess great medicinal virtues, but its reputation as a remedy for +poison and as a preventive of infectious diseases is not supported by +the disciples of modern chemistry. The seeds are still used for +flavouring liqueurs.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a><b>Balm</b> (<i>Melissa officinalis</i>).—A perennial herb, which can be +propagated by cuttings or grown as an annual from seed. An essential oil +is distilled from the leaves, but they are chiefly used, when dried, for +making tea for invalids, especially those suffering from fever. The +plant has also been used for making Balm wine. Sow in May.</p> + +<p><b>Basil, Bush</b> (<i>Ocymum minimum</i>).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the +same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April.</p> + +<p><b>Basil, Sweet</b> (<i>Ocymum Basilicum</i>).—A tender annual, originally +obtained from India, and one of the most popular of the flavouring +Herbs. Seeds should be sown in February or March in gentle heat. When +large enough the seedlings must be pricked off into boxes until they are +ready for transferring to a rich border in June, or seed may be sown in +the open ground during April and May. A space of eight inches between +the plants in the rows will suffice, but the rows should be at least a +foot apart. The flower-stems must be cut as they rise, and be tied in +bundles for winter use. This practice will prolong the life of the plant +until late in the season. Many gardeners lift plants in September, pot +them, and so maintain a supply of fresh green leaves until winter is far +advanced.</p> + +<p><b>Borage</b> (<i>Borago officinalis</i>).—A native hardy plant, which thrives in +poor, stony soil. The flowers are used for flavouring purposes, +especially for claret-cup. Borage is also a great favourite with +bee-masters. Sow in April or May in good loam, and thin to fifteen or +eighteen inches apart. The rows should be from eighteen to twenty-four +inches asunder, for the plant is tall, and strong in growth.</p> + +<p><b>Chervil, Curled</b> (<i>Anthriscus Cerefolium</i>).—Used for salads, +garnishing, and culinary purposes. To secure a regular supply of leaves +small successional sowings are necessary from spring to autumn, and +frequent watering in dry weather will prevent the plants from being +spoiled by throwing up seed-stems. For winter use, sow in boxes kept in +a warm temperature.</p> + +<p><b>Chives</b> (<i>Allium Schænoprasum</i>).—A mild substitute for the Onion in +salads and soups. The plant is a native of Britain, and will grow freely +in any ordinary garden soil. Propagation is effected by division of the +roots either in spring or autumn. The clumps should be cut regularly in +succession whether wanted or not, with the object of maintaining a +continuous growth of young and tender shoots. At intervals of four years +it will be necessary to lift, divide, and replant the roots on fresh +ground.</p> + +<p><b>Fennel</b> (<i>Fæniculum officinale</i>).—A hardy perennial which has been +naturalised in some parts of this country. It is grown in gardens <a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>to +furnish a supply of its elegant feathery foliage for garnishing and for +use in fish sauces. Occasionally the stems are blanched and eaten in the +same way as Celery, and in the natural state they are boiled as a +vegetable. The seeds are also employed for flavouring. Sow in drills in +April and May, and thin the plants to fifteen inches apart.</p> + +<p><b>Finocchio, or Florence Fennel</b> (<i>Fæniculum dulce</i>, DC).—A +sweet-tasting herb, very largely grown in the south of Italy, where it +is eaten both in the natural state and when boiled. Sow in the open +ground during spring or early summer, in rows about eighteen inches +apart, and thin or transplant to six or nine inches. When the base +begins to swell, earth up the plants in the same manner as Celery. If +transplanted, pinch off the tips of the roots.</p> + +<p><b>Horehound</b> (<i>Marrubium vulgare</i>).—A well-known medicinal herb, from +which an extract is obtained for subduing irritating coughs. Sow in +April or May, and thin the plants until they stand fifteen inches apart.</p> + +<p><b>Hyssop</b> (<i>Hyssopus officinalis</i>).—The leaves and young shoots are used +as a pot-herb, and the leafy tops and flowers, when dried, are employed +for medicinal purposes. Hyssop is also occasionally used as an edging +plant. A dry soil and warm situation suit it. Sow in April, and thin the +plants to a foot apart in the rows.</p> + +<p><b>Lavender</b> (<i>Lavandula</i>).—Universally known and valued for its perfume. +Although the plant is generally propagated from cuttings, it can easily +be grown from seed sown in April or May. The plants attain a height of +one or two feet, and the stems should not be cut until the flowers are +expanded.</p> + +<p><b>Marigold, Pot</b> (<i>Calendula officinalis</i>).—Employed both in flower and +vegetable gardens: in the former as a bedding annual, and in the latter +that the flowers may be dried and stored for colouring and flavouring +soups; also for distilling. In April or May sow the seed in drills one +foot apart, and thin the plants to the same distance in the rows.</p> + +<p><b>Marjoram, Pot</b> (<i>Origanum Onites</i>).—One of the most familiar Herbs in +British gardens. The aromatic leaves are used both green and when dried +for flavouring. Strictly the plant is a perennial, but it is readily +grown as an annual. Sow in February or March in gentle heat, and in the +open ground a month later. The plants should be allowed a space often +inches or a foot each way.</p> + +<p><b>Marjoram, Sweet Knotted</b> (<i>Origanum Majorana</i>).—This plant is used for +culinary purposes in the same way as the Pot<a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a> Marjoram, and it is also +regarded as a tonic and stomachic. The most satisfactory mode of +cultivation is that of a half-hardy annual. Sow in March or April and +allow each plant a square foot of ground.</p> + +<p><b>Mint</b> (<i>Mentha viridis</i>).—Known also as Spearmint. It must be grown +from divisions. Between the delicacy of fresh young green leaves and +those which have been dried with the utmost care there is so wide a +difference that the practice of forcing from November to May is fully +justified. This is easily accomplished by packing roots in a box and +keeping them moist in a temperature of 60°. Where this is impossible, +stems must be cut, bunched, and hung in a cool store for use during +winter and spring. Mint grows vigorously in damp soil, and the bed +should have occasional attention, to prevent plants from extending +beyond their proper boundary. To secure young and luxuriant growth a +fresh plantation should be made annually in February or March. If +allowed to occupy the same plot of land year after year the leaves +become small and the stems wiry.</p> + +<p><b>Parsley</b> (<i>Carum Petroselinum</i>) will teach those who have eyes exactly +how it should be grown. There will appear here and there in a garden +stray or rogue Parsley plants. No matter how regularly the hoeing and +weeding may be done, a stray Parsley plant will occasionally appear +alone, perhaps in the midst of Lettuces, or Cauliflowers, or Onions. +When these rogues escape destruction they become superb plants, and the +gardener sometimes leaves them to enjoy the conditions they have +selected, and in which they evidently prosper. The lesson for the +cultivator is, that Parsley should have plenty of room from the very +first; and this lesson, we feel bound to say, cannot be too often +enforced upon young gardeners, for they are apt to sow Parsley far more +thickly than is wise, and to be injuriously slow and timid in thinning +the crop when the plants are crowding one another.</p> + +<p>Parsley, like many other good things, will grow almost anywhere and +anyhow, but to make a handsome crop a deep, rich, moist soil is +required. It attains to fine quality on a well-tilled clay, but the +kindly loam that suits almost every vegetable is adapted to produce +perfect Parsley, and every good garden should show a handsome sample, +for beauty is the first required qualification. To keep the house fairly +well supplied sowings should be made in February, May, and July. The +first of these will be in gentle heat. When large enough prick out the +plants into boxes, or on to a mild hot-bed, and transfer to the open +ground at the end of April, allowing each plant a space of one foot each +way. In the open, it is best to sow in <a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>lines one foot apart, and thin +out first to three inches, and finally to six inches, the strongest of +the seedlings being put out one foot apart. By following this plan +sufficient supplies for a small household may be obtained from one +annual sowing made in April. It should not be overlooked that Parsley is +indispensable to exhibitors of vegetables, especially as a groundwork +for collections, and due allowance for such calls must be made in fixing +the number and extent of the sowings. When the plant pushes for seed it +becomes useless, and had best be got rid of; but by planting at various +times in different places a sufficiency may be expected to go through a +second season without bolting, after which it will be necessary to root +them out and consign them to the rubbish-heap. Parsley is often grown as +an edging, but it is only in large gardens that this can be done +advantageously, and then a very handsome edging is secured. In small +gardens it is best to sow on a bed in lines one foot apart, and thin out +first to three inches, and finally to six inches, the strongest of the +thinnings being planted a foot apart, to last over as proposed above. +When Parsley has stood some time it becomes coarse, but the young growth +may be renewed by cutting over; this operation being also useful to +defer the flowering, which is surely hastened by leaving the plants +alone. For the winter supply a late plantation made in a sheltered spot +will usually suffice, for the plant is very hardy; but it may be +expedient sometimes to put old frames over a piece worth keeping, or to +protect during hard weather with dry litter. A few plants lifted into +five-inch pots and placed in a cool house will often tide over a +difficult period. In gathering, care should be taken to pick separately +the young leaves that are nearly full grown, and to take only one or two +from each plant. It costs no more time to fill a basket by taking a leaf +or two here and there from a whole row than to strip two or three +plants, and the difference in the end will be considerable as regards +the total produce and quality of the crop.</p> + +<p><b>Pennyroyal</b> (<i>Mentha Pulegium</i>) is a native perennial which must be +propagated by divisions, and this can be done either in spring or +autumn. The rows may be twelve or fifteen inches apart, but in the rows +the plants do well at a distance of eight inches. The taste for +Pennyroyal is by no means universal, but some persons like the tender +tops in culinary preparations. The belief in its supposed medicinal +virtues is slowly dying.</p> + +<p><b>Purslane</b> (<i>Portulaca oleracea</i>).—This annual plant thrives best in a +sunny position. Seed should be sown from mid-April onwards <a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>to insure a +succession of young leaves and shoots which may be cooked as a vegetable +or eaten raw as a salad. Space the rows nine inches apart and thin the +plants to a distance of six inches.</p> + +<p><b>Rampion</b> (<i>Campanula Rapunculus</i>).—Both leaves and roots are used in +winter salads; the roots are also boiled. If the seed be sown earlier +than the end of May the plants are liable to bolt. Choose a shady +situation where the soil is rich and light, and do not stint water. The +rows need not exceed six inches apart, and four inches in the rows will +be a sufficient space between plants.</p> + +<p><b>Rosemary</b> (<i>Rosmarinus officinalis</i>).—A hardy evergreen shrub easily +grown from seed, the leaves of which are used for making Rosemary tea +for relieving headache. An essential oil is also obtained by +distillation. A dry, warm, sunny border suits the plant. Sow in April +and May.</p> + +<p><b>Rue</b> (<i>Ruta graveolens</i>).—A hardy evergreen shrub, chiefly cultivated +for its medicinal qualities. The leaves are acrid, and emit a pungent +odour when handled. The plant is shrubby, and as it attains a height of +two or three feet it occupies a considerable space. Sow in April.</p> + +<p><b>Sage</b> (<i>Salvia officinalis</i>).—Although Sage can be raised from seed +with a minimum of trouble, yet this is one of the few instances where it +is an advantage to propagate plants from a good stock. The difference +will be obvious to any gardener who will grow seedlings by the side of +propagated plants. Still, seedlings are often raised, and as annuals the +plants are quite satisfactory. Sow under glass in February and March, +and in open ground during April and May. Prick off the seedlings into a +nursery bed before transferring to final positions, in which each plant +should be allowed a space of fifteen inches.</p> + +<p><b>Savory, Summer</b> (<i>Satureia hortensis</i>).—An aromatic seasoning and +flavouring herb, which must be raised annually from seed. Sow early in +April in drills one foot apart, and thin the plants to six or eight +inches in the rows. Cut the stems when in full flower, and tie in +bunches for winter use.</p> + +<p><b>Savory, Winter</b> (<i>Satureia montana</i>).—A hardy dwarf evergreen which +can be propagated by cuttings; but it is more economically grown from +seed sown at the same time, and treated in the same manner, as Summer +Savory.</p> + +<p><b>Sorrel</b> (<i>Rumex scutalus</i>).—The large-leaved or French Sorrel is not +only served as a separate dish, but is mingled with Spinach, and is also +used as an ingredient in soups, sauces, and salads. Leaves <a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>of the +finest quality are obtainable from plants a year old, and when the crop +has been gathered the ground may with advantage be utilised for some +other purpose. Light soil in fairly good heart suits the plant. The seed +should be sown in March or early April, in shallow drills six or eight +inches apart, and the seedlings must be thinned early, leaving three or +four inches between them in the rows. To keep the bed free from weeds is +the only attention necessary, unless an occasional watering becomes +imperative. In September the entire crop may be transferred to fresh +ground, allowing eighteen inches between the plants, or part may be +drawn and the remainder left at that distance. In the following spring +the flower-stems will begin to rise, and if these are allowed to develop +they reduce the size of the leaves and seriously impair their quality; +hence the heads should be pinched out as fast as they are presented.</p> + +<p><b>Tarragon</b> (<i>Artemisia Dracunculus</i>).—This aromatic herb is used for a +variety of purposes, but is most commonly employed for imparting its +powerful flavour to vinegar. The plant is a perennial, and must be +propagated by divisions in March or April, or by cuttings placed in +gentle heat in spring. Later in the year they will succeed under a +hand-glass in the open. Green leaves are preferable to those which have +been dried, and by a little management a succession of plants is easily +arranged. For winter use roots may be lifted in autumn and placed in +heat. Those who have no facilities for maintaining a supply of green +leaves rely on foliage cut in autumn and dried.</p> + +<p><b>Thyme, Common</b> (<i>Thymus vulgaris</i>).—An aromatic herb, well known in +every garden, and in constant demand for the house. Seedlings are easily +raised from a sowing in April, or the plant can be grown from division +of the roots in spring. Thyme makes a very effective edging, and is +frequently employed for this purpose on dry, well-kept borders.</p> + +<p><b>Thyme, Lemon</b> (<i>Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris</i>).—This plant cannot be +grown from seed; only by division of the roots in March or April. It is +an aromatic herb, generally regarded as indispensable in a well-ordered +garden.</p> + +<p><b>Wormwood</b> (<i>Artemisia Absinthium</i>).—An intensely bitter herb, used for +medicinal purposes. The plant is a hardy perennial, and is usually +propagated in spring by taking cuttings or dividing the roots.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a><b>HORSE-RADISH</b></p> + +<p><b>Cochlearia Armoracia</b></p> + +<p>This vegetable is highly prized as a condiment to roast beef, but as a +rule it is badly grown. The common practice is to consign it to some +neglected corner of the garden, where it struggles for existence, and +produces sticks which are almost worthless for the table. In the same +space a plentiful supply of large handsome sticks may be grown with as +little trouble as Carrots or Parsnips. Choose for the crop a piece of +good open ground, and in preparing it place a heavy dressing of rotten +manure quite at the bottom of each trench. Early in the year select +young straight roots from eight to twelve inches long, each having a +single crown, and plant them one foot apart each way. By the following +autumn these will become large, succulent sticks, which will put to +shame the ugly striplings grown under starving conditions. The roots may +be dug as required; but we do not advocate that method. It is better +practice to clear the whole bed at once, and store the produce in sand +for use when wanted. This plan should be repeated each year, and a fresh +piece of land ought always to be found for the crop.</p> + + +<p><b>KALE</b>—<i>see</i> <b>BORECOLE</b>, <i>page 27</i></p> + + +<p><b>KOHL RABI (KNOL KOHL)</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica oleracea Caulo-rapa</b></p> + +<p>Kohl Rabi, or Knol Kohl, is comparatively little grown in this country, +because we can almost always command tender and tasty Turnips. On the +Continent it is otherwise. There Kohl Rabi may be seen in every market, +and on many a good table, where it proves a most acceptable vegetable. +For all ordinary purposes the green variety is better than the purple. A +small crop of this root should be annually grown in every garden. In +case of failure with Turnips, Kohl Rabi will take their place to tide +over an emergency. When. served it has the flavour of a Turnip with a +somewhat nutty tendency, and may be prepared for table in the same +manner.</p> + +<p>Kohl Rabi is cultivated in much the same way as Turnips. Seed may be +sown at any time from March to August in rows one and a half to two feet +apart. As soon as possible thin the seedlings <a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>to three inches apart in +the rows, and, as the leaves develop, to six inches apart. By drawing +every other plant some small roots may be obtained early, and the +remainder will be left to mature at twelve inches in the rows. The +seedlings may be transplanted, if desired. Keep the ground clean and the +surface open, but care should be taken not to damage the leaves, or in +the least degree to earth up the roots. Any animal that can eat a Turnip +will prefer a Kohl Rabi, and when substituted for the Turnip in feeding +cows, it does not affect the flavour of the milk. The plant is hardy, +and as a rule may stand, to be drawn as wanted, until the spring is far +advanced, when the remnant should be cleared off for the benefit of the +animals on the home farm, or be dug in as manure.</p> + + +<p><b>LEEK</b></p> + +<p><b>Allium Porrum</b></p> + +<p>The leek is not so fully appreciated in the southern parts of England as +it is in the North, and in Scotland and Wales. It is a fine vegetable +where it is well understood, and when stewed in gravy there is nothing +of its class that can surpass it in flavour and wholesomeness. One +reason of its fame in Scotland and the colder parts of Wales is its +exceeding hardiness. The severest winters do not harm the plant, and it +may remain in the open ground until wanted, occasioning no trouble for +storage.</p> + +<p><b>Times of Sowing.</b>—To obtain large handsome specimens of the finest +quality a start must be made in January or early February, and this +early sowing is imperative for the production of Leeks for exhibition, +as the roots must be given a longer season of growth than is generally +allowed for ordinary crops. It is usual to sow in pans or boxes of +moistened soil, placed in a temperature of about 55°. The seeds need +only a very light covering of fine soil. When the seedlings are about +two inches high transfer to shallow boxes of rich soil, spacing them +three inches apart each way, or the finest may be placed in pots of the +32-size, taking care not to break the one slender root on which the +plant depends at this stage. Grow on in the same temperature until +mid-March, when they may be transferred to a cold frame to undergo +progressive hardening in readiness for planting out at a favourable +opportunity in April.</p> + +<p>There may be three sowings of Leek made in the open ground <a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>in February, +March, and April, to insure a succession, and also to make good any +failures. But for most gardens one sowing about the middle of March will +be sufficient. From this sowing it will be an easy matter to secure an +early supply, a main crop, and a late crop, for they may be transplanted +from the seed-bed at a very early stage, and successive thinnings will +make several plantations; and finally, as many can be left in the +seed-bed to mature as will form a proper plantation.</p> + +<p><b>General Cultivation</b>.—The Leek will grow in any soil, and when no +thicker than the finger is useful; indeed, in many places where the soil +is poor and the climate cold it rarely grows larger, but is, +nevertheless, greatly valued. A rich dry soil suits the plant well, and +when liberally grown it attains to a great size, and is very attractive, +with its silvery root and brilliant green top. The economical course of +management consists in thinning and planting as opportunities occur, +beginning as soon as the plants are six inches high, and putting them in +well-prepared ground, which should be thoroughly watered previously, +unless already softened by rain. The distance for planting must depend +upon the nature of the soil and the requirements of the cultivator. For +an average crop, eighteen inches between the rows and six to nine inches +between the plants is sufficient; but to grow large Leeks, they must be +allowed a space of twelve to eighteen inches in the rows. In planting, +first shorten the leaves a little (and very little), then drive down the +dibber, and put the plant in as deep as the base of the leaves, and +close in carefully without pressure. Water liberally, occasionally stir +the ground between plants, and again cut off the tops of the leaves, +when the roots will grow to a large size. If the ground is dangerously +damp or pasty, make a bed for the crop with light rich soil, plant on +the level and mould up as the growth advances. On light land, however, +it is advisable to grow them in trenches, prepared as for Celery. The +largest and whitest should not be left to battle with storms, but those +left in the seed-bed will take no harm from winter weather, and will be +useful when the grandees are eaten. The finest roots that remain when +winter sets in may be taken up in good time and stored in dry sand, and +will keep for at least a month. Any that remain over in spring can +readily be turned to account. As the flower-stems rise nip them out; not +one should be left. The result of this practice will be the formation on +the roots of small roundish white bulbs, which make an excellent dish +when stewed in gravy, and may be used for any purpose in cookery for +which Onions or<a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a> Shallots are employed. They are called ‘Leek Bulbs,’ +and are obtainable only in early summer.</p> + +<p><b>Blanching</b>.—The edible part of the root should be blanched, and this +may be effected in various ways. Drain-pipes not less than two and a +half inches in diameter, and from twelve to fifteen inches in length, +answer well for large stems. Tubes of stiff brown paper are also very +serviceable. Drawing up the earth to the stem as growth develops is a +simple method of blanching, and the edible portion may easily be +increased according to the amount of earthing-up given. Perfect +blanching is of first importance when specimens are wanted for the +exhibition table, and a commencement must be made as soon as the plants +may be said to have thoroughly recovered from the effects of +transplanting.</p> + + +<p><b>LETTUCE</b></p> + +<p><b>Lactuca sativa</b></p> + +<p>The lettuce is the king of salads, and as a cooked vegetable it has its +value; but as it does not compete with the Pea, the Asparagus, or the +Cauliflower, we need not make comparisons, but may proceed to the +consideration of its uses in the uncooked state. Scientific advisers on +diet and health esteem the Lettuce highly for its anti-scorbutic +properties, and especially for its wholesomeness as a corrective. It +supplies the blood with vegetable juices that are needful to accompany +flesh foods when cooked vegetables are unattainable. Our summers are +usually too brief and too cool to permit us to acquire a knowledge of +the real value of the Lettuce, but in Southern Europe and many parts of +the East it becomes a necessary of life, and those large red Lettuces +that are occasionally grown here as curiosities are prized above all +others because of their crisp coolness and refreshing flavour under a +burning sun.</p> + +<p>The numerous varieties may, for practical purposes, be grouped in two +classes—Cabbage and Cos Lettuces. They vary greatly in habit and are +adapted for different purposes, the first group being invaluable for +mixed salads at all seasons, but more especially in winter and early +spring; the second group is most serviceable in the summer season, and +is adapted for a simple kind of salad, the leaves being more crisp and +juicy. A certain number of the two classes should be grown in every +garden, both for their great value to appetite and health, and their +elegance on the table, whether plain or dressed.<a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a> In the selection of +sorts, leading types should be kept in view. Some of the varieties which +have been introduced have no claim to a place in a good list, because of +their coarseness. Although they afford a great bulk of blanched +material, it is too often destitute of flavour, or altogether +objectionable. The best types are tender and delicately flavoured, +representing centuries of cultivation, and the sub varieties of these +types should retain their leading characteristics, though perhaps they +are more hardy and stand longer, and are therefore much to be desired.</p> + +<p><b>Preparation of the Soil</b>.—The Lettuce requires a light, rich soil, but +almost any kind of soil may be so prepared as to insure a fair supply, +and in places where fine Cos Lettuces are not readily obtained, it may +be possible to grow excellent Cabbage varieties in place of them. A +tolerably good garden soil will answer for both classes, and fat stable +manure should be liberally used. The best way to prepare ground for the +summer crop is to select a piece that has been trenched, and go over it +again, laying in a good body of rough green manure, one spade deep, so +that the plant will be put on unmanured ground, but will reach the +manure at the very period when it is needed, by which time contact with +the earth will have rendered it sweet and mellow. By this mode of +procedure the finest growth is secured, and the plants stand well +without bolting, as they, are saved from the distress consequent on +continued dry weather. As regards drought, it must be said that the +red-leaved kinds stand remarkably well in a hot summer, and although +they do not rank high as table Lettuces in this country, were we to +experience a succession of roasting summers they would rise in repute +and be in great demand. Cabbage Lettuces bear drought fairly well, more +especially the diminutive section; but where water is available Lettuces +have as good a claim to a share of it in a dry, hot season, as any crop +in the garden.</p> + +<p><b>Blanching</b>.—A first-class strain of White Cos Lettuce will produce +tender white hearts without being tied, and, as a rule, therefore, the +labour of tying may be saved. The section of which Sutton’s Superb White +Cos is the type may be said to produce better samples without tying than +with this imaginary aid to blanching. The market grower is still +accustomed to tie Lettuces because they are more easily packed and +travel better when tied, but when tying is practised it need not be done +until one or two days before the Lettuces are cut. The coarser market +kinds certainly are improved by tying, and in this case the operation +must be performed when <a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>the plants are quite dry, and not more than ten +days in advance of the day on which it is intended to pull them. The +Bath Cos must be tied always, and when well managed the heart is white, +with a pretty touch of pink in the centre.</p> + +<p><b>Spring-sown Lettuces</b> may be forwarded under glass from January to +March, from which time sowings may be made successively in the open +ground. In any and every case the finest Lettuces are obtained by sowing +in the open ground, and leaving the plants to finish in the seed-bed +without being transplanted. It will, of course, occur to the practical +cultivator that the two systems may be combined, so as to vary the time +of turning in, and thus from a single sowing insuring a longer +succession than is possible by one system only. We will suppose small +sowings made of three or four sorts in January or early in February, and +put into a gentle heat to start them. A very little care will keep them +going nicely, and of course they must have light and air to any extent +commensurate with safety. When about three weeks old, it will be +advisable to prick these out into a bed of light rich earth in frames; +or if the season is backward, and they need a little more nursing, prick +them into large shallow boxes, containing two or three inches of soil, +which will be sufficient provided it consists in great part of decayed +manure, kept always moist enough for healthy growing. The next step will +be to plant them out about six inches apart, with a view to draw a +certain number as soon as they are large enough to be useful, leaving +the remainder at nine to twelve inches, taking care to thin out in time +to prevent any leaves overlapping. If Peas are being grown under glass, +a few plants of an early Cabbage variety may be put out between the +rows, or they may be pricked out on the borders of a Peach-house, in +either case spacing the plants nine inches apart. Successive sowings +made in February and March will be treated in the same way, and will +need less nursing. In planting out, it is important to have the +seedlings well hardened, for they are naturally susceptible to wind and +sunshine, and if suddenly exposed to either will be likely to perish. +Again, when first planted out their delicate leaves will attract all the +slugs and snails in the garden, and the discreet way of acting is to +regard a plantation of Lettuce as an extensive vermin trap, and thus, +knowing where the marauders are, to be ready to catch and kill, or to +destroy them by sprinklings of lime, salt, or soot, in all cases being +careful to keep these agents at a reasonable distance from the plants.</p> + +<p>Sowings in the open ground from the end of March onwards <a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>should be +made, not on an ordinary seed-bed, but on a plot loaded with rich manure +at one spit deep, and the seed should be put in shallow drills one foot +apart. From the time the young plants are two inches high they must be +drawn freely for ‘Cutting Lettuce,’ or for planting out elsewhere; this +thinning to proceed until a sufficient crop remains to finish off on the +ground. The value of ‘Cutting Lettuce’ is better understood on the +Continent than in this country. The small tender plants are in daily +use, and appear in the salad bowl with Water Cress and Corn Salad, +delicately dressed with delicious flavourings. After this brief +digression it is necessary to add that a crowded Lettuce crop is an +encumbrance to the ground; and one of the evils of the best system, that +of sowing where the crop is to finish, is the tendency of the cultivator +to be timid in the thinning, which should be done with a bold hand, and +in good time.</p> + +<p><b>July and August Sowing</b>.—From sowings made during these months the +supply of Lettuce from the open ground may be extended throughout the +autumn, and even into December or January should the weather prove +favourable. The main conditions essential to success are, the use of +quick-growing varieties, sowing in good soil where the heads are to +mature, and early and severe thinning. The thinnings may be transplanted +if required.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Lettuces</b> are produced and provided for in various ways. In some +places Lettuces stand out the winter without covering, and turn in early +in the spring. But in other districts they seldom survive the winter +without protection, even when the sparrows spare them. The summer +sowings will afford supplies to a late season of the year, and the crop +that remains when frost sets in may be preserved with slight and rough +protection. But for the profitable production of Winter Lettuces frames +are a necessity, and care must be taken not to promote a strong growth, +for after a term of mild winter weather a sudden and severe frost will +probably annihilate those that are in a too thriving condition. In the +least likely places, however, it is well to have a small plantation of +Winter Lettuces in the open, and to give some rough protection in bad +times, as these often prove of great advantage, and even outlive frame +crops which have been allowed to get too forward by the aid of warmth +and a rich soil.</p> + +<p>For winter and spring use sowings should commence in August and be +continued, according to requirements, until the middle of October, after +which it is waste of time and seed to sow any more.<a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a> The August and +September sowings may be made partly on an open border and partly in +frames, but the October sowings must be in frames only, for winter may +overtake them in the seed-leaf. The seedlings must in all cases be +thinned and pricked out as soon as large enough, and should be planted +in fine soil, free from recent manure, being carefully handled to avoid +needless check. Some should be planted in frames on beds of light soil +near the glass, at three inches apart, and when these meet they must be +thinned for the house as may be necessary: the remainder of the +thinnings may be put out on warm borders at six inches, and, if quite +convenient, a crop should be left in the seed-bed at six inches. From +the frames, the supplies will be ready in time to follow those from late +summer sowings, and thus through the winter until the frames are cleared +out for the work of the spring. The frame crop must have plenty of air, +and be kept as hardy as possible, but with moisture enough to sustain a +steady healthy growth. If roughly handled in the planting, or a little +starved in respect of moisture, the plants will rise from the centre +just when they ought to begin to turn in, and the first few days of warm +sunshine will start them in the wrong way. As to those wintered out, +there are many ways of protecting them, and when success has crowned the +effort there will be a crowded plant. It will be necessary, therefore, +to transplant at least half the crop by lifting every other one. This +must be done with care, as though they were worth a guinea each. By +transplanting early in March to a piece of rich light ground in a warm +spot, and doing the work neatly and smartly, the result will be a +valuable crop of early Summer Lettuce, while those that remain will help +through the spring.</p> + +<p><b>Forcing.</b>—Lettuces do not force well; but as they are so constantly in +demand, it is a matter of importance to grow them in every possible way. +Nice promising plants from August and September sowings may be selected +from the frames, and planted on gentle hot-beds from November to +January, and will do well if tenderly lifted. The Commodore Nutt and +Golden Ball are the best of the Cabbage varieties for forcing. The Cos +varieties do not differ much as to forcing, none of them being well +adapted for the purpose; but the Superb White Cos may be brought to fine +condition by taking time enough, so as to make a very moderate warmth +suffice. On sunny days the heat should not exceed 75°; but 65° is +sufficient, with a night temperature of 45°to 50°.</p> + +<p>One other method of providing small delicate salading may be <a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>adopted to +meet emergencies. On the barrows of itinerant greengrocers in Paris the +thinnings of Lettuce crops form part of the general stock, and in this +country we do not sufficiently utilise this young tender stuff. But we +have now in view the use of Lettuce in a still earlier stage of growth. +By sowing rather thinly in boxes, kept under glass, a dense growth is +produced in a short time which can be cut in the same manner as Mustard. +For this purpose Sutton’s Winter Gathering is especially valuable, or +one of the best White Cos varieties should be sown.</p> + + +<p><b>MAIZE and SUGAR CORN</b></p> + +<p><b>Zea Mays</b></p> + +<p>Maize is a tender plant of great beauty that may be grown as a table +vegetable, a forage plant, or a corn crop; but in the last-named +capacity it is rarely profitable in this country, owing to the brevity +of our summers. As an ornamental plant it is entitled to consideration, +and the more so because, while adorning the garden with its noble +outlines and splendid silken tufts, it will at the same time supply to +the table the green cobs that are so much valued when cooked and served +in the same manner as Asparagus.</p> + +<p>There is a simple rough and ready way of growing Maize, the first step +towards which is to prepare a deep rich soil, in a sunny and sheltered +situation. Late in April or early in May dibble the seeds two inches +deep, in rows two feet asunder and one foot apart in the rows. When the +plants have made some progress, remove every other one, these thinnings +to be destroyed or planted at discretion. Plants may also be started +under glass by sowing seeds in gentle heat in April. Prick off into pots +and gradually harden for transfer to the open. The crop will almost take +care of itself when the weather is warm enough to suit it. But a deluge +of water may be given during the hottest weather. In its native country, +and indeed wherever Maize thoroughly thrives, it is dependent on +frequent storms.</p> + + +<p><b>MELON</b></p> + +<p><b>Cucumis Melo</b></p> + +<p>The popularity of this cool and delicious fruit has in recent years been +greatly enhanced by increased knowledge as to the best method of +treating the plant, and also by the introduction of several varieties +<a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>which are attractive in form and superb in flavour. It would shock a +modern Melon eater to be advised to cook a Melon, and flavour it with +vinegar and salt, as in the early days of English gardening. A good +Melon of the present day does not even need the addition of sugar; the +beauty, aroma, and flavour are such that it is not unusual for the +epicure to push the luscious Pine aside in order to enjoy this cool, +fresh, gratifying fruit that delights without cloying the palate. The +newer varieties are remarkable alike for fruitfulness and high quality, +and are somewhat hardier than the favourites of years gone by.</p> + +<p>The Melon is grown in much the same way as the Cucumber, but it differs +in requiring a firmer soil, a higher temperature, a much stronger light, +less water, and more air. It may be said that no man should attempt to +grow Melons until he has had some experience in growing Cucumbers. As +regards this point, the hard and fast line is useless, but +Cucumber-growing is certainly a good practical preparative for the +higher walk wherein the Melon is found. But Cucumbers are grown +advantageously all the winter through; Melons are not. The former are +eaten green, and the latter are eaten ripe; this makes all the +difference. Melons that are ripened between October and May are seldom +worth the trouble bestowed upon them; therefore we shall say nothing +about growing Melons in winter.</p> + +<p><b>The Frame Culture</b> may with advantage begin about the middle of March +by the preparation of a good hot-bed. It is best to use a three-light +frame, as the heat will be more constant than with one of smaller size. +There should be six loads of stuff laid up for the bed, and the turning +should be sufficient to take out the fire, without materially reducing +the fermenting power. Begin a fortnight in advance of making up the bed, +and be careful at every stage to do things well, as advised for the +cultivation of frame Cucumbers. The best soil for Melons is a firm, +turfy loam, nine inches of which should be placed on top of the manure. +In a clay district, a certain amount of clay, disintegrated by frost, +may be chopped over with turfy loam from an old pasture. If the soil is +poor, decayed manure should be added, but the best possible Melons may +be grown in a fertile loam without the aid of manures or stimulants of +any kind. It is good practice to raise the plants in pots, and have them +strong enough to plant out as soon as the newly-made beds have settled +down to a steady temperature of about 80°, but below 70° will be unsafe. +If plants cannot be prepared in advance, seed must be sown on the bed, +and as a precaution against accidents and to permit of the <a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>removal of +those which show any sign of weakness, a sufficient number of seeds +should be sown to provide for contingencies.</p> + +<p>As regards the bed, it may be made once and for all at the time of +planting, a few days being allowed for warming the soil through. But we +much prefer to begin with smallish hillocks, or with a thin sharp ridge +raised so as almost to touch the lights, and to plant or sow on this +ridge, which can be added to from time to time as the plants require +more root room. The soil, coming fresh and fresh, sustains a vigorous +and healthy root action. The high ridge favours the production of stout +leaves, and the absorption by the soil of sun-heat is to the Melon of +the first importance.</p> + +<p>The practice of pruning Melons as if the plants were grown for fodder, +and might be chopped at for supplies of herbage, must be heartily +condemned. Melons should never be so crowded as to necessitate cutting +out, except in a quite trivial manner. A free and vigorous plant is +needed, and under skilful attention it will rarely happen that there is +a single leaf anywhere that can be spared. We will propose a practical +rule that we have followed in growing Melons for seed, of which a large +crop of the most perfect fruits is absolutely needful to insure a fair +return. The young plants are pinched when there are two rough leaves. +The result is two side shoots. These are allowed to produce six or seven +leaves, and are then pinched. After this, the plants are permitted to +run, and there is no more pinching or pruning until the crop is visible. +Then the fruits that are to remain must be selected, and the shoots be +pinched to one eye above each fruit, and only one fruit should remain on +a shoot; the others must be removed a few at a time. All overgrowth must +be guarded against, for crowded plants will be comparatively worthless. +It is not by rudely cutting out that crowding is to be prevented, but by +timely pinching out every shoot that is likely to prove superfluous. +From first to last there must be a regular plant, and not a shoot should +be allowed to grow that is not wanted. Cutting out may produce canker, +and crowding results in sterility.</p> + +<p>As the Melon is required to ripen its fruits, and the Cucumber is not, +the treatment varies in view of this difference. It is not necessary to +fertilise the female flowers of the Cucumber, but it is certainly +desirable, if not absolutely necessary, to operate on those of the Melon +to insure a crop. The early morning, when the leaves are dry and the sun +is shining, is the proper time for this task, which is described in a +later paragraph. And the necessity for ripening the crop marks another +difference of management, for Cucumbers may <a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>carry many fruits, and +continue producing them until the plants are exhausted. But the +production of Melons must be limited to about half a dozen on each +plant, and good management requires that these should all ripen at the +same time, or nearly so, fully exposed to the sun, and with plenty of +ventilation.</p> + +<p>The requisite supply of water is an important matter. The plant should +never be dry at the root, and must have a light shower twice a day over +the leafage, but the moisture which is necessary for Cucumbers would be +excessive for Melons. It is a golden rule to grow Melons liberally, +keeping them sturdy by judicious air-giving, and to give them a little +extra watering just as they are coming into flower. Then, as the flowers +open, the watering at the root should be discontinued, and the syringe +should be used in the evening only at shutting up. If discontinued +entirely, red spider will appear, and the crop will be in jeopardy, for +that pest can be kept at a distance only by careful regulation of +atmospheric moisture.</p> + +<p>Melons in frames do better spread out on the beds than when trained on +trellises. When so grown, each fruit must be supported with a flat tile +or an inverted flower-pot, and means must be taken, by pegs or +otherwise, to prevent it from rolling off, for the twist of stem that +ensues may check the fruit or cause it to fall. When the fruits are as +large as the top joint of a man’s thumb, watering may be resumed, and +the syringe used twice a day until the fruit begins to change colour, +when there must be a return to the dry system, but with care to avoid +carrying it to a dangerous extreme.</p> + +<p><b>The Melon-house</b>, heated by hot water, is adapted to supply fruit +earlier than is obtainable by frame culture, and is entirely superior to +any frame or pit. It appears, however, that in Melon-houses red spider +is more frequently seen than in frames heated by fermenting material; +but this point rests on management, and there can be nothing more +certain than that a reasonable employment of atmospheric humidity may be +made effectual for preventing and removing this pest. For the convenient +cultivation of the crop a lean-to or half-span is to be preferred. The +width should not exceed twelve feet, and ten to twelve feet should be +the utmost height of the roof. A service of pipes under the bed will be +required; but as Melons are not grown in winter, the heating of a +Melon-house is a simple affair, and, indeed, very much of the +cultivation as the summer advances will be carried on by the aid of +sun-heat only. The treatment of the plants in a house differs from the +frame management, because a trellis is employed, and the plants are +taken up the trellis without stopping <a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>until they nearly reach the top, +when the points are pinched out to promote the growth of side shoots. In +setting the fruit, the same principles prevail as in frame culture, and +it is advisable to ‘set’ the whole crop at once; if two or three fruits +obtain a good start, others that are set later will drop off. As the +fruits swell, support must be afforded to prevent any undue strain on +the vine, and this should be accomplished by nets specially made for the +purpose, or by suspending small flat boards of half-inch deal with +copper wires, each fruit resting on its board, until the cracking round +the stem gives warning that the fruit should be cut and placed in the +fruit room for a few days to complete the ripening for the table. In +houses of the kind described Melons and Cucumbers are occasionally grown +together. But although this may be done, and there are many cultivators +expert in the business, the practice cannot be recommended, for ships +that sail near the wind will come to grief some day. The moisture and +partial shade that suit the Cucumber do not suit the Melon, and it is a +poor compromise to make one end of the house shady and moist, and the +other end sunny and dry, to establish different conditions with one +atmosphere. A glass partition pretty well disposes of the difficulty, +because it is then possible to insure two atmospheres suitable for two +different operations. (<i>See also pages 157, 175, and 184.</i>)</p> + +<p><b>The Pollination of Melons</b> is performed by plucking the mature male +blooms, and after the removal of the petals, transferring the pollen of +the male flower to the stigma of the female flower.</p> + + +<p><b>MERCURY</b></p> + +<p><b>Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus</b></p> + +<p>This perfectly hardy vegetable, known also by the name of Good King +Henry, is much grown in Lincolnshire. The leaves are used in the same +way as Spinach, and by earthing up the shoots they may be blanched as a +substitute for Asparagus. Sow the seeds during April in drills twelve +inches apart, and in due course thin the seedlings to one foot apart in +the rows.</p> + + +<p><b>MUSHROOM</b></p> + +<p><b>Agaricus campestris</b></p> + +<p>The Mushroom has many friends among all classes, few benevolent +neutrals, and fewer still who are absolutely hostile to it as an article +<a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>of food. Those who find, or imagine they find, that this delicacy does +not agree with them, might possibly arrive at another conclusion were a +different mode of preparation adopted, or were the consumption of it +accompanied with a full persuasion that the Mushroom is not merely +delicious in flavour, but thoroughly wholesome, rich in flesh-forming +constituents, and, for a vegetable, possessed of more than the average +proportion of fat-formers and minerals. These facts have been clearly +established by chemical analysis, and may dispose of timid misgivings, +always supposing the true edible Mushroom, <i>Agaricus campestris</i>, to be +in question.</p> + +<p>Hitherto the artificial production of Mushrooms has never been equal to +the demand. Notwithstanding the enormous quantities sent to Covent +Garden by the growers around London, many tons are imported from France, +although it is generally admitted that they are neither so fine nor so +rich in flavour as those produced in this country. If, however, the +large centres of population are inadequately supplied, the scarcity of +Mushrooms is more keenly felt in the provinces, except, perhaps, in +certain favoured districts, where, after a few warm days in autumn, an +abundant crop may be gathered from the neighbouring pastures. Then there +is a brave show in the greengrocers’ windows for a brief period, +followed by entire dearth for weeks, and perhaps months. Obviously, +therefore, the demand, large as it already is, might be immensely +augmented by a commensurate supply. Yet it is not only possible but +quite easy to grow Mushrooms for the greater part of the year in very +small gardens, even when such gardens are entirely destitute of the +appliances usually considered necessary for the higher flights of +horticulture. The idea that Mushroom-growing is somewhat of a mystery, +forbidden to all but the strictly initiated, has happily been dispelled. +If we examine the conditions under which Mushrooms grow freely in +pastures, it is surprising how few and simple are the elements of +success. The crop generally appears in September, when temperature is +genial and fairly equable, with sufficient but not superabundant +moisture. The artificial production of Mushrooms in the garden needs +only reliable spawn, a sweet fertile bed, and some means of maintaining +a steady temperature under varying atmospheric conditions. When the +principles of Mushroom culture are thoroughly mastered, they may be +successfully applied in many different ways, and they render the +practical work easy and tolerably certain.</p> + +<p><b>The Spawn.</b>—Although the Mushroom may be grown from seed, it is seldom +done except for strictly scientific purposes. The <a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>seeds are, however, +largely disseminated by Nature, and, having found a suitable home, they +germinate and produce an underground growth which at a hasty glance +resembles mildew. It really consists of white gossamer-like films, which +increase in number and distinctness as they develop, until they push +their way towards the surface, and give rise to the growth above ground +of the Mushroom. It follows that if we do not begin the cultivation with +seeds or spores, we must resort to the white films or ‘mycelium,’ that +the growth of the plant may begin in Nature’s own way below ground. What +is called ‘Mushroom Spawn’ consists of certain materials from the stable +and the field, mixed and prepared in such a manner as to favour the +development of the mycelium of the Mushroom. When dried, the cakes have +the appearance of an unburnt brick. The preparation of the spawn, though +a very simple matter, demands the skill and care of experienced +operators. If the work is not well done, the spawn will be of poor +quality, and will yield a meagre crop, or perhaps fail to produce a +single Mushroom. Whether the cakes or bricks are impregnated in the +manner long practised in this country, or direct from the tissue of the +Mushroom, the culture remains the same. Provided that the spawn is good, +it has but to be broken into lumps of a suitable size, and inserted in +the bed, to impregnate the entire mass with the necessary white films. +These will take their time to collect from the soil the alkalies and +phosphates of which Mushrooms principally consist, and this part of +their work being done, the fruits of their labours will be displayed +above ground in the elegant and sweet-smelling fungus that few human +appetites can resist when it is placed upon the table in the way that it +deserves. Experts can readily form an opinion as to whether a cake of +Mushroom spawn is or is not in a fit state for planting, and it will be +a safe proceeding for the amateur to buy from a Firm which has a large +and constant sale; otherwise, spawn may be purchased which was +originally well made and properly impregnated, but has lost its vitality +through long keeping.</p> + +<p><b>Soil.</b>—As to soil, it is well known that in a favourable autumn +Mushrooms abound in old rich pastures, and those who have command of +turf cut from a field of this character have only to stack the sods +grass side downwards for a year or two, and they will be in possession +of first-class material for Mushroom beds either in the open or under +cover. But small gardens, particularly in towns, have no such bank to +honour their drafts, and for these it becomes a question of buying a +load or two of turfy loam, or of making the <a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>soil of the garden answer, +perhaps with a preliminary enrichment by artificial manure. In the +general interests of the garden, the money for a limited quantity of +good loam would probably be well spent, independently of the question of +Mushrooms. No great bulk is necessary to cover a moderate-sized Mushroom +bed, but the quality of the soil will certainly have an influence on the +number and character of the Mushrooms. As a proof of the exhaustive +nature of the fungus, it almost invariably happens that when the soil is +used a second time it tends to diminish the size and lower the quality +of the crop.</p> + +<p><b>Manure.</b>—In the management of the manure two essentials must be borne +in mind. Not only is nourishment for the plant required, but warmth +also. Probably a large proportion of the failures to grow Mushrooms +might, if all the facts were known, be traced to some defect in the +manure employed, or to some fault in its preparation. It must be rich in +the properties which encourage and support the development of Mushrooms, +absolutely free from the least objectionable odour, for the plant is +most fastidious in its demand for sweetness, although it can dispense +with light; and there must remain in the manure when made into a bed a +sufficient reserve of fermentation to insure prolonged heat, no matter +what the temperature of the atmosphere may be. Of course, the duration +of the heat will depend very much on the care with which it is conserved +by suitable covering and management. These requirements, formidable as +they may seem, can be insured with extreme ease; indeed, the work is +apparently far more difficult and complicated on paper than it proves to +be in practice.</p> + +<p><b>Preparation of the Bed.</b>—The manure should come from stables occupied +by horses in good health, fed exclusively on hard food. The most +suitable store is the floor of a dry shed, or under some protection +which will prevent the loss of vital forces. Ammonia, for example, is +readily dissipated in the atmosphere or washed away by rain. The manure +should neither be allowed to become dust dry, nor to waste its power in +premature fermentation. Operations may be commenced with three or four +loads. A smaller quantity increases the difficulty of maintaining the +requisite temperature when fermentation begins to flag. The first +procedure is to make the manure into a high oblong heap well trodden +down. If the stuff be somewhat dry, a sprinkling of water over every +layer will be necessary. In a few days fermentation will make the heap +hot all through, and then it must be taken to pieces and remade, putting +<a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>all the outside portions into the interior, with the object of insuring +equal fermentation of the entire bulk. This process will have to be +repeated several times at intervals of three or four days until the +manure has not only been fermented but sweetened. When ready it will be +of a dark colour, soft, damp enough to be cohesive under pressure, but +not sufficiently damp to part with any of its moisture, and almost +odourless; at all events the odour will not be objectionable, but may be +suggestive of Mushrooms. Make a long bed, having a base about four feet +wide, and sides sloping to a ridge like the roof of a house, with this +difference—the narrow part of the ridge is useless, and the top should, +therefore, be rounded off when about a foot across. Some growers prefer +a circular bed of six or eight feet diameter at the bottom and tapering +towards a point, after the shape of a military tent; but here again the +point will be worthless, and the bed may terminate abruptly. Either the +long bed or the round heap answers admirably. Tread the manure down +compactly, and for the sake of appearances endeavour to finish it off in +a workmanlike manner. During the first few days there will be a +considerable rise in the temperature, which will gradually subside, and +when the plunging thermometer shows that it has settled down to a +comfortable condition of about 80° the bed must be spawned. Experienced +men can determine by the sense of touch when the temperature is right, +but the inexperienced should rely entirely on the thermometer. The +question will arise as to the period of the year when operations should +be commenced. Well, the experts who grow Mushrooms in the open ground +for market gather crops almost the year round; but a beginner will do +wisely to start under the most favourable natural conditions, and these +will be found about midsummer, because the bed will commence bearing +before winter creates difficulty as to temperature.</p> + +<p><b>Spawning and After-management.</b>—Break each cake of spawn into eight or +ten pieces, and force every piece gently a little way into the manure at +regular intervals of six to nine inches all over the bed, closing the +manure over and round each piece of spawn. The practice of inserting +spawn by means of the dibber is to be strongly condemned, for it leaves +smooth, hollow spaces which arrest the mycelium; and very small pieces +of spawn should be avoided because they generally result in small +Mushrooms. Immediately the spawning is completed, a thick and even +covering of clean straw or litter of some kind should be laid over the +bed, secured from wind by canvas, mats, hurdles, or in some other way. +From good spawn <a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>the films of mycelium will begin to extend within a +week. In the contrary case an examination of the pieces will show that +they have become darker than when put into the bed, which means that +they have perished. Then the question will arise as to whether the bed +or the spawn is at fault, and the former must either be spawned again or +broken up. Supposing the spawn to show signs of vitality, the time has +come for covering the bed with a layer of rather moist soil, pressed +lightly but firmly on to the manure with the spade or fork, so that the +earth will not slip down. At once restore the covering of litter, &c., +and wait patiently for about seven or eight weeks for the crop. +Meanwhile the plunging thermometer ought to be consulted daily. Until +the Mushrooms appear the instrument should not indicate less than 60°, +and while in bearing not less than 55°. Experience proves that the most +violent alternations of temperature may be combated by regulating the +thickness of the covering. Although it may possibly be necessary to +resort to eighteen inches of litter or more during hard frost or the +prevalence of a cutting east wind, a much thinner covering will suffice +in milder weather.</p> + +<p>Should the temperature of the bed, through inexperience in the +management of it, sink below the point at which Mushrooms can grow, we +advise the exercise of a little patience. We have known several +instances of beds made in autumn producing no crop at the expected time, +but which have borne fairly in the following spring or summer. But in +the event of the first effort failing outright there is no great loss. +The manure, which is the most costly item, will still be available for +the garden, and an observant man will pretty well understand in what +respect he must amend his course of procedure.</p> + +<p><b>Water.</b>—Moisture is of great consequence, for a dry Mushroom bed will +soon be barren also; but whenever water is given it must be applied +tepid and from a fine rose. To slop cold water over a Mushroom bed is +about as reasonable a procedure as putting ice into hot soup. Water is +best administered in the afternoon of a genial day, and should be +sufficient to saturate the bed. Immediately it is done the covering of +litter and canvas must be promptly restored to prevent the temperature +from being seriously lowered by rapid evaporation. A couple of stakes +driven from the crown to the bottom of the bed at the time of making up +the heap are useful as indicators of moisture, and may occasionally be +drawn out and examined.</p> + +<p><b>In gathering the crop,</b> only a small portion of the bed should be +uncovered at a time. This should be the rule at all seasons, and <a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>the +strict observance of it will prevent a mistake in cold weather, for +then, if the bed is carelessly uncovered and much chilled, the crop will +come to an end, when perhaps it would, if properly handled, be at high +tide and full of profit. Another rule should be enforced, to this +effect, that every Mushroom must be taken out complete, and if the root +does not come with the stem, it must be dug out with a knife. Any +trifling with this rule will prove a costly mistake. The stem of a +Mushroom, if left in the ground, will produce nothing at all. But it may +attract flies, and it certainly will interfere with the movements of the +mycelium at that particular spot, and actually prevent the production of +any more Mushrooms. The old practitioners were accustomed to leave the +stem in the ground, and they were content with about one-third of the +crop now produced on beds that are, perhaps, not better made than were +theirs. But they had a notion about the powers of the root which +increased knowledge of the subject has shown to be fallacious.</p> + +<p><b>In Pastures.</b>—As already indicated, Mushrooms are often to be found in +abundance in well-stocked pastures during the late summer months, and +where favourable conditions exist it is an excellent plan to insert +pieces of spawn two inches deep in the turf in June and July.</p> + +<p><b>Turf Pits.</b>—The facility with which Mushrooms may be raised under +simple methods is illustrated by the practice of growing them inside the +turf walls of cool pits. In the country turf walls are common, and they +offer the advantage of growing Mushrooms in addition to the purpose they +usually serve. After determining the size of the pit, and accurately +marking it on the ground, cut the turf into narrow strips, say three or +four inches wide, and of exactly eighteen inches length. The strips +should be closely laid, grass side downwards, across the width of the +walls—not longitudinally—except at the corners, where the layers +should cross each other. The front and back walls to be rather above the +required height, because the turf always scales down a little, and the +two ends must gradually rise from front to back. The top layer may be +right side up, when it will keep green for a long time. As the work +proceeds insert lumps of spawn at intervals in every layer, about three +or four inches from the inside edge. A wooden frame will be requisite on +the top to carry the glass lights. This structure makes a useful cool +pit and a Mushroom bed from which supplies may sometimes be gathered for +years. In the summer it will be necessary to keep the walls moist by +means of the syringe, or they will cease bearing.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a><b>Indoor Beds.</b>—Mushrooms may be grown almost anywhere, evenly in a +cellar, or on the wall of a warm stable, provided only that the mode of +procedure is in a reasonable degree adapted to the requirements of the +fungus. Ordinary pits and frames are also serviceable, and many +gardeners obtain good crops in autumn by the simple process of inserting +a few lumps of spawn in a Cucumber or Melon bed while the plants are +still in bearing. Between spawning and cropping a period of six or eight +weeks usually elapses, so that if the plan just mentioned be adopted, +the spawn should be introduced in the height of summer, both to insure +it a warm bed and to allow time for the crop to mature before the season +runs out. Sheds and outhouses not only afford shelter and space for beds +on the floor, but the walls can be fitted with shelves on which +Mushrooms may be plentifully grown. In all cases the shelves should be +two feet apart vertically, and each shelf should have a ledge nine +inches deep. The walls of a house may be quickly and cheaply fitted with +woodwork for the purpose, but brick is so much better than wood that +whenever it is possible to employ brick it should have the preference. +As regards the ledges, they should be of stout planking in any case, and +should not be fixed, because of the necessity for clearing the shelves +and renewing the soil periodically. The details of cultivation are the +same within doors as without, but the roof gives valuable protection, +and helps to maintain the beds at a suitable temperature.</p> + +<p><b>A proper Mushroom-house</b> for production during winter should be heated +with hot water, and have an opaque roof. There is nothing so good for +the crop as a roof of thatch, but there are many objections to it, and +usually slate is employed. A double roof will pay for its extra cost by +promoting an equable temperature. A few side lights fitted with shutters +are necessary, as there should be a good light for working purposes; but +the crop does not need light, and a more steady temperature can be +maintained in a dark house than in one which has several windows. The +most convenient dimensions for a Mushroom-house are: length, twenty-five +feet; width, twelve feet; height at sides, six feet, to allow of a bed +on the floor, and a shelf four feet above it; the ridge rising +sufficiently for head room, and to shoot off water. There will be room +for a central path of four feet, and a bed of four feet on each side. An +earth or tile floor and a slate or stone shelf will, with one four-inch +flow and return pipe, complete the arrangements. The less wood and the +less concrete the better; there is nothing like porous red tiles for the +<a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>floor and stone for the shelves, with loose planks on edge to keep up +the soil, a few uprights being sufficient to hold them in their places.</p> + +<p><b>Temperatures</b> at every point are of great importance. The bed should be +near 80° when the spawn is inserted. The air temperature requisite to +the rising crop is 60° to 65°, which is the usual temperature of the +season when Mushrooms appear in pastures. While the bed is bearing a +temperature of 55° will suffice, but at any point below this minimum +production will be slow and may come to a stop. When giving water, take +care that it is at a temperature rather above than below that of the +bed.</p> + + +<p><b>MUSTARD</b></p> + +<p><b>Sinapis alba, and S. nigra</b></p> + + +<p>Mustard is much valued as a pungent salad, and for mixing in the bowl it +may take the place of Water Cress when the latter is not at command. +Mustard is often sown with Cress, but it is bad practice, for the two +plants do not grow at the same pace, and there is nothing gained by +mixing them. The proper sort for salading is the common White Mustard, +but Brown Mustard may be used for the purpose. Rape is employed for +market work, but should be shunned in the garden. As the crop is cut in +the seed leaf, it is necessary to sow often, but the frequency must be +regulated by the demand. Supplies may be kept up through the winter by +sowing in shallow boxes, which can be put into vineries, forcing pits, +and other odd places. Boxes answer admirably, as they can be placed on +the pipes if needful; they favour the complete cutting of a crop without +remainders, and this is of importance in the case of a salad that runs +out of use quickly and is so easily produced. From Lady Day to +Michaelmas Mustard may be sown on the open border with other saladings, +but as the summer advances a shady place must be found for it.</p> + + + + +<p><b>ONION</b></p> + +<p><b>Allium Cepa</b></p> + + +<p>The onion has the good fortune to be generally appreciated and well +grown almost everywhere. It enhances the flavour and digestibility of +many important articles of food that would fail to nourish us without +its aid, while to others it adds a zest that contributes <a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>alike to +enjoyment and health. Although there are but few difficulties to be +encountered in the cultivation of the Onion, there is a marked +difference between a well-grown crop and one under poor management. +There is, moreover, what may be termed a fine art department in Onion +culture, one result being special exhibitions, in which handsome bulbs +of great weight are brought forward in competition for the amusement and +edification of the sight-seeing public. Thus, when the first principles +have been mastered, there may be, for the earnest cultivator of this +useful root, many more things to be learned, and that may be worth +learning, alike for their interest and utility.</p> + +<p><b>Treatment of Soil.</b>—The Onion can be grown on any kind of soil, but +poor land must be assisted by liberal manuring. A soil that will not +produce large Onions may produce small ones, and the smallest are +acceptable when no others are to be had. But for handsome bulbs and a +heavy crop a deep rich loam of a somewhat light texture is required, +although an adhesive loam, or even a clay, may be improved for the +purpose; while on a sandy soil excellent results may be obtained by good +management, especially in a wet season. In any case the soil must be +well prepared by deep digging, breaking the lumps, and laying up in +ridges to be disintegrated by the weather, and if needful its texture +should be amended, as far as possible, at the same time. A coat of clay +may be spread over a piece of sand, to be thoroughly incorporated with +it; on the other hand, where the staple is clay, the addition of sand +will be advantageous. All such corrective measures yield an adequate +return if prudently carried out, because it is possible to grow Onions +from year to year on the same ground; and thus in places where the soil +is decidedly unsuitable a plot may be specially prepared for Onions, and +if the first crop does not fully pay the cost, those that follow will do +so. But the plant is not fastidious, and it is easy work almost anywhere +to grow useful Onions. The first step in preparing land is to make it +loose and fine throughout, and as far as possible to do this some time +before the seed is sown. For sowing in spring, the beds should be +prepared in the rough before winter, and when the time comes for +levelling down and finishing, the top crust will be found well +pulverised, and in a kindly state to receive the seed. Stagnant moisture +is deadly to Onions, therefore swampy ground is most unfit; but a +sufficient degree of dryness for a summer crop may often be secured by +trenching, and leaving rather deep alleys between the beds to carry off +surface water during heavy rains.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a><b>Manures.</b>—As almost any soil will suit the Onion, so also will almost +any kind of manure, provided that it be not rank or offensive. This +strongly flavoured plant likes good but sweet living, and it is sheer +folly to load the ground for it with coarse and stimulating manures. Yet +it is often done, and the result is a stiff-necked generation of bulbs +that refuse to ripen, or there may be complete failure of the crop +through disease or plethora. But any fertiliser that is at hand, whether +from the pigstye, or the sweepings of poultry yards or pigeon lofts, may +be turned to account by the simple process of first making it into a +compost with fresh soil, and then digging it in some time in advance of +the season for sowing, and in reasonable but not excessive quantity. All +such aids to plant growth as guano, charcoal, and well-rotted farmyard +manure, may be used advantageously for the Onion crop; but there are two +materials of especial value, and costing least of any, that are +universally employed by large growers, both to help the growth and +prevent maggot and canker. These are lime and soot, which are sown +together when the ground is finally prepared for the seed, and in +quantity only sufficient to colour the ground. They exercise a magical +influence, and those who make money by growing Onions take care to +employ them as a necessary part of their business routine.</p> + +<p><b>Spring-sown Onions</b> require to be put on rich, mellow ground, the top +spit of which is of a somewhat fine texture, and at the time of sowing +almost dry. Having been well dug and manured in good time, the top spit +only should be dug over when it is finally made ready for the seed. The +work must be done with care, and the beds should be marked off in +breadths of four feet, with one-foot alleys between. Break all lumps +with the spade, and work the surface to a regular and finely crumbled +texture. Light soil should be trodden over to consolidate it, and then +the surface may be carefully touched with the rake to prepare it for the +seed. March and April are the usual months for spring sowing, although +in mild districts seed is sometimes put in as early as January. Space +the rows from nine to twelve inches apart, according to the character of +the sort and the size of bulbs required. The drills must be drawn across +the bed, at right angles to the alleys, for when drawn the other way it +is difficult to keep the ground properly weeded. For a crop of Onions +intended for storing, the seed should be only just covered with fine +earth taken from the alleys and thrown over, after which the drills must +be lightly trodden, the surface again touched over with the rake, and if +the soil is dry and works nicely, the business may be finished by gently +<a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>patting the bed all over with the back of the spade. If the ground is +damp or heavy, this final touch may be omitted, as the Onion makes a +weak grass that cannot easily push through earth that is caked over it. +But speaking generally, an Onion bed newly sown should be quite smooth +as if finished with a roller. To the beginner this will appear a +protracted and complicated story, but the expert will attest that Onions +require and will abundantly pay for special management.</p> + +<p>As soon as possible after the crop is visible the ground between should +be delicately chopped over with the hoe to check the weeds that will +then be rising. Immediately the rows are defined a first thinning should +be made with a small hoe, care being taken to leave a good plant on the +ground. The next thinning will produce young Onions for saladings, and +this kind of thinning may be continued by removing plants equally all +over the bed to insure an even crop, the final distance for bulbing +being about six inches. Keep the hoe at work, for if weeds are allowed +to make way, the crop will be seriously injured. When Onions are doing +well they lift themselves up and <i>sit</i> on the earth, needing light and +air upon their bulbs to the very axis whence the roots diverge. If weeds +spread amongst them the bulbs are robbed of air and light, and their +keeping properties are impaired. But in the use of the hoe it is +important not to loosen the ground or to draw any earth towards the +bulbs. When all the thinning has been done, and the weeds are kept down, +it will perhaps be observed that in places there are clusters of bulbs +fighting for a place and rising out of the ground together as though +enjoying the conflict. With almost any other kind of plant this crowding +would bode mischief, but with Onions it is not so. Bulbs that grow in +crowds and rise out of the ground will never be so large as those that +have plenty of room, but they will be of excellent quality, and will +keep better than any that have had ample space for high development. It +is almost a pity to touch these accidental clusters, for the removal of +a portion will perhaps loosen the ground, and so spoil the character of +those that are left. Really fine Onions are rarely produced in loose +ground, hence the necessity for care in the use of the hoe. Watering is +not often needed, and we may go so far as to say that, in a general way, +it is objectionable. But a long drought on light land may put the crop +in jeopardy, unless watering is resorted to, in which case weak manure +water will be beneficial. Still, watering must be discontinued in good +time, or it will prevent the ripening of the bulbs, and if a sign is +wanted the growth will afford it, for from the time the <a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>bulbs have +attained to a reasonable size the water will do more harm than good.</p> + +<p><b>The harvesting of the crop</b> requires as much care as the growing of it. +If all goes well, the bulbs will ripen naturally, and being drawn and +dried on the ground for a few days with their roots looking southward, +may be gathered up and topped and tailed or bunched as may be most +convenient. But there may be a little hesitation of the plant in +finishing growth, the result, perhaps, of cool moist weather, when dry +hot weather would be better. In this case the growth may be checked by +passing a rod (as the handle of a rake for example) over the bed to bend +down the tops. After this the tops will turn yellow, and the necks will +shrink, and advantage must be taken of fine weather to draw the Onions +and lay them out to dry. A gravel path or a dry shed fully open to the +sun will ripen them more completely than the bed on which they have been +grown; but large breadths of Onions must be ripened where they grew, and +experience teaches when they may be drawn with safety.</p> + +<p>As to keeping Onions, any dry, cool, airy place will answer. But if a +difficulty arises there is an easy way out of it, for Onions may be hung +in bunches on an open wall under the shelter of the eaves of any +building, and thus the outsides of barns and stables and cottages may be +converted into Onion stores, leaving the inside free for things that are +less able to take care of themselves. During severe frost they must be +taken down and piled up anywhere in a safe place, but may be put on +their hooks again when the weather softens, for a slight frost will not +harm them in the least, and the wall will keep them comparatively warm +and dry. When the best part of the crop has been bunched or roped, the +remainder may be thrown into a heap in a cool dry shed, and a few mats +put over them will prevent sprouting for at least three months. But damp +will start them into growth, and the only way to save them then is to +top and tail them again, and store as dry as possible in shallow baskets +or boxes.</p> + +<p><b>To grow large Onions</b> the principles already explained must be carried +into practice in a more intense degree. It will be necessary to devote +extreme care to the preparation of the ground, and to give the plants +more time to mature; much greater space must also be allowed than is +usual for an ordinary crop. A good open position is imperative, and +where the soil is sufficiently deep, trenching is desirable. Shallow +soil ought to be thoroughly dug <a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>down to the last inch, and it will be +an advantage to break up the subsoil by pickaxe and fork. Cover the +subsoil with a thick layer of rotten manure before restoring the top +soil. For light land farmyard manure is excellent, but stable manure is +preferable for stiff cold soil. The usual time for trenching is October +or November, leaving the surface rough for disintegration during winter. +Nothing more need be done until the following March. Early in that month +break the soil down to a fine tilth and make it quite firm by treading, +or by rolling. Then broadcast over the plot a liberal dressing of ground +lime and soot, using about three pounds of each per pole. Rake both in +and leave the bed until the time arrives for planting out: this will +depend on the weather.</p> + +<p>Those who are accustomed to exhibit Onions at horticultural shows almost +invariably sow very early in the year under glass and in due time +transplant either from seed-pans or boxes. Of the two, properly prepared +boxes are usually found most convenient. The dimensions are optional, +but boxes about two feet long, one foot wide, and five inches deep +answer admirably. Several holes are perforated in the bottom to insure +efficient drainage. In every box place a thick layer of rotten manure +and then fill with thoroughly rich soil firmly pressed down, leaving the +surface quite smooth. One of the most successful growers sows seed in +rather small boxes early in January, and about the middle of February +the young Onions are pricked into boxes of the size we have named. Only +the finest and most promising seedlings are used. When transferred, each +Onion is allowed a space of three inches. The boxes are kept in a +greenhouse, as near the glass as possible, in a temperature of about +50°. After sowing, very little water is given; but when transplanted, +finish with a sprinkling from a fine rose. Every morning the plants will +require spraying, but this must never be done at night or damping off +may follow. All through their time in the greenhouse it is important to +keep the boxes near the glass. Towards the end of March remove to cold +frames, keeping the lights rather close for a few days, but gradually +giving more air until the lights can be taken off for a short time +daily.</p> + +<p>In the south, about the middle of April is generally a suitable time for +transplanting to open beds, but in the event of a cold east wind +prevailing a brief delay is advisable and it is always an advantage to +plant out on a dull day or in showery weather. Space the rows twelve to +eighteen inches apart, and allow about fifteen inches between plants in +the rows. In the actual work of transplanting take <a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>care to insert only +the fibrous roots in the soil. To bury any portion of the stem results +in thickened necks. Finish with a dusting of soot over the entire bed, +including the Onions, and then well spray from a fine rose to settle the +soil around the roots. Until the plants are established continue the +spraying daily. After the middle of May renew the dusting of the bed +with soot and repeat at fortnightly intervals. About the 20th of June +feeding the Onions must commence. Peruvian guano and nitrate of soda are +both excellent, but these powerful artificials need using with +discretion, or the crop may be scorched instead of stimulated. It is +often safer to employ them in liquid form than dry, and ten ounces of +either, dissolved in ten gallons of water, will suffice for thirty +square yards. Use the two articles alternately at intervals of ten days +and cease at the end of July. If continued longer, some of the finest +bulbs will split. The use of soot can, however, be regularly maintained. +Should bulbs be required for autumn exhibition carefully lift them a +week or ten days in advance of the show date. This has the effect of +making the bulbs firm and reducing the size of the necks.</p> + +<p>Supposing an attack of mildew to occur, a dusting of flowers of sulphur +will prove effective if applied immediately the disease appears. +Sulphide of potassium, one ounce to a gallon of water, is also a +reliable remedy.</p> + +<p><b>July and August Sowing</b>.—During these months seed of the quick-growing +types of Onion may be sown for producing an abundant supply of salading +and small bulbs during the autumn and onwards. It is important to thin +the plants early in order that those left standing in the rows may have +every opportunity of developing rapidly.</p> + +<p><b>Autumn-sown Onions</b>, intended for use in the following summer, may also +be sown in the same way as advised for spring sowing. The time of sowing +is important, as the plants should be forward enough before winter to be +useful, but not so forward as to be in danger of injury from severe +frost. On well-drained ground all the sorts are hardy, and the finest +types, which are so much prized as household and market Onions, may be +sown in autumn as safely as any others. It may be well in most places to +sow a small plot: in the latter part of July, and to make a large sowing +of the best keeping sorts about the middle of August—say, for the far +north the first of the month, and for the far south the very last day. +Thin the plants in the rows and transplant the thinnings, if required, +as soon as weather permits in February. In places where spring-sown +Onions <a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>do not ripen in good time in consequence of cold wet weather, +autumn sowing may prove advantageous, as the ripening will take place +when the summer is at its best, and the crop may be taken off before the +season breaks down.</p> + +<p><b>Pickling Onions</b> may be obtained by sowing any of the white or +straw-coloured varieties that are grown for keeping, but the large sorts +are quite unfit; the best are the Queen and Paris Silver-skin, as they +are very white when pickled and are moderately mild in flavour. A piece +of poor dry ground should be selected and made fine on the surface. Sow +in the month of April thickly, but evenly, cover lightly, and roll or +tread to give a firm seed-bed, and make a good finish. Be careful to +keep down weeds, and do not thin the crop at all. If sown very shallow +the bulbs will be round: if sown an inch deep they will be oval or +pear-shaped.</p> + +<p><b>The Potato or Underground Onion</b> is not much grown in this country, in +consequence of occasional losses of the crop in severe winters. In the +South of England the rule as to growing it is to plant on the shortest +day, and take up on the longest. It requires a rich, deep soil, and to +be planted in rows twelve inches apart, the bulbs nine inches apart in +the row. Some cultivators earth them up like Potatoes, but we prefer to +let the bulbs rise into the light, even by the removal of the earth, so +as to form a basin around each, taking care, of course, not to lay bare +the roots in so doing. When the planted bulbs have put forth a good head +of leaves, they form clusters of bulbs around them, and the best growth +is made in full daylight, the bulbs sitting on and not in the soil.</p> + +<p><b>The Onion Grub</b> (<i>Phorbia cepetorum</i>) is often very troublesome to the +crop, especially in its early stages, and its presence may be known by +the grass becoming yellow and falling on the ground. It will then be +found that the white portion, which should become the bulb, has been +pierced to the centre by a fleshy, shining maggot, a quarter of an inch +in length, this being the larva of an ashy-coloured, ill-looking, +two-winged fly. Where this plague has acquired such a hold as to be a +serious nuisance, care should be taken to clear out all the old store of +Onions instantly upon a sufficiency of young Onions becoming available +in spring, and to burn them without hesitation. If left to become garden +waste in the usual way, these old Onions do much to perpetuate and +augment the plague. A regular use of lime and soot will be found an +effectual preventive. Other remedies are suggested in the article on +Onion Fly, Page 420.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a><b>PARSLEY</b>—<i>see</i> <b>HERBS</b>, <i>page</i> 68</p> + + +<p><b>PARSNIP</b></p> + +<p><b>Pastinaca sativa</b></p> + + +<p>The Parsnip is one of the most profitable roots the earth produces. +Probably its sweet flavour imposes a limit on its usefulness, but bad +cooking doubtless has much to answer for, the people in our great towns +being, in too many instances, quite ignorant of the proper mode of +cooking this nourishing root. When cut in strips, slightly boiled and +served up almost crisp, it is a poor article for human food; but when +cooked whole in such a way as to appear on the table like a mass of +marrow, it is at once a digestible dainty and a substantial food that +the people might consume more largely than they do, to their advantage.</p> + +<p>The Parsnip requires only one special condition for its welfare, and +that is a piece of ground prepared for it by honest digging. Rich ground +it does not need, but the crop will certainly be the finer from a deep +fertile sandy loam than from a poor soil of any kind. But the one great +point is to trench the ground in autumn and lay it up rough for the +winter. Then at the very first opportunity in February or March it can +be levelled down and the seed sown, and the task got out of hand before +the rush of spring work comes on. A fine seed-bed should be prepared +either in one large piece or in four-feet strips, as may best suit other +arrangements. Sow in shallow drills eighteen inches apart, dropping the +seeds from the hand in twos and threes at a distance of six inches +apart; cover lightly, and touch over with the hoe or rake to make a neat +finish. As soon as the plants are visible, ply the hoe to keep down +weeds and thin the crop slightly to prevent crowding anywhere. The +thinning should be carried on from time to time until the plants are a +foot apart; or if the ground is strong and large roots are required, +they may be allowed fifteen inches. Good-quality roots may be grown on +the worst types of clay and on stony soils by boring holes and filling +them in with fine earth, in the manner described for Beet and Carrot. +The holes for Parsnip, however, should be rather larger and deeper, with +more space allowed between. It may be well to lift some of the roots in +November, a few spits of earth being removed first at one end or corner +of the piece to facilitate removal without breaking the roots: these may +be put <a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>aside for immediate use, but the general bulk of the crop should +remain in the ground to be dug as wanted, because the Parsnip keeps +better in the ground than out of it, and in the event of severe frost a +coat of rough litter will suffice to prevent injury. Whatever remains +over in the month of February should be lifted and trimmed up and stored +in the coolest place that can be found, a coat of earth or sand being +sufficient to protect the roots from the injurious action of the +atmosphere.</p> + + +<p><b>GARDEN PEA</b></p> + +<p><b>Pisum sativum</b></p> + +<p>Thanks to the skill and enterprise of enthusiastic specialists, we have +now the wrinkled as well as the round-seeded Peas for the earliest +supply of this favourite vegetable. Not only can we commence the season +with a dish possessing the true marrowfat flavour, but in the new +maincrop varieties dwarf robust growth is combined with free-bearing +qualities, while the size of both Peas and pods has been increased +without in the smallest degree sacrificing flavour. On the contrary, +there has been a distinct and welcome advance in all the special +characteristics which have won for this vegetable its popular position, +and so highly is the crop esteemed that it is usually regarded as a +criterion by which the general management of a garden is judged.</p> + +<p>As an article of food Peas are the most nutritious of all vegetables, +rich in phosphates and alkalies, and the plant makes a heavy demand on +the soil, constituting what is termed an exhausting crop. For this +reason, and also because the time that elapses between sowing seed and +gathering the produce is very brief, it is imperative that the land +should be well prepared to enable the roots to ramify freely and rapidly +collect the food required by the plant.</p> + +<p><b>Treatment of Soil</b>.—The soil for Peas must be rich, deep, and friable, +and should contain a notable proportion of calcareous matter. Old +gardens need to be refreshed with a dressing of lime occasionally, or of +lime rubbish from destroyed buildings, to compensate for the consumption +of calcareous matters by the various crops. For early Peas, a warm dry +sandy soil is to be preferred; for late sorts, and especially for robust +and productive varieties, a strong loam or a well-tilled clay answers +admirably, and it is wise to select plots that were in the previous year +occupied with Celery and other crops for <a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>which the land was freely +manured and much knocked about. Heavy manuring is not needed for the +earliest Peas, unless the soil is very poor, but for the late supplies +it will always pay to trench the ground, and put a thick layer of rotten +manure at the depth of the first spit, in which the roots can find +abundant nutriment about the time when the pods are swelling. In all +cases it is advisable not to enrich in any special manner the top crust +for Peas. When the young plant finds the necessary supplies near at +hand, the roots do not run freely but are actually in danger of being +poisoned; but when the plant is fairly formed, and has entered upon the +fruiting stage, the roots may ramify in rich soil to advantage. Hence +the desirability of growing Peas in ground that was heavily manured and +frequently stirred in the previous year, and of putting a coat of rotten +manure between the two spits in trenching. As regards the last-named +operation, it should be remarked that as Peas require a somewhat fine +tilth, the top spit should be kept on the top where the second spit will +prove lumpy, pasty, or otherwise unkind. In this case bastard trenching +will be sufficient; but when the second spit may be brought up with +safety, it should be done for the sake of a fresh soil and a deep +friable bed. The use of wood ashes, well raked in immediately in advance +of sowing, will prove highly beneficial to the crop, for the Pea is a +potash-loving plant.</p> + +<p><b>Method of Sowing</b>.—It will always pay to sow in flat drills about six +inches wide, but the V-shaped drill in which the seedlings are generally +crowded injuriously is not satisfactory. Two inches apart each way is a +useful distance for the seed, although more space may be given for the +robust-growing maincrop and late varieties. It is wise policy, however, +to sow liberally in case of losses through climatic conditions, birds or +mice; and if necessary superfluous plants can always be withdrawn. The +depth for the seed may vary from two to three inches: the minimum for +heavy ground and the maximum for light land.</p> + +<p><b>Early Crops (sown outdoors</b>).—Early Peas are produced in many ways. +The simplest consists in sowing one or more of the quick-growing +round-seeded varieties in November, December, and January, on sloping +sheltered borders expressly prepared for the purpose, and provided with +reed hurdles to screen the plants from cutting winds. Where the assaults +of mice are to be apprehended, it is an excellent plan to soak the seed +in paraffin oil for twenty minutes, and then, having sown in drills only +one inch deep, heap over the drill three inches of fine sand. If this +cannot <a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>be done, sow in drills fully two inches deep, for shallow sowing +will not promote earliness, but it is likely to promote weakness of the +plant. It is not usual to grow any other crop with first-early Peas, but +the rows must be far enough apart to prevent them from shading one +another, and, if possible, let them run north and south, that they may +have an equable enjoyment of sunshine. As soon as the plant is fairly +out of the ground, dust carefully with soot, not enough to choke the +tender leaves, but just sufficient to render them unpalatable to vermin. +When they have made a growth of about three inches, put short brushwood +to support and shelter them, deferring the taller sticks until they are +required. Then fork the ground between, taking care not to go too near +to the plant. Sticks must be provided in good time, lest the plant +should be distressed, for not only do the sticks give needful support, +but they afford much shelter, as is the case with the small brushwood +supplied in the first instance.</p> + +<p>On fairly warm soils the first opportunity should be taken to sow one of +the early dwarf marrowfat varieties in the open ground. This may be in +February or early March, but it will be useless to make the attempt +until the ground is in a suitable condition. Sow in flat drills as +already described, the distance from row to row depending upon future +plans. If no intercropping is to be done, eighteen inches between the +rows will generally suffice for dwarf-growing Peas, but many gardeners +prefer to allow three feet and to take a crop of Spinach on the +intervening space.</p> + +<p><b>Early Crops (sown under glass.</b>)—We now come to the modes of growing +early Peas by the aid of glass. The surest and simplest method is to +provide a sufficiency of grass turf cut from a short clean pasture or +common. There is in this case a risk of wireworm and black bot; but if +the turf is provided in good time and is laid up in the yard ready for +use, it will be searched by the small birds and pretty well cleansed of +the insect larvas that may have lurked in it when first removed. Lay the +turves out in a frame, grass side downwards, and give them a soaking +with water in which a very small quantity of salt has been dissolved. +This will cause the remaining bots and slugs to wriggle out, and by +means of a little patient labour they can be gathered and destroyed. In +January or February sow the seed rather thickly in lines along the +centre of each strip of turf, and cover with fine earth. By keeping the +frame closed a more regular sprouting of the seed will be insured; but +as soon as the plants rise, air must be given, and this part of the +business needs to be <a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>regulated in accordance with the weather. All now +depends on the cultivator, for, having a very large command of +conditions, it may be said that he is removed somewhat from the sport of +the elements, which wrecks many of our endeavours. There are now three +points to be kept in mind. In the first place, a short stout +slow-growing plant is wanted, for a tall lean fast-growing plant will at +the end of the story refuse to furnish the dish of Peas aimed at. Give +air and water judiciously, and protect from vermin and all other +enemies. A little dry lime or soot may be dusted over the plants +occasionally, but not sufficient to choke the leaves. All going well, +plant out in the month of March or April, on ground prepared for the +purpose, and laying the plant-bearing turves in strips, without any +disturbance whatever of the roots. Then earth them up with fine stuff +from between the rows, and put sticks to support and shelter them.</p> + +<p>A more troublesome, but often a safer method, is to raise plants in +pots, or in boxes about four and a half inches deep and pierced at the +bottom to insure free drainage. Old potting soil will answer admirably, +and the seeds should be put in one inch deep and two inches apart. Place +the pots or boxes in any light cool structure as near the roof-glass as +possible, but make no attempt to force either germination or the growth +of the plants. When fair weather permits, transfer to the open in March +or April. A good succession may be obtained by sowing a first-early +dwarf variety and a second-early kind simultaneously.</p> + +<p><b>Main crops</b> require plenty of room, and that is really the chief point +in growing them. Supposing the ground has been well prepared as already +advised, the next matter of importance is the distance between the rows. +The market gardener is usually under some kind of compulsion to sow Peas +in solid pieces, just far enough apart for fair growth, and to leave +them to sprawl instead of being staked, because of the cost of the +proceeding. But the garden that supplies a household is not subject to +the severe conditions of competition, and Peas may be said to go to the +dinner table at retail and not at wholesale price. Moreover, high +quality is of importance, and here the domestic as distinguished from +the commercial gardener has an immense advantage, for well-grown ‘Garden +Peas’ surpass in beauty and flavour the best market samples procurable. +To produce these fine Peas there must be plenty of space allowed between +the rows, and it will be found good practice to grow Peas and early +Potatoes on the same plot, and to put short sticks to the Peas as soon +as they are forward enough. By this management the <a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>first top-growth of +the Potatoes may be saved from late May frosts, and the Peas will give +double the crop of a crowded plantation. The general sowings of Peas are +made from March to June, but as regards the precise time, seasons and +climates must be considered. Nothing is gained by sowing maincrop Peas +so early as to subject the plant to a conflict with frost. It should be +understood that the finest sorts of Peas are somewhat tender in +constitution, and the wrinkled sorts are more tender than the round. +Hence, in any case, the wrinkled seeds should be sown rather more +thickly than the round to allow for losses; but robust-habited Peas +should never be sown so thickly as the early sorts, for every plant +needs room to branch and spread, and gather sunshine by means of its +leaves for the ultimate production of superb Green Peas.</p> + +<p><b>Late Crops.</b>—To obtain Peas late in the season sowings may be made in +June and July, and preference should be given to quick-growing early +varieties. Ground from which early crops of Cauliflower, Carrot, +Cabbage, Potatoes, &c., have been removed is excellent for the purpose. +In dry weather thoroughly saturate the trench with water before sowing, +and keep the seedlings as cool as possible by screening them from the +sun.</p> + +<p><b>Staking.</b>—This important operation must not be unduly deferred, as the +plants are never wholly satisfactory when once the stems have become +bent. Commence by carefully earthing up the rows as soon as the plants +are about three inches high. In the case of early varieties, light bushy +sticks of the required height, thinly placed on both sides of the row, +will suffice. Maincrop and late Peas, however, should first be staked +with bushy twigs about eighteen inches high, these to be supplemented +with sticks at least one foot taller than the variety apparently needs, +as most Peas exceed their recognised height in the event of a wet +season. No attempt should be made to construct an impenetrable fence, +for Peas need abundance of light and air. Neither should the stakes be +arched at the top, but placed leaning outwards.</p> + +<p><b>General Cultivation.</b>—On the first appearance of the plant, a slight +dusting of lime or soot will render the rising buds distasteful to slugs +and sparrows, but this is more needful for the early than the later +crops. When maincrop Peas have grown two or three inches, they are +pretty safe against the small marauders. As the plant develops, +frequently stir the ground between the rows to keep down weeds and check +evaporation. The earthing up of the rows affords valuable protection to +the roots of the plants, and a light mulch of <a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>thoroughly decayed manure +will prove very helpful in a dry season. In the event of prolonged dry +weather, however, measures must be taken to supply water in good time +and in liberal quantity. The advantage of deep digging and manuring +between the two spits will now be discovered, for Peas thus +circumstanced will pass through the trial, even if not aided by water, +although much better with it; whereas similar sorts, in poor shallow +ground, will soon become hopelessly mildewed, and not even water will +save them. In giving water, it will be well to open a shallow trench, +distant about a foot from the rows on the shady side, and in this pour +the water so as to fill the trench; by this method water and labour will +be economised, and the plant will have the full benefit of the +operation.</p> + +<p><b>The enemies Of Peas</b> are fewer in number than might be expected in the +case of so nutritive a plant. Against the weevil, the moth, and the fly, +we are comparatively powerless, and perhaps the safest course is +occasionally to dust the plants with lime or soot, in which case the +work must be carefully done, or the leaf growth will be checked, to the +injury of the crop. Light dustings will suffice to render the plant +unpalatable without interfering with its health, but a heavy careless +hand will do more harm than all the insects by loading the leafage with +obnoxious matter. The great enemy of the Pea crop is the sparrow, whose +depredations begin with the appearance of the plant, and are renewed +from the moment when the pods contain something worth having. Other +small birds haunt the ground, but the sparrow is the leader of the gang. +Ordinary frighteners used in the ordinary way are of little use; the +best are lines, to which at intervals white feathers, or strips of white +paper, or pieces of bright tin are attached. In the seedling stage the +plants may be protected by wire guards, and even strands of black thread +tied to short stakes will prove serviceable. We have found the surest +way to guard the crop against feathered plunderers is to have work in +hand on the plot, so as to keep up a constant bustle, and this shows the +wisdom of putting the rows at such a distance as will allow the +formation of Celery trenches between them. We want a crop to come off, +and another to be put on while the Peas are in bearing; and early +Potatoes, to be followed by Celery, may be suggested as a rotation +suitable in many instances. Even then the birds will have a good time of +it in the morning, unless the workmen are on the ground early. However, +on this delicate point, the ‘early bird’ that carries a spade will have +an advantage, because the sparrow is really a late riser, <a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>and does not +begin business until other birds have had breakfast, and have finished +at least one musical performance.</p> + +<p><b>Early Peas under Glass.</b>—So greatly esteemed are Peas at table that in +many establishments the demand for them is not limited to supplies +obtainable from the open ground. Sowings may be made from mid-November +to mid-February, according to requirements and the extent of +accommodation available, from which the crops may be expected to mature +from mid-March onwards. Where a large glass-house, such as is used for +Tomatoes, &c., is at command, early Peas may be grown without prejudice +to other crops. Assuming that a good depth of soil exists, thoroughly +trench and prepare it as for outdoor Peas. Select a tall-growing +variety, of which there are a number that do well under glass. Sow in a +triple row, placing the seeds about three inches apart each way, and in +due course support the plants with stakes. A cool greenhouse or a frame +will also carry through an early crop of Peas, but for these structures +pots should be used and only dwarf-growing varieties sown. A ten-inch +pot will accommodate about eight seeds, and these should be planted one +and a half inches deep. When a few inches high insert a few bushy stakes +to carry the plants. A compost consisting of two parts loam, one part +leaf-soil or well-decayed manure, with a small quantity of wood ashes, +will suit Peas admirably. At no time is a forcing temperature needed. +From 50° to 55° at night, with a rise of about 10° by day will suffice, +and free ventilation must be given whenever possible with safety. Apply +water carefully, but never allow the roots to become dust-dry.</p> + +<p><b>Peas for Exhibition.</b>—On the exhibition table handsome well-grown Peas +always elicit unstinted admiration, and the magnificent pods of the +newer varieties are certainly worthy of the utmost praise bestowed upon +them. In all cases where vegetables are grown for competition at Shows +the amount of success achieved depends largely on the intensity of the +cultivation adopted, and in this respect no other subject will respond +more readily to liberal treatment than will the Garden Pea. Deep +digging, generous manuring, and copious watering during dry weather, in +the manner already described, are fundamental essentials. Another matter +of no less importance is the selection of suitable varieties. It is now +the general custom to start the early sorts in pots or boxes under glass +(see page 104), and some growers treat mid-season Peas in the same +manner. Of this system it may be said that it offers the fullest +opportunity of giving attention to the young plants and allows of the +strongest <a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>specimens being selected for transfer to open quarters. The +number of sowings will, of course, depend on individual requirements. At +the time of transplanting give each plant plenty of space for +development, and it will be well to stake the rows immediately. Keep the +plants under constant observation, especially while quite young, when +they are liable to destruction by garden foes. The flowering should be +limited to the fourth spike, and from the time the pods appear +assistance must be given in the form of liquid manure or a mulching of +well-rotted dung. Remove all lateral shoots and promote vigorous healthy +growth at every stage. Some means should be adopted to prevent injury of +any kind to the pods, which when gathered should be well filled, +carrying a fine bloom free from blemish.</p> + + +<p><b>POTATO</b></p> + +<p><b>Solarium tuberosum</b></p> + +<p>The potato has been designated the ‘King of the Kitchen Garden,’ and +perhaps ‘the noble tuber’ should be so regarded. Of its importance as an +article of food it is impossible to speak too highly, and the dietetic +value of the Potato appears to be always advancing. The known deficiency +of flesh-forming constituents naturally associates this vegetable with +meat of various kinds, poultry, game and fish, and in this proper +association the root is probably capable of superseding all other +vegetable foods, bread alone excepted. It is far from our intention to +recommend abstention from Asparagus, Cauliflower, Peas, and Sea Kale, +and to regard Potatoes as a sufficient substitute for these and other +table delicacies; but it is well to remember that by virtue of its +starchy compounds the Potato has a direct tendency to promote health and +that freshness of complexion that generally prevails among well-fed +people.</p> + +<p><b>Forcing Potatoes</b>.—The demand for new Potatoes exists long before the +first of the outdoor crops grown in this country can be lifted. To meet +such a demand is not a difficult matter where the necessary amount of +glass is at command, and by adopting the method here given supplies may +be maintained through the winter and onwards until the first-earlies +from the open ground are available. It may be said at once that for +culture in pots and boxes under glass a high temperature is neither +requisite nor desirable. Sturdy healthy growth is essential to the +formation of a crop of <a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>tubers, and if the plants be forced into an +attenuated condition the labour will have been in vain. Another matter +which needs to be specially mentioned is the choice of suitable +varieties. Only dwarf-growing kinds, thoroughly adapted for forcing, +should be considered. The date of planting will necessarily be regulated +by the time at which the crop is required. But a few weeks in advance of +planting, the sets should be sprouted by placing them on end in shallow +boxes, packed with damp light soil and stood near the light in a +slightly warm pit or house. When the sprouts are formed rub off all but +the two strongest. Good turfy loam, a small quantity of manure from a +spent Mushroom bed, and a little bone meal, will make an excellent +compost for the pots or boxes. Two sets will suffice for a ten-inch or +twelve-inch pot, or five tubers may be placed in a box measuring about +four feet long by one foot wide. Perfect drainage must be insured. Plant +the sets with care, taking up as much soil as possible with the mass of +fibrous roots which will have formed during the period of sprouting. The +operation may best be accomplished by only half filling the pots or +boxes at first, and when the sets are in position add a further two +inches or so of soil. Water sparingly, especially at the outset. As root +growth increases add more soil and give the plants an occasional +application of tepid liquid manure. At all times avoid excessive heat, +and if the crop can be finished off gradually in a cool house so much +the better.</p> + +<p>Where sufficient accommodation cannot be found for forcing Potatoes in +pots or boxes, an excellent crop may be grown on a gentle hot-bed made +up in the usual manner, and covered to a depth of at least nine inches +with a compost of three parts light loamy soil to one part leaf-mould. +After putting on the frame, keep the lights closed for a few days. But a +great heat is not wanted, and undue forcing at any stage will lead to +disaster. Partially exhausted hot-beds which have been used for other +purposes will also be found to answer admirably. Prepare the sets in the +manner already advised for pots and boxes, and plant them with the least +possible disturbance to the fibrous roots, three inches deep, in rows +fifteen inches apart, allowing twelve inches between the tubers in the +row. Whenever the weather is fine afford the plants a little air. +Increase the amount gradually as growth develops, but close the frames +early in the afternoon and give them the protection of mats at night +should the outside temperature be low. Water must be given in +moderation. It should always be of the same temperature as the frame, +and as soon as the haulm commences to turn yellow watering must be +discontinued.<a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a> Little earthing up is needed, but when the foliage is +about nine inches high the addition of a small quantity of warm soil +along the rows will be beneficial.</p> + +<p><b>Early Potatoes</b> outdoors are produced in various ways, and by very +simple appliances. The Potato will not bear the slightest touch of +frost. It is a sub-tropical plant, and will endure considerable heat if +at the same time it can enjoy light, air, and sufficient moisture. In +some respects it may be likened to the Lettuce, for if crowded or +overheated, or subjected to sudden checks, it bolts—in other words, it +produces plenty of top and no bottom, just as Lettuces similarly treated +produce flowering stems and no hearts. We will here propose a very +simple and practical procedure for obtaining a nice crop of Potatoes in +the month of June. This system fairly mastered, endless modifications +will be easily effected as circumstances and judgment may suggest.</p> + +<p>Begin by selecting an early variety of the best quality. Some time +towards the end of January the sets are packed closely in shallow boxes, +one layer deep only, and these are placed in full daylight safe from +frost, but are not subjected to heat in any way. Having started the sets +into growth in full daylight, proceed with the preparation of the +ground. This must be light, warm, dry and rather rich without being +rank. If a length of wall is available, and perplexity arises concerning +suitable soil for the early Potatoes, seize all the sandy loam that has +been turned out of pots, and having mixed it with as much leaf-mould and +quite rotten manure as can be spared, lay the mixture in a ridge at the +foot of the wall. As walls do not anywhere run in such lengths as to +provide for all the early Potatoes that are wanted, select a plot of +ground lying warm and dry to the sun, and having spread over it a +liberal allowance of decayed manure, and any light fertilising stuff, +such as the red and black residue from the burning of hedge clippings, +turf, and weeds, dig this in. The ground being ready, it is lined out in +neat ridges two feet apart, running north and south. These ridges must +be shallow, rising not more than six inches above the general level. On +every fourth ridge sow early Peas that are not likely to grow more than +two and a half to three feet in height. This being done in February, the +land is ready for Potatoes in the first week of March. Plant on the fine +stuff laid up next the wall in the first instance, and then on the +ridges, where there is room for three rows of Potatoes between every two +rows of Peas. In the process of planting, it will be advisable to rub +off all the weak eyes and thin out those on the crown, two <a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>or three +strong eyes being quite sufficient. This can easily be accomplished as +the sets are laid into their places in a shallow drill opened on the top +of the ridge. The sets may be put a foot apart, and have four inches of +fine soil over them. Prick the ground over with a fork between the rows, +leaving it quite rough, but regular and workmanlike. The Peas will soon +be visible and require attention. Draw a little fine earth to them, and +stake them carefully with small brushwood. If snails and slugs appear, +give dustings of lime or soot, and as soon as possible supply stakes of +sufficient height and strength to carry the crop. By the time the +Potatoes begin to show their shaws the Peas will constitute an effectual +shelter for them against east winds, and it will be found that the +morning frosts that are often so injurious to Potatoes in the month of +May will scarcely touch a crop that has the advantage of this kind of +protection. But to that alone it is not wise to trust. One serious +freezing that blackens the shaws will delay and diminish the Potato +crop. Therefore, as the green tops appear, cover them lightly with fine +earth from between the rows, and if necessary repeat this, always +allowing the leaves to see daylight. When a sharp frost occurs, it will +be advisable to cover the tops with a few inches of light dry litter in +just the same way that a bed of Radishes is protected. There are many +other methods of saving the rising shaws. A plank on edge on the east +side of a row will suffice to tide through an ordinary white frost. Mats +or reed hurdles laid on a few stout pegs will also answer admirably, but +care must be taken that the plant is not pressed down, and the covering +must be removed as soon as the danger is over.</p> + +<p>Crops grown under walls will be ready first, and those in the beds will +follow. Spaces between the trees of a fruit wall may be planted with +Potatoes, without injury to the trees. Those grown on the south face of +a good wall will be ready for table three weeks in advance of the +earliest crops in the open quarters. But east and west walls may be made +to contribute, and even north walls are useful, if planted a week later +and a little deeper. In all cases the sets should be put close to the +wall to enjoy the warmth, and dryness, and shelter it affords. When the +crop is lifted, the soil specially laid up for it may be taken away, or +scattered over the border. But the bulk will be so slight that it will +not matter much what becomes of it. However, in a new place with a clay +soil it may be prudent to remove it, and keep it ready as an aid in seed +sowing, for there are times and places where a little fine stuff is +worth a great deal to give a crop of some kind a proper start.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a><b>The main crop</b>, as the source of supply for fully nine months out of +twelve, deserves every attention. Potatoes are grown with advantage on +so many diverse soils, and in such unlikely climates, that the plant +appears, on a casual consideration, to be altogether indifferent to its +surroundings. But it is none the less true that for the profitable +cultivation of this crop certain conditions are absolutely essential. +Among these an open situation and a well-drained soil are perhaps the +most important. To this might be added favourable weather, because a bad +season frustrates every hope and labour. Having an open situation and a +well-drained soil, it is much to be preferred that the soil be of a +deep, friable, loamy nature; in other words, a good medium soil, +suitable for deep tillage, but neither a decided clay, chalk nor sand. A +fertile sandy loam, lying well as regards sunshine and drainage, may +generally be considered a first-rate Potato soil, and excellent crops +have also been grown on thin soils overlying chalk and limestone. So +again, fine crops are often taken from poor sandy soils, and from +newly-broken bog and moss, as well as from clay lands that have had some +amount of tillage to form a friable top crust. But when all is said the +fact remains that the ideal soil for Potatoes is a deep mellow loam, +and, failing this, preference should be given to calcareous and sandy +soils rather than to clays or retentive soils of any kind.</p> + +<p><b>Manures</b>.—Much prejudice prevails against manuring land for Potatoes, +and where the soil is good enough to yield a paying crop, it will be +prudent to do without manure, and to dress generously for the next crop +to restore the land to a reasonable state. Still it is the practice of +many of the most successful growers for the early market to manure for +this crop, and in some instances the manure is laid in the trenches at +the time of planting. Generally speaking, land intended for Potatoes +should be deeply dug, and, if needful, manured in the autumn. About +twenty to thirty cartloads of half-rotten manure per acre may be dug or +ploughed in to as great a depth as possible, consistent with the nature +of the subsoil and the appliances at command. In breaking up pasture +with the spade, bastard trenching will as a rule prove advantageous. The +land is lined off in two-feet breadths, and the top spit of the first +piece is removed to the last piece, which will often be close at hand by +the rule of working a certain distance down and back again. The under +spit will then be well broken up, the manure thrown in, and the top spit +of the next piece will be turned in turf downwards, making a sandwich of +the manure. If this is done in autumn, there will be a <a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>mellow top crust +produced by the spring, and the best way to plant will be in trenches, +unless the land is very light, in which case the dibber may be used.</p> + +<p>As light lands are often profitably devoted to Potato culture, and more +especially to the production of first-class early Potatoes for the +markets, a few words on their management may be useful here. If on the +light land there is a choice of aspects, by all means select the plots +that slope to the south-west; the dangerous aspects are north and east. +The ground should be ploughed up in autumn and left rough, but it is not +economical to manure light lands in autumn. At the time of planting, the +furrows should be cut with a plough fitted with a double mould-board, +and the manure spread evenly along them previous to laying in the sets. +A good dressing per acre will consist of fifteen loads of farmyard +manure, and four cwt. of artificials, consisting of one and a half cwt. +of guano, two cwt. of superphosphate of lime, and half a cwt. of muriate +of potash. When the sets are laid, cover them by splitting the ridges +with the plough. If planted early in March, the crop should come off in +time for Turnips, for which the land will be in good heart, and the seed +should be sown as quickly as possible after the clearing of the +Potatoes.</p> + +<p><b>Preparing the Sets.</b>—Among the many subjects that open out before us +at this point are the selection and preparation of the sets. Why are +smallish tubers chosen in one case and planted whole? and why, in +another case, are large tubers chosen and divided before planting, to +make two or more sets of each? Because there is a principle on which +sound practice rests, and it is this: the number of shoots starting from +any one growing point must be limited, for if they become crowded the +crop will be less than the land is capable of producing. Keeping this +principle in view, we proceed to remark, in the first place, that +carefully selected seed of moderate size may be planted as it comes from +the store without any preparation whatever, and with a fair prospect of +a profitable result. But certain varieties produce few tubers of seed +size, and when large they must be divided in such a manner as to insure +at least two eyes in each set. As a matter of fact, profitable crops are +grown in the most simple way; the seed is neither sprouted nor +disbudded, and with a well-made soil and a favourable season, the return +is ample, and all claims are satisfied. Potato-growing entails much +labour, therefore it is important to distinguish between tasks that are +necessary and those that are optional.</p> + +<p>But where the time and strength can be found for first-class +<a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a>cultivation, it should have the preference over the rough and ready +methods that are satisfactory on a large scale. Exhibitions of Potatoes +are for the most part sustained by persons who can find the time to do +things with extra care, and they have their reward in their crops as +well as in their prizes, for what may be styled Exhibition culture +consists simply in growing the crop in the best possible way, and +planting many sorts where in any other case a few would suffice. Here, +then, on the best plan, we begin with sets most carefully selected, to +insure true typical form and colour, and these are, some six weeks or so +before planting time, put in shallow boxes or baskets, one layer deep, +to sprout in full daylight, but quite safe from frost. In the first +instance a number of sprouts appear, and a large proportion are rubbed +off. The object of the cultivator is to secure two or three stout, short +shoots of a green or purple colour; the long white threads that are +often produced in the store being regarded as useless. When large sets +are employed, they are allowed to make three or four stout shoots, and +at the time of planting—not before—these sets are cut so as to leave +to each large piece only one or two good sprouts or sprits. As for the +smaller sets that are not to be divided, it is common practice to cut a +small piece off each of these at the time of planting to facilitate the +decay of the tuber when it has accomplished its work, for having +nourished the first growth the sooner it disappears the better. Thus, +with a little extra trouble, sound tubers have been prepared for +planting, and the main reasons for taking this extra trouble are +doubtless fully apparent. The best seed possible is wanted and the most +suitable soil; these two items forming the first chapter. By sprouting +the seed time is gained, which is equivalent to a lengthening of the +season. By limiting the number of shoots an excess of foliage is +prevented. Where the shoots are crowded the tubers will not be crowded, +a few strong shaws with all their leaves exposed to the air and light +being capable of producing better results than a large number contending +for air and light that are insufficient for them all. And finally, by +cutting the sets, whether to divide them, or simply to hasten their +decay, we insure that they will not reappear with the young crop as +useless, ugly things.</p> + +<p><b>Distances for Planting</b>.—The distance at which the sets are planted is +of importance, for a crop too crowded will be of little value. But the +ground must be properly filled. By wasting only a small space in each +breadth, or in the spaces between the sets, the total crop will be many +bushels short of the possible quantity. The guiding principle must be to +allow to each plant ample room to <a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>spread, and absorb the air and +sunshine, in accordance with the character of the sort and the condition +of the soil. A considerable proportion of the losses from disease may be +traced to overcrowding in the first instance; the tangled haulm being +rendered weak through want of air, and then becoming loaded with water, +and in contact with wet ground, the disease has made havoc where, had +the management been founded on sound principles, there might have been a +vigorous healthy growth. If a doubt arises, it is safer to allow too +much rather than too little space, and in this respect the exhibition +growers are very liberal. They often place the rows of strong-growing +varieties four feet or more apart, and allow a space of three and a half +feet for the more moderate growers. Even then, with good land, in a high +state of preparation, the shaws sometimes meet across the rows, and +enormous crops are lifted. For a very comprehensive rule, it may be said +that the distance between the rows may vary from fifteen inches for the +early sorts of dwarf growth, to forty inches for the vigorous-growing +late sorts. Between these measurements, for varieties producing medium +haulm, a distance of twenty-six to thirty-six inches may be allowed on +good ground. The distance between the sets must in like manner be +determined by the growth, and will range from nine inches for crops to +be dug early, to sixteen or twenty inches for the robust kinds. The +medium maincrop Potatoes will generally do well at twelve inches apart. +Much, however, depends on the season, for when great space is allowed, +and the season proves warm and showery, there will be more large tubers +than the grower will care for; whereas, if planted somewhat closer, the +crop would be smaller and more uniform in size. When planted, the tops +of the tubers should be about four inches below the surface.