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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One
+
+Author: Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+Release Date: July 6, 2005 [EBook #16224]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net, from
+images generously made available by gallica (Bibliotheque
+nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR.
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE
+
+Shakespeare Press.
+
+[Illustration: T. F. DIBDIN, D.D.
+
+Engraved by James Thomson from the
+Original Painting by T. Phillips Esq. R.A.
+
+London. Published June 1829 by R. Jennings, Poultry.]
+
+
+
+
+A
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL
+Antiquarian
+AND
+PICTURESQUE TOUR
+IN
+FRANCE AND GERMANY.
+
+
+BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D.D.
+
+MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT.
+
+
+SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+VOLUME I.
+
+
+LONDON:
+PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR.
+1829.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE REVEREND JOHN LODGE, M.A.
+FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE, AND
+LIBRARIAN TO THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE.
+
+
+MY DEAR FRIEND,
+
+
+Most grateful it is to me, at all times, to bear in remembrance those
+pleasant discussions in which we were wont so frequently to indulge,
+relating to the LIBRARIES upon the Continent:--but more than ordinarily
+gratifying to me was _that_ moment, when you told me, that, on crossing the
+Rhine, you took the third volume of my Tour under your arm, and on reaching
+the Monasteries of Moelk and Goettwic, gave an off-hand translation to the
+venerable Benedictine Inmates of what I had recorded concerning their MSS.
+and Printed Books, and their hospitable reception of the Author. I
+studiously concealed from You, at the time, the whole of the gratification
+which that intelligence imparted; resolving however that, should this work
+be deemed worthy of a second edition, to dedicate that republication to
+YOURSELF. Accordingly, it now comes forth in its present form, much
+enhanced, in the estimation of its Author, by the respectability of the
+name prefixed to this Dedication; and wishing you many years enjoyment of
+the honourable public situation with which you have been recently, and so
+deservedly, invested, allow me to subscribe myself,
+
+
+Your affectionate
+and obliged Friend,
+
+T.F. DIBDIN.
+
+Wyndham Place,
+June 30, 1829.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+VOLUME I.
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+_Passage to Dieppe_
+
+LETTER II.
+
+DIEPPE. _Fisheries. Streets. Churches of St. Jacques and St. Remy. Divine
+Worship. Military Mass_
+
+LETTER III.
+
+_Village and Castle of Arques. Sabbath Amusements. Manners and Customs.
+Boulevards_
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+ROUEN. _Approach. Boulevards. Population. Street-Scenery_
+
+LETTER V.
+
+_Ecclesiastical Architecture. Cathedral. Monuments. Religious Ceremonies.
+The Abbey of St. Ouen. The Churches of St. Maclou, St. Vincent, St. Vivien,
+St. Gervais, and St. Paul_
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+_Halles de Commerce. Place de la Pucelle d'Orleans. (Jeanne d'Arc).
+Basso-Rilievo of the Champ de Drap d'Or. Palace and Courts of Justice_
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+ROUEN. _The Quays. Bridge of Boats. Rue du Bac. Rue de Robec. Eaux de Robec
+et d'Aubette. Mont Ste. Catherine. Hospices--Generale et d'Humanite_,
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+_Early Typography at Rouen. Modern Printers. Chap Books. Booksellers. Book
+Collectors_
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+_Departure from Rouen. St. George de Boscherville. Duclair. Marivaux. The
+Abbey of Jumieges. Arrival at Caudebec_,
+
+LETTER X.
+
+_Caudebec. Lillebonne. Bolbec. Tankarville. Montmorenci Castle. Havre de
+Grace_
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+_Havre de Grace. Honfleur. Journey to Caen_
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+CAEN. _Soil. Society. Education. A Duel. Old houses. The Abbey of St.
+Stephen. Church of St. Pierre de Darnetal. Abbe de la Sainte Trinite. Other
+Public Edifices_
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+CAEN. _Literary Society. Abbe de la Rue. Messrs. Pierre-Aime. Lair and
+Lamouroux. Medal of Malherbe. Booksellers. Memoir of the late M. Moysant,
+Public Librarian. Courts of Justice_
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+BAYEUX. _Cathedral. Ordination of Priests and Deacons. Crypt of the
+Cathedral_
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+BAYEUX. _Visit near St. Loup. M. Pluquet, Apothecary and Book-Vendor. Visit
+to the Bishop. The Chapter Library. Description of the Bayeux Tapestry.
+Trade and Manufacture_
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+_Bayeux to Coutances. St. Lo. The Cathedral of Coutances. Environs.
+Aqueduct. Market-Day. Public Library. Establishment for the Clergy_
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+_Journey to Granville. Granville. Ville Dieu. St. Sever. Town and Castle
+of_ VIRE
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+VIRE. _Bibliography. Monsieur Adam. Monsieur de la Renaudiere. Olivier
+Basselin. M. Seguin. The Public Library_
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+_Departure from Vire. Conde. Pont Ouilly. Arrival at_ FALAISE. _Hotel of
+the Grand Turc. Castle of Falaise. Bibliomaniacal Interview_
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+_Mons. Mouton. Church of Ste. Trinite, Comte de la Fresnaye. Guibray
+Church. Supposed head of William the Conqueror. M. Langevin, Historian of
+Falaise. Printing Offices_
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+_Journey to Paris. Dreux. Houdan. Versailles. Entrance into Paris_
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PLATES.
+
+
+VOL. I.
+
+Portrait of the Author
+Fille de Chambre, Caen
+Portrait of the Abbe de la Rue
+
+VOL. II.
+
+Anne of Brittany
+Medal of Louis XII
+Pisani
+Denon
+Comte de Brienne
+Stone Pulpit, Strasbourg Cathedral
+
+VOL. III.
+
+Fille de Chambre, Manheim
+Monastery of Saints Ulric and Afra
+Prater, Vienna
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF AUTOGRAPHS.
+                                                       Vol.     Page.
+
+Artaria, Dom. Manheim                                  iii.      470
+Barbier, Antoine Alexandre; Paris                       ii.      204
+Bartsch, Adam de; Vienna                               iii.      394
+Beyschlag, Recteur; Augsbourg                          iii.      104
+Brial, Dom; Paris                                       ii.      254
+Brunet, Libraire; Paris                                 ii.      235
+Bure, De, Freres; Paris                                 ii.      220
+Chateaugiron, Marquis de; Paris                          i.  xxxviii
+Dannecker; Stuttgart                                   iii.       54
+Denon; Paris                                            ii.      293
+Gaertner, Corbinian; Salzburg                          iii.      201
+Gail; Paris                                             ii.      259
+Hartenschneider, Udalricus; Chremsminster
+  Monastery                                            iii.      229
+Henri II.                                               ii.      151
+Hess, C.E.; Munich                                     iii.      165
+Lamouroux; Caen                                          i.      137
+Lancon, Durand de; Paris                                 i.  xxxviii
+Langevin; Falaise                                        i.      341
+Langles, L.; Paris                                      ii.      268
+Larenaudiere, De; Vire                                   i.      309
+Lebret, F.C.; Stuttgart                                iii.       56
+May, Jean Gottlob; Augsbourg                           iii.      104
+Millin, A.L.; Paris                                     ii.      264
+Pallas, Joachim; Moelk Monastery                        iii.      254
+Peignot, Gabriel; Dijon                                  i.    xxvii
+Poitiers, Diane de                                      ii.      151
+Renouard, Ant. Aug.; Paris                              ii.      227
+Schlichtegroll, Frederic; Munich                       iii.      161
+Schweighaeuser, Fils; Strasbourg                         ii.      426
+Van Praet; Paris                                        ii.      278
+Veesenmeyer, G.; Ulm                                   iii.       71
+Willemin; Paris                                         ii.      320
+Young,.T.; Vienna                                      iii.      390
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+If I had chosen to introduce myself to the greatest possible advantage to
+the reader, in this Preface to a Second Edition of the "_Bibliographical,
+Antiquarian, and Picturesque Tour_," I could not have done better than have
+borrowed the language of those Foreigners, who, by a translation of the
+Work (however occasionally vituperative their criticisms) have, in fact,
+conferred an honour upon its Author. In the midst of censure, sometimes
+dictated by spite, and sometimes sharpened by acrimony of feeling, it were
+in my power to select passages of commendation, which would not less
+surprise the Reader than they have done myself: while the history of this
+performance may be said to exhibit the singular phenomenon, of a traveller,
+usually lauding the countries through which he passes, receiving in return
+the reluctant approbation of those whose institutions, manners, and
+customs, have been praised by him. It is admitted, by the most sedulous and
+systematic of my opponents--M. CRAPELET--that "considering the quantity and
+quality of the ornaments and engravings of this Tour, one is surprised that
+its cost is so moderate."[1]
+
+"Few books (says the Bibliographer of Dijon) have been executed with
+greater luxury. It is said that the expenses of printing and engraving
+amounted to 6000 l.--to nearly 140,000 franks of our money. It must be
+admitted that England is the only country in which such an undertaking
+could be carried into effect. Who in France would dare to risk such a
+sum--especially for three, volumes in octavo? He would be ruined, if he
+did."[2] I quote these passages simply to shew under what extraordinary
+obliquity of feeling those gentlemen must have set down to the task of
+translation and abuse--of THAT VERY WORK, which is here admitted to contain
+such splendid representations of the "bibliographical, antiquarian, and
+picturesque" beauties of their country.
+
+A brief account of this foreign _travail_ may be acceptable to the curious
+in literary history. MONS. LICQUET, the successor of M. Gourdin, as Chief
+Librarian to the Public Library at Rouen, led the way in the work of
+warfare. He translated the ninth Letter relating to that Public Library; of
+which translation especial mention is made at p. 99, post. This version was
+printed in 1821, for private, distribution; and only 100 copies were struck
+off. M. Crapelet, in whose office it was printed, felt the embers of
+discontent rekindled in his bosom as it passed through his press; and in
+the following year HE also stepped forward to discharge an arrow at the
+Traveller. Like his predecessor, he printed but a limited number; and as I
+have more particularly remarked upon the spirit of that version by way of
+"Introduction" to the original letter, in vol. ii. 209, &c. I shall not
+waste the time of the Reader by any notice of it in the present place.
+These two partial translators united their forces, about two years
+afterwards, and published the whole of the Tour, as it related to FRANCE,
+in four octavo volumes, in 1825. The ordinary copies were sold for 48
+francs, the large paper for 112 francs per copy. The wood-cuts only were
+republished by them. Of this conjoint, and more enlarged production,
+presently.
+
+Encouraged by the examples of Messrs. Licquet and Crapelet, a Bookbinder of
+the name of LESNE (whose poem upon his "Craft," published in 1820, had been
+copiously quoted and _commended_ by me in the previous edition) chose to
+plant his foot within this arena of controversy; and to address a letter to
+me; to which his model, M. Crapelet, was too happy to give circulation
+through the medium of his press.[3] To that letter the following metrical
+lines are prefixed; which the Reader would scarcely forgive me if I failed
+to amuse him by their introduction in this place. "_Lesne, Relieur
+Francais, a Mons. T.F. Dibdin, Ministre de la Religion, &c._"
+
+  Avec un ris moqueur, je crois vous voir d'ici,
+  Dedaigneusement dire: Eh, que veut celui-ci?
+  Qu'ai-je donc de commun avec un vil artiste?
+  Un ouvrier francais, un _Bibliopegiste_?
+  Ose-t-on ravaler un Ministre a ce point?
+  Que me veut ce _Lesne_? Je ne le connais point.
+    Je crois me souvenir qu'a mon voyage en France,
+  Avec ses pauvres vers je nouai connaissance.
+  Mais c'est si peu de chose un poete a Paris!
+    Savez-vous bien, Monsieur, pourquoi je vous ecris?
+  C'est que je crois avoir le droit de vous ecrire.
+  Fussiez-vous cent fois plus qu'on ne saurait le dire,
+  Je vois dans un Ministre un homme tel que moi;
+  Devant Dieu je crois meme etre l'egal d'un roi.
+
+The Letter however is in prose, with some very few exceptions; and it is
+just possible that the indulgent Reader may endure a specimen or two of the
+prose of M. Lesne, as readily as he has that of his poetry. These specimens
+are equally delectable, of their kind. Immediately after the preceding
+poetical burst, the French Bibliopegist continues thus:
+
+    D'apres cet exorde, vous pensez sans doute que, bien convaincu de ma
+    dignite d'homme, je me crois en droit de vous dire franchement ma
+    facon de penser; je vous la dirai, Monsieur. Si vous dirigiez un
+    journal bibliographique; que vous fissiez, en un mot, le metier de
+    journaliste, je serai peu surpris de voir dans votre Trentieme Lettre,
+    une foule de choses hasardees, de mauvais calembourgs, de
+    grossieretes, que nous ne rencontrons meme pas chez nos journalistes
+    du dernier ordre, en ce qu'ils savent mieux leur monde, et que s'ils
+    lancent une epigramme, fut-elle fausse, elle est au moins finement
+    tournee. Mais vous etes ANGLAIS, et par cela seul dispense sans doute
+    de cette politesse qui distingue si heureusement notre nation de la
+    votre, et que vos compatriotes n'acquierent pour la plupart qu'apres
+    un long sejour en France." p. 6.
+
+Towards the latter part of this most formidable "Tentamen Criticum," the
+irritable author breaks out thus--"C'est une maladie Francaise de vouloir
+toujours imiter les Anglais; ceux-ci, a leur tour, commencent a en etre
+atteints." p. 19. A little farther it is thus: "Enfin c'est _en imitant_
+qu'on reussit presque toujours mal; vous en etes encore, une preuve
+evidente. J'ai vu en beaucoup d'endroits de votre Lettre, que vous avez
+voulu imiter _Sterne_;[4] qu'est-il arrive? Vous etes reste au-dessous de
+lui, comme tous les Imitateurs de notre bon La Fontaine sont restes en deca
+de l'immortel Fabuliste." p. 20. But most especially does the sensitive M.
+Lesne betray his surprise and apprehension, on a gratuitous
+supposition--thrown out by me, by way of pleasantry--that "Mr. Charles
+Lewis was going over to Paris, to establish there a modern School of
+Bookbinding." M. Lesne thus wrathfully dilates upon this supposition:
+
+    "Je me garderai bien de passer sous silence la derniere partie de
+    votre Lettre; _un bruit assez etrange est venu jusqu'a vous_; et
+    Charles Lewis doit vous quitter pour quelque temps pour etablir en
+    France une ecole de reliure d'apres les principes du gout anglais;
+    mais vous croyez, dites-vous, que ce projet est surement chimerique,
+    ou que, si on le tentait, il serait de courte duree.
+
+    Pour cette fois, Monsieur, votre pronostic serait tres juste; cette
+    demarche serait une folie: il faudrait s'abuser sur l'engouement des
+    amateurs francais, et ceux qui sont atteints de cette maladie ne sont
+    pas en assez grand nombre pour soutenir un pareil etablissement. Oui,
+    l'on aime votre genre de reliure; mais on aime les reliures, facon
+    anglaise, faites par les Francais. Pensez-vous done, ou Charles Lewis
+    pense-t-il, qu'il n'y ait plus d'esprit national en France?
+
+      Allez, le sang Francaise coule encore dans nos veines;
+      Nous pourrons eprouver des malheurs et des peines,
+      Que nous devrons peut etre a vous autres Anglais;
+      Mais nous voulons rester, nous resterons, Francais!
+
+    Ainsi, que Charles Lewis ne se derange pas; qu'il cesse, s'il les a
+    commences, les preparatifs de sa descente; qu'il ne prive pas ses
+    compatriotes d'un artiste soi-disant inimitable. Nous en avons ici qui
+    le valent, et qui se feront un plaisir de perpeteur parmi nous le bon
+    gout, l'elegance, et la noble simplicite. p. 25.[5]
+
+So much for M. Lesne. I have briefly noticed M. Peignot, the Bibliographer
+of Dijon. That worthy wight has made the versions of my Ninth and Thirtieth
+Letters (First Edition) by M.M. Licquet and Crapelet, the substratum of his
+first brochure entitled _Varietes, Notices et Raretes Bibliographiques_,
+_Paris_, 1822: it being a supplement to his previous Work of _Curiosites
+Bibliographiques_."[6] It is not always agreeable for an Author to have his
+Works reflected through the medium of a translation; especially where the
+Translator suffers a portion, however small, of his _own_ atrabiliousness,
+to be mixed up with the work translated: nor is it always safe for a third
+person to judge of the merits of the original through such a medium. Much
+allowance must therefore be made for M. Peignot; who, to say the truth, at
+the conclusion of his labours, seems to think that he has waded through a
+great deal of _dirt_ of some kind or other, which might have been better
+avoided; and that, in consequence, some general declaration, by way of
+_wiping, off_ a portion of the adhering mud, is due to the original Author.
+Accordingly, at the end of his analysis of M. Licquet's version, (which
+forms the second Letter in the brochure) he does me the honour to devote
+seven pages to the notice of my humble lucubrations:--and he prefaces this
+"_Notice des Ouvrages de M. Dibdin"_, by the following very handsome
+tribute to their worth:
+
+    Si, dans les deux Lettres ou nous avons rendu compte des traductions
+    partielles du voyage de M.D., nous avons partage l'opinion des deux
+    estimable traducteurs, sur quelques erreurs et quelques inconvenances
+    echappees a l'auteur anglais, nous sommes bien eloigne d'envelopper
+    dans le meme blame, tout ce qui est sorte de sa plume; car il y auroit
+    injustice a lui refuser des connaissances tres etendues en histoire
+    litteraire, et en bibliographie: nous le disons franchement, il
+    faudroit fermer les yeux a la lumiere, ou etre d'une partialite
+    revoltante, pour ne pas convenir que, juste appreciateur de tous les
+    tresors bibliographiques qu'il a le bonheur d'avoir sous la main, M.
+    Dibdin en a fait connoitre en detail toute la richesse dans de
+    nombreux d'ouvrages, ou tres souvent le luxe d'erudition se trouve en
+    harmonie avec le luxe typographique qu'il y a etale.
+
+At the risk of incurring the imputation of vanity, I annex the preceding
+extract; because I am persuaded that the candid Reader will appreciate it
+in its proper light. I might, had I chosen to do so, have lengthened the
+extract by a yet more complimentary passage: but enough of M. Peignot--who,
+so far from suffering ill will or acerbity to predominate over a kind
+disposition, hath been pleased, since his publication, to write to me a
+very courteous Letter,[7] and to solicit a "continuance of my favours."
+
+Agreeably to the intimation expressed in a preceding page, I am now, in due
+order, to notice the labours of my translators M.M. LICQUET and CRAPELET.
+Their united version appeared in 1825, in four octavo volumes, of which the
+small paper was but indifferently well printed.[8] The preface to the first
+two volumes is by M. Licquet: and it is not divested of point and merit. It
+begins by attacking the _Quarterly Review_, (June 1821, p. 147.) for its
+severity of animadversion on the supposed listlessness and want of
+curiosity of the French in exploring the architectural antiquities of their
+country; and that, in consequence of such supineness, the English,
+considering them as their own property, have described them accordingly.
+"The decision (says the French translator) is severe; happily it is without
+foundation." After having devoted several pages to observations by way of
+reply to that critical Journal, M. Licquet continues thus:--unless I have
+unintentionally misrepresented him.
+
+    The Englishman who travels in Normandy, meets, at every step, with
+    reminiscences of his kings, his ancestors, his institutions, and his
+    customs. Churches yet standing, after the lapse of seven centuries;
+    majestic ruins; tombs--even to the very sound of the clock--all unite
+    in affecting, here, the heart of a British subject: every thing seems
+    to tell him that, in former times, HERE was his country; here the
+    residence of his sovereigns; and here the cradle of his manners. This
+    was more than sufficient to enflame the lively imagination of Mr. D.
+    and to decide him to visit, in person, a country already explored by a
+    great number of his countrymen; but he conceived that his narrative
+    should embody other topics than those which ordinarily appeared in the
+    text of his predecessors.
+
+    "His work then is not only a description of castles, towns, churches,
+    public monuments of every kind:--it is not only a representation of
+    the general aspect of the country, as to its picturesque
+    appearances--but it is an extended, minute, though occasionally
+    inexact, account of public and private libraries; with reflections
+    upon certain customs of the country, and upon the character of those
+    who inhabit it. It is in short the personal history of the author,
+    throughout the whole length of his journey. Not the smallest incident,
+    however indifferent, but what has a place in the letters of the
+    Bibliographer. Thus, he mentions every Inn where he stops: recommends
+    or scolds the landlord--according to his civility or exaction. Has the
+    author passed a bad night? the reader is sure to know it on the
+    following morning. On the other hand, has he had a good night's rest
+    in a comfortable bed? [dans un lit _comfortable_?] We are as sure to
+    know this also, as soon as he awakes:--and thus far we are relieved
+    from anxiety about the health of the traveller. Cold and heat--fine
+    weather and bad weather--every variation of atmosphere is scrupulously
+    recorded.
+
+What immediately follows, is unworthy of M. Licquet; because it not only
+implies a charge of a heinous description--accusing me of an insidious
+intrusion into domestic circles, a violation of confidence, and a
+systematic derision of persons and things--but because the French
+translator, exercising that sense and shrewdness which usually distinguish
+him, MUST have known that such a charge _could_ not have been founded in
+FACT. He must have known that any gentleman, leaving England with those
+letters which brought me in contact with some of the first circles on the
+Continent, MUST have left it without leaving his character _behind_ him;
+and that such a character could not, in the natural order of things--seen
+even through the sensitive medium of a French critic--have been guilty of
+the grossness and improprieties imputed to me by M. Licquet. I treat
+therefore this "damnation in wholesale" with scorn and contempt: and hasten
+to impress the reader with a more favourable opinion of my Norman
+translator. He _will_ have it that
+
+    "the English Traveller's imagination is lively and ardent--and his
+    spirit, that of raillery and lightness. He examines as he runs along;
+    that is to say, he does not give himself time to examine; he examines
+    ill; he deceives himself; and he subjects his readers to be deceived
+    with him. He traverses, at a hard trot, one of the most ancient towns
+    in France; puts his head out of his carriage window--and boldly
+    decides that the town is of the time of Francis I."![9] p. xviij.
+
+There is pleasantry, and perhaps some little truth, in this vein of
+observation; and it had been better, perhaps, for the credit of the good
+taste and gentleman-like feeling of Mons. Licquet, if he had uniformly
+maintained his character in these respects. I have however, in the
+subsequent pages,[10] occasionally grappled with my annotator in proving
+the fallacy, or the want of charity, of many of his animadversions: and the
+reader probably may not be displeased, if, by way of "avant propos," I
+indulge him here with a specimen of them--taken from his preface. M.
+Licquet says, that I "create scenes; arrange a drama; trace characters;
+imagine a dialogue, frequently in French--and in what French--gracious
+God!--in assigning to postilions a ridiculous language, and to men of the
+world the language of postilions." These be sharp words:[11] but what does
+the Reader imagine may be the probable "result" of the English Traveller's
+inadvertencies?... A result, ("gracious Heaven!") very little anticipated
+by the author. Let him ponder well upon the awful language which ensues.
+"What (says M. Licquet) will quickly be the result, with us, of such
+indiscretions as those of which M. Dibdin is guilty? The necessity of
+SHUTTING OUR PORTS, or at least of placing a GUARD UPON OUR LIPS!" There is
+some consolation however left for me, in balancing this tremendous
+denunciation by M. Licquet's eulogy of my good qualities--which a natural
+diffidence impels me to quote in the original words of their author.
+
+    "A Dieu ne plaise, toutefois, que j'accuse ici LE COEUR de M. Dibdin.
+    Je n'ai jamais eu l'honneur de le voir: je ne le connais que par ses
+    ecrits; principalement par son _Splendid Tour_, et je ne balance pas a
+    declarer que l'auteur doit etre doue d'une ame honnete, et de ces
+    qualites fondamentales qui constituent l'homme de bien. Il prefere sa
+    croyance; mais il respecte la croyance des autres; son erudition
+    parait....[12] variee. Son amour pour les antiquites est immense; et
+    par antiquites j'entends ici tout ce qui est _antique_ ou seulement
+    _ancien_, quellesque soient d'ailleurs la nature et la forme des
+    objets." Pref. p. xv. xvij.
+
+Once more; and to conclude with M. Licquet. After these general
+observations upon the _Text_ of the Tour, M. Licquet favours us with the
+following--upon the _Plates_. "These plates (says he) are intended to
+represent some of the principal monuments; the most beautiful landscapes,
+and the most remarkable persons, comprehending even the servants of an inn.
+If _talent_ be sought in these Engravings, it will doubtless be found in
+them; but strangers must not seek for _fidelity_ of representation from
+what is before their eyes. The greater number of the Designs are, in some
+sort, ideal compositions, which, by resembling every thing, resemble
+nothing in particular: and it is worthy of remark that the Artist, in
+imitation of the Author, seems to have thought that he had only to shew
+himself _clever_, without troubling himself to be _faithful_." To this, I
+reply in the very words of M. Licquet himself: "the decision is severe;
+luckily it is unjust." The only portions of the designs of their skilful
+author, which may be taxed with a tendency to extravagance, are the
+_groups_: which, when accompanied by views of landscapes, or of monuments,
+are probably too profusely indulged in; but the _individuals_, constituting
+those groups, belong precisely to the _country_ in which they are
+represented. In the first and second volumes they are _French_; in the
+third they are _Germans_--all over. Will M. Licquet pretend to say that the
+churches, monasteries, streets, and buildings, with which the previous
+Edition of this Tour is so elaborately embellished, have the slightest
+tendency to IMAGINED SCENERY? If he do, his optics must be peculiarly his
+own. I have, in a subsequent page, (p. 34, note) slightly alluded to the
+cost and risk attendant on the Plates; but I may confidently affirm, from
+experience, that two thirds of the expense incurred would have secured the
+same sale at the same price. However, the die is cast; and the voice of
+lamentation is fruitless.
+
+I now come to the consideration of M. Licquet's coadjutor, M. CRAPELET.
+Although the line of conduct pursued by that very singular gentleman be of
+an infinitely more crooked description than that of his Predecessor, yet,
+in this place, I shall observe less respecting it; inasmuch as, in the
+subsequent pages, (pp. 209, 245, 253, 400, &c.) the version and annotations
+of M. Crapelet have been somewhat minutely discussed. Upon the SPIRIT which
+could give rise to such a version, and such annotations, I will here only
+observe, that it very much resembles that of searchers of our
+street-pavements; who, with long nails, scrape out the dirt from the
+interstices of the stones, with the hope of making a discovery of some lost
+treasure which may compensate the toil of perseverance. The love of lucre
+may, or may not, have influenced my Parisian translator; but the love of
+discovery of latent error, and of exposure of venial transgression, has
+undoubtedly, from beginning to end, excited his zeal and perseverance. That
+carping spirit, which shuts its eyes upon what is liberal and kind, and
+withholds its assent to what is honourable and just, it is the
+distinguished lot--and, perhaps, as the translator may imagine, the
+distinguished felicity--of M. Crapelet to possess. Never was greater
+reluctance displayed in admitting even the palpable truths of a text, than
+what is displayed in the notes of M. Crapelet: and whenever a concurring
+sentiment comes from him, it seems to exude like his heart's life-blood.
+Having already answered, in detail, his separate publication confined to my
+30th Letter[13]--(the 8th of the second volume, in _this_ edition) and
+having replied to those animadversions which appear in his translation of
+the whole of the second volume, in this edition--it remains here only to
+consign the Translator to the careful and impartial consideration of the
+Reader, who, it is requested, may be umpire between both parties. Not to
+admit that the text of this Edition is in many places improved, from the
+suggestions of my Translators, by corrections of "Names of Persons, Places,
+and Things," would be to betray a stubbornness or obtuseness of feeling
+which certainly does not enter into the composition of its author.
+
+I now turn, not without some little anxiety, yet not wholly divested of the
+hope of a favourable issue, to the character and object of the Edition HERE
+presented to the Public. It will be evident, at first glance, that it is
+greatly "shorn of its beams" in regard to graphic decorations and
+typographical splendour. Yet its garb, if less costly, is not made of
+coarse materials: for it has been the wish and aim of the Publishers, that
+this impression should rank among books worthy of the DISTINGUISHED PRESS
+from which it issues. Nor is it unadorned by the sister art of _Engraving_;
+for, although on a reduced scale, some of the repeated plates may even
+dispute the palm of superiority with their predecessors. Several of the
+GROUPS, executed on _copper_ in the preceding edition, have been executed
+on _wood_ in the present; and it is for the learned in these matters to
+decide upon their relative merits. To have attempted portraits upon wood,
+would have inevitably led to failure. There are however, a few NEW PLATES,
+which cannot fail to elicit the Purchaser's particular attention. Of these,
+the portraits of the _Abbe de la Rue_ (procured through the kind offices of
+my excellent friend Mr. Douce), and the _Comte de Brienne_, the _Gold Medal
+of Louis XII_. the _Stone Pulpit of Strasbourg Cathedral,_ and the _Prater
+near Vienna_--are particularly to be noticed.[14] This Edition has also
+another attraction, rather popular in the present day, which may add to its
+recommendation even with those possessed of its precursor. It contains
+fac-similes of the AUTOGRAPHS of several distinguished Literati and Artists
+upon the Continent;[15] who, looking at the text of the work through a less
+jaundiced medium than the Parisian translator, have continued a
+correspondence with the Author, upon the most friendly terms, since its
+publication. The accuracy of these fac-similes must be admitted, even by
+the parties themselves, to be indisputable. Among them, are several,
+executed by hands.. which now CEASE to guide the pen! I had long and fondly
+hoped to have been gratified by increasing testimonies of the warmth of
+heart which had directed several of the pens in question--hoped ... even
+against the admonition of a pagan poet ...
+
+  "Vitae summa brevis SPEM nos vetat inchoare LONGAM."
+
+But such hopes are now irretrievably cut off; and the remembrance of the
+past must solace the anticipations of the future.
+
+So much respecting the _decorative_ department of this new edition of the
+Tour. I have now to request the Reader's attention to a few points more
+immediately connected with what may be considered its _intrinsic_ worth. In
+the first place, it may be pronounced to be an Edition both _abridged_ and
+_enlarged_: abridged, as regards the lengthiness of description of many of
+the MSS. and Printed Books--and enlarged, as respects the addition, of many
+notes; partly of a controversial, and partly of an obituary, description.
+The "Antiquarian and Picturesque" portions remain nearly as heretofore; and
+upon the whole I doubt whether the amputation of matter has extended beyond
+_an eighth_ of what appeared in the previous edition. It had long ago been
+suggested to me--from a quarter too high and respectable to doubt the
+wisdom of its decision--that the Contents of this Tour should be made known
+to the Public through a less costly medium:--that the objects described in
+it were, in a measure, new and interesting--but that the high price of the
+purchase rendered it, to the majority of Readers, an inaccessible
+publication. I hope that these objections are fully met, and successfully
+set aside, by the Work in its PRESENT FORM. To have produced it, _wholly
+divested_ of ornament, would have been as foreign to my habits as repugnant
+to my feelings. I have therefore, as I would willingly conclude, hit upon
+the happy medium--between sterility and excess of decoration.
+
+After all, the greater part of the ground here trodden, yet continues to be
+untrodden ground to the public. I am not acquainted with any publication
+which embraces all the objects here described; nor can I bring myself to
+think that a perusal of the first and third volumes may not be unattended
+with gratification of a peculiar description, to the lovers of antiquities
+and picturesque beauties. The second volume is rather the exclusive
+province of the Bibliographer. In retracing the steps here marked out, I
+will not be hypocrite enough to dissemble a sort of triumphant feeling
+which accompanies a retrospection of the time, labour, and money devoted..
+in doing justice, according to my means, to the attractions and worth of
+the Countries which these pages describe. Every such effort is, in its way,
+a NATIONAL effort. Every such attempt unites, in stronger bonds, the
+reciprocities of a generous feeling between rival Nations; and if my reward
+has not been in _wealth_, it has been in the hearty commendation of the
+enlightened and the good: "Mea me virtute involvo."[16]
+
+I cannot boast of the commendatory strains of public Journals in my own
+country. No intellectual steam-engine has been put in motion to manufacture
+a review of unqualified approbation of the Work now submitted to the public
+eye--at an expense, commensurate with the ordinary means of purchase. With
+the exception of an indirect and laudatory notice of it, in the immortal
+pages of the Author of Waverley, of the Sketch book, and of Reginald
+Dalton, this Tour has had to fight its way under the splendour of its own
+banners, and in the strength of its own cause. The previous Edition is now
+a scarce and a costly book. Its Successor has enough to recommend it, even
+to the most fastidious collector, from the elegance of its type and
+decorations, and from the reasonableness of its price; but the highest
+ambition of its author is, that it may be a part of the furniture of every
+Circulating Library in the Kingdom. If he were not conscious that GOOD
+would result from its perusal, he would not venture upon such an avowal.
+"FELIX FAUSTUMQUE SIT!"
+
+
+[1] M. Crapelet is of course speaking of the PREVIOUS edition of the Tour.
+    He continues thus: "M. Dibdin, dans son voyage en France, a visite nos
+    departemens de l'ouest et de l'est, toutes leurs principales villes,
+    presque tous les lieux remarquables par les antiquites, par les
+    monumens, par les beautes du site, ou par les souvenirs historiques.
+    Il a visite les chateaux, les eglises, les chapelles; il a observe nos
+    moeurs, nos coutumes; nos habitudes; il a examine nos Musees et nos
+    premiers Cabinets de curiosite; il s'est concentre dans nos
+    Bibliotheques. Il parle de notre litterature et des hommes de lettres,
+    des arts et de nos artistes; il critique les personnes comme les
+    choses; il loue quelquefois, il plaisante souvent; la vivacite de son
+    esprit l'egare presque toujours." A careful perusal of the notes in
+    THIS edition will shew that my veracity has not "almost always led me
+    astray."
+
+[2] GABRIEL PEIGNOT; _Varietes, Notices et Raretes Bibliographiques, 1822,
+    8vo. p. 4_.
+
+[3] _Lettre d'un Relieur Francais a un Bibliographe Anglais; a Paris, de
+    l'Imprimerie de Crapelet_, 1822, 8vo. p.p. 28.
+
+[4] It is a little curious that M. Lesne has not been singular in this
+    supposition. My amiable and excellent friend M. Schweighaeuser of
+    Strasbourg had the same notion: at least, he told me that the style of
+    the Tour very frequently reminded him of that of Sterne. I can only
+    say--and say very honestly--that I as much thought of Sterne as I did
+    of ... William Caxton!
+
+[5] Copious as are the above quotations, from the thoroughly original M.
+    Lesne, I cannot resist the risking of the readers patience and good
+    opinion, by the subjoining of the following passage--with which the
+    brochure concludes. "D'apres la multitude de choses hasardees que
+    contient votre Lettre, vous en aurez probablement recu quelques unes
+    de personnes que vous aurez choquees plus que moi, qui vous devrais
+    plutot des remercimens pour avoir pris la peine de traduire quelques
+    pages de mon ouvrage; mais il n'en est pas de meme de bien des gens,
+    et cela ne doit pas les engager a etre autant communicatif avec vous,
+    si vous reveniez en France. Je souhaite, dans ce dernier cas, que tous
+    les typographes, les bibliothecaires, les bibliognostes, les
+    bibliographes, les bibliolathes, les bibliomanes, les biblophiles, les
+    bibliopoles, ceux qui exercent la bibliuguiancie et les bibliopegistes
+    meme, soient pour vous autant de bibliotaphes; vous ne seriez plus a
+    meme de critiquer ce que vous sauriez et ce que vous ne sauriez pas,
+    comme vous l'aviez si souvent fait inconsiderement:
+
+      Mais tous vos procedes ne nous etonnent pas,
+      C'est le sort des Francais de faire DES INGRATS;
+      On les voit servir ceux qui leur furent nuisibles;
+      Je crois que sur ce point ils sont incorrigibles.
+
+    Je vous avouerai cependant que je suis loin d'etre fache de vous voir
+    en agir ainsi envers mes compatriotes: je desirerais que beaucoup
+    d'Anglais fissent de meme; cela pourrait desangliciser ou
+    desanglomaniser les Francais. Vous, Monsieur, qui aimez les mots
+    nouveaux, aidez-moi, je vous prie, a franciser, a purifier celui-ci.
+    Quant a moi
+
+      Je ne fus pas nourri de Grec et de Latin,
+      J'appris a veiller tard, a me lever matin,
+      La nature est le livre ou je fis mes etudes,
+      Et tous ces mots nouveaux me semblent long-temps rudes;
+      Je trouve qu'on ne peut tres bien les prononcer
+      Sans affectation, au moins sans grimacer;
+      Que tous ces mots tires des langues etrangeres,
+      Devraient etre l'objet de critiques severes.
+      Faites donc de l'esprit en depit du bon sens,
+      On vous critiquera; quant a moi j'y consens.
+
+    Je terminerai cette longue Lettre de deux manieres: a l'anglaise, en
+    vous souhaitant le bon jour ou le bon soir, suivant l'heure a laquelle
+    vous la recevrez; a la francaise, en vous priant de me croire,
+
+    Monsieur,
+
+    Votre tres humble serviteur,
+
+    LESNE.
+
+[6] The above brochure consists of two Letters; each to an anonymous
+    bibliographical "Confrere:" one is upon the subject of M. Crapelet's
+    version--the other, upon that of M. Licquet's version--of a portion of
+    the Tour. The notice of the Works of the Author of the Tour; a list of
+    the prices for which the Books mentioned in it have been sold; a
+    Notice of the "Hours of Charlemagne" (see vol. ii. 199) and some
+    account of the late Mr. Porson "Librarian of the London
+    Institution"--form the remaining portion of this little volume of
+    about 160 pages. For the "Curiosites Bibliographiques," consult the
+    _Bibliomania_, pp. 90, 91, &c. &c.
+
+[7] This letter accompanied another Work of M. Peignot, relating to
+    editions and translations of the Roman Classics:--and as the reader
+    will find, in the ensuing pages, that I have been sometime past
+    labouring under the frightful, but popular, mania of AUTOGRAPHS, I
+    subjoin with no small satisfaction a fac-simile of the Autograph of
+    this enthusiastic and most diligent Bibliographer.
+
+    [Autograph: Votre tres humble et obeissant serviteur, G. Peignot]
+
+[8] See page xviii.--ante.
+
+[9] M. Licquet goes on to afford an exemplification of this precipitancy of
+    conjecture, in my having construed the word _Allemagne_--a village
+    near to Caen--by that of _Germany_. I refer the reader to p. 168 post,
+    to shew with what perfect frankness I have admitted and corrected this
+    "_hippopotamos_" error.
+
+[10] More especially at pages 82, 100, 367.
+
+[11] "Sharp" as they may be, they are softened, in some measure, by the
+    admission of my bitterest annotator, M. Crapelet, that "I speak and
+    understand the French language well." vol. ii. p. 253. It is painful
+    and unusual with me to have recourse to such apparently
+    self-complimentary language; but when an adversary drives one into a
+    corner, and will not allow of fair space and fair play, one must fight
+    with feet as well as with hands ... "manibus pedibusque" ...
+
+[12] This _hiatus_ must not be filled by the Author: ... "haud equidem
+    tali me dignor honore."
+
+[13] See vol. ii. p. 210-11.
+
+[14] See vol. i. p. 186, vol. ii. pp. 49, 296, 392. The other fresh plates
+    are, _Portrait of the Author_, frontispiece; Bird's-eye views of the
+    _Monasteries of St. Peter's, Salzburg, and of Molk:_ vol. iii. pp.
+    195, 248, 381, _Black Eagle Inn_, Munich, p. 156. But the Reader will
+    be pleased to examine the _List of Plates prefixed_--in a preceding
+    page.
+
+[15] Among these distinguished Literati, I here enrol with peculiar
+    satisfaction the names of the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUGIRON and Mons. DURAND
+    DE LANCON. No opportunity having occurred in the subsequent pages to
+    incorporate fac-similes of the Autographs of these distinguished
+    _Bibliophiles_, they are annexed in the present place.
+
+    [Autographs: M. de Chateaugiron, D. de Lancon]
+
+[16] It is more than a negative consolation to me, to have lived to see the
+    day, that, although comparatively impoverished, _others_ have
+    been enriched by my labours. When I noticed a complete set of my
+    lucubrations on LARGE PAPER, valued at 250_l_. in a bookseller's
+    catalogue, (Mr. Pickering's) and afterwards learnt that this set had
+    found a PURCHASER, I had reason to think that I had "deserved well" of
+    the Literature of my country: and I resolved to live "mihi carior" in
+    consequence.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL
+
+Antiquarian
+
+AND
+
+PICTURESQUE TOUR.
+
+
+
+
+The Notes peculiar to THIS EDITION are distinguished by being inserted
+between brackets: as thus:--[]
+
+*** The Index is placed at the end of the First Volume, for the purpose of
+equalising the size of the Volumes.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+
+PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.
+
+_Dieppe, April 20, 1818_.
+
+
+At length then, my dear Friend, the long projected "_Bibliographical,
+Antiquarian_,[17] and _Picturesque Tour"_ is carried into execution; and
+the Tourist is safely landed on the shores of Normandy. "Vous voila donc,
+Monsieur a Dieppe!"--exclaimed the landlord of the Grand Hotel
+d'Angleterre--as I made my way through a vociferating crowd of old and
+young, of both sexes, with cards of addresses in their hands; entreating me
+to take up my abode at their respective hotels.... But I know your love of
+method, and that you will be angry with me if I do not "begin at the
+beginning."
+
+It was surely on one of the finest of all fine days that I left my home, on
+the 14th of this present month, for the land of castles, churches, and
+ancient chivalry. The wind from the south-east was blowing pretty smartly
+at the time; but the sky was without a cloud, and I could not but look upon
+the brilliancy of every external object as a favourable omen of the
+progress and termination of my tour. Adverse winds, or the indolence or
+unwillingness of the Captain, detained us at Brighton two whole
+days--instead of sailing, as we were led to expect, on the day following
+our arrival. We were to form the first ship's company which had visited
+France this season. On approaching our gallant little bark, the
+_Nancy_,[18] commanded by Captain BLABER, the anchor was weighed, and
+hoisting sail, we stood out to sea. The day began to improve upon us. The
+gloomy appearances of the morning gradually brightened up. A host of black
+clouds rolled heavily away. The sun at length shone in his full meridian
+splendour, and the ocean sparkled as we cut through its emerald waves. As I
+supposed us to near the French coast, I strained my eyes to obtain an early
+glimpse of something in the shape of cliff or jettie. But the wind
+continued determinedly in the south east: the waves rose in larger masses;
+and our little vessel threw up a heavy shower of foam as we entered on the
+various tacks.
+
+It is a grand sight--that vast, and apparently interminable ocean--
+
+  .... maria undique et undique coelum!
+
+We darted from Beechy Head upon a long tack for the French coast: and as
+the sun declined, we found it most prudent to put the Captain's advice, of
+going below, into execution. Then commenced all the miseries of the voyage.
+The moon had begun to assert her ascendancy, when, racked with torture and
+pain in our respective berths, a tremendous surge washed completely over
+the deck, sky-light, and binnacle: and down came, in consequence, drenched
+with the briny wave, the hardiest of our crew, who, till then, had ventured
+to linger upon deck. That crew was various; and not without a few of the
+natives of those shores which we were about to visit.
+
+To cut short my ship-narrative, suffice it only farther to say, that,
+towards midnight, we heard our Captain exclaim that he saw "the lights of
+Dieppe"--a joyful sound to us miserable wretches below. I well remember, at
+this moment, looking up towards the deck with a cheerless eye, and
+perceiving the light of the moon still lingering upon the main-sail,--but I
+shall never forget how much more powerfully my sensations were excited,
+when, as the dawn of day made objects visible, I looked up, and saw an old
+wrinkle-visaged sailor, with a red night cap on begirt with large blue,
+puckered, short petticoats--in possession of the helm--about to steer the
+vessel into harbour![19]
+
+About seven we were all upon deck. The sea was yet swoln and agitated, and
+of a dingy colour: while
+
+    .... heavily with clouds came on the day,
+
+as we slowly approached the outward harbour of DIEPPE. A grey morning with
+drizzling rain, is not the best accompaniment of a first visit to a foreign
+shore. Nevertheless every thing was new, and strange, and striking; and the
+huge crucifix, to the right, did not fail to make a very forcible
+impression. As we approached the, inner harbour, the shipping and the
+buildings more distinctly presented themselves. The harbour is large, and
+the vessels are entirely mercantile, with a plentiful sprinkling of fishing
+smacks: but the manner in which the latter harmonized with the tint and
+structure of the houses--the bustle upon shore--the casks, deal planks,
+ropes, and goods of every description upon the quays,--all formed a most
+animated and interesting scene. The population seemed countless, and
+chiefly females; whose high caps and enormous ear-rings, with the rest of
+their paraphernalia, half persuaded me that instead of being some few
+twenty-five leagues only from our own white cliffs, I had in fact dropt
+upon the Antipodes! What a scene (said I to my companion) for our CALCOTT
+to depict![20] It was a full hour before we landed--saluted, and even
+assailed on all sides, with entreaties to come to certain hotels. We were
+not long however in fixing our residence at the _Hotel d'Angleterre_, of
+which the worthy Mons. De La Rue[21] is the landlord.
+
+
+[17] [Mons. Licquet, my translator, thinks, that in using the word
+    "_Antiquaire_"--as appears in the previous edition of this work,
+    incorporated in the gallicised sentence of "_Voyage Bibliographique
+    Antiquaire_, &c."--I have committed an error; as the word
+    "_Archeologique_" ought, in his opinion, to have been adopted--and he
+    supposes that he best expresses my meaning by its adoption. Such a
+    correction may be better French; but "Archaeological" is not exactly
+    what is usually meant--in our language--by "Antiquarian."]
+
+[18] This smart little vessel, of about 70 tons burden, considered to be
+    the fastest sailing packet from Dieppe, survived our voyage only about
+    eighteen months. Her end had nearly proved fatal to every soul on
+    board of her. In a dark night, in the month of September, when bound
+    for Dieppe, she was struck by a heavy London brig. The crew was with
+    difficulty saved--and the vessel went down within about twenty-five
+    minutes after the shock.
+
+[19] The English are not permitted to bring their own vessels into
+    harbour--for obvious reasons.
+
+[20] [This "scene" has been, in fact, subsequently depicted by. the
+    masterly pencil of J.M.W.TURNER, Esq. R. A: and the picture, in which
+    almost all the powers of that surprising Artist are concentrated, was
+    lately offered for sale by public auction. How it was suffered to be
+    _bought in_ for three hundred and eighty guineas, is at once a riddle
+    and a reproach to public taste.]
+
+[21] [I learn that he is since DECEASED. Thus the very first chapter of
+    this second edition has to record an instance of the casualties and
+    mutabilities which the short space of ten years has effected. Mons. De
+    la Rue was a man of worth and of virtue.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+DIEPPE. FISHERIES. STREETS. CHURCHES OF ST. JAQUES AND ST. REMY. DIVINE
+WORSHIP. MILITARY MASS.
+
+
+The town of Dieppe contains a population of about twenty-thousand
+souls.[22] Of these, by much the greater _stationary_ part are females;
+arising from one third at least of the males being constantly engaged in
+the FISHERIES. As these fisheries are the main support of the inhabitants,
+it is right that you should know something about them. The _herring_
+fishery takes place twice a year: in August and October. The August fishery
+is carried on along the shores of England and the North. From sixty to
+eighty vessels, of from twenty-five to thirty tons burthen each, with about
+fifteen men in each vessel, are usually employed. They are freighted with
+salt and empty barrels, for seasoning and stowing the fish, and they return
+about the end of October. The herrings caught in August are considerably
+preferable to those caught in October. The October fishery is carried on
+with smaller vessels, along the coast of France from Boulogne to Havre.
+From one hundred and twenty, to one hundred and thirty vessels, are engaged
+in this latter navigation; and the fish, which is smaller, and of inferior
+flavour to that caught upon the English coasts, is sent almost entirely to
+the provinces and to Paris, where it is eaten fresh. So much for the
+herring.[23]
+
+The _Mackarel_ fishery usually commences towards the month of July, along
+the coast of Picardy; because, being a sort of fish of passage, it gets
+into the channel in the month of April. It then moves towards the straits
+of Dover, as summer approaches. For this fishery they make use of large
+decked-vessels, from twenty to fifty tons burthen, manned with from twelve
+to twenty men. There are however Dieppe boats employed in this fishery
+which go as far as the Scilly Islands and Ushant, towards the middle of
+April. They carry with them the salt requisite to season the fish, which
+are afterwards sent to Paris, and to the provinces in the interior of
+France. The _cod fishery_ is divided into the fresh and dried fish. The
+former continues from the beginning of February to the end of April--and
+the vessels employed, which go as far as Newfoundland, are two deckers, and
+from one hundred to one hundred and fifty tons burthen--although, in fact,
+they rarely carry more than fifteen tons for fear of spoiling the fish. The
+dried-cod fishery is carried on in vessels of all sizes; but it is
+essential that they be of a certain depth, because the fish is more
+cumbersome than weighty. The vessels however usually set sail about the
+month of March or April, in order that they may have the advantage of the
+summer season, to dry the fish. There are vessels which go to Newfoundland
+laden with brandy, flour, beans, treacle, linen and woollen cloths, which
+they dispose of to the inhabitants of the French colonies in exchange for
+dried cod. This latter species of commerce may be carried on in the summer
+months--as late as July.
+
+In the common markets for retail trade, they are not very nice in the
+quality or condition of their fish; and enormous conger eels, which would
+be instantly rejected by the middling, or even lower classes in England,
+are, at Dieppe, bought with avidity and relished with glee. A few francs
+will procure a dish of fish large enough for a dozen people. The quays are
+constantly crowded, but there seems to be more of bustle than of business.
+The town is certainly picturesque, notwithstanding the houses are very
+little more than a century old, and the streets are formal and
+comparatively wide. Indeed it should seem that the houses were built
+expressly for Noblemen and Gentlemen, although they are inhabited by
+tradesmen, mechanics, and artizans, in apparently very indifferent
+circumstances. I scarcely saw six private houses which could be called
+elegant, and not a gentleman's carriage has been yet noticed in the
+streets. But if the _Dieppois_ are not rich, they seem happy, and are in a
+constant state of occupation. A woman sells her wares in an open shop, or
+in an insulated booth, and sits without her bonnet (as indeed do all the
+tradesmen's wives), and works or sings as humour sways her. A man sells
+gingerbread in an open shed, and in the intervals of his customer's coming,
+reads some popular history or romance. Most of the upper windows are wholly
+destitute of glass; but are smothered with clothes, rags, and wall flowers.
+The fragrance emitted from these flowers affords no unpleasing antidote to
+odors of a very different description; and here we begin to have a too
+convincing proof of the general character of the country in regard to the
+want of cleanliness. A little good sense, or rather a better-regulated
+police, would speedily get rid of such nuisances. The want of public sewers
+is another great and grievous cause of smells of every description. At
+Dieppe there are fountains in abundance; and if some of the limpid streams,
+which issue from them, were directed to cleansing the streets, (which are
+excellently well paved) the effect would be both more salubrious and
+pleasant--especially to the sensitive organs of Englishmen.
+
+We had hardly concluded our breakfasts, when a loud and clattering sound
+was heard; and down came, in a heavy trot, with sundry ear-piercing
+crackings of the whip, the thundering _Diligence_: large, lofty, and of
+most unwieldy dimensions: of a structure, too, strong enough to carry a
+half score of elephants. The postilion is an animal perfectly _sui
+generis_: gay, alert, and living upon the best possible terms with himself.
+He wears the royal livery, red and blue; with a plate of the fleur de lis
+upon his left arm. His hair is tied behind, in a thick, short, tightly
+fastened queue: with powder and pomatum enough to weather a whole winter's
+storm and tempest.[24] As he never rises in his stirrups,[25] I leave you
+to judge of the merciless effects of this ever-beating club upon the
+texture of his jacket. He is however fond of his horses: is well known by
+them; and there is all flourish and noise, and no sort of cruelty, in his
+treatment of them. His spurs are of tremendous dimensions; such as we see
+sticking to the heels of knights in illuminated Mss. of the XVth century.
+He has nothing to do with the ponderous machine behind him. He sits upon
+the near of the two wheel horses, with three horses before him. His
+turnings are all adroitly and correctly made; and, upon the whole, he is a
+clever fellow in the exercise of his office.
+
+You ought to know, that, formerly, this town was greatly celebrated for its
+manufactures in _Ivory_; but the present aspect of the ivory-market affords
+only a faint notion of what it might have been in the sixteenth and
+seventeenth centuries. I purchased a few subordinate articles (chiefly of a
+religious character) and which I shall preserve rather as a matter of
+evidence than of admiration. There is yet however a considerable
+manufacture of _thread lace_; and between three and four thousand females
+are supposed to earn a comfortable livelihood by it.[26]
+
+My love of ecclesiastical architecture quickly induced me to visit the
+CHURCHES; and I set out with two English gentlemen to pay our respects to
+the principal church, St. JAQUES. As we entered it, a general gloom
+prevailed, and a sort of premature evening came on; while the clatter of
+the sabots was sufficiently audible along the aisles. In making the circuit
+of the side chapels, an unusual light proceeded from a sort of grated door
+way. We approached, and witnessed a sight which could not fail to rivet our
+attention. In what seemed to be an excavated interior, were several
+figures, cut in stone, and coloured after life, (of which they were the
+size) representing the _Three Maries, St. John, and Joseph of Arimathea_..
+in the act of entombing Christ: the figure of our Saviour being half sunk
+into the tomb. The whole was partially illuminated by some two dozen of
+shabby and nearly consumed tallow candles; affording a striking contrast to
+the increasing darkness of the nave and the side aisles. We retired, more
+and more struck with the novelty of every object around us, to our supper
+and beds, which were excellent; and a good night's rest made me forget the
+miseries of the preceding evening.
+
+The next morning, being Sunday, we betook ourselves in good time to the
+service of ST. JAQUES:[27] but on our way thither, we saw a waxen figure of
+Christ (usually called an "Ecce Homo") enclosed within a box, of which the
+doors were opened. The figure and box are the property of the man who plays
+on a violin, close to the box; and who is selling little mass books,
+supposed to be rendered more sacred by having been passed across the feet
+and hands of the waxen Christ. Such a mongrel occupation, and such a motley
+group, must strike you with astonishment--as a Sunday morning's recreation.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+By half past ten the congregation had assembled within the Church; and
+every side-chapel (I think about twelve in number) began to be filled by
+the penitent flocks: each bringing, or hiring, a rush-bottomed chair--with
+which the churches are pretty liberally furnished, and of which the _Tarif_
+(or terms of hire) is pasted upon the walls. There were, I am quite sure,
+full eighteen women to one man: which may in part be accounted for, by the
+almost uniform absence of a third of the male population occupied in the
+fisheries. I think there could not have been fewer than two thousand souls
+present. But what struck me as the most ludicrously solemn thing I had ever
+beheld, was a huge tall figure, dressed like a drum-major, with a large
+cocked hat and three white plumes, (the only covered male figure in the
+congregation,) a broad white sash upon a complete suit of red, including
+red stockings;--representing what in our country is called a _Beadle_. He
+was a sturdy, grim-looking fellow; bearing an halberd in his right hand,
+which he wielded with a sort of pompous swing, infusing terror into the
+young, and commanding the admiration of the old. I must not, however, omit
+to inform you, that half the service was scarcely performed when the
+preacher mounted a pulpit, with a black cap on, and read a short sermon
+from a printed book. I shall long have a distinct recollection of the
+figure and attitude of the _Verger_ who attended the preacher. He followed
+him to the pulpit, fastened the door, became stationary, and rested his
+left arm over the railings of the stairs. Anon, he took out his snuff-box
+with his right hand, and regaled himself with a pinch of snuff in the most
+joyous and comfortably-abstracted manner imaginable. There he remained till
+the conclusion of the discourse; not one word of which seemed to afford him
+half the satisfaction as did the contents of his snuff-box.
+
+_Military Mass_ was performed about an hour after, at the church of ST.
+REMY, whither I strolled quietly, to witness the devotion of the
+congregation previous to the entry of the soldiers; and I will not
+dissemble being much struck and gratified by what I saw. There was more
+simplicity: a smaller congregation: softer music: a lower-toned organ; less
+rush of people; and in very many of the flock the most intense and
+unfeigned expression of piety. At the elevation of the host, from the end
+of the choir, (near which was suspended a white flag with the portrait of
+the present King[28] upon it) a bell was rung from the tower of the church;
+the sound, below, was soft and silver-toned--accompanied by rather a quick
+movement on the organ, upon the diapason stop; which, united with the
+silence and prostration of the congregation, might have commanded the
+reverence of the most profane.
+
+There is nothing, my dear friend, more gratifying, in a foreign land, than
+the general appearance of earnestness of devotion on a sabbath day;
+especially within the HOUSE OF GOD. However, I quickly heard the clangor of
+the trumpet, the beat of drums, the measured tramp of human feet, and up
+marched two or three troops of the national guard to perform military mass.
+I retired precipitately to the Inn, being well pleased to have escaped this
+strange and distracting sight: so little in harmony with the rites and
+ceremonies of our own church, and in truth so little accordant with the
+service which I had just beheld.
+
+
+[22] [Mons. Licquet says that there were about 17,000 souls in 1824; so
+    that the above number may be that of the amount of its _present_
+    population. "Several changes (says my French translator) have taken
+    place at Dieppe since I saw it: among the rest, there is a magnificent
+    establishment of BATHS, where a crowd of people, of the first
+    distinction, every year resort. Her Royal Highness, the Duchesse de
+    Berri, may be numbered among these Visitors.]
+
+[23] [The common people to this day call a _herring_, a _child of
+    Dieppe._ LICQUET.]
+
+[24] ["Sterne reproaches the French for their hyperbolical language: the
+    air of the country had probably some influence on M. Dibdin when he
+    adopted this phrase." LICQUET.]
+
+[25] ["Signifying, that the French postilions do not ride like the
+    English." LICQUET.]
+
+[26] ["Dieppe for a long time was the rival of Argentan and Caen in the
+    lace-manufactory: at the present day, this branch of commerce is
+    almost annihilated there."--LICQUET.]
+
+[27] [In a note attached to the previous edition--I have said, "Here also,
+    as well as at Rouen; they will have it that the ENGLISH built the
+    Churches." Upon which M. Licquet remarks thus: "M. Dibdin's expression
+    conveys too general an idea. It is true that _popular_ opinion
+    attributes the erection of our gothic edifices to the ENGLISH: but
+    there exists _another_ opinion, which is not deceptive upon this
+    subject." What is meant to be here conveyed? Either the popular
+    opinion is true or false; and it is a matter of perfect indifference
+    to the author whether it be one or the other. For Mons. Licquet's
+    comfort, I will freely avow that I believe it to be _false_.]
+
+[28] [Louis XVIII.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF ARQUES. SABBATH AMUSEMENTS. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
+BOULEVARDS.
+
+
+As I had received especial injunctions from our friend P--- not to leave
+Dieppe without paying a visit to the famous _Chateau d'Arques_[29], in its
+neighbourhood, I resolved to seize the opportunity of a tolerably fair, or
+rather gray-looking day, to go and pay due homage to those venerable
+remains of antiquity. The road thither is completely rural: apple-trees,
+just beginning to burst their blossoms; hamlets, small farm-houses: a
+profusion of rich herbage of various kinds--delighted and regaled me as I
+pursued my tranquil walk. The country is of a gently-undulating character;
+but the flats or meadows, between the parallel ranges of hills, are subject
+to constant inundation from the sea; and in an agricultural point of view
+are consequently of little use, except for summer grazing of the cattle.
+
+It was drawing on to vespers as I approached the _Village of Arques_. The
+old castle had frequently peeped out upon me, in my way thither, from its
+elevated situation; but being resolved to see "all that could be seen," a
+French village, for the first time, was not to be overlooked. For a country
+church, I know of few finer ones than that of Arques.[30]
+
+The site of the castle is admirable. My approach was to the western
+extremity; which, as you look down, brings the village and church of Arques
+in the back ground. If the eye were to be considered as a correct judge,
+this venerable pile, composed of hard flint-stone, intermixed with brick,
+would perhaps claim precedence, on the score of antiquity, over most of the
+castles of the middle ages. A deep moat, now dry pasture land, with a bold
+acclivity before you, should seem to bid defiance, even in times of old, to
+the foot and the spear of the invader. There are circular towers at the
+extremities, and a square citadel or donjon within. To the north, a good
+deal of earth has been recently thrown against the bases of the wall. The
+day harmonised admirably with the venerable object before me. The sunshine
+lasted but for a minute: when afterwards a gloom prevailed, and not a
+single catch of radiant light gilded any portion of the building. All was
+quiet, and of a sombre aspect,--and what _you_, in your admiration of art,
+would call in perfectly "fine keeping."
+
+I descended the hill, bidding a long adieu to this venerable relic of the
+hardihood of other times, and quickened my pace towards Dieppe. In gaining
+upon the town, I began to discern groups of rustics, as well as of
+bourgeoises, assembling and mingling in the dance. The women never think of
+wearing bonnets, and you have little idea how picturesquely the red and
+blue[31] (the colours of Raffaelle's Madonnas) glanced backwards and
+forwards amidst the fruit trees, to the sound of the spirit-stirring
+violin. The high, stiff, starched cauchoise, with its broad flappers, gave
+the finishing stroke to the novelty and singularity of the scene; and to
+their credit be it spoken, the women were much more tidily dressed than the
+men. The couples are frequently female, for want of a sufficient number of
+swains; but, whether correctly or incorrectly paired, they dance with
+earnestness, if not with grace. It was a picture a la Teniers, without its
+occasional grossness. This then, said I to myself, is what I have so often
+heard of the sabbath-gambols of the French--and long may they enjoy them!
+They are surely better than the brutal orgies of the pot-house, or the
+fanatical ravings of the tabernacle.[32]
+
+A late plain dinner, with my favourite vin ordinaire, recruited my
+strength, and kept me in perfectly good humour with Dieppe.
+
+The deportment of the _Dieppois_[33] towards the English, is, upon the
+whole, rather gracious than otherwise; because the town profits by the
+liberality and love of expense of the latter. Yet the young ones, as soon
+as they can lisp, are put in training for pronouncing the _G---- d----_;
+and a few horribly-deformed and importunate beggars are for ever assailing
+the doors of the hotels. But beggary is nothing like so frightful an evil
+as I had anticipated. The general aspect of the town seems to indicate the
+poverty of the inhabitants; their houses being too large to be entirely
+occupied. Bonaparte appears to have been anxious about the strengthening of
+the harbour; the navigation into which is somewhat difficult and intricate.
+The sides of the walls, as you enter, are lofty, steep, and strong; and
+raised batteries would render any hostile approach extremely hazardous to
+the assailants.
+
+There is no ship-building at this moment going on: the ribs of about half a
+dozen, half rotted, small merchant-craft, being all that is discernible.
+But much is projected, and much is hoped from such projects. Dieppe has
+questionless many local advantages both by land and by sea; yet it will
+require a long course of years to infuse confidence and beget a love of
+enterprise. In spite of all the _naval zeal_, it is here exhibited chiefly
+as affording means of subsistence from the fisheries. I must not however
+conclude my Dieppe journal without telling you that I hunted far and near
+for a good bookseller and for some old books--but found nothing worth the
+search, except a well-printed early _Rouen Missal_, and _Terence_ by
+_Badius Ascensius_. The booksellers are supplied with books chiefly from
+Rouen; the local press being too insignificant to mention.
+
+
+[29] The French Antiquaries have pushed the antiquity of this castle to the
+    11th century, supposing it to have been built by _William d'Arques_,
+    Count of Tallon, son of the second marriage of Richard Duke of
+    Normandy. I make no doubt, that, whenever built, the sea almost washed
+    its base: for it is known to have occupied the whole of what is called
+    the _Valley of Arques_, running as far as _Bouteilles_. Its position,
+    in reference to the art of war, must have been almost impregnable.
+    Other hypotheses assign its origin to the ninth or tenth century.
+    Whenever built, its history has been fertile in sieges. In 1144, it
+    was commanded by a Flemish Monk, who preferred the spear to the
+    crosier, but who perished by an arrow in the contest. Of its history,
+    up to the sixteenth century, I am not able to give any details; but in
+    the wars of Henry IV. with the League, in 1589, it was taken by
+    surprise by soldiers in the disguise of sailors: who, killing the
+    centinels, quickly made themselves masters of the place. Henry caused
+    it afterwards to be dismantled. In the first half of the eighteenth
+    century it received very severe treatment from pillage, for the
+    purpose of erecting public and private buildings at Dieppe. At present
+    (in the language of the author of the _Rouen Itinerary_) "it is the
+    abode of silence--save when that silence is interrupted by owls and
+    other nocturnal birds." The view of it in Mr. Cotman's work is very
+    faithful.
+
+[30] The _Itineraire de Rouen_, 1816, p. 202, says, absurdly, that
+    this church is of the XIth century. It is perhaps with more truth of
+    the beginning of the XIVth century. A pleasing view of it is in Mr.
+    Dawson Turner's elegant Tour in Normandy, 1818, 8vo. 2 vol. It
+    possessed formerly a bust of Henry IV., which is supposed to have been
+    placed there after the famous battle of Arques gained by Henry over
+    the Duke of Mayenne in 1589.
+
+[31] The blue gown and red petticoat; or vice versa.
+
+[32] [I am anxious that the above sentence should stand precisely as it
+    appeared in the first edition of this work; because a circumstance has
+    arisen from it, which could have been as little in the anticipation,
+    as it is in the comprehension, of the author. A lady, of high
+    connections, and of respectable character, conceived the passage in
+    question to be somewhat indecorous; or revolting to the serious sense
+    entertained by all Christians, and especially by CHRISTIAN MINISTERS,
+    of the mode of devoting the Sabbath day. In consequence, being in
+    possession of a copy of this work, she DIVIDED it into two; not being
+    willing to sully the splendour of the plates by the supposed impurity
+    of such a passage:--and the prints were accordingly bound APART. The
+    passage--as applied to the FRENCH PEOPLE--requires neither comment nor
+    qualification; and in the same unsophisticated view of religious
+    duties, the _latter_ part may be as strictly applied to the
+    ENGLISH.]
+
+[33] The dress of the _sailors_ is the same as it was in the XIVth
+    century; and so probably is that of the women. The illuminations in
+    Froissard and Monstrelet clearly give us the Norman cauchoise.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+ROUEN. APPROACH. BOULEVARDS. POPULATION. STREET SCENERY.
+
+
+Here I am, my excellent good friend, in the most extraordinary city in the
+world. One rubs one's eyes, and fancies one is dreaming, upon being carried
+through the streets of this old-fashioned place: or that, by some secret
+talismanic touch, we are absolutely mingling with human beings, and objects
+of art, at the commencement of the sixteenth century: so very curious, and
+out of the common appearance of things, is almost every object connected
+with ROUEN. But before I commence my observations upon the _town_, I must
+give you a brief sketch of my _journey_ hither. We had bespoke our places
+in the cabriolet of the Diligence, which just holds three tolerably
+comfortable; provided there be a disposition to accommodate each other.
+This cabriolet, as you have been often told, is a sort of a buggy, or
+phaeton seat, with a covering of leather in the front of the coach. It is
+fortified with a stiff leathern apron, upon the top of which is a piece of
+iron, covered with the leather, to fasten firmly by means of a hook on the
+perpendicular supporter of the head. There are stiffish leathern curtains
+on each side, to be drawn, if necessary, as a protection against the rain,
+&c. You lean upon the bar, or top of this leathern apron, which is no very
+uncomfortable resting-place. And thus we took leave of Dieppe, on the 4th
+day after our arrival there. As we were seated in the cabriolet, we could
+hardly refrain from loud laughter at the novelty of our situation, and the
+grotesqueness of the conveyance. Our Postilion was a rare specimen of his
+species, and a perfectly _unique copy_. He fancied himself, I suppose,
+rather getting "into the vale of years," and had contrived to tinge his
+cheeks with a plentiful portion of rouge.[34] His platted and powdered hair
+was surmounted with a battered black hat, tricked off with faded ribband:
+his jacket was dark blue velvet, with the insignia of his order (the royal
+arms) upon his left arm. What struck me as not a little singular, was, that
+his countenance was no very faint resemblance of that of _Voltaire_, when
+he might have been verging towards his sixtieth year. Most assuredly he
+resembled him in his elongated chin, and the sarcastic expression of his
+mouth. We rolled merrily along--the horses sometimes spreading, and
+sometimes closing, according to the size of the streets through which we
+were compelled to pass. The reins and harness are of _cord_; which, however
+keep together pretty well. The postilion endeavours to break the rapidity
+of the descent by conducting the wheels over small piles of gravel or
+rubbish, which are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch; so that,
+to those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlooking the whole process, the
+effect, with weak nerves, is absolutely terrific. They stop little in
+changing horses, and the Diligence is certainly well managed, and in
+general no accidents occur.
+
+The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and in excellent condition.
+There are few or no hedges, but rows of apple-trees afford a sufficient
+line of demarkation. The country is open, and gently undulating; with
+scarcely any glimpses of what is called forest-scenery, till you get
+towards the conclusion of the first stage. Nothing particularly strikes you
+till you approach _Malaunai_, within about half a dozen miles of Rouen, and
+of course after the last change of horses. The environs of this beautiful
+village repay you for every species of disappointment, if any should have
+been experienced. The rising banks of a brisk serpentine trout stream are
+studded with white houses, in which are cotton manufactories that appear to
+be carried on with spirit and success. Above these houses are hanging
+woods; and though the early spring would scarcely have coated the branches
+with green in our own country, yet _here_ there was a general freshness of
+verdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the apple; altogether
+rejoicing the eye and delighting the heart. Occasionally there were
+delicious spots, which the taste and wealth of an Englishman would have
+embellished to every possible degree of advantage. But wealth, for the
+gratification of picturesque taste, is a superfluity that will not quickly
+fall to the lot of the French. The Revolution seems to have drained their
+purses, as well as daunted their love of enterprise. Along the road-side
+there were some few houses of entertainment; and we observed the emptied
+cabriolet and stationary voiture, by the side of the gardens, where
+Monsieur and Madame, with their families, tripped lightly along the vistas,
+and tittered as John Bull saluted them. Moving vehicles, and numerous
+riding and walking groups, increased upon us; and every thing announced
+that we were approaching a _great and populous city_.
+
+The approach to ROUEN is indeed magnificent. I speak of the immediate
+approach; after you reach the top of a considerable rise, and are stopped
+by the barriers. You then look down a strait, broad, and strongly paved
+road, lined with a double row of trees on each side. As the foliage was not
+thickly set, we could discern, through the delicately-clothed branches, the
+tapering spire of the CATHEDRAL, and the more picturesque tower of the
+ABBAYE ST. OUEN--with hanging gardens, and white houses, to the
+left--covering a richly cultivated ridge of hills, which sink as it were
+into the _Boulevards_, and which is called the _Faubourg Cauchoise_. To the
+right, through the trees, you see the river SEINE (here of no despicable
+depth or breadth) covered with boats and vessels in motion: the voice of
+commerce, and the stir of industry, cheering and animating you as you
+approach the town. I was told that almost every vessel which I saw (some of
+them of two hundred, and even of three hundred tons burthen) was filled
+with brandy and wine. The lamps are suspended from the centre of long
+ropes, across the road; and the whole scene is of a truly novel and
+imposing character. But how shall I convey to you an idea of what I
+experienced, as, turning to the left, and leaving the broader streets which
+flank the quay, I began to enter the _penetralia_ of this truly antiquated
+town? What narrow streets, what overhanging houses, what bizarre,
+capricious ornaments! What a mixture of modern with ancient art! What
+fragments, or rather ruins, of old delicately-built Gothic churches! What
+signs of former and of modern devastation! What fountains, gutters, groups
+of never-ceasing men, women, and children, all gay, all occupied, and all
+apparently happy! The _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_ (so called from a huge,
+clumsy, antiquated clock which goes across it) struck me as being not among
+the least singular streets of Rouen. In five minutes I was within the
+court-yard of the _Hotel Vatel_, the favourite residence of the English.
+
+It was evening when I arrived, in company with three Englishmen. We were
+soon saluted by the _laquais de place_--the leech-like hangers-on of every
+hotel--who begged to know if we would walk upon the Boulevards. We
+consented; turned to the right; and, gradually rising, gained a
+considerable eminence. Again we turned to the right, walking upon a raised
+promenade; while the blossoms of the pear and apple trees, within a hundred
+walled gardens, perfumed the air with a delicious fragrance. As we
+continued our route along the _Boulevard Beauvoisine_, we gained one of the
+most interesting and commanding views imaginable of the city of Rouen--just
+at that moment lighted up by the golden rays of a glorious sun-set--which
+gave a breadth and a mellower tone to the shadows upon the Cathedral and
+the Abbey of St. Ouen. The situation of Rouen renders it necessarily
+picturesque, view it from what spot you will.
+
+The population of Rouen is supposed to be full one hundred thousand souls.