</p> + +<p><b>Time of Planting</b>.—Under favourable conditions, it is possible to +plant on a warm dry border as early as mid-February in very sheltered +districts, but a supply of protecting material must be instantly +available in the event of severe weather. As a rule, however, the +opening of March is soon enough to plant early crops out of doors, +always provided that the soil is light and the situation warm, but where +these conditions do not exist it will be safer to wait until the middle +of the month. Maincrops may be got in at the end of March and during +April, according to the locality and the character of the soil. In any +case, it is better to defer the operation for a week or so than to plant +in heavy wet ground which quickly consolidates, making it impervious to +air and unsuitable for root-penetration. Excellent crops may also be +obtained by planting in<a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a> July, preference being given to quick-growing +early varieties. Old tubers only should be used and these must be +carefully stored until required for planting.</p> + +<p><b>Method of Planting.</b>—On light soils, in a sufficiently dry condition, +the dibber or planting stick may be used, but on heavy ground it is not +satisfactory. A good method of planting for all classes of soil is to +draw out a V-shaped drill of the requisite depth, place the sets into +position and lightly return the earth. Another plan which is largely +adopted is to insert the sets in the trenches as made during the +operation of digging the ground in spring, a garden line being used to +obtain the accurate alignment of the rows.</p> + +<p><b>General Cultivation.</b>—As soon as the shaws appear the ground should be +hoed between the rows, and if there is any fear of frost the shaws +should be lightly moulded over. As the growth advances the crop must be +earthed up, care being exercised not to earth up too much, for, taking +six inches as the best average depth, the crop will be diminished by an +increase beyond this depth. One urgent reason for early work between the +rows is that a prosperous crop will soon put a stop to it. The moment it +becomes likely that the shaws will be bruised by traffic between the +rows they must be left to finish their course in their own way, because +the formation of tubers below will be in the ratio of the healthy growth +above ground. The Potato may be said to be manufactured out of sunshine +and alkaline salts. The green leaves constitute the machinery of the +manufacture, for which the solar light from above, and the potash, +phosphate of lime, phosphate of magnesia, and phosphoric acid from below +are the raw materials.</p> + +<p><b>Change of Ground and Seed.</b>—In common with all other crops, the Potato +needs as often as possible a fresh soil, and a renewal of seed from some +distant source. The need for a change of soil is made apparent by an +analysis of the root, which contains large proportions of potash, +phosphorus, and sulphur, with smaller proportions of magnesia and lime, +without which the plant cannot prosper. A succession of heavy crops of +Potatoes on the same land may be said to take from the soil its +available potash and phosphates, and this crop will not, like some +others, take soda instead of potash when the last-named alkali runs +short. Here then is a chemical reason for change of soil. Another reason +is found in the history of the species of fungi that prey on the Potato +when its growth is checked by heavy rains and a low temperature. These +leave their spores in the soil, like wolves hiding in ambush, to +<a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>destroy the next crop. They are powerless to attack any other crop; +therefore a suitable rotation gives them time to die out and leave the +land clean as regards the <i>Phytophthora</i> and other parasites that +destroy Potato crops. The necessity for an occasional change of seed +rests on old experience, and should scarcely need enforcing. One word +may be said here by way of explanation, and it is this: the seed house +that aims to put a good article in the market adopts measures which +altogether differ from those followed by the majority of persons who +have not been trained to the business. It is a common experience to find +that those who save their own seed from year to year have as a result a +constantly declining strain, so that every year the growth is weaker, +less true, and less profitable. It is so all through, but is especially +the case with Potatoes. We do not say that all who save their own seed +act unwisely, for some are most expert in the business. But we do say +that seed saving is not learned in a day, and many who think they save +shillings when they save seeds, actually lose pounds by burdening +themselves with a bad article. The art of ‘roguing’—the elimination of +plants which are untrue to type—is but one part of the seed-saving +process. There is the proper storing, the selecting and sorting +operations, to which eyes and hands must be trained, and there must be +no scruple about the sacrifice of false, immature or diseased samples. +The point we have in view is to advise the Potato grower to be sure of +his seed, and when a doubt arises as to the purity and healthiness of +the sample at command, it may be remembered that the seed merchant +practises methods of purgation for insuring perfectly true stocks, while +by growing in many different districts, and on diverse soils, he can +furnish an admirable change of seed for any description of land.</p> + +<p><b>The Potato Disease.</b>—The culture of Potatoes cannot be dismissed +without allusion to the destructive fungus which is never absent in dry +seasons, and in wet summers does its deadly work on a vast scale. +Scientific men have acquainted us with the history of the Potato fungus, +and this may eventually result in as efficient a remedy as that which +renewed the vineyards of France. Such a remedy for the Potato murrain +has yet to be discovered. Meanwhile, we must continue to resist the foe +with the plough, spade, draining tool, and above all with a wise +selection of sorts. It is an acknowledged fact that many Potatoes that +have been cultivated for a long time appear to have lost their vigour, +and are liable to succumb to the disease; but several kinds that have +been raised <a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>from seed in recent years possess a constitution which +almost defies the virulent assaults of the <i>Phytophthora infestans</i>. +Since the introduction of Sutton’s Magnum Bonum Potato there has been a +disposition to believe in ‘Disease-proof Potatoes.’ There is no such +thing absolutely, and perhaps there never will be, any more than there +is a disease-proof wheat, or dog, or horse, or man. But some varieties +of Potatoes are known to be more susceptible to the ravages of disease +than others, and it has been one of our aims to secure seedlings which +combine the highest cropping and table qualities with the least tendency +to succumb in seasons when conditions favour the spread of the fungus. +Scientific men have not yet explained why the varieties differ in this +respect, but practical men have discovered that initial vigour of growth +is the main defence against the plague, and as the growing of a good +Potato costs no more than the growing of a poor variety, the cultivator +should bestow his care on the very best he can obtain. A little extra +cost for seed in the first instance is as nothing to the multiplied +chances of success a good variety carries with it. To sum up this +subject, then, we say that disease may be avoided in the early crops by +cultivating sorts which may be lifted before the plague generally +appears; and on soils which will not produce an early crop, only such +varieties should be grown for the main crops as have been proved to be +most capable of standing uninjured until late in the season. Let there +be a dry, warm bed, sufficient food, the fullest exposure to the +life-giving powers of light, and conditions favourable to early +ripening.</p> + +<p><b>The Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes</b> (<i>Synchytrium endobioticum</i>, +Percival) is dealt with in the chapter on ‘The Fungus Pests of certain +Garden Plants.’</p> + + +<p><b>PUMPKIN</b>—<i>see</i> <b>GOURD</b>, <i>page 63</i></p> + + +<p><b>RADISH</b></p> + +<p><b>Raphanus sativus</b></p> + +<p>The Radish is often badly grown through being sown too thickly, or on +lumpy ground, or in places not favourable to quick vegetation. Radishes +grown slowly become tough, pungent and worthless. On the other hand, +those which are grown quickly on rich, mellow ground are attractive in +appearance, delicate in flavour, and as digestible as any salad in +common use. It should be understood <a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>that earliness is of the very first +importance, and that large Radishes are never wanted. To insure a quick +growth and a handsome sample the ground must not only be good, but +finely broken up.</p> + +<p><b>Frame Culture.</b>—For the earliest crops it is advisable to make a +semi-hot-bed, by removing a portion of the surface soil, and laying down +about two-feet depth of half-rotten stable manure, on which spread four +inches of fine earth, and then cover with frames. Sow the seed thinly, +and put on the lights. When the plants appear, give air at every +opportunity to keep the growth dwarf, and cover with mats during frost, +always taking care to uncover as often as possible to give light, for if +the tops are drawn the roots will be of little account. Where the plants +are crowded, thin them, allowing every plant just room enough to spread +out its top without overlapping its neighbour. Sowings made in this way +in December, January, and February will supply an abundance of beautiful +Radishes in early spring, when they are greatly valued. To follow the +outdoor crops frame culture will again be necessary in autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Outdoor Culture.</b>—The second crop (which in many gardens will be the +first) may be sown on warm, dry borders in February. Within a few days +after sowing, collect a quantity of dry litter, and lay it up in a shed +ready for use. It happens often that we have warm, bright weather in +February, and the Radishes start quickly and make good progress, and +then may come a severe frost, when the litter must be spread as lightly +as possible, three or four inches thick. These open-ground sowings will +bear cold well, but they should not be allowed to get frozen, and +therefore semi-hot-beds may be employed. If time and materials appear +excessive for such a purpose, it should be remembered that this is a +capital way of preparing for the next crop, whatever it may be, and is a +particularly good method of preparing for Peas that are to be sown in +the month of April, by which time the earliest sown Radishes will be off +the ground. Successive sowings should be made from March to September in +the coolest place that can be found for them, and the usual practice of +four-feet beds will answer very well. In many gardens sufficient +supplies of Radishes are obtained by sowing in the alleys between +seed-beds, but care must be taken that this plan does not interfere with +the proper work of hoeing, weeding, thinning, &c. When seed is sown on +light soils a moderate firming with the back of the spade may be +desirable, but generally speaking it is sufficient to cover the seed +lightly, and so leave it. To thin the crop early is, however, of great +importance, no matter how <a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>wasteful the process may seem, for wherever +the plants are crowded they will make large useless tops, and small +worthless roots, and prove altogether unprofitable. For the earliest +sowings we have choice of many sorts, round, oval, and long; but the +long Radishes are not well adapted for late sowing, whereas the round +and oval sorts stand pretty well in hot weather, if on good ground in a +cool situation, with the help of a slight amount of shade. As the year +advances we return to the practice recommended for the earliest crops.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Radishes</b>.—These large-growing kinds are much prized by those +who use them in winter in the preparation of salads. Seed may be sown in +the open from June to August, in drills nine inches apart, and the +plants thinned to six inches in the rows. The roots may be left in the +ground and dug as required, or taken up and stored in sand. These +Radishes may also be cooked in the same manner as Turnips and they make +an excellent dish.</p> + + +<p><b>RHUBARB</b></p> + +<p><b>Rheum hybridum</b></p> + +<p>RHUBARB is so much valued that we need not recommend it. There are some +remarkably fine sorts in cultivation, adapted for early work, main-crop, +and late use.</p> + +<p>Although an accommodating plant, Rhubarb requires for profitable +production a rich deep soil, well worked, and heavily dressed with +rotten manure, and a situation remote from trees, but in some degree +sheltered. It will be observed that the markets are supplied from +sheltered alluvial soils, that have been much cultivated, and kept in +high condition by abundant manuring. On the other hand, the coarser +kinds will make a free and early growth on a damp clay, if sheltered +from the east winds that so often damage early spring vegetation. The +shortest way to establish a plantation is to purchase selected roots of +first-class named varieties, and plant them in one long row, three to +four feet apart, or in a bed or compartment four feet apart each way. +The smaller kinds will do very well at two and a half feet each way, but +for large-growing sorts this would be injuriously close. Plant with the +top bud two inches deep, tread in moderately firm, then lightly prick +the ground over, and so leave it. Rhubarb may be planted at any time in +spring or autumn but of the <a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>two the spring is preferable. In any case +where a special cultivation is determined on, it will be found that bone +manure has a wonderful effect on the growth of Rhubarb.</p> + +<p>It is not sufficient to say that the plantation must be kept free from +weeds, but the plant should be allowed to make one whole season’s growth +before a single stalk is pulled. And the pulling in the second season, +and every season thereafter, should be moderate and careful, for every +leaf removed weakens the plant, and it must be allowed-time to regain +strength for the next season. Some people know not when to leave off +pulling Rhubarb, but appear unwilling to cease until there is none to +pull; and it is a pity this should happen, especially as after the +delicate supplies of early spring are past, Rhubarb is a comparatively +poor thing, and to ruin a plantation to get stalks for wine is great +folly. For wine-making a special plantation should be made, from which +not one stick should be taken for table use. The summer stalks will then +be of a suitable character.</p> + +<p>Rhubarb is easily forced in any place where there is a moderate warmth, +and it is only needful to pack the roots in boxes with moss or any light +soil, or even rough litter. The roots will push into any moist material +and find sufficient food. If entirely exposed to the light, forced +Rhubarb has a full colour; but the quality is better, and the colour +quite sufficient, if it is forced in the dark; hence when put under the +stage in a greenhouse, or any other place where there is a fair share of +daylight, it is well to put an empty box or barrel over to promote a +certain degree of blanching.</p> + +<p>When raising Rhubarb from seed sow in spring in light soil, and the +young plants should have frame culture until strong enough to plant out. +If a great number are grown, they should all be kept in pots until the +end of the season, and then the common-looking and unpromising plants +should be destroyed, reserving the others for planting out in the +following spring. A new type of Rhubarb which is readily raised from +seed will remain in bearing continuously if put out on good ground and +given protection during severe winter weather. Seed of this strain +should be sown in March or April, in pots or boxes placed in a cold +frame. Plant out the seedlings in May and these will generally yield +sticks in the autumn. Seed may also be sown in the open ground in +spring.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a><b>SALADS</b></p> + +<p>Although the art of making Salads is to some extent understood in this +country, it must be admitted that much has yet to be learned from the +masters of Continental cookery, who utilise more plants than are +commonly used on this side of the Channel, and who impart to their +Salads an endless variety of flavourings. Here, however, we are only +concerned with the plants that are, or should be, in requisition for the +Salad-bowl at different seasons of the year. But it will not be +irrelevant to allude to the fact, admitted by medical men of high +reputation, that the appetite for fresh, crisp, uncooked vegetables is a +really healthy craving, and that free indulgence in Salads is a means of +supplying the human frame with important elements of plant-life. In the +process of cooking, certain minerals, such as salts of potash, are +abstracted from vegetables, while in Salads they are available, and +contribute both to the enjoyment and the benefit of the consumer.</p> + +<p>Our present object is to offer a reminder of the plants that must be +grown in order to supply such a variety of Salads as will fairly meet +the requirements of a generous table during the changing seasons of the +year. The culture of all the following subjects will be found under +their proper headings.</p> + +<p><b>Beet.</b>—For its distinct flavour and splendid colour Beet is highly +valued as a component of Salads. As the roots are easily stored they are +available for several months after the growing season has passed.</p> + +<p><b>Celeriac</b> is much used in French Salads, and some appreciation is now +shown for it in this country. The roots or bulbs are trimmed, washed, +and cooked in the same manner as Beet.</p> + +<p><b>Celery.</b>—This delicious Salad is in such general favour that no +comment on its virtues is necessary.</p> + +<p><b>Chervil.</b>—The curled is far handsomer than the common variety, and is +available for garnishing as well as for Salads.</p> + +<p><b>Chicory.</b>—The common Chicory (<i>Barbe de Capucin</i>) and the Brussels +variety (<i>Witloof</i>) have attained to great popularity. Both are +agreeable and wholesome, and a supply should be maintained from October +to May.</p> + +<p><b>Chives</b> find acceptance at times when the stronger flavour of Onion is +inadmissible.</p> + +<p><b>Corn Salad.</b>—The leaves should be gathered separately in the same +manner as they are collected from Spinach.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a><b>Cress</b> should be in continual readiness almost or entirely through the +year.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumber.</b>—Everybody appreciates the value of this fruit, which is +almost startling in its crisp coolness.</p> + +<p><b>Dandelion.</b>—The cultivated forms of this familiar plant are +increasingly grown for use in the Salad-bowl.</p> + +<p><b>Endive</b> has a distinct flavour which is highly appreciated; and in +winter the plant occupies the important position that Lettuce fills in +summer and autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce.</b>—All the Cabbage varieties are in great demand for Salads, +because they readily assimilate the dressing. But for delicious +crispness the Cos varieties cannot fail to maintain their position of +assured popularity.</p> + +<p><b>Mustard</b> needs only to be named. Like Cress, it is in continuous +demand.</p> + +<p><b>Nasturtium.</b>—A few flowers may always be employed to garnish a Salad, +for they are true Salad plants, and may be eaten with safety by those +who choose to eat them.</p> + +<p><b>Onion</b> imparts life to every Salad that contains it; but for the sake +of the modest people who do not fail to appreciate the advantage of its +presence, although they scruple to avow their love, there must be +discretion in determining the proportion.</p> + +<p><b>Purslane.</b>—The leaves and shoots are used for Salads, and the former +should be gathered while quite young.</p> + +<p><b>Radish</b> finds a place on the tables of the opulent and of the humblest +cottager.</p> + +<p><b>Rampion.</b>—The fleshy roots are employed in Salads in the natural +state, and also when cooked.</p> + +<p><b>Salsify</b> is commonly known as ‘Vegetable Oyster,’ and is an excellent +component of a Salad. The roots may also be allowed to put forth leaves +in the dark to furnish blanched material.</p> + +<p><b>Shallot.</b>—A delicate substitute for Onion.</p> + +<p><b>Sorrel</b> possesses a piquant flavour that can be used by the skilful +with most agreeable results.</p> + +<p><b>Tomato</b> has fought its way to popularity in this country, and now holds +a commanding position.</p> + +<p><b>Water Cress.</b>—When the tender tops can be had they are seldom allowed +to be absent from first-class Salads.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a><b>SALSIFY</b></p> + +<p><b>Tragopogon porrifolius</b></p> + +<p>Salsify may be sown from the end of March to May, but two sowings will +in most cases be sufficient. Drill the seed in rows fifteen inches apart +and one inch deep. Thin from time to time until the plants stand nine, +ten, or in an extreme case twelve, inches apart. In ordinary soil nine +inches will be sufficient. Hoe between frequently, but do not use a fork +or spade anywhere near the crop, for the loosening of the ground will +cause the roots to branch.</p> + +<p>A deep sandy soil with a coat of manure put in the bottom of the trench +will produce fine roots of Salsify. But there should be no recent manure +within fifteen inches of the surface, or the roots will be forked and +ugly. In a soil that produces handsome roots naturally the preparation +may consist in a good digging only, but generally speaking the more +liberal routine will give a better result.</p> + +<p>In November dig a portion of the crop and store in sand, and lift +further supplies as required. Some roots may be left to furnish Chards +in spring. These are the flowering-shoots which rise green and tender, +and must be cut when not more than five or six inches long. They are +dressed and served in the same way as Asparagus.</p> + +<p>Salsify is a root of high quality, the growing of which is generally +considered a test of a gardener’s skill. Perhaps the after-dressing and +serving of Salsify may be a test of the skill of the cook, but upon that +point we will not insist. It is a less troublesome root than Scorzonera, +and superior to it in beauty and flavour—in fact, it is often dressed +and served as ‘Vegetable Oyster,’ having somewhat the flavour of the +favourite bivalve.</p> + +<p>Salsify roots require to be prepared for use by scraping them, and then +steeping in water containing a little lemon juice or vinegar. They are +boiled until tender, and served with white sauce. To prepare them as the +‘Vegetable Oyster’ the roots are first boiled and allowed to get cold, +then cut in slices and quickly fried in butter to a light golden brown, +being dusted with salt and white pepper while cooking. Serve with +crisped Parsley and sauce made with butter, flour, and the liquor from +tinned or fresh oysters.</p> + + +<p><b>SAVOY</b>—<i>see page 38</i></p> + +<p><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a><b>SCORZONERA</b></p> + +<p><b>Scorzonera hispanica</b></p> + +<p>Scorzonera is not much grown in this country, but as it is prized on the +Continent, it might be introduced to many English tables with advantage. +The main point in the cultivation is to obtain large clean roots, for +carelessly grown samples will be small, forked, and fibrous. Trench a +piece of ground, and mix a good dressing of half-rotten manure with the +bottom spit, taking care that there is none in the top spit. Make a nice +seed-bed, and sow in the month of March in shallow drills fifteen inches +apart, and as the plants advance thin them until they stand a foot apart +in the drill. Keep the crop clean, and it will be fit for use in +September. Lift as wanted in the same manner as Parsnips. Seed may also +be sown in April and May.</p> + +<p>To cook the roots they must first be scalded, then scraped and thrown +into water in which there are a few drops of lemon juice. Let them +remain half an hour; boil in salted water in the same way as Carrots +until quite tender, and serve with white sauce. If left to get cold they +can be sliced and fried in butter to make a good side dish.</p> + + +<p><b>SEA KALE</b></p> + +<p><b>Crambe maritima</b></p> + +<p>Many persons prefer Sea Kale to Asparagus, but the two differ so widely +in flavour and general character that no comparison between them is +possible. On two points, however, the advantage certainly rests with Sea +Kale. It can be more easily grown, and, regarded solely as an article of +food, it is the more profitable crop. This comparison has therefore a +practical bearing. In forming a new garden, and in cases where it may +not be possible to grow both these esculents satisfactorily, Sea Kale +should have attention first, as a thing that will require but a small +investment, and that will surely pay its way, with quick returns, to the +general advantage of the household.</p> + +<p><b>Outdoor Culture.</b>—Sea Kale requires strong ground, fully exposed to +the sun, and enriched with any good manure, that from the stable being +undoubtedly the best. The most satisfactory way to begin is with +well-grown roots, as they make a return at once with the least +imaginable trouble. Let the ground be well dug two spits <a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>deep, and put +a coat of manure between; or if it is a good substantial loam, plant +without manure, and the results will be excellent. As the thriving plant +covers a considerable space, and there must be a certain amount of +traffic on the ground to manage it, there should be one row in the +centre of a four-feet bed, with a broad alley on one side; or, better +still, mark out a ten-feet space, with a three-feet alley on each side, +and in this space plant three rows two and a half feet apart, and the +roots one and a half to two feet apart. The planting may be done at any +time after the leaves have fallen, late in autumn, and during winter and +early spring. On warm, dry ground, winter planting answers perfectly, +and enables the gardener to complete the task, for there is always +enough to do in the spring months. But on damp ground and in exposed +situations the best time to plant is the month of March. Put down the +line, and open a trench one foot deep; plant the roots with their crowns +two inches below the surface, filling in and treading firmly as each +trench is planted. The precaution may be taken to pare off all the +pointed prominent buds on each crown, as this will prevent the rise of +flower-stems; but if this is neglected, the cultivator must take care to +cut out all the flowering-shoots that appear, for the production of +flowers will prove detrimental to the crop of Sea Kale in the following +season. Our custom, when a plantation has been thus made, is to grow +another crop with it the first season. The ground between the rows is +marked out in narrow strips, and lightly forked over, and if a coat of +rotten manure can be spared it is pricked in, and a neat seed-bed is +made of every strip, eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. On this +prepared bed sow Onions, Lettuces, and other light crops, and as the Sea +Kale advances take care to remove whatever would interfere with their +expansion, for the stolen crop should not stand in the way of that +intended for permanent occupation. A crop of early Cauliflower, small +Cabbage, or even Potatoes, may be taken, in which case there will be +room for only one row alternately with each row of Kale, and perhaps one +row also in the alleys.</p> + +<p>The growth of the Kale should be promoted by all legitimate means, and +in high summer it will take water, liquid manure, and mulchings of rich +stuff, to almost any extent, with advantage. The irrigation that suits +the Kale will probably also suit the stolen crop, but irrigation is not +good for Onions or Potatoes; where these crops are grown care must be +exercised to bestow the fluid on the Sea Kale only.</p> + +<p>As the leaves decay in autumn they should be removed, and <a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a>the ground +kept thoroughly clean. When finally cleaned up, let it be forked over, +but with care not to put the tool too near the plants; and if manure is +plentiful, lay down a coat for a finish, or fork it in at the general +clear up. There should now commence a systematic saving of clean leaves. +Mere vegetable rubbish is not to be thought of. Proceed to cover the +ground with leaves in heaps or ridges sufficient to make a coat finally +of about one foot deep, or say nine inches at the very least. If there +is any store of rough planking on the premises, let the planks be laid +on the ridges of leaves on whichever side the prevailing wind may be. +This will prevent the leaves being blown away, and the planks will be +handy for the next stage in the business.</p> + +<p>At the turn of the year put the planks on edge by driving posts down in +any rough way that will hold them firmly for a brief season, and then +spread the leaves equally. If there are not sufficient leaves to cover +the bed for the requisite thickness, raise a good heap over each crown, +and sprinkle a little earth to keep the heap together. But a better mode +of procedure is to have a sufficiency of Sea Kale pots with movable +covers, or in place of these large flower-pots, or old boxes. Put these +over the crowns, and then heap the leaves over and around, and the +preliminaries are completed. A very early growth will be the result, and +the quality will be finer than that of forced Sea Kale. Uncover +occasionally to see how the crop goes on, remembering that perfect +darkness is needed to blanch it completely, and to produce a plump and +delicate sample. Cut close over, taking a small portion of the woody +part of the crown, and when all the growth of a crown is taken, remove +the pot or box, but leave a thin coat of leaves on the cut crown to +protect it, as at the time of cutting Sea Kale keen east winds are +prevalent, and it is unfair to the plants to expose them suddenly. When +the crop has been taken, remove the leaves and the planks, and dig in +between the rows a thick coat of fat manure. The growth will be too +strong now for a stolen crop, and will so continue for many years. After +the crop has been secured, each crown will throw out a number of buds or +shoots. These should all be removed except two or three of the +strongest, which will form the crowns for cutting in the following year. +At the same time take away any small blanched shoots that may have been +left because they were too small or insignificant for table use. This +proceeding will prevent the production of flower-stems, which is +injurious to the plant, and there never need be any fear that the crop +will be diminished, because plenty of buds around <a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>the crowns, that do +not show themselves in the first instance, will come forward in due +time.</p> + +<p><b>Forcing.</b>—It is so easy to force Sea Kale that the cultivator may +safely be left to his own devices. But it will be well, perhaps, to say +that perfect darkness is requisite, and the temperature should not +exceed 60° at any time, this being the maximum figure. A rise above 60° +will produce a thin or wiry sample. It is sufficient to begin with a +temperature of 45°, and to rise no higher than 55°, to insure a really +creditable growth. The market growers are not very particular as to +temperature, but then they do not eat the crop, or know much of it after +it has left their hands. With the gardener in a domestic establishment +the case is different; and we venture to advise young men—to whom book +advice is often valuable as entailing no obligations—that Sea Kale +slowly forced may be nearly as good as that grown under pots in the open +without any heat at all; better it cannot be. Any spare pits or odd +places may be made use of for this crop, provided only that the heat is +not too great. Pack the roots in mould or leaves, or even half-rotten +manure, and shut them up to exclude light, and the crop will be ready in +five or six weeks, unless forcing is commenced very early, in which case +seven weeks at least must be allowed from the time of planting to that +of the first cutting. Roots that have been lifted for forcing should be +thrown away when the crop has been secured, but roots forced in the open +ground suffer so little by the process that they may be forced for +several years in succession ere it becomes necessary to renew the +plantation, provided, of course, that the work is well done. The outdoor +forcing is accomplished in the way described for growing the crop, with +the aid of leaves only, but with certain differences. In the first +place, care must be taken to let the plants feel the cold, but at the +same time to prevent the ground becoming frozen. A touch of frost will +render them more ready to grow when the cultivator brings his +persuasions to bear by heaping hot manure over the pots, and covering +the bed with a thick coat of the same. This is all that can be done, but +it is sufficient. In cases where leaves and other suitable materials are +not available, good Sea Kale may be grown by simply raising over each +crown a heap of sand or sifted coal ashes, provided some clean material +be interposed to keep the sand or ashes from actual contact with the +plant. When this heap begins to crack at the top it will be worth while +to examine it at the bottom, when there will be found a fine head of +blanched Sea Kale, and the mound will have served its purpose.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a><b>To grow Sea Kale from seed</b> is a simple matter enough, but there is a +loss of a year as compared with growing it from roots. The ground should +be rich and well worked, and the seed sown in March or April in drills +one foot asunder if for planting out, or in patches about two and a half +feet apart each way if to remain. It is believed by many that Sea Kale +should stand where sown, and we admit that analogies are in favour of +the proposal. But every year such fine produce is obtained from +transplanted roots that we have not the courage to condemn a course of +procedure which may not be theoretically correct. The fact is, the root +is tough and enduring, and suffers but little by moderate exposure to +the atmosphere if handled in a reasonable manner. But to return to the +seeds: they sprout quickly, and, soon after, the plants make rapid +progress. Let them have liberal culture, keep them scrupulously clean, +and thin in good time. If quite convenient, give a light sprinkling of +salt occasionally in the summer: they will enjoy it, and the leaves will +not be injured in the least.</p> + + +<p><b>SHALLOT</b></p> + +<p><b>Allium ascalonicum</b></p> + + +<p>The old-fashioned mode of culture is to plant on the shortest, and lift +the crop on the longest, day; but that is only applicable to the milder +parts of the country. As a rule, spring is the best time for planting, +and it should be done as early as the ground can be got into working +order—certainly not later than the middle of April. The soil should be +in a friable condition, and it must be trodden firmly, after the manner +usual for an Onion bed. Merely press the bulbs into the soil to keep +them in position, and put them in rows one foot apart, and nine inches +apart in the rows. They should not be earthed up, but, on the contrary, +when approaching maturity the soil should be drawn away so as to expose +the bulbs, for this facilitates the ripening process.</p> + +<p>To store the roots for any length of time it will be necessary to have +them well ripened, and this point demands consideration. If dry weather +could be insured for harvesting the crop, it might be allowed to finish +in the ground; but as this cannot be relied on, it is a wise precaution +to lift the crop on some suitable opportunity before it is quite ready, +and allow the ripening to be completed in a protected airy place.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a><b>SPINACH</b></p> + +<p><b>Spinacia oleracea</b></p> + +<p>Spinach plays an important part in the economy of the dinner table. +There are unfortunate beings who cannot eat it, for they describe it as +bitter, sooty, and nauseous. Probably an equal number of persons +entertain a very high opinion as to its value. The rest of mankind +proclaim it a wholesome, savoury, and acceptable vegetable. Spinach will +grow anywhere and anyhow; but some little management is needed to keep +up a constant supply of large, dark green leaves, that when properly +cooked will be rich in flavour as the result of good cultivation. To +produce first-class Spinach a well-tilled rich loam is needed, but a +capital sample may be grown on clay that has been some time in +cultivation.</p> + +<p><b>Summer Spinach.</b>—The early sowings of Round or Summer Spinach should +be in a sheltered situation, but not directly shaded. Sow in drills +twelve to fifteen inches apart, and one inch deep, beginning in January, +although the first sowing may fail, and continue to sow about every +fortnight until the middle of May. The earliest sowing should be on dry +ground, but the later sowings will do well on damp soil with a little +shade from the midday sun. It is important to thin the crop early, as it +should not be in the least drawn. This is the only essential point in +securing a fine growth, for if the plant cannot spread from the +beginning it will never become luxuriant, and will soon run up to seed. +Thin at first to six inches, and if large enough for use, send the +thinnings into the house. Before the leaves overlap thin finally to +twelve inches. Every plant will cover the space, and it will suffice to +take the largest leaves, two or three only from each plant, and thus a +basket may be filled in a few minutes with really fine Spinach.</p> + +<p>As the heat of the summer increases, the crop will be inclined to bolt. +The starved plant will bolt first; the plant in rich moist soil, with +plenty of room to spread, will be more leisurely about it, and will give +time for the production of a succession crop to take its place. The +sowings from May to July should be small and numerous, and on rich moist +land, to be aided, if needful, with water. In many gardens there is a +sufficient variety of vegetables after the middle of June to render it +unnecessary to keep up the supplies of Spinach, and it is best to +dispense with it, if possible, during July and August.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a><b>Winter Spinach.</b>—The sowing of Winter Spinach should commence in +July, and be continued until the end of September, subject to the +capabilities of the place. In gardens near towns, where the land is at +all heavy, it is generally useless to sow after August, as the autumnal +fogs are likely to destroy a plant that is only just out of the +seed-leaf. But in favoured localities, with a warm soil and a soft air, +seed may be sown up to the very end of the year with but little risk of +loss. The winter crops are sometimes sown broadcast, but drilling is to +be preferred, and the rows may be twelve to fifteen inches apart. Thin +at first to three inches, and afterwards to six inches, and leave them +at this distance, for Winter Spinach may be a little crowded with +advantage, because the weather and the black bot will now and then +remove a plant. Should ground vermin claim attention, the best way to +proceed will be to scratch shallow furrows very near the plants, taking +care not to injure them. This may be done with the hoe, but if time can +be spared it will be better to do it with a short pointed stick, having +at hand, as the work progresses, a vessel into which to throw the grubs +as they come to light when the earth is disturbed. Where small birds are +in sufficient numbers, they will observe the disturbance of the earth, +and diligently search for the grubs at hours when the cultivator is no +longer on the search himself.</p> + +<p>The July sowings will be useful in the autumn and throughout the winter, +as the weather may determine; the later sowings will be useful in +spring. Plants may be drawn where they can be spared to make room for +the remainder, but leaves only should be taken when the plant is large +enough to supply them. When symptoms of bolting become visible in the +spring, cut the plants over at the collar, and at once prepare the +ground for another crop.</p> + +<p><b>New Zealand Spinach</b> (<i>Tetragonia expansa</i>).—Gardeners are only too +well acquainted with the difficulty of maintaining an unbroken supply of +true Spinach during the burning summer months. But the weather which +makes it almost impossible to produce a satisfactory crop of <i>Spinacia +oleracea</i> brings New Zealand Spinach to perfection. The latter is prized +by some persons because it lacks the peculiar bitterness of the former. +The plant is rather tender, and therefore to obtain an early supply the +seed must be raised in heat. It may be sown in pots or pans at the end +of March or beginning of April. Transfer the seedlings to small pots +immediately they are large enough, and gradually harden in preparation +for removal to the open ground towards the end of May. They <a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>should be +put into light soil in a sunny position, and be allowed three or four +feet apart each way. It is not unusual to grow them on a heap of +discarded potting soil, where they can ramble without restraint. The +growth is rapid, and there must be no stint of water in dry weather. In +five or six weeks the first lot of tender shoots will be ready for +pinching off. Those who do not care to incur trouble under glass may sow +in the open in the early part of May, and thin the plants to the +distance named.</p> + +<p><b>Perpetual Spinach, or Spinach Beet</b> (<i>Beta Cicla</i>).—A valuable plant +for producing a regular supply of leaves which make an excellent Spinach +at a period of the year when the ordinary Summer Spinach is past its +prime. Although it is a true Beet, the roots are worthless, and there +should be liberal treatment to insure an abundant growth of leaves. Seed +may be sown from March to the end of July or beginning of August, in +rows one foot apart. Thin the plants to a distance of six or eight +inches in the rows. When the leaves are ready for gathering, they must +be removed, whether wanted or not, to promote continuous growth.</p> + +<p><b>Orache</b> is frequently used as a substitute for Spinach where the +ordinary variety fails. Seed should be sown during the spring months, +and as the plant frequently attains a height of five feet allow a +distance of at least three feet in each direction for development. Red +Orache is useful for growing in ornamental borders, but it is not so +suitable for culinary purposes as the white variety. The leaves only are +eaten.</p> + + +<p><b>STACHYS TUBERIFERA</b></p> + + +<p>This vegetable is commonly known as the Chinese Artichoke, and from the +peculiar form it is also called Spirals. A wide difference of opinion +exists as to its value, but in its favour the fact may be stated that +tubers are often exhibited in the finest collections of vegetables +staged for competition.</p> + +<p>The time for planting is early spring, in rows eighteen inches apart, +allowing a distance of nine inches in the rows. The proper depth is four +inches. The roots are quite hardy and the crop gives no trouble. After +planting it is only necessary to keep the plot free from weeds.</p> + +<p>The tubers do not mature until late in autumn, and as far as possible it +is advisable to lift them when they are wanted. Should it <a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>be necessary +for any reason to clear the ground, the Stachys must be covered with +soil. When exposed to light and air they soon become discoloured and are +then unfit for cooking. It is usual to boil them in the same manner as +Potatoes, but the finish must be by steam alone. An agreeable variation +consists in frying the boiled roots with butter until slightly brown, +when the dish is considered by many connoisseurs to be very delicious +and suitable for serving with poultry or joint.</p> + + +<p><b>STRAWBERRY</b></p> + +<p><b>Fragaria</b></p> + + +<p>Probably the first thought will be that the Strawberry is a fruit, and +that the consideration of its treatment is out of place in a series of +articles on the culture of vegetables. The answer is that the plant +forms an essential feature in every good Kitchen Garden, and the general +routine of work has to be arranged with due regard to this crop, so that +we need make no apology for alluding to it here.</p> + +<p><b>When to Plant.</b>—The Strawberry is the most certain of all our hardy +fruits, and is much valued both for eating fresh as a summer luxury and +as a preserve for winter use. Although it deserves the best of +cultivation, its demands are few, for under the poorest system of +management it is often extremely prolific, and not unseldom the most +profitable crop in the garden. We have choice of seeds, divisions, and +runners in making a plantation of Strawberries. The universal way is the +best way, and it consists in planting rooted runners of named sorts in +an open sunny spot in well-prepared ground any time during spring or +autumn, when fresh and good runners are obtainable; but late planting is +undesirable, for when the plants have not time to establish themselves +before winter sets in many are lost. If, therefore, the planting cannot +be accomplished at the latest by the beginning of October, it is better +to defer the task until the spring. Plants put in at the latter time +should have the flower-stems removed, and will then yield a heavy crop +in the succeeding season.</p> + +<p><b>Treatment of Soil.</b>—The best soil for Strawberries is a rich, moist, +sandy loam, but a heavy soil will answer perfectly if it is well +prepared. The ground should be trenched and liberally enriched with +rotten manure placed between the top and bottom spits, where the plants +will reach it when they are most in need. In a new soil <a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>that is rather +stiff it will be advisable, when the trenching has been completed, to +put down the line and cut shallow trenches, which should be filled with +any rather fine kindly stuff that may be at hand, such as old hot-bed +soil, leaf-mould, or a mixture of material turned out of pots, with some +good decayed manure. In this the young plants will root freely and +quickly without becoming gross, for they should attain a certain degree +of vigour; but an excessive leaf growth may result in losses during +winter, and a small crop of fruit in the following year. Well-cultivated +soils need no such special preparation, but in any case a good digging +and a liberal manuring are absolutely necessary. And here it may be well +to state that after the plants have obtained a firm hold on the soil it +matters not how hard the ground becomes. The practice of some growers in +running a plough lightly between the rows either for a mulch, or to give +the plants the full benefit of rain, does not in the least degree upset +this conclusion, for this only creates a loose and friable surface, and +the operation is so managed that the soil near the roots remains +undisturbed. It may be accepted as a secret of successful Strawberry +culture that the bed should be firm and compact, and, in forcing, this +principle is so far recognised that the soil is positively rammed into +the pots.</p> + +<p><b>Method of Planting.</b>—If Strawberry plants come to hand somewhat dry, +unpack them quickly, and spread them in small lots in a cool shady +place, and sprinkle lightly with water to refresh them. A deluge of +water is not needed, and in fact will do harm, but enough to moisten +them will put them in a condition to begin growing as soon as they are +properly located. In planting, a little extra care in the disposition of +the roots in the soil will be well repaid, for plants merely thrust into +the ground cannot develop that robust root growth on which the future of +the crop largely depends. When preparing the positions it is an +excellent plan to build in the centre of each excavation a mound of +earth over which to spread the fibrous roots. Then return the soil and +firmly tread down. As a finish give each plant a copious watering. On no +account should the plant be deeply buried, but the crown should be left +just clear of the surface level. The distances in planting will have to +be determined by the relative vigour of the varieties and the nature of +the ground. As a rule the rows should be two feet apart, and the plants +eighteen inches in the rows, but some varieties require fully two and a +half feet between the rows. It is good practice to leave a three-feet +space between every two rows for necessary traffic.<a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a> A modification of +the plan consists in planting a foot apart each way; and immediately the +first crop of fruit is off every alternate row is removed, and then +every alternate plant in each row is also taken out. This places the +remainder at two feet every way. The ground is then lightly forked and a +heavy coat of manure put on.</p> + +<p><b>The general management</b> comprises keeping down weeds, supplying water +abundantly in dry weather, especially when the berries are swelling, and +removing runners as fast as they appear, for to allow them to get ahead +is most injurious, and any serious neglect of this rule is likely to +ruin the plantation. The Strawberry plant makes no proper return on a +dry lumpy soil. Large plantations that cannot be watered must be aided +in the height of the season by covering the ground with any light +material which will prevent evaporation. As to obtaining runners, that +is easy enough, but there is a good way and a bad way. To allow them to +spread and root promiscuously is the bad way; it injures the plants, +makes the bed disorderly, and does not produce good runners. At the time +when runners begin to push, dig and manure the surrounding spaces, and +allow a certain number of runners to come out from each side of the +rows. As they approach maturity and are disposed to make roots, lay +tiles or stones upon the runners near to the young plants to favour the +process, but a neater way will be to peg them down. Or they may be fixed +by short pegs in small pots, filled with light rich earth and plunged in +the soil.</p> + +<p>To keep the crop clean many plans are adopted, and the plant probably +takes its name from the old custom of covering the ground with straw for +the purpose. The cultivator must be left to his own devices, because of +the difficulty in many places of obtaining suitable material. But we +must warn the beginner in Strawberry culture against grass mowings as +more or less objectionable. They sometimes answer perfectly, and at +other times they encourage slugs and snails to spoil the crop, and if +partially rotted by wet weather communicate to the fruit a bad flavour. +There is a very simple means of feeding the crop and making a clean bed +for the fruit. It consists in putting on a good coat of long, strong +manure in February, and in doing this it is no great harm if the plants +are in some degree covered. They will soon push up and show themselves, +and by the time the fruit appears the straw will be washed clean, and +the crop being thus aided will be a great one, weather permitting. As +regards cutting off the leaves, we advise the removal of old large +leaves as soon as the crop is gathered. But this should be done with a +knife; <a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>to use a scythe amongst Strawberries is to ruin the plantation. +The object of removing old leaves is to admit light and air to the young +leaves, for on the free growth of these the formation of good crowns for +the next year’s use depends. By encouraging the young leaves to grow, +root action is promoted, and the embryo buds are formed that will, in +the next summer, develop into Strawberries.</p> + +<p>Some gardeners recommend the removal of the Strawberry plantation every +three years. It is a better plan to make a small plantation annually, +and at the same time destroy an old plantation that has served its turn. +But we are bound to say that Strawberry plantations, well made and well +kept, will often last and prove profitable for six or even more years. +But this will never be the case where there is a stint of manure or +water, or where the runners are allowed to run in their own way to make +a Strawberry mat and a jam of the wrong sort. The Strawberry fancier +does not wish to keep a plantation any great length of time, and he must +plant annually to taste the new sorts. This to many people is one of the +chief delights of the garden, and it certainly has its attractions.</p> + +<p><b>Forced Strawberries.</b>—The high price realised on the market for the +earliest supply of forced Strawberries is a sufficient proof that +society is prepared to pay handsomely for this refreshing luxury. As the +season advances and competition becomes keen the figure rapidly +declines, but ‘Strawberries at a guinea an ounce’ has more than once +appeared as a sensational head-line in the daily press.</p> + +<p>The fruiting of Strawberries in pots is part of the annual routine of +nearly all large establishments, but even with the most perfect +appliances it must be admitted that to produce berries which win +appreciation for their size, colour, and flavour demands both skill and +patience, especially patience.</p> + +<p>Strong well-rooted plants are essential to success, and no trouble +should be spared to secure them from robust free-fruiting stocks. The +earliest runners must either be layered on square pieces of mellow turf +or over thumb pots filled with a good rich compost. When the runners are +fairly rooted in the layers of turf or the thumb pots they should be +transferred to pots of the fruiting size. No. 32 is generally used for +the purpose. After the pots have been crocked some growers add a layer +of half-inch bones, which aid the plants and insure free drainage. The +most satisfactory soil is a rich fibrous loam, with the addition of +one-fourth of well-rotted manure and a small proportion of sand, and the +compost must be well firmed into the pots with the ramming stick.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>The best place to keep the plants is an open airy situation, easily +accessible, where the pots can stand on a bed of ashes. On the approach +of frost they can be transferred to a cold frame, keeping them close to +the glass, or they may be plunged in ashes in some sheltered position.</p> + +<p>When the time arrives for forcing, it is usual to commence by plunging +the pots in a bed of warm leaves or in a mild half-spent hot-bed. +Immediately the plants show sign of blooming they must be shifted to +warmer quarters. A shelf at the back of an early vinery or Peach-house, +quite near the glass, is a suitable position. The temperature at +starting should be 55° Fahr., rising gradually to 60° by the time the +leafage is thoroughly developed.</p> + +<p>The appearance of the flower trusses is a critical period. Liquid manure +should then be given freely, and at the same time the plants must have +abundance of light and a warm dry atmosphere. The blossoms need to be +artificially fertilised with a camel’s-hair pencil, choosing midday as +the best time for this operation.</p> + +<p>When the crop has set it must be thinned to about nine berries on each +plant, and in due time the fruits should have the support of forked +sticks. Care will be necessary to prevent injury to the stalks, or the +flow of sap to the berries may be arrested. Syringe twice a day in dry +weather; and on the first show of colour discontinue the manure-water +and use pure soft water only. At this stage a night temperature of 65° +must be maintained, giving all the air and light possible.</p> + +<p>More failures in the pot culture of Strawberries are attributable to +neglect in watering than to any other cause. The soil must never be +allowed to become dry. Should the leaves once droop they seldom recover. +At least twice a day the plants will need attention, and it is important +that the water should be of the same temperature as the atmosphere. +Always leave the cans full in readiness for the next visit.</p> + +<p><b>Alpine Strawberries</b> are very largely grown in France, probably more so +than the large-fruited varieties which are popular in this country. The +best method is to sow the seeds in January, in pans filled with a light +rich compost and placed in a gentle heat. Prick out the plants on to a +bed of light soil in a frame, or on a nearly exhausted hot-bed, whence +they should be taken to the open ground. From these sowings fine fruits +may usually be gathered in the following September. Seeds may also be +sown outdoors in spring or in September in shallow drills, six inches +<a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>apart, on a bed of light soil. Transplant in due course for fruiting in +the succeeding Strawberry season. When a full crop has been gathered the +plants should be destroyed, a succession being kept up by sowing +annually. By slowly growing the plants from spring-sown seeds and +potting in autumn, it is not a difficult matter to have Alpines in fruit +under glass at Christmas.</p> + + +<p><b>SUNFLOWER</b></p> + +<p><b>Helianthus annuus</b></p> + + +<p>Although the Sunflower is not utilised as food for man, the plant is +frequently grown in the Kitchen Garden, partly as an ornament, and also +for the production of seeds which are given to poultry.</p> + +<p>As regards cultivation, sow in pans in April, and put on a gentle +hot-bed, or shut up close in a sunny frame. The plants will soon appear. +Give them light and air, and plant out when they are two or three inches +high. But Sunflowers can be grown without any kind of artificial aid. A +simple and effectual method is to make the spot intended for them very +rich, and dibble the seed an inch deep on the first day of May.</p> + + +<p><b>TOMATO</b></p> + +<p><b>Lycopersicum esculentum</b></p> + + +<p>The taste for Tomatoes often begins with a little antipathy, but it is +soon acquired, and not infrequently develops into decided fondness for +the fruit both cooked and in its natural condition. As a necessary +article of food the call for it in this country is no longer limited to +a select circle of epicures, for the value of its refreshing, +appetising, and corrective properties is now widely recognised, and its +advance in public favour has been accelerated by the improved quality, +enhanced beauty, and increased variety effected by expert raisers.</p> + +<p>The Tomato is a tender, but not a tropical plant, and it requires a +moderately high temperature, free access of air, and above all a full +flood of solar light to bring it to perfection. The necessary heat is +easily managed in any garden equipped with ordinary forcing appliances; +so also is a current of air in properly constructed buildings; but the +deficiency of light during the darker months renders the task of +producing fruit in midwinter less easy than at other seasons. By the +introduction of varieties possessing increased <a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>powers of crop-setting, +however, the difficulty of winter fruiting has been largely overcome, so +that, with efficient management, it is now possible to send Tomatoes to +table throughout the year.</p> + +<p>Almost every imaginable glass structure can be employed for growing +Tomatoes, from the small suburban greenhouse to the vast span-roof, +hundreds of feet in length, devoted to their culture in the Channel +Islands. And it is not essential that the crop should be grown alone. +Potatoes, French Beans, Strawberries, and Vines may be forced in the +same building, provided there be no obstruction to light and air, nor +any interference with the conditions which experience has proved to be +imperative for sustaining the plants in vigorous health. For winter and +spring gathering there must be a service of hot-water pipes, but as the +season advances it is easy to ripen fruit in cool houses, and later on +plants outdoors will in favourable seasons yield an abundant return +without artificial protection of any kind.</p> + +<p><b>INDOOR CULTURE—Sowing and Transplanting.</b>—Seed may be sown at almost +any time of the year, but the most important months are January to +March, August and September. In gardens favourably situated in the South +of England and furnished with the most perfect appliances, seed is sown +in all these months, and in others also; but in smaller gardens sowings +are generally restricted to February and March. Whenever a start is made +sow thinly and about half an inch deep, in pans or boxes, and do not +allow the seedlings to remain in them for an unnecessary day. +Immediately two or at most four leaves are formed either prick off into +other pans or boxes, or transfer singly to thumb pots, and as a rule the +pots will be found preferable. The soil for these pans or pots should be +stored in the greenhouse a few days in advance of the transfer, so that +the compost may acquire the proper temperature and save the plants from +an untimely check. In small houses place the plants near the glass that +they may remain short in the joint, but on cold nights they must be +taken down to avoid injury from fluctuations of temperature. In large +houses, where the light is well diffused, there is no need to incur this +trouble, for the seedlings will do equally well on the ground level. In +due time shift into six-inch pots, from which they can go straight to +borders, or into a larger size if they are to be fruited in pots. About +fourteen weeks will be required to prepare the plants for borders in the +winter season, but a shorter period will suffice in spring and summer. +Plants from an August or September sowing will not mature fruit in <a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>much +less than six months, while a March sowing will yield a return in four +months or less. A great deal depends on the character of the season, and +more on skill and attention. Those who sow in January or February should +sow again a fortnight later, and onwards until the end of April, +according to requirements. For winter supplies a first sowing may be +made in June, in a cold frame, and prepared for transfer to fruiting +pots in September.</p> + +<p><b>Treatment of Soil.</b>—In the first instance there need be no anxiety +about soil. Any fairly good sandy loam will answer for the seed-pans, +and if too stiff it may be freely mixed with sharp sand or the sifted +sweepings from roads and gravel walks. A fibrous loam, cut from a rich +pasture, and laid up in a heap for twelve months, will, with an addition +of wood ashes and grit, make an ideal soil for pots or borders. As the +plants advance, leaf-mould or thoroughly decayed manure in moderate +quantity should be supplied; but, instead of incorporating it with the +loam in the usual way, it will be found advantageous to place the manure +immediately above the crocks, and the roots will find it at the right +time. But the quantity of manure must not be overdone, especially in the +earlier stages of growth, because excessive luxuriance neither promotes +fruitfulness nor conduces to early ripening. After the fruit has set, a +mulch of decayed manure will aid the plants in finishing a heavy crop. +Manure which is only partially fermented will not do at all. The ammonia +it liberates exerts so deadly a power that the plants are quickly +scorched.</p> + +<p>In its demand for potash the Tomato closely resembles the Potato, and of +the two the former is the more exacting. So quickly does this crop +exhaust the soil, that in small houses it is usual to take out the earth +to a depth of fifteen or eighteen inches every second or third year, and +replace it with virgin loam. Others grow the Tomatoes alternately in the +bed and in pots, but this is only a partial remedy. Constant dressings +of farmyard or stable manure result in the formation of humus, which, as +it becomes sour, has to be sweetened by the solvent influence of lime. +The chief objection to the use of stable manure, however, even when well +rotted, is that it induces a free growth of foliage instead of promoting +an early development of fruit. The most enduring method is that which is +based on chemical knowledge of the constituents of the soil, and the +relation which the plant bears to it. One of the most successful growers +for the London market almost entirely avoids the use of stable manure, +and he is able, by applications of nitrate of potash, dissolved bones, +and <a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a>the occasional use of lime, to grow splendid crops in the same +houses year after year.</p> + +<p>All the conditions which answer for border work are applicable to pots, +and a limited number of plants brought forward in succession will supply +the requirements of a small household from early spring until near +Christmas. The pot system is conducive to free setting and to early +ripening, and for these reasons it is worth attention. The plants should +be kept short in the joint by frequent shifts until the twelve-inch pot +is reached, and this size will accommodate two cordons or one plant +having two branches, each of which will require a separate stake for its +support. Plunging the pots can be adopted to save labour in watering.</p> + +<p><b>Temperatures.</b>—No advantage is to be gained by attempting to force +Tomatoes in a higher temperature than is consistent with healthy +progress, although in winter there is great temptation in the direction +of overheating. Full time for development in moderate heat will bring +stout joints, and impart a vigorous constitution that materially aids +the plants in resisting the insidious attacks of disease. The waning +autumn and dull winter days are the most troublesome periods of +management, and it is remarkable that of two days equal in duration and +apparently in other conditions, the autumnal appears to be less +favourable than the spring day. But if, on the one hand, a high +temperature is injurious, a low temperature must be avoided; although +for a time it may not appear to be harmful. A temperature of 60° or 65° +suits the seed-pans, and after transfer to pots and the roots have +become established, the thermometer should not register less than 55° +during the night. It may rise 10° by means of fire heat in the daytime, +and during bursts of sunshine another 10° or 15° will be quite safe, +always assuming that the roots are not dry, and that the plants have +free ventilation.</p> + +<p><b>Watering.</b>—The judicious administration of water forms an important +feature in the culture of the Tomato. The plant is too succulent to +endure drought with impunity, and it is mere folly to toy with the +water-can. Saturate down to the roots, and then leave the plants alone +until more water is wanted. No hard and fast rule can be stated as to +frequency. It depends on the condition of the soil, the period of the +year, and the age of the plants. Borders and soil for pots should be +made sufficiently moist in advance, so that watering will not be +necessary immediately after the plants are transferred. The prevalent +opinion that excessive watering generates disease is not confirmed by +our experience. Of course the watering <a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>should not be excessive for many +reasons, but the diseases which are often attributed to over-watering +are the result of atmospheric mismanagement.</p> + +<p><b>General Treatment.</b>—Authorities are not agreed as to whether branched +plants or simple cordons yield the better results. In our judgment the +single stem deserves preference, and it is now more extensively grown +than any other form, although plants having two branches are almost +equally popular. Certainly the cordon can be managed with extreme ease; +it is admittedly the earliest producer, and there is a general consensus +of opinion that the fruit it produces is unsurpassed in size and +quality. The doubtful point is quantity, but even here the difference, +if any, is too trifling to be worth the consideration of private +growers. Cordons are formed by removing the laterals as fast as they +appear, and when the fruit has set, or the requisite height is attained, +the top is also pinched out.</p> + +<p>The space allowed for each plant varies greatly, especially among +growers for market. Under glass every branched Tomato should be allowed +at least three feet each way. For cordons we advocate a distance between +the rows of three feet, and a space of two feet in the row is not too +much. The stems require support of some kind, and stakes are preferable +to string; but of course the stems may be secured to wires whenever it +is convenient to run the plants immediately under the glass.</p> + +<p>Another point upon which authorities differ is the extent to which +Tomatoes should be denuded of their foliage. Some growers condemn the +procedure entirely; others reduce their plants to skeletons. Both +extremes are objectionable, for when all the leaves are permitted to +remain there is delay or partial failure in colouring the fruit, and the +almost entire removal of foliage checks the root action injuriously. In +practice it answers well to wait until the fruit has set, then by +pinching out the leading point of each leaf, commencing at the bottom, +ripening and colouring are promoted, and the health of the plant remains +unimpaired.</p> + +<p>In dull weather, and especially in short days, a difficulty is sometimes +experienced in setting the fruit, particularly the first bunch. After +fruit has begun to swell on one bunch, the remainder set with +comparative ease. A rather higher temperature than usual combined with +free movement of the atmosphere is generally sufficient to insure +fertilisation. If assistance is necessary, however, water the plants +early in the afternoon, and close the house rather before the usual +time. The warm atmosphere will develop plenty of pollen, and a <a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a>gentle +shaking of the flower bunches with a slight touch from a hazel twig will +liberate visible clouds, which will effectually set the fruit. Another +method is to lift a flat label or paper knife against the flowers. The +label becomes covered with pollen, and by gently touching each flower +with a slight upward pressure a great number can be fertilised in a few +minutes. A soft brush passed over the flowers daily has the same effect. +Plants in the open ground need no such attention if they are in good +health and the season is at all genial. When a bunch of flowers contains +one that is fasciated or confused, the flower should be pinched out to +prevent the formation of large and ugly fruit. The remainder of the +bunch will be the finer for its absence.</p> + +<p><b>OUTDOOR CULTURE.</b>—For the open ground it is important to choose a +variety that ripens early. The plants should be vigorous, and they must +be carefully hardened before they are put out. Sow the seed in heat in +February or March, and when large enough transfer the seedlings to +single pots until wanted. Every effort should be made to avoid giving +the plants a check, and if room is available they may be potted on to +the six-inch size and allowed to form one truss of bloom before planting +out, thus saving valuable time. The end of May is usually the right time +for transfer to the open, but Tomatoes will not endure a keen east wind +or nipping frost. During the prevalence of unfavourable weather it is +advisable to wait a week or more rather than risk the destruction of the +plants. When the temperature appears to be fairly reliable, put them +into holes a foot deep and eighteen inches across, filled with light +soil not too rich. For a few nights until the roots take hold slight +protection should be at hand to assure safety; Sea Kale pots answer +admirably, and are easily placed in position. In addition to beds all +sorts of places are suitable for Tomatoes, such as under warm palings or +walls, on sloping banks and in sheltered nooks, where they will thrive +and yield valuable fruit. Stout stakes are required and should be +promptly provided. Pinch out the lateral shoots, and as soon as the +fruits commence to colour some of the largest leaves may be partially +removed. Early in August nip out the tips of the leaders in order to +encourage ripening. Thus in the open garden a supply of this delicacy +may be insured for part of the year equal in quality to fruit which is +grown under glass. (<i>See also page 181</i>.)</p> + +<p><b>The diseases of the Tomato</b> are dealt with in the chapter on The Fungus +Pests of certain Garden Plants.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a><b>TURNIP</b></p> + +<p><b>Brassica Rapa</b></p> + + +<p>The Turnip is not a difficult garden crop; indeed, the simplest +management will produce an ample supply, and any fairly good ground will +suffice for it. But whatever is worth doing is worth doing well, and a +gardener may be pardoned for taking an especial pride in producing a +sufficiency of handsome and tender Turnips. The great point is to insure +a succession through a long season, or, say, the whole year round, for +Turnips are always in request, and at certain periods of the year +delicate young roots are greatly valued for the table.</p> + +<p>The finest Turnips are grown in deep, sandy loam, kept in a high state +of cultivation. Useful Turnips may be grown on any soil, but a handsome +sample of the finest quality cannot be produced on heavy clay or thin +limestone. In common with other fast-growing plants of the cruciferous +order, Turnips must have lime in some form, and in many gardens it will +occasionally be necessary to give a dressing of lime in addition to the +ordinary manure. Superphosphate, bone, and old plaster or mortar from +destroyed buildings, are all valuable in preparing the soil for this +crop.</p> + +<p><b>Times of Sowing.</b>—An early crop of small bulbs may be grown by sowing +in January on a very gentle hot-bed as prescribed for early Radishes, +and it may be well to add, that in an emergency white Turnip Radishes +may be made to take the place of Turnips, both to flavour soups and to +appear as a dish in the usual way. Fast-growing Turnips may be sown on a +sheltered warm border in February and March, to be carefully watched and +protected when unkind weather prevails. In April and May sowings should +be made consistently with the probable wants of the household, but the +May sowings should comprise two or three sorts in the event of hot dry +weather spoiling some of them.</p> + +<p>The principal sowings for autumn and winter supplies are made in June +and July, but seed may also be sown in August. Ground from which some +crop, such as Peas, has just been cleared generally needs little +preparation beyond breaking the surface with a hoe, followed by a good +raking. Thin the plants early and let them stand finally at six to nine +inches apart in the rows. For late crops seed is often sown broadcast, +the roots being pulled as they mature.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a><b>General Culture.</b>—It is advisable to sow Turnips in drills on a fine +tilth, and it is an advantage to have a sufficiency of some stimulating +manure near the surface to hurry the growth of the young plant, for the +danger of fly belongs to the seed-leaf stage. Generally speaking, the +Turnip fly does but little harm in gardens; but where it is much feared, +the seed should be sown in prepared drills to encourage a quick growth. +Draw the drills twelve to fifteen inches apart, three inches deep, and +about the same width, and almost fill them with rotten manure, or with a +mixture of earth and guano, or wood ashes; cover this with a little fine +soil to prevent injury to the seed; then sow, and lightly conceal the +seed with earth as a finish. If the ground is sufficiently moist, growth +will commence almost immediately, and the plant will come up strong, and +very quickly put forth rough leaves. In the general management more +depends on timely and judicious thinning than upon any other point. If +Turnips are not well thinned, so that each plant can spread its green +head unimpeded by the leaves of a neighbour, a good growth cannot be +expected; and thinning by the hoe should be commenced as soon as the +rough leaves appear. The operation must be repeated until the plants are +at a suitable distance, and then comes the process of singling, which +should be done by hand. It will be found that in many cases two or three +little plants stand together looking like one. There must be only one +left at each station, and that should be the shortest. The distances may +vary from four to ten inches, according to the vigour of the variety and +the kind of Turnips required. An easy and profitable plan is to allow a +certain number of bulbs to swell to supply young Turnips, and, by +drawing these, leave room for the remainder of the crop to attain its +proper size for storing.</p> + +<p>The Turnip likes a light soil, but does not well endure the occasional +dryness to which light soils are subject. This fact accounts for many +failures of the crop in a hot dry season, for sunshine suits the Turnip, +but it must have moisture or suffer deterioration in some way. If, +therefore, the soil becomes dry, and there is no prospect of rain, the +Turnips should have water, not simply to moisten the surface, but to go +to the roots, for frequent watering is not good for the crop, as it +tends to spoil the beauty of the bulbs, and promotes a rank leaf-growth +which is not wanted. An occasional heavy watering in dry weather will +also do much towards the repression of the many enemies that beset this +useful root—the jumpers, the grubs, the weevils, and the rest of the +vermin will be routed out of their snug <a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>hiding-places in the dusty soil +when the watering takes place, and the death of many will follow. But so +long as the soil is fairly moist at the depth the roots are ranging, +there is no need for watering, and the time it would consume may be +utilised for other work.</p> + +<p><b>Lifting and Storing.</b>—On the approach of winter a certain portion of +the Turnip crop should be lifted and stored. In doing this the tops must +be cut off, not too close, but just leaving a slight green neck, and the +roots should be rather shortened than removed; at all events, to cut the +roots off close is bad practice: when so treated the bulbs do not keep +well. Any rough storage answers for Turnips, the object being to keep +them plump by excluding the atmosphere, and at the same time render them +safe against frost. The portion of the crop left in the ground may be +lifted as wanted in the same way as Parsnips, but this should be done +systematically, so that the ground which is cleared may be dug over and +ridged up before winter. Those that remain will be in a piece, and will +give a good crop of spring greens, after which they may be made use of +as manure by putting them at the bottom of a trench.</p> + +<p><b>Some of the foes</b> that war against the Turnip crop are alluded to at +greater length later on. Happily, the gardener has many friends that are +insufficiently known to the farmer, not the least important being the +starlings, song birds, and occasionally (but not often) the sparrows. +Where the cultivation is good and small birds abound, the Turnip crop is +pretty safe, and the general routine of culture sketched above will +certainly promote, if it does not absolutely secure, its safety. The +worst foes of the Turnip in the field are the fly and the caterpillar; +but in the garden, and more especially the old garden, anbury is the +most to be feared. When this happens the cultivator may rest satisfied +that the soil is in fault, and this may be owing to a bad routine of +cropping. Wherever anbury appears, whether on Cabbages or Turnips or any +other cruciferous plant, there should be worked out a complete change in +the order of cropping, taking care not to put any brassicaceous plants +on the plots where the disease has occurred for two or three seasons, +and allowing at least one whole year to pass without growing any of the +cruciferous order upon them. In the meantime, for other crops the land +should be well trenched and limed, and generously tilled. The result +will be profitable crops of other kinds of vegetables and a refreshing +of the soil that will enable it to carry brassicaceous plants again, +with but little risk of the recurrence of anbury. Good cultivation is +the only panacea known against the plagues that assail our crops. This +<a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>does not surely secure them, for the elements are capricious and beyond +our control; but where good cultivation prevails the failures are few, +and even unfavourable seasons do not utterly obliterate the benefits of +past labour.</p> + +<p><b>Swede.</b>—There are several advantages in growing Swedes as one of the +garden crops. They are hardy in constitution and prolong the supply of a +wholesome vegetable. In districts where Turnips are unsatisfactory, +Swedes prove successful, and are appreciated for their delicacy of +flavour when grown from stocks which have been carefully selected for +the purpose. The culture is in all respects the same as for Turnip. The +date of sowing depends on the district. In the north it is safe to sow +at the beginning of May, but in the midlands and southern counties of +England the end of May or beginning of June is early enough.</p> + + +<p><b>VEGETABLE MARROW</b></p> + +<p><b>Cucurbita Pepo ovifera</b></p> + + +<p>The Vegetable Marrow does not, in a general way, obtain the right kind +of attention in gardens. It is very generally grown and is much valued +as a summer vegetable. But too often the aim of the cultivator is to +obtain large Marrows, that at the very best are coarse and troublesome +to the cook and are always wanting in substance and flavour, instead of +smallish Marrows, which are easily dressed, elegant on the table, and +combine with a substantial and somewhat glutinous pulp a most delicious +flavour. Two fears beset the average gardener: he is afraid to grow +small sorts, and he is afraid to cut them when quite young. When he can +overcome these fears he will appreciate the smaller Marrows that have of +late years been secured by patient labour in cross-breeding, for while +they are of the highest quality, they are also early and productive, far +surpassing all the larger Marrows in quickness and usefulness. The +market grower we do not pretend to advise, for he must grow what he can +sell; and if the smaller Marrows are insufficiently appreciated in +gardens, we cannot hope to see them on sale in shops.</p> + +<p>The Vegetable Marrow will grow in any good soil, and although a tender +plant, it is so accommodating that if the seed is sown on a piece of +newly dug clay land in the latter part of May, or early in June, the +plants will thrive and produce a heavy crop the same season. We put this +as an extreme case, but we do not recommend <a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>such a careless mode of +growing this valuable vegetable. The fact is, it pays better to grow it +well than to grow it ill; and in a country where land and labour are +costly, and the summer very uncertain, it is best to take such a thing +in hand scientifically, and provide for it as many favourable conditions +as possible. Three conditions are imperative: a moderate bottom heat +from fermenting material; a kindly, loamy soil, quite mellow, in which +the roots can run freely; and a sufficiency of water, for this is a +thirsty plant. But the excessive use of manure is undesirable, as this +only forces a rank growth of foliage at the expense of the fruit.</p> + +<p><b>Frame culture</b> is of some importance, because early Marrows are highly +valued at good tables. For this business the neat-growing, small-fruited +kinds should be chosen, as they yield a great crop in a small compass. +The best place for an early crop of Marrows is a brick pit, with +hot-water pipes for top heat, and a bed of fermenting materials for +bottom heat. It is no difficult matter to obtain a supply in a house +with Cucumbers, but it is better to grow the Marrows apart, as they +require less heat and less moisture than Cucumbers. In making up the +bed, it is well to employ leaves largely, say to the extent of one-half, +the remainder being stable manure that has been twice turned. Such a bed +will give a mild heat for a great length of time, and the plants can be +put out upon it within three days of its being made up. When grown in a +common frame, the arrangements are much the same as advised for the +frame cultivation of the Cucumber, the chief points of difference being +that Marrows should have less heat and more air. The temperature for +Marrows under cover may range from 55° the minimum, to 80° the maximum; +the safe medium being about 65° when the weather is cold and dull; +running to 80° when strong sunshine prevails, and the plants are growing +freely with plenty of air. As for the general management, a bed nine +inches deep of good fibrous loam is required, with regular supplies of +water of the same temperature as the pits, so that the bed is always +reasonably moist, and every evening a slight syringing over the leaves +and the walls before shutting up. The training out is a very simple +matter. Let the vines run in their own way until they have made shoots +eighteen inches long, then nip out the points. After this there must be +no more stopping, but occasionally the laterals must be suppressed to +prevent crowding. Give air freely at every opportunity, and be careful +not to administer too much water, or the blunder will result in a +deficiency of fruit.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>To grow Marrows in the open air, the best course of procedure is to +remove a portion of the top soil, to form a shallow trench four feet +wide. Into this carry one foot to eighteen inches depth of half-rotten +manure, or a mixture of equal parts of manure and leaves, and cover with +the soil that was taken out. This will produce a very gentle hot-bed +that will last until the natural ground heat is sufficient to keep the +plants in vigorous health. The middle of May is quite early enough to +make up the bed, and in the course of two or three days the plants may +be put out. Cover with hand-lights or small frames, which on the +following day should be tilted at bottom to admit a little air, and if +strong sunshine occurs, a Rhubarb leaf may be laid over to subdue the +glare upon the young plants. We will suppose these plants to have been +raised in a Cucumber frame from seeds sown in April. If plants are not +available, sow seeds in patches of two or three on the bed, and cover +with inverted large flower-pots, and with a piece of tile to stop the +hole. This plan hastens germination. Pots may also be used as protectors +if glass frames are not at command, being taken off during the day and +put on at night, the hole being left open to give a little air. During +bad weather the pots should remain all day over the plants, but as soon +as possible must be again taken off to keep the growth short, green, and +vigorous. The plants should be put singly down the centre of the bed, +three feet apart, and as a matter of course the seeds should be sown at +the same distance, and each clump of two or three should be reduced to +one when the plants are somewhat forward. It is advisable not to be in a +hurry in thinning the plants, for the slugs will probably compel some +modification of arrangements, so that sometimes it will be necessary to +lift a clump, and divide the plants, to fill up gaps where the slugs +have made a clearance. An occasional inspection in the after part of the +day, and again in the early morning, will be the best course to keep +down the slugs, as they may then be caught and disposed of; but a +dusting of soot around each clump will do much to protect the plants +against silent marauders. As for after-management, there is no occasion +whatever for any stopping or training, but now and then a stout peg may +be placed to keep some strong vine in order. The necessity for moisture +must not be overlooked. If the ground becomes dry the plants will +suffer, but with sufficient moisture they will continue growing and +bearing until the frost destroys them. Cut the Marrows when quite young, +for not only are they more useful on the table when small and tender, +but the plants will bear five <a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>times as many as when a few are permitted +to attain their full size. The explanation of the case is very simple. +The production of the young fruits does not in any appreciable degree +exhaust the plants; but when the fruits are allowed to develop, the +plant is too severely taxed, and a succession is pretty well brought to +a stop. The most delicately flavoured Marrows, as a rule, are the +smallest; these when cooked should be served whole, or at most only cut +into halves, and of course there is no occasion to remove the seeds.</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a> +<a name="A_YEARS_WORK_IN_THE_VEGETABLE_GARDEN" id="A_YEARS_WORK_IN_THE_VEGETABLE_GARDEN"> +</a>A YEAR’S WORK IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN</h2> + +<p>The following monthly notes are not intended to supersede the detailed +instructions on the several kinds of Vegetables which appear in the +preceding pages. The present object is to call attention to the work +that must be done, and the work that must be prepared for, as the +changes of the seasons require and the state of the weather may permit; +yet some amount of detail is included. Merely to offer reminders would +be to exclude the great mass of amateurs, and the less experienced of +practical gardeners, from participation in the advantages of these +monthly notes, and to restrict their use to a few practical men who are +masters of every detail of the business of gardening. The routine under +each month is generally in harmony-with that already recommended, but +certain variations of practice are suggested which may prove of service +in some districts and under particular circumstances.</p> + +<p>A work on gardening demands of the reader the exercise of judgment. If +blindly followed, it may prove as often wrong as right; for it is not in +the power of the authors to influence the weather in favour of their +directions, or to insure to those who may follow their guidance a single +one amongst the many conditions requisite to success. Although the times +named for certain operations are the best as an average, peculiarities +of climate and of season will require some modifications, which each one +must discover for himself; and after the seed of any vegetable has been +sown it is not always needful to give subsequent reminders of +successional sowings. These naturally follow in accordance with the +requirements of each particular garden. With such allowances duly made, +these notes will, it <a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>is hoped, prove thoroughly practical, and tend +materially to aid the cultivator in obtaining from the vegetable garden +an abundance of everything in its season, and of a quality of which he +need not be ashamed.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="JANUARY" id="JANUARY"></a><b>JANUARY</b></h3> + +<p>Work in the garden during the opening month of the year is entirely +dependent on the weather, and it is futile to enter on a vain conflict +with Nature. When heavy rains prevail keep off the ground, but +immediately it will bear traffic without poaching be prepared to take +advantage of every favourable hour. Much may be done in January to make +ready for the busy spring, and every moment usefully employed will +relieve the pressure later on. Survey the stock of pea-sticks, haul out +all the rubbish from the yard, and make a ‘smother’ of waste prunings +and heaps of twitch and other stuff for which there is no decided use. +If properly done, the result will be a black ash of the most fertilising +nature, such as a mere fire will not produce. Should the soil be +frost-bound wheel out manure and lay it in heaps ready to be spread and +dug in where seed-beds are to be made. If the weather is open and dry, +trench spare plots and make ready well-manured plots for sowing Peas and +Beans. So far as may be convenient, all preparatory work should be +pushed on with vigour, and every effort must be made to lay up as much +land in the rough as possible; for the more it is frozen through the +greater will be its fertility, and the more beautiful, as well as more +abundant, the crops.</p> + +<p>It is a matter of the most ordinary prudence to be prepared to resist +the shock of a severe frost. When this event occurs, many suffer loss +because they are not prepared for it. Good brick walls and substantial +roofs are needed for the safe keeping of fruits and the more valuable +kinds of roots; but when rough methods are resorted to, such as clamping +and pitting, there should be a large body of stuff employed, for a +prolonged frost will find its way through any thin covering, no matter +what the material may be. As there is not much to do now out of doors, +it is a good time to look over the notes which were made concerning +various crops in the past season, and to attend to the seed list.</p> + +<p>Seed sowing should be practised with exceeding caution; but great things +may be done where there are warm, sheltered, dry <a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a>borders, and suitable +appliances for screening and forwarding early crops. Under these +favourable conditions, we advise the sowing of small breadths of a few +choice subjects towards the end of the month; and, this being done, +every care should be taken to nurse the seedlings through the trying +times that are before them. Such things as tender young Radishes, +Onions, small Salads, Spinach, Cabbage, and Carrots never come in too +early; the trouble often is that they are seen in the market while as +yet they are invisible in the garden. Hedges of Hornbeam, Laurel, or +Holly, to break the force of the wind, are valuable for sheltering early +borders, and walls are great aids to earliness by the warmth they +reflect and the dryness they promote.</p> + +<p>The soil for these early crops should be light and rich, and the +position extra well drained, to prevent the slightest accumulation of +water during heavy rains. Supposing you have such a border, sow upon it, +as early as weather will permit, any of the smaller sorts of Cabbage +Lettuce, Onion, Long Scarlet Radish, Round Spinach, Cabbage, and Carrot. +All these crops may be grown in frames with greater safety, and in many +exposed places the warm border is almost an impossibility. Reed hurdles +and loose dry litter should be always ready when early cropping is in +hand; and old lights, and even old doors, and any and every kind of +screen may be made use of at times to protect the early seed-beds from +snow, severe frost, and the dry blast of an east wind.</p> + +<p><b>Forcing</b> is one of the fine arts in the English garden. It is an art +easily acquired up to a certain point, but beyond that point full of +difficulty. Every step in this business is a conflict with Nature, and +in such a conflict the devices of man must occasionally fail. A golden +rule is to be found in the proverb ‘The more haste the less speed.’ +Whatever the source of heat, it should be moderate at first, and should +be augmented slowly. The earlier the forced articles are required the +more careful should be the preparation for them, and the more moderate +the temperature in the first instance. There must be at command a +constant as well as sufficient temperature: when a forced crop has made +some progress a check will be fatal to success. The beginner should +acquire experience with Rhubarb and Sea Kale, then with Asparagus and +Mushrooms and Dwarf French Beans, and so on to ‘higher heights’ of this +branch of practical gardening.</p> + +<p><b>Artichokes, Globe</b>, are not quite hardy, and must be protected with +litter.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a><b>Asparagus</b> beds to be heavily manured, if not already done, but the +beds need not be dug. Be content to lay the manure on, and the rains +will wash the stimulant down to the roots in due time. In gardens near +the coast seaweed is the best of manure for Asparagus, and the use of +salt can then be dispensed with.</p> + +<p><b>Beans, Broad</b>, may be sown in frames, and towards the end of the month +in open quarters. For early crops select the Longpod varieties. Sow on +ground deeply dug and well manured.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage</b> may be planted out at any time when weather permits, provided +you possess, or can obtain, the plants; and it is of the utmost +importance to secure them from a reliable source, or varieties may be +planted which will in a few weeks send up flower-stems instead of +forming tender hearts. At every season of the year vacant plots should +be kept going with a few breadths of Cabbage. With our variable climate +they may be acceptable, even in the height of summer, if there has been +a hard run upon other vegetables, or some important crop has failed +outright.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflower</b> may be sown on a gentle hot-bed, or in a pan in the +greenhouse, or even in a frame, to make a start for planting out in +March or April.</p> + +<p><b>Cress</b>, to be enjoyed, must be produced from a constant succession of +small but frequent sowings. All the sorts are good, but different in +flavour, and they should be used only while young and tender. Sow at +intervals of a few days in pans, as in the case of Mustard, until it is +possible to cultivate in the open air, and then give a shady position +during summer on a mellow and rather moist soil.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumbers</b> are never ready too soon to meet the demand in early spring. +They are grown in houses more or less adapted to their requirements, and +also in frames over hot-beds. At this time of year, however, frames are +somewhat troublesome to manage, and in trying weather they are a little +hazardous, although later in the season there is no difficulty whatever +with them. For the present, therefore, we shall confine our remarks to +house culture. Almost any greenhouse may be made to answer, but the work +can be carried on most successfully and with the greatest economy in +houses which are expressly constructed for Cucumbers. For winter work a +lean-to, facing south, possesses special advantages. But for general +utility, if we had to erect a building on a well-drained soil, it should +be dwarf, sunk three feet in the ground, with brick walls up to the +eaves, and lighted only from the roof. Such a structure is less +influenced by atmospheric changes than a building wholly above ground. +The <a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>size, of course, is optional; and quite a small house will supply +an ordinary family with Cucumbers. But a small house is not economical +either in fuel or in labour. A building thirty feet long by twelve feet +wide, six feet high at the sides, and eight and a half feet high at the +ridge, will not only grow Cucumbers and Melons, but will also be of +immense service for many other plants. A division across the middle by a +wall rising four feet, surmounted with a glass screen fitted to the +roof, and finished with a door partially of glass, will greatly augment +its usefulness. There should be an alley down the centre four or five +feet wide, bounded by walls reaching four feet above the floor. These +walls should be nine inches thick for two feet six inches of their +height, but for the upper parts the brickwork need only be four and a +half inches thick. This arrangement will provide a ledge on the inner +side of each wall, and the main walls should also have ledges +corresponding in height, on which to lay slates to carry the soil. To +insure drainage, allow a space of about an inch between the slates, and +place tiles or an inverted turf over every opening to prevent the soil +being washed away. The hot-water pipes will be in chambers immediately +beneath the plants. Openings in the alley walls, fitted with sliding +doors, will admit the heat direct into the house whenever it may be +desirable. Ventilation should be provided for under the ridge at each +end, as well as in the roof. In such a house it is easy to grow +Cucumbers all the year round, except, perhaps, in the dead of winter, +when the short, dark days render the task difficult, no matter how +perfect the appliances at command. The division in the centre will be +found valuable at all times, and especially when one set of plants is +failing; for another set can be brought into bearing exactly when +wanted. But whatever the structure may be, the mode of culture remains +substantially the same in any case. Now, as to soil, a compost made of +mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal parts will be effective and +sweet. In the absence of leaf-mould, use two parts of loam and one of +thoroughly decayed manure with a few pieces of charcoal added. Sweetness +is not absolutely necessary for success, but nevertheless we like to +have it, so that a visit to the Cucumber-house may be a source of +pleasure. This it cannot be if rank manure has been used. Raise the seed +singly in small 60-pots, and sow enough, for however good the seed may +be a proportion will almost certainly fail from some cause at this +critical period. Give the plants one shift into the 48-size, to keep +them going until they are ready for putting into the beds. Cucumbers +grow with great rapidity, and should never know a check, least of all +<a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a>by starvation. Upon the slates make as many heaps of soil as are +required, and in the centre of each heap put one plant. As the roots +extend, add more soil until the heaps meet and finally become level with +the top of the brickwork. This treatment will supply food as the roots +develop, and help to maintain the plants in bearing for a long period. +Stout wires running parallel with the length of the house, a foot below +the glass, will carry the vines. Temperature should never fall below 60° +at night; but as the season advances, if the thermometer registers 90° +on sunny days, no harm will be done, provided the roots are not dry, and +the air be kept properly moist by plying the syringe. On dull days one +good sprinkling over the foliage will suffice, and it should be done in +the morning. In warm sunny weather, however, two or three syringings +will be beneficial; but the work must not be done so late as to risk the +foliage being wet when night comes on. There will be occasions when it +may be advisable to avoid touching the leaves with water, if there is no +probability of their drying before nightfall. In such a case the +moisture can be kept up by freely sprinkling the floor and walls. +Cucumbers cannot thrive if they are dry at the roots, but although there +should be no stint of water, it must be given with judgment; and it is +of the utmost importance that the drainage should be effectual, for +stagnant water is even more injurious than a dry soil. A few sticks +placed in various parts of the bed, reaching down to the slates, will +serve as indicators. Draw and inspect them occasionally, and a pretty +correct idea of the condition of the soil will be obtained. The water +should be of the same temperature as the house; if applied cold the +plants will sustain a serious check. In the event of the bed falling +somewhat below the proper temperature, the water may with advantage be a +few degrees higher than usual.</p> + +<p><b>Horse-radish</b> should be planted early, to insure fine roots for next +Christmas beef.</p> + +<p><b>Leek</b>.—Those who wish to produce stems of superb size and beautiful +texture must sow in heat during this month or early in February, for a +longer period of growth is requisite than for ordinary crops. When +sufficient root growth has been made, transplant into larger pots, and +in due course transfer these to a frame where the plants may be +gradually hardened off for putting out into specially prepared trenches +in April.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuces</b> will soon be in demand, and the early hearts will be +particularly precious. Sow a few sorts in pans, in frames, or on gentle +hot-beds, to be ready for planting out by-and-by.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a><b>Melon</b>.—Although the Melon is a fruit, its culture naturally forms +part of the routine of a vegetable garden. Up to a certain point it may +be grown in the same house with Cucumbers; but after that point is +reached, the two plants need widely different treatment. Cucumbers are +cut when young, and must be grown in a warm and humid atmosphere from +beginning to end. Melons need warmth, and at the commencement moisture +also; but the fruit has to be ripened, and after it is set dry treatment +becomes essential for the production of a rich flavour with plenty of +aroma. In large gardens, three crops of Melons are usually grown in the +same house in one season. A light soil is advisable at the beginning of +the year, but later in the season a heavier compost may be employed. For +the first sowing select an early variety, and at the beginning of this +month put the seed in separate pots. Re-pot the plants once, and they +will be ready for the beds by the first week of February. Melons from +this sowing should be fit for table in May, which is quite as early as +they can be produced with any sugar in them. Until the fruits begin to +swell the treatment advised for Cucumbers will suit Melons also. +Afterwards the watering will need careful management. It would be an +advantage if the fruit could be finished off without a drop of water +from the time they are about two inches in diameter, but the hot pipes +render it almost impossible. Still, water must not be given more +frequently than is actually necessary to keep the plants going, and when +it is applied let there be a thorough soaking. At the same time +ventilation will demand constant attention, and, provided the +temperature can be maintained, it is scarcely possible to give air too +freely. In the early stage of growth, and in mild weather, if the +thermometer registers 65° at 9 P.M., the cultivator may sleep peacefully +so far as Melons are concerned. As the season advances, the temperature +may be increased to 70° by night, and 75° to 90° by day. With reference +to stopping, it may be sufficient to say that it is a waste of energy to +allow the plant to make a large quantity of vine, which has afterwards +to be cut away. By judiciously pinching out the shoots, the plant can be +equally spread over the allotted space. The flowers must be fertilised, +and in this respect the treatment differs from that advised for +Cucumbers. The practice has the advantage of allowing the fruits to be +evenly distributed over the vine, and from four to six, according to the +size of the variety, will be enough for each plant to ripen.</p> + +<p><b>Mustard</b>.—Those who care for salads need a supply of Mustard almost +all through the year, and to secure a succession it will be <a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>necessary +to sow at regular intervals. It is a good plan to keep a few boxes in +use for the purpose in a plant-house or pit, sowing one or two at a time +as required, and taking care not to sow wastefully. The seed may be sown +out of doors all the summer, on a shady border, but nothing surpasses +boxes or large pans under glass. Mustard and Cress should never be sown +in the same row or in the same pan, but separately, because they do not +grow at the same pace, and the former may be fit for use a week or so +before the latter. Do not be content to use Rape, or any other +substitute, but sow the genuine article.</p> + +<p><b>Onion.</b>—The modern practice of sowing Onion seed in boxes under glass +is to be commended for several reasons. It insures a long season of +growth and results in handsome bulbs far above the average in size. +Transplanting affords the opportunity of selecting the strongest +seedlings and of placing them at exact intervals in the bed. As a +crowning advantage this system, to a large extent, prevents attack from +the Onion Fly. Sow in boxes filled with rich soil and see that the +plants have sufficient water, although very little is necessary until +after transfer to other boxes.</p> + +<p><b>Peas</b> of the round-seeded class may be sown in open quarters, and the +driest and warmest places must be selected. It is next to impossible to +grow them too well; for if the haulm runs up higher than usual, the +produce will be the finer. Remember, too, that if deep trenches are dug +and a lot of manure is put in for Peas, the ground is so far prepared +for Broccoli, Celery, and late Cauliflowers to follow; for the +early-sown Peas will be off the ground in time for another paying crop. +As everybody wants an early dish of Peas, sow one of the forward +marrowfat varieties in pots, or on strips of turf laid grass-side +downwards in boxes having movable bottoms that can be withdrawn by a +dexterous hand when the transfer is made from frames to the open ground. +Troughs for Peas can be made in very little time out of waste wood that +may be found in the yard; or a few lengths of old zinc spouting blocked +up at the ends will answer admirably. In the absence of such aids, +flower-pots may be used. The seed should have the shelter of a frame or +pit, but should have the least possible stimulus from artificial heat, +except in cases where there is all the skill at command to promote very +early production.</p> + +<p><b>Potatoes</b> are prized when they come in early, and may be forwarded on +beds of leaves and exhausted hot-beds by covering with light rich soil, +and employing old frames for protection, with litter <a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>handy in case of +frost. For this early work select the earliest Kidneys and Rounds; the +main-cropping varieties are not quick enough.</p> + +<p><b>Radishes</b> are more or less in demand for the greater part of the year. +The early crops are, however, especially valued, and there need not be +the least difficulty in producing a supply. A half-spent hot-bed, or, +indeed, any position that affords shelter and warmth, will answer +admirably for raising this crop until it may be trusted to a suitable +position in the open.</p> + +<p><b>Sea Kale</b> may be covered with pots or a good depth of litter, or a +combination of pots and litter. This should be done early, as at the +first move of vegetation this delicious vegetable will come into use, +and will generally be of finer quality than if forced. It happens, +however, to be the easiest of all things to force, and so, wherever it +is cared for, a plentiful supply may be maintained from Christmas (or +earlier) until May. As the leaf-stems must be thoroughly blanched, +covering is needful in all cases.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach</b> may be sown in open quarters. If the frost destroys the plant, +sow again. Some risk must be encountered for an early dish of this +highly-prized vegetable. Keep the autumn-sown Spinach clear of weeds, +and in gathering (if it happens to be fit to supply a gathering), pick +off the leaves separately with a little care.</p> + +<p><b>Strawberries</b>.—Seed of the Alpine varieties sown in pans this month, +for transfer later to the open ground, usually produce fine fruits in +September.</p> + +<p><b>Tomato.</b>—Of the immense value of the Tomato as an article of diet we +need say nothing, but we may confidently affirm that its merits for +decorative purposes have not as yet been fully recognised. Long racemes +of brilliant glossy fruit are sometimes employed with striking effect in +épergnes, and there is a natural fitness in using them for decorating +the dinner table. All the Tomatoes can be grown and ripened under glass +in almost any fashion which may suit the cultivator’s convenience. Pits, +frames, vineries, and Peach-houses will bring the fruit to perfection, +either in pots or planted out. Magnificent crops are also grown in the +manner usual with Cucumbers, but in a lower temperature; and those who +have an early Cucumber house at liberty during the summer may turn it to +good account for Tomatoes. The soil should be prepared and laid up in +the autumn. It must not be too rich, or there will be much foliage and +little fruit, and the flowering will also be late. A compost <a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a>of +leaf-mould and loam with an addition of sand suits Tomatoes admirably; +but raw manure should be regarded as poison. Sow thinly in well-drained +pots firmly filled with soil, and place in a temperature of 60° or 65°. +When large enough to handle, transfer the seedlings to small pots, and, +if necessary, shade them for a few days. Keep them near the glass until +the roots are established, and allow them to suffer no check from first +to last.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="FEBRUARY" id="FEBRUARY"></a><b>FEBRUARY</b></h3> + +<p>The work of this month is to be carried on as weather permits, but with +greater activity and more confidence, for the sun is fast gaining power. +Earnest digging, liberal manuring, and scrupulous cleansing are the +tasks that stand forward as of pre-eminent importance. Many weeds, +groundsel especially, will now be coming into flower, and if allowed to +seed will make enormous work later on. It is well, however, to +remember—what few people do remember, because the fact has not been +pressed upon their attention—that weeds of all kinds, so long as they +are not in flower, are really useful as manure when dug into the soil. +Therefore a weedy patch is not of necessity going to ruin; but if the +weeds are not stopped in time, they spread by their seeds and mar the +order of the garden. Dig them in, and their decay will nourish the next +crop. If early sowing is practised, and the earliest possible produce of +everything is aimed at, there must be always at hand the means of +protection, such as litter, spruce branches, mats, or other material, as +circumstances require. The vigilant gardener is not surprised by the +weather, but is always armed for an emergency. Read the notes for +January before proceeding further; and in respect of what remains +undone, spare the necessity of reminders here.</p> + +<p><b>Frame Ground</b> should be kept scrupulously clean and orderly. Many +things will require watering now, but water must not be carelessly +given, because damp is hurtful during frosty weather. Take care that the +plants are not crowding and starving, or they will come to no good.</p> + +<p><b>Artichoke, Globe.</b>—Plants from a sowing made now in a frame, and +transferred to the open at the end of April, will generally produce +heads in the following August, September, and October.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a><b>Artichokes, Jerusalem,</b> may be planted this month where it has been +possible to prepare the ground. Use whole sets if convenient, or plant +cut sets with about three eyes in each.</p> + +<p><b>Beans, Broad</b>, may be sown both for early and main crops now, and with +but little risk of damage by spring frosts. The driest and warmest +situation should be selected for the early sorts, and the strongest land +for the late ones. If sowings were made in frames last month, take care +to harden the plants cautiously preparatory to planting out; if caught +by a sharp frost, every one will perish.</p> + +<p><b>Beans, French.</b>—To precede the outdoor crops make a sowing of Dwarf +French Beans in frames, and of the Climbing French varieties in +orchard-houses or other available spaces under glass.</p> + +<p><b>Beet.</b>—Sowings of the Globe variety may be made this month and in +March, on a gentle hot-bed under frames, to provide roots in advance of +the outdoor supplies.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli.</b>—Sow on a warm sheltered border, and also in a frame. With +such an important crop at this time of year, there should be at least +two strings to the bow.</p> + +<p><b>Brussels Sprouts.</b>—For an early gathering of large buttons a sowing +should be made now on the warm border. This vegetable requires a long +period of growth to attain perfection, and those who sow late rarely +obtain such fine buttons as the plant is capable of producing.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage</b> may be sown in pans or boxes placed in a frame, to be planted +out in due time for summer use, and from a quick-growing variety tender +hearts may be cut almost as early as from autumn-sown plants. Where +plantations stand rather thick, draw as fast as possible from amongst +them every alternate plant, to allow the remainder ample space for +hearting. It is well to remember that the small loose hearts of immature +Cabbages make a more delicate dish than the most complete white hearts; +but when grown for market, or to meet a large demand, there must be bulk +and substance. Cabbages are in constant request to mend, and to make +stolen crops, or take the place of anything that fails past recovery.</p> + +<p><b>Capsicum and Chili</b> should be sown now or in March on a hot-bed, and be +potted on until the plants are fit to be placed in the greenhouse or +conservatory.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflower.</b>—Another sowing should be made under glass to supply a +succession of plants.</p> + +<p><b>Corn Salad</b> thrives well in any soil not particularly heavy, the best +being a sandy fertile loam. Sow in drills six inches apart; keep <a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>the +hoe well at work, and when ready thin the plants out to six inches +apart. They should be eaten young.</p> + +<p><b>Couve Tronchuda</b> produces two distinct dishes. The top forms a Cabbage +of the most delicate flavour and colour, and furnishes the best possible +dish of greens in autumn; and the midribs of the largest leaves may be +cooked in the manner of Sea Kale, and will be found excellent. This +delicious vegetable may be secured for use in summer and autumn and far +on into the winter by successive sowings in February, March, and April; +the first sowings to be assisted with heat. The plants should be put out +as early as possible on rich soil at from two to three feet each way; +they must have plenty of water in a dry summer. The season of Portugal +Cabbage may be prolonged by taking up what plants are left before severe +frost occurs, and heeling them into a bank of dry earth in a shed or +outhouse.</p> + +<p><b>Egg Plant.</b>—The fruits of Egg Plants play a more important part in the +cookery of the French and Italians than with us, and they make a +delicious dish when properly cooked. Seed may be raised in heat, but +when summer comes the plants thrive in rich soil at the foot of a wall +facing south. The white and purple varieties are grown for ornament as +well as for cooking. Sow now or in March in heat, and in June the plants +should be ready for transferring to rich soil in a sheltered spot, +allowing each one a space of two feet.</p> + +<p><b>Garlic</b> to be planted in rows, nine inches apart each way, and two +inches deep in rich mellow soil.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce.</b>—Sow again on a warm border and in frames. Plant out in mild +weather any that are fit from frames and hot-beds, first making sure +that they are well hardened.</p> + +<p><b>Mustard.</b>—It is easy work with a frame to have Mustard at any time; +and many small sowings are better than large ones, which only result in +waste to-day and want to-morrow.</p> + +<p><b>Onion</b>.—There is still time for sowing seed in boxes preparatory to +planting out in April.</p> + +<p><b>Parsley</b> to be sown in the latter part of the month.</p> + +<p><b>Parsnip</b> should be sown as early as possible, on the deepest and best +ground as regards texture; but it need not be on the richest, for if the +roots can push down they will get what they want from the subsoil, and +therefore it is of great importance to put this crop on ground that was +dug twice in the autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Pea</b>.—Sow early sorts in quantity now, in accordance with probable +requirements; but there will be a loss rather than a gain of time if +they are sown on pasty ground or during bad weather. There <a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>are now many +excellent sorts of moderate height, and these give the least trouble in +their management; but a few of the taller varieties still remain in +favour, because of their fine quality. However, there is time yet for +sowing mid-season and late Peas; but the sooner some of the +first-earlies are in, the better. It is customary to sow many rows in a +plot rather close together, but it is better practice to put them so far +apart as to admit of two or three rows of early Potatoes between every +two rows of Peas. This insures abundance of light and air to the Peas, +and the latter are of great value to protect the Potatoes from May +frosts that often kill down the rising shaws. A warm, dry, fertile soil +is needed for first-early Peas. Those already up and in a bad plight +should be dug in and the rows sown again. It is worthy of note that if +Peas are thoroughly pinched and starved by hard weather, they rarely +prove a success; therefore, if they go wrong, sacrifice them without +hesitation and begin again. Where early rows are doing well put sticks +to them at once, as the sticks afford considerable protection, and the +effect may be augmented by strewing on the windward side small hedge +clippings and other light dry stuff.</p> + +<p><b>Radishes,</b> to be mild, tender, and handsome, must be grown rapidly. If +checked, they become hot, tough, and worthless. Much may be done to +forward a crop by means of dry litter and mats to protect the plants +from frost, removing the protection in favourable weather to give the +crop the fullest possible benefit of air and sunshine. Old worn-out +frames that will scarcely hold together will pay their first cost over +again, with the aid of a little skill, in growing Radishes.</p> + +<p><b>Rhubarb</b> should be taken up and divided, and planted again in rich +moist soil, every separate piece to have only one good eye. Do not +gather this season from the new plantation, but always have a piece one +year old to supply the kitchen. This method will insure sticks to be +proud of, not only for size, but for colour and flavour.</p> + +<p><b>Savoys</b> are valued by some when small, and by others they are prized +for size as much as for their excellent flavour when well frosted. Large +Savoys must have a long season of growth; therefore sow as soon as +possible, either in a frame, or on a rich, mellow seedbed, and be ready +to prick them out before they become crowded.</p> + +<p><b>Sea Kale.</b>—The plantations reserved for latest supplies should not be +covered until they begin to push naturally, and then the coverings must +be put on to blanch the growth effectually. Open-ground Sea Kale may be +uncovered as soon as cut, but a little litter <a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>should be left to give +protection and help the young shoots to rise, because after blanching +the cutting is a severe tax on the plant, and it has to begin life +afresh and prepare for the work of the next season.</p> + +<p><b>Shallot.</b>—When well grown the clumps are bigger than a man’s fist, and +each separate bulb thicker than a walnut. To grow them well they must +have time; so plant early, on rich ground, in rows one foot apart and +the bulbs about nine inches asunder. Press them into the earth deep +enough to hold them firmly, but they are not to be quite buried.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach.</b>—Sow the Round-seeded plentifully; if overdone the extra crop +can be dug in as manure, and in that way will pay.</p> + +<p><b>Tomato.</b>—In many gardens the first sowing is made this month, and when +treated fairly, the plants come into bearing in about four months. Use +good porous soil for the seed-pans. Sow very thinly in a temperature of +60° or 65°, and get the plants into thumb pots while they are quite +small.</p> + +<p><b>Turnip</b> may be sown on warm borders, but it is too early for large +breadths in open quarters.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="MARCH" id="MARCH"></a><b>MARCH</b></h3> + +<p>This is the great season for garden work, and the gardener must be up +with the lark and go to bed with the robin, which is the latest of birds +to bid farewell to a sunny day. The first care should be to make good +all arrears, especially in the preparation of seed-beds, and the +cleaning of plots that are in any way disorderly. Where early-sown crops +have evidently failed, sow again without complaining; seed costs but +little, and a good plant is the earnest of a good crop; a bad plant will +probably never pay the rent of the ground it occupies. Keen east winds +may cause immense damage, but a little protection provided in time will +do wonders to ward off their effects, and the sunny days that are now so +welcome, and that we are pretty sure to have, will afford opportunity +for giving air to plants in frames, for clearing away litter, and for +the regular routine work of the season.</p> + +<p>Seed of almost every vegetable grown in the garden may be sown in the +month of March. Make successional sowings of whatever it may be +advisable to put under cover or on heat, and then proceed with +open-ground sowings as weather and circumstances permit. The weather is +the master of outdoor work, and it is sheer waste of <a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a>time to fight +against it. It is better to wait to the end of the month, or even far +into the next, before sowing a seed than to sow on pasty ground. But it +matters not how dry the ground may be, and if the wind blows keenly, +that should only be an inducement to brisk action; for seeds well sown +have everything in their favour if they are not too early for the +district. Very important indeed it is now to secure a <b>Hot-bed.</b>—To +make one is easy enough, but it is of no use to half make it; for +half-acres in this department do not bear good corn. In the first place, +secure a great bulk of manure, and if it is long and green, turn it two +or three times, taking care that it is always moderately moist, but +never actually wet. If the stuff is too dry, sprinkle with water at +every turn, and let it steam away to take the rankest fire out of it. +Then make it up where required in a square heap, allowing it to settle +in its own way without treading or beating. Put on a foot-depth of +light, rich soil after the frames are in their places, and wait a few +days to sow the seed in case of a great heat rising. When the +temperature is steady and comfortable, sow seeds in pots and pans, as +needful, the quantity required of each separate crop, and stand them on +bricks above the bed, and the heat will then be none too much for them. +In the course of a few days finish the work by putting in a body of +earth. Do not attempt to hurry the growth of anything overmuch, for +undue haste will produce a weak plant; rather give air and light in +plenty, but with care to prevent injurious check, and the plants will be +short and healthy from the first.</p> + +<p><b>Artichokes, Globe</b>, to be cleared of protecting material as soon as +weather permits, and fresh plantations made ready for suckers to be put +in next month. A new plantation may also be formed by sowing seeds; in +fact, a sowing ought to be made every year. Where early produce is +required, the plants should be protected during winter to supply suckers +in the spring; but, if late supplies suffice, the sowing of a few rows +every year will reduce the labour, and render the production of Globe +Artichokes a very simple affair.</p> + +<p><b>Artichokes, Jerusalem</b>, may be planted now advantageously. Strong, deep +soil produces the best crop, and large roots are always preferred by the +cook, because of the inevitable waste in preparing this vegetable. The +Jerusalem Artichoke is certainly not properly appreciated, and one +reason is that it is often carelessly grown in any out-of-the-way +starving corner, whereas it needs a sunny, open spot, and a strong, deep +soil, and plenty of room. To hide an ugly fence during summer no more +useful plant is grown.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a><b>Asparagus</b>.—Little attention is required as yet, except to remove +every weed as soon as it can be seen. If the beds are dry, and there are +no indications of coming rain, one good soaking of water or weak sewage +will be very beneficial. Mark out and make beds for sowing seed next +month.</p> + +<p><b>Bean, Broad</b>.—Plant out those raised in frames, and earth up those +from early sowings that are forward enough. Sow for main crops and late +supplies. In late districts a few of the earliest sorts may be sown to +come in before the Windsor section.</p> + +<p><b>Beet</b>.—Sow a little seed for an early supply, in well-dug mellow soil. +The crop will need protection in the event of frost.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli</b> for autumn use to be sown early; and at the end of the month +sow again in quantity for winter supplies. In mild weather, put out the +plants from the earlier sowings made in frames as soon as they are fit +and well hardened.</p> + +<p><b>Brussels Sprouts</b>.—Look after the bed sown last month, and sow again +for the main crop. The best possible seed-bed is wanted and a rich +well-tilled soil for the plants when put out.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage</b> of two or three kinds should be sown now to supply plants for +filling up as crops are taken off, and also to patch and mend where +failures happen. Where the owner of a garden has opportunities of +helping his poorer neighbours, he may confer a real benefit by supplying +them with Cabbage and Winter Greens for planting in their garden plots. +Cottagers too often begin with bad stocks—very much to their +discouragement in gardening, and to the loss of wholesome food the +garden should supply. The rankest manure may be employed in preparing +ground for Cabbage, reserving the well-rotted manure for seed-beds and +other purposes for which it will be required. A sowing of Red Cabbage +now will insure heads for pickling in autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Carrot</b>.—Sow one of the quick-growing varieties at the first +opportunity, but wait for signs of settled spring weather to sow the +main crops of large sorts.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflower</b>.—Plant out as weather permits from hand-lights and +frames, choosing the best ground for this vegetable. In preparing a plot +for Cauliflower, use plenty of manure; and if it is only half-rotten, it +will be better than if it were old and mellow.</p> + +<p><b>Celeriac</b>.—So far as seed sowing is concerned, Celeriac may be treated +in the same way as Celery.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b>.—For the earliest supply, sow on the first of the month a +pinch of seed of one or more of the smaller red or white sorts on <a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a>a +mild hot-bed, or in an early vinery. As soon as the plants are large +enough to handle, prick them out three inches apart on a nice mellow bed +of rich soil on a half-spent hot-bed; give them plenty of light, with +free ventilation as weather allows, and constant supplies of water. +About the middle of the month sow again and prick out as before; but if +no hot-bed is available, a well-prepared bed in a frame in a sunny +position will answer; or, if the season is somewhat advanced, a bed of +rotten manure, two or three inches deep, on a piece of hard ground, will +suffice, if the plants are kept regularly watered. From this bed they +will lift with nice roots for planting out, scarcely feeling the removal +at all.