+In truth, there is no end to the succession of human beings. They swarm
+like bees, and like bees are busy in bringing home the produce of their
+industry. You have all the bustle and agitation of Cheapside and Cornhill;
+only that the ever-moving scene is carried on within limits one-half as
+broad. Conceive Bucklersbury, Cannon-street, and Thames-street,--and yet
+you cannot conceive the narrow streets of Rouen: filled with the flaunting
+cauchoise, and echoing to the eternal tramp of the sabot. There they are;
+men, women, and children--all abroad in the very centre of the streets:
+alternately encountering the splashing of the gutter, and the jostling of
+their townsmen--while the swift cabriolet, or the slow-paced cart, or the
+thundering _Diligence_, severs them, and scatters them abroad, only that
+they may seem to be yet more condensely united. For myself, it is with
+difficulty I believe that I am not living in the times of our Henry VIII.
+and of their Francis I.; and am half disposed to inquire after the
+residence of _Guillaume Tailleur_ the printer--the associate, or foreign
+agent of your favourite _Pynson_.[35]
+
+
+[34] [Mons. Licquet here observes, "This is the first time I have heard it
+    said that our Postilions put on rouge." What he adds, shall be given
+    in his own pithy expression.--"Ou la coquetterie va-t-elle se nicher?"
+    What, however is above stated, was stated from a _conviction_ of
+    its being TRUE]
+
+[35] [The third English Printer.] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_,
+    vol. ii. p. 137, 8.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. CATHEDRAL. MONUMENTS. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES.
+THE ABBEY OF ST. OUEN. THE CHURCHES OF ST. MACLOU, ST. VINCENT, ST. VIVIEN,
+ST. GERVAIS, AND ST. PAUL.
+
+
+I have now made myself pretty well acquainted with the geography of Rouen.
+How shall I convey to you a summary, and yet a satisfactory, description of
+it? It cannot be done. You love old churches, old books, and relics of
+ancient art. These be my themes, therefore: so fancy yourself either
+strolling leisurely with me, arm in arm, in the streets--or sitting at my
+elbow. First for THE CATHEDRAL:--for what traveller of taste does not doff
+his bonnet to the _Mother Church_ of the town through which he happens to
+be travelling--or in which he takes up a temporary abode? The
+west-front,[36] always the _forte_ of the architect's skill, strikes you as
+you go down, or come up, the principal street--_La Rue des Carmes_,--which
+seems to bisect the town into equal parts. A small open space, (which
+however has been miserably encroached upon by petty shops) called the
+_Flower-garden_, is before this western front; so that it has some little
+breathing room in which to expand its beauties to the wondering eyes of the
+beholder. In my poor judgment, this western front has very few elevations
+comparable with it[37]--including even those of _Lincoln_ and _York_. The
+ornaments, especially upon the three porches, between the two towers, are
+numerous, rich, and for the greater part entire:--in spite of the
+Calvinists,[38] the French revolution, and time. Among the lower and
+smaller basso-relievos upon these porches, is the subject of the daughter
+of Herodias dancing before Herod. She is manoeuvering on her hands, her
+feet being upwards. To the right, the decapitation of St. John is taking
+place.
+
+The southern transept makes amends for the defects of the northern. The
+space before it is devoted to a sort of vegetable market: curious old
+houses encircle this space: and the ascent to the door, but more especially
+the curiously sculptured porch itself, with the open spaces in the upper
+part--light, fanciful and striking to a degree--produce an effect as
+pleasing as it is extraordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet of
+devotees, going in and coming out--the worn pavement, and the frittered
+ornaments, in consequence--seem to convince you that the ardour and
+activity of devotion is almost equal to that of business.[39]
+
+As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by descending two steps,
+you are struck with the length and loftiness of the nave, and with the
+lightness of the gallery which runs along the upper part of it. Perhaps the
+nave is too narrow for its length. The lantern of the central large tower
+is beautifully light and striking. It is supported by four massive
+clustered pillars, about forty feet in circumference;[40] but on casting
+your eye downwards, you are shocked at the tasteless division of the choir
+from the nave by what is called a _Grecian screen_: and the interior of the
+transepts has undergone a like preposterous restoration. The rose windows
+of the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave, merit your
+attention and commendation. I could not avoid noticing, to the right, upon
+entrance, perhaps the oldest side chapel in the cathedral: of a date,
+little less ancient than that of the northern tower; and perhaps of the end
+of the twelfth century. It contains by much the finest specimens of stained
+glass--of the early part of the XVIth century. There is also some beautiful
+stained glass on each side of the Chapel of the Virgin,[41] behind the
+choir; but although very ancient, it is the less interesting, as not being
+composed of groups, or of historical subjects. Yet, in this, as in almost
+all the churches which I have seen, frightful devastations have been made
+among the stained-glass windows by the fury of the Revolutionists.[42]
+
+Respecting the MONUMENTS, you ought to know that the famous ROLLO lies in
+one of the side-chapels, farther down to the right, upon entering; although
+his monument cannot be older than the thirteenth century. My attachment to
+the bibliomanical celebrity of JOHN, DUKE OF BEDFORD, will naturally lead
+me to the notice of his interment and monumental inscription. The latter is
+thus;
+
+    _Ad dextrum Altaris Latus_
+
+    _Jacet_
+
+    IOANNES DUX BETFORDI
+
+    _Normanniae pro Rex_
+
+    _Obiit Anno_
+
+    MCCCCXXXV.
+
+The Duke's tomb will be seen engraved in Sandford's Genealogical
+History,[43] p. 314; which plate, in fact, is the identical one used by
+Ducarel; who had the singularly good fortune to decorate his Anglo-Norman
+Antiquities without any expense to himself![44]
+
+There is a curious chapter in Pommeraye's _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedrale
+de Rouen_, p. 203, respecting the Duke's taking the habit of a canon of the
+cathedral. He attended, with his first wife, ANNE OF BURGUNDY, and threw
+himself upon the liberality and kindness of the monks, to be received by
+them as one of their order: "il les prioit d'etre receu parmy eux comme un
+de leurs freres, et d'avoir tous les jours distribution de pain et de vin,
+et pour marque de fraternite d'etre vetu du surplis et de l'aumusse: comme
+aussi d'etre associe, luy et sa tres genereuse et tres illustre epouse, aux
+suffrages de leur compagnie, et a la participation de tous les biens qu'il
+plaira a Dieu leur donner la grace d'operer," p. 204. A grand procession
+marked the day of the Duke's admission into the monkish fraternity. The
+whole of this, with an account of the Duke's superb presents to the
+sacristy, his dining with his Duchess, and receiving their portion of
+"eight loaves and four gallons of wine," are distinctly narrated by the
+minute Pommeraye.
+
+As you approach the _Chapel of the Virgin_, you pass by an ancient
+monument, to the left, of a recumbent Bishop, reposing behind a thin
+pillar, within a pretty ornamented Gothic arch.[45] To the eye of a
+tasteful antiquary this cannot fail to have its due attraction. While
+however we are treading upon hallowed ground, rendered if possible more
+sacred by the ashes of the illustrious dead, let us move gently onwards
+towards the _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir. See, what bold and
+brilliant monumental figures are yonder, to the right of the altar! How
+gracefully they kneel and how devoutly they pray! They are the figures of
+the CARDINALS D'AMBOISE--uncle and nephew:--the former, minister of Louis
+XII.[46] and (what does not necessarily follow, but what gives him as high
+a claim upon the gratitude of posterity) the restorer and beautifier of the
+glorious building in which you are contemplating his figure. This splendid
+monument is entirely of black and white marble, of the early part of the
+sixteenth century. The figures just mentioned are of white marble, kneeling
+upon cushions, beneath a rich canopy of Gothic fretwork. They are in their
+professional robes; their heads are bare, exhibiting the tonsure, with the
+hair in one large curl behind. A small whole-length figure of _St. George_,
+their tutelary saint, is below them, in gilded marble: and the whole base,
+or lower frieze, of the monument, is surrounded by six delicately
+sculptured females, about three feet high, emblematic of the virtues for
+which these cardinals were so eminently distinguished. These figures,
+representing Faith, Charity, Prudence, Force, Justice, and Temperance, are
+flanked by eight smaller ones, placed in carved niches; while, above them,
+are the twelve Apostles, not less beautifully executed.[47]
+
+On gazing at this splendid monument of ancient piety and liberality--and
+with one's mind deeply intent upon the characters of the deceased--let us
+fancy we hear the sound of the GREAT BELL from the south-west tower ...
+called the _Amboise Tower_ ... erected, both the bell and the tower, by the
+uncle and minister AMBOISE. Know, my dear friend, that there was _once_ a
+bell, (and the largest in Europe, save one) which used to send forth its
+sound, for three successive centuries, from the said tower. This bell was
+broken about thirty years ago, and destroyed in the ravages of the
+immediately succeeding years.[48] The south-west tower remains, and the
+upper part of the central tower, with the whole of the lofty wooden
+spire:--the fruits of the liberality of the excellent men of whom such
+honourable mention has been made. Considering that this spire is very
+lofty, and composed of wood, _it is surprising that it has not been
+destroyed by tempest, or by lightning_.[49] The taste of it is rather
+capricious than beautiful.
+
+I have not yet done with the monuments, or rather have only commenced the
+account of them.[50] Examine yonder recumbent figure, to the left of the
+altar, opposite the splendid monument upon which I have just been dilating.
+It is lying upon its back, with a ghastly expression of countenance,
+representing the moment when the last breath has escaped from the body. It
+is the figure of the Grand SENESCHAL DE BREZE,[51]--Governor of Rouen, and
+husband of the celebrated DIANE DE POICTIERS--that thus claims our
+attention. This figure is quite naked, lying upon its back, with the right
+hand placed on the stomach, but in an action which indicates _life_--and
+therefore it is in bad taste, as far as truth is concerned; for the head
+being fallen back, much shrunken, and with a ghastly expression of
+countenance--indicating that some time has elapsed since it breathed its
+last--the hand could not rest in this position. The cenotaph is of black
+marble, disfigured by the names of idle visitors who choose to leave such
+impertinent memorials behind. The famous GOUJON is supposed to be the
+sculptor of the figure, which is painfully clever, but it strikes me as
+being too small. At any rate, the arms and body seem to be too strong and
+fleshy for the shrunken and death-stricken expression of the countenance.
+Above the Seneschal, thus prostrate and lifeless, there is another and a
+very clever representation of him, on a smaller scale, on horseback.
+
+On each side of this figure (which has not escaped serious injury) are two
+females in white marble; one representing the VIRGIN, and the other DIANE
+DE POICTIERS:[52] they are little more than half the size of life. The
+whole is in the very best style of the sculpture of the time of Francis I.
+These precious specimens of art, as well as several other similar remains,
+were carried away during the revolution, to a place of safety. The choir is
+spacious, and well adapted to its purposes; but who does not grieve to see
+the Archbishop's stall, once the most curious and costly, of the Gothic
+order, and executed at the end of the XVth century, transformed into a
+stately common-place canopy, supported by columns of chestnut-wood carved
+in the Grecian style? The LIBRARY, which used to terminate the north
+transept, is--not gone--but transferred. A fanciful stair-case, with an
+appropriate inscription,[53] yet attest that it was formerly an appendage
+to that part of the edifice.
+
+Before I quit the subject of the cathedral, I must not fail to tell you
+something relating to the rites performed therein. Let us quit therefore
+the dead for the living. Of course we saw, here, a repetition of the
+ceremonies observed at Dieppe; but previously to the feast of the
+_Ascension_ we were also present at the confirmation of three hundred boys
+and three hundred girls, each very neatly and appropriately dressed, in a
+sort of sabbath attire, and each holding a lighted wax taper in the hand.
+The girls were dressed in white, with white veils; and the rich lent veils
+to those who had not the means of purchasing them. The cathedral,
+especially about the choir, was crowded to excess. I hired a chair, stood
+up, and gazed as earnestly as the rest. The interest excited among the
+parents, and especially the mothers, was very striking. "Voila la
+petite--qu'elle a l'air charmant!--le petit ange!"....A stir is made ...
+they rise... and approach, in the most measured order, the rails of the
+choir ... There they deposit their tapers. The priests, very numerous,
+extinguish them as dexterously as they can; and the whole cathedral is
+perfumed with the mixed scent of the wax and frankincense. The boys, on
+approaching the altar, and giving up their tapers, kneel down; then shut
+their eyes, open their mouths; and the priests deposit the consecrated
+wafer upon their tongues. The procession now took a different direction.
+They all went into the nave, where a sermon was preached to the young
+people, expressly upon the occasion, by a Monsieur Quillebeuf, a canon of
+the cathedral, and a preacher of considerable popularity. He had one of the
+most meagre and forbidding physiognomies I ever beheld, and his beard was
+black and unshaven. But he preached well; fluently, and even eloquently:
+making a very singular, but not ungraceful, use of his left arm--and
+displaying at times rather a happy familiarity of manner, wholly exempt
+from vulgarity, and well suited to the capacities and feelings of his
+youthful audience. His subject was "belief in Christ Jesus;" on which he
+gave very excellent proofs and evidences. His voice was thin, but clear,
+and distinctly heard.
+
+And now, my dear Friend, if you are not tired with this detour of the
+CATHEDRAL, suppose we take a promenade to the next most important
+ecclesiastical edifice in the city of Rouen. What say you therefore to a
+stroll to the ABBEY of ST. OUEN? "Willingly," methinks I hear you reply. To
+the abbey therefore let us go.
+
+Leaving the Cathedral, you pass a beautifully sculptured fountain (of the
+early time of Francis I.) which stands at the corner of a street, to the
+right; and which, from its central situation, is visited the live-long day
+for the sake of its limpid waters. Push on a little further; then, turning
+to the right, you get into a sort of square, and observe the ABBEY--or
+rather the _west-front_ of it, full in face of you. You gaze, and are first
+struck with its matchless window: call it rose, or marygold, as you please.
+I think, for delicacy and richness of ornament, this window is perfectly
+unrivalled. There is a play of line in the mullions, which, considering
+their size and strength, may be pronounced quite a master-piece of art. You
+approach, regretting the neglected state of the lateral towers, and enter,
+through the large and completely-opened centre doors, the nave of the
+Abbey. It was towards sun-set when we made our first entrance. The evening
+was beautiful; and the variegated tints of sun-beam, admitted through the
+stained glass of the window, just noticed, were perfectly enchanting. The
+window itself, as you look upwards, or rather as you fix your eye upon the
+centre of it, from the remote end of the Abbey, or the _Lady's Chapel_, was
+a perfect blaze of dazzling light: and nave, choir, and side aisles, seemed
+magically illumined ...
+
+  Seemed all on fire--within, around;
+  Deep sacristy and altar's pale;
+  Shone every pillar foliage-bound....
+
+  _Lay of the Last Minstrel_.
+
+We declared instinctively that the ABBEY OF ST. OUEN could hardly have a
+rival;--certainly not a superior.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+As the evening came on, the gloom of almost every side chapel and recess
+was rendered doubly impressive by the devotion of numerous straggling
+supplicants; and invocations to the presiding spirit of the place, reached
+the ears and touched the hearts of the bystanders. The grand western
+entrance presents you with the most perfect view of the choir--a magical
+circle, or rather oval--flanked by lofty and clustered pillars, and free
+from the surrounding obstruction of screens, &c. Nothing more airy and more
+captivating of the kind can be imagined. The finish and delicacy of these
+pillars are quite surprising. Above, below, around--every thing is in the
+purest style of the XIVth and XVth centuries. The central tower is a tower
+of beauty as well as of strength. Yet in regard to further details,
+connected with the interior, it must be admitted that there is very little
+more which is deserving of particular description; except it be _the
+gallery_, which runs within the walls of the nave and choir, and which is
+considerably more light and elegant than that of the cathedral. A great
+deal has been said about the circular windows at the end of the south
+transept, and they are undoubtedly elegant: but compared with the one at
+the extremity of the nave, they are rather to be noticed from the tale
+attached to them, than from their positive beauty. The tale, my friend, is
+briefly this. These windows were finished (as well as the larger one at the
+west front) about the year 1439. One of them was executed by the
+master-mason, the other by his apprentice; and on being criticised by
+competent judges, the performance of the _latter_ was said to eclipse that
+of the former. In consequence, the master became jealous and revengeful,
+and actually poniarded his apprentice. He was of course tried, condemned,
+and executed; but an existing monument to his memory attests the humanity
+of the monks in giving him Christian interment.[54] On the whole, it is the
+absence of all obtrusive and unappropriate ornament which gives to the
+interior of this building that light, unencumbered, and faery-like effect
+which so peculiarly belongs to it, and which creates a sensation that I
+never remember to have felt within any other similar edifice.
+
+Let me however put in a word for the _Organ_. It is immense, and perhaps
+larger than that belonging to the Cathedral. The tin pipes (like those of
+the organ in the Cathedral) are of their natural colour. I paced the
+pavement beneath, and think that this organ cannot be short of forty
+English feet in length. Indeed, in all the churches which I have yet seen,
+the organs strike me as being of magnificent dimensions.
+
+You should be informed however that the extreme length of the interior,
+from the further end of the Chapel of the Virgin, to its opposite western
+extremity, is about four hundred and fifty English feet; while the height,
+from the pavement to the roof of the nave, or the choir, is one hundred and
+eight English feet. The transepts are about one hundred and forty feet in
+length. The central tower, upon the whole, is not only the grandest tower
+in Rouen, but there is nothing for its size in our own country that can
+compare with it. It rises upwards of one hundred feet above the roof of the
+church; and is supported below, or rather within, by four magnificent
+cluster-pillared bases, each about thirty-two feet in circumference. Its
+area, at bottom, can hardly be less than thirty-six feet square. The choir
+is flanked by flying buttresses, which have a double tier of small arches,
+altogether "marvellous and curious to behold."
+
+I could not resist stealing quietly round to the porch of the _south
+transept_, and witnessing, in that porch, one of the most chaste, light,
+and lovely specimens of Gothic architecture, which can be contemplated.
+Indeed, I hardly know any thing like it.[55] The leaves of the poplar and
+ash were beginning to mantle the exterior; and, seen through their green
+and gay lattice work, the traceries of the porch seemed to assume a more
+interesting aspect. They are now mending the upper part of the facade with
+new stone of peculiar excellence--but it does not harmonise with the old
+work. They merit our thanks, however, for the preservation of what remains
+of this precious pile. I should remark to you that the eastern and
+north-eastern sides of the abbey of St. Ouen are surrounded with promenades
+and trees: so that, occasionally, either when walking, or sitting upon the
+benches, within these gardens, you catch one of the finest views imaginable
+of the abbey.
+
+At this early season of the year, much company is assembled every evening
+in these walks: while, in front of the abbey, or in the square facing the
+western end, the national guard is exercised in the day time--and troops of
+fair nymphs and willing youths mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening,
+while a platform is erected for the instrumental performers, and for the
+exhibition of feats of legerdemain. You must not take leave of St. Ouen
+without being told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasionally to
+"make revel" within the Abbot's house. Henry II, Charles IX, and Henry III,
+each took a fancy to this spot--but especially the famous HENRI QUATRE. It
+is reported that that monarch sojourned here for four months--- and his
+reply to the address of the aldermen and sheriff of Rouen is yet preserved
+both in MS. and by engravings. "The King having arrived at St. Ouen (says
+an old MS.)[56] the keys of the tower were presented to him, in the
+presence of M. de Montpensier, the governor of the province, upon a
+velvet-cushion. The keys were gilt. The King took them, and replacing them
+in the hands of the governor, said--"Mon cousin, je vous les baille pour
+les rendre, qu'ils les gardent;"--then, addressing the aldermen, he added,
+"Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le meilleur Roi que
+vous ayez jamais eu."
+
+Next to the Abbey of St. Ouen, "go by all means and see the church _St.
+Maclou_"--say your friends and your guides. The Abbe Turquier accompanied
+me thither. The great beauties of St. Maclou are its tower and its porch.
+Of the tower, little more than the lantern remains. This is about 160
+English feet in height. Above it was a belfry or steeple, another 110 feet
+in height, constructed of wood and lead--but which has been nearly
+destroyed for the sake of the lead,--for the purpose of slaughter or
+resistance during the late revolution.[57] The exteriors of the porches are
+remarkable for their elaborate ornaments; especially those in the _Rue
+Martainville._ They are highly praised by the inhabitants, and are supposed
+to be after the models of the famous Goujon. Perhaps they are rather
+encumbered with ornament, and want that quiet effect, and pure good taste,
+which we see in the porches of the Cathedral and of the Abbey St. Ouen.
+However, let critics determine as they will upon this point--they must at
+least unite in reprobating the barbarous edict which doomed these delicate
+pieces of sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming tint of
+staring yellow ochre!
+
+Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only four: two of them chiefly
+remarkable for their interior, and two for their extreme antiquity. Of the
+two former, that of _St. Vincent_ presents you with a noble organ, with a
+light choir profusely gilded, and (rarer accompaniment!) in very excellent
+taste. But the stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is rich,
+varied, and vivid to a degree; and, upon the whole, is the finest specimen
+of this species of art in the present ecclesiastical remains of the city.
+_St. Vivien_ is the second of these two former. It is a fine open church,
+with a large organ, having a very curious wooden screen in front,
+elaborately carved, and, as I conceive, of the very earliest part of the
+sixteenth century. I ascended the organ-loft; and the door happening to be
+open, I examined this screen (which has luckily escaped the yellow-ochre
+edict) very minutely, and was much gratified by the examination. Such
+pieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For the first time,
+within a parish church, I stepped upon the pavement of the choir: walked
+gently forwards, to the echo of my own footsteps, (for not a creature was
+in the church) and, "with no unhallowed hand" I would hope, ventured to
+open the choral or service book, resting upon its stand. It was wide,
+thick, and ponderous: upon vellum: beautifully written and well executed in
+every respect, with the exception of the illuminations which were extremely
+indifferent. I ought to tell you that the doors of the churches, abroad,
+are open at all times of the day: the ancient or more massive door, or
+portal, is secured from shutting; but a temporary, small, shabby wooden
+door, covered with dirty green baize, opening and shutting upon circular
+hinges, just covers the vacuum left by the absence of the larger one.
+
+Of the two ancient churches, above alluded to, that of _St. Gervais_, is
+situated considerably to the north of where the _Boulevards Cauchoise_ and
+_Bouvreuil_ meet. It was hard by this favourite spot, say the Norman
+historians, that the ancient Dukes of Normandy built their country-houses:
+considering it as a _lieu de plaisance._ Here too it was that the Conqueror
+came to breathe his last--desiring to be conveyed thither, from his palace
+in the city, for the benefit of the pure air.[58] I walked with M. Le
+Prevost to this curious church: having before twice seen it. But the
+_Crypt_ is the only thing worth talking about, on the score of antiquity.
+The same accomplished guide bade me remark the extraordinary formation of
+the capitals of the pillars: which, admitting some perversity of taste in a
+rude, Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly of Roman character.
+"Perhaps," said M. Le Prevost, "the last efforts of Roman art previous to
+the relinquishment of the Romans." Among these capitals there is one of the
+perfect Doric order; while in another you discover the remains of two Roman
+eagles. The columns are all of the same height; and totally unlike every
+thing of the kind which I have seen or heard of.
+
+We descended the hill upon which _St. Gervais_ is built, and walked onward
+towards _St. Paul_, situated at the further and opposite end of the town,
+upon a gentle eminence, just above the Banks of the Seine.[59] M. Le
+Prevost was still our conductor. This small edifice is certainly of remote
+antiquity, but I suspect it to be completely Norman. The eastern end is
+full of antiquarian curiosities. We observed something like a Roman mask as
+the centre ornament upon the capital of one of the circular figures; and
+Mr. Lewis made a few slight drawings of one of the grotesque heads in the
+exterior, of which the hair is of an uncommon fashion. The _Saxon whiskers_
+are discoverable upon several of these faces. Upon the whole, it is
+possible that parts of this church may have been built at the latter end of
+the tenth century, after the Normans had made themselves completely masters
+of this part of the kingdom; yet it is more probable that there is no
+vestige left which claims a more ancient date than that of the end of the
+eleventh century. I ought just to notice the church of _St. Sever_,[60]
+supposed by some to be yet more ancient: but I had no opportunity of taking
+a particular survey of it.
+
+Thus much, or rather thus little, respecting the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES
+of Rouen. They merit indeed a volume of themselves. This city could once
+boast of upwards of _thirty parish churches_; of which very nearly a
+_dozen_ have been recently (I mean during the Revolution) converted into
+_warehouses_. It forms a curious, and yet melancholy melange--this strange
+misappropriation of what was formerly held most sacred, to the common and
+lowest purposes of civil life! You enter these warehouses, or offices of
+business, and see the broken shaft, the battered capital, and
+half-demolished altar-piece--the gilded or the painted frieze--in the midst
+of bales of goods--casks, ropes, and bags of cotton: while, without, the
+same spirit of demolition prevails in the fractured column, and tottering
+arch way. Thus time brings its changes and decays--premature as well as
+natural: and the noise of the car-men and injunctions of the clerk are now
+heard, where formerly there reigned a general silence, interrupted only by
+the matin or evening chaunt! I deplored this sort of sacrilegious
+adaptation, to a respectable-looking old gentleman, sitting out of doors
+upon a chair, and smoking his pipe--"c'est dommage, Monsieur, qu'on a
+converti l'eglise a"--He stopped me: raised his left hand: then took away
+his pipe with his right; gave a gentle whiff, and shrugging up his
+shoulders, half archly and half drily exclaimed--"Mais que voulez vous,
+Monsieur?--ce sont des evenemens qu'on ne peut ni prevoir ni prevenir.
+Voila ce que c'est!" Leaving you to moralize upon this comfortable morceau
+of philosophy, consider me ever, &c.
+
+
+[36] A most ample and correct view of this west front will be found in Mr.
+    _Cotman's Norman Antiquities_.
+
+[37] It is about 180 English feet in width, by about 150 in the highest
+    part of its elevation. The plates which I saw at Mr. Frere's,
+    bookseller, upon the Quai de Paris, from the drawings of Langlois,
+    were very inadequate representations of the building.
+
+[38] The ravages committed by the Calvinists throughout nearly the whole of
+    the towns in Normandy, and especially in the cathedrals, towards the
+    year 1560, afford a melancholy proof of the effects of RELIGIOUS
+    ANIMOSITY. But the Calvinists were bitter and ferocious persecutors.
+    Pommeraye, in his quarto volume, _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedrale de
+    Rouen_, 1686, has devoted nearly one hundred pages to an account of
+    Calvinistic depredations.
+
+[39] [Mr. Cotman has a plate of the elevation of the front of this south
+    transept; and a very minute and brilliant one will be found in the
+    previous edition of this Tour--by Mr. Henry le Keux: for which that
+    distinguished Artist received the sum of 100 guineas. The remuneration
+    was well merited.]
+
+[40] [Mons. Licquet says each clustered pillar contains thirty-one
+    columns.]
+
+[41] This chapel is about ninety-five English feet in length, by thirty in
+    width, and sixty in heighth. The sprawling painting by Philippe de
+    Champagne, at the end of it, has no other merit than that of covering
+    so many square feet of wall. The architecture of this chapel is of the
+    XIVth century: the stained glass windows are of the latter end of the
+    XVth. On completing the circuit of the cathedral, one is surprised to
+    count not fewer than _twenty-five_ chapels.
+
+[42] [Mons. Licquet is paraphrastically warm in his version, here. He
+    renders it thus: "les atteintes effroyables du vandalisme
+    revolutionaire," vol. i. p. 64.]
+
+[43] Sandford, after telling us that he thinks there "never was any
+    portraiture" of the Duke, thus sums up his character. "He was justly
+    accounted one of the best generals that ever blossomed out of the
+    royal stem of PLANTAGENET. His valour was not more terrible to his
+    enemies than his memory honourable; for (doubtful whether with more
+    glory to him, or to the speaker) King Lewis the Eleventh being
+    counselled by certain envious persons to deface his tomb (wherein with
+    him, saith one, was buried all English men's good fortune in France)
+    used these indeed princely words: 'What honour shall it be to us, or
+    you, to break this monument, and to pull out of the ground the bones
+    of HIM, whom, in his life time, neither my father nor your
+    progenitors, with all their puissance, were once able to make flie a
+    foot backwarde? who, by his strength, policy and wit kept them all out
+    of the principal dominions of France, and out of this noble duchy of
+    Normandy? Wherefore, I say first, GOD SAVE HIS SOUL; and let his body
+    now lie in rest, which when he was alive, would have disquieted the
+    proudest of us all. And for THIS TOMB, I assure you it is not so
+    worthy or convenient as his honour and acts have deserved.'" p. 314-5,
+    Ed. 1707[A] The famous MISSAL, once in the possession of this
+    celebrated nobleman, and containing the only authenticated portrait of
+    him (which is engraved in the _Bibliog. Decameron_, vol. i. p.
+    cxxxvii.) is now the property of John Milner, Esq. of York Place,
+    Portman Square, who purchased it of the Duke of Marlborough. The Duke
+    had purchased it at the sale of the library of the late James Edwards,
+    Esq. for 687l. 15s.
+
+        [A] [Upon this, Mons. Licquet, with supposed shrewdness and
+        success, remarks,--"All very well: but we must not forget that the
+        innocent Joan of Arc was burnt alive--thanks to this said Duke of
+        Bedford, as every one knows!"]
+
+[44] [A different tale may be told of ONE of his Successors in the same
+    Anglo-Norman pursuit. The expenses attending the graphic
+    embellishments alone of the previous edition of this work, somewhat
+    exceeded the sum of _four thousand seven hundred pounds._ The risk was
+    entirely my own. The result was the loss of about 200l.: exclusively
+    of the expences incurred in travelling about 2000 miles. The
+    _copper-plates_ (notwithstanding every temptation, and many
+    entreaties, to _multiply_ impressions of several of the subjects
+    engraved) were DESTROYED. There may be something more than a mere
+    negative consolation, in finding that the work is RISING in price,
+    although its author has long ceased to partake of any benefit
+    resulting from it.]
+
+[45] A plate of this Monument is published in the Tour of Normandy by
+    Dawson Turner, Esq.
+
+[46] The Cardinal died in his fiftieth year only; and his funeral was
+    graced and honoured by the presence of his royal master. Guicciardini
+    calls him "the oracle and right arm of Louis." Of eight brothers, whom
+    he left behind, four attained to the episcopal rank. His nephew
+    succeeded him as Archbishop. See also _Historia Genealogica Magnatum
+    Franciae_; vol. vii. p. 129; quoted in the _Gallia Christiana_, vol.
+    xi. col. 96.
+
+    It was during the archiepiscopacy of the successor of the nephew of
+    Amboise--namely, that of CHARLES of BOURBON--that the _Calvanistic
+    persecution_ commenced. "Tunc vero coepit civitas, dioecesis,
+    universaque provincia lamentabilem in modum conflictari, saevientibus
+    ob religionis dissidia plusquam civilibus bellis," &c. But then the
+    good Archbishop, however bountiful he might have been towards the poor
+    at _Roncesvalles_, (when he escorted Philip II.'s first wife
+    Elizabeth, daughter of Henry II. to the confines of Spain, after he
+    had married her to that wretched monarch) should not have inflamed the
+    irritated minds of the Calvinists, by BURNING ALIVE, in 1559, _John
+    Cottin_, one of their most eminent preachers, by way of striking
+    terror into the rest! Well might the Chronicler observe, as the
+    result, "novas secta illa in dies acquirebat vires." About 1560-2, the
+    Calvinists got the upper hand; and repaid the Catholics with a
+    vengeance. Charles of Bourbon died in 1590: so that he had an arduous
+    and agitated time of it.
+
+[47] How long will this monument--(matchless of its kind)--continue
+    unrepresented by the BURIN? If Mr. Henry Le Keux were to execute it in
+    his best style, the world might witness in it a piece of Art entirely
+    perfect of its kind. But let the pencils of Messrs. Corbould and Blore
+    be first exercised on the subject. In the mean while, why is GALLIC
+    ART inert?
+
+[48] The choir was formerly separated from the surrounding chapels, or
+    rather from the space between it and the chapels, by a superb brass
+    grating, full of the most beautiful arabesque ornaments--another
+    testimony of the magnificent spirit of the Cardinal and Prime Minister
+    of Louis XII.: whose arms, as well as the figure of his patron, St.
+    George, were seen in the centre of every compartment ... The
+    Revolution has not left a vestige behind!
+
+[49] [In this edition, I put the above passage in _Italics_,--to
+    mark, that, within three years of writing it, the spire was consumed
+    by LIGHTNING. The newspapers of both France and England were full of
+    this melancholy event; and in the year 1823, Monsieur Hyacinthe
+    Langlois, of Rouen, published an account of it, together with some
+    views (indifferently lithographised) of the progress of the burning.
+    "It should seem (says Mons. Licquet) that the author had a
+    presentiment of what was speedily to take place:--for the rest, the
+    same species of destruction threatens all similar edifices, for the
+    want of conductors." I possess a fragment of the lead of the roof, as
+    it was collected after a state of _fusion_--and sent over to me
+    by some friend at Rouen. The fusion has caused portions of the lead to
+    assume a variety of fantastic shapes--not _altogether_ unlike a
+    gothic building.]
+
+[50] Let me add that the whole length of the cathedral is about four
+    hundred and forty feet; and the transept about one hundred and
+    seventy-five; English measure. The height of the nave is about ninety,
+    and of the lantern one hundred and sixty-eight feet, English. The
+    length of the nave is two hundred and twenty-eight feet.
+
+[51] He died in 1531. Both the ancient and yet existing inscriptions are
+    inserted by Gilbert, from Pommeraye and Farin; and formerly there was
+    seen, in the middle of the monument, the figure of the Seneschal
+    habited as a Count, with all the insignia of his dignity. But this did
+    not outlive the Revolution.
+
+[52] It must be admitted that Diana, when she caused the verses
+
+      _Indivulsa tibi quondam et fidissima conjux
+      Vt fuit in thalamo, sic erit in tumulo_.
+
+    to be engraved upon the tomb of the Seneschal, might well have "moved
+    the bile" of the pious Benedictine Pommeraye, and have excited the
+    taunting of Ducarel, when they thought upon her subsequent connexion,
+    in the character of mistress, with Henry the Second of France. Henry
+    however endeavoured to compensate for his indiscretions by the pomp
+    and splendor of his processions. Rouen, so celebrated of old for the
+    entries of Kings and Nobles, seems to have been in a perfect blaze of
+    splendor upon that of the Lover of Diana--"qui fut plus magnifique que
+    toutes celles qu'on avoit vu jusqu'alors:" see _Farin's Hist. de la
+    Ville de Rouen_, vol. i. p. 121, where there is a singularly minute
+    and gay account of all the orders and degrees of citizens--(with their
+    gorgeous accoutrements of white plumes, velvet hats, rich brocades,
+    and curiously wrought taffetas) of whom the processions were composed.
+    It must have been a perfectly dramatic sight, upon the largest
+    possible scale. It was from respect to the character or the memory of
+    DIANA, that so many plaster-representations of her were erected on the
+    exteriors of buildings: especially of those within small squares or
+    quadrangles. In wandering about Rouen, I stumbled upon several old
+    mansions of this kind.
+
+[53] The inscription is this:
+
+      _Si quem sancta tenet meditandi in lege voluntas,
+      Hic poterit residens, sacris intendere libris_.
+
+    Pommeraye has rather an interesting gossiping chapter [Chap. xxii.]
+    "De la Bibliotheque de la Cathedrale;" p. 163: to which FRANCOIS DE
+    HARLAY, about the year 1630, was one of the most munificent
+    benefactors.
+
+[54] _Christian interment_.]--"Les Religieux de Saint Ouen touchez de
+    compassion envers ce malheureux artisan, obtinrent son corps de la
+    justice, et pour reconnoissance des bons services qu'il leur avoit
+    rendus dans la construction de leur eglise, nonobstant sa fin
+    tragique, ne laisserent pas de luy fair l'honneur de l'inhumer dans la
+    chapelle de sainte Agnes, ou sa tombe se voit encore auec cet
+    Epitaphe:
+
+        _Cy gist_ M. ALEXANDRE DE BERNEUAL,
+        _Maistre des oeuvres de Massonnerie._
+
+[55] Even Dr. Ducarel became warm--on contemplating this porch! "The porch
+    at the south entrance into the church (says he) is much more worthy of
+    the spectator's attention, being highly enriched with architectonic
+    ornaments; particularly two beautiful cul de lamps, which from the
+    combination of a variety of spiral dressings, as they hang down from
+    the vaulted roof, produce a very pleasing effect." p. 28.
+
+[56] Consult the account given by M. Le Prevost in the "_Precis
+    Analytique des Travaux de l'Academie, &c. de Rouen_," for the year
+    1816, p. 151, &c.
+
+[57] Farin tells us that you could go from the top of the lantern to the
+    cross, or to the summit of the belfry, "outside, without a ladder; so
+    admirable was the workmanship." "Strangers (adds he) took models of it
+    for the purpose of getting them engraved, and they were sold publicly
+    at Rome." _Hist. de la Ville de Rouen_, 1738, 4to. vol. ii. p. 154.
+    There are thirteen chapels within this church; of which however the
+    building cannot be traced lower than quite the beginning of the XVIth
+    century. The extreme length and width of the interior is about 155 by
+    82 feet English. Even in Du Four's time the population of this parish
+    was very great, and its cemetery (adds he) was the first and most
+    regular in Rouen. He gives a brief, but glowing description of it--"on
+    va tout autour par des galeries couvertes et pavees; et, deux de ces
+    galeries sont decorees de deux autels," &c. p. 150.
+
+    Alas! time--or the revolution--has annihilated all this. Let me
+    however add that M. COTMAN has published a view of the _staircase_ in
+    the church of which I am speaking.
+
+[58] Ordericus Vitalis says, that the dying monarch requested to be
+    conveyed thither, to avoid the noise and bustle of a populous town.
+    Rouen is described to be, in _his_ time, "populosa civitas."
+    Consult Duchesne's _Historiae Normannor. Scrip. Antiq._ p.656.
+
+[59] A view of it is published by M. Cotman.
+
+[60] _St. Sever_. This church is situated in the southern fauxbourgs,
+    by the side of the Seine, and was once surrounded by gardens, &c. As
+    you cross the bridge of boats, and go to the race-ground, you leave it
+    to the right; but it is not so old as _St. Paul_--where, Farin says,
+    the worship of ADONIS was once performed!
+
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+HALLES DE COMMERCE. PLACE DE LA PUCELLE D'ORLEANS (JEANNE D'ARC.)
+BASSO-RILIEVO OF THE CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR. PALACE AND COURTS OF JUSTICE.
+
+
+You must make up your mind to see a few more sights in the city of Rouen,
+before I conduct you to the environs, or to the summit of _Mont St.
+Catherine_. We must visit some relics of antiquity, and take a yet more
+familiar survey of the town, ere we strive
+
+  ... superas evadere ad auras.
+
+Indeed the information to be gained well merits the toil endured in its
+acquisition. The only town in England that can give you any notion of
+Rouen, is CHESTER; although the similitude holds only in some few
+particulars. I must, in the first place then, make especial mention of the
+HALLES DE COMMERCE. The _markets_ here are numerous and abundant, and are
+of all kinds. Cloth, cotton, lace, linen, fish, fruit, vegetables, meat,
+corn, and wine; these for the exterior and interior of the body. Cattle,
+wood, iron, earthenware, seeds, and implements of agriculture; these for
+the supply of other necessities considered equally important. Each market
+has its appropriate site. For picturesque effect, you must visit the _Vieux
+Marche_, for vegetables and fish; which is kept in an open space, once
+filled by the servants and troops of the old Dukes of Normandy, having the
+ancient ducal palace in front. This is the fountain head whence the minor
+markets are supplied. Every stall has a large old tattered sort of umbrella
+spread above it, to ward off the rain or rays of heat; and, seen from some
+points of view, the effect of all this, with the ever-restless motion of
+the tongues and feet of the vendors, united to their strange attire, is
+exceedingly singular and interesting.
+
+Leaving the old market place, you pass on to the _Marche Neuf_, where
+fruits, eggs, and butter are chiefly sold. At this season of the year there
+is necessarily little or no fruit, but I could have filled one coat pocket
+with eggs for less than half a franc. While on the subject of buying and
+selling, let us go to the _Halles_ of _Rouen_; being large public buildings
+now exclusively appropriated to the sale of cloths, linen, and the varied
+_et-ceteras_ of mercery. These are at once spacious and interesting in a
+high degree. They form the divisions of the open spaces, or squares, where
+the markets just mentioned are held; and were formerly the appurtenances of
+the palaces and chateaux of the old Dukes of Normandy: the _latter_ of
+which are now wholly demolished. You must rise betimes on a Friday morning,
+to witness a sight of which you can have no conception in England: unless
+it be at a similar scene in _Leeds_. By six o'clock the busy world is in
+motion within these halls. Then commences the incessant and inconceivable
+vociferation of buying and selling. The whole scene is alive, and carried
+on in several large stone-arched rooms, supported by a row of pillars in
+the centre. Of these halls, the largest is about three hundred and twenty
+English feet in length, by fifty-five in width. The centre, in each
+division, contains tables and counters for the display of cloth, cotton,
+stuff, and linen of all descriptions. The display of divers colours--the
+commendations bestowed by the seller, and the reluctant assent of the
+purchaser--the animated eye of the former, and the calculating brow of the
+latter--the removal of one set of wares, and the bringing on of another--in
+short, the never-ceasing succession of sounds and sights astonishes the
+gravity of an Englishman; whose astonishment is yet heightened by the
+extraordinary good humour which every where prevails. The laugh, the joke,
+the equivoque, and reply, were worth being recorded in pointed metre;--and
+what metre but that of Crabbe could possibly render it justice? By nine of
+the clock all is hushed. The sale is over: the goods are cleared; and both
+buyers and sellers have quitted the scene.
+
+From _still_, let me conduct you to _active_ life. In other words, let us
+hasten to take a peep at the _Horse and Cattle Market_; which is fixed in
+the very opposite part of the town; that is, towards the northern
+Boulevards. The horses are generally entire: and indeed you have scarcely
+any thing in England which exceeds the _Norman horse_, properly so
+understood. This animal unites the hardiness of the mule with the strength
+of his own particular species. He is also docile, and well trained; and a
+Norman, from pure affection, thinks he can never put enough harness upon
+his back. I have seen the face and shoulders of a cart-horse almost buried
+beneath a profusion of ornament by way of collar; and have beheld a
+farmer's horse, led out to the plough, with trappings as gorgeous and
+striking as those of a General's charger brought forward for a review. The
+carts and vehicles are usually balanced in the centre upon two wheels,
+which diminishes much of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of the
+wheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently projecting: while the
+eternally loud cracking of the whip is most repulsive to nervous ears. On
+market days, the horses stand pretty close to each other for sale; and are
+led off, for shew, amidst boys, girls, and women, who contrive very
+dexterously to get out of the way of their active hoofs. The French seem to
+have an instinctive method of doing that, which, with ourselves, seems to
+demand forethought and deliberation.
+
+Of the STREETS, in this extraordinary city, that of the _Great Clock--(Rue
+de la Grosse Horloge)_ which runs in a straight line from the western front
+of the Cathedral, at right angles with the _Rue des Carmes_, is probably
+the most important, ancient, and interesting. When we were conveyed, on our
+entrance, (in the cabriolet of the Diligence) beneath the arch to the upper
+part of which this old fashioned clock is attached, we were lost in
+admiration at the singularity of the scene. The inhabitants saw, and
+enjoyed, our astonishment. There is a fountain beneath, or rather on one
+side of this arch; over which is sculptured a motley group of insipid
+figures, of the latter time of Louis XIV. The old tower near this clock
+merits a leisurely survey: as do also some old houses, to the right, on
+looking at it. It was within this old tower that a bell was formerly
+tolled, at nine o'clock each evening, to warn the inhabitants abroad to
+return within the walls of the city.[61]
+
+Turning to the left, in this street, and going down a sharp descent, we
+observed a stand of hackney coaches in a small square, called _La Place de
+la Pucelle_: that is, the place where the famous JEANNE D'ARC[62] was
+imprisoned, and afterwards burnt. What sensations possess us as we gaze on
+each surrounding object!--although, now, each surrounding object has
+undergone a palpable change! Ah, my friend--what emotions were _once_
+excited within this small space! What curiosity, and even agony of mind,
+mingled with the tumults of indignation, the shouts of revenge, and the
+exclamations of pity! But life now goes on just the same as if nothing of
+the kind had happened here. The past is forgotten. This hapless Joan of Arc
+is one of the many, who, having been tortured as heretics, have been
+afterwards reverenced as martyrs. Her statue was, not very long after her
+execution, almost _adored_ upon that very spot where her body had been
+consigned with execrations to the flames. The square, in which this statue
+stands, contains probably one of the very oldest houses in Rouen--and as
+interesting as it is ancient. It is invisible from without: but you open a
+wooden gate, and quickly find yourself within a small quadrangle, having
+three of its sides covered with basso-rilievo figures in plaster. That side
+which faces you is evidently older than the left: indeed I have no
+hesitation in assigning it to the end of the XVth century. The clustered
+ornaments of human figures and cattle, with which the whole of the exterior
+is covered, reminds us precisely of those numerous little wood-cut figures,
+chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of printed missals of the
+same period. The taste which prevails in them is half French and half
+Flemish. Not so is the character of the plaster figures which cover the
+_left_ side on entering. These, my friend, are no less than the
+representation of the procession of Henry VIII. and Francis I. to the
+famous CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR: of which Montfaucon[63] has published
+engravings. Having carefully examined this very curious relic, of the
+beginning of the sixteenth century, I have no hesitation in pronouncing the
+copy of Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed by him) to be most
+egregiously faithless. I visited it again and again, considering it to be
+worth all the "huge clocks" in Rouen put together. I hardly know how to
+take you from this interesting spot--from this exhibition of beautiful old
+art--especially too when I consider that Francis himself once occupied the
+mansion, and held a Council here, with both English and French; that his
+bugles once sounded from beneath the gate way, and that his goblets once
+sparkled upon the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope and trust
+that the Royal Academy of Rouen, will not suffer this architectural relic
+to perish, without leaving behind a substantial and faithful representation
+of it.[64]
+
+While upon the subject of ancient edifices, let me return; and, crossing
+the _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_, contrive to place you in the centre of the
+square which is formed by the PALAIS DE JUSTICE. The inhabitants consider
+this building as the principal _lion_ in their city. It has indeed claims
+to notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a critic
+in Gothic architecture. It was partly erected by Louis XII. at the entreaty
+of the provincial States, through the interest of the famous Cardinal
+d'Amboise, and partly by Francis I. This building precisely marks the
+restoration of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar style of
+architecture which prevailed in the reign of Francis I. To say the truth,
+this style, however sparkling and imposing, is objectionable in many
+respects: for it is, in the first place, neither pure Gothic nor pure
+Grecian--but an injudicious mixture of both. Greek arabesque borders are
+running up the sides of a portal terminating in a Gothic arch; and the
+Gothic ornaments themselves are not in the purest, or the most pleasing,
+taste. Too much is given to parts, and too little to the whole. The
+external ornaments are frequently heavy, from their size and elaborate
+execution; and they seem to be _stuck on_ to the main building without
+rhyme or reason.
+
+The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the right, and the prisoners
+are confined in the lower part of the building to the left: above which you
+mount by a flight of stone steps, which conducts you to a singularly
+curious hall,[65] about one hundred and seventy-five English feet in
+length--roofed by wooden ribs, in the form of an arch, and displaying a
+most curious and exact specimen of carpenter's work. This is justly shewn
+and commented upon to the enquiring traveller. Parts of the building are
+devoted to the courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almost
+every description. The first Presidents of the Parliament lived formerly in
+the building which faces you upon entrance, but matters have now taken a
+very different turn. Upon the whole, this _Town Hall_, or call it what you
+will, is rather a magnificent structure; and certainly superior to most
+provincial buildings of the kind which we possess in England. I should tell
+you that the courts for commercial causes are situated near the quays, at
+the south part of the town: and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted me thither,
+(and who possesses the choicest library[66] of antiquarian books, of all
+descriptions, relating to Rouen, which I had the good fortune to see)
+carried me to the _Hall of Commerce_, which, among other apartments,
+contains a large chamber (contiguous to the Court of Justice) covered with
+_fleurs de lys_ upon a light blue ground. It is now however much in need of
+reparation. Fresh lilies and a new ground are absolutely necessary to
+harmonise with a large oil-painting at one end of it, in which is
+represented the reception of Louis XVI. at Rouen by the Mayor and Deputies
+of the town, in 1786. All the figures are of the size of life, well painted
+after the originals, and appear to be strong resemblances. On enquiring how
+many of them were now living, I was told that--ALL WERE DEAD! The fate of
+the _principal_ figure is but too well known. They should have this
+interesting subject--interesting undoubtedly to the inhabitants--executed
+by one of their best engravers. It represents the unfortunate Louis quite
+in the prime of life; and is the best whole length portrait of him which I
+have yet seen in painting or in engraving.
+
+It is right however that you should know, that, in the Tribunal for the
+determination of commercial causes, there sits a very respectable Bench of
+Judges: among whom I recognised one that had perfectly the figure, air, and
+countenance, of an Englishman. On enquiry of my guide, I found my
+supposition verified. He _was_ an Englishman; but had been thirty years a
+resident in _Rouen_. The judicial costume is appropriate in every respect;
+but I could not help smiling, the other morning, upon meeting my friend the
+judge, standing before the door of his house, in the open street--with a
+hairy cap on--leisurely smoking his pipe--And wherein consisted the harm of
+such a _delassement_?
+
+
+[61] [I apprehend this custom to be prevalent in fortified towns:--as
+    Rouen _formerly_ was--and as I found such custom to obtain at the
+    present day, at Strasbourg. Mons. Licquet says that the allusion to
+    the curfew--or _couvre-feu_--as appears in the previous
+    edition--and which the reader well knows was established by the
+    Conqueror with us--was no particular badge of the slavery of the
+    English. It had been _previously_ established by William in NORMANDY.
+    Millot is referred to as the authority.]
+
+[62] _the famous_ JEANNE D'ARC.] Goube, in the second volume of his
+    _Histoire du Duche de Normandie_, has devoted several spiritedly
+    written pages to an account of the trial and execution of this
+    heroine. Her history is pretty well known to the English--from
+    earliest youth. Goube says that her mode of death had been completely
+    prejudged; for that, previously to the sentence being passed, they
+    began to erect "a scaffold of plaster, so raised, that the flames
+    could not at first reach her--and she was in consequence consumed by a
+    slow fire: her tortures being long and horrible." Hume has been rather
+    too brief: but he judiciously observes that the conduct of the Duke of
+    Bedford "was equally barbarous and dishonourable." Indeed it were
+    difficult to pronounce which is entitled to the greatest
+    abhorrence--the imbecility of Charles VII. the baseness of John of
+    Luxembourg, or the treachery of the Regent Bedford?
+
+    The _identical_ spot on which she suffered is not now visible,
+    according to Millin; that place having been occupied by the late
+    _Marche des Veaux_. It was however not half a stone's throw from the
+    site of the present statue. In the _Antiquites Nationales_ of the last
+    mentioned author (vol. iii. art. xxxvi.) there are three plates
+    connected with the History of JOAN of ARC. The _first_ plate
+    represents the _Porte Bouvreuil_ to the left, and the circular old
+    tower to the right--in which latter Joan was confined, with some
+    houses before it; the middle ground is a complete representation of
+    the rubbishing state by which many of the public buildings at Rouen
+    are yet surrounded; and French taste has enlivened the foreground with
+    a picture of a lover and his mistress, in a bocage, regaling
+    themselves with a flagon of wine. The old circular tower ("qui vit
+    gemir cette infortunee," says Millin) exists no longer. The second
+    plate represents the fountain which was built in the market-place upon
+    the very spot where the Maid suffered, and which spot was at first
+    designated by the erection of a cross. From the style of the
+    embellishments it appears to have been of the time of Francis I.
+
+    Goube has re-engraved this fountain. It was taken down or demolished
+    in 1755; upon the site of which was built the present tasteless
+    production--resembling, as the author of the _Itineraire de Rouen_ (p.
+    69) well observes, "rather a Pallas than the heroine of Orleans." The
+    name of the author was STODTS. Millin's _third_ plate--of this present
+    existing fountain, is desirable; in as much as it shews the front of
+    the house, in the interior of which are the basso-rilievos of the
+    _Champ de drap d'Or_: for an account of which see afterwards.
+
+    Millin allows that all PORTRAITS of her--whether in sculpture, or
+    painting, or engraving--are purely IDEAL. Perhaps the nearest, in
+    point of fidelity, was that which was seen in a painted glass window
+    of the church of the _Minimes_ at Chaillot: although the building was
+    not erected till the time of Charles VIII. Yet it might have been a
+    copy of some coeval production. In regard to oil paintings, I take it
+    that the portrait of JUDITH, with a sword in one hand, and the head of
+    Holofernes in the other, has been usually copied (with the omission of
+    the latter accompaniment) as that of JEANNE D'ARC. I hardly know a
+    more interesting collection of books than that which may be acquired
+    respecting the fate of this equally brave and unfortunate heroine.
+
+[63] Far be it from me to depreciate the labours of Montfaucon. But those
+    who have not the means of getting at that learned antiquarian's
+    _Monarchie Francoise_ may possibly have an opportunity of examining
+    precisely the same representations, of the procession above alluded
+    to, in _Ducarel's Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, Plate XII. Till the year
+    1726 this extraordinary series of ornament was supposed to represent
+    the _Council of Trent_; but the Abbe Noel, happening to find a
+    salamander marked upon the back of one of the figures, supposed, with
+    greater truth, that it was a representation of the abovementioned
+    procession; and accordingly sent Montfaucon an account of the whole.
+    The Abbe might have found more than one, two, or three salamanders, if
+    he had looked closely into this extraordinary exterior; and possibly,
+    in his time, the surfaces of the more delicate parts, especially of
+    the human features, might not have sustained the injuries which time
+    and accident now seem to have inflicted on them. [A beautiful effort
+    in the graphic way representing the entire interior front of this
+    interesting mansion, is said to be published at Rouen.]
+
+[64] In the previous edition of this work, there appeared a facsimile of a
+    small portion of this bas-relief, representing--as I imagine--the
+    setting out of Francis to meet Henry. Nothing, as far as correctness
+    of detail goes, can give a more faithful resemblance of the PRECISE
+    STATE in which the original appears: the defaced and the entire parts
+    being represented with equal fidelity. Mons. Langlois has given a
+    plate of the entire facade or front--in outline--with great ability;
+    but so small as to give little or no notion of the character of the
+    original.
+
+[65] In Ducarel's time, "the ground story consisted of a great quadrangle
+    surrounded with booksellers shops. On one side of it a stone staircase
+    led to a large and lofty room, which, in its internal as well as
+    external appearance, resembled, though in miniature, Westminster Hall.
+    Here (continues Ducarel) I saw several gentlemen of the long robe, in
+    their gowns and bands, walking up and down with briefs in their hands,
+    and making a great show of business." _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_,
+    p. 32. [According to Mons. Licquet, this "singularly curious hall" was
+    begun to be built in 1493. It was afterwards, and is still called,
+    _la Salle des Procureurs_.]
+
+[66] _the choicest library_] Monsieur Riaux, Archiviste de la Chambre
+    de Commerce. This amiable man unites a love of literature with that of
+    architectural antiquities. The library of M. Le Prevost is however as
+    copious as that of Mons. R.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+THE QUAYS. BRIDGE OF BOATS. RUE DU BAC. RUE DE ROBEC. EAUX DE ROBEC ET
+D'AUBETTE. MONT STE. CATHARINE. HOSPICES--GENERAL ET D'HUMANITE.
+
+
+Still tarrying within this old fashioned place? I have indeed yet much to
+impart before I quit it, and which I have no scruple in avowing will be
+well deserving of your attention.
+
+Just letting you know, in few words, that I have visited the famous
+chemical laboratory of M. Vitalis, (_Rue Beauvoisine_) and the yet more
+wonderful spectacle exhibited in M. Lemere's machine for sawing wood of all
+descriptions, into small or large planks, by means of water works--I must
+take you along THE QUAYS for a few minutes. These quays are flanked by an
+architectural front, which, were it finished agreeably to the original
+plan, would present us with one of the noblest structures in Europe. This
+stone front was begun in the reign of Louis XV. but many and prosperous
+must be the years of art, of commerce, and of peace, before money
+sufficient can be raised for the successful completion of the pile. The
+quays are long, broad, and full of bustle of every description; while in
+some of the contiguous squares, ponderous bales of goods, shawls, cloth,
+and linen, are spread open to catch the observing eye. In the midst of this
+varied and animated scene, walks a well-known character, in his large
+cocked hat, and with his tin machine upon his back, filled with lemonade or
+coffee, surmounted by a bell--which "ever and anon" is sounded for the sake
+of attracting customers. He is here copied to the life.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+As you pass along this animated scene, by the side of the rapid Seine, and
+its _Bridge of Boats_, you cannot help glancing now and then down the
+narrow old-fashioned streets, which run at right angles with the
+quays--with the innumerable small tile-fashioned pieces of wood, like
+scales, upon the roofs--which seem as if they would be demolished by every
+blast. The narrowness and gloom of these streets, together with the bold
+and overwhelming projections of the upper stories and roofs, afford a
+striking contrast to the animated scene upon the quays:--where the sun
+shines with full freedom, as it were; and where the glittering streamers,
+at innumerable mast-heads, denote the wealth and prosperity of the town. If
+the day happen to be fine, you may devote half a morning in contemplating,
+and mingling with, so interesting a scene.
+
+We have had frequent thunder-storms of late; and the other Sunday evening,
+happening to be sauntering at a considerable height above the north-west
+Boulevards, towards the _Faubourg Cauchoise_, I gained a summit, upon the
+edge of a gravel pit, whence I looked down unexpectedly and precipitously
+upon the town below. A magnificent and immense cloud was rolling over the
+whole city. The Seine was however visible on the other side of it, shining
+like a broad silver chord: while the barren, ascending plains, through
+which the road to Caen passes, were gradually becoming dusk with the
+overshadowing cloud, and drenched with rain which seemed to be rushing down
+in one immense torrent. The tops of the Cathedral and of the abbey of St.
+Ouen were almost veiled in darkness, by the passing storm; but the lower
+part of the tower, and the whole of the nave of each building, were in one
+stream of golden light--from the last powerful rays of the setting sun. In
+ten minutes this magically-varied scene settled into the sober, uniform
+tint of evening; but I can never forget the rich bed of purple and pink,
+fringed with burnished gold, in which the sun of that evening set! I
+descended--absorbed in the recollection of the lovely objects which I had
+just contemplated--and regaled by the sounds of a thousand little gurgling
+streamlets, created by the passing tempest, and hastening to precipitate
+themselves into the Seine.
+
+Of the different trades, especially retail, which are carried on in Rouen
+with the greatest success, those connected with the _cotton manufactories_
+cannot fail to claim your attention; and I fancied I saw, in some of the
+shop-windows, shawls and gowns which might presume to vie with our
+Manchester and Norwich productions. Nevertheless, I learnt that the French
+were extremely partial to British manufactures: and cotton stockings,
+coloured muslins, and what are called ginghams, are coveted by them with
+the same fondness as we prize their cambric and their lace. Their best
+articles in watches, clocks, silver ornaments, and trinkets, are obtained
+from Paris. But in respect to upholstery, I must do the Rouennois the
+justice to say, that I never saw any thing to compare with their
+_escrutoires_ and other articles of furniture made of the walnut tree.
+These upright escrutoires, or writing desks, are in almost every bed-room
+of the more respectable hotels: but of course their polish is gone when
+they become stationary furniture in an inn--for the art of rubbing, or what
+is called _elbow-grease_ with us--is almost unknown on either side of the
+Seine. You would be charmed to have a fine specimen of a side board, or an
+escrutoire, (the latter five or six feet high) made by one of their best
+cabinet-makers from choice walnut wood. The polish and tone of colour are
+equally gratifying; and resemble somewhat that of rose wood, but of a gayer
+aspect. The _or-molu_ ornaments are tastefully put on; but the general
+shape, or contour, of the several pieces of furniture, struck me as being
+in bad taste.
+
+He who wishes to be astonished by the singularity of a scene, connected
+with _trade_, should walk leisurely down the RUE DE ROBEC. It is surely the
+oddest, and as some may think, the most repulsive scene imaginable: But who
+that has a rational curiosity could resist such a walk? Here live the
+_dyers of clothes_--and in the middle of the street rushes the precipitous
+stream, called _L'Eau de Robec_[67]--receiving colours of all hues. To-day
+it is nearly jet black: to-morrow it is bright scarlet: a third day it is
+blue, and a fourth day it is yellow! Meanwhile it is partially concealed by
+little bridges, communicating with the manufactories, or with that side of
+the street where the work-people live: and the whole has a dismal and
+disagreeable aspect--especially in dirty weather: but if you go to one end
+of it (I think to the east--as it runs east and west) and look down upon
+the descending street, with the overhanging upper stories and roofs--the
+foreshortened, numerous bridges--the differently-coloured dyed clothes,
+suspended from the windows, or from poles--the constant motion of men,
+women, and children, running across the bridges--with the rapid, _camelion_
+stream beneath--you cannot fail to acknowledge that this is one of the most
+singular, grotesque, and uncommon sights in the wonder-working city of
+Rouen. I ought to tell you that the first famous Cardinal d'Amboise (of
+whom the preceding pages have made such frequent honourable mention) caused
+the _Eau de Robec_ to be directed through the streets of Rouen, from its
+original channel or source in a little valley near _St. Martin du Vivien_.
+Formerly there was a much more numerous clan of these "teinturiers" in the
+Rue de Robec--but they have of late sought more capacious premises in the
+fauxbourgs _de St. Hilaire_ and _de Martainville_. The neighbouring
+sister-stream, _l'Eau d'Aubette_, is destined to the same purposes as that
+of which I have been just discoursing; but I do not at this moment
+recollect whether it be also dignified, in its course, by turning a few
+corn mills, ere it empties itself into the Seine. Indeed the thundering
+noise of one of these mills, turned by the Robec river, near the church of
+St. Maclou, will not be easily forgotten. Thus you see of what various,
+strange, and striking objects the city of Rouen is composed. Bustle, noise,
+life and activity, in the midst of an atmosphere unsullied by the fumes of
+sea coal:--hilarity and apparent contentment:--the spruce bourgeoise and
+the slattern fille de chambre:--attired in vestments of deep crimson and
+dark blue--every thing flits before you as if touched by magic, and as if
+sorrow and misfortune were unknown to the inhabitants.
+
+"Paullo majora canamus." In other words, let us leave the Town for the
+Country. Let us hurry through a few more narrow and crowded alleys, courts,
+and streets--and as the morning is yet beautiful, let us hasten onwards to
+enjoy the famous Panorama of Rouen and its environs from the MONT STE.
+CATHARINE.... Indeed, my friend, I sincerely wish that you could have
+accompanied me to the summit of this enchanting eminence: but as you are
+far away, you must be content with a brief description of our little
+expedition thither.[68] The Mont Ste. Catharine, which is entirely chalk,
+is considered the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of Rouen;
+or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of elevation from which the
+city is to be viewed to the greatest possible advantage. It lies to the
+left of the Seine, in your way from the town; and the ascent begins
+considerably beyond the barriers. Indeed it is on the route to Paris. We
+took an excellent _fiacre_ to carry us to the beginning of the ascent, that
+our legs might be in proper order for scrambling up the acclivities
+immediately above; and leaving the main road to the right, we soon
+commenced our ambulatory operations in good earnest. But there was not much
+labour or much difficulty: so, halting, or standing, or sitting, on each
+little eminence, our admiration seemed to encrease--till, gaining the
+highest point, looking towards the west, we found ourselves immediately
+above the town and the whole of its environs....
+
+    "Heavens, what a goodly prospect spread around!"
+
+The prospect was indeed "goodly--" being varied, extensive, fertile, and
+luxuriant ... in spite of a comparatively backward spring. The city was the
+main object, not only of attraction, but of astonishment. Although the
+point from which we viewed it is considered to be exactly on a level with
+the summit of the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be hanging, as
+it were, in the air, immediately over the streets themselves. We saw each
+church, each public edifice, and almost each street; nay, we began to think
+we could discover almost every individual stirring in them. The soldiers,
+exercising on the parade in the Champ de Mars, seemed to be scarcely two
+stones' throw from us; while the sounds of their music reached us in the
+most distinct and gratifying manner. No "Diable boiteux" could ever have
+transported a "Don Cleophas Leandro Perez Zambullo" to a more favourable
+situation for a knowledge of what was passing in a city; and if the houses
+had been unroofed, we could have almost discerned whether the _escrutoires_
+were made of mahogany or walnut-wood! This wonder-working effect proceeds
+from the extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere, and the absence of
+sea-coal fume. The sky was perfectly blue--the generality of the roofs were
+also composed of blue slate: this, added to the incipient verdure of the
+boulevards, and the darker hues of the trunks of the trees, upon the
+surrounding hills--the lengthening forests to the left, and the numerous
+white "maisons de plaisance"[69] to the right--while the Seine, with its
+hundred vessels, immediately below, to the left, and in face of you--with
+its cultivated little islands--and the sweeping meadows or race-ground[70]
+on the other side--all, or indeed any, of these objects could not fail to
+excite our warmest admiration, and to make us instinctively exclaim "that
+such a panorama was perfectly unrivalled!"
+
+We descended Mont Ste. Catharine on the side facing the _Hospice General_:
+a building of a very handsome form, and considerable dimensions. It is a
+noble establishment for foundlings, and the aged and infirm of both sexes.
+I was told that not fewer than twenty-five hundred human beings were
+sheltered in this asylum; a number, which equally astonished and delighted
+me. The descent, on this side the hill, is exceedingly pleasing; being
+composed of serpentine little walks, through occasional alleys of trees and
+shrubs, to the very base of the hill, not many hundred yards from the
+hospital. The architecture of this extensive building is more mixed than
+that of its neighbour the _Hospice d'Humanite_, on account of the different
+times in which portions of it were added: but, upon the whole, you are
+rather struck with its approach to what may be called magnificence of
+style. I was indeed pleased with the good order and even good breeding of
+its motley inhabitants. Some were strolling quietly, with their arms behind
+them, between rows of trees:--others were tranquilly sitting upon benches:
+a third group would be in motion within the squares of the building: a
+fourth appeared in deep consultation whether the _potage_ of to day were
+not inferior to that of the preceding day?--"Que cherchez vous, Monsieur?"
+said a fine looking old man, touching, and half taking off, his cocked hat;
+"I wish to see the Abbe Turquier,"--rejoined I. "Ah, il vient de
+sortir--par ici, Monsieur." "Thank you." "Monsieur je vous souhaite le bon
+jour--au plaisir de vous revoir!" And thus I paced through the squares of
+this vast building. The "Portier" had a countenance which our Wilkie would
+have seized with avidity, and copied with inimitable spirit and fidelity.
+
+
+[67] Bourgueville describes this river, in the sixteenth century, as being
+    "aucune fois iaulne, autrefois rouge, verte, bleuee, violee & autres
+    couleurs, selon qu'vn grand nombre de teinturiers qui sont dessus, la
+    diuersifient par interualles en faisant leurs maneures." _Antiquitez
+    de Caen_, p. 36.
+
+[68] _expedition thither_.]--When John Evelyn visited this
+    neighbourhood, in 1644, "the country so abounded with _wolves_, that a
+    shepherd, whom he met, told him that one of his companions was
+    strangled by one of them the day before--and that, in the midst of the
+    flock! The fields (continues he) are mostly planted with pears and
+    apples and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished with
+    quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in abundance." _Memoirs of
+    the Life and Writings of John Evelyn_, vol. i. p. 50. Edit. 1818. My
+    friend Mr. J. H. Markland visited Mont St. Catharine the year after
+    the visit above described. He was of course enchanted with the view;
+    and told me, that a friend whom he met there, and who had travelled
+    pretty much in Italy, assured him there was nothing like it on the
+    banks of either the _Arno_ or the _Po_. In short, it is quite peculiar
+    to itself--and cannot be surpassed.
+
+[69] It is thus prettily observed in the little _Itineraire de Rouen_
+    --"Ces agreables maisons de plaisance appartiennent a des habitants de
+    Rouen qui y viennent en famille, dans la belle saison, se delasser des
+    embarras de la ville et des fatigues du commerce." p. 153.
+
+[70] _race-ground_]--When the English cavalry were quartered here in
+    1814-5, the officers were in the frequent habit of racing with each
+    other. These races were gaily attended by the inhabitants; and I
+    heard, from more than one mouth, the warmest commendations bestowed
+    upon the fleetness of the coursers and the skill of the riders.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+EARLY TYPOGRAPHY AT ROUEN. MODERN PRINTERS. CHAP BOOKS. BOOKSELLERS. BOOK
+COLLECTORS.
+
+
+Now for a little gossip and chit-chat about _Paper, Ink, Books,
+Printing-Offices_, and curiosities of a GRAPHIC description. Perhaps the
+most regular method would be to speak of a few of the principal _Presses_,
+before we take the _productions_ of these presses into consideration. And
+first, as to the antiquity of printing in Rouen.[71] The art of printing is
+supposed to have been introduced here, by a citizen of the name of MAUFER,
+between the years 1470 and 1480. Some of the specimens of Rouen _Missals_
+and _Breviaries_, especially of those by MORIN, who was the second printer
+in this city, are very splendid. His device, which is not common, and
+rather striking, is here enclosed for your gratification.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Few provincial towns have been more fertile in typographical productions;
+and the reputation of TALLEUR, GUALTIER, and VALENTIN, gave great
+respectability to the press of Rouen at the commencement of the sixteenth
+century.
+
+Yet I am not able to ascertain whether these presses were very fruitful in
+Romances, Chronicles, and Old Poetry. I rather think, however, that they
+were not deficient in this popular class of literature, if I am to judge
+from the specimens which are yet lingering, as it were, in the hands of the
+curious. The gravity even of an archiepiscopal see could never repress the
+natural love of the French, from time immemorial, for light and fanciful
+reading.
+
+You know with what pertinacity I grope about old alleys, old courts,
+by-lanes, and unfrequented corners--in search of what is curious, or
+precious, or rare in the book way. But ere we touch that enchanting chord,
+let us proceed according to the plan laid down. First therefore for
+printing-offices. Of these, the names of PERIAUX, (_Imprimeur de
+l'Academie_,) BAUDRY, (_Imprimeur du Roi_) MEGARD, (_Rue Martainville_) and
+LECRENE-LABBEY, (_Imprimeur-Libraire et Marchand de Papiers_) are masters
+of the principal presses; but such is the influence of Paris, or of
+metropolitan fashions, that a publisher will sometimes prefer getting his
+work printed at the capital.[72] Of the foregoing printers, it behoves me
+to make some mention; and yet I can speak personally but of two: Messieurs
+Periaux and Megard. M. Periaux is printer to the _Academie des Sciences,
+Belles-Lettres et Arts de Rouen_, of which academy, indeed, he is himself
+an accomplished member. He is quick, intelligent, well-bred, and obliging
+to the last degree; and may be considered the _Henry Stephen_ of the Rouen
+Printers. He urged me to call often: but I could visit him only twice. Each
+time I found him in his counting house, with his cap on--shading his eyes:
+a pen in his right hand, and a proof sheet in his left. Though he rejoiced
+at seeing me, I could discover (much to his praise) that, like Aldus, he
+wished me to "say my saying quickly,"[73] and to leave him to his _deles_
+and _stets_! He has a great run of business, and lives in one of those
+strange, old-fashioned houses, in the form of a square, with an outside
+spiral staircase, so common in this extraordinary city. He introduced me to
+his son, an intelligent young man--well qualified to take the labouring
+oar, either upon the temporary or permanent retirement of his parent.[74]
+
+Of Monsieur MEGARD, who may be called the ancient _Jenson_, or the modern
+_Bulmer_, of Rouen, I can speak only in terms of praise--both as a civil
+gentleman and as a successful printer. He is doubtless the most elegant
+printer in this city; and being also a publisher, his business is very
+considerable. He makes his regular half yearly journeys among the
+neighbouring towns and villages, and as regularly brings home the fruits of
+his enterprise and industry. On my first visit, M. Megard was from home;
+but Madame, "son epouse, l'attendoit a chaque moment!" There is a
+particular class of women among the French, which may be said to be
+singularly distinguished for their intelligence, civility, and good
+breeding. I mean the wives of the more respectable tradesmen. Thus I found
+it, in addition to a hundred similar previous instances, with Madame
+Megard. "Mais Monsieur, je vous prie de vous asseoir. Que voulez vous?" "I
+wish to have a little conversation with your husband. I am an enthusiastic
+lover of the art of printing. I search every where for skilful printers,
+and thus it is that I come to pay my respects to Monsieur Megard." We both
+sat down and conversed together; and I found in Madame Megard a
+communicative, and well-instructed, representative of the said ancient
+Jenson, or modern Bulmer. "Enfin, voila mon mari qui arrive"--said Madame,
+turning round, upon the opening of the door:--when I looked forward, and
+observed a stout man, rather above the middle size, with a countenance
+perfectly English--but accoutred in the dress of the _national guard_, with
+a grenadier cap on his head. Madame saw my embarrassment: laughed: and in
+two minutes her husband knew the purport of my visit. He began by
+expressing his dislike of the military garb: but admitted the absolute
+necessity of adopting such a measure as that of embodying a national guard.
+"Soyez le bien venu; Ma foi, je ne suis que trop sensible, Monsieur, de
+l'honneur que vous me faites--vu que vous etes antiquaire typographique, et
+que vous avez publie des ouvrages relatifs a notre art. Mais ce n'est pas
+ici qu'il faut en chercher de belles epreuves. C'est a Paris."
+
+I parried this delicate thrust by observing that I was well acquainted with
+the fine productions of _Didot_, and had also seen the less aspiring ones
+of himself; of which indeed I had reason to think his townsmen might be
+proud. This I spoke with the utmost sincerity. My first visit concluded
+with two elegant little book-presents, on the part of M. Megard--one being
+_Heures de Rouen, a l'usage du Diocese_, 1814, 12mo. and the other
+_Etrennes nouvelles commodes et utiles_; 1815, 12mo.--the former bound in
+green morocco; and the latter in calf, with gilt leaves, but printed on a
+sort of apricot-tinted paper--producing no unpleasing effect. Both are
+exceedingly well executed. My visits to M. Megard were rather frequent. He
+has a son at the College Royale, or Lycee, whither I accompanied him, one
+Sunday morning, and took the church of that establishment in the way. It is
+built entirely in the Italian style of architecture: is exceedingly
+spacious: has a fine organ, and is numerously attended. The pictures I saw
+in it, although by no means of first-rate merit, quite convince me that it
+is in churches of _Roman_, and not of _Gothic_ architecture, that paintings
+produce the most harmonious effect. This college and church form a noble
+establishment, situated in one of the most commanding eminences of the
+town. From some parts of it, the flying buttresses of the nave of the Abbey
+of St. Ouen, with the Seine at a short distance, surmounted by the hills
+and woods of Canteleu as a back ground, are seen in the most gloriously
+picturesque manner.
+
+But the printer who does the most business--or rather whose business lies
+in the lower department of the art, in bringing forth what are called _chap
+books_--is LECRENE-LABBEY--_imprimeur-libraire et marchand de papiers_. The
+very title imports a sort of _Dan Newberry's_ repository. I believe however
+that Lecrene-Labbey's business is much diminished. He once lived in the
+_Rue de la Grosse-Horloge_, No. 12: but at present carries on trade in one
+of the out-skirting streets of the town. I was told that the premises he
+now occupies were once an old church or monastery, and that a thousand
+fluttering sheets are now suspended, where formerly was seen the solemn
+procession of silken banners, with religious emblems, emblazoned in colours
+of all hues. I called at the old shop, and supplied myself with a dingy
+copy of the _Catalogue de la Bibliotheque Bleue_--from which catalogue
+however I could purchase but little; as the greater part of the old books,
+several of the _Caxtonian stamp_, had taken their departures. It was from
+this Catalogue that I learnt the precise character of the works destined
+for common reading; and from hence inferred, what I stated to you a little
+time ago, that _Romances, Rondelays_, and chivalrous stories, are yet read
+with pleasure by the good people of France. It is, in short, from this
+lower, or _lowest_ species of literature--if it must be so designated--that
+we gather the real genius, or mental character of the ordinary classes of
+society. I do assure you that some of these _chap_ publications are
+singularly droll and curious. Even the very rudiments of learning, or the
+mere alphabet-book, meets the eye in a very imposing manner--as in the
+following facsimile.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Love, Marriage_, and _Confession_, are fertile themes in these little
+farthing chap books. Yonder sits a fille de chambre, after her work is
+done. She is intent upon some little manual, taken from the _Bibliotheque
+Bleue_. Approach her, and ask her for a sight of it. She smiles, and
+readily shews you _Catechisme a l'usage des Grandes Filles pour etre
+Mariees; ensemble la maniere d'attirer les Amans_. At the first glance of
+it, you suppose that this is entirely, from beginning to end, a wild and
+probably somewhat indecorous manual of instruction. By no means; for read
+the _Litanies_ and _Prayer_ with which it concludes, and which I here send;
+admitting that they exhibit a strange mixture of the simple and the
+serious.
+
+    LITANIES.
+
+    _Pour toutes les Filles qui desirent entrer en menage_.
+
+    _Kyrie,_ je voudrois,
+    _Christe_, etre mariee.
+    _Kyrie_, je prie tous les Saints,
+    _Christe_, que ce soin demain.
+    _Sainte Marie_, tout le Monde se marie.
+    _Saint Joseph_, que vous ai-je fait?
+    _Saint Nicolas_, ne m'oubliez pas.
+    _Saint Mederie_, que j'aie un bon mari.
+    _Saint Matthieu_, qu'il craigne Dieu.
+    _Saint Jean_, qu'il m'aime tendrement.
+    _Saint Bruno_, qu'il soit juli & beau.
+    _Saint Francois_, qu'il me soit fidele.
+    _Saint Andre_, qu'il soit a mon gre.
+    _Saint Didier_, qu'il aime a travailler.
+    _Saint Honore_, qu'il n'aime pas a jouer.
+    _Saint Severin_, qu'il n'aime pas le vin.
+    _Saint Clement_, qu'il soit diligent.
+    _Saint Sauveur_, qu'il ait bon coeur.
+    _Saint Nicaise_, que je sois a mon aise.
+    _Saint Josse_, qu'il me donne un carrosse.
+    _Saint Boniface_, que mon mariage se fasse,
+    _Saint Augustin_, des demain matin.
+
+    ORAISON.
+
+    Seigneur, qui avez forme Adam de la terre, et qui lui avez
+    donne Eve pour sa compagne; envoyez-moi, s'il vous plait, un
+    bon mari pour compagnon, non pour la volupte, mais pour vous
+    honorer & avoir des enfants qui vous benissent. Ainsi soit il.
+
+Among the books of this class, before alluded to, I purchased a singularly
+amusing little manual called "_La Confession de la Bonne Femme_." It is
+really not divested of merit. Whether however it may not have been written
+during the Revolution, with a view to ridicule the practice of auricular
+confession which yet obtains throughout France, I cannot take upon me to
+pronounce; but there are undoubtedly some portions of it which seem so
+obviously to satirise this practice, that one can hardly help drawing a
+conclusion in the affirmative. On the other hand it may perhaps be
+inferred, with greater probability, that it is intended to shew with what
+extreme facility a system of _self-deception_ may be maintained.[75]
+Referring however to the little manual in question, among the various
+choice morceaus which it contains, take the following extracts:
+exemplificatory of a woman's _evading the main points of confession_.
+
+    _Confesseur_. Ne voulez vous pas me repondre; en un mot, combien
+    y a-t-il de temps que vous ne vous etes confessee?
+
+    _La Penitente._ Il y a un mois tout juste, car c'etoit le
+    quatrieme jour du mois passe, & nous sommes au cinquieme du mois
+    courant; or comptez, mon pere, & vous trouverez justement que ...
+
+    C. C'est assez, ne parlez point tant, & dites moi en peu de mots vos
+    peches.
+
+    _Elle raconte les peches d'autrui._
+
+    _La Penitente_. J'ai un enfant qui est le plus mechant garcon que
+    vous ayez jamais vu: il jure, bat sa soeur, il fuit l'ecole, derobe
+    tout ce qu'il peut pour jouer; il suit de mechans fripons: l'autre
+    jour en courant il perdit son chapeau. Enfin, c'est un mechant garcon,
+    je veux vous l'amener afin que vous me l'endoctriniez un peu s'il vous
+    plait.
+
+    C. Dites-moi vos peches.
+
+    P. Mais, mon pere, j'ai une fille qui est encore pire. Je ne la peux
+    faire lever le matin: Je l'appelle cent fois: _Marguerite: plait-il ma
+    Mere? leve-toi promptement et descends: j'y vais_. Elle ne bouge pas.
+    _Si tu ne viens maintenant, tu seras battue._ Elle s'en moque. Quand
+    je l'envoie a la Ville, je lui dis _reviens promptement, ne t'amuse
+    pas_. Cependant, elle s'arrete a toutes les portes comme l'ane d'un
+    meunier, elle babille avec tous ceux qu'elle rencontre; & quand elle
+    me fait cela, je la bats: ne fais-je pas bien, mon pere?
+
+    C. Dites-moi _vos_ peches et non pas ceux de _vos enfans_.
+
+    P. Il se trouve, mon pere, que nous avons dans notre rue une voisine
+    qui est la plus mechante de toutes les femmes: elle jure, elle
+    querelle tous ceux qui passent, personne ne la peut souffrir, ni son
+    mari, ni ses enfans, & bien souvent elle s'enivre, & vous me dites,
+    mon pere, quelle est celle-la? c'est ...
+
+    C. Ah gardez-vous bien de la nommer; car a la confession il ne faut
+    jamais fair connoitre les personnes dont vous declarez les peches.
+
+    P. C'est elle qui vient se confesser apres moi: grondez-la bien, car
+    vous ne lui en sauriez trop dire.
+
+    C. Taisez-vous donc, & ne parlez que de _vos_ peches, non pas de ceux
+    _des autres_.
+
+    _Elle s'accuse de ce qui n'est point peche._
+
+    _Penitente_.--Ah! mon pere, j'ai fait un grand peche, ah! le
+    grand peche! Helas je serai damnee, quoique mon confesseur m'ait
+    defendu de le dire j'amais, neanmoins mon pere je vais vous le
+    declarer.
+
+    C. Ne le dites point, puisque votre confesseur vous l'a defendu, je ne
+    veux point l'entendre.
+
+    P. Ah! n'importe; je veux vous le dire, c'est un trop grand peche:
+    J'ai battu ma mere.
+
+    C. Vous avez battu votre mere! Ah! miserable, c'est un cas reserve &
+    un crime qui merite la potence. Et quand l'avez-vous battue?
+
+    P. Quand j'etois petite de l'age de quatre ans.
+
+    C. Ah! simple, ne savez-vous pas que tout ce que les enfans font avant
+    l'age de raison, qui est environ l'age de sept ans, ne sauroit etre un
+    peche.
+
+There is however one thing, which I must frankly declare to you as entitled
+to distinct notice and especial commendation. It is, the method of teaching
+"catechisms" of a different and higher order: I mean the CHURCH CATECHISMS.
+Both the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen have numerous side chapels.
+Within these side chapels are collected, on stated days of the week, the
+young of both sexes. They are arranged in a circle. A priest, in his white
+robes, is seated, or stands, in the centre of them. He examines, questions,
+corrects, or commends, as the opportunity calls for it. His manner is
+winning and persuasive. His action is admirable. The lads shew him great
+respect, and are rarely rude, or seen to laugh. Those who answer well, and
+pay the greater attention, receive, with words of commendation, gentle pats
+upon the head--and I could not but consider the blush, with which this mark
+of favour was usually received, as so many presages of future excellence in
+the youth. I once witnessed a most determined catechetical lecture of
+girls; who might be called, in the language of their matrimonial catechism,
+"de grandes filles." It was on an evening, in the Chapel of Our Lady in St.
+Ouen's Abbey, that this examination took place. Two elderly priests
+attended. The responses of the females were as quick as they were correct;
+the eye being always invariably fixed on the pavement, accompanied with a
+gravity and even piety of expression. A large group of mothers, with
+numerous spectators, were in attendance. A question was put, to which a
+supposed incorrect response was given. It was repeated, and the same answer
+followed. The priest hesitated: something like vexation was kindling in his
+cheek, while the utmost calmness and confidence seemed to mark the
+countenance of the examinant. The attendant mothers were struck with
+surprise. A silence for one minute ensued. The question related to the
+"Holy Spirit." The priest gently approached the girl, and softly
+articulated--"Mais, ma chere considerez un peu,"--and repeated the
+question. "Mon pere, (yet more softly, rejoined the pupil) j'ai bien
+consideree, et je crois que c'est comme je vous l'ai deja dit." The Priest
+crossed his hands upon his breast ... brought down his eyebrows in a
+thoughtful mood ... and turning quickly round to the girl, addressed her in
+the most affectionate tone of voice--"Ma petite,--tu as bien dit; et
+j'avois tort." The conduct of the girl was admirable: She curtsied,
+blushed... and with eyes, from which tears seemed ready to start, surveyed
+the circle of spectators ... caught the approving glance of her mother, and
+sunk triumphantly upon her chair--with the united admiration of teachers,
+companions, parents and spectators! The whole was conducted with the most
+perfect propriety; and the pastors did not withdraw till they were fairly
+exhausted. A love of truth obliges me to confess that this reciprocity of
+zeal, on the part of master and pupil, is equally creditable to both
+parties; and especially serviceable to the cause of religion and morality.
+
+Let me here make honourable mention of the kind offices of _Monsieur
+Longchamp_, who volunteered his friendly services in walking over half the
+town with me, to shew me what he justly considered as the most worthy of
+observation. It is impossible for a generous mind to refuse its testimony
+to the ever prompt kindness of a well-bred Frenchman, in rendering you all
+the services in his power. Enquire the way,--and you have not only a finger
+quickly pointing to it, but the owner of the finger must also put himself
+in motion to accompany you a short distance upon the route, and that too
+uncovered! "Mais, Monsieur, mettez votre chapeau ... je vous en prie ...
+mille pardons." "Monsieur ne dites pas un seul mot ... pour mon chapeau,
+qu'il reste a son aise."
+
+Among book-collectors, Antiquaries, and Men of Taste, let me speak with
+becoming praise of the amiable and accomplished M. AUGUSTE LE PREVOST--who
+is considered, by competent judges, to be the best antiquary in Rouen.[76]
+Mr. Dawson Turner, (a name, in our own country, synonymous with all that is
+liberal and enlightened in matters of virtu) was so obliging as to give me
+a letter of introduction to him; and he shewed me several rare and splendid
+works, which were deserving of the commendations that they received from
+their owner.
+
+M. Le Prevost very justly discredits any remains of Roman masonry at Rouen;
+but he will not be displeased to see that the only existing relics of the
+castle or town walls, have been copied by the pencil of a late travelling
+friend. What you here behold is probably of the fourteenth century.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The next book-collector in commendation of whom I am bound to speak, is
+MONSIEUR DUPUTEL; a member, as well as M. Le Prevost, of the _Academy of
+Belles-Lettres_ at Rouen. The Abbe Turquier conducted me thither; and I
+found, in the owner of a choice collection of books, a well-bred gentleman,
+and a most hearty bibliomaniac. He has comparatively a small library; but,
+withal, some very curious, scarce, and interesting volumes. M. Duputel is
+smitten with that amiable passion,--the love of printing for _private
+distribution_--thus meriting to become a sort of Roxburghe Associate. He
+was so good as to beg my acceptance of the "nouvelle edition" of his
+"_Bagatelles Poetiques,"_ printed in an octavo volume of about 112 pages,
+at Rouen, in 1816. On taking it home, I discovered the following not
+infelicitous version of our Prior's beautiful little Poem of _the Garland_.
+
+  _La Guirlande_.
+
+  _Traduction de l'Anglais de Prior_.
+
+  Pour orner de Chloe les cheveux ondoyans,
+    Parmi les fleurs nouvellement ecloses
+    J'avais choisi les lis les plus brillans,
+  Les oeillets les plus beaux, et les plus fraiches roses.
+
+  Ma Chloe sur son front les placa la matin:
+      Alors on vit ceder sans peine,
+    Leur vif eclat a celui de son teint,
+    Leur doux parfum a ceux de son haleine.
+
+  De ses attraits ces fleurs paraissaient s'embellir,
+  Et sur ses blonds cheveux les bergers, les bergeres
+  Les voyaient se faner avec plus de plaisir
+  Qu'ils ne les voyaient naitre au milieu des parterres.
+
+    Mais, le soir, quand leur sein fletri
+  Eut cesse d'exhaler son odeur seduisante,
+    Elle fixa, d'un regard attendri,
+  Cette guirlande, helas! n'agueres si brillante.
+
+  Des larmes aussi-tot coulent de ses beaux yeux.
+    Que d'eloquence dans ces larmes!
+  Jamais pour l'exprimer, le langage des dieux,
+  Tout sublime qu'il est, n'aurait assez de charmes.
+
+  En feignant d'ignorer ce tendre sentiment;
+    "Pourquoi," lui dis-je, "o ma sensible amie,
+  Pourquoi verser des pleurs? et par quel changement
+  Abandonner ton ame a la melancholie?"
+
+  "Vois-tu comme ces fleurs languissent tristement?"
+  Me dit, en soupirant, ce moraliste aimable,
+    "De leur fraicheur, en un moment,
+  S'est eclipse le charme peu durable.
+
+    Tel est, helas! notre destin;
+  Fleur de beaute ressemble a celles des prairies;
+  On les voit toutes deux naitre avec le matin,
+    Et des le soir etre fletries.
+
+  Estelle hier encor brillait dans nos hameaux,
+  Et l'amour attirait les bergers sur ses traces;
+  De la mort, aujourd'hui, I'impitoyable faulx
+    A moissonne sa jeunesse et ses graces.
+
+  Soumise aux memes lois, peut-etre que demain,
+  Comme elle aussi, Damon, j'aurai cesse de vivre....
+  Consacre dans tes vers la cause du chagrin
+    Auquel ton amante se livre."
+
+  p. 92.
+
+The last and not the least of book-collectors, which I have had an
+opportunity of visiting, is MONSIEUR RIAUX. With respect to what may be
+called a ROUENNOISE LIBRARY, that of M. Riaux is greatly preferable to any
+which I have seen; although I am not sure whether M. Le Prevost's
+collection contain not nearly as many books. M. Riaux is himself a man of
+first-rate book enthusiasm; and unites the avocations of his business with
+the gratification of his literary appetites, in a manner which does him
+infinite honour. A city like Rouen should have a host of such inhabitants;
+and the government, when it begins to breathe a little from recent
+embarrassments, will, I hope, cherish and support that finest of all
+patriotic feelings,--a desire to preserve the RELICS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS
+of PAST AGES. Normandy is fertile beyond conception in objects which may
+gratify the most unbounded passion in this pursuit. It is the country where
+formerly the harp of the minstrel poured forth some of its sweetest
+strains; and the lay and the fabliaux of the twelfth and thirteenth
+centuries, which delight us in the text of Sainte Palaye, and in the
+versions of Way, owed their existence to the combined spirit of chivalry
+and literature, which never slumbered upon the shores of Normandy.
+
+Farewell now to ROUEN.[77] I have told you all the tellings which I thought
+worthy of communication. I have endeavoured to make you saunter with me in
+the streets, in the cathedral, the abbey, and the churches. We have, in
+imagination at least, strolled together along the quays, visited the halls
+and public buildings, and gazed with rapture from Mont Ste. Catharine upon
+the enchanting view of the city, the river, and the neighbouring hills. We
+have from thence breathed almost the pure air of heaven, and surveyed a
+country equally beautified by art, and blessed by nature. Our hearts, from
+that same height, have wished all manner of health, wealth, and prosperity,
+to a land thus abounding in corn and wine, and oil and gladness. We have
+silently, but sincerely prayed, that swords may for ever be "turned into
+plough-shares, and spears into pruning-hooks:"--that all heart-burnings,
+antipathies, and animosities, may be eternally extinguished; and that, from
+henceforth, there may be no national rivalries but such as tend to
+establish, upon a firmer footing, and upon a more comprehensive scale, the
+peace and happiness of fellow-creatures, of whatever persuasion they may
+be:--of such, who sedulously cultivate the arts of individual and of
+national improvement, and blend the duties of social order with the higher
+calls of morality and religion. Ah! my friend, these are neither foolish
+thoughts nor romantic wishes. They arise naturally in an honest heart,
+which, seeing that all creation is animated and upheld by ONE and the SAME
+POWER, cannot but ardently hope that ALL may be equally benefited by a
+reliance upon its goodness and bounty. From this eminence we have descended
+somewhat into humbler walks. We have visited hospitals, strolled in
+flower-gardens, and associated with publishers and collectors of
+works--both of the dead and of the living. So now, fare you well. Commend
+me to your family and to our common friends,--especially to the Gorburghers
+should they perchance enquire after their wandering Vice President. Many
+will be the days passed over, and many the leagues traversed, ere I meet
+them again. Within twenty-four hours my back will be more decidedly turned
+upon "dear old England"--for that country, in which her ancient kings once
+held dominion, and where every square mile (I had almost said _acre_) is
+equally interesting to the antiquary and the agriculturist. I salute you
+wholly, and am yours ever.
+
+
+[71] The reader may possibly not object to consult two or three pages of
+    the _Bibliographical Decameron_, beginning at page 137, vol. ii.
+    respecting a few of the early Rouen printers. The name of MAUFER,
+    however, appears in a fine large folio volume, entitled _Gaietanus
+    de Tienis Vincentini in Quatt. Aristot. Metheor. Libros_, of the
+    date of 1476--in the possession of Earl Spencer. See _AEd.
+    Althorp_. vol. ii. p. 134. From the colophon of which we can only
+    infer that Maufer was a _citizen of Rouen_. [According to M.
+    Licquet, the first book printed at Rouen--a book of the greatest
+    rarity--was entitled _Les Croniques de Normandie, par Guillaume Le
+    Talleur_, 1487, folio.]
+
+[72] [Since the publication of the first edition of this Tour, I have had
+    _particular_ reason to become further acquainted with the
+    partiality of the Rouennois for Parisian printing. When M. Licquet did
+    me the honour to translate my IXth Letter, subjoining notes, (which
+    cut their own throats instead of that of the author annotated upon) he
+    employed the press of Mons. Crapelet, at Paris: a press, as eminently
+    distinguished for its beauty and accuracy, as its Director has proved
+    himself to be for his narrow-mindedness and acrimony of feeling. M.L.
+    (as I learnt from a friend who conversed with him, and as indeed I
+    naturally expected) seemed to be sorry for what he had done.]
+
+[73] _like Aldus, "say my saying" quickly_.] Consult Mr. Roscoe's
+    _Life of Leo X._ vol. i. p. 169-70, 8vo. edit. Unger, in his Life
+    of Aldus, _edit. Geret._ p. xxxxii. has a pleasant notice of an
+    inscription, to the same effect, put over the door of his
+    printing-office by Aldus. [It has been quoted to satiety, and I
+    therefore omit it here.]
+
+[74] [Mons. Periaux has lately published a Dictionary of the Streets of
+    Rouen, in alphabetical order; in two small, unostentatious, and useful
+    octavo volumes.]
+
+[75] [Mons. Licquet translates the latter part of the above passage
+    thus:--"avec quelle facilite nous parvenons a nous abuser
+    nous-memes,"--adding, in a note, as follows: "J'avais d'abord vu un
+    tout autre sens dans la phrase anglaise. Si celui que j'adopte n'etait
+    pas encore le veritable, j'en demande sincerement pardon a l'auteur."
+    In turn, I may not be precisely informed of the meaning and force of
+    the verb "_abuser_"--used by my translator: but I had been better
+    satisfied with the verb _tromper_--as more closely conveying the sense
+    of the original.]
+
+[76] M. Le Prevost is a belles-lettres Antiquary of the highest order. His
+    "Memoire faisant suite a l'Essai sur les Romans historiques du moyen
+    age" may teach modern Normans not to despair when death shall have
+    laid low their present oracle the ABBE DE LA RUE. [I am proud, in
+    this second edition of my Tour, to record the uninterrupted
+    correspondence and friendship of this distinguished Individual; and I
+    can only regret, in common with several friends, that M. Le Prevost
+    will not summon courage sufficient to visit a country, once in such
+    close connexion with his own, where a HEARTY RECEPTION has long
+    awaited him.]
+
+[77] [The omission, in this place, of the entire IXth Letter, relating to
+    the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Rouen, must be accounted for, and it is hoped,
+    approved, on the principle laid down at the outset of this
+    undertaking; namely, to omit much that was purely bibliographical, and
+    of a secondary interest to the general Reader. The bibliography, in
+    the original IXth Letter, being of a partial and comparatively dry
+    description--as relating almost entirely to ancient volumes of Church
+    Rituals--was thought to be better omitted than abridged. Another
+    reason might be successfully urged for its omission.
+
+    This IXth Letter, which comprehends 22 pages in the previous
+    impression, and about 38 pages in the version, having been translated
+    and _separately_ published in 1821, by Mons. Licquet (who
+    succeeded M. Gourdin as Principal Librarian of the Library in
+    question) I had bestowed upon it particular attention, and entered
+    into several points by way of answer to his remarks, and in
+    justification or explanation of the original matter. In consequence,
+    any _abridgement_ of that original matter must have led to
+    constant notice of the minute remarks, and pigmy attacks, of my
+    critical translator: and the stream of intelligence in the text might
+    have been diverted, or rendered unpalatable, by the observations, in
+    the way of controversy, in the notes. If M. Licquet considers this
+    avowal as the proclaiming of his triumph, he is welcome to the laurels
+    of a Conqueror; but if he can persuade any COMMON FRIENDS that, in the
+    translation here referred to, he has defeated the original author in
+    one essential position--or corrected him in one flagrant inaccuracy--I
+    shall be as prompt to thank him for his labours, as I am now to
+    express my astonishment and pity at his undertaking. When M. Licquet
+    put forth the brochure in question--(so splendidly executed in the
+    press of M. Crapelet--to harmonise, in all respects, with the large
+    paper copies of the original English text) he had but recently
+    occupied the seat of his Predecessor. I can commend the zeal of the
+    newly-appointed Librarian in Chief; but must be permitted to question
+    alike his judgment and his motives.
+
+    One more brief remark in this place. My translator should seem to
+    commend what is only laudatory, in the original author, respecting his
+    countrymen. Sensitively alive to the notice of their smallest defects,
+    he has the most unbounded powers of digestion for that of their
+    excellences. Thus, at the foot of the ABOVE PASSAGE, in the text,
+    Mons. Licquet is pleased to add as follows--in a note: "Si M. Dibdin
+    ne s'etait livre qu'a des digressions de cette nature, il aurait
+    trouve en France un chorus universel, un concert de voeux unanimes:"
+    vol. i. p. 239. And yet few travellers have experienced a more cordial
+    reception, and maintained a more _harmonious_ intercourse, than
+    HE, who, from the foregoing quotation, is more than indirectly
+    supposed to have provoked opposition and _discord!_]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. ST. GEORGE DE BOSCHERVILLE. DUCLAIR. MARIVAUX. THE
+ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. ARRIVAL AT CAUDEBEC.
+
+_May_, 1818.
+
+
+MY DEAR FRIEND.
+
+
+In spite of all its grotesque beauties and antiquarian attractions, the
+CITY OF ROUEN must be quitted--and I am about to pursue my route more in
+the character of an independent traveller. No more _Diligence_, or
+_Conducteur_. I have hired a decent cabriolet, a decent pair of horses, and
+a yet more promising postilion: and have already made a delightfully rural
+migration. Adieu therefore to dark avenues, gloomy courts, overhanging
+roofs, narrow streets, cracking whips, the never-ceasing noise of carts and
+carriages, and never-ending movements of countless masses of
+population:--Adieu!--and in their stead, welcome be the winding road, the
+fertile meadow, the thickly-planted orchard, and the broad and sweeping
+Seine!
+
+Accordingly, on the 4th of this month, between the hours of ten and eleven,
+A.M. the rattling of horses' hoofs, and the echoes of a postilion's whip,
+were heard within the court-yard of the _Hotel Vatel_. Monsieur, Madame,
+Jacques--and the whole fraternity of domestics, were on the alert--"pour
+faire les adieux a Messieurs les Anglois." This Jacques deserves somewhat
+of a particular notice. He is the prime minister of the Hotel Vatel.[78] A
+somewhat _uncomfortable_ detention in England for five years, in the
+character of "prisoner of war," has made him master of a pretty quick and
+ready utterance of common-place phrases in our language; and he is not a
+little proud of his attainments therein. Seriously speaking, I consider him
+quite a phenomenon in his way; and it is right you should know that he
+affords a very fair specimen of a sharp, clever, French servant. His bodily
+movements are nearly as quick as those of his tongue. He rises, as well as
+his brethren, by five in the morning; and the testimonies of this early
+activity are quickly discovered in the unceasing noise of beating coats,
+singing French airs, and scolding the boot-boy. He rarely retires to rest
+before mid-night; and the whole day long he is in one eternal round of
+occupation. When he is bordering upon impertinence, he seems to be
+conscious of it--declaring that "the English make him saucy, but that
+naturally he is very civil." He always speaks of human beings in the
+_neuter_ gender; and to a question whether such a one has been at the
+Hotel, he replies, "I have not seen _it_ to-day." I am persuaded he is a
+thoroughly honest creature; and considering the pains which are taken to
+spoil him, it is surprising with what good sense and propriety he conducts
+himself.
+
+About eleven o'clock, we sprung forward, at a smart trot, towards the
+barriers by which we had entered Rouen. Our postilion was a thorough master
+of his calling, and his spurs and whip seemed to know no cessation from
+action. The steeds, perfectly Norman, were somewhat fiery; and we rattled
+along the streets, (for the _chausse_ never causes the least abatement of
+pace with the French driver) in high expectation of seeing a thousand rare
+sights ere we reached Havre--equally the limits of our journey, and of our
+contract with the owner of the cabriolet. That accomplished antiquary M. Le
+Prevost, whose name you have often heard, had furnished me with so dainty a
+bill of fare, or carte de voyage; that I began to consider each hour lost
+which did not bring us in contact with some architectural relic of
+antiquity, or some elevated position--whence the wandering Seine and wooded
+heights of the adjacent country might be surveyed with equal advantage.
+
+You have often, I make no doubt, my dear friend, started upon something
+like a similar expedition:--when the morning has been fair, the sun bright,
+the breeze gentle, and the atmosphere clear. In such moments how the ardour
+of hope takes possession of one!--How the heart warms, and the conversation
+flows! The barriers are approached; we turn to the left, and commence our
+journey in good earnest. Previously to gaining the first considerable
+height, you pass the village of _Bapeaume_. This village is exceedingly
+picturesque. It is studded with water-mills, and is enlivened by a rapid
+rivulet, which empties itself, in a serpentine direction, into the Seine.
+You now begin to ascend a very commanding eminence; at the top of which are
+scattered some of those country houses which are seen from Mont Ste.
+Catharine. The road is of a noble breadth. The day warmed; and dismounting,
+we let our steeds breathe freely, as we continued to ascend leisurely. Our
+first halting-place, according to the instructions of M. Le Prevost, was
+_St. George de Boscherville_; an ancient abbey established in the twelfth
+century, This abbey is situated about three French leagues from Rouen. Our
+route thither, from the summit of the hill which we had just ascended, lay
+along a road skirted by interminable orchards now in full bloom. The air
+was perfumed to excess by the fragrance of these blossoms. The apple and
+pear were beautifully conspicuous; and as the sky became still more serene,
+and the temperature yet more mild by the unobstructed sun beam, it is
+impossible to conceive any thing more balmy and genial than was this lovely
+day. The minutes seemed to fly away too quickly--when we reached the
+village of _Boscherville_; where stands the CHURCH; the chief remaining
+relic of this once beautiful abbey. We surveyed the west front very
+leisurely, and thought it an extremely beautiful specimen of the
+architecture of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries; for certainly there
+are some portions more ancient than others. A survey of the chapter-house
+filled me with mingled sorrow and delight: sorrow, that the Revolution and
+a modern cotton manufactory had metamorphosed it from its original
+character; and delight, that the portions which remained were of such
+beautiful forms, and in such fine preservation. The stone, being of a very
+close-grained quality, is absolutely as white and sound as if it had been
+just cut from the quarry. The room, where a parcel of bare-legged girls and
+boys were working the respective machineries, had a roof of the most
+delicate construction.[79]
+
+The very sound of a _Monastery_ made me curious to examine the disposition
+of the building. Accordingly, I followed my guide through suites of
+apartments, up divers stone stair-cases, and along sundry corridors. I
+noticed the dormitories with due attention, and of course inquired eagerly
+for the LIBRARY:--but the shelves only remained--either the fear or the
+fury of the Revolution having long ago dispossessed it of every thing in
+the shape of a _book_. The whole was painted white. I counted eleven
+perpendicular divisions; and, from the small distances between the upper
+shelves, there must have been a very considerable number of _duodecimos_.
+The titles of the respective classes of the library were painted in white
+letters upon a dark-blue ground, at top. _Bibles_ occupied the first
+division, and the _Fathers_ the second: but it should seem that equal
+importance was attached to the works of _Heretics_ as to those called
+_Litterae Humaniores_--for each had a division of equal magnitude.
+
+On looking out of window, especially from the back part of the building,
+the eye rests entirely upon what had once been fruitful orchards, abundant
+kitchen gardens, and shady avenues. Yet in England, this spot, rich by
+nature, and desirable from its proximity to a great city, would, ere forty
+moons had waned, have grown up into beauty and fertility, and expanded into
+luxuriance of condition.
+
+The day was now, if possible, more lovely than before. On looking at my
+instructions I found that we had to stop to examine the remains of an old
+castle at _Delafontaine_--about two English miles from _St. George de
+Boscherville_. These remains, however, are but the fragments of a ruin, if
+I may so speak; yet they are interesting, but somewhat perilous: for a few
+broken portions of a wall support an upper chamber, where appears a stone
+chimney-piece of very curious construction and ornament. On observing a
+large cavity or loop-hole, about half way up the outer wall, I gained it by
+means of a plentiful growth of ivy, and from thence surveyed the landscape
+before me. Here, having for some time past lost sight of the Seine, I
+caught a fine bold view of the sweep of that majestic river, now becoming
+broader and broader--while, to the left, softly tinted by distance,
+appeared the beautiful old church we had just quitted: the verdure of the
+hedges, shrubs, and forest trees, affording a rich variety to the ruddy
+blossoms of the apple, and the white bloom of the pear. I admit, however,
+that this delicious morceau of landscape was greatly indebted, for its
+enchanting effect, to the blue splendour of the sky, and the soft
+temperature of the air; while the fragrance of every distended blossom
+added much to the gratification of the beholder. But it is time to descend
+from this elevation; and to think of reaching Duclair.
+
+DUCLAIR is situated close to the very borders of the Seine, which has now
+an absolute lake-like appearance. We stopped at the auberge to rest our
+horses; and I commenced a discourse with the master of the inn and his
+daughter; the latter, a very respectable-looking and well-behaved young
+woman of about twenty-two years of age. She was preparing a large crackling
+wood-fire to dress a fish called the _Alose_, for the passengers of the
+_diligence_--who were expected within half an hour. The French think they
+can never _butter_ their victuals sufficiently; and it would have produced
+a spasmodic affection in a thoroughly bilious spectator, could he have seen
+the enormous piece of butter which this active young _cuisiniere_ thought
+necessary to put into the pot in which the '_Alose_' was to be boiled. She
+laughed at the surprise I expressed; and added "qu'on ne peut rien faire
+dans la cuisine sans le beurre." You ought to know, by the by, that the
+_Alose_, something like our _mackerel_ in flavour, is a large and delicious
+fish; and that we were always anxious to bespeak it at the table-d'hote at
+Rouen. Extricated from the lake of butter in which it floats, when brought
+upon table, it forms not only a rich, but a very substantial dish.
+
+I took a chair and sat in the open air, by the side of the door--enjoying
+the breeze, and much disposed to gossip with the master of the place.
+Perceiving this, the landlord approached, and addressed me with a pleasant
+degree of familiarity. "You are from London, then, Sir?" "I am." "Ah Sir, I
+never think of London but with the most painful sensations." "How so?"
+"Sir, I am the sole heir of a rich banker who died in that city before the
+Revolution. He was in partnership with an English gentleman. Can you
+possibly advise and assist me upon the subject?" I told him that my advice
+and assistance were literally not worth a sous; but that, such as they
+were, he was perfectly welcome to both. "Your daughter Sir, is not
+married?"--"Non, Monsieur, elle n'est pas encore epousee: mais je lui dis
+qu'elle ne sera jamais _heureuse_ avant qu'elle le soit." The daughter, who
+had overheard the conversation, came forward, and looking archly over her
+shoulder, replied--"ou _malheureuse_, mon pere!" A sort of truism,
+expressed by her with singular epigrammatic force, to which there was no
+making any reply.
+
+Do you remember, my dear friend; that exceedingly cold winter's night,
+when, for lack of other book-entertainment, we took it into our heads to
+have a rummage among the _Scriptores Historiae Normannorum_ of
+DUCHESNE?--and finding therein many pages occupied by _Gulielmus
+Gemeticensis_, we bethought ourselves that we would have recourse to the
+valuable folio volume yeleped _Neustria Pia_:--where we presently seemed to
+hold converse with the ancient founders and royal benefactors of certain
+venerable establishments! I then little imagined that it would ever fall to
+my lot to be either walking or musing within the precincts of the Abbey of
+Jumieges;--or rather, of the ruins of what was once not less distinguished,
+as a school of learning, than admired for its wealth and celebrity as a
+monastic establishment. Yes, my friend, I have seen and visited the ruins
+of this Abbey; and I seem to live "mihi carior" in consequence.
+
+But I know your love of method--and that you will be in wrath if I skip
+from _Duclair_ to JUMIEGES ere the horses have carried us a quarter of a
+league upon the route. To the left of _Duclair_, and also washed by the
+waters of the Seine, stands _Marivaux_; a most picturesque and highly
+cultivated spot. And across the Seine, a little lower down, is the
+beautiful domain of _La Mailleraye_;--where are hanging gardens, and jets
+d'eaux, and flower-woven arbours, and daisy-sprinkled meadows--for there
+lives and occasionally revels _La Marquise_.... I might have been not only
+a spectator of her splendor, but a participator of her hospitality; for my
+often-mentioned valuable friend, M. Le Prevost, volunteered me a letter of
+introduction to her. What was to be done? One cannot be everywhere in one
+day, or in one journey:--so, gravely balancing the ruins of still life
+against the attractions of animated society, I was unchivalrous enough to
+prefer the former--and working myself up into a sort of fantasy, of
+witnessing the spectered forms of DAGOBERT and CLOVIS, (the fabled founders
+of the Abbey) I resolutely turned my back upon _La Mailleraye_, and as
+steadily looked forwards to JUMIEGES. We ascended very sensibly--then
+striking into a sort of bye-road, were told that we should quickly reach
+the place of our destination. A fractured capital, and broken shaft, of the
+late Norman time, left at random beneath a hedge, seemed to bespeak the
+vicinity of the abbey. We then gained a height; whence, looking straight
+forward, we caught the first glance of the spires, or rather of the west
+end towers, of the Abbey of Jumieges.[80] "La voila, Monsieur,"--exclaimed
+the postilion--increasing his speed and multiplying the nourishes of his
+whip--"voila la belle Abbaye!"
+
+We approached and entered the village of Jumieges. Leaving some neat houses
+to the right and left, we drove to a snug auberge, evidently a portion of
+some of the outer buildings, or of the chapter-house, attached to the
+Abbey. A large gothic roof, and central pillar, upon entering, attest the
+ancient character of the place.[81] The whole struck us as having been
+formerly of very great dimensions. It was a glorious sun-shiny afternoon,
+and the villagers quickly crowded round the cabriolet. "Voila Messieurs les
+Anglois, qui viennent voir l'Abbaye--mais effectivement il n'y a rien a
+voir." I told the landlady the object of our visit. She procured us a guide
+and a key: and within five minutes we entered the nave of the abbey. I can
+never forget that entrance. The interior, it is true, has not the magical
+effect, or that sort of artificial burst, which attends the first view of
+_Tintern_ abbey: but, as the ruin is larger, there is necessarily more to
+attract attention. Like Tintern also, it is unroofed--yet this unroofing
+has proceeded from a different cause: of which presently. The side aisles
+present you with a short flattened arch: the nave has none: but you observe
+a long pilaster-like, or alto-rilievo column, of slender dimensions,
+running from bottom to top, with a sort of Roman capital. The arched
+cieling and roof are entirely gone. We proceeded towards the eastern
+extremity, and saw more frightful ravages both of time and of accident. The
+latter however had triumphed over the former: but for _accident_ you must
+read _revolution_.
+
+The day had been rather oppressive for a May morning; and we were getting
+far into the afternoon, when clouds began to gather, and the sun became
+occasionally obscured. We seated ourselves upon a grassy hillock, and began
+to prepare for dinner. To the left of us lay a huge pile of fragments of
+pillars and groinings of arches--the effects of recent havoc: to the right,
+within three yards, was the very spot in which the celebrated AGNES SOREL,
+Mistress of Charles VII, lay entombed:[82]--not a relic of mausoleum now
+marking the place where, formerly, the sculptor had exhibited the choicest
+efforts of his art, and the devotee had repaired to
+
+Breathe a prayer for her soul--and pass on!
+
+What a contrast to the present aspect of things!--to the mixed rubbish and
+wild flowers with which every spot is now well nigh covered! The mistress
+of the inn having furnished us with napkins and tumblers, we partook of our
+dinner, surrounded by the objects just described, with no ordinary
+sensations. The air now became oppressive; when, looking through the few
+remaining unglazed mullions of the windows, I observed that the clouds grew
+blacker and blacker, while a faint rumbling of thunder reached our ears.
+The sun however yet shone gaily, although partially; and as the storm
+neared us, it floated as it were round the abbey, affording--by means of
+its purple, dark colour, contrasted with the pale tint of the walls,--one
+of the most beautiful painter-like effects imaginable. In an instant
+almost--and as if touched by the wand of a mighty necromancer--the whole
+scene became metamorphosed. The thunder growled, but only growled; and the
+threatening phalanx of sulphur-charged clouds rolled away, and melted into
+the quiet uniform tint which usually precedes sun-set. Dinner being
+dispatched, I rose to make a thorough examination of the ruins which had
+survived ... not only the Revolution, but the cupidity of the present owner
+of the soil--who is a _rich_ man, living at Rouen--and who loves to dispose
+of any portion of the stone, whether standing or prostrate, for the sake of
+the lucre, however trifling, which arises from the sale. Surely the whole
+corporation of the city of Rouen, with the mayor at their head, ought to
+stand between this ruthless, rich man, and the abbey--the victim of his
+brutal avarice and want of taste.[83]
+
+The situation of the abbey is delightful. It lies at the bottom of some
+gently undulating hills, within two or three hundred yards of the Seine.
+The river here runs gently, in a serpentine direction, at the foot of
+wood-covered hills--and all seemed, from our elevated station, indicative
+of fruitfulness, of gaiety, and of prosperity,--all--save the mournful and
+magnificent remains of the venerable abbey whereon we gazed! In fact, this
+abbey exists only as a shell. I descended, strolled about the village, and
+mingled in the conversation of the villagers. It was a lovely approach of
+evening--and men, women, and children were seated, or sauntering, in the
+open air. Perceiving that I was anxious to gain information, they flocked
+around me--and from one man, in particular, I obtained exact intelligence
+about the havoc which had been committed during the Revolution upon the
+abbey, The roof had been battered down for the sake of the _lead_--to make
+bullets; the pews, altars, and iron-work, had been converted into other
+destructive purposes of warfare; and the great bell had been sold to some
+speculators in a cannon-foundery at Rouen.[84] The revolutionary mania had
+even brutalized the Abbot. This man, who must be considered as
+
+    ....damned to everlasting fame,
+
+had been a monk of the monastery; and as soon as he had attained the
+headship of it, he disposed of every movable piece of furniture, to gratify
+the revolutionary pack which were daily howling at the gates of the abbey
+for entrance! Nor could he plead _compulsion_ as an excuse. He seemed
+to enjoy the work of destruction, of which he had the uncontrouled
+direction. But enough of this wretch.
+
+The next resting-place was CAUDEBEC: a very considerable village, or rather
+a small town. You go down a steep descent, on entering it by the route we
+came. As you look about, there are singular appearances on all sides--of
+houses, and hanging gardens, and elaborately cut avenues--upon summits,
+declivities, and on the plain. But the charm of the view, at least to my
+old-fashioned feelings, was a fine old gothic church, and a very fine spire
+of what _appeared_ to belong to another. As the evening had completely
+set in, I resolved to reserve my admiration of the place till the morrow.
+
+
+[78] [I am ignorant of his present destination; but learn that he has
+    quitted the above situation a long time.]
+
+[79] [Mr. COTMAN has published views of the West Front, the South East, the
+    West Entrance, and the South Transept, with sculptured capitals and
+    basso-relievos, &c. In the whole, seven plates.]
+
+[80] [Mr. Cotman has published etchings of the West Front: the Towers,
+    somewhat fore-shortened; the Elevation of the Nave--and doorway of the
+    Abbey: the latter an extremely interesting specimen of art. A somewhat
+    particular and animated description of it will be found in _Lieut.
+    Hall's Travels in France_, 8vo. p. 57, 1819. [In the first edition,
+    I had called the west end towers of the Abbey--"small." Mons. Licquet
+    has suggested that I must have meant "_comparatively_" small;--in
+    contradistinction to the centre-tower, which would have been larger.
+    We learn also from M. Licquet that the spire of this central tower was
+    demolished in 1573, by the Abbe le Veneur, Bishop of Evreux. What
+    earthly motive could have led to such a brutal act of demolition?]
+
+[81] ["I know perfectly well, says M. Licquet, the little Inn of which the
+    author here speaks. I can assure him that it never formed any portion
+    of the "chapter house." It was nevertheless une _dependance
+    exterieure_ (I will not attempt a version of this phrase) of the
+    abbey. Dare I venture to say it was the _cowhouse_? (etable aux
+    vaches). Thank you, good Mons. Licquet; but what is a cow-house but
+    "an _outer building_ attached to the Abbey?" Vide supra.]
+
+[82] [The heart and entrails only of this once celebrated woman were,
+    according to M. Licquet, buried in the above spot. The body was
+    carried to Loches: and BELLEFOREST _(Cosmog._ vol. i. Part ii.
+    col. 31-32. edit. 1575, folio) gives a description of the mausoleum
+    where it was there entombed: a description, adds M. Licquet, which may
+    well serve for the mausoleum that was at Jumieges.]
+
+[83] [Not the smallest portion or particle of a sigh escapes us, on being
+    told, as my translator has told us, that the "soil" in question has
+    become the property of another Owner. "Laius EST MORT"--are the
+    emphatic words of M. Licquet.]
+
+[84] [One of the bells of the Abbey of Jumieges is now in the Tower of that
+   of St. Ouen, at Rouen. LICQUET.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+CAUDEBEC. LILLEBONNE. BOLBEC. TANKARVILLE. MONTMORENCI CASTLE. HAVRE DE
+GRACE.
+
+
+My last concluded with our entrance into Caudebec. The present opens with a
+morning scene at the same place. For a miracle I was stirring before nine.
+The church was the first object of attraction. For the size of the place,
+it is really a noble structure: perhaps of the early part of the sixteenth,
+or latter part of the fifteenth century.[85] I speak of the exterior
+generally, and of a great portion of the interior. A little shabby
+green-baise covered door (as usual) was half open, and I entered with no
+ordinary expectations of gratification. The painted glass seemed absolutely
+to warm the place--so rich and varied were its colours. There is a great
+abundance of it, and especially of figures of family-groups
+kneeling--rather small, but with great appearance of portrait-like
+fidelity. They are chiefly of the first half of the sixteenth century: and
+I own that, upon gazing at these charming specimens of ancient painting
+upon glass, I longed to fix an artist before every window, to bear away
+triumphantly, in a portfolio of elephantine dimensions, a faithful copy of
+almost every thing I saw. In some of the countenances, I fancied I traced
+the pencil of LUCAS CRANACH--and even of HANS HOLBEIN.
+
+This church has numerous side chapels, and figures of patron-saints. The
+entombment of Christ in white marble, (at the end of the chapel of the
+Virgin,) is rather singular; inasmuch as the figure of Christ itself is
+ancient, and exceedingly fine in anatomical expression; but the usual
+surrounding figures are modern, and proportionably clumsy and inexpressive.
+I noted one mural monument, to the memory of _Guillaume Tellier_, which was
+dated 1484.[86] Few churches have more highly interested me than this at
+Caudebec.[87] From the church I strolled to the _Place_, where stood the
+caffe, by the banks of the Seine. The morning view of this scene perfectly
+delighted me. Nothing can be more picturesque. The river cannot be much
+less than a mile in width, and it makes a perfect bend in the form of a
+crescent. On one side, that on which the village stands, are walks and
+gardens through which peep numerous white villas--and on the other are
+meadows, terminating in lofty rising grounds--feathered with coppice-wood
+down to the very water's edge. This may be considered, in fact, only a
+portion of the vast _Forest de Brotonne_, which rises in wooded majesty on
+the opposite heights. The spirit and the wealth of our countrymen would
+make Caudebec one of the most enchanting summer-residences in the world.
+The population of the town is estimated at about five thousand.
+
+Judge of my astonishment, when, on going out of doors, I saw the river in a
+state of extreme agitation: the whole mass of water rising perpendicularly,
+as it were, and broad rippling waves rolling over each other. It was the
+_coming in of the tide_.... and within a quarter of an hour it appeared to
+have risen upwards of three feet. You may remember that, in our own
+country, the Severn-tides exhibit the same phenomenon; and I have seen the
+river at Glocester rise _at once_ to the height of eight or ten feet,
+throwing up a shower of foam from the gradually narrowing bed of the river,
+and causing all the craft, great and small, to rise up as if by magic, and
+to appear upon a level with the meadows. The tide at Caudebec, although
+similar in kind, was not so in degree; for it rose gradually yet most
+visibly--and within half an hour, the elevation could not have been less
+than _seven_ or _eight_ feet.
+
+Having walked for some time on the heights of the town, with which I was
+much gratified, I returned to my humble auberge, ordered the cabriolet to
+be got ready, and demanded the reckoning:--which, considering that I was
+not quite at an hotel-royale, struck me as being far from moderate. Two old
+women, of similar features and age, presented themselves as I was getting
+into the carriage: one was the mistress, and the other the fille de
+chambre. "Mais, Monsieur (observed one of them) n'oubliez pas, je vous
+prie, la fille-de-chambre--rappellez-vous que vos souliers ont ete
+superieurement decrottes." I took out a franc to remunerate the supposed
+fille-de-chambre--but was told it was the _mistress_. "N'importe, Monsieur,
+c'est a ce moment que je suis fille-de-chambre--quand vous serez parti, je
+serai la maitresse." The postilion seemed to enjoy this repartee as much as
+ourselves.
+
+I was scarcely out of the town half a mile, when I began to ascend. I found
+myself quickly in the middle of those rising grounds which are seen from
+the promenade or _Place du Caffe_, and could not look without extraordinary
+gratification upon the beautiful character of spring in its advanced state.
+The larch was even yet picturesque: the hazel and nut trees were perfectly
+clothed with foliage, of a tender yet joyous tint: the chestnut was
+gorgeously in bloom; the lime and beech were beginning to give abundant
+promise of their future luxuriance--while the lowlier tribes of laburnum
+and box, with their richly clad branches, covered the ground beneath
+entirely from view. The apple and pear blossoms still continued to
+variegate the wide sweep of foliage, and to fill the air with their
+delicious perfume. It might be Switzerland in miniature--or it might not.
+Only this I know--that it seemed as though one could live embosomed and
+enchanted in such a wilderness of sweets--reading the _fabliaux_ of the old
+Norman bards till the close of human existence!
+
+I found myself on a hard, strait, chalky old road--evidently Roman: and in
+due time perceived and entered the town of LILLEBONNE. But the sky had
+become overcast: soft and small rain was descending, and an unusual gloom
+prevailed ... when I halted, agreeably to my instructions, immediately
+before the gate of the ancient _Castle_. Venerable indeed is this Norman
+castle, and extensive are the ruins which have survived. I have a perfect
+recollection how it peeped out upon me--through the light leaf of the
+poplar, and the pink blossom of the apple. It lies close to the road, on
+the left. An old round tower, apparently of the time of William the
+Conqueror, very soon attracts your attention. The stones are large, and the
+interstices are also very considerable. It was here, says a yet current
+report, that William assembled the Barons of Normandy, and the invasion of
+England was determined upon. Such a spot therefore strikes an English
+beholder with no ordinary emotions. I alighted; sent the cabriolet to the
+inn, and wished both postilion and horses to get their dinners without
+delay. For myself, I had resolved to reserve my appetite till I reached
+_Bolbec_; and there was food enough before me of a different description,
+to exercise my intellectual digestion for at least the next hour. Knocking
+at the massive portals, I readily obtained admittance.
+
+The area, entirely a grass-plat, was occupied by several cows. In front,
+were evidently the ruins of a large chapel or church--perhaps of the XIVth
+century. The outer face of the walls went deeply and perpendicularly down
+to the bottom of a dry fosse; and the right angle portion of the building
+was covered with garden ground, where the owner showed us some peas which
+he boasted he should have at his table within five days. I own I thought he
+was very likely to carry his boast into execution; for finer vegetables, or
+a finer bed of earth, I had scarcely ever beheld. How things, my dear
+friend, are changed from their original character and destination! "But the
+old round tower," say you!--To "the old round tower" then let us go. The
+stair-case is narrow, dark, and decayed. I reached the first floor, or
+circular room, and noticed the construction of the window seats--all of
+rough, solid, and massive stone. I ascended to the second floor; which, if
+I remember rightly, was strewn with a portion of the third floor--that had
+fallen in from sheer decay. Great must have been the crash--as the
+fragments were huge, and widely scattered. On gaining a firm footing upon
+the outer wall; through a loop-hole window, I gazed around with equal
+wonder and delight. The wall of this castle could not be less than ten feet
+in thickness. A young woman, the shepherdess of the spot, attended as
+guide.
+
+"What is that irregular rude mound, or wall of earth, in the centre of
+which children are playing?" "It is the _old Roman Theatre_, Sir." I
+immediately called to mind M. Le Prevost's instructions--and if I could
+have borrowed the wings of a spirit, I should have instantly alighted upon
+the spot--but it was situated without the precincts of the old castle and
+its appurtenances, and a mortal leap would have been attended with a mortal
+result. "Have you many English who visit this spot?" said I to my
+guide.--"Scarcely _any_, Sir--it is a frightful place--full of desolation
+and sadness.." replied she. Again I gazed around, and in the distance,
+through an aperture in the orchard trees, saw the little fishing village of
+_Quillebeuf_,[88] quite buried, as it were, in the waters of the Seine. An
+arm of the river meanders towards Lillebonne. Having gratified my
+picturesque and antiquarian propensities, from this elevated situation, I
+retrod, with more difficulty than toil, my steps down the stair-case. A
+second stroll about the area, and along the skirts of the wall, was
+sufficient to convince me only--how slight and imperfect had been my
+survey!
+
+On quitting the portal through which I entered, and bidding adieu to my
+Shepherdess and guide, I immediately hastened towards the Roman
+Theatre.[89] The town of Lillebonne has a very picturesque appearance from
+the old mound, or raised terrace, along the outer walls of the castle. In
+five minutes I mingled with the school boys who were amusing themselves
+within the ruins of all that is left of this probably once vast and
+magnificent old theatre. It is only by clearing away a great quantity of
+earth, with which these ruins are covered, that you can correctly ascertain
+their character and state of preservation. M. Le Prevost bade me remark
+that the walls had much swerved from their original perpendicularity,--and
+that there was much irregularity in the laying of the bricks among the
+stones. But time, design, and accident, have each in turn (in all
+probability) so contributed to decompose, deface, and alter the original
+aspect of the building, that there is no forming a correct conjecture as to
+its ancient form. Earth, grass, trees, flowers, and weeds, have taken
+almost entire possession of some low and massive outer walls; so that the
+imagination has full play to supply all deficiencies which appear to the
+eye.
+
+From the whole of this interesting spot I retreated--with mixed sensations
+of melancholy and surprise--to the little auberge of the _Three Moors_, in
+the centre of the town. It had begun to rain smartly as we took shelter in
+the kitchen; where, for the first time since leaving England, I saw a
+display of utensils which might have vied with our own, or even with a
+Dutch interior, for neatness and order of disposition. Some of the dishes
+might have been as ancient as--not the old round Tower--but as the last
+English Duke of Normandy who might have banquetted there. The whole was in
+high polish and full display. On my complimenting the good _Aubergiste_
+upon so creditable a sight, she laughed, and replied briskly--"Ce n'est
+rien, ceci: Pentecote est tout pres, et donc vous verrez, Monsieur!"--It
+should seem that Whitsuntide was the season for a general household
+purification. Some of her furniture had once belonged to the Castle: but
+she had bought it, in the scramble which took place at the dispersion and
+destruction of the movables there, during the Revolution. I recommend all
+travellers to take a lunch, and enjoy a bottle of vin ordinaire, at _Les
+Trois-Negres._ I was obliged to summon up all my stock of knowledge in
+polite phraseology, in order to decline a plate of soup. "It was delicious
+above every thing"--"but I had postponed taking dinner till we got to
+Bolbec." "Bon--vous y trouverez un hotel superbe." The French are easily
+pleased; and civility is so cheap and current a coin abroad, that I wish
+our countrymen would make use of it a little more frequently than they
+appear to do. I started about two for Bolbec.
+
+The rain continued during the whole of my route thither; but it did not
+prevent me from witnessing a land of plenty and of picturesque beauty on
+all sides. Indeed it is scarcely possible to conceive a more rich and
+luxuriant state of culture. To the left, about half a league from
+Lillebonne, I passed the domain of a once wealthy, and extremely extensive
+abbey. They call it the _Abbey of Valasse._ A long rambling bare stone
+wall, and portions of a deserted ruin, kept in sight for full half an
+English mile. The immediate approach to BOLBEC is that of the entrance to a
+modern and flourishing trading town, which seems to be beginning to recover
+from the effects of the Revolution. After Rouen, and even Caudebec, it has
+a stiff modernized air. I drove to the principal inn, opposite the church,
+and bespoke dinner and a bed. The church is perfectly, modern, and equally
+heavy and large. Crowds of people were issuing from _Vespers_, when,
+ascending a flight of steps, (for it is built on ground considerably above
+the ground-floor of the inn) I resolved to wait for the final departure of
+the congregation, and to take a leisurely survey of the interior, while
+dinner was getting ready.
+
+The sexton was a perfect character in his way; old, shrewd, communicative,
+and civil. There were several confessionals. "What--you confess here pretty
+much?" "Yes, Sir; but chiefly females, and among them many widows." I had
+said nothing to provoke this ungallant reply. "In respect to the
+_sacrament_, what is the proportion between the communicants, as to sex?"
+"Sir, there are one hundred women to twelve men." I wish I could say that
+this disproportion were confined to _France_.
+
+Quitting this heavy and ugly, but large and commodious fabric, I sought the
+inn and dinner. The cook was in every respect a learned professor in his
+art, and the produce of his skill was equally excellent and acceptable. I
+had scarcely finished my repast, and the _Gruyere_ cheese and nuts yet
+lingered upon the table, when the soft sounds of an organ, accompanied by a
+youthful voice, saluted my ears in a very pleasing manner. "C'est LE
+PAUVRE PETIT SAVOYARD, Monsieur"--exclaimed the waiter--"Vous allez
+entendre un air touchant! Ah, le pauvre petit!"--"Comment ca?" "Monsieur,
+il n'a ni pere ni mere; mais pour le chant--oh Dieu, il n'y a personne qui
+chante comme le pauvre petit Savoyard!" I was well disposed to hear the
+song, and to admit the truth of the waiter's observation. The little
+itinerant stopped opposite the door, and sung the following air:--
+
+  _Bon jour, Bon soir_.
+
+    Je peindrai sans detour
+  Tout l'emploi de ma vie:
+  C'est de dire _bon jour_
+  Et _bon soir_ tour-a-tour.
+  _Bon Jour_ a mon amie,
+  Lorsque je vais la voir.
+  Mais au fat qui m'ennuie,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+    _Bon jour_ franc troubadour,
+  Qui chantez la bombance;
+  La paix et les beaux jours;
+  Bacchus et les amours.
+  Qu'un rimeur en demence
+  Vienne avec vous s'asseoir,
+  Pour chanter la Romance,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+    _Bon jour_, mon cher voisin,
+  Chez vous la soif m'entraine:
+  _Bonjour_--si votre vin
+  Est de Beaune ou du Rhin;
+  Mon gosier va sans peine
+  Lui servir d'entonnoir;
+  Mais s'il est de Surene,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+I know not how it was, but had the "petit Savoyard" possessed the
+cultivated voice of a chorister, I could not have listened to his notes
+with half the satisfaction with which I dwelt upon his history, as stated
+by the waiter. He had no sooner concluded and made his bow, than I bought
+the slender volume from which his songs had been chanted, and had a long
+gossip with him. He slung his organ upon his back, and "ever and anon"
+touching his hat, expressed his thankfulness, as much for the interest I
+had taken in his welfare, as for the trifling piece of silver which I slipt
+into his hand at parting. Meanwhile all the benches, placed on the outsides
+of the houses, were occupied--chiefly by females--to witness, it should
+seem, so novel and interesting a sight as an Englishman holding familiar
+discourse with a poor wandering Savoyard! My friend the sexton was among
+the spectators, and from his voice and action, appeared especially
+interested. "Que le bon Dieu vous benisse!" exclaimed the Savoyard, as I
+bade him farewell. On pursuing my route for a stroll upon the heights near
+the town, I had occasion to pass these benches of spectators. The women,
+almost without any exception, inclined their heads by way of a gracious
+salute; and Monsieur _le Sacristain_ pulled off his enormous cock'd hat
+with the consequence of a drum-major. He appeared not to have forgotten the
+donation which he had received in the church. Continuing my pursuit, I
+gained an elevated situation: whence, looking down upon the spot where I
+had left the Savoyard, I observed him surrounded by the females--each and
+every one of them apparently convulsed with laughter! Even the little
+musician appeared to have forgotten his "orphan state."
+
+The environs of _Bolbec_, especially in the upper part, are sufficiently
+picturesque. At least they are sufficiently fruitful: orchards, corn and
+pasture land--intermixed with meadows, upon which cotton was spread for
+bleaching--produced altogether a very interesting effect. The little
+hanging gardens, attached to labourer's huts, contributed to the beauty of
+the scene. A warm crimson sun-set seemed to envelope the coppice wood in a
+flame of gold. The road was yet reeking with moisture--and I retraced my
+steps, through devious and slippery paths, to the hotel. Evening had set
+in: the sound of the Savoyard's voice was no longer heard: I ordered tea
+and candles, and added considerably to my journal before I went to bed. I
+rose at five; and before six the horses were harnessed to the cabriolet.
+Having obtained the necessary instructions for reaching _Tancarville_, (the
+ancient and proud seat of the MONTMORENCIS) I paid my reckoning, and left
+Bolbec. As I ascended a long and rather steep hill, and, looking to the
+right and left, saw every thing in a state of verdure and promise, I did
+all I could to persuade myself that the journey would be agreeable, and
+that the castle of Montmorenci could not fail to command admiration. I was
+now in the high and broad "_route royale_" to Havre le Grace; but had
+scarcely been a league upon it, when, looking at my instructions, we struck
+out of the high road, to the left, and followed a private one through flat
+and uninteresting arable land. I cannot tell how many turns were taken, or
+how many pretty little villages were passed--till, after a long and gradual
+ascent, we came upon a height, flanked the greater part by coppice wood,
+through one portion of which--purposely kept open for the view--was seen at
+a distance a marvellously fine group of perpendicular rocks (whose grey and
+battered sides were lighted up with a pink colour from the morning sun) in
+the middle, as it were, of the _Seine_--which now really assumed an
+ocean-like appearance. In fact, these rocks were at a considerable
+distance, and appeared to be in the broadest part of the embouchure of that
+river. I halted the cabriolet; and gazed with unfeigned delight on this
+truly magnificent and fascinating scene!... for the larks were now mounting
+all around, and their notes, added to those of the "songsters of the
+grove," produced an effect which I even preferred to that from the organ
+and voice of the "pauvre petit Savoyard." The postboy partook of my
+rapture. "Voila, Monsieur, des rochers terriblement perpendiculiers--eh,
+quelle belle vue de la riviere, et du paysage!"
+
+Leaving this brilliant picture, we turned rather to the left, and then
+found our descent proportionably gradual with the ascent. The Seine was now
+right before us, as hasty glimpses of it, through partial vistos, had
+enabled us to ascertain. Still _Tancarville_ was deemed a terrible way off.
+First we were to go up, and then we were to go down--now to turn to the
+right, and afterwards to the left--a sort of [Greek: polla d'ananta
+katanta] route--when a prepossessing young paysanne told the postilion,
+that, after passing through such a wood, we should reach an avenue, from
+the further end of which the castle of _Montmorenci_ would be visible..
+"une petite lieue de distance." Every thing is "une petite lieue!" It is
+the answer to every question relating to distance. Though the league be
+double a German one, still it is "une petite!" Here however the paysanne
+happened to be right. We passed through the wood, gained the avenue, and
+from the further end saw--even yet towering in imposing magnitude--the
+far-famed _Chateau de Montmorenci_. It might be a small league off. I
+gained spirits and even strength at the sight: told the postilion to mend
+his pace--of which he gave immediate and satisfactory demonstration, while
+the echoes of his whip resounded along the avenue. A closer road now
+received us. Knolls of grass interwoven with moss, on the summits of which
+the beech and lime threw up their sturdy stems, now enclosed the road,
+which began to widen and to improve in condition. At length, turning a
+corner, a group of country people appeared--"Est-ce ici la route de
+Tancarville?"--"Tancarville est tout pres: c'est la, ou on voit la fumee
+des cheminees." Joyful intelligence! The post-boy increased his speed: The
+wheels seemed to move with a readier play: and in one minute and a half I
+was upon the beach of the river Seine, and alighted at the door of the only
+auberge in the village.
+
+I know you to be both a lover of and connoisseur in Rembrandt's pictures:
+and especially of those of his _old_ characters. I wish you could have seen
+the old woman, of the name of _Bucan_, who came out of this same auberge to
+receive us. She had a sharp, quick, constantly moving black eye; keen
+features, projecting from a surface of flesh of a subdued mahogany tint;
+about her temples, and the lower part of her cheeks, were all those
+harmonizing wrinkles which become old age--_upon canvas_--while, below her
+chin, communicating with a small and shrunken neck, was that sort of
+concavity, or dewlap, which painters delight to express with a minuteness
+of touch, and mellowness of tint, that contribute largely to picturesque
+effect! This good old woman received us with perfect elasticity of spirits
+and of action. It should seem that we were the first Englishmen who had
+visited her solitude this year. Her husband approached, but she soon
+ordered him "to the right about"--to prepare fuel, coffee, and eggs. I was
+promised the best breakfast that could be got in Normandy, in twenty
+minutes. The inn being sufficiently miserable, I was anxious for a ramble.
+The tide was now coming up, as at Caudebec; but the sweep and breadth of
+the river being, upon a considerably larger scale, its increase was not yet
+so obvious--although I am quite sure that all the flats, which I saw on my
+arrival as a bed of mud, were, within a quarter of an hour, wholly covered
+with the tide: and, looking up to the right, I perceived the perpendicular
+walls of _Montmorenci Castle_ to be washed by the refluent wave. It was a
+sort of ocean in miniature before me. A few miserable fishing boats were
+moored upon the beach; while a small number of ill-clad and straggling
+villagers lingered about the same spot, and seemed to look upon the postboy
+and myself as beings dropt from the sky!
+
+On ascending a considerable elevation, I had the gratification of viewing
+_Quillebeuf_ a little more nearly. It was almost immediately opposite:
+while, to the right, contemplating the wide sweep of the river towards its
+embouchure, I fancied that I could see _Havre_. The group of rocks, which
+had so charmed us on our journey, now assumed a different character. On
+descending, I could discover, although at a considerable distance, the old
+woman standing at the door of the auberge--apparently straining her eyes to
+catch a glimpse of us; and she was almost disposed to scold for having put
+her reputation of giving good breakfasts to so hazardous a trial. The wood
+was blazing, and the room was almost filled by smoke--but a prolonged fast,
+and a stage of sixteen or eighteen miles, in a keen morning air, made Mr.
+Lewis and myself only think of allaying our hunger. In every public house,
+however mean, you see the white metal fork, and the napkin covering the
+plate. A dozen boiled eggs, and a coffee pot and cups of perfectly
+Brobdignagdian dimensions, with tolerable bread and indifferent butter,
+formed the _materiel_ of our breakfast. The postboy, having stabled and
+refreshed his horses, was regaling himself in the kitchen--but-how do you
+think he was regaling himself?--Truly, in stretching himself upon a bench,
+and reading, as old Ascham expresses it, "a merry tale in Boccace." In
+other words, he was reading a French version of the Decameron of that
+celebrated author. Indeed, I had already received sufficient proof of the
+general propensity of the common people to _read_--whether good or bad
+books ... but let us hope and believe the former. I left the bibliomaniacal
+postboy to his Boccaccio, and prepared to visit the CASTLE... the once
+proud and yet commanding residence of the family of MONTMORENCI.
+
+I ascended--with fresh energies imparted from my breakfast. The day grew
+soft, and bright, and exhilarating ... but alas! for the changes and
+chances of every thing in this transitory world. Where was the warder? He
+had ceased to blow his horn for many a long year. Where was the harp of the
+minstrel? It had perished two centuries ago, with the hand that had struck
+its chords. Where was the attendant guard?--or pursuivants--or men at arms?
+They had been swept from human existence, like the leaves of the old limes
+and beech trees by which the lower part of the building was surrounded. The
+moat was dry; the rampart was a ruin:--the rank grass grew within the
+area... nor can I tell you how many relics of halls, banqueting rooms, and
+bed-rooms, with all the magnificent appurtenances of old castellated
+architecture, struck the eager eye with mixed melancholy and surprise! The
+singular half-circular, and half square, corner towers, hanging over the
+ever-restless wave, interested me exceedingly. The guide shewed me where
+the prisoners used to be kept--in a dungeon, apparently impervious to every
+glimmer of day-light, and every breath of air. I cannot pretend to say at
+what period even the oldest part of the Castle of Montmorenci was built:
+but I saw nothing that seemed to be more ancient than the latter end of the
+fifteenth century.[90] Perhaps the greater portion may be of the beginning
+of the sixteenth; but, amidst the unroofed rooms, I could not help admiring
+the painted borders, chiefly of a red colour, which run along the upper
+part of the walls, or wainscoats--giving indication not only of a good, but
+of a splendid, taste. Did I tell you that this sort of ornament was to be
+seen in some parts of the eastern end of the Abbey of Jumieges? _Here_,
+indeed, they afforded evidence--an evidence, mingled with melancholy
+sensations on reflection--of the probable state of magnificence which once
+reigned throughout the castle. Between the corner towers, upon that part
+which runs immediately parallel with the Seine, there is a noble terrace,
+now converted into garden ground--which commands an immediate and extensive
+view of the embouchure of the river. It is the property of a speculator,
+residing at Havre.
+
+The cabriolet meeting me at the bottom of the mound upon which the castle
+is built, (having paid the reckoning before I left the inn), I had nothing
+to do but to step in, and push forward for _Havre_. Retracing the road
+through which we came, we darted into the _Route Royale_, and got upon one
+of the noblest high roads in France. Between _Tancarville_ and _Havre_ lie
+_Hocher_ and _Harfleur_; each almost at the water's edge. I regretted I
+could not see the former; but on our approach to Harfleur I observed, to
+the right, some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly built, country
+villas or modern chateaux. The immediate run down to Harfleur is
+exceedingly pleasing; and though we trotted sharply through the town, the
+exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon me. Few places, I
+believe, for its dimensions, have been more celebrated in the middle ages
+than Harfleur. The Seine to the left becomes broader and bolder; and,
+before you, beneath some wooded heights, lies HAVRE. Every thing gives
+indication of commerce and prosperity as you gain upon the town. The houses
+increase in number and respectability of appearance--"Voyez-vous la,
+Monsieur, a droite, ces belles maisons de plaisance?--(exclaimed the
+charioteer)--"C'est la ou demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes: ma foi, ils
+ont un joli gout." The first glance upon these stone houses confirmed the
+sagacity of the postilion. They are gloriously situated--facing the ocean;
+while the surrounding country teems with fish and game of every species.
+Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in his
+description of such trout-streams as were those before us.
+
+But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds of vessels are seen in the
+commodious docks; and the flags of merchantmen, from all quarters of the
+globe, appear to stream from the mast-heads. It is a scene of bustle, of
+business, and variety; and perfectly English. What a contrast to the gloomy
+solitude of Montmorenci! The outer and inner gates are passed. _Diligences_
+issue from every quarter. The centinels relieve guard. The sound of horns,
+from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on all
+sides.... Driving up the high street, we approached the hotel of the _Aigle
+d'Or,_[91] kept by Justin, and considered to be the best. We were just in
+time for the table d'hote, and to bespeak excellent beds. Travellers were
+continually arriving and departing. What life and animation!... We sat down
+upwards of forty to dinner: and a good dinner it was. Afterwards, I settled
+for the cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu!--nor can I suppress my
+feelings in saying that, in wishing him farewell, I felt ten times more
+than I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postilion.
+
+
+[85] The nave was begun in 1416. LICQUET.
+
+[86] Corrected by Mons. Licquet: with thanks from the Author. It was,
+    before, 1184.