</p> + +<p><b>Chives</b> to be divided and re-planted on a spot which has not previously +been occupied with the crop.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumber</b>.—The vines should now be in a flourishing condition, but it +is necessary to look forward to the day when they will fall into the +sere and yellow leaf. More seed sown singly in pots will provide a +succession of plants. Re-pot them once or twice if desirable, and when +large enough turn them out between the first lot. As the old plants +fail, the new-comers will supply their places. Setting the bloom, as it +is called, is not only useless, but is a mischievous procedure. It +results in the enlargement of one end of the fruit, and ruins its +appearance. If seed be the object, of course the process is justifiable; +but for the table a ‘bottle nose’ cannot be regarded as an ornament. +Besides, the ripening of seed in a single fruit will materially diminish +the usefulness of the plant, and perhaps entirely end its career. +Stopping the vine is a necessity, but it should not be done too soon. In +the early stage of growth, it reduces the vigour of the plant and +retards its fruiting; but when the fruit is visible, stopping aids its +development and at the same time tends to regulate and equalise the +growth.</p> + +<p>Frame culture of Cucumbers is usually begun in March. There are men who +can produce fruit from hot-beds all the year round, but it is a +difficult task, and as a rule ought not to be expected. At this time of +year, however, success is fairly within reach of ordinary skill. In +quite the early part of the month put seed singly into pots which must +be kept in a warm, moist place. The plants will then be ready for frames +at the end of the month. The most important business is the preparation +of the bed, and in this, as in all else, there is a right and a wrong +way of doing the work. Accurately set out the space on which it is to be +made. If there is plenty of manure, make the bed large enough to project +eighteen inches beyond the lights all round.<a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a> But if manure is scarce, +cut the margin closer, and trust to a hot lining when the heat begins to +flag. Commence with the outside of the bed, employing the long stuff in +its construction; and keep this part of the work a little in advance of +the centre until the full height is reached. A bed made in this way will +not fall to pieces, and the heat will be durable in proportion to its +size and thickness. Where fallen leaves are abundant, they should be +used for the middle of the bed, and they will give a more lasting heat +than short manure. When the bed has settled down to a steady +temperature, add six or nine inches of mellow loam over the entire +surface, upon which place the frames. To insure drainage, it is an +excellent plan to lay common flake hurdles on the top of the heap before +adding the soil. These do not in the least interfere with the free +running of the roots. It is usual to have two plants under each light, +but where the management is good, one is quite enough. The subsequent +work consists of shading and sheltering, to prevent any serious check +from trying weather, and in giving just water enough and no more. The +fermenting material should sustain the temperature of the frame, even +during frosty nights, and mats will screen off strong sunshine as well +as cold winds. The plants will need stopping earlier than those grown in +houses, and as there are no hot-pipes to dissipate the moisture, rather +less water will be necessary, both in the soil and from the syringe. But +the water employed should always be of the same temperature as the bed. +This is easily managed by keeping a full can standing with the plants. +In large frames, where there is a good body of manure and the loam is +mellow and turfy, pieces of Mushroom spawn can be inserted all over the +bed. The Mushrooms may appear while the bed is in full bearing; but if +they do not they will come when the plants are cleared out, and pay well +to keep the lights in use another month or so.</p> + +<p><b>Garlic</b> may still be planted, but no time is to be lost.</p> + +<p><b>Herbs</b> of many kinds may be sown or divided, and it will be necessary +to look over the Herb quarter and see how things stand for the supplies +that will be required. A little later, excess of work may prevent due +attention to this department.</p> + +<p><b>Horse-radish</b> to be planted, if not done already.</p> + +<p><b>Kohl Rabi</b>, or <b>Knol Kohl</b>, to be sown in small quantity at the end of +the month, and onwards to August, as required. If cooked while young, +the bulbs are an excellent substitute for Turnips in a hot, dry season.</p> + +<p><b>Leek</b>.—Sow the main crop in very rich, well-prepared soil, and <a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>rather +thickly, as the seedlings will have to be planted out. With a little +management this sowing will yield a succession of Leeks.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce</b>.—Plant out and sow again in quantity. All the kinds may be +sown now, but make sure of enough of the Cos and smaller Cabbage +varieties. In hot, dry soils, where Lettuces usually run to seed early, +try some of the red-leaved kinds, for though less delicate than the +green and white, they will be useful in the event of a scorching summer. +Lettuces require a deep free soil with plenty of manure.</p> + +<p><b>Melon</b>.—Raise a few seeds singly in pots, in readiness for putting +under frames on hot-beds next month. Re-pot the plants, and repeat the +process if the beds are not ready, for Melons must not be starved, +especially in the early stage of growth. Some growers make up the beds +in March, and sow upon them when the heat becomes steady, but the +practice is somewhat precarious. In a cold, late spring the heat may not +last a sufficient time to carry the plants safely into warm weather. +Hence it is more reliable to raise them now in a warm house, and make +the bed at the beginning of April.</p> + +<p><b>Onion</b>.—The plants already raised in boxes to be removed to cold +frames. If necessary, they should be pricked off into other boxes in +order to avoid overcrowding. Keep the frames close at first, but give +air with increasing freedom as the time approaches for transfer to the +open ground. Sow the main crop in drills nine inches apart, and tread or +beat the ground firm. This crop requires a rich soil in a thoroughly +clean and mellow condition, and it makes a capital finish to the +seed-bed to give it a good coat of charred rubbish or smother ash before +sowing the seed.</p> + +<p><b>Parsnip</b>.—Sow main crop in shallow drills eighteen inches apart in +good soil deeply dug. The seed should be lightly covered, and new seed +is indispensable.</p> + +<p><b>Pea</b>.—Sow the finest sorts of the Marrowfat class. Take care to put +them on the best seed-bed that can be made, and allow sufficient room +between the taller sorts for a few rows of Cabbage, Broccoli, or +Potatoes. A crowded quarter of Peas is never satisfactory; the rows +smother each other, and the shaded parts of the haulm produce next to +nothing.</p> + +<p><b>Potato</b>.—A small quantity for early use should be planted at the +opening of the month when the ground is dry and the weather soft. If +planted when frost or cold winds prevail, sets may become somewhat +shrivelled before they are covered, and every care should be taken to +prevent such a check to the initial vigour of the plant.<a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a> The +first-early sorts will necessarily have the chief attention now, and +warm sheltered spots should be selected for them. Any fairly good soil +will produce a passable crop of Potatoes; but to secure a first-class +sample of any early sort, the ground should be made up with the aid of +turfy soil and charrings of hedge clippings and other light, warm, +nourishing material. Strong manures are not to be desired, but a mellow, +kindly, fertile soil is really necessary, and it will always pay well to +take extra pains in its preparation, because all the light rubbish that +accumulates in yards and outhouses can be turned to account with only a +moderate amount of labour, and the result of careful appropriation of +such rubbish will be thoroughly satisfactory. Burn all the chips and +sticks and other stubborn stuff, and lay the mixture in the trenches +when planting, so that the roots may find it at their first start. As +the Potato disease does not usually appear until late in summer, early +planting is a safe precaution, for it insures early ripening of the +crop. The planting of main crops may commence towards the end of March +and be completed during April, according to the locality and the +condition of the soil.</p> + +<p><b>Radish</b>.—From March to September make successive sowings in the +coolest place that can be found for them.</p> + +<p><b>Scorzonera</b> to be treated much the same as Salsify. See note on the +latter under April.</p> + +<p><b>Sea Kale</b> to be sown in well-prepared beds; or plantations may be made +of the smaller roots of the thickness of a lead pencil, and about four +inches in length. Plant them top end uppermost, and deep enough to be +just covered.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach</b>.—Sow in plenty. The Perpetual or Spinach Beet should not be +forgotten. This is one of the most useful vegetables known, as it +endures heat and cold with impunity, and when common Spinach is running +to seed the Perpetual variety remains green and succulent, and fit to +supply the table all the summer long.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach, New Zealand</b>, is another excellent vegetable in high summer +when the Round-seeded variety is worthless. The plant is rather tender, +and for an early supply the seed must be sown in moderate heat, either +in this month or in April. When large enough, get the seedlings into +small pots, and gradually harden them before planting in the open about +the end of May.</p> + +<p><b>Strawberries</b>.—Spring is undoubtedly preferable to autumn for +planting, and results in a finer crop of fruit in the following year. +Just as growth is commencing is the most favourable time, and this, of +course, depends on the character of the season. Alpine<a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a> Strawberries may +be sown outdoors this month or in September for fruiting in the +succeeding year.</p> + +<p><b>Tomato.</b>—In ordinary seasons and in the southern counties there is no +difficulty in producing handsome Tomatoes in the open border; but to +ripen the fruit with certainty it is imperative that an early variety be +chosen. With the rise of latitude, however, the crop becomes +increasingly precarious, until in the North it is impossible to finish +Tomatoes without the aid of glass. For plants which are to ripen fruit +in the open, a sowing should be made early in the month, in the manner +advised under January. Plants which are ready should be transferred to +small thumb pots. Put them in so that the first leaves touch the rim of +the pot, and place them in a close frame or warm part of the greenhouse +for a few days until the roots take hold. To save them from becoming +leggy, give each plant ample space, and avoid a forcing temperature. A +shelf in a greenhouse is a good position, and plants in a single row +upon it will grow stout and short-jointed. Thrips and aphis are +extremely partial to Tomatoes. Frequent sprinklings in bright weather +will help to keep down the former, and will at the same time benefit the +plants. Both pests can be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco, and when +the remedy is to be applied water should be withheld on that day. A +moderate amount of smoke in the evening and another application in the +morning will be more destructive to the vermin, and less injurious to +the plants, than one strong dose. The usual syringing must follow. +Plants for the open ground must not be starved while in pots; they will +need potting on until the 4-1/2-inch or 6-inch size is reached, and it +is important that they should never be dry at the roots. Shading will +only be necessary during fierce sunshine; in early morning and late in +the afternoon they will be better without it.</p> + +<p><b>Water Cress.</b>—It is quite a mistake to suppose that a running stream +is requisite for growing this plant, and it is equally a mistake to +suppose that the proper flavour can be secured without the constant use +of water. Sow in a trench, water regularly and copiously, and mild and +tender Water Cress will reward the labour.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Greens</b> of all kinds to be sown in plenty and in considerable +variety; for in the event of a severe winter some kinds will prove +hardier than others.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a> +<a name="APRIL" id="APRIL"></a><b>APRIL</b></h3> + +<p>Vegetation is now in full activity, the temperature increases rapidly, +frosts are less frequent, and showers and sunshine alternate in their +mutual endeavours to clothe the earth with verdure and flowers. The +gardener is bound to be vigilant now to assist Nature in her endeavours +to benefit him; he must promote the growth of his crops by all the means +in his power; by plying the hoe to keep down weeds and open the soil to +sunshine and showers; by thinning and regulating his plantations, that +air and light may have free access to the plants left to attain +maturity; by continuing to shelter as may be needed; and by +administering water during dry weather, that vegetation may benefit to +the utmost by the happy accession of increasing sunlight.</p> + +<p><b>Artichoke, Globe</b>.—Suckers to be put in the plantations prepared for +them last month, in rows three to four feet apart each way.</p> + +<p><b>Asparagus</b>.—- Rake off into the alleys the remnant of manure from the +autumn dressing, and as soon as the weather is favourable give the beds +a light application of salt. If new beds are required, there must be no +time lost either to sow seed or get in plants. Our advice to those who +require only one small plantation is to form it by planting strong +roots; but those who intend to grow Asparagus largely may sow down a bed +every year, until they have enough, and then leave well alone; for a bed +properly made will last ten years at the very least, if taken care of. +It has been clearly demonstrated that this much-esteemed vegetable may +be grown to perfection in any garden with little more expense than +attends other crops, provided only that a reasonable amount of skill is +brought to bear upon the undertaking. A deep, rich, sandy loam suits it. +Dig in a good body of manure, and provide a mellow seed-bed. This being +done, care must be taken to sow thinly, and, in due time, to thin +severely; for a crowded plant will never supply fat sticks. Beds may be +made by planting roots instead of sowing seeds, but the roots must be +fresh, or they will not prosper. The advantage of using plants is that +‘grass’ may be cut earlier than when produced from seed.</p> + +<p><b>Bean, Broad</b>.—- Sowings may be made until the middle of this month, +after which time they are not likely to pay, especially on hot soils. It +is customary to top Beans when in flower, and the practice has its +advantages. In case the black fly takes possession, <a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>topping is a +necessity, for the insect can only subsist on the youngest leaves at the +top of the plant, and the process pretty well clears them away.</p> + +<p><b>Beans, Dwarf French,</b> may be sown outdoors at the end of the month, but +not in quantity, because of the risk of destruction by frost. Much may +be done, however, to expedite the supply of this popular vegetable, and +sowings in boxes placed in gentle heat or under the protection of a +frame will furnish plants which may be gradually hardened off for +transfer to the open in May. In proportion to the means at command, +early sowings outdoors will live or die, as determined by the weather, +although a very little protection is sufficient to carry the young +plants through a bad time in the event of late frosts and storms. But +sowings made at the end of the month will probably prosper.</p> + +<p><b>Bean, Climbing French.</b>—Sowings of the Climbing French Bean may be +made this month as directed for the Dwarf French class: the earliest in +gentle heat for transplanting, and later on in open quarters for +succession crops.</p> + +<p><b>Beet.</b>—At quite the end of the month sow in drills, a foot or fifteen +inches apart, on deep, well-dug ground, without manure. Large Beets are +not desired for the kitchen; but rather small, deeply coloured, handsome +roots are always valued, and these can only be grown in soil that has +been stirred to a good depth, and is quite free of recent manuring.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli.</b>—Make another sowing of several sorts, giving preference as +yet to the early varieties. In particularly late districts, and, +perhaps, pretty generally in the North, the late Broccoli should be sown +now, but in the Midlands and the South there is time to spare for +sowing. Be particular to have a good seed-bed, that the plants may grow +well from the first; if the early growth be starved, the plants become +the victims of club and other ruinous maladies.</p> + +<p><b>Brussels Sprouts.</b>—In many households late supplies of Brussels +Sprouts are much valued, and as the crop is capable of enduring severe +weather, a supplemental sowing should always be made during this month. +Rich soil and plenty of room are essential.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage.</b>—Sow the larger kinds for autumn use, and one or two rows of +the smaller kinds for planting in odd places as early crops are cleared +off. Cows, pigs, and poultry will always dispose of surplus Cabbage +advantageously, so there can be no serious objection to keeping up a +constant succession. Plant out from seed-beds as fast <a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>as the plants +become strong enough, for stifling and starving tend to club, mildew, +and blindness. Where Red Cabbage is in demand for use with game in +autumn, seed should be sown now.</p> + +<p><b>Cardoons</b> to be sown on land heavily manured in rows three or four feet +apart, the seeds in clumps of three each, eighteen inches apart. They +are sometimes sown in trenches, but we do not approve of that system, +for they do not require moisture to the extent of Celery, and the +blanching can be effectually accomplished without it. Our advice is to +plant on the level, unless the ground is particularly dry and hot, and +then trenches will be of great service in promoting free growth. To +insure their proper flavour, Cardoons must be large and fat.</p> + +<p><b>Carrot</b>.—Sow the main crops and put them on deeply dug ground without +manure.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflowers</b> to be planted out at every opportunity, warm, showery +weather being most favourable. If cold weather should follow, a large +proportion of the plants will be destroyed unless protected, and there +is no cheaper protection than empty flower-pots, which may be left on all +day, as well as all night, in extreme cases when a killing east wind is +blowing. Sow now for late summer and autumn use, prick the plants out +early to save buttoning, and they will make a quick return.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b>.—Sow in a warm corner of the open ground on a bed consisting +largely of rotten manure. It may happen in a good season that this +outdoor sowing will prove the most successful, as it will have no check +from first to last, and will be in just the right state for planting out +when the ground is ready for it after Peas and other early crops. If +Celery suffers a serious check at any time, it is apt to make hollow +stems, and then the quality is poor, no matter to what size the sticks +may attain. Prick out the plants from seed-pans on to a bed of rotten +manure, resting on a hard bottom, in frames or in sheltered nooks, and +look after them with extra care for a week or two. Good Celery cannot be +grown by the haphazard gardener.</p> + +<p><b>Endive</b>.—Sow a small quantity in moderate heat for the first supply, +in drills six inches apart, and when an inch high prick out on to a bed +of rich light soil.</p> + +<p><b>Herbs</b>.—Chervil, Fennel, Hyssop, and other flavouring and medicinal +Herbs, may be sown now better than at any other time, as they will start +at once into full growth, and need little after-care other than thinning +and weeding. Rich soil is not required, but the position must be dry and +sunny.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a><b>Leek</b> to be sown again if the former sowing is insufficient or has +failed.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce</b> to be sown for succession, the quick-growing, tender-hearted +kinds being the best to sow now. Plant out from frames and seed-pans. A +few forward plants may be tied, but as a rule tying is less desirable +than most people suppose. Certainly, after tying, the hearts soon rot if +not quickly eaten; and Lettuces as fine as can be desired may now be +grown without tying, the close-hearting sorts being very much improved +in that respect.</p> + +<p><b>Melon</b>.—Sow again for a second crop in houses, and grow the plants in +pots until they reach a foot high. The early crop will then be ripe, and +the house can be cleared and syringed for a fresh start. From this +sowing fruit should be ready about the beginning of July. The frame +culture advised for Cucumbers will be right for Melons, until the fruits +attain the size of a small orange. Then a thorough soaking must be +given, and under proper management no more water should be necessary. A +dry atmosphere and free ventilation are essential to bring the fruit to +perfection. Stopping must be commenced early by pinching out the leader, +and only one eye should be allowed beyond the fruit which are to remain. +Six will be enough for one plant to carry, and they should be nearly of +a size, for if one obtains a strong lead, it will be impossible to ripen +the others. The remainder should be gradually removed while young. The +worst foe of the Melon is red spider, and it is difficult to apply a +remedy without doing mischief. Water will destroy it, but this may have +disastrous results on the fruit. The most certain preventive is stout +well-grown plants. Weakly specimens appear to invite attack, and are +incapable of struggling against it. Where plants are occasionally lost +through decay at the collar, small pieces of charcoal laid in a circle +round the stem have proved a simple and effectual antidote.</p> + +<p><b>Onion</b>.—The plants raised under glass in January or February should be +ready for planting out on some favourable day about mid-April. If any +mishap has befallen the sowings made in the open in March there must be +no delay in resowing early in the present month, for Onions should have +good hold of the ground before hot weather comes. Onions for pickling +should be grown thickly on poor ground made firm. The plants are not to +be thinned, but may be allowed to stand as thick as pebbles on the +seashore. The starving system produces abundance of small handsome bulbs +that ripen early, which are the very things wanted for pickling. The +Queen and Paris Silver-skin are adapted for the purpose.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a><b>Parsley</b> to be sown in quantity for summer and autumn supply; thin as +soon as up, to give each plant plenty of room.</p> + +<p><b>Peas</b> to be sown again for succession.</p> + +<p><b>Potato</b>.—Take the earliest opportunity of completing the planting of +main crops.</p> + +<p><b>Salsify</b>.—This delicious root, which is sometimes designated the +‘Vegetable Oyster,’ requires a piece of ground deeply trenched, with a +thick layer of manure at the bottom of the trench, and not a particle of +manure in the body of soil above it. The roots strike down into the +manure, and attain a good size combined with fine quality. If carelessly +grown, they become forked and fibrous, and are much wasted in the +cooking, besides being of inferior flavour. Sow in rows fifteen inches +apart, any time from the end of March to the beginning of May. Two +sowings will generally suffice.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach</b>.—Sow the Long-standing variety, which does not run so soon as +the ordinary kind. If a plantation of Spinach Beet has not been secured, +sow at once, as there is ample time yet for a free growth and a valuable +plant.</p> + +<p><b>Turnip</b> to be sown in quantity.</p> + +<p><b>Vegetable Marrow</b>.—An early sowing to be made in pots, in readiness +for planting out immediately weather admits of it. Three plants in a pot +are enough, and they must not be weakened by excessive heat.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Greens</b>.—A sowing of Borecole should be made, and if a supply +is required in spring, it will be well to sow again in the first week of +May.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="MAY" id="MAY"></a><b>MAY</b></h3> + +<p>High-Pressure times continue, for the heat increases daily, and the +season of production is already shortened by two months. The most +pressing business is to repair all losses, for even now, if affairs have +gone wrong, it is possible to get up a stock of Winter Greens, and to +sow all the sorts of seeds that should have been sown in March and +April, with a reasonable chance of profitable results. It must not be +expected, however, that the most brisk and skilful can overtake those +who have been doing well from the first dawn of spring, and who have not +omitted to sow a single seed at the proper time from the day when +seed-sowing became requisite. The heat of the earth is now sufficient to +start many seeds into growth that are <a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>customarily sown in heat a month +or two earlier; and, therefore, those who cannot make hot-beds may grow +many choice things if they will be content to have them a week or two +later than their more fortunate neighbours. In sowing seeds of the more +tender subjects, such as Capsicums, Marrows, and Cucumbers, it will be +better to lose a few days, in order to make sure of the result desired, +rather than to be in undue haste and have the seed destroyed by heavy +rains, or the young plants nipped off by frost. Do not, therefore, sow +any of these seeds in the open ground until the weather is somewhat +settled and sunny, for if they meet with any serious check they will +scarcely recover during the whole of the season.</p> + +<p><b>Asparagus</b> in seed-beds to be thinned as soon as possible, so that +wherever two or three plants rise together, the number should be reduced +to one. But there is time yet for seedlings to appear. The bearing beds +are more attractive, for they show their toothsome tops. The cutting +must be done in a systematic manner, and if practicable always by the +same person. It is better to cut all the shoots as fast as they attain a +proper size, and sort them for use according to quality, rather than to +pick and choose the fat shoots and throw the whole plantation into +disorder. Green-topped Asparagus is in favour in this country; but those +who prefer it blanched have simply to earth it up sufficiently, and cut +below the surface, taking care to avoid injuring the young shoots which +have not pushed through. It is not for us to decide on any matter of +individual taste, but we will give a word of practical advice that may +be of value to many. It is not the custom to protect Asparagus in open +beds, but it should be; for the keen frosts that often occur when the +sticks are rising destroy a large number. This may be prevented by +covering with any kind of light, dry litter, which will not in the least +interfere with that full greening of the tops which English people +generally prefer, because the light and air will reach the plant; but +the edge of the frost will be blunted by the litter. If there is nothing +at hand for this purpose, let a man go round with the sickle and cut a +lot of long grass from the rough parts of the shrubbery, and put a light +handful over every crown in the bed. The sticks will rise with the +litter upon them like nightcaps, and will be plump and green and unhurt +by frost.</p> + +<p><b>Bean, Dwarf French</b>.—The main crops should be got in this month, and +successional sowings may be made until the early part of July. Dwarf +Beans are but seldom allowed as much space as they require, and the rows +therefore should be thinned early, for <a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>crowded plants never bear so +well as those that enjoy light and air on all sides. In Continental +cookery a good dish is made of the Beans shelled out when about half +ripe. These being served in rich gravy, are at once savoury and +wholesome. Almost all the varieties of the Dwarf and Climbing sections +may be used in this way, and the Beans should be gathered when full +grown, but not yet ripe. The self-coloured varieties are also grown for +use as dry Haricots, in which case the pods should not be removed until +perfectly ripe.</p> + +<p><b>Bean, Climbing French</b>.—Sow this month for the main crop, and onwards +until June according to requirements. In a general way the treatment +usual for Runners will answer well for outdoor crops of the Climbing +French Bean.</p> + +<p><b>Bean, Runner</b>.—In the open ground sowings may be made as soon as +conditions appear safe, but it is well to sow again at the end of the +month or in June.</p> + +<p><b>Beet</b>.—The main crop should be sown in the early part of the month. +Thin and weed the early sown, and if the ground has been suitably +prepared, it will be needless to give water to this crop. As Beet is not +wanted large, it is not advisable to sow any great breadth until the +beginning of May, or it is liable to become coarse.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli</b> to be sown for succession. Plant out from frames and forward +seed-beds at every opportunity. About the middle of the month sow for +cutting in May and June of next year.</p> + +<p><b>Brussels Sprouts</b>.—For the sake of a few fine buttons in the first +dripping days of autumn, when Peas and Runners and Marrows are gone, put +out as soon as possible some of the most forward plants, giving them a +rich soil and sunny position.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage</b>.—Plant out from seed-beds at every opportunity, choosing, if +possible, the advent of showery weather. Sow the smaller sorts and +Coleworts, especially in favoured districts where there is usually no +check to vegetation until the turn of the year.</p> + +<p><b>Capsicum</b> can be sown out of doors about the middle of the month, and +nice green pods for pickling may be secured in the autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Carrot</b>.—Thin the main crops early, and sow a few rows of Champion +Horn or Intermediate, for use in a small state during late summer, when +they make an elegant and delicate dish.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflowers</b> must have water in dry weather; they are the most hungry +and thirsty plants in the garden, but pay well for good <a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>living. Plant +out from frames as fast as ready, for they do no good to stand crowded +and starving.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b> trenches must be prepared in time, though, strange to say, this +task is generally deferred until the plants have really become weak +through overcrowding. In a small garden it is never advisable to have +Celery very forward, for the simple reason that trenches cannot be made +for it until Peas come off and other early crops are over. To insure +fine Celery the cultivator must be in advance of events rather than lag +behind them. Plenty of manure must be used; it is scarcely possible, in +fact, to employ too much, and liberality is not waste, because the +ground will be in capital condition for the next crop. There are many +modes of planting Celery, but the simplest is to make the trenches four +feet apart and a foot and a half wide, and put the plants six to nine +inches apart, according to the sorts. This work must be done neatly, +with an artistic finish. In planting take off suckers, and if any of the +leaves are blistered, pinch the blisters, and finish by dusting the +plantation with soot. As Celery loves moisture, give water freely in dry +weather.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumbers</b> of excellent quality may be grown on ridges or hills, should +the season be favourable. Suppose the cultivator to have the means of +obtaining plenty of manure, ridges, which are to run east and west, are +preferable to hills. The soil should be thrown out three feet wide and +two feet deep, and be laid up on the north side. Then put three feet of +hot manure in the trench, and cover with the soil that was taken out, so +as to form an easy slope to the south, and with a steep slope on the +north side carefully finished to prevent its crumbling down before the +season ends. The plants should be put out on the slope as soon as +possible after the ridges are made ready, under the protection of +hand-lights, until there is free growth and the weather has become quite +summery. It is a good plan to grow one or two rows of Runner Beans a +short distance from the ridge on the north side to give shelter, and in +case of bad weather after the plants are in bearing, pea-sticks or dry +litter laid about them lightly will help them through a critical time, +but stable manure must not be used. In case manure is not abundant, make +a few small hills in a sheltered, sunny spot, with whatever material is +available in the way of turf, rotten manure, or leaf-mould, taking care +that nothing injurious to vegetation is mixed with it. Put several +inches of a mixture of good loam and rotten manure on the hills, and +plant and protect as in the case of ridges. If plants are not at hand, +sow seeds; there will still be a chance of Cucumbers during July,<a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a> +August, and September; for if they thrive at all, they are pretty brisk +in their movements. Three observations remain to be made on this +subject. In the first place, what are known as ‘Ridge’ Cucumbers only +should be grown in the open air; the large sorts grown in houses are +unfit. In the second place, the plants should only be pinched once, and +there is no occasion for the niggling business which gardeners call +‘setting the bloom.’ Provide for their roots a good bed, and then let +them grow as they please. In the third place, as encouragement, we feel +bound to say that, as Cucumbers are grown to be eaten as well as to be +looked at, those from ridges are less handsome than house Cucumbers, but +are quite equal to them in flavour.</p> + +<p><b>Dandelion</b> somewhat resembles the Endive, and is one of the earliest +and most wholesome additions to the salad-bowl. Sow now and again in +June, in drills one foot asunder, and thin out the plants to one foot +apart in the rows. These will be ready for use in the following winter +and spring.</p> + +<p><b>Gourd and Pumpkin</b>.—An early show of fruit necessitates raising seeds +under glass for planting on prepared beds, and the plants must be +protected by means of lights or any other arrangement that can be +improvised as a defence against late frosts. Of course the seeds can be +sown upon the actual bed, but it is a loss of time. The rapidity with +which the plants grow is a sufficient indication that generous feeding +and copious supplies of water in dry weather are imperative.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce</b>.—Sow for succession where the plants are to remain, and plant +out the earlier sowings at every opportunity. To insure a quick growth, +and prevent the plants from running to seed, extra care in giving water +and shade will be necessary after transplanting. The larger Cabbage +Lettuces will prove useful if sown now.</p> + +<p><b>Maize and Sugar Corn</b> may be grown in this country as an ornament to +the garden, and also for the green cobs which are used as a vegetable. +Sow early in the month on rich light soil, and in a hot season, +especially when accompanied by moisture, there will be rapid growth. The +cobs to be gathered for cooking when of full size, but while quite +green.</p> + +<p><b>Melon</b>.—It is not too late to grow Melons in frames, provided a start +can be made with strong plants.</p> + +<p><b>Pea</b>.—Sow Peas again if there is any prospect of a break in the +supply. It is a good plan to prepare trenches as for Celery, but less +deep, and sow Peas in them, as the trenches can be quickly filled <a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>with +water in case of dry weather, and the vigorous growth will be proof +against mildew.</p> + +<p><b>Savoy</b> sown now will produce small useful hearts for winter use. By +many these small hearts will be preferred to large ones, as more +delicate, and therefore a sowing of Tom Thumb may be advised.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach, New Zealand</b>, can be sown in the open ground in the early part +of this month and should be thinned to about a yard apart. The growth +somewhat resembles that of the Ice Plant. The tender young tops are +pinched off for cooking, and they make an elegant Spinach, which is free +from bitterness, and is therefore acceptable to many persons who object +to the sooty flavour of ordinary Spinach.</p> + +<p><b>Tomato</b>.—By the third week in May the plants for the open border +should be hardened. In a cold pit or frame they may be gradually exposed +until the lights can be left off altogether, even at night. A thick +layer of ashes at the bottom of the frame will insure drainage and keep +off vermin. If the plants are allowed plenty of space, and are well +managed, they will possess dark, healthy foliage, needing no support +from sticks until they are in final quarters. Do not put them out before +the end of the month or the beginning of June, and choose a quiet day +for the work. If possible, give them a sunny spot under the shelter of a +wall having a southern or western aspect. On a stiff soil it is +advisable to plant on ridges, and not too deeply; for deep planting +encourages strong growth, and strong growth defers the production of +fruit. Tomatoes are sometimes grown in beds, and then it is necessary to +give them abundant room. For branched plants three feet between the +plants in the rows, and the rows four feet apart, will afford space for +tying and watering. Each plant should have the support of a stout stake +firmly fixed in the soil, and rising four feet above it; and once a week +at least the tying should be attended to. As to stopping, the centre +stem should be allowed to grow until the early flowers have set. It is +from these early flowers that outdoor Tomatoes can be successfully +ripened, and the removal of the main shoot delays their production. But +after fifteen or twenty fruits are visible the top of the leading stem +may be shortened to the length of the stake. The fruiting branches +should also be kept short beyond the fruit, and large leaves must be +shortened to allow free access of sunshine. Should the single-stem +system be adopted, three feet between the rows and two feet between +plants in the rows will suffice. On a light <a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>soil and in dry weather +weak liquid manure may, with advantage, be alternated with pure water, +but this practice must not be carried far enough to make the plants +gross, or ripening will be delayed. Fruit intended for exhibition must +be selected with judgment, and with this end in view four to six +specimens of any large variety will be sufficient for one plant to bring +to perfection.</p> + +<p><b>Turnip</b> to be sown for succession. It is well now to keep to the small +white early sorts.</p> + +<p><b>Vegetable Marrow</b>.—In cottage gardens luxuriant vines may every year +be seen trailing over the sides of heaps of decayed turf or manure. All +forward vegetables are prized, and Marrows are no exception to the rule. +An early supply from the open ground is most readily insured by raising +strong plants in pots and putting them on rich warm beds as early as the +season and district will permit. Late frosts must be guarded against by +some kind of protection, and slugs must be deterred from eating up the +plants.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="JUNE" id="JUNE"></a><b>JUNE</b></h3> + +<p>To some extent the crops will now take care of themselves, and we may +consider the chief anxieties and activities of the season over. Our +notes, therefore, will be more brief. We do not counsel the cultivator +to ‘rest and be thankful.’ It is better for him to work, but he must be +thankful all the same, if he would be happy in his healthy and +entertaining employment. Watering and weeding are the principal labours +of this month, and both must be pursued with diligence. But ordinary +watering, where every drop has to be dipped and carried, is often +injurious rather than beneficial, for the simple reason that it is only +half done. In such cases it is advisable to withhold water as long as +possible, and then to give it in abundance, watering only a small plot +every day in order to saturate the ground, and taking a week or more to +go over a piece which would be done in a day by mere surface dribblings.</p> + +<p><b>Asparagus</b> should be in full supply, and may be cut until the middle or +end of the month. When cutting should cease depends on the district. In +the South of England the 14th is about the proper time to make the last +cut; north of the Trent, the 20th may be soon enough; and further north, +cutting may be continued into July. The point to be borne in mind is +that the plant must be allowed time to grow freely without any further +check, in order to <a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>store up energy for making robust shoots next year. +It is a good plan to insert stakes, such as are used for Peas, in +Asparagus beds, to give support to the green growth against gales of +wind; for when the stems are snapped by storms, as they often are, the +roots lose their aid, and are weakened for their future work.</p> + +<p><b>Beans</b>, both Dwarf and Runner, may be sown about the middle of the +month, to supply tender pods when those from the early sowings are past. +A late crop of Runners will pay well almost anywhere, for they bear +until the frost cuts them down, which may not happen until far into +November.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli</b>.—- Take advantage of showers to continue planting out.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage</b>.—Towards the end of the month sow a good breadth of small +Cabbages and Coleworts. They will be immensely valuable to plant out as +the summer crops are cleared away.</p> + +<p><b>Capsicums</b> may be planted out in a sunny sheltered spot.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflowers</b> that are transferred now from seed-beds must have +plentiful supplies of water, and be shaded during midday for a week. +When the heads are visible it is customary to snap one of the inner +leaves over them for protection.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b> to be planted out without loss of time, in showery weather if +possible; but if the weather is hot and dry, shade the plants and give +water. The work must be well done, hence it is advisable to lift no more +plants than can be quickly dealt with, for exposure tends to exhaustion, +and Celery ought never to suffer a check in even the slightest degree. +When planted, dust lightly with soot or wood-ashes. Pea-sticks laid +across the trenches will give shade enough with very little trouble.</p> + +<p><b>Chicory</b>.—This wholesome esculent is used in a variety of ways, and is +very much prized in some households. The blanched heads make an +acceptable accompaniment to cheese, and are much appreciated for +salading; they may also be stewed and served with melted butter in the +same manner as Sea Kale. To grow large clean roots a deep rich soil is +required. If manure must be added, use that which is well decayed, and +bury it at least twelve inches, for near the surface it will produce +fanged roots. Prepare the seed-bed as for Parsnips, sow in drills twelve +inches apart, and thin the plants to nine inches in the rows. In October +the roots will be ready for lifting, preparatory to being packed in dark +quarters for blanching.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumbers for Pickling</b> may be sown on ridges.</p> + +<p><b>Endive</b> is not generally wanted while good Lettuces abound, but it +takes the place of Lettuce in autumn and winter, when the more <a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>delicate +vegetable is scarce. Sow in shallow drills six inches apart. Thin the +plants, and transfer the thinnings to rich light soil. They must be +liberally grown on well-manured land, with the aid of water in dry +weather.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce</b> to be sown and planted at every opportunity. A few rows of +large Cos varieties should be sown in trenches prepared as for Celery, +there to be thinned and allowed to stand. They will form fine hearts, +and be valued at a time when Lettuces are scarce.</p> + +<p><b>Melon.</b>—For a final crop in houses sow as previously directed, and +grow the plants on in pots, until the house can be cleared of the former +set for their reception. The growth should be pushed forward to insure +ripe fruit before the end of September. In the event of dull weather at +the finish, there will be all the greater need of abundant but judicious +ventilation, and of a warm dry atmosphere at night. Before they become +heavy every fruit should have the support of nets or thin pieces of +board suspended by wires from the corners.</p> + +<p><b>Mushrooms</b> may be prepared for now. The first step towards success is +to accumulate a long heap of horse-droppings with the least possible +amount of litter. Let this ferment moderately, and turn it two or three +times, always making a long heap of it, which keeps down the +fermentation. When the fire is somewhat taken out of it, make up the bed +with a mixture of about four parts of the fermented manure and one part +of turfy loam, well incorporated. Beat the stuff together with the flat +of the spade as the work proceeds, fashioning the bed in the form of a +ridge about three feet wide at the base, and of any length that may be +convenient. Give the work a neat finish, or the Mushrooms will certainly +not repay you. Put in rather large lumps of spawn when the bed is nicely +warm, cover with a thin layer of fine soil, and protect with mats or +clean straw. This is a quick and easy way of growing Mushrooms, and by +commencing now the season is all before one. Nine times in ten, people +begin preparations for Mushroom growing about a month too late, for the +spawn runs during the hot weather, and the crop rises when the moderate +autumnal temperature sets in.</p> + +<p><b>Onions</b> to be sown for salading. Forward beds of large sorts to be +thinned in good time. The best Onions for keeping are those of moderate +size, perfectly ripened; therefore the thinning should not be too +severe.</p> + +<p><b>Peas</b> may still be sown, and as the season advances preference should +be given to quick-growing early varieties.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a><b>Turnips</b> may be sown in variety and in quantity after Midsummer Day. +Sow on well-prepared ground, and put a sprinkle of artificial manure in +the drills with the seed. By hastening the early growth of the plant the +fly is kept in check.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="JULY" id="JULY"></a><b>JULY</b></h3> + +<p>For gardeners July is in one respect like January; everything depends on +the weather. It may be hot, with frequent heavy rains, and vegetation in +the most luxuriant growth; or the earth may be iron and the heavens +brass, with scarcely a green blade to be seen. The light flying showers +that usually occur in July do not render watering unnecessary; in fact, +a heavy soaking of a crop after a moderate rainfall is a valuable aid to +its growth, for it requires a long-continued heavy downpour to penetrate +to the roots.</p> + +<p><b>Summer-sown Vegetables for Autumn and Winter use.</b> As the month +advances early crops will be finished and numerous plots of ground +become vacant. In many gardens it is now the practice to sow in July and +August seeds of quick-growing varieties of Vegetables and Salads to +furnish supplies through the autumn and early winter months, and this +system is strongly to be commended. These sowings not only increase the +cropping capacity of the garden but they extend the use of many +favourite Vegetables which from spring sowings customarily cease at the +end of summer. Two things are essential to success. <i>Early-maturing +varieties only should be sown and the plants must be thinned immediately +they appear (thus avoiding transplanting), so that they receive no check +in growth.</i> The following subjects are especially suited for the +purpose: Dwarf French Beans (sow early in July), Beet, Cabbage, Carrot, +Cauliflower (sow early in July), Italian Corn Salad, Cress, Endive, Kohl +Rabi, Lettuce, Onion, Parsley, Peas, Radish, Spinach, and Turnip. +Potatoes may also be planted in July, but only tubers of early varieties +saved from the preceding year should be used.</p> + +<p><b>Garden Rubbish</b> is apt to accumulate in odd corners and become +offensive. The stumps of Cabbages and Cauliflowers give off most +obnoxious odours, and neighbours ought not to be annoyed by want of +thought in one particular garden. The short and easy way with all soft +decaying rubbish is to put it at the bottom of a trench when preparing +land for planting. There it ceases to be a nuisance and becomes a +valuable manure.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a><b>Beans.</b>—A few Dwarf French Beans may still be sown to extend outdoor +crops to the latest possible date. For autumn and winter supplies +sowings of the Dwarf and Climbing classes may be made from mid-July to +mid-September, the dwarfs in cold frames and the climbers on narrow +borders in any house that can be spared for the purpose.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli</b> to be planted out as before; many of the plants left over +from former plantings will now be stout and strong, and make useful +successions.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage.</b>—The sowing of Cabbage seed at this period of the year +entails consequences of such grave importance as to merit +reconsideration. When the crop has passed the winter there is a danger +that the plants may bolt, instead of forming hearts. In the great +majority of such cases the loss is attributable to an unwise selection +of sorts. For sowing in spring there is quite a long list of varieties, +many of them possessing distinctive qualities which meet various +requirements. It is otherwise now. The Cabbages that can be relied on to +finish well in spring are comparatively few in number. But repeated +experiments have demonstrated that loss and disappointment can be +avoided by sowing only those varieties which show no tendency to bolt. +Another, but minor, cause of Cabbages starting seed-stems is premature +sowing. The exact date for any district must be determined by the +latitude and the aspect of the place. In the North sowing will, of +necessity, be earlier than in the Midlands or the South. Assuming, +however, that suitable varieties are chosen, the whole difficulty can be +disposed of, even on soils where Cabbages show an unusual tendency to +send up seed-stems prematurely, by sowing in August instead of in July. +The seed-bed should be nicely prepared, and any old plaster, or other +rubbish containing lime, should be dug in. Sow thinly, for a thick +sowing makes a weak plant, no matter how severely it may be thinned +afterwards.</p> + +<p><b>Cardoons</b> to be thinned to one plant in each station, and that, of +course, the strongest.</p> + +<p><b>Carrot.</b>—Frame culture of small sorts should commence, to produce a +succession of young Carrots for table.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b> to be planted out in showery weather. It is too late to sow +now, except for soups, and for that purpose only a small sowing should +be made, as it may not come to anything.</p> + +<p><b>Chards.</b>—Those who care for Chards must cut down a number of Globe +Artichokes about six inches above ground, and, if necessary, <a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>keep the +plants well watered to induce new growth, which will be ready for +blanching in September.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumbers</b> on ridges generally do well without water, but they must not +be allowed to suffer from drought. If watering must be resorted to, make +sure first of soft water well warmed by exposure to the sun, and water +liberally three or four evenings in succession, and then give no more +for a week or so.</p> + +<p><b>Endive</b> to be sown for winter. It will be well to make two sowings, say +on the first and last days of the month.</p> + +<p><b>Garlic and Shallots</b> to be taken up in suitable weather, and it may be +necessary to complete the ripening under shelter.</p> + +<p><b>Leeks</b> to be planted out; and on dry soils, in trenches prepared as for +Celery.</p> + +<p><b>Parsley</b> to be sown for winter use. It is a most important matter, even +in the smallest garden, to have a constant supply.</p> + +<p><b>Peas.</b>—Only quick-growing early varieties should be sown now.</p> + +<p><b>Potatoes.</b>—Where there is a good crop of an early variety it should be +lifted without waiting for the shaws to die down. The tender skins will +suffer damage if the work is done roughly, but will soon harden, and the +stock will ripen in the store as perfectly as in the ground. It needs +some amount of courage to lift Potatoes while the tops are still green +and vigorous, and it should not be done until the roots are fully grown +and beginning to ripen. Quick-growing sorts may be planted to dig as new +Potatoes later in the year.</p> + +<p><b>Radish.</b>—Sow the large-growing kinds for winter use.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach.</b>—Sow the Prickly-seeded to stand the winter, selecting for +the seed-bed ground lying high and dry that has been at least twice dug +over and has had no recent manure. The twice digging is to promote the +destruction of the ‘Spinach Moth’ grub, which the robins and thrushes +will devour when exposed by digging. These grubs make an end of many a +good breadth of Winter Spinach every year, and are the more to be feared +by the careless cultivator.</p> + +<p><b>Turnips</b> to be sown in quantity in the early part of the month; thin +advancing crops, and keep the hoe in action amongst them.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Greens</b> of all kinds to be planted out freely in the best ground +at command, after a good digging, and to be aided with water for a week +or so should the weather be dry.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a> +<a name="AUGUST" id="AUGUST"></a><b>AUGUST</b></h3> + +<p>The importance of summer-sown Vegetables and Salads is dealt with under +July, and seeds of most of the subjects there named may still be put in +as ground becomes vacant. The supplies of the garden during the next +winter and spring will in great part depend upon good management now, +and the utmost must be made of the few weeks of growing weather that +remain. One great difficulty in connection with sowing seed at this +period of the year is the likelihood of the ground being too dry; yet it +is most unwise to water seeds, and it is always better if they can be +got up with the natural moisture of the soil alone. However, in an +extreme case the ground should be well soaked before the seed is sown, +and after sowing covered with hurdles, pea-sticks, or mats until the +seeds begin to sprout.</p> + +<p><b>Artichokes, Globe</b>, to be cut down as soon as the heads are used.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli</b> to be planted out. As the Sprouting Broccoli, which belongs +to the class of ‘Winter Greens,’ does not pay well in spring unless it +grows freely now, plant it far enough apart; if crowded where already +planted to stand the winter, take out every alternate plant and make +another plantation.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage.</b>—In many small gardens the August sowing of Cabbages is made +to suffice for the whole year, and in the largest establishments greater +breadths are sown now than at any other period. But whether the garden +be small or large, it is not wise to rely exclusively on the sowing of +any one kind. At least two varieties should be chosen, and as a +precaution each variety may be sown at two dates, with an interval of +about a fortnight between. The wisdom of this arrangement will be +evident in nine seasons out of ten. It allows for contingencies, +prolongs the season of supply, and offers two distinct dishes of a +single vegetable—the mature hearts, and the partially developed plants, +which differ, when served, both in appearance and in flavour. Where the +demand is extensive, or great diversity is required, three or four kinds +should be sown, including Red Cabbage to produce fine heads for pickling +next year.</p> + +<p><b>Cardoon.</b>—Commence blanching if the plants are ready.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflower.</b>—Seed sown now will produce finer heads in spring and +early summer than are generally obtained from a January or February +sowing. The time to sow must be determined by the <a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>climate of the +district. In cold, late localities, the first week is none too early; +from the 15th to the 25th is a good time for all the Midland districts; +and the end of the month, or the first week of September, is early +enough in the South. In Devon and Cornwall the sowing is later still. +But whatever date may suit the district, the seed should be sown with +care, in order that a healthy growth may be promoted from the first. +Winter the plants in frames or by other convenient means, but it is +important to keep them hardy by giving air at every favourable +opportunity.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b> to be carefully earthed up as required. It takes five weeks or +more to blanch Celery well, and as the earthing up checks growth, the +operation should not be commenced a day too soon. Take care that the +earth does not get into the hearts.</p> + +<p><b>Corn Salad</b> should be sown during this month and September to produce +plants fit for use in early spring. In the summer months the whole plant +is edible, but in winter or spring the outer leaves only should be used.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumber.</b>—For a supply of Cucumbers during the winter months the +general principles of management are identical with those given under +January and March, with one important exception. At the commencement of +the year a continued increase of light and warmth may be relied on. Now +there will be a constant diminution of these vital forces. Hence the +progress of the plants will gradually abate as the year wanes, and due +allowance must be made for the fact. So much depends on the character of +the autumn and winter that it will be unwise to risk all on a single +sowing. Seed put in on two or three occasions between the end of August +and the end of October will provide plants in various stages of growth +to meet the exigencies of the season. The production of Cucumbers will +then depend on care and management. In very dull cold weather it may be +dangerous to syringe the foliage, but the necessary moisture can be +secured by sprinkling the floor and walls.</p> + +<p><b>Endive.</b>—Make a final sowing, and plant out all that are large enough, +selecting, if possible, a dry, sloping bank for the purpose.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce</b> to be sown to stand the winter, choosing the hardiest +varieties. In cold districts the middle of the month is a good time to +sow; in favoured places the end of the month is preferable.</p> + +<p><b>Onion.</b>—For many years the Tripoli section enjoyed pre-eminence for +sowing at this season, the opinion prevailing that other kinds were +unsuitable. But it is found that several varieties which may with +propriety be described as English Onions are as hardy as the<a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a> Tripolis, +and therefore as well adapted for sowing at this season. Thus, instead +of sorts that must be used quickly, we may command for summer sowing the +best of the keepers, and the result will be heavier crops and earlier +ripening, with plentiful supplies of ‘thinnings’ for salads all through +the autumn and winter. Two sowings—one at the beginning, the other at +the end of the month—may be adopted with advantage. The storage of +Onions is often faulty, and consequently losses occur through mildew and +premature growth. If any are as yet unripe, spread them out in the sun +in a dry place, where they can be covered quickly in case of rain. In +wet, cold seasons, it is sometimes necessary to finish the store Onions +by putting them in a nearly cold oven for some hours before they are +stored away.</p> + +<p><b>Pea.</b>—Crops coming forward for late bearing should have attention, +more especially to make them safe against storms by a sufficiency of +support, and in case of drought to give abundance of water.</p> + +<p><b>Strawberry Plants</b> may be put in should the weather prove favourable; +but next month will answer. In burning weather it is well worth while to +bed the plants closely in a moist shady place until rain comes, and then +plant out.</p> + +<p><b>Tomatoes</b> to be gathered as soon as ripe. If bad weather interferes +with the finishing of the crop, cut the full-grown fruit with a length +of stem attached, and hang them up in a sunny greenhouse, or some other +warm spot in full daylight. Seed sown now or in September will produce +plants that should afford fine fruit in March, and it will need care and +judgment to carry them safely through the winter.</p> + +<p><b>Turnip</b> may be sown in the early part of the month. The best sorts now +are White Gem, or Snowball. All the Year Round will please those who +like a yellow Turnip.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="SEPTEMBER" id="SEPTEMBER"></a><b>SEPTEMBER</b></h3> + +<p>Weeds will be troublesome to the overworked and the idle gardener, while +the best-kept land will be full of seeds blown upon it from the +sluggard’s garden, and the first shower will bring them up in terrific +force. All that we have to say about them is that they must be kept +down, for they not only choke the rising crops in seed-beds and spoil +the look of everything, but they very much tend to keep the ground damp +and cold, when, if they were away, it would get dry and warm, <a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>to the +benefit of all the proper crops upon it. Neglect will make the task of +eradication simply terrible, and, in the meantime, every crop on the +ground will suffer. The two great months for weeds are May and +September; but often the September weeds triumph, because the mischief +they do is not then so obvious to the casual eye. As there are now many +used-up crops that may be cleared away, large quantities of Cabbage, +Endive, Lettuce, and even thinnings of Spinach may be planted out to +stand the winter.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbage.</b>—We advocate crowding the land now with Cabbage plants, for +growth will be slow and the demands of the kitchen constant. Crowding, +however, is not quite the same thing as overcrowding, and it is only a +waste of labour, land and crop to put the plants so close together that +they have not space for full development. The usual rule in planting out +the larger sorts of Cabbage at this time of the year is to allow a +distance every way of two feet between the plants. The crowding +principle may be carried so far as to put miniature Cabbages between +them, but only on the clear understanding that the small stuff is all to +be cleared off before spring growth commences, and the large Cabbages +will then have proper space for development.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflower.</b>—Sow again in a frame or in a pan in the greenhouse.</p> + +<p><b>Celery.</b>—Continue to earth up, selecting a dry time for the task.</p> + +<p><b>Chards</b> take quite six weeks to blanch by means of straw, covered with +earth.</p> + +<p><b>Cucumbers</b> for the winter need careful management and suitable +appliances. See the remarks on this subject under August.</p> + +<p><b>Endive</b> to be planted out as directed last month. Plant a few on the +border of an orchard-house, or in a ground vinery, or in old frames for +which some lights, however crazy, can be found.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuces</b> should be coming in from the garden now in good condition, +but the supply will necessarily be running short. Sowings of two or +three sorts should be made partly in frames and partly on a dry open +plot from which a crop has been taken. The ground should be well dug but +not manured. Sow thinly, so that there will not be much need for +thinning, and confine the selection to sorts known to be hardy. The +August sowings will soon be forward enough for putting out, and it will +be advisable to get the work done as early as possible, to insure the +plants being well established before winter.</p> + +<p><b>Parsley.</b>—The latest sowing will require thinning, but for the present +this must not be too strictly carried out; between this and <a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>spring +there will be many opportunities. Thin the plot by drawing out complete +plants as Parsley is demanded for the kitchen. If no late sowing was +made, or, having been made, has failed, cut down to the ground the +strongest plants, that a new growth may be secured quickly. A few plants +potted at the end of the month, or lifted and placed in frames, may +prove exceedingly valuable in winter.</p> + +<p><b>Potatoes</b> that are ready should be taken up with reasonable care. It is +not wise to wait for the dying down of the shaws, because, when the +tubers are fully grown, they ripen as well in the store, out of harm’s +way, as in the ground, where they are exposed to influences that are +simply destructive.</p> + +<p><b>Spinach.</b>—In favourable seasons and forward localities Winter Spinach +sown in the first half of this month will make a good plant before +winter. Thin the plants that are already up to six inches apart.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="OCTOBER" id="OCTOBER"></a><b>OCTOBER</b></h3> + +<p>Weeds and falling leaves are the plagues of the season. It may seem that +they do no harm, but assuredly they are directly injurious to every crop +upon the ground, for they encourage damp and dirt by preventing a free +circulation of air amongst the crops, and the access of sunshine to the +land. Keep all clean and tidy, even to the removal of the lower leaves +of Cabbages, where they lie half decayed upon the ground.</p> + +<p>The heavy rains of this month interfere in a material degree with +outdoor work, and are often a great impediment to the orderly management +that should prevail. The accumulation of rubbish anywhere, even if out +of sight, is to be deplored as an evil altogether. The injury to +vegetation is as great as that inflicted on our own health when dirt +poisons the air and damp hastens the general dissolution. It is +therefore above all things necessary to keep the garden clean from end +to end. All decaying refuse that can be put into trenches should be got +out of sight as soon as possible, to rot harmlessly instead of infecting +the air, and leaves should be often swept up into heaps, in which form +they cease to be injurious, although, when spread upon the ground and +trodden under foot, they are breeders of mischief. If in want of work, +ply the hoe amongst all kinds of crops, taking care not to break or +bruise healthy leaves, or to disturb the roots of any plant. Dig vacant +plots, and lay the land up in ridges <a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>in the roughest manner possible. +Heavy land may be manured now with advantage, but it is not desirable to +manure light land until spring.</p> + +<p><b>Cabbages</b> to be planted out as advised last month.</p> + +<p><b>Cardoon.</b>—Blanching must be continued.</p> + +<p><b>Carrots.</b>—Lift the roots and store in sand.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflowers</b> to be prepared for the winter.</p> + +<p><b>Celeriac.</b>—Part of the crop should be lifted and stored in sand; the +plants left in the ground to be protected by earthing over.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b> must be earthed up, and protecting material got ready to assure +its safety during frost.</p> + +<p><b>Chicory.</b>—Raise about a dozen plants at a time as required, cut or +wrench off the foliage, and pack the roots, crown upwards, in boxes with +moist leaf-mould or soil. They must be stored in absolute darkness in +some cellar or Mushroom-house which is safe from frost, but a forcing +temperature is detrimental to the flavour. Gathering may commence about +three weeks after storing. The yield is abundant, and is of especial +value for salading through the autumn and winter months.</p> + +<p><b>Endive</b> to be blanched for use as it acquires full size, but not +before, as the blanching makes an end of growth.</p> + +<p><b>Lettuce.</b>—Continue to plant as before advised, and make a final sowing +in frames not later than the middle of the month.</p> + +<p><b>Parsnips</b> may be dug all the winter as wanted. Although a slight frost +will not injure them when left in the ground, protection by rough litter +is needful in very severe weather. It often happens that they grow +freely soon after the turn of the year, and then become worthless.</p> + +<p><b>Potatoes</b> to be taken up and stored with all possible speed.</p> + +<p><b>Rhubarb</b> for forcing should be taken up and laid aside in a dry, cool +place, exposed to the weather. This gives the roots a check, and +constitutes a kind of winter, which in some degree prepares them for the +forcing pit.</p> + +<p><b>Roots</b>, such as Beet, Salsify, and Turnip, to be taken up as soon as +possible, and stored for the winter.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Greens</b> may still be transplanted, and it is often better to use +up the remainder of the seed-beds than to let the plants stand. In the +event of a severe winter, these late-planted Greens may not be of much +value; but in a mild growing winter they will make some progress, and +may prove very useful in the spring.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a> +<a name="NOVEMBER" id="NOVEMBER"></a><b>NOVEMBER</b></h3> + +<p>The remarks already made on the necessity for tidiness and the quick +disposal of all decaying refuse apply as forcibly to this month as to +October. The leaves are falling, the atmosphere is moist, and there +should be the utmost care taken not to make things worse by scatterings +of vegetable rubbish. Now we are in the ‘dull days before Christmas’ the +affairs of the garden may be reviewed in detail, and this is the best +period for such a review. Sorts that have done well or ill, wants that +have been felt, mistakes that have been made, are fresh in one’s memory, +and in ordering seeds, roots, plants, &c., for next season’s work, +experience and observation can be recorded with a view to future +benefit. Consistently with the revision of plans by the fireside, revise +the work out of doors. Begin to prepare for next year’s crops by +trenching, manuring, planting, and collecting stuff to burn in a +‘smother.’ Land dug now for spring seeds and roots, and kept quite +rough, will only require to be levelled down and raked over when spring +comes to be ready for seed, and will produce better crops than if +prepared in a hurry. Protecting material for all the needs of the season +must be in readiness, in view of the fact that a few nights of hard +frost may destroy Lettuces, Endives, Celery, and Cauliflowers worth many +pounds, which a few shillings’-worth of labour and litter would have +saved. Earthwork can generally be pushed on, and it is good practice to +get all road-mending and the breaking up of new ground completed before +the year runs out, because of the hindrance that may result from frost, +and the inevitable pressure of other work at the turn of the spring. The +weather is an important matter; but often the month of November is +favourable to outdoor work, and labour can then be found more readily +than at most other seasons.</p> + +<p><b>Artichokes, Globe</b>, must be protected ere frost attacks them. Cut off +the stems and large leaves to within a foot of the ground; then heap up +along each side of the rows a lot of dry litter consisting of straw, pea +haulm, or leaves, taking care in so doing to leave free access to light +and air. The hearts must not be covered, or decay will follow.</p> + +<p><b>Artichokes, Jerusalem</b>, may be dug as wanted, but some should be lifted +and stored in sand for use during frosts.</p> + +<p><b>Asparagus</b> beds not yet cleaned must have prompt attention.<a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a> Cut down +the brown grass and rake off all the weeds and rubbish, and finish by +putting on a dressing of seaweed, or half-rotten stable manure.</p> + +<p><b>Bean, Broad.</b>—It is customary on dry warm soils to sow Beans at the +end of October or during November for a first crop, and the practice is +to be commended. On cold damp soils, and on clay lands everywhere, it is +a waste of seed and labour to sow now, but every district has its +peculiar capabilities, and each cultivator must judge for himself. In +any case, Beans sown during this month should be put on well-drained +land in a sheltered spot.</p> + +<p><b>Broccoli.</b>—In inclement districts lay the plants with their heads +facing the north.</p> + +<p><b>Carrot</b> to be sown in frames, and successive sowings made every three +or four weeks until February.</p> + +<p><b>Cauliflowers</b> will be turning in, and possibly those coming forward +will be all the better off for being covered with a leaf to protect the +heads from frost. If the barometer rises steadily and the wind goes +round to north or north-east, draw all the best Cauliflowers, and put +them in a shed or any out-of-the-way place safe for use.</p> + +<p><b>Celery.</b>—Hard frost coming after heavy rain may prove destructive to +Celery; and it is well, if there is a crop worth saving, to cut a trench +round the plantation to favour escape of surplus water. If taken up and +packed away in a dry shed, the sticks will keep fresh for some time.</p> + +<p><b>Horse-radish</b> to be taken up and stored ready for use, and new +plantations made as weather permits and ground can be spared.</p> + +<p><b>Pea.</b>—The sowing of Peas outdoors now is not recommended for general +practice, but only for those who are so favourably circumstanced as to +have a fair prospect of success. If it is determined to sow, select for +the purpose a dry, light, well-drained sunny border, and make it safe +from mice, slugs, and sparrows. The quick-growing round-seeded varieties +must be chosen for the purpose, and it will be advisable to sow two or +three sorts rather than one only. Peas to be grown entirely under glass +may be started now.</p> + +<p><b>Sea Kale</b> to be lifted for forcing. This delicious vegetable may, +indeed, be forced for the table in this month; but it is not advisable +to be in such haste, for a fine sample cannot be secured so early. Sea +Kale is the easiest thing in the world to force; the only point of +importance is to have strong roots to begin with. Any place such as<a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a> +Mushroom-houses, cellars, pits, or old sheds, where it is possible to +maintain a temperature of 45° to 55°, may be utilised for the purpose. +Put the plants thickly into pots or boxes, or plant them in a bed, and +it is essential to exclude light to insure blanching. By these simple +means a regular supply may be obtained until the permanent beds in the +open ground come into use.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><a name="DECEMBER" id="DECEMBER"></a><b>DECEMBER</b></h3> + +<p>The best advice that can be given for this month is to be prepared for +either heavy rain or sharp frost, so that extreme variations of +temperature may inflict the least possible injury in the garden. Let the +work be ordered with reference to the weather, that there may be no +‘poaching’ on wet ground, or absurd conflict with frost. Accept every +opportunity of wheeling out manure; and as long as the ground can be dug +without waste of labour, proceed to open trenches, make drains, and mend +walks, because this is the period for improving, and the place must be +very perfect which affords no work for winter weather. Dispose of all +rubbish by the simple process of putting it in trenches when digging +plots for early seeds. In sheds and outhouses many tasks may be found, +such as making large substantial tallies for the garden; the little +paltry things commonly used being simply delusive, for they are +generally missing when wanted, from their liability to be trodden into +the ground or kicked anywhere by a heedless foot. Make ready pea-sticks, +stakes of sizes, and at odd times gather up all the dry stuff that is +adapted for a grand ‘smother.’ A careful forecasting of the next year’s +cropping will show that even now many arrangements may be made to +increase the chances of success.</p> + +<p><b>Warm Border</b> to be prepared for early work by digging and manuring. All +the refuse turf and leaf-mould from the potting-shed and the soil +knocked out of pots may be usefully disposed of by adding it to this +border, which cannot be too light or too rich, and a good dressing of +manure will give it strength to perform its duties.</p> + +<p><b>Beans, Broad</b>, to be earthed up for protection and support.</p> + +<p><b>Celery</b> to be earthed up for the last time. In case of severe weather, +have protecting material at hand in the shape of dry litter or mats. +Pea-sticks make a capital foundation on which to throw long litter, +mats, &c., for quickly covering Celery, the protection being as quickly +removed when the frost is over, and costing next to nothing.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a><b>Endive</b> will be valued now, and must be blanched as required. Place a +few in frames and other protected spots. In the unused corners of sheds +and outhouses they may be safer than out of doors.</p> + +<p><b>Parsley.</b>—In all cold districts it is wise to secure a bed of Parsley, +in a frame or pit, or if a few plants were potted in September, they may +be wintered in any place where they can have light and air freely. It is +so important to have Parsley at command as wanted, that it may be worth +while to put a frame over a few rows as they stand in the open quarter, +rather than risk the loss of all in the event of severe weather.</p> + +<p><b>Radish.</b>—Sow one of the long sorts for a first supply in some warm +spot, to secure quick growth.</p> + +<p><b>Underground Onions</b> to be planted in rows one foot apart. They should +not be earthed up, for the young bulbs form round the stems in full +daylight.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a> +<a name="THE_ROTATION_OF_CROPS_IN_THE_VEGETABLE_GARDEN" id="THE_ROTATION_OF_CROPS_IN_THE_VEGETABLE_GARDEN"> +</a>THE ROTATION OF CROPS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN</h2> + +<p>This is a subject worthy the attention of those who aim at the largest +possible production and the highest possible quality of every kind of +kitchen-garden crop, for it concerns the natural relations of the plant +and the soil as to their several chemical constituents. The principle +may be illustrated by considering the demands of two of the most common +kitchen-garden crops. If we submit a Cabbage to the destructive agency +of fire, and analyse the ashes that remain, we shall find in them, in +round numbers, eight per cent. of sulphuric acid, sixteen per cent. of +phosphoric acid, four per cent. of soda, forty-eight per cent. of +potash, and fifteen per cent. of lime. It is evident that we cannot +expect to grow a Cabbage on a soil which is destitute of these +ingredients, to say nothing of others. The obnoxious odour of sulphur +emitted by decaying Cabbages might indicate, to anyone accustomed to +reflect on ordinary occurrences, that sulphur is an important +constituent of Cabbage. If we submit a Potato tuber to a similar +process, the result will be to find in the ashes fifty-nine per cent. of +potash, two per cent. of soda, six per cent. of sulphuric acid, nineteen +per cent. of phosphoric acid, and two per cent. of lime. The lesson for +the cultivator is, that to prepare a soil for Cabbage it is of the +utmost importance to employ a manure containing sulphates, phosphates, +and potash salts in considerable quantity; as for the lime, that can be +supplied separately, but the Cabbage must have it. On the other hand, to +prepare a soil for Potatoes it is necessary to employ a manure strongly +charged with salts of potash and phosphates, but it need not be highly +charged with soda or lime, for we find but a small proportion of these +ingredients in the Potato. There are soils so naturally rich in all +<a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>that crops require, that they may be tilled for years without the aid +of manures, and will not cease to yield an abundant return. But such +soils are exceptional, and those that need constant manuring are the +rule. One point more, ere we proceed to apply to practice these +elementary considerations. In almost every soil, whether strong clay, +mellow loam, poor sand, or even chalk, there are comminglings of all the +minerals required by plants, and, indeed, if there were not, we should +see no herbage on the downs, and no Ivies climbing, as they do, to the +topmost heights of limestone rocks. But usually a considerable +proportion of those mineral constituents on which plants feed are locked +up in the staple, and are only dissolved out slowly as the rain, the +dew, the ever-moving air, and the sunshine operate upon them and make +them available. As the rock slowly yields up its phosphates, alkalies +and silica to the wild vegetation that runs riot upon it, so the +cultivated field (which is but rock in a state of decay) yields up its +phosphates, alkalies and silica for the service of plants the more +quickly because it is the practice of the cultivator to stir the soil +and continually expose fresh surfaces to the transforming power of the +atmosphere. It has been said that the air we breathe is a powerful +manure. So it is, but not in the sense that is applicable to stable +manure or guano. The air may and does afford to plants much of their +food, but it can only help them to the minerals they require by +dissolving these out of pebbles, flints, nodules of chalk, sandstone, +and other substances in the soil which contain them in what may be +termed a locked-up condition. Every fresh exposure of the soil to the +air, and especially to frost and snow, is as the opening of a new mine +of fertilisers for the service of those plants on which man depends for +his subsistence.</p> + +<p>The application to practice of these considerations is an extremely +simple matter in the first instance, but it may become very complicated +if followed far enough. Here we can only touch the surface of the +subject, yet we hope to do so usefully. Suppose, then, that we grow +Cabbage, or Cauliflower, or Broccoli, on the same plot of ground, one +crop following the other for a long series of years, and never refresh +the soil with manure, it must be evident that we shall, some day or +other, find the crop fail through the exhaustion of the soil of its +available sulphur, phosphates, lime, or potash. But if this soil were +allowed to lie fallow for some time, it would again produce a crop of +Cabbage, owing to the liberation of mineral matters which, when the +crops were failing, were not released fast enough, but which, during the +rest allowed to the soil, accumulated sufficiently <a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>to sustain a crop. +Obviously this mode of procedure is unprofitable and tends of necessity +to exhaustion, although it must be confessed that utter exhaustion of +any soil is a thing at present almost unknown. But, instead of following +a practice which impoverishes, let us enrich the soil with manure, and +change the crops on the same plot, so that when one crop has largely +taxed it for one class of minerals, a different crop is grown which will +tax it for another class of minerals. Take for a moment’s consideration +one of the necessary constituents of a fertile soil, common salt +(chloride of sodium). In the ash of a Cabbage there is about six per +cent. of this mineral, in the Turnip about ten per cent., in the Potato +two to three per cent., in the Beet eighteen to twenty per cent. On the +other hand the Beet contains very little sulphur, but both Turnip and +Beet agree in being strongly charged with potash and soda. It follows +that if we crop a piece of ground with Cabbage, and wish to avoid the +failure that may occur if we continue to crop with Cabbage, we may +expect to do well by giving the ground a dressing of common salt and +potash salts, and then crop it with Beet.</p> + +<p>The whole subject is not exhausted by this mode of viewing it, for all +the facts are not yet fully understood by the ablest of our chemists and +physiologists, and crops differ in their methods of seeking nourishment. +We might find two distinct plants nearly agreeing in chemical +constitution, and yet one might fail where the other would succeed. +Suppose, for instance, we have grown Cabbage and other surface-rooting +crops until the soil begins to fail, even then we might obtain from it a +good crop of Parsnips or Carrots, for the simple reason that these send +their roots down to a stratum that the Cabbage never reached; and it is +most instructive to bear in mind that although the Parsnip will grow on +poor land, and pay on land that has been badly tilled for years, yet the +ashes of the Parsnip contain thirty-six per cent. of potash, eleven per +cent. of lime, eighteen per cent. of phosphoric acid, six per cent. of +sulphuric acid, three per cent. of phosphate of iron, and five per cent. +of common salt. How does the Parsnip obtain its mineral food in a soil +which for other crops appears to be exhausted? Simply by pushing down +for it into a mine that has hitherto been but little worked, though +Cabbage might fail on the same plot because the superficial stratum has +been overtaxed.</p> + +<p>Having attempted a general, we now proceed to a particular application. +In the first place, good land, well tilled and abundantly manured, +cannot be soon exhausted; but even in this case <a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a>a rotation of crops is +advisable. It is less easy to say why than to insist that in practice we +find it to be so. The question then arises—What is a rotation of crops? +It is the ordering of a succession in such a manner that the crops will +tax the soil for mineral aliments in a different manner. A good rotation +will include both chemical and mechanical differences, and place +tap-roots in a course between surface roots, as, for example, Carrot, +Parsnip, and Beet, after Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Broccoli; and light, +quick surface crops, such as Spinach, to serve as substitutes for +fallows. The cropping of the kitchen garden should be, as far as +possible, so ordered that plants of the same natural families never +immediately succeed one another; and, above all things, it is important +to shift from place to place, year after year, the Cabbages and the +Potatoes, because these are the most exhaustive crops we grow. In a ton +of Potatoes there are about twelve pounds of potash, four pounds of +sulphuric acid, four pounds of phosphoric acid, and one pound of +magnesia. We may replace these substances by abundant manuring, and we +are bound to say that the best rotation will not obviate the necessity +for manuring; but even then it is well to crop the plot with Peas, +Spinach, Lettuce, and other plants that occupy it for a comparatively +brief space of time, and necessitate much digging and stirring; for +these mechanical agencies combine with the manure in preparing the plot +to grow Potatoes again much better than if the land were kept to this +crop only from year to year. If we could mark out a plot of ground into +four parts, we should devote one plot to permanent crops—such as +Asparagus, Sea Kale, and Rhubarb—and on the other three keep the crops +revolving in some such order as this: No. 1, Potatoes, Celery, Leek, +Carrot, Parsnip, Beet, &c. No. 2, Peas, Beans, Onions, Summer Spinach, +&c., followed by Turnips for winter use, Cabbage for spring use, and +Winter Spinach. No. 3, Brassicas, including Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, +Kale, &c. In the following year the original No. 1 would be cropped as +No. 2, and No. 2 as No. 3. In the third season corresponding changes +would be made, constituting a three-course system. The cultivator must +use discretion in cropping vacant ground. As an example it will be +obvious that land cleared of Early Potatoes will be very suitable for +planting Strawberries. Another point is worth attention: Peas sown on +the lines where Celery has been grown will thrive without any +preparation beyond levelling the ground and drawing the necessary +drills. This is a West of England custom, and it answers exceedingly +well.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a> +<a name="THE_CHEMISTRY_OF_GARDEN_CROPS" id="THE_CHEMISTRY_OF_GARDEN_CROPS"></a> +THE CHEMISTRY OF GARDEN CROPS</h2> + +<p>A Consideration of the chemistry of the crops that engage attention in +this country will afford an explanation of one great difference between +farming and gardening. And this difference should be kept in mind by all +classes of cultivators as the basis of operations in tillage, cropping, +and the order and character of rotations. The first thing to discover in +the cropping of a farm is the kind of vegetation for which the land is +best adapted to insure, in a run of seasons, fairly profitable results. +If the soil is unfit for cereals, then it is sheer folly to sow any more +corn than may be needful for convenience, as, for example, to supply +straw for thatching and litter, and oats for horses, to save cost of +carriage, &c. On large farms that are far removed from markets it is +often necessary to risk a few crops that the land is ill fitted for, in +order to satisfy the requirements of the homestead, and to save the +outlay of money and the inconvenience of hauling from distant markets. +But everywhere the cropping must be adapted to the soil and the climate +as nearly as possible, both to simplify operations and enlarge to the +utmost the chances of success. In the cropping of a garden this plain +procedure cannot be followed. We are compelled certainly to consider +what the soil and climate will especially favour amongst garden crops, +but, notwithstanding this, the gardener must grow whatever the household +requires. He may have to grow Peas on a hot shallow sand; and Potatoes +and Carrots on a cold clay; and Asparagus on a shallow bed of pebbles +and potsherds. To the gardener the chemistry of crops is a matter of +great importance, because he cannot restrict his operations to such +crops as the land is particularly adapted for, but must endeavour to +make the land <a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>capable of carrying more or less of all the vegetables +and fruits that find a place in the catalogue of domestic wants. That he +must fail at certain points is inevitable; nevertheless his aim will be, +and must be, of a somewhat universal kind, and a clear idea of the +relations of plants to the soil in which they grow will be of constant +and incalculable value to him.</p> + +<p>We are bound to say at the outset that a complete essay on the chemistry +of vegetation is not our purpose. We are anxious to convey some useful +information, and to kindle sufficient interest to induce those who have +hitherto given but slight attention to this question to inquire further, +with a view to get far beyond the point at which we shall have to quit +the subject.</p> + +<p>Plants consist of two classes of constituents—the Inorganic, which may +be called the foundation; and the Organic, which may be considered the +superstructure. With the former of these we are principally concerned +here. A plant must derive from the soil certain proportions of silica, +lime, sulphur, phosphates, alkalies, and other mineral constituents, or +it cannot exist at all; but, given these, the manufacture of fibre, +starch, gum, sugar, and other organic products depends on the action of +light, heat, atmospheric air, and moisture, for the organic products +have to be created by chemical (or vital) action within the structure, +or, as we sometimes say, the tissues of the plant itself. To a very +great extent the agencies that conduce to the elaboration of organic +products are beyond our control (though not entirely so), whereas we can +directly, and to a considerable degree, provide the plant with the +minerals it more particularly requires; first, by choosing the ground +for it, and next by tilling and manuring in a suitable manner. A clay +soil, in which, in addition to the predominating alumina, there is a +fair proportion of lime, may be regarded as the most fertile for all +purposes; but we have few such in Britain, our clays being mostly of an +obdurate texture, retentive of moisture, and requiring much cultivation, +and containing, moreover, salts of iron in proportions and forms almost +poisonous to plants. But there are profound resources in most clays, so +that if it is difficult to tame them, it is also difficult to exhaust +them. Hence a clay that has been well cultivated through several +generations will generally produce a fair return for whatever crop may +be put upon it. Limestone soils are usually very porous and deficient of +clay, and therefore have no sustaining power. Many of our great tracts +of mountain limestone are mere sheep-walks, and would be comparatively +worthless except for the lime that may be <a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>obtained by burning. On the +other hand, chalk, which is a more recent form of carbonate of lime, is +often highly productive, more especially where, through long +cultivation, it has been much broken up, and has become loamy through +accumulation of humus. Between the oldest limestone and the latest chalk +there are many intermediate kinds of calcareous soils, and they are +mostly good, owing to their richness in phosphates, the products of the +marine organisms of which these rocks in great part, and in some cases +wholly, consist. For the growth of cereals these calcareous soils need a +certain proportion of silica, and where they have this we see some of +the finest crops of Wheat, Trifolium, Peas and Beans in these islands. +If we could mix some of our obdurate clays with our barren limestones, +the two comparatively worthless staples would probably prove remarkably +fertile. Although this is impossible, a consideration of the chemistry +of the imaginary mixture may be useful, more especially to the gardener, +who can in a small way accomplish many things that are impracticable on +a great scale. Sandy soils are characterised by excess of silica, and +deficiency of alumina, phosphates and potash. Here the mechanical +texture is as serious a matter as it is in the case of clay. The sand is +too loose as the clay is too pasty, and it may be that we have to +prevent the estate from being blown away. It is especially worthy of +observation, however, that sandy soils are the most readily amenable of +any to the operation of tillage. If we cannot take much out of them, we +can put any amount into them, and it is always necessary to calculate +where the process of enrichment is to stop. It is not less worthy of +observation that sandy soils can be rendered capable of producing almost +every kind of crop, save cereals and pulse, and even these can be +secured where there is some basis of peat or loam or clay with the sand. +The parks and gardens of Paris, Versailles, and Haarlem are on deep +sands that drift before the wind when left exposed for any length of +time with no crop upon them; and not only do we see the finest of +Potatoes and the most nutritious of herbage produced on these soils, but +good Cauliflowers, Peas, Beans, Onions, fruits, and big trees of sound +timber.</p> + +<p>Garden soils usually consist of loam of some kind, the consequence of +long cultivation. Natural loams are the result of the decay and +admixture of various earths, and they are mostly of a mellow texture, +easily worked and highly productive. They are, as a rule, the best of +all soils, and their goodness is in part due to the fact that they +contain a little of everything, with no great predominance of any one +<a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a>particular earth. Cultivation also produces loam. On a clay land we +find a top crust of clayey loam, and on a lime or chalk land a top crust +of calcareous loam. Where cultivation has been long pursued the staple +is broken and manures are put on, and the roots of plants assist in +disintegration and decomposition. Thus there is accumulation of humus +and a decomposition of the rock proceeding together, and a loam of some +sort is the result. Hence the necessity of caution in respect of deep +trenching, for if we bury the top soil and put in its place a crude +material that has not before seen daylight, we may lose ten years in +profitable cropping, because we must now begin to tame a savage soil +that we have been at great pains to bring up, to cover a stratum of a +good material prepared for us by the combined operations of Nature and +Art during, perhaps, several centuries. But deep and good garden soils +may be safely trenched and freely knocked about, because not only does +the process favour the deep rooting of the plants, but it favours also +that disintegration which is one of the causes of fertility. Every +pebble is capable of imparting to the soil a solution—infinitesimal, +perhaps, but not the less real—of silica, or lime, or potash, or +phosphates, or perhaps of all these; but it must be exposed to light and +air and moisture to enable it to part with a portion of its substance, +and thus it is that mechanical tillage is of the first importance in all +agricultural and horticultural operations.</p> + +<p>The principal inorganic or mineral constituents of plants are potash, +soda, lime, iron, phosphorus, sulphur, chlorine, and silica. Clays and +loams are generally rich in potash, sulphur, and phosphates, but +deficient in soluble silica and lime. Limestone and chalk are usually +rich in lime and phosphates, but deficient in humus, silica, sulphur, +and alkalies. Sandy soils are rich in silica, but are generally poor in +respect of phosphates and alkalies. Therefore, on a clay or loam, +farmyard manure is invaluable, because it contains ingredients that all +crops appreciate, and also because it is helpful in breaking up the +texture of the soil. The occasional application of lime also is +important for its almost magical effect on garden soil that has been +liberally manured and heavily cropped for a long term of years. +Calcareous soils are greatly benefited by a free application to them of +manure from the stable and cow-byre; but as a rule it would be like +carrying coals to Newcastle to dress these soils with lime. Clay may be +put on with advantage; and nothing benefits a hot chalky soil more than +a good dose of mud from ponds and ditches, which supplies at once humus, +alumina, and silicates, and gives ‘staple’ to <a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>the soil, while +preventing it also from ‘burning.’ In the manuring of sandy soils great +care is requisite, because of their absorbing power. In the bulb-growing +districts of Holland, manure from cowsheds is worth an enormous price +for digging into loose sand for a crop of Potatoes, to be followed by +bulbs. Sandy soils are generally deficient in phosphates and alkalies; +hence it will on such soils be frequently found that kainit (a crude +form of potash) and superphosphate of lime will conjointly produce the +best results, more especially in raising Potatoes, Onions, and Carrots, +which are particularly well adapted for sandy soils. Probably one of the +best fertilisers is genuine farmyard manure from stall-fed cattle, for +it contains phosphates, alkalies, and silicates in available forms. For +similar reasons Peruvian Guano is often useful on such soils. Artificial +manure should be selected with a view to correct the deficiencies of the +soil, and to satisfy the requirements of the crops to be grown on it.</p> + +<p>While we have thus dealt principally with the Inorganic or mineral +constituents of plants, and the way in which the deficiencies of the +soil in respect of any of them may be supplied by artificial +applications, we must not ignore the other class of constituents, the +Organic. These are supplied almost entirely from the atmosphere itself, +though, to a limited extent, the presence in the soil of humus or +vegetable matter contributes also. Yet this latter, as seen in the case +of land heavily dressed with farmyard or stable manure, vegetable +refuse, &c., exercises important functions in other directions. Not only +are mineral constituents, in forms available for assimilation, supplied, +but soils so treated derive peculiar advantages as regards their +mechanical state and improved physical conditions, chiefly in respect of +retention of moisture, warmth, &c. Thus, sandy soils, which are very +apt, through poverty in humus, to lose their moisture readily and to +‘burn,’ are rendered more retentive of moisture and fertilising +constituents by the use of farmyard manure, &c., and have more ‘staple’ +or substance given to them, while heavy, tenacious clays are opened out, +lightened, and rendered more amenable to the influences of drainage, +aeration, &c., and so become less cold and inactive.</p> + +<p>For the present purpose the principal garden crops may be grouped in two +classes, in accordance with their main characteristics and the +predominance of certain of their mineral elements. The figures given on +the following page show the average percentage proportions of the +several minerals in the ashes of the different plants.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>In Class I. Phosphates and Potash predominate. This class consists of +the less succulent plants, and includes the following: The Pea: +containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, thirty-six; potash, +forty. Bean: phosphates, thirty; potash, forty-four. Potato (tubers +only): phosphates, nineteen; potash, fifty-nine; soda, two; lime, two; +sulphuric acid, six. Parsnip: phosphates, eighteen; potash, thirty-six; +lime, eleven; salt, five. Carrot: phosphates, twelve; potash, +thirty-six; soda, thirteen; sulphuric acid, six. Jerusalem Artichoke: +phosphates, sixteen; potash, sixty-five.</p> + +<p>In Class II. Sulphur, Lime and Soda Salts are predominant. This class +consists of the more succulent plants, and includes the following: +Cabbage: containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, sixteen; +potash, forty-eight; soda, four; lime, fifteen; sulphuric acid, eight. +Turnip: phosphates, thirteen; potash, thirty-nine; soda, five; lime, +ten; sulphuric acid, fourteen. Beet: phosphates, fourteen; potash, +forty-nine; soda, nineteen; lime, six; sulphuric acid, five.</p> + +<p>As a matter of course, Lentils and other kinds of pulse agree more or +less with Peas and Beans in the predominance of phosphates and potash. +So, again, all the Brassicas, whether Kales, Cauliflower, or whatever +else, agree nearly with the Cabbage in the prominent presence of lime +and sulphur; ingredients which fully account for the offensive odour of +these vegetables when in a state of decay. Fruits as a rule are highly +charged with alkalies, and are rarely deficient in phosphates; moreover, +stone-fruits require lime, for they have to make bone as well as flesh +when they produce a crop. As regards the alkalies, plants appear capable +of substituting soda for potash under some circumstances, but it would +not be prudent for the cultivator to assume that the cheaper alkali +might take the place of the more costly one as a mineral agent, for +Nature is stern and constant in her ways, and it can hardly be supposed +that a plant in which potash normally predominates can attain to +perfection in a soil deficient in potash, however well supplied it may +be with soda. The cheaper alkali in combination as salt (chloride of +sodium) may, however, be usually employed in aid of quick-growing green +crops; and more or less with tap-roots and Brassicas. Salt, too, is very +useful in a dry season by reason of its power of attracting and +retaining moisture. As regards Potatoes, it is worthy of observation +that they contain but a trace of silica, and yet they generally thrive +on sand, and in many instances crops grown on sand are free from disease +and of high quality, although the weight may not be great. The +mechanical texture of the soil has much to do with this; <a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>and when that +is aided by a supply of potash and phosphates, whether from farmyard +manure or artificials, sandy soils become highly productive of Potatoes +of the very finest quality. On the other hand, Potatoes also grow well +on limestone and chalk, and yet there is but little lime in them. Here, +again, mechanical texture explains the case in part, and it is further +explained by the sufficiency of potash and phosphates, as also of +magnesia, which enters in a special manner into the mineral constitution +of this root.</p> + +<p>Thus far we have not even mentioned nitrogen, or its common form of +salts of ammonia; nor have we mentioned carbon, or its very familiar +form of carbonic acid. These are important elements of plant growth; and +they account for the efficacy of manures derived directly from the +animal kingdom, as, for example, the droppings of animals, including +guano, which consisted originally of the droppings of sea-birds. Some of +the nitrogen in these substances, however, is of an evanescent +character, and rapidly flies away in the form of carbonate of ammonia; +hence, a heap of farmyard manure, left for several years, loses much of +its value as manure, and guano should be kept in bulk as long as +possible, and protected from the atmosphere, or its ammonia will largely +disappear. One difficulty experienced by chemists and others in +preparing artificial manures is that of ‘fixing’ the needful ammonia, so +that it may be kept from being dissipated in the atmosphere, and at the +same time be always in a state in which it can be appropriated by the +plant. In all good manures, however, there is a certain proportion of it +in combination, and in many instances the percentage of nitrogen is made +the test of the value of a manure.</p> + +<p>The importance of humus—the black earthy substance resulting from the +decay of vegetation—in a soil is that it contains in an assimilable +form many of the ingredients essential to plant life. Humus when it +decomposes gives off carbonic acid, which breaks up the mineral +substances in the soil and renders them available as plant food. When +vegetable refuse is burned, the nitrogen—one of the costliest +constituents—is dissipated and lost. But by burying the refuse the soil +gets back a proportion of the organic nitrogen it surrendered and +something over in the way of soluble phosphatic and potassic salts; and +as this organic nitrogen assumes ultimately the form of nitric acid, it +can be assimilated by the growing plant, to the great benefit of +whatever crop may occupy the ground.</p> + +<p>The practical conclusion is, that in the treatment of the soil a skilful +gardener will endeavour to promote its fertility by affording <a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>the +natural influences of rain, frost and sun full opportunity of liberating +the constituents that are locked up in the staple; by restoring in the +form of refuse as much as possible of what the soil has parted with in +vegetation; and by the addition of such fertilising agents as are +adapted to rectify the natural deficiencies of the soil. Thus, instead +of following a process of exhaustion, the resources of the garden may be +annually augmented.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a> +<a name="ARTIFICIAL_MANURES_AND_THEIR_APPLICATION_TO_GARDEN_CROPS" id="ARTIFICIAL_MANURES_AND_THEIR_APPLICATION_TO_GARDEN_CROPS"> +</a>ARTIFICIAL MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION TO GARDEN CROPS</h2> + +<p>Plants, like animals, require food for their sustenance and development, +and when this is administered in insufficient quantities, or unsuitable +foods are supplied, they remain small, starved, and unhealthy.</p> + +<p>The chemical elements composing the natural food of ordinary crops are +ten in number, viz.—carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, +phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and iron. These are obtained +from the soil and air, and unless all of them are available plants will +not grow. The absence of even one of them is as disastrous as the want +of all, and a deficiency of one cannot be made up by an excess of +another; for example, if the soil is deficient in potassium the crop +suffers and cannot be improved by adding iron or magnesium. All the +food-elements are found in adequate quantities in practically all soils +and the surrounding air, except three—nitrogen, potassium, and +phosphorus. These are often present in reduced amount, or in a state +unsuited to plants; in such cases the deficiency must be made up before +remunerative healthy crops can be grown, and it is with this express +object that manures are added to the soil.</p> + +<p>One of the best known substances employed in this way is farmyard +manure, which is indirectly derived from plants and contains all the +elements needed for the growth of crops. It is, however, of very +variable composition and rarely, or never, contains these elements in +the most suitable proportions, and its value can always be greatly +improved by supplementing its action with one or other of the so-called +artificial manures or fertilisers. Although it is strongly advisable to +add farmyard manure or vegetable composts to the soil of all gardens now +and again, in order to keep the texture of the soil in a satisfactory +condition, excellent crops can be grown by the use of artificial +fertilisers alone. To obtain the best results from these some experience +is of course necessary, but the following <a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a>details regarding the nature +and application of the commoner and more useful kinds should prove a +serviceable guide in the majority of cases.</p> + +<p>Artificial manures may be divided into three classes:—</p> + +<p>1. The Nitrogenous class, of which nitrate of soda and sulphate of +ammonia are examples.</p> + +<p>2. The Phosphatic class, such as superphosphate, basic slag, and steamed +bone flour.</p> + +<p>3. The Potash class, including kainit and sulphate of potash. The +several examples of each class contain only one of the three important +plant food-elements, and as a single element can only be of use when the +others are present in the soil, it is generally advisable to apply one +from each class, either separately or mixed, in order to insure that the +crop is supplied with nitrogen, phosphates, and potash.</p> + +<p><b>Nitrogenous manures</b> specially stimulate the growth of the foliage, +stems, and roots of plants, and are therefore of the greatest benefit to +Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, Beet, Celery, Asparagus, Rhubarb, all the +Cabbage tribe, and leafy crops generally.</p> + +<p><i>Nitrate of soda</i> supplies the single plant food-element, nitrogen, and +the soda for all practical purposes may be disregarded. It dissolves +very easily in water and is taken up immediately by growing plants, its +effect being plainly seen a few days after application. As this +artificial readily drains away from uncropped land it should only be +administered to growing plants. It is best applied in spring and summer +and in small quantities; for example, at the rate of one pound per +square rod, repeated at intervals of two or three weeks, rather than in +a single large dose. Nitrate of soda must not be mixed with +superphosphate, but it may be added to basic slag and the potash +manures.</p> + +<p><i>Sulphate of ammonia</i> is another nitrogenous fertiliser, similar in its +effects to nitrate of soda, but slower in action since its nitrogen must +undergo a change into nitrate before it is available for plants. It is +held by the soil, and can therefore be applied earlier in spring than +nitrate of soda without fear of loss. The continued use of this manure, +however, is liable to make the soil sour, and consequently it should +only be employed on ground containing lime, or to which lime has been +added. Never mix sulphate of ammonia with basic slag or with lime, but +it may be mixed with superphosphate and the potash manures.</p> + +<p><b>Phosphatic manures</b> have the opposite effect to the nitrogenous +fertilisers, checking rampant growth and encouraging <a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>the early +formation of flowers, fruit, and seeds. They are comparatively +inexpensive and should be liberally applied to all soils for all crops. +<i>Superphosphate</i> is an acid manure and best suited for use on soils +containing lime. <i>Basic slag</i> is a better material for ground deficient +in lime, or where ‘club-root’ is prevalent. It is less soluble and +therefore slower in action than superphosphate. Both these fertilisers +should be dug into the soil some time before the crop is planted or seed +sown—superphosphate at the rate of two to three pounds per square rod; +basic slag in larger amount, five to six pounds per square rod. +Superphosphate may also be employed as a top-dressing and worked into +the surface around growing plants with the hoe. <i>Steamed bone meal</i> or +<i>flour</i> is another useful phosphatic fertiliser, valuable on the lighter +classes of soil.</p> + +<p><b>Potash manures</b> are of benefit to plants in all stages of growth. They +are particularly valuable to Potatoes, leguminous crops, Carrots, +Parsnips, Turnips, and Beet. Like the phosphatic manures they should be +worked into the soil before seeds are sown or plants are put out. +<i>Kainit</i> is best applied in autumn, for it contains a considerable +amount of common salt and magnesium compounds which are sometimes +deleterious and best washed away in the drainage water during winter. It +should be dug in at the rate of about three pounds per square rod. +<i>Sulphate of potash</i> is three or four times as rich in potash as kainit, +and is correspondingly more expensive; apply in spring and summer, a +little in advance of sowing or planting, at the rate of about one pound +per square rod.</p> + +<p><b>Lime</b>.—- A word or two must be said about lime, which is a natural +constituent of all soils. In many instances there is sufficient for the +needs of most plants, but where lime is deficient in quantity it must be +added before healthy crops can be raised. Old gardens to which dung has +been freely applied annually require a liberal dressing of lime every +few years, or the ground becomes sour and incapable of growing good +crops of any kind. To insure the proper action of whatever manures are +used and to secure healthy crops, an application of slaked quicklime, at +the rate of fourteen to twenty pounds per square rod, is strongly +recommended. As a remedy against ‘clubbing’ or ‘finger-and-toe’ disease +of the Cabbage tribe of plants it is indispensable; it also neutralises +the baneful acidity of the land, and opens up stiff soils, making them +more easily tilled, more readily penetrated by the air, and warmer by +the better drainage of water through them.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>The following suggestions for the manuring of the different crops +mentioned will be found effective. It is, however, not intended that +they should be slavishly followed, for useful substitutions may be made +in the formulæ given, if the nature of the various fertilisers is +understood and an intelligent grasp is obtained of the principles of +manuring enunciated in this and the preceding chapter.</p> + +<p>In place of nitrate of soda, a similar quantity of sulphate of ammonia +may be used.</p> + +<p>Instead of superphosphate, the following may be advantageously employed: +phosphatic guano, or mixtures of basic slag and superphosphate, or bone +meal and superphosphate; or basic slag may be applied alone on land +deficient in lime.</p> + +<p>Four pounds of kainit may also take the place of one pound of sulphate +of potash in the suggested mixtures mentioned below.</p> + +<p>Where dung is recommended, twenty to twenty-five loads per acre is +meant; larger quantities are frequently applied, but these are +uneconomical and much less efficient than more moderate amounts +supplemented with artificial fertilisers.</p> + +<p>All the manures should be worked into the soil before sowing or planting +out, except the nitrate of soda, which is best applied separately to the +growing plants, preferably in small doses at intervals of two to four +weeks.</p> + +<p><i>In all cases the quantities of artificials named are intended for use +on one square rod or pole of ground.</i></p> + +<p>PEAS AND BEANS.—These leguminous plants are able to obtain all the +nitrogen they need from the air. They should, however, be amply supplied +with potash and phosphates, a good dressing being:—</p> + +<p> +2-3/4 to 3-1/2 lb. superphosphate<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5.5em;">3/4 lb. sulphate of potash</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>DWARF BEANS are sometimes benefited by the addition of 1/2-lb. to 1 lb. +of nitrate of soda.</p> + +<p>ASPARAGUS.</p> + +<p> +A dressing of dung<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">2 lb. nitrate of soda</span><br /> +3-1/2 to 4 lb. superphosphate<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">3 lb kainit</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The kainit contains a considerable amount of salt, which is of value to +this crop.</p> + +<p>BEET.—For a fine crop a moderate amount of well-decayed dung applied in +autumn is almost essential, as well as 3 to 4 lb. of superphosphate per +square rod in spring. On land previously <a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>dressed with dung for a former +crop, the following may be used, especially on the lighter class of +soils:—</p> + +<p> +1-1/2 lb. nitrate of soda when the plants are well<br /> +up, and a similar amount a fortnight<br /> +after singling<br /> +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate<br /> +4 lb. kainit<br /> +</p> + +<p>BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER.</p> + +<p> +<i>With dung</i>.<br /> +2 to 3 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +2 to 3 lb. superphosphate<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +<br /> +<i>Without dung</i>.<br /> +4 to 5 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +</p> + +<p>CABBAGE, KALE, AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—These Brassicas require +considerable quantities of nitrogen and phosphates. For spring Cabbage +planted in autumn, land well dunged for the previous crop gives good +results with the addition of the artificials mentioned below: for the +autumn crop, dung should be applied before planting out in the early +part of the year.</p> + +<p> +<i>With dung</i>.<br /> +2 to 3 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +<br /> +<i>Without dung.</i><br /> +4 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +5 to 6 lb. superphosphat<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +</p> + +<p>CARROT AND PARSNIP.—A good dressing of dung applied to the previous +crop is a valuable preparation where Carrots and Parsnips are to be +grown. In addition, one of the following mixtures should be used:—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">(1)</span><br /> +3/4 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">(2)</span><br /> +<br /> +3/4 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +2 lb. superphosphate<br /> +1 to 2 lb. basic slag<br /> +3 lb. kainit<br /> +</p> + + +<p>CELERY requires the use of dung more than almost any other crop, and it +is little affected by artificial manures, except phosphates, which may +be given in the form of superphosphate at the rate of 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 lb +per square rod.</p> + +<p>LETTUCE.</p> + +<p> +<i>With dung</i>.<br /> +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate<br /> +1/2 to 1 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +<br /> +<i>Without dung.</i><br /> +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate<br /> +1 to 1-1/2 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +1 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +</p> + +<p>ONIONS never succeed without an ample supply of potash. This crop should +therefore have farmyard dung, or the special potash fertilisers in +adequate quantity.</p> + +<p> +<i>With dung.</i><br /> +3/4 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +<br /> +<i>Without dung.</i><br /> +1-1/2 to 2-1/2 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +5 lb. superphosphate<br /> +1 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +</p> + +<p><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>LEEKS require the same fertilisers as Onions, but will need little or +no nitrate if good dung is used.</p> + +<p>POTATO.—For good yield, high quality, and freedom from disease, +Potatoes are dependent upon a good supply of potash. They do best when +supplied with a moderate amount of farmyard manure, supplemented by +suitable artificials, but can be grown on some soils with artificials +alone.</p> + +<p> +<i>With dung</i>.<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of ammonia<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">3 lb. superphosphate</span><br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +<br /> +<i>Without dung</i>.<br /> +1-1/2 lb. sulphate of ammonia<br /> +3-1/2 lb. superphosphate<br /> +1 to 1-1/2 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +</p> + +<p>Instead of superphosphate, a mixture of this fertiliser with an equal +amount of bone meal or basic slag may be used, and either 4 lb. of +kainit and 1 lb. of muriate of potash instead of 1 lb. of sulphate of +potash.</p> + +<p>RHUBARB.—An annual dressing of dung is beneficial, together with 6 lb. +of basic slag, 1 lb. of sulphate of potash, and 4 lb. of nitrate of +soda, half the nitrate being applied when growth commences and the +remainder a fortnight later.</p> + +<p>SPINACH.</p> + +<p> +<i>With dung</i>.<br /> +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate<br /> +2 to 3 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +<br /> +<i>Without dung</i><br /> +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate<br /> +1 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +3 to 4 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +</p> + +<p>TOMATOES need large supplies of potash and phosphates to induce stocky +growth and abundance of flowers and fruit. Nitrogenous manures should be +withheld until the flowering stage, for they stimulate the production of +rank succulent stems and leaves which are specially liable to attacks of +fungus pests. After the fruit is set the application of small doses of +nitrate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia, as advised below, greatly +assists the swelling of the crop. The following mixtures worked into the +soil will be found beneficial for Tomatoes:—</p> + +<p> +5 to 6 lb. superphosphate 7 to 8 lb. basic slag<br /> +1 lb. sulphate of potash <i>or</i> 1 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +</p> + +<p>Nitrate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia, at the rate of 1-1/2 to 2 lb. +per square rod, may be given with advantage as soon as the fruit is set.</p> + +<p>TURNIP AND SWEDE.—For the development of fine roots a liberal supply of +phosphates is essential.</p> + +<p> +<i>With dung</i>.<br /> +1 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +3 to 4 lb. superphosphate<br /> +3/4 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +<br /> +<i>Without dung</i><br /> +2 lb. nitrate of soda<br /> +4 to 5 lb. superphosphate<br /> +1 lb. sulphate of potash<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a> +<a name="THE_CULTURE_OF_FLOWERS_FROM_SEEDS" id="THE_CULTURE_OF_FLOWERS_FROM_SEEDS"></a> +THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS FROM SEEDS</h2> + +<p>Whether the modern demand for flowers has created the supply, or the +supply has found an appreciative public, we need not stay to discuss. +The fact remains that the last four or five decades have witnessed a +phenomenal extension in the use of flowers by all classes of the +community, for the decoration of the house no less than for beautifying +the garden. Primarily, this advance of refinement in the popular taste +is traceable to the skill and enthusiastic devotion of the florists who +have supported in all their integrity the true canons of floral +perfection, and whose labours will continue to be imperative for +maintaining the standards of quality. By their severe rules of criticism +the florists further the ends of floriculture subjectively, and by the +actual results of their labours they render objective aid, their finest +flowers serving not only as types, but as the actual stud for +perpetuating each race. Hence the decline of floriculture would imply +the deterioration of flowers, and the prosperity of floriculture +involves progress not only in those subjects which lie within the +florists’ domain, but of many others to which they have not devoted +special attention. Yet the acknowledgment must be made that, brilliant +as their triumphs have been, the methods they practised have in some +instances entailed very severe penalties. Continuous propagation for +many generations, under artificial conditions, so debilitated the +constitution of Hollyhocks, Verbenas, and some other subjects, that the +plants became victims of diseases which at one time threatened their +existence. To save them from annihilation it was necessary to desert the +worn path of propagation, and raise plants possessing the initial vigour +of <a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>seedlings. In stamina these seedlings proved eminently satisfactory, +although in other respects they were at first sadly disappointing. It +then became clear that before show flowers could be obtained from +seedlings judgment and skill must be devoted to the art of saving seed. +This was necessarily a work of time, demanding great patience and rare +scientific knowledge. The task was undertaken with enthusiasm in many +directions, and the results have more than justified this labour of +love. Formerly, the universal mode of perpetuating named Hollyhocks was +by the troublesome process of cuttings, or by grafting buds on roots of +seedlings in houses heated to tropical temperature. In many places it +was the custom to lift the old plants, pot them, and keep them through +the winter in pits. All this was found requisite to insure fine flowers. +While the burden of the work was thus rendered heavy, the constitution +of the plant became enfeebled, and at one time the fear was entertained +that its extinction was at hand. But the new system has preserved the +Hollyhock, and at the same time afforded a striking example of the +principle that seed saved scientifically is found to reproduce the +varieties it was taken from. Seedling Hollyhocks now give double flowers +of the finest quality; and the seedling plants are less liable to +disease. So with the Verbena. From suitable seed plants can be raised +that will produce the most resplendent flowers, and instead of +propagating a stock to keep over winter, to be stricken with mildew and +cost no end of care, only to become diseased at last, a pinch of seed is +sown in January or February, and soon there is a stock of healthy plants +possessing the vigour peculiar to seedlings. These, being bedded out at +a proper time, flower far more freely than plants from cuttings, and +produce trusses twice the size.</p> + +<p>To illustrate the change of method still further we may instance the +Cineraria. Formerly this was a troublesome plant to grow, because it was +considered necessary to propagate named varieties by divisions and +suckers. The restricted system was reflected in limited cultivation. Few +were willing to venture on a task known to be hedged about with +difficulties. By degrees it was discovered that the finest Cinerarias +might be secured by simply sowing seed, and giving the plants the usual +cultivation of tender annuals. This has brought the Cineraria within the +reach of thousands who would not attempt to grow it under the old +system, and the consequent gain to society is immense.</p> + +<p>What has been done with the Cineraria has its parallel in quite a number +of the most elegant decorative flowers. Brilliant results have <a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>been +achieved with Begonias, Calceolarias, Cyclamens, Gloxinias, Primulas, +and Schizanthus. It has also ceased to be needful to keep such large +stocks of bedding and other plants through the winter, for Ageratums, +Lobelias, and Pansies have proved amenable to the new treatment, and +very much of the accustomed labour in striking and potting cuttings, as +well as the expense of glass, fuel, and the frequent purchase of +high-priced plants, have been rendered unnecessary. Even among the +flowers which are properly designated annuals, new and delightful +variations have been obtained from original types. Of these we have +examples in Aster, Godetia, Larkspur, Mignonette, Phlox Drummondii, +Poppy, Stock, Sweet Pea, and many others. In some instances the increase +in the size of the flowers is remarkable, and in others the development +of new tints will surprise those who are not familiar with the labours +of modern hybridisers.</p> + +<p>Thus a revolution has been accomplished in the economy and complexion of +the English Flower Garden, a revolution which has reduced and simplified +the gardener’s labours, augmented the number and enhanced the beauty of +many flowers, effected a marked saving in the cost of garden pleasures, +and brought the culture of a large number of the most attractive +subjects within the means of those who had neither the facilities nor +the knowledge requisite for pursuing the florist’s methods. There appear +to be no limits to further progress. All that we can do is to experiment +and gather knowledge, and those who love gardening may assist in +extending the area of this new and cheap system of producing some of the +most elegant garden flowers in one season from seed alone.