+
+[87] Lieutenant Hall has well described it. I did not see his description
+    till more than a twelvemonth after my own had been written. A part may
+    be worth extracting.... "The principal object of attraction is the
+    CHURCH, the gothic spire of which is encircled by fillets of roses,
+    beautifully carved in stone, and continued to the very summit of the
+    steeple. The principal portal too is sculptured with no less richness
+    and delicacy than that of St. Maclou at Rouen. Its interior length is
+    about 250 feet by 72 of width. The central aisle [nave] is flanked on
+    either side by ten massive circular columns, the capitals of which
+    represent vine leaves and other decorations, more fanciful, and not
+    less rich, than the Corinthian acanthus.... In one of the chapels
+    there is a rude monumental effigy of the original architect of this
+    church. It consists of a small skeleton, drawn in black lines, against
+    a tablet in the wall: a mason's level and trowel, with the plan of a
+    building, are beside it, and an inscription in gothic characters,
+    relating that the architect endowed the church he had built with
+    certain lands, and died Anno 1484." _Travels in France_, p. 47,
+    1819, 8vo. I take this to be GUILLAUME TELLIER--mentioned above: but
+    in regard to the lands with which Tellier endowed the church, the
+    inscription says nothing. LICQUET.
+
+[88] Small as may be this village, and insignificant as may be its aspect,
+    it is one of the most important places, with respect to navigation, in
+    the whole course of the river Seine. Seven years ago there were not
+    fewer than _four-score_ pilots settled here, by order of government,
+    for the purpose of guarding against accidents which arise from a want
+    of knowledge of the navigation of the river. In time of peace this
+    number would necessarily be increased. In the year 1789 there were
+    upwards of 250 English vessels which passed it--averaging, in the
+    whole, 19,000 tons. It is from _Quillebeuf_ to _Havre_ that the
+    accidents arise. The author of a pompous, but very instructive memoir,
+    "_sur la Topographie et la Statistique de la Ville de Quillebeuf et de
+    l'embouchure de la Seine, ayant pour objet-principal la navigation et
+    la peche_," (published in the Transactions of the Rouen Society for
+    the year 1812, and from which the foregoing information has been
+    obtained) mentions three or four _wrecks_ which have taken place in
+    the immediate vicinity of Quillebeuf: and it should seem that a _calm_
+    is, of all things, the most fatal. The currents are strong, and the
+    vessel is left to the mercy of the tides in consequence. There are
+    also rocks and sand banks in abundance. Among the wrecks, was one, in
+    which a young girl of eighteen years of age fell a victim to the
+    ignorance of the pilot. The vessel made a false tack between _Hode_
+    and _Tancarville_, and running upon a bank, was upset in an instant.
+    An English vessel once shared the same calamity. A thick fog suddenly
+    came on, when the sloop ran upon a bank near the _Nez de Tancarville_,
+    and the crew had just time to throw themselves into the boat and
+    escape destruction. The next morning, so sudden and so decisive was
+    the change wrought by the sand and current, that, of the sloop, there
+    remained, at ebb-tide, only ten feet of her mast visible! It appears
+    that the _Quillebois_, owing to their detached situation, and their
+    peculiar occupations, speak a very barbarous French. They have a sort
+    of sing-song method of pronunciation; and the _g_ and _j_ are
+    strangely perverted by them. Consult the memoir here referred to;
+    which occupies forty octavo pages: and which forms a sequel to a
+    previous communication (in 1810) "upon the Topography and Medical
+    properties of Quillebeuf and its adjacent parts." The author is M.
+    Boismare. His exordium is a specimen of the very worst possible taste
+    in composition. One would suppose it to be a prelude to an account of
+    the discovery of another America!
+
+[89] ["The Roman Circus (says M. Licquet) is now departmental property.
+    Many excavations have already taken place under the directions of
+    Mons. Le Baron de Vanssay, the present Prefect of the Department. The
+    most happy results may be anticipated. It was in a neighbouring
+    property that an ANTIQUE BRONZE GILT STATUE, of the size of life, was
+    lately found," vol. i. 194. Of this statue, Mr. Samuel Woodburn, (with
+    that spirit of liberality and love of art which have uniformly
+    characterised his purchases) became the Owner. The sum advanced for it
+    was very considerable; but, in one sense, Mr. W. may be said to have
+    stood as the Representative of his country; for the French Government
+    declining to give the Proprietor the sum which he asked, Mr. Woodburn
+    purchased it--solely with the view of depositing it, on the same terms
+    of purchase, in a NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART, of which the bequest of Mr.
+    Payne Knight's ancient bronzes and coins, and the purchase of Mr.
+    Angerstein's pictures, might be supposed to lay the foundation.
+
+    This statue was accordingly brought over to England, and freely
+    exhibited to the curious admirers of ancient art. It is the figure of
+    an APOLLO--the left arm, extended to hold the lyre, being mutilated. A
+    portion of the limbs is also mutilated; but the torso, head and legs,
+    are entire: and are, of their kind, of the highest class of art.
+    Overtures were made for its purchase by government. The Trustees of
+    the British Museum were unanimous both in their admiration and
+    recommendation of it: it was indeed "strongly recommended" by them to
+    the Treasury. Several months however elapsed before an answer could be
+    obtained; and that answer, when it _did_ come, was returned in
+    THE NEGATIVE. The disappointment of reasonably indulged hopes of
+    success, was the least thing felt by its owner. It was the necessity
+    of transporting it, in consequence, to enrich a _rival
+    capital_--which, were its means equal to its wishes and good taste, it
+    must be confessed, makes us frequently blush for the comparative want
+    of energy and liberality, at home, in matters relating to ANCIENT
+    ART.]
+
+[90] Mr. Cotman has a view of the gateway of Tancarville, or Montmorenci
+    Castle.
+
+[91] I am not sure whether this inn be called the _Armes de France_,
+    or as above.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XI
+
+HAVRE DE GRACE. HONFLEUR. JOURNEY TO CAEN.
+
+_Caen, May_, 1818.
+
+
+Well, my friend!... I have at length visited the interior of the Abbey of
+St. Stephen, and have walked over the grave of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR and of
+MATHILDA his wife. But as you dearly love the gossip of a travelling
+journal, I shall take up the thread of my narrative from the place in which
+I last addressed you:--particularly as our route hither was marked by some
+circumstances worthy of recital. First, however, for _Havre_.
+
+I staid there only long enough to express my regret that the time of my
+residence could not be extended. It happened to be a fine afternoon, and I
+took a leisurely stroll upon the docks and ramparts.[92] The town was full
+of animation--whether relating to business or to pleasure. For the former,
+you must visit the quays; for the latter, you must promenade the high
+street, and more especially the _Boulevards_, towards the heights. The sun
+shone merrily, as it were, upon the thousands of busy, bustling, and
+bawling human creatures.. who were in constant locomotion in this latter
+place.
+
+What a difference between the respective appearances of the quays of Dieppe
+and Havre? Although even _here_ things would assume a rubbishing and
+littered aspect compared with the quays at _Liverpool_ or at _Hull_, yet it
+must be admitted, for the credit of Gallico-Norman commerce, that the quays
+of Havre make a very respectable appearance. You see men fiddling, dancing,
+sleeping, sitting, and of course talking _a pleine gorge_, in groups
+without end--but no drunkenness!.. not even an English oath saluted my ear.
+The Southampton packets land their crews at Havre. I saw the arrival of one
+of these packets; and was cruel enough to contrast the animated and elastic
+spirits of a host of French _laqnais de place_, tradespeople,
+&c.--attacking the passengers with cards of their address--with the feeble
+movements and dejected countenances of the objects of their attack.
+
+From the quays, I sauntered along the ramparts, which are flanked by broad
+ditches--of course plentifully supplied with water; and passing over the
+drawbridge, by which all carriages enter the town--and which absolutely
+trembles as if about to sink beneath you, as the _diligence_ rolls over
+it.--I made for the boulevards and tea-gardens; to which, business being
+well nigh over, the inhabitants of Havre flock by hundreds and by
+thousands. A fine afternoon throws every thing into "good keeping"--as the
+artists say. The trees, and meadows, and upper lands, were not only bright
+with the sun-beam, but the human countenance was lighted up with gladness.
+The occupations partook of this joyful character. Accordingly there was
+dancing and singing on all sides; a little beyond, appeared to sit a group
+of philosophers, or politicians, upon a fantastically cut seat, beneath
+laburnums streaming with gold; while, still further, gradually becoming
+invisible from the foliage and winding path, strolled pairs in more gentle
+discourse! Meanwhile the whoop and halloo of school-boys, in rapid and
+ceaseless evolutions, resounded through the air, and heightened the
+gratification of the scene....
+
+  And young and old came out to play
+  Upon a sun-shine holiday.
+
+Gaining a considerable ascent, I observed knolls of rich verdure, with fine
+spreading trees, and elegant mansions, to be in the foreground--in the
+middle-ground, stood the town of Havre:--in the distance, rolled and roared
+the expansive ocean! The sun was visibly going to rest; but his departing
+beams yet sparkled upon the more prominent points of the picture. There was
+no time for finishing the subject. After a stroll of nearly a couple of
+hours, on this interesting spot, I retraced my steps over the draw-bridge,
+and prepared for objects of _still_ life; in other words, for the
+examination of what might be curious and profitable in the shape of a
+_boke_.
+
+The lamps were lighted when I commenced my _Bibliomaniacal Voyage_ of
+discovery among the BOOKSELLERS. But what poverty of materials, for a man
+educated in the schools of Fust and Caxton! To every question, about rare
+or old books, I was told that I should have been on the Continent when the
+allies first got possession of Paris. In fact, I had not a single
+_trouvaille_.
+
+The packet was to sail by nine the next morning, precisely. For a wonder,
+(or rather no wonder at all, considering what had occurred during the last
+twenty-four hours) I had an excellent night's rest, and was prepared for
+breakfast by eight. Having breakfasted, I accompanied my luggage to the
+inner harbour, and observed the _Honfleur_ packet swarming with passengers,
+and crammed with every species of merchandize: especially tubs, casks,
+trunks, cordage, and earthenware. We went on board, and took our stations
+near the helm; and after experiencing a good deal of _uncomfortable_
+heaving of the ocean, got clear from the mouth of the harbour, and stood
+out to sea. The tide was running briskly and strongly into the harbour. We
+were in truth closely stowed; and as these packets are built with flattish
+bottoms, and low sides, a rough sea would not fail to give to a crew, thus
+exposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats. Luckily the wind began to
+subside, and by degrees old ocean wore a face of undisturbed serenity. Our
+crew was a motley one; but among them, an Abbess, with a visage of
+parchment-like rigidity, and with her broad streaming bands, seemed to
+experience particular distress. She was surrounded by some hale, hearty
+market women, whose robust forms, and copper-tinted countenances, formed a
+striking contrast to her own. A little beyond was an old officer or two,
+with cocked hats of the usually capacious dimensions. But the poor Abbess
+was cruelly afflicted; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the most
+piteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation below.
+
+Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I had leisure
+to survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed; and looking towards the
+course of the River Seine, as it narrowed in its windings, I discovered
+_Harfleur_ and _Hocher_ nearly opposite; and, a good deal lower down, the
+little fishing town of _Quillebeuf_, apparently embedded in the water.
+Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing towns[93]--or
+whatever be the staple commodity that supports it. But the environs make
+amends for the squalidness of the town. A few years of peace and plenty
+would work wonders even in the improvements of these environs. Perhaps no
+situation is more favourable for the luxury of a summer retirement.[94] I
+paid only eight sous for my passage; and having no passport to be _vised_
+(which indeed was the case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or two, from
+the crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to carry our luggage to the inn
+from which the diligence sets off for CAEN. It surprised us to see with
+what alacrity these lads carried the baggage up a steep hill in their
+trucks, or barrows; but we were disgusted with the miserable forms, and
+miserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered as we proceeded. I
+was fortunate to be in time to secure my place in the Diligence. The horses
+were in the very act of being put to, as I paid my reckoning beforehand.
+
+Judge of our surprise and gratification on seeing two well-dressed, and
+apparently well-bred Englishmen, securing their places at the same time. It
+is not always that, at first sight, Englishmen associate so quickly, and
+apparently so cordially, as did these gentlemen with ourselves. They were
+the Messrs. D*** of _L_**** _Hall_ in Yorkshire: the elder brother an
+Oxford man of the same standing with myself. The younger, a Cantab. We were
+all bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce upon this expedition.
+
+We proceeded at a good sharp pace; and as we ascended the very high hill on
+the direct road to Caen, with fine leafy trees on each side, and upon a
+noble breadth of road, I looked out of the diligence to enjoy the truly
+magnificent view of the Seine--with glimpses of _Harfleur_ and _Havre_ on
+the opposite coast. The cessation of the rain, and the quick movement of
+the vehicle, enabled me to do this in a tolerably commodious manner. The
+ground however seemed saturated, and the leaves glistened with the
+incumbent moisture. There was a sort of pungent freshness of scent
+abroad--and a rich pasture land on each side gave the most luxuriant
+appearance to the landscape. Nature indeed seemed to have fructified every
+thing in a manner at once spontaneous and perfect. The face of the country
+is pasture-land throughout; that is to say, there are comparatively few
+orchards and little arable. I was told to pay attention to the cattle, for
+that the farmers prided themselves on their property of this kind. They may
+pride themselves--if they please: but their pride is not of a lofty cast of
+character. I have been in Lincolnshire, Herefordshire, and
+Gloucestershire--and have seen and enjoyed, in these counties, groups of
+cattle which appeared calculated for the land and the table of giants,
+compared with the Lilliputian objects, of the bucoline species, which were
+straying, in thin flocks, through the luxuriant pastures of Normandy. That
+triumphant and immutable maxim of "small bone and large carcase" seems,
+alas! to be unknown in these regions.
+
+However, on we rode--and gazed on all sides. At length we reached _Pont
+L'Eveque_, a pretty long stage; where we dined (says my journal) upon roast
+fowl, asparagus, trout, and an excellent omelette, with two good bottles of
+vin ordinaire--which latter, for four Englishmen, was commendably moderate.
+During dinner the rain came down again in yet heavier torrents--the gutters
+foamed, and the ground smoked with the unceasing fall of the water. In the
+midst of this aquatic storm, we toasted Old England right merrily and
+cordially; and the conducteur, seeing us in good humour, told us that "we
+need not hurry, for that he preferred a dry journey to a wet one." We
+readily assented to this position; but within half an hour, the weather
+clearing, we remounted: and by four o'clock, we all got inside--and
+politics, religion, literature, and the fine arts, kept us in constant
+discourse and good humour as we rolled on for many a league. All the way to
+_Troarn_ (the last stage on this side of Caen) the country presents a truly
+lovely picture of pasture land. There are occasionally some wooded heights,
+in which English wealth and English taste would have raised villas of the
+prettiest forms, and with most commanding views. Yet there is nothing to be
+mentioned in the same breath with the country about Rodwell in
+Glocestershire. Nor are the trees of the same bulk and luxuriant foliage as
+are those in our own country. A fine oak is as rare as an uncut _Wynkyn de
+Worde_:[95] but creeping rivulets, rich coppice wood, avenues of elms and
+limes, and meadows begemmed with butter-cups--these are the characteristics
+of the country through which we were passing. It is in vain however you
+look for neat villas or consequential farm houses: and as rarely do you see
+groups of villagers reposing, or in action. A dearth of population gives to
+French landscape a melancholy and solitary cast of character. It is in
+cities that you must look for human beings--and _for_ cities the French
+seem to have been created.
+
+It was at _Troarn_, I think, or at some halting place beyond, that our
+passports were demanded, and the examination of our trunks solicited. We
+surrendered our keys most willingly. The gentlemen, with their cocked hats
+and blue jackets--having a belt from which a sword was suspended--consulted
+together for a minute only--returned our keys--and telling us that matters
+would be thoroughly looked into at Caen, said they would give us no
+trouble. We were of course not sorry at this determination--and the Messrs.
+D---and myself getting once more into the cabriolet, (a postboy being
+secured for the leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and curiosity for
+a view of the steeples of CAEN. Unluckily the sun had set, and the horizon
+had become gloomy, when we first discovered the spires of _St. Stephen's
+Abbey_--the principal ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard upon nine
+o'clock; and the evening being extremely dusky, we had necessarily a very
+indistinct view of the other churches--but, to my eye, as seen in a
+lengthened view, and through a deceitful atmosphere, Caen had the
+appearance of OXFORD on a diminutive scale. The town itself, like our
+famous University, is built in a slanting direction; though the surrounding
+country is yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered it, all the
+population seemed collected to witness our arrival. From solitude we
+plunged at once into tumult, bustle, and noise. We stopped at the _Hotel
+d'Espagne--_a large, but black and begrimed mansion. Here our luggage was
+taken down; and here we were assailed by garcons de place, with cards in
+their hands, intreating us to put up at their respective hotels. We had
+somehow got a recommendation to the _Hotel Royale, Place Royale_, and such
+a union of _royal_ adjuncts was irresistible. Accordingly, we resolved upon
+moving thither. In a trice our trunks were placed upon barrows: and we
+marched behind, "in double quick time," in order to secure our property.
+The town appeared to improve as we made our different turnings, and gained
+upon our hotel. "Le voila, Messieurs"--exclaimed our guides and
+baggage-conductors--as we got into a goodly square, and saw a fair and
+comely mansion in front. The rush of landlord, waiting maids, and garcons
+de place, encountered us as we entered. "Messieurs, je vous salue,"--said a
+huge, ungracious looking figure:--which said figure was nothing less than
+the master of the hotel--Mons. Lagouelle. We were shown into a small room
+on the ground floor, to the right--and ordered tea; but had scarcely begun
+to enjoy the crackling blaze of a plentiful wood fire, when the same
+ungracious figure took his seat by the side of us ... to tell us "all about
+THE DUEL."
+
+I had heard (from an English gentleman in the packet boat from Havre to
+Honfleur) something respecting this most extraordinary duel between a young
+Englishman and a young Frenchman: but as I mean to reserve my _Caen budget_
+for a distinct dispatch, and as I have yet hardly tarried twenty hours in
+this place, I must bid you adieu; only adding that I dreamt, last night,
+about some English antiquaries trying to bend the bow of William the
+Conqueror!--Can this be surprising? Again farewell.
+
+
+[92] Evelyn, who visited Havre in 1644, when the Duke de Richlieu was
+    governor, describes the citadel as "strong and regular, well stored
+    with artillery, &c. The works furnished with faire brass canon, having
+    a motto, "_Ratio ultima Regum_." The haven is very spacious." _Life
+    and Writings of John Evelyn_, edit. 1818, vol. i. p. 51. Havre seems
+    always to have been a place of note and distinction in more senses
+    than one. In Zeiller's _Topographia Galliae,_ (vol. iii.) there is a
+    view of it, about the period in which Evelyn saw it, by Jacques
+    Gomboust, Ingenieur du Roy, from which it appears to have been a very
+    considerable place. Forty-two principal buildings and places are
+    referred to in the directions; and among them we observe the
+    BOULEVARDS DE RICHELIEU.
+
+[93] It was so in Evelyn's time: in 1644, "It is a poore fisher
+    towne (says he) remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull
+    habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as of
+    raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts." _Life and Writings of
+    J. Evelyn_; 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 51.
+
+[94] [It is near a chapel, on one of the heights of this town, that Mr.
+    Washington Irving fixes one of his most exquisitely drawn characters,
+    ANNETTE DELABRE, as absorbed in meditation and prayer respecting the
+    fate of her lover; and I have a distinct recollection of a beautiful
+    piece of composition, by one of our most celebrated artists, in which
+    the _Heights of Honfleur_, with women kneeling before a crucifix
+    in the foreground, formed a most beautiful composition. The name of
+    the artist (was it the younger Mr. Chalon?) I have forgotten.]
+
+[95] [My translator says, "un Wynkyn de Worde non coupe:" Qu. Would not the
+    _Debure_ Vocabulary have said "non rogne?"]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+CAEN. SOIL. SOCIETY. EDUCATION. A DUEL. OLD HOUSES. THE ABBEY OF ST.
+STEPHEN. CHURCH OF ST. PIERRE DE DARNETAL. ABBE DE LA SAINTE TRINITE. OTHER
+PUBLIC EDIFICES.
+
+
+I have now resided upwards of a week at Lagouelle's, the _Hotel Royale_,
+and can tell you something of the place and of the inhabitants of CAEN.
+Caen however is still-life after Rouen: but it has been, and yet is, a town
+exceedingly well-deserving the attention of the lounging traveller and of
+the curious antiquary. Its ecclesiastical edifices are more ancient, but
+less vast and splendid, than those of Rouen; while the streets and the
+houses are much more wide and comfortable. This place is the capital of the
+department of CALVADOS, or of LOWER NORMANDY: and its population is
+estimated at forty thousand souls. It has a public library, a school of
+art, a college, mayoralty, and all the adjuncts of a corporate society.[96]
+But I must first give you something in the shape of political economy
+intelligence. Caen with its arrondissemens of _Bayeux, Vire, Falaise,
+Lisieux, Pont L'Eveque_, is the country of pasturage and of cattle. It is
+also fertile in the apple and pear; and although at _Argences_ there have
+been vineyards from time immemorial, yet the produce of the grape, in the
+character of _wine_,[97] is of a very secondary description. There are
+beautiful and most abundant market gardens about Caen; and for the last
+seventy years they have possessed a garden for the growth and cultivation
+of foreign plants and trees. It is said that more than nine hundred species
+of plants and trees are to be found in the department of CALVADOS, of which
+some (but I know not how many or how few) are considered as indigenous. Of
+forests and woods, the number is comparatively small; and upon that limited
+number great injuries were inflicted by the Revolution. In the
+arrondissement of Caen itself, there are only 344 _hectares_.[98] The truth
+is, that in the immediate neighbourhood of populous towns, the French have
+no idea of PLANTING. They suffer plain after plain, and hill after hill, to
+be denuded of trees, and make no provision for the supply of those who are
+to come after them. Thus, not only a great portion of the country about
+Rouen--(especially in the direction of the road leading to Caen--) is
+gradually left desolate and barren, but even here, as you approach the
+town, there is a dreary flatness of country, unrefreshed by the verdure of
+foliage: whereas the soil, kind and productive by nature, requires only the
+slightest attention of man to repay him a hundred fold. What they will do
+some fifty years hence for _fuel_, is quite inconceivable. It is true that
+the river Orne, by means of the tide, and of its proximity to the sea,
+brings up vessels of even 200 tons burthen, in which they may stow plenty
+of wood; but still, the expenses of carriage, and duties of a variety of
+description--together with the _dependence_ of the town upon such
+accidental supply--would render the article of fuel a most expensive
+concern. It is also true that they pretend that the soil, in the department
+of Calvados, contains _coal_; but the experiments which were made some
+years ago at _Littry_, in the arondissement of _Bayeux_, should forbid the
+Caennois to indulge any very sanguine expectations on that score.
+
+In respect to the trade of the town, the two principal branches are _lace_
+and _cap_ making. The former trade is divided with Bayeux; and both places
+together give occupation to about thirty thousand pairs[99] of hands.
+People of all ages may be so employed; and the annual gross receipts have
+been estimated at four millions of francs. In _cap_ making only, at Caen,
+four thousand people have been constantly engaged, and a gross produce of
+two millions of francs has been the result of that branch of trade. A great
+part of this manufacture was consumed at home; but more than one half used
+to be exported to Spain, Portugal, and the colonies belonging to France.
+They pretend to say, however, that this article of commerce is much
+diminished both in profit and reputation: while that of _table linen_ is
+gaining proportionably in both.[100] There were formerly great _tanneries_
+in Caen and its immediate vicinity, but lately that branch of trade has
+suffered extremely. The revolution first gave it a violent check, and the
+ignorance and inattention of the masters to recent improvements, introduced
+by means of chemistry, have helped to hasten its decay. To balance this
+misfortune, there has of late sprung up a very general and judiciously
+directed commercial spirit in the article of _porcelaine_; and if Caen be
+inferior to its neighbouring towns, and especially to Rouen and Lisieux, in
+the articles of cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in that
+which relates to _pottery_ and _china_: no mean articles in the supply of
+domestic wants and luxuries. But it is in matters of higher "pith and
+moment" that Caen may claim a superiority over the towns just noticed.
+There is a better spirit of _education_ abroad; and, for its size, more
+science and more literature will be found in it.
+
+This place has been long famous for the education of Lawyers. There are two
+distinct academies--one for "Science and the Belles-Lettres"--the other for
+agriculture and commerce. The _Lycee_ is a noble building, close to the
+Abbey of St. Stephen: but I wish its facade had been Gothic, to harmonise
+with the Abbey. Indeed, Caen has quite the air of Oxford, from the
+prevalent appearance of _stone_ in its public buildings. The environs of
+the town afford quarries, whence the stone is taken in great blocks, in a
+comparatively soft state--and is thus cut into the several forms required
+with the greatest facility. It is then exposed, and every succeeding day
+appears to add to its white tint and durable quality. I saw some important
+improvements making in the outskirts of the town,[101] in which they were
+finishing shafts and capitals of columns in a manner the most correct and
+gratifying. Still farther from the immediate vicinity of Caen, they find
+stone of a closer grain; and with this they make stair-cases, and pavements
+for the interior of buildings. Indeed the stone stair-cases in this place,
+which are usually circular, and projecting from the building, struck me as
+being equally curious and uncommon. It is asserted that they have different
+kinds of _marble_ in the department of Calvados, which equal that of the
+south of France. At _Basly_ and _Vieux_ white marble is found which has
+been judged worthy of a comparison with Parian; but this is surely a little
+presumptuous. However, it is known that Cardinal Richelieu brought from
+Vieux all the marble with which he built the chapel in the college of the
+Sorbonne.
+
+Upon the whole, as to general appearance, and as to particular society,
+Caen may be preferable to Rouen. The costume and manners of the common
+people are pretty much, if not entirely, the same; except that, as to
+dress, the _cauchoise_ is here rather more simple than at Dieppe and Rouen.
+The upper fille-de-chambre at our hotel displays not only a good correct
+model of national dress, but she is well-looking in her person, and
+well-bred in her manners. Mr. Lewis prevailed upon this good-natured young
+woman to sit for her likeness, and for the sake of her costume. The girl's
+eyes sparkled with more than ordinary joy at the proposal, and even an
+expression of gratitude mingled itself in her manner of compliance. I send
+you the figure and dress of the fille-de-chambre at the _Hotel Royale_ of
+Caen.[102]
+
+[Illustration: FILLE DE CHAMBRE, CAEN.]
+
+Caen is called the depot of the English.[103] In truth there is an amazing
+number of our countrymen here, and from very different causes. One family
+comes to reside from motives of economy; another from those of education; a
+third from those of retirement; and a fourth from pure love of sitting
+down, in a strange place, with the chance of making some pleasant
+connection, or of being engaged in seeking some strange adventure: Good and
+cheap living, and novel society, are doubtless the main attractions. But
+there is desperate ill blood just now between the _Caennois_ (I will not
+make use of the enlarged term _Francois_) and the English; and I will tell
+you the cause. Do you remember the emphatic phrase in my last, "all about
+the duel?" Listen. About three weeks only before our arrival,[104] a duel
+was fought between a young French law-student, and a young Englishman; the
+latter the son of a naval captain. I will mention no names; and so far not
+wound the feelings of the friends of the parties concerned. But this duel,
+my friend, has been "THE DUEL OF DUELS"--on the score of desperation, and
+of a fixed purpose to murder. It is literally without precedent, and I
+trust will never be considered as one. You must know then, that Caen, in
+spite of all the "bouleversemens" of the Revolution, has maintained its
+ancient reputation of possessing a very large seminary, or college for
+students at law. These students amount to nearly 600 in number. Most young
+gentlemen under twenty years of age are at times riotous, or frolicsome, or
+foolish. Generally speaking, however, the students conduct themselves with
+propriety: but there had been a law-suit between a French and English
+suitor, and the Judge pronounced sentence in favour of our countryman. The
+hall was crowded with spectators, and among them was a plentiful number of
+law-students. As they were retiring, one young Frenchman either made
+frightful faces, or contemptible gestures, in a very fixed and insulting
+manner, at a young Englishman--the son of this naval captain. Our
+countryman had no means or power of noticing or resenting the insult, as
+the aggressor was surrounded by his companions. It so happened that it was
+fair time at Caen; and in the evening of the same day, our countryman
+recognised, in the crowd at the fair, the physiognomy of the young man who
+had insulted him in the hall of justice. He approached him, and gave him to
+understand that his rude behaviour should be noticed at a proper time and
+in a proper place: whereupon the Frenchman came up to him, shook him
+violently by the arm, and told him to "fix his distance on the ensuing
+morning." Now the habit of duelling is very common among these
+law-students; but they measure twenty-five paces, fire, and of course ...
+MISS--and then fancy themselves great heroes ... and there is an end of the
+affair. Not so upon the present occasion. "Fifteen paces," if you
+please--said the student, sarcastically, with a conviction of the
+backwardness of his opponent to meet him. "FIVE, rather"--exclaimed the
+provoked Englishman--"I will fight you at FIVE paces:"--and it was agreed
+that they should meet and fight on the morrow, at five paces only asunder.
+
+Each party was under twenty; but I believe the English youth had scarcely
+attained his nineteenth year. What I am about to relate will cause your
+flesh to creep. It was determined by the seconds, as _one_ must necessarily
+_fall_, from firing at so short a distance, that only _one_ pistol should
+be loaded with _ball_: the other having nothing but _powder_:--and that, as
+the Frenchman had challenged, he was to have the choice of the pistols.
+They parted. The seconds prepared the pistols according to agreement, and
+the fatal morning came. The combatants appeared, without one jot of
+abatement of spirit or of cool courage. The pistols lay upon the grass
+before them: one loaded only with powder, and the other with powder and
+ball. The Frenchman advanced: took up a pistol, weighed and balanced it
+most carefully in his hand, and then ... laid it down. He seized the other
+pistol, and cocking it, fixed himself upon the spot from whence he was to
+fire. The English youth was necessarily compelled to take the abandoned
+pistol. Five paces were then measured ... and on the signal being given,
+they both fired ... and the Frenchman fell ... DEAD UPON THE SPOT! The
+Frenchman had in fact _taken up_, but afterwards _laid down_, the very
+pistol which was loaded with the fatal _ball_--on the supposition that it
+was of too light a weight; and even seemed to compliment himself upon his
+supposed sagacity on the occasion. But to proceed. The ball went through
+his heart, as I understood. The second of the deceased on seeing his friend
+a reeking corpse at his feet, became mad and outrageous ... and was for
+fighting the survivor immediately! Upon which, the lad of mettle and
+courage replied, that he would not fight a man without a _second_--"But
+go," said he, (drawing his watch coolly from his fob). I will give you
+twenty minutes to come back again with your second." He waited, with his
+watch in his hand, and by the dead body of his antagonist, for the return
+of the Frenchman; but on the expiration of the time, his own second
+conjured him to consult his safety and depart; for that, from henceforth,
+his life was in jeopardy. He left the ground; obtained his passport, and
+quitted the town instantly ... The dead body of his antagonist was then
+placed on a bier: and his funeral was attended by several hundreds of his
+companions--who, armed with muskets and swords, threatened destruction to
+the civil and military authorities if they presumed to interfere. All this
+has necessarily increased the ill-blood which is admitted to exist between
+the English and French ... but the affair is now beginning to blow
+over.[105]
+
+A truce to such topics. It is now time to furnish you with some details
+relating to your favourite subjects of ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES and
+BIBLIOGRAPHY. The former shall take precedence. First of the _streets_;
+secondly of the _houses_; and thirdly of the _public buildings_;
+ecclesiastical and civil.
+
+To begin with the STREETS. Those of _St. Pierre, Notre Dame_, and _St.
+Jean_ are the principal for bustle and business. The first two form one
+continuous line, leading to the abbey of St. Stephen, and afford in fact a
+very interesting stroll to the observer of men and manners. The shops are
+inferior to those of Rouen, but a great shew of business is discernible in
+them. The street beyond the abbey, and those called _Guilbert_, and _des
+Chanoines_, leading towards the river, are considered among the genteelest.
+Ducarel pronounced the _houses_ of Caen "mean in general, though usually
+built of stone;" but I do not agree with him in this conclusion. The open
+parts about the _Lycee_ and the _Abbey of St. Stephen_, together with the
+_Place Royale_, where the library is situated, form very agreeable spaces
+for the promenade of the ladies and the exercise of the National Guard. The
+_Courts_ are full of architectural curiosities, but mostly of the time of
+Francis I. Of _domestic_ architecture, those houses, with elaborate
+carvings in wood, beneath a pointed roof, are doubtless of the greatest
+antiquity. There are a great number of these; and some very much older than
+others.
+
+A curious old house is to the right hand corner of the street _St. Jean_:
+as you go to the Post Office. But I must inform you that the residence of
+the famous MALHERBE yet exists in the street leading to the Abbey of St.
+Stephen. This house is of the middle of the sixteenth century: and what
+Corneille is to _Rouen_, Malherbe is to _Caen_. "ICI NAQUIT MALHERBE," &c.
+as you will perceive from the annexed view of this house, inscribed upon
+the front of the building. Malherbe has been doomed to receive greater
+honours. His head was first struck, in a series of medals, to perpetuate
+the resemblances of the most eminent literary characters (male and female)
+in France: and it is due to the amiable Pierre-Aime Lair to designate him
+as the FATHER of this medallic project.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In perambulating this town, one cannot but be surprised at the absence of
+_Fountains_--those charming pieces of architecture and of street
+embellishment. In this respect, Rouen has infinitely the advantage of Caen:
+where, instead of the trickling current of translucent water, we observe
+nothing but the partial and perturbed stream issuing from ugly _wells_[106]
+as tasteless in their structure as they are inconvenient in the procuring
+of water. Upon one or two of these wells, I observed the dates of 1560 and
+1588.
+
+The PUBLIC EDIFICES, however, demand a particular and appropriate
+description: and first of those of the ecclesiastical order. Let us begin
+therefore with the ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN; for it is the noblest and most
+interesting on many accounts. It is called by the name of that Saint,
+inasmuch as there stood formerly a chapel, on the same site, dedicated to
+him. The present building was completed and solemnly dedicated by William
+the Conqueror, in the presence of his wife, his two sons Robert and
+William, his favourite Archbishop Lanfranc, John Archbishop of Rouen, and
+Thomas Archbishop of York--towards the year 1080: but I strongly suspect,
+from the present prevailing character of the architecture, that nothing
+more than the west front and the towers upon which the spires rest, remain
+of its ancient structure. The spires (as the Abbe De La Rue conjectures,
+and as I should also have thought) are about two centuries later than the
+towers.
+
+The outsides of the side aisles appear to be of the thirteenth, rather than
+of the end of the eleventh, century. The first exterior view of the west
+front, and of the towers, is extremely interesting; from the grey and clear
+tint, as well as excellent quality, of the stone, which, according to Huet,
+was brought partly from Vaucelle and partly from Allemagne.[107] One of the
+corner abutments of one of the towers has fallen down; and a great portion
+of what remains seems to indicate rapid decay. The whole stands indeed
+greatly in need of reparation. Ducarel, if I remember rightly,[108] has
+made, of this whole front, a sort of elevation, as if it were intended for
+a wooden model to work by: having all the stiffness and precision of an
+erection of forty-eight hours standing only. The central tower is of very
+stunted dimensions, and overwhelmed by a roof in the form of an
+extinguisher. This, in fact, was the consequence of the devastations of the
+Calvinists; who absolutely sapped the foundation of the tower, with the
+hope of overwhelming the whole choir in ruin--but a part only of their
+malignant object was accomplished. The component parts of the eastern
+extremity are strangely and barbarously miscellaneous. However, no good
+commanding exterior view can be obtained from the _place_, or confined
+square, opposite the towers.
+
+But let us return to the west-front; and opening the unfastened green-baize
+covered door, enter softly and silently into the venerable interior--sacred
+even to the feelings of Englishmen! Of this interior, very much is changed
+from its original character. The side aisles retain their flattened arched
+roofs and pillars; and in the nave you observe those rounded pilasters--or
+alto-rilievo-like pillars--running from bottom to top, which are to be seen
+in the abbey of Jumieges. The capitals of these long pillars are
+comparatively of modern date. To the left on entrance, within a side
+chapel, is the burial place of MATILDA, the wife of the Conqueror. The
+tombstone attesting her interment is undoubtedly of the time. Generally
+speaking, the interior is cold, and dull of effect. The side chapels, of
+which not fewer than sixteen encircle the choir, have the discordant
+accompaniments of Grecian balustrades to separate them from the choir and
+nave. There is a good number of _Confessionals_ within them; and at one of
+these I saw, for the first time, _two_ women, kneeling, in the act of
+confession to the _same priest_. "C'est un peu fort," observed our guide in
+an under-voice, and with a humourous expression of countenance! Meanwhile
+Mr. Lewis, who was in an opposite direction in the cathedral, was
+exercising his pencil in the following delineation of a similar subject.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+To the right of the choir (in the sacristy, I think,) is hung the huge
+portrait, in oil, within a black and gilt frame, of which Ducarel has
+published an engraving, on the supposition of its being the portrait of
+WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. But nothing can be more ridiculous than such a
+conclusion. In the first place, the picture itself, which is a palpable
+copy, cannot be older than a century; and, in the second place, were it an
+original performance, it could not be older than the time of Francis
+I:--when, in fact, it purports to have been executed--as a faithful copy of
+the figure of King William, seen by the Cardinals in 1522, who were seized
+with a sacred phrenzy to take a peep at the body as it might exist at that
+time! The costume of the oil-painting is evidently that of the period of
+our Henry VIII.; and to suppose that the body of William--even had it
+remained in so surprisingly perfect a state as Ducarel intimates, after an
+interment of upwards of four hundred years--could have presented such a
+costume, when, from Ducarel's own statement, another whole-length
+representation of the same person is _totally different_--and more
+decidedly of the character of William's time--is really quite a reproach to
+any antiquary who plumes himself upon the possession even of common sense.
+
+In the middle of the choir, and just before the high altar, the body of the
+Conqueror was entombed with great pomp; and a monument erected to his
+memory of the most elaborate and costly description. Nothing now remains
+but a flat black marble slab, with a short inscription, of quite a recent
+date.
+
+In the present state of the abbey,[109] and even in that of Ducarel's time,
+there is, and was, a great dearth of sepulchral monuments. Indeed I know
+not whether you need be detained another minute within the interior; except
+it be, to add your share of admiration to that which has been long and
+justly bestowed on the huge organ[110] at the west end of the nave, which
+is considered to be the finest in all France. But Normandy abounds in
+church decorations of this kind. Leaving therefore this venerable pile,
+endeared to the British antiquary by a thousand pleasing associations of
+ideas, we strike off into an adjoining court yard, and observe the ruins of
+a pretty extensive pile of building, which is called by Ducarel the _Palace
+of the Conqueror_. But in this supposed palace, in its _present_ state,
+most assuredly William I. _never_ resided: for it is clearly not older than
+the thirteenth century: if so ancient. Ducarel saw a great deal more than
+is now to be seen; for, in fact, as I attempted to gain entrance into what
+appeared to be the principal room, I was stopped by an old woman, who
+assured me "qu'il n'y avoit rien que du chauffage." It was true enough: the
+whole of the untenanted interior contained nothing but wood fuel. Returning
+to the principal street, and making a slight digression to the right, you
+descend somewhat abruptly by the side of a church in ruins, called _St.
+Etienne le Vieil_. In Ducarel's time this church is described as entire. On
+the exterior of one of the remaining buttresses is a whole length figure,
+about four English feet in height (as far as I could guess by the eye) of a
+man on horseback--mutilated--trampling upon another man at its feet.
+
+It is no doubt a curious and uncommon ornament. But, would you believe it?
+this figure also, in the opinion of Bourgueville,[111] was intended for
+William the the Conqueror--representing his triumphant entry into Caen! As
+an object of art, even in its present mutilated state, it is highly
+interesting; and I rejoice that Mr. Cotman is likely to preserve the little
+that remains from the hazard of destruction by the fidelity of his own copy
+of it.[112] It is quite clear that, close to the figure, you discover
+traces of style which are unequivocally of the time of Francis I. The
+interior of what remains of this consecrated edifice is converted "horresco
+referens" into a receptacle for ... carriages for hire. Not far from this
+spot stood formerly a magnificent CROSS--demolished during the memorable
+visit of the Calvinists.[113] In the way to the abbey of the Trinity, quite
+at the opposite or eastern extremity of the town, you necessarily pass
+along the _Rue St. Pierre_, and enter into the market-place, affording an
+opening before the most beautiful church in all Normandy. It is the church
+of _St. Pierre de Darnetal_ of which I now speak, and from which the name
+of the street is derived. The tower and spire are of the most admirable
+form and workmanship.[114] The extreme delicacy and picturesque effect of
+the stone tiles, with which the spire is covered, as well as the lightness
+and imposing consequence given to the tower upon which the spire rests, are
+of a character peculiar to itself. The whole has a charming effect. But
+severe criticism compels one to admit that the body of the church is
+defective in fine taste and unity of parts. The style is not only florid
+Gothic, but it is luxuriant, even to rankness, if I may so speak. The parts
+are capriciously put together: filled, and even crammed, with ornaments of
+apparently all ages: concluding with the Grecian mixture introduced in the
+reign of Francis I. The buttresses are, however, generally, lofty and airy.
+In the midst of this complicated and corrupt style of architecture, the
+tower and spire rise like a structure built by preternatural hands; and I
+am not sure that, at this moment, I can recollect any thing of equal beauty
+and effect in the whole range of ecclesiastical edifices in our own
+country. Look at this building, from any part of the town, and you must
+acknowledge that it has the strongest claims to unqualified
+admiration.[115] The body of the church is of very considerable dimensions.
+I entered it on a Sunday morning, about eleven o'clock, and found it quite
+filled with a large congregation, in which the _cauchoise_, as usual,
+appeared like a broad white mass--from one end to the other. The priests
+were in procession. One of the most magnificent organs imaginable was in
+full intonation, with every stop opened; the voices of the congregation
+were lustily exercised; and the offices of religion were carried on in a
+manner which would seem to indicate a warm sense of devotion among the
+worshippers. There is a tolerably good set of modern paintings (the best
+which I have yet seen in the interior of a church) of the _Life of Christ_,
+in the side chapels. The eastern extremity, or the further end of _Our
+Lady's Chapel_, is horribly bedaubed and over-loaded with the most
+tasteless specimens of what is called Gothic art, perhaps ever witnessed!
+The great bell of this church, which has an uncommonly deep and fine tone,
+is for ever
+
+  Swinging slow with solemn roar!
+
+that is to say:--it is tolling from five in the morning till ten at night;
+so incessantly, in one side-chapel or another, are these offices carried on
+within this maternal parish church.[116]
+
+I saw, with momentary astonishment, the leaning tower of a church in the
+_Rue St. Jean_,[117] which is one of the principal streets in the town: and
+which is terminated by the _Place des Cazernes_, flanked by the river Orne.
+In this street I was asked, by a bookseller, two pounds two shillings, for
+a thumbed and cropt copy of the _Elzevir-Heinsius Horace_ of 1629; but with
+which demand I did not of course comply. In fact, they have the most
+extravagant notions of the prices of Elzevirs, both here and at Rouen.
+
+You must now attend me to the most interesting public building, perhaps all
+things considered, which is to be seen at Caen. I mean, the _Abbey of the
+Holy Trinity_, or L'ABBAYE AUX DAMES.[118] This abbey was founded by the
+wife of the Conqueror, about the same time that William erected that of St.
+Stephen. Ducarel's description of it, which I have just seen in a copy of
+the _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, in a bookseller's shop, is sufficiently
+meagre. His plates are also sufficiently miserable: but things are
+strangely altered since his time. The nave of the church is occupied by a
+manufactory for making cordage, or twine; and upwards of a hundred lads are
+now busied in their _flaxen_ occupations, where formerly the nun knelt
+before the cross, or was occupied in auricular confession. The entrance at
+the western extremity is entirely stopped up: but the exterior gives
+manifest proof of an antiquity equal to that of the Abbey of St. Stephen.
+The upper part of the towers are palpably of the fifteenth, or rather of
+the early part of the sixteenth century. I had no opportunity of judging of
+the neat pavement of the floor of the nave, in white and black marble, as
+noticed by Ducarel, on account of the occupation of this part of the
+building by the manufacturing children; but I saw some very ancient
+tomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which had been removed
+from the nave or side aisles, and were placed against the sides of the
+north transept. The nave is entirely _walled up_ from the transepts, but
+the choir is fortunately preserved; and a more perfect and interesting
+specimen of its kind, of the same antiquity, is perhaps no where to be seen
+in Normandy. All the monuments as well as the altars, described by Ducarel,
+are now taken away. Having ascended a stone staircase, we got into the
+upper part of the choir, above the first row of pillars--and walked along
+the wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say: but a more adventurous
+spirit of curiosity had nearly proved fatal to me: for, on quitting
+daylight, we pursued a winding stone staircase, in our way to the central
+tower--to enjoy from hence a view of the town. I almost tremble as I relate
+it. There had been put up a sort of temporary wooden staircase, leading
+absolutely to ... nothing: or, rather, to a dark void space. I happened to
+be foremost in ascending, yet groping in the dark--with the guide luckily
+close behind me. Having reached the topmost step, I was raising my foot to
+a supposed higher or succeeding step ... but there was _none_. A depth of
+eighteen feet at least was below me. The guide caught my coat, as I was
+about to lose my balance--and roared out "Arretez--tenez!" The least
+balance or inclination, one way or the other, is sufficient, upon these
+critical occasions: when luckily, from his catching my coat, and pulling me
+in consequence slightly backwards, my fall ... and my LIFE ... were equally
+saved! I have reason from henceforth to remember the ABBAYE AUX DAMES at
+Caen.
+
+I gained the top of the central tower, which is not of equal altitude with
+those of the western extremity, and from thence surveyed the town, as well
+as the drizzling rain would permit. I saw enough however to convince me
+that the site of this abbey is fine and commanding. Indeed it stands nearly
+upon the highest ground in the town. Ducarel had not the glorious ambition
+to mount to the top of the tower; nor did he even possess that most
+commendable of all species of architectural curiosity, a wish to visit the
+CRYPT. Thus, in either extremity--I evinced a more laudable spirit of
+enterprise than did my old-fashioned predecessor. Accordingly, from the
+summit, you must accompany me to the lowest depth of the building. I
+descended by the same (somewhat intricate) route, and I took especial care
+to avoid all "temporary wooden stair-cases." The crypt, beneath the choir,
+is perhaps of yet greater interest and beauty than the choir itself. Within
+an old, very old, stone coffin--at the further circular end--are the
+pulverized remains of one of the earliest Abbesses.[119] I gazed around
+with mixed sensations of veneration and awe, and threw myself back into
+centuries past, fancying that the shrouded figure of MATILDA herself glided
+by, with a look as if to approve of my antiquarian enthusiasm! Having
+gratified my curiosity by a careful survey of this subterraneous abode, I
+revisited the regions of day-light, and made towards the large building,
+now a manufactory, which in Ducarel's time had been a nunnery. The
+revolution has swept away every human being in the character of a nun; but
+the director of the manufactory shewed me, with great civility, some relics
+of old crosses, rings, veils, lachrymatories, &c. which had been taken from
+the crypt I had recently visited. These relics savoured of considerable
+antiquity. Tom Hearne would have set about proving that they _must_ have
+belonged to Matilda herself; but I will have neither the presumption nor
+the merit of attempting this proof. They seemed indeed to have undergone
+half a dozen decompositions. Upon the whole, if our Antiquarian Society,
+after having exhausted the cathedrals of their own country, should ever
+think of perpetuating the principal ecclesiastical edifices of Normandy, by
+means of the _Art of Engraving_, let them begin their labours with the
+ABBAYE AUX DAMES at Caen.
+
+The foregoing, my dear friend, are the principal ecclesiastical buildings
+in this place. There are other public edifices, but comparatively of a
+modern date. And yet I should be guilty of a gross omission were I to
+neglect giving you an account, however superficial, of the remains of an
+apparently CASTELLATED BUILDING, a little beyond the Abbaye aux Dames--or
+rather to the right, upon elevated ground, as you enter the town by the way
+we came. As far as I can discover, this appears to have escaped
+Ducarel.[120] It is doubtless a very curious relic. Running along the upper
+part of the walls, there is a series of basso-relievo heads,
+medallion-wise, cut in stone, evidently intended for portraits. They are
+assuredly not older than the reign of Francis I. and may be even as late as
+that of Henry II. Among these rude medallions, is a female head, with a
+ferocious-looking man on each side of it, either saluting the woman, or
+whispering in her ear. But the most striking objects are the stone figures
+of two men, upon a circular tower, of which one is in the act of shooting
+an arrow, and the other as if holding a drawn sword. I got admittance
+within the building; and ascending the tower, found that these were only
+the _trunks_ of figures,--and removable at pleasure. I could only stroke
+their beards and shake their bodies a little, which was of course done with
+impunity. Whether the present be the _original_ place of their destination
+may be very doubtful. The Abbe de la Rue, with whom I discoursed upon the
+subject yesterday morning, is of opinion that these figures are of the time
+of Louis XI.: which makes them a little more ancient than the other
+ornaments of the building. As to the interior, I could gather nothing with
+certainty of the original character of the place from the present remains.
+The earth is piled up, here and there, in artificial mounds covered with
+grass: and an orchard, and rich pasture land (where I saw several women
+milking cows) form the whole of the interior scenery. However the
+_Caennois_ are rather proud of this building.
+
+Leaving you to your own conclusions respecting the date of its erection,
+and "putting the colophon" to this disquisition respecting the principal
+public buildings at Caen, it is high time to assure you how faithfully I am
+always yours.
+
+
+[96] ["Besides her numerous public schools, Caen possesses two Schools of
+    Art--one for design, the other for Architecture and Ornament--where
+    the Students are _gratuitously_ instructed." LICQUET.]
+
+[97] It is called _Vin Huet_--and is the last wine which a traveller
+    will be disposed to ask for. When Henry IV. passed through the town,
+    he could not conceive why such excellent grapes should produce such
+    execrable wine. I owe this intelligence to Mons. LICQUET.
+
+[98] Somewhere about 150 English acres.
+
+[99] [I had before said _twenty_--but Mons. Licquet observes, I might
+    have said--thirty thousand pairs of hands.]
+
+[100] Caen was celebrated for its table linen three centuries ago. Consult
+    BOURGUEVILLE: _Antiquitez de Caen_; 1588, 8vo. p. 26.
+
+[101] The fauxbourgs of Caen, in the present day, wear a melancholy
+    contrast to what they appear to have done in the middle of the XVIth
+    century. Consult the pleasantly penned description of these fauxbourgs
+    by the first topographer of the place, BOURGUEVILLE: in his
+    _Antiquitez de Caen_, pp. 5, 6, 26.
+
+    It may be worth subjoining, from the same interesting authority, that
+    long after the time even of the publication just referred to, the town
+    of Caen was surrounded by lofty and thick stone walls--upon the tops
+    of which three men could walk a-breast: and from thence the
+    inhabitants could discern, across those large and beautiful gardens,
+    "the vessels sailing in the river Orne, and unloading their cargoes by
+    the sides of walls." It appears indeed to have been a sort of lounge,
+    or fashionable promenade--by means of various ladders for the purposes
+    of ascent and descent.
+
+    Among the old prints and bird's-eye views of Caen, which I saw in the
+    collection of DE BOZE at the Royal Library at Paris, there is one
+    accompanied by three pages of printed description, which begins with
+    the lines of Guillaume Breton "Villa potens, opulenta, situ spatiosa
+    decora." See First Edition, vol. i. p. 274. Evelyn, in 1644, thus
+    describes the town of Caen. "The whole town is handsomely built of
+    that excellent stone so well knowne by that name in England. I was
+    lead to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at
+    the entrance, at an exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary worke,
+    with well understood architecture, consisting of pillars, niches,
+    freezes, and other ornaments, with greate curiosity, &c. _Life and
+    Writings of J. Evelyn_, 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 52.
+
+[102] See the OPPOSITE PLATE.
+
+[103] It was a similar depot in Ducarel's time.
+
+[104] The story was in fact told us the very first night of our arrival, by
+    M. Lagouelle, the master of the hotel royale. He went through it with
+    a method, emphasis, and energy, rendered the more striking from the
+    obesity of his figure and the vulgarity of his countenance. But he
+    frankly allowed that "Monsieur l'Anglois se conduisait bien."
+
+[105] [The affair is now scarcely remembered; and the successful champion
+    died a natural death within about three years afterwards. Mons.
+    Licquet slenderly doubts portions of this tragical tale: but I have
+    good reason to believe that it is not an exaggerated one. As to what
+    occurred _after_ the death of one of the combatants, I am
+    unwilling to revive unpleasant sensations by its recapitulation.]
+
+[106] Bourgueville seems bitterly to lament the substitution of wells for
+    fountains. He proposes a plan, quite feasible in his own estimation,
+    whereby this desirable object might be effected: and then retorts upon
+    his townsmen by reminding them of the commodious fountains at
+    _Lisieux, Falaise and Vire_--of which the inhabitants "n'ont rien
+    espargne pour auoir ceste decoration et commodite en leurs
+    villes."--spiritedly adding--"si j'estois encore en auctorite, j'y
+    ferois mon pouuoir, et ie y offre de mes biens." p. 17.
+
+[107] [I am most prompt to plead guilty to a species of _Hippopotamos_
+    error, in having here translated the word _Allemagne_ into
+    GERMANY! Now, although this translation, per se, be correct, yet, as
+    applicable to the text, it is most incorrect--as the _Allemagne_
+    in question happens to be a _Parish in the neighbourhood of
+    Caen_! My translator, in turn, treats me somewhat tenderly when he
+    designates this as "une meprise fort singuliere." vol. ii. p. 25.]
+
+[108] The plate of Ducarel, here alluded to, forms the fourth plate in his
+    work; affording, from the starch manner in which it is engraved, an
+    idea of one of the most disproportioned, ugly buildings imaginable.
+    Mr. Cotman has favoured us with a good bold etching of the West Front,
+    and of the elevation of compartments of the Nave; The former is at
+    once faithful and magnificent; but the lower part wants characteristic
+    markings.
+
+[109] It should be noticed that, "besides the immense benefactions which
+    William in his life time conferred upon this abbey, he, on his death,
+    presented thereto the _crown_ which he used to wear at all high
+    festivals, together with his _sceptre and rod_: a cup set with
+    precious stones; his candlesticks of gold, and all his regalia: as
+    also the ivory bugle-horn which usually hung at his back."
+    _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 51. note. The story of the breaking
+    open of the coffin by the Calvinists, and finding the Conqueror's
+    remains, is told by Bourgueville--who was an _eye witness_ of these
+    depredations, and who tried to "soften the obdurate hearts" of the
+    pillagers, but in vain. This contemporaneous historian observes that,
+    in his time "the abbey was filled with beautiful and curious
+    stained-glass windows and harmonious organs, which were all broken and
+    destroyed--and that the seats, chairs, &c. and all other wooden
+    materials were consumed by fire," p.171. Huet observes that a "Dom
+    Jean de Baillehache and Dom Matthieu de la Dangie," religious of St.
+    Stephen's, took care of the monument of the Conqueror in the year
+    1642, and replaced it in the state in which it appeared in Huet's
+    time." _Origines de Caen_; p.248. The revolution was still more
+    terrible than the Calvinistic fury;--for no traces of the monument are
+    now to be seen.
+
+[110] The west window is almost totally obscured by a most gigantic organ
+    built close to it, and allowed to be the finest in all France. This
+    organ is so big, as to require eleven large bellows, &c. _Ducarel_,
+    p.57. He then goes on to observe, that "amongst the plate preserved in
+    the treasury of this church, is a curious SILVER SALVER, about ten
+    inches in diameter, gilt, and inlaid with antique medals. Tradition
+    assures us, that it was on this salver, that king William the
+    conqueror placed the foundation charter of the abbey when he presented
+    it, at the high altar, on the dedication of the church. The edges of
+    this salver, which stands on a foot stalk of the same metal, are a
+    little turned up, and carved. In the centre is inlaid a Greek medal;
+    on the obverse whereof is this legend, [Greek: Ausander Aukonos] but
+    it being fixed in its socket, the reverse is not visible. The other
+    medals, forty in number, are set round the rim, in holes punched quite
+    through; so that the edges of the holes serve as frames for the
+    medals. These medals are Roman, and in the highest preservation."
+
+[111] Yet Bourgueville's description of the group, as it appeared in his
+    time, trips up the heels of his own conjecture. He says that there
+    were, besides the two figures above mentioned, "vn autre homme et
+    femme a genoux, comme s'ils demandoient raison de la mort de leur
+    enfant, qui est vne antiquite de grand remarque dont je ne puis donner
+    autre certitude de l'histoire." _Antiquitez de Caen_; p.39. Now,
+    it is this additional portion of the group (at present no longer in
+    existence) which should seem to confirm the conjecture of my friend
+    Mr. Douce--that it is a representation of the received story, in the
+    middle ages, of the Emperor Trajan being met by a widow who demanded
+    justice against the murderer of her son. The Emperor, who had just
+    mounted his horse to set out upon some hostile expedition, replied,
+    that "he would listen to her on his return." The woman said, "What, if
+    you never return?" "My successor will satisfy you"--he replied--"But
+    how will that benefit you,"--resumed the widow. The Emperor then
+    descended from his horse, and enquiring into the woman's case, caused
+    justice to be done to her. Some of the stories say that the murderer
+    was the Emperor's own son.
+
+[112] [Since the publication of the first edition of this work, the figure
+    in question has appeared from the pencil and burin of Mr. Cotman; of
+    which the only fault, as it strikes me, is, that the surface is too
+    rough--or the effect too sketchy.]
+
+[113] Bourgueville has minutely described it in his _Antiquities_; and
+    his description is copied in the preceding edition of this work.
+
+[114] Bourgueville is extremely particular and even eloquent in his account
+    of the tower, &c. He says that he had "seen towers at Paris, Rouen,
+    Toulouse, Avignon, Narbonne, Montpelier, Lyons, Amiens, Chartres,
+    Angiers, Bayeux, Constances, (qu. Coutances?) and those of St. Stephen
+    at Caen, and others, in divers parts of France, which are built in a
+    pyramidal form--but THIS TOWER OT ST. PETER exceeded all the others,
+    as well in its height, as in its curious form of construction."
+    _Antiq. de Caen_; p.36. He regrets, however, that the _name of
+    the architect_ has not descended to us. [It is right to correct an
+    error, in the preceding edition, which has been committed on the
+    authority of Ducarel. That Antiquary supposed the tower and spire to
+    have been built by the generosity of one NICHOLAS, an ENGLISHMAN."
+    Mons. Licquet has, I think, reclaimed the true author of such
+    munificence, as his _own_ countryman.--NICOLAS LANGLOIS:--whose
+    name thus occurs in his epitaph, preserved by Bourgueville.
+
+      _Le Vendredi, devant tout droict_
+      _La Saint Cler que le temps n'est froit,_
+      _Trespassa_ NICOLLE L'ANGLOIS,
+      _L'an Mil Trois Cens et Dix Sept._]
+        &c. &c.
+
+    Reverting, to old BOURGUEVILLE, I cannot take leave of him without
+    expressing my hearty thanks for the amusement and information which
+    his unostentatious octavo volume--entitled _Les Recherches et
+    Antiquitez de la Ville et Universite de Caen, &c_. (a Caen, 1588,
+    8vo.) has afforded me.
+
+    The author, who tells us he was born in 1504, lived through the most
+    critical and not unperilous period of the times in which he wrote. His
+    plan is perfectly artless, and his style as completely simple. Nor
+    does his fidelity appear impeachable. Such ancient volumes of
+    topography are invaluable--as preserving the memory of things and of
+    objects, which, but for such record, had perished without the hope or
+    chance of recovery.
+
+[115] [Ten years have elapsed since this sentence was written, and the
+    experience gained in those years only confirms the truth (according to
+    the conception of the author) of the above assertion. Such a tower and
+    spire, if found in England, must be looked for in Salisbury Cathedral;
+    but though this latter be much loftier, it is stiff, cold, and formal,
+    comparatively with that of which the text makes mention.]
+
+[116] [For six months in the year--that is to say, from Lady Day till
+    Michaelmas Day--this great Bell tolls, at a quarter before ten, as a
+    curfew.]
+
+[117] A plate of it may be found in the publication of Mr. Dawson Turner,
+    and of Mr. Cotman.
+
+[118] Of this building Mr. Cotman has published the West front, east end,
+    exterior and interior; great arches under the tower; crypt; east side
+    of south transept; elevation of the North side of the choir: elevation
+    of the window; South side exterior; view down the nave, N.W.
+    direction.
+
+[119] Bourgueville describes the havoc which took place within this abbey
+    at the memorable visit of the Calvinists in 1562. From plundering the
+    church of St. Stephen (as before described p. 172,) they proceeded to
+    commit similar ravages here:--"sans auoir respect ni reuerence a la
+    Dame Abbesse, ni a la religion et douceur feminine des Dames
+    Religieuses."--"plusieurs des officiers de la maison s'y trouucrent,
+    vsans de gracieuses persuasions, pour penser flechir le coeur de ces
+    plus que brutaux;" p. 174.
+
+[120] Unless it be what he calls "the FORT OF THE HOLY TRINITY of Caen; in
+    which was constantly kept a garrison, commanded by a captain, whose
+    annual pay was 100 single crowns. This was demolished by Charles, king
+    of Navarre, in the year 1360, during the war which he carried on
+    against Charles the Dauphin, afterwards Charles V., &c."
+    _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 67. This castle, or the building once
+    flanked by the walls above described, was twice taken by the English;
+    once in 1346, when they made an immense booty, and loaded their ships
+    with the gold and silver vessels found therein; and the second time in
+    1417, when they established themselves as masters of the place for 33
+    years. _Annuaire du Calvados_; 1803-4; p. 63.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+LITERARY SOCIETY. ABBE DE LA RUE. MESSRS. PIERRE-AIME LAIR AND LAMOUROUX.
+MEDAL OF MALHERBE. BOOKSELLERS. MEMOIR OF THE LATE M. MOYSANT, PUBLIC
+LIBRARIAN. COURTS OF JUSTICE.
+
+
+From the dead let me conduct you to the living. In other words, prepare to
+receive some account of _Society_,--and of things appertaining to the
+formation of the intellectual character. Caen can boast of a public
+Literary Society, and of the publication of its memoirs.[121] But these
+"memoirs" consist at present of only six volumes, and are in our own
+country extremely rare.
+
+[Illustration: ABBE DE LA RUE AEtat. LXXIV.]
+
+Among the men whose moral character and literary reputation throw a sort of
+lustre upon Caen, there is no one perhaps that stands upon _quite_ so lofty
+an eminence as the ABBE DE LA RUE; at this time occupied in publishing a
+_History of Caen_.[122] As an archaeologist, he has no superior among his
+countrymen; while his essays upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_ and the
+_Anglo-Norman Poets_, published in our _Archaeologia_, prove that there are
+few, even among ourselves, who could have treated those interesting
+subjects with more dexterity or better success. The Abbe is, in short, the
+great archaeological oracle of Normandy. He was pleased to pay me a Visit
+at Lagouelle's. He is fast advancing towards his seventieth year. His
+figure is rather stout, and above the mean height: his complexion is
+healthful, his eye brilliant, and a plentiful quantity of waving white hair
+adds much to the expression of his countenance.[123] He enquired kindly
+after our mutual friend Mr. Douce; of whose talents and character he spoke
+in a manner which did equal honour to both. But he was inexorable, as
+to--_not_ dining with me; observing that his Order was forbidden to dine in
+taverns. He gave me a list of places which I ought to visit in my further
+progress through Normandy, and took leave of me more abruptly than I could
+have wished. He rarely visits Caen, although a great portion of his library
+is kept there: his abode being chiefly in the country, at the residence of
+a nobleman to whose son he was tutor. It is delightful to see a man, of his
+venerable aspect and widely extended reputation, enjoying, in the evening
+of life, (after braving such a tempest, in the noon-day of it, as that of
+the Revolution) the calm, unimpaired possession of his faculties, and the
+respect of the virtuous and the wise.
+
+The study of _Natural History_ obtains pretty generally at Caen; indeed
+they have an Academy in which this branch of learning is expressly
+taught--and of which MONSIEUR LAMOUROUX[124] is at once the chief ornament
+and instructor. This gentleman (to whom our friend Mr. Dawson Turner
+furnished me with a letter of introduction) has the most unaffected
+manners, and a countenance particularly open and winning. He is "a very
+dragon" in his pursuit. On my second call, I found him busied in unpacking
+some baskets of seaweed, yet reeking with the briny moisture; and which he
+handled and separated and classed with equal eagerness and facility. The
+library of M. Lamouroux is quite a workman-like library: filled with
+sensible, solid, and instructive books--and if he had only accepted a
+repeated and strongly-pressed invitation to dine with me at Lagouelle's, to
+meet his learned brother PIERRE-AIME LAIR, nothing would have been wanting
+to the completion of his character!
+
+You have just heard the name of Pierre-Aime Lair. Prepare to receive a
+sketch of the character to which that name appertains. This gentleman is
+not only the life and soul of the society--but of the very town--in which
+he moves. I walked with him, arm in arm, more than once, through very many
+streets, passages, and courts, which were distinguished for any relic of
+architectural antiquity. He was recognised and saluted by nearly one person
+out of three, in our progress. "Je vous salue"--"vous voila avec Monsieur
+l'Anglois"--"bon jour,"--"comment ca va-t-il:"--The activity of Pierre-Aime
+Lair is only equalled by his goodness of heart and friendliness of
+disposition. He is all kindness. Call when you will, and ask for what you
+please, the object solicited is sure to be granted. He never seems to rise
+(and he is a very early riser) with spleen, ill-humour, or untoward
+propensities. With him, the sun seems always to shine, and the lark to tune
+her carol. And this cheerfulness of feeling is carried by him into every
+abode however gloomy, and every society however dull.
+
+But more substantial praise belongs to this amiable man. Not only is
+Pierre-Aime Lair a lover and collector of tangible antiquities--such as
+glazed tiles, broken busts, old pictures, and fractured capitals--all seen
+in "long array", up the windings of his staircase--but he is a critic, and
+a patron of the _literary_ antiquities of his country. Caen (as I told you
+in my last despatch) is the birth-place of MALHERBE; and, in the character
+now under discussion, it has found a perpetuator of the name and merits of
+the father of French verse. In the year 1806 our worthy antiquary put forth
+a project for a general subscription "for a medal in honour of
+_Malherbe_,"[125] which project was in due time rewarded by the names of
+_fifteen hundred_ efficient subscribers, at five francs a piece. The
+proposal was doubtless flattering to the literary pride of the French; and
+luckily the execution of it surpassed the expectations of the subscribers.
+The head is undoubtedly of the most perfect execution. Not only, however,
+did this head of Malherbe succeed--but a feeling was expressed that it
+might be followed up by a _Series of Heads_ of the most illustrious, of
+both sexes, in literature and the fine arts. The very hint was enough for
+Lair: though I am not sure whether he be not the father of the _latter_
+design also. Accordingly, there has appeared, periodically, a set of heads
+of this description, in bronze or other metal, as the purchaser
+pleases--which has reflected infinite credit not only on the name of the
+projector of this scheme, but on the present state of the fine arts in
+France.
+
+Yet another word about Pierre-Aime Lair. He is not so inexorable as M.
+Lamouroux: for he _has_ dined with me, and quaffed the burgundy and
+champagne of Lagouelle, commander in chief of this house. Better wines
+cannot be quaffed; and Malherbe and the Duke of Wellington formed the
+alternate subjects of discourse and praise. In return, I have dined with
+our guest. He had prepared an abundant dinner, and a very select society:
+but although there was no wand, as in the case of Sancho Panza, to charm
+away the dishes, &c. or to interdict the tasting of them, yet it was
+scarcely possible to partake of one in four... so unmercifully were they
+steeped and buried in _butter!_ The principal topic of discourse, were the
+merits of the poets of the respective countries of France and England, from
+which I have reason to think that Pope, Thomson, and Young, are among the
+greatest favourites with the French. The white brandy of Pierre-Aime Lair,
+introduced after dinner, is hardly to be described for its strength and
+pungency. "Vous n'avez rien comme ca chez vous?" "Je le crois bien, (I
+replied) c'est la liquefaction meme du feu." We broke up before eight; each
+retiring to his respective avocations--but did not dine till five. I
+borrowed, however, "an hour or twain" of the evening, after the departure
+of the company, to enjoy the more particular conversation of our host; and
+the more I saw and conversed with him; the greater was my gratification. At
+parting, he loaded me with a pile of pamphlets, of all sizes, of his own
+publication; and I ventured to predict to him that he would terminate his
+multifarious labours by settling into consolidated BIBLIOMANIACISM. "On
+peut faire pire!"--was his reply--on shaking hands with me, and telling me
+he should certainly meet me again at _Bayeux_, in my progress through
+Normandy.[126] My acquaintance with this amiable man seemed to be my
+security from insults in the streets.
+
+Education here commences early, and with incitements as alluring as at
+Rouen. POISSON in the _Rue Froide_ is the principal, and indeed a very
+excellent, printer; but BONNESERRE, in the same street, has put forth a
+vastly pretty manual of infantine devotion, in a brochure of eight pages,
+of which I send you the first, and which you may compare with the specimen
+transmitted in a former letter.[127]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Chapolin, in the _Rue-Froide-Rue,_ has recently published a most curious
+little manual, in the cursive secretary gothic, entitled "_La Civilite
+honnete pour les enfans qui commence par la maniere d'apprendre et bien
+lire, prononcer et ecrire_." I call it "curious," because the very first
+initial letter of the text, representing C, introduces us to the
+_bizarrerie_ of the early part of the XVIth century in treatises of a
+similar character. Take this first letter, with a specimen also of those to
+which it appertains.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This work is full of the old fashioned (and not a bit the worse on that
+account) precepts of the same period; such as we see in the various
+versions of the "De Moribus Juvenum," of which the "_Contenance de la
+Table,"_ in the French language, is probably the most popular. It is
+executed throughout in the same small and smudged gothic character; and, as
+I conceive; can have few purchasers. The printers of Caen must not be
+dismissed without respectful mention of the typographical talents of LE
+ROY; who ranks after Poisson. Let both these be considered as the Bulmer
+and Bensley of the place.
+
+But among these venders of infantine literature, or of cheap popular
+pieces, there is no man who "drives such a trade" as PICARD-GUERIN,
+_Imprimeur en taille-douce et Fabricant d'Images_," who lives in the _Rue
+des Teinturiers,_ no.175. I paid him more than one visit; as, from, his
+"fabrication," issue the thousands and tens of thousands of broadsides,
+chap-books, &c. &c. which inundate Lower Normandy. You give from _one_ to
+_three_ sous, according as the subject be simple or compound, upon wood or
+upon copper:--Saints, martyrs, and scriptural subjects; or heroes,
+chieftains, and monarchs, including the Duke of Wellington and Louis XVIII.
+le Desire--are among the taille-douces specified in the imprints. Madame
+did me the honour of shewing me some of her choicest treasures, as her
+husband was from home. Up stairs was a parcel of mirthful boys and girls,
+with painting brushes in their hands, and saucers of various colours before
+them. Upon enquiry, I found that they received four sous per dozen, for
+colouring; but I will not take upon me to say that they were over or under
+paid--of so _equivocal_ a character were their performances. Only I hoped
+to be excused if I preferred the plain to the coloured. In a foreign
+country, our notice is attracted towards things perhaps the most mean and
+minute. With this feeling, I examined carefully what was put before me, and
+made a selection sufficient to shew that it was the produce of French soil.
+Among the serious subjects were _two_ to which I paid particular attention.
+The one was a metrical cantique of the _Prodigal Son,_ with six wood cuts
+above the text, exhibiting the leading points of the Gospel-narrative. I
+will cut out and send you the _second_ of these six: in which you will
+clearly perceive the military turn which seems to prevail throughout France
+in things the most minute. The Prodigal is about to mount his horse and
+leave his father's house, in the cloke and cock'd hat of a French officer.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The _fourth_ of these cuts is droll enough. It is entitled, "_L'Enfant
+Prodigue est chasse par ses maitresses."_ The expulsion consists in the
+women driving him out of doors with besoms and hair-brooms. It is very
+probable, however, that all this character of absurdity attaches to some of
+our own representations of the same subject; if, instead of examining (as
+in Pope's time)
+
+  ... the walls of Bedlam and Soho,
+
+we take a survey of the graphic broadsides which dangle from strings upon
+the wall at Hyde Park Corner.
+
+Another subject of a serious character, which I am about to describe to
+you, can rarely, in all probability, be the production of a London artist.
+It is called "_Notre-Dame de la bonne Delivrande_," and is necessarily
+confined to the religion of the country. You have here, first of all, a
+reduced form of the original: probably about one-third--and it is the more
+appropriate, as it will serve to give you a very correct notion of the
+dressing out of the figures of the VIRGIN and CHILD which are meant to
+grace the altars of the chapels of the Virgin in most of the churches in
+Normandy. Is it possible that one spark of devotion can be kindled by the
+contemplation of an object so grotesque and so absurd in the House of God?
+
+[Illustration: SAINTE MARIE, MERE DE DIEU, priez pour nous]
+
+To describe all the trumpery which is immediately around it, in the
+original, would be a waste of time; but below are two good figures to the
+right, and two wretched ones to the left. Beneath the whole, is the
+following _accredited_ consoling piece of intelligence:
+
+    L'AN 830, _des Barbares descendent dans les Gaules, massacrent les
+    Fideles, profanent et brulent les Eglises. Raoul, Duc de Normandie, se
+    joint a eux; l'image de la Ste. Vierge demeure ensevelie sous les
+    ruines de l'ancienne chapelle jusqu'au regne de Henri I. l'an 1331.
+    Beaudouin, Baron de Douvres, averti par son berger qu'un mouton de son
+    troupeau fouillait toujours dans le meme endroit, fit ouvrir la terre,
+    et trouva ce tresor cache depuis tant d'annees. Il fit porter
+    processionnellement cette sainte image dans l'Eglise de Douvres: mais
+    Dieu permit qu'elle fut transportee par un Ange dans l'endroit de la
+    chapelle ou elle est maintenant reveree. C'est dans cette chapelle
+    que, par l'intercession de Marie, les pecheurs recoivent leur
+    conversion, les affliges leur consolation, les infirmes la sante, les
+    captifs leur delivrance, que ceux qui sont en mer echappent aux
+    tempetes et au naufrage, et que des miracles s'operent journellement
+    sur les pieux Fideles_.
+
+A word now for BIBLIOPOLISTS--including _Bouquinistes_, or venders of "old
+and second-hand books." The very morning following my arrival in Caen, I
+walked to the abbey of St. Stephen, before breakfast, and in the way
+thither stopped at a book stall, to the right,--and purchased some black
+letter folios: among which the French version of _Caesar's Commentaries,_
+printed by Verard, in 1488, was the most desirable acquisition. It is
+reserved for Lord Spencer's library;[128] at a price which, freight and
+duty included, cannot reach the sum of twelve shillings of our money. Of
+venders of second hand and old books, the elder and younger MANOURY take a
+decisive lead. The former lives in the _Rue Froide_; the latter in the _Rue
+Notre Dame._ The father boasts of having upwards of thirty thousand
+volumes, but I much doubt whether his stock amount to one half of that
+number. He unhesitatingly asked me two _louis d'or_ for a copy of the
+_Vaudevires_ of OLIVIER BASSELIN, which is a modern, but privately printed,
+volume; and of which I hope to give you some amusing particulars by and by.
+He also told me that he had formerly sold a paper copy of _Fust's Bible of
+1462,_ with many of the illuminated initials cut out, to the library of the
+Arsenal, at Paris, for 100 louis d'or. I only know that, if I had been
+librarian, he should not have had one half the money.
+
+Now for Manoury the younger. Old and young are comparative terms: for be it
+known that the son is "age de soixante ans." Over his door you read an
+ancient inscription, thus:
+
+    "_Battu, perce, lie, Je veux changer de main_."
+
+This implies either (like Aladdin's old lamps for new) that he wishes to
+give new books in exchange for old ones, or that he can smarten up old ones
+by binding, or otherwise, and give them a renovated appearance. But the
+solution is immaterial: the inscription being as above. The interior of the
+younger Manoury's book repository almost appalled me. His front shop, and a
+corridor communicating with the back part of the house, are rank with
+moisture; and his books are consequently rotting apace. Upon my making as
+pitiable a statement as I was able of this melancholy state of things--and
+pleading with all my energies against the inevitable destruction which
+threatened the dear books--the obdurate bibliopolist displayed not one
+scintillation of sympathy. He was absolutely indifferent to the whole
+concern. In the back parlour, almost impervious to day-light, his daughter,
+and a stout and handsome bourgeoise, with rather an unusually elevated
+cauchoise, were regaling themselves with soup and herbs at dinner. I
+hurried through, in my way to the upper regions, with apologies for the
+intrusion; but was told that none were necessary--that I might go where,
+and stay as long, as I pleased--and that any explanation would be given to
+my interrogatories in the way of business. I expressed my obligations for
+such civility; and gaining an upper room, by the help of a chair, made a
+survey of its contents. What piles of interminable rubbish! I selected, as
+the only rational or desirable volume--half rotted with moisture--_Belon's
+Marine Fishes_, 1551, 4to; and placing six francs (the price demanded) upon
+the table, hurried back, through this sable and dismal territory, with a
+sort of precipitancy amounting to horrour. What struck me, as productive of
+a very extraordinary effect--was the cheerfulness and _gaiete de coeur_ of
+these females, in the midst of this region of darkness and desolation.
+Manoury told me that the Revolution had deprived him of the opportunity of
+having the finest bookselling stock in France! His own carelessness and
+utter apathy are likely to prove yet more destructive enemies.
+
+But let us touch a more "spirit-stirring" chord in the book theme. Let us
+leave the _Bouquiniste_ for the PUBLIC LIBRARY: and I invite you most
+earnestly to accompany me thither, and to hear matters of especial import.
+This library occupies the upper part of a fine large stone building,
+devoted to the public offices of government. The plan of the library is
+exceedingly striking; in the shape of a cross. It measures one hundred and
+thirty-four, by eighty, French feet; and is supposed, apparently with
+justice, to contain 20,000 volumes. It is proportionably wide and lofty. M.
+HEBERT is the present chief librarian, having succeeded the late M.
+Moysant, his uncle. Among the more eminent benefactors and Bibliomaniacs,
+attached to this library, the name of FRANCOIS MARTIN is singularly
+conspicuous. He was, from all accounts, and especially from the information
+of M. Hebert, one of the most raving of book-madmen: but he displayed,
+withal, a spirit of kindness and liberality towards his favourite
+establishment at Caen, which could not be easily shaken or subdued. He was
+also a man of letters, and evinced that most commendable of all literary
+propensities--a love of the LITERATURE OF HIS COUNTRY. He amassed a very
+large collection of books, which was cruelly pillaged during the
+Revolution; but the public library became possessed of a great number of
+them. In those volumes, formerly belonging to him, which are now seen, is
+the following printed inscription: "_Franciscus Martin, Doctor Theologus
+Parisiensis, comparavit. Oretur pro co_." He was head of the convent of
+Cordeliers, and Prefect of the Province: but his mode of collecting was not
+always that which a public magistrate would call _legitimate_. He sought
+books every where; and when he could not _buy_ them, or obtain them by fair
+means, he would _steal_ them, and carry them home in the sleeves of his
+gown! He flourished about a century ago; and, with very few exceptions, all
+the best conditioned books in the library belonged to this magisterial
+book-robber. Among them I noted down with singular satisfaction the Aldine
+edition of _Stephanus de Urbibus_, 1502, folio--in its old vellum binding:
+seemly to the eye, and comfortable to the touch. Nor did his copy of the
+_Repertorium Statutorum Ordinis Cartusiensis_, printed by _Amerbach, at
+Basil_, in a glorious gothic character, 1510, folio, escape my especial
+notice--also the same Bibliomaniac's beautiful copy of the _Mentz Herbal_,
+of 1484, in 4to.
+
+But the obliquities of Martin assume a less questionable aspect, when we
+contemplate a noble work, which he not only projected, but left behind
+ready for publication. It is thus entitled: _Athenae Normannorum veteres ac
+recentes, seu syllabus Auctorum qui oriundi e Normannia, &c._ It consists
+of one volume, in MS., having the authority of government, to publish it,
+prefixed. There is a short Latin preface, by Martin, followed by two pages
+of Latin verses beginning thus:
+
+    _In Auctorum Normannicorum Syllabum.
+      Prolusio metrica.
+    En Syllabus prodit palam
+    Contextus arte sedula
+    Ex litteratae Neustriae
+    Auctoribus celebribus._
+      &c. &c.
+
+Among the men, the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen,[129] was the
+famous SAMUEL BOCHART; at once a botanist, a scholar, and a critic of
+distinguished celebrity. He was a native of Rouen, and his books (many of
+them replete with valuable ms. notes) are among the chief treasures of the
+public library, here. Indeed there is a distinct catalogue of them, and the
+funds left by their illustrious owner form the principal support of the
+library establishment. Bochart's portrait, with those of many other
+benefactors to the library, adorns the walls; suspended above the books:
+affording a very agreeable coup-d'oeil. Indeed the principal division of
+the library, the further end of which commands a pleasant prospect, is
+worthy of an establishment belonging to the capital of an empire. The
+kindness of M. Hebert, and of his assistant, rendered my frequent
+sojournings therein yet more delectable. The portrait of his uncle, M.
+MOYSANT, is among the ornaments of the chief room. Though Moysant was large
+of stature, his lungs were feeble, and his constitution was delicate. At
+the age of nineteen, he was appointed professor of grammar and rhetoric in
+the college of Lisieux. He then went to Paris, and studied under Beau and
+Batteux; when, applying himself more particularly to the profession of
+physic, he returned to Caen, in his thirtieth year, and put on the cap of
+Doctor of medicine; but he wanted either nerves or stamina for the
+successful exercise of his profession. He had cured a patient, after
+painful and laborious attention, of a very serious illness; but his patient
+chose to take liberties too soon with his convalescent state. He was
+imprudent: had a relapse; and was hurried to his grave. Moysant took it
+seriously to heart, and gave up his business in precipitancy and disgust.
+In fact, he was of too sanguine and irritable a temperament for the display
+of that cool, cautious, and patient conduct, which it behoveth all young
+physicians to adopt, ere they can possibly hope to attain the honours or
+the wealth of the _Halfords_ and _Matons_ of the day! Our Moysant returned
+to the study of his beloved belles-lettres. At that moment, luckily, the
+Society of the Jesuits was suppressed; and he was called by the King, in
+1763, to fill the chair of Rhetoric in one of the finest establishments of
+that body at Caen. He afterwards successively became perpetual Secretary of
+the Academy of Sciences, and Vice-President of the Society of Agriculture.
+He was next dubbed by the University, Dean of the faculty of arts, and was
+selected to pronounce the public oration upon the marriage of the
+unfortunate Louis XVI. with Marie Antoinette. He was now a marked and
+distinguished public character. The situation of PUBLIC LIBRARIAN was only
+wanting to render his reputation complete, and _that_ he instantly obtained
+upon the death of his predecessor. With these occupations, he united that
+of instructing the English (who were always in the habit of visiting Caen,)
+in the French language; and he obtained, in return, from some of his adult
+pupils, a pretty good notion of the laws and liberties of Old England.
+
+The Revolution now came on: when, like many of his respectable brethren, he
+hailed it at first as the harbinger of national reformation and prosperity.
+But he had soon reason to find that he had been deceived. However, in the
+fervour of the moment, and upon the suppression of the monastic and other
+public libraries, he received a very wide and unqualified commission to
+search all the libraries in the department of _Calvados_, and to bring home
+to Caen all the treasures he might discover. He set forth upon this mission
+with truly public spirited ideas: resolving (says his nephew) to do for
+Normandy what Dugdale and Dodsworth had done for England--and a _Monasticum
+Neustriacum_ was the commendable object of his ambition. He promised much,
+and perhaps did more than he promised. His curious collection (exclusively
+of the cart-loads of books which were sent to Caen) was shewn to his
+countrymen; but the guillotine was now the order of the day--when Moysant
+"resolved to visit England, and submit to the English nobility the plan of
+his work, as that nation always attached importance to the preservation of
+the monuments, or literary materials, of the middle ages."--He knew
+(continues the nephew) how proud the English were of their descent from the
+Norman nobles, and it was only to put them in possession of the means of
+preserving the unquestionable proofs of their origin. Moysant accordingly
+came over with his wife, and they were both quickly declared emigrants;
+their return was interdicted; and our bibliomaniac learnt, with
+heart-rending regret, that they had resolved upon the sale of the national
+property in France. He was therefore to live by his wits; having spiritedly
+declined all offer of assistance from the English government. In this
+dilemma he published a work entitled "_Bibliotheque des Ecrivains Francais,
+ou choix des meilleurs morceaux en prose et en vers, extraits de leurs
+ouvrages_,"--a collection, which was formed with judgment, and which was
+attended with complete success. The first edition was in four octavo
+volumes, in 1800; the second, in six volumes 1803; a third edition, I
+think, followed, with a pocket dictionary of the English and French
+languages. It was during his stay amongst us that he was deservedly
+admitted a member of the Society of Antiquaries; but he returned to France
+in 1802, before the appearance of the second edition of his _Bibliotheque_;
+when, hawk-like, soaring or sailing in suspense between the
+book-atmospheres of Paris and Caen, he settled within the latter place--and
+again perched himself (at the united call of his townsmen) upon the chair
+destined for the PUBLIC LIBRARIAN! It was to give order, method, and
+freedom of access, to the enormous mass of books, which the dissolution of
+the monastic libraries had caused to be accumulated at Caen, that Moysant
+and his colleagues now devoted themselves with an assiduity as heroic as it
+was unintermitting. But the health of our generalissimo, which had been
+impaired during his residence in England, began to give way beneath such a
+pressure of fatigue and anxiety. Yet it pleased Providence to prolong his
+life till towards the close of the year 1813: when he had the satisfaction
+of viewing his folios, quartos, octavos, and duodecimos, arranged in
+regular succession, and fair array; when his work was honestly done; and
+when future visitors had only to stretch forth their hands and gather the
+fruit which he had placed within their reach. His death (we are told)[130]
+was gentle, and like unto sleep. Religion had consoled him in his latter
+moments; and after having reposed upon its efficacy, he waited with perfect
+composure for the breathing of his last sigh! Let the name of MOYSANT be
+mentioned with the bibliomaniacal honours which, are doubtless its due!...
+
+From Librarians, revert we to books: to the books in the PUBLIC LIBRARY of
+Caen. The oldest printed volume contained in it, and which had been bound
+with a MS, on the supposition of its being a manuscript also, is
+Numeister's impression of _Aretinus de Bella adversus Gothos_, 1470, folio;
+the first book from the press of the printer. I undeceived M. Hebert, who
+had supposed it to be a MS. The lettering is covered with horn, and the
+book is bound in boards; "all proper." The oldest _Latin Bible_ they
+possess, is of the date of 1485; but there is preserved one volume of
+Sweynheym and Pannartz's impression of _De Lyra's Commentary upon the
+Bible_, of the date of 1471-2, which luckily contains the list of books
+printed by those printers in their memorable supplicatory letter to Pope
+Sixtus IV. The earliest Latin Classic appears to be the _Juvenal_ of 1474,
+with the _Commentary of Calderinus_, printed at Rome; unless a dateless
+impression of _Lucan_, in the earliest type of Gering, with the verses
+placed at a considerable distance from each other, claim chronological
+precedence. There is also a _Valerius Maximus_ of 1475, by Caesaris and
+Stol, but without their names. It is a large copy, soiled at the beginning.
+Of the same date is Gering's impression of the _Legenda Sanctorum_; and
+among the Fifteeners I almost coveted a very elegant specimen of _Jehan du
+Pre's_ printing (with a device used by him never before seen by me,) of an
+edition of _La Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, in its original binding. I
+collected, from the written catalogue, that they had only FORTY-FIVE works
+printed in the FIFTEENTH CENTURY; and of these, none were of first-rate
+quality.
+
+Among the MSS., I was much struck with the beautiful penmanship of a work,
+in three folio volumes, of the middle of the sixteenth century, entitled;
+_Divertissemens touchant le faict de la guerre, extraits des livres de
+Polybe, Frontin, Vegece, Cornazzan, Machiavel, et autres bons autheurs."_
+It has no illuminations, but the scription is beautiful. A _Breviary of the
+Church Service of Lisieux_, of the fifteenth century, has some pretty but
+common illuminations. It is not however free from injury. Of more intrinsic
+worth is a MS. entitled _Du Costentin_, (a district not far from Caen,)
+with the following prefix in the hand-writing of Moysant. "Ces memoires
+sont de M. Toustaint de Billy, cure du Mesnil au-parc, qui avoit travaille
+toute sa vie a l'histoire du Cotentin. Ils sont rares et m'ont ete accordes
+par M. Jourdan, Notaire, auquel ils appartenoient. Le p. (Pere) le Long et
+Mons. Teriet de fontette ne les out pas connu. Moysantz." It is a small
+folio, in a neat hand-writing. Another MS., or rather a compound of ms. and
+printed leaves, of yet considerably more importance, in 3 folio volumes, is
+entitled _Le Moreri des Normans, par Joseph Andrie Guiat de Rouen:_ on the
+reverse of the title, we read, "_Supplement au Dictionnaire de Moreri pour
+ce qui concerne la province de Normandie, et ses illustres_."  A short
+preface follows; then an ode "aux Grands Hommes de Normandie." It is
+executed in the manner of a dictionary, running in alphabetical order. The
+first volume extends to the letter I, and is illustrated with scraps from
+newspapers, and a few portraits. It is written pretty fully in double
+columns. The portrait and biography of _Bouzard_ form an admirable specimen
+of biographical literary memoirs. The second volume goes to Z. The third
+volume is entitled "_Les trois Siecles palinodiques, ou Histoire Generale
+des Palinods de Rouen, Dieppe, &c._--by the same hand, with an equal
+quantity of matter. It is right that such labours should be noticed, for
+the sake of all future BLISS-like editors of provincial literature. There
+is another similar work, in 2 folio ms. volumes, relating to _Coutance_.
+
+Before we again touch upon printed books, but of a later period, it may be
+right to inform you that the treasures of this Library suffered materially
+from the commotions of the Calvinists. Those hot-headed interpreters of
+scripture destroyed every thing in the shape of ornament or elegance
+attached to book-covers; and piles of volumes, however sacred, or
+unexceptionable on the score of good morals, were consigned to the fury of
+the flames. Of the remaining volumes which I saw, take the following very
+rapid sketch. Of _Hours_, or _Church Services_, there is a prodigiously
+fine copy of an edition printed by _Vostre_, in 4to., upon paper, without
+date. It is in the original ornamented cover, or binding, with a forest of
+rough edges to the leaves--and doubtless the finest copy of the kind I ever
+saw. Compared with this, how inferior, in every respect is a cropt copy of
+_Kerver's_ impression of a similar work, printed upon vellum! This latter
+is indeed a very indifferent book; but the rough usage it has met with is
+the sole cause of such inferiority. I was well pleased with a fair, sound
+copy of the _Speculum Stultorum_, in 4to., bl. letter, in hexameter and
+pentameter verses, without date. Nor did I examine without interest a rare
+little volume entitled "_Les Origines de quelques Coutumes anciennes, et de
+plusieurs facons de parler triviales. Avec un vieux Manuscrit en vers,
+touchant l'Origine des Chevaliers Bannerets_; printed at Caen in 1672,
+12mo.: a curious little work. They have a fine (royal) copy of _Walton's
+Polyglot_, with an excellent impression of the head; and a large paper copy
+of _Stephen's Greek Glossary_; in old vellum binding, with a great number
+of ms. notes by Bochart. Also a fine large paper _Photius_ of 1654, folio.
+But among their LARGE PAPERS, few volumes tower with greater magnificence
+than do the three folios of _La Sainte Bible_, printed by the Elzevirs at
+Amsterdam, in 1669. They are absolutely fine creatures; of the stateliest
+dimensions and most attractive forms. They also pretend that their large
+paper copy of the first edition of _Huet's Praeparatio Evangelica_, in
+folio, is unique. Probably it is, as the author presented it to the Library
+himself. The _Basil Eustathius_ of 1559, in 3 volumes folio, is as glorious
+a copy as is Mr. Grenville's of the Roman edition of 1542.[131] It is in
+its pristine membranaceous attire--the vellum lapping over the fore-edges,
+in the manner of Mr. Heber's copy of the first Aldine Aristotle,--most
+comfortable to behold! There is a fine large paper copy of _Montaigne's
+Essays_, 1635, folio, containing two titles and a portrait of the author.
+It is bound in red morocco, and considered by M. Hebert a most rare and
+desirable book. Indeed I was told that one Collector in particular was
+exceedingly anxious to obtain it. I saw a fine copy of the folio edition of
+_Ronsard_, printed in 1584, which is considered rare. There is also a copy
+of the well known _Liber Nanceidos_, from Bochart's library, with a few ms.
+notes by Bochart himself. Here I saw, for the first time, a French metrical
+version of the works of _Virgil, by Robert and Anthony Chevaliers d'Agneaux
+freres, de Vire, en Normandie_; published at Paris in 1582, in elegant
+italic type; considered rare. The same translators published a version of
+Horace; but it is not here. You may remember that I made mention of a
+certain work (in one of my late letters) called _Les Vaudevires d'Olivier
+Basselin_. They preserve here a very choice copy of it, in 4to., large
+paper; and of which size only ten copies are said to be in existence. The
+entire title is "_Les Vaudevires Poesies du XVme. siecle, par Olivier
+Basselin, avec un Discours sur sa Vie et des Notes pour l'explication de
+quelques anciens Mots: Vire, 1811_." 8vo. There are copies upon pink paper,
+of which this is one--and which was in fact presented to the Library by the
+Editors. Prefixed to it, is an indifferent drawing, in india ink,
+representing the old castle of Vire, now nearly demolished, with Basselin
+seated at a table along with three of his boosing companions, chaunting his
+verses "a pleine gorge." This Basselin appears in short to have been the
+French DRUNKEN BARNABY of his day.
+
+"What! (say you:) "not _one_ single specimen from the library of your
+favourite DIANE DE POICTIERS? Can this be possible?"--No more of
+interrogatory, I beseech you: but listen attentively and gratefully to the
+intelligence which you are about to receive--and fancy not, if you have any
+respect for my taste, that I have forgotten my favourite Diane de
+Poictiers. On looking sharply about you, within this library, there will be
+found a magnificent copy of the _Commentaries of Chrysostom upon the
+Epistles of St. Paul_, printed by _Stephanus et Fratres a Sabio, at
+Verona_, in 1529, in three folio volumes. It is by much and by far the
+finest Greek work which I ever saw from the _Sabii_ Press.[132] No wonder
+Colbert jumped with avidity to obtain such a copy of it: for, bating that
+it is "un peu rogne," the condition and colour are quite enchanting. And
+then for the binding!--which either Colbert, or his librarian Baluze, had
+the good sense and good taste to leave _untouched_. The first and second
+volumes are in reddish calf, with the royal arms in the centre, and the
+half moon (in tarnished silver) beneath: the arabesque ornaments, or
+surrounding border is in gilt. The edges are gilt, stamped; flush with the
+fore edges of the binding. In the centre of the sides of the binding, is a
+large H, with a fleur de lis at top: the top and bottom borders presenting
+the usual D and H, united, of which you may take a peep in the
+_Bibliographical Decameron._ The third volume is in dark blue leather, with
+the same side ornaments; and the title of the work, as with the preceding
+volumes, is lettered in Greek capitals. The H and crown, and monogram, as
+before; but the edges of the leaves are, in this volume, stamped at bottom
+and top with an H, surmounted by a crown. The sides of the binding are also
+fuller and richer than in the preceding volumes. This magnificent copy was
+given to the Library by P. Le Jeune. It is quite a treasure in its way.
+
+Another specimen, if you please, from the library of our favourite Diana.
+It is rather of a singular character: consisting of a French version of
+that once extremely popular work (originally published in the Latin
+language) called the _Cosmography of Sebastian Munster._ The edition is of
+the date of 1556, in folio. This copy must have been as splendid as it is
+yet curious. It contains two portraits of Henry the Second ("HENRICVS II.
+GALLIARVM REX INVICTISS. PP.") and four of Holofernes ("OLOFARNE.") on each
+side of the binding. In the centre of the sides we recognise the lunar
+ornaments of Diane de Poictiers; but on the back, are five portraits of
+her, in gilt, each within the bands--and, like all the other ornaments,
+much rubbed. Two of these five heads are facing a different head of Henry.
+There are also on the sides two pretty medallions of a winged figure
+blowing a trumpet, and standing upon a chariot drawn by four horses: there
+are also small fleur de lis scattered between the ornaments of the sides of
+the binding. The date of the medallion seems to be 1553. The copy is
+cruelly cropt, and the volume is sufficiently badly printed; which makes it
+the more surprising that such pains should have been taken with its
+bibliopegistic embellishments. Upon the whole, this copy, for the sake of
+its ornaments, is vehemently desirable.
+
+And now, my dear friend, you must make your bow with me to M. Hebert, and
+bid farewell to the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Caen. Indeed I am fully disposed to
+bid farewell to every thing else in the same town: not however without
+being conscious that very much, both of what I have, and of what I have
+not, seen, merits a detail well calculated to please the intellectual
+appetites of travellers. What I have seen, has been indeed but summarily,
+and even superficially, described; but I have done my best; and was fearful
+of exciting ennui by a more parish-register-like description. For the
+service performed in places of public worship, I can add nothing to my
+Rouen details--except that there is here an agreeable PROTESTANT CHURCH, of
+which M. MARTIN ROLLIN, is the Pastor. He has just published a "_Memoire
+Historique sur l'Etat Eclesiastique des Protestans Francois depuis Francois
+Ler jusqu'a Louis XVIII_:" in a pamphlet of some fourscore pages. The task
+was equally delicate and difficult of execution; but having read it, I am
+free to confess that M. Rollin has done his work very neatly and very
+cleverly. I went in company with Mrs. and Miss I---- to hear the author
+preach; for he is a young man (about thirty) who draws his congregation as
+much from his talents as a preacher, as from his moral worth as an
+individual. It was on the occasion of several young ladies and gentlemen
+taking the sacrament for the first time. The church is strictly, I believe,
+according to the Geneva persuasion; but there was something so comfortable,
+and to me so cheering, in the avowed doctrine of Protestantism, that I
+accompanied my friends with alacrity to the spot. Many English were
+present; for M. Rollin is deservedly a favourite with our countrymen. The
+church, however, was scarcely half filled. The interior is the most
+awkwardly adapted imaginable to the purposes either of reading or of
+preaching: for it consists of two aisles at right angles with each other.
+The desk and pulpit are fixed in the receding angle of their junction; so
+that the voice flies forth to the right and left immediately as it escapes
+the preacher. After a very long, and a very tediously sung psalm, M. Rollin
+commenced his discourse. He is an extemporaneous preacher. His voice is
+sweet and clear, rather than sonorous and impressive; and he is perhaps,
+occasionally, too metaphorical in his composition. For the first time I
+heard the words "_Oh Dieu!_" pronounced with great effect: but the sermon
+was made up of better things than mere exclamations. M. Rollin was
+frequently ingenious; logical, and convincing; and his address to the young
+communicants, towards the close of his discourse, was impressive and
+efficient. The young people were deeply touched by his powerful appeal, and
+I believe each countenance was suffused with tears. He guarded them against
+the dangers and temptations of that world upon which they were about to
+enter, by setting before them the consolations of the religion which they
+had professed, in a manner which indicated that he had really their
+interests and happiness at heart.
+
+A word only about COURTS OF JUSTICE. "A smack of the whip" will tingle in
+my ears through life;[133] and I shall always attend "_Nisi Prius_"
+exhibitions with more than ordinary curiosity. I strolled one morning to
+the _Place de Justice_--which is well situated, in an airy and respectable
+neighbourhood. I saw two or three barristers, en pleine costume, pretty
+nearly in the English fashion; walking quickly to and fro with their
+clients, in the open air before the hall; and could not help contrasting
+the quick eye and unconcerned expression of countenance of the former, with
+the simple look and yet earnest action of the latter. I entered the Hall,
+and, to my astonishment, heard only a low muttering sound. Scarcely fifteen
+people were present, I approached the bench; and what, think you, were the
+intellectual objects upon which my eye alighted? Three Judges ... all fast
+asleep! Five barristers, two of whom were nodding: one was literally
+addressing _the bench_ ... and the remaining two were talking to their
+clients in the most unconcerned manner imaginable. The entire effect, on my
+mind, was ridiculous in the extreme. Far be it from me, however, to
+designate the foregoing as a generally true picture of the administration
+of Justice at Caen. I am induced to hope and believe that a place, so long
+celebrated for the study of the law, yet continues occasionally to exhibit
+proofs of that logic and eloquence for which it has been renowned of old. I
+am willing to conclude that all the judges are not alike somniferous; and
+that if the acuteness of our GIFFORDS, and the rhetoric of our DENMANS,
+sometimes instruct and enliven the audience, there will be found Judges to
+argue like GIBBS and to decide like SCOTT.[134] Farewell.
+
+
+[121] _Memoires de l'Academie des Belles Lettres de Caen. Chez Jacques
+    Manoury, 1757, 4 vols. crown 8vo. Rapport generale sur les travaux de
+    l'Academie des Sciences, Arts, et Belles Lettres de la ville de Caen,
+    jusqu'au premier Janvier, 1811. Par P.F.T. Delariviere, Secretaire. A
+    Caen, chez Chalopin_. An. 1811-15. 2 vols. on different paper, with
+    different types, and provokingly of a larger form than its precursor.
+
+[122] [On consulting the Addenda of the preceding edition, it will be seen
+    that this work appeared in the year 1820, under the title of _Essais
+    Historiques sur la Ville de Caen et son Arondissement_, in 2 small
+    octavo volumes. With the exception of two or three indifferent plates
+    of relics of sculpture, and of titles with armorial bearings, this
+    work is entirely divested of ornament. There are some useful
+    historical details in it, taken from the examination of records and
+    the public archives; but a HISTORY of CAEN is yet a desideratum.]
+
+[123] [By the favour of our common friend Mr. Douce, I have obtained
+    permission to enrich these pages with the PORTRAIT of this
+    distinguished Archaeologist, from an original Drawing in the
+    possession of the same friend. See the OPPOSITE PLATE.]
+
+[124] He has recently (1816) published an octavo volume entitled
+     "_Histoire des Polypiers, Coralligenes Flexibles, vulgairement
+    nommes Zoophytes. Par J.V.F. Lamouroux_. From one of his Epistles,
+    I subjoin a fac-simile of his autograph.
+
+    [Illustration: Lamouroux]
+
+[125] The medallic project here alluded to is one which does both the
+    projector, and the arts of France, infinite honour; and I sincerely
+    wish that some second SIMON may rise up among ourselves to emulate,
+    and if possible to surpass, the performances of GATTEAUX and AUDRIEU.
+    The former is the artist to whom we are indebted for the medal of
+    Malherbe, and the latter for the series of the Bonaparte medals. [Has
+    my friend Mr. Hawkins, of the Museum, abandoned all thoughts of his
+    magnificent project connected with such a NATIONAL WORK?]
+
+[126] See post--under the running title Bayeux.
+
+[127] See page 172 ante.
+
+[128] It is described in the 2d vol. of the AEDES ALTHORPIANAE; forming the
+    Supplement to the BIBLIOTHECA SPENCERIANA: see page 94.
+
+[129] Goube, in his _Histoire du Duche de Normandie_, 1815, 8vo. has
+    devoted upwards of thirty pages to an enumeration of these worthies;
+    vol. iii. p. 295. But in _Huet's Origines de la Ville de Caen;_
+    p. 491-652, there will be found much more copious and satisfactory
+    details.
+
+[130] I am furnished with the above particulars from a _Notice
+    Historique_ of Moysant.
+
+[131] [A copy of this Roman Edition of 1542, of equal purity and amplitude,
+    is in the library of the Rev. Mr Hawtrey of Eton College: obtained of
+    Messrs. Payne and Foss.]
+
+[132] When I was at Paris in the year 1819, I strove hard to obtain from
+    Messrs. Debure the copy of this work, UPON VELLUM, which they had
+    purchased at the sale of the Macarthy Library. But it was destined for
+    the Royal Library, and is described in the _Cat. des Livres Imp. sur
+    Velin_, vol. i. p. 263.
+
+[133] [Twenty-eight years have passed away since I kept my terms at
+    Lincoln's Inn with a view of being called to THE BAR; and at this
+    moment I have a perfect recollection of the countenances and manner of
+    Messrs. Bearcroft, Erskine, and Mingay,--the pitted champions of the
+    King's Bench--whom I was in the repeated habit of attending within
+    that bustling and ever agitated arena. Their wit, their repartee--the
+    broad humour of Mingay, and the lightning-like quickness of Erskine,
+    with the more caustic and authoritative dicta of Bearcroft--delighted
+    and instructed me by turns. In the year 1797 I published, in one large
+    chart, an _Analysis of the first volume of Blackstone's
+    Commentaries_--called THE RIGHTS OF PERSONS. It was dedicated to
+    Mr. (afterwards Lord) Erskine; and published, as will be easily
+    conceived, with more zeal than discretion. I got out of the scrape by
+    selling the copper plate for 50 shillings, after having given 40
+    guineas for the engraving of the Analysis. Some fifty copies of the
+    work were sold, and 250 were struck off. Where the surplus have lain,
+    and rotted, I cannot pretend to conjecture: but I know it to be a VERY
+    RARE production!]
+
+[134] [So in the preceding Edition. He who writes notes on his own
+    performances after a lapse of ten years, will generally have something
+    to add, and something to correct. Of the above names, the FIRST was
+    afterwards attached to the _Master of the Rolls_, and to a
+    _Peerage_: with the intervening honour of having been _Chief
+    Justice of the Common Pleas_. My admiration of this rapid elevation
+    in an honourable profession will not be called singular; for, after an
+    acquaintance of twenty years with Lord Gifford, I can honestly say,
+    that, while his reputation as a Lawyer, and his advancement in his
+    profession, were only what his friends predicted, his character as a
+    MAN continued the same:--kind hearted, unaffected, gentle, and
+    generous. He died, 'ere he had attained his 48th year, in 1826.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+BAYEUX. CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND DEACONS. CRYPT OF THE
+CATHEDRAL.
+
+_Bayeux, May 16_, 1818.
+
+
+Two of the most gratifying days of my Tour have been spent at this place.
+The Cathedral (one of the most ancient religious places of worship in
+Normandy)[135] has been paced with a reverential step, and surveyed with a
+careful eye. That which scarcely warmed the blood of Ducarel has made my
+heart beat with an increased action; and although this town be even dreary,
+as well as thinly peopled, there is that about it which, from associations
+of ideas, can never fail to afford a lively interest to a British
+antiquary.
+
+The Diligence brought me here from Caen in about two hours and a half. The
+country, during the whole route, is open, well cultivated, occasionally
+gently undulating, but generally denuded of trees. Many pretty little
+churches, with delicate spires, peeped out to the right and left during the
+journey; but the first view of the CATHEDRAL of BAYEUX put all the others
+out of my recollection. I was conveyed to the _Hotel de Luxembourg_, the
+best inn in the town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated. Mine
+hostess is a smart, lively, and shrewd woman; perfectly mistress of the art
+and craft of innkeeping, and seems to have never known sorrow or
+disappointment. Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jun. had, the preceding year,
+been occupied in making a fac-simile of the "famous tapestry" for our
+Society of Antiquaries, I enquired if mine hostess had been acquainted with
+that gentleman: "Monsieur," "je le connois bien; c'est un brave homme: il
+demeura tout pres: aussi travailla-t-il comme quatre diables!" I will not
+disguise that this eulogy of our amiable countryman[136] pleased me "right
+well"--though I was pretty sure that such language was the current (and to
+me somewhat _coarse_) coin of compliment upon all occasions: and instead of
+"vin ordinaire" I ordered, rather in a gay and triumphant manner, "une
+bouteille du vin de Beaune"--"Ah! ca," (replied the lively landlady,) "vous
+le trouverez excellent, Monsieur, il n'y a pas du vin comme le vin de
+Beaune." Bespeaking my dinner, I strolled towards the cathedral.
+
+There is, in fact, no proper approach to this interesting edifice. The
+western end is suffocated with houses. Here stands the post-office; and
+with the most unsuspecting frankness, on the part of the owner, I had
+permission to examine, with my own hands, within doors, every letter--under
+the expectation that there were some for myself. Nor was I disappointed.
+But you must come with me to the cathedral: and of course we must enter
+together at the western front. There are five porticos: the central one
+being rather large, and the two, on either side, comparatively small.
+Formerly, these were covered with sculptured figures and ornaments; but the
+Calvinists in the sixteenth, and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth
+century, have contrived to render their present aspect mutilated and
+repulsive in the extreme. On entering, I was struck with the two large
+transverse Norman arches which bestride the area, or square, for the bases
+of the two towers. It is the boldest and finest piece of masonry in the
+whole building. The interior disappointed me. It is plain, solid, and
+divested of ornament. A very large wooden crucifix is placed over the
+screen of the choir, which has an effect--of its kind: but the monuments,
+and mural ornaments, scarcely deserve mention. The richly ornamented
+arches, on each side of the nave, springing from massive single pillars,
+have rather an imposing effect: above them are Gothic ornaments of a later
+period, but too thickly and injudiciously applied. Let me now suppose that
+the dinner is over, and the "vin de Beaune" approved of--and that on a
+second visit, immediately afterwards, there is both time and inclination
+for a leisurely survey. On looking up, upon entering, within the side aisle
+to the left, you observe, with infinite regret, a dark and filthy green
+tint indicative of premature decay--arising from the lead (of that part of
+the roof,) having been stript for the purpose of making bullets during the
+Revolution. The extreme length of the interior is about 320 English feet,
+by 76 high, and the same number of feet in width. The transepts are about
+125 feet long, by 36 wide. The western towers, to the very top of the
+spires, are about 250 English feet in height.
+
+One of the most curious objects in the Cathedral, is the CRYPT; of which,
+singularly enough, all knowledge had been long lost till the year 1412. The
+circumstance of its discovery is told in the following inscription, cut in
+the Gothic letter, upon a brass plate, and placed just above the southern
+entrance:
+
+  _En lan mil quatre cens et douze
+  Tiers iour d'Auril que pluye arrouse
+  Les biens de la terre, la journee
+  Que la Pasques fut celebree
+  Noble homme et Reverend Pere
+  Jehan de Boissey, de'la Mere
+  Eglise de Bayeux Pasteur
+  Rendi l'ame a son Createur
+  Et lors enfoissant la place
+  Devant la grand Autel de grace
+  Trova l'on la basse Chapelle
+  Dont il n'avoit ete nouvelle
+  Ou il est mis en sepulture
+  Dieu ueuille avoir son ame en cure. Amen_.
+
+It was my good fortune to visit this crypt at a very particular juncture.
+The day after my arrival at Bayeux, there was a grand _Ordination_. Before
+I had quitted my bed, I heard the mellow and measured notes of human
+voices; and starting up, I saw an almost interminable procession of
+priests, deacons, &c., walking singly behind each other, in two lines,
+leaving a considerable space between them. They walked bareheaded,
+chanting, with a book in their hands; and bent their course towards the
+cathedral. I dressed quickly; and, dispatching my breakfast with equal
+promptitude, pursued the same route. On entering the western doors, thrown
+wide open, I shall never forget the effect produced by the crimson and blue
+draperies of the Norman women:--a great number of whom were clustered, in
+groups, upon the top of the screen, about the huge wooden
+crucifix;--witnessing the office of ordination going on below, in the
+choir. They seemed to be suspended in the air; and considering the piece of
+sculpture around which they appeared to gather themselves--with the
+elevation of the screen itself--it was a combination of objects upon which
+the pencil might have been exercised with the happiest possible result. An
+ordination in a foreign country, and especially one upon such an apparently
+extensive scale, was, to a professional man, not to be slighted; and
+accordingly I determined upon making the most of the spectacle before me.
+Looking accidentally down my favourite crypt, I observed that some
+religious ceremony was going on there. The northern grate, or entrance,
+being open, I descended a flight of steps, and quickly became an inmate of
+this subterraneous abode. The first object that struck me was, the warm
+glow of day light which darted upon the broad pink cross of the surplice of
+an officiating priest: a candle was burning upon the altar, on each side of
+him: another priest, in a black vesture, officiated as an assistant; and
+each, in turn, knelt, and bowed, and prayed ... to the admiration of some
+few half dozen casual yet attentive visitors--while the full sonorous
+chant, from the voices of upwards of one hundred and fifty priests and
+deacons, from the choir above, gave a peculiar sort of solemnity to the
+mysterious gloom below.
+
+I now ascended; and by the help of a chair, took a peep at the ceremony
+through the intercolumniations of the choir: my diffidence, or rather
+apprehension of refusal, having withheld me from striving to gain
+admittance within the body. But my situation was a singularly good one:
+opposite the altar. I looked, and beheld this vast clerical congregation at
+times kneeling, or standing, or sitting: partially, or wholly: while the
+swell of their voices, accompanied by the full intonations of the organ,
+and the yet more penetrating notes of the _serpent_, seemed to breathe more
+than earthly solemnity around. The ceremony had now continued full two
+hours; when, in the midst of the most impressive part of it, and while the
+young candidates for ordination were prostrate before the high altar (the
+diapason stop of the organ, as at Dieppe,[137] sending forth the softest
+notes) the venerable Bishop placed the glittering mitre (apparently covered
+with gold gauze) upon his head, and with a large gilt crosier in his right
+hand, descended, with a measured and majestic step, from the floor of the
+altar, and proceeded to the execution of the more mysterious part of his
+office. The candidates, with closed eyes, and outstretched hands, were
+touched with the holy oil--and thus became consecrated. On rising, each
+received a small piece of bread between the thumb and forefinger, and the
+middle and third fingers; their hands being pressed together--and, still
+with closed eyes, they retired behind the high altar, where an officiating
+priest made use of the bread to rub off the holy oil. The Bishop is an
+elderly man, about three score and ten; he has the usual sallow tint of his
+countrymen, but his eye, somewhat sunk or retired, beneath black and
+overhanging eyebrows, is sharp and expressive. His whole mien has the
+indication of a well-bred and well-educated gentleman. When he descended
+with his full robes, crosier, and mitre, from the high altar, me-thought I
+saw some of the venerable forms of our WYKEHAMS and WAYNEFLETES of
+old--commanding the respect, and receiving the homage, of a grateful
+congregation! At the very moment my mind was deeply occupied by the effects
+produced from this magnificent spectacle, I strolled into _Our Lady's
+Chapel_, behind the choir, and beheld a sight which converted seriousness
+into surprise--bordering upon mirth. Above the altar of this remotely
+situated chapel, stands the IMAGE OF THE VIRGIN with the infant Jesus in
+her arms. This is the usual chief ornament of Our Lady's Chapel. But what
+drapery for the mother of the sacred child!--stiff, starch,
+rectangularly-folded, white muslin, stuck about with diverse artificial
+flowers--like unto a shew figure in Brook Green Fair! This ridiculous and
+most disgusting costume began more particularly at Caudebec. Why is it
+persevered in? Why is it endured? The French have a quick sensibility, and
+a lively apprehension of what is beautiful and brilliant in the arts of
+sculpture and painting ... but the terms "joli," "gentil," and "propre,"
+are made use of, like charity, to "cover a multitude of sins" ... or
+aberrations from true taste. I scarcely stopped a minute in this chapel,
+but proceeded to a side one, to the right, which yet affords proof of its
+pristine splendour. It is covered with gold and colours. Two or three
+supplicants were kneeling before the crucifix, and appeared to be so
+absorbed in their devotions as to be insensible of every surrounding
+object. To them, the particular saint (I have forgotten the name) to whom
+the little chapel was dedicated, seemed to be dearer and more interesting
+than the general voice of "praise and thanksgiving" with which the choir of
+the cathedral resounded. Before we quit the place you must know that
+fourscore candidates were ordained: that there are sixty clergy attached to
+the cathedral;[138] and that upwards of four hundred thousand souls are
+under the spiritual cognizance of the BISHOP OF BAYEUX. The treasures of
+the Cathedral were once excessive,[139] and the episcopal stipend
+proportionably large: but, of late years, things are sadly changed. The
+Calvinists, in the sixteenth century, began the work of havoc and
+destruction; and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth, as usual, put the
+finish to these devastations. At present, from a very respectable source of
+information, I learn that the revenues of the Bishop scarcely exceed
+700_l_. per annum of our own money. I cannot take leave of the cathedral
+without commending, in strong terms of admiration, the lofty flying
+buttresses of the exterior of the nave. The perpendicular portions are
+crowned with a sculptured whole length figure, from which the semi-arch
+takes its spring; and are in much more elegant taste than any other part of
+the building.
+
+Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnificent EPISCOPAL PALACE. Upon
+this palace the old writers dearly loved to expatiate. There is now however
+nothing but a good large comfortable family mansion; sufficient for the
+purposes of such hospitality and entertainment as the episcopal revenues
+will afford. I have not only seen, but visited, this episcopal residence.
+In other words, my friend Pierre-Aime Lair having promised to take his last
+adieu of me at Bayeux, as he had business with the Bishop, I met him
+agreeably to appointment at the palace; but his host, with a strong corps
+of visitors, having just sate down to dinner--it was only one o'clock--I
+bade him adieu, with the hope of seeing the Bishop on the morrow--to whom
+he had indeed mentioned my name. Our farewell was undoubtedly warm and
+sincere. He had volunteered a thousand acts of kindness towards me without
+any possible motive of self interest; and as he lifted up his right hand,
+exclaiming "adieu, pour toujours!" I will not dissemble that I was sensibly
+affected by the touching manner in which it was uttered ... and PIERRE AIME
+LAIR shall always claim from me the warmest wishes for his prosperity and
+happiness.[140] I hurried back through the court-yard--at the risk of
+losing a limb from the ferocious spring of a tremendous (chained)
+mastiff--and without returning the salute of the porter, shut the gate
+violently, and departed. For five minutes, pacing the south side of the
+cathedral, I was lost in a variety of painful sensations. How was I to see
+the LIBRARY?--where could I obtain a glimpse of the TAPESTRY?--and now,
+that Pierre Aime Lair was to be no more seen, (for he told me he should
+quit the place on that same evening) who was to stand my friend, and smooth
+my access to the more curious and coveted objects of antiquity?
+
+Thus absorbed in a variety of contending reflections, a tall figure, clad
+in a loose long great coat, in a very gracious manner approached and
+addressed me. "Your name, Sir, is D----?" "At your service, Sir, that is my
+name." "You were yesterday evening at Monsieur Pluquet's, purchasing
+books?" "I was, Sir." "It seems you are very fond of old books, and
+especially of those in the French and Latin languages?" "I am fond of old
+books generally; but I now seek more particularly those in your
+language--and have been delighted with an illuminated, and apparently
+coeval, MS. of the poetry of your famous OLIVIER BASSELIN, which..." "You
+saw it, Sir, at Monsieur Pluquet's. It belonged to a common friend of us
+both. He thinks it worth..." "He asks _ten louis d'or_ for it, and he shall
+have them with all my heart." "Sir, I know he will never part with it even
+for that large sum." I smiled, as he pronounced the word "large." "Do me
+the honour, Sir, of visiting my obscure dwelling, in the country--a short
+league from hence. My abode is humble: in the midst of an orchard, which my
+father planted: but I possess a few books, some of them curious, and should
+like to _read_ double the number I _possess_." I thanked the stranger for
+his polite attention and gracious offer, which I accepted readily.... "This
+evening, Sir, if you please." "With all my heart, this very evening. But
+tell me, Sir, how can I obtain a sight of the CHAPTER LIBRARY, and of the
+famous TAPESTRY?" "Speak softly, (resumed the unknown) for I am watched in
+this place. You shall see both--but must not say that Monsieur ---- was
+your adviser or friend. For the present, farewell. I shall expect you in
+the evening." We took leave; and I returned hastily to the inn, to tell my
+adventures to my companion.
+
+There is something so charmingly mysterious in this little anecdote, that I
+would not for the world add a syllable of explanation. Leaving you,
+therefore, in full possession of it, to turn and twist it as you please,
+consider me as usual, Yours.
+
+
+[135] [Mons. Licquet supposes the crypt and the arcades of the nave to be
+    of the latter end of the eleventh century,--built by Odo, Bishop of
+    Bayeux, and Brother of William the Conqueror; and that the other
+    portions were of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries. I
+    have very great doubts indeed of any portion being of a date even so
+    early as 1170.]
+
+[136] [Another demonstration of the fickleness and changeableness of all
+    mundane affairs. Mr. Stothard, after a successful execution of his
+    great task, has ceased to be among us. His widow published his life,
+    with an account of his labours, in a quarto volume in 1823. Mr.
+    Stothard's _Monumental Effigies_, now on the eve of completion,
+    is a work which will carry his name down to the latest posterity, as
+    one of the most interesting, tasteful, and accurate of antiquarian
+    productions. See a subsequent note.]
+
+[137] See page 12, ante.
+
+[138] ["That was true, when M. Dibdin wrote his account; now, the number
+    must be reduced one half." LICQUET, vol. ii. p. 121.]
+
+[139] Cette eglise ... etoit sans contredit une des plus riches de France
+en
+    vases d'or, d'argent, et de pierreries; en reliques et en ornemens. Le
+    proces-verbal qui avoit ete dresse de toutes ses richesses, en 1476,
+    contient un detail qui va presque a l'infini." Bezieres, _Hist.
+    Sommaire_, p. 51.
+
+[140] [But ONE letter has passed between us since this separation. That
+    letter, however, only served to cement the friendliness of our
+    feelings towards each other. M. Pierre Aime Lair had heard of the
+    manner in which his name had been introduced into these pages, and
+    wished a copy of the work to be deposited in the public library at
+    Caen. Whether it be so deposited, I have never learnt. In 1827, this
+    amiable man visited England; and I saw him only during the time of an
+    ordinary morning visit. His stay was necessarily short, and his
+    residence was remote. I returned his visit--but he was away. There are
+    few things in life more gratifying than the conviction of living in
+    the grateful remembrance of the wise and the good; and THAT
+    gratification it is doubtless my happiness to enjoy--as far as relates
+    to Mons. PIERRE AIME LAIR!]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+VISIT NEAR ST. LOUP. M. PLUQUET, APOTHECARY AND BOOK-VENDER. VISIT TO THE
+BISHOP. THE CHAPTER LIBRARY. DESCRIPTION OF THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY. TRADE AND
+MANUFACTURE.
+
+
+Well, my good friend! the stranger has been visited: his library inspected:
+his services accepted: and his character partly unfolded. To this I must
+add, in the joy of my heart, (as indeed I mentioned slightly in my last)
+that both the Chapter LIBRARY and the famous TAPESTRY have been explored
+and examined in a manner, I trust, worthy of British curiosity. I hardly
+know what sort of order to adopt in this my second and last epistle from
+Bayeux; which will be semi-bibliomaniacal and semi-archaeological: and sit
+down, almost at random, to impart such intelligence as my journal and my
+memory supply.
+
+The last was almost a purely _ecclesiastical_ dispatch: as I generally
+first take off my cap to the towers and turrets of a cathedral. Now then
+for THE STRANGER! ... for it would be cruel to prolong the agony of
+expectation. Mr. Lewis having occupied himself, almost exclusively, with
+his pencil during the whole morning, I persuaded him to accompany me to
+_St. Loup_. After dinner we set out upon our expedition. It had rained in
+the interim, and every tree was charged with moisture as we passed them ...
+their blossoms exhaling sweets of the most pungent fragrance. The road ran
+in a straight line from the west front of the cathedral, which, on turning
+round, as we saw it irradiated by partial glimpses of sunshine, between
+masses of dark clouds, assumed a very imposing and venerable aspect. I
+should tell you, however, that the obliging Monsieur ---- came himself to
+the Hotel de Luxembourg, to conduct us to his humble abode: for "humble" it
+is in every sense of the word. About two-thirds of the way thither, we
+passed the little church of _St. Loup_: a perfect Gothic toy of the XIIth
+century--with the prettiest, best-proportioned tower that can be
+imagined.[141] It has a few slight clustered columns at the four angles,
+but its height and breadth are truly pigmy. The stone is of a whitish grey.
+We did not enter; and with difficulty could trace our way to examine the
+exterior through the high grass of the church yard, yet _laid_ with the
+heavy rain. What a gem would the pencil of BLORE make of this tiny,
+ancient, interesting edifice! At length we struck off, down a lane slippery
+with moisture--when, opening a large swinging gate--"here (exclaimed our
+guide)--lived and died my father, and here his son hopes to live and die
+also. Gentlemen, yonder is my hermitage." It was a retirement of the most
+secluded kind: absolutely surrounded by trees, shrubs, hay-stacks, and
+corn-stacks--for Monsieur ---- hath a fancy for farming as well as for
+reading. The stair-case, though constructed of good hard Norman stone, was
+much worn in the middle from the frequent tread of half a century. It was
+also fatiguingly steep, but luckily it was short. We followed our guide to
+the left, where, passing through one boudoir-like apartment, strewn with
+books and papers, and hung with a parcel of mean ornaments called
+_pictures_, we entered a second--of which portions of the wainscoat were
+taken away, to shew the books which were deposited behind. Row after row,
+and pile upon pile, struck my wondering eye. Anon, a closet was opened--and
+there again they were stowed, "thick and threefold." A few small busts, and
+fractured vases, were meant to grace a table in the centre of the room. Of
+the books, it is but justice to say that _rarity_ had been sacrificed to
+_utility_. There were some excellent, choice, critical works; a good deal
+of Latin; some Greek, and a sprinkle of Hebrew--for Monsieur ---- is both a
+general and a sound scholar. On pointing to _Houbigant's Hebrew Bible_, in
+four folio volumes, 1753, "do you think this copy dear at fourteen francs?"
+said he!--"How, Sir," (replied I, in an exstacy of astonishment)--you mean
+to say fourteen _louis_?" "Not at all, Sir. I purchased it at the price
+just mentioned, nor do I think it too dear at that sum"--resumed he, in the
+most unsuspecting manner. I then told him, as a sort of balsamic
+consolation, that a late friend (I alluded to poor Mr. Ormerod) rejoiced on
+giving L12. for a copy by no means superior. "Ah, le bon Dieu!...." was his
+only observation thereupon.
+
+When about to return to the boudoir, through which we had entered, I
+observed with mingled surprise and pleasure, the four prettily executed
+English prints, after the drawings of the present Lady Spencer, called
+"_New Shoes"--"Nice Supper_" &c. Monsieur ---- was pleased at my stopping
+to survey them. "Ce sont la, Monsieur (observed he), les dames qui me font
+toujours compagnie:"--nor can you conceive the very soft and gentlemanly
+manner, accompanied by a voice subdued even to sadness of tone, with which
+he made this, and almost every observation. I found, indeed, from the whole
+tenor of his discourse, that he had a mind in no ordinary a state of
+cultivation: and on observing that a great portion of his library was
+THEOLOGICAL, I asked him respecting the general subjects upon which he
+thought and wrote. He caught hold of my left arm, and stooping (for he is
+much taller than myself, ... which he easily may be, methinks I hear you
+add...) "Sir, said he, I am by profession a clergyman ... although now I am
+designated as an _ex-Cure_. I have lived through the Revolution... and may
+have partaken of some of its irregularities, rather, I should hope than of
+its atrocities. In the general hue-and-cry for reform, I thought that our
+church was capable of very great improvement, and I think so still. The
+part I took was influenced by conscientious motives, rather than by a blind
+and vehement love of reform;... but it has never been forgiven or
+forgotten. The established clergy of the place do not associate with me;
+but I care not a farthing for that--since I have here (pointing to his
+books) the very best society in the world. It was from the persuasion of
+the clergy having a constantly-fixed eye upon me, that I told you I was
+watched ... when walking near the precincts of the cathedral. I had been
+seeking you during the whole of the office of ordination." In reply to my
+question about his _archaeological_ researches, he said he was then
+occupied in writing a disquisition upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_, in which he
+should prove that the Abbe de la Rue was wrong in considering it as a
+performance of the XIIth century. "He is your great antiquarian
+oracle"--observed I. "He has an over-rated reputation"--replied he--"and
+besides, he is too hypothetical." Monsieur ---- promised to send me a copy
+of his dissertation, when printed; and then let our friend N---- be judge
+"in the matter of the Bayeux Tapestry." From the open windows of this
+hermitage, into which the branches absolutely thrust themselves, I essayed,
+but in vain, to survey the surrounding country; and concluded a visit of
+nearly two hours, in a manner the most gratifying imaginable to honest
+feelings. A melancholy, mysterious air, seemed yet, however, to mark this
+amiable stranger, which had not been quite cleared up by the account he had
+given of himself. "Be assured (said he, at parting) that I will see you
+again, and that every facility shall be afforded you in the examination of
+the Bayeux Tapestry. I have an uncle who is an efficient member of the
+corporation."
+
+On my way homeward from this ramble, I called again upon M. Pluquet, an
+apothecary by profession, but a book lover and a book vender[142] in his
+heart. The scene was rather singular. Below, was his _Pharmacopeia_; above
+were his bed-room and books; with a broken antique or two, in the
+court-yard, and in the passage leading to it. My first visit had been
+hasty, and only as a whetter to the second. Yet I contrived to see from a
+visitor, who was present, the desirable MS. of the vulgar poetry of OLIVIER
+BASSELIN, of which I made mention to M.----. The same stranger was again
+present. We all quietly left the drugs below for drugs of a different
+description above--books being called by the ancients, you know, the
+"MEDICINE OF THE SOUL." We mounted into the bed-room. M. Pluquet now opened
+his bibliomaniacal battery upon us. "Gentlemen you see, in this room, all
+the treasures in the world I possess: my wife--my child--my books--my
+antiquities. "Yes, gentlemen, these are my treasures. I am enthusiastic,
+even to madness, in the respective pursuits into which the latter branch
+out; but my means are slender--and my aversion to my _business_ is just
+about in proportion to my fondness for _books_. Examine, gentlemen, and try
+your fortunes."
+
+I scarcely needed such a rhetorical incitement: but alas! the treasures of
+M. Pluquet were not of a nature quite to make one's fortune. I contrived,
+with great difficulty, to pick out something of a _recherche_ kind; and
+expended a napoleon upon some scarce little grammatical tracts, chiefly
+Greek, printed by Stephen at Paris, and by Hervagius at Basil: among the
+latter was the _Bellum grammaticale_ of E. Hessus. M. Pluquet wondered at
+my rejecting the folios, and sticking so closely to the duodecimos; but had
+he shewn me a good _Verard Romance_ or a _Eustace Froissart_, he would have
+found me as alert in running away with the one as the other. I think he is
+really the most enthusiastic book-lover I have ever seen: certainly as a
+Bibliopolist. We concluded a very animated conversation on all sides: and
+upon the whole, this was one of the most variously and satisfactorily spent
+days of my "voyage bibliographique."
+
+On the morrow, the mysterious and amiable M. ---- was with me betimes. He
+said he had brought a _basket of books_, from his hermitage, which he had
+left at a friend's house, and he entreated me to come and examine them. In
+the mean while, I had had not only a peep at the Tapestry, but an
+introduction to the mayor, who is chief magistrate for life: a very Caesar
+in miniature. He received me stiffly, and appeared at first rather a
+priggish sort of a gentleman; observing that "my countryman, Mr.
+STOTHARD,[143] had been already there for six months, upon the same errand,
+and what could I want further?" A short reply served to convince him "that
+it would be no abuse of an extended indulgence if he would allow another
+English artist to make a fac-simile of a different description, from a very
+small portion only."[144]
+
+I now called upon the Abbe Fetit, with a view to gain admission to the
+_Chapter Library_, but he was from home--dining with the Bishop. In
+consequence, I went to the palace, and wrote a note in pencil to the Bishop
+at the porter's lodge, mentioning the name of M. Lair, and the object of my
+visit. The porter observed that they had just sat down to dinner--but would
+I call at three? It seemed an age to that hour; but at length three o'clock
+came, and I was punctual to the minute. I was immediately admitted into the
+premises, and even the large mastiff seemed to know that I was not an
+unexpected visitor--for he neither growled, nor betrayed any symptoms of
+uneasiness. In my way to the audience chamber I saw the crosier and robes
+which the Bishop had worn the preceding day, at the ceremony of ordination,
+lying picturesquely upon the table. The audience chamber was rather
+elegant, adorned with Gobeleins tapestry, quite fresh, and tolerably
+expressive: and while my eyes were fastened upon two figures enacting the
+parts of an Arcadian shepherd and shepherdess, a servant came in and
+announced the approach of MONSEIGNEUR l'EVEQUE. I rose in a trice to meet
+him, between doubt and apprehension as to the result. The Bishop entered
+with a sort of body-guard; being surrounded by six or seven canons who had
+been dining with him, and who peeped at me over his shoulder in a very
+significant manner. The flush of good cheer was visible in their
+countenances--but for their Diocesan, I must say that he is even more
+interesting on a familiar view. He wore a close purple dress, buttoned down
+the middle from top to bottom. A cross hung upon his breast. His
+countenance had lost nothing of its expression by the absence of the mitre,
+and he was gracious even to loquacity. I am willing to hope that I was
+equally prudent and brief in the specification of the object I had in view.
+My request was as promptly as it was courteously granted. "You will excuse
+my attending you in person; (said the Bishop) but I will instantly send for
+the Abbe Fetit, who is our librarian; and who will have nothing to do but
+to wait upon you, and facilitate your researches." He then dispatched a
+messenger for the Abbe Fetit, who quickly arrived with two more trotting
+after him--and enlivened by the jingling music of the library keys, which
+were dangling from the Abbe's fingers, I quickened my steps towards the
+Chapter Library.
+
+We were no sooner fairly within the library, than I requested my chief
+conductor to give me a brief outline of its history. "Willingly" he
+replied. "This library, the remains of a magnificent collection, of from
+30, to 40,000 volumes, was originally placed in the Chapter-house, hard by.
+Look through the window to your left, and you will observe the ruins of
+that building. We have here about 5000 volumes: but the original collection
+consisted of the united libraries of defunct, and even of living,
+clergymen--for, during the revolution, the clergy, residing both in town
+and country, conveyed their libraries to the Chapter-house, as a protection
+against private pillage. Well! in that same Chapter-house, the books, thus
+collected, were piled one upon another, in layers, flat upon the
+floor--reaching absolutely, to the cieling ... and for ten long years not a
+creature ventured to introduce a key into the library door. The windows
+also were rigidly kept shut. At length the Revolutionists wanted lead for
+musket balls, and they unroofed the chapter-house with their usual
+dexterity. Down came the rain upon the poor books, in consequence; and when
+M. Moysant received the orders of government to examine this library, and
+to take away as many books as he wanted for the public library at Caen...
+he was absolutely horror-struck by the obstacles which presented
+themselves. From the close confinement of every door and window, for ten
+years, the rank and fetid odour which issued, was intolerable. For a full
+fortnight every door and window was left open for ventilation, ere M.
+Moysant could begin his work of selection. He selected about 5000 volumes
+only; but the infuriated Revolutionists, on his departure, wantonly
+plundered and destroyed a prodigious number of the remainder ... "et enfin
+(concluded he) vous voyez, Monsieur, ce qu'ils nous out laisse." You will
+give me credit for having listened to every word of such a tale.
+
+The present library, which is on the first floor, is apparently about
+twenty-five feet square. The Abbe made me observe the XIIIth. volume of the
+_Gallia Christiana_,[145] in boards, remarking that "it was of excessive
+rarity;" but I doubt this. On shewing me the famous volume of _Sanctius_ or
+_Sanches de Matrimonio Sacramentario_, 1607, folio, the Abbe
+observed--"that the author wrote it, standing with his bare feet upon
+marble." I was well pleased with a pretty _illuminated ms. Missal_, in a
+large thick quarto volume, with borders and pictures in good condition; but
+did not fail to commend right heartily the proper bibliomaniacal spirit of
+M. Fetit in having kept concealed the second volume of _Gering's Latin
+Bible_--being the first impression of the sacred text in France--when M.
+Moysant came armed with full powers to carry off what treasures he pleased.
+No one knows what has become of the first volume, but this second is
+cruelly imperfect--it is otherwise a fair copy. Upon the whole, although it
+is almost a matter of _conscience_, as well as of character, with me, to
+examine every thing in the shape of a library, and especially of a public
+one, yet it must be admitted that the collection under consideration is
+hardly worthy of a second visit: and accordingly I took both a first and a
+final view of it.
+
+From the Chapter I went to the COLLEGE LIBRARY. In other words, there is a
+fine public school, or Lycee, or college, where a great number of lads and
+young men are educated "according to art." The building is extensive and
+well-situated: the play-ground is large and commodious; and there is a
+well-cultivated garden "tempting with forbidden fruit." Into this garden I
+strolled in search of the President of the College, who was not within
+doors. I found him in company with some of the masters, and with several
+young men either playing, or about to play, at skittles. On communicating
+the object of my visit, he granted me an immediate passport to the
+library--"mais, Monsieur, (added he) ce n'est rien: il y avoit autrefois
+_quelque chose_: maintenant, ce n'est qu'un amas de livres tres
+communs." I thanked him, and accompanied the librarian to the Library;
+who absolutely apologized all the way for the little entertainment I
+should receive. There was indeed little enough. The room may be about
+eighteen feet square. Of the books, a great portion was in vellum
+bindings, in wretched condition. Here was _Jay's Polyglot_, and the
+matrimonial _Sanctius_ again! There was a very respectable sprinkling of
+_Spanish and French Dictionaries_; some few not wholly undesirable
+_Alduses_; and the rare Louvain edition of _Sir Thomas More's Works_,
+printed in 1566, folio.[146] I saw too, with horror-mingled regret, a
+frightfully imperfect copy of the _Service of Bayeux Cathedral_, printed
+in the Gothic letter, UPON VELLUM. But the great curiosity is a small
+brass or bronze crucifix, about nine inches high, standing upon the
+mantlepiece; very ancient, from the character of the crown, which
+savours of the latter period of Roman art--and which is the only crown,
+bereft of thorns, that I ever saw upon the head of our Saviour so
+represented. The eyes appear to be formed of a bright brown glass. Upon
+the whole, as this is not a book, nor a fragment of an old illumination,
+I will say nothing more about its age. I was scarcely three quarters of
+an hour in the library; but was fully sensible of the politeness of my
+attendant, and of the truth of his prediction, that I should receive
+little entertainment from an examination of the books.
+
+It is high time that you should be introduced in proper form to the famous
+BAYEUX TAPESTRY. Know then, in as few words as possible, that this
+celebrated piece of Tapestry represents chiefly the INVASION OF ENGLAND by
+WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, and the subsequent death of Harold at the battle of
+Hastings. It measures about 214 English feet in length, by about nineteen
+inches in width; and is supposed to have been worked under the particular
+superintendance and direction of Matilda, the wife of the Conqueror. It was
+formerly exclusively kept and exhibited in the Cathedral; but it is now
+justly retained in the Town Hall, and treasured as the most precious relic
+among the archives of the city. There is indeed every reason to consider it
+as one of the most valuable historical monuments which France possesses. It
+has also given rise to a great deal of archaeological discussion.
+Montfaucon, Ducarel, and De La Rue, have come forward successively--but
+more especially the first and last: and Montfaucon in particular has
+favoured the world with copper-plate representations of the whole.
+Montfaucon's plates are generally much too small: and the more enlarged
+ones are too ornamental. It is right, first of all, that you should have an
+idea how this piece of tapestry is preserved, or rolled up. You see it
+here, therefore, precisely as it appears after the person who shews it,
+takes off the cloth with which it is usually covered.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first portion of the needle-work, representing the embassy of Harold,
+from Edward the Confessor to William Duke of Normandy, is comparatively
+much defaced--that is to say, the stitches are worn away, and little more
+than the ground, or fine close linen cloth, remains. It is not far from the
+beginning--and where the colour is fresh, and the stitches are,
+comparatively, preserved--that you observe the PORTRAIT OF HAROLD.[147]
+
+You are to understand that the stitches, if they may be so called, are
+threads laid side by side--and bound down at intervals by cross stitches,
+or fastenings--upon rather a fine linen cloth; and that the parts intended
+to represent _flesh_ are left untouched by the needle. I obtained a few
+straggling shreds of the _worsted_ with which it is Worked. The colours are
+generally a faded or bluish green, crimson, and pink. About the last five
+feet of this extraordinary roll are in a yet more decayed and imperfect
+state than the first portion. But the designer of the subject, whoever he
+was, had an eye throughout to Roman art--as it appeared in its later
+stages. The folds of the draperies, and the proportions of the figures, are
+executed with this feeling.
+
+I must observe that, both at top and at bottom of the principal subject,
+there is a running allegorical ornament;[148] of which I will not incur the
+presumption to suppose myself a successful interpreter. The constellations,
+and the symbols of agriculture and of rural occupation, form the chief
+subjects of this running ornament. All the inscriptions are executed in
+capital letters of about an inch in length; and upon the whole, whether
+this extraordinary and invaluable relic be of the latter end of the XIth,
+or of the beginning or middle of the XIIth century[149] seems to me a
+matter of rather a secondary consideration. That it is at once _unique_ and
+important, must be considered as a position to be neither doubted nor
+denied, I have learnt, even here, of what importance this tapestry-roll was
+considered in the time of Bonaparte's threatened invasion of our country:
+and that, after displaying it at Paris for two or three months, to awaken
+the curiosity and excite the love of conquest among the citizens, it was
+conveyed to one or two _sea-port_ towns, and exhibited upon the stage as a
+most important _materiel_ in dramatic effect.[150]
+
+I think you have now had a pretty good share of Bayeux intelligence; only
+that I ought not to close my despatches without a word or two relating to
+habits, manners, trade, and population. This will scarcely occupy a page.
+The men and women here are thoroughly Norman. Stout bodies, plump
+countenances, wooden shoes, and the cauchoise--even to exceedingly _tall
+copies_ of the latter! The population may run hard upon ten thousand. The
+chief articles of commerce are _butter_ and _lace_. Of the former, there
+are two sorts: one, delicate and well flavoured, is made during winter and
+spring; put up into small pots, and carried from hence in huge paniers, not
+only to all the immediately adjacent parts of the country, but even to
+Paris--and is shipped in large quantities for the colonies. They have made
+as much as 120,000 lb. weight each season; but _Isigny_, a neighbouring
+village, is rather the chief place for its production. The other sort of
+butter, which is eaten by the common people, and which in fact is made
+throughout the whole of Lower Normandy, (the very butter, in short, in
+which the huge _alose_ was floating in the pot of the lively cuisiniere at
+Duclair[151]) is also chiefly made at Isigny; but instead of a delicate
+tint, and a fine flavour, it is very much the contrary: and the mode of
+making and transporting it accords with its qualities. It is salted, and
+packed in large pots, and even barrels, for the sake of exportation; and
+not less than 50,000 lb. weight is made each week. The whole profit arising
+from butter has been estimated at not less than two millions of francs: add
+to which, the circulation of specie kept up by the payment of the workmen,
+and the purchase of salt. As to _lace_, there are scarcely fewer than three
+thousand females constantly employed in the manufacture of that article.
+
+The mechanics here, at least some of them, are equally civil and ingenious.
+In a shop, in the high or principal street, I saw an active carpenter, who
+had lost the fore finger of his right hand, hard at work--alternately
+whistling and singing--over a pretty piece of ornamental furniture in wood.
+It was the full face of a female, with closely curled hair over the
+forehead, surmounted by a wreath of flowers, having side curls, necklace,
+and platted hair. The whole was carved in beech, and the form and
+expression of the countenance were equally correct and pleasing. This merry
+fellow had a man or two under him, but he worked double tides, compared
+with his dependants. I interrupted him singing a French air, perfectly
+characteristic of the taste of his country. The title and song were thus:
+
+  TOU JOURS.
+
+  TOUJOURS, toujours, je te serai fidele;
+  Disait Adolphe a chaque instant du jour;
+  Toujours, toujours je t'aimerai, ma belle,
+  Je veux le dire aux echos d'alentour;
+  Je graverai sur l'ecorce d'un hetre,
+  Ce doux serment que le dieu des amours,
+  Vient me dieter, en me faisant connaitre;
+  Que mon bonheur est de t'aimer toujours. _Bis_.
+
+  Toujours, toujours, lui repondit Adele,
+  Tu regneras dans le fond de mon coeur;
+  Toujours, toujours, comme une tourterelle,
+  Je promets bien t'aimer avec ardeur;
+  Je pense a toi quand le soleil se leve,
+  J'y pense encore a la tin de son cours;
+  Dans le sommeil si quelquefois je reve,
+  C'est au bonheur de te cherir toujours.
+
+He was a carver on wainscoat wood: and if I would give myself "la peine
+d'entrer," he would shew me all sorts of curiosities. I secured a
+favourable reception, by purchasing the little ornament upon which he was
+at work--for a napoleon. I followed the nimble mechanic (ci-devant a
+soldier in Bonaparte's campaigns, from whence he dated the loss of his
+finger) through a variety of intricate passages below and up stairs; and
+saw, above, several excellently well finished pieces of furniture, for
+drawers or clothes-presses, in wainscoat wood:--the outsides of which were
+carved sometimes with clustered roses, surrounding a pair of fond doves; or
+with representations of Cupids, sheep, bows and arrows, and the various
+_emblemata_ of the tender passion. They would have reminded you of the old
+pieces of furniture which you found in your grandfather's mansion, upon
+taking possession of your estate: and indeed are of themselves no
+despicable ornaments in their way. I was asked from eight to twelve
+napoleons for one of these pieces of massive and elaborately carved
+furniture, some six or seven feet in height.
+
+In all other respects, this is a town deserving of greater antiquarian
+research than appears to have been bestowed upon it; and I cannot help
+thinking that its ancient ecclesiastical history is more interesting than
+is generally imagined. In former days the discipline and influence of its
+See seem to have been felt and acknowledged throughout nearly the whole of
+Normandy. Adieu. In imagination, the spires of COUTANCES CATHEDRAL begin to
+peep in the horizon.
+
+
+[141] [Mr. Cotman has an excellent engraving of it.]
+
+[142] He has since established himself at Paris, near the Luxembourg
+    palace, as a _bookseller_; and it is scarcely three months since
+    I received a letter from him, in which he told me that he could no
+    longer resist the more powerful impulses of his heart--and that the
+    phials of physic were at length abandoned for the volumes of Verard
+    and of Gourmont. My friend, Mr. Dawson Turner, who knew him at Bayeux,
+    has purchased books of him at Paris. [The preceding in 1820.]