</p> + +<p>The time and the method of sowing flower seeds must in each case be +regulated by considerations as to their nature. Seeds of tender plants +are usually sown in pots or pans and placed on a moderate hot-bed or in +a propagating house early in spring, and in this case the plants have +greenhouse cultivation until the time arrives for hardening them off +preparatory to final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be +treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for +their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks, plants that +differ immensely in habit and constitution, may all be sown in February, +and put side by side in the same warm pit or vinery, or even in the +warmest corner of any greenhouse, and the very same treatment will suit +them equally well. The soil should be principally loam and sand, with a +little old thoroughly well-rotted manure from a hot-bed or compost heap; +and <a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>light, air, and moisture must be regulated with a view to insure a +free and vigorous growth from the first, with the least possible amount +of artificial heat. In some cases, however, the sowing should be +deferred to March or April, and the result will be far more satisfactory +than the growth made under the stimulus of artificial heat earlier in +the season. But in every case the plants must have sufficient time; for +although the rapid system has been developed, the constitution of the +plants remains unchanged, and those which have heretofore been classed +as biennials and perennials need a long season when treated as annuals.</p> + +<p>A considerable proportion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed +by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as +an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame and some +packets of seed, and the month of February or March has arrived. The +pans and pots are made ready with sweet sandy compost, and the seeds are +sown and labelled, and the pans and pots are packed together in the +frame on a bed of clean coal ashes, or some slates, or tiles, or bricks +laid on the soil, to promote warmth and cleanliness and to prevent the +intrusion of worms among the seeds. By simple management almost as quick +a growth of seeds can be insured in this frame as with the aid of a +hot-bed, and the secret consists in careful storage of the heat of the +sun. Lay over the seed-pans sheets of glass to prevent evaporation, and +let the sun shine full upon them. Be careful as to moisture: they must +never be wet, never dry, and the water must not be slopped about +carelessly. It is a good rule to immerse the pots or pans in a vessel +containing soft water, slightly tepid. When the seedlings begin to +appear, give a little air and lay sheets of paper tenderly over them +during the hour or two at midday when the sun may be shining brightly. +But keep them from the first as ‘hard’ as possible with plenty of light +and air, always taking care that they are neither roasted, nor blown +away by the cruel east wind, nor nipped at night by a killing frost. A +few old mats or light loppings of trees laid over the frame from sundown +to sunrise will be sufficient protection at those trying times; and when +spring frosts are making havoc with the tender sprouting leaf and bloom +in every part of the garden those little things will be safe under their +glass cover, and slight experience will show that a common frame may +become a miniature hot-house in the hands of one who has learned to make +failure the stepping-stone to success. We must not omit to mention that +the owner of such a garden, or, indeed, of any garden, will be prudent +to take advantage of the <a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>first fine weather to sow in the open ground +whatever flower or vegetable seeds should be sown at that season. The +frame garden can be reserved, if needful, for wet weather, because it is +of the utmost importance to sow a good breadth of seeds in the open +ground as early as possible in the month of March.</p> + +<p>Turning from this small example to the great garden, it will be obvious +that to those who always have heavy work on hand the advantages of this +transference, of labour from the old system to the new are immense. Both +to employers and gardeners the advantages are of importance; the +propagation of bedders by cuttings, and of florists’ flowers by suckers +and divisions and layers and pipings, will not, of course, be completely +abolished; but for all ordinary purposes the ends in view may be +accomplished more simply, more expeditiously, and more cheaply than +heretofore. The pits hitherto appropriated to bedders, and the like, may +to a great extent be liberated, and there will be no difficulty in +finding for them more profitable occupants. While Mushrooms and early +Potatoes and winter salads are in request, it will be a gain to many a +garden to have reduced the summer display of flowers to a simple system +of seed-sowing, at an expense that may be described as merely nominal.</p> + +<p>Before dealing specifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable to +say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy, +Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials.</p> + +<p><b>Annuals</b>.—Although the most popular kinds of annuals are largely +employed in the embellishment of flower gardens, they are adapted for +many uses to which they may with advantage be more frequently applied. A +few misconceptions prevail as to the relative merits of this class of +plants. By some they are regarded as ‘weedy’ and ‘short-lived.’ Their +very cheapness, and the relatively small amount of skill required in +their cultivation, tend in some degree to detract from their value in +public estimation. We will not be so rash as to say that a more extended +use of annuals would render unnecessary the cultivation of what are +especially known as ‘bedding plants’; but there is something to be said +on behalf of annuals that may be worth the consideration of all who are +interested in the development of freshness, variety, and richness of +colour in the flower garden. In the first place, these plants come into +flower within a comparatively short period of time from the sowing of +the seed, and it is a matter of considerable importance that a large +proportion of the best continue beautiful until the very close of the +season. Some<a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a>times in the autumn Geraniums become literally washed out, +while Tom Thumb Nasturtiums may be ablaze with colour, and continue so +when the Geraniums are housed for the winter. A large number of showy +and long-lasting annuals are adapted for employment in bedding, and by a +little management those that do not last the season out may be replaced +by others for succession; thus affording the advantage of increased +variety, and making no demand for glass and fuel to keep them through +the winter as do the ordinary bedders. We have had great and glorious +sheets of Candytufts, snow-white, rich crimson, and bright carmine; and +when they began to wane they were removed, and the ground planted with +Asters, and very soon there was another display, so fresh and bright and +various that no greenhouse bedders could surpass them. Great hungry +banks, that would have swallowed many pounds’ worth of greenhouse plants +to cover them, have been made delightfully gay at a very trifling cost +by sowing upon them Tropæolums, Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, <i>Bartonia aurea</i>, +the dwarf varieties of <i>Lupinus</i>, Virginian Stock, <i>Collinsia bicolor</i>, +Convolvuluses, Candytufts, Eschscholtzias, Poppies, and Clarkias; and +damp, half-shady borders have been delicately tessellated by means of +Forget-me-nots, Venus’ Looking-glass, Pansies, the Rosy Oxalis, +Nemophilas, Godetias, Silenes, Coreopsis, and Scabious.</p> + +<p>For the more important positions in the flower garden we have choice of +many really sumptuous subjects, such as Stocks, Asters, Balsams, +Drummond’s Phlox, Lobelias, the lovely new varieties of Antirrhinums, +Dianthus, Portulacas, Zinnias, tall Stock-flowered Larkspurs, Nemesias, +and many other flowers equally beautiful and lasting. We do not hope by +these brief remarks to change the prevailing fashion—indeed, we have no +particular wish that way—but we feel bound to observe that it is +sufficient for the beauty of the garden that the greenhouse bedders +should be confined to the parterre proper. It is waste of space and +opportunity to place them in the borders everywhere, as is too commonly +done. In sunny borders, annual and perennial herbaceous plants are far +more appropriate.</p> + +<p>Some time since, while walking over a large garden, we left the rich +colouring of the geometric beds to discover what should make the +wondrous glow of crimson on a border far away; and to our surprise it +proved to be a clump of the Indian Pink, which had been sown as an +annual with other annuals, and was there shining in the midst of a +constellation of the loveliest flowers of all forms and <a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>hues, the +result simply of sowing a few packets of seed. No one can despise the +Wallflower in the spring, and the heavenly-blue flowers of <i>Nemophila +insignis</i> in early summer will tempt many a one to walk in the garden +who would care little for sheets of scarlet and yellow that in full +sunshine make the eyes ache to look upon them. It must be remembered, +too, that among annuals are found many most richly-scented flowers; +others, like the everlastings and the grasses, are valuable to dry for +winter use for employment in bouquets, and garlands in Christmas +decorations; and the Sweet Peas, and <i>Tropæolum canariense,</i> and +climbing Convolvulus may be employed to cover arbours and trellises with +the best effect possible, and may even be allowed to hang in festoons +about the sunny parts of rockeries, or trail over the ground to make +genuine bedding effects. Another important matter must have mention +here, and we commend it to the consideration of gardeners who are +severely taxed to secure extensive displays of flowers during the summer +season. It is that a number of plants of highly ornamental character, +usually treated as perennials, are really more effective, besides +occasioning less labour to produce them, when cultivated as annuals. The +Dianthus and its several splendid varieties do better as annuals than +biennials. For all the ordinary purposes of display, Lobelias may be as +well grown from seed as from cuttings, and in every garden will be found +proof of the small amount of care they require; for we find stray, +self-sown plants in pots of Geraniums and other places, and these, if +left alone, become perfect bushes, and are a mass of flowers all the +summer. Many annuals commonly reputed to be tender and usually raised in +heat do very well indeed on a more rough and ready method. In proof of +this, sow <i>Perilla nankinensis</i> in the first week of May where it is +required, and in the month of July you will probably be convinced that +Perilla does not always need careful nursing in heated houses through +the spring. Even the really tender Castor-oil Plant will thrive if sown +in the open ground the first week in May. Having no check, as plants put +out from pots must have, the growth will be regular and sturdy, and +attain magnificent dimensions.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the most effective way of growing annuals is to arrange them in +harmonious blendings or contrasts of colour. The wide choice of +varieties available admits of an almost endless number of combinations, +and the following tables, classified according to colour, will no doubt +afford some serviceable suggestions, although these by no means exhaust +the list. The height is indicated in feet and Climbers as ‘Cl.’</p> + +<p><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a></p> +<h3>WHITE, AND CREAM SHADES.</h3> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Colour and height of border plants"> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>TALL</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>coronarium,</td><td align='left'>Princess May</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>coronarium,</td><td align='left'>Double white</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Cornflower,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Helichrysum,</td><td align='left'>Silver Globe</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Larkspur,</td><td align='left'>Stock-flowered,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Lavatera</td><td align='left'>alba</td><td align='left'>splendens</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Giant Double,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy</td><td align='left'>Giant Single,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Scabious,</td><td align='left'>Snowball</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>carinatum</td><td align='left'>album</td><td align='right'>2-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>Dunnetti,</td><td align='left'>Double white</td><td align='right'>2-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Tall,</td><td align='left'>Pearl</td><td align='right'>Cl.</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>MEDIUM.</b></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia</td><td align='left'>elegans,</td><td align='left'>Snowball</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus</td><td align='left'>Hartwegii,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Malope,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>White Swan</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Shirley,</td><td align='left'>Double White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Calendula</td><td align='left'>pluvialis</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>inodorum</td><td align='left'>plenissimum</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia,</td><td align='left'>Double White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Gilia</td><td align='left'>nivalis</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Gypsophila</td><td align='left'>elegans</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Hawkweed,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Hawkweed</td><td align='left'>Silver</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Jacobea,</td><td align='left'>Double,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet Sultan,</td><td align='left'>Giant</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>coronarium,</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Dwarf</td><td align='left'>double</td><td align='left'>white</td><td align='right'>1-1/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>DWARF</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Acroclinium,</td><td align='left'>Single White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Candytuft,</td><td align='left'>Improved</td><td align='left'>White Spiral</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf white</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia</td><td align='left'>Double</td><td align='left'>dwarf white</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Convolvulus</td><td align='left'>minor,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Eschscholtzia</td><td align='left'>crocea</td><td align='left'>alba</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Duchess</td><td align='left'>of Albany</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Layia</td><td align='left'>elegans</td><td align='left'>alba</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Linaria,</td><td align='left'>Snow-white</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf,</td><td align='left'>Pearl</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Platystemon</td><td align='left'>californicus</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Viscaria,</td><td align='left'>Pure White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Alyssum,</td><td align='left'>Sweet</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>inodorum</td><td align='left'>plenis-simum,</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Bridal Robe</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Collinsia</td><td align='left'>candidissima </td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Swan River</td><td align='left'>Daisy,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Swan River</td><td align='left'>Daisy</td><td align='left'>Star White</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Venus’</td><td align='left'>Looking-glass,</td><td align='left'>White</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Venus’</td><td align='left'>Navel-wort</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Virginian Stock,</td><td align='left'>White </td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Candytuft,</td><td align='left'>Little Prince</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nemophila</td><td align='left'>insignis</td><td align='left'>alba</td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Alyssum</td><td align='left'>minimum</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf White</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/3</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p class='center'><b>YELLOW AND ORANGE SHADES</b></p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Colour and height of border plants"> +<tr><td align='left'><b>TALL</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower,</td><td align='left'>Giant Yellow</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower</td><td align='left'>Primrose</td><td align='left'>Perfection</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower</td><td align='left'>Miniature</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower</td><td align='left'>Stella</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower</td><td align='left'>Primrose Stella</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>coronarium,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>Double yellow</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum,</td><td align='left'>Golden Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coreopsis</td><td align='left'>tinctoria</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Helichrysum,</td><td align='left'>Golden Globe</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf Double</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower</td><td align='left'>Single Dwarf</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>Dunnettii,</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>Double Golden</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marigold,</td><td align='left'>African</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Ivy-leaved</td><td align='left'>Golden Gem</td><td align='right'>Cl.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Tall,</td><td align='left'>Yellow</td><td align='right'>Cl.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><b>MEDIUM</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hibiscus</td><td align='left'>africanus</td><td align='left'>major</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bartonia</td><td align='left'>aurea</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum,</td><td align='left'>Star</td><td align='left'>varieties</td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coreopsis</td><td align='left'>Drummondii</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coreopsis</td><td align='left'>coronata</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Erysimum,</td><td align='left'>Orange Gem</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hawkweed,</td><td align='left'>Yellow</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Leptosyne</td><td align='left'>Stillmani</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus</td><td align='left'>Menziesii</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet Sultan,</td><td align='left'>Yellow</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><b>DWARF</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Calendula,</td><td align='left'>Orange King</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Calendula</td><td align='left'>Lemon Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cheiranthus</td><td align='left'>Allionii</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>coronarium,</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>coronarium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf double yellow</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dimorphotheca</td><td align='left'>aurantiaca</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eschscholtzia</td><td align='left'>californica</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Escholtzia,</td><td align='left'>crocea</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Escholtzia,</td><td align='left'>crocea</td><td align='left'>fl. pl.</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eschscholtzia,</td><td align='left'>Mikado</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Layia</td><td align='left'>elegans</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf yellow</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf,</td><td align='left'>Cloth of Gold</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf,</td><td align='left'>Yellow</td><td align='left'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tagetes</td><td align='left'>signata</td><td align='left'>pumila</td><td align='right'>1<a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tagetes</td><td align='left'>Mandarin</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Linaria,</td><td align='left'>Golden Gem</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marigold,</td><td align='left'>Miniature</td><td align='left'>orange</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marigold</td><td align='left'>Miniature</td><td align='left'>orange</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eschscholtzia,</td><td align='left'>Miniature Primrose</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Limnanthes</td><td align='left'>Douglasii</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sanvitalia</td><td align='left'>procumbens,</td><td align='left'>Single</td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sanvitalia</td><td align='left'>Double</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Leptosiphon</td><td align='left'>aureus</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/4</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h3>BLUE, MAUVE, AND PURPLE SHADES.</h3> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Colour and height"> +<tr><td align='left'><b>TALL</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cornflower,</td><td align='left'>Blue</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Larkspur,</td><td align='left'>Stock-flowered,</td><td align='left'>Blue</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Larkspur,</td><td align='left'>Stock-flowered,</td><td align='left'>Pale Mauve</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus,</td><td align='left'>Tall dark blue</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Giant Double, Mauve</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Scabious,</td><td align='left'>Mauve</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><b>MEDIUM</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Double Mauve</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus</td><td align='left'>Hartwegii,</td><td align='left'>Azure Blue</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Mauve Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet Sultan,</td><td align='left'>Purple</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Xeranthemum</td><td align='left'>superbissimum</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Xeranthemum</td><td align='left'>imperiale</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Anchusa,</td><td align='left'>Annual Blue</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gilia</td><td align='left'>capitata</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gilia</td><td align='left'>tricolour</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jacobea,</td><td align='left'>Double, Purple</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nigella,</td><td align='left'>Miss Jekyll</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Phacelia</td><td align='left'>tanacetifolia</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Salvia,</td><td align='left'>Blue Beard</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet Sultan,</td><td align='left'>Giant Delicate Mauve</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet Sultan,</td><td align='left'>Giant Mauve</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><b>DWARF</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Asperula</td><td align='left'>azurea</td><td align='left'>setosa</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Candytuft,</td><td align='left'>Lilac</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Convolvulus</td><td align='left'>minor,</td><td align='left'>Dark blue</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Convolvulus</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Sky-blue</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cornflower,</td><td align='left'>King of</td><td align='left'>Blue Bottles</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eutoca</td><td align='left'>viscida</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Linaria,</td><td align='left'>Mauve</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf</td><td align='left'>rich blue</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mathiola</td><td align='left'>bicornis</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Phacelia</td><td align='left'>congesta</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Viscaria,</td><td align='left'>Bright Blue</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Whitlavia</td><td align='left'>gloxinioides</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cornflower,</td><td align='left'>Victoria,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf blue</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Leptosiphon</td><td align='left'>androsaceus</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nigella,</td><td align='left'>Double dwarf</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Phacelia</td><td align='left'>campanularia</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Swan</td><td align='left'>River Daisy,</td><td align='left'>Blue</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Swan</td><td align='left'>River Daisy,</td><td align='left'>Star Blue</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Campanula</td><td align='left'>attica</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nemophila</td><td align='left'>insignis</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h3>PINK AND ROSE SHADES</h3> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Colour and height"> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>TALL</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Cornflower,</td><td align='left'>Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Larkspur,</td><td align='left'>Stock-flowered,</td><td align='left'>Rosy Scarlet</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Lavatera</td><td align='left'>rosea</td><td align='left'>splendens</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus</td><td align='left'>mutabilis,</td><td align='left'>Cream and Pink</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Giant Double,</td><td align='left'>Chamois-rose</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Scabious,</td><td align='left'>Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Salmon Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>Cl.</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Rosy Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>Cl.</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>MEDIUM</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia elegans,</td><td align='left'>Double Salmon</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia elegans,</td><td align='left'>Double Delicate Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Double Rose</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Jacobea,</td><td align='left'>Single,</td><td align='left'>Bright Rose</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Pink Gem</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Cardinal,</td><td align='left'>Salmon-pink</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Shirley,</td><td align='left'>Single Rose-pink</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Shirley,</td><td align='left'>Double Pink</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Saponaria</td><td align='left'>Vaccaria,</td><td align='left'>Pink</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia,</td><td align='left'>Double Rose</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Hawkweed,</td><td align='left'>Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Jacobea,</td><td align='left'>Double,</td><td align='left'>Rose</td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene Armeria,</td><td align='left'>Rose</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Statice</td><td align='left'>Suworowi</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>DWARF</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Acroclinium,</td><td align='left'>Double rose</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Acrolinium,</td><td align='left'>Single rose</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Convolvulus minor,</td><td align='left'>Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Eschscholtzia,</td><td align='left'>Frilled Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Escholtzia,</td><td align='left'>Rosy Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Escholtzia,</td><td align='left'>Rose cardinal</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Gypsophila elegans,</td><td align='left'>Delicate pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Lupinus,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf</td><td align='left'>delicate pink</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf,</td><td align='left'>Salmon Pink</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf,</td><td align='left'>cæruleum roseum</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Double</td><td align='left'>Salmon Pink</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Double</td><td align='left'>Delicate Pink</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Bonetti</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Pseudo-Atocion</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1<a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Statice</td><td align='left'>spicata</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Viscaria,</td><td align='left'>Delicate Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Cornflower,</td><td align='left'>Victoria,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf rose</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Satin-rose</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Abronia</td><td align='left'>umbellata</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Candytuft,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf Pink</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Saponaria</td><td align='left'>calabrica</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Double Dwarf</td><td align='left'>Delicate Pink</td><td align='right'>1/3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Double Dwarf</td><td align='left'>Brilliant Rose</td><td align='right'>1/3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Silene,</td><td align='left'>Bonetti,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf Pink</td><td align='right'>1/3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Leptosiphon</td><td align='left'>roseus</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/4</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h3>CRIMSON AND SCARLET SHADES,</h3> +<h4>including Carmine and Ruby.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Colour and height"> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>TALL</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Coreopsis</td><td align='left'>atrosanguinea</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Helichrysum,</td><td align='left'>Fireball</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Giant Double,</td><td align='left'>Scarlet</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Polygonum,</td><td align='left'>Ruby Gem</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Malope,</td><td align='left'>Red</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Tall,</td><td align='left'>Improved Lucifer</td><td align='right'>Cl.</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Tall,</td><td align='left'>Black Prince</td><td align='right'>Cl.</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>MEDIUM</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>atrococcineum</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia elegans,</td><td align='left'>Salmon scarlet</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Clarkia elegans,</td><td align='left'>Firefly</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Double Crimson</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Poppy,</td><td align='left'>Cardinal</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Cacalia</td><td align='left'>coccinea</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Coreopsis</td><td align='left'>cardaminigolia</td><td align='left'>Dwarf</td><td align='right'>1-1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'><b>DWARF</b>.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Candytuft,</td><td align='left'>Improved Carmine</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Candytuft,</td><td align='left'>Dark crimson</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Centranthus</td><td align='left'>macrosiphon</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Crimson King</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Scarlet Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Lady Albemarle</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Linum</td><td align='left'>grandifiorum</td><td align='left'>rubrum</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf,</td><td align='left'>Scarlet Queen</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf,</td><td align='left'>King Theodore</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Naturtium,</td><td align='left'>King of</td><td align='left'>Tom Thumbs</td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Viscaria</td><td align='left'>cardinalis</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Collomia</td><td align='left'>coccinea</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Coreopsis,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf Crimson</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Eschscholtzia,</td><td align='left'>Ruby King</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Afterglow</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Godetia,</td><td align='left'>Lady Albemarle,</td><td align='left'>dwarf</td><td align='right'>3/4</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Saponaria,</td><td align='left'>Scarlet Queen</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Virginian Stock,</td><td align='left'>Crimson King</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Viscaria,</td><td align='left'>Dwarf Carmine</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1/2</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Yet one other method of growing annuals calls for special mention. It is +not fully recognised that a number of subjects, usually associated only +with beds and borders, may also be flowered with the greatest ease under +glass in winter and early spring. Those who have not hitherto attempted +the culture of annuals in this way will be delighted with the charming +effects produced. Among the subjects most suitable for the purpose are +Alonsoa; the Star and Dunnettii varieties of Annual Chrysanthemum; +<i>Clarkia elegans; </i> Dimorphotheca; <i>Gypsophila elegans</i>; Linaria; +<i>Nemesia Suttoni</i>; Nicotiana, Miniature White and <i>N. affinis</i>; Phlox, +Purity, one of the most lovely pot plants for the conservatory and of +especial value for decorative work at Easter; Salpiglossis; and the +pretty blue, Cineraria-like, Swan River Daisy. From the fact that these +annuals are of the hardy or half-hardy types it will be readily +understood that no great amount of heat is required to bring them to +maturity; indeed, the more hardy the treatment the better for their +well-doing. Seed should be sown during August or September in pots or +pans placed in a cool frame, the seedlings <a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>being pricked off into other +pots as soon as they have attained a suitable size. As colder weather +approaches, transfer to the greenhouse or conservatory, and provided the +night temperature is not allowed to fall below 45° all should be well. +During the day give the plants the maximum of air whenever weather +permits.</p> + +<p><b>Hardy Annuals.</b>—The seeds should be sown on a carefully prepared +surface from which large stones have been removed, and the clods must be +broken, but the soil should not be made so smooth as to become pasty +under rain. Sow thinly, in rows spaced to agree with the height of the +plant, cover with a very slight coat of fine dry earth—the smallest +seeds needing but a mere dusting to cover them—and, from the first, +keep the plants thinned sufficiently to prevent overcrowding. +Spring-sown annuals are worthy of a better soil than they usually have +allotted them, and also of more careful treatment. It is not wise to sow +earlier than March or later than the middle of April. In the +after-culture the most important matter is to keep the clumps well +thinned. Not only will the bloom of crowded plants be comparatively poor +and brief, but by early and bold thinning the plants will become so +robust, and cover such large spaces of ground with their ample leafage +and well-developed flowers, as really to astonish people who think they +know all about annuals, and who may have ventured after much +ill-treatment to designate them ‘fugacious and weedy.’ Although the +sowing of hardy annuals direct on to beds and borders where the plants +are wanted is economical in labour and avoids the check which +transplanting occasions, the practice of raising annuals on specially +prepared seed-beds and pricking out the plants to blooming quarters is +sometimes followed. The soil into which they are transferred for +flowering should be deeply dug, thoroughly broken up, and, if at all +poor, liberally manured. It is an excellent plan also to sow hardy +annuals outdoors in autumn, but it is needless to say more on this +subject here, as it is dealt with fully at page 313.</p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy Annuals.</b>—Give these as long a period of growth as possible +to insure a vigorous plant before the season of flowering. The best time +for sowing is February, or the beginning of March; for although some +kinds may with advantage be sown earlier, it is safer, as a rule, to +wait for sunshine and full daylight, so as to keep up a steady and +continuous growth. The soil for the seed-pans should be rich and fine. +Good loam, improved by the addition of thoroughly decayed manure and +leaf-mould, with sufficient sand to render the texture porous, will suit +all kinds of annuals that are sown in pans under <a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>glass. Sow the seed +thinly, cover very slightly, and lay squares of glass over to keep a +uniform degree of moisture without the necessity of watering. Should +watering become necessary, take care to avoid washing the seeds out. If +the pans or pots are stood in a vessel containing several inches depth +of water until sufficient has been absorbed, there will be no occasion +to pour water on the surface. A gentle heat is to be preferred; when +germination is too rapid it tends to the production of weak plants. As +soon as the young plants appear, remove the glasses and place the +seed-pans in the fullest light, where air can be given without danger to +them. A dry east wind blowing fiercely over them will prove a blast of +death. If they have no air at all, they will be puny, rickety things, +scarcely worth planting out. Choice varieties should be carefully +pricked out into pans and pots as soon as large enough; this will +promote a fine, stocky growth and a splendid development of flowers. +Take care not to plant out until the weather is favourable, for any +great check will undo all your work, and make starvelings of your +nurslings. If you cannot command heat for half-hardy annuals, sow in the +first week in April, put the pans in a frame facing south, and the seeds +will soon grow and do well. If that is too much trouble, sow in the open +border early in May, making the border rich and friable, that they may +have a good chance from the first.</p> + +<p><b>Tender Annuals.</b>—These require the same general treatment as advised +for half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat +than is necessary for annuals that are to be planted out. It is also +requisite to be in good time in pricking out the seedlings, for if they +get much drawn they cannot make robust pot plants. A light, rich, +perfectly sweet soil, containing a fair proportion of sharp sand, is +necessary to insure plants worth having. It is also important to get +them into separate small pots as soon as possible, and to shift them on +to larger and larger pots, until they have sufficient pot room for +flowering, after which shift no more. As soon as these pots are filled +with roots, give very weak manure water constantly until the plants are +in flower, and then discontinue it, using instead pure soft water only.</p> + +<p><b>Hardy Biennials and Perennials.</b>—These are often sown in pans or +boxes, and are pricked off when large enough into other pans or pots +before they are transferred to beds or borders. The system has certain +advantages in insuring safety from vermin and proper attention, for it +is an unfortunate fact that too many cultivators consider it needless to +thin or transplant sowings made in beds or <a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>borders. The plants are +frequently allowed to struggle for existence, and the result is feeble +attenuated specimens which, with trifling care and attention, might have +become robust and capable of producing a bountiful bloom in their +season. Still, it should be clearly understood that all the hardy +biennials and perennials may be grown to perfection by sowing on a +suitable seed-bed in the open ground, protecting the spot from marauders +of all kinds, and by early and fearless thinning or transplanting. As a +rule, we advocate one shift before placing the plants in final +positions.</p> + + +<p><b>ABUTILON</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy greenhouse perennial</b></p> + +<p>Handsome plants, two feet or more in height, can be produced from seed +and flowered in a single season. They are useful for training to +greenhouse walls, and they may also be transferred to open borders for +the summer. When employed for the latter purpose, the plants should be +lifted and put into pots about the end of August, after there has been a +penetrating shower. In the absence of rain a soaking of water on the +previous day will prevent the soil from falling away from the roots.</p> + +<p>February and March are the right months for sowing seed, and for the +pots any fairly light compost will answer. Prick off the seedlings when +about an inch high, putting the plants in down to the seed-leaves. They +must never be allowed to suffer for want of water, nor should they be +starved in small pots. The growth had better not be hurried at any +stage; the plants will then develop into shapely specimens with very +little care.</p> + + +<p><b>ACHIMENES</b></p> + +<p><b>Greenhouse or stove perennials</b></p> + +<p>Although Achimenes can be propagated by division of the tubers, the +simpler method of raising a supply from seed has become a common +practice. During March or April sow in pots or pans, and while quite +small transfer the seedlings to separate pots. It is important to insure +free drainage, especially as frequent watering is <a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>a necessity while the +plants are in active growth. Achimenes are generally kept in a high +temperature; but they do not really need so much heat as Gloxinias, and +in a warm greenhouse they can be flowered without the least difficulty. +This is one of the finest subjects for growing in hanging-baskets.</p> + + +<p><b>ALONSOA</b></p> + +<p>These popular half-hardy flowers are not only valuable for a summer +display in borders, but they make charming subjects for the conservatory +in the spring months. For blooming outdoors seed may be sown in pans in +March and the plants treated in the manner usual for half-hardy annuals, +or a sowing can be made in the open towards the end of April. Plants for +flowering indoors in April and May should be raised from seed sown in +the preceding August and September. Grow on the seedlings steadily in +pots, but do not force them in any way. In fact, the treatment should be +as nearly hardy as possible, a night temperature of 45° being generally +sufficient to carry them through the winter.</p> + + +<p><b>AMARYLLIS</b></p> + +<p><b>Hippeastrum</b></p> + +<p>The majority of the named varieties are expensive, and a very +considerable saving is effected by raising plants from seed. Thanks to +the skill of the hybridiser, the seedlings not only compare favourably +with flowers grown from costly bulbs, but they have been successful in +winning certificates and awards of merit.</p> + +<p>The germination is so irregular that it is well to put only one seed in +each small pot. The most suitable soil is a mixture of two parts loam +and one of leaf-mould, with sufficient coarse grit to insure free +drainage. The proper temperature is about 65°. After the seedlings are +established follow the treatment advised on page 340.</p> + + +<p><b>ANEMONE</b></p> + +<p><b>The Windflower. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The discovery that it is easy to flower the popular St. Brigid and +similar Anemones from seed in about seven months from the date of +<a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>sowing has given a great impetus to the culture of this plant, +especially as it possesses a high value for decorating vases, in +addition to its usefulness in beds and borders. From seed sown in +February or March the plants should begin to bloom in September or +October of the same year, and continue to flower until the following +June, when it is unprofitable to retain them longer. No coddling of any +kind is necessary. Dig a trench in a sheltered, sunny spot, and fill it +with rich soil freely mingled with decayed cow-manure. If the land +happens to be somewhat tenacious, Anemones will take kindly to it, but +it should be well worked, and it may be needful to add a little fine +sandy compost at the top as a preparation for the seed. The woolly seed +should be rubbed with sand, and the two may be sown together thinly in +lines. As a finish the ground should be lightly beaten with the back of +a spade. Germination is decidedly slow, so that until the seedlings +appear the removal of weeds requires care. The plants should be thinned +until they stand six inches apart. Seed may also be sown in June or July +for plants to flower in the following year, and the results will +probably be even more satisfactory than from the spring sowing.</p> + + +<p><b>ANTIRRHINUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Snapdragon. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>In bygone years Antirrhinums were seldom seen beyond the limits of +old-fashioned cottage gardens. But even then the Snapdragon was a +popular flower, and it was generally perpetuated by subdivision of the +plants. Now, in common with a large number of perennials and biennials, +the Antirrhinum is almost exclusively grown from seed. This altered +method of culture has resulted in a marked advance in the size and +colour of the spikes of bloom, and has also increased the vigour and +floriferous character of the plants. In the process of raising, +selecting and re-selecting the stocks, experts have found it possible to +develop three distinct classes—Tall, Intermediate, and Dwarf—so that +the value of the plant as an ornament in the garden has been advanced +beyond the dreams of a former generation of gardeners. The Tall +varieties attain a height of about three feet; the Intermediates +generally range between twelve and eighteen inches, and the Dwarf or Tom +Thumb section seldom exceeds six inches. All three classes have a +distinct value for different positions in the garden.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>Antirrhinums are not fastidious as to soil and may be relied on to give +satisfaction in almost any spot chosen for them. Still, it must be +admitted that they are conspicuously successful on dry soils and in +sunny positions. This will account for the surprising displays +occasionally seen on old walls and in large wild rockeries, where they +are perfectly at home, apparently indifferent to the starving conditions +in which their lot is cast.</p> + +<p>The fact that the plant possesses such sturdy independence of character +greatly enhances its value and usefulness. Nothing more handsome can be +imagined in a border than the gigantic spikes of the Tall varieties, and +they make a magnificent decoration for vases at a season when flowers +suitable for cutting are much needed. The Intermediate Antirrhinums, +like the Tall class, combine advantages for both bedding purposes and +for cutting, perhaps in a still greater degree. The varieties are so +numerous and charming that an enthusiast has suggested the desirability +of devoting a garden to Antirrhinums alone. Although the Tom Thumb +section is also frequently employed for bedding, these dwarf-growing +varieties are better adapted for ribbon borders, or as an edging to +carriage drives.</p> + +<p>Antirrhinums may be grown as half-hardy annuals or as perennials, but +the former is the simplest course for obtaining plants for summer +bedding. Sow the seeds in pans or boxes from January to March, and prick +off the seedlings as soon as large enough to handle. Grow on steadily +and gradually harden off in readiness for planting out after the +Wallflowers and other spring bedders have been removed. After flowering +it will save trouble to consign the plants to the waste heap and again +raise a sufficient supply to fill their places in the following spring. +When grown as perennials, seed should be sown in July or August. Leave +the plants in the seed-bed until ready for transfer to final positions. +These will stand the winter and come into flower earlier than plants +from spring-sown seed.</p> + + +<p><b>AQUILEGIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Columbine. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Since the introduction of the long-spurred hybrid varieties the +Aquilegia has become exceedingly popular. Like the Nasturtium, it is +particularly accommodating in character, and will thrive on poor soil +and amid surroundings altogether uncongenial to many other subjects. +Several of the fine varieties which have been <a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>recently introduced are, +however, worthy of a place in the best of borders. Sow in February or +early in March in a frame, and plant out when strong enough, or sow in +June in an open border. If the season is favourable, those sown early +may bloom the first year; the remainder will flower in the year +following.</p> + + +<p><b>ASPARAGUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Greenhouse foliage varieties. Half-hardy perennials</b></p> + +<p>The finely laciniated foliage of <i>A. plumosus</i> is greatly prized for +bouquets, and the plant invariably commands attention as a decorative +subject on the table or in the conservatory. <i>A. decumbens</i> has long +tremulous branches of elegant dark green foliage, and the plant is +admirably adapted for hanging-baskets. <i>A. Sprengeri</i> is distinct from +both, but is also very ornamental in baskets. Sow all three varieties in +pans during February or March, in heat; prick off the seedlings +immediately they are large enough to handle, and grow on in gentle heat +until the beginning of June, when cool-house treatment will suit them.</p> + + +<p><b>ASTER</b></p> + +<p><b>Callistephus sinensis. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>In high summer so many flowers are available that no difficulty arises +in making a varied display. The real trouble is in discarding, +especially for a limited area. But when summer begins to merge into +autumn the choice is not so extensive, and among the annuals which then +adorn the garden Asters are indispensable. This superb flower has been +developed into many forms, and each class affords a wide range of +magnificent colours. Yet it must be admitted that in the majority of +gardens Asters are seldom grown in sufficient numbers, and it is not +unusual to find the flowers small in size and poor in colour. In many +cases we believe the reason to be that the culture of Asters is often +commenced too late. Preparations should therefore be made in good time, +and apart from providing the requisite number of plants for filling beds +and borders, and for supplying cut blooms, others should be raised for +flowering in pots. For indoor decoration full use is rarely ever made of +Asters, although <a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>the colours include many delightful shades which may +be employed with most telling effect.</p> + +<p>To secure a long-continued display of bloom there must be several +sowings, and the earliest will need the aid of artificial heat. One +secret of successful culture is to give no check to the plant from its +first appearance until the time of flowering; and a suitable bed must be +prepared, whether the seed be sown on the spot or plants are transferred +from other quarters.</p> + +<p>Asters do not readily accommodate themselves to violent alternations of +heat and cold, particularly in the early stage of growth, and therefore +the most sheltered position in the garden should be chosen for them; but +avoid a hedge or shrubbery, where strong growing trees rob the soil of +its virtue. Begin the preparation of beds during the previous autumn by +deep digging, and incorporate a liberal dressing of well-rotted manure +as the work proceeds. On light and shallow soils it will do more harm +than good to bring the raw subsoil to the surface, but the subsoil may +with advantage be stirred and loosened by the fork, and if a little +loamy clay can be worked into it the land will be permanently benefited.</p> + +<p>A very stiff soil will, however, present greater difficulties; but if by +free working it can be made sufficiently friable, Asters will revel in +it, and produce flowers of a size and colour that will reward the +cultivator for all his trouble. Throw the ground up roughly in October. +The more it is exposed to the action of wind, snow and frost, the more +thoroughly will the winter disintegrate its particles and render it +fertile. Early in spring give another digging, and then work in a good +supply of decayed manure, together with grit, charcoal, wood ashes, or +other material that will help to render the soil rich and free. Aim at +inducing the roots to go down deep for supplies—there will then be a +cool moist bottom even in dry weather, and these conditions will do much +toward the production of fine stocky plants capable of carrying an +imposing display of flowers.</p> + +<p>For sowings from the end of March to the middle of April prepare a +compost consisting principally of decayed leaf-mould, with sufficient +loam to render it firm, and sharp sand to secure drainage. Either pots +or seed-pans may be used. Place these in a cool greenhouse, or in a +Cucumber or Melon pit, or even on a half-spent hot-bed. Sow thinly; a +thick sowing is very likely to damp off. Just hide the seed with finely +sifted soil, and place sheets of glass at the top to prevent rapid +evaporation. Give no water unless the soil becomes decidedly dry, and +then it is better to immerse the pot or pan for half <a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a>an hour than to +apply water on the surface. When the plants attain the third leaf they +can be pricked off into shallow boxes or round the edges of 3-1/2 inch +pots. From these they either may have another shift singly into small +pots, or may be transferred direct to blooming quarters. A high +temperature is not requisite at any stage of growth, indeed it is +distinctly injurious. From 55° to 65° is the extreme range, and the +happy medium should, if possible, be maintained. Give air on every +suitable occasion, and as the time for transferring to the open ground +approaches, endeavour to approximate nearly to the outside temperature. +The plants will then scarcely feel the removal.</p> + +<p>Another and simpler proceeding produces fairly good results, and we +describe it for the benefit of those whose resources may be small, or +who do not care to adopt the more troublesome method. In some spot +shaded from the sun make a heap of stable manure, rather larger than the +light to be placed upon it. Level the top, and cover with four or five +inches of rich soil. Place a frame upon it with the light a trifle open. +When the thermometer indicates 60°, draw drills at six inches apart; sow +the seed, and cover with a little sifted soil. The light had better not +be quite closed, in case of a rise of temperature. As the plants thrive, +gradually give more air, until, in April, the showers may be allowed to +fall directly upon them in the daytime. When the Asters are about three +inches high they will be quite ready for the open ground, and a showery +day is favourable to the transfer. After the bed has served its purpose, +the manure will be in capital condition for enriching the garden.</p> + +<p>In the event of there being no frame to spare, drive a stake into each +corner of the bed. Connect the tops of the stakes, about one foot from +the surface of the bed, with four rods securely tied, and upon these +place other rods, over and around which any protecting material at +command may be used. With this simple contrivance it is quite possible +to grow Asters in a satisfactory manner.</p> + +<p>The finest Asters are frequently grown in the open air, entirely without +the aid of artificial heat, and indeed without any special horticultural +appliances. Those who possess the best possible resources will find +additional advantage in resorting also to this mode of culture. It gives +another string to the bow, and prolongs the season of flowering. For +open-air sowings in April make the soil level and fine, and about the +middle of that month draw drills three inches deep. In these place an +inch of finely prepared rich soil, and if it is largely mixed with +vegetable ashes, so much the better.<a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a> The distance between the drills +should be regulated by the variety. For tall-growing Asters twelve to +fifteen inches between the rows will not be too much. Ten inches will +suffice for the dwarfs. Sow the seed thinly and evenly, and cover +carefully with fine soil. Commence early to thin the plants, always +leaving the strongest, and arrange that they finally stand at from eight +to fifteen inches apart according to the sort.</p> + +<p>Keep the ground clean, and before the flowering stage is reached gently +stir the surface, but not deep enough to injure the roots. An occasional +application of weak manure water will be advantageous, but it must not +be allowed to touch the foliage.</p> + +<p>For tall varieties it may be needful to provide support. If so, place a +neat stick on that side of the plant towards which it leans, as this +takes the strain off the tying material, and saves the plant from being +cut or half-strangled. In a dry season, and especially on light soils, +there must be a bountiful supply of soft water, alternated every few +days with the manure water already alluded to. Evening is the best time +to apply it.</p> + +<p>For show purposes rather more room is required than we have stated. Only +about five buds should be matured by each plant, and these, of course, +the finest. To prepare flowers for exhibition is in itself an art, and +each cultivator must be guided by his own resources and experience.</p> + +<p>Asters in pots make excellent decorative subjects. It is only necessary +to lift them carefully from the borders with balls of earth surrounding +the roots, and pot them just before the buds expand, or they may be +potted up while in full flower without flagging.</p> + +<p>The plants are liable to the attacks of aphis, both green and black. +While under glass the pests can be destroyed by fumigation; but in the +open a solution of some good insecticide may be administered with the +syringe at intervals of about three days, until a clearance is effected. +Other foes are the various grubs which attack plants at the collar. On +the first sign of failing vigour, gently remove with a pointed stick the +soil around the plant, and in doing this avoid any needless disturbance +of the roots. Do not be satisfied until the enemy is destroyed.</p> + + +<p><b>AUBRIETIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>In the early months of the year few subjects in the garden present so +gay an appearance as Aubrietias, for with the first approach <a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>of genial +weather the cushion-like plants burst into a mass of delightful blossom. +For spring bedding, edgings, and the rock garden Aubrietias are +indispensable, and they make a particularly effective show when grown in +conjunction with Yellow Alyssum and White Arabis. Aubrietias are easily +grown from seed sown in May and June. The plants are best raised in pans +of light rich soil and may be put out in autumn where required to flower +in the following spring.</p> + + +<p><b>AURICULA</b></p> + +<p><b>Primula Auricula. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Keen is the enthusiasm of the Auricula amateur. The only complaint we +ever heard about the flower is that its most devoted admirer cannot +endow it with perpetual youth and beauty.</p> + +<p>It is well to bear in mind that seed from a worthless strain requires +just as much attention as that which is saved with all a florist’s skill +from prize flowers. Some growers advocate sowing immediately the seed is +ripe, but this intensifies the irregular germination that characterises +seed of all the Primula species. Either February, March, or April may be +chosen, and we give preference to the end of February. Use six-inch +pots, and as there must be no doubt about drainage, nearly half-fill the +pots with crocks, cover with a good layer of rough fibrous loam mingled +with broken charcoal, and on the top a mixture of loam, decayed leaves, +and sharp sand. Press the soil firmly down; sow thinly and regularly, +putting the seeds in about half an inch apart; just cover them with fine +soil, and place the pots in a cool frame or greenhouse, with sheets of +glass over to prevent evaporation. Watering in the ordinary way is apt +to wash out the seeds, and it is therefore advisable to immerse the pots +in a vessel containing water until the soil has become saturated. Wait +patiently for the plants. When they show four or six leaves, prick out +into pans or boxes about two inches apart, and before the seedlings +touch each other transfer to small pots. The surface soil in the pots +may be lightly stirred occasionally to keep it free from moss. The +plants must never be allowed to go dry, but as winter approaches water +should be given more sparingly, and during sharp frosts it may be wise +to withhold it entirely. There really is no need of artificial heat, for +the Auricula is a mountaineer, and can endure both frost and snow. But +we prize its beauty so highly that frames and greenhouses <a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a>are properly +employed for protecting it from wind, heavy rain, soot, dust, and all +the unkind assaults of a lowland atmosphere, to which it is unaccustomed +in a natural state. Still, the plants should be kept as nearly hardy as +possible.</p> + +<p>The Auricula is a slow-growing plant, and although there will probably +be some flowers from seedlings in the second year, their value must not +be judged until the following season. To the trained eye of the florist +the Show Auriculas take precedence over the Alpine section; but for +general usefulness the Alpines hold the first place. They may be +fearlessly put into the open border, and especially the north border, +where, with scarcely any care at all, they will endure the winter, and +freely show their lovely flowers in spring.</p> + + +<p><b>BALSAM</b></p> + +<p><b>Impatiens Balsamina. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>The older methods of growing Balsams prescribed a false system, +comprising disbudding, stopping, and other interferences with the +natural growth of the plant. The rule of pinching back the leader to +promote the growth of side shoots, and removing the flower buds to +increase the size of the plants, was altogether vicious, because the +natural growth is more elegant and effective. The finest flowers are +produced on the main stem, and these are completely sacrificed by +disbudding.</p> + +<p>It is desirable to make two or three sowings of Balsam, say from the +middle of March to the middle of May, the earlier sowings to be put on a +sweet hot-bed, although March sowings will soon germinate in a frame, +and the May sowing may be made in the open ground on a prepared bed. The +soil at every stage should be rich and light, but not rank in any +degree. Prick out the plants from the seed-pans directly the first rough +leaves show, and soon after shift them again to encourage a stout dwarf +habit. A sunny position should be chosen for the bed, in which they may +be planted out about the first week of June, or earlier if the weather +is particularly favourable. Heat, moisture, and a strong light favour a +fine bloom, and, therefore, water must be given whenever dry weather +prevails for any length of time. If kept sturdy while under glass, they +will need no support of any kind, and although they are peculiarly +fleshy in texture, it is seldom they are injured, even by a gale. When +<a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>grown in pots throughout, the chief points are to shift them often in +the early stages, to promote free growth in every reasonable way, and to +cease shifting when they are in pots sufficiently large to sustain the +strength of the plants. Generally speaking, eight-inch pots will suffice +for very fine Balsams, but ten-inch pots may be used for plants from an +early sowing. They will probably not show a flower-bud while increased +pot room is allowed them; but as soon as their roots touch the sides of +the pots the bloom will appear. It is occasionally the practice to lift +plants from beds when pot Balsams are wanted. This method has the +advantage of being the least troublesome, and as the plants need not be +lifted until the flowers show, favourite colours can be chosen.</p> + + +<p><b>BEGONIA, TUBEROUS-ROOTED</b></p> + +<p><b>Begonia hybrida. Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>One of the most remarkable achievements in modern horticulture is the +splendid development of single and double Tuberous-rooted Begonias from +the plant as first introduced from the Andes. Originally the flowers +were small, imperfect in form, and deficient in range of colour. But +experts were quick in apprehending the capabilities of this graceful +plant, and it proved to be unusually amenable to the hybridiser’s +efforts. Now the large symmetrical blossoms of both single and double +flowers challenge attention for beauty of form and an almost endless +variation of tints peculiar to the Tuberous-rooted Begonia. The plants +are conspicuous ornaments of the conservatory and greenhouse for several +months, and experience has proved that they make unique bedders, +enduring unfavourable conditions of weather which are fatal to many of +the older bedding subjects.</p> + +<p>From the best strains of seed it is easy, with a little patience, to +raise a fine stock of plants, possessing the highest decorative +qualities. Under generous treatment the seedlings from a January or +February sowing come into bloom during July and August. The seed should +be sown in well-drained pots containing a good compost at the bottom, +with fine sandy loam on the surface, pressed down. Before sowing +sprinkle the soil with water, and sow the seed evenly, barely covering +it with fine earth. A temperature of about 65° is suitable. Germination +is both slow and irregular, and the plants must be pricked off into pans +or small pots as fast as they become large enough to handle. This +process should be followed up so long as <a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>seedlings appear and require +transferring. They may be shifted on as the growth of the several plants +may require. Begonias need more attention with reference to an even +temperature during this stage than at any other period.</p> + +<p>The merits of Begonias as bedding plants are now recognised in many +gardens, and they deserve to be still more widely grown. It is wise to +defer planting out until June. In the open ground they produce abundant +supplies of flowers for cutting at the end of September and early in +October, when many other flowers are over. The plants should be put out +when they show themselves sufficiently strong, and it is better to be +guided by the plants than by any fixed date. The beds must be freely +enriched with well-rotted manure and decayed vegetable matter; it can +scarcely be overdone, for Begonias are gross feeders.</p> + +<p>The earliest plants to flower will often be retained in the greenhouse, +as they follow in succession the Cinerarias and Calceolarias. Those that +start later may be turned out as they come into bloom, which will +probably be in June. By deferring the planting out until there is a show +of bloom a selection of various shades of colour is possible, and this +will greatly enhance the beauty of the beds. Begonias are hardier than +is generally supposed; they need no protection, and require no heat, +except in the stage of seedlings, when first forming their tubers.</p> + +<p>For autumn decoration Begonias should be taken up from the beds during +September and potted, when they will continue to bloom in the greenhouse +or conservatory for a considerable time, and form a useful addition to +the flowering plants of that period.</p> + +<p>If not required for autumn decoration, let the plants remain out as long +as may be safe; then pot off, and place in the greenhouse. Be careful +not to hasten the drying of the bulbs. When the stems fall Begonias may +be stored for their season of rest, allowing them to remain in the same +pots. They can be put away in a dry cellar, or on the ground, covered up +with sand, in any shed or frame where the bulbs will remain dry and be +protected from frost. Both damp and cold are very injurious to them. The +temperature during their season of rest should be kept as near 50° as +possible. When they show signs of growth in spring they must be put into +small-sized pots, almost on the surface of the soil. As growth increases +shift into larger sizes, inserting the bulb a little deeper each time +until the crown is covered.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a><b>BEGONIA, FIBROUS-ROOTED</b>l</p> + +<p><b>Begonia semperflorens. Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Fibrous-rooted Begonias are exceedingly valuable for either bedding in +summer or greenhouse decoration during the autumn and winter. They +produce a continual succession of flowers, rather small in size, but +very useful for bouquets, and the plants are charming as table +ornaments. The directions for sowing and after-treatment recommended for +the Tuberous-rooted class will be suitable also for the Fibrous-rooted +varieties, except that the latter must always be kept in a growing +state, instead of being dried off at the end of the flowering season. +Sow seed at the end of January or in February, and again at the +beginning of March. Under fair treatment the first batch of plants will +come into flower for bedding out in June.</p> + + +<p><b>CALCEOLARIA, HERBACEOUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Calceolaria hybrida. Greenhouse biennial</b></p> + +<p>The present magnificent race of Herbaceous Calceolarias, both as to +constitution and the beauty of its flowers, is the result of much +cross-fertilisation of the finest types, so that the best strains are +capable of affording ever-new surprise and delight. The superb +collections exhibited in recent years, which have made lasting +impressions on the public by their form and brilliancy of colour, have +invariably been raised from seeds of selected varieties, saved on +scientific principles that insure vigour, variety, and splendour in the +progeny.</p> + +<p>Calceolarias thrive under intelligent cool-house culture, but it must be +clearly understood that in every stage of growth they are quick in +resenting neglect or careless treatment. The work must be carried out +with scrupulous attention, and the result will more than justify the +labour. Extreme conditions of temperature are distinctly injurious, and +the plants are especially susceptible to a parched, dry atmosphere.</p> + +<p>May is early enough to commence operations, and July is the limit for +sowing. As a rule, the June sowing will produce the quickest, strongest, +and most robust plants.</p> + +<p>The soil, whatever its composition, should be rich, firm, and, above +all, porous. Press it well into the pots or pans, and make the <a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>surface +slightly convex and quite smooth. A compost that has been properly +prepared will not need water; but should water become needful, it must +be given by partially submerging the pans. The seed is as fine as snuff, +and requires delicate handling. It is easily lost or blown away, and +therefore it is wise not to open the packet until perfectly ready to +sow. Distribute the seed evenly and sift over it a mere dusting of fine +earth. Place a sheet of glass upon each pot or pan, and the glass must +be either turned or wiped daily. This not only checks rapid evaporation, +but prevents the attacks of vermin. Germination is always slower on an +open than on a close stage. Perhaps the best possible position is a +moist shady part of a vinery, if care be taken when syringing the vines +to prevent the spray from falling upon the seed-pans.</p> + +<p>Under favourable circumstances, from seven to nine days will suffice to +bring the seedlings up in force, and very few will appear afterwards. +When they are through the soil remove the sheet of glass, and give them +prompt attention, or they will rapidly damp off. Immediately the second +leaf appears, tiny as the plants may be and difficult to handle, +commence pricking them off into other pots prepared to receive them, for +it is unsafe to wait until they become strong. Allow about two inches +between the plants. The occupants of each pan may generally be pricked +off in about three operations, and there should be only the shortest +possible intervals between.</p> + +<p>With many subjects it is a safe rule to use the robust seedlings and +throw the weakly ones away. This practice will not do in the case of +Calceolarias, or some of the most charming colours that can grace the +conservatory or greenhouse will be lost. The strongest seedlings +generally produce flowers in which yellow largely predominates, a fact +that can easily be verified by keeping the plants under different +numbers. But it must not be inferred that because the remainder are +somewhat weaker at the outset they will not eventually make robust +plants.</p> + +<p>Freely mix silver sand with the potting mould, and raise the surface +higher in the centre than at the edge of the pot. From the first +appearance of the seedlings shading is of the utmost importance, for +even a brief period of direct sunshine will certainly prove destructive. +Do not allow the plants to become dry for a moment, but give frequent +gentle sprinklings of water, and rain-water is preferable. As the soil +hardens, stir the surface with a pointed stick, not too deep, and give +water a few hours after. About a month of this treatment should find +each plant in the possession of four or five <a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>leaves. Then prepare thumb +pots with small crocks, cover the crocks with clean moss and fill with +rich porous soil. To these transfer the plants with extreme care, +lifting each one with as much soil adhering to the roots as a skilful +hand can make them carry. Place them in a frame, or in the sheltered +part of a greenhouse, quite free from dripping water. Always give air on +suitable days, and on the leeward side of the house.</p> + +<p>Keep a sharp look-out for aphis, to the attacks of which Calceolarias +are peculiarly liable. Fumigation is the best remedy, and it should be +undertaken in the evening; a still atmosphere renders the operation more +certain. Water carefully on the following morning, and shade from the +sun.</p> + +<p>By September the plants should be in large 60-pots, and it is then quite +time to begin the preparation for wintering. Some growers put them in +heat, and are successful, but the heat must be very moderate, and even +then we regard the practice as dangerous. Place the plants near the +glass, and at one end of the house where they will obtain plenty of side +light, as well as light from above. During severe frosts it may be well +to draw them back or remove them to a shelf lower down and towards the +centre of the house, but they must be restored as soon as possible to +the fullest light obtainable, as they have to do all their growth under +glass. The more air that can safely be given, the better, and dispense +with fire-heat if a temperature of 45° to 55° can be maintained without +it.</p> + +<p>When growth commences in spring, which will generally be early in March, +give each plant its final shift into eight-or ten-inch pots. This must +be done before the buds push up, or there will be more foliage than +flowers.</p> + +<p>The following is the compost we advise: one bushel good yellow loam, +half-bushel leaf-soil, one gallon silver sand, a pound of Sutton’s A 1 +Garden Manure, and a pint of soot, well mixed at least ten days before +use. Any sourness in the soil will be fatal to flowering. The compost +must be carefully ‘firmed’ into the pots, but no severe pressure should +be employed, or the roots will not run freely.</p> + +<p>Neglect as to temperature or humidity will have to be paid for in long +joints, green fly, red spider, or in some other way. But there are no +plants of high quality that grow more thriftily if protected from cold +winds and kept perfectly clean. A light airy greenhouse is their proper +place, and they must have ample headroom.</p> + +<p>After the pots are filled with roots, not before, manure water <a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>may be +administered until the flower-heads begin to show colour, when pure soft +water only should be used. About a fortnight in advance of the full +display the branches must be tied to supports. If skilfully managed the +supports will not be visible.</p> + +<p>It may be that a few large specimens are required. If so, shift the most +promising plants into 6-size pots. These large Calceolarias will need +regular supplies of liquid manure until the bloom is well up, and if the +pots are efficiently drained and the plants in a thriving condition, a +rather strong beverage will suit them. For all ordinary purposes, +however, plants may be allowed to flower in eight-or ten-inch pots, and +for these one shift after the winter is sufficient.</p> + +<p><b>New Types of Calceolaria.</b>—There are now available a number of hybrid +half-hardy perennial varieties, of which <i>C. profusa</i> (<i>Clibrani</i>) is +the most popular, that bear the same relation to the Large-flowered +Calceolaria as the Star Cineraria does to the Florist’s Cineraria. In +point of size the blooms produced by these new types are smaller than +those of the Large-flowered section, but the tall graceful sprays are +extremely beautiful and of the greatest decorative value. Except that +seed should be sown earlier (February and March are the proper months), +the plants should receive precisely the same treatment as that already +described for Herbaceous Calceolaria.</p> + + +<p><b>CALCEOLARIA, SHRUBBY</b></p> + +<p><b>Calceolaria rugosa. Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the ease with which cuttings of the Shrubby Calceolaria +can be carried through a severe winter, there is a growing disposition +to obtain the required number of plants from seed sown in February; and +seedlings have the advantage of great variety of colour. A frame or +greenhouse, and the most ordinary treatment, will suffice to insure a +large stock of attractive healthy plants for the embellishment of beds +and borders.</p> + + +<p><b>CAMPANULA and CANTERBURY BELL</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy annual, hardy biennial, and hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Among the numerous and diverse forms in the order Campanulaceæ are many +flowers of great value in the garden, including Single, Double, and Cup +and Saucer strains of the popular Canterbury<a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a> Bell (<i>C. medium</i>). The +impression that some Campanulas are shy growers and require +exceptionally careful treatment may arise from the frail habit of +certain varieties, or from the fact that some of them occasionally fail +to bloom within twelve months from date of sowing. The idea is not worth +a moment’s consideration. In moderately rich, well-drained soil the +finest Campanulas not only prove to be thoroughly hardy, but they are +most graceful in herbaceous borders or beds, and they may also be used +alone in bold clumps with splendid effect. For instance, the handsome +Chimney Campanulas (<i>C. pyramidalis</i> and <i>C. pyramidalis alba</i>) +frequently attain a height of six feet or more, and sturdy spikes +occasionally measure eight and even ten feet from base to tip. Such +specimens are magnificent ornaments in conservatories and corridors, and +cannot fail to arrest attention at the back of herbaceous borders, or +when used as isolated plants on lawns. When grown in pots use a light +rich compost, taking care to insure perfect drainage. The plants must +never be allowed to become dry, as this not only checks growth but +renders them liable to attack by red spider or green fly. Another +distinctive subject for the decoration of the conservatory is <i>C. +grandis</i>, which may be described as a dwarf Chimney Campanula. The +freely branching plants, covered with attractive flowers, also form a +striking group when grown in the open border.</p> + +<p>Altogether different in character is <i>C. persicifolia grandiflora</i>, or +the Peach-leaved Bell-flower as it is sometimes called. This plant is +lighter and more graceful than the Canterbury Bell. It throws up +handsome stems, two feet high, clothed from the ground with lance-like +leaves and elegant bells which quiver in the slightest breeze. An +interesting plant is the Giant Harebell, a dainty flower on a slender +stem, resembling the wild variety in form, but larger, richer in colour, +and a more profuse bloomer. <i>C. glomerata</i> is one of the hardiest plants +that can be grown in any garden, and the large close heads of deep blue +bells have long been familiar in herbaceous borders. For its very fine +glistening, deep blue, erect flowers, <i>C. grandiflora</i> is also a great +favourite.</p> + +<p>Campanulas were formerly propagated by division, but this treatment has +created the impression that they are unworthy to be ranked among the +perennials. From seed, the plants are extremely robust. <i>C. persicifolia +grandiflora</i> resents division, which frequently results in weakened +growth and a tendency, especially in poor or badly drained soil, to +dwindle away. The only satisfactory method <a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a>of growing Campanulas is to +raise plants annually from good strains of seed. If sown in gentle heat +early in the year—February is the usual month—many of the varieties +flower the same season. When they are well started, plenty of light and +air must be admitted. Unless intended for potting they should be planted +out in good soil where they will require no more care than is bestowed +on the borders generally. Seed can also be sown in the open ground from +May to July; transplant in autumn for flowering in the following season. +During hot weather, particularly on light soil, the plants need to be +well watered, but in retentive ground thorough drainage must be insured. +Should signs of debility appear, transplant to rich soil, where they +will soon regain vigour.</p> + +<p>A popular half-hardy Campanula is <i>C. fragilis</i>, of trailing habit. The +starry pale blue flowers are seen to most advantage in hanging-baskets. +The charm of these flowers is wholly lost if they are placed on a stage +in the greenhouse; and they are not entirely satisfactory in a window +where the light is transmitted through the petals, as this robs them of +colour and substance. But hanging in a conservatory with plenty of air +and space their slender drooping stems are very graceful, and the light +reflected from the flowers does full justice to their beauty. Sow in +pans during February or March and pot on as required.</p> + +<p>All the foregoing are perennials, but two little hardy annual Campanulas +are <i>Attica</i> and <i>A. alba</i>, growing about six inches high. They make +useful foreground plants, and are quite at home in rock gardens. Sow in +April on light soil.</p> + +<p><b>The Canterbury Bell</b> has already been alluded to; it is a charming +hardy biennial forming a valuable feature of the mixed border. The large +semi-double blooms of the Cup and Saucer class and the double varieties +are modern introductions which have become extremely popular; the range +of colours now includes the most delicate shades of pink, mauve, and +blue, in addition to pure white. Seed may be sown from April to July. +When the seedlings are large enough transplant them where required for +flowering in the summer of the succeeding year. But Canterbury Bells are +also interesting in the greenhouse during spring; for this work pot them +in October and on to December. So treated, they bloom even more +generously than in the garden. There can be no more beautiful adornment +for a hall or large drawing-room than a well-placed group of the fine +white flowers, backed by a mass of dark-foliaged plants.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a><b>CANNA</b></p> + +<p><b>Indian Shot. Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Cannas have ceased to be regarded simply as sub-tropical foliage plants, +adapted only for the adornment of beds and borders. They have not lost +their merits for this purpose, although in all probability the taller +forms will be less grown than formerly, because the new dwarf varieties, +which maintain a high standard of beauty in the foliage, include a +diversity of rich tints previously unknown, and they possess the +additional merit of producing flowers that have lifted the race into +prominence as brilliant decorative subjects for the garden and the +greenhouse.</p> + +<p>The popular name is descriptive of the seed, which is almost spherical, +black, and so hard that it has been used in the West Indies instead of +shot. Hence it will occasion no surprise that the germs burst through +the strong covering with difficulty, and that sometimes weeks elapse +before the seedlings appear, one or two at a time. To facilitate +germination some growers file the seed, others soak it until the skin +becomes sufficiently soft to permit of the paring away of a small +portion with a sharp knife. In either case caution must be exercised to +avoid injuring the germ. A safer mode of attaining the object is to soak +the seeds in water, placed in a greenhouse or stove, for about +twenty-four hours before sowing. After soaking the seeds it is necessary +to keep the soil constantly moist, or the germs will certainly suffer +injury. The number of seeds sown should be recorded, so that it may be +known when all are up. The first sowing should be made in January, in a +temperature of about 75°, and as fast as the seedlings become ready +transfer singly to small pots. As Cannas are gross feeders they must +have a rich, porous compost, and an occasional dose of liquid manure +will prove beneficial, especially when the pots are full of roots. If +the seedlings from the January sowing are regularly potted on and +properly managed they will begin to flower in June or July. Either the +plants may be turned out into a rich soil, or the pots can be plunged, +and after flowering in the open until late in autumn the plants can be +lifted for another display of bloom in the greenhouse. In warm districts +and in dry, sheltered situations, the roots may be left in the open +ground all the winter under a covering of ashes; but they must be lifted +from a damp, cold soil, and stored in a frame during the winter months. +We have only mentioned January as the month for sowing, but seed may be +put in up to midsummer, or even later, following the routine already +indicated.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a><b>CARNATION</b></p> + +<p><b>Dianthus Caryophyllus fl. pl. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The Carnation belongs to the aristocracy of flowers and has attained the +dignity of an exclusive exhibition. But in addition to their merits as +show flowers, Carnations make conspicuous ornaments in the garden and +the home, and it has been found that seed saved with skill from the +finest varieties will produce plants yielding hundreds of flowers of +which the grower need not feel ashamed. Since the introduction of the +early-flowering class, which can easily be had in bloom within six +months from date of sowing, an immense impetus has been given to the +culture of Carnations from seed, and with judicious management it is not +a difficult matter to insure a succession of these delightful subjects +almost the year through. For the decoration of greenhouses and for +providing cut flowers, seedling Carnations have a special value, which +has only to be known to be universally appreciated. No trouble should be +experienced with high-class seeds, which germinate freely and save much +time and labour in comparison with the more tedious process of +propagation; while an occasional new break may at times reward the +raiser.</p> + +<p>The proverb that what is worth doing is worth doing well is peculiarly +exemplified in the cultivation of Carnations, the difference between the +results of good and bad work being immense. We therefore advise the +preparation of a compost consisting of about three parts of turfy loam, +to one part each of cow-manure and sweet leaf-mould, with a small +addition of fine grit. A compost that has been laid up for a year, +according to the orthodox practice of florists, is very much to be +desired; but it may be prepared off-hand if care be taken to have all +the materials in a sweet, friable state, free from pastiness, and as far +as possible free from vermin. By laying it in a heap, and turning two or +three times, the vermin will be pretty well got rid of. Sow from April +until August in 4-1/2 inch pots, which must be thoroughly drained. The +seed must be very thinly covered, and sheets of glass should be laid +over to check evaporation. Place the pots in a closed frame, or if the +season be genial a sheltered border will suffice. Immediately the plants +are large enough to handle, prick them off into seed-pans, or round the +edge of 48-size pots. Place these in a cold pit or in the greenhouse. +Give shade and water until the plants have formed six or eight leaves, +and then choose a moist day for planting out.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a>To insure flowering plants in the following summer it is necessary to +have them strong and robust before the winter sets in. As the blooming +stems rise they must be carefully tied to tall sticks, stout enough to +carry a cover for the bloom, if the plants are not flowered under glass. +When the buds show they should be thinned, leaving as a rule the top, +third, and fourth buds. The second is often too near the first, and some +will not carry the fourth with vigour. When the petals nearly fill the +calyx, each one must be carefully tied with a thin strip of material a +little more than halfway down, to prevent the calyx from bursting, which +disqualifies the flower for exhibition.</p> + +<p><b>The early-flowering class</b> is extremely valuable for the ease with +which it can be grown. The seedlings offer the advantage of being far +more floriferous than plants that have been propagated by the orthodox +method, and they are quite immune from the disease which often decimates +stocks raised from layers and cuttings. Two strains—Vanguard and +Improved Marguerite—possess these characteristics in a very high +degree. All the usual colours are included, and they not only make a +very imposing display in the borders but are of great value for table +decoration. Within about six months from the time seed is sown an +admirable form of delightfully scented Carnation is at the command of +every gardener, and a succession of these popular flowers is available +long after the perennial varieties have ceased to bloom. Plants from +seed sown in gentle heat in January or February will flower freely in +the autumn of the same year, and if lifted and potted they will continue +in bloom during the winter as ornaments of the greenhouse or +conservatory. From another sowing in autumn there will be a display in +the following spring.</p> + + +<p><b>CELOSIA PLUMOSA</b></p> + +<p><b>Plumed Cockscomb. Greenhouse annual</b></p> + +<p>The conditions which suit a liberally grown Cockscomb will produce long +graceful plumes of <i>Celosia plumosa</i>, but the starving system will not +answer with this plant. Sow in February or March, and by means of a +steady heat, regular attention with water, and a rather moist +atmosphere, the specimens should be grown without a check from beginning +to end. When they reach the final pots an occasional dose of weak manure +water will help them, both in size <a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a>and colour, but it must be +discontinued when the flowers begin to show their beauty. As a rule it +will be found more easy to manage this plant on a moderate-sized hot-bed +than in a greenhouse. Repotting should always be done in time to prevent +the roots from growing through the bottom of the pots.</p> + + +<p><b>CELOSIA CRISTATA—see COCKSCOMB, <i>page</i> 254</b></p> + + +<p><b>CHRYSANTHEMUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy perennial and hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>The tedious method of propagating Begonias, Gloxinias, and Primulas by +cuttings or layers has been replaced by the simpler and more +satisfactory procedure of sowing seeds, which insures all the finest +flowers in far greater variety than were obtained under the obsolete +treatment. A similar revolution is now proceeding in the culture of +Chrysanthemums. Many growers are relying entirely on seedlings raised +from sowings early in the year for their autumn display. The culture of +<i>C. indicum</i> from seed is as simple as that of Primulas or Stocks, and +the variety and delicate charm of the seedlings far surpass the formal +plants of years ago. Gardeners who require large numbers for decorative +purposes may use seedling Chrysanthemums with excellent effect.</p> + +<p>Seed should be sown in January or February, using a compost consisting +of two parts leaf-soil to one part of loam. Place the pots or pans in a +temperature of 65° to 70°. As soon as the seedlings appear they should +be moved to a somewhat lower temperature—about 55° to 60°. When the +young plants are large enough to handle, prick off into trays at about +three inches apart, using a little more loam in the soil. The most +convenient size for the purpose is fifteen inches long by nine inches +wide and three inches deep. These trays produce a quicker root action +than pots. After growth has started, place them in cold frames. +Immediately the plants have made five or six leaves transfer singly to +three-inch pots, and when nicely rooted they may be stopped once. About +June shift into six-inch pots, adding a small quantity of coarse silver +sand to the potting soil. Ten days later place them out of doors on a +bed of ashes. Towards the end of July transfer to 9-1/2 inch pots for +flowering, using soil of the composition already advised. Keep <a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a>them +standing on ashes or boards, if possible at the north side of a hedge or +house. When thoroughly rooted a little manure water may be given once a +week. In October stand the plants in a cool house, and in the first week +of November move them to flowering quarters, keeping the temperature +from 55° to 60°.</p> + +<p>If required for blooming in the open, prick the seedlings off as soon as +they will bear handling, and in May have them planted out in final +positions, giving a little protection at first. They will yield a +profusion of bloom which will prove invaluable for decorative purposes +throughout the autumn months.</p> + +<p>The Perennial Chrysanthemums include the well-known Marguerite, or +Ox-eye Daisy (<i>C. leucanthemum</i>), of which several new varieties have +been introduced in recent years. Not only have these flowers been +greatly improved in size and form, but there are now early-and +late-flowering varieties which will give a succession of bloom from May +until early autumn. The seed may be sown at any time from April to July +on a carefully prepared bed of light fertile soil, and when the +seedlings are large enough they should be transferred to permanent +quarters for flowering in the following year. In the perennial border +the plants make handsome specimens, and the long-stemmed flowers are +also invaluable for vase decoration when cut.</p> + +<p>Several of the Annual Chrysanthemums make superb displays in borders, +especially when planted in large clumps, and they deserve to be grown +extensively in odd corners to furnish a supply of charming flowers for +bouquets and arrangement in vases. There is a considerable choice of +colours, which come quite true, and the plants may be treated in all +respects as hardy annuals. When grown in pots, the Star and Dunnettii +varieties make most attractive subjects for the decoration of the +greenhouse in winter and early spring. For this purpose seed should be +sown in August and September.</p> + + +<p><b>CINERARIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Greenhouse annual</b></p> + +<p>The comparative ease with which the Cineraria can be well grown, +together with the exceeding beauty and variety of its flowers, will +always insure for it a high position in public favour. It is now so +generally raised from seed that no other mode of culture need be alluded +to. The plant is rapid in growth, very succulent, thirsty, <a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a>requires +generous feeding, and will not endure extremes of heat or cold. A +compost of mellow turfy loam, either yellow or brown, with a fair +addition of leaf-mould, will grow it to perfection. If leaf-mould cannot +be obtained, turfy peat will make a fairly good substitute. Soil from an +old Melon bed will also answer, with the addition of sharp grit such as +the sifted sweepings from gravel walks; the disadvantage of a very rich +soil is that it tends to the production of too much foliage.</p> + +<p>The usual period for sowing is during the months of May and June, and, +as a rule, the plants raised in May will be found the most valuable. A +June sowing must not be expected to produce flowers until the following +March or April. It is quite possible to have Cinerarias in bloom in +November and December, and those who care for a display at that early +period should sow in April.</p> + +<p>Cinerarias grow so freely that it is not necessary to prick the +seedlings off round the edges of pots or pans; but immediately the +plants begin to make their second leaves, transfer direct to thumb pots, +using rather coarse soil, and in doing this take care not to cover the +hearts of the plants. Place the pots in a close frame; attend to +shading, and sprinkle with soft water both morning and evening until +well established. In the second week after potting, gradually diminish +the heat and give more air. Too high a temperature, and even too much +shade, will produce thin and weak leaf-stalks. If the plants are so +crowded that they touch one another it will almost certainly be +injurious, and render them an easy prey to some of their numerous +enemies. It is far better to grow a few really fine specimens that will +produce a handsome display of superb flowers, than to attempt a large +number of feeble plants that will prove a constant source of trouble, +and in the end yield but a poor return in bloom. Endeavour to grow them +as nearly hardy as the season will allow, even admitting the night air +freely on suitable occasions. Immediately the thumb pots are filled with +roots, shift to a larger size, and it is important that this operation +should not be delayed a day too long. To the practised eye the +alteration of the colour of the leaves to a pale green is a sufficient +intimation that starvation has commenced, and that prompt action is +necessary to save the plants. It is the custom of some growers to +transfer at once to the size in which they are intended to bloom. There +is, however, some danger to the inexperienced in over-potting, and +therefore one intermediate shift is advisable. As a rule 32-size pots +are large enough, but the 24-or even the 16-size is allowable when very +fine specimens are <a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a>required. The seedlings should be in their final +pots not later than the end of November.</p> + +<p>It will help to harden and establish the plants if they are placed in +the open air during August and September. A north border under the +shelter of a wall or building is the most suitable spot, but avoid a +hedge of any kind. Clear away suckers, and if many buds are presented, +every third one may be removed when very fine blooms are wanted. From +the first appearance of the buds, manure water can be given with +advantage once or twice a week until the flowers show colour, and then +it should be discontinued.</p> + +<p>Although Cinerarias are thrifty plants, they are fastidious about +trifles. If possible give them new pots, or see that old ones are made +scrupulously clean. Even hard water will retard free growth, oftentimes +to the perplexity of the cultivator.</p> + +<p>A host of enemies attack Cinerarias; indeed, there is scarcely a pest +known to the greenhouse but finds a congenial home upon this plant. +Mildew is more common in some seasons than in others. As a rule, it +appears during July and August, especially after insufficient +ventilation, or when the plants have been left too long in one place or +too near to each other. Obviously weakness invites attack, and the +necessity of robust and vigorous growth is thus effectually taught. On +the first appearance of a curled leaf, dust the foliage and soil with +sulphur, and give no water overhead until a cure has been effected. The +aphis is easily killed by fumigation carried out on a quiet evening. +Some gardeners prefer to give an hour or two once a week to the removal +of the pest by means of a soft brush. From three to four dozen plants +are easily cleansed by hand in the time named.</p> + +<p><b>Star Cinerarias</b> (<i>C. stellata</i>) are grown under precisely the same +conditions as the Florists’ or Show Cinerarias, and this type of flower +is highly valued for its singular gracefulness and beautiful decorative +effect. In the conservatory and on the table it is an indispensable +plant. The sprays admit of most charming arrangements in vases with any +kind of ornamental foliage, and maintain their beauty for a long time in +water.</p> + +<p><b>Intermediate Cinerarias</b>.—These new types of Cineraria, which in habit +are intermediate between the Large-flowered and Stellata classes, make +admirable subjects for table decoration, as well as for the adornment of +the conservatory or greenhouse. In this class the Feltham Beauty strain +undoubtedly has a great future before it. Originated at the Feltham +Nurseries, this strain has <a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a>attracted considerable attention at the +numerous horticultural meetings where it has been exhibited, and since +it passed into our hands a few years ago some very beautiful colours not +to be found among the ordinary Stellata varieties have been added to it. +The distinctive feature of the flowers is the white centre, which +greatly enhances the vividness of the colouring of the petals. For the +Intermediate section the same methods of culture as advised for the +other classes of Cineraria will apply.</p> + + +<p><b>CLARKIA</b></p> + +<p><b>C. elegans. C. pulchella. Hardy annuals</b></p> + +<p>The two distinct classes of Clarkia named above include several +varieties that have long been freely grown in gardens as summer annuals. +But the very beautiful recent introductions in the Elegans class have +lifted these flowers to a higher plane of usefulness for producing +brilliant sheets of colour in beds, borders, shrubberies, and beside +carriage drives. Although all the Clarkias bloom profusely in ordinary +garden soil they well repay liberal treatment. Seed may be sown from +March to May, or in September if an early display is wanted. In good +ground each plant of the Pulchella varieties should be allowed a space +of eight or ten inches, but rather more room must be given to the +Elegans class to do the plants justice.</p> + +<p>The Elegans varieties are of special value when treated as pot plants +for conservatory decoration in May and June. From seed sown in August or +early in September the plants can be slowly grown into magnificent +specimens four feet high and almost as much in diameter. Our own +practice is to sow thinly in clean well-drained 48-size pots. These are +placed in a temperature of from 50° to 55°, and when the seedlings are +large enough to handle they are pricked off into shallow boxes about +three inches apart, the base of the boxes being freely perforated to +insure ample drainage. The most suitable soil is composed of equal parts +of sound loam and leaf-mould, with the addition of a gallon of coarse +sand to each bushel of the mixed soil. After the plants are well +established, ventilate freely to secure robust growth. When three inches +high pinch out the points, and a little later transfer separately to +small pots, keeping them close for a few days and as near the glass as +possible. As the roots develop, transfer again to larger pots, and then +the second and <a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a>final stopping of the shoots must be done. Should very +large plants be wanted they can be flowered in 16-size pots, using a +compost slightly heavier than that advised at a younger stage of growth. +The night temperature during winter should be about 45º, giving air +freely by day whenever possible to do so with safety. As the branches +need support, sticks of a suitable length must be provided, and the +stems tied out in good time to prevent them from breaking off.</p> + + +<p><b>CLERODENDRON FALLAX</b></p> + +<p><b>Stove shrub</b></p> + +<p>A very handsome erect shrub, which is extensively grown in tropical +gardens. In this country it attains a height of about two feet, and is +easily raised from seed in a warm greenhouse or conservatory, where it +proves to be a really beautiful and striking plant.</p> + +<p>Sow in pots or pans in March or April and transfer to single pots while +small. From the commencement a very rich soil is necessary to insure +robust growth and intense colour in the panicles of brilliant scarlet +flowers. The plants bloom in August or September of the same year. When +the leaves fall, if the intention be to store through winter, remove to +a temperature of 55°; but raising plants annually is more satisfactory +and entails less trouble than storing.</p> + +<p>Like many other tropical plants, Clerodendron fallax is subject to +attack by mealy bug, and this pest may be dealt with by hand picking or +by washing the leaves with insecticide two evenings in succession. Aphis +are also troublesome and should be cleared by fumigation.</p> + + +<p><b>COCKSCOMB</b></p> + +<p><b>Celosia cristata. Tender annual</b></p> + +<p>This fine old-fashioned flower has won renewed popularity of late years, +probably as the result of a number of well-grown plants exhibited at +horticultural shows. Those who can produce handsome Cinerarias, Balsams, +and Calceolarias, will be likely to turn out grand Cockscombs, strongly +coloured and on dwarf, leafy plants. Liberal culture is essential, and +the first start should be made in a compost consisting mainly of rich +light friable loam. Sow the seeds <a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a>on a rather brisk heat in February or +March, a newly-made but sweet hot-bed being the best place for the +seed-pans. Prick out early into very small pots, and shift on so as to +encourage growth without a check, and keep the plants on the hot-bed +until the combs are formed. It is well not to shift beyond the +8-1/2-inch size; then, by allowing the roots to become pot-bound, the +combs are soon produced. It matters not how select the seed, or how +careful the culture, a certain proportion of unsymmetrical combs will +appear; but these, if richly coloured, will be useful for decorative +purposes, and should have all the attention needed to keep their leaves +fresh and the combs pure in colour.</p> + +<p><b>COLEUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Stove perennial</b></p> + +<p>There is so much difficulty in carrying Coleus through the winter in +vigorous health that the modern plan of treating it as an annual is +advantageous for the saving of trouble and fire-heat in winter, and also +because it offers the charm of constant diversity. The fact is that our +winter days are too short and gloomy to maintain the splendour of +colouring which makes Coleus so attractive and valuable; and seed from a +good strain may be relied on to produce plants which will delight the +eye all through the summer and autumn. Some experienced men sow in +February and succeed, but the majority of cultivators will show prudence +by waiting until March, when increased daylight favours the rapid growth +of the plants. Flowerpots are better than pans, as the greater depth +affords opportunity of securing effectual drainage. The pots should be +nearly half-filled with crocks, covered with a layer of moss to prevent +the soil from being washed away. Fill them with light turfy loam, +mingled with almost an equal bulk of sharp sand. Make an even surface, +on which sow thinly, and shake over the seed a slight covering of fine +soil. Place the pots in a temperature of not less than 65°. Watering +needs particular care, because of the peculiar liability of the young +plants to damp off, especially in dull weather. The strongest seedlings +are pretty certain to be those in which green and black predominate, and +they may without scruple be removed to make way for the slower-growing +but better-coloured specimens. These should be transplanted round the +edges of pots while quite small; and such as show delicate tints, +especially those having pink markings <a name="Page_256" id="Page_256"></a>on a golden ground, are worth +nursing through the early stage with extra care. The pots must be shaded +from direct sunshine, but should be kept near the glass. In May the +plants will be large enough for 48-sized pots, beyond which there is no +occasion to go. When the pots become full of roots the foliage increases +in brilliancy, whereas larger pots encourage free growth to the +detriment of colour. A dry atmosphere is particularly injurious, while +an occasional dose of manure water will maintain the plants in health.</p> + + +<p><b>COLUMBINE—<i>see</i> AQUILEGIA</b></p> + + +<p><b>COSMEA</b></p> + +<p><b>Cosmos. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>Cosmeas make a striking show in the mixed border, and the flowers are +also in large request for indoor decoration. Disappointment is often +caused, however, through the plants failing to bloom until late in the +season, and therefore it is important to grow an early-flowering strain +in order to insure a long-continued display. The most successful method +of raising plants is to sow the seed in pots during February, pricking +off the plants as soon as large enough. When the first flowers appear in +May, transplant to positions in the open immediately danger from frost +is past.</p> + + +<p><b>CYCLAMEN</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Gardeners of experience will remember the time when the predominant +colours of Cyclamen were purple and magenta, and it was impossible for +the most friendly critic to feel enthusiastic concerning these flowers. +But the new colours—Salmon Pink, Salmon Scarlet, the intense Vulcan, +Rose Queen and Cherry Red, together with Giant White and White +Butterfly—are now regarded as the brightest and most beautiful +decorative subjects for the long period of dark winter days of which +Christmas is the centre. As cut flowers for the dinner-table Cyclamens +have no rival at that period of the year, and as specimen plants in the +home they are delightful for their free-flowering habit, compact form, +and elegant foliage.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257"></a>Seed may be sown at any time during autumn or the early part of the +year, and the plants will not only flower within twelve months, but if +properly grown will produce more bloom than can be obtained from old +bulbs. We do not advise more than three sowings, the first and most +important of which should be made in August or the beginning of +September. To obtain a succession of plants, sow again in October and +for the last time early in the new year. Those who have not hitherto +grown Cyclamen for midwinter blooming will be well pleased with the +result. It is quite as easy to flower them in the winter as in the +longer days, and this is more than can be said about most plants.</p> + +<p>The best soil for Cyclamen is a rich, sound loam, with a liberal +admixture of leaf-mould, and sufficient silver sand to insure free +drainage. Press this mixture firmly into pots or seed-pans, and dibble +the seed about an inch apart and not more than a quarter of an inch +deep. Cover the surface with a thin layer of leaves or fibrous material +to check rapid evaporation, and later on keep the soil free from moss. +The autumn sowings may at first be placed in a frame having a +temperature of not less than 45°. At the end of a fortnight transfer the +pans to any warm and moist position in the greenhouse or propagating +house.</p> + +<p>Although the Cyclamen is a tender plant, it does not need a strong heat, +and will not endure extremes of any kind. Sudden changes are always +fatal to its growth. In winter the temperature should not be allowed to +fall below 56°, or to rise above 70° at any time. The more evenly the +heat can be maintained the better, and it is desirable to give all the +light possible. In summer, however, although a warm and humid atmosphere +is still necessary, the light may with advantage be somewhat subdued, +but shading must not be overdone, or the constitution of the plant will +suffer.</p> + +<p>Cyclamen seed not only germinates slowly, but it also grows in the most +capricious manner; sometimes a few plants come up long after others have +made a good start. Do not be impatient of their appearance, but when +some seedlings are large enough for removal transfer to thumb pots, +taking care not to insert them too deeply. As the plants develop, shift +into larger pots, ending finally in the 48-size. In the later stages mix +less sand with the soil, and when potting always leave the crown of the +corm clear. Keep the plants near the glass, and as the sun becomes +powerful it will be necessary to provide shade and prevent excess of +heat. Never allow the seedlings to suffer from want of water, or to +become a prey to aphis.<a name="Page_258" id="Page_258"></a> To avoid the latter, occasional, or it may be +frequent, fumigations must be resorted to. About the end of May should +find the most forward plants ready for shifting into 60-pots. Give all +the air possible to promote a sturdy growth. In doing this, however, +avoid draughts of cold air. From the end of June to the middle of July +the finest plants should be ready for their final shift into 48-pots, in +which they will flower admirably. The growth during August and September +will be very free, and then occasional assistance with weak manure water +will add to the size and colour of the flowers. As the evenings shorten, +save the plants from chills, which result in deformed blossoms.</p> + +<p>The whole secret of successful Cyclamen culture may be summed up in a +few words: constant and unvarying heat, a moist atmosphere, and abundant +supplies of water without stagnation; free circulation of air, avoiding +cold draughts; light in winter, and shade in summer, with freedom from +insect pests. These conditions will keep the plants in vigorous growth +from first to last, and the result will be so bountiful a bloom as to +prove the soundness of the rapid system of cultivation. This routine may +be varied by the experienced cultivator, but the principles will remain +the same in all cases, because the natural constitution of the plant +gives the key to its management.</p> + + +<p><b>DAHLIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Both the double and the single classes of Dahlia are increasingly grown +as annuals from seed, and this practice has the great advantage of being +economical in time and in the saving of space during winter. The +seedlings grow freely and quickly, and will flower quite as early as +those grown by the more lengthy and troublesome method from tubers. Even +those who possess a stock of named sorts may with advantage raise a +supply from seed, especially as there is a probability of securing some +charming novelty, which is in itself no small incentive.</p> + +<p>Although the Dahlia is a tender plant, it is easily managed in a +greenhouse, or in a frame resting on a hot-bed. The seed may be sown as +early as January, but unless sufficient space is at command to keep the +plants stocky as they develop, it will be wise to wait until February. A +sowing in the month last named will produce plants forward enough to +bloom at the usual time. Even March <a name="Page_259" id="Page_259"></a>will not be too late; but whatever +time may be chosen, when the start has been made it must be followed up +with diligence, so as to avoid giving any check from first to last. Sow +thinly in pots or pans filled with ordinary light rich compost, and +cover the seed with a mere sprinkling of fine earth. When the first pair +of leaves attain the height of an inch, pot off each plant singly close +up to the base of the leaves. It is not advisable to throw the weakly +seedlings away; these are the very plants which are most likely to +display new shades of colour and they are worth some additional trouble. +Although weak at the outset, they may, by judicious treatment, be +developed into a thriving and healthy condition.</p> + +<p>When potted, place the plants in heat, giving a little extra care until +growth is fairly started. In due time shift into larger sizes as may be +necessary, and then it will be wise to consider whether there is space +to grow the whole stock well. If not, do not hesitate to sacrifice the +surplus, and in doing so reject the rankest-growing specimens, for these +are least likely to produce a fine display of bloom. It is mistaken +practice to take out the top shoot, as this checks the plant for no good +end; but when about six inches high, each one will need the support of a +stick. Give water freely, and air on all suitable occasions. The least +tendency to curled leaves indicates something amiss, and demands +immediate attention. A cold blast may have stricken the plants, or the +soil may be poor; lack of sufficient water will produce the mischief, or +it may arise from the presence of aphis. If the last-named assumption +prove correct, fumigate on the first quiet evening, and omit watering on +that day. The mere mention of the other points will be sufficient to +show the remedy for them.</p> + +<p>As the time for transfer to the open air approaches, all that is +possible should be done to harden the plants for the change. They may be +placed for a few days under the shelter of a wall or hedge, but on the +least sign of frost be prepared to protect with hurdles or mats. Full +exposure during genial showers and fair weather is advisable, and an +occasional examination of the plants will prevent their rooting through +the pots into the soil.</p> + +<p>The border for Dahlias can scarcely be made too rich, for they are +hungry and thirsty subjects, and will amply repay in a profusion of +bloom the manure that may be lavished upon them. Slugs and snails are +unfortunately too partial to newly planted Dahlias, but the vermin soon +cease to care about them; therefore it is advisable to plant Lettuces +plentifully at the same time, or previously, on the <a name="Page_260" id="Page_260"></a>same ground, and to +dust around the Dahlias with lime. Insert at least one stake, about a +yard long, near each plant, to give support, and two or three others +will have to be given before the branches spread far. Secure the first +shoot when planting is completed, and follow up the tying as growth +demands.</p> + +<p>Dahlias bloom continuously for a long time, and appear to be especially +at home in the shrubbery border, or in the centre of a bed. They are +also valuable for training against buildings having a southern aspect, +and here the flowering period is much prolonged, for an early frost will +scarcely reach them. A light wall is an admirable background for +deep-coloured varieties, and the white or yellow flowers are displayed +to advantage against a dark building. Dahlias may be used either alone +or in company with the climbing plants which are usual in such +positions.</p> + +<p>The flowers possess a special value for indoor decoration, and any odd +corner of the garden can be utilised for producing a supply for this +purpose. Cutting should invariably be done in the early morning, while +yet the dew is upon them. They will then retain their beauty for a +longer period than those taken at a later hour from the same plants. +This remark is true of all flowers, but it applies with especial force +to the Dahlia.</p> + + +<p><b>DAISY, DOUBLE</b></p> + +<p><b>Bellis perennis fl. pl. Hardy perennial</b></p> + + +<p>The remarkable development of the Double Daisy in recent years has +raised this simple garden subject to the foremost rank of spring bedding +plants. So pronounced has been the improvement achieved in the size and +form of the flowers, that plants raised from a reliable strain of seed +will now produce blooms which may well be mistaken for specimens of +finely shaped Asters. When massed in a large bed the flowers present one +of the most striking sights to be seen anywhere in the spring garden. +But apart from their use in formal beds and borders, Double Daisies make +a pleasing break among Wallflowers, and are particularly attractive when +grown as an edging to bulbous flowers and other spring-blooming subjects +such as Polyanthus, Myosotis, &c. Plants from a sowing made in pans in +April and put out when large enough, may be flowered in the autumn of +the same year. But the method more generally practised is to sow <a name="Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>on +prepared beds in the open during June or July, and to transfer the +seedlings when sufficiently developed to positions for blooming in the +following season.</p> + + +<p><b>DELPHINIUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Nearly all the perennial varieties may be raised from seed, and where +large numbers are required this is the best method of obtaining them. +They make handsome border flowers, and are extremely valuable during the +early months of summer. Sow in May, June or July, in the open ground, +and transplant in autumn. If mixed seed has been sown, it will not be +wise to thin out all the weakly plants, or it may happen that some of +the choicest shades may be lost. The first flowers will be over by +midsummer, but if the stalks are promptly cut down instead of being +allowed to seed, there will be a second display later in the year.</p> + +<p>Three varieties, Queen of Blues, Dwarf Porcelain Blue, and Blue +Butterfly, may be flowered as annuals, by sowing in pans in March and +transplanting to the open as soon as the seedlings are ready. They also +make particularly charming pot plants, for which purpose it is advisable +to sow seeds in March.</p> + +<p>The scarlet variety (<i>D. nudicaule</i>) is rather more delicate than the +others, and it is wise to raise the plants in well-drained seed-pans, +and to take care of them through the first winter in a cold frame; +indeed, in a heavy soil there is a risk of losing them in any winter +which is both cold and wet. It is not necessary to employ pots, but +immediately after flowering take them up and store in peat until the +following April, when they can be returned to the open ground.</p> + +<p><i>D. sulphureum.</i> The seed takes a very long time to germinate, and +severely taxes the patience of the sower. But otherwise there is no +difficulty in raising plants, and the long spikes of beautiful clear +sulphur-yellow flowers are well worth the extra time the seedlings need. +The best plan is to sow in autumn in the open ground, cover with a +frame, and avoid disturbing the soil, except for weeding, until the next +autumn, when the plants should be put into position for flowering in the +following summer.</p> + +<p>As slugs are exceedingly partial to Delphiniums, the crowns should be +examined in spring, and the seed-beds may be dressed with soot and +surrounded with ashes to save the seedlings from injury.</p> + +<p>The annual Delphiniums are dealt with under Larkspur, page 274.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262"></a><b>DIANTHUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Pink. Biennials, hardy and half-hardy</b></p> + +<p>Many varieties of Dianthus claim attention for their elegant forms and +splendour of colouring. They have been so wonderfully improved by +scientific growers that they almost supersede the old garden Pinks, and +have the great advantage of coming true from seed. <i>D. Heddewigii</i> +(Japan Pink) and its varieties, <i>D. chinensis</i> (Indian Pink) and <i>D. +imperialis</i>, make interesting and sumptuous beds, and may all be +flowered the first year from sowings made in heat in January or +February. Immediately the seedlings are through the soil it is important +to shift them to a rather lower temperature than is necessary for +insuring germination, or the plants become soft and worthless. Be very +sparing with water, especially if the soil is at all retentive. When two +leaves are formed, transfer to pans, allowing about an inch between each +plant, and place in a sheltered position. Gradually introduce to cool +treatment, and when ready prick off again, allowing each plant more +space. They will thus have a much better start, when planted out in May, +than if taken from the seed-pans direct. Dianthus make a most attractive +display in pots, and a number of seedlings should be potted on for +flowering in this manner.</p> + +<p>Where there are no facilities for raising Dianthus in heat, it is quite +easy to grow plants in an open spot from a sowing in June or July, and +they will flower freely in the following year. Prepare drills about six +inches apart and line them with sifted soil; sow thinly, and carefully +cover the seed with fine soil. Shade must be given during germination, +but it should be gradually withdrawn when the seedlings are up. Transfer +to final positions in August. Should this be impossible, prick the +plants out, and shift them again a little later. It will only do harm to +leave them crowded in the seed-bed, and the second move will better +enable them to withstand winter frosts. The Dianthus thrives in a sandy +or loamy soil, with full exposure to sunshine, and the plants scarcely +need water or any attention the whole season through.</p> + + +<p><b>DIGITALIS</b></p> + +<p><b>Foxglove. Hardy biennial</b></p> + +<p>Besides the native Purple Foxglove, largely grown in gardens, there are +several very handsome varieties that are valuable for adorning <a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a>borders, +shrubberies and woodland walks. Specially worthy of attention are Giant +Primrose, a beautiful variety with rich cream or buff flowers; the Giant +Spotted, which produces handsome flowers, rich and varied in colour; and +the white variety with its abundance of charming ivory-white bells, +which are occasionally slightly spotted.</p> + +<p>Any deep rich soil suits Digitalis, and seed sown in May, June, or July +will produce seedlings which, with very little attention, will yield a +fine display of flowers in the following summer. Sow in the open in +pans, or on a prepared border, and put the young plants into permanent +positions, choosing showery weather in August or September.</p> + + +<p><b>DIMORPHOTHECA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>The Dimorphotheca, also called the Star of the Veldt, was introduced +into this country from South Africa and, like the Nemesia, also a native +of that Dominion, it has become one of the most valuable of our summer +annuals. Under favourable conditions plants may be flowered in six weeks +from time of sowing and they will continue to bloom in profusion until +cut down by frost. In addition to the striking orange flower, <i>D. +aurantiaca</i> (Orange Daisy), a wide range of colours, including many +delicate tints, has been evolved by careful hybridisation.</p> + +<p>Those who wish to obtain forward plants should sow during March or April +in pans of light soil placed in a cold frame, and the seedlings will be +ready for transfer to open quarters in May. Or seed may safely be sown +in the open ground in May and June. As suggested by its native habitat, +the Dimorphotheca loves a warm sunny position and grows to the greatest +perfection in a light soil or a well-drained loam.</p> + +<p>The practice of flowering half-hardy annuals in pots is rapidly +increasing, and among this class of plants the Dimorphotheca has few +rivals as a decorative subject for the conservatory. It is more +effective to grow three or four plants in a pot than one only, and the +best specimens are obtained by sowing direct into the pots and thinning +the seedlings to the required number. Use a light rich compost +containing a fair proportion of silver sand, and do not let the plants +suffer for the lack of water.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a><b>ESCHSCHOLTZIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>A decade or so ago the predominant colours found in Eschscholtzias were +yellow and orange, but in recent years a number of new and very +attractive shades have been introduced, with the result that this plant +is now regarded as indispensable for summer bedding and for borders. The +modern practice is to grow Eschscholtzias as annuals, sowing in the open +during March and April. As the seedlings do not readily transplant, the +seed should be put in where the flowers are wanted. Thin out in due +course, allowing each plant ample space for development. Sowings may +also be made during September, from which the plants will bloom in +advance of those raised in spring.</p> + + +<p><b>FREESIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The Freesia is another of the bulbous flowers easily raised from seed, +and it may be had in bloom within six months from date of sowing. Use a +rich compost, and sow under glass in January, February, or March, as may +best suit convenience. Seed should be sown again in August, to supply +flowers in spring or summer of the following year. The brittleness of +the roots makes re-potting a hazardous operation. It is therefore wise +to sow in 48-pots and thin to four or five plants in each, thus avoiding +the need for shifting until after flowering has taken place. When +re-potting becomes imperative, it must be done with a gentle hand, and +the bulbs ought to be carefully matched for each pot. The position +chosen for Freesias should be light and freely ventilated in mild +weather, but they will not endure a cutting draught. For further +cultural notes see page 328.