+
+[143] Mr. Stothard, Jun. See page 221 ante. Mr. S's own account of the
+    tapestry may be seen in the XIXth volume of the Archaeologia. It is
+    brief, perspicuous, and satisfactory. His fac-simile is one half the
+    size of the original; executed with great neatness and fidelity; but
+    probably the touches are a _little_ too artist-like or masterly.
+
+[144] [The facsimile of that portion of the tapestry which is supposed to
+    be a portrait of Harold, and which Mr. Lewis, who travelled with me,
+    executed, is perhaps of its kind, one of the most perfect things
+    extant. In saying this, I only deliver the opinions of very many
+    competent judges. It must however be noticed, that the Society of
+    Antiquaries published the whole series of this exceedingly curious and
+    ancient Representation of the Conquest of our Country by William I. Of
+    this publication, the figures measure about four inches in height: but
+    there is also a complete, and exceedingly successful fac-simile of the
+    first two figures of this series--of the size of the originals
+    (William I. and the Messenger coming to announce to him the landing of
+    Harold in England) also published from the same quarter. The whole of
+    these Drawings were from the pencil of the late ingenious and justly
+    lamented THOS. STOTHARD, Esq. Draftsman to the Society of
+    Antiquaries.]
+
+[145] A complete copy is of rarity in our own country, but not so abroad.
+    It is yet, however, an imperfect work.
+
+[146] There have been bibliographers, and there are yet knowing
+    book-collectors, who covet this edition in preference to the Leipsic
+    impression of Sir T. More's Works of 1698; in folio. But this must
+    proceed from sheer obstinacy; or rather, perhaps, from ignorance that
+    the latter edition contains the _Utopia_--whereas in the former it is
+    unaccountably omitted to be reprinted--which it might have been, from
+    various previous editions.
+
+[147] This figure is introduced with pursuivants and dogs: but great
+    liberties, as a nice eye will readily discern, have been taken by
+    Montfaucon, when compared with the original--of which the fac-simile,
+    in the previous edition of this work, may be pronounced to be PERFECT.
+
+[148] Something similar may be seen round the border of the baptismal vase
+    of St. Louis, in Millin's _Antiquites Nationales_. A part of the
+    border in the Tapestry is a representation of subjects from Aesop's
+    Fables.
+
+[149] Of a monument, which has been pronounced by one of our ablest
+    antiquaries to be "THE NOBLEST IN THE WORLD RELATING TO OUR OLD
+    ENGLISH HISTORY," (See _Stukely's Palaeog. Britan._ Number XI.
+    1746, 4to. p. 2-3) it may be expected that some archaeological
+    discussion should be here subjoined. Yet I am free to confess that,
+    after the essays of Messrs. Gurney, Stothard, and Amyot, (and more
+    especially that of the latter gentleman) the matter--as to the period
+    of its execution--may be considered as well nigh, if not wholly, at
+    rest. These essays appear in the XVIIIth and XIXth volumes of the
+    Archaeologia. The Abbe de la Rue contended that this Tapestry was
+    worked in the time of the second Matilda, or the Empress Maud, which
+    would bring it to the earlier part of the XIIth century. The
+    antiquaries above mentioned contend, with greater probability, that it
+    is a performance of the period which it professes to commemorate;
+    namely, of the defeat of Harold at the battle of Hastings, and
+    consequently of the acquiring of the Crown of England, by conquest, on
+    the part of William. This latter therefore brings it to the period of
+    about 1066, to 1088--so that, after all, the difference of opinion is
+    only whether this Tapestry be fifty years older or younger, than the
+    respective advocates contend.
+
+    But the most copious, particular, and in my humble judgment the most
+    satisfactory, disquisition upon the date of this singular historical
+    monument, is entitled, "_A Defence of the early Antiquity of the
+    Bayeux Tapestry_," by Thomas Amyot, Esq. immediately following Mr.
+    Stothard's communication, in the work just referred to. It is at
+    direct issue with all the hypotheses of the Abbe de la Rue, and in my
+    opinion the results are triumphantly established. Whether the
+    _Normans_ or the _English_ worked it, is perfectly a secondary
+    consideration. The chief objections, taken by the Abbe, against its
+    being a production of the XIth century, consist in, first, its not
+    being mentioned among the treasures possessed by the Conqueror at his
+    decease:--secondly, that, if the Tapestry were deposited in the
+    church, it must have suffered, if not have been annihilated, at the
+    storming of Bayeux and the destruction of the Cathedral by fire in the
+    reign of Henry I., A.D. 1106:--thirdly, the silence of _Wace_ upon the
+    subject,--who wrote his metrical histories nearly a century after the
+    Tapestry is supposed to have been executed." The latter is chiefly
+    insisted upon by the learned Abbe; who, which ever champion come off
+    victorious in this archaeological warfare, must at any rate receive the
+    best thanks of the antiquary for the methodical and erudite manner in
+    which he has conducted his attacks.
+
+    At the first blush it cannot fail to strike us that the Abbe de la
+    Rue's positions are all of a _negative_ character; and that,
+    according to the strict rules of logic, it must not be admitted, that
+    because such and such writers have _not_ noticed a circumstance,
+    therefore that circumstance or event cannot have taken place. The
+    first two grounds of objection have, I think, been fairly set aside by
+    Mr. Amyot. As to the third objection, Mr. A. remarks--"But it seems
+    that Wace has not only _not_ quoted the tapestry, but has varied
+    from it in a manner which proves that he had never seen it. The
+    instances given of this variation are, however, a little unfortunate.
+    The first of them is very unimportant, for the difference merely
+    consists in placing a figure at the _stern_ instead of the
+    _prow_ of a ship, and in giving him a bow instead of a trumpet.
+    From an authority quoted by the Abbe himself, it appears that, with
+    regard to this latter fact, the Tapestry was right, and Wace was
+    wrong; and thus an argument is unintentionally furnished in favour of
+    the superior antiquity of the Tapestry. The second instance of
+    variation, namely, that relating to Taillefer's sword, may be easily
+    dismissed; since, after all, it now appears, from Mr. Stothard's
+    examination, that neither Taillefer nor his sword is to be found in
+    the Tapestry," &c. But it is chiefly from the names of AELFGYVA and
+    WADARD, inscribed over some of the figures, that I apprehend the
+    conclusion in favour of the Tapestry's being nearly a contemporaneous
+    production, may be safely drawn.
+
+    It is quite clear that these names belong to persons living when the
+    work was in progress, or within the recollection of the workers, and
+    that they were attached to persons of some particular note or
+    celebrity, or rather perhaps of _local_ importance. An
+    eyewitness, or a contemporary only would have introduced them. They
+    would not have lived in the memory of a person, whether mechanic or
+    historian, who lived a _century_ after the event. No antiquary
+    has yet fairly appropriated these names, and more especially the
+    second. It follows therefore that they would not have been introduced
+    had they not been in existence at the time; and in confirmation of
+    that of WADARD, it seems that Mr. Henry Ellis (Secretary of the
+    Society of Antiquaries) "confirmed Mr. Amyot's conjecture on that
+    subject, by the references with which he furnished him to _Domesday
+    Book_, where his name occurs in no less than six counties, as
+    holding lands of large extent under _Odo_, Bishop of Bayeux, the
+    tenant in capite of those properties from the crown. That he was not a
+    _guard_ or _centinel,_ as the Abbe de la Rue supposes, but
+    that he held an _office of rank_ in the household of either
+    William or Odo, seems now decided beyond a doubt." Mr. Amyot thus
+    spiritedly concludes:--alluding to the successful completion of Mr.
+    Stothard's copy of the entire original roll.--"Yet if the BAYEUX
+    TAPESTRY be not history of the first class, it is perhaps something
+    better. It exhibits general traits, elsewhere sought in vain, of the
+    costume and manners of that age, which, of all others, if we except
+    the period of the Reformation, ought to be the most interesting to
+    us;--that age, which gave us a new race of monarchs, bringing with
+    them new landholders, new laws, and almost a new language."
+
+    Mr. Amyot has subjoined a specimen of his own poetical powers in
+    describing "the Minstrel TAILLEFER'S achievements," in the battle of
+    Hastings, from the old Norman lays of GAIMAR and WACE. I can only find
+    room for the first few verses. The poem is entitled,
+
+      THE ONSET OF TAILLEFER.
+
+      Foremost in the bands of France,
+      Arm'd with hauberk and with lance,
+      And helmet glittering in the air,
+      As if a warrior knight he were,
+      Rush'd forth the MINSTREL TAILLEFER
+      Borne on his courser swift and strong,
+        He gaily bounded o'er the plain,
+      And raised the heart-inspiring song
+      (Loud echoed by the warlike throng)
+        Of _Roland_ and of _Charlemagne_,
+      Of _Oliver_, brave peer of old,
+        Untaught to fly, unknown to yield,
+      And many a Knight and Vassal bold,
+      Whose hallowed blood, in crimson flood,
+        Dyed _Roncevalle's_ field.
+
+[150] M. Denon told me, in one of my visits to him at Paris, that by the
+    commands of Bonaparte, he was charged with the custody of this
+    Tapestry for three months; that it was displayed in due form and
+    ceremony in the Museum; and that after having taken a hasty sketch of
+    it, (which he admitted could not be considered as very faithful) he
+    returned it to Bayeux--as it was considered to be the peculiar
+    property of that place.
+
+[151] See p. 109 ante.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. ST. LO. THE CATHEDRAL OF COUTANCES. ENVIRONS.
+AQUEDUCT. MARKET-DAY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE CLERGY.
+
+
+I send you this despatch close to the very Cathedral, whose spires, while
+yet at Bayeux, were already glimmering in the horizon of my imagination.
+The journey hither has been in every respect the most beautiful and
+interesting that I have experienced on _this_ side the Seine. I have seen
+something like undulating pasture-lands, wooded hills, meandering streams,
+and well-peopled villages; and an air of gaiety and cheerfulness, as well
+as the charm of picturesque beauty, has accompanied me from one cathedral
+to the other.
+
+I left the _Hotel de Luxembourg_, at Bayeux, in a hired cabriolet with a
+pair of horses, about five in the afternoon, pushing on, at a smart trot,
+for ST. LO: which latter place I entered by moon-light. The road, as usual,
+was broad and bold, and at times undulating; flanked by beech, elm, and
+fir. As I just observed to you, I entered St. Lo by moon-light: the double
+towers of the great cathedral-like looking church having a grand and even
+romantic effect on approaching the town. An old castle, or rather a mere
+round-tower relic of one, appeared to the left, upon entering it. Passing
+the porch, or west end of the church, sometimes descending, at others
+ascending--midst close streets and overhanging roofs of houses, which cast
+a deep and solemn shadow, so as to shut out the moon beams for several
+hundred yards--and pursuing a winding route, I at length stopped at the
+door of the principal hotel--_au Grand Coq!_ I laughed heartily when I
+heard its name; for with the strictest adherence to truth the adjective
+ought to have been _petit!_
+
+However, the beds seemed to be in good order, and the coffee, with which I
+was quickly served, proved to be excellent. I strolled out, on a
+_reconnoissance_, about half-past nine; but owing to the deep shadows from
+the moon, arising from the narrowness of the streets, I could make out
+nothing satisfactory of the locale. The church, however, promised a rich
+treat on the morrow. As soon as the morrow came, I betook myself to the
+church. It was Sunday morning. The square, before the west front of the
+church, was the rendezvous both of townsmen and countryfolks: but what was
+my astonishment on observing in one corner of it, a quack doctor vending
+powder for the effectual _polishing of metals_. He had just beaten his
+drum, in order to collect his audience; and having got a good assemblage,
+was full of the virtues of his wares--which were pronounced to be also
+"equally efficacious for _complaints in the stomach!_"
+
+This man had been preceded, in the situation which he occupied, by a rival
+charlatan, on horseback, with _powders to kill rats_. The latter stood upon
+the same eminence, wearing a hat, jacket, and trowsers, all white--upon
+which were painted _black rats_ of every size and description; and in his
+harangue to the populace he took care to tell them that the rats, painted
+upon his dress, were _exact portraits_ of those which had been destroyed by
+means of his powders! This, too, on a Sunday morning. But remember
+Dieppe.[152]
+
+Having despatched my breakfast, I proceeded to survey the church, from
+which the town takes its name. First, for the exterior. The _attached_
+towers demand attention and admiration. They are so slightly attached as to
+be almost separated from the body or nave; forming something of that
+particular character which obtains more decidedly at the cathedral of
+Coutances. I am not sure whether this portion of the church at St. Lo be
+not preferable, on the score of regularity and delicacy, to the similar
+portion at this latter place. The west front is indeed its chief beauty of
+exterior attraction; and it was once rendered doubly interesting by a
+profusion of alto-rilievo statues, which _disappeared_ during the
+commotions of the revolution. You ascend rather a lofty flight of steps to
+this entrance; and into which the whole town seemed to be pouring the full
+tide of its population. I suffered myself to be carried away along, with
+the rest, and almost startled as I entered the nave.[153] To the left, is a
+horribly-painted statue of the Virgin, with the child in her arms. The
+countenance is even as ugly, old, and repulsive, as the colouring is most
+despicable. I never saw such a daub: and what emotions, connected with
+tenderness of feeling, or ardour of devotion, can the contemplation of such
+an object excite? Surely the parish must have lost its wits, as well as its
+taste, to endure such a monstrous exhibition of art.
+
+As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial notice of the very
+singular, and in my opinion very ugly, formation both of the pillars and
+arches which sustain the roof. These pillars have _no capitals_, and the
+arch springs from them in the most abrupt manner. The arch itself is also
+very short and sharp pointed; like the tops of lancet windows. This mode
+obtains pretty generally here; but it should be noted that, in the right
+side aisle, the pillars have capitals. There is something unusual also in
+the row of pillars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way between
+the walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church. Nor am I sure
+that, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such massive perpendicular
+lines have either meaning or effect. Whether St. Lo were the _first_ church
+upon which the architect, who built both _that_ and the cathedral at
+_Coutances_, tried his talents--or whether, indeed, both churches be the
+effort of the same hand--I cannot pretend to determine; but, both outwardly
+and inwardly, these two churches have a strong resemblance to each other.
+Like many other similar buildings in France, the church of St. Lo is
+closely blocked up by surrounding houses.
+
+I prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a large heavy
+machine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct me to this place. There
+are some curious old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments like
+those of the XVIth century, in our own country. But on quitting the town,
+in the road to Coutances,--after you come to what are called the old castle
+walls, on passing the outer gate--your eye is struck by rather an
+extraordinary combination of objects. The town itself seems to be built
+upon a rock. Above, below, every thing appears like huge scales of iron;
+while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful and
+fruitful river _Aure_.[154] The country immediately around abounds in
+verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights. Upon the whole, our sortie
+from St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a meridian sun, was extremely
+cheerful and gratifying.
+
+A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon convinced me of the
+uncomfortableness of the conveyance; which, though roomy, and of rather
+respectable appearance, wanted springs: but the increasing beauty of the
+country, kept my attention perfectly occupied, till the beautiful
+cathedral, of COUTANCES caught my notice, on an elevated ground, to the
+left. The situation is truly striking, gaze from what quarter you will.
+From that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is rendered very
+interesting from the broad _route royale_, lined with birch, hazel, and
+beech. The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers of
+the cathedral, struck me as singularly picturesque; while the whole
+landscape was warmed by the full effulgence of an unclouded sun, and
+animated by the increasing numbers and activity of the _paysannes_ and
+_bourgeoises_ mingling in their sabbath-walks. Their bright dark _blues_
+and _crimsons_ were put on upon the occasion; and nought but peace,
+tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all sides. It was a
+scene wherein you might have placed Arcadian shepherds--worthy of being
+copied-by the pencil of Claude.
+
+We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postilion, flourishing his whip,
+and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal street, upon an
+ascent, drove to the chief inn, the _Hotel d'Angleterre_, within about one
+hundred yards of the cathedral. Vespers were just over; and I shall not
+readily forget the rush and swarm of the clergy who were pouring out, from
+the north door, and covering the street with one extensive black mass.
+There could not have been fewer than two hundred young Ecclesiastics--thus
+returning from vespers to their respective homes; or rather to the College,
+or great clerical establishment, in the neighbourhood. This College, which
+has suffered from violence and neglect, through the revolution and
+Bonaparte's dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a very
+distinguished and commanding manner. It was a singular sight--to see such a
+crowd of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands with
+white edging! The women were all out in the streets; sitting before their
+doors, or quietly lounging or walking. The afternoon was indeed unusually
+serene.
+
+I ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathedral. It was impossible
+to visit it at a more favorable moment. The congregation had departed; and
+a fine warm sun darted its rays in every surrounding direction. As I looked
+around, I could not fail to be struck with the singular arrangement of the
+columns round the choir: or rather of the double aisle between the choir
+and the walls, as at St. Lo; but here yet more distinctly marked. For a
+wonder, an _unpainted_ Virgin and child in Our Lady's chapel, behind the
+choir! There is nothing, I think, in the interior of this church that
+merits particular notice and commendation, except it be some
+beautifully-stained glass windows; with the arms, however, of certain noble
+families, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux) obliterated. There is a deep
+well in the north transept, to supply the town with water in case of fire.
+The pulpit is large and handsome; but not so magnificent as that at Bayeux.
+The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps the thirteenth century is a
+period sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the interior of
+this church, for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abbe de la
+Rue, that this edifice was probably erected by Tancred King of Sicily at
+the end of the eleventh, or at the beginning of the twelfth century.
+
+The exterior of this Church is indeed its chief attraction.[155]
+Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does not, as
+far as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. My great object was to
+mount upon the roof of the central tower, which is octagonal, containing
+fine lofty lancet windows, and commanding from its summit a magnificent
+panorama. Another story, one half the height of the present erection from
+the roof of the nave, would put a glorious finish to the central tower of
+NOTRE DAME at COUTANCES. As I ascended this central tower, I digressed
+occasionally into the lateral galleries along the aisles. To look down, was
+somewhat terrific; but who could help bewailing the wretched, rotten,
+green-tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle?--which arose here,
+as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead (during the Revolution)
+to make _bullets_--and from the rain's penetrating the interior in
+consequence. As I continued to ascend, I looked through the apertures to
+notice the fine formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windows
+of the western towers: and the higher I mounted, the more beautiful and
+magical seemed to be that portion of the building. At length I reached the
+summit; and concentrating myself a little, gazed around.
+
+The view was lovely beyond measure. Coutances lies within four miles of the
+sea, so that to the west and south there appeared an immense expanse of
+ocean. On the opposite points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded,
+undulating, rich, and thickly studded with farm-houses. _Jersey_ appeared
+to the north-west, quite encircled by the sea; and nearly to the south,
+stood out the bold insulated little rock of _Granville_, defying the
+eternal washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no where else to be
+seen in Normandy; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice with which
+I am acquainted. The sun was now declining apace, which gave a wanner glow
+to the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape. It is impossible to
+particularize. All was exquisitely refreshing and joyous. The heart beats
+with a fuller pulsation as the eye darts over such an expansive and
+exhilarating scene! Spring was now clad in her deepest-coloured vesture:
+and a prospect of a fine summer and an abundant harvest infused additional
+delight into the beholder. Immediately below, stood the insulated and
+respectable mansion or Palace of _the Bishop_; in the midst of a formal
+garden--begirt with yet more formally clipt hedges. As the Prelate bore a
+good character, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof which contained
+an inhabitant capable of administering so much good to the community. In
+short, I shall always remember the view from the top of the central tower
+of the cathedral of Coutances!
+
+I quitted such a spot with reluctance; but time was flying away, and the
+patience of the cuisinier at the Hotel d'Angleterre had already been put
+somewhat to the test. In twenty minutes I sat down to my dinner, in a
+bed-room, of which the furniture was chiefly of green silk. The females,
+even in the humblest walks, have generally fine names; and _Victorina_ was
+that of the fille de chambre at the Hotel d'Angleterre. After dinner I
+walked upon what may be called the heights of Coutances; and a more
+delightful evening's walk I never enjoyed. The women of every
+description--ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids--were all abroad;
+either sitting upon benches, or standing in gossiping groups, or straying
+in friendly pairs. The comeliness of the women was remarkable; a certain
+freshness of tint, and prevalence of the embonpoint, reminded me of those
+of our own country; and among the latter, I startled--as I gazed upon a
+countenance which afforded but too vivid a resemblance to that of a
+deceased relation! Certainly the Norman women are no where more comely and
+interesting than they are at Coutances.
+
+The immediate environs of this place are beautiful and interesting: visit
+them in what direction you please. But there is nothing which so
+immediately strikes you as the remains of an _ancient Aqueduct_; gothicised
+at the hither end, but with three or four circular arches at the further
+extremity, where it springs from the opposite banks. Fine as was yesterday,
+this day has not been inferior to it. I was of course glad of an
+opportunity of visiting the market, and of mingling with the country
+people. The boulevards afforded an opportunity of accomplishing both these
+objects. Corn is a great article of trade; and they have noble granaries
+for depositing it. Apparently there is a great conflux of people, and much
+business stirring. I quickly perceived, in the midst of this ever-moving
+throng, my old friend the vender of rat-destroying powders--busied in the
+exercise of his calling, and covered with his usual vestment of white,
+spotted or painted with black rats. He found plenty of hearers and plenty
+of purchasers. All was animation and bustle. In the midst of it, a man came
+forward to the edge of a bank--below which a great concourse was assembled.
+He beat a drum, to announce that a packet boat, would sail to Jersey in the
+course of the afternoon; but the people seemed too intent upon their
+occupations and gambols to attend to him. I sat upon a bench and read one
+of the little chap books--_Richard sans peur_--which I had purchased the
+same morning.
+
+While absorbed in reflections upon the heterogeneous scene before me--and
+wishing, for some of my dearest friends in England to be also spectators of
+it--the notes of an hand-organ more and more distinctly stole upon my ear.
+They were soft; and even pleasing notes. On looking round, I observed that
+the musician preceded a person, who carried aloft a Virgin, with the infant
+Jesus, in wax; and who, under such a sign, exhorted the multitude to
+approach and buy his book-wares. I trust I was too thorough-bred a
+_Roxburgher_ to remain quiet on the bench: and accordingly starting up, and
+extending two sous, I became the fortunate purchaser of a little _chap_
+article--of which my friend BERNARDO will for ever, I fear, envy me the
+possession! The vender of the tome sang through his nose, as the organ
+warbled the following
+
+  _Cantique Spirituelle_.
+
+  EN L'HONNEUR DU TRES-SAINT SACREMENT,
+
+  _Qui est expose dans la grande Eglise cathedrale de St. Pierre et
+  St. Paul de Rome, pour implorer la misericorde de Dieu_.
+
+  Air: du Theodore Francais.
+
+  APPROCHEZ-VOUS, Chretiens fideles,
+  Afin d'entendre reciter:
+  Ecoutez tous avec un grand zele,
+  Avec ferveur et piete,
+  Le voeu que nous avons fait,
+  D'aller au grand Saint Jacques;
+  Grace a Dieu nous l'avons accompli,
+  Pour l'amour de Jesus Christ.
+
+    Dieu crea le ciel et la terre,
+  Les astres et le firmament;
+  Il fit la brillante lumiere,
+  Ainsi que tous les autres elemens,
+  Il a tire tout du neant,
+  Ce qui respire sur la terre:
+  Rendons hommage a la grandeur
+  De notre divin Createur.
+
+  [156]Tous les jours la malice augmente, Il y a tres-peu de religion; La
+  jeunesse est trop petulante, Les enfans jurent le saint Nom. Et comment
+  s'etonneroit-on Si tant de fleaux nous tourmentent? Et si l'on voit tant
+  de malheurs, C'est Dieu qui punit les pecheurs.
+
+  Souvent on assiste a l'Office, C'est comme une maniere d'acquit, Sans
+  penser au saint Sacrifice; Ou s'est immole Jesus Christ. On parle avec
+  ses amis, De ses affaires temporelles, Sans faire aucune attention Aux
+  mysteres de la religion.
+
+  Reflechissez bien, peres et meres, Sur ces morales et verites: C'est la
+  loi de Dieu notre Pere; C'est lui qui nous les a dictees: Il faut les
+  suivre et les pratiquer, Tant que nous serons sur la terre. N'oublions
+  point qu'apres la mort, Nos ames existeront encore.
+
+The day was beginning to wear away fast, and I had not yet accomplished the
+favourite and indispensable object of visiting the PUBLIC LIBRARY. I made
+two unsuccessful attempts; but the third was fortunate. I had no letter of
+introduction, and every body was busied in receiving the visits of their
+country friends. I was much indebted to the polite attention of a stranger:
+who accompanied me to the house of the public librarian, his friend, who,
+not being at home, undertook the office of shewing me the books. The room
+in which they are contained--wholly detached--and indeed at a considerable
+distance from the cathedral--is about sixty English feet long, low, and
+rather narrow. It is absolutely crammed with books, in the most shameful
+state of confusion. I saw, for the first time in Normandy, and with
+absolute gladness of heart, a copy of the _Complutensian Polyglot Bible_;
+of which the four latter volumes, in vellum binding, were tall and good:
+the earlier ones, in calf, not so desirable. For the first time too, since
+treading Norman soil, I saw a tolerably good sprinkle of _Italian_ books.
+But the collection stands in dreadful need of weeding. Indeed, this
+observation may apply to the greater number of public collections
+throughout Normandy. I thanked my attendant for his patient and truly
+friendly attention, and took my leave.
+
+In my way homewards, I stopped at M. Joubert's, the principal bookseller,
+and "beat about the bush" for bibliographical game. But my pursuit was not
+crowned with success. M.J. told me, in reply to black-letter enquiries,
+that a Monsieur A----, a stout burly man, whom he called "un gros
+papa"--was in the habit of paying yearly visits from Jersey, for the
+acquisition of the same black-letter treasures; and that he swept away
+every thing in the shape of an ancient and _equivocal_ volume, in his
+annual rounds. I learnt pretty nearly the same thing from Manoury at Caen.
+M. Joubert is a very sensible and respectable man; and is not only "_Seul
+Imprimeur de Monseigneur l'Eveque"_ (PIERRE DUPONT-POURSAT), but is in fact
+almost the only bookseller worth consulting in the place. I bought of him a
+copy of the _Livre d'Eglise ou Nouveau Paroissien a l'usage du Diocese de
+Coutances_, or the common prayer book of the diocese. It is a very thick
+duodecimo, of 700 double columned pages, printed in a clear, new, and
+extremely legible character, upon paper of sufficiently good texture. It
+was bound in sheepskin, and I gave only _thirty sous_ for it new. How it
+can be published at such a price, is beyond my conception. M. Joubert told
+me that the compositor or workman received 20 francs for setting up 36
+pages, and that the paper was 12 francs per ream. In our own country, such
+prices would be at least doubled.
+
+It is impossible not to be struck here with the great number of YOUNG
+ECCLESIASTICS. In short, the establishment now erecting for them, will
+contain, when completed, (according to report) not fewer than four hundred.
+It is also impossible not to be struck with the extreme simplicity of their
+manners and deportment. They converse with apparent familiarity with the
+very humblest of their flock: and seem, from the highest to the lowest, to
+be cordially received. They are indifferent as to personal appearance. One
+young man carries a bundle of linen to his laundress, along the streets:
+another carries a round hat in his hand, having a cocked one upon his head:
+a kitchen utensil is seen in the hand of a third, and a chair, or small
+table, in that of a fourth. As these Clergymen pass, they are repeatedly
+saluted. Till the principal building be finished, many of them are
+scattered about the town, living quite in the upper stories. In short, it
+is the _profession_, rather than the particular candidate, which seems to
+claim the respectful attention of the townsmen.
+
+
+[152] See page 13 ante.
+
+[153] Mr. Cotman has a view of this church, in his work on Normandy.
+
+[154] I suspect that the "peaceful" waters of this stream were frequently
+    died with the blood of Hugonots and Roman Catholics during the fierce
+    contests between MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON, towards the latter half of
+    the sixteenth century. At that period St. Lo was one of the strongest
+    towns in the Bocage; and the very pass above described, was the avenue
+    by which the soldiers of the captains, just mentioned, alternately
+    advanced and retreated in their respective attacks upon St. Lo: which
+    at length surrendered to the victorious army of the _latter_; the
+    leader of the Catholics. SEGUIN: _Histoire Militaire des Bocains_; _p.
+    340-384_; 1816, _12 mo_.
+
+[155] The reader will be doubtless gratified by the artist-like view of
+    this cathedral, by Mr. Cotman, in his _Architectural Antiquities of
+    Normandy_.
+
+[156] It cannot fail to be noticed that the following sentences are in fact
+    _rhyming verse_, though printed prose-wise.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+JOURNEY TO GRANVILLE. GRANVILLE. VILLE DIEU. ST. SEVER. TOWN AND CASTLE OF
+VIRE.
+
+_Vire_.
+
+
+Since my last, I have been as much gratified by the charms of nature and of
+art, as during any one period of my tour. Prepare, therefore, for
+miscellaneous intelligence; but such as, I will make bold to predict,
+cannot fail to afford you considerable gratification. Normandy is doubtless
+a glorious country. It is fruitful in its soil, picturesque in the
+disposition of its land and water, and rich in the architectural relics of
+"the olden time." It is also more than ordinarily interesting to an
+Englishman. Here, in the very town whence I transmit this despatch--within
+two hundred and fifty yards of the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, which just
+now encloses me within its granite walls--here, I say, lived and revelled
+the illustrious family of the DE VERES.[157] Hence William the Conqueror
+took the famous AUBREY DE VERE to be a spectator of his prowess, and a
+sharer of his spoils, in his decisive subjugation of our own country. It is
+from this place that the De Veres derive their name. Their once-proud
+castle yet towers above the rushing rivulet below, which turns a hundred
+mills in its course: but the warder's horn has long ceased to be heard, and
+the ramparts are levelled with the solid rock with which they were once, as
+it were, identified.
+
+I left Coutances with something approaching to reluctance; so completely
+_anglicised_ seemed to be the scenery and inhabitants. The evening was
+beautiful in the extreme: and upon gaining the height of one of the
+opposite hills, within about half a league of the town, on the high
+Granville route, I alighted--walked, stopped, and gazed, alternately, upon
+the lovely landscape around--the cathedral, in the mean time, becoming of
+one entire golden tint from the radiance of the setting sun. It was hardly
+possible to view a more perfect picture of its kind; and it served as a
+just counterpart to the more expansive scene which I had contemplated, but
+the preceding evening, from the heights of that same cathedral. The
+conducteur of the Diligence rousing me from my rapturous abstraction, I
+remounted, and descended into a valley; and ere the succeeding height was
+gained, a fainter light floated over the distant landscape ... and every
+object reminded me of the accuracy of those exquisite lines of
+Collins--descriptive of the approach of evening's
+
+  ... gradual, dusky veil.
+
+For the first time, I had to do with a drunken conducteur. Luckily the road
+was broad, and in the finest possible condition, and perfectly well known
+to the horses. Every turning was successfully made; and the fear of
+upsetting began to give way to the annoyance experienced from the roaring
+and shouting of the conducteur. It was almost dark when I reached
+GRANVILLE--about twelve miles from Coutances; when I learnt that the horses
+had run six miles before they started with us. On entering the town, the
+road was absolutely solid rock: and considering what a _house_ we carried
+behind us (for so the body of the _diligence_ seemed) and the uncertain
+footing of the horses, in consequence of the rocky surface of the road, I
+apprehended the most sinister result. Luckily it was moon-light; when,
+approaching one of the sorriest looking inns imaginable, whither our
+conducteur (in spite of the better instructions of the landlord of the
+Hotel d'Angleterre at Coutances) had persuaded us to go, the passengers
+alighted with thankful hearts, and bespoke supper and beds.
+
+Granville is fortified on the land side by a deep ravine, which renders an
+approach from thence almost impracticable. On every other side it is
+defended by the ocean, into which the town seems to have dropt
+perpendicularly from the clouds. At high water, Granville cannot be
+approached, even by transports, nearer than within two-thirds of a league;
+and of course at low water it is surrounded by an extent of sharply pointed
+rock and chalk: impenetrable--terrific--and presenting both certain failure
+and destruction to the assailants. It is a GIBRALTAR IN MINIATURE. The
+English sharply cannonaded it a few years since, but it was only a
+political diversion. No landing was attempted. In the time of the civil
+wars, and more particularly in those of the League, Granville, however, had
+its share of misery. It is now a quiet, dull, dreary, place; to be visited
+only for the sake of the view from thence, looking towards _St. Malo_, and
+_Mont St. Michel_; the latter of which I give up--as an hopeless object of
+attainment. Granville is in fact built upon rock;[158] and the houses and
+the only two churches are entirely constructed of granite. The principal
+church (I think it was the principal) is rather pretty within, as to its
+construction; but the decidedly gloomy effect given to it by the tint of
+the _granite_--the pillars being composed of that substance--renders it
+disagreeable to the eye. I saw several confessionals; and in one of them,
+the office of confession was being performed by a priest, who attended to
+two penitents at the same time; but whose physiognomy was so repulsively
+frightful, that I could not help concluding he was listening to a tale
+which he was by no means prepared to receive.
+
+An hour's examination of the town thoroughly satisfied me. There was no
+public conveyance to _Vire_, whither I intended immediately departing, and
+so I hired a voiture to be drawn by one sturdy Norman horse. To a question
+about springs, the conducteur replied that I should find every thing "tres
+propre." Having paid the reckoning, I set my face towards VIRE. The day,
+for the season of the year, turned out to be gloomy and cold beyond
+measure: and the wind (to the east) was directly in my face. Nevertheless
+the road was one of the finest that I had seen in France, for breadth and
+general soundness of condition. It had all the characteristics, in breadth
+and straitness, of a Roman route; and as it was greatly undulating, I had
+frequently some gratifying glimpses of its bold direction. The surrounding
+country was of a quietly picturesque but fruitful aspect; and had my seat
+been comfortable, or after the fashion of those in my own country, my
+sensations had been more agreeable. But in truth, instead of _springs_, or
+any thing approximating to "tres propre," I had to encounter a _hard
+plank_, suspended at the extremities, by a piece of leather, to the sides;
+and as the road was but too well bottomed, and the conveyance was open in
+front to the bitter blast of the east, I can hardly describe (as I shall
+never forget) the misery of this conveyance.
+
+Fortunately the first stage was _Ville Dieu_. Here I ordered a voiture and
+post horses: but the master of the Poste Royale, or rather of the inn,
+shook his head--"Pour les chevaux, vous en aurez des meilleurs: mais, pour
+la voiture il n'y en a pas. Tenez, Monsieur; venez voir." I followed, with
+miserable forebodings--and entering a shed, where stood an old
+tumble-down-looking phaeton--"la voila, c'est la seule que je possede en ce
+moment"--exclaimed the landlord. It had never stirred from its position
+since the fall of last years' leaf. It had been--within and without--the
+roosting place for fowls and other of the feathered tribe in the farm yard;
+and although literally covered with the _evidences_ of such long and
+undisturbed possession, yet, as there was no appearance of rain, and as I
+discovered the wished for "_ressorts_" (or _springs_) I compromised for the
+repulsiveness of the exterior, and declared my intention of taking it
+onward. Water, brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put in
+requisition; and two stately and well fed horses, which threatened to fly
+away with this slender machine, being fastened on, I absolutely darted
+forward at a round rattling gallop for _St. Sever_. Blessings ever wait
+upon the memory of that artisan who invented ... _springs_!
+
+The postilion had the perfect command of his horses, and he galloped, or
+trotted, or ambled, as his fancy--or rather our wishes--directed. The
+approach to our halting place was rather imposing. What seemed to be a
+monastery, or church, at St. Sever, had quite the appearance of Moorish
+architecture; and indeed as I had occasional glimpses of it through the
+trees, the effect was exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is in
+truth very delightfully situated. While the horses were being changed, I
+made our way for the monastery; which I found to be in a state rather of
+dilapidation than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I entered the
+chapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a desk, to the left--a very clean,
+large paper, and uncut copy of the folio _Rouen Missal_ of 1759. Every
+thing about this deserted and decaying spot had a melancholy appearance:
+but the surrounding country was rich, wooded, and picturesque. In former
+days of prosperity--such as St. Sever had seen before the Revolution--there
+had been gaiety, abundance, and happiness. It was now a perfect contrast to
+such a state.
+
+On returning to the "_Poste Royale_" I found two fresh lusty horses to our
+voiture--but the postilion had sent a boy into the field to catch a
+_third_. Wherefore was this? The tarif exacted it. A third horse
+"reciproquement pour l'annee"--parce qu'il faut traverser une grande
+montagne avant d'arriver a Vire"--was the explanatory reply. It seemed
+perfectly ridiculous, as the vehicle was of such slender dimensions and
+weight. However, I was forced to yield. To scold the postboy was equally
+absurd and unavailing: "parce que la tarif l'exigea." But the "montagne"
+was doubtless a reason for this additional horse: and I began to imagine
+that something magnificently picturesque might be in store. The three
+horses were put a-breast, and off we started with a phaeton-like velocity!
+Certainly nothing could have a more ridiculous appearance than my pigmy
+voiture thus conveyed by three animals--strong enough to have drawn the
+diligence. I was not long in reaching this "huge mountain," which provoked
+my unqualified laughter--from its insignificant size--and upon the top of
+which stands the town of VIRE. It had been a _fair_-day; and groups of men
+and women, returning from the town, in their blue and crimson dresses,
+cheered somewhat the general gloom of the day, and lighted up the features
+of the landscape. The nearer I approached, the more numerous and incessant
+were these groups.
+
+Vire is a sort of _Rouen_ in miniature--if bustle and population be only
+considered. In architectural comparison, it is miserably feeble and
+inferior. The houses are generally built of granite, and look extremely
+sombre in consequence. The old castle is yet interesting and commanding.
+But of this presently. I drove to the "_Cheval Blanc_," and bespoke, as
+usual, a late dinner and beds. The first visit was to the _castle,_ but it
+is right that you should know, before hand, that the town of Vire, which
+contains a population of about ten thousand souls, stands upon a commanding
+eminence, in the midst of a very beautiful and picturesque country called
+the BOCAGE. This country was, in former times, as fruitful in civil wars,
+horrors, and devastations, as the more celebrated Bocage of the more
+western part of France during the late Revolution. In short, the Bocage of
+Normandy was the scene of bloodshed during the Calvinistic or Hugonot
+persecution. It was in the vicinity of this town, in the parts through
+which I have travelled--from Caen hitherwards--that the hills and the dales
+rang with the feats of arms displayed in the alternate discomfiture and
+success of COLIGNY, CONDE, MONTMOGERY, and MATIGNON.[159]
+
+But for the Castle. It is situated at the extremity of an open space,
+terminated by a portion of the boulevards; having, in the foreground, the
+public library to the left, and a sort of municipal hall to the right:
+neither of them objects of much architectural consequence. Still nearer in
+the foreground, is a fountain; whither men, women, and children--but
+chiefly the second class, in the character of _blanchisseuses_--regularly
+resort for water; as its bason is usually overflowing. It was in a lucky
+moment that Mr. Lewis paid a visit to this spot; which his ready pencil
+transmitted to his sketch-book in a manner too beautiful and faithful not
+to be followed up by a finished design. I send you a portion of this
+prettily grouped picture; premising, that the woman to the right, in the
+foreground, begged leave purposely to sit--or rather stand--for her
+portrait. The artist, in a short time, was completely surrounded by
+spectators of his graphic skill.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The "_Cheval Blanc_"--the name of the hotel at which I reside--should be
+rather called the "_Cheval Noir_;" for a more dark, dingy, and even dirty
+residence, for a traveller of any _nasal_ or _ocular_ sensibility, can be
+rarely visited. My bed room is hung with tapestry; which, for aught I know
+to the contrary, may represent the daring exploits of MONTGOMERY and
+MATIGNON: but which is so begrimed with filth that there is no decyphering
+the subjects worked upon it.
+
+On leaving the inn--and making your way to the top of the street--you turn
+to the left; but on looking down, again to the left, you observe, below
+you, the great high road leading to _Caen_, which has a noble appearance.
+Indeed, the manner in which this part of Normandy is intersected with the
+"_routes royales_" cannot fail to strike a stranger; especially as these
+roads run over hill and dale, amidst meadows, and orchards, equally
+abundant in their respective harvests. The immediate vicinity of the town
+is as remarkable for its picturesque objects of scenery as for its high
+state of cultivation; and a stroll upon the heights, in whatever part
+visited, will not fail to repay you for the certain disappointment to be
+experienced within the streets of the town. Portions of the scenery, from
+these heights, are not unlike those in Derbyshire, about Matlock. There is
+plenty of rock, of shrubs, and of fern; while another _Derwent_, less
+turbid and muddy, meanders below. Thus much for a general, but hasty sketch
+of the town of Vire. My next shall give you some detail of the _interior_
+of a few of the houses, of which I may be said to have hitherto only
+contemplated the _roofs_.
+
+And yet I must not close my despatch without performing my promise about
+the CASTLE; of which indeed (as you will see by the subjoined miniature
+view) only a sort of ruinous shell remains. Its age may be a little towards
+the end of the thirteenth century. The stone is of a deep reddish tint: and
+although what remains is only a portion of the _keep_, yet I can never
+suppose it, even in its state of original integrity, to have been of very
+capacious dimensions. Its site is most commanding.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+[157] The reader will find the fullest particulars relating to this
+    once-distinguished family, in _Halstead's Genealogical Memoirs of
+    Noble Families, &c_.: a book it is true, of extreme scarcity. In lieu
+    of it let him consult _Collin's Noble Families_.
+
+[158] [Mons. Licquet tells us, that in 1439, a Seigneur of Gratot, ceded
+    the rock of Granville to an English Nobleman, on the day of St. John
+    the Baptist, on receiving the homage of a hat of red roses. The
+    Nobleman intended to build a town there; but Henry VI. dispossessed
+    him of it, and built fortifications in 1440. Charles VII. in turn,
+    dispossessed Henry; but the additional fortifications which he built
+    were demolished by order of Louis XIV. &c.]
+
+[159] An epitomised account of these civil commotions will be found in the
+    _Histoire Militaire des Bocains, par_ M. RICHARD SEGUIN; _a
+    Vire_, 1816; 12mo. of which work, and of its author, some notice
+    will be taken in the following pages.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY. MONSIEUR ADAM. MONSIEUR DE LARENAUDIERE. OLIVIER BASSELIN. M.
+SEGUIN. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY.
+
+
+It is a sad rainy day; and having no temptation to stir abroad, I have shut
+myself up by the side of a huge wood fire--(surrounded by the dingy
+tapestry, of which my last letter did not make very honourable mention) in
+a thoroughly communicative mood--to make you acquainted with all that has
+passed since my previous despatch. Books and the Bibliomania be the chief
+"burden of my present song!" You may remember, in my account of the public
+library at Caen, that some mention was made of a certain OLIVIER
+BASSELIN--whom I designated as the DRUNKEN BARNABY _of Normandy_. Well, my
+friend--I have been at length made happy, and comforted in the extreme, by
+the possession of a copy of the _Vaudevires_ of that said Olivier
+Basselin--and from the hands, too, of one of his principal editors ...
+Monsieur Lanon de Larenaudiere, Avocat, et Maire, de Tallevende-le-Petit.
+This copy I intend (as indeed I told the donor) for the beloved library at
+Althorp. But let me tell my tale my own way.
+
+Hard by the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, (the best, bad as it is--and
+indeed the only one in the town) lives a printer of the name of ADAM. He is
+the principal, and the most respectable of his brethren in the same craft.
+After discoursing upon sundry desultory topics--and particularly examining
+the _books of Education_, among which I was both surprised and pleased to
+find the _Distichs of Muretus_[160]--I expressed my regret at having
+travelled through so many towns of Normandy without meeting with one single
+copy of the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_ for sale. "It is not very
+surprising, Sir, since it is a privately printed book, and was never
+intended for sale. The impression too is very limited. You know, Sir, that
+the book was published here--and--" "Then I begin to be confident about
+obtaining it"--replied I. "Gently, Sir;--" resumed Monsieur Adam--"it is
+not to be bought, even here. But do you know no one...?" "Not a creature."
+"Well, Sir, take courage. You are an Englishman. One of its principal
+editors--a very gallant _Bibliomaniac_--who is a great collector and lover
+of the literature of your country--(here I picked up courage and gaiety of
+heart) lives in this town. He is President of the Tribunal. Go to him."
+Seeing me hesitate, in consequence of not having a letter of
+introduction--"Ce n'est rien (said he) allez tout-droit. Il aime vos
+compatriotes; et soyez persuade de l'accueil le plus favorable." Methought
+Monsieur Adam spake more eloquently than I had yet heard a Norman
+speak.[161]
+
+In two seconds I quitted his shop, (promising to return with an account of
+my reception) and five minutes brought me into the presence of Monsieur
+Lanon de Larenaudiere, President du Tribunal, &c. It is not possible for me
+to convey to you a notion of the warmth, cordiality, and joyousness of
+heart, that marked the reception which this gentleman instantly gave me:
+and I will frankly own that I was as much "abashed" as ever our ancient
+friend Caxton had been--in the presence of his patroness the Duchess of
+Burgundy. I followed my new bibliomaniacal acquaintance rapidly up stairs;
+and witnessed, with extreme pleasure, a few bundles of books (some of them
+English) lying upon the window seats of the first landing-place; much after
+the fashion followed in a certain long, rambling, and antique residence,
+not quite three quarters of a mile from the towers of Westminster Abbey.
+
+On gaining the first floor, mine host turned the keys of the doors of two
+contiguous rooms, and exclaimed, "VOILA MA BIBLIOTHEQUE!" The air of
+conscious triumph with which these words were uttered, delighted me
+infinitely; but my delight was much increased on a leisurely survey of one
+of the prettiest, most useful, and commendable collections of books,
+chiefly in the department of the Belles-Lettres, which I had ever
+witnessed. Monsieur de Larenaudiere has a library of about 9000 volumes, of
+which _eight hundred are English_. But the owner is especially fond of
+poetical archaeology; in other words, of collecting every work which
+displays the progress of French and English poetry in the middle and
+immediately following ages; and talks of _Trouveurs_ and _Troubadours_ with
+an enthusiasm approaching to extacy. Meanwhile he points his finger to our
+Warton, Ellis, Ritson, and Southey; tells you how dearly he loves them; but
+yet leads you to conclude that he _rather_ prefers _Le Grand, Ginguene,
+Sismondi_, and _Raynouard_. Of the venerable living oracle in these
+matters, the Abbe de la Rue, he said he considered him as "un peu trop
+systematique." In short, M. de Larenaudiere has almost a complete critical
+collection, in our tongue, upon the subject of old poetry; and was most
+anxious and inquisitive about the present state of cultivation of that
+branch of literature in England: adding, that he himself meditated a work
+upon the French poetry of the XIIth and XIIIth centuries. He said he
+thought his library might be worth about 25,000 francs: nor did I consider
+such a valuation overcharged. He talks rapidly, earnestly, and incessantly;
+but he talks well: and spoke of the renown of a certain library in _St.
+James's Place_, in a manner which could not fail to quicken the pulse and
+warm the blood of its Librarian. I concluded an interview of nearly two
+hours, by his compliance with my wish to dine with me on the following day:
+although he was quite urgent in bargaining for the previous measure of my
+tasting his _potage_ and _vol au vent_. But the shortness and constant
+occupation of my time would not allow me to accede to it. M. de
+Larenaudiere then went to a cabinet-like cupboard, drew forth an uncut
+copy, stitched in blue spotted paper, of his beloved _Vaudevires_ of
+OLIVIER BASSELIN:[162] and presenting it to me, added "Conservez le, pour
+l'amour de moi." You may be assured that I received such a present in the
+most gracious manner I was capable of--but instantly and honestly
+added--"permettez qu'il soit depose dans la bibliotheque de Milord S...?
+"C'est la meme chose"--rejoined he; and giving me the address of the public
+librarian, we separated in the most cordial manner till the morrow.
+
+I posted back to Monsieur Adam, the printer and bookseller, and held aloft
+my blue-covered copy of the _Vaudevires_ as an unquestionable proof of the
+successful result of my visit to Monsieur La Renaudiere. Leaving the
+precious cargo with him, and telling him that I purposed immediately
+visiting the public library, he seemed astonished at my eagerness about
+books--and asked me if I had ever _published_ any thing _bibliographical_?
+"Car enfin, Monsieur, la pluspart des _Virois_ ne savent rien de la
+literature angloise"--concluded he ... But I had just witnessed a splendid
+exception to this sweeping clause of censure. I then sought the residence
+of the Abbe Du MORTUEUX, the public librarian. That gentleman was from
+home, at a dinner party. I obtained information of the place where he might
+be found; and considering _two_ o'clock to be rather too early an hour
+(even in France) to disturb a gentleman during the exercise of so important
+a function, I strolled in the neighbourhood of the street, where he was
+regaling, for a full hour and half: when, at the expiration of that time, I
+ventured to knock at the door of a very respectable mansion, and to enquire
+for the bibliographical Abbe. "He is here, Sir, and has just done dinner.
+May I give him your name?" "I am a stranger: an Englishman; who, on the
+recommendation of Monsieur Larenaudiere, wishes to see the public library.
+But I will call again in about an hour." "By no means: by no means: the
+Abbe will see you immediately." And forthwith appeared a very comely, tall,
+and respectable-looking gentleman, with his hair en plein costume, both as
+to form and powder. Indeed I had rarely before witnessed so prepossessing a
+figure. His salutation and address were most gracious and winning; and he
+told me that I had nothing to do but to accompany him to the place which I
+wished to visit. Without even returning to his friends, he took his
+hat--and in one minute, to my surprise, I found myself in the street with
+the Abbe de Mortueux, in the high way to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. In our way
+thither our discourse was constant and unrestrained. "You appear here;
+Monsieur l'Abbe, to be partial to literature;... but allow me first to
+congratulate you on the beautiful environs of your town." "For literature
+in general, we are pretty well disposed. In regard to the beauties of the
+immediate neighbourhood of Vire, we should be unworthy inhabitants indeed,
+if we were not sensible of them." In five minutes we reached the Library.
+
+The shutters of the room were fastened, but the worthy Abbe opened them in
+a trice; when I saw, for the first time in Normandy, what appeared to be a
+genuine, old, unmutilated, unpillaged library. The room could be scarcely
+more than twenty-two feet square. I went instantly to work, with eyes and
+hands, in the ardent hope, and almost full persuasion, of finding something
+in the shape of a good old Greek or Roman Classic, or French Chronicle, or
+Romance. But, alas, I looked, and handled the tomes in vain! The history of
+the library is this:--The founder was a Monsieur PICHON; who, on being
+taken prisoner by the English, at the capture of Louisburg in 1758, resided
+a long time in England under the name of TYRREL, and lived in circumstances
+of respectability and even of opulence. There--whether on the dispersion of
+the libraries of our Meads, Foulkes', and Rawlinsons, I know not--he made
+his collection; took his books over with him to Jersey, where he died in
+1780: and bequeathed them, about 3000 in number, to his native town of
+Vire. M. du Mortueux, who gave me these particulars, has drawn up a little
+memorial about Pichon. His portrait, executed by an English artist, (whilst
+he lived among us) adorns the library; with which I hope it will go down to
+a distant and grateful posterity. The colouring of this portrait is faded:
+but it is evident that Monsieur Pichon had an expressive and sensible
+physiognomy.
+
+Wonderful to relate, this collection of books was untouched during the
+Revolution; while the neighbouring library of the _Cordeliers_ was
+ransacked without mercy. But I regret to say that the books in the
+cupboards are getting sadly damp. Do not expect any thing very marvellous
+in the details of this collection; The old-fashioned library doors, of
+wood, are quite in character with what they protect. Among the earlier
+printed books, I saw a very bad copy of _Sweynheym and Pannartz's_ edition
+of the _De Civitate Dei_ of St. Austin, of the date of 1470; and a large
+folio of _Gering's_ impression of the _Sermons of Leonard de Utino_ printed
+about the year 1478. This latter was rather a fine book. A little
+black-letter Latin Bible by Froben, of the date of 1495, somewhat tempted
+me; but I could not resist asking, in a manner half serious and half
+jocose, whether a napoleon would not secure me the possession of a piquant
+little volume of black-letter tracts, printed by my old friend Guido
+Mercator?[163] The Abbe smiled: observing--"mon ami, on fait voir les
+livres ici; on les lit meme: mais on ne les vend pas." I felt the force of
+this pointed reply: and was resolved never again to ask an Ecclesiastic to
+part with a black-letter volume, even though it should be printed by "my
+old friend Guido Mercator."
+
+Seeing there was very little more deserving of investigation, I enquired of
+my amiable guide about the "LIBRARY OF THE CORDELIERS," of which he had
+just made mention. He told me that it consisted chiefly of canon and civil
+law, and had been literally almost destroyed: that he had contrived however
+to secure a great number of "rubbishing theological books," (so he called
+them!) which he sold for _three sous_ a piece--and with the produce of
+which he bought many excellent works for the library. I should like to have
+had the sifting of this "theological rubbish!" It remained only to thank
+the Abbe most heartily for his patient endurance of my questions and
+searches, and particularly to apologise for bringing him from his
+surrounding friends. He told me, beginning with a "soyez tranquille," that
+the matter was not worth either a thought or a syllable; and ere we quitted
+the library, he bade me observe the written entries of the numbers of
+students who came daily thither to read. There were generally (he told me)
+from fifteen to twenty "hard at it"--and I saw the names of not fewer than
+_ninety-two_ who aspired to the honour and privilege of having access to
+the BIBLIOTHECA PICHONIANA.
+
+For the third time, in the same day, I visited Monsieur Adam; to carry
+away, like a bibliomaniacal Jason, the fleece I had secured. I saw there a
+grave, stout gentleman--who saluted me on my entrance, and who was
+introduced to me by Monsieur A. by the name of SEGUIN. He had been waiting
+(he said) full three quarters of an hour to see me, and concluded by
+observing, that, although a man in business, he had aspired to the honour
+of authorship. He had written, in fact, two rather interesting--but
+wretchedly, and incorrectly printed--duodecimo volumes, relating to the
+BOCAGE,[164] in the immediate vicinity of Vire; and was himself the sole
+vender and distributer of his publications. On my expressing a wish to
+possess these books, he quitted the premises, and begged I would wait his
+return with a copy or two of them. While he was gone, M. Adam took the
+opportunity of telling me that he was a rich, respectable tradesman; but
+that, having said some severe things of the manufactures of Vire in his
+_first_ publication,[165] relating to the _civil_ history of the Bocains,
+his townsmen sharply resented what they considered as reflections thrown
+out against them; and M. Seguin was told that perhaps his personal safety
+was endangered ... He wanted not a second hint--but fled from home with
+precipitancy: and in his absence the populace suspended his effigy, and
+burnt it before the door of his house. This, however, did not _cool_ the
+ardour of authorship in M. Seguin. He set about publishing his _military_
+history of the Bocains; and in the introductory part took occasion to
+retort upon the violence of his persecutors. To return to M. Seguin. In
+about ten minutes he appeared, with two copies in his hand--which I
+purchased, I thought dearly, at five francs each volume; or a napoleon for
+the four books. After the adventures of this day, I need hardly tell you
+that I relished a substantial dinner at a late hour, and that I was well
+satisfied with Vire.
+
+Yesterday M. de Larenaudiere made good his engagement, and dined with me at
+five, in the salle a manger. This is a large inn; and if good fare depended
+upon the number and even elegance of female cooks, the traveller ought to
+expect the very best at the _Cheval Blanc_. The afternoon was so
+inviting--and my guest having volunteered his services to conduct me to the
+most beautiful points of view in the immediate neighbourhood--that we each
+seemed to vie with the other in quickly dispatching what was placed before
+us; and within thirty-five minutes, from the moment of sitting down, we
+were in the outskirts of Vire. Never shall I forget that afternoon's
+ramble. The sun seemed to become more of a golden hue, and the atmosphere
+to increase in clearness and serenity. A thousand little songsters were
+warbling in the full-leaved branches of the trees; while the mingled notes
+of the _blanchisseuses_ and the milk-maids, near the banks of the rippling
+stream below, reached us in a sort of wild and joyous harmony--as we gazed
+down from the overhanging heights. The meadows were spotted with sheep, and
+the orchards teemed with the coming fruit. You may form some notion of the
+value of this rich and picturesque scenery, when I tell you that M. de
+Larenaudiere possesses land, in the immediate vicinity of Vire, which lets
+per acre at the rate of _6l._ _6s._ English. My guide was all gaiety of
+heart, and activity of step. I followed him through winding paths and
+devious tracks, amidst coppice-wood and fern--not however till I had
+viewed, from one particular spot upon the heights, a most commanding and
+interesting panorama of the town of Vire.
+
+In our perambulation, we discoursed of English poetry; and I found that
+THOMSON was as great a favourite with my guide as with the rest of his
+countrymen. Indeed he frankly told me that he had translated him into
+French verse, and intended to publish his translation. I urged him to quote
+specimens; which he did with a readiness and force, and felicity of
+version, that quite delighted me. He thoroughly understands the original;
+and in the description of a cataract, or mountain torrent, from the Summer,
+he appeared to me almost to surpass it. My guide then proceeded to quote
+Young and Pope, and delivered his opinion of our two great Whig and Tory
+Reviews. He said he preferred the politics and vivacity of the _Edinburgh_,
+but thought the _Quarterly_ more instructive and more carefully written.
+"Enfin (he concluded) j'aime infiniment votre gouvernement, et vos
+ecrivains; mais j'aime moins le peuple Anglois." I replied that he had at
+least very recently shewn an exception to this opinion, in his treatment of
+_one_ among this _very_ people. "C'est une autre chose"--replied he
+briskly, and laughingly--"vous allez voir deux de vos compatriotes, qui
+sont mes intimes, et vous en serez bien content!" So saying, we continued
+our route through a delightful avenue of beech-trees, upon the most
+elevated part within the vicinity of the town; and my companion bade me
+view from thence the surrounding country. It was rich and beautiful in the
+extreme; and with perfect truth, I must say, resembled much more strongly
+the generality of our own scenery than what I had hitherto witnessed in
+Normandy. But the sun was beginning to cast his shadows broader and
+broader, and where was the residence of Monsieur and Madame S----?
+
+It was almost close at hand. We reached it in a quarter of an hour--but the
+inmates were unluckily from home. The house is low and long, but
+respectable in appearance both within and without. The approach to it is
+through a pretty copse, terminated by a garden; and the surrounding grounds
+are rather tastefully laid out. A portion of it indeed had been trained
+into something in the shape of a labyrinth; in the centre of which was a
+rocky seat, embedded as it were in moss--and from which some fine glimpses
+were caught of the surrounding country. The fragrance from the orchard
+trees, which had not yet quite shed their blossoms, was perfectly
+delicious; while the stillness of evening added to the peculiar harmony of
+the whole. We had scarcely sauntered ten minutes before Madame arrived. She
+had been twelve years in France, and spoke her own language so imperfectly,
+or rather so unintelligibly, that I begged of her to resume the French. Her
+reception of us was most hospitable: but we declined cakes and wine, on
+account of the lateness of the hour. She told us that her husband was in
+possession of from fourscore to a hundred acres of the most productive
+land; and regretted that he was from home, on a visit to a neighbouring
+gentleman; assuring us, if we could stay, that he would be heartily glad to
+see us--"especially any of his _countrymen_, when introduced by Monsieur de
+Larenaudiere." It was difficult to say who smiled and bowed with the
+greater complacency, at this double-shotted compliment. I now pressed our
+retreat homewards. We bade this agreeable lady farewell, and returned down
+the heights, and through the devious paths by which we had ascended,
+
+  While talk of various kind deceived the road.
+
+A more active and profitable day has not yet been devoted to Norman
+objects, whether of art or of nature. Tomorrow I breakfast with my friend
+and guide, and immediately afterwards push on for FALAISE. A cabriolet is
+hired, but doubts are entertained respecting the practicability of the
+route. My next epistle will be therefore from Falaise--where the renowned
+William the Conqueror was born, whose body we left entombed at Caen. The
+day is clearing up; and I yet hope for a stroll upon the site of the
+castle.
+
+
+
+[160] "_Les Distiques de Muret, traduits en vers Francais, par Aug.
+    A_. Se vend a Vire, chez Adam imprimeur-lib. An. 1809. The reader may
+    not be displeased to have a specimen of the manner of rendering these
+    distichs into French verse:
+
+      1.
+      Dum tener es, MURETE, avidis haec auribus hauri:
+      Nec memori modo conde animo, sed et exprime factis.
+
+      2.
+      Imprimis venerare Deum; venerare parentes:
+      Et quos ipsa loco tibi dat natura parentum.
+      &c.
+
+      1.
+      _Jeune encore, o mon fils! pour etre homme de bien,
+      Ecoute, et dans ton coeur grave cet entretien_.
+
+      2.
+      _Sers, honors le Dieu qui crea tous les etres;
+      Sois fils respectueux, sois docile a tes maitres.
+      &c_.
+
+[161] [Smartly and felicitously rendered by my translator Mons. Licquet;
+    "Jamais bouche Normande ne m'avait paru plus eloquente que celle de M.
+    Adam." vol. ii. p. 220.]
+
+[162] The present seems to be the proper place to give the reader some
+    account of this once famous Bacchanalian poet. It is not often that
+    France rests her pretensions to poetical celebrity upon such claims.
+    Love, romantic adventures, gaiety of heart and of disposition, form
+    the chief materials of her minor poems; but we have here before us, in
+    the person and productions of OLIVIER BASSELIN, a rival to ANACREON of
+    old; to our own RICHARD BRAITHWAIT, VINCENT BOURNE, and THOMAS MOORE.
+    As this volume may not be of general notoriety, the reader may be
+    prepared to receive an account of its contents with the greater
+    readiness and satisfaction. First, then, of the life and occupations
+    of Olivier Basselin; which, as Goujet has entirely passed over all
+    notice of him, we can gather only from the editors of the present
+    edition of his works. Basselin appears to have been a _Virois_;
+    in other words, an inhabitant of the town of Vire. But he had a
+    strange propensity to rusticating, and preferred the immediate
+    vicinity of Vire--its quiet little valleys, running streams, and rocky
+    recesses--to a more open and more distant residence. In such places,
+    therefore, he carried with him his flasks of cider and his flagons of
+    wine. Thither he resorted with his "boon and merry companions," and
+    there he poured forth his ardent and unpremeditated strains. These
+    "strains" all savoured of the jovial propensities of their author; it
+    being very rarely that tenderness of sentiment, whether connected with
+    friendship or love, is admitted into his compositions. He was the
+    thorough-bred Anacreon of France at the close of the fifteenth
+    century.
+
+    The town of Vire, as the reader may have already had intimation, is
+    the chief town of that department of Normandy called the BOCAGE; and
+    in this department few places have been, of old, more celebrated than
+    the _Vaux de Vire_; on account of the number of manufactories which
+    have existed there from time immemorial. It derives its name from two
+    principal valleys, in the form of a T, of which the base (if it may be
+    so called--"jambage") rests upon the _Place du Chateau de Vire_. It is
+    sufficiently contiguous to the town to be considered among the
+    fauxbourgs. The rivers _Vire_ and _Virene_, which unite at the bridge
+    of Vaux, run somewhat rapidly through the valleys. These rivers are
+    flanked by manufactories of paper and cloth, which, from the XVth
+    century, have been distinguished for their prosperous condition.
+    Indeed, BASSELIN himself was a sort of cloth manufacturer. In this
+    valley he passed his life in fulling his cloths, and "in composing
+    those gay and delightful songs which are contained in the volume under
+    consideration." _Discours Preliminaire_, p. 17, &c. Olivier Basselin
+    is the parent of the title _Vaudevire--_which has since been corrupted
+    into _Vaudeville_. From the observation of his critics, Basselin
+    appears to have been the FATHER of BACCHANALIAN POETRY in France. He
+    frequented public festivals, and was a welcome guest at the tables of
+    the rich; where the Vaudevire was in such request, that it is supposed
+    to have superseded the "Conte, or Fabliau, or the Chanson d'Amour."[B]
+    p. xviij:
+
+      Sur ce point-la, soyez tranquille:
+      Nos neveux, j'en suis bien certain,
+      Se souviendront de BASSELIN,
+      _Pere joyeux du Vaudeville:_ p. xxiij.
+
+    I proceed to submit a few specimens of the muse of this ancient
+    ANACREON of France; and must necessarily begin with a few of those
+    that are chiefly of a bacchanalian quality.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE II_.
+
+      AYANT le doz au feu et le ventre a la table,
+      Estant parmi les pots pleins de vin delectable,
+         Ainsi comme ung poulet
+      Je ne me laisseray morir de la pepie,
+      Quant en debvroye avoir la face cramoisie
+         Et le nez violet;
+
+      QUANT mon nez devendra de couleur rouge ou perse,
+      Porteray les couleurs que cherit ma maitresse.
+         Le vin rent le teint beau.
+      Vault-il pas mieulx avoir la couleur rouge et vive,
+      Riche de beaulx rubis, que si pasle et chetive
+         Ainsi qu'ung beuveur d'eau.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XI_.
+
+      CERTES _hoc vinum est bonus_:
+      Du maulvais latin ne nous chaille,
+      Se bien congru n'estoit ce jus,
+      Le tout ne vauldroit rien que vaille.
+      Escolier j'appris que bon vin
+      Aide bien au maulvais latin.
+
+      CESTE sentence praticquant,
+      De latin je n'en appris guere;
+      Y pensant estre assez scavant,
+      Puisque bon vin aimoye a boire.
+      Lorsque maulvais vin on a beu,
+      Latin n'est bon, fust-il congru.
+      Fy du latin, parlons francois,
+      Je m'y recongnois davantaige.
+      Je vueil boire une bonne fois,
+      Car voicy ung maistre breuvaige;
+      Certes se j'en beuvoye soubvent,
+      Je deviendroye fort eloquent.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XXII_.
+
+        HE! qu'avons-nous affaire
+        Du Turc ny du Sophy,
+           Don don.
+        Pourveu que j'aye a boire,
+        Des grandeurs je dis fy.
+           Don don.
+      Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:
+      _Hoc acuit ingenium._
+
+        QUI songe en vin ou vigne,
+        Est ung presaige heureux,
+           Don don.
+        Le vin a qui rechigne
+        Rent le coeur tout joyeux,
+           Don don.
+      Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:
+      _Hoc acuit ingenium_.
+         &c.
+
+    The poetry of Basselin is almost wholly devoted to the celebration of
+    the physical effects of wine upon the body and animal spirits; and the
+    gentler emotions of the TENDER PASSION are rarely described in his
+    numbers. In consequence, he has not invoked the Goddess of Beauty to
+    associate with the God of Wine: to
+
+      "Drop from her myrtle one leaf in his bowl;"
+
+    or, when he does venture to introduce the society of a female, it is
+    done after the following fashion--which discovers however an extreme
+    facility and melody of rhythm. The burden of the song seems
+    wonderfully accordant with a Bacchanalian note.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XIX_.
+
+      En ung jardin d'ombraige tout couvert,
+      Au chaud du jour, ay treuve Madalaine,
+      Qui pres le pie d'ung sicomorre vert
+      Dormoit au bort d'une claire fontaine;
+      Son lit estoit de thin et marjolaine.
+      Son tetin frais n'estoit pas bien cache:
+         D'amour touche,
+      Pour contempler sa beaute souveraine
+      Incontinent je m'en suys approche.
+         Sus, sus, qu'on se resveille,
+         Voicy vin excellent
+         Qui faict lever l'oreille;
+         Il faict mol qui n'en prent.
+
+      Je n'eus pouvoir, si belle la voyant,
+      De m'abstenir de baizotter sa bouche;
+      Si bien qu'enfin la belle s'esveillant,
+      Me regardant avec ung oeil farouche,
+      Me dit ces mots: Biberon, ne me touche.
+      Belle fillette a son aize ne couche
+      Avecq celuy qui ne faict qu'yvrongner,
+         &c.  &c.
+
+    The preceding extracts will suffice. This is a volume in every respect
+    interesting--both to the literary antiquary and to the Book-Collector.
+    A NEW EDITION of this work has appeared under the editorial care of M.
+    Louis Dubois, published at Caen in 1821, 8vo. obtainable at a very
+    moderate price.
+
+      [B] The host, at these public and private festivals, usually called
+      upon some one to recite or sing a song, chiefly of an amatory or
+      chivalrous character; and this custom prevailed more particularly in
+      Normandy than in other parts of France:
+
+        Usaige est en Normandie,
+        Que qui hebergiez est qu'il die
+        Fable ou Chanson a son oste.
+
+      See the authorities cited at page XV, of this Discours preliminaire.
+
+[163] Some account of this printer, together with a fac-simile of his
+    device, may be seen in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. ii.
+    p. 33-6.
+
+[164] The first publication is entitled "_Essai sur l'Histoire de
+    l'Industrie du Bocage en General et de la Ville de Vire sa capitale en
+    particulier, &c._" Par M. RICHARD SEGUIN. _A Vire, chez Adam,
+    Imprimeur, an_ 1810, 12mo. It is not improbable that I may have
+    been the only importer of this useful and crowdedly-paged duodecimo
+    volume; which presents us with so varied and animated a picture of the
+    manners, customs, trades, and occupations of the Bocains and the
+    Virois.
+
+[165] I subjoin an extract which relates to the
+
+        DRESS AND CHARACTER OF THE WOMEN.
+
+        "Quant au COSTUME DES FEMMES d'aujourd'hui, comme il faudrait un
+        volume entier pour le decrire, je n'ai pas le courage de m'engager
+        dans ce labyrinte de ridicules et de frivolites. Ce que j'en dirai
+        seulement en general, c'est qu'autant les femmes du temps passe,
+        etaient decentes et chastes, et se faisaient gloire d'etre graves
+        et modestes, autant celles de notre siecle mettent tout en oeuvre
+        pour paraitre cyniques et voluptueuses. Nous ne sommes plus au
+        temps ou les plus grandes dames se faisaient honneur de porter la
+        cordeliere.[C] Leurs habillemens etaient aussi larges et fermes,
+        que celui des femmes de nos jours sont ouverts et legers, et d'une
+        finesse que les formes du corps, au moindre mouvement, se
+        dessinent, de maniere a ne laisser rien ignorer. A peine se
+        couvrent-elles le sein d'un voile transparent tres-leger ou de je
+        ne sais quelle palatine qu'elles nomment point-a-jour, qui, en
+        couvrant tout, ne cache rien; en sorte que si elles n'etalent pas
+        tous leurs charmes a decouvert, c'est que les hommes les moins
+        scrupuleux, qui se contentent de les persifler, en seraient
+        revoltes tout-a-fait. D'ailleurs, c'est que ce n'est pas encore la
+        mode; plusieurs poussent meme l'impudence jusqu'a venir dans nos
+        temples sans coiffure, les cheveux herisses comme des furies;
+        d'autres, par une bizarrerie qu'on ne peut expliquer se
+        depouillent, autant qu'il est en leur pouvoir, des marques de leur
+        propre sexe, sembleut rougir d'etre femmes, et deviennent
+        ridicules en voulant paraitre demi-hommes.
+
+        "Apres avoir deshonore l'habit des femmes, elles ont encore voulu
+        prostituer CELUI DES HOMMES. On les a vues adopter successivement
+        les chapeaux, les redingotes, les vestes, les gilets, les bottes
+        et jusqu'aux boutons. Enfin si, au lieu de jupons, elles avaient
+        pu s'accommoder de l'usage de la culotte, la metamorphose etait
+        complette; mais elles ont prefere les robes trainantes; c'est
+        dommage que la nature ne leur ait donne une troisieme main, qui
+        leur serait necessaire pour tenir cette longue queue, qui souvent
+        patrouille la boue ou balaye la poussiere. Plut a Dieu que les
+        anciennes lois fussent encore en vigueur, ou ceux et celles qui
+        portaient des habits indecent etaient obliges d'aller a Rome pour
+        en obtenir l'absolution, qui ne pouvait leur etre accordee que par
+        le souverain pontife, &c.
+
+        "Les femmes du Bocage, et sur-tout les Viroises, joignent a un
+        esprit vif et enjoue les qualites du corps les plus estimables.
+        Blondes et brunes pour le plus grand nombre, elles sont de la
+        moyenne taille, mais bien formees: elles ont le teint frais et
+        fleuri, l'oeil vif, le visage vermeil, la demarche leste, un air
+        etoffe et tres elegantes dans tout leur maintien. Si on dit avec
+        raison que les Bayeusines sont belles, les filles du Bocage, qui
+        sont leurs voisines, ne leur cedent en aucune maniere, car en
+        general le sang est tres-beau en ce pays. Quant aux talens
+        spirituels, elles les possedent a un degre eminent. Elles parlent
+        avec aisance, ont le repartie prompte, et outre les soins du
+        menage, ou elles excellent de telle sorte qu'il n'y a point de
+        contrees ou il y ait plus de linge, elles entendent a merveille,
+        et font avec succes tout le detail du commerce." p. 238.
+
+    These passages, notwithstanding the amende honorable of the concluding
+    paragraph, raised a storm of indignation against the unsuspecting
+    author! Nor can we be surprised at it.