</p> + + +<p><b>FUCHSIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>To raise Fuchsias from seed will be new practice to many; but it is both +interesting and inexpensive, and every year it secures an increasing +number of adherents. Seed may be sown at almost any time of the year; if +a start be made in January or February, the plants will bloom in July or +August. Soil for the seed-pots should <a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"></a>be somewhat firm in texture, but +a light rich compost ought to be employed when the plants come to be +potted off, and the final shift should be into a mixture containing +nearly one-third of decayed cow-manure. For the early sowing we have +named, a rather strong heat will be necessary to bring up the seed. When +large enough to handle, prick off the seedlings round the edges of +60-pots, putting about six plants into each pot. Shade and moisture are +requisite to give them a start after each transfer. Subsequently they +must be potted on as growth demands, until the final size is reached; +and flowering will not commence so long as increased pot-room is given. +The growth must not be hurried, and the plants should at all times be +kept free from vermin. Seedlings having narrow pointed leaves may be +consigned to the waste heap without scruple; but plants with short +rounded foliage, especially if dark in colour, are almost certain to +prove of high quality.</p> + + +<p><b>GAILLARDIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>All the Gaillardias are most conveniently grown as annuals from seed. +The plants remain in bloom for a long period, and for their gorgeous +colouring the flowers are as highly prized for arranging in bowls and +vases as for garden decoration. The best month in which to sow seed is +March, and the plants will then be ready for putting out in May. Any +good compost will answer, and only a moderate temperature is necessary +to bring up the seedlings. The usual course of procedure in pricking off +must be adopted to keep them short and stout.</p> + + +<p><b>GERANIUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Pelargonium. Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Geraniums of all kinds are most valuable if treated as annuals. In their +seedling state the plants are peculiarly robust and charmingly fresh in +leafage and flowers, even if amongst them there does not happen to be +one that is welcome as a novel florist’s flower. When grown from +first-class seed, however, a large proportion of fine varieties and a +few real novelties may be expected. The seed may be sown on any day +throughout the year, but February and August are <a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a>especially suitable. +Sow in pans filled with a good mixture, in a somewhat rough state. Cover +with a fair sixteenth of an inch of fine soil. Put the seed-pans in a +temperature of 60° to 70° if sown in February, but heat will not be +necessary at all unless it is desired to bring the plants into flower +early in the ensuing summer. We are accustomed to place the seed-pans on +a sunny shelf in a cool greenhouse, and have fine plants by the end of +June, many of which begin to flower in August.</p> + + +<p><b>GERBERA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The Gerbera, also known as the Barberton or Transvaal Daisy, is a native +of South Africa. Under cool greenhouse treatment it may be grown to +perfection in pots, and a charming display of bloom can also be obtained +in the open border from plants put out in a well-drained sunny position +and given slight protection in winter. The flowers somewhat resemble a +Marguerite in form, having a number of long pointed petals radiating +from a small centre. In addition to the brilliant <i>G. Jamesonii</i>, +sometimes called the Scarlet Daisy of the Cape, many hybrid flowers +having a wide range of delightful colours are also available. Although +seed is often sown in spring, the best results are probably obtained +from an August sowing, in pans placed in a gentle heat. Prick off the +seedlings when large enough, and if required for the greenhouse or +conservatory transfer to pots, or gradually harden off for planting in +the open as soon as weather permits in the following spring.</p> + + +<p><b>GESNERA</b></p> + +<p><b>Nægelia. Tender perennial</b></p> + +<p>An extremely beautiful ornament for stove or conservatory. The new +hybrids freely produce spikes of bright pendulous flowers of many +charming colours. Although the Gesnera is a perennial, it is sound +practice to treat the plant as an annual. Seedlings from a January +sowing will commence flowering in about nine months. Very rich soil, a +warm and even temperature, and plenty of water, are requisite to promote +luxuriant growth. The culture advised for Gloxinias will exactly suit +the Gesnera also.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a><b>GEUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The introduction of the well-known double variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, which +may easily be flowered from seed in the first season, has brought the +Geum into prominence in recent years. Seed of the above-named variety +should be sown in pans in March or April and the seedlings pricked off +into boxes of rich soil when large enough. Put out in May or June and do +not let the plants suffer for want of water. Geums may also be raised +from sowings made in June or July, and transplanting in due course to +permanent quarters, in the manner usual with hardy perennials.</p> + + +<p><b>GLADIOLUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Corn Flag. Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Formerly the Gladiolus was seldom raised from seed, probably because the +seed obtainable was not worth sowing. Now it is saved with so much care +that it will give a splendid display of flowers, a large proportion of +which will be equal to named sorts, and some may show a decided advance.</p> + +<p>The use of large pots—the 32-size will answer—is advantageous for many +reasons, and they should be either new or scrupulously clean, for they +will have to remain unchanged for many months, so that a fair start is +the more necessary. For the same reason special care should be taken to +insure free drainage. Over the usual crocks place a layer of dry moss, +and fill with a compost of fibrous loam and leaf-mould in equal parts, +with sufficient sharp sand added to make it thoroughly porous. Press the +soil firmly into the pots, making the surface quite even, and in +February dibble the seeds separately about an inch apart, and half an +inch deep. This will render it needless to disturb the seedlings during +the first season. Put the seed-pots in a steady temperature not +exceeding 65° or 70°. After watering, it will help to retain the +moisture if the top of each pot is covered with a layer of <i>old</i> moss, +until the plants show. When the seedlings are about an inch high remove +to a lower temperature, and begin to harden off by giving air on +suitable occasions. Take care, however, that in the process no check is +given to growth. Soon after the middle of May the seedlings should be +<a name="Page_268" id="Page_268"></a>able to bear full exposure, and it will then be time to renew the +surface soil. Gently remove the upper layer, and replace it with rotten +cow-manure, or some other rich dressing. Water must be given regularly +until about midsummer, when the pots may be plunged to the rim in a +shady border, and this will keep them tolerably moist until, in +September, the seedlings begin to ripen off, which they must be allowed +to do. When the leaves have died down, shake out the bulbs and place +them on a shelf to dry. A mixture of equal parts of peat and pine +sawdust, placed in a box or seed-pan, will make the best possible store +for them; the box or seed-pan to be kept in any spot which is safe from +heat and frost. After about six weeks, each bulb should be examined, and +decayed specimens removed. If any of them have commenced growing, pot +them and place in a pit or greenhouse. In March take the bulbs out of +store, pot each one singly, and prepare for planting out. The transfer +to the open must not be made until the danger of frost is past, even +though it be necessary to wait until the first week of June.</p> + +<p>Further remarks on Gladiolus will be found at page 329, under ‘The +Culture of Flowering Bulbs.’</p> + + +<p><b>GLOXINIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Tender perennial</b></p> + +<p>Gloxinias can now be flowered in the most satisfactory manner within six +months from the date of sowing seed. Hence there is no longer the least +temptation to propagate these plants by the lengthy and troublesome +method formerly in vogue, especially as seedlings raised from a +first-class strain produce flowers of the finest quality, both as to +form and style of growth. One great advantage to be obtained from +seedlings is an almost endless variety of colour, for the careful +hybridisation of the choicest flowers not only perpetuates those +colours, but yields other fine shades also. Those who have never seen a +large and well-grown collection of seedling Gloxinias have yet to +witness one of the most striking displays of floral beauty.</p> + +<p>Quite as much has been done for the foliage of the Gloxinia as for its +flower, and the best strains now produce grand leaves which are reflexed +in such a manner as almost to hide the pot, so that the foliage presents +an extremely ornamental appearance.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269"></a>By successive sowings and judicious management it is possible to flower +Gloxinias almost the year through. The most important months for sowing +seed are January, February, and March, and to secure an early display in +the following spring some growers sow again in June or July.</p> + +<p>The soil most suited to Gloxinias is a light porous compost of fibrous +loam. If this is not obtainable, leaf-mould will answer, mixed with peat +and silver sand in about equal parts. New pots are advisable, or old +ones must be thoroughly cleansed, and free drainage is essential to +success. Fill the pots to within half an inch of the top. Sow thinly, +and slightly cover the seed with very fine soil. Place the pots in a +warm, moist position, carefully shading from the sun. A light sprinkling +of water daily will be necessary. Immediately some plants are large +enough for shifting, lift them tenderly from the seed-pot, so as +scarcely to disturb the rest, and prick off into large 60-pots in which +the soil has a convex surface. Follow this process as plants become +ready until all the seedlings have been transferred. When potting on +allow the leaves to rest on the soil, but avoid covering the hearts. On +the first warm day give air on the leeward side of the house, briefly at +first, and increase the time as the plants become established. A clear +space between the plants is necessary to prevent the leaves of +neighbours from meeting. The final shift should be into 48-pots, unless +extra fine specimens are required, and then one or two sizes larger may +be used. An occasional dose of weak manure water will prove beneficial, +taking care that the foliage is not wetted. A moist atmosphere, with the +temperature at about 60° to 65°, greatly facilitates the growth of +Gloxinias. With care, however, they may be well grown in greenhouses and +pits heated by hot water. Although the plants love a humid atmosphere +while growing, this ceases to be an advantage, and, in fact, becomes +injurious when the flowers begin to expand. At that time, also, the +manure water should be discontinued.</p> + +<p>Under ‘The Culture of Flowering Bulbs,’ page 331, further instructions +are given.</p> + + +<p><b>GODETIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>So far as the culture of Godetias is concerned, the usual spring sowing +and the regular treatment of hardy annuals will satisfy those who are +content with a display entailing the least possible trouble.<a name="Page_270" id="Page_270"></a> But the +Godetia is no ordinary annual. The plants flower with such amazing +profusion, and the colours are so magnificent, that those who wish to +produce striking effects in beds or borders in July and August will find +Godetias of the highest value. All the varieties come perfectly true to +colour and admit of numerous contrasts and harmonies. As an example, we +suggest the following combination for a long border, or beside a +carriage drive. Sow two rows of Alyssum minimum, allowing twelve inches +between the rows; one row of Dwarf Pink Godetia fifteen inches from the +Alyssum; two rows of G. Dwarf Duchess of Albany eighteen inches apart; +one row of G. Scarlet Queen eighteen inches from the preceding variety, +and one row of Double Rose at the back. The result will astonish those +who have not previously seen a really fine exposition of this flower. +Many other combinations will occur to those who carefully study colour +schemes.</p> + +<p>There are few annuals more greatly valued for cutting than the taller +varieties of Godetia. These mainly produce double flowers in sprays two +feet or more in length which develop into full beauty after being placed +in water.</p> + +<p>March and April are the months for sowing seed in the open for a summer +display, and September for spring flowering. Good effects, however, are +obtained by raising a sufficient number of plants in boxes and pricking +off in readiness for putting out after bulbs and spring bedders have +been cleared away. Under this practice there need not be a blank or a +defective specimen.</p> + +<p>Dwarf Godetias make exceedingly symmetrical and attractive pot plants. +For this purpose sow seed in October in pans and place them in a +temperature of 55° until the seedlings appear, then remove to a cooler +place. As soon as possible prick off three in each 48-pot and when +established grow on during winter in cold frames, giving air daily +except in frosty weather, when the frames must remain closed and can be +protected with whatever covering may be at hand. Here it may be well to +point out that even when touched by frost the plants will recover if +they are shaded from the sun’s rays until the pots are quite clear of +frost. Godetias flowered in pots make bright groups in conservatories, +and occasionally do good service where failures occur in beds.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271"></a><b>GREVILLEA ROBUSTA</b></p> + +<p><b>Australian Oak. Greenhouse shrub</b></p> + +<p>In its native country, New South Wales, this is a stately tree. Here it +is grown as a pot plant, and the finely cut, drooping, fern-like foliage +produces one of the most graceful decorative subjects we possess. Its +value is enhanced by the fact that it withstands the baneful influences +of gas, dust, and changes of temperature better than the majority of +table plants.</p> + +<p>Seedlings are easily raised by those who can exercise patience; and +afterwards the simplest cool culture will suffice to grow handsome +specimens. But we do not know any seed—not even the Auricula—which +takes more time and is so capricious in germinating. In all cases where +seed is sown in fairly rich soil, which has to be kept constantly moist +and undisturbed for a long period, there is a tendency to sourness, +especially on the surface. Free drainage will do something towards +preventing this. Another aid in the same direction is to cover the seed +with a layer of sand, and the sand with a thin coating of ordinary +potting soil. When the surface becomes covered with moss, the coating of +soil can be gently removed down to the sand, and be replaced with fresh +earth, without detriment to the seeds.</p> + +<p>Sow at any time of the year, in 48-sized pots filled with rather firm +soil; and as the seedlings straggle through and show two pairs of +leaves, pot them off singly, and give the shelter of a close pit or +frame until they become established. They must not be allowed to suffer +for lack of water, but there is no necessity to give them manure water +at any stage of growth. An occasional re-potting is the only other +attention they will require until they reach the final size, and the +pots need not then be large.</p> + + +<p><b>HOLLYHOCK</b></p> + +<p><b>Althæa rosea. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Generations of unnatural treatment had so debilitated the Hollyhock that +disease threatened to banish it from our gardens. Just at the critical +time it was discovered that the plant could be grown and satisfactorily +flowered from seed. Florists at once turned their attention to the +production of seed worth growing, and with marked success. The best +strains may now be relied on to produce a large <a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a>proportion of perfectly +formed double flowers, imposing in size, colour, and substance. The +seedlings also possess a constitution capable of withstanding the deadly +<i>Puccinia malvacearum</i>, and there is no longer a danger that this +stately plant will become merely one of the pleasures of memory.</p> + +<p>In growing the Hollyhock it is necessary to remember that a large amount +of vegetable tissue has to be produced within a brief period, so that +the treatment throughout its career should be exceptionally liberal. +Some gardeners are successful in flowering Hollyhocks as annuals. Where +this course is adopted it is usual to sow in January in well-drained +pots or seed-pans filled with rich soil freely mixed with sand, covering +the seed with a slight dusting of fine earth. A temperature of 65° or +70° is necessary, and in about a fortnight the plants should attain a +height of one inch, when they will be ready for pricking off round the +edges of 4-1/2-inch pots, filled with a good porous compost. Put the +seedlings in so that the first leaves just touch the surface. At the +beginning of March transfer singly to thumb pots, and immediately the +roots take hold remove to pits or frames, where they can be exposed to +genial showers and be gradually hardened. Defer the planting out until +the weather is quite warm and settled.</p> + +<p>The shrubbery border is the natural position for the Hollyhock, but the +regular occupants keep the soil poor, and for such a rapid-growing plant +as we are now considering there is obviously all the greater need for +deep digging and liberal manuring. If put out during dry weather, +complete the operation with a soaking of water, and repeat this twice a +week until rain falls. Give each plant a clear space of three or four +feet to afford easy access for staking and watering. By midsummer +offshoots will begin to push through the soil. The removal of these will +throw all the strength of the plant into one stem. To insure its safety +a strong stake will be required, which should be firmly driven into the +ground, and rise six or seven feet above it. In case of an accident at +any time to the central stem the hope of flowers for that year is gone, +and it is therefore worth some pains to prevent a mishap. The tying must +be done with judgment, and as the plants increase in size an occasional +inspection will save the stems from being cut. Several inches of +half-decayed cow-manure placed round the stems, with a saucer-like +hollow in the centre to retain water, will be helpful to the roots, and +if the flowers are intended for exhibition, the treatment can scarcely +be too generous.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273"></a>It is, however, easy to grow and flower Hollyhocks without the aid of +artificial heat. On a south border in June prepare drills about two +inches deep and a foot apart. Place an inch of rich sifted soil in each +drill, and upon this sow the seed very thinly, covering it about a +quarter of an inch. If the weather be dry, give a gentle soaking of +water, and finish with a dusting of soot to prevent vermin from eating +the seedlings. Thin the plants to six inches apart, and they may remain +in the seed-rows until the end of September. Whether they are then +transplanted straight to blooming quarters, or put into a cold frame for +the winter, depends on soil and climate. In the southern counties, and +on light land, it will generally be safe to winter Hollyhocks in the +open, with merely a shelter of dry fern or litter. But in heavy loam or +clay the risk is too great, and the cold frame must be resorted to. In +this they will be secure, and can be ventilated as weather permits. As +the season advances give more air, until they are planted out in May. +Seed may also be sown in pans in July or August, the seedlings being +transferred in due course to pots for the winter. The protection of a +frame will suffice, provided that frost is kept away, and the plants may +be put out in spring as already advised.</p> + + +<p><b>IMPATIENS</b></p> + +<p><b>Sultan’s Balsam. Tender perennial</b></p> + +<p>Early sowing should be avoided for two reasons. The seed germinates but +slowly in dull weather, and the seedlings when raised are almost certain +to damp off. We do not advise a start before March, and not until April +unless a steady heat of 60° or 65° can be maintained. Sow in +well-drained pots, filled with soil composed of two parts of turfy loam +and one part of leaf-soil, with very little sand added. The seedlings +are exceedingly brittle at the outset, and re-potting should not be +attempted until they are about an inch high. Even then they need +delicate handling, and after the task is accomplished they should be +promptly placed in a warm frame or propagating pit for a few days. In +June or July the plants should reach 48-sized pots, but they must not be +transferred to the conservatory without careful hardening, or the whole +of the flowers will fall. <i>I. Holstii</i> also succeeds well when bedded +out in summer in the same manner as Begonias.</p> + + +<p><b>JACOBEA—<i>see</i> SENECIO</b></p> + + +<p><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a><b>KOCHIA TRICHOPHYLLA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>This remarkable variety of <i>K. scoparia</i> is a miniature annual shrub, +which is also known as Summer Cypress, or Belvidere. It is singularly +attractive, of rapid growth and graceful habit. In a very brief time the +finely cut foliage forms a compact cylindrical plant, beautifully domed +at the top, and the tender green changes to a rich russet-crimson in +autumn.</p> + +<p>Seed may be sown in slight heat during February or March to provide +early plants for pots, or for setting out in the open immediately the +bedding season commences. It is important not to crowd the seedlings, +and every precaution should be taken to prevent them from becoming thin, +leggy, or wanting in symmetry. Each plant must be allowed sufficient +space to develop equally all round. An April sowing can be made in the +open where the plants are intended to remain, and beyond regular +thinning they will give very little trouble.</p> + +<p>As a conspicuous dot plant in beds this Kochia is extremely useful, or +it can be massed in borders, and it also forms an admirable dividing +line in the flower garden. For the decoration of conservatories a number +should be specially reserved. Specimens may be employed with striking +effect on flights of steps, in halls, and many other positions where a +plant of perfect outline will serve as an ornament. Height, 2 to 3 feet.</p> + + +<p><b>LARKSPUR</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>The cultivation of the annual Delphiniums, more familiarly known as +Larkspurs, is so simple in character that it calls for little comment. +But these handsome subjects are so widely grown, and so greatly +appreciated, that they are fully deserving of special mention here. The +taller varieties, of which the Stock-flowered strain is the most +popular, are best grown in large beds, borders and shrubberies, and the +dwarfer kinds in small beds. Apart from their usefulness in the garden, +however, the taller sorts of Larkspur are much in request for providing +cut material, particularly for the decoration of the dinner-table, and a +number of plants should always be grown in <a name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></a>reserve for this purpose. It +is usual to put in the seed where the plants are intended to stand, and +March and April are the best months for sowing. Thin out the seedlings +promptly, and give each plant ample room for development, especially +when grown on good ground.</p> + +<p>Larkspurs may also be sown in September for producing an earlier display +in the following year than is possible from spring-sown seed.</p> + + +<p><b>LAVATERA</b></p> + +<p><b>Mallow. Hardy annual and hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Countryside gardens owe not a little of their floral brightness to the +Mallows. The modern varieties of Lavatera, however, far surpass in +effectiveness the flowers commonly met with and are regarded as among +the finest subjects for creating an imposing display in tall borders and +large beds. For this purpose the annual varieties, Loveliness, <i>Rosea +splendens</i>, and <i>Alba splendens</i>, are the most popular. As transplanting +is not to be depended upon, seed should be sown thinly in March, April +or May where the plants are wanted to flower. If the ground has been +generously prepared fine specimens will result, and each plant should be +allowed a spacing of at least two feet for development.</p> + +<p>The perennial variety, <i>L. Olbia</i>, makes a bold subject for herbaceous +borders and shrubberies. Seed may be sown in pans any time from March to +August, putting out the plants when large enough for flowering in the +following season. Small plants of this variety may with advantage be +potted for conservatory decoration.</p> + + +<p><b>LOBELIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Annual and perennial; half-hardy</b></p> + +<p>There are several distinct classes of Lobelia, differing materially in +height and habit. For dwarf beds or edgings the <i>compact</i> varieties +should alone be used. These grow from four to six inches high, and form +dense balls of flowers. The <i>spreading</i> or <i>gracilis</i> class, including +<i>L. speciosa</i> and <i>L. Paxtoniana</i>, is in deserved repute for positions +which do not demand an exact limit to the line of colouring. The plants +also show to advantage in suspended baskets, window boxes, <a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>rustic work, +vases, and any position where an appearance of graceful negligence is +aimed at. The <i>ramosa</i> section grows from nine to twelve inches high, +and produces much larger flowers than the classes previously named.</p> + +<p>All the foregoing can be treated as annuals; and from sowings, made in +February or March plants may be raised in good time for bedding out in +May. Use sandy soil, and place the seed-pans in a temperature of about +60°, taking care to keep them moist. By the end of March or beginning of +April the seedlings will be ready for transferring to pots, pans, or +boxes. The last named are very serviceable for this flower, for they +afford opportunity of giving the seedlings sufficient space to produce a +tufty habit of growth. A gentle heat will start them, and they will give +no trouble afterwards, except on one point, which happens to be of +considerable importance. It is that the plants should never be allowed +to produce a flower while in pots or boxes. Pick off every bud until +they are in final positions, and then, having taken hold of the soil, +they will bloom profusely until the end of the season.</p> + +<p>Lobelias make elegant pot plants, yet, with the exception of the +<i>ramosa</i> varieties which are excellent for the purpose, they cannot be +grown satisfactorily in pots. The difficulty is easily surmounted by +putting them out a foot apart in a good open position, and if possible +in a rather stiff soil. When they have developed into fine clumps lift +them with care and place them in pots, avoiding injury to the roots. +This method will produce a display of colour which cannot be attained by +exclusive pot culture.</p> + +<p>From the best strains of seed it is possible that a few plants may +revert to long-lost characters. Florists are striving to obviate this, +but it will require time. Meanwhile there are two ways of dealing with +the difficulty. Some growers prefer to raise plants from seed, and take +cuttings from approved specimens for the next season. This plan insures +exactitude in height and colour, with almost the robust growth and +free-flowering qualities of seedlings. But it necessitates holding a +stock through the winter, and this may be a serious matter to many. The +simpler proceeding, and one which answers well in practice, is to raise +seedlings annually and to remove from the pans or boxes any plants which +show the least deviation from the true type. A few kept as a reserve +will replace faulty specimens which may be detected after planting out.</p> + +<p>The handsome perennial section of Lobelias obtains less attention than +it deserves, especially as the most ordinary routine culture will +<a name="Page_277" id="Page_277"></a>suffice for these plants. They are partial to moisture, and also to a +deep rich loam. A sowing on moderate heat in February or March will +secure plants fit for bedding out in May. They may also be grown +entirely without the aid of artificial heat from sowings in June or +July. Employ pots or seed-pans, and pot off singly immediately the +plants are large enough to handle. The protection of a cold frame or +hand-light is all that is necessary during winter, and the planting out +may be done in May. These Lobelias reach two feet in height, and make +excellent companions to such flowers as <i>Anemone japonica alba</i> and +<i>Hyacinthus candicans</i>. The dark metallic foliage and dazzling scarlet +flowers also have an imposing effect as the back row of a ribbon border.</p> + + +<p><b>LUPINUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Lupine. Hardy annual and hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Both the annual and the perennial Lupines are extremely valuable for +garden decoration and for supplying an abundance of cut blooms. Each +class includes a number of charming colours and many of the flowers are +delightfully scented. Not the least of their merits is the fact that +Lupines are not particular as to soil; indeed, the annual sorts will +often thrive on ground that is too poor for other and more fastidious +subjects.</p> + +<p>The annual varieties should be sown where intended to flower, as they do +not transplant well. Sow the seed in March, April, or May, and +subsequently allow each specimen a space of about eighteen inches for +development.</p> + +<p><i>L. polyphyllus</i> is a valuable race of perennial Lupines which, from a +sowing made in March or April and treated as annuals, will produce a +fine show in the following autumn. In order to insure a display earlier +in the season, however, many growers of these flowers prefer to sow in +June and July of the preceding year. Two varieties of <i>L. arboreus</i> form +large bushes which are distinctly ornamental when in full bloom. The +seed should be sown in June or July and the seedlings transplanted to +flowering positions before they become very large.</p> + + +<p><b>MARIGOLD</b></p> + +<p><b>Tagetes. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>Marigolds of several classes are valued for the profuse display of their +golden flowers in the later summer months. The choicest are <a name="Page_278" id="Page_278"></a>the +so-called French, or <i>Tagetes patula</i>, which have richly coloured +flowers, and some of the varieties are beautifully striped. For their +high quality these Marigolds are judged by the florists’ standards. The +African, or <i>Tagetes erecta</i>, make large bushy plants with flowers +‘piled high’ in the centre; the colours are intense orange and yellow. +in various shades. The bedding section is represented by the dwarf +varieties of <i>Tagetes patula</i>, or Dwarf French Marigolds; also by +<i>Tagetes signata,</i> a very neat plant with fine foliage and rather small +orange-coloured flowers, produced in great abundance. In hot seasons and +on dry soils this proves an admirable substitute for the Calceolaria, +which does not thrive when short of food, whereas the Tagetes bears +drought, the shade of trees, and a poor soil with patience, and up to a +certain point with advantage. Sow all these in March in a moderate heat, +and prick the plants out in the usual way, taking care finally to allot +them sunny positions. Seed may also be sown in the open ground at the +end of April or early in May.</p> + +<p>The section of Pot Marigolds, <i>Calendula officinalis</i>, includes two +remarkably handsome varieties, Orange King and Lemon Queen; the flowers +of both are large, double, perfectly formed, and are worth a place in +the choicest garden. These may be sown on the open border in March, +April, and May, and the best place for them is in the full sun on a +rather dry poor soil, but they are not particular, provided they are not +much shaded.</p> + + +<p><b>MARVEL OF PERU</b></p> + +<p><b>Mirabilis Jalapa. Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>This flower may be treated either as an annual or as a biennial. As an +annual the plants are very compact and effective, the leaves and flowers +forming round glittering masses in the late summer and autumn months. +When the roots are saved through the winter and planted out in April +larger plants are obtained, but there is no advance in quality over the +very neat and sparkling specimens raised from seed in spring. Sow in +heat in March and April, and treat in the same manner as Balsams until +the time arrives for planting out. A rich sandy loam suits them, and +they like full exposure to sunshine.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279"></a><b>MIGNONETTE</b></p> + +<p><b>Reseda odorata. Hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>Mignonette is so much prized that we must devote to it a paragraph, +although there is little to be said. In many gardens plants appear year +after year from self-sown seeds, and it will therefore be evident that +Mignonette may be grown with the utmost simplicity. As a border plant we +have but to sow where it is to remain, at different times from March to +midsummer; the one important point is to make the bed very firm; in fact +the soil should be trodden hard. It is imperative to thin early and +severely, for any one plant left alone will soon be a foot in diameter, +and in some circumstances cover a much larger area. Where bees are kept +and space can be afforded, seed should be sown in quantity, for +Mignonette honey is of the finest quality in flavour and fragrance. In +pot culture it should be remembered that Mignonette does not transplant +well; therefore, having sown, say, a dozen seeds in each of a batch of +48-or 32-sized pots, firmly filled with rich porous soil to which a +little lime or mortar rubble has been added, the young plants must be +thinned down to five, or even three, in each pot, as soon as they begin +to grow freely. If small plants are wanted early, leave five in a pot; +if larger specimens are wanted later, leave only three, or even only +one. For winter and spring, sow in August and September and keep them as +hardy as possible until it becomes necessary to put them under glass for +the winter. A further sowing for succession may be made in January or +February. Several strains of different tints are now at the command of +cultivators of this favourite flower.</p> + + +<p><b>MIMULUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Monkey Flower. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>This flower will grow in almost any soil, although a moist retentive +loam and a shady situation are best adapted for it. There are many +varieties, differing in height, and all are worth growing, both in pots +and borders. If sown in February or March, and treated as greenhouse +annuals, they will flower in the first year. It is easy to raise a large +number of plants in a cold frame, and they make a rich display in +borders and beds later in the year. Sowings in the open ground during +summer will supply plants for blooming in the following season, but the +most satisfactory course is to grow them as <a name="Page_280" id="Page_280"></a>annuals, and at the end of +the summer consign them to the waste heap. The Mimulus is quite hardy, +and the most ordinary care will suffice for it. Water in plenty it must +have, or the flowering period will be curtailed.</p> + +<p>The well-known Musk is a Mimulus (<i>M. moschatus</i>), and is as easily +grown from seed as other varieties. It makes a valuable pot plant.</p> + + +<p><b>MYOSOTIS</b></p> + +<p><b>Forget-me-not. Perennials, hardy and half-hardy</b></p> + +<p>AT one time an impression prevailed that all the varieties of Myosotis +were semi-aquatic, and could only be grown satisfactorily in very damp +shady places. And it is quite true that most of them bloom for a longer +period in a moist than in a dry soil. Still, they all flower freely, and +last a considerable time in any garden border.</p> + +<p>The only half-hardy variety that need be referred to is Sutton’s Pot +Myosotis, which is a delightful subject for flowering indoors at +Christmas time; and as Forget-me-nots are everywhere welcome, the +practice of growing plants in pots is rapidly increasing. Seed should be +sown in a cold frame in June, and the seedlings can be potted on as +required, taking care from the commencement to avoid crowding as a +precaution against mildew, to which the plants are very liable. The +strain referred to produces fine free-growing specimen plants, and a +batch should always be in reserve for cutting. For table decoration in +winter Forget-me-nots are very telling.</p> + +<p>All the hardy varieties may be sown from May to July for a brilliant +display in the following spring. The seed should be put into a prepared +seed-bed under the shelter of a wall or hedge; and in autumn the plants +must be transferred to blooming quarters at the earliest opportunity.</p> + +<p>Myosotis make an extremely effective groundwork for spring bulbs, for +which purpose <i>M. dissitiflora</i> is the most valuable.</p> + + +<p><b>NASTURTIUM—<i>see</i> TROPÆOLUM</b></p> + + +<p><b>NEMESIA STRUMOSA SUTTONI</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>THIS beautiful South African annual is remarkable for its floriferous +character, long duration of bloom, and diversity of colour. Since we +introduced it to this country in 1888 it has attained great popularity +<a name="Page_281" id="Page_281"></a>as a pot plant for table decoration, and some of the most resplendent +bedding effects in public parks and gardens have been secured with this +flower.</p> + +<p>For an early show of bloom sow in pots or pans in March under glass, +using a compost consisting largely of good fibrous loam, with the +addition of a small proportion of wood ashes. No more heat than +necessary should be used, and when the seedlings are large enough to +handle prick them off and gradually harden for planting out in May. +Other sowings may be made in May and June, and at this period of the +year the seed germinates most quickly in boxes placed in a cool shady +spot out of doors. In early summer seed may also be sown in the open +border, and by thinning to a distance of six or eight inches sturdy +plants will be secured, which will remain in bloom until quite late in +autumn.</p> + +<p>For winter and early spring flowering in pots seed should be sown in +August or September. There must be no attempt at forcing, or attenuated +worthless plants will result. A further sowing may be made in January +for blooming in the later spring months.</p> + +<p>Like the seed of Verbena, Furze, and some other subjects, the +germination of Nemesia under artificial conditions is somewhat +capricious, but no difficulty will be experienced with open-air sowings.</p> + + +<p><b>NICOTIANA</b></p> + +<p><b>Tobacco. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>The delicious fragrance of the Tobacco plant, especially during the +morning and evening, has made it a great favourite in the greenhouse and +conservatory, as well as in beds and borders near frequented paths.</p> + +<p>As a pot plant too, the Nicotiana is exceedingly useful, the large +sweet-scented white, soft pink, and rich red coloured flowers being very +attractive. A group of plants placed in the porch will, in the earlier +and later hours of the day, as the door is opened, fill the house with +their delightful perfume. Seed may be sown from January to June, and a +continuance of bloom may thus be secured during nearly nine months of +the year. Prick off the seedlings as soon as they are fit to handle, for +if sown too thickly they are liable to damp off rapidly. Gradually +harden off if required for planting out in May or June. In some places, +more especially in the South of England, Tobacco seed sown on an open +sunny border early in May will produce fine plants that will flower +freely in August.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a><b>PANSY</b></p> + +<p><b>Viola tricolor. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The popularity of this flower has been greatly extended and the culture +simplified since it became the practice to raise the required number of +plants every year from seed. For all ordinary purposes the trouble of +striking cuttings and keeping stocks in pots through the winter is mere +waste of labour and pit-room. The Pansy is a little fastidious, but not +severely so. It thrives in a cool climate, with partial shade in high +summer, and in a rich, moist, sandy soil. Notwithstanding all this, the +Pansy will grow almost anywhere and anyhow; but as fine flowers of this +old favourite are highly prized, the plant should be treated with +reasonable care to do justice to its great merits.</p> + +<p>A thick sowing is very liable to damp off: therefore sow thinly, either +in pots or boxes, in February and March. The thin sowing, moreover, +renders it possible to take out the forward plants without disturbing +the remainder. In due course transplant into pans or boxes of good soil, +and place in some cool spot where the plants may gradually harden off. +When they have become stocky, remove to beds or borders, with balls of +earth attached to the roots. Should the surrounding soil become set by +heavy rain or by watering, a slight stirring of the surface will prove +beneficial.</p> + +<p>Seed sown in the open ground during the summer months will readily +germinate, and the seedlings need no attention beyond thinning to about +six inches apart until they are ready for transferring to their proper +positions, where they will produce a mass of bloom in the following +spring.</p> + +<p>The Pansy puts forth its buds very early in the year. Whether they are +particularly tasty, or the scarcity of young vegetable growth gives them +undue prominence, we know not, but certain it is that sparrows show a +marked partiality for them. And having once acquired a taste for the +buds, these impudent marauders will not leave them alone; they evidently +regard Pansies as the perfection of a winter salad. Their depredations +can be prevented by an application of water flavoured with quassia or +paraffin oil, which must be repeated after rain.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a><b>PELARGONIUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Greenhouse perennial</b></p> + +<p>All kinds of Pelargonium may be raised from seed with the certainty of +giving satisfaction if the work be well done. An amateur, who +contributed to the production of symmetrical flowers in the Zonal +section, found that under ordinary treatment Zonals began to bloom in +one hundred days from the date of sowing the seed, and some of those +that flowered earliest proved to be the finest. The cultivator will soon +discover that one rule is important, and that is to sow seed saved from +really good strains. The simplest greenhouse culture suffices to raise +Pelargoniums from seed. Some growers sow in July or August; others in +January or February. The summer sowing necessitates careful winter +keeping, and the flowers appear earlier than those from spring-sown +seed. But the spring sowing is the easier to manage, and is recommended +to all beginners. Any light, sandy loam will serve for these plants, and +it is well to flower the principal bulk of them in 48-and 32-sized pots, +for if grown to a great size the date of flowering is deferred without +any corresponding advantage.</p> + + +<p><b>PENTSTEMON</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Penstemons when grown as half-hardy annuals are a valuable addition to +beds and borders, where they produce a brilliant effect in summer. In +borders it is not advisable to plant singly, but they should be employed +in groups of not less than one dozen. It is also important to sow a +strain consisting principally of scarlet and pink shades with white +markings, as well as white flowers; under fair conditions there will be +a profusion of richly coloured blooms on stately spikes about two feet +high. Sow in heat during February or March and plant out in genial +weather. It is not necessary to keep them after flowering has finished, +although seedling Pentstemons on comparatively dry soil in favourable +districts scarcely feel the winter. Seed may also be sown in June, in +the manner usual with hardy perennials, and the plants will bloom in +advance of those which are spring-sown.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a><b>PETUNIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The Petunia affords another example of the immense strides accomplished +in the art of seed-saving. Formerly the colours were few, and the +blossoms comparatively insignificant. Now the single strains produce +large flowers, beautiful in form, including self colours and others +which are striped, blotched, and veined, in almost endless diversity. +Some are plain-edged, others elegantly fringed. The double varieties +also come so nearly true to their types that there is little necessity +for keeping a stock through the winter. Plants raised from seed of the +large-flowered strain embrace a wide range of resplendent colours, and +the doubles are perfect rosettes, exquisitely finished in form and +marking.</p> + +<p>The only way of obtaining double seedlings is to save seed from the +finest single blooms fertilised with pollen of good double flowers. +Plants raised from such seed may be relied on to produce a fair +proportion of double flowers of great beauty, and those which come +single will be of the large-flowered type.</p> + +<p>The dwarf varieties attain the height of five to eight inches only, and +make admirable edging and bedding plants. The taller strains range from +one to two feet, and are handsome subjects for border and shrubbery +work. Both dwarf and tall sections are sufficiently brilliant and +free-flowering to produce a beautiful display as pot plants in the +greenhouse and conservatory.</p> + +<p>For indoor decoration, the third week in January will be early enough to +commence operations. Two parts of leaf-mould, one of loam, and one of +sharp sand, make an excellent soil for them. Fill the pots or seed-pans +within half an inch of the rim, and press the soil firmly down. Sow +thinly on an even surface, and cover the seed with almost pure sand. +Keep the pots or pans uniformly moist with a fine rose and a light hand, +and in a temperature of about 60°. Greater heat will render the +seedlings weak and straggling. From this condition it will take some +skill and much time to redeem them; indeed, they may not produce a good +display of flowers until the season is well-nigh over. Just as the seed +is germinating is a critical time for Petunias, and a little extra +watchfulness then will be fully repaid.</p> + +<p>In February the sun has not sufficient power to do mischief, so that +shading is generally unnecessary. An even temperature and <a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a>freedom from +draughts should insure seedlings strong enough to prick off by the end +of that month. Put the plants into seed-pans about an inch apart, so +that the first leaves just touch the soil, still using a light compost.</p> + +<p>In April they should be ready for transferring to small 60-pots. +Subsequently they must be potted on as growth demands, until they reach +the 48-or even the 32-size. After re-potting place the plants in a +sheltered part of the house or frame, where shade can, if necessary, be +given until the roots are established. Frequent sprinklings of water, +and a temperature of 60° or 65°, will give them a vigorous start. The +lights ought to be put down in good time in the evening, but this must +be done with judgment, or the plants will lose their healthy colour and +assume a yellowish tinge. Insufficient drainage has a precisely similar +effect. In about ten days air may be given more freely, and then no +suitable opportunity of exposure should be lost.</p> + +<p>In raising Petunias for bedding, the same conditions are applicable; but +as it is useless to put them into the open ground until the weather is +warm and settled, the sowing need not be made until the end of February +or the beginning of March. And for bedding there is no occasion to put +the plants into larger pots than the 60-size. It will be necessary to +give these seedlings shade in their young state, after they have been +pricked off or potted.</p> + +<p>The beds or borders intended for Petunias will be better without recent +manure, for this tends to the excessive production of foliage and defers +the flowering until late in the season. Do not be tempted by the first +sunny day to put them out, but wait for settled weather. A cutting east +wind, such as we sometimes have in May, will ruin them irretrievably. +Each plant of the tall class will occupy a space of two feet, and the +dwarfs may be one foot apart.</p> + +<p>In potting Petunias, those which are weakly among the singles will +probably produce the most valued colours, and from seed sown for doubles +it may be accepted as a rule that from the feebler seedlings the finest +rosette-shaped flowers may be expected.</p> + +<p>All Petunias are impatient of being pot-bound, and this applies +especially to the double varieties. They will, if treated generously, do +ample justice to the 8-or even the 10-inch size. The growth should not +be hurried at any stage, and if the foliage has a dark, healthy, green +colour, free from blight, there will be magnificent flowers four or five +inches across. The final shift should be into a sound compost, +consisting, if possible, of good loam and leaf-mould <a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a>in equal parts, +with sufficient sand added to insure drainage. About a fortnight later +commence giving weak manure water once a week instead of the ordinary +watering, and as the buds appear it may be increased in strength, and be +administered twice a week until the flowers expand.</p> + +<p>Petunias are accommodating in their growth, and may be trained into +various forms. The pyramid and fan-shape are most common, and the least +objectionable. We confess, however, to a feeling of antipathy to +fanciful shapes in plants, no matter what they may be. It is a necessity +of our artificial conditions of culture that many of them should be +trained and tied to produce shapely specimens, but the more nearly the +gardener’s art approaches Nature, the greater pleasure we derive from +his labours.</p> + + +<p><b>PHLOX DRUMMONDII</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>Those who are acquainted with the older forms of this annual might fail +to recognise a friend under its new and improved appearance. There are +now several beautiful types, each possessing characteristics of its own, +and all producing flowers that are perfect in form and brilliant in +colour. The large-flowered section produces splendid bedding plants, but +the dwarf compact varieties are also highly prized for effective massing +and general usefulness. The latter attain a height seldom exceeding six +inches, and are therefore eminently suitable for edgings and borders, as +well as for bedding. They bloom profusely for a long period, not only in +the open ground, but also as pot plants in the greenhouse or +conservatory, where they are conspicuous for the richness of their +display.</p> + +<p>For early flowering sow seed of all the varieties in February or March +in well-drained pans or shallow boxes. Any good sifted soil, made firm, +will suit them, and every seed should be separately pressed in, allowing +about an inch between each; then cover with fine soil. This will +generally give sufficient space between the plants to save pricking off; +but if the growth becomes so strong as to render a transfer necessary, +lift every alternate plant, fill the vacant spots with soil, and those +left will have room to develop. Pot the plants that are taken out, give +them a start in a frame, and shade from direct sunshine. Phloxes should +not be coddled; the best results are always obtained from sturdy plants +which have been hardened as far <a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a>as possible by free access of air from +their earliest stage of growth. This does not imply that they are to be +rudely transferred from protection to the open air. The change can +easily be managed gradually until some genial evening makes it perfectly +safe to expose them fully. A space of about two feet each way is +required for each plant of the large-flowered class, but a more modest +allowance of nine or twelve inches will suffice for the dwarf varieties. +Before they are put out the plants must be free from aphis; if not, +fumigation should be resorted to once or twice until there is a +clearance of the pest. Seed of the annual Phlox may also be sown in the +open ground during the latter part of May, and the plants will flower +abundantly from mid-August until frost destroys them.</p> + +<p>The employment of Phlox as pot plants has already been alluded to, but +special mention must be made of Purity, which is by far the most +valuable of all the varieties for blooming indoors. The pure white +flowers, which are sweetly scented, may be produced at almost any period +of the year. They are, perhaps, more highly appreciated at Easter than +at any other time, and to insure a display at that season seed should be +sown in September or October. The plants will do well if grown on in a +cold frame, the final shift being into pots of the 48-size. When grown +under glass, Phlox should be given treatment as nearly hardy as +possible, all that is necessary in regulating temperature being the +exclusion of frost from the greenhouse or frame.</p> + + +<p><b>PHLOX, PERENNIAL</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The seed of perennial Phlox is very slow and erratic in germinating, and +from a sowing made in September the seedlings may not appear until the +following spring. Seed may also be sown in the first week of March in +shallow boxes, and put into moderate heat. In due time prick out into +boxes filled with light rich soil, and having hardened them in the usual +way, plant out a foot apart in a good bed, and help, if needful, with an +occasional watering.</p> + + +<p><b>PICOTEE</b></p> + +<p><b>Dianthus Caryophyllus fl. pi. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>Seedling Picotees are extremely robust and free-flowering, and seed +saved from the best types will produce handsome specimens.<a name="Page_288" id="Page_288"></a> The +instructions for growing Carnation—sowing in pans from April to August +and transplanting when large enough—are equally applicable to the +Picotee.</p> + + +<p><b>PINK</b></p> + +<p><b>Dianthus plumarius. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>This old English flower is valued in every garden. Both the double and +single varieties are easily raised from seed and the plants bloom with +the greatest freedom. Seed may be sown any time from April to August. +Treat the seedlings in the manner advised for Carnations, and in due +course transfer to open quarters. The foliage maintains its colour +during the severest winter, and is therefore worth consideration for +furnishing the border, to say nothing of the abundant display of +perfumed flowers which the plants afford in early summer.</p> + + +<p><b>POLYANTHUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Primula (veris) elatior. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>A sowing in February or March in pans will produce strong specimens for +flowering in the following year. Or seed may be sown from May to July on +a shady border. Prick off the seedlings when large enough to handle. The +plants should never flag for want of water, and green fly must be kept +down by syringing. Some good solution will be necessary against red +spider if through starvation in a dry situation it has been permitted to +gain a footing. All the varieties can be grown in a bed with a cool +shaded aspect. They do not require a rich soil; a strong and fibrous +loam with a little leaf-mould is sufficient. On passing out of flower +the plants will split up into several heads, when they may be separated +and potted singly. Exquisite colour effects can be created by planting +Polyanthus in association with beds of Tulips for flowering in April.</p> + + +<p><b>POPPY</b></p> + +<p><b>Papaver. Hardy annual and hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The recent developments of this flower have brought it into great and +deserved popularity, and it may be safely affirmed that few other +subjects in our gardens afford a more imposing display of brilliant +colouring during the blooming period. The delicate beauty of the<a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a> +Shirley Poppies is alone sufficient to create a reputation for the +entire class, and the huge flowers of the double varieties make a +gorgeous show. All the varieties are eminently adapted for enlivening +shrubbery borders and the sides of carriage-drives.</p> + +<p>Seeds of Annual Poppies should be sown where the plants are intended to +flower, because it is difficult to transplant with any measure of +success. During March or April sow in lines or groups, <i>and thin to +about a foot apart</i>. Large clumps of some of the bolder colours should +be sown in spots that are visible from a distance, and they will present +glowing masses of flowers.</p> + +<p>By sowing seeds of Perennial Poppies in pans in March, and putting out +the seedlings when large enough, the plants will flower the same year. +The more general practice, however, is to sow very thinly on a +well-prepared border any time from May to August. Keep the seedlings +free from weeds, and thin out if necessary. The plants may be +transferred to permanent quarters early in autumn or in the spring +months.</p> + + +<p><b>PORTULACA</b></p> + +<p><b>Purslane. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>This is a splendid subject when the weather favours it. In a dry hot +season, and on a sandy soil, Portulacas can be grown as easily as Cress. +Sowings are sometimes made early in the year in greenhouses or frames; +but as a rule it is a vain attempt. Wait until May or June, when the +weather appears settled; then put the seed into the open border, and the +lighter the soil, and the hotter the season, the more brilliant will be +the display of flowers. Sow on raised beds, in rows six or nine inches +apart, and cover the seed with sand or fine earth. If the plants appear +to be injuriously close they must be thinned. Should a period of rain +ensue, the raised beds have a distinct advantage over a flat surface, +and rows afford opportunity for stirring the soil and keeping down +weeds.</p> + + +<p><b>PRIMROSE</b></p> + +<p><b>Primula vulgaris. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The mere name of this flower is sufficient to recall visions of spring +and perhaps of happy visits to its haunts in days gone by. But many +ardent lovers of the Primrose may not know that the strains <a name="Page_290" id="Page_290"></a>which are +now in favour embrace a wide range of colour, from pure white to deep +crimson or maroon, various shades of yellow and orange, and rich blue. +In fact, in a batch of seedlings nearly every plant may differ from its +companions. They all agree, however, in possessing the delicate perfume +which is characteristic of the hardy woodland favourite. Fancy Primroses +are prized as pot and border flowers, and they fully reward florists for +all the care which has been devoted to their improvement. They will +bloom satisfactorily in any shady spot; but to grow them to perfection +requires a stiff moist loam, on the north side of some hedge or +shrubbery, where glimpses of sunshine occasionally play upon them. Here +large flowers, intense in colour, will be abundantly produced far into +the spring.</p> + +<p>The finest plants are generally obtained from a February or March sowing +made in pans or boxes. Seed may also be sown from May to July in +carefully prepared ground in the open. If inclined to take some pains in +raising the plants—and they are certainly worth it—make the summer +sowings in seed-pans in ordinary potting soil; sprinkle a little sand +over the seed, and as a finish press firmly down. Sheets of glass laid +over the pans and turned daily will prevent rapid evaporation and help +to keep the soil uniformly moist. The seedlings either may be potted +once, and then be planted out, or, if strong enough, they may be +transferred straight to flowering positions. Should this mode of +procedure be considered too troublesome, prepare a shady patch of ground +by deep digging; make it firm and level, and on this sow in shallow +drills, covering the seed very lightly. A dressing of soot over the +surface, and a cordon of ashes round it, will keep off slugs. Thin if +necessary, and when the plants are strong enough, remove to their proper +quarters. In February the buds will begin to show, and those intended +for pots should be allowed to reveal their colours before they are taken +up, so that a variety may be obtained. From a retentive soil each plant +with its surrounding earth may be taken out almost exactly of the size +required, and it should be rather smaller than the pot which has to +accommodate it. A light soil must be watered the day before the +operation, or the roots will be injuriously exposed. When potted, place +the plants in a shaded cold frame or greenhouse, allowing them plenty of +space, and withhold water until it is absolutely necessary. At first +they should be kept close, but as the roots become established gradually +give air more and more freely. Cool, slow treatment is all that is +required. Any attempt to hurry the growth will only weaken the plants +and ruin the colour of the flowers. Just before the buds <a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a>open, one or +two applications of manure water will be beneficial. When the display in +pots is over, if the plants are put out in a shady border, they may +flower again late in the season.</p> + + +<p><b>PRIMULA SINENSIS</b></p> + +<p><b>Chinese Primrose. Greenhouse annual</b></p> + +<p>The history of the Chinese Primula since it first reached this country +has an almost romantic interest. As originally received the flower was, +and now is, insignificant in size and miserably poor in colour. But +florists at once perceived in it immense possibilities. The result of +their labours, extending over many years, may be seen in the magnificent +Single, Double, and Star Primulas which now adorn conservatories, +greenhouses, and homes. From so small a beginning the range of colours +is amazing; there are snowy-white flowers in several beautiful forms, a +pure Cambridge blue, rich violet-blue, many shades of rose, pink, +scarlet, and gorgeous crimson. Almost equally striking is the +improvement in the foliage, especially the introduction of the +fern-leaf, with its diverse shades of green and richly toned +under-surface.</p> + +<p>To enjoy the bloom for a long period make successive sowings in May and +June. A further sowing may be made in July if necessary. Use new pots +which have been soaked in water; but if these are not at hand, scrub +some old pots clean, for Primulas are fastidious from the outset, and it +is by apparent trifles that some growers produce plants so immensely +superior to others treated with less care. Provide free drainage, and +place a little dry moss over the crocks. Any fairly good rich soil will +be suitable, but a mixture of equal parts of sound fibrous loam and +leaf-mould, with a small addition of silver sand, is best. Press this +compost firmly into the pots to within half an inch of the top. Water +before sowing, and sprinkle sufficient sand over the surface to cover +the soil. On this sand sow evenly and thinly, for it is well known that +the finest new Primula seed comes up irregularly, and a thin sowing +admits of the removal of plants that may be ready, without disturbing +the remainder. Cover the seed with just enough fine soil to hide the +sand, and gently press the surface. Place the pots in a sheltered part +of the greenhouse, protected from draughts and direct sunlight; a small +glazed frame will be useful for this purpose. While the seed is +germinating the temperature should not rise above 70°, or fall below +50°.<a name="Page_292" id="Page_292"></a> Immediately the plants are large enough, prick off round the rim +of small pots, and if convenient place them in a propagating box. Water +with care, and shade if necessary. When established give air, which +should be daily increased until the plants will bear placing on the +greenhouse stage. Transfer singly to thumb pots, and subsequently shift +into larger sizes as may be requisite, but never do this until the pots +are filled with roots, and always put the plants in firmly up to the +collar. During July, August, and up to the middle of September expose +freely to the air in any convenient position where shelter can be given +in unfavourable weather.</p> + +<p>Where there is no greenhouse, but only a hot-bed, it is still possible +to grow good Primulas, with care and patience. The instructions given +for treatment in the greenhouse may easily be adapted to the pit or +frame, only there must be a little more watchfulness in affording shade +on sunny days to prevent overheating.</p> + +<p>Endeavour to give the plants a robust constitution from the first, for +weak, rickety things cannot produce a satisfactory bloom. Primulas need +a long period of growth before they flower; hence they should never be +subjected to a forcing temperature. Sufficient heat must be provided to +raise the plants, but afterwards the aim should be to render Primulas as +nearly hardy as possible before cold weather sets in. There must, +however, be ample protection against frost, damp, and cutting winds.</p> + +<p><b>Primula stellata</b> (<i>Star Primula</i>).—This elegant strain of Primula, +introduced by us in 1895, has attained a high position in popular +favour. Although it is not intended to supersede or compete with the +splendid strains of <i>P. sinensis</i>, it is a most valuable addition to the +conservatory, and will be found indispensable for general decorative +work. The plants are unusually floriferous and continue in bloom for a +long time. When cut, the sprays travel well and remain fresh in water +many days. For table adornment Star Primulas are unsurpassed by any +other greenhouse flower at their own period of the year. The culture is +precisely the same as for <i>P. sinensis</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy Primula</b>.—This section, which embraces a number of very +charming species, includes the well-known <i>P. obconica grandiflora,</i> +which is almost perpetual-blooming under glass. Seed of this Primula may +be sown from February to July, from the earliest of which the plants +will flower in autumn and continue to bloom throughout the winter. In +the early stages the seedlings may be managed as already directed for +<i>P. sinensis</i>, bearing in mind that <a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a>excessive watering should be +avoided. Cool greenhouse treatment will suit the plants well.</p> + +<p>Another half-hardy variety which has recently attained wide popularity +is <i>P. malacoides</i>. The dainty flowers are produced tier upon tier to a +height of about two feet and are very sweetly perfumed. For a winter +display sow in February, and successional sowings may be made until +July. <i>P. malacoides</i> especially resents a forcing temperature. +Therefore the culture should be as nearly hardy as possible, and even in +the seedling stage the plants must have free access of air on all +suitable occasions, or they are very liable to damp off.</p> + +<p><b>Hardy Primula.</b>—A number of very elegant garden Primulas are worthy of +attention. The majority answer well when grown in borders, but they are +especially at home in rock or Alpine gardens. The family is now so large +and so variable in time of blooming that it is possible to have the +different species in flower during almost every month of the year. As a +rule, it is advisable to raise the seedlings in pots or pans placed in a +frame or greenhouse, and to transfer them to the open ground when +thoroughly hardened off.</p> + + +<p><b>RANUNCULUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>The Ranunculus can be grown either from seed or from roots. The seed is +thinly sown from January to March, in boxes four to six inches deep, +filled with good soil. A cool greenhouse or frame is the proper place +for the boxes until the spring is somewhat advanced. A little extra care +is requisite to insure free growth and a hardy constitution, and the +roots should not be turned out of the boxes until they have ceased +growing and are quite ripe; then they may be stored for planting in +November or February. For particulars on the treatment of roots, see +page 348.</p> + + +<p><b>RICINUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Castor-oil Plant. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>Although this plant flowers freely, it is grown in the sub-tropical +garden principally for its noble ornamental foliage, and also in the +shrubbery border, either alone or in conjunction with other fine +<a name="Page_294" id="Page_294"></a>subjects, such as Canna, Solanum, Nicotiana, and Wigandia. Plants of +the dwarfer varieties may also be used with very decorative effect in +conservatories and greenhouses during the summer and autumn months.</p> + +<p>To have plants ready for making a show in early summer they must be +raised as half-hardy annuals in February or March. From the commencement +a rich soil and abundant supplies of water are necessary for the +production of stately specimens. The seed is large, and may be put +singly into pots, or three or four in each, and the latter is the usual +practice. A temperature of about 60° will bring them up. If several +plants are grown in a pot, they must be separated while quite young, and +put into small pots filled with very rich soil. It is almost impossible +to have the compost too rich, so long as drainage is quite safe. When +the pot is full of roots, shift to a larger size, and commence the +process of hardening, in readiness for planting out in June. This is +worth some care, for if the plant receives a check when put out, it may +take a long time to recover, and then part of the brief growing season +will be wasted. Many gardeners never raise Ricinus in heat, but trust +entirely to a sowing in the open on the first day of May. The seeds are +put in three inches deep, in groups of three or four, and finally the +plants are thinned to one at each station.</p> + +<p>Prepare the soil in advance by deep digging and the incorporation of an +abundant supply of manure. The most effectual way of doing it is to take +out the earth to a depth of eighteen inches or two feet, and fill in +with decayed manure and loam, chiefly the former. Upon this put out the +plant, or sow seed as may be determined. If this is too great a tax on +resources, or the near presence of shrubs renders the proceeding +impossible, drive a bar into the soil, which, if light, can be readily +worked into a fair-sized hole. Fill this with rich stuff nearly to the +top, and over it either put the plant or sow seed. A heavy top-dressing +round each stem is also desirable, and the application of copious +supplies of water will carry the nourishment down to the roots. +Sub-tropical plants are only a source of disappointment under niggardly +treatment, but they amply repay all the care and generosity which a +liberal hand may lavish upon them. The plants will need the support of +stakes to save them from injury in a high wind.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a><b>SAINTPAULIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Greenhouse perennial</b></p> + +<p>A very remarkable perennial, only four inches high, obtained from +eastern tropical Africa. The plant has fleshy leaves, and the flowers, +which are produced in clusters, somewhat resemble the Violet, but are +much larger. Saintpaulia makes a beautiful table ornament, and a row of +pot plants in full bloom forms a charming margin in conservatories, +either for a stage or on the ground. The seedlings flower freely in +about six months from date of sowing, and continue in bloom through the +winter. Sowings may be made from January to March, in well-drained pots +placed in a temperature of 60° to 65°. On no account should the soil be +allowed to become dry. Subsequently the plants may be treated as +recommended for Gloxinias.</p> + + +<p><b>SALPIGLOSSIS</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>A highly ornamental half-hardy annual. The finest strains have large, +open flowers, exhibiting extraordinary combinations of colours which +range from the palest sulphur-white to orange, scarlet, and +purple-violet, all being more or less pencilled and veined with some +strong contrasting colour.</p> + +<p>If an early display is wanted, a start should be made at the end of +February or beginning of March, by sowing on a moderate hot-bed. In May +the plants will be ready for flowering quarters. Or sow in April in the +open ground where the plants are to remain, taking care to thin +severely, and the thinnings will be useful for dibbling in +out-of-the-way comers, where they will furnish acceptable material for +table decoration, for which purpose this striking flower is well +adapted.</p> + +<p>Salpiglossis make charming pot plants for the greenhouse and +conservatory. For this purpose seed should be sown in August or +September, and under cool-house treatment the plants will bloom +profusely in the following spring.</p> + + +<p><b>SALVIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy annual and half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>From a genus including 450 species a small number of Salvias have won +deserved popularity for beds and borders. In summer and early autumn the +long spikes of brilliant flowers produced by Fireball and<a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a> Scarlet Queen +make an extremely attractive display, and <i>S. patens</i> is one of the most +superb pure blue flowers seen in gardens. As a bedding plant <i>S. +argentea</i> is extensively grown for its silvery-white foliage, which +completely covers the ground. These and other perennial varieties may be +sown in pans during February and March for transfer to the open in May, +and the plants need the usual treatment of half-hardy perennials.</p> + +<p>A favourite annual variety is Blue Beard, growing eighteen inches high +and presenting long spikes of bright purple bracts. The annual Salvias +should also be sown in pans in February or March and transplanted in +May; or seed may be sown in the open border during April.</p> + + +<p><b>SCHIZANTHUS</b></p> + +<p><b>The Butterfly Flower. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>At many leading horticultural displays in recent years masses of +Schizanthus of extraordinary beauty have been exhibited with striking +success. In conservatories, greenhouses, and on dinner-tables the plants +form conspicuous ornaments and they should be freely grown for general +decorative purposes. On special occasions the pots may be plunged to +create a brilliant show of bloom as temporary beds and they are also +extremely attractive in hanging-baskets.</p> + +<p>The usual time for sowing seed to insure fine specimens is the end of +August or early in September. Either well-drained pots or shallow boxes, +filled with a good potting compost, will answer for raising the +seedlings. Sow thinly, on a smooth surface, and cover the seeds with +finely sifted soil. When the young plants appear place the pots or boxes +near the glass where they can have abundance of light and air, so that +from the start the plants may be short and healthy. Seedlings that are +thin and drawn are never worth the space they occupy. Immediately they +are large enough to handle, transfer to shallow boxes, allowing a space +of three inches to each plant. The compost to consist of sound loam and +leaf-soil in equal proportions, with the addition of sufficient coarse +sand to render the mixture porous. For two or three days keep the boxes +in a frame, which must remain closed and be shaded from sunshine until +the seedlings are established, but remove the shading whenever possible; +then give air freely, and on attaining a height of three inches the +first stopping may be done. A fortnight later the plants will be ready +for pots of the 60-size. Treat them as nearly hardy as weather may +<a name="Page_297" id="Page_297"></a>permit. Stop the shoots a second time when about six inches high, with +the object of forming bushy plants capable of yielding a bountiful +bloom. When the 60-pots are filled with roots transfer to the 48-size, +and in due time the final shift should be into pots of the 24-size. +Larger pots may, of course, be employed for very fine specimens. The +compost for this final shift ought to consist of two parts of rich loam, +one part of leaf-soil, and one part of thoroughly decayed manure; the +addition of sharp sand will be necessary. The stems to be tied out to +stakes in good time to prevent injury. Just before the flowering period +and while the plants are actually in bloom, weak liquid manure, instead +of water, once or twice a week will be beneficial. A high temperature is +not required, even in the winter months, to maintain Schizanthus in +healthy condition. From 35° to 40° is all the heat they need; in fact, +it is only requisite to keep frost at bay, and this near approach to +hardy treatment will result in fine robust plants.</p> + +<p>The Schizanthus may also be sown during March and April in pans placed +in gentle heat, the seedlings being potted on for flowering in the +conservatory or they may be put out in the open border. Towards the end +of April or in May seed may be sown out of doors.</p> + +<p>One point in the successful culture of Schizanthus should never be +forgotten. The roots must not be allowed to become pot-bound. Where this +is permitted at any stage of growth it is fatal to the development of a +handsome show of bloom.</p> + + +<p><b>SENECIO ELEGANS</b></p> + +<p><b>Jacobea. Hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>Among the double varieties, the crimson, purple, rose and white Senecios +take the lead for beauty and usefulness. They are remarkably +accommodating plants, adapted for beds or the greenhouse. Sow early in +pans or boxes, give the seedlings liberal treatment, and when bedded out +the plants will produce myriads of bright flowers, until frost puts a +stop to them. Any good soil which does not become pasty will suit, and +full exposure to sunshine is essential to the production of a rich +display of colour. In March or April seed may safely be sown in the open +ground.</p> + +<p>The Tall Single Bright Rose Jacobea is invaluable as a cut flower for +table decoration under artificial light. It rivals the Star Cineraria in +form and, being a hardy annual, it may be grown with the utmost ease.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a><b>SILENE</b></p> + +<p><b>Catchfly. Hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>Not one of the hardy annuals has established a better claim to be sown +in autumn than the Silenes. Alone, they make a very attractive display, +and they can be used with especial effect in beds planted with +Daffodils, Hyacinths, and Tulips. While the Daffodils are in full beauty +the Silenes clothe the ground with a carpet of green, and after the +foliage of the bulbs has been cut off or pinned down the Silenes furnish +a fresh display of floral beauty in advance of the summer bedders.</p> + +<p>Silenes do not thrive on heavy damp soils, but the difficulty can be +surmounted by keeping the plants in pans or boxes under a cold frame +until growing weather sets in. The plants do very well in loam, and best +of all in a dry sandy soil. The spring sowing should be made in March or +April; the autumn sowing in August or early in September.</p> + + +<p><b>SOLANUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Annual and perennial; half-hardy</b></p> + +<p>Solanums are of importance, some as greenhouse plants, and others as +sub-tropical bedders. They are somewhat tender in constitution, and must +have good cultivation in a light rich soil. A sharp look-out for red +spider is necessary, for this pest is very partial to Solanums. March is +early enough to sow the seed, but for ordinary purposes April is to be +preferred. By the middle of June the plants should be strong enough to +put out, and with genial weather will make rapid progress. Those grown +for their berries may be sown from February onwards, as it is important +to secure bushy plants before they begin to flower, and an early start +insures an early ripening of the bright, handsome fruit.</p> + + +<p><b>STATICE</b></p> + +<p><b>Sea Lavender. Hardy and half-hardy annuals and hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>It would be difficult to decide whether the Sea Lavenders are more +highly valued as border flowers or as cut material for use indoors. +Certain it is that the light and graceful sprays of delicately coloured +flowers are indispensable for house decoration, either when freshly cut +or when dried for mixing with Helichrysums and other ever<a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a>lastings in +winter. Yet Statice are very attractive when growing in the border, the +varieties of branching habit giving a long-continued display of +beautiful flowers.</p> + +<p>The half-hardy varieties should be sown from January to March in pans +placed on bottom heat. When large enough prick off the seedlings into +boxes of good light soil, and gradually harden off in readiness for +planting out in May. The hardy annual kinds also answer best when +started in pans during March or April and transferred to the open in due +course. Seed of the hardy perennial varieties should be sown in a nice +light compost any time from April to July. Put out the plants into +flowering positions when they have attained a suitable size.</p> + +<p>When grown on in pots, the half-hardy sorts make exceedingly pretty +subjects for house or conservatory decoration.</p> + + +<p><b>STOCK</b></p> + +<p><b>Mathiola. Annual and biennial half-hardy</b></p> + +<p>From the botanical standpoint Stocks comprise two main classes—the +Annual and the Biennial. So accommodating as to treatment is this +extensive family, however, that by selecting suitable sorts and sowing +at appropriate periods, it is not difficult to obtain a succession of +these delightful flowers the year through. With this object in view, our +notes are divided into four sections covering the cycle of the seasons, +as follows: Summer-flowering, or Ten-week; Intermediate varieties, for +autumn-flowering; Winter-flowering; and Spring-flowering.</p> + +<p><b>Summer-flowering, or Ten-week Stocks</b>.—These annual varieties include +a wonderful range of colours, as well as considerable diversity in the +habit of growth. For their brightness, durability, and fragrance they +are deservedly popular. It is usual to sow the seed under glass from the +middle to the end of March. Pans or shallow boxes, filled with sweet +sandy soil, make the best of seed-beds, and it may be well to say at +once that no plants pay better for care and attention than the subjects +now under consideration. Sow thinly, that the plants may have room to +become stout while yet in the seed-bed, and from the very outset +endeavour to impart a hardy constitution by giving air freely whenever +the weather is suitable. This does not mean that they are to be +subjected to some cutting blast that will cripple the plants beyond +redemption, but that no opportunity should be lost of partial or entire +exposure whenever the <a name="Page_300" id="Page_300"></a>atmosphere is sufficiently genial to benefit +them. If a cold frame on a spent hot-bed can be spared, it may be +utilised by pricking off the seedlings into it, or the pans and boxes +may simply be placed under its protection. The nearer the seedlings can +be kept to the glass, the less will be the disposition to become leggy. +In transplanting to the open ground, it is worth some trouble to induce +each plant to carry a nice ball of soil attached to its roots.</p> + +<p>On light, friable land, Ten-week Stocks can be successfully grown from +sowings made in the open about the end of April. The character of the +season must be some guide to the time chosen, and the sowing in this +case should be rather thicker than in the seed-pans. Should the seed +germinate well, severe thinning will have to be practised as growth +demands. This method of culture entirely prevents loss by mildew, which +so often proves fatal to young transplanted seedlings. It is difficult +to make the soil too good for them, and there is no comparison between +Stocks grown on a poor border and those grown in luxuriance. Some +growers make a little trench for each row of seed, and this affords a +certain degree of protection from cutting winds, and also forms a +channel for water when there is a necessity for administering it. In a +showery season, the plants will appear in about twelve days, but in dry +weather it will be longer, and one or more gentle morning waterings may +be necessary to bring them up. The distance between the rows must be +determined by the variety. Nine inches is sufficient for the dwarf +sorts; twelve or fifteen inches will not be too much for medium and tall +kinds.</p> + +<p>Slugs may be kept off by a dusting of soot or wood-ashes, and some +precaution must also be adopted to prevent birds from disturbing the +seed-bed.</p> + +<p>Here it may be well to mention a fact which is not always remembered, +although the knowledge of it is generally assumed. Seed can only be +saved from single flowers, but those who have made a study of the +business find little difficulty in selecting plants, and treating them +in such a manner that seed obtained from them will produce a large +percentage of double blossoms in the following generation. But the +experience of the most skilled growers has not enabled them to save seed +which will result entirely in double-flowering plants; and this is +scarcely to be regretted, for the perpetuation of the race is dependent +on single flowers. In keeping the various colours true there is one very +awkward fact. Certain sorts invariably produce a difference in colour +between the double and single flowers.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301"></a><b>Intermediate Stocks</b> form a valuable succession to the +Summer-flowering, or Ten-week varieties. From seed sown in gentle heat +in February or March, the plants usually commence flowering when the +earlier varieties are beginning to fade, and will continue to bloom +until winter sets in. It is also easy to grow the Intermediate section +in pots for spring decoration, if the protection of a house or pit can +be given during the winter to preserve them from frost. A simple plan is +to sow in August or early in September five or six seeds in 48-sized +pots. Thin to three plants in each, and of course a larger pot with more +plants can be used when desirable. Give air whenever possible, and water +regularly. There is no need for artificial heat; indeed, it is not well +to hurry the plants in any way. A good top-dressing of rich soil is +advisable before flowering, and as the buds appear, manure water, weak +at first, but gradually increased in strength, may be given once a week +until in full bloom.</p> + +<p><b>Winter-flowering Stocks</b>.—During the winter months Stocks afford an +immense amount of pleasure. They are particularly welcome at Christmas, +and to insure flowering plants at that season of the year suitable +varieties, such as Christmas Pink or Beauty of Nice, should be selected, +and a start made in June. As soon as the first leaf is attained, prick +off three seedlings in a three-inch pot; place in a cool frame under a +north wall, keeping the light off all day until they are ready for +another shift into six-inch pots. Use three parts of good yellow loam +and one part of leaf-soil—no sand. Pot firmly and restore to the frame +until the plants start growing, when they may be removed to the +greenhouse. Manure water, not too strong, once a week is beneficial, and +pure water should be given sparingly. Keep near the glass and ventilate +freely. Further sowings made in July and August will extend the supply +of flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Spring-flowering Stocks</b>, which include the popular Brompton strain, +come into flower in spring and early summer. Although in some seasons it +may answer to sow where the plants are required to bloom, the practice +is too precarious to be risked generally. A safer method is to sow in +seed-pans in June or July. Place these under shelter until the plants +are an inch high, then stand them in the open for a week before +transplanting. Have ready a piece of freshly-dug soil, and on a dull day +put them out at eight to twelve inches apart. If the growth is too rapid +during September, it may be advisable to lift them and plant again, for +the winter must not find them soft and succulent. There should be hard +stems and sturdy growth to carry them through the cold weather. In +districts <a name="Page_302" id="Page_302"></a>that are specially unfavourable it may be necessary to pot +each plant singly in the 60-size, and plunge these in ashes in a cold +frame, or under the shelter of a south wall, until severe weather is +past, and they can then be turned out into the borders.</p> + + +<p><b>STREPTOCARPUS</b></p> + +<p><b>Cape Primrose. Tender perennial</b></p> + +<p>The hybrids are a very striking race, invaluable for greenhouse and +conservatory decoration, producing a continuous succession of large +trumpet-shaped flowers, embracing colours ranging from pure white, +through lavender, purple, violet, rose, and red, to rich rosy-purple. +Sow very thinly from January to March in well-drained pots, and a +dusting of fine soil will sufficiently cover the seed. Place the pots in +a temperature of 60° to 65°, and take care that the soil is not allowed +to become dry. Prick off the seedlings when large enough to handle, +keeping them in the temperature named until the final potting. When +established they thrive with ordinary attention in a greenhouse, and +they winter well in a temperature ranging between 40° and 50°. Seed sown +in January and February will produce plants which will come into bloom +during the following June and July.</p> + +<p><b>Streptocarpus Wendlandii</b> is a singularly interesting variety. Only one +immense leaf is produced, which frequently attains a width of two feet, +with a proportionate length. This leaf is reflexed, completely hiding +the pot on one side, and from its midrib scapes of elegant violet-blue +flowers with white throat are thrown up to a height of eighteen inches. +The seeds should be sown in a warm greenhouse early in the year. The +plants will begin to flower in the winter and continue in bloom for +about six months. The temperature which is suitable for Gloxinias will +answer for this plant also.</p> + + +<p><b>SUNFLOWER</b></p> + +<p><b>Helianthus annuus. Hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>The utility of the Sunflower has been alluded to in a former page. Here +we have only to regard the plant in its ornamental character, as an +occupant of the shrubbery or flower border.</p> + +<p>In addition to the common species, there are several strains which are +adapted for special purposes. The dwarf varieties grow about <a name="Page_303" id="Page_303"></a>three to +four feet high, and produce fine heads of bloom. The ‘giant’ attains the +enormous height of eight or ten feet in a favourable season, and the +flowers are of immense size. The double strain generally reaches six +feet in height, and is valuable for its fine show of colour and enduring +quality. There is no difficulty, therefore, in making a selection to +suit the requirements of any border. The Sunflower can also be employed +in one or more rows to make a boundary or to hide an unsightly fence, +and some growers use it as a screen for flowers which will not bear full +sunshine.</p> + +<p>Seed may be sown very early in the season, and the plants can be brought +forward in the manner usual with half-hardy annuals, but there is no +necessity for this mode of growing them. Sow in April or May where the +plants are to flower, on soil which has been abundantly manured to a +depth of eighteen inches, and they will bloom in good time. To maintain +the rapid growth, water must not be stinted in dry weather.</p> + + +<p><b>SWEET PEA</b></p> + +<p><b>Lathyrus odoratus. Hardy climbing annual</b></p> + +<p>The history of the Sweet Pea can be traced back for more than two +hundred years; and it is almost as fascinating as an exhibition of the +flowers. Recent improvements in this highly popular subject include an +amazing diversity of colours, a marked increase in the number of flowers +on each stem, and an extraordinary enlargement in their size. A modern +list may run into hundreds, but those who grow every known variety find +that there are many close resemblances, arising no doubt from +simultaneous introductions by hybridists who have experimented on +similar lines. Enthusiastic growers of Sweet Peas are no longer content +with a limited number of named varieties, for it is obvious that in +competitions where fifty or a hundred bunches have to be staged for +certain prizes, a large and representative collection must be grown. For +general garden decoration, however, and to provide sprays for the +adornment of homes, the Giant-flowered class, offered under colours +only, will continue to be extremely popular.</p> + +<p>The change in character and the increased usefulness of Sweet Peas have +necessitated a revolution in the methods of culture. The freer growth +and more robust habit demand greater space than was formerly allowed. +Instead of crowded rows of attenuated plants, <a name="Page_304" id="Page_304"></a>producing a meagre return +of small flowers, poor in colour, it is now the practice to prepare the +ground by deep trenching and liberal manuring, and to give every plant +ample space for full development both in rows and in clumps. In the +ensuing paragraphs we outline the cultural routine which should be +followed as nearly as possible by those who desire to insure a +long-continued supply of the very finest flowers. But where +circumstances do not permit of these recommendations being adopted in +full, the details may be modified according to the materials at command +and the requirements of the cultivator.</p> + +<p>It is usual to commence the preparation of the ground in autumn. +Trenching is of paramount importance, for the roots of the Sweet Pea +require a considerable depth of good soil in which to ramify for the +support of robust healthy plants capable of producing handsome flowers +over a long season. Where the surface soil is shallow, care must be +exercised to avoid bringing uncultivated subsoil to the top, and it is +well worth incurring a little extra trouble to provide a sufficient +depth of fertile material for full root development. Therefore dig out a +wide trench and place the good top soil on one side. Then remove and +discard the subsoil to a depth of twelve inches and, after breaking up +the bottom of the trench with a fork or pickaxe, replace with an equal +quantity of decayed manure, leaves, old potting soil or any other +suitable stuff that may be on hand. Finally return the top soil to its +original position.</p> + +<p>The use of manure needs discrimination, and in fixing the quantity, as +well as in selecting the most suitable kinds, due consideration must be +given to the character of the soil. For light land, four barrow-loads of +well-rotted farmyard manure per square pole will make an excellent +dressing, but a rather smaller amount will suffice for heavy ground. In +place of farmyard manure an unlimited quantity of leaf-soil, if +obtainable, may be used, and it is also a good plan to dig in any +available green refuse. Garden ground which for some years previously +has been kept in a state of high cultivation by the liberal use of +natural manure will not, as a rule, need further help in this direction, +but it should receive a good dressing of lime. Indeed, any soil in which +Sweet Peas are to be grown should contain not less than two per cent. of +lime. The employment of artificial, as well as organic, manures is +essential in any first-class scheme of cultivation. But here a word of +warning is necessary. Nitrogenous manures in any form are harmful to the +plant when applied in large quantities, and are liable to predispose it +to disease, except on <a name="Page_305" id="Page_305"></a>extreme types of sandy soil. Heavy ground should +be dressed with seven pounds of basic slag in autumn and two pounds of +sulphate of potash in spring. On light soils apply in spring four pounds +of superphosphate of lime and two pounds of sulphate of potash. The +quantities stated in each case are sufficient for a square pole of +ground. Wood ashes (in a dry state) are also of great value, and these +should be raked in a little in advance of planting out.</p> + +<p>The special preparation of the soil just described entails the raising +of plants in pots or boxes in readiness for transfer to the open as +early as weather permits in spring. The finest flowers are undoubtedly +obtained from an autumn sowing, and about the middle of September may be +regarded as the best period for putting in the seed. This early +commencement possesses the advantage of allowing ample time for the +development of sturdy, well-rooted plants, which will not only bloom in +advance of those sown in spring but will remain in flower for an +unusually long period. Sow in light porous soil, and either three-inch +pots, pans or boxes may be used. Place in a cold frame and keep the +lights down until the seeds have germinated, but afterwards the frame +should never be closed except during severe weather. There must be no +misunderstanding on the question of air-giving. The Sweet Pea is almost +hardy, and robust healthy seedlings, grown as nearly as possible under +natural conditions, are wanted. Therefore to subject the plant to +artificial heat will only defeat the object in view. A current of air +should be admitted to the frame day and night, and the lights may be +entirely removed on all favourable occasions. But the seedlings will +need protection from excessive moisture, for if too wet at the roots +they are liable to injury from frost. When four pairs of leaves are +formed, stop each plant once, and after a little further progress has +been made transplant singly into three-inch pots. Keep the pots in the +frame, giving only such protection from hard weather as may be +absolutely necessary, and plant out on the first suitable opportunity. +In the South transplanting may be possible late in February or at the +opening of March, but a month later will be safer in districts north of +the Trent.</p> + +<p>Those who for any reason do not find it convenient to sow in autumn may +start the seed early in the year—from mid-January onwards, according to +the district. The general principles described in the preceding +paragraph apply equally to spring sowings, but it may be well to say +that there must be no attempt to hasten growth by the application of a +high temperature. A frame will afford all the <a name="Page_306" id="Page_306"></a>protection necessary, and +even a box covered with glass and placed in a sheltered spot will be +found serviceable for raising seedlings.</p> + +<p>Before planting out, the top soil of the ground prepared in autumn must +be well worked and made friable. The disposition of the plants, and the +method adopted for staking them, will, to a great extent, depend on the +precise purpose for which the flowers are required. For garden +decoration single rows answer well, and the plants should be spaced one +foot apart. Or, if preferred, put out in clumps of three to five plants, +allowing a diameter of from nine to fifteen inches. Carefully remove the +plants from the pots or boxes in which they were raised, disentangle the +roots and shake them quite free from soil. Make a hole of the necessary +depth, and allow the roots to descend into the ground to their full +extent, which may be as much as two feet in the case of well-grown +specimens from autumn-sown seed. Give support immediately with +well-branched twigs, and it is important that the plants be kept +perfectly upright. Finally stake with bushy hazel sticks eight to ten +feet in height, or taller still where the ground has been generously +prepared.</p> + +<p>Long-stemmed flowers free from blemish are essential for show work and +for the highest forms of house decoration, and to insure an adequate +supply over an extended period the following method, which is adopted by +some of the most successful exhibitors, is strongly to be recommended. +The plants are put out in double rows one foot apart, and spaced a foot +apart in the lines. Each plant should carry two shoots only, both of +which must be provided with a rod of bamboo, ash, or hazel, ten to +twelve feet in length. For this double cordon system the rods will stand +six inches apart in the rows, and it is desirable to make them secure +against damage from high winds. Insert a stout pole at each end of the +row, and about seven feet from the ground-level fix to each pole a +substantial wooden crosspiece a little more than a foot in length. From +these cross-pieces tightly stretch strands of wire, to which securely +tie the rods. As growth develops commence disbudding promptly, regularly +remove all laterals and tendrils, and tie each cordon to its supporting +rod with raffia as often as may be necessary.</p> + +<p>After transfer to the open ground the plants must never be allowed to +become dry at the roots. Keep the hoe going between the rows, especially +after the soil has been beaten down by rain.</p> + +<p>The blooming period can be prolonged by the simple expedient of daily +removing the dead or faded flowers. The ripening of only a few seed-pods +speedily puts a stop to flowering.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307"></a>In the open ground seed may be sown in spring from February to May, and +successional sowings at intervals of a fortnight will extend the supply +of flowers far into autumnal days. Even where a few clumps only can be +grown it is unwise to depend on a single sowing. Autumn sowings outdoors +are often made in September or October where a warm soil and favourable +situation can be insured.</p> + +<p>Sweet Peas have two principal foes, the slug and the sparrow. Against +the former the usual precautions, such as ashes, old soot, lime, and +various traps, are available; and the latter must by some means be +prevented from doing mischief. After the buds show through the soil, it +is generally too late for the adoption of remedies. Nearly all the heads +will be found nipped off and laid ready for inspection. One could almost +forgive the marauders were food the object, but the birds appear to +commit havoc from pure wantonness, and whole rows are sometimes +destroyed in a single morning.</p> + +<p>Early sprays are so much prized that the practice of flowering Sweet +Peas in pots under glass is yearly increasing, and for this purpose seed +must be sown in August or September; the plants to be kept slowly moving +during the dark days. In February the growth will be more rapid, but it +is important to give the plants the hardiest possible treatment. In +April, if properly managed, there will be a brilliant display.</p> + +<p>The winter-flowering race blooms freely at a still earlier period, +although the plants are less vigorous than other varieties.</p> + + +<p><b>SWEET WILLIAM</b></p> + +<p><b>Dianthus barbatus. Hardy biennial</b></p> + + +<p>Sweet William belongs to the same genus as the Pink. The finest strains +produce superb heads of flowers, some of them intensely rich in colour, +while others have a contrasting edge. The new varieties are so marked an +advance on older colours that they have created a fresh interest in this +favourite garden flower.</p> + +<p>In several instances we have advised that biennials and perennials +should be treated as annuals, both on the ground of economy and for the +excellent results obtained by this practice. But the Sweet William is +not amenable to any treatment which reduces the natural period of +growth.</p> + +<p>Seed may be sown in May, June or July for transplanting in autumn, and +the numerous colours afford opportunity of obtaining a great diversity +of splendid effects in beds and borders.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308"></a><b>TOBACCO</b>—<i>see</i> <b>NICOTIANA</b></p> + + +<p><b>TORENIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Greenhouse annual</b></p> + +<p>Sow in a warm temperature in March or April. Prick off while small into +pots, and subsequently pot the seedlings singly. Any fairly good compost +will suit them. The branches need support, and the plants must be kept +free from green fly. The Torenias make very elegant pot plants, and they +are also well adapted for hanging baskets and other ornamental +contrivances.</p> + + +<p><b>TROPÆOLUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Nasturtium, or Indian Cress. Hardy and half-hardy annuals</b></p> + +<p>The <i>Tropæolum tuberosum</i> is treated under the ‘Culture of Flowering +Bulbs,’ so that here we have only to consider the varieties that are +grown from seed. There are two distinct classes, both widely cultivated, +for the seed is inexpensive, and the plants extremely showy durable, and +easily raised.</p> + +<p><i>Tropæolum majus</i> is the climbing Nasturtium, or great Indian Cress. The +flower as originally obtained from Peru was a rich orange, marked with +deep reddish-brown, but it has been developed into various shades of +yellow and red, culminating in a tint which is almost black. The leaves +are nearly circular, and are attached to the long footstalks by the +centre instead of at the margin. Loudon fancifully compares the leaf to +a buckler, and the flower to a helmet. The Lobbianum section is close in +habit, with smaller foliage borne on somewhat woolly stems. All the +varieties bloom freely, and constitute a brilliant class of climbers of +great value for brightening the backs of borders or hiding unsightly +objects. After the seeds have been dibbled about an inch deep in either +April or May, the only attention the plants require is to nip out a +straggling shoot occasionally, or prevent a stray branch from reaching +over and smothering some plant which will not endure its embraces.</p> + +<p>The well-known Canary Creeper (<i>T. canariense</i>) is a perfectly distinct +variety, and as a half-hardy annual should be raised under protection +and planted out in May, although sowings in the open ground in April and +May often prove satisfactory. Unlike the others, it needs a rich soil to +insure vigorous growth. When liberally treated the entire plant will be +covered with its bright fairy-like flowers, until frost ends its career.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309"></a><i>Tropæolum majus nanum.</i>—The Tom Thumb, or Dwarf varieties, make +excellent bedding plants, blooming far on into the autumn after many of +the regular bedders have faded and become shabby. There is an extensive +choice of colours in reds, yellows, and browns, which come perfectly +true from seed, and all possess the merit of flowering freely on very +poor soil. They grow luxuriantly on rich land, but then the foliage +becomes a mere mask under which the flowers are concealed. There is not +one of the Tom Thumb class that may not be treated as a hardy annual, +and all afford opportunity of making a gorgeous show of colour at a cost +ridiculously disproportionate to the effect obtained. They are also +admirably adapted for pot culture, making shapely plants covered with +bloom for a long period.</p> + +<p>Many of the later introductions in Nasturtium are notable for their +refined and delicate colouring, and are extremely desirable subjects for +the decoration of the dinner-table and small vases in the drawing-room.</p> + +<p>As the flavour of the flowers and leaves somewhat resembles that of +common Cress, they are frequently used in salads, and are accounted an +excellent anti-scorbutic. The flowers are legitimately employed in +decorating the salad-bowl, because they are not only ornamental but +strictly edible.</p> + +<p>In a green state the seeds of both tall and dwarf varieties make an +excellent pickle which is occasionally used as a substitute for capers.</p> + + +<p><b>VERBENA</b></p> + +<p><b>Hardy and half-hardy perennials</b></p> + +<p>VERBENAS raised from the best strains of seed come true to colour and +the plants are models of health and vigour, and make resplendent beds. +It is of the utmost importance to remember that the Verbena requires +very little of the artificial heat to which it is commonly subjected, +and which fully accounts for the frequency of disease among plants +propagated from cuttings. Seed may be sown in boxes in January, +February, and March, the earlier sowings naturally requiring more heat +than the later ones. As the seedlings become large enough, they should +be potted on and planted out in May, when they will flower throughout +the summer, and far into the autumn.</p> + +<p>Verbenas may also be sown in March or April in boxes, put into a frame, +and if kept moist a lot of plants will appear in about <a name="Page_310" id="Page_310"></a>a month. When +large enough these must be carefully lifted and potted. A rich, mellow, +and very sweet soil is needed by the Verbena. Many of the failures that +occur in its cultivation are not only traceable to the coddling of the +plant under glass, but also to the careless way in which it is often +planted on poor worn-out soil that has been cropped for years without +manure, or even the sweetening effects of a good digging. Raising +Verbenas from seed has restored this plant to the list of easily grown +and thoroughly useful flowers for the parterre.</p> + +<p>The hardy perennial <i>V. venosa</i> also comes perfectly true and uniform +from seed.</p> + + +<p><b>VIOLA</b></p> + +<p><b>Tufted Pansy. Hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>This plant well merits its popularity for use in beds and borders. It is +perfectly hardy, the habit is good, and it continues in bloom for +several months in the year. The treatment prescribed for Pansy is also +suitable for Viola.</p> + + +<p><b>WALLFLOWER</b></p> + +<p><b>Cheiranthus Cheiri. Hardy biennial</b></p> + +<p>Wallflowers are often sown too late. As a result the growth is not +thoroughly matured, and the plants present but a feeble show of bloom. +They should in their season be little mounds of fire and gold, exhaling +a perfume that few flowers can equal in its peculiar freshness. Sow the +seed in May or June, in a sunny place, on rather poor, but sweet and +well-prepared soil favourable to free rooting. When the plants are two +inches high, transplant into rows six inches asunder, allowing three +inches apart in the row, and as soon as the plants overlap transplant +again, six or nine inches apart every way, aiding with water when +needful to help them to new growth. Or lift every other row and every +other plant, leaving the remainder untouched to supply flowers for +cutting. When the beds are cleared of their summer occupants, they may +be filled with the best plants of Wallflower, to afford cheerful green +leafage all through the winter and a grand show of bloom in the spring, +as frost will not hurt the single varieties; but the doubles will not +always endure the rigours of a severe winter.</p> + +<p><b>Early-flowering Varieties.</b>—By selection and cross-fertilisation an +early-flowering race of Wallflowers has been obtained, and it <a name="Page_311" id="Page_311"></a>is now +possible to enjoy for many months of the year a fragrance which has +hitherto been associated exclusively with spring. From a sowing made in +May or June the plants commence flowering in autumn and continue +throughout the winter, unless checked by frost. With the advent of +spring weather, however, they burst into full bloom, making a delightful +display in advance of the ordinary varieties.</p> + + +<p><b>WIGANDIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Half-hardy perennial</b></p> + +<p>This plant is grown for its foliage, and is extensively used in +sub-tropical gardening. The instructions given for raising Ricinus in +heat apply equally to this subject; but it is not wise to rely on an +open-air sowing for a supply of Wigandias.</p> + + +<p><b>ZINNIA</b></p> + +<p><b>Zinnia elegans. Half-hardy annual</b></p> + +<p>THE double varieties of Zinnia have entirely eclipsed the single form of +this flower. They grow to an immense size and are extremely valuable for +beds and borders, the plants remaining in bloom for a considerable +period. Double Zinnias are so varied in colour and beautiful in form +that they deserve to take high rank as exhibition flowers.</p> + +<p>The Zinnia is delicate, and should not be sown too soon. March is quite +early enough to commence operations, and the first week in April will be +none too late for sowing. A compost that suits Asters will answer +admirably for Zinnias. Sow in 4-1/2 inch pots, which should have very +free drainage, and cover the seed thinly with fine soil. Plunge the pots +at once in a temperature of about 60°, when the seed will germinate +quickly, and the plants on attaining one inch in height can be potted +off separately. Place them in a close frame, shade from sunshine, and +when well established, gradually give air and harden off. It will not be +safe to transfer to the open until the first week in June, unless the +position is exceptionally sheltered and the soil very dry. A shrubbery +border is a suitable spot, and the more scorching the season the finer +will be the flowers. There must, however, be shelter from the wind, for +the stems of Zinnias are hollow, and easily damaged by a storm.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312"></a>A satisfactory display of this flower may be obtained without the aid +of heat by sowing in the open ground about the middle of May. Select a +sunny sloping border or bed for sowing, enrich the soil, and make it +fine. Press this down rather firmly, then drop three or four seeds at +intervals of from fifteen to eighteen inches between each group, and +lightly cover them. In due time thin to one plant at each station. If +they thrive the branches will not only meet but overlap, and produce a +grand display. In the event of very dry weather at sowing time the +ground may be watered before the seed is put in, and then be covered +with dry fine soil.</p> + +<p>Zinnias do not transplant well, except as small seedlings. When it is +necessary to undertake the task, choose, if possible, a showery day, and +shade each plant with an inverted flower-pot for a few days, but take +off the pots in the evening.</p> + +<p>Zinnias intended for exhibition must be treated in a more generous +fashion than plants that are grown for border decoration, or for the +sake of yielding cut flowers. The seed may be raised in heat as already +directed, but the border will need to be prepared with special care and +liberality. Should the soil be heavy, it must be reduced to a friable +state during winter. Before the plants are put in, raise the land into +ridges about four or five inches high. Plant on the top of the ridge, +and then an application of soot or lime (not too near to inflict injury) +may be used as a precaution against slugs. In a wet season the plants +will stand a better chance than if put on the flat, and if a scorching +summer comes they will be none the worse for it. As the flowering time +approaches mulch the ground with well-decayed manure.</p> + +<p>The plants must be carefully staked and tied out. It is not merely +necessary to secure the main stem, but the branches should also be +supported, or when weighted with flowers they will be very liable to +give way under a moderate wind. Superfluous branches may be removed, but +not so severely as to start new growth to the detriment of the flowers. +Disbudding also will have to be practised for the highest class of +flowers. Only one bloom should be allowed to develop on each branch at a +time, and this must be protected from sun and rain after it is about +half grown.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313"></a><b>SPRING FLOWERS FROM SEEDS</b></p> + +<p>It is the spring flowers that perhaps give the greatest charm and +interest to the English garden. Commencing with the flowering trees, the +Almond, Double Peach, <i>Prunus Pissardi</i>, and many others, we soon have +the Daffodils, Wallflowers, and Pansies, making the ground bright and +gay after the long dreary winter. It may promote economy in the +production of these brilliant and charming displays if we offer a few +remarks on the employment of spring-flowering plants which can easily be +raised for the purpose from seeds. It will, of course, occur to the +reader that a considerable proportion of the annuals that are usually +sown in autumn are particularly adapted for producing rich and varied +displays in spring. A type of this class is found in the well-known +Erysimum, Orange Gem, one of the cheapest, hardiest, and most +resplendent plants of the kind, cheap enough for the humblest amateur to +employ freely in his borders and beds, and at the same time so effective +in its colouring as to be adapted for the most complex and highly +finished examples of geometric work. Another striking subject is the +Siberian Wallflower (<i>Cheiranthus Allionii</i>), so nearly allied to the +Erysimum, Orange Gem, the gorgeous orange flowers adding a fresh colour +to the many new shades given us in recent years by the old English +Wallflower. Among the annuals are several valuable spring flowers—such +as, for example, <i>Nemophila insignis</i>, well known for its lovely blue +blossoms, and the white variety, <i>alba</i>, of the same; <i>Saponaria +calabrica,</i> exquisite rosy pink; Silene, rose, dwarf rose, and dwarf +white; Virginian Stock, of which the distinct varieties are remarkably +well adapted to form bands and masses of red, white, and yellow, and +also to make a delightful groundwork for enhancing the splendour of late +Tulips; and clumps of Aubrietia, Yellow Alyssum, and other of the more +distinctive plants that are employed in high colouring in first-class +geometric gardening. A list of such plants will at once indicate that +there is a field of enterprise for the practitioner of spring flower +gardening; and while cheap and effective materials are thus brought into +the service, there is no interference with the later summer bedding, +because, if the annuals are well managed, they will give their plentiful +bloom when the garden is most in need of colour, and may be cleared off +in time to make way for the plants that are generally employed in the +summer display and which are known as ‘bedding plants’ <i>par +excellence</i>.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314"></a>In the management of annuals for an early bloom, it is of great +importance to sow them at a proper time, so that they will be strong +enough to perform what is required of them, and yet not so forward (or +‘winter proud’) as to suffer from the severity of the weather. In the +North the middle of August is none too early for a general sowing in +beds, and in the South the middle of September is none too late. In some +few sheltered spots in the extreme South-West seed may be got in at the +middle of October. As a rule, however, the sowing should be made as late +as those familiar with the soil and climate of the place may deem safe, +the main point being to have the seedlings in a short-jointed condition, +close to the ground, in which state they are least likely to be injured +by frosts. We prefer sowing in drills on a rather poor soil well broken +up to a kindly state, and if the weather happens to be dry, the drills +should be freely watered before the seed is sown, and there will be no +more watering needed. The after-management is extremely simple: the +plants must be kept clear of weeds, and be slightly thinned out if much +crowded, for a few sturdy specimens are of more value than any number +that have run up weak and wiry through overcrowding.</p> + +<p>In sheltered gardens, having dry chalk or sandy soils, the greater part, +or perhaps the whole stock, might be transplanted from the seed-beds to +the flower-beds and borders as soon as sufficient growth has been made; +but on heavy soils and in exposed places it will be advisable to delay +the removal until March. This part of the work must be nicely done, the +plants being lifted in clumps and no attempt made to single them, and +they must be carefully pressed in and aided with water, if necessary, to +promote a quick ‘taking hold’ of their new quarters. Those planted out +in October on a dry soil will not only bloom early and gaily, but will +be beautiful in their different tints of green all the winter through.</p> + +<p>But we are not restricted to annuals in seeking for spring flowers from +seeds. With very few exceptions, <i>all</i> the favourite plants of the +spring garden may be grown from seeds at a cost almost infinitesimal as +compared with the raising of named varieties from cuttings and +divisions. Daisies, some of them now almost as large as Asters, are not +only suited to the ribbon border, but make an amazingly brilliant show +when the white, pink, and crimson are planted in masses or in separate +beds. Seedlings flower with far greater freedom and produce much larger +blooms than divided plants, and even after the first few weeks, when the +later flowers become smaller and less perfect in form, a brilliant +display is maintained till late in the summer if the <a name="Page_315" id="Page_315"></a>beds are not +wanted for other things. Pansies, which are still unsurpassed for beds +and borders, are easily raised from seed. What is more interesting than +a long row of plants of Perfection Pansy beside the pathway? every step +brings one to a flower of perfect charm, quite different in marking or +colour from any other. The several species and varieties of Arabis, +Alyssum, Aubrietia, Viola, Polyanthus, Iberis, and Forget-me-not also +come quite true from seed. The precision of style and colouring that +results from raising these from cuttings is, of course, admitted; but in +forming masses and ribbon lines, minute individual characters are of +less consequence than a good general effect, and this may be insured by +raising the plants from seed in a manner so cheap and expeditious that +we feel assured spring bedding would be more often seen in its proper +freshness and fulness were the system we now recommend adopted in place +of the tedious one of multiplication by offsets and cuttings.</p> + +<p>Wallflowers cannot be grown in too great numbers in any garden, for +either their delightful perfume or charming colour effect. The striking +displays to be seen in some of our public parks and on seaside fronts +have done much to popularise this old favourite flower. Since the first +edition of this book was issued, many new and remarkable colours in +Wallflowers have been introduced, among the last, but by no means least, +being the Fire King and Orange Bedder. It is by the blending of the +colours that the most telling effects can be produced. Probably Blood +Red, a very inadequate name, and Cloth of Gold will always be the most +favourite combination, and when planted together one sets off the other +to a degree little thought of when these varieties are grown separately. +Purple and the other yellows (Faerie Queene and Monarch) also make a +pleasing bed. Fire King and Orange Bedder should be grown in masses, +separately or together, and when seen in the late afternoon or early +evening their vivid and gorgeous colouring is almost unsurpassed by any +other flower. The early-flowering Wallflowers will, in mild winters, +bloom from January till April, or even as early as Christmas.</p> + +<p>It should not be forgotten that these biennial and perennial plants +require more time to prepare themselves for flowering than do the +annuals. If sown in August they may not bloom at all the next season, or +the bloom may be late and insignificant. But if sown in May and June +they have a long season of growth before winter sets in, and at the turn +of spring the plants will be matured and strongly set for bloom.</p> + +<p>The sowing of biennial and perennial plants for a display of spring +<a name="Page_316" id="Page_316"></a>flowers must be carefully done. The ground should be moderately rich +and quite mellow through being well broken up; in other words, a good +seed-bed must be prepared. If the weather is dry, the drills should be +watered before the seed is sown; and in the event of a drought, the +young plants must have the aid of water to keep them going through the +summer. The seed should be sown thinly, and, as soon as the plants are +large enough, they should be thinned out if at all crowded, and the +thinnings can be planted in rows and shaded for a while. As a rule, the +whole of the work will be comprised in sowing, thinning, and weeding. In +average seasons they will not require watering, and in this matter alone +will be seen the advantage of raising from seeds instead of cuttings.</p> + +<p>Ordinary care, with such plants as we have named, will insure a splendid +display of spring flowers; and they are worth whatever attention may be +necessary to promote complete and early development. It may happen that +plants from early sowings will show a few flowers in autumn if +neglected. This is easily prevented, to the great advantage of the +plants, by the simple process of ‘stopping’ or nipping out the points of +the leading shoots to cause the production of side shoots. If a sturdy +growth is thus secured, and the plants are transferred to the +flower-beds in October, the result will justify the labour.</p> + +<p>Practical gardeners will not need to be informed that the system we now +propose is capable of many applications and expansions; but it may be +suggested to amateurs who lament the dreary aspect of their beds and +borders in the month of May and early part of June, that the plants we +recommend for the formation of masses in the geometric garden are +equally well adapted to form beautiful clumps and sheets on borders, +banks, and rockeries, as well as in many instances to serve as a +groundwork to Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, and other splendid hardy +spring flowers.</p> + +<p>Sweet Peas deserve to be considered separately. These flowers are now so +varied and exquisitely beautiful that they never appear in the garden +too early. From autumn sowings not only are the most forward blooms +obtained, but for size and intensity of colour the flowers are +unsurpassed by the later displays from spring sowings.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317"></a> +<a name="THE_CULTURE_OF_FLOWERING_BULBS" id="THE_CULTURE_OF_FLOWERING_BULBS"></a> +THE CULTURE OF FLOWERING BULBS</h2> + +<p>Our popular flowering bulbs are obtained from many lands; they are +exceedingly diversified in character, and they bloom at different +periods of the year. Each variety has a value of its own, and answers to +some special requirement in its proper season under glass or in the open +ground. In the darkest winter days we prize the glow of Tulips and +Hyacinths for brightening our homes. And bleak days are not all past +when Aconites and Snowdrops sparkle in beds and borders. The Anemones +follow in March, and during the lengthening days of spring there are +sumptuous beds of Hyacinths, Narcissi, and Tulips. When high summer +begins to decline we have stately groups of Gladioli and many beautiful +Lilies in the shrubbery borders.</p> + +<p>Not least among the merits of Dutch Bulbs is the ease with which they +can be forced into flower at a period of the year when bright blossoms +are particularly precious, and they are equally available for the +grandest conservatory or the humblest cottage window. They are +attractive singly in pots or vases, or they can be arranged in splendid +banks and groups for the highest decorative purposes. Another advantage +is that bulbs endure treatment which would be fatal to many other +flowers. They can be grown in small pots, or be almost packed together +in boxes or seed-pans; and when near perfection they may be shaken out +and have the roots washed for glasses, ferneries, and small aquaria; or +they can be replanted close together in sand, and covered with green +moss. Their <a name="Page_318" id="Page_318"></a>hardiness, too, permits of their being grown and +successfully flowered without the least aid from artificial heat. Small +beds and borders may be made brilliant with these flowers, and the +number of bulbs that can be planted in a very limited space is somewhat +astonishing to a novice. Unlike many other subjects, bulbs may be rather +crowded without injury to individual specimens.</p> + +<p>For the decoration of windows no other flowers can compare with Dutch +Bulbs in variety and brilliancy of colour. Some of them are not +particularly long-lived, and this need occasion no regret, for it +affords opportunity of making constant changes in the character and +colour of the miniature exhibition, which may easily be extended over +many weeks. And a really beautiful display is within reach of those who +have not a scrap of garden in which to bring an ordinary plant to +perfection. Unused attics and lead flats can, with a little skill and +attention in the case of bulbs, be made to answer the purpose which pits +and greenhouses serve for many of our showy plants. Some of the most +attractive flowering plants cannot be successfully grown in large +centres of population, but bulbs will produce handsome blossoms even in +smoky towns.</p> + +<p>We do not recommend the attempt to grow bulbs in the actual +window-boxes. It is seldom entirely satisfactory. They should be treated +in the manner advised under the several varieties in the following +pages, and just as the colours are becoming visible, a selection can be +made from pots or boxes for crowding closely in the ornamental +arrangements for the window. When the first occupants show signs of +fading, others can be brought forward to fill their places, and this +process may be repeated until the stock is exhausted. Winter Aconites, +Snowdrops, Squills, and Glory of the Snow furnish the earliest display; +these to be followed by Crocuses, Tulips, Hyacinths, and the many forms +of the great Narciss family, until spring is far advanced.</p> + +<p>The secret of their accommodating nature lies in the fact that within +the Hyacinth or Tulip every petal of the coming flower is already +stored. During the five or six years of its progressive life the +capacities of the bulb have been steadily conserved, and we have but to +unfold its beauty, aiming at short stout growth and intensity of colour. +Of course there is an immense difference in the quality of bulbs, and +they necessarily vary according to the character of the season. The most +successful growers cannot insure uniformity in any one variety year +after year, because the seasons are beyond human control. But those who +regularly visit the bulb farms <a name="Page_319" id="Page_319"></a>can obtain the finest roots of the year, +although it may be necessary to select from many sources.</p> + +<p>Such bulbs as Lilies, Iris, Montbretia, Hyacinthus, and Alstroemeria +suffer no deterioration after the first year’s flowering. Indeed, it +will be the cultivator’s fault if they do not increase in number and +carry finer heads of bloom in succeeding years. As outdoor subjects some +of them are not yet appreciated at their full value. Magnificent as +<i>Lilium auratum</i> and <i>L. lancifolium</i> must ever be in conservatories, +they exhibit their imposing proportions to greater advantage, and their +wealth of perfume is far more acceptable, when grown among handsome +shrubs in the border. Very little attention is needed to bring them up +year after year in ever-increasing loveliness.</p> + +<p><b>Growing Bulbs in Moss-fibre.</b>—A most interesting method of growing +bulbs is to place them in bowls and jardinières filled with prepared +moss-fibre, and far better results for home decoration may be obtained +in this way than by using ordinary potting soil in vases, &c. For this +system of culture no drainage is necessary, and the bowls and vases +which are specially made for the purpose are not pierced with the usual +holes for the escape of water. The receptacles are non-porous and may be +placed on tables and columns, or they can be employed in halls and +corridors without the slightest risk of injury. The fibre is perfectly +clean to handle, odourless, and remains sweet for an indefinite period.</p> + +<p>Vases of any kind may be used, provided they are non-porous, but the +bulbs to be planted in them should be of a suitable size. For quite +small jardinières, white and purple Crocuses, Scillas, Snowdrops, and +Grape Hyacinths are available, also the smaller varieties of Narcissi. +Larger vases will accommodate Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c. It is +better not to mix different kinds of bulbs in one bowl unless +simultaneous flowering can be insured. The specially prepared fibre +needs only to be moistened before use. Having selected suitable +receptacles for the bulbs to be grown, place a few pieces of charcoal at +the bottom of each bowl. Then cover the charcoal with one to three +inches of moistened fibre according to the depth of the bowl, placing +the bulbs in positions so that their tips reach to within half-inch of +the rim. The spaces between and around the bulbs to be filled with +moistened fibre, carefully firmed in by hand. The bulbs will require +practically no attention for the first few weeks and may be stood in a +warm, airy position, but on no account must they be shut up in a close +cupboard. If the fibre has been properly moistened there will be no need +to give <a name="Page_320" id="Page_320"></a>water until the shoots are an inch or so long, but the fibre +must not be allowed to go dry, or the flower-buds become ‘blind.’ The +surface of the fibre should always look moist, but if too much water has +been given the bowl may be held carefully on its side so that the +surplus water can drain away. As the growth increases more water will be +required and all the light possible must be given to insure sturdy +foliage. This fibre also answers admirably instead of water for +Hyacinths grown in glasses, but care should be taken to fill the glasses +as lightly as possible with the compost; if crammed in tightly the root +growth is liable to lift the bulbs out of position.</p> + + +<p><b>ACHIMENES</b></p> + +<p>Showy stove bulbs remarkable for their beauty. Given a sufficiency of +heat, the cultivation is of the easiest nature, for they grow rapidly +and flower freely, if potted in sandy peat, and kept in a warm +greenhouse or the coolest part of a stove, in a somewhat humid +atmosphere. It needs only the simplest management to have these plants +in bloom at almost any season of the year, for the bulbs may be kept +dormant for a considerable length of time without injury, and may be +started into growth as required to keep up a long succession of flowers. +They are occasionally well grown in common frames over hot-beds. For +suspended baskets Achimenes are invaluable.</p> + + +<p><b>AGAPANTHUS</b></p> + +<p>In favoured districts on the South coast this noble plant succeeds +admirably if planted out between September and March in a rich, deep, +moist loam, either in full sun or in partial shade. When grown in pots +it requires a strong loamy soil, with plenty of manure, and throughout +the summer the pots should be allowed to stand in pans of water. As the +Agapanthus is a gross-feeding plant, it should be re-potted annually in +autumn, and be wintered in a cool pit or frame. In transferring to new +pots a little care must be taken to avoid injuring the mass of fleshy +roots.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321"></a><b>ALLIUM</b></p> + +<p>The <i>Allium neapolitanum</i> is the finest white-flowered variety, and is +exceedingly valuable for bouquets and vase decoration. The large umbels +of blossoms are of the purest white. It is one of the earliest +spring-flowering bulbs, and, although quite hardy, it comes forward +quickly and easily in a cool house.</p> + + +<p><b>ALSTROEMERIA</b></p> + +<p>An elegant plant which belongs to the nearly hardy group referred to in +the notice of Ixia. In autumn it may be safely planted out in almost any +part of the United Kingdom, provided it is planted nine inches deep, and +can have a sunny position on a dry soil, for damp is more hurtful to it +than frost. As a pot plant it is comparatively useless, but if allowed +to remain several years in a dry border, a large clump of any of the +varieties presents a brilliant appearance when in flower.</p> + + +<p><b>AMARYLLIS</b></p> + +<p>See remarks under Lilies at page 340.</p> + + +<p><b>ANEMONE</b></p> + +<p><b>Windflower</b></p> + +<p>Our observations on this flower will be limited to the tuberous +varieties; but even with this restriction, the range of form and colour +is exceedingly wide. The Anemone is an accommodating plant, and can be +successfully flowered either in pots or in beds, at the option of the +cultivator.</p> + +<p>The most natural place for it is near shady woodland walks, where it can +be seen to the greatest advantage. But it is also a splendid subject for +masses in the mixed border, or in front of shrubberies; and alone in +beds it makes a brilliant and lasting show. For all the purposes of +garden decoration to which the Crocus, Hyacinth, and Tulip are applied, +the Windflower is equally well adapted. We do not advise planting +singly, but the Anemone answers admirably in lines, groups, or beds, and +the colours admit of numberless harmonies and contrasts.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322"></a>The commoner Anemones need only to be planted about three inches deep, +with the eyes upwards, at any time between September and March, and they +will require little or no attention afterwards. Under trees, instead of +planting in a formal pattern, it is worth while to put them in with some +attempt at natural grouping, and not too close together—say from six +inches to a foot apart. In such positions they may be left undisturbed +for years; and if the soil happens to be a good sandy loam, they will +thrive and increase. In masses or beds within the garden, however, a +richer effect is wanted, and the distance between the roots should not +exceed from four to six inches.</p> + +<p>A choice collection of roots is worth more care, and florists are +accustomed to prepare the beds for their reception with fastidious +exactness. The soil, if not considered suitable, is taken out to the +depth of two feet, and is replaced by a rich and specially prepared +compost. Although the individual flowers produced by this method are +generally very fine, and the total effect of the bed is exceedingly +beautiful, yet the truth must be confessed that for ordinary gardening +the system is extravagant and unnecessary. As a hobby, it is, of course, +justifiable enough; but Anemones of high quality can be grown by a much +simpler mode of procedure. One deep digging there certainly should be, +and a layer of manure at the bottom of each trench is sound treatment, +for it supplies the roots with food and a cool subsoil. Poor land should +also be enriched by incorporating a dressing of decayed manure as the +work proceeds. Subsequently one or two light surface forkings will help +to make the bed mellow. A rough plan, showing the name and position of +every root, will be a safer record than labelling in the usual way, and +it also prevents the disfigurement of the bed. There should be a +distance of six inches between the roots; and they may be put in singly +by means of the trowel, or in drills drawn three inches deep. The former +method is generally adopted for groups; but to insure regularity in +flowering the planting must be uniform in depth. For beds, drills are +more reliable, and they are speedily made.</p> + +<p>The time of planting determines to a considerable extent the date of +flowering; and, as the roots may be put in during autumn, winter, and +early spring, it is easy to secure a succession of Anemones from January +until May. But this flower is of so much more value early in the year +than at a later period, when many other subjects brighten the garden, +that it is scarcely worth while to plant so late as March.</p> + +<p>The Anemone is well worth growing in pots, both for its foliage <a name="Page_323" id="Page_323"></a>and +flowers. It does not resent forcing to the same extent as the +Ranunculus; nevertheless, cool treatment is almost essential to do it +full justice. The potting should be done in batches to insure a +succession of flowers, and the first lot may be put in at the end of +August, or beginning of September. They should have the benefit of +really good soil; a mixture of leaf-mould and loam, with the addition of +a little powdered charcoal, will suit them exactly. In preparing the +pots, place a layer of light manure above the crocks, which will assist +the drainage and benefit the plants. Then fill with compost to within +two inches of the top, and lay in the roots; add soil to a level with +the rim, and press lightly down. The strongest roots should, of course, +be selected for potting, and it will need more than a hasty glance to +put them in with the eyes upwards. One or more roots may be planted in +each pot, according to the size of the latter.</p> + +<p>The early plantings can be placed in any warm position out of doors, +such as under a south wall; but after the middle of October remove to a +cold pit, or on to the greenhouse stage. Watering is all the attention +they will require, and of this there must be no stint, especially during +the blooming period. A high temperature at any stage is needless, and if +they are just kept out of the reach of frost they will take excellent +care of themselves.</p> + +<p>Anemones are adapted for many decorative purposes; they make capital +window plants, and their sharply cut foliage is very ornamental in the +drawing-room or on the dinner-table.</p> + + +<p><b>BABIANA</b></p> + +<p>Babianas are delicately constituted, but extremely elegant plants when +well grown. Though far from showy, they appeal to the educated eye for +appreciation of their blue and purple oculate flowers. The culture is +the same as for the Ixia, and we incline strongly to the practice of +keeping the bulbs at least two seasons in the same pots.</p> + + +<p><b>BEGONIA, TUBEROUS-ROOTED</b></p> + +<p>Few flowers have a greater claim on the attention of horticulturists +than the Tuberous-rooted Begonia, either for the ease with which it can +be grown, or for the many valuable purposes to which the plant <a name="Page_324" id="Page_324"></a>may be +applied. It can be flowered at any time from February until October, and +is available for all kinds of indoor decoration, and also for growing in +the open ground during the summer months.</p> + +<p>Instead of allowing the plants to be rudely dried off, it is worth a +little trouble to reduce them slowly to the dormant state by gradually +withholding water. They should still be retained in pots, which may be +stored under a thick layer of ashes or dry peat in any cellar, frame, or +shed where the thermometer stands pretty uniformly at about 50°. The +store should also be dry, for damp is quite as injurious to these roots +as cold. Generally speaking, it may be said that any store which is safe +for Dahlias will also preserve Tuberous-rooted Begonias.</p> + +<p>After the winter’s rest the bulbs are invariably saucer-shaped, and in +the event of their being watered before growth has commenced, sufficient +water will remain in the hollow to destroy the bulb. This peculiarity +makes it dangerous to start the plant before activity is evident. In +January or February, as the bulbs show signs of life, pot them almost on +the surface of a rich loamy soil, and employ the smallest pots possible. +Nurse them with a little care in a warm place for about ten days, and +they should then be very gradually hardened. A regular system of potting +on will be necessary until the final size is reached; and at each +operation the plants should be inserted rather deeper than before. If +re-potting is deferred too long, the foliage will turn yellow—a sure +sign that the plant is starving. No flowers should be allowed in the +early stages of growth, and this rule is imperative if fine specimens +are wanted; but when the plants are transferred just as the pots are +full of roots, there will be little disposition to bloom prematurely. +While growing, the Tuberous Begonia delights in a humid atmosphere, but +this should be avoided after flowering has commenced. When sticks are +inserted for tying out the flowers, the bulbs must not be wounded.</p> + +<p>The erect-growing varieties are valuable for low conservatory stages, +and they form splendid groups in corners of drawing-rooms. The drooping +kinds are seen to advantage on brackets, shelves, and in suspended +baskets; and the short-jointed plants of the drooping class are +specially adapted for rockeries and beds. They must not be put into the +open until the danger of a nipping east wind is past. The early part of +June is generally about the right time.</p> + +<p>In the autumn it is usual to lift and pot the plants, although in mild +districts, and in a light soil, they may safely be left out all the +winter under the shelter of a heap of ashes or decayed manure.<a name="Page_325" id="Page_325"></a> In beds +this plan is scarcely worth adoption, because it leaves the ground bare +for several months; but where Begonias are grown in the reserve border +to furnish a supply of flowers for cutting, it may be a considerable +advantage to leave them until the following year.</p> + +<p>A word is necessary as to soil. The Begonia is a gross feeder, and to +develop its fine qualities there must be a liberal employment of manure. +As a matter of fact, it is scarcely possible to make the soil too rich +for this flower.</p> + + +<p><b>CHIONODOXA</b></p> + +<p><b>Glory of the Snow</b></p> + +<p>The varied blue tints of the Chionodoxa, its more open blossoms, and +larger size, distinguish this flower from its older and justly prized +rival, the Scilla. Indeed, the Chionodoxa is exquisitely beautiful, and +of great value for pot culture, beds, or borders. Five bulbs may be +grown in a 48-sized pot, and in the border not less than half a dozen +should be planted in a group. Employed as a single or double line, it +also produces a striking bit of colouring. The bulbs should be planted +in autumn four inches deep, the distance between being not more than +three inches. Any ordinary garden soil will grow this flower, and it is +advisable to allow the bulbs to remain undisturbed for several years, as +the effect will be the greater in each succeeding spring.</p> + + +<p><b>CROCUS</b></p> + +<p>This brilliant harbinger of spring will thrive in any soil or situation, +but to be brought to the highest possible perfection it should be grown +in an open bed or border of deep, rich, dry sandy loam. The bulbs should +be planted during September, October, and November. If kept out of the +ground after the end of the year they will be seriously damaged, and +however carefully planted, will not flower in a satisfactory manner. +Plant three inches deep in lines, clumps, or masses, as taste may +suggest, putting the bulbs two inches apart. If convenient, let them +remain undisturbed two or three years, and then take them up and plant +again in well-prepared and liberally manured soil. A bed of mixed +Crocuses has a pleasing appearance, but in selecting bulbs for the +geometric garden it is more effective to employ distinct colours, +reserving the yellow for the exterior parts of the design to define its +boundaries, and using the blue and the white <a name="Page_326" id="Page_326"></a>in masses and bands +within. In districts where sparrows attack the flowers, they may be +deterred from doing mischief by stretching over the beds a few strands +of black thread, which will not interfere with the beauty of the +display, and will terrify the sparrows for a sufficient period to save +the flowers.</p> + +<p>The named varieties are invaluable for pot and frame culture, and to +force for decorative purposes; for though the individual flowers are +short-lived, the finest bulbs yield a long succession of bloom, and in +character Crocuses are quite distinct from all other flowers of the same +early season. When grown in pots and baskets, the bulbs should be placed +close together to produce a striking effect. A light, rich soil is +desirable, but they may be flowered in a mixture of charcoal and moss, +or in fibre, or moss alone. When required in quantity for ornamental +baskets and similar receptacles, it is wise to plant them in shallow +boxes filled with rotten manure and leaf-mould, and to lift them out +separately, and pack them when in flower in the ornamental baskets. A +perfect display of flowers in precisely the same stage of development +can thus be secured, and successional displays may follow as long as +supplies remain in the boxes.</p> + + +<p><b>CROWN IMPERIAL</b></p> + +<p><b>Fritillaria imperialis</b></p> + +<p>A noble plant which needs a deep, rich, moist soil, and an open +situation, to insure the full degree of stateliness, but it will make a +very good figure in any border where it can enjoy a glimmer of sunshine. +There are several distinct varieties, the flowers of which range in +colour from palest yellow to the deepest shade of orange and reddish +buff, and there are others which have variegated leaves. They should be +planted in autumn eighteen inches apart, allowing from four to six +inches of soil above the crowns.</p> + + +<p><b>CYCLAMEN</b></p> + +<p>Although it is advisable to raise Cyclamens from seed every year, +occasions arise when it is necessary to store the bulbs for a second +season, and the best method of treating them during the period of rest +must be considered. As the production of seed weakens the corms, +preference should be given to those which have not been subjected to +this tax on their energies.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327"></a>At the close of the flowering season the bulbs should be gradually +reduced to a resting state by withholding moisture. When the foliage +turns yellow the pots may be laid on their sides in a cold frame, if +available, or in any other convenient place where they will not be +forgotten, until about the middle of July. They should then be placed +upright, and have a supply of water. After fresh growth has fairly +commenced, shake the bulbs out of the pots, remove most of the old soil, +and re-pot in a compost consisting of mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould, +with a sufficient admixture of silver sand to insure drainage. The corm +should be so placed in the pot as to bring the crown about level with +the rim, and every care must be taken to avoid injuring the young roots. +Place the pots in a close frame for a few days, after which ample +ventilation should be given to maintain a robust condition. The lights +may remain constantly open until there is danger from autumn frosts. +Specimens that show a great number of flower-buds should be assisted +occasionally with weak manure water.</p> + +<p><i>C. Coum</i> and <i>C. europæum</i> are rarely well grown, for although quite +hardy, the climate of this country does not suit them in their season of +flowering, which is the early spring. The cool greenhouse is the safest +place for them, except in sheltered spots, where they may be planted out +on a border of peat, or amongst ferns in a rockery. When grown in pots, +light turfy loam and peat in equal quantities, with a fourth part of +cow-manure and a liberal addition of sand, will form an excellent +compost for them. The pots should never be exposed to the drying action +of the sun or wind, but should be plunged to the rim in coal-ashes. The +best time for potting or planting them is September or October.</p> + +<p>Instructions on raising Cyclamens from seed will be found at page 256.</p> + + +<p><b>DAFFODIL</b>—<i>see</i> <b>NARCISSUS</b>, <i>page</i> 344</p> + + +<p><b>DOG’S-TOOTH VIOLET</b></p> + +<p>The red and white varieties are as hardy as any plant in our gardens, +and by their neat habit and elegant leaves and flowers they are +admirably adapted to plant in quantities in the front of a rockery, in +either peat or sandy loam and leaf-mould. They are equally suitable for +edging small beds in gardens where spring flowers are <a name="Page_328" id="Page_328"></a>systematically +grown; in fact, they are true ‘spring bedders.’ Autumn is the proper +time to plant the bulbs. But Dog’s-tooth Violets are also worth growing +in pots, especially where an unheated ‘Alpine house’ is kept for plants +of this class. Several bulbs may be put in a pot of the 48-size.</p> + + +<p><b>FERRARIA</b>—<i>see</i> <b>TIGRIDIA</b>, <i>page 350</i></p> + + +<p><b>FREESIA</b></p> + +<p>The singularly graceful form, wide range of beautiful colours, and +delicious perfume of this flower have made it an immense favourite; and +happily there is no Cape bulb which can be grown with greater ease in +the frame or cool greenhouse. One characteristic is very marked, and it +is the disproportion between the small bulb and the fine flowers +produced from it.</p> + +<p>Procure the bulbs as early in the autumn as possible, and lose no time +in potting them. Any light rich soil will answer, but that which suits +them best is composed of two parts of loam, one of leaf-mould, and one +of peat, with enough sand or grit added to insure drainage. Commence +with pots of the right size, for the roots are extremely brittle, and +there must be no risk of injuring them by re-potting. The 48-size will +accommodate several bulbs. Place under a south wall, and cover with +leaf-mould until top growth commences, and then remove the covering.</p> + +<p>At the end of September transfer the pots to a cold frame, and when the +plants attain a height of four inches, support them with neat sticks, +which should not be inserted too near the bulbs. Watering will require +judgment, for too much moisture turns the foliage yellow. When the pots +are full of roots, liquid manure twice a week will be helpful.</p> + +<p>After the blooming season has passed, encourage the foliage to wither by +withholding water. The roots may be stored away in their own pots until +the following August.</p> + + +<p><b>FRITILLARIA</b></p> + +<p>Fritillarias produce bell-shaped flowers, varying in colour, but +generally of a purplish tint, and beautifully spotted. They thrive <a name="Page_329" id="Page_329"></a>in a +good deep loam, but may be grown in almost any soil, and do well under +the shade of trees. They are quite hardy, and, like most other bulbs, +should be planted in autumn. Fritillarias are occasionally grown in pots +kept in a cold frame, but they will not endure forcing in the least +degree, and the mixed border is the best position for them. These +flowers make a charming ornament when grown in bowls filled with +moss-fibre.</p> + + +<p><b>GLADIOLUS</b></p> + +<p>The Gladiolus is adapted for many important uses and it associates +admirably with Dahlias, Hollyhocks, Pyrethrums, and Phloxes in the +furnishing of clumps on the lawn and in the mixed border. It is +perfectly in harmony with surroundings when planted in American beds or +in the shrubbery. For supplying cut flowers it is invaluable, as they +retain their freshness in a vase for many days, and a plentiful supply +should be grown in reserved spots expressly for this purpose.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Pots.</b>—The early-flowering varieties are of especial value +for decorating greenhouses and conservatories during spring and early +summer. The corms of these Gladioli are small, and a 32-sized pot will +accommodate several. The soil should be decidedly rich, and it must be +porous, because water has to be given freely when the plants are in full +growth. Pot the corms in autumn, and cover with leaf-mould until the +roots are developed, when successive batches can be brought forward and +gently forced for a continuous supply of elegant flowers during April +and May. A mild temperature of about 55° is quite sufficient for them.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in the Open Ground.</b>—The autumn-flowering Gladioli are grown +in the open ground, and preparations should begin well in advance of +planting time. Almost any soil can be made to answer, but that which +suits them best is a good medium, friable loam with a cool rich subsoil, +and each grower must decide for himself how far this is within reach +naturally, or can be secured by resources at command. Thus, a light soil +may be made suitable by placing a thick layer of rotten cow-manure a +foot below the surface, and a heavy, retentive loam can be reduced to +the proper state by the admixture of lighter material. On the surface +spread a liberal quantity of manure and dig it in, leaving the soil in a +rough state to be disintegrated by frosts. Before the planting <a name="Page_330" id="Page_330"></a>time +arrives it is worth some trouble to free the ground from wire worms, or +they will play havoc with the growth just as it is appearing above +ground. Potatoes serve admirably as traps for these pests.</p> + +<p>Gladioli are peculiarly liable to injury from wind, so that a sheltered, +but not a shaded, position should, if possible, be chosen for them. The +time of planting depends partly on the district, partly on the season; +but the soil must be in suitable condition and fine weather is +necessary. From the middle of March to the middle of April should afford +some suitable opportunity of getting the bulbs in satisfactorily. Give +the land a light forking, not deep enough to bring up the manure, and +make the surface level. The rows may be twelve or eighteen inches apart; +we prefer the greater distance, because of the convenience it affords in +attending to the plants when growing; nine inches is sufficient space in +the rows.</p> + +<p>There are two methods of putting in the bulbs, each of which has +advocates among practised growers. One is to take out the soil with a +trowel to the depth of six or seven inches for each corm, then insert +about two inches of mixed sand and powdered charcoal or wood ashes; lay +the root upon it, and carefully cover with fine soil. If that process is +considered too tedious, draw a deep drill with a hoe, and at the bottom +put the light mixture already named; place the roots at regular +distances upon it, and lightly return the top soil. The operation should +be so performed as to leave the crown of the corm four inches below the +surface. When planting is completed, give the bed a finishing touch with +the rake.</p> + +<p>An eminent grower strips off the outer coat or skin of each bulb before +planting to ascertain that there is no disease; and this cannot +otherwise be discovered. No doubt the procedure prevents the bed from +showing blanks, but that object can be more safely attained by growing a +reserve in pots. There is, however, another practice which possesses +very decided advantages, and it is to break the skin at the crown of the +bulb to allow the foliage free exit. The skin is so tough that it is +frequently the means of distorting the plant in its attempt to force an +opening.</p> + +<p>The bed for a time needs little attention, except to keep it free from +weeds, and this is best done by hand. When the shoots reach about a foot +high, tying must be resorted to in earnest. The most effectual plan, of +course, is to put a separate stake to each plant, and for exhibition +specimens this is certainly advisable. But rows can be secured by a +stake at each end, with two or three strands of strong material carried +across, to which each flower must be tied. Whatever <a name="Page_331" id="Page_331"></a>method is adopted, +care should be taken to avoid cutting the plant, while holding it secure +from damage in a high wind. Let the material which is placed round the +flowering-stem be soft and wide, such as list, which answers admirably.</p> + +<p>Water must be freely and regularly given during dry weather, either in +the morning or in the evening; and a mulch of old manure spread over the +bed will prevent evaporation, and save the ground from caking hard.</p> + +<p>Another important matter is shading. For ordinary purposes this is not +essential; but as it very much lengthens the duration of the flower, it +is worth attention on that ground alone, and for exhibition it is +indispensable. Whether shading is provided by separate protectors made +expressly for the purpose, or by home-made contrivances of canvas or +wood, the point to be quite certain about is security, or an accident +may wreck well-grounded hopes.</p> + +<p>The lifting and storing of the corms affect the quality of the next +year’s flowers so much that it is important to accomplish lifting at the +most suitable time, and the storing in the best manner. By the middle or +end of October, on some fine day, take up the roots, even if the foliage +be still green; tie a label to each variety, and hang them in some airy +place until they can be cleared of soil and leaves. Remove each stem +with a sharp knife, and lay out the bulbs to dry for another fortnight. +They can then be stored in paper bags or in boxes on any dry shelf which +is safe from vermin and frost.</p> + +<p>An article on the culture of the Gladiolus from seed will be found on +page 267.</p> + + +<p><b>GLOXINIA</b></p> + +<p>Gloxinias may be had in bloom almost all the year by judicious +management. When required for early flowering, those that start first +should be selected and carefully shifted into other pots, and be kept +near the glass, as they depend much on light for rapid and luxuriant +growth. A moist atmosphere, with the temperature about 60° to 65°, +greatly facilitates the growth of Gloxinias, but they may be grown well +in greenhouses or in pits heated by hot water. The most suitable soil is +a light fibrous loam, combined with a little peat and silver sand. +Manure water during the growing period twice a week is helpful, but it +should be discontinued when the flowers show colour. The plants love +shade, and at no time should suffer from drought. Storing Gloxinias for +their season of rest, <i>i.e.</i> the winter, <a name="Page_332" id="Page_332"></a>must be carefully attended to, +as losses frequently occur during this stage. It is also important that +the plants should not be ‘dried off’ too quickly; place them in a light, +airy position, and by a gradual reduction of moisture the leaves will +fall off naturally. The bulbs may then be stored away on a shelf, in an +even temperature of about 50°, each bulb being closely surrounded by +cocoa-nut fibre and peat in equal parts to prevent excessive dryness, +which, like too much damp, often causes the loss of the bulb.</p> + +<p>Besides growing the same plants from year to year, it is always +desirable to have a fresh stock coming on, as the old bulbs may +deteriorate after two or three years. This can easily be managed by +successive sowings of seed, as advised at page 268.</p> + + +<p><b>HEMEROCALLIS</b>—<i>see under</i> <b>LILIES</b>, <i>page 343</i></p> + + +<p><b>HYACINTH</b></p> + +<p>One of the most valuable characteristics of the Hyacinth is the ease +with which it can be flowered in a variety of ways by very simple modes +of treatment. It may be employed as a hardy, rough-weather plant for the +garden border, or as a grand exhibition and conservatory flower. The +bulbs may be planted at any time from September to the middle of +December, with the certainty of their blooming well, if properly cared +for; but the prudent cultivator will plant them as early as possible in +the autumn, and so manage them afterwards as to secure the longest +period of growth previous to their flowering. They can be forced to +flower at Christmas, but the more slowly the flowers are developed the +finer in the end will they be. To obtain good bulbs is a matter of the +utmost importance, and it may be useful here to remark that the mere +size of a Hyacinth bulb is no criterion of its value—nor, indeed, is +its neatness of form or brightness of appearance. The two most important +qualities are soundness and density. If the bulbs are hard and heavy in +proportion to their size, they may be depended on to produce good +flowers of their kind. The bulbs of some sorts are never large or +handsome, while, on the other hand, many others partake of both these +qualities in a marked degree.</p> + +<p>One other matter in general relating to the treatment of Hyacinths needs +to be referred to. Harm has often been done by the practice of massing +the flowers, whether in pot groups or in garden beds, without +consideration of colour harmonies. Yet no other bulbous <a name="Page_333" id="Page_333"></a>flower offers +such a wide choice of delightful colours, or is so eminently adapted to +artistic blending, as the Hyacinth. By eschewing the dull blues and +allied shades and by bringing into association exquisite tones of mauve, +pink, apricot, salmon, pale yellow, rich lilac, bright red, &c., it is +easy to demonstrate that there are possibilities in Hyacinths which may +never have been suspected before. The following are a few of the +charming blends which may be made, and will especially appeal to those +who grow Hyacinths indoors: (i) Apricot, cream, and pale blue; (2) +cream, pale pink, and rose-pink; (3) bright pink and pale blue; (4) +bright red, rich blue, and pure white; (5) rose-pink and rich blue; (6) +pale yellow and rich blue; (7) deep mauve and pale mauve; (8) cream and +pale blue; (9) bright blue shades (dull, washy, and nondescript blue, +purple, and violet tints must be avoided); (10) blush pink and +rose-pink; (11) apricot and cream; (12) pale lavender, cream, and +apricot. These examples will show that charming effects can be secured +either with two or with three varieties. Colour-grouping may also be +carried out in the garden, but in this case great care must be exercised +to get varieties of clear, bright hues which flower at the same time, +such as Inimitable Bedding Hyacinths. Modern taste further dictates that +the bare soil shall be hidden, and this end is best served by providing +a groundwork of dwarf plants, such as Daisies, Forget-me-nots, double +white Arabis, and mauve Aubrietia. Another course is to mix Hyacinths +with Daffodils of the Chalice or Star section; there is no better +variety than Sir Watkin, but others may be used.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Pots.</b>—It is not necessary to use large pots, or pots of a +peculiar shape, for Hyacinths. There is nothing better than common +flower-pots, and in those of 60-size single bulbs may be flowered in a +most satisfactory manner. The pots usually employed are the 48-and +32-sizes, the last-named being required only for selected bulbs grown +for exhibition. We advise the use of small pots where Hyacinths are +grown in pits and frames for decorative purposes, because they can be +conveniently placed in ornamental stands, or packed close together in +baskets of moss, when required for the embellishment of the +drawing-room. As the use of new pots for Hyacinths is often the cause of +failure, they should not be employed if well-cleansed old pots are +available. The tender roots of the bulbs frequently become too dry owing +to the absorbent nature of the new pots. A rich, light soil is +indispensable, and it should consist chiefly of turfy loam, with +leaf-mould and a liberal allowance <a name="Page_334" id="Page_334"></a>of sharp sand. The mixture ought to +be in a moderately moist condition when ready for use. In small pots one +hollow crock must suffice, but the 48-and 32-sized pots can be prepared +in the usual way, with one large hollow crock, and a little heap of +smaller potsherds or nodules of charcoal over it. Fill the pots quite +full of soil, and then press the bulb into it, and press the soil round +the bulb to finish the operation. If potted loosely, they will not +thrive; if potted too firmly, they will rise up as soon as the roots +begin to grow, and be one-sided. In large pots the bulbs should be +nearly covered with soil, but in small pots they must be only half +covered, in order to afford them the largest possible amount of +root-room. When potted, a cool place must be found for them, and unless +they go absolutely dry, they should not have a drop of water until they +begin to grow freely and are in the enjoyment of full daylight. The pots +may be stored in a dark, cool pit, or any out-of-the-way place where +neither sun, nor frost, nor heavy rains will affect them; but it is +advisable to plunge them in coal-ashes and also to cover them with a few +inches of the ashes. As to their removal, they must be taken out as +wanted for forcing, and certainly before they push up their flower +spikes, as they will do if they remain too long in the bed. The +cultivator will be guided in respect of their removal from the bed by +circumstances; but when they are removed, a distinct routine of +treatment must be observed, or the flowering will be unsatisfactory. For +a short time they should be placed in subdued daylight, that the +blanched growth may acquire a healthy green hue slowly; and they need to +be kept cool in order that they shall grow very little until a healthy +colour is acquired. The floor of a cool greenhouse is a good place for +them when first taken out of the bed and cleaned up for forcing. Another +matter of great importance is to place them near the glass immediately +their green colour is established, and to grow them as slowly as the +requirements of the case will permit. If to be forced early, allow +plenty of time to train them to bear a great heat, taking from bed to +pit, and from pit to cool house, and deferring to the latest possible +moment placing them in the heat in which they are to flower. Those to +bloom at Christmas should be potted in September, those to follow may be +potted a month later. If a long succession is required, a sufficient +number should be potted every two or three weeks to the end of the year. +Those potted latest will, of course, flower in frames without the aid of +heat. In any and every case the highest temperature of the forcing-pit +should be 70°; to go beyond <a name="Page_335" id="Page_335"></a>that point will cause an attenuated growth +and poverty of colour. If liquid manure is employed at all, it should be +used constantly and extremely weak until the flowers begin to expand, +and then pure soft water only should be used. No matter what may be the +particular constitution of the liquid manure, it must be weak, or it +will do more harm than good. The spikes should be supported by wires or +neat sticks in ample time, and a constant watch kept to see that the +stems are not cut or bent, as they rapidly develop beyond the range +allowed them by their supports.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Glasses</b>.—It is of little consequence whether rain, river, +or spring water be employed in this mode of culture, but it must be +pure, and in the glasses it should nearly but not quite touch the bulbs. +Store at once in a dark, cool place, to encourage the bulbs to send +their roots down into the water before the leaves begin to grow. When +the roots are developed, bring the glasses from the dark to the light, +in order that leaves and flowers may be in perfect health. Let them have +as much light as possible, with an equable temperature, and provide +supports in good time. Hyacinths are often injured by being kept in +rooms that are at times extremely cold and at others heated to excess. +Those who wish to grow the bulbs to perfection in glasses should remove +them occasionally as circumstances may require, to prevent the injury +that must otherwise result from rapid and extreme alternations of +temperature. It is not desirable to introduce to the water any +stimulating substance, but the glasses must be kept nearly full of water +by replenishing as it disappears. If the leaves become dusty, they may +be cleansed with a soft brush or a sponge dipped in water, but +particular care must be taken not to injure them in the process.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Moss-fibre</b>.—While Hyacinths, differing from Daffodils and +Tulips, are perhaps relatively better in pots of soil than in bowls of +moss-fibre, they may still be grown successfully in bowls provided a +fairly deep receptacle is chosen and care is taken to avoid making the +fibre hard. With a shallow bowl and very firm fibre it may be found that +the roots strike upward and the plant does not get that abundant supply +of moisture which is essential to its welfare. For this method of +culture preference should be given to the Roman, Giant Italian, +Christmas Pink, Miniature and Grape Hyacinths, which look particularly +charming in bowls and similar contrivances. Detailed directions are +given on page 319.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Beds</b>.—The Hyacinth will grow well in any ordinary garden +soil, but that which suits it best is a light rich loam.<a name="Page_336" id="Page_336"></a> The bed should +be effectually drained, for though the plant loves moisture it cannot +thrive in a bog during the winter. It is advisable to plant early, and +to plant deep. If a rich effect is required, especially in beds near the +windows of a residence, the bulbs should be six inches apart, but at a +greater distance a good effect may be produced by planting nine inches +apart. The time of blooming may be to some extent influenced by the time +and manner of planting, but no strict rules can be given to suit +particular instances. Late planting and deep planting both tend to defer +the time of blooming, although there will not be a great difference in +any case, and as a rule the late bloom is to be preferred, because less +liable to injury from frost. The shallowest planting should insure a +depth of three inches of earth above the crown of the bulb, but they +will flower better, and only a few days later, if covered with full six +inches of earth over the crowns. The Hyacinth is so hardy that +protection need not be thought of, except in peculiar cases of unusual +exposure, or on the occurrence of an excessively low temperature when +they are growing freely. Under any circumstances, there is no protection +so effectual as dry litter, but a thin coat of half-rotten manure spread +over the bed is to be preferred in the event of danger being apprehended +at any time before the growth has fairly pushed through.</p> + +<p>The bulbs may be taken up as soon as the leaves acquire a yellow colour, +so that the brilliant display of spring may be immediately followed by +another, equally brilliant perhaps, but in character altogether +different. When grown in beds, Hyacinths do not require water or sticks; +all they need is to be planted properly, and they will take care of +themselves.</p> + +<p><b>Miniature Hyacinths.</b>—These charming little sparkling gems are +invaluable for baskets, bowls and other contrivances which are adapted +for the choicest decorative purposes. In quality they are excellent, the +spikes being symmetrical, the flowers well formed, and the colours +brilliant. But they are true miniatures, growing about half the size of +the other kinds, and requiring less soil to root in. They will flower +well if planted in a mixture of moss-fibre and charcoal, kept constantly +moist, and covered with the greenest moss, to give to the ornament +containing them a finished appearance.</p> + +<p><b>Feather and Grape Hyacinths</b> will grow in any good garden soil, and are +admirably adapted for borders that are shaded by trees. They should be +planted in large clumps, and be allowed to remain several years +undisturbed. Both classes are beautiful—the Feather Hyacinth +emphatically so; indeed, numerous as beautiful flowers are, <a name="Page_337" id="Page_337"></a>this, for +delicacy of structure, has peculiar claims to our admiration, when +presenting its feathery plumes a foot or more in length, all cut into +curling threads of the most elegant tenuity. Grape Hyacinths make a +charming ornament for the drawing-room when grown in bowls of +moss-fibre.</p> + +<p><b>Roman Hyacinth.</b>—This flower is particularly welcome in the short, +dark days of November, December, and January. For placing in glasses to +decorate the drawing-room or dinner-table the spikes of bloom are +largely grown; and the separate flowers, mounted on wire, form an +important feature in winter bouquets, for which purpose their delicious +perfume renders them especially valuable.</p> + +<p>The bulbs can be grown with the utmost ease. Pot them immediately they +can be obtained in August or September, and stand them in some spare +corner in the open ground, where they can be covered with a few inches +of leaf-mould. This will encourage the roots to start before there is +any top growth. In October remove the covering, and transfer the pots to +a pit or frame, or they may be placed under the greenhouse stage for a +time, provided they will not be in the way of dripping water. A little +later, room should be found for them upon the stage, or the foliage may +become drawn. When the buds are visible, plunge the pots in a bottom +heat of 65° or 70°, and in a week the flowers will be fit for use. Like +its more imposing prototype, the Roman Hyacinth may have its roots +gently freed from soil for packing in bowls or vases filled with wet +moss or sand; but they ought not to be subjected to a violent change of +temperature. If wanted in glasses, they can be grown in water after the +usual fashion, but the flower is scarcely adapted for this mode of +treatment. They will, however, grow well in bowls filled with +moss-fibre.</p> + +<p><b>Italian Hyacinth.</b>—Although rather later in flowering than the Roman +variety, the Italian Hyacinth deserves to be grown as a pot plant, +especially for its more lasting quality. The graceful flowers are +carried on long stout stems which are most effective for the decoration +of vases. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and may be planted in clumps in +the open border, where they will bloom in April and afford abundant +sprays for cutting. The habit is less formal than that of the Dutch +Hyacinth and the flowers exhale a sweet delicate perfume. As previously +stated, the Italian Hyacinth is especially suitable for growing in +moss-fibre.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338"></a><b>HYACINTHUS CANDICANS</b></p> + +<p>An excellent companion to Delphiniums, Salvias, and perennial Lobelias +in the mixed border. The stately spikes of this flower also associate +well with shrubs, and help to enliven a bed of Rhododendrons at a period +of the year when the latter is uninteresting. Roots may be planted in +any soil from November to March; and, as they are perfectly hardy, they +can be left in the open ground all the year without the least misgiving +as to their safety. A strong root will produce a succession of +flower-spikes, and this tendency will be assisted by cutting off each +spike immediately it has ceased to be attractive.</p> + + +<p><b>IRIS</b></p> + +<p>The common varieties of Iris are well-known favourites of the border, +and the whole family have claims on the attention of amateurs, on +account of their excellent faculty of taking care of themselves if +properly planted in the first instance. The tuberous or bulbous rooted +kinds do not require a rich soil; a sandy loam suits them, and they +thrive in peat. Such beautiful species as Reticulata, the Chalcedonian, +and the Peacock are worth growing in pots placed in frames or in a cool +greenhouse. The English, Dutch, and Spanish varieties should be planted +in clumps in front of a shrubbery border, where they may be seen to +advantage. The crown of the bulb must not be more than three inches +below the surface. From September to December will answer for planting, +and the roots may be taken up when the flowering period is over, or if +the space is not wanted they can be allowed to remain for the following +season. Bulbs of the English class should never be kept out of the +ground longer than can be helped, but they ought not to be grown in one +spot for more than three years; after that time the clumps must be +divided and a fresh position found for them.</p> + + +<p><b>IXIA and SPARAXIS</b></p> + +<p>These attractive Cape bulbs are hardy in favoured districts, and may be +left out for years in a sheltered border. In places where none but the +hardiest plants pass through the winter safely, they must be grown in +the greenhouse or the frame, and any good sandy soil will suit <a name="Page_339" id="Page_339"></a>them, +whether peat or loam. They should be potted early in the autumn, and +have plenty of air at all times when the weather is favourable, +especially when they are growing freely in spring. If carefully managed, +they may remain two seasons in the same pots. Use the 48-size, and plant +four or five bulbs in each. A dry, deep, sandy border under a wall in +any of the warmer western and southern districts might be furnished with +such plants as Ixias, Sparaxis, Alstroemerias, Oxalis, Tritonias, +Babianas, and the choicest of the smaller kinds of Iris. It would +constitute a garden of the most interesting exotics.</p> + + +<p><b>JONQUIL</b></p> + +<p>For its delicious fragrance and exquisite beauty the Jonquil has long +been considered one of the most valuable of the Narciss family for +cultivation in pots, and it is also a first-rate border and woodland +flower. When forced, the treatment should agree as nearly as possible +with that prescribed for the Narcissus. Four or five bulbs may be +planted in one pot.</p> + + +<p><b>LACHENALIA</b></p> + +<p>An elegant plant which is not quite hardy enough to be trusted in the +open ground; but it is the easiest matter possible to grow it well in +the greenhouse. The bulbs should be potted as soon as they begin to grow +in the autumn, and several bulbs may be put into each pot. There can be +no better soil than turfy loam, without manure or sand. It is of the +utmost importance that the plants should have abundance of water, when +they will produce leaves two inches across, and spikes of flowers fully +double the size of those commonly met with. An admirable use for these +bulbs is to insert them all over the outside of hanging-baskets, which +they will cover with the most graceful display of aërial vegetation +imaginable, the flower-spikes turning upwards, and the leaves hanging +down.</p> + + +<p><b>LEUCOJUM</b></p> + +<p>The Spring Snowflake (<i>L. vernum</i>) blooms as early as February or March, +and the Summer Snowflake (<i>L. æstivum</i>) comes into flower in May and +June. They closely resemble the Snowdrop, but <a name="Page_340" id="Page_340"></a>are much larger than that +well-known spring favourite. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and will +grow in any garden soil. Plant in clumps three inches deep, any time +from the end of September until the middle of November.</p> + + +<p><b>LILIES</b></p> + +<p>Hardy border Lilies are among the most useful garden plants known. They +are peculiarly hardy and robust, requiring no support from sticks or +ties; several of them remain green all the winter, and are capable of +resisting any amount of frost. If left alone, they increase rapidly, and +become more valuable every year. We will say nothing of their beauty, +for that is proverbial; but it may be useful to observe that many of the +most lovely Lilies, usually regarded as only suitable for the +greenhouse, and grown with great care under glass, are really as hardy +as the old common white Lily, and may be grown with it in the same +border. To grow Lilies well requires a deep, moist, rich loam. A +stubborn clay may be improved for them by deep digging, and +incorporating with the staple plenty of rotten manure and leaf-mould. +They all thrive in peat, or rotten turf, or, indeed, in any soil +containing an abundance of decomposing vegetable matter. The autumn is +the proper time to plant Lilies, but they may be planted at any season, +if they can be obtained in a dormant state or growing in pots. They +should be planted deep for their size, say, never less than six inches. +After they have stood some years it is necessary to lift and part the +clumps, when the borders should be deeply dug and liberally manured +before replanting. If the stems of Lilies become leafless and unsightly +before the flowers are past, it is a sign that the roots are too dry, or +that the soil is impoverished; and therefore, as soon as the stems die +down, they should be lifted, and perhaps transferred to a more +favourable spot.</p> + +<p><b>Amaryllis.</b>—These magnificent plants do not require the high +temperature in which they are usually grown, nor should they be allowed +to remain for a great length of time dust-dry, as we sometimes find +them. It is important to remember that they have distinct seasons of +activity and rest, but must not be forced into either condition by such +drastic measures as are occasionally resorted to. The proper soil for +them is turfy loam, enriched with rotten manure, and rendered moderately +porous by an admixture of sand. The light soil in which many plants +thrive will not suit them; the soil <a name="Page_341" id="Page_341"></a>must be firm, and somewhat rough in +texture. When first potted, give them very little water, and promote +growth by means of a bottom heat of 65°. Increase the supply of water as +the plants progress, and shift them into 6-inch pots for flowering. +While they are in flower they may be placed in the conservatory, or +wherever else they may be required for decorative purposes. When the +flowers have faded take them to the greenhouse to complete their growth, +after which dry them off slowly, but with the clear understanding that +they are never to be desiccated. They may be wintered in the greenhouse, +and should certainly be placed where they will always be slightly moist, +even if a few leaves remain green throughout the winter. Frequent +disturbance of the roots is to be particularly avoided in the +cultivation of Amaryllis, and therefore it is desirable to allow them to +remain in the same pots two or three years; or if they are shifted on, +it should be done in such a way that the roots are scarcely seen in the +process. Top dressing and liquid manure will help them when they have +been some time in the same pots.</p> + +<p><b>Lilium auratum.</b>—This magnificent Lily has proved to be as hardy as +the white garden variety, and is now freely planted in borders and +shrubberies where the noble heads of bloom always command admiration. +But the splendour of the flower will continue to insure for it a high +degree of favour as a decorative subject for the conservatory. When +grown in a pot the best soil is sandy peat, but it will flower finely in +a rich light mixture, such as Fuchsias require. It is advisable to begin +with the smallest pot in which the bulb can be placed, and then to shift +to larger and larger sizes as the plant progresses, taking care to have +the bulb two inches below the soil when in their flowering pots, because +roots are thrown out from the stem just above the bulb, and these roots +need to be carefully fed, as they are the main support of the flowers +that appear later. When the flower-buds are visible, there should, of +course, be no further shifting. In respect of temperature, this is an +accommodating Lily; but as a rule a cool house is better for the plant +than one which is maintained at a high temperature. The supply of water +should be plentiful during the period of growth and flowering, but +afterwards it can be reduced.</p> + +<p><b>Lilium Harrisii</b> (<i>The Bermuda, or Easter Lily</i>) is of the +<i>longiflorum</i> type, but the flowers are larger, and are produced with +greater freedom than by the ordinary <i>L. longiflorum</i>. Moreover, the +Bermuda Lily flowers almost continuously. Before one stem has finished +blooming another shoots up. This perennial habit gives <a name="Page_342" id="Page_342"></a>it a peculiar +value for the greenhouse, and renders forcing possible at almost any +season.</p> + +<p>Immediately the bulbs are received they should be potted in rich fibrous +loam—the more fibrous the better—and be placed in a cold frame. They +need little water until growth has fairly commenced, after which more +moisture will be necessary. So far as safety is concerned, they only +require protection from frost; but for an early show of bloom artificial +heat is imperative. The temperature should, however, be very moderate at +first, and rise slowly. When the buds show, a top-dressing of fresh loam +and decayed manure will be helpful, and to allow for this the soil must +be two inches from the tops of the pots when the bulbs are first potted. +After producing two or three flowering stems, it will be wise to place +the pots out of doors and give less water, or the bulbs will be +exhausted. But they must never be allowed to become quite dry, and after +a partial rest of six weeks or two months they may be re-potted in fresh +soil and started for another show of bloom.</p> + +<p>We do not recommend the planting of this Lily in open borders during +autumn, for growth will commence immediately, and a severe frost will +cut it down; but if planted in spring, it succeeds admirably, and will +produce a long succession of its handsome trumpet-shaped flowers. For +the following winter it can be either protected, or lifted for storing +in a frame.</p> + +<p><b>Lilium lancifolium.</b>—A graceful and highly perfumed Lily, which is +perfectly hardy, and will grow in good loam, though peat is to be +preferred for pot culture. To produce handsome specimens the same +routine must be followed as directed for the cultivation of <i>L. +auratum</i>. It scarcely need be added that, instead of growing the bulbs +separately in pots, several may be grown in a large pot to produce a +richer effect. But it is not advisable to place the bulbs in a large +mass of earth in the first instance. It is better that they should +commence their growth in small pots, and be shifted on as they require +more room. Aphis is extremely partial to these Lilies, particularly if +they are badly grown and allowed to suffer for the want of water. The +simplest way to remove the pest is to dip the plants in pure water, +taking care, of course, to prevent them from falling out of the pots in +the operation.</p> + +<p><b>Lily of the Valley.</b>—The popular name of this native plant is a +misnomer. Botanically it is known as <i>Convallaria majalis</i>, and +structurally the roots differ from those which are characteristic of the +whole tribe of Liliums. However, we have no quarrel with a <a name="Page_343" id="Page_343"></a>charming +name for a most dainty flower of fairy-like proportions. The sprays of +pure white pendulous bells have captivated the popular fancy, and they +are in public demand from the moment florists are able to place them on +the market.</p> + +<p>Whether for early or late spring forcing, or for planting in the open +ground, the most vigorous strain should be chosen, and there is one +which is incomparably superior to all others, producing finer spikes and +larger individual flowers. As a rule these roots are obtainable in +November, but, if necessary, it is far better to wait a week or two than +attempt to force such as have been lifted prematurely.</p> + +<p>The crowns may be potted, and where few are grown this is the usual +course. The large growers pack them in boxes, with a little fine soil, +and cover the tops with about four inches of cocoa-nut fibre. For the +earliest supply a temperature of 90° is necessary, accompanied with +plenty of moisture. After the spikes of bloom show, slightly reduce the +temperature, and remove the fibre to afford the leaves an opportunity of +maturing. When sufficiently advanced transfer the plants to pots for the +conservatory or the decoration of windows. Successive supplies can be +brought forward with less heat.</p> + +<p>In the open, Lily of the Valley require a partially shaded position. The +soil must be freely manured, and a good proportion of leaf-mould worked +in. Plant single crowns at a distance of six inches from each other, and +supply them with liquid manure during the growing period. After four, or +at most five years, they will become too crowded, when they should be +lifted, and the largest and finest crowns be selected for the formation +of a fresh bed.</p> + +<p><b>Japanese Day Lily</b> (<i>Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pl.</i>).—Admirably adapted +for pot culture to decorate the conservatory, the rich variegation of +its graceful curling leaves affording an elegant display of colour in +the early months of the year, and its fine double flowers being +extremely showy during their short blooming season. As this variety is +quite hardy, it may be planted in the select border with perfect safety, +and, in common with other Day Lilies, it bears the shade of trees +remarkably well. This is certainly one of the handsomest hardy plants in +cultivation.</p> + + +<p><b>MONTBRETIA</b></p> + +<p>Of this useful autumn-flowering bulb there are several varieties, <i>M. +crocosmiflora</i> probably being the most popular. In the warm <a name="Page_344" id="Page_344"></a>and +sheltered gardens of the South and in light well-drained soil the roots +pass the winter safely. But where frost prevails some protection, such +as a small mound of litter, must be provided; the covering to be removed +immediately the danger of frost is past. The most favourable time for +planting is the autumn, but during open weather the roots may be put in +up to the end of March. It is usual to plant in clumps at a depth of +about three inches, allowing a distance of six inches between the corms. +As they may remain undisturbed for several years the spacing will permit +them to spread and produce masses of their graceful flowers.</p> + + +<p><b>NARCISSUS</b></p> + +<p>Narcissi and Daffodils differ from Hyacinths, Tulips, and some other +bulbs in one particular which is important, because it furnishes the key +to the management of these flowers. The rootlets do not perish during +the season of rest, and this fact clearly indicates that the bulbs +should not remain out of ground for a day longer than is necessary.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Pots.</b>—All the Polyanthus class, and almost all the Garden +varieties, thrive in pots, and can be forced with extreme ease. Pot them +early in any rich, porous compost, and put them into the soil a little +deeper than is usual for Hyacinths. For a few weeks keep them in a cool +spot in the open ground under a thick covering of ashes to promote +root-growth without prematurely starting the tops. With all bulbs this +is an important point, especially for such as are intended to be brought +forward in heat. When the pots are full of roots, leaf-growth will +commence, and the covering should be removed. A cool pit is then the +best place for them. The after-treatment will depend entirely on the +date the flowers are wanted. A low temperature, long continued, means +late flowering, so that within reasonable limits the grower can control +the time of their appearance. For the earliest display select the Roman +and Paper White, which are naturally early-blooming varieties. After a +few days in a cool pit, transfer to the greenhouse, and about a week or +ten days before they are needed in flower plunge them in a brisk bottom +heat, and give plenty of water of the proper temperature. The forcing +should not begin until the plants are sufficiently advanced, or it will +injure the flowers in both size and colour. Weak manure water will be +beneficial occasionally, but when the blossoms <a name="Page_345" id="Page_345"></a>begin to open this must +be discontinued, and at the same time the heat should be diminished.</p> + +<p>A succession of Narcissi for indoor decoration can be secured by +starting batches at intervals of two or three weeks; and by moderating +the treatment as the season advances, the last lot will flower naturally +without artificial stimulus. Large bulbs should be potted singly, but +several roots of the smaller sorts may be put into one pot. Heavy heads +of bloom will need support, and there is nothing neater than the wires +which are made expressly for the purpose.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Moss-fibre.</b>—The lightsome charm of Narcissi and Daffodils +is never seen to greater advantage than when these are grown in bowls of +fibre for the decoration of rooms. Well-filled bowls of Daffodils are as +delightful indoors as are sturdy clumps nodding over grass or +Polyanthuses in the open air. The cultural routine is clean, pleasant, +and full of interest. The bowls are chosen with care, the fibre is well +saturated by repeated turning and moistening (this is essential to +success), enough crushed oyster shell is incorporated to make the +compost glisten brightly through and through, the mixture is pressed +into the bowl until it is firm without being hard, the bulbs are half +embedded, a few pieces of charcoal are pushed in here and there, the +bowls are put in a dark place for six weeks or so, and the rest is +merely to see that the fibre never gets dry.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Water.</b>—For growing in glasses no other bulbous flower is +equal to the Narcissus. Darkness at the outset is not essential to it, +and therefore the gradual development of the roots may be observed from +the time they start; and contact with water will do no harm to the bulb. +The glasses should, however, be kept in a low and fairly uniform +temperature, to discourage the growth of foliage until the bulbs have +fully formed their roots. Pure rain water is desirable, but it is not +actually necessary; and for the sake of appearances, as well as on the +score of health, it should be changed immediately it ceases to be quite +transparent. Those who do not care to observe the growth in glasses, but +like to have the plants in water during the blooming period, may grow +the bulbs in pots in the usual way, and wash off the soil when wanted. +In this case the roots will not be quite so regular as those which have +been wholly grown in water. Perhaps we need scarcely say that it is +possible to utilise this flower in many other ways—such, for instance, +as in decorating épergnes, glass globes, and fancy vases. They may <a name="Page_346" id="Page_346"></a>also +be made to float on a small fountain or aquarium; indeed, it is +surprising to what varied and effective purposes a little ingenuity will +adapt them.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Open Ground.</b>—For this purpose the Narcissus will always +command attention for its graceful appearance; and this observation +applies with as much force to the Polyanthus section, when thus used, as +to the varieties which are specially recognised as Garden Narcissus. The +latter class includes many old favourites, among which is the Pheasant’s +Eye—one of the most exquisite flowers grown in our gardens.</p> + +<p>The Narcissus is often used for bedding with superb effect. The graceful +habit, which is one of its principal charms, is very striking in large +masses, and its elegant appearance in the positions for which it is +naturally suited cannot fail to arrest attention. Beneath trees, by the +side of a shady walk, in front of shrubberies, or in the mixed border, +the Narcissus is thoroughly at home.</p> + +<p>If possible, choose a position where the bulbs need not be disturbed for +several years, and plant them early. When the spot they are to occupy +happens to be full, pot the bulbs until the ground is vacant, and in due +time turn them out. A southern or western aspect is desirable, but the +nature of the soil is comparatively unimportant, provided it is dry when +the bulbs are in their resting state. In sour land or in stagnant water +they will certainly rot, but a touch of sea spray will not injure them. +If the soil needs enriching, there is no better material than decayed +cow-manure, which may be incorporated as the work goes on, or it can be +applied as a top-dressing. Those which are evidently weak may be +assisted with a few doses of manure water, not too strong.</p> + +<p>In planting groups, put the smaller bulbs four or five inches, and the +larger sorts from six to nine inches apart; depth, six to nine inches, +according to size. Where exposed to a strong wind, it may be necessary +to give the flowers some kind of support to save them from injury.</p> + +<p>The Double and Single Daffodils are now in marked public favour and +their bright colours make them extremely useful for beds and borders. +For planting under and among trees they are invaluable, and a sufficient +number should always be put in to produce an immediate effect. They +thrive in damp, shady spots, and every three or four years it will be +necessary to divide and replant them.</p> + +<p><b>The Chinese Sacred Lily</b> (<i>Narcissus Tazetta</i>).—The popular name of +this flower is misleading. It is not a Lily, but a Narcissus <a name="Page_347" id="Page_347"></a>of the +Polyanthus type, and, like others of the same class, the bulbs may be +successfully grown in soil or in water. But <i>Narcissus Tazetta</i> has +proved to be singularly beautiful in water, and the management of it +entails very little trouble. A wide bowl of Japanese pattern is +appropriate for the purpose, and to obtain the best effect the bowl +should be partially filled with a number of plain or ornamental stones, +with a few pieces of charcoal to keep the water sweet. On the top, and +so that they will be held by the stones, place one or more bulbs: pour +in water until it covers the base of the bulbs. Store in a dark cool +cellar until the roots have started and the leaves begin to appear; then +remove to the room where the ornament is wanted. Occasionally the water +must be replenished. The development of the flower-heads is surprisingly +rapid, and a large bulb generally produces several clusters of sweetly +scented flowers. But if the bulbs are forced too quickly the blossoms +are sometimes crippled.</p> + + +<p><b>ORNITHOGALUM</b></p> + +<p><b>Star of Bethlehem</b></p> + +<p>During the month of June <i>O. arabicum</i> produces heads of pure white +fragrant flowers, each having a green centre. The roots are large and +fleshy, and should be planted in the autumn six inches deep. A sheltered +position, such as under a south wall, is desirable for them, and some +protection in the form of dry litter, or a heap of light manure, will be +necessary to carry the roots safely through severe winter weather. The +bulbs are frequently potted for indoor decoration. Another variety, <i>O. +umbellatum</i>, with pure white starry flowers, makes an attractive show in +May, and is valuable for naturalising in clumps or masses in the border.</p> + + +<p><b>OXALIS</b></p> + +<p>These frame plants are suitable for the cool greenhouse or for forcing, +and they are adapted also for the open border in peculiarly favourable +districts. They are particularly neat and cheerful, flowering +abundantly, and requiring only the most ordinary treatment of frame +plants. In winter they should be kept dry. The 48-sized pot is suitable, +and about five bulbs may be planted in each, using light soil freely +mixed with sand.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348"></a><b>RANUNCULUS</b></p> + +<p>To maintain a collection of named Ranunculuses demands skill and +patience, but a few of the most brilliant self-coloured, spotted and +striped varieties may be easily grown, if a cool, deep, rich, moist soil +can be provided for them. The best soil for the Ranunculus is a loam or +clay in which the common field Buttercup grows freely and plentifully. +The situation should be open, the bed well pulverised, and the soil +effectively drained, both to promote a vigorous growth and, as far as +possible, to save the plants from injury by wireworms, leather-jackets, +and other ground vermin. Elaborate modes of manuring, such as mixing +several sorts of manure together in mystical proportions, are altogether +unnecessary, but a good dressing of rotten manure and leaf-mould should +be dug in before planting, and if the soil is particularly heavy, sharp +sand must be added. The roots may be planted in November and December in +gardens where vegetation does not usually suffer from damp in winter; +but where there is any reason to apprehend danger from damp, the +planting should be deferred until February, and should be completed +within the first twenty days of that month, if weather permit. Prepare a +fine surface to plant on, and draw drills six inches apart and two +inches deep, and place the tubers, claws downwards, in the drills, four +inches apart, covering them with sifted soil before drawing the earth +back to the drill. Rake the bed smooth, and the planting is completed. +To keep free from weeds, and to give plentiful supplies of water in dry +weather, are the two principal features of the summer cultivation. When +the flowers are past, and the leaves begin to fade, take up the roots, +dry them in a cool place, and store in peat or cocoa-nut fibre.</p> + +<p><b>Turban Ranunculus.</b>—This class is remarkably handsome, of hardier +constitution and freer growth than the edged and spotted varieties. For +the production of masses of colour, and to form showy clumps in the +borders, the Turban varieties are of the utmost value. They require a +good loam, well manured, and the general treatment advised for the named +varieties; but as they are not so delicate they will thrive under less +congenial conditions.</p> + + +<p><b>SCILLA</b></p> + +<p>The Blue Squill may be grown in exactly the same manner as the Roman +Hyacinth for indoor decoration, and it makes a charming <a name="Page_349" id="Page_349"></a>companion to +that flower. It is perfectly hardy, and for its deep, lovely blue should +be largely grown in the open border, where it appears to especial +advantage in conjunction with Snowdrops. It is also valuable for filling +small beds, and for making marginal lines in the geometric garden.</p> + +<p>The <i>Scilla præcox</i>, or <i>sibirica</i>, thrives on the mountains of North +Italy, where masses of it may be seen growing close to the snow, and in +this country it withstands wind and rain which would be the ruin of many +another flower. Still we like to see it in a sheltered border, where it +has a fair chance of displaying its beauty without much risk of injury. +In such a position it will flower in February, and in the bleakest +quarter it will open in March. It is not at all fastidious as to soil, +but when planted will give no further trouble until the foliage withers, +and it is time to lift the bulbs to make way for other occupants. If +convenient, the roots may remain for years in one spot.</p> + +<p>The <i>Scilla campanulata</i> deserves more attention than it has hitherto +received. After almost all other spring-flowering bulbs are over, it +makes a beautiful display, which lasts until nearly the end of May. It +somewhat resembles the wild Blue-bell, but is much larger than that +woodland flower.</p> + + +<p><b>SNOWDROP</b></p> + +<p>Snowdrops are among the hardiest flowers known to our gardens, and are +invaluable for their welcome snow-white bells in the earliest days of +the opening spring. They should be planted in clumps, and left alone for +years. The double-flowering variety is exquisitely beautiful: we might, +indeed, speak of it as a bit of floral jewellery. The flowers are +bell-shaped, closely packed with petals, like so many microscopic +petticoats arranged for the ‘tiring’ of a fairy: they are snow-white and +sometimes delicately tipped with light green. This variety is as hardy +as the single, and the best for growing in baskets and pots. When +employed in lines the planting ought to be very close together, and the +line should be composed of several rows, making, in fact, a broad band. +Such a ribbon when backed with <i>Scilla sibirica</i> is very beautiful. The +best way of displaying the Snowdrop alone is in large groups densely +crowded together. The effect is much more telling than when the same +number of bulbs is spread over a larger area. Put the roots in drills, +two inches deep, and if possible in a spot where they need not be +disturbed for two or <a name="Page_350" id="Page_350"></a>three years. Snowdrops may be grown in pots, and +be gently forced for Christmas. But unless wanted very early, it will +answer to lift clumps from the border in November and pot them.</p> + + +<p><b>SPARAXIS</b></p> + +<p>See instructions under Ixia at page 338.</p> + + +<p><b>TIGRIDIA, or FERRARIA</b></p> + +<p>The short-lived blossoms of the Tiger Flower are most gorgeously +painted, and differ from everything else of the great family of Irids to +which they belong. Much finer flowers are produced in the border than +when grown in pots, and they present great variety, scarcely any two +amongst hundreds showing flowers exactly alike. The usual time of +planting outdoors is March or April, at a depth of three or four inches, +and the flowers appear in June. Sandy loam and peaty soils are +especially suitable. Although Tigridias are not quite hardy they will on +a dry border pass the winter securely beneath a protection of litter. +But where the soil is damp it is safer to lift them in October and store +in the same manner as Gladioli. A bed of Tigridias makes an agreeable +ornament in front of the window of a breakfast-room, as the flowers are +in a brilliant state in the early hours of the day.</p> + + +<p><b>TRITELEIA UNIFLORA</b></p> + +<p>This little gem belongs to the spring garden, and should be the +companion of the Dog’s-tooth Violet, the Crocus, and the Snowdrop. It +will grow in any soil, and will produce an abundance of its +violet-tinted white flowers, which, when handled, emit a faint odour of +garlic. As a pot plant for the Alpine house it is first-rate. In the +open, plant in October two inches deep.</p> + + +<p><b>TRITONIA</b></p> + +<p>Tritonias are more showy than the Ixia or Sparaxis, but belong to the +same group of South African Irids, and require the same treatment. They +may be planted out in April, if prepared for that mode <a name="Page_351" id="Page_351"></a>of cultivation +by putting them in small pots in November or December. It is not +advisable to tie them to sticks, for they are more elegant when allowed +to fall over the edge of the pots, and suggest the ‘negligence of +Nature.’</p> + + +<p><b>TROPÆOLUM</b></p> + +<p><i>T. tuberosum.</i>—A few of the tuberous-rooted Tropæolums are hardy, but +it is not wise to leave them in the ground, for damp may destroy them, +if they are proof against frost. They are all graceful trailing plants, +adapted for covering wire trellises, and may be flowered at any season +if required, though their natural season is the summer. The compost in +which they thrive best is a light rich loam, containing a large +proportion of sand. The stems are usually trained on wires, but they may +be allowed to fall down from a pot or basket with excellent effect, to +form a most attractive tracery of leafage dotted with dazzling flowers. +The sunniest part of the greenhouse should be devoted to the Tropæolums, +and special care should be taken in potting them to secure ample +drainage.</p> + +<p><i>T. speciosum.</i>—This showy variety is quite hardy, and is largely grown +in Scotland where it may frequently be seen on cottage walls. The roots +may be planted in either spring or autumn, and a moist, somewhat shaded +position best suits the plant.</p> + + +<p><b>TUBEROSE</b></p> + +<p><b>Polianthes tuberosa</b></p> + +<p>This bulb is extensively grown in the South of France for the delicious +perfume obtainable from its numerous pure white flowers. In this country +it is widely known, but considering the beauty and exceeding fragrance +of the blossoms it is astonishing that a greater number are not planted +every season. Perhaps the fact that the bulbs are valueless after the +first year may in a measure account for the comparatively limited +culture. They are easily flowered as pot plants in a mixture of loam and +leaf-mould, plunged in a bottom heat ranging between 60° and 70°. The +growth is rather tall, and unless kept near the glass the stems become +unsightly in length.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352"></a><b>TULIP</b></p> + +<p><b>Culture in Pots.</b>—When grown in pots, Tulips are treated in precisely +the same manner as the Hyacinth, but several bulbs, according to their +size and the purpose they are intended for, are placed in a pot. When +required to fill épergnes and baskets, and other elegant receptacles, it +is a good plan to grow them in shallow boxes, as recommended for +Crocuses, and transfer them when in flower to the vases and baskets. +This mode of procedure insures exactitude of height and colouring, +whereas, when the bulbs are grown from the first in the ornamental +vessels, they may not flower with sufficient uniformity to produce a +satisfactory display. In common with the Hyacinth and Crocus, Tulips may +be taken out of the soil in which they have been grown, and after +washing the roots clean, they can be inserted in glasses for decorating +an apartment. Early Tulips are often employed in this way to light up +festive gatherings at Christmas and the early months of the year. But +the pot culture of Tulips need not be restricted to the early varieties. +The Darwin and May-flowering classes are also admirable when grown in +this way, but it is important they should not be hurried into bloom. If +placed in moderate heat and allowed ample time to develop, beautiful +long-stemmed flowers may be had in March which will make a charming +decoration for the drawing-room or the dinner-table.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in Moss-fibre.</b>—No bulb excels the Tulip in adaptability for +bowl culture, given the treatment suggested for Narcissi and Daffodils +on page 345, and particularly with respect to moisture.</p> + +<p><b>Culture in the Open Ground.</b>—For general usefulness the early Tulips +are the most valuable of all, because of their peculiarly accommodating +nature, their many and brilliant colours, and their suitability for the +formation of rich masses in the flower garden. Any good soil will suit +them, and they may be planted in quantities under trees if the position +enjoys some amount of sunshine, because they will have finished their +growth before the leafage of the trees shades them injuriously. If it is +necessary to prepare or improve the soil for them, the aim should be to +render it rich and sandy, and sufficiently drained to avoid a boggy +character in winter. Plant in October or November, four or five inches +deep, and six inches apart. The roots require no water and no supports, +and may all be taken up and stored away in good time for the usual +summer display of <a name="Page_353" id="Page_353"></a>bedding plants. For geometric planting it is +important to select the varieties with care, but a most interesting +border may be made by planting clumps of all the best sorts of the +several classes. The result will be a long-continued and splendid +display, beginning with the ‘Van Thols’ (which are as hardy as any), +following with the early class in almost endless variety, and finishing +with the noble Darwin and May-flowering sections. The last named include +a very large number of extremely handsome flowers, and their lasting +beauty is of especial value at a season of the year when spring blooms +are over and summer plants have scarcely begun to make a show.</p> + +<p>As cut flowers Tulips are worthy of special attention. With very little +care they not only maintain their full beauty in vases for a fortnight, +but some of them actually increase in brilliancy of colouring. The +May-flowering classes are perhaps the most appreciated for cutting, +because of their great length of stem and the enduring character of the +flowers. They are extremely beautiful in tall vases.</p> + + +<p><b>VALLOTA PURPUREA</b></p> + +<p>This brilliant plant is nearly hardy in the Southern counties, and a +cool greenhouse plant where it cannot be grown in the open border. To +produce fine specimens a firm loamy soil is necessary, with abundance of +water all the summer, and moderate supplies all the winter. The bulbs +flower more freely when somewhat pot-bound. Therefore they should not be +re-potted too often. Under these conditions feeding with clear liquid +manure is necessary once a week from the time the flower-buds show until +they begin to open. To dry off the bulb may weaken or kill it. Those who +cannot cultivate the Amaryllis will find the Vallota an excellent +substitute.</p> + + +<p><b>VIOLET, DOG’S-TOOTH</b>—<i>see page 327</i></p> + + +<p><b>WINTER ACONITE</b></p> + +<p>The Winter Aconite is the very ‘firstling’ of the year, for it blooms in +advance of the Snowdrop, covering the ground with gilt spangles in the +bleakest days of February. Any soil or situation will suit it, and it +should be planted in large patches where a winter’s walk in the <a name="Page_354" id="Page_354"></a>garden +affords pleasure. It should also be grown in quantity within view from +the windows, for the benefit of those who, in the dreary season, cannot +get out. The bulbs may be left in the ground for several years, or they +may be taken up and stored after the leaves have perished.</p> + + +<p><b>ZEPHYRANTHES CANDIDA</b></p> + +<p><b>Flower of the West Wind</b></p> + +<p>A dwarf white Crocus-like flower, with foliage resembling the common +Rush on a small scale. Plant in clumps from November to March in +borders, and it will commence blooming about the end of July, and +continue in flower until frost cuts it down. Any soil will suit this +plant, and it thrives for several years if left undisturbed.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355"></a> +<a name="FLOWERS_ALL_THE_YEAR_ROUND_FROM_SEEDS_AND_ROOTS" id="FLOWERS_ALL_THE_YEAR_ROUND_FROM_SEEDS_AND_ROOTS"></a> +FLOWERS ALL THE YEAR ROUND FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS</h2> + +<p>Before proceeding to the duties which need attention in successive +months of the year, it may be worth while to consider some of the points +which constitute the alphabet of flower culture. To grow any plant in a +pot is an artificial proceeding, and the conditions for its sustenance +and health have to be provided. Among these conditions are temperature +and accommodation. It is useless to attempt to grow flowers which +require heat unless that necessity can be met. And it is equally useless +to pot more plants than the space will accommodate when they attain +their full size. A limited number, well grown, will produce a greater +wealth of bloom, of finer quality, than a larger number which become +feeble from deficiency of space for development. Nevertheless, there are +many varieties raised in heat in the early months of the year which can +be grown and flowered in the most satisfactory manner, without any kind +of artificial aid, from sowings made in the open ground during April or +May. The flowering will be somewhat later than from plants brought +forward under glass; but as they receive no check from the very +commencement, they will not be greatly behind their nursed relations; +and they may even excel them in robust beauty, if they are treated +intelligently and with a generous hand.</p> + +<p><b>Good Soil</b> for pot plants is not always obtainable at a reasonable +cost, and sometimes the materials at hand must be made to serve the +purpose. None the less is it true, that in proportion to the skill and +experience of the cultivator will be his desire to secure a supply of +loam, peat, and leaf-mould. Those who are capable of turning poor soil +to the best account are precisely the men who will be most <a name="Page_356" id="Page_356"></a>anxious to +obtain the materials which are known to promote the luxuriant growth of +pot plants.</p> + +<p>The top spit of an old pasture makes capital potting soil. If taken from +light land, it need only be stacked for one year before use. A heavy +loam should be kept for at least two seasons, and in any case the heap +should be turned and re-made several times. A slight sprinkling of soot +between the layers of soil will be beneficial, and help to make it +distasteful to grubs, wireworms, and other vermin. The frequent turning +of the heap will not be wasted labour, for it equalises the quality, and +tends to sweeten the whole by exposing new surfaces to the atmosphere; +and this is a great aid to healthy growth.</p> + +<p>Many plants thrive in peat, or in soil of which peat is a constituent, +and some flowers cannot be grown without it. The peat may have to be +purchased from a distance, but there is no difficulty in obtaining it.</p> + +<p>A constant supply of decayed leaf-mould may possibly be arranged on the +spot by sweeping up leaves and making a fresh heap every fall. In due +time these leaves will decay and make useful potting soil. If this is +out of the question, the requisite quantity must be purchased.</p> + +<p>The preparation of soil for pot plants is frequently postponed until the +day on which it is actually required. This is a bad practice, and +results too often in the use of an improper proportion of the materials, +and perhaps in their defective admixture. In this, as in all other +operations connected with horticulture, the men who make all requisite +arrangements in advance will achieve the highest results. In no pursuit +of life is it more necessary to forecast coming wants than in the +culture of flowers. We will suppose that three or four weeks hence many +pots are to be filled with Primulas. The man who grows this flower with +any degree of enthusiasm will not defer the preparation of the soil +until the day arrives for potting the plants. He will determine in +advance the proportions of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, have the whole +thoroughly incorporated, and possibly sifted to remove stones. With +these may come away some undecayed fibres, which make excellent material +for laying over the crocks at the bottom of each pot. Forethought of +this kind is certain of an ample reward.</p> + +<p>Potting soil should also be in the right condition as to moisture. This +is not easy to describe, but it must handle freely, and yet there should +be no necessity for the immediate application of water after sowing +seeds or planting bulbs. In the event of the compost <a name="Page_357" id="Page_357"></a>being too dry, +give it a soaking and allow it to rest for one or more days, according +to the time of year and the state of the atmosphere.</p> + +<p><b>Pots, new or old</b>, should be soaked in water before use. They are very +porous, and by absorbing moisture from the soil they may at once make it +too dry, although in exactly the right condition before being placed in +the pots. And old pots ought never to be used until they have been +scrubbed quite clean. These may appear to be trivial matters, unworthy +of attention. They have, however, an influence on the health of plants, +and experienced growers know that a few apparent trifles make all the +difference between success and failure. Pots which are dirty, or covered +with green moss, prevent access of air, and tend to bring about a sickly +growth. Cleanliness in horticulture is valuable for its own sake, and +for the orderly routine it necessitates on the part of the cultivator.</p> + +<p>Pots are known both by number and by size. They are sold by the ‘cast,’ +and a cast always consists of the distinguishing number. The following +are the numbers and sizes:—</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Pot casts"> +<tr><td align='left'>Number in Cast</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Inches</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>72</td><td align='left'>Inside diameter</td><td align='left'>across top</td><td align='right'>2-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Small</td><td align='right'>60</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>2-3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mid.</td><td align='right'>60</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Large</td><td align='right'>60</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>3-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Small</td><td align='right'>54</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Large</td><td align='right'>54</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>4-1/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Small</td><td align='right'>48</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>4-3/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Large</td><td align='right'>48</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>40</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>5-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>32</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>6-1/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>28</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>7-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>8-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>9-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>12-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>15-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='center'>”</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><b>Watering</b> is sometimes conducted on the principle that the usual time +has arrived, and therefore the plants must have water. But do they need +it? Press the fingers firmly on the surface; if <a name="Page_358" id="Page_358"></a>particles of soil +adhere it is too dry. Or tap the pots smartly with the knuckles or with +a stick, when a clear and unmistakable answer will be obtained. Plants +differ widely in their demand for water. Some are very thirsty, others +require less frequent attention. The season of the year and the state of +the atmosphere have also to be considered, as well as the fact that a +heavy soil is more retentive of moisture than a lighter compost. A +watchful eye and a willing hand will seldom err on this point. The water +should always be of the same temperature as the house, otherwise the +plants will be constantly checked. A tank in the greenhouse meets this +requirement. In its absence, the watering-pots should be kept full under +the stage, and they will be ready when wanted.</p> + +<p>In the open ground, it is better to water a few plots thoroughly for two +or three successive evenings, and then have an interval, rather than +moisten the surface daily. The effect of constantly applying small +quantities of water is to encourage the surface growth of roots. Then, +if the sun shines fiercely on the soil, the first day of neglect results +in immense mischief.</p> + +<p><b>Drainage</b> is easily managed. Into each pot put a crock almost the size +of the bottom, with the convex side upwards. There need be no niggling +to remove sharp angles, or to make the fragment shapely. Cover this with +smaller crocks, and these with moss, or in some cases with small pieces +of charcoal. If the compost has a proper admixture of sharp sand or +grit, free drainage will be insured, and yet the soil cannot be washed +through the pot. Silver sand is often employed, and there is nothing +better for the purpose. But the sweepings from gravel walks, finely +sifted, may be substituted. Road grit is often infested with weed seeds.</p> + +<p><b>Ventilation</b> is important, for a house full of plants cannot long be +kept closed with impunity. The lights should be opened whenever the +state of the weather may permit, and by doing this on the side opposite +to the quarter whence the wind blows it is frequently safe to give air +when it may be dangerous from other points of the compass; and it should +be done early in the day, before the sun gets hot. Often the lights +remain closed on a sunny morning until the atmosphere becomes stifling; +and then perhaps plants which have been made sensitive by excess of heat +are subjected to a killing draught.</p> + +<p><b>In managing Temperature</b>, there should be no violent alternations of +heat and cold, for these bring speedy disaster; and, it is unwise to +employ more heat than is actually necessary. Deviations <a name="Page_359" id="Page_359"></a>from this rule +are generally traceable to neglect. If the proper season for sowing seed +of some important flower has been allowed to pass, an attempt is made to +compensate for lost time by hurrying the growth in a forcing +temperature. Every needless degree of heat will be harmful, and result +in attenuated growth, poverty of colour, or in the attack of some insect +plague which the weakly plant seldom invites in vain. It is wise always +to employ the lowest temperature in which plants will flourish. This +necessitates the proper time for their full development, and will result +in a sturdy growth capable of yielding a bountiful display of bloom. +Occasionally it is requisite to force some special subject, such as +bulbs for Christmas festivities. Even then it is advisable to augment +the temperature very gradually, and to defer the employment of its +highest power until the latest possible moment.</p> + +<p>Plants are frequently taken straight from the forcing pit into a cold +room, to their utter ruin. A moment’s reflection will show the folly of +such a proceeding. They should be prepared for the change by gradual +transfer through lower temperatures; and if only a few hours are +occupied in the process it will help them to pass the ordeal with less +injury.</p> + +<p>It should be an established custom to examine the seed-pans at least +once every day, and morning is the best time for the task. If work has +to be done, there is the whole day to arrange for its accomplishment. +Whereas, if the visit is not made until evening, there may not remain +sufficient daylight to do what is necessary. Just as seedlings are +starting, a few hours’ neglect will render them weak and leggy.</p> + +<p>When transferring plants from seed-pans, it is usual to put them round +the edges of pots. This is no mere caprice, but is founded on the +well-ascertained fact that seedlings establish their roots with greater +readiness near the edge of the pot than away from it.</p> + +<p>In the following monthly notes, our principal object is to offer a +series of reminders which will insure the sowing of various flower seeds +and the planting of bulbs at their proper periods, and thus save the +disappointment of losing some important display for a whole season. +Those who have command of large resources will sow certain seeds a month +earlier than we recommend, and their intimate knowledge and abundant +facilities justify their practice. But we have especially in view the +possibilities for an amateur, and of gardens moderate in extent, where +appliances may not be of the most perfect kind.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360"></a>When seeds are once sown or bulbs potted, the work is before the +cultivator, and appeals mutely for attention. Therefore it is not our +purpose to give detailed and continuous instructions month by month for +every flower. Our remarks are limited to hints at the time for sowing or +planting, and to some few points which may subsequently appear to demand +notice.</p> + +<p>For convenience of reference, the subjects are presented alphabetically +under each month.</p> + + +<p><b>JANUARY</b>.</p> + + +<p>In the open ground there is little or nothing of interest in the way of +flowers, but the greenhouses and pits are full of promise. A constant +watch must be kept on the barometer, and the materials for repelling +frost or bleak winds should be at perfect command, so that there may be +ample provision for saving plants from biting weather.</p> + +<p><b>Achimenes</b> are stove bulbs and cannot be grown without a sufficiency of +heat. A warm greenhouse will answer for them, and some gardeners produce +fair specimens in frames over hot-beds. The bulbs will lie dormant for a +considerable time, so that it is easy to have a succession of flowers. A +few should be started in January, employing sandy loam for the pots. +Follow up with others at intervals.</p> + +<p><b>Amaryllis</b> may be sown in any month of the year, but the most +satisfactory period is immediately after the seed is ripened, and it is +advisable to put one seed only in each small pot. The slow and irregular +germination of the finest new seed makes the separate system almost a +necessity. A rich compost, well-drained pots, and a temperature of about +65° suit these plants.</p> + +<p><b>Anemone</b>.—See remarks under October.</p> + +<p><b>Antirrhinums</b> raised in heat now will flower from July onwards. Prick +off the seedlings, and gradually harden for planting out in May. There +are dwarf, medium, and tall varieties, of many beautiful colours.</p> + +<p><b>Begonia, Tuberous-rooted</b>.—The grace and beauty of this plant have +placed it in the front rank of popular favourites. For the foliage alone +it is worth growing, and the flowers are unique in both form and colour. +Raising plants from seed is not only the least expensive process, but it +possesses all the charm arising from the hope of some novelty which +shall eclipse previously known varieties.<a name="Page_361" id="Page_361"></a> As a matter of fact, new +attractions either in colour or in habit are introduced almost every +year. From a sowing made now plants should flower in July and August.</p> + +<p>The seed is small, and requires careful handling. It is also slow and +capricious in germinating, and many growers have their own pet methods +of starting it. Good results are obtained by insuring free drainage, and +partly filling the pots with rather rough fibrous compost, covered with +a layer of fine sandy loam made even for a seed-bed. This is sprinkled +with water, and the seed is sown very thinly. Some experienced growers +make a rather loose surface, press the seed gently into it, and do not +finish with a covering of soil. The majority, however, will find it +safer to give a slight sifting of fine earth over the seed. Then comes a +trial of patience, and as the seedlings appear at intervals, the wisdom +of thin sowing will be apparent, for each one can be lifted and potted +as it becomes ready, without wasting the remainder. An even temperature +of about 65° is essential during germination.</p> + +<p>Begonia bulbs which have been stored through the winter will need +careful watching. Not until they start naturally should there be any +attempt to induce growth, or in all probability it will result in the +destruction of the bulb. Such as show signs of life should be potted in +good soil, commencing with small pots, and shifting into larger sizes as +the pots become full of roots. Until the final size is reached, remove +all flowers. A warm humid atmosphere is favourable to them while +growing, but when flowering begins moisture will be injurious.</p> + +<p><b>Begonia, Fibrous-rooted</b>, may also be sown at the end of this month or +in February, and again early in March. Under similar treatment to that +advised for Tuberous-rooted Begonias, the plants will be ready in June +for transfer to beds or as an edging to borders.</p> + +<p><b>Canna</b>.—From the popular name of Indian Shot it will naturally be +inferred that the seed is extremely hard and spherical. It needs soaking +in water for about twenty-four hours before sowing. Even then it will +probably be a considerable time in germinating, and there will also be +variable intervals between the appearance of the seedlings. A high +temperature is necessary to insure a start; but after the young plants +are transferred to single pots, they should be kept steadily going in a +more moderate heat until ready for the border or sub-tropical garden in +June. Meanwhile they will need re-potting two or three times, and should +have a rich and rather stiff compost.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362"></a><b>Carnation</b>.—Seed of the early-flowering class should be sown in heat +during this month and again in February. With very little trouble, +plants can be brought forward and transferred to the open ground, where +they will give a splendid display in about six months from the date of +sowing.</p> + +<p><b>Chrysanthemums</b> of the large-flowering perennial type can easily be +raised from seed. If sown during this month or in February in a moderate +heat, the plants will flower the first season. Pot the seedlings +immediately they are ready, then harden, and put them out of doors as +early as may be safe. This treatment will keep them dwarf and robust. +Seedlings should not be stopped, but be allowed to grow quite naturally.</p> + +<p><b>Cinerarias</b> should have air whenever it is possible. Choose the middle +of the day for watering, and do not slop the water about carelessly, or +mildew may result. In houses which are not lighted all round, the plants +should be turned regularly to prevent them from facing one way. Such +specimens are worthless for the dinner-table, and will be diminished in +value for decorating the drawing-room.</p> + +<p><b>Cyclamens</b> are still in the height of their beauty. The pots have +become so full of roots that ordinary watering partially fails of its +purpose. An occasional immersion of the pots for about half an hour will +result in marked benefit to the plants. The flowers, when taken from the +corm, should be lifted by a smart pull. If cut, the stems bleed and +exhaust the root.</p> + +<p>Where a succession of this flower is valued, a sowing should be made in +this month. Dibble the seed, an inch apart and a quarter of an inch +deep, in pots or pans firmly filled with rich porous soil; and place in +heat of not less than 56° and not exceeding 70°; the less the +temperature varies the better. Cyclamen seed is both slow and irregular +in germinating, and sometimes proves a sore trial even to those who are +blessed with patience. As the seedlings become ready transfer to small +pots, and shift on as growth demands, always keeping the crown of the +corm free from soil. The increasing power of the sun will render shading +essential; yet a position near the glass is most advantageous to the +plants.</p> + +<p><b>Freesia</b>.—This elegant and delicately perfumed flower is annually +raised in large numbers from seed. From this month to March sowings may +be made in heat, and as the roots are extremely brittle, re-potting is a +delicate operation.</p> + +<p><b>Gesnera</b>.—Those who have once grown this handsome conservatory plant +will not afterwards consent to be without it. The <a name="Page_363" id="Page_363"></a>richly marked foliage +contrasts admirably with the flowers. Sow in the manner advised for +Gloxinia, and the two plants may be grown in the same house.</p> + +<p><b>Gloxinia</b>.—From two or three sowings, and by a little management, it +is easy to have a supply of this magnificent flower in every month of +the year. Sow thinly in new pots filled with a light porous compost, and +see that the drainage is exceptionally good. Give the pots a warm moist +position, and a light sprinkling of water daily will assist germination. +The first seedlings that are ready should be lifted and pricked off +without disturbing the remainder of the soil. Follow up the process +until all are transferred. Although the leaves may rest on the surface, +the hearts should never be covered. Pot off singly when large enough, +and shift on until the 48-size is reached. For ordinary plants this is +large enough, but extra fine specimens need more pot room, and so long +as increased space is given the flowering will be deferred. Between the +plants there must be a clear space or the leaves will decay through +contact. While growing, a moist atmosphere, with a temperature of 60° or +65 °, will suit them; but immediately flowering commences, humidity is a +source of mischief. The most forward plants from this month’s sowing +will, if well treated, begin to flower in June.</p> + +<p><b>Grevillea robusta</b>.—Seed of this exceedingly handsome shrub may be +sown at any time of the year, and the pots containing it must be kept +moist until the seedlings appear. How long it will be before they become +visible we cannot tell. Germination may not occur until hope has died, +and the pots have been contemptuously relegated to some obscure corner. +But after the young plants are pricked off, they will give no trouble, +except to re-pot them two or three times, and to take care that they do +not perish for want of water.</p> + +<p><b>Hollyhock</b>.—This stately border flower is occasionally grown and +flowered as an annual, and some gardeners succeed in producing +satisfactory plants, carrying fine double blossoms, superb in colour and +of noble proportions. Where this method is possible it is necessary to +sow in the opening month of the year, and to use well-drained pots or +seed-pans. Cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine soil, and place in a +temperature of 65° or 700. In about a fortnight the seedlings will be +ready for pricking off round the edges of 4 1/2-inch pots. But as a rule +the finest spikes are obtained from a sowing in July or August.</p> + +<p><b>Petunia</b>.—About the third week of this month a sowing should be made +to produce plants for indoor decoration. Late in February <a name="Page_364" id="Page_364"></a>or early in +March will be soon enough to prepare for bedding stuff. Sow thinly in +good porous soil, and give the pots or pans a temperature of about 60°. +They should have a little extra attention just as the seed is +germinating, for that is a critical time with Petunias. Uniformity in +temperature and moisture, with shade when necessary, and plenty of pot +room, are the secrets of success in growing these plants.</p> + +<p><b>Statice</b>.—The Sea Lavenders make attractive border subjects, but the +sprays of flowers are probably still more valued for cutting and, when +dried, for the winter decoration of vases in association with +Everlastings. Seed of the half-hardy varieties may be sown from January +to March in gentle heat, transferring the plants to the open in due +course.</p> + +<p><b>Verbena</b>.—This flower should be grown with as little artificial aid as +possible. In fact, the more nearly it is treated as a hardy plant the +more vigorous and free blooming will it be. A temperature of 60° is +sufficient to raise the seed at this period of the year; and after the +plants are established in pots, heat may be gradually dispensed with. +Sow in pans or boxes filled with rich, mellow, and very sweet soil. +Transfer to thumb pots when large enough, and give one more shift as +growth demands, until the plants are ready for bedding out in May. There +is a choice of distinct colours, which come true from seed. Green fly is +very partial to the Verbena, especially while in pots; it must be kept +down, or the seedlings will make no progress.</p> + + +<p><b>FEBRUARY</b></p> + + +<p>A Considerable number of important flowers should be sown during this +month. The precise dates depend on the district, the character of the +season, and the resources of the cultivator. Should the month open with +frost, or with rough, wet weather, it will be wise to exercise a little +patience. Where there are insufficient means for battling with sudden +variations of temperature, choose the end rather than the beginning of +the month for starting tender subjects. Govern the work by intelligent +observation, instead of following hard and fast rules. But in no case +should fear of the weather form an excuse for the postponement of +necessary work.</p> + +<p><b>Annuals and Biennials, Hardy</b>.—It is one of the merits of hardy +annuals and biennials sown in late summer for blooming in <a name="Page_365" id="Page_365"></a>the following +spring that they need very little attention. Still, they ought not to be +entirely neglected. They should be kept scrupulously free from weeds, +and it may be evident that a mulch of decayed manure is necessary to +protect and strengthen them for a rich display of colour in the spring. +Such varieties as have to be transplanted should be watched, and the +first suitable opportunity seized for transferring them to flowering +positions.</p> + +<p><b>Abutilon</b> is a flowering greenhouse shrub which answers well under the +treatment of an annual. It does not need a forcing temperature at any +stage, nor is the plant fastidious as to soil. The seed, which is both +slow and irregular in germinating, may be sown in pots. As the young +plants become ready they should be pricked off and kept steadily +growing. When leaves drop, it indicates mismanagement, perhaps +starvation. A well-grown specimen, when the buds show, will be two feet +high, and bear examination all round.</p> + +<p><b>Anemone</b>.—Against the practice of planting roots of this elegant +flower we have not a word to say. On the contrary, there is much to be +advanced in its favour. Arrangements of colour can be secured which are +impossible of attainment from seedlings. Still, there can be no doubt +that the supposed necessity of depending alone on bulbs has proved a +barrier to the growth of Anemones in many gardens, and on a large scale. +The culture from seed is of the simplest character, no appliances +whatever beyond those at the command of the cottager being needed. The +prime requisite is a rich moist soil. Where this does not exist +naturally, a liberal dressing of mellow cow-manure, and, in dry weather, +a diligent employment of the water-can, will render it possible to grow +superb flowers of brilliant colour. The best way of making the seed-bed +is to open a trench, putting a layer of decayed manure at the bottom, +and mingling a further quantity with the soil when it is returned. The +addition of some light compost or sand to the surface may or may not be +necessary to prepare it for the seed. We prefer sowing in rows and +lightly scratching the seed in. Some growers only sift a little sand +over, and the practice answers well. Weeds must be removed with care +until the seedlings appear, and these are a long time in coming. +Thinning to six inches apart, and keeping the bed clean and moist, +constitute the whole remainder of the work of growing Anemones.</p> + +<p><b>Aquilegia</b> sown this month in a frame will produce plants which may +flower later in the year, provided the season is favourable; <a name="Page_366" id="Page_366"></a>but they +will certainly pay for this early sowing in the succeeding spring. The +plant is quite hardy, therefore seed may be sown later on in the open +for a display in the following year.</p> + +<p><b>Asparagus</b> (<i>Greenhouse foliage varieties</i>).—The finely feathered +sprays of <i>A. plumosus</i> have become indispensable for bouquets, +buttonholes, and general decorative purposes. <i>A. decumbens</i> and <i>A. +Sprengeri</i> are most graceful plants in hanging-baskets. Seed of the +three varieties should be sown in heat in either February or March.</p> + +<p><b>Auricula</b>.—The Show Auricula is one of the reigning beauties of the +floral world, and, like the Rose, has its own special exhibitions. +Although the flower merits all the admiration it receives, yet it must +be confessed that some amateurs indulge in a great deal of needless +coddling in the work of raising it. One quality there must be in the +grower, and that is patience; for seed saved from a single plant in any +given season, and sown at one time, will germinate in the most irregular +manner. Months may elapse between the appearance of the first and the +last plant. The lesson to sow thinly is obvious, so that the seedlings +may be lifted as they become ready, without disturbing the surrounding +soil. Both the Show and the Alpine varieties should be sown in pans +filled with a mixture of sweet sandy loam and leaf-mould. They may be +started in gentle heat, but this is quite optional. The Auricula is +thoroughly hardy against cold, and glass is only employed as a +protection against wind, heavy rain, and atmospheric deposits.</p> + +<p><b>Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.</b>—Seed may still be sown for a summer +display. Transplant seedlings which are ready, and later on pot them +singly.</p> + +<p><b>Calceolaria, Shrubby</b>.—Seeds sown in pans placed in a frame or a +greenhouse of moderate temperature will insure plants for outdoor summer +decoration. Transfer the seedlings to pots quite early.</p> + +<p><b>Campanula</b>.—By sowing seed in gentle heat during February many of the +Campanulas will flower the same season. These hardy plants require but +little heat, and they should be given as much light and air as possible. +They may be grown on in pots for the decoration of rooms or the +conservatory, or planted out on good ground in the open border. The +half-hardy trailing variety, <i>C. fragilis</i>, is specially adapted for +suspended baskets or large vases. Seed is generally sown in February or +March; when ready the seedlings are transferred to pots.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367"></a><b>Celosia plumosa</b>.—Seed may be sown either now or in March, and the +routine recommended for Cockscombs will develop splendid plumes. Re-pot +in good time to prevent the roots from growing through the bottoms of +the pots.</p> + +<p><b>Cockscomb</b>.—The ideal Cockscomb is a dwarf, well-furnished plant, with +large, symmetrical, and intensely coloured combs. Seed of a first-class +strain will produce a fair proportion of such plants in the hands of a +man who understands their treatment. Sow in seed-pans filled with rich, +sweet, friable loam, and place in a brisk temperature. Transfer the +seedlings very early to small pots, and shift on until the size is +reached in which they are to flower. Directly they become root-bound the +combs will be formed.</p> + +<p><b>Cosmea</b>.—To prevent the disappointment which is sometimes experienced +by growers of this attractive half-hardy annual, it is essential to sow +a reliable early-flowering strain. Start the seed on a gentle hot-bed in +February and plant out the seedlings in May or June when the danger from +frost is past.</p> + +<p><b>Dahlia</b>.—Both the double and single classes can be grown and flowered +from seed as half-hardy annuals. A sowing in this month will supply +plants sufficiently forward to bloom at the usual time. Some growers +begin in January, and provided they have room and the work can be +followed up without risking a check at any stage, no objection can be +raised to the practice. For most gardens, however, February is safer, +and March will not be too late. Sow thinly in pots or pans filled with +light rich soil, and finish with a very thin covering of fine +leaf-mould. When the seedlings are about an inch high, pot them +separately, taking special care of the weakly specimens, for these in +point of colour may prove to be the gems of the collection. After +transplanting, a little extra attention will help them to a fresh start.</p> + +<p><b>Dianthus</b>.—From sowings made this month or in January, all the +varieties may be raised in about 55° or 60° of heat, but immediately the +seed has germinated it is important to put the pots in a lower +temperature, or the seedlings will become soft. They should also be +transferred to seed-pans when large enough to handle.</p> + +<p><b>Fuchsia</b>.—It is now widely known that Fuchsias can be satisfactorily +flowered from seed in six or seven months, and from a good strain there +will be seedlings well worth growing. Sow thinly on a rich firm soil, +and give the pots a temperature of about 70°. While quite small transfer +the plants to the edges of well-drained pots, and later on pot them +singly into a compost consisting chiefly of leaf-mould until the +flowering size is reached, when a proportion of <a name="Page_368" id="Page_368"></a>decayed cow-manure +should be added. The Fuchsia is a gross feeder, and must have abundance +of food and water. Aphis and thrips are persistent enemies of this +plant, and will need constant attention.</p> + +<p><b>Geranium</b> seed may be sown at any time of the year, but there are good +reasons why the months of February and August should be chosen. +Seedlings raised now will make fine plants by the end of June, and begin +to flower in August. They are robust in habit, and from a reliable +strain there will be a considerable proportion of handsome specimens. +Sow in pans filled with soil somewhat rough in texture, and the surface +need not be very smooth. Lightly cover the seed with fine loam. To have +plants ready for flowering in the summer it will be necessary to give +the seed-pans a temperature of 60° or 70°, and follow the usual practice +of pricking off and potting the seedlings.</p> + +<p><b>Gladiolus</b>.—It is not common to grow this noble flower from seed, but +the task is simple, and seed good enough to be worth the experiment is +obtainable. In large pots, well drained and filled with fibrous loam and +leaf-mould, dibble the seeds separately an inch apart and half an inch +deep. A temperature of 65° or 70° will bring them up, and when they +reach an inch high the heat should be gradually reduced. The seedlings +need not be transplanted, but may remain in the same pots until the +grass dies down, and the corms are sifted out in September or October.</p> + +<p><b>Gloxinia</b>.—The directions under January are applicable, but it will be +necessary to provide shade for the seedlings as the sun becomes hot, +especially after they have been re-potted.</p> + +<p><b>Kochia trichophylla</b>.—A beautiful half-hardy ornamental annual shrub, +symmetrical in form. From seed sown during this month or in March plants +can easily be raised for indoor decoration or to furnish a supply for +beds and borders. When well grown and allowed plenty of space from the +beginning, each specimen forms a dense mass of bright green foliage +which changes to russet-crimson in autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Lobelias</b> occupy a foremost place for bedding, and are sufficiently +diversified to meet many requirements. Indeed, there is no other blue +flower which can challenge its position. The compact class is specially +adapted for edgings; the spreading varieties answer admirably in borders +where a sharply defined line of colour is not essential; the <i>gracilis</i> +strain has a charming effect in suspended baskets, window-boxes, and +rustic work; and the <i>ramosa</i> section grows from nine to twelve inches +high, producing large flowers. All <a name="Page_369" id="Page_369"></a>these may be sown now as annuals, to +produce plants for bedding out in May. Put the seed into sandy soil, and +start the pans in a gentle heat.</p> + +<p><b>Mimulus,</b> if sown now and treated as a greenhouse annual, will flower +in the first year. It is one of the thirstiest plants grown in this +country, and must have unstinted supplies of water.</p> + +<p><b>Nicotiana.</b>—Where sub-tropical gardening is practised the Tobacco +plant is indispensable. To develop its fine proportions there must be +the utmost liberality of treatment from the commencement. Either in this +month or early in March sow in rich soil, and place the pans in a warm +house or pit. Put the seedlings early into small pots, and promote a +rapid but sturdy growth, until the weather is warm enough for them in +the open ground. The Nicotiana also makes an admirable pot plant for the +conservatory or greenhouse, where it is especially valued for its +delightful fragrance.</p> + +<p><b>Pansy.</b>—Although the Pansy will grow almost anywhere, a moist, rich +soil, partially shaded from summer sun, is necessary to do the plant +full justice. Many distinct colours are saved separately, and the +quality of the seedlings is so good that propagation by cuttings is +gradually declining. Sow thinly in pots or pans, and when the young +plants have been pricked off, put them in a cool, safe corner until +large enough for bedding out. The soil should be plentifully dressed +with decayed cow-manure.</p> + +<p><b>Pelargonium.</b>—In raising seedling Pelargoniums, it is well to bear in +mind that worthless seed takes just as much time and attention as does a +first-class strain. The simplest greenhouse culture will suffice to +bring the plants to perfection. A light sandy loam suits them, and the +pots need not go beyond the 48-or at most the 32-size. Flowering will be +deferred until re-potting ceases.</p> + +<p><b>Petunia.</b>—Towards the end of the month the seedlings raised in January +for pot culture will be ready for transferring to seed-pans. It will +also be time to sow for bedding plants, although the beginning of March +is not too late.</p> + +<p><b>Phlox Drummondii.</b>—The attention devoted to this flower has made it +one of the most varied and brilliant half-hardy annuals we possess. The +<i>grandiflora</i> section includes numerous splendid bedding subjects which +flower freely, and continue in bloom for a long period. These and others +are also valuable as pot plants, and even in the greenhouse or +conservatory they are conspicuous for their rich colours. All the +varieties may be sown now in well-drained pans or shallow boxes. Press +the seeds into good soil about <a name="Page_370" id="Page_370"></a>an inch apart, and as a rule this will +save transplanting; but if transplanting becomes necessary, take out +alternate plants and put into other pans, or pot them separately. The +remainder will then have room to grow until the time arrives for bedding +out.</p> + +<p><b>Polyanthus.</b>—Either now or in March sow in pans filled with any fairly +good potting soil, and do not be impatient about the germination of the +seed. Many sowings of good seed have been thrown away because it was not +known that the Polyanthus partakes of the slow and irregular +characteristics of this class of plants. As the seedlings become ready, +lift them carefully and transplant into pans or boxes, from which a +little later they may be moved to any secluded corner of the border, +until in September they are put into flowering quarters. While in the +seed-pans they must be kept moist, although excessive watering is to be +avoided. Should the summer prove dry, they will also need water when in +the open ground.</p> + +<p><b>Primroses</b> of good colours are admirably adapted for indoor decoration, +and there is no occasion to grow them in pots for the purpose. Lift the +required number from the reserve border without exposing the roots; pot +them, and place in a cool frame until established. Plenty of space, no +more water than is absolutely essential, and progressive ventilation, +comprise all the needful details of cultivation. Seed sown in this month +or in March, in pans or boxes, will produce fine plants for flowering in +the succeeding year.</p> + +<p><b>Primula</b>.—The elegant half-hardy varieties <i>P. obconica grandiflora</i> +and <i>P. malacoides</i> may be sown any time from February to July, the +earliest of which will commence flowering in the succeeding autumn and +winter. The aim should be to keep the plants as hardy as possible, +giving them air whenever conditions are favourable.</p> + +<p><b>Ranunculus.</b>—Although it is not usual to grow this flower from seed, +it is both easy and interesting to do so. Sow in boxes containing from +four to six inches of soil, and as there need be no transplanting, each +seed should be put in separately, about an inch and a half apart. A cool +greenhouse or frame will supply the requisite conditions for growing the +seedlings. When the foliage has died down, sift out the roots, and store +in dry peat or cocoa-nut fibre for the winter.</p> + +<p>To secure an immediate display of Ranunculuses it is necessary to plant +mature roots. The soil in which they especially thrive is an adhesive +loam or clay. This happens to be unfavourable to their safety in the +winter, and therefore it is wise to defer planting in such soils until +this month. A very simple procedure will suffice to <a name="Page_371" id="Page_371"></a>produce handsome, +richly coloured flowers. If possible, choose for the bed a heavy soil in +an open situation, and dress it liberally with decayed manure. Give the +land a deep digging, and lay it up rough, that it may be benefited by +frosts. In January and February fork it lightly over several times, with +the double purpose of making it mellow and of enabling birds to clear it +of vermin. Traps made of hollowed Potatoes will also assist the latter +object. Not later than the third week of February the roots should be +planted in drills drawn six inches apart and two inches deep. Put them +at intervals of four inches in the rows, with the claws downwards, and +cover with fine soil. Keep the bed free from weeds, and give abundant +supplies of water in dry weather. When the foliage is dead, lift the +roots and store for the next season.</p> + +<p>The Turban Ranunculus is less delicate than the named varieties, and +there need be less hesitation about autumn planting.</p> + +<p><b>Ricinus.</b>—The Castor-oil Plant is largely cultivated for its striking +ornamental foliage, and under generous treatment it will attain from +four to six feet in height. It is a half-hardy annual, and should be +grown in the same manner as Nicotiana.</p> + +<p><b>Salpiglossis</b> merits its increasing popularity. A sowing at the end of +this month or the beginning of March will insure plants in condition for +the open ground in May. A moderate hot-bed is requisite now, but in +April the seed may be sown on prepared borders for a summer display of +the veined and pencilled flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Solanum</b>.—The varieties which are grown for winter decoration are much +prized when laden with their bright-coloured berries. Sow the several +kinds in heat, and transfer the seedlings straight to single pots filled +with very rich soil.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Intermediate</b>.—To form a succession to the Summer-flowering, or +Ten-week, varieties in July and August, seed of the Intermediate Stocks +should be sown in gentle heat during February or March. The treatment +accorded to Ten-week Stocks, described on page 379, will suit the +Intermediate varieties also.</p> + +<p><b>Sweet Peas</b> have in recent years become such an important ornament to +the garden and the flowers are so highly prized for household use that +no effort is spared to insure a long-continued display. With this object +in view seeds are sown in pots and the seedlings transplanted, as soon +as weather permits, to the ground specially prepared in the preceding +autumn. Those who did not sow in September should do so in the latter +part of January <a name="Page_372" id="Page_372"></a>or during February. A forcing temperature is injurious, +and the plants thrive best when given practically hardy treatment.</p> + +<p><b>Vallota purpurea.</b>—This handsome bulbous plant is not quite hardy, but +in several of the Southern counties it may be grown in the open ground, +with only the shelter of dry litter or a mat. In pots the bulbs should +not be allowed to go dry through the winter; and when growth commences +in spring, water must be given freely. Good loam suits the Vallota, and +it is desirable to avoid re-potting until the flowering period has +passed: when a transfer becomes necessary, disturb the roots as little +as possible.</p> + +<p><b>Verbena,</b> if not sown last month, should be got in promptly, for it is +important not to hurry the growth of this plant by excessive heat.</p> + +<p><b>Wigandia</b> is a half-hardy perennial, grown exclusively for its noble +tropical foliage. If started now, it will attain a large size as an +annual. It is impossible to grow this plant too well. A lavish +employment of manure and water will secure stately specimens. The +instructions given for Ricinus apply equally to the Wigandia.</p> + + +<p><b>MARCH</b></p> + +<p>The first duty is to ascertain that there are no arrears to make good or +failures-to replace. If any sowing has gone wrong, do not waste time by +repining over it, but sow again. Growing flowers under artificial +conditions is a prolonged struggle with Nature, in which the most +experienced and skilful gardener need not be ashamed of an occasional +failure. But the cause of the failure should, if possible, be +ascertained for future guidance. We say if possible, because the secret +cannot always be discovered. There may have been every apparent +condition of success, and yet, for some inexplicable reason, there has +been disappointment. As a rule, however, the cause will be found by the +man who is determined to make every failure the stepping-stone to future +success.</p> + +<p>The lengthening days and the growing power of the sun demand increased +vigilance and activity. Danger of frost remains, and, worse still, there +may come the withering influence of the north-east wind, which scorches +delicate seedlings as with a breath of fire.</p> + +<p><b>Annuals, Hardy,</b> may be sown in the open from February to May. Perhaps +a list of the principal flowers comprised under this denomination may +aid the memory. Several of the following <a name="Page_373" id="Page_373"></a>are not strictly hardy, but +for practical ends they may be so regarded.</p> + +<p> +Abronia<br /> +Acroclinium<br /> +*Alyssum<br /> +*Asperula<br /> +Bartonia<br /> +*Cacalia<br /> +Calandrinia<br /> +Calendula<br /> +Candytuft<br /> +Centranthus<br /> +Chrysanthemum,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">annual</span><br /> +Clarkia<br /> +Collinsia<br /> +Collomia<br /> +Convolvulus minor<br /> +Coreopsis<br /> +Cornflower<br /> +Dimorphotheca<br /> +Erysimum<br /> +Eschscholtzia<br /> +Eutoca<br /> +Gilia<br /> +Godetia<br /> +*Gypsophila<br /> +Hawkweed<br /> +Helichrysum<br /> +Hibiscus<br /> +Jacobea<br /> +Kaulfussia<br /> +*Larkspur<br /> +*Lavatera<br /> +Layia<br /> +*Leptosiphon<br /> +Leptosyne<br /> +Limnanthes<br /> +Linaria<br /> +Linum<br /> +Love-lies-bleeding<br /> +*Lupinus<br /> +Malope<br /> +Marigold<br /> +*Mathiola<br /> +*Mignonette<br /> +Nasturtium<br /> +Nemophila<br /> +Nigella<br /> +Phacelia<br /> +Platystemon<br /> +*Poppy<br /> +Prince’s Feather<br /> +Rudbeckia<br /> +Salpiglossis<br /> +Sanvitalia<br /> +Saponaria<br /> +Silene<br /> +Sunflower<br /> +Swan River Daisy<br /> +Sweet Pea<br /> +Sweet Sultan<br /> +Venus’ Looking-glass<br /> +Venus’ Navel-wort<br /> +*Virginian Stock<br /> +Viscaria<br /> +Whitlavia<br /> +Xeranthemum<br /> +</p> + +<p>Hardy annuals are worth better treatment than they sometimes receive. +They may be sown at once where they are intended to bloom, and for the +varieties preceded by an asterisk this method is a necessity, because +they do not well bear transplanting. In every case sow thinly, and +afterwards thin boldly, for many of the flowers named will occupy a +diameter of one or even two feet if the soil is in a condition to do +them justice. Give the ground a deep digging and incorporate plenty of +manure, except where Nasturtium is to be sown. A rather poor soil is +necessary for this annual, or the flowers will be hidden by excessive +foliage.</p> + +<p><b>Abutilon.</b>—There is yet time to raise plants for blooming in the +current year. The seedlings must be potted on regularly to render them +robust and free-flowering.</p> + +<p><b>Aster.</b>—Only those who are closely acquainted with the modern +development of this handsome flower can have any conception of its +varied forms and colours. There are dwarf, medium, and tall <a name="Page_374" id="Page_374"></a>varieties +in almost endless diversity, and nearly all of them will be a credit to +any garden if well grown. Too often, however, flowers are seen which are +a mere caricature of what Asters may become in the hands of men who +understand their requirements. To grow them to perfection the ground +should be trenched in the previous autumn, where the soil is deep enough +to justify the operation. If not, the digging must be deep, and plenty +of decayed manure should be worked in. Leave the ground roughly exposed +to the disintegrating effects of winter frosts; and in spring it should +be lightly forked over once or twice to produce a friable condition, in +which the roots will ramify freely and go down to the buried manure for +stimulating food. If by such means stiff land can be made mellow, it +will grow Asters of magnificent size and colour.</p> + +<p>In sowing it is not wise to rely on a single effort. We advise at least +two sowings; and three are better, even if only a few plants are wanted. +This diminishes the risk of failure and prolongs the flowering season. +Prepare a compost of leaf-mould and loam, mixed with sharp sand to +insure drainage. Towards the end of the month sow in pots or in +seed-pans on an even surface; and we lay stress on a thin sowing, to +avoid the danger of the seedlings damping off. Barely cover the seed +with finely sifted soil, and place sheets of glass on the pans or pots +to check rapid evaporation. If water must be given, immerse the pots for +a sufficient time, instead of using the water-can. A cool greenhouse, +vinery, or a half-spent hotbed is a good position for the pans, and a +range of temperature from 55° to 65° should be regarded as the outside +limits of variation.</p> + +<p><b>Auricula.</b>—Seed may still be sown; indeed, April will not be too late. +Partially submerging the pans when water is needed saves many seeds from +being washed out and wasted.</p> + +<p><b>Balsam.</b>—- Although this flower comes from a tropical climate, it is +not very tender; a gentle hot-bed is quite sufficient to bring up the +seed. Two or three sowings are advisable to secure a succession of +bloom, and for the first of them the middle of this month is the proper +time. It is important that the soil for this plant should be light, +rich, and very sweet. When the seedlings show their first rough leaves, +lose no time in pricking them off, and they should afterwards be potted +early enough to promote a dwarf habit.</p> + +<p><b>Calceolaria.</b>—- Plants from last year’s sowing will begin to move, and +should be shifted into their final pots before the buds show. The +eight-inch size ought to contain very fine specimens. The compost for +them should be prepared with care several days before use. Put <a name="Page_375" id="Page_375"></a>the +plants in firmly, and place them in a light airy greenhouse. As soon as +the pots are filled with roots an occasional dose of manure water will +be beneficial until the flowers begin to show colour, when pure soft +water alone will be required. Tie out the plants some time before the +buds attain full size.</p> + +<p><b>Clerodendron fallax.</b>—A charming stove plant, producing large heads of +bright scarlet flowers suitable for greenhouse decoration. From seed +sown in March or April there should be a show of bloom in August or +September following.</p> + +<p><b>Coleus</b> is strictly a stove perennial. But our short winter days do not +maintain a rich colour, and it will in almost every instance give more +satisfaction if treated as an annual, enjoying the beautiful and varied +foliage during summer and autumn, and consigning the plants to the +waste-heap as wintry days draw near. We do not advise the sowing of seed +earlier than March, because a considerable amount of daylight is +necessary to the development of rich tints and diversified markings in +the foliage. The essentials for raising plants from seed are good +drainage, a temperature which does not fall below 65°, the careful +employment of water, and the early transfer of the seedlings. The green +plants may be thrown away immediately they reveal their character, but +those which show delicate tints in the small leaves will abundantly +compensate for all the care bestowed upon them.</p> + +<p><b>Dianthus.</b>—Put the seedlings into single pots, and harden in readiness +for transplanting to the open in May or June.</p> + +<p><b>Dimorphotheca.</b>—This valuable half-hardy annual, a native of South +Africa, known also as the Star of the Veldt, may be flowered within six +weeks from time of sowing. Plants may be raised by starting seed this +month or in April, in pans of light soil given the protection of a +frame. Transplant in May, in well-drained soil, choosing a warm sunny +spot. In the open, seed may safely be sown in May or June. Plants potted +on from the early sowing will make a most attractive show in the +conservatory, or seed may be sown in pots and the seedlings thinned to +three or four in each.</p> + +<p><b>Gaillardia.</b>—To secure a supply of plants for the open ground in May, +seed of all the varieties may be sown during this month. Prick off early +and keep them dwarf.</p> + +<p><b>Geum.</b>—From seed sown this month or in April, the popular double +variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, may be brought into flower in the first year. +The seedlings should be pricked off into boxes and gradually hardened +for putting out in May or June.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376"></a><b>Gladiolus</b>.—This is one of the most stately and beautiful flowers +grown in our gardens. Some of the varieties are strikingly brilliant; +others are exceedingly delicate in tint and refined in their markings. +The culture may be of the most primitive kind, or it may become one of +the fine arts of horticulture. Simply put into the ground and left to +fight their own battle, the corms sometimes produce splendid spikes of +flower, although not so imposing as better culture might have made them. +Under skilful care the flowers are magnificent in size and colour.</p> + +<p>The main work of preparing the ground should be done in autumn. Now it +is only necessary to give the soil two or three light forkings, and +those not deep enough to bring the buried manure to the surface. This +frequent stirring is beneficial in itself, and it promotes the +destruction of the foes which prey upon Gladiolus roots. Small Potatoes, +roughly hollowed out, or pieces of Carrot, may be used as traps for +wireworm and other vermin. Planting is sometimes done at the end of this +month, but as a rule it is better to wait until the beginning of April.</p> + +<p><b>Gloxinia</b>.—There is yet time to secure a brilliant summer display from +seed. Bulbs which have been stored through the winter need attention. +Where these flowers are wanted early, and there is plenty of room, a +commencement will probably be made in February; but in the greater +number of gardens March is soon enough. Assuming the bulbs to be sound, +they should be potted in a mixture of loam, peat, and sand. Those which +start first must be re-potted for a forward supply. While growing, +manure water twice a week will help to produce fine flowers, intense in +colour; but when the flowers open, the liquid manure must be abandoned, +and pure soft water be given as often as necessary, for Gloxinias cannot +endure drought. Shading is an important matter from the commencement, +and particularly during the flowering period.</p> + +<p><b>Hollyhock</b> seedlings will be ready for putting into thumb pots. +Directly they are established, begin to prepare them for planting out in +May.</p> + +<p><b>Impatiens</b>.—Some growers find a little difficulty in raising this +elegant flower from seed. Probably it arises from sowing too early. +Where there is a command of sufficient heat no trouble should be +experienced in March, and it is essential to sow very thinly for two +reasons. Crowded seedlings are liable to damp off, particularly in dull, +moist weather, and they are so fragile that it is well-nigh <a name="Page_377" id="Page_377"></a>impossible +to transfer them from the seed-pots until they are about an inch high.</p> + +<p><b>Lavatera</b>.—As the Mallows do not transplant well it is desirable to +sow in the flowering positions. Good ground is necessary to insure fine +specimens, and ample space must be allowed for the plants to develop. +The seed may be sown from March to May.</p> + +<p><b>Lobelia</b>.—The perennial varieties make splendid border plants, and are +easily grown from seed. Sow during February or March, in moderate heat, +and in due time transfer to a deep rich loam. Their dark metallic +foliage and brilliant flowers are most conspicuous, and admirably fit +them for the back row of a ribbon border, or for groups in the mixed +border.</p> + +<p><b>Lupinus</b>.—Seed of the annual varieties may be put in from March to +May, and it is necessary to sow where required for flowering, as +transplanting is not satisfactory. The perennial Lupines may also be +flowered as annuals by sowing seed in March or April.</p> + +<p><b>Marigold</b>.—Both the African and French varieties are of importance +late in the season, for they continue to bloom until cut down by frost. +The former reaches the height of from eighteen to thirty inches, and the +colour is limited to yellow in several shades, from pale lemon to deep +orange. The latter is more varied in habit as well as in colour, and the +Miniatures make excellent bedding plants. In hot dry seasons Marigolds +entirely eclipse Calceolarias, because they can well endure drought and +a short supply of food; whereas the Shrubby Calceolaria does not thrive +under such conditions. All the varieties of Tagetes may be sown now on a +moderate heat, and they should be pricked off into pans or boxes in +readiness for transferring to the open ground in May.</p> + +<p><b>Marvel of Peru</b>.—The treatment prescribed for Balsam will suit this +plant. In the first year it will grow to a considerable size, but will +not, as a rule, attain to its full dimensions until the second season. +It is a half-hardy perennial, and when saved through the winter will +need protection from frost.</p> + +<p><b>Mignonette</b> finds a welcome in every English garden; and to add to its +attractiveness there are now yellow, red, and white varieties, in +addition to such forms as dwarf, pyramidal, and spiral. Mignonette can +be grown without the least difficulty; indeed, it will reproduce itself +from seed shed in the previous year. Nevertheless, it is true that in +the majority of gardens justice is seldom done to this flower, for the +simple reason that there is not sufficient faith in its capabilities. +Each plant will cover a space of at least one foot, and we have <a name="Page_378" id="Page_378"></a>seen +specimens a yard across, bristling with flower-spikes which are +delightfully fragrant. The soil for it should be made firm, just as an +Onion bed is treated. Except for this one point, the culture of a hardy +annual is all that is necessary. Mignonette does not transplant +successfully, but otherwise it is very accommodating. The seedlings are +frequently taken off by fly as fast as they appear above ground. Soot +and wood-ashes applied in good time are the best preventives; but a +second sowing may be necessary, and it should be made immediately the +loss is discovered.</p> + +<p><b>Nemesia</b>.—For the earliest display of this beautiful annual the first +sowing should be made in pots under glass during this month. In the open +border seed may be sown in both May and June. Occasionally a little +difficulty is experienced in raising plants under artificial conditions, +but those who sow in beds or borders from the same packet of seed during +the months named, will find that the culture is quite easy.</p> + +<p><b>Pentstemon</b>.—The treatment recommended for the perennial section of +Lobelias will exactly suit this flower.</p> + +<p><b>Phlox Drummondii</b>.—There is still time to sow. Established seedlings +should be gradually hardened by free access of air, until they are ready +for the open ground.</p> + +<p><b>Phlox, Perennial</b>, may be raised from seed sown in shallow boxes in the +early part of this month, and placed in moderate heat. Transplant the +seedlings when ready, gradually harden, and plant out in rich soil one +foot apart, or put them into vacant places in the shrubbery. Aid with +water if necessary.</p> + +<p><b>Poppy</b>.—The annual varieties do not well bear transplanting, +especially from light soils, and therefore, as a rule, it is advisable +to sow where the plants are intended to bloom. They make conspicuous +lines and clumps among shrubs; and this is especially the case with the +huge flowers of the double class. Sow in March and April, and commence +thinning the seedlings while they are small. They should ultimately be +left about one foot apart. The perennial Poppies may also be flowered as +annuals if sown in this month and transferred to open quarters when +large enough.</p> + +<p><b>Schizanthus</b>.—Elegant half-hardy annuals, which can be grown as +specimens for the conservatory, or in quantity for open borders. Sow in +gentle heat, and pot on the seedlings.</p> + +<p><b>Solanum</b>.—For a succession of the varieties which are grown for their +berries, sow again in heat, and make a sowing of the ornamental-foliaged +kinds for sub-tropical gardening. The latter are <a name="Page_379" id="Page_379"></a>rather more tender, +and need a somewhat higher temperature than the former. They must all +have liberal culture to bring out their fine qualities.</p> + +<p><b>Statice</b>.—The hardy annual varieties of Sea Lavender may be sown +during March or April, and the best results are obtained by starting the +seed in pans and planting out when the seedlings are far enough advanced +in size. Seed of the hardy perennial kinds should be sown from April to +July on light soil, and transplanted later on to flowering quarters.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Ten-week.</b>—The increasing favour shown for Annual Stocks is in +part no doubt attributable to the growing appreciation manifested for +all kinds of flowers. But it is traceable in a still greater measure to +the augmented purity, brilliance, and variety in colour of modern +Ten-week Stocks, as well as to the enhanced reliability of seed in +producing double flowers. We need say nothing of its perfume, for this +is a quality which the most unobservant can scarcely fail to notice.</p> + +<p>Although the Ten-week Stock is half-hardy, it must not receive the +treatment of a tender annual; indeed, one of the most important points +in growing it is to avoid any excess of artificial heat. A little +assistance at the commencement it must have; but the aim should be to +impart a hardy constitution from the moment the seedlings appear. We are +not advocating reckless exposure to chill blasts, but the necessity of +giving air freely whenever there may be a fair opportunity. The best of +seed-beds can be made in pans or shallow boxes filled with sweet, sandy +soil. In these sow thinly, so that the young plants may have abundant +room. Even a little apparent wastefulness of space will be repaid by +stout and vigorous growth. From the middle to the end of the month is a +suitable time for sowing.</p> + +<p><b>Sweet Pea</b>.—This flower is so much in demand for decorative purposes +that a prolonged display should be secured by successive sowings, +commencing in this month and continuing until May, or even to June, +where the soil and circumstances are specially favourable. The value of +groups of Sweet Peas in borders and for enlivening shrubberies is now +thoroughly appreciated, and it is not uncommon to see fine clumps among +dwarf fruit trees.</p> + +<p><b>Tigridia, or Ferraria</b>.—Finer flowers are generally obtained from the +open border than from pots, and the bulbs should be planted out three or +four inches deep in March or April. Sandy loam and peat suit them +admirably. On a dry border these bulbs <a name="Page_380" id="Page_380"></a>will pass the winter safely, but +in wet land it will be perilous to leave them out.</p> + +<p><b>Verbena.</b>—It is possible to raise Verbenas in the open from seed sown +in drills on light soil, but the attempt is a little hazardous. There +is, however, no danger at all in sowing in pans placed in a cool frame. +The plants should be potted immediately they are large enough to handle. +The flowering from this sowing will be rather late, but not too late for +a good show of bloom.</p> + +<p><b>Zinnia.</b>—The double varieties are now grown almost to the exclusion of +single flowers, and the former are so incomparably superior, that they +are judged by the severe rules of the florist. With this plant it is +useless to start too early. Towards the end of the month a commencement +will be made by experienced growers, but the comparative novice will be +wise to wait until the beginning of April. Sow in pots filled with a +compost of leaf-mould, loam, and sand, and be quite sure there is +effectual drainage. Plunge the pots in a temperature of about 60°.</p> + + +<p><b>APRIL</b></p> + +<p>Many half-hardy flowers, such as Acroclinium, <i>Convolvulus major</i>, +<i>Linum rubrum</i>, Nemesia, Salpiglossis, Schizanthus, and others, which at +an earlier period can only be sown with safety under protection, may now +be consigned to the open ground without the least misgiving. A knowledge +of this fact is of immense value to owners of gardens that are destitute +of glass, for it enables them to grow a large number of flowers which +would otherwise be impracticable. Of course, the flowering will be a +little later than from plants raised earlier in heat.</p> + +<p><b>Annuals, Hardy,</b> which were not sown in March should be got in during +this month and in May. A large number of beautiful subjects are +available for the purpose, the most popular of which are named on page +373.</p> + +<p><b>Aster.</b>—When the seedlings attain the third leaf, they should be +pricked off round the edges of 60-sized pots; later on put them singly +into small pots, from which the transfer to the open ground will not +cause a perceptible check. As the plants do not thrive in a close +atmosphere, it is important to give air freely on every suitable +occasion, or they cannot be maintained in a healthy growing condition. A +second sowing should be made about the middle of the <a name="Page_381" id="Page_381"></a>month, following +the routine already advised. A sowing in drills on a carefully prepared +bed in the open ground is also desirable, and in some seasons it may +produce the most valuable plants of the year. Asters come so true from +seed that the bed may be arranged in any desired pattern. Thin the +plants early, and continue the process until they are far enough apart +for flowering. A distance of eight inches is sufficient for the +miniatures, ten inches for the dwarfs, and twelve or fifteen inches for +the tall varieties.</p> + +<p><b>Balsam</b>.—About the middle of this month will be the time for a second +sowing, and the seed may be raised in a frame without artificial heat.</p> + +<p><b>Canterbury Bell</b>.—Sow in good soil from April to July and transplant +when ready. Under generous treatment these hardy biennials make a +beautiful display in borders and the pure colours show with striking +effect against the dark foliage of shrubs.</p> + +<p><b>Carnation</b>.—Any time from now until August will be suitable for +sowing, and if the seed has been saved from a first-class strain, a good +proportion of very fine flowers will be produced in the following year. +For these plants florists have always considered it important that the +potting soil should be prepared months before use, and there are good +reasons for the practice. If this is impossible, see that the compost is +sweet, friable, and, above all, free from that terrible scourge of +Carnations, the wireworm. Even sifting will not rid the soil of its +presence with certainty, but by spreading thin layers of the mould +evenly upon a hard, level floor, and passing a heavy roller over it east +and west, then north and south, the wireworm will be disposed of. Or +dressing the soil with Vaporite two or three weeks in advance of potting +will often prove effectual. Turfy loam three parts, leaf-mould one part, +decayed cow-manure one part, with an addition of sharp sand, make a +first-class compost. Sow in well-drained 48-sized pots, cover the seed +very lightly, and place in a frame. Transplant the seedlings immediately +they can be handled, when a cool, shaded pit will keep them in hard +condition. After six or eight leaves are formed it will be time to plant +them out. In the following spring the usual routine of staking and tying +must be followed.</p> + +<p><b>Chrysanthemum leucanthemum</b> (Marguerite, or Ox-eye Daisy).—Seed of +these well-known perennial varieties may be sown any time from April to +July. There are several greatly improved forms of this popular flower +which may now be had in bloom from May until early autumn. Start the +seedlings on a bed of light soil, <a name="Page_382" id="Page_382"></a>and when large enough transplant them +to positions for flowering in the following year.</p> + +<p><b>Cyclamen</b>.—The bulbs which have been flowering in pots through the +winter are now approaching their period of rest, and they must not be +neglected if they are to make a satisfactory display next season. Water +should be gradually diminished until the foliage dies off, and then the +corms will require shade, or they will crack. Dry treatment generally +results in an attack of thrips, and each root must be painted with some +good insecticide to destroy the pest. Cyclamen should never be allowed +to become actually dust-dry; but if the pots can be plunged in a shaded +moist pit, watering will rarely be necessary. In June the pots may be +buried to the rim in a shady spot until August, when it will be time to +re-pot and start the bulbs into growth. The chief enemies of Cyclamen +are aphis and thrips. Fumigation will settle the former; for the latter, +dip the plants in a solution of tobacco-water and soft soap.</p> + +<p><b>Dahlia</b>, seedlings must have plenty of water, and be kept free from +aphis while in pots. Instead of taking out the leading shoot, as is +often done, give it the support of a neat stick. The plants should also +be potted on as growth demands, the important point being to maintain +steady progress without a check until they can be planted out. At the +same time they must be hardened in readiness for removal to the open +ground; and if the work is carried on with judgment, the plants will be +dwarf, and possess a robust constitution capable of producing a +brilliant display of flowers until frost appears.</p> + +<p><b>Gladiolus</b>.—Assuming that the beds have been properly prepared, we +have now only to consider the question of planting, and no better time +can be chosen than the beginning of April. Some eminent growers are at +the trouble of taking out the soil with a trowel for each bulb. In the +opening, a bed of sand and wood-ashes or powdered charcoal is made, on +which the root is placed. Others lay them in deep drills, partly filled +with a similar light mixture. Whichever method is adopted, the crown of +the corm should be left about four inches beneath the surface. The +distance between them may vary from twelve to eighteen inches, and the +greater space is a distinct advantage when attending to the plants +subsequently. The same rules apply to the planting of clumps.</p> + +<p><b>Kochia trichophylla</b>.—Sow seed where the plants are to stand, or in a +prepared bed from which they can be transferred to make clumps, lines, +or single specimens where the attractive foliage will be most effective.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383"></a><b>Lobelia</b>.—Early in the month transfer the seedlings to pans or boxes, +but the latter are preferable. Not a single flower should be allowed to +show until the plants are established in the open ground. Although +Lobelias are very attractive in pots, they cannot be satisfactorily +grown in them, with the exception of the <i>ramosa</i> varieties. But the +object is easily attained by potting plants from a reserve bed after +they have developed into good tufts. From a stiff soil they can be +lifted and potted with facility; and a light soil will cause no +difficulty if the bed be soaked a short time in advance. After potting, +the plants will give no trouble, except to supply them with water.</p> + +<p><b>Marigolds</b> can be raised in a cold frame, and towards the end of the +month there will be no risk in sowing in the open ground. The plants +thrive in a sunny position, even in scorching seasons.</p> + +<p><b>Marvel of Peru</b>.—If not sown last month, there is no time to lose; and +with a little care seed can now be germinated without artificial heat. +When the plants come to be transferred to the open, put them, if +possible, in sandy loam, exposed to full sunshine.</p> + +<p><b>Mignonette</b>.—Successional sowings may be made up to the end of June. +Give each plant plenty of room. By removing the seed-pods as fast as +they are formed flowering is greatly prolonged.</p> + +<p><b>Nasturtium</b>.—Both dwarf and tall varieties are usually treated as +hardy annuals, with the exception of the date of sowing. None of the +Nasturtiums are quite hardy, and if sown in March the plants are liable +to destruction by late frosts. It is therefore usual to sow in April or +May, according to the district, and the growth is so rapid that the +plants are full of bloom before the summer has far advanced. Sow on poor +soil always.</p> + +<p>The <i>Tropæolum canariense</i> (Canary Creeper) may be raised in pans from a +March sowing for planting out in May, or seed can be sown in the open +during April.</p> + +<p><b>Petunia</b>.—- Plants from the first sowing will be ready for small pots, +and they must be kept going until the 48-or 32-size is reached. All +Petunias rebel if root-bound, and the double varieties are especially +impatient in this respect. After each transfer give them a sheltered, +shady position and attention with water until they start again. Good +drainage and careful ventilation are essential, or the foliage will lose +colour. Seedlings intended for beds may be transferred direct from the +seed-pans into 60-sized pots.</p> + +<p><b>Picotee and Pink</b>.—See the culture prescribed for Carnation.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384"></a><b>Ricinus</b>.—At quite the end of the month or the beginning of May, seed +put into the open ground will produce splendid specimens if treated with +a lavish hand. Take out the soil for a depth of eighteen inches or two +feet, and fill the space to within three inches of the surface with a +mixture of rich soil and well-decayed manure. Upon each bed thus made +place three Ricinus beans in a triangle, and when they are up, thin to +one plant at each station, and this, of course, the strongest. This mode +of growing Ricinus will astonish those who have been accustomed to allow +the plant to struggle through existence in the ordinary soil of a garden +border. Plentiful supplies of water must be given in dry weather, and +stakes will be necessary to save the specimens from injury by wind. It +is too early for putting out those raised in heat.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Ten-week.</b>—Where the requisite quantity of seed has not been +sown, it must be done promptly. If there happens to be a cold frame on a +spent hot-bed to spare, it will exactly suit the seedlings when they are +ready for transferring. Make the surface fresh by adding a little rich +soil, and put the plants in rows three or four inches apart, allowing +three inches between them in the rows. In seed-pans, however, space +cannot be afforded in this liberal fashion, but they will make a full +return for rather more than the usual spacing. To maintain a dwarf +habit, it is imperative that the plants should be kept near the glass.</p> + +<p>Where there are no facilities for growing Stocks in the manner described +seed may be sown at the end of the month in the open ground, and with a +little care there will be a handsome show of bloom. The seedlings are +subject to the attacks of turnip fly, which is a terrible foe to them in +the seed-leaf stage; in fact, the plants are sometimes up and gone +before danger is suspected. A light sprinkling of water, followed +immediately by a dusting of wood-ashes, just as they are coming through, +will save them, but it may be necessary to repeat the operation two or +three times until they are out of peril. A rich and friable seed-bed is +one remedy for the fly, for it promotes rapid growth, which speedily +places the plant beyond the power of its insect adversary. But if +open-ground culture exposes Stocks to one hazard, it saves them from +another, as mildew does not attack them unless they have been +transplanted. Stocks come so true from seed that it is easy to arrange a +design in any desired colours. Sow in drills from nine to fifteen inches +apart, according to the height of the variety, and cover the seed very +lightly with fine soil. The bed must be protected from birds, and <a name="Page_385" id="Page_385"></a>a +dressing of soot will keep off slugs. Begin to thin the plants early, +but do not forget that some single specimens will have to be taken out +when the flowers show, and that is the time for the final thinning.</p> + +<p><b>Sunflowers</b> do not well bear transplanting, hence the seed should be +sown where the plants are intended to flower. During its brief season of +growth, the Sunflower taxes the soil very severely, and to develop its +full proportions decayed manure must be freely employed to a good depth, +and unstinted supplies of water will be necessary in dry weather.</p> + +<p><b>Zinnia</b>.—- The first week of this month is as good a time as any to +sow seed, and the conditions named under March should be followed. When +the seedlings are an inch high, pot them separately, and place in a +close, shaded frame until they are established. Then give air more and +more freely while the plants are being trained to bear full exposure.</p> + + +<p><b>MAY</b></p> + +<p>This is the chief month for bedding, and the crowded state of pits and +houses creates a natural anxiety to push forward the work; yet the +exercise of a little patience may save many a valuable lot of plants +from being injured past recovery. Although the days are long, and +perhaps sunny, the nights are often treacherous, especially in the early +part of the month. The first business is to prepare the plants gradually +for transfer to the open ground by free exposure whenever there is a +favourable opportunity. Take off the lights on genial days, and by +degrees open them at night, until they can be dispensed with altogether. +About the second week of the month it will generally be safe to put the +most hardy subjects on a bed of ashes, under the shelter of a hedge or +wall, before planting them. Begin with Antirrhinum, Dianthus, Phlox +Drummondii, Stock, and Verbena. A little later on, others which are +rather more delicate, as, for instance, Balsam, Begonia, Dahlia, +Petunia, Zinnia, &c., can be treated in the same way, until the great +bulk of them are in final quarters. Sub-tropical plants, such as +Nicotiana, Ricinus, Solanum, and Wigandia, had better be kept under +control till the first or second week of June.</p> + +<p><b>Annuals</b>.—There is still an opportunity of sowing many varieties, and +also to make further sowings of others that are already showing signs of +promise. The practice of insuring a succession of all <a name="Page_386" id="Page_386"></a>flowers much in +demand for vases, of which Sweet Peas are an example, is on the +increase, and deserves to be further extended. Another point is that +many annuals which require heat in earlier months may with confidence be +sown during May in the open ground.</p> + +<p><b>Hardy Biennials and Perennials</b>.—Seed of many favourite biennials and +perennials may be safely sown in the open ground during May, June, and +July, and as a general rule the finest plants for flowering in the +following season are obtained from the earliest sowings. The bed for the +seed should be prepared with care and a friable loam is the best for the +purpose. Immediately the seedlings are large enough to handle, +transplant to small rich nursery beds and shift to flowering positions +in the autumn. A number of these subjects are dealt with individually in +the calendars for the months named, and others which are suitable for +the purpose are:</p> + +<p> +Anchusa italica<br /> +Aster sub-cæruleus<br /> +Aubrietia<br /> +Candytuft (Iberis)<br /> +Cheiranthus Allionii<br /> +Chrysanthemum leucanthemum<br /> +Coreopsis grandiflora<br /> +Cynoglossum<br /> +Digitalis<br /> +Gaillardia<br /> +Galega officinalis<br /> +Gaura Lindheimeri<br /> +Geum<br /> +Gypsophila paniculata<br /> +Heuchera<br /> +Lupinus<br /> +Cenothera<br /> +Poppy, perennial<br /> +Pyrethrum<br /> +Saxifrage<br /> +Thalictrum<br /> +Verbascum<br /> +Viola<br /> +</p> + +<p><b>Antirrhinum</b> is admirably adapted for a dry and sunny position, in +which it will thrive and flower freely.</p> + +<p><b>Balsam</b>.—Towards the middle of the month a final sowing may be made +with safety in the open ground. Former seedlings will need potting on +until they reach the eight-inch size, and at each transfer put the +plants in rather deeper than before; this encourages the growth of roots +from the stems. While increasing the pot-room not a bud will show; but +immediately the roots are checked by the pots, flowering will commence. +The old method of stopping and disbudding not only spoiled the plants, +but robbed them of the finest flowers, which are invariably produced on +the main stem. Since the natural method of growing Balsams has been in +favour it is usual to see grand specimens covered with immense flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Campanula</b>.—The hardy perennial varieties may be sown in the open +during the present month to provide seedlings for transplanting to +flowering positions in autumn. Should there be any good reason for delay +it will not be too late to sow in June or July, <a name="Page_387" id="Page_387"></a>but the finest +specimens are generally produced from May sowings. The best results can +always be obtained by raising the required number annually and +discarding the plants after they have flowered in the following season.</p> + +<p><b>Cineraria.</b>—Those who care to have Cinerarias in bloom during November +and December may do so from a sowing made at the beginning of April, but +it is not usual to start so early. Our own practice is to sow twice, +during the present month and again in June, to insure a succession. From +this month’s sowings we look for our finest plants. The Cineraria is +easy to raise and to grow, but it will by no means take care of itself. +It has so many enemies that unusual vigilance is necessary to flower it +to perfection. It thrives in a compost of turfy loam, with a little +leaf-mould added; but the soil should not be over-rich, or there will be +much foliage and few flowers. Still, as the plant is a rapid grower, it +must not be starved, neither must it suffer for lack of water. Pots or +pans may be employed for the seed; and as the young plants grow freely, +they may go straight to thumb pots without the usual intermediate stage +of pricking off.</p> + +<p><b>Coleus</b> should be finally shifted into 48-sized pots. If signs of +decline become manifest, weak liquid manure water given occasionally +will revive the plants and intensify their colours. During the summer +any ordinary greenhouse or conservatory will suit them, provided they +are shaded from fierce sunshine.</p> + +<p><b>Cyclamen.</b>—The strongest seedlings should now be ready for 60-sized +pots. Abundant but judicious ventilation, plenty of water, and freedom +from aphis, are the conditions to be secured.</p> + +<p><b>Dahlia.</b>—Make the ground on which this flower is to be planted +thoroughly rich. It is a rapid grower, and cannot attain to fine +proportions on a poor soil. If the plants are carefully prepared for the +change by free exposure on genial days, and also during warm nights, +they will scarcely feel the removal. When first put out, dress the +surrounding soil with soot to prevent injury by slugs, which show a +decided partiality for newly planted Dahlias. Give water freely when +requisite, and in staking the plants take care that the ties do not cut +the branches. These ties will require attention occasionally during the +summer and autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Delphinium.</b>—Sow the perennial varieties on a prepared bed. Thin +early, without removing all the weaker seedlings, and when sufficiently +advanced to bear removal, transfer to borders where the plants are to +flower.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388"></a><b>Hollyhocks</b> may be put into the borders when the weather is quite +warm. Wait until the end of the month, or even the beginning of June, +rather than have them nipped by an untimely frost. Like the Dahlia this +plant must have unstinted supplies of water and abundance of manure. A +tall stake, firmly fixed, will also be necessary for each plant.</p> + +<p><b>Nicotiana.</b>—Seed may be sown on an open, sunny border, but it is a +waste of seed and labour to put it into poor soil. Prepare the ground +beforehand by deep digging, and by incorporating plenty of manure. If +the near presence of other plants renders this impossible, drive a bar +into the soil and work a good-sized hole. Fill it with rich stuff to +within a few inches of the surface, and finish with fine soil, on which +sow the seed. This method can only be adopted for light land. In the +event of a cutting east wind after the seedlings are up, improvise some +kind of shelter until the danger is past.</p> + +<p><b>Petunias</b> are very sensitive under a frost or cold wind. Therefore be +in no hurry to bed the plants until quite the end of the month or +beginning of June, especially if the weather appears to be at all +threatening. A good mellow soil, free of recent manure, suits them. If +unduly rich, it will strengthen the foliage at the expense of the +flowers, and will also postpone the blooming until late in the season.</p> + +<p><b>Portulaca.</b>—It is useless to sow until the temperature is summerlike. +If necessary, wait until the close of the month, or longer, before +putting in the seed. This flower will endure neither a moist atmosphere +nor a retentive soil. Sow on raised beds of light soil, the more sandy +the better; and in seasons which speedily burn the life out of other +plants, Portulacas will display their beauty, no matter how fiercely the +sun may beat upon them. Water will occasionally be necessary, but it +should never be given until there is obvious need for it. Portulacas are +easily grown in pots or window-boxes, and they will bloom profusely +where many other flowers only wither and die.</p> + +<p><b>Primula.</b>—Almost every season witnesses the advent of some novelty in +this flower, either in colour or in form. And the plant is now worth +growing for the beauty and diversity of its foliage alone. The flowers +range from pure white through all shades of tender rose up to a deep, +rich crimson. After years of earnest effort, two beautiful blue flowers +have been obtained. There are also several elegant double strains, and +these possess a special value for bouquets, <a name="Page_389" id="Page_389"></a>because of their enduring +quality. All the varieties, including the popular Star Primulas, can be +grown with ease in any soil which is fairly rich and friable. Equal +parts of leaf-mould and loam, with a little sand, will suit them to +perfection. Fill the pots firmly, taking precautions to insure effective +drainage. A thin layer of silver sand sifted over the soil will aid an +even sowing by showing up the seed. As a finish, shake over just enough +fine soil to hide the sand. Thin sowing is important, because the most +reliable new seed is almost certain to germinate at intervals, and the +plants which come first can then be lifted without imperilling the +remainder. Prick off as fast as ready round the edges of small pots, and +shade until established. Then give air more and more freely.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Ten-week.</b>—The preparation of the soil is the first business, +and whether the Stocks are intended to be grown in small groups or alone +in beds, the treatment should be the same in either case. With light +land there is no difficulty; it is only needful to dig it well, and to +incorporate a sufficient quantity of decayed manure. If disposed to +incur a little extra trouble to give the plants a start, take out some +soil with a trowel, and fill the hole with compost from the potting +shed. This course is indispensable on heavy land; and assuming it to be +rich enough, the quickest and most effectual way is to make drills six +inches deep at the proper distances, and nearly fill them with prepared +soil, in which the Stocks can be planted. For a short time afterwards +provide shelter from the midday sun, but do not keep them covered a +moment longer than is necessary. In planting it must not be forgotten +that an uncertain proportion of single specimens will have to come out. +On this account it is advisable to put them in small groups, and remove +the surplus even if they are double,</p> + +<p><b>Sweet William</b>.—The introduction of several new varieties has created +a fresh interest in this fine old garden favourite. This is one of the +hardy biennials that will not be hustled. On a nicely prepared bed in +the open sow thinly in drills either during this month or up to July. In +due time transplant in rows, affording sufficient space for each +specimen to become stocky, and in autumn transfer to flowering quarters.</p> + +<p><b>Verbena</b>.—Beds for Verbenas should be rich, mellow, and very sweet. A +poor soil not only produces poor flowers, but it materially shortens the +blooming period. Peg the plants down from the outset, and allow them to +cross and recross each other until there is a sheet of glowing colour.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390"></a><b>Wallflower.</b>—This fragrant spring flower is not always grown as well +as it might be. It is often sown too late to become established before +winter sets in. Sow now in drills nine inches apart on friable loam. +Thin to three inches apart, and transplant the thinnings. A little later +repeat the operation, so as to leave the plants at a distance of six +inches in the rows. Assist them with water if necessary.</p> + +<p><b>Zinnia.</b>—A sowing in the open ground about the middle of the month +will provide plants in gardens where there are no means of raising them +artificially at an earlier date. Even those who possess a stock will be +wise to put a final sowing in the open. If possible, choose a sunny +border sloping to the south, and make the soil rich, fine, and rather +firm. Drop seeds in little groups of three or four at each spot, +allowing fifteen or eighteen inches between the groups. Cover lightly, +and eventually thin the plants to one at each station.</p> + + +<p><b>JUNE</b></p> + +<p>The days are now at their longest, and plants in pits and houses should +have the full benefit of it. By opening the lights early, and shading in +good time, the flowering period will be greatly prolonged. Ply the +syringe over plants infested with aphis until they are quite clean. In +some instances, it may even be wise to pinch off young shoots which are +covered with the fly.</p> + +<p>Keep Verbenas, Petunias, and the taller varieties of Phlox Drummondii +pegged down; this furnishes the beds and helps to check evaporation.</p> + +<p>Rain and watering alike tend to harden the ground; and as this condition +does not favour growth, the surface should be frequently broken with the +hoe.</p> + +<p><b>Anemone.</b>—Those who grow this flower from seed should make another +sowing now or in July, even if they have thrifty plants from the +February sowing. By this arrangement the flowering period is prolonged, +and the finer blossoms will probably come from this month’s sowing.</p> + +<p><b>Aquilegia</b> seed will germinate now in the open ground, and the plants +need no protection during winter.</p> + +<p><b>Balsam.</b>—As a rule, it is unwise to put Balsams into beds or borders +before the first week of this month. The plant revels in warmth and +light, and should have an open, sunny position. Its <a name="Page_391" id="Page_391"></a>succulent nature +will indicate the necessity of giving abundant supplies of water. For so +fleshy and apparently fragile a plant, it is astonishing how well it +stands in a strong wind. From good strains the separate colours come so +true that the design of a bed can be accurately arranged. As pot plants +Balsams need no support, provided they are kept dwarf and stout, and +they make admirable decorative subjects. But for indoor use it is easy +to grow them in the open ground, and when well advanced they can be +lifted with care and potted. This procedure offers the advantages of a +choice of colours even from mixed seed and a selection of the most +robust plants.</p> + +<p><b>Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.</b>—This has proved to be one of the most +elegant and refined bedding subjects we possess, and it appears to +become more popular every year. The plant is also freely grown in the +reserve border to produce flowers for cutting. Employ specimens that are +large enough to make a show at once, and select plants of the +short-jointed class for outdoor work. They must have unusually rich +soil.</p> + +<p><b>Calceolaria.</b>—For wealth of bloom, combined with richness and +intensity of colouring, the Herbaceous Calceolaria has no rival among +biennials. A large greenhouse filled with fine specimens in their full +splendour is a sight which will not soon be forgotten. One great source +of interest lies in the annual changes in shades of colour, and the +variations in the markings of individual flowers. From a first-class +strain of seed, high expectation will not be disappointed. Indeed, the +excellence of seedlings is so fully recognised, that there is not the +smallest advantage in propagating the plant by the tedious method of +cuttings. But Calceolarias will not be trifled with. They must have an +even temperature and unremitting attention to maintain a thriving +condition. Fill the seed-pans or pots firmly with a compost which is +both rich and porous; the last point is of great consequence in helping +to secure free drainage. Make the surface perfectly even, and whiten it +with silver sand; this answers the double purpose of revealing the seed +and afterwards of showing when it is sufficiently dusted over with fine +soil. Whether or not this method be adopted, the sowing must be thin and +even, and as the seed is exceedingly fine, the task is rather a delicate +one. Sheets of glass placed over the pans and turned daily will check +rapid evaporation. Place the pans in a moist, shady spot, where the +temperature is constant, and germination will take place in from seven +to nine days, when the glass must be promptly removed. Then comes a +critical <a name="Page_392" id="Page_392"></a>stage, and a little neglect may result in the loss of past +labour, and necessitate a fresh start. Still keep the pans in some +sheltered corner which can be thoroughly shaded from the sun. This +question of shade needs much vigilance. So also does the supply of +water, which must not be administered wholesale, but rather by frequent +gentle sprinklings. On the appearance of the second leaf, promptly prick +off the seedlings in carefully prepared pots, allowing about two inches +between them. They will need dexterous manipulation because of their +small size, but a skilful hand will transfer them without injury, and +perhaps with a little soil adhering to the roots. As all the seedlings +will not be ready at one time, it will probably require about three +operations to clear the seed-pans, and the early removals should be so +made as to avoid injuring the remainder. A pen, with the point firmly +pressed into the holder, makes a small handy implement for the task. +Retain the seedlings in a sheltered position, and continue the attention +as to shade and watering. In about a month the plants will be ready for +thumb pots.</p> + +<p><b>Canna.</b>—In the mixed border, and also in the sub-tropical garden, +Cannas are much valued for the exceeding grace and beauty of their +foliage. They should be put into very rich soil; and, like all other +plants of rapid growth, they will need copious supplies of water in dry +weather. In mild districts and on dry soils the plants may remain out +all the winter, under the protection of a heap of ashes. But, as a rule, +it will be necessary to store them in frames until spring; and they may +be finer in the second than in the first season.</p> + +<p><b>Cineraria.</b>—To insure a succession, and where a sufficient stock is +not already provided, another sowing should be made, following the +method advised last month. The seedlings, when transferred to small +pots, should be put into a close frame, and be sprinkled with water +morning and evening until the roots take hold. At first it is desirable +to keep them fairly warm, but in a fortnight the heat may be gradually +reduced and more air be given until cool treatment is reached. The +plants will need potting on up to November, when they should go into the +final size; and, except for special purposes, 6-1/4- or 7-1/2-inch pots +are large enough. Cinerarias are sought after by every pest which +infests the greenhouse. We need only say that by fumigation, sulphur, or +by syringing with a suitable insecticide, the plants must be kept clean, +or they cannot be healthy.</p> + +<p><b>Daisy, Double.</b>—The finest blooms are obtained from seedlings raised +annually, and the general practice is to sow in the open ground during +this month or July. When large enough transplant to good <a name="Page_393" id="Page_393"></a>ground for +blooming in the following season. The new Giant forms of the Double +Daisy are of superb size, closely resembling finely shaped Asters in +form.</p> + +<p><b>Dianthus.</b>—For a display next summer, sow in drills drawn six inches +apart in an open situation, and cover the seed lightly with fine soil. +Shade the spot until the plants show.</p> + +<p><b>Geranium.</b>—Sometimes a difficulty is experienced in bringing Geranium +seedlings into flower. They possess so much initial vigour that the +production of wood continues to the very end of the season. Plants which +show signs of excessive growth should be put into the border without +removing the pots. This check to the roots will throw the plants into +luxuriant bloom.</p> + +<p><b>Gladioli</b> are very liable to injury by high wind, and stakes should be +put to them in good time. Each plant may have a separate support, and +this is the most perfect treatment; or the stakes may be at intervals, +or at the ends of rows, connected by lengths of strong, soft material, +to which intervening stems can be secured. The work should be done +carefully, and if the flowers are intended for exhibition they must also +be shaded by some means. This may be a cheap or a costly proceeding; but +in whatever manner it is carried out, security is essential, or the +whole bed may be ruined.</p> + +<p><b>Hollyhock.</b>—A sowing in the open ground will produce plants for +wintering in the cold frame; and if generously treated, they will make a +fine show in the following year.</p> + +<p><b>Myosotis.</b>—During this month sow Sutton’s Pot Myosotis and bring +forward in a cold frame for winter decoration, for which purpose this +plant is rapidly increasing in favour. Seed of the hardy varieties may +also be sown now or in July, choosing a shady spot in the open ground. +Transplant when large enough.</p> + +<p><b>Nicotiana.</b>—To expose Tobacco plants before warm weather is +established will give them a check from which they may not recover until +the summer is half over, if they recover at all. Spare frames with +movable lights will prepare them admirably and save labour. The second +week of this month is generally warm enough for the planting. The +seedlings must have a very rich soil, and abundance of water in dry +weather. A heavy mulch of decayed manure will supply them with food and +check evaporation.</p> + +<p><b>Pansy.</b>—From the end of May to the end of July seedlings may be raised +in the open ground. Thin and transplant when ready.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394"></a><b>Polyanthus</b> to be sown from May to July on a shaded border. Thin the +seedlings boldly, and bed the thinnings. Those raised early will flower +next spring, but the later seedlings cannot be depended on for blooming +in the first year.</p> + +<p><b>Portulaca.</b>—The weather may have been too cold and wet for sowing in +May, or seed then sown may have failed; happily, there is yet ample time +for raising this flower, in either beds or pots.</p> + +<p><b>Primrose.</b>—This fine old favourite may be grown from seed in various +tints of yellow and almost any shade of colour from white to deep +crimson; an effective blue has also been achieved. Primroses make +beautiful pot and border flowers. Seed may be sown from May to July. +Seed-pans can be used, or the sowing may be made in drills in the open. +In the latter case, a free dressing of soot must be employed to render +the spot distasteful to slugs. When transplanting, give the plants a +deep retentive loam if possible, and a shady position.</p> + +<p><b>Primula.</b>—To insure a succession of flowers next spring, make another +sowing as advised under May. Seedlings which are ready should be got +into small pots, and afterwards they must be re-potted when necessary; +but never shift them until the pots are full of roots, and always put +them in firmly up to the collar.</p> + +<p><b>Solanum.</b>—The berried varieties may be grown entirely in pots, or they +can be put into beds for the summer, from which they will lift for +potting again just as the handsome berries are turning colour. The +spiny-leaved varieties are valuable for sub-tropical gardening. Small +plants are of little worth, hence they should be put into very rich +soil, with a thick layer of manure on the surface, and have copious +supplies of water to induce free growth.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Spring-flowering.</b>—This valuable section, which includes the +popular Brompton strain, usually comes into bloom in May and June. Seed +is sometimes sown where the plants are to flower, but a certain degree +of risk attends this mode of procedure, and Spring-flowering Stocks are +so valuable that they are worth more careful treatment. Either now or in +July sow in pans, and place them under shelter until the plants are an +inch high; then stand them in the open for a week before planting out.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Winter-flowering.</b>—For their refreshing colours and delightful +perfume Stocks are highly prized during the winter months. To have them +in flower at Christmas, seed of Christmas Pink or<a name="Page_395" id="Page_395"></a> Beauty of Nice should +be sown in June. It is usual to grow three or more plants in a pot, +according to size. At the fall of the year place them in the +conservatory or a cool greenhouse, and give assistance in the form of +weak liquid manure as soon as the buds appear. Other suitable varieties, +of which there are a number, may be sown in July or August for flowering +indoors through the winter and spring months.</p> + +<p><b>Wallflower.</b>—If no seed was sown in May the task ought not to be +neglected this month.</p> + +<p><b>Zinnia.</b>—The first week of June is about the right time to bed +Zinnias, and there are three facts to be borne in mind concerning them. +They do not transplant well, and therefore a showery day should, if +possible, be selected for moving them. In the absence of rain, be +liberal with water. They are very brittle, and should have a position +somewhat sheltered from the full force of the wind; and as they revel in +sunshine, the more roasting the season the finer will be the flowers.</p> + + +<p><b>JULY</b></p> + +<p><b>Antirrhinum.</b>—A sowing in drills during the present month or August +will supply plants for flowering next year. Transfer direct from the +seed-bed to the positions where they are intended to bloom.</p> + +<p><b>Calceolaria.</b>—If more plants are wanted, sow again. Among the +seedlings which we left last month just as they had been pricked off, it +will soon be evident that there is a wide difference between the +strength of the plants. As a rule, the most robust are those in which +yellow largely predominates. These make bright and showy decorative +plants, but the colours that are especially valued by florists will +probably come from the seedlings which are weakly in the early stage. +Hence these should be specially prized, and under skilful management +they may be grown into grand specimens. The thumb pots for Calceolarias +need careful preparation with crocks covered with clean moss or +vegetable fibre, and they must be filled with rich porous compost. +Transfer the plants with extreme care, and place them in a sheltered +part of the greenhouse or in a shaded frame, allowing free access of air +on the leeward side. If aphis has to be dealt with—and it is very +partial to Calceolarias—fumigation is the best remedy. Choose a quiet +evening for the operation; on the <a name="Page_396" id="Page_396"></a>following day carefully water the +plants and shade them from the sun.</p> + +<p><b>Campanula.</b>—The perennial varieties may still be sown, either in pans +or in the open. Give them a good light soil, and do not stint the supply +of water.</p> + +<p><b>Cyclamens</b> which are forward enough should be shifted into 48-sized +pots. Follow up the process until all are re-potted.</p> + +<p><b>Lobelia.</b>—In pots or pans sow seed of the perennial varieties to +provide plants for the borders next year. Pot off singly when ready, and +protect in a cold frame through the winter.</p> + +<p><b>Mimulus</b> sown in the open ground will flower in the following spring. +If possible, make the seed-bed in a moist retentive soil and in a shaded +situation.</p> + +<p><b>Primula.</b>—To force the growth of this plant is to ruin it. The most +satisfactory results are invariably obtained from specimens which have +matured slowly, and have been treated as nearly hardy after the seedling +stage. From this month up to the middle of September it will be quite +safe to expose them freely, day and night, except in inclement weather. +Even in the winter protection is only needed from frost, damp, and keen +winds.</p> + + +<p><b>AUGUST</b></p> + +<p><b>Annuals and Biennials, Hardy.</b>—In the majority of English gardens the +spring display of bulbous flowers is too often followed by a dreary +blank, which is almost unredeemed by a touch of colour, except that +afforded by the late Tulips and a few other flowers which are relatively +unimportant. The brilliance of the Crocuses, Hyacinths, and early Tulips +serves to throw into relief the comparative barrenness which follows. +And the contrast is rendered all the more striking by the cheerful +spring days. It is at this juncture that annuals and biennials from +summer or early autumn sowings light up the garden with welcome masses +and bands of fresh and vivid colouring. They are then so valuable that +it is surprising they are not more commonly grown, especially as the +cost of seed is very trifling. Even the transitory character of some of +them is an element in their favour, for they do not interfere with the +summer bedding arrangements. Such flowers as Pansy and Viola, however, +produce a long-continued show of bloom.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397"></a>The following list contains the varieties which are best adapted for +the purpose:—</p> + +<p> +Alyssum, Sweet<br /> +Antirrhinum<br /> +Asperula azurea setosa<br /> +Calandrinia umbellata<br /> +Calendula officinalis fl. pl.<br /> +Candytuft<br /> +Cheiranthus Allionii<br /> +Chrysanthemum, Morning Star<br /> +Chrysanthemum, Evening Star<br /> +Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum<br /> +Chrysanthemum segetum gr.<br /> +Clarkia<br /> +Collinsia<br /> +Coreopsis<br /> +Cornflower<br /> +Erysimum<br /> +Eschscholtzia<br /> +Gilia tricolor<br /> +Godetia<br /> +Iceland Poppy<br /> +Larkspur, dwarf rocket<br /> +Leptosiphon<br /> +Limnanthes Douglasii<br /> +Linaria, pink<br /> +Nemophila<br /> +Nigella, Miss Jekyll<br /> +Papaver glaucum<br /> +Phacelia tanacetifolia<br /> +Poppy, Shirley<br /> +Saponaria calabrica<br /> +Scabious<br /> +Silene<br /> +Sweet Sultan<br /> +Venus’ Looking-glass, purple<br /> +Virginian Stock<br /> +Viscaria<br /> +Whitlavia<br /> +</p> + +<p>Sow thinly, not later than the middle of the month in cold districts, +but September will be early enough in the Southern counties. Drills are +preferable to broadcasting, because the beds are more easily weeded and +kept in order. Thin the rows early, so that the plants may become stout +and hard before winter overtakes them. Early in the new year +transplanting must be resorted to during open weather if the plants are +to be flowered in heavy soil; but on light, rich land, sow where they +are intended to bloom.</p> + +<p><b>Annuals under Glass.</b>—The flowers available for winter and spring +blooming are naturally few in number compared with those which fill +gardens and conservatories during the summer months. But it is not +generally realised that several favourite outdoor annuals are as +serviceable for flowering under glass in the short days of the year as +they are for growing in the open ground in summer, and they are the more +valuable for winter and spring use as no elaborate system of cultivation +is needed. Any greenhouse or conservatory from which frost can be +excluded will grow these annuals well. Seed should be sown in August or +September, in pots or pans placed in a cool house or frame. When the +seedlings have made some progress, <a name="Page_398" id="Page_398"></a>prick them off into the pots in +which they are wanted to flower, and grow steadily on, bearing in mind +always that the most important point is to keep the plants as hardy as +possible by giving air at every favourable opportunity. The following +varieties are especially suitable for winter and spring flowering under +glass:—Alonsoa; The Star and Dunnettii varieties of Annual +Chrysanthemum; Clarkia elegans; Dimorphotheca; Gypsophila elegans; +Linaria; Nemesia Suttoni; Nicotiana, Miniature White and N. affinis; +Phlox, Purity; Salpiglossis; and Swan River Daisy.</p> + +<p><b>Asters</b> for indoor decoration should now be lifted from beds or borders +and potted. It is worth a little trouble to accomplish the task with the +least possible injury or disturbance to the roots. Light soils should +have a good soaking of water on the previous evening, to prevent the +mould from crumbling away.</p> + +<p><b>Carnation.</b>—Seed may still be sown as advised in April; but to carry +the plants safely through the winter it is necessary to have them strong +before cold weather sets in.</p> + +<p><b>Chionodoxa</b> can be forced with the same ease as Roman Hyacinths. A +48-sized pot will accommodate several bulbs.</p> + +<p><b>Cinerarias</b> are frequently placed in the open during this month and +September, and as it tends to impart a hardy constitution, the practice +is to be commended. A north border under a wall will suit them, but the +proximity of a hedge should be avoided. Before the plants are put out +see that they are quite clean, or it may be necessary to restore them to +the house in order to rid them of some troublesome pest.</p> + +<p><b>Clarkia.</b>—The varieties of the Elegans class make very handsome pot +plants, and to insure the requisite number seed must be sown in +well-drained pots during this month or early in September.</p> + +<p><b>Cyclamen.</b>—Where Cyclamens are extensively grown it is usual to make +the first sowing in August, and many gardeners regard this as the most +important period for securing healthy young seedlings. A common mistake +with beginners is to raise them in too high a temperature. On this and +other points useful suggestions will be found in the article commencing +on page 256.</p> + +<p><b>Dianthus.</b>—Either now or a little later transfer seedlings to +flowering quarters, and if possible put them into sandy loam in a sunny +spot.</p> + +<p><b>Freesia.</b>—Few and simple are the conditions necessary to the +well-being of this beautiful and delicately scented flower. The fine +specimens to be seen occasionally in cottagers’ windows in the Isle <a name="Page_399" id="Page_399"></a>of +Wight attest the ease with which it can be grown in a congenial +atmosphere. The bulbs are exceedingly small in proportion to the +flowers, and the rootlets are so fragile that potting on is to be +avoided. A 48-sized pot will hold five or six bulbs, and the soil should +consist largely of decaying vegetable fibre, such as peat, leaf-mould, +and turfy loam. The pots can be stood in any sheltered position out of +doors, under a covering of cocoa-nut fibre or other light material, +until the foliage begins to grow.</p> + +<p><b>Geranium</b>.—A sowing in August will supply plants for flowering next +summer, and the directions given in February are suitable, save that +heat can now be dispensed with. These late seedlings will need more care +to carry them through the winter than plants raised earlier in the year.</p> + +<p><b>Gerbera</b>.—These charming flowers make admirable subjects for the +greenhouse and conservatory, and an excellent display may also be +obtained outdoors if a sunny well-drained part of the garden be selected +for the plants. August is the best month for sowing seed. Plants +required for indoor blooming should be potted on as may become +necessary. Those for the open ground must be thoroughly hardened off for +planting out in the early summer of the succeeding year.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinths, Italian and Roman</b>.—Obtain the bulbs as early as possible, +and pot them promptly. Place them in any spare corner of the open +ground, where they can be covered with cocoa-nut fibre or leaf-mould +until the roots are formed. A child can grow these flowers; and they +should be largely employed for bouquets and for indoor decoration during +the dark winter days.</p> + +<p><b>Mignonette</b>.—For winter flowering sow in 48-or 32-sized pots, filled +with light rich soil. Put the seed in little groups, thin to three or +five plants in each pot, and give them the benefit of full daylight +close to the glass. When flowering commences do not allow seed to form. +If the spikes which have passed the heyday of perfection are cut off, +the plants will break again and flower a second time.</p> + +<p><b>Narcissi</b>.—The first potting of early varieties is made this month as +soon as the bulbs can be obtained.</p> + +<p><b>Pelargonium</b>.—The remarks under Geranium apply to this flower also.</p> + +<p><b>Picotee</b>.—Follow the instructions given for Carnation.</p> + +<p><b>Schizanthus</b>.—To do full justice to this flower seed should be sown +now for plants to be kept through the winter in any house which is +sufficiently warm to exclude frost.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400"></a><b>Scilla præcox, or sibirica</b>.—The treatment which suits Roman +Hyacinths will answer for this bulb also, when required for flowering +indoors. The two form an admirable harmony in blue and white.</p> + +<p><b>Silene</b>.—All the most useful varieties of Catchfly are hardy against +cold, but not entirely so against damp. They possess a special value for +their sparkling appearance in spring. Sow in light sandy soil, in which +they will pass the winter safely. On a heavy loam the transplanting +system must be resorted to in February or March.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Intermediate</b>.—This section is valuable for indoor decoration +in spring. No artificial heat is necessary to raise the seed; in fact, +it is not wise to employ it. Either in this month or early in September +sow the required number of pots and plunge them in ashes in a frame +until March. Thin the seedlings to three in each pot. Before flowering, +a rich top-dressing will be beneficial; and manure water—weak at first, +but stronger by degrees—will intensify the colours.</p> + +<p><b>Stock, Spring-flowering.</b>—A bed prepared under trees or shrubs will +afford some shelter from winter frost. Make it thoroughly rich, and in +it plant the seedlings. Should the growth be very rapid in September, +the plants will probably become too succulent to endure the stress of +winter. If so, lift them and plant again on the same spot.</p> + +<p><b>Sweet Pea</b>.—The modern culture of this delightful flower includes deep +trenching and the liberal use of manure. Those who intend to sow during +September in the open must get the trenched ground into perfect order +early in the present month. The details are important and are fully +described in the article commencing on page 303.</p> + + +<p><b>SEPTEMBER</b></p> + +<p><b>Agapanthus</b> taxes the soil severely, and must have ample nourishment in +pots. It is also one of the thirstiest bulbs known, but is quite hardy, +and will thrive in the open if planted in a deep rich loam at any time +from September until March.</p> + +<p><b>Alstroemeria</b>.—Although related to the Ixia, this bulb may be trusted +to the open ground in all but the coldest districts of the country. It +is not suitable for pot culture, but in a dry border it may be allowed +to remain undisturbed for years. Plant quite nine inches deep.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401"></a><b>Amaryllis</b>.—The proper time to commence operations with these superb +flowers is during their season of rest, which ranges from September to +March. Pot them in firm loam, enriched with leaf-mould, and containing a +fair proportion of sand. Very little water is required until growth +begins, and then it must be increased with the progress of the plant. +Start them by plunging the pots in a temperature of about 65°, and when +they are coming into bloom, remove to a warm greenhouse or conservatory. +After the flowers have faded, allow the plants to complete their growth, +and then slowly reduce them to a resting condition without permitting +the bulbs at any time to become quite dry.</p> + +<p><b>Anemone</b>.—The tuberous varieties are valuable as pot plants, not only +for their flowers, but also for the distinctive character of the +foliage. The roots may be potted from now up to the end of the year, so +that a succession of flowers can be easily insured. When plunged in a +pit or frame to preserve them from frost, watering is all the attention +they will need, but of this there must be plenty, particularly when the +plants begin to flower. Pot the roots between one and two inches deep, +in rich soil, and with the eyes upwards. A large pot will accommodate +several roots.</p> + +<p><b>Babiana</b>.—Treat in the same manner as the Ixia.</p> + +<p><b>Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.</b>—Lift the plants which are in the open +ground, and pot them to complete their season in the greenhouse; but if +they are not wanted for this purpose, they may remain in the beds until +October. When the stems fall, still retain the bulbs in their own pots, +and store them in a dry cellar or shed, under a layer of cocoa-nut +fibre. They need protection from both damp and cold. Neither hurry the +drying off of the roots, nor attempt to force the growth in spring, but +wait until they start naturally.</p> + +<p><b>Calceolarias</b> ought now to be in large 60-pots, placed close to the +glass to insure a dwarf habit. During sharp weather they may be taken +down, but should be restored immediately the danger is past. Much heat +in winter will be injurious; a range of 45° to 55° should be considered +the limits of variation in temperature. Pot the plants on as growth +demands.</p> + +<p><b>Crocus</b>.—For indoor decoration, two or three separate lots should be +potted at intervals of a fortnight; and the named varieties are worth +this mode of treatment, both for the size of their flowers and for the +exceptional brightness and diversity of their colours. Use a light rich +soil, and put six to eight corms in a 48-sized pot. They may also be +grown in quantity in large seed-pans or in shallow <a name="Page_402" id="Page_402"></a>boxes. When coming +into flower, the roots may be freed from soil to facilitate the packing +into ornamental baskets or vases.</p> + +<p><b>Crown Imperial</b>.—This bulb requires a rich loamy soil and an open +position to bring it to perfection. Still, it will flower satisfactorily +in a shrubbery, or under the shade of trees; and, so far as the roots +are concerned, there is no occasion to divide them more than once in +three seasons. Plant during this month, and on to the beginning of +November.</p> + +<p><b>Cyclamens</b> in pots will pay for an occasional dose of weak manure +water. Shut the plants up in good time on chilly evenings. If a sowing +of seed was not made last month it should be put in without delay.</p> + +<p>The hardy varieties, such as <i>C. europœum</i> and <i>C. Coum</i>, are cultivated +out of doors; and in some of the warmer districts of the South of +England the Persian varieties can also be successfully grown in the +open. They are suitable for rockwork, or for little nooks and sheltered +corners, in which some gardens abound. For their success good drainage, +a warm position, and plenty of water in dry weather are essential. +September and October are the best months for planting out.</p> + +<p><b>Dog’s-tooth Violet</b>.—For small beds, or in front of a rockery, these +compact and interesting little plants are valuable for spring flowering, +and are worth cultivating for their foliage alone. They also succeed in +pots, and thrive in peat, or in sandy loam and leaf-mould. A 48-sized +pot will accommodate five bulbs.</p> + +<p><b>Freesia</b>.—Towards the end of the month these bulbs will be ready for +removal to a cool greenhouse or cold pit. No heat is required—merely +protection from frost and excessive moisture. The stems are so slender +that support must be given early. As the plants do not bear re-potting, +the danger of exhausted soil can be met by administering weak manure +water occasionally.</p> + +<p><b>Fritillarias</b> belong to the same order as the Crown Imperial, and the +conditions which suit that plant will answer for all the Fritillarias. +The bulbs thrive in a deep loam, and they are quite hardy.</p> + +<p><b>Gladiolus</b>.—The potting of the early-flowering varieties should be +commenced this month and continued according to requirements. As the +corms of these Gladioli are small, several may be placed in a 32-sized +pot. No great amount of heat is wanted for these flowers, a temperature +of about 55° being quite sufficient for them.</p> + +<p><b>Gloxinia</b>.—As the season of rest approaches, place the plants in any +airy position, and gradually reduce the supply of water <a name="Page_403" id="Page_403"></a>until the +leaves fall off. The bulbs may be stored for the winter in peat or in +dry moss. The majority of growers, however, never store a bulb, but rely +entirely on seedlings raised annually.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinth</b>.—To grow this flower successfully in glasses demands no +horticultural skill, for children often produce very creditable +specimens. It only requires the intelligent application of certain +well-understood principles. Like all other bulbs, the Hyacinth should +form its roots before top-growth begins. The flower is cultivated in +water for two reasons: the pleasure derived from seeing the entire +plant, and the decorative value insured by this mode of treating it. As +darkness retards top-growth, but does not delay the production of roots, +it is usual to place the glasses in a cool cellar; and if this happens +to be airy as well as cool and dark, there is no better place in which +to start the bulbs. Still, it must be admitted that darkness is not +essential for the development of roots. But darkness and coolness alike +tend to delay the growth of foliage until roots are formed. Therefore, +if the cultivator resolves to have the plants in view from the +commencement, he must place them in a low and uniform temperature. The +water should always be pure and bright, although it must not quite touch +the bulb, or the latter will rot. Wires to support the flowers are +necessary, and those which are manufactured expressly for the purpose +are both neat and effective. A rather low temperature, and free access +of pure air, should be regarded as necessary conditions of health in all +stages of growth. Hence it will be obvious that a mantelpiece, with its +fluctuations of heat and cold, is a most unsuitable position for the +glasses. We should like to add, that notwithstanding the high qualities +of the Hyacinth, it is quite a cottager’s flower.</p> + +<p>For pot culture the Hyacinth is a grand subject. Prepare the pots +carefully as to drainage, and fill them with a light, rich, porous +compost. Remove a little soil from the central surface, and into this +hollow lightly press the bulb, and press the soil somewhat firmly round +it, leaving about half the bulb visible. If too much power is employed, +the soil will be so compact that when the roots begin to grow, instead +of penetrating, they will lift the bulb out of its proper position. +There is always some risk of this, and it accounts for the practice of +heaping over the pots a considerable weight of ashes. Of course this +covering serves a second purpose in checking leaf-growth until the roots +are established. Any cool and safe position will answer for storing the +pots at this stage. For the earliest supply of flowers select single +varieties, as these <a name="Page_404" id="Page_404"></a>naturally come into bloom somewhat in advance of +the doubles. When the tops begin to grow, remove the pots to a +greenhouse or frame, and subdue the light for a brief period until the +natural colour is gained. Thence transfer to the forcing-pit as +requirements demand; and they will need a week or ten days to prepare +them for use. It is easy to secure a continuous supply of Hyacinths from +Christmas onwards by forcing successive batches of roots until the final +display will come into flower without artificial assistance. To augment +the beauty of the flowers employ as little heat as may be necessary, and +defer the finishing temperature until the latest moment possible. For +general decorative purposes, small pots will be found extremely +convenient when a brilliant display is wanted in a limited compass; good +specimens can be grown in the 48-size, but for exhibition the 32-size +must be resorted to. Neither in pots nor in glasses should the bulbs be +allowed to send up leaves from between the outer scales; these rob the +central growth, and they should be carefully removed with a sharp knife.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinths, Italian and Roman</b>, should be potted in successive batches +to provide a continuous supply. When the roots are formed the pots may +be removed to a pit or frame, and to the forcing temperature as the buds +show. If they have been brought on gradually, a very few days in a warm +pit or house will throw them into bloom. It is a source of astonishment +to us that these flowers are not more extensively grown in private +gardens. Immense numbers are annually consigned to the London markets, +and find a ready sale for bouquets and table decoration. Of course these +Hyacinths will not bear comparison with the splendid named varieties +which come later, but the Italian and Roman classes are ready at a time +when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the same +class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to +ornamental contrivances.</p> + +<p><b>Iris</b>.—The tuberous varieties are all perfectly hardy, and may be +planted at any time from August to December. Put into light soil three +inches deep and nine inches apart they will give no trouble, except to +lift and divide them every second or third season.</p> + +<p><b>Ixia</b>.—Babianas, Ixias, and Sparaxis may all be treated in precisely +the same manner. In sheltered districts in the Southern counties they +can be grown in the open ground; but otherwise the culture must be in +pots under the shelter of a frame or greenhouse. A 48-sized pot will +hold four or five bulbs, and they will thrive in any soil which contains +a large proportion of sand. In spring they <a name="Page_405" id="Page_405"></a>may be transferred to a +sandy border, or they can be kept in pots for a couple of years when +well managed.</p> + +<p><b>Jonquil</b>.—The treatment recommended for Narcissus will suit this +highly perfumed flower, both for forcing and in the open ground.</p> + +<p><b>Narcissus</b>.—It is undesirable to hold these bulbs in a dry condition +longer than is necessary, and those intended for pot culture should be +got in promptly. A low temperature must be relied on for keeping back +such as are intended to flower late. The Double Roman and the Paper +White naturally come into bloom in advance of other sorts, and these +should be selected for the earliest display. Give them a rich porous +soil, and pot them rather firmly, but not so firmly as to render it +impossible for the roots to penetrate, or the bulb will be raised above +the soil. Place them in a cool spot, covered with suitable material to +keep the bulbs in their places, and to prevent the foliage from starting +prematurely. When top-growth commences, the pots must go into some house +or frame where they can progress slowly until the moment arrives for +forcing them. If the buds just show, about a week in a bottom heat of +65° will suffice to bring them to perfection. A succession can be +brought forward at intervals by the same means, until the final lot will +flower without artificial aid. And for the comfort of those who do not +possess heating apparatus, we may add that the flowers grown naturally +will probably be finer than those which have been forced.</p> + +<p>Narcissus may also be grown in glasses in the manner recommended for +Hyacinths, or in bowls and other suitable receptacles filled with +moss-fibre.</p> + +<p>In the open ground Narcissus should be planted in quantity, especially +in spots where it appears to be naturally at home, and one of the most +charming effects is obtained by putting them in the rough grass +adjoining shrubbery borders. Instead of cutting the grass, it must be +allowed to throw up flower-heads, and this affords the bulbs time to +mature in readiness for the following season. The many forms of Double +and Single Daffodil are effective border flowers, and the numerous +varieties of Narcissus should be grown in clumps and patches in every +spot which is suitable and vacant. In the reserve border of many gardens +large numbers of Pheasant’s Eye and other Narcissus are planted to +supply flowers for cutting. They are peculiarly valuable for the +purpose, and if cut when scarcely ready they will develop in water, and +last for many days. In planting, be guided as to distance by the size of +the bulb, allowing <a name="Page_406" id="Page_406"></a>four or five inches between small sorts, and six to +nine inches for large varieties; depth, six to nine inches.</p> + +<p><b>Oxalis</b>.—Except in a few sheltered districts, it will be necessary to +cultivate this exceedingly pretty flower in frames, or in a sunny, airy +greenhouse. It may also be forced in the stove with success. Put several +bulbs in a pot, and give them a light soil with plenty of sand in it.</p> + +<p><b>Snowdrop</b>.—It does not improve the roots of this exquisite little +favourite to keep them out of the ground, and they should, if possible, +be planted early.</p> + +<p><b>Sparaxis</b> needs the same treatment as advised for the Ixia.</p> + +<p><b>Sweet Pea</b>.—Exhibitors of Sweet Peas and those who endeavour to secure +the finest sprays for decorative purposes, commence the preparation of +the ground during the present month and incur whatever expense may be +necessary to insure a deep bed of rich friable loam in which the roots +can ramify freely. It is also the practice to sow seeds about the middle +of September in order to provide sturdy well-rooted plants in readiness +for transfer to the prepared plots in early spring. Either pots or boxes +may be used, and a frame is sufficient to bring the seedlings safely +through the winter. The method is dealt with in detail on page 305.</p> + +<p>From mid-September to the end of October, according to the locality, is +an excellent time for sowing Sweet Peas outdoors where the soil is light +and the situation fairly warm. Plants from autumn-sown seed are +generally more robust and produce finer flowers than those raised from +seed sown in the open in spring.</p> + +<p><b>Tropæolum tuberosum</b>.—In potting the tuberous varieties, insure +efficient drainage, and use a compost of rich light loam mixed with +sand. The foliage will trail over the sides of wire baskets with +graceful effect, but it may be trained around balloon-shaped wires +specially made for these flowers. The bulbs remain dormant all through +the winter, and may be started at any time from September to March.</p> + +<p><b>Tulip</b>.—The early class of Tulips is of great value for forcing +because of their brilliant colours and elegant forms. They take kindly +to a high temperature, but forcing should not be commenced too early, +nor should the heat be allowed to exceed 65° at the finish. Plunging is +the most satisfactory method. Several bulbs may be put into one pot, but +it is more convenient to grow them singly, so that flowers in exactly +the same stage of development may be selected for use at one time. A +continuous supply may be secured by <a name="Page_407" id="Page_407"></a>potting batches at short intervals. +When in bloom the roots can be washed free from soil for placing in +vases. Decayed turf, with decomposed cow-manure and a proportion of +sand, make an excellent potting soil for Tulips, and it will be all the +more suitable if laid up in a heap for twelve months after being mixed.</p> + + +<p><b>OCTOBER</b></p> + +<p><b>Anemone</b>.—The tuberous-rooted Anemones may be planted in the open at +any time from September to March, and from successive plantings a +continuous display will be obtained from February until far into spring. +For the choice named varieties it is customary for specialists to make +elaborate preparations, into which we need not enter here. Splendid +flowers can be grown in clumps and beds in ordinary gardens by deep +digging, and the employment of a liberal dressing of decayed cow-manure. +Plant the roots from four to six inches apart, and at a uniform depth of +about three inches. In a heavy, retentive soil it is not advisable to +risk a collection of named Anemones until January, unless a deep layer +of light compost can be placed in the drills where the roots are to be +planted.</p> + +<p><b>Annuals, Hardy</b>.—On light soils it will be safe to transplant these +now; but on heavy land the risk is too great, and we advise waiting +until February or March. Lift the plants with as much soil attached to +the roots as possible.</p> + +<p><b>Crocus</b>.—Several flowers bloom in advance of, or as early as, the +Crocus; but no other bulb of its own period can compare with it for +brightness and effective colouring. Plant during this month and +November, in groups and patterns wherever there is a vacant plot and +bulbs can be found to fill it. Put them in at a uniform depth of about +three inches. Drills are easy to draw, and are better for the bulbs than +the objectionable plan of dibbling.</p> + +<p><b>Cyclamen</b> seed may be sown again this month. If properly grown, +seedlings raised now will bloom splendidly next autumn.</p> + +<p><b>Ferraria</b>.—See Tigridia, page 379.</p> + +<p><b>Gladiolus</b>.—By the end of the month lift roots which have flowered, +even if the stems are still green. Label them, and hang in an airy place +to dry. A little later remove the foliage with a sharp knife. Then lay +out the roots for about a fortnight, and when ready store them in paper +bags or boxes placed on a dry shelf, secure from vermin.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408"></a><b>Hollyhock</b>.—In favoured districts and in light soil it will be safe +to winter this plant in the open ground with merely the protection of a +little dry litter. But in damp adhesive land it is perilous, and a cold +frame will afford the requisite protection until May returns.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinth</b>.—Considering the magnificent appearance of this flower, its +culture is most simple. Any fairly good garden soil which is not too +damp in winter will grow it; and the bulbs may be planted in clumps or +beds in any design or arrangement of colour that taste may dictate. At +six inches apart there will be a brilliant display, but the distance is +quite optional. The crowns of the bulbs should not be less than four or +more than six inches below the surface; the greater depth will slightly +retard the flowering. When planted they will give no more trouble until +the time arrives for lifting them to make room for other occupants.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinth, Feather</b>, is an exceedingly beautiful border flower during +May and early in June. The stems are from nine to fifteen inches high, +and carry flowers whose petals are cut into slender filaments. It will +grow in pots and in the open, in any soil which suits Hyacinths. Plant a +good number in each group.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinth, Grape</b>.—An interesting dark blue flower, which should be +freely grown in mixed borders to bloom in April. Singly it is useless; +plant good-sized clumps in soil which answers for bulbs.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinths, Miniature</b>, are the delight of children, in whose honour +many of the varieties are named. Except for their diminutive size, they +are in all respects equal to their larger relations. The culture in +pots, glasses, and beds is similar to that advised for the full-sized +roots, save that the planting in open ground need not be quite so deep, +three inches of soil over the crowns being sufficient.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinths, Italian and Roman</b>.—Uncover the pots containing the +earliest planting, and at first place them in a dimly lighted position. +The application of heat will depend on the time the flowers are wanted; +but when the plants are forward enough, plunge them in a temperature of +65°, and in about a week they will be ready for use.</p> + +<p><b>Lachenalias</b> rarely attain the proportions they are capable of for want +of water in their growing state. They thrive in peat, and may be forced +into flower at almost any season. Except in warm and sheltered gardens, +they must not be planted in the open. Yet only sufficient warmth is +required to keep frost at bay.</p> + +<p><b>Leucojums</b> are perfectly hardy bulbs which will grow in any garden. The +flowers resemble Snowdrops, but are much larger. Plant in dense groups.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409"></a><b>Narcissus</b>.—From the natural characteristics of this bulb it is +desirable that it should be planted early. Sometimes, however, it is +impossible, consistently with other arrangements, either to pot or to +plant Narcissus before October or November. In such cases it is +consoling to know that from sound, well-ripened roots good flowers may +be confidently anticipated, even from late plantings.</p> + +<p><b>Ornithogalum</b>.—In the open this bulb must have some protection during +winter, to save its large fleshy roots from injury by frost. A heap of +light manure or dry litter will answer the purpose. Plant six inches +deep.</p> + +<p><b>Scilla præcox</b> can be grown almost anywhere, and in a light rich soil +it blooms profusely. The bulbs will safely pass the severest winter in +the open ground, and flower in February or March. The exact time depends +on the climate and position. In sheltered spots and mild districts they +will naturally bloom earlier than in bleak and exposed quarters. Plant +in masses or lines, and the bulbs may remain undisturbed for years. A +dense row makes an exceedingly beautiful background to Snowdrops. The +other Scillas are equally hardy and valuable, and they all flower with +great freedom.</p> + +<p><b>Triteleia uniflora</b> is a handsome white-flowering hardy bulb, which +will grow freely in any garden. It is adapted for the company of any of +the dwarf-growing bulbs, and may be employed in either lines or clumps. +Plant the roots three inches apart and two inches deep.</p> + +<p><b>Tuberoses</b> are valued for the purity of their white flowers, and for +the agreeable perfume they exhale. The bulbs may be potted singly or +three in a pot. They thrive in a compost of loam and leaf-mould, and +need a bottom heat ranging between 60° and 70° to bring them to +perfection. The African bulbs are generally ready in September and the +importations from America arrive in December and January.</p> + +<p><b>Tulips</b> may be planted in the open ground at any time during the month. +We shall say nothing as to the arrangement of colours, nor as to the +form of the beds, for both points admit of endless diversity. The mixed +border may be enlivened with groups of many varieties, and if they are +judiciously selected, there will be a succession of flowers for several +weeks in the spring.</p> + +<p><b>Wallflower</b>.—After the summer bedding plants are cleared, Wallflowers +may be usefully employed to fill beds with green foliage all the winter. +They will flower freely in spring, when their colour and fragrance will +be especially welcome, and they <a name="Page_410" id="Page_410"></a>can be removed in time to make way for +a different display for the summer.</p> + +<p><b>Winter Aconite</b> is not dismayed by frost or snow, but will put forth +its golden blossoms in the dreariest days of February, and after the +flowers have passed away the foliage will remain as an ornament. To put +in single roots is useless; it is far better to plant a few large +patches than to fritter away the flower in a number of small and +inconspicuous groups.</p> + + +<p><b>NOVEMBER</b></p> + +<p><b>Cyclamen.</b>—Where there is a large demand for this flower, another +sowing may be made this month, unless it was done in October. With so +important a subject it is not wise to depend on a single venture. The +seedlings will afford a valuable succession to those started in August.</p> + +<p><b>Gladiolus.</b>—The soil which answers best for the autumn-flowering +section is a medium friable loam, with a cool rich subsoil. A light loam +can be made suitable by trenching, and putting a thick layer of +cow-manure at the bottom of each trench. And a heavy soil may be reduced +to the proper condition by the free admixture of light loam or sand. +Autumn is the proper time for doing this work, and the ground should be +left rough, so that it may benefit by winter frosts. Wireworms are +deadly enemies to the Gladiolus corms, and an effort should be made to +clear them out. Happily, they will flock to traps such as Potatoes and +Rape cake, and their destruction is a mere question of daily attention. +Planting must, of course, be deferred until spring.</p> + +<p><b>Hyacinthus candicans</b> is generally grown in the company of other +flowers which attain to something like its own imposing proportions. In +good soil the spikes grow three feet high. It may be planted from this +time until March.</p> + +<p><b>Lilies</b> are an ornament to the cottage garden, and they grace the +grandest conservatory. Many of the most superb varieties, including the +king of all the race, <i>L. auratum</i>, can be magnificently flowered in the +open border; and we have seen fine specimens of the <i>Lancifolium</i> +varieties grown in pots without the aid of pit or frame. It is therefore +obvious that there are no difficulties in the culture of Lilies. In +borders the best soil for them is a deep, rich, moist loam. Peat and +leaf-mould also answer; but a stiff clay will not do unless it has been +cultivated and mixed with lighter stuff. Plant the roots at <a name="Page_411" id="Page_411"></a>least six +inches deep, at any time they are in a dormant state, or can be obtained +in pots. Their position in the border should be clearly marked, or the +roots may sustain injury when the soil is forked over.</p> + +<p>The noble appearance of <i>L. auratum</i> will always command for it a +prominent place in the conservatory or greenhouse. It will grow in sandy +peat, or in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand. The bulb should be +put into a small pot at first. When this is full of roots, transfer to a +larger size, and shift occasionally until the flower-buds appear, when +re-potting must cease. A cool house will bring the plant to perfection, +although it will bear a high temperature if wanted early. During growth +water must be given freely and be gradually reduced when the flowering +season is over.</p> + +<p>The <i>Lancifolium</i> varieties require the same treatment, but it is usual +to put several in one large pot. After the flowering is ended, instead +of allowing the bulbs to become quite dry, keep them moist enough to +prevent the fibrous roots from perishing, and they will start with all +the greater vigour when the time arrives for repotting next season.</p> + +<p><b>Lily of the Valley.</b>—The forcing of this favourite flower generally +begins in November, and it is important to secure roots which are +thoroughly matured for the purpose. They must be finished in a high +temperature, and if managed with judgment there will be plenty of +foliage to set off the long spikes of charming white bells. When planted +in the open ground a shaded spot should be chosen, which must be freely +enriched with leaf-mould, and the plants will not need to be lifted for +four or five years.</p> + +<p><b>Ranunculus</b>.—On a light dry soil, where there is no danger of the +roots sustaining injury during winter, this is a suitable time for +planting all the varieties. To do them justice the land must be +liberally dressed with decayed manure, and the longer the bed can be +made ready before planting, the better will it answer. Put the roots in +drills drawn six inches apart and two inches deep and cover with fine +soil. For retentive land it is advisable to defer planting until +February.</p> + +<p><b>Tritonia</b>.—Perhaps the best way of treating this flower is to pot the +bulbs now or in December, and keep them in frames until April, when they +may be transferred to the open ground. A dry soil and a sunny spot +should be found for them.</p> + +<p><b>Tulip.</b>—There is no better time for planting Tulips in beds than the +first half of this month. The bulbs should be covered with four or five +inches of soil according to size, and it is important that each <a name="Page_412" id="Page_412"></a>kind +should be put in at a uniform depth to insure a simultaneous display. On +a heavy soil draw deep drills, and partially fill them with light +compost, on which the roots should be planted. The late single varieties +are the Tulips which were formerly so highly prized by florists. For +these bulbs it was the custom to prepare the soil with extraordinary +care when the Tulip craze was at its height. After the amazing folly of +paying 300l. for a single bulb, the minor folly of extravagance in +preparing the soil may be readily pardoned. Happily that phase of the +business has passed away, and handsome Tulips are now grown without such +a prodigal expenditure of money and labour. The site for this flower +should be sunny, the soil fairly rich, and the drainage good. With these +conditions insured, and roots which are sound and dense, it is easy to +obtain a magnificent show of Tulips.</p> + +<p><b>Zephyranthes Candida</b> can be grown in any soil, and if possible the +bulbs should be planted in some spot where they may remain unmolested +through several seasons. The flowers appear about the end of July, +resembling a White Crocus in form, and the blooming continues until cold +weather sets in. Planting may be done between November and March.</p> + + +<p><b>DECEMBER</b></p> + +<p>Only the idle or the half-hearted gardener will complain that he has no +work to do in the short dark days of this month. Although there may be +little or nothing to plant or sow, and few flowers need repotting, yet +there are soils to obtain and store for future use; former heaps to turn +over and remake; dead leaves to remove from plants in pits and houses; +stakes and neat sticks to prepare for subjects which will need support +by-and-by; beds and borders to enrich, and many other duties to perform. +In the evenings, too, there are new combinations and fresh harmonies in +colour to be designed for beds and groups in borders; the requirements +for the coming season to consider while experience gained during the +closing year is still fresh in the memory; the position of plants in +pits and frames and houses to forecast, so that the plan of the summer +campaign may be clearly understood, and all the resources of the garden +be under intelligent control. The fluctuations of the thermometer have +also to be watched, and means adopted to save plants from injury by a +sudden fall of temperature. Altogether, there are abundant sources of +profitable employment for those who have a mind to work.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413"></a><b>Bulbs</b>, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, &c., which have not been +planted, will have commenced growing, notwithstanding the precautions +taken to prevent it, thus showing that they ought to be in the ground. +The growth has been made at the expense of the bulb itself, for there +are no fibrous roots from which to draw support. Therefore it can +scarcely be expected that the flowers from very late plantings will be +quite so good as the same bulbs would have produced had they been put in +at an earlier period. Still there are cases when the delay is +unavoidable, and it is reassuring to know that sound bulbs carefully set +at the proper depth will produce flowers only in a degree inferior to +those from earlier plantings.</p> + +<p><b>Bulbs in store</b>, such as Begonia, Dahlia, Gladiolus, and Gloxinia, +should be passed in review. Examination will almost certainly reveal +some unsound specimens, and their removal may save valuable companions +from their contaminating influence. This practice should be followed up +about once a fortnight until all are eventually planted.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414"></a> +<a name="THE_PESTS_OF_GARDEN_PLANTS" id="THE_PESTS_OF_GARDEN_PLANTS"></a> +THE PESTS OF GARDEN PLANTS</h2> + +<p>The life-history of plant pests and ground vermin, with the best means +of saving various crops from their ravages, are dealt with in a series +of valuable leaflets issued by the Ministry of Agriculture and +Fisheries. These leaflets embrace a very large number of subjects, +several of which belong to the farm and the orchard and are beyond the +scope of the present volume. Others are rarely met with, but concerning +those which are common to the majority of gardens we offer information +which will, we hope, enable readers to safeguard their crops from +disaster.</p> + +<p>When adverse weather operates injuriously on vegetation the plagues that +infest garden plants usually acquire increased power in proportion to +the degree of debility to which vegetation is reduced. This circumstance +perfectly accords with the general law of Nature, and is full of +instruction as to the means of saving plants from serious injury by +vermin. The keen, dry east wind that so often jeopardises fruit crops is +usually followed by visitations of fly and maggot, and in this case the +cause is beyond human power or forethought. But neglect of watering and +air-giving to pot plants can be avoided. Good cultivation not only +insures fine specimens, but is often the means of preventing the plants +from failing under the attacks of Aphis, Mealy Bug, and other enemies +against which the gardener has to fight an unceasing battle.</p> + +<p>Insects are among the frailest of living creatures and they perish at a +touch. As they breathe through the pores of the skin, water alone—the +promoter of life and cleanliness—is death to them; and they are still +more subject to sure destruction when to the water is added an active +poison, such as tobacco, or a substance that adheres to them and stops +the process of breathing, such as glue, clay, sulphur, <a name="Page_415" id="Page_415"></a>soft soap, and +the numerous preparations that are specially made to annihilate insect +hosts.</p> + +<p>The various stages through which the larger insects pass place them +within our power at some period of their existence. The butterfly may +float beyond the reach of harm, but in the caterpillar or the chrysalis +state it can be dealt with effectually. Again, we may be powerless to +destroy the Chafer grubs as they feed or hibernate beneath turf, but in +their perfect state as Cockchafers or Rose Chafers many may be beaten +down during quiet evenings, and others can be shaken from Roses at dawn +or sunset. A knowledge of the life-history of injurious insects will +suggest what is to be done and the right time for doing it, so that +often by simple treatment they may be destroyed.</p> + +<p>The expense of preparing mixtures and washes may be in some degree +lessened by economy of application. A drenching-board fitted on a firm +frame, should be provided in every place where plant-growing is carried +on to any extent. The board should slope from a resting ridge at the +base. The plant in its pot may be laid on the board, with the bottom of +the pot against the resting ridge, and a pail should be put to catch the +liquid used as it drains from the plant after syringing. Every general +washing or fumigating should be followed by another at an interval of +from a week to a fortnight, because, although the first operation may +kill every insect, there will be many living eggs left, and these renew +the race, and very soon bring the plants into as bad a state as ever, +unless consigned to a happy despatch as their parents were. In some +cases it will be more economical to feed than to destroy the vermin; +and, as a rule, feeding vermin does not add to their numbers, in the +same or any future season, for insect life is so strangely dependent on +certain conditions of temperature, &c., that if the season is not +favourable to a particular kind it will be scarce, no matter how +plentiful it may have been in a previous year. In the case of the Turnip +Fly, feeding is frequently the cheapest and surest way of saving the +crop. It is customary with Dahlia-growers, and, indeed, with the growers +of florists’ flowers generally, to sow Lettuces where the flowers are to +be planted, for so long as Lettuces are on the spot Slugs and Snails +will prefer them to other food. As the Lettuces themselves serve the +purpose of traps, the Snails and Slugs congregated about them may, +towards evening, be caught and destroyed.</p> + +<p>In using a mixture for the first time, it is advisable to try it on one +plant only, and that, of course, the worst in the collection <a name="Page_416" id="Page_416"></a>affected. +If the preparation is too strong, the truth will be declared by the +state of the plant within twenty-four hours; thus a little caution may +prevent a great loss. Another good rule is to employ the several +remedies in a rather weak state until experience has been gained, for +not only has the strength of the medicine to be considered, but the +management of the patient before and after it is administered. It is +above all things important to be thorough in the cleansing of plants, +because they succumb rapidly to the attacks of insects, and should be +effectually and promptly cleaned or consigned to the fire. If left in a +foul state they spread the infection to all around. In the space at our +command it is only possible to notice a few of the garden pests, and we +begin with one of the most frequent and troublesome of plant foes.</p> + +<p><b>Aphis</b> in some form or other is the most persistent and perplexing of +plant pests. The Green Fly is the enemy of the softer kinds of +vegetation, and the Blue and the Black Fly are common plagues of the +Peach-house and the orchard. The tender body of the Aphis is instantly +affected by conditions unfavourable to its life, and it is therefore +easily killed; but its marvellous power of reproduction renders its +extinction impossible, for in every instance a few escape, and very soon +re-establish their race. Two methods for the destruction of Aphis are in +vogue. One is fumigation by tobacco, either pure or in some of the +numerous preparations offered, including several popular insecticides +which have nicotine as a basis. These are both clean and effective. When +a houseful of plants is infested no time should be lost, and the evening +is most suitable for dealing with the pests. The plants ought to be +quite dry and the house closely shut. A dense cloud of smoke without +flame is required. Allow the smoke to do its deadly work during the +night. Early next morning syringe the plants freely, and in the course +of an hour or so give air. The other remedy is to use one of the many +liquids which are inimical to the life of Aphis and other insect pests. +To economise the liquid it is advisable to fill a pail or tub and +immerse the plants individually. Take one in the right hand and spread +the fingers of the left hand over the surface of the soil to prevent an +accident; then turn the plant over and plunge the foliage in the liquid, +moving it up and down briskly two or three times. If this is not +practicable syringe the plants, taking care to wet the leaves on both +sides. On the following day syringe with pure soft water.</p> + +<p>Rose trees may generally be cleansed of fly by means of the <a name="Page_417" id="Page_417"></a>garden +engine and pure water only, the essential point being to direct the +water on the trees with some amount of force for several evenings in +succession whenever the fly threatens to obtain the mastery.</p> + +<p>Soft soap dissolved in water makes a cheap and effectual wash for +exterminating all kinds of Aphis, and to these ingredients quassia may +with advantage be added. One pound of soft soap will suffice for ten +gallons of water, into which stir the extract obtained by boiling one +pound of quassia chips in water. Pot plants can be dipped in it as +already advised, or the solution may be applied by means of the syringe. +On the following day the plants should be cleansed with pure soft water.</p> + +<p><b>The Bean Aphis</b>, also known as the Bean Plant Louse, or Black Dolphin +<i>(Aphis rumicis)</i>. Our illustration shows the wingless female and pupa +natural size and magnified. The pupa is black with greyish white +mottlings, while the female is deep greenish black in colour. This +insect commonly attacks the young shoots and tops of Broad Beans. It is +well to cut off the infected tops and burn them. Should the attack be +repeated spray the Beans with a solution of soft soap and quassia.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/002.jpg" width="450" height="308" alt="[Illustration: Bean Aphis]" /> +<p class="caption">BEAN APHIS<br /> +<i>Aphis fabæ</i> (pupa and female)</p> +</div> + +<p><b>The Pea Siphon-Aphis</b> (<i>Siphonophora pisi</i>, Kalt).—Among the aphides +peculiar to vegetables this is one of the most common.<br /></p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/003.jpg" width="600" height="275" alt="[Illustration: Pea Siphon-Aphis]" /> +<p class="caption">PEA SIPHON-APHIS<br /> +<i>Siphonophora pisis</i></p> +</div> + +<p>Our illustration shows the natural size and an enlarged figure of the +<a name="Page_418" id="Page_418"></a>greenish-winged and green-tinted wingless females, as produced, not +from eggs, but alive and developed. This insect is occasionally very +destructive to Pea crops.</p> + +<p><b>American Blight</b>, or <b>Woolly Aphis</b>, generally appears first on trees +grafted on dwarfing stocks, particularly the bad forms of the Paradise +Apple. Rapidly the mischief spreads, healthy trees become infested, and +unless checked an orchard is speedily ruined. Andrew Murray says that in +bad cases of American Blight it is sometimes necessary to root up and +burn all the trees, and let the ground remain unplanted for a year or +two. Fruit trees should be examined periodically for this pest, and +immediately the woolly spots are detected small tainted boughs should be +pruned away, and from the mainstems and large branches diseased spots +can be pared off. The operation may need a bold and vigorous hand if the +trees are to be saved, and it is important that every scrap should be +burned. There is almost certain to be a further appearance of the +Blight, which should be destroyed by one of the many remedies known to +be effectual. Fir Tree Oil Insecticide has proved to be an excellent +remedy. Gishurst Compound, in the proportion of eight ounces to a gallon +of water, with sufficient clay added to render it adhesive, makes a +capital winter paint for Apple trees. But there is no cheap remedy equal +to soft soap for smothering American Blight in the crannies of the bark. +The soap may be rubbed into the diseased spots, or as a wash it can be +brushed into the boughs.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/004.jpg" width="407" height="500" alt="[Illustration: American Blight]" /> +<p class="caption">AMERICAN BLIGHT<br /> +<i>Schizoneura lanigera</i></p> +</div> + +<p>Our illustration shows a piece of Apple twig with the aphides and their +woolly material natural size. The enlarged figures represent the winged +female and the wingless larva of the Apple Blight Aphis <i>(Schizoneura +lanigera</i>). The insect is deep purplish brown in <a name="Page_419" id="Page_419"></a>colour, and the +well-known bluish white cottony material naturally exudes from it.</p> + +<p><b>The Carrot Fly</b> (<i>Psila rosæ</i>, Fab.), with its larva, pupa, and perfect +insect, is illustrated natural size and enlarged. The ochreous shining +larvæ live upon the tap-roots of the Carrot, and by eating into them +cause them to rot. In colour the body of the fly is an intensely dark +greenish black, with a rusty ochreous head. The presence of the larvæ in +the root is made known by the change in the colour of the leaves from +green to yellow, and the attacked plants should be promptly forked out +entire and burned.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/005.jpg" width="400" height="230" alt="[Illustration: Carrot Fly]" /> +<p class="caption">CARROT FLY<br /> +<i>Psila Rosæ</i> (with maggot and chrysalis)</p> +</div> + +<p>It is well to dig the ground in autumn, so that the earth may be exposed +to the frosts of winter and the pupæ to the attention of birds. After +sowing, spray the Carrot bed with paraffin emulsion. Spray again after +germination, and a third time when thinning is finished. The emulsion to +be made by dissolving half a pound of soft soap in a gallon of boiling +water. While still boiling, pour the liquid into two gallons of paraffin +and churn thoroughly until a buttery mass results. This will keep for a +long time in tins. Before use, dilute with twenty times the quantity of +water—soft water if possible. This is an excellent preventive. After +the work of thinning, the fly may also be kept off the plants by +scattering over them ashes, sand, or earth, impregnated with paraffin. +Carbolic powder and soot are both disagreeable to the insect. It has +been observed that when singling the disturbance of the soil is +favourable to the operations of the Carrot Fly. A copious watering when +the task is ended will firm the earth round the remaining roots, and +prevent the fly from easily getting down to deposit eggs.</p> + +<p>Carrots and Parsnips are often attacked by the larva of a Carrot Moth +(<i>Depressaria cicutella</i>), which spins webs for security while feeding, +and sometimes works havoc among the foliage. A simple remedy is to shake +the caterpillars from the leaves of the plants, when they can be +destroyed by the use of lime.</p> + +<p><b>Celery Fly.</b>—The apparent blisters in Celery leaves are spots +deficient of leaf-green, which the larva of the Celery Fly has eaten.<a name="Page_420" id="Page_420"></a> +Dusting newly-planted Celery with lime or soot may do something to +prevent the fly from laying its eggs, but the most certain preventive is +to boil half a pound of coal tar in one gallon of water for twenty +minutes, add fifty gallons of clear water, and syringe the plants about +noon once or twice from the middle to the end of June. When once the +grub has made a home, it should be crushed by pinching the leaf between +the finger and thumb, or the injured portions of the leaves should be +cut out and burned. In doing this it must always be remembered that the +leaves are as much needed by the plant as the roots, and every leaf +removed tends to diminish the vigour of the plant. Our illustration +shows the Celery Fly (formerly known as <i>Tephritis onopordinis</i>, but now +called <i>Acidia heraclei</i>) natural size and magnified. This fly is also +destructive to the leaves of Parsnips, and is named <i>onopordinis</i> from +its habit of frequenting the Cotton Thistle (<i>Onopordon Acanthium</i>). The +larva is white to very pale green, the fly is shining tawny. An +Ichneumon Fly detects the larva of the Celery Fly in the Celery and +Parsnip leaves, and lays its eggs in the body of the larva. These +parasites, named <i>Alysia apii</i>, assist in reducing the numbers of the +Celery Fly.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/006.jpg" width="450" height="284" alt="[Illustration: Celery Fly]" /> +<p class="caption">CELERY FLY AND LARVA<br /> +<i>Tephritis onopordinis</i></p> +</div> + +<p>All Celery refuse should be destroyed by fire. Infested ground may, if +suitable, be trenched, bringing the subsoil to the surface and burying +the top soil containing the pupæ. Frequent rough digging and the +exposure of fresh surfaces to be searched by birds will also do +something to abate the number of this pest. But in bad cases it will be +necessary to resort to gas-lime, which poisons the pupæ and eventually +benefits the soil, although in the season immediately following its use +crops may be less satisfactory than usual.</p> + +<p><b>Onion Fly.</b>—Onions are frequently attacked by the larvæ of the Onion +Fly, and in some instances the entire crop is destroyed. Our +illustration shows the natural size of the fly and maggot, with +magnified representations of both. The fly lays six to eight eggs on an +Onion plant, generally just above the ground. These eggs hatch in from +five to seven days, according to the temperature, and the <a name="Page_421" id="Page_421"></a>maggots at +once burrow into the Onion. The result is soon visible in the +discoloration of the leaves which turn yellow and begin to decay. +Several generations of the insect, the scientific name of which is +<i>Phorbia cepetorum</i>, appear in the course of a single season. A close +ally is the Cabbage Root Fly (<i>P. brassicæ</i>), the destroyer of Cabbage +roots.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/007.jpg" width="450" height="268" alt="[Illustration: Onion Fly]" /> +<p class="caption">ONION FLY AND LARVA<br /> +<i>Anthomyia ceparum</i></p> +</div> + +<p>Among the numerous methods of preventing attack and of destroying the +grubs the following are worth attention:—</p> + +<p>Where this pest proves very troublesome it may be desirable to transfer +Onion growing to new ground until the infested land has been purged of +the pupæ. Instead of throwing useless Onion material on the waste heap +to afford the fly a home for its eggs, every scrap should be burned. As +the preparation of an Onion bed approaches completion, powdered lime +well mixed with soot, in the proportion of two bushels of the former to +one of the latter, may be sown evenly over the surface and raked in. +Sand impregnated with paraffin sown along the drills has answered as a +preventive. Vaporite is a destroyer of the pupæ; this preparation has +proved deadly to ground vermin generally. Earthing up the Onions was +proved by Miss Ormerod’s experiment to be effective. The objection to +this procedure is the probability of enlarged necks which are not +wanted. An emulsion, composed of one pint of paraffin, one pound of soft +soap mixed with ten gallons of water, thoroughly churned by a hand +syringe and sprayed over the young plants in a fine mist, is a valuable +preventive. The dose may be repeated after rainfall, if necessary. The +quantities named suffice for a small plot only. Soapsuds are destructive +to the maggots, disagreeable to the fly, and beneficial to the young +plants. The suds should be sprayed over the bed from a watering can on +the first appearance of a yellow colour in the grass. As a final +suggestion reference may be made to a singular fact which we do not +profess to explain, viz. that transplanted Onions are very seldom +touched by grub. The modern practice of raising seedlings under glass in +January or February, and planting out in open beds in April, offers the +advantage of a long season of growth combined with comparative immunity +from attack by the Onion Fly.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422"></a><b>Turnip Fly,</b> or <b>Flea,</b> is well known to the gardener, and is the most +troublesome of all the aërial pests of the farm, and one with which it +is most difficult to cope, not only because of its general diffusion and +numbers, but because it produces a succession of broods throughout the +summer, and is therefore always in force, ready to devour the crop +immediately it appears. The so-called ‘Fly’ is a small beetle named +<i>Haltica (Phyllotreta) nemorum</i>, strongly made, and decidedly voracious. +The larvæ are not to be feared, except that, of course, they in due time +become beetles. In the perfect state this winged jumping insect makes +havoc of the rising plant of Turnips, but the crop is only in danger +while in the seed-leaf stage. It is in the spring and early summer +chiefly that the ravages of these insects occasion perplexity, for they +awaken from their winter torpor active and hungry, and have a ready +appetite for almost any cruciferous plant. Hence we see the leaves of +Radishes pierced by them, and all such weeds as Charlock, Cuckoo Flower, +Hedge Garlic, and Water Cress serve them for food until the Turnip crops +are on the move, when they will travel miles, even against the wind, to +wreck the farmer’s hopes. The Cabbage Flea (<i>Haltica oleracea</i>) in some +districts is equally troublesome, if not more so. Whole Cabbages may be +destroyed by this pest, and even Hops are often ruined by it.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/008.jpg" width="450" height="401" alt="[Illustration: Turnip Fly]" /> +<p class="caption">TURNIP FLY OR BEETLE<br /> +<i>Haltica nemorum</i> (with larva and chrysalis)</p> +</div> + +<p>Preventive and remedial measures that can easily be carried out in a +garden may be impracticable on a farm. We propose to enumerate them +briefly as they occur to us, leaving the ultimate choice of weapons to +those who may unfortunately find occasion to use them.</p> + +<p>One precaution is to insure a quick germination of the seed and strong +growth of the plant in its seed-leaf stage. The cotyledons are tender +and tasty, perhaps sugary from Nature’s process of malting; and while +the seed-leaf is assailable the <i>Haltica</i> makes the best of the shining +hour. The seed sown should be all of one age, and the newest possible, +because of the need for a quick and strong growth. When a powerful +artificial is sown with the seed, the quantity of seed must be +increased, as a proportion may be killed by the manure. It <a name="Page_423" id="Page_423"></a>is important +always to drill Turnip seed; broadcasting seems to invite the Fly—at +all events, a drilled crop is generally safer. Before sowing, the seed +may be soaked in paraffin or turpentine. Of the two the latter appears +to be the more successful in keeping the insects at bay.</p> + +<p>Rolling an infested plant disturbs and weakens the insects and +stimulates the young plant.</p> + +<p>The sprinkling of slaked lime over the seedlings is at once a safe and +an efficient process, and possesses the additional advantage of being +beneficial to the plant. We are aware that it does not always succeed, +but we are inclined to attribute the failure to a bad quality of the +lime, or a careless method of employing it. There should be enough put +on to make the plants white, and they will be none the worse for the +whitening. Dustings of fine ashes or soot are scarcely less effective, +but salt must not be used, for it injures the plants and does not hurt +the beetle. All such dustings should be done in the early morning, while +the plants are wet with dew. To apply a dusting at midday, when the sun +shines gaily, is to waste time, and probably many of the recorded +failures might be explained if we knew at what hour and in what sort of +weather the work was done. Nets and sticking boards have been tried and +found effectual, and yet such things are rarely used. A board thickly +covered with white paint, drawn over the plot on a still, sunny day, +soon becomes a black board by the myriads of <i>Halticas</i> that jump at and +remain attached to it, the victims of their extravagant love of light. +Old sacks soaked in paraffin and drawn over the drills impart a +disagreeable flavour to the leaves, and a very fine spray of paraffin +distributed by a machine specially constructed for the purpose has +proved effective.</p> + +<p>Finally, this, in common with all other insects in the winged state, +needs a dry air and some degree of warmth for its health and happiness. +Many kinds of larvæ need moisture, but no winged insect can abide +moisture long, and herein is a clue to the eradication of Turnip Fly. By +the simple process of spraying the plant three or four times a day, +until it is out of the seed-leaf, and the danger is over, it is possible +in the garden to wash out the <i>Haltica</i>; and any kind of insecticide or +flavouring, such as quassia, may be mingled with the water to render the +plants distasteful to the insects.</p> + +<p>The illustration on page 422 shows the Turnip Fly in its three stages, +and in each case of the natural size and magnified seven diameters.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/009.jpg" width="450" height="488" alt="[Illustration: Daddy Longlegs]" /> +<p class="caption">DADDY LONG LEGS<br /> +<i>Tipula</i> (in various stages)</p> +</div> + +<p><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424"></a><b>Daddy Longlegs</b>, or <b>Crane Fly</b>, in its perfect form of a fly (<i>Tipula +oleracea</i>) does no harm, but the grubs, known by the familiar name of +‘leather-jackets’ owing to the toughness of their skins, are terribly +destructive. During late summer and autumn the female fly deposits its +eggs in large numbers in turf, in garden soil and amongst garden refuse. +The eggs are hatched in a fortnight or so and the dark grubs lie in the +ground through the winter, inflicting their maximum, amount of injury to +young crops in spring and early summer. Where song birds are scarce the +Tipula is capable of utterly destroying grass and of seriously ravaging +the Kitchen Garden; but cultivation, aided by the robins, thrushes, +nightingales, and other birds, will keep the insect within bounds, even +after a hot summer favourable to its increase. Where this pest is known +to exist, an application of Vaporite at the time of preparing ground for +sowing or planting will destroy many of the grubs. The regular use of +the hoe is also to be recommended, for by the disturbance of the soil +the enemy is exposed to the sharp eye of the robin and other feathered +gardeners.</p> + +<p><b>Root-knot Eelworm.</b>—One of the worst pests that a Cucumber-grower has +to deal with manifests itself by the presence of minute warts or +nodosities, chiefly on the rootlets. These warts, which are caused by +the action of innumerable small thread-like worms named <i>Heterodera +radicicola</i>, range from the size of a pin’s head to that of a pea, and +when they are present in large numbers the total failure of the Cucumber +crop is the invariable result. The eelworms are probably introduced to +Cucumber-houses in infected water. Each worm is about one-seventyfifth +of an inch in length and is at first coiled up inside a transparent egg. +At maturity the eggs crack open, and the worms on emerging bore into the +most tender rootlets, and there lay their eggs. These eggs speedily +hatch inside the <a name="Page_425" id="Page_425"></a>plant and new eelworms are produced, which traverse +the rootlets in every direction.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/010.jpg" width="450" height="308" alt="[Illustration: Cucumber Eel-worms and eggs]" /> +<p class="caption">CUCUMBER EEL-WORMS AND EGGS<br /> +<i>Anguillulæ</i></p> +</div> + +<p>These <i>Heterodera</i> are by no means peculiar to the Cucumber; they attack +the roots of Tomatoes and Melons, and the roots, stems, and foliage of +many other plants. Our illustration shows some very small Cucumber +rootlets, natural size, with the eelworms in the eggs, and also emerging +from and free of the empty eggshell (enlarged eighty diameters).