+
+    This publication is really filled with a great variety of curious
+    historical detail--throughout which is interspersed much that relates
+    to "romaunt lore" and romantic adventures. The civil wars between
+    MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON form alone a very important and interesting
+    portion of the volume; and it is evident that the author has exerted
+    himself with equal energy and anxiety to do justice to both
+    parties--except that occasionally he betrays his antipathies against
+    the Hugonots.[D] I will quote the concluding passage of this work.
+    There may be at least half a score readers who may think it something
+    more than merely historically curious:
+
+        "Je finirai donc ici mon Histoire. Je n'ai point parle d'un grand
+        nombre des faits d'armes et d'actions glorieuses, qui se sont
+        passes dans la guerre de l'independance des Etats-Unis d'Amerique
+        ou beaucoup de Bocains ont eu part; mais mon principal dessein a
+        ete de traiter des guerres qui ont eu lieu dans le Bocage; ainsi
+        je crois avoir atteint mon but, qui etait d'ecrire l'Histoire
+        Militaire des Bocains par des faits et non par des phrases, je ne
+        peux cependant omettre une circonstance glorieuse pour le Bocage;
+        c'est la visite que le bon et infortune Louis XVI. fit aux Bocains
+        en 1786. Ce grand Monarque dont les vues etaient aussi sages que
+        profondes, avait resolu de faire construire le beau Port de
+        Cherbourg, ouvrage vraiment Royal, qui est une des plus nobles
+        entreprises qui aient ete faites depuis l'origine de la Monarchie.
+        Les Bocains sentirent l'avantage d'un si grand bienfait. Le Roi
+        venant visiter les travaux, fut accueilli avec un enthousiasme
+        presqu'impossible a decrire, ainsi que les Princes qui
+        l'accompagnaient. Sa marche rassemblait a un triomphe. Les peuples
+        accouraient en foule du fond des campagnes, et bordaient la route,
+        faisant retentir les airs de chants d'alegresse et des cris
+        millions de fois repetes de Vive le Roi! Musique, Processions,
+        Arcs de triomphe, Chemins jonches de fleurs; tout fut prodigue.
+        Les villes de Caen, de Bayeux, de Saint-Lo, de Carentan, de
+        Valognes, se surpasserent dans cette occasion, pour prouver a S.M.
+        leur amour et leur reconnaissance; mais rien ne fut plus brillant
+        que l'entree de ce grand Roi a Cherbourg. Un peuple immense, le
+        clerge, toute la noblesse du pays, le son des cloches, le bruit du
+        canon, les acclamations universelles prouverent au Monarque mieux
+        encore que la pompe toute Royale et les fetes magnifiques que la
+        ville ne cessa de lui donner tous les jours, que les coeurs de
+        tous les Bocains etaient a lui." p. 428.
+
+      [C] "Ceinture alors regardee comme le symbole de la continence. La
+      reine de France en decorait les femmes titrees dont la conduite
+      etait irreprochable." _Hist. de la reun. de Bretagne a la France
+      par l'abbe Irail_.
+
+      [D] "Les soldats Huguenots commirent dans cette occasion, toutes
+      sortes de cruautes, d'infamies et de sacrileges, jusqu'a meler les
+      Saintes Hosties avec l'avoine qu'ils donnaient a leurs chevaux: mais
+      Dieu permit qu'ils n'en voulurent pas manger." p. 369.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM VIRE. CONDE. PONT OUILLY. ARRIVAL AT FALAISE. HOTEL OF THE
+GRAND TURC. THE CASTLE OF FALAISE. BIBLIOMANIACAL INTERVIEW.
+
+_Falaise_.
+
+
+Here I am--or rather, here I have been--my most excellent friend, for the
+last four days--and from hence you will receive probably the last despatch
+from NORMANDY--- from the "land (as I told you in my first epistle) of
+"castles, churches, and ancient chivalry." An old, well-situated,
+respectably-inhabited, and even flourishing, town--the birth-place too of
+our renowned FIRST WILLIAM:--weather, the most serene and inviting--and
+hospitality, thoroughly hearty, and after the English fashion:--these have
+all conspired to put me in tolerably good spirits. My health, too, thank
+God, has been of late a little improved. You wish me to continue the thread
+of my narrative unbroken; and I take it up therefore from the preparation
+for my departure from Vire.
+
+I breakfasted, as I told you I was about to do, with my friend and guide
+Mons. de Larenaudiere; who had prepared quite a sumptuous repast for our
+participation. Coffee, eggs, sweetmeats, cakes, and all the comfortable
+paraphernalia of an inviting breakfast-table, convinced us that we were in
+well-furnished and respectable quarters. Madame did the honours of the meal
+in perfectly good taste; and one of the loveliest children I ever saw--a
+lad, of about five or six years of age--with a profusion of hair of the
+most delicate quality and colour, gave a sort of joyous character to our
+last meal at Vire. The worthy host told me  to forget him, when I reached
+my own country;[166] and that, if ever business or pleasure brought me
+again into Normandy, to remember that the Maire de Tallevende-le-Petit
+would-be always happy to renew his assurances of hospitality. At the same
+time, he entreated me to pay attention to a list of English books which he
+put into my hands; and of which he stood considerably in need. We bade
+farewell in the true English fashion, by a hearty shake of the hands; and,
+mounting our voiture, gave the signal for departure. "Au plaisir de vous
+revoir!"--'till a turning of the carriage deprived us of the sight of each
+other. It is not easy--and I trust it is not natural--for me to forget the
+last forty-eight hours spent in the interesting town of VIRE!
+
+Our route to this place was equally grand and experimental; grand, as to
+the width of the road, and beauty of the surrounding country--but
+experimental, inasmuch as a part of the _route royale_ had been broken up,
+and rendered wholly impassable for carriages of any weight. Our own, of its
+kind, was sufficiently light; with a covering of close wicker-work, painted
+after the fashion of some of our bettermost tilted carts. One Norman horse,
+in full condition of flesh, with an equal portion of bone and muscle, was
+to convey us to this place, which cannot be less than twenty-two good long
+English miles from Vire. The carriage had no springs; and our seat was
+merely suspended by pieces of leather fastened at each end. At _Conde_,
+about one-third of the distance, we baited, to let both man and horse
+breathe over their dinners; while, strolling about that prettily situated
+little town, we mingled with the inhabitants, and contemplated the various
+faces (it being market-day) with no ordinary degree of gratification.
+Amidst the bustle and variety of the scene, our ears were greeted by the
+air of an itinerant ballad-singer: nor will you be displeased if I send you
+a copy of it:--since it is gratifying to find any thing like a return to
+the good old times of the sixteenth century.
+
+  VIVE LE ROI, VIVE L'AMOUR.
+
+  Francois Premier, nous dit l'histoire,
+  Etoit la fleur des Chevaliers,
+  Pres d'Etampes aux champs de gloire
+  Il recueillit myrtes et lauriers;
+  Sa maitresse toujours fidele,
+  Le payant d'un tendre retour,
+  Lui chantant cette ritournelle;
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  Henri, des princes le modele,
+  Ton souvenir est dans nos coeurs,
+  Par la charmante Gabrielle
+  Ton front fut couronne de fleurs;
+  De la Ligue domptant la rage,
+  Tu sus triompher tour-a-tour,
+  Par la clemence et ton courage:
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  Amant cheri de la Valliere,
+  Des ennemis noble vainqueur,
+  LOUIS savoit combattre et plaire,
+  Guide par l'Amour et l'honneur;
+  A son retour de la Victoire,
+  Entoure d'une aimable cour,
+  Il entendoit ce cri de gloire:
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  &c.
+
+There was a freshness of tint, and a comeliness of appearance, among the
+bourgeoises and common people, which were not to be eclipsed even by the
+belles of Coutances. Our garcon de poste and his able-bodied quadruped
+having each properly recruited themselves, we set forward--by
+preference--to walk up the very long and somewhat steep hill which rises on
+the other side of Conde towards _Pont Ouilly_--in the route hither. Perhaps
+this was the most considerable ascent we had mounted on foot, since we had
+left Rouen. The view from the summit richly repaid the toil of using our
+legs. It was extensive, fruitful, and variegated; but neither rock nor
+mountain scenery; nor castles, nor country seats; nor cattle, nor the
+passing traveller--served to mark or to animate it. It was still, pure
+nature, upon a vast and rich scale: and as the day was fine, and my spirits
+good, I was resolved to view and to admire.
+
+_Pont Ouilly_ lies in a hollow; with a pretty winding river, which seems to
+run through its centre. The surrounding hills are gently undulating; and as
+we descended to the Inn, we observed, over the opposite side of the town,
+upon the summit of one of the hills, a long procession of men and
+women--headed by an ecclesiastic, elevating a cross--who were about to
+celebrate, at some little distance, one of their annual festivals. The
+effect--as the procession came in contact with a bright blue sky, softened
+by distance--was uncommonly picturesque ... but the day was getting on
+fast, and there was yet a considerable distance to perform,--while, in
+addition, we had to encounter the most impassable part of the road.
+Besides, I had not yet eaten a morsel since I had left Vire. Upon holding a
+consultation, therefore, it was resolved to make for the inn, and to dine
+there. A more sheltered, rural, spot cannot be conceived. It resembled very
+many of the snug scenes in South Wales. Indeed the whole country was of a
+character similar to many parts of Monmouthshire; although with a miserable
+draw-back in respect to the important feature of _wood_. Through the whole
+of Normandy, you miss those grand and overshadowing masses of oak, which
+give to Monmouthshire, and its neighbouring county of Glocester, that rich
+and majestic appearance which so decidedly marks the character of those
+counties. However, we are now at the inn at Pont Ouilly. A dish of river
+fish, gudgeons, dace, and perch, was speedily put in requisition. Good
+wine, "than which France could boast no better!" and a roast fowl, which
+the daughter of the hostess "knew how to dress to admiration" ... was all
+that this humble abode could afford us." "But we were welcome:"--that is,
+upon condition that we paid our reckoning....
+
+The dinner would be ready in a "short half hour." Mr. Lewis, went to the
+bridge, to look around, for the purpose of exercising his pencil: while I
+sauntered more immediately about the house. Within five minutes a
+well-looking, and even handsome, young woman--of an extremely fair
+complexion--her hair cut close behind--her face almost smothered in a white
+cap which seemed of crape--and habited in a deep black--passed quickly by
+me, and ascended a flight of steps, leading to the door of a very humble
+mansion. She smiled graciously at the _aubergiste_ as she passed her, and
+quickly disappeared. On enquiry, I was told that she was a nun, who, since
+the suppression of the convent to which she had belonged, earned her
+livelihood by teaching some of the more respectable children in the
+village. She had just completed her twentieth year. I was now addressed by
+a tall, bluff, shabby-looking man--who soon led me to understand that he
+was master of the inn where my "suite" was putting up;--that I had been
+egregiously deceived about the nature of the road--for that it was totally
+impossible for _one_ horse:--even the very best in Normandy--(and where
+will you find better? added he, parenthetically--as I here give it to you)
+to perform the journey with such a voiture and such a weight of luggage
+behind." I was struck equally with amazement and woe at this intelligence.
+The unpitying landlord saw my consternation. "Hark you, sir... (rejoined
+he) if you _must_ reach Falaise this evening, there is only one method of
+doing it. You must have _another horse_." "Willingly," I replied. "Yes,
+sir--but you can have it only upon _one_ condition." "What is that?" "I
+have some little business at Falaise myself. Allow me to strap about one
+hundred weight of loaf-sugar at the back of your conveyance, and I myself
+will be your garcon de poste thither." I own I thought him about the most
+impudent fellow I had yet seen in Normandy: but there was no time for
+resistance. Necessity compelled acquiescence. Accordingly, the dinner being
+dispatched--which, though good, was charged at six francs a-head--we
+prepared for our departure.
+
+But judge of my surprise and increased consternation, when the fellow
+ordered forth a little runt of a quadruped--in the shape of a horse--which
+was hardly higher than the lower part of the chest of the animal which
+brought us from Vire! I remonstrated. The landlord expostulated. I
+resisted--but the fellow said it was a bargain; and proceeded quietly to
+deposit at least _two_ hundred weight of his refined sugar at the back of
+the carriage. This Lilliputian horse was made the leader. The landlord
+mounted on the front seat, with our Vire post-boy by the side of him; and
+sounding his whip, with a most ear-piercing whoop and hollow, we sprung
+forward for Falaise--which we were told we should reach before sunset. You
+can hardly conceive the miseries of this cross-road journey. The route
+royale was, in fact, completely impassable; because they were repairing it.
+Alarmed at the ruggedness of the cross-road, where one wheel was in a rut
+of upwards of a foot deep, and the other elevated in proportion--we got
+out, and resolved to push on a-foot. We walked for nearly two leagues,
+before our conveyance overtook us--so harassing and so apparently
+insurmountable seemed to be the road. But the cunning aubergiste had now
+got rid of his leader. He said that it was only necessary to use it for the
+first two or three leagues--which was the most difficult part of the
+route--and that, for the remainder, about five English miles, our "fine
+Norman horse" was perfectly sufficient. This fine Norman horse was
+treated most unmercifully by him. He flogged, he hallooed, he swore ...
+the animal tript, stumbled, and fell upon his knees--more than
+once--from sheer fatigue. The charioteer hallooed and flogged again: and
+I thought we must have taken up our night quarters in the
+high-way;--when suddenly, to the left, I saw the fine warm glow of the
+sun, which had set about twenty minutes, lighting up one of the most
+perfect round towers, of an old castle, that I had yet seen in Normandy.
+Voila FALAISE!--exclaimed the ruthless charioteer; ... and in a quarter
+of an hour we trotted hard down a hill (after the horse had been twice
+again upon his knees) which terminated in this most interesting place.
+
+It will be difficult for me to forget--after such a long, wearisome, and in
+part desperate journey--our approach to Falaise:--and more especially the
+appearance of the castle just mentioned. The stone seemed as fresh, and as
+perfectly cemented, as if it had been the work of the preceding year.
+Moreover, the contiguous parts were so fine and so thoroughly
+picturesque--and the superadded tradition of its being, according to some,
+the birth place--and according to others, the usual residence--of WILLIAM
+THE CONQUEROR ... altogether threw a charm about the first glimpse of this
+venerable pile, which cannot be easily described. I had received
+instructions to put up at the "_Grand Turc_"--as the only hotel worthy an
+Englishman's notice. At the door of the Grand Turk, therefore, we were
+safely deposited: after having got rid of our incumbrances of two
+postilions, and two hundred weight of refined sugar. Our reception was
+gracious in the extreme. The inn appeared "tout-a-fait a la mode
+Anglaise"--and no marvel ... for Madame the hostess was an Englishwoman.
+Her husband's name was _David_.
+
+Bespeaking a late cup of tea, I strolled through the principal
+streets,--delighted with the remarkably clear current of the water, which
+ran on each side from the numerous overcharged fountains. Day-light had
+wholly declined; when, sitting down to my souchong, I saw, with
+astonishment--a _pair of sugar-tongs_ and a _salt-spoon_--the first of the
+kind I had beheld since I left England! Madame David enjoyed my surprise;
+adding, in a very droll phraseology, that she had "not forgotten good
+English customs." Our beds and bed rooms were perfectly comfortable, and
+even elegant.
+
+The moat which encircles, not only the castle, but the town--and which must
+have been once formidable from its depth and breadth, when filled with
+water--is now most pleasingly metamorphosed. Pasture lands, kitchen
+gardens, and orchards, occupy it entirely. Here the cattle quietly stray,
+and luxuriously feed. But the metamorphosis of the _castle_ has been, in an
+equal degree, unfortunate. The cannon balls, during the wars of the
+League--and the fury of the populace, with the cupidity or caprice of
+some individuals, during the late revolution--helped to produce this
+change. After breakfast, I felt a strong desire to survey carefully the
+scite and structure of the castle. It was a lovely day; and in five
+minutes I obtained admission at a temporary outer gate. The first near
+view within the ramparts perfectly enchanted me. The situation is at
+once bold, commanding, and picturesque. But as the opposite, and
+immediately contiguous ground, is perhaps yet a little higher, it should
+follow that a force, placed upon such eminence--as indeed was that of
+Henry the Fourth, during the wars of the League--would in the end subdue
+the garrison, or demolish the castle. I walked here and there amidst
+briars and brushwood, diversified with lilacs and laburnums; and by the
+aid of the guide soon got within an old room--of which the outer walls
+only remained--and which is distinguished by being called the
+_birth-place_ of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR.
+
+Between ourselves, the castle appears to be at least a century later than
+the time of William the Conqueror; and certainly the fine round tower, of
+which such frequent mention has been made, is rather of the fourteenth, if
+not of the beginning of the fifteenth century;[167] but it is a noble piece
+of masonry. The stone is of a close grain and beautiful colour, and the
+component parts are put together with a hard cement, and with the smallest
+possible interstices. At the top of it, on the left side, facing the high
+road from Vire,--and constructed within the very walls themselves, is a
+_well_--which goes from the top apparently to the very bottom of the
+foundation, quite to the bed of the moat. It is about three feet in
+diameter, measuring with the eye; perhaps four: but it is doubtless a very
+curious piece of workmanship. We viewed with an inquisitive eye what
+remained of the _Donjon_: sighed, as we surveyed the ruins of the
+_chapel_--a very interesting little piece of ecclesiastical antiquity:
+and shuddered as we contemplated the enormous and ponderous
+portcullis--which had a _drop of_ full twenty feet ... to keep out the
+invading foe. I was in truth delighted with this first reconnoissance of
+FALAISE--beneath one of the brightest and bluest skies of Normandy!
+and--within walls, which were justly considered to be among the most
+perfect as well as the most ancient of those in Normandy.
+
+Leaving my companion to take a view of the upper part of this venerable
+building, I retreated towards the town--resolved to leave no church and no
+street unexplored. On descending, and quitting the gate by which I had
+entered, a fine, robust, and respectable figure, habited as an
+Ecclesiastic, met and accosted me. I was most prompt to return the
+salutation. "We are proud, Sir, of our castle, and I observe you have been
+visiting it. The English ought to take an interest in it, since it was the
+birth-place of William the Conqueror." I readily admitted it was well worth
+a minute examination: but as readily turned the conversation to the subject
+of LIBRARIES. The amiable stranger (for he was gaining upon me fast, by his
+unaffected manners and sensible remarks) answered, that "their _own_ public
+library existed no longer--having been made subservient to the
+inquisitorial visit of M. Moysant of Caen[168]: that he had himself
+procured for the Bishop of Bayeux the _Mentz Bible_ of 1462--and that the
+Chapter-Library of Bayeux, before the Revolution, could not have contained
+fewer than 40,000 volumes. "But you are doubtless acquainted, Sir, with the
+COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE, who resides in yonder large mansion?"--pointing to a
+house upon an elevated spot on the other side of the town. I replied that I
+had not that honour; and was indeed an utter stranger to every inhabitant
+of Falaise. I then stated, in as few and precise words as possible, the
+particular object of my visit to the Continent. "Cela suffit"--resumed the
+unknown--"nous irons faire visite a Monsieur le Comte apres le dine; a ce
+moment il s'occupe avec le potage--car c'est un jour maigre. Il sera charme
+de vous recevoir. Il aime infiniment les Anglois, et il a reste long-temps
+chez vous. C'est un brave homme--et meme un grand antiquaire."
+
+My pulse and colour increased sensibly as the stranger uttered these latter
+words: and he concluded by telling me that he was himself the Cure of _Ste.
+Trinite_ one of the two principal churches of the town--and that his name
+was MOUTON. Be assured that I shall not lose sight of the Comte de la
+Fresnaye, and Monsieur Mouton.
+
+
+[166] [Only ONE letter has passed between us since my departure; and that
+    enables me to subjoin a fac-simile of its author's autograph.
+
+    [Autograph: de Larenaudiere]
+
+[167] [It was in fact built by the famous Lord Talbot, about the year 1420.
+    A similar castle, but less strong and lofty, may be seen at Castor,
+    near Yarmouth in Norfolk--once the seat of the famous Sir JOHN
+    FASTOLF, (a contemporary with Talbot) of whom Anstis treats so fully
+    in his _Order of the Garter_, vol.i. p.142.]
+
+[168] See p. 205 ante.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+MONS. MOUTON. CHURCH OF STE. TRINITE. COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE. GUIBRAY CHURCH.
+SUPPOSED HEAD OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. M. LANGEVIN, HISTORIAN OF FALAISE.
+PRINTING OFFICES.
+
+
+I lose no time in the fulfilment of my promise. The church of SAINTE
+TRINITE, of which Monsieur Mouton is the Cure, is the second place of
+worship in rank in the town. During the Revolution, Mons. Mouton was
+compelled, with too many of his professional brethren, to fly from the
+general persecution of his order. One solitary and most amiable creature
+only remained; of the name of LANGEVIN--of whom, by and by, Monsieur Mouton
+did me the honour of shewing me the interior of his church. His stipend (as
+he told me) did not exceed 1500 francs per annum; and it is really
+surprising to observe to what apparent acts of generosity towards his
+flock, this income is made subservient. You shall hear. The altar consists
+of two angels of the size of life, kneeling very gracefully, in white
+glazed plaister: in the centre, somewhat raised above, is a figure of the
+Virgin, of the same materials; above which again, is a representation of
+the TRINITY--in a blaze of gilt. The massive circular columns surrounding
+the choir--probably of the fourteenth century--were just fresh painted, at
+the expense of the worthy Cure, in alternate colours of blue and
+yellow--imitative of marble;--that is to say, each column, alternately, was
+blue and yellow. It was impossible to behold any thing more glaring and
+more tasteless. I paid my little tribute of admiration at the simplicity
+and grace of the kneeling figure of the Virgin--but was stubbornly silent
+about every thing else. Monsieur Mouton replied that "he intended to grace
+the brows of the angels by putting a _garland_ round each." I felt a sort
+of twinge upon receiving this intelligence; but there is no persuading the
+French to reject, or to qualify, their excessive fondness for flower
+ornaments.
+
+Projecting from the wall, behind the circular part of the choir, I observed
+a figure of _St. Sebastian_--precisely of that character which we remark in
+the printed missals of the fifteenth century,--and from which the engravers
+of that period copied them: namely, with the head large, the body meagre,
+and the limbs loose and muscular. It was plentifully covered, as was the
+whole surface of the wall, with recent white wash. On observing this, my
+guide added: "oui, et je veux le faire couvrir d'une teinte encore plus
+blanche!" Here I felt a second twinge yet more powerful than the first. I
+noticed, towards the south-side door, a very fine crucifix, cut in wood,
+about three feet high; and apparently of the time of Goujon. It was by much
+the finest piece of sculpture, of its kind, which I had seen in Normandy;
+but it was rather in a decaying state. I wished to know whether such an
+object of art--apparently of no earthly importance, where it was
+situated--might be obtained for some honourable and adequate compensation.
+Monsieur Mouton replied that he desired to part with it--but that it must
+be replaced by another "full six feet high!" There was no meeting this
+proposition, and I ceased to say another word upon the subject.
+
+Upon the whole, the church of the Holy Trinity is rather a fine and
+capacious, than a venerable edifice; and although I cannot conscientiously
+approve of the beautifying and repairing which are going on therein, yet I
+will do the _planner_ the justice to say, that a more gentlemanly,
+liberally-minded, and truly amiable clergyman is perhaps no where to be
+found,--within or without the diocese to which he belongs. Attached to the
+north transept or side door, parallel with the street, is a long pole.
+"What might this mean?" "Sir, this pole was crowned at the top by a
+garland, and by the white flag of _St. Louis_,[169]--which were hoisted to
+receive me on my return from my long expatriation"--and the eyes of the
+narrator were suffused with tears, as he made the answer! It is of no
+consequence how small the income of an unmarried minister, may be, when he
+thus lives so entirely in the HEARTS OF HIS FLOCK. This church bears
+abundant evidence, within and without, of what is called the restoration of
+the Gothic order during the reign of Francis I.: although the most
+essential and the greater portion is evidently of the latter part of the
+fourteenth century.[170] Having expressed my admiration of the manufacture
+of wax candles (for religious purposes) which I had frequently observed in
+the town, Monsieur Mouton, upon taking me into the sacristy (similar to our
+vestry-room) begged I would do him the honour to accept of any which might
+be lying upon the table. These candles are made of the purest white wax: of
+a spiral, or twisted, or square, or circular form; of considerable length
+and width. They are also decorated with fillagree work, and tinsel of
+various colours. Upon that which I chose, there were little rosettes made
+of wax. The moderate sum for which they are obtained, startles an
+Englishman who thinks of the high price of this article of trade in his own
+country. You see frequently, against the walls and pillars of the choir,
+fragments of these larger wax candles, guttering down and begrimed from the
+uses made of them in time of worship. In this sacristy there were two
+little boys swinging _wooden_ censers, by way of practice for the more
+perfect use of them, when charged with frankincense, at the altar. To
+manage these adroitly--as the traveller is in the constant habit of
+observing during divine worship--is a matter of no very quick or easy
+attainment.
+
+From the Cure we proceed to the Comte DE LA FRESNAYE; whose pleasantly
+situated mansion had been pointed out to me, as you may remember, by the
+former. Passing over one of the bridges, leading towards _Guibray_, and
+ascending a gentle eminence to the left, I approached the outer lodge of
+this large and respectable-looking mansion. The Count and family were at
+dinner: but at _three_ they would rise from table. "Meanwhile," said the
+porter, it might give me pleasure to walk in the garden." It was one of the
+loveliest days imaginable. Such a sky--blue, bright, and cloudless--I had
+scarcely before seen. The garden was almost suffocated with lilacs and
+laburnums, glittering in their respective liveries of white, purple, and
+yellow. I stepped into a berceau--and sitting upon a bench, bethought me of
+the strange visit I was about to make--as well as of all the pleasing
+pastoral poetry and painting which I had read in the pages of De Lille, or
+viewed upon the canvas of Watteau. The clock of the church of _St. Gervais_
+struck three; when, starting from my reverie, I knocked at the hall-door,
+and was announced to the family, (who had just risen from dinner) above
+stairs. A circle of five gentlemen would have alarmed a very nervous
+visitor; but the Count, addressing me in a semi-British and semi-Gallic
+phraseology, immediately dissipated my fears. In five minutes he was made
+acquainted with the cause of this apparent intrusion.
+
+Nothing could exceed his amiable frankness. The very choicest wine was
+circulated at his table; of which I partook in a more decided manner on the
+following day--when he was so good as to invite me to dine. When I touched
+upon his favourite theme of Norman Antiquities, he almost shouted aloud the
+name of INGULPH,--that "cher ami de Guillaume le Conquerant!" I was
+unwilling to trespass long; but I soon found the advantage of making use of
+the name of "Monsieur Mouton--l'estimable Cure de la Sainte Trinite."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In a stroll to Guibray, towards sunset the next day, I passed through a
+considerable portion of the Count's property, about 300 acres, chiefly of
+pasture land. The evening was really enchanting; and through the branches
+of the coppice wood the sun seemed to be setting in a bed of molten gold.
+Our conversation was animated and incessant. In the old and curious church
+of Guibray, the Count shewed us his family pew with the care and
+particularity of an old country squire. Meanwhile Mr. Lewis was making a
+hasty copy of one of the very singular ornaments--representing _Christ
+bearing his cross_--which was suspended against the walls of the altar of a
+side chapel. You have it here. It is frightfully barbarous, and
+characteristic of the capricious style of art which frequently prevailed
+about the year 1520: but the wonder is, how such a wretched performance
+could obtain admission into the sanctuary where it was deposited. It was
+however the pious gift of the vestry woman--who shewed us the interior--and
+who had religiously rescued it, during the Revolution, from the demolition
+of a neighbouring abbey. The eastern end of this church is perhaps as old
+as any ecclesiastical edifice in Normandy;[171] and its exterior (to which
+we could only approach by wading through rank grass as high as our knees)
+is one of the most interesting of its kind. During our admiration of all
+that was curious in this venerable edifice, we were struck by our old
+friends, the _penitents_,--busy in making confession. In more than one
+confessional there were two penitents; and towards one of these, thus
+doubly attended, I saw a very large, athletic, hard-visaged priest
+hastening, just having slipt on his surplice in the vestry. Indeed I had
+been cursorily introduced to him by the Count. It was Saturday evening, and
+the ensuing Sunday was to be marked by some grand procession.
+
+The village-like town of Guibray presents a most singular sight to the eye
+of a stranger. There are numerous little narrow streets, with every window
+closed by wooden shutters, and every door fastened. It appears as if the
+plague had recently raged there, and that the inhabitants had quitted it
+for ever. Not a creature is visible: not a sound is heard: not a mouse
+seems to be stirring. And yet Guibray boasts of the LARGEST FAIR in France,
+save one![172] This, my friend, precisely accounts for the aspect of
+desolation just described. During the intervals of these _triennial_ fairs,
+the greater part of the village is uninhabited: venders and purchasers
+flocking and crowding by hundreds when they take place. In a short, narrow
+street--where nothing animated was to be seen--the Count assured me that
+sometimes, in the course of one morning, several millions of francs were
+spent in the purchase of different wares. We left this very strange place
+with our minds occupied by a variety of reflections: but at any rate highly
+pleased and gratified by the agreeable family which had performed the part
+of guides on the occasion. In the evening, a professor of music treated us
+with some pleasing tunes upon the guitar--which utterly astonished the
+Count--and it was quite night-fall when we returned homewards, towards our
+quarters at the hotel of the _Grand Turc_.
+
+A memorable incident occurred in our way homewards; which, when made known,
+will probably agitate the minds and shake the faith of two-thirds of the
+members of our Society of Antiquaries. You may remember that I told you,
+when at Caen, that the Abbe De la Rue had notified to me what were the
+objects more particularly deserving of attention in my further progress
+through Normandy. Among these, he particularly mentioned a figure or head
+of William the Conqueror at Falaise. In the _Place St. Gervais_, this
+wonderful head was said to exist--and to exist there only. It was at the
+house of an Innkeeper--certainly not moving in the highest circle of his
+calling. I lost little time in visiting it; and found it situated at the
+top of a dark narrow staircase, projecting from the wall, to the right,
+just before you reach the first floor. Some sensation had been excited by
+the enquiries, which I had previously set on foot; and on a second visit,
+several people were collected to receive us. Lights, warm water, towels,
+soap and brushes, were quickly put in requisition. I commenced operations
+with a kitchen knife, by carefully scraping away all the layers of hardened
+white and ochre washes, with which each generation had embedded and almost
+obliterated every feature. By degrees, the hair became manifest: then
+followed the operation of soap and water--which brought out the features of
+the face; and when the eyes fully and distinctly appeared, the exclamation
+of "_Mon Dieu_!" by the spectators, was loud and unremitting. The nose had
+received a serious injury by having its end broken off. Anon, stood forth
+the mouth; and when the "whiskered majesty" of the beard became evident, it
+was quite impossible to repress the simultaneous ejaculation of joy and
+astonishment ... "_Voila le vrai portrait de Guillaume le Conquerant_!
+
+The whiskers apparently denote it to be rather _Saxon_ than _Norman_. The
+head is nearly eleven inches in length, by seven and a half in width: is
+cut upon a very coarse, yet hard-grained stone--and rests upon a square,
+unconnected stone:--embedded within the wall. If it ever had shoulders and
+body, those shoulders and body were no part of the present appendages of
+the head. What then, is the Abbe de la Rue in error? The more liberal
+inference will be, that the Abbe de la Rue had never seen it. As to its
+antiquity, I am prepared to admit it to be very considerable; and, if you
+please, even before the period of the loves of the father and mother of the
+character whom it is supposed to represent. In the morning, Madame Rolle
+seemed disposed to take ten louis (which I freely offered her) for her
+precious fragment: but the distinct, collected view of whiskers, mouth,
+nose, eyes, and hair, instantaneously raised the quicksilver of her
+expectations to "_quinze_ louis pour le moins!" That was infinitely "trop
+fort"--and we parted without coming to any terms. Perhaps you will laugh at
+me for the previous offer.
+
+The church of St. Gervais is called the mother church of the town: and it
+is right that you should have some notion of it. It stands upon a finely
+elevated situation. Its interior is rather capacious: but it has no very
+grand effect-arising from simplicity or breadth of architecture. The
+pillars to the right of the nave, on entering from the western extremity,
+are doubtless old; perhaps of the beginning of the thirteenth century. The
+arches are a flattened semicircle; while those on the opposite side are
+comparatively sharp, and of a considerably later period. The ornaments of
+the capitals of these older pillars are, some of them, sufficiently
+capricious and elaborate; while others are of a more exceptionable
+character on the score of indelicacy. But this does not surprise a man who
+has been accustomed to examine ART, of the middle centuries, whether in
+sculpture or in painting. The side aisles are comparatively modern. The
+pillars of the choir have scarcely any capitals beyond a simple rim or
+fillet; and are surmounted by sharp low arches, like what are to be seen at
+St. Lo and Coutances. The roof of the left side aisle is perfectly green
+from damp: the result, as at Coutances, of thereof having been stripped for
+the sake of the lead to make bullets, &c. during the Revolution. I saw this
+large church completely filled on Sunday, at morning service--about eleven:
+and, in the congregation, I observed several faces and figures, of both
+sexes, which indicated great intelligence and respectability. Indeed there
+was much of the air of a London congregation about the whole.
+
+From the Church, we may fairly make any thing but a digression--in
+discoursing of one of its brightest ornaments, in the person of Monsieur
+LANGEVIN:--a simple priest--as he styles himself in an octavo volume, which
+entitles him to the character of the best living HISTORIAN OF FALAISE. He
+is a mere officiating minister in the church of Mons. Mouton; and his
+salary, as he led me to infer, could be scarcely twenty louis per annum.
+Surely this man is among the most amiable and excellent of God's creatures!
+But it is right that you should know the origin and progress of our
+acquaintance. It was after dinner, on one of the most industriously spent
+of my days here--and the very second of my arrival,--that the waiter
+announced the arrival of the Abbe Langevin, in the passage, with a copy of
+his History beneath his arm. The door opened, and in walked the
+stranger--habited in his clerical garb--with a physiognomy so benign and
+expressive, and with manners so gentle and well-bred,--that I rose
+instinctively from my seat to give him the most cordial reception. He
+returned my civility in a way which shewed at once that he was a man of the
+most interesting simplicity of character. "He was aware (he said) that he
+had intruded; but as he understood "Monsieur was in pursuit of the
+antiquities of the place, he had presumed to offer for his acceptance a
+copy of a work upon that subject--of which he was the humble author." This
+work was a good sized thick crown octavo, filling five hundred closely and
+well-printed pages; and of which the price was _fifty sous_! The worthy
+priest, seeing my surprise on his mentioning the price, supposed that I had
+considered it as rather extravagant. But this error was rectified in an
+instant. I ordered _three copies_ of his historical labours, and told him
+my conscience would not allow me to pay him less than _three francs_ per
+copy. He seemed to be electrified: rose from his seat:--and lifting up one
+of the most expressive of countenances, with eyes apparently suffused with
+tears--raised both his hands, and exclaimed.... "Que le bon Dieu vous
+benisse--les Anglois sont vraiement genereux!"
+
+For several seconds I sat riveted to my seat. Such an unfeigned and warm
+acknowledgment of what I had considered as a mere matter-of-course
+proposition, perfectly astounded me: the more so, as it was accompanied by
+a gesture and articulation which could not fail to move any bosom--not
+absolutely composed of marble. We each rallied, and resumed the
+conversation. In few but simple words he told me his history. He had
+contrived to weather out the Revolution, at Falaise. His former preferment
+had been wholly taken from him; and he was now a simple assistant in the
+church of Mons. Mouton. He had yielded without resistance; as even
+_remonstrance_ would have been probably followed up by the guillotine. To
+solace himself in his afflictions, he had recourse to his old favourite
+studies of _medicine_ and _music_;--and had in fact practised the former.
+"But come, Sir, (says he) come and do me the honour of a call--when it
+shall suit you." I settled it for the ensuing day. On breaking up and
+taking leave, the amiable stranger modestly spoke of his History. It had
+cost him three years' toil; and he seemed to mention, with an air of
+triumph, the frequent references in it to the _Gallia Christiana_, and to
+_Chartularies_ and _Family Records_ never before examined. On the next day
+I carried my projected visit into execution--towards seven in the evening.
+The lodgings of M. Langevin are on the second floor of a house belonging to
+a carpenter. The worthy priest received me on the landing-place, in the
+most cheerful and chatty manner. He has three small rooms on the same
+floor. In the first, his library is deposited. On my asking him to let me
+see what _old books_ he possessed, he turned gaily round, and
+replied--"Comment donc, Monsieur, vous aimez les vieux livres? A ca,
+voyons!" Whereupon he pulled away certain strips or pieces of wainscot, and
+shewed me his book-treasures within the recesses. On my recognising a
+_Colinaeus_ and _Henry Stephen_, ere he had read the title of the volumes,
+he seemed to marvel exceedingly, and to gaze at me as a conjuror. He
+betrayed more than ordinary satisfaction on shewing his _Latin Galen_ and
+_Hippocrates_; and the former, to the best of my recollection, contained
+Latin notes in the margin, written by himself. These tomes were followed up
+by a few upon _alchymy_ and _astrology_; from which, and the consequent
+conversation, I was led to infer that the amiable possessor entertained due
+respect for those studies which had ravished our DEES and ASHMOLES of old.
+
+In the second room stood an upright piano forte--the _manufacture_, as well
+as the property, of Monsieur Langevin. It bore the date of 1806; and was
+considered as the first of the kind introduced into Normandy. It was
+impossible not to be struck with the various rational sources of amusement,
+by means of which this estimable character had contrived to beguile the
+hours of his misfortunes. There was a calm, collected, serenity of manner
+about him--a most unfeigned and unqualified resignation to the divine
+will--which marked him as an object at once of admiration and esteem.
+There was no boast--no cant--no formal sermonising. You _saw_ what
+religion had done for him. Her effects _spake_ in his discourse and in
+his life.... Over his piano hung a portrait of himself; very
+indifferently executed--and not strongly resembling the original. "We
+can do something more faithful than this, sir, if you will allow
+it"--said I, pointing to Mr. Lewis: and it was agreed that he should
+give the latter a sitting on the morrow. The next day M. Langevin came
+punctually to his appointment, for the purpose of having his portrait
+taken.
+
+On telling this original that the pencil drawing of Mr. Lewis (which by the
+bye was executed in about an hour and a half) should be
+_engraved_--inasmuch as he was the modern _Historian of Falaise_--he seemed
+absolutely astonished. He moved a few paces gently forwards, and turning
+round, with hands and eyes elevated, exclaimed, in a tremulous and
+heart-stricken tone of voice, "Ah, mon Dieu!" I will not dissemble that I
+took leave of him with tears, which were with difficulty concealed. "Adieu,
+pour toujours!"--were words which he uttered with all the sincerity, and
+with yet more pathos, than was even shewn by Pierre Aime Lair at Caen. The
+landlord and landlady of this hotel are warm in their commendations of him:
+assuring me that his name is hardly ever pronounced without the mention of
+his virtues. He has just entered his sixty-second year.[173]
+
+It remains only to give an account of the progress of Printing and of
+Literature in this place: although the latter ought to precede the former.
+As a literary man, our worthy acquaintance the Comte de la Fresnaye takes
+the lead: yet he is rather an amateur than a professed critic. He has
+written upon the antiquities of the town; but his work is justly considered
+inferior to that of Monsieur Langevin. He quotes _Wace_ frequently, and
+with apparent satisfaction; and he promises a French version of his beloved
+_Ingulph_. Falaise is a quiet, dull place of resort, for those who form
+their notions of retirement as connected with the occasional bustle and
+animation of Caen and Rouen. But the situation is pleasing. The skies are
+serene: the temperature is mild, and the fruits of the earth are abundant
+and nutritious. Many of the more respectable inhabitants expressed their
+surprise to me that there were so few English resident in its
+neighbourhood--so much preferable, on many accounts to that of Caen. But
+our countrymen, you know, are sometimes a little capricious in the objects
+of their choice. Just now, it is the _fashion_ for the English to reside at
+Caen; yet when you consider that the major part of our countrymen reside
+there for the purpose of educating their children--and that Caen, from its
+numerous seminaries of education, contains masters of every description,
+whose lessons are sometimes as low as a frank for each--it is not
+surprising that Falaise is deserted for the former place. For myself--and
+for all those who love a select society, a sweet country, and rather a
+plentiful sprinkle of antiquarian art,--for such, in short, who would read
+the fabliaux of the old Norman bards in peace, comfort, and silence--there
+can be no question about the preference to be given to the spot from which
+I send this my last Norman despatch.
+
+I have before made mention of the fountains in this place. They are equally
+numerous and clear. The inn in which we reside has not fewer than three
+fountains--or rather of _jets d'eau_--constantly playing. Those in the
+_Place St. Trinite Grand Rue_, and _Place St. Gervais_, are the largest;
+but every gutter trickles with water as if dissolved from the purest
+crystal. It has been hot weather during the greater part of our stay; and
+the very sight of these translucent streams seems to refresh one's languid
+frame. But I proceed chiefly to the productions of the PRESS. They do a
+good deal of business here in the way of ephemeral publications. Letellier,
+situated in the Grande Rue, is the chief printer of _chap books_: and if we
+judge from the general character of these, the _Falaisois_ seem to be
+marvellously addicted to the effusions of the muse. Indeed, their ballads,
+of all kinds, are innumerable. Read a few--which are to be found in the
+very commonest publications. There is something rather original, and of a
+very pleasingly tender cast, in the first two:
+
+  LE BAISER D'ADIEUX.
+
+  Pres de toi l'heure du mystere
+  Ne m'appellera plus demain,
+  Vers ta demeure solitaire
+  Mes pas me guideront en vain;
+  J'ai respire ta douce haleine,
+  Et des pleurs ont mouille mes yeux,
+  J'ai tout senti, plaisir et peine,  )
+  J'ai recu ton baiser d'adieux.      ) _bis._
+
+    Tu pars, et malgre ta promesse
+  Rien ne m'assure de ta foi,
+  Nul souvenir de ta tendresse
+  Ne vient me dire: Pense a moi.
+  Ton amour qu'envain je reclame
+  Ne me laisse, en quittant ces lieux,
+  Que Phumide et brulante flamme
+  De ton dernier baiser d'adieux.
+
+    Puisse au moins ton indifference
+  Te garder d'un nouvel amour.
+  Et le veuvage de l'absence
+  Hater ton fortune retour!
+  Puisse alors l'amant qui t'adore,
+  Te revoyant aux memes lieux,
+  Sur tes levres vierges encore
+  Retrouver son baiser d'adieux!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+  L'IMAGE DE LA VIE.
+
+  Nous naissons et dans notre coeur,
+  A peine aux portes de la vie,
+  Tout au plaisir, tout au bonheur,
+  Et nous invite et nous convie;
+  D'abord, simples amusements
+  Savent contenter notre enfance;
+  Mais bientot aux jeux innocens,
+  L'amour nous prend ... sans qu'on y pense.
+
+  Fillette a l'age de quinze ans,
+  Offre l'image de la rose,
+  Qui des l'approche du printemps,
+  Entr'ouvre sa feuille mi-close;
+  Bientot l'aiguillon du desir
+  Vient ouvrir fleur d'innocence,
+  Et sous la bouche du plaisir,
+  Elle s'eclot ... sans qu'elle y pense.
+
+  Vous, qui pendant vos jeunes ans,
+  Ne courtisez pas la folie,
+  Songez donc que cet heureux temps
+  Ne dure pas toute la vie,
+  Assez vite il nous faut quitter
+  Tendres ardeurs, vives jouissances;
+  Et dans uu coeur qui sait aimer,
+  La raison vient ... sans qu'on y pense.
+
+  Mais enfin, sur l'aile du temps,
+  On arrive au but du voyage,
+  Et l'on voit la glace des ans,
+  Couronner nos fronts a cet age;
+  S'il fut sensible a la pitie,
+  S'il cultiva la bienfaisance,
+  Entre les bras de l'amitie
+  L'homme finit ... sans qu'il y pense
+
+You must know that they are here great lovers of royalty, and of course
+great supporters of the Bourbon Family. The King's printer is a Mons. BREE
+l'Aine. He is a very pleasant, well-bred man, and lives in the _Place
+Trinite_. I have paid him more than one visit, and always felt additional
+pleasure at every repetition of it. My first visit was marked with a
+somewhat ludicrous circumstance. On entering the compositors' room, I
+observed, pasted upon the walls, in large capital letters, the following
+well known words:
+
+  GOD SAVE THE KING.
+
+Both Monsieur Bree l'Aine--and his workmen were equally gratified by my
+notice and commendation of this sentiment. "It is the favourite sentiment,
+Sir, of your country,"--remarked the master. To this I readily assented.
+"It is also, Sir, the favourite one of our own," replied M. Bree
+l'Aine--and his men readily attested their concurrence in the same reply.
+"Ah, Sir, if you would only favour us by _singing the air_, to which these
+words belong, you would infinitely oblige us all" ... said a shrewd and
+intelligent-looking compositor. "With all my heart"--rejoined I--"but I
+must frankly tell you, that I shall sing it rather with heart than with
+voice--being neither a vocal nor an instrumental performer." "No matter:
+give us only a notion of it." They all stood round in a circle, and I got
+through two stanzas as gravely and as efficiently as I was able. The usual
+"charmant!" followed my exertions. It was now my turn to ask a favour.
+"Sing to me your favourite national air of ROBERT and ARLETTE." "Most
+willingly, Sir," replied the forementioned "shrewd and intelligent-looking
+compositor." "Tenez: un petit moment: je vais chercher mon violon. Ca ira
+mieux."
+
+He left the house in search of his violin. The tune of the National air
+which he sung was both agreeable and lively: and upon the whole it was
+difficult to say which seemed to be the better pleased with the respective
+national airs. M. Bree shewed me his premises in detail. They had been
+formerly a portion of an old church; and are situated on the edge of the
+great fosse which encircles the town. A garden, full of sweet blooming
+flowers, is behind them; and the view backwards is cheerful and
+picturesque. There are generally five presses at work; which, for a
+provincial printing office, shews business to be far from slack. Mons. B.
+sells a great number of almanacks, and prints all the leading publications
+connected with the town. In fact, his title, as _Imprimeur du Roi_,
+supposes him to take the principal lead as a printer. This agreeable man
+has a brother who is professor of rhetoric in the College Royale at Paris.
+
+Of _Bouquinistes_, or dealers in old books, there are scarcely any. I spent
+three or four fruitless hours in a search after old chronicles and old
+poetry: and was compelled, almost from pure civility, to purchase of
+DUFOURS a _Petit's Virgil_ of 1529, folio--which will be hardly worth the
+carriage. I tried hard for a fine copy of _Fauchet's Origines de la Poesie
+Francoise_, 1581, 4to. with the head of the author, but in vain; yet
+endeavoured to console myself by an old blue morocco copy of _Les regrets
+et tristes lamentations du Comte de Montgomery_, by _Demorenne_, Rouen,
+1574, 8vo. as well as a clean, fresh, and almost crackling copy of
+_Amoureuses occupations de la Taysonniere_, Lyon, 1555, 8vo.--for two
+francs each--and both destined for the rich and choice library of our
+friend....
+
+Thus much for FALAISE: for a spot, which, from the uniform serenity of the
+weather since I have been here--from the comfort of the inn--from the
+extreme civility and attention of the townspeople--and from the yet more
+interesting society of the Comte de la Fresnaye, the _Cures_ Mouton and
+Langevin--together with the amenity of the surrounding country, and the
+interesting and in part magnificent remains of antiquity--can never be
+erased from my recollection. It is here that the tourist and antiquary may
+find objects for admiration and materials for recording. I have done both:
+admired and recorded--happy, if the result of such occupations shall have
+contributed to the substantial gratification of yourself and of our common
+friends. And now, farewell; not only to Falaise, but to NORMANDY. I shall
+leave it, from this delightful spot, in the most thorough good humour, and
+with more than ordinary regret that my stay has necessarily been short. I
+have taken my place in the Diligence, direct for PARIS. "Il n'y a qu'un
+Paris"--said the Comte de la Fresnaye to me the other day, when I told him
+I had never been there--to which I replied, "Are there then TWO Londons?"
+Thirty-six hours will settle all this. In the mean time, adieu.
+
+
+[169] On the return of Louis the XVIII. the town of Falaise manifested its
+    loyalty in the most unequivocal manner.
+
+      COUPLETS
+
+      _Chantes par les Eleves du College de Falaise, en arborant le
+      Drapeau Blanc_.
+
+      Air: _Un Soldat par un coup funeste_.
+
+        Loin de nous la sombre tristesse,
+        Mars a depose sa fureur;
+        Enfin la foudre vengeresse
+        Vient de terrasser _l'opresseur,_
+            L'aigle sanguinaire
+        Succombe a l'aspect de ces LYS.
+      Peuple francais, tu vas revoir ton Pere!
+        Vive le Roi! Vive LOUIS!
+
+        Drapeau, que d'horribles tempetes
+        Avoient eloigne de ces lieux,
+        Tu reviens embellir nos Fetes,
+        Plus brillant et plus radieux!
+            Ta douce presence
+        Ramene les jeux et les ris;
+      Sois a jamais l'Etendard de la France,
+        Vive le Roi! vive LOUIS!
+
+        O Dieu! vengeur de l'innocence,
+        Protege ces LYS glorieux!
+        Conserve long-temps a la France
+        LE ROI que tu rends a nos voeux!
+            Si la perfidie
+        De nouveau troubloit ton bonheur
+      Viens nous guider, o Banniere cherie!
+        Nous volerons au champ d'honneur.
+
+[170] The worthy historian of Falaise, quoted in a preceding page, is
+    exceedingly anxious to make us believe that there are portions of this
+    church--namely, four stones--in the eastern and western gable
+    ends--which were used in the consecration of it, by MATHILDA, the wife
+    of our first William. Also, that, at the gable end of the south
+    transept, outside, an ancient grotto,--in which the Gallic priests of
+    old purified themselves for the mysteries of their religion--is now
+    converted into the sacristy, or vestry, or robing room. But these are
+    surely mere antiquarian dreams. The same author more sagaciously
+    informs us that the exact period of the commencement of the building
+    of the nave, namely in 1438, is yet attested by an existing
+    inscription, in gothic letters, towards the chief door of entrance.
+    The inscription also testifies that in the same year, "there reigned
+    DEATH, WAR, and FAMINE." The _chancel of the choir_, with the
+    principal doors of entrance, &c. were constructed between the years
+    1520, and 1540. It may be worth remarking that the stalls of the choir
+    were brought from the Abbey of St. John--on the destruction of that
+    monastic establishment in 1729; and that, according to the _Gallia
+    Christiana_, vol. xi. p. 756, these stalls were carved at the desire
+    of Thomas II. de Mallebiche, abbot of that establishment in 1506-1516.
+    In a double niche of the south buttress are the statues of HERPIN and
+    his WIFE; rich citizens of Falaise, who, by their wealth, greatly
+    contributed to the building of the choir. (Their grandson, HERPIN
+    LACHENAYE, together with his mistress were killed, side by side, in
+    fighting at one of the gates of Falaise to repel the successful troops
+    of Henry IV.) The _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir, was
+    completed about the year 1631. LANGEVIN, p. 81-128-131.
+
+[171] We have of course nothing to do with the first erection of a place of
+    worship at Guibray in the VIIIth century. The story connected with the
+    earliest erection is this. The faubourg of Guibray, distant about 900
+    paces from Falaise, was formerly covered with chestnut and oak trees.
+    A sheep, scratching the earth, as if by natural instinct (I quote the
+    words of M. Langevin the historian of Falaise) indicated, by its
+    bleatings, that something was beneath. The shepherd approached, and
+    hollowing out the earth with his crook, discovered a statue of the
+    Virgin, with a child in its arms. The first church, dedicated to the
+    Virgin, under the reign of Charles Martel, called the Victorious, was
+    in consequence erected--on this very spot--in the centre of this
+    widely spreading wood of chestnut and oak. I hasten to the
+    construction of a second church, on the same site, under the auspices
+    of Mathilda, the wife of the Conqueror: with the statue of a woman
+    with a diadem upon her head--near one of the pillars: upon which
+    statue Langevin discourses learnedly in a note. But neither this
+    church nor the statue in question are now in existence. On the
+    contrary, the oldest portions of the church of Guibray, now
+    existing--according to the authors of the _Gallia Christiana_, vol.
+    xi. p. 878, and an ancient MS. consulted by M. Langevin--are of about
+    the date of 1222; when the church was consecrated by the Bishop of
+    Coutances. The open space towards the south, now called _La Place aux
+    Chevaux_, was the old burying ground of the church. There was also a
+    chapel, dedicated to St. Gervais, which was pillaged and destroyed by
+    the Hugonots in 1562. I should add, that the South-East exterior
+    (behind the chancel) of this very curious old church at Guibray,
+    resembles, upon a small scale, what M. Cotman has published of the
+    same portion of St. Georges de Bocherville. _Recherches sur Falaise_,
+    p. 49-53. Monsieur le Comte de la Fresnaye, in his _Notice Historique
+    sur Falaise_, 1816, 8vo. will have it, that "the porch of this church,
+    the only unmutilated portion remaining of its ancient structure,
+    demonstrates the epoch of the origin of Christianity among the Gauls."
+    "At least, such is the decision of M. Deveze, draftsman for Laborde;
+    the latter of whom now Secretary to the Count d'Artois, instituted a
+    close examination of the whole fabric." p. 5-6. I hope there are not
+    many such conclusions to be found in the magnificent and meritorious
+    productions of LABORDE.
+
+[172] This fair lasts full fifteen days. The first eight days are devoted
+    to business of a more important nature--which they call the GREAT
+    WEEK: that is to say, the greatest number of merchants attend during
+    the earlier part of it; and contracts of greater extent necessarily
+    take place. The remaining seven days are called the LITTLE WEEK--in
+    which they make arrangements to carry their previous bargains into
+    effect, and to return home. Men and merchandise, from all quarters,
+    and of all descriptions, are to be seen at this fair. Even Holland and
+    Germany are not wanting in sending their commercial representatives.
+    Jewellery and grocery seem to be the chief articles of commerce; but
+    there is a prodigious display of silk, linen, and cotton, &c.: as well
+    as of hides, raw and tanned; porcelaine and earthen ware. The live
+    cattle market must not be forgotten. Langevin says that, of horses
+    alone, they sometimes sell full four thousand. Thus much for the buyer
+    and seller. But this fair is regularly enlivened by an immense
+    confluence of nobility and gentry from the adjacent country--to
+    partake of the amusements, which, (as with the English,) form the
+    invariable appendages of the scene. Langevin mentions the minor fairs
+    of _Ste. Croix, St. Michel_, and _St. Gervais_, which help to bring
+    wealth into the pockets of the inhabitants. _Recherches Historiques
+    sur Falaise_; p. 199, &c.
+
+[173] [Since the publication of this Tour, the amiable Mons. Langevin has
+    published "additions" to his historical account of Falaise; and in
+    those additions, he has been pleased to notice the account which is
+    HERE given of his labours and character. It would be bad--at least
+    hardly justifiable--taste, to quote that notice: yet I cannot
+    dissemble the satisfaction to find that there is _more_ than ONE
+    sympathising heart in Normandy, which appreciates this record of its
+    excellence. I subjoin, therefore, with the greatest satisfaction, a
+    fac-simile of the autograph of this amiable and learned man, as it
+    appears written (at my request) in the title-page of a copy of his
+    "Researches."
+
+    [Illustration: Langevin ptre.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+JOURNEY TO PARIS. DREUX. HOUDAN. VERSAILLES. ENTRANCE INTO PARIS.
+
+_Paris, Rue Faubourg Poissoniere, May_ 30, 1819.
+
+"Time and the hour runs through the roughest day." They must be protacted
+miseries indeed which do not, at some period or other, have something like
+a termination. I am here, then my good friend--safe and sound at last;
+comfortably situated in a boarding house, of which the mistress is an
+agreeable Englishwoman and the master an intelligent Swiss. I have
+sauntered, gazed, and wondered--and exchanged a thousand gracious
+civilities! I have delivered my epistolary credentials: have shaken hands
+with Monsieur Van Praet; have paced the suite of rooms in which the
+renowned BIBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI is deposited: have traversed the _Thuileries_
+and the _Louvre_; repeatedly reconnoitred the _Boulevards_; viewed the gilt
+dome of the _Hotel des Invalides_, and the white flag upon the
+bronze-pillar in the _Place Vendome_; seen crowds of our countrymen at
+_Meurice's_ and in the hotels about the _Rue de la Paix;_ partaken of the
+rival ices of _Tortoni_ and the _Caffe des Mille Colonnes_; bought old
+French poetry at a Bouquiniste's: and drank Chambertin and Champagne at the
+richly garnished table of our ----. These are what may be called good
+_foreground objects_ in the composition of a Parisian picture. Now for the
+filling up of the canvas with appropriate and harmonizing detail.
+
+A second reflection corrects however the precipitancy of such a proposal;
+for it cannot be, in this my _first_ despatch, that you are to receive any
+thing like an adequate notion of the topics thus hastily thrown together on
+the first impulse of Parisian inspiration. Wait patiently, therefore: and
+at least admire the methodical precision of my narrative. My last letter
+left me on the eve of departure from Falaise; and it is precisely from that
+place that I take up the thread of my journal. We were to leave it, as I
+told you, in the Diligence--on the evening of the Sunday, immediately
+following the date of the despatch transmitted. I shall have reason to
+remember that journey for many a day to come; but, "post varios casus, &c."
+I am thankful to find myself safely settled in my present comfortable
+abode. The Sabbath, on the evening of which the Diligence usually starts
+for Paris, happened to be a festival. Before dawn of day I heard incessant
+juvenile voices beneath the window of my bedroom at the Grand Turc; What
+might this mean? Between three and four, as the day began to break, I rose,
+and approaching the window, saw, from thence, a number of little boys and
+girls busied in making artificial flower-beds and sand-borders, &c. Their
+tongues and their bodily movements were equally unintermitting. It was
+impossible for a stranger to guess at the meaning of such a proceeding;
+but, opening the window, I thought there could be no harm in asking a very
+simple question--which I will confess to you was put in rather an irritable
+manner on my part ... for I had been annoyed by their labours for more than
+the last hour. "What are you about, there?" I exclaimed--"Ha, is it you
+Sir?" replied a little arch boy--mistaking me for some one else. "Yes,
+(resumed I) tell me what you are about there?" "in truth, we are making
+_Reposoirs_ for the FETE-DIEU: the Host will pass this way by and bye. Is
+it not a pretty thing, Sir?" exclaimed a sweetly modulated female voice.
+All my irritability was softened in a moment; and I was instantly convinced
+that Solomon never delivered a wiser sentiment than when he said--"A soft
+answer turneth away wrath!" I admitted the prettiness of the thing without
+comprehending a particle of it: and telling them to speak in a lower key,
+shut the window, and sought my bed. But sleep had ceased to seek me: and
+the little urchins, instead of lowering their voices, seemed to break forth
+in a more general and incessant vociferation. In consequence, I was almost
+feverish from restlessness--when the fille de chambre announced that "it
+was eight o'clock, and the morning most beautiful."
+
+These _reposoirs_ are of more importance than you are aware of. They
+consist of little spots, or spaces in the streets, garnished with flowers,
+and intersected by walks, marked with fine gravel, in the centre of which
+the Host rests, on its passing to and fro from the several parishes. When I
+rose to dress, I observed the work of art--which had been in progress
+during the night--perfectly complete. Passengers were forbidden to trespass
+by pieces of string fastened to different parts by way of a fence--or,
+whoever chose to walk within, considered themselves bound to deposit a sous
+as the condition of gratifying their curiosity. Upon the whole, this
+reposoir might be about sixteen feet square. Towards eleven o'clock the
+different religious ceremonies began. On one side the noise of the drum,
+and the march of the national guard, indicated that military mass was about
+to be performed; on the other, the procession of priests, robed and
+officiating--the elevation of banners--and the sonorous responses of both
+laity and clergy--put the whole town into agitation, and made every inmate
+of every mansion thrust his head out of window, to gaze at the passing
+spectacle. We were among the latter denomination of lookers on, and
+recognised, with no small gratification, our clerical friends Messieurs
+Mouton, Langevin, and the huge father confessor at Guibra, followed by a
+great number of respectable citizens, among whom the Comte de la Fresnaye
+and his amiable and intelligent son (recently married) made most
+respectable figures; They approached the reposoir in question. The priests,
+with the Host, took their station within it; silence followed; one
+officiating clergyman then knelt down; shut, what seemed to be, the wooden
+covers of a book,--with, considerable violence--rose--turned round, and the
+procession being again put in motion--the whole marched away to the church
+of the Holy Trinity;--whither I followed it; and where I witnessed what I
+was unable to comprehend, and what I should not feel much disposed to
+imitate. But let every country be allowed to reverence and respect its own
+particular religious ceremonies. We may endure what we cannot commend ...
+and insult and disrespect are among the last actions which a well regulated
+mind will shew in its treatment of such matters. I should add, that these
+reposoirs, a few hours after the performance of the ceremony just
+described, are indiscriminately broken up: the flowers and the little sand
+banks falling equally a prey to the winds and the feet of the passenger.
+
+Opposite to the inn was an hospital for the female sick. It had been
+formerly an establishment of very considerable extent and celebrity; but
+whether it was originally connected with the hospital of the _Leproserie de
+Saint Lasare_, (about which the Abbe Langevin's History of Falaise is
+rather curious) the _Hotel-Dieu_, or the _Hopital General_, I cannot take
+upon me to pronounce. Certain it is, however, that this establishment does
+great credit to those who have the conduct of it. As foreigners, and
+particularly as Englishmen, we were permitted to see the whole, without
+reserve. On my return from witnessing the ceremony at the church of the
+Trinity, I visited this hospital: my companion having resumed his graphic
+operations before the Castle. I shall not easily forget the face and figure
+of the matron. To a countenance of masculine feature, and masculine
+complexion--including no ordinary growth of beard, of a raven tint--she
+added a sturdy, squat, muscular figure--which, when put into action, moved
+in a most decided manner. A large bunch of massive keys was suspended from
+a girdle at her side; and her dress, which was black, was rendered more
+characteristic and striking, by the appearance of, what are yet called,
+_bustles_ above her hips. As she moved, the keys and the floor seemed
+equally to shake beneath her steps. The elder Smirke would have painted
+this severe Duenna-like looking matron with inimitable force and truth.
+But ... she no sooner opened her mouth, than all traits of severity
+vanished. Her voice was even musical, and her "facon de parler" most
+gracious. She shewed me the whole establishment with equal good humour
+and alertness; and I don't know when I ever made such a number of bows
+(to the several female patients in the wards) within such limited time
+and space. The whole building has the air of a convent; and there were
+several architectural relics, perhaps of the end of the fifteenth
+century, which I only regretted were not of portable dimensions; as,
+upon making enquiry, little objection seemed to be made to the
+gratuitous disposal of them.
+
+The hour for departure, after sun-set, having arrived, we were summoned to
+the Diligence when, bidding adieu to the very worthy host and hostess of
+the _Grand Turc_, (whom I strongly recommend all Englishmen to visit) I
+made up my mind for a thirty-six hour's journey--as I was to reach Paris on
+Tuesday morning. The day had been excessively hot for the season of the
+year; and the night air was refreshing. But after a few snatches of
+sleep--greatly needed--there appeared manifest symptoms of decay and
+downfall in the gloomy and comfortless machine in which we took our
+departure. In other words, towards daylight, and just as we approached
+_L'Aigle_, the left braces (which proved to be thoroughly rotted leather)
+broke in two: and down slid, rather than tumbled, the Falaise Diligence!
+There were two French gentlemen, and an elderly lady, besides ourselves in
+the coach. While we halted, in order to repair the machine, the Frenchmen
+found consolation in their misfortune by running to a caffe, (it was
+between four and five in the morning), rousing the master and mistress, and
+as I thought, peremptorily and impertinently asking for coffee: while they
+amused themselves with billiards during its preparation. I was in no humour
+for eating, drinking, or playing: for here was a second sleepless night!
+Having repaired this crazy vehicle, we rumbled on for _Verneuil_; where it
+was exchanged for a diligence of more capacious dimensions. Here, about
+eleven o'clock, we had breakfast; and from henceforth let it not be said
+that the art of eating and drinking belongs exclusively to our
+country:--for such manifestations of appetite, and of attack upon
+substantials as well as fluids, I had scarcely ever before witnessed. I was
+well contented with coffee, tea, eggs, and bread--as who might not well
+be?... but my companions, after taking these in flank, cut through the
+centre of a roast fowl and a dish of stewed veal: making diversions, in the
+mean while, upon sundry bottles of red and white wine; the fingers, during
+the meal, being as instrumental as the white metal forks.
+
+We set off at a good round trot for _Dreux_: and, in the route thither, we
+ascended a long and steep hill, having _Nonancourt_ to the left. Here we
+saw some very pretty country houses, and the whole landscape had an air of
+English comfort and picturesque beauty about it. Here, too, for the first
+time, I saw a VINEYARD. At this early season of the year it has a most
+stiff and unseemly look; presenting to the eye scarcely any thing but the
+brown sticks, obliquely put into the ground, against which the vine is
+trained. But the sloping banks, on each side of the ascending road, were
+covered with plantations of this precious tree; and I was told that, if the
+_autumn_ should prove as auspicious as appeared the _spring_, there would
+be a season of equal gaiety and abundance. I wished it with all my heart.
+Indeed I felt particularly interested in the whole aspect of the country
+about _Nonancourt_. The sun was fast descending as we entered the town of
+_Dreux_--where I had resolved upon taking leave both of the diligence and
+of my companions; and of reaching Paris by post. At seven we dined, or
+rather perhaps made an early supper; when my fellow travellers _sustained_
+their reputation for their powers of attack upon fish, flesh, and fowl.
+Indeed the dinner was equally plentiful and well cooked; and the charge
+moderate in proportion. But there is nothing, either on the score of
+provision of reasonableness of cost, like the _table d'hote_ throughout
+France; and he who cannot accommodate himself to the hour of dining
+(usually about one) must make up his mind to worse fare and treble charges.
+
+After dinner we strolled in the town, and upon the heights near the castle.
+We visited the principal church, _St. Jean_, which is very spacious, and
+upon the whole is a fine piece of architecture. I speak more particularly
+of the interior--where I witnessed, however, some of the most horrible
+devastations, arising from the Revolution, which I had yet seen. In one of
+the side chapels, there _had been_ a magnificent monument; perhaps from
+sixteen to twenty feet in height--crowded with figures as large as life,
+from the base to the summit. It appeared as if some trenchant instrument of
+an irresistible force, had shaved away many of the figures; but more
+especially the heads and the arms. This was only one, but the most
+striking, specimen of revolutionary Vandalism. There were plenty of similar
+proofs, on a reduced scale. In the midst of these traces of recent havoc,
+there was a pleasure mingled with melancholy, in looking up and viewing
+some exceedingly pretty specimens of old stained glass:--which had escaped
+the destruction committed in the lower regions, and had preserved all their
+original freshness. Here and there, in the side chapels, the priests were
+robing themselves to attend confession; while the suppliants, in kneeling
+attitudes, were expecting them by the side of the confessionals. From the
+church I bent my steps to the principal bookseller of the place, whom I
+found to be an intelligent, civil, and extremely good-natured tradesman.
+But his stock was too modern. "Donnez vous la peine de monter"--exclaimed
+he precipitately; begging me to follow him. His up-stairs collection was
+scarcely of a more ancient character than that below. There were more
+copies of _Voltaire_ and _Rousseau_ than I should have supposed he could
+sell in six years--but "on the contrary" (said he) "in six months' time,
+not a single copy will remain unsold!" I marvelled and grieved at such
+intelligence; because the poison was not extracted from the nourishment
+contained in these works. To an enquiry about my old typographical friends,
+_Verard, Pigouchet_, and _Eustace_, the worthy bibliopole replied "qu'il
+n'avoit jamais entendu parler de ces gens-la!" Again I marvelled; and
+having no temptation to purchase, civilly wished him good evening.
+
+Meanwhile Mr. L. had attained the castle heights, and was lost in a sort of
+extacy at the surrounding scene. On entering the outer walls, and directing
+your steps towards the summit, you are enchanted with a beautiful
+architectural specimen--in the character of a zigzag early Norman
+arch--which had originally belonged to a small church, recently taken down:
+The arch alone stands insulated ... beyond which, a new, and apparently a
+very handsome, church is erecting, chiefly under the care and at the
+expence of the present Duke of Orleans;--as a mausoleum for his family--and
+in which, not many days before our arrival, the remains of one of his
+children had been deposited. I wished greatly for a perfect drawing of this
+arch ... but there was no time ... and my companion was exercising his
+pencil, on the summit, by a minute, bird's eye of the sweep of country to
+be seen from this elevated situation--through the greater part of which,
+indeed, the diligence from _Verneuil_ had recently conducted us. I should
+add, that not a relic of that CASTLE, which had once kept the town and the
+adjacent country in awe, is now to be seen: but its outer walls enclose a
+space hardly less than twenty acres:--the most considerable area which I
+had yet witnessed. To give a more interesting character to the scenery, the
+sun, broad and red, was just hiding the lower limb of his disk behind the
+edge of a purple hill. A quiet, mellow effect reigned throughout the
+landscape. I gazed on all sides; and (wherefore, I cannot now say) as I
+sunk upon the grass, overwhelmed with fatigue and the lassitude of two
+sleepless nights, wished, in my heart, I could have seen the effect of that
+glorious sun-set from, the heights of Dover. Now and then, as when at
+school, one feels a little home-sick; but the melancholy mood which then
+possessed me was purely a physical effect from a physical cause. The
+shadows of evening began to succeed to the glow of sun-set--when, starting
+from my recumbent position, (in which sleep was beginning to surprise me) I
+hastened down the heights, and by a nearer direction sought the town and
+our hotel. We retired betimes to rest--but not until, from an opposite
+coach maker, we had secured a phaeton-like carriage to convey us with post
+horses, the next day, to Paris.
+
+Excellent beds and undisturbed slumber put me in spirits for the grand
+entree into the metropolis of France. Breakfasting a little after
+nine--before ten, a pair of powerful black horses, one of which was
+surmounted by a sprucely-attired postilion--with the phaeton in the
+rear--were at the door of the hotel. Seeing all our baggage properly
+secured, we sprung into the conveyance and darted forward at a smart
+gallop. The animals seemed as if they could fly away with us--and the whip
+of the postilion made innumerable circular flourishes above their heads.
+The sky was beautifully clear: and a briskly-stirring, but not unpleasantly
+penetrating, south-east wind, played in our faces as we seemed scarcely to
+be sensible of the road. What a contrast to the heat, vexation, and general
+uncomfortableness of the two preceding days of our journey! We felt it
+sensibly, and enjoyed it in proportion. Our first place of halting, to
+change horses, was at HOUDAN; which may be about four leagues from Dreux;
+and I verily believe we reached it in an hour. The route thither is through
+a flat and uninteresting country; except that every feature of landscape
+(and more especially in our previous journeys through Normandy) seems to be
+thrown to a greater distance, than in England. This may account for the
+flatness of views, and the diminutiveness of objects. Houdan is a
+village-like town, containing a population of about 2000 inhabitants; but
+much business is done on market days; and of _corn_, in particular, I was
+told that they often sold several thousand sacks in a day. Its contiguity
+to Paris may account for the quantity of business done. In the outskirts of
+the town,--and flanked, rather than surrounded, by two or three rows of
+trees, of scarcely three years growth--stands the "stiff and stower"
+remains of the _Castle of Houdan_. It is a very interesting relic, and to
+our eyes appeared of an unusual construction. The corner towers are small
+and circular; and the intermediate portion of the outer wall is constructed
+with a swell, or a small curvature outwards. I paced the outside, but have
+forgotten the measurement. Certainly, it is not more than forty feet
+square. I tried to gain admittance into the interior, but without success,
+as the person possessing the key was not to be found. I saw enough,
+however, to convince me that the walls could not be less than twelve feet
+in thickness.
+
+The horses had been some time in readiness, and the fresh postilion seemed
+to be lost in amazement at the cause of our loitering so long at so
+insignificant a place. The day warmed as we pushed on for the far-famed
+"proud Versailles." The approach, from Houdan, is perhaps not the most
+favourable; although we got peeps of the palace, which gave us rather
+elevated notions of its enormous extent. We drove to the _Hotel de
+Bourbon_, an excellent, clean mansion, close to the very facade of the
+palace, after passing the Hotel de Ville; and from whence you have an
+undisturbed view of the broad, wide, direct road to Paris. I bespoke
+dinner, and prepared to lounge. The palace--of which I purposely declined
+visiting the interior--reserving Versailles for a future and entire day's
+gratification--is doubtless an immense fabric--of which the facade just
+mentioned is composed of brick, and assumes any thing but a grand and
+imposing air: merely because it wants simplicity and uniformity of design.