</p> + +<p>Immediately symptoms of the pest are apparent from the wilting of the +foliage and stems, all infected plants should be removed and burned. The +soil must also be cleared out and the interior of the house thoroughly +washed with a solution of carbolic acid in water:—one part of the +former to eight parts of the latter. To purify the infected soil, use a +solution of carbolic acid (one part) and water (twenty parts) and +saturate three times, at intervals of a fortnight. Another remedy is to +mix weathered gas-lime freely with the soil. In either case the soil +will be unfit for use for at least six weeks after treatment. When the +house has been well cleansed, fresh compost should be used, to which the +addition of lime and soot, mixed with the soil, will be beneficial.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/011.jpg" width="450" height="272" alt="[Illustration: Mealy Bug]" /> +<p class="caption">MEALY BUG<br /> +<i>Dactylopius odonidum</i></p> +</div> + +<p><b>Mealy Bug.</b>—This plague is by no means confined to plants under glass. +In the case of a lot of stove plants badly affected, the desperate +course of committing the whole to the fire, and then repairing and +painting the house, is often the cheapest in the end. We have known a +Pine-grower compelled to destroy a houseful of plants that have been +infested by the introduction of a plant from a buggy collection. Mealy +Bug may be known by its mealy, floury, or cottony appearance. It has a +great fancy for Grape vines. One of the best remedies is Gishurst +Compound, prepared at the rate of eight ounces to a <a name="Page_426" id="Page_426"></a>gallon of water, +with clay added to give it the consistence of paint. Miscellaneous stove +plants may be cleansed by washing with a brush and soft soap. Our +illustration shows a group of Mealy Bugs natural size, with one insect +magnified.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/012.jpg" width="450" height="369" alt="[Illustration: Red Spider]" /> +<p class="caption">RED SPIDER<br /> +<i>Tetranychus telarius</i></p> +</div> + +<p><b>Red Spider</b> is present in almost every vinery, however well managed. A +moist atmosphere is a great, though not a certain preventive; but it is +not possible, without injury to the vines, to keep the air of the house +always so humid that the Spider is unable to obtain a lodgment. +Syringing promotes a moist atmosphere, and is unfavourable to the Red +Spider, which thrives best in heat and dryness. But the most decided +repellent of Spider is the use of sulphur on the hot-water pipes. This +may be managed by sprinkling dry sulphur on the pipes, or by making a +thick solution of sulphur, clay, and water, with which the pipes should +be painted. Be careful not to raise the heat at the same time, for if +the pipes are hotter than the hand can bear fumes destructive to +vegetation will be given off. Melons and Cucumbers may generally be kept +clear of Spider by means of the syringe only; but when Melons are +ripening they must be kept rather dry, and it is very difficult indeed +to finish a crop without having the plants attacked by Red Spider. +Gishurst Compound answers admirably to remove Spider from house plants. +The mixture should consist of one and a half or two ounces to one gallon +of water, and should be applied with a sponge. The scientific name of +the Red Spider is <i>Tetranychus telarius</i>. Our illustration shows one of +these destructive red mites natural size, and two individuals greatly +magnified.</p> + +<p><b>Scale.</b>—A very common species, found on many kinds of stove and other +plants, is the <i>Lecanium hibernaculorum</i>, here illustrated on a twig, +natural size, and magnified. It is brown, tumid, and commonly somewhat +more than hemispherical in shape. Besides this species there is the <i>L. +filicum</i> of Ferns, the <i>L. hemisphoericum</i> of Dracænas, the <i>L. +rotundum</i> of the Peach, and the common<a name="Page_427" id="Page_427"></a> <i>L. hesperidum</i>, or Orange-tree +Bug, which is one of the flat species, and it spreads to a great variety +of plants. The Scale insect sucks the sap from plants, and in some +instances the ground beneath the foliage is wet and soddened by the +falling sap. Spirit of turpentine applied with a soft brush is +considered to be a good remedy for Scale. It is, however, advisable (as +in other remedies) to test this on a small number of plants at first. A +near relative, a large brown <i>Coccus</i>, infests pomaceous trees, and is +especially partial to the Pyracantha, which it often kills outright. The +Scale of the Vine is <i>Pulvinaria</i> or <i>Coccus vitis</i>. Careful washing +with soap and water, and the destruction of each separate Scale as soon +as seen, can be recommended for the extirpation of this pest.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/013.jpg" width="450" height="182" alt="[Illustration: Common Scale]" /> +<p class="caption">COMMON SCALE<br /> +<i>Lecanium hibernaculorum</i><br /> +(natural size and enlarged)</p> +</div> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/014.jpg" width="450" height="335" alt="[Illustration: Thrips]" /> +<p class="caption">THRIPS<br /> +<i>Thrips minutissima</i></p> +</div> + +<p><b>Thrips</b> may pursue their mischief to a great extent before they are +discovered by the novice, for their minute size and their habit render +them inconspicuous. But the black deposit they make reveals their +existence to the experienced eye, and the debilitated condition of the +plants they have attacked would soon compel attention were there no such +deposit to tell the tale. The Indian Azaleas are apt to be beset by +Thrips, as the Grape-vine is by Scale, the Pineapple by Mealy Bug, and +the Rose by Green Aphis. Atmospheric humidity is a powerful preventive, +as is also the promotion of vigorous growth by a plentiful supply of +water to the roots of the plants; in fact, starvation and a dry, hot air +will soon bring an attack of Thrips. Generally speaking, the best remedy +is fumigation with tobacco. Or tobacco water and a solution of soft +soap, together or separately, if carefully applied, speedily make an end +of this troublesome pest. A special preparation may be made as follows: +Take six pounds of soft soap, and dissolve in twelve gallons <a name="Page_428" id="Page_428"></a>of water, +add half a gallon of strong tobacco water, and dip the plants in the +mixture. Before they become dry, dip again in pure rainwater to remove +the mixture. If too large to dip, apply the mixture with the syringe, +and in the course of a quarter of an hour or so syringe with pure +rainwater. Our illustration shows the Thrips in the larval and winged +state, natural size and greatly magnified.</p> + +<p><b>Ants.</b>—These extremely interesting insects are frequently troublesome +in gardens, and in the spring of the year the small red species mars the +appearance of lawns by throwing up numerous heaps of fine soil. It is +easy to destroy them by dropping a mixture of Paris Green and sugar near +their runs. But as Paris Green is a poison, animal life must be +considered. We recommend a simple remedy which entails no danger, but it +must be followed up persistently. Purchase a few common sponges, as +large as a man’s fist. Dissolve one pound of Demerara sugar in two +quarts of warm water. Immerse the sponges, wring out nearly all the +liquid, and place them near the ant runs. Twice daily throw the sponges +into hot water, and repeat the process until the ants are cleared. Nests +located under walls can be destroyed by boiling water.</p> + +<p><b>Caterpillars</b> cannot often be treated in a wholesale way without injury +to the plant. Hence it is usual to rely on hand-picking, and, tedious as +this may be, a little perseverance will accomplish wonders. We have seen +a fruit garden, literally hideous with clusters of Caterpillars in +spring, completely cleared by a few days’ steady work, costing but a +trifle, and only needing to be conducted so that in removing the vermin +there should be no harm done to the crops. In the same way the +Gooseberry grub should be disposed of. Precautions cannot be taken +against Caterpillars, but the careful cultivator will in good time look +for patches of eggs and clusters of young Caterpillars on the under +sides of leaves, and will carefully nip off the leaves on which the +colonies are feeding, and make an end of them. This enemy cannot be +raked in rank and file, but must be taken in detail, as in guerilla +warfare.</p> + +<p><b>Earwigs</b> are the dread of the florist, for they spoil his best Dahlias +and Hollyhocks, and are too partial to Chrysanthemums. They are readily +trapped, as they like to go up to a high, dry, dark retreat; hence a bit +of dry moss in a small flower-pot, inverted on a stake, will entice them +into your hands; and if you are determined <a name="Page_429" id="Page_429"></a>to keep down Earwigs, this +way is sure, though, perhaps, not easy, because it must be followed up +morning and evening from the beginning of June onwards. The hollow stems +of the Bean make good traps, as indeed do hollow stems of any kind, for +Earwigs love to creep into close, dark shelters after their nocturnal +meal; and the cultivator who has resolved that he will not be eaten up +by them needs only to persevere, and he may depend on trapping every +Earwig within the boundaries. Unfortunately, they use their wings +freely, and so travel from the sluggard’s garden to find ‘fresh woods +and pastures new.’</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/015.jpg" width="450" height="473" alt="[Illustration: Earwig]" /> +<p class="caption">EARWIG<br /> +(with wings spread, magnified)</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Slugs</b> are serious plagues to the gardener, and they sometimes appear +in large numbers so suddenly as to suggest the idea that the little +Slugs have come down in showers. Young crops are especially liable to +injury from these vermin, and it is not easy, even in well-kept gardens, +to keep them down. Constant attention is necessary, particularly in wet +seasons. But here, as in the case of many other kinds of vermin, means +may be adopted that will accomplish the double purpose of destroying the +plague and benefiting the land; for lime, salt, soot, and nitrate of +soda are certain Slug-killers, and will usually pay for their employment +by their enrichment of the ground. The nice point always is to employ +them advantageously. It should further be borne in mind that a Slug +slightly touched by lime or salt has the power of throwing it off by +means of the slimy exudation with which the creature is endowed. But if +again quickly assailed in a similar manner death is certain to follow. +Land made ready for sowing may be pretty well cleared of Slugs by +broadcasting it with salt. Unfortunately, these destroyers are only +effective in fine weather. In rainy seasons, or when a crop is rising, +it is necessary to resort to trapping, and many kinds of vegetable +refuse make tempting baits for Slugs. Pieces of Orange peel, suitably +placed, are soon covered with the vermin, especially in the winter +during intervals of frost. Cabbage leaves, sliced Turnips and Potatoes, +or almost any waste vegetable may be used. The traps should be scattered +about at dusk, and be gathered up in the morning, and buried in pits, or +destroyed by fire.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430"></a>Gas-lime is highly destructive to Slugs, but when first applied it is +poisonous to plant life. An excellent method of using it is to dress the +surface in autumn at the rate of from four to six cwt. per acre, and to +dig the ground deeply four weeks later.</p> + +<p>Rows of Peas are easily protected by a covering of barley sweepings, or +by charcoal broken very small and flavoured with paraffin. Slaked lime, +carefully used, is also employed with satisfactory results.</p> + +<p><b>Snails.</b>—In their methods of attacking garden vegetation, and in the +extent of damage they cause, Snails may be placed in the same category +as Slugs. During the day the Snail usually remains in hiding, emerging +from rockeries and creeper-covered walls in the evening or after a +shower of rain. They may be trapped by one of the methods suggested for +Slugs, and preference should be given to the use of Cabbage leaves. It +will, however, be safer to protect young plants by giving heavy +dressings of lime or soot. Hand picking is the surest means of dealing +with them, and in the winter months large numbers may be collected from +among box edgings, the base of ivy-covered walls and similar shelters. +Birds, especially thrushes, show a marked partiality for Snails.</p> + +<p><b>Wasps</b> are a terrible scourge in some gardens. They spoil a large +quantity of fruit, and jeopardise the remainder by forcing the harvest +before the crops are ready for gathering. When the localities of the +Wasps’ nests are known, it is a simple task to dispose of them. +Turpentine and gunpowder were formerly in vogue, especially among the +younger members of the community, to whom a spice of danger is always an +attractive element in the fun. But these are clumsy methods of +destruction and will not compare with the far easier remedy of poisoning +the colonies by means of cyanide of potassium. Dissolve one ounce of the +drug in a quarter of a pint of water. This will be sufficient to destroy +several nests, but it is a deadly poison, and must be kept in a place of +safety. Soak a piece of rag in the fluid, and lay it over the entrance +to the nest. There is no occasion to run away; not a Wasp will venture +out, and those which return from foraging will not lose their tempers +and find yours, but at each successive attempt to enter their home they +will become feebler, until they fall near or beneath the drugged rag. +After an hour or two the nest may be dug out, when every insect, +including queen and pupæ, will be found dead.</p> + +<p>If the colonies lie beyond your frontier, or their positions cannot <a name="Page_431" id="Page_431"></a>be +ascertained, the enemy must be disposed of by stratagem and in detail. +One of the best modes of trapping them is to put some injured fruit +beneath one of the trees, and over it a hand-light raised about three +inches above the ground by stones or pieces of wood placed at the four +corners. This light must have a rather large hole at the top. Upon it +should rest another light from which egress is prevented, except through +the apex of the lower light. After the Wasps have visited the fruit, +they will rise into the first light, and gradually find their way +through the opening into the one above, from which not one insect in a +hundred will escape. In a trap of this kind we have seen an enormous +number of Wasps and Hornets which had been lured to death within a few +hours.</p> + +<p>Another simple and effective method of destroying these pests is to pour +a small quantity of ale mixed with sugar into glass jars and suspend +them from branches of Pear or Plum trees. The vessels must be emptied +every few days and the liquid renewed.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/016.jpg" width="350" height="122" alt="[Illustration: Wireworm]" /> +<p class="caption">WIREWORM<br /> +(natural size and magnified)</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Wireworm</b> is the most persistent and destructive of all the ground +vermin. There are fully a dozen species of beetles the larvæ of which +are known as ‘Wireworms,’ and of these the ‘Spring-Jacks,’ +‘Click-Beetles,’ and ‘Blacksmiths’—<i>Elater obscurus, E. lineatus</i>, and +<i>E. ruficaudis</i>—are the most prevalent. The female beetle deposits her +eggs in the earth in the height of the summer, and in due time the worms +emerge and commence their depredations. These worms have a tenure of +three to five years in their subterranean homes, during which time they +feed voraciously, and are not very particular as to what they eat. Their +muscular power renders them expert in burrowing, and they are well +protected by their horny jackets. When their term of feeding is +completed, they descend to a considerable depth and change into the +chrysalis state, from which they come forth as jumping beetles in the +course of July and August, a certain proportion remaining in the ground +to complete their final change in spring. Their power of destruction is +then at an end. They resort to flowers, lead a merry life for a short +time, and when they pass away leave plenty of eggs to continue the race +of Wireworms.</p> + +<p>For practical purposes the Wireworm may be regarded as inhabiting every +kind of soil and consuming every kind of crop. The crops <a name="Page_432" id="Page_432"></a>it is most +partial to are Grass, Potatoes, Turnips, and the juicy stems of all +kinds of cereals. The larvæ may be trapped by burying in the ground +pieces of Potato, or better still thick slices of Beet root; the spots +to be marked, and the traps examined every few days, when the Wireworms +can be destroyed. Superphosphate sown along the drills with seed has +saved spring-sown crops from destruction; and Vaporite, a proprietary +article, has also been used with marked success. The latter gives off a +gas smelling of naphthalene which kills the Wireworms. Soot is a +well-known remedy, and by its use the crops are also benefited.</p> + +<p><b>Woodlice</b> are very destructive but easily caught, and they may be +completely eradicated by perseverance. When a frame or pit is infested, +they can be destroyed wholesale by pouring boiling water down next the +brickwork or the woodwork in the middle of the day. If this procedure +does not make a clearance, recourse must be had to trapping. In common +with Earwigs, they love dryness, darkness, and a snug retreat; but while +a mere home suffices for Earwigs, a home with food is demanded by +Woodlice. Take a thumb pot, quite dry and clean. In it place a fresh-cut +slice of Potato or Apple, fill up with dry moss, and turn the whole +thing over on a bed in a frame or pit. Thus you have devised a Woodlouse +trap, and next morning you may knock the vermin out of it into a vessel +full of hot water, or adopt any other mode of killing that may be +convenient. Fifty traps may be prepared in a hundred minutes; and those +who are determined to get rid of Woodlice may soon make an end of them.</p> + +<p><b>Rats and Mice</b>.—Traps are efficient while they are new, and almost any +reasonably good contrivance will answer for a time, but will fail at +last, or at least for a season. To keep down Rats and Mice effectually +there must be invented a succession of new modes of action, for these +creatures—Rats especially—are so clever that they soon see through our +devices, which then fail of effect. Generally speaking, two rules may be +prescribed. In the first place it is imprudent to fill up their holes or +stop their runs; let them have their way. If you stop them, they will +make new thoroughfares, to the further injury of the foundation; and, +besides, when you are acquainted with their runs, you know where to put +traps and poison for the vermin. As to the best poison, there is nothing +so effectual as arsenic; but it should be employed with great care, and +before it <a name="Page_433" id="Page_433"></a>is brought on the premises the question of safe storage must +be considered. A fat bloater split down and well rubbed with common +white arsenic will kill a score of Rats, provided only that they will +eat it. Cut it into four parts, and place these in or near their runs, +and cover with tiles or boards to prevent dogs and cats obtaining them. +If this fails, try bread and butter dressed with oil of rhodium and +phosphorus. The oil of rhodium seems to possess an irresistible +attraction for these vermin. When dry food is preferred, there is +nothing so good as oatmeal; and it is a golden rule to feed the Rats for +a few days with pure oatmeal, and then to mix about a fourth part of +arsenic with it. Several proprietary articles are offered for the +destruction of Rats. Before resorting to these means of annihilating +vermin it is necessary to take steps to prevent the bodies from proving +a nuisance after death. A good fox-terrier will keep a large garden free +from Rats and Mice.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434"></a> +<a name="THE_FUNGUS_PESTS_OF_CERTAIN_GARDEN_PLANTS" id="THE_FUNGUS_PESTS_OF_CERTAIN_GARDEN_PLANTS"></a> +THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN GARDEN PLANTS</h2> + +<p>Many of our garden plants are liable to the attacks of fungi. Cures are +in most instances unknown, but in some cases preventives—which are +better—have been adopted with partial or entire success. Plants raised +from robust stocks, grown in suitable soil and under favourable +conditions, are known to be less liable to disease than seedlings from +feeble parents, or those which have been rendered weakly by deficiencies +in the soil or faulty cultivation. Whether weakness is hereditary, or is +attributable to a bad system, the fact remains that disease generally +begins with unhealthy specimens, and these form centres of contamination +from which the mischief spreads. It is, therefore, important that seed +from healthy stocks should be sown, and that a vigorous constitution +should be developed by good cultivation.</p> + +<p><b>Anbury, Club, or Finger-and-toe</b>.—The disease known by these various +names is common in the roots of cultivated cruciferous plants such as +Cabbages, Kohl Rabi, Radishes, Swedes, Turnips, &c., and also in many +cruciferous weeds, including Charlock and Shepherd’s Purse. The cause of +this disease is an extremely minute fungus, which may lie dormant in the +soil for several years for want of a comfortable home, and when a +cruciferous plant becomes available the fungus fastens on the fine +roots, multiplies rapidly in the tissues, and produces malformation and +decay. After the disease has made some progress insect agency frequently +augments the mischief, so that on cutting open a large decaying root it +is not unusual to find the interior packed with millipedes, weevils, +wireworms, and other ground vermin.</p> + +<p>Unlike the Potato disease, which spreads from plant to plant through the +atmosphere, the fungus of Finger-and-toe infects the <a name="Page_435" id="Page_435"></a>ground, and from +the first spot attacked the disease spreads rapidly in all directions +and in various ways. It may be carried by the soil adhering to +implements or the boots of labourers. And each patch becomes a new +centre of infection which is spread by digging or raking. Every scrap of +infected soil, or of diseased fibre which may be added to the +manure-heap, distributes the virus over a wider area, so that +Finger-and-toe may suddenly appear in parts of the garden which have +hitherto been free from this troublesome pest. A very simple experiment +will prove the certainty and ease with which the spores may be +introduced to fresh land. Macerate the tissue of old Finger-and-toe in +water; use this on young isolated plants of Cabbage or Turnip and in a +short time the plants will be infected.</p> + +<p>The fungus which produces Finger-and-toe is known as <i>Plasmodiophora +brassicæ</i>, and it belongs to the <i>Myxomycetes</i>, or ‘slime-fungi,’ which, +as a rule, live upon decaying vegetable material. The protoplasm of the +fungus ramifies among and within the tissues of the roots of attacked +plants, and eventually produces an amazing number of spores so small +that more than thirty millions would be required to cover a superficial +inch. A microscope of great power is necessary to reveal them to human +vision.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/017.jpg" width="400" height="435" alt="[Illustration: Fungus of Finger-and-Toe Disease]" /> +<p class="caption">FUNGUS OF FINGER-AND-TOE DISEASE<br /> +<i>Plasmodiophora brassicæ</i></p> +</div> + +<p>The spores are capable of resting in a state of vitality for a long +time, and can easily withstand the frosts of winter. The illustration +shows at A the fungus in its protoplasmic condition, and at B its +ultimate sporiferous or ‘seed’-producing stage, after the protoplasm has +changed to a mass of minute spores (enlarged five hundred and twenty +diameters). When a spore in due course germinates, its protoplasmic +contents escape through a small aperture in its wall and begin moving +about of their own accord in a slow writhing manner. The movement is so +much like that of the microscopic animal organism found in ponds, and +called <i>Amœba</i>, that this tiny mass of moving protoplasm is called +<i>Myxamœba</i>, to denote that it is an amœba-like form produced by one of +the<a name="Page_436" id="Page_436"></a> <i>Myxomycetes</i>. Each myxamœba is drawn out at one spot into a fine +delicate tail or cilium, as at C, D, E, and is capable of a creeping +motion in moisture. When quite free from the spores, transparent +expansions or limbs extend from the bodies of the myxamœbæ, as at F, G, +and when these organisms, after existing in the soil for a longer or +shorter time, reach the roots of cruciferous plants, which they +apparently enter through the root-hairs, they again assume the +protoplasmic condition shown at A, and live within the cells, at the +expense of the nurse-plant. Other cruciferous plants are less seriously +damaged by the pest than are Turnips and Cabbages; but it is evident +that if diseased Charlock is near Turnips, the latter are very likely to +fall a prey to the disease. We advise the sowing of the best seeds, the +eradication of cruciferous weeds, and the destruction by fire of all +decaying Finger-and-toe material, for it is in this material that the +spores of the disease rest ready for continuing the disease in the +following season. It is also desirable that cruciferous plants should +not be continuously grown in the same quarter—in other words, it would +be prudent after an attack of Anbury not to repeat a cruciferous crop on +the same ground, but to follow on with a crop of some other class.</p> + +<p>Numerous experiments have shown that slaked lime can be relied on to +destroy the spores of Finger-and-toe in infested land. An application of +from fourteen to twenty-eight pounds per pole may suffice in the case of +light soils, but fifty-six pounds per pole will not be too much on heavy +land, and the dressing should be given either six or eighteen months +before a Cabbage or Turnip crop is sown; the longer period is the more +certain in its effect. Preference should be given to stone or rock lime +over chalk lime. The former is much more powerful and efficient. It may +be necessary to repeat the dressing twelve months after the first +application. As regards the occurrence of Anbury in seed-beds, frequent +transplantation is a very effectual mode of stopping its progress, for +the little galls can be pinched off by the workman, and burned as he +proceeds; and the plant, being invigorated by change of soil, will soon +grow away from the affection. In transplanting Cabbages it is a good +plan to discard and burn such plants as are obviously affected with +Anbury. It is worthy of remark that in market-gardens this disease is by +no means so prevalent as to interfere with the routine of cultivation, +although the Cabbages, Broccoli, and Cauliflowers grown in these grounds +are, under other circumstances, especially liable to attack. By ‘other +circumstances’ we mean that market-gardens are generally kept <a name="Page_437" id="Page_437"></a>under +high cultivation, the land being perpetually turned and heavily manured; +and these measures appear to be a preventive of Anbury, while they +result in heavy crops. But on land less energetically tilled Anbury may +prevail to such an extent as to interfere seriously with the order of +cropping. Another very important mode of keeping down the pest consists +in burning instead of burying the stumps and all other refuse of the +crop that cannot be turned to account.</p> + +<p>Confusion may be prevented if we point out that Club-root, Anbury, or +Finger-and-toe—whichever name may be used—is quite distinct from an +apparently similar malformation of the root which is sometimes induced +by certain characteristics of soil, seed, or manure, and is in fact a +case of reversion to the original wild type. Instead of a shapely, solid +Turnip, the bulb is divided into a number of coarse, worthless +tap-roots, caused by either poverty of the soil, careless cultivation, +or a degenerated stock of seed. Those who save their own seed +continuously for years are almost certain to become well acquainted with +this malady. They will find a change of seed necessary, and at the same +time an alteration in the routine of culture. A healthy, vigorous plant, +derived from a pure seed-stock, does not easily make Finger-and-toe, but +a sound root that stands for food and money.</p> + +<p>‘Grub.’—The wart-like growths formed upon the roots of Turnip and +Cabbage by the little hard beetle known as the Turnip-gall Weevil, +<i>Ceutorhynchus pleurostigma</i>, are also quite distinct from +Finger-and-toe. By cutting across a malformed root of Turnip or Cabbage +it is usually not difficult to determine the cause of the mischief. If +it is Finger-and-toe the root will be found filled with decaying matter; +in the case of Weevil attack the small legless maggots, commonly called +‘Grub,’ will be brought into view; and if it is merely an instance of +reversion the cut root will appear to be healthy.</p> + +<p><b>Potato Disease</b>.—The fungus which causes the Potato Disease, or +‘Blight’ as it is sometimes called, was formerly known as <i>Peronospora +infestans</i>; now it is recognised by scientific authorities as +<i>Phytophthora infestans</i>. The mark of its pestilent touch on the +foliage, and its destructive effect on the tubers, are unfortunately too +familiar in gardens and on farms. In dry seasons its energies are +restricted, but the scourge is never absent, and during wet summers the +parasite may do its deadly work on such a vast scale as to cause a +Potato famine. Moisture is a necessity of its existence, and <a name="Page_438" id="Page_438"></a>in rotting +haulm, decayed tubers, and damp soil the spores remain in a resting +condition until they are afforded an opportunity of multiplying with the +marvellous rapidity that invests the disease with its terrible power. A +series of six illustrations, five of which are highly magnified, will +enable the reader to follow the development of <i>Phytophthora +infestans</i>.<a href="#fn-1" name="fnref-1" id="fnref-1"><sup>[1]</sup></a></p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/018.jpg" width="500" height="315" alt="[Illustration: No. 1.]" /> +<p class="caption">No. 1.</p> +</div> + +<p>The illustration No. 1 shows a Potato leaf on a reduced scale disfigured +by the attack of the fungus. The <i>Phytophthora</i> is sending mycelial +threads (called hyphæ) in all directions through the substance of the +leaf, feeding on the protoplasm of the cells and destroying the +chlorophyll, or leaf-green, in those cells.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/019.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="[Illustration: No. 2. and 3.]" /> +<p class="caption">No. 2. & No. 3.</p> +</div> + +<p><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439"></a>No. 2 shows the fungal threads at work. In a diseased Potato plant +these threads, or mycelial hyphæ, make their way through the substance +of the leaves, and down the haulm into the tubers, from which they +consume the food stored there.</p> + +<p>No. 3 exhibits the various stages of germination of one of the conidia +of <i>Phytophthora infestans</i>: (<i>a</i>) the ripe conidium in water; (<i>b</i>) +protoplasmic contents breaking up into blocks, which separate and escape +(<i>c</i> and <i>d</i>) as minute kidney-shaped zoospores (<i>e</i>) each with two +cilia; (<i>f</i> and <i>g</i>) the zoospore coming to rest and losing its cilia; +(<i>h</i>, <i>i</i>, <i>j</i>, and <i>k</i>) successive stages of germination of the +zoospore.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/020.jpg" width="400" height="143" alt="[Illustration: No. 4.]" /> +<p class="caption">No. 4.</p> +</div> + +<p>No. 4 represents a longitudinal section of Potato-stalk with germinating +zoospore, the germ-tube of which has pierced the cell-wall, and is +growing inside the cell, as shown at +.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/021.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="[Illustration: No. 5. and 6.]" /> +<p class="caption">No. 5. & No. 6</p> +</div> + +<p>No. 5 affords a view of another piece of tissue of the stem of a Potato +plant, and shows the hyphæ of <i>Phytophthora infestans</i> running <a name="Page_440" id="Page_440"></a>in the +cell-walls; (<i>a</i>) nucleus of a cell; the other contents shown are +crystals and chlorophyll corpuscles.</p> + +<p>No. 6 is a section of a Potato tuber: A, the cell-walls; B, the starch +grains; C, the mycelial hyphæ.</p> + +<p>Spraying Potato plants twice or thrice with Bordeaux mixture has proved +effective in warding off the attack of <i>Phytophthora infestans</i>, and the +practice is now freely adopted, especially in humid districts. The first +application should be given towards the end of June or early in July, +immediately the haulm is sufficiently developed. The Bordeaux mixture is +made in the proportion of four pounds of pure copper sulphate and two +pounds of quicklime to forty gallons of water. The foregoing quantities +will give what is known as the <i>one per cent.</i> mixture. For the <i>two per +cent.</i> mixture the quantities of copper sulphate and quicklime must be +doubled, but the amount of water should remain at forty gallons. In its +effect on the fungus, however, little difference is to be found between +the two solutions. The copper sulphate is stirred into a few gallons of +hot water placed in a wooden tub or earthenware vessel. When quite +dissolved, add twenty or thirty gallons of cold water. The lime, which +must be freshly burnt quicklime, is then slaked in another vessel and +thoroughly stirred with two or three gallons of water until it is of the +consistency of thin cream. As soon as the liquid is quite cold, filter +it through coarse sacking into the copper sulphate solution and add +water to make a total of forty gallons. To be effective, Bordeaux +mixture must be applied in the form of a fine spray, and not with a +coarse-holed syringe.</p> + +<p>The Burgundy mixture, the use of which is preferred by some, acts in a +very similar manner to the Bordeaux mixture, and is made in the same way +as the latter, except that washing soda (five pounds) is substituted for +quicklime.</p> + +<p>Those who leave Potatoes to rot in the ground because the crop is not +worth digging, or who bury diseased haulm and tubers in a shallow +trench, under the impression that it is a safe way of getting rid of +worthless vegetation, are simply storing <i>Phytophthora</i> for another +attack in the event of Potatoes being planted in the same land again. If +buried at all, it must be at a considerable depth, but the effectual +method is to destroy all Potato refuse by fire.</p> + + +<p><b>Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes</b> (<i>Synchytrium endobioticum</i>, +Percival).—This extremely infectious and destructive disease of the +Potato has been given a variety of names in different <a name="Page_441" id="Page_441"></a>parts of the +country, but it is now generally known as the Wart or Cauliflower +Disease, the latter term being attributable to the Cauliflower-like +appearance of the outgrowth of the fungus. This outgrowth first shows in +the eyes of the young Potato in the form of small wrinkled warts. These +multiply and combine, thus creating a dark spongy scab which eventually +decomposes. Where the disease is very rife it attacks haulm as well as +tubers, and a yellowish-green mass may sometimes be found just above or +just below the surface of the soil. As a rule, however, no outward +indication of its existence is to be seen in the crop during the early +stages of growth, but towards the end of the season the haulm of badly +diseased plants often retains a fresh green appearance when the foliage +of others, which are healthy or only slightly attacked, is dying off.</p> + +<p>Infection is perhaps most commonly spread by the planting of diseased +tubers. Another frequent means of dissemination is caused by consigning +infected haulm to the waste heap instead of to the fire. The spores may +also be introduced in manure from animals fed on diseased Potatoes in a +raw state, and they may even be carried from one plot to another on +garden implements or the boots of those who walk across infected ground. +Immediately any sign of the disease is observed it should be dealt with +promptly and in no uncertain manner. Every particle of the infected +material must be carefully collected and burned. Dig out the soil around +all diseased plants and burn this also. On infected land it is important +that some crop other than Potatoes be taken in the season following the +outbreak, and, if possible, such land should not be used for Potatoes +for at least five or six years. But where garden space is limited, a +contaminated plot may have to be requisitioned for Potatoes within two +or three years. In such cases it is an excellent plan to dust the sets +freely with sulphur at the time of planting and to repeat the +application before earthing up.</p> + +<p>Although for some years the unremitting labour of experts has been +devoted to the investigation of Wart Disease, and innumerable +experiments have been undertaken, no effectual remedy has yet been +discovered. It has been found, however, that certain Potatoes are +resistant to the disease, and by order of the Ministry of Agriculture +and Fisheries none but ‘immune’ varieties may be planted in districts +scheduled as infected areas. A notification of the existence of Wart +Disease must be made to the Ministry immediately it is observed.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442"></a><b>Leaf Spot of Celery.</b>—This disease, which is caused by a minute +fungus (<i>Septoria apii</i>, Chester), is capable of inflicting serious +damage to the Celery crop unless prompt measures are taken to +exterminate it. The first sign of its appearance is to be found in the +leaves in the form of small brown patches. These are, however, quite +distinct from the spots deficient of leaf-green due to the attack of the +Celery Fly larvæ, and on close examination may be recognised by the +presence of a number of very small black points. From the leaves the +fungus quickly spreads over the leaf-stalks and finally to the heart of +the plant, ending in its total collapse. So rapid is the multiplication +of the spores, especially in moist weather, that a few diseased plants +are capable of infecting a large plot within two or three weeks. +Immediately discoloration of a leaf is noticed the affected portion of +the plant should be picked off. If the stage of the disease is so far +advanced that the outer leaf-stalks have become decayed, the entire +plant should be removed and destroyed. It is of the utmost importance +that every particle of diseased material be consigned to the fire and +not to the waste heap. Spraying three or four times with Bordeaux +mixture at intervals of two or three weeks may be helpful in the case of +a light attack, but the safest course always is to remove and destroy +any plant on which the fungus is found. One of the most frequent means +of introducing Leaf Spot of Celery is through the use of infected seed, +and therefore only seed which has been treated for the destruction of +the fungus should be sown.</p> + + +<p><b>Lettuce Mildew.</b>—This fungus is named <i>Bremia lactucæ</i>, formerly known +as <i>Peronospora ganglioniformis</i>, and is sometimes of the most +destructive character. It covers Lettuce leaves with a fine white bloom, +which decomposes the leaves, and makes them adhere together in one +putrescent mass. It should be looked for in its earliest stages, and be +hand-picked and burned. Old Lettuce stumps should likewise be pulled and +burned, otherwise they may harbour the disease.</p> + + +<p><b>Onion Mildew</b> is caused by the fungus <i>Peronospora Schleideni</i>, which +is occasionally disastrous in its effects, more especially in cold, wet +seasons. It occurs at uncertain intervals of time with extraordinary +virulence, and then utterly destroys the crops. Autumn sowing is +considered a good preventive by many growers, as the disease is +frequently fatal to spring seedlings. In its early stages the <a name="Page_443" id="Page_443"></a>mildew +may be successfully dealt with by freely dusting the plants with flowers +of sulphur when wet with dew, or by the application of sulphide of +potassium in the proportion of one ounce to a gallon of water. Otherwise +all diseased material should be removed and burned.</p> + + +<p><b>Pea Disease.</b>—Although garden Peas often suffer badly from the attacks +of <i>Peronospora viciæ</i>, which is the cause of Pea Mould, yet the most +deadly foe to Peas, especially late Peas, is a fungus of a totally +different character. To such an extent does the Pea Blight sometimes +devastate the later Peas, particularly in dry summers, that the whole +crop is in some gardens completely annihilated. The name of the fungus +of the Pea Blight or Mildew is <i>Erysiphe Martii</i>. Its attack is often +made suddenly; the leaves then lose their natural green colour, and +become yellowish and densely coated with a fine white bloom; this bloom +becomes at length dusted over with innumerable minute black bodies, +which look, under a lens, like tiny spiders’-eggs in the web. These +little black bodies are filled with extremely small transparent vessels, +and each vessel contains from four to eight spores or seeds. Our +illustration shows this <i>Erysiphe</i> enlarged one hundred diameters, with +two of the vessels containing the spores removed from the globular spots +and further enlarged. The only safe way of dealing with infested Pea +plants is to burn them. Many other species of fungi belonging to the +same genus attack fruit trees, vegetables, and garden flowers. It is, +however, unnecessary to illustrate them, as they more or less resemble +the fungus of Pea Blight. They all arise from an <i>Oïdium</i> condition, +similar to the <i>Oïdium</i> or Mildew of the Vine, and it is in this +condition alone, as in the case of the Vine, that they can be reached by +any fungicide.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/022.jpg" width="400" height="250" alt="[Illustration: Fungus of Pea]" /> +<p class="caption">FUNGUS OF PEA MILDEW<br /> +<i>Erysiphe Martii</i></p> +</div> + +<p><b>Tomato Diseases.</b>—The Tomato, like its near relative, the Potato, is +subject to a number of destructive diseases which spread rapidly if +allowed to become established. The most serious of these epidemics are +found among crops cultivated under glass, where <a name="Page_444" id="Page_444"></a>the forcing treatment +which they often receive, and the soil and atmospheric conditions, +render the plants abnormally susceptible to the attacks of fungi and +insect pests. Perhaps the most virulent forms of disease with which the +Tomato-grower is troubled arise from the attacks of parasitic fungi and +bacteria, among which the following are most frequently met with:—</p> + +<p>SLEEPY DISEASE, or TOMATO WILT.—In its outward symptoms and effects +this disease somewhat resembles an attack of Root-knot Eelworm, but the +swellings are absent from the root. The plants for a time appear quite +vigorous and healthy, but when full-grown they suddenly wilt and die +within a few days. The malady is caused by the fungus <i>Fusarium +lycopersici</i>, which first invades the roots and ultimately eats its way +through the substance of the collar or stem near the surface of the +soil, in consequence of which the supply of water taken up by the roots +is cut off from the leaves above ground and the plant collapses. There +is no remedy for the Sleepy Disease of Tomato, and plants which bear +evidence of infection should be carefully dug up and burned.</p> + +<p>TOMATO ‘STRIPE.’—This disease of the Tomato is comparatively common, +and although the attacks are sometimes slight its ravages may be +disastrous when conditions are favourable for its development. The +presence of Tomato Stripe is usually first noticed about the time fruit +is forming. The stems of the diseased plants then exhibit dark spots and +elongated sunken stripes of a brown tint, and yellow patches, which turn +brown later, appear on the leaves. Brown pits or depressions develop on +the fruits and spoil their appearance. The disease has been traced to +the action of a bacterium which closely resembles, or is identical with, +that causing Stripe among Sweet Peas. This organism probably resides in +the soil, and the signs of its attack are often visible in young plants. +In severe cases the soil of the house should be removed and replaced +with fresh loam. But when only slight traces of the disease are +apparent, partial sterilisation of the soil by means of carbolic acid, +as recommended for Root-knot Eelworm on page 425, may be adopted. One of +the surest means of guarding against losses by Stripe disease, is to +promote robust healthy growth, and to avoid extreme forcing conditions, +particularly by the excessive use of nitrogenous manures. Where, +however, forcing manures may have been employed in too large a quantity, +an application of potash (in the form of kainit or <a name="Page_445" id="Page_445"></a>sulphate of potash) +and phosphatic fertilisers should be given to counteract the effect of +the nitrogen. Immediately any trace of the disease is found, remove the +affected part of the plant, if it is possible to do so without serious +injury, but otherwise the entire plant should be uprooted and destroyed +by fire. It should be remembered that the organism can be carried on the +fingers and on tools, and therefore knives with which affected plants +have been trimmed should be sterilised with lysol or some other +antiseptic solution before being used on healthy plants.</p> + +<p>TOMATO-LEAF RUST.—The leaves of the plant attacked by this disease +rapidly become covered with a dull brownish velvety mould, or fungus, +known as <i>Cladosporium fulvum</i>. From the mouldy spots and patches +thousands of spores are readily carried by a slight current of air to +the surrounding healthy crop, and unless prompt measures are taken to +check the pest the whole house is rapidly involved. Excessive +atmospheric moisture encourages the mould, and it is spread extensively +if diseased plants are sprayed with water in the presence of healthy +ones. Judicious management in air-giving, which is one of the +fundamental principles of successful Tomato culture, will do much to +prevent the attack of <i>Cladosporium fulvum</i>. Under regular examination +the presence of the disease will be revealed before considerable damage +can be inflicted, and when only a few leaves are affected, carefully +remove and consign them to the fire. Spraying with the Bordeaux mixture +at half the usual strength is recommended when the disease is first +noticed. When the plants are bearing flowers or fruit, fungicides +containing copper must not be used, but a solution of liver of sulphur, +one ounce dissolved in six gallons of water, employed instead.</p> + +<p>ROOT-KNOT EELWORM.—A dangerous insect pest which frequently attacks the +Tomato, in common with the Cucumber and Melon, is the Root-knot Eelworm +(<i>Heterodera radicicola</i>). The root on which the swollen pea-like knots +develop do not carry on their ordinary functions, and the leaves droop, +the stem becomes limp, and the whole plant soon collapses and dies if +the trouble is severe. The treatment suggested on page 425 should be +adopted.</p> + +<p>Sometimes the outdoor Tomato crop is attacked by <i>Phytophthora +infestans</i>, the fungus responsible for the Potato Disease: Bordeaux +mixture should be used to check it.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446"></a>Directions for preparing the Bordeaux mixture are given on page 440.</p> + +<p>Another useful preparation which checks many fungus diseases may be made +by dissolving one ounce of potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur) in +three or four gallons of water, to which should be added an ounce or two +of soft soap. The last named greatly assists in the complete and uniform +wetting of all parts of the foliage.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447"></a> +<a name="THE_FUNGUS_PESTS_OF_CERTAIN_FLOWERS" id="THE_FUNGUS_PESTS_OF_CERTAIN_FLOWERS"></a> +THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN FLOWERS</h2> + +<p><b>Cineraria and Senecio Disease.</b>—<i>Senecio pulcher</i>, soon after its +introduction into England, was attacked, and in some gardens completely +destroyed, by a fungus named <i>Puccinia glomerata</i>, or rather the <i>Uredo</i> +stage of this fungus with simple, not compound, spores. The fungus is +well known, being closely allied to that which causes the rust or mildew +of corn crops. It is very common on the wild species of Groundsel in +England, being especially frequent and virulent on the Ragwort +Groundsel, <i>Senecio Jacobea</i>, from August to October. The leaves of +infected plants are covered with rust-coloured dusty pustules, the +<i>Uredo</i> condition of the fungus, and known in this stage as <i>Uredo +senecionis</i>, sometimes termed <i>Trichobasis senecionis</i>. The fungus has a +<i>Puccinia</i> stage of growth very similar to that of the Hollyhock fungus, +<i>Puccinia malvacearum</i>.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/023.jpg" width="400" height="238" alt="[Illustration: Fungus of Senecio Disease]" /> +<p class="caption">FUNGUS OF SENECIO DISEASE<br /> +<i>Uredo senecionis</i></p> +</div> + +<p>At A is illustrated a fragment of a leaf of <i>Senecio pulcher</i>, natural +size, and covered with the orange-coloured fungus; at B a small part of +a <i>Uredo</i> pustule as seen bursting through the cuticle of the Senecio +leaf.</p> + +<p>No remedial measures for the extirpation of this fungus are known, but +as garden Senecios and Cinerarias are infected by diseased plants of +Wild Groundsel, it is desirable that plants of the latter (especially +when diseased) should be destroyed. Weeds in and <a name="Page_448" id="Page_448"></a>about gardens are a +common cause of disease in cultivated plants. It often happens that a +weed, being sturdy, is only slightly inconvenienced when attacked, +whilst a cultivated plant will speedily succumb if attacked by the same +fungus. This is the case in the <i>Sempervivum</i> disease. In this country +the common House Leek is the nurse-plant, and is seldom much injured; +but if the disease <i>Endophyllum sempervivi</i> gets among greenhouse +species, every plant may be utterly destroyed.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/024.jpg" width="311" height="550" alt="[Illustration: Fungi of Gladioli, Lilies, etc.]" /> +<p class="caption">FUNGI OF GLADIOLI, LILIES, ETC.<br /> +<i>Urocystis gladioli</i> and <i>Ovularia elliptica</i></p> +</div> + +<p><b>Gladiolus, Crocus, Narcissus</b>, and <b>Lily Diseases.</b>—In certain soils +and situations where the ground is heavy and the atmosphere inclined to +be humid the Gladiolus is very subject to a destructive fungoid disease. +This is especially the case during unusually wet summers. The disease +attacks the corm, and corrodes and decomposes the tissues, so that on +cutting open a corm the whole interior, or such parts as are diseased, +will be found permeated with a deep, foxy colour. It is believed by some +persons that one stage of this disease is identical with the disease +named ‘Tacon’ by the French, and in this country known as ‘Copper Web,’ +<i>Rhizoctonia crocorum</i>. This <i>Rhizoctonia</i> is a mere spawn or mycelium, +a mass of rusty-brown material like a thick coating of spider’s web of a +red tint. This parasite attacks the Crocus (especially <i>C. sativus</i>), +the Narcissus, Asparagus, Potato, and other plants. Immersed in the +softer and damper portions of the red substance of the corm may +frequently be found great numbers of large compound spores, as +illustrated at A (enlarged two hundred and fifty diameters). These +bodies belong to the fungus named <i>Urocystis gladioli</i>; but whether they +really belong to the spawn named <i>Rhizoctonia</i> there is no conclusive +evidence, as the spores <a name="Page_449" id="Page_449"></a>have never been seen on the threads or upon any +spawn. The spores are very ornamental objects, consisting of from three +to six compacted inner brown bodies, surrounded by an indefinite number +of transparent cells. At maturity these spores break up as at B, and are +the means of reproducing the fungus.</p> + +<p>The Colchicum is attacked by a closely allied but different species of +<i>Urocystis</i>—viz. <i>U. colchici</i>. The Ranunculaceæ are attacked by +another ally in <i>U. pompholygodes</i> and Rye is attacked by a third in <i>U. +occulta</i>. No method of cure has yet been published for this pest; it is, +however, desirable that only sound and good corms should be planted, for +if infected corms are placed in the ground it is one certain means of +propagating the disease. The bars shown across the illustration of this +disease are magnificent crystals, very common in Gladiolus corms.</p> + +<p>Lilies are very subject to a disease in early summer: the leaves get +spotted and damp, and rot off; the flower buds speedily follow, and +leave the bare stalk. The disease of Lilies is caused by a fungus +closely allied to the fungus of the Potato disease, and named <i>Ovularia +elliptica</i>, known also as <i>Botrytis elliptica</i> (see illustration C). The +spores are large, and produce zoospores, or spores with hair-like tails +(cilia), capable of swimming about in water or upon moist places. This +pest attacks a large number of species of <i>Lilium</i>, both before and +after flowering. <i>Hyacinthus candicans</i> and some Tulips suffer from a +very similar, if not the same, organism. This fungus has been described +as a true <i>Peronospora</i>. Bulbs are subject to many fungus growths as +<i>Volutella hyacinthorum</i>, <i>Didymium Sowerbei</i>, &c.; many fungi follow +the decay of the bulb, others undoubtedly produce or greatly accelerate +decay. No remedy is known, but we advise the purchase of the soundest +and best bulbs. Good drainage and sufficient air are indispensable. All +infected foliage and stems should be burned.</p> + + +<p><b>Disease of Hollyhocks and Malvaceous Plants.</b>—In some parts of England +the cultivation of the Hollyhock had at one time quite ceased owing to +the attacks of a microscopic fungus named <i>Puccinia malvacearum</i>. In +gardens and nurseries, where years ago Hollyhocks were one of the chief +ornaments of the place, it became impossible to grow a single plant. The +disease is not confined to the Hollyhock, for it attacks many malvaceous +plants, notably the Mallows of our hedgesides. We have seen plants of +the white variety of the Musk Mallow (<i>Malva moschata</i>) totally +destroyed by <a name="Page_450" id="Page_450"></a>this parasite. The home of the Hollyhock fungus is Chili, +whence the Potato fungus reached us. The Hollyhock fungus first attacked +the malvaceous plants of Australia, and then reached England in 1873 by +the continent of Europe. The best and cleanest seeds of the Hollyhock +should be purchased.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/025.jpg" width="415" height="450" alt="[Illustration: Fungus of Hollyhock]" /> +<p class="caption">FUNGUS OF HOLLYHOCK DISEASE<br /> +<i>Puccinia malvacearum</i></p> +</div> + +<p>A fragment of a Hollyhock leaf is illustrated at A, dotted with the +characteristic brown pustules; these pustules cover the stems as well as +the leaves. At B is shown the edge of a pustule enlarged one hundred +diameters and seen in section; to show the whole of a pustule in section +from six inches to a foot of space would be required. Bursting through +the skin of the plant may be seen a dense forest of threads, each thread +bearing a spore with a joint across the middle. One pustule alone will +produce thousands of these double spores. At C some of the threads and +spores are still further enlarged to two hundred diameters, and at D one +ripe spore is shown falling from the thread and breaking asunder—each +piece is a reproductive body or spore. When mature, these minute spores +or ‘seeds’ are carried in the air by millions. At E one of the compound +spores is enlarged to four hundred diameters. As this disease is seated +within the tissues of the plant, remedies are difficult of application, +and in many cases attempts at cure have failed. No doubt the fungus is +nursed by malvaceous weeds. Infected Hollyhock plants and allied weeds +should be destroyed by fire or by deep burying.</p> + + +<p><b>Poppy Disease.</b>—Garden Poppies are often attacked by a fungus pest +closely allied to the fungus of the Potato disease, and named +<i>Peronospora arborescens</i>. It grows sometimes in abundance on the common +Red Poppy of cornfields (<i>Papaver Rhoeas</i>), and it badly attacks <i>P. +somniferum</i> and all its garden varieties. The fungus grows within the +leaves, and emerges with a tree-like growth through the organs of +transpiration (the stomates) on the under side of the leaves.<a name="Page_451" id="Page_451"></a> Like the +fungus of the Potato disease, it speedily sets up decomposition, and +destroys the host-plant.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/026.jpg" width="400" height="330" alt="[Illustration: Fungus of Poppy]" /> +<p class="caption">FUNGUS OF POPPY DISEASE<br /> +<i>Peronospora arborescens</i></p> +</div> + +<p>At A is illustrated one of the stems of the Poppy <i>Peronospora</i> emerging +from the leaf, enlarged seventy-five diameters. The fungus of the Poppy +is very much more branched than that of the Potato, and every minute +branchlet carries a spore. To save confusion, a large number of spores +are omitted from the branchlets in the illustration, and the branches +growing from the stem both before and behind are for the same reason +left out. At B a tip of a single branch is shown further enlarged to +four hundred diameters. The spores in the Poppy fungus are unusually +large and numerous: an infected plant will throw off many millions of +such spores. All the putrefactive spawn of this fungus is inside the +host-plant; cure, therefore, is difficult. This disease, like every +other plant disease, is always at its worst in ill-kept places where red +field Poppies are abundant. Field Poppies are often sown with unclean +corn. As prevention is better than cure, all we can advise is, buy the +best and cleanest garden and field seeds, cultivate in the best way, and +look out for and burn, or deeply bury as soon as detected, all +disease-stricken plants, whether wild or cultivated. When diseased +plants of any sort are left to decay on the refuse-heap, it is the most +certain way of propagating a plant disease for the next year.</p> + + +<p><b>Diseases of Violets.</b>—Violets are subject to fungoid diseases, both in +spring and autumn. The disease of autumn is caused by the brown +<i>Puccinia violæ</i>, allied to the <i>P. graminis</i> of Corn and to the <i>P. +malvacearum</i> of Hollyhocks and various malvaceous plants. The <i>Puccinia</i> +of Violets has its yellowish or orange-coloured stage; it is then known +as <i>Trichobasis</i>, or <i>Uredo violarum</i>. In spring and early summer +Violets are often badly affected by a fungus named <i>Æcidium violæ</i>, +which is apparently identical, however, with <i>Puccinia violæ</i>. This +disease attacks leaves, stems, and sepals, and it is best examined on +the leaves. In this position it is seen to consist of a considerable +<a name="Page_452" id="Page_452"></a>number of minute yellow pustules, each pustule less in size than a +pin’s head, and all congregated into one flat circular mass of about a +quarter of an inch in diameter. This pest is very frequent on the Dog +Violet, but it is perhaps equally common on the Sweet Violets of our +gardens in early spring, and it not infrequently spreads to other +species of <i>Viola</i>. One of the most destructive pests of Violas is found +in <i>Æcidium depauperans</i>, so called because its effect is first to +starve and attenuate, and then to totally destroy, plants of <i>Viola +cornuta</i>. It is a close ally of <i>Ae. violæ</i>, but it differs in having +its minute cups or pustules irregularly distributed all over the green +parts of the host-plant instead of being congregated in circular +patches, as in <i>Ae. violæ</i>. Our illustration shows, at A, a small +portion of the stem of <i>Viola cornuta</i> attacked by <i>Æcidium +depauperans</i>. The minute pustules are seen (natural size) distributed +all over the stem, leaf-stalks, and ruined leaves; the effect of the +fungus growth is to decompose the tissues of the plant. At B, a +transverse section through the stem is illustrated and magnified twenty +diameters. The section cuts through several of the abscess-like +pustules, and it is seen how completely embedded they are in the flesh +of the plant. At C, a pustule is seen in section, enlarged sixty +diameters to show more clearly the innumerable spores, or ‘seeds,’ +disposed in necklace-like fashion, which are destined to reproduce the +pest in future seasons. Another disease of Violets in autumn is caused +by a fungus named <i>Urocystis violæ</i>. This fungus causes gouty swellings +to form on the stalks and principal veins. These swellings at length +burst, exhibit black patches, and discharge sooty spores. The fungoid +disease named <i>Phyllosticta violæ</i> is frequently common on Violet leaves +in June. In this the spots are whitish. No cure is known, and it is +always well to burn or deeply bury all infected leaves or plants.</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/027.jpg" width="400" height="353" alt="[Illustration: Violet Disease]" /> +<p class="caption">VIOLET DISEASE<br /> +<i>Æcidium depauperans</i></p> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453"></a> +<a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> + +<p class="noindent"> +Abronia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Abutilon, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Achimenes, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a><br /> +<br /> +Acidia heraclei, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a><br /> +<br /> +Aconite, Winter, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +Acroclinium, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Æcidium depauperans, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a><br /> +—violæ, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a><br /> +<br /> +Agapanthus, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +Agaricus campestris, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Allium, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a><br /> +—ascalonicum, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a><br /> +—Cepa, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br /> +—Porrum, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a><br /> +—sativum, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a><br /> +—Schoenoprasum, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Alonsoa, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Alpine Strawberry, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br /> +<br /> +Alstroemeria, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +Althæa rosea, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a><br /> +<br /> +Alyssum, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Amaryllis, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br /> +<br /> +American Blight, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a><br /> +—Cress, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +<br /> +Anbury, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br /> +<br /> +Anchusa, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Anemone, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a><br /> +<br /> +Angelica, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a><br /> +—Archangelica, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a><br /> +<br /> +Annuals, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a><br /> +—classified according to colour, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a><br /> +—Half-hardy, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a><br /> +—Hardy, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a><br /> +—Tender, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br /> +—under glass, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Annual Chrysanthemum, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Anthriscus Cerefolium, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Antirrhinum, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Ants, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br /> +<br /> +Aphis, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a><br /> +—Bean, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br /> +—Pea, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br /> +—rumicis, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br /> +<br /> +Apium graveolens, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a><br /> +<br /> +April work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a><br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br /> +<br /> +Aquilegia, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a><br /> +<br /> +Artemisia Absinthium, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +—Dracunculus, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +Artichoke, Chinese, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br /> +—Globe, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br /> +—Jerusalem, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br /> +<br /> +Artificial Manures, and their application to Garden Crops, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a><br /> +<br /> +Asparagus, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br /> +—Greenhouse Foliage varieties, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a><br /> +—officinalis, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a><br /> +<br /> +Asperula, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Aster, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +—sub-cæruleus, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Aubergine, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br /> +<br /> +Aubrietia, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +August work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br /> +<br /> +Auricula, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a><br /> +<br /> +Australian Oak, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a><br /> +<br /> +Autumn Broccoli, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Babiana, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br /> +<br /> +Balm, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Balsam, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a><br /> +—Sultan’s, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br /> +<br /> +Barbarea præcox, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +<br /> +Barbe de Capucin, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a><br /><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454"></a> +<br /> +Barberton or Transvaal Daisy, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a><br /> +<br /> +Bartonia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Basil, Bush, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +—Sweet, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Bastard Trenching, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a><br /> +<br /> +Bean Aphis, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br /> +<br /> +—Broad, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br /> +<br /> +—Butter, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br /> +<br /> +—Climbing French, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a><br /> +<br /> +—Dwarf French <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a><br /> +<br /> +—Flageolets, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br /> +<br /> +—Haricot, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br /> +<br /> +—Runner, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br /> +<br /> +—Waxpod, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br /> +<br /> +Beet, Garden <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +—Silver, or Sea Kale, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br /> +<br /> +—Spinach, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +<br /> +Begonia, Fibrous-rooted, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br /> +<br /> +—Tuberous-rooted <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br /> +<br /> +Bell Flower, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a><br /> +<br /> +Bellis perennis, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a><br /> +<br /> +Belvidere, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a><br /> +<br /> +Bermuda Lily, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a><br /> +<br /> +Beta Cicla, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br /> +<br /> +—vulgaris, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br /> +<br /> +Biennials, Hardy, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br /> +<br /> +Bird Pepper, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a><br /> +<br /> +Black Bot, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br /> +<br /> +—Fly, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a><br /> +<br /> +—Scab of Potatoes, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +Blacksmiths, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br /> +<br /> +Blight, American. . .<a href='#Page_418'>418</a><br /> +<br /> +Blue Fly, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a><br /> +<br /> +—Squill, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a><br /> +<br /> +Borage, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Borago officinalis, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Bordeaux mixture, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +Border, Warm, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br /> +<br /> +Borecole, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +<br /> +Brassica oleracea acephala, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br /> +<br /> +—botrytis asparagoides, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br /> +—caulifiora, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a><br /> +—bullata, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a><br /> +—gemmifera, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a><br /> +—capitata, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br /> +—Caulo-rapa, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br /> +—costata, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br /> +—Rapa, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a><br /> +<br /> +Bremia lactucæ, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +Broad Bean, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br /> +<br /> +Broccoli, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>,<a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +Brompton Stock, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br /> +<br /> +Brussels Sprouts, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br /> +<br /> +Bug, Mealy, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a><br /> +<br /> +Bulbs, Flowering, Culture of, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br /> +<br /> +—growing in Moss-fibre, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a><br /> +<br /> +—in Store, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a><br /> +<br /> +Burgundy mixture, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +Bush Basil, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Butter Bean, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br /> +<br /> +Butterfly Flower, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Cabbage, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +—Flea, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a><br /> +<br /> +—Lettuce, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br /> +<br /> +—Portugal, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br /> +<br /> +—Red, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br /> +<br /> +—Root Fly, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br /> +<br /> +—Savoy, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br /> +<br /> +Cacalia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Calandrinia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Calceolaria, Herbaceous, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br /> +<br /> +—Shrubby, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a><br /> +<br /> +Calendula, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +—officinalis, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Callistephus sinensis, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a><br /> +<br /> +Campanula, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br /> +<br /> +—Rapunculus, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Canary Creeper, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br /> +<br /> +Candytuft, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Canna, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br /> +<br /> +Canterbury Bell, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a><br /> +<br /> +Cape Primrose, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a><br /> +<br /> +Capsicum, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br /> +<br /> +—annuum, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a><br /> +<br /> +—baccatum, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a><br /> +<br /> +Cardoon, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Carnation, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Carrot, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>,<a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +—Fly, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br /> +<br /> +—Moth, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br /> +<br /> +Carum Petroselinum, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br /> +<br /> +Castor-oil Plant, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a><br /> +<br /> +Catchfly, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +Caterpillars, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br /><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455"></a> +<br /> +Cauliflower <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +Cayenne Pepper, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a><br /> +<br /> +Celeriac, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Celery <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br /> +—Fly, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br /> +—Leaf Spot of, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +Celosia cristata, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a><br /> +—plumosa, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a><br /> +<br /> +Centranthus, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Ceutorhynchus pleurostigma, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br /> +<br /> +Chards, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a><br /> +<br /> +Cheiranthus Allionii, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +—Cheiri, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a><br /> +<br /> +Chemistry of Garden Crops, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br /> +<br /> +Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Chervil, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br /> +—Curled, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a><br /> +<br /> +Chicory, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Chili, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a><br /> +<br /> +Chimney Campanula, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a><br /> +<br /> +Chinese Artichoke, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br /> +—Primrose, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a><br /> +—Sacred Lily, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a><br /> +<br /> +Chionodoxa, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Chives, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br /> +<br /> +Chrysanthemum, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Cichorium Endivia, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br /> +—Intybus, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a><br /> +<br /> +Cineraria, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +—Intermediate, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br /> +—stellata, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br /> +<br /> +Cladosporium fulvum, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br /> +<br /> +Clarkia, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Cleaning Old Pots, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a><br /> +<br /> +Clerodendron fallax, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a><br /> +<br /> +Click-Beetle, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br /> +<br /> +Climbing French Bean, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a><br /> +<br /> +Club, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br /> +<br /> +Cochlearia Armoracia, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br /> +<br /> +Cockscomb, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a><br /> +—Plumed, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a><br /> +<br /> +Coleus, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a><br /> +<br /> +Coleworts, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br /> +<br /> +Collinsia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Collomia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Columbine, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><br /> +<br /> +Common Thyme, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +Convallaria majalis, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br /> +<br /> +Convolvulus minor, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Coreopsis, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Corn Flag, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a><br /> +—Salad, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a><br /> +<br /> +Cornflower, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Cos Lettuce, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br /> +<br /> +Cosmea, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a><br /> +<br /> +Cosmos, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a><br /> +<br /> +Couve Tronchuda, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br /> +<br /> +Crambe maritima, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a><br /> +<br /> +Crane Fly, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br /> +<br /> +Cress, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br /> +—American, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +—Indian, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a><br /> +—Land, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +—Water, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br /> +<br /> +Crocus, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a><br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +Crops, Garden, Chemistry of, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br /> +—Rotation of, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a><br /> +<br /> +Crown Imperial, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a><br /> +<br /> +Cucumber, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a><br /> +—Pickling, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br /> +—Ridge, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a><br /> +—Root-knot Eelworm, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br /> +—Winter, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br /> +<br /> +Cucumis Melo, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a><br /> +—sativus, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a><br /> +<br /> +Cucurbita, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a><br /> +—Pepo ovifera, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a><br /> +<br /> +Culture of Flowering Bulbs, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br /> +—of Flowers from Seeds, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br /> +—of Vegetables, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a><br /> +<br /> +Curled Chervil, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a><br /> +<br /> +Cutting Flowers, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a><br /> +<br /> +Cyclamen, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +Cynara Cardunculus, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a><br /> +—Scolymus, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a><br /> +<br /> +Cynoglossum, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Dactylopius odonidum, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a><br /> +<br /> +Daddy Longlegs, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br /> +<br /> +Daffodils, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a><br /> +<br /> +Dahlia, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a>, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a><br /> +<br /> +Daisy, Barberton or Transvaal, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a><br /> +—Double, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br /> +—Orange, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a><br /> +—Ox-eye, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a><br /> +<br /> +Dandelion, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br /> +<br /> +Daucus Carota, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a><br /> +<br /> +Day Lily, Japanese, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a><br /> +<br /> +December work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a><br /><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456"></a> +<br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br /> +<br /> +Delphinium, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a><br /> +<br /> +Depressaria cicutella, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br /> +<br /> +Dianthus, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +—barbatus, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a><br /> +<br /> +—Caryophyllus fl. pl., <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a><br /> +<br /> +—plumarius, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a><br /> +<br /> +Digitalis, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Dimorphotheca, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Disease, Cineraria, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +<br /> +—Crocus, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +—Gladiolus, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +—Hollyhock, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a><br /> +<br /> +—Lily, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +—Narcissus, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +—Pea, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br /> +<br /> +—Poppy, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a><br /> +<br /> +—Potato, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br /> +<br /> +—Senecio, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +<br /> +—Tomato, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br /> +<br /> +—Violet, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a><br /> +<br /> +—Wart, of Potatoes, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a><br /> +<br /> +Dog’s-tooth Violet, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a><br /> +<br /> +Double Daisy, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br /> +<br /> +Drainage of Pots, <a href='#Page_358'>358</a><br /> +<br /> +Dwarf French Bean, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Earwigs, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br /> +<br /> +Easter Lily, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a><br /> +<br /> +Eelworm, Root-knot, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br /> +<br /> +Egg Plant, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br /> +<br /> +Elater lineatus, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br /> +<br /> +—obscurus, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br /> +<br /> +—ruficaudis, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br /> +<br /> +Endive, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br /> +<br /> +Erysimum, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Erysiphe Martii, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br /> +<br /> +Eschscholtzia, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Eutoca, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Faba vulgaris, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a><br /> +<br /> +Feather Hyacinth, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +February work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a><br /> +<br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br /> +<br /> +Fennel, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br /> +<br /> +Ferraria, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br /> +<br /> +Fibrous-rooted Begonia, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br /> +<br /> +Finger-and-toe, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br /> +<br /> +Finocchio, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Flageolets, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br /> +<br /> +Flea, Cabbage, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a><br /> +<br /> +Florence Fennel, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Flower of the West Wind, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a><br /> +<br /> +Flowering Bulbs, Culture of, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br /> +<br /> +Flowers all the Year Round, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a><br /> +<br /> +—from Seeds, Culture of, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br /> +<br /> +Fly, Black, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a><br /> +<br /> +—Blue, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a><br /> +<br /> +—Cabbage Root, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br /> +<br /> +—Carrot, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br /> +<br /> +—Celery, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br /> +<br /> +—Crane, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br /> +<br /> +—Green, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a><br /> +<br /> +—Onion, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a><br /> +<br /> +—Turnip, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a><br /> +<br /> +Fœniculum duke, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +—officinale, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Forced Strawberries, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a><br /> +<br /> +Forcing in January, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a><br /> +<br /> +Forget-me-not, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a><br /> +<br /> +Foxglove, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a><br /> +<br /> +Fragaria, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a><br /> +<br /> +Frame Cucumber, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a><br /> +<br /> +—Ground, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br /> +<br /> +Freesia, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a><br /> +<br /> +Fritillaria, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a><br /> +<br /> +Fuchsia, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a><br /> +<br /> +Fungicide, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a><br /> +<br /> +Fungus Pests of certain Flowers, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +<br /> +—of certain Garden Plants, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br /> +<br /> +Fusarium lycopersici, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Gaillardia, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Galega officinalis, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Garden Beet, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +—Crops, Chemistry of, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br /> +<br /> +—Pea, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +—Rubbish, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br /> +<br /> +—Vermin, Eradication of, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a><br /> +<br /> +Garlic, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a><br /> +<br /> +Gaura Lindheimeri, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Geranium, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br /> +<br /> +Gerbera, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br /> +<br /> +Gesnera, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a><br /> +<br /> +Geum, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Gilia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Gladiolus <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>O<a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457"></a> +<br /> +Globe Artichoke, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br /> +<br /> +Glory of the Snow, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a><br /> +<br /> +Gloxinia, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a><br /> +<br /> +Godetia, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Good King Henry, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Gourd, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br /> +<br /> +Grape Hyacinth, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +Green Fly, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a><br /> +<br /> +Grevillea robusta, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a><br /> +<br /> +‘Grub’, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br /> +<br /> +Gypsophila, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Half-hardy Annuals, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a><br /> +<br /> +Haltica (Phyllotreta) nemorum, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a><br /> +—oleracea, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a><br /> +<br /> +Hardy Annuals, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a><br /> +—Biennials, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br /> +—Perennials, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Haricot Bean, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br /> +<br /> +Hawkweed, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Helianthus annuus, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a><br /> +—tuberosus, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br /> +<br /> +Helichrysum, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pl., <a href='#Page_343'>343</a><br /> +<br /> +Herbaceous Calceolaria, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br /> +<br /> +Herbs, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br /> +<br /> +Heterodera radicicola, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br /> +<br /> +Heuchera, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Hibiscus, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Hippeastrum, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a><br /> +<br /> +Hollyhock, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a><br /> +<br /> +Horehound, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Horse-radish, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +Hot-bed, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br /> +<br /> +Humus, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a><br /> +<br /> +Hyacinth, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +—Feather, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +—Grape, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +—Italian, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +—Miniature, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +—Roman, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +Hyacinthus candicans, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +Hyssop, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br /> +<br /> +Hyssopus officinalis, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Iberis, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Iceland Poppy, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Impatiens, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a><br /> +—Balsamina, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a><br /> +<br /> +Indian Cress, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a><br /> +—Pink, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a><br /> +—Shot, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br /> +<br /> +Intermediate Cineraria, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br /> +—Stock, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +Introductory Remarks to Culture of Flowering Bulbs, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br /> +—of Flowers from Seeds, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br /> +—All the Year Round, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a><br /> +—of Vegetables, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a><br /> +—Pests of Garden Plants, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a><br /> +—to a Year’s Work in Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br /> +<br /> +Iris, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a><br /> +<br /> +Italian Hyacinth, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +Ixia, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Jacobea, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +January work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a><br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a><br /> +<br /> +Japan Pink, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a><br /> +<br /> +Japanese Day Lily, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a><br /> +<br /> +Jerusalem Artichoke, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br /> +<br /> +Jonquil, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a><br /> +<br /> +July work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br /> +<br /> +June work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a><br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Kale, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +—Sea Kale, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +Kaulfussia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Knol Kohl, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a><br /> +<br /> +Kochia trichophylla, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a><br /> +<br /> +Kohl Rabi, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Lachenalia, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +Lactuca sativa, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a><br /> +<br /> +Lamb’s Lettuce, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br /> +<br /> +Land Cress, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +<br /> +Larkspur, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Lathyrus odoratus, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a><br /><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458"></a> +Lavandula, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Lavatera, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a><br /> +<br /> +Lavender, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Layia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Leaf-mould, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a><br /> +<br /> +Leaf Rust of Tomato, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br /> +<br /> +—Spot of Celery, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +Leather-jacket, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br /> +<br /> +Lecanium hibernaculorum, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a><br /> +<br /> +Leek, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a><br /> +<br /> +—Bulbs, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a><br /> +<br /> +Lemon Thyme, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +Lepidium sativum, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +<br /> +Leptosiphon, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Leptosyne, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Lettuce, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +—Lamb’s, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br /> +<br /> +—Mildew, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +Leucojum, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +Lilies, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +Lilium auratum, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +—Harrisii, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a><br /> +<br /> +—lancifolium, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +Lily, Bermuda, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a><br /> +<br /> +—Chinese Sacred, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a><br /> +<br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +—Easter, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a><br /> +<br /> +—Japanese Day, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a><br /> +<br /> +—of the Valley, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a><br /> +<br /> +Lime, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a><br /> +<br /> +Limnanthes, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Linaria, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Linum, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Lobelia, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br /> +<br /> +Love-lies-bleeding, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Lupine, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a><br /> +<br /> +Lupinus, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Lycopersicum esculentum, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Maize, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br /> +<br /> +Mallow, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a><br /> +<br /> +Malope, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Manures, Artificial, and their application to Garden Crops, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a><br /> +<br /> +March work among-Flowers, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a><br /> +<br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a><br /> +<br /> +Marguerite, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a><br /> +<br /> +Marigold, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br /> +<br /> +—Pot, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a><br /> +<br /> +Marjoram, Pot, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +—Sweet Knotted, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Marrow, Vegetable, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a><br /> +<br /> +Marrubium vulgare, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Marvel of Peru, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br /> +<br /> +Mathiola, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +May work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a><br /> +<br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +<br /> +Mealy Bug, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a><br /> +<br /> +Melissa officinalis, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Melon, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br /> +<br /> +Melon-house, the, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br /> +<br /> +Mentha Pulegium, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a><br /> +<br /> +—viridis, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br /> +<br /> +Mercury, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Mice, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a><br /> +<br /> +Mignonette, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br /> +<br /> +Mildew, Lettuce, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +—Onion, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +Mimulus, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br /> +<br /> +—moschatus, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a><br /> +<br /> +Miniature Hyacinth, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +Mint, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br /> +<br /> +Mirabilis Jalapa, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a><br /> +<br /> +Monkey Flower, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a><br /> +<br /> +Montbretia, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a><br /> +<br /> +Moss-fibre, growing bulbs in, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a><br /> +<br /> +Mushroom, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br /> +<br /> +Musk, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a><br /> +<br /> +Mustard, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br /> +<br /> +Myosotis, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Nægelia, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a><br /> +<br /> +Narcissus, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a><br /> +<br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +—Tazetta, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a><br /> +<br /> +Nasturtium, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br /> +<br /> +—officinale, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +<br /> +Nemesia, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Nemophila, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +New Zealand Spinach, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br /> +<br /> +Nicotiana, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Nigella, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Nitrogenous manures, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a><br /> +<br /> +November work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br /> +<br /> +Oak, Australian, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a><br /> +<br /> +October work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a><br /> +<br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a><br /> +<br /> +Ocymum Basilicum, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459"></a> +<br /> +—minimum, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +Oenothera, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Onion, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a><br /> +<br /> +—Fly, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a><br /> +<br /> +—Grub, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br /> +<br /> +—Mildew, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +—Pickling, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a><br /> +<br /> +—Potato, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br /> +<br /> +—Salading, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br /> +<br /> +—Underground, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br /> +<br /> +Orache, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br /> +<br /> +Orange Daisy, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a><br /> +<br /> +Origanum Majorana, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +—Onites, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Ornithogalum, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a><br /> +<br /> +Ovularia elliptica, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +Oxalis, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a><br /> +<br /> +Ox-eye Daisy, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Pansy, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a><br /> +<br /> +Papaver, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Parsley, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br /> +<br /> +Parsnip, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Pastinaca sativa, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br /> +<br /> +Pea, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br /> +<br /> +—Siphon-Aphis, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br /> +<br /> +—Sweet, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a><br /> +<br /> +Peat for Pot Plants, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a><br /> +<br /> +Pelargonium, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br /> +<br /> +Pennyroyal, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a><br /> +<br /> +Pentstemon, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a><br /> +<br /> +Pepper, Bird, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a><br /> +<br /> +—Cayenne, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a><br /> +<br /> +Perennial Phlox, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a><br /> +<br /> +Perennials, Hardy, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Perilla nankinensis, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a><br /> +<br /> +Peronospora arborescens, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a><br /> +<br /> +—infestans, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br /> +<br /> +—Schleideni, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +—viciæ, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br /> +<br /> +Perpetual Spinach, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +<br /> +Pests of Garden Plants, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a><br /> +<br /> +—Fungus, of certain Flowers, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +<br /> +—of certain Garden Plants, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br /> +<br /> +Petunia, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a><br /> +<br /> +Phacelia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Phaseolus multiflorus, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a><br /> +<br /> +—vulgaris, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a><br /> +<br /> +Phlox Drummondii, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +—Perennial, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a><br /> +<br /> +Phorbia brassicæ, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br /> +<br /> +—cepetorum, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br /> +<br /> +Phosphatic manures, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a><br /> +<br /> +Phytophthora infestans, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br /> +<br /> +Pickling Cucumber, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br /> +<br /> +—Onion, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a><br /> +<br /> +Picotee, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br /> +<br /> +Pink, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br /> +<br /> +Pisum sativum, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a><br /> +<br /> +Plasmodiophora brassicæ, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br /> +<br /> +Platystemon, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Plumed Cockscomb, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a><br /> +<br /> +Polianthes tuberosa, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a><br /> +<br /> +Pollination of Melons, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Polyanthus, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br /> +<br /> +—Narcissus, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a><br /> +<br /> +Poppy, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a><br /> +<br /> +—Iceland, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +—Shirley, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Portugal Cabbage, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br /> +<br /> +Portulaca, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br /> +<br /> +—oleracea, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a><br /> +<br /> +Potash manures, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a><br /> +<br /> +Potato, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br /> +<br /> +—Onion, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br /> +<br /> +—spraying, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +—Wart Disease of, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +Pot Marigold, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a><br /> +<br /> +—Marjoram, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Pots, cleaning, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a><br /> +<br /> +—sizes of, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a><br /> +<br /> +Potting soil, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a><br /> +<br /> +Primrose, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br /> +<br /> +—Cape, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a><br /> +<br /> +—Chinese, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a><br /> +<br /> +Primula Auricula, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a><br /> +<br /> +—Half-hardy, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a><br /> +<br /> +—Hardy, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a><br /> +<br /> +—sinensis, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br /> +<br /> +—stellata, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a><br /> +<br /> +—(veris) elatior, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a><br /> +<br /> +—vulgaris, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a><br /> +<br /> +Prince’s Feather, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Psila rosæ, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br /> +<br /> +Puccinia malvacearum, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a><br /> +<br /> +Pumpkin, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br /> +<br /> +Purslane, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a><br /> +<br /> +Pyrethrum, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Radish, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br /><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460"></a> +Rampion, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a><br /> +<br /> +Ranunculus, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a><br /> +<br /> +Raphanus sativus, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a><br /> +<br /> +Rats, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a><br /> +<br /> +Red Cabbage, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br /> +<br /> +—Spider, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a><br /> +<br /> +Reseda odorata, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a><br /> +<br /> +Rheum hybridum, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a><br /> +<br /> +Rhubarb, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Ricinus, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a><br /> +<br /> +Ridge Cucumber, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a><br /> +<br /> +Roman Hyacinth, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br /> +<br /> +Root-knot Eelworm, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br /> +<br /> +Roots, Storing, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Rosemary, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Rosmarinus officinalis, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Rotation of Crops, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a><br /> +<br /> +Rubbish, Garden, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br /> +<br /> +Rudbeckia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Rue, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Rumex scutatus, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Runner Bean, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br /> +<br /> +Ruta graveolens, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Sacred Lily, Chinese, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a><br /> +<br /> +Sage, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Saintpaulia, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a><br /> +<br /> +Salad, Corn, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a><br /> +<br /> +Salads, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a><br /> +<br /> +Salpiglossis, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Salsify, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Salvia, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a><br /> +<br /> +Sanvitalia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Saponaria, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Satureia hortensis, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +—montana, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Savory, Summer, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +—Winter, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Savoy Cabbage, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br /> +<br /> +Saxifrage, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Scabious, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Scale, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a><br /> +<br /> +Schizanthus, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br /> +<br /> +Schizoneura lanigera, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a><br /> +<br /> +Scilla, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a><br /> +<br /> +Scorzonera, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br /> +<br /> +—hispanica, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a><br /> +<br /> +Sea Kale, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br /> +<br /> +—Beet, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br /> +<br /> +Sea Lavender, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br /> +<br /> +Seed Sowing in January, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a><br /> +<br /> +Senecio, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a><br /> +<br /> +—Disease, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +<br /> +September work among Flowers, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +—in the Vegetable Garden, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br /> +<br /> +Septoria apii, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br /> +<br /> +Shallot, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a><br /> +<br /> +Shrubby Calceolaria, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a><br /> +<br /> +Silene, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +Silver, or Sea Kale, Beet, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br /> +<br /> +Sinapis alba, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br /> +<br /> +—nigra, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br /> +<br /> +Siphonophora pisi, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br /> +<br /> +Sizes of Pots, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a><br /> +<br /> +Sleepy Disease of Tomato, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a><br /> +<br /> +Slugs, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a><br /> +<br /> +Snails, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br /> +<br /> +Snapdragon, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a><br /> +<br /> +Snowdrop, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a><br /> +<br /> +Snowflake, Spring, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a><br /> +<br /> +—Summer, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a><br /> +<br /> +Soil for Pot Plants, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a><br /> +<br /> +Solanum, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br /> +<br /> +—esculentum, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br /> +<br /> +—Melongena, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br /> +<br /> +—tuberosum, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Sorrel, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a><br /> +<br /> +Sparaxis, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a><br /> +<br /> +Sparrows, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a><br /> +<br /> +Spearmint, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br /> +<br /> +Spider, Red, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a><br /> +<br /> +Spinach, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a><br /> +<br /> +—Beet, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +<br /> +—Moth Grub, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a><br /> +<br /> +—New Zealand, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br /> +<br /> +—Perpetual, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +<br /> +Spinacia oleracea, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a><br /> +<br /> +Spirals, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br /> +<br /> +Spraying Potatoes, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +Spring Broccoli, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br /> +<br /> +—flowering Stock, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +—Flowers from Seeds, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a><br /> +<br /> +Spring-Jack, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br /> +<br /> +Spring Snowflake, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a><br /> +<br /> +Sprouting Broccoli, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br /> +<br /> +Sprouts, Brussels, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br /> +<br /> +Squill, Blue, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a><br /> +<br /> +Stachys tuberifera, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br /> +<br /> +Star of Bethlehem, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a><br /> +<br /> +—Cineraria, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br /> +<br /> +—Primula, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a><br /> +<br /> +—of the Veldt, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a><br /> +<br /><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461"></a> +Static, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br /> +<br /> +Stock, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a><br /> +<br /> +—Intermediate, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +—Spring-flowering, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br /> +<br /> +—Summer-flowering, or Ten-week, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a><br /> +<br /> +—Winter-flowering, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br /> +<br /> +—Virginian, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Stored Bulbs, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a><br /> +<br /> +Storing Roots, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +Strawberry, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br /> +<br /> +—Alpine, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br /> +<br /> +—Forced, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a><br /> +<br /> +Streptocarpus, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a><br /> +<br /> +—Wendlandii, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a><br /> +<br /> +‘Stripe’ of Tomato, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a><br /> +<br /> +Sugar Corn, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br /> +<br /> +Sultan’s Balsam, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br /> +<br /> +Sultan, Sweet, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Summer Broccoli, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br /> +<br /> +—Cypress, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a><br /> +<br /> +—flowering, or Ten-week Stock, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a><br /> +<br /> +—Savory, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +—Snowflake, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a><br /> +<br /> +—sown Vegetables for Autumn and Winter use, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br /> +<br /> +Sunflower, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a><br /> +<br /> +Swan River Daisy, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br /> +<br /> +Swede, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a><br /> +<br /> +Sweet Basil, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br /> +<br /> +—Herbs, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br /> +<br /> +—Knotted Marjoram, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +—Pea, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a><br /> +<br /> +—Sultan, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +—William, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a><br /> +<br /> +Synchytrium endobioticum, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Tagetes, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a><br /> +<br /> +Taraxacum officinale, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a><br /> +<br /> +Tarragon, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +Temperature of Greenhouses, <a href='#Page_358'>358</a><br /> +<br /> +Tender Annuals, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br /> +<br /> +Ten-week Stock, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a><br /> +<br /> +Tetragonia expansa, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br /> +<br /> +Tetranychus telarius, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a><br /> +<br /> +Thalictrum, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Thrips, <a href='#Page_427'>427</a><br /> +<br /> +Thyme, Common, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +—Lemon, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +—vulgaris, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +Tigridia, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br /> +<br /> +Tipula oleracea, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br /> +<br /> +Tobacco, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a><br /> +<br /> +Tomato, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br /> +<br /> +—Diseases, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br /> +<br /> +Torenia, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a><br /> +<br /> +Tragopogon porrifolius, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a><br /> +<br /> +Traps for Vermin, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a><br /> +<br /> +Trichobasis senecionis, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +<br /> +Triteleia uniflora, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a><br /> +<br /> +Tritonia, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a><br /> +<br /> +Tropæolum, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a><br /> +<br /> +—canariense, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br /> +<br /> +—majus, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a><br /> +<br /> +—nanum, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a><br /> +<br /> +—speciosum, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a><br /> +<br /> +—tuberosum, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a><br /> +<br /> +Tuberose, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a><br /> +<br /> +Tuberous-rooted Begonia, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br /> +<br /> +Tufted Pansy, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a><br /> +<br /> +Tulip, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a><br /> +<br /> +Turban Ranunculus, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a><br /> +<br /> +Turnip, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +—Fly or Flea, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a><br /> +<br /> +Turnip-gall Weevil, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br /> +<br /> +Turnip-rooted Celery, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Underground Onion, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br /> +<br /> +Uredo senecionis, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a><br /> +<br /> +Urocystis gladioli, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Valerianella olitoria, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br /> +<br /> +Vallota purpurea, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a><br /> +<br /> +Vegetable Garden, A Year’s Work in, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br /> +<br /> +—Rotation of Crops in, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a><br /> +<br /> +—Marrow, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a><br /> +<br /> +—Oyster, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br /> +<br /> +Vegetables, The Culture of, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a><br /> +<br /> +Ventilating Greenhouses and Frames, <a href='#Page_358'>358</a><br /> +<br /> +Venus’ Looking-glass, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +—Navel-wort, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +Verbascum, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +Verbena, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a><br /> +<br /> +Vermin, Garden, Eradication of, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a><br /> +<br /> +—Traps, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a><br /> +<br /><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462"></a> +Viola, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br /> +<br /> +—tricolor, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a><br /> +<br /> +Violet Diseases, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a><br /> +<br /> +—Dog’s-tooth, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a><br /> +<br /> +Virginian Stock, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Viscaria, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Wallflower, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a><br /> +<br /> +Warm Border, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br /> +<br /> +Wart Disease of Potatoes, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br /> +<br /> +Wasps, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br /> +<br /> +Water Cress, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br /> +<br /> +Watering Pot Plants, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a><br /> +<br /> +Waxpod Bean, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br /> +<br /> +Weeds, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br /> +<br /> +Weevil, Turnip-gall, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br /> +<br /> +Whitlavia, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br /> +<br /> +Wigandia, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a><br /> +<br /> +Windflower, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a><br /> +<br /> +Winter Aconite, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a><br /> +<br /> +—Broccoli, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br /> +<br /> +Winter Cucumber, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br /> +<br /> +—flowering Stock, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br /> +<br /> +—Greens, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br /> +<br /> +—Radish, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a><br /> +<br /> +—Savory, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Wireworm, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br /> +<br /> +Witloof, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a><br /> +<br /> +Woodlice, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a><br /> +<br /> +Woolly Aphis, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a><br /> +<br /> +Wormwood, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Xeranthemum, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Year’s Work in the Vegetable Garden, A, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Zea Mays, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a><br /> +<br /> +Zephyranthes Candida, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a><br /> +<br /> +Zinnia, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a> +</p> +<p><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463"></a>Permanent and Temporary Pastures.</p> + +<p>By MARTIN SUTTON, F.L.S.</p> + +<p><i>POPULAR EDITION</i>. In paper cover, price 1s.</p> + +<p>‘“PERMANENT AND TEMPORARY PASTURES.”—Mr Martin Sutton speaks with +authority on this absorbing subject, and his book should be in the hands +of every farmer who desires to make the most of his opportunities; the +information it affords is of the utmost practical advantage. Here will +be found ample instruction, the results of knowledge acquired by +experience and exhaustive experiment.’—ESTATES GAZETTE.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Lawns,</p> + +<p>Including Cricket Grounds, Putting Greens and Bowling Greens.</p> + +<p>By SUTTON & SONS, Reading.</p> + +<p><i>THIRTEENTH EDITION</i>. Price <i>2s. 6d.</i> net.</p> + +<p>Containing full particulars on preparing the ground, sowing seed, and +after-management. Illustrated with numerous reproductions from beautiful +photographs of Lawns, and including plans of Tennis Lawn and Croquet +Ground.</p> + +<p>May be obtained through all Booksellers, from the Publishers, SIMPKIN, +MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD., LONDON.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>The Book of the Links.</p> + +<p>By MARTIN H.F. SUTTON, F.L.S.</p> + +<p>Royal 8vo. Price 15s. net.</p> + +<p>The book indispensable, from all points of view, to those concerned in +the management of Golf Clubs.</p> + +<p>Illustrated with numerous excellent Photographs, and some striking +original Cartoons by Tom Wilkinson.</p> + +<p>SUTTON & SONS, READING,</p> + +<p>SEEDSMEN TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING.</p> + + +<p><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464"></a>WORKS ISSUED BY SUTTON & SONS.</p> + + +<p>Sutton’s Amateur’s Guide in Horticulture and General Garden Seed +Catalogue.</p> + +<p>Containing Descriptive Lists of the finest strains of Vegetables, and +the most beautiful Flowers for the greenhouse, conservatory and garden.</p> + +<p>PUBLISHED ANNUALLY IN JANUARY.</p> + +<p>Sent Gratis to regular Customers.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Sutton’s Farmers’ Year-Book and Graziers’ Manual.</p> + +<p>Containing Information on Permanent and Temporary Pastures and Leys, +Lists of Natural Grasses and Clovers;</p> + +<p>Descriptions of Turnips, Mangolds, and other Farm Crops.</p> + +<p>Gratis and Post Free to Customers.</p> + +<p>PUBLISHED ANNUALLY IN FEBRUARY.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Sutton’s Bulbs.</p> + +<p>Containing Descriptive Lists of Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, Lilies and +other Flowering Bulbs.</p> + +<p>Beautifully Illustrated, and sent Free to Regular Customers for Bulbs.</p> + +<p>PUBLISHED ANNUALLY IN AUGUST.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Bulletins.</p> + +<p>No. 1. Brassica Cresses. ”2. Tuber-bearing Solanums. ”3. Experiments in +Crossing a Wild Pea from Palestine with Commercial Peas. ”4. Results +obtained by Crossing a Wild Pea from Palestine with Commercial Types and +Pisum sativum umbellatum. ”5. The Progress in Vegetable Cultivation +during Queen Victoria’s Reign. ”6. The Effects of Radio-active Ores and +Residues on Plant Life. (<i>First Series</i>.) ”7. The Effects of +Radio-active Ores and Residues on Plant Life. (<i>Second Series</i>.) ”8. +Experiments with Humogen in comparison with other Fertilisers. ”9. Do +Potatoes give rise to New and Distinct Varieties by Bud-Variation? ”10. +How Amateurs may secure three successive crops of Vegetables in twelve +months without the aid of glass houses or of heat. ”11. The +Electrification of Seeds by the Wolfryn Process.</p> + +<p>Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 9 and 10 by ARTHUR W. SUTTON, F.L.S., V.M.H.</p> + +<p>Nos. 6, 7, 8 and 11 by MARTIN H.F. SUTTON, F.L.S.</p> + +<p>Price <i>2s. 6d.</i> net each.</p> + +<p>SUTTON & SONS, READING,</p> + +<p>SEEDSMEN TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING.</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-1" id="fn-1"></a> <a href="#fnref-1">[1]</a> +For permission to reproduce the engravings numbered 1, 3, 4, and 5 from +Professor Marshall Ward’s ‘Diseases of Plants,’ we gladly acknowledge our +indebtedness to the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. Professor W. +Carruthers has kindly allowed us to use the illustrations numbered 2 and 6. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition, by Sutton and Sons + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS *** + +***** This file should be named 16232-h.htm or 16232-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/3/16232/ + +Produced by Paul Murray, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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