+I observed some charming white stone houses, scattered on each side of this
+widely extended chaussee--or route royale--and, upon the whole, Versailles
+appeared to us to be a magnificent and rather interesting spot. Two or
+three rows of trees, some forty or fifty generations more ancient than
+those constituting the boulevards at Houdan, formed avenues on each side of
+this noble road; and all appeared life and animation--savouring of the
+proximity of the metropolis. Carriages without number--chiefly upon hire,
+were going and returning; and the gaits and dresses of individuals were of
+a more studied and of a gayer aspect. At length, we became a little
+impatient for our dinner, and for the moment of our departure. We hired one
+of these carriages; which for nine francs, would convey us to the place of
+our destination. This appeared to me very reasonable; and after being
+extravagant enough to drink Champagne at dinner, to commemorate our near
+approach to the metropolis, we set forward between five and six o'clock,
+resolving to strain our eyes to the utmost, and to be astonished at every
+thing we saw!--especially as _this_ is considered the most favourable
+approach to the capital.
+
+The _Ecole Militaire_, to the left, of which Marshal Ney had once the chief
+command, struck me as a noble establishment. But it was on approaching
+_Sevre_ that all the bustle and population, attendant upon the immediate
+vicinity of a great metropolis, became evident. Single-horsed vehicles--in
+many of which not fewer than nine persons were pretty closely stowed--three
+upon a bench, and three benches under the roof--fiacres, barouches, and
+carriages of every description, among which we discovered a great number
+from our own country--did not fail to occupy our unremitting attention.
+_Sevre_ is a long, rambling, and chiefly single-street town; but
+picturesquely situated, on a slope, and ornamented to the left by the
+windings of the Seine. We were downright glad to renew our acquaintance
+with our old, and long-lost friend, the river Seine; although it appeared
+to be sadly shorn of its majestic breadth since we had parted with it
+before the walls of Montmorenci castle, in our route to Havre. The new
+nine-arch bridge at Sevre is a sort of Waterloo bridge in miniature. Upon
+the heights, above it, I learnt that there was a beautiful view of the
+river in the foreground with Paris in the distance. We passed over the old
+bridge, and saw _St. Cloud_ to the left: which of course interested us as
+the late residence of Bonaparte, but which, in truth, has nothing beyond
+the air of a large respectable country-gentleman's mansion in England. We
+pushed on, and began to have distinct perceptions of the great city. Of all
+the desirable places of retreat, whether for its elevated situation, or
+respectable appearance, or commodious neighbourhood, nothing struck me more
+forcibly than the village of PASSY, upon a commanding terrace, to the left;
+some three or four English miles from Paris--and having a noble view both
+of the river and of the city. It is also considered to be remarkably
+healthy; and carriages of every description, are constantly passing thither
+to and from Paris.
+
+The dome of the _Pantheon_, and the gilded one of the _Hotel des
+Invalides_, together with the stunted towers of _Notre Dame_, were among
+the chief objects to the right: while the accompaniment of the Seine,
+afforded a pleasing foreground to this architectural picture in the
+distance. But, my friend, I will frankly own to you, that I was
+disappointed ... upon this first glimpse of the GREAT city. In the first
+place, the surrounding country is flat; with the exception of _Mount
+Calvary,_ to the left, which has nothing to do with the metropolitan view
+from this situation. In the second place, what are the _Pantheon_ and
+_Notre Dame_ compared with _St. Paul's_ and _Westminster Abbey_?--to say
+nothing of the vicinity of London, as is connected with the beautifully
+undulating ground about Camberwell, Sydenham, Norwood, and. Shooter's
+Hill--and, on the other side of the water, Hampstead, Highgate and
+Harrow: again, Wimbledon and Richmond!... What lovely vicinities are
+these compared with that of _Mont Martre_? And if you take river scenery
+into the account, what is the _Seine_, in the neighbourhood of Paris,
+compared with the _Thames_ in that of London? If the almost impenetrable
+smoke and filth from coal-fires were charmed away--shew me, I beseech
+you, any view of Paris, from this, or from any point of approach, which
+shall presume to bear the semblance of comparison with that of London,
+from the descent from _Shooter's Hill_! The most bewitched
+Frenchified-Englishman, in the perfect possession of his eye sight, will
+not have the temerity to institute such a comparison. But as you near
+the barriers, your admiration increases. Having got rid of all
+background of country--as you approach the capital--the foregoing
+objections vanish. Here the officers of police affected to search our
+luggage. They were heartily welcome, and so I told them. This disarmed
+all suspicion. Accordingly we entered Paris by one of the noblest and
+one of the most celebrated of its Boulevards--the _Champs Elysees_. As
+we gained the _Place Louis Quinze_, with the _Thuileries_ in front, with
+the _Hotel des Invalides_ (the gilded dome of which latter reflected the
+strong rays of a setting sun) to the right--we were much struck with
+this combination of architectural splendour: indisputably much superior
+to any similar display on the entrance into our own capital.[174]
+Turning to the left, the _Place Vendome_ and the _Rue de la Paix_, with
+the extreme height of the houses, and the stone materials of their
+construction, completed our admiration. But the _Boulevards
+Italiens_--after passing the pillars of the proposed church of _Ste.
+Madelaine_, and turning to the right--helped to prolong our extreme
+gratification, till we reached the spot whence I am addressing you.
+Doubtless, at first glance, this is a most splendid and enchanting city.
+A particular detail must be necessarily reserved, for the next despatch.
+I shall take all possible pains to make you acquainted with the
+treasures of PAST TIMES--in the shape of Manuscripts and printed Books.
+THE ROYAL LIBRARY has as much astonished me, as the CURATORS of it have
+charmed me by their extreme kindness and civility.[175]
+
+
+[174] [The above was written in 1818-19. Now, what would be said by a
+    foreigner, of his first drive from Westminster Bridge, through Regent
+    Street to the stupendous Pantheon facing the termination of Portland
+    Place?]
+
+[175] At this point, the labours of Mons. LICQUET, as my translator, cease;
+    and I will let him take leave of his task of translation in his own
+    words. "Ici se termine la tache qui m'a ete confiee. Apres avoir
+    refute franchement tout ce qui m'a semble digne de letre, je crois
+    devoir declarer, en finissant, que mes observations n'ont jamais eu
+    _la personne_ pour objet. Je reste persuade, d'ailleurs, que le coeur
+    de M.D. est tout-a-fait innocent des ecarts de son esprit. Si l'on
+    peut le condamner pour le fait, il faudra toujours l'absoudre pour
+    l'intention...." The _concluding_-sentence need not be copied: it is
+    bad taste to re-echo the notices of one's own good qualities.
+
+    My Norman translator at least takes leave of me with the grace of a
+    gentleman: although his thrusts have been occasionally direct and
+    severely intended. The foil which he has used has not always had the
+    button covered. The candid reader will, however, judge how these
+    thrusts have been parried; and if the "hits" on the part of my
+    adversary, have been sometimes "palpable," those of the original
+    author will not (it is presumed) be deemed feeble or unimpressive.
+    After all, the sum total of "Errata" scarcely includes THREE of
+    _substantial moment_: and wishing Mons Licquet "a very good day," I
+    desire nothing better than to renew our critical coqueting on the
+    floor of that Library of which he is the "Bibliothecaire en Chef."
+
+
+
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+London: Printed by W. Nicol,
+Cleveland-row, St. James's.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SUPPLEMENT TO VOL. I.
+
+OLD POEM ON THE SIEGE OF ROUEN.
+
+
+The city of Rouen makes too considerable a figure in the foregoing pages,
+and its history, as connected with our own country in the earlier part of
+the fifteenth century, is too interesting, to require any thing in the
+shape of apology for the matter which the Reader is about to peruse. This
+"matter" is necessarily incidental to the _present_ edition of the "Tour;"
+as it is only recently made public. An "_Old English Poem_" on our Henry
+the Fifth's "_Siege of Rouen_" is a theme likely to excite the attention of
+the literary Antiquary on _either_ side of the Channel.
+
+The late erudite, and ever to be lamented Rev. J.J. Conybeare, successively
+Professor of the Saxon language, and of English Poetry in the University of
+Oxford, discovered, in the exhaustless treasures of the Bodleian Library, a
+portion of the Old English Poem in question: but it was a portion only. In
+the 21st. vol. of the Archaeologia, Mr. Conybeare gave an account of this
+fortunate discovery, and subjoined the poetical fragment. Mr. Frederick
+Madden, one of the Librarians attached to the MS. department in the British
+Museum, was perhaps yet more fortunate in the discovery of the portion
+which was lost: and in the 22d. vol. of the _Archaeologia_, just published,
+(pp. 350-398), he has annexed an abstract of the remaining fragment, with
+copious and learned notes. This fragment had found its way, in a prose
+attire, into the well-known English MS. Chronicle, called the
+BRUTE:--usually (but most absurdly) attributed to Caxton. It is not however
+to be found in _all_ the copies of this Chronicle. On the contrary, Mr.
+Madden, after an examination of several copies of this MS. has found the
+poem only in four of them: namely, in two among the Harleian MSS. (Nos.
+753; 2256--from which _his_ transcript and collation have been made) in one
+belonging to Mr. Coke of Holkham, and in a fourth belonging to the _Cotton_
+Collection:--Galba E. viii. This latter MS. has a very close correspondence
+with the _second_ Harl. MS. but is often faulty from errors of the Scribe,
+See _Gentleman's Magazine, May_, 1829.
+
+So much for the history of the discovery of this precious old English
+Poem--which is allowed to be a contemporaneous production of the time of
+the Siege--namely, A.D. 1418. A word as to its intrinsic worth--from the
+testimony of the Critic most competent to appreciate it. "It will be
+admitted, I believe, (says Mr. Madden) by all who will take the trouble
+to compare the various contemporary narratives of the Siege of Rouen,
+that in point of simplicity, clearness, and minuteness of detail, there
+is NO existing document which can COMPARE with the Poem before us. Its
+authenticity is sufficiently established, from the fact of the Author's
+having been an EYEWITNESS of the whole. If we review the names of those
+Historians who lived at the same period, we shall have abundant reason
+to rejoice at so valuable an accession to our present stock of
+information on the subject." _Archaeologia_, vol. xxii. p. 353. The
+reader shall be no longer detained from a specimen or two of the poem
+itself, which should seem fully to justify the eulogy of the Critic.
+
+"On the day after the return of the twelve delegates sent by the City of
+Rouen to treat with Henry, the Poet proceeds to inform us, that the King
+caused two tents to be pitched, one for the English Commissioners, and the
+other for the French. On the English side were appointed the Earl of
+Warwick, the Earl of Salisbury, the Lord Fitzhugh, and Sir Walter
+Hungerford, and on the French side, twelve discreet persons were chosen to
+meet them. Then says the writer,
+
+  'It was a sight of solempnity,
+  For to behold both party;
+  To see the rich in their array,
+  And on the walls the people that lay,
+  And on our people that were without,
+  How thick that they walked about;
+  And the heraudis seemly to seene,
+  How that they went ay between;
+  The king's heraudis and pursuivants,
+  In coats of arms _amyantis_.
+  The English a beast, the French a flower,
+  Of Portyngale both castle and tower,
+  And other coats of diversity,
+  As lords bearen in their degree.'
+
+"As a striking contrast to this display of pomp and splendour is described
+the deplorable condition of those unfortunate inhabitants who lay starving
+in the ditches without the walls of the City, deprived both of food and
+clothing. The affecting and simple relation of our Poet, who was an
+eye-witness, is written with that display of feeling such a scene must
+naturally have excited, and affords perhaps one of the most favourable
+passages in the Poem to compare with the studied narratives of Elmham or
+Livius. In the first instance we behold misery literally in rags, and
+hiding herself in silence and obscurity, whilst in the other she is
+ostentatiously paraded before our eyes:
+
+  'There men might see a great pity,
+  A child of two year or three
+  Go about, and bid his bread,
+  For Father and mother both lay dead,
+  And under them the water stood,
+  And yet they lay crying after food.
+  Some _storven_ to the death,
+  And some stopped both eyen and breath,
+  And some crooked in the knees,
+  And as lean as any trees,
+  And women holding in their arm
+  A dead child, and nothing warm,
+  And children sucking on the pap
+  Within a dead woman's lap.'
+
+On Friday the 20th of January, King Henry V. made his public entry into
+Rouen. His personal appearance is thus described:
+
+  'He rode upon a brown steed,
+  Of black damask was his weed,
+  A _Peytrelle_ of gold full bright
+  About his neck hung down right,
+  And a pendant behind him did honge
+  Unto the earth, it was so long.
+  And they that never before him did see,
+  They knew by the cheer which was he.'
+
+"With the accustomed, but mistaken, piety for which Henry was ever
+distinguished, he first proceeded to the monastery, where he alighted from
+his charger, and was met by the chaplains of his household, who walked
+before him, chanting _Quis est magnus Dominus?_ After the celebration of
+mass, the king repaired to the Castle, where he took up his abode. By this
+termination of a siege, which, for its duration and the horrors it
+produced, is perhaps without a parallel in ancient or modern times, the
+city was again plentifully supplied with provisions, and recovered the
+shock so tedious and afflicting a contest had occasioned:
+
+  'And thus our gracious liege
+  Made an end of his siege;
+  And all that have heard this reading,
+  To his bliss Christ you bring,
+  That for us died upon a tree,
+  Amen say we all, _pur charite!_'
+
+The Duke of Exeter is appointed Governor of the City, and ordered by Henry
+to take possession of it the same night. The Duke mounts his horse, and
+rides strait to the Port de Bevesyne or Beauvais, attended by a retinue, to
+carry the commands of his sovereign into execution. His Entre, and the
+truly miserable condition of the besieged, together with the imposing
+appearance of Henry, shall now be described in the language of the poet.
+
+  Thanne the duke of Excestre withoute bode
+  Toke his hors and forth he rode,
+  To bevesyne[E] that porte so stronge,
+  That he hadde ley bifore so longe,
+  To that gate sone he kam,[F]
+  And with hym many a worthy[G] manne.
+  There was neying of many a stede,
+  And schynyng of many a gay wede,
+  There was many a getoun[H] gay,
+  With mychille[I] and grete aray.
+  And whanne the gate was openyd there,
+  And thay weren[J] redy into fare,
+  Trumpis[K] blewgh her bemys[L] of bras,
+  Pipis and clarionys forsothe ther was,
+  And as thay entrid thay gaf a schowte
+  With her[M] voyce that was fulle stowte,
+  'Seint George! seint George!' thay criden[N] on height,
+  And seide, 'welcome oure kynges righte.'
+  The Frensshe pepulle of that Cite
+  Were gederid by thousandes, hem to see.
+  Thay criden[N] alle welcome in fere,
+  'In siche tyme mote ye entre here,
+  Plesyng to God that it may be,
+  And to vs pees and vnyte.'
+  And of that pepulle, to telle the trewthe,
+  It was a sighte of fulle grete ruthe.
+  Mykelle of that folke therynne
+  Thay weren[O] but verrey bonys and skynne.
+  With eyen holowgh and[P] nose scharpe,
+  Vnnethe thay myght brethe or carpe,
+  For her colowris was[Q] wan as lede,
+  Not like to lyue but sone ben dede.
+  Disfigurid pateronys[R] and quaynte,
+  And as[S] a dede kyng thay weren paynte.
+  There men myght see an[T] exampleyre,
+  How fode makith the pepulle faire.[U]
+  In euery strete summe lay dede,
+  And hundriddis krying aftir brede.
+  And aftir long many a day,
+  Thay deyde as[V] faste as[W] they myght be lad away.
+  Into[X] that way God hem wisse,
+  That thay may come to his blisse! amen.
+  Now[Y] wille y more spelle,
+  And of the duke of exestre to[Z] telle.
+  To that Castelle firste he rode,
+  And sythen[AA] the Cite alle abrode;
+  Lengthe and brede he it mette,
+  And rich baneris he[AB] vp sette.
+  Vpon the porte seint Hillare
+  A Baner of the Trynyte.
+  And at[AC] the port Kaux he sette evene
+  A baner of the quene of heven.
+  And at[AD] port martvile he vppyght   Of seint George a baner bryght.
+  He sette vpon the Castelle to[AE] stonde
+  The armys of Fr[a]unce and Englond.
+  And on the Friday in the mornynge
+  Into that Cite come oure kynge.
+  And alle the Bisshoppis in her aray,
+  And vij. abbottis with Crucchis[AF] gay;
+  xlij.[AG] crossis ther were of Religioune[AH],
+  And seculere, and alle thay went a precessioun,
+  Agens that prince withoute the toune,
+  And euery Cros as thay stode
+  He blessid hem with milde mode,
+  And holy water with her hande
+  Thay gaf the prince of oure lande.
+  And at[AI] the porte Kaux so wide
+  He in passid withoute[AJ] pride;
+  Withoute pipe or bemys blaste,
+  Our kyng worthyly he in paste.
+  And as a conquerour in his righte
+  Thankyng[AK] euer god almyghte;
+  And alle the pepulle in that Citie
+  'Wilcome our[AL] lorde,' thay seide, 'so fre!
+  Wilcome into[AM] thyne owne righte,
+  As it is the[AN] wille of[AO] god almyght.'
+  With that thay kryde alle _'nowelle!_'
+  Os[AP] heighe as thay myght yelle.
+  He rode vpon a browne stede,
+  Of blak damaske was his wede.
+  A peytrelle[AQ] of golde fulle bryght
+  Aboute his necke hynge[AR] doun right,
+  And a pendaunte behynd him dide[AS] honge
+  Vnto the erthe, it was so longe,
+  And thay that neuer before hym dide[AT] see,
+  Thay knew by chere[u] wiche was he.
+  To the mynster dide he fare,
+  And of his horse he lighte there.
+  His chapelle[AU] mette hym at[AV] the dore there,
+  And wente bifore[AW] hym alle in fere,
+  And songe a response[AX] fulle glorivs,
+  _Quis est magnus dominus_.
+  Messe he hirde and offrid thoo,
+  And thanne to the Castelle dide he goo.
+  That is a place of rialte,
+  And a paleis of grete beaute.
+  There he hym[AY] loggid in the Toune,
+  With rialle and grete renoune.
+  And the[AZ] cite dide faste encrece
+  Of brede and wyne, fisshe, and fflesshe.[BA]
+  And thus oure gracious liege
+  Made an ende of his seege.
+  And alle that[BB] haue hirde this redynge[BC]
+  To his[BD] blisse criste you brynge,
+  That for vs deide vpon[BE] a tre,
+  Amen sey[BF] we alle, pur cherite!
+
+_There was many a getoun gay_.] The following particulars relative to the
+_getoun_ appear in MS. Harl. 838. "Euery baronet euery estat aboue hym shal
+have hys baner displeyd in y'e field yf he be chyef capteyn, euery knyght
+his penoun, euery squier or gentleman hys _getoun_ or standard." "Item, y'e
+meyst lawfully fle fro y'e standard and _getoun_, but not fro y'e baner ne
+penon.". "Nota, a stremer shal stand in a top of a schyp or in y'e
+fore-castel: a stremer shal be slyt and so shal a standard as welle as a
+_getoun_: a _getoun_ shal berr y'e length of ij yardes, a standard of iii
+or 4 yardes, and a stremer of xii. xx. xl. or lx. yardes longe."
+
+This account is confirmed by MS. Harl. 2258, and Lansd. 225. f. 431. as
+quoted by Mr. Nicholas, in the Retrosp. Rev. vol. i. N.S. The former of
+these MSS. states: Euery standard and _Guydhome_ [whence the etymology of
+the word is obvious] to have in the chief the crosse of St. George, to be
+slitte at the ende, and to conteyne the creste or supporter, with the
+posey, worde, and devise of the owner." It adds, that "a guydhome must be
+two yardes and a halfe, or three yardes longe." This rule may sometimes
+have been neglected, at least by artists, for in a bill of expences for the
+Earl of Warwick, dated July 1437, and printed by Dugdale, (Warw. p. 327.)
+we find the following entry; "Item, a _gyton_ for the shippe of viij.
+yerdis long, poudrid full of raggid staves, for the lymnyng and
+workmanship, ijs." The Grant of a _guydon_ made in 1491 to Hugh Vaughan, is
+preserved in the College of Arms. It contains his crest placed
+longitudinally. _Retrospective Review, New Series_, vol. i. p. 511.
+
+
+[E] _bewesyns_.
+
+[F] _came_.
+
+[G] _worthy_ deest.
+
+[H] A species of banner or streamer. See Note.
+
+[I] _noble_.
+
+[J] _were_.
+
+[K] Trumpeters.
+
+[L] Trumpets.
+
+[M] _that_.
+
+[N] cryed.
+
+[O] _were_.
+
+[P] _with nose_.
+
+[Q] _were_.
+
+[R] _patrons_.--Workmens' models or figures. _Patrone_, forme to
+    werke by. _Prompt. Parvul_. MS. Harl. 221. There is probably here
+    an allusion to the waxen or wooden effigies placed on the hearse of
+    distinguished personages.
+
+[S] _as dede thyng they were peynte_.
+
+[T] _in_.
+
+[U] _to fare_.
+
+[V] as _deest_.
+
+[W] _as cartes led awey_.
+
+[X] _Vnto_.
+
+[Y] In MS. Harl. 753, a break is here made, and a large capital letter
+    introduced.
+
+[Z] _to_ deest.
+
+[AA] _sithe_.
+
+[AB] _vp he_.
+
+[AC] _atte porte kauxoz_.
+
+[AD] _atte_ porte.
+
+[AE] _that stounde_.
+
+[AF] Crosses.
+
+[AG] xliiij.
+
+[AH] _religiouns_.
+
+[AI] _atte porte hauxoz_.
+
+[AJ] The remainder, of this, and the two following lines are omitted.
+
+[AK] _Thanked_.
+
+[AL] _they seyde our lord so free_.
+
+[AM] _vnto_.
+
+[AN] _the_ deest.
+
+[AO] _to_.
+
+[AP] _As_.
+
+[AQ] Poitrell, breast plate.
+
+[AR] _hangyng_.
+
+[AS] _dide_ deest.
+
+[AT] _the_ chere.
+
+[AU] The chaplains of his household. Lat. _capella_.
+
+[AV] _atte_ dore, _there_ deest.
+
+[AW] _afore_.
+
+[AX] _respon._
+
+[AY] _logged hym._
+
+[AZ] _his cite fast encrest_.
+
+[BA] _beste_.
+
+[BB] _that_ deest.
+
+[BC] _tydyng_.
+
+[BD] _his_ deest.
+
+[BE] on.
+
+[BF] _seyde all for charitee_.
+
+
+
+
+BRONZE GILT ANTIQUE STATUE AT LILLEBONNE, p. 127-8.
+
+
+This Statue, as the above reference will testify, is now in the possession
+of Mr. Samuel Woodburn, of St. Martin's Lane. When the note relating to it
+was written, I could, not place my hand upon a Brochure (in my possession)
+published at Rouen in 1823,[176] containing an archaeological description
+of this Statue by M. Revet, and a scientific account of its component
+parts, by M. Houton La Billardiere, Professor of Chemistry at Rouen. The
+former embodied his remarks in two letters addressed to the Prefect of the
+Lower Seine. A print of the figure in its then extremely mutilated state,
+is prefixed; but its omission would have been no great drawback to the
+publication--which, in its details, appears to be ingenious, learned, and
+satisfactory. The highest praise is given to the Statue, as a work of art
+of the second century.[177] Its _identity_ seems to be yet a subject of
+disputation:--but M. Revet considers it as "the representation of some
+idolatrous divinity." The opinion of its being a representation of Bacchus,
+or of Apollo, or of a Constellation, he thinks might be regulated by a
+discovery of some emblem, or attribute, found in the vicinity of the
+Statue. Two other plates--lithographised--relating to explanations of the
+pieces of the Statue, close this interesting performance.
+
+
+[176] "_Description de la, Statue Fruste, en Bronze Dore, trouvee a
+    Lillebonne &c. Suivie de l'Analyse du Metal, avec le dessein de la
+    Statue, et les Traces de quelques particularites relatives a la
+    Confection de cette Antique." Rouen,_ 1823. pp. 56.
+
+[177] Other details induce me to fix the period of its completion towards
+    the end of the second century: and after the unheard of difficulties
+    which the artist had to overcome, one would scarcely be believed if
+    one said that every thing is executed in a high state of perfection."
+    p. 34.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INDEX.
+
+INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, AND OF PRINTED BOOKS,
+DESCRIBED, QUOTED, OR REFERRED TO.
+
+                                                                  Vol Page
+_AEneas Sylvius de Duobus Amantibus_, no date, 4to.--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  315
+
+_AEsopus, Gr_. 4to. Edit. prin.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  308
+
+---- _Lat_. 1481, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  141
+
+---- _Ital_. 1485, _Tuppi_, in the same library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  142
+
+---- _Ital_. 1491 and 1492, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  308
+
+---- _Hispan_. 1496, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  142
+
+---- _Germ. Without Date, &c_., in the same library                ii  142
+
+---- ---- in the same library,                                     ii  142
+
+_Alain Chartier, paraboles de, Verard_, 1492,
+folio--UPON VELLUM--in the Royal Library at Paris,                 ii  134
+
+_Albert Durer_; original drawings of, in a Book of
+Prayers, in the Public Library at Munich,                         iii  132
+
+_Alcuinus de Trinitate, Monast. Utimpurrha_, 1500,
+folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg,                        iii  101
+
+_Aldine Classics_, in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  145
+
+---- ----, in the Library of St. Genevieve,                        ii  177
+
+---- ----, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,            iii   41
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich,                       iii  146
+
+_Alexandrus Gallus_, vulgo _de Villa Dei Doctrinale V
+de Spira_, folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,              iii  315
+
+_Almanac historique--le Messager Boiteux_--a chap book,
+extracts from,                                                    iii   73
+
+_Anti-Christ--block book_--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,                                                         iii  181
+
+_Ambrosii Hexameron_, 1472, folio--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   99
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  430
+
+_Amours, chasse et depart, Verard_, 1509, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  132
+
+_Anthologia Graeca_, 1498, 4to.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  176
+
+---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  145
+
+_Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica_, 1477, _Koberger_,
+folio--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                        ii  407
+
+_Apocalypse, block book_, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Apostles Creed_, in German, _block book_, with
+fac simile--in the Public Library at Munich,                      iii  137
+
+_Appianus, Lat. Ratdolt_, 1478, folio--in the library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian,                                  iii  236
+
+_Apuleius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  128
+
+---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of Closterneuburg,     iii  397
+
+---- ----, imperfect, in the Public Library at Munich,            iii  142
+
+---- ----, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,        iii  308
+
+---- ----, 1472, _Jenson_, folio--in the last mentioned
+library,                                                          iii  308
+
+_Aquinas, T., Sec. Secundae, Schoeffher_, 1467,
+folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,            iii  316
+
+----, _Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher_. 1469, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the same Library,                                      iii  316
+
+----, _In Evang. Matt, et Marc_. 1470, _S. and
+Pannartz_, folio--in the same library,                            iii  316
+
+---- _de virtut. et vitiis. Mentelin_--in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  141
+
+_Arbre des Batailles, Verard_, 1493, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  132
+
+_Aretinus de Bella Gothico_, 1470, folio--in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  208
+
+_Aristotelis Opera, Gr. Aldus_, 1495, 6 vols. Two copies
+UPON VELLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  136
+
+---- _Ethica Nichomachea. Gr. (Aldus)--_ remarkably
+splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii  138
+
+_Ars Memorandi_, &c.--_block book_: five copies of,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  135
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+---- -----in the Library of Goettwic Monastery,                    iii  428
+
+_Ars Moriendi, Germanice--4to_.-- in the Royal Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   26
+
+---- _Lat. block book_--two editions, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  136
+
+_Art de bien Mourir, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  133
+
+_Art and Crafte to know well to dye, Caxton_, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  124
+
+ARTUS LE ROY; MS. xiith century,--in the Royal Library at Paris,   ii   94
+
+Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same Library,              ii   94
+
+_Artaxani Summa_, (1469) folio--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  232
+
+_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  113
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris,               ii  173
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  301
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,             iii  397
+
+---- ---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, 1470, folio, in the
+Public Library at Vire,                                             i  297
+
+_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio,
+UPON VELLUM, late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery,      iii  221
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  181
+
+---- ---- _Schoeffher_, 1473; folio--in the Library of the
+Monastery of Chremsminster,                                       iii  221
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1475, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  301
+
+---- _Confessionum Libri XIII_. 1475. 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  301
+
+---- ---- _de singularitate Clericorum_, 1467, 4to. in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   40
+
+AUGUSTINI STI. IN PSALMOS, MS. xvth century--formerly in the
+library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in the
+Royal Library at Stuttgart,                                       iii   36
+
+---- ---- _Yppon. de Cons. Evang_. 1473, folio--in the
+Public Library at Augsbourg,                                      iii  101
+
+_Aulus Gellius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  127
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  308
+
+Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ, 1468,
+Printed by Gunther Zeiner. _Pub. Lib. Augsbourg_,                 iii  100
+
+_Ausonius_, 1472, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  128
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  309
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1517, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+_Aymon, les quatre filz_, 1583, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal, at Paris,                                          ii  163
+
+
+B.
+
+BALLADS;
+  _Bon Jour, Bon Soir_:                                             i  132
+  --_Toujours_,                                                        389
+  various, from the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_,                  292
+                                                                      -293
+                                                                      -294
+  _Vive Le Roi, Vive L'Amour_,                                      i  310
+  _en arborant le drapeau blanc, at Falaise_,                       i  324
+  _le Baiser d'Adieu_,                                              i  343
+  _L'Image de la Vie_,                                              i  344
+
+_Bartholi Lectura de Spira_, 1471. Folio.
+In the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  316
+
+_Bartsch, I. Adam de--Catalogue des Estampes, par, &c_.
+1818. 8vo.                                                        iii  393
+
+_Bella (La) Mano_, 1474, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  321
+
+_Bellovacensis Vinc. Spec. Hist_. 1473, folio--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  317
+
+_Berlinghieri, Geografia_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                         iii  321
+
+_Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons_, no date,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  165
+
+_Bessarionis Epistolae_, (1469) folio--in the
+Royal Library at Stuttgart,                                       iii   24
+
+BIBLIA LATINA, MS. ixth century, of Charles the Bald--in
+the Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plate
+engraving of that Monarch's portrait,                              ii   65
+
+------ ------ XIIth century, in the same library,                  ii   67
+
+------ ------ XVth century, of the _Emperor Wenceslaus_--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  290
+
+BIBLIA HIST. PARAPHRASTICA, MS. XVth century,                      ii   69
+
+_Biblia Polyglotta Complut_. 1516, &c. in the
+Public Library at Coutances,                                        i  270
+
+------ ------ copy belonging to Diane de Poictiers,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  149
+
+------ ------ 1521, in the Public Library at Landshut,            iii  181
+
+------ ------ copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas, afterwards
+that of Eckius, in the Public Library at Landshut,                iii  181
+
+------ ------ _Walton_; royal copy, in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  211
+
+------ ------ with the original
+dedication, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                   iii   22
+
+------ ------ in the Library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria,                      iii  237
+
+_Biblia Polyglotta, Le Jay_: in the Library of the Lycee
+at Bayeux                                                           i  245
+
+------ _Hebraica, edit. Soncini_, 1488, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  303
+
+_Biblia Hebraica edit. Houbigant_, 1753, in a
+Private Collection near Bayeux,                                     i  235
+
+---- ---- _Hahn_, 1806, in the Library of the
+Monastery of Closterneuburg,                                      iii  396
+
+---- _Graeca, Aldus_, 1518, folio--Francis Ist's copy,
+upon thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii  148
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, upon thick paper, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  157
+
+---- ---- the usual copy, in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   39
+
+_Biblia Latina_, (_edit. Maz. 1455_) folio, 2 vols.,
+two copies of, in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  106
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                 ii  190
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Public Library at Munich,                 iii  139
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,               iii  302
+
+---- ---- _Pfister_, (1461) folio, 3 vols. in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  108
+
+---- two copies, 1592, 1603, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,   iii   39
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  302
+
+---- _Fust und Schoeffher_, 1462: folio--three copies,
+(two UPON VELLUM, and a third on paper) in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  154
+
+---- ---- VELLUM COPY, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,           ii  173
+
+---- VELLUM COPY, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                ii  190
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- (imperfect) in the Public Library at Landshut,          iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  302
+
+_Biblia Latina Mentelin_--in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  404
+
+_Biblia Latino Mentelin_, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  302
+
+---- _Eggesteyn_, (ms. date, 1468) in the Public
+Library at Strasbourg,                                             ii  404
+
+---- ---- (ms. date, 1466) in the Public Library at Munich,       iii  141
+
+---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  302
+
+---- supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                    iii   55
+
+---- 1475, folio, _Frisner_, &c.--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   96
+
+---- (1475 _edit. Gering_) imperfect copy in the
+Chapter Library at Bayeux,                                          i  244
+
+---- _Hailbrun_, 1476, folio: two copies, of which
+one is UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,            iii  303
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1479, folio, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,                                                        ii  405
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna--and a
+second copy upon paper,                                           iii  303
+
+---- ---- 1485, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,               i  208
+
+---- ---- _Froben_, 1495, 8vo. in the Public Library
+at Vire,                                                            i  298
+
+BIBLIA GERMANICA, MS. of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  290
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  108
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  403
+
+---- ---- two copies, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,         iii   21
+
+---- ---- two copies in the Public Library at Munich,             iii  140
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  180
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio, in the Library at
+Closterneuburg Monastery,                                         iii  397
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Ratisbon, _Supplement_,        iii  418
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+---- ---- _supposed first edition_, in the Public Library
+at Landshut,                                                      iii  180
+
+---- ---- _supposed first edition_, folio, in the Library
+of Closterneuburg Monastery,                                      iii  397
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Sorg. Augsbourg_, 1477, folio, in
+the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,                      iii  236
+
+---- ---- _Peypus_, 1524, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   22
+
+_Biblia Italica; Kalend. Augusti_, 1471--folio--in
+the Mazarine Library, at Paris,                                    ii  191
+
+---- ---- imperfect copy, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,     iii   22
+
+---- ---- _Kalend. Octobris_, 1471, folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                       ii  173
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  303
+
+_Bibl. Hist, Venet_. 1492, folio--copy purchased of
+M. Fischeim at Munich,                                            iii  154
+
+_Biblia Bohemica_, 1488, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  109
+
+---- _Polonica_, 1563, folio--in the same Library,                 ii  109
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- copy purchased by the Author at Augsbourg,              iii   96
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  304
+
+---- ---- 1599; folio--in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,           ii  174
+
+_Biblia Hungarica_, 1565, folio--incomplete, in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   39
+
+---- _Sclavonica_, 1581, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- 1587, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,              ii  109
+
+_Bible, La Sainte_, 1669, folio; large paper copy in
+the Public Library of Caen,                                         i  211
+
+BIBLIA-HISTORICA, _MS. versibus germanicis_, Sec.
+XIV.--in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                          iii   29
+
+---- _Aurea. Lat. I. Zeiner_, 1474, folio--in the
+Library of Chremsminster Monastery,                               iii  222
+
+---- _Pauperum, block book_: in the Royal Library at Paris,        ii  108
+
+---- ---- _block book_, German,--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart                                                         iii   26
+
+---- ---- _Latine_, first edition, in the same Library,           iii   27
+
+---- ---- _block book_--one German, and two Latin
+editions, in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  136
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+BIOGRAPHY, ROYAL, OF FRANCE;--XVIth century--magnificent
+MS. in the Royal Library at Paris.                                 ii   87
+
+BLAZONRY OF ARMS, BOOK OF--XIVth century, with fac-simile
+portrait of _Leopold de Sempach_ in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  299
+
+_Block books_; at Paris, ii 208, at Stuttgart, iii 26,
+at Munich, iii 134; at Landshut, iii 181; at Vienna, iii 331.
+
+BOCACE, DES CAS DES NOBLES HOMMES ET FEMMES,
+MS. XVth century, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii   84
+
+---- ---- two more MSS. of the same work, in the same Library,     ii   85
+
+_Boccace Ruines des-Nobles Hommes_, &c. 1476,
+_Colard Mansion_, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  126
+
+_Boccaccio Il Decamerone_, 1471, _Valdarfer_,
+folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  125
+
+---- ---- 1472, _A. de Michaelibus_, folio, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  126
+
+_Boccaccio II Decamerone_, in the Public Library at
+Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                                          iii  431
+
+---- ---- 1476, _Zarotus_, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  321
+
+---- ---- _Deo Gracias, Sine Anno: forsan edit. prin_. in
+the Public Library at Munich,                                     iii  143
+
+---- _Nimphale_, 1477, 4to., in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   26
+
+_Boetius, F. Johannes_, 1474, 4to. in the Library of
+Ste. Genevieve. at Paris,                                          ii  176
+
+_Bonifacii Papae Libr. Decret_, 1465, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of Moelk Monastery,                                 iii  252
+
+---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  430
+
+_Bonnie vie, ou Madenie, Chambery_, 1485, folio,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  326
+
+Book of the Gospels of the Emperor Lotharius, Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   67
+
+BREVIAIRE DE BELLEVILLE, MS. xivth century, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   72
+
+BREVIARY OF JOHN DUKE OF BEDFORD, MS. xvth century--in
+the Royal Library at Paris--with copper plate fac-simile
+of a portion of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same,          ii   73
+
+BREVIARE DE M. DE MONMORENCY, MS. xvith century--in the
+Emperor of Austria's private collection at Vienna,                iii  386
+
+BREVIARIUM ECCL. Liss. MS.; in the Public Library at
+Caen                                                                i  209
+
+BRUT D'ANGLETERE, MS. xivth century--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  300
+
+_Budaei Comment, in Ling. Gr_. 1529, folio--Francis 1st.
+copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  140
+
+_Burtrio, Anthon. de, Adam Rot_, 1472, folio, in
+the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+
+C.
+
+_Caesar_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii  128
+
+_Caesar_, 1460, folio, in the Mazarine Library,                     ii  192
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  142
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library,                   iii  309
+
+---- 1471. _Jenson_, in the library of Goettwic Monastery,         iii  430
+
+---- 1472. _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  309
+
+_Calderi Opus Concilior. Adam Rot_.--1472. Folio, in
+the library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+CALENDARIUM, MS., xvith century in the Public Library
+at Munich                                                         iii  128
+
+---- ---- _Regiomontani, block book_ in the Public
+Library at Munich                                                 iii  138
+
+_Cantica Canticorum, Edit. Prin_. three copies in the
+Public Library at Augsbourg,                                      iii  138
+
+_Castille et Artus d'Algarbe_, 1587. 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris                                    ii  160
+
+_Catechisme a l'usage des grandes filles pour etres maries_         i   89
+
+_Caterina da Bologna_, no Date. 4to. in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+---- _da Sienna_, 1477, 4to., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  322
+
+---- _de Senis_, 1500, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  149
+
+_Catholicon_, 1460, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library Paris,                                               ii  114
+
+---- ---- 1460, folio, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,                iii  317
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,           iii  143
+
+---- _G, Zeiner_, 1469, UPON VELLUM, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  143
+
+---- ---- in the Monastic Library of Chremsminster,               iii  221
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  317
+
+_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, 1472, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  128
+
+_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, in the
+Mazarine Library,                                                  ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  409
+
+_Caxton, books printed by_, in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii  102
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Celestina Commedia de, Anvers_, 18mo., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  162
+
+_Chaucer's Book of Fame, Caxton_, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+CHESS, GAME OF, _metrical German version of_,
+MS., sec. xv., in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                 iii  154
+
+_Chevalier Delibre_, 1488, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  326
+
+CHEVALIER AU LION, MS., 1470, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii  33
+
+_Chivalry_; see _Tournaments_.
+
+_Chretien de Mechel_, Cat. des Tableaux de la Galerie
+imp. et roy. de Vienne, 1781, 8vo.,                               iii  371
+
+---- _Foresii, Lat_. 1474, folio, _printed by Gotz_,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  405
+
+---- _Hungariae_, 1485, 4to., in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii   99
+
+_Chronicon Gottwicense_, 1732, folio, 2 vols., some
+account of this rare and valuable work,                           iii  436
+
+---- ---- referred to,                                            iii  271
+
+_Chrysostomi Comment., Gr_. 1529, folio, copy of
+Diane de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,                  i  213
+
+_Cicero, de Officiis_ 1465, 4to., two copies
+UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                   iii  309
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., upon paper, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                 iii  192
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Imp.
+Lib. at Vienna,                                                   iii  309
+
+---- ---- (_Aldus_), 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  146
+
+_Cicero, Epistolae ad Familiares_, 1467, Cardinal
+Bessarion's copy in the Imperial Library, at Vienna,              iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1469, _S. and Pannartz_, folio,
+in the same Library,                                              iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1469, _S: and Pannartz_, folio, in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   98
+
+---- ---- 1469, _I. de Spira_, in the Royal
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1502, Aldus, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession
+of M. Renouard, bookseller,                                        ii  222
+
+_Cicero, de Oratore, Monast. Soubiac_., folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  173
+
+---- ---- _V. de Spira_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  408
+
+---- _Opera Philosophica, Ulric Han_, folio, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  142
+
+---- _De Natura Deorum, V. de Spira_. 1471, folio, in
+the Mazarine Library, at Paris,                                    ii  192
+
+---- _Rhetorica Vetus, Jenson_, 1470, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                        ii  175
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  310
+
+---- _Orationes, S. and Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  310
+
+---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+(wanting one leaf) in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  141
+
+---- ---- 1519, _Aldus_, 8vo, UPON VELLUM, first volume
+only, in the Royal Library at Paris,                               ii  146
+
+----  ---- perfect copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of St.
+Genevieve,                                                         ii  177
+
+---- _Opera Omnia_, 1498, folio, 4 vols., in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  176
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1534, _Giunta_, folio, singular copy in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  152
+
+_Cid el Cavalero_, 1627, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal, at Paris: bound with _Seys Romances del Cid Ruy
+Diaz de Bevar_, 1627, 4to.                                         ii  161
+
+CITE DE DIEU, MS., in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii   82
+
+_Cite des Dames, (Verard)_ folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  327
+
+_Codex Ebnerianus_, referred to                                   iii  447
+
+_Compendium Morale_, folio, UPON VELLUM, unique copy,
+late in the possession of the Baron Derschau, at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  443
+
+COSTENTIN DU, MS., in the Public Library at Caen,                   i  209
+
+COUTANCES, MS., biographical details connected with, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  210
+
+_Coutumes Anciennes_, 1672, 12mo. at Caen,                          i  211
+
+_Cronica del Cid. Seville_. 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  327
+
+Cronique de France, 1493, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  130
+
+---- _de Florimont_, 1529, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  164
+
+---- _de Cleriadus_, 1529, 4to.,--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  166
+
+
+D.
+
+_Daigremont et Vivian_, 1538, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,                                             ii  166
+
+_Dante Numeister_, 1472, folio, in the Mazarine Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  322
+
+---- _Petrus Adam_, 1472, folio, in the Library of
+Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                          ii  176
+
+---- ---- _Neapoli, Tuppi,_ folio, in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   25
+
+---- ---- _Milan_, 1478, with, the comments of G. Tuzago,
+folio, in the same collection,                                    iii   25
+
+---- 1481, folio, perfect copy, with twenty copper plates,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  144
+
+---- 1481, folio, with xx copper-plates, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Decor Puellarum, Jenson_, 1461, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Defensio Immac. Concept. B.V.M_. 1470, _block book_,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  139
+
+_Delphin Classics_, fine set of, in the library of
+Chremsminster Monastery,                                          iii  222
+
+_Der Veis Ritter_, 1514, folio, unique copy, in the
+Public Library at Landshut,                                       iii  183
+
+_Dion Cassius_, 1548, Gr. folio, edit. prin., Diane
+de Poictiers' copy, in the Royal Library at Paris,                 ii  152
+
+_Dio Chrysostom. de Regno, Valdarfer_, 4to. UPON
+VELLUM, in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna,            iii  388
+
+DIOSCORIDES, GRAECE, MS., VIth century, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  296
+
+DIVERTISSMENTS TOUCHANT LA GUERRE, MS., in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  209
+
+_Doolin de Mayence, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to. in the Library
+of the Arsenal,                                                    ii  167
+
+_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  108
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library, Vienna,                        iii  317
+
+_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the Public
+Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                               iii  430
+
+---- ---- 1474, _I. Zeiner_, folio, in the Library
+of Chremsminster Monastery,                                       iii  222
+
+
+E.
+
+ECHECS AMOREUX. MS. folio--with copper-plate fac-simile
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   83
+
+_Echec Jeu de, (Verard)_ no date--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  132
+
+_Ein nuizlich buechlin, Augs_., 1498, 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  327
+
+_Erasmus expurgatus iuxta cens. Acad. Lovan_. 1579,
+folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg. See _Testament.
+Novum,_ 1516.                                                     iii  102
+
+EVANGELIA QUATUOR, Lat. MS. VIth century, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   64
+
+---- ---- VIIIth century, in the Library at
+Chremsminster Monastery,                                          iii  224
+
+---- ---- IXth century--in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  123
+
+---- ---- XIth century, in the same Library,                      iii  124
+
+---- ---- Xth century, in the Public Library at Landshut,         iii  179
+
+---- ---- XIth century--in the Public Library at Stuttgart,       iii   27
+
+---- ---- XIVth century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna        iii  291
+
+EVANGELIUM STI. IOHANNIS, MS. Lat. XIth century, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii   71
+
+_Evangelia cum Epistolis: Ital_. folio--in the
+Library of Goettwic Monastery,                                     iii  428
+
+Evangelistarium, of Charlemagne, MS. folio, in the Private
+Library of the King, at Paris,                                     ii  199
+
+_Euclides_, 1482, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  139
+
+---- ---- four varying copies of, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  143
+
+---- Ratdolt. 1485, in the Library of the Monastery
+of St. Florian,                                                   iii  236
+
+_Euripides, Gr_., 1503, _Aldus_--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  145
+
+_Eustathius in Homerum_, 1542--folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  138
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection,                      ii  151
+
+---- ---- 1559, folio, fine copy, upon paper, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  211
+
+_Eutropius_, 1471, _Laver_, folio--in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   39
+
+_Exhortation against the Turks_ (1472) in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  135
+
+
+F.
+
+_Fait de la Guerre C. Mansion_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  127
+
+_Fazio Dita Mundi_, 1474, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Ficheti Rhetorica--Gering_--4to.--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  317
+
+_Fiorio e Biancifiore, Bologna_, 1480, folio--in the
+Library of the Arsenal, at Paris,                                  ii  161
+
+_Fierbras_, 1486, folio--Prince Eugene's copy, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  327
+
+_Fortalitium Fidei_--folio--no date--in the Public
+Library, at Munich: curious printed advertisement in this copy,   iii  145
+
+_Frezzi Il Quadriregio_, 1481, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Fulgosii Anteros_--1496--folio--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  323
+
+FUNERAILES DES REINES DE FRANCE, MS. folio--in the
+Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna,                           iii  387
+
+
+G.
+
+_Galenus, Gr_. 1525, folio. _Aldus_--large paper,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  148
+
+_Galien et Jaqueline_, 1525, folio--in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,                                             ii  163
+
+_Gallia Christiana_, 1732, folio, in the Chapter Library
+at Bayeux,                                                         ii  244
+
+_Games of Chess, Caxton_, folio, 2d. edit.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+GENESIS--MS. of the _ivth century--fragments of Chapters
+of_, account of--with fac-simile Illuminations, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  289
+
+_Gerard Comte de Nevers_, 1526, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  164
+
+_Geyler, Navic. Fat_. 1511, 4to.--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  102
+
+_Gloria Mulierum Jenson_, 4to.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  324
+
+_Godfrey of Boulogne, Caxton_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  333
+
+_Gospels_, folio--MS. xiiith century--in the Emperor's
+Private Library at Vienna,                                        iii  386
+
+_Grammatica Rythmica_, 1466, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  114
+
+_Gratian Opus. Decret. Schoeffher_, 1472, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,               iii  398
+
+_Guillaume de Palerne_, 1552, 4to, in the Library of the
+Arsenal: another edition, 1634, 4to.,                              ii  166
+
+_Guy de Warwick_, no date, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  159
+
+_Gyron Le Courtoys_, no date, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  130
+
+
+H.
+
+_Hartlieb's Chiromancy, block book_, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  115
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+_Helayne La Belle_, 1528, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  166
+
+_Hecuba et Iphigenia in Aulide_, Gr. et Lat. 1507,
+UPON VELLUM, 8vo.                                                  ii  145
+
+_Hector de Troye, Arnoullet_, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  167
+
+_Heures, printed by Vostre_, fine copy of, in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  210
+
+_Herodotus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldus_, folio, large paper
+copy in the Royal Library at Paris,                                ii  150
+
+HISTORIA B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., folio, xvth century,
+in the Public Library at Paris,                                    ii   76
+
+---- ---- _block book_, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  116
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Historiae Augusta Scriptores_, 1475, folio, _P. de
+Lavagna_, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  408
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1521, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  147
+
+_History of Bohemia_, _by Pope Pius II_, 1475,
+in the Public Library at Augsbourg,                               iii   99
+
+HISTOIRE ROMAINE, MS, xvth century; folio, 3 vols.
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   87
+
+_Homeri Opera, Gr_., 1488, folio, UNCUT, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  129
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  311
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  432
+
+---- ---- _No date_, _Aldus_, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  145
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  177
+
+---- ---- 1808, _Bodoni_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  129
+
+---- ---- _Batrachomyomachia_, _Gr._ 4to., edit.
+prin. in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                          iii  311
+
+HORAE B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., 8vo., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii   74
+
+---- ---- folio, belonging to ANN OF BRITANNY, with copper
+plate  engraving of her portrait therefrom, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   78
+
+---- ---- belonging to Pope Paul III. in the same Library,         ii   80
+
+---- ---- MS., XVth century, in the Royal Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   37
+
+---- ---- 8vo., in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna,    iii  386
+
+---- STI. LUDOVICI, MS., XIIIth century, in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  157
+
+---- ---- _Gr._ 1497, 12mo. _printed by Aldus_,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  103
+                                                                      -147
+
+---- ---- purchase of a copy from Mr. Stoeger, at Munich,          iii  151
+
+HORATIUS, M. S., XIIth century in the Moelk Monastery,             iii  258
+
+---- Edit. Prin. 4to., in the Public Library at Augsbourg,        iii   96
+
+---- _Venet_. 1494, 4to., purchased of Mr. Fischeim,
+at Munich,                                                        iii  154
+
+---- 1501, _Aldus_, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  146
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,           iii  143
+
+_Horloge de Sapience, Verard_, 1493, folio,
+UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                        ii  131
+
+HORTUS DELICIARUM, MS., XIIth century, in the Public
+Library at Strasbourg,                                             ii  401
+
+HORTULUS ANIMAE, MS., XVth century, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  294
+
+---- ---- 1498, 12mo., in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   38
+
+---- _Rosarum, &c_., 1499, 8vo., in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  101
+
+_Huet, Demonstrat. Evang_. 1690, (1679?) folio, unique
+copy in the Public Library at Caen,                                 i  211
+
+_Huon de Bourdeaux_, four editions of, in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  163
+
+
+I.
+
+_Isocrates, Gr., Aldus_, 1534, folio, large paper copy
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  148
+
+---- ---- Printed at Milan, 1493, folio,                           ii  149
+
+_Jason, Roman de, printed by Caxton_, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  103
+
+---- ---- _same edition_, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  155
+
+_Jason, printed by Caxton_, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,           iii  332
+
+_Iehan de Saintre, Bonfons_, no date, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  165
+
+---- _Paris, Bonfons_, no date, 4to., in the same collection,      ii  165
+
+JEROME, ST., VIE, MORT, ET MIRACLES DE, MS., XVth
+century, in the Public Library of Stuttgart,                      iii   31
+
+_Ieronimi Epistolae_, 1468, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  304
+
+---- ---- 1470, _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the Library
+of Closterneuburg Monastery,                                      iii  398
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+----  ---- 1470, _Schoeffher_, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  406
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+---- ---- _Parmae_, 1480, folio, in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   98
+
+_Josephus, Lat_. 1480, folio, in the Library of the
+Monastery of St. Florian,                                         iii  236
+
+---- _Gallice_, 1492, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  328
+
+_Jourdain de Blave, Paris, Chretien, no date_, 4to.,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  166
+
+_Jouvencel le_, 1497, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  328
+
+_Juvenalis_, folio, _V. de Spira_, edit. prin. in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,                                  ii  409
+
+---- _Ulric. Han. typ. grand_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  311
+
+---- 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,                    i  208
+
+--- _I. de Fivizano_, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  311
+
+
+L.
+
+_Lactantii Institutiones_, 1465, folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  112
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  172
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  305
+
+---- ---- 1470, _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the
+Mazarine Library at Paris,                                         ii  192
+
+---- ---- _Rostoch_, 1476, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  305
+
+LANCELOT DU LAC, MS., XIVth century, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii   88
+
+---- ---- another MS. of about the same period, in the same
+Library,                                                           ii   89
+
+---- ---- another manuscript in the same library,                  ii  89
+
+
+---- ---- 1488, _Verard_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                        iii   328
+
+---- ---- 1494, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                    iii  130
+
+---- ---- 1496, _Verard,_ folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  328
+
+_Lascaris Gram. Graec_. 1476, 4to., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  127
+
+LEGES BAVARICAE, MS., XIIIth century, in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  179
+
+_Legenda Aurea, (seu Sanctorum) Ital. Jenson_, 1476,
+folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                           ii  191
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  324
+
+---- ---- 1475, _Gering_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Caen,                                                            i  208
+
+_Les Deux Amans, Verard_, 1493, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  328
+
+LIBER GENERATIONIS IES. XTI. MS. VIIth century:
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   70
+
+_Liber Modorum significandi_, 1480, _St.
+Albans_,--in the Royal Library at Paris,                           ii  125
+
+_Liber Moralisat. Bibl_. 1474, Ulm, folio--copy purchased
+of M. Fischeim, at Munich,                                        iii  154
+
+LIBER PRECUM, _cum not. et cant_. MS. _pervet_. in the
+  Royal Library at Paris,                                          ii   71
+
+---- ---- MS. xvth century, in the Public Library at Munich,      iii  131
+
+_Liber Regum, seu Vita Davidis--block books_--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  331
+
+_Life of Christ, block book_--in the Public Library at
+Munich,                                                           iii  134
+
+_Littleton's Tenures, Lettou_, &c. folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  333
+
+LIVIUS, MS. XVth century--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  298
+
+---- 1469, folio,--in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  122
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  142
+
+---- 1470, _V. de Spira_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  122
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same Library,                         ii  122
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,             iii  397
+
+---- 1472, _S. and Pann_., folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  123
+
+_Lombardi Petri Sentent. (Eggesteyn)_, folio, in
+the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+_Lucanus_, 1469, folio--in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  142
+
+---- 1475, folio, cum comment. Omniboni--in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   24
+
+_Luciani Opera_, Gr. 1496, folio--fine copy, in
+the possession of M. Renouard, at Paris,                           ii  230
+
+---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, folio--large paper copy,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  151
+
+---- ---- _Opusc. Quaed. Lat_. 1494--4to.--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                        iii  311
+
+_Lucretius_, 1486, folio--in the King's Private
+Collection at Stuttgart,                                          iii   39
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1515, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, (supposed
+to be unique) in the Royal Library at Paris,                       ii  146
+
+_Luctus Christianorum, Jenson_, 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  324
+
+_Ludolphus Vita Christi (Eggesteyn)_, 1474, folio,
+in the Public Library at Nancy,                                    ii  363
+
+---- ---- _De Terra Sancta_, &c. 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  317
+
+
+M.
+
+_Mabrian_, 1625, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal
+at Paris,                                                          ii  163
+
+_Maguelone, La Belle_, 1492, _Trepperel_, 4to.--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  328
+
+_Maius, de propriet. prisc. verb_. 1477. folio--_B. de
+Colonia_--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  407
+
+_Mammotrectus, Schoeffher_, 1470--folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  317
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg,                       iii  398
+
+---- ---- _H. de Helie_, 1470, folio--in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  181
+
+MANDEVILLE, MS. _German_--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   32
+
+_Manilius_, 1474, folio,--in the King's Private
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   39
+
+_Marco Polo, Germ_. 1477, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  329
+
+_Marsilius Ficinus: In Dionysium Areopagitam_, no
+Date, folio, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris,            ii  176
+
+_Martialis_, 1475, folio--in the Library of a Capuchin
+Monastery, near Vienna,                                           iii  403
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1502, 8vo. two copies UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  146
+
+MAYNI IASONIS EPITALAMION, MS. 4to.--in the Emperor's
+Private Library at Vienna,                                        iii  387
+
+_Mayster of Sentence, Caxton_, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+_Meinart, St. Life of, block book_: in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  137
+
+_Melusina, Historie von der, Germ_. no date, folio,
+in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                       iii   41
+
+_Melusine, P. Le Noir_, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal        ii  167
+
+_Memoirs of the Transactions of the Society of Belles Lettres
+&c. at Rouen_, vol. i. page 49, of a _similar_ Society
+at Caen,                                                            i  185
+
+_Messer Nobile Socio, Miserie de li Amante di_, 1533,
+4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                       ii  159
+
+_Meurin Fils d'Oger, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  167
+
+_Milles et Amys, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  131
+
+---- ---- _Rouen_, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal
+at ditto,                                                          ii  162
+
+_Mirabilia Urbis Romae, block book_,--in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  137
+
+MISSALE, MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   30
+
+---- ---- XVth century, two in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   31
+
+---- ---- of Charles the Bold, XVth century--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna, with fac-simile,                  iii  292
+
+---- ---- XVth century,--in the Public Library at Munich,         iii  129
+
+---- ---- 8vo.--belonging to Sigismund, King of Poland,
+in the Public Library at Landshut,                                iii  180
+
+---- _Herbipolense_ (1479), folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  306
+
+---- ---- _Venet_. 1488, folio,--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna,                    iii  388
+
+---- _Pro. Patav. Eccl. Ritu_, 1494, folio, in the
+Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,                     iii  403
+
+---- _Mozarabicum_, 1500, folio--with the Breviary
+1502, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                      ii  156
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  178
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  305
+
+---- _Parisiense_, 1522, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  156
+
+_Missal of Henry IV_. XVIth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   81
+
+_Missa Defunctorum, Viennae_, 1499, folio, in the Library
+of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,                             iii  403
+
+_Montaigne's Essays_, 1635, folio, large paper, in the
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  212
+
+_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio,--in the Royal
+Library, at Paris,                                                 ii  134
+
+_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  324
+
+_Moreri des Normans; par I.A. Guiat_, MS. in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  209
+
+_Morgant le Geant_, 1650, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  164
+
+_Mori Thomae Opera, edit. Lovan_. 1566, folio, in the
+Library of the Lycee at Bayeux,                                     i  245
+
+_Munsteri Cosmographia_, 1556, folio, copy of, belonging
+to D. de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,                 ii  214
+
+_Mureti Disticha_, Lat. and Fr. _chap book_, at Vire,               i  286
+
+
+N.
+
+_Nanceidos Liber_, 1518, folio; copy of, with ms. notes of
+Bochart, in the Public Library at Caen,                             i  212
+
+---- ---- two copies of, one upon large paper, in the
+Public Library at Nancy,                                           ii  362
+
+---- ---- one, UPON VELLUM, in the possession of Messrs. Payne
+and Foss,                                                          ii  362
+
+_Nef des Folz du Monde_, Verard, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  133
+
+---- ---- Printed by the same, UPON VELLUM, in the
+same library,                                                      ii  133
+
+_Nef des Dames, Arnollet, a Lyon_, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  160
+
+_Niger P., contra perfidos Judaeos_, 1475, folio--in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   41
+
+_Nonius Marcellus_, 1471, folio,--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  318
+
+_Nova Statuta, Machlinia_, in the Royal Library at Paris,          ii  125
+
+_Novelas, por de Maria Zayas_, 1637, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  160
+
+---- _Amorosas_, 1624, 4to. in the same Library,                   ii  160
+
+
+O.
+
+OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., XVth century, in the
+Emperor's private collection at Vienna,                           iii  386
+
+---- ---- MS., XVIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,    iii  129
+
+OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., in the same library,                 iii  130
+
+_Ogier le Danois_, 1525, folio, in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  162
+
+_Ovidii Opera Omnia, Azoguidi_, 1471, wanting two
+leaves, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  141
+
+---- _Fasti, Azoguidi_, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,        iii  312
+
+---- _Opera Omnia, S. and Pannartz_, 1471, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  312
+
+---- _Epistolae et Fasti_, folio, in the same collection,          iii  312
+
+
+P.
+
+_Paris et Vienne, Paris_, no date, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  164
+
+_Pentateuch, Hebr._ 1491, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  111
+
+_Petrarcha Sonetti_, 1470, Prince Eugene's copy in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  325
+
+---- ---- 1473, _Zarotus_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1473, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Comment. Borstii, Bologn_., 1475, folio, two
+copies in the Imperial Library at Vienna, of which one
+belonged to Prince Eugene,                                        iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Bolog._, 1476, folio, (_Azoguidi_[178])
+with the comment of Philelphus, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   25
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  147
+
+---- ---- 1514, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession of
+M. Renouard, bookseller,                                           ii  229
+
+---- ---- 1521, 12mo., in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   41
+
+---- _Sonetti cum Comment. Velutelli_, 1546, 8vo.,                iii   41
+
+---- _Hist. Griseldis, Lat_., 1473, folio,--Prince Eugene's
+copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                           iii  318
+
+_Phalaris Epist_., 1471, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  318
+
+---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio, in the same collection,             iii  319
+
+PHILOSTRATUS, _Lat_., MS., XVth century in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  297
+
+_Pierre de Provence et la belle Maguelonne_, 1490,
+4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                       ii  165
+
+_Pindarus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldi_, 12mo., in the Library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian,                                  iii  237
+
+_Plautus_, 1472, folio, edit. prin. in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  192
+
+---- 1522, _Aldus_, 4to., Grolier's copy, apparently
+_large paper_, in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  148
+
+_Plinius Senior_, 1469, folio, one copy, UPON VELLUM,
+and another upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,             ii  120
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  174
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  312
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  120
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  313
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Library of Closterneuburg
+Monastery,                                                        iii  398
+
+---- ---- _Ital_. 1476, _Jenson_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  121
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection,                      ii  121
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,          iii  313
+
+_Plutarchi Vitae; Parallellae, Ital_., folio, Litt. R.,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  409
+
+---- ---- the same edition in the Monastic Library at
+Closterneuburg,                                                   iii  398
+
+_Plutarchi Opuscula Moralia, Gr_, 1509, _Aldus_,
+UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                        ii  137
+
+_Poetae Graeci Principes, Gr_., 1556, folio, large paper,
+De Thou's copy in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  152
+
+_Pogii Facetiae, Monast. Euseb_., folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  319
+
+---- _Hist. Fiorent._, 1476, folio, UPON VELLUM and paper,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  325
+
+POLYBIUS, _Gr_. MS., sec. XVI., Diane de Poictiers's copy,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   99
+
+_Polybius, Lat., S. and Pannartz_, 1473, folio, in the
+Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                              iii  398
+
+PRAYER BOOK OF CHARLES THE BALD, Ill. MS. 4to, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii   67
+
+_Priscianus_, 1470, _V. de Spira_, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  139
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  319
+
+---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  319
+
+----, _Aldus_, 1527, 8vo., Grolier's copy, upon large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+----, _Printed by V. de Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve,                                         ii  175
+
+PSALTERIUM, MS., IXth century, of Charles the Bald; in
+the Public Library at Paris;                                       ii   66
+
+---- ----, Sti. Ludovici, XIIIth century, in the
+same library,                                                      ii   68
+
+---- ----, XIth century, in the Public Library at Stuttgart       iii   27
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the same Collection,                 iii   28
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the Royal Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   36
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,        iii  125
+
+---- ----, with most splendid illuminations, of the XVIth
+century, in the same library,                                     iii  133
+
+---- ----, St. Austin, XVth century, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   33
+
+---- ---- _Latine_, 1457, _Fust and Schoeffher_, folio,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  104
+
+---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  306
+
+_Psalterium Latine_, 1459, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  105
+
+---- ----, 1490, folio, _Schoeffher_, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  105
+
+---- ----, 1502, folio, _Schoeffher_, in the same library,         --  106
+
+---- ----, UPON VELLUM, _Printed by Schoeffher's Son_,
+1516, folio,                                                       ii  106
+
+---- ----, without date--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,       iii  307
+
+---- ----, _Lips_. 1486, 4to.--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,                                                         iii  181
+
+PTOLEMAEUS, _Lat_. MS. folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,        ii   85
+
+---- ----  MS. folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,         ii   59
+
+---- ----, 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  142
+
+---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  319
+
+---- ----, _Printed by Buckinck_, 1478, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  320
+
+
+Q.
+
+_Quintilianus, I. de Lignam_, 1470, folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  175
+
+---- ----, 1471, _Jenson_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                                       iii  431
+
+
+R.
+
+_Ratdolt_, specimens of the types from his press, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  144
+
+_Recueil des Histoires de Troye, printed by Caxton_,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  102
+
+---- ---- _printed by Verard_, UPON VELLUM,
+in the same Library,                                               ii  102
+
+_Regnars, les, &c. Verard_, 4to. Prince Eugene's copy
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  329
+
+_Regulae, Confitend. peccata sua. Ital_., 1473, 4to., in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  326
+
+_Repertorium Statut. Ord. Carth_. 1510, folio, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  202
+
+_Richard sans Peur, Janot, no date_, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  158
+
+---- _Bonfons, no date_, 4to., in the same library,                ii  158
+
+_Robert le Diable, Janot, no date_, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  158
+
+_Romances, MS_., in the Royal Library at Paris,                    ii   88
+
+---- ----, _printed_, in the same Library,                         ii  131
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                    ii  407
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich,                       iii  126
+
+_Ronsard_, 1584, folio, in the Public Library at
+Caen,                                                               i  212
+
+ROSE, ROMAN DE LA, MS. XIVth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   95
+
+---- ---- MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   31
+
+---- ---- _Verard_, no date, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                 ii   131
+
+_Rossei opus elegans, &c., Pynson_, 1523, 4to.,
+the author's copy, afterwards that of Sir Thomas More,
+in the Public Library at Landshut,                                iii  183
+
+
+S.
+
+SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA _Pap. Greg_., MS., VIth
+century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                       iii  290
+
+_Sanchez de Matrim. Sacram_., copy in the chapter
+Library at Bayeux, i. 244, in the Library of the Lycee
+at Bayeux,                                                          i  245
+
+_Sannazarii Arcadia_, 1514, _Aldus_, 8vo., Grolier's
+copy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii  148
+
+_Sannazarius de partu Virginis, Aldi_, 1527, 12mo. in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   41
+
+SCHAKZABEL, DER, MS. 1400 or 1450, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   32
+
+_Seguin, Histore Militaire des Bocains_, quoted,
+i 300, 301, 302, _sur l'histoire de l'industrie du
+Bocage, en general, et de la ville de Vire sa capitale
+en particuliere_, 1810, 8vo.,                                       i  303
+
+_Servius in Virgilium_, see _Virgilius_.
+
+_Sforziada La_, 1480, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  134
+
+_Shyppe of Fools_, 1509, 8vo. _printed by W.
+Worde_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                ii  103
+
+_SIBILAE, &c_., MS., xvth century, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  127
+
+_Silius Italicus, Laver_, 1471, folio, in the
+Mazarine Library at Paris,                                         ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  313
+
+---- ---- _S. and Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  313
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+_Spec. Hum, Salv_, 1476, folio, _printed by Richel_,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  407
+
+_Spec. Morale P. Bellovacensis_, 1476, folio,                      ii  405
+
+---- _Judiciale Durandus_, Printed by Hussner and
+Rekenhub, 1473, folio,                                             ii  405
+
+_Speculum Stultorum_, _no date_, 4to., in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  211
+
+_Statius in usum Delphini_, 4to., two copies, in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  156
+
+---- ---- beautiful copy in the Library of Chremsminster
+monastery,                                                        iii  222
+
+_Statutes of Richard III. Machlinia_, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  124
+
+---- ---- in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,             iii   41
+
+_Stephani, H. Gloss. Graec_. 1573, &c., folio--_cum notis
+mss: Bocharti_, copy of, in the Public Library at Caen,             i  211
+
+_Successos y Prodigos de Amor_, 1626, 4to., in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  161
+
+_Suetonius I. de Lignamine_, 1470, folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                       ii  175
+
+_Suetonius S. and Pannartz_, 1470, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  313
+
+---- _Jenson_, 1471, 4to.,--in the same collection,               iii  313
+
+---- _Reisinger_, 4to.,--_without date_, in the
+private royal collection at Stuttgart,                            iii   39
+
+_Suidas, Gr_., 1499, folio--Lambecius's copy, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  314
+
+---- 1503, folio, _Aldus_--large paper copy, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  151
+
+_Sypperts de Vinevaulx, Paris, no date_, 4to.--in
+the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                               ii  159
+
+
+T.
+
+_Tacitus, I. de Spira_, folio, edit. prin. in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   24
+
+----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                          iii  314
+
+_Tasso, Gerusalemme Conquistata_, the author's
+autograph--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  300
+
+_Terentius, Mentelin_, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  314
+
+----, _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,           ii  136
+
+----, _Reisinger_, folio--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   23
+
+_Testamentum Novum, Hollandice et Russ_., 1717, folio,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  110
+
+---- ----, _Bohemice, Sec_. xv--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  307
+
+---- ----, _Graece Erasmi_, in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   39
+
+---- ----, _R. Stephani_, 1550, folio--Diane de Poictiers's
+copy--in the Royal Library at Paris,                               ii  150
+
+_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                       ii  179
+
+---- ----, two copies of, in the Public Library at Munich,        iii  147
+
+_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio, UPON VELLUM, two copies
+of, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                            iii  329
+
+---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,        iii  238
+
+_Theophrastus_, 1497, Gr. _Aldus_,--Diane de
+Poictiers's copy, in the possession of M. Renouard at Paris,       ii  231
+
+_Thucydide, Gourmont_, folio, _Verard_--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna--Prince Eugene's copy,          iii  330
+
+TITE LIVE, MS. folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii   86
+
+_Tityrell and Pfartzival_, 1477, folio--in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,         iii  236
+
+TOURNAMENTS, BOOK OF, MS. xvth century--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   95
+
+---- ---- duplicate and more recent copy of                        ii   99
+
+_Tracts_, Printed by Pfister, at Bamberg, folio,                   ii  111
+
+_Trebisond, Paris_, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  167
+
+TRISTAN, MS. xivth century, in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii   91
+
+---- ----, another MS. in the same library,                        ii   91
+
+---- ----, a third MS. in the same library,                        ii   92
+
+---- _Gall_. Sec. XIII., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  299
+
+---- ----, another MS. in the same Collection,                    iii  300
+
+_Tristran, Verard_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  330
+
+_Trithemii Annales Hirsaugienses_, 1690, folio--in
+the Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster,                    iii  227
+
+---- ----, in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery,
+near Vienna,                                                      iii  403
+
+_Troys filz de Roys_, Paris, no date, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal,                                            ii  164
+
+_Tully of Old Age, Caxton_--in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii  124
+
+_Turrecremata I. de Meditationes, Ulric Han_, 1467,
+folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                         iii  320
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  430
+
+---- ----, 1473, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,               iii  307
+
+
+V.
+
+VALERIUS MAXIMUS, MS. xvth century--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  298
+
+---- ---- _Mentelin_, folio--two copies in the
+Public Library at Strasbourg,                                      ii  408
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- ---- in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                      iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1475, _Coes & Stol_, folio--in
+the Public Library at Caen,                                         i  208
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1534, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+_Valturius De Re Militari_, 1472, folio--in the
+Imperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                iii  321
+
+_Vaudevires, Basselin_, 1811,                                       i  212
+                                                                      -289
+
+_Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, at Caen,                              i  208
+
+_Virgilius, S. & Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  116
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg--incomplete,         ii  408
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- 1470, _V. de Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  117
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Royal Library  at Paris,              ii  117
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- 1471, _S. and Pannartz_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                 iii  118
+
+_Virgilius_, 1471, _S. and Pannartz_, late
+in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                               iii   23
+
+---- ---- 1471, _V. de Spira_, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  315
+
+---- ---- 1471, _Adam_, folio--late in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   23
+
+---- _Servius in Virgilium_. _Ulric Han_,
+folio--Diane de Poictiers's copy, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  191
+
+---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio--in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,                                  ii  408
+
+---- ---- 1478, _Gering_, 4to., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  119
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  146
+
+---- ---- 1505, 8vo.--in the possession of M. Renouard,
+bookseller,                                                        ii  230
+
+---- _S. and Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve,                                                 ii  174
+
+---- _Gallice_, 1582, folio--in the Public Library at
+Caen,                                                               i  212
+
+VITAE SANCTORUM, MS. Sec. XII.--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   29
+
+_Vitruvius Giuntae_, 1513, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in
+the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris,                            ii  178
+
+Vocabularius, Bechtermuntze, 1467, 4to.                            ii  115
+
+
+U.
+
+_Utino, T. de, Sermones_, _printed by Gering_--in
+the Public Library at Vire,                                         i  297
+
+
+W.
+
+WILLIBROODI STI. VITA. AUCT. ALCUINO. MS. xith
+century, in the Private Royal Library at Stuttgart,               iii   38
+
+
+[178] In the page referred to, I have conjectured it to be printed by
+Ulric Han-or Reisinger. To these names I add the above.
+
+
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE
+Shakspeare Press.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY ***
+
+***** This file should be named 16224.txt or 16